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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 20:09:29 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 20:09:29 -0700 |
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diff --git a/38078-h/38078-h.htm b/38078-h/38078-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5ff3746 --- /dev/null +++ b/38078-h/38078-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,10464 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Siam, by George B. Bacon + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + } + h1,h2,h3 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; + } /* page numbers */ + + .center {text-align: center;} + .right {text-align: right;} + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + + .caption {font-weight: bold;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + .footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + .fnanchor {vertical-align: super; font-size: .8em; text-decoration: none;} + + .poem {margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; text-align: left;} + .poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + .poem span.i0 {display: block; margin-left: 0em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem span.i16 {display: block; margin-left: 16em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem span.i6 {display: block; margin-left: 6em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem span.i8 {display: block; margin-left: 8em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Siam, by George B. Bacon + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Siam + The Land of the White Elephant as it Was and Is + +Author: George B. Bacon + +Editor: Frederick Wells Williams + +Release Date: November 27, 2011 [EBook #38078] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SIAM *** + + + + +Produced by Hunter Monroe, Juliet Sutherland and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus0" id="illus0"></a><img src="images/frontis.jpg" width="320" height="535" alt="GREAT PAGODA WAT CHANG." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GREAT PAGODA WAT CHANG.</span> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + + + +<h3><i>ILLUSTRATED LIBRARY OF TRAVEL</i></h3> + +<h1>SIAM</h1> + +<h2>THE LAND OF THE WHITE ELEPHANT</h2> + +<h2><i>AS IT WAS AND IS</i></h2> + +<p class="center">COMPILED AND ARRANGED BY</p> + +<h2>GEORGE B. BACON</h2> + +<p class="center">REVISED BY</p> + +<h3>FREDERICK WELLS WILLIAMS</h3> + +<h3>NEW YORK</h3> +<h3>CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS</h3> +<h3>1893</h3> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Copyright</span>, 1881, 1892, <span class="smcap">by</span></p> + +<p class="center">CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS</p> + +<p class="center">TROW DIRECTORY</p> +<p class="center">PRINTING AND BOOKBINDING COMPANY</p> +<p class="center">NEW YORK</p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h3>REVISER'S NOTE</h3> + + +<p>The present editor's aim in revising this little volume +has been to leave untouched, so far as possible, +Mr. Bacon's compilation, omitting only such portions +as were inaccurate or obsolete, and adding rather +sparingly from the narratives of a few recent travellers. +The authoritative history and description of +Siam has yet to be written, and until this work appears +the accounts of Pallegoix, of Bowring, and of +Mouhot convey as satisfactory and accurate impressions +of the country as those of later writers. Though +the wonderful ruins at Angkor are now technically +within the confines of Siam, their consideration still +belongs to a treatise on Cambodia, and this as a separate +country could not fairly be joined to Siam in +carrying out the plan of the series. In other respects, +without attempting to be exhaustive, the reviser's +endeavor has been to neglect no important +part or feature of the kingdom.</p> + +<p>The regeneration effected in Siam during the past +half century presents a suggestive contrast to that +ebullition of new life which has within an even briefer +period transformed despotic Japan into a free and +ambitious state. Here, as there, the stranger is impressed +with those outward symbols of nineteenth-century +life, the agencies of steam, gas, and electricity +that appear in many busy centres in whimsical +incongruity to their Oriental setting; but these are +the adjuncts rather than the essentials of that Western +civilization which both countries are striving to +imitate. In Siam, it must be confessed, there is no +such evidence of popular awakening as now directs +the world's attention to the Mikado's empire. The +languor and content of life in the tropics disposes the +people to seek new ideals and accept new institutions +less eagerly than under Northern skies. Siam's policy +of gradual progress toward a condition of higher enlightenment +is in admirable accordance with her +needs, and promises to achieve its purpose with no +such risks of reaction or shipwreck as beset the course +of more ambitious states in the East.</p> + + +<p class="right">F. W. W.</p> + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="toc"> +<tr><td colspan="2"><h3><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h3></td></tr> + +<tr><td></td><td align="right"><span class="smcap">Page</span></td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><br />CHAPTER I.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">Early Intercourse with Siam—Relations with +Other Countries</a></span></td><td align="right">1</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><br />CHAPTER II.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">Geography of Siam</a></span></td><td align="right">10</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><br />CHAPTER III.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">Old Siam—Its History</a></span></td><td align="right">17</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><br />CHAPTER IV.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">The Stories of Two Adventurers</a><br /></span></td><td align="right">36</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><br />CHAPTER V.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">Modern Siam</a><br /></span></td><td align="right">65</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><br />CHAPTER VI.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">First Impressions</a><br /></span></td><td align="right">73</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><br />CHAPTER VII.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">A Royal Gentleman</a><br /></span></td><td align="right">86</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><br />CHAPTER VIII.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">Phrabat Somdetch Phra Paramendr Maha Mongkut</a><br /></span></td><td align="right">104</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><br />CHAPTER IX.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">Ayuthia</a><br /></span></td><td align="right">121</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><br />CHAPTER X.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">Phrabat and Patawi</a><br /></span></td><td align="right">130</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><br />CHAPTER XI.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">From Bangkok to Chantaboun—A Missionary Journey +in 1835</a><br /></span></td><td align="right">146</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><br />CHAPTER XII.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">Chantaboun and the Gulf</a><br /></span></td><td align="right">170</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><br />CHAPTER XIII.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">Mouhot in the Hill-country of Chantaboun</a><br /></span></td><td align="right">183</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><br />CHAPTER XIV.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">Pechaburi or P'ripp'ree</a><br /></span></td><td align="right">200</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><br />CHAPTER XV.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">The Tribes of Northern Siam</a><br /></span></td><td align="right">216</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><br />CHAPTER XVI.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">Siamese Life and Customs</a><br /></span></td><td align="right">234</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><br />CHAPTER XVII.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">Natural Productions of Siam</a><br /></span></td><td align="right">258</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><br />CHAPTER XVIII.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">Christian Missions in Siam—The Outlook for The +Future</a><br /></span></td><td align="right">270</td></tr> +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><br />CHAPTER XIX.</td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">Bangkok and the New Siam</a><br /></span></td><td align="right">277</td></tr> +<tr><td><hr style="width: 65%;" /></td></tr> +</table> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="illustrations"> + +<tr><td colspan="2" align="center"><h3>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h3></td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus0"><span class="smcap">Great Pagoda Wat Chang,</span></a></td><td align="right"><i>Frontispiece</i></td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus1"><span class="smcap">Inundation of the Meinam,</span></a></td><td align="right">11</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus2"><span class="smcap">Pagoda at Ayuthia,</span></a></td><td align="right">21</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus3"><span class="smcap">View Taken from the Canal at Ayuthia,</span></a></td><td align="right">31</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus4"><span class="smcap">Ruins of a Pagoda at Ayuthia,</span></a></td><td align="right">38</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus5"><span class="smcap">General View of Bangkok,</span></a></td><td align="right">76</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus6"><span class="smcap">The Late First King and Queen,</span></a></td><td align="right">105</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus7"><span class="smcap">One of the Sons of the Late First King,</span></a></td><td align="right">109</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus8"><span class="smcap">A Few of the Children of the Late First King,</span></a></td><td align="right">120</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus9"><span class="smcap">Removal of the Tuft of a Young Siamese,</span></a></td><td align="right">122</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus10"><span class="smcap">Elephants in an Enclosure or Park at Ayuthia,</span></a></td><td align="right">127</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus11"><span class="smcap">Paknam on the Meinam,</span></a></td><td align="right">129</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus12"><span class="smcap">Pagoda at Mount Phrabat,</span></a></td><td align="right">130</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus13"><span class="smcap">Mountains of Korat from Patawi,</span></a></td><td align="right">141</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus14"><span class="smcap">Port of Chantaboun,</span></a></td><td align="right">149</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus15"><span class="smcap">Monkeys Playing with a Crocodile,</span></a></td><td align="right">180</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus16"><span class="smcap">Siamese Actors,</span></a></td><td align="right">194</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus17"><span class="smcap">Mountains of Pechaburi,</span></a></td><td align="right">200</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus18"><span class="smcap">Siamese Women,</span></a></td><td align="right">234</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus19"><span class="smcap">Siamese Rope-dancer,</span></a></td><td align="right">237</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus20"><span class="smcap">Siamese Ladies at Dinner,</span></a></td><td align="right">242</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus21"><span class="smcap">Building Erected at Funeral of Siamese of High +Rank,</span></a></td><td align="right">251</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus22"><span class="smcap">Hall of Audience, Palace of Bangkok,</span></a></td><td align="right">277</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus23"><span class="smcap">Portico of the Audience Hall at Bangkok,</span></a></td><td align="right">280</td></tr> + +<tr><td><a href="#illus24"><span class="smcap">The Palace of the King of Siam, Bangkok,</span></a></td><td align="right">292</td></tr> + +</table> +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h1>SIAM</h1> + + + +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2> + +<h3>EARLY INTERCOURSE WITH SIAM—RELATIONS WITH +OTHER COUNTRIES</h3> + + +<p>The acquaintance of the Christian world with the +kingdom and people of Siam dates from the +beginning of the sixteenth century, and is due to the +adventurous and enterprising spirit of the Portuguese. +It is difficult for us, in these days when Portugal +occupies a position so inconsiderable, and plays +a part so insignificant, among the peoples of the +earth, to realize what great achievements were +wrought in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries by +the peaceful victories of the early navigators and +discoverers from that country, or by the military +conquests which not seldom followed in the track of +their explorations. It was while Alphonso d'Albuquerque +was occupied with a military expedition in +Malacca, that he seized the occasion to open diplomatic +intercourse with Siam. A lieutenant under +his command, who was fitted for the service by an +experience of captivity during which he had acquired +the Malay language, was selected for the mission. +He was well received by the king, and came +back to his general, bringing royal presents and proposals +to assist in the siege of Malacca. So cordial a +response to the overtures of the Portuguese led to the +more formal establishment of diplomatic and commercial +intercourse. And before the middle of the +sixteenth century a considerable number of Portuguese +had settled, some of them in the neighborhood +of the capital (Ayuthia), and some of them in the +provinces of the peninsula of Malacca, at that time +belonging to the kingdom of Siam. One or two adventurers, +such as De Seixas and De Mello, rose to +positions of great power and dignity under the Siamese +king. And for almost a century the Portuguese +maintained, if not an exclusive, certainly a +pre-eminent, right to the commercial and diplomatic +intercourse which they had inaugurated.</p> + +<p>As in other parts of the East Indies, however, the +Dutch presently began to dispute the supremacy of +their rivals, and, partly by the injudicious and presumptuous +arrogance of the Portuguese themselves, +succeeded in supplanting them. The cool and mercenary +cunning of the greedy Hollanders was more +than a match for the proud temper of the hot-blooded +Dons. And as, in the case of Japan, the story +of Simabara lives in history to witness what shameless +and unscrupulous wickedness commercial rivalry +could lead to; so in Siam there is for fifty years a +story of intrigue and greed, over-reaching itself first +on one side, and then on the other. First, the Portuguese +were crowded out of their exclusive privileges. +And then in turn the Dutch were obliged to +surrender theirs. To-day there are still visible in the +jungle, near the mouth of the Meinam River, the +ruins of the Amsterdam which grew up between the +years 1672 and 1725, under the enterprise of the +Dutch East India Company, protected and fostered +by the Siamese Government. And to-day, also, the +descendants of the Portuguese, easy to be recognized, +notwithstanding the mixture of blood for many generations, +hold insignificant or menial offices about the +capital and court.</p> + +<p>As a result of Portuguese intercourse with Siam, +there came the introduction of the Christian religion +by Jesuit missionaries, who, as in China and Japan, +were quick to follow in the steps of the first explorers. +No hindrance was put in the way of the unmolested +exercise of religious rites by the foreign settlers. +Two churches were built; and the ecclesiastics +in charge of the church at Ayuthia had begun to acquire +some of that political influence which is so irresistible +a temptation to the Roman Catholic missionary, +and so dangerous a possession when he has once +acquired it. It is probable enough (although the +evidence does not distinctly appear) that this tendency +of religious zeal toward political intrigue inflamed +the animosity of the Dutch traders, and afforded +them a convenient occasion for undermining +the supremacy of their rivals. However this may +be, the Christian religion did not make any great +headway among the Siamese people. And while +they conceded to the foreigners religious liberty, they +showed no eagerness to receive from them the gift of +a new religion.</p> + +<p>In the year 1604 the Siamese king sent an ambas<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 4]</a></span>sador +to the Dutch colony at Bantam, in the island +of Java. And in 1608 the same ambassador extended +his journey to Holland, expressing "much surprise +at finding that the Dutch actually possessed a +country of their own, and were not a nation of pirates, +as the Portuguese had always insinuated." The history +of this period of the intercourse between Siam +and the European nations, abundantly proves that +shrewdness, enterprise, and diplomatic skill were not +on one side only.</p> + +<p>Between Siam and France there was no considerable +intercourse until the reign of Louis XIV., when +an embassy of a curiously characteristic sort was sent +out by the French monarch. The embassy was ostentatiously +splendid, and made great profession of a +religious purpose no less important than the conversion +of the Siamese king to Christianity. The origin +of the mission was strangely interesting, and the +record of it, even after the lapse of nearly two hundred +years, is so lively and instructive that it deserves +to be reproduced, in part, in another chapter +of this volume. The enterprise was a failure. The +king refused to be converted, and was able to give +some dignified and substantial reasons for distrusting +the religious interest which his "esteemed friend, +the king of France," had taken "in an affair which +seems to belong to God, and which the Divine Being +appears to have left entirely to our discretion." Commercially +and diplomatically, also, as well as religiously, +the embassy was a failure. The Siamese +prime minister (a Greek by birth, a Roman Catholic +by religion), at whose instigation the French king<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 5]</a></span> +had acted, soon after was deposed from his office, and +came to his death by violence. The Jesuit priests +were put under restraint and detained as hostages, +and the military force which accompanied the mission +met with an inglorious fate. A scheme which +seemed at first to promise the establishment of a +great dominion tributary to the throne of France, +perished in its very conception.</p> + +<p>The Government of Spain had early relations with +Siam, through the Spanish colony in the Philippine +Islands; and on one or more occasions there was an +interchange of courtesies and good offices between +Manilla and Ayuthia. But the Spanish never had a +foothold in the kingdom, and the occasional and unimportant +intercourse referred to ceased almost wholly +until, during the last fifty years, and even the last +twenty, a new era of commercial activity has brought +the nations of Europe and America into close and familiar +relations with the Land of the White Elephant.</p> + +<p>The relations of the kingdom of Siam with its immediate +neighbors have been full of the vicissitudes +of peace and war. There still remains some trace of +a remote period of partial vassalage to the Chinese +Empire, in the custom of sending gifts—which were +originally understood, by the recipients at least, if not +by the givers, to be tribute to Peking. With Burmah +and Pegu on the one side, and with Cambodia +and Cochin China on the other, there has existed from +time immemorial a state of jealous hostility. The +boundaries of Siam, eastward and westward, have +fluctuated with the successes or defeats of the Siam<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 6]</a></span>ese +arms. Southward the deep gulf shuts off the +country from any neighbors, whether good or bad, +and for more than three centuries this has been the +highway of a commerce of unequal importance, sometimes +very active and remunerative, but never wholly +interrupted even in the period of the most complete +reactionary seclusion of the kingdom.</p> + +<p>The new era in Siam may be properly dated from +the year 1854, when the existing treaties between Siam +on the one part, and Great Britain and the United +States on the other part, were successfully negotiated. +But before this time, various influences had been +quietly at work to produce a change of such singular +interest and importance. The change is indeed a +part of that great movement by which the whole +Oriental world has been re-discovered in our day; by +which China has been started on a new course of development +and progress; by which Japan and Corea +have been made to lay aside their policy of hostile +seclusion. It is hard to fix the precise date of a +movement which is the result of tendencies so various +and so numerous, and which is evidently, as yet, +only at the beginning of its history. But the treaty +negotiated by Sir John Bowring, as the ambassador +of Great Britain, and that negotiated by the Honorable +Townsend Harris, as the ambassador of the +United States, served to call public attention in those +two countries to a land which was previously almost +unheard of except by geographical students. There +was no popular narrative of travel and exploration. +Indeed, there had been no travel and exploration +much beyond the walls of Bangkok or the ruins of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 7]</a></span> +Ayuthia. The German, Mandelslohe, is the earliest +traveller who has left a record of what he saw and +heard. His visit to Ayuthia, to which he gave the +name which subsequent travellers have agreed in bestowing +on Bangkok, the present capital—"The Venice +of the East"—was made in 1537. The Portuguese, +Mendez Pinto, whose visit was made in the +course of the same century, has also left a record of +his travels, which is evidently faithful and trustworthy. +We have also the records of various embassies, +and the narratives of missionaries (both the Roman +Catholic and, during the present century, the +American Protestant missionaries), who have found +time, amid their arduous and discouraging labors, to +furnish to the Christian world much valuable information +concerning the people among whom they have +chosen to dwell.</p> + +<p>Of these missionary records, by far the most +complete and the most valuable is the work of +Bishop Pallegoix (published in French in the year +1854), entitled "Description du Royaume Thai ou +Siam." The long residence of the excellent Bishop +in the country of which he wrote, and in which, not +many years afterward (in 1862) he died, sincerely +lamented and honored, fitted him to speak with intelligent +authority; and his book was of especial +value at the time when it was published, because the +Western Powers were engaged that very year in the +successful attempt to renew and to enlarge their +treaties with Siam. To Bishop Pallegoix the English +envoy, Sir John Bowring, is largely indebted, +as he does not fail to confess, for a knowledge of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 8]</a></span> +history, manners, and customs of the realm, which +helped to make the work of his embassy more easy, +and also for much of the material which gives the +work of Bowring himself ("The Kingdom and People +of Siam," London, 1857) its value.</p> + +<p>Since Sir John Bowring's time the interior of +Siam has been largely explored, and especially by +one adventurous traveller, Henry Mouhot, who lost +his life in the jungles of Laos while engaged in his +work of exploration. With him begins our real +knowledge of the interior of Siam, and its partly dependent +neighbors Laos and Cambodia. The scientific +results of his travel are unfortunately not presented +in such orderly completeness as would have +been given to them had Mouhot lived to arrange and +to supplement the details of his fragmentary and outlined +journal. But notwithstanding these necessary +defects, Mouhot's book deserves a high place, as giving +the most adventurous exploration of a country +which appears more interesting the more and better +it is known. The great ruins of Angkor (or Angeor) +Wat, for example, near the boundary which separates +Siam from Cambodia, were by him for the first time +examined, measured, and reported with some approach +to scientific exactness.</p> + +<p>Among more recent and easily accessible works on +the country, from some of which we have borrowed, +may be mentioned, F. Vincent's, "Land of the White +Elephant," 1874, A. Gréhan's, "Royaume de Siam," +fourth edition, Paris, 1878, "Siam and Laos, as seen +by our American Missionaries," Philadelphia, 1884, +Carl Bock's "Temples and Elephants," London, 1884,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 9]</a></span> +A. R. Colquhoun's, "Among the Shans," 1885, L. +de Carné's, "Travels in Indo-China, etc.," 1872, Miss +M. L. Cort's, "Siam, or the Heart of Farther India," +1886, and John Anderson's, "English Intercourse +with Siam," 1890. The most authoritative map of +Siam is that published in the "Proceedings of the +Royal Geographical Society," London, 1888, by Mr. +J. McCarthy, Superintendent of Surveys in Siam.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2> + +<h3>GEOGRAPHY OF SIAM</h3> + + +<p>The following description of the country is quoted +with some emendations from Mr. Carl Bock's +"Temples and Elephants."</p> + +<p>The European name for this land has been derived +from the Malay word <i>Sayam</i> (or <i>sajam</i>) meaning +"brown," but this is a conjecture. The natives call +themselves <i>Thai</i>, <i>i.e.</i>, "free," and their country +<i>Muang Thai</i>, "the kingdom of the free."</p> + +<p>Including its dependencies, the Lao states in the +north, and the Malay states in the south, Siam extends +from latitude 20° 20' N. to exactly 4° S., while, +with its Cambodian provinces, its extreme breadth is +from longitude 97° E. to about 108° E. The northern +frontier of the Lao dependencies has not been +defined, but it may be said, roughly, to lie north of +the twentieth parallel, beyond the great bend of the +Mekong River, the high range to the east of which +separates Siam from Annam. To the south lie Cambodia +and the Gulf of Siam, stretching a long arm +down into the Malay Peninsula. On the west it +abuts on Upper and Lower Burma, both now British +possessions.</p> + +<p>Through Siam and Lao run two great mountain +chains, both radiating from Yunnan through the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 11]</a></span> +Shan states. The eastern chain stretches in a S.S.E. +direction from Kiang Tsen right down to Cambodia, +while the western chain extends in a southerly direction +through the Malay Peninsula. Their height +rises sometimes to 9,000 feet, but it does not often +seem to exceed 5,000; limestone, gneiss, and granite +appear to form the main composition of the rocks.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus1" id="illus1"></a><img src="images/illus001.jpg" width="320" height="209" alt="INUNDATION OF THE MEINAM." title="" /> +<span class="caption">INUNDATION OF THE MEINAM.</span> +</div> + +<p>Between these two mountain-chains, with their +ramifications, lies the great alluvial plain of the +Meinam, a magnificent river, of which the Portuguese +poet Camoens sings (Lusiad X. cxxv.):</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"The Menam now behold, whose waters take<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Their sources in the great Chiamai lake,"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>in which statement, however, the bard was misinformed, +the source being a mountain stream on the +border of the Shan states, but within Lao territory, +and not, as is generally marked on charts, in Yunnan. +Near Rahang the main stream is joined by the Mei +Wang, flowing S.W. from Lakon, the larger river +being called above this junction the Mei Ping. The +other great tributary, the Pak-nam-po, also called +the Meinam Yome, joins it in latitude 15° 45', after +flowing also in a S.W. direction.</p> + +<p>To the annual inundation of the Meinam and its +tributaries the fertility of the soil is due. Even as +far up as in the Lao states the water rises from eight +to ten feet during the rainy season. A failure of +these inundations would be fatal to the rice crop, so +that Siam is almost as much as Egypt a single river +valley, upon whose alluvial deposits the welfare of +millions depends. In this broad valley are to be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 12]</a></span> +found the forty-one political divisions which make up +Siam proper.</p> + +<p>The second great river of importance is the Bang-Pa +Kong, which has its source in a barrier range of +irregular mountains, separating the elevated plateau +of Korat from the alluvial plains extending to the +head of the Gulf of Siam. The river meanders +through the extensive paddy-lands and richly cultivated +districts of the northeast provinces, and falls +into the sea twenty miles east of the Meinam. Another +considerable river is the Meklong, which falls +into the sea about the same distance to the west of +Bangkok; at its mouth is a large and thriving village +of the same name. This is the great rice district, +and from Meklong all up the river to Kanburi +a large number of the population are Chinese. In +this valley are salt-pits, on which the whole kingdom +depends for its supply. The Meklong is connected +with the Meinam by means of a canal, which affords +a short cut to Bangkok, avoiding the sea passage.</p> + +<p>A third river system, that of the Mekong, much +the largest of all the rivers in Indo-China, drains the +extreme north and east of Siam. This huge stream, +which is also mentioned in Camoens' Lusiad, takes +its rise near the sources of the Yangtse Kiang in +Eastern Thibet, and belongs in nearly half its course +to China. It was partly explored by M. Mouhot, +and later (in 1868) by Lagrée's expedition, who found +it, in spite of the great body of water, impracticable +for navigation. M. de Carné, one of the exploration +party, thus sums up the results of the search for a new +trade route into Southern China: "The difficulties<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 13]</a></span> +the river offers begin at first, starting from the Cambodian +frontier, and they are very serious, if not insurmountable. +If it were attempted to use steam on +this part of the Mekong the return would be most +dangerous. At Khong an absolutely impassable barrier, +as things are, stands in the way. Between +Khong and Bassac the waters are unbroken and deep, +but the channel is again obstructed a short distance +from the latter. From the mouth of the river +Ubone the Mekong is nothing more than an impetuous +torrent, whose waters rush along a channel more +than a hundred yards deep by hardly sixty across. +Steamers can never plough the Mekong as they do +the Amazon or the Mississippi, and Saigon can never +be united to the western provinces of China by this +immense waterway, whose waters make it mighty +indeed, but which seems after all to be a work unfinished."</p> + + +<p>Of the tributary states, the Laos, who occupy the +Mekong valley and spread themselves among the +wilds between Tongking, China, and Siam, are probably +the least known. In physique and speech they +are akin to the Siamese, and are regarded by some +writers as being the primitive stock of that race. +They have some claims as a people of historical importance, +constituting an ancient and powerful kingdom +whose capital Vein-shan, was destroyed by +Siam in 1828. Since then they have remained subject +to Siam, being governed partly by native hereditary +princes, duly invested with gold dish, betel-box, +spittoon, and teapot sent from Bangkok, and partly +by officers appointed by the Siamese government.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 14]</a></span> +Their besetting sin is slave-hunting, which was until +recently pursued with the acquiescence of the Siam +authorities, to the terror of the hill-tribes within their +reach and to their own demoralization. Apart from +the passions associated with this infamous trade the +Laos are for the most part an inoffensive, unwarlike +race, fond of music, and living chiefly on a diet of +rice, vegetables, fruits, fish, and poultry. Pure and +mixed, they number altogether perhaps some one +million five hundred thousand.</p> + +<p>The most important of the Malay states is Quedha, +in Siamese Muang Sai. Its population of half a +million Malays is increased by some twenty thousand +Chinese and perhaps five thousand of other +races. The country is level land covered with fine forests, +where elephants, tigers, and rhinoceroses abound. +A high range of mountains separates Quedha from +the provinces of Patani (noted for its production of +rice and tin) and Songkhla. These again are divided +from the province of Kalantan by the Banara River, +and from Tringann by the Batut River. In Ligor +province, called in Siamese Lakhon, three-fourths of +the population are Siamese. The gold and silver-smiths +of Ligor have a considerable reputation for +their vessels of the precious metals inlaid with a +black enamel.</p> + +<p>As to the Cambodian provinces under Siamese +rule the following particulars are extracted from a +paper by M. Victor Berthier:</p> + +<p>The most important provinces are those lying to +the west, Battambang and Korat. The former of +these is situated on the west of the Grand Lake (Tonle<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 15]</a></span> +Sap), and supports a population of about seventy +thousand, producing salt, fish, rice, wax, and cardamoms, +besides animals found in the forests. Two +days' march from Battambang is the village of Angkor +Borey (the royal town), the great centre of the +beeswax industry, of which 24,000 pounds are sent +yearly to Siam. Thirty miles from this place is +situated the auriferous country of Tu'k Cho, where +two Chinese companies have bought the monopoly of +the mines. The metal is obtained by washing the +sand extracted from wells about twenty feet deep, +at which depth auriferous quartz is usually met, but +working as they do the miners have no means of +getting ore from the hard stone.</p> + +<p>Korat is the largest province and is peopled almost +entirely by Cambodians. Besides its chief town of +the same name it contains a great number of villages +with more than eleven district centres, and contains +a population estimated at fifty thousand or sixty +thousand. Angkor, the most noted of the Cambodian +provinces, is now of little importance, being +thinly populated and chiefly renowned for the splendor +of its ancient capital, whose remarkable ruins are +the silent witnesses of a glorious past. The present +capital is Siem Rap, a few miles south of which is +the hill called Phnom Krom (Inferior Mount), which +becomes an island during the annual inundation. +The other Cambodian provinces now ruled by Siam +are almost totally unknown by Europeans.</p> + +<p>The population of Siam has never been officially +counted, but is approximately estimated by Europeans +at from six to twelve millions. According to Mr.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 16]</a></span> +Archibald Colquhoun, however, this is based upon an +entirely erroneous calculation. "Prince Prisdang assured +me," he says,<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> "that Sir John Bowring had +made a great mistake in taking the list of those who +were liable to be called out for military service as the +gross population of the kingdom; and that if that list +were multiplied by five, it would give a nearer approximation +to the population. M. Mouhot says that +a few years before 1862 the native registers showed +for the male sex (those who were inscribed), 2,000,000 +Siamese, 1,000,000 Laotians (or Shans), 1,000,000 +Malays, 1,500,000 Chinese, 350,000 Cambodians, +50,000 Peguans, and a like number composed of various +tribes inhabiting the mountain-ranges. Taking +these statistics and multiplying them by five, which +Bishop Pallegoix allows is a fair way of computing +from them, we should have a population of 29,950,000. +To this would have to be added the Chinese and +Peguans who had not been born in the country, and +were therefore not among the inscribed; also the hill +tribes that were merely tributary and therefore merely +paid by the village, as well as about one-seventh of +the above total for the ruling classes, their families and +slaves. This total would give at least 35,000,000 inhabitants +for Siam Proper, to which would have to be +added about 3,000,000 for its dependencies, Zimmé +(Cheung Mai), Luang Prabang, and Kiang Tsen,—a +gross population, therefore, of about 38,000,000 for +the year 1860." On the other hand, Mr. McCarthy, +a competent judge, considers the government estimate +of ten million too high.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> Amongst the Shans. London, 1885.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 17]</a></span></p></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2> + +<h3>OLD SIAM—ITS HISTORY</h3> + + +<p>The date at which any coherent and trustworthy +history of Siam must commence is the founding +of the sacred city of Ayuthia (the former capital +of the kingdom), in the year 1350 of the Christian +era. Tradition, more or less obscure and fabulous, +does indeed reach back into the remote past so far as +the fifth century, B.C. According to the carefully +arranged chronology of Bishop Pallegoix, gathered +from the Siamese annals, which annals, however, are +declared by His Majesty the late King to be "all full +of fable, and are not in satisfaction for believe," the +origin of the nation can be traced back, if not into +indefinite space of time, at least into the vague and +uncertain "woods," and ran on this wise:</p> + +<p>"There were two Brahminical recluses dwelling in +the woods, named Sătxănalăi and Sîtthĭongkŏn, +coeval with Plua Khôdŏm (the Buddha), and one +hundred and fifty years of age, who having called +their numerous posterity together, counselled them +to build a city having seven walls, and then departed +to the woods to pass their lives as hermits.</p> + +<p>"But their posterity, under the leadership of +Bathămăràt, erected the city Săvănthe vălôk, or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 18]</a></span> +Sangkhălôk, about the year 300 of the era of Phra +Khôdŏm (B.C. about 243).</p> + +<p>"Bathămăràt founded three other cities, over +which he placed his three sons. The first he appointed +ruler in the city of Hărĭpunxăi, the second +in Kamphôxă năkhon, the third in Phětxăbun. +These four sovereignties enjoyed, for five hundred +years or more, the uttermost peace and harmony +under the rule of the monarchs of this dynasty."</p> + +<p>The places named in this chronicle are all in the +valley of the upper Meinam, in the "north country," +and the fact of most historical value which the +chronicle indicates is that the Siamese came from +the north and from the west, bringing with them the +government and the religion which they still possess. +The most conspicuous personage in these ancient +annals is one Phra Ruàng, "whose advent and +glorious reign had been announced by a communication +from Gaudama himself, and who possessed, in +consequence of his merits, a white elephant with +black tusks;" he introduced the Thai alphabet, +ordained a new era which is still in vogue, married +the daughter of the emperor of China, and consolidated +the petty princedoms of the north country into +one sovereignty. His birth was fabulous and his +departure from the world mysterious. He is the +mythic author of the Siamese History. Born of a +queen of the Nakhae (a fabulous race dwelling under +the earth), who came in the way of his father, the +King of Hărĭpunxăi, one day when the king had +"retired to a mountain for the purpose of meditation, +he was discovered accidentally by a huntsman,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 19]</a></span> +and was recognized by the royal ring which his +father had given to the lady from the underworld. +When he had grown up he entered the court of his +father, and the palace trembled. He was acknowledged +as the heir, and his great career proceeded +with uninterrupted glory. At last he went one day +to the river and disappeared." It was thought he +had rejoined his mother, the Queen of the Nakhae, +and would pass the remainder of his life in the +realms beneath. The date of Phra Ruàng's reign is +given as the middle of the fifth century of the +Christian era.</p> + +<p>After him there came successive dynasties of +kings, ending with Phăja Uthong, who reigned seven +years in Northern Cambodia, but being driven from +his kingdom by a severe pestilence, or having voluntarily +abandoned it (as another account asserts), in +consequence of explorations which had discovered +"the southern country," and found it extremely fertile +and abundant in fish, he emigrated with his people +and arrived at a certain island in the Meinam, +where he "founded a new city, Krŭng thèph măhá +năkhon Síajŭthăja—a great town impregnable against +angels: Siamese era 711, <span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 1349."</p> + +<p>Here, at last, we touch firm historic ground, although +there is still in the annals a sufficient admixture +of what the late king happily designates as +"fable." The foundations of Ayuthia, the new +city, were laid with extraordinary care. The soothsayers +were consulted, and decided that "in the 712th +year of the Siamese era, on the sixth day of the waning +moon, the fifth month, at ten minutes before<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 20]</a></span> +four o'clock, the foundation should be laid. Three +palaces were erected in honor of the king; and vast +countries, among which were Malacca, Tennasserim, +Java, and many others whose position cannot now +be defined, were claimed as tributary states." King +Uthong assumed the title Phra-Rama-thi-bodi, and +after a reign of about twenty years in his new capital +handed down to his son and to a long line of successors, +a large, opulent, and consolidated realm. +The word Phra, which appears in his title and in +that of almost all his successors to the present day, +is said by Sir John Bowring to be "probably either +derived from or of common origin with the Pharaoh +of antiquity." But the resemblance between the +words is simply accidental, and the connection which +he seeks to establish is not for a moment to be admitted.</p> + +<p>His Majesty the late King of Siam, a man of remarkable +character and history, was probably, while +he lived, the best-informed authority on all matters +relating to the history of his kingdom. Fortunately, +being a man of scholarly habits and literary tastes, +he has left on record a concise and readable historical +sketch, from which we cannot do better than to +make large quotations, supplementing it when necessary +with details gathered from other sources. The +narrative begins with the foundation of the royal +city, Ayuthia, of which an account has already been +given on a previous page. The method of writing +the proper names is that adopted by the king himself, +who was exact, even to a pedantic extent, in regard +to such matters. The king's English, however,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 21]</a></span> +which was often droll and sometimes unintelligible, +has in this instance been corrected by the missionary +under whose auspices the sketch was first published.<a name="FNanchor_A_2" id="FNanchor_A_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_2" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus2" id="illus2"></a><img src="images/illus002.jpg" width="320" height="201" alt="PAGODA AT AYUTHIA" title="" /> +<span class="caption">PAGODA AT AYUTHIA</span> +</div> + +<p>"Ayuthia when founded was gradually improved +and became more and more populous by natural increase, +and the settlement there of families of Laos, +Kambujans, Peguans, people from Yunnán in China, +who had been brought there as captives, and by Chinese +and Mussulmans from India, who came for the +purposes of trade. Here reigned fifteen kings of one +dynasty, successors of and belonging to the family of +U-T'ong Rámá-thi-bodi, who, after his death, was +honorably designated as Phra Chetha Bida—i.e., +'Royal Elder Brother Father.' This line was interrupted +by one interloping usurper between the thirteenth +and fourteenth. The last king was Mahíntrá-thi-ràt. +During his reign the renowned king of +Pegu, named Chamna-dischop, gathered an immense +army, consisting of Peguans, Birmese, and inhabitants +of northern Siam, and made an attack upon +Ayuthia. The ruler of northern Siam was Mahá-thamma +rájá related to the fourteenth king as son-in-law, +and to the last as brother-in-law.</p> + +<p>"After a siege of three months the Peguans took +Ayuthia, but did not destroy it or its inhabitants, +the Peguan monarch contenting himself with capturing +the king and royal family, to take with him as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 22]</a></span> +trophies to Pegu, and delivered the country over to +be governed by Mahá-thamma rájá, as a dependency. +The king of Pegu also took back with him the oldest +son of Mahá-thamma rájá as a hostage; his name +was Phra Náret. This conquest of Ayuthia by the +king of Pegu took place <span class="smcap">A. D.</span> 1556.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_2" id="Footnote_A_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_2"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> No attempt at uniformity in this respect has been made by +the editor of this volume; but, in passages quoted from different +authors, the proper names are written and accented according to +the various methods of those authors.</p></div> + +<p>"This state of dependence and tribute continued +but a few years. The king of Pegu died, and in the +confusion incident to the elevation of his son as successor +Prince Náret escaped with his family, and, +attended by many Peguans of influence, commenced +his return to his native land. The new king on +hearing of his escape despatched an army to seize +and bring him back. They followed him till he had +crossed the Si-thong (Birman Sit-thaung) River, +where he turned against the Peguan army, shot the +commander, who fell from his elephant dead, and +then proceeded in safety to Ayuthia.</p> + +<p>"War with Pegu followed, and Siam again became +independent. On the demise of Mahá-thamma +rájá, Prince Náret succeeded to the throne, and became +one of the mightiest and most renowned rulers +Siam ever had. In his wars with Pegu, he was accompanied +by his younger brother, Eká-tassa-rot, +who succeeded Náret on the throne, but on account +of mental derangement was soon removed, and Phra-Siri +Sin Ni-montham was called by the nobles from +the priesthood to the throne."</p> + +<p>With the accession of this last-mentioned sovereign +begins a new dynasty. But before reproducing the +chronicles of it we may add a few words concerning +that which preceded.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 23]</a></span></p> + +<p>This dynasty had lasted from the founding of Ayuthia, +<span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 1350, until <span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 1602, a period of two +hundred years. Its record shows, on the whole, a +remarkable regularity of succession, with perhaps no +more intrigues, illegitimacies, murders, and assassinations +than are to be found in the records of Christian +dynasties. Temples and palaces were built, and +among other works a gold image of Buddha is said +to have been cast (in the city of Pichai, in the year +<span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 1380), "which weighed fifty-three thousand +catties, or one hundred and forty-one thousand +pounds, which would represent the almost incredible +value (at seventy shillings per ounce) of nearly six +millions sterling. The gold for the garments weighed +two hundred and eighty-six catties." Another great +image of Buddha, in a sitting posture, was cast from +gold, silver, and copper, the height of which was +fifty cubits.</p> + +<p>One curious tradition is on record, the date of +which is at the beginning of the fifteenth century. +On the death of King Intharaxa, the sixth of the dynasty, +his two eldest sons, who were rulers of smaller +provinces, hastened, each one from his home, to seize +their father's vacant throne. Mounted on elephants +they hastened to Ayuthia, and by strange chance arrived +at the same moment at a bridge, crossing in +opposite directions. The princes were at no loss to +understand the motive each of his brother's journey. +A contest ensued upon the bridge—a contest so furious +and desperate that both fell, killed by each +other's hands. One result of this tragedy was to +make easy the way of the youngest and surviving<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 24]</a></span> +brother, who, coming by an undisputed title to the +throne, reigned long and prosperously.</p> + +<p>During some of the wars between Pegu and Siam, +the hostile kings availed themselves of the services +of Portuguese, who had begun, by the middle of the +sixteenth century, to settle in considerable numbers +in both kingdoms. And there are still extant the +narratives of several historians, who describe with +characteristic pomposity and extravagance, the magnificence +of the military operations in which they +bore a part. One of these wars seems to have originated +in the jealousy of the king of Pegu, who had +learned, to his great disgust, that his neighbor of +Siam was the fortunate possessor of no less than +seven white elephants, and was prospering mightily +in consequence. Accordingly he sent an embassy +of five hundred persons to request that two of the +seven sacred beasts might be transferred as a mark +of honor to himself. After some diplomacy the +Siamese king declined—not that he loved his neighbor +of Pegu less, but that he loved the elephants +more, and that the Peguans were (as they had themselves +acknowledged) uninstructed in the management +of white elephants, and had on a former occasion +almost been the death of two of the animals of +which they had been the owners, and had been +obliged to send them to Siam to save their lives. +The king of Pegu, however, was so far from regarding +this excuse as satisfactory that he waged furious +and victorious war, and carried off not two but four +of the white elephants which had been the <i>casus +belli</i>. It seems to have been in a campaign about<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 25]</a></span> +this time that, when the king of Siam was disabled +by the ignominious flight of the war elephant on +which he was mounted, his queen, "clad in the royal +robes, with manly spirit fights in her husband's +stead, until she expires on her elephant from the +loss of an arm."</p> + +<p>It is related of the illustrious Phra Náret, of +whom the royal author, in the passage quoted on a +previous page, speaks with so much admiration, that +being greatly offended by the perfidious conduct of +his neighbor, the king of Cambodia, he bound himself +by an oath to wash his feet in the blood of that +monarch. "So, immediately on finding himself +freed from other enemies, he assailed Cambodia, and +besieged the royal city of Lăvĭk, having captured +which, he ordered the king to be slain, and his blood +having been collected in a golden ewer he washed his +feet therein, in the presence of his courtiers, amid +the clang of trumpets."</p> + +<p>The founder of the second dynasty is famous in +Siamese history as the king in whose reign was discovered +and consecrated the celebrated footstep of +Buddha, Phra Bàt, at the base of a famous mountain +to the eastward of Ayuthia. Concerning him the +late king, in his historical sketch, remarks:</p> + +<p>"He had been very popular as a learned and religious +teacher, and commanded the respect of all the +public counsellors; but he was not of the royal family. +His coronation took place <span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 1602. There +had preceded him a race of nineteen kings, excepting +one usurper. The new king submitted all authority +in government to a descendant of the former line of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 26]</a></span> +kings, and to him also he intrusted his sons for education, +reposing confidence in him as capable of +maintaining the royal authority over all the tributary +provinces. This officer thus became possessed of the +highest dignity and power. His master had been +raised to the throne at an advanced age. During +the twenty-six years he was on the throne he had +three sons, born under the royal canopy—<i>i.e.</i>, the +great white umbrella, one of the insignia of royalty.</p> + +<p>"After the demise of the king, at an extreme old +age, the personage whom he had appointed as regent, +in full council of the nobles, raised his eldest son, +then sixteen years old, to the throne. A short time +after, the regent caused the second son to be slain, +under the pretext of a rebellion against his elder +brother. Those who were envious of the regent excited +the king to revenge his brother's death as +causeless, and plan the regent's assassination; but +he, being seasonably apprised of it, called a council of +the nobles and dethroned him after one year's reign, +and then raised his youngest brother, the third son, +to the throne.</p> + +<p>"He was only eleven years old. His extreme +youth and fondness for play, rather than politics or +government, soon created discontent. Men of office +saw that it was exposing their country to contempt, +and sought for some one who might fill the place +with dignity. The regent was long accustomed to +all the duties of the government, and had enjoyed +the confidence of their late venerable king; so, with +one voice, the child was dethroned and the regent<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 27]</a></span> +exalted under the title of Phra Chan Pra Sath-thong. +This event occurred <span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 1630," and forms the commencement +of the third dynasty.</p> + +<p>"The king was said to have been connected with +the former dynasty, both paternally and maternally; +but the connection must have been quite remote and +obscure. Under the reign of the priest-king he bore +the title Raja Suriwong, as indicating a remote connection +with the royal family. From him descended +a line of ten kings, who reigned at Ayuthia and +Lopha-buri—Louvô of French writers. This line +was once interrupted by an usurper between the +fourth and fifth reigns. This usurper was the foster-father +of an unacknowledged though real son of +the fourth king, Chau Nárái. During his reign +many European merchants established themselves +and their trade in the country, among whom was +Constantine Phaulkon (Faulkon). He became a +great favorite through his skill in business, his suggestions +and superintendence of public works after +European models, and by his presents of many articles +regarded by the people of those days as great +curiosities, such as telescopes, etc.</p> + +<p>"King Nárái, the most distinguished of all Siamese +rulers, before or since, being highly pleased with +the services of Constantine, conferred on him the +title of Chau Phyá Wicha-yentrá-thé-bodi, under +which title there devolved on him the management +of the government in all the northern provinces of +the country. He suggested to the king the plan of +erecting a fort on European principles as a protection +to the capital. This was so acceptable a proposal,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 28]</a></span> +that at the king's direction he was authorized to +select the location and construct the fort.</p> + +<p>"He selected a territory which was then employed +as garden-ground, but is now the territory of Bangkok. +On the west bank, near the mouth of a canal, +now called Báng-luang, he constructed a fort, which +bears the name of Wichayeiw Fort to this day. It +is close to the residence of his Royal Highness Chau-fà-noi +Kromma Khun Isaret rangsan. This fort and +circumjacent territory was called Thana-buri. A wall +was erected, enclosing a space of about one hundred +yards square. Another fort was built on the east +side of the river, where the walled city of Bangkok +now stands. The ancient name Bángkok was in use +when the whole region was a garden.<a name="FNanchor_A_3" id="FNanchor_A_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_3" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> The above-mentioned +fort was erected about the year <span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 1675.</p> + +<p>"This extraordinary European also induced his +grateful sovereign King Nárái to repair the old city +of Lopha-buri (Louvô), and construct there an extensive +royal palace on the principles of European +architecture. On the north of this palace Constantine +erected an extensive and beautiful collection of +buildings for his own residence. Here also he built +a Romish church. The ruins of these edifices and +their walls are still to be seen, and are said to be +a great curiosity. It is moreover stated that he +planned the construction of canals, with reservoirs at +intervals for bringing water from the mountains on +the northeast to the city Lopha-buri, and conveying<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 29]</a></span> +it through earthen and copper pipes and siphons, so +as to supply the city in the dry season on the same +principle as that adopted in Europe. He commenced +also a canal, with embankments, to the holy place +called Phra-Bat, about twenty-five miles southwest +from the city. He made an artificial pond on the +summit of Phra-Bat Mountain, and thence, by means +of copper tubes and stop-cocks, conveyed abundance +of water to the kitchen and bath-rooms of the +royal residence at the foot of the mountain. His +works were not completed when misfortune overtook +him.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_3" id="Footnote_A_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_3"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> Such names abound now, as Bang-cha, Bang-phra, Bang-pla-soi, +etc.; <i>Bang</i> signifying a small stream or canal, such as is seen +in gardens.</p></div> + +<p>"After the demise of Nárái, his unacknowledged +son, born of a princess of Yunnan or Chiang-Mai, and +intrusted for training to the care of Phya Petcha +raja, slew Nárái's son and heir, and constituted his +foster-father king, himself acting as prime-minister +till the death of his foster-father, fifteen years after; +he then assumed the royal state himself. He is ordinarily +spoken of as Nai Dua. Two of his sons and +two of his grandsons subsequently reigned at Ayuthia. +The youngest of these grandsons reigned only +a short time, and then surrendered the royal authority +to his brother and entered the priesthood. While +this brother reigned, in the year 1759, the Birman +king, Meng-luang Alaung Barah-gyi, came with an +immense army, marching in three divisions on as +many distinct routes, and combined at last in the +siege of Aynthia.</p> + +<p>"The Siamese king, Chaufa Ekadwat Anurak +Moutri, made no resolute effort of resistance. His +great officers disagreed in their measures. The in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 30]</a></span>habitants +of all the smaller towns were indeed called +behind the walls of the city, and ordered to defend +it to their utmost ability; but jealousy and dissension +rendered all their bravery useless. Sallies and +skirmishes were frequent, in which the Birmese were +generally the victorious party. The siege was continued +for two years. The Birmese commander-in-chief, +Mahá Nōratha, died, but his principal officers +elected another in his place. At the end of the two +years the Birmese, favored by the dry season, when +the waters were shallow, crossed in safety, battered +the walls, broke down the gates, and entered without +resistance. The provisions of the Siamese were +exhausted, confusion reigned, and the Birmese fired +the city and public buildings. The king, badly +wounded, escaped with his flying subjects, but soon +died alone of his wounds and his sorrows. He was +subsequently discovered and buried.</p> + +<p>"His brother, who was in the priesthood, and now +the most important personage in the country, was +captured by the Birmans, to be conveyed in triumph +to Birmah. They perceived that the country was too +remote from their own to be governed by them; they +therefore freely plundered the inhabitants, beating, +wounding, and even killing many families, to induce +them to disclose treasures which they supposed were +hidden by them. By these measures the Birmese +officers enriched themselves with most of the wealth +of the country. After two or three months spent in +plunder they appointed a person of Mon or Peguan +origin as ruler over Siam, and withdrew with numerous +captives, leaving this Peguan officer to gather<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 31]</a></span> +fugitives and property to convey to Birmah at some +subsequent opportunity. This officer was named +Phrá Nái Kong, and made his headquarters about +three miles north of the city, at a place called Phō +Sam-ton, <i>i.e.</i>, 'the three Sacred Fig-trees.' One account +relates that the last king mentioned above, +when he fled from the city, wounded, was apprehended +by a party of travellers and brought into the +presence of Phyá Nái Kong in a state of great exhaustion +and illness; that he was kindly received and +respectfully treated, as though he was still the sovereign, +and that Phyá Nái Kong promised to confirm +him again as a ruler of Siam, but his strength +failed and he died a few days after his apprehension.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus3" id="illus3"></a><img src="images/illus003.jpg" width="320" height="204" alt="VIEW TAKEN FROM THE CANAL AT AYUTHIA." title="" /> +<span class="caption">VIEW TAKEN FROM THE CANAL AT AYUTHIA.</span> +</div> + +<p>"The conquest by Birmah, the destruction of Ayuthia, +and appointment of Phyá Nái Kong took place +in March, <span class="smcap">A.D</span>. 1767. This date is unquestionable. +The period between the foundation of Ayuthia and +its overthrow by the Birmans embraces four hundred +and seventeen years, during which there were thirty-three +kings of three distinct dynasties, of which the +first dynasty had nineteen kings with one usurper; +the second had three kings, and the third had nine +kings and one usurper.</p> + +<p>"When Ayuthia was conquered by the Birmese, +in March, 1767, there remained in the country many +bands of robbers associated under brave men as their +leaders. These parties had continued their depredations +since the first appearance of the Birman army, +and during about two years had lived by plundering +the quiet inhabitants, having no government to fear.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 32]</a></span></p> + +<p>On the return of the Birman troops to their own +country, these parties of robbers had various skirmishes +with each other during the year 1767.</p> + +<p>"The first king established at Bangkok was an extraordinary +man, of Chinese origin, named Pin Tat. +He was called by the Chinese, Tia Sin Tat, or Tuat. +He was born at a village called Bánták, in Northern +Siam, in latitude 16° N. The date of his birth was +in March, 1734. At the capture of Ayuthia he was +thirty-three years old. Previous to that time he had +obtained the office of second governor of his own +township, Tak, and he next obtained the office of +governor of his own town, under the dignified title +of Phyá Ták, which name he bears to the present +day. During the reign of the last king of Ayuthia, +he was promoted to the office and dignity of governor +of the city Kam-Cheng-philet, which from times +of antiquity was called the capital of the western +province of Northern Siam. He obtained this office +by bribing the high minister of the king, Chaufá +Ekadwat Anurak Moutri; and being a brave warrior +he was called to Ayuthia on the arrival of the +Birman troops as a member of the council. But +when sent to resist the Birman troops, who were harassing +the eastern side of the city, perceiving that +the Ayuthian government was unable to resist the +enemy, he, with his followers, fled to Chantaburi +(Chantaboun), a town on the eastern shore of the Gulf +of Siam, in latitude 12-1/2° N. and longitude 102° 10' +E. There he united with many brave men, who were +robbers and pirates, and subsisted by robbing the +villages and merchant-vessels. In this way he be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 33]</a></span>came +the great military leader of the district and +had a force of more than ten thousand men. He +soon formed a treaty of peace with the headman of +Bángplásoi, a district on the north, and with Kambuja +and Annam (or Cochin China) on the southeast."</p> + +<p>With the fall of Ayuthia and the disasters inflicted +by the Burman army ended the third dynasty in +the year 1767. So complete was the victory of the +Burmese, and so utter the overthrow of the kingdom +of Siam, that it was only after some years of disorder +and partial lawlessness that the realm became reorganized +under strong centralized authority. The +great military leader, to whom the royal chronicle +from which we have been quoting refers, seems to +have been pre-eminently the man for the hour. By +his patient sagacity, joined with bravery and qualities +of leadership which are not often found in the annals +of Oriental warfare, he succeeded in expelling the +Burmese from the capital, and in reconquering the +provinces which, during the period of anarchy consequent +on the Burmese invasion, had asserted separate +sovereignty and independence. The war which +about this time broke out between Burmah and +China made this task of throwing off the foreign +yoke more easy. And his own good sense and judicious +admixture of mildness with severity conciliated +and settled the disturbed and disorganized provinces. +Notably was this the case in the province of +Ligor, on the peninsula, where an alliance with the +beautiful daughter of the captive king, and presently +the birth of a son from the princess, made it easy to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 34]</a></span> +attach the government of that province (and incidentally +of the adjoining provinces), by ties of the +strongest allegiance to the new dynasty.</p> + +<p>Joined with Phyá Ták, in his adventures and successes +as his confidential friend and helper, was a +man of noble birth and vigorous character, who was, +indeed, scarcely the inferior of the great general in +ability. This man, closely associated with Phyá Ták, +became at last his successor. For, at the close of his +career, and after his great work of reconstructing the +kingdom was fully accomplished, Phyá Ták became +insane. The bonzes (or priests of Buddha), notwithstanding +all that he had done to enrich the temples +of the new capital (especially in bringing from Laos +"the emerald Buddha which is the pride and glory +of Bangkok at the present day"), turned against him, +declaring that he aspired to the divine honor of +Buddha himself. His exactions of money from his +rich subjects and his deeds of cruelty and arbitrary +power toward all classes became so intolerable, that +a revolt took place in the city, and the king fled for +safety to a neighboring pagoda and declared himself +a member of the priesthood. For a while his +refuge in the monastery availed to save his life. +But presently his favorite general, either in response +to an invitation from the nobles or else prompted by +his own ambition, assumed the sovereignty and put +his friend and predecessor to a violent death. The +accession of the new king (who seems to have shared +the dignity and responsibility of government with +his brother), was the commencement of the present +dynasty, to the history of which a new chapter may<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 35]</a></span> +properly be devoted. But before proceeding with +the history we interrupt the narrative to give +sketches of two European adventurers whose exploits +in Siam are among the most romantic and suggestive +in her annals.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 36]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2> + +<h3>THE STORIES OF TWO ADVENTURERS</h3> + + +<p>The sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, that golden +age of discovery and adventure, did not fail +to find in the Indo-Chinese peninsula brilliant opportunities +for the exercise of those qualities which +made their times so remarkable in the history of the +world. Marco Polo, the greatest of Asiatic travellers, +dismisses Siam in a few words as a "country +called Locac; a country good and rich, with a king of +its own. The people are idolaters and have a peculiar +language, and pay tribute to nobody, for their country +is so situated that no one can enter it to do them +ill. Indeed, if it were possible to get at it the Great +Kaan [of China] would soon bring them under subjection +to him. In this country the brazil which we +make use of grows in great plenty; and they also +have gold in incredible quantity. They have elephants +likewise, and much game. In this kingdom +too are gathered all the porcelain shells which are used +for small change in all those regions, as I have told +you before. There is nothing else to mention except +that this is a very wild region, visited by few people; +nor does the king desire that any strangers should +frequent the country and so find out about his treasures +and other resources."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 37]</a></span></p> + +<p>The Venetian's account, though probably obtained +from his Chinese sailors, is essentially correct, and applies +without much doubt to the region now known +as Siam. Sir Henry Yule derives <i>Locac</i> either from +the Chinese name Lo-hoh, pronounced <i>Lo-kok</i> by +Polo's Fokien mariners, or from Lawék, which the +late King of Siam tells us was an ancient Cambodian +city occupying the site of Ayuthia, "whose inhabitants +then possessed Southern Siam or Western Cambodia."</p> + +<p>Nearly three centuries after Polo, when the far +East had become a common hunting-ground for European +adventurers, Siam was visited by one of the most +extraordinary men of this type who ever told his thrilling +tales. The famous Portuguese, Mendez Pinto, +passed twenty-one years in various parts of Asia (1537-1558), +as merchant, pirate, soldier, sailor, and slave, +during which period he was sold sixteen times and +shipwrecked five, but happily lived to end his life +peacefully in Portugal, where his published "Peregrinacao" +earned the fate of Marco Polo's book, and +its author was stamped as a liar of the first magnitude. +Though mistaken in many of its inferences and +details Pinto's account bears surprisingly well the examination +of modern critical scholars. When we consider +the character of the man and the fact that he +must have composed his memoirs entirely from recollection, +the wonder really is that he should have erred +so little. The value of his story lies in the fact that +we get from it, as Professor Vambery suggests, "a +picture, however incomplete and defective, of the +power and authority of Asia, then still unbroken. In<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 38]</a></span> +this picture, so full of instructive details, we perceive +more than one thing fully worthy of the attention of +the latter-day reader. Above all we see the fact that +the traveller from the west, although obliged to endure +unspeakable hardships, privation, pain, and danger, +at least had not to suffer on account of his nationality +and religion, as has been the case in recent times +since the all-puissance of Europe has thrown its threatening +shadow on the interior of Asia, and the appearance +of the European is considered the foreboding of +material decay and national downfall. How utterly +different it was to travel in mediæval Asia from what +it is at present is clearly seen from the fact that in +those days missionaries, merchants, and political +agents from Europe could, even in time of war, traverse +any distances in Asiatic lands without molestation +in their personal liberty or property, just as any +Asiatic traveller of Moslem or Buddhist persuasion."</p> + +<p>Pinto seems to have gone to Siam hoping there to +repair his fortunes, which had suffered shipwreck for +the fourth time and left him in extreme destitution. +Soon after he joined in Odiaa (Ayuthia) the Portuguese +colony, which he found to be one hundred and +thirty strong, he was induced with his countrymen to +serve among the King's body-guards on an expedition +made against the rebellious Shan states in the north. +The campaign progressed favorably and ended in the +subjection of the "King of Chiammay" and his +allies, but a scheming queen, desirous of putting her +paramour on the throne, poisoned the conqueror +upon his return to Odiaa in 1545. "But whereas +heaven never leaves wicked actions unpunished, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 39]</a></span> +year after, 1546, and on <i>January</i> 15th, they were +both slain by <i>Oyaa Passilico</i> and the King of <i>Cambaya</i> +at a certain banquet which these princes made +in a temple." The usurpers were thus promptly despatched, +but the consequences of their infamy were +fateful to Siam, as Pinto informs us at some length.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus4" id="illus4"></a><img src="images/illus004.jpg" width="320" height="202" alt="RUINS OF A PAGODA AT AYUTHIA." title="" /> +<span class="caption">RUINS OF A PAGODA AT AYUTHIA.</span> +</div> + +<p>"The Empire of <i>Siam</i> remaining without a lawfull +successor, those two great lords of the Kingdom, +namely, <i>Oyaa Passilico</i>, and the King of <i>Cambaya</i>, +together with four or five men of the trustiest that +were left, and which had been confederated with them, +thought fit to chuse for King a certain religious man +named <i>Pretiem</i>, in regard he was the naturall brother +of the deceased prince, husband to that wicked queen +of whom I have spoken; whereupon this religious +man, who was a <i>Talagrepo</i> of a <i>Pagode</i>, called +<i>Quiay Mitran</i>, from whence he had not budged for +the space of thirty years, was the day after drawn +forth of it by <i>Oyaa Passilico</i>, who brought him on +<i>January</i> 17th, into the city of <i>Odiaa</i>, where on the +19th he was crowned King with a new kind of ceremony, +and a world of magnificence, which (to avoid +prolixity) I will not make mention of here, having +formerly treated of such like things. Withall passing +by all that further arrived in the Kingdom of +<i>Siam</i>, I will content myself with reporting such things +as I imagine will be most agreeable to the curious. It +happened then that the King of <i>Bramaa</i> (Burmah), +who at that time reigned tyrannically in <i>Pegu</i>, being +advertised of the deplorable estate whereunto the +Empire of <i>Sornau</i> (Siam) was reduced, and of the +death of the greatest lords of the country, as also that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 40]</a></span> +the new king of this monarchy was a religious man, +who had no knowledge either of arms or war, and, +withall of a cowardly disposition, a tyrant, and ill beloved +of his subjects, he fell to consult thereupon +with his lords in the town of <i>Anapleu</i>, where at that +time he kept his court."</p> + +<p>The decision in favor of seizing this favorable +opportunity for acquiring his neighbor's territory was +practically unanimous, and the tyrant of Pegu accordingly +assembled an army of 800,000 men, 100,000 +of whom were "strangers," <i>i.e.</i>, mercenary troops, +and among these we find 1,000 Portuguese, commanded +by one Diego Suarez d'Albergaria, nicknamed +Galego. So the Portuguese, as we shall see, +played important parts on both sides of the great +war that followed. After capturing the frontier +defences, the Burmans marched across the country +through the forests "that were cut down by three-score +thousand pioneers, whom the King had sent +before to plane the passages and wayes," and sat +down before the devoted capital. "During the first +five days that the King of <i>Bramaa</i> had been before +the city of <i>Odiaa</i>, he had bestowed labour and pains +enough, as well in making of trenches and pallisadoes, +as in the providing all things necessary for the siege; +in all which time the besieged never offered to stir, +whereof <i>Diego Suarez</i>, the marshall of the camp, +resolved to execute the design for which he came; to +which effect, of the most part of the men which he +had under his command, he made two separated +squadrons, in each of which there were six battalions +of six thousand a piece. After this manner he<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 41]</a></span> +marched in battell array, at the sound of many instruments, +towards the two poynts which the city +made on the south side, because the entrance there +seemed more facile to him than any other where. So +upon the 19th day of <i>June</i>, in the year 1548, an +hour before day, all these men of war, having set up +above a thousand ladders against the walls, endeavoured +to mount up on them; but the besieged +opposed them so valiently, that in less than half an +hour there remained dead on the place above ten +thousand on either part. In the mean time the King, +who incouraged his souldiers, seeing the ill success of +this fight, commanded these to retreat, and then +made the wall to be assaulted afresh, making use for +that effect of five thousand elephants of war which he +had brought thither and divided into twenty troops of +two hundred and fifty apiece, upon whom there were +twenty thousand <i>Moens</i> and <i>Chaleus</i>, choice men and +that had double pay. The wall was then assaulted by +these forces with so terrible an impetuosity as I want +words to express it. For whereas all the elephants +carried wooden castles on their backs, from whence +they shot with muskets, brass culverins, and a great +number of harquebuses a crock, each of them ten or +twelve spans long, these guns made such an havock +of the besieged that in less than a quarter of an hour +the most of them were beaten down; the elephants +withall setting their trunks to the target fences, which +served as battlements, and wherewith they within defended +themselves, tore them down in such sort as +not one of them remained entire; so that by this +means the wall was abandoned of all defence, no man<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 42]</a></span> +daring to shew himself above. In this sort was the +entry into the city very easy to the assailants, who +being invited by so good success to make their profit +of so favourable an occasion, set up their ladders again +which they had quitted, and mounting up by them to +the top of the wall with a world of cries and acclamations, +they planted thereon in sign of victory a number +of banners and ensigns. Now because the <i>Turks</i> +(Arabs?) desired to have therein a better share than +the rest, they besought the King to do them so much +favour as to give them the vantguard, which the King +easily granted them, and that by the counsell of <i>Diego +Suarez</i>, who desired nothing more than to see their +number lessened, always gave them the most dangerous +imployments. They in the mean time extraordinarily +contented, whither more rash or more infortunate +than the rest, sliding down by a pane of +the wall, descended through a bulwark into a place +which was below, with an intent to open a gate and +give an entrance unto the King, to the end that they +might rightly boast that they all alone had delivered +to him the capital city of <i>Siam</i>; for he had before +promised to give unto whomsoever should deliver up +the city unto him, a thousand bisses of gold, which in +value are five hundred thousand ducates of our money. +These <i>Turks</i> being gotten down, as I have said, +laboured to break open a gate with two rams which +they had brought with them for that purpose; but as +they were occupied about it they saw themselves +suddenly charged by three thousand <i>Jaos</i>, all resolute +souldiers, who fell upon them with such fury, as in +little more than a quarter of an hour there was not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 43]</a></span> +so much as one <i>Turk</i> left alive in the place, wherewith +not contented, they mounted up immediately to +the top of the wall, and so flesht as they were and +covered over with the blood of the <i>Turks</i>, they set +upon the <i>Bramaa's</i> men which they found there, so +valiently that most of them were slain and the rest +tumbled down over the wall.</p> + +<p>"The King of <i>Bramaa</i> redoubling his courage +would not for all that give over this assault, so as +imagining that those elephants alone would be able +to give him an entry into the city, he caused them +once again to approach unto the wall. At the noise +hereof <i>Oyaa Passilico</i>, captain general of the city, +ran in all haste to this part of the wall, and caused +the gate to be opened through which the <i>Bramaa</i> +pretended to enter, and then sent him word that +whereas he was given to understand how his Highness +had promised to give a thousand bisses of gold, +he had now performed it so that he might enter if he +would make good his word and send him the gold, +which he stayed there to receive. The King of <i>Bramaa</i> +having received this jear, would not vouchsafe +to give an answer, but instantly commanded the city +to be assaulted. The fight began so terrible as it was +a dreadfull thing to behold, the rather for that the +violence of it lasted above three whole hours, during +the which time the gate was twice forced open, and +twice the assailants got an entrance into the city, +which the King of <i>Siam</i> no sooner perceived, and +that all was in danger to be lost, but he ran speedily +to oppose them with his followers, the best souldiers +that were in all the city: whereupon the conflict grew<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 44]</a></span> +much hotter than before, and continued half an hour +and better, during the which I do not know what +passed, nor can say any other thing save that we saw +streams of bloud running every where and the air all +of a light fire; there was also on either part such a +tumult and noise, as one would have said the earth +had been tottering; for it was a most dreadful thing +to hear the discord and jarring of those barbarous instruments, +as bells, drums, and trumpets, intermingled +with the noise of the great ordnance and smaller shot, +and the dreadful yelling of six thousand elephants, +whence ensued so great a terrour that it took from +them that heard it both courage and strength. <i>Diego +Suarez</i> then, seeing their forces quite repulsed out +of the city, the most part of the elephants hurt, and +the rest so scared with the noise of the great ordnance, +as it was impossible to make them return unto the +wall, counselled the King to sound a retreat, whereunto +the King yielded, though much against his will, +because he observed that both he and the most part +of the <i>Portugals</i> were wounded."</p> + +<p>The king's wound took seventeen days to heal, a +breathing space which we can imagine both sides accepted +with satisfaction. Nothing daunted by the +failure of his first onset, he attacked the city again +and again during the four months of the siege, employing +against it the machines and devices of a +Greek engineer in his service, and achieving prodigies +of valor. At length, upon the suggestion of his +Portuguese captain, he began "with bavins and green +turf to erect a kind of platform higher than the +walls, and thereon mounted good store of great ord<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 45]</a></span>nance, +wherewith the principal fortifications of the +city should be battered." Considering the exhausted +state of the defenders it is likely that this elaborate +effort would have succeeded, but before the critical +moment arrived word came from home that the +"<i>Xemindoo</i> being risen up in <i>Pegu</i> had cut fifteen +thousand <i>Bramaas</i> there in pieces, and had withal +seized on the principal places of the country. At +these news the King was so troubled, that without +further delay he raised the siege and imbarqued himself +on a river called <i>Pacarau</i>, where he stayed but +that night and the day following, which he imployed +in retiring his great ordnance and ammunition. Then +having set fire on all the pallisadoes and lodgings of +the camp, he parted away on Tuesday the 15th of +<i>October</i>, 1548, for to go to the town of <i>Martabano</i>." +So was Ayuthia honorably saved, but Pinto, we fear, +followed with his countryman Diego in the Bramaa's +train, for he has much to say henceforth of the civil +disturbance in Burma and the Xemindoo's final suppression, +but of Siam, excepting a brief description of +the country, he tells us nothing more.</p> + +<p>About a century after Pinto's stay in Siam another +adventurer found his way thither while seeking +his fortune in the golden Orient and encountered +there such vicissitudes of experience as to rival +in picturesqueness and wonder the tales of the Arabian +Nights. This was the Greek sailor, Constantine +Phaulcon, whose story, even when stripped of the +extravagant embellishments with which the devout +priest, his biographer, has adorned it, is marvellous +enough to deserve a place in the annals of travel and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 46]</a></span> +adventure. His strange life has been woven into a +romance, "Phaulcon the Adventurer," by William +Dalton, but the following sketch of his career, condensed +from Sir John Bowring's translation of Père +d'Orléans' "Histoire de M. Constance," printed in +Tours in 1690, is a better authority for our purpose.</p> + +<p>Constantine Phaulcon, or Falcon, born in Cephalonia, +was the son of a Venetian nobleman and a +Greek lady of rank. Owing to his parents' poverty, +however, he left home when a mere boy to shift for +himself, and presently drifted into the employ of the +English East India Company. After several years +passed in this service he accumulated money enough +to buy a ship and embark in speculations of his own, +but three shipwrecks following in rapid succession +brought him at length into a desperate plight of poverty +and debt. Being cast in his third misadventure +upon the Malabar coast, he there found a fellow +sufferer, the sole survivor of a like catastrophe, who +proved to be the Siamese ambassador to Persia returning +from his mission. Phaulcon was able with +the little money saved in his belt to assist the ambassador +to Ayuthia, where that officer in gratitude +recommended him to the Baraclan (prime-minister) +and the king, both of whom were delighted with his +ability and determined to make use of him. He was +first taken into favor, it is said, from the address +with which he supplanted the Moors in the employment, +which seemed to have been made over to +them, of preparing the splendid entertainments and +pageants that were the king's chief pride. Reforms<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 47]</a></span> +introduced into this office resulted in the production +of much more effective spectacles at a smaller expense +to the treasury, for the Moors had indulged in +some knavish practices, and when their dishonesty +was discovered by the Greek his high place in the +sovereign's estimation was fully assured.</p> + +<p>At this time his prosperity was interrupted by a +severe illness that well-nigh proved fatal to the new +favorite, but was turned to good account by Father +Antoine Thomas, a Flemish Jesuit, who was passing +through Siam on his way to join the Portuguese +missions in China and Japan. Thoroughly alive to +the importance of securing so powerful a man to the +Roman Church, the good father adroitly converted +the invalid, and at last had the satisfaction of receiving +from Phaulcon abjuration of his errors and heresies +and numbering him among the faithful. By +the priest's advice, also, "he married, a few days +afterward, a young Japanese lady of good family, +distinguished not only by rank, but also by the blood +of the martyrs from whom she was descended and +whose virtues she imitates." It is an interesting episode +in the history of Siam that for about a generation +near the beginning of the seventeenth century +there existed, besides the free intercourse with Western +nations, an active exchange of commodities between +this part of Cochin China and Japan, many +of whose merchants found good employments under +Phra Narain, the Siamese king. They proved +themselves, however, to be such profound schemers +as finally to earn the hatred of the natives, who +drove them out in 1632. Soon after this date<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 48]</a></span> +Japan adopted a policy of complete exclusion and +we hear no more of her subjects in any foreign +country.</p> + +<p>"If, as a man of talent," continues Père d'Orléans, +"Phaulcon knew how to avail himself of the royal +favor to establish his own fortune, he used it no less +faithfully for the glory of his master and the good of +the state; still more, as a true Christian, for the advancement +of religion. Up to this time he had aimed +chiefly to increase commerce, which occupies the attention +of Oriental sovereigns far more than politics, +and had succeeded so well that the king of Siam was +now one of the richest monarchs in Asia; but he +considered that, having enriched, he should now endeavor +to render his Sovereign illustrious by making +known to foreign nations the noble qualities which +distinguished him; and his chief aim being the establishment +of Christianity in Siam, he resolved to +engage his master to form treaties of friendship with +those European monarchs who were most capable of +advancing this object."</p> + +<p>We must be cautious, however, in accepting all his +motives from his Jesuit biographer, who doubtless +does him too much honor. According to the Dutch +historian Kämpfer, Phaulcon had the fate of all his +kind ever before his eyes, and the better to secure himself +in his exalted position, "he thought it necessary +to secure it by some foreign power, of which he +judged the French nation to be the most proper for +seconding his designs, which appeared even to aim at +the royal dignity. In order to do this he made his +sovereign believe that by the assistance of the said<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 49]</a></span> +nation he might polish his subjects and put his dominion +into a flourishing condition."</p> + +<p>Whatever his intentions, it is certain that Phaulcon +carried his point, and an embassy was sent to the +court of Louis XIV. In return the Chevalier de +Chaumont, accompanied by a considerable retinue, +and bearing royal gifts and letters, was despatched to +Siam, where he arrived in September, 1685, and was +splendidly received. Phaulcon was, of course, foremost +among the dignitaries; the shipwrecked adventurer, +who had risen from the position of common +sailor to the post of premier in a rich and thriving +realm, found himself receiving on terms of equality +and in a style of magnificence that, even to European +eyes, seemed admirable, the ambassador of the most +illustrious king in Europe. Whether his loyalty to +the sovereign whom he was bound to serve was always +quite above the suspicion of intrigue with the French +is more than doubtful. He greatly desired on his +own behalf to effect the conversion of the king to +Catholicism, and did what he could to support the +arguments of the French envoy to this end. But +the king, who was a shrewd man, refused to abandon +the religion of his ancestors for that of these designing +foreigners.</p> + +<p>"Phaulcon had long thought," says the Père d'Orléans, +"of bringing to Siam Jesuits who, like those +in China, might introduce the Gospel at court through +the mathematical sciences, especially astronomy. Six +Jesuits having profited by so good an occasion as that +of the embassy of the Chevalier de Chaumont to stop +in Siam on their way to China, M. Constance upon<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 50]</a></span> +seeing them begged that some might be sent to him +from France; and for this especial object Father +Tachard, one of the six, was requested to return to +Europe." This was really the first step in Phaulcon's +ruin; for, aware that his master could not in this +way encourage the Christians without incurring the +hatred of both the Buddhists and Mohammedans in +the kingdom, he conceived the plan of begging Louis +for some French troops ostensibly to accompany and +support the missionaries, but practically to sustain his +influence by force, and in the event of defeat to hand +the country over to France. Three officers returned +with M. de Chaumont and effected a treaty whereby +Louis promised to send some troops to the Siamese +king, "not only to instruct his own in our discipline, +but also to be at his disposal according as he should +need them for the security of his person, or for that +of his kingdom. In the mean time the king of Siam +would appoint the French soldiers to guard two +places where they would be commanded by their +own officers under the authority of this monarch." +The troops and a dozen missionaries set out under +Father Tachard's charge in 1686.</p> + +<p>But ere they arrived trouble was brewing in Siam. +"The Mohammedans," says the historian, "had long +flattered themselves with the hope of inducing the +king and people of Siam to accept the Koran; but +when they saw the monarch thus closely allying himself +with Christians, their fears were greatly excited; +and the great difference which had been made between +the French and Persian ambassadors, in the +honors shown them in their audiences with his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 51]</a></span> +majesty, had so much increased the apprehensions of +the infidels that they resolved to avert the apprehended +misfortune by attempting the life of the +king. The authors of this evil design were two +princes of Champa and a prince of Macassar, all of +them refugees in Siam, where the king had offered +them an asylum against some powerful enemies of +their own countries. A Malay captain encouraged +them by prophecies which he circulated among the +zealots of his own sect, of whom he shortly assembled +a sufficient number to carry out the conspiracy, had +it not been discovered; which, however, it was"—and +promptly suppressed by the minister, to his great credit +and honor at court. Phaulcon then was at the pinnacle +of his power when the Frenchmen landed, an +audience was granted and ratifications exchanged.</p> + +<p>"M. Constance had already so high an esteem for +our great king [Louis], and the king of Siam, his +master, had entered so entirely into his sentiments, +that this sovereign, thinking the French troops were +not sufficiently near his person, determined to ask +from the king, in addition to the troops already +landed, a company of two hundred body-guards. As +there was much to arrange between the two monarchs +for the establishment of religion, not only in Siam, +but in many other places where M. Constance hoped +to spread it, they resolved that Father Tachard should +return to France, accompanied by three mandarins, to +present to his majesty the letter from their king; +and that he should thence proceed to Rome, to solicit +from the Pope assistance in preserving tranquillity +and spreading Christianity in the Indies.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 52]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Father Tachard, having received from the king +and his minister the necessary orders, left his companions +under the direction of M. Constance, and +quitted Siam, accompanied by the envoys-extraordinary +of the king, at the beginning of the year 1686. +He reached Brest in the month of July in the same +year.</p> + +<p>"Never was negotiation more successful. Occupied +as was the king in waging war with the greater +part of Europe, leagued against him by the Protestant +party, he made no delay in equipping vessels to +convey to the king of Siam the guards which he had +requested."</p> + +<p>It is certainly not surprising that some of the +Siamese noblemen should have looked with suspicion +on the extraordinary measures which Phaulcon had +inaugurated. With a French military force in possession +of some of the most important points in the +kingdom, and with the Roman Catholic religion securing +for itself something like a dominant establishment, +it is no wonder that conspiracies against the +authors of the new movement should be repeated +and ultimately successful. The king had no male +heir; and it seemed to a nobleman named Pitraxa +that the succession might as well come to him as to +the foreigner who had already risen to such a dangerous +authority. This time the conspiracy was +more audaciously and triumphantly carried out. The +king, who was beginning to grow old and infirm, was +taken sick, and during his illness Pitraxa got possession +of the royal seals, and by means of them secured +supplies of arms and powder for the further<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 53]</a></span>ance +of his designs. The crisis rapidly approached. +Phaulcon determined to arrest the chief conspirator, +but was for once outwitted. The French forces which +he summoned to his assistance were intercepted and +turned back by a false report. Pitraxa made himself +master of the palace, of the person of the king, +and of all the royal family. It was evident to Phaulcon +that the end had come. His resolution was +taken accordingly.</p> + +<p>"Having with him a few Frenchmen, two Portuguese, +and sixteen English soldiers, he called these +together, and, with his confessor, entered his chapel +that he might prepare for the death which appeared +to await him; whence passing into his wife's chamber, +he bade her farewell, saying that the king was a +prisoner, and that he would die at his feet. He then +went out to go direct to the palace, flattering himself +that with the small number of Europeans who +followed him, he should be able to make his way +through the Indians, who endeavored to arrest him, +so as to reach the king. He would have succeeded +had his followers been as determined as himself; but +on entering the first court of the palace, he was suddenly +surrounded by a troop of Siamese soldiers. +He was putting himself into a defensive attitude +when he perceived that he was abandoned by all his +suite except the French, so that the contest was too +unequal to be long maintained. He was obliged +to yield to the force of numbers, and he and the +Frenchmen with him were made prisoners and +loaded with irons."</p> + +<p>It remained for the usurper to rid himself of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 54]</a></span> +French soldiers, who were still in possession of the +two most considerable places in the country. Under +a false pretext he won over to himself, temporarily, +the commander of the French forces. "Upon this, +six French officers who were at court, finding their +safety endangered, resolved to leave and retire to +Bangkok. They armed themselves, mounted on +horseback, and under pretence of a ride, easily escaped +from the guard Pitraxa had appointed to accompany +them. It is true that, for the one they had +got rid of, they found between Louvô and the river +troops at different intervals, which, however, they +easily passed. On reaching the river they discovered +a boat filled with talapoins, which they seized, +driving away its occupants. As, however, they did +not take the precaution of tying down the rowers, +they had the vexation of having them escape under +cover of the night, each swimming away from his +own side of the boat. Compelled to row it themselves, +they soon became so weary that they determined +to land, and continue their journey on foot. +This was not without its difficulties, as the people, +warned by the talapoins whose boat had been seized, +and by the fugitive rowers, assembled in troops upon +the riverside, uttering loud cries. Notwithstanding +this, they leaped out, and gained the plains of Ayuthia, +where, most unfortunately, they lost their way. +The populace still followed them, and though not +venturing to approach very near, never lost sight of +them and continued to annoy them as much as possible. +They might, after all, have escaped, had not +hunger compelled them to enter into a parley for a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 55]</a></span> +supply of provisions. In answer, they were told that +they would not be listened to until they had laid down +their arms. Then these cowardly wretches, instead +of furnishing them with provisions, threw themselves +upon them, stripped them, and carried them bound +to Ayuthia, whence they were sent back to Louvô +most unworthily treated. A troop of three hundred +Mohammedans, which Pitraxa on learning their flight +sent in pursuit of them, and which met them on their +return, treated them so brutally that one named Brecy +died from the blows they inflicted. The rest were +committed to prison on their arrival at Louvô.</p> + +<p>"From this persecution of the French fugitives, +the infidels insensibly passed to persecuting all the +Christians in Siam, as soon as they learned that M. +Desfarges was on the road to join Pitraxa; for from +that time the tyrant, giving way to the suspicions infused +by crime and ambition, no longer preserved an +appearance of moderation toward those he hated. +His detestation of the Christians had been for some +time kept within bounds by the esteem he still felt +for the French; but he had no sooner heard of the +deference shown by their general to the orders he had +sent him, than, beginning to fear nothing, he spared +none.</p> + +<p>"As the prison of M. Constance was in the interior +of the palace, no one knows the details of his +sufferings. Some say, that to make him confess the +crimes of which he was accused, they burned the +soles of his feet; others that an iron hoop was bound +round his temples. It is certain that he was kept in +a prison made of stakes, loaded with three heavy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 56]</a></span> +chains, and wanting even the necessaries of life, till +Madame Constance, having discovered the place of +his imprisonment, obtained permission to furnish +him with them.</p> + +<p>"She could not long continue to do so, being soon +herself in want. The usurper had at first appeared +to respect her virtue, and had shown her some degree +of favor; he had restored her son, who had been +taken from her by the soldiers, and exculpated himself +from the robbery. But these courtesies were +soon discontinued. The virtues of Madame Constance +had for a time softened the ferocity of the tyrant; +but the report of her wealth, which he supposed +to be enormous, excited his cupidity, which +could not in any way be appeased.</p> + +<p>"On May 30th, the official seals of her husband +were demanded from her; the next day his arms, +his papers, and his clothes were carried off; another +day boxes were sealed, and the keys taken away; a +guard was placed before her dwelling, and a sentinel +at the door of her room to keep her in sight. Hitherto +nothing had shaken her equanimity; but this +last insult so confounded her, that she could not help +complaining. 'What,' exclaimed she, weeping, +'what have I done to be treated like a criminal?' +This, however, was the only complaint drawn by adversity +from this noble Christian lady during the +whole course of her trials. Even this emotion of +weakness, so pardonable in a woman of two-and-twenty +who had hitherto known nothing of misfortune, +was quickly repaired; for two Jesuits who +happened to be with her on this occasion, having<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 57]</a></span> +mildly represented to her that Christians who have +their treasure in heaven, and who regard it as their +country, should not afflict themselves like pagans for +the loss of wealth and freedom—'It is true,' said she, +recovering her tranquillity: 'I was wrong, my Fathers. +God gave all; He takes all away: may His holy name +be praised! I pray only for my husband's deliverance.'</p> + +<p>"Scarcely two days had elapsed after the placing +of the seals when a mandarin, followed by a hundred +men, came to break them by order of his new +master, and carried off all the money, furniture and +jewels he found in the apartments of this splendid +palace. Madame Constance had the firmness herself +to conduct him, and to put into his hands all that he +wished to take; after which, looking at the Fathers, +who still continued with her, 'Now,' said she, calmly, +'God alone remains to us; but none can separate us +from Him.'</p> + +<p>"The mandarin having retired with his booty, it +was supposed she was rid of him, and that nothing +more could be demanded from those who had been +plundered of all their possessions. The two Jesuits +had left to return to their own dwelling, imagining +there could be nothing to fear for one who had been +stripped of her property, and who, having committed +no crime, seemed shielded from every other risk. In +the evening it appeared that they were mistaken; +for, about six o'clock, the same mandarin, accompanied +by his satellites, came to demand her hidden +treasures. 'I have nothing hidden,' she answered: +'if you doubt my word, you can look; you are the +master here, and everything is open.' So temperate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 58]</a></span> +a reply appeared to irritate the ruffian. 'I will not +seek,' said he, 'but, without stirring from the spot, I +will compel you to bring me what I ask, or have you +scourged to death.' So saying, the wretch gave the +signal to the executioners, who came forward with +cords to bind, and thick rattans to scourge her. +These preparations at first bewildered the poor woman, +thus abandoned to the fury of a ferocious brute. +She uttered a loud cry, and throwing herself at his +feet said, with a look that might have touched the +hardest heart, 'Have pity on me!' But this barbarian +answered with his accustomed fierceness, that +he would have no mercy on her, ordering her to be +taken and tied to the door of her room, and having +her arms, hands and fingers cruelly beaten. At this +sad spectacle, her grandmother, her relatives, her +servants, and her son uttered cries which would have +moved any one but this hardened wretch. The +whole of the unhappy family cast themselves at his +feet, and touching the ground with their foreheads, +implored mercy, but in vain. He continued to torture +her from seven to nine o'clock; and not having +been able to gain anything, he carried her off, with all +her family, except the grandmother, whose great age +and severe illness made it impossible to remove her.</p> + +<p>"For some time no one knew what had become of +Madame Constance, but at last her position was discovered. +A Jesuit father was one day passing by +the stables of her palace, when the lady's aunt, who +shared her captivity, begged permission of the guards +to address the holy man, and ask him for money, +promising that they should share it. In this manner<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 59]</a></span> +was made known the humiliating condition of this +unhappy and illustrious lady, shut up in a stable, +where, half dead from the sufferings she had endured, +she lay stretched upon a piece of matting, her +son at her side. The father daily sent her provisions, +which were the only means of subsistence for +herself and family, to whom she distributed food +with so small a regard for her own wants, that a +little rice and dried fish were all that she took for +her own share, she having made a vow to abstain +from meat for the rest of her life.</p> + +<p>"Up to this time, the grand mandarin had not +ventured to put an end to the existence of M. Constance, +whom the French general had sent to demand, +as being under the protection of the king, his +master; but now, judging that there was nothing +more to fear either from him or from his friends, he +resolved to get rid of him. It was on the 5th of +June, Whitsun-eve, that he ordered his execution by +the Phaja Sojatan, his son, after having, without any +form of trial, caused to be read in the palace the sentence +of death given by himself against this minister, +whom he accused of having leagued with his enemies. +This sentence pronounced, the accused was mounted +on an elephant, and taken, well guarded, into the +forest of Thale-Phutson, as if the tyrant had chosen +the horrors of solitude to bury in oblivion an unjust +and cruel deed.</p> + +<p>"Those who conducted him remarked that during +the whole way he appeared perfectly calm, praying +earnestly, and often repeating aloud the names of +Jesus and of Mary.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 60]</a></span></p> + +<p>"When they reached the place of execution, he +was ordered to dismount, and told that he must prepare +to die. The approach of death did not alarm +him; he saw it near as he had seen it at a distance, +and with the same intrepidity. He asked of the Sojatan +only a few moments to finish his prayer, which he +did kneeling, with so touching an air, that these heathens +were moved by it. His petitions concluded, he +lifted his hands toward heaven, and protesting his innocence, +declared that he died willingly, having the +testimony of his conscience that, as a minister, he +had acted solely for the glory of the true God, the +service of the King, and the welfare of the state; +that he forgave his enemies, as he hoped himself to +be forgiven by God. 'For the rest, my lord,' said +he, turning to the Sojatan, 'were I as guilty as my +enemies declare me, my wife and my son are innocent: +I commend them to your protection, asking +for them neither wealth nor position, but only +life and liberty.' Having uttered these few words, +he meekly raised his eyes to heaven, showing by +his silence that he was ready to receive the fatal +blow.</p> + +<p>"An executioner advanced, and cut him in two +with a back stroke of his sabre, which brought him +to the ground, heaving one last, long sigh.</p> + +<p>"Thus died, at the age of forty-one, in the very +prime of life, this distinguished man, whose sublime +genius, political skill, great energy and penetration, +warm zeal for religion, and strong attachment to the +King, his master, rendered him worthy of a longer +life and of a happier destiny.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 61]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Who can describe the grief of Madame Constance +at the melancholy news of her husband's death?</p> + +<p>"This illustrious descendant of Japanese martyrs +was subjected to incredible persecutions, which she +endured to the end with heroic constancy and wonderful +resignation."</p> + +<p>From this edifying narrative, grandiloquent and +devout by turns, and written from the Jesuit point +of view, it is sufficiently surprising to turn to Kämpfer's +brief and prosaic account of the same events. +According to him the intrigue and treachery was +wholly on the side of Phaulcon, who had planned to +place on the throne the king's son-in-law, Moupi-Tatso, +a dependent and tool of his own, as soon as the +sick king, whose increasing dropsy threatened him +with sudden dissolution, should be dead; Pitraxa and +his sons, the king's two brothers, as presumptive +heirs to the crown, and whoever else was like to oppose +the conspirator's designs, were to be despatched +out of the way. "Pursuant to this scheme, Moupi's +father and relations had already raised one thousand +four hundred men, who lay dispersed through the +country; and the better to facilitate the execution of +this design, Phaulcon persuaded the sick king, having +found means to introduce himself into his apartment +in private, that it would be very much for the +security of his person, during the ill state of his +health, to send for the French general and part of his +garrison up to Louvô, where the king then was, being +a city fifteen leagues north of Ayuthia, and the usual +place of the king's residence, where he used to spend +the greater part of his time. General des Farges be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 63]</a></span>ing +on his way thither, the conspiracy was discovered +by Pitraxa's own son, who happening to be with two +of the king's concubines in an apartment adjoining +that where the conspirators were, had the curiosity +to listen at the door, and having heard the bloody +resolution that had been taken, immediately repaired +to his father to inform him of it. Pitraxa without +loss of time acquainted the king with this conspiracy, +and then sent for Moupi, Phaulcon, and the mandarins +of their party, as also for the captain of the +guards, to court, and caused the criminals forthwith +to be put in irons, notwithstanding the king expressed +the greatest displeasure at his so doing. +Phaulcon had for some time absented himself from +court, but now being summoned, he could no longer +excuse himself, though dreading some ill event: it is +said he took leave of his family in a very melancholy +manner. Soon after, his silver chair, wherein he +was usually carried, came back empty—a bad omen +to his friends and domestics, who could not but prepare +themselves to partake in their master's misfortune. +This happened May 19th, in the year 1689. +Two days after, Pitraxa ordered, against the king's +will, Moupi's head to be struck off, throwing it at +Phaulcon's feet, then loaded with irons, with this +reproach: 'See, there is your king!' The unfortunate +sick king, heartily sorry for the death of his +dearest Moupi, earnestly desired that the deceased's +body might not be exposed to any further shame, +but decently buried, which was accordingly complied +with. Moupi's father was seized by stratagem upon +his estate between Ayuthia and Louvô, and all their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 64]</a></span> +adherents were dispersed. Phaulcon, after having +been tortured and starved for fourteen days, and +thereby reduced almost to a skeleton, had at last his +irons taken off, and was carried away after sunset in +an ordinary chair, unknowing what would be his fate. +He was first carried to his house, which he found +rifled: his wife lay a prisoner in the stable, who, far +from taking leave of him, spit in his face, and would +not so much as suffer him to kiss his only remaining +son of four years of age, another son being lately dead +and still unburied. From thence he was carried out +of town to the place of execution, where, notwithstanding +all his reluctancy, he had his head cut off. +His body was divided into two parts, and covered +with a little earth, which the dogs scratched away in +the night-time, and devoured the corpse to the bones. +Before he died he took his seal, two silver crosses, a +relic set in gold which he wore on his breast, being a +present from the Pope, as also the order of St. Michael +which was sent him by the King of France, and +delivered them to a mandarin who stood by, desiring +him to give them to his little son—presents, indeed, +that could be of no great use to the poor child, who +to this day, with his mother, goes begging from door +to door, nobody daring to intercede for them."<a name="FNanchor_A_4" id="FNanchor_A_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_4" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></p> + +<p>It seems to be growing every year more difficult to +form positive opinions concerning the various characters +with whom history makes us acquainted, and +we have here a sufficiently wide choice between two +opposite estimates of poor Phaulcon. But whichever<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 64]</a></span> +estimate we adopt, it remains abundantly evident +that his career is one of the most romantic and extraordinary +in the world. Venetian by descent, Greek +by birth, English by avocation, Siamese by choice +and fortune; at first almost a beggar, a shipwrecked +adventurer against whom fate seemed hopelessly adverse, +he became the chief actor in a scheme of dominion +which might have given to France a realm +rivalling in wealth and grandeur the British possessions +in India.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_4" id="Footnote_A_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_4"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> History of Japan, vol. i., pp. 19-21. London, 1728; quoted +in Bowring.</p></div> + +<p>Some traces of the public works of which Phaulcon +was the founder still remain to show the nature +of the internal improvements which he inaugurated. +His scheme of foreign alliance was a failure, but that +he did much to develop the resources of the kingdom +there would seem to be no doubt. "At Lopha-buri," +says Sir John Bowring, "a city founded +about <span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 600, the palace of Phaulcon still exists: +and there are the remains of a Christian church +founded by him, in which, some of the traditions say, +he was put to death. I brought with me from Bangkok, +the capital, one of the columns of the church, +richly carved and gilded, as a relic of the first<a name="FNanchor_A_5" id="FNanchor_A_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_5" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> +Christian temple erected in Siam, and as associated +with the history of that singular, long-successful and +finally sacrificed adventurer. The words <i>Jesus Hominum +Salvator</i> are still inscribed over the canopy of +the altar, upon which the image of Buddha now sits +to be worshipped."</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_5" id="Footnote_A_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_5"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> Sir John Bowring was mistaken. It seems to be well enough +established that one or two Christian churches were built by the +Portuguese, a century before the date of Phaulcon's career.</p></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2> + +<h3>MODERN SIAM</h3> + + +<p>The present king of Siam is the fourth in succession +from that distinguished general who was +at first the friend and companion, and at last something +like the murderer of the renowned Phya Tak, +the founder of the new capital, and indeed of the new +kingdom of Siam. For, with the fall of Ayuthia and +the removal of the seat of government to Bangkok, +the country entered on a new era of prosperity and +progress. Bangkok is not far from sixty miles nearer +to the mouth of the river than Ayuthia, and the geographical +change was significant of an advance toward +the other nations of the world and of more intimate +relations of commerce and friendship with +them. The founder of this dynasty reigned prosperously +for twenty-seven years, and under his sway the +country enjoyed the repose and peace which after a +period of prolonged and devastating war it so greatly +needed. After him his son continued the pacific administration +of the government for fourteen years, +until 1824. At the death of this king (the second of +the new dynasty), who left as heirs to the throne two +sons of the same mother, the succession was usurped +by an illegitimate son, who contrived by cunning +management and by a readiness to avail himself of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 66]</a></span> +force, if it was needed, to possess himself of the +sovereignty, and to be confirmed in it by the nobles +and council of state. The two legitimate sons of the +dead king, the oldest of whom had been expressly +named to succeed his father, were placed by this usurpation +in a position of extreme peril; and the elder of +the two retired at once into a Buddhist monastery as +a <i>talapoin</i>, where he was safe from molestation and +could wait his time to claim his birthright. The +younger son, as having less to fear, took public office +under the usurper and acquainted himself with the +cares and responsibilities of government.</p> + +<p>After a reign of twenty-seven years, closing in the +year 1851, the usurper died. His reign was marked +by some events of extraordinary interest. His royal +palace was destroyed by fire, but afterward rebuilt +upon a larger scale and in a better style. And various +military expeditions against adjoining countries +were undertaken with results of more or less importance. +The most interesting of these expeditions was +that against the Laos country, a brief account of which +by an intelligent and able writer is quoted in Bowring's +book. As a picture of the style of warfare and the +barbarous cruelties of a successful campaign, it is striking +and instructive. It is as follows:</p> + +<p>"The expedition against Laos was successful. As +usual in Siamese warfare, they laid waste the country, +plundered the inhabitants, brought them to Bangkok, +sold them and gave them away as slaves. The prince +Vun Chow and family made their escape into Cochin +China; but instead of meeting with a friendly reception +they were seized by the king of that country and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 67]</a></span> +delivered as prisoners to the Siamese. The king (of +Laos) arrived in Bangkok about the latter end of 1828, +and underwent there the greatest cruelties barbarians +could invent. He was confined in a large iron cage, +exposed to a burning sun, and obliged to proclaim to +every one that the king of Siam was great and merciful, +that he himself had committed a great error, and +deserved his present punishment. In this cage were +placed with the prisoner a large mortar to pound him +in, a large boiler to boil him in, a hook to hang him +by and a sword to decapitate him; also a sharp +pointed spike for him to sit on. His children were +sometimes put in along with him. He was a mild, respectable-looking, +old, gray-headed man, and did not +live long to gratify his tormentors, death having put an +end to his sufferings. His body was taken and hung +in chains on the bank of the river, about two or three +miles below Bangkok. The conditions on which the +Cochin Chinese gave up Chow Vun Chow were, that +the king of Siam would appoint a new prince to govern +the Laos country, who should be approved of by +the Cochin Chinese, and that the court of Siam should +deliver up the persons belonging to the Siamese army +who attacked and killed some Cochin Chinese during +the Laos war."</p> + +<p>It is safe to say that the kingdom has by this time +made such progress in civilization that a picture of +barbarism and cruelty like that which is given in the +above narrative could not possibly be repeated in +Siam to-day.</p> + +<p>The reign of this king was noteworthy for the +treaty of commerce between Great Britain and Siam,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 68]</a></span> +negotiated by Captain Burney, as also for other negotiations +tending to similar and larger intercourse +with other countries, especially with the United +States. But the concessions granted were ungenerous, +and a spirit of jealousy and dislike continued to +govern the conduct of Siam toward other nations.</p> + +<p>Notwithstanding the slow growth of that enlightened +confidence which is the only sure guaranty of +commercial prosperity, Siam was brought into connection +with the outside world through the labors of +the missionaries, both Roman Catholic and Protestant, +who, during the reign of this king, established +themselves in the country. Some more detailed +reference to the labors and successes of the missionaries +will be made in a subsequent chapter. It is by +means of these self-sacrificing and devoted men that +the great advances which Siam has made have been +chiefly brought about. The silent influence which +they were exerting during this period, from 1824 to +1851, was really the great fact of the reign of the +king Phra Chao Pravat Thong. Once or twice the +king became suspicious of them, and attempted to +hinder or to put an end to their labors. In 1848 he +went so far as to issue an edict against the Roman +Catholic missionaries, commanding the destruction of +all their places of worship; but the edict was only +partially carried into execution. The change which +has taken place in the attitude of the government in +regard to religious liberty, and the sentiments of the +present king in regard to it, are best expressed by a +royal proclamation issued during the year 1870, a +quotation from which is given in the Bangkok Calen<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 69]</a></span>dar +for the next year ensuing, introduced by a brief +note from the editor, the Rev. D. B. Bradley.</p> + +<p>"The following translation is an extract from the +Royal Siamese Calendar for the current year. It is +issued by the authority of his majesty, the supreme +king, and is to me quite interesting in many respects, +but especially in the freedom it accords to all Siamese +subjects in the great concerns of their religion. Having +near the close of the pamphlet given good moral +lessons, the paper concludes with the following noble +sentiments, and very remarkable for a heathen king +to promulgate:</p> + +<p>"In regard to the concern of seeking and holding +a religion that shall be a refuge to yourself in this +life, it is a good concern and exceedingly appropriate +and suitable that you all—every individual of you—should +investigate and judge for himself according to +his own wisdom. And when you see any religion +whatever, or any company of religionists whatever, +likely to be of advantage to yourself, a refuge in accord +with your own wisdom, hold to that religion +with all your heart. Hold it not with a shallow +mind, with mere guess-work, or because of its general +popularity, or from mere traditional saying that it is +the <i>custom</i> held from time immemorial; and do not +hold a religion that you have not good evidence is +true, and then frighten men's fears, and flatter their +hopes by it. Do not be frightened and astonished at +diverse events (fictitious wonders) and hold to and +follow them. When you shall have obtained a refuge, +a religious faith that is beautiful and good and +suitable, hold to it with great joy, and follow its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 70]</a></span> +teachings, and it will be a cause of prosperity to each +one of you."</p> + +<p>The contrast between the state of things represented +by this document and that exemplified by the +story of the treatment of the captive king of Laos is +sufficiently striking. The man who tortured the +king of Laos was the uncle of the young man who is +now on the throne. But between the two—covering +the period from the year 1851 to the year 1868—was +a king whose character and history entitle +him to be ranked among the most extraordinary and +admirable rulers of modern times. To this man and +his younger brother, who reigned conjointly as first +and second kings, is due the honor of giving to their +realm an honorable place among the nations of the +world and putting it in the van of progress among +the kingdoms of the far East.</p> + +<p>It seemed at first a misfortune that these two brothers +should have been so long kept out of their +rightful dignities by their comparatively coarse and +cruel half-brother, who usurped the throne. But it +proved in the end, both for them and for the world, +a great advantage. The usurper, when he seized the +throne, promised to hold it for a few years only and +to restore it to its rightful heirs as soon as their +growth in years and in experience should fit them to +govern. So far was he, however, from making good +his words that he had made all his arrangements to +put his own son in his place. Having held the +sovereignty for twenty-seven years the desire to perpetuate +it in his own line was natural. And as he +had about seven hundred wives there was no lack of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 71]</a></span> +children from among whom he might choose his heir. +In 1851 he was taken sick, and it was evident that +his end was at hand. At this crisis, says Sir John +Bowring:</p> + +<p>"The energy of the Praklang (the present Kalahom) +saved the nation from the miseries of disputed +succession. The Praklang's eldest son, Phya Sisuriwong, +held the fortresses of Paknam, and, with the +aid of his powerful family, placed Chau Fa Tai upon +the throne, and was made Kalahom, being at once +advanced ten steps and to the position the most influential +in the kingdom, that of prime-minister. +On March 18, 1851, the Praklang proposed to the +council of nobles the nomination of Chau Fa Tai; +he held bold language, carried his point, and the next +day communicated the proceedings to the elected +sovereign in his <i>wat</i> (or temple), everybody, even +rival candidates, having given in their adhesion. +By general consent, Chau Fa Noi was raised to the +rank of wangna, or second king, having, it is said, +one third of the revenues with a separate palace and +establishment."</p> + +<p>It is difficult to determine how the custom of two +kings reigning at once could have originated, and +how far back in the history of Siam it is to be traced. +It is possible that it originated with the present +dynasty, for the founder of this dynasty had a +brother with whom he was closely intimate, who +shared his fortunes when they were generals together +under Phya Tak, and who might naturally enough +have become his colleague when he ascended the +throne. Under the reign of the uncle of the present<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 72]</a></span> +king the office of the second king was abolished. It +was restored again at the next succession, but was +finally abolished upon the death of King George in +1885.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 73]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2> + +<h3>FIRST IMPRESSIONS</h3> + + +<p>The entrance into the kingdom of Siam by the +great river, which divides the country east and +west, brings the traveller at once into all the richness +and variety of tropical nature, and is well suited to +produce an impression of the singular beauty and +the vast resources of the "Land of the White Elephant." +For this is the name which may properly +be given to the kingdom since the flag of the +country has been established. A very curious flag it +makes—the white elephant on a red field—and very +oddly it must look if ever it is necessary to hoist it +upside down as a signal of distress; a signal eloquent +indeed, for anything more helpless and distressing +than this clumpsy quadruped in that position can +hardly be imagined.</p> + +<p>The editor of this volume, who visited Siam in one +of the vessels of the United States East India Squadron +in 1857, and who was present at the exchange of +ratifications of the treaty made in the previous year, +has elsewhere described<a name="FNanchor_A_6" id="FNanchor_A_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_6" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> the impressions which were +made upon him at his first entrance into the country +of the Meinam, and reproduces his own narrative,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 74]</a></span> +substantially unaltered, in this and the two following +chapters.</p> + +<p>There is enough to see in Siam, if only it could be +described. But nothing is harder than to convey in +words the indescribable charm of tropical life and +scenery; and it was in this, in great measure, that +the enjoyment of my month in Bangkok consisted. +Always behind the events which occupied us day by +day, and behind the men and things with which we +had to do, was the pervading charm of tropical nature—of +soft warm sky, with floating fleecy clouds +and infinite depths of blue beyond them; of golden +sunlight flooding everything by day; and when the +day dies its sudden death, of mellow moonlight, as if +from a perennial harvest moon; and of stars, that do +not glitter with a hard and pointed radiance, as here, +but melt through the mild air with glory in which +there is never any thought of "twinkling." Always +there was the teeming life of land and sea, of jungle +and of river; and the varying influence of fruitful +nature, captivating every sense with sweet allurement. +Read Mr. Tennyson's "Lotos Eaters" if you +want to know what the tropics are.</p> + +<p>It was drawing toward the middle of a splendid +night in May, when I found myself among the "palms +and temples" of this singular city. It had been a tiresome +journey from the mouth of the river, rowing +more than a score of miles against the rapid current; +and, if there could be monotony in the wonderful variety +and richness of tropical nature, it might have +been a monotonous journey. But the wealth of foliage, +rising sometimes in the feathery plumes of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 75]</a></span> +tall areca palm—of all palms the stateliest—or drooping +sometimes in heavier and larger masses, crowding +to the water's edge in dense, impenetrable jungle, +or checked here and there by the toil of cultivation, +or cleared for dwellings—was a constant wonder and +delight. Now and then we passed a bamboo house, +raised high on poles above the ground, and looking +like some monstrous bird's nest in the trees; but they +were featherless bipeds who peered out from the +branches at the passing boats; and not bird's notes +but children's voices, that clamored in wonder or +were silenced in awe at the white-faced strangers. +Sometimes the white walls and shining roofs of temples +gleamed through the dark verdure, suggesting +the architectural magnificence and beauty which the +statelier temples of the city would exhibit. Bald-headed +priests, in orange-colored scarfs, came out to +watch us. Superb white pelicans stood pensive by the +riverside, or snatched at fish, or sailed on snowy +wings with quiet majesty across the stream. Or maybe +some inquiring monkey, gray-whiskered, leading +two or three of tenderer years, as if he were their +tutor, on a naturalist's expedition through the jungle, +stops to look at us with peculiar curiosity, as at some +singular and unexpected specimen, but stands ready +to dodge behind the roots of mangrove trees in case +of danger.</p> + +<p>It will be fortunate for the traveller if, while he +is rowing up the river, night shall overtake him; for, +beside the splendor of the tropic stars above him, there +will be rival splendors all about him. The night came +down on me with startling suddenness—for "there is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 76]</a></span> +no twilight within the courts of the sun"—just as I +was waiting at the mouth of a cross-cut canal, by +which, when the tide should rise a little, I might avoid +a long bend in the river. By the time the tide had +risen the night had fallen thick and dark, and the +dense shade of the jungle, through which the canal led +us, made it yet thicker and more dark. Great fern +leaves, ten or fifteen feet in height, grew dense on +either side, and fanlike, almost met over our heads. +Above them stretched the forest trees. Among them +rose the noise of night-birds, lizards, trumpeter-beetles, +and creatures countless and various, making a +hoarse din, which, if it was not musical, at least was +lively. But the jungle, with its darkness and its din, +had such a beauty as I never have seen equalled, when +its myriad fire-flies sparkled thick on every side. I +had seen fire-flies before, and had heard of them, but +I had never seen or heard, nor have I since then ever +seen or heard, of anything like these. The peculiarity +of them was—not that they were so many, though +they were innumerable—not that they were so large, +though they were very large—but that they clustered, +as by a preconcerted plan, on certain kinds of trees, +avoiding carefully all other kinds, and then, as if by +signal from some director of the spectacle, they all +sent forth their light at once, at simultaneous and exact +intervals, so that the whole tree seemed to flash +and palpitate with living light. Imagine it. At one +instant was blackness of darkness and the croaking +jungle. Then suddenly on every side flashed out these +fiery trees, the form of each, from topmost twig to +outmost bough, set thick with flaming jewels. It was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 77]</a></span> +easy to imagine at the top of each some big white-waistcoated +fire-fly, with the baton of director, ordering +the movements of the rest.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus5" id="illus5"></a><img src="images/illus005.jpg" width="320" height="204" alt="GENERAL VIEW OF BANGKOK." title="" /> +<span class="caption">GENERAL VIEW OF BANGKOK.</span> +</div> + +<p>This peculiarity of the Siamese fire-flies, or, as our +popular term graphically describes them, the tropical +"lightning-bugs" was noticed as long ago as the time +of old Kämpfer, who speaks concerning them as +follows:</p> + +<p>"The glow-worms settle on some trees like a fiery +cloud, with this surprising circumstance, that a whole +swarm of these insects, having taken possession of +one tree and spread themselves over its branches, +sometimes hide their light all at once, and a moment +after make it appear again, with the utmost regularity +and exactness, as if they were in perpetual systole +and diastole." The lapse of centuries has wrought no +change in the rhythmic regularity of this surprising exhibition. +Out upon the river once again; the houses +on the shore began to be more numerous, and presently +began to crowd together in continuous succession; +and from some of them the sound of merry laughter +and of pleasant music issuing proved that not all the +citizens of Bangkok were asleep. The soft light of +the cocoanut-oil lamps supplied the place of the illumination +of the fire-flies. Boats, large and small, were +passing swiftly up and down the stream; now and +then the tall masts of some merchant ships loomed +indistinctly large through the darkness. I could +dimly see high towers of temples and broad roofs of +palaces; and I stepped on shore, at last, on the</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Dark shore, just seen that it was rich,"<br /></span> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 78]</a></span></div></div> + +<p>with a half-bewildered feeling that I was passing +through some pleasant dream of the Arabian Nights, +from which I should presently awake.</p> + +<p>Even when the flooding sunlight of the tropical +morning poured in through the windows, it was difficult +for me to realize that I was not in some unreal +land. There was a sweet, low sound of music filling +the air with its clear, liquid tones. And, joining +with the music, was the pleasant ringing of a multitude +of little bells, ringing I knew not where. It +seemed as if the air was full of them. Close by, on +one side, was the palace of a prince, and somewhere +in his house or in his courtyard there were people +playing upon instruments of music, made of smoothed +and hollowed bamboo. But no human hands were +busy with the bells. Within a stone's throw of my +window rose the shining tower of the most splendid +temple in Bangkok. From its broad octagonal base +to the tip of its splendid spire it must measure, I +should think, a good deal more than two hundred +feet, and every inch of its irregular surface glitters +with ornament. Curiously wrought into it are forms +of men and birds, and grotesque beasts that seem, +with outstretched hands or claws, to hold it up. +Two thirds of the way from the base, stand, I remember, +four white elephants, wrought in shining +porcelain, facing one each way toward four points of +the compass. From the rounded summit rises, like +a needle, a sharp spire. This was the temple tower, +and all over the magnificent pile, from the tip of the +highest needle to the base, from every prominent +angle and projection, there were hanging sweet-toned<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 79]</a></span> +bells, with little gilded fans attached to their tongues; +so swinging that they were vocal in the slightest +breeze. Here was where the music came from. +Even as I stood and looked I caught the breezes at +it. Coming from the unseen distance, rippling the +smooth surface of the swift river, where busy oars +and carved or gilded prows of many boats were +flashing in the sun, sweeping with pleasant whispers +through the varied richness of the tropical foliage, +stealing the perfume of its blossoms and the odor of +its fruits, they caught the shining bells of this great +tower, and tossed the music out of them. Was I +awake I wondered, or was it some dream of Oriental +beauty that would presently vanish?</p> + +<p>Something like this Æolian tower there must be +in the adjacent kingdom of Birmah, where the +graceful pen of Mrs. Judson has put the scene in +verse:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i6">"On the pagoda spire<br /></span> +<span class="i8">The bells are swinging,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Their little golden circlets in a flutter<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With tales the wooing winds have dared to utter;<br /></span> +<span class="i6">Till all are ringing,<br /></span> +<span class="i8">As if a choir<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of golden-nested birds in heaven were singing;<br /></span> +<span class="i6">And with a lulling sound<br /></span> +<span class="i6">The music floats around<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And drops like balm into the drowsy ear."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>The verse breathes the spirit, and gives almost the +very sound, of the bewitching tropical scene on +which I looked, and out of which "the music of the +bells" was blown to me on my first morning in Bangkok.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 80]</a></span></p> + +<p>No doubt my first impressions (which I have given +with some detail, and with all the directness of "that +right line I") were fortunate. But three or four +weeks of Bangkok could not wear them off or counteract +them. It is the Venice of the East. Its highway +is the river, and canals are its by-ways. There +are streets, as in Venice, used by pedestrians; but +the travel and the carriage is, for the most part, done +by boats. Only, in place of the verdureless margin +of the watery streets, which gives to Venice, with +all its beauty, a half-dreary aspect, there is greenest +foliage shadowing the water, and mingling with +the dwellings, and palaces, and temples on the shore; +and instead of the funeral gondolas of monotonous +color, with solitary <i>gondoliers</i>, are boats of every size +and variety, paddled sometimes by one, sometimes by +a score of oarsmen. Some of the bamboo dwellings +of the humbler classes are built, literally, on the +river, floating on rafts, a block of them together, or +raised on poles above the surface of the water. The +shops expose their goods upon the river side, and +wait for custom from the thronging boats. The +temples and the palaces must stand, of course, on +solid ground, but the river is the great Broadway, +and houses crowd upon the channel of the boats, and +boats bump the houses. It is a picturesque and busy +scene on which you look as you pass on amid the +throng. Royal boats, with carved and gilded prows, +with shouting oarsmen, rush by you, hurrying with +the rapid current; or the little skiff of some small +pedler, with his assortment of various "notions," +paddling and peddling by turns, is dexterously urged<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 81]</a></span> +along its way. Amid all this motion and traffic is +that charm of silence which makes Venice so dream-like. +No rumble of wheels nor clatter of hoofs disturbs +you. Only the sound of voices, softened as it +comes along the smooth water, or the music of a +palace, or the tinkling of the bells of a pagoda, break +the stillness. It is a beautiful Broadway, without +the Broadway roar and din.</p> + +<p>Of course there is not, in this tropical Venice, +anything to equal the incomparable architectural +beauty of the Adriatic city. And yet it seemed to +me that the architecture of Siam was in very perfect +accord with all its natural surroundings. In all parts +of the city you may find the "wats" or temples. +When we started on our first day's sight-seeing, and +told the old Portuguese half-breed, who acted as our +interpreter, to take us to a "wat," he asked, with a +pun of embarrassment, "What wat?" Of course we +must begin with the pagoda of innumerable bells, +but where to stop we knew not. Temple after +temple waited to be seen. Through long, dim corridors, +crowded with rows of solemn idols carved and +gilded; through spacious open courts paved with +large slabs of marble, and filled with graceful spires +or shafts or columns; along white walls with gilded +eaves and cornices; beneath arches lined with gold, +to sacred doors of ebony, or pearly gates of iridescent +beauty; amid grotesque stone statues, or queer paintings +of the Buddhist <i>inferno</i> (strangely similar to +the mediæval Christian representations of the same +subject), you may wander till you are tired. You +may happen to come upon the <i>bonzes</i> at their devo<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 82]</a></span>tions, +or you may have the silent temples to yourself. +In one of them you will find that clumsy, colossal +image, too big to stand, and built recumbent, therefore—a +great mass of heavy masonry, covered thick +with gilding, and measuring a hundred and fifty feet +in length. If you could stand him up, his foot would +cover eighteen feet—an elephantine monster. But +the roofs, of glazed tiles, with a centre of dark green +and with a golden margin, are the greatest charm of +the temples. Climb some pagoda and look down +upon the city, and, on every side, among the +"breadths of tropic shade and palms in cluster," you +will see the white walls roofed with shining green +and gold, and surmounted by their gilded towers and +spires. Like the temples are the palaces, but less +splendid. But everywhere, whether in temples or +palaces, you will find, not rude, barbaric tawdriness +of style, but elegance and skill of which the Western +nations might be proud. Good taste, and a quick +sense of beauty, and the ability to express them in +their handiwork, all these are constantly indicated in +the architecture of this people. And they make the +city one of almost unrivalled picturesqueness to the +traveller, who glides from river to canal and from +canal to river, under the shadow of the temple +towers, and among the shining walls of stately palaces.</p> + +<p>Where so much wealth is lavished on the public +buildings there must be great resources to draw +from; and, indeed, the mineral wealth of the country +appears at almost every turn. Precious stones +and the precious metals seem as frequent as the fire<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 83]</a></span>-flies +in the jungle. Sometimes, as in the silver currency, +there is an absence of all workmanship; the +coinage being little lumps of silver, rudely rolled together +in a mass and stamped. But sometimes, as +in the teapots, betel-nut boxes, cigar-holders, with +which the noblemen are provided when they go +abroad, you will see workmanship of no mean skill. +Often these vessels are elegantly wrought. Sometimes +they are studded with jewels, sometimes they +are beautifully enamelled in divers colors. Once I +called upon a noble, who brought out a large assortment +of uncut stones—some of them of great value—and +passed them to me as one would a snuff-box, not +content till I had helped myself. More than once I +have seen children of the nobles with no covering at +all, except the strings of jewelled gold that hung, in +barbarous opulence, upon their necks and shoulders; +but there was wealth enough in these to fit the little +fellows with a very large assortment of most fashionable +and Christian apparel, even at the ruinous rate +of tailors' prices at the present day. To go about +among these urchins, and among the houses of the +nobles and the king's palaces, gives one the half-bewildered +and half-covetous feeling that it gives to be +conducted by polite but scrutinizing attendants +through a mint. Surely we had come at last to</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Where the gorgeous East, with richest hand,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Showers on her kings barbaric pearl and gold."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Of course, of all this wealth the king's share was +the lion's share.</p> + +<p>Then, as for vegetable wealth, I do not know that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 84]</a></span> +there is anywhere a richer valley in the world than +the valley of the Meinam. All the productions of +the teeming tropics may grow luxuriantly here. +There was rice enough in Siam the year before my +visit to feed the native population and to supply the +failure of the rice crop in Southern China, preventing +thus the havoc of a famine in that crowded empire, +and making fortunes for the merchants who +were prompt enough to carry it from Bangkok to +Canton. Cotton grows freely beneath that burning +sky. Sugar, pepper, and all spices may be had with +easy cultivation. There is gutta-percha in the forests. +There are dye-stuffs and medicines in the jungles. +The painter gets his gamboge, as its name +implies, from Cambodia, which is tributary to their +majesties of Bangkok. As for the fruits, I cannot +number them nor describe them. The mangostene, +most delicate and most rare of them all, grows only +in Siam, and in the lands adjacent to the Straits of +Sunda and Malacca. Some things we may have +which Siam cannot have, but the mangostene is her +peculiar glory, and she will not lend it. Beautiful to +sight, smell, and taste, it hangs among its glossy +leaves, the prince of fruits. Cut through the shaded +green and purple of the rind, and lift the upper half +as if it were the cover of a dish, and the pulp of half +transparent, creamy whiteness stands in segments +like an orange, but rimmed with darkest crimson +where the rind was cut. It looks too beautiful to eat; +but how the rarest, sweetest essence of the tropics +seems to dwell in it as it melts to your delighted +taste!<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 85]</a></span></p> + +<p>This is the Land of the White Elephant, so singular, +so rich, so beautiful; but we need also to tell what +manner of men the people are who live beneath the +standard of the elephant, or what kings and nobles +govern them.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 86]</a></span></p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_6" id="Footnote_A_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_6"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> Hours at Home, vol. iv., pp. 464, 531; vol. v., p. 66.</p></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII.</h2> + +<h3>A ROYAL GENTLEMAN</h3> + + +<p>Soon after arriving in Bangkok, in 1857, on the +occasion referred to in the last chapter, the +present editor was invited to an interview with the second +king. The account of that interview was written +while it was still a matter of recent memory; +and it seems better to reproduce the story, for the +sake of the freshness with which the incidents described +in it were recorded, rather than to attempt +the rewriting of it. It is a characteristic picture of +an extraordinary man, and of the manners and customs +which still prevail for the most part (with some +important exceptions) at the court of Siam. This +king was the grandson of the founder of the present +dynasty, and was the junior of the two princes who, +by the usurpation of their half-brother, were, for +twenty-seven years, kept out of their birthright. +Even so long ago as 1837, an intelligent traveller +who visited Siam said concerning him: "No man in +the kingdom is so qualified to govern well. His naturally +fine mind is enlarged and improved by intercourse +with foreigners, by the perusal of English +works, by studying Euclid and Newton, by freeing +himself from a bigoted attachment to Buddhism, by +candidly recognizing our superiority and a readiness<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 87]</a></span> +to adopt our arts. He understands the use of the sextant +and chronometer, and was anxious for the latest +Nautical Almanac, which I promised to send him. His +little daughters, accustomed to the sight of foreigners, +so far from showing any signs of fear, always came to +sit upon my lap, though the yellow cosmetic on their +limbs was sure to be transferred in part to my dress. +One of them took pride in repeating to me a few +words of English, and the other took care to display +her power of projecting the elbow forward,"—an accomplishment +upon which the ladies of Siam still +pride themselves, and in which they are extraordinarily +expert.</p> + +<p>This was in 1837. How greatly the character of +the second king had developed since that time will +appear from the editor's description, which refers, as +has been said, to the year 1857.</p> + +<hr style='width: 45%;' /> + +<p>One king at a time is commonly thought to be as +much as any kingdom has need of. Indeed, there +seems to be a growing tendency among the nations +of the earth to think that even one is one too many, +and the popular prejudice is setting very strongly in +favor of none at all. Nevertheless, there are in +Siam (or rather, until very recently, there were) two +kings reigning together, each with the full rank and +title of king, and with no rivalry between them. It +is probable that, originally, a monarchy was the +normal condition of the government, and that the +duarchy is of comparatively modern origin. But it +is certain that when I was in the Land of the White +Elephant there was a kind of Siamese-twin arrange<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 88]</a></span>ment +in the kingdom. The two kings were brothers, +and though, as has been said, their rank and title +were equal, the real power and work of government +rested on the shoulders of the elder of the two, the +other keeping discreetly and contentedly in the background. +Both were men of noteworthy ability, and +deserve to be known and honored for their personal +attainments in civilization, and for what they have +done to lift their kingdom out of degradation and +barbarism, and to welcome and promote intercourse +between it and the Western nations. When we remember +the obstinacy of Oriental prejudice against +innovation, and the persistency with which the people +wrap themselves in their conceit as in a garment, +we shall the better appreciate the state of things at +the court of the White Elephant, which I am about +to describe.</p> + +<p>The second king was a man of social disposition, +and fond of the company of strangers. It was, +doubtless, owing to this fact that when he heard +that there was an American man-of-war at the mouth +of the river, and that an officer had been sent up to +Bangkok to report her arrival, he sent a messenger +and a boat with the request that I would come and +see him. It did not take long for the score of oarsmen, +with the short, quick motion of their paddles, +and the grunting energy with which they plied them, +to bring the boat up to the palace gates. For, of +course, the palace has a water-front, and one may +pass at one step from among the thronging boats of +the river into the quiet seclusion of the king's inclosure. +Passing through a lofty gateway at the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 89]</a></span> +water's edge, we came to a large and stately temple, +about which were priests in orange-colored drapery +trying to screen their shining skulls from the fierce +heat of the morning sun by means of fans. I used +to feel sorry for the priests. Ecclesiastical law and +usage compel them to shave every sign of hair from +their heads. Not even a tail is left to them, but +they are as bald as beetles. And when (as in Siam) +the sun's rays beat with almost perpendicular directness, +it is no trifling thing to be deprived of even the +natural protection with which the skull is provided. +Whatever can be done with fans toward shielding +themselves they do; and, also, they can, by the +same means, shut off their eyes from beholding vanity, +so that a fan is a most important part of the +sacerdotal outfit. Leaving the priests to group themselves +in idle picturesqueness near the royal temple, +we pass on by storehouses and treasuries and stables +of the royal elephants, between sentries standing +guard with European arms and in a semi-European +uniform, to the armory, where I was to wait until the +king was ready.</p> + +<p>The messenger who had hitherto conducted me +was known among the foreign residents of Bangkok +as "Captain Dick"—a talkative person, with a +shrewd eye to his own advancement. He spoke +good English, and a good deal of it, and suggested, I +remember, certain ways in which it would be possible +for me to further his interests with the king. He +had been at sea, and had perhaps commanded one of +the king's sea-going vessels—his "captaincy" being +rather maritime than military. He was quite dis<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 90]</a></span>posed +to join the embassy, which was at that time +getting ready to be sent to Great Britain. He mentioned, +incidentally, that a few of the naval buttons +on my uniform would be a highly acceptable gift for +me to offer him. The confidence and self-assurance +with which he had borne himself, however, began +perceptibly to wilt as we drew a little nearer to the +august presence of royalty. And, at the armory, he +made me over, in quite an humble manner, to the +king's oldest son, who was to take me to his father. +As I shook hands with the tall, manly, handsome +youth who was waiting for me, I thought him worthy +of his princely station. Kings' sons are not always +the heirs of kingly beauty or of kingly virtues; +but here was one who had, at least, the physical endowments +which should fit him for the dignity to +which he was born. He was almost the only man I +saw in Siam whose teeth were not blackened nor his +mouth distorted by the chewing of the betel-nut. +For the betel-nut is in Siam what the tobacco-cud is +in America, only it is not, I believe, quite so injurious +to the chewer as the tobacco; while, on the other +hand, its use is a little more universal. As between +the two, for general offensiveness, I do not know that +there is anything to choose.</p> + +<p>The second king, seeking a significant name for his +son, chose one which had been borne, not by an +Asiatic, not by an European, but by the greatest of +Americans—George Washington. "What's in a +name?" It may provoke a smile at first, that such +a use should be made of the name of Washington, as +if it were the whim of an ignorant and half-savage<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 91]</a></span> +king. But when it shall appear, as I shall make it +appear before I have finished, that the Siamese king +understood and appreciated the character of the great +man after whom he wished his son to be called, I +think that no American will be content with laughing +at him. I own that it moved me with something +more than merely patriotic pride to hear the name of +Washington honored in the remotest corner of the old +world. It seemed to me significant of great progress +already achieved toward Christian civilization, and +prophetic of yet greater things to come.</p> + +<p>But as the Prince George Washington walked on +with me, and I revolved these great things in my +mind, another turn was given to my thoughts. For +when we had gone through a pleasant, shady court, +and had come to the top of a flight of marble steps +which took us to the door of the king's house (a +plain and pleasant edifice of mason-work, like the +residence of some private gentleman of wealth in our +own country), I suddenly missed the young man from +my side, and turned to look for him. What change +had come over him! The man had been transformed +into a reptile. The tall and graceful youth, princely +in look and bearing, was down on all his marrow-bones, +bending his head until it almost touched the +pavement of the portico, and, crawling slowly toward +the door, conducted me with reverent signs and +whispers toward the king, his father, whom I saw +coming to meet us.</p> + +<p>This was the other side of the picture. And I +draw out the incident in detail because it is characteristic +of the strange conflict between the old barbarism<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 92]</a></span> +and the new enlightenment which meets one at every +turn in the Land of the White Elephant. There +are two tides—one is going out, the ebb-tide of ignorance, +of darkness, of despotic power; and one is +coming in—the flood-tide of knowledge and liberty +and all Christian grace. And, as in the whirl of +waters where two currents meet, one never knows +which way his boat may head, so sometimes the drift +of things is backward toward the Orient, and sometimes +forward, westward, as the "star of empire" +moves. Each rank has, or until quite recently had, +some who crawl like crocodiles beneath it, and is in +its turn compelled to crawl before the higher. Nor +are the members of a nobleman's family exempt. I +was introduced once to one of the wives of a fat, +good-natured prince (a half-brother of the two kings), +who was crawling around, with her head downward, +on the floor. I offered my hand as politely as was +possible, and she shuffled up to shake it, and then +shuffled off again into a corner. It was very queer—more +so than when I shake hands with Trip, the +spaniel, for then we both of us understand that it is +a joke—but here it was a solemn and ceremonious +act of politeness, and had to be performed with a +straight face. The good lady has her revenge, however, +and must enjoy it, when she sees her fat husband, +clumsy, and almost as heavy as an elephant, +get down on his hands and knees, as he has to, in the +presence of his majesty the king. I have been told +that, when the Siamese embassy to Great Britain +was presented to the queen, before anybody knew +what they were about, the ambassadors were down on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 93]</a></span> +all fours, at the entrance of the audience chamber, +and insisted on crawling like mud-turtles into her +majesty's presence. For, consistently enough, the +court of Siam requires of foreigners only what etiquette +requires in the presence of the king or president +of their own country—but when its representatives +are sent to foreign courts they carry their own +usage with them. I felt a pardonable pride, and a +little kindling of the "<i>Civis-Romanus-sum</i>" spirit, +and an appreciable stiffening of the spinal column as +I walked straight forward, while Prince George +Washington crawled beside me. Blessed was the +man who walked uprightly.</p> + +<p>Halleck, the sprightliest poet of his native State, +in verse which will be always dear to all who love +that good old commonwealth, has told us how a true +son of Connecticut</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Would shake hands with a king upon his throne<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And think it kindness to his majesty."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Of course, then, as the king came toward the portico +and met us at the door, that was the thing to do, +being also the etiquette at the court of James Buchanan, +who then reigned at Washington. But not +even that venerable functionary, whose manners I +have been given to understand were one of his strong +points, could have welcomed a guest with more gentlemanly +politeness than that with which this king +of a barbarous people welcomed me. He spoke good +English, and spoke it fluently, and knew how, with +gentlemanly tact, to put his visitor straightway at +his ease. It was hard to believe that I was in a re<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 94]</a></span>mote +and almost unknown corner of the old world, +and not in the new. The conversation was such as +might take place between two gentlemen in a New +York parlor. On every side were evidences of an +intelligent and cultivated taste. The room in which +we sat was decorated with engravings, maps, busts, +statuettes. The book-cases were filled with well-selected +volumes, handsomely bound. There were, +I remember, various encyclopædias and scientific +works. There was the Abbottsford edition of the +Waverly novels, and a bust of the great Sir Walter +overhead. There were some religious works, the +gift, probably, of the American missionaries. And, +as if his majesty had seen the advertisements in the +newspapers which implore a discriminating public to +"get the best," there were two copies of Webster's +quarto dictionary, unabridged. Moreover, the king +called my particular attention to these two volumes, +and, as if to settle the war of the dictionaries by an +authoritative opinion, said: "I like it very much; I +think it the best dictionary, better than any English." +Accordingly the publishers are hereby authorized to +insert the recommendation of the second king of +Siam, with the complimentary notices of other distinguished +critics, in their published advertisements. +On the table lay a recent copy of the London <i>Illustrated +News</i>, to which the king is a regular subscriber, +and of which he is an interested reader. +There was in it, I remember, a description, with diagrams, +of some new invention of fire-arms, concerning +which he wished my opinion, but he knew much +more about it than I did. Some reference was made<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 95]</a></span> +to my native city, and I rose to show on the map, +which hung before me, where it was situated, but I +found that he knew it very well, and especially that +"they made plenty of guns there." For guns and +military affairs he had a great liking, and indeed for +all sorts of science. He was expert in the use of +quadrant and sextant, and could take a lunar observation +and work it out with accuracy. He had his +army, distinct from the first king's soldiers, disciplined +and drilled according to European tactics. +Their orders were given in English and were obeyed +with great alacrity. He had a band of Siamese +musicians who performed on European instruments, +though I am bound to say that their performance +was characterized by force rather than by harmony. +He made them play "Yankee Doodle," and "Hail +Columbia," but if I enjoyed it, it was rather with a +patriotic than with a musical enthusiasm. When +they played their own rude music it was vastly better. +But the imperfections of the band were of very +small importance compared with the good will which +had prompted the king to make them learn the +American national airs. That good will expressed +itself in various ways. His majesty, who wrote an +elegant autograph, kept up a correspondence with +the captain of our ship for a long time after our +visit. And when the captain, a few years later, had +risen to the rank of Admiral, and had made the +name of Foote illustrious in his country's annals, the +king wrote to him, expressing his deep interest in +the progress of our conflict with rebellion, and his +sincere desire for the success of our national cause.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 96]</a></span> +When kings and peoples, bound to us by the ties of +language and kindred and religion, misunderstood us, +and gave words of sneering censure, or else no words +at all, as we were fighting with the dragon, this king +of an Asiatic people, of different speech, of different +race, of different religion, found words of intelligent +and appreciative cheer for us. He had observed the +course of our history, the growth of our nation, the +principles of our government. And though we knew +very little about him and his people, he was thoroughly +informed concerning us. So that, as I talked +with him, and saw the refinement and good taste +which displayed itself in his manners and in his +dwelling, and the minute knowledge of affairs which +his conversation showed, I began to wonder on what +subjects I should find him ignorant. Once or twice I +involuntarily expressed my amazement, and provoked +a good-natured laugh from the king, who seemed +quite to understand it.</p> + +<p>And yet this gentlemanly and well-informed man +was black. And he wore no trousers—the mention +of which fact reminds me that I have not told what +he did wear. First of all, he wore very little hair on +his head, conforming in this respect to the universal +fashion among his countrymen, and shaving all but a +narrow ridge of hair between the crown and the forehead; +and this is cut off at the height of an inch, so +that it stands straight up, looking for all the world +like a stiff blacking-brush, only it can never be +needed for such a purpose, because no Siamese wears +shoes. I think the first king, when we called upon +him, had on a pair of slippers, but the second king,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 97]</a></span> +if I remember, was barefooted—certainly he was +barelegged. Wound about his waist and hanging to +his knees was a scarf of rich, heavy silk, which one +garment is the entire costume of ordinary life in +Siam. The common people, of course, must have it +of cheap cotton, but the nobles wear silk of beautiful +quality and pattern, and when this is wound around +the waist so that the folds hang to the knees, and the +ends are thrown over the shoulders, they are dressed. +On state occasions something is added to this costume, +and on all occasions there will be likely to be a +wonderful display of jewels and of gold. So now, +the light would flash once in a while from the superb +diamond finger-rings which the king whom I am describing +wore. He wore above his scarf a loose sack +of dark-blue cloth, fastened with a few gold buttons, +with a single band of gold-lace on the sleeves, and an +inch or two of gold-lace on the collar. Half European, +half Oriental in his dress, he had combined the +two styles with more of good taste than one could +have expected. It was characteristic of that transition +from barbarism to civilization upon which his +kingdom is just entering.</p> + +<p>The same process of transition and the same contrast +between the two points of the transition was +expressed in other ways. If it be true, for example, +that cookery is a good index of civilization, there +came in presently most civilized cakes and tea and +coffee, as nicely made as if, by some mysterious +dumb-waiter they had come down fresh from the +restaurants of Paris. The king made the tea and +coffee with his own hand, and with the conventional<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 98]</a></span> +inquiry, "Cream and sugar?"—and the refreshments +were served in handsome dishes of solid silver. Besides, +I might have smoked a pipe, quite wonderful +by reason of the richness of its ornament, or drunk +his majesty's health in choice wines of his own importation. +The refreshment which was furnished was +elegant and ample, and, if taken as an index of civilization, +indicated that the court of the White Elephant +need not be ashamed, even by the side of some +that made much higher claims. But, on the other +hand, while the lunch was going on, Prince George +Washington and a great tawny dog who answered to +the name of "Watch," lay prostrate with obsequious +reverence on the floor, receiving with great respect +and gratitude any word that the king might deign to +fling to them. One or two noblemen were also present +in the same attitude. Presently there came into +the room one of the king's little children, a beautiful +boy of three or four years old, who dropped on his +knees and lifted his joined hands in reverence toward +his father. It was quite the attitude that one sees in +some of the pictures of "little Samuel,"—as if the +king were more than man. After the child—whose +sole costume consisted of a string or two of gold +beads, jewelled, and perhaps a pair of bracelets—crawled +his mother, who joined the group of prostrate +subjects. The little boy, by reason of his tender +age, was allowed more liberty than the others, +and moved about almost as unembarrassed as the big +dog "Watch;" but when he grows older he will +humble himself like the others. To see men and +women degraded literally to a level with the beasts<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 99]</a></span> +that perish was all the more strange and sad by contrast +with the civilization which was shown in the +conversation and manners of the king, and in all the +furniture of his palace. I half expected to see the +portrait of the real George Washington on the wall +blush with shame and indignation as it looked down +on the reptile attitude of his namesake; and I felt a +sensation of relief when, at last, it became time for +me to leave, and the young prince, crawling after me +until we reached the steps, was once more on his +legs.</p> + +<p>But it seemed to me then, and a subsequent interview +with the king confirmed the feeling, that I had +been in one of the most remarkable palaces, and with +one of the most remarkable men, in the world. +Twice afterward I saw him; once when our captain +and a detachment of the officers of the ship waited +upon him by his invitation, and spent a most agreeable +evening, socially, enlivened with music by the +band, and broadsword and musket exercise by a +squad of troops, and refreshed by a handsome supper +in the dining-room of the palace, on the walls of +which hung engravings of all the American Presidents +from Washington down to Jackson. I do not +know who enjoyed the evening most; the king, to +whom the companionship of educated foreigners was +a luxury which he could not always command, or we, +to whom the strange spectacle which I have been +trying to describe was one at which the more we +gazed the more "the wonder grew." Indeed, we felt +so pleasantly at home that when we said good-by, +and left the pleasant, comfortable, home-like rooms<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 100]</a></span> +in which we had been sitting, the piano and the musical +boxes, the cheery hospitality of our good-natured +host, and dropped down the river to the narrow +quarters of our ship, it was with something of the +sadness which attends the parting from one's native +land, when the loved faces on the shore grow dim +and disappear, and the swelling canvas overhead fills +and stiffens with the seaward wind.</p> + +<p>We had an opportunity of repaying something of +the king's politeness, for, in response to an invitation +of the captain, he did what no king had ever done +before—came down the river and spent an hour or +two on board our ship (the U. S. sloop-of-war Portsmouth, +Captain A. H. Foote commanding), and was +received with royal honors, even to the manning of +the yards. We made him heartily welcome, and the +captain gave the handsomest dinner which the skill +of Johnson, his experienced steward, could prepare—that +venerable colored person recognizing the importance +of the occasion, and aware that he might never +again be called upon to get a dinner for a king. The +captain did not fail to ask a blessing as they drew +about the table, taking pains to explain to his guest +the sacred significance of that Christian act—for it +was at such a time as this, especially, that the good +admiral was wont to show the colors of the "King +Eternal" whom he served. The royal party carefully +inspected the whole ship, with shrewd and intelligent +curiosity, and before they left we hoisted the white +elephant at the fore, and our big guns roared forth +the king's salute. Nor was one visit enough, but the +next day he came again, retiring for the night to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 101]</a></span> +little steamer on which he had made the journey +down the river from Bangkok. It was a little fussy +thing, just big enough to hold its machinery and to +carry its paddle-wheels, but was dignified with the +imposing name of "Royal Seat of Siamese Steam +Force." It was made in the United States, and put +together by one of the American missionaries in +Bangkok. It was then the only steamer in the +Siamese waters, but it proved to be the pioneer of +many others that have made the Meinam River lively +with the stir of an increasing commerce.</p> + +<p>At the death of the second king, in 1866, his elder +brother issued a royal document containing a biographical +sketch and an estimate of his character. +It is written in the peculiar style, pedantic and conceited, +by which the first king's literary efforts are +distinguished, but an extract from it deserves on all +accounts to be quoted. These two brothers, both of +extraordinary talents, and, on the whole, of illustrious +character and history, lived for the most part on +terms of fraternal attachment and kindness, although +some natural jealousy would seem to have grown up +during the last few years of their lives, leading to the +temporary retirement of the second king to a country-seat +near Chieng Mai, in the hill-country of the +Upper Meinam. Here he spent much of his time +during his last years, and here he added to his harem +a new wife, to whom he was tenderly attached. He +returned to Bangkok to die, and was sincerely +honored and lamented, not only by his own people, +to whom he had been a wise and faithful friend and +ruler, but also by many of other lands, to whom the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 102]</a></span> +fame of his high character had become known. His +brother's "general order" announcing his decease, +contains the following paragraph:</p> + +<p>"He made everything new and beautiful and of +curious appearance, and of a good style of architecture +and much stronger than they had formerly been constructed +by his three predecessors, the second kings of +the last three reigns, for the space of time that he +was second king. He had introduced and collected +many and many things, being articles of great curiosity, +and things useful for various purposes of military +arts and affairs, from Europe and America, China +and other states, and planted them in various departments +and rooms or buildings suitable for these +articles, and placed officers for maintaining and +preserving the various things neatly and carefully. +He has constructed several buildings in European +fashion and Chinese fashion, and ornamented them +with various useful ornaments for his pleasure, and +has constructed two steamers in manner of men-of-war, +and two steam-yachts and several rowing state-boats +in Siamese and Cochin-China fashion, for his +pleasure at sea and rivers of Siam; and caused several +articles of gold and silver, being vessels and various +wares and weapons, to be made up by the Siamese +and Malayan goldsmiths, for employ and dress +for himself and his family, by his direction and skilful +contrivance and ability. He became celebrated and +spread out more and more to various regions of the +Siamese kingdom, adjacent states around, and far +famed to foreign countries even at far distance, as he +became acquainted with many and many foreigners,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 103]</a></span> +who came from various quarters of the world where +his name became known to most as a very clever and +bravest prince of Siam."</p> + +<p>Much more of this royal document is quoted in +Mrs. Leonowens' "English Governess at the Court of +Siam."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 104]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> + +<h3>PHRABAT SOMDETCH PHRA PARAMENDR MAHA MONGKUT</h3> + + +<p>In some respects the most conspicuous name in the +history of the civilization of Siam will always be +that of the king under whose enlightened and liberal +administration of government the kingdom was thrown +open to foreign intercourse, and the commerce, the +science, and even the religion of the western world accepted +if not invited. His son, the present first king, +is following in the steps of his father, and has already +introduced some noteworthy reforms and changes, the +importance of which is very great. But the way was +opened for these changes by the wise and bold policy +of the late king, whose death, in 1868, closed a career +of usefulness which entitles him to a high place among +the benefactors of his age.</p> + +<p>A description of this king and of his court is furnished +from the same editorial narrative from which +the last two chapters have been chiefly quoted. It +will be remembered that the period to which the narrative +refers is the year 1857, the time of the visit of +the Portsmouth, with the ratification of the American +treaty.</p> + +<p>His majesty, the first king of Siam, kindly gives us +our choice of titles by which, and of languages in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 105]</a></span> +which, he may be designated. To his own people he +appears in an array of syllables sufficiently astonishing +to our eyes and ears, as Phrabat Somdetch Phra +Paramendr Maha Mongkut Phra Chau Klau Chau Yu +Hud; but to outsiders he announces himself as simply +the first king of Siam and its dependencies; or, in +treaties and other official documents, as "Rex Major," +or "Supremus Rex Siamensium." The Latin is his, +not mine. And I am bound to acknowledge that the +absolute supremacy which the "supremus" indicates +is qualified by his recognition of the "blessing of +highest and greatest superagency of the universe," by +which blessing his own sovereignty exists. He has +been quick to learn the maxim which monarchs are +not ever slow to learn nor slow to use, that "Kings +reign by the grace of God." And it is, to say the +least, a safe conjecture that the maxim has as much +power over his conscience as it has had over the consciences +of some kings much more civilized and orthodox +than he.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus6" id="illus6"></a><img src="images/illus006.jpg" width="320" height="464" alt="THE LATE FIRST KING AND QUEEN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE LATE FIRST KING AND QUEEN.</span> +</div> + +<p>This polyglot variety of titles indicates a varied, +though somewhat superficial, learning. Before he +came to the throne the king had lived for several +years in the seclusion of a Buddhist monastery. Promotion +from the priesthood to the throne is an event +so unusual in any country except Siam, that it might +seem full of risk. But in this instance it worked well. +During the years of his monastic life he grew to be a +thoughtful, studious man, and he brought with him +to his kingly office a wide familiarity with literature +which marked him as a scholar who knew the world +through books rather than through men. His manner<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 106]</a></span> +of speaking English was less easy and accurate than +his brother's; but, on the other hand, the "pomp and +circumstance" of his court was statelier and stranger, +and is worthy of a better description. The second +king received us with such gentlemanly urbanity and +freedom that it was hard to realize the fact that we +were in the presence of royalty. But our reception +by the first king was arranged on what the newspapers +would call "a scale of Oriental magnificence," +and it lingers in memory like some dreamy recollection +of the splendors of the Arabian Nights.</p> + +<p>One of the most singular illustrations of the ups +and downs of nations and of races which history affords, +is to be seen in the position of the Portuguese +in Siam. They came there centuries ago as a superior +race, in all the dignity and pride of discoverers, +and with all the romantic daring of adventurous exploration. +Now there is only a worn-out remnant of +them left, degraded almost to the level of the Asiatics, +to whom they brought the name and knowledge +of the Western world. They have mixed with the +Siamese, till, at the first, it is difficult to distinguish +them as having European blood and lineage. But +when we asked who the grotesque old creatures +might be who came to us on messages from the king, +or guided us when we went to see the wonders of the +city, or superintended the cooking of our meals, or performed +various menial services about our dwelling, +we found that they were half-breed descendants of +the Portuguese who once flourished here. When we +landed at the mouth of the river on our way to Bangkok +for an audience with the king, one of the first<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 107]</a></span> +persons whom we encountered was one of these demoralized +Europeans. He made a ridiculous assertion +of his lineage in the style of his costume. Disdaining +the Siamese fashions, he had made for +himself or had inherited a swallow-tailed coat of sky-blue +silk, and pantaloons of purple silk, in which he +seemed to feel himself the equal of any of us. Had +any doubt as to his ancestry lingered in our minds, +it must have been removed by a most ancient and +honorable stove-pipe hat, which had evidently been +handed down from father to son, through the generations, +as a rusty relic of grander days. This old +gentleman was in charge of a bountiful supply of +provisions which the king had sent for us. It was +hard not to moralize over the old man as the representative +of a nation which had all the time been +going backward since it led the van of discovery in +the Indies centuries ago; while the people whom his +ancestors found heathenish and benighted are starting +on a career of improvement and elevation of +which no man can prophesy the rate or the result.</p> + +<p>The old Portuguese referred to would seem to be +the same whom Sir John Bowring mentions in the +following passage, and who has been so long a faithful +servant of the government of Siam that his great +age and long-continued services entitle him to a word +of honorable mention, notwithstanding the droll appearance +which he presented in his remarkable costume. +Sir John Bowring, writing in 1856, says:</p> + +<p>"Among the descendants of the ancient Portuguese +settlers in Siam there was one who especially +excited our attention. He was the master of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 108]</a></span> +ceremonies at our arrival in Paknam, and from his +supposed traditional or hereditary acquaintance with +the usages of European courts, we found him invested +with great authority on all state occasions. He wore +a European court dress, which he told me had been +given him by Sir James Brooke, and which, like a +rusty, old cocked hat, was somewhat the worse for +wear. But I was not displeased to recognize in him +a gentleman whom Mr. Crawford (the British ambassador +in 1822) thus describes:</p> + +<p>"'July 10 (1822). I had in the course of this +forenoon a visit from a person of singular modesty +and intelligence. Pascal Ribeiro de Alvergarias, the +descendant of a Portuguese Christian of Kamboja. +This gentleman holds a high Siamese title, and a +post of considerable importance. Considering his +means and situation, his acquirements were remarkable, +for he not only spoke and wrote the Siamese, +Kambojan, and Portuguese languages with facility, +but also spoke and wrote Latin with considerable +propriety. We found, indeed, a smattering of Latin +very frequent among the Portuguese interpreters at +Bangkok, but Señor Ribeiro was the only individual +who made any pretence to speak it with accuracy. +He informed us that he was the descendant of a +person of the same name, who settled at Kamboja +in the year 1685. His lady's genealogy, however, +interested us more than his own. She was the lineal +descendant of an Englishman, of the name of +Charles Lister, a merchant, who settled in Kamboja +in the year 1701, and who had acquired some reputation +at the court by making pretence to a knowl<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 109]</a></span>edge +in medicine. Charles Lister had come immediately +from Madras, and brought with him his sister. +This lady espoused a Portuguese of Kamboja, by +whom she had a son, who took her own name. Her +grandson, of this name also, in the revolution of the +kingdom of Kamboja, found his way to Siam; and +here, like his great-uncle, practising the healing art, +rose to the station of Maha-pet, or first physician to +the king. The son of this individual, Cajitanus Lister, +is at present the physician, and at the same time +the minister and confidential adviser of the present +King of Kamboja. His sister is the wife of the subject +of this short notice. Señor Ribeiro favored us +with the most authentic and satisfactory account +which we had yet obtained of the late revolution and +present state of Kamboja.'"</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus7" id="illus7"></a><img src="images/illus007.jpg" width="320" height="568" alt="ONE OF THE SONS OF THE LATE FIRST KING." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ONE OF THE SONS OF THE LATE FIRST KING.</span> +</div> + +<p>It is not safe always to judge by the appearance. +This grotesque old personage, whom the narrative +describes, represented a story of strange and romantic +interest, extending through two centuries of wonderful +vicissitude, and involving the blending of +widely separated nationalities. But to resume the +narrative:</p> + +<p>When at last, after our stay in Bangkok was almost +at an end, we were invited by "supremus rex" +to spend the evening at his palace, we found our +friend of the beaver hat and sky-blue coat and purple +breeches in charge of a squad of attendants in one of +the outer buildings of the court, where we were to +beguile the time with more refreshments until his +majesty should be ready for us. Everything about +us was on a larger scale than at the second king's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 110]</a></span>the +grounds more spacious, and the various structures +with which they were filled, the temples, armories, +and storehouses, of more ambitions size and style, +but not so neat and orderly. A crowd of admiring +spectators clustered about the windows of the room +in which we were waiting, watching with breathless +interest to see the strangers eat: so that as we sat in +all the glory of cocked hats and epaulets, we had the +double satisfaction of giving and receiving entertainment.</p> + +<p>But presently there came a messenger to say that +the king was ready for us. And so we walked on +between the sentries, who saluted us with military +exactness, between the stately halls that ran on either +hand, until a large, closed gateway barred our way. +Swinging open as we stood before them, the gates +closed silently behind us, and we found ourselves in +the august presence of "Rex Supremus Siamensium."</p> + +<p>It might almost have been "the good Haroun Alraschid" +and "the great pavilion of the caliphat in +inmost Bagdad," that we had come to, it was so imposing +a scene, and so characteristically Oriental. What +I had read of in the "Arabian Nights," and hardly +thought was possible except in such romantic stories, +seemed to be realized. Here was a king worth seeing, +a real king, with a real crown on, and with real +pomp of royalty about him. I think that every +American who goes abroad has a more or less distinct +sense of being defrauded of his just rights +when, in Paris or Berlin, for example, he goes out +to see the king or emperor, and is shown a plainly-dressed +man driving quietly and almost undistin<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 111]</a></span>guished +among the throng of carriages. We feel +that this is not at all what we came for, nor what we +had been led to expect when, as schoolboys, we read +about imperial magnificence and regal splendor, and +the opulence of the "crowned heads." The crowned +head might have passed before our very eyes, and +we would not have known it if we had not been told. +Not so in Bangkok. This was "a goodly king" indeed. +And all the circumstances of time and place +seemed to be so managed as to intensify the singular +charm and beauty of the scene.</p> + +<p>We stood in a large court, paved with broad, +smooth slabs of marble, and open to the sky, which +was beginning to be rosy with the sunset. All about +us were magnificent palace buildings, with shining +white walls, and with roofs of gleaming green and +gold. Broad avenues, with the same marble pavement, +led in various directions to the temples and +the audience halls. Here and there the dazzling +whiteness of the buildings and the pavement was relieved +by a little dark tropical foliage; and, as the +sunset grew more ruddy every instant,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"A sudden splendor from behind<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Flushed all the leaves with rich gold green,"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>and tinged the whole bright court with just the +necessary warmth of color. There was the most perfect +stillness, broken only by the sound of our footsteps +on the marble, and, except ourselves, not a +creature was moving. Here and there, singly or in +groups, about the spacious court, prostrate, with faces +on the stone, in motionless and obsequious reverence,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 112]</a></span> +as if they were in the presence of a god and not of a +man, grovelled the subjects of the mighty sovereign +into whose presence we were approaching. It was +hard for the stoutest democrat to resist a momentary +feeling of sympathy with such universal awe; and to +remember that, after all, as Hamlet says, a "king is +a thing ... of nothing." So contagious is the +obsequiousness of a royal court and so admirably effective +was the arrangement of the whole scene.</p> + +<p>The group toward which we were advancing was a +good way in front of the gateway by which we had +entered. There was a crouching sword-bearer, holding +upright a long sword in a heavily embossed +golden scabbard. There were other attendants, holding +jewel-cases or elegant betel-nut boxes—all prostrate. +There were others still ready to crawl off in +obedience to orders, on whatever errands might be +necessary. There were three or four very beautiful +little children, the king's sons, kneeling behind their +father, and shining with the chains of jewelled gold +which hung about their naked bodies. More in +front there crouched a servant holding high a splendid +golden canopy, beneath which stood the king. +He wore a grass-cloth jacket, loosely buttoned with +diamonds, and a rich silken scarf, which, wound about +the waist, hung gracefully to his knees. Below this +was an unadorned exposure of bare shins, and his +feet were loosely slippered. But on his head he +wore a cap or crown that fairly blazed with brilliant +gems, some of them of great size and value. There +was not wanting in his manner a good deal of natural +dignity; although it was constrained and embar<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 113]</a></span>rassed. +It was in marked contrast with the cheerful +and unceremonious freedom of the second king. +He seemed burdened with the care of government +and saddened with anxiety, and as if he knew his +share of the uneasiness of "the head that wears a +crown."</p> + +<p>He stood in conversation with us for a few moments, +and then led the way to a little portico in the +Chinese style of architecture, where we sat through +an hour of talk, and drink, and jewelry, mixed in +pretty equal proportions. For there were some details +of business in connection with the treaty that +required to be talked over. And there were sentiments +of international amity to be proposed and +drunk after the Occidental fashion. And there were +the magnificent royal diamonds and other gems to +be produced for our admiring inspection—great emeralds +of a more vivid green than the dark tropical +foliage, and rubies and all various treasures which +the Indian mines afford, till the place shone before +our eyes, thicker</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"With jewels than the sward with drops of dew,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">When all night long a cloud clings to the hill,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And with the dawn ascending lets the day<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Strike where it clung; so thickly shone the gems."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>All the while the nobles were squatting or lying +on the floor, and the children were playing in a subdued +and quiet way at the king's feet. Somehow +the beauty of these little Siamese children seemed to +me very remarkable. As they grow older, they grow<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 114]</a></span> +lean, and wrinkled, and ugly. But while they are +children they are pretty "as a picture"—as some +of those pictures, for example, in the Italian galleries. +Going quite innocent of clothing, they are very +straight and plump in figure, and unhindered in their +grace of motion. And they used to bear themselves +with a simple and modest dignity that was very winning. +They have the soft and lustrous eyes, the +shining teeth (as yet unstained by betel-nut), the +pleasant voices, which are the birthright of the children +of the tropics. In default of clothes, they are +stained all over with some pigment, which makes +their skin a lively yellow, and furnishes a shade of +contrast for the deeper color of the gold which hangs +around their necks and arms. I used to compare +them, to their great advantage, with the Chinese +children.</p> + +<p>There is not in Siam, at least there is not in the +same degree, that obstinate conceit behind which, +as behind a barrier, the Chinese have stood for centuries, +resisting stubbornly the entrance of all light +and civilization from without. I do not know what +possible power could extort from a Chinese official +the acknowledgment which this king freely made, +that his people were "half civilized and half barbarous, +being very ignorant of civilized and enlightened +customs and usages." Such an admission from +a Chinaman would be like the demolition of their +great northern wall. It is true of nations as it is of +individuals, that pride is the most stubborn obstacle +in the way of all real progress. And national humility +is the earnest of national exaltation. There<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 115]</a></span>fore +it is that the condition of things at the Siamese +court seems to me so full of promise.</p> + +<p>By and by the king withdrew, and intimated that +he would presently meet us again at an entertainment +in another part of the palace. His disappearance +was the signal for the resurrection of the +prostrate noblemen, who started up all around us in +an unexpected way, like toads after a rain. Moving +toward the new apartment where our "entertainment" +was prepared, we saw the spacious court to +new advantage. For the night had come while we +had waited, and the mellow light from the tropic +stars and burning constellations flowed down upon +us through the fragrant night air. Mingling with +this white starlight was the ruddy glow that came +through palace windows from lamps fed by fragrant +oil of cocoanut, and from the moving torches of our +attendants. And as we walked through the broad +avenues, dimly visible in this mixed light, some +gilded window arch or overhanging roof with gold-green +tiles, or the varied costume of the moving +group of which we formed a part, would stand out +from the shadowy darkness with a sudden and most +picturesque distinctness. So we came at last to the +apartment where the king had promised to rejoin us.</p> + +<p>Here the apparition of our old sky-blue friend, +the beaver-hatted Portuguese, suggested that a dinner +was impending, and, if we might judge by his +uncommon nervousness of manner, it must be a dinner +of unprecedented style. And certainly there +was a feast, sufficiently sumptuous and very elegantly +served, awaiting our arrival. At one side of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 116]</a></span> +room, on a raised platform, was a separate table for +the king, and beside it, awaiting his arrival, was his +throne,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i16">"From which<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Down dropped in many a floating fold,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Engarlanded and diapered<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With inwrought flowers, a cloth of gold."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>In the bright light of many lamps the room was +strangely beautiful. On one side, doors opened into +a stately temple, out of which presently the king +came forth. And as, when he had disappeared, the +nobles seemed to come out from the ground like +toads, so now, like toads, they squatted, and the sovereign +of the squatters took his seat above them.</p> + +<p>Presently there was music. A band of native +musicians stationed at the foot of the king's throne +commenced a lively performance on their instruments. +It was strange, wild music, with a plaintive +sweetness, that was very enchanting. The tones +were liquid as the gurgling of a mountain brook, +and rose and fell in the same irregular measure. +And when to the first band of instruments there +was added another in a different part of the room, +the air became tremulous with sweet vibrations, and +the wild strains lingered softly about the gilded +eaves and cornices and floated upward toward the +open sky.</p> + +<p>It seemed that the fascination of the scene would +be complete if there were added the poetry of motion. +And so, in came the dancers, a dozen young girls, +pretty and modest, and dressed in robes of which I +cannot describe the profuse and costly ornamentation.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 117]</a></span> +The gold and jewels fairly crusted them, and, as the +dancers moved, the light flashed from the countless +gems at every motion. As each one entered the +apartment she approached the king, and, reverently +kneeling, slowly lifted her joined hands as if +in adoration. All the movements were gracefully +timed to the sweet barbaric music, and were slow +and languid, and as quiet as the movements in a +dream. We sat and watched them dreamily, half +bewildered by the splendor which our eyes beheld, +and the sweetness which our ears heard, till the night +was well advanced and it was time to go. It was a +sudden shock to all our Oriental reveries, when, as +we rose to leave, his majesty requested that we would +give him three cheers. It was the least we could do +in return for his royal hospitality, and accordingly +the captain led off in the demonstration, while the +rest of us joined in with all the heartiness of voice +that we could summon. But it broke the charm. +Those occidental cheers, that hoarse Anglo-Saxon +roar, had no proper place among these soft and sensuous +splendors, which had held us captive all the +evening, till we had well-nigh forgotten the everyday +world of work and duty to which we belonged.</p> + +<p>It is when we remember the enervating influence +of the drowsy tropics upon character, that we learn +fitly to honor the men and women by whom the inauguration +of this new era in Siamese history has +been brought about. To live for a little while among +these sensuous influences without any very serious intellectual +work to do, or any very grave moral responsibility +to bear, is one thing; but to spend a life<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 118]</a></span> +among them, with such a constant strain upon the +mind and heart as the laying of Christian foundations +among a heathen people must always necessitate, +is quite another thing. This is what the missionaries +in Siam have to do. Their battle is not +with the prejudices of heathenism only, nor with the +vices and ignorance of bad men only. It is a battle +with nature itself. To the passing traveller, half +intoxicated with the beauty of the country and the +rich splendor of that oriental world, it may seem a +charming thing to live there, and no uninviting lot to +be a missionary in such pleasant places. But the very +attractiveness of the field to one who sees it as a visitor, +and who is dazzled by its splendors as he looks +upon it out of kings' palaces, is what makes it all the +harder for one who goes with hard, self-sacrificing +work to do. The fierce sun wilts the vigor of his +mind and scorches up the fresh enthusiasm of his +heart.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Droops the heavy-blossomed flower, hangs the heavy-fruited tree."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>And all the beautiful earth, and all the drowsy air, +and all the soft blue sky invite to sloth and ease and +luxury.</p> + +<p>Therefore I give the greater honor to the earnest +men and to the patient women who are laboring and +praying for the coming of the Christian day to this +benighted people.</p> + +<p>His majesty, Phrabat Somdetch Phra Paramendr +Maha Mongkut closed his remarkable career on October +1, 1868, under circumstances of peculiar inter<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 119]</a></span>est. +Amid all the cares and anxieties of government +he had never ceased to occupy himself with matters +of literary and scientific importance. Questions of +scholarship in any one of the languages of which he +was more or less master were always able to divert +and engage his attention. And the approach of the +great solar eclipse in August, 1868, was an event the +coming of which he had himself determined by his +own reckoning, and for which he waited with an impatience +half philosophic and half childish. A special +observatory was built for the occasion, and an expedition +of extraordinary magnitude and on a scale +of great expenditure and pomp was equipped by the +king's command to accompany him to the post of observation. +A great retinue both of natives and of +foreigners, including a French scientific commission, +attended his majesty, and were entertained at royal +expense. And the eclipse was satisfactorily witnessed +to the great delight of the king, whose scientific enthusiasm +found abundant expression when his calculation +was proved accurate.</p> + +<p>It was, however, almost his last expedition of any +kind. Even before setting out there had been evident +signs that his health was breaking. And upon +his return it was soon apparent that excitement +and fatigue and the malaria of the jungle had +wrought upon him with fatal results. He died +calmly, preserving to the end that philosophic composure +to which his training in the Buddhist priesthood +had accustomed him. His private life in his +own palace and among his wives and children has +been pictured in an entertaining way by Mrs. Leon<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 120]</a></span>owens, +the English lady whose services he employed +as governess to his young children. He had apparently +his free share of the faults and vices to which +his savage nature and his position as an Oriental +despot, with almost unlimited wealth and power, +gave easy opportunity. It is therefore all the more +remarkable that he should have exhibited such sagacity +and firmness in his government, and such scholarly +enthusiasm in his devotion to literature and +science. Pedantic he seems to us often, and with +more or less arrogant conceit of his own ability and +acquirements. It is easy to laugh at the queer English +which he wrote with such reckless fluency and +spoke with such confident volubility. But it is impossible +to deny that his reign was, for the kingdom +which he governed, the beginning of a new era, and +that whatever advance in civilization the country is +now making, or shall make, will be largely due to the +courage and wisdom and willingness to learn which +he enforced by precept and example. He died in +some sense a martyr to science, while at the same +time he adhered, to the last, tenaciously, and it would +seem from some imaginary obligation of honor, to the +religious philosophy in which he had been trained, +and of which he was one of the most eminent defenders. +His character and his history are full of the +strangest contrasts between the heathenish barbarism +in which he was born and the Christian civilization +toward which, more or less consciously, he was bringing +the people whom he governed. It is in part the +power of such contrasts which gives to his reign such +extraordinary and picturesque interest.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 121]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus8" id="illus8"></a><img src="images/illus008.jpg" width="320" height="210" alt="A FEW OF THE CHILDREN OF THE LATE FIRST KING." title="" /> +<span class="caption">A FEW OF THE CHILDREN OF THE LATE FIRST KING.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 122]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2> + +<h3>AYUTHIA</h3> + + +<p>The former capital of Siam, which in its day +was a city of great magnificence and fame, has +been for many years supplanted by Bangkok; and +probably a sight of the latter city as it now is gives +to the traveller the best impression of what the former +used to be. So completely does the interest of the +kingdom centre at Bangkok that few travellers go +beyond the limits of the walls of that city except in +ascending or descending the river which leads to it +from the sea. For a description of Ayuthia in its +glory we are obliged to turn back to the old German +traveller who visited Siam during the first half of the +seventeenth century. Sir John Bowring has connected +this ancient narrative with that of a recent observer +who has visited the ruins of the once famous +city. We quote from Bowring's narrative:</p> + +<p>"The ancient city of Ayuthia, whose pagodas and +palaces were the object of so much laudation from +ancient travellers, and which was called the Oriental +Venice, from the abundance of its canals and the +beauty of its public buildings, is now almost wholly +in ruins, its towers and temples whelmed in the dust +and covered with rank vegetation. The native name +of Ayuthia was Sijan Thijan, meaning 'Terrestrial<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 122]</a></span> +Paradise.' The Siamese are in the habit of giving +very ostentatious names to their cities, which, as La +Loubère says: 'do signify great things.' Pallegoix +speaks of the ambitious titles given to Siamese towns, +among which he mentions 'the City of Angels,' +'the City of Archangels,' and the 'Celestial Spectacle.'</p> + +<p>"The general outlines of the old city so closely +resemble those of Bangkok, that the map of the one +might easily be mistaken for the representation of +the other.</p> + +<p>"It may not be out of place here to introduce the +description of Ayuthia from the pen of Mandelsloe—one +of those painstaking travellers whose contributions +to geographical science have been collected +in the ponderous folios of Dr. Harris (vol. i., p. 781). +Mandelsloe reports that:</p> + +<p>"The city of Judda is built upon an island in the +river Meinam. It is the ordinary residence of the +king of Siam, having several very fair streets, with +spacious channels regularly cut. The suburbs are on +both sides of the river, which, as well as the city itself, +are adorned with many temples and palaces; of +the first of which there are above three hundred +within the city, distinguished by their gilt steeples, +or rather pyramids, and afford a glorious prospect at +a distance. The houses are, as all over the Indies, +but indifferently built and covered with tiles. The +royal palace is equal to a large city. Ferdinando +Mendez Pinto makes the number of inhabitants of +this city amount, improbably, to four hundred thousand +families. It is looked upon as impregnable, by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 123]</a></span> +reason of the overflowing of the river at six months' +end. The king of Siam, who takes amongst his +other titles that of Paecan Salsu, <i>i.e.</i>—Sacred Member +of God—has this to boast of, that, next to the +Mogul, he can deduce his descent from more kings +than any other in the Indies. He is absolute, his +privy councillors, called mandarins, being chosen and +deposed barely at his pleasure. When he appears in +public it is done with so much pomp and magnificence +as is scarce to be imagined, which draws such a +veneration to his person from the common people, +that, even in the streets as he passes by, they give +him godlike titles and worship. He marries no more +than one wife at a time, but has an infinite number +of concubines. He feeds very high; but his drink +is water only, the use of strong liquors being severely +prohibited by their ecclesiastical law, to persons of +quality in Siam. As the thirds of all the estates of +the kingdom fall to his exchequer, so his riches must +be very great; but what makes them almost immense +is, that he is the chief merchant in the kingdom, +having his factors in all places of trade, to sell rice, +copper, lead, saltpetre, etc., to foreigners. Mendez +Pinto makes his yearly revenue rise to twelve millions +of ducats, the greatest part of which, being laid up in +his treasury, must needs swell to an infinity in process +of time." Sir John Bowring adds:</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus9" id="illus9"></a><img src="images/illus009.jpg" width="320" height="203" alt="REMOVAL OF THE TUFT OF A YOUNG SIAMESE." title="" /> +<span class="caption">REMOVAL OF THE TUFT OF A YOUNG SIAMESE.</span> +</div> + +<p>"I have received the following account of the present +condition of Ayuthia, the old capital of Siam, +from a gentleman who visited it in December, +1855:</p> + +<p>"'Ayuthia is at this time the second city of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 124]</a></span> +kingdom. Situated, as the greater part is, on a creek +or canal, connecting the main river with a large +branch which serves as the high road to Pakpriau, +Korat, and southern Laos, travellers are apt entirely +to overlook it when visiting the ruins of the various +wats or temples on the island where stood the ancient +city.</p> + +<p>"'The present number of inhabitants cannot be +less than between twenty and thirty thousand, among +which are a large number of Chinese, a few Birmese, +and some natives of Laos. They are principally employed +in shopkeeping, agriculture, or fishing, for +there are no manufactories of importance. Floating +houses are most commonly employed as dwellings, +the reason for which is that the Siamese very justly +consider them more healthy than houses on land.</p> + +<p>"'The soil is wonderfully fertile. The principal +product is rice, which, although of excellent quality, +is not so well adapted for the market as that grown +nearer the sea, on account of its being much lighter +and smaller. A large quantity of oil, also an astringent +liquor called toddy, and sugar, is manufactured +from the palm (Elaeis), extensive groves of which are +to be found in the vicinity of the city. I was shown +some European turnips which had sprung up and +attained a very large size. Indigenous fruits and +vegetables also flourish in great plenty. The character +of the vegetation is, however, different from that +around Bangkok. The cocoa and areca palms become +rare, and give place to the bamboo.</p> + +<p>"'The only visible remains of the old city are a +large number of wats, in different stages of decay.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 125]</a></span> +They extend over an area of several miles of country, +and lie hidden in the trees and jungle which have +sprung up around them. As the beauty of a Siamese +temple consists not in its architecture, but in the +quantity of arabesque work with which the brick and +stucco walls are covered, it soon yields to the power +of time and weather, and becomes, if neglected, an +unsightly heap of bricks and wood-work, overgrown +with parasitical plants. It is thus at Ayuthia. A +vast pile of bricks and earth, with here and there +a spire still rearing itself to the skies, marks the spot +where once stood a shrine before which thousands +were wont to prostrate themselves in superstitious +adoration. There stand also the formerly revered +images of Gaudama, once resplendent with gold and +jewels, but now broken, mutilated, and without a +shadow of their previous splendor. There is one +sacred spire of immense height and size which is +still kept in some kind of repair, and which is sometimes +visited by the king. It is situated about four +miles from the town, in the centre of a plain of +paddy-fields. Boats and elephants are the only +means of reaching it, as there is no road whatever, +except such as the creeks and swampy paddy-fields +afford. It bears much celebrity among the Siamese, +on account of its height, but can boast of nothing +attractive to foreigners but the fine view which is +obtained from the summit. This spire, like all +others, is but a succession of steps from the bottom +to the top; a few ill-made images affording the only +relief from the monotony of the brickwork. It bears, +too, none of those ornaments, constructed of broken<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 126]</a></span> +crockery, with which the spires and temples of Bangkok +are so plentifully bedecked.</p> + +<p>"'This is all that repays the traveller for his visit,—a +poor remuneration though, were it the curiosity +of an antiquarian that led him to the place, for the +ruins have not yet attained a sufficient age to compensate +for their uninteresting appearance.</p> + +<p>"'As we were furnished with a letter from the +Phya Kalahom to the governor, instructing him to +furnish us with everything requisite for our convenience, +we waited on that official, but were unfortunate +enough to find that he had gone to Bangkok. +The letter was thus rendered useless, for no one +dared open it in his absence. Happily, however, we +were referred to a nobleman who had been sent from +Bangkok to superintend the catching of elephants, +and he, without demur, gave us every assistance in +his power.</p> + +<p>"'After visiting the ruins, therefore, we inspected +the kraal or stockade, in which the elephants are +captured. This was a large quadrangular piece of +ground, enclosed by a wall about six feet in thickness, +having an entrance on one side, through which +the elephants are made to enter the enclosure. Inside +the wall is a fence of strong teak stakes driven +into the ground a few inches apart. In the centre is +a small house erected on poles and strongly surrounded +with stakes, wherein some men are stationed +for the purpose of securing the animals. These +abound in the neighborhood of the city, but cannot +exactly be called wild, as the majority of them have, +at some time or other, been subjected to servitude.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 127]</a></span> +They are all the property of the king, and it is criminal +to hurt or kill one of them. Once a year, a +large number is collected together in the enclosure, +and as many as are wanted of those possessing the +points which the Siamese consider beautiful are +captured. The fine points in an elephant are: a +color approaching to white or red, black nails on the +toes (the common color of these nails is black and +white), and intact tails (for, owing to their pugnacious +disposition, it is rarely that an elephant is caught +which has not had its tail bitten off). On this occasion +the king and a large concourse of nobles +assemble together to witness the proceedings; they +occupy a large platform on one side of the enclosure. +The wild elephants are then driven in by the aid of +tame males of a very large size and great strength, +and the selection takes place. If an animal which is +wanted escapes from the kraal, chase is immediately +made after it by a tame elephant, the driver of which +throws a lasso to catch the feet of the fugitive. +Having effected this, the animal on which he rides +leans itself with all its power the opposite way, and +thus brings the other violently to the ground. It is +then strongly bound, and conducted to the stables.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus10" id="illus10"></a><img src="images/illus010.jpg" width="320" height="224" alt="ELEPHANTS IN AN ENCLOSURE OR PARK AT AYUTHIA." title="" /> +<span class="caption">ELEPHANTS IN AN ENCLOSURE OR PARK AT AYUTHIA.</span> +</div> + +<p>"'Naturally enough, accidents are of common occurrence, +men being frequently killed by the infuriated +animals, which are sometimes confined two +or three days in the enclosure without food.</p> + +<p>"'When elephants are to be sent to Bangkok a +floating house has to be constructed for the purpose.</p> + +<p>"'As elephants were placed at our disposal we enjoyed +the opportunity of judging of their capabilities<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 128]</a></span> +in a long ride through places inaccessible to a lesser +quadruped. Their step is slow and cautious, and the +rider is subjected to a measured roll from side to side, +which at first is somewhat disagreeable. In traversing +marshes and soft ground they feel their way with +their trunks. They are excessively timid; horses are +a great terror to them, and, unless they are well +trained, the report of a fowling-piece scares them +terribly.'</p> + +<p>"Above Ayuthia the navigation of the Meinam is +often interrupted by sand-banks, but the borders are +still occupied by numerous and populous villages; +their number diminishes until the marks of human +presence gradually disappear—the river is crowded +with crocodiles, the trees are filled with monkeys, and +the noise of the elephants is heard in the impervious +woods. After many days' passage up the river, one of +the oldest capitals of Siam, built fifteen hundred years +ago, is approached. Its present name is Phit Salok, +and it contains about five thousand inhabitants, whose +principal occupation is cutting teak-wood, to be floated +down the stream to Bangkok.</p> + +<p>"The account which Bishop Pallegoix gives of the +interior of the country above Ayuthia is not very flattering. +He visited it in the rainy season, and says it +appeared little better than a desert—a few huts by the +side of the stream—neither towns, nor soldiers, nor +custom-houses. Rice was found cheap and abundant, +everything else wanting. Some of the Bishop's adventures +are characteristic. In one place, where he heard +pleasant music, he found a mandarin surrounded by +his dozen wives, who were playing a family concert.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 129]</a></span> +The mandarin took the opportunity to seek information +about Christianity, and listened patiently and +pleased enough, until the missionary told him one +wife must satisfy him if he embraced the Catholic +faith, which closed the controversy, as the Siamese +said <i>that</i> was an impossible condition. In some +places the many-colored pagodas towered above the +trees, and they generally possessed a gilded Buddha +twenty feet in height. The Bishop observes that the +influence of the Buddhist priests is everywhere paramount +among the Siamese, but that they have little +hold upon the Chinese, Malays, or Laos people. In one +of the villages they offered a wife to one of the missionaries, +but finding the present unacceptable, they +replaced the lady by two youths, who continued in his +service, and he speaks well of their fidelity."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus11" id="illus11"></a><img src="images/illus011.jpg" width="320" height="162" alt="PAKNAM ON THE MEINAM." title="" /> +<span class="caption">PAKNAM ON THE MEINAM.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 130]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2> + +<h3>PHRABAT AND PATAWI</h3> + + +<p>One of the most famous of the holy places of +Siam, and one which it is now comparatively +easy to visit, is the shrine of "the footstep of Buddha." +This footstep was discovered early in the +seventeenth century by the king who is called the +founder of the second dynasty. As he had been, before +his accession to the throne, a member of the +priesthood, and "very popular as a learned and religious +teacher," it is easy to see what aptitude he +had for such a discovery. It is a favorite resort for +pilgrims.</p> + +<p>"Bishop Pallegoix," says Bowring, "speaks of a +large assemblage of gaily-ornamented barges, filled +with multitudes of people in holiday dresses, whom +he met above Ayuthia, going on a pilgrimage to the +'foot of Buddha.' The women and girls wore scarfs +of silk, and bracelets of gold and silver, and filled +the air with their songs, to which troops of priests +and young men responded in noisy music. The +place of debarkation is Tha Rua, which is on the +road to Phrabat, where the footprint of the god is +found. More than five hundred barges were there, +all illuminated: a drama was performed on the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 131]</a></span> +shore; there was a great display of vocal and instrumental +music, tea-drinking, playing at cards and +dice, and the merry festivities lasted through the +whole night.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus12" id="illus12"></a><img src="images/illus012.jpg" width="320" height="197" alt="PAGODA AT MOUNT PHRABAT." title="" /> +<span class="caption">PAGODA AT MOUNT PHRABAT.</span> +</div> + +<p>"Early the following day the cortege departed by +the river. It consisted of princes, nobles, rich men, +ladies, girls, priests, all handsomely clad. They +landed, and many proceeded on foot, while the more +distinguished mounted on elephants to move toward +the sacred mountain. In such localities the spirit of +fanaticism is usually intemperate and persecuting; +and the bishop says the governor received him angrily, +and accused him of 'intending to debauch his +people by making them Christians.' But he was +softened by presents and explanations, and ultimately +gave the bishop a passport, recommending him to +'all the authorities and chiefs of villages under his +command, as a Christian priest (farang), and as his +friend, and ordering that he should be kindly treated, +protected, and furnished with all the provisions he +might require.'</p> + +<p>"Of his visit to the sacred mountain, so much the +resort of Buddhist pilgrims, Pallegoix gives this account:</p> + +<p>"'I engaged a guide, mounted an elephant, and +took the route of Phrabat, followed by my people. +I was surprised to find a wide and excellent road, +paved with bricks, and opened in a straight line +across the forests. On both sides of the road, at a +league's distance, were halls or stations, with wells +dug for the use of the pilgrims. Soon the road became +crooked, and we stopped to bathe in a large<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 132]</a></span> +pond. At four o'clock we reached the magnificent +monastery of Phrabat, built on the declivity, but +nearly at the foot of a tall mountain, formed by +fantastic rocks of a bluish color. The monastery +has several walls surrounding it; and having entered +the second enclosure we found the <i>abbé-prince</i>, seated +on a raised floor, and directing the labors of a +body of workmen. His attendants called on us to +prostrate ourselves, but we did not obey them. "Silence!" +he said; "you know not that the <i>farang</i> +honor their grandees by standing erect." I approached, +and presented him with a bottle of salvolatile, +which he smelt with delight. I requested he +would appoint some one to conduct us to see the +vestige of Buddha; and he called his principal assistant +(the <i>balat</i>), and directed him to accompany +us. The <i>balat</i> took us round a great court surrounded +with handsome edifices; showed us two +large temples; and we reached a broad marble staircase +with balustrades of gilded copper, and made the +round of the terrace which is the base of the monument. +All the exterior of this splendid edifice is +gilt; its pavement is square, but it takes the form of +a dome, and is terminated in a pyramid a hundred +and twenty feet high. The gates and windows, +which are double, are exquisitely wrought. The +outer gates are inlaid with handsome devices in +mother-of-pearl, and the inner gates are adorned +with gilt pictures representing the events in the history +of Buddha.</p> + +<p>"'The interior is yet more brilliant; the pavement +is covered with silver mats. At the end, on a throne<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 133]</a></span> +ornamented with precious stones, is a statue of Buddha +in massive silver, of the height of a man; in the +middle is a silver grating, which surrounds the vestige, +whose length is about eighteen inches. It is not distinctly +visible, being covered with rings, ear ornaments, +bracelets, and gold necklaces, the offerings of +devotees when they come to worship. The history +of the relic is this: In the year 1602, notice was +sent to the king, at Ayuthia, that a discovery had +been made at the foot of a mountain, of what appeared +to be a footmark of Buddha. The king sent +his learned men, and the most intelligent priests, to +report if the lineaments of the imprint resembled the +description of the foot of Buddha, as given in the +sacred Pali writings. The examination having taken +place, and the report being in the affirmative, the +king caused the monastery of Phrabat to be built, +which has been enlarged and enriched by his successors.</p> + +<p>"'After visiting the monument the <i>balat</i> escorted +us to a deep well, cut out of the solid stone; the +water is good, and sufficient to provide for crowds +of pilgrims. The abbé-prince is the sovereign lord of +the mountain and its environs within a circuit of +eight leagues; he has from four to five thousand men +under his orders, to be employed as he directs in the +service of the monastery. On the day of my visit +a magnificent palanquin, such as is used by great +princes, was brought to him as a present from the +king. He had the civility to entertain us as well as +he could. I remarked that the kitchen was under the +care of a score of young girls, and they gave the name<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 134]</a></span> +of pages to the youths who attended us. In no other +monastery is this usage to be found.</p> + +<p>"'His highness caused us to be lodged in a handsome +wooden house, and gave me two guards of +honor to serve and watch over me, forbidding my going +out at night on account of tigers. The following +morning I took leave of the good abbé-prince, +mounted my elephant, and taking another road, we +skirted the foot of the mountain till we reached a +spring of spouting waters. We found there a curious +plant, whose leaves were altogether like the shape +and the colors of butterflies. We took a simple +breakfast in the first house we met with; and at +four o'clock in the afternoon we reached our boat, +and after a comfortable night's rest we left Tha-Rua +to return to our church at Ayuthia.'"</p> + +<p>M. Mouhot thus describes his journey from Ayuthia, +made in the winter of 1858:</p> + +<p>"At seven o'clock in the morning my host was +waiting for me at the door, with elephants mounted +by their drivers, and other attendants necessary +for our expedition. At the same hour in the evening +we reached our destination, and before many minutes +had elapsed all the inhabitants were informed of our +arrival; priests and mountaineers were all full of +curiosity to look at the stranger. Among the principal +people of the place I distributed some little +presents, with which they were delighted; but my +fire-arms and other weapons were especially the subjects +of admiration. I paid a visit to the prince of +the mountain, who was detained at home by illness. +He ordered breakfast for me; and, expressing his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 135]</a></span> +regret at not being able to accompany me, sent four +men to serve as guides and assistants. As a return +for his kindness and urbanity, I presented him with +a small pistol, which he received with extreme gratification.</p> + +<p>"We proceeded afterward to the western side of +the mountain, where is the famous temple containing +the footprint of Samona-Kodom, the Buddha of +Indo-China. I was filled with astonishment and admiration +on arriving at this point, and feel utterly +incapable of describing the spectacle which met my +view. What convulsion of Nature, what force could +have upheaved those immense rocks, piled one upon +another in such fantastic forms? Beholding such a +chaos, I could well understand how the imagination +of this simple people, who are ignorant of the true +God, should have here discovered signs of the marvellous +and traces of their false divinities. It was +as if a second and recent deluge had just abated; +this sight alone was enough to recompense me for all +my fatigues.</p> + +<p>"On the mountain summit, in the crevices of the +rocks, in the valleys, in the caverns, all around, could +be seen the footprints of animals, those of elephants +and tigers being most strongly marked; but I am +convinced that many of them were formed by antediluvian +and unknown animals. All these creatures, +according to the Siamese, formed the <i>cortège</i> of +Buddha in his passage over the mountain.</p> + +<p>"As for the temple itself, there is nothing remarkable +about it; it is like most of the pagodas in Siam—on +the one hand unfinished and on the other in a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 136]</a></span> +state of dilapidation; and it is built of brick, although +both stone and marble abound at Phrabat. The approach +to it is by a flight of large steps, and the walls +are covered with little pieces of colored glass, forming +arabesques in great variety, which glitter in the +sun with striking effect. The panels and cornices +are gilt; but what chiefly attracts attention by the +exquisite workmanship are the massive ebony doors, +inlaid with mother-of-pearl of different colors, and +arranged in beautiful designs. The interior of the +temple does not correspond with the outside; the +floor is covered with silver matting, and the walls +bear traces of gilding, but they are blackened by +time and smoke. A catafalque rises in the centre, +surrounded with strips of gilded serge, and there is +to be seen the famous footprint of Buddha. To this +sacred spot the pilgrims bring their offerings, cut +paper, cups, dolls, and an immense number of toys, +many of them being wrought in gold and silver.</p> + +<p>"After staying a week on the mountain, and adding +many pretty and interesting objects to my collection, +our party returned to Arajik, the prince of +Phrabat insisting on sending another guide with me, +although my friend, the mandarin, with his attendants +and elephants, had kindly remained to escort +me back to his village. There I again partook of +his hospitality, and, taking leave of him the day following, +I resumed my voyage up the river. Before +night I arrived at Saraburi, the chief town of the +province of Pakpriau and the residence of the governor.</p> + +<p>"Saraburi is a place of some extent, the population<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 137]</a></span> +consisting chiefly of Siamese, Chinese, and Laotian +agriculturists; and consists, like all towns and villages +in Siam, of houses constructed of bamboo. They peep +out, half hidden, among the foliage along the banks of +the river; beyond are rice plantations, and, further in +the background, extensive forests, inhabited solely by +wild animals.</p> + +<p>"On the morning of the 26th we passed Pakpriau, +near which the cataracts begin. The waters were still +high, and we had much trouble to fight against the +current. A little to the north of this town I met with +a poor family of Laotian Christians, of whom the good +Father Larmandy had spoken to me. We moored our +boat near their house, hoping that it would remain in +safety while I explored the mountains in the neighborhood +and visited Patawi, which is the resort of +the Laotian pilgrims, as Phrabat is of the Siamese.</p> + +<p>"All the country from the banks of the river to +the hills, a distance of about eight or nine miles, and +the whole surface of this mountain-range, is covered +with brown iron-ore and aërolites; where they occur +in the greatest abundance vegetation is scanty and +consists principally of bamboo, but it is rich and +varied in those places where the detritus has formed +a thicker surface of soil. The dense forests furnish +gum and oil, which would be valuable for commerce +if the indolent natives could be prevailed on to collect +them. They are, however, infested with leopards, +tigers, and tiger-cats. Two dogs and a pig were carried +off from the immediate vicinity of the hut of the +Christian guardians of our boat during our stay at +Pakpriau; but the following day I had the pleasure<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 138]</a></span> +of making the offending leopard pay for the robbery +with his life, and his skin served me for a mat.</p> + +<p>"Where the soil is damp and sandy I found numerous +traces of these animals, but those of the royal +tiger are more uncommon. During the night the inhabitants +dare not venture out of doors; but in the +day-time the creatures, satisfied with the fruits of their +predatory rambles, skulk into their dens in the recesses +of the woods. One day I went to explore the +eastern part of the chain of Pakpriau, and, becoming +excited in the chase of a wild boar, we soon lost ourselves +in the forest. The animal made his way through +the brushwood much more easily than we could, encumbered +as we were with guns, hatchets, and boxes, +and we ere long missed the scent. By the terrified +cries of the monkeys we knew we could not be far +from some tiger or leopard, doubtless, like ourselves, +in search of prey; and as night was drawing in, it +became necessary to retrace our steps homeward for +fear of some disagreeable adventure. With all our +efforts, however, we could not find the path. We were +far from the border of the forest, and were forced to +take up our abode in a tree, among the branches of +which we made a sort of hammock. On the following +day we regained the river.</p> + +<p>"I endeavored fruitlessly to obtain oxen or elephants +to carry our baggage with a view of exploring +the country, but all beasts of burden were in use for +the rice-harvest. I therefore left my boat and its +contents in charge of the Laotian family, and we set +off, like pilgrims, on foot for Patawi, on a fine morning +with a somewhat cloudy sky, which recalled to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 139]</a></span> +me the pleasant autumn days of my own country. +My only companions were Küe and my young Laotian +guide. We followed for three hours, through +forests infested with wild beasts, the road to Korat, +and at last reached Patawi. As at Phrabat, there is +a bell, both at the foot of the mount and at the entrance +of a long and wide avenue leading to the pagoda, +which the pilgrims ring on arriving, to inform +the good genii of their presence and bespeak a favorable +hearing of their prayers. The mount is isolated, +and about four hundred and fifty feet in +height; its formation is similar to that of Phrabat, +but although its appearance is equally grand it presents +distinct points of variation. Here are not to be +seen those masses of rock, piled one upon another, as +if hurled by the giants in a combat like that fabled +of old. Patawi seems to be composed of one enormous +rock, which rises almost perpendicularly like a +wall, excepting the centre portion, which toward the +south hangs over like a roof, projecting eighteen or +twenty feet. At the first glance might be recognized +the action of water upon a soil originally clay.</p> + +<p>"There are many footprints similar to those of +Phrabat, and in several places are to be seen entire +trunks of trees in a state of petrifaction lying close to +growing individuals of the same species. They have +all the appearance of having been just felled, and it +is only on testing their hardness with a hammer that +one feels sure of not being mistaken. An ascent of +several large stone steps leads, on the left hand, to +the pagoda, and on the right to the residence of the +talapoins, or priests, who are three in number, a su<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 140]</a></span>perior +and two assistants, appointed to watch and +pay reverence to the precious 'rays' of Somanakodom. +Were the authors who have written about +Buddhism ignorant of the signification of the word +'ray' employed by the Buddhists? Now, in the +Siamese language the same word which means 'ray' +signifies also shadow, and it is through respect for +their deity that the first meaning is applied.</p> + +<p>"The priests were much surprised to see a 'farang' +(foreigner) in their pagoda, but some trifling gifts +soon established me in their good graces. The superior +was particularly charmed with a magnet which +I gave him, and amused himself with it for a long +time, uttering cries of delighted admiration as he saw +it attract and pick up all the little pieces of metal +which he placed near it.</p> + +<p>"I went to the extreme north of the mount, where +some generous being has kindly had constructed, for +the shelter of travellers, a hall, such as is found in +many places near pagodas. The view there is indescribably +splendid, and I cannot pretend to do justice +either with pen or pencil to the grand scenes which +here and elsewhere were displayed before my eyes. +I can but seize the general effect and some of the details; +all I can promise to do is to introduce nothing +which I have not seen. Hitherto all the views I had +seen in Siam had been limited in extent, but here +the beauty of the country is exhibited in all its splendor. +Beneath my feet was a rich and velvety carpet +of brilliant and varied colors; an immense tract of +forest, amid which the fields of rice and the unwooded +spots appeared like little streaks of green;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 141]</a></span> +beyond, the ground, rising gradually, swells into hills +of different elevations; farther still to the north and +east, in the form of a semicircle, is the mountain-chain +of Phrabat and that of the kingdom of Muang-Lôm; +and in the extreme distance those of Korat, +fully sixty miles distant. All these join one another, +and are, in fact, but a single range. But how describe +the varieties of form among all these peaks! In one +place they seem to melt into the vapory rose-tints of +the horizon, while near at hand the peculiar structure +and color of the rocks bring out more strongly the +richness of the vegetation; there, again, are deep +shadows vying with the deep blue of the heaven +above; everywhere those brilliant sunny lights, those +delicate hues, those warm tones, which make the <i>tout +ensemble</i> perfectly enchanting. The spectacle is one +which the eye of a painter can seize and revel in, but +which his brush, however skilful, can transfer most +imperfectly to his canvas.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus13" id="illus13"></a><img src="images/illus013.jpg" width="320" height="204" alt="MOUNTAINS OF KORAT FROM PATAWI." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MOUNTAINS OF KORAT FROM PATAWI.</span> +</div> + +<p>"At the sight of this unexpected panorama a cry +of admiration burst simultaneously from all mouths. +Even my poor companions, generally insensible to the +beauties of nature, experienced a moment of ecstasy +at the sublimity of the scene. 'Oh! <i>di, di!</i>' (beautiful) +cried my young Laotian guide; and when I asked +Küe what he thought of it, 'Oh! master,' he replied, +in his mixed jargon of Latin, English, and Siamese, +'the Siamese see Buddha on a stone, and do not see +God in these grand things. I am pleased to have +been to Patawi.'</p> + +<p>"On the opposite side, viz., the south, the picture +is different. Here is a vast plain, which extends<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 142]</a></span> +from the base of Patawi and the other mountains +beyond Ayuthia, whose high towers are visible in +the distance, 120 miles off. At the first glance one +distinguishes what was formerly the bed of the sea, +this great plain having taken the place of an ancient +gulf: proof of which is afforded by numerous marine +shells, many of which I collected in a perfect state of +preservation, while the rocks, with their footprints +and fossil shells, are indicative of some great change +at a still earlier period.</p> + +<p>"Every evening some of the good Laotian mountaineers +came to see the 'farang.' These Laotians differ +slightly from the Siamese: they are more slender, +have the cheek-bones more prominent, and have also +darker complexions. They wear their hair long, +while the Siamese shave half of the head, leaving the +hair to grow only on the top. They deserve praise +for their intrepidity as hunters, if they have not that +of warriors. Armed with a cutlass or bow, with +which latter weapon they adroitly launch, to a distance +of one hundred feet, balls of clay hardened in +the sun, they wander about their vast forests, undismayed +by the jaguars and tigers infesting them. +The chase is their principal amusement, and, when +they can procure a gun and a little Chinese powder, +they track the wild boar, or, lying in wait for the +tiger or the deer, perch themselves on a tree or in a +little hut raised on bamboo stakes.</p> + +<p>"Their poverty borders on misery, but it mainly +results from excessive indolence, for they will cultivate +just sufficient rice for their support; this done, +they pass the rest of their time in sleep, lounging<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 143]</a></span> +about the woods, or making excursions from one village +to another, paying visits to their friends on the +way.</p> + +<p>"At Patawi I heard much of Korat, which is the +capital of the province of the same name, situated +five days' journey northeast of Pakpriau—that is +about one hundred and twenty miles—and I determined, +if possible, to visit it by and by. It appears +to be a rich country, producing especially silk of +good quality. Caoutchouc-trees abound, but are neglected +by the inhabitants, who are probably ignorant +of their value. I brought back a magnificent specimen +of the gum, which was much admired by the English +merchants at Bangkok. Living, according to report, +is fabulously cheap: six fowls may be purchased for +a <i>fuang</i> (37 centimes), 100 eggs for the same sum, +and all other things in proportion. But to get there +one has to cross the famous forest of 'the King of +the Fire,' which is visible from the top of Patawi, +and it is only in the dry season that it is safe to attempt +this; during the rains both the water and the +atmosphere are fatally pestilential. The superstitious +Siamese do not dare to use fire-arms there, from fear +of attracting evil spirits who would kill them.</p> + +<p>"During all the time I spent on the top of the +mountain the chief priest was unremitting in his attentions +to me. He had my luggage carried into his +own room, gave me up his mats to add to mine, and +in other ways practised self-denial to make me as +comfortable as was in his power. The priests complain +much of the cold in the rainy season, and of the +torrents which then rush from the summit of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 144]</a></span> +mountain; they are also greatly disturbed by the +tigers, which, driven from the plains by the inundations, +take refuge on the high ground, and carry +away their dogs and fowls out of the very houses. +But their visits are not confined to that period of the +year. About ten o'clock on the second night of my +stay the dogs suddenly began to utter plaintive +howls. 'A tiger! a tiger!' cried my Laotian, who +was lying near me. I started up, seized my gun, and +half opened the door; but the profound darkness +made it impossible to see anything, or to go out +without uselessly exposing myself. I therefore contented +myself with firing off my gun to frighten the +creature. The next morning we found one of our +dogs gone.</p> + +<p>"We scoured the neighborhood for about a week, +and then set off once more by water for Bangkok, as +I wished to put my collections in order and send +them off.</p> + +<p>"The places which two months previously had been +deep in water were now dry, and everywhere around +their dwellings the people were digging their gardens +and beginning to plant vegetables. The horrible mosquitoes +had reappeared in greater swarms than ever, +and I pitied my poor servants, who, after rowing all +day, could obtain no rest at night.</p> + +<p>"During the day, especially in the neighborhood +of Pakpriau, the heat was intense, the thermometer +being ordinarily at 90° Fahrenheit (28° Reaumur) in +the shade, and 140° Fahrenheit (49° Reaumur) in the +sun. Luckily, we had no longer to contend with the +current, and our boat, though heavily laden, proceeded<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 145]</a></span> +rapidly. We were about three hours' sail from Bangkok, +when I perceived a couple of European boats, and +in a room built for travellers near a pagoda I recognized +three English captains of my acquaintance, one +of whom had brought me to Singapore. They were, +with their wives, enjoying a picnic, and, on seeing me, +insisted on my joining them and partaking of the +repast.</p> + +<p>"I reached Bangkok the same day, and was still uncertain +as to a lodging, when M. Wilson, the courteous +Danish consul, came to me, and kindly offered +the hospitality of his magnificent house.</p> + +<p>"I consider the part of the country which I had +just passed through extremely healthy, except, perhaps, +during the rains. It appears that in this season +the water, flowing down from the mountains and passing +over a quantity of poisonous detritus, becomes impregnated +with mineral substances, gives out pestilential +miasmata, and causes the terrible jungle-fever, +which, if it does not at once carry off the victim, +leaves behind it years of suffering. My journey, as +has been seen, took place at the end of the rainy season +and when the floods were subsiding; some deleterious +exhalations, doubtless, still escaped, and I saw +several natives attacked with intermittent fever, but +I had not had an hour's illness. Ought I to attribute +this immunity to the regimen I observed, and which +had been strongly recommended to me—abstinence, +all but total, from wine and spirits, and drinking only +tea, never cold water? I think so; and I believe by +such a course one is in no great danger."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 146]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2> + +<h3>FROM BANGKOK TO CHANTABOUN—A MISSIONARY +JOURNEY IN 1835</h3> + + +<p>For many years the region on the eastern shore +of the gulf has been more or less familiar to +the foreign residents in Bangkok. So long ago as +1835 the Protestant missionaries explored and +mapped out, with a good degree of accuracy, the +coast line from the mouth of the Meinam to the +mouth of the Chantaboun River. Extracts from the +journal of Dr. Bradley, a pioneer among American +missionaries in Siam, give an interesting sketch of +the country as it was, as well as of the modes of +travel many years ago, and the beginnings of the +civilization in which, since that time, Siam has made +such extraordinary progress.</p> + +<p>Dr. Bradley, accompanied by another missionary +and wife, made his journey in the first vessel ever +built in Siam on a European model. A young nobleman, +who has since then become very distinguished +by reason of his interest in scientific pursuits +of every kind, and his attainments in various +branches of knowledge, had built at Chantaboun a +brig which he had named the Ariel, and was +about returning from Bangkok to that port. With +the liberality and kindness by which his conduct<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 147]</a></span> +toward the missionaries has always been characterized, +he invited Dr. Bradley and his colleague to +be his guests on the return voyage. Dr. Bradley +thus speaks of the Ariel.</p> + +<p>"Went aboard of the brig Ariel to have a look at +the first square-rigged vessel ever made in Siam, +and brought up a few days since from Chantaboun +to present to the king. Considering that this is the +first essay made in this country to imitate European +ship-building, that the young nobleman had but +poor models, if any, to guide him, and that all his +knowledge of ship-building has been gathered by +here and there an observation of foreign vessels in +port, this brig certainly reflects very great credit on +his creative genius. Not only this, but other facts +also indicate that the young nobleman is endowed +with an uncommonly capacious mind for a Siamese. +It appears that he is building at Chantaboun several +vessels of from 300 to 400 tons burthen. His wife +has just left our house, having spent the evening +with Mrs. B. She possesses many interesting qualities, +and, like her husband, is fond of the society of +Europeans and Americans. Her attendants were +three or four females who paddled the sampan in +which she came, and carried her betel-box and other +accompaniments. They remained at the door in a +crouching posture, while their mistress visited Mrs. +B. Her dress consisted of a phanung of ordinary +cloth, a Birmese jacket of crimson crape, a scarlet +sash of the same material, and a leaden-colored +shawl of the richest damask silk."</p> + +<p>All preparations being made for the excursion, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 148]</a></span> +an abundant supply of Christian tracts laid in for distribution +among the natives as opportunity might +offer, Dr. Bradley's narrative continues, under date of +November 12, 1835:</p> + +<p>"One of the most delightful mornings I have seen +since I left my dear native land. While the brig Ariel +floated down with the tide, I called upon my brethren +in company with my wife, when I took leave of her +for the first time since we were married. The brig +had made more progress than we were aware, which +subjected us to the inconvenience of overtaking her in +an open boat under a burning sun. She was under full +press of sail before we reached her, but with much exertion +on our part to inspire our paddlers to lay out +more strength, by crying out in Chinese tongue <i>qui +qui</i>, and in the Siamese <i>reow reow</i>, and by a full-souled +response on their part, we reached the brig at +12 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> We were somewhat disappointed in finding +the cabin exclusively occupied by the mother and sisters +of Luang Nai Sit, who being high in rank as females, +must of course have the best accommodations +on board. The mother is allied to the royal family, +and consequently ranks higher than her husband, the +p'rak'lang, though he is one of the first in point +of office, being commander-in-chief of the Siamese +forces, and prime-minister of foreign affairs. But +Luang Nai Sit did all he could to make us comfortable +on deck, spreading a double awning over us, one +of thin canvas, and the other of attap leaves. Our +pride was somewhat uncomfortably tried by finding +ourselves dependent upon K'oon Klin, the wife of +Luang Nai Sit, for the common comforts of shipboard.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 149]</a></span> +But it is due to her and her husband to say that they +were both very polite, and evidently regretted that +they could not then make us perfectly comfortable. +They anxiously encouraged us with the promise that +after a little time they would have matters in a better +state, saving that their mother and sisters would leave +the brig at Paknam, and give us the occupancy of the +cabin.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus14" id="illus14"></a><img src="images/illus014.jpg" width="320" height="209" alt="PORT OF CHANTABOUN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">PORT OF CHANTABOUN.</span> +</div> + +<p>"The more I dwell upon it the more I am interested +in the Providence that has brought us on board +this vessel. But it may be asked, What is there peculiarly +interesting in it? Why, here is a new Siamese +brig, recently presented to the king of Siam, as +the first specimen of a successful imitation of European +ship-building, on her first voyage, volunteered +by one of the first men in the kingdom to bear a company +of missionaries to a province of Siam, carrying +the everlasting gospel to a people who have never +heard it, and who, to use the expression of the nobleman +who has volunteered to take us thither, 'have no +God, no religion, and greatly need the labors of missionaries +among them.'</p> + +<p>"On awaking the next morning, I find that we are +lying at anchor opposite Paknam, where the mother +and sisters of our noble friend are to disembark. It +is truly affecting to witness the kind attentions of +Luang Nai Sit, and to observe how ready he is to +anticipate our wants, and prepare to meet them. +Last evening, while we were singing, a company of native +singers removed their seats at the forecastle, and +sitting down near to us, began to bawl out in the native +style. Luang Nai Sit soon came to us and re<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 150]</a></span>quested +that we should go to the upper deck, and take +seats which he had prepared for us, saying, 'There is +too much confusion for you to stay here; go up +yonder, and bless God undisturbed.'</p> + +<p>"These native singers, I am informed, are now +practising with a view to sing to the white elephant +at Chantaboun. They sang many times a day, of +which I have become heartily sick.</p> + +<p>"We weighed anchor very early in the morning of +the 14th, and sailed with the tide in our favor for the +bar. We were interested in witnessing the outgushings +of maternal and filial affection of the noble relatives +just before we sailed from Paknam. Luang +Nai Sit exhibited much of it on parting with his +mother, and she was tenderly moved on taking leave +of her son and grandchildren. [One of the latter +was a little boy, who afterward became prime minister +and minister of war.] We noticed that their +tears were allowed to flow only in the cabin, out of +sight of their slaves. On deck, and when in the act +of parting, they were solemn and perfectly composed. +A little after sunrise we came in sight of the mountains +of Keo, which to me was a peculiarly gratifying +sight. I had for months sighed after something of +the kind to interrupt the dead monotony of Bangkok. +There, do what you may by the means of telescopes +and towers, you will discover nothing but one unbroken +plain."</p> + +<p>We condense Dr. Bradley's journal from this point, +omitting unnecessary details of the voyage:</p> + +<p>"Arose at four in the morning of the 15th, and +found that we were at anchor a little south of the Keo<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 151]</a></span> +Mountains, having Koh Chang or See Chang on the +west, eight miles distant, and the coast of See Maha +Racha on the east, five miles distant. I know not +when I have been so delighted with natural scenery +as at this time. Not a cloud was seen in the heavens. +The moon walked in brightness amid myriads of +twinkling suns and shining worlds. A balmy and +gentle breeze just ruffled the bosom of the deep. The +wonted confusion of the deck was perfectly hushed. +Lofty mountains and a rugged and romantic coast +darkened the eastern horizon. At five o'clock Luang +Nai Sit invited us to go ashore with him. We readily +accepted the invitation and accompanied our friend to +the village of See Maha Racha, attended by his bodyguard, +armed with guns, swords, and lances. The +scenery, as the dawn brightened, was most exhilarating. +The mountains, hills, and plains were covered +with vegetation in the liveliest green, with here and +there a cultivated spot. As we approached the settlement +from the west, at our right was a rock-bound +coast. Just in the background of this, and parallel +with it, was an admirably undulated ridge, which +seemed to be composed of hill rolled close upon hill. +At our left were islands of lofty white-capped rocks. +Further removed, at the east, were mountains towering +behind mountains. Before us was an extensive +plain bounded with mountains far in the distance. +We reached the village a little after sunrise, which +we found to contain three hundred or four hundred +souls, chiefly Siamese. It was a matter of not a little +regret that we had no tracts to give them. The people +seemed to live in somewhat of a tidy manner, not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 152]</a></span> +very unlike a poor villager in our own country. Still +their houses were built of bamboo, and elevated, according +to the Siamese custom, as on stilts. We +called at several houses, and found the females engaged +in eating their rice. We attempted to penetrate +the jungle behind the settlement, but did not go +far, as there seemed to be but little prospect that we +should descry other settlements.</p> + +<p>"Having spent a part of an hour in surveying the +village, we followed our honorable guide along the +beach, among immense ferruginous and quartz rocks +having apparently been undermined by the restless +ocean, and these were interlaid with small seashells +of great variety. On the one hand we had the music +of the roaring tide, on the other an admirable jungle, +overhanging the beach from the east, and thus protecting +us from the blaze of the rising sun, while the +air was perfumed with many a flower. Several boatloads +of Luang Nai Sit's retinue soon came off the +brig to the shore, which composed a company of +fifty or more. At length a boat came loaded with provisions +for a picnic breakfast, all cooked and duly arranged +on salvers. The whole company (ourselves +excepted) sat down on the beach in three classes, and +there partook of the repast with a keen relish. Luang +Nai Sit and his brothers ate by themselves; the women, +consisting of K'oon Klin, or wife of the chief, +and her children and other high blood attendants, ate +by themselves. After these had finished their breakfast, +the multitude of dependents messed together. +Meanwhile the natives of the village and vicinity +flocked in, loaded with plantains, red peppers, ceri<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 153]</a></span>leaves, +cocoanuts, jack-fruit, etc., and presented them +as tokens of respect to the son of their lord, the +p'rak'lang, and to him they bowed and worshipped on +their hands and knees. At 10 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> we returned to the +brig in an uncovered boat, in company with K'oon +Klin and her train. Luang Nai Sit could not, of +course, return in the same boat with the women, as it +would be a violation of Siamese custom. He came +in another boat behind us. The sun was very powerful, +and that, together with the crowd and confusion +of the company in the absence of their chief, quite +overcame me in my feebleness of health.</p> + +<p>"At 11 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> our anchor was again weighed, and +we sailed very pleasantly before a gentle breeze, being +continually in full sight of the mainland at our +left, and the islands of Koh Kram, Sewalan, and a +number of others on our right. The former is noted +for the quantities of turtles which are caught on its +coasts, the latter is a cluster of verdant spots, probably +uninhabited by man. Much of the mainland +which we have as yet passed is mountainous, diversified +with extensive plains, and covered with lofty +timber. With the aid of the brig's telescope we descried +several villages on the shore."</p> + +<p>After beating about for a night and a day in a good +deal of uncertainty and some peril (for the Siamese +officers and crew were unskilful navigators), "we were +not a little disappointed on the morning of the 18th +in supposing that we were entering the mouth of Chantaboun +River, which proved to be but a passage between +the island of Semet and the main coast. It +seems that we have been beating for this passage be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 154]</a></span>tween +thirty and forty hours, and but a few miles +from it all the time. The scenery about this place is +quite charming, combining much of the romantic with +the beautiful. Have sailed twenty or thirty miles this +afternoon in full sight of the coast, passing many small +islands, which have given us a very pleasing variety. +Much of the coast is level near the sea, with towering +mountains, several miles distant. One island which we +passed near by is worthy of some notice. It is quite +small, composed of rocks, which rise sixty or eighty +feet above the water, and crowned with pleasant shrubbery. +It has a wing extending out fifty feet or more, +which is about thirty feet high, and through this there +is a natural tunnel, having much the appearance of an +artificial arch of stone, and apparently large enough to +allow a common-sized boat to pass. Hence the islet is +called Koh Lŏŏ.</p> + +<p>"On the morning of the 19th, the curtains of a +tempestuous night having been removed, very much +to our joy we found that we were in sight of our desired +haven, and we enjoyed much interesting scenery +while tossing about during the day. There are many +bold islands in this vicinity, with rocky bases, and +crowned with luxuriant vegetation. Koh Ch'ang lies +fifteen or twenty miles south of us. It is a large island, +with lofty peaks, and it is said to be famous for +elephants and that there are several thousand souls +upon it. Prit Prote are three small islands, interesting +only as affording pleasant objects to the eye of +the naturalist. Koh Nom Low is a very curious pinnacle +near the entrance into the mouth of Chantaboun +River. With a small base, it rises out of the sea prob<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 155]</a></span>ably +four hundred feet. The mouth of the river is admirably +guarded by an arm of a mountain ridge, +which extends out into the sea and embraces the harbor, +which is also artificially protected by two batteries. +The coast extends east by southeast. That part +of it east of the river, in the immediate vicinity of the +sea, is level, low, and covered with a thick jungle. +The main body of the trees appear low, having interspersed +among them many tall trees, with here and +there small hills, handsomely attired. Parallel with +this coast, and apparently ten miles from the sea, the +mountain Sal Bap towers into the clouds, and stretches +a long way to the north and to the south. The coast +west of the river is rugged and mountainous. In the +apparent direction of the river there are several sublime +peaks. As far as the eye can command, vegetation +appears luxuriant, but is quite different from that +of Bangkok. The cocoanut palm, which is the queen +of all the jungles in that vicinity, is not to be seen +here. The appearance of the water about the mouth +of this river is perfectly clear, while that of the Meinam +is extremely turbid."</p> + +<p>At this point the missionaries' Siamese friend left +them and proceeded in advance to Chantaboun. On +the day following, November 21st, "he sent back a +small junk for us, which we gladly accepted, and +took passage in her, starting in the morning, and expected +of course that we should arrive at our destination +early in the evening. But almost every rod of +our way seemed beset with extraordinary obstacles. +In the first place, we had a strong contrary wind to +contend with, which obliged us to beat till late in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 156]</a></span> +afternoon with but little success. In the early evening +the breeze became gentle, when, with great entreaty +on our part, our boatmen were induced to take +to their oars. Presently we found a strong current +against us, and within the next half hour our boat +touched the bottom of the channel and became immovable +in the mud. Now it seemed certain that +instead of reaching our destination early in the evening, +as we had hoped, we should be under the necessity +of staying aboard of our craft all night, exposed +to the inclemency of the night air, and with +but a scanty supply of food. It was well that we had +taken a late breakfast, for a cup of tea with sea +bread and cheese had to suffice both for our dinner +and supper. With these we satisfied the cravings of +hunger, being, I trust, thankful to God that we were +so well fed. Having taken our frugal supper we +sought for places to lodge ourselves for the night. +As for a cabin, of course there was none in such a +junk. There were <i>holds</i>, but they were filled with +luggage. My fellow-travellers preferred to seek +their rest on the open deck in a half-reclining posture, +wrapped up in their cloaks. I found a place in +the 'hinder part of the ship' just large enough to lie +down in, where I spread my mattress and tried to +sleep. About midnight the tide rose and bore our +junk away from the mud. But it was only a little +time when it was announced by a singular scraping +on our boat's bottom, and by a tremendous scolding +of a party of Chinamen whom we had met, that we +had found another obstacle. It was soon revealed +that we had got entangled in a fish-net belonging to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 157]</a></span> +the Chinamen. Here we were detained an hour or +more in efforts to disengage our boat from the ropes +of the fish-net. After this was done I know not +what other impediments we met with, for I fell into +a sleep.</p> + +<p>"At 4 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span> it was announced that we had arrived +at our destination. We shook off our slumbers and +looked out, and behold our junk was anchored in +front of a house with open doors, literally, and windows +without shutters, while a piercing, chilling +wind was whistling through it. It proved to be, not +in Chantaboun, but several miles below it at a Siamese +dockyard. As all our boatmen had gone ashore, +and we were left without a guide, we determined to +'stick to the ship' till full day, and accordingly lay +down and took another nap. When we arose early +in the morning we were surprised to learn that +Luang Nai Sit and his retinue had lodged in that +bleak house the night before, and had gone up the +river to Chantaboun, and that this was the place he +designed to have us occupy while we sojourned in +this part of Siam. This house assigned to us here is +situated over the water, exposed to the strong north +winds that blow from the opposite side of the river. +It is built of bamboo slats and small poles, so as to +operate as a kind of sieve for the bleak winds. The +most of the floor is also of bamboo slats, and admits +strong currents of air through them, while the waves +are both heard and seen dashing beneath them. The +roof is made of attap leaves, which rattle like hail +in the wind. The best rooms in the house, two in +number, are enclosed with bamboo slats and lined<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 158]</a></span> +with cajung. These were politely assigned to us by +our kind friend, who is ever ready to deny himself to +oblige us. This would be a delightfully cool place in +the spring and summer months, but at this season of +the year it is unpleasantly chilly.</p> + +<p>"This place has no importance, only what is connected +with the ship-building carried on here. +There are now on the stocks not less than fifty vessels, +consisting of two ships of three hundred or four +hundred tons burden, thirty or forty war-boats or +junks, and a number of smaller craft."</p> + +<p>On the following day the missionaries made an +excursion up the river as high as the p'rak'lang's establishment, +where "we left our boat and proceeded +by land two or three miles to Bang Ka Chah. The +river up to the place where we left it is exceedingly +serpentine, the banks being low and overflowed by +the tides, and covered with an impenetrable jungle +of low timber.</p> + +<p>"As we drew near the p'rak'lang's there appeared +pleasant fields of paddy, and at a distance a beautiful +acclivity partially cleared, around which government +is building extensive fortifications. The works +are rapidly advancing. The circumference of the +enclosure when finished will not vary much from two +miles. The embankment is forty feet above the +surface of the ground, and the depth of the ditch on +the outside will increase it six feet. The earth is of +a remarkably red color, and gives the embankment +the appearance of solid brick. This is to be surrounded +by a breastwork six feet high, with portholes, +and made of brick literally dug out of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 159]</a></span> +earth, which, a few feet from the surface, possesses +the consistence of brick that had been a little dried +in the sun. Blocks eighteen inches in length, nine +in breadth, and six in thickness, are cut out by +Chinamen and Malays, which, with a little smoothing, +are prepared for laying into the wall.</p> + +<p>"We were objects of great curiosity to the natives. +Our <i>passport</i> was only to tell them that we came +from Bangkok in Koon Sit's brig, and this was perfectly +satisfactory. With the idea that Bang Ka +Chah was but a little way onward, we continued to +walk, being very much exhilarated by the sight of +palmy plains, palmy hills and extensive rice plantations. +The country appeared to have a first-rate soil, +and to be very extensively cultivated. The paddy +fields were heavy laden and well filled. It was harvest +time. In one direction you might see reapers; +in another gatherers of the sheaves; in another +threshers; one with his buffaloes treading out the +grain, another with his bin and rack, against which +he was beating the sheaves. The lots were divided +by foot-paths merely, consisting of a little ridge +thrown up by the farmers.</p> + +<p>"In Bang Ka Chah we found a settlement of four +thousand or more Chinese. Our guide conducted us +to a comfortable house, where, much to my comfort, +we were offered a place to lie down, and presented +with tea and fruit. We had not been in the place +ten minutes before we had attracted around us hundreds +of men, women, and children, who were as +eager to examine us Americans as the latter once +were to examine the Siamese twins. The inhabitants<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 160]</a></span> +appeared remarkably healthy. I could not discover +a sickly countenance among them. There were +many very aged people. Children were particularly +abundant and interesting. How inviting a harvest, +thought I, is here for the future missionary. The +houses are mostly built of brick after the common +style of Chinese architecture. The streets are crooked, +narrow, and filthy. At 4 o'clock, <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, we returned +to the house of Luang Nai Sit, who lives near his +father, the p'rak'lang, where we were refreshed with a +good dinner, after which we took to our boats and +arrived at our lodgings at seven o'clock in the evening.</p> + +<p>"We have made an excursion to the town of +Chantaboun. It is about nine miles from the +place where we stay, being on the main branch of +the river, while Bang Ka Chah is on a smaller one. +After we passed the p'rak'lang's, there was much to +be seen that was in no small degree interesting. The +river was from sixty to eighty yards wide, apparently +deep and exceedingly serpentine. The banks +were generally cleared of wild timber, gently elevated, +uniformly smooth, and cultivated. As we +approached Chantaboun, the margin of the river was +most charmingly graced with clumps of the bamboo, +and several fields were bounded with the same tree. +We passed not far from the foot of the lofty mountain +Sah Bap, from which point we could also see +several other mountains. The top of one was lost in +the clouds. Near Chantaboun the river is quite +lined on one side with Siamese war-junks on the +stocks. The reigning passion of the government at +present is to make preparations in this section of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 161]</a></span> +their country for defence against the Cochin-Chinese, +and for aggressions against the same if need be.</p> + +<p>"We reached Chantaboun at 2 P.M. The natives +discovering us as we drew near their place, +congregated by scores on the banks of the river to +look at us. They were exceedingly excited, the +children particularly, and scarcely knew how to contain +themselves. Some ran with all their might to +proclaim in the most animated manner to the inhabitants +ahead that we were coming. Others jumped +up and down, laughing and hallooing most merrily. +We preferred to pass up the river to the extreme +end of the town before we landed, that in coming +down by land we might form some estimate of the +amount of the inhabitants. The town is situated on +both sides of the stream, which is probably eighty +yards wide. As we passed along we observed one +of the most pleasant situations occupied by a Roman +Catholic chapel. Its appearance, together with some +peculiarities in the inhabitants, led us to think that +the Catholics had got a strong foothold here. We +saw only four Siamese priests and no temples. The +houses on the river were built principally of bamboo +and attap. They were small, elevated five or six feet +above the ground, and wore the aspect of old age. +The ground on which the town is situated rises gently +from the river and is a dry and sandy loam. There +were a number of middling-sized junks lying in the +river, which proves that the stream is sufficiently +deep to admit of the passage of such craft.</p> + +<p>"Having reached the farthest extremity of the +place, we landed and walked down the principal<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 162]</a></span> +street. We were thronged with wondering multitudes, +who were Cochin, Tachu, and Hokien-Chinese, +with only here and there a Siamese. The inhabitants +looked healthy, and were more perfectly dressed than +we usually observe in heathen villages in this climate. +The day being far spent we could not prolong our stay +more than one hour. When we got into our boat to +return the people literally surrounded us, although it +was in the water. Some stood in the river waist-deep +to get a look at the lady of the party, and petitioned +that she should rise from her seat, that they might see +how tall she was. As we pushed out into the river the +multitudes shouted most heartily. There cannot be +less than eight thousand or ten thousand souls in +Chantaboun, and probably thousands in the immediate +vicinity.</p> + +<p>"On our return we stopped at Luang Nai Sit's, and +spent an hour or more. In looking about the premises +we heedlessly entered a large bamboo house, +where to our surprise we saw a monster of an elephant, +and his excellency, the p'rak'lang, who beckoned +to us to enter and directed us to seats. We +learned that this elephant was denominated white, +and seemed to be an object of great religious veneration. +He was as far from being white as black. +There appeared to be a little white powder sprinkled +upon his back. He was fastened to a post, and a man +was feeding him with paddy-grass.</p> + +<p>"All the days that we have been in this place have +been very uncomfortably cold. We have not only +wanted winter clothes, but have found ourselves most +comfortable when wrapped up in our cloaks till the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 163]</a></span> +middle and sometimes till after the middle of the day. +The natives shiver like the aspen leaf, and they act +much as an American in the coldest winter day. The +northeast monsoon sweeps over the mountains, and I +think produces a current downward from that high +and cool region of air, which retains nearly its temperature +till after it has passed this place.</p> + +<p>"It seems that there are a great number of settlements, +within the circumference of a few miles, as +large as Bang Ka Chah; that the country is admirably +watered by three rivers; and that the soil is rich +and peculiarly adapted to the growth of pepper, of +which large quantities are raised. There is a small +mountain near by, where it is said diamonds are procured. +At Bang Ka Chah there is a remarkable +cave in a mountain. The country intervening between +Bang Ka Chah and Thamai is under a high +state of cultivation, being almost exclusively occupied +by Chinamen, who cultivate rice, tobacco, pepper, +etc. The face of the country is pleasantly undulated. +Thamai contains four hundred or five hundred +souls, chiefly Chinese. Nung Boah lies east +from this place about four miles by the course of the +river. It is not a condensed settlement, but an agricultural +and horticultural district, with thirty or +forty dwellings, perhaps, on every square mile. It +is situated on a large plain, a little distance from the +foot of the mount Sah Bap. Not more than a quarter +of the land is cultivated, while the remainder is +covered with small and scrubby junglewood. Multitudes +of charming flowers lined both sides of the +paths as we walked from one farm to another; and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 164]</a></span> +many a bird was seen of beautiful plumage and some +of pleasant note. The graceful tops of cocoanut +trees we found a never-failing sign of a human dwelling, +and sometimes of a cluster of them. The land +is almost wholly occupied by Tachu-Chinese; a few +of them have Siamese wives, the remainder are single +men. They cultivate but small portions of land, +which they bring under a high state of improvement. +They raise chiefly sugar-cane, pepper, and tobacco. +The soil, being a rich loam, is well adapted to the +culture of these articles, as well as of a great variety +of horticultural plants.</p> + +<p>"We have continued our surveys to the southeast +of this place, and visited Plieoo, a settlement +south of Nung Boah. We left our boat at Barn-Chowkow, +which is a settlement of Siamese, consisting +of about sixty families living in a very rural, +and, for a Siamese, a very comfortable style, in the +midst of groves of cocoanuts, interspersed with many +a venerable jungle-tree. On either side of a gentle +elevation on which their houses are scattered along a +line of half a mile, are rice-fields far surpassing in +excellence any I had before seen. The grain was +nearly all out, and a large proportion of it gathered. +They need no barns, and therefore have none. At +this season of the year they have no rains to trouble +them. The rice is threshed by buffaloes. All the +preparation that is necessary for this is to smooth +and harden a circle of ground 30 feet in diameter, +and set a post in its centre. Siamese carts have +wheels not less than twenty-five feet in circumference, +set four or five feet apart, with a small rack in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 164]</a></span> +which the sheaves are placed. These are drawn by +a yoke of buffaloes. The person who loads the cart +guides the team by means of ropes, which are fastened +to the septum of their nostrils by hooks.</p> + +<p>"At Plieoo we first went into a blacksmith's shop, +where four Chinamen were employed. The master +was very polite and did all he could think of to make +us comfortable. He prepared his couch for us to rest +upon, got us a cup of tea, etc. We gave him one of +the histories of Christ, for which he was abundantly +thankful. We next went to the market, where we +disposed of a few books. Entering into the house of +a Chinaman, we were surprised to find three Siamese +priests. The master of the house had prepared a +very neat dinner for one of his clerical guests, and +was just in the act of sitting down on the floor to eat, +as we entered. There was a frown on his brow as he +saw us approach. Although he could read, he utterly +refused to receive a tract. Being much in want of +some refreshment, I proposed that he should let me +have a dish of rice. He refused. I still pleaded for +a little, but he was determined that I should not be +fed from the same table with his priest. After a +little time we returned to our good friend the blacksmith, +and merely suggested to him our want of +food. The aged, hospitable man seemed very happy +that he could have an opportunity to render us such +kindness and hastened to prepare us a dinner. He +went himself to market and purchased a variety of +articles for our comfort. The table was soon well +supplied with rice, eggs, greens, and various nameless +Chinese nick-nacks.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 166]</a></span></p> + +<p>"In the village of Plieoo there are only a few hundred +souls, who are mostly Tachu-Chinese, and cannot +read. Their wives are Siamese. We conclude, +from what we were able to learn, that the vicinity is +densely populated."</p> + +<p>The voyage back to Bangkok was comfortably +made in a small junk furnished by Luang Nai Sit, +and in company with his brother-in-law, an agreeable +and intelligent Siamese. Dr. Bradley continues:</p> + +<p>"We have in tow an elegant boat, designed probably +for some one of the nobles at Bangkok. It was +manufactured at Semetgaan. The Siamese possess +superior skill in making these boats. They have the +very best materials the world can afford for such purposes. +The boats consist generally of but one piece.</p> + +<p>"A large tree is taken and scooped out in the form +of a trough. By some process, I know not what, the +sides are then sprung outward, which draws the extremities +into a beautiful curve upward. After this +is done the boat is admirably wrought and trimmed. +The one we have in tow is about sixty feet in length +and five in breadth. Compared with many it is quite +small. I have seen not a few that were nearly a +hundred feet long and from six to eight feet wide, +made in the way I have above described.</p> + +<p>"[Not long after the above was written, the writer +learned that these boats are swelled out in their mid-ships +by means of fire, and that the curves of their +bows and sterns are increased by means of pieces of +the same kind of timber so neatly fitted and firmly +joined as to appear on a distant examination to be a +continuation of the body of the boat.]<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 167]</a></span></p> + +<p>"On the morning of December 16th we were passing +between Koh Samet and Sem Yah. After we +passed this our course lay west-northwest to another +cape called Sah Wa Larn. The wind was favorable +but light, and we were becalmed in the heat of the +day four hours or more. The heat was excessively +oppressive. No shade on deck and my cabin a small +place, not large enough to admit of my standing upright. +Our vessel has been rowed much of the afternoon +for the want of wind. Cast anchor just at +evening a little east of Sah Wa Larn, having made +less than twenty miles during the day. The coast +about Lem Sing is very picturesque. West of this, +till you come to Sah Wa Larn, it is uniformly level. +The land appears to be entirely uncultivated. The +forests are composed of large timber, their tops presenting +a very uniform surface. I have much cause +for gratitude to God that I find in my companion, +Soot Chin Dah, a very attentive friend. He is desirous +to render me all the assistance he can in acquiring +the Siamese language, in which I hope I am +making some proficiency by engaging with him in +conversation.</p> + +<p>"The scene between Koh Arat and Koh Yai, in +the midst of which we were at anchor the next morning, +is most charming. The distance from one to +the other is about one mile. Arat is a small island +rising very abruptly many hundred feet above the +sea. At the top is a rock of a conical form, which +seems on the point of rolling down with a tremendous +crash into the sea. Koh Yai is a much larger +island, and hence its name. A little before us was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 168]</a></span> +the cape Samaasarn, shielded against the sea by immense +white rocks. Just as the sun was rising Soot +Chin Dah invited me to accompany him to Koh Yai +for a morning exercise. Our fine boat was manned +with nineteen men, and we went off in princely +style. We coasted some distance and then landed; +whence we walked a long way, first on a sandy +beach and then among rocks composed of marine +shells interlaid with coral and shells of infinite variety. +The land was all one unbroken jungle. +Much of the small timber was of a thorny kind, +which seemed to bid defiance to human invasion. +Our men were chiefly engaged in picking up shells +suitable for gambling purposes. On our return we +touched at Arat, where I amused myself a little time +in climbing around craggy and stupendous rocks. +After two hours we returned to our junk well prepared +for breakfast. The hired cook, which Luang +Nai Sit had the goodness to provide for me, had my +food all ready, consisting of a broiled chicken, salt +and fresh eggs, and rice with tea. Soot Chin Dah +eats by himself, sometimes in one place and sometimes +in another. His food is very neatly served for +him in a circular wooden tray. It is prepared by a +Portuguese cook, and served by his inferior brother. +When he is done eating, his brother, serang, assistant +serang, and cook eat of the remainder, sitting +on the deck. They use neither knife, fork, nor +spoon, their fingers serving the purposes of these instruments. +The helmsman and his mate, who are +masters of the junk, and country-born Portuguese, +eat by themselves in the style of the Siamese. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 169]</a></span> +crew clan together in eating according to their nameless +distinctions. Their main dependence is rice and +fish. The former they eat out of the bark of a plantain +tree rolled up at the sides and one end in the +shape of a scoop shovel, or out of a most filthy-looking +basket or cocoanut shell. There are three females +on board who eat in the hold, where they remain +almost constantly from morning to night. In +the evening they come out to enjoy the fresh air, +and have a most voluble chat with the men.</p> + +<p>"About noon we anchored close to the shore of +Sem Poo Chow, which is an abrupt and lofty promontory. +Here three wild hogs made their appearance. +Having looked upon us a few minutes they disappeared. +It seemed wonderful that they could inhabit +such a bluff, for a misstep would plunge them into +the abyss below.</p> + +<p>"On the evening of the 19th our captain ordered +the anchor to be dropped, as we were on the bar at +the mouth of the Meinam River, eight or ten miles +from Paknam. We have had a good view of every +mile of the coast along which we have passed to-day, +and I may with but little qualification say the same +of all the coast between this and Chantaboun. The +coast north of Bangplasoi is low, without so much as +a rock or hill to break the evenness of the jungle. +We saw distinctly the entrance of Bangpakong River, +its mouth appearing as large as that of the Meinam. +I have spent much of this day in finishing charts of +Chantaboun and the coast from thence to Paknam."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 170]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2> + +<h3>CHANTABOUN AND THE GULF.</h3> + + +<p>Since the date of the missionary journey recorded +in the last chapter Chantaboun has become a +place of considerable commercial importance, being +now the second port in the kingdom, noted for its +ship-building and fisheries and carrying on an active +export trade from Cambodia and the south-eastern +provinces. The government regards the place as one +of its chief cities, and has fortified the port at great +expense. The prosperity and value of this province +have improved since Mouhot's time, an account of +whose visit there will afford an idea of its physical +features and life.</p> + +<p>M. Mouhot, it should be explained by way of introduction, +was one of the most competent and gifted +explorers of modern times. A Frenchman by birth, +he became allied by his marriage with an Englishwoman +to the family of Mungo Park, the famous +African explorer. He was a faithful student of natural +science, devoting himself especially to ornithology +and conchology. While still a young man he +travelled extensively in Russia, and there learned to +speak both Russian and Polish. He was a good +draughtsman and a practical photographer of large +and varied experience; but more than all he was pos<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 171]</a></span>sessed +of an adventurous and enthusiastic spirit, +which welcomed danger when it came in the pursuit +of scientific data, and which, together with his great +bodily strength and physical constitution, especially +fitted him for the life of an explorer. Mouhot's own +creed was Protestant, but he was a man of such +amiability and broad sympathies as to win the cordial +affection of both Protestant and Catholic missionaries +in the regions where he travelled. He was a man of +devout and religious heart, and almost the last words +of his journal, written while he was dying in the +jungles of Laos, breathe a spirit of Christian faith +and reliance on the love of God. His loss in the +prime of manhood was severely felt by the scientific +world as well as by those who were bound to him by +ties of kinship or of personal acquaintance.</p> + +<p>The following are Mouhot's experiences at Chantaboun +and among the islands of the gulf:</p> + +<p>"My intention now was to visit Cambodia, but for +this my little river boat was of no use. The only way +of going to Chantaboun was by embarking in one of +the small Chinese junks or fishing vessels, which I accordingly +did on the 28th of December, taking with +me a new servant, called Niou, a native of Annam, +and who, having been brought up at the college of +the Catholic priests at Bangkok, knew French well +enough to be very useful to me as an interpreter. The +boat was inconveniently small, and we were far from +comfortable; for, besides myself and servant, there +were on board two men and two children about thirteen. +I was much pleased with the picturesque aspect +of all the little islands in the gulf; but our voyage<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 172]</a></span> +was far longer than we expected, three days being its +usual duration, while, owing to a strong head-wind, it +occupied us for eight. We met with an accident which +was fatal to one of our party, and might have been +so to all of us. On the night of the 31st of December +our boat was making rapid way under the influence of +a violent wind. I was seated on the little roof of leaves +and interlaced bamboo which formed a sort of protection +to me against the rain and cold night air, bidding +adieu to the departing year, and welcoming in +the new; praying that it might be a fortunate one +for me, and, above all, that it might be full of blessings +for all those dear to me. The night was dark; +we were about two miles from land, and the mountains +loomed black in the distance. The sea alone was +brilliant with that phosphoric light so familiar to all +voyagers on the deep. For a couple of hours we had +been followed by two sharks, who left behind them a +luminous and waving track. All was silent in our boat; +nothing was to be heard but the wind whistling among +the rigging and the rushing of the waves: and I felt +at that midnight hour—alone, and far from all I loved—a +sadness which I vainly tried to shake off, and a +disquietude which I could not account for. Suddenly +we felt a violent shock, immediately followed by a +second, and then the vessel remained stationary. +Every one cried out in alarm; the sailors rushed forward; +in a moment the sail was furled and torches +lighted, but, sad to say, one of our number did not answer +to his name. One of the young boys, who had +been asleep on deck, had been thrown into the sea by +the shock. Uselessly we looked for the poor lad,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 173]</a></span> +whose body doubtless became the prey of the sharks. +Fortunately for us, only one side of the boat had +touched the rock, and it had then run aground on the +sand; so that after getting it off we were able to anchor +not far from the shore.</p> + +<p>"On the 3d January, 1859, after having crossed +the little gulf of Chantaboun, the sea being at the +time very rough, we came in sight of the famous +Lion Rock, which stands out like the extremity of a +cape at the entrance of this port. From a distance it +resembles a lion couchant, and it is difficult to believe +that Nature unassisted has formed this singular colossus. +The Siamese—a superstitious race—hold this +stone in great veneration, as they do everything that +appears to them extraordinary or marvellous. It is +said that the captain of an English ship, once anchored +in the port, seeing the lion, proposed to buy +it, and that, on the governor of the place refusing the +offer, he pitilessly fired all his guns at <i>the poor animal</i>. +This has been recorded in Siamese verse, with +a touching complaint against the cruelty of the Western +barbarians.</p> + +<p>"On the 4th January, at eight o'clock in the +morning, we arrived at the town of Chantaboun, +which stands on the bank of the river, six or seven +miles from the mountain range. The Christian Annamites +form nearly a third of the population, the +remainder being composed of Chinese merchants, +and some heathen Annamites and Siamese. The +Annamites are all fishers, who originally came from +Cochin-China to fish in the northern part of the +Gulf of Siam, and settled at the Chantaboun. Every<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 174]</a></span> +day, while the cold weather lasts, and the sea is not +too rough, they cast their nets in the little bays on +the coast, or in the sheltered water among the islands.</p> + +<p>"The commerce of this province is inconsiderable, +compared with what it might be from its situation; +but the numerous taxes, the grinding exactions of +the chiefs, and the usury of the mandarins, added +to the hateful system of slavery, keep the bulk of +the people in a ruinous state of prostration. However, +in spite of a scanty population, they manage +to export to Bangkok a great quantity of pepper, +chiefly cultivated by the Chinese at the foot of the +mountains; a little sugar and coffee of superior +quality; mats made of rushes, which meet with a +ready sale in China; tobacco, great quantities of +salted and dried fish, dried leeches, and tortoise-shell. +Every Siamese subject, on attaining a certain +height, has to pay to government an impost or +annual tribute equivalent to six ticals (eighteen +francs). The Annamites of Chantaboun pay this in +eagle-wood, and the Siamese in gamboge; the Chinese +in gum-lac, every four years, and their tribute +amounts to four ticals. At the close of the rainy +season, the Annamite Christians unite in parties of +fifteen or twenty, and set out under the conduct of +an experienced man, who heads the expedition, and +indicates to the others the trees which contain the +eagle-wood, for all are not equally skilled in distinguishing +those which produce it. A degree of experience +is requisite for this, which can only be acquired +by time, and thus much useless and painful<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 175]</a></span> +labor is avoided. Some remain in the mountains, +others visit the large islands of Ko-Xang or Ko-Khut, +situated southeast of Chantaboun. The eagle-wood +is hard and speckled, and diffuses a powerful aromatic +odor when burnt. It is used at the incremation +of the bodies of princes and high dignitaries, +which are previously kept in the coffins for a twelvemonth. +The Siamese also employ it as a medicine. +The wood of the tree which yields it—the <i>Aquilara +Agallocha</i> of Roxburgh—is white and very soft; +and the trunk must be cut down, or split in two, to +find the eagle-wood, which is in the interior. The +Annamites make a kind of secret of the indications +by which they fix upon the right trees, but the few +instructions given me put me on the right track. I +had several cut down, and the result of my observations +was, that this substance is formed in the cavities +of the trees, and that as they grow older it increases +in quantity. Its presence may be pretty +surely ascertained by the peculiar odor emitted, and +the hollow sound given out on striking the trunk.</p> + +<p>"Most of the Chinese merchants are addicted to +gambling and to the use of opium; but the Annamite +Christians are better conducted. The nature +of these Annamites is very different from that +of the Siamese, who are an effeminate and indolent +race, but liberal and hospitable, simple-minded, and +without pride. The Annamites are short in stature, +and thin, lively, and active; they are choleric and +vindictive, and extremely proud; even among relations +there is continual strife and jealousy. The +poor and the wretched meet with no commiseration,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 176]</a></span> +but great respect is accorded to wealth. However, +the attachment of the Christians to their priests +and missionaries is very great, and they do not hesitate +to expose themselves to any dangers in their +behalf. I must likewise own that, in all my dealings +with the pagan Annamites, whose reverence for their +ancestors induces them to hold fast their idolatry, I +experienced generosity and kindness from them, both +at Chantaboun and in the islands.</p> + +<p>"The missionaries at Bangkok having given me +a letter of introduction to their fellow-laborer at +Chantaboun, I had the pleasure of making acquaintance +with the worthy man, who received me with +great cordiality, and placed at my disposal a room +in his modest habitation. The good father has resided +for more than twenty years at Chantaboun, +with the Annamites whom he has baptized, content +and happy amid indigence and solitude. I found +him, on my arrival, at the height of felicity; a new +brick chapel, which had been for some time in course +of construction, and the funds required for which had +been saved out of his modest income, was rapidly +progressing, and promised soon to replace the wooden +building in which he then officiated. I passed sixteen +days very agreeably with him, sometimes hunting +on Mount Sabab, at other times making excursions +on the rivers and canals. The country greatly +resembles the province of Pakpriau, the plain being, +perhaps, still more desert and uncultivated; but at +the foot of the mountains, and in some of the delightful +valleys, pepper is grown in some quantity by the +Chinese.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 177]</a></span></p> + +<p>"I bought for twenty-five ticals a small boat to +enable me to visit the isles of the gulf. The first I +landed at was named Konam-sao; it is in the form +of a cone, and nearly two hundred and fifty metres<a name="FNanchor_A_7" id="FNanchor_A_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_7" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> +in height, but only two miles in circumference. Like +all the other islands in this part of the gulf, it is of +volcanic origin. The rocks which surround it make +the access difficult; but the effect produced by the richness +and bright green of the vegetation is charming. +The dry season, so agreeable for European travelling, +from the freshness of the nights and mornings, is in +Siam a time of stagnation and death for all nature; +the birds fly to the neighborhood of houses, or to the +banks of the rivers, which furnish them with nourishment; +rarely does their song come to enchant the +listener; and the fishing-eagle alone utters his hoarse +and piercing cry every time the wind changes. Ants +swarm everywhere, and appear to be, with the mosquitoes +and crickets, the only insects that have escaped +destruction.</p> + +<p>"Nowhere did I find in these islands the slightest +trace of path or stream; and it was extremely difficult +to advance at all through the masses of wild vines +and interwoven branches. I was forced to make my +way, hatchet in hand, and returned at night exhausted +with the heat and fatigue.</p> + +<p>"The greater portion of the rocks in the elevated +parts of these islands is elementary and preserves +traces of their ancient deposit beneath the waters. +They have, however, undergone considerable volcanic +changes, and contain a number of veins and irregular<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 178]</a></span> +deposits of the class known as contact deposits, that +are formed near the junction of stratified rocks with +intruded igneous masses.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_7" id="Footnote_A_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_7"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> A metre is equivalent to 3 feet 3-1/3 inches.</p></div> + +<p>"On the 26th we set sail for the first of the Ko-Man +Islands, for there are three, situated close together, +bearing this name. The largest is only twelve +miles from the coast. Some fishing-eagles, a few +black doves, and a kind of white pigeon were the +only winged creatures I saw. Iguanas are numerous, +and when in the evening they come out of their retreats, +they make such a noise in walking heavily +over the dead leaves and branches that one might +suppose it caused by animals of a much larger size.</p> + +<p>"Toward evening, the tide having fallen, I allowed +my boat to ground on the mud, which I had remarked +during the day to be like a peat-bog impregnated +with volcanic matter; and during the whole night so +strong a sulphurous odor escaped from it that I imagined +myself to be over a submarine volcano.</p> + +<p>"On the 28th we passed on to the second island, +which is higher and more picturesque than the other. +The rocks which surround it give it a magnificent +effect, especially in a bright sunlight, when the tide +is low. The isles of the Patates owe their name to +the numerous wild tubers found there.</p> + +<p>"I passed several days at Cape Liaut, part of the +time being occupied in exploring the many adjacent +islands. It is the most exquisite part of the gulf, +and will bear comparison, for its beauty, with the +Strait of Sunda, near the coast of Java. Two years +ago, when the king visited Chantaboun, they built +for him on the shore, at the extremity of the cape, a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 179]</a></span> +house and kiosk, and, in memory of that event, they +also erected on the top of the mountain a small +tower, from which a very extensive view may be +enjoyed.</p> + +<p>"I also made acquaintance with Ko-Kram, the +most beautiful and the largest of all the islands north +of the gulf between Bangkok and Chantaboun. The +whole island consists of a wooded mountain-range, +easy of access, and containing much oligist iron. On +the morning of the 29th, at sunrise, the breeze lessened, +and when we were about three miles from the +strait which separates the Isle of Arec from that of +the 'Cerfs' it ceased altogether. For the last half +hour we were indebted solely to our oars for the little +progress made, being exposed to all the glare of a +burning sun; and the atmosphere was heavy and suffocating. +All of a sudden, to my great astonishment, +the water began to be agitated, and our light boat +was tossed about by the waves. I knew not what to +think, and was seriously alarmed, when our pilot +called out, 'Look how the sea boils!' Turning in +the direction indicated, I beheld the sea really in a +state of ebullition, and very shortly afterward an immense +jet of water and steam, which lasted for several +minutes, was thrown into the air. I had never before +witnessed such a phenomenon, and was now no longer +astonished at the powerful smell of sulphur which +had nearly overpowered me in Ko-Man. It was +really a submarine volcano, which burst out, more +than a mile from the place where we had anchored +three days before.</p> + +<p>"On March 1st we reached Ven-Ven, at Pack-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 180]</a></span>nam-Ven, +the name of the place where the branches +of the river unite. This river, whose width at the +mouth is above three miles, is formed by the union +of several streams flowing from the mountains, as +well as by an auxiliary of the Chantaboun River, +which, serving as a canal, unites these two places. +Ascending the stream for fourteen or fifteen miles, +a large village is reached, called Bandiana, but Paknam-Ven +is only inhabited by five families of Chinese +fishermen.</p> + +<p>"Crocodiles are more numerous in the river at +Paknam-Ven than in that at Chantaboun. I continually +saw them throw themselves from the banks into +the water; and it has frequently happened that careless +fishers, or persons who have imprudently fallen +asleep on the shore, have become their prey, or have +afterward died of the wounds inflicted by them. +This latter has happened twice during my stay here. +It is amusing, however—for one is interested in observing +the habits of animals all over the world—to +see the manner in which these creatures catch the +apes, which sometimes take a fancy to play with +them. Close to the bank lies the crocodile, his body +in the water, and only his capacious mouth above the +surface, ready to seize anything that may come within +reach. A troop of apes catch sight of him, seem +to consult together, approach little by little, and commence +their frolics, by turns actors and spectators. +One of the most active or most impudent jumps from +branch to branch, till within a respectful distance of +the crocodile, when, hanging by one claw, and with +the dexterity peculiar to these animals, he advances<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 181]</a></span> +and retires, now giving his enemy a blow with his +paw, at another time only pretending to do so. The +other apes, enjoying the fun, evidently wish to take +a part in it; but the other branches being too high, +they form a sort of chain by laying hold of each +other's paws, and thus swing backward and forward, +while any one of them who comes within reach of +the crocodile torments him to the best of his ability. +Sometimes the terrible jaws suddenly close, but not +upon the audacious ape, who just escapes; then there +are cries of exultation from the tormentors, who +gambol about joyfully. Occasionally, however, the +claw is entrapped, and the victim dragged with the rapidity +of lightning beneath the water, when the whole +troop disperse, groaning and shrieking. The misadventure +does not, however, prevent their recommencing +the game a few days afterward.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus15" id="illus15"></a><img src="images/illus015.jpg" width="320" height="588" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p>"On the 4th I returned to Chantaboun from my +excursions in the gulf, and resumed charge of my collections, +which, during my absence, I had left at the +custom-house, and which, to my great satisfaction, +had been taken good care of. The tide was low, and +we could not go up to the town. The sea here is +steadily receding from the coast, and, if some remedy +be not found, in a few years the river will not +be navigable even for boats. Already the junks have +some trouble in reaching Chantaboun even at high +water. The inhabitants were fishing for crabs and +mussels on the sand-banks, close to the custom-house, +the <i>employés</i> in which were occupied in the same +pursuit. The chief official, who, probably hoping +for some small present, had come out to meet me,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 182]</a></span> +heard me promise a supply of pins and needles to +those who would bring me shells, and encouraged his +men to look for them. In consequence, a large number +were brought me, which, to obtain otherwise, +would have cost much time and trouble.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 183]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> + +<h3>MOUHOT IN THE HILL-COUNTRY OF CHANTABOUN.</h3> + + +<p>"Here I am," continues Mouhot, in his narrative, +"once more installed in the house of a good +old Chinese, a pepper planter, whose hospitality I enjoyed +on my first visit to the place, two months ago. +His name is Ihié-How, but in Siamese he is called +Apait, which means <i>uncle</i>. He is a widower, with +two sons, the eldest eighteen, a good young man, +lively, hard-working, brave, and persevering. He is +already much attached to me, and is desirous of accompanying +me to Cambodia. Born amid the mountains, +and naturally intelligent, there are none of the +quadrupeds and few of the feathered tribes found in +the district with whose habits he is not familiar. He +fears neither tiger nor elephant. All this, added to +his amiable disposition, made Phrai (that is his name) +a real treasure to me.</p> + +<p>"Apait has also two brothers who have become +Catholics, and have settled at Chantaboun in order to +be near a Christian place of worship. He himself +has never had any desire to change his religion, because +he says if he did he must forget his deceased +parents, for whom he frequently offers sacrifices. +He is badly off, having incurred a debt of fifty ticals,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 184]</a></span> +for which he has to pay ten as yearly interest, the +rate in Siam being always twenty or thirty per cent. +Besides this he has various taxes to pay—twelve +ticals for his two sons, four for his house, one for his +furnace, one for his pig. The tax on the pepper-field +is eight ticals, one on his areca-trees, one on the betel +cultivated by him, and two <i>sellungs</i> for a cocoa-tree; +altogether thirty-nine ticals. His land brings him +in forty after all expenses are paid; what can he do +with the one remaining tical? The unlucky agriculturists +of this kind, and they are many, live on vegetables, +and on the rice which they obtain from the +Siamese in exchange for areca.</p> + +<p>"On my return from the islands, I had been detained +nearly ten days at Chantaboun, unable to +walk; I had cut my heel in climbing the rocks on +the shore at Ko-Man, and, as I was constantly barefooted +in the salt water, the wound soon closed. +But afterward I began to suffer from it; my foot +swelled, and I was obliged to reopen the wound to +extract a piece of shell which had remained in it. +As soon as I could leave Chantaboun I hired a carriage +and two buffaloes to take me to the mountain. +I experienced much gratification in finding +myself again among these quiet scenes, at once so +lovely and so full of grandeur. Here are valleys intersected +by streams of pure and limpid water; +there, small plains, over which are scattered the +modest dwellings of the laborious Chinese; while a +little in the distance rises the mountain, with its +imposing rocks, its grand trees, its torrents, and +waterfalls.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 185]</a></span></p> + +<p>"We have already had some storms, for the rainy +season is approaching, vegetation is fresh, and nature +animated; the song of birds and the hum of +insects are heard all around. Apait has resigned to +me his bed, if that can be so styled, which consists +merely of a few laths of areca placed upon four +stakes. I have extended my mat upon this framework, +and should enjoy uninterrupted sleep all night +were it not for the swarms of ants which frequently +disturb me by passing over my body, getting under +my clothes and into my beard, and, I almost fancy, +would end by dragging me out if I did not from +time to time shake them off. Occasionally great +spiders and other disgusting creatures, crawling +about under the roof, would startle me by dropping +suddenly on my face.</p> + +<p>"The heat now is quite endurable, the thermometer +generally marking 80° Fahr. in the morning and +90° in the middle of the day. The water of the +streams is so cool and refreshing that a good morning +and evening ablution makes me comfortable for +several hours, as well as contributing to keep me in +health.</p> + +<p>"Last evening Phrai, having gone along with my +man Fiou to Chantaboun to buy provisions, brought +back to his father some Chinese bonbons, for which +he had paid half a fuang. The poor old man was +delighted with them, and this morning at daybreak +he dressed himself in his best clothes, on which I +asked him what was going to happen. He immediately +began to clean a plank which was fitted into +the wall to serve as a sort of table or altar. Above<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 186]</a></span> +this was a drawing of a man dancing and putting +out his tongue, with claws on his feet and hands, and +with the tail of an ape, intended to represent his +father. He then filled three small cups with tea, +put the bonbons in a fourth, and placed the whole +upon the simple altar; finally, lighting two pieces +of odoriferous wood, he began his devotions. It was +a sacrifice to the manes of his parents, performed +with the hope that their souls would come and taste +the good things set before them.</p> + +<p>"At the entrance of Apait's garden, in front of his +house, I had made a kind of shed with stakes and +branches of trees, covered with a roof of leaves, +where I dried and prepared my large specimens, such +as the long-armed apes, kids, and hornbills, as also +my collections of insects. All this has attracted a +crowd of inquisitive Siamese and Chinamen, who came +to see the "farang" and admire his curiosities. We +have just passed the Chinese New Year's-day, and, +as there has been a <i>fête</i> for three days, all those living +at any distance have profited by the opportunity to +visit us. At times Apait's house and garden have +been crowded with people in their holiday dresses, +many of whom, seeing my instruments, my naturalist's +case, and different preparations, took me for +a great doctor, and begged for medicines.</p> + +<p>"Alas! my pretensions are not so high; however, +I treat them on the 'Raspail' system; and a little +box of pomade or phial of sedative water will perhaps +be represented in some European museum by an insect +or shell brought to me by these worthy people in +return for the good I would gladly do them.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 187]</a></span></p> + +<p>"It is very agreeable, after a fatiguing day's chase +over hills and amongst dense forests, through which +one must cut one's way, axe in hand, to repose in the +evening on the good Chinaman's bench in front of his +house, shaded by banana, cocoanut, and other trees. +For the last four days a violent north wind, fresh in +spite of the season, has been blowing without intermission, +breaking asunder and tearing up by the roots +some of the trees on the higher grounds. This is its +farewell visit, for the southeast wind will now blow +for many months.</p> + +<p>"This evening everything appeared to me more +beautiful and agreeable than usual; the stars shone +brightly in the sky, the moon was clear. Sitting by +Apait while his son played to me some Chinese airs +on the bamboo flute, I thought to what a height of +prosperity this province, even now one of the most +interesting and flourishing in the country, might attain, +were it wisely and intelligently governed, or if +European colonists were to settle and develop its resources. +Proximity to the sea, facility of communication, +a rich soil, a healthy and propitious climate; +nothing is wanted to ensure success to an industrious +and enterprising agriculturist.</p> + +<p>"The worthy old Apait has at last consented to allow +his son to enter my service, providing I pay him +thirty ticals, half a year's wages, in advance. This +will enable him, if he can sell his house and pepper-field, +to clear off his debt and retire to another part +of the mountain. Phrai is delighted to attend me, +and to run about the woods all day, and I am not less +pleased with our bargain, for his knowledge of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 188]</a></span> +country, his activity, his intelligence, and attachment +to me, are invaluable.</p> + +<p>"The heat becomes greater and greater, the thermometer +having risen to 102° Fahr. in the shade: +thus hunting is now a painful, and sometimes impossible, +exertion, anywhere except in the woods. +A few days ago I took advantage of a short spell of +cloudy and consequently cooler weather to visit a +waterfall I had heard of in the almost desert district +of Prion, twelve miles from Kombau. After reaching +the last-named place our course lay for about +an hour and a half along a charming valley, nearly +as smooth as a lawn and as ornamental as a park. +By and by, entering a forest, we kept by the banks +of a stream, which, shut in between two mountains, +and studded with blocks of granite, increases in size +as you approach its source. Before long we arrived +at the fall, which must be a fine spectacle in the +rainy season. It then pours down from immense +perpendicular rocks, forming, as it were, a circular +peaked wall, nearly thirty metres in diameter and +twenty metres in height. The force of the torrent +having been broken by the rocky bed into which it +descends, there is another fall of ten feet; and lower +down, after a third fall of fifteen feet, it passes into +an ample basin, which, like a mirror, reflects the +trees and cliffs around. Even during the dry season, +the spring, then running from beneath enormous +blocks of granite, flows in such abundance as to feed +several streams.</p> + +<p>"I was astonished to see my two servants, heated +by their long walk, bathe in the cold water, and on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 189]</a></span> +my advising them to wait for a little, they replied +that the natives were always accustomed to bathe +when hot.</p> + +<p>"We all turned stone-cutters, that is to say, we +set to work to detach the impression of an unknown +animal from the surface of an immense mass of +granite rising up out of one of the mountain torrents. +A Chinese had in January demanded so exorbitant +a sum for this that I had abandoned the +idea, intending to content myself with an impression +in wax, but Phrai proposed to me to undertake the +work, and by our joint labor it was soon accomplished. +The Siamese do not much like my meddling +with their rocks, and their superstition is also +somewhat startled when I happen to kill a white +ape, although when the animal is dead and skinned +they are glad to obtain a cutlet or steak from it, for +they attribute to the flesh of this creature great medicinal +virtues.</p> + +<p>"The rainy season is drawing near; storms become +more and more frequent, and the growling of +the thunder is frightful. Insects are in greater +numbers, and the ants, which are now looking out +for a shelter, invade the dwellings, and are a perfect +pest to my collections, not to speak of myself +and my clothes. Several of my books and maps +have been almost devoured in one night. Fortunately +there are no mosquitoes, but to make up for +this there is a small species of leech, which, when it +rains, quits the streams and infests the woods, rendering +an excursion there, if not impracticable, at all +events very disagreeable. You have constantly to be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 190]</a></span> +pulling them off you by dozens, but, as some always +escape observation, you are sure to return home +covered with blood; often my white trousers are +dyed as red as those of a French soldier.</p> + +<p>"The animals have now become scarcer, which in +different ways is a great disappointment to all, for +Phrai and Niou feasted sumptuously on the flesh of +the apes, and made a profit by selling their gall to the +Chinese doctors in Chantaboun. Hornbills have also +turned wild, so we can find nothing to replenish our +larder but an occasional kid. Large stags feed on the +mountain, but one requires to watch all night to get +within range of them. There are not many birds +to be seen, neither quail, partridges, nor pheasants; +and the few wild fowl which occasionally make their +appearance are so difficult to shoot that it is waste +both of time and ammunition to make the attempt.</p> + +<p>"In this part of the country the Siamese declare +they cannot cultivate bananas on account of the elephants, +which at certain times come down from the +mountains and devour the leaves, of which they are +very fond. The royal and other tigers abound here; +every night they prowl about in the vicinity of the +houses, and in the mornings we can see the print of +their large claws in the sand and in the clay near +streams. By day they retire to the mountain, where +they lurk in close and inaccessible thickets. Now and +then you may get near enough to one to have a shot +at him, but generally, unless suffering from hunger, +they fly at the approach of man. A few days ago I +saw a young Chinese who had nineteen wounds on his +body, made by one of these animals. He was looking<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 191]</a></span> +out from a tree about nine feet high when the cries of +a young kid tied to another tree at a short distance, attracted +a large tiger. The young man fired at it, but, +though mortally wounded, the creature, collecting all +his strength for a final spring, leaped on his enemy, +seized him and pulled him down, tearing his flesh +frightfully with teeth and claws as they rolled on the +ground. Luckily for the unfortunate Chinese, it was +a dying effort, and in a few moments more the tiger +relaxed its hold and breathed its last.</p> + +<p>"In the mountains of Chantaboun, and not far +from my present abode, precious stones of fine water +occur. There is even at the east of the town an eminence, +which they call 'the mountain of precious +stones;' and it would appear from the account of +Mgr. Pallegoix that at one time they were abundant +in that locality, since in about half an hour he picked +up a handful, which is as much as now can be found +in a twelvemonth, nor can they be purchased at any +price.</p> + +<p>"It seems that I have seriously offended the poor +Thai<a name="FNanchor_A_8" id="FNanchor_A_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_8" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> of Kombau by carrying away the footprints. I +have met several natives who tell me they have broken +arms, that they can no longer work, and will always +henceforth be in poverty; and I find that I am +considered to be answerable for this because I irritated +the genius of the mountain. Henceforth they +will have a good excuse for idleness.</p> + +<p>"The Chinese have equally amused me. They +imagine that some treasure ought to be found beneath +the footprints, and that the block which I have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 192]</a></span> +carried away must possess great medicinal virtues; +so Apait and his friends have been rubbing the under +part of the stone every morning against another piece +of granite, and, collecting carefully the dust that fell +from it, have mixed it with water and drunk it fasting, +fully persuaded that it is a remedy against all +ills. Here they say that it is faith which cures; and +it is certain that pills are often enough administered +in the civilized West which have no more virtue than +the granite powder swallowed by old Apait.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_8" id="Footnote_A_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_8"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> The Siamese call themselves Thai.</p></div> + +<p>"His uncle Thié-ou has disposed of his property +for him for sixty ticals, so that, after paying off his +debts, he will have left, including the sum I gave him +for his son's services, forty ticals. Here that is enough +to make a man think himself rich to the end of his +days; he can at times regale the souls of his parents +with tea and bonbons, and live himself like a true +country mandarin. Before leaving Kombau the old +man secured me another lodging, for which I had to +pay two ticals (six francs) a month, and I lost nothing +in point of comfort by the change. For 'furnished +apartments' I think the charge not unreasonable. +The list of furniture is as follows: in the +dining-room <i>nothing</i>, in the bedroom an old mat on +a camp-bed. However, this house is cleaner and +larger than the other, and better protected from the +weather; in the first the water came in in all directions. +Then the camp-bed, which is a large one, affords +a pleasant lounge after my hunting expeditions. +Besides which advantages my new landlord furnishes +me with bananas and vegetables, for which I pay in +game when the chase has been successful.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 193]</a></span></p> + +<p>"The fruit here is exquisite, particularly the mango, +the mangosteen, the pineapple, so fragrant and +melting in the mouth, and, what is superior to anything +I ever imagined or tasted, the famous 'durian' +or 'dourion,' which justly merits the title of king of +fruits. But to enjoy it thoroughly one must have +time to overcome the disgust at first inspired by its +smell, which is so strong that I could not stay in the +same place with it. On first tasting it I thought it +like the flesh of some animal in a state of putrefaction, +but after four or five trials I found the aroma +exquisite. The <i>durian</i> is about two-thirds the size +of a jacca, and like it is encased in a thick and prickly +rind, which protects it from the teeth of squirrels and +other nibblers; on opening it there are to be found +ten cells, each containing a kernel larger than a date, +and surrounded by a sort of white, or sometimes yellowish, +cream, which is most delicious. By an odd +freak of nature, not only is there the first repugnance +to it to overcome, but if you eat it often, though with +ever so great moderation, you find yourself next day +covered with blotches, as if attacked with measles, so +heating is its nature. A <i>durian</i> picked is never good, +for when fully ripe it falls off itself; when cut open +it must be eaten at once, as it quickly spoils, but +otherwise it will keep for three days. At Bangkok +one of them costs one <i>sellung</i>; at Chantaboun nine +may be obtained for the same sum.</p> + +<p>"I had come to the conclusion that there was +little danger in traversing the woods here, and in our +search for butterflies and other insects, we often took +no other arms than a hatchet and hunting-knife,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 194]</a></span> +while Niou had become so confident as to go by night +with Phrai to lie in wait for stags. Our sense of security +was, however, rudely shaken when one evening +a panther rushed upon one of the dogs close to my +door. The poor animal uttered a heart-rending cry, +which brought us all out, as well as our neighbors, +each torch in hand. Finding themselves face to face +with a panther, they in their turn raised their voices +in loud screams; but it was too late for me to get my +gun, for in a moment the beast was out of reach.</p> + +<p>"In a few weeks I must say farewell to these +beautiful mountains, never, in all probability, to see +them again, and I think of this with regret; I have +been so happy here, and have so much enjoyed my +hunting and my solitary walks in this comparatively +temperate climate, after my sufferings from the heat +and mosquitoes in my journey northward.</p> + +<p>"Thanks to my nearness to the sea on the one side, +and to the mountain region on the other, the period +of the greatest heat passed away without my perceiving +it; and I was much surprised at receiving a few +days ago a letter from Bangkok which stated that it +had been hotter weather there than had been known +for more than thirty years. Many of the European +residents had been ill; yet I do not think the climate +of Bangkok more unhealthy than that of other towns +of eastern Asia within the tropics. But no doubt the +want of exercise, which is there almost impossible, +induces illness in many cases.</p> + +<p>"A few days ago I made up my mind to penetrate +into a grotto on Mount Sabab, half-way between +Chantaboun and Kombau, so deep, I am told, that it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 195]</a></span> +extends to the top of the mountain. I set out, accompanied +by Phrai and Niou, furnished with all +that was necessary for our excursion. On reaching +the grotto we lighted our torches, and, after scaling +a number of blocks of granite, began our march. +Thousands of bats, roused by the lights, commenced +flying round and round us, flapping our faces with +their wings, and extinguishing our torches every minute. +Phrai walked first, trying the ground with a +lance which he held; but we had scarcely proceeded +a hundred paces when he threw himself back upon me +with every mark of terror, crying out, 'A serpent! +go back!' As he spoke I perceived an enormous boa +about fifteen feet off, with erect head and open +mouth, ready to dart upon him. My gun being +loaded, one barrel with two bullets, the other with +shot, I took aim and fired off both at once. We were +immediately enveloped in a thick cloud of smoke, and +could see nothing, but prudently beat an instant retreat. +We waited anxiously for some time at the +entrance of the grotto, prepared to do battle with our +enemy should he present himself; but he did not +appear. My guide now boldly lighted a torch, and, +furnished with my gun reloaded and a long rope, +went in again alone. We held one end of the rope, +that at the least signal we might fly to his assistance. +For some minutes, which appeared terribly long, our +anxiety was extreme, but equally great was our relief +and gratification when we saw him approach, drawing +after him the rope, to which was attached an +immense boa. The head of the reptile had been +shattered by my fire, and his death had been instan<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 196]</a></span>taneous, +but we sought to penetrate no farther into +the grotto.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus16" id="illus16"></a><img src="images/illus016.jpg" width="320" height="222" alt="SIAMESE ACTORS." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SIAMESE ACTORS.</span> +</div> + +<p>"I had been told that the Siamese were about to +celebrate a grand <i>fête</i> at a pagoda about three miles +off, in honor of a superior priest who died last year, +and whose remains were now to be burned according +to the custom of the country. I went to see this singular +ceremony, hoping to gain some information respecting +the amusements of this people, and arrived +at the place about eight in the morning, the time for +breakfast, or 'kinkao' (rice-eating). Nearly two +thousand Siamese of both sexes from Chantaboun +and the surrounding villages, some in carriages and +some on foot, were scattered over the ground in the +neighborhood of the pagoda. All wore new sashes +and dresses of brilliant colors, and the effect of the +various motley groups was most striking.</p> + +<p>"Under a vast roof of planks supported by columns, +forming a kind of shed, bordered by pieces of +stuff covered with grotesque paintings representing +men and animals in the most extraordinary attitudes, +was constructed an imitation rock of colored pasteboard, +on which was placed a catafalque lavishly +decorated with gilding and carved work, and containing +an urn in which were the precious remains of the +priest. Here and there were arranged pieces of +paper and stuff in the form of flags. Outside the +building was prepared the funeral pile, and at some distance +off a platform was erected for the accommodation +of a band of musicians, who played upon different instruments +of the country. Farther away some women +had established a market for the sale of fruit,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 197]</a></span> +bonbons, and arrack, while in another quarter some +Chinamen and Siamese were performing, in a little +theatre run up for the occasion, scenes something in +the style of those exhibited by our strolling actors at +fairs. This <i>fête</i>, which lasted for three days, had +nothing at all in it of a funereal character. I had +gone there hoping to witness something new and remarkable, +for these peculiar rites are only celebrated +in honor of sovereigns, nobles, and other persons of +high standing; but I had omitted to take into consideration +the likelihood of my being myself an object +of curiosity to the crowd. Scarcely, however, +had I appeared in the pagoda, followed by Phrai and +Niou, when on all sides I heard the exclamation, +'Farang! come and see the farang!' and immediately +both Siamese and Chinamen left their bowls +of rice and pressed about me. I hoped that, once +their curiosity was gratified, they would leave me in +peace, but instead of that the crowd grew thicker +and thicker, and followed me wherever I went, so +that at last it became almost unbearable, and all the +more so as most of them were already drunk, either +with opium or arrack, many indeed, with both. I +quitted the pagoda and was glad to get into the fresh +air again, but the respite was of short duration. +Passing the entrance of a large hut temporarily built +of planks, I saw some chiefs of provinces sitting at +breakfast. The senior of the party advanced straight +toward me, shook me by the hand, and begged me in +a cordial and polite manner to enter; and I was glad +to avail myself of his kind offer, and take refuge +from the troublesome people. My hosts overwhelmed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 198]</a></span> +me with attentions, and forced upon me pastry, fruit, +and bonbons; but the crowd who had followed me +forced their way into the building and hemmed us +in on all sides; even the roof was covered with +gazers. All of a sudden we heard the walls crack, +and the whole of the back of the hut, yielding under +the pressure, fell in, and people, priests, and chiefs +tumbling one upon another, the scene of confusion +was irresistibly comic. I profited by the opportunity +to escape, swearing—though rather late in the day—that +they should not catch me again.</p> + +<p>"I know not to what it is to be attributed, unless +it be the pure air of the mountains and a more active +life, but the mountaineers of Chantaboun appeared a +much finer race than the Siamese of the plain, more +robust, and of a darker complexion. Their features, +also, are more regular, and I should imagine that +they sprang rather from the Arian than from the +Mongolian race. They remind me of the Siamese +and Laotians whom I met with in the mountains of +Pakpriau.</p> + +<p>"Will the present movement of the nations of +Europe toward the East result in good by introducing +into these lands the blessings of our civilization? +or shall we, as blind instruments of boundless ambition, +come hither as a scourge to add to their present +miseries? Here are millions of unhappy creatures +in great poverty in the midst of the richest and most +fertile region imaginable, bowing shamefully under +a servile yoke, made viler by despotism and the most +barbarous customs, living and dying in utter ignorance +of the only true God!<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 199]</a></span></p> + +<p>"I quitted with regret these beautiful mountains, +where I had passed so many happy hours with the +poor but hospitable inhabitants. On the evening +before and the morning of my departure, all the +people of the neighborhood, Chinese and Siamese, +came to say adieu, and offer me presents of fruits, +dried fish, fowls, tobacco, and rice cooked in various +ways with brown sugar, all in greater quantities than +I could possibly carry away. The farewells of these +good mountaineers were touching; they kissed my +hands and feet, and I confess that my eyes were not +dry. They accompanied me to a great distance, +begging me not to forget them, and to pay them another +visit."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 200]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> + +<h3>PECHABURI OR P'RIPP'REE</h3> + + +<p>On the opposite side of the gulf from Chantaboun, +and much nearer to the mouth of the +Meinam, within a few hours' sail of Paknam, is the +town of Pechaburi, which is now famous as the seat +of a summer palace built by the late king, and as a +place of increasing resort for foreigners resident in +Siam.</p> + +<p>The proper orthography of the name of this town +was a matter which gave the late king a great deal +of solicitude and distress. Priding himself upon his +scholarship almost as much as on his sovereignty, +his pedantic soul was vexed by the method in which +some of the writers for the press had given the +name. Accordingly, in a long article published in +the Bangkok <i>Calendar</i>, he relieved his mind by a +protest which is so characteristic, and in its way so +amusing, that it will bear to be quoted by way of +introduction to the present chapter. He has just +finished a long disquisition, philological, historical +and antiquarian, concerning the name of the city of +Bangkok, and he continues as follows:</p> + +<p>"But as the city P'etch'ără-booree the masses of +the people in all parts call it P'ripp'ree or P'et-p'ree. +The name P'etch'ără-booree is Sanskrit, a royal name<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 201]</a></span> +given to the place the same as T'on-booree, Non-boo-ree, +Năk'awn K'u'n k'ăn, Sămŏŏtă-pra-kan, and Ch'ă-chong-sow. +Now, if Mahá nak'awn be called Bangkok, +and the other names respectively called Tălatk'wan, +Paklat, Paknam, and Păătrew, it is proper that +P'etch'ără-booree should follow suit, and be called by +her vulgar name P'rip-p'ree, or P'et-p'ree.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus17" id="illus17"></a><img src="images/illus017.jpg" width="320" height="203" alt="MOUNTAINS OF PECHABURI." title="" /> +<span class="caption">MOUNTAINS OF PECHABURI.</span> +</div> + +<p>"Now that the company of teachers and printers +should coin a name purporting to be after the royal +style and yet do not take the true Sanskrit, seems not +at all proper. In trying to Romanize the name +P'etch'ără-booree, they place the mark over the <i>a</i> thus +P'etchă-booree, making foreigners read it P'etcha-booree, +following the utterances of old dunces in the +temples, who boast that they know Balăm Bali, and +not satisfied with that, they even call the place City +P'et, setting forth both the Bali and the meaning of +the word; and thus boasting greatly of their knowledge +and of being a standard of orthography for the +name of that city.</p> + +<p>"Now, what is the necessity of coining another +name like this? There is no occasion for it. When +the name is thus incorrectly printed, persons truly acquainted +with Sanskrit and Bali (for such there are +many other places) will say that those who write or +print the name in the way, must be pupils of ignorant +teachers—blind teachers not following the real Sanskrit +in full, taking only the utterances of woodsmen, +and holding them forth [as the correct way]. In following +such sounds they cannot be in accord with the +Sanskrit, and they conclude that the name is Siamese. +Whereas, in truth, it is not Siamese. The true Siam<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 202]</a></span>ese +name is P'rip-p'ree or P'et-p'ree. It matters not +what letters are used to express it—follow your own +mind; but let the sound come out clear and accurate +either P'rip-p'ree or P'et-p'ree, and it will be true +Siamese. But the mode of writing and printing the +name P'etchă-booree with the letter <i>a</i> and mark over +it and other marks in two places, resists the eye and +the mouth greatly. Whatever be done in this matter +let there be uniformity. If it be determined to follow +the vulgar mode of calling the name, let that be +followed out fully and accurately; but if the royal +mode be preferred let the king be sought unto for the +proper way of writing it, which shall be in full accordance +with the Sanskrit. And should this happen not +to be like the utterance of the people in the temples, +the difference cannot be great. And persons unacquainted +with Sanskrit will be constrained to acknowledge +that you do really know Sanskrit; and comparing +the corrected with the improper mode of Romanizing, +will praise you for the improvement which you +have made. Such persons there are a few, not ignorant +and blind leaders and dunces like the inmates of +the temples and of the jungles and forests, but learned +in the Sanskrit and residents in Siam."</p> + +<p>It is to be feared, however, that his majesty's protest +came too late, and that, like many another blunder, +the name Pechaburi has obtained such currency +that it cannot be superseded.</p> + +<p>Sir John Bowring "received from a gentleman +now resident in Siam the notes of an excursion to +this city in July, 1855.</p> + +<p>"'We left Bangkok about three in the afternoon,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 203]</a></span> +and although we had the tide in our favor, we only +accomplished five miles during the first three hours. +Our way lay through a creek; and so great was the +number of boats that it strongly reminded me of +Cheapside during the busiest part of the day. Although +I had been in Bangkok four months, I had +not the least conception that there was such a population +spread along the creeks. More than four +miles from the river, there appeared to be little or +no diminution in the number of the inhabitants, and +the traffic was as great as at the mouth of the creek.</p> + +<p>"'Having at last got past the crowd of boats, we +advanced rapidly for two hours more, when we +stopped at a <i>wat</i>, in order to give the men a rest. +This <i>wat</i>, as its name "Laos" implies, was built by +the inhabitants of the Laos country, and is remarkable +(if we can trust to tradition) as being the limit +of the Birmese invasion. Here, the Siamese say, a +body of Birmans were defeated by the villagers, who +had taken refuge in the <i>wat</i>: and they point out two +large holes in the wall as the places where cannon-balls +struck. After leaving this, we proceeded +rapidly until about 12 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, when we reached the +other branch of the Meinam (Meinam mahachen), and +there we halted for the night.</p> + +<p>"'Our journey the next day was most delightful: +most of it lay through narrow creeks, their banks +covered with atap and bamboo, whilst behind this +screen were plantations of chilis, beans, peas, etc. +Alligators and otters abounded in the creeks; and +we shot several, and one of a peculiar breed of monkey +also we killed. The Siamese name of it is <i>chang</i>,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 204]</a></span> +and it is accounted a great delicacy: they also eat +with avidity the otter. We crossed during the day +the Tha-chin, a river as broad as the Meinam at +Bangkok. Toward evening we entered the Mei-Klong, +which we descended till we reached the sea-coast. +Here we waited till the breeze should sufficiently +abate to enable us to cross the bay.</p> + +<p>"'11th.—We started about 4 <span class="smcap">A.M.</span>, and reached +the opposite side in about three hours. The bay is +remarkably picturesque, and is so shallow that, although +we crossed fully four miles from the head of +the bay, we never had more than six feet of water, +and generally much less. Arrived at the other side +we ascended the river on which Pechaburi is built. +At the mouth of the river myriads of monkeys were +to be seen. A very amusing incident occurred here. +Mr. Hunter, wishing to get a juvenile specimen, fired +at the mother, but, unfortunately, only wounded her, +and she had strength enough to carry the young one +into the jungle. Five men immediately followed +her; but ere they had been out of sight five minutes +we saw them hurrying toward us shouting, "<i>Ling, +ling, ling, ling!</i>" (<i>ling</i>, monkey). As I could see +nothing, I asked Mr. Hunter if they were after the +monkey. "Oh, no," he replied; "the monkeys are +after them!" And so they were—thousands upon +thousands of them, coming down in a most unpleasant +manner; and, as the tide was out, there was a +great quantity of soft mud to cross before they could +reach the boat, and here the monkeys gained very +rapidly upon the men, and when at length the boat +was reached, their savage pursuers were not twenty<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 205]</a></span> +yards behind. The whole scene was ludicrous in the +extreme, and I really think if my life had depended +upon it that I could not have fired a shot. To see +the men making the most strenuous exertions to get +through the deep mud, breathless with their run and +fright combined, and the army of little wretches +drawn up in line within twenty yards of us, screaming, +and making use of the most diabolical language, +if we could only have understood them! Besides, +there was a feeling that they had the right side of +the question. One of the <i>refugees</i>, however, did not +appear to take my view of the case. Smarting under +the disgrace, and the bamboos against which he ran +in his retreat, he seized my gun, and fired both barrels +on the exulting foe; they immediately retired in +great disorder, leaving four dead upon the field. +Many were the quarrels that arose from this affair +among the men.</p> + +<p>"'The approach to Pechaburi is very pleasant, the +river is absolutely arched over by tamarind trees, +while the most admirable cultivation prevails all +along its course.</p> + +<p>"'The first object which attracts the attention is +the magnificent pagoda, within which is a reclining +figure of Buddha, one hundred and forty-five feet in +length. Above the pagoda, the priests have, with +great perseverance, terraced the face of the rock to a +considerable height. About half-way up the mountain, +there is an extensive cave, generally known +amongst foreigners as the "Cave of Idols;" it certainly +deserves its name, if we are to judge from the +number of figures of Buddha which it contains.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 206]</a></span></p> + +<p>"'The talapoins assert that it is natural. It may +be so in part, but there are portions of it in which +the hand of man is visible. It is very small, not more +than thirty yards in length, and about seven feet +high; but anything like a cavern is so uncommon in +this country, that this one is worth notice. We now +proceeded to climb the mountain. It is very steep, +but of no great height—probably not more than five +hundred feet. It is covered with huge blocks of a +stone resembling granite; these are exceedingly +slippery, and the ascent is thus rendered rather laborious. +But when we reached the top we were well +repaid. The country for miles in each direction lay +at our feet—one vast plain, unbroken by any elevation. +It appeared like an immense garden, so carefully was +it cultivated; the young rice and sugar-cane, of the +most beautiful green, relieved by the darker shade of +the cocoanut trees, which are used as boundaries to +the fields—those fields traversed by suitable foot-paths. +Then toward the sea the view was more +varied: rice and sugar-cane held undisputed sway for +a short distance from the town; then cocoanuts became +more frequent, until the rice finally disappeared; +then the bamboos gradually invaded the cocoanut +trees; then the atap palm, with its magnificent +leaf; and lastly came that great invader of Siam, +the mangrove. Beyond were the mountains on +the Malay Peninsula, stretching away in the distance.</p> + +<p>"'With great reluctance did we descend from the +little pagoda, which is built upon the very summit; +but evening was coming on, and we had observed in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 207]</a></span> +ascending some very suspicious-looking footprints +mightily resembling those of a tiger.</p> + +<p>"'Pechaburi is a thriving town, containing about +twenty thousand inhabitants. The houses are, for +the most part, neatly built, and no floating houses are +visible. Rice and sugar are two-thirds dearer at +Bangkok than they are here, and the rice is of a +particularly fine description. We called upon the +governor during the evening. Next morning we +started for home, and arrived without any accident.'"</p> + +<p>It was not until the completion of his prolonged +tour of exploration through Cambodia, and his visit +to the savage tribes on the frontier of Cochin-China, +that Mouhot found time for his excursion to Pechaburi +from Bangkok.</p> + +<p>"I returned to the capital," he says, "after fifteen +months' absence. During the greater part of this +time I had never known the comfort of sleeping in a +bed; and throughout my wanderings my only food +had been rice or dried fish, and I had not once tasted +good water. I was astonished at having preserved +my health so well, particularly in the forests, where +often wet to the skin, and without a change of clothes, +I have had to pass whole nights by a fire, at the foot +of a tree. Yet I have not had a single attack of fever, +and been always happy and in good spirits, especially +when lucky enough to light upon some novelty. A +new shell or insect filled me with a joy which ardent +naturalists alone can understand; but they know well +how little fatigues and privations of all kinds are cared +for when set against the delight experienced in mak<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 208]</a></span>ing +one discovery after another, and in feeling that +one is of some slight assistance to the votaries of +science. It pleases me to think that my investigations +into the archæology, entomology, and conchology +of these lands may be of use to certain members +of the great and generous English nation, who kindly +encouraged the poor naturalist; while France, his own +country, remained deaf to his voice.</p> + +<p>"It was another great pleasure to me, after these +fifteen months of travelling, during which very few +letters from home had reached me, to find, on arriving +at Bangkok, an enormous packet, telling me all +the news of my distant family and country. It is +indeed happiness, after so long a period of solitude, +to read the lines traced by the beloved hands of an +aged father, of a wife, of a brother. These joys are +to be reckoned among the sweetest and purest of life.</p> + +<p>"We stopped in the centre of the town, at the entrance +of a canal, whence there is a view over the +busiest part of the Meinam. It was almost night, +and silence reigned around us; but when at daybreak +I rose and saw the ships lying at anchor in the +middle of the stream, while the roofs of the palaces +and pagodas reflected the first rays of the sun, I +thought that Bangkok had never looked so beautiful. +However, life here would never suit me, and +the mode of locomotion is wearisome after an active +existence among the woods and in the chase.</p> + +<p>"The river is constantly covered with thousands +of boats of different sizes and forms, and the port of +Bangkok is certainly one of the finest in the world, +without excepting even the justly-renowned harbor<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 209]</a></span> +of New York. Thousands of vessels can find safe +anchorage here.</p> + +<p>"The town of Bangkok increases in population +and extent every day, and there is no doubt but that +it will become a very important capital. If France +succeeds in taking possession of Annam, the commerce +between the two countries will increase. It +is scarcely a century old, and yet contains nearly half +a million of inhabitants, among whom are many +Christians. The flag of France floating in Cochin-China +would improve the position of the missions in +all the surrounding countries; and I have reason to +hope that Christianity will increase more rapidly +than it has hitherto done.</p> + +<p>"I had intended to visit the northeast of the +country of Laos, crossing Dong Phya Phai (the forest +of the King of Fire), and going on to Hieng Naie, on +the frontiers of Cochin-China; thence to the confines +of Tonquin. I had planned to return afterward +by the Mékong to Cambodia, and then to pass +through Cochin-China, should the arms of France +have been victorious there. However, the rainy season +having commenced the whole country was inundated, +and the forests impassable; so it was necessary +to wait four months before I could put my +project in execution. I therefore packed up and +sent off all my collections, and after remaining a few +weeks in Bangkok I departed for Pechaburi, situated +about 13° north latitude, and to the north of the +Malayan peninsula.</p> + +<p>"On May 8th, at five o'clock in the evening, I +sailed from Bangkok in a magnificent vessel, orna<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 210]</a></span>mented +with rich gilding and carved work, belonging +to Khrom Luang, one of the king's brothers, +who had kindly lent it to a valued friend of mine. +There is no reason for concealing the name of this +gentleman, who has proved himself a real friend in +the truest meaning of the word; but I rather embrace +the opportunity of testifying my affection and +gratitude to M. Malherbes, who is a French merchant +settled at Bangkok. He insisted on accompanying +me for some distance, and the few days he +passed with me were most agreeable ones.</p> + +<p>"The current was favorable, and, with our fifteen +rowers, we proceeded rapidly down the stream. Our +boat, adorned with all sorts of flags, red streamers, +and peacocks' tails, attracted the attention of all the +European residents, whose houses are built along +the banks of the stream, and who, from their verandas, +saluted us by cheering and waving their hands. +Three days after leaving Bangkok we arrived at +Pechaburi.</p> + +<p>"The king was expected there the same day, to +visit a palace which he has had built on the summit +of a hill near the town. Khrom Luang, Kalahom +(prime-minister), and a large number of mandarins +had already assembled. Seeing us arrive, the prince +called to us from his pretty little house; and as +soon as we had put on more suitable dresses we +waited on him, and he entered into conversation with +us till breakfast-time. He is an excellent man, and, +of all the dignitaries of the country, the one who +manifests least reserve and hauteur toward Europeans. +In education both this prince and the king<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 211]</a></span> +are much advanced, considering the state of the +country, but in their manners they have little more +refinement than the people generally.</p> + +<p>"Our first walk was to the hill on which the palace +stands. Seen from a little distance, this building, +of European construction, presents a very striking +appearance; and the winding path which leads +up to it has been admirably contrived amid the volcanic +rocks, basalt, and scoria which cover the surface +of this ancient crater.</p> + +<p>"About twenty-five miles off, stretches from north +to south a chain of mountains called Deng, and inhabited +by the independent tribes of the primitive +Kariens. Beyond these rise a number of still higher +peaks. On the low ground are forests, palm-trees, +and rice-fields, the whole rich and varied in color. +Lastly, to the south and east, and beyond another +plain, lies the gulf, on whose waters, fading away into +the horizon, a few scattered sails are just distinguishable.</p> + +<p>"It was one of those sights not to be soon forgotten, +and the king has evinced his taste in the selection +of such a spot for his palace. No beings can be +less poetical or imaginative than the Indo-Chinese; +their hearts never appear to expand to the genial +rays of the sun; yet they must have some appreciation +of this beautiful scenery, as they always fix upon +the finest sites for their pagodas and palaces.</p> + +<p>"Quitting this hill, we proceeded to another, like +it an extinct volcano or upheaved crater. Here are +four or five grottoes, two of which are of surprising +extent and extremely picturesque. A painting which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 212]</a></span> +represented them faithfully would be supposed the +offspring of a fertile imagination; no one would believe +it to be natural. The rocks, long in a state of +fusion, have taken, in cooling, those singular forms +peculiar to scoria and basalt. Then, after the sea +had retreated—for all these rocks have risen from +the bottom of the water—owing to the moisture continually +dripping through the damp soil, they have +taken the richest and most harmonious colors. These +grottoes, moreover, are adorned by such splendid +stalactites, which, like columns, seem to sustain the +walls and roofs, that one might fancy one's self present +at one of the beautiful fairy scenes represented at +Christmas in the London theatres.</p> + +<p>"If the taste of the architect of the king's palace +has failed in the design of its interior, here, at least, +he has made the best of all the advantages offered to +him by nature. A hammer touching the walls would +have disfigured them; he had only to level the +ground, and to make staircases to aid the descent into +the grottoes, and enable the visitors to see them in +all their beauty.</p> + +<p>"The largest and most picturesque of the caverns +has been made into a temple. All along the sides +are rows of idols, one of superior size, representing +Buddha asleep, being gilt.</p> + +<p>"We came down from the mountain just at the +moment of the king's arrival. Although his stay was +not intended to exceed two days he was preceded by +a hundred slaves, carrying an immense number of +coffers, boxes, baskets, etc. A disorderly troop of +soldiers marched both in front and behind, dressed in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 213]</a></span> +the most singular and ridiculous costumes imaginable. +The emperor Soulouque himself would have laughed, +for certainly his old guard must have made a better +appearance than that of his East Indian brother. +Nothing could give a better idea of this set of tatter-demalions +than the dressed-up monkeys which dance +upon the organs of the little Savoyards. Their apparel +was of coarse red cloth upper garments, which +left a part of the body exposed, in every case either +too large or too small, too long or too short, with +white shakos, and pantaloons of various colors; as +for shoes, they were a luxury enjoyed by few.</p> + +<p>"A few chiefs, whose appearance was quite in +keeping with that of their men, were on horseback +leading this band of warriors, while the king, attended +by slaves, slowly advanced in a little open carriage +drawn by a pony.</p> + +<p>"I visited several hills detached from the great +chain Khao Deng, which is only a few miles off. +During my stay here it has rained continually, and I +have had to wage war with savage foes, from whom +I never before suffered so much. Nothing avails +against them; they let themselves be massacred with +a courage worthy of nobler beings. I speak of mosquitoes. +Thousands of these cruel insects suck our +blood night and day. My body, face, and hands are +covered with wounds and blisters. I would rather +have to deal with the wild beasts of the forest. At +times I howl with pain and exasperation. No one +can imagine the frightful plague of these little +demons, to whom Dante has omitted to assign a +place in his infernal regions. I scarcely dare to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 214]</a></span> +bathe, for my body is covered before I can get into +the water. The natural philosopher who held up +these little animals as examples of parental love was +certainly not tormented as I have been.</p> + +<p>"About ten miles from Pechaburi I found several +villages inhabited by Laotians, who have been settled +there for two or three generations. Their costumes +consist of a long shirt and black pantaloons, like those +of the Cochin-Chinese, and they have the Siamese tuft +of hair. The women wear the same head-dress as the +Cambodians. Their songs, and their way of drinking +through bamboo pipes, from large jars, a fermented +liquor made from rice and herbs, recalled to +my mind what I had seen among the savage Stiêns. +I also found among them the same baskets and instruments +used by those tribes.</p> + +<p>"The young girls are fair compared to the Siamese, +and their features are pretty; but they soon grow +coarse and lose all their charms. Isolated in their +villages, these Laotians have preserved their language +and customs, and they never mingle with the +Siamese."</p> + +<p>To any one who has had experience of the Siamese +mosquitoes, it is delightful to find such thorough appreciation +of them as Mouhot exhibits. In number +and in ferocity they are unsurpassed. A prolonged +and varied observation of the habits of this insect, in +New Jersey and elsewhere, enables this editor to say +that the mosquitoes of Siam are easily chief among +their kind. The memory of one night at Paknam is +still vivid and dreadful. So multitudinous, so irresistible, +so intolerable were the swarms of these sangui<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 215]</a></span>nary +enemies that not only comfort, but health and +even life itself seemed jeopardized, as the irritation +was fast bringing on a state of fever. There seemed +no way but to flee. Orders were given to get up steam +in the little steamer which had brought us from Bangkok, +and we made all possible haste out of reach of +the shore and anchored miles distant in the safe +waters of the gulf till morning.</p> + +<p>Mouhot remained for four months among the +mountains of Pechaburi, "known by the names of +Makaon Khao, Panam Knot, Khao Tamoune, and +Khao Samroun, the last two of which are 1,700 and +1,900 feet above the level of the sea." He needed +the repose after the fatigue of his long journey, and +by way of preparation for his new and arduous explorations +of the Laos country, from which, as the result +proved, he was never to come back. He returned +to Bangkok, and after a brief season of preparation +and farewell, he started for the interior.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 216]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV.</h2> + +<h3>THE TRIBES OF NORTHERN SIAM</h3> + + +<p>Until recent years little has been known or said +of the inhabitants who occupy the remoter +districts of Siam. Owing to its debilitating climate +and the many dangers of travel in jungle and wilderness, +explorers have thus far made but meagre contributions +to our knowledge of the shy and savage +tribes in the north and west. In spite of our ignorance, +however, it is admitted that these various +races found in the Indo-Chinese peninsula present +problems of great ethnological interest, the solution of +which will some day explain the origins of many +language and race puzzles now quite insoluble. To +most foreigners, Siam is the city of Bangkok and its +neighborhood; yet, to obtain a fair conception of the +kingdom, as one of the foremost states of Asia, we +must understand the variety and extent of the country, +a few glimpses of which we may have through +the reports of those who have penetrated its wilds.</p> + +<p>For the most part, we are told by Mr. McCarthy, +whose six years' experience in superintending the +government survey, entitles him to respect as an +authority, "the people settle on the banks of the +rivers and are employed chiefly in cultivating rice. +There are but few villages distant from the large<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 217]</a></span> +rivers, and in the mountainous parts of the kingdom +the towns and villages are built in open flat valleys, +picturesquely surrounded by the mountains, which are +clothed with forests from top to bottom, the undergrowth +being so heavy that one seldom or never sees +any sport which would change the monotony of daily +trudging through mountains, where one's view is confined +to within ten yards around. There is one peculiar +feature in this population of different nationalities, +and that is that they do not amalgamate with +one another; thus it comes about that near Bangkok +itself villages of Burmans and Annamites are found +living in separate communities, preserving their own +language and customs."</p> + +<p>The region to the west of the Meinam is mostly +mountainous and a perfect wilderness of jungle, the +country being sparsely inhabited. A short distance +from the broad valley the high range appears which +forms the water-shed between the Gulf of Siam and +the Bay of Bengal. The portion of this range which +lies above the Malay peninsula appears to be drained +on its eastern slope, not by the "Mother of Waters" +itself, but by its neighbor, the Mei-Klong, running +almost parallel with it from the heights of the Karen +country to the Gulf. "This river to Kanburi," says +Dr. Collins, an American missionary who was the +first to cross the wild district between Bangkok and +Maulmein, "is an exceedingly winding, broad, clear, +shallow stream, with a slow current and well-defined +banks, on which are a few villages and many separated +habitations. The best land seemed to be in the hands +of Chinese, who cultivate tobacco, sugar-cane, cotton,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 218]</a></span> +and rice. Many of the Chinese located on the banks +of this river, as in other parts of Siam, have married +native women and form the best element of the population. +Quite a number are Roman Catholics, while +all are sober, industrious, orderly, and prosperous."</p> + +<p>After leaving his river-boat at Kanburi, the missionary +pursued his journey across country by elephant +through the regions occupied by the Karens, a +simple and hardy race of mountaineers, who worship +the forest spirits. This folk occupy in small numbers +the border-land between Siam and Lower Burmah. +"We saw," continues Dr. Collins, "very few +signs of animal life in the forests; generally a profound +silence reigned, broken only by the wild songs +of the Karens, or the cracking of bamboos in the +pathway of the elephants. It is true, in the early +mornings we would see along the river banks whole +families of monkeys basking in the warm sunshine, +and talking over the plans of the day, but as we +passed along they would retire into the depths of the +forest. These forests could not be infested with +tigers and other dangerous animals, as we frequently +passed Karen families on foot, journeying from one +village to another. The Karens have settlements all +through the jungle. Their small villages consist of a +few rude bamboo huts, and around them are cultivated +their upland rice and cotton, while the mountain +streams furnish them fish in abundance. Sometimes +they raise fowls, and cultivate sweet potatoes, +the red pepper, and flowers. They seldom remain +over two or three seasons in the valleys, but move +away to fresh land. Our forest paths led through<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 219]</a></span> +many abandoned Karen villages and plantations, +where now rank weeds and young bamboos supplant +the fields of rice and cotton. The Karens with whom +we came in contact were mountain heathen Karens. +They seemed to possess no wealth, cultivating only +sufficient land to clothe and feed themselves. The +women were fairer than the Siamese or Birmese; +and it was a pleasant sight to see them always cheerful +and industrious—pounding paddy, weaving their +garments, or otherwise occupied in their simple +household duties, and lightening their toil by singing +plaintive native songs." Owing to a tradition that +they would one day receive a religion from the West, +these people are said to be peculiarly amenable to +the influence and instruction of Christian missionaries.</p> + +<p>Of the Lao or Shan tribes owning allegiance to the +King of Siam, we have spoken very briefly in the +second chapter of this volume. They probably represent +the mixed and deteriorated remnant of the +aborigines who were originally driven from Central +China to occupy, under the national name of <i>Tai</i>, the +forests and coasts of Indo-China. Such accounts as +we possess of these peoples are fragmentary, and +often strangely contradictory, their tribal names and +divisions being applied by different travellers to a +great variety of localities. In general, although the +names are often used interchangeably, the word <i>Lao</i> +seems to be given to that part of the great Shan (or +Tai) race who live in the north and east of Siam, +some of their tribes coming down as far south as +the Cambodian frontier. Mr. Carl Bock, in his notes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 220]</a></span> +taken on the spot, explains that "there are six Lao +states directly tributary to Siam, all entirely independent +of each other, but with several minor states +dependent upon these larger ones. The rulers in all +these states, even the smaller ones, are autocratic in +their authority. Their chiefs hold office for life, but +their places are not hereditary, being filled nominally +by the King of Siam, but really on the election and +recommendation of the people, who send notice to +Bangkok on the decease of a chief, with a private intimation +of their views as to a successor. Tribute is +paid triennially, and takes the form of gold and silver +betel-boxes, vases, and necklaces, each enriched with +four rubies of the size of a lotus-seed, and a hundred +of the size of a grain of Indian corn. Besides these +are curious representations of trees in gold and silver, +about eight feet high, each with four branches, from +which again depend four twigs, with a single leaf at +the end of each. The gold trees are valued at 1,080 +ticals (£135) each, and the silver ones at 120 ticals +(£15) each.</p> + +<p>"Of all Laosians, those living in the extreme north +are the most backward, and from what has been said +it will be gathered that the instincts of the people +generally are not of a very high order. They are +mean to a degree; liberality and generosity are words +they do not understand; they are devoid of ordinary +human sympathy, being eaten up by an absorbing +desire to keep themselves—each man for himself—out +of the clutches of the spirits. Their highest +earthly ambition is to hoard up money, vessels and +ornaments of gold and silver, and anything else of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 221]</a></span> +value; as to the means adopted for obtaining which +they are not over-scrupulous. They are extremely +untruthful and wonderfully apt at making excuses, +and think no more of being discovered in a lie than +of being seen smoking. I give them credit, however, +of being, generally speaking, moral in their domestic +relations.</p> + +<p>"If a man's face is an index to his feelings, then +the Laosians must be bereft of all capacity to appreciate +any variety of mental emotions. It is the rarest +phenomenon to see any change in their countenance +or deportment, except—there is always one exception +to every rule—when they are aroused to anger. +This statement is more particularly true of the men, +but even the women—demonstrative as the sex usually +are—are seldom moved to either laughter or +tears. Whatever news a Laosian may receive, +whether of disaster or of joy, he hears it with a philosophic +indifference depicted on his calm, stoical +countenance that a European diplomatist would give +a fortune to be able to imitate. But when any sudden +feeling of anger or any latent resentment is +aroused, then the passion begins to display itself, if +not in any great change of facial expression, at any +rate in general demeanor and in quick, restless movements +of impatience and irritation."</p> + +<p>A rather more favorable estimate of Laosian character +is made by the missionaries who live among +them, and presumably know them better. "Considering +their disadvantages," says Miss McGilvary, +"the Laos are a remarkably refined race, as is shown +by many of their customs. Should a person be tell<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 222]</a></span>ing +another of the stream which he had crossed, and +wished to say it was ankle-deep, as he would feel a +delicacy in referring to his person, his expression +would be, 'I beg your pardon, but the water was ankle-deep.' +If one wished to reach anything above +another's head, he would beg the latter's pardon before +raising his hand. A great and passionate love +for flowers and music also indicates a delicacy of feeling. +Although before missionaries went there the +women did not know how to read, they were always +trained to be useful in their homes, and a Laos girl +who does not know how to weave her own dress is +considered as ignorant as a girl in this country who +does not know how to read.</p> + +<p>"The holiday which most interests the missionaries' +children is the New Year, when all, and especially +the young, give themselves up to a peculiar form of +merry-making, consisting in giving everyone a shower. +Armed with buckets of water and bamboo reeds, by +which they can squirt the water some distance, these +people place themselves at the doors and gates and +on the streets, ready to give any passer-by a drenching, +marking out as special victims those who are +foolish enough to wear good clothes on such a day. +It is most amusing to watch them, after exhausting +their supply of water, hasten to the river or well and +run back, fearing the loss of one opportunity. Sometimes +several torrents are directed on one individual; +then, after the drenching, shouts of laughter fill the +air. On this day the king and his court, with a long +retinue of slaves, go to the river. Some of the attendants +carry silver or brass basins filled with water<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 223]</a></span> +perfumed with some scented shrub or flower. When +the king reaches the river's brink he goes a few steps +into the water, where he takes his stand, while the +princes and nobles surround him. The perfumed +water is poured on the king's head, afterward on the +heads of the nobles, and they plunge into the river +with noisy splashings and laughter. The custom is +also observed in families. A basin of water is poured +on the head of the father, mother, and grandparents, +by the eldest son or by some respected member of the +family. The ceremony has some religious significance, +being symbolical of blessings and felicity; a +formula of prayer accompanies the ceremony in each +case."</p> + +<p>Like remote and uncivilized tribes the world over, +the Laos are extremely and fanatically superstitious. +Their fears of the supernatural are far more influential +in directing their daily lives than their respect +for the doctrines and practices of Buddhism, which +is their accepted religion. An interesting account of +one of their ruling delusions is quoted from Mr. +Holt Hallett's article on Zimmé (Cheung Mai) in +<i>Blackwood's Magazine</i> for September, 1889. "The +method practised when consulting the beneficent +spirits—who like mortals are fond of retaliating when +provoked—is as follows: When the physician's +skill has been found incapable of mastering a disease, +a spirit-medium—a woman who claims to be in communion +with the spirits—is called in. After arraying +herself fantastically, the medium sits on a mat +that has been spread for her in the front veranda, +and is attended to with respect, and plied with ar<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 224]</a></span>rack +by the people of the house, and generally accompanied +in her performance by a band of village musicians +with modulated music. Between her tipplings +she chants an improvised doggerel, which includes +frequent incantations, till at length, in the excitement +of her potations, and worked on by her song, her +body begins to sway about and she becomes frantic +and seemingly inspired. The spirits are then believed +to have taken possession of her body, and all +her utterances from that time are regarded as those +of the spirits.</p> + +<p>"On showing signs of being willing to answer +questions, the relations or friends of the sick person +beseech the spirits to tell them what medicines and +food should be given to the invalid to restore him or +her to health; what they have been offended at; and +how their just wrath may be appeased. Her knowledge +of the family affairs and misdemeanors generally +enables her to give shrewd and brief answers to the +latter questions. She states that the <i>Pee</i>—in this +case the ancestral, or, perhaps, village spirits—are +offended by such an action or actions, and that to +propitiate them such and such offerings should be +made. In case the spirits have not been offended, +her answers are merely a prescription, after which, if +only a neighbor, she is dismissed with a fee of two or +three rupees and, being more or less intoxicated, is +helped home. In case the spirit medium's prescription +proves ineffective, and the person gets worse, +witchcraft is sometimes suspected and an exorcist is +called in. The charge of witchcraft means ruin to +the person accused, and to his or her family. It<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 225]</a></span> +arises as follows: The ghost or spirit of witchcraft +is called Pee-Kah. No one professes to have seen +it, but it is said to have the form of a horse, from the +sound of its passage through the forest resembling +the clatter of a horse's hoofs when at full gallop. +These spirits are said to be reinforced by the deaths +of very poor people, whose spirits were so disgusted +with those who refused them food or shelter, that +they determined to return and place themselves at +the disposal of their descendants, to haunt their stingy +and hard-hearted neighbors. Should anyone rave +in delirium, a Pee-Kah is supposed to have passed +by. Every class of spirits—even the ancestral, and +those that guard the streets and villages—are afraid +of the Pee-Kah. At its approach the household +spirits take instant flight, nor will they return until it +has worked its will and retired, or been exorcised. +Yet the Pee-Kah is, as I have shown, itself an ancestral +spirit, and follows as their shadow the son and +daughter as it followed their parents through their +lives. It is not ubiquitous, but at one time may attend +the parent, and at another the child, when both +are living. Its food is the entrails of its living victim, +and its feast continues until its appetite is satisfied, +or the feast is cut short by the incantations of +the spirit-doctor or exorcist. Very often the result is +the death of its victim. When the witch-finder is +called in he puts on a knowing look, and after a cursory +examination of the person, generally declares +that the patient is suffering from a Pee-Kah. His +task is then to find out whose Pee-Kah is devouring +the invalid.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 226]</a></span></p> + +<p>"After calling the officer of the village and a few +headmen as witnesses, he commences questioning the +invalid. He first asks 'Whose spirit has bewitched +you?' The person may be in a stupor, half unconscious, +half delirious from the severity of the disease, +and therefore does not reply. A pinch or a stroke of +a cane may restore consciousness. If so, the question +is repeated; if not, another pinch or stroke is administered. +A cry of pain may be the result. That is +one step toward the disclosure; for it is a curious fact +that, after the case has been pronounced one of witchcraft, +each reply to the question, pinch, or stroke is +considered as being uttered by the Pee-Kah through +the mouth of the bewitched person. A person pinched +or caned into consciousness cannot long endure the +torture, especially if reduced by a long illness. Those +who have not the wish or the heart to injure anyone, +often refuse to name the wizard or witch until they +have been unmercifully beaten. Or the sick person +naming an individual as the owner of the spirit, other +questions are asked, such as, 'How many buffaloes +has he?' 'How many pigs?' 'How many chickens?' +'How much money?' etc. The answers to the questions +are taken down by a scribe. A time is then appointed +to meet at the house of the accused, and the +same questions as to his possessions are put to him. +If his answers agree with those of the sick person, he +is condemned and held responsible for the acts of his +ghost.</p> + +<p>"The case is then laid before the judge of the court, +the verdict is confirmed, and a sentence of banishment +is passed on the person and his or her family. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 227]</a></span> +condemned person is barely given time to sell or remove +his property. His house is wrecked or burnt, +and the trees in the garden cut down, unless it happens +to be sufficiently valuable for a purchaser to +employ an exorcist, who for a small fee will render +the house safe for the buyer; but it never fetches +half its cost, and must be removed from the haunted +ground. If the condemned person lingers beyond +the time that has been granted to him, his house is +set on fire, and, if he still delays, he is whipped out +of the place with a cane. If he still refuses to go, or +returns, he is put to death.</p> + +<p>"Some years ago a case came to the knowledge of +the missionaries, where two Karens were brought to +the city by some of their neighbors, charged with +causing the death of a young man by witchcraft. +The case was a clear one against the accused. The +young man had been possessed of a musical instrument, +and had refused to sell it to the accused, who +wished to purchase it. Shortly afterward he became +ill and died in fourteen days. At his cremation, a +portion of his body would not burn, and was of a +shape similar to the musical instrument. It was clear +that the wizards had put the form of the coveted instrument +into his body to kill him. The Karens were beheaded, +notwithstanding that they protested their innocence, +and threatened that their spirits should return +and wreak vengeance for their unjust punishment. In +Mr. Wilson's opinion, the charge of witchcraft often +arises from envy or from spite, and sickness for the +purpose of revenge is sometimes simulated. A neighbor +wants a house or garden, and the owner either re<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 228]</a></span>quires +more than he wishes to pay or refuses to sell. +Covetousness consumes his heart, and the witch-ghost +is brought into action. Then the covetous person, or +his child, or a neighbor falls ill, or feigns illness; the +ailment baffles the skill of the physician, and the +witch-finder is called in. Then all is smooth sailing, +and little is left to chance."</p> + +<p>The following paragraphs from the same article +give an agreeable picture of Cheung Mai, or Zimmé, +the chief town of this region, and the headquarters +of an important branch of the American Presbyterian +Mission.</p> + +<p>"The city of Zimmé, which lies 430 yards to the +west of the river, is divided into two parts, the one +embracing the other like the letter L on the south +and east sides. The inner city faces the cardinal +points, and is walled and moated all round. The +walls are of brick, 22 feet high, and crenelated at the +top, where they are 3-1/2 feet broad. The moat surrounding +the walls is 30 feet wide and 7 feet deep. +The outer city is more than half a mile broad, and +is partly walled and partly palisaded on its exterior +sides. Both cities are entered by gates leading in +and out of a fortified courtyard. The inner city contains +the palace of the head king, the residences of +many of the nobility and wealthy men, and numerous +religious buildings. In the outer city, which is +peopled chiefly by the descendants of captives, the +houses are packed closer together than in the inner +one, the gardens are smaller, the religious buildings +fewer, and the population more dense. The floors +of the houses are all raised six or eight feet from the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 229]</a></span> +ground, and the whole place has an air of trim neatness +about it. Dr. Cheek estimates the population +of the area covered by the city and its suburbs at +about one hundred thousand souls....</p> + +<p>"It is a pretty sight in the early morning to watch +the women and girls from neighboring villages +streaming over the bridge on their way to the market, +passing along in single file, with their baskets +dangling from each end of a shoulder-bamboo, or +accurately poised on their heads. The younger +women move like youthful Dianas, with a quick, +firm, and elastic tread, and in symmetry of form resemble +the ideal models of Grecian art. The ordinary +costume of these graceful maidens consists of +flowers in their hair, which shines like a raven's +wing and is combed back and arranged in a neat and +beautiful knot; a petticoat or skirt, frequently embroidered +near the bottom with silk, worsted, cotton, +or gold and silver thread; and at times a pretty silk +or gauze scarf cast carelessly over their bosom and +one shoulder. Of late years, moreover, the missionaries +have persuaded their female converts and +the girls in their schools to wear a neat white jacket, +and the custom is gradually spreading through the +city and into the neighboring villages. The elder +women wear a dark-blue cotton scarf which is sometimes +replaced by a white cotton spencer, similar to +that worn by married ladies in Burmah, and have an +extra width added to the top of their skirt which +can be raised and tucked in at the level of the armpit. +On gala occasions it is the fashion to twine +gold chains round the knot of their hair, and like<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 230]</a></span>wise +adorn it with a handsome gold pin. The +Shans are famous for their gold and silver chased +work; and beautifully designed gold and silver ornaments, +bracelets, necklaces, and jewel-headed cylinders +in their ear-laps are occasionally worn by the +wealthier classes."</p> + +<p>Notices of the wilder tribes who inhabit the northeast +of Siam are extremely inadequate, the region +being practically unvisited by Europeans, and almost +unknown to its titular sovereign, the king. The +French expedition under Lagrée passed through the +lower edge of the country on their toilsome journey +up the Mekong in 1867, and M. de Carné furnishes +us with some particulars of the natives in and about +the chief centre, Luang Phrabang. "One must go," +he says, "to the market to judge the variety of costumes +and types. At a glance at this mixed population +the least skilful of anthropologists would see +beforehand the inextricable confusion of races and +languages which he will meet at a short distance +from Luang-Praban. Numbers of savages who have +submitted to the king come every morning to the +town to sell or buy. They live in the mountains. +Their dress is extremely simple; so much so that it +could hardly be lessened.... The Laotians, +who are very proud of their half-civilization, look on +these savages as much inferior to themselves, and indeed +as almost contemptible. Every group of three +miserable huts of theirs has a name of its own, +known in the neighborhood; but the most important +village of the people, who may be regarded as the +original owners of the country, is called by the com<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 231]</a></span>mon +and scornful name of Ban-Kas [or Bang Kha,] +a kraal of savages. The stranger refuses to accept +this estimate formed by perverted pride. The savages +are hard workers, and the finest fields of rice +and noblest herds of cattle I have seen have been in +their parts of the country. They are all shy at first, +but they are easily brought to be familiar. How +often have I in my walks had to ask these children +of the woods for shelter from the sun, or water to +quench my thirst, or a mat on which to forget my +fatigue! They did not understand my words, but +divined with the quick instinct of hospitality the +wants which brought me among them, and hastened +to satisfy them. I have enjoyed positive feasts in +these huts, where the bamboo, worked in a hundred +ways, spread all the luxury before me it could display; +and I cannot recall without gratitude the recollection +of a collation made up of sticky rice, smoked +iguana legs, and pepper, which a savage, some sixty +years of age, whom I met in the forest, to whom my +long beard caused astonishment rather than fear, +offered me one day."</p> + +<p>This was during the Mohammedan rebellion in +southern China, when the natives south of the empire +enjoyed a comparative degree of peace and prosperity. +Since the conclusion of this and the Taiping +insurrection, and the sharp conflict of the French in +Annam, great numbers of Chinese, many of them the +dregs of their country, have flocked to this wild region, +and under their different "flags" or bands +have for many years past inflicted untold misery in +the gradual extermination of these harmless natives.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 232]</a></span> +The devastators of this beautiful region are known +generally as Haws. Our latest and most exact information +about them comes from Mr. McCarthy, who +was sent with a party by King Chulalonkorn to investigate +the raids perpetrated in the kingdom by +these wandering robbers. "The term Haw," he informs +us, "is the Lao word for Chinamen, but it is +now being applied to those worthies who employ +their time in plundering. It is supposed that they +were originally remnants of the old Taiping rebellion, +who settled in Tonquin and lent themselves as +soldiers to the then Annamite governors. In time +they became too powerful for the governors and +either exacted a large annual payment in silver or +became governors themselves. They ranged themselves +under different standards, the principal colors +of which were black, red, yellow and striped (red, +white and blue). The name of the chief of the standard +was written in Chinese characters on the principal +one. The bands were composed of Chinese +from Yunnan, Kwangsi, and Kwangtung [the three +southern provinces of China]. They ravaged the +countries near them, extending their operations +yearly, the governors of which used to employ another +band to revenge their wrongs; and in this way +the different flags were constantly fighting one against +another until the French war in Tonquin, when they +became united for the single purpose of fighting the +French.</p> + +<p>"It was the Haws of the striped banner who overran +Chiang Kwang or Muang Puen about the year +1873, and extended their ravages as far as Nongkai<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 233]</a></span> +[on the bend of the Mekong in about latitude 18°]; +here, however, they were destroyed by the Siamese. +They came back, and the same Siamese general, +Phraya Rat, who defeated them before, was sent +against them again. He was wounded, however, +shortly after making his attack upon their position, +and the Haws eventually escaped. The honor of destroying +the place fell to Phra Amarawasie, the son +of the prime-minister, who has done credit to the +training he received at the Royal Academy of Woolwich. +On the northeast of Luang Phrabang, Phraya +Suri Sak, a general in whom the king has always +placed implicit trust, has been operating against Black +Flags and Yellow Flags. These Black Flags are excellently +armed with Remingtons, Martini-Henries, Sniders, +and repeating rifles, and their ammunition is of +the best, being all solid brass cartridges from Kynoch +of Birmingham. I understand that an arrangement +has been entered into by which the Haws are to be +suppressed by the combined action of the French and +Siamese. Let us hope that these beautiful countries +will soon be restored to prosperity, and the inhabitants +left free to lead the peaceful lives they so much +desire."<a name="FNanchor_A_9" id="FNanchor_A_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_9" class="fnanchor">[A]</a></p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_9" id="Footnote_A_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_9"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society for March, 1888.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 234]</a></span></p></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI.</h2> + +<h3>SIAMESE LIFE AND CUSTOMS</h3> + + +<p>The impression which most travellers in Siam +have received in regard to the moral characteristics +of the people has been generally favorable, and +is on the whole confirmed by the judgment of +foreigners who have been longer resident among +them. They have, of course, the defects and vices +which are to be expected in a half savage people, +governed through many generations by the capricious +tyranny of an Oriental despotism. And the climate +and natural conditions of the country are not suited +to develop in them the hardier and nobler virtues. +Industry and self-sacrifice can hardly be looked for +as characteristics of people to whom nature is so +bountiful as to require of them no exertion to provide +either food or raiment. And, on the other hand, +with the sloth and inactivity to which nature invites, +the animal passions, by indulgence, often become +fierce and overmastering. But it seems to be agreed +that if the Siamese lack the industry and economy of +their neighbors, the Chinese, they have not the passionate +and sometimes treacherous character of the +Malays. To the traveller they seem inoffensive, almost +to timidity, and with a more than ordinary +share of "natural affection." One of the Roman<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 235]</a></span> +Catholic missionaries, quoted in Bowring, says, "Parents +know how to make themselves extremely beloved +and respected, and Siamese children have great +docility and sweetness. Parents answer to princes +for the conduct of their children; they share in their +chastisements, and deliver them up when they have +offended. If the son takes flight, he never fails to +surrender himself when the prince apprehends his +father or his mother, or his other collateral relations +older than himself, to whom he owes respect." Bowring +himself testifies that "of the affection of parents +for children and the deference paid by the +young to the old, we saw abundant evidence in all +classes of society. Fathers were constantly observed +carrying about their offspring in their arms, and +mothers engaged in adorning them. The king was +never seen in public by us without some of his +younger children near him; and we had no intercourse +with the nobles where numbers of little ones +were not on the carpets, grouped around their elders, +and frequently receiving attention from them."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus18" id="illus18"></a><img src="images/illus018.jpg" width="320" height="522" alt="SIAMESE WOMEN." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SIAMESE WOMEN.</span> +</div> + +<p>The large sums frequently expended in the decoration +of the little children with anklets and bracelets +and necklaces and chains of gold (often hundreds of +dollars in value and constituting their sole costume), +are another proof of the same parental fondness. +The great beauty of the children has attracted the +notice of almost all travellers, and they seem as amiable +as they are beautiful. Their skins are colored +with a fine powder, of a deep, golden color, and an +aromatic smell. "In the morning, Siamese mothers +may be seen industriously engaged in <i>yellowing</i> their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 236]</a></span> +offspring from head to heel. So universal is the +custom, that in caressing the children of the king or +nobles, you may be certain to carry away yellow +stains upon your dress. A small quantity mingled +with quick-lime makes a paste of a bright pink color, +of which the consumption is so large for spreading +on the betel-leaves which are used to wrap around the +areca-nut, that I have seen whole boatloads moving +about for sale amidst the floating bazaars on the +Meinam. This <i>curcuma</i> or Indian saffron is known +to be the coloring matter in the curries, mulligatawnies +and chutnees of India"—and is thus seen to be +available for the inside as well as the outside of +men.</p> + +<p>The relations between the sexes seem to be characterized +by propriety and decorum; and though +polygamy is permitted and practised by the higher +classes, and divorce is easy and somewhat frequent, +yet, "on the whole," says Bowring, "the condition +of woman is better in Siamese than in most Oriental +countries. The education of Siam women is little advanced. +Many of them are good musicians, but their +principal business is to attend to domestic affairs. +They are as frequently seen as men in charge of boats +on the Meinam. They generally distribute alms to +the bonzes, and attend the temples, bringing their offerings +of flowers and fruit. In the country they are +busied with agricultural pursuits. They have seldom +the art of plying the needle, as the Siamese garments +almost invariably consist of a single piece of cloth."</p> + +<p>Of the acuteness and wit of a people, the best +evidence is to be found in their familiar proverbs,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 237]</a></span> +and the following may be cited (from Bowring) in +illustration of their shrewd sense and Chinese aptitude +for seizing nature's hints.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus19" id="illus19"></a><img src="images/illus019.jpg" width="320" height="501" alt="SIAMESE ROPE-DANCER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SIAMESE ROPE-DANCER.</span> +</div> + +<p>"When you go into a wood, do not forget your +wood-knife.</p> + +<p>"An elephant though he has four legs may slip; +and a doctor is not always right.</p> + +<p>"Go up by land, you meet a tiger; go down by +water, you meet a crocodile.</p> + +<p>"If a dog bite you, do not bite him again."</p> + +<p>Between the luxury and splendor of the king's +court and the poverty of the common people there +is of course the greatest and most painful contrast. +The palaces of the king are filled with whatever the +wealth and power of their owner can procure. The +hovels of the common peasants are bare and comfortless, +the furniture consisting only of a few coarse +vessels of earthenware or wicker-work, and a mat or +two spread upon the floor. In houses of a slightly +better class will be found carpenter's tools, a movable +oven, various cooking utensils, both in copper and +clay, spoons of mother-of-pearl, plates and dishes in +metal and earthenware, and a large porcelain jar, and +another of copper for fresh water. There is also a +tea-set, and all the appliances for betel chewing and +tobacco smoking, some stock of provisions and condiments +for food.</p> + +<p>Probably the most reliable witnesses to the true +character of the Siamese are those Protestant missionaries +whose lives are passed in intimate association +with the people and devoted to doing them good. +From a recent book written by one of these, Miss M.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 238]</a></span> +L. Cort,<a name="FNanchor_A_10" id="FNanchor_A_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_10" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> we shall obtain a fair idea of life in Siam +and of certain customs dear to the common people.</p> + +<p>"Women enjoy greater liberty than in almost any +other Oriental land. You meet them everywhere; +and in the bazaars and markets nearly all the buying +and selling is done by them. As servants and slaves, +too, they are seen performing all sorts of labor in the +open streets. Still, they are downtrodden and considered +infinitely inferior to men. It is a significant +fact that although boys have been educated for past +centuries in the Buddhist monasteries, there are not +and have never been, so far as I can learn, any native +schools for girls. Quite a number, however, learn to +read in their own families, but such knowledge is +looked upon as a superfluous accomplishment, and +they are not encouraged in it, neither is any one +ashamed to acknowledge her ignorance of books.</p> + +<p>"The Siamese are a pleasant, good-natured people, +but lazy and indolent to the utmost degree, and vain, +shallow, and self-conceited. Their greatest vices are +lying, gambling, immorality, and intemperance, although +the latter is strictly forbidden by one of the +commandments in their Buddhist decalogue."</p> + +<p>The Siamese are deplorably susceptible to the evil +effects of alcohol and opium. Physically they are a +small and rather weakly race, and the effect of strong +drink upon them is shown in the rapid deterioration +of their bodily health; while their temperament, which +is by nature light, timid, and gay, becomes morose +and sullen under the same influence. The terrible +inroads which were at one time made on the health<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 239]</a></span> +and well-being of the people from the too-abundant +use of arrack, a native spirit distilled from rice, +brought these truths vividly before the minds of the +authorities, and led to the adoption of stringent +regulations affecting the sale of that spirit, to the +loss and much to the regret of the Chinese dealers +who had acquired a monopoly of the trade. A still +more determined crusade was undertaken against +opium-smoking, which was even held to be a blacker +and more pernicious habit than swilling arrack. +Strict laws prohibiting the practice were passed and +enforced; and any ill-starred Siamese now found +pipe in hand has the choice given him of either denationalizing +himself by adopting the Chinese pig-tail, +and paying an annual tax as an alien, or of suffering +death. In this traffic also the purveyors are +Chinese, who, while protesting, perhaps too much, +against the importation of the drug into their own +country, show no compunction whatever in distributing +it broadcast among the people of other nations.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_10" id="Footnote_A_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_10"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> Siam: or, The Heart of Farther India. New York, 1886.</p></div> + +<p>Returning to Miss Cort's account: "The dress of +the Siamese," she writes, "is very simple and comfortable, +consisting of a waist-cloth, jacket, and scarf, and +sometimes a hat and sandals. If all would at all +times wear the native dress there would be no occasion +for fault-finding. But as a nation they do not +know what shame is, and as the climate is mild and +pleasant, and the majority of the people poor and +careless, their usual dress consists of a simple waist-cloth, +adjusted in a very loose and slovenly manner; +while many children until they are ten or twelve years +old wear no clothing whatever. When foreigners first<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 240]</a></span> +arrive in Siam they are shocked almost beyond endurance +at the nudity of the people; and although they +constantly preach a gospel of dress, their influence in +this respect seems less apparent than in almost any +other. Not until Siam is clothed need she expect a +place among respectable, civilized nations.</p> + +<p>"The old-fashioned shave, which left a patch of +stiff bristles on the top of the head, like a shoe-brush, +is no longer the universal style. European +trims are fashionable in the capital, and some of the +young men are trying to cultivate the mustache, while +the women let their hair cover the whole head and +dress it with cocoanut oil. They shave their foreheads, +rub beeswax on their lips, powder their faces, and +perfume their bodies. They bend their joints back +and forth to make them supple, and give the elbow a +peculiarly awkward twist which they consider very +graceful.</p> + +<p>"Their salutations are decidedly peculiar. The +old style is to get down on all fours, and then resting +on the knees, raise the clasped hands three times +above the head, and also bow the head forward until +the brow touches the floor. They kiss with their +noses, by pressing them against their friends', and saying +'Very fragrant, very fragrant!' while they take +long, satisfied sniffs. Many are now learning to shake +hands and make graceful bows like Europeans, but +the imported kiss is not yet in vogue, and I do not +see that it ever can be until betel is discarded, for at +present the nose is a more kissable feature of the +Siamese face than the mouth.</p> + +<p>"The people are exceedingly fond of jewelry, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 241]</a></span> +often their gold chains and rings are the only adornment +the body can boast. Many a young girl refuses +to wear a jacket because it would cover up her chains, +which are worn as a hunter carries his game-bag, over +one shoulder and under the arm. She prefers a scarf +which she can arrange and rearrange, and thus display +the glitter of her golden ornaments. They wear a +great many gold rings, and their ear-rings are often +costly and beautiful. They also have gold armlets +and anklets and charms encircling neck and waist, and +the higher ranks now wear gold girdles with jewelled +clasps. The jewelry is of odd and unique designs—snake-bracelets; +necklaces of gold turtles, fish and +flowers, set with gems; dragon-headed rings, with +diamond, emerald, or ruby eyes, and a tongue that +moves. Some rings have little birds poised upon +them, with out-spread wings and sparkling with +jewels; golden elephants, and many other rich and +costly designs....</p> + +<p>"All ordinary Siamese houses must have three +rooms; indeed, so important is this number considered +to the comfort of the family, that the suitor must +often promise to provide three rooms ere the parents +will let him claim his bride. There is the common +bedroom, an outer room where they sit during the day +and receive their visitors, and the kitchen. Let me +begin at the latter and try to describe the dirty, dingy +place. Having no godliness, the next thing to it, cleanliness, +is entirely lacking. There is a rude box filled +with earth, where they build the fire and do what +they call the cooking; that is, they boil rice and make +curry, and roast fish and bananas over the coals. There<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 242]</a></span> +is no making of bread or pie, of cake or pudding; no +roasts, no gravies, no soups. Even vegetables are +seldom cooked at home, but are prepared by others +and sold in the markets, or peddled in the streets. +There they buy boiled sweet potatoes, green corn, and +preserved fruits, curries, roasted fish, and ants, peanuts, +and bananas, sliced pineapples, and melons, and +squash. Pickled onions and turnips are sold in the +streets of Bangkok just as pickled beets are in Damascus. +Curry is made of all sorts of things, but is +usually a combination of meat or fish, and vegetables. +If you want an English name for it that all can understand, +you must call it a stew. The ingredients +are chopped very fine or pounded in a mortar, especially +the red peppers, onions, and spices. The pre-dominant +flavor is red pepper, so hot and fiery that +your mouth will smart and burn for half an hour after +you have eaten it. Still many of the curries are very +good, and with steamed rice furnish a good meal. But +sometimes a 'broth of abominable things is in their +vessels,' as for instance, when they make curry of rats +or bats, or of the flesh of animals that have died of +disease, and they flavor it with <i>kapick</i>, a sort of rotten +fish, of which all Siamese are inordinately fond. +It is unrivalled in strength of fragrance and flavor. +Siam is unique in that she possesses two of the most +abominable things, and yet the most delicious, if we +believe what we hear, and they are the durian, a large +fruit found only on this peninsula, and 'kapick,' which +I hope is not found anywhere outside of Siam.</p> + +<p>"There is no regularity about their meals, and they +do not wait for one another, but eat when they get<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 243]</a></span> +hungry. In the higher families the men always eat +first and by themselves, and the wives and children +and dogs take what is left. The usual rule is for each +one to wash his own rice-bowl, and turn it upside down +in a basket in a corner of the kitchen, there to drip +and dry till the next time it is needed. They eat with +their fingers, very few having so much even as a spoon.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus20" id="illus20"></a><img src="images/illus020.jpg" width="320" height="208" alt="SIAMESE LADIES AT DINNER." title="" /> +<span class="caption">SIAMESE LADIES AT DINNER.</span> +</div> + +<p>"The kitchen floors are nearly all made of split +bamboos, with great cracks between, through which +they pour all the slops and push the dirt, so there is +no sweeping or scrubbing to do. Near the door are +several large earthen jars for water, which are filled +from the river by the women or servants as often as +they get empty, and here they wash their feet before +they enter the house. They also use brass basins and +trays a great deal, but for lack of scouring they are +discolored and green with verdigris, and I cannot help +thinking the use of such vessels is one fruitful source +of the dreadful sores and eruptions with which the +whole nation is afflicted."</p> + +<p>It would be hopeless to endeavor to describe all +the peculiarities of native fashion and thought, many +of which, indeed, are already disappearing under the +advancing tide of western civilization. Like all idolatrous +nations, the people are subject to rank superstitions +and curious fancies, some of them gross or +brutal, but more often whimsical in their extravagance. +To express, for example, the duration of a +<i>kop</i>, one of the divisions of eternity, they say that +when a stone ten miles square, which is visited once +a century by an angel who brushes it with a gossamer +web, is finally worn away, then a <i>kop</i> is com<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 244]</a></span>pleted. +Compared with other Asiatic nations, the +Siamese cannot be called cruel, what pain they inflict +comes in most cases from ignorance or obtuseness, +seldom from wantonness. Punishments, of +course, involve whipping, and in capital offences the +victim loses his head in the old-fashioned way. But, +Miss Cort tells us, "after taking a soothing draught, +provided by merciful Buddhists who wish to make +merit, the victim's eyes are bandaged and his ears +stuffed with mud, and thus he is at least partially +unconscious of the stroke that destroys his life.... +Some offenders, instead of being executed, are degraded +from all titles and rank, and condemned to +cut grass for elephants for life. They are branded +on the forehead, and have to cut the grass themselves; +no one is allowed to help them, nor can they +buy it with their own money." A glance at the +customs connected with birth, marriage, and death +will be interesting, and will serve to illustrate the +peculiarities of Siamese life.</p> + +<p>"Marriages," says Sir John Bowring, "are the +subject of much negotiation, undertaken, not directly +by the parents, but by 'go-betweens,' nominated by +those of the proposed bridegroom, who make proposals +to the parents of the intended bride. A +second repulse puts the extinguisher on the attempted +treaty; but if successful, a large boat, gayly +adorned with flags and accompanied by music, is +laden with garments, plate, fruits, betel, etc. In the +centre is a huge cake or cakes, in the form of a +pyramid, printed in bright colors. The bridegroom +accompanies the procession to the house of his future<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 245]</a></span> +father-in-law, where the lady's dowry and the day +for the celebration of the marriage are fixed. It is +incumbent on the bridegroom to erect or to occupy a +house near that of his intended, and a month or two +must elapse before he can carry away his bride. No +religious rites accompany the marriage, though +bonzes are invited to the feast, whose duration and +expense depend upon the condition of the parties. +Music is an invariable accompaniment. Marriages +take place early; I have seen five generations +gathered round the head of a family. I asked the +senior Somdetch how many of his descendants lived +in his palace; he said he did not know, but there +were a hundred or more. It was indeed a frequent +answer to the inquiry in the upper ranks, 'What +number of children and grandchildren have you?' +'Oh, multitudes; we cannot tell how many.' I inquired +of the first king how many children had been +born to him; he said, 'Twelve before I entered the +priesthood, and eleven since I came to the throne.' +I have generally observed that a pet child is selected +from the group to be the special recipient of the +smiles and favors of the head of the race.</p> + +<p>"Though wives or concubines are kept in any +number according to the wealth or will of the husband, +the wife who has been the object of the marriage +ceremony, called the Khan mak, takes precedence +of all the rest, and is really the sole legitimate +spouse; and she and her descendants are the only +legal heirs to the husband's possessions. Marriages +are permitted beyond the first degree of affinity. +Divorce is easily obtained on application from the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 246]</a></span> +woman, in which case the dowry is restored to the +wife. If there be only one child, it belongs to the +mother, who takes also the third, fifth, and all those +representing odd numbers; the husband has the +second, fourth, etc. A husband may sell a wife that +he has purchased, but not one who has brought him +a dowry. If the wife is a party to contracting debts +on her husband's behalf, she may be sold for their +redemption, but not otherwise."</p> + +<p>One natural result of polygamy is, not only to take +away from the beauty and dignity of the marriage +relation, but also to lessen the amount of ceremony +with which the marriage is celebrated. A Siamese +of the higher class is generally "so much married," +that it is hardly worth his while to make much fuss +about it, or indulge in much parade on the occasion. +Accordingly the ceremonial would seem to be much +less than that of burial. For a man can die but once, +and his funeral is not an event to be many times repeated.</p> + +<p>A singular custom connected with childbirth is described +by Dr. Bradley, a former American missionary. +The occasion was the first confinement of the +wife of the late second king, in the year 1835. Dr. +Bradley was dining with a party of friends at the +house of the Portuguese consul. He says: "Just +before we rose from table, a messenger from Prince +Chowfah-noi [the late second king] came, apologizing +for his master's absence from the dinner, and requesting +my attendance on his wife in her first parturition. +The call for me, although silently given, +was quickly understood by all the party, and the in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 247]</a></span>terest +which it excited was of no ordinary character, +because it indicated a violation of the sacred rules, +absurdities, and cruelties of Siamese midwifery, and +that too by the second man in the kingdom.</p> + +<p>"I was obedient to the call, and was forthwith +conducted thither in H. R. Highness's boat after +I had accompanied my wife to our home. The +prince was at the landing awaiting my arrival. His +salutation in English was most expressive, indicating +peculiar pleasure in seeing me, informing me that +his wife had given birth to a daughter a little before +my arrival, and saying that in accordance with Siamese +custom, she was lying by a fire. He expressed +great abhorrence of the custom, and desired me to prevail +upon his friends and the midwives to dispense +with it, and substitute the English custom. To confirm +him still more in his opinion that the English +custom was incomparably the best, I spread before +him many arguments and appealed to humanity itself. +He appeared to enter fully into my views, saying +that his wife was of the same opinion, but expressed +much fear that no improvement could be +made in her situation in consequence of the influence +of the ex-queen, his mother, and princesses and midwives.</p> + +<p>"I was not allowed to see his wife until after his +mother and princesses had retired, which was not till +quite late in the evening. The prince went a little +time before me to prepare the way, and then sent +his chamberlain to conduct me to the house of his +wife, where he received me and led me to the bedside +of his suffering companion. She was surrounded<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 248]</a></span> +by a multitude of old women affecting wondrous wisdom +in the treatment of their patient. The fiery ordeal +had indeed commenced, and the poor woman +was doomed to lie before a hot fire a full month. I +found the mother lying on a narrow wooden bench +without a cushion, elevated above the floor eight or +ten inches, with her bare back exposed to a hot fire +about eighteen inches distant. The fire, I presume +to say, was sufficiently hot to have roasted a spare-rib +at half the distance. Having lain a little time in this +position, she was rolled over and had her abdomen +exposed to the flame.</p> + +<p>"With all the reasoning and eloquence I could +employ, both through the prince and speaking directly +to them, I could not persuade the ignorant +women that it would be prudent to suspend their +course of treatment, even for a night, so that the +sufferer might have a little quiet rest on a comfortable +bed. They said that the plan of treatment +which I proposed was entirely new to them, and that +I was also a stranger, and therefore it would not do +at all to expose so honorable a personage to the dangers +of an <i>experiment</i>.</p> + +<p>"The prince then informed me that this amount +of fire was to be continued three days, after which +its intensity would have to be doubled, and continued +for 30 days, as it was the mother's first child. The +custom, he said, is to abridge the term to 25, 20, 18, +15, and 11 days, according to the number of children +the woman has had.</p> + +<p>"Having had a look at the infant princess lying +in a neatly-curtained bed, I retired from the place<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 249]</a></span> +with scarcely any expectation that my visit would effect +any immediate good.</p> + +<p>"I visited Chowfah-noi the next evening in company +with Mrs. B. The thought had occurred to me +that she could probably exert more influence with the +females than I could, and that possibly she might induce +them to adopt my plan of practice in relation to +the mother and the child. We were heartily welcomed +by his royal highness, who first took much +pleasure in showing us all his curiosities, and then +gave us an interview with his lady. She was still +lying by a hot fire, and complained much of soreness +of the hips from pressure on the hard couch. At +first she seemed to be somewhat abashed at the presence +of Mrs. B., whom she had never before seen. +But it was not long ere that was all exchanged for a +good degree of intimacy, seeing that she was a woman +like herself. Mrs. B. prevailed on her to take some +of my medicine and to have the child put to the +breast of its mother instead of giving it up to a wet-nurse. +But though she made the experiment in our +presence, there was no reason to think that it was +continued.</p> + +<p>"Two days later the prince sent for me in great +haste, about 2 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span>, to see his wife and child. I hastened +to the palace, but was too late to do anything +for the child, as it had died a little before my arrival. +The prince was evidently much affected at the death +of his first-born, and there was much weeping among +the relatives and servants, who had congregated in +multitudes in apartments adjacent to the room which +the mother occupied. The prince was very anxious<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 250]</a></span> +concerning his wife, and seemed to wish with all his +heart to have her taken out of the hands of native +physicians and placed under my care. This he labored +indefatigably to accomplish for more than two +hours, while I waited for the result. But to his +sorrow he at length reported that he could not succeed, +and said that his mother and sisters and physicians, +together with a multitude of conceited and +headstrong old women, were too much for him, and +that he would be obliged to allow them to go on in +their own way, however hazardous the consequences. +He wished me to give him the privilege of sending for +me if his wife should by her own physicians be considered +in a dangerous way. I had declined doing anything +in the case unless I could have the entire care +of the patient, fearing that if I attempted to administer +while the native means were being employed, +I should bring reproach both upon European medical +practice, and the dear cause which I had espoused."</p> + +<p>"Shaving the hair tuft of children is a great family +festival, to which relations and friends are invited, +to whom presents of cakes and fruits are sent. +A musket-shot announces the event. Priests recite +prayers, and wash the head of the young person, who +is adorned with all the ornaments and jewels accessible +to the parents. Music is played during the ceremony, +which is performed by the nearest relatives; +and congratulations are addressed, with gifts of silver, +to the newly shorn. Sometimes the presents +amount to large sums of money. Dramatic representations +among the rich accompany the festivity, +which in such case lasts for several days.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus21" id="illus21"></a><img src="images/illus021.jpg" width="320" height="474" alt="BUILDING ERECTED AT FUNERAL OF SIAMESE OF HIGH RANK." title="" /> +<span class="caption">BUILDING ERECTED AT FUNERAL OF SIAMESE OF HIGH RANK.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 251]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Education begins with the shaving the tuft, and +the boys are then sent to the pagodas to be instructed +by the bonzes in reading and writing, and in the dogmas +of religion. They give personal service in return +for the education they receive. That education +is worthless enough, but every Siamese is condemned +to pass a portion of his life in the temple, which +many of them never afterward quit. Hence, the +enormous supply of an unproductive, idle, useless +race.</p> + +<p>"When a Thaï (Siamese) is at the point of death +the talapoins are sent for, who sprinkle lustral water +upon the sufferer, recite passages which speak of the +vanity of earthly things from their sacred books, and +cry out, repeating the exclamation in the ears of the +dying, 'Arahang! arahang!' (a mystical word implying +the purity or exemption of Buddha from concupiscence). +When the dying has heaved his last +breath the whole family utter piercing cries, and address +their lamentations to the departed: 'O father +benefactor! why leave us? What have we done to +offend you? Why depart alone? It was your own +fault. Why did you eat the fruit that caused the +dysentery? We foretold it; why did not you listen +to us? O misery! O desolation! O inconstancy +of human affairs!' And they fling themselves at +the feet of the dead, weep, wail, kiss, utter a thousand +tender reproaches, till grief has exhausted its +lamentable expressions. The body is then washed +and enveloped in white cloth; it is placed in a coffin +covered with gilded paper, and decorated with tinsel +flowers. A daïs is prepared, ornamented with the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 252]</a></span> +same materials as the coffin, but with wreaths of flowers +and a number of wax-lights. After a day or two +the coffin is removed, not through the door, but +through an opening specially made in the wall; the +coffin is escorted thrice round the house at full speed, +in order that the dead, forgetting the way through +which he has passed, may not return to molest the +living. The coffin is then taken to a large barge, +and placed on a platform, surmounted by the daïs, to +the sound of melancholy music. The relations and +friends, in small boats, accompany the barge to the +temple where the body is to be burnt. Being arrived, +the coffin is opened and delivered to the officials +charged with the cremation, the corpse having +in his mouth a silver tical (2<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i> in value) to defray +the expenses. The burner first washes the face of +the corpse with cocoanut milk; and if the deceased +have ordered that his body shall be delivered to vultures +and crows, the functionary cuts it up and distributes +it to the birds of prey which are always assembled +in such localities. The corpse being placed +upon the pile, the fire is kindled. When the combustion +is over, the relatives assemble, collect the +principal bones, which they place in an urn, and convey +them to the family abode. The garb of mourning +is white, and is accompanied by the shaving of +the head. The funerals of the opulent last for two +or three days. There are fireworks, sermons from +the bonzes, nocturnal theatricals, where all sorts of +monsters are introduced. Seats are erected within +the precincts of the temples, and games and gambling +accompany the rites connected with the dead."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 253]</a></span></p> + +<p>At the death of any member of the royal family +the funeral ceremonies become a matter of national +importance. If it is the king who is dead the whole +country is in mourning; all heads are shaved. The +ceremonies at the cremation of the body of the late +first king lasted from the 12th of March (1870) till +the 21st of the same month. The king of Cheung-mai +came from his distant home among the Laos to +be present on the occasion; and the pomp and expense +of the ceremony, for which preparations had +been more than a year in progress, surpassed anything +that had been known in the history of Siam. +The following description of the funeral of one of +the high commissioners who negotiated the English +treaty, and who died a few days after the signing of +the treaty, was furnished to Sir John Bowring by +an eye-witness. The ceremonies at the royal funeral +were not dissimilar, though on a more extensive +scale.</p> + +<p>"The building of the <i>men</i>, or temple, in which +the burning was to take place, occupied four months, +during the whole of which time between three and +four hundred men were constantly engaged. The +whole of it was executed under the personal superintendence +of the 'Kalahome.'</p> + +<p>"It would be difficult to imagine a more beautiful +object than this temple was, when seen from the opposite +side of the river. The style of architecture +was similar to that of the other temples in Siam; +the roof rising in the centre, and thence running +down in a series of gables, terminating in curved +points. The roof was covered entirely with scarlet<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 254]</a></span> +and gold, while the lower part of the building was +blue, with stars of gold. Below, the temple had four +entrances leading directly to the pyre; upon each +side, as you entered, were placed magnificent mirrors, +which reflected the whole interior of the building, +which was decorated with blue and gold, in the +same manner as the exterior. From the roof depended +immense chandeliers, which at night increased +the effect beyond description. Sixteen large +columns, running from north to south, supported the +roof. The entire height of the building must have +been 120 feet, its length about fifty feet, and breadth +forty feet. In the centre was a raised platform, +about seven feet high, which was the place upon +which the urn containing the body was to be placed. +Upon each side of this were stairs covered with scarlet +and gold cloth.</p> + +<p>"This building stood in the centre of a piece of +ground of about two acres extent, the whole of which +ground was covered over with close rattan-work, in +order that visitors might not wet their feet, the +ground being very muddy.</p> + +<p>"This ground was enclosed by a wall, along the inside +of which myriads of lamps were disposed, rendering +the night as light as the day. The whole of +the grounds belonging to the adjoining temple contained +nothing but tents, under which Siamese plays +were performed by dancing-girls during the day. +During the night, transparencies were in vogue. +Along the bank of the river, Chinese and Siamese +plays (performed by men) were in great force, and +to judge by the frequent cheering of the populace, no<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 255]</a></span> +small talent was shown by the performers, which +talent in Siam consists entirely in obscenity and vulgarity.</p> + +<p>"All approaches were blocked long before daylight +each morning, by hundreds—nay, thousands of +boats of every description in Siam, <i>sampans</i>, <i>mapet</i>, +<i>mak'êng</i>, <i>ma guen</i>, etc., etc.; these were filled with +presents of white cloth, no other presents being accepted +or offered during a funeral. How many shiploads +of fine shirting were presented during those few +days it is impossible to say. Some conception of the +number of boats may be had from the fact that, in +front of my floating house I counted seventy-two +large boats, all of which had brought cloth.</p> + +<p>"The concourse of people night and day was quite +as large as at any large fair in England; and the +whole scene, with the drums and shows, the illuminations +and the fireworks, strongly reminded me of +Greenwich Fair at night. The varieties in national +costume were considerable, from the long flowing +dresses of the Mussulman to the scanty <i>pan-hung</i> +of the Siamese.</p> + +<p>"Upon the first day of the ceremonies, when I +rose at daylight, I was quite surprised at the number +and elegance of the large boats that were dashing +about the river in every direction. Some of them +with elegantly-formed little spires (two in each boat) +of a snowy-white, picked out with gold, others with +magnificent scarlet canopies with curtains of gold, +others filled with soldiers dressed in red, blue, or +green, according to their respective regiments, the +whole making a most effective <i>tableau</i>, far superior<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[Pg 256]</a></span> +to any we had during the time the embassy was +here.</p> + +<p>"Whilst I was admiring this scene I heard the cry +of <i>Sedet</i> (the name of the king when he goes out), +and turning round, beheld the fleet of the king's +boats sweeping down. His majesty stopped at the +<i>men</i>, where an apartment had been provided for +him. The moment the king left his boat, the most +intense stillness prevailed—a silence that was absolutely +painful. This was, after the lapse of a few +seconds, broken by a slight stroke of a tom-tom. +At that sound every one on shore and in the boats +fell on his knees, and silently and imperceptibly +the barge containing the high priest parted from the +shore at the Somdetch's palace, and floated with the +tide toward the <i>men</i>. This barge was immediately +followed by that containing the urn, which was +placed upon a throne in the centre of the boat. One +priest knelt upon the lower part of the urn, in front, +and one at the back. (It had been constantly +watched since his death.) Nothing could exceed the +silence and <i>immovability</i> of the spectators. The tales +I used to read of nations being turned to statues +were here realized, with the exception that all had +the same attitude. It was splendid, but it was fearful. +During the whole of the next day, the urn +stayed in the <i>men</i>, in order that the people might +come and pay their last respects.</p> + +<p>"The urn, or rather its exterior cover, was composed +of the finest gold, elegantly carved and studded +with innumerable diamonds. It was about five feet +high and two feet in diameter.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[Pg 257]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Upon the day of the burning the two kings arrived +about 4 <span class="smcap">P.M.</span> The golden cover was taken off, +and an interior urn of brass now contained the body, +which rested upon cross-bars at the bottom of the urn. +Beneath were all kinds of odoriferous gums.</p> + +<p>"The first king, having distributed yellow cloths +to an indefinite quantity of priests, ascended the steps +which led to the pyre, holding in his hand a lighted +candle, and set fire to the inflammable materials beneath +the body. After him came the second king, +who placed a bundle of candles in the flames; then +followed the priests, then the princes, and lastly the +relations and friends of the deceased. The flames +rose constantly above the vase, but there was no unpleasant +smell.</p> + +<p>"His majesty, after all had thrown in their candles, +returned to his seat, where he distributed to the +Europeans a certain number of limes, each containing +a gold ring or a small piece of money. Then he commenced +<i>scrambling</i> the limes, and seemed to take particular +pleasure in just throwing them between the +princes and the missionaries, in order that they might +meet together in the 'tug of war.'</p> + +<p>"The next day the bones were taken out, and distributed +among his relations, and this closed the ceremonies. +During the whole time the river each night +was covered with fireworks, and in Siam the pyrotechnic +art is far from being despicable."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[Pg 258]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII.</h2> + +<h3>NATURAL PRODUCTIONS OF SIAM</h3> + + +<p>The varieties of animal and vegetable life with +which the tropics everywhere abound are in +Siam almost innumerable. From the gigantic elephant +and rhinoceros in the jungle to the petty mosquitoes +that infest the dwellings and molest the slumbers +of the crowded city; from the gigantic Indian +fig-tree to the tiniest garden-blossom, an almost infinite +diversity of life and growth invites attention. +The work of scientific observation and classification +has been, as yet, only very imperfectly accomplished. +Much has been done by the missionaries, especially +by Dr. House of the American Presbyterian Mission, +who is a competent and scientific observer. And the +lamented Mouhot, gathered vast and valuable collections +in the almost unexplored regions to which he +penetrated. But no doubt there are still undiscovered +treasures of which men of science will presently lay +hold.</p> + +<p>"Elephants," says Bowring, "are abundant in the +forests of Siam, and grow sometimes to the height of +twelve or thirteen feet. The habits of the elephant +are gregarious; but though he does not willingly attack +a man, he is avoided as dangerous; and a troop +of elephants will, when going down to a river to drink,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[Pg 259]</a></span> +submerge a boat and its passengers. The destruction +even of the wild elephant is prohibited by royal +orders, yet many are surreptitiously destroyed for the +sake of their tusks. At a certain time of the year +tame female elephants are let loose in the forests. +They are recalled by the sound of a horn, and return +accompanied by wild males, which they compel, by +blows of the proboscis, to enter the walled prisons +which have been prepared for their capture. The +process of taming commences by keeping them for +several days without food. Then a cord is passed +round their feet, and they are attached to a strong +column. The delicacies of which they are most fond +are then supplied them, such as sugar-canes, plantains, +and fresh herbs, and at the end of a few days the +animal is domesticated and resigned to his fate.</p> + +<p>"Without the aid of the elephant it would scarcely +be possible to traverse the woods and jungles of Siam. +He makes his way as he goes, crushing with his +trunk all that resists his progress; over deep morasses +or sloughs he drags himself on his knees and belly. +When he has to cross a stream he ascertains the +depth by his proboscis, advances slowly, and when he +is out of his depth he swims, breathing through his +trunk, which is visible when the whole of his body is +submerged. He descends into ravines impassable +by man, and by the aid of his trunk ascends steep +mountains. His ordinary pace is about four to five +miles an hour, and he will journey day and night if +properly fed. When weary, he strikes the ground +with his trunk, making a sound resembling a horn, +which announces to his driver that he desires re<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[Pg 260]</a></span>pose. +In Siam the howdah is a great roofed basket, +in which the traveller, with the aid of his cushions, +comfortably ensconces himself. The motion is disagreeable +at first, but ceases to be so after a little +practice.</p> + +<p>"Elephants in Siam are much used in warlike expeditions, +both as carriers and combatants. All the +nobles are mounted on them, and as many as a thousand +are sometimes collected. They are marched +against palisades and entrenchments. In the late +war with Cochin-China the Siamese general surprised +the enemy with some hundreds of elephants, to whose +tails burning torches were attached. They broke +into the camp, and destroyed more than a thousand +Cochin-Chinese, the remainder of the army escaping +by flight.</p> + +<p>"Of elephants in Siam, M. de Bruguières gives +some curious anecdotes. He says that there was one +in Bangkok which was habitually sent by his keeper +to collect a supply of food, which he never failed to +do, and that it was divided regularly between his +master and himself on his return home; and that +there was another elephant, which stood at the door +of the king's palace, before whom a large vessel +filled with rice was placed, which he helped out with +a spoon to every talapoin (bonze) who passed.</p> + +<p>"His account of the Siamese mode of capturing +wild elephants is not dissimilar to that which has +been already given. But he adds that in taming the +captured animals every species of torture is used. He +is lifted by a machine in the air, fire is placed under +his belly, he is compelled to fast, he is goaded with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 261]</a></span> +sharp irons, till reduced to absolute submission. The +tame elephants co-operate with their masters, and, +when thoroughly subdued, the victim is marched +away with the rest.</p> + +<p>"Some curious stories are told by La Loubère of +the sagacity of elephants, as reported by the Siamese. +In one case an elephant, upon whose head his keeper +had cracked a cocoanut, kept the fragments of the +nut-shell for several days between his forelegs, and +having found an opportunity of trampling on and +killing the keeper, the elephant deposited the fragments +upon the dead body.</p> + +<p>"I heard many instances of sagacity which might +furnish interesting anecdotes for the zoölogist. The +elephants are undoubtedly proud of their gorgeous +trappings, and of the attentions they receive. I was +assured that the removal of the gold and silver rings +from their tusks was resented by the elephants as +an indignity, and that they exhibited great satisfaction +at their restoration. The transfer of an elephant +from a better to a worse stabling is said to be accompanied +with marks of displeasure."</p> + +<p>If the elephant is in Siam the king of beasts, the +white elephant is the king of elephants. This famous +animal is simply an albino, and owes his celebrity +and sanctity to the accident of disease. He is not +really white (except in spots); his color is a faded +pink, or, as Bowring states of the specimen he saw, +a light mahogany. In September, 1870, however, a +very extraordinary elephant arrived in Bangkok, having +been escorted from Paknam with many royal honors. +A large part of the body of this animal was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[Pg 262]</a></span> +really white, and great excitement and delight was +produced by its arrival at the capital. The elephant +which Bowring saw and described died within a year +after his visit. She occupied a large apartment within +the grounds of the first king's palace, and not +far off, in an elevated position, was placed a golden +chair for the king to occupy when he should come +to visit her. "She had a number of attendants, who +were feeding her with fresh grass (which I thought +she treated somewhat disdainfully), sugar-cane, and +plantains. She was richly caparisoned in cloth of +gold and ornaments, some of which she tore away and +was chastised for the offence by a blow on the proboscis +by one of the keepers. She was fastened to an +upright pole by ropes covered with scarlet cloth, but +at night was released, had the liberty of the room, +and slept against a matted and ornamented partition, +sloping from the floor at about an angle of forty-five +degrees. In a corner of the room was a caged monkey, +of pure white, but seemingly very active and mischievous. +The prince fed the elephant with sugar-cane, +which appeared her favorite food; the grass she +seemed disposed to toss about rather than to eat. She +had been trained to make a salaam by lifting her proboscis +over the neck, and did so more than once at the +prince's bidding. The king sent me the bristles of +the tail of the last white elephant to look at. They +were fixed in a gold handle, such as ladies use for +their nosegays at balls."</p> + +<p>There seems some reason for believing that the +condition of the white elephant is not at present +quite so luxurious as it used to be, and a correspond<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[Pg 263]</a></span>ent +of Miss Cort is quoted as saying—"I think it is +time the popular fallacy about feeding the white elephant +from gold dishes, and keeping him in regal +splendor was exploded. Except on state occasions +it has no foundation in fact." Advancing civilization +begins to make it evident, even to the Siamese, +that there are other things more admirable and more +worthy of reverence. It was noticed that the late +second king, especially, did not always speak of the +noble creature with the solemnity which ancient +usage would have justified, and even seemed to +think that there was something droll in the veneration +which was given to it. But the superstition in +regard to it is by no means extinct, and the presence +of one of these animals is still believed to be a +pledge of prosperity to the king and country. +"Hence," says Bowring, "the white elephant is +sought with intense ardor, the fortunate finder rewarded +with honors, and he is treated with attention +almost reverential. This prejudice is traditional +and dates from the earliest times. When a tributary +king or governor of a province has captured a +white elephant he is directed to open a road through +the forest for the comfortable transit of the sacred +animal, and when he reaches the Meinam he is received +on a magnificent raft, with a chintz canopy +and garlanded with flowers. He occupies the centre +of the raft and is pampered with cakes and sugar. +A noble of high rank, sometimes a prince of royal +blood (and on the last occasion both the first and +second kings), accompanied by a great concourse of +barges, with music and bands of musicians, go forth<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">[Pg 264]</a></span> +to welcome his arrival. Every barge has a rope attached +to the raft, and perpetual shouts of joy attend +the progress of the white elephant to the capital, +where on his arrival he is met by the great dignitaries +of the state, and by the monarch himself, who +gives the honored visitor some sonorous name and +confers on him the rank of nobility. He is conducted +to a palace which is prepared for him, where +a numerous court awaits him, and a number of officers +and slaves are appointed to administer to his +wants in vessels of gold and silver."</p> + +<p>It is believed that these albinos are found only in +Siam and its dependencies, and the white elephant +(on a red ground) has been made the flag of the +kingdom. It is probable enough that the festival of +the white elephant, which at the present day is celebrated +in Japan (the elephant being an enormous +pasteboard structure "marching on the feet of men +enclosed in each one of the four legs"), may be a +tradition of the intercourse between that country +and Siam, which was formerly more intimate than +at present.</p> + +<p>"The white monkeys enjoy almost the same privileges +as the white elephant; they are called <i>pája</i>, +have household and other officers, but must yield +precedence to the elephant. The Siamese say that +'the monkey is a man—not very handsome to be +sure; but no matter, he is not less our brother.' If +he does not speak, it is from prudence, dreading lest +the king should compel him to labor for him without +pay; nevertheless, it seems he has spoken, for +he was once sent in the quality of generalissimo to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[Pg 265]</a></span> +fight, if I mistake not, an army of giants. With one +kick he split a mountain in two, and report goes +that he finished the war with honor.</p> + +<p>"The Siamese have more respect for white animals +than for those of any other color. They say +that when a talapoin meets a white cock he salutes +him—an honor he will not pay a prince."</p> + +<p>Tigers are abundant in the jungle, but are more +frequently dangerous to other animals, both wild and +domestic, than to men. The rhinoceros, the buffalo, +bears, wild pigs, deer, gazelles, and other smaller +animals inhabit the forests. Monkeys are abundant. +In Cambodia Mouhot found several new species. +And the orang-outang is found on the Malayan peninsula. +Various species of cats, and among them +tailless cats like those of Japan, are also to be found. +Bats are abundant, some of them said to be nearly +as large as a cat. They are fond of dwelling among +the trees of the temple-grounds, and Pallegoix says +(but it seems that the good Bishop must have overstated +the case, as other travellers have failed to +notice such a phenomenon) that "at night they hang +over the city of Bangkok like a dense black cloud, +which appears to be leagues in length."</p> + +<p>Birds are abundant, and often of great size and +beauty; some of them sweet singers, some of them +skilful mimics, some of them useful as scavengers. +Peacocks, parrots, parroquets, crows, jays, pigeons, +in great numbers and variety, inhabit the forest +trees.</p> + +<p>What the elephant is in the forest, the crocodile +is in the rivers, the king of creeping things. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[Pg 266]</a></span> +eggs of the crocodile are valued as a delicacy; but +the business of collecting them is attended with so +many risks that it is not regarded as a popular or +cheerful avocation. It will be well for the collector +to have a horse at hand on which he can take immediate +flight. The infuriated mother seldom fails, +says Pallegoix, to rush out in defence of her progeny.</p> + +<p>"At Bangkok there are professional crocodile-charmers. +If a person is reported to have been +seized by a crocodile, the king orders the animal to +be captured. The charmer, accompanied by many +boats, and a number of attendants with spears and +ropes, visits the spot where the presence of the crocodile +has been announced, and, after certain ceremonies, +writes to invite the presence of the crocodile. +The crocodile-charmer, on his appearance, springs on +his back and gouges his eyes with his fingers; while +the attendants spring into the water, some fastening +ropes round his throat, others round his legs, till the +exhausted monster is dragged to the shore and deposited +in the presence of the authorities." Father +Pallegoix affirms that the Annamite Christians of +his communion are eminently adroit in these dangerous +adventures, and that he has himself seen as +many as fifty crocodiles in a single village so taken, +and bound to the uprights of the houses. But his +account of the Cambodian mode of capture is still +more remarkable. He says that the Cambodian +river-boats carry hooks, which, by being kept in motion, +catch hold of the crocodiles, that during the +struggle a knot is thrown over the animal's tail, that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[Pg 267]</a></span> +the extremity of the tail is cut off, and a sharp bamboo +passed through the vertebræ of the spine into +the brain, when the animal expires.</p> + +<p>There are many species of lizards, the largest is +the <i>takuet</i>. His name has passed into a Siamese +proverb, as the representative of a crafty, double-dealing +knave, as the takuet has two tongues, or +rather one tongue divided into two." This is perhaps +the lizard (about twice as large as the American +bull-frog) which comes into the dwellings unmolested +and makes himself extremely useful by his destruction +of vermin. He is a noisy creature, however, +with a prodigious voice. He begins with a loud and +startling whirr-r-r-r, like the drumming of a partridge +or the running down of an alarm-clock, and +follows up the sensation which he thus produces by +the distinct utterance of the syllables, "To-kay," +four or five times repeated. He is not only harmless, +but positively useful, but it takes a good while for a +stranger to become so well acquainted with him that +the sound of his cry from the ceiling, over one's bed +for instance, and waking one from a sound sleep, is +not somewhat alarming.</p> + +<p>There is no lack of serpents, large and small. Pallegoix +mentions one that will follow any light or +torch in the darkness, and is only to be avoided by +extinguishing or abandoning the light which has attracted +him. There are serpent-charmers, as in other +parts of India. They extract the poison from certain +kinds of vipers, and then train them to fight with +one another, to dance, and perform various tricks.</p> + +<p>Pallegoix mentions one or two varieties of fish that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_321" id="Page_321">[Pg 268]</a></span> +are interesting, and, so far as known, peculiar to +Siamese waters. One, "a large fish, called the mengphu, +weighing from thirty to forty pounds, of a +bright greenish-blue color, will spring out of the +water to attack and bite bathers." He says there +"is also a tetraodon, called by the Siamese the moon, +without teeth, but with jaws as sharp as scissors. It +can inflate itself so as to become round as a ball. It +attacks the toes, the calf, and the thighs of bathers, +and, as it carries away a portion of the flesh, a wound +is left which it is difficult to heal."</p> + +<p>Of centipedes, scorpions, ants, mosquitoes, and the +various pests and plagues common to all tropical +countries it is not necessary to speak in detail.</p> + +<p>Sir John Bowring considered that sugar was likely +to become the principal export of Siam, but thus far +it would seem that rice has taken the precedence. +The gutta-percha tree, all kinds of palms, and of +fruits a vast and wonderful variety (among which +are some peculiar to Siam), are abundant. The +durian and mangosteen are the most remarkable, and +have already been described. So far as is known, +they grow only in the regions adjacent to the Gulf of +Siam and the Straits of Sunda. And though there +are many fruits common to these and to all tropical +countries which are more useful (such as the banana, +of which there are said to be in Siam not less than +fifty varieties, "in size from a little finger to an elephant's +tusk"), there are none more curious than +these. The season of the mangosteen is the same +with that of the durian. The tree grows about +fifteen feet high, and the foliage is extremely glossy<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[Pg 269]</a></span> +and dark. The fruit may be eaten in large quantities +with safety, and is of incomparable delicacy of +flavor. No fruit in the world has won such praises +as the mangosteen.</p> + +<p>Of the mineral treasures of Siam, enough has been +already indicated in the description of the wealth and +magnificence which is everywhere apparent. We +need only add that coal of excellent quality and in +great abundance has been recently discovered, and +that the country is also rich in petroleum, which +awaits the wells and refineries by which it may be +profitably used. Gold and silver mines are both +known but little is produced from them. The government +is obliged to import Mexican dollars in order +to melt and recoin them in the new mint.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_323" id="Page_323">[Pg 270]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a>CHAPTER XVIII.</h2> + +<h3>CHRISTIAN MISSIONS IN SIAM—THE OUTLOOK FOR +THE FUTURE</h3> + + +<p>No account of the present condition of Siam can +be at all complete which does not notice the +history of missionary enterprise in that country. Allusion +has already been made to the efforts of Roman +Catholic missionaries, Portuguese and French, to introduce +Christianity and to achieve for the Church a +great success by the conversion of the king and his +people. The scheme failed, and the political intrigue +which was involved in it came also to an ignominious +conclusion; and the first era of Roman +Catholic missions in Siam closed in 1780, when a +royal decree banished the missionaries from the kingdom. +They did not return in any considerable numbers, +or to make any permanent residence until 1830. +In that year the late Bishop Pallegoix, to whom we +owe much of our knowledge of the country and the +people (and who died respected and beloved by +Buddhists as well as Christians), was appointed to resume +the interrupted labors of the Roman Catholic +Church. Under his zealous and skilful management, +much of a certain kind of success has been +achieved, but very few of the converts are to be +found among the native Siamese. There is at pres<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">[Pg 271]</a></span>ent +on the ground a force of about twenty missionaries, +including a vicar apostolic and a bishop, with +churches at ten or a dozen places in the kingdom. +Their converts and adherents are chiefly from the +Chinese, Portuguese half-castes, and others who value +the political protection conferred by the priests.</p> + +<p>The religious success of the Protestant missionaries, +which has not been over-encouraging, has also been +in the first place, and largely, among the Chinese residents. +A few Siamese converts are reported within +the past few years, and their number is steadily increasing. +The first Protestant mission was that of +the American Baptist Board, which was on the +ground within three years after the arrival of Bishop +Pallegoix, though several American missionaries of +other denominations had been in the country and +translated religious books before this. The Baptists +were followed within a few years by Congregationalists +and Presbyterians from the United States. But +"as time passed on one agency after another left the +field, until to-day the entire work of Christianizing +the Siamese is left to the Board of Foreign Missions +of the Presbyterian Church in the United States," +which began work in Bangkok of 1840.</p> + +<p>At first sight their efforts, if measured by a count +of converts, might seem to have resulted in failure. +The statistics show but little accomplished; the roll +of communicants seems insignificant. And of the +sincerity and intelligence even of this small handful +there are occasional misgivings. On the whole, those +who are quick to criticise and to oppose foreign missions +might seem to have a good argument and to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[Pg 272]</a></span> +find a case in point in the history of missions in +Siam.</p> + +<p>But really the success of these efforts has been extraordinary, +although the history of them exhibits an +order of results almost without precedent. Ordinarily, +the religious enlightenment of a people comes +first, and the civilization follows as a thing of course. +But here the Christianization of the nation has +scarcely begun, but its civilization has made (as this +volume has abundantly shown) much more than a +beginning.</p> + +<p>For it is to the labors of the Christian missionaries +in Siam that the remarkable advancement of the +kings and nobles, and even of some of the common +people, in general knowledge and even in exact science, +is owing. The usurpation which kept the last +two kings (the first and second) nearly thirty years +from their thrones was really of great advantage both +to them and to their kingdom. Shut out from any +very active participation in political affairs, their +restless and intelligent minds were turned into new +channels of activity. The elder brother in his cloister, +the younger in his study and his workshop, busied +themselves with the pursuit of knowledge. The +elder, as a priest of Buddhism, turned naturally to +the study of language and literature. The younger +busied himself with natural science, and more especially +with mathematical and military science. The +Roman Catholic priests were ready instructors of the +elder brother in the Latin language. And among +the American missionaries there were some with a +practical knowledge of various mechanical arts. It<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">[Pg 273]</a></span> +was from them that the two brothers learned English +and received the assistance and advice which they +needed in order to perfect themselves in Western +science. At a very early day they began to be familiar +with them; to receive them and their wives on +terms of friendly and fraternal intimacy; to send for +them whenever counsel or practical aid was needed in +their various philosophical pursuits and experiments. +Through the printing-presses of the Protestant missions +much has been done to arouse the people from +the lethargy of centuries and to diffuse among them +useful intelligence of every sort. The late king was +not content until he established a press of his own, of +which he made constant and busy use. The medical +missionaries, by their charitable work among the +rich, in the healing of disease and by instituting various +sanitary and precautionary expedients, have +done much to familiarize all classes with the excellence +of Western science, and to draw attention and +respect to the civilization which they represent. It +is due to the Christian missionaries, and (without +any disparagement to the excellence of the Roman +Catholic priests), we may say especially to the American +missionaries, more than to any enterprise of +commerce or shrewdness of diplomacy that Siam is +so far advanced in its intercourse with other nations. +When Sir John Bowring came in 1855 to negotiate +his treaty, he found that, instead of having to deal +with an ignorant, narrow, and savage government, the +two kings and some of the noblemen were educated +gentlemen, well fitted to discuss with him, with intelligent +skill and fairness, the important matters<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">[Pg 274]</a></span> +which he had in hand. Sir John did his work for +the most part ably and well. But the fruit was ripe +before he plucked it. And it was by the patient and +persistent labors of the missionaries for twenty years +that the results which he achieved were made not +only possible but easy.</p> + +<p>Hitherto the Buddhist religion, which prevails in +Siam in a form probably more pure and simple than +elsewhere, has firmly withstood the endeavors of the +Christian missionaries to supplant it. The converts +are chiefly from among the Chinese, who, for centuries +past, and in great numbers, have made their homes +in this fertile country, monopolizing much of its industry, +and sometimes, with characteristic thriftiness, +accumulating much wealth. They have intermarried +with the Siamese, and have become a permanent element +in the population, numbering, in the coast region, +almost as many as the native Siamese, or <i>Thai</i>. For +some reason they seem to be more susceptible to the +influence of the Christian teachers, and many of them +have given evidence of a sincere and intelligent attachment +to the Christian faith. The native Siamese, +however, though acknowledging the superiority +of Christian science, and expressing much personal +esteem and attachment for the missionaries, give +somewhat scornful heed, or no heed at all, to the religious +truths which they inculcate. The late second +king was suspected of cherishing secretly a greater +belief in Christianity than he was willing to avow. +But after his death, his brother, the first king, very +emphatically and somewhat angrily denied that there +was any ground for such suspicions concerning him.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">[Pg 275]</a></span> +For himself, though willing to be regarded as the +founder of a new and more liberal school of Buddhism, +he was the steady "defender of the faith" in +which he was nurtured, and in the priesthood of which +so many years of his life were passed. He seldom did +anything which looked like persecution of the missionaries, +but contented himself with occasionally snubbing +them in a patronizing or more or less contemptuous +manner. This attitude of contemptuous indifference +is also that which is commonly assumed by +the Buddhist priests. "Do you think," said one of +them on some occasion to the missionaries, "do you +think you will beat down our great mountains with +your small tools?" And on another occasion the +king is reported to have said that there was about as +much probability that the Buddhists would convert +the Christians, as that the Christians would convert +the Buddhists.</p> + +<p>But there can be little doubt with those who take +a truly philosophical view of the future of Siam, and +still less with those who take a religious view of it, +that this advancement in civilization must open the +way for religious enlightenment as well. Thus far +there has come only the knowledge which "puffeth +up." And how much it puffeth up is evident from +the pedantic documents which used to issue from +the facile pen of his majesty the late first king. A +little more slowly, but none the less surely, there +must come as well that Christian charity which +"buildeth up." Even if the work of the missionaries +should cease to-day, the results accomplished +would be of immense and permanent value. They<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_329" id="Page_329">[Pg 276]</a></span> +have introduced Christian science; they have made +a beginning of Christian literature, by the translation +of the Scriptures; they have awakened an +insatiable appetite for Christian civilization; and +the end is not yet.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus22" id="illus22"></a><img src="images/illus022.jpg" width="320" height="250" alt="HALL OF AUDIENCE, PALACE OF BANGKOK." title="" /> +<span class="caption">HALL OF AUDIENCE, PALACE OF BANGKOK.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">[Pg 277]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIX" id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a>CHAPTER XIX.</h2> + +<h3>BANGKOK AND THE NEW SIAM</h3> + + +<p>"I do not believe," says the Marquis de Beauvoir +(in his "Voyage Round the World," vol. ii.), +"that there is a sight in the world more magnificent or +more striking than the first view of Bangkok. This +Asiatic Venice displays all her wonders over an extent +of eight miles. The river is broad and grand; +in it more than sixty vessels lie at anchor. The +shores are formed by thousands of floating houses, +whose curiously formed roofs make an even line, +while the inhabitants, in brilliant-colored dresses, appear +on the surface of the water. On the dry land +which commands this first amphibious town, the +royal city extends its battlemented walls and white +towers. Hundreds of pagodas rear their gilded +spires to the sky, their innumerable domes inlaid +with porcelain and glittering crystals, and the embrasures +polished and carved in open-work. The +horizon was bounded to right and left by sparkling +roofs, raised some six or seven stories, enormous +steeples of stone-work, whose brilliant coating dazzled +the eyes, and bold spires from one hundred and +fifty to two hundred feet in height, indicating the +palace of the King, which reflected all the rays of +the sun like a gigantic prism. It seemed as though<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">[Pg 278]</a></span> +we had before us a panorama of porcelain cathedrals.</p> + +<p>"The first general view of the Oriental Venice +surpassed all that we could have hoped for in our +travellers' dreams. We longed to get into gondolas +and go through the lively canals which are the streets +of the floating town, and where the bustle, animation, +and noise bewildered us.... At length, jumping +into a boat, we directed our rowers toward the tower +of the Catholic mission by signs. We were nearly an +hour crossing over, as we had to struggle against the +rising tide. Thus we were able to study the details +of the floating town while we went through its streets, +or rather canals, between the crowded houses, each one +of which formed a small island. We met and passed +thousands of light boats, which are the cabs and omnibuses +of Bangkok. The waving paddle makes +them glide like nut-shells from one shop to another. +Some were not much more than three feet long, with +one Siamese squeezed in between piles of rice, bananas, +or fish; others hold fifteen people, and are so +crowded that one can hardly see the edge of the boat, +which is a hollow palm-tree....</p> + +<p>"As to the children, who are scattered about in +profusion, their dress consists of a daub of yellow +paint; but they are most fascinating little things. I +was charmed with them from the very first moment, +but it grieves me to think that some day they will +become as ugly as their fathers and mothers—and +that is saying much! Their little hair-tufts, twisted +round with a great gold pin, are surrounded by pretty +wreaths of white flowers. They are merry and full<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">[Pg 279]</a></span> +of tricks, and very pretty to see in their childish +nakedness; yet they are more dressed than the +grown-up young ladies who were bathing. Besides a +heap of bracelets and necklaces of gold or copper +gilt, with which they are covered like idols, they +wear a small vine-leaf, cut in the shape of a heart, +and hung round the waist by a slight thread. This +hanging leaf, which is about two inches long and one +and a half broad, marks their caste. For the rich it +is gold, for the middle classes silver, for the poor red +copper.</p> + +<p>"The grandest and most characteristic pagoda is +on the right bank, surrounded by a fine and verdant +wood. It rises amidst a cluster of small towers +which command a central pyramid three hundred +feet high. This is at the base in the form of the +lower part of a cone, with one hundred and fifty +steps; then it becomes a six-sided tower with dormer +windows supported by three white elephants' trunks; +the graceful spire then rises from a nest of turrets, +and shoots upward like a single column rounded off +into a cupola at the summit; from thence a bronze +gilt arrow extends twenty crooked arms that pierce +the clouds. When lighted up by the rays of the sun +it all becomes one mass of brilliancy; the enamelled +colors of flaming earthenware, the coating of thousands +of polished roses standing out in the alabaster, +give to this pagoda, with its pure and brilliant architecture +unknown under any other sky, the magical +effect of a dream with the colossal signs of reality.</p> + +<p>"As we approached it, gliding slowly along in a +gondola against the impetuous current of the river, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">[Pg 280]</a></span> +promontory looked like an entire town, a sacred town +of irregular towers, crowded kiosques, painted summer-houses, +colonnades and statues of pink marble +and red porphyry. But on landing we had to pass the +ditches and shallows which surround the sacred ramparts, +where, walking with measured steps, was a whole +population of men, with heads and eyebrows shaved, +and whose dress was a long saffron-colored Roman +toga. These were the 'talapoins,' or Buddhist +priests. In one hand they hold an iron saucepan, and +in the other the 'talapat,' a great fan of palm-leaves, +the distinguishing sign of their rank. The lanes +they live in are horribly dirty, and their houses are +huts built of dirty planks and bricks, which are falling +to pieces. One could imagine them to be the +foul drains of the porcelain palaces which touch them, +luckily hidden by bowers of luxuriant trees. More +than seven hundred talapoins or 'phras' looked at +us as we passed, with an indifference that bordered on +contempt. And when we saw the sleepy and besotted +priests of Buddha, who looked like lazy beggars, +and the twelve or fifteen hundred ragged urchins who +surrounded them in the capacity of choristers, and +who grow up in the slums together with groups of +geese, pigs, chickens, and stray dogs, it seemed a +menagerie of mud, dirt, and vermin belonging to +the monastery; and we could not help noticing the +remarkable contrast which exists between the fairy-like +appearance of the temple as seen from the town, and +the horrible condition of the hundreds of priests who +serve it.</p> + +<p>"We only had to go up a few steps to pass from<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">[Pg 281]</a></span> +the dirty huts to marble terraces. We scaled the +great pyramid as high as we could go; no such easy +matter beneath a scorching sun which took away our +strength, and blinded by the dazzling whiteness of +the stone-work. But a panorama of the whole town +was now laid before us, with the windings of the +river, the royal palaces, the eleven pagodas in the +first enclosure, the two and twenty in the second, and +some four hundred porcelain towers and spires, looking +as though planted in a mound of verdure formed +by the masses of tropical vegetation. In the symmetrical +colonnades which we visited there are hundreds +of altars, decorated with millions of statuettes of +Buddha, in gold, silver, copper, or porphyry. On +the left side is a very large temple with a five-storied +roof in blue, green, and yellow tiles, and dazzling +walls. A double door of gigantic size, all lacker-work +inlaid with mother-o'-pearl, opened to us, and +we were in the presence of a Buddha of colored +stone-work. He was seated on a stool, nearly fifty +feet high, his legs crossed, a pointed crown upon his +head, great white eyes, and his height was nearly +forty feet. This deified mass, altogether attaining to +the height of ninety feet, is the only thing that remains +unmoved at the sound of more than fifty gongs +and tom-toms, which the bonzes beat with all their +strength. Incense burns in bronze cups, and a ray of +light penetrating the window strikes upon five rows +of gilded statuettes which, in a body of two or three +hundred, crouch at the feet of the great god, and +baskets of splendid fruit are offered to them: you +can imagine who eats it. Suits of armor are fixed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">[Pg 282]</a></span> +against the walls, and at certain distances the seven-storied +umbrella hangs like a banner. As for the +bas-reliefs, their description would take a whole volume; +they represent all the tortures of the Buddhist +hell. I shuddered as I looked on these wretched creatures, +some fainting away, thrusting out their tongues, +which serpents devoured, or picking up an eye torn +out by the claw of an eagle, twisting round like tee-totums, +or eagerly devouring human brains in the +split skull of their neighbor. On the other side of +these walls there are colored frescoes. The illustrations +extend into a whole world of detail of the +Buddhist religion, which varies in every part of Asia +and is so impossible to separate from tradition, and +so contradictory in its laws."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus23" id="illus23"></a><img src="images/illus023.jpg" width="320" height="226" alt="PORTICO OF THE AUDIENCE HALL AT BANGKOK." title="" /> +<span class="caption">PORTICO OF THE AUDIENCE HALL AT BANGKOK.</span> +</div> + +<p>Each king in turn seems to wish to rebuild the +royal residence, and here is a brief description, from +Mr. Bock, of that which King Chulalonkorn has +erected for himself: "Adjoining the old building is +the new palace, called the Chakr Kri Maha Prasat, +the erection of which has long been a favorite scheme +of his majesty, who in 1880 took formal possession +of the building. The style is a mixture of different +schools of European architecture, the picturesque and +characteristic Siamese roof, however, being retained. +The internal fittings of this palace are on a most +elaborate scale, the most costly furniture having been +imported from London at an expense of no less than +£80,000. One of the features of the palace is a large +and well-stocked library, in which the king takes +great interest—all the leading European and American +periodicals being regularly taken in.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">[Pg 283]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Here the king transacts all state business, assisted +by his brother and private secretary, Prince Devawongsa—usually +called Prince Devan. These two +are probably the hardest-worked men in the country, +nothing being too great or too trivial to escape the +king's notice. A friend of mine, who has had many +opportunities of observing the king's actions, writes to +me: 'Every officer of any importance is compelled to +report in person at the palace, and the entire affairs +of the kingdom pass in detail before his majesty +daily. Although the king is obliged through policy +to overlook, or pretend not to see, very many abuses +in the administration of his government, yet they do +not escape his eye, and in some future time will come +up for judgment.'</p> + +<p>"Inside the palace gates were a number of soldiers +in complete European uniform, <i>minus</i> the boots, +which only officers are allowed to wear. At the +head of the guard, inside the palace gates, is the +king's aunt, who is always 'on duty,' and never +allows anyone to pass without a proper permit. +Passing through a long succession of courts and +courtyards, past a series of two-storied and white-washed +buildings—the library, museum, barracks, +mint, etc., all of which are conveniently placed within +the palace grounds—we were led to an open pavilion, +furnished with chairs and tables of European +manufacture, in which were two court officers, neatly +dressed in the very becoming court suit—snow-white +jacket with gold buttons, a 'pa-nung,' or scarf, so +folded round the body as to resemble knickerbockers, +with white stockings and buckled shoes....<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">[Pg 284]</a></span></p> + +<p>"The ninth child of his father and predecessor on +the throne, King Chulalonkorn has profited by the +liberal education which that father was careful to +give him, and, with a mind fully impressed by the +advantages afforded by large and varied stores of +knowledge, he has striven to give practical effect to +the Western ideas thus early instilled in him. Born +on September 22, 1853, he was only fifteen years of +age when he came to the throne, and during his +minority his Highness the Somdeth Chow Phya +Boromaha Sri Suriwongse—an able and upright +statesman, the head of the most powerful and noble +family in the country, which practically rules the +greater portion of Western Siam—acted as regent.... +Although the king shows great favor to +Europeans, he does not display any undue predilection +for them, and only avails himself of their assistance +so far as their services are indispensable, and +as a means of leavening the mass of native officialdom. +The example of the sovereign has not been +without its effect on the minds of his native advisers, +and the princes and officials by whom he is surrounded +are rapidly developing enlightened ideas. This +is the more important since many of the highest +offices are hereditary, and there is consequently not +the same scope for the choice by the king of men +after his own heart which he would otherwise have. +As one instance out of many, I may mention the case +of his Highness Chow Sai, the king's body-physician, +one of the last offices that one would suppose to be +hereditary! Chow Sai is one of those princes who +are favorably disposed toward Europeans; he is well<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">[Pg 285]</a></span> +read, and some years ago sent his eldest son to be +thoroughly educated for the medical profession in +Scotland. Chow Sai's father, by the way, was a +great believer in European medicines, especially Holloway's +pills, of which he ordered the enormous quantity +of ten piculs, or over 1,330 pounds; a large stock +still remain, with their qualities, no doubt, unimpaired."</p> + +<p>Before leaving the palace we may pause a moment +to hear a quaint tale of Oriental cunning by means +of which a former king succeeded in obtaining the +jar of sacred oil still preserved here with religious +care. The story, as told in Cameron's book,<a name="FNanchor_A_11" id="FNanchor_A_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_11" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> reminds +one of the artful dodges employed by zealous +monks of the Middle Ages to secure saints' relics with +their profitable blessings. "When the English took +possession of Ceylon," relates the author, "Tickery +Bundah and two or three brothers—children of the +first minister of the King of the Kandians—were +taken and educated in English by the governor. +Tickery afterward became manager of coffee plantations, +and was so on the arrival of the Siamese mission +of priests in 1845 in search of Buddha's tooth. +It seems he met the mission returning disconsolate, +having spent some £5,000 in presents and bribes in +a vain endeavor to obtain a sight of the relic. Tickery +learned their story, and at once ordered them to +unload their carts and wait for three days longer, and +in due time he promised to obtain for them the +desired view of the holy tooth. He had a check on +the bank for £200 in his hands at the time, and this<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">[Pg 286]</a></span> +he offered to leave with the priests as a guarantee +that he would fulfil his promise; he does not say +whether the check was his own or his master's, or +whether it was handed over or not. Perhaps it was +the check for the misappropriation of which he afterward +found his way to the convict lines of Malacca. +The Siamese priests accepted his undertaking and +unloaded the baggage, agreeing to wait for three +days. Tickery immediately placed himself in communication +with the governor, and represented, as he +says, forcibly the impositions that must have been +practised upon the King of Siam's holy mission, when +they had expended all their gifts and not yet obtained +the desired view of the tooth.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_11" id="Footnote_A_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_11"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> Our Tropical Possessions in Malayan India.</p></div> + +<p>"The governor, who, Tickery says, was a great +friend of his, appreciated the hardship of the priests, +and agreed that the relic should be shown to them +with as little delay as possible. It happened, however, +that the keys of the mosque where the relic +was preserved were in the keeping of the then resident +councillor, who was away some eight miles +elephant shooting. But the difficulty was not long +allowed to remain in the way. Tickery immediately +suggested that it was very improbable the councillor +would have included these keys in his hunting furniture, +and insisted that they must be in his house. +He therefore asked the governor's leave to call upon +his wife, and, presenting the governor's compliments, +to request a search to be made for the keys. Tickery +was deputed accordingly, and by dint of his characteristic +tact and force of language, carried the keys +triumphantly to the governor.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">[Pg 287]</a></span></p> + +<p>"The Kandy priests were immediately notified +that their presence was desired, as it was intended to +exhibit the great relic, and their guardian offices +would be necessary. Accordingly, on the third day +the mosque or temple was opened; and in the building +were assembled the Siamese priests and worshippers +with Tickery on the one side the Kandy or +guardian priests on the other, and the recorder and +the governor in the centre.</p> + +<p>"After making all due offering to the tooth of the +great deity, the Siamese head priest, who had brought +a golden jar filled with otto of roses, desired to have +a small piece of cotton with some of the otto of roses +rubbed on the tooth and then passed into the jar, +thereby to consecrate the whole of the contents. To +this process the Kandy priests objected, as being +a liberty too great to be extended to any foreigners. +The Siamese, however, persevered in their requests, +and the governor and recorder, not knowing the cause +of the altercation, inquired of Tickery. Tickery, +who had fairly espoused the cause of the Siamese, +though knowing that in their last request they had +exceeded all precedent, resolved quietly to gratify +their wish; so in answer to the governor's interrogatory, +took from the hands of the Siamese priest a +small piece of cotton and the golden jar of oil. +'This is what they want, your honor; they want to +take this small piece of cotton—so; and having +dipped it in this oil—so; they wish to rub it on this +here sacred tooth—so; and having done this to return +it to the jar of oil—so; thereby, your honor, to consecrate +the whole contents.' All the words of Tickery<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_345" id="Page_345">[Pg 288]</a></span> +were accompanied by the corresponding action, and +of course the desired ceremony had been performed +in affording the explanation. The whole thing was +the work of a moment. The governor and recorder +did not know how to interpose in time, though they +were aware that such a proceeding was against all +precedent. The Kandy priests were taken aback, +and the Siamese priests, having obtained the desired +object, took from Tickery's hands the now consecrated +jar, with every demonstration of fervent +gratitude. The Kandy priests were loud in their +indignation; but the governor, patting Tickery on +the back said, 'Tickery, my boy, you have settled +the question for us; it is a pity you were not born in +the precincts of St. James', for you would have made +a splendid political agent!'</p> + +<p>"Tickery received next morning a <i>douceur</i> of a +thousand rupees from the priests, and ever since has +been held in the highest esteem and respect by the +King of Siam, also by the Buddhist priests, by whom +he is considered a holy man. From the King he receives +honorary and substantial tokens of royal favor. +He has <i>carte blanche</i> to draw on the King for any +amount, but he says he has as yet contented himself +with a moderate draft of seven hundred dollars."</p> + +<p>There used to be a story current in Bangkok that +every new king made it his pious care to set up in +one of the royal temples a life-size image of Buddha +of solid gold. Though we need not believe this tale, +it would be hard to exaggerate the impression of +lavishness and distinction produced upon the visitor +to this city, full of temples. Nothing in great China<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">[Pg 289]</a></span> +or artistic Japan can compare with their peculiar +brilliance or their wonderful array of color flashing in +the tropical sunlight. We have no reason to repeat +the enthusiastic descriptions which travellers never +tire of giving, impressed as they are sure to be by an +architecture which, with all its wealth and oddity of +detail, harmonizes perfectly with the rich vegetation in +the midst of which it is placed. Change and decay are, +however, doing their part in reducing the picturesqueness +of this strange city. No Oriental thinks +of perpetuating a public monument by means of constant +attention and repairs, and many of these gay +edifices already lose their fine details by long exposure +to the effects of a climate in which nothing endures +long if left to itself. With the improvements +introduced by the present king and his father are disappearing +also many of those features of daily life in +the capital which once heightened its oriental charm. +A pleasure park has been made, in which, and on +some of the new macadam roads about the city, the +foreigners and richer natives drive in wheeled vehicles. +So long, however, as the roads are covered by +the annual inundations and made unserviceable for +months at a time, the use of carriages must be almost +as restricted here as that of horses in Venice. A +more regrettable innovation is that of dress-coats, +starched linens, and to some extent dresses, in the +fashionable circles of Siam. Taken out of their easy +and becoming costumes, and encased in ill-fitting and +uncomfortable Western clothes, the Siamese nobles +can hardly be said to have improved on the old days. +With the removal of their nakedness the lower<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">[Pg 290]</a></span> +classes, too, are becoming more conscious, while contact +with a higher civilization has introduced vices +among them without always bringing in their train +the Christian virtues of cleanliness and truth.</p> + +<p>The population of Bangkok increases steadily with +its prosperity and influence, and is to-day variously +estimated at from three hundred thousand to half a +million souls, nearly half of whom perhaps are Chinese. +Its main article of export is rice, which goes +not only to every country of Asia, but to Australia +and America. Sugar and spices, as well as all products +of tropical forests, are also largely exported. +The customs returns of 1890 show a considerable improvement +of the Bangkok trade over previous years, +the exports being $19,257,728 against $13,317,696 +for 1889, a difference of over $5,540,000; the imports +of 1890 were $15,786,120, against $9,599,541 in 1889, +a gain of more than six millions.</p> + +<p>Gas and kerosene are both used for illumination, +the former in the palaces of royalty and the nobility, +where the electric light has also been introduced. +Foreign steam engines and machinery are employed +in increasing numbers, while iron bridges span many +of the smaller canals, and steam dredges keep the +river channel clear. Telegraphic communication has +long since been established with the French settlement +of Saigon, in Cochin China, and thus with the outer +world, and since the British occupation of Burmah a +line is promised from Rangoon into Siam. A railway +has been commenced between Bangkok and +Ayuthia, to extend thence to Korat, a total distance +of 170 miles; but the overflow of the Meinam, which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">[Pg 291]</a></span> +renders a considerable embankment or causeway +along the river necessary, is a serious obstacle to its +construction, while the great waterway itself renders +a railroad less necessary in Siam than in other countries. +Another line, from Bangkok to the mouth of +the Pakong River, 36 miles southeast of the city, is +also in contemplation; while a design exists to eventually +connect Zimmé with the sea by a line running +the whole length of the Meinam Valley.</p> + +<p>Thus the beautiful city, in awaking from the dream +of its old, narrow life, must become by degrees like +other busy trade centres of the civilized world, cursed +with its sins as well as blessed with its strength and +excellence. The tastes and education of the present +sovereign have led him to hasten, so far as a single +will could, this progress toward modern methods of +living. He has abolished the ancient custom of +prostration in the presence of a superior, so that now +a subject may approach even his king without abasement. +He has by degrees put an end to slavery as a +legalized institution, throughout the country, and although +many of his poorer subjects are hardly better +off under the system of forced service than as actual +slaves, the change, if only in some sort one of name, +is a change for the better. He strives to make Bangkok +the pulse of the kingdom, through which the +life-blood of its commerce and control must course, +achieving by his polity that highly centred system of +administration, without which no pure despotism can +be either beneficial or successful.</p> + +<p>As an indication of the spirit that is quickening +New Siam we should not forget to mention the ex<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_349" id="Page_349">[Pg 292]</a></span>hibition +held in Bangkok in 1882, to celebrate the +centennial of the present dynasty and of its establishment +as the capital. An object-lesson on such a +grand scale was of course a thing before unheard-of +in Eastern Asia, but its benefits to the people of this +region were both wide-spread and real, and are still +to some extent active in the form of a museum where +many of the exhibits are permanently preserved for +examination and display. "The exhibition will be +given"—run the words of the royal announcement—"so +that the people may observe the difference between +the methods used to earn a living one hundred +years ago and those now used, and see what progress +has been made, and note the plants and fruits useful for +trade and the improved means of living. We believe +that this exhibition will be beneficial to the country."</p> + +<p>Miss Mary Hartwell, one of the American missionaries +in Bangkok, in describing the exposition +says: "Nothing there was more significant than its +school exhibit. The Royal College was solicited to +make an exhibit representing the work done in the +school. This consisted chiefly of specimens of writing +in Siamese and English, translations and solutions +of problems in arithmetic, the school furniture, +the text-books in use, and the various helps employed +in teaching, such as the microscope, magnets, electric +batteries, etc. The Siamese mind is peculiarly +adapted to picking up information by looking at +things and asking questions, and it is believed that +this exhibit will not only enhance the reputation of +the college, but give the Siamese some new ideas on +the subject of education.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 320px;"> +<a name="illus24" id="illus24"></a><img src="images/illus024.jpg" width="320" height="502" alt="THE PALACE OF THE KING OF SIAM, BANGKOK." title="" /> +<span class="caption">THE PALACE OF THE KING OF SIAM, BANGKOK.</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_351" id="Page_351">[Pg 293]</a></span></p> + +<p>"Miss Olmstead and I, together with our assistant, +Ma Tuen, have been training little fingers in fancy-work, +or rather overseeing the finishing up of things, +to go to the exhibition. April 25th we placed our +mats, tidies, afghans, rugs, cushions, needle-books, +edgings, work-bags, and lambrequins in the cases allotted +to our school in the Queen's Room, and on the +26th we were again at our posts to receive his Majesty +the King, and give him our salutations upon his first +entrance at the grand opening. He was dressed in a +perfectly-fitting suit of navy-blue broadcloth, without +any gaudy trappings, and never did he wear a more +becoming suit. His face was radiant with joy, and +his quick, elastic step soon brought him to us. He +uttered an exclamation of pleasure at seeing us there, +shook our hands most cordially, took a hasty survey +of our exhibits, and then cried out with boyish enthusiasm, +'These things are beautiful, mem; did +you make them?' 'Oh, no,' I responded, 'we +taught the children, and they made them.' 'Have +you many scholars?' was the next question. 'About +thirty-one,' I answered. Turning again to the cases +he exclaimed, emphatically, 'They are beautiful +things, and I am coming back to look at them carefully—am +in haste now.' And off he went to the +other departments. Since then we see by the paper +published in Bangkok, that his Majesty has paid the +girls' school of Bangkok the high compliment of declaring +himself the purchaser of the collection, and +has attached his name to the cases."</p> + +<p>"The king of this country," says a discriminating +writer in the <i>Saturday Review</i>, "is no doubt one of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">[Pg 294]</a></span> +the monarchs whom it is the fashion to call 'enlightened.' +But he understands the word in a very different +sense from that which is often applied to it in +London. He does not interpret it to mean a sovereign +who throws about valuable lands and privileges +to be scrambled for by all the needy adventurers and +greedy speculators who are on the watch for such +pickings. No; King Chulalonkorn and his ministers, +many of whom are highly accomplished men, +are sincerely anxious for the speedy development of +the great resources over which they have command. +They have shown, by the most practical proofs, that +they have this desire and are able to carry it out. +An extensive network of telegraphs has rapidly been +established throughout their wide territory. Schools, +hospitals, and other public buildings have been +erected and are increasing every day. In 1888 a +tramway company, mainly supported by Siamese +capital, began running cars in the metropolis. A +river flotilla company, wholly Siamese, carries the +passenger traffic of the fine stream on which Bangkok +is built; and in 1889 important gold-mining operations +were begun by a company formed in London, +in which the great majority of subscribers are Siamese +nobles and other inhabitants of that country. +Lastly, a well-known Englishman, formerly Governor +of the Straits Settlements, obtained some years ago +a contract for surveying a trunk line of railway in +Siam, for which he was paid some £50,000 by the +Siamese government.</p> + +<p>"With these evidences staring us in the face, it +would be very absurd to speak of the country or its<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">[Pg 295]</a></span> +ruler as hanging back in the path of progress. One +must, moreover, remember that, besides these signs +of advancement, a free field has been and is opened +to the wide employment of foreign capital in ordinary +matters of trade. Rice-mills, saw-mills, and +docks are doing a very large business, with very +large profits to their owners, who consist of English, +French, German, and Chinese capitalists.... A +policy of reaction or inaction is the very reverse of +that which Siam now professes; and the ruling powers +in that country are as anxious as any foreigner to improve +it in a wise, liberal, and even generous spirit. +We have thus, on the one hand, a king and ministers +sincerely desirous of promoting European enterprise, +and, on the other hand, a European public hardly +less ready to embark capital therein."</p> + +<p>Unfortunately for Siam, there lies in the way of +her advancement the same stumbling-block of extra-territoriality +which has impeded the honest aspirations +of other Asiatic states. The term implies those +civil and judicial rights enjoyed by foreigners living +in the East, who, under treaties for the most part extorted +when the conditions were entirely different, exercise +the privilege of governing and judging themselves +independently of native officers and tribunals. +In such eager and enlightened countries as Japan and +Siam, this limitation to the autonomy of the sovereign +is peculiarly humiliating as well as intensely unsuitable +to existing conditions. The simplest measures +of police ordinance and local government, even +if it be a new liquor traffic law, or an opium farm +regulation, cannot be carried into effect without the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">[Pg 296]</a></span> +separate consent of every European power, whether +great or small, which has a consul in the place. Add +to this the too common contingency of unjust or inefficient +consuls, wholly unqualified for their offices, and +their frequent inability to properly control the adventurers +or aliens nominally residing under their flag, +and the drawbacks to further improvement in Siam, +as in other parts of Asia, may be dimly understood. +With the revision of the antiquated treaties now in +force commercial relations between Siam and the +countries of Christendom would soon be established +on a fair footing, to the mutual advantage of all parties +interested.</p> + +<h1>THE END.</h1> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p>[Transcriber's Notes: Obvious typographical errors have been corrected, +for instance, decribing - describing panaroma - panorama, leve - level, +nothen - northen, Kingdon - Kingdom, nothwithstanding - notwithstanding, +Christain - Christian, and dinder - dinner. Hyphenation of Lopha-buri +standardized.]</p> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Siam, by George B. Bacon + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK SIAM *** + +***** This file should be named 38078-h.htm or 38078-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/8/0/7/38078/ + +Produced by Hunter Monroe, Juliet Sutherland and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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