diff options
Diffstat (limited to '38044-h')
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/38044-h.htm | 23869 | ||||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/cover.jpg | bin | 0 -> 73433 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus001.jpg | bin | 0 -> 101217 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus002.png | bin | 0 -> 31064 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus006.png | bin | 0 -> 11552 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus007a.png | bin | 0 -> 37977 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus007b.png | bin | 0 -> 31795 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus008.png | bin | 0 -> 24161 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus009.png | bin | 0 -> 28069 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus010a.png | bin | 0 -> 25001 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus010b.png | bin | 0 -> 35176 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus024.jpg | bin | 0 -> 95364 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus025.png | bin | 0 -> 31602 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus028.png | bin | 0 -> 21635 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus029.png | bin | 0 -> 35358 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus030.png | bin | 0 -> 73911 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus032.png | bin | 0 -> 40731 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus033.png | bin | 0 -> 86080 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus035.jpg | bin | 0 -> 90728 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus036.jpg | bin | 0 -> 102052 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus042.jpg | bin | 0 -> 91268 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus044.png | bin | 0 -> 96848 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus049.png | bin | 0 -> 3440 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus052.png | bin | 0 -> 32872 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus054.png | bin | 0 -> 7435 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus061.png | bin | 0 -> 97002 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus063.png | bin | 0 -> 53909 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus068a.png | bin | 0 -> 8000 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus068b.png | bin | 0 -> 16485 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus072.jpg | bin | 0 -> 92056 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus075.png | bin | 0 -> 61332 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus078.png | bin | 0 -> 70657 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus080.jpg | bin | 0 -> 100137 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus089a.png | bin | 0 -> 7354 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus089b.png | bin | 0 -> 51512 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus099.png | bin | 0 -> 27273 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus100.png | bin | 0 -> 13622 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus104.jpg | bin | 0 -> 100593 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus108.jpg | bin | 0 -> 96828 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus110.png | bin | 0 -> 81610 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus116.png | bin | 0 -> 94442 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus118.png | bin | 0 -> 37009 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus121.png | bin | 0 -> 34963 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus125.png | bin | 0 -> 21468 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus129.jpg | bin | 0 -> 98088 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus130.jpg | bin | 0 -> 98601 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus135.png | bin | 0 -> 92556 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus141.jpg | bin | 0 -> 97972 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus143.png | bin | 0 -> 31315 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus144.png | bin | 0 -> 72620 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus156.jpg | bin | 0 -> 91079 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus158.png | bin | 0 -> 47609 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus160.png | bin | 0 -> 26140 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus162.png | bin | 0 -> 60024 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus165.png | bin | 0 -> 3690 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus167.png | bin | 0 -> 96028 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus175.png | bin | 0 -> 40713 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus177.png | bin | 0 -> 76421 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus179.png | bin | 0 -> 2297 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus180.png | bin | 0 -> 80658 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus183.jpg | bin | 0 -> 102515 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus192.jpg | bin | 0 -> 100707 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus193.png | bin | 0 -> 17439 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus196.png | bin | 0 -> 57870 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus201.jpg | bin | 0 -> 89779 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus206.png | bin | 0 -> 80776 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus221a.png | bin | 0 -> 15186 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus221b.png | bin | 0 -> 12947 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus221c.png | bin | 0 -> 13572 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus221d.png | bin | 0 -> 12510 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus221e.png | bin | 0 -> 10902 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus222.png | bin | 0 -> 69271 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus235.png | bin | 0 -> 94637 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus237.jpg | bin | 0 -> 98310 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus240.jpg | bin | 0 -> 100916 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus247.png | bin | 0 -> 32394 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus249.png | bin | 0 -> 85700 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus250.png | bin | 0 -> 18555 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus254.png | bin | 0 -> 26787 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus256.jpg | bin | 0 -> 99078 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus261.png | bin | 0 -> 47750 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus267.jpg | bin | 0 -> 117114 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus270.png | bin | 0 -> 23127 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus272a.png | bin | 0 -> 23281 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus272b.png | bin | 0 -> 26747 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus277.png | bin | 0 -> 42485 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus280.jpg | bin | 0 -> 100762 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus284.jpg | bin | 0 -> 98051 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus286.png | bin | 0 -> 30506 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus287a.png | bin | 0 -> 18396 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus287b.png | bin | 0 -> 5575 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus288.png | bin | 0 -> 18572 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus291.png | bin | 0 -> 93035 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus292.png | bin | 0 -> 66560 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus298.png | bin | 0 -> 53487 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus300.png | bin | 0 -> 25814 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus306.png | bin | 0 -> 19582 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus307.png | bin | 0 -> 17443 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus322.png | bin | 0 -> 112407 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus324.png | bin | 0 -> 84537 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus327.png | bin | 0 -> 84151 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus330.png | bin | 0 -> 32836 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus332.jpg | bin | 0 -> 91593 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus334.png | bin | 0 -> 2442 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus335.png | bin | 0 -> 30751 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus337.png | bin | 0 -> 73422 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus338.png | bin | 0 -> 46903 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus339.png | bin | 0 -> 104192 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus343.png | bin | 0 -> 81421 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus355.jpg | bin | 0 -> 99387 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus357.jpg | bin | 0 -> 97413 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus358.jpg | bin | 0 -> 93123 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus372.png | bin | 0 -> 95619 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/illus374.png | bin | 0 -> 82422 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/map1.jpg | bin | 0 -> 201800 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/map1thumb.jpg | bin | 0 -> 34955 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/map2.jpg | bin | 0 -> 726161 bytes | |||
| -rw-r--r-- | 38044-h/images/map2thumb.jpg | bin | 0 -> 33305 bytes |
118 files changed, 23869 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/38044-h/38044-h.htm b/38044-h/38044-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..dcd03c2 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/38044-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,23869 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" +"http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=utf-8" /> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Ascent of the Matterhorn, by Edward Whymper</title> +<link rel="coverpage" href="images/cover.jpg" /> +<style type="text/css"> + +/*<![CDATA[*/ + /* + The Gnutenberg Press - default CSS2 stylesheet + + Any generated element will have a class "tei" and a class "tei-elem" + where elem is the element name in TEI. + The order of statements is important !!! + */ + + .tei { margin: 0; padding: 0; + font-size: 100%; font-weight: normal; font-style: normal } + + .block { display: block; } + .inline { display: inline; } + .floatleft { float: left; margin: 1em 2em 1em 0; } + .floatright { float: right; margin: 1em 0 1em 2em; } + .shaded { margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + padding: 1em; background-color: #eee; } + .boxed { margin-top: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; + padding: 1em; border: 1px solid black; } + + body.tei { margin: 4ex 10%; text-align: justify } + div.tei { margin: 2em 0em } + p.tei { margin: 0em 0em 1em 0em; text-indent: 0em; } + blockquote.tei { margin: 2em 4em } + + div.tei-lg { margin: 1em 0em; } + div.tei-l { margin: 0em; text-align: left; } + div.tei-tb { text-align: center; } + div.tei-epigraph { margin: 0em 0em 1em 10em; } + div.tei-dateline { margin: 1ex 0em; text-align: right } + div.tei-salute { margin: 1ex 0em; } + div.tei-signed { margin: 1ex 0em; text-align: right } + div.tei-byline { margin: 1ex 0em; } + + /* calculate from size of body = 80% */ + div.tei-marginnote { margin: 0em 0em 0em -12%; width: 11%; float: left; } + + div.tei-sp { margin: 1em 0em 1em 2em } + div.tei-speaker { margin: 0em 0em 1em -2em; + font-weight: bold; text-indent: 0em } + div.tei-stage { margin: 1em 0em; font-weight: normal; font-style: italic } + span.tei-stage { font-weight: normal; font-style: italic } + + div.tei-eg { padding: 1em; + color: black; background-color: #eee } + + hr.doublepage { margin: 4em 0em; height: 5px; } + hr.page { margin: 4em 0em; height: 2px; } + + ul.tei-index { list-style-type: none } + + dl.tei { margin: 1em 0em } + + dt.tei-notelabel { font-weight: normal; text-align: right; + float: left; width: 3em } + dd.tei-notetext { margin: 0em 0em 1ex 4em } + + span.tei-pb { position: absolute; left: 1%; width: 8%; + font-style: normal; } + + span.code { font-family: monospace; font-size: 110%; } + + ul.tei-castlist { margin: 0em; list-style-type: none } + li.tei-castitem { margin: 0em; } + table.tei-castgroup { margin: 0em; } + ul.tei-castgroup { margin: 0em; list-style-type: none; + padding-right: 2em; border-right: solid black 2px; } + *.tei-roledesc { font-style: italic } + *.tei-set { font-style: italic } + + table.rules { border-collapse: collapse; } + table.rules caption, + table.rules th, + table.rules td { border: 1px solid black; } + + table.tei { border-collapse: collapse; } + table.tei-list { width: 100% } + + th.tei-head-table { padding: 0.5ex 1em } + + th.tei-cell { padding: 0em 1em } + td.tei-cell { padding: 0em 1em } + + td.tei-item { padding: 0; font-weight: normal; + vertical-align: top; text-align: left; } + th.tei-label, + td.tei-label { width: 3em; padding: 0; font-weight: normal; + vertical-align: top; text-align: right; } + + th.tei-label-gloss, + td.tei-label-gloss { text-align: left } + + td.tei-item-gloss, + th.tei-headItem-gloss { padding-left: 4em; } + + img.tei-formula { vertical-align: middle; } + + /*]]>*/ + </style> +</head> + +<body class="tei"> + <div lang="en" class="tei tei-text" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em" xml:lang="en"> + <div class="tei tei-front" style= + "margin-bottom: 6.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <div id="pgheader" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 3.00em; margin-top: 3.00em"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 2.00em">The Project + Gutenberg EBook of The Ascent of the Matterhorn by Edward + Whymper</p> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 3.00em; margin-top: 3.00em"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This eBook is + for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no + restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use + it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License <a href= + "#pglicense" class="tei tei-ref">included with this eBook</a> or + online at <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/license" class= + "tei tei-xref">http://www.gutenberg.org/license</a></p> + </div> + <pre class="pre tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 3.00em; margin-top: 3.00em"> +Title: The Ascent of the Matterhorn + +Author: Edward Whymper + +Release Date: November 17, 2011 [Ebook #38044] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN*** +</pre> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"></div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/cover.jpg" alt="Illustration: Cover" /></div> + + <div class="tei tei-pb"></div><a name="Pgii" id="Pgii" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><a name="plate01" id="plate01" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus001.jpg" alt= + "They saw masses of rocks, boulders and stones, dart round the corner." + title= + "“THEY SAW MASSES OF ROCKS, BOULDERS, AND STONES, DART ROUND THE CORNER.”" /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: center">“THEY SAW + MASSES OF ROCKS, BOULDERS, AND STONES, DART ROUND THE + CORNER.”</span> + </div> + </div> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-titlePage" style="text-align: center"> + <div class="tei tei-pb" style="text-align: center"></div><a name= + "Pgiii" id="Pgiii" class="tei tei-anchor" style= + "text-align: center"></a> <span class="tei tei-docTitle" style= + "text-align: center"><span class="tei tei-titlePart" style= + "text-align: center"><span class="tei tei-hi" style= + "text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 144%">THE + ASCENT</span></span><br /> + <br /> + OF<br /> + <br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 173%">THE MATTERHORN</span></span></span></span><br /> + <br /> + + <div class="tei tei-byline" style="text-align: center"> + BY<br /> + <br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">EDWARD WHYMPER</span></span> + </div><br /> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus002.png" alt="Illustration: Vignette" /></div><br /> + <span class="tei tei-titlePart" style="text-align: center">WITH MAPS + AND ILLUSTRATIONS</span><br /> + <br /> + + <div class="tei tei-epigraph" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 9.00em"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 0.90em"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">Toil and pleasure, in their natures opposite, are + yet linked together in a kind of necessary + connection.—</span><span class="tei tei-hi" style= + "text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Livy</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">.</span></p> + </div><span class="tei tei-docImprint" style= + "text-align: center"><span class="tei tei-pubPlace" style= + "text-align: center">LONDON</span><br /> + <span class="tei tei-publisher" style= + "text-align: center"><span class="tei tei-hi" style= + "text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 120%">JOHN MURRAY, + ALBEMARLE STREET</span></span></span><br /> + <span class="tei tei-date" style= + "text-align: center">1880</span></span><br /> + <br /> + <span class="tei tei-titlePart" style= + "text-align: center"><span class="tei tei-hi" style= + "text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">All rights are + reserved</span></span></span> + + <div class="tei tei-pb" style="text-align: center"></div><a name= + "Pgiv" id="Pgiv" class="tei tei-anchor" style= + "text-align: center"></a> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="pagev">[pg v]</span><a name="Pgv" id= + "Pgv" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc1" id= + "toc1"></a><a name="pdf2" id="pdf2"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">PREFACE.</span></h1> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In the year 1860, + shortly before leaving England for a long continental tour, the late + Mr. William Longman requested me to make for him some sketches of the + great Alpine peaks. At this time I had only a literary acquaintance + with mountaineering, and had even not seen—much less set foot upon—a + mountain. Amongst the peaks which were upon my list was Mont Pelvoux, + in Dauphiné. The sketches that were required of it were to celebrate + the triumph of some Englishmen who intended to make its ascent. They + came—they saw—but they did not conquer. By a mere chance I fell in + with a very agreeable Frenchman who accompanied this party, and was + pressed by him to return to the assault. In 1861 we did so, with my + friend Macdonald—and we conquered. This was the origin of my + scrambles amongst the Alps.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The ascent of Mont + Pelvoux (including the disagreeables) was a very delightful scramble. + The mountain air did <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">not</span></span> act as an emetic; the sky did + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">not</span></span> look black, instead of blue; + nor did I feel tempted to throw myself over precipices. I hastened to + enlarge my experience, and went to the Matterhorn. I was urged + towards Mont Pelvoux by those mysterious impulses which cause men to + peer into the unknown. Not only was this mountain reputed to be the + highest in France, and on that account was worthy of attention, but + it was the dominating point of a most picturesque district of the + greatest interest, which, to this day, remains almost unexplored! The + Matterhorn attracted me simply by its grandeur. It was considered to + be the most thoroughly inaccessible of all mountains, even by those + who ought to have known better. Stimulated to make fresh exertions by + one repulse after another, I returned, year <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="pagevi">[pg vi]</span><a name="Pgvi" id="Pgvi" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>after year, as I had opportunity, more and more + determined to find a way up it, or to <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">prove</span></span> it + to be really inaccessible.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The chief part of + this volume is occupied by the history of these attacks on the + Matterhorn, and the other excursions that are described have all some + connection, more or less remote, with that mountain or with Mont + Pelvoux. All are new excursions (that is, excursions made for the + first time), unless the contrary is pointed out. Some have been + passed over very briefly, and entire ascents or descents have been + disposed of in a single line. Generally speaking, the salient points + alone have been dwelt upon, and the rest has been left to the + imagination. This treatment has spared the reader from much useless + repetition.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In endeavouring to + make the book of some use to those who may wish to go + mountain-scrambling, whether in the Alps or elsewhere, prominence has + been given to our mistakes and failures; and to some it may seem that + our practice must have been bad if the principles which are laid down + are sound, or that the principles must be unsound if the practice was + good. The principles which are brought under the notice of the reader + are, however, deduced from long experience, which experience had not + been gained at the time that the blunders were perpetrated; and, if + it had been acquired at an earlier date, there would have been fewer + failures to record.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">My scrambles + amongst the Alps were a sort of apprenticeship in the art of + mountaineering, and they were, for the most part, carried out in the + company of men who were masters of their craft. In any art the + learner, who wishes to do good work, does well to associate himself + with master workmen, and I attribute much of the success which is + recorded in this volume to my having been frequently under the + guidance of the best mountaineers of the time. The hints and + observations which are dispersed throughout the volume are not the + result of personal experience only, they have been frequently derived + from professional mountaineers, who have studied the art from their + youth upwards.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id="pagevii">[pg + vii]</span><a name="Pgvii" id="Pgvii" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Without being + unduly discursive in the narrative, it has not been possible to + include in the text all the observations which are desirable for the + general reader, and a certain amount of elementary knowledge has been + pre-supposed, which perhaps some do not possess; and the opportunity + is now taken of making a few remarks which may serve to elucidate + those which follow.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When a man who is + not a born mountaineer gets upon the side of a mountain, he speedily + finds out that walking is an art; and very soon wishes that he could + be a quadruped or a centipede, or anything except a biped; but, as + there is a difficulty in satisfying these very natural desires, he + ultimately procures an alpenstock and turns himself into a tripod. + This simple implement is invaluable to the mountaineer, and when he + is parted from it involuntarily (and who has not been?) he is + inclined to say, just as one may remark of other friends, + <span class="tei tei-q">“You were only a stick—a poor stick—but you + were a true friend, and I should like to be in your company + again.”</span></p><a name="fig01" id="fig01" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus006.png" alt= + "Illustration: Point of Alpenstock" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Respecting the + size of the alpenstock, let it be remarked that it may be nearly + useless if it be too long or too short. It should always be shorter + than the person who carries it, but it may be any length you like + between three-fifths of your height and your extreme altitude. It + should be made of ash, of the very best quality; and should support + your weight upon its centre when it is suspended at its two ends. + Unless shod with an iron point it can scarcely be termed an + alpenstock, and the nature of the point is of some importance. The + kind I prefer is shown in the <a href="#fig01" class= + "tei tei-ref">annexed illustration</a>. It has a long tang running + into the wood, is supported by a rivetted collar, and its termination + is extremely sharp. With a point of this description steps can be + made in ice almost as readily as with an axe.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A volume might be + written upon the use of the alpenstock. Its principal use is as a + third leg, to extend one’s base line; and when the beginner gets this + well into his head he finds the <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "pageviii">[pg viii]</span><a name="Pgviii" id="Pgviii" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>implement of extraordinary value. In these + latter times the pure and simple alpenstock has gone out of fashion, + and mountaineers now almost universally carry a stick with a point at + one end and an axe-head at the other. A moveable axe-head is still a + desideratum. There is a pick-axe made at Birmingham with a moveable + head which is better than any other kind that I have seen, but the + head is too clumsy to be held in the hand, and various improvements + will have to be effected in it before it will be fit for use in + mountaineering. Still, its principle appears to me to be capable of + adaptation, and on that account I have introduced it + here.</p><a name="fig02" id="fig02" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus007a.png" alt= + "Illustration: Birmingham pick-axe with moveable head" /></div><a name="fig03" + id="fig03" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus007b.png" alt="Illustration: Russian furnace" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">After the + alpenstock, or axe-alpenstock, it is of most importance for the + mountaineer to supply himself with plenty of good rope. Enough has + been said on this subject in different parts of the narrative, as + well as in regard to tents. Few other articles are <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">necessary</span></span>, though many others are + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">desirable</span></span>, to carry about, and + amongst the most important may be reckoned some simple means of + boiling water and cooking. At considerable altitudes above the + tree-line, it is frequently impossible to carry up wood enough for a + camp-fire, and nothing but spirits of wine can be employed. The + well-known and convenient so-called <span class="tei tei-q">“Russian + furnace”</span> is the most compact form of spirit lamp that I know, + and wonders can be effected with one that is only <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="pageix">[pg ix]</span><a name="Pgix" id="Pgix" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>three inches in diameter. In conjunction + with a set of tins like those <a href="#fig04" class= + "tei tei-ref">figured here</a> (which are constructed to be used + either with a wood fire or over a spirit lamp), all the cooking can + be done that the Alpine tourist requires. For prolonged expeditions + of a serious nature a more elaborate equipage is necessary; but upon + such small ones as are made in the Alps it would be unnecessarily + encumbering yourself to take a whole <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">batterie de + cuisine</span></span>.<a id="noteref_1" name="noteref_1" href= + "#note_1"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">1</span></span></a></p><a name="fig04" + id="fig04" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus008.png" alt="Illustration: Cooking tins" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Before passing on + to speak of clothing, a word upon snow-blindness will not be out of + place. Very fine language is sometimes used to express the fact that + persons suffer from their eyes becoming inflamed; and there is one + well-known traveller, at least, who, when referring to + snow-blindness, speaks habitually of the distressing effects which + are produced by <span class="tei tei-q">“the reverberation of the + snow.”</span> Snow-blindness is a malady which touches all + mountain-travellers sooner or later, for it is found impossible in + practice always to protect the eyes with the goggles which are + <a href="#fig05" class="tei tei-ref">shown overleaf</a>. In critical + situations almost every one removes them. The beginner should, + however, note that at great altitudes it is not safe to leave the + eyes unprotected even on rocks, when the sun is shining brightly; and + upon snow or ice it is indispensable to shade them in some manner, + unless you wish to be placed <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">hors de combat</span></span> on the next day. + Should you unfortunately find yourself in this predicament through + the intensity of the light, there is no help but in sulphate of zinc + and patience. Of the former material a half-ounce will be sufficient + for <span class="tei tei-pb" id="pagex">[pg x]</span><a name="Pgx" + id="Pgx" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>a prolonged campaign, as a lotion + compounded with two or three grains to an ounce of water will give + relief; but of patience you can hardly lay in too large a stock, as a + single bad day sometimes throws a man on his back for weeks.<a id= + "noteref_2" name="noteref_2" href="#note_2"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">2</span></span></a></p><a name="fig05" + id="fig05" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus009.png" alt="Illustration: Snow spectacles" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The whole face + suffers under the alternation of heat, cold, and glare, and few + mountain-travellers remain long without having their visages + blistered and cracked in all directions. Now, in respect to this + matter, prevention is better than cure; and, though these + inconveniences cannot be entirely escaped, they may, by taking + trouble, be deferred for a long time. As a travelling cap for + mountain expeditions, there is scarcely anything better than the kind + of helmet used by Arctic travellers, and with the eyes well shaded by + its projecting peak and covered with the ordinary goggles one ought + not, and will not, suffer much from snow-blindness. I have found, + however, that it does not sufficiently shade the face, and that it + shuts out sound too much when the side-flaps are down; and I + consequently adopt a woollen headpiece, which almost entirely covers + or shades the face and extends well downwards on to the shoulders. + One hears sufficiently <span class="tei tei-pb" id="pagexi">[pg + xi]</span><a name="Pgxi" id="Pgxi" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>distinctly through the interstices of the + knitted wool, and they also permit some ventilation—which the Arctic + cap does not. It is a useful rather than an ornamental article of + attire, and strangely affects one’s appearance.</p><a name="fig06" + id="fig06" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus010a.png" alt="Illustration: Arctic cap" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">For the most + severe weather even this is not sufficient, and a mask must be added + to protect the remainder of the face. You then present the appearance + of the <a href="#fig07" class="tei tei-ref">lower woodcut</a>, and + are completely disguised. Your most intimate friends—even your own + mother—will disown you, and you are a fit subject for endless + ridicule.</p><a name="fig07" id="fig07" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus010b.png" alt= + "Illustration: The complete disguise" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The alternations + of heat and cold are rapid and severe in all high mountain ranges, + and it is folly to go about too lightly clad. Woollen gloves ought + always to be in the mountaineer’s pocket, for in a single hour, or + less, he may experience a fall in temperature of sixty to eighty + degrees. But in respect to the nature of the clothing there is little + to be said beyond that it should be composed of flannels and + woollens.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Upon the important + subject of boots much might be written. My friends are generally + surprised to find that I use elastic-side boots whilst + mountaineering, and condemn them under the false impression that they + will not give support to the ankles, and will be pulled off when one + is traversing deep snow. I have invariably used elastic-side boots on + my mountain expeditions in the Alps and elsewhere, and have found + that they give sufficient support to the ankles and never draw off. + My Alpine boots have always been made by Norman—a maker who knows + what the requirements are, and one who will give a good boot if + allowed good time.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is fully as + important to have proper nails in the boots as it <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="pagexii">[pg xii]</span><a name="Pgxii" id="Pgxii" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>is to have good boots. The quantity is + frequently overdone, and when there are too many they are absolutely + dangerous. Ice-nails, which may be considered a variety of crampon, + are an abomination. The nails should be neither too large nor too + numerous, and they should be disposed everywhere irregularly—not + symmetrically. They disappear one by one, from time to time; and the + prudent mountaineer continually examines his boots to see that + sufficient numbers are left.<a id="noteref_3" name="noteref_3" href= + "#note_3"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">3</span></span></a> A + handkerchief tied round the foot, or even a few turns of cord, will + afford a tolerable substitute when nails cannot be procured.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">If the beginner + supplies himself with the articles which have been named, he will be + in possession of all the gear which is <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">necessary</span></span> + for ordinary mountain excursions, and if he uses his plant properly + he will avoid many of the disagreeables which are looked upon by some + as almost unavoidable accompaniments of the sport of mountaineering. + I have not throughout the volume ignored the dangers which are real + and unavoidable, and say distinctly that too great watchfulness + cannot be exercised at great altitudes. But I say now, as I have + frequently said before, that the great majority of accidents which + occur to mountaineers, especially to mountaineering amateurs in the + Alps, are not the result of unavoidable dangers; and that they are + for the most part the product of ignorance and neglect. I consider + that falling rocks are the greatest danger which a mountaineer is + likely to encounter, and in concluding these prefatory remarks I + especially warn the novice against the things which tumble about the + ears of unwary travellers.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="pagexiii">[pg xiii]</span><a name= + "Pgxiii" id="Pgxiii" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc3" id= + "toc3"></a><a name="pdf4" id="pdf4"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">CONTENTS.</span></h1> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">1860</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">CHAPTER I.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">INTRODUCTORY.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">BEACHY HEAD—DEVIL OF NOTRE DAME—VISP THAL—SCRAMBLING + ALONE—THE WEISSHORN—ST. BERNARD—RASCALLY GUIDE—A VILLAGE + CONCERT—STORM ON THE COL DE LAUTARET</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href="#Pg001" class= + "tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">Pages 1-12</a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">1861</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">CHAPTER II.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">THE ASCENT OF MONT + PELVOUX.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">THE VALLEYS OF DAUPHINÉ—THE PEAKS OF + DAUPHINÉ—MISTAKES IN THEIR IDENTIFICATION—EARLY ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND + MONT PELVOUX—INTRODUCTION TO MONSIEUR REYNAUD—GRENOBLE—MEETING WITH + MACDONALD—NATIONAL SENTIMENTS—WE ENGAGE A GUIDE—START FOR + PELVOUX—PASS THE CAVERN OF THE VAUDOIS—MASSACRE OF THE VAUDOIS—FIRST + NIGHT OUT—WE ARE REPULSED—ARRIVAL OF MACDONALD—THIRD NIGHT + OUT—TORRENTS ON FIRE—FALLING ROCKS—ASCENT OF THE PELVOUX—THE + PYRAMID—VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT—WE DISCOVER THE POINTE DES + ECRINS—SURPRISED BY NIGHT—ON FLEAS—EN ROUTE FOR MONTE + VISO—DESERTERS—CAMP ON AN ANT-HILL—ST. VERAN—PRIMITIVE + MANNERS—NATURAL PILLARS—ARRIVE AT BRIANÇON</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href="#Pg013" class= + "tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">13-41</a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">CHAPTER III.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">MY FIRST SCRAMBLE ON THE + MATTERHORN.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">THE WEISSHORN AND THE MATTERHORN—INTRODUCTION TO + JEAN-ANTOINE CARREL—SUPERSTITIONS OF THE NATIVES IN REGARD TO THE + MATTERHORN—RIDGES OF THE MATTERHORN—EARLIEST ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE + MOUNTAIN—ATTEMPT BY THE MESSRS. PARKER—ATTEMPT BY MESSRS. HAWKINS AND + TYNDALL—ARRIVE AT</span> <span class="tei tei-pb" id="pagexiv">[pg + xiv]</span><a name="Pgyiv" id="Pgyiv" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><span style="font-size: 75%">BREIL—UNWILLINGNESS + OF THE GUIDES TO HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE MATTERHORN—THE CARRELS + ENDEAVOUR TO CUT US OUT—THE</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q"><span style="font-size: 75%">“</span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">GREAT STAIRCASE</span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">”</span></span><span style="font-size: 75%">—THE COL + DU LION—WE DECIDE TO CAMP THERE—GREAT EXCITEMENT FROM FALLING + STONES—LIGHT AND SHADE—THE</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q"><span style="font-size: 75%">“</span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">CHIMNEY</span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">”</span></span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">—DEFEATED—A COOL PROCEEDING</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href="#Pg042" class= + "tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">42-57</a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">1862</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">CHAPTER IV.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">RENEWED ATTEMPTS TO + ASCEND THE MATTERHORN.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">MR. KENNEDY’S WINTER ATTEMPT—BENNEN REFUSES TO START + AGAIN—THE THÉODULE PASS—MEYNET, THE HUNCHBACK OF BREIL—ON TENTS FOR + MOUNTAINEERING—MACDONALD AND I START FOR THE MATTERHORN—NARROW ESCAPE + OF KRONIG—VIOLENT WIND TURNS US BACK—ENGAGE CARREL AND PESSION AND + START AGAIN—THE</span> <span class="tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">“</span><span style="font-size: 75%">GREAT + TOWER</span><span style="font-size: 75%">”</span></span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">—PESSION BECOMES ILL AND WE ARE OBLIGED TO + RETURN—BAD WEATHER—SCRAMBLE ALONE ON THE MATTERHORN—PIONEERS OF + VEGETATION—VIEW FROM THE TENT—A SOLITARY BIVOUAC—MONTE VISO SEEN BY + MOONLIGHT AT NINETY-EIGHT MILES’ DISTANCE—ON AIDS TO + CLIMBERS—CLIMBING CLAW—FIND A NEW PLACE FOR THE TENT—I ATTAIN A + GREATER ALTITUDE ALONE THAN HAD BEEN REACHED BEFORE, AND NEARLY COME + TO GRIEF—MY FOURTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN—DEFEATED AGAIN BY + WEATHER—THE CARRELS GO MARMOT-HUNTING, AND WE START FOR A FIFTH + ATTEMPT—DEFEATED BY NATURAL DIFFICULTIES—TYNDALL ARRIVES AND CARRIES + OFF THE CARRELS—A CANNONADE ON THE MATTERHORN—TYNDALL IS + REPULSED—CONFLAGRATION IN DAUPHINÉ</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href="#Pg058" class= + "tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">58-87</a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">1863</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">CHAPTER V.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">THE VAL TOURNANCHE—THE + BREUILJOCH—ZERMATT—FIRST ASCENT OF THE GRAND TOURNALIN.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">THE DOUANE—</span><span class= + "tei tei-q"><span style="font-size: 75%">“</span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">BUT WHAT IS THIS?</span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">”</span></span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">—DIFFICULTIES WITH MY LADDER—EXPLANATION OF + TYNDALL’S REPULSE—ROMAN (?) AQUEDUCT IN THE VAL TOURNANCHE—ASCEND THE + CIMES BLANCHES—WE DECEIVE A GOAT—WE INVENT A NEW PASS TO ZERMATT + (BREUILJOCH)—AQUEOUS AND GLACIER EROSION—GLACIER VERSUS + ROCKS—SEILER’S DISINTERESTEDNESS—THE MATTERHORN CLIFFS—EXTRAORDINARY + ACCIDENT TO A CHAMOIS—COL DE VALPELLINE—THE MASTER OF + PRERAYEN—ATTEMPT TO ASCEND DENT D’ERIN (D’HÉRENS)—THE VA CORNÈRE + PASS—FIRST ASCENT OF THE GRAND TOURNALIN—SPLENDID VIEW FROM THE + SUMMIT—ON PANORAMIC VIEWS—GOUFFRE DES BUSSERAILLES—AN ENTERPRISING + INNKEEPER</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href="#Pg088" class= + "tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">88-113</a></p><span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="pagexv">[pg xv]</span><a name="Pgxv" id="Pgxv" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">CHAPTER VI.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">OUR SIXTH ATTEMPT TO + ASCEND THE MATTERHORN.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">EXTREMES MEET—THUNDER AND LIGHTNING—ECHOES OF + THUNDER—GREAT ROCKFALLS DURING THE NIGHT—DEFEATED BY THE + WEATHER—MYSTERIOUS MISTS</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href="#Pg114" class= + "tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">114-123</a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">1864</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">CHAPTER VII.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">FROM ST. MICHEL TO LA + BÉRARDE BY THE COL DES AIGS. D’ARVE, COL DE MARTIGNARE, AND THE + BRÈCHE DE LA MEIJE.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">RETURN AGAIN TO DAUPHINÉ—MICHEL CROZ—COL DE + VALLOIRES—THE AIGUILLES D’ARVE—WE MAKE A PASS BETWEEN THEM—COL DE + MARTIGNARE—ASCENT OF THE AIG. DE LA SAUSSE—THE MEIJE—FIRST PASSAGE OF + THE BRÈCHE DE LA MEIJE—MELCHIOR ANDEREGG—LA GRAVE—THE BRÈCHE IS + WON—THE VALLON DES ETANÇONS</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href="#Pg124" class= + "tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">124-144</a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">CHAPTER VIII.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE + POINTE DES ECRINS.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">LA BÉRARDE—PIC THE PORTER—BIVOUAC ON THE GLACIER DE + LA BONNE PIERRE—DISSOLVING VIEWS—DRYNESS OF THE AIR—TOPOGRAPHY OF + CENTRAL DAUPHINÉ ALPS—FIRST ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE ECRINS—A MIGHTY + AVALANCHE—OUR ASCENT OF THE FINAL PEAK—ON SPLINTERS FROM SUMMITS—LE + JEU NE VAUT PAS LA CHANDELLE—SHATTERED RIDGE—ALMER’S LEAP—SURPRISED + BY NIGHT—A WARNING</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href="#Pg145" class= + "tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">145-165</a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">CHAPTER IX.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">FROM VAL LOUISE TO LA + BÉRARDE BY THE COL DE PILATTE.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">CHALETS OF ENTRAIGUES—ARRIVAL OF REYNAUD—ON SNOW + COULOIRS—SUMMIT OF THE COL—EXCITING DESCENT—REYNAUD COMES OVER THE + SCHRUND—THE LAST OF DAUPHINÉ</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href="#Pg166" class= + "tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">166-175</a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">CHAPTER X.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE + COL DE TRIOLET, AND FIRST ASCENTS OF MONT DOLENT, AIGUILLE DE + TRÉLATÊTE, AND AIGUILLE D’ARGENTIÈRE.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">MAPS OF MONT BLANC—MR. ADAMS-REILLY—OUR COMPACT—THE + PEAKS OF THE MONT BLANC RANGE—ACROSS THE COL DE TRIOLET—A MINIATURE + ASCENT—REILLY</span> <span class="tei tei-pb" id="pagexvi">[pg + xvi]</span><a name="Pgxvi" id="Pgxvi" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><span style="font-size: 75%">ADVOCATES + PATIENCE—BIVOUAC ON MONT SUC—THE FIRST ASCENT OF AIG. DE + TRÉLATÊTE—THE MORAINE OF THE MIAGE—ON MORAINES IN GENERAL—ERRONEOUS + VIEWS RESPECTING THEM—OUR FIRST ATTEMPT TO ASCEND AIG. D’ARGENTIÈRE—A + CONCEALED CAVERN—SUCCESS AT LAST—MR. REILLY’S MAP</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href="#Pg176" class= + "tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">176-192</a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">CHAPTER XI.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE + MOMING PASS—ZINAL TO ZERMATT.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">SWISS MENDICANTS—NIGHT ON THE ARPITETTA ALP—A + PERILOUS PATH—ICE-AVALANCHE—SUMMIT OF THE MOMING PASS—CROZ + DISTINGUISHES HIMSELF—THE CLUB-ROOM OF ZERMATT</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href="#Pg193" class= + "tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">193-203</a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">1865</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">CHAPTER XII.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE + GRAND CORNIER.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">ON CHOICE OF ROUTES—REGRETS—ZINAL—ASCENT OF THE + GRAND CORNIER—EFFECTS OF SUN AND FROST—GREAT RIDGES SUFFER + MOST—POINTS OF DIFFERENCE BETWEEN ATMOSPHERIC AND GLACIER + EROSION—ABRICOLLA</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href="#Pg204" class= + "tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">204-214</a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">CHAPTER XIII.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">THE ASCENT OF THE DENT + BLANCHE.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">LESLIE STEPHEN—KENNEDY’S ASCENT—ON + BERGSCHRUNDS—UNWELCOME ATTENTIONS—A RACE FOR LIFE—BENIGHTED—A + SURPRISE</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href="#Pg215" class= + "tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">215-222</a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">CHAPTER XIV.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">LOST ON THE COL + D’HÉRENS—SEVENTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN—THE FIRST ASCENT OF + THE GRANDES JORASSES.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A LATE START AND THE RESULT—BEWILDERED—RETURN TO + ABRICOLLA—CROSS COL D’HÉRENS TO ZERMATT—ASCEND THE THÉODULHORN—NEW + IDEAS REGARDING THE MATTERHORN—DECEPTIVENESS OF THE EAST + FACE—STRATIFICATION—DIP OF THE BEDS—TRY ANOTHER + ROUTE—</span><span class="tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">“</span><span style="font-size: 75%">SAUVE QUI + PEUT</span><span style="font-size: 75%">”</span></span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">—BEATEN AGAIN—ASCENT OF THE GRANDES JORASSES—NARROW + ESCAPE FROM AN AVALANCHE</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href="#Pg223" class= + "tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">223-238</a></p><span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="pagexvii">[pg xvii]</span><a name="Pgxvii" id= + "Pgxvii" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">CHAPTER XV.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE + COL DOLENT.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">CONFUSION OF IDEAS—A MIDNIGHT START—SUMMIT OF THE + PASS—EXTRAORDINARY ICE-WALL—MANNER OF ITS DESCENT—ON ICE-AXES AND + THEIR USE—ON ICE-SLOPES AND THEIR SAFETY—CRAMPONS—ARRIVAL AT + CHAMOUNIX</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href="#Pg239" class= + "tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">239-246</a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">CHAPTER XVI.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE + AIGUILLE VERTE.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">CROZ LEAVES US—CHRISTIAN ALMER—SUNSET ON THE MER DE + GLACE—ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE—ADVICE TO MOUNTAIN WALKERS—VIEW FROM THE + SUMMIT—STORMS COME ON—A WORTHY PORTER—THE NOBLE ATTITUDE OF + CHAMOUNIX</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href="#Pg247" class= + "tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">247-254</a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">CHAPTER XVII.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE + COL DE TALÈFRE.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">THE COL DU GÉANT—THE GLACIER DE TALÈFRE—EASY WAY + FROM CHAMOUNIX TO COURMAYEUR—GLISSADING—PASSES OVER THE MAIN CHAIN OF + MONT BLANC</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href="#Pg255" class= + "tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">255-258</a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">CHAPTER XVIII.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE + RUINETTE—THE MATTERHORN.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">FACILITY WITH WHICH THE RUINETTE CAN BE + ASCENDED—NOBLE PANORAMA—ON CONCEALED CREVASSES—GUIDES’ OBJECTION TO + USE OF THE ROPE—ON THE USE AND ABUSE OF THE ROPE—ALMER DECLINES THE + MATTERHORN—ENGAGE THE CARRELS—THEIR DEFECTION—THE ITALIANS STEAL A + MARCH—ARRIVAL OF LORD FRANCIS DOUGLAS—MEETING WITH CROZ, HUDSON, AND + HADOW</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href="#Pg259" class= + "tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">259-272</a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">CHAPTER XIX.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE + MATTERHORN.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">CHARLES HUDSON—CAMP ON THE EAST FACE—CROZ REPORTS + FAVOURABLY—ASCENT OF THE EASTERN FACE—CROSS TO THE NORTHERN + SIDE—ARRIVAL AT SUMMIT—DISCOMFITURE OF THE ITALIANS—ASTONISHMENT AT + BREIL—MARVELLOUS PANORAMA</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href="#Pg273" class= + "tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">273-283</a></p><span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="pagexviii">[pg xviii]</span><a name="Pgyviii" id= + "Pgyviii" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">CHAPTER XX.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">THE DESCENT OF THE + MATTERHORN.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">ORDER OF THE DESCENT—A FRIGHTFUL AVALANCHE—HADOW + SLIPS—DEATH OF CROZ, HADOW, HUDSON, AND LORD F. DOUGLAS—TERROR OF THE + TAUGWALDERS—THE BROKEN ROPE—AN APPARITION—AN INFAMOUS + PROPOSITION—SURPRISED BY NIGHT—SEARCH FOR AND RECOVERY OF THE + BODIES—OFFICIAL EXAMINATION—THE END</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href="#Pg284" class= + "tei tei-ref" style="text-align: right">284-298</a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">APPENDIX.</span></p> + + <table summary="This is a table" cellspacing="0" class= + "tei tei-table" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> + <colgroup span="2"></colgroup> + + <tbody> + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">PAGE</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">A.</span></span> THE DEATH OF BENNEN</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#Pg301" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">301</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">B.</span></span> STRUCK BY LIGHTNING UPON + THE MATTERHORN</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#Pg303" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">303</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">C.</span></span> NOTE ON THE HIGHEST + MOUNTAIN IN FRANCE</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#Pg304" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">304</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">D.</span></span> SUBSEQUENT HISTORY OF THE + MATTERHORN</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#Pg304" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">304</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">E.</span></span> TABLE OF ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND + THE MATTERHORN</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#Pg315" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">315</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">F.</span></span> TABLE OF ASCENTS OF THE + MATTERHORN</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#Pg316" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">316</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">G.</span></span> GEOLOGY OF THE MATTERHORN, + BY SIG. F. GIORDANO</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#Pg323" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">323</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">H.</span></span> PROFESSOR TYNDALL AND THE + MATTERHORN</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#Pg325" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">325</a></td> + </tr> + </tbody> + </table> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="pagexix">[pg xix]</span><a name="Pgxix" + id="Pgxix" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc5" id= + "toc5"></a><a name="pdf6" id="pdf6"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</span></h1> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 0.75em"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">The Drawings were made on the Wood by</span><br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-variant: small-caps">H. J. + Boot</span></span><span style="font-size: 75%">,</span> <span class= + "tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-variant: small-caps">Gustave + Doré</span></span><span style="font-size: 75%">,</span> <span class= + "tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-variant: small-caps">C. + Johnson</span></span><span style="font-size: 75%">,</span> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-variant: small-caps">J. + Mahoney</span></span><span style="font-size: 75%">,</span> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-variant: small-caps">J. W. + North</span></span><span style="font-size: 75%">,</span> <span class= + "tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-variant: small-caps">P. + Skelton</span></span><span style="font-size: 75%">,</span> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-variant: small-caps">W. G. + Smith</span></span><span style="font-size: 75%">,</span> <span class= + "tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-variant: small-caps">C. J. + Staniland</span></span><span style="font-size: 75%">, and</span> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-variant: small-caps">J. + Wolf</span></span><span style="font-size: 75%">; and were Engraved + by</span> <span class="tei tei-hi" style= + "text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-variant: small-caps">J. W.</span></span> + <span style="font-size: 75%">and</span> <span class="tei tei-hi" + style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-variant: small-caps">Edward + Whymper</span></span><span style="font-size: 75%">.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.20em"><span style= + "font-size: 120%">FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.</span></p> + + <table summary="This is a table" cellspacing="0" class= + "tei tei-table" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> + <colgroup span="4"></colgroup> + + <tbody> + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">1.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span class= + "tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">“</span><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">They saw masses of rocks, boulders + and stones, big and little, dart round the + corner</span><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">”</span></span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><a href= + "#plate01" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: center"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Frontispiece.</span></a></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">2.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Outlines of the Matterhorn from the + North-East and from the Summit of the Théodule Pass (to show + Ridges, and Points attained on the different attempts to Ascend + the Mountain)</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style= + "text-align: center"><span style="font-style: italic">To face + page</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#plate02" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">44</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">3.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Matterhorn, from near the Summit + of the Théodule Pass</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">„</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#plate03" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">46</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">4.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span class= + "tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">“</span><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Chimney</span><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">”</span></span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">„</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#plate04" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">76</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">5.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span class= + "tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">“</span><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">In attempting to pass the corner I + slipped and fell</span><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">”</span></span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">„</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#plate05" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">78</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">6.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">A Cannonade on the Matterhorn + (1862)</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">„</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#plate06" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">84</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">7.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span class= + "tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">“</span><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">They scattered in a panic when + saluted by the cries Of my excited comrade</span><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">”</span></span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">„</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#plate07" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">107</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">8.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Crags of the Matterhorn, during + the Storm, Midnight, August 10, 1863</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">„</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#plate08" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">120</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">9.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Club-Room of Zermatt in + 1864</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">„</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#plate09" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">202</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">10.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Matterhorn from the + Riffelberg</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">„</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">227<a href= + "#plate10" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right"></a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">11.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Sections of the + Matterhorn</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">„</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#plate11" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">230</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">12.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Fog-bow, seen from the Matterhorn on + July 14, 1865</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">„</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#plate12" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">288</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">13.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Hut on the Eastern Face (Zermatt + side) of the Matterhorn</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">„</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#plate13" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">309</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">14.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Geological Section of the + Matterhorn</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: center">„</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#plate14" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">324</a></td> + </tr> + </tbody> + </table><span class="tei tei-pb" id="pagexx">[pg xx]</span><a name= + "Pgxx" id="Pgxx" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">IN THE TEXT.</p><a name= + "Pgxxi" id="Pgxxi" class="tei tei-anchor"></a><a name="Pgxxii" id= + "Pgxxii" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <table summary="This is a table" cellspacing="0" class= + "tei tei-table" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> + <colgroup span="3"></colgroup> + + <tbody> + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><span class= + "tei tei-hi" style="text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">PAGE</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">1.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Point of + Alpenstock</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig01" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">vii</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">2.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Birmingham Pick-axe with moveable + head</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig02" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">viii</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">3.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Russian Furnace</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig03" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">viii</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">4.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Cooking Tins</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig04" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">ix</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">5.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Snow Spectacles</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig05" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">x</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">6.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Arctic Cap</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig06" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">xi</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">7.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Complete + Disguise</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig07" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">xi</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">8.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Beachy Head</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig08" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">1</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">9.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Devil of Notre + Dame</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig09" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">2</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">10.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Church in + Difficulties</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig10" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">5</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">11.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">At the St. + Bernard</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig11" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">6</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">12.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Village of + Biona</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig12" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">7</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">13.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Crossing Mont + Cenis</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig13" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">9</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">14.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span class= + "tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">“</span><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Garibaldi!</span><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">”</span></span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig14" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">10</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">15.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">A Bit of the Village of + Zermatt</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig15" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">12</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">16.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Briançon</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig16" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">13</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">17.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Mont Pelvoux from above La + Bessée</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig17" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">19</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">18.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Grand Pelvoux de Val + Louise</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig18" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">21</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">19.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Buttresses of Mont + Pelvoux</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig19" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">26</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">20.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Portrait of the late R. J. S. + Macdonald</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig20" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">29</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">21.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Outline to show Route up Mont + Pelvoux</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig21" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">31</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">22.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Blanket Bag</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig22" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">38</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">23.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Natural Pillar near + Molines</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig23" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">40</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">24.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Portrait of the late J. J. + Bennen</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig24" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">48</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">25.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Portrait of Jean-Antoine + Carrel</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig25" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">51</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">26.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Col du Lion: looking towards the + Tête du Lion</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig26" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">53</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">27.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Diagram to show manner of fastening + Tent-poles</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig27" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">62</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">28.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Author’s Mountain + Tent</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig28" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">62</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">29.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Climbing Claw</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig29" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">72</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">30.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Rope and Ring</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig30" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">73</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">31.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">At Breil + (Giomein)</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig31" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">79</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">32.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Matterhorn from + Breil</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig32" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">85</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">33.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span class= + "tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">“</span><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">But what is this?</span><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">”</span></span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig33" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">88</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">34.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">An Arch of the Aqueduct in the Val + Tournanche</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#ill092" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">92</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">35.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Water-worn Rocks in the Gorge below + the Gorner Glacier</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig35" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">96</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">36.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Striations produced by + Glacier-action</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig36" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">97</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">37.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Chamois in + Difficulties</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig37" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">102</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">38.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span class= + "tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">“</span><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Carrel lowered me + down</span><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">”</span></span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig38" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">108</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">39.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Portrait of the late Canon Carrel of + Aosta</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig39" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">109</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">40.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Portrait of Monsieur + Favre</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig40" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">121</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">41.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Crossing the + Channel</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig41" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">123</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">42.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Portrait of the late Michel-Auguste + Croz</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig42" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">125</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">43.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Plan to show + Route</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#ill128" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">128</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">44.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Aiguilles d’Arve, from above the + Chalets of Rieu Blanc</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig44" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">130</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">45.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Portrait of Melchior + Anderegg</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig45" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">138</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">46.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Map of the Brèche de la Meije, + etc.</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig46" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">140</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">47.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Diagram to show Angle of Summit of + Meije, etc.</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig47" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">142</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">48.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Vallon des + Etançons</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig48" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">143</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">49.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Map of the Central Dauphiné + Alps</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig49" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">146</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">50.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Pointe des Ecrins from the Col + du Galibier</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig50" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">155</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">51.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Outline to show Route up Pointe des + Ecrins</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig51" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">156</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">52.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Fragment from the Summit of the + Pointe des Ecrins</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig52" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">159</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">53.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">A Night with Croz</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig53" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">164</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">54.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">A Snow Couloir</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig54" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">169</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">55.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet + Day</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig55" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">184</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">56.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Our Camp on Mont + Suc</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig56" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">185</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">57.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Ice-Avalanche on the Moming + Pass</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig57" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">198</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">58.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Summit of the Moming + Pass</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig58" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">200</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">59.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Facsimile of a Letter From + Croz</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig59" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">208</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">60.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Part of the Southern Ridge of the + Grand Cornier</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig60" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">210</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">61.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Part of the Northern Ridge of the + Grand Cornier</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig61" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">211</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">62.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Portrait of Leslie + Stephen</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig62" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">215</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">63.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Bergschrund on the Dent + Blanche</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig63" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">217</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">64.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Portrait of T. S. + Kennedy</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig64" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">222</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">65.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Diagrams to Show Dip of Strata on + the Matterhorn</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig65" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">229</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">66.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">My Tent-bearer—The + Hunchback</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig66" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">234</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">67.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Grandes Jorasses and the Doire + Torrent</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig67" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">237</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">68.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Summit of the Col + Dolent</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig68" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">241</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">69.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">My Ice-axe</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig69" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">243</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">70.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Kennedy Ice-axe</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig70" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">244</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">71.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Leslie Stephen + Ice-axe</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig71" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">244</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">72.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Crampon</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#ill245" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">245</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">73.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Portrait of Christian + Almer</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig73" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">248</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">74.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">On the Mer de + Glace</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig74" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">249</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">75.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Western Side of the Col de + Talèfre</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig75" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">255</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">76.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Glissading</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig76" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">257</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">77.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Wrong Way to use a Rope on + Glacier</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#ill263" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">263</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">78.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Right Way to use a Rope on + Glacier</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig78" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">264</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">79.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span class= + "tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">“</span><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Croz! Croz!! Come + Here!</span><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">”</span></span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig79" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">279</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">80.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Summit of the Matterhorn in + 1865</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig80" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">281</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">81.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Actual Summit of the + Matterhorn</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig81" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">284</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">82.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Rope broken on the + Matterhorn</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig82" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">287</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">83.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Diagram of + Fog-bow</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#ill289" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">289</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">84.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Portrait of Monsieur Alex. + Seiler</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig84" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">290</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">85.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Manilla Rope broken on the + Matterhorn</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig85" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">292</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">86.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">“</span><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Second</span><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">”</span></span> <span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">Rope broken on the + Matterhorn</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig86" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">293</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">87.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The English Church at + Zermatt</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig87" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">294</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">88.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The End</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig88" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">298</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">89.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Chapel at the + Schwarzsee</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig89" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">310</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">90.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Summit of the Matterhorn in 1874 + (Northern End)</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#fig90" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">311</a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">91.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span class= + "tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">“</span><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The things which tumble about the + ears of unwary travellers</span><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">”</span></span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"><a href= + "#ill325" class="tei tei-ref" style= + "text-align: right">325</a></td> + </tr> + </tbody> + </table> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em">MAPS.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class="tei tei-hi" + style="text-align: center"><span style="font-style: italic">To be + placed at the end of the Volume.</span></span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href="#map1" class= + "tei tei-ref" style="text-align: center">1.</a> <span class= + "tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Matterhorn and its + Glaciers</span></span> (<span class="tei tei-hi" style= + "text-align: center"><span style="font-style: italic">in + colours</span></span>).</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href="#map2" class= + "tei tei-ref" style="text-align: center">2.</a> <span class= + "tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">The Valley of Zermatt; and the Central + Pennine Alps.</span></span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 0.75em; margin-top: 1.50em"> + <span style="font-size: 75%">The body of the work has been printed by + Messrs.</span> <span class="tei tei-hi" style= + "text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-variant: small-caps">William Clowes and + Sons</span></span><span style="font-size: 75%">; and the separate + Plates have been printed by the</span> <span class="tei tei-hi" + style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-variant: small-caps">Author</span></span><span style="font-size: 75%">.</span></p> + </div> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-body" style= + "margin-bottom: 6.00em; margin-top: 6.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-pb"></div><a name="Pgxxiii" id="Pgxxiii" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.73em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN</span></p> + + <div class="tei tei-pb"></div><a name="Pgxxiv" id="Pgxxiv" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page1">[pg + 1]</span><a name="Pg001" id="Pg001" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + <a name="fig08" id="fig08" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + <hr class="page" /> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus024.jpg" alt="Illustration: Beachy Head" title= + "BEACHY HEAD." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + BEACHY HEAD. + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <a name="toc7" id="toc7"></a><a name="pdf8" id="pdf8"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER I.</span></h1> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On the 23d of July + 1860, I started for my first tour in the Alps. As we steamed out into + the Channel, Beachy Head came into view, and recalled a scramble of + many years ago. With the impudence of ignorance, my brother<a id= + "noteref_4" name="noteref_4" href="#note_4"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">4</span></span></a> and I, + schoolboys both, had tried to scale that great chalk cliff. Not the + head itself—where sea-birds circle, and where the flints are ranged + so orderly in parallel lines—but at a place more to the east, where + the pinnacle called the Devil’s Chimney had fallen down. Since that + time we have been often in dangers of different kinds, but never have + we more nearly broken our necks than upon that occasion.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In Paris I made + two ascents. The first to the seventh floor of <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page2">[pg 2]</span><a name="Pg002" id="Pg002" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>a house in the Quartier Latin—to an artist + friend, who was engaged, at the moment of my entry, in combat with a + little Jew. He hurled him with great good-will, and with considerable + force, into some of his crockery, and then recommended me to go up + the towers of Notre Dame. Half-an-hour later I stood on the parapet + of the great west front, by the side of the leering fiend which for + centuries has looked down upon the great city, and then took rail to + Switzerland; saw the sunlight lingering on the giants of the + Oberland; heard the echoes from the cow-horns in the Lauterbrunnen + valley and the avalanches rattling off the Jungfrau; and crossed the + Gemmi into the Valais.</p><a name="fig09" id="fig09" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus025.png" alt= + "Illustration: The devil of Notre Dame" title= + "THE DEVIL OF NOTRE DAME." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE DEVIL OF NOTRE DAME. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I was bound for + the valley of Saas, and my work took me high up the Alps on either + side; far beyond the limit of trees and the tracks of tourists. The + view from the slopes of the Weissmies, on the eastern side of the + valley, 5000 or 6000 feet above the village of Saas, is perhaps the + finest of its kind in the Alps. The full height of the three-peaked + Mischabel (the highest mountain in Switzerland) is seen at one + glance; 11,000 feet of dense forests, green alps, rocky pinnacles, + and glittering glaciers. The peaks seemed to me then to be hopelessly + inaccessible from this direction.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I next descended + the valley to the village of Stalden, and went up the Visp Thal to + Zermatt, and stopped there several days. Numerous traces of the + formidable earthquake-shocks of five years before still remained; + particularly at St. Nicholas, where the inhabitants had been + terrified beyond measure at the destruction of their churches and + houses. At this place, as well as at Visp, a large part of the + population was obliged to live under canvas for several months. It is + remarkable that there was hardly a life lost <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page3">[pg 3]</span><a name="Pg003" id="Pg003" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>on this occasion, although there were about + fifty shocks, some of which were very severe.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At Zermatt I + wandered in many directions, but the weather was bad, and my work was + much retarded. One day, after spending a long time in attempts to + sketch near the Hörnli, and in futile endeavours to seize the forms + of the peaks as they for a few seconds peered out from above the + dense banks of woolly clouds, I determined not to return to Zermatt + by the usual path, and to cross the Gorner glacier to the Riffel + hotel. After a rapid scramble over the polished rocks and snowbeds + which skirt the base of the Théodule glacier, and wading through some + of the streams which flow from it, at that time much swollen by the + late rains, the first difficulty was arrived at, in the shape of a + precipice about three hundred feet high. It seemed that it would be + easy enough to cross the glacier if the cliff could be descended; but + higher up, and lower down, the ice appeared, to my inexperienced + eyes, to be impassable for a single person. The general contour of + the cliff was nearly perpendicular, but it was a good deal broken up, + and there was little difficulty in descending by zigzagging from one + mass to another. At length there was a long slab, nearly smooth, + fixed at an angle of about forty degrees between two wall-sided + pieces of rock. Nothing, except the glacier, could be seen below. It + was an awkward place, but I passed it at length by lying across the + slab, putting the shoulders stiffly against one side, and the feet + against the other, and gradually wriggling down, by first moving the + legs and then the back. When the bottom of the slab was gained a + friendly crack was seen, into which the point of the baton could be + stuck, and I dropped down to the next piece. It took a long time + coming down that little bit of cliff, and for a few seconds it was + satisfactory to see the ice close at hand. In another moment a second + difficulty presented itself. The glacier swept round an angle of the + cliff, and as the ice was not of the nature of treacle or thin putty, + it kept away from the little bay, on the edge of which I stood. We + were not widely separated, but the edge of the ice was higher + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page4">[pg 4]</span><a name="Pg004" id= + "Pg004" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>than the opposite edge of rock; + and worse, the rock was covered with loose earth and stones which had + fallen from above. All along the side of the cliff, as far as could + be seen in both directions, the ice did not touch it, but there was + this marginal crevasse, seven feet wide, and of unknown depth.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">All this was seen + at a glance, and almost at once I concluded that I could not jump the + crevasse, and began to try along the cliff lower down; but without + success, for the ice rose higher and higher, until at last further + progress was stopped by the cliffs becoming perfectly smooth. With an + axe it would have been possible to cut up the side of the ice; + without one I saw there was no alternative but to return and face the + jump.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Night was + approaching, and the solemn stillness of the High Alps was broken + only by the sound of rushing water or of falling rocks. If the jump + should be successful,—well; if not, I fell into that horrible chasm, + to be frozen in, or drowned in that gurgling, rushing water. + Everything depended on that jump. Again I asked myself, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Can it be done?”</span> It <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">must</span></span> be. + So, finding my stick was useless, I threw it and the sketch-book to + the ice, and first retreating as far as possible, ran forward with + all my might, took the leap, barely reached the other side, and fell + awkwardly on my knees.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The glacier was + crossed without further trouble, but the Riffel,<a id="noteref_5" + name="noteref_5" href="#note_5"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">5</span></span></a> which was + then a very small building, was crammed with tourists, and could not + take me in. As the way down was unknown to me, some of the people + obligingly suggested getting a man at the chalets, otherwise the path + would be certainly lost in the forest. On arriving at the chalets no + man could be found, and the lights <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page5">[pg 5]</span><a name="Pg005" id="Pg005" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>of Zermatt, shining through the trees, seemed to + say, <span class="tei tei-q">“Never mind a guide, but come along + down, I’ll show you the way;”</span> so off I went through the + forest, going straight towards them. The path was lost in a moment, + and was never recovered. I was tripped up by pine-roots, tumbled over + rhododendron bushes, fell over rocks. The night was pitch dark, and + after a time the lights of Zermatt became obscure, or went out + altogether. By a series of slides, or falls, or evolutions more or + less disagreeable, the descent through the forest was at length + accomplished; but torrents of formidable character had still to be + passed before one could arrive at Zermatt. I felt my way about for + hours, almost hopelessly; by an exhaustive process at last + discovering a bridge, and about midnight, covered with dirt and + scratches, re-entered the inn which I had quitted in the + morning.</p><a name="fig10" id="fig10" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus028.png" alt= + "Illustration: The church in difficulties" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Others besides + tourists get into difficulties. A day or two afterwards, when on the + way to my old station, near the Hörnli, I met a stout curé who had + essayed to cross the Théodule pass. His strength or his wind had + failed, and he was being carried down, a helpless bundle and a + ridiculous spectacle, on the back of a lanky guide; while the + peasants stood by, with folded hands, their reverence for the church + almost overcome by their sense of the ludicrous.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I descended the + valley, diverging from the path at Randa to mount the slopes of the + Dom,<a id="noteref_6" name="noteref_6" href="#note_6"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">6</span></span></a> in order + to see the Weisshorn face to face. The latter mountain is the noblest + in Switzerland, and from this direction it looks especially + magnificent. On its north there is a large snowy plateau that feeds + the glacier of which a portion is seen from Randa, and which on more + than one occasion has destroyed that village. From the direction of + the Dom (that <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page6">[pg + 6]</span><a name="Pg006" id="Pg006" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>is, + immediately opposite) this Bies glacier seems to descend nearly + vertically. It does not do so, although it is very steep. Its size is + much less than formerly, and the lower portion, now divided into + three tails, clings in a strange, weird-like manner to the cliffs, to + which it seems scarcely possible that it can remain + attached.</p><a name="fig11" id="fig11" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus029.png" alt="Illustration: At the St. Bernard" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Arriving once more + in the <span class="tei tei-sic">Rhone</span> valley, I proceeded to + Viesch, and from thence ascended the Eggischorn; on which unpleasant + eminence I lost my way in a fog, and my temper shortly afterwards. + Then, after crossing the Grimsel in a severe thunderstorm, passed on + to Brienz, Interlachen, and Bern; and thence to Fribourg and Morat, + Neuchâtel, Martigny, and the St. Bernard. The massive walls of the + convent were a welcome sight as I waded through the snow-beds near + the summit of the pass, and pleasant also was the courteous + salutation of the brother who bade me enter. He wondered at the + weight of my knapsack, and I at the hardness of his bread. The saying + that the monks make the toast in the winter that they give to + tourists in the following season is not founded on truth; the winter + is their most busy time of the year. But it <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">is</span></span> true + they have exercised so much hospitality, that at times they have not + possessed the means to furnish the fuel for heating their chapel in + the winter.<a id="noteref_7" name="noteref_7" href= + "#note_7"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">7</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Instead of + descending to Aosta, I turned aside into the Val Pelline, in order to + obtain views of the Dent d’Erin. The night had come on before Biona + was gained, and I had to knock long and loud upon the door of the + curé’s house before it was opened. An old woman, with querulous + voice, and with a large goître, <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page7">[pg 7]</span><a name="Pg007" id="Pg007" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>answered the summons, and demanded rather + sharply what was wanted; but became pacific—almost good-natured—when + a five-franc piece was held in her face, and she heard that lodging + and supper were requested in exchange.</p><a name="fig12" id="fig12" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus030.png" alt= + "Illustration: The village of Biona" title= + "THE VILLAGE OF BIONA." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE VILLAGE OF BIONA. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">My directions + asserted that a passage existed from Prerayen, at the head of this + valley, to Breil,<a id="noteref_8" name="noteref_8" href= + "#note_8"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">8</span></span></a> in the + Val Tournanche, and the old woman, now convinced of my + respectability, busied herself to find a guide. Presently she + introduced a native, picturesquely attired in high-peaked hat, + braided jacket, scarlet waistcoat, and <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page8">[pg 8]</span><a name="Pg008" id="Pg008" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>indigo pantaloons, who agreed to take me to the + village of Val Tournanche. We set off early on the next morning, and + got to the summit of the pass without difficulty. It gave me my first + experience of considerable slopes of hard steep snow, and, like all + beginners, I endeavoured to prop myself up with my stick, and kept it + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">outside</span></span>, instead of holding it + between myself and the slope, and leaning upon it, as should have + been done. The man enlightened me; but he had, properly, a very small + opinion of his employer, and it is probably on that account that, a + few minutes after we had passed the summit, he said he would not go + any further and would return to Biona. All argument was useless; he + stood still, and to everything that was said answered nothing but + that he would go back. Being rather nervous about descending some + long snow-slopes, which still intervened between us and the head of + the valley, I offered more pay, and he went on a little way. + Presently there were some cliffs down which we had to scramble. He + called to me to stop, then shouted that he would go back, and + beckoned to me to come up. On the contrary, I waited for him to come + down; but instead of doing so, in a second or two he turned round, + clambered deliberately up the cliff, and vanished. I supposed it was + only a ruse to extort offers of more money, and waited for + half-an-hour, but he did not appear again. This was rather + embarrassing, for he carried off my knapsack. The choice of action + lay between chasing him and going on to Breil, risking the loss of my + knapsack. I chose the latter course, and got to Breil the same + evening. The landlord of the inn, suspicious of a person entirely + innocent of luggage, was doubtful if he could admit me, and + eventually thrust me into a kind of loft, which was already occupied + by guides and by hay. In later years we became good friends, and he + did not hesitate to give credit and even to advance considerable + sums.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">My sketches from + Breil were made under difficulties, for my materials had been carried + off. Nothing better than fine sugar-paper could be obtained, and the + pencils seemed to contain more <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page9">[pg 9]</span><a name="Pg009" id="Pg009" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>silica than plumbago. However, they <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">were</span></span> + made, and the pass<a id="noteref_9" name="noteref_9" href= + "#note_9"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">9</span></span></a> was again + crossed, this time alone. By the following evening the old woman of + Biona again produced the faithless guide. The knapsack was recovered + after the lapse of several hours, and then I poured forth all the + terms of abuse and reproach of which I was master. The man smiled + when called a liar, and shrugged his shoulders when referred to as a + thief, but drew his knife when spoken of as a pig.</p><a name="fig13" + id="fig13" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus032.png" alt= + "Illustration: Crossing Mont Cenis" title="CROSSING MONT CENIS." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + CROSSING MONT CENIS. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The following + night was spent at Courmayeur, and the day after I crossed the Col + Ferret to Orsières, and on the next the Tête Noire to Chamounix. The + Emperor Napoleon arrived on the same day, and access to the Mer de + Glace was refused to tourists; but, by scrambling along the Plan des + Aiguilles, I managed to outwit the guards, and to arrive at the + Montanvert as the Imperial party <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page10">[pg 10]</span><a name="Pg010" id="Pg010" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>was leaving: the same afternoon failing to get + to the Jardin, but very nearly succeeding in breaking a leg by + dislodging great rocks on the moraine of the glacier.</p><a name= + "fig14" id="fig14" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus033.png" alt="Illustration: Garibaldi!" + title="“GARIBALDI!”" /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style= + "text-align: center">“GARIBALDI!”</span> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">From Chamounix I + went to Geneva, and thence by the Mont Cenis to Turin and to the + Vaudois valleys. A long and weary day had ended when Paesana was + reached. The inn was full, and I was tired, and about to go to bed, + when some village stragglers entered and began to sing. They sang to + Garibaldi! The tenor, a ragged fellow, whose clothes were not worth a + shilling, took the lead with wonderful expression and feeling. The + others kept their places, and sang in admirable time. For hours I sat + enchanted; and, long after I retired, the sound of their melody could + be heard, relieved at times by the treble of the girl who belonged to + the inn.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The next morning I + passed the little lakes, which are the sources of the Po, on my way + into France. The weather was stormy, and misinterpreting the patois + of some natives—who in reality pointed out the right way—I missed the + track, and found myself under the cliffs of Monte Viso. A gap that + was occasionally seen, in the ridge connecting it with the mountains + to the east, tempted me up; and, after a battle with a snow-slope of + excessive steepness, I reached the summit. The scene was + extraordinary, and, in my experience, unique. To the north there was + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page11">[pg 11]</span><a name="Pg011" + id="Pg011" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>not a particle of mist, and the + violent wind coming from that direction blew one back staggering. But + on the side of Italy, the valleys were completely filled with dense + masses of cloud to a certain level; and there—where they felt the + influence of the wind—they were cut off as level as the top of a + table, the ridges appearing above them.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I raced down to + Abries, and went on through the gorge of the Guil to Mont Dauphin. + The next day found me at La Bessée, at the junction of the Val Louise + with the valley of the Durance, in full view of Mont Pelvoux; and by + chance I walked into a cabaret where a Frenchman was breakfasting, + who, a few days before, had made an unsuccessful attempt to ascend + that mountain with three Englishmen and the guide Michel Croz of + Chamounix;<a id="noteref_10" name="noteref_10" href= + "#note_10"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">10</span></span></a> a right + good fellow, by name Jean Reynaud.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The same night I + slept at Briançon, intending to take the courier on the following day + to Grenoble; but all places had been secured several days beforehand, + so I set out at two <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> on the next day for a + seventy-mile walk. The weather was again bad; and on the summit of + the Col de Lautaret I was forced to seek shelter in the wretched + little hospice. It was filled with workmen who were employed on the + road, and with noxious vapours which proceeded from them. The + inclemency of the weather was preferable to the inhospitality of the + interior. Outside, it was disagreeable, but grand; inside, it was + disagreeable and mean.<a id="noteref_11" name="noteref_11" href= + "#note_11"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">11</span></span></a> The walk + was continued under a deluge of rain, and I felt the way down—so + intense was the darkness—to the village of La Grave, where the people + of the inn detained me forcibly. It was perhaps fortunate that they + did so; for, during that night, blocks of rock fell at several places + from the cliffs on to the road with such force that they made large + pits in the macadam. I resumed <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page12">[pg 12]</span><a name="Pg012" id="Pg012" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>the walk at half-past five the next morning, and + proceeded, under steady rain, through Bourg d’Oysans to Grenoble, + arriving at the latter place soon after seven <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span>, having + accomplished the entire distance from Briançon in about eighteen + hours of actual walking.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This was the end + of the Alpine portion of my tour of 1860, on which I was introduced + to the great peaks, and acquired the passion for mountain-scrambling, + the development of which is described in the following + chapters.</p><a name="fig15" id="fig15" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus035.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: A bit of the village of Zermatt" title= + "A BIT OF THE VILLAGE OF ZERMATT." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + A BIT OF THE VILLAGE OF ZERMATT. + </div> + </div><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page13">[pg 13]</span><a name= + "Pg013" id="Pg013" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="fig16" id= + "fig16" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + <hr class="page" /> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus036.jpg" alt="Illustration: Briançon" title= + "BRIANÇON." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + BRIANÇON. + </div> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <a name="toc9" id="toc9"></a> <a name="pdf10" id="pdf10"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER II.</span></h1> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">THE ASCENT OF MONT PELVOUX.</span></h1> + + <div class="tei tei-epigraph" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 9.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-lg" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-left: 1.80em; margin-top: 0.90em"> + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Thus + fortune on our first endeavour smiles.</span><span style= + "font-size: 90%">”</span></span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style= + "text-align: left; margin-left: 18.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Virgil.</span></span> + </div> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The district of + which Mont Pelvoux and the neighbouring summits are the culminating + points,<a id="noteref_12" name="noteref_12" href= + "#note_12"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">12</span></span></a> is, both + historically and topographically, one of the most interesting in the + Alps. As the nursery and the home of the Vaudois, it has claims to + permanent attention. The names of Waldo and of Neff will be + remembered when men <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page14">[pg + 14]</span><a name="Pg014" id="Pg014" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>more + famous in their time will be forgotten; and the memory of the heroic + courage and the simple piety of their disciples will endure as long + as history lasts.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This district + contains the highest summits in France, and some of its finest + scenery. It has not perhaps the beauties of Switzerland, but has + charms of its own; its cliffs, its torrents, and its gorges are + unsurpassed; its deep and savage valleys present pictures of + grandeur, and even sublimity, and it is second to none in the + boldness of its mountain forms.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The district + includes a mass of valleys which vie with each other in singularity + of character and dissimilarity of climate. Some the rays of the sun + can never reach, they are so deep and narrow.<a id="noteref_13" name= + "noteref_13" href="#note_13"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">13</span></span></a> In + others the very antipodes may be found; the temperature more like + that of the plains of Italy than of Alpine France. This great range + of climate has a marked effect on the flora of these valleys. + Sterility reigns in some; stones take the place of trees; débris and + mud replace plants and flowers: in others, in the space of a few + miles, one passes vines, apple, pear, and cherry trees, the birch, + alder, walnut, ash, larch, and pine, alternating with fields of rye, + barley, oats, beans, and potatoes.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The valleys are + for the most part short and erratic. They are not, apparently, + arranged on any definite plan. They are not disposed, as is + frequently the case elsewhere, either at right angles to, or parallel + with, the highest summits; but they wander hither and thither, take + one direction for a few miles, then double back, and then perhaps + resume their original course. Thus, long perspectives are rarely to + be seen, and it is difficult to form a general idea of the + disposition of the peaks.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The highest + summits are arranged almost in a horse-shoe form. The highest of all, + which occupies a central position, is the Pointe <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page15">[pg 15]</span><a name="Pg015" id="Pg015" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>des Ecrins; the second in height, the + Meije,<a id="noteref_14" name="noteref_14" href= + "#note_14"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">14</span></span></a> is on + the north; and the Mont Pelvoux, which gives its name to the entire + block, stands almost detached by itself on the outside.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The district is + still very imperfectly known; there are probably many valleys, and + there are certainly many summits which have never been trodden by the + feet of tourists or travellers; but in 1861 it was even less known. + Until quite recently there was, practically, no map of it;<a id= + "noteref_15" name="noteref_15" href="#note_15"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">15</span></span></a> General + Bourcet’s, which was the best that was published, was completely + wrong in its delineation of the mountains, and was frequently + incorrect in regard to paths or roads.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The mountainous + regions of Dauphiné, moreover, are not supplied, like Switzerland, + Tyrol, or even the Italian valleys, with accommodation for + travellers. The inns, when they exist, are often filthy beyond + description; rest is seldom obtained in their beds, or decent food + found in their kitchens, and there are no local guides worth having. + The tourist is thrown very much on his own resources, and it is not + therefore surprising that these districts are less visited and less + known than the rest of the Alps.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Most of the + statements current in 1861 respecting these mountains had been + derived from two authors<a id="noteref_16" name="noteref_16" href= + "#note_16"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">16</span></span></a>—M. Elie + de Beaumont <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page16">[pg + 16]</span><a name="Pg016" id="Pg016" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and + the late Principal J. D. Forbes. Their works, however, contained + numerous errors in regard to the identification of the peaks, and, + amongst others, they referred the supremacy to the Mont Pelvoux, the + highest point of which they termed the Pointe des Arcines, or des + Ecrins. Principal Forbes erroneously identified the high peak seen + from the valley of St. Christophe, with that seen from the valley of + the Durance, and spoke of both as the Mont Pelvoux, and M. de + Beaumont committed similar mistakes. In point of fact, at the time + when M. de Beaumont and Forbes wrote their respective memoirs, the + proper relation of the Mont Pelvoux to the neighbouring summits had + been determined by the engineers employed on the survey for the map + of France, but their observations were not then accessible to the + public, although they had evidently been seen by M. de Beaumont. This + party of surveyors, led by Captain Durand, made the ascent of Mont + Pelvoux from the side of the Val d’Ailefroide—that is, from the + direction of Val Louise—in 1828. According to the natives of the Val + Louise, they got to the top of the second peak in height, and + remained upon it, lodged in a tent for several days, at a height of + 12,904 feet. They took numerous porters to carry wood for fires, and + erected a large cairn on the summit, which has caused the name of Pic + de la Pyramide to be given to their summit.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In 1848, M. + Puiseux made the ascent from the same direction, but his Val Louisan + guide stopped short of the summit, and allowed this courageous + astronomer to proceed by himself.<a id="noteref_17" name="noteref_17" + href="#note_17"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">17</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In the middle of + August 1860, Messrs. Bonney, Hawkshaw, and Mathews, with Michel Croz + of Chamounix, tried to ascend the Pelvoux, likewise from the same + direction. These gentlemen spent <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page17">[pg 17]</span><a name="Pg017" id="Pg017" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>several days and nights upon the mountain; and, + encountering bad weather, only attained a height of 10,430 feet.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">M. Jean Reynaud, + of whom mention has been made in the preceding chapter, accompanied + the party of Mr. Mathews, and he was of opinion that the attempt had + been made too late in the season. He said that the weather was + usually good enough for high mountain ascents <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">only</span></span> + during the last few days of July, and the first ones of August,<a id= + "noteref_18" name="noteref_18" href="#note_18"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">18</span></span></a> and + suggested that we should attempt to ascend the mountain in the + following year at that time. The proposition was a tempting one, and + Reynaud’s cordial and modest manner made it irresistible, although + there seemed small chance that we should succeed where a party such + as that of Mr. Mathews had been beaten.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At the beginning + of July 1861, I despatched to Reynaud from Havre, blankets (which + were taxed as <span class="tei tei-q">“prohibited fabrics”</span>), + rope, and other things desirable for the excursion, and set out on + the tour of France; but, four weeks later, at Nîmes, found myself + completely collapsed by the heat, then 94° Faht. in the shade, and + took a night train at once to Grenoble.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Grenoble is a town + upon which a volume might be written. Its situation is probably the + finest of any in France, and the views from its high forts are + superb. I lost my way in the streets of this picturesque and noisome + town, and having but a half-hour left in which to get a dinner and + take a place in the diligence, was not well pleased to hear that an + Englishman wished to see me. It turned out to be my friend Macdonald, + who confided to me that he was going to try to ascend a mountain + called Pelvoux in the course of ten days. On hearing of my + intentions, he agreed to join us at La Bessée on the 3rd of August. + In a few moments <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page18">[pg + 18]</span><a name="Pg018" id="Pg018" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>more + I was perched in the banquette <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">en route</span></span> for Bourg d’Oysans, in a + miserable vehicle which took nearly eight hours to accomplish less + than 30 miles.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At five on a + lovely morning I shouldered my knapsack and started for Briançon. + Gauzy mists clung to the mountains, but melted away when touched by + the sun, and disappeared by jerks (in the manner of views when + focussed in a magic lantern), revealing the wonderfully bent and + folded strata in the limestone cliffs behind the town. Then I entered + the Combe de Malval, and heard the Romanche eating its way through + that wonderful gorge, and passed on to Le Dauphin, where the first + glacier came into view, tailing over the mountain-side on the right. + From this place until the summit of the Col de Lautaret was passed, + every gap in the mountains showed a glittering glacier or a soaring + peak; the finest view was at La Grave, where the Meije rises by a + series of tremendous precipices 8000 feet above the road.<a id= + "noteref_19" name="noteref_19" href="#note_19"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">19</span></span></a> The + finest distant view of the pass is seen after crossing the Col, near + Monêtier. A mountain, commonly supposed to be Monte Viso, appears at + the end of the vista, shooting into the sky;<a id="noteref_20" name= + "noteref_20" href="#note_20"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">20</span></span></a> in the + middle distance, but still ten miles off, is Briançon with its + interminable forts, and in the foreground, leading down to the + Guisane, and rising high up the neighbouring slopes, are fertile + fields, studded with villages and church spires. The next day I + walked over from Briançon to La Bessée, to my worthy friend Jean + Reynaud, the surveyor of roads of his district.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">All the peaks of + Mont Pelvoux are well seen from La Bessée—the highest point, as well + as that upon which the engineers erected their cairn. Neither Reynaud + nor any one else knew this. The natives knew only that the engineers + had ascended one peak, and had seen from that one a still higher + point, which they called the <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page19">[pg + 19]</span><a name="Pg019" id="Pg019" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>Pointe des Arcines or des Ecrins. They could not + say whether this latter could be seen from La Bessée, nor could they + tell the peak upon which the cairn had been erected. We were under + the impression that the highest point was concealed by the peaks + which we saw, and would be gained by passing over them. They knew + nothing of the ascent of Monsieur Puiseux, and they confidently + asserted that the highest point of Mont Pelvoux had not been attained + by any one. It was this point we wished to reach.</p><a name="fig17" + id="fig17" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus042.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: Mont Pelvoux from above La Bessée" title= + "MONT PELVOUX FROM ABOVE LA BESSÉE." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + MONT PELVOUX FROM ABOVE LA BESSÉE. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Nothing prevented + our starting at once but the absence of Macdonald and the want of a + bâton. Reynaud suggested a visit to the postmaster, who possessed a + bâton of local celebrity. Down we went to the bureau; but it was + closed: we halloed through the slits, but no answer. At last the + postmaster was discovered endeavouring (with very fair success) to + make himself intoxicated. He was just able to ejaculate, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“France! ’tis the first nation in the world!”</span> + which is a phrase used by a Frenchman at times when <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page20">[pg 20]</span><a name="Pg020" id="Pg020" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>a Briton would begin to shout, + <span class="tei tei-q">“We won’t go home till + morning”</span>—national glory being uppermost in the thoughts of + one, and home in those of the other. The bâton was produced; it was a + branch of a young oak, about five feet long, gnarled and twisted in + several directions. <span class="tei tei-q">“Sir,”</span> said the + postmaster, as he presented it, <span class="tei tei-q">“France! ’tis + the first—the first nation in the world, by its”</span>—he stuck. + <span class="tei tei-q">“Bâtons?”</span> I suggested. <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Yes, yes, sir; by its bâtons, by its—its,”</span> and + here he could not get on at all. As I looked at this young limb, I + thought of my own; but Reynaud, who knew everything about everybody + in the village, said there was not a better one, so off we went with + it, leaving the official staggering in the road and muttering, + <span class="tei tei-q">“France! ’tis the first nation in the + world!”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The 3rd of August + came, and Macdonald did not appear, so we started for the Val Louise; + our party consisting of Reynaud, myself, and a porter, Jean Casimir + Giraud, nicknamed <span class="tei tei-q">“little nails,”</span> the + shoemaker of the place. An hour and a half’s smart walking took us to + La Ville de Val Louise, our hearts gladdened by the glorious peaks of + Pelvoux shining out without a cloud around them. I renewed + acquaintance with the mayor of <span class="tei tei-q">“La + Ville.”</span> His aspect was original, and his manners were + gracious, but the odour which proceeded from him was dreadful.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Reynaud kindly + undertook to look after the commissariat, and I found to my + annoyance, when we were about to leave, that I had given tacit + consent to a small wine-cask being carried with us, which was a great + nuisance from the commencement. It was excessively awkward to handle; + one man tried to carry it, and then another, and at last it was slung + from one of our bâtons, and was carried by two of us, which gave our + party the appearance of a mechanical diagram to illustrate the uses + of levers.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At <span class= + "tei tei-q">“La Ville”</span> the Val Louise splits into two + branches—the Val d’Entraigues on the left and the Vallon d’Alefred + (or Ailefroide) on the right; our route was up the latter, and we + moved steadily forwards to the village of La Pisse, where Pierre + Sémiond lived, who <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page21">[pg + 21]</span><a name="Pg021" id="Pg021" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>was + reputed to know more about the Pelvoux than any other man. He looked + an honest fellow, but unfortunately he was ill and could not come. He + recommended his brother, an aged creature, whose furrowed and + wrinkled face hardly seemed to announce the man we wanted; but having + no choice, we engaged him and again set forth. Walnut and a great + variety of other trees gave shadow to our path and fresh vigour to + our limbs; while below, in a sublime gorge, thundered the torrent, + whose waters took their rise from the snows we hoped to tread on the + morrow.</p><a name="fig18" id="fig18" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus044.png" alt= + "Illustration: The Grand Pelvoux de Val Louise" title= + "THE GRAND PELVOUX DE VAL LOUISE." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE GRAND PELVOUX DE VAL LOUISE. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Pelvoux could + not be seen at La Ville, owing to a high intervening ridge; we were + now moving along the foot of this to get to the châlets of Alefred, + or, as they are sometimes called, Aléfroide, where the mountain + actually commences. From these châlets the subordinate, but more + proximate, peaks appear considerably higher than the loftier ones + behind, and sometimes completely conceal them. But the whole height + of the peak, which in these valleys goes under the name of the + <span class="tei tei-q">“Grand Pelvoux,”</span> is seen at one glance + from its summit to its base, six or seven thousand feet of nearly + perpendicular cliffs.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The châlets of + Alefred are a cluster of miserable wooden huts <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page22">[pg 22]</span><a name="Pg022" id="Pg022" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>at the foot of the Grand Pelvoux, and are + close to the junction of the streams which descend from the glacier + de Sapenière (or du Selé) on the left, and the glaciers Blanc and + Noir on the right. We rested a minute to purchase some butter and + milk, and Sémiond picked up a disreputable-looking lad to assist in + carrying, pushing, and otherwise moving the wine-cask.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Our route now + turned sharply to the left, and all were glad that the day was + drawing to a close, so that we had the shadows from the mountains. A + more frightful and desolate valley it is scarcely possible to + imagine; it contains miles of boulders, débris, stones, sand, and + mud; few trees, and they placed so high as to be almost out of sight; + not a soul inhabits it; no birds are in the air, no fish in its + waters; the mountain is too steep for the chamois, its slopes too + inhospitable for the marmot, the whole too repulsive for the eagle. + Not a living thing did we see in this sterile and savage valley + during four days, except some few poor goats which had been driven + there against their will.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was a scene in + keeping with the diabolical deed perpetrated here about four hundred + years ago—the murder of the Vaudois of Val Louise, in the cavern + which was now in sight, though high above us. Their story is very + sad. Peaceful and industrious, for more than three centuries they had + inhabited these retired valleys in tranquil obscurity. The + Archbishops of Embrun endeavoured, though with little success, to get + them within the pale of their church. Their efforts were aided by + others, who commenced by imprisonments and torture,<a id="noteref_21" + name="noteref_21" href="#note_21"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">21</span></span></a> and at + last adopted the method of burning them by hundreds at the + stake.<a id="noteref_22" name="noteref_22" href= + "#note_22"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">22</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In the year 1488, + Albert Cattanée, Archdeacon of Cremona and <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page23">[pg 23]</span><a name="Pg023" id="Pg023" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>legate of Pope Innocent VIII., would have + anticipated the barbarities which at a later date roused the + indignation of Milton and the fears of Cromwell;<a id="noteref_23" + name="noteref_23" href="#note_23"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">23</span></span></a> but, + driven everywhere back by the Waldenses of Piedmont, he left their + valleys and crossed the Mont Genèvre to attack the weaker and more + thinly populated valleys of the Vaudois in Dauphiné. At the head of + an army which is said to have been composed of vagabonds, robbers, + and assassins (who had been tempted to his banner by promises of + absolution beforehand, of being set free from the obligation of vows + which they might have made, and by the confirmation of property to + them which they might have wrongfully acquired), as well as regular + troops, Cattanée poured down the valley of the Durance. The + inhabitants of the Val Louise fled before a host that was ten times + their number, and took up their abode in this cavern, where they had + collected provisions sufficient for two years. But intolerance is + ever painstaking; their retreat was discovered. Cattanée had a + captain who combined the resources of a Herod to the cruelty of a + Pelissier, and, lowering his men by ropes, fired piles of brushwood + at the entrance to the cavern, suffocated the majority, and slew the + remainder. The Vaudois were relentlessly exterminated, without + distinction of age or sex. More than three thousand persons, it is + said, perished in this frightful massacre; the growth of three + hundred and fifty years was destroyed at one blow, and the valley was + completely depopulated. Louis XII. caused it to be re-peopled, and, + after another three centuries and a half, behold the result—a race of + monkeys.<a id="noteref_24" name="noteref_24" href= + "#note_24"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">24</span></span></a></p><span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page24">[pg 24]</span><a name="Pg024" id="Pg024" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We rested a little + at a small spring, and then hastened onwards till we nearly arrived + at the foot of the Sapenière glacier, when Sémiond said we must turn + to the right, up the slopes. This we did, and clambered for + half-an-hour through scattered firs and fallen boulders. Then evening + began to close in rapidly, and it was time to look for a + resting-place. There was no difficulty in getting one, for all around + there was a chaotic assemblage of rocks. We selected the under side + of a boulder which was more than fifty feet long by twenty high, + cleared out the rubbish, and then collected wood for a fire.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I have a pleasant + recollection of that camp-fire. The wine-cask had got through all its + troubles; it was tapped, and the Frenchmen seemed to derive some + consolation from its execrable contents. Reynaud chanted scraps of + French songs, and each contributed his share of joke, story, or + verse. The weather was perfect, and our prospects for the morrow were + good. My companions’ joy culminated when a packet of red <a name= + "corr024" id="corr024" class="tei tei-anchor"></a><span class= + "tei tei-corr">fir</span> was thrown into the flames. It hissed and + bubbled for a moment or two, and then broke out into a grand flare. + The effect of the momentary light was magnificent; the mountains all + around were illuminated for a second, and then relapsed into their + solemn gloom. One by one our party dropped off to sleep, and at last + I got into my blanket-bag. It was hardly necessary, for although we + were at a height of at least 7000 feet, the minimum temperature was + above 40° Fahrenheit.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We roused at + three, and made a start at half-past four. Giraud had been engaged as + far as this rock only, but as he wished to go on, we allowed him to + accompany us. We mounted the slopes and quickly got above the trees, + then had a couple of hours’ clambering over bits of precipitous rock + and banks of débris, and, at a quarter to seven, got to a narrow + glacier—Clos de l’Homme—which streamed out of the plateau on the + summit, <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page25">[pg 25]</span><a name= + "Pg025" id="Pg025" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and nearly reached the + glacier de Sapenière. We worked as much as possible to the right, in + hopes that we should not have to cross it, but were continually + driven back, and at last we found that over we must go. Old Sémiond + had a strong objection to the ice, and made explorations on his own + account to endeavour to avoid it; but Reynaud and I preferred to + cross it, and Giraud stuck to us. It was narrow—in fact, one could + throw a stone across—and it was easily mounted on the side; but in + the centre swelled into a steep dome, up which we were obliged to + cut. Giraud stepped forward and said he should like to try his hand, + and having got hold of the axe, would not give it up; and here, as + well as afterwards when it was necessary to cross the gullies filled + with hard snow, which abound on the higher part of the mountain, he + did all the work, and did it admirably.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Old Sémiond of + course came after us when we got across. We then zigzagged up some + snow-slopes, and shortly afterwards commenced to ascend the + interminable array of buttresses which are the great peculiarity of + the Pelvoux.<a id="noteref_25" name="noteref_25" href= + "#note_25"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">25</span></span></a> They + were very steep in many places, yet on the whole afforded good hold, + and no climbing should be called difficult which does that. Gullies + abounded among them, sometimes of great length and depth. + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">They</span></span> were frequently rotten, and + would have been difficult for a single man to pass. The uppermost men + were continually abused for dislodging rocks and for harpooning those + below with their bâtons. However, without these incidents the + climbing would have been dull—they helped to break the monotony.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We went up + chimneys and gullies by the hour together, and always seemed to be + coming to something, although we never got to it. The outline sketch + will help to explain the situation. We stood at the foot of a great + buttress—perhaps about 200 feet high—and looked up. It did not go to + a point as in the diagram, because we could not see the top; although + we felt convinced <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page26">[pg + 26]</span><a name="Pg026" id="Pg026" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>that + behind the fringe of pinnacles we did see there was a top, and that + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">it</span></span> was the edge of the plateau we + so much desired to attain. Up we mounted, and reached the pinnacles; + but, lo! another set was seen,—and another,—and yet more—till at last + we reached the top, and found it was only a buttress, and that we + must descend 40 or 50 feet before we could commence to mount again. + When this operation had been performed a few dozen times, it began to + be wearisome, especially as we were in the dark as to our + whereabouts. Sémiond, however, encouraged us, and said he knew we + were on the right route,—so away we went once more.</p><a name= + "fig19" id="fig19" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus049.png" alt= + "Illustration: Buttresses of Mont Pelvoux" title= + "BUTTRESSES OF MONT PELVOUX." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + BUTTRESSES OF MONT PELVOUX. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was now nearly + mid-day, and we seemed no nearer the summit of the Pelvoux than when + we started. At last we all joined together and held a council. + <span class="tei tei-q">“Sémiond, old friend, do you know where we + are now?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Oh yes, perfectly, to a + yard and a half.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Well, then, how + much are we below this plateau?”</span> He affirmed we were not + half-an-hour from the edge of the snow. <span class="tei tei-q">“Very + good; let us proceed.”</span> Half-an-hour passed, and then another, + but we were still in the same state,—pinnacles, buttresses, and + gullies were in profusion, but the plateau was not in sight. So we + called him again—for he had been staring about latterly, as if in + doubt—and repeated the question. <span class="tei tei-q">“How far + below are we now?”</span> Well, he thought it might be half-an-hour + more. <span class="tei tei-q">“But you said that just now; are you + sure we are going right?”</span> Yes, he believed we were. Believed! + that would not do. <span class="tei tei-q">“Are you sure we are going + right for the Pic des Arcines?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Pic + des Arcines!”</span> he ejaculated in astonishment, as if he had + heard the words for the first time. <span class="tei tei-q">“Pic des + Arcines; no! but for the pyramid, the celebrated pyramid he had + helped the great Capitaine Durand,”</span> &c.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Here was a fix;—we + had been talking about it to him for a <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page27">[pg 27]</span><a name="Pg027" id="Pg027" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>whole day, and now he confessed he knew nothing + about it. I turned to Reynaud, who seemed thunderstruck. <span class= + "tei tei-q">“What did he suggest?”</span> He shrugged his shoulders. + <span class="tei tei-q">“Well,”</span> we said, after explaining our + minds pretty freely to Sémiond, <span class="tei tei-q">“the sooner + we turn back the better, for we have no wish to see your + pyramid.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We halted for an + hour, and then commenced the descent. It took us nearly seven hours + to come down to our rock; but I paid no heed to the distance, and do + not remember anything about it. When we got down we made a discovery + which affected us as much as the footprint in the sand did Robinson + Crusoe: a blue silk veil lay by our fireside. There was but one + explanation,—Macdonald had arrived; but where was he? We soon packed + our baggage, and tramped in the dusk, through the stony desert, to + Alefred, where we arrived about half-past nine. <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Where is the Englishman?”</span> was the first question. + He was gone to sleep at La Ville.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We passed that + night in a hay-loft, and in the morning, after settling with Sémiond, + posted down to catch Macdonald. We had already determined on the plan + of operation, which was to get him to join us, return, and be + independent of all guides, simply taking the best man we could get as + a porter. I set my heart on Giraud,—a good fellow, with no pretence, + although in every respect up to the work. We were disappointed; he + was obliged to go to Briançon.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The walk soon + became exciting. The natives inquired the result of our expedition, + and common civility obliged us to stop. But I was afraid of losing my + man, for it was said he would wait only till ten o’clock, and that + time was near at hand. At last I dashed over the bridge,—time from + Alefred an hour and a quarter. A cantonnier stopped me, saying that + the Englishman had just started for La Bessée. I rushed after him, + turned angle after angle of the road, but could not see him; at last, + as I came round a corner, he was also just turning another, going + very fast. I <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page28">[pg + 28]</span><a name="Pg028" id="Pg028" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>shouted, and luckily he heard me. We returned, + reprovisioned ourselves at La Ville, and the same evening saw us + passing our first rock, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">en route</span></span> for another. I have said + we determined to take no guide; but, on passing La Pisse, old Sémiond + turned out and offered his services. He went well, in spite of his + years and disregard of truth. <span class="tei tei-q">“Why not take + him?”</span> said my friend. So we offered him a fifth of his + previous pay, and in a few seconds he closed with the offer. This + time he came in an inferior position,—we were to lead, he to follow. + Our second follower was a youth of twenty-seven years, who was not + all that could be desired. He drank Reynaud’s wine, smoked our + cigars, and quietly secreted the provisions when we were nearly + starving. Discovery of his proceedings did not at all disconcert him, + and he finished up by getting several items added to our bill at La + Ville, which, not a little to his disgust, we disallowed.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This night we + fixed our camp high above the tree-line, and indulged ourselves in + the healthy employment of carrying our fuel up to it. The present + rock was not so comfortable as the first, and, before we could settle + down, we were obliged to turn out a large mass which was in the way. + It was very obstinate, but moved at length; slowly and gently at + first, then faster and faster, at last taking great jumps in the air, + striking a stream of fire at every touch, which shone out brightly as + it entered the gloomy valley below, and long after it was out of + sight, we heard it bounding downwards, and then settle with a subdued + crash on the glacier beneath. As we turned back from this curious + sight, Reynaud asked if we had ever seen a torrent on fire, and told + us that in the spring the Durance, swollen by the melting of the + snow, sometimes brings down so many rocks that, where it passes + through a narrow gorge at La Bessée, no water whatever is seen, but + only boulders rolling over and over, grinding each other into powder, + and striking so many sparks that the stream looks as if it were on + fire.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We had another + merry evening with nothing to mar it; the <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page29">[pg 29]</span><a name="Pg029" id="Pg029" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>weather was perfect, and we lay backward in + luxurious repose, looking at the sky spangled with its ten thousand + brilliant lights.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-lg" style= + "margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-l" style= + "text-align: left; margin-left: 10.00em"> + ... <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left">“The ranges + stood</span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + Transfigured in the silver flood, + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + Their snows were flashing cold and keen, + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + Dead white, save where some sharp ravine + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + Took shadow, or the sombre green + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + Of hemlocks turned to pitchy black, + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left">Against the + whiteness at their back.”</span><a id="noteref_26" name= + "noteref_26" href="#note_26"><span class="tei tei-noteref" style= + "text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">26</span></span></a> + </div> + </div><a name="fig20" id="fig20" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus052.png" alt= + "Illustration: Portrait of the late R. J. S. Macdonald" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Macdonald related + his experiences over the café noir. He had travelled day and night + for several days in order to join us, but had failed to find our + first bivouac, and had camped a few hundred yards from us under + another rock, higher up the mountain. The next morning he discerned + us going along a ridge at a great height above him, and as it was + useless to endeavour to overtake us, he lay down and watched with a + heavy heart until we had turned the corner of a buttress, and + vanished out of sight.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Nothing but the + heavy breathing of our already sound asleep comrades broke the solemn + stillness of the night. It was a silence to be felt. Nothing? Hark! + what is that dull booming sound above us? Is that nothing? There it + is again, plainer—on it comes, nearer, clearer; ’tis a crag escaped + from the heights above! What a fearful crash! We jump to our feet. + Down it comes with awful fury; what power can withstand its violence? + Dancing, leaping, flying; dashing against others; roaring as it + descends. Ah, it has passed! No; there it is again, and we hold our + breath, as, with resistless force and explosions like artillery, it + darts past, with an avalanche of shattered fragments trailing in its + rear! ’Tis <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page30">[pg + 30]</span><a name="Pg030" id="Pg030" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>gone, + and we breathe more freely as we hear the finale on the glacier + below.<a id="noteref_27" name="noteref_27" href= + "#note_27"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">27</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We retired at + last, but I was too excited to sleep. At a quarter-past four every + man once more shouldered his pack and started. This time we agreed to + keep more to the right, to see if it were not possible to get to the + plateau without losing any time by crossing the glacier. To describe + our route would be to repeat what has been said before. We mounted + steadily for an hour and a half, sometimes walking, though more + frequently climbing, and then found, after all, that it was necessary + to cross the glacier. The part on which we struck came down a very + steep slope, and was much crevassed. The word crevassed hardly + expresses its appearance—it was a mass of formidable séracs. We + found, however, more difficulty in getting on than across it; and, + thanks to the rope, it was passed in safety. Then the interminable + buttresses began again. Hour after hour we proceeded upwards, + frequently at fault, and obliged to descend. The ridge behind us had + sunk long ago, and we looked over it, and all others, till our eyes + rested on the majestic Viso. Hour after hour passed, and monotony was + the order of the day. When twelve o’clock came we lunched, and + contemplated the scene with satisfaction; all the summits in sight, + with the single exception of the Viso, had given in, and we looked + over an immense expanse—a perfect sea of peaks and snow-fields. Still + the pinnacles rose above us, and opinions were freely uttered that we + should see no summit of Pelvoux that day. Old Sémiond had become a + perfect bore to all; whenever one rested for a moment to look about, + he would say, with a complacent chuckle, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Don’t be afraid, follow me.”</span> We came at last to a + very bad piece, rotten and steep, and no hold. Here Reynaud and + Macdonald confessed to being tired, and talked of going to sleep. A + way was discovered out of the difficulty; then some one called out, + <span class="tei tei-q">“Look at the Viso!”</span> and we saw that we + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page31">[pg 31]</span><a name="Pg031" + id="Pg031" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>almost looked over it. We + worked away with redoubled energy, and at length caught sight of the + head of the glacier as it streamed out of the plateau. This gave us + fresh hopes; we were not deceived; and with a simultaneous shout we + greeted the appearance of our long-wished-for snows. A large crevasse + separated us from them; but a bridge was found; we tied ourselves in + line, and moved safely over it. Directly we got across, there rose + before us a fine snow-capped peak. Old Sémiond cried, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“The pyramid! I see the pyramid!”</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Where, Sémiond, where?”</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q">“There; on the top of that peak.”</span></p><a name= + "fig21" id="fig21" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus054.png" alt= + "Illustration: Outline to show route up Mont Pelvoux" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">There, sure + enough, was the cairn he had helped to erect more than thirty years + before. Where was the Pic des Arcines which we were to see? It was + nowhere visible—there was only a great expanse of snow, bordered by + three lower peaks. Somewhat sadly we moved towards the pyramid, + sighing that there was no other to conquer; but hardly had we gone + two hundred paces, before there rose a superb white cone on the left, + which had been hidden before by a slope of snow. We shouted, + <span class="tei tei-q">“The Pic des Arcines!”</span> and + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page32">[pg 32]</span><a name="Pg032" + id="Pg032" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>inquired of Sémiond if he knew + whether that peak had been ascended. As for him, he knew nothing, + except that the peak before us was called the pyramid, from the cairn + he had, etc. etc., and that it had not been ascended since. + <span class="tei tei-q">“All right then—face about,”</span> and we + immediately turned at right angles for the cone, the porter making + faint struggles for his beloved pyramid. Our progress was stopped, in + the sixth of a mile, by the edge of the ridge connecting the two + peaks, and we perceived that it curled over in a lovely volute. We + involuntarily retreated. Sémiond, who was last in the line, took the + opportunity to untie himself, and refused to come on; said we were + running dangerous risks, and talked vaguely of crevasses. We tied him + up again, and proceeded. The snow was very soft; we were always + knee-deep, and sometimes floundered in up to the waist; but a + simultaneous jerk before and behind always released one. By this time + we had arrived at the foot of the final peak. The left-hand ridge + seemed easier than that upon which we stood, so we curved round to + get to it. Some rocks peeped out 150 feet below the summit, and up + these we crawled, leaving our porter behind, as he said he was + afraid. I could not resist the temptation, as we went off, to turn + round and beckon him onwards, saying, <span class="tei tei-q">“Don’t + be afraid—follow me,”</span> but he did not answer to the appeal, and + never went to the top. The rocks led to a short ridge of ice—our + plateau on one side, and a nearly vertical precipice on the other. + Macdonald cut up it, and at a quarter to two we stood shaking hands + on the loftiest summit of the conquered Pelvoux.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The day still + continued everything that could be desired, and, far and near, + countless peaks burst into sight, without a cloud to hide them. The + mighty Mont Blanc, full seventy miles away, first caught our eyes, + and then, still farther off, the Monte Rosa group; while, rolling + away to the east, one unknown range after another succeeded in + unveiled splendour; fainter and fainter in tone, but still perfectly + defined, till at last the eye was unable to distinguish sky from + mountain, and they died away in the far-off horizon. <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page33">[pg 33]</span><a name="Pg033" id="Pg033" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>Monte Viso rose up grandly, but it was + less than forty miles away, and we looked over it to a hazy mass we + knew must be the plains of Piedmont. Southwards a blue mist seemed to + indicate the existence of the distant Mediterranean; to the west we + looked over to the mountains of Auvergne. Such was the panorama; a + view extending in nearly every direction for more than one hundred + miles. It was with some difficulty we wrenched our eyes from the more + distant objects to contemplate the nearer ones. Mont Dauphin was very + conspicuous, but La Bessée was not readily perceived. Besides these + places not a habitation could be seen; all was rock, snow, or ice; + and, large as we knew were the snow-fields of Dauphiné, we were + surprised to find that they very far surpassed our most ardent + imagination. Nearly in a line between us and the Viso, immediately to + the south of Chateau Queyras, was a splendid group of mountains of + great height. More to the south an unknown peak seemed still higher; + while close to us we were astonished to discover that there was a + mountain which appeared even higher than that on which we stood. At + least this was my opinion; Macdonald thought that it was not so high, + and Reynaud that it was much about the same elevation as our own + peak.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This mountain was + distant a couple of miles or so, and was separated from us by a + tremendous abyss, the bottom of which we could not see. On the other + side rose this mighty wall-sided peak, too steep for snow, black as + night, with sharp ridges and pointed summit. We were in complete + ignorance of its whereabouts, for none of us had been on the other + side. We imagined that La Bérarde was in the abyss at our feet, + although it was in reality beyond the other mountain.<a id= + "noteref_28" name="noteref_28" href="#note_28"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">28</span></span></a></p><span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page34">[pg 34]</span><a name="Pg034" id="Pg034" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We left the summit + at last, and descended to the rocks and to our porter, where I boiled + some water, obtained by melting snow. After we had fed, and smoked + our cigars (lighted without difficulty from a common match), we found + it was ten minutes past three, and high time to be off. We dashed, + waded, and tumbled for twenty-five minutes through the snow, and then + began the long descent of the rocks. It was nearly four o’clock, and, + as it would be dark at eight, it was evident that there was no time + to be lost, and we pushed on to the utmost. Nothing remarkable + occurred going down. We kept rather closer to the glacier, and + crossed at the same point as in the morning. Getting <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">off</span></span> it + was like getting <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">on</span></span> it—rather awkward. Old Sémiond + had got over—so had Reynaud; Macdonald came next, but, as he made a + long stretch to get on to a higher mass, he slipped, and would have + been in the bowels of a crevasse in a moment had he not been + tied.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was nearly dark + by the time we had crossed, yet I still hoped that we should be able + to pass the night at our rock. Macdonald was not so sanguine, and he + was right; for at last we found ourselves quite at fault, and + wandered helplessly up and down for an hour, while Reynaud and the + porter indulged in a little mutual abuse. The dreary fact, that, as + we could not get down, we must stay where we were, was now quite + apparent.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We were at least + 10,500 feet high, and if it commenced to rain or snow, as the + gathering clouds and rising wind seemed to threaten, we might be in a + sore plight. We were hungry, having eaten little since 3 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span>, and a + torrent we heard close at hand, but could not discover, aggravated + our thirst. Sémiond endeavoured to get some water from it. Although + he succeeded in doing so, he was wholly unable to return, and we had + to solace him by shouting at intervals through the night.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A more detestable + locality for a night out of doors it is difficult to imagine. There + was not shelter of any kind; it was perfectly exposed to the chilly + wind which began to rise, and it was too steep to promenade. Loose + rubbly stones covered the ground, and <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page35">[pg 35]</span><a name="Pg035" id="Pg035" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>had to be removed before we could sit with any + comfort. This was an advantage, although we hardly thought so at the + time, as it gave us some employment, and, after an hour’s active + exercise of that interesting kind, I obtained a small strip about + nine feet long, on which it was possible to walk. Reynaud was furious + at first, and soundly abused the porter, whose opinion as to the + route down had been followed rather than that of our friend, and at + last settled down to a deep dramatic despair, and wrung his hands + with frantic gesture, as he exclaimed, <span class="tei tei-q">“Oh, + malheur, malheur! Oh misérables!”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Thunder commenced + to growl, and lightning to play among the peaks above, and the wind, + which had brought the temperature down to nearly freezing-point, + began to chill us to the bones. We examined our resources. They were + six and a half cigars, two boxes of vesuvians, one-third of a pint of + brandy-and-water, and half-a-pint of spirits of wine: rather scant + fare for three fellows who had to get through seven hours before + daylight. The spirit-lamp was lighted, and the remaining spirits of + wine, the brandy and some snow, were heated by it. It was a strong + liquor, and we wished for more of it. When it was consumed, Macdonald + endeavoured to dry his socks by the lamp, and then the three lay down + under my plaid to pretend to sleep. Reynaud’s woes were aggravated by + toothache; Macdonald somehow managed to close his eyes.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The longest night + must end, and ours did at last. We got down to our rock in an hour + and a quarter, and found the lad not a little surprised at our + absence. He said he had made a gigantic fire to light us down, and + shouted with all his might; we neither saw the fire nor heard his + shouts. He said we looked a ghastly crew, and no wonder; it was our + fourth night out.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We feasted at our + cave, and performed some very necessary ablutions. The persons of the + natives are infested by certain agile creatures—rapid of motion, + numerous, and voracious. It is dangerous to approach too near, and + one has to study the wind, <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page36">[pg + 36]</span><a name="Pg036" id="Pg036" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>so as + to get on their weather-side. In spite of all such precautions my + unfortunate companion and myself were being rapidly devoured alive. + We only expected a temporary lull of our tortures, for the interiors + of the inns are like the exteriors of the natives, swarming with this + species of animated creation.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is said that + once, when these tormentors were filled with an unanimous desire, an + unsuspecting traveller was dragged bodily from his bed! This needs + confirmation. One word more, and I have done with this vile subject. + We returned from our ablutions, and found the Frenchmen engaged in + conversation. <span class="tei tei-q">“Ah!”</span> said old Sémiond, + <span class="tei tei-q">“as to fleas, I don’t pretend to be different + to anyone else,—<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">I have them</span></span>.”</span> This time he + certainly spoke the truth.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We got down to La + Ville in good time, and luxuriated there for several days; played + many games of bowls with the natives, and were invariably beaten by + them. At last it was necessary to part, and I walked to Abries, by + way of Mont Dauphin and the gorge of the Guil towards Monte Viso, + while Macdonald went to Briançon.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I have not + attempted to conceal that the ascent of Mont Pelvoux is of a rather + monotonous character; the view from its summit can, however, be + confidently recommended. A glance at a map will show that, with the + single exception of the Viso, whose position is unrivalled, it is + better situated than any other mountain of considerable height for + viewing the whole of the Western Alps.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Our discovery that + the peak which is to be called the Pointe des Ecrins was a separate + and distinct mountain from Mont Pelvoux—and not its highest + point—gave us satisfaction, although it was also rather of the nature + of a disappointment.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On our return to + La Bessée we wrongly identified it with the peak which is seen from + thence to the left of the Pelvoux. The two mountains bear a + considerable resemblance to each other, so the mistake is not, + perhaps, unpardonable. Although the latter <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page37">[pg 37]</span><a name="Pg037" id="Pg037" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>mountain is one that is considerably higher than + the Wetterhorn or Monte Viso, it has no name; we called it the Pic + Sans Nom.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It has been + observed by others that it is improbable the French surveyors should + have remained for several days upon the Pic de la Pyramide without + visiting the other and loftier summit. If they did, it is strange + that they did not leave some memorial of their visit. The natives who + accompanied them asserted that they did not pass from one to the + other; we therefore claimed to have made the ascent of the loftiest + point for the first time. The claim, however, cannot be sustained, on + account of the ascent of M. Puiseux. It is a matter of little moment; + the excursion had for us all the interest of a first ascent; and I + look back upon this, my first serious mountain scramble, with more + satisfaction, and with as much pleasure as upon any that is recorded + in this volume.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A few days later, + I left Abries to seek a quiet bundle of hay at Le Chalp—a village + some miles nearer to the Viso. On approaching the place, the odour of + sanctity became distinctly perceptible; and on turning a corner the + cause was manifested—there was the priest of the place, surrounded by + some of his flock. I advanced humbly, hat in hand, but almost before + a word could be said, he broke out with, <span class="tei tei-q">“Who + are you?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“What are you?”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“What do you want?”</span> I endeavoured to + explain. <span class="tei tei-q">“You are a deserter; I know you are + a deserter; go away, you can’t stay here; go to Le Monta, down there; + I won’t have you here,”</span> and he literally drove me away. The + explanation of his strange behaviour was, that Piedmontese soldiers + who were tired of the service had not unfrequently crossed the Col de + la Traversette into the valley, and trouble had arisen from + harbouring them. However, I did not know this at the time, and was + not a little indignant that I, who was marching to the attack, should + be taken for a deserter.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">So I walked away, + and shortly afterwards, as it was getting <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page38">[pg 38]</span><a name="Pg038" id="Pg038" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>dark, encamped in a lovely hole—a cavity or kind + of basin in the earth, with a stream on one side, a rock to windward, + and some broken fir branches close at hand. Nothing could be more + perfect: rock, hole, wood, and water. After making a roaring fire, I + nestled in my blanket bag (an ordinary blanket sewn up double round + the legs, with a piece of elastic riband round the open end), and + slept, but not for long. I was troubled with dreams of the + Inquisition; the tortures were being applied—priests were forcing + fleas down my nostrils and into my eyes—and with red-hot pincers were + taking out bits of flesh, and then cutting off my ears and tickling + the soles of my feet. This was too much; I yelled a great yell and + awoke, to find myself covered with innumerable crawling bodies. They + were ants; I had camped by an ant-hill, and, after making its + inhabitants mad with the fire, had coolly lain down in their + midst.</p><a name="fig22" id="fig22" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus061.png" alt="Illustration: The blanket bag" + title="THE BLANKET BAG." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE BLANKET BAG. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The night was + fine, and as I settled down in more comfortable quarters, a brilliant + meteor sailed across full 60° of the cloudless <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page39">[pg 39]</span><a name="Pg039" id="Pg039" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>sky, leaving a trail of light behind which + lasted for several seconds. It was the herald of a splendid + spectacle. Stars fell by hundreds; and not dimmed by intervening + vapours, they sparkled with greater brightness than Sirius in our + damp climate.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The next morning, + after walking up the valley to examine the Viso, I returned to + Abries, and engaged a man from a neighbouring hamlet, an inveterate + smoker, and thirsty in proportion, whose pipe never left his mouth + except to allow him to drink. We returned up the valley together, and + slept in a hut of a shepherd, whose yearly wage was almost as small + as that of the herdsman spoken of in Hyperion by Longfellow; and the + next morning, in his company, proceeded to the summit of the pass + which I had crossed in 1860. We were baffled in our attempt to get + closer to the mountain. A deep notch<a id="noteref_29" name= + "noteref_29" href="#note_29"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">29</span></span></a> with + precipitous cliffs cut us off from it. The snow-slope, too, which + existed in the preceding year on the Piedmontese side of the pass, + was now wanting, and we were unable to descend the rocks which lay + beneath. A fortnight afterwards the mountain was ascended for the + first time by Messrs. Mathews and Jacomb, with the two Croz’s of + Chamounix. Their attempt was made from the <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">southern</span></span> + side, and the ascent, which was formerly considered a thing totally + impossible, has become one of the most common and favourite + excursions of the district.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The night of the + 14th of August found me at St. Veran, a village made famous by Neff, + but in no other respect remarkable, saving that it is one of the + highest in Europe. The poor inn gave the impression of great poverty. + There was no meat, no bread, <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page40">[pg + 40]</span><a name="Pg040" id="Pg040" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>no + butter or cheese; almost the only things that could be obtained were + eggs. The manners of the natives were primitive. The woman of the + inn, without the least sense of impropriety, stayed in the room until + I was fairly in bed, and her bill for supper, bed, and breakfast, + amounted to one and sevenpence.</p><a name="fig23" id="fig23" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus063.png" alt= + "Illustration: Natural pillar near Molines" title= + "NATURAL PILLAR NEAR MOLINES." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + NATURAL PILLAR NEAR MOLINES. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In this + neighbourhood, and indeed all round about the Viso, the chamois still + remain in considerable numbers. They said at St. Veran that six had + been seen from the village on the day I was there, and the innkeeper + declared that he had seen fifty together in the previous week! I + myself saw in this and in the previous season several small companies + round about the Viso. It is perhaps as favourable a district as any + in the Alps for a sportsman who <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page41">[pg 41]</span><a name="Pg041" id="Pg041" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>wishes to hunt the chamois, as the ground over + which they wander is by no means of excessive difficulty.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The next day I + descended the valley to Ville Vieille, and passed near the village of + Molines, but on the opposite side of the valley, a remarkable natural + pillar, in form not unlike a champagne bottle, about sixty feet high, + which had been produced by the action of the weather, and, in all + probability, chiefly by rain. These natural pillars are among the + most remarkable examples of the potent effects produced by the + long-continued action of quiet-working forces. They are found in + several other places in the Alps, as well as elsewhere.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The village of + Ville Vieille boasts of an inn with the sign of the Elephant; which, + in the opinion of local amateurs, is a proof that Hannibal passed + through the gorge of the Guil. I remember the place, because its + bread, being only a month old, was unusually soft, and, for the first + time during ten days, it was possible to eat some, without first of + all chopping it into small pieces and soaking it in hot water, which + produced a slimy paste on the outside, but left a hard untouched + kernel.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The same day I + crossed the Col Isoard to Briançon. It was the 15th of August, and + all the world was <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">en fête</span></span>; sounds of revelry + proceeded from the houses of Servières as I passed over the bridge + upon which the pyrrhic dance is annually performed,<a id="noteref_30" + name="noteref_30" href="#note_30"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">30</span></span></a> and + natives in all degrees of inebriation staggered about the paths. It + was late before the lights of the great fortress came into sight; but + unchallenged I passed through the gates, and once more sought shelter + under the roof of the Hotel de l’Ours.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page42">[pg 42]</span><a name="Pg042" + id="Pg042" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc11" id= + "toc11"></a> <a name="pdf12" id="pdf12"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER III.</span></h1> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">MY FIRST SCRAMBLE ON THE + MATTERHORN.</span></h1> + + <div class="tei tei-epigraph" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 9.00em"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 0.90em"><span class="tei tei-q" + style="text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">What power + must have been required to shatter and to sweep away the missing + parts of this pyramid; for we do not see it surrounded by heaps of + fragments; one only sees other peaks—themselves rooted to the + ground—whose sides, equally rent, indicate an immense mass of + débris, of which we do not see any trace in the neighbourhood. + Doubtless this is that débris which, in the form of pebbles, + boulders, and sand, covers our valleys and our + plains.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span><br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">De + Saussure.</span></span></p> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Two summits + amongst those in the Alps which yet remained virgin had especially + excited my admiration. One of these had been attacked numberless + times by the best mountaineers without success; the other, surrounded + by traditional inaccessibility, was almost untouched. These mountains + were the Weisshorn and the Matterhorn.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">After visiting the + great tunnel of the Alps in 1861, I wandered for ten days in the + neighbouring valleys, intending, presently, to attempt the ascent of + these two peaks. Rumours were floating about that the former had been + conquered, and that the latter was shortly to be attacked, and they + were confirmed on arrival at Chatillon, at the entrance of the Val + Tournanche. My interest in the Weisshorn consequently abated, but it + was raised to the highest pitch on hearing that Professor Tyndall was + at Breil, and intending to try to crown his first victory by another + and still greater one.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Up to this time my + experience with guides had not been fortunate, and I was inclined, + improperly, to rate them at a low value. They represented to me + pointers out of paths, and large consumers of meat and drink, but + little more; and, with the recollection of Mont Pelvoux, I should + have greatly preferred the <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page43">[pg + 43]</span><a name="Pg043" id="Pg043" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>company of a couple of my countrymen to any + number of guides. In answer to inquiries at Chatillon, a series of + men came forward, whose faces expressed malice, pride, envy, hatred, + and roguery of every description, but who seemed to be destitute of + all good qualities. The arrival of two gentlemen with a guide, who + they represented was the embodiment of every virtue, and exactly the + man for the Matterhorn, rendered it unnecessary to engage any of the + others. My new guide in <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">physique</span></span> was a combination of + Chang and Anak; and although in acquiring him I did not obtain + exactly what was wanted, his late employers did exactly what + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">they</span></span> wanted, for I obtained the + responsibility, without knowledge, of paying his back fare, which + must have been a relief at once to their minds and to their + purses.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When walking up + towards Breil,<a id="noteref_31" name="noteref_31" href= + "#note_31"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">31</span></span></a> we + inquired for another man of all the knowing ones, and they, with one + voice, proclaimed that Jean-Antoine Carrel, of the village of Val + Tournanche, was the cock of his valley. We sought, of course, for + Carrel; and found him a well-made, resolute-looking fellow, with a + certain defiant air which was rather taking. Yes, he would go. Twenty + francs a day, whatever was the result, was his price. I assented. But + I must take his comrade. <span class="tei tei-q">“Why so?”</span> Oh, + it was absolutely impossible to get along without another man. As he + said this, an evil countenance came forth out of the darkness and + proclaimed itself the comrade. I demurred, the negotiations broke + off, and we went up to Breil. This place will be frequently mentioned + in subsequent chapters, and was in full view of the extraordinary + peak, the ascent of which we were about to attempt.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is unnecessary + to enter into a minute description of the Matterhorn, after all that + has been written about that famous mountain. Those by whom this book + is likely to be read will know that that peak is nearly 15,000 feet + high, and that it rises abruptly, by a series of cliffs which may + properly be termed preci<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page44">[pg + 44]</span><a name="Pg044" id="Pg044" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>pices, a clear 5000 feet above the glaciers + which surround its base. They will know too that it was the last + great Alpine peak which remained unscaled,—less on account of the + difficulty of doing so, than from the terror inspired by its + invincible appearance. There seemed to be a <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">cordon</span></span> + drawn around it, up to which one might go, but no farther. Within + that invisible line gins and effreets were supposed to exist—the + Wandering Jew and the spirits of the damned. The superstitious + natives in the surrounding valleys (many of whom still firmly believe + it to be not only the highest mountain in the Alps, but in the world) + spoke of a ruined city on its summit wherein the spirits dwelt; and + if you laughed, they gravely shook their heads; told you to look + yourself to see the castles and the walls, and warned one against a + rash approach, lest the infuriate demons from their impregnable + heights might hurl down vengeance for one’s derision. Such were the + traditions of the natives. Stronger minds felt the influence of the + wonderful form, and men who ordinarily spoke or wrote like rational + beings, when they came under its power seemed to quit their senses, + and ranted, and rhapsodised, losing for a time all common forms of + speech. Even the sober De Saussure was moved to enthusiasm when he + saw the mountain, and—inspired by the spectacle—he anticipated the + speculations of modern geologists, in the striking sentences which + are placed at the head of this chapter.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Matterhorn + looks equally imposing from whatever side it is seen; it never seems + commonplace; and in this respect, and in regard to the impression it + makes upon spectators, it stands almost alone amongst mountains. It + has no rivals in the Alps, and but few in the world.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The seven or eight + thousand feet which compose the actual peak have several well-marked + ridges and numerous others.<a id="noteref_32" name="noteref_32" href= + "#note_32"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">32</span></span></a> The most + continuous is that which leads towards the north-east; the summit is + at its higher, and the little peak, called the Hörnli, is at its + lower end. Another one that is well-pronounced descends from + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page45">[pg 45]</span><a name="Pg045" + id="Pg045" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the summit to the ridge called + the Furgen Grat. The slope of the mountain that is between these two + ridges will be referred to as the eastern face. A third, somewhat + less continuous than the others, descends in a south-westerly + direction, and the portion of the mountain that is seen from Breil is + confined to that which is comprised between this and the second + ridge. This section is not composed, like that between the first and + second ridge, of one grand face; but it is broken up into a series of + huge precipices, spotted with snow-slopes, and streaked with + snow-gullies. The other half of the mountain, facing the Z’Mutt + glacier, is not capable of equally simple definition. There are + precipices, apparent, but not actual; there are precipices absolutely + perpendicular; there are precipices overhanging: there are glaciers, + and there are hanging glaciers; there are glaciers which tumble great + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">séracs</span></span> over greater cliffs, whose + débris, subsequently consolidated, becomes glacier again; there are + ridges split by the frost, and washed by the rain and melted snow + into towers and spires: while, everywhere, there are ceaseless sounds + of action, telling that the causes are still in operation which have + been at work since the world began; reducing the mighty mass to + atoms, and effecting its degradation.</p><a name="plate02" id= + "plate02" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus068a.png" alt= + "Illustration: The Matterhorn from the North-East" title= + "THE MATTERHORN FROM THE NORTH-EAST." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE MATTERHORN FROM THE NORTH-EAST. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus068b.png" alt= + "Illustration: The Matterhorn from the summit of the Theodule Pass" + title= + "THE MATTERHORN FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE THEODULE PASS. (10,899 FEET)" /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE MATTERHORN FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE THEODULE PASS. (10,899 + FEET) + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Most tourists + obtain their first view of the mountain either from the valley of + Zermatt or from that of Tournanche. From the former direction the + base of the mountain is seen at its narrowest, and its ridges and + faces seem to be of prodigious steepness. The tourist toils up the + valley, looking frequently for the great sight which is to reward his + pains, without seeing it (for the mountain is first perceived in that + direction about a mile to the north of Zermatt), when, all at once, + as he turns a rocky corner of the path, it comes into view; not, + however, where it is expected; the face has to be raised up to look + at it; it seems overhead. Although this is the impression, the fact + is that the summit of the Matterhorn from this point makes an angle + with the eye of less than 16º, while the Dom, from the same place, + makes a larger angle, but is passed by unobserved. So little can + dependence be placed on unaided vision. <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page46">[pg 46]</span><a name="Pg046" id="Pg046" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>The view of the mountain from Breil, in the Val + Tournanche, is not less striking than that on the other side; but, + usually, it makes less impression, because the spectator grows + accustomed to the sight while coming up or down the valley. From this + direction the mountain is seen to be broken up into a series of + pyramidal wedge-shaped masses; on the other side it is remarkable for + the large, unbroken extent of cliffs that it presents, and for the + simplicity of its outline. It was natural to suppose that a way would + more readily be found to the summit on a side thus broken up than in + any other direction. The eastern face, fronting Zermatt, seemed one + smooth, inaccessible cliff, from summit to base. The ghastly + precipices which face the Z’Mutt glacier forbade any attempt in + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">that</span></span> direction. There remained + only the side of Val Tournanche; and it will be found that nearly all + the earliest attempts to ascend the mountain were made upon the + southern side.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The first efforts + to ascend the Matterhorn of which I have heard, were made by the + guides, or rather by the chasseurs, of Val Tournanche.<a id= + "noteref_33" name="noteref_33" href="#note_33"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">33</span></span></a> These + attempts were made in the years 1858-9, from the direction of Breil, + and the highest point that was attained was perhaps as far as the + place which is now called the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Chimney”</span> (cheminée), a height of about 12,650 + feet. Those who were concerned in these expeditions were Jean-Antoine + Carrel, Jean Jacques Carrel, Victor Carrel, the Abbé Gorret, and + Gabrielle Maquignaz. I have been unable to obtain any further details + respecting them.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The next attempt + was a remarkable one; and of it, too, there is no published account. + It was made by the Messrs. Alfred, Charles, and Sandbach Parker, of + Liverpool, in July 1860. These gentlemen, <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">without + guides</span></span>, endeavoured to storm the citadel by attacking + its eastern face<a id="noteref_34" name="noteref_34" href= + "#note_34"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">34</span></span></a>—that to + which reference was just now made as a smooth, impracticable cliff. + Mr. Sandbach Parker <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page47">[pg + 47]</span><a name="Pg047" id="Pg047" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>informs me that he and his brothers went along + the ridge between the Hörnli and the peak until they came to the + point where the ascending angle is considerably increased. This place + is marked on Dufour’s map of Switzerland 3298 mètres (10,820 feet). + They were then obliged to bear a little to the left to get on to the + face of the mountain, and, afterwards, they turned to the right, and + ascended about 700 feet farther, keeping as nearly as was practicable + to the crest of the ridge, but, occasionally, bearing a little to the + left—that is, more on to the face of the mountain. The brothers + started from Zermatt, and did not sleep out. Clouds, a high wind, and + want of time, were the causes which prevented these daring gentlemen + from going farther. Thus, their highest point was under 12,000 + feet.</p><a name="plate03" id="plate03" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus072.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: The Matterhorn from near the summit of the Theodule Pass" + title= + "THE MATTERHORN FROM NEAR THE SUMMIT OF THE THEODULE PASS." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE MATTERHORN FROM NEAR THE SUMMIT OF THE THEODULE PASS. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The third attempt + upon the mountain was made towards the end of August 1860, by Mr. + Vaughan Hawkins,<a id="noteref_35" name="noteref_35" href= + "#note_35"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">35</span></span></a> from the + side of the Val Tournanche. A vivid account of his expedition has + been published by him in <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Vacation Tourists</span></span>;<a id= + "noteref_36" name="noteref_36" href="#note_36"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">36</span></span></a> and it + has been referred to several times by Professor Tyndall in the + numerous papers he has contributed to Alpine literature. I will + dismiss it, therefore, as briefly as possible.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Mr. Hawkins had + inspected the mountain in 1859, with the guide J. J. Bennen, and he + had formed the opinion that the south-west ridge<a id="noteref_37" + name="noteref_37" href="#note_37"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">37</span></span></a> would + lead to the summit. He engaged J. Jacques Carrel, who was concerned + in the first attempts, and, accompanied by Bennen (and by Professor + Tyndall, whom he had invited to take part in the expedition), he + started for the gap between the little and the great peak.<a id= + "noteref_38" name="noteref_38" href="#note_38"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">38</span></span></a></p><span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page48">[pg 48]</span><a name="Pg048" id="Pg048" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="fig24" id="fig24" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus075.png" alt="Illustration: J. J. Bennen" + title="J. J. BENNEN (1862)." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + J. J. BENNEN (1862). + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Bennen was a guide + who was beginning to be talked about. During the chief part of his + brief career he was in the service of Wellig, the landlord of the inn + on the Æggischhorn, and was hired out by him to tourists. Although + his experience was limited, he had acquired a good reputation; and + his book of certificates, which is lying before me,<a id="noteref_39" + name="noteref_39" href="#note_39"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">39</span></span></a> shows + that he was highly esteemed by his employers. A good-looking man, + with courteous, gentlemanly manners, skilful and bold, he might, by + this time, have taken a front place amongst guides if he had only + been endowed with more prudence. He perished miserably, in the spring + of 1864, not far from his home, on a mountain called the Haut de Cry, + in the Valais.<a id="noteref_40" name="noteref_40" href= + "#note_40"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">40</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Mr. Hawkins’ + party, led by Bennen, climbed the rocks abutting against the Couloir + du Lion, on its south side, and attained the Col du Lion, although + not without difficulty. They then followed the south-west ridge, + passed the place at which the <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page49">[pg 49]</span><a name="Pg049" id="Pg049" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>earliest explorers had turned back (the + Chimney),<a id="noteref_41" name="noteref_41" href= + "#note_41"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">41</span></span></a> and + ascended about 300 feet more. Mr. Hawkins and J. J. Carrel then + stopped, but Bennen and Professor Tyndall mounted a few feet higher. + They retreated, however, in less than half-an-hour, finding that + there was too little time; and, descending to the Col by the same + route as they had followed on the ascent, proceeded thence to Breil, + down the Couloir instead of by the rocks. The point at which Mr. + Hawkins stopped is easily identified from his description. Its height + is 12,992 feet above the sea. I think that Bennen and Tyndall could + not have ascended more than 50 or 60 feet beyond this in the few + minutes they were absent from the others, as they were upon one of + the most difficult parts of the mountain. This party therefore + accomplished an advance of about 350 or 400 feet.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Mr. Hawkins did + not, as far as I know, make another attempt; and the next was made by + the Messrs. Parker, in July 1861. They again started from Zermatt; + followed the route they had struck out on the previous year, and got + a little higher than before; but they were defeated by want of time, + shortly afterwards left Zermatt on account of bad weather, and did + not again renew their attempts. Mr. Parker says—<span class= + "tei tei-q">“In neither case did we go as high as we could. At the + point where we turned we saw our way for a few hundred feet farther; + but, beyond that, the difficulties seemed to increase.”</span> I am + informed that both attempts should be considered as excursions + undertaken with the view of ascertaining whether there was any + encouragement to make a more deliberate attack on the north-east + side.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">My guide and I + arrived at Breil on the 28th of August 1861, and we found that + Professor Tyndall <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">had</span></span> been there a day or two + before, but had done nothing. I had seen the mountain from nearly + every direction, and it seemed, even to a novice like myself, far too + much for a single day. I intended to sleep out upon it, as + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page50">[pg 50]</span><a name="Pg050" + id="Pg050" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>high as possible, and to + attempt to reach the summit on the following day. We endeavoured to + induce another man to accompany us, but without success. Matthias zum + Taugwald and other well-known guides were there at the time, but they + declined to go on any account. A sturdy old fellow—Peter Taugwalder + by name—said he would go! His price? <span class="tei tei-q">“Two + hundred francs.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“What, whether we + ascend or not?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Yes—nothing + less.”</span> The end of the matter was, that all the men who were + more or less capable showed a strong disinclination, or positively + refused, to go (their disinclination being very much in proportion to + their capacity), or else asked a prohibitive price. This, it may be + said once for all, was the reason why so many futile attempts were + made upon the Matterhorn. One first-rate guide after another was + brought up to the mountain, and patted on the back, but all declined + the business. The men who went had no heart in the matter, and took + the first opportunity to turn back.<a id="noteref_42" name= + "noteref_42" href="#note_42"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">42</span></span></a> For they + were, with the exception of one man, to whom reference will be made + presently, universally impressed with the belief that the summit was + entirely inaccessible.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We resolved to go + alone, and anticipating a cold bivouac, begged the loan of a couple + of blankets from the innkeeper. He refused them; giving the curious + reason, that we had bought a bottle of brandy at Val Tournanche, and + had not bought any from him! No brandy, no blankets, appeared to be + his rule. We did not require them that night, as it was passed in the + highest cow-shed in the valley, which is about an hour nearer to the + mountain than is the hotel. The cowherds, worthy fellows, seldom + troubled by tourists, hailed our company with delight, and did their + best to make us comfortable; brought out their little stores of + simple food, and, as we sat with them round the great copper pot + which hung over the fire, bade us in husky voice, but with honest + intent, to beware of the perils of the haunted cliffs. When night was + coming on, we saw, stealing up the hill-side, the forms of + Jean-Antoine Carrel and <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page51">[pg + 51]</span><a name="Pg051" id="Pg051" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the + comrade. <span class="tei tei-q">“Oh ho!”</span> I said, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“you have repented?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Not + at all; you deceive yourself.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Why + then have you come here?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Because we + ourselves are going on the mountain to-morrow.”</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Oh, then it is <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">not</span></span> necessary to have more than + three.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Not for <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">us</span></span>.”</span> I admired their pluck, + and had a strong inclination to engage the pair; but, finally, + decided against it. The comrade turned out to be the J. J. Carrel who + had been with Mr. Hawkins, and was nearly related to the other + man.</p><a name="fig25" id="fig25" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus078.png" alt= + "Illustration: Jean-Antoine Carrel" title= + "JEAN-ANTOINE CARREL (1869)." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + JEAN-ANTOINE CARREL (1869). + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Both were bold + mountaineers; but Jean-Antoine was incomparably the better man of the + two, and he is the finest rock-climber I have ever seen. He was the + only man who persistently refused to accept defeat, and who continued + to believe, in spite of all discouragements, that the great mountain + was not inaccessible, and that it could be ascended from the side of + his native valley.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The night wore + away without any excitement, except from the fleas, a party of whom + executed a spirited fandango on my cheek, to the sound of music + produced on the drum of my ear, by one of their fellows beating with + a wisp of hay. The two Carrels crept <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page52">[pg 52]</span><a name="Pg052" id="Pg052" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>noiselessly out before daybreak, and went off. + We did not start until nearly seven o’clock, and followed them + leisurely, leaving all our properties in the cow-shed; sauntered over + the gentian-studded slopes which intervene between the shed and the + Glacier du Lion, left cows and their pastures behind, traversed the + stony wastes, and arrived at the ice. Old, hard beds of snow lay on + its right bank (our left hand), and we mounted over them on to the + lower portion of the glacier with ease. But, as we ascended, + crevasses became numerous, and we were at last brought to a halt by + some which were of very large dimensions; and, as our cutting powers + were limited, we sought an easier route, and turned, naturally, to + the lower rocks of the Tête du Lion, which overlook the glacier on + its west. Some good scrambling took us in a short time on to the + crest of the ridge which descends towards the south; and thence, up + to the level of the Col du Lion, there was a long natural staircase, + on which it was seldom necessary to use the hands. We dubbed the + place <span class="tei tei-q">“The Great Staircase.”</span> Then the + cliffs of the Tête du Lion, which rise above the Couloir, had to be + skirted. This part varies considerably in different seasons, and in + 1861 we found it difficult; for the fine steady weather of that year + had reduced the snow-beds abutting against it to a lower level than + usual, and the rocks which were left exposed at the junction of the + snow with the cliffs, had few ledges or cracks to which we could + hold. But by half-past ten o’clock we stood on the Col, and looked + down upon the magnificent basin out of which the Z’Mutt glacier + flows. We decided to pass the night upon the Col, for we were charmed + with the capabilities of the place, although it was one where + liberties could not be taken. On one side a sheer wall overhung the + Tiefenmatten glacier. On the other, steep, glassy slopes of hard snow + descended to the Glacier du Lion, furrowed by water and by falling + stones. On the north there was the great peak of the + Matterhorn,<a id="noteref_43" name="noteref_43" href= + "#note_43"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">43</span></span></a> and on + the south the cliffs of the Tête du Lion. Throw <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page53">[pg 53]</span><a name="Pg053" id="Pg053" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>a bottle down to the Tiefenmatten—no sound + returns for more than a dozen seconds.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-lg" style= + "margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + * * * <span class="tei tei-q" + style="text-align: left">“how fearful</span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left">And dizzy ’tis, + to cast one’s eyes so low!”</span> + </div> + </div><a name="fig26" id="fig26" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus080.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: The Col du Lion: Looking towards the Tête du Lion" + title="THE COL DU LION: LOOKING TOWARDS THE TÊTE DU LION." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE COL DU LION: LOOKING TOWARDS THE TÊTE DU LION. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">But no harm could + come from that side. Neither could it from the other. Nor was it + likely that it would from the Tête du Lion, for some jutting ledges + conveniently overhung our proposed resting-place. We waited for a + while, basked in the sunshine, and watched <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page54">[pg 54]</span><a name="Pg054" id="Pg054" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>or listened to the Carrels, who were sometimes + seen or heard, high above us, upon the ridge leading towards the + summit; and, leaving at mid-day, we descended to the cow-shed, packed + up the tent and other properties, and returned to the Col, although + heavily laden, before six o’clock. This tent was constructed on a + pattern suggested by Mr. Francis Galton, and it was not a success. It + looked very pretty when set up in London, but it proved thoroughly + useless in the Alps. It was made of light canvas, and opened like a + book; had one end closed permanently and the other with flaps; it was + supported by two alpenstocks, and had the canvas sides prolonged so + as to turn in underneath. Numerous cords were sewn to the lower + edges, to which stones were to be attached; but the main fastenings + were by a cord which passed underneath the ridge and through iron + rings screwed into the tops of the alpenstocks, and were secured by + pegs. The wind, which playfully careered about the surrounding + cliffs, was driven through our gap with the force of a blow-pipe; the + flaps of the tent would not keep down, the pegs would not stay in, + and it exhibited so marked a desire to go to the top of the Dent + Blanche, that we thought it prudent to take it down and to sit upon + it. When night came on we wrapped ourselves in it, and made our camp + as comfortable as the circumstances would allow. The silence was + impressive. No living thing was near our solitary bivouac; the + Carrels had turned back and were out of hearing; the stones had + ceased to fall, and the trickling water to murmur—</p> + + <div class="tei tei-lg" style= + "margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left">“The music of + whose liquid lip</span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + Had been to us companionship, + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + And, in our lonely life, had grown + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left">To have an + almost human tone.”</span><a id="noteref_44" name="noteref_44" + href="#note_44"><span class="tei tei-noteref" style= + "text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">44</span></span></a> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was bitterly + cold. Water froze hard in a bottle under my head. Not surprising, as + we were actually on snow, and in a position where the slightest wind + was at once felt. For a time we dozed, but about midnight there came + from high aloft a tremendous <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page55">[pg + 55]</span><a name="Pg055" id="Pg055" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>explosion, followed by a second of dead quiet. A + great mass of rock had split off, and was descending towards us. My + guide started up, wrung his hands, and exclaimed, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“O my God, we are lost!”</span> We heard it coming, mass + after mass pouring over the precipices, bounding and rebounding from + cliff to cliff, and the great rocks in advance smiting one another. + They seemed to be close, although they were probably distant, but + some small fragments, which dropped upon us at the same time from the + ledges just above, added to the alarm, and my demoralised companion + passed the remainder of the night in a state of shudder, ejaculating + <span class="tei tei-q">“terrible,”</span> and other adjectives.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We put ourselves + in motion at daybreak, and commenced the ascent of the south-west + ridge. There was no more sauntering with hands in the pockets; each + step had to be earned by downright climbing. But it was the most + pleasant kind of climbing. The rocks were fast and unencumbered with + débris; the cracks were good, although not numerous, and there was + nothing to fear except from one’s-self. So we thought, at least, and + shouted to awake echoes from the cliffs. Ah! there is no response. + Not yet; wait a while, everything here is upon a superlative scale; + count a dozen, and then the echoes will return from the walls of the + Dent d’Hérens, miles away, in waves of pure and undefiled sound; + soft, musical, and sweet. Halt a moment to regard the view! We + overlook the Tête du Lion, and nothing except the Dent d’Hérens, + whose summit is still a thousand feet above us, stands in the way. + The ranges of the Graian Alps—an ocean of mountains—are seen, at a + glance, governed by their three great peaks, the Grivola, Grand + Paradis, and Tour de St. Pierre. How soft, and yet how sharp, they + look in the early morning! The mid-day mists have not begun to rise; + nothing is obscured; even the pointed Viso, all but a hundred miles + away, is perfectly defined.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Turn to the east, + and watch the sun’s slanting rays coming across the Monte Rosa + snow-fields. Look at the shadowed parts, and see how even + they—radiant with reflected light—are more <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page56">[pg 56]</span><a name="Pg056" id="Pg056" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>brilliant than man knows how to depict. See, + how—even there—the gentle undulations give shadows within shadows; + and how—yet again—where falling stones or ice have left a track, + there are shadows upon shadows, each with a light and a dark side, + with infinite gradations of matchless tenderness. Then, note the + sunlight as it steals noiselessly along, and reveals countless + unsuspected forms;—the delicate ripple-lines which mark the concealed + crevasse, and the waves of drifted snow; producing each minute more + lights and fresh shadows; sparkling on the edges and glittering on + the ends of the icicles; shining on the heights and illuminating the + depths, until all is aglow, and the dazzled eye returns for relief to + the sombre crags.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Hardly an hour had + passed since we left the Col before we arrived at the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Chimney.”</span> It proved to be the counterpart of the + place to which reference has been made at <a href="#Pg003" class= + "tei tei-ref">p. 3</a>; a smooth, straight slab of rock was fixed, at + a considerable angle, between two others equally smooth.<a id= + "noteref_45" name="noteref_45" href="#note_45"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">45</span></span></a> My + companion essayed to go up, and, after crumpling his long body into + many ridiculous positions, he said that he would not, for he could + not, do it. With some little trouble I got up it unassisted, and then + my guide tied himself on to the end of our rope, and I endeavoured to + pull him up. But he was so awkward that he did little for himself, + and so heavy that he proved too much for me, and after several + attempts he untied himself, and quietly observed that he should go + down. I told him he was a coward, and <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">he</span></span> + mentioned his opinion of me. I requested him to go to Breil, and to + say that he had left his <span class="tei tei-q">“monsieur”</span> on + the mountain, and he turned to go; whereupon I had to eat humble pie + and ask him to come back; for, although it was not very difficult to + go up, and not at all dangerous with a man standing below, it was + quite another thing to come down, as the lower edge overhung in a + provoking manner.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The day was + perfect; the sun was pouring down grateful <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page57">[pg 57]</span><a name="Pg057" id="Pg057" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>warmth; the wind had fallen; the way seemed + clear, no insuperable obstacle was in sight; yet what could one do + alone? I stood on the top, chafing under this unexpected contretemps, + and remained for some time irresolute; but as it became apparent that + the Chimney was swept more frequently than was necessary (it was a + natural channel for falling stones), I turned at last, descended with + the assistance of my companion, and returned with him to Breil, where + we arrived about mid-day.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Carrels did + not show themselves, but we were told that they had not got to any + great height,<a id="noteref_46" name="noteref_46" href= + "#note_46"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">46</span></span></a> and that + the <span class="tei tei-q">“comrade,”</span> who for convenience had + taken off his shoes and tied them round his waist, had managed to let + one of them slip, and had come down with a piece of cord fastened + round his naked foot. Notwithstanding this, they had boldly glissaded + down the Couloir du Lion, J. J. Carrel having his shoeless foot tied + up in a pocket handkerchief.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Matterhorn was + not assailed again in 1861. I left Breil with the conviction that it + was little use for a single tourist to organise an attack upon it, so + great was its influence on the morals of the guides, and persuaded + that it was desirable at least two should go, to back each other when + required: and departed with my guide<a id="noteref_47" name= + "noteref_47" href="#note_47"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">47</span></span></a> over the + Col Théodule, longing, more than before, to make the ascent, and + determined to return, if possible with a companion, to lay siege to + the mountain until one or the other was vanquished.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page58">[pg 58]</span><a name="Pg058" + id="Pg058" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc13" id= + "toc13"></a> <a name="pdf14" id="pdf14"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER IV.</span></h1> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">RENEWED ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE + MATTERHORN.</span></h1> + + <div class="tei tei-epigraph" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 9.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-lg" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-left: 1.80em; margin-top: 0.90em"> + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">’Tis a + lesson you should heed,</span></span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style= + "text-align: left; margin-left: 3.60em"> + <span style="font-size: 90%">Try, try, try again.</span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span style="font-size: 90%">If at first you don’t + succeed,</span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style= + "text-align: left; margin-left: 3.60em"> + <span style="font-size: 90%">Try, try, try again.</span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span style="font-size: 90%">Then your courage should + appear,</span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span style="font-size: 90%">For if you will persevere</span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span style="font-size: 90%">You will conquer, never + fear.</span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style= + "text-align: left; margin-left: 3.60em"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">Try, try, try again.</span><span style= + "font-size: 90%">”</span></span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style= + "text-align: left; margin-left: 10.80em"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Hickson.</span></span> + </div> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The year 1862 was + still young, and the Matterhorn, clad in its wintry garb, bore but + little resemblance to the Matterhorn of the summer, when a new force + came to do battle with the mountain, from another direction. Mr. T. + S. Kennedy of Leeds conceived the extraordinary idea that the peak + might prove less impracticable in January than in June, and arrived + at Zermatt in the former month to put his conception to the test. + With stout Peter Perrn and sturdy Peter Taugwalder he slept in the + little chapel at the Schwarzensee, and on the next morning, like the + Messrs. Parker, followed the ridge between the peak called Hörnli and + the great mountain. But they found that snow in winter obeyed the + ordinary laws, and that the wind and frost were not less unkind than + in summer. <span class="tei tei-q">“The wind whirled up the snow and + spiculæ of ice into our faces like needles, and flat pieces of ice a + foot in diameter, carried up from the glacier below, went flying + past. Still no one seemed to like to be the first to give in, till a + gust fiercer than usual forced us to shelter for a time behind a + rock. Immediately it was tacitly understood that our expedition must + now end; but we <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page59">[pg + 59]</span><a name="Pg059" id="Pg059" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>determined to leave some memento of our visit, + and, after descending a considerable distance, we found a suitable + place with loose stones of which to build a cairn. In half-an-hour a + tower six feet high was erected; a bottle, with the date, was placed + inside, and we retreated as rapidly as possible.”</span><a id= + "noteref_48" name="noteref_48" href="#note_48"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">48</span></span></a> This + cairn was placed at the spot marked upon Dufour’s Map of Switzerland + 10,820 feet (3298 mètres), and the highest point attained by Mr. + Kennedy was not, I imagine, more than two or three hundred feet above + it.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Shortly after this + Professor Tyndall gave, in his little tract <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Mountaineering in + 1861</span></span>, an account of the reason why he had left Breil, + in August 1861, without doing anything.<a id="noteref_49" name= + "noteref_49" href="#note_49"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">49</span></span></a> It seems + that he sent his guide Bennen to reconnoitre, and that the latter + made the following report to his employer:—<span class= + "tei tei-q">“Herr, I have examined the mountain carefully, and find + it more difficult and dangerous than I had imagined. There is no + place upon it where we could well pass the night. We might do so on + yonder Col upon the snow, but there we should be almost frozen to + death, and totally unfit for the work of the next day. On the rocks + there is no ledge or cranny which could give us proper harbourage; + and starting from Breuil it is certainly impossible to reach the + summit in a single day.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“I was + entirely taken aback,”</span> says Tyndall, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“by this report. I felt like a man whose grip had given + way, and who was dropping through the air.... Bennen was evidently + dead against any attempt upon the mountain. <span class= + "tei tei-q">‘We can, at all events, reach the lower of the two + summits,’</span> I remarked. <span class="tei tei-q">‘Even that is + difficult,’</span> he replied; <span class="tei tei-q">‘but when you + have reached it, what then? The peak has neither name nor + fame.’</span> ”</span><a id="noteref_50" name="noteref_50" href= + "#note_50"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">50</span></span></a></p><span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page60">[pg 60]</span><a name="Pg060" id="Pg060" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I was more + surprised than discouraged by this report by Bennen. One half of his + assertions I knew to be wrong. The Col to which he referred was the + Col du Lion, upon which we had passed a night less than a week after + he had spoken so authoritatively; and I had seen a place not far + below the <span class="tei tei-q">“Chimney,”</span>—a place about 500 + feet above the Col—where it seemed possible to construct a + sleeping-place. Bennen’s opinions seem to have undergone a complete + change. In 1860 he is described as having been enthusiastic to make + an attempt, and in 1861 he was dead against one. Nothing dismayed by + this, my friend Mr. Reginald Macdonald, our companion on the + Pelvoux—to whom so much of our success had been due, agreed to join + me in a renewed assault from the south; and, although we failed to + secure Melchior Anderegg and some other notable guides, we obtained + two men of repute, namely, Johann zum Taugwald and Johann Kronig, of + Zermatt. We met at that place early in July, but stormy weather + prevented us even from passing to the other side of the chain for + some time. We crossed the Col Théodule on the 5th, in thoroughly + unsettled weather—rain was falling in the valleys, and snow upon the + mountains. Shortly before we gained the summit we were made extremely + uncomfortable by hearing mysterious, rushing sounds, which sometimes + seemed as if a sudden gust of wind was sweeping along the snow, and, + at others, almost like the swishing of a long whip: yet the snow + exhibited no signs of motion, and the air was perfectly calm. The + dense, black storm-clouds made us momentarily expect that our bodies + might be used as lightning-conductors, and we were well satisfied to + get under shelter of the inn at Breil, without having submitted to + any such experience.<a id="noteref_51" name="noteref_51" href= + "#note_51"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">51</span></span></a></p><span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page61">[pg 61]</span><a name="Pg061" id="Pg061" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We had need of a + porter, and, by the advice of our landlord, descended to the chalets + of Breil in search of one Luc Meynet. We found his house a mean + abode, encumbered with cheese-making apparatus, and tenanted only by + some bright-eyed children; but as they said that uncle Luc would soon + be home, we waited at the door of the little chalet and watched for + him. At last a speck was seen coming round the corner of the patch of + firs below Breil, and then the children clapped their hands, dropped + their toys, and ran eagerly forward to meet him. We saw an ungainly, + wobbling figure stoop down and catch up the little ones, kiss them on + each cheek, and put them into the empty panniers on each side of the + mule, and then heard it come on carolling, as if this was not a world + of woe: and yet the face of little Luc Meynet, the hunchback of + Breil, bore traces of trouble and sorrow, and there was more than a + touch of sadness in his voice when he said that he must look after + his brother’s children. All his difficulties were, however, at length + overcome, and he agreed to join us to carry the tent.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In the past winter + I had turned my attention to tents, and that which we had brought + with us was the result of experiments to devise one which should be + sufficiently portable to be taken over the most difficult ground, and + which should combine lightness with stability. Its base was just + under six feet square, and a cross-section perpendicular to its + length was an equilateral triangle, the sides of which were six feet + long. It was intended to accommodate four persons. It was supported + by four ash-poles, six feet and a half long, and one inch and a + quarter thick, tapering to the top to an inch and an eighth; these + were shod with iron points. The order of proceeding in the + construction of the tent was as follows:—Holes were drilled through + the poles about five inches from their tops, for the insertion of two + wrought-iron bolts, three inches long <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page62">[pg 62]</span><a name="Pg062" id="Pg062" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>and one quarter of an inch thick. The bolts were + then inserted, and the two pairs of poles were set out (and fixed up + by cords), to the proper dimensions. The roof was then put on. This + was made of the rough, unbleached calico called forfar, which can be + obtained in six-feet widths, and it was continued round for about two + feet, on each side, on to the floor. The width of the material was + the length of the tent, and seams were thus avoided in the roof. The + forfar was sewn round each pole; particular care being taken to avoid + wrinkles, and to get the whole perfectly taut. The flooring was next + put in and sewn down to the forfar. This was of the ordinary plaid + mackintosh, about nine feet square; the surplus three feet being + continued up the sides to <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page63">[pg + 63]</span><a name="Pg063" id="Pg063" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>prevent draughts. It is as well to have two feet + of this surplus on one side, and only one foot on the other; the + latter amount being sufficient for the side occupied by the feet. One + end was then permanently closed by a triangular piece of forfar, + which was sewn down to that which was already fixed. The other end + was left open, and had two triangular flaps that overlapped each + other, and which were fastened up when we were inside by pieces of + tape. Lastly, the forfar was nailed down to the poles to prevent the + tent getting out of shape. The cord which was used for climbing + served for the tent; it was passed over the crossed poles and + underneath the ridge of the roof, and the two ends—one fore and the + other aft—were easily secured to pieces of rock. Such a tent costs + about four guineas, and its weight is about twenty-three pounds; or, + if the lightest kind of forfar is used, it need not exceed twenty + pounds. When it was fastened up for transport it presented the + appearance shown in the portrait of Meynet at <a href="#fig66" class= + "tei tei-ref">p. 234</a>, and it could be unrolled and set up by two + persons in three minutes; a point of no small importance during + extreme weather.</p><a name="fig27" id="fig27" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus089a.png" alt= + "Illustration: Diagram to show manner of fastening tent-poles" /></div><a name="fig28" + id="fig28" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus089b.png" alt= + "Illustration: The author’s mountain tent" title= + "THE AUTHOR’S MOUNTAIN TENT." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE AUTHOR’S MOUNTAIN TENT. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This tent is + intended, and adapted, for camping out at high altitudes, or in cold + climates. It is not pretended that it is perfectly waterproof, but it + can be made so by the addition of mackintosh to the roof; and this + increases the weight by only two and a half pounds. It is then fit + for general use.<a id="noteref_52" name="noteref_52" href= + "#note_52"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">52</span></span></a> It may + be observed that the pattern of this tent is identical in all + essential points with that arrived at (after great experience) by Sir + Leopold M’Clintock for Arctic work, and frequent use by many persons, + under varied conditions, has shown that the pattern is both practical + and substantial.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page64">[pg + 64]</span><a name="Pg064" id="Pg064" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Sunday, the 6th of + July, was showery, and snow fell on the Matterhorn, but we started on + the following morning with our three men, and pursued my route of the + previous year. I was requested to direct the way, as none save myself + had been on the mountain before. I did not distinguish myself upon + this occasion, and led my companions nearly to the top of the small + peak before the mistake was discovered. The party becoming + rebellious, a little exploration was made towards our right, and we + found that we were upon the top of the cliff overlooking the Col du + Lion. The upper part of the small peak is of a very different + character to the lower part; the rocks are not so firm, and they are + usually covered, or intermixed, with snow, and glazed with ice: the + angle too is more severe. While descending a small snow-slope, to get + on to the right track, Kronig slipped on a streak of ice, and went + down at a fearful pace. Fortunately he kept on his legs, and, by a + great effort, succeeded in stopping just before he arrived at some + rocks that jutted through the snow, which would infallibly have + knocked him over. When we rejoined him a few minutes later, we found + that he was incapable of standing, much less of moving, with a face + corpse-like in hue, and trembling violently. He remained in this + condition for more than an hour, and the day was consequently far + advanced before we arrived at our camping-place on the Col. Profiting + by the experience of last year, we did not pitch the tent actually on + the snow, but collected a quantity of débris from the neighbouring + ledges, and after constructing a rough platform of the larger pieces, + levelled the whole with the dirt and mud.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Meynet had proved + invaluable as a tent-bearer; for—although his legs were more + picturesque than symmetrical, and although he seemed to be built on + principle with no two parts alike—his very deformities proved of + service; and we quickly found he had spirit of no common order, and + that few peasants are more agreeable companions, or better climbers, + than little Luc Meynet, the hunchback of Breil. He now showed himself + not less serviceable as a scavenger, and humbly asked for gristly + pieces of meat, <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page65">[pg + 65]</span><a name="Pg065" id="Pg065" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>rejected by the others, or for suspicious eggs; + and seemed to consider it a peculiar favour, if not a treat, to be + permitted to drink the coffee-grounds. With the greatest contentment + he took the worst place at the door of the tent, and did all the + dirty work which was put upon him by the guides, as gratefully as a + dog—who has been well beaten—will receive a stroke.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A strong wind + sprang up from the east during the night, and in the morning it was + blowing almost a hurricane. The tent behaved nobly, and we remained + under its shelter for several hours after the sun had risen, + uncertain what it was best to do. A lull tempted us to move, but we + had scarcely ascended a hundred feet before the storm burst upon us + with increased fury. Advance or return was alike impossible; the + ridge was denuded of its débris; and we clutched our hardest when we + saw stones as big as a man’s fist blown away horizontally into space. + We dared not attempt to stand upright, and remained stationary, on + all fours, glued, as it were, to the rocks. It was intensely cold, + for the blast had swept along the main chain of the Pennine Alps, and + across the great snow-fields around Monte Rosa. Our warmth and + courage rapidly evaporated, and at the next lull we retreated to the + tent; having to halt several times even in that short distance. + Taugwald and Kronig then declared that they had had enough, and + refused to have anything more to do with the mountain. Meynet also + informed us that he would be required down below for important + cheese-making operations on the following day. It was therefore + needful to return to Breil, and we arrived there at 2.30 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span>, + extremely chagrined at our complete defeat.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Jean-Antoine + Carrel, attracted by rumours, had come up to the inn during our + absence, and after some negotiations agreed to accompany us, with one + of his friends named Pession, on the first fine day. We thought + ourselves fortunate; for Carrel clearly considered the mountain a + kind of <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">preserve</span></span>, and regarded our late + attempt as an act of <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">poaching</span></span>. The wind blew itself out + during the night, and we started again, with these two men and a + porter, <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page66">[pg 66]</span><a name= + "Pg066" id="Pg066" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>at 8 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> on the + 9th, with unexceptionable weather. Carrel pleased us by suggesting + that we should camp even higher than before; and we accordingly + proceeded, without resting at the Col, until we overtopped the Tête + du Lion. Near the foot of the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Chimney,”</span> a little below the crest of the ridge, + and on its eastern side, we found a protected place; and by building + up from ledge to ledge (under the direction of our leader, who was a + mason by profession), we at length constructed a platform of + sufficient size and of considerable solidity. Its height was about + 12,550 feet above the sea; and it exists, I believe, at the present + time.<a id="noteref_53" name="noteref_53" href= + "#note_53"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">53</span></span></a> We then + pushed on, as the day was very fine, and, after a short hour’s + scramble, got to the foot of the Great Tower upon the ridge (that is + to say, to Mr. Hawkins’ farthest point), and afterwards returned to + our bivouac. We turned out again at 4 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span>, and at + 5.15 started upwards once more, with fine weather and the thermometer + at 28°. Carrel scrambled up the Chimney, and Macdonald and I after + him. Pession’s turn came, but when he arrived at the top he looked + very ill, declared himself to be thoroughly incapable, and said that + he must go back. We waited some time, but he did not get better, + neither could we learn the nature of his illness. Carrel flatly + refused to go on with us alone. We were helpless. Macdonald, ever the + coolest of the cool, suggested that we should try what we could do + without them; but our better judgment prevailed, and, finally, we + returned together to Breil. On the next day my friend started for + London.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Three times I had + essayed the ascent of this mountain, and on each occasion had failed + ignominiously. I had not advanced a yard beyond my predecessors. Up + to the height of nearly 13,000 feet there were no extraordinary + difficulties; the way so far might even become <span class= + "tei tei-q">“a matter of amusement.”</span> Only 1800 feet remained; + but they were as yet untrodden, and might present the most + for<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page67">[pg 67]</span><a name="Pg067" + id="Pg067" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>midable obstacles. No man could + expect to climb them by himself. A morsel of rock only seven feet + high might at any time defeat him, if it were perpendicular. Such a + place might be possible to two, or a bagatelle to three men. It was + evident that a party should consist of three men at least. But where + could the other two men be obtained? Carrel was the only man who + exhibited any enthusiasm in the matter; and he, in 1861, had + absolutely refused to go unless the party consisted of at least + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">four</span></span> persons. Want of men made the + difficulty, not the mountain.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The weather became + bad again, so I went to Zermatt on the chance of picking up a man, + and remained there during a week of storms.<a id="noteref_54" name= + "noteref_54" href="#note_54"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">54</span></span></a> Not one + of the better men, however, could be induced to come, and I returned + to Breil on the 17th, hoping to combine the skill of Carrel with the + willingness of Meynet on a new attempt, by the same route as before; + for the Hörnli ridge, which I had examined in the meantime, seemed to + be entirely impracticable. Both men were inclined to go, but their + ordinary occupations prevented them from starting at once.<a id= + "noteref_55" name="noteref_55" href="#note_55"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">55</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">My tent had been + left rolled up at the second platform, and whilst waiting for the men + it occurred to me that it might have been blown away during the late + stormy weather; so I started off on the 18th to see if this were so + or not. The way was by this time familiar, and I mounted rapidly, + astonishing the friendly herdsmen—who nodded recognition as I flitted + past them and the cows—for I was alone, because no man was available. + But more deliberation was necessary when the pastures were passed, + and climbing began, for it was needful to mark each step, in case of + mist, or surprise by night. It is one of the few things which can be + said in favour of mountaineering alone (a practice which has little + besides to commend it), that it awakens a man’s faculties, and makes + him observe. When one has no arms to help, and no head to guide him + except his own, he must needs take note even of small things, + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page68">[pg 68]</span><a name="Pg068" + id="Pg068" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>for he cannot afford to throw + away a chance; and so it came to pass, upon my solitary scramble, + when above the snow-line, and beyond the ordinary limits of flowering + plants, when peering about, noting angles and landmarks, that my eyes + fell upon the tiny straggling plants—oftentimes a single flower on a + single stalk—pioneers of vegetation, atoms of life in a world of + desolation, which had found their way up—who can tell how?—from far + below, and were obtaining bare sustenance from the scanty soil in + protected nooks; and it gave a new interest to the well-known rocks + to see what a gallant fight the survivors made (for many must have + perished in the attempt) to ascend the great mountain. The Gentian, + as one might have expected, was there; but it was run close by + Saxifrages, and by <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Linaria alpina</span></span>, and was beaten by + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Thlaspi + rotundifolium</span></span>, which latter plant was the highest I was + able to secure, although it too was overtopped by a little white + flower which I knew not, and was unable to reach.<a id="noteref_56" + name="noteref_56" href="#note_56"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">56</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The tent was safe, + although snowed up; and I turned to con<span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page69">[pg 69]</span><a name="Pg069" id="Pg069" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>template the view, which, when seen alone and + undisturbed, had all the strength and charm of complete novelty. The + highest peaks of the Pennine chain were in front—the Breithorn + (13,685 feet), the Lyskamm (14,889), and Monte Rosa (15,217); then, + turning to the right, the entire block of mountains which separated + the Val Tournanche from the Val d’Ayas was seen at a glance, with its + dominating summit the Grand Tournalin (11,155). Behind were the + ranges dividing the Val d’Ayas from the Valley of Gressoney, backed + by higher summits. More still to the right, the eye wandered down the + entire length of the Val Tournanche, and then rested upon the Graian + Alps with their innumerable peaks, and upon the isolated pyramid of + Monte Viso (12,643) in the extreme distance. Next, still turning to + the right, came the mountains <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page70">[pg 70]</span><a name="Pg070" id="Pg070" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>intervening between the Val Tournanche and the + Val Barthélemy: Mont Rouss (a round-topped snowy summit, which seems + so important from Breil, but which is in reality only a buttress of + the higher mountain, the Château des Dames), had long ago sunk, and + the eye passed over it, scarcely heeding its existence, to the Becca + Salle (or, as it is sometimes called, Bec de Sale),—a miniature + Matterhorn—and to other, and more important heights. Then the grand + mass of the Dent d’Hérens (13,714) stopped the way; a noble mountain, + encrusted on its northern slopes with enormous hanging glaciers, + which broke away at mid-day in immense slices, and thundered down on + to the Tiefenmatten glacier; and lastly, most splendid of all, came + the Dent Blanche (14,318), soaring above the basin of the great + Z’Muttgletscher. Such a view is hardly to be excelled in the Alps, + and <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">this</span></span> view is very rarely seen, as + I saw it, perfectly unclouded.<a id="noteref_57" name="noteref_57" + href="#note_57"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">57</span></span></a></p><span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page71">[pg 71]</span><a name="Pg071" id="Pg071" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Time sped away + unregarded, and the little birds which had built their nests on the + neighbouring cliffs had begun to chirp their evening hymn before I + thought of returning. Half mechanically I turned to the tent, + unrolled it, and set it up; it contained food enough for several + days, and I resolved to stay over the night. I had started from Breil + without provisions, or telling Favre—the innkeeper, who was + accustomed to my erratic ways—where I was going. I returned to the + view. The sun was setting, and its rosy rays, blending with the snowy + blue, had thrown a pale, pure violet far as the eye could see; the + valleys were drowned in purple gloom, whilst the summits shone with + unnatural brightness: and as I sat in the door of the tent, and + watched the twilight change to darkness, the earth seemed to become + less earthy and almost sublime; the world seemed dead, and I, its + sole inhabitant. By and by, the moon as it rose brought the hills + again into sight, and by a judicious repression of detail rendered + the view yet more magnificent. Something in the south hung like a + great glow-worm in the air; it was too large for a star, and too + steady for a meteor; and it was long before I could realise the + incredible fact that it was the moonlight glittering on the great + snow-slope on the north side of Monte Viso, at a distance, as the + crow flies, of 98 miles. Shivering, at last I entered the tent and + made my coffee. The night was passed comfortably, and the next + morning, tempted by the brilliancy of the weather, I proceeded yet + higher in search of another place for a platform.</p><span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page72">[pg 72]</span><a name="Pg072" id="Pg072" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="fig29" id="fig29" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus099.png" alt="Illustration: Climbing claw" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Solitary + scrambling over a pretty wide area had shown me that a single + individual is subjected to many difficulties which do not trouble a + party of two or three men, and that the disadvantages of being alone + are more felt while descending than during the ascent. In order to + neutralise these inconveniences, I devised two little appliances, + which were now brought into use for the first time. One was a claw—a + kind of grapnel—about five inches long, made of shear steel, + one-fifth of an inch thick. This was of use in difficult places, + where there was no hold within arm’s length, but where there were + cracks or ledges some distance higher. The claw could be stuck on the + end of the alpenstock and dropped into such places, or, on extreme + occasions, flung up until it attached itself to something. The edges + that laid hold of the rocks were serrated, which tended to make them + catch more readily: the other end had a ring to which a rope was + fastened. It must not be understood that this was employed for + hauling one’s-self up for any great distance, but that it was used in + ascending, at the most, for only a few yards at a time. In + descending, however, it could be prudently used for a greater + distance at a time, as the claws could be planted firmly; but it was + necessary to keep the rope taut, and the pull constantly in the + direction of the length of the implement, otherwise it had a tendency + to slip away. The second device was merely a modification of a dodge + practised by all climbers. It is frequently necessary for a single + man (or for the last man of a party) during a descent, to make a loop + in the end of his rope, to pass it over some rocks, and to come down + holding the free end. The loop is then jerked off, and the process + may be repeated. But as it sometimes happens that there are no rocks + at hand which will allow a loose loop to be used, a slip-knot has to + be resorted to, and the rope is drawn in tightly. Consequently it + will occur that it is <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page73">[pg + 73]</span><a name="Pg073" id="Pg073" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>not + possible to jerk the loop off, and the rope has to be cut and left + behind. To prevent this, I had a wrought-iron ring (two and a quarter + inches in diameter and three-eighths of an inch thick) attached to + one end of my rope. A loop could be made in a moment by passing the + other end of the rope through this ring, which of course slipped up + and held tightly as I descended holding the free end. A strong piece + of cord was also attached to the ring, and, on arriving at the + bottom, this was pulled; the ring slid back again, and the loop was + whipped off readily. By means of these two simple appliances I was + able to ascend and descend rocks, which otherwise would have been + completely impassable for a single person. The combined weight of + these two things amounted to less than half-a-pound.</p><a name= + "fig30" id="fig30" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus100.png" alt="Illustration: Rope and rin" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It has been + mentioned (<a href="#Pg055" class="tei tei-ref">p. 55</a>) that the + rocks of the south-west ridge are by no means difficult for some + distance above the Col du Lion. This is true of the rocks up to the + level of the Chimney, but they steepen when that is passed, and + remaining smooth and with but few fractures, and still continuing to + dip outwards, present some steps of a very uncertain kind, + particularly when they are glazed with ice. At this point (just above + the Chimney) the climber is obliged to follow the southern (or Breil) + side of the ridge, but, in a few feet more, one must turn over to the + northern (or Z’Mutt) side, where, in most years, nature kindly + provides a snow-slope. When this is surmounted, one can again return + to the crest of the ridge, and follow it, by easy rocks, to the foot + of the Great Tower. This was the highest point attained by Mr. + Hawkins in 1860, and it was also our highest on the 9th of July.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This Great Tower + is one of the most striking features of the ridge. It stands out like + a turret at the angle of a castle. Behind <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page74">[pg 74]</span><a name="Pg074" id="Pg074" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>it a battlemented wall leads upwards to the + citadel.<a id="noteref_58" name="noteref_58" href= + "#note_58"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">58</span></span></a> Seen + from the Théodule pass, it looks only an insignificant pinnacle, but + as one approaches it (on the ridge) so it seems to rise, and, when + one is at its base, it completely conceals the upper parts of the + mountain. I found here a suitable place for the tent; which, although + not so well protected as the second platform, possessed the advantage + of being 300 feet higher up; and fascinated by the wildness of the + cliffs, and enticed by the perfection of the weather, I went on to + see what was behind.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The first step was + a difficult one. The ridge became diminished to the least possible + width—it was hard to keep one’s balance—and just where it was + narrowest, a more than perpendicular mass barred the way. Nothing + fairly within arm’s reach could be laid hold of; it was necessary to + spring up, and then to haul one’s-self over the sharp edge by sheer + strength. Progression directly upwards was then impossible. Enormous + and appalling precipices plunged down to the Tiefenmatten glacier on + the left, but round the right-hand side it was just possible to go. + One hindrance then succeeded another, and much time was consumed in + seeking the way. I have a vivid recollection of a gully of more than + usual perplexity at the side of the Great Tower, with minute ledges + and steep walls; of the ledges dwindling down and at last ceasing; + and of finding myself, with arms and legs divergent, fixed as if + crucified, pressing against the rock, and feeling each rise and fall + of my chest as I breathed; of screwing my head round to look for + hold, and not seeing any, and of jumping sideways on to the other + side. ’Tis vain to attempt to describe such places. Whether they are + sketched with a light hand, or wrought out in laborious detail, one + stands an equal chance of being misunderstood. Their enchantment to + the climber arises from their calls on his faculties, in their + demands on his strength, and on overcoming the impediments which they + oppose to his skill. The non-mountaineering reader cannot feel this, + and his interest in descriptions of such places is usually small, + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page75">[pg 75]</span><a name="Pg075" + id="Pg075" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>unless he supposes that the + situations are perilous. They are not necessarily perilous, but I + think that it is impossible to avoid giving such an impression if the + difficulties are particularly insisted upon.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">About this part + there was a change in the quality of the rock, and there was a change + in the general appearance of the ridge. The rocks (talcose gneiss) + below this spot were singularly firm; it was rarely necessary to test + one’s hold; the way led over the living rock, and not up rent-off + fragments. But here, all was decay and ruin. The crest of the ridge + was shattered and cleft, and the feet sank in the chips which had + drifted down; while above, huge blocks, hacked and carved by the hand + of time, nodded to the sky, looking like the grave-stones of giants. + Out of curiosity I wandered to a notch in the ridge, between two + tottering piles of immense masses, which seemed to need but a few + pounds on one or the other side to make them fall; so nicely poised + that they would literally have rocked in the wind, for they were put + in motion by a touch; and based on support so frail that I wondered + they did not collapse before my eyes. In the whole range of my Alpine + experience I have seen nothing more striking than this desolate, + ruined, and shattered ridge at the back of the Great Tower. I have + seen stranger shapes,—rocks which mimic the human form, with + monstrous leering faces—and isolated pinnacles, sharper and greater + than any here; but I have never seen exhibited so impressively the + tremendous effects which may be produced by frost, and by the + long-continued action of forces whose individual effects are barely + perceptible.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is needless to + say that it is impossible to climb by the crest of the ridge at this + part; still one is compelled to keep near to it, for there is no + other way. Generally speaking, the angles on the Matterhorn are too + steep to allow the formation of considerable beds of snow, but here + there is a corner which permits it to accumulate, and it is turned to + gratefully, for, by its assistance, one can ascend four times as + rapidly as upon the rocks.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Tower was now + almost out of sight, and I looked over <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page76">[pg 76]</span><a name="Pg076" id="Pg076" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>the central Pennine Alps to the Grand Combin, + and to the chain of Mont Blanc. My neighbour, the Dent d’Hérens, + still rose above me, although but slightly, and the height which had + been attained could be measured by its help. So far, I had no doubts + about my capacity to descend that which had been ascended; but, in a + short time, on looking ahead, I saw that the cliffs steepened, and I + turned back (without pushing on to them, and getting into + inextricable difficulties), exulting in the thought that they would + be passed when we returned together, and that I had, without + assistance, got nearly to the height of the Dent d’Hérens, and + considerably higher than any one had been before.<a id="noteref_59" + name="noteref_59" href="#note_59"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">59</span></span></a> My + exultation was a little premature.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">About 5 + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> I left the tent again, and + thought myself as good as at Breil. The friendly rope and claw had + done good service, and had smoothened all the difficulties. I lowered + myself through the Chimney, however, by making a fixture of the rope, + which I then cut off, and left behind, as there was enough and to + spare. My axe had proved a great nuisance in coming down, and I left + it in the tent. It was not attached to the bâton, but was a separate + affair,—an old navy boarding-axe. While cutting up the different + snow-beds on the ascent, the bâton trailed behind fastened to the + rope; and, when climbing, the axe was carried behind, run through the + rope tied round my waist, and was sufficiently out of the way. But in + descending, when coming down face outwards (as is always best where + it is possible), the head or the handle of the weapon caught + frequently against the rocks, and several times nearly upset me. So, + out of laziness if you will, it was left in the tent. I paid dearly + for the imprudence.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Col du Lion + was passed, and fifty yards more would have placed me on the + <span class="tei tei-q">“Great Staircase,”</span> down which one can + run. But <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page77">[pg 77]</span><a name= + "Pg077" id="Pg077" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>on arriving at an angle + of the cliffs of the Tête du Lion, while skirting the upper edge of + the snow which abuts against them, I found that the heat of the two + past days had nearly obliterated the steps which had been cut when + coming up. The rocks happened to be impracticable just at this + corner, so nothing could be done except make the steps afresh. The + snow was too hard to beat or tread down, and at the angle it was all + but ice. Half-a-dozen steps only were required, and then the ledges + could be followed again. So I held to the rock with my right hand, + and prodded at the snow with the point of my stick until a good step + was made, and then, leaning round the angle, did the same for the + other side. So far well, but in attempting to pass the corner (to the + present moment I cannot tell how it happened) I slipped and + fell.</p><a name="plate04" id="plate04" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus104.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: The chimney (on the South-West ridge of the Matterhorn)" + title= + "“THE CHIMNEY.” (ON THE SOUTH-WEST RIDGE OF THE MATTERHORN)." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: center">“THE + CHIMNEY.”</span><br /> + (ON THE SOUTH-WEST RIDGE OF THE MATTERHORN). + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The slope was + steep on which this took place, and was at the top of a gully that + led down through two subordinate buttresses towards the Glacier du + Lion—which was just seen, a thousand feet below. The gully narrowed + and narrowed, until there was a mere thread of snow lying between two + walls of rock, which came to an abrupt termination at the top of a + precipice that intervened between it and the glacier. Imagine a + funnel cut in half through its length, placed at an angle of 45 + degrees, with its point below and its concave side uppermost, and you + will have a fair idea of the place.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The knapsack + brought my head down first, and I pitched into some rocks about a + dozen feet below; they caught something and tumbled me off the edge, + head over heels, into the gully; the bâton was dashed from my hands, + and I whirled downwards in a series of bounds, each longer than the + last; now over ice, now into rocks; striking my head four or five + times, each time with increased force. The last bound sent me + spinning through the air, in a leap of fifty or sixty feet, from one + side of the gully to the other, and I struck the rocks, luckily, with + the whole of my left side. They caught my clothes for a moment, and I + fell back on to <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page78">[pg + 78]</span><a name="Pg078" id="Pg078" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the + snow with motion arrested. My head fortunately came the right side + up, and a few frantic catches brought me to a halt, in the neck of + the gully, and on the verge of the precipice. Bâton, hat, and veil + skimmed by and disappeared, and the crash of the rocks—which I had + started—as they fell on to the glacier, told how narrow had been the + escape from utter destruction. As it was, I fell nearly 200 feet in + seven or eight bounds. Ten feet more would have taken me in one + gigantic leap of 800 feet on to the glacier below.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The situation was + sufficiently serious. The rocks could not be left go for a moment, + and the blood was spirting out of more than twenty cuts. The most + serious ones were in the head, and I vainly tried to close them with + one hand, whilst holding on with the other. It was useless; the blood + jerked out in blinding jets at each pulsation. At last, in a moment + of inspiration, I kicked out a big lump of snow, and stuck it as a + plaster on my head. The idea was a happy one, and the flow of blood + diminished. Then, scrambling up, I got, not a moment too soon, to a + place of safety, and fainted away. The sun was setting when + consciousness returned, and it was pitch dark before the Great + Staircase was descended; but, by a combination of luck and care, the + whole 4800 feet of descent to Breil was accomplished without a slip, + or once missing the way. I slunk past the cabin of the cowherds, who + were talking and laughing inside, utterly ashamed of the state to + which I had been brought by my imbecility, and entered the inn + stealthily, wishing to escape to my room unnoticed. But Favre met me + in the passage, demanded <span class="tei tei-q">“Who is it?”</span> + screamed with fright when he got a light, and aroused the household. + Two dozen heads then held solemn council over mine, with more talk + than action. The natives were unanimous in recommending that hot wine + (syn. vinegar), mixed with salt, should be rubbed into the cuts. I + protested, but they insisted. It was all the doctoring they received. + Whether their rapid healing was to be attributed to that simple + remedy, or to a good state of health, <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page79">[pg 79]</span><a name="Pg079" id="Pg079" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>is a question; they closed up remarkably + quickly, and in a few days I was able to move again.<a id= + "noteref_60" name="noteref_60" href="#note_60"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">60</span></span></a></p><a name="plate05" + id="plate05" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus108.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: In attempting to pass the corner I slipped and fell" + title="“IN ATTEMPTING TO PASS THE CORNER I SLIPPED AND FELL.”" /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: center">“IN ATTEMPTING + TO PASS THE CORNER I SLIPPED AND FELL.”</span> + </div> + </div><a name="fig31" id="fig31" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus110.png" alt= + "Illustration: At Breil (Giomein)" title="AT BREIL (GIOMEIN)." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + AT BREIL (GIOMEIN). + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was + sufficiently dull during this time. I was chiefly occupied in + meditating on the vanity of human wishes, and in watching my clothes + being washed in the tub which was turned by the stream in the front + of the house; and I vowed that if an Englishman should at any time + fall sick in the Val Tournanche, he should not feel so solitary as I + did at this dreary time.<a id="noteref_61" name="noteref_61" href= + "#note_61"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">61</span></span></a></p><span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page80">[pg 80]</span><a name="Pg080" id="Pg080" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The news of the + accident brought Jean-Antoine Carrel up to Breil, and, along with the + haughty chasseur, came one of his relatives, a strong and able young + fellow named Cæsar. With these two men and Meynet I made another + start on the 23rd of July. We got to the tent without any trouble, + and on the following day had ascended beyond the Tower, and were + picking our way cautiously over the loose rocks behind (where my + traces of the week before were well apparent) in lovely weather, when + one of those abominable and almost instantaneous changes occurred, to + which the Matterhorn is so liable on its southern side. Mists were + created out of invisible vapours, and in a few minutes snow fell + heavily. We stopped, as this part was of excessive difficulty, and, + unwilling to retreat, remained on the spot several hours, in hopes + that another change would occur; but, as it did not, we at length + went down to the base of the Tower, and commenced to make a third + platform, at the height of 12,992 feet above the sea. It still + continued to snow, and we took refuge in the tent. Carrel argued that + the weather had broken up, and that the mountain would become so + glazed with ice as to render any attempt futile; and I, that the + change was only temporary, and that the rocks were too hot to allow + ice to form upon them. I wished to stay until the weather improved, + but my leader would not endure contradiction, grew more positive, and + insisted that we must go down. We went down, and when we got below + the Col his opinion was found to be wrong; the cloud was confined to + the upper 3000 feet, and outside it there was brilliant + weather.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page81">[pg + 81]</span><a name="Pg081" id="Pg081" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Carrel was not an + easy man to manage. He was perfectly aware that he was the cock of + the Val Tournanche, and he commanded the other men as by right. He + was equally conscious that he was indispensable to me, and took no + pains to conceal his knowledge of the fact. If he had been commanded, + or if he had been entreated to stop, it would have been all the same. + But, let me repeat, he was the only first-rate climber I could find + who believed that the mountain was not inaccessible. With him I had + hopes, but without him none; so he was allowed to do as he would. His + will on this occasion was almost incomprehensible. He certainly could + not be charged with cowardice, for a bolder man could hardly be + found; nor was he turning away on account of difficulty, for nothing + to which we had yet come seemed to be difficult to <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">him</span></span>; and + his strong personal desire to make the ascent was evident. There was + no occasion to come down on account of food, for we had taken, to + guard against this very casualty, enough to last for a week; and + there was no danger, and little or no discomfort, in stopping in the + tent. It seemed to me that he was spinning out the ascent for his own + purposes, and that although he wished very much to be the first man + on the top, and did not object to be accompanied by any one else who + had the same wish, he had no intention of letting one succeed too + soon,—perhaps to give a greater appearance of <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">éclat</span></span> + when the thing was accomplished. As he feared no rival, he may have + supposed that the more difficulties he made the more valuable he + would be estimated; though, to do him justice, he never showed any + great hunger for money. His demands were fair, not excessive; but he + always stipulated for so much per day, and so, under any + circumstances, he did not do badly.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Vexed at having my + time thus frittered away, I was still well pleased when he + volunteered to start again on the morrow, if it should be fine. We + were to advance the tent to the foot of the Tower, to fix ropes in + the most difficult parts beyond, and to make a push for the summit on + the following day.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The next morning + (Friday the 25th) when I arose, good little <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page82">[pg 82]</span><a name="Pg082" id="Pg082" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>Meynet was ready and waiting, and he said that + the two Carrels had gone off some time before, and had left word that + they intended marmot-hunting, as the day was favourable for that + sport.<a id="noteref_62" name="noteref_62" href= + "#note_62"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">62</span></span></a> My + holiday had nearly expired, and these men clearly could not be relied + upon; so, as a last resort, I proposed to the hunchback to accompany + me alone, to see if we could not get higher than before, though of + reaching the summit there was little or no hope. He did not hesitate, + and in a few hours we stood—for the third time together—upon the Col + du Lion. It was the first time Meynet had seen the view unclouded. + The poor little deformed peasant gazed upon it silently and + reverently for a time, and then, unconsciously, fell on one knee in + an attitude of adoration, and clasped his hands, exclaiming in + ecstasy, <span class="tei tei-q">“Oh, beautiful mountains!”</span> + His actions were as appropriate as his words were natural, and tears + bore witness to the reality of his emotion.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Our power was too + limited to advance the tent, so we slept at the old station, and + starting very early the next morning, passed the place where we had + turned back on the 24th, and, subsequently, my highest point on the + 19th. We found the crest of the ridge so treacherous that we took to + the cliffs on the right, although most unwillingly. Little by little + we fought our way up, but at length we were both spread-eagled on the + all but perpendicular face, unable to advance, and barely able to + descend. We returned to the ridge. It was almost equally difficult, + and infinitely more unstable; and at length, after having pushed our + attempts as far as was prudent, I determined to return to Breil, and + to have a light ladder made to assist us to overcome some of the + steepest parts.<a id="noteref_63" name="noteref_63" href= + "#note_63"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">63</span></span></a> I + expected, too, that by this time Carrel would have had enough + marmot-hunting, and would deign to accompany us + again.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page83">[pg 83]</span><a name= + "Pg083" id="Pg083" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We came down at a + great pace, for we were now so familiar with the mountain, and with + each other’s wants, that we knew immediately when to give a helping + hand, and when to let alone. The rocks also were in a better state + than I have ever seen them, being almost entirely free from glaze of + ice. Meynet was always merriest on the difficult parts, and, on the + most difficult, kept on enunciating the sentiment, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“We can only die once,”</span> which thought seemed to + afford him infinite satisfaction. We arrived at the inn early in the + evening, and I found my projects summarily and unexpectedly knocked + on the head.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Professor Tyndall + had arrived while we were absent, and he had engaged both Cæsar and + Jean-Antoine Carrel. Bennen was also with him, together with a + powerful and active friend, a Valaisan guide, named Anton Walter. + They had a ladder already prepared, provisions were being collected, + and they intended to start on the following morning (Sunday). This + new arrival took me by surprise. Bennen, it will be remembered, + refused point-blank to take Professor Tyndall on the Matterhorn in + 1861. <span class="tei tei-q">“He was dead against any attempt on the + mountain,”</span> says Tyndall. He was now eager to set out. + Professor Tyndall has not explained in what way this revolution came + about in his guide. I was equally astonished at the faithlessness of + Carrel, and attributed it to pique at our having presumed to do + without him. It was useless to compete with the Professor and his + four men, who were ready to start in a few hours, so I waited to see + what would come of their attempt.<a id="noteref_64" name="noteref_64" + href="#note_64"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">64</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Everything seemed + to favour it, and they set out on a fine morning in high spirits, + leaving me tormented with envy and all uncharitableness. If they + succeeded, they carried off the prize for which I had been so long + struggling; and if they failed, there was <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page84">[pg 84]</span><a name="Pg084" id="Pg084" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>no time to make another attempt, for I was due + in a few days more in London. When this came home clearly to me, I + resolved to leave Breil at once; but, when packing up, found that + some necessaries had been left behind in the tent. So I went off + about midday to recover them; caught the army of the Professor before + it reached the Col, as they were going very slowly; left them there + (stopping to take food), and went on to the tent. I was near to it + when all at once I heard a noise aloft, and, on looking up, perceived + a stone of at least a foot cube flying straight at my head. I ducked, + and scrambled under the lee side of a friendly rock, while the stone + went by with a loud buzz. It was the advanced guard of a perfect + storm of stones, which descended with infernal clatter down the very + edge of the ridge, leaving a trail of dust behind, with a strong + smell of sulphur, that told who had sent them. The men below were on + the look-out, but the stones did not come near them, and breaking + away on one side went down to the Glacier du Lion.<a id="noteref_65" + name="noteref_65" href="#note_65"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">65</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I waited at the + tent to welcome the Professor, and when he arrived went down to + Breil. Early next morning some one ran to me saying that a flag was + seen on the summit of the Matterhorn. It was not so, however, + although I saw that they had passed the place where we had turned + back on the 26th. I had now no doubt of their final success, for they + had got beyond the point which Carrel, not less than myself, had + always considered to be the most questionable place on the whole + mountain. Up to it there was no choice of route,—I suppose that at no + one point between it and the Col was it possible to diverge a dozen + paces to the right or left, <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page85">[pg + 85]</span><a name="Pg085" id="Pg085" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>but + beyond it it was otherwise, and we had always agreed, in our debates, + that if it could be passed success was certain. The <a href="#fig32" + class="tei tei-ref">accompanying outline</a> from a sketch taken from + the door of the inn at Breil will help to explain. The letter + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">A</span></span> indicates the position of the + Great Tower; <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">C</span></span> the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“cravate”</span> (the strongly-marked streak of snow + referred to on <a href="#Pg076" class="tei tei-ref">p. 76</a>, and + which we just failed to arrive at on the 26th); <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-weight: 700">B</span></span> the place + where we now saw something that looked like a flag. Behind the point + B a nearly level ridge leads up to the foot of the final peak, which + will be understood by a reference to the outline <a href="#plate02" + class="tei tei-ref">facing p. 44</a>, on which the same letters + indicate the same places. It was just now said, we considered that if + the point <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">C</span></span> could be passed, success was + certain. Tyndall was at <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">B</span></span> very early in the morning, and I + did not doubt that he would reach the summit, although it yet + remained problematical whether he would be able to stand on the very + highest point. The summit was evidently formed of a long ridge, on + which there were two points nearly equally elevated—so equally that + one could not say which was the highest—and between the two there + seemed to be a deep <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page86">[pg + 86]</span><a name="Pg086" id="Pg086" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>notch, marked <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-weight: 700">D</span></span> on the + outlines, which might defeat one at the very last moment.</p><a name= + "plate06" id="plate06" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus116.png" alt= + "Illustration: A cannonade on the Matterhorn (1862)" title= + "A CANNONADE ON THE MATTERHORN (1862)." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + A CANNONADE ON THE MATTERHORN (1862). + </div> + </div><a name="fig32" id="fig32" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus118.png" alt= + "Illustration: The Matterhorn from Breil" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">My knapsack was + packed, and I had taken a parting glass of wine with Favre, who was + jubilant at the success which was to make the fortune of his inn; but + I could not bring myself to leave until the result was heard, and + lingered about, as a foolish lover hovers round the object of his + affections, even after he has been contemptuously rejected. The sun + had set before the men were descried coming over the pastures. There + was no spring in their steps—they, too, were defeated. The Carrels + hid their heads, and the others said, as men will do when they have + been beaten, that the mountain was horrible, impossible, and so + forth. Professor Tyndall told me they had arrived <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">within a stone’s throw + of the summit</span></span>, and admonished me to have nothing more + to do with the mountain. I understood him to say that he should not + try again, and ran down to the village of Val Tournanche, almost + inclined to believe that the mountain was inaccessible; leaving the + tent, ropes, and other matters in the hands of Favre, to be placed at + the disposal of any person who wished to ascend it, more, I am + afraid, out of irony than from generosity. There may have been those + who believed that the Matterhorn could be ascended, but, anyhow, + their faith did not bring forth works. No one tried again in + 1862.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Business took me + into Dauphiné before returning to London, and a week after Tyndall’s + defeat I lay one night, after a sultry day, half-asleep, tossing + about in one of the abominations which serve for beds in the inn kept + by the Deputy-Mayor of La Ville de Val Louise; looking at a strange + ruddiness on the ceiling, which I thought might be some effect of + electricity produced by the irritation of the myriads of fleas; when + the great bell of the church, close at hand, pealed out with loud and + hurried clangour. I jumped up, for the voices and movements of the + people in the house made me think of fire. It <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">was</span></span> fire; + and I saw from my window, on the other side of the river, great + forked flames shooting high into the <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page87">[pg 87]</span><a name="Pg087" id="Pg087" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>sky, black dots with long shadows hurrying + towards the place, and the crests of the ridges catching the light + and standing out like spectres. All the world was in motion, for the + neighbouring villages—now aroused—rang out the alarm. I pulled on my + shirt, and tore over the bridge. Three large chalets were on fire, + and were surrounded by a mass of people, who were bringing all their + pots and pans, and anything that would hold water. They formed + themselves into several chains, each two deep, leading towards the + nearest stream, and passed the water up one side, and the empty + utensils down the other. My old friend the mayor was there, in full + force, striking the ground with his stick, and vociferating, + <span class="tei tei-q">“Work! work!”</span> but the men, with much + presence of mind, chiefly ranged themselves on the sides of the empty + buckets, and left the real work to their better halves. Their efforts + were useless, and the chalets burnt themselves out.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The next morning I + visited the still smouldering ruins, and saw the homeless families + sitting in a dismal row in front of their charred property. The + people said that one of the houses had been well insured, and that + its owner had endeavoured to forestall luck. He had arranged the + place for a bonfire, set the lower rooms on fire in several places, + and had then gone out of the way, leaving his wife and children in + the upper rooms, to be roasted or not as the case might be. His plans + only partially succeeded, and it was satisfactory to see the + scoundrel brought back in the custody of two stalwart gensdarmes. + Three days afterwards I was in London.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page88">[pg 88]</span><a name="Pg088" id="Pg088" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><a name="fig33" id="fig33" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + <hr class="page" /> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus121.png" alt= + "Illustration: But what is this?" title="“BUT WHAT IS THIS?”" /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: center">“BUT WHAT IS + THIS?”</span> + </div> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <a name="toc15" id="toc15"></a> <a name="pdf16" id="pdf16"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER V.</span></h1> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">THE VAL TOURNANCHE—DIRECT PASS FROM + BREIL TO ZERMATT (BREUILJOCH)—ZERMATT—FIRST ASCENT OF THE GRAND + TOURNALIN.</span></h1> + + <div class="tei tei-epigraph" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 9.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-lg" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-left: 1.80em; margin-top: 0.90em"> + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">How like + a winter hath my absence been</span></span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">From thee, the pleasure of a fleeting + year!</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style= + "text-align: left; margin-left: 9.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">W. + Shakespeare.</span></span> + </div> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I crossed the + Channel on the 29th of July 1863, embarrassed by the possession of + two ladders, each twelve feet long, which joined together like those + used by firemen, and shut up like parallel rulers. My luggage was + highly suggestive of housebreaking, for, besides these, there were + several coils of rope, and numerous tools of suspicious appearance, + and it was reluctantly admitted into France, but it passed through + the custom-house with less trouble than I anticipated, after a timely + expenditure of a few francs.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I am not in love + with the douane. It is the purgatory of travellers, where uncongenial + spirits mingle together for a time, before they are separated into + rich and poor. The douaniers look upon tourists as their natural + enemies; see how eagerly they pounce upon the portmanteaux! One of + them has discovered something! He has never seen its like before, and + he holds it aloft in the face of its owner, with inquisitorial + insolence. <span class="tei tei-q">“But <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">what is</span></span> + this?”</span> The <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page89">[pg + 89]</span><a name="Pg089" id="Pg089" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>explanation is only half-satisfactory. + <span class="tei tei-q">“But what is <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">this</span></span>?”</span> says he, laying hold + of a little box. <span class="tei tei-q">“Powder.”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“But that it is forbidden to carry of powder + on the railway.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Bah!”</span> says + another and older hand, <span class="tei tei-q">“pass the effects of + Monsieur;”</span> and our countryman—whose cheeks had begun to redden + under the stares of his fellow-travellers—is allowed to depart with + his half-worn tooth-brush, while the discomfited douanier gives a + mighty shrug at the strange habits of those <span class= + "tei tei-q">“whose insular position excludes them from the march of + continental ideas.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">My real troubles + commenced at Susa. The officials there, more honest and more obtuse + than the Frenchmen, declined at one and the same time to be bribed, + or to pass my baggage until a satisfactory account of it was + rendered; and, as they refused to believe the true explanation, I was + puzzled what to say, but was presently relieved from the dilemma by + one of the men, who was cleverer than his fellows, suggesting that I + was going to Turin to exhibit in the streets; that I mounted the + ladder and balanced myself on the end of it, then lighted my pipe and + put the point of the bâton in its bowl, and caused the bâton to + gyrate around my head. The rope was to keep back the spectators, and + an Englishman in my company was the agent. <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Monsieur is acrobat then?”</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Yes, certainly.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Pass + the effects of Monsieur the acrobat!”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">These ladders were + the source of endless trouble. Let us pass over the doubts of the + guardians of the Hôtel d’Europe (Trombetta), whether a person in the + possession of such questionable articles should be admitted to their + very respectable house, and get to Chatillon, at the entrance of the + Val Tournanche. A mule was chartered to carry them, and, as they were + too long to sling across its back, they were arranged lengthways, and + one end projected over the animal’s head, while the other extended + beyond its tail. A mule when going up or down hill always moves with + a jerky action, and in consequence of this the ladders hit my mule + severe blows between its ears and in its flanks. The beast, not + knowing what strange creature it had on its back, naturally tossed + its head and threw out <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page90">[pg + 90]</span><a name="Pg090" id="Pg090" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>its + legs, and this, of course, only made the blows that it received more + severe. At last it ran away, and would have perished by rolling down + a precipice, if the men had not caught hold of its tail. The end of + the matter was that a man had to follow the mule, holding the end of + the ladders, which obliged him to move his arms up and down + incessantly, and to bow to the hind quarters of the animal in a way + that afforded more amusement to his comrades than it did to him.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I was once more + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">en + route</span></span> for the Matterhorn, for I had heard in the spring + of 1863 the cause of the failure of Professor Tyndall, and learnt + that the case was not so hopeless as it appeared to be at one time. I + found that he arrived as far only as the northern end of <span class= + "tei tei-q">“the shoulder.”</span> The point at which he says,<a id= + "noteref_66" name="noteref_66" href="#note_66"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">66</span></span></a> they + <span class="tei tei-q">“sat down with broken hopes, the summit + within a stone’s throw of us, but still defying us,”</span> was not + the notch or cleft at <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">D</span></span> (which is literally within a stone’s + throw of the summit), but another and more formidable cleft that + intervenes between the northern end of <span class="tei tei-q">“the + shoulder”</span> and the commencement of the final peak. It is marked + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">E</span></span> + on the outline which <a href="#plate02" class="tei tei-ref">faces p. + 44</a>. Carrel and all the men who had been with me knew of the + existence of this cleft, and of the pinnacle which rose between it + and the final peak;<a id="noteref_67" name="noteref_67" href= + "#note_67"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">67</span></span></a> and we + had frequently talked about the best manner of passing the place. On + this we disagreed, but we were both of opinion that when we got to + <span class="tei tei-q">“the shoulder,”</span> it would be necessary + to bear down gradually to the right or to the left, to avoid coming + to the top of the notch. Tyndall’s party, after arriving at + <span class="tei tei-q">“the shoulder,”</span> was led by his guides + along the crest of the ridge, and, consequently, when they got to its + northern end, they came to the top of the notch, instead of the + bottom—to the dismay of all but the Carrels. Dr. Tyndall’s words are, + <span class="tei tei-q">“The ridge was here split by a deep cleft + which separated it from the final precipice, and the case became more + hopeless as we came more near.”</span> The Professor adds, + <span class="tei tei-q">“The mountain is 14,800 <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page91">[pg 91]</span><a name="Pg091" id="Pg091" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>feet high, and 14,600 feet had been + accomplished.”</span> He greatly deceived himself; by the barometric + measurements of Signor Giordano the notch is no less than 800 feet + below the summit. The guide Walter (Dr. Tyndall says) said it was + impossible to proceed, and the Carrels, appealed to for their opinion + (this is their own account), gave as an answer, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“We are porters; ask your guides.”</span> Bennen, thus + left to himself, <span class="tei tei-q">“was finally forced to + accept defeat.”</span> Tyndall had nevertheless accomplished an + advance of about 400 feet over one of the most difficult parts of the + mountain.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">There are material + discrepancies between the published narratives of Professor + Tyndall<a id="noteref_68" name="noteref_68" href= + "#note_68"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">68</span></span></a> and the + verbal accounts of the Carrels. The former says the men had to be + <span class="tei tei-q">“urged on,”</span> that <span class= + "tei tei-q">“they pronounced flatly against the final + precipice,”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“they yielded so + utterly,”</span> and that Bennen said, in answer to a final appeal + made to him, <span class="tei tei-q">“ <span class="tei tei-q">‘What + could I do, sir? not one of them would accompany me.’</span> It was + the accurate truth.”</span> Jean-Antoine Carrel says that when + Professor Tyndall gave the order to turn <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">he</span></span> would + have advanced to examine the route, as he did not think that farther + progress was impossible, but he was stopped by the Professor, and was + naturally obliged to follow the others.<a id="noteref_69" name= + "noteref_69" href="#note_69"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">69</span></span></a> These + disagreements may <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page92">[pg + 92]</span><a name="Pg092" id="Pg092" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>well + be left to be settled by those who are concerned. Tyndall, Walter, + and Bennen, now disappear from this history.<a id="noteref_70" name= + "noteref_70" href="#note_70"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">70</span></span></a></p><a name="ill092" + id="ill092" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="fig34" id="fig34" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus125.png" alt= + "Illustration: An arch of the aqueduct in the Val Tournanche" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Val Tournanche + is one of the most charming valleys in the Italian Alps; it is a + paradise to an artist, and if the space at my command were greater, I + would willingly linger over its groves of chestnuts, its bright + trickling rills and its roaring torrents, its upland unsuspected + valleys and its noble cliffs. The path rises steeply from Chatillon, + but it is well shaded, and the heat of the summer sun is tempered by + cool air and spray which comes off the ice-cold streams.<a id= + "noteref_71" name="noteref_71" href="#note_71"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">71</span></span></a> One sees + from the path, at several places on the right bank of the valley, + groups of arches which have been built high up against the faces of + the cliffs. Guide-books repeat—on whose authority I know not—that + they are the remains of a Roman aqueduct. They have the Roman + boldness of conception, but the work has not the usual Roman + solidity. The arches have always seemed to me to be the remains of an + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">unfinished</span></span> work, and I learn from + Jean-Antoine Carrel that there are other groups of arches, which are + not seen from the path, all having the same appearance. It may be + questioned whether those seen near the village of Antey are Roman. + Some of them are semicircular, whilst others are distinctly pointed. + <a href="#fig34" class="tei tei-ref">Here</a> is one of the latter, + which might pass for fourteenth-century work, or later;—a two-centred + arch, with mean voussoirs, and the masonry in rough courses. These + arches are well worth the attention of an archæologist, but some + difficulty will be found in approaching them closely.</p><span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page93">[pg 93]</span><a name="Pg093" id="Pg093" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We sauntered up + the valley, and got to Breil when all were asleep. A halo round the + moon promised watery weather, and we were not disappointed, for, on + the next day (August 1), rain fell heavily, and when the clouds + lifted for a time, we saw that new snow lay thickly over everything + higher than 9000 feet. J.-A. Carrel was ready and waiting (as I had + determined to give the bold cragsman another chance); and he did not + need to say that the Matterhorn would be impracticable for several + days after all this new snow, even if the weather were to arrange + itself at once. Our first day together was accordingly spent upon a + neighbouring summit, the Cimes Blanches; a degraded mountain, well + known for its fine panoramic view. It was little that we saw; for, in + every direction except to the south, writhing masses of heavy clouds + obscured everything; and to the south our view was intercepted by a + peak higher than the Cimes Blanches, named the Grand Tournalin.<a id= + "noteref_72" name="noteref_72" href="#note_72"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">72</span></span></a> But we + got some innocent pleasure out of watching the gambolings of a number + of goats, who became fast friends after we had given them some salt; + in fact, too fast, and caused us no little annoyance when we were + descending. <span class="tei tei-q">“Carrel,”</span> I said, as a + number of stones whizzed by which they had dislodged, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“this must be put a stop to.”</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Diable!”</span> he grunted, <span class="tei tei-q">“it + is very well to talk, but how will you do it?”</span> I said that I + would try; and, sitting down, poured a little brandy into the hollow + of my hand, and allured the nearest goat with deceitful gestures. It + was one who had gobbled up the paper in which the salt had been + carried—an animal of enterprising character—and it advanced + fearlessly and licked up the brandy. I shall not easily forget its + surprise. It stopped short, and coughed, and looked at me as much as + to say, <span class="tei tei-q">“Oh, you cheat!”</span> and spat and + ran away; stopping now and then to cough and spit again. We were not + troubled any more by those goats.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">More snow fell + during the night, and our attempt on the Matterhorn was postponed + indefinitely. As there was nothing to <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page94">[pg 94]</span><a name="Pg094" id="Pg094" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>be done at Breil, I determined to make the tour + of the mountain, and commenced by inventing a pass from Breil to + Zermatt,<a id="noteref_73" name="noteref_73" href= + "#note_73"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">73</span></span></a> in place + of the hackneyed Théodule. Any one who looks at the map will see that + the latter pass makes a considerable détour to the east, and, + apparently, goes out of the way. I thought that it was possible to + strike out a shorter route, both in distance and in time, and we set + out on the 3rd of August, to carry out the idea. We followed the + Théodule path for some time, but quitted it when it bore away to the + east, and kept straight on until we struck the moraine of the Mont + Cervin glacier. Our track still continued in a straight line up the + centre of the glacier to the foot of a tooth of rock, which juts + prominently out of the ridge (Furggengrat) connecting the Matterhorn + with the Théodulehorn. The head of the glacier was connected with + this little peak by a steep bank of snow; but we were able to go + straight up, and struck the Col at its lowest point, a little to the + right (that is to say, to the east) of the above-mentioned peak. On + the north there was a snow-slope corresponding to that on the other + side. Half-an-hour took us to its base. We then bore away over the + nearly level plateau of the Furggengletscher, making a straight track + to the Hörnli, from whence we descended to Zermatt by one of the + well-known paths. This pass has been dubbed the Breuiljoch by the + Swiss surveyors. It is a few feet higher than the Théodule, and it + may be recommended to those who are familiar with that pass, as it + gives equally fine views, and is accessible at all times. But it will + never be frequented like the Théodule, as the snow-slope at its + summit, at certain times, will require the use of the axe. It took us + six hours and a quarter to go from one place to the other, which was + an hour longer than we would have occupied by the Théodule, although + the distance in miles is less.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is stated in + one of the MS. note-books of the late Principal J. D. Forbes, that + this depression, now called the Breuiljoch, was formerly <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">the</span></span> pass + between the Val Tournanche and Zermatt, and that it was abandoned for + the Théodule in consequence of changes <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page95">[pg 95]</span><a name="Pg095" id="Pg095" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>in the glaciers.<a id="noteref_74" name= + "noteref_74" href="#note_74"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">74</span></span></a> The + authority for the statement was not given. I presume it was from + local tradition, but I readily credit it; for, before the time that + the glaciers had shrunk to so great an extent, the steep snow-slopes + above mentioned, in all probability, did not exist; and, most likely, + the glaciers led by very gentle gradients up to the summit; in which + case the route would have formed the natural highway between the two + places. It is far from impossible, if the glaciers continue to + diminish at their present rapid rate,<a id="noteref_75" name= + "noteref_75" href="#note_75"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">75</span></span></a> that the + Théodule itself, the easiest and the most frequented of all the + higher Alpine passes, may, in the course of a few years, become + somewhat difficult; and if this should be the case, the prosperity of + Zermatt will probably suffer.<a id="noteref_76" name="noteref_76" + href="#note_76"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">76</span></span></a></p><span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page96">[pg 96]</span><a name="Pg096" id="Pg096" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Carrel and I + wandered out again in the afternoon, and went, first of all, to a + favourite spot with tourists near the end of the Gorner glacier (or, + properly speaking, the Boden glacier), to a little verdant + flat—studded with <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Euphrasia officinalis</span></span>—the delight + of swarms of bees, who gather there the honey which afterwards + appears at the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">table d’hôte</span></span>.</p><a name="fig35" + id="fig35" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus129.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: Water-worn rocks in the gorge below the Gorner Glacier" + title="WATER-WORN ROCKS IN THE GORGE BELOW THE GORNER GLACIER." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + WATER-WORN ROCKS IN THE GORGE BELOW THE GORNER GLACIER. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On our right the + glacier-torrent thundered down the valley <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page97">[pg 97]</span><a name="Pg097" id="Pg097" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>through a gorge with precipitous sides, not + easily approached; for the turf at the top was slippery, and the + rocks had everywhere been rounded by the glacier,—which formerly + extended far away. This gorge seems to have been made chiefly by the + torrent, and to have been excavated subsequently to the retreat of + the glacier. It seems so because not merely upon its walls are there + the marks of running water, but even upon the rounded rocks at the + top of its walls, at a height of seventy or eighty feet above the + present level of the torrent, there are some of those queer + concavities which rapid streams alone are known to produce on + rocks.</p><a name="fig36" id="fig36" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus130.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: Striations produced by glacier-action (at Grindelwald)" + title="STRIATIONS PRODUCED BY GLACIER-ACTION (AT GRINDELWALD)." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + STRIATIONS PRODUCED BY GLACIER-ACTION (AT GRINDELWALD). + </div> + </div><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page98">[pg 98]</span><a name= + "Pg098" id="Pg098" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A little bridge, + apparently frail, spans the torrent just above the entrance to this + gorge, and from it one perceives, being fashioned in the rocks below, + concavities similar to those to which reference has just been made. + The torrent is seen hurrying forwards. Not everywhere. In some places + the water strikes projecting angles, and, thrown back by them, + remains almost stationary, eddying round and round: in others, + obstructions fling it up in fountains, which play perpetually on the + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">under</span></span> surfaces of overhanging + masses; and sometimes do so in such a way that the water not only + works upon the under surfaces, but round the corner; that is to say, + upon the surfaces which are <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">not</span></span> opposed to the general + direction of the current. In all cases <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">concavities</span></span> are being produced. + Projecting angles are rounded, it is true, and are more or less + convex, but they are overlooked on account of the prevalence of + concave forms.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Cause and effect + help each other here. The inequalities of the torrent bed and walls + cause its eddyings, and the eddies fashion the concavities. The more + profound the latter become, the more disturbance is caused in the + water. The destruction of the rocks proceeds at an ever-increasing + rate; for the larger the amount of surface that is exposed, the + greater are the opportunities for the assaults of heat and cold.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When water is in + the form of glacier it has not the power of making concavities, such + as these, in rocks, and of working upon surfaces which are not + opposed to the direction of the current. Its nature is changed; it + operates in a different way, and it leaves marks which are readily + distinguished from those produced by torrent-action.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The prevailing + forms which result from glacier-action are more or less <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">convex</span></span>. + Ultimately, all angles and almost all curves are obliterated, and + large areas of flat surfaces are produced. This perfection of + abrasion is rarely found, except in such localities as have sustained + a grinding much more severe than that which has occurred in the Alps; + and, generally speaking, the dictum of the veteran <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page99">[pg 99]</span><a name="Pg099" id="Pg099" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>geologist Studer, quoted below, is + undoubtedly true.<a id="noteref_77" name="noteref_77" href= + "#note_77"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">77</span></span></a> Not + merely can the operations of extinct glaciers be traced in detail by + means of the bosses of rock popularly termed <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">roches + moutonnées</span></span>, but their effects in the aggregate, on a + range of mountains or an entire country, can be recognised sometimes + at a distance of fifteen or twenty miles from the incessant + repetition of these convex forms.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We finished up the + 3d of August with a walk over the Findelen glacier, and returned to + Zermatt at a later hour than we intended, both very sleepy. This is + noteworthy only on account of that which followed. We had to cross + the Col de Valpelline on the next day, and an early start was + desirable. Monsieur Seiler, excellent man, knowing this, called us + himself, and when he came to my door, I answered, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“All right, Seiler, I will get up,”</span> and + immediately turned over to the other side, saying to myself, + <span class="tei tei-q">“First of all, ten minutes more + sleep.”</span> But Seiler waited and listened, and, suspecting the + case, knocked again. <span class="tei tei-q">“Herr Whymper, have you + got a light?”</span> Without thinking what the consequences might be, + I answered, <span class="tei tei-q">“No,”</span> and then the worthy + man actually forced the lock off his own door to give me one. By + similar and equally friendly and disinterested acts, Monsieur Seiler + has acquired his enviable reputation.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At 4 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> we left + his Monte Rosa Hotel, and were soon pushing our way through the + thickets of grey alder that skirt the path up the right bank of the + exquisite little valley which leads to the Z’Muttgletscher.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Nothing can well + seem more inaccessible than the Matterhorn upon this side; and even + in cold blood one holds the breath when looking at its stupendous + cliffs. There are but few equal to them in size in the Alps, and + there are none which can more truly be termed <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">precipices</span></span>. Greatest of them all + is the immense north cliff,—that which bends over towards the + Z’Muttgletscher. Stones which drop <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page100">[pg 100]</span><a name="Pg100" id="Pg100" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>from the top of that amazing wall fall for about + 1500 feet before they touch anything; and those which roll down from + above, and bound over it, fall to a much greater depth, and leap + well-nigh 1000 feet beyond its base. This side of the mountain has + always seemed sombre—sad—terrible; it is painfully suggestive of + decay, ruin, and death; and it is now, alas! more than terrible by + its associations.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“There is no aspect of destruction about the Matterhorn + cliffs,”</span> says Professor Ruskin. Granted;—when they are seen + from afar. But approach, and sit down by the side of the + Z’Muttgletscher, and you will hear that their piecemeal destruction + is proceeding ceaselessly—incessantly. You will <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">hear</span></span>, + but, probably, you will not <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">see</span></span>; for even when the descending + masses thunder as loudly as heavy guns, and the echoes roll back from + the Ebihorn opposite, they will still be as pin-points against this + grand old face, so vast is its scale!</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">If you would see + the <span class="tei tei-q">“aspects of destruction,”</span> you must + come still closer, and climb its cliffs and ridges, or mount to the + plateau of the Matterhorngletscher, which is cut up and ploughed up + by these missiles, and strewn on its surface with their smaller + fragments; the larger masses, falling with tremendous velocity, + plunge into the snow and are lost to sight.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The + Matterhorngletscher, too, sends down <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">its</span></span> + avalanches, as if in rivalry with the rocks behind. Round the whole + of its northern side it does not terminate in the usual manner by + gentle slopes, but comes to a sudden end at the top of the steep + rocks which lie betwixt it and the Z’Muttgletscher; and seldom does + an hour pass without a huge slice breaking away and falling with + dreadful uproar on to the slopes below, where it is re-compacted.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The desolate, + outside pines of the Z’Mutt forests, stripped of their bark, and + blanched by the weather, are a fit foreground to a scene that can + hardly be surpassed in solemn grandeur. It is a subject worthy of the + pencil of a great painter, and one which would tax the powers of the + very greatest.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page101">[pg + 101]</span><a name="Pg101" id="Pg101" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Higher up the + glacier the mountain appeared less savage although not less + inaccessible; and, about three hours later, when we arrived at the + island of rock, called the Stockje (which marks the end of the + Z’Muttgletscher proper, and which separates its higher feeder, the + Stockgletscher, from its lower and greater one, the Tiefenmatten), + Carrel himself, one of the least demonstrative of men, could not + refrain from expressing wonder at the steepness of its faces, and at + the audacity that had prompted us to camp upon the south-west ridge; + the profile of which is seen very well from the Stockje.<a id= + "noteref_78" name="noteref_78" href="#note_78"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">78</span></span></a> Carrel + then saw the north and north-west sides of the mountain for the first + time, and was more firmly persuaded than ever that an ascent was + possible <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">only</span></span> from the direction of + Breil.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Three years + afterwards I was traversing the same spot with the guide Franz + Biener, when all at once a puff of wind brought to us a very bad + smell; and, on looking about, we discovered a dead chamois half-way + up the southern cliffs of the Stockje. We clambered up, and found + that it had been killed by a most uncommon and extraordinary + accident. It had slipped on the upper rocks, had rolled over and over + down a slope of débris, without being able to regain its feet, had + fallen over a little patch of rocks that projected through the + débris, and had caught the points of both horns on a tiny ledge, not + an inch broad. It had just been able to touch the débris, where it + led away down from the rocks, and had pawed and scratched until it + could no longer touch. It had evidently been starved to death, and we + found the poor beast almost swinging in the air, with its head thrown + back and tongue protruding, looking to the sky as if imploring + help.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page102">[pg + 102]</span><a name="Pg102" id="Pg102" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We had no such + excitement as this in 1863, and crossed this easy pass to the châlets + of Prerayen in a very leisurely fashion. From the summit to Prerayen + let us descend in one step. The way has been described before; and + those who wish for information about it should consult the + description of Mr. Jacomb, the discoverer of the pass. Nor need we + stop at Prerayen, except to remark that the owner of the châlets (who + is usually taken for a common herdsman) must not be judged by + appearances. He is a man of substance; he has many flocks and herds; + and although, when approached politely, is courteous, he can (and + probably will) act as the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">master</span></span> of Prerayen, if his + position is <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">not</span></span> recognised, and with all the + importance of a man who pays taxes to the extent of 500 francs per + annum to his government.</p><a name="fig37" id="fig37" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus135.png" alt= + "Illustration: Chamois in difficulties" title= + "CHAMOIS IN DIFFICULTIES." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + CHAMOIS IN DIFFICULTIES. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The hill-tops were + clouded when we rose from our hay on the 5th of August. We decided + not to continue the tour of our <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page103">[pg 103]</span><a name="Pg103" id="Pg103" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>mountain immediately, and returned over our + track of the preceding day to the highest châlet on the left bank of + the valley, with the intention of attacking the Dent d’Erin on the + next morning. We were interested in this summit, more on account of + the excellent view which it commanded of the south-west ridge and the + terminal peak of the Matterhorn, than from any other reason.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Dent d’Erin + had not been ascended at this time, and we had diverged from our + route on the 4th, and had scrambled some distance up the base of Mont + Brulé, to see how far its south-western slopes were assailable. We + were divided in opinion as to the best way of approaching the peak. + Carrel, true to his habit of sticking to rocks in preference to ice, + counselled ascending by the long buttress of the Tête de Bella Cia + (which descends towards the west, and forms the southern boundary of + the last glacier that falls into the Glacier de Zardesan), and thence + traversing the heads of all the tributaries of the Zardesan to the + western and rocky ridge of the Dent. I, on the other hand, proposed + to follow the Glacier de Zardesan itself throughout its entire + length, and from the plateau at its head (where my proposed route + would cross Carrel’s) to make directly towards the summit, up the + snow-covered glacier slope, instead of by the western ridge. The + hunchback, who was accompanying us on these excursions, declared in + favour of Carrel’s route, and it was accordingly adopted.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The first part of + the programme was successfully executed; and at 10.30 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> on the + 6th of August, we were sitting astride the western ridge, at a height + of about 12,500 feet, looking down upon the Tiefenmatten glacier. To + all appearance another hour would place us on the summit; but in + another hour we found that we were not destined to succeed. The ridge + (like all of the principal rocky ridges of the great peaks upon which + I have stood) had been completely shattered by frost, and was nothing + more than a heap of piled up fragments. It was always narrow, + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page104">[pg 104]</span><a name="Pg104" + id="Pg104" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and where it was narrowest it + was also the most unstable and the most difficult. On neither side + could we ascend it by keeping a little below its crest,—on the side + of the Tiefenmatten because it was too steep, and on both sides + because the dislodgment of a single block would have disturbed the + equilibrium of all those which were above. Forced, therefore, to keep + to the very crest of the ridge, and unable to deviate a single step + either to the right or to the left, we were compelled to trust + ourselves upon unsteady masses, which trembled under our tread, which + sometimes settled down, grating in a hollow and ominous manner, and + which seemed as if a little shake would send the whole roaring down + in one awful avalanche.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I followed my + leader, who said not a word, and did not rebel until we came to a + place where a block had to be surmounted which lay poised across the + ridge. Carrel could not climb it without assistance, or advance + beyond it until I joined him above; and as he stepped off my back on + to it, I felt it quiver and bear down upon me. I doubted the + possibility of another man standing upon it without bringing it down. + Then I rebelled. There was no honour to be gained by persevering, or + dishonour in turning from a place which was dangerous on account of + its excessive difficulty. So we returned to Prerayen, for there was + too little time to allow us to re-ascend by the other route, which + was subsequently shown to be the right way up the mountain.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Four days + afterwards a party of Englishmen (including my friends, W. E. Hall, + Craufurd Grove, and Reginald Macdonald), arrived in the Valpelline, + and (unaware of our attempt) on the 12th, under the skilful guidance + of Melchior Anderegg, made the first ascent of the Dent d’Erin by the + route which I had proposed. This is the only mountain which I have + essayed to ascend, that has not, sooner or later, fallen to me. Our + failure was mortifying, yet I am satisfied that we did wisely in + returning, and that if we had persevered, by Carrel’s route, another + Alpine accident would have been recorded. Other routes have been + since discovered up <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page105">[pg + 105]</span><a name="Pg105" id="Pg105" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the + Dent d’Erin. The ascent ranks amongst the more difficult ones which + have been made in the Alps.<a id="noteref_79" name="noteref_79" href= + "#note_79"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">79</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On the 7th of + August we crossed the Va Cornère pass,<a id="noteref_80" name= + "noteref_80" href="#note_80"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">80</span></span></a> and had + a good look at the mountain named the Grand Tournalin as we descended + the Val de Chignana. This mountain was seen from so many points, and + was so much higher than any peak in its immediate neighbourhood, that + it was bound to give a very fine view; and (as the weather continued + unfavourable for the Matterhorn) I arranged with Carrel to ascend it + the next day, and despatched him direct to the village of Val + Tournanche to make the necessary preparations, whilst I, with Meynet, + made a short cut to Breil, at the back of Mont Panquero, by a little + pass locally known as the Col de Fenêtre. I rejoined Carrel the same + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page106">[pg 106]</span><a name="Pg106" + id="Pg106" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>evening at Val Tournanche, and + we started from that place at a little before 5 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> on the + 8th, to attack the Tournalin.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Meynet was left + behind for that day, and most unwillingly did the hunchback part from + us, and begged hard to be allowed to come. <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Pay me nothing, only let me go with you;”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“I shall want but a little bread and cheese, + and of that I won’t eat much;”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“I + would much rather go with you than carry things down the + valley.”</span> Such were his arguments, and I was really sorry that + the rapidity of our movements obliged us to desert the good little + man.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Carrel led over + the meadows on the south and east of the bluff upon which the village + of Val Tournanche is built, and then by a zig-zag path through a long + and steep forest, making many short cuts, which showed he had a + thorough knowledge of the ground. After we came again into daylight, + our route took us up one of those little, concealed, lateral valleys + which are so numerous on the slopes bounding the Val Tournanche.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This valley, the + Combe de Ceneil, has a general easterly trend, and contains but one + small cluster of houses (Ceneil). The Tournalin is situated at the + head of the Combe, and nearly due east of the village of Val + Tournanche, but from that place no part of the mountain is visible. + After Ceneil is passed it comes into view, rising above a cirque of + cliffs (streaked by several fine waterfalls), at the end of the + Combe. To avoid these cliffs the path bends somewhat to the south, + keeping throughout to the left bank of the valley, and at about 3500 + feet above Val Tournanche, and 1500 feet above Ceneil and a mile or + so to its east, arrives at the base of some moraines, which are + remarkably large considering the dimensions of the glaciers which + formed them. The ranges upon the western side of the Val Tournanche + are seen to great advantage from this spot; and here the path ends + and the way steepens.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When we arrived at + these moraines, we had a choice of two routes. One, continuing to the + east, over the moraines themselves, the débris above them, and a + large snow-bed still higher up, to a <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page107">[pg 107]</span><a name="Pg107" id="Pg107" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>kind of <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">col</span></span> or depression to the + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">south</span></span> of the peak, from whence an + easy ridge led towards the summit. The other, over a shrunken glacier + on our north-east (now, perhaps, not in existence), which led to a + well-marked <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">col</span></span> on the <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">north</span></span> of + the peak, from whence a less easy ridge rose directly to the highest + point. We followed the first named of these routes, and in little + more than half-an-hour stood upon the Col, which commanded a most + glorious view of the southern side of Monte Rosa, and of the ranges + to its east, and to the east of the Val d’Ayas.</p><a name="plate07" + id="plate07" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus141.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: They scattered in a panic when saluted by the cries of my excited comrade" + title= + "“THEY SCATTERED IN A PANIC WHEN SALUTED BY THE CRIES OF MY EXCITED COMRADE.”" /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: center">“THEY + SCATTERED IN A PANIC WHEN SALUTED BY THE CRIES OF MY EXCITED + COMRADE.”</span> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Whilst we were + resting at this point, a large party of vagrant chamois arrived on + the summit of the mountain from the northern side, some of whom—by + their statuesque position—seemed to appreciate the grand panorama by + which they were surrounded, while others amused themselves, like + two-legged tourists, in rolling stones over the cliffs. The clatter + of these falling fragments made us look up. The chamois were so + numerous that we could not count them, and clustered around the + summit, totally unaware of our presence. They scattered in a panic, + as if a shell had burst amongst them, when saluted by the cries of my + excited comrade; and plunged wildly down in several directions, with + unfaltering and unerring bounds, with such speed and with such grace + that we were filled with admiration and respect for their + mountaineering abilities.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The ridge that led + from the Col towards the summit was singularly easy, although well + broken up by frost, and Carrel thought that it would not be difficult + to arrange a path for mules out of the shattered blocks; but when we + arrived on the summit we found ourselves separated from the very + highest point by a cleft which had been concealed up to that time: + its southern side was nearly perpendicular, but it was only fourteen + or fifteen feet deep. Carrel lowered me down, and afterwards + descended on to the head of my axe, and subsequently on to my + shoulders, with a cleverness which was almost as far removed from my + awkwardness as his own efforts were from those of the chamois. A few + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page108">[pg 108]</span><a name="Pg108" + id="Pg108" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>easy steps then placed us on + the highest point. It had not been ascended before, and we + commemorated the event by building a huge cairn, which was seen for + many a mile, and would have lasted for many a year, had it not been + thrown down by the orders of Canon Carrel, on account of its + interrupting the sweep of a camera which he took to the lower summit + in 1868, in order to photograph the panorama. According to that + well-known mountaineer the summit of the Grand Tournalin is 6100 feet + above the village of Val Tournanche, and 11,155 feet above the sea. + Its ascent (including halts) occupied us only four hours.</p><a name= + "fig38" id="fig38" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus143.png" alt= + "Illustration: Carrell lowered me down" title= + "“CARREL LOWERED ME DOWN.”" /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: center">“CARREL + LOWERED ME DOWN.”</span> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I recommend any + person who has a day to spare in the Val Tournanche to ascend the + Tournalin. It should be remembered, however (if its ascent is made + for the sake of the view), that these southern Pennine Alps seldom + remain unclouded after mid-day, and, indeed, frequently not later + than 10 or 11 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> Towards sunset the equilibrium of + the atmosphere is restored, and the clouds very commonly + disappear.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I advise the + ascent of this mountain not on account of its height, or from its + accessibility or inaccessibility, but simply for the wide and + splendid view which may be seen from its summit. Its position is + superb, and the list of the peaks which can be seen from it includes + almost the whole of the principal mountains of the Cottian, Dauphiné, + Graian, Pennine, and Oberland groups. The view has, in the highest + perfection, those elements of picturesqueness which are wanting in + the purely panoramic views of higher <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page109">[pg 109]</span><a name="Pg109" id="Pg109" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>summits. There are three principal sections, + each with a central or dominating point, to which the eye is + naturally drawn. All three alike are pictures in themselves; yet all + are dissimilar. In the south, softened by the vapours of the Val + d’Aoste, extends the long line of the Graians, with mountain after + mountain 12,000 feet and upwards in height. It is not upon these, + noble as some of them are, that the eye will rest, but upon the Viso, + far off in the background. In the west and towards the north the + range of Mont Blanc, and some of the greatest of the Central Pennine + Alps (including the Grand Combin and the Dent Blanche) form the + background, but they are overpowered by the grandeur of the ridges + which culminate in the Matterhorn. Nor in the east and north, where + pleasant grassy slopes lead downwards to the Val d’Ayas, nor upon the + glaciers and snow-fields above them, nor upon the Oberland in the + background, will the eye long linger, when immediately in front, + several miles away, but seeming close at hand, thrown out by the pure + azure sky, there are the glittering crests of Monte Rosa.</p><a name= + "fig39" id="fig39" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus144.png" alt= + "Illustration: The late Canon Carrell, of Aosta" title= + "THE LATE CANON CARREL, OF AOSTA." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE LATE CANON CARREL, OF AOSTA. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Those who would, + but cannot, stand upon the highest Alps, may console themselves with + the knowledge that they do not usually yield the views that make the + strongest and most permanent impressions. Marvellous some of the + panoramas seen from the greatest peaks undoubtedly are; but they are + necessarily without those isolated and central points which are so + valuable pictorially. The eye roams over a multitude of objects + (each, perhaps, grand individually), and, distracted by an + embarrassment of riches, wanders from one to another, erasing by the + contemplation of the <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page110">[pg + 110]</span><a name="Pg110" id="Pg110" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>next + the effect that was produced by the last; and when those happy + moments are over, which always fly with too great rapidity, the + summit is left with an impression that is seldom durable, because it + is usually vague.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">No views create + such lasting impressions as those which are seen but for a moment, + when a veil of mist is rent in twain, and a single spire or dome is + disclosed. The peaks which are seen at these moments are not, + perhaps, the greatest or the noblest, but the recollection of them + outlives the memory of any panoramic view, because the picture, + photographed by the eye, has time to dry, instead of being blurred, + while yet wet, by contact with other impressions. The reverse is the + case with the bird’s-eye panoramic views from the great peaks, which + sometimes embrace a hundred miles in nearly every direction. The eye + is confounded by the crowd of details, and is unable to distinguish + the relative importance of the objects which are seen. It is almost + as difficult to form a just estimate (with the eye) of the respective + heights of a number of peaks from a very high summit, as it is from + the bottom of a valley. I think that the grandest and the most + satisfactory standpoints for viewing mountain scenery are those which + are sufficiently elevated to give a feeling of depth, as well as of + height, which are lofty enough to exhibit wide and varied views, but + not so high as to sink everything to the level of the spectator. The + view from the Grand Tournalin is a favourable example of this class + of panoramic views.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We descended from + the summit by the northern route, and found it tolerably stiff + clambering as far as the Col. Thence, down the glacier, the way was + straightforward, and we joined the route taken on the ascent at the + foot of the ridge leading towards the east. In the evening we + returned to Breil.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">There is an abrupt + rise in the valley about two miles to the north of the village of Val + Tournanche, and just above this step the torrent has eaten its way + into its bed and formed an extraordinary chasm, which has long been + known by the name Gouffre <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page111">[pg + 111]</span><a name="Pg111" id="Pg111" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>des + Busserailles. We lingered about this spot to listen to the thunder of + the concealed water, and to watch its tumultuous boiling as it issued + from the gloomy cleft, but our efforts to peer into the mysteries of + the place were baffled. In November 1865, the intrepid Carrel induced + two trusty comrades—the Maquignaz’s of Val Tournanche—to lower him by + a rope into the chasm and over the cataract. The feat required iron + nerves, and muscles and sinews of no ordinary kind; and its + performance alone stamps Carrel as a man of dauntless courage. One of + the Maquignaz’s subsequently descended in the same way, and these two + men were so astonished at what they saw, that they forthwith set to + work with hammer and chisel to make a way into this romantic gulf. In + a few days they constructed a rough but convenient plank gallery into + the centre of the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">gouffre</span></span>, along its walls; and, on + payment of a toll of half a franc, any one can now enter the Gouffre + des Busserailles.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I cannot, without + a couple of sections and a plan, give an exact idea to the reader of + this remarkable place. It corresponds in some of its features to the + gorge <a href="#fig35" class="tei tei-ref">figured upon page 96</a>, + but it exhibits in a much more notable manner the characteristic + action and extraordinary power of running water. The length of the + chasm or <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">gouffre</span></span> is about 320 feet, and + from the top of its walls to the surface of the water is about 110 + feet. At no part can the entire length or depth be seen at a glance; + for, although the width at some places is 15 feet or more, the view + is limited by the sinuosities of the walls. These are everywhere + polished to a smooth, vitreous-in-appearance surface. In some places + the torrent has wormed into the rock, and has left natural bridges. + The most extraordinary features of the Gouffre des Busserailles, + however, are the caverns (or <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">marmites</span></span> as they are termed), + which the water has hollowed out of the heart of the rock. Carrel’s + plank path leads into one of the greatest,—a grotto that is about 28 + feet across at its largest diameter, and 15 or 16 feet high; roofed + above by the living rock, and with the torrent roaring 50 feet or + there<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page112">[pg 112]</span><a name= + "Pg112" id="Pg112" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>abouts below, at the + bottom of a fissure. This cavern is lighted by candles, and talking + in it can only be managed by signs.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I visited the + interior of the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">gouffre</span></span> in 1869, and my wonder at + its caverns was increased by observing the hardness of the hornblende + out of which they have been hollowed. Carrel chiselled off a large + piece, which is now lying before me. It has a highly polished, glassy + surface, and might be mistaken, for a moment, for ice-polished rock. + But the water has found out the atoms which were least hard, and it + is dotted all over by minute depressions, much as the face of one is + who has suffered from smallpox. The edges of these little hollows are + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">rounded</span></span>, and the whole surfaces of + the depressions are polished nearly, or quite, as highly as the + general surface of the fragment. The water has eaten more deeply into + some veins of steatite than in other places, and the presence of the + steatite may possibly have had something to do with the formation of + the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">gouffre</span></span>.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I arrived at Breil + again after an absence of six days, well satisfied with my tour of + the Matterhorn, which had been rendered very pleasant by the + willingness of my guides, and by the kindliness of the natives. + Still, it must be admitted that the inhabitants of the Val Tournanche + are behind the times. Their paths are as bad as, or worse than, they + were in the time of De Saussure, and their inns are much inferior to + those on the Swiss side. If it were otherwise there would be nothing + to prevent the valley becoming one of the most popular and frequented + of all the valleys in the Alps. As it is, tourists who enter it seem + to think only about how soon they can get out of it, and hence it is + much less known than it deserves to be on account of its natural + attractions.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I believe that the + great hindrance to the improvement of the paths in the Italian + valleys generally is the wide-spread impression that the innkeepers + would alone directly benefit by any amelioration of their condition. + To a certain extent this view is correct; but inasmuch as the + prosperity of the natives is connected with that of the innkeepers, + the interests of both are pretty nearly identical. <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page113">[pg 113]</span><a name="Pg113" id="Pg113" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>Until their paths are rendered less rough + and swampy, I think the Italians must submit to see the golden + harvest principally reaped in Switzerland and Savoy. At the same + time, let the innkeepers look to the commissariat. Their supplies are + not unfrequently deficient in quantity, and, according to my + experience, very often deplorable in quality.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I will not venture + to criticise in detail the dishes which are brought to table, since I + am profoundly ignorant of their constitution. It is commonly said + amongst Alpine tourists that goat flesh represents mutton, and mule + does service for beef and chamois. I reserve my own opinion upon this + point until it has been shown what becomes of all the dead mules. But + I may say, I hope, without wounding the susceptibilities of my + acquaintances among the Italian innkeepers, that it would tend to + smoothen their intercourse with their guests if requests for solid + food were less frequently regarded as criminal. The deprecating airs + with which inquiries for really substantial food are received always + remind me of a Dauphiné innkeeper, who remarked that he had heard a + good many tourists travel in Switzerland. <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Yes,”</span> I answered, <span class="tei tei-q">“there + are a good many.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“How many?”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“Well,”</span> I said, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“I have seen a hundred or more sit down at a table + d’hôte.”</span> He lifted up his hands—<span class= + "tei tei-q">“Why,”</span> said he, <span class="tei tei-q">“they + would want meat every day!”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Yes, that + is not improbable.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“In that + case,”</span> he replied, <span class="tei tei-q">“<span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">I think we are better + without them</span></span>.”</span></p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page114">[pg 114]</span><a name="Pg114" + id="Pg114" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc17" id= + "toc17"></a> <a name="pdf18" id="pdf18"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER VI.</span></h1> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">OUR SIXTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE + MATTERHORN.</span><a id="noteref_81" name="noteref_81" href= + "#note_81"><span class="tei tei-noteref" style= + "text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">81</span></span></a></h1> + + <div class="tei tei-epigraph" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 9.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-lg" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-left: 1.80em; margin-top: 0.90em"> + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">But + mighty Jove cuts short, with just disdain,</span></span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">The long, long views of poor, designing + man.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style= + "text-align: left; margin-left: 10.80em"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Homer.</span></span> + </div> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Carrel had + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">carte + blanche</span></span> in the matter of guides, and his choice fell + upon his relative Cæsar, Luc Meynet, and two others whose names I do + not know. These men were now brought together, and our preparations + were completed, as the weather was clearing up.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We rested on + Sunday, August 9, eagerly watching the lessening of the mists around + the great peak, and started just before dawn upon the 10th, on a + still and cloudless morning, which seemed to promise a happy + termination to our enterprise.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">By going always, + though gently, we arrived upon the Col du Lion before nine o’clock. + Changes were apparent. Familiar ledges had vanished; the platform, + whereupon my tent had stood, looked very forlorn, its stones had been + scattered by wind and frost, and had half disappeared: and the summit + of the Col itself, which in 1862 had always been respectably broad, + and covered by snow, was now sharper than the ridge of any church + roof, and was hard ice. Already we had found that the bad weather of + the past week had done its work. The rocks for several hundred feet + below the Col were varnished with ice. Loose, incoherent snow covered + the older and harder beds below, and we nearly lost our leader + through its treacherousness. He stepped on some snow which seemed + firm, and raised his axe to deliver a swinging blow, but, just as it + was <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page115">[pg 115]</span><a name= + "Pg115" id="Pg115" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>highest, the crust of + the slope upon which he stood broke away, and poured down in + serpentine streams, leaving long, bare strips, which glittered in the + sun, for they were glassy ice. Carrel, with admirable readiness, + flung himself back on to the rock off which he had stepped, and was + at once secured. He simply remarked, <span class="tei tei-q">“It is + time we were tied up,”</span> and, after we had been tied up, he went + to work again as if nothing had happened.<a id="noteref_82" name= + "noteref_82" href="#note_82"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">82</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We had abundant + illustrations during the next two hours of the value of a rope to + climbers. We were tied up rather widely apart, and advanced, + generally, in pairs. Carrel, who led, was followed closely by another + man, who lent him a shoulder or placed an axe-head under his feet, + when there was need; and when this couple were well placed the second + pair advanced, in similar fashion,—the rope being drawn in by those + above, and paid out gradually by those below. The leading men again + advanced, or the third pair, and so on. This manner of progression + was slow, but sure. One man only moved at a time, and if he slipped + (and we frequently did slip) he could slide scarcely a foot without + being checked by the others. The certainty and safety of the method + gave confidence to the one who was moving, and not only nerved him to + put out his powers to the utmost, but sustained nerve in really + difficult situations. For these rocks (which, it has been already + said, were easy enough under ordinary circumstances) were now + difficult in a high degree. The snow-water which had trickled down + for many days past in little streams, had taken, naturally, the very + route by which we wished to ascend; and, refrozen in the night, had + glazed the slabs over which we had to pass,—sometimes with a fine + film of ice as thin as a sheet of paper, and sometimes so thickly + that we <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page116">[pg 116]</span><a name= + "Pg116" id="Pg116" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>could almost cut + footsteps in it. The weather was superb, the men made light of the + toil, and shouted to rouse the echoes from the Dent d’Hérens.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We went on gaily, + passed the second tent platform, the Chimney, and the other + well-remembered points, and reckoned, confidently, on sleeping that + night upon the top of <span class="tei tei-q">“the shoulder;”</span> + but, before we had well arrived at the foot of the Great Tower, a + sudden rush of cold air warned us to look out.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was difficult + to say where this air came from; it did not blow as a wind, but + descended rather as the water in a shower-bath! All was tranquil + again; the atmosphere <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">showed</span></span> no signs of disturbance; + there was a dead calm, and not a speck of cloud to be seen anywhere. + But we did not remain very long in this state. The cold air came + again, and this time it was difficult to say where it did + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">not</span></span> come from. We jammed down our + hats as it beat against the ridge, and screamed amongst the crags. + Before we had got to the foot of the Tower, mists had been formed + above and below. They appeared at first in small, isolated patches + (in several places at the same time), which danced and jerked and + were torn into shreds by the wind, but grew larger under the process. + They were united together, and rent again,—showing us the blue sky + for a moment, and blotting it out the next; and augmented + incessantly, until the whole heavens were filled with whirling, + boiling clouds. Before we could take off our packs, and get under any + kind of shelter, a hurricane of snow burst upon us from the east. It + fell very heavily, and in a few minutes the ridge was covered by it. + <span class="tei tei-q">“What shall we do?”</span> I shouted to + Carrel. <span class="tei tei-q">“Monsieur,”</span> said he, + <span class="tei tei-q">“the wind is bad; the weather has changed; we + are heavily laden. Here is a fine <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">gîte</span></span>; let + us stop! If we go on we shall be half-frozen. That is <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">my</span></span> + opinion.”</span> No one differed from him; so we fell to work to make + a place for the tent, and in a couple of hours completed the platform + which we had commenced in 1862. The clouds had blackened during that + time, and we had hardly finished our task before a thunderstorm broke + upon us with appalling fury. Forked <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page117">[pg 117]</span><a name="Pg117" id="Pg117" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>lightning shot out at the turrets above, and at + the crags below. It was so close that we quailed at its darts. It + seemed to scorch us,—we were in the very focus of the storm. The + thunder was simultaneous with the flashes; short and sharp, and more + like the noise of a door that is violently slammed, multiplied a + thousandfold, than any noise to which I can compare it.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When I say that + the thunder was <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">simultaneous</span></span> with the lightning, I + speak as an inexact person. My meaning is that the time which elapsed + between seeing the flash and hearing the report was inappreciable to + me. I wish to speak with all possible precision, and there are two + points with regard to this storm upon which I can speak with some + accuracy. The first is in regard to the distance of the lightning + from our party. We <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">might</span></span> have been 1100 feet from it + if a second of time had elapsed between seeing the flashes and + hearing the reports; and a second of time is not appreciated by + inexact persons. It was certain that we were sometimes less than that + distance from the lightning, because I saw it pass in front of + well-known points on the ridge, both above and below us, which were + less (sometimes considerably less) than a thousand feet distant.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Secondly, in + regard to the difficulty of distinguishing sounds which are merely + echoes from true thunder, or the noise which occurs simultaneously + with lightning. Arago entered into this subject at some length in his + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Meteorological Essays</span></span>, and seemed + to doubt if it would ever be possible to determine whether echoes are + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">always</span></span> the cause of the rolling + sounds commonly called thunder.<a id="noteref_83" name="noteref_83" + href="#note_83"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">83</span></span></a> I shall + not attempt to show whether the rolling sounds should ever, or never, + be regarded as true thunder, but only that during this storm upon the + Matterhorn it was possible to distinguish the sound of the thunder + itself from the sounds (rolling and otherwise) which were merely the + echoes of the first, original sound.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page118">[pg 118]</span><a name="Pg118" id="Pg118" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At the place where + we were camped a remarkable echo could be heard (one so remarkable + that if it could be heard in this country it would draw crowds for + its own sake); I believe it came from the cliffs of the Dent + d’Hérens. It was a favourite amusement with us to shout to rouse this + echo, which repeated any sharp cry, in a very distinct manner, + several times, after the lapse of something like a dozen seconds. The + thunderstorm lasted nearly two hours, and raged at times with great + fury; and the prolonged rollings from the surrounding mountains, + after one flash, had not usually ceased before another set of echoes + took up the discourse, and maintained the reverberations without a + break. Occasionally there was a pause, interrupted presently by a + single clap, the accompaniment of a single discharge, and after such + times I could recognise the echoes from the Dent d’Hérens by their + peculiar repetitions, and by the length of time which had passed + since the reports had occurred of which they were the echoes.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">If I had been + unaware of the existence of this echo, I should have supposed that + the resounds were original reports of explosions which had been + unnoticed, since in intensity they were scarcely distinguishable from + the true thunder; which, during this storm, seemed to me, upon every + occasion, to consist of a single, harsh, instantaneous sound.<a id= + "noteref_84" name="noteref_84" href="#note_84"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">84</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Or if, instead of + being placed at a distance of less than a thousand feet from the + points of explosion (and consequently hearing the report almost in + the same moment as we saw the flash, <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page119">[pg 119]</span><a name="Pg119" id="Pg119" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>and the rollings after a considerable interval + of time), we had been placed so that the original report had fallen + on our ears nearly at the same moment as the echoes, we should + probably have considered that the successive reports and rollings of + the echoes were reports of successive explosions occurring nearly at + the same moment, and that they were not echoes at all.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This is the only + time (out of many storms witnessed in the Alps) I have obtained + evidence that the rollings of thunder are actually echoes; and that + they are not, necessarily, the reports of a number of discharges over + a long line, occurring at varying distances from the spectator, and + consequently unable to arrive at his ear at the same moment, although + they follow each other so swiftly as to produce a sound more or less + continuous.<a id="noteref_85" name="noteref_85" href= + "#note_85"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">85</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The wind during + all this time seemed to blow tolerably consistently from the east. It + smote the tent so vehemently (notwithstanding it was partly protected + by rocks) that we had grave fears our refuge might be blown away + bodily, with ourselves inside; so, during some of the lulls, we + issued out and built a wall to windward. At half-past three the wind + changed to the north-west, and the clouds vanished. We immediately + took the opportunity to send down one of the porters (under + protection of some of the others, a little beyond the Col du Lion), + as the tent would accommodate only five persons. From this time to + sunset the weather was variable. It was sometimes blowing and snowing + hard, and sometimes a dead calm. The bad weather was evidently + confined to the Mont Cervin, for when the clouds lifted we could see + every<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page120">[pg 120]</span><a name= + "Pg120" id="Pg120" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>thing that could be + seen from our gîte. Monte Viso, a hundred miles off, was clear, and + the sun set gorgeously behind the range of Mont Blanc. We passed the + night comfortably—even luxuriously—in our blanket-bags, but there was + little chance of sleeping, between the noise of the wind, of the + thunder, and of the falling rocks. I forgave the thunder for the sake + of the lightning. A more splendid spectacle than its illumination of + the Matterhorn crags I do not expect to see.<a id="noteref_86" name= + "noteref_86" href="#note_86"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">86</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The greatest + rock-falls always seemed to occur in the night, between midnight and + daybreak. This was noticeable on each of the seven nights which I + passed upon the south-west ridge, at heights varying from 11,800 to + 13,000 feet.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I may be wrong in + supposing that the falls in the night are greater than those in the + daytime, since sound is much more startling during darkness than when + the cause of its production is seen. Even a sigh may be terrible in + the stillness of the night. In the daytime one’s attention is + probably divided between the sound and the motion of rocks which + fall; or it may be concentrated on other matters. But it is certain + that the greatest of the falls which happened during the night took + place after midnight, and this I connect with the fact that the + maximum of cold during any twenty-four hours very commonly occurs + between midnight and dawn.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We turned out at + 3.30 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> on the 11th, and were dismayed to + find that it still continued to snow. At 9 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> it + ceased to fall, and the sun showed itself feebly, so we packed up our + baggage, and set out to try to get upon <span class="tei tei-q">“the + shoulder.”</span> We struggled upwards until eleven o’clock, and then + it commenced to snow again. We held a council; the opinions expressed + at it were unanimous against advancing, and I decided to retreat. For + we had risen less than 300 feet in the past two hours, and had not + even arrived at the rope which Tyndall’s party left behind, attached + to the rocks, <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page121">[pg + 121]</span><a name="Pg121" id="Pg121" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>in + 1862. At the same rate of progression it would have taken us from + four to five hours to get upon <span class="tei tei-q">“the + shoulder.”</span> Not one of us cared to attempt to do so under the + existing circumstances; for besides having to move our own weight, + which was sufficiently troublesome at this part of the ridge, we had + to transport much heavy baggage, tent, blankets, and provisions, + ladder, and 450 feet of rope, besides many other smaller matters. + These, however, were not the most serious considerations. Supposing + that we got upon <span class="tei tei-q">“the shoulder,”</span> we + might find ourselves detained there several days, unable either to go + up or down.<a id="noteref_87" name="noteref_87" href= + "#note_87"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">87</span></span></a> I could + not risk any such detention, being under obligations to appear in + London at the end of the week.</p><a name="plate08" id="plate08" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus156.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: The crags of the Matterhorn, during the storm, midnight, Aug. 10, 1863" + title= + "THE CRAGS OF THE MATTERHORN, DURING THE STORM, MIDNIGHT, AUG. 10, 1863." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE CRAGS OF THE MATTERHORN, DURING THE STORM, MIDNIGHT, AUG. 10, + 1863. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We returned to + Breil in the course of the afternoon. It was quite fine there, and + the tenants of the inn received our statements with evident + scepticism. They were astonished to learn that we had been exposed to + a snow-storm of twenty-six hours’ duration. <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Why,”</span> said Favre, the innkeeper, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">we</span></span> have had no snow; it has been + fine all the time you have been absent, and there has been only that + small cloud upon the mountain.”</span> Ah! that small cloud! None + except those who have had experience of it can tell what a formidable + obstacle it is.</p><a name="fig40" id="fig40" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus158.png" alt="Illustration: Monsieur Favre" + title="MONSIEUR FAVRE." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + MONSIEUR FAVRE. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Why is it that the + Matterhorn is subject to these abominable variations of weather? The + ready answer is, <span class="tei tei-q">“Oh, the mountain is so + isolated; it attracts the clouds.”</span> This is not a sufficient + answer. Although the mountain <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">is</span></span> isolated, it is not so much + more isolated than the neighbouring peaks that it should gather + clouds when none of the others do so. It will not at all account for + the <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page122">[pg 122]</span><a name= + "Pg122" id="Pg122" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>cloud to which I refer, + which is not formed by an aggregation of smaller, stray clouds drawn + together from a distance (as scum collects round a log in the water), + but is created against the mountain itself, and springs into + existence where no clouds were seen before. It is formed and hangs + chiefly against the southern sides, and particularly against the + south-eastern side. It frequently does not envelop the summit, and + rarely extends down to the Glacier du Lion, and to the Glacier du + Mont Cervin below. It forms in the finest weather; on cloudless and + windless days.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I conceive that we + should look to differences of temperature rather than to the height + or isolation of the mountain for an explanation. I am inclined to + attribute the disturbances which occur in the atmosphere of the + southern sides of the Matterhorn on fine days,<a id="noteref_88" + name="noteref_88" href="#note_88"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">88</span></span></a> + principally to the fact that the mountain is a <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">rock</span></span> + mountain; that it receives a great amount of heat,<a id="noteref_89" + name="noteref_89" href="#note_89"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">89</span></span></a> and is + not only warmer itself, but is surrounded by an atmosphere of a + higher temperature than such peaks as the Weisshorn and the Lyskamm, + which are eminently <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">snow</span></span> mountains.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In certain states + of the atmosphere its temperature may be tolerably uniform over wide + areas and to great elevations. I have known the thermometer to show + 70° in the shade at the top of an Alpine peak more than 13,000 feet + high, and but a very few degrees higher 6000 or 7000 feet lower. At + other times, there will be a difference of forty or fifty degrees + (Faht.) between two stations, the higher not more than 6000 or 7000 + feet above the lower.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Provided that the + temperature was uniform, or nearly so, on all sides of the + Matterhorn, and to a considerable distance above its summit, no + clouds would be likely to form upon it. But if the atmosphere + immediately surrounding it is warmer than the contiguous strata, a + local <span class="tei tei-q">“courant ascendant”</span> must + necessarily be generated; and portions of the cooler superincumbent + (or circum<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page123">[pg + 123]</span><a name="Pg123" id="Pg123" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>jacent) air will naturally be attracted towards + the mountain, where they will speedily condense the moisture of the + warm air in contact with it. I cannot explain the downrushes of cold + air which occur on it, when all the rest of the neighbourhood appears + to be tranquil, in any other way. The clouds are produced by the + contact of two strata of air (of widely different temperatures) + charged with invisible moisture, as surely as certain colourless + fluids produce a white, turbid liquid, when mixed together. The order + has been—wind of a low temperature—mist—rain—snow or hail.<a id= + "noteref_90" name="noteref_90" href="#note_90"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">90</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This opinion is + borne out to some extent by the behaviour of the neighbouring + mountains. The Dom (14,935 feet) and the Dent Blanche (14,318) have + both of them large cliffs of bare rock upon their southern sides, and + against those cliffs clouds commonly form (during fine, still + weather) at the same time as the cloud on the Matterhorn; whilst the + Weisshorn (14,804) and the Lyskamm (14,889), (mountains of about the + same altitude, and which are in corresponding situations to the + former pair) usually remain perfectly clear.</p><a name="fig41" id= + "fig41" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus160.png" alt= + "Illustration: Crossing the Channel" title= + "CROSSING THE CHANNEL." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + CROSSING THE CHANNEL. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I arrived at + Chatillon at midnight on the 11th, defeated and disconsolate; but, + like a gambler who loses each throw, only the more eager to have + another try, to see if the luck would change: and returned to London + ready to devise fresh combinations, and to form new plans.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page124">[pg 124]</span><a name="Pg124" + id="Pg124" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc19" id= + "toc19"></a> <a name="pdf20" id="pdf20"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER VII.</span></h1> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">FROM ST. MICHEL ON THE MONT CENIS ROAD + BY THE COL DES AIGUILLES D’ARVE, COL DE MARTIGNARE, AND THE BRÈCHE DE + LA MEIJE TO LA BÉRARDE.</span></h1> + + <div class="tei tei-epigraph" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 9.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-lg" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-left: 1.80em; margin-top: 0.90em"> + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">The more + to help the greater deed is done.</span><span style= + "font-size: 90%">”</span></span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style= + "text-align: left; margin-left: 10.80em"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Homer.</span></span> + </div> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When we arrived + upon the highest summit of Mont Pelvoux, in Dauphiné, in 1861, we + saw, to our surprise and disappointment, that it was not the + culminating point of the district; and that another mountain—distant + about a couple of miles, and separated from us by an impassable + gulf—claimed that distinction. I was troubled in spirit about this + mountain, and my thoughts often reverted to the great wall-sided + peak, second in apparent inaccessibility only to the Matterhorn. It + had, moreover, another claim to attention—it was the highest mountain + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-variant: small-caps">In</span></span> France.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The year 1862 + passed away without a chance of getting to it, and my holiday was too + brief in 1863 even to think about it; but in the following year it + was possible, and I resolved to set my mind at rest by completing the + task which had been left unfinished in 1861.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In the meantime + others had turned their attention to Dauphiné. First of all (in 1862) + came Mr. F. Tuckett—that mighty mountaineer, whose name is known + throughout the length and breadth of the Alps—with the guides Michel + Croz, Peter Perrn, and Bartolommeo Peyrotte, and great success + attended his arms. But Mr. Tuckett halted before the Pointe des + Ecrins, and, dismayed by its appearance, withdrew his forces to + gather less dangerous laurels elsewhere.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">His expedition, + however, threw some light upon the Ecrins. He pointed out the + direction from which an attack was most likely to be successful, and + Mr. William Mathews and the Rev. T. G. <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page125">[pg 125]</span><a name="Pg125" id="Pg125" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>Bonney (to whom he communicated the result of + his labours) attempted to execute the ascent, with the brothers + Michel and J. B. Croz, by following his indications. But they too + were defeated, as I shall relate more particularly + presently.</p><a name="fig42" id="fig42" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus162.png" alt= + "Illustration: Michel-Auguste Crow (1865)" title= + "MICHEL-AUGUSTE CROZ (1865)." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + MICHEL-AUGUSTE CROZ (1865). + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The guide Michel + Croz had thus been engaged in both of these expeditions in Dauphiné, + and I naturally looked to him for assistance. Mr. Mathews (to whom I + applied for information) gave him a high character, and concluded his + reply to me by saying, <span class="tei tei-q">“he was only happy + when upwards of 10,000 feet high.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I know what my + friend meant. Croz was happiest when he was employing his powers to + the utmost. Places where you and I would <span class= + "tei tei-q">“toil and sweat, and yet be freezing cold,”</span> were + bagatelles to him, and it was only when he got above the range of + ordinary mortals, and was required to employ his magnificent + strength, <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page126">[pg + 126]</span><a name="Pg126" id="Pg126" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and + to draw upon his unsurpassed knowledge of ice and snow, that he could + be said to be really and truly happy.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Of all the guides + with whom I travelled, Michel Croz was the man who was most after my + own heart. He did not work like a blunt razor, and take to his toil + unkindly. He did not need urging, or to be told a second time to do + anything. You had but to say <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">what</span></span> was to be done, and + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">how</span></span> it was to be done, and the + work <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">was</span></span> done, if it was possible. Such + men are not common, and when they are known they are valued. Michel + was not widely known, but those who did know him employed him again + and again. The inscription that is placed upon his tomb truthfully + records that he was <span class="tei tei-q">“beloved by his comrades + and esteemed by travellers.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At the time that I + was planning my journey, my friends Messrs. A. W. Moore and Horace + Walker were also drawing up their programme; and, as we found that + our wishes were very similar, we agreed to unite our respective + parties. The excursions which are described in this and the two + following chapters are mutual ideas which were jointly executed.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Our united + programme was framed so as to avoid sleeping in inns, and so that we + should see from the highest point attained on one day a considerable + portion of the route which was intended to be followed on the next. + This latter matter was an important one to us, as all of our + projected excursions were new ones, and led over ground about which + there was very little information in print.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">My friends had + happily secured Christian Almer of Grindelwald as their guide. The + combination of Croz and Almer was a perfect one. Both men were in the + prime of life;<a id="noteref_91" name="noteref_91" href= + "#note_91"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">91</span></span></a> both + were endued with strength and activity far beyond the average; and + the courage and the knowledge of each was alike undoubted. The temper + of Almer it was impossible to ruffle; he was ever obliging and + enduring,—a bold but a safe man. That which he lacked in fire—in + dash—was supplied by Croz, who, in his turn, was kept in place by + Almer. <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page127">[pg 127]</span><a name= + "Pg127" id="Pg127" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>It is pleasant to + remember how they worked together, and how each one confided to you + that he liked the other so much because he worked so well; but it is + sad, very sad, to those who have known the men, to know that they can + never work together again.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We met at St. + Michel on the Mont Cenis road, at midday on June 20, 1864, and + proceeded in the afternoon over the Col de Valloires to the village + of the same name. The summit of this pretty little pass is about 3500 + feet above St. Michel, and from it we had a fair view of the + Aiguilles d’Arve, a group of three peaks of singular form, which it + was our especial object to investigate.<a id="noteref_92" name= + "noteref_92" href="#note_92"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">92</span></span></a> They had + been seen by ourselves and others from numerous distant points, and + always looked very high and very inaccessible; but we had been unable + to obtain any information about them, except the few words in + Joanne’s <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Itinéraire du Dauphiné</span></span>. Having + made out from the summit of the Col de Valloires that they could be + approached from the Valley of Valloires, we hastened down to find a + place where we could pass the night, as near as possible to the + entrance of the little valley leading up to them.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">By nightfall we + arrived at the entrance to this little valley (Vallon des Aiguilles + d’Arve), and found some buildings placed just where they were wanted. + The proprietress received us with civility, and placed a large barn + at our disposal, on the conditions that no lights were struck or + pipes smoked therein; and when her terms were agreed to, she took us + into her own chalet, made up a huge fire, heated a gallon of milk, + and treated us with genuine hospitality.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In the morning we + found that the Vallon des Aiguilles d’Arve led away nearly due west + from the Valley of Valloires, and that the village of Bonnenuit was + placed (in the latter valley) almost exactly opposite to the junction + of the two.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At 3.55 + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> on the 21st we set out up the + Vallon, passed for a time over pasture-land, and then over a stony + waste, deeply chan<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page128">[pg + 128]</span><a name="Pg128" id="Pg128" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>nelled by watercourses. At 5.30 the two + principal Aiguilles were well seen, and as, by this time, it was + evident that the authors of the Sardinian official map had romanced + as extensively in this neighbourhood as elsewhere, it was necessary + to hold a council.</p><a name="ill128" id="ill128" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="fig43" id="fig43" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus165.png" alt="Illustration: Plan to show route" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Three questions + were submitted to it:—Firstly, Which is the highest of these + Aiguilles? Secondly, Which shall we go up? Thirdly, How is it to be + done?</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The French + engineers, it was said, had determined that the two highest of them + were respectively 11,513 and 11,529 feet in height; but we were + without information as to which two they had measured.<a id= + "noteref_93" name="noteref_93" href="#note_93"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">93</span></span></a> Joanne + indeed said (but without specifying whether he meant all three) that + the Aiguilles had been several times ascended, and particularly + mentioned that the one of 11,513 feet was <span class= + "tei tei-q">“relatively easy.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We therefore said, + <span class="tei tei-q">“We will go up the peak of 11,529 + feet.”</span> That determination did not settle the second question. + Joanne’s <span class="tei tei-q">“relatively easy”</span> peak, + according to his description, was evidently the most northern of the + three. <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Our</span></span> peak then was to be one of the + other two;—but which of them? We were inclined to favour the central + one; but it was hard to determine, they looked so equal in height. + When, however, the council came to study the third <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page129">[pg 129]</span><a name="Pg129" id="Pg129" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>question—<span class="tei tei-q">“How is + it to be done?”</span> it was unanimously voted that upon the eastern + and southern sides it was certainly <span class= + "tei tei-q">“relatively”</span> difficult, and that a move should be + made round to the northern side.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The movement was + duly executed, and after wading up some snow-slopes of considerable + steepness (going occasionally beyond 40°), we found ourselves in a + gap or nick, between the central and northernmost Aiguille, at 8.45 + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> We then studied the northern face + of our intended peak, and finally arrived at the conclusion that it + was <span class="tei tei-q">“relatively”</span> impracticable. Croz + shrugged his big shoulders, and said, <span class="tei tei-q">“My + faith! I think you will do well to leave it to others.”</span> Almer + was more explicit, and volunteered the information that a thousand + francs would not tempt him to <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">try</span></span> it. We then turned to the + northernmost peak, but found its southern faces even more hopeless + than the northern faces of the central one. We enjoyed accordingly + the unwonted luxury of a three-hours’ rest on the top of our pass; + for pass we were determined it should be.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We might have done + worse. We were 10,300 or 10,400 feet above the level of the sea, and + commanded a most picturesque view of the mountains of the Tarentaise; + while, somewhat east of south, we saw the monarch of the Dauphiné + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">massif</span></span>, whose closer acquaintance + it was our intention to make. Three sunny hours passed away, and then + we turned to the descent. We saw the distant pastures of a valley + (which we supposed was the Vallon or Ravine de la Sausse), and a long + snow-slope leading down to them. But from that slope we were cut off + by precipitous rocks, and our first impression was that we should + have to return in our track. Some running up and down, however, + discovered two little gullies, filled with threads of snow, and down + the most northern of these we decided to go. It was a steep way but a + safe one, for the cleft was so narrow that we could press the + shoulder against one side whilst the feet were against the other, and + the last remnant of the winter’s snow, well hardened, clung to the + rift with great tenacity, and gave us a path when the rocks refused + one. In half-an-hour we got to the top of the great snow-slope. + Walker said—<span class="tei tei-q">“Let us <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page130">[pg 130]</span><a name="Pg130" id="Pg130" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>glissade;”</span> the guides—<span class= + "tei tei-q">“No, it is too steep.”</span> Our friend, however, + started off at a standing glissade, and advanced for a time very + skilfully; but after a while he lost his balance, and progressed + downwards and backwards with great rapidity, in a way that seemed to + us very much like tumbling head over heels. He let go his axe, and + left it behind, but it overtook him and batted him heartily. He and + it travelled in this fashion for some hundreds of feet, and at last + subsided into the rocks at the bottom. In a few moments we were + reassured as to his safety, by hearing him ironically request us not + to keep him waiting down there.</p><a name="fig44" id="fig44" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus167.png" alt= + "Illustration: The Aiguilles d’Arve, from above the chalets of Rieu Blanc" + title= + "THE AIGUILLES D’ARVE, FROM ABOVE THE CHALETS OF RIEU BLANC, SHOWING ROUTE." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE AIGUILLES D’ARVE, FROM ABOVE THE CHALETS OF RIEU BLANC, + SHOWING ROUTE. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We others followed + the track shown by the dotted line upon the <a href="#fig44" class= + "tei tei-ref">engraving</a> (making zigzags to avoid the little + groups of rocks which jutted through the snow, by which Walker had + been upset), descended by a <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">sitting</span></span> glissade, and rejoined our + friend at the bottom. We then turned sharply to the left, and tramped + down the summit ridge of an old moraine of great size. Its mud was + excessively <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page131">[pg + 131]</span><a name="Pg131" id="Pg131" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>hard, and where some large erratic blocks lay + perched upon its crest, we were obliged to cut steps (in the mud) + with our ice-axes.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Guided by the + sound of a distant <span class="tei tei-q">“moo,”</span> we speedily + found the highest chalets in the valley, named Rieu Blanc. They were + tenanted by three old women (who seemed to belong to one of the + missing links sought by naturalists), destitute of all ideas except + in regard to cows, and who spoke a barbarous patois, well-nigh + unintelligible to the Savoyard Croz. They would not believe that we + had passed between the Aiguilles,—<span class="tei tei-q">“It is + impossible, the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">cows</span></span> never go there.”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“Could we get to La Grave over yonder + ridge?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Oh yes! the <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">cows</span></span> + often crossed!”</span> Could they show us the way? No; but we could + follow the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">cow</span></span>-tracks.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We stayed a while + near these chalets, to examine the western sides of the Aiguilles + d’Arve, and, according to our united opinion, the central one was as + inaccessible from this direction as from the east, north, or south. + On the following day we saw them again, from a height of about 11,000 + feet, in a south-easterly direction, and our opinion remained + unchanged.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We saw (on June + 20-22) the central Aiguille from all sides, and very nearly + completely round the southernmost one. The northern one we also saw + on all sides excepting from the north. (It is, however, precisely + from this direction M. Joanne says that its ascent is relatively + easy.) We do not, therefore, venture to express any opinion + respecting its ascent, except as regards its actual summit. This is + formed of two curious prongs, or pinnacles of rock, and we do not + understand in what way they (or either of them) can be ascended; nor + shall we be surprised if this ascent is discovered to have been made + in spirit rather than body; in fact, in the same manner as the + celebrated ascent of Mont Blanc, <span class="tei tei-q">“not + entirely to the summit, but as far as the Montanvert!”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">All three of the + Aiguilles <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">may</span></span> be accessible, but they + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">look</span></span> as inaccessible as anything I + have seen. They are the highest summits between the valleys of the + Romanche and the Arc; they are placed slightly to the north of the + watershed between those <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page132">[pg + 132]</span><a name="Pg132" id="Pg132" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>two + valleys, and a line drawn through them runs, pretty nearly, north and + south.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We descended by a + rough path from Rieu Blanc to the chalets of La Sausse, which give + the name to the Vallon or Ravine de la Sausse, in which they are + situated. This is one of the numerous branches of the valley that + descends to St. Jean d’Arve, and subsequently to St. Jean de + Maurienne.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Two passes, more + or less known, lead from this valley to the village of La Grave (on + the Lautaret road) in the valley of the Romanche, viz.:—the Col de + l’Infernet and the Col de Martignare. The former pass was crossed, + many years ago, by J. D. Forbes, and was mentioned by him in his + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Norway and + its Glaciers</span></span>. The latter one lies to the north of the + former, and is seldom traversed by tourists, but it was convenient + for us, and we set out to cross it on the morning of the 22d, after + having passed a comfortable, but not luxurious, night in the hay, at + La Sausse, where, however, the simplicity of the accommodation was + more than counterbalanced by the civility and hospitality of the + people in charge.<a id="noteref_94" name="noteref_94" href= + "#note_94"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">94</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">[Our object now + was to cross to La Grave (on the high road from Grenoble to + Briançon), and to ascend, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">en route</span></span>, some point sufficiently + high to give us a good view of the Dauphiné Alps in general, and of + the grand chain of the Meije in particular. Before <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page133">[pg 133]</span><a name="Pg133" id="Pg133" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>leaving England a careful study of + <span class="tei tei-q">“Joanne”</span> had elicited the fact that + the shortest route from La Sausse to La Grave was by the Col de + Martignare; and also that from the aforesaid Col it was possible to + ascend a lofty summit, called by him the Bec-du-Grenier, also called + Aiguille de Goléon. On referring, however, to the Sardinian survey, + we found there depicted, to the east of the Col de Martignare, not + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">one</span></span> peak bearing the above + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">two</span></span> names, but <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">two distinct + summits</span></span>; one—just above the Col—the Bec-du-Grenier (the + height of which was not stated); the other, still farther to the + east, and somewhat to the south of the watershed—the Aiguille du + Goléon (11,250 English feet in height), with a very considerable + glacier—the Glacier Lombard—between the two. On the French map,<a id= + "noteref_95" name="noteref_95" href="#note_95"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">95</span></span></a> on the + other hand, neither of the above names was to be found, but a peak + called Aiguille de la Sausse (10,897 feet), was placed in the + position assigned to the Bec-du-Grenier in the Sardinian map; while + farther to the east was a second and nameless peak (10,841), not at + all in the position given to the Aiguille du Goléon, of which and of + the Glacier Lombard there was not a sign. All this was very puzzling + and unsatisfactory; but as we had no doubt of being able to climb one + of the points to the east of the Col de Martignare (which overhung + the Ravine de la Sausse), we determined to make that col the basis of + our operations.]<a id="noteref_96" name="noteref_96" href= + "#note_96"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">96</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We left the + chalets at 4.15 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> [under a shower of good wishes + from our hostesses], proceeded at first towards the upper end of the + ravine, then doubled back up a long buttress which projects in an + unusual way, and went towards the Col de Martignare; but before + arriving at its summit we again doubled, and resumed the <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page134">[pg 134]</span><a name="Pg134" id="Pg134" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>original course.<a id="noteref_97" name= + "noteref_97" href="#note_97"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">97</span></span></a> At 6 + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> we stood on the watershed, and + followed it towards the east; keeping for some distance strictly to + the ridge, and afterwards diverging a little to the south to avoid a + considerable secondary aiguille, which prevented a straight track + being made to the summit at which we were aiming. At 9.15 we stood on + its top, and saw at once the lay of the land.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We found that our + peak was one of four which enclosed a plateau that was filled by a + glacier. Let us call these summits <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-weight: 700">A</span></span>, + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">B</span></span>, <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-weight: 700">C</span></span>, + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">D</span></span> (see plan on <a href="#fig43" + class="tei tei-ref">p. 128</a>). We stood upon <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-weight: 700">C</span></span>, which + was almost exactly the same elevation as <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-weight: 700">B</span></span>, but was + higher than <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">D</span></span>, and lower than <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-weight: 700">A</span></span>. Peak + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">A</span></span> was the highest of the four, and + was about 200 feet higher than <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">B</span></span> and <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-weight: 700">C</span></span>; we + identified it as the Aiguille de Goléon (French survey, 11,250 feet). + Peak <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">D</span></span> we considered was the + Bec-du-Grenier; and, in default of other names, we called + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">B</span></span> and <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-weight: 700">C</span></span> the + Aiguilles de la Sausse. The glacier flowed in a south-easterly + direction, and was the Glacier Lombard.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Peaks <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-weight: 700">B</span></span> and + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">C</span></span> overhung the Ravine de la Sausse, + and were connected with another aiguille—<span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-weight: 700">E</span></span>—which did + the same. A continuation of the ridge out of which these three + aiguilles rose joined the Aiguilles d’Arve. The head of the Ravine de + la Sausse was therefore encircled by six peaks; three of which it was + convenient to term the Aiguilles de la Sausse, and the others were + the Aiguilles d’Arve.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We were very + fortunate in the selection of our summit. Not to speak of other + things, it gave a grand view of the ridge which culminates in the + peak called La Meije (13,080 feet), which used to be mentioned by + travellers under the name Aiguille du Midi de la Grave. The view of + this mountain from the village of La Grave itself can hardly be + praised too highly,—it is one of the very finest road-views in the + Alps. The Ortler Spitz from the Stelvio is, in fact, its only worthy + competitor; and the opinions generally of <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page135">[pg 135]</span><a name="Pg135" id="Pg135" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>those who have seen the two views are in favour + of the former. But from La Grave one can no more appreciate the noble + proportions and the towering height of the Meije, than understand the + symmetry of the dome of St. Paul’s by gazing upon it from the + churchyard. To see it fairly, one must be placed at a greater + distance and at a greater height.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I shall not try to + describe the Meije. The same words, and the same phrases, have to do + duty for one and another mountain; their repetition becomes + wearisome; and ’tis a discouraging fact that any description, however + true or however elaborated, seldom or never gives an idea of the + reality.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Yet the Meije + deserves more than a passing notice. It was the last great Alpine + peak which knew the foot of man, and one can scarcely speak in + exaggerated terms of its jagged ridges, torrential glaciers, and + tremendous precipices.<a id="noteref_98" name="noteref_98" href= + "#note_98"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">98</span></span></a> But were + I to discourse upon these things without the aid of pictures, or to + endeavour to convey in <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">words</span></span> a sense of the loveliness of + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">curves</span></span>, of the beauty of + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">colour</span></span>, or of the harmonies of + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">sound</span></span>, I should try to accomplish + that which is impossible; and, at the best, should succeed in but + giving an impression that the things spoken of may have been pleasant + to hear or to behold, although they are perfectly incomprehensible to + read about. Let me therefore avoid these <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page136">[pg 136]</span><a name="Pg136" id="Pg136" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>things, not because I have no love for or + thought of them, but because they cannot be translated into language; + and presently, when topographical details must, of necessity, be + returned to again, I will endeavour to relieve the poverty of the pen + by a free use of the pencil.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Whilst we sat upon + the Aiguille de la Sausse, our attention was concentrated on a point + that was immediately opposite—on a gap or cleft between the Meije and + the mountain called the Rateau. It was, indeed, in order to have a + good view of this place that we made the ascent of the Aiguille. It + (that is the gap itself) looked, as my companions remarked, + obtrusively and offensively a pass. It had not been crossed, but it + ought to have been; and this seemed to have been recognised by the + natives, who called it, very appropriately, the Brèche de la + Meije.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I had seen the + place in 1860, and again in 1861, but had not then thought about + getting through it; and our information in respect to it was chiefly + derived from a photographic reproduction of the then unpublished + sheet 189, of the great map of France, which Mr. Tuckett, with his + usual liberality, had placed at our disposal. It was evident from + this map that if we could succeed in passing the Brèche, we should + make the most direct route between the village of La Grave and that + of Bérarde in the Department of the Isère, and that the distance + between these two places by this route, would be less than one-third + that of the ordinary way via the villages of Freney and Venos. It may + occur to some of my readers, why had it not been done before? For the + very sound reason that the valley on its southern side (Vallon des + Etançons) is uninhabited, and La Bérarde itself is a miserable + village, without interest, without commerce, and almost without + population. Why then did we wish to cross it? Because we were bound + to the Pointe des Ecrins, to which La Bérarde was the nearest + inhabited place.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When we sat upon + the Aiguille de la Sausse, we were rather despondent about our + prospects of crossing the Brèche, which seemed to present a + combination of all that was formidable. There <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page137">[pg 137]</span><a name="Pg137" id="Pg137" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>was, evidently, but one way by which it + could be approached. We saw that at the top of the pass there was a + steep wall of snow or ice (so steep that it was most likely ice) + protected at its base by a big schrund or moat, which severed it from + the snow-fields below. Then (tracking our course downwards) we saw + undulating snow-fields leading down to a great glacier. The + snow-fields would be easy work, but the glacier was riven and broken + in every direction; huge crevasses seemed to extend entirely across + it in some places, and everywhere it had that strange twisted look, + which tells of the unequal motion of the ice. Where could we get on + to it? At its base it came to a violent end, being cut short by a + cliff, over which it poured periodical avalanches, as we saw by a + great triangular bed of débris below. We could not venture there,—the + glacier must be taken in flank. But on which side? Not on the + west,—no one could climb those cliffs. It must, if any where, be by + the rocks on the east; and <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">they</span></span> looked as if they were + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">roches + moutonnées</span></span>.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">So we hurried down + to La Grave, to hear what Melchior Anderegg (who had just passed + through the village with the family of our friend Walker) had to say + on the matter. Who is Melchior Anderegg? Those who ask the question + cannot have been in Alpine Switzerland, where the name of Melchior is + as well known as the name of Napoleon. Melchior, too, is an Emperor + in his way—a very Prince among guides. His empire is amongst the + <span class="tei tei-q">“eternal snows,”</span>—his sceptre is an + ice-axe.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Melchior Anderegg, + more familiarly, and perhaps more generally known simply as Melchior, + was born at Zaun, near Meiringen, on April 6, 1828. He was first + brought into public notice in Hinchcliff’s <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Summer Months in the + Alps</span></span>, and was known to very few persons at the time + that little work was published. In 1855 he was <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Boots”</span> at the Grimsel Hotel, and in those days, + when he went out on expeditions, it was for the benefit of his + master, the proprietor; Melchior himself only got the <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">trinkgelt</span></span>. In 1856 he migrated to + the Schwarenbach Inn on <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page138">[pg + 138]</span><a name="Pg138" id="Pg138" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the + Gemmi, where he employed his time in carving objects for sale. In + 1858 he made numerous expeditions with Messrs. Hinchcliff and + Stephen, and proved to his employers that he possessed first-rate + skill, indomitable courage, and an admirable character. His position + has never been doubtful since that year, and for a long time there + has been no guide whose services have been more in request: he is + usually engaged a year in advance.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It would be almost + an easier task to say what he has not done than to catalogue his + achievements. Invariable success attends his arms; he leads his + followers to victory, but not to death. I believe that no serious + accident has ever befallen travellers in his charge. Like his friend + Almer, he can be called a <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">safe</span></span> man. It is the highest praise + that can be given to a first-rate guide.</p><a name="fig45" id= + "fig45" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus175.png" alt= + "Illustration: Melchior Anderegg in 1864" title= + "MELCHIOR ANDEREGG IN 1864." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + MELCHIOR ANDEREGG IN 1864. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Early in the + afternoon we found ourselves in the little inn at La Grave, on the + great Lautaret road, a rickety, tumble-down sort of place, with + nothing stable about it, as Moore wittily remarked, except the + smell.<a id="noteref_99" name="noteref_99" href= + "#note_99"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">99</span></span></a> Melchior + had gone, and had left <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page139">[pg + 139]</span><a name="Pg139" id="Pg139" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>behind a note which said, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“I think the passage of the Brèche is possible, but that + it will be very difficult.”</span> His opinion coincided with ours, + and we went to sleep, expecting to be afoot about eighteen or twenty + hours on the morrow.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At 2.40 the next + morning we left La Grave, in a few minutes crossed the Romanche, and + at 4 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> got to the moraine of the eastern + branch of the glacier that descends from the Brèche.<a id= + "noteref_100" name="noteref_100" href="#note_100"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">100</span></span></a> The + rocks by which we intended to ascend were placed between the two + branches of this glacier, and still looked smooth and unbroken. By 5 + o’clock we were upon them, and saw that we had been deluded by them. + No carpenter could have planned a more convenient staircase. They + were <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">not + moutonnée</span></span>, their smooth look from a distance was only + owing to their singular firmness. [It was really quite a pleasure to + scale such delightful rocks. We felt the stone held the boot so well, + that, without making a positive effort to do so, it would be almost + impossible to slip.] In an hour we had risen above the most crevassed + portion of the glacier, and began to look for a way on to it. Just at + the right place there was a patch of old snow at the side, and, + instead of gaining the ice by desperate acrobatic feats, we passed + from the rocks on to it as easily as one walks across a gangway. At + half-past 6 we were on the centre of the glacier, and the inhabitants + of La Grave turned out <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">en masse</span></span> into the road, and + watched us with amazement as they witnessed the falsification of + their confident predictions. Well might they stare, for our little + caravan, looking to them like a train of flies on a wall, crept up + and up, without hesitation and without a halt—lost to their sight one + minute as it dived into a crevasse, then seen again clambering up the + other side. The higher we rose the easier became the work, the angles + lessened, and our pace increased. The snow remained shadowed, and we + walked as easily as on a high road; and when (at 7.45) the summit of + the Brèche was seen, we rushed at it as furiously <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page140">[pg 140]</span><a name="Pg140" id="Pg140" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>as if it had been a breach in the wall of + a fortress, carried the moat by a dash, with a push behind and a pull + before, stormed the steep slope above, and at 8.50 stood in the + little gap, 11,054 feet above the level of the sea. The Brèche was + won. Well might they stare; five hours and a quarter had sufficed for + 6500 feet of ascent.<a id="noteref_101" name="noteref_101" href= + "#note_101"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">101</span></span></a> We + screamed triumphantly as they turned in to breakfast.</p><a name= + "fig46" id="fig46" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus177.png" alt= + "Illustration: Map of the Brèche de la Meije, etc." title= + "SCALE, THREE MILES TO AN INCH." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + SCALE, THREE MILES TO AN INCH. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">All mountaineers + know how valuable it is to study beforehand an intended route over + new ground from a height at some distance. None but blunderers fail + to do so, if it is possible; and one cannot do so too thoroughly. As + a rule, the closer one approaches underneath a summit, the more + difficult it is to pick out a path with judgment. Inferior peaks seem + unduly important, subordinate ridges are exalted, and slopes conceal + points beyond; and if one blindly undertakes an ascent, without + having acquired a tolerable notion of the relative importance of the + parts, and of their positions to one another, it will be miraculous + if great difficulties are not encountered.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">But although the + examination of an intended route from a height at a distance will + tell one (who knows the meaning of the things he is looking at) a + good deal, and will enable him to steer clear of many difficulties + against which he might otherwise blindly run, it will seldom allow + one to pronounce positively upon the practicability or + impracticability of the whole of the route. No living man, for + example, can pronounce positively from a distance <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page141">[pg 141]</span><a name="Pg141" id="Pg141" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>in regard to rocks. Those just mentioned + are an illustration of this. Three of the ablest and most experienced + guides concurred in thinking that they would be found very difficult, + and yet they presented no difficulty whatever. In truth, the sounder + and less broken up are the rocks, the more impracticable do they + usually look from a distance; while soft and easily rent rocks, which + are often amongst the most difficult and perilous to climb, very + frequently look from afar as if they might be traversed by a + child.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is possible to + decide with greater certainty in regard to the practicability of + glaciers. When one is seen to have few open crevasses (and this may + be told from a great distance), then we know that it is <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">possible</span></span> + to traverse it; but to what extent it, or a glacier that is much + broken up by crevasses, will be troublesome, will depend upon the + width and length of the crevasses, and upon the angles of the surface + of the glacier itself. A glacier may be greatly crevassed, but the + fissures may be so narrow that there is no occasion to deviate from a + straight line when passing across them; or a glacier may have few + open crevasses, and yet may be practically impassable on account of + the steepness of the angles of its surface. Nominally, a man with an + axe can go anywhere upon a glacier, but in practice it is found that + to move freely upon ice one must have to deal only with small angles. + It is thus necessary to know approximately the angles of the surfaces + of a glacier before it is possible to determine whether it will + afford easy travelling, or will be so difficult as to be (for all + practical purposes) impassable. This cannot be told by looking at + glaciers in full face from a distance; they must be seen in profile; + and it is often desirable to examine them both from the front and in + profile,—to do the first to study the direction of the crevasses, to + note where they are most and least numerous; and the second to see + whether its angles are moderate or great. Should they be very steep, + it may be better to avoid them altogether, and to mount even by + difficult rocks; but upon glaciers of <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">gentle</span></span> + inclination, and with few open crevasses, better progress can always + be made than upon the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">easiest</span></span> rocks.</p><span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page142">[pg 142]</span><a name="Pg142" id="Pg142" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">So much to explain + why we were deceived when looking at the Brèche de la Meije from the + Aiguille de la Sausse. We took note of all the difficulties, but did + not pay sufficient attention to the distance that the Brèche was + south of La Grave. My meaning will be apparent from the accompanying + <a href="#fig47" class="tei tei-ref">diagram</a>, Fig. 1 (constructed + upon the data supplied by the French surveyors), which will also + serve to illustrate how badly angles of elevation are judged by the + unaided eye.</p><a name="fig47" id="fig47" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus179.png" alt= + "Illustration: Diagram to show angle of summit of Meije, etc." /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The village of La + Grave is just 5000 feet, and the highest summit of the Meije is + 13,080 feet above the level of the sea. There is therefore a + difference in their levels of 8080 feet. But the summit of the Meije + is south of La Grave about 14,750 feet, and, consequently, a line + drawn from La Grave to the summit of the Meije is no steeper than the + dotted line drawn from <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">A</span></span> to <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-weight: 700">C</span></span>, <a href= + "#fig47" class="tei tei-ref">Fig. 1</a>; or, in other words, if one + could go in a direct line from La Grave to the summit of the Meije + the ascent would be at an angle of less than 30°. Nine persons out of + ten would probably estimate the angle on the spot at double this + amount.<a id="noteref_102" name="noteref_102" href= + "#note_102"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">102</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Brèche is 2000 + feet below the summit of the Meije, and only 6000 feet above La + Grave. A direct ascent from the village to the Brèche would + consequently be at an angle of not much more than 20°. But it is not + possible to make the ascent as the crow flies; it has to be made by + an indirect and much longer route. Our track was probably double the + length of a direct line between the two places. Doubling the length + halved the angles, and we <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page143">[pg + 143]</span><a name="Pg143" id="Pg143" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>therefore arrive at the somewhat amazing + conclusion, that upon this, one of the steepest passes in the Alps, + the mean of all the angles upon the ascent could not have been + greater than 11° or 12°. Of course, in some places, the angles were + much steeper, and in others less, but the <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">mean</span></span> of + the whole could not have passed the angle above + indicated.</p><a name="fig48" id="fig48" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus180.png" alt= + "Illustration: The Vallon des Etançons" title= + "THE VALLON DES ETANÇONS (LOOKING TOWARDS LA BÉRARDE).103103The drawing was inadvertently made the right way on the wood, and the view is now reversed in consequence." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE VALLON DES ETANÇONS (LOOKING TOWARDS LA BÉRARDE).<a id= + "noteref_103" name="noteref_103" href="#note_103"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">103</span></span></a> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We did not trouble + ourselves much with these matters when we sat on the top of the + Brèche. Our day’s work was as good as over (for we knew from Messrs. + Mathews and Bonney that there was no difficulty upon the other side), + and we abandoned ourselves to ease and luxury; wondering, + alternately, as we gazed upon the Rateau and the Ecrins, how the one + mountain could <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page144">[pg + 144]</span><a name="Pg144" id="Pg144" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>possibly hold itself together, and whether the + other would hold out against us. The former looked [so rotten that it + seemed as if a puff of wind or a clap of thunder might dash the whole + fabric to pieces]; while the latter asserted itself the monarch of + the group, and towered head and shoulders above all the rest of the + peaks which form the great horse-shoe of Dauphiné. At length a cruel + rush of cold air made us shiver, and shift our quarters to a little + grassy plot, 3000 feet below—an oasis in a desert—where we lay nearly + four hours admiring the splendid wall of the Meije.<a id= + "noteref_104" name="noteref_104" href="#note_104"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">104</span></span></a> Then we + tramped down the Vallon des Etançons, a howling wilderness, the + abomination of desolation; destitute alike of animal or vegetable + life; pathless, of course; suggestive of chaos, but of little else; + covered almost throughout its entire length with débris from the size + of a walnut up to that of a house; in a word, it looked as if + half-a-dozen moraines of first-rate dimensions had been carted and + shot into it. Our tempers were soured by constant pitfalls [it was + impossible to take the eyes from the feet, and if an unlucky + individual so much as blew his nose, without standing still to + perform the operation, the result was either an instantaneous tumble, + or a barked shin, or a half-twisted ankle. There was no end to it, + and we became more savage at every step, unanimously agreeing that no + power on earth would ever induce us to walk up or down this + particular valley again.] It was not just to the valley, which was + enclosed by noble mountains,—unknown, it is true, but worthy of a + great reputation, and which, if placed in other districts, would be + sought after, and cited as types of daring form and graceful + outline.<a id="noteref_105" name="noteref_105" href= + "#note_105"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">105</span></span></a></p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page145">[pg 145]</span><a name="Pg145" + id="Pg145" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc21" id= + "toc21"></a> <a name="pdf22" id="pdf22"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER VIII</span></h1> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE POINTE DES + ECRINS.</span></h1> + + <div class="tei tei-epigraph" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 9.00em"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 0.90em"><span class="tei tei-q" + style="text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Filled with + high mountains, rearing their heads as if to reach to heaven, + crowned with glaciers, and fissured with immense chasms, where lie + the eternal snows guarded by bare and rugged cliffs; offering the + most varied sights, and enjoying all temperatures; and containing + everything that is most curious and interesting, the most simple + and the most sublime, the most smiling and the most severe, the + most beautiful and the most awful; such is the department of the + High Alps.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span><br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Ladoucette.</span></span></p> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Before 5 o’clock + on the afternoon of June 23, we were trotting down the steep path + that leads into La Bérarde. We put up, of course, with the + chasseur-guide Rodier (who, as usual, was smooth and smiling), and, + after congratulations were over, we returned to the exterior to watch + for the arrival of one Alexander Pic, who had been sent overnight + with our baggage <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">viâ</span></span> Freney and Venos. But when the + night fell, and no Pic appeared, we saw that our plans must be + modified; for he was necessary to our very existence—he carried our + food, our tobacco, our all. So, after some discussion, it was agreed + that a portion of our programme should be abandoned, that the night + of the 24th should be passed at the head of the Glacier de la Bonne + Pierre, and that, on the 25th, a push should be made for the summit + of the Ecrins. We then went to straw.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Our porter Pic + strolled in next morning with a very jaunty air, and we seized upon + our tooth-brushes; but, upon looking for the cigars, we found + starvation staring us in the face. <span class="tei tei-q">“Hullo! + Monsieur Pic, where are our cigars?”</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Gentlemen,”</span> he began, <span class="tei tei-q">“I + am desolated!”</span> and then, quite pat, he told a long rigmarole + about a fit on the road, of brigands, thieves, of their ransacking + the knap<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page146">[pg 146]</span><a name= + "Pg146" id="Pg146" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>sacks when he was + insensible, and of finding them gone when he revived! <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Ah! Monsieur Pic, we see what it is, you have smoked + them yourself!”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Gentlemen, I never + smoke, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">never</span></span>!”</span> Whereupon we + inquired secretly if he was known to smoke, and found that he was. + However, he said that he had never spoken truer words, and perhaps he + had not, for he is reported to be the greatest liar in + Dauphiné!</p><a name="fig49" id="fig49" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus183.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: Map of the central Dauphiné Alps" title= + "THE CENTRAL DAUPHINÉ ALPS." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE CENTRAL DAUPHINÉ ALPS. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We were now able + to start, and set out at 1.15 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> to bivouac upon the Glacier de la + Bonne Pierre, accompanied by Rodier, who staggered under a load of + blankets. Many slopes had to be mounted, and many torrents to be + crossed, all of which has been described by Mr. Tuckett.<a id= + "noteref_106" name="noteref_106" href="#note_106"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">106</span></span></a> We, + however, avoided the difficulties he experienced with the latter by + crossing them high up, where they were subdivided. But when we got on + to the moraine on the right bank of the glacier (or, properly + speaking, on to one of the moraines, for there are several), mists + descended, to our great hindrance; and <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page147">[pg 147]</span><a name="Pg147" id="Pg147" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>it was 5.30 before we arrived on the spot at + which it was intended to camp.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Each one selected + his nook, and we then joined round a grand fire made by our men. + Fortnum and Mason’s portable soup was sliced up and brewed, and was + excellent; but it should be said that before it <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">was</span></span> + excellent, three times the quantity named in the directions had to be + used. Art is required in drinking as in making this soup, and one + point is this—always let your friends drink first; not only because + it is more polite, but because the soup has a tendency to burn the + mouth if taken too hot, and one drink of the bottom is worth two of + the top, as all the goodness settles.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">[While engaged in + these operations, the mist that enveloped the glacier and surrounding + peaks was becoming thinner; little bits of blue sky appeared here and + there, until suddenly, when we were looking towards the head of the + glacier, far, far above us, at an almost inconceivable height, in a + tiny patch of blue, appeared a wonderful rocky pinnacle, bathed in + the beams of the fast-sinking sun. We were so electrified by the + glory of the sight that it was some seconds before we realised what + we saw, and understood that that astounding point, removed apparently + miles from the earth, was one of the highest summits of Les Ecrins; + and that we hoped, before another sun had set, to have stood upon an + even loftier pinnacle. The mists rose and fell, presenting us with a + series of dissolving views of ravishing grandeur, and finally died + away, leaving the glacier and its mighty bounding precipices under an + exquisite pale blue sky, free from a single speck of cloud.]</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The night passed + over without anything worth mention, but we had had occasion to + observe in the morning an instance of the curious evaporation that is + frequently noticeable in the High Alps. On the previous night we had + hung up on a knob of rock our mackintosh bag containing five bottles + of Rodier’s bad wine. In the morning, although the stopper appeared + to have been in all night, about four-fifths had evaporated. It was + strange; my friends <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page148">[pg + 148]</span><a name="Pg148" id="Pg148" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>had + not taken any, neither had I, and the guides each declared that they + had not seen any one touch it. In fact it was clear that there was no + explanation of the phenomenon, but in the dryness of the air. Still + it is remarkable that the dryness of the air (or the evaporation of + wine) is always greatest when a stranger is in one’s party—the + dryness caused by the presence of even a single Chamounix porter is + sometimes so great, that not four-fifths but the entire quantity + disappears. For a time I found difficulty in combating this + phenomenon, but at last discovered that if I used the wine-flask as a + pillow during the night, the evaporation was completely stopped.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At 4 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> we moved + off across the glacier in single file towards the foot of a great + gully, which led from the upper slopes of the glacier de la Bonne + Pierre, to the lowest point in the ridge that runs from the Ecrins to + the mountain called Roche Faurio,—cheered by Rodier, who now returned + with his wraps to La Bérarde. This gully (or <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">couloir</span></span>) + was discovered and descended by Mr. Tuckett, and we will now return + for a minute to the explorations of that accomplished + mountaineer.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In the year 1862 + he had the good fortune to obtain from the <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Dépôt de la + Guerre</span></span> at Paris, a MS. copy of the then unpublished + sheet 189 of the map of France, and with it in hand, he swept + backwards and forwards across the central Dauphiné Alps, untroubled + by the doubts as to the identity of peaks, which had perplexed Mr. + Macdonald and myself in 1861; and, enlightened by it, he was able to + point out (which he did in the fairest manner) that we had confounded + the Ecrins with another mountain—the Pic Sans Nom. We made this + blunder through imperfect knowledge of the district and inaccurate + reports of the natives;—but it was not an extraordinary one (the two + mountains are not unlike each other), considering the difficulty that + there is in obtaining from any except the very highest summits a + complete view of this intricate group.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The situations of + the principal summits can be perceived at a <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page149">[pg 149]</span><a name="Pg149" id="Pg149" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>glance on the <a href="#fig49" class= + "tei tei-ref">accompanying map</a>, which is a reproduction of a + portion of sheet 189. The main ridge of the chain runs, at this part, + nearly north and south. Roche Faurio, at the northern extreme, is + 3716 mètres, or 12,192 feet, above the level of the sea. The lowest + point between that mountain and the Ecrins (the Col des Ecrins) is + 11,000 feet. The ridge again rises, and passes 13,000 feet in the + neighbourhood of the Ecrins. The highest summit of that mountain + (13,462 feet) is, however, placed a little to the east of and off the + main ridge. It then again falls, and in the vicinity of the Col de la + Tempe it is, perhaps, below 11,000 feet; but immediately to the south + of the summit of that pass, there is upon the ridge a point which has + been determined by the French surveyors to be 12,323 feet. This peak + is without a name. The ridge continues to gain height as we come to + the south, and culminates in the mountain which the French surveyors + have called Sommet de l’Aile Froide. On the spot it is called, very + commonly, the Aléfroide.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">There is some + uncertainty respecting the elevation of this mountain. The Frenchmen + give 3925 mètres (12,878) as its highest point, but Mr. Tuckett, who + took a good theodolite to the top of Mont Pelvoux (which he agreed + with his predecessors had an elevation of 12,973 feet), found that + the summit of the Aléfroide was elevated above his station 4′; and as + the distance between the two points was 12,467 feet, this would + represent a difference in altitude of 5 mètres in favour of the + Aléfroide. I saw this mountain from the summit of Mont Pelvoux in + 1861, and was in doubt as to which of the two was the higher, and in + 1864, from the summit of the Pointe des Ecrins (as will presently be + related), it looked actually higher than Mont Pelvoux. I have + therefore little doubt but that Mr. Tuckett is right in believing the + Aléfroide to have an elevation of about 13,000 feet, instead of + 12,878, as determined by the French surveyors.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Mont Pelvoux is to + the east of the Aléfroide and off the main ridge, and the Pic Sans + Nom (12,845 feet) is placed between these two mountains. The latter + is one of the grandest of the Dauphiné <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page150">[pg 150]</span><a name="Pg150" id="Pg150" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>peaks, but it is shut in by the other mountains, + and is seldom seen except from a distance, and then is usually + confounded with the neighbouring summits. Its name has been + accidentally omitted on the map, but its situation is represented by + the large patch of rocks, nearly surrounded by glaciers, that is seen + between the words Ailefroide and Mt. Pelvoux.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The lowest + depression on the main ridge to the south of the Aléfroide is the Col + du Selé, and this, according to Mr. Tuckett, is 10,834 feet. The + ridge soon rises again, and, a little farther to the south, joins + another ridge running nearly east and west. To a mountain at the + junction of these two ridges the Frenchmen have given the singular + name Crête des Bœufs Rouges! The highest point hereabouts is 11,332 + feet; and a little to the west there is another peak (Mont Bans) of + 11,979 feet. The main ridge runs from this last-named point, in a + north-westerly direction, to the Cols de Says, both of which exceed + 10,000 feet.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It will thus be + seen that the general elevation of this main ridge is almost equal to + that of the range of Mont Blanc, or of the central Pennine Alps; and + if we were to follow it out more completely, or to follow the other + ridges surrounding or radiating from it, we should find that there is + a remarkable absence, throughout the entire district, of low gaps and + depressions, and that there are an extraordinary number of peaks of + medium elevation.<a id="noteref_107" name="noteref_107" href= + "#note_107"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">107</span></span></a> The + difficulty which explorers have experienced in Dauphiné in + identifying peaks, has very much arisen from the elevation of the + ridges generally being more uniform than is commonly found in the + Alps, and the consequent facile concealment of one point by another. + The difficulty has been enhanced by the narrowness and erratic + courses of the valleys.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The possession of + the <span class="tei tei-q">“advanced copy”</span> of sheet 189 of + the French map, enabled Mr. Tuckett to grasp most of what I have just + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page151">[pg 151]</span><a name="Pg151" + id="Pg151" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>said, and much more; and he + added, in 1862, three interesting passes across this part of the + chain to those already known. The first, from Ville Vallouise to La + Bérarde, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">viâ</span></span> the village of Claux, and the + glaciers du Selé and de la Pilatte,—this he called the Col du Selé; + the second, between Ville Vallouise and Villar d’Arène (on the + Lautaret road) <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">viâ</span></span> Claux and the glaciers Blanc + and d’Arsine,—the Col du Glacier Blanc; and the third, from Vallouise + to La Bérarde, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">viâ</span></span> the Glacier Blanc, the Glacier + de l’Encula, and the Glacier de la Bonne Pierre, the Col des + Ecrins.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This last pass was + discovered accidentally. Mr. Tuckett set out intending to endeavour + to ascend the Pointe des Ecrins, but circumstances were against him, + as he relates in the following words:—<span class= + "tei tei-q">“Arrived on the plateau”</span> (of the Glacier de + l’Encula), <span class="tei tei-q">“a most striking view of the + Ecrins burst upon us, and a hasty inspection encouraged us to hope + that its ascent would be practicable. On the sides of La Bérarde and + the Glacier Noir it presents, as has been already stated, the most + precipitous and inaccessible faces that can well be conceived; but in + the direction of the Glacier de l’Encula, as the upper plateau of the + Glacier Blanc is named on the French map, the slopes are less rapid, + and immense masses of <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">névé</span></span> and <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">séracs</span></span> + cover it nearly to the summit.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“The snow was in very bad order, and as we sank at each + step above the knee, it soon became evident that our prospects of + success were extremely doubtful. A nearer approach, too, disclosed + traces of fresh avalanches, and after much deliberation and a careful + examination through the telescope, it was decided that the chances in + our favour were too small to render it desirable to waste time in the + attempt.... I examined the map, from which I perceived that the + glacier seen through the gap”</span> (in the ridge running from Roche + Faurio to the Ecrins) <span class="tei tei-q">“to the west, at a + great depth below, must be that of La Bonne Pierre; and if a descent + to its head was practicable, a passage might probably be effected to + La Bérarde. On suggesting to Croz and Perrn that, though baffled by + the state of the snow on the Ecrins, we might <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page152">[pg 152]</span><a name="Pg152" id="Pg152" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>still achieve something of interest and + importance by discovering a new col, they both heartily assented, and + in a few minutes Perrn was over the edge, and cutting his way down + the rather formidable <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">couloir</span></span>,”</span> etc. etc.<a id= + "noteref_108" name="noteref_108" href="#note_108"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">108</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This was the + couloir at the foot of which we found ourselves at daybreak on the + 25th of June 1864; but before commencing the relation of our doings + upon that eventful day, I must recount the experiences of Messrs. + Mathews and Bonney in 1862.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">These gentlemen, + with the two Croz’s, attempted the ascent of the Ecrins a few weeks + after Mr. Tuckett had inspected the mountain. On August 26, says Mr. + Bonney, <span class="tei tei-q">“we pushed on, and our hopes each + moment rose higher and higher; even the cautious Michel committed + himself so far as to cry, <span class="tei tei-q">‘Ah, malheureux + Ecrins, vous serez bientôt morts,’</span> as we addressed ourselves + to the last slope leading up to the foot of the final cone. The old + proverb about <span class="tei tei-q">‘many a slip’</span> was, + however, to prove true on this occasion. Arrived at the top of this + slope, we found that we were cut off from the peak by a formidable + bergschrund, crossed by the rottenest of snow-bridges. We looked to + the right and to the left, to see whether it would be possible to get + on either arête at its extremity; but instead of rising directly from + the snow as they appeared to do from below, they were terminated by a + wall of rock some forty feet high. There was but one place where the + bergschrund was narrow enough to admit of crossing, and there a cliff + of ice had to be climbed, and then a path to be cut up a steep slope + of snow, before the arête could be reached. At last, after searching + in vain for some time, Michel bade us wait a little, and started off + to explore the gap separating the highest peak from the snow-dome on + the right, and see if it were possible to ascend the rocky wall. + Presently he appeared, evidently climbing with difficulty, and at + last stood on the arête itself. Again we thought the victory was won, + and started off to follow him. Suddenly he called to us to halt, and + turned to descend. In a few minutes he <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page153">[pg 153]</span><a name="Pg153" id="Pg153" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>stopped. After a long pause he shouted to his + brother, saying that he was not able to return by the way he had + ascended. Jean was evidently uneasy about him, and for some time we + watched him with much anxiety. At length he began to hew out steps in + the snow along the face of the peak towards us. Jean now left us, + and, making for the ice-cliff mentioned above, chopped away until, + after about a quarter of an hour’s labour, he contrived, somehow or + other, to worm himself up it, and began to cut steps to meet his + brother. Almost every step appeared to be cut right through the snowy + crust into the hard ice below, and an incipient stream of snow came + hissing down the sides of the peak as they dug it away with their + axes. Michel could not have been much more than 100 yards from us, + and yet it was full three quarters of an hour before the brothers + met. This done, they descended carefully, burying their axe-heads + deep in the snow at every step.</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“Michel’s account was that he had reached the arête with + great difficulty, and saw that it was practicable for some distance, + in fact, as far as he could see; but that the snow was in a most + dangerous condition, being very incoherent and resting on hard ice; + that when he began to descend in order to tell us this, he found the + rocks so smooth and slippery that return was impossible; and that for + some little time he feared that he should not be able to extricate + himself, and was in considerable danger. Of course the arête could + have been reached by the way our guides had descended, but it was so + evident that their judgment was against proceeding, that we did not + feel justified in urging them on. We had seen so much of them that we + felt sure they would never hang back unless there was real danger, + and so we gave the word for retreating.”</span><a id="noteref_109" + name="noteref_109" href="#note_109"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">109</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On both of these + expeditions there was fine weather and plenty of time. On each + occasion the parties slept out at, and started from, a considerable + elevation, and arrived at the base of the final peak of the Ecrins + early in the day, and with plenty of <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page154">[pg 154]</span><a name="Pg154" id="Pg154" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>superfluous energy. Guides and travellers alike, + on each occasion, were exceptional men, experienced mountaineers, who + had proved their skill and courage on numerous antecedent occasions, + and who were not accustomed to turn away from a thing merely because + it was difficult. On each occasion the attempts were abandoned + because the state of the snow on and below the final peak was such + that avalanches were anticipated; and, according to the judgment of + those who were concerned, there was such an amount of positive danger + from this condition of things, that it was unjustifiable to + persevere.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We learnt + privately, from Messrs. Mathews, Bonney, and Tuckett, that unless the + snow was in a good state upon the final peak (that is to say, + coherent and stable), we should probably be of the same opinion as + themselves; and that, although the face of the mountain fronting the + Glacier de l’Encula was much less steep than its other faces, and was + apparently the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">only</span></span> side upon which an attempt + was at all likely to be successful, it was, nevertheless, so steep, + that for several days, at least, after a fall of snow upon it, the + chances in favour of avalanches would be considerable.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The reader need + scarcely be told, after all that has been said about the variableness + of weather in the High Alps, the chance was small indeed that we + should find upon the 25th of June, or any other set day, the precise + condition of affairs that was deemed indispensable for success. We + had such confidence in the judgment of our friends, that it was + understood amongst us the ascent should be abandoned, unless the + conditions were manifestly favourable.</p><a name="fig50" id="fig50" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus192.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: The Pointe des Ecrins from the Col du Galibier" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">By five minutes to + six we were at the top of the gully (a first-rate couloir, about 1000 + feet high), and within sight of our work. Hard, thin, and wedge-like + as the Ecrins had looked from afar, it had never looked so hard and + so thin as it did when we emerged from the top of the couloir through + the gap in the ridge. No tender shadows spoke of broad and rounded + ridges, but sharp and shadowless its serrated edges stood out against + the clear <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page155">[pg + 155]</span><a name="Pg155" id="Pg155" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>sky.<a id="noteref_110" name="noteref_110" href= + "#note_110"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">110</span></span></a> It had + been said that the route must be taken by one of the ridges of the + final peak, but both were alike repellent, hacked and notched in + numberless places. They reminded me of my failure on the Dent + d’Hérens in 1863, and of a place on a similar ridge, from which + advance or retreat was alike difficult. But, presuming one or other + of these ridges or arêtes was practicable, there remained the task of + getting to them, for completely round the base of the final peak + swept an enormous bergschrund, almost separating it from the slopes + which lay beneath. It was evident thus early that the ascent would + not be accomplished without exertion, and that it would demand all + our faculties and all our time. In more than one respect we were + favoured. The mists were gone, the day was bright and perfectly calm; + there had been a long stretch of fine weather beforehand, and the + snow was in excellent order; and, most important of all, the last new + snow which had fallen on the final peak, unable to support itself, + had broken away and rolled in a mighty avalanche, over schrund, névé, + séracs, over hills and valleys in the glacier <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page156">[pg 156]</span><a name="Pg156" id="Pg156" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>(levelling one and filling the other), + completely down to the summit of the Col des Ecrins, where it lay in + huge jammed masses, powerless to harm us; and had made a broad track, + almost a road, over which, for part of the way at least, we might + advance with rapidity.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We took in all + this in a few minutes, and seeing there was no time to be lost, + despatched a hasty meal, left knapsacks, provisions, and all + incumbrances by the Col, started again at half-past six, and made + direct for the left side of the schrund, for it was there alone that + a passage was practicable. We crossed it at 8.10. Our route can now + be followed upon the <a href="#fig51" class="tei tei-ref">annexed + outline</a>. The arrow marked <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">D</span></span> points out the direction of the + Glacier de la Bonne Pierre. The ridge in front, that extends right + across, is the ridge that is partially shown on the top of the map at + p. 146, leading from Roche Faurio towards the W.N.W. We arrived upon + the plateau of the Glacier de l’Encula, behind this ridge, from the + direction of <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">D</span></span>, and then made a nearly straight + track to the left hand of the bergschrund at <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">A</span></span>.</p><a name="fig51" id="fig51" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus193.png" alt= + "Illustration: Outline to show route up Pointe des Ecrins" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Thus far there was + no trouble, but the nature of the work changed immediately. If we + regard the upper 700 feet alone of the final peak of the Ecrins, it + may be described as a three-sided pyramid. One face is towards the + Glacier Noir, and forms one of the sheerest precipices in the Alps. + Another is towards the Glacier du Vallon, and is less steep, and less + uniform in angle than the first. The third is towards the Glacier de + l’Encula, and it was by this one we approached the summit. Imagine a + triangular plane, 700 or 800 feet high, set at an angle exceeding + 50°; let it be smooth, glassy; let the uppermost edges be cut into + spikes and teeth, and let them be bent, some one way, some another. + Let the glassy face be covered with minute fragments of rock, + scarcely attached, but varnished with ice; imagine this, and then + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page157">[pg 157]</span><a name="Pg157" + id="Pg157" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>you will have a very faint idea + of the face of the Ecrins on which we stood. It was not possible to + avoid detaching stones, which, as they fell, cause words + unmentionable to rise. The greatest friends would have reviled each + other in such a situation. We gained the eastern arête, and + endeavoured for half-an-hour to work upwards towards the summit; but + it was useless (each yard of progress cost an incredible time); and + having no desire to form the acquaintance of the Glacier Noir in a + precipitate manner, we beat a retreat, and returned to the schrund. + We again held a council, and it was unanimously decided that we + should be beaten if we could not cut along the upper edge of the + schrund, and, when nearly beneath the summit, work up to it. So Croz + took off his coat and went to work;—on ice,—not that black ice so + often mentioned and so seldom seen, but on ice as hard as ice could + be. Weary work for the guides. Croz cut for more than half-an-hour, + and we did not seem to have advanced at all. Some one behind, seeing + how great the labour was, and how slow the progress, suggested that + after all we might do better on the arête. Croz’s blood was up, and + indignant at this slight on his powers, he ceased working, turned in + his steps, and rushed towards me with a haste that made me shudder: + <span class="tei tei-q">“By all means let us go there, the sooner the + better.”</span> No slight was intended, and he resumed his work, + after a time being relieved by Almer. Half-past ten came; an hour had + passed; they were still cutting. Dreary work for us, for no capering + about could be done here; hand as well as foot holes were necessary; + the fingers and toes got very cold; the ice, as it boomed in bounding + down the bergschrund, was very suggestive; conversation was very + restricted, separated as we were by our tether of 20 feet apiece. + Another hour passed. We were now almost immediately below the summit, + and we stopped to look up. We were nearly as far off it (vertically) + as we had been more than three hours before. The day seemed going + against us. The only rocks near at hand were scattered; no bigger + than tea-cups, and most of these, we found afterwards, were glazed + with ice. Time forbade cutting right up to the <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page158">[pg 158]</span><a name="Pg158" id="Pg158" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>summit, even had it been possible, which + it was not. We decided to go up to the ridge again by means of the + rocks; but had we not had a certain confidence in each other, it + unquestionably would not have been done; for this, it must be + understood, was a situation where not only <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">might</span></span> a + slip have been fatal to every one, but it would have been so beyond + doubt: nothing, moreover, was easier than to make one. It was a place + where all had to work in unison, where there must be no slackening of + the rope, and no unnecessary tension. For another hour we were in + this trying situation, and at 12.30 we gained the arête again at a + much higher point (<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">B</span></span>), close to the summit. Our men + were, I am afraid, well-nigh worn out. Cutting up a couloir 1000 feet + high was not the right sort of preparation for work of this kind. Be + it so or not, we were all glad to rest for a short time, for we had + not sat down a minute since leaving the col six hours before. Almer, + however, was restless, knowing that midday was past, and that much + remained to be accomplished, and untied himself, and commenced + working towards the summit. Connecting the teeth of rock were beds of + snow, and Almer, only a few feet from me, was crossing the top of one + of these, when suddenly, without a moment’s warning, it broke away + under him, and plunged down on to the glacier. As he staggered for a + second, one foot in the act of stepping, and the other on the falling + mass, I thought him lost; but he happily fell on to the right side + and stopped himself. Had he taken the step with his right instead of + the left foot, he would, in all probability, have fallen several + hundred feet without touching anything, and would not have been + arrested before reaching the glacier, a vertical distance of at least + 3000 feet.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Small, + ridiculously small, as the distance was to the summit, we were + occupied nearly another hour before it was gained. Almer was a few + feet in front, and he, with characteristic modesty, hesitated to step + on the highest point, and drew back to allow us to pass. A cry was + raised for Croz, who had done the chief part of the work, but he + declined the honour, and we marched on to the <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page159">[pg 159]</span><a name="Pg159" id="Pg159" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>top simultaneously; that is to say, + clustered round it, a yard or two below, for it was much too small to + get upon.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">According to my + custom, I bagged a piece from off the highest rock (chlorite slate), + and I found afterwards that it had a striking similarity to the final + peak of the Ecrins. I have noticed the same thing on other + occasions,<a id="noteref_111" name="noteref_111" href= + "#note_111"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">111</span></span></a> and it + is worthy of remark that not only do fragments of such rock as + limestone often present the characteristic forms of the cliffs from + which they have been broken, but that morsels of mica slate will + represent, in a wonderful manner, the identical shape of the peaks of + which they have formed part. Why should it not be so if the + mountain’s mass is more or less homogeneous? The same causes which + produce the small forms fashion the large ones; the same influences + are at work; the same frost and rain give shape to the mass as well + as to its parts.</p><a name="fig52" id="fig52" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus196.png" alt= + "Illustration: Fragment from the summit of the Pointe des Ecrins" + title="FRAGMENT FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE POINTE DES ECRINS." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + FRAGMENT FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE POINTE DES ECRINS. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Did space permit + me, I could give a very poor idea of the view, but it will be readily + imagined that a panorama extending over as much ground as the whole + of England is one worth taking some trouble to see, and one which is + not often to be seen even in the Alps. No clouds obscured it, and a + list of the summits that we saw would include nearly all the highest + peaks of the chain. I saw the Pelvoux now—as I had seen the Ecrins + from it three years before—across the basin of the Glacier Noir. It + is a splendid mountain, although in height it is equalled, if not + surpassed, by its neighbour the Aléfroide.</p><span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page160">[pg 160]</span><a name="Pg160" id="Pg160" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We could stay on + the summit only a short time, and at a quarter to two prepared for + the descent. Now, as we looked down, and thought of what we had + passed over in coming up, we one and all hesitated about returning + the same way. Moore said, no. Walker said the same, and I too; the + guides were both of the same mind: this, be it remarked, although we + had considered that there was no chance whatever of getting up any + other way. But those <span class="tei tei-q">“last rocks”</span> were + not to be forgotten. Had they only protruded to a moderate extent, or + had they been merely glazed, we should doubtless still have tried: + but they were not reasonable rocks,—they would neither allow us to + hold, nor would do it themselves. So we turned to the western arête, + trusting to luck that we should find a way down to the schrund, and + some means of getting over it afterwards. Our faces were a tolerable + index to our thoughts, and apparently the thoughts of the party were + not happy ones. Had any one then said to me, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“You are a great fool for coming here,”</span> I should + have answered with humility, <span class="tei tei-q">“It is too + true.”</span> And had my monitor gone on to say, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Swear you will never ascend another mountain if you get + down safely,”</span> I am inclined to think I should have taken the + oath. In fact, the game here was not worth the risk. The guides felt + it as well as ourselves, and as Almer led off, he remarked, with more + piety than logic, <span class="tei tei-q">“The good God has brought + us up, and he will take us down in safety,”</span> which showed + pretty well what <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">he</span></span> was thinking about.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The ridge down + which we now endeavoured to make our way was not inferior in + difficulty to the other. But were serrated to an extent that made it + impossible to keep strictly to them, and obliged us to descend + occasionally for some distance on the northern face and then mount + again. Both were so rotten that the most experienced of our party, as + well as the least, continually upset blocks large and small. Both + arêtes were so narrow, so thin, that it was often a matter for + speculation on which side an unstable block would fall.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At one point it + seemed that we should be obliged to return to <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page161">[pg 161]</span><a name="Pg161" id="Pg161" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the summit and try the other way down. We + were on the very edge of the arête. On one side was the enormous + precipice facing the Pelvoux, which is not far from perpendicular; on + the other a slope exceeding 50°. A deep notch brought us to an abrupt + halt. Almer, who was leading, advanced cautiously to the edge on + hands and knees, and peered over; his care was by no means + unnecessary, for the rocks had broken away from under us unexpectedly + several times. In this position he gazed down for some moments, and + then, without a word, turned his head and looked at us. His face + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">may</span></span> have expressed apprehension or + alarm, but it certainly did not show hope or joy. We learned that + there was no means of getting down, and that we must, if we wanted to + pass the notch, jump across on to an unstable block on the other + side. It was decided that it should be done, and Almer, with a larger + extent of rope than usual, jumped. The rock swayed as he came down + upon it, but he clutched a large mass with both arms and brought + himself to anchor. That which was both difficult and dangerous for + the first man was easy enough for the others, and we got across with + less trouble than I expected; stimulated by Croz’s perfectly just + observation, that if we couldn’t get across there we were not likely + to get down the other way.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We had now arrived + at <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">C</span></span> and could no longer continue on + the arête, so we commenced descending the face again. Before long we + were close to the schrund, but unable to see what it was like at this + part, as the upper edge bent over. Two hours had already passed since + leaving the summit, and it began to be highly probable that we should + have to spend a night on the Glacier Blanc. Almer, who yet led, cut + steps right down to the edge, but still he could not see below; + therefore, warning us to hold tight, he made his whole body rigid, + and (standing in the large step which he had cut for the purpose), + had the upper part of his person lowered out until he saw what he + wanted. He shouted that our work was finished, made me come close to + the edge and untie myself, advanced the others until he had rope + enough, and then with a loud <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">jödel</span></span> jumped <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page162">[pg 162]</span><a name="Pg162" id="Pg162" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>down on to soft snow. Partly by skill and + partly by luck he had hit the crevasse at its easiest point, and we + had only to make a downward jump of eight or ten feet.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We had been more + than eight hours and a half accomplishing the ascent of the final + peak, which, according to an observation by Mr. Bonney in 1862, is + only 525 feet high.<a id="noteref_112" name="noteref_112" href= + "#note_112"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">112</span></span></a> During + this period we had not stopped for more than half-an-hour, and our + nerves and muscles had been kept at the highest degree of tension the + whole time. It may be imagined that we accepted the ordinary + conditions of glacier travelling as an agreeable relief, and that + that which at another time might have seemed formidable we treated as + the veriest bagatelle. Late in the day as it was, and soft as was the + snow, we put on such pace that we reached the Col des Ecrins in less + than forty minutes. We lost no time in arranging our baggage, for we + had still to traverse a long glacier, and to get clear of two + ice-falls before it was dark; so, at 5.35 we resumed the march, + adjourning eating and drinking, and put on a spurt which took us + clear of the Glacier Blanc by 7.45 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span><a id= + "noteref_113" name="noteref_113" href="#note_113"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">113</span></span></a> We got + off the moraine of the Glacier Noir at 8.45, just as the last remnant + of daylight vanished. Croz and myself were a trifle in advance of the + others, and fortunately so for us; for as they were about to commence + the descent of the snout of the glacier, the whole of the moraine + that rested on its face peeled off, and came down with a tremendous + roar.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We had now the + pleasure of walking over a plain that is known by the name of the Pré + de Madame Carle, covered with pebbles of all sizes, and intersected + by numerous small streams or torrents. Every hole looked like a + stone, every stone like a hole, and we tumbled about from side to + side until our limbs and our tempers became thoroughly jaded. My + companions, being both short-sighted, found the travelling especially + disagreeable; so <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page163">[pg + 163]</span><a name="Pg163" id="Pg163" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>there was little wonder that when we came upon a + huge mass of rock as big as a house, which had fallen from the flanks + of Pelvoux, a regular cube that offered no shelter whatever, Moore + cried out in ecstasy, <span class="tei tei-q">“Oh, how delightful! + the very thing I have been longing for. Let us have a perfectly + extemporaneous bivouac.”</span> This, it should be said, was when the + night threatened thunder and lightning, rain, and all other + delights.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The pleasures of a + perfectly extemporaneous bivouac under these circumstances not being + novelties to Croz and myself, we thought we would try for the + miseries of a roof; but Walker and Almer, with their usual good + nature, declared it was the very thing that they, too, were longing + for; so the trio resolved to stop. We generously left them all the + provisions (a dozen cubic inches or thereabouts of bacon fat, and + half a candle), and pushed on for the chalets of Aléfroide, or at + least we thought we did, but could not be certain. In the course of + half-an-hour we got uncommonly close to the main torrent, and Croz + all at once disappeared. I stepped cautiously forward to peer down + into the place where I thought he was, and quietly tumbled head over + heels into a big rhododendron bush. Extricating myself with some + trouble, I fell backwards over some rocks, and got wedged in a cleft + so close to the torrent that it splashed all over me.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The colloquy which + then ensued amid the thundering of the stream was as follows:—</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“Hullo, Croz!”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Eh, + Monsieur.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Where <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">are</span></span> + you?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Here, Monsieur.”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“Where <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">is</span></span> here?”</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q">“I don’t know; where are <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">you</span></span>?”</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Here, Croz;”</span> and so on.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The fact was, from + the intense darkness, and the noise of the torrent, we had no idea of + each other’s situation. In the course of ten minutes, however, we + joined together again, agreed we had had quite enough of that kind of + thing, and adjourned to a most eligible rock at 10.15.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">How well I + remember the night at that rock, and the jolly way in which Croz came + out! We were both very wet about the legs, <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page164">[pg 164]</span><a name="Pg164" id="Pg164" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>and both uncommonly hungry, but the time passed + pleasantly enough round our fire of juniper, and until long past + midnight we sat up recounting, over our pipes, wonderful stories of + the most incredible description, in which I must admit, my companion + beat me hollow. Then throwing ourselves on our beds of rhododendron, + we slept an untroubled sleep, and rose on a bright Sunday morning as + fresh as might be, intending to enjoy a day’s rest and luxury with + our friends at La Ville de Val Louise.</p><a name="fig53" id="fig53" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus201.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: A night with Croz" title="A NIGHT WITH CROZ." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + A NIGHT WITH CROZ. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I have failed to + give the impression I wish if it has not been made evident that the + ascent of the Pointe des Ecrins was not an ordinary piece of work. + There is an increasing disposition now-a-days amongst those who write + on the Alps, to underrate the difficulties and dangers which are met + with, and this disposition is, I think, not less mischievous than the + old-fashioned style of making everything terrible. Difficult as we + found the peak, I believe we <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page165">[pg 165]</span><a name="Pg165" id="Pg165" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>took it at the best, perhaps the only possible, + time of the year. The great slope on which we spent so much time was, + from being denuded by the avalanche of which I have spoken, deprived + of its greatest danger. Had it had the snow still resting upon it, + and had we persevered with the expedition, we should almost without + doubt have ended with calamity instead of success. The ice of that + slope is always below, its angle is severe, and the rocks do not + project sufficiently to afford the support that snow requires, to be + stable, when at a great angle. So far am I from desiring to tempt any + one to repeat the expedition, that I put it on record as my belief, + however sad and however miserable a man may have been, if he is found + on the summit of the Pointe des Ecrins after a fall of new snow, he + is likely to experience misery far deeper than anything with which he + has hitherto been acquainted.<a id="noteref_114" name="noteref_114" + href="#note_114"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">114</span></span></a></p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page166">[pg 166]</span><a name="Pg166" + id="Pg166" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc23" id= + "toc23"></a> <a name="pdf24" id="pdf24"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER IX.</span></h1> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">FROM VAL LOUISE TO LA BÉRARDE BY THE + COL DE PILATTE.</span><a id="noteref_115" name="noteref_115" href= + "#note_115"><span class="tei tei-noteref" style= + "text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">115</span></span></a></h1> + + <div class="tei tei-epigraph" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 9.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-lg" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-left: 1.80em; margin-top: 0.90em"> + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">How + pleasant it is for him who is saved to remember his + danger.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: right"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Euripides.</span></span> + </div> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">From Ailefroide to + Claux, but for the path, travel would be scarcely more easy than over + the Pré de Madame Carle.<a id="noteref_116" name="noteref_116" href= + "#note_116"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">116</span></span></a> The + valley is strewn with immense masses of gneiss, from the size of a + large house downwards, and it is only occasionally that rock + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">in + situ</span></span> is seen, so covered up is it by the débris, which + seems to have been derived almost entirely from the neighbouring + cliffs.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was Sunday, a + <span class="tei tei-q">“day most calm and bright.”</span> Golden + sunlight had dispersed the clouds, and was glorifying the heights, + and we forgot hunger through the brilliancy of the morning and beauty + of the mountains.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We meant the 26th + to be a day of rest, but it was little that we found in the + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">cabaret</span></span> of Claude Giraud, and we + fled before the babel of sound which rose in intensity as men + descended to a depth which is unattainable by the beasts of the + field, and found at the chalets of Entraigues<a id="noteref_117" + name="noteref_117" href="#note_117"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">117</span></span></a> the + peace that had been denied to us at Val Louise.</p><span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page167">[pg 167]</span><a name="Pg167" id="Pg167" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Again we were + received with the most cordial hospitality. Everything that was + eatable or drinkable was brought out and pressed upon us; every + little curiosity was exhibited; every information that could be + afforded was given; and when we retired to our clean straw, we again + congratulated each other that we had escaped from the foul den which + is where a good inn should be, and had cast in our lot with those who + dwell in chalets. Very luxurious that straw seemed after two nights + upon quartz pebbles and glacier mud, and I felt quite aggrieved + (expecting it was the summons for departure) when, about midnight, + the heavy wooden door creaked on its hinges, and a man hem’d and ha’d + to attract attention; but when it whispered, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Monsieur Edvard,”</span> I perceived my mistake,—it was + our Pelvoux companion, Monsieur Reynaud, the excellent <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">agent-voyer</span></span> of La Bessée.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Monsieur Reynaud + had been invited to accompany us on the excursion that is described + in this chapter, but had arrived at Val Louise after we had left, and + had energetically pursued us during the night. Our idea was that a + pass might be made over the high ridge called (on the French map) + Crête de Bœufs Rouges,<a id="noteref_118" name="noteref_118" href= + "#note_118"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">118</span></span></a> near to + the peak named Les Bans, and that it might be the shortest route in + time (as it certainly would be in distance) from Val Louise, across + the Central Dauphiné Alps. We had seen the northern (or Pilatte) side + from the Brèche de la Meije, and it seemed to be practicable at one + place near the above-mentioned mountain. More than that could not be + told at a distance of eleven miles. We intended to try to hit a point + on the ridge immediately above the part where it seemed to be + easiest.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We left Entraigues + at 3.30 on the morning of June 27, and proceeded, over very + gently-inclined ground, towards the foot of <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page168">[pg 168]</span><a name="Pg168" id="Pg168" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>the Pic de Bonvoisin (following in fact the + route of the Col de Sellar, which leads from the Val Louise into the + Val Godemar);<a id="noteref_119" name="noteref_119" href= + "#note_119"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">119</span></span></a> and at + 5 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span>, finding that there was no chance + of obtaining a view from the bottom of the valley of the ridge over + which our route was to be taken, sent Almer up the lower slopes of + the Bonvoisin to reconnoitre. He telegraphed that we might proceed; + and at 5.45 we quitted the snow-beds at the bottom of the valley for + the slopes which rose towards the north.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The course was + N.N.W., and was prodigiously steep. <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">In less than two miles + difference of latitude we rose one mile of absolute + height.</span></span> But the route was so far from being an + exceptionally difficult one, that at 10.45 we stood on the summit of + the pass, having made an ascent of more than 5000 feet in five hours, + inclusive of halts.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Upon sheet 189 of + the French map a glacier is laid down on the south of the Crête des + Bœufs Rouges, extending along the entire length of the ridge, at its + foot, from east to west. In 1864 this glacier did not exist as + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">one</span></span> glacier, but in the place + where it should have been there were several small ones, all of which + were, I believe, separated from each other.<a id="noteref_120" name= + "noteref_120" href="#note_120"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">120</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We commenced the + ascent from the Val d’Entraigues, to the west of the most western of + these small glaciers, and quitted the valley by the first great gap + in its cliffs after that glacier was passed. We did not take to the + ice until it afforded an easier route than the rocks; then (8.30) + Croz went to the front, and led with admirable skill through a maze + of crevasses up to the foot of a great snow <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">couloir</span></span>, + that rose from the head of the glacier to the summit of the ridge + over which we had to pass.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We had settled + beforehand in London, without knowing any<span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page169">[pg 169]</span><a name="Pg169" id="Pg169" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>thing whatever about the place, that such a + couloir as this should be in this angle; but when we got into the Val + d’Entraigues, and found that it was not possible to see into the + corner, our faith in its existence became less and less, until the + telegraphing of Almer, who was sent up the opposite slopes to search + for it, assured us that we were true prophets.</p><a name="fig54" id= + "fig54" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus206.png" alt="Illustration: A snow couloir" + title="A SNOW COULOIR." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + A SNOW COULOIR. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Snow <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">couloirs</span></span> + are nothing more or less than gullies partly filled by snow. They are + most useful institutions, and may be considered as natural highways + placed, by a kind Providence, in convenient situations for getting + over places which would otherwise be inac<span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page170">[pg 170]</span><a name="Pg170" id="Pg170" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>cessible. They are a joy to the mountaineer, + and, from afar, assure him of a path when all beside is uncertain; + but they are grief to novices, who, when upon steep snow, are usually + seized with two notions—first, that the snow will slip, and secondly, + that those who are upon it must slip too.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Nothing, perhaps, + could look much more unpromising to those who do not know the virtues + of couloirs than such a place as the <a href="#fig54" class= + "tei tei-ref">engraving</a> represents,<a id="noteref_121" name= + "noteref_121" href="#note_121"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">121</span></span></a> and if + persons inexperienced in mountain craft had occasion to cross a ridge + or to climb rocks, in which there were such couloirs, they would + instinctively avoid them. But practised mountaineers would naturally + look to them for a path, and would follow them almost as a matter of + course, unless they turned out to be filled with ice, or too much + swept by falling stones, or the rock at the sides proved to be of + such an exceptional character as to afford an easier path than the + snow.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Couloirs look + prodigiously steep when seen from the front, and, so viewed, it is + impossible to be certain of their inclination within many degrees. + Snow, however, does actually lie at steeper angles in couloirs than + in any other situations;—45° to 50° degrees is not an uncommon + inclination. Even at such angles, two men with proper axes can mount + on snow at the rate of 700 to 800 feet per hour. The same amount can + only be accomplished in the same time on steep rocks when they are of + the very easiest character, and four or five hours may be readily + spent upon an equal height of difficult rocks. Snow couloirs are + therefore to be commended because they economise time.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Of course, in all + gullies, one is liable to be encountered by falling stones. Most of + those which fall from the rocks of a couloir, sooner or later spin + down the snow which fills the trough; and, as their course and pace + are more clearly apparent when falling over snow than when jumping + from ledge to ledge, persons with lively <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page171">[pg 171]</span><a name="Pg171" id="Pg171" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>imaginations are readily impressed by them. The + grooves which are usually seen wandering down the length of snow + couloirs are deepened (and, perhaps, occasionally originated) by + falling stones, and they are sometimes pointed out by cautious men as + reasons why couloirs should not be followed. I think they are very + frequently only gutters, caused by water trickling off the rocks. + Whether this is so or not, one should always consider the possibility + of being struck by falling stones, and, in order to lessen the risk + as far as possible, should mount upon the sides of the snow, and not + up its centre. Stones that come off the rocks will then generally fly + over one’s head, or bound down the middle of the trough at a safe + distance.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At 9.30 + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> we commenced the ascent of the + couloir leading from the nameless glacier to a point in the ridge, + just to the east of Mont Bans.<a id="noteref_122" name="noteref_122" + href="#note_122"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">122</span></span></a> So far + the route had been nothing more than a steep grind in an angle where + little could be seen, but now views opened out in several directions, + and the way began to be interesting. It was more so, perhaps, to us + than to our companion M. Reynaud, who had no rest in the last night. + He was, moreover, heavily laden. Science was to be regarded—his + pockets were stuffed with books; heights and angles were to be + observed—his knapsack was filled with instruments; hunger was to be + guarded against—his shoulders were ornamented with a huge nimbus of + bread, and a leg of mutton swung behind from his knapsack, looking + like an overgrown tail. Being a good-hearted fellow, he had brought + this food, thinking we might be in need of it. As it happened, we + were well provided for, and having our own packs to carry, could not + relieve him of his superfluous burdens, which, naturally, he did not + like to throw away. As the angles steepened, the strain on his + strength became more and more apparent. At last he began to groan. At + first a most gentle and mellow groan; <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page172">[pg 172]</span><a name="Pg172" id="Pg172" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>but as we rose so did his groans, till at last + the cliffs were groaning in echo, and we were moved to laughter.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Croz cut the way + with unflagging energy throughout the whole of the ascent, and at + 10.45 we stood on the summit of our pass, intending to refresh + ourselves with a good halt. Unhappily, at that moment a mist, which + had been playing about the ridge, swooped down and blotted out the + whole of the view on the northern side. Croz was the only one who + caught a glimpse of the descent, and it was deemed advisable to push + on immediately, while its recollection was fresh in his memory. We + are consequently unable to tell anything about the summit of the + pass, except that it lies immediately to the east of Mont Bans, and + is elevated about 11,300 feet above the level of the sea. It is the + highest pass in Dauphiné. We called it the Col de Pilatte.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We commenced to + descend towards the Glacier de Pilatte by a slope of smooth ice, the + face of which, according to the measurement of Mr. Moore, had an + inclination of 54°! Croz still led, and the others followed at + intervals of about 15 feet, all being tied together, and Almer + occupying the responsible position of last man. The two guides were + therefore about 70 feet apart. They were quite invisible to each + other from the mist, and looked spectral even to us. But the + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">strong</span></span> man could be heard by all + hewing out the steps below, while every now and then the voice of the + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">steady</span></span> man pierced the + cloud,—<span class="tei tei-q">“Slip not, dear sirs; place well your + feet: stir not until you are certain.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">For three quarters + of an hour we progressed in this fashion. The axe of Croz all at once + stopped. <span class="tei tei-q">“What is the matter, Croz?”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“Bergschrund, gentlemen.”</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Can we get over?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Upon + my word, I don’t know; I think we must jump.”</span> The clouds + rolled away right and left as he spoke. The effect was dramatic! It + was a <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">coup + de théâtre</span></span>, preparatory to the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“great sensation leap”</span> which was about to be + executed by the entire company.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Some unseen cause, + some cliff or obstruction in the rocks underneath, had caused our + wall of ice to split into two portions, <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page173">[pg 173]</span><a name="Pg173" id="Pg173" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>and the huge fissure which had thus been formed + extended, on each hand, as far as could be seen. We, on the slope + above, were separated from the slope below by a mighty crevasse. No + running up and down to look for an easier place to cross could be + done on an ice-slope of 54°; the chasm had to be passed then and + there.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A downward jump of + 15 or 16 feet, and a forward leap of 7 or 8 feet had to be made at + the same time. That is not much, you will say. It was not much; it + was not the quantity, but it was the quality of the jump which gave + to it its particular flavour. You had to hit a narrow ridge of ice. + If that was passed, it seemed as if you might roll down for ever and + ever. If it was not attained, you dropped into the crevasse below; + which, although partly choked by icicles and snow that had fallen + from above, was still gaping in many places, ready to receive an + erratic body.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Croz untied Walker + in order to get rope enough, and warning us to hold fast, sprang over + the chasm. He alighted cleverly on his feet; untied himself and sent + up the rope to Walker, who followed his example. It was then my turn, + and I advanced to the edge of the ice. The second which followed was + what is called a supreme moment. That is to say, I felt supremely + ridiculous. The world seemed to revolve at a frightful pace, and my + stomach to fly away. The next moment I found myself sprawling in the + snow, and then, of course, vowed that <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">it was + nothing</span></span>, and prepared to encourage my friend + Reynaud.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">He came to the + edge and made declarations. I do not believe that he was a whit more + reluctant to pass the place than we others, but he was infinitely + more demonstrative,—in a word, he was French. He wrung his hands, + <span class="tei tei-q">“Oh! what a <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">diable</span></span> of + a place!”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“It is nothing, + Reynaud,”</span> I said, <span class="tei tei-q">“it is <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">nothing</span></span>.”</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Jump,”</span> cried the others, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“jump.”</span> But he turned round, as far as one can do + such a thing in an ice-step, and covered his face with his hands, + ejaculating, <span class="tei tei-q">“Upon my word, it is not + possible. No! no!! no!!! it is not possible.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">How he came over I + do not know. We saw a toe—it seemed <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page174">[pg 174]</span><a name="Pg174" id="Pg174" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>to belong to Moore; we saw Reynaud a flying + body, coming down as if taking a header into water; with arms and + legs all abroad, his leg of mutton flying in the air, his bâton + escaped from his grasp; and then we heard a thud as if a bundle of + carpets had been pitched out of a window. When set upon his feet he + was a sorry spectacle; his head was a great snowball; brandy was + trickling out of one side of the knapsack, chartreuse out of the + other—we bemoaned its loss, but we roared with laughter.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This chapter has + already passed the limits within which it should have been confined, + but I cannot close it without paying tribute to the ability with + which Croz led us, through a dense mist, down the remainder of the + Glacier de Pilatte. As an exhibition of strength and skill, it has + probably never been surpassed in the Alps or elsewhere. On this + almost unknown and very steep glacier, he was perfectly at home, even + in the mists. Never able to see fifty feet ahead, he still went on + with the utmost certainty, and without having to retrace a single + step; and displayed from first to last consummate knowledge of the + materials with which he was dealing. Now he cut steps down one side + of a <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">sérac</span></span>, went with a dash at the + other side, and hauled us up after him; then cut away along a ridge + until a point was gained from which we could jump on to another + ridge; then, doubling back, found a snow-bridge, across which he + crawled on hands and knees, towed us across by the legs, ridiculing + our apprehensions, mimicking our awkwardness, declining all help, + bidding us only to follow him.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">About 1 + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> we emerged from the mist and + found ourselves just arrived upon the level portion of the glacier, + having, as Reynaud properly remarked, come down as quickly as if + there had not been any mist at all. Then we attacked the leg of + mutton which my friend had so thoughtfully brought with him, and + afterwards raced down, with renewed energy, to La Bérarde.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Reynaud and I + walked together to St. Christophe, where we parted. Since then we + have talked over the doings of this <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page175">[pg 175]</span><a name="Pg175" id="Pg175" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>momentous day; and I know that he would not, for + a good deal, have missed the passage of the Col de Pilatte, although + we failed to make it an easier or a shorter route than the Col du + Selé. I rejoined Moore and Walker, the same evening, at Venos, and on + the next day went with them over the Lautaret road to the hospice on + its summit, where we slept.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">So our little + campaign in Dauphiné came to an end. It was remarkable for the + absence of failures, and for the ease and precision with which all + our plans were carried out. This was due very much to the spirit of + my companions; but it was also owing to the fine weather which we + were fortunate enough to enjoy, and to our making a very early start + every morning. By beginning our work at or before the break of day, + on the longest days in the year, we were not only able to avoid + hurrying when deliberation was desirable, but could afford to spend + several hours in delightful ease whenever the fancy seized us.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I cannot too + strongly recommend to tourists in search of amusement to avoid the + inns of Dauphiné. Sleep in the chalets. Get what food you can from + the inns, but do not as a rule attempt to pass nights in them.<a id= + "noteref_123" name="noteref_123" href="#note_123"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">123</span></span></a> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Sleep</span></span> in them you cannot. M. + Joanne says that the inventor of the insecticide powder was a native + of Dauphiné. I can well believe it. He must have often felt the + necessity of such an invention in his infancy and childhood.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On June 29 I + crossed the Col du Galibier to St. Michel; on the 30th, the Col des + Encombres to Moutiers; on July 1, the Col du Bonhomme to Contamines; + and on the 2d, by the Pavilion de Bellevue to Chamounix, where I + joined Mr. Adams-Reilly to take part in some expeditions which had + been planned long before.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page176">[pg 176]</span><a name="Pg176" + id="Pg176" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc25" id= + "toc25"></a> <a name="pdf26" id="pdf26"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER X.</span></h1> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DE + TRIOLET, AND FIRST ASCENTS OF MONT DOLENT, AIGUILLE DE TRÉLATÊTE, AND + AIGUILLE D’ARGENTIÈRE.</span></h1> + + <div class="tei tei-epigraph" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 9.00em"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 0.90em"><span class="tei tei-q" + style="text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Nothing binds + men so closely together as agreement in plans and + desires.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span><br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Cicero.</span></span></p> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A few years ago + not many persons knew from personal knowledge how extremely + inaccurately the chain of Mont Blanc was delineated. In the earlier + part of the century thousands had made the tour of the chain, and + before the year 1860 at least <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">one</span></span> thousand individuals had stood + upon its highest summit; but out of all this number there was not one + capable, willing, or able, to map the mountain which, until recently, + was regarded the highest in Europe.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Many persons knew + that great blunders had been perpetrated, and it was notorious that + even Mont Blanc itself was represented in a ludicrously incorrect + manner on all sides excepting the north; but there was not, perhaps, + a single individual who knew, at the time to which I refer, that + errors of no less than 1000 feet had been committed in the + determination of heights at each end of the chain; that some glaciers + were represented of double their real dimensions; and that ridges and + mountains were laid down which actually had no existence.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">One portion alone + of the entire chain had been surveyed at the time of which I speak + with anything like accuracy. It was not done (as one would have + expected) by a Government, but by a private individual,—by the + British De Saussure,—the late J. D. Forbes. In the year 1842, he + <span class="tei tei-q">“made a special survey of the <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page177">[pg 177]</span><a name="Pg177" id="Pg177" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>Mer de Glace of Chamounix and its + tributaries, which, in some of the following years, he extended by + further observations, so as to include the Glacier des + Bossons.”</span> The map produced from this survey was worthy of its + author; and subsequent explorers of the region he investigated have + been able to detect only trivial inaccuracies in his work.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In 1861, Sheet + xxii. of Dufour’s Map of Switzerland appeared. It included the + section of the chain of Mont Blanc that belonged to Switzerland, and + this portion of the sheet was executed with the admirable fidelity + and thoroughness which characterise the whole of Dufour’s unique map. + The remainder of the chain (amounting to about four-fifths of the + whole) was laid down after the work of previous topographers, and its + wretchedness was made more apparent by contrast with the finished + work of the Swiss surveyors.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In 1863, Mr. + Adams-Reilly, who had been travelling in the Alps during several + years, resolved to attempt a survey of the unsurveyed portions of the + chain of Mont Blanc. He provided himself with a good theodolite, and + starting from a base-line measured by Forbes in the Valley of + Chamounix, determined the positions of no less than 200 points. The + accuracy of his work may be judged from the fact that, after having + turned many corners and carried his observations over a distance of + fifty miles, his Col Ferret <span class="tei tei-q">“fell within 200 + yards of the position assigned to it by General Dufour!”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In the winter of + 1863 and the spring of 1864, Mr. Reilly constructed an entirely + original map from his newly-acquired data. The spaces between his + trigonometrically determined points he filled in after photographs, + and a series of panoramic sketches which he made from his different + stations. The map so produced was an immense advance upon those + already in existence, and it was the first which exhibited the great + peaks in their proper positions.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This extraordinary + piece of work revealed Mr. Reilly to me as a man of wonderful + determination and perseverance. With very small hope that my proposal + would be accepted, I invited him to take part in renewed attacks on + the Matterhorn. He entered <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page178">[pg + 178]</span><a name="Pg178" id="Pg178" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>heartily into my plans, and met me with a + counter-proposition, namely, that I should accompany him on some + expeditions which he had projected in the chain of Mont Blanc. The + unwritten contract took this form:—I will help you to carry out your + desires, and you shall assist me to carry out mine. I eagerly closed + with an arrangement in which all the advantages were upon my + side.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At the time that + Mr. Reilly was carrying on his survey, Captain Mieulet was executing + another in continuation of the great map of France; for about + one-half of the chain of Mont Blanc (including the whole of the + valley of Chamounix) had recently become French once more. Captain + Mieulet was directed to survey up to his frontier only, and the sheet + which was destined to include his work was to be engraved, of course, + upon the scale of the rest of the map, viz., 1/80000 of nature. But + upon representations being made at head-quarters that it would be of + great advantage to extend the survey as far as <a name="corr178" id= + "corr178" class="tei tei-anchor"></a><span class= + "tei tei-corr">Courmayeur</span>, Captain Mieulet was directed to + continue his observations into the south (or Italian) side of the + chain. A special sheet on the scale of 1/40000 was promptly engraved + from the materials he accumulated, and was published in 1865, by + order of the late Minister of War, Marshal Randon.<a id="noteref_124" + name="noteref_124" href="#note_124"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">124</span></span></a> This + sheet was admirably executed, but it included the central portion of + the chain only, and a complete map was still wanting.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Mr. Reilly + presented his MS. map to the English Alpine Club. It was resolved + that it should be published; but before it passed into the engraver’s + hands its author undertook to revise it carefully. To this end he + planned a number of expeditions to high points which up to that time + had been regarded inaccessible, and upon some of these ascents he + invited me to accompany him. Before I pass on to these expeditions, + it will be convenient to devote a few lines to the topography of the + chain of Mont Blanc.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At the present + time the chain is divided betwixt France, Switzerland, and Italy. + France has the lion’s share, Switzerland <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page179">[pg 179]</span><a name="Pg179" id="Pg179" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>the most fertile portion, and Italy the steepest + side. It has acquired a reputation which is not extraordinary, but + which is not wholly merited. It has neither the beauty of the + Oberland, nor the sublimity of Dauphiné. It attracts the vulgar by + the possession of the highest summit in the Alps. If that is removed, + the elevation of the chain is in nowise remarkable. In fact, + excluding Mont Blanc itself, the mountains of which the chain is made + up are less important than those of the Oberland and the central + Pennine groups. The following table will afford a ready means of + comparison.<a id="noteref_125" name="noteref_125" href= + "#note_125"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">125</span></span></a></p> + + <table summary="This is a table" cellspacing="0" class= + "tei tei-table" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> + <colgroup span="4"></colgroup> + + <tbody> + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">Mètres.</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">Eng. feet</span></span><a id="noteref_126" + name="noteref_126" href="#note_126"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">126</span></span></a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">1.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Mont Blanc</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">4810 =</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">15,781</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">2.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Grandes Jorasses</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">4206 .</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">13,800</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">3.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aiguille Verte</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">4127 .</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">13,540</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">4.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aiguille de Bionnassay</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">4061 .</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">13,324</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">5.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Les Droites</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">4030 .</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">13,222</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">6.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aiguille du Géant</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">4010 .</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">13,157</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">7.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aiguille de Trélatête, No. 1</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">3932 .</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">12,900</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aiguille de Trélatête, No. 2</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">3904 .</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">12,809</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aiguille de Trélatête, No. 3</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">3896 .</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">12,782</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">8.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aiguille d’Argentière</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">3901 .</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">12,799</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">9.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aiguille de Triolet</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">3879 .</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">12,726</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">10.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aiguille du Midi</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">3843 .</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">12,608</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">11.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aiguille du Glacier</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">3834 .</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">12,579</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">12.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Mont Dolent</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">3830 .</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">12,566</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">13.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aiguille du Chardonnet</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">3823 .</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">12,543</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">14.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aiguille du Dru</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">3815 .</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">12,517</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">15.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aiguille de Miage</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">3680 .</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">12,074</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">16.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aiguille du Plan</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">3673 .</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">12,051</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">17.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aiguille de Blaitière</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">3533 .</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">11,591</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">18.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aiguille des Charmoz</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">3442 .</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">11,293</td> + </tr> + </tbody> + </table> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The frontier-line + follows the main ridge. Very little of it can be seen from the Valley + of Chamounix, and from the village itself two small strips only are + visible (amounting to scarcely three miles <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page180">[pg 180]</span><a name="Pg180" id="Pg180" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>in length)—viz. from the summit of Mont Blanc to + the Dôme du Goûter, and in the neighbourhood of the Col de Balme. All + the rest is concealed by outlying ridges and by mountains of + secondary importance.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Mont Blanc itself + is bounded by the two glaciers of Miage, the glaciers de la Brenva + and du Géant, the Val Véni and the Valley of Chamounix. A long ridge + runs out towards the N.N.E. from the summit, through Mont Maudit, to + the Aiguille du Midi. Another ridge proceeds towards the N.W., + through the Bosse du Dromadaire to the Dôme du Goûter; this then + divides into two, of which one continues N.W. to the Aiguille du + Goûter, and the other (which is a part of the main ridge of the + chain) towards the W. to the Aiguille de Bionnassay. The two routes + which are commonly followed for the ascent of Mont Blanc lie between + these two principal ridges—one leading from Chamounix, <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">viâ</span></span> the + Grands Mulets, the other from the village of Bionnassay, <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">viâ</span></span> the + Aiguille and Dôme du Goûter.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The ascent of Mont + Blanc has been made from several directions besides these, and + perhaps there is no single point of the compass from which the + mountain cannot be ascended. But there is not the least probability + that any one will discover easier ways to the summit than those + already known.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I believe it is + correct to say that the Aiguille du Midi and the Aiguille de Miage + were the only two summits in the chain of Mont Blanc which had been + ascended at the beginning of 1864.<a id="noteref_127" name= + "noteref_127" href="#note_127"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">127</span></span></a> The + latter of these two is a perfectly insignificant point; and the + former is only a portion of one of the ridges just now mentioned, and + can hardly be regarded as a mountain separate and distinct from Mont + Blanc. The really great peaks of the chain were considered + inaccessible, and, I think, with the exception of the Aiguille Verte, + had never been assailed.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The finest, as + well as the highest peak in the chain (after Mont Blanc itself), is + the Grandes Jorasses. The next, without a <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page181">[pg 181]</span><a name="Pg181" id="Pg181" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>doubt, is the Aiguille Verte. The Aiguille de + Bionnassay, which in actual height follows the Verte, should be + considered as a part of Mont Blanc; and in the same way the summit + called Les Droites is only a part of the ridge which culminates in + the Verte. The Aiguille de Trélatête is the next on the list that is + entitled to be considered a separate mountain, and is by far the most + important peak (as well as the highest) at the south-west end of the + chain. Then comes the Aiguille d’Argentière, which occupies the same + rank at the north-east end as the last-mentioned mountain does in the + south-west. The rest of the aiguilles are comparatively + insignificant; and although some of them (such as the Mont Dolent) + look well from low elevations, and seem to possess a certain + importance, they sink into their proper places directly one arrives + at a considerable altitude.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The summit of the + Aiguille Verte would have been one of the best stations out of all + these mountains for the purposes of my friend. Its great height, and + its isolated and commanding position, make it a most admirable point + for viewing the intricacies of the chain; but he exercised a wise + discretion in passing it by, and in selecting as our first excursion + the passage of the Col de Triolet.<a id="noteref_128" name= + "noteref_128" href="#note_128"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">128</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We slept under + some big rocks on the Couvercle on the night of July 7, with the + thermometer at 26·5 Faht., and at 4.30 on the 8th made a straight + track to the north of the Jardin, and thence went in zigzags, to + break the ascent, over the upper slopes of the Glacier de Talèfre + towards the foot of the Aiguille de Triolet. Croz was still my guide, + Reilly was accompanied by one of the Michel Payots of Chamounix, and + Henri Charlet, of the same place, was our porter.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The way was over + an undulating plain of glacier of moderate inclination until the + corner leading to the Col, from whence a steep secondary glacier led + down into the basin of the Talèfre. We experienced no difficulty in + making the ascent of this secondary <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page182">[pg 182]</span><a name="Pg182" id="Pg182" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>glacier with such ice-men as Croz and Payot, and + at 7.50 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> arrived on the top of the + so-called pass, at a height, according to Mieulet, of 12,162 feet, + and 4530 above our camp on the Couvercle.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The descent was + commenced by very steep, but firm, rocks, and then by a branch of the + Glacier de Triolet. Schrunds<a id="noteref_129" name="noteref_129" + href="#note_129"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">129</span></span></a> were + abundant; there were no less than five extending completely across + the glacier, all of which had to be jumped. Not one was equal in + dimensions to the extraordinary chasm on the Col de Pilatte, although + in the aggregate they far surpassed it. <span class="tei tei-q">“Our + lives,”</span> so Reilly expressed it, <span class="tei tei-q">“were + made a burden to us with schrunds.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We flattered + ourselves that we should arrive at the chalets of Prè du Bar very + early in the day; but, owing to much time being lost on the slopes of + Mont Rouge, it was nearly 4 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> before we got to them. There were + no bridges across the torrent nearer than Gruetta, and rather than + descend so far, we preferred to round the base of Mont Rouge, and to + cross the snout of the Glacier du Mont Dolent.<a id="noteref_130" + name="noteref_130" href="#note_130"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">130</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We occupied the + 9th with a scramble up Mont Dolent. This was a miniature ascent. It + contained a little of everything. First we went up to the Col Ferret + (No. 1), and had a little grind over shaly banks; then there was a + little walk over grass; then a little tramp over a moraine (which, + strange to say, gave a pleasant path); then a little zigzagging over + the snow-covered glacier of Mont Dolent. Then there was a little + bergschrund; then a little wall of snow,—which we mounted by the side + of a little buttress; and when we struck the ridge descending S.E. + from the summit, we found a little arête of snow leading to the + highest point. The summit itself was little,—very small indeed; it + was the loveliest little cone of snow that was ever piled up on + mountain-top; so <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page183">[pg + 183]</span><a name="Pg183" id="Pg183" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>soft, so pure; it seemed a crime to defile it; + it was a miniature Jungfrau, a toy summit, you could cover it with + the hand.<a id="noteref_131" name="noteref_131" href= + "#note_131"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">131</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">But there was + nothing little about the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">view</span></span> from the Mont Dolent. + [Situated at the junction of three mountain ridges, it rises in a + positive steeple far above anything in its immediate neighbourhood; + and certain gaps in the surrounding ridges, which seem contrived for + that especial purpose, extend the view in almost every direction. The + precipices which descend to the Glacier d’Argentière I can only + compare to those of the Jungfrau, and the ridges on both sides of + that glacier, especially the steep rocks of Les Droites and Les + Courtes, surmounted by the sharp snow-peak of the Aig. Verte, have + almost the effect of the Grandes Jorasses. Then, framed, as it were, + between the massive tower of the Aig. de Triolet and the more distant + Jorasses, lies, without exception, the most delicately beautiful + picture I have ever seen—the whole <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">massif</span></span> of + Mont Blanc, raising its great head of snow far above the tangled + series of flying buttresses which uphold the Monts Maudits, supported + on the left by Mont Peuteret and by the mass of ragged aiguilles + which overhang the Brenva. This aspect of Mont Blanc is not new, but + from this point its <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">pose</span></span> is unrivalled, and it has all + the superiority of a picture grouped by the hand of a master.... The + view is as extensive, and far more lovely than that from Mont Blanc + itself.]<a id="noteref_132" name="noteref_132" href= + "#note_132"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">132</span></span></a></p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We went down to + Courmayeur, and on the afternoon of July 10 started from that place + to camp on Mont Suc, for the ascent of the Aiguille de Trélatête; + hopeful that the mists which were hanging about would clear away. + They did not, so we deposited ourselves, and a vast load of straw, on + the moraine of the Miage Glacier, just above the Lac de Combal, in a + charming little hole which some solitary shepherd had excavated + beneath a great slab of rock. We spent the night there, and the whole + of the next day, unwilling <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page184">[pg + 184]</span><a name="Pg184" id="Pg184" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>to + run away, and equally so to get into difficulties by venturing into + the mist. It was a dull time, and I grew restless. Reilly read to me + a lecture on the excellence of patience, and composed himself in an + easy attitude, to pore over the pages of a yellow-covered book. + <span class="tei tei-q">“Patience,”</span> I said to him viciously, + <span class="tei tei-q">“comes readily to fellows who have shilling + novels; but I have not got one; I have picked all the mud out of the + nails of my boots, and have skinned my face; what shall I do?”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“Go and study the moraine of the + Miage,”</span> said he. I went, and came back after an hour. + <span class="tei tei-q">“What news?”</span> cried Reilly, raising + himself on his elbow. <span class="tei tei-q">“Very little; it’s a + big moraine, bigger than I thought, with ridge outside ridge, like a + fortified camp; and there are walls upon it which have been built and + loop-holed, as if for defence.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Try + again,”</span> he said, as he threw himself on his back. But I went + to Croz, who was asleep, and tickled his nose with a straw until he + awoke; and then, as that amusement was played out, watched Reilly, + who was getting numbed, and shifted uneasily from side to side, and + threw himself on his stomach, and rested his head on his elbows, and + lighted his pipe and puffed at it savagely. When I looked again, how + was Reilly? An indistinguishable heap; arms, legs, head, stones, and + straw, all mixed together, his hat flung on one side, his novel + tossed far away! Then I went to him, and read him a lecture on the + excellence of patience.</p><a name="fig55" id="fig55" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus221a.png" alt= + "Illustration: Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day" /></div> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus221b.png" alt= + "Illustration: Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day" /></div> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus221c.png" alt= + "Illustration: Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day" /></div> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus221d.png" alt= + "Illustration: Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day" /></div> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus221e.png" alt= + "Illustration: Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Bah! it was a dull + time. Our mountain, like a beautiful coquette, sometimes unveiled + herself for a moment, and looked charming above, although + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page185">[pg 185]</span><a name="Pg185" + id="Pg185" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>very mysterious below. It was + not until eventide she allowed us to approach her; then, as darkness + came on, the curtains were withdrawn, the light drapery was lifted, + and we stole up on tiptoe through the grand portal formed by Mont + Suc. But night advanced rapidly, and we found ourselves left out in + the cold, without a hole to creep into or shelter from overhanging + rock. We might have fared badly, except for our good plaids. When + they were sewn together down their long edges, and one end tossed + over our rope (which was passed round some rocks), and the other + secured by stones, there was sufficient protection; and we slept on + this exposed ridge, 9700 feet above the level of the sea, more + soundly, perhaps, than if we had been lying on feather + beds.</p><a name="fig56" id="fig56" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus222.png" alt= + "Illustration: Our camp on Mont Suc" title= + "OUR CAMP ON MONT SUC.133133From a sketch by Mr. Adams-Reilly." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + OUR CAMP ON MONT SUC.<a id="noteref_133" name="noteref_133" href= + "#note_133"><span class="tei tei-noteref" style= + "text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">133</span></span></a> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We left our + bivouac at 4.45 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span>, and at 9.40 arrived upon the + highest of the three summits of the Trélatête, by passing over the + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page186">[pg 186]</span><a name="Pg186" + id="Pg186" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>lowest one. It was well above + everything at this end of the chain, and the view from it was + extraordinarily magnificent. The whole of the western face of Mont + Blanc was spread out before us; we were the first by whom it had been + ever seen. I cede the description of this view to my comrade, to whom + it rightfully belongs.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">[For four years I + had felt great interest in the geography of the chain; the year + before I had mapped, more or less successfully, all but this spot, + and this spot had always eluded my grasp. The praises, undeserved as + they were, which my map had received, were as gall and wormwood to me + when I thought of that great slope which I had been obliged to leave + a blank, speckled over with unmeaning dots of rock, gathered from + previous maps—for I had consulted them all without meeting an + intelligible representation of it. From the surface of the Miage + glacier I had gained nothing, for I could only see the feet of + magnificent ice-streams, and no more; but now, from the top of the + dead wall of rock which had so long closed my view, I saw those fine + glaciers from top to bottom, pouring down their streams, nearly as + large as the Bossons, from Mont Blanc, from the Bosse, and from the + Dôme.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The head of Mont + Blanc is supported on this side by two buttresses, between which vast + glaciers descend. Of these the most southern<a id="noteref_134" name= + "noteref_134" href="#note_134"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">134</span></span></a> takes + its rise at the foot of the precipices which fall steeply down from + the Calotte,<a id="noteref_135" name="noteref_135" href= + "#note_135"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">135</span></span></a> and its + stream, as it joins that of the Miage, is cut in two by an enormous + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">rognon</span></span> of rock. Next, to the left, + comes the largest of the buttresses of which I have spoken, almost + forming an aiguille in itself. The next glacier<a id="noteref_136" + name="noteref_136" href="#note_136"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">136</span></span></a> + descends from a large basin which receives the snows of the + summit-ridge between the Bosse and the Dome, and it is divided from + the third and last glacier<a id="noteref_137" name="noteref_137" + href="#note_137"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">137</span></span></a> by + another buttress, which joins the summit-ridge at a point between the + Dôme and the Aig. de Bionnassay.]</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The great + buttresses betwixt these magnificent ice-streams have <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page187">[pg 187]</span><a name="Pg187" id="Pg187" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>supplied a large portion of the enormous + masses of débris which are disposed in ridges round about, and are + strewn over, the termination of the Glacier de Miage in the Val Véni. + These moraines<a id="noteref_138" name="noteref_138" href= + "#note_138"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">138</span></span></a> used to + be classed amongst the wonders of the world. They are very large for + a glacier of the size of the Miage.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The dimensions of + moraines are not ruled by those of glaciers. Many small glaciers have + large moraines,<a id="noteref_139" name="noteref_139" href= + "#note_139"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">139</span></span></a> and + many large ones have small moraines. The size of the moraines of any + glacier depends mainly upon the area of rock surface that is exposed + to atmospheric influences within the basin drained by the glacier; + upon the nature of such rock,—whether it is friable or resistant; and + upon the dip of strata. Moraines most likely will be small if little + rock surface is exposed; but when large ones are seen, then, in all + probability, large areas of rock, uncovered by snow or ice, will be + found in immediate contiguity to the glacier. The Miage glacier has + large ones, because it receives detritus from many great cliffs and + ridges. But if this glacier, instead of lying, as it does, at the + bottom of a trough, were to fill that trough, if it were to + completely envelope the Aiguille de Trélatête, and the other + mountains which border it, and were to descend from Mont Blanc + unbroken by rock or ridge, it would be as destitute of morainic + matter as the great <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Mer de Glace</span></span> of Greenland. For if + a country or district is <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">completely</span></span> covered up by glacier, + the moraines may be of the very smallest dimensions.<a id= + "noteref_140" name="noteref_140" href="#note_140"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">140</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The contributions + that are supplied to moraines by glaciers themselves, from the + abrasion of the rocks over which their ice passes, are minute + compared with the accumulations which are <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page188">[pg 188]</span><a name="Pg188" id="Pg188" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>furnished from other sources. These great + rubbish-heaps are formed, one may say almost entirely, from débris + which falls, or is washed down the flanks of mountains, or from + cliffs bordering glaciers; and are composed, to a very limited extent + only, of matter that is ground, rasped, or filed off by the friction + of the ice.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">If the contrary + view were to be adopted, if it could be maintained that <span class= + "tei tei-q">“glaciers, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">by their motion, break off masses of rock from + the sides and bottoms of their valley courses</span></span>, and + crowd along every thing that is movable, so as to form large + accumulations of débris in front, and along their + sides,”</span><a id="noteref_141" name="noteref_141" href= + "#note_141"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">141</span></span></a> the + conclusion could not be resisted, the greater the glacier, the + greater should be the moraine.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This doctrine does + not find much favour with those who have personal knowledge of what + glaciers do at the present time. From De Saussure<a id="noteref_142" + name="noteref_142" href="#note_142"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">142</span></span></a> + downwards it has been pointed out, time after time, that moraines are + chiefly formed from débris coming from rocks or soil <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">above</span></span> the + ice, not from the bed over which it passes. But amongst the writings + of modern speculators upon glaciers and glacier-action in bygone + times, it is not uncommon to find the notions entertained, that + moraines represent the amount of <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">excavation</span></span> + (such is the term employed) performed by glaciers, or at least are + comprised of matter which has been excavated by glaciers; that vast + moraines have necessarily been produced by vast glaciers; and that a + great extension of glaciers necessarily causes the production of vast + moraines. Such generalisations cannot be sustained.</p><span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page189">[pg 189]</span><a name="Pg189" id="Pg189" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We descended in + our track to the Lac de Combal, and from thence went over the Col de + la Seigne to les Motets, where we slept; on July 13, crossed the Col + du Mont Tondu to Contamines (in a sharp thunderstorm), and the Col de + Voza to Chamounix. Two days only remained for excursions in this + neighbourhood, and we resolved to employ them in another attempt to + ascend the Aiguille d’Argentière, upon which mountain we had been + cruelly defeated just eight days before.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It happened in + this way.—Reilly had a notion that the ascent of the Aiguille could + be accomplished by following the ridge leading to its summit from the + Col du Chardonnet. At half-past six, on the morning of the 6th, we + found ourselves accordingly on the top of that pass. The party + consisted of our friend Moore and his guide Almer, Reilly and his + guide François Couttet, myself and Michel Croz. So far the weather + had been calm, and the way easy; but immediately we arrived on the + summit of the pass, we got into a furious wind. Five minutes earlier + we were warm,—now we were frozen. Fine snow whirled up into the air + penetrated every crack in our harness, and assailed our skins as + painfully as if it had been red hot instead of freezing cold. The + teeth chattered involuntarily—talking was laborious; the breath froze + instantaneously; eating was disagreeable; sitting was impossible!</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We looked towards + our mountain. Its aspect was not encouraging. The ridge that led + upwards had a spiked arête, palisaded with miniature aiguilles, + banked up at their bases by heavy snow-beds, which led down, at + considerable angles, on one side towards the Glacier de Saleinoz, on + the other towards the Glacier du Chardonnet. Under any circumstances, + it would have been a stiff piece of work to clamber up that way. + Prudence and comfort counselled, <span class="tei tei-q">“Give it + up.”</span> Discretion overruled valour. Moore and Almer crossed the + Col du Chardonnet to go to Orsières, and we others returned towards + Chamounix.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">But when we got + some distance down, the evil spirit which prompts men to ascend + mountains tempted us to stop, and to look <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page190">[pg 190]</span><a name="Pg190" id="Pg190" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>back at the Aiguille d’Argentière. The sky was + cloudless; no wind could be felt, nor sign of it perceived; it was + only eight o’clock in the morning; and there, right before us, we saw + another branch of the glacier leading high up into the mountain—far + above the Col du Chardonnet—and a little couloir rising from its head + almost to the top of the peak. This was clearly the right route to + take. We turned back, and went at it.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The glacier was + steep, and the snow gully rising out of it was steeper. Seven hundred + steps were cut. Then the couloir became <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">too</span></span> + steep. We took to the rocks on its left, and at last gained the + ridge, at a point about 1500 feet above the Col du Chardonnet. We + faced about to the right, and went along the ridge; keeping on some + snow a little below its crest, on the Saleinoz side. Then we got the + wind again; yet no one thought of turning, for we were within 250 + feet of the summit.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The axes of Croz + and Couttet went to work once more, for the slope was about as steep + as snow-slope could be. Its surface was covered with a loose, + granular crust; dry and utterly incoherent; which slipped away in + streaks directly it was meddled with. The men had to cut through this + into the old beds underneath, and to pause incessantly to rake away + the powdery stuff, which poured down in hissing streams over the hard + substratum. Ugh! how cold it was! How the wind blew! Couttet’s hat + was torn from its fastenings, and went on a tour in Switzerland. The + flour-like snow, swept off the ridge above, was tossed spirally + upwards, eddying in <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">tourmentes</span></span>; then, dropt in lulls, + or caught by other gusts, was flung far and wide to feed the + Saleinoz.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“My feet are getting suspiciously numbed,”</span> cried + Reilly: <span class="tei tei-q">“how about frost-bites?”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“Kick hard, sir,”</span> shouted the men; + <span class="tei tei-q">“it’s the only way.”</span> <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Their</span></span> + fingers were kept alive by their work; but it was cold for the feet, + and they kicked and hewed simultaneously. I followed their example + too violently, and made a hole clean through my footing. A clatter + followed as if crockery had been thrown down a well.</p><span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page191">[pg 191]</span><a name="Pg191" id="Pg191" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I went down a step + or two, and discovered in a second that all were standing over a + cavern (not a crevasse, speaking properly) that was bridged over by a + thin vault of ice, from which great icicles hung in groves. Almost in + the same minute Reilly pushed one of his hands right through the + roof. The whole party might have tumbled through at any moment. + <span class="tei tei-q">“Go ahead, Croz, we are over a chasm!”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“We know it,”</span> he answered, + <span class="tei tei-q">“and we can’t find a firm place.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In the blandest + manner, my comrade inquired if to persevere would not be to do that + which is called <span class="tei tei-q">“tempting Providence.”</span> + My reply being in the affirmative, he further observed, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Suppose we go down?”</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Very willingly.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Ask the + guides.”</span> They had not the least objection; so we went down, + and slept that night at the Montanvert.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Off the ridge we + were out of the wind. In fact, a hundred feet down <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">to + windward</span></span>, on the slope fronting the Glacier du + Chardonnet, we were broiling hot; there was not a suspicion of a + breeze. Upon that side there was nothing to tell that a hurricane was + raging a hundred feet higher,—the cloudless sky looked tranquillity + itself: whilst to leeward the only sign of a disturbed atmosphere was + the friskiness of the snow upon the crests of the ridges.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We set out on the + 14th, with Croz, Payot, and Charlet, to finish off the work which had + been cut short so abruptly, and slept, as before, at the Chalets de + Lognan. On the 15th, about midday, we arrived upon the summit of the + aiguille, and found that we had actually been within one hundred feet + of it when we turned back upon the first attempt.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was a triumph + to Reilly. In this neighbourhood he had performed the feat (in 1863) + of joining together <span class="tei tei-q">“two mountains, each + about 13,000 feet high, standing on the map about a mile and a half + apart.”</span> Long before we made the ascent he had procured + evidence which could not be impugned, that the Pointe des Plines, a + fictitious summit which had figured on other maps as a distinct + mountain, could be no other than the Aiguille d’Argentière, + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page192">[pg 192]</span><a name="Pg192" + id="Pg192" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and he had accordingly + obliterated it from the preliminary draft of his map. We saw that it + was right to do so. The Pointe des Plines did not exist. We had + ocular demonstration of the accuracy of his previous + observations.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I do not know + which to admire most, the fidelity of Mr. Reilly’s map, or the + indefatigable industry by which the materials were accumulated from + which it was constructed. To men who are sound in limb it may be + amusing to arrive on a summit (as we did upon the top of Mont + Dolent), sitting astride a ridge too narrow to stand upon; or to do + battle with a ferocious wind (as we did on the top of the Aiguille de + Trélatête); or to feel half-frozen in midsummer (as we did on the + Aiguille d’Argentière). But there is extremely little amusement in + making sketches and notes under such conditions. Yet upon all these + expeditions, under the most adverse circumstances, and in the most + trying situations, Mr. Reilly’s brain and fingers were always at + work. Throughout all he was ever alike; the same genial, + equable-tempered companion, whether victorious or whether defeated; + always ready to sacrifice his own desires to suit our comfort and + convenience. By a happy union of audacity and prudence, combined with + untiring perseverance, he eventually completed his self-imposed + task—a work which would have been intolerable except as a labour of + love—and which, for a single individual, may well-nigh be termed + Herculean.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We separated upon + the level part of the Glacier d’Argentière, Reilly going with Payot + and Charlet <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">viâ</span></span> the chalets of Lognan and de + la Pendant, whilst I, with Croz, followed the right bank of the + glacier to the village of Argentière.<a id="noteref_143" name= + "noteref_143" href="#note_143"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">143</span></span></a> At 7 + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> we entered the humble inn, and + ten minutes afterwards heard the echoes of the cannon which were + fired upon the arrival of our comrades at Chamounix.<a id= + "noteref_144" name="noteref_144" href="#note_144"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">144</span></span></a></p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page193">[pg 193]</span><a name="Pg193" + id="Pg193" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc27" id= + "toc27"></a> <a name="pdf28" id="pdf28"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER XI.</span></h1> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE MOMING + PASS—ZINAL TO ZERMATT.</span></h1> + + <div class="tei tei-epigraph" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 9.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-lg" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-left: 1.80em; margin-top: 0.90em"> + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">A daring + leader is a dangerous thing.</span><span style= + "font-size: 90%">”</span></span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: right"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Euripides.</span></span> + </div> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On July 10, Croz + and I went to Sierre, in the Valais, <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">viâ</span></span> the + Col de Balme, the Col de la Forclaz, and Martigny. The Swiss side of + the Forclaz is not creditable to Switzerland. The path from Martigny + to the summit has undergone successive improvements in these latter + years; but mendicants permanently disfigure it.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We passed many + tired pedestrians toiling up this oven, persecuted by trains of + parasitic children. These children swarm there like maggots in a + rotten cheese. They carry baskets of fruit with which to plague the + weary tourist. They flit around him like flies; they thrust the fruit + in his face; they pester him with their pertinacity. Beware of + them!—taste, touch not their fruit. In the eyes of these children, + each peach, each grape, is worth a prince’s ransom. It is to no + purpose to be angry; it is like flapping wasps—they only buzz the + more. Whatever you do, or whatever you say, the end will be the same. + <span class="tei tei-q">“Give me something,”</span> is the alpha and + omega of all their addresses. They learn the phrase, it is said, + before they are taught the alphabet. It is in all their mouths. From + the tiny toddler up to the maiden of sixteen, there is nothing heard + but one universal chorus of—<span class="tei tei-q">“Give me + something; will you have the goodness to give me + something?”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">From Sierre we + went up the Val d’Anniviers to Zinal, to join our former companions, + Moore and Almer. Moore was ambitious to discover a shorter way from + Zinal to Zermatt than the two <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page194">[pg 194]</span><a name="Pg194" id="Pg194" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>passes which were known.<a id="noteref_145" + name="noteref_145" href="#note_145"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">145</span></span></a> He had + shown to me, upon Dufour’s map, that a direct line, connecting the + two places, passed exactly over the depression between the + Zinal-Rothhorn and the Schallhorn. He was confident that a passage + could be effected over this depression, and was sanguine that it + would (in consequence of its directness) prove to be a quicker route + than the circuitous ones over the Triftjoch and the Col Durand.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">He was awaiting + us, and we immediately proceeded up the valley, and across the foot + of the Zinal glacier to the Arpitetta Alp, where a chalet was + supposed to exist in which we might pass the night. We found it at + length,<a id="noteref_146" name="noteref_146" href= + "#note_146"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">146</span></span></a> but it + was not equal to our expectations. It was not one of those fine + timbered chalets, with huge overhanging eaves, covered with pious + sentences carved in unintelligible characters. It was a hovel, + growing, as it were, out of the hill-side; roofed with rough slabs of + slaty stone; without a door or window; surrounded by quagmires of + ordure, and dirt of every description.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A foul native + invited us to enter. The interior was dark; and, when our eyes became + accustomed to the gloom, we saw that our palace was in plan about 15 + by 20 feet; on one side it was scarcely five feet high, and on the + other was nearly seven. On this side there was a raised platform, + about six feet wide, littered with dirty straw and still dirtier + sheepskins. This was the bedroom. The remainder of the width of the + apartment was the parlour. The rest was the factory. Cheese was the + article which was being fabricated, and the foul native was engaged + in its manufacture. He was garnished behind with a regular cowherd’s + one-legged stool, which gave him a queer, uncanny look when it was + elevated in the air as he bent over into his tub; for the making of + his cheese required him to blow into a tub for ten minutes at a + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page195">[pg 195]</span><a name="Pg195" + id="Pg195" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>time. He then squatted on his + stool to gain breath, and took a few whiffs at a short pipe; after + which he blew away more vigorously than before. We were told that + this procedure was necessary. It appeared to us to be nasty. It + accounts, perhaps, for the flavour possessed by certain Swiss + cheeses.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Big, black, and + leaden-coloured clouds rolled up from Zinal, and met in combat on the + Moming glacier with others which descended from the Rothhorn. Down + came the rain in torrents, and crash went the thunder. The herd-boys + hurried under shelter, for the frightened cattle needed no driving, + and tore spontaneously down the Alp as if running a steeple-chase. + Men, cows, pigs, sheep, and goats forgot their mutual animosities, + and rushed to the only refuge on the mountain. The spell was broken + which had bound the elements for some weeks past, and the + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">cirque</span></span> from the Weisshorn to Lo + Besso was the theatre in which they spent their fury.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A sullen morning + succeeded an angry night. We were undecided in our council whether to + advance or to return down the valley. Good seemed likely to overpower + bad; so, at 5.40, we left the chalet <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">en route</span></span> + for our pass [amidst the most encouraging assurances from all the + people on the Alp that we need not distress ourselves about the + weather, as it was not possible to get to the point at which we were + aiming].<a id="noteref_147" name="noteref_147" href= + "#note_147"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">147</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Our course led us + at first over ordinary mountain slopes, and then over a flat expanse + of glacier. Before this was quitted, it was needful to determine the + exact line which was to be taken. We were divided betwixt two + opinions. I advocated that a course should be steered due south, and + that the upper plateau of the Moming glacier should be attained by + making a great detour to our right. This was negatived without a + division. Almer declared in favour of making for some rocks to the + south-west of the Schallhorn, and attaining the upper plateau of the + glacier by mounting them. Croz advised a middle course, up some very + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page196">[pg 196]</span><a name="Pg196" + id="Pg196" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>steep and broken glacier. + Croz’s route seemed likely to turn out to be impracticable, because + much step-cutting would be required upon it. Almer’s rocks did not + look good; they were, possibly, unassailable. I thought both routes + were bad, and declined to vote for either of them. Moore hesitated, + Almer gave way, and Croz’s route was adopted.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">He did not go very + far, however, before he found that he had undertaken too much, and + after [glancing occasionally round at us, to see what we thought + about it, suggested that it might, after all, be wiser to take to the + rocks of the Schallhorn]. That is to say, he suggested the + abandonment of his own and the adoption of Almer’s route. No one + opposed the change of plan, and, in the absence of instructions to + the contrary, he proceeded to cut steps across an ice-slope towards + the rocks.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Let the reader now + cast his eye upon the <a href="#map2" class="tei tei-ref">map of the + Valley of Zermatt</a>, and he will see that when we quitted the + slopes of the Arpitetta Alp, we took a south-easterly course over the + Moming glacier. We halted to settle the plan of attack shortly after + we got upon the ice. The rocks of the Schallhorn, whose ascent Almer + recommended, were then to our south-east. Croz’s proposed route was + to the south-west of the rocks, and led up the southern side of a + very steep and broken glacier.<a id="noteref_148" name="noteref_148" + href="#note_148"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">148</span></span></a> The + part he intended to traverse was, in a sense, undoubtedly + practicable. He gave it up because it would have involved too much + step-cutting. But the part of this glacier which intervened between + his route and Almer’s rocks was, in the most complete sense of the + word, impracticable. It passed over a continuation of the rocks, and + was broken in half by them. The upper portion was separated from the + lower portion by a long slope of ice that had been built up from the + débris of the glacier which had fallen from above. The foot of this + slope was surrounded by immense quantities of the larger avalanche + blocks. These we cautiously skirted, and when Croz halted they had + been left far below, and we were half-way up <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page197">[pg 197]</span><a name="Pg197" id="Pg197" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>the side of the great slope which led to the + base of the ice-wall above.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Across this + ice-slope Croz now proceeded to cut. It was executing a flank + movement in the face of an enemy by whom we might be attacked at any + moment. The peril was obvious. It was a monstrous folly. It was + foolhardiness. A retreat should have been sounded.<a id="noteref_149" + name="noteref_149" href="#note_149"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">149</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“I am not ashamed to confess,”</span> wrote Moore in his + Journal, <span class="tei tei-q">“that during the whole time we were + crossing this slope my heart was in my mouth, and I never felt + relieved from such a load of care as when, after, I suppose, a + passage of about twenty minutes, we got on to the rocks and were in + safety.... I have never heard a positive oath come from Almer’s + mouth, but the language in which he kept up a running commentary, + more to himself than to me, as we went along, was stronger than I + should have given him credit for using. His prominent feeling seemed + to be one of <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">indignation</span></span> that we should be in + such a position, and self-reproach at being a party to the + proceeding; while the emphatic way in which, at intervals, he + exclaimed, <span class="tei tei-q">‘Quick; be quick,’</span> + sufficiently betokened his alarm.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was not + necessary to admonish Croz to be quick. He was fully as alive to the + risk as any of the others. He told me afterwards, that this place was + the most dangerous he had ever crossed, and that no consideration + whatever would tempt him to cross it again. Manfully did he exert + himself to escape from the impending destruction. His head, bent down + to his work, never turned to the right or to the left. One, two, + three, went his axe, and then he stepped on to the spot where he had + been cutting. How painfully insecure should we have considered those + steps at any other time! But now, we thought only of the rocks in + front, and of the hideous <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">séracs</span></span>, lurching over above us, + apparently in the act of falling.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page198">[pg 198]</span><a name="Pg198" id="Pg198" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We got to the + rocks in safety, and if they had been doubly as difficult as they + were, we should still have been well content. We sat down and + refreshed the inner man; keeping our eyes on the towering pinnacles + of ice under which we had passed; but which, now, were almost beneath + us. Without a preliminary warning sound, one of the largest—as high + as the Monument at London Bridge—fell upon the slope below. The + stately mass heeled over as if upon a hinge (holding together until + it bent 30 degrees forwards), then it crushed out its base, and, rent + into a thousand fragments, plunged vertically down upon the slope + that we had crossed! Every atom of our track, that was in its course, + was obliterated; all the new snow was swept away, and a broad sheet + of smooth, glassy ice, showed the resistless force with which it had + fallen.</p><a name="fig57" id="fig57" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus235.png" alt= + "Illustration: Ice-avalanche on the Moming Pass" title= + "ICE-AVALANCHE ON THE MOMING PASS." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + ICE-AVALANCHE ON THE MOMING PASS. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was inexcusable + to follow such a perilous path, but it is easy <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page199">[pg 199]</span><a name="Pg199" id="Pg199" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>to understand why it was taken. To have + retreated from the place where Croz suggested a change of plan, to + have descended below the reach of danger, and to have mounted again + by the route which Almer suggested, would have been equivalent to + abandoning the excursion; for no one would have passed another night + in the chalet on the Arpitetta Alp. <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Many,”</span> says Thucydides, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“though seeing well the perils ahead, are forced along by + fear of dishonour—as the world calls it—so that, vanquished by a mere + word, they fall into irremediable calamities.”</span> Such was nearly + the case here. No one could say a word in justification of the course + which was adopted; all were alive to the danger that was being + encountered; yet a grave risk was deliberately—although + unwillingly—incurred, in preference to admitting, by withdrawal from + an untenable position, that an error of judgment had been + committed.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">After a laborious + trudge over many species of snow, and through many varieties of + vapour—from the quality of a Scotch mist to that of a London fog—we + at length stood on the depression between the Rothhorn and the + Schallhorn.<a id="noteref_150" name="noteref_150" href= + "#note_150"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">150</span></span></a> A steep + wall of snow was upon the Zinal side of the summit; but what the + descent was like on the other side we could not tell, for a billow of + snow tossed over its crest by the western winds, suspended o’er + Zermatt with motion arrested, resembling an ocean-wave frozen in the + act of breaking, cut off the view.<a id="noteref_151" name= + "noteref_151" href="#note_151"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">151</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Croz—held hard in + by the others, who kept down the Zinal side—opened his shoulders, + flogged down the foam, and cut away <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page200">[pg 200]</span><a name="Pg200" id="Pg200" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>the cornice to its junction with the summit; + then boldly leaped down, and called on us to follow him.</p><a name= + "fig58" id="fig58" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus237.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: Summit of the Moming Pass in 1864" title= + "SUMMIT OF THE MOMING PASS IN 1864." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + SUMMIT OF THE MOMING PASS IN 1864. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was well for us + now that we had such a man as leader. An inferior or less daring + guide would have hesitated to enter upon the <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page201">[pg 201]</span><a name="Pg201" id="Pg201" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>descent in a dense mist; and Croz himself would + have done right to pause had he been less magnificent in <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">physique</span></span>. + He acted, rather than said, <span class="tei tei-q">“Where snow lies + fast, there man can go; where ice exists, a way may be cut; it is a + question of power; I have the power,—all you have to do is to follow + me.”</span> Truly, he did not spare himself, and could he have + performed the feats upon the boards of a theatre that he did upon + this occasion, he would have brought down the house with thunders of + applause. Here is what Moore wrote in <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">his</span></span> + Journal.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">[The descent bore + a strong resemblance to the Col de Pilatte, but was very much steeper + and altogether more difficult, which is saying a good deal. Croz was + in his element, and selected his way with marvellous sagacity, while + Almer had an equally honourable and, perhaps, more responsible post + in the rear, which he kept with his usual steadiness.... One + particular passage has impressed itself on my mind as one of the most + nervous I have ever made. We had to pass along a crest of ice, a mere + knife-edge,—on our left a broad crevasse, whose bottom was lost in + blue haze, and on our right, at an angle of 70°, or more, a slope + falling to a similar gulf below. Croz, as he went along the edge, + chipped small notches in the ice, in which we placed our feet, with + the toes well turned out, doing all we knew to preserve our balance. + While stepping from one of these precarious footholds to another, I + staggered for a moment. I had not really lost my footing; but the + agonised tone in which Almer, who was behind me, on seeing me waver, + exclaimed, <span class="tei tei-q">“Slip not, sir!”</span> gave us an + even livelier impression than we already had of the insecurity of the + position.... One huge chasm, whose upper edge was far above the lower + one, could neither be leaped nor turned, and threatened to prove an + insuperable barrier. But Croz showed himself equal to the emergency. + Held up by the rest of the party, he cut a series of holes for the + hands and feet, down and along the almost perpendicular wall of ice + forming the upper side of the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">schrund</span></span>. Down this slippery + staircase we crept, with our faces to the wall, until a <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page202">[pg 202]</span><a name="Pg202" id="Pg202" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>point was reached where the width of the + chasm was not too great for us to drop across. Before we had done, we + got quite accustomed to taking flying leaps over the <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">schrunds</span></span>.... To make a long story + short; after a most desperate and exciting struggle, and as bad a + piece of ice-work as it is possible to imagine, we emerged on to the + upper plateau of the Hohlicht glacier.]</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The glimpses which + had been caught of the lower part of the Hohlicht glacier were + discouraging, so it was now determined to cross over the ridge + between it and the Rothhorn glacier. This was not done without great + trouble. Again we rose to a height exceeding 12,000 feet. Eventually + we took to the track of the despised Triftjoch, and descended by the + well-known, but rough, path which leads to that pass; arriving at the + Monte Rosa hotel at Zermatt at 7.20 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> We + occupied nearly twelve hours of actual walking in coming from the + chalet on the Arpitetta Alp (which was 2½ hours above Zinal), and we + consequently found that the Moming pass was not the shortest route + from Zinal to Zermatt, although it was the most direct.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Two dozen + guides—good, bad, and indifferent; French, Swiss, and Italian—can + commonly be seen sitting on the wall on the front of the Monte Rosa + hotel: waiting on their employers, and looking for employers; + watching new arrivals, and speculating on the number of francs which + may be extracted from their pockets. The <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Messieurs</span></span>—sometimes strangely and + wonderfully dressed—stand about in groups, or lean back in chairs, or + lounge on the benches which are placed by the door. They wear + extraordinary boots, and still more remarkable head-dresses. Their + peeled, blistered, and swollen faces are worth studying. Some, by the + exercise of watchfulness and unremitting care, have been fortunate + enough to acquire a fine raw sienna complexion. But most of them have + not been so happy. They have been scorched on rocks, and roasted on + glaciers. Their cheeks—first puffed, then cracked—have exuded a + turpentine-like matter, which has coursed down their faces, and + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page203">[pg 203]</span><a name="Pg203" + id="Pg203" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>has dried in patches like the + resin on the trunks of pines. They have removed it, and at the same + time have pulled off large flakes of their skin. They have gone from + bad to worse—their case has become hopeless—knives and scissors have + been called into play; tenderly, and daintily, they have endeavoured + to reduce their cheeks to one, uniform hue. It is not to be done. But + they have gone on, fascinated, and at last have brought their unhappy + countenances to a state of helpless and complete ruin. Their lips are + cracked; their cheeks are swollen; their eyes are blood-shot; their + noses are peeled and indescribable.</p><a name="plate09" id="plate09" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus240.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: The club-room of Zermatt, in 1864" title= + "THE CLUB-ROOM OF ZERMATT, IN 1864." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE CLUB-ROOM OF ZERMATT, IN 1864. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Such are the + pleasures of the mountaineer! Scornfully and derisively the last + comer compares the sight with his own flaccid face and dainty hands; + unconscious that he too, perhaps, will be numbered with those whom he + now ridicules.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">There is a + frankness of manner about these strangely-apparelled and queer-faced + men, which does not remind one of drawing-room, or city life; and it + is good to see—in this club-room of Zermatt—those cold bodies, our + too-frigid countrymen, <a name="corr203" id="corr203" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr">regale</span> + together when brought into contact; and it is pleasant to witness the + hearty welcome given to the new-comers by the host and his excellent + wife.<a id="noteref_152" name="noteref_152" href= + "#note_152"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">152</span></span></a></p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I left this + agreeable society to seek letters at the post. They yielded + disastrous intelligence. My holiday was brought to an abrupt + termination, and I awaited the arrival of Reilly (who was convoying + the stores for the attack on the Matterhorn) only to inform him that + our arrangements were upset; then travelled home, day and night, as + fast as express trains would carry me.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page204">[pg 204]</span><a name="Pg204" + id="Pg204" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc29" id= + "toc29"></a> <a name="pdf30" id="pdf30"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER XII.</span></h1> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE GRAND + CORNIER.</span></h1> + + <div class="tei tei-epigraph" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 9.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-lg" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-left: 1.80em; margin-top: 0.90em"> + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Ye crags + and peaks, I’m with you once again!</span></span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span style= + "font-size: 90%">. . . Methinks + I hear</span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span style="font-size: 90%">A spirit in your echoes answers + me,</span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span style="font-size: 90%">And bid your tenant welcome to his + home</span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">Again!</span><span style= + "font-size: 90%">”</span></span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: right"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">S. + Knowles.</span></span> + </div> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Our career in 1864 + had been one of unbroken success, but the great ascent upon which I + had set my heart was not attempted, and, until it was accomplished, I + was unsatisfied. Other things, too, influenced me to visit the Alps + once more. I wished to travel elsewhere, in places where the + responsibility of direction would rest with myself alone. It was well + to know how far my judgment in the choice of routes could be relied + upon.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The journey of + 1865 was chiefly undertaken, then, to find out to what extent I was + capable to select paths over mountainous country. The programme which + was drawn up for this journey was rather ambitious, since it included + almost all of the great peaks which had not then been ascended; but + it was neither lightly undertaken nor hastily executed. All pains + were taken to secure success. Information was sought from those who + could give it, and the defeats of others were studied, that their + errors might be avoided. The results which followed came not so much, + perhaps, from luck, as from forethought and careful calculation.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">For success does + not, as a rule, come by chance, and when one fails there is a reason + for it. But when any notable, or so-called brilliant thing is done, + we are too apt to look upon the success <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page205">[pg 205]</span><a name="Pg205" id="Pg205" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>alone, without considering how it was + accomplished. Whilst, when men fail, we inquire why they have not + succeeded. So failures are oftentimes more instructive than + successes, and the disappointments of some become profitable to + others.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Up to a certain + point, the programme was completely and happily carried out. Nothing + but success attended our efforts so long as the excursions were + executed as they had been planned. Most of them were made upon the + very days which had been fixed for them months beforehand; and all + were accomplished, comparatively speaking, so easily, that their + descriptions must be, in the absence of difficulty and danger, less + interesting to the general reader than they would have been if our + course had been marked by blunders and want of judgment. Before + proceeding to speak of these excursions, it will not be entirely + useless to explain the reasons which influenced the selection of the + routes which were adopted upon them.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In the course of + the past five seasons my early practices were revolutionised. My + antipathy to snow was overcome, and my predilection for rocks was + modified. Like all those who are not mountaineers born, I was, at the + first, extremely nervous upon steep snow. The snow seemed bound to + slip, and all those who were upon it to go along with it. Snow of a + certain quality is undoubtedly liable to slip when it is at a certain + inclination.<a id="noteref_153" name="noteref_153" href= + "#note_153"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">153</span></span></a> The + exact states which are dangerous, or safe, it is not possible to + describe in writing. That is only learnt by experience, and + confidence upon snow is not really felt until one has gained + experience. Confidence gradually came to me, and as it came so did my + partiality for rocks diminish. For it was evident, to use a common + expression, that it paid better to travel upon snow than upon rocks. + This applies to snow-beds pure and simple, or to snow which is lying + over glacier; and in the selection of routes it has, latterly, always + been my practice to look for the places where snow slopes, or + snow-covered glaciers, reach highest into mountains.<a id= + "noteref_154" name="noteref_154" href="#note_154"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">154</span></span></a></p><span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page206">[pg 206]</span><a name="Pg206" id="Pg206" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is + comparatively seldom, however, that an ascent of a great mountain can + be executed exclusively upon snow and glacier. Ridges peep through + which have to be surmounted. In my earlier scramblings I usually took + to, or was taken upon, the summits (or arêtes) of the ridges, and a + good many mountaineers habitually take to them on principle, as the + natural and proper way. According to my experience, it is seldom well + to do so when any other course is open. As I have already said, and + presently shall repeat more particularly, the crests of all the main + ridges of the great peaks of the Alps are shattered and cleft by + frost; and it not unfrequently happens that a notch in a ridge, which + appears perfectly insignificant from a distance, is found to be an + insuperable barrier to farther progress; and a great detour, or a + long descent, has to be made to avoid the obstacle. When committed to + an arête one is tied, almost always, to a particular course, from + which it is difficult to deviate. Much loss of time must result if + any serious obstruction occurs; and defeat often follows a temporary + check.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">But it rarely + happens that a great alpine peak is seen that is cut off abruptly, in + all directions, from the snows and glaciers which surround it. In its + gullies snow will cling, although its faces may be too steep for the + formation of permanent snow-beds. The merits of these snow-gullies + (or <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">couloirs</span></span>) have been already + pointed out,<a id="noteref_155" name="noteref_155" href= + "#note_155"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">155</span></span></a> and it + is hardly necessary to observe, after that which was just now said + about snow, that ascents of snow-gullies (with proper precautions) + are very much to be preferred to ascents of rocky arêtes.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">By following the + glaciers, the snow-slopes above, and the couloirs rising from them, + it is usually possible to get very close to the summits of the great + peaks in the Alps. The final climb will, perhaps, necessarily be by + an arête. The less of it the better.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It occasionally + occurs that considerable mountain slopes, or faces, are destitute of + snow-gullies. In that case it will, very likely, be best to adhere to + the faces (or to the gullies or minor ridges upon them) rather than + to take to the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">great</span></span> ridges. Upon a <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page207">[pg 207]</span><a name="Pg207" id="Pg207" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>face one can move to the right or to the + left with more facility than upon the crest of a ridge; and when a + difficulty is arrived at, it is, consequently, less troublesome to + circumvent.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In selecting the + routes which were taken in 1865, I looked, first, for places where + glaciers and snow extended highest up into the mountains which were + to be ascended, or the ridges which were to be crossed. Next, for + gullies filled with snow leading still higher; and finally, from the + heads of the gullies we completed the ascents, whenever it was + practicable, by faces instead of by arêtes. The ascent of the Grand + Cornier (13,022), of the Dent Blanche (14,318), Grandes Jorasses + (13,700), Aiguille Verte (13,540), Ruinette (12,727), and the + Matterhorn (14,780), were all accomplished in this way; besides the + other excursions which will be referred to by and by. The route + selected, before the start was made, was in every case strictly + followed out.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We inspected all + of these mountains from neighbouring heights before entering upon + their ascents. I explained to the guides the routes I proposed to be + taken, and (when the courses were at all complicated) sketched them + out on paper to prevent misunderstanding. In some few cases they + suggested variations, and in every case the route was well discussed. + The <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">execution</span></span> of the work was done by + the guides, and I seldom interfered with, or attempted to assist in + it.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The 13th of June + 1865 I spent in the valley of Lauterbrunnen with the Rev. W. H. + Hawker and the guides Christian and Ulrich Lauener; and on the 14th + crossed the Petersgrat with Christian Almer and Johann Tännler to + Turtman (Tourtemagne) in the Valais. Tännler was then paid off, as + Michel Croz and Franz Biener were awaiting me.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was not + possible to find two leading guides who worked together more + harmoniously than Croz and Almer. Biener’s part was subordinate to + theirs, and he was added as a convenience rather than as a necessity. + Croz spoke French alone, Almer little else than German. Biener spoke + both languages, and was useful on <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page208">[pg 208]</span><a name="Pg208" id="Pg208" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>that account; but he seldom went to the front, + excepting during the early part of the day, when the work was easy, + and he acted throughout more as a porter than as a guide.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The importance of + having a reserve of power on mountain expeditions cannot be too + strongly insisted upon. We always had some in hand, and were never + pressed, or overworked, so long as we were together. Come what might, + we were ready for it. But by a series of chances, which I shall never + cease to regret, I was first obliged to part with Croz, and then to + dismiss the others;<a id="noteref_156" name="noteref_156" href= + "#note_156"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">156</span></span></a> and so, + deviating from the course that I had deliberately adopted, which was + successful in practice because it was sound in principle, became + fortuitously a member of an expedition that ended with the + catastrophe which brings this book, and brought my scrambles amongst + the Alps, to a close.<a id="noteref_157" name="noteref_157" href= + "#note_157"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">157</span></span></a></p><span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page209">[pg 209]</span><a name="Pg209" id="Pg209" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On June 15 we + went, from Turtman to Z’meiden, and thence over the Forcletta pass to + Zinal. We diverged from the summit of the pass up some neighbouring + heights to inspect the Grand Cornier, and I decided to have nothing + to do with its northern side. It seemed quite safe to pronounce it + inaccessible from that direction, although it was more than seven + miles away.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On the 16th we + left Zinal at 2.5 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span>, having been for a moment greatly + surprised by an entry in the hotel-book,<a id="noteref_158" name= + "noteref_158" href="#note_158"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">158</span></span></a> and + ascending by the Zinal glacier, and giving the base of our mountain a + wide berth in order that it might be better examined, passed + gradually right round to its south, before a way up it was + seen.<a id="noteref_159" name="noteref_159" href= + "#note_159"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">159</span></span></a> At 8.30 + we arrived upon the plateau of the glacier that descends towards the + east, between the Grand Cornier and the Dent Blanche, and from this + place a route was readily traced. We steered to the north (as shown + upon the <a href="#map2" class="tei tei-ref">map</a>) over the + glacier, towards the ridge that descends to the east; gained it by + mounting snow-slopes, and followed it to the summit, which was + arrived at before half-past twelve. From first to last the route was + almost entirely over snow.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The ridges leading + to the north and to the south from the summit of the Grand Cornier, + exhibited in a most striking manner the extraordinary effects that + may be produced by violent alternations of heat and cold. The + southern one was hacked and split into the wildest forms; and the + northern one was not less cleft and impracticable, and offered the + droll piece of rock-carving which is represented upon <a href= + "#fig61" class="tei tei-ref">page 211</a>. Some small blocks actually + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page210">[pg 210]</span><a name="Pg210" + id="Pg210" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>tottered and fell before our + eyes, and, starting others in their downward course, grew into a + perfect avalanche, which descended with a solemn roar on to the + glaciers beneath.</p><a name="fig60" id="fig60" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus249.png" alt= + "Illustration: Part of the Southern ridge of the Grand Cornier" + title="PART OF THE SOUTHERN RIDGE OF THE GRAND CORNIER." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + PART OF THE SOUTHERN RIDGE OF THE GRAND CORNIER. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is natural that + the great ridges should present the wildest forms—not on account of + their dimensions, but by reason of their positions. They are exposed + to the fiercest heat of the sun, and are seldom in shadow as long as + it is above the horizon. They are entirely unprotected, and are + attacked by the strongest blasts and by the most intense cold. The + most durable rocks are not proof against such assaults. These grand, + apparently solid—eternal—mountains, seeming so firm, so immutable, + are yet ever changing and crumbling into dust. These shattered ridges + are evidence of their sufferings. Let me repeat that every principal + ridge of every great peak in the Alps amongst those I have seen has + been <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page211">[pg 211]</span><a name= + "Pg211" id="Pg211" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>shattered in this way; + and that every summit, amongst the rock-summits upon which I have + stood, has been nothing but a piled-up heap of fragments.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The minor ridges + do not usually present such extraordinary forms as the principal + ones. They are less exposed, and they are less broken up; and it is + reasonable to assume that their annual degradation is less than that + of the summit-ridges.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The wear and tear + does not cease even in winter, for these great ridges are never + completely covered up by snow,<a id="noteref_160" name="noteref_160" + href="#note_160"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">160</span></span></a> and the + sun has still power. The destruction is incessant, and increases as + time goes on; for the greater the surfaces which are exposed to the + practically inexhaustible powers of sun and frost, the greater ruin + will be effected.</p><a name="fig61" id="fig61" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus250.png" alt= + "Illustration: Part of the Northern ridge of the Grand Cornier" + title="PART OF THE NORTHERN RIDGE OF THE GRAND CORNIER." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + PART OF THE NORTHERN RIDGE OF THE GRAND CORNIER. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The rock-falls + which are continually occurring upon all rock mountains (such as are + referred to upon pp. <a href="#Pg029" class="tei tei-ref">29</a>, + <a href="#Pg055" class="tei tei-ref">55</a>) are, of course, + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page212">[pg 212]</span><a name="Pg212" + id="Pg212" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>caused by these powers. No one + doubts it; but one never believes it so thoroughly as when the + quarries are seen from which their materials have been hewn; and when + the germs, so to speak, of these avalanches have been seen actually + starting from above.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">These falls of + rock take place from two causes. First, from the heat of the sun + detaching small stones or rocks which have been arrested on ledges or + slopes and bound together by snow or ice. I have seen such released + many times when the sun has risen high; fall gently at first, gather + strength, grow in volume, and at last rush down with a cloud trailing + behind, like the dust after an express train. Secondly, from the + freezing of the water which trickles, during the day, into the + clefts, fissures, and crannies. This agency is naturally most active + in the night, and then, or during very cold weather, the greatest + falls take place.<a id="noteref_161" name="noteref_161" href= + "#note_161"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">161</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When one has + continually seen and heard these falls, it is easily understood why + the glaciers are laden with moraines. The wonder is, not that they + are sometimes so great, but that they are not always greater. + Irrespective of lithological considerations, one knows that this + débris cannot have been excavated <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">by</span></span> the + glaciers. The moraines are <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">borne</span></span> by glaciers, but they are + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">born</span></span> from the ridges. They are + generated by the sun, and delivered by the frost. <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Fire,”</span> it is well said in Plutarch’s life of + Camillus, <span class="tei tei-q">“is the most active thing in + nature, and all generation is motion, or at least, with motion; all + other parts of matter without warmth lie sluggish and dead, and crave + the influence of heat as their life, and when that comes upon them, + they immediately acquire some active or passive + qualities.”</span><a id="noteref_162" name="noteref_162" href= + "#note_162"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">162</span></span></a></p><span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page213">[pg 213]</span><a name="Pg213" id="Pg213" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">If the Alps were + granted a perfectly invariable temperature, if they were no longer + subjected, alternately, to freezing blasts and to scorching heat, + they might more correctly be termed <span class= + "tei tei-q">“eternal.”</span> They might still continue to decay, but + their abasement would be much less rapid.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When rocks are + covered up by a sheet of glacier they do enjoy an almost invariable + temperature. The extremes of summer and winter are unknown to rocks + which are so covered up,—a range of a very few degrees is the most + that is possible underneath the ice.<a id="noteref_163" name= + "noteref_163" href="#note_163"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">163</span></span></a> There + is, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">then</span></span>, little or no disintegration + from unequal expansion and contraction. Frost, <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">then</span></span>, + does not penetrate into the heart of the rock, and cleave off vast + masses. The rocks, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">then</span></span>, sustain grinding instead of + cleaving. Atoms, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">then</span></span>, come away instead of masses. + Fissures and overhanging surfaces are bridged, for the ice cannot get + at them; and after many centuries of grinding have been sustained, we + still find numberless angular surfaces (in the <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">lee-sides</span></span>) which were fashioned + before the ice began to work.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The points of + difference which are so evident between the operations of heat, cold, + and water, and those of glaciers upon rocks, are as follow. The + former take advantage of cracks, fissures, joints, and soft places; + the latter do not. The former can work <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">underneath</span></span> overhanging masses; the + latter cannot. The effects produced by the former continually + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">increase</span></span>, because they continually + expose fresh surfaces by forming new cracks, fissures, and holes. The + effects which the latter produce constantly <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">diminish</span></span>, + because the area of the surfaces operated upon becomes less and less, + as they become smoother and flatter.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">What can one + conclude, then, but that sun, frost, and water, <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page214">[pg 214]</span><a name="Pg214" id="Pg214" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>have had infinitely more to do than + glaciers with the fashioning of mountain-forms and valley-slopes? Who + can refuse to believe that powers which are at work everywhere, which + have been at work always, which are so incomparably active, capable, + and enduring, must have produced greater effects than a solitary + power which is always local in its influence, which has worked, + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">comparatively</span></span>, but for a short + time, which is always slow and feeble in its operations, and which + constantly diminishes in intensity?</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Yet there are some + who refuse to believe that sun, frost, and water have played an + important part in modelling the Alps, and hold it as an article of + their faith that the Alpine region <span class="tei tei-q">“owes its + present conformation mainly to the action of its ancient + glaciers”</span>!<a id="noteref_164" name="noteref_164" href= + "#note_164"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">164</span></span></a></p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">My reverie was + interrupted by Croz observing that it was time to be off. Less than + two hours sufficed to take us to the glacier plateau below (where we + had left our baggage); three quarters of an hour more placed us upon + the depression between the Grand Cornier and the Dent Blanche (Col du + Grand Cornier<a id="noteref_165" name="noteref_165" href= + "#note_165"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">165</span></span></a>), and + at 6 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> we arrived at Abricolla. Croz and + Biener hankered after milk, and descended to a village lower down the + valley; but Almer and I stayed where we were, and passed a chilly + night on some planks in a half-burnt chalet.<a id="noteref_166" name= + "noteref_166" href="#note_166"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">166</span></span></a></p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page215">[pg 215]</span><a name="Pg215" + id="Pg215" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc31" id= + "toc31"></a> <a name="pdf32" id="pdf32"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER XIII.</span></h1> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">THE ASCENT OF THE DENT + BLANCHE.</span></h1> + + <div class="tei tei-epigraph" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 9.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-lg" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-left: 1.80em; margin-top: 0.90em"> + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">God help + thee, Trav’ller, on thy journey far;</span></span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style= + "text-align: left; margin-left: 3.60em"> + <span style="font-size: 90%">The wind is bitter keen,—the snow + o’erlays</span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style= + "text-align: left; margin-left: 3.60em"> + <span style="font-size: 90%">The hidden pits, and dang’rous + hollow-ways,</span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span style="font-size: 90%">And darkness will involve thee.—No + kind star</span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">To-night will guide thee.</span><span style= + "font-size: 90%">”</span></span><span style= + "font-size: 90%">...</span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: right"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">H. Kirke + White.</span></span> + </div> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Croz and Biener + did not return until past 5 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> on June 17, and we then set out + at once for Zermatt, intending to cross the Col d’Hérens. But we did + not proceed far before the attractions of the Dent Blanche were felt + to be irresistible, and we turned aside up the steep lateral glacier + which descends along its south-western face.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Dent Blanche + is a mountain that is little known except to the climbing fraternity. + It was, and is, reputed to be one of the most difficult mountains in + the Alps. Many attempts were made to scale it before its ascent was + accomplished. Even Leslie Stephen himself, fleetest of foot of the + whole Alpine brotherhood, once upon a time returned discomfited from + it.</p><a name="fig62" id="fig62" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus254.png" alt= + "Illustration: Portrait of Leslie Stephen" title= + "LESLIE STEPHEN." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + LESLIE STEPHEN. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was not climbed + until 1862; but in that year Mr. T. S. Kennedy, with Mr. Wigram, and + the guides Jean B. Croz<a id="noteref_167" name="noteref_167" href= + "#note_167"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">167</span></span></a> and + Kronig, managed to conquer it. They had a hard fight though before + they gained <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page216">[pg + 216]</span><a name="Pg216" id="Pg216" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the + victory; a furious wind and driving snow, added to the natural + difficulties, nearly turned the scale against them.<a id= + "noteref_168" name="noteref_168" href="#note_168"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">168</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Mr. Kennedy + started from Abricolla between 2 and 3 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> on July + 18, 1862, and ascending the glacier that is mentioned in the opening + paragraph, went towards the point marked 3912 mètres upon the + <a href="#map2" class="tei tei-ref">map</a>;<a id="noteref_169" name= + "noteref_169" href="#note_169"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">169</span></span></a> then + turned to the left (that is, to the north), and completed the ascent + by the southern ridge—that which overhangs the western side of the + Schönbühl glacier.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Mr. Kennedy + described his expedition in a very interesting paper in the + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Alpine + Journal</span></span>. His account bore the impress of truth; yet + unbelievers said that it was impossible to have told (in weather such + as was experienced) whether the summit had actually been attained, + and sometimes roundly asserted that the mountain, as the saying is, + still remained virgin.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I did not share + these doubts, although they influenced me to make the ascent. I + thought it might be possible to find an easier route than that taken + by Mr. Kennedy, and that if we succeeded in discovering one we should + be able at once to refute his traducers, and to vaunt our superior + wisdom. Actuated by these elevated motives, I halted my little army + at the foot of the glacier, and inquired, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Which is best for us to do?—to ascend the Dent Blanche, + or to cross to Zermatt?”</span> They answered, with befitting + solemnity, <span class="tei tei-q">“We think Dent Blanche is + best.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">From the chalets + of Abricolla the south-west face of the Dent Blanche is regarded + almost exactly in profile. From thence it is seen that the angle of + the face scarcely exceeds thirty degrees, and after observing this I + concluded that the face would, in all probability, give an easier + path to the summit than the crest of the very jagged ridge which was + followed by Mr. Kennedy.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We zigzagged up + the glacier along the foot of the face, and looked for a way on to + it. We looked for some time in vain, for a mighty <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">bergschrund</span></span> effectually prevented + approach, and, like a fortress’ moat, protected the wall from + assault. We went up and <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page217">[pg + 217]</span><a name="Pg217" id="Pg217" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>up, + until, I suppose, we were not more than a thousand feet below the + point marked 3912 mètres; then a bridge was discovered, and we + dropped down on hands and knees to cross it.</p><a name="fig63" id= + "fig63" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus256.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: The bergschrund on the Dent Blanche in 1865" title= + "THE BERGSCHRUND ON THE DENT BLANCHE IN 1865" /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE BERGSCHRUND ON THE DENT BLANCHE IN 1865 + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A bergschrund, it + was said on <a href="#Pg182" class="tei tei-ref">p. 182</a>, is a + schrund, and something more than a schrund. A schrund is simply a big + crevasse. <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page218">[pg + 218]</span><a name="Pg218" id="Pg218" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>A + bergschrund is frequently, although not always, a big crevasse. The + term is applied to the last of the crevasses that one finds, in + ascending, before quitting the glacier, and taking to the rocks which + bound it. It is the mountains’ schrund. Sometimes it is <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">very</span></span> + large, but early in the season (that is to say in the month of June + or before) bergschrunds are usually snowed up, or well bridged over, + and do not give much trouble. Later in the year, say in August, they + are frequently very great hindrances, and occasionally are completely + impassable.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">They are lines of + rupture consequent upon unequal motion. The glaciers below move + quicker than the snow or ice which clings immediately to the + mountains; hence these fissures result. The slower motion of that + which is above can only be attributed to its having to sustain + greater friction; for the rule is that the upper portion is set at a + steeper angle than the lower. As that is the case, we should expect + that the upper portion would move <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">quicker</span></span> + than the lower, and it would do so, doubtless, but for the + retardation of the rocks over which, and through which, it + passes.<a id="noteref_170" name="noteref_170" href= + "#note_170"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">170</span></span></a></p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We crossed the + bergschrund of the Dent Blanche, I suppose, at a height of about + 12,000 feet above the level of the sea. Our work may be said to have + commenced at that point. The face, although not steep in its general + inclination, was so cut up by little ridges and cliffs, and so seamed + with incipient couloirs, that it had all the difficulty of a much + more precipitous slope. The difficulties were never great, but they + were numerous, and made a very respectable total when put together. + We passed the bergschrund soon after nine in the morning, and during + the next eleven hours halted only five-and-forty minutes. The whole + of the remainder of the time was occupied in ascending and descending + the 2400 feet which compose this south-western face; and inasmuch as + 1000 feet per hour (taking the mean of ascent and <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page219">[pg 219]</span><a name="Pg219" id="Pg219" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>descent) is an ordinary rate of + progression, it is tolerably certain that the Dent Blanche is a + mountain of exceptional difficulty.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The hindrances + opposed to us by the mountain itself were, however, as nothing + compared with the atmospheric obstructions. It is true there was + plenty of, <span class="tei tei-q">“Are you fast, Almer?”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“Yes.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Go + ahead, Biener.”</span> Biener, made secure, cried, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Come on, sir,”</span> and <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Monsieur</span></span> + endeavoured. <span class="tei tei-q">“No, no,”</span> said Almer, + <span class="tei tei-q">“not there,—<span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">here</span></span>,”</span>—pointing with his + bâton to the right place to clutch. Then ’twas Croz’s turn, and we + all drew in the rope as the great man followed. <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Forwards”</span> once more—and so on.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Five hundred feet + of this kind of work had been accomplished when we were saluted (not + entirely unexpectedly) by the first gust of a hurricane which was + raging above. The day was a lovely one for dwellers in the valleys, + but we had, long ago, noted some light, gossamer clouds, that were + hovering round our summit, being drawn out in a suspicious manner + into long, silky threads. Croz, indeed, prophesied before we had + crossed the schrund, that we should be beaten by the wind, and had + advised that we should return. But I had retorted, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“No, my good Croz, you said just now <span class= + "tei tei-q">‘Dent Blanche is best’</span>; we must go up the Dent + Blanche.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I have a very + lively and disagreeable recollection of this wind. Upon the outskirts + of the disturbed region it was only felt occasionally. It then seemed + to make rushes at one particular man, and when it had discomfited + him, it whisked itself away to some far-off spot, only to return, + presently, in greater force than before.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">My old enemy—the + Matterhorn—seen across the basin of the Z’Muttgletscher, looked + totally unassailable. <span class="tei tei-q">“Do you think,”</span> + the men asked, <span class="tei tei-q">“that you, or any one else, + will ever get up <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">that</span></span> mountain?”</span> And when, + undismayed by their ridicule, I stoutly answered, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Yes, but not upon that side,”</span> they burst into + derisive chuckles. I must confess that my hopes sank; for nothing can + look more completely inaccessible than the Matterhorn on its northern + and north-west sides.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page220">[pg + 220]</span><a name="Pg220" id="Pg220" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“Forwards”</span> once again. We overtopped the Dent + d’Hérens. <span class="tei tei-q">“Not a thousand feet more; in three + hours we shall be on the summit.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“You + mean <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">ten</span></span>,”</span> echoed Croz, so slow + had been the progress. But I was not far wrong in the estimate. At + 3.15 we struck the great ridge followed by Mr. Kennedy, close to the + top of the mountain. The wind and cold were terrible there. Progress + was oftentimes impossible, and we waited, crouching under the lee of + rocks, listening to <span class="tei tei-q">“the shrieking of the + mindless wind,”</span> while the blasts swept across, tearing off the + upper snow and blowing it away in streamers over the Schönbühl + glacier—<span class="tei tei-q">“nothing seen except an indescribable + writhing in the air, like the wind made visible.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Our goal was + concealed by mist, although it was only a few yards away, and Croz’s + prophecy, that we should stay all night upon the summit, seemed + likely to come true. The men rose with the occasion, although even + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">their</span></span> fingers had nearly lost + sensation. There were no murmurings, nor suggestions of return, and + they pressed on for the little white cone which they knew must be + near at hand. Stopped again; a big mass perched loosely on the ridge + barred the way; we could not crawl over, and scarcely dared creep + round it. The wine went round for the last time. The liquor was + half-frozen,—still we would more of it. It was all gone; the bottle + was left behind, and we pushed on, for there was a lull.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The end came + almost before it was expected. The clouds opened, and I saw that we + were all but upon the highest point, and that, between us and it, + about twenty yards off, there was a little artificial pile of stones. + Kennedy was a true man,—it was a cairn which he had erected. + <span class="tei tei-q">“What is that, Croz?”</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q">“<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Homme des pierres</span></span>,”</span> he + bawled. It was needless to proceed farther; I jerked the rope from + Biener, and motioned that we should go back. He did the same to + Almer, and we turned immediately. <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">They</span></span> did + not see the stones (they were cutting footsteps), and misinterpreted + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page221">[pg 221]</span><a name="Pg221" + id="Pg221" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the reason of the retreat. + Voices were inaudible, and explanations impossible.<a id= + "noteref_171" name="noteref_171" href="#note_171"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">171</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We commenced the + descent of the face. It was hideous work. The men looked like + impersonations of Winter, with their hair all frosted, and their + beards matted with ice. My hands were numbed—dead. I begged the + others to stop. <span class="tei tei-q">“<span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">We cannot afford to + stop; we must continue to move</span></span>,”</span> was their + reply. They were right; to stop was to be entirely frozen. So we went + down; gripping rocks varnished with ice, which pulled the skin from + the fingers. Gloves were useless; they became iced too, and the + bâtons slid through them as slippery as eels. The iron of the axes + stuck to the fingers—it felt red-hot; but it was useless to shrink, + the rocks and the axes had to be firmly grasped—no faltering would do + here.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We turned back at + 4.12 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span>, and at 8.15 crossed the + bergschrund again, not having halted for a minute upon the entire + descent. During the last two hours it was windless, but time was of + such vital importance that we pressed on incessantly, and did not + stop until we were fairly upon the glacier. Then we took stock of + what remained of the tips of our fingers. There was not much skin + left; they were perfectly raw, and for weeks afterwards I was + reminded of the ascent of the Dent Blanche by the twinges which I + felt when I pulled on my boots. The others escaped with some slight + frost-bites; and, altogether, we had reason to congratulate ourselves + that we got off so lightly. The men complimented me upon the descent, + and I could do the same honestly to them. If they had worked less + vigorously, or harmoniously, we should have been benighted upon the + face, where there was not a single spot upon which it was possible to + sit; and if that had happened, I do not think that one would have + survived to tell the tale.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We made the + descent of the glacier in a mist, and of the <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page222">[pg 222]</span><a name="Pg222" id="Pg222" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>moraine at its base, and of the slopes below, in + total darkness, and regained the chalets of Abricolla at 11.45 + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> We had been absent eighteen and a + half hours, and out of that time had been going not less than + seventeen. That night we slept the sleep of those who are thoroughly + tired.<a id="noteref_172" name="noteref_172" href= + "#note_172"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">172</span></span></a></p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div><a name="fig64" id="fig64" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus261.png" alt= + "Illustration: Portrait of T. S. Kennedy" title="T. S. KENNEDY." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + T. S. KENNEDY. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Two days + afterwards, when walking into Zermatt, whom should we meet but Mr. + Kennedy. <span class="tei tei-q">“Hullo!”</span> we said, + <span class="tei tei-q">“we have just seen your cairn on the top of + the Dent Blanche.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“No, you + haven’t,”</span> he answered, very positively. <span class= + "tei tei-q">“What do you mean?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Why, + that you cannot have seen my cairn, because I didn’t make + one!”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Well, but we saw <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">a</span></span> + cairn.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“No doubt; it was made by a + man who went up the mountain last year with Lauener and + Zurfluh,”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“O-o-h,”</span> we said, + rather disgusted at hearing news when we expected to communicate + some, <span class="tei tei-q">“O-o-h! good morning, Kennedy.”</span> + Before this happened, we managed to lose our way upon the Col + d’Hérens; but an account of that must be reserved for the next + chapter.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page223">[pg 223]</span><a name="Pg223" + id="Pg223" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc33" id= + "toc33"></a> <a name="pdf34" id="pdf34"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER XIV.</span></h1> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">LOST ON THE COL D’HÉRENS.—MY SEVENTH + ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN.</span></h1> + + <div class="tei tei-epigraph" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 9.00em"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 0.90em"><span class="tei tei-q" + style="text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Oh! ye + immortal gods, where in the world are we?</span><span style= + "font-size: 90%">”</span></span><br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Cicero.</span></span></p> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We should have + started for Zermatt about 7 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> on the 18th, had not Biener asked + to be allowed to go to mass at Evolène, a village about two and a + half hours from Abricolla. He received permission, on the condition + that he returned not later than mid-day, but he did not come back + until 2.30 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span>, and we thereby got into a pretty + little mess.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The pass which we + were about to traverse to Zermatt—the Col d’Hérens—is one of the few + glacier-passes in this district which have been known almost from + time immemorial. It is frequently crossed in the summer season, and + is a very easy route, notwithstanding that the summit of the pass is + 11,417 feet above the level of the sea.<a id="noteref_173" name= + "noteref_173" href="#note_173"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">173</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">From Abricolla to + the summit the way lies chiefly over the flat Glacier de Ferpècle. + The walk is of the most straightforward kind. The glacier rises in + gentle undulations; its crevasses are small and easily avoided; and + all you have to do, after once getting upon the ice, is to proceed + due south, in the most direct manner possible. If you do so, in two + hours you should be upon the summit of the pass.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We tied ourselves + in line, of course, when we entered upon the <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page224">[pg 224]</span><a name="Pg224" id="Pg224" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>glacier, and placed Biener to lead, as he had + frequently crossed the pass; supposing that his local knowledge might + save us some time upon the other side. We had proceeded, I believe, + about half-way up, when a little, thin cloud dropped down upon us + from above. It was so light and gauzy, that we did not for a moment + suppose it would become embarrassing, and hence I neglected to note + at the proper moment the course which we should steer,—that is to + say, to observe our precise situation, in regard to the summit of the + pass.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">For some little + time Biener progressed steadily, making a tolerably straight track; + but at length he wavered, and deviated sometimes to the right, and + sometimes to the left. Croz rushed forward directly he saw this, and + taking the poor young man by his shoulders gave him a good shaking, + told him that he was an imbecile, to untie himself at once, and to go + to the rear. Biener looked half-frightened, and obeyed without a + murmur. Croz led off briskly, and made a good straight track for a + few minutes. Then, it seemed to me, he began to move steadily round + to the left. I looked back, but the mist was now too thick to see our + traces, and so we continued to follow our leader. At last the others + (who were behind, and in a better position to judge) thought the same + as I did, and we pulled up Croz to deliver our opinion. He took our + criticism in good part, but when Biener opened his mouth that was too + much for him to stand, and he told the young man again, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">You</span></span> are imbecile; I bet you twenty + francs to one that <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">my</span></span> track is better than + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">yours</span></span>; twenty francs, now then, + imbecile!”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Almer went to the + front. He commenced by returning in the track for a hundred yards or + so, and then started off at a tangent from Croz’s curve. We kept this + course for half-an-hour, and then were certain that we were not on + the right route, because the snow became decidedly steep. We bore + away more and more to the right, to avoid this steep bank, but at + last I rebelled, as we had for some time been going almost + south-west, which was altogether the wrong direction. After a long + discussion we <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page225">[pg + 225]</span><a name="Pg225" id="Pg225" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>returned some distance in our track, and then + steered a little east of south, but we continually met steep + snow-slopes, and to avoid them went right or left as the case might + require.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We were greatly + puzzled, and could not in the least tell whether we were too near the + Dent Blanche or too close to the Tête Blanche. The mists had + thickened, and were now as dense as a moderate London fog. There were + no rocks or echoes to direct us, and the guidance of the compass + brought us invariably against these steep snow-banks. The men were + fairly beaten; they had all had a try, or more than one, and at last + gave it up as a bad job, and asked what was to be done. It was 7.30 + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> and only an hour of daylight was + left. We were beginning to feel used up, for we had wandered about at + tip-top speed for the last three hours and a half, so I said, + <span class="tei tei-q">“This is my advice; let us turn in our track, + and go back as hard as ever we can, not quitting the track for an + instant.”</span> They were well content, but just as we were starting + off, the clouds lifted a little, and we thought we saw the Col. It + was then to our right, and we went at it with a dash. Before we had + gone a hundred paces down came the mist again. We kept on + nevertheless for twenty minutes, and then, as darkness was + perceptibly coming on, and the snow was yet rising in front, we + turned back, and by running down the entire distance managed to get + clear of the Ferpècle glacier just as it became pitch dark. We + arrived at our cheerless chalet in due course, and went to bed + supperless, for our food was gone; all very sulky—not to say + savage—agreeing in nothing except in bullying Biener.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At 7 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> on the + 19th, we set out, for the third time, for the Col d’Hérens. It was a + fine day, and we gradually recovered our tempers as we saw the + follies which had been committed on the previous evening. Biener’s + wavering track was not so bad; but Croz had swerved from the right + route from the first, and had traced a complete semicircle, so that + when we stopped him we were facing Abricolla—whence we had started. + Almer had commenced with great discretion; but he kept on too long, + and crossed <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page226">[pg + 226]</span><a name="Pg226" id="Pg226" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the + proper route. When I stopped them (because we were going south-west), + we were a long way up the Tête Blanche! Our last attempt was in the + right direction; we were actually upon the summit of the pass, and in + another ten yards we should have commenced to go down hill! It is + needless to point out that if the compass had been looked to at the + proper moment—that is, immediately the mist came down—we should have + avoided all our troubles. It was little use afterwards, except to + tell us when we were going <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">wrong</span></span>. We arrived at Zermatt in + six and a half hours’ walking from Abricolla, and Seller’s hospitable + reception set us all right again.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On the 20th we + crossed the Théodule pass, and diverged from its summit up the + Théodulhorn (11,391) to examine a route which I suggested for the + ascent of the Matterhorn. Before continuing an account of our + proceedings, I must stop for a minute to explain why this new route + was proposed, in place of that up the south-western ridge.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The main peak of + the Matterhorn may be divided into three sections.<a id="noteref_174" + name="noteref_174" href="#note_174"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">174</span></span></a> The + first, facing the Z’Muttgletscher, looks completely unassailable; the + second, facing the east, seems inaccessibility itself; whilst the + third, facing Breil, does not look entirely hopeless. It was from + this last direction that all my previous attempts were made. It was + by the south-western ridge, it will be remembered, that not only I, + but Mr. Hawkins, Professor Tyndall, and the chasseurs of Val + Tournanche, essayed to climb the mountain. Why then abandon a route + which had been shown to be feasible up to a certain point?</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I gave it up for + four reasons. 1. On account of my growing disinclination for arêtes, + and preference for snow and rock-faces (see <a href="#Pg204" class= + "tei tei-ref">Chap. XII.</a>). 2. Because I was persuaded that + meteorological disturbances (by which we had been baffled several + times) might be expected to occur again and again<a id="noteref_175" + name="noteref_175" href="#note_175"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">175</span></span></a> (see + Chaps. IV. and VI.). <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page227">[pg + 227]</span><a name="Pg227" id="Pg227" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>3. + Because I found that the east face was a gross imposition—it looked + not far from perpendicular; while its angle was, in fact, scarcely + more than 40°. 4. Because I observed for myself that the strata of + the mountain dipped to the west-south-west. It is not necessary to + say anything more than has been already said upon the first two of + these four points, but upon the latter two a few words are + indispensable. Let us consider, first, why most persons receive such + an exaggerated impression of the steepness of the eastern + face.</p><a name="plate10" id="plate10" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus267.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: The Matterhorn from the Riffelberg" title= + "THE MATTERHORN FROM THE RIFFELBERG." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE MATTERHORN FROM THE RIFFELBERG. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When one looks at + the Matterhorn from Zermatt, the mountain is regarded (nearly) from + the north-east. The face that fronts the east is consequently neither + seen in profile nor in full front, but almost half-way between the + two; it looks, therefore, more steep than it really is. The majority + of those who visit Zermatt go up to the Riffelberg, or to the + Gornergrat, and from these places, the mountain naturally looks still + more precipitous, because its eastern face (which is almost all that + is seen of it) is viewed more directly in front. From the Riffel + hotel the slope seems to be set at an angle of 70°. If the tourist + continues to go southwards, and crosses the Théodule pass, he gets, + at one point, immediately in front of the eastern face, which then + seems to be absolutely perpendicular. Comparatively few persons + correct the erroneous impressions they receive in these quarters by + studying the face in profile, and most go away with a very incorrect + and exaggerated idea of the precipitousness of this side of the + mountain, because they have considered the question from one point of + view alone.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Several years + passed away before I shook myself clear of my early and false + impressions regarding the steepness of this side of the Matterhorn. + First of all, I noticed that there were places on this eastern face + where snow remained permanently all the year round. I do not speak of + snow in gullies, but of the considerable slopes which are seen upon + the accompanying engraving, about half-way up the face. Such beds as + these could not continue to remain throughout the summer, unless the + snow had been able to accumulate in the winter in large masses; and + snow cannot accu<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page228">[pg + 228]</span><a name="Pg228" id="Pg228" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>mulate and remain in large masses, in a + situation such as this, at angles much exceeding 45°.<a id= + "noteref_176" name="noteref_176" href="#note_176"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">176</span></span></a> Hence I + was bound to conclude that the eastern face was many degrees removed + from perpendicularity; and, to be sure on this point, I went to the + slopes between the Z’Muttgletscher and the Matterhorngletscher, above + the chalets of Staffel, whence the face could be seen in profile. Its + appearance from this direction would be amazing to one who had seen + it only from the east. It looks so totally different from the + apparently sheer and perfectly unclimbable cliff one sees from the + Riffelberg, that it is hard to believe the two slopes are one and the + same thing. Its angle scarcely exceeds 40°.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A great step was + made when this was learnt. This knowledge alone would not, however, + have caused me to try an ascent by the eastern face instead of by the + south-west ridge. Forty degrees may not seem a formidable inclination + to the reader, nor is it for only a small cliff. But it is very + unusual to find so steep a gradient maintained continuously as the + general angle of a great mountain-slope, and very few instances can + be quoted from the High Alps of such an angle being preserved over a + rise of 3000 feet.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I do not think + that the steepness or the height of this cliff would have deterred + climbers from attempting to ascend it, if it had not, in addition, + looked so repulsively smooth. Men despaired of finding anything to + grasp. Now, some of the difficulties of the south-west ridge came + from the smoothness of the rocks, although that ridge, even from a + distance, seemed to be well broken up. How much greater, then, might + not have been the difficulty of climbing a face which looked smooth + and unbroken close at hand?</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A more serious + hindrance to mounting the south-west ridge is found in the dip of its + rocks to the west-south-west. The great mass of the Matterhorn, it is + now well ascertained, is composed of <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page229">[pg 229]</span><a name="Pg229" id="Pg229" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>regularly stratified rocks,<a id="noteref_177" + name="noteref_177" href="#note_177"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">177</span></span></a> which + rise towards the east. It has been mentioned in the text, more than + once, that the rocks on some portions of the ridge leading from the + Col du Lion to the summit dip outwards, and that fractured edges + overhang.<a id="noteref_178" name="noteref_178" href= + "#note_178"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">178</span></span></a> This is + shown in the illustrations facing <a href="#plate04" class= + "tei tei-ref">pp. 76</a> and <a href="#plate06" class= + "tei tei-ref">84</a>; and the annexed diagram, Fig. 1, exhibits the + same thing still more clearly. It will be readily understood that + such an arrangement is not favourable for climbers, and that the + degree of facility with which rocks can be ascended that are so + disposed, must depend very much upon the frequency or paucity of + fissures and joints. The rocks of the south-west ridge are + sufficiently provided with cracks, but if it were otherwise, their + texture and arrangement would render them unassailable.<a id= + "noteref_179" name="noteref_179" href="#note_179"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">179</span></span></a></p><a name="fig65" + id="fig65" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus270.png" alt= + "Illustration: Diagrams to show dip of strata on the Matterhorn" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is not possible + to go a single time upon the rocks of the south-west ridge, from the + Col du Lion to the foot of the Great Tower, without observing the + prevalence of their outward dip, and that their fractured edges have + a tendency to overhang; nor can one fail to notice that it is upon + this account the débris, which is rent off by frost, does not remain + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">in + situ</span></span>, but pours down in showers over the surrounding + cliffs. Each day’s work, so to speak, is cleared away; the ridge is + swept clean; there is scarcely anything seen but firm rock.<a id= + "noteref_180" name="noteref_180" href="#note_180"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">180</span></span></a></p><span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page230">[pg 230]</span><a name="Pg230" id="Pg230" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The fact that the + mountain is composed of a series of stratified beds was pointed out + long ago. De Saussure remarked it, and recorded explicitly, in his + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Travels</span></span> (§ 2243), that they + <span class="tei tei-q">“rose to the north-east at an angle of about + 45°.”</span> Forbes noticed it also; and gave it as his opinion that + the beds were <span class="tei tei-q">“less inclined, or nearly + horizontal.”</span> He added, <span class="tei tei-q">“De Saussure is + no doubt correct.”</span><a id="noteref_181" name="noteref_181" href= + "#note_181"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">181</span></span></a> The + truth, I think, lies between the two.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I was acquainted + with both of the above-quoted passages, but did not turn the + knowledge to any practical account until I re-observed the same fact + for myself. It was not until after my repulse in 1863, that I + referred the peculiar difficulties of the south-west ridge to the dip + of the strata; but when once persuaded that structure and not texture + was the real impediment, it was reasonable to infer that the opposite + side, that is to say the eastern face, might be comparatively easy. + In brief, that an arrangement should be found like <a href="#fig65" + class="tei tei-ref">Fig. 2</a>, instead of like <a href="#fig65" + class="tei tei-ref">Fig. 1</a>. This trivial deduction was the key to + the ascent of the Matterhorn.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The point was, Did + the strata continue with a similar dip throughout the mountain? If + they did, then this great eastern face, instead of being hopelessly + impracticable, should be quite the reverse.—In fact, it should be a + great natural staircase, with steps inclining inwards; and, if it + were so, its smooth aspect might be of no account, for the smallest + steps, inclined in this fashion, would afford good footing.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">They did so, as + far as one could judge from a distance. When snow fell in the summer + time, it brought out long, terraced lines upon the mountain; rudely + parallel to each other; inclined in the direction shown + (approximately) upon the figures in the accompanying plate; and the + eastern face, on those occasions, was often whitened almost + completely over; while the other sides, with the <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page231">[pg 231]</span><a name="Pg231" id="Pg231" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>exception of the powdered terraces, + remained black—for the snow could not rest upon them.</p><a name= + "plate11" id="plate11" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus272a.png" alt= + "Illustration: The Matterhorn from the summit of the Theodule Pass" + title="THE MATTERHORN FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE THEODULE PASS." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE MATTERHORN FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE THEODULE PASS. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus272b.png" alt= + "Illustration: The Matterhorn from the North-East" title= + "THE MATTERHORN FROM THE NORTH-EAST." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE MATTERHORN FROM THE NORTH-EAST. + </div> + </div> + + <div class="block tei tei-p" style= + "margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"> + <span style="font-size: 90%">THE SPACES BETWEEN THE PARALLEL RED + LINES REPRESENT ON AN AVERAGE A VERTICAL HEIGHT OF ABOUT 60 FEET, + BUT, ON ACCOUNT OF FORESHORTENING, THE HEIGHT BETWEEN THE UPPERMOST + LINES IS SOMEWHAT MORE THAN THIS AMOUNT.</span> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The very outline + of the mountain, too, confirmed the conjecture that its structure + would assist an ascent on the eastern face, although it opposed one + on all other sides. Look at any photograph of the peak from the + north-east (or, failing one, the <a href="#plate11" class= + "tei tei-ref">outline facing page 230</a>, which is carefully traced + from one), and you will see that upon the right-hand side (that + facing the Z’Muttgletscher) there is an incessant repetition of + overhanging cliffs, and of slopes all trending downwards; in short, + that the character of the whole of that side is similar to <a href= + "#fig65" class="tei tei-ref">Fig. 1, p. 229</a>; and that upon the + left hand (or south-east) ridge, the forms, as far as they go, are + suggestive of the structure of <a href="#fig65" class= + "tei tei-ref">Fig. 2</a>. There is no doubt that the contours of the + mountain, seen from this direction, have been largely influenced by + the direction of its beds.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was not, + therefore, from a freak, that I invited Mr. Reilly to join in an + attack upon the eastern face, but from a gradually-acquired + conviction that it would prove to give the easiest path to the + summit; and, if we had not been obliged to part, the mountain would, + doubtless, have been ascended in 1864.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">My guides readily + admitted that they had been greatly deceived as to the steepness of + the eastern face, when they were halted to look at it in profile, as + we came down the Z’Muttgletscher, on our way to Zermatt; but they + were far from being satisfied that it would turn out to be easy to + climb, and Almer and Biener expressed themselves decidedly averse to + making an attempt upon it. I gave way temporarily before their + evident reluctance, and we made the ascent of the Théodulhorn to + examine an alternative route, which I expected would commend itself + to them in preference to the other, as a great part of it led over + snow.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">There is an + immense gully in the Matterhorn, which leads up from the Glacier du + Mont Cervin to a point high up on the <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page232">[pg 232]</span><a name="Pg232" id="Pg232" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>south-eastern ridge.<a id="noteref_182" name= + "noteref_182" href="#note_182"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">182</span></span></a> I + proposed to ascend this to its head, and to cross over the south-east + ridge on to the eastern face. This would have brought us on a level + with the bottom of the great snow-slope shown upon the centre of the + eastern face in the engraving facing <a href="#plate10" class= + "tei tei-ref">p. 227</a>. This snow-slope was to be crossed + diagonally, with the view of arriving at the snow upon the north-east + ridge, which is shown upon the same engraving, about half-an-inch + from the summit. The remainder of the ascent was to be made by the + broken rocks, mixed with snow, upon the north side of the mountain. + Croz caught the idea immediately, and thought the plan feasible; + details were settled, and we descended to Breil. Luc Meynet, the + hunchback, was summoned, and expressed himself delighted to resume + his old vocation of tent-bearer; and Favre’s kitchen was soon in + commotion preparing three days’ rations, for I intended to take that + amount of time over the affair—to sleep on the first night upon the + rocks at the top of the gully; to make a push for the summit, and to + return to the tent on the second day; and upon the third to come back + to Breil.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We started at 5.45 + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> on June 21, and followed the + route of the Breuiljoch<a id="noteref_183" name="noteref_183" href= + "#note_183"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">183</span></span></a> for + three hours. We were then in full view of our gully, and turned off + at right angles for it. The closer we approached, the more favourable + did it look. There was a good deal of snow in it, which was evidently + at a small angle, and it seemed as if one-third of the ascent, at + least, would be a very simple matter. Some suspicious marks in the + snow at its base suggested that it was not free from falling stones, + and, as a measure of precaution, we turned off on one side, worked up + under cover of the cliffs, and waited to see if anything should + descend. Nothing fell, so we proceeded up its right or northern side, + sometimes cutting steps up the snow and sometimes mounting by the + rocks. Shortly before 10 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> we arrived at a convenient place + for a halt, <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page233">[pg + 233]</span><a name="Pg233" id="Pg233" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and + stopped to rest upon some rocks, immediately close to the snow, which + commanded an excellent view of the gully.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">While the men were + unpacking the food I went to a little promontory to examine our + proposed route more narrowly, and to admire our noble couloir, which + led straight up into the heart of the mountain for fully one thousand + feet. It then bent towards the north, and ran up to the crest of the + south-eastern ridge. My curiosity was piqued to know what was round + this corner, and whilst I was gazing up at it, and following with the + eye the exquisitely drawn curves which wandered down the snow in the + gully, all converging to a large rut in its centre, I saw a few + little stones skidding down. I consoled myself with thinking that + they would not interfere with us if we adhered to the side. But then + a larger one came down, a solitary fellow, rushing at the rate of + sixty miles an hour—and another—and another. I was unwilling to raise + the fears of the men unnecessarily, and said nothing to them. They + did not hear the stones. Almer was seated on a rock, carving large + slices from a leg of mutton, the others were chatting, and the first + intimation they had of danger was from a crash—a sudden roar—which + reverberated awfully amongst the cliffs, and, looking up, they saw + masses of rocks, boulders and stones, big and little, dart round the + corner eight hundred feet or so above us, fly with fearful fury + against the opposite cliffs, rebound from them against the walls on + our side, and descend; some ricochetting from side to side in a + frantic manner; some bounding down in leaps of a hundred feet or more + over the snow; and others trailing down in a jumbled, confused mass, + mixed with snow and ice, deepening the grooves which, a moment + before, had excited my admiration.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The men looked + wildly around for protection, and, dropping the food, dashed under + cover in all directions. The precious mutton was pitched on one side, + the wine-bag was let fall, and its contents gushed out from the + unclosed neck, whilst all four cowered under defending rocks, + endeavouring to make themselves as small as possible. Let it not be + supposed that their fright was unreason<span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page234">[pg 234]</span><a name="Pg234" id="Pg234" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>able, or that I was free from it. I took good + care to make myself safe, and went and cringed in a cleft until the + storm had passed. But their scramble to get under shelter was + indescribably ludicrous. Such a panic I have never witnessed, before + or since, upon a mountain-side.<a id="noteref_184" name="noteref_184" + href="#note_184"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">184</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This ricochet + practice was a novelty to me. It arose, of course, from the couloir + being bent, and from the falling rocks having acquired great pace + before they passed the angle. In straight gullies it will, probably, + never be experienced. The rule is, as I have already remarked, that + falling stones keep down the centres of gullies, and they are out of + harm’s way if one follows the sides.</p><a name="fig66" id="fig66" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus277.png" alt= + "Illustration: My tent-bearer—the hunchback" title= + "MY TENT-BEARER—THE HUNCHBACK." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + MY TENT-BEARER—THE HUNCHBACK. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">There would have + been singularly little amusement, and very great risk, in mounting + this gully, and we turned our backs upon it with perfect unanimity. + The question then arose, <span class="tei tei-q">“What is to be + done?”</span> I suggested climbing the rocks above us, but this was + voted impossible. I thought the men were right, yet would not give in + without being assured of the fact, and clambered up to <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page235">[pg 235]</span><a name="Pg235" id="Pg235" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>settle the question. In a few minutes I + was brought to a halt. My forces were scattered; the little hunchback + alone was closely following me—with a broad grin upon his face, and + the tent upon his shoulder; Croz, more behind, was still keeping an + eye upon his <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Monsieur</span></span>; Almer, a hundred feet + below, sat on a rock with his face buried in his hands; Biener was + nowhere, out of sight. <span class="tei tei-q">“Come down, come + down,”</span> shouted Croz; <span class="tei tei-q">“it is + useless,”</span> and I turned at length, convinced that it was even + as he said. Thus my little plan was knocked on the head, and we were + thrown back upon the original scheme.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We at once made a + straight track for Mr. Morshead’s Breuiljoch<a id="noteref_185" name= + "noteref_185" href="#note_185"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">185</span></span></a> (which + was the most direct route to take in order to get to the Hörnli, + where we intended to sleep, preparatory to attacking the eastern + face), and arrived upon its summit at 12.30 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> We were + then unexpectedly checked. The pass, as one, had vanished! and we + found ourselves cut off from the Furggengletscher by a small but + precipitous wall of rock;—the glacier had shrunk so much that descent + was impracticable. During the last hour clouds had been coming up + from the south; they now surrounded us, and it began to blow hard. + The men clustered together, and advocated leaving the mountain alone. + Almer asked, with more point than politeness, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Why don’t you try to go up a mountain which <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">can</span></span> be + ascended?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“It is impossible,”</span> + chimed in Biener. <span class="tei tei-q">“Sir,”</span> said Croz, + <span class="tei tei-q">“if we cross to the other side we shall lose + three days, and very likely shall not succeed. You want to make + ascents in the chain of Mont Blanc, and I believe they can be made. + But I shall not be able to make them with you if I spend these days + here, for I must be at Chamounix on the 27th.”</span> There was force + in what he said, and his words made me hesitate. I relied upon his + strong arms for some work which it was expected would be unusually + difficult. Snow began to fall; that settled the matter, and I gave + the word to retreat. We went back to Breil, and on to the village of + Val Tournanche, where we slept; and the next <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page236">[pg 236]</span><a name="Pg236" id="Pg236" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>day proceeded to Chatillon, and thence up the + Valley of Aosta to Courmayeur.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I cannot but + regret that the counsels of the guides prevailed. If Croz had not + uttered his well-intentioned words, he might still have been living. + He parted from us at Chamounix at the appointed time, but by a + strange chance we met again at Zermatt three weeks later, and two + days afterwards he perished before my eyes on the very mountain from + which we turned away, at his advice, on the 21st of June.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On June 23 we + mounted to the top of Mont Saxe, to scan the Grandes Jorasses, with + the view of ascending it. Five thousand feet of glacier-covered + precipices rose above us, and up all that height we tracked a way to + our satisfaction. Three thousand feet more of glacier and + forest-covered slopes lay beneath, and <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">there</span></span>, + there was only one point at which it was doubtful if we should find a + path. The glaciers were shrinking, and were surrounded by bastions of + rounded rock, far too polished to please the rough mountaineer. We + could not track a way across them. However, at 4 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> the next + day, under the dexterous leading of Michel Croz, we passed the + doubtful spot. Thence it was all plain sailing, and at 1 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> we + gained the summit. The weather was boisterous in the upper regions, + and storm-clouds driven before the wind, and wrecked against our + heights, enveloped us in misty spray, which danced around and fled + away, which cut us off from the material universe, and caused us to + be, as it were, suspended betwixt heaven and earth, seeing both + occasionally, but seeming to belong to neither.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The mists lasted + longer than my patience, and we descended without having attained the + object for which the ascent was made. At first we followed the little + ridge shown upon the <a href="#fig67" class= + "tei tei-ref">accompanying engraving</a>, leading from our summit + towards the spectator, and then took to the head of the corridor of + glacier on its left, which in the view is left perfectly white. The + slopes were steep and covered with new-fallen snow, flour-like and + evil to tread upon. On the <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page237">[pg + 237]</span><a name="Pg237" id="Pg237" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>ascent we had reviled it, and had made our + staircase with much caution, knowing full well that the disturbance + of its base would bring down all that was above. In descending, the + bolder spirits counselled trusting to luck and a glissade; the + cautious ones advo<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page238">[pg + 238]</span><a name="Pg238" id="Pg238" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>cated avoiding the slopes and crossing to the + rocks on their farther side. The advice of the latter prevailed, and + we had half-traversed the snow, to gain the ridge, when the crust + slipped and we went along with it. <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Halt!”</span> broke from all four, unanimously. The + axe-heads flew round as we started on this involuntary glissade. It + was useless, they slid over the underlying ice fruitlessly. + <span class="tei tei-q">“Halt!”</span> thundered Croz, as he dashed + his weapon in again with superhuman energy. No halt could be made, + and we slid down slowly, but with accelerating motion, driving up + waves of snow in front, with streams of the nasty stuff hissing all + around. Luckily, the slope eased off at one place, the leading men + cleverly jumped aside out of the moving snow, we others followed, and + the young avalanche which we had started, continuing to pour down, + fell into a yawning crevasse, and showed us where our grave would + have been if we had remained in its company five seconds longer. The + whole affair did not occupy half-a-minute. It was the solitary + incident of a long day, and at nightfall we re-entered the excellent + house kept by the courteous Bertolini, well satisfied that we had not + met with more incidents of a similar description.<a id="noteref_186" + name="noteref_186" href="#note_186"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">186</span></span></a></p><a name="fig67" + id="fig67" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus280.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: The Grandes Jorasses and the Doire Torrent, from the Italian Val Ferret" + title= + "THE GRANDES JORASSES AND THE DOIRE TORRENT, FROM THE ITALIAN VAL FERRET." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE GRANDES JORASSES AND THE DOIRE TORRENT, FROM THE ITALIAN VAL + FERRET. + </div> + </div> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page239">[pg 239]</span><a name="Pg239" + id="Pg239" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc35" id= + "toc35"></a> <a name="pdf36" id="pdf36"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER XV.</span></h1> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL + DOLENT.</span></h1> + + <div class="tei tei-epigraph" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 9.00em"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 0.90em"><span class="tei tei-q" + style="text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Men willingly + believe what they wish.</span><span style= + "font-size: 90%">”</span></span><span style= + "font-size: 90%">—</span><span class="tei tei-hi" style= + "text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Cæsar.</span></span></p> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Freethinking + mountaineers have been latterly in the habit of going up one side of + an Alp and coming down the other, and calling the route a pass. In + this confusion of ideas may be recognised the result of the looseness + of thought which arises from the absence of technical education. The + true believer abhors such heresies, and observes with satisfaction + that Providence oftentimes punishes the offenders for their + greediness by causing them to be benighted. The faithful know that + passes must be made <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">between</span></span> mountains, and not over + their tops. Their creed declares that between any two mountains there + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">must</span></span> be a pass, and they believe + that the end for which big peaks were created—the office they are + especially designed to fulfil—is to point out the way one should go. + This is the true faith, and there is no other.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We set out upon + the 26th of June to endeavour to add one more to the passes which are + strictly orthodox. We hoped, rather than expected, to discover a + quicker route from Courmayeur to Chamounix than the Col du Géant, + which was the easiest, quickest, and most direct pass known at the + time across the main chain of Mont Blanc.<a id="noteref_187" name= + "noteref_187" href="#note_187"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">187</span></span></a> The + misgivings which I had as to the result caused us to start at the + unusual hour of 12.40 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> At 4.30 we passed the chalets of + Prè du Bar, and thence, for some distance, followed the track which + we had made upon the ascent of Mont Dolent, over the <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page240">[pg 240]</span><a name="Pg240" id="Pg240" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>glacier of the same name (<a href="#Pg182" + class="tei tei-ref">p. 182</a>). At a quarter past 8 we arrived at + the head of the glacier, and at the foot of the only steep gradient + upon the whole of the ascent.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was the + beau-ideal of a pass. There was a gap in the mountains, with a big + peak on each side (Mount Dolent and the Aig. de Triolet). A narrow + thread of snow led up to the lowest point between those mountains, + and the blue sky beyond said, Directly you arrive here you will begin + to go down. We addressed ourselves to our task, and at 10.15 + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> arrived at the top of the + pass.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Had things gone as + they ought, within six hours more we should have been at Chamounix. + Upon the other side we knew that there was a couloir in + correspondence with that up which we had just come. If it had been + filled with snow all would have been well. It turned out to be filled + with ice. Croz, who led, passed over to the other side, and reported + that we should get down somehow, but I knew from the sound of his axe + how the somehow would be, and settled myself to sketch, well assured + that <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">I</span></span> should not be wanted for an hour + to come. What I saw is shown in the <a href="#fig68" class= + "tei tei-ref">engraving</a>. A sharp aiguille (nameless), perhaps the + sharpest in the whole range, backed on the left by the Aig. de + Triolet; queer blocks of (probably) protogine sticking out awkwardly + through the snow; and a huge cornice from which big icicles depended, + that broke away occasionally and went <span class= + "tei tei-sic">skiddling</span> down the slope up which we had come. + Of the Argentière side I could not see anything.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Croz was tied up + with our good Manilla rope, and the whole 200 feet were payed out + gradually by Almer and Biener before he ceased working. After two + hours’ incessant toil, he was able to anchor himself to the rock on + his right. He then untied himself, the rope was drawn in, Biener was + attached to the end and went down to join his comrade. There was then + room enough for me to stand by the side of Almer, and I got my first + view of the other side. For the first and only time in my life I + looked down a slope more than a thousand feet long, set at an angle + of about 50°, which was a sheet of ice from top to bottom. It was + unbroken by rock or crag, and <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page241">[pg 241]</span><a name="Pg241" id="Pg241" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>anything thrown down it sped away unarrested + until the level of the Glacier d’Argentière was reached. The entire + basin of that noble <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page242">[pg + 242]</span><a name="Pg242" id="Pg242" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>glacier<a id="noteref_188" name="noteref_188" + href="#note_188"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">188</span></span></a> was + spread out at our feet, and the ridge beyond, culminating in the Aig. + d’Argentière, was seen to the greatest advantage. I confess, however, + that I paid very little attention to the view, for there was no time + to indulge in such luxuries. I descended the icy staircase and joined + the others, and then we three drew in the rope tenderly as Almer came + down. His was not an enviable position, but he descended with as much + steadiness as if his whole life had been passed on ice-slopes of 50°. + The process was repeated; Croz again going to the front, and availing + himself very skilfully of the rocks which projected from the cliff on + our right. Our 200 feet of rope again came to an end, and we again + descended one by one. From this point we were able to clamber down by + the rocks alone for about 300 feet. They then became sheer cliff, and + we stopped for dinner, about 2.30 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span>, at the + last place upon which we could sit. Four hours’ incessant work had + brought us rather more than half-way down the gully. We were now + approaching, although we were still high above, the schrunds at its + base, and the guides made out, in some way unknown to me, that Nature + had perversely placed the only snow-bridge across the topmost one + towards the centre of the gully. It was decided to cut diagonally + across the gully to the point where the snow-bridge was supposed to + be. Almer and Biener undertook the work, leaving Croz and myself + firmly planted on the rocks to pay out the rope to them as they + advanced.</p><a name="fig68" id="fig68" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus284.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: The summit of the Col Dolent" title= + "THE SUMMIT OF THE COL DOLENT." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE SUMMIT OF THE COL DOLENT. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is generally + admitted that veritable ice-slopes (understanding by ice something + more than a crust of hard snow over soft snow) are only rarely met + with in the Alps. They are frequently spoken of, but such as that to + which I refer are <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">very</span></span> rarely seen, and still more + seldom traversed. It is, however, always possible that they may be + encountered, and on this account, if for no other, it is necessary + for men who go mountaineering to be armed with ice-axes, and with + good ones. The form is of more importance than <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page243">[pg 243]</span><a name="Pg243" id="Pg243" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>might be supposed. Of course, if you + intend to act as a simple amateur, and let others do the work, and + only follow in their steps, it is not of much importance what kind of + ice-axe you carry, so long as its head does not fall off, or + otherwise behave itself improperly.<a id="noteref_189" name= + "noteref_189" href="#note_189"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">189</span></span></a> There + is no better weapon for cutting steps in ice than a common pick-axe, + and the form of ice-axe which is now usually employed by the best + guides is very like a miniature pick. My own axe is copied from + Melchior Anderegg’s. It is of wrought iron, with point and edge + steeled. Its weight, including spiked handle, is four pounds. For + cutting steps in ice, the pointed end of the head is almost + exclusively employed; the adze-end is handy for polishing them up, + but is principally used for cutting in hard snow. Apart from its + value as a cutting weapon, it is invaluable as a grapnel. It is + <a name="corr243" id="corr243" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr">naturally</span> a + rather awkward implement when it is not being employed for its + legitimate purpose, and is likely to give rise to much strong + language in crushes at railway termini, unless its head is protected + with a leathern cap, or in some other way. Many attempts have + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page244">[pg 244]</span><a name="Pg244" + id="Pg244" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>been made, for the sake of + convenience, to fashion an ice-axe with a movable head, but it seems + difficult or impossible to produce one except at the expense of + cutting qualities, and by increasing the weight.</p><a name="fig69" + id="fig69" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="fig70" id="fig70" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a><a name="fig71" id="fig71" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus286.png" alt="Illustration: My ice-axe" + title="MY ICE-AXE." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + MY ICE-AXE. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus287a.png" alt="Illustration: Kennedy ice-axe" + title="KENNEDY ICE-AXE." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + KENNEDY ICE-AXE. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus287b.png" alt= + "Illustration: The Leslie Stephen ice-axe" title= + "THE “LESLIE STEPHEN” AXE." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: center">“LESLIE + STEPHEN”</span> AXE. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Mr. T. S. Kennedy + (of the firm of Fairbairn & Co.), whose practical acquaintance + with mountaineering, and with the use and manufacture of tools, makes + his opinion particularly valuable, has contrived the best that I have + seen; but even it seems to me to be deficient in rigidity, and not to + be so powerful a weapon as the more common kind with the fixed head. + The simple instrument which is shown in the annexed diagram is the + invention of Mr. Leslie Stephen, and it answers the purposes for + which he devised it, namely, for giving better hold upon snow and ice + than can be obtained from the common alpenstock, and for cutting an + occasional step. The amateur scarcely requires anything more + imposing, but for serious ice-work a heavier weapon is + indispensable.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">To persons armed + with the proper tools, ice-slopes are not so dangerous as many places + which appeal less to the imagination. Their ascent or descent is + necessarily laborious (to those who do the work), and they may + therefore be termed difficult. They <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">ought</span></span> not + to be dangerous. Yet they always seem dangerous, for one is + profoundly convinced that if he slips he will certainly go to the + bottom. Hence, any man, who is not a fool, takes particular care to + preserve his balance, and, in consequence, we have the noteworthy + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page245">[pg 245]</span><a name="Pg245" + id="Pg245" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>fact that accidents have seldom + or never taken place upon ice-slopes.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The same slopes + covered with snow are much less impressive, and <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">may</span></span> be + much more dangerous. They may be less slippery, the balance may be + more easily preserved, and if one man slips he may be stopped by his + own personal efforts, provided the snow which over-lies the ice is + consolidated and of a reasonable depth. But if, as is more likely to + be the case upon an angle of 50° (or anything approaching that + angle), there is only a thin stratum of snow which is not + consolidated, the occurrence of a slip will most likely take the + entire party as low as possible, and in addition to the chance of + broken necks, there will be a strong probability that some, at least, + will be smothered by the dislodged snow. Such accidents are far too + common, and their occurrence, as a rule, may be traced to the want of + caution which is induced by the apparent absence of danger.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I do not believe + that the use of the rope, in the ordinary way, affords the least + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">real</span></span> security upon ice-slopes. Nor + do I think that any benefit is derived from the employment of + crampons. Mr. Kennedy was good enough to present me with a pair some + time ago, and one of these has been engraved. They are the best + variety I have seen of the species, but I only feel comfortable with + them on my feet in places where they are not of the slightest use, + that is in situations where there is no possibility of slipping, and + would not wear them upon an ice-slope for any consideration whatever. + All such adventitious aids are useless if you have not a good step in + the ice to stand upon, and if you have got that, nothing more is + wanted except a few nails in the boots.</p><a name="ill245" id= + "ill245" class="tei tei-anchor"></a><a name="fig72" id="fig72" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus288.png" alt="Illustration: Crampon" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Almer and Biener + got to the end of their tether; the rope no longer assured their + safety, and they stopped work as we advanced and coiled it up. + Shortly afterwards they struck a streak of snow <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page246">[pg 246]</span><a name="Pg246" id="Pg246" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>that proved to be just above the bridge of + which they were in search. The slope steepened, and for thirty feet + or so we descended face to the wall, making steps by kicking with the + toes, and thrusting the arms well into the holes above, just as if + they had been rounds in a ladder. At this time we were crossing the + uppermost of the schrunds. Needless to say that the snow was of an + admirable quality; this performance would otherwise have been + impossible. It was soon over, and we then found ourselves upon a huge + rhomboidal mass of ice, and still separated from the Argentière + glacier by a gigantic crevasse. The only bridge over this lower + schrund was at its eastern end, and we were obliged to double back to + get to it. Cutting continued for half-an-hour after it was passed, + and it was 5.35 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> before the axes stopped work, and + we could at last turn back and look comfortably at the formidable + slope upon which seven hours had been spent.<a id="noteref_190" name= + "noteref_190" href="#note_190"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">190</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Col Dolent is + not likely to compete with the Col du Géant, and I would recommend + any person who starts to cross it to allow himself plenty of time, + plenty of rope, and ample guide-power. There is no difficulty + whatever upon any part of the route, excepting upon the steep slopes + immediately below the summit on each side. When we arrived upon the + Glacier d’Argentière, our work was as good as over. We drove a + straight track to the chalets of Lognan, and thence the way led over + familiar ground. Soon after dusk we got into the high road at les + Tines, and at 10 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> arrived at Chamounix. Our labours + were duly rewarded. Houris brought us champagne and the other drinks + which are reserved for the faithful, but before my share was consumed + I fell asleep in an arm-chair. I slept soundly until daybreak, and + then turned into bed and went to sleep again.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page247">[pg 247]</span><a name="Pg247" + id="Pg247" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc37" id= + "toc37"></a> <a name="pdf38" id="pdf38"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER XVI.</span></h1> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE + VERTE.</span></h1> + + <div class="tei tei-epigraph" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 9.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-lg" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-left: 1.80em; margin-top: 0.90em"> + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Few have + the fortitude of soul to honour,</span></span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">A friend’s success, without a touch of + envy.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: right"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Æschylus.</span></span> + </div> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Michel Croz now + parted from us. His new employer had not arrived at Chamounix, but + Croz considered that he was bound by honour to wait for him, and thus + Christian Almer, of Grindelwald, became my leading guide.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Almer displayed + aptitude for mountaineering at an early age. Whilst still a very + young man he was known as a crack chamois-hunter, and he soon + developed into an accomplished guide. Those who have read Mr. Wills’ + graphic account of the first ascent of the Wetterhorn<a id= + "noteref_191" name="noteref_191" href="#note_191"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">191</span></span></a> will + remember that, when his party was approaching the top of the + mountain, two stranger men were seen climbing by a slightly different + route, one of whom carried upon his back a young fir-tree, branches, + leaves, and all. Mr. Wills’ guides were extremely indignant with + these two strangers (who were evidently determined to be the first at + the summit), and talked of giving them blows. Eventually they gave + them a cake of chocolate instead, and declared that they were good + fellows. <span class="tei tei-q">“Thus the pipe of peace was smoked, + and tranquillity reigned between the rival forces.”</span> Christian + Almer was one of these two men.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This was in 1854. + In 1858-9 he made the first ascents of the Eigher and the Mönch, the + former with a Mr. Harrington (?), and the latter with Dr. Porges. + Since then he has wandered far and <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page248">[pg 248]</span><a name="Pg248" id="Pg248" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>near, from Dauphiné to the Tyrol.<a id= + "noteref_192" name="noteref_192" href="#note_192"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">192</span></span></a> With + the exception of Melchior Anderegg, there is not, perhaps, another + guide of such wide experience, or one who has been so invariably + successful; and his numerous employers concur in saying that there is + not a truer heart or a surer foot to be found amongst the + Alps.</p><a name="fig73" id="fig73" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus291.png" alt= + "Illustration: Portrait of Christian Almer" title= + "CHRISTIAN ALMER.193193Engraved, by permission, from a photograph by Mr. E. Edwards." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + CHRISTIAN ALMER.<a id="noteref_193" name="noteref_193" href= + "#note_193"><span class="tei tei-noteref" style= + "text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">193</span></span></a> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Before recrossing + the chain to Courmayeur, we ascended the Aiguille Verte. In company + with Mr. Reilly I inspected this mountain from every direction in + 1864, and came to the conclusion that an ascent could more easily be + made from the south than upon any other side. We set out upon the + 28th from Chamounix to attack it, minus Croz, and plus a porter (of + whom I will speak more particularly presently), leaving our comrade + very downcast at having to kick his heels in idleness, whilst we were + about to scale the most celebrated of his native Aiguilles.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Our course led us + over the old Mer de Glace—the glacier made famous by De Saussure and + Forbes. The heat of the day was <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page249">[pg 249]</span><a name="Pg249" id="Pg249" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>over, but the little rills and rivulets were + still flowing along the surface of the ice: cutting deep troughs + where the gradients were small; leaving ripple-marks where the water + was with more difficulty confined to one channel; and falling over + the precipitous walls of the great crevasses, sometimes in bounding + cascades, and sometimes in diffused streams, which marked the + perpendicular faces with graceful sinuosities.<a id="noteref_194" + name="noteref_194" href="#note_194"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">194</span></span></a> As + night came on, their music died away, the rivulets dwindled down to + rills; the rills ceased to murmur, and the sparkling drops, caught by + the hand of frost, were bound to the ice, coating it with an + enamelled film which lasted until the sun struck the glacier once + more.</p><a name="fig74" id="fig74" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus292.png" alt= + "Illustration: On the Mer de Glace" title="ON THE MER DE GLACE." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + ON THE MER DE GLACE. + </div> + </div><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page250">[pg 250]</span><a name= + "Pg250" id="Pg250" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We camped on the + Couvercle (7800) under a great rock, and at 3.15 the next morning + started for our aiguille, leaving the porter in charge of the tent + and of the food. Two hours’ walking over crisp snow brought us up + more than 4000 feet, and within about 1600 feet of the summit. From + no other direction can it be approached so closely with equal + facility. Thence the mountain steepens. After his late severe piece + of ice-work, Almer had a natural inclination for rocks; but the lower + rocks of the final peak of the Verte were not inviting, and he went + on and on, looking for a way up them, until we arrived in front of a + great snow couloir that led from the Glacier de Talèfre right up to + the crest of the ridge connecting the summit of the Verte with the + mountain called Les Droites. This was the route which I intended to + be taken; but Almer pointed out that the gully narrowed at the lower + part, and that, if stones fell, we should stand some chance of + getting our heads broken; and so we went on still more to the east of + the summit, to another and smaller couloir which ran up side by side + with the great one. At 5.30 we crossed the schrund which protected + the final peak, and, a few minutes afterwards, saw the summit and the + whole of the intervening route. <span class="tei tei-q">“Oh! Aiguille + Verte,”</span> said my guide, stopping as he said it, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“you are dead, you are dead;”</span> which, being + translated into plain English, meant that he was cock-sure we should + make its ascent.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Almer is a quiet + man at all times. When climbing he is taciturn—and this is one of his + great merits. A garrulous man is always a nuisance, and upon the + mountain-side he may be a danger, for actual climbing requires a + man’s whole attention. Added to this, talkative men are hindrances; + they are usually thirsty, and a thirsty man is a drag.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Guide-books + recommend mountain-walkers to suck pebbles, to prevent their throats + from becoming parched. There is not much goodness to be got out of + the pebbles; but you cannot suck them and keep the mouth open at the + same time, and hence the throat does not become dry. It answers just + as well to keep the mouth <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page251">[pg + 251]</span><a name="Pg251" id="Pg251" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>shut, without any pebbles inside,—indeed, I + think, better; for if you have occasion to open your mouth, you can + do so without swallowing any pebbles.<a id="noteref_195" name= + "noteref_195" href="#note_195"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">195</span></span></a> As a + rule, amateurs, and particularly novices, <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">will not</span></span> + keep their mouths shut. They attempt to <span class= + "tei tei-q">“force the pace,”</span> they go faster than they can go + without being compelled to open their mouths to breathe, they pant, + their throats and tongues become parched, they drink and perspire + copiously, and, becoming exhausted, declare that the dryness of the + air, or the rarefaction of the air (everything is laid upon the air), + is in fault. On several accounts, therefore, a mountain-climber does + well to hold his tongue when he is at his work.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At the top of the + small gully we crossed over the intervening rocks into the large one, + and followed it so long as it was filled with snow. At last ice + replaced snow, and we turned over to the rocks upon its left. + Charming rocks they were; granitic in texture,<a id="noteref_196" + name="noteref_196" href="#note_196"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">196</span></span></a> gritty, + holding the nails well. At 9.45 we parted from them, and completed + the ascent by a little ridge of snow which descended in the direction + of the Aiguille du Moine. At 10.15 we stood on the summit (13,540), + and devoured our bread and cheese with a good appetite.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I have already + spoken of the disappointing nature of purely panoramic views. That + seen from Mont Blanc itself is notoriously unsatisfactory. When you + are upon that summit you look down upon all the rest of Europe. There + is nothing to look up to; all is below; there is no one point for the + eye to rest upon. The man who is there is somewhat in the position of + one who has attained all that he desires,—he has nothing to aspire + to; his position must needs be unsatisfactory. Upon the summit of the + Verte there is not this objection. You see valleys, villages, fields; + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page252">[pg 252]</span><a name="Pg252" + id="Pg252" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>you see mountains interminable + rolling away, lakes resting in their hollows; you hear the tinkling + of the sheep-bells as it rises through the clear mountain air, and + the roar of the avalanches as they descend to the valleys: but above + all there is the great white dome, with its shining crest high above; + with its sparkling glaciers that descend between buttresses which + support them: with its brilliant snows, purer and yet purer the + farther they are removed from this unclean world.<a id="noteref_197" + name="noteref_197" href="#note_197"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">197</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Even upon this + mountain-top it was impossible to forget the world, for some vile + wretch came to the Jardin and made hideous sounds by blowing through + a horn. Whilst we were denouncing him a change came over the weather; + cumulous clouds gathered in all directions, and we started off in hot + haste. Snow began to fall heavily before we were off the + summit-rocks, our track was obscured and frequently lost, and + everything became so sloppy and slippery that the descent took as + long as the ascent. The schrund was recrossed at 3.15 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span>, and + thence we raced down to the Couvercle, intending to have a carouse + there; but as we rounded our rock a howl broke simultaneously from + all three of us, for the porter had taken down the tent, and was in + the act of moving off with it. <span class="tei tei-q">“Stop, there! + what are you doing?”</span> He observed that he had thought we were + killed, or at least lost, and was going to Chamounix to communicate + his ideas to the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">guide chef</span></span>. <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Unfasten the tent, and get out the food.”</span> Instead + of doing so the porter fumbled in his pockets. <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Get out the food,”</span> we roared, losing all + patience. <span class="tei tei-q">“Here it is,”</span> said our + worthy friend, producing a dirty piece of bread about as big as a + halfpenny roll. We three looked solemnly at the fluff-covered morsel. + It was past a joke,—he had devoured everything. Mutton, loaves, + cheese, wine, eggs, sausages—all was gone—past recovery. It was idle + to grumble, and useless to wait. We were light, and could move + quickly,—the porter was laden <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page253">[pg 253]</span><a name="Pg253" id="Pg253" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>inside and out. We went our hardest,—he had to + shuffle and trot. He streamed with perspiration; the mutton and + cheese oozed out in big drops,—he larded the glacier. We had our + revenge, and dried our clothes at the same time, but when we arrived + at the Montanvert the porter was as wet as we had been upon our + arrival at the Couvercle. We halted at the inn to get a little food, + and at a quarter past eight re-entered Chamounix, amidst firing of + cannon and other demonstrations of satisfaction on the part of the + hotel-keepers.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">One would have + thought that the ascent of this mountain, which had been frequently + assailed before without success, would have afforded some + gratification to a population whose chief support is derived from + tourists, and that the prospect of the perennial flow of francs which + might be expected to result from it would have stifled the jealousy + consequent on the success of foreigners.<a id="noteref_198" name= + "noteref_198" href="#note_198"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">198</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was not so. + Chamounix stood on its rights. A stranger had ignored the + <span class="tei tei-q">“regulations,”</span> had imported two + foreign guides, and, furthermore, he had added injury to that + insult—he had not taken a single Chamounix guide. Chamounix would be + revenged! It would bully the foreign guides; it would tell them they + had lied,—that they had not made the ascent! Where were their proofs? + Where was the flag upon the summit?</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Poor Almer and + Biener were accordingly chivied from pillar to post, from one inn to + another, and at length complained to me. Peter Perrn, the Zermatt + guide, said on the night that we returned that this was to happen, + but the story seemed too absurd to be true. I now bade my men go out + again, and followed them myself to see the sport. Chamounix was + greatly excited. The <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">bureau</span></span> of the <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">guide + chef</span></span> was thronged with clamouring men. Their + ringleader—one Zacharie Cachat—a well-known guide, of no particular + merit, but not a bad fellow, was haranguing the <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page254">[pg 254]</span><a name="Pg254" id="Pg254" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>multitude. He met with more than his + match. My friend Kennedy, who was on the spot, heard of the + disturbance and rushed into the fray, confronted the burly guide, and + thrust back his absurdities into his teeth.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">There were the + materials for a very pretty riot; but they manage these things better + in France than we do, and the gensdarmes—three strong—came down and + dispersed the crowd. The guides quailed before the cocked hats, and + retired to cabarets to take little glasses of absinthe and other + liquors more or less injurious to the human frame. Under the + influence of these stimulants, they conceived an idea which combined + revenge with profit. <span class="tei tei-q">“You have ascended the + Aiguille Verte, you say. <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">We</span></span> say we don’t believe it. + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">We</span></span> say, do it again! Take three of + us with you, and we will bet you two thousand francs to one thousand, + that you won’t make the ascent!”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This proposition + was formally notified to me, but I declined it, with thanks, and + recommended Kennedy to go in and win. I accepted, however, a hundred + franc share in the bet, and calculated upon getting two hundred per + cent on my investment. Alas! how vain are human expectations! + Zacharie Cachat was put into confinement, and although Kennedy + actually ascended the Aiguille a week later, with two Chamounix + guides and Peter Perrn, the bet came to nothing.<a id="noteref_199" + name="noteref_199" href="#note_199"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">199</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The weather + arranged itself just as this storm in a teapot blew over, and we left + at once for the Montanvert, in order to show the Chamouniards the + easiest way over the chain of Mont Blanc, in return for the + civilities which we had received from them during the past three + days.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page255">[pg + 255]</span><a name="Pg255" id="Pg255" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><a name="fig75" id="fig75" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + <hr class="page" /> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus298.png" alt= + "Illustration: Western side of the Col de Talèfre" title= + "WESTERN SIDE OF THE COL DE TALÈFRE." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + WESTERN SIDE OF THE COL DE TALÈFRE. + </div> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <a name="toc39" id="toc39"></a> <a name="pdf40" id="pdf40"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER XVII.</span></h1> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DE + TALÈFRE.</span></h1> + + <div class="tei tei-epigraph" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 9.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-lg" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-left: 1.80em; margin-top: 0.90em"> + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">’Tis more + by art than force of numerous strokes.</span><span style= + "font-size: 90%">”</span></span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: center"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style= + "text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps"> + Homer.</span></span> + </div> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The person who + discovered the Col du Géant must have been a shrewd mountaineer. The + pass was in use before any other was known across the main chain of + Mont Blanc, and down to the present time it remains the easiest and + quickest route from Chamounix to Courmayeur, with the single + exception of the pass that we crossed upon the 3d of July, for the + first time, which lies about mid-way between the Aiguille de Triolet + and the Aiguille de Talèfre, and which, for want of a better name, I + have called the Col de Talèfre.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When one looks + toward the upper end of the Glacier de Talèfre from the direction of + the Jardin or of the Couvercle, the ridge that bounds the view seems + to be of little elevation. It is overpowered by the colossal Grandes + Jorasses, and by the almost equally magnificent Aiguille Verte. The + ridge, notwithstanding, is by no means despicable. At no point is its + elevation less than 11,600 feet. It <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page256">[pg 256]</span><a name="Pg256" id="Pg256" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>does not look anything like this height. The + Glacier de Talèfre mounts with a steady incline, and the eye is + completely deceived.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In 1864, when + prowling about with Mr. Reilly, I instinctively fixed upon a bent + couloir which led up from the glacier to the lowest part of the + ridge; and when, after crossing the Col de Triolet, I saw that the + other side presented no particular difficulty, it seemed to me that + this was the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">one</span></span> point in the whole of the + range which would afford an easier passage than the Col du Géant.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We set out from + the Montanvert at 4 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> upon July 3, to see whether this + opinion was correct, and it fortunately happened that the Rev. A. G. + Girdlestone and a friend, with two Chamounix guides, left the inn at + the same hour as ourselves, to cross the Col du Géant. We kept in + company as far as our routes lay together, and at 9.35 we arrived at + the top of our pass, having taken the route to the south of the + Jardin. Description is unnecessary, as our track is laid down very + clearly on the <a href="#fig75" class="tei tei-ref">engraving</a> at + the head of this chapter.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Much snow had + fallen during the late bad weather, and as we reposed upon the top of + our pass (which was about 11,650 feet above the level of the sea, and + 600 feet above the Col du Géant), we saw that the descent of the + rocks which intervened between us and the Glacier de Triolet would + require some caution, for the sun’s rays poured down directly upon + them, and the snow slipped away every now and then from ledge to + ledge just as if it had been water,—in cascades not large enough to + be imposing, but sufficient to knock us over if we got in their way. + This little bit of cliff consequently took a longer time than it + should have done, for when we heard the indescribable swishing, + hissing sound which announced a coming fall, we of necessity huddled + under the lee of the rocks until the snow ceased to shoot over + us.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We got to the + level of the Glacier de Triolet without misadventure, then steered + for its left bank to avoid the upper of its two formidable ice-falls, + and after descending the requisite distance by some old snow lying + between the glacier and the cliffs which border <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page257">[pg 257]</span><a name="Pg257" id="Pg257" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>it, crossed directly to the right bank + over the level ice between the two ice-falls.<a id="noteref_200" + name="noteref_200" href="#note_200"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">200</span></span></a> The + right bank was gained without any trouble, and we found there + numerous beds of hard snow (avalanche débris) down which we could run + or glissade as fast as we liked.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Glissading is a + very pleasant employment when it is accomplished successfully, and I + have never seen a place where it can be more safely indulged in than + the snowy valley on the right bank of the Glacier de Triolet. In my + dreams I glissade delightfully, but in practice I find that somehow + the snow will not behave properly, and that my alpenstock + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">will</span></span> get between my legs. Then my + legs go where my head should be, and I see the sky revolving at a + rapid pace; the snow rises up and smites me, and runs away; and when + it is at last overtaken it suddenly stops, and we come into violent + collision. Those who are with me say that I tumble head over heels, + and there may be some truth in what they say. Streaks of ice are apt + to make the heels shoot away, and stray stones cause one to pitch + headlong down. Somehow these things always seem to come in the way, + so it is as well to glissade only when there is something soft to + tumble into.<a id="noteref_201" name="noteref_201" href= + "#note_201"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">201</span></span></a></p><a name="fig76" + id="fig76" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus300.png" alt="Illustration: Glissading" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Near the + termination of the glacier we could not avoid traversing a portion of + its abominable moraine, but at 1.30 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> we were + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page258">[pg 258]</span><a name="Pg258" + id="Pg258" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>clear of it, and threw + ourselves upon some springy turf conscious that our day’s work was + over. An hour afterwards we resumed the march, crossed the Doire + torrent by a bridge a little below Gruetta, and at five o’clock + entered Courmayeur, having occupied somewhat less than ten hours on + the way. Mr. Girdlestone’s party came in, I believe, about four hours + afterwards, so there was no doubt that we made a shorter pass than + the Col du Géant; and I believe we discovered a quicker way of + getting from Chamounix to Courmayeur, or <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">vice + versa</span></span>, than will be found elsewhere, so long as the + chain of Mont Blanc remains in its present condition.<a id= + "noteref_202" name="noteref_202" href="#note_202"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">202</span></span></a></p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page259">[pg 259]</span><a name="Pg259" + id="Pg259" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc41" id= + "toc41"></a> <a name="pdf42" id="pdf42"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER XVIII.</span></h1> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE RUINETTE—THE + MATTERHORN.</span></h1> + + <div class="tei tei-epigraph" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 9.00em"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 0.90em"><span class="tei tei-q" + style="text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">In almost + every art, experience is worth more than + precepts.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span><br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Quintilian.</span></span></p> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">All of the + excursions that were set down in my programme had been carried out, + with the exception of the ascent of the Matterhorn, and we now turned + our faces in its direction, but instead of returning <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">viâ</span></span> the + Val Tournanche, we took a route across country, and bagged upon our + way the summit of the Ruinette.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We passed the + night of July 4, at Aosta, under the roof of the genial Tairraz, and + on the 5th went by the Val d’Ollomont and the Col de la Fenêtre + (9140) to Chermontane. We slept that night at the chalets of Chanrion + (a foul spot, which should be avoided), left them at 3.50 the next + morning, and after a short scramble over the slope above, and a + half-mile tramp on the glacier de Breney, we crossed directly to the + Ruinette, and went almost straight up it. There is not, I suppose, + another mountain in the Alps of the same height that can be ascended + so easily. You have only to go ahead: upon its southern side one can + walk about almost anywhere.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Though I speak + thus slightingly of a very respectable peak, I will not do anything + of the kind in regard to the view which it gives. It is happily + placed in respect to the rest of the Pennine Alps, and as a + stand-point it has not many superiors. You see mountains, and nothing + but mountains. It is a solemn—some would say a dreary—view, but it is + very grand. The great Combin (14,164), with its noble background of + the whole range of Mont <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page260">[pg + 260]</span><a name="Pg260" id="Pg260" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>Blanc, never looks so big as it does from here. + In the contrary direction, the Matterhorn overpowers all besides. The + Dent d’Hérens, although closer, looks a mere outlier of its great + neighbour, and the snows of Monte Rosa, behind, seem intended for no + other purpose than to give relief to the crags in front. To the south + there is an endless array of Bec’s and Becca’s, backed by the great + Italian peaks, whilst to the north Mont Pleureur (12,159) holds it + own against the more distant Wildstrubel.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We gained the + summit at 9.15,<a id="noteref_203" name="noteref_203" href= + "#note_203"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">203</span></span></a> and + stayed there an hour and a half. My faithful guides then admonished + me that Prerayen, whither we were bound, was still far away, and that + we had yet to cross two lofty ridges. So we resumed our harness and + departed; not, however, before a huge cairn had been built out of the + blocks of gneiss with which the summit is bestrewn. Then we trotted + down the slopes of the Ruinette, over the glacier de Breney, and + across a pass which (if it deserves a name) may be called the Col des + Portons, after the neighbouring peaks. Thence we proceeded across the + great Otemma glacier towards the Col d’Olen.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The part of the + glacier that we traversed was overspread with snow which completely + concealed its numerous pitfalls. We marched across it in single file, + and, of course, roped together. All at once Almer dropped into a + crevasse up to his shoulders. I pulled in the rope immediately, but + the snow gave way as it was being done, and I had to spread out my + arms to stop my descent. Biener held fast, and said afterwards, that + his feet went through as well; so, for a moment, all three were in + the jaws of the crevasse. We now altered our course, so as to take + the fissures transversely, and changed it again after the centre of + the glacier was passed, and made directly for the summit of the Col + d’Olen.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is scarcely + necessary to observe, after what I have said <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page261">[pg 261]</span><a name="Pg261" id="Pg261" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>before, that it is my invariable practice to + employ a rope when traversing a snow-covered glacier. Many guides, + even the best ones, object to be roped, more especially early in the + morning, when the snow is hard. They object sometimes, because they + think it is unnecessary. Crevasses that are bridged by snow are + almost always more or less perceptible by undulations on the surface; + the snow droops down, and hollows mark the courses of the chasms + beneath. An experienced guide usually notices these almost + imperceptible wrinkles, steps one side or the other, as the case may + require, and rarely breaks through unawares. Guides think there is no + occasion to employ a rope because they think that they will not be + taken by surprise. Michel Croz used to be of this opinion. He used to + say that only imbeciles and children required to be tied up in the + morning. I told him that in this particular matter I was a child to + him. <span class="tei tei-q">“You see these things, my good Croz, and + avoid them. I do <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">not</span></span>, except you point them out to + me, and so that which is not a danger to you, <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">is</span></span> a + danger to me.”</span> The sharper one’s eyes get by use, the less is + a rope required as a protective against these hidden pitfalls; but, + according to my experience, the sight never becomes so keen that they + can be avoided with unvarying certainty, and I mentioned what + occurred upon the Otemma glacier to show that this is so.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I well remember my + first passage of the Col Théodule—the easiest of the higher Alpine + glacier passes. We had a rope, but my guide said it was not + necessary, he knew all the crevasses. However, we did not go a + quarter of a mile before he dropped through the snow into a crevasse + up to his neck. He was a heavy man, and would scarcely have + extricated himself alone; anyhow, he was very glad of my assistance. + When he got on to his legs again, he said, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Well, I had no idea that there was a crevasse + there!”</span> He no longer objected to use the rope, and we + proceeded; upon my part, with greater peace of mind than before. I + have crossed the pass fourteen times since then, and have invariably + insisted upon being tied together.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page262">[pg 262]</span><a name="Pg262" id="Pg262" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Guides object to + the use of the rope upon snow-covered glacier, because they are + afraid of being laughed at by their comrades; and this, perhaps, is + the more common reason. To illustrate this, here is another Théodule + experience. We arrived at the edge of the ice, and I required to be + tied. My guide (a Zermatt man of repute) said that no one used a rope + going across that pass. I declined to argue the matter, and we put on + the rope; though very much against the wish of my man, who protested + that he should have to submit to perpetual ridicule if we met any of + his acquaintances. We had not gone very far before we saw a train + coming in the contrary direction. <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Ah!”</span> cried my man, <span class="tei tei-q">“there + is R—— (mentioning a guide who used to be kept at the Riffel Hotel + for the ascent of Monte Rosa); it will be as I said, I shall never + hear the end of this.”</span> The guide we met was followed by a + string of tom-fools, none of whom were tied together, and had his + face covered by a mask to prevent it becoming blistered. After we had + passed, I said, <span class="tei tei-q">“Now, should R—— make any + observations to you, ask him why he takes such extraordinary care to + preserve the skin of his face, which will grow again in a week, when + he neglects such an obvious precaution in regard to his life, which + he can only lose once.”</span> This was quite a new idea to my guide, + and he said nothing more against the use of the rope so long as we + were together.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I believe that the + unwillingness to use a rope upon snow-covered glacier which born + mountaineers not unfrequently exhibit, arises—First, on the part of + expert men, from the consciousness that they themselves incur little + risk; secondly, on the part of inferior men, from fear of ridicule, + and from aping the ways of their superiors; and, thirdly, from pure + ignorance or laziness. Whatever may be the reason, I raise up my + voice against the neglect of a precaution so simple and so effectual. + In my opinion, the very first thing a glacier traveller requires is + plenty of good rope.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A committee of the + English Alpine Club was appointed in 1864 to test, and to report + upon, the most suitable ropes for <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page263">[pg 263]</span><a name="Pg263" id="Pg263" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>mountaineering purposes, and those which were + approved are probably as good as can be found. One is made of Manilla + and another of Italian hemp. The former is the heavier, and weighs a + little more than an ounce per foot (103 ozs. to 100 feet). The latter + weighs 79 ozs. per 100 feet; but I prefer the Manilla rope, because + it is more handy to handle. Both of these ropes will sustain 168 lbs. + falling 10 feet, or 196 lbs. falling 8 feet, and they break with a + dead weight of two tons.<a id="noteref_204" name="noteref_204" href= + "#note_204"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">204</span></span></a> In 1865 + we carried two 100 feet lengths of the Manilla rope, and the + inconvenience arising from its weight was more than made up for by + the security which it afforded. Upon several occasions it was worth + more than an extra guide.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Now, touching the + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">use</span></span> of the rope. There is a right + way, and there are wrong ways of using it. I often meet, upon + glacier-passes, elegantly got-up persons, who are clearly out of + their element, with a guide stalking along in front, who pays no + attention to the innocents in his charge. They are tied together as a + matter of form, but they evidently have no idea <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">why</span></span> they + are tied up, for they walk side by side, or close together, with the + rope trailing on the snow. If one tumbles into a crevasse, the rest + stare, and say, <span class="tei tei-q">“La! what is the matter with + Smith?”</span> unless, as is more likely, they all tumble in + together. This is the wrong way to use a rope. It is abuse of the + rope.</p><a name="ill263" id="ill263" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + <a name="fig77" id="fig77" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus306.png" alt= + "Illustration: The wrong way to use a rope on glacier" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is of the first + importance to keep the rope taut from man to man. If this is not + done, there is no real security, and your risks may be considerably + magnified. There is little or no difficulty in extricating one man + who breaks through a bridged crevasse if the <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page264">[pg 264]</span><a name="Pg264" id="Pg264" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>rope is taut; but the case may be very awkward + if two break through at the same moment, close together, and there + are only two others to aid, or perhaps only one other. Further, the + rope ought not upon any account to graze over snow, ice, or rocks, + otherwise the strands suffer, and the lives of the whole party may be + endangered. Apart from this, it is extremely annoying to have a rope + knocking about one’s heels. If circumstances render it impossible for + the rope to be kept taut by itself, the men behind should gather it + up round their hands,<a id="noteref_205" name="noteref_205" href= + "#note_205"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">205</span></span></a> and not + allow it to incommode those in advance. A man must either be + incompetent, careless, or selfish, if he permits the rope to dangle + about the heels of the person in front of him.</p><a name="fig78" id= + "fig78" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus307.png" alt= + "Illustration: The right way to use a rope on glacier" title= + "THE RIGHT WAY TO USE THE ROPE." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE RIGHT WAY TO USE THE ROPE. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The distance from + man to man must neither be too great nor too small. About 12 feet + between each is sufficient. If there are only two or three persons, + it is prudent to allow a little more—say 15 feet. More than this is + unnecessary, and less than 9 or 10 feet is not much good.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is essential to + examine your rope from time to time to see that it is in good + condition. If you are wise you will do this yourself every day. + Latterly, I have examined every inch of my rope overnight, and upon + more than one occasion have found the strands of the Manilla rope + nearly half severed through accidental grazes.</p><span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page265">[pg 265]</span><a name="Pg265" id="Pg265" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Thus far the rope + has been supposed to be employed upon level, snow-covered glacier, to + prevent any risk from concealed crevasses. On rocks and on slopes it + is used for a different purpose (namely, to guard against slips), and + in these cases it is equally important to keep it taut, and to + preserve a reasonable distance one from the other. It is much more + troublesome to keep the rope taut upon slopes than upon the level; + and upon difficult rocks it is all but impossible, except by adopting + the plan of moving only one at a time (see p. 115).</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">There is no good + reason for employing a rope upon easy rocks, and I believe that its + needless use is likely to promote carelessness. On difficult rocks + and on snow-slopes (frequently improperly called ice-slopes) it is a + great advantage to be tied together, provided the rope is handled + properly; but upon actual ice-slopes, such as that on the Col Dolent + (<a href="#Pg240" class="tei tei-ref">p. 240</a>), or upon slopes in + which ice is mingled with small and loose rocks, such as the upper + part of the Pointe des Ecrins, it is almost useless, because a slip + made by one person might upset the entire party.<a id="noteref_206" + name="noteref_206" href="#note_206"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">206</span></span></a> I am + not prepared to say, however, that men should not be tied together + upon similar slopes. Being attached to others usually gives + confidence, and confidence decidedly assists stability. It is more + questionable whether men should be in such places at all. If a man + can keep on his feet upon an <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">escalier</span></span> cut in an ice-slope, I + see no reason why he should be <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page266">[pg 266]</span><a name="Pg266" id="Pg266" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>debarred from making use of that particular form + of staircase. If he cannot, let him keep clear of such places.<a id= + "noteref_207" name="noteref_207" href="#note_207"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">207</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">There would be no + advantage in discoursing upon the use of the rope at greater length. + A single day upon a mountain’s side will give a clearer idea of the + value of a good rope, and of the numerous purposes for which it may + be employed, than any one will obtain from reading all that has been + written upon the subject; but no one will become really expert in its + management without much experience.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">From the Col + d’Olen we proceeded down the Combe of the same name to the chalets of + Prerayen, and passed the night of the 6th under the roof of our old + acquaintance, the wealthy herdsman. On the 7th we crossed the Va + Cornère pass, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">en route</span></span> for Breil. My thoughts + were fixed on the Matterhorn, and my guides knew that I wished them + to accompany me. They had an aversion to the mountain, and repeatedly + expressed their belief that it was useless to try to ascend it. + <span class="tei tei-q">“<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Anything</span></span> but Matterhorn, dear + sir!”</span> said Almer; <span class="tei tei-q">“<span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">anything</span></span> + but Matterhorn.”</span> He did not speak of difficulty or of danger, + nor was he shirking <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">work</span></span>. He offered to go + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">anywhere</span></span>; but he entreated that + the Matterhorn should be abandoned. Both men spoke fairly enough. + They did not think that an ascent could be made; and for their own + credit, as well as for my sake, they did not wish to undertake a + business which, in their opinion, would only lead to loss of time and + money.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page267">[pg + 267]</span><a name="Pg267" id="Pg267" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I sent them by the + short cut to Breil, and walked down to Val Tournanche to look for + Jean-Antoine Carrel. He was not there. The villagers said that he, + and three others, had started on the 6th to try the Matterhorn by the + old way, on their own account. They will have no luck, I thought, for + the clouds were low down on the mountains; and I walked up to Breil, + fully expecting to meet them. Nor was I disappointed. About half-way + up I saw a group of men clustered around a chalet upon the other side + of the torrent, and, crossing over, found that the party had + returned. Jean-Antoine and Cæsar were there, C. E. Gorret, and J. J. + Maquignaz. They had had no success. The weather, they said, had been + horrible, and they had scarcely reached the glacier du Lion.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I explained the + situation to Carrel, and proposed that we, with Cæsar and another + man, should cross the Théodule by moonlight on the 9th, and that upon + the 10th we should pitch the tent as high as possible upon the east + face. He was unwilling to abandon the old route, and urged me to try + it again. I promised to do so provided the new route failed. This + satisfied him, and he agreed to my proposal. I then went up to Breil, + and discharged Almer and Biener—with much regret, for no two men ever + served me more faithfully or more willingly.<a id="noteref_208" name= + "noteref_208" href="#note_208"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">208</span></span></a> On the + next day they crossed to Zermatt.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The 8th was + occupied with preparations. The weather was stormy; and black, rainy + vapours obscured the mountains. Towards evening a young man came from + Val Tournanche, and reported that an Englishman was lying there, + extremely ill. Now was the time for the performance of my vow;<a id= + "noteref_209" name="noteref_209" href="#note_209"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">209</span></span></a> and on + the morning of Sunday the 9th I went down the valley to look after + the sick man. On my way I passed a foreign gentleman, with a mule and + several porters laden with baggage. Amongst these men were + Jean-<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page268">[pg 268]</span><a name= + "Pg268" id="Pg268" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>Antoine and Cæsar, + carrying some barometers. <span class="tei tei-q">“Hullo!”</span> I + said, <span class="tei tei-q">“what are you doing?”</span> They + explained that the foreigner had arrived just as they were setting + out, and that they were assisting his porters. <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Very well; go on to Breil, and await me there; we start + at midnight as agreed.”</span> Jean-Antoine then said that he should + not be able to serve me after Tuesday the 11th, as he was engaged to + travel <span class="tei tei-q">“with a family of distinction”</span> + in the valley of Aosta. <span class="tei tei-q">“And Cæsar?”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“And Cæsar also.”</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Why did you not say this before?”</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Because,”</span> said he, <span class="tei tei-q">“it + was not settled. The engagement is of long standing, but <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">the day</span></span> + was not fixed. When I got back to Val Tournanche on Friday night, + after leaving you, I found a letter naming the day.”</span> I could + not object to the answer; but the prospect of being left guideless + was provoking. They went up, and I down, the valley.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The sick man + declared that he was better, though the exertion of saying as much + tumbled him over on to the floor in a fainting fit. He was badly in + want of medicine, and I tramped down to Chatillon to get it. It was + late before I returned to Val Tournanche, for the weather was + tempestuous, and rain fell in torrents. A figure passed me under the + church porch. <span class="tei tei-q">“<span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Qui + vive?</span></span>”</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Jean-Antoine.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“I thought + you were at Breil.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“No, sir: when the + storms came on I knew we should not start to-night, and so came down + to sleep here.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Ha, Carrel!”</span> I + said; <span class="tei tei-q">“this is a great bore. If to-morrow is + not fine we shall not be able to do anything together. I have sent + away my guides, relying on you; and now you are going to leave me to + travel with a party of ladies. That work is not fit for <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">you</span></span> (he + smiled, I supposed at the implied compliment); can’t you send some + one else instead?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“No, monsieur. I am + sorry, but my word is pledged. I should like to accompany you, but I + can’t break my engagement.”</span> By this time we had arrived at the + inn door. <span class="tei tei-q">“Well, it is no fault of yours. + Come presently with Cæsar, and have some wine.”</span> They came, and + we sat up till midnight, recounting our old adventures, in the inn of + Val Tournanche.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page269">[pg + 269]</span><a name="Pg269" id="Pg269" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The weather + continued bad upon the 10th, and I returned to Breil. The two Carrels + were again hovering about the above mentioned chalet, and I bade them + adieu. In the evening the sick man crawled up, a good deal better; + but his was the only arrival. The Monday crowd<a id="noteref_210" + name="noteref_210" href="#note_210"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">210</span></span></a> did not + cross the Théodule, on account of the continued storms. The inn was + lonely. I went to bed early, and was awoke the next morning by the + invalid inquiring if I had <span class="tei tei-q">“heard the + news.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“No; what news?”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“Why,”</span> said he, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“a large party of guides went off this morning to try the + Matterhorn, taking with them a mule laden with + provisions.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I went to the + door, and with a telescope saw the party upon the lower slopes of the + mountain. Favre, the landlord, stood by. <span class= + "tei tei-q">“What is all this about?”</span> I inquired, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“who is the leader of this party?”</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Carrel.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“What! + Jean-Antoine?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Yes; + Jean-Antoine.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Is Cæsar there + too?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Yes, he is there.”</span> Then + I saw in a moment that I had been bamboozled and humbugged; and + learned, bit by bit, that the affair had been arranged long + beforehand. The start on the 6th had been for a preliminary + reconnaissance; the mule, that I passed, was conveying stores for the + attack; the <span class="tei tei-q">“family of distinction”</span> + was Signor F. Giordano, who had just despatched the party to + facilitate the way to the summit, and who, when the facilitation was + completed, was to be taken to the top along with Signor Sella!<a id= + "noteref_211" name="noteref_211" href="#note_211"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">211</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I was greatly + mortified. My plans were upset; the Italians had clearly stolen a + march upon me, and I saw that the astute Favre chuckled over my + discomfiture, because the route by the eastern face, if successful, + would not benefit his inn. What was to be done? I retired to my room, + and soothed by tobacco, re-studied my plans, to see if it was not + possible to outmanœuvre the Italians.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“They have taken a mule’s load of provisions.”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“<a name="corr269" id="corr269" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr">That</span> is + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">one</span></span> point <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page270">[pg 270]</span><a name="Pg270" id="Pg270" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>in my favour, for they will take two or three + days to get through the food, and, until that is done, no work will + be accomplished.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“How is the + weather?”</span> I went to the window. The mountain was smothered up + in mist. <span class="tei tei-q">“Another point in my favour.”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“They are to facilitate the way. Well, if + they do that to any purpose, it will be a long job.”</span> + Altogether, I reckoned that they could not possibly ascend the + mountain and come back to Breil in less than seven days. I got + cooler, for it was evident that the wily ones might be outwitted + after all. There was time enough to go to Zermatt, to try the eastern + face, and, should it prove impracticable, to come back to Breil + before the men returned; and then, it seemed to me, as the mountain + was not padlocked, one might start at the same time as the Messieurs, + and yet get to the top before them.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The first thing to + do was to go to Zermatt. Easier said than done. The seven guides upon + the mountain included the ablest men in the valley, and none of the + ordinary muleteer-guides were at Breil. Two men, at least, were + wanted for my baggage, but not a soul could be found. I ran about, + and sent about in all directions, but not a single porter could be + obtained. One was with Carrel; another was ill; another was at + Chatillon, and so forth. Even Meynet, the hunchback, could not be + induced to come; he was in the thick of some important cheese-making + operations. I was in the position of a general without an army; it + was all very well to make plans, but there was no one to execute + them. This did not much trouble me, for it was evident that so long + as the weather stopped traffic over the Théodule pass, it would + hinder the men equally upon the Matterhorn; and I knew that directly + it improved company would certainly arrive.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">About midday on + Tuesday the 11th a large party hove in sight from Zermatt, preceded + by a nimble young Englishman, and one of old Peter Taugwalder’s + sons.<a id="noteref_212" name="noteref_212" href= + "#note_212"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">212</span></span></a> I went + at once to this gentleman to learn if he could dispense with + Taugwalder. He said that he <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page271">[pg + 271]</span><a name="Pg271" id="Pg271" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>could not, as they were going to recross to + Zermatt on the morrow, but that the young man should assist in + transporting my baggage, as he had nothing to carry. We naturally got + into conversation. I told my story, and learned that the young + Englishman was Lord Francis Douglas,<a id="noteref_213" name= + "noteref_213" href="#note_213"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">213</span></span></a> whose + recent exploit—the ascent of the Gabelhorn—had excited my wonder and + admiration. He brought good news. Old Peter had lately been beyond + the Hörnli, and had reported that he thought an ascent of the + Matterhorn was possible upon that side. Almer had left Zermatt, and + could not be recovered, so I determined to seek for old Peter. Lord + Francis Douglas expressed a warm desire to ascend the mountain, and + before long it was determined that he should take part in the + expedition.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Favre could no + longer hinder our departure, and lent us one of his men. We crossed + the Col Théodule on Wednesday morning the 12th of July, rounded the + foot of the Ober Théodulgletscher, crossed the Furggengletscher, and + deposited tent, blankets, ropes, and other matters in the little + chapel at the Schwarzsee.<a id="noteref_214" name="noteref_214" href= + "#note_214"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">214</span></span></a> All + four were heavily laden, for we brought across the whole of my stores + from Breil. Of rope alone there was about 600 feet. There were three + kinds. First, 200 feet of the Manilla rope; second, 150 feet of a + stouter, and probably stronger rope than the first; and third, more + than 200 feet of a lighter and weaker rope than the first, of a kind + that I used formerly (stout sash-line).</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We descended to + Zermatt, sought and engaged old Peter, and gave him permission to + choose another guide. When we returned to the Monte Rosa Hotel, whom + should we see sitting upon the wall in front but my old <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">guide + chef</span></span>, Michel Croz. I supposed that he had come with Mr. + B——, but I learned that that gentleman had arrived in ill health, at + Chamounix, and had returned to England. Croz, thus left free, had + been immediately engaged by the Rev. Charles Hudson, and they had + come to Zermatt with the <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page272">[pg + 272]</span><a name="Pg272" id="Pg272" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>same + object as ourselves—namely, to attempt the ascent of the + Matterhorn!</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Lord Francis + Douglas and I dined at the Monte Rosa, and had just finished when Mr. + Hudson and a friend entered the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">salle à manger</span></span>. They had returned + from inspecting the mountain, and some idlers in the room demanded + their intentions. We heard a confirmation of Croz’s statement, and + learned that Mr. Hudson intended to set out on the morrow at the same + hour as ourselves. We left the room to consult, and agreed it was + undesirable that two independent parties should be on the mountain at + the same time with the same object. Mr. Hudson was therefore invited + to join us, and he accepted our proposal. Before admitting his + friend—Mr. Hadow—I took the precaution to inquire what he had done in + the Alps, and, as well as I remember, Mr. Hudson’s reply was, + <span class="tei tei-q">“Mr. Hadow has done Mont Blanc in less time + than most men.”</span> He then mentioned several other excursions + that were unknown to me, and added, in answer to a further question, + <span class="tei tei-q">“I consider he is a sufficiently good man to + go with us.”</span> Mr. Hadow was admitted without any further + question, and we then went into the matter of guides. Hudson thought + that Croz and old Peter would be sufficient. The question was + referred to the men themselves, and they made no objection.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">So Croz and I + became comrades once more; and as I threw myself on my bed and tried + to go to sleep, I wondered at the strange series of chances which had + first separated us and then brought us together again. I thought of + the mistake through which he had accepted the engagement to Mr. B——; + of his unwillingness to adopt my route; of his recommendation to + transfer our energies to the chain of Mont Blanc; of the retirement + of Almer and Biener; of the desertion of Carrel; of the arrival of + Lord Francis Douglas; and, lastly, of our meeting at Zermatt; and as + I pondered over these things I could not help asking, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“What next?”</span> If any one of the links of this fatal + chain of circumstances had been omitted, what a different story I + should have to tell!</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page273">[pg 273]</span><a name="Pg273" + id="Pg273" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc43" id= + "toc43"></a> <a name="pdf44" id="pdf44"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER XIX.</span></h1> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE + MATTERHORN.</span></h1> + + <div class="tei tei-epigraph" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 9.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-lg" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 0.90em; margin-left: 1.80em; margin-top: 0.90em"> + <div class="tei tei-l" style= + "text-align: left; margin-left: 9.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Had we + succeeded well,</span></span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span style="font-size: 90%">We had been reckoned ’mongst the + wise: our minds</span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">Are so disposed to judge from the + event.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: right"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Euripides.</span></span> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: right; margin-bottom: 0.90em"><span class="tei tei-q" + style="text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">It is a + thoroughly unfair, but an ordinary custom, to praise or blame + designs (which in themselves may be good or bad) just as they turn + out well or ill. Hence the same actions are at one time attributed + to earnestness and at another to vanity.</span><span style= + "font-size: 90%">”</span></span><br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: right"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps">Pliny + Min.</span></span></p> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We started from + Zermatt on the 13th of July, at half-past 5, on a brilliant and + perfectly cloudless morning. We were eight in number—Croz, old Peter + and his two sons,<a id="noteref_215" name="noteref_215" href= + "#note_215"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">215</span></span></a> Lord F. + Douglas, Hadow, Hudson,<a id="noteref_216" name="noteref_216" href= + "#note_216"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">216</span></span></a> and I. + To ensure steady motion, one tourist <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page274">[pg 274]</span><a name="Pg274" id="Pg274" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>and one native walked together. The youngest + Taugwalder fell to my share, and the lad marched well, proud to be on + the expedition, and happy to show his powers. The wine-bags also fell + to my lot to carry, and throughout the day, after each drink, I + replenished them secretly with water, so that at the next halt they + were found fuller than before! This was considered a good omen, and + little short of miraculous.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On the first day + we did not intend to ascend to any great height, and we mounted, + accordingly, very leisurely; picked up the things which were left in + the chapel at the Schwarzsee at 8.20, and proceeded thence along the + ridge connecting the Hörnli with the Matterhorn.<a id="noteref_217" + name="noteref_217" href="#note_217"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">217</span></span></a> At + half-past 11 we arrived at the base of the actual peak; then quitted + the ridge, and clambered round <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page275">[pg 275]</span><a name="Pg275" id="Pg275" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>some ledges, on to the eastern face. We were now + fairly upon the mountain, and were astonished to find that places + which from the Riffel, or even from the Furggengletscher, looked + entirely impracticable, were so easy that we could <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">run + about</span></span>.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Before twelve + o’clock we had found a good position for the tent, at a height of + 11,000 feet.<a id="noteref_218" name="noteref_218" href= + "#note_218"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">218</span></span></a> Croz + and young Peter went on to see what was above, in order to save time + on the following morning. They cut across the heads of the + snow-slopes which descended towards the Furggengletscher, and + disappeared round a corner; and shortly afterwards we saw them high + up on the face, moving quickly. We others made a solid platform for + the tent in a well-protected spot, and then watched eagerly for the + return of the men. The stones which they upset told that they were + very high, and we supposed that the way must be easy. At length, just + before 3 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span>, we saw them coming down, + evidently much excited. <span class="tei tei-q">“What are they + saying, Peter?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Gentlemen, they say + it is no good.”</span> But when they came near we heard a different + story. <span class="tei tei-q">“Nothing but what was good; not a + difficulty, not a single difficulty! We could have gone to the summit + and returned to-day easily!”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We passed the + remaining hours of daylight—some basking in the sunshine, some + sketching or collecting; and when the sun went down, giving, as it + departed, a glorious promise for the morrow, we returned to the tent + to arrange for the night. Hudson made tea, I coffee, and we then + retired each one to his blanket-bag; the Taugwalders, Lord Francis + Douglas, and myself, occupying the tent, the <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page276">[pg 276]</span><a name="Pg276" id="Pg276" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>others remaining, by preference, outside. Long + after dusk the cliffs above echoed with our laughter and with the + songs of the guides, for we were happy that night in camp, and feared + no evil.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We assembled + together outside the tent before dawn on the morning of the 14th, and + started directly it was light enough to move. Young Peter came on + with us as a guide, and his brother returned to Zermatt.<a id= + "noteref_219" name="noteref_219" href="#note_219"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">219</span></span></a> We + followed the route which had been taken on the previous day, and in a + few minutes turned the rib which had intercepted the view of the + eastern face from our tent platform. The whole of this great slope + was now revealed, rising for 3000 feet like a huge natural + staircase.<a id="noteref_220" name="noteref_220" href= + "#note_220"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">220</span></span></a> Some + parts were more, and others were less, easy; but we were not once + brought to a halt by any serious impediment, for when an obstruction + was met in front it could always be turned to the right or to the + left. For the greater part of the way there was, indeed, no occasion + for the rope, and sometimes Hudson led, sometimes myself. At 6.20 we + had attained a height of 12,800 feet, and halted for half-an-hour; we + then continued the ascent without a break until 9.55, when we stopped + for 50 minutes, at a height of 14,000 feet. Twice we struck the N.E. + ridge, and followed it for some little distance,<a id="noteref_221" + name="noteref_221" href="#note_221"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">221</span></span></a>—to no + advantage, for it was usually more rotten and steep, and always more + difficult than the face.<a id="noteref_222" name="noteref_222" href= + "#note_222"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">222</span></span></a> Still, + we kept near to it, lest stones perchance might fall.<a id= + "noteref_223" name="noteref_223" href="#note_223"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">223</span></span></a></p><span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page277">[pg 277]</span><a name="Pg277" id="Pg277" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We had now arrived + at the foot of that part which, from the Riffelberg or from Zermatt, + seems perpendicular or overhanging, and could no longer continue upon + the eastern side. For a little distance we ascended by snow upon the + arête<a id="noteref_224" name="noteref_224" href= + "#note_224"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">224</span></span></a>—that + is, the ridge—descending towards Zermatt, and then, by common + consent, turned over to the right, or to the northern side. Before + doing so, we made a change in the order of ascent. Croz went first, I + followed, Hudson came third; Hadow and old Peter were last. + <span class="tei tei-q">“Now,”</span> said Croz, as he led off, + <span class="tei tei-q">“now for something altogether + different.”</span> The work became difficult, and required caution. + In some places there was little to hold, and it was desirable that + those should be in front who were least likely to slip. The general + slope of the mountain at this part was <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">less</span></span> than + 40°, and snow had accumulated in, and had filled up, the interstices + of the rock-face, leaving only occasional fragments projecting here + and there. These were at times covered with a thin film of ice, + produced from the melting and refreezing of the snow. It was the + counterpart, on a small scale, of the upper 700 feet of the Pointe + des Ecrins,—only there was this material difference; the face of the + Ecrins was about, or exceeded, an angle of 50°, and the Matterhorn + face was less than 40°.<a id="noteref_225" name="noteref_225" href= + "#note_225"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">225</span></span></a> It was + a place over which <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page278">[pg + 278]</span><a name="Pg278" id="Pg278" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>any + fair mountaineer might pass in safety, and Mr. Hudson ascended this + part, and, as far as I know, the entire mountain, without having the + slightest assistance rendered to him upon any occasion. Sometimes, + after I had taken a hand from Croz, or received a pull, I turned to + offer the same to Hudson; but he invariably declined, saying it was + not necessary. Mr. Hadow, however, was not accustomed to this kind of + work, and required continual assistance. It is only fair to say that + the difficulty which he found at this part arose simply and entirely + from want of experience.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This solitary + difficult part was of no great extent.<a id="noteref_226" name= + "noteref_226" href="#note_226"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">226</span></span></a> We bore + away over it at first, nearly horizontally, for a distance of about + 400 feet; then ascended directly towards the summit for about 60 + feet; and then doubled back to the ridge which descends towards + Zermatt. A long stride round a rather awkward corner brought us to + snow once more. The last doubt vanished! The Matterhorn was ours! + Nothing but 200 feet of easy snow remained to be surmounted!</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">You must now carry + your thoughts back to the seven Italians who started from Breil on + the 11th of July. Four days had passed since their departure, and we + were tormented with anxiety lest they should arrive on the top before + us. All the way up we had talked of them, and many false alarms of + <span class="tei tei-q">“men on the summit”</span> had been raised. + The higher we rose, the more intense became the excitement. What if + we should be beaten at the last moment? The slope eased off, at + length we could be detached, and Croz and I, dashing away, ran a + neck-and-neck race, which ended in a dead heat. At 1.40 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> the + world was at our feet, and the Matterhorn was conquered. Hurrah! Not + a footstep could be seen.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was not yet + certain that we had not been beaten. The summit of the Matterhorn was + formed of a rudely level ridge, <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page279">[pg 279]</span><a name="Pg279" id="Pg279" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>about 350 feet long,<a id="noteref_227" name= + "noteref_227" href="#note_227"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">227</span></span></a> and the + Italians might have been at its farther extremity. I hastened to the + southern end, scanning the snow right and left eagerly. Hurrah! + again; it was untrodden. <span class="tei tei-q">“Where were the + men?”</span> I peered over the cliff, half doubting, half expectant. + I saw them immediately—mere dots on the ridge, at an immense distance + below. Up went my arms and my hat. <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page280">[pg 280]</span><a name="Pg280" id="Pg280" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-q">“Croz! Croz!! come + here!”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Where are they, + Monsieur?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“There, don’t you see them, + down there?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Ah! the <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">coquins</span></span>, + they are low down.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Croz, we must + make those fellows hear us.”</span> We yelled until we were hoarse. + The Italians seemed to regard us—we could not be certain. + <span class="tei tei-q">“Croz, we <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">must</span></span> make + them hear us; they <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">shall</span></span> hear us!”</span> I seized a + block of rock and hurled it down, and called upon my companion, in + the name of friendship, to do the same. We drove our sticks in, and + prized away the crags, and soon a torrent of stones poured down the + cliffs. There was no mistake about it this time. The Italians turned + and fled.<a id="noteref_228" name="noteref_228" href= + "#note_228"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">228</span></span></a></p><a name="fig79" + id="fig79" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus322.png" alt= + "Illustration: Croz! Croz!! Come Here!" title= + "“CROZ! CROZ!! COME HERE!”" /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: center">“CROZ! CROZ!! + COME HERE!”</span> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Still, I would + that the leader of that party could have stood with us at that + moment, for our victorious shouts conveyed to him the disappointment + of the ambition of a lifetime. He was <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">the</span></span> man, + of all those who attempted the ascent of the Matterhorn, who most + deserved to be the first upon its summit. He was the first to doubt + its inaccessibility, and he was the only man who persisted in + believing that its ascent would be accomplished. It was the aim of + his life to make the ascent from the side of Italy, for the honour of + his native valley. For a time he had the game in his hands: he played + it as he thought best; but he made a false move, and he lost it. + Times have changed with Carrel. His supremacy is questioned in the + Val Tournanche; new men have arisen; and he is no longer recognised + as <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">the</span></span> chasseur above all others: + though so long as he remains the man that he is to-day, it will not + be easy to find his superior.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The others had + arrived, so we went back to the northern end of the ridge. Croz now + took the tent-pole,<a id="noteref_229" name="noteref_229" href= + "#note_229"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">229</span></span></a> and + planted it in the highest snow. <span class="tei tei-q">“Yes,”</span> + we said, <span class="tei tei-q">“there is the flag-staff, but where + is the flag?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Here it is,”</span> he + answered, pulling off his blouse <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page281">[pg 281]</span><a name="Pg281" id="Pg281" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>and fixing it to the stick. It made a poor flag, + and there was no wind to float it out, yet it was seen all around. + They saw it at Zermatt—at the Riffel—in the Val Tournanche. At Breil, + the watchers cried, <span class="tei tei-q">“Victory is ours!”</span> + They raised <span class="tei tei-q">“bravos”</span> for Carrel, and + <span class="tei tei-q">“vivas”</span> for Italy, and hastened to put + themselves <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">en fête</span></span>. On the morrow they were + undeceived. <span class="tei tei-q">“All was changed; the explorers + returned sad—cast down—disheartened—confounded—gloomy.”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“It is true,”</span> said the men. + <span class="tei tei-q">“We saw them ourselves—they hurled stones at + us! The old traditions <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">are</span></span> true,—there are spirits on the + top of the Matterhorn!”</span><a id="noteref_230" name="noteref_230" + href="#note_230"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">230</span></span></a></p><a name="fig80" + id="fig80" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus324.png" alt= + "Illustration: The summit of the Matterhorn in 1865 (Northern end)" + title="THE SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1865 (NORTHERN END)." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1865 (NORTHERN END). + </div> + </div><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page282">[pg 282]</span><a name= + "Pg282" id="Pg282" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We returned to the + southern end of the ridge to build a cairn, and then paid homage to + the view.<a id="noteref_231" name="noteref_231" href= + "#note_231"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">231</span></span></a> The day + was one of those superlatively calm and clear ones which usually + precede bad weather. The atmosphere was perfectly still, and free + from all clouds or vapours. Mountains fifty—nay a hundred—miles off, + looked sharp and near. All their details—ridge and crag, snow and + glacier—stood out with faultless definition. Pleasant thoughts of + happy days in bygone years came up unbidden, as we recognised the + old, familiar forms. All were revealed—not one of the + prin<span class="tei tei-pb" id="page283">[pg 283]</span><a name= + "Pg283" id="Pg283" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>cipal peaks of the Alps + was hidden.<a id="noteref_232" name="noteref_232" href= + "#note_232"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">232</span></span></a> I see + them clearly now—the great inner circles of giants, backed by the + ranges, chains, and <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">massifs</span></span>. First came the Dent + Blanche, hoary and grand; the Gabelhorn and pointed Rothhorn; and + then the peerless Weisshorn: the towering Mischabelhörner, flanked by + the Allaleinhorn, Strahlhorn, and Rimpfischhorn; then Monte Rosa—with + its many Spitzes—the Lyskamm and the Breithorn. Behind was the + Bernese Oberland governed by the Finsteraarhorn, and then the Simplon + and St. Gothard groups; the Disgrazia and the Orteler. Towards the + south we looked down to Chivasso on the plain of Piedmont, and far + beyond. The Viso—one hundred miles away—seemed close upon us; the + Maritime Alps—one hundred and thirty miles distant—were free from + haze. Then came my first love—the Pelvoux; the Ecrins and the Meije; + the clusters of the Graians; and lastly, in the west, gorgeous in the + full sunlight, rose the monarch of all—Mont Blanc. Ten thousand feet + beneath us were the green fields of Zermatt, dotted with chalets, + from which blue smoke rose lazily. Eight thousand feet below, on the + other side, were the pastures of Breil. There were black and gloomy + forests, bright and cheerful meadows; bounding waterfalls and + tranquil lakes; fertile lands and savage wastes; sunny plains and + frigid <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">plateaux</span></span>. There were the most + rugged forms, and the most graceful outlines—bold, perpendicular + cliffs, and gentle, undulating slopes; rocky mountains and snowy + mountains, sombre and solemn, or glittering and white, with + walls—turrets—pinnacles—pyramids—domes—cones—and spires! There was + every combination that the world can give, and every contrast that + the heart could desire.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We remained on the + summit for one hour—</p> + + <div class="tei tei-lg" style= + "margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left">“One crowded + hour of glorious life.”</span> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It passed away too + quickly, and we began to prepare for the descent.</p><span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page284">[pg 284]</span><a name="Pg284" id="Pg284" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a><a name="fig81" id="fig81" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + <hr class="page" /> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus327.png" alt= + "Illustration: The actual summit of the Matterhorn in 1865" title= + "THE ACTUAL SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1865." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE ACTUAL SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1865. + </div> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <a name="toc45" id="toc45"></a> <a name="pdf46" id="pdf46"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">CHAPTER XX.</span></h1> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">DESCENT OF THE MATTERHORN.</span><a id= + "noteref_233" name="noteref_233" href="#note_233"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">233</span></span></a></h1> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Hudson and I again + consulted as to the best and safest arrangement of the party. We + agreed that it would be best for Croz to go first,<a id="noteref_234" + name="noteref_234" href="#note_234"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">234</span></span></a> and + Hadow second; Hudson, who was almost equal to a guide in sureness of + foot, wished to be third; Lord F. Douglas was placed next, and old + Peter, the strongest of the remainder, after him. I suggested to + Hudson that we should attach a rope to the rocks on our arrival at + the difficult bit, and hold it as we descended, as an additional + protection. He approved the idea, but it was not definitely settled + that it should be done. The party was being <span class="tei tei-pb" + id="page285">[pg 285]</span><a name="Pg285" id="Pg285" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>arranged in the above order whilst I was + sketching the summit, and they had finished, and were waiting for me + to be tied in line, when some one remembered that our names had not + been left in a bottle. They requested me to write them down, and + moved off while it was being done.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A few minutes + afterwards I tied myself to young Peter, ran down after the others, + and caught them just as they were commencing the descent of the + difficult part.<a id="noteref_235" name="noteref_235" href= + "#note_235"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">235</span></span></a> Great + care was being taken. Only one man was moving at a time; when he was + firmly planted the next advanced, and so on. They had not, however, + attached the additional rope to rocks, and nothing was said about it. + The suggestion was not made for my own sake, and I am not sure that + it even occurred to me again. For some little distance we two + followed the others, detached from them, and should have continued so + had not Lord F. Douglas asked me, about 3 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span>, to tie + on to old Peter, as he feared, he said, that Taugwalder would not be + able to hold his ground if a slip occurred.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A few minutes + later, a sharp-eyed lad ran into the Monte Rosa hotel, to Seiler, + saying that he had seen an avalanche fall from the summit of the + Matterhorn on to the Matterhorngletscher. The boy was reproved for + telling idle stories; he was right, nevertheless, and this was what + he saw.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Michel Croz had + laid aside his axe, and in order to give Mr. Hadow greater security, + was absolutely taking hold of his legs, and putting his feet, one by + one, into their proper positions.<a id="noteref_236" name= + "noteref_236" href="#note_236"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">236</span></span></a> As far + as I know, no one was actually descending. I cannot speak with + certainty, because the two leading men were partially hidden from my + sight by an intervening mass of rock, but it is my belief, from + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page286">[pg 286]</span><a name="Pg286" + id="Pg286" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>the movements of their + shoulders, that Croz, having done as I have said, was in the act of + turning round to go down a step or two himself; at this moment Mr. + Hadow slipped, fell against him, and knocked him over. I heard one + startled exclamation from Croz, then saw him and Mr. Hadow flying + downwards; in another moment Hudson was dragged from his steps, and + Lord F. Douglas immediately after him.<a id="noteref_237" name= + "noteref_237" href="#note_237"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">237</span></span></a> All + this was the work of a moment. Immediately we heard Croz’s + exclamation, old Peter and I planted ourselves as firmly as the rocks + would permit:<a id="noteref_238" name="noteref_238" href= + "#note_238"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">238</span></span></a> the + rope was taut between us, and the jerk came on us both as on one man. + We held; but the rope broke midway between Taugwalder and Lord + Francis Douglas. For a few seconds we saw our unfortunate companions + sliding downwards on their backs, and spreading out their + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page287">[pg 287]</span><a name="Pg287" + id="Pg287" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>hands, endeavouring to save + themselves. They passed from our sight uninjured, disappeared one by + one, and fell from precipice to precipice on to the + Matterhorngletscher below, a distance of nearly 4000 feet in height. + From the moment the rope broke it was impossible to help + them.</p><a name="fig82" id="fig82" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus330.png" alt= + "Illustration: Rope broken on the Matterhorn" title= + "ROPE BROKEN ON THE MATTERHORN." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + ROPE BROKEN ON THE MATTERHORN. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">So perished our + comrades! For the space of half-an-hour we remained on the spot + without moving a single step. The two men, paralysed by terror, cried + like infants, and trembled in such a manner as to threaten us with + the fate of the others. Old Peter rent the air with exclamations of + <span class="tei tei-q">“Chamounix! Oh, what will Chamounix + say?”</span> He meant, Who would believe that Croz could fall? The + young man did nothing but scream or sob, <span class="tei tei-q">“We + are lost! we are lost!”</span> Fixed between the two, I could neither + move up nor down. I begged young Peter to descend, but he dared not. + Unless he did, we could not advance. Old Peter became alive to the + danger, and swelled the cry, <span class="tei tei-q">“We are lost! we + are lost!”</span> The father’s fear was natural—he trembled for his + son; the young man’s fear was cowardly—he thought of self alone. At + last old Peter summoned up courage, and changed his position to a + rock to which he could fix the rope; the young man then descended, + and we all stood together. Immediately we did so, I asked for the + rope which had given way, and found, to my surprise—indeed, to my + horror—that it was the weakest of the three ropes. It was not + brought, and should not have been employed, for the purpose for which + it was used. It was old rope, and, compared with the others, was + feeble. It was <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page288">[pg + 288]</span><a name="Pg288" id="Pg288" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>intended as a reserve, in case we had to leave + much rope behind, attached to rocks. I saw at once that a serious + question was involved, and made him give me the end. It had broken in + mid-air, and it did not appear to have sustained previous injury.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">For more than two + hours afterwards I thought almost every moment that the next would be + my last; for the Taugwalders, utterly unnerved, were not only + incapable of giving assistance, but were in such a state that a slip + might have been expected from them at any moment. After a time we + were able to do that which should have been done at first, and fixed + rope to firm rocks, in addition to being tied together. These ropes + were cut from time to time, and were left behind.<a id="noteref_239" + name="noteref_239" href="#note_239"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">239</span></span></a> Even + with their assurance the men were sometimes afraid to proceed, and + several times old Peter turned with ashy face and faltering limbs, + and said, with terrible emphasis, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">I cannot!</span></span>”</span></p><a name= + "plate12" id="plate12" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus332.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: Fog-bow, seen from the Matterhorn on July 14, 1865" + title= + "FOG-BOW SEEN FROM THE MATTERHORN ON JULY 14, 1865. “THE TAUGWALDERS THOUGHT THAT IT HAD SOME CONNECTION WITH THE ACCIDENT”" /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + FOG-BOW SEEN FROM THE MATTERHORN ON JULY 14, 1865.<br /> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: center">“THE + TAUGWALDERS THOUGHT THAT IT HAD SOME CONNECTION WITH THE + ACCIDENT”</span> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">About 6 + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> we arrived at the snow upon the + ridge descending towards Zermatt, and all peril was over. We + frequently looked, but in vain, for traces of our unfortunate + companions; we bent over the ridge and cried to them, but no sound + returned. Convinced at last that they were neither within sight nor + hearing, we ceased from our useless efforts; and, too cast down for + speech, silently gathered up our things, and the little effects of + those who were lost, preparatory to continuing the descent. When, lo! + a mighty arch appeared, rising above the Lyskamm, high into the sky. + Pale, colourless, and noiseless, but perfectly sharp and defined, + except where it was lost in the clouds, this unearthly apparition + seemed like a vision from another world; and, almost appalled, we + watched with amazement the gradual development of two vast crosses, + one on either side. If the Taugwalders had not been the first to + perceive it, I should have doubted my senses. They thought it had + some connection with the accident, and I, after a while, that it + might bear some relation to ourselves. But our <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page289">[pg 289]</span><a name="Pg289" id="Pg289" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>movements had no effect upon it. The + spectral forms remained motionless. It was a fearful and wonderful + sight; unique in my experience, and impressive beyond description, + coming at such a moment.<a id="noteref_240" name="noteref_240" href= + "#note_240"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">240</span></span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I was ready to + leave, and waiting for the others. They had recovered their appetites + and the use of their tongues. They spoke in patois, which I did not + understand. At length the son <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page290">[pg 290]</span><a name="Pg290" id="Pg290" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>said in French, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Monsieur.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Yes.”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“We are poor men; we have lost our Herr; we + shall not get paid; we can ill afford this.”</span><a id= + "noteref_241" name="noteref_241" href="#note_241"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">241</span></span></a> + <span class="tei tei-q">“Stop!”</span> I said, interrupting him, + <span class="tei tei-q">“that is nonsense; I shall pay you, of + course, just as if your Herr were here.”</span> They talked together + in their patois for a short time, and then the son spoke again. + <span class="tei tei-q">“We don’t wish you to pay us. We wish you to + write in the hotel-book at Zermatt, and to your journals, that we + have not been paid.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“What nonsense + are you talking? I don’t understand you. What do you mean?”</span> He + proceeded—<span class="tei tei-q">“Why, next year there will be many + travellers at Zermatt, and we shall get more <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">voyageurs</span></span>.”</span><a id= + "noteref_242" name="noteref_242" href="#note_242"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">242</span></span></a></p><a name="fig84" + id="fig84" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus335.png" alt= + "Illustration: Portrait of Monsieur Alex. Seiler" title= + "MONSIEUR ALEX. SEILER." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + MONSIEUR ALEX. SEILER. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Who would answer + such a proposition? I made them no reply in words,<a id="noteref_243" + name="noteref_243" href="#note_243"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">243</span></span></a> but + they knew very well the indignation that I felt. They filled the cup + of bitterness to overflowing, and I tore down the cliff, madly and + recklessly, in a way that caused them, more than once, to inquire if + I wished to kill them. Night fell; and for an hour the descent was + continued in the darkness. At half-past 9 a resting-place was found, + and upon a wretched slab, barely large enough to hold the three, we + passed six miserable hours. At daybreak the descent was resumed, and + from the Hörnli ridge we ran down to the chalets of Buhl, and on to + Zermatt. Seiler met me at his door, and followed in silence to my + room. <span class="tei tei-q">“What is the matter?”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“The Taugwalders and I have returned.”</span> + He did not need more, and burst into tears; but lost no time in + useless lamentations, and set to work to arouse the village. Ere long + a score of men had started <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page291">[pg + 291]</span><a name="Pg291" id="Pg291" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>to + ascend the Hohlicht heights, above Kalbermatt and Z’Mutt, which + commanded the plateau of the Matterhorngletscher. They returned after + six hours, and reported that they had seen the bodies lying + motionless on the snow. This was on Saturday; and they proposed that + we should leave on Sunday evening, so as to arrive upon the plateau + at daybreak on Monday. Unwilling to lose the slightest chance, the + Rev. J. M’Cormick and I resolved to start on Sunday morning. The + Zermatt men, threatened with excommunication by their priests if they + failed to attend the early mass, were unable to accompany us. To + several of them, at least, this was a severe trial. Peter Perrn + declared with tears that nothing else would have prevented him from + joining in the search for his old comrades. Englishmen came to our + aid. The Rev. J. Robertson and Mr. J. Phillpotts offered themselves, + and their guide Franz Andermatten;<a id="noteref_244" name= + "noteref_244" href="#note_244"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">244</span></span></a> another + Englishman lent us Joseph Marie and Alexandre Lochmatter. Frédéric + Payot and Jean Tairraz, of Chamounix, also volunteered.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We started at 2 + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> on Sunday the 16th, and followed + the route that we had taken on the previous Thursday as far as the + Hörnli. From thence we went down to the right of the ridge,<a id= + "noteref_245" name="noteref_245" href="#note_245"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">245</span></span></a> and + mounted through the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">séracs</span></span> of the Matterhorngletscher. + By 8.30 we had got to the plateau at the top of the glacier, and + within sight of the corner in which we knew my companions must + be.<a id="noteref_246" name="noteref_246" href= + "#note_246"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">246</span></span></a> As we + saw one weather-beaten man after another raise the telescope, turn + deadly pale, and pass it on without a word to the next, we knew that + all hope was gone. We approached. They had fallen below as they had + fallen above—Croz a little in advance, Hadow near him, and Hudson + some distance behind; but of Lord F. Douglas we could see + nothing.<a id="noteref_247" name="noteref_247" href= + "#note_247"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">247</span></span></a> We left + them where they fell; <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page292">[pg + 292]</span><a name="Pg292" id="Pg292" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>buried in snow at the base of the grandest cliff + of the most majestic mountain of the Alps.</p><a name="fig85" id= + "fig85" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus337.png" alt="Illustration: The Manilla rope" + title= + "THE MANILLA ROPE.248248The three ropes have been reduced by photography to the same scale." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE MANILLA ROPE.<a id="noteref_248" name="noteref_248" href= + "#note_248"><span class="tei tei-noteref" style= + "text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">248</span></span></a> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">All those who had + fallen had been tied with the Manilla, or with the second and equally + strong rope, and, consequently, there had been only one link—that + between old Peter and Lord F. Douglas—where the weaker rope had been + used. This had a very ugly look for Taugwalder, for it was not + possible to suppose that the others would have sanctioned the + employment of a rope so greatly inferior in strength when there were + more than 250 feet <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page293">[pg + 293]</span><a name="Pg293" id="Pg293" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>of + the better qualities still remaining out of use.<a id="noteref_249" + name="noteref_249" href="#note_249"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">249</span></span></a> For the + sake of the old guide (who bore a good reputation), and upon all + other accounts, it was desirable that this matter should be cleared + up; and after my examination before the court of inquiry which was + instituted by the Government was over, I handed in a number of + questions which were framed so as to afford old Peter an opportunity + of exculpating himself from the grave suspicions which at once fell + upon him. The questions, I was told, were put <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page294">[pg 294]</span><a name="Pg294" id="Pg294" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>and answered; but the answers, although + promised, have never reached me.<a id="noteref_250" name= + "noteref_250" href="#note_250"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">250</span></span></a></p><a name="fig86" + id="fig86" class="tei tei-anchor"></a><a name="fig87" id="fig87" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus338.png" alt="Illustration: The second rope" + title="THE SECOND ROPE." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE SECOND ROPE. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus339.png" alt= + "Illustration: The English church at Zermatt" title= + "THE ENGLISH CHURCH AT ZERMATT." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE ENGLISH CHURCH AT ZERMATT. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Meanwhile, the + administration sent strict injunctions to recover the bodies, and + upon the 19th of July, twenty-one men of Zermatt <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page295">[pg 295]</span><a name="Pg295" id="Pg295" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>accomplished that sad and dangerous + task.<a id="noteref_251" name="noteref_251" href= + "#note_251"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">251</span></span></a> Of the + body of Lord Francis Douglas they, too, saw nothing; it is probably + still arrested on the rocks above.<a id="noteref_252" name= + "noteref_252" href="#note_252"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">252</span></span></a> The + remains of Hudson and Hadow were interred upon the north side of the + Zermatt Church, in the presence of a reverent crowd of sympathising + friends. The body of Michel Croz lies upon the other side, under a + simpler tomb; whose inscription bears honourable testimony to his + rectitude, to his courage, and to his devotion.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">So the traditional + inaccessibility of the Matterhorn was vanquished, and was replaced by + legends of a more real character. Others will essay to scale its + proud cliffs, but to none will it be the mountain that it was to its + early explorers. Others may tread its summit-snows, but none will + ever know the feelings of those who first gazed upon its marvellous + panorama; and none, I trust, will ever be compelled to tell of joy + turned into grief, and of laughter into mourning. It proved to be a + stubborn foe; it <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page296">[pg + 296]</span><a name="Pg296" id="Pg296" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>resisted long, and gave many a hard blow; it was + defeated at last with an ease that none could have anticipated, but, + like a relentless enemy—conquered but not crushed—it took terrible + vengeance. The time may come when the Matterhorn shall have passed + away, and nothing, save a heap of shapeless fragments, will mark the + spot where the great mountain stood; for, atom by atom, inch by inch, + and yard by yard, it yields to forces which nothing can withstand. + That time is far distant; and, ages hence, generations unborn will + gaze upon its awful precipices, and wonder at its unique form. + However exalted may be their ideas, and however exaggerated their + expectations, none will come to return disappointed!</p> + + <div class="tei tei-tb"> + + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">With the Ascent of + the Matterhorn, my mountaineering in the Alps came to a close. The + disastrous termination, though casting a permanent cloud over + otherwise happy memories, and leaving a train of life-long regrets, + has not altered my regard for the purest, healthiest and most manly + of sports; and, often, in grappling with every day difficulties, + sometimes in apparently hopeless tasks, encouragement has been found + in the remembrance of hard-won victories over stubborn Alps.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">We who go + mountain-scrambling have constantly set before us the superiority of + fixed purpose or perseverance to brute force. We know that each + height, each step, must be gained by patient, laborious toil, and + that wishing cannot take the place of working; we know the benefits + of mutual aid; that many a difficulty must be encountered, and many + an obstacle must be grappled with or turned, but we know that where + there’s a will there’s a way: and we come back to our daily + occupations better fitted to fight the battle of life, and to + overcome the impediments which obstruct our paths, strengthened and + cheered by the recollection of past labours, and by the memories of + victories gained in other fields.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I have not made + myself an apologist for mountaineering, nor do I now intend to usurp + the functions of a moralist; but my <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page297">[pg 297]</span><a name="Pg297" id="Pg297" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>task would have been ill performed if it had + been concluded without one reference to the more serious lessons of + the mountaineer. We glory in the physical regeneration which is the + product of our exertions; we exult over the grandeur of the scenes + that are brought before our eyes, the splendours of sunrise and + sunset, and the beauties of hill, dale, lake, wood, and waterfall; + but we value more highly the development of manliness, and the + evolution, under combat with difficulties, of those noble qualities + of human nature—courage, patience, endurance, and fortitude.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Some hold these + virtues in less estimation, and assign base and contemptible motives + to those who indulge in our innocent sport.</p> + + <div class="tei tei-lg" style= + "margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-left: 2.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + <div class="tei tei-l" style="text-align: left"> + <span class="tei tei-q" style="text-align: left">“Be thou chaste + as ice, as pure as snow, thou shalt not escape calumny.”</span> + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Others, again, who + are not detractors, find mountaineering, as a sport, to be wholly + unintelligible. It is not greatly to be wondered at—we are not all + constituted alike. Mountaineering is a pursuit essentially adapted to + the young or vigorous, and not to the old or feeble. To the latter, + toil may be no pleasure; and it is often said by such persons, + <span class="tei tei-q">“This man is making a toil of + pleasure.”</span> Let the motto on the title-page be an answer, if an + answer be required. Toil he must who goes mountaineering; but out of + the toil comes strength (not merely muscular energy—more than that), + an awakening of all the faculties; and from the strength arises + pleasure. Then, again, it is often asked, in tones which seem to + imply that the answer must, at least, be doubtful, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“But does it repay you?”</span> Well, we cannot estimate + our enjoyment as you measure your wine, or weigh your lead,—it is + real, nevertheless. If I could blot out every reminiscence, or erase + every memory, still I should say that my scrambles amongst the Alps + have repaid me, for they have given me two of the best things a man + can possess—health and friends.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The recollections + of past pleasures cannot be effaced. Even now as I write they crowd + up before me. First comes an endless series of pictures, magnificent + in form, effect, and colour. I see the <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page298">[pg 298]</span><a name="Pg298" id="Pg298" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>great peaks, with clouded tops, seeming to mount + up for ever and ever; I hear the music of the distant herds, the + peasant’s jodel, and the solemn church-bells; and I scent the + fragrant breath of the pines: and after these have passed away, + another train of thoughts succeeds—of those who have been upright, + brave, and true; of kind hearts and bold deeds; and of courtesies + received at stranger hands, trifles in themselves, but expressive of + that good will towards men which is the essence of charity.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Still, the last, + sad memory hovers round, and sometimes drifts across like floating + mist, cutting off sunshine, and chilling the remembrance of happier + times. There have been joys too great to be described in words, and + there have been griefs upon which I have not dared to dwell; and with + these in mind I say, Climb if you will, but remember that courage and + strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence + may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; look + well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the + end.</p><a name="fig88" id="fig88" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus343.png" alt="Illustration: The end" /></div> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-back" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 6.00em"> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page299">[pg 299]</span><a name="Pg299" + id="Pg299" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc47" id= + "toc47"></a><a name="pdf48" id="pdf48"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">APPENDIX.</span></h1><span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page300">[pg 300]</span><a name="Pg300" id="Pg300" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page301">[pg 301]</span><a name= + "Pg301" id="Pg301" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc49" id= + "toc49"></a><a name="pdf50" id="pdf50"></a> + + <h2 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 144%; font-weight: 700">A.</span></span> <span class= + "tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 144%; font-variant: small-caps">The Death of + Bennen.</span></span><a id="noteref_253" name="noteref_253" href= + "#note_253"><span class="tei tei-noteref" style= + "text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">253</span></span></a></h2> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On February 28, + 1864, Mr. P. C. Gosset and Mr. B—— started from the village of + Ardon (about mid-way between Sion and Martigny), to make the ascent + of the Haut-de-Cry (9688 feet), with the guides J. J. Nance, F. + Rebot, A. Bevard, and J. J. Bennen. They arrived within a few + hundred feet of the summit before mid-day, and determined to + complete the ascent by following the crest of a ridge leading + towards the east. Before this could be done it was necessary to + cross some steep snow; and, while passing this, an avalanche was + unfortunately started. Bennen and Mr. B—— perished; the others + happily escaped. The following narrative, from the pen of Mr. + Gosset, illustrates, in a very impressive manner, the danger of + traversing new-fallen snow at considerable inclinations:—</p> + + <div class="block tei tei-p" style= + "margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"> + <span class="tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">We had to go + up a steep snow-field, about 800 feet high, as well as I remember. + It was about 150 feet broad at the top, and 400 or 500 at the + bottom. It was a sort of couloir on a large scale. During the + ascent we sank about one foot deep at every step. Bennen did not + seem to like the look of the snow very much. He asked the local + guides whether avalanches ever came down this couloir, to which + they answered that our position was perfectly safe. We had mounted + on the northern side of the couloir, and having arrived at 150 feet + from the top, we began crossing it on a horizontal curve, so as to + gain the E. arête. The inflexion or dip of the couloir was slight, + not above 25 feet, the inclination near 35°. We were walking in the + following order:—Bevard, Nance, Bennen, myself, B., and Rebot. + Having crossed over about three-quarters of the breadth of the + couloir, the two leading men suddenly sank considerably above their + waists. Bennen tightened the rope. The snow was too deep to think + of getting out of the hole they had made, so they advanced one or + two steps, dividing the snow with their bodies. Bennen turned round + and told us he was afraid of starting an avalanche; we asked + whether it would not be better to return and cross the couloir + higher up. To this the three Ardon men opposed themselves; they + mistook the proposed precaution for fear, and the two leading men + continued their work. After three or four steps gained in the + aforesaid manner, the snow became hard again. Bennen had not + moved—he was evidently undecided what he should do; as soon, + however, as he saw hard snow again, he advanced and crossed + parallel to, but above, the furrow the Ardon men had made. Strange + to say, the snow supported him. While he was passing I observed + that the leader, Bevard, had ten or twelve feet of rope coiled + round his shoulder. I of course at once told him to uncoil it and + get on the arête, from which he was not more than fifteen feet + distant. Bennen then told me to follow. I tried his steps, but sank + up to my waist in the very first. So I went through the furrows, + holding my elbows close to my body, so as not to touch the sides. + This furrow was about twelve feet long, and as the snow was good on + the other side, we had all come to the false conclusion that</span> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page302">[pg 302]</span><a name= + "Pg302" id="Pg302" class="tei tei-anchor"></a><span style= + "font-size: 90%">the snow was accidentally softer there than + elsewhere. Bennen advanced; he had made but a few steps when we + heard a deep, cutting sound. The snow-field split in two about + fourteen or fifteen feet above us. The cleft was at first quite + narrow, not more than an inch broad. An awful silence ensued; it + lasted but a few seconds, and then it was broken by Bennen’s + voice,</span> <span class="tei tei-q"><span style="font-size: 90%"> + ‘</span><span style="font-size: 90%">We are all + lost.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">’</span></span> + <span style="font-size: 90%">His words were slow and solemn, and + those who knew him felt what they really meant when spoken by + such a man as Bennen. They were his last words. I drove my + alpenstock into the snow, and brought the weight of my body to + bear on it. I then waited. It was an awful moment of suspense. I + turned my head towards Bennen to see whether he had done the same + thing. To my astonishment I saw him turn round, face the valley, + and stretch out both arms. The snow on which we stood began to + move slowly, and I felt the utter uselessness of any alpenstock. + I soon sank up to my shoulders, and began descending backwards. + From this moment I saw nothing of what had happened to the rest + of the party. With a good deal of trouble I succeeded in turning + round. The speed of the avalanche increased rapidly, and before + long I was covered up with snow. I was suffocating when I + suddenly came to the surface again. I was on a wave of the + avalanche, and saw it before me as I was carried down. It was the + most awful sight I ever saw. The head of the avalanche was + already at the spot where we had made our last halt. The head + alone was preceded by a thick cloud of snow-dust; the rest of the + avalanche was clear. Around me I heard the horrid hissing of the + snow, and far before me the thundering of the foremost part of + the avalanche. To prevent myself sinking again, I made use of my + arms much in the same way as when swimming in a standing + position. At last I noticed that I was moving slower; then I saw + the pieces of snow in front of me stop at some yards’ distance; + then the snow straight before me stopped, and I heard on a large + scale the same creaking sound that is produced when a heavy cart + passes over frozen snow in winter. I felt that I also had + stopped, and instantly threw up both arms to protect my head in + case I should again be covered up. I had stopped, but the snow + behind me was still in motion; its pressure on my body was so + strong, that I thought I should be crushed to death. This + tremendous pressure lasted but a short time; I was covered up by + snow coming from behind me. My first impulse was to try and + uncover my head—but this I could not do, the avalanche had frozen + by pressure the moment it stopped, and I was frozen in. Whilst + trying vainly to move my arms, I suddenly became aware that the + hands as far as the wrist had the faculty of motion. The + conclusion was easy, they must be above the snow. I set to work + as well as I could; it was time, for I could not have held out + much longer. At last I saw a faint glimmer of light. The crust + above my head was getting thinner, but I could not reach it any + more with my hands; the idea struck me that I might pierce it + with my breath. After several efforts I succeeded in doing so, + and felt suddenly a rush of air towards my mouth. I saw the sky + again through a little round hole. A dead silence reigned around + me; I was so surprised to be still alive, and so persuaded at the + first moment that none of my fellow-sufferers had survived, that + I did not even think of shouting for them. I then made vain + efforts to extricate my arms,</span> <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page303">[pg 303]</span><a name="Pg303" id="Pg303" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><span style="font-size: 90%">but found it + impossible; the most I could do was to join the ends of my + fingers, but they could not reach the snow any longer. After a + few minutes I heard a man shouting; what a relief it was to know + that I was not the sole survivor! to know that perhaps he was not + frozen in and could come to my assistance! I answered; the voice + approached, but seemed uncertain where to go, and yet it was now + quite near. A sudden exclamation of surprise! Rebot had seen my + hands. He cleared my head in an instant, and was about to try and + cut me out completely, when I saw a foot above the snow, and so + near to me that I could touch it with my arms, although they were + not quite free yet. I at once tried to move the foot; it was my + poor friend’s. A pang of agony shot through me as I saw that the + foot did not move. Poor B. had lost sensation, and was perhaps + already dead. Rebot did his best: after some time he wished me to + help him, so he freed my arms a little more so that I could make + use of them. I could do but little, for Rebot had torn the axe + from my shoulder as soon as he had cleared my head (I generally + carry an axe separate from my alpenstock—the blade tied to the + belt, and the handle attached to the left shoulder). Before + coming to me Rebot had helped Nance out of the snow; he was lying + nearly horizontally, and was not much covered over. Nance found + Bevard, who was upright in the snow, but covered up to the head. + After about twenty minutes the two last-named guides came up. I + was at length taken out; the snow had to be cut with the axe down + to my feet before I could be pulled out. A few minutes after one + o’clock</span> <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span><span style= + "font-size: 90%">we came to my poor friend’s face.... I wished + the body to be taken out completely, but nothing could induce the + three guides to work any longer, from the moment they saw that it + was too late to save him. I acknowledge that they were nearly as + incapable of doing anything as I was. When I was taken out of the + snow the cord had to be cut. We tried the end going towards + Bennen, but could not move it; it went nearly straight down, and + showed us that there was the grave of the bravest guide the + Valais ever had, and ever will have. The cold had done its work + on us; we could stand it no longer, and began the + descent.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc51" id="toc51"></a> <a name="pdf52" id="pdf52"></a> + + <h2 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 144%; font-weight: 700">B.</span></span> <span class= + "tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 144%; font-variant: small-caps">Struck by Lightning + upon the Matterhorn.</span></span><a id="noteref_254" name= + "noteref_254" href="#note_254"><span class="tei tei-noteref" style= + "text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">254</span></span></a></h2> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">[Mr. B. B. + Heathcote, of Chingford, Essex, whilst attempting to ascend the + Matterhorn by the southern route, was unfortunately used as a + lightning-conductor, when he was within 500 feet of the summit of + the mountain. It may be observed that the Matterhorn (like all + isolated Alpine rock summits) is frequently struck by lightning. + Signor Giordano has pointed out elsewhere that he found numerous + traces of electric discharges upon its summit.]<a id="noteref_255" + name="noteref_255" href="#note_255"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">255</span></span></a></p> + + <div class="block tei tei-p" style= + "margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"> + <span class="tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">On July 30, + 1869, in company with Peter Perrn,</span><a id="noteref_256" + name="noteref_256" href="#note_256"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">256</span></span></a> + <span style="font-size: 90%">Peter Taugwalder junior, and Jos. + Maquignaz, I commenced the ascent. The atmosphere was clear, and + the wind southerly. When very near to the summit an extremely + loud thunder-clap was heard, and we thought it prudent to + descend. We commenced the descent in the following + order:—Taugwalder first, myself next,</span> <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page304">[pg 304]</span><a name="Pg304" id= + "Pg304" class="tei tei-anchor"></a><span style= + "font-size: 90%">then Perrn, and Maquignaz last. On approaching + the Col do Felicité</span><a id="noteref_257" name="noteref_257" + href="#note_257"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">257</span></span></a> + <span style="font-size: 90%">I received a sharp, stinging blow on + the leg, and thought, at first, that a stone had been dislodged; + but a loud thunder-clap at once told me what it was. Perrn also + said that he had been hit on the leg. In a few moments I received + a hit on the right arm, which seemed to run along it, and + resembled a shock from a galvanic battery. At the same time all + the men gave a startled shriek, and exclaimed that they were hit + by lightning. The storm continued near us for some little time, + and then gradually died away. On arriving at the</span> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">cabane</span></span> + <span style="font-size: 90%">I found that Perrn had a long sore + on his arm; next morning his leg was much swollen and very weak. + We descended to Breil on the following day, and crossed to + Zermatt. The same day my hand began to swell, and it continued + very weak for about a week. Maquignaz’s neck was much swollen on + each side; the lightning hitting him (according to his account) + on the back, and upon each side of the neck. Taugwalder’s leg was + also slightly swollen. The thunder was tremendous—louder than I + have ever heard it before. There was no wind, nor rain, and + everything was in a mist.</span><span style= + "font-size: 90%">”</span></span> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc53" id="toc53"></a> <a name="pdf54" id="pdf54"></a> + + <h2 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 144%; font-weight: 700">C.</span></span> <span class= + "tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 144%; font-variant: small-caps">Note To Chapter + VII.</span></span></h2> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It was stated in + the <a href="#Pg124" class="tei tei-ref">commencement of this + chapter</a> that the Pointe des Ecrins was the highest mountain in + France. I have learned, since that paragraph was written, that + Captain Mieulet has determined that the height of the Aiguille + Verte is 13,540 feet; that mountain is consequently 78 feet higher + than the Pointe des Ecrins, and is the highest in France.</p> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc55" id="toc55"></a><a name="pdf56" id="pdf56"></a> + + <h2 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 144%; font-weight: 700">D.</span></span> <span class= + "tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 144%; font-variant: small-caps">Subsequent History of + the Matterhorn.</span></span><a id="noteref_258" name="noteref_258" + href="#note_258"><span class="tei tei-noteref" style= + "text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">258</span></span></a></h2> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Val + Tournanche natives who started to facilitate the way up the + south-west ridge of the Matterhorn for MM. Giordano and Sella, + pitched their tent upon my third platform, at the foot of the Great + Tower (12,992 feet), and enjoyed several days of bad weather under + its shelter. On the first fine day (13th of July) they began their + work, and about midday on the 14th got on to the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“shoulder,”</span> and arrived at the base of the final + peak (the point where Bennen stopped on July 28, 1862). The + counsels of the party were then divided. Two—Jean-Antoine Carrel + and Joseph Maquignaz—wished to go on; the others were not eager + about it. A discussion took place, and the result was they all + commenced to descend, and whilst upon the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“cravate”</span> (13,524) they heard our cries from the + summit.<a id="noteref_259" name="noteref_259" href= + "#note_259"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">259</span></span></a> Upon + the 15th they went down to Breil and reported their ill-success to + M. Giordano (see <a href="#Pg281" class="tei tei-ref">p. 281</a>). + That gentleman was naturally much disappointed, and pressed the men + to set out again.<a id="noteref_260" name="noteref_260" href= + "#note_260"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">260</span></span></a> Said + he, <span class="tei tei-q">“Until now I have striven for the + honour of making the first ascent,—fate has decided <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page305">[pg 305]</span><a name="Pg305" id="Pg305" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>against me,—I am beaten. Patience! Now, + if I make further sacrifices it will be on your account, for your + honour, and for your interests. Will you start again to settle the + question, or, at least, to let there be no more + uncertainty?”</span> The majority of the men (in fact the whole of + them with the exception of Jean-Antoine) refused point-blank to + have anything more to do with the mountain. Carrel, however, + stepped forward, saying, <span class="tei tei-q">“As for me, I have + not given it up; if you (turning to the Abbé Gorret) or the others + will come, I will start again immediately.”</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Not I!”</span> said one. <span class="tei tei-q">“No + more for me,”</span> cried a second. <span class="tei tei-q">“If + you would give me a thousand francs I would not go back,”</span> + said a third. The Abbé Gorret alone volunteered. This plucky priest + was concerned in the very first attempts upon the mountain,<a id= + "noteref_261" name="noteref_261" href="#note_261"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">261</span></span></a> and + is an enthusiastic mountaineer. Carrel and the Abbé would have set + out by themselves had not J. B. Bich and J.-A. Meynet (two men in + the employ of Favre the innkeeper) come forward at the last moment. + M. Giordano also wished to accompany them, but the men knew the + nature of the work they had to undertake, and positively declined + to be accompanied by an amateur.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">These four men + left Breil at 6.30 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> on July 16, at 1 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> + arrived at the third tent-platform, and there passed the night. At + daybreak on the 17th they continued the ascent by the route which + had been taken before; passed successively the Great Tower, the + <span class="tei tei-q">“crête du coq,”</span> the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“cravate,”</span> and the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“shoulder,”</span><a id="noteref_262" name= + "noteref_262" href="#note_262"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">262</span></span></a> and + at 10 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> gained the point at the foot of + the final peak from which the explorers had turned back on the + 14th.<a id="noteref_263" name="noteref_263" href= + "#note_263"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">263</span></span></a> They + had then about 800 feet to accomplish, and, says the Abbé, + <span class="tei tei-q">“nous allions entrer en pays inconnu, aucun + n’étant jamais allé aussi loin.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The passage of + the cleft which stopped Bennen was accomplished, and then the party + proceeded directly towards the summit, over rocks which for some + distance were not particularly difficult. The steep cliffs down + which we had hurled stones (on the 14th) then stopped their way, + and Carrel led round to the left or Z’Mutt side. The work at this + part was of the very greatest difficulty, and stones and icicles + which fell rendered the position of the party very + precarious;<a id="noteref_264" name="noteref_264" href= + "#note_264"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">264</span></span></a> so + much so that they preferred to turn up directly towards the summit, + and climb by rocks that the Abbé termed <span class= + "tei tei-q">“almost perpendicular.”</span> He added, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“This part occupied the most time, and gave us the + greatest trouble.”</span> At length they arrived at a fault in the + rocks which formed a roughly horizontal gallery. They crept along + this in the direction of a ridge that descended towards the + north-west, or thereabouts, and when close to the <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page306">[pg 306]</span><a name="Pg306" id="Pg306" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>ridge, found that they could not climb + on to it; but they perceived that, by descending a gully with + perpendicular sides, they could reach the ridge at a lower point. + The bold Abbé was the heaviest and the strongest of the four, and + he was sacrificed for the success of the expedition. He and Meynet + remained behind, and lowered the others, one by one, into the + gully. Carrel and Bich clambered up the other side, attained the + ridge descending towards the north-west, shortly afterwards gained + an <span class="tei tei-q">“easy route, they + galloped,”</span><a id="noteref_265" name="noteref_265" href= + "#note_265"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">265</span></span></a> and + in a few minutes reached the southern end of the summit-ridge.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The time of + their arrival does not appear to have been noticed. It was late in + the day, I believe about 3 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> Carrel and his comrade only + waited long enough to plant a flag by the side of the cairn that we + had built three days previously, then descended at once, rejoined + the others, and all four hurried down as fast as possible to the + tent. They were so pressed for time that they could not eat! and it + was 9 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> before they arrived at their + camp at the foot of the Great Tower. In descending they followed + the gallery above mentioned throughout its entire length, and so + avoided the very difficult rocks over which they had passed on the + ascent. As they were traversing the length of the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“shoulder”</span> they witnessed the phenomenon to + which I have already adverted at the foot of <a href="#Pg289" + class="tei tei-ref">p. 289</a>.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">When Carrel and + Bich were near the summit they saw our traces upon the + Matterhorngletscher, and suspected that an accident had occurred; + they did not, however, hear of the Matterhorn catastrophe until + their return to Breil, at 3 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> upon the 18th. The details of + that sad event were in the mouths of all, and it was not + unnaturally supposed, in the absence of correct information, that + the accident was a proof that the northern side was frightfully + dangerous. The safe return of the four Italians was regarded, on + the other hand, as evidence that the Breil route was the best. + Those who were interested (either personally or otherwise) in the + Val Tournanche made the most of the circumstances, and trumpeted + the praises of the southern route. Some went farther, and + instituted comparisons between the two routes to the disadvantage + of the northern one, and were pleased to term our expedition on the + 13-14th of July precipitate, and so forth. Considering the + circumstances which caused us to leave the Val Tournanche on the + 12th of July, these remarks were not in the best possible taste, + but I have no feeling regarding them. There may be some, however, + who may be interested in a comparison of the two routes, and for + their sakes I will place the essential points in juxtaposition. We + (that is the Taugwalders and myself) were absent from Zermatt 53 + hours. Excluding halts and stoppages of one sort or another, the + ascent and descent occupied us 23 hours. Zermatt is 5315 feet above + the level of the sea, and the Matterhorn is 14,780; we had + therefore to ascend 9465 feet. As far as the point marked 10,820 + feet the way was known, so we had to find the way over only 3960 + feet. The members of our party (I now include all) were very + unequal in ability, and none of us could for a moment be compared + as cragsmen with Jean-Antoine Carrel. The four Italians who started + from Breil on the 16th of July were absent during <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page307">[pg 307]</span><a name="Pg307" id="Pg307" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>56½ hours, and as far as I can gather + from the published account, and from conversation with the men, + excluding halts, they took for the ascent and descent 23¾ hours. + The hotel at Breil is 6890 feet above the sea, so they had to + ascend 7890 feet. As far as the end of the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“shoulder”</span> the way was known to Carrel, and he + had to find the way over only about 800 feet. All four men were + born mountaineers, good climbers, and they were led by the most + expert cragsman I have seen. The weather in each instance was fine. + It is seen, therefore, that these four nearly equally matched men + took a <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">longer</span></span> time to ascend 1500 feet + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">less</span></span> height than ourselves, + although we had to find the way over more than four times as much + untrodden ground as they. This alone would lead any mountaineer to + suppose that their route must have been more difficult than + ours.<a id="noteref_266" name="noteref_266" href= + "#note_266"><span class="tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">266</span></span></a> I + know the greater part of the ground over which they passed, and + from my knowledge, and from the account of Mr. Grove, I am sure + that their route was not only more difficult, but that it was + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">much</span></span> more difficult than + ours.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This was not the + opinion in the Val Tournanche at the end of 1865, and the natives + confidently reckoned that tourists would flock to their side in + preference to the other. It was, I believe, the late Canon Carrel + of Aosta (who always took great interest in such matters) who first + proposed the construction of a <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">cabane</span></span> + upon the southern side of the Matterhorn. The project was taken up + with spirit, and funds for its execution were speedily + provided—principally by the members of the Italian Alpine Club, or + by their friends. The indefatigable Carrel found a natural hole + upon the ledge called the <span class="tei tei-q">“cravate”</span> + (13,524), and this, in course of time, was turned, under his + direction, into a respectable little hut. Its position is superb, + and gives a view of the most magnificent character.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Whilst this work + was being carried out, my friend Mr. F. Craufurd Grove consulted me + respecting the ascent of the Matterhorn. I recommended him to + ascend by the northern route, and to place himself in the hands of + Jean-Antoine Carrel. Mr. Grove found, however, that Carrel + distinctly preferred the southern side, and they ascended + accordingly by the Breil route. Mr. Grove has been good enough to + supply the following account of his expedition. He carries on my + description of the southern route from the highest point I attained + on that side (a little below the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“cravate”</span>) to the summit, and thus renders + complete my descriptions of the two sides.</p> + + <div class="block tei tei-p" style= + "margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"> + <span class="tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">In August + 1867 I ascended the Matterhorn from Breil, taking as guides three + mountaineers of the Val Tournanche—J. A. Carrel, J. Bich, and S. + Meynet,—Carrel being the leader. At that time the Matterhorn had + not been scaled since the famous expedition of the Italian guides + mentioned above.</span></span> + </div> + + <div class="block tei tei-p" style= + "margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"> + <span class="tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">Our route was + identical with that which they followed in their descent when, as + will be seen, they struck out on one part of the mountain a + different line from that which they had taken in ascending. After + gaining the Col du Lion, we climbed the south-western or + Breil</span> <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">arête</span></span> + <span style="font-size: 90%">by the route which has been described + in these pages, passing the night at the then unfinished hut + con</span><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page308">[pg + 308]</span><a name="Pg308" id="Pg308" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><span style="font-size: 90%">structed by the + Italian Alpine Club on the</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q"><span style="font-size: 90%">‘</span><span style= + "font-size: 90%">cravate.</span><span style= + "font-size: 90%">’</span></span> <span style= + "font-size: 90%">Starting from the hut at daylight, we reached at + an early hour the summit of the</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q"><span style="font-size: 90%">‘</span><span style= + "font-size: 90%">shoulder,</span><span style= + "font-size: 90%">’</span></span> <span style="font-size: 90%">and + then traversed its</span> <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">arête</span></span> + <span style="font-size: 90%">to the final peak of the Matterhorn. + The passage of this</span> <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">arête</span></span> + <span style="font-size: 90%">was perhaps the most enjoyable part of + the whole expedition. The ridge, worn by slow irregular decay into + monstrous and rugged battlements, and guarded on each side by + tremendous precipices, is grand beyond all description, but does + not, strange to say, present any remarkable difficulty to the + climber, save that it is exceedingly trying to the head. Great care + is of course necessary, but the scramble is by no means of so + arduous a nature as entirely to absorb the attention; so that a + fine climb, and rock scenery, of grandeur perhaps unparalleled in + the Alps, can both be appreciated.</span></span> + </div> + + <div class="block tei tei-p" style= + "margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"> + <span class="tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">It was near + the end of this</span> <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">arête</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">, + close to the place where it abuts against the final peak, that + Professor Tyndall’s party turned in 1862,</span><a id= + "noteref_267" name="noteref_267" href="#note_267"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">267</span></span></a> + <span style="font-size: 90%">arrested by a cleft in the ridge. + From the point where they stopped the main tower of the + Matterhorn rises in front of the climber, abrupt, magnificent, + and apparently inaccessible. The summit is fully 750 feet in + vertical height above this spot, and certainly, to my eye, + appeared to be separated from me by a yet more considerable + interval; for I remember, when at the end of the</span> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">arête</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">, + looking upward at the crest of the mountain, and thinking that it + must be a good 1000 feet above me.</span></span> + </div> + + <div class="block tei tei-p" style= + "margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"> + <span class="tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">When the + Italian guides made their splendid ascent, they traversed + the</span> <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">arête</span></span> + <span style="font-size: 90%">of the shoulder to the main peak, + passed the cleft which has been mentioned (</span><a href="#Pg090" + class="tei tei-ref"><span style="font-size: 90%">p. + 90</span></a><span style="font-size: 90%">), clambered on to the + tremendous north-western face of the mountain (described by Mr. + Whymper at</span> <a href="#Pg277" class= + "tei tei-ref"><span style="font-size: 90%">pp. 277</span></a> + <span style="font-size: 90%">and</span> <a href="#Pg282" class= + "tei tei-ref"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">282</span></a><span style="font-size: 90%">), + and then endeavoured to cross this face so as to get on to the + Z’Mutt</span> <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">arête</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">.</span><a id="noteref_268" + name="noteref_268" href="#note_268"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">268</span></span></a> + <span style="font-size: 90%">The passage of this slope proved a + work of great difficulty and danger. I saw it from very near the + place which they traversed, and was unable to conceive how any + human creatures managed to crawl over rocks so steep and so + treacherous. After they had got about half-way across, they found + the difficulties of the route and the danger from falling stones + so great, that they struck straight up the mountain, in the hope + of finding some safer way. They were to a certain extent + successful, for they came presently to a small ledge, caused by a + sort of fault in the rock, running horizontally across the + north-western face of the mountain a little distance below the + summit. Traversing this ledge, the Italians found themselves + close to the Z’Mutt</span> <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">arête</span></span><span style="font-size: 90%">, + but still separated from it by a barrier, to outflank which it + was necessary to descend a perpendicular gully. Carrel and Bich + were lowered down this, the other two men remaining at the top to + haul up their companions on their return, as otherwise they could + not have got up again. Passing on to the Z’Mutt</span> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">arête</span></span> + <span style="font-size: 90%">without further difficulty, Carrel + and Bich climbed by that ridge to the summit of the mountain. In + returning, the Italians kept to the ledge for the whole distance + across the north-western face, and descended to the place where + the</span> <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">arête</span></span> + <span style="font-size: 90%">of the shoulder abuts against the + main peak by a sort of rough ridge of rocks between the + north-western and southern faces. When I ascended in 1867, we + followed this route in the ascent and in the descent. I thought + the ledge difficult, in some places decidedly dangerous, and + should not care to set foot on it again; but</span> <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page309">[pg 309]</span><a name="Pg309" id= + "Pg309" class="tei tei-anchor"></a><span style= + "font-size: 90%">assuredly it neither is so difficult nor so + continuously dangerous as those gaunt and pitiless rock-slopes + which the Italians crossed in their upward route.</span></span> + </div><a name="plate13" id="plate13" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus355.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: The hut on the Eastern face (Zermatt side) of the Matterhorn" + title= + "THE HUT (CABANE) ON THE ZERMATT SIDE OF THE MATTERHORN. FROM A PHOTOGRAPH BY THE AUTHOR." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE HUT (CABANE) ON THE ZERMATT SIDE OF THE MATTERHORN.<br /> + FROM A PHOTOGRAPH BY THE AUTHOR. + </div> + </div> + + <div class="block tei tei-p" style= + "margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"> + <span class="tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">“</span><span style="font-size: 90%">The credit of + making the</span> <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 90%; font-style: italic">Italian</span></span> + <span style="font-size: 90%">ascent of the Matterhorn belongs + undoubtedly to J.-A. Carrel and to the other mountaineers who + accompanied him. Bennen led his party bravely and skilfully to a + point some 750 feet below the top. From this point, however, good + guide though he was, Bennen had to retire defeated; and it was + reserved for the better mountain-craft of the Valtournanche guide + to win the difficult way to the summit of the + Matterhorn.</span><span style="font-size: 90%">”</span></span> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Mr. Craufurd + Grove was the first traveller who ascended the Matterhorn after the + accident, and the natives of Val Tournanche were, of course, + greatly delighted that his ascent was made upon their side. Some of + them, however, were by no means well pleased that J.-A. Carrel was + so much regarded. They feared, perhaps, that he would acquire the + monopoly of the mountain. Just a month after Mr. Grove’s ascent, + six Valtournanchians set out to see whether they could not learn + the route, and so come in for a share of the good things which were + expected to arrive. They were three Maquignaz’s, Cæsar Carrel (my + old guide), J.-B. Carrel, and a daughter of the last named! They + left Breil at 5 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> on Sept. 12, and at 3 + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> arrived at the hut, where they + passed the night. At 7 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> the next day they started again + (leaving J.-B. Carrel behind), and proceeded along the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“shoulder”</span> to the final peak; passed the cleft + which had stopped Bennen, and clambered up the comparatively easy + rocks on the other side until they arrived at the base of the last + precipice, down which we had hurled stones on July 14, 1865. They + (young woman and all) were then about 350 feet from the summit! + Then, instead of turning to the left, as Carrel and Mr. Grove had + done, Joseph and J.-Pierre Maquignaz paid attention to the cliff in + front of them, and managed to find a means of passing up, by + clefts, ledges, and gullies, to the summit. This was a shorter (and + it appears to be an easier) route than that taken by Carrel and + Grove, and it has been followed by all those who have since then + ascended the mountain from the side of Breil.<a id="noteref_269" + name="noteref_269" href="#note_269"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">269</span></span></a> + Subsequently, a rope was fixed over the most difficult portions of + the final climb.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In the meantime + they had not been idle upon the other side. A hut was constructed + upon the eastern face, at a height of 12,526 feet above the sea, + near to the crest of the ridge which descends towards Zermatt + (north-east ridge). This was done at the expense of Monsieur Seiler + and of the Swiss Alpine Club. Mons. Seiler placed the execution of + the work under the direction of the Knubels, of the village of St. + Nicholas, in the Zermatt valley; and Peter Knubel, along with + Joseph Marie Lochmatter of the same village, had the honour of + making the second ascent of the mountain upon the northern side + with Mr. Elliott. This took place on July 24-25, 1868. Since then + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page310">[pg 310]</span><a name= + "Pg310" id="Pg310" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>very numerous ascents + have been made both on the Swiss and upon the Italian side. The + list of ascents will, however, show that far more have been made by + the Zermatt or northern route than by the Breil or southern + route.</p><a name="fig89" id="fig89" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus357.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: The chapel at the Schwarzsee" title= + "THE CHAPEL AT THE SCHWARZSEE." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE CHAPEL AT THE SCHWARZSEE. + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Mr. Elliott + supposed that he avoided the place where the accident occurred, and + that he improved the northern route. This, however, is not the + case. Both he and the others who have succeeded him have followed + in all essential points the route which we took upon July 13-15, + 1865, with the exception of the deviations which I will point out. + Upon leaving Zermatt, the traveller commences by crossing a bridge + which is commonly termed the Matterhorn bridge, and proceeds to the + chapel at the Schwarzsee. Thence he mounts the Hörnli, and follows + its ridge along its entire length right up to the foot of the + Matterhorn. There is now a good path along the whole of this ridge, + but when we traversed it for the First Ascent there was not even so + much as a faintly marked track. The first steps which are taken + upon the mountain itself follow the exact line over which I myself + led upon the first ascent, and the track presently passes over the + precise spot upon which our tent was placed in 1865. In 1874, and + again in 1876, I saw the initials which I marked on the rock by the + side of our tent. The route now taken passes this rock, and then + goes round the corner of the buttress to which I referred upon + <a href="#Pg276" class="tei tei-ref">p. 276</a>. At this point the + route now followed deviates somewhat from the line of our ascent, + and goes more directly up to the part of the north-east ridge upon + which the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Cabane</span></span> is placed. We bore more + away on to the face of the mountain, and proceeded <span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page311">[pg 311]</span><a name="Pg311" id="Pg311" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>more directly towards the summit. At the + upper part of the ascent of the north-east ridge the route now + taken is exactly that of the first ascent until the foot of the + final peak is reached; and there, instead of bearing away to the + right, as we did, the tourist now clambers up directly towards the + summit by means of the fixed ropes and chains. The final portion of + the ascent, over the snow at the summit, again follows our + route.</p><a name="fig90" id="fig90" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus358.jpg" alt= + "Illustration: The summit of the Matterhorn in 1874 (Northern end)" + title="THE SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1874 (NORTHERN END)." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + THE SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1874 (NORTHERN END). + </div> + </div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">So far as the + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Cabane</span></span> there is now a strongly + marked track, almost a path, <span class="tei tei-pb" id= + "page312">[pg 312]</span><a name="Pg312" id="Pg312" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a>over the mountain; and little piles of stones, + placed in prominent situations, point out the way even to the + dullest person. What the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Cabane</span></span> itself is like will be + seen by reference to the illustration which <a href="#plate13" + class="tei tei-ref">faces p. 309</a>. It is placed in a very + insecure position, and will probably one of these days disappear by + disintegration. It is not easy at this part of the mountain to find + a good situation for a hut, though there is plenty of choice both + higher up and lower down.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Amongst the + ascents that have been made which are most worthy of note, that + made by Signor Giordano may be mentioned first. This gentleman came + to Breil several times after his famous visit in 1865, with the + intention of making the ascent, but he was always baffled by the + weather. In July 1866 he got as high as the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“cravate”</span> (with J. A. Carrel and other men) and + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">was + detained there five days and nights, unable to move either up or + down</span></span>. At last, upon Sept. 3-5, 1868, he was able to + gratify his desires, and accomplished the feat of ascending the + mountain on one side and descending it upon the other. Signor + Giordano is, I believe, the only geologist who has ascended the + mountain. He spent a considerable time in the examination of its + structure, and became benighted on its eastern face in consequence. + I am indebted to him for the valuable note and the accompanying + section which follow the Table of Ascents. Signor Giordano carried + a mercurial barometer throughout the entire distance, and read it + frequently. His observations have enabled me to determine with + confidence and accuracy the heights which were attained upon the + different attempts to ascend the mountain, and the various points + upon it which have been so frequently mentioned throughout this + volume.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Questions having + been frequently put to me respecting the immediate summit of the + Matterhorn, and difficulties having been expressed as to the + recognition of the two views given upon <a href="#fig79" class= + "tei tei-ref">pp. 279</a> and <a href="#fig80" class= + "tei tei-ref">281</a>, I made an ascent of the mountain in 1874 to + photograph the summit, in order that I might see what changes had + occurred since our visit of ten years before. The summits of all + high mountains vary from time to time, and I was not surprised to + find that the Matterhorn was no exception to the general rule. It + was altogether sharper and narrower in 1874 than 1865. Instead of + being able <span class="tei tei-q">“to run about,”</span> every + step had to be painfully cut with the axe; and the immediate + summit, instead of being a blunt and rounded eminence, was a little + piled-up cone of snow which went to a very sharp point. Our + photographic operations were conducted with difficulty, for a + furious north wind was blowing which would have whisked away the + camera immediately if it had been set up in the most convenient + position for taking a view; and we were compelled to cut a great + gash in the snow and to work down upon the edge of the cliff + overlooking Breil before we could escape from the gusts which were + whirling away the snow in writhing eddies. My guides J. A. Carrel, + Bic, and Lochmatter formed a strong party, and eventually we gained + a position, protected from the wind, whence there was a good view + of the summit; but our ledge was so small that we could not venture + to unrope, and Carrel had to squat down whilst I photographed over + his head. The <a href="#fig90" class="tei tei-ref">engraving upon + p. 311</a> has been made from the photograph so taken. It will + interest some of my readers to know that the nearest peak, seen + below, is the summit of the Dent d’Hérens.</p><span class= + "tei tei-pb" id="page313">[pg 313]</span><a name="Pg313" id="Pg313" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The light was + not favourable for photographing the <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Cabane</span></span> + when we returned from the summit, and I stopped alone with Carrel + in it for a second night in order to get the morning light on the + next day. Whilst quietly reposing inside, I was startled to hear a + rustling and crackling sound, and jumped up, expecting that the + building was about to take itself off to lower quarters; and + presently I perceived that the hut had a tenant to whom I certainly + did not expect to be introduced. A little, plump mouse came + creeping out over the floor, being apparently of opinion that there + ought not to be any one there at that time of day. It wandered + about picking up stray fragments of food, occasionally crunching a + bit of egg-shell, totally unaware of my presence, for I made out + that the little animal was both blind and deaf. It would have been + easy to capture it, but I would not do so, and left it there to + keep company with other solitary tourists.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The view from + the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Cabane</span></span> extends from the + Bietschhorn on the north to the Grand Tournalin in the south; and + includes the Mischabel group, the Allalleinhorn and Alphubel, Mont + Rosa, etc. etc. Its situation is not high enough to overlook those + mountains, and so the prospect is very similar to the northern and + eastern half of the view from the Riffel. The uppermost 800 feet of + the Matterhorn can be seen from the hut, but the rest of the part + above it is not visible, being hidden by a small ridge which + projects from the face. Whilst stopping in the <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Cabane</span></span> + we had the insecurity of its position forcibly impressed upon us by + seeing a huge block break away from the rock at its side, and go + crashing down over the very route which is commonly pursued by + tourists.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The year 1879 is + a memorable one in the history of the Matterhorn, for in it there + occurred two deaths upon the mountain, and two new routes were + discovered. Sufficient information has not come to hand at the time + I write upon what is termed the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">affaire Brantschen</span></span>”</span> to + enable one to form a correct opinion about that lamentable + business, and it is enough to say that upon August 12 a party + started from Breil, composed of Dr. Lüscher, Prof. Schiess, and the + guides J. M. Lochmatter, Jos. Brantschen, and Petryson of Evolena. + They gained the hut on the <span class="tei tei-q">“cravate”</span> + in due course, and on the following day the party crossed the + mountain to Zermatt, with the exception of Brantschen, who was left + behind in the hut, some say only slightly ill, and others at the + point of death. Which of these was the case is only known by those + concerned. They sent back assistance to their comrade in a somewhat + tardy fashion, and when the relief party gained the hut Brantschen + was found dead.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At the time that + this was taking place on the southern side of the Matterhorn, an + accident occurred on the north-east face by which a life was lost. + Messrs. A. E. Craven and Dr. Moseley (of Boston), with the guides + Peter Rubi and C. Inabnit, left Zermatt at 10.30 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> on the + night of August 13, and ascended the mountain by the usual northern + route without stopping at the hut. They reached the summit at 9 + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> on the 14th, and had returned + to within a short distance of the hut, when Dr. Moseley (who had + found it irksome to be tied up, and had frequently wished to go + unroped) untied himself from the rest, doing so entirely upon his + own responsibility. A few minutes later, and within quite a short + distance of the hut, the party had to cross a projecting piece of + rock. Rubi went over first, and planted his axe in position to give + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page314">[pg 314]</span><a name= + "Pg314" id="Pg314" class="tei tei-anchor"></a>firm footing to Dr. + Moseley, who followed. But, unhappily, he declined assistance; + placed his hand on the rock, and endeavoured to vault over it. In + doing so he slipped, lost hold of his axe, and fell with ever + accelerating velocity down almost the whole of the north-east face. + He fell about 2000 feet, and was of course killed on the spot. His + body was recovered three days later, and was interred in the + English burying-ground at Zermatt.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Many persons + have talked at different times about the possibility of finding a + way up the Matterhorn from the side of the Z’Mutt glacier; but it + was not until the year 1879 that a way was found. On September 2-3, + Mr. A. F. Mummery, with the + guides ? and ? , + succeeded in gaining the summit by first going up the long buttress + of snow which runs out from the mountain to the Z’Mutt glacier, and + then up the rocks above. I have been unable to procure any details + respecting this expedition and my only information about it has + been derived from Mr. Baumann, who followed in Mr. Mummery’s traces + three days later. Mr. Baumann says: <span class="tei tei-q">“We + followed the long ice-slope to its extreme upper end, then the + jagged arête above it for a short distance, and then deviated a + little to the right, climbing by a secondary rocky ridge descending + towards the Stockhi until within an hour of the summit, when we + struck the main Z’Mutt arête and so completed the ascent by joining + the Breil route.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At the very time + that Mr. Mummery was occupied in his expedition, Mr. W. Penhall, + with the guides F. Imseng and L. Sorbriehen, was engaged in a + similar enterprise, and also ascended the Matterhorn from the + direction of the Stockhi. He, however, at the first took a route + closer to the Tiefenmatten glacier, though he at last, like the + others, eventually got upon the main Z’Mutt arête and completed the + ascent by following a portion of the Breil route.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Neither Mr. + Mummery, nor Messrs. Baumann and Penhall, descended by the routes + which they struck out, and in each case the respective parties + descended by the northern or Zermatt route. It is therefore at + present impossible to determine the relative difficulty of the + various routes up the mountain. Still, I think that the great + majority of tourists will, as heretofore, prefer the ordinary + Zermatt route, and that comparatively few will patronize the + newly-discovered ones.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The ascent of + the Matterhorn has now taken its place amongst those which are + considered fashionable, and many persons get upon it who ought not + to be upon a mountain at all. Although much has been done on both + sides of it to facilitate the routes, and although they are much + easier to traverse than they were in years gone by, it is still + quite possible to get into trouble upon them, and to come utterly + to grief. Considering how large a number of entirely incompetent + persons venture upon the mountain, it is surprising so few meet + with accidents; but if the number of accidents continues to + increase at its present rate it will, ere long, not be easy to find + a place of interment in the English churchyard at Zermatt.</p> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page315">[pg 315]</span><a name= + "Pg315" id="Pg315" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc57" id= + "toc57"></a> <a name="pdf58" id="pdf58"></a> + + <h2 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 144%; font-weight: 700">E.</span></span> <span style= + "font-size: 144%">TABLE OF ATTEMPTS MADE TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN + PREVIOUS TO THE FIRST ASCENT.</span></h2> + + <table summary="This is a table" cellspacing="0" class= + "rules tei tei-table" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> + <colgroup span="6"></colgroup> + + <tbody> + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">No. of</span><br /> + <span style="font-size: 75%">Attempt.</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Date.</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Names.</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Side upon + which</span><br /> + <span style="font-size: 75%">the Attempt was</span><br /> + <span style="font-size: 75%">made, and Place</span><br /> + <span style="font-size: 75%">arrived at.</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Greatest</span><br /> + + <span style="font-size: 75%">Height</span><br /> + <span style="font-size: 75%">attained.</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%; font-variant: small-caps"> + Remarks.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">1</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">1858-9.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J.-Antoine Carrel.<br /> + J.-Jacques Carrel<br /> + Victor Carrel.<br /> + Gab. Maquignaz.<br /> + Abbé Gorret.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil side<br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span class="tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">“</span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">Chimney.</span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">”</span></span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">12,650</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Several attempts + were made before this height was attained; the men concerned + cannot remember how many. See</span> <a href="#Pg046" class= + "tei tei-ref"><span style="font-size: 75%">p. + 46</span></a><span style= + "font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">1860.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">2</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Alfred Parker.<br /> + Charles Parker.<br /> + Sandbach Parker.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt side<br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">East + face.</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">11,500?</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Without + guides.</span> <a href="#Pg046" class= + "tei tei-ref"><span style="font-size: 75%">P. + 46-7</span></a><span style= + "font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">3</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">August</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">V. Hawkins.<br /> + J. Tyndall.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil side<br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Hawkins + got to foot of</span> <span class="tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">“</span><span style="font-size: 75%">Great + Tower,</span><span style="font-size: 75%">”</span></span> + <span style="font-size: 75%">Tyndall a few feet + higher.</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">12,992<br /> + 13,050?</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. J. Bennen + and J.-Jacques Carrel.</span> <a href="#Pg047" class= + "tei tei-ref"><span style="font-size: 75%">Pp.</span></a> + <a name="corr315" id="corr315" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">47-9.</span></span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">1861.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">4</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Messrs. Parker</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt side<br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">East + face.</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">11,700?</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">No guides.</span> + <a href="#Pg049" class="tei tei-ref"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P. 49</span></a><span style= + "font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">5</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 29</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J.-Antoine Carrel.<br /> + J.-Jacques Carrel.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil side<br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span class="tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">“</span><span style="font-size: 75%">Crête + du Coq.</span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">”</span></span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">13,230</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">See</span> <a href= + "#Pg057" class="tei tei-ref"><span style="font-size: 75%">p. + 57</span></a><span style= + "font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">6</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 29-30</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Edward Whymper</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil side<br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span class="tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">“</span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">Chimney.</span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">”</span></span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">12,650</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Camped upon the + mountain, with an Oberland guide.</span> <a href="#Pg051" + class="tei tei-ref"><span style="font-size: 75%">Pp. + 51-7</span></a><span style= + "font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">1862.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">7</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">January</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">T. S. Kennedy</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt side<br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">East + face.</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">11,000?</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Winter + attempt.</span> <a href="#Pg058" class= + "tei tei-ref"><span style="font-size: 75%">Pp. + 58-9</span></a><span style= + "font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">8</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 7-8</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">R. J. S. Macdonald.<br /> + Edward Whymper.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil side<br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Arête + below</span> <span class="tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">“</span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">Chimney.</span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">”</span></span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">12,000</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Johann zum + Taugwald and Johann Kronig.</span> <a href="#Pg064" class= + "tei tei-ref"><span style="font-size: 75%">Pp. + 64-5</span></a><span style= + "font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">9</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 9-10</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">R. J. S. Macdonald.<br /> + Edward Whymper.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil side<br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span class="tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">“</span><span style="font-size: 75%">Great + Tower.</span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">”</span></span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">12,992</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J.-A. Carrel + and Pession.</span> <a href="#Pg066" class= + "tei tei-ref"><span style="font-size: 75%">P. + 66</span></a><span style= + "font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">”</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 18-19</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"> + ” ”</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil side<br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">Somewhat higher than the lowest part of + the</span> <span class="tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">“</span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">Cravate.</span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">”</span></span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">13,400</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Alone.</span> + <a href="#Pg067" class="tei tei-ref"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">Pp. 67-79</span></a><span style= + "font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">10</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 23-24</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"> + ” ”</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil side<br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span class="tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">“</span><span style="font-size: 75%">Crête + du Coq.</span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">”</span></span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">13,150</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J.-A. + Carrel, Cæsar Carrel, and Luc Meynet.</span> <a href="#Pg080" + class="tei tei-ref"><span style="font-size: 75%">P. + 80</span></a><span style= + "font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">11</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 25-26</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"> + ” ”</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil side<br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Nearly + as high as the highest part of the</span> <span class= + "tei tei-q"><span style="font-size: 75%">“</span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">Cravate.</span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">”</span></span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">13,460</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">With Luc + Meynet.</span> <a href="#Pg081" class= + "tei tei-ref"><span style="font-size: 75%">Pp. + 81-2</span></a><span style= + "font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">12</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 27-28</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. Tyndall</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil side<br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span class="tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">“</span><span style="font-size: 75%">The + Shoulder,</span><span style="font-size: 75%">”</span></span> + <span style="font-size: 75%">to foot of final + peak.</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">13,970</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. J. Bennen + and Anton Walter; porters—J.-Antoine Carrel, Cæsar Carrel, + and another.</span> <a href="#Pg083" class= + "tei tei-ref"><span style="font-size: 75%">Pp. + 83-87</span></a><span style="font-size: 75%">,</span> + <a href="#Pg090" class="tei tei-ref"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">90-92</span></a><span style= + "font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">1863.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">13</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 10-11</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Edward Whymper</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil side<br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span class="tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">“</span><span style="font-size: 75%">Crête + du Coq.</span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">”</span></span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">13,280</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J.-A. + Carrel, Cæsar Carrel, Luc Meynet, and two porters.</span> + <a href="#Pg114" class="tei tei-ref"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">Pp. 114-123</span></a><span style= + "font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">1865.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">14</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">June 21.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"> + ” ”</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">South-east face</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">11,200?</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Michel Croz, + Christian Almer, Franz Biener; porter—Luc Meynet.</span> + <a href="#Pg231" class="tei tei-ref"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">Pp. 231-235</span></a><span style= + "font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + </tbody> + </table> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page316">[pg 316]</span><a name= + "Pg316" id="Pg316" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc59" id= + "toc59"></a> <a name="pdf60" id="pdf60"></a> + + <h2 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 144%; font-weight: 700">F.</span></span> <span style= + "font-size: 144%">ASCENTS OF THE MATTERHORN.</span></h2><a name= + "Pg317" id="Pg317" class="tei tei-anchor"></a><a name="Pg318" id= + "Pg318" class="tei tei-anchor"></a><a name="Pg319" id="Pg319" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a><a name="Pg320" id="Pg320" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><a name="Pg321" id="Pg321" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><a name="Pg322" id="Pg322" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <table summary="This is a table" cellspacing="0" class= + "rules tei tei-table" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> + <colgroup span="5"></colgroup> + + <tbody> + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">No. of</span><br /> + <span style="font-size: 75%">Ascent</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Date.</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Names.</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Route + taken.</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-variant: small-caps">Remarks.</span></span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">1865.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">1</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 13-15</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"> + Lord Francis Douglas.<br /> + D. Hadow.<br /> + Charles Hudson.<br /> + Edward Whymper.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt<br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">(Or + Northern route.)</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Michel Croz, + Peter Taugwalder</span> <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-style: italic">père</span></span><span style="font-size: 75%">, + Peter Taugwalder</span> <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-style: italic">fils</span></span><span style="font-size: 75%">. + See</span> <a href="#Pg271" class="tei tei-ref"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">pp. 271-290</span></a><span style= + "font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">2</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 16-18</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Jean-Antoine Carrel.<br /> + J. Baptiste Bich.<br /> + Amé Gorret.<br /> + J.-Augustin Meynet.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil<br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">(Or + Southern route.)</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">The first two named + only ascended to the summit. See</span> <a href="#Pg282" + class="tei tei-ref"><span style="font-size: 75%">pp. + 282</span></a><span style="font-size: 75%">,</span> <a href= + "#Pg304" class="tei tei-ref"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">304-6</span></a><span style= + "font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">1867.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">3</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 13-15</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">F. Craufurd Grove</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. A. + Carrel, Salamon Meynet, and J. B. Bich.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">4</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 12-14</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Jos. Maquignaz.<br /> + J.-Pierre Maquignaz.<br /> + Victor Maquignaz.<br /> + Cæsar Carrel.<br /> + J.-B. Carrel.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">An easier route was + discovered by this party than that taken upon July 17, 1865. + The first two named only ascended to the summit. See</span> + <a href="#Pg309" class="tei tei-ref"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">p. 309</span></a><span style= + "font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">5</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Oct. 1-3</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">W. Leighton Jordan</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—the + Maquignaz’s just named, Cæsar Carrel, and F. Ansermin. The + Maquignaz’s and Mr. Jordan alone reached the + summit.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">1868.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">6</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 24-25</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. M. Elliott</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Jos. Marie + Lochmatter and Peter Knubel.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">7</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 26-28</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. Tyndall</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Up Breil side and + down Zermatt side.</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Jos. and + Pierre Maquignaz, and three others.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">8</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 2-4</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">O. Hoiler.<br /> + F. Thioly.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">” ?</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Account given in + hotel-book at Breil is not very clear. Guides seem to have + been Jos. and Victor Maquignaz and Elie + Pession.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">9</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 3-4</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">G. E. Foster</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Hans + Baumann, Peter Bernett, and Peter Knubel.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">10</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 8</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Paul Guessfeldt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Jos. Marie + Lochmatter, Nich. Knubel, and Peter + Knubel.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">11</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 1-2</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">A. G. Girdlestone.<br /> + F. Craufurd Grove.<br /> + W. E. U. Kelso.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Jos. Marie + Lochmatter and the two Knubels.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">12</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 2-3</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">G. B. Marke</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Nich. Knubel + and Pierre Zurbriggen (Saas).</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">13</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 3-5</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">F. Giordano</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Up Breil side and + down Zermatt side.</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. A. Carrel + and Jos. Maquignaz. See</span> <a href="#Pg310" class= + "tei tei-ref"><span style="font-size: 75%">p. + 310</span></a><span style= + "font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">14</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 8-9</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Paul Sauzet</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. A. Carrel + and Jos. Maquignaz.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">1869.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">15</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 20</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">James Eccles</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. A. + Carrel, Bich, and two Payots (Chamounix).</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">16</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 26-27</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">R. B. Heathcote</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—The four + Maquignaz’s (Val Tournanche).</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">1870.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">17</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 20 (?)</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">?</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">No details have + come to hand.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">1871.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">18</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 16-17</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">E. R. Whitwell</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Ulrich and + Ch. Lauener.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">19</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 21-22</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">F. Gardiner.<br /> + F. Walker.<br /> + Lucy Walker.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Peter Perrn, + P. Knubel, N. Knubel, Melchior Anderegg, and Heinrich + Anderegg.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">20</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">?</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">— Fowler</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—C. Knubel + and J. M. Lochmatter.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">21</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 2-3</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">W. E. Utterson-Kelso</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Victor and + Emmanuel Maquignaz and Joseph Gillioz.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">22</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 7-8</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">R. S. Lyle</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. J. + Maquignaz and ?</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">23</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 18-19</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">C. E. Mathews.<br /> + F. Morshead.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. A. Carrel + and Melchior Anderegg, with two porters.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">24</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 4-5</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">M. C. Brevoort.<br /> + W. A. B. Coolidge.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Zermatt to Breil</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Ch. Almer, + Ulr. Almer, and N. Knubel.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">25</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 7-8</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">R. Fowler</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. M. + Lochmatter and P. Knubel.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">1872.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">26</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 22-23</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">F. Gardiner.<br /> + T. Middlemore.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Zermatt to + Breil</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. + Maquignaz, Peter Knubel, and Johann Jaun.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">27</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 21</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">H. Bicknell</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">?</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Not + known.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">28</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 24-25</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">R. Pendlebury.<br /> + W. M. Pendlebury.<br /> + C. Taylor.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Zermatt to + Breil</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Peter + Taugwalder</span> <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-style: italic">fils</span></span><span style="font-size: 75%">, + Gabriel Spechtenhauser, and F. Imseng.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">29</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 26</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. Jackson</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Breil to + Zermatt</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Jos. + Maquignaz and Anton Ritz.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">30</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July ?</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">F. A. Wallroth</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">?</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Not + known.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">31</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 29-30</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">A. Rothschild</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Franz Biener + and two Knubels.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">32</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 1-2</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">G. A. Passingham</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—F. Imseng + and Franz Andermatten.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">33</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 9-10</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">H. Denning.<br /> + E. Hutchins.<br /> + J. Young.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Melchior + Schlapp, Peter Rubi, and two Knubels.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">34</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 10-11</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">L. Saunderson</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Peter Bohren + and Peter Knubel.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">35</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 11-12</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">E. Millidge</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guide— — + Pollinger.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">36</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 11-12</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">D. J. Abercromby</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—N. Knubel + and P. J. Knubel.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">37</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 16-17</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">C. Bronzet</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—P. Knubel, + F. Truffer, and J. Truffer.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">1873.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">38</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 6-7</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">T. Cox.<br /> + J. Gardiner.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Peter Knubel + and J. M. Lochmatter.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">39</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 6-7</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">C. Théraulaz</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. Gillot + and Ignace Sarbach.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">40</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 21-22</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">A. F. Leach</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—P. + Taugwalder</span> <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-style: italic">fils</span></span> + <span style="font-size: 75%">and J. M. + Kronig.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">41</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 21-22</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">T. A. Bishop</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—P. Knubel, + P. J. Knubel, and F. Devouassoud.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">42</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 23-24</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">H. Salmond</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Not + known.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">43</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 23-24</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">A. G. Puller.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Breil to + Zermatt</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. A. Carrel + and Jos. Maquignaz.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">44</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 25-26</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">E. Leatham</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—P. Knubel + and Joseph Imboden.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">45</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 25-27</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">W. W. Simpson</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Breil to + Zermatt</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. A. + Carrel, P. Maquignaz, and a Chamounix + guide.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">46</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 29-30</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">M. Déchy</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">G<span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">uides—J. A. Carrel + and P. Taugwalder</span> <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%; font-style: italic"> + fils</span></span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">47</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 3</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. Bischoff.<br /> + E. Burckhardt.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">48</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 6-7</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Emile Veyrin</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—P. J. + Knubel; porter, Joh. Knubel.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">49</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 9-10</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">L. Ewbank</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. M. and + Alex. Lochmatter.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">50</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 11</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">G. E. Hulton.<br /> + F. C. Hulton.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Ch. Lauener, + Johann Fischer, and Peter Rubi.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">51</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 11-12</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Marquis Maglioni</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—P. Knubel, + Edouard Capelin; porter H. Knubel.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">52</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 14-15</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">F. Dawkins</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Franz + Andermatten, A. Burgener; porter, Abraham + Imseng.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">53</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 15-16</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. F. Bramston.<br /> + F. Morshead.<br /> + C. H. Hawkins.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Melchior + Anderegg, B. Nageli, and J. M. Lochmatter.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">54</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 16</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">H. S. Hoare</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Johann von + Bergen and A. Pollinger.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">55</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 18-22</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">E. Pigeon.<br /> + — Pigeon.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Breil to + Zermatt</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. A. + Carrel, V. Maquignaz, and J. Martin. This party was confined + in the hut on the Italian side from the 18th to the 21st of + August, by bad weather; and in descending upon the Zermatt + side it was surprised by night before the</span> <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-style: italic">cabane</span></span> + <span style="font-size: 75%">could be reached, and had to + pass the night on the open mountain-side.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">56</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 22-23</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">F. P. Barlow</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Jakob + Anderegg and P. Taugwalder</span> <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-style: italic">fils</span></span><span style="font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">57</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Oct 2-3</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">W. W. Stuart</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Breil to + Zermatt</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Jos. + Maquignaz, F. Bic, and Jos. Balmat.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">1874.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">58</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 14-15</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">T. G. Bonney</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. M. + Lochmatter and J. Petrus.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">59</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 17-18</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">F. Wolf</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—A. Pollinger + and Jos. Lauber.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">60</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 18-19</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">A. Millot and wife</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Melchior + Anderegg, A. Maurer, and P. Taugwalder</span> <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-style: italic">fils</span></span><span style="font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">61</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July ?</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">H. Lamb</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">?</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Not + known.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">62</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 19-20</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. Baumann</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guide-Ulrich + Lauener.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">63</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 23-24</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">? E. Javelle</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Breil to + Zermatt</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">64</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 27-29</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">L. K. Rankine</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—A. Pollinger + and Jos. Längen.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">65</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 7</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. Birkbeck, Jun.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Breil to + Breil</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. Petrus + and J. B. Bic. Mr. Birkbeck and his guides started from + Breil, crossed the mountain to the northern side, and + returned to Breil, in 19 hours.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">66</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 7-8</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">G. F. Cobb.<br /> + S. Forster.<br /> + A. M. Tod.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—P. + Taugwalder</span> <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-style: italic">fils</span></span><span style="font-size: 75%">, + Jos. Taugwalder, and A. Summermatter.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">67</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 7-8</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">M. Bramston</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guide—B. + Nageli.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">68</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 12</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">G. Dévin</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—L. Pollinger + and Henri Séraphin.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">69</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 19-20</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">L. N. Walford</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Alex. + Burgener and B. Venetz.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">70</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 20-21</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">A. D. Puckle</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. Petrus + and N. Knubel.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">71</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 20-21</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">R. Lindt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Ig. Sarbach + and Peter Sulzer.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">72</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 20-22</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Edward Whymper</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. A. + Carrel, J. B. Bic, and J. M. Lochmatter. An ascent made for + the sake of photography. Passed two nights in the + Zermatt</span> <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-style: italic">cabane</span></span><span style="font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">73</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 22-23</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">W. E. Davidson</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Laurent + Lanier and Ig. Sarbach.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">74</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 23</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Prof. G. B——<br /> + Prof. K——</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">?</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—P. + Maquignaz, E. Pession, and Chas. Gorret. Account is + illegible.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">75</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 25</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">F. W. Headley.<br /> + E. P. Arnold.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—A. Pollinger + and J. J. Truffer.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">76</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 25</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">H. J. Smith</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Alex. + Lochmatter and Jos. Längen.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">77</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 25</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">M. J. Boswell</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Jos. Imboden + and Jos. Sarbach.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">78</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 26</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">W. J. Lewis</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Moritz Julen + and Jos. Taugwalder.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">79</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 27</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">W. Stirling</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Johann + Petrus and Franz Burgener.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">80</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 28</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. H. Pratt.<br /> + — Prothero.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. A. Carrel + and P. Knubel. Ascent made in one day.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">81</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 31</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">H. N. Malan</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Jean Martin + and A. Lochmatter.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">82</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 1-2</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">W. A. Lewis</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. M. + Lochmatter and P. Imboden.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">83</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 2</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">E. Dent.<br /> + C. T. Dent.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guide—A. + Burgener.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">84</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 2</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. W. Borel</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—A. Pollinger + and J. J. Truffer.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">85</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 3</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Ernst Calbenla</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—P. Bohren + and P. Müller.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">86</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 8</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">A. H. Simpson.<br /> + M. Cullinan.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—P. Knubel, + P. J. Knubel, and P. Truffer.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">87</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 8</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">A. H. Burton</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—P. Baumann, + P. Taugwalder, and B. Nageli.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">88</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 9</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">E. Pigeon.<br /> + — Pigeon.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—N. and J. + Knubel, and F. Sarbach.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">89</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 16-17</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">W. Nägeli</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. and P. + Knubel.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">1875.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">90</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">May 10</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">— Corona</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">?</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. A. Carrel + and J. J. Maquignaz. Account is perfectly + illegible.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">91</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 2-3</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">L. Brioschi</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—F. and A. + Imseng and P. J.</span> <a name="corr319" id="corr319" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">Andermatten.</span></span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">92</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 10</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. W. Hartley</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—P. Rubi and + J. Moser.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">93</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 10-11</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">F. T. Wethered</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Ch. Almer + and A. Pollinger.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">94</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 11</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">A. Fairbanks.<br /> + W. Fairbanks.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guide—J. Perrn, and + a porter.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">95</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 12</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">D. L. Pickman</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. + Taugwalder and F. Biener. Ascent made in one + day.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">96</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 16</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">D. Merritt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—No + information.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">97</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 16</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">E. Hornby</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—A. and F. + Pollinger.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">98</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 16</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. J. Morgan.<br /> + C. L. Morgan.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. Imboden + and J. Sarbach.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">99</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 16</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">A. W. Payne</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guide—J. + Taugwalder.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">100</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 17</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. H. Pratt.<br /> + W. Leaf.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Breil to + Zermatt</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. A. Carrel + and N. Knubel.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">101</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 19-20</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">F. Tendron.<br /> + G. F. Vernon.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—F. and P. + Sarbach and J. Taugwalder.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">102</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 23-24</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">H. R. Whitehouse</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—P. J. Knubel + and P. T. Truffer.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">103</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 26-27</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">F. Morshead.<br /> + A. O. Prickard.<br /> + H. S. Wilson.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—M. Anderegg, + Ch. Lauener, and J. Moser.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">104</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 7</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">H. G. Gotch</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Ig. and Jos. + Sarbach.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">105</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 8</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">R. King</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. A. Carrel + and Jos. Coulter, and (porter) A. Payot.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">106</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 8</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">H. Loschge</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Breil to + Zermatt</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. Petrus + and A. Ranier.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">107</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 9</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">P. Methuen</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Johann Jaun + and A. Maurer.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">108</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 14</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">— Butter</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Jos. Imboden + and J. Brantschen.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">109</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 15</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">W. Kittan</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. Petrus + and Franz Burgener.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">1876.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">110</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 22-23</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">A. H. Cawood.<br /> + J. B. Colgrove.<br /> + A. Cust.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Without guides, and + with two porters.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">111</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 29</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. Hazel.<br /> + W. F. Loverell.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—P. Maquignaz + and F. Zuber.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">112</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">July 30</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Eug. Dacqué</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Borren + (Bohren?) and Platter (?).</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">113</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 3-4</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">F. Corbett.<br /> + M. Courtenay.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—F. Burgener, + P. Taugwalder</span> <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-style: italic">fils</span></span><span style="font-size: 75%">, + and J. Taugwalder.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">114</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 3-4</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">P. A. Singer.<br /> + P. A. Singer.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. Imboden, + Jos. Perrn, P. Perrn, and F. Perrn + (porter).</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">115</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 6-7</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">D. E. Cardinal</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Pierre + Carrel and Louis Carrel.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">116</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 7</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">F. Reiners.<br /> + M. Haushofer.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—P. and J. + Knubel.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">117</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 8-9</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">H. de Saussure</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—A. Burgener + and J. Knubel.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">118</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 8-9</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">W. Cooke</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Louis Carrel + and Pierre Carrel.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">119</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 8-9</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. J. Bischoff</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. Petrus, + P. T. Truffer, and another.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">120</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 9</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Joseph Seiler</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides— — Lauber + and ? An one day ascent.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">121</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 9-10</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">W. J. Whelpdale.<br /> + C. Weightmann.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. M. + Lochmatter, A. Ritz, and Jos. Brantschen as + porter.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">122</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 10</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">P. Watson</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Alex. + Burgener and B. Venetz.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">123</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 12</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">S. Waller.<br /> + G. Fitzgerald.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. M. + Lochmatter and J. Lauber.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">124</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 12</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">H. Meyer.<br /> + C. Estertag.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Jos. + Brantschen, P. J. Knubel, and Jos. + Taugwalder.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">125</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 12</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. Jackson.<br /> + T. H. Kitson.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Christian + and Ulrich Almer. Ascent in one day.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">126</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 12</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Jos. Nantermod</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—A. Pollinger + and B. Andenmatten.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">127</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 14</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">C. E. Mathews.<br /> + F. Morshead.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—M. Anderegg + and ? Ascent made in one day.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">128</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">(?)</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">— Dent.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guide—Alex. + Burgener.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">129</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 28-29</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">G. W. Prothero.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Zermatt to + Breil</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guide—J. A. + Carrel.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">1877.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">130</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 4</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">O. Boenaud.<br /> + G. Mermod.<br /> + L. Mermod.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—No + information.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">131</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 13-14</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Q. Sella.<br /> + L. Biraghi.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Zermatt to + Breil</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. A. + Carrel, — Imseng, J. B. Carrel, Louis Carrel, Jos. and Vict. + Maquignaz, etc. etc.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">132</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 19</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">W. H. Grenfell.<br /> + J. H. A. Peebles.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Breil</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides— — Imseng + and ?</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">133</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 20</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">W. Penhall</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Jos. Imboden + and P. Taugwalder</span> <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%; font-style: italic"> + fils</span></span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">134</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 24-25</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">G. Fitzgerald</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. M. + Lochmatter and Joseph Lauber.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">135</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 29</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. A. Cooper</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Alex and + Alois Burgener.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">136</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 30</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. D. Griffiths</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Basile + Andenmatten and ?</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">137</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 30</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. F. Yearsley</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—F. Burgener, + P. Andenmatten, and (porter) — Blumenthal.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">138</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 30-31</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. C. Leman</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides— — Pollinger + and ?</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">139</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 30-31</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">T. de Cambray Digny</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Zermatt to + Breil</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. A. Carrel + and Henri Séraphin.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">140</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 4</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. Freitschke</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guide—Basile + Andenmatten.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">141</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 4-5</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">H. Loschge</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt to Breil</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Alex. + Burgener and a Tyrol guide.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">142</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 6-7</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. Nérot</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Breil to + Zermatt</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. A. + Carrel, a Chamounix guide, and a porter.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">1878.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">143</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">?</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">T. Jose</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. M. + Lochmatter, P. Knubel, and Pierre Truffer.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">144</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 7</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Carl Hecke</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guide—Basile + Andenmatten.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">145</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 9</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Jules Seiler</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—P. Knubel + and Basile Andenmatten.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">146</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 21</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Dr. Minnigerode</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. M. + Lochmatter and J.</span> <a name="corr321" id="corr321" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a><span class= + "tei tei-corr"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">Taugwalder.</span></span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">147</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 11-12</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">C. J. Thompson</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. A. Carrel + and — Imseng.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">1879.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">148</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 12-13</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Dr. Lüscher.<br /> + Prof. Schiess.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Up Breil side <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">and down Zermatt + side.</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. M. + Lochmatter, Jos. Brantschen, and Petryson (Evolena). + Brantschen was left behind in the hut on the</span> + <span class="tei tei-q"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">“</span><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%; font-style: italic">cravate</span></span><span style="font-size: 75%">,</span><span style="font-size: 75%">”</span></span> + <span style="font-size: 75%">and died + there.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">149</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 13</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">W. W. R. Powell</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Peter + Taugwalder</span> <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-style: italic">fils</span></span> + <span style="font-size: 75%">and A. + Imseng.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">150</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 13-14</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">C. E. Freeman</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Breil to + Zermatt</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—J. A. Carrel + and—Sopersac (Saas).</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">151</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 13-14</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">A. E. Craven.<br /> + W. O. Moseley.</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—P. Rubi and + C. Inabnit. Dr. Moseley lost his life in descending the + mountain. See</span> <a href="#Pg313" class= + "tei tei-ref"><span style="font-size: 75%">Appendix</span> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%; font-weight: 700">D</span></span></a><span style="font-size: 75%">.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">152</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 28-29</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">C. E. B. Watson</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Zermatt to + Breil</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—P. Anderegg + and A. Imboden.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">153</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Aug. 30-Sept. 1</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">G. H. Savage</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Jos. Imboden + and Franz Andermatten. Dr. Savage slept on the Hörnli Aug. + 30; began the ascent by moonlight at a little before 2</span> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> <span style= + "font-size: 75%">on Sept. 1, reached the summit at + 6.30</span> <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span><span style= + "font-size: 75%">, and returned to Zermatt by 12.30</span> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">154</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 2-3</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">A. F. Mummery</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Z’Mutt side</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Mr. Mummery was the + first to ascend the Matterhorn from the side of the Z’Mutt + Glacier. No details have been received.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">155</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 2-3</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">W. Penhall</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Z’Mutt side</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Ferdinand + Imseng and Louis Sorbrichen. Mr. Penhall also made his ascent + upon the Z’Mutt side, but took a route more to the south than + that followed by Mr. Mummery.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">156</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 4-5</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">B. Wainewright</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Zermatt to + Breil</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Jos. Imboden + and Peter Sarbach.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">157</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 4-5</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">H. Hoare</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Zermatt</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guide—J. Anderegg + and (porter) Jos. Chanton.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">158</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Sept. 5-6</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. Baumann</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">Z’Mutt side</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—Petrus + (Stalden) and Emile Rey. Mr. Mummery’s route was + followed.</span></span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-row"> + <td class="tei tei-cell" style="text-align: right">159</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">?</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell">J. Maurer</td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Breil to + Zermatt</span></span></td> + + <td class="tei tei-cell"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">Guides—? No + information.</span></span></td> + </tr> + </tbody> + </table> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The above table + is known to be imperfect, and the Author will be obliged if + correspondents will enable him to correct and extend it. + Communications should be addressed to him <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Care of the + Publisher</span></span>.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page323">[pg 323]</span><a name= + "Pg323" id="Pg323" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc61" id= + "toc61"></a> <a name="pdf62" id="pdf62"></a> + + <h2 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 144%; font-weight: 700">G.</span></span> <span class= + "tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 144%; font-variant: small-caps">Courte Note sur la + Géologie du Matterhorn.</span></span> <span class="tei tei-hi" + style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 144%; font-variant: small-caps">Par Signor F. + Giordano</span></span><span style="font-size: 144%">, Ingénieur en + Chef des Mines d’Italie, etc. etc.</span></h2> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Le Matterhorn ou + Mont Cervin est formé depuis la base jusqu’au sommet de roches + stratifiées en bancs assez réguliers, qui sont tous légèrement + rélevés vers l’Est, savoir vers le Mont Rose. Ces roches + quoiqu’évidemment d’origine sédimentaire ont une structure + fortement cristalline qui doit être l’effet d’une puissante action + de métamorphisme très développée dans cette région des Alpes. Dans + la série des roches constituantes du Mont Cervin l’on peut faire + une distinction assez marquée, savoir celles formant la base + inférieure de la montagne, et celles formant le pic proprement + dit.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Les roches de la + base qu’on voit dans le Val Tournanche, dans le vallon de Z’Mutt, + au col de Théodule et ailleurs, sont en général des schistes + talqueux, serpentineux, chloriteux, et amphiboliques, alternant + fort souvent avec des schistes calcaires à noyaux quartzeux. Ces + schistes calcaires de couleur brunâtre alternent ça et là avec des + dolomies, des cargueules, et des quartzites tégulaires. Cette + formation calcaréo-serpentineuse est très étendue dans les + environs. Le pic au contraire est tout formé d’un gneiss talqueux, + souvent à gros éléments, alternant parfois à quelques bancs de + schistes talqueux et quartzeux, mais sans bancs calcaires. Vers le + pied ouest du pic, le gneiss est remplacé par de l’euphotide + granitoïde massive, qui semble y former une grosse lentille se + fondant de tous côtés dans le gneiss même. Du reste, les roches du + Cervin montrent partout des exemples fort instructifs de passages + graduels d’une structure à l’autre, résultant du métamorphisme plus + ou moins avancé.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Le pic actuel + n’est que le reste d’une puissante formation géologique ancienne, + triasique peut-être, dont les couches puissantes de plus de 3500 + mètres enveloppaient tout autour comme un immense manteau le grand + massif granitoïde et feldspathique du Mont Rose. Aussi son étude + détaillée, qui par exception est rendue fort facile par la + profondeur des vallons d’où il surgit, donne la clef de la + structure géologique de beaucoup d’autres montagnes des environs. + On y voit partout le phénomène assez curieux d’une puissante + formation talqueuse très cristalline, presque granitoïde, + régulièrement superposée à une formation schisteuse et calcarifère. + Cette même constitution géologique est en partie la cause de la + forme aiguë et de l’isolement du pic qui en font la merveille des + voyageurs. En effet, tandis que les roches feuilletées de la base, + étant facilement corrodées par l’action des météores et de l’eau, + ont été facilement creusées en vallées larges et profondes, la + roche supérieure qui constitue la pyramide donne lieu par sa dureté + à des fendillements formant des parois escarpées qui conservent au + pic ce profil élancé, et caractéristique alpin. Les glaciers qui + entourent son pied de tous les côtés, en emportant d’une manière + continue les débris tombant de ses flancs, contribuent pour leur + part à maintenir cet isolement de la merveilleuse pyramide qui sans + eux serait peut-être déjà ensevelie sous ses propres + ruines.</p><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page324">[pg + 324]</span><a name="Pg324" id="Pg324" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-variant: small-caps">References to + the Geological Section of the Matterhorn.</span></span></p> + + <table summary="This is a list." class="tei tei-list" style= + "margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + <tbody> + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">I. </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Gneiss talqueux quartzifère. + Beaucoup de traces de foudres.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">II. </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Banc de 3 à 4 mètres de schistes + serpentineux et talqueux verts.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">III. </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Gneiss talqueux à éléments plus ou + moins schisteux, avec quelque lit de quartzite.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">” </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Gneiss et micaschistes ferrugineux à + éléments très fins, beaucoup de traces de foudre.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">IV. </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Gneiss alternant avec des schistes + talqueux et à des felsites en zones blanches et grises.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">V. </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Petite couche de schistes + serpentineux, vert sombre.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">VI. </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Gneiss et micaschiste avec zones + quartzifères rubanées.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">VII. </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Gneiss talqueux à éléments + schisteux.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">VIII. </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Id.</span></span> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">id.</span></span> verdâtre, porphyroïde + à éléments moyens.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">IX. </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Gneiss talqueux granitoïde à gros + éléments et avec des cristaux de feldspath.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">X. </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Schistes grisâtres.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">XI. </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Micaschistes ferrugineux.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">XII. </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Gneiss talqueux vert sombre.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">XIII. </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Gneiss et schistes quartzeux, + couleur vert clair.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">XIV. </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Euphotide massive (feldspath et + diallage) à éléments cristallins bien développés, traversée + par des veines d’eurite blanchâtre. Cette roche forme un banc + ou plutôt une lentille de plus de 500 mètres de puissance + intercalée au gneiss talqueux.<a id="noteref_270" name= + "noteref_270" href="#note_270"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">270</span></span></a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">XV. </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Gneiss talqueux alternant avec des + schistes talqueux et micacés.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">XVI. </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Schistes compactes, couleur vert + clair.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">XVII. </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Calcaire cristallin micacé + (calcschiste) avec veines et rognons de quartz. Il alterne + avec des schistes verts chloriteux et serpentineux.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">XVIII. </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Schistes verts chloriteux, + serpentineux et talqueux, avec des masses stéatiteuses.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">XIX. </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Calcschistes (comme ci-dessus) + formant un banc de plus de 100 mètres.<a id="noteref_271" + name="noteref_271" href="#note_271"><span class= + "tei tei-noteref"><span style= + "font-size: 60%; vertical-align: super">271</span></span></a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">XX. </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Schistes verts chloriteux.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">XXI. </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Calcschistes (comme ci-dessus).</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">XXII. </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Il suit ci-dessous une série fort + puissante de schistes verts serpentineux, chloriteux, + talqueux et stéatiteux alternant encore avec des + calcschistes. En plusieurs localités les schistes deviennent + très amphiboliques à petits cristaux noirs. Cette puissante + formation calcaréo-serpentineuse repose inférieurement sur + des micaschistes et des gneiss anciens.</td> + </tr> + </tbody> + </table><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page325">[pg + 325]</span><a name="Pg325" id="Pg325" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><a name="plate14" id="plate14" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus372.png" alt= + "Illustration: Geological section of the Matterhorn (Mont Cervin)" + title= + "GEOLOGICAL SECTION OF THE MATTERHORN. (MONT CERVIN)BY SIGNOR F. GIORDANO." /> + + <div class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + GEOLOGICAL SECTION OF THE MATTERHORN. (MONT CERVIN)<br /> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style= + "text-align: center"><span style="font-size: 75%">BY SIGNOR F. + GIORDANO.</span></span> + </div> + </div><span class="tei tei-pb" id="page326">[pg 326]</span><a name= + "Pg326" id="Pg326" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-pb" id="page327">[pg 327]</span><a name= + "Pg327" id="Pg327" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="toc63" id= + "toc63"></a> <a name="pdf64" id="pdf64"></a> + + <h2 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 144%; font-weight: 700">H.</span></span> <span class= + "tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 144%; font-variant: small-caps">Professor Tyndall and + the Matterhorn.</span></span></h2> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In the second + edition of Tyndall’s <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Hours of Exercise in the Alps</span></span> + the Professor made some additional remarks upon his defeat in 1862, + and to these remarks I replied in No. 35 of the <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Alpine + Journal</span></span>. I do not feel that the additional + information afforded in these publications possesses the least + interest to the majority of my readers, and therefore I do not + reprint it; and I refer to it only for the sake of those who may be + desirous to pursue the subject.</p><a name="ill325" id="ill325" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="fig91" id="fig91" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/illus374.png" alt= + "Illustration: “The things which tumble about the ears of unwary travellers”" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-hi" style="text-align: center"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, + STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.</span></span></p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc65" id="toc65"></a> <a name="pdf66" id="pdf66"></a> + + <h2 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">THE MATTERHORN AND ITS + GLACIERS</span></h2><a name="map1" id="map1" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/map1thumb.jpg" alt= + "Map: The Matterhorn and its glaciers" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href= + "images/map1.jpg" class="tei tei-xref" style= + "text-align: center">(larger version)</a></p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc67" id="toc67"></a> <a name="pdf68" id="pdf68"></a> + + <h2 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">THE VALLEY OF + ZERMATT</span></h2><a name="map2" id="map2" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em"></p> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"><img src= + "images/map2thumb.jpg" alt= + "Map: The Valley of Zermatt; and the Central Pennine Alps" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 1.00em"><a href= + "images/map2.jpg" class="tei tei-xref" style= + "text-align: center">(larger version)</a></p> + </div> + </div> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <a name="toc69" id="toc69"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">Footnotes</span></h1> + + <dl class="tei tei-list-footnotes"> + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_1" name="note_1" href= + "#noteref_1">1.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">In the lower diagram the tins are + shown as they appear when packed for travelling. I generally + carry them at the top of a knapsack, outside.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_2" name="note_2" href= + "#noteref_2">2.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">I extract from No. 63 of the + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Alpine + Journal</span></span> the following note by Gustav de Veh, a + retired Russian officer, upon the prevention of snow-blindness. + <span class="tei tei-q">“We were on the march home along the + mountain plains, when, dazzled by the intense sun-rays reflected + by the endless snow-fields we were marching along, my eyelids + lost all power to open; I felt my elbow touched, and, looking + through my fingers, I beheld one of our friendly highlanders + preparing a kind of black paste by mixing gunpowder with snow. + The General told me to let him do what he wanted. The Circassian + applied the black stuff under my eyes, on my cheeks, and to the + sides of my nose. To my astonishment I could then open my eyes, + and felt no more difficulty to see plainly and clearly + everything. I have tried that experiment many times since, and it + never failed to relieve me, although I used common Indian-ink and + black water-colour, instead of the above-mentioned + paste.”</span></dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_3" name="note_3" href= + "#noteref_3">3.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">I understand that scarcely any nails + wore found in the boots of Dr. Moseley, who lost his life + recently on the Matterhorn, and this fact sufficiently accounts + for the accident.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_4" name="note_4" href= + "#noteref_4">4.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The author of <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Travels in + Alaska</span></span>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_5" name="note_5" href= + "#noteref_5">5.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The Riffel hotel (the starting-point + for the ascent of Monte Rosa), a deservedly popular inn, leased + to Monsieur Seiler, the hotel proprietor of Zermatt, is placed at + a height of 3100 feet above that village (8400 above the sea), + and commands a superb panoramic view. The house has continually + grown, and it can now accommodate a large number of persons. In + 1879, it was connected by telegraph with the rest of + Switzerland.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_6" name="note_6" href= + "#noteref_6">6.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The highest of the + Mischabelhörner.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_7" name="note_7" href= + "#noteref_7">7.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The temperature at the St. Bernard + in the winter is frequently 40° Fahr. below freezing-point. + January is their coldest month. See Dollfus-Ausset’s <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Matériaux pour + l’étude des Glaciers</span></span>, vols. vi. and vii.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_8" name="note_8" href= + "#noteref_8">8.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">There was not a pass between + Prerayen and Breil. See <a href="#note105" class= + "tei tei-ref">note to p. 105</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_9" name="note_9" href= + "#noteref_9">9.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">This pass is called usually the Va + Cornère. It is also known as the Gra Cornère; which is, I + believe, patois for Grand Cornier. It is mentioned in the first + volume of the second series of <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Peaks, Passes, and + Glaciers</span></span>, and in Chapters <a href="#Pg088" class= + "tei tei-ref">V.</a> and <a href="#Pg259" class= + "tei tei-ref">XVIII.</a> of this volume.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_10" name="note_10" + href="#noteref_10">10.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">I had been sent to the Val Louise to + illustrate this ascent.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_11" name="note_11" + href="#noteref_11">11.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Since that time a decent house has + been built on the summit of this pass. The old vaulted hospice + was erected for the benefit of the pilgrims who formerly crossed + the pass <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">en route</span></span> for Rome.—Joanne’s + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Itinéraire du Dauphiné</span></span>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_12" name="note_12" + href="#noteref_12">12.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See the <a href="#fig49" class= + "tei tei-ref">Map in Chap. VIII</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_13" name="note_13" + href="#noteref_13">13.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The depth of the valleys is so great + that the sun not only is not seen for more than a few hours per + day during the greatest portion of the year, but in some + places—at Villard d’Arène and at Andrieux for example—it is not + seen at all for one hundred days.—Lodoucette’s <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Hautes-Alpes</span></span>, p. 599.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_14" name="note_14" + href="#noteref_14">14.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Sometimes called the Aiguille du + Midi de la Grave, or the Aiguille de la Medje.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_15" name="note_15" + href="#noteref_15">15.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The maps of the Dauphiné Alps to + Ball’s <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Guide to the Western Alps</span></span>, and + to Joanne’s <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Itinéraire du Dauphiné</span></span>, must + be excepted. These maps are, however, on too small a scale for + travelling purposes.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_16" name="note_16" + href="#noteref_16">16.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“Faits pour servir à l’Histoire des Montagnes de + l’Oisans,”</span> by Elie de Beaumont, in the <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Annales des + Mines</span></span>.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Norway and its + Glaciers; followed by Excursions in the High Alps of + Dauphiné.</span></span> By J. D. Forbes.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The + following works also treat more or less of the districts + referred to in this chapter:—</p> + + <table summary="This is a list." class="tei tei-list" style= + "margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + <tbody> + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Outline + Sketches in the High Alps of Dauphiné</span></span>, by + T. G. Bonney.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Histoire + des Hautes-Alpes</span></span>, by J. C. F. + Ladoucette.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Itinéraire + du Dauphiné</span></span>, by Adolphe Joanne (2nd + part).</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Tour du + Monde, 1860</span></span>, edited by Ed. Charton.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">The Israel + of the Alps</span></span>, by Alexis Muston.</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">A Memoir of + Felix Neff</span></span>, by W. S. Gilly.</td> + </tr> + </tbody> + </table> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Good + pictures of Dauphiné scenery are to be found in <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Voyages + Pittoresques dans l’ancienne France</span></span>, by Ch. + Nodier, J. Taylor, and A. de Cailleux, and in Lord Monson’s + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Views + in the Departments of the Isère and the High + Alps</span></span>.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_17" name="note_17" + href="#noteref_17">17.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">M. Puiseux took for guide a man + named Pierre Bornéoud, of Claux in the Val Louise; who had + accompanied Captain Durand in 1828. In 1861, the expedition of M. + Puiseux was quite forgotten in the Val Louise. I am indebted to + M. Puiseux for the above and other details.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_18" name="note_18" + href="#noteref_18">18.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">This is a common saying in Dauphiné. + It means that there is usually less snow on the mountains during + these days than at any other time of the year. The natives have + an almost childish dread of venturing upon snow or glaciers, and + hence the period of minimum snow seems to them to be the most + favourable time for excursions.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_19" name="note_19" + href="#noteref_19">19.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#Pg145" class= + "tei tei-ref">Chapter VII</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_20" name="note_20" + href="#noteref_20">20.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Monte Viso is not seen from the + Lautaret Road. That this is so is seen when one crosses the Col + du Galibier, on the south side of which pass the Monte Viso is + visible for a short time.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_21" name="note_21" + href="#noteref_21">21.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">It became a regular business. + <span class="tei tei-q">“We find amongst the current accounts of + the Bailiff of Embrun this singular article—<span class= + "tei tei-q">‘<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Item, for persecuting the Vaudois, eight + sols and thirty deniers of + gold.</span></span>’</span> ”</span>—Muston, vol. i. p. 38.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_22" name="note_22" + href="#noteref_22">22.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">On the 22d of May 1393, eighty + persons of the valleys of Freissinières and Argentière, and one + hundred and fifty persons of the Val Louise, were burnt at + Embrun.—Muston, vol. i. p. 41.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_23" name="note_23" + href="#noteref_23">23.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See Morland’s <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">History of the + Evangelical Churches of Piedmont</span></span>, 1658; Cromwell’s + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Acts</span></span>, 1658; and Burton’s + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Diary</span></span>, 1828.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_24" name="note_24" + href="#noteref_24">24.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The commune of the Val Louise + contains at the present time about 3400 inhabitants. This crétin + population has been aptly described by M. Elisée Reclus in the + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Tour du + Monde</span></span>, 1860. He says:—<span class="tei tei-q">“They + attain the highest possible development of their intelligence in + their infancy, and—abundantly provided with majestic goîtres, + which are lengthened and swollen by age—are in this respect like + to the ourangoutangs, who have nothing more to acquire after the + age of three years. At the age of five years the little crétins + have already the placid and mature expression which they ought to + keep all their lives.... They wear trousers, and coats with + tails, and a large black hat.”</span></dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_25" name="note_25" + href="#noteref_25">25.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"><span class="tei tei-q">“The nucleus + of the <span class="tei tei-q">‘massif’</span> is a line + protogine, divided by nearly vertical + cracks.”</span>—<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Dollfus-Ausset.</span></span></dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_26" name="note_26" + href="#noteref_26">26.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">J. G. Whittier, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Snow-Bound.”</span></dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_27" name="note_27" + href="#noteref_27">27.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">M. Puiseux, on his expedition of + 1848, was surprised, when at breakfast on the side of the + mountain, by a mass of rock of more than a cubic yard falling + like a bomb at his side, which threw up splinters in all + directions.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_28" name="note_28" + href="#noteref_28">28.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This + mountain is the culminating point of the group, and is named on + the French map, Pointe des Ecrins. It is seen from the Val + Christophe, and from that direction its ridges completely + conceal Mont Pelvoux. On the other side—that is, from the + direction of La Bessée or the Val Louise—the reverse is the + case: the Pelvoux completely conceals it.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Unaware that + this name was going to be applied to it, we gave the name Pic + des Arcines or des Ecrins to our summit, in accordance with the + traditions of the natives.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_29" name="note_29" + href="#noteref_29">29.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">There are three cols or passes close + to Monte Viso on its northern side, which lead from the valley of + the Po into that of the Guil. The deep notch spoken of above is + the nearest to the mountain, and although it is by far the lowest + gap in that part of the chain, and would seem to be the true Col + Viso, it does not appear to be used as a pass. The second, which + I crossed in 1860, has the name Col del Color del Porco given to + it upon the Sardinian map! The third is the Col de la + Traversette; and this, although higher than at least one of those + mentioned above, is that which is used by the natives who pass + from one valley to the other.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_30" name="note_30" + href="#noteref_30">30.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See Ladoucette’s <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Hautes-Alpes</span></span>, p. 596.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_31" name="note_31" + href="#noteref_31">31.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Frequently spelt Breuil.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_32" name="note_32" + href="#noteref_32">32.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See the <a href="#map1" class= + "tei tei-ref">Map of the Matterhorn and its Glaciers</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_33" name="note_33" + href="#noteref_33">33.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">There were no guides, properly + speaking, in this valley at that time, with the exception of one + or two Pessions and Pelissiers.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_34" name="note_34" + href="#noteref_34">34.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">This face is that on the right hand + of the large <a href="#plate03" class="tei tei-ref">engraving + opposite p. 46</a>. It is also represented, more prominently, in + the <a href="#plate10" class="tei tei-ref">engraving facing p. + 227</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_35" name="note_35" + href="#noteref_35">35.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Mr. Hawkins was unaware that any + attempts had been made before his own, and spoke of it as the + first.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_36" name="note_36" + href="#noteref_36">36.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Macmillan</span></span>, + 1861.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_37" name="note_37" + href="#noteref_37">37.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">This ridge is seen on the left of + the large <a href="#plate03" class="tei tei-ref">engraving + accompanying this chapter</a>; and if the reader consults this + view, the explanatory outlines, and the maps, he will be able to + form a fair idea of the points which were attained on this and on + the subsequent attempts.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_38" name="note_38" + href="#noteref_38">38.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Since this time the small peak has + received the name Tête du Lion. The gap is now called the Col du + Lion; the glacier at its base, the Glacier du Lion; and the gully + which connects the Col with the glacier, the Couloir du + Lion.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_39" name="note_39" + href="#noteref_39">39.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">By the kindness of its owner, Mr. F. + Tuckett.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_40" name="note_40" + href="#noteref_40">40.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#Pg301" class= + "tei tei-ref">Appendix A</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_41" name="note_41" + href="#noteref_41">41.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">A view of this place <a href= + "#plate04" class="tei tei-ref">faces p. 76</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_42" name="note_42" + href="#noteref_42">42.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The guide Bennen must be + excepted.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_43" name="note_43" + href="#noteref_43">43.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The <a href="#fig26" class= + "tei tei-ref">engraving</a> is made after a sketch taken from the + rocks of the Matterhorn just above the Col.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_44" name="note_44" + href="#noteref_44">44.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">J. G. Whittier.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_45" name="note_45" + href="#noteref_45">45.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Mr. Hawkins referred to this place + as one of excessive difficulty. He, however, found it coated with + ice; we found it free from ice.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_46" name="note_46" + href="#noteref_46">46.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">I learned afterwards from + Jean-Antoine Carrel that they got considerably higher than upon + their previous attempts, and about 250 or 300 feet higher than + Professor Tyndall in 1860. In 1862 I saw the initials of J. A. + Carrel cut on the rocks at the place where he and his comrade had + turned back.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_47" name="note_47" + href="#noteref_47">47.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">This man proved to be both willing + and useful on lower ground, and voluntarily accompanied me a + considerable distance out of his way, without fee or reward.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_48" name="note_48" + href="#noteref_48">48.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Alpine + Journal</span></span>, 1863, p. 82.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_49" name="note_49" + href="#noteref_49">49.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#Pg049" class= + "tei tei-ref">p. 49</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_50" name="note_50" + href="#noteref_50">50.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Mountaineering in + 1861</span></span>, pp. 86-7. Tyndall and Bennen were mistaken in + supposing that the mountain has two summits; it has only one. + They seem to have been deceived by the appearance of that part of + the south-west ridge which is called <span class="tei tei-q">“the + shoulder”</span> (l’épaule), as seen from Breil. Viewed from that + place, its southern end has certainly, through foreshortening, + the semblance of a peak; but when one regards it from the Col + Théodule, or from any place in the same direction, the delusion + is at once apparent.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_51" name="note_51" + href="#noteref_51">51.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The late Principal Forbes was + similarly situated while crossing the same pass in 1842. He + described the sounds as rustling, fizzing, and hissing. See his + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Travels + in the Alps of Savoy</span></span>, second ed., p. 323. Mr. R. + Spence Watson experienced the same upon the upper part of the + Aletsch glacier in July 1863, and he spoke of the sounds as + singing or hissing. See the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Athenæum</span></span>, Sept. 12, 1863. The + respective parties seem to have been highly electrified on each + occasion. Forbes says that his fingers <span class= + "tei tei-q">“yielded a fizzing sound;”</span> and Watson says + that his <span class="tei tei-q">“hair stood on end in an + uncomfortable but very amusing manner,”</span> and that + <span class="tei tei-q">“the veil on the wide-awake of one of the + party stood upright in the air!”</span></dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_52" name="note_52" + href="#noteref_52">52.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">I have described this tent at + length, as frequent application has been made to me for + information on the subject. I would strongly recommend any person + who wishes to have one for long-continued use, to have one made + under his own eye, and to be particularly careful to test the + poles. My experience goes to show that poles which (when + supported upon their extremities) will bear a dead weight of 100 + lbs. suspended from their centres, will stand any wind to which + they are likely to be submitted. Ash is, perhaps, the best wood + that can be selected. Tents of this pattern have been used, + amongst others, by Messrs. Freshfield, Moore, and Tucker, in the + Caucasus; by the Rev. W. H. Hawker in Corsica; and by myself in + Greenland.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_53" name="note_53" + href="#noteref_53">53.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The heights given on the <a href= + "#plate02" class="tei tei-ref">outlines of the Matterhorn + accompanying Chap. III.</a>, on the <a href="#plate14" class= + "tei tei-ref">geological section in the Appendix</a>, and quoted + throughout the book, are after the barometric (mercurial) + measurements of Signor F. Giordano in 1866 and 1868. I have + ventured to differ from him only in regard to the height of the + second tent-platform, and have assigned to it a somewhat lower + elevation than his estimate.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_54" name="note_54" + href="#noteref_54">54.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">During this time making the ascent + of Monte Rosa.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_55" name="note_55" + href="#noteref_55">55.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">They were not guides by + profession.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_56" name="note_56" + href="#noteref_56">56.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Those which + I collected were as follow:—<span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Myosotis + alpestris</span></span>, Gm.; <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Veronica + alpina</span></span>, L.; <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Linaria alpina</span></span>, M.; + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Gentiana Bavarica</span></span>, L.; + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Thlaspi rotundifolium</span></span>, + Gaud.; <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Silene acaulis</span></span>, L. (?); + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Potentilla</span></span> sp.; <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Saxifraga</span></span> sp.; <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Saxifraga + muscoides</span></span>, Wulf. I am indebted for these names to + Mr. William Carruthers of the British Museum. These plants + ranged from about 10,500 to a little below 13,000 feet, and are + the highest which I have seen anywhere in the Alps. Several + times this number of species might be collected, I have no + doubt, within these limits. I was not endeavouring to make a + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">flora</span></span> of the Matterhorn, but + to obtain those plants which attained the greatest height. Very + few lichens are seen on the higher parts of this mountain; + their rarity is due, doubtless, to the constant disintegration + of the rocks, and the consequent exposure of fresh surfaces. + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Silene acaulis</span></span> was the + highest plant found by De Saussure on his travels in the Alps. + He mentions (§ 2018) that he found a tuft <span class= + "tei tei-q">“near the place where I slept on my return (from + the ascent of Mont Blanc), about 1780 toises (11,388 feet) + above the level of the sea.”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Mr. William + Mathews and Mr. Charles Packe, who have botanised respectively + for many years in the Alps and Pyrenees, have favoured me with + the names of the highest plants that they have obtained upon + their excursions. Their lists, although not extensive, are + interesting as showing the extreme limits attained by some of + the hardiest of Alpine plants. Those mentioned by Mr. Mathews + are—<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Campanula renisia</span></span> (on the + Grivola, 12,047 feet); <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Saxifraga bryoides</span></span> and + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Androsace glacialis</span></span> (on the + summits of Mont Emilius, 11,677, and the Ruitor, 11,480); + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Ranunculus glacialis</span></span>, + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Armeria alpina</span></span>, and + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Pyrethrum alpinum</span></span> (on Monte + Viso, from 10,000 to 10,500 feet); <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Thlaspi + rotundifolium</span></span> and <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Saxifraga + biflora</span></span> (Monte Viso, about 9500 feet); and + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Campanula rotundifolia</span></span> (?), + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Artemisia spicata</span></span> (Wulf.), + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Aronicum Doronicum</span></span>, and + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Petrocallis Pyrenaica</span></span> (Col + de Seylières, 9247).</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Mr. Packe + obtained, on or close to the summit of the Pic de Mulhahacen, + Sierra Nevada, of Granada (11,600 to 11,700 feet), <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Papaver + alpinum</span></span> (var. <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Pyrenaicum</span></span>), <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Artemisia + Nevadensis</span></span> (used for giving the flavour to the + Manzanilla sherry), <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Viola Nevadensis</span></span>, + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Galium Pyrenaicum</span></span>, + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Trisetum glaciale</span></span>, + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Festuca Clementei</span></span>, + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Saxifraga Grœnlandica</span></span> (var. + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Mista</span></span>), <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Erigeron + alpinum</span></span> (var. <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">glaciale</span></span>), and <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Arenaria + tetraquetra</span></span>. On the Picacho de Veleta (11,440 + feet), and on the Alcazaba (11,350), the same plants were + obtained, with the exception of the first named. At a height of + 11,150 feet on these mountains he also collected <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Ptilotrichum + purpureum</span></span>, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Lepidium stylatum</span></span>, and + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Biscutella saxatilis</span></span>; and, + at 10,000 feet, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Alyssum spicatum</span></span> and + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Sideritis scordiodes</span></span>. Mr. + Packe mentions the following plants as occurring at 9000 to + 10,000 feet in the Pyrenees:—<span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Cerastium + latifolium</span></span>, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Draba Wahlenbergii</span></span>, + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Hutchinsia alpina</span></span>, + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Linaria alpina</span></span>, <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Oxyria + reniformis</span></span>, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Ranunculus glacialis</span></span>, + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Saxifraga nervosa</span></span>, + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">S. + oppositifolia</span></span>, <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">S. + Grœnlandica</span></span>, <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Statice + Armeria</span></span>, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Veronica alpina</span></span>.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Information + on the botany of the Val Tournanche is contained in the little + pamphlet by the late Canon G. Carrel, entitled <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">La Vallée de + Valtornenche en 1867</span></span>; and a list of the plants + which have hitherto been collected on the glacier-surrounded + ridge (Furgen Grat) connecting the Matterhorn with the Col + Théodule, will be found in Dollfus-Ausset’s <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Matériaux pour + l’étude des Glaciers</span></span>, vol. viii. part first, + 1868. In the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Jahrbuch</span></span> for 1873 of the + Swiss Alpine Club it is stated that on an ascent of the + Finsteraarhorn (14,106 feet) the following were collected + within the last 1000 feet:—<span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Saxifraga + bryoides</span></span>, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">S. Muscoides</span></span>, <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Achillea + atrata</span></span>, and <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Ranunculus glacialis</span></span>.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_57" name="note_57" + href="#noteref_57">57.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"><a name="notepg070" id="notepg070" + class="tei tei-anchor"></a>I have already had occasion to mention + the rapid changes which occur in the weather at considerable + elevations in the Alps, and shall have to do so again in + subsequent chapters. No one can regret more than myself the + variable weather which afflicts that otherwise delightful chain + of mountains, or the necessity of speaking about it: its summits + appear to enjoy more than their fair share of wind and tempests. + Meteorological disturbances, some would say, are by no means + necessary accompaniments of high regions. There are some happy + places which are said to be favoured with almost perpetual calm. + Take the case of the Sierra Nevada of California, for example, + which includes numerous summits from 13,000 to 15,000 feet. Mr. + Whitney, of San Francisco, says (in his <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Guide-book to the + Yosemite Valley, and the adjacent region</span></span>), + <span class="tei tei-q">“At high altitudes, all through the + mountains, the weather during the summer is almost always the + finest possible for travelling. There are occasional storms in + the high mountains; but, in ordinary seasons, these are quite + rare, and one of the greatest drawbacks to the pleasure of + travelling in the Alps, the uncertainty of the weather, is here + almost entirely wanting.”</span> It is probable that a more + thorough acquaintance with that region will modify this opinion; + for it must be admitted that it is very difficult to judge of the + state of the atmosphere at great heights from the valleys, and it + often occurs that a terrific storm is raging above when there is + a dead calm below, at a distance perhaps of not more than three + or four miles. A case of this kind is described in <a href= + "#Pg114" class="tei tei-ref">Chapter VI.</a>, and another may be + mentioned here. At the very time that I was regarding the Dent + Blanche from a height of 12,550 feet on the Matterhorn, Mr. T. S. + Kennedy was engaged in making the first ascent of the former + mountain. He described his ascent in a very picturesque paper in + the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Alpine Journal</span></span> (1863), and I + learn from it that he experienced severe weather. <span class= + "tei tei-q">“The wind roared over our ridge, making fearfully + wild music among the desolate crags.... It rendered an ordinary + voice inaudible,”</span> and <span class="tei tei-q">“nothing at + a distance greater than fifty yards could be seen at all.... + Thick mists and driving clouds of snow swept over and past + us;”</span> the thermometer fell to 20° Fahr., and his + companion’s hair became a mass of white icicles. Now, at this + time, Mr. Kennedy was distant from me only four and a half miles. + With me, and in my immediate neighbourhood, the air was perfectly + calm, and the temperature was agreeably warm; even during the + night it fell only two or three degrees below freezing-point. + During most of the day the Dent Blanche was perfectly unclouded, + though, for a time, light fleecy clouds were hovering about its + upper 2000 feet. Still no one would have supposed from + appearances that my friend was experiencing a storm such as he + has described.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_58" name="note_58" + href="#noteref_58">58.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See the engraving <a href="#plate08" + class="tei tei-ref"><span class="tei tei-q">“Crags of the + Matterhorn,”</span> facing p. 120</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_59" name="note_59" + href="#noteref_59">59.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">A remarkable streak of snow (marked + <span class="tei tei-q">“cravate”</span> in the <a href= + "#plate02" class="tei tei-ref">outline of the Matterhorn</a>, as + seen from the Théodule) runs across the cliff at this part of the + mountain. My highest point was somewhat higher than the lowest + part of this snow, and was consequently about 13,400 feet above + the sea.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_60" name="note_60" + href="#noteref_60">60.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">I received much attention from a + kind English lady who was staying in the inn.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_61" name="note_61" + href="#noteref_61">61.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">As it seldom + happens that one survives such a fall, it may be interesting to + record what my sensations were during its occurrence. I was + perfectly conscious of what was happening, and felt each blow; + but, like a patient under chloroform, experienced no pain. Each + blow was, naturally, more severe than that which preceded it, + and I distinctly remember thinking, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Well, if the next is harder still, that will be + the end!”</span> Like persons who have been rescued from + drowning, I remember that the recollection of a multitude of + things rushed through my head, many of them trivialities or + absurdities, which had been forgotten long before; and, more + remarkable, this bounding through space did not feel + disagreeable. But I think that in no very great distance more, + consciousness as well as sensation would have been lost, and + upon that I base my belief, improbable as it seems, that death + by a fall from a great height is as painless an end as can be + experienced.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The + battering was very rough, yet no bones were broken. The most + severe cuts were one of four inches long on the top of the + head, and another of three inches on the right temple: this + latter bled frightfully. There was a formidable-looking cut, of + about the same size as the last, on the palm of the left hand, + and every limb was grazed, or cut, more or less seriously. The + tips of the ears were taken off, and a sharp rock cut a + circular bit out of the side of the left boot, sock, and ankle, + at one stroke. The loss of blood, although so great, did not + seem to be permanently injurious. The only serious effect has + been the reduction of a naturally retentive memory to a very + common-place one; and although my recollections of more distant + occurrences remain unshaken, the events of that particular day + would be clean gone but for the few notes which were written + down before the accident.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_62" name="note_62" + href="#noteref_62">62.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">An incident like this goes far to + make one look favourably upon the <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">règlements</span></span> of Chamounix and + other places. This could not have occurred at Chamounix, nor + here, if there had been a <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">bureau des guides</span></span>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_63" name="note_63" + href="#noteref_63">63.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">This appeared to be the most + difficult part of the mountain. One was driven to keep to the + edge of the ridge, or very near to it; and at the point where we + turned back (which was almost as high as the <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">highest</span></span> part of the + <span class="tei tei-q">“cravate,”</span> and perhaps 100 feet + higher than my scramble on the 19th) there were smooth walls + seven or eight feet high in every direction, which were + impassable to a single man, and which could only be surmounted by + the assistance of ladders, or by using one’s comrades as + ladders.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_64" name="note_64" + href="#noteref_64">64.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#Pg325" class= + "tei tei-ref">Appendix H</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_65" name="note_65" + href="#noteref_65">65.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Professor Tyndall describes this + incident in the following words:—<span class="tei tei-q">“We had + gathered up our traps, and bent to the work before us, when + suddenly an explosion occurred overhead. We looked aloft and saw + in mid-air a solid shot from the Matterhorn describing its proper + parabola, and finally splitting into fragments as it smote one of + the rocky towers in front. Down the shattered fragments came like + a kind of spray, slightly wide of us, but still near enough to + compel a sharp look-out. Two or three such explosions occurred, + but we chose the back fin of the mountain for our track, and from + this the falling stones were speedily deflected right or + left.”</span>—<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Saturday Review</span></span>, Aug. 8, 1863. + Reprinted in <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Macmillan’s Magazine</span></span>, April, + 1869.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_66" name="note_66" + href="#noteref_66">66.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Saturday + Review</span></span>, August 8, 1863.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_67" name="note_67" + href="#noteref_67">67.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The pinnacle, in fact, had a + name,—<span class="tei tei-q">“L’ange Anbé.”</span></dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_68" name="note_68" + href="#noteref_68">68.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Saturday + Review</span></span>, 1863, and <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Macmillan’s + Magazine</span></span>, 1869.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_69" name="note_69" + href="#noteref_69">69.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I have + entered into this matter because much surprise has been + expressed that Carrel was able to pass this place without any + great difficulty in 1865, which turned back so strong a party + in 1862. The cause of Professor Tyndall’s defeat was simply + that his second guide (Walter) did not give aid to Bennen when + it was required, and that the Carrels <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">would not act as + guides after having been hired as porters</span></span>. J.-A. + Carrel not only knew of the existence of this place before they + came to it, but always believed in the possibility of passing + it, and of ascending the mountain; and had he been leader to + the party, I do not doubt that he might have taken Tyndall to + the top. But when appealed to to assist Bennen (a Swiss, and + the recognised leader of the party), was it likely that he (an + Italian, a porter), who intended to be the first man up the + mountain by a route which he regarded peculiarly his own, would + render any aid?</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It is not so + easy to understand how Dr. Tyndall and Bennen overlooked the + existence of this cleft, for it is seen over several points of + the compass, and particularly well from the southern side of + the Théodule pass. Still more difficult is it to explain how + the Professor came to consider that he was only a stone’s-throw + from the summit; for, when he got to the end of <span class= + "tei tei-q">“the shoulder,”</span> he must have been perfectly + aware that the whole height of the final peak was still above + him.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_70" name="note_70" + href="#noteref_70">70.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Dr. Tyndall ascended the Matterhorn + in 1868. See Appendix <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">F</span></span>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_71" name="note_71" + href="#noteref_71">71.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Information upon the Val Tournanche + will be found in De Saussure’s <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Voyages dans les + Alpes</span></span>, vol. iv. pp. 379-81, 406-9; in Canon + Carrel’s pamphlet, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">La Vallée de Valtornenche en + 1867</span></span>; and in King’s <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Italian Valleys of + the Alps</span></span>, pp. 220-1.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_72" name="note_72" + href="#noteref_72">72.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">I shall speak again of this + mountain, and therefore pass it over for the present.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_73" name="note_73" + href="#noteref_73">73.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See the <a href="#map1" class= + "tei tei-ref">Map of the Matterhorn and its Glaciers</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_74" name="note_74" + href="#noteref_74">74.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">My attention was directed to this + note by Mr. A. Adams-Reilly.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_75" name="note_75" + href="#noteref_75">75.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <a name="notepg095" id="notepg095" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The summit + of the Théodule pass is 10,899 feet above the sea. It is + estimated that of late about a thousand tourists have crossed + it per annum. In the winter, when the crevasses are bridged + over and partially filled up, and the weather is favourable, + cows and sheep pass over it from Zermatt to Val Tournanche, and + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">vice + versa</span></span>.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In the + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">middle of August, 1792</span></span>, De + Saussure appears to have taken mules from Breil, over the Val + Tournanche glacier to the summit of the Théodule; and on a + previous journey he did the same, also in the middle of August. + He distinctly mentions (§ 2220) that the glacier was completely + covered with snow, and that <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">no</span></span> + crevasses were open. I do not think mules could have been taken + over the same spot in any August during the past twenty years + without great difficulty. In that month the glacier is usually + very bare of snow, and many crevasses are open. They are easily + enough avoided by those on foot, but would prove very + troublesome to mules.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">A few days + before we crossed the Breuiljoch in 1863, Mr. F. Morshead made + a parallel pass to it. He crossed the ridge on the <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">western</span></span> side of the little + peak, and followed a somewhat more difficult route than ours. + In 1865 I wanted to use Mr. Morshead’s pass (see <a href= + "#Pg235" class="tei tei-ref">p. 235</a>), but found that it was + not possible to descend the Zermatt side; for, during the two + years which had elapsed, the glacier had shrunk so much that it + was completely severed from the summit of the pass, and we + could not get down the rocks that were exposed.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_76" name="note_76" + href="#noteref_76">76.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Although the + admirable situation of Zermatt has been known for, at least, + forty years, it is only within the last twenty or so that it + has become an approved Alpine centre. Thirty years ago the + Théodule pass, the Weissthor, and the Col d’Hérens, were, I + believe, the only routes ever taken from Zermatt across the + Pennine Alps. At the present time there are (inclusive of these + passes and of the valley road) no less than twenty-six + different ways in which a tourist may go from Zermatt. The + summits of some of these cols are more than 14,000 feet above + the level of the sea, and a good many of them cannot be + recommended, either for ease, or as offering the shortest way + from Zermatt to the valleys and villages to which they + lead.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Zermatt + itself is still only a village with 600 inhabitants (about + forty of whom are guides), with picturesque châlet dwellings, + black with age. The hotels, including the new inn on the + Riffelberg, mostly belong to M. Alexandre Seiler, to whom the + village and valley are very much indebted for their prosperity, + and who is the best person to consult for information, or in + all cases of difficulty.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_77" name="note_77" + href="#noteref_77">77.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"><span class="tei tei-q">“Un des + faits les mieux constatés est que l’érosion des glaciers se + distingue de celle des eaux en ce que la première produit des + roches convexes ou moutonnées, tandis que la seconde donne lieu à + des concavités.”</span>—Prof. B. Studer, <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Origine des Lacs + Suisses</span></span>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_78" name="note_78" + href="#noteref_78">78.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Professor Ruskin’s view of + <span class="tei tei-q">“the Cervin from the north-west”</span> + (<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Modern + Painters</span></span>, vol. iv.) is taken from the Stockje. The + Col du Lion is a little depression on the ridge, close to the + margin of the engraving, on the right-hand side; the third + tent-platform was formed at the foot of the perpendicular cliff, + on the ridge, exactly one-third way between the Col du Lion and + the summit. The battlemented portion of the ridge, a little + higher up, is called the <span class="tei tei-q">“<span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">crête du + coq</span></span>”</span>; and the nearly horizontal portion of + the ridge above it is <span class="tei tei-q">“the + shoulder.”</span></dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_79" name="note_79" + href="#noteref_79">79.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <a name="note105" id="note105" class="tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">On <a href= + "#Pg007" class="tei tei-ref">p. 7</a> it is stated that there + was not a pass from Prerayen to Breil in 1860, and this is + correct. On July 8, 1868, my enterprising guide, Jean-Antoine + Carrel, started from Breil at 2 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> + with a well-known comrade—J. Baptiste Bich, of Val + Tournanche—to endeavour to make one. They went towards the + glacier which descends from the Dent d’Erin to the south-east, + and, on arriving at its base, ascended at first by some snow + between it and the cliffs on its south, and afterwards took to + the cliffs themselves. [This glacier they called the glacier of + Mont Albert, after the local name of the peak which on Mr. + Reilly’s map of the Valpelline is called <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Les Jumeaux.”</span> On Mr. Reilly’s map the + glacier is called <span class="tei tei-q">“Glacier + d’Erin.”</span>] They ascended the rocks to a considerable + height, and then struck across the glacier, towards the north, + to a small <span class="tei tei-q">“<span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">rognon</span></span>”</span> (isolated + patch of rocks) that is nearly in the centre of the glacier. + They passed above this, and between it and the great + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">séracs</span></span>. Afterwards their + route led them towards the Dent d’Erin, and they arrived at the + base of its final peak by mounting a <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">couloir</span></span> (gully filled with + snow), and the rocks at the head of the glacier. They gained + the summit of their pass at 1 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span>, + and, descending by the glacier of Zardesan, arrived at Prerayen + at 6.30 <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">As their + route joins that taken by Messrs. Hall, Grove, and Macdonald, + on their ascent of the Dent d’Erin in 1863, it is evident that + that mountain can be ascended from Breil. Carrel considers that + the route taken by himself and his comrade Bich can be improved + upon; and, if so, it is possible that the ascent of the Dent + d’Erin can be made from Breil in less time than from Prerayen. + Breil is very much to be preferred as a starting-point.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_80" name="note_80" + href="#noteref_80">80.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#Pg008" class= + "tei tei-ref">p. 8</a>. The height of this pass, according to the + late Canon Carrel, is 10,335 feet. A portrait of this + enthusiastic and worthy mountaineer is given upon <a href= + "#Pg109" class="tei tei-ref">p. 109</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_81" name="note_81" + href="#noteref_81">81.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">A brief account of this excursion + was published in the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Athenæum</span></span>, August 29, + 1863.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_82" name="note_82" + href="#noteref_82">82.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">This incident occurred close to the + place represented in the engraving facing <a href="#plate05" + class="tei tei-ref">p. 78</a>. The new, dry snow was very + troublesome, and poured down like flour into the steps which were + cut across the slopes. The front man accordingly moved ahead as + far as possible, and anchored himself to rocks. A rope was sent + across to him, was fixed at each end, and was held as a rail by + the others as they crossed. We did not trust to this rope alone, + but were also tied in the usual manner. The second rope was + employed as an additional security against slips.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_83" name="note_83" + href="#noteref_83">83.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"><span class="tei tei-q">“There is, + therefore, little hope of thus arriving at anything decisive as + to the exact part which echoes take in the production of the + rolling sound of thunder.”</span> P. 165, English ed., translated + by Col. Sabine: Longmans, 1855.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_84" name="note_84" + href="#noteref_84">84.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The same has + seemed to me to be the case at all times when I have been close + to the points of explosion. There has been always a distinct + interval between the first explosion and the rolling sounds and + secondary explosions which I have <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">believed</span></span> to be merely + echoes; but it has never been possible (except in the + above-mentioned case) to <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">identify</span></span> them as such.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Others have + observed the same. <span class="tei tei-q">“The geologist, + Professor Theobald, of Chur, who was in the Solferino storm, + between the Tschiertscher and Urden Alp, in the electric + clouds, says that the peals were short, like cannon shots, but + of a clearer, more cracking tone, and that the rolling of the + thunder was only heard farther on.”</span> Berlepsch’s + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Alps</span></span>, English ed., p. + 133.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_85" name="note_85" + href="#noteref_85">85.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Mr. J. + Glaisher has frequently pointed out that all sounds in balloons + at some distance from the earth are notable for their brevity. + <span class="tei tei-q">“It is one sound only; <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">there is no + reverberation, no reflection</span></span>; and this is + characteristic of all sounds in the balloon, one clear sound, + continuing during its own vibrations, then gone in a + moment.”</span>—<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Good Words</span></span>, 1863, p. + 224.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I learn from + Mr. Glaisher that the thunder-claps which have been heard by + him during his <span class="tei tei-q">“travels in the + air”</span> have been no exception to the general rule, and the + absence of rolling has fortified his belief that the rolling + sounds which accompany thunder are echoes, and echoes + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">only</span></span>.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_86" name="note_86" + href="#noteref_86">86.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#Pg303" class= + "tei tei-ref">Appendix B</a> for the experiences of Mr. R. B. + Heathcote during a thunderstorm on the Matterhorn in 1869.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_87" name="note_87" + href="#noteref_87">87.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Since then (on at least one + occasion), several persons have found themselves in this + predicament for five or six consecutive days!</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_88" name="note_88" + href="#noteref_88">88.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">I am speaking exclusively of the + disturbances which occur in the day-time during fine + weather.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_89" name="note_89" + href="#noteref_89">89.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The rocks are sometimes so hot that + they are almost painful to touch.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_90" name="note_90" + href="#noteref_90">90.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The mists are extremely deceptive to + those who are on the mountain itself. Sometimes they <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">seem</span></span> + to be created at a <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">considerable distance</span></span>, as if + the whole of the atmosphere of the neighbourhood was undergoing a + change, when in reality they are being formed in immediate + proximity to the mountain.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_91" name="note_91" + href="#noteref_91">91.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Croz was born at the Village du + Tour, in the valley of Chamounix, on April 22, 1830; Almer was a + year or two older.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_92" name="note_92" + href="#noteref_92">92.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The Pointe des Ecrins is also seen + from the top of the Col de Valloires, rising above the Col du + Galibier. This is the lowest elevation from which I have seen the + actual summit of the Ecrins.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_93" name="note_93" + href="#noteref_93">93.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">It should be observed that these + mountains were included in the territory recently ceded to + France. The Sardinian map above referred to was the old official + map. The French survey alluded to afterwards is the survey in + continuation of the great French official map. Sheet No. 179 + includes the Aiguilles d’Arve.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_94" name="note_94" + href="#noteref_94">94.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Whilst + stopping in the hospice on the Col de Lautaret, in 1869, I was + accosted by a middle-aged peasant, who asked if I would ride + (for a consideration) in his cart towards Briançon. He was + inquisitive as to my knowledge of his district, and at last + asked, <span class="tei tei-q">“Have you been at La + Sausse?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Yes.”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“Well, then, I tell you, <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">you saw there + some of the first people in the world</span></span>.”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“Yes,”</span> I said, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“they were primitive, certainly.”</span> But he was + serious, and went on—<span class="tei tei-q">“Yes, real brave + people;”</span> and, slapping his knee to give emphasis, + <span class="tei tei-q">“<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">but that they are first-rate for minding + the cows!</span></span>”</span></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">After this + he became communicative. <span class="tei tei-q">“You thought, + probably,”</span> said he, <span class="tei tei-q">“when I + offered to take you down, that I was some poor ——, not worth a + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">sou</span></span>; but I will tell you, + that was my mountain! <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">my</span></span> mountain! that you saw at + La Sausse; they were <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">my</span></span> cows! a hundred of them + altogether.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Why, you are + rich.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Passably rich. I have + another mountain on the Col du Galibier, and another at + Villeneuve.”</span> He (although a common peasant in outward + appearance) confessed to being worth four thousand pounds.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_95" name="note_95" + href="#noteref_95">95.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">We had seen a tracing from the + unpublished sheets of the French Government Survey.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_96" name="note_96" + href="#noteref_96">96.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The + bracketed paragraphs in Chaps. VII. VIII. and IX. are extracted + from the Journal of Mr. A. W. Moore.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It would be + uninteresting and unprofitable to enter into a discussion of + the confusion of these names at greater length. It is + sufficient to say that they were confounded in a most + perplexing manner by all the authorities we were able to + consult, and also by the natives on the spot.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_97" name="note_97" + href="#noteref_97">97.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">A great part of this morning’s route + led over shales, which were loose and troublesome, and were + probably a continuation of the well-known beds of the Col du + Galibier and the Col de Lautaret.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_98" name="note_98" + href="#noteref_98">98.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The ridge + called La Meije runs from E.S.E. to W.N.W., and is crowned by + numerous aiguilles of tolerably equal elevation. The two + highest are towards the eastern and western ends of the ridge, + and are rather more than a mile apart. To the former the French + surveyors assign a height of 12,730, and to the latter 13,080 + feet. In our opinion the western aiguille can hardly be more + than 200 feet higher than the eastern one. It is possible that + its height may have diminished since it was measured.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In 1869 I + carefully examined the eastern end of the ridge from the top of + the Col de Lautaret, and saw that the summit at that end can be + ascended by following a long glacier which descends from it + towards the N.E. into the Valley of Arsine. The highest summit + presents considerable difficulties.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Sheet 189 of + the French map is extremely inaccurate in the neighbourhood of + the Meije, and particularly so on its northern side. The ridges + and glaciers which are laid down upon it can scarcely be + identified on the spot.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_99" name="note_99" + href="#noteref_99">99.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The justness of the observation will + be felt by those who knew La Grave in or before 1864. At that + time the horses of the couriers who were passing from Grenoble to + Briançon, and <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">vice versa</span></span>, were lodged + immediately underneath the salle-à-manger and bedrooms, and a + pungent, steamy odour rose from them through the cracks in the + floor, and constantly pervaded the whole house. I am told that + the inn has been considerably improved since 1864.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_100" name="note_100" + href="#noteref_100">100.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Our route from La Grave to La + Bérarde will be seen on the <a href="#fig46" class= + "tei tei-ref">accompanying map</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_101" name="note_101" + href="#noteref_101">101.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Taking one kind of work with + another, a thousand feet of height per hour is about as much as + is usually accomplished on great Alpine ascents.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_102" name="note_102" + href="#noteref_102">102.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"><a href="#fig47" class= + "tei tei-ref">Fig. 2</a> represents in a similar manner the + distance and elevation of the Matterhorn from and above Zermatt. + See <a href="#Pg045" class="tei tei-ref">p. 45</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_103" name="note_103" + href="#noteref_103">103.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The drawing was inadvertently made + the right way on the wood, and the view is now <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">reversed</span></span> in consequence.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_104" name="note_104" + href="#noteref_104">104.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">This wall may be described as an + exaggerated Gemmi, as seen from Leukerbad. From the highest + summit of La Meije right down to the Glacier des Etançons (a + depth of about 3200 feet), the cliff is all but perpendicular, + and appears to be completely unassailable. It is the most + imposing thing of its kind that I have seen.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_105" name="note_105" + href="#noteref_105">105.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Since this chapter was first + printed, the whole of the Aiguilles d’Arve have been ascended, + and also the highest point of the Meije. For information upon + these ascents the reader is referred to the pages of the + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Alpine + Journal</span></span>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_106" name="note_106" + href="#noteref_106">106.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Alpine + Journal</span></span>, December 1863.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_107" name="note_107" + href="#noteref_107">107.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">There are more than twenty peaks + exceeding 12,000 feet, and thirty others exceeding 11,000 feet, + within the district bounded by the rivers Romanche, Drac, and + Durance.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_108" name="note_108" + href="#noteref_108">108.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Alpine + Journal</span></span>, Dec. 1863.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_109" name="note_109" + href="#noteref_109">109.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Alpine + Journal</span></span>, June 1863.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_110" name="note_110" + href="#noteref_110">110.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The <a href="#fig50" class= + "tei tei-ref">above view</a> of the Ecrins was taken from the + summit of the Col du Galibier.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_111" name="note_111" + href="#noteref_111">111.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The most striking example which has + come under my notice is referred to in <a href="#Pg316" class= + "tei tei-ref">Chapter XIX</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_112" name="note_112" + href="#noteref_112">112.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See vol. i., p. 73 of <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Alpine + Journal</span></span>. We considered the height assigned to the + final peak by Mr. Bonney was too small, and thought it should + have been 200 feet more.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_113" name="note_113" + href="#noteref_113">113.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The Glacier Blanc is in the + direction indicated by the arrow below the letter <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-weight: 700">E</span></span> on + the <a href="#fig51" class="tei tei-ref">outline on p. + 156</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_114" name="note_114" + href="#noteref_114">114.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The ascent + of the Pointe des Ecrins has been made several times since + 1864. The second ascent was made by a French gentleman, named + Vincent, with the Chamounix guides Jean Carrier and Alexandre + Tournier. They followed our route, but reversed it; that is to + say, ascended by the western and descended by the eastern + arête.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The best + course to adopt in future attacks on the mountain, would be to + bring a ladder, or some other means of passing the bergschrund, + in its centre, immediately under the summit. One could then + proceed directly upwards, and so avoid the labour and + difficulties which are inevitable upon any ascent by way of the + arêtes.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_115" name="note_115" + href="#noteref_115">115.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">For route, see <a href="#fig49" + class="tei tei-ref">Map in Chap. VIII</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_116" name="note_116" + href="#noteref_116">116.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">For route, see <a href="#fig49" + class="tei tei-ref">Map in Chap. VIII</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_117" name="note_117" + href="#noteref_117">117.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The path + from Ville de Val Louise to Entraigues is good, and well shaded + by luxuriant foliage. The valley (d’Entraigues) is narrow; + bordered by fine cliffs; and closed at its western end by a + noble block of mountains, which looks much higher than it is. + The highest point (the Pic de Bonvoisin) is 11,500 feet. + Potatoes, peas, and other vegetables, are grown at Entraigues + (5284 feet), although the situation of the chalets is bleak, + and cut off from the sun.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Combe + (or Vallon) de la Selle joins the main valley at Entraigues, + and one can pass from the former by the little-known Col de + Loup (immediately to the south of the Pic de Bonvoisin) into + the Val Godemar. Two other passes, both of considerable height, + lead from the head of the Vallon de la Selle into the valleys + of Champoléon and Argentière.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_118" name="note_118" + href="#noteref_118">118.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">This, like many other names given to + mountains and glaciers on sheet 189, is not a local name, or, at + least, is not one that is in common use.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_119" name="note_119" + href="#noteref_119">119.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The height of the Col de Sellar (or + de Celar) is 10,073 feet (Forbes). I was told by peasants at + Entraigues that sheep and goats can be easily taken across + it.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_120" name="note_120" + href="#noteref_120">120.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#fig49" class= + "tei tei-ref">map on p. 146</a>. It is perhaps just possible, + although improbable, that these little glaciers were united + together at the time that the survey was made. Since then the + glaciers of Dauphiné (as throughout the Alps generally) have + shrunk very considerably. A notable diminution took place in + their size in 1869, which was attributed by the natives to the + very heavy rains of that year.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_121" name="note_121" + href="#noteref_121">121.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">This drawing was made to illustrate + the remarks which follow. It does not represent any particular + couloir, though it would serve, tolerably well, as a portrait of + the one which we ascended when crossing the Col de Pilatte.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_122" name="note_122" + href="#noteref_122">122.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The upper part of the southern side + of the Col de Pilatte, and the small glaciers spoken of on + <a href="#Pg168" class="tei tei-ref">p. 168</a>, can be seen from + the high road leading from Briançon to Mont Dauphin, between the + 12th and 13th kilomètre stones (from Briançon).</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_123" name="note_123" + href="#noteref_123">123.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Since the above paragraphs were + first printed, there has been some improvement in Dauphiné in + respect to the inns; and there is now at La Ville de Val Louise a + very decent little auberge called the Hôtel Pelvoux, kept by M. + Gauthier.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_124" name="note_124" + href="#noteref_124">124.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Under the title of <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Massif du Mont + Blanc, extrait des minutes de la Carte de France, leré par M. + Mieulet, Capitaine d’Etat Major</span></span>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_125" name="note_125" + href="#noteref_125">125.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The heights (in mètres) are after + Captain Mieulet.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_126" name="note_126" + href="#noteref_126">126.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Some of these heights have no + business to figure in a list of the principal peaks of the chain, + being nothing more than teeth or pinnacles in ridges, or portions + of higher mountains. Such, for example, are the Aiguilles du + Géant, du Dru, and de Bionnassay.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_127" name="note_127" + href="#noteref_127">127.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Besides Mont Blanc itself.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_128" name="note_128" + href="#noteref_128">128.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Previous to this we made an attempt + to ascend the Aiguille d’Argentière, and were defeated by a + violent wind when within a hundred feet of the summit.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_129" name="note_129" + href="#noteref_129">129.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Great crevasses. A bergschrund is a + schrund, and something more.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_130" name="note_130" + href="#noteref_130">130.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The passage of the Col de Triolet + from the Couvercle to Prè du Bar occupied 8½ hours of actual + walking. If the pass had been taken in the contrary direction it + would have consumed a much longer time. It gave a route shorter + than any known at the time between Chamounix and the St. Bernard. + As a pass I cannot conscientiously recommend it to any one (see + <a href="#Pg255" class="tei tei-ref">Chap. XVII.</a>), nor am I + desirous to go again over the moraine on the left bank of the + Glacier de Triolet, or the rocks of Mont Rouge.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_131" name="note_131" + href="#noteref_131">131.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The ascent of Mont Dolent and return + to Prè du Bar (halts included) occupied less than 11 hours.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_132" name="note_132" + href="#noteref_132">132.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The bracketed paragraphs in this + chapter are extracted from the notes of Mr. Reilly.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_133" name="note_133" + href="#noteref_133">133.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">From a sketch by Mr. + Adams-Reilly.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_134" name="note_134" + href="#noteref_134">134.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">This glacier is named Glacier du + Mont Blanc.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_135" name="note_135" + href="#noteref_135">135.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The Calotte is the name given to the + dome of snow at the summit of Mont Blanc.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_136" name="note_136" + href="#noteref_136">136.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Glacier du Dôme.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_137" name="note_137" + href="#noteref_137">137.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">This is without a name.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_138" name="note_138" + href="#noteref_138">138.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">I do not know the origin of the term + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">moraine</span></span>. De Saussure says + (vol. i. p. 380, § 536), <span class="tei tei-q">“the peasants of + Chamounix call these heaps of débris <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">the + moraine</span></span> of the glacier.”</span> It may be inferred + from this that the term was a local one, peculiar to + Chamounix.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_139" name="note_139" + href="#noteref_139">139.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">An example is referred to on + <a href="#Pg106" class="tei tei-ref">p. 106</a>. Much more + remarkable cases might be instanced.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_140" name="note_140" + href="#noteref_140">140.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">It is not usual to find small + moraines to large glaciers fed by many branches draining many + different basins. That is, if the branches are draining basins + which are separated by mountain ridges, or which, at least, have + islands of rock protruding through the ice. The small moraines + contributed by one affluent are balanced, probably, by great ones + brought by another feeder.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_141" name="note_141" + href="#noteref_141">141.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Atlas of Physical + Geography</span></span>, by Augustus Petermann and the Rev. T. + Milner. The italics are not in the original.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_142" name="note_142" + href="#noteref_142">142.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"><span class="tei tei-q">“The stones + that are found upon the upper extremities of glaciers are of the + same nature as the mountains which rise above; but, as the ice + carries them down into the valleys, they arrive between rocks of + a totally different nature from their own.”</span>—De Saussure, § + 536.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_143" name="note_143" + href="#noteref_143">143.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">One cannot do worse than follow that + path.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_144" name="note_144" + href="#noteref_144">144.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The lower chalet de Lognan is 2½ + hours’ walking from Chamounix. From thence to the summit of the + Aiguille d’Argentière, and down to the village of the same name, + occupied 12½ hours.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_145" name="note_145" + href="#noteref_145">145.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Col de + Zinal or Triftjoch, between the Trifthorn and the Ober + Gabelhorn; and the Col Durand between the last-mentioned + mountain and the Dent Blanche.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">For our + route from Zinal to Zermatt, see the <a href="#map2" class= + "tei tei-ref">Map of the Valley of Zermatt</a>.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_146" name="note_146" + href="#noteref_146">146.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">High above the Glacier de Moming at + the foot of the Crête de Milton.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_147" name="note_147" + href="#noteref_147">147.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Moore’s Journal.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_148" name="note_148" + href="#noteref_148">148.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Through what is technically called + an <span class="tei tei-q">“ice-fall.”</span></dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_149" name="note_149" + href="#noteref_149">149.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The responsibility, however, did not + rest with Croz. His part was to advise, but not to direct.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_150" name="note_150" + href="#noteref_150">150.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The summit of the pass has been + marked on Dufour’s map 3793 mètres, or 12,444 feet.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_151" name="note_151" + href="#noteref_151">151.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">These + snow-cornices are common on the crests of high mountain ridges, + and it is always prudent (just before arriving upon the summit + of a mountain or ridge) to <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">sound</span></span> + with the alpenstock, that is to say, drive it in, to discover + whether there is one or not. Men have often narrowly escaped + losing their lives from neglecting this precaution. Several + instances have been known of cornices having given way without + a moment’s notice, and of life only having been saved through + men being tied together.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">These + cornices are frequently rolled round in a volute, and sometimes + take most extravagant forms. See <a href="#Pg032" class= + "tei tei-ref">page 32</a>.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_152" name="note_152" + href="#noteref_152">152.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This + opportunity has been taken to introduce to the reader some of + the most expert amateur mountaineers of the time; and a few of + the guides who have been, or will be, mentioned in the course + of the book.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The late + Peter <a name="corr203b" id="corr203b" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr">Perrn</span> is + on the extreme right. Then come young Peter Taugwalder (upon + the bench); and J. J. Maquignaz (leaning against the + door-post). Franz Andermatten occupies the steps, and Ulrich + Lauener towers in the background.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_153" name="note_153" + href="#noteref_153">153.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#Pg115" class= + "tei tei-ref">pp. 115</a> and <a href="#Pg190" class= + "tei tei-ref">190</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_154" name="note_154" + href="#noteref_154">154.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#Pg141" class= + "tei tei-ref">p. 141</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_155" name="note_155" + href="#noteref_155">155.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#Pg169" class= + "tei tei-ref">pp. 169</a>-<a href="#Pg171" class= + "tei tei-ref">171</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_156" name="note_156" + href="#noteref_156">156.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#Pg236" class= + "tei tei-ref">pp. 236</a> and <a href="#Pg266" class= + "tei tei-ref">266</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_157" name="note_157" + href="#noteref_157">157.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I engaged + Croz for 1865 before I parted from him in 1864; but upon + writing to him in the month of April to fix the dates of his + engagement, I found that he had supposed he was free (in + consequence of not having heard from me earlier), and had + engaged himself to a Mr. B—— from the 27th of June. I + endeavoured to hold him to his promise, but he considered + himself unable to withdraw from his later obligation. His + letters were honourable to him. The following extract from the + last one he wrote to me is given as an interesting souvenir of + a brave and upright man:—</p><a name="fig59" id="fig59" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus247.png" alt= + "Illustration: Facsimile of a letter from Croz" /></div> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_158" name="note_158" + href="#noteref_158">158.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">It was an entry describing an ascent + of the Grand Cornier (which we supposed had never been ascended) + from the very direction which we had just pronounced to be + hopeless! It was especially startling, because Franz Biener was + spoken of in the account as having been concerned in the ascent. + On examining Biener it was found that he had made the excursion, + and had supposed at the time he was upon his summit that it was + the Grand Cornier. He saw afterwards that they had only ascended + one of the several points upon the ridge running northwards from + the Grand Cornier—I believe, the Pigne de l’Allée (11,168 + feet)!</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_159" name="note_159" + href="#noteref_159">159.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">For route, see the <a href="#map2" + class="tei tei-ref">map of the Valley of Zermatt</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_160" name="note_160" + href="#noteref_160">160.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I wrote in + the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Athenæum</span></span>, August 29, 1863, + to the same effect. <span class="tei tei-q">“This action of the + frost does not cease in winter, inasmuch as it is impossible + for the Matterhorn to be entirely covered by snow. Less + precipitous mountains may be entirely covered up during winter, + and if they do not then actually gain height, the wear and tear + is, at least, suspended.... We arrive, therefore, at the + conclusion that, although such snow-peaks as Mont Blanc + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">may</span></span> in the course of ages + grow higher, the Matterhorn must decrease in height.”</span> + These remarks have received confirmation.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The men who + were left by M. Dollfus-Ausset in his observatory upon the + summit of the Col Théodule, during the winter of 1865, remarked + that the snow was partially melted upon the rocks in their + vicinity upon 19th, 20th, 21st, 22d, 23d, 26th, 27th December + of that year, and upon the 22d of December they entered in + their Journal, <span class="tei tei-q">“<span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Nous avons vu au + Matterhorn que la neige se fondait sur roches et qu’il s’en + écoulait de l’eau.</span></span>”</span>—<span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Matériaux pour + l’étude des Glaciers</span></span>, vol. viii. part i. p. 246, + 1868; and vol. viii. part ii. p. 77, 1869.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_161" name="note_161" + href="#noteref_161">161.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">In each of the seven nights I passed + upon the south-west ridge of the Matterhorn in 1861-3 (at heights + varying from 11,844 to 12,992 feet above the level of the sea), + the rocks fell incessantly in showers and avalanches. See + <a href="#Pg120" class="tei tei-ref">p. 120</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_162" name="note_162" + href="#noteref_162">162.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Tonson’s Ed. of 1758. Bacon may have + had this passage in mind when he wrote, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“It must not be thought that heat generates motion, + or motion heat (though in some respects this be true), but that + the very essence of heat, or the substantial self of heat, is + motion and nothing else.”</span>—<span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Novum + Organum</span></span>, book ii. Devey’s Translation.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_163" name="note_163" + href="#noteref_163">163.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Doubtless, <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">at the + sides</span></span> of glacier beds, the range of temperature is + greater. But there is evidence that the winter cold does not + penetrate to the innermost recesses of glacier-beds in the fact + that streams continue to flow underneath the ice all the year + round, winter as well as summer, in the Alps and (I was informed + in Greenland) in Greenland. Experimental proof can be readily + obtained that even in midsummer the bottom temperature is close + to 32° Faht.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_164" name="note_164" + href="#noteref_164">164.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Professor Tyndall <span class= + "tei tei-q">“On the Conformation of the Alps,”</span> + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Phil. + Mag.</span></span>, Sept. 1862.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_165" name="note_165" + href="#noteref_165">165.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">This had been crossed, for the first + time, a few months before.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_166" name="note_166" + href="#noteref_166">166.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The following details may interest + mountain-climbers. Left Zinal (5505 feet) 2.5 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span> + Thence to plateau S.E. of summit of Grand Cornier, 5 h. 25 min. + From the plateau to the summit of the mountain, 2½ hours. The + last 300 feet of the ridge followed were exceedingly sharp and + narrow, with a great cornice, from which huge icicles depended. + We were obliged to go <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">underneath</span></span> the cornice, and to + cut a way through the icicles. Descent from summit to plateau, 1 + h. 40 min. Sharp snow-storm, with thunder. Plateau to summit of + Col du Grand Cornier (rocks easy), 45 min. From the summit of the + Col to the end of glacier leading to the west, 55 min. Thence to + Abricolla (7959), 15 min.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_167" name="note_167" + href="#noteref_167">167.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The brother of my guide Michel + Croz.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_168" name="note_168" + href="#noteref_168">168.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#notepg070" class= + "tei tei-ref">note to p. 70</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_169" name="note_169" + href="#noteref_169">169.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#map2" class= + "tei tei-ref">map of the Valley of Zermatt</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_170" name="note_170" + href="#noteref_170">170.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Couloirs are invariably protected at + their bases by bergschrunds. An example of a couloir with a + double bergschrund is given on p. 169.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_171" name="note_171" + href="#noteref_171">171.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The summit of the Dent Blanche is a + ridge, perhaps one hundred yards in length. The highest point is + usually at its north-eastern end. Several ascents besides those + made by Mr. Kennedy and the author have been made in late years; + but, as yet, no one seems to have discovered an easy route up the + mountain.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_172" name="note_172" + href="#noteref_172">172.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The ascent of the Dent Blanche is + the hardest that I have made. There was nothing upon it so + difficult as the last 500 feet of the Pointe des Ecrins; but, on + the other hand, there was hardly a step upon it which was + positively easy. The whole of the face required actual climbing. + There was, probably, very little difference in difficulty between + the route we took in 1865, and that followed by Mr. Kennedy in + 1862.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_173" name="note_173" + href="#noteref_173">173.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#map2" class= + "tei tei-ref">Map of the Valley of Zermatt</a>. The route taken + upon June 19 is alone marked.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_174" name="note_174" + href="#noteref_174">174.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See Chap. III. <a href="#Pg044" + class="tei tei-ref">pp. 44</a>-5.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_175" name="note_175" + href="#noteref_175">175.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Subsequent experiences of others + have strengthened this opinion.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_176" name="note_176" + href="#noteref_176">176.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">I prefer to be on the safe side. My + impression is that snow cannot accumulate in large masses + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">at</span></span> 45°.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_177" name="note_177" + href="#noteref_177">177.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Upon this subject I beg to refer the + reader to the valuable note furnished by Signor F. Giordano in + the Appendix.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_178" name="note_178" + href="#noteref_178">178.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#Pg056" class= + "tei tei-ref">pp. 56</a> and <a href="#Pg073" class= + "tei tei-ref">73</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_179" name="note_179" + href="#noteref_179">179.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Weathered granite is an admirable + rock to climb; its gritty texture giving excellent hold to the + nails in one’s boots. But upon such metamorphic schists as + compose the mass of the great peak of the Matterhorn, the texture + of the rock itself is of little or no value.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_180" name="note_180" + href="#noteref_180">180.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">I refer here only to that portion of + the ridge which is between the Col du Lion and the Great Tower. + The remarks would not apply to the rocks higher up (see <a href= + "#Pg075" class="tei tei-ref">p. 75</a>); higher still the rocks + are firm again; yet higher (upon the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Shoulder”</span>) they are much disintegrated; and + then, upon the final peak, they are again firm.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_181" name="note_181" + href="#noteref_181">181.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Travels through the + Alps</span></span>, 2nd ed. p. 317.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_182" name="note_182" + href="#noteref_182">182.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Its position is shown by the letter + F, on the right of the <a href="#fig32" class= + "tei tei-ref">outline, on p. 85</a>. See also <a href="#map1" + class="tei tei-ref">Map of the Matterhorn and its + Glaciers</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_183" name="note_183" + href="#noteref_183">183.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#Pg094" class= + "tei tei-ref">p. 94</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_184" name="note_184" + href="#noteref_184">184.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#plate01" class= + "tei tei-ref">Frontispiece</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_185" name="note_185" + href="#noteref_185">185.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#notepg095" class= + "tei tei-ref">note to p. 95</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_186" name="note_186" + href="#noteref_186">186.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The ascent of the Grandes Jorasses + was made to obtain a view of the upper part of the Aig. Verte, + and upon that account the westernmost summit was selected in + preference to the highest one. Both summits are shown upon the + <a href="#fig67" class="tei tei-ref">accompanying engraving</a>. + That on the right is (as it appears to be) the highest. That upon + its left is the one which we ascended, and is about 100 feet + lower than the other. A couple of days after our ascent, Henri + Grati, Julien Grange, Jos. Mar. Perrod, Alexis Clusaz, and Daniel + Gex (all of Courmayeur), followed our traces to the summit in + order to learn the way. As far as my observation extends, such + things are seldom done by money-grasping or spiritless guides, + and I have much pleasure in being able to mention their names. + The highest point (13,799) was ascended on June 29-30, 1868, by + Mr. Horace Walker, with the guides Melchior Anderegg, J. Jaun, + and Julien Grange.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_187" name="note_187" + href="#noteref_187">187.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The view of Mont Blanc from a gorge + on the south of the Italian Val Ferret, mid-way between the + villages of La Vachey and Praz Sec, and about 3000 feet above + them, is, in my opinion, the finest which can be obtained of that + mountain range anywhere upon the Italian side.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_188" name="note_188" + href="#noteref_188">188.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The next generation may witness its + extinction. The portion of it seen from the village of Argentière + was in 1869 at least one quarter less in width than it was ten + years earlier.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_189" name="note_189" + href="#noteref_189">189.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">This observation is not made without + reason. I have seen the head of one tumble off at a slight tap, + in consequence of its handle having been perforated by an + ingenious but useless arrangement of nails.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_190" name="note_190" + href="#noteref_190">190.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">I estimate its height at 1200 feet. + The triangulation of Capt. Mieulet places the summit of the pass + 11,624 feet above the sea. This, I think, is rather too + high.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_191" name="note_191" + href="#noteref_191">191.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"><span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Wanderings among + the High Alps</span></span>, 1858.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_192" name="note_192" + href="#noteref_192">192.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Most of his principal exploits are + recorded in the publications of the Alpine Club.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_193" name="note_193" + href="#noteref_193">193.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Engraved, by permission, from a + photograph by Mr. E. Edwards.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_194" name="note_194" + href="#noteref_194">194.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Admirably rendered in the <a href= + "#fig74" class="tei tei-ref">accompanying drawing</a> by Mr. + Cyrus Johnson.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_195" name="note_195" + href="#noteref_195">195.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">I heard lately of two well-known + mountaineers who, under the influence of sudden alarm, + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">swallowed their crystals</span></span>. I am + happy to say that they were able to cough them up again.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_196" name="note_196" + href="#noteref_196">196.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Hand specimens of the highest rocks + of the Aiguille Verte cannot be distinguished from granite. The + rock is almost identical in quality with that at the summit of + Mont Dolent, and is probably a granitöid gneiss.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_197" name="note_197" + href="#noteref_197">197.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The summit of the Aiguille Verte was + a snowy dome, large enough for a quadrille. I was surprised to + see the great height of Les Droites. Captain Mieulet places its + summit at 13,222 feet, but I think it must be very slightly lower + than the Verte itself.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_198" name="note_198" + href="#noteref_198">198.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The Chamounix tariff price for the + ascent of the Aiguille is now placed at £4 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">per + guide</span></span>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_199" name="note_199" + href="#noteref_199">199.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">It should be said that we received + the most polite apologies for this affair from the chief of the + gensdarmes, and an invitation to lodge a complaint against the + ring-leaders. We accepted his apologies, and declined his + invitation. Needless to add, Michel Croz took no part in the + demonstration.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_200" name="note_200" + href="#noteref_200">200.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Below the second ice-fall the + glacier is completely covered up with moraine matter, and if the + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">left</span></span> bank is followed, one is + compelled either to traverse this howling waste or to lose much + time upon the tedious and somewhat difficult rocks of Mont + Rouge.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_201" name="note_201" + href="#noteref_201">201.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">In glissading an erect position + should be maintained, and the point of the alpenstock allowed to + trail over the snow. If it is necessary to stop, or to slacken + speed, the point is pressed against the slope, as shown in the + <a href="#fig76" class="tei tei-ref">illustration</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_202" name="note_202" + href="#noteref_202">202.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Comparison + of the Col de Triolet with the Col de Talèfre will show what a + great difference in ease there may be between tracks which are + nearly identical. For a distance of several miles these routes + are scarcely more than half-a-mile apart. Nearly every step of + the former is difficult, whilst the latter has no difficulty + whatever. The route we adopted over the Col de Talèfre may + perhaps be improved. It may be possible to go directly from the + head of the Glacier de Triolet to its right bank, and, if so, + at least thirty minutes might be saved.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The + following is a list of the principal of the passes across the + main ridge of the range of Mont Blanc, with the years in which + the first passages were effected, as far as I know them:—1. Col + de Trélatête (1864), between Aig. du Glacier and Aig. de + Trélatête. 2. Col de Miage, between Aig. de Miage and Aig. de + Bionnassay. 3. Col du Dôme (1865), over the Dôme du Goûter. 4. + Col du Mont Blanc (1868), over Mont Blanc. 5. Col de la Brenva + (1865), between Mont Blanc and Mont Maudit. 6. Col de la Tour + Ronde (1867), over la Tour Ronde. 7. Col du Géant, between la + Tour Ronde and Aigs. Marbrées. 8. Col des Grandes Jorasses + (1873), between the Grandes and Petites Jorasses. 9. Col de + Leschaux (1877), between the Aig. de l’Eboulement and the Aig. + de Leschaux. 10. Col Pierre Joseph (1866), over Aig. de + l’Eboulement. 11. Col de Talèfre (1865), between Aigs. Talèfre + and Triolet. 12. Col de Triolet (1864), between Aigs. Talèfre + and Triolet. 13. Col Dolent (1865), between Aig. de Triolet and + Mont Dolent. 14. Col d’Argentière (1861), between Mont Dolent + and la Tour Noire. 15. Col de la Tour Noire (1863), between the + Tour Noire and the Aig. d’Argentière. 16. Col du Chardonnet + (1863), between Aigs. d’Argentière and Chardonnet. 17. Col du + Tour, between Aigs. du Chardonnet and Tour.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_203" name="note_203" + href="#noteref_203">203.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">After crossing the glacier de + Breney, we ascended by some débris, and then by some cliffy + ground, to the glacier which surrounds the peak upon the south; + bore to the left (that is to the west) and went up the edge of + the glacier; and lastly took to the arête of the ridge which + descends towards the south-west, and followed it to the summit + (12,727).</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_204" name="note_204" + href="#noteref_204">204.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Manufactured and sold by Messrs. + Buckingham, Broad Street, Bloomsbury.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_205" name="note_205" + href="#noteref_205">205.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">For example, when the leader + suspects crevasses, and <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">sounds</span></span> for them, in the manner + shown in the <a href="#fig78" class="tei tei-ref">engraving</a>, + he usually loses half a step or more. The second man should take + a turn of the rope around his hand to draw it back in case the + leader goes through.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_206" name="note_206" + href="#noteref_206">206.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">When several persons are descending + such places, it is evident that the <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">last + man</span></span> cannot derive any assistance from the rope, and + so might as well be untied. Partly upon this account, it is usual + to place one of the strongest and steadiest men last. Now, + although this cannot be termed a senseless precaution, it is + obvious that it is a perfectly useless one, if it is true that a + single slip would upset the entire party. The best plan I know is + that which we adopted on the descent of the Col Dolent, namely, + to let one man go in advance until he reaches some secure point. + This one then detaches himself, the rope is drawn up, and another + man is sent down to join him, and so on until the last. The last + man still occupies the most difficult post, and should be the + steadiest man; but he is not exposed to any risk from his + comrades slipping, and they, of course, draw in the rope as he + descends, so that his position is less hazardous than if he were + to come down quite by himself.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_207" name="note_207" + href="#noteref_207">207.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">If you are out upon an excursion, + and find the work becoming so arduous that you have great + difficulty in maintaining your balance, you should at once + retire, and not imperil the lives of others. I am well aware that + the withdrawal of one person for such reasons would usually + necessitate the retreat of a second, and that expeditions would + be often cut short if this were to happen. With the fear of this + before their eyes, I believe that many amateurs continue to go + on, albeit well convinced that they ought not. They do not wish + to stop the sport of their comrades; but they frequently suffer + mental tortures in consequence, which most emphatically do not + assist their stability, and are likely to lead to something even + more disagreeable than the abandonment of the excursion. The + moral is, take an adequate number of guides.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_208" name="note_208" + href="#noteref_208">208.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">During the preceding eighteen days + (I exclude Sundays and other non-working days) we ascended more + than 100,000 feet, and descended 98,000 feet.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_209" name="note_209" + href="#noteref_209">209.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#Pg079" class= + "tei tei-ref">p. 79</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_210" name="note_210" + href="#noteref_210">210.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Tourists usually congregate at + Zermatt upon Sundays, and large gangs and droves cross the + Théodule pass on Mondays.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_211" name="note_211" + href="#noteref_211">211.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The Italian Minister. Signor + Giordano had undertaken the business arrangements for Signor + Sella.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_212" name="note_212" + href="#noteref_212">212.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Peter Taugwalder, the father, is + called <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">old</span></span> Peter, to distinguish him + from his eldest son, <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">young</span></span> Peter. In 1865 the + father’s age was about 45.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_213" name="note_213" + href="#noteref_213">213.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Brother of the present Marquis of + Queensberry.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_214" name="note_214" + href="#noteref_214">214.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">For route, and the others mentioned + in the subsequent chapters, see <a href="#map1" class= + "tei tei-ref">map of Matterhorn and its glaciers</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_215" name="note_215" + href="#noteref_215">215.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The two young Taugwalders were taken + as porters, by desire of their father, and carried provisions + amply sufficient for three days, in case the ascent should prove + more troublesome than we anticipated.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_216" name="note_216" + href="#noteref_216">216.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I remember + speaking about pedestrianism to a well-known mountaineer some + years ago, and venturing to remark that a man who averaged + thirty miles a-day might be considered a good walker. + <span class="tei tei-q">“A fair walker,”</span> he said, + <span class="tei tei-q">“a <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">fair</span></span> + walker.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“What then would you + consider <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">good</span></span> walking?”</span> + <span class="tei tei-q">“Well,”</span> he replied, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“I will tell you. Some time back a friend and I + agreed to go to Switzerland, but a short time afterwards he + wrote to say he ought to let me know that a young and delicate + lad was going with him who would not be equal to great things, + in fact, he would not be able to do more than fifty miles + a-day!”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“What became of the + young and delicate lad?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“He + lives.”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“And who was your + extraordinary friend?”</span> <span class="tei tei-q">“Charles + Hudson.”</span> I have every reason to believe that the + gentlemen referred to <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">were</span></span> equal to walking more + than fifty miles a-day, but they were exceptional, not + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">good</span></span> pedestrians.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Charles + Hudson, Vicar of Skillington in Lincolnshire, was considered by + the mountaineering fraternity to be the best amateur of his + time. He was the organiser and leader of the party of + Englishmen who ascended Mont Blanc by the Aig. du Goûter, and + descended by the Grands Mulets route, without guides, in 1855. + His long practice made him surefooted, and in that respect he + was not greatly inferior to a born mountaineer. I remember him + as a well-made man of middle height and age, neither stout nor + thin, with face pleasant—though grave, and with quiet + unassuming manners. Although an athletic man, he would have + been overlooked in a crowd; and although he had done the + greatest mountaineering feats which have been done, he was the + last man to speak of his own doings. His friend Mr. Hadow was a + young man of nineteen, who had the looks and manners of a + greater age. He was a rapid walker, but 1865 was his first + season in the Alps. Lord Francis Douglas was about the same age + as Mr. Hadow. He had had the advantage of several seasons in + the Alps. He was nimble as a deer, and was becoming an expert + mountaineer. Just before our meeting he had ascended the Ober + Gabelhorn (with old Peter Taugwalder and Jos. Viennin), and + this gave me a high opinion of his powers; for I had examined + that mountain all round, a few weeks before, and had declined + its ascent on account of its apparent difficulty.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">My personal + acquaintance with Mr. Hudson was very slight—still I should + have been content to have placed myself under his orders if he + had chosen to claim the position to which he was entitled. + Those who knew him will not be surprised to learn that, so far + from doing this, he lost no opportunity of consulting the + wishes and opinions of those around him. We deliberated + together whenever there was occasion, and our authority was + recognised by the others. Whatever responsibility there was + devolved upon <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">us</span></span>. I recollect with + satisfaction that there was no difference of opinion between us + as to what should be done, and that the most perfect harmony + existed between all of us so long as we were together.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_217" name="note_217" + href="#noteref_217">217.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Arrived at the chapel 7.30 + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">A.M.</span></span>; left it, 8.20; halted to + examine route 9.30; started again 10.25, and arrived at 11.20 at + the cairn made by Mr. Kennedy in 1862 (see <a href="#Pg059" + class="tei tei-ref">p. 59</a>), marked 10,820 feet upon the map. + Stopped 10 min. here. From the Hörnli to this point we kept, when + possible, to the crest of the ridge. The greater part of the way + was excessively easy, though there were a few places where the + axe had to be used.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_218" name="note_218" + href="#noteref_218">218.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Thus far the guides did not once go + to the front. Hudson or I led, and when any cutting was required + we did it ourselves. This was done to spare the guides, and to + show them that we were thoroughly in earnest. The spot at which + we camped was four hours’ walking from Zermatt, and is marked + upon the map—<span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">CAMP</span></span> (1865). It was just upon a + level with the Furggengrat, and its position is indicated upon + the <a href="#plate10" class="tei tei-ref">engraving facing p. + 227</a> by a little circular white spot, in a line with the word + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">CAMP</span></span>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_219" name="note_219" + href="#noteref_219">219.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">It was originally intended to leave + both of the young men behind. We found it difficult to divide the + food, and so the new arrangement was made.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_220" name="note_220" + href="#noteref_220">220.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#Pg227" class= + "tei tei-ref">pp. 227</a>-<a href="#Pg231" class= + "tei tei-ref">231</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_221" name="note_221" + href="#noteref_221">221.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">For track, see the lower of the + <a href="#plate11" class="tei tei-ref">outlines facing p. + 230</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_222" name="note_222" + href="#noteref_222">222.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See remarks on arêtes and faces on + <a href="#Pg206" class="tei tei-ref">p. 206</a>. There is very + little to choose between in the arêtes leading from the summit + towards the Hörnli (N.E. ridge) and towards the Col du Lion (S.W. + ridge). Both are jagged, serrated ridges, which any experienced + climber would willingly avoid if he could find another route. On + the northern (Zermatt) side the eastern face affords another + route, or any number of routes, since there is hardly a part of + it which cannot be traversed! On the southern (Breil) side the + ridge alone, generally speaking, can be followed; and when it + becomes impracticable, and the climber is forced to bear down to + the right or to the left, the work is of the most difficult + character.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_223" name="note_223" + href="#noteref_223">223.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Very few stones fell during the two + days I was on the mountain, and none came near us. Others who + have followed the same route have not been so fortunate; they may + not, perhaps, have taken the same precautions. It is a noteworthy + fact, that the lateral moraine of the left bank of the + Furggengletscher is scarcely larger than that of the right bank, + although the former receives all the débris that falls from the + 4000 feet of cliffs which form the eastern side of the + Matterhorn, whilst the latter is fed by perfectly insignificant + slopes. Neither of these moraines is large. This is strong + evidence that stones do <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">not</span></span> fall to any great extent + from the eastern face. The inward dip of the beds retains the + detritus in place. Hence the eastern face appears, when one is + upon it, to be undergoing more rapid disintegration than the + other sides: in reality, the mantle of ruin spares the mountain + from farther waste. Upon the southern side, rocks fall as they + are rent off; <span class="tei tei-q">“each day’s work is cleared + away”</span> every day; and hence the faces and ridges are left + naked, and are exposed to fresh attacks.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_224" name="note_224" + href="#noteref_224">224.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The snow seen in the <a href= + "#plate10" class="tei tei-ref">engraving facing p. 227</a>, + half-an-inch below the summit, and a little to its right.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_225" name="note_225" + href="#noteref_225">225.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">This part was less steeply inclined + than the whole of the eastern face.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_226" name="note_226" + href="#noteref_226">226.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">I have no memorandum of the time + that it occupied. It must have taken about an hour and a + half.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_227" name="note_227" + href="#noteref_227">227.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The highest points are towards the + two ends. In 1865 the northern end was slightly higher than the + southern one. In bygone years Carrel and I often suggested to + each other that we might one day arrive upon the top, and find + ourselves cut off from the very highest point by a notch in the + summit-ridge which is seen from the Theodule and from Breil + (marked <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">D</span></span> on the <a href="#fig32" class= + "tei tei-ref">outline on p. 85</a>). This notch is very + conspicuous from below, but when we were upon the summit it was + hardly noticed, and it could be passed without the least + difficulty.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_228" name="note_228" + href="#noteref_228">228.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">I have learnt since from J.-A. + Carrel that they heard our first cries. They were then upon the + south-west ridge, close to the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Cravate,”</span> and <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">twelve hundred and + fifty</span></span> feet below us; or, as the crow flies, at a + distance of about one-third of a mile.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_229" name="note_229" + href="#noteref_229">229.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">At our departure the men were + confident that the ascent would be made, and took one of the + poles out of the tent. I protested that it was tempting + Providence; they took the pole, nevertheless.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_230" name="note_230" + href="#noteref_230">230.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Signor + Giordano was naturally disappointed at the result, and wished + the men to start again. <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">They all refused to do so, with the + exception of Jean-Antoine.</span></span> Upon the 16th of July + he set out again with three others, and upon the 17th gained + the summit by passing (at first) up the south-west ridge, and + (afterwards) by turning over to the Z’Mutt, or north-western + side. On the 18th he returned to Breil.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Whilst we + were upon the southern end of the summit-ridge, we paid some + attention to the portion of the mountain which intervened + between ourselves and the Italian guides. It seemed as if there + would not be the least chance for them if they should attempt + to storm the final peak directly from the end of the + <span class="tei tei-q">“shoulder.”</span> In that direction + cliffs fell sheer down from the summit, and we were unable to + see beyond a certain distance. There remained the route about + which Carrel and I had often talked, namely to ascend directly + at first from the end of the <span class= + "tei tei-q">“shoulder,”</span> and afterwards to swerve to the + left—that is, to the Z’Mutt side—and to complete the ascent + from the north-west. When we were upon the summit we laughed at + this idea. The part of the mountain that I have described upon + <a href="#Pg278" class="tei tei-ref">p. 278</a>, was not easy, + although its inclination was moderate. If that slope were made + only ten degrees steeper, its difficulty would be enormously + increased. To double its inclination would be to make it + impracticable. The slope at the southern end of the + summit-ridge, falling towards the north-west, was <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">much</span></span> steeper than that over + which we passed, and we ridiculed the idea that any person + should attempt to ascend in that direction, when the northern + route was so easy. Nevertheless, the summit was reached by that + route by the undaunted Carrel. From knowing the final slope + over which he passed, and from the account of Mr. F. C. + Grove—who is the only traveller by whom it has been traversed—I + do not hesitate to term the ascent of Carrel and Bich in 1865 + the most desperate piece of mountain-scrambling upon record. In + 1869 I asked Carrel if he had ever done anything more + difficult. His reply was, <span class="tei tei-q">“Man cannot + do anything much more difficult than that!”</span> See <a href= + "#Pg304" class="tei tei-ref">Appendix <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">D</span></span></a>.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_231" name="note_231" + href="#noteref_231">231.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The summit-ridge was much shattered, + although not so extensively as the south-west and north-east + ridges. The highest rock, in 1865, was a block of micaschist, and + the fragment I broke off it not only possesses, in a remarkable + degree, the character of the peak, but mimics, in an astonishing + manner, the details of its form. (See <a href="#fig81" class= + "tei tei-ref">illustration on page 284</a>.)</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_232" name="note_232" + href="#noteref_232">232.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">It is most unusual to see the + southern half of the panorama unclouded. A hundred ascents may be + made before this will be the case again.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_233" name="note_233" + href="#noteref_233">233.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The substance of Chapter XX. + appeared in a letter in the <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Times</span></span>, August 8, 1865. A few + paragraphs have now been added, and a few corrections have been + made. The former will help to make clear that which was obscure + in the original account, and the latter are, mostly, + unimportant.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_234" name="note_234" + href="#noteref_234">234.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">If the members of the party had been + more equally efficient, Croz would have been placed <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">last</span></span>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_235" name="note_235" + href="#noteref_235">235.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Described upon <a href="#Pg277" + class="tei tei-ref">pp. 277</a>-8.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_236" name="note_236" + href="#noteref_236">236.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Not at all an unusual proceeding, + even between born mountaineers. I wish to convey the impression + that Croz was using all pains, rather than to indicate extreme + inability on the part of Mr. Hadow. The insertion of the word + <span class="tei tei-q">“absolutely”</span> makes the passage, + perhaps, rather ambiguous. I retain it now, in order to offer the + above explanation.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_237" name="note_237" + href="#noteref_237">237.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">At the + moment of the accident, Croz, Hadow, and Hudson, were all close + together. Between Hudson and Lord F. Douglas the rope was all + but taut, and the same between all the others, who were + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">above</span></span>. Croz was standing by + the side of a rock which afforded good hold, and if he had been + aware, or had suspected, that anything was about to occur, he + might and would have gripped it, and would have prevented any + mischief. He was taken totally by surprise. Mr. Hadow slipped + off his feet on to his back, his feet struck Croz in the small + of the back, and knocked him right over, head first. Croz’s axe + was out of his reach, yet without it he managed to get his head + uppermost before he disappeared from our sight. If it had been + in his hand I have no doubt that he would have stopped himself + and Mr. Hadow.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Mr. Hadow, + at the moment of his slip, was not occupying a bad position. He + could have moved either up or down, and could touch with his + hand the rock of which I have spoken. Hudson was not so well + placed, but he had liberty of motion. The rope was not taut + from him to Hadow, and the two men fell ten or twelve feet + before the jerk came upon him. Lord F. Douglas was not + favourably placed, and could neither move up nor down. Old + Peter was firmly planted, and stood just beneath a large rock + which he hugged with both arms. I enter into these details to + make it more apparent that the position occupied by the party + at the moment of the accident was not by any means excessively + trying. We were compelled to pass over the exact spot where the + slip occurred, and we found—even with shaken nerves—that + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">it</span></span> was not a difficult place + to pass. I have described the <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">slope + generally</span></span> as difficult, and it is so undoubtedly + to most persons; but it must be distinctly understood that Mr. + Hadow slipped at an easy part.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_238" name="note_238" + href="#noteref_238">238.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Or, more correctly, we held on as + tightly as possible. There was no time to change our + position.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_239" name="note_239" + href="#noteref_239">239.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">These ends, I believe, are still + attached to the rocks, and mark our line of ascent and descent. I + saw one of them in 1873.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_240" name="note_240" + href="#noteref_240">240.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I paid very + little attention to this remarkable phenomenon, and was glad + when it disappeared, as it distracted our attention. Under + ordinary circumstances I should have felt vexed afterwards at + not having observed with greater precision an occurrence so + rare and so wonderful. I can add very little about it to that + which is said above. The sun was directly at our backs; that is + to say, the fog-bow was opposite to the sun. The time was 6.30 + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> The forms were at once + tender and sharp; neutral in tone; were developed gradually, + and disappeared suddenly. The mists were light (that is, not + dense), and were dissipated in the course of the evening.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It has been + suggested that the crosses are incorrectly figured in the + accompanying view, and that they were probably formed by the + intersection of other circles or ellipses, as shown in the + annexed diagram. I think this suggestion is very likely + correct; but I have preferred to follow my original + memorandum.</p><a name="ill289" id="ill289" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> <a name="fig83" id="fig83" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a> + + <div class="tei tei-figure" style="text-align: center"> + <img src="images/illus334.png" alt= + "Illustration: Diagram of fog-bow" /></div> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In Parry’s + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Narrative of an Attempt to reach the North + Pole</span></span>, 4to, 1828, there is, at pp. 99-100, an + account of the occurrence of a phenomenon analogous to the + above-mentioned one. <span class="tei tei-q">“At half-past five + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span> we witnessed a very + beautiful natural phenomenon. A broad white fog-bow first + appeared opposite to the sun, as was very commonly the + case,”</span> etc. I follow Parry in using the term + fog-bow.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">It may be + observed that, upon the descent of the Italian guides (whose + expedition is noticed upon <a href="#Pg282" class= + "tei tei-ref">p. 282</a>, and again in the <a href="#Pg304" + class="tei tei-ref">Appendix</a>), upon July 17, 1865, the + phenomenon commonly termed the Brocken was observed. The + following is the account given by the Abbé Amé Gorret in the + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Feuille d’Aoste</span></span>, October 31, + 1865:—<span class="tei tei-q">“Nous étions sur l’épaule (the + <span class="tei tei-q">‘shoulder’</span>) quand nous + remarquâmes un phénomène qui nous fit plaisir; le nuage était + très-dense du côté de Valtornanche, c’était serein en Suisse; + nous nous vîmes au milieu d’un cercle aux couleurs de + l’arc-en-ciel; ce mirage nous formait à tous une couronne au + milieu de laquelle nous voyions notre ombre.”</span> This + occurred at about 6.30 to 7 <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-size: 75%">P.M.</span></span>, + and the Italians in question were at about the same height as + ourselves—namely, 14,000 feet.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_241" name="note_241" + href="#noteref_241">241.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">They had been travelling with, and + had been engaged by, Lord F. Douglas, and so considered him their + employer, and responsible to them.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_242" name="note_242" + href="#noteref_242">242.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Transcribed from the original + memorandum.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_243" name="note_243" + href="#noteref_243">243.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Nor did I speak to them afterwards, + unless it was absolutely necessary, so long as we were + together.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_244" name="note_244" + href="#noteref_244">244.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">A portrait of Franz Andermatten is + given in the <a href="#plate09" class="tei tei-ref">engraving + facing p. 202</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_245" name="note_245" + href="#noteref_245">245.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">To the point marked <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-weight: 700">Z</span></span> on + the map.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_246" name="note_246" + href="#noteref_246">246.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Marked with a cross on the map.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_247" name="note_247" + href="#noteref_247">247.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">A pair of gloves, a belt, and boot + that had belonged to him, were found. This, somehow, became + publicly known, and gave rise to wild notions, which would not + have been entertained had it been also known that the + <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">whole</span></span> of the boots of those + who had fallen <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">were off</span></span>, and were lying upon + the snow near the bodies.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_248" name="note_248" + href="#noteref_248">248.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The three ropes have been reduced by + photography to the same scale.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_249" name="note_249" + href="#noteref_249">249.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">I was one hundred feet or more from + the others whilst they were being tied up, and am unable to throw + any light on the matter. Croz and old Peter no doubt tied up the + others.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_250" name="note_250" + href="#noteref_250">250.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This is not + the only occasion upon which M. Clemenz (who presided over the + inquiry) has failed to give up answers that he has promised. It + is greatly to be regretted that he does not feel that the + suppression of the truth is equally against the interests of + travellers and of the guides. If the men are untrustworthy, the + public should be warned of the fact; but if they are blameless, + why allow them to remain under unmerited suspicion?</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Old Peter + Taugwalder is a man who is labouring under an unjust + accusation. Notwithstanding repeated denials, even his comrades + and neighbours at Zermatt persist in asserting or insinuating + that he <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">cut</span></span> the rope which led from + him to Lord F. Douglas. In regard to this infamous charge, I + say that he <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">could</span></span> not do so at the + moment of the slip, and that the end of the rope in my + possession shows that he did not do so beforehand. There + remains, however, the suspicious fact that the rope which broke + was the thinnest and weakest one that we had. It is suspicious, + because it is unlikely that any of the four men in front would + have selected an old and weak rope when there was abundance of + new, and much stronger, rope to spare; and, on the other hand, + because if Taugwalder thought that an accident was likely to + happen, it was to his interest to have the weaker rope where it + was placed.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">I should + rejoice to learn that his answers to the questions which were + put to him were satisfactory. Not only was his act at the + <a name="corr294" id="corr294" class= + "tei tei-anchor"></a><span class="tei tei-corr">critical</span> + moment wonderful as a feat of strength, but it was admirable in + its performance at the right time. I am told that he is now + nearly incapable for work—not absolutely mad, but with + intellect gone and almost crazy; which is not to be wondered + at, whether we regard him as a man who contemplated a + scoundrelly meanness, or as an injured man suffering under an + unjust accusation.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">In respect + to young Peter, it is not possible to speak in the same manner. + The odious idea that he propounded (which I believe emanated + from <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">him</span></span>) he has endeavoured to + trade upon, in spite of the fact that his father was paid (for + both) in the presence of witnesses. Whatever may be his + abilities as a guide, he is not one to whom I would ever trust + my life, or afford any countenance.</p> + </dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_251" name="note_251" + href="#noteref_251">251.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">They followed the route laid down + upon the map, and on their descent were in great peril from the + fall of a <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">sérac</span></span>. The character of the + work they undertook may be gathered from a reference to <a href= + "#Pg100" class="tei tei-ref">p. 100</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_252" name="note_252" + href="#noteref_252">252.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">This, or a subsequent party, + discovered a sleeve. No other traces have been found.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_253" name="note_253" + href="#noteref_253">253.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#Pg048" class= + "tei tei-ref">p. 48</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_254" name="note_254" + href="#noteref_254">254.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#Pg120" class= + "tei tei-ref">p. 120</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_255" name="note_255" + href="#noteref_255">255.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Malte-Brun’s <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Annales des + Voyages</span></span>, April 1869.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_256" name="note_256" + href="#noteref_256">256.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Peter Perrn, the well-known guide, + died at Zermatt in the winter of 1873-4.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_257" name="note_257" + href="#noteref_257">257.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">A place on the final peak, about + half-way between the <span class="tei tei-q">“Shoulder”</span> + and the summit.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_258" name="note_258" + href="#noteref_258">258.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">We resume here the account of the + proceedings of the Italians who started from Breil on the 11th of + July 1865. See <a href="#Pg269" class="tei tei-ref">p. + 269</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_259" name="note_259" + href="#noteref_259">259.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The foregoing particulars were + related to me by J.-A. Carrel.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_260" name="note_260" + href="#noteref_260">260.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The following details are taken from + the account of the Abbé Amé Gorret (published in the <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-style: italic">Feuille + d’Aoste</span></span>, Oct. 1865), who was at Breil when the men + returned.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_261" name="note_261" + href="#noteref_261">261.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See Appendix <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style="font-weight: 700">E</span></span>, + <a href="#Pg315" class="tei tei-ref">attempt No. 1</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_262" name="note_262" + href="#noteref_262">262.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">These terms, as well as the others, + Great Staircase, Col du Lion, Tête du Lion, Chimney, and so + forth, were applied by Carrel and myself to the various points, + in consequence of real or supposed resemblances in the rocks to + other things. A few of the terms originated with the Author, but + they are chiefly due to the inventive genius of J.-A. + Carrel.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_263" name="note_263" + href="#noteref_263">263.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">This point is marked by the red + letter <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-weight: 700">E</span></span> upon the lower of the <a href= + "#plate02" class="tei tei-ref">two outlines facing p. + 44</a>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_264" name="note_264" + href="#noteref_264">264.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">I have seen icicles more than a + hundred feet long hanging from the rocks near the summit of the + Matterhorn.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_265" name="note_265" + href="#noteref_265">265.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The words of the Abbé. I imagine + that he meant <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">comparatively easy</span></span>.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_266" name="note_266" + href="#noteref_266">266.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">The pace of a party is ruled by that + of its least efficient member.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_267" name="note_267" + href="#noteref_267">267.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">See <a href="#Pg083" class= + "tei tei-ref">pp. 83</a>-4 and <a href="#Pg090" class= + "tei tei-ref">pp. 90</a>-1.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_268" name="note_268" + href="#noteref_268">268.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">A ridge descending towards the + Z’Muttgletscher.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_269" name="note_269" + href="#noteref_269">269.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Joseph and J.-Pierre Maquignaz alone + ascended; the others had had enough and returned. It should be + observed that ropes had been fixed, by J.-A. Carrel and others, + over <span class="tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">all</span></span> the difficult parts of the + mountain as high as the shoulder, <span class= + "tei tei-hi"><span style= + "font-style: italic">before</span></span> the advent of these + persons. This explains the facility with which they moved over + ground which had been found very trying in earlier times. The + young woman declared that the ascent (as far as she went) was a + trifle, or used words to that effect; if she had tried to get to + the same height before 1862, she would probably have been of a + different opinion.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_270" name="note_270" + href="#noteref_270">270.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">Cette roche granitoïde paraît + surtout à la base ouest du pic sous le col du Lion, tandis + qu’elle ne paraît pas du tout sur le flanc est, où elle paraît + passer au gneiss talqueux.</dd> + + <dt class="tei tei-notelabel"><a id="note_271" name="note_271" + href="#noteref_271">271.</a></dt> + + <dd class="tei tei-notetext">En plusieurs localités des environs, + cette zone calcarifère présente des bancs et des lentilles de + dolomie, de cargueule, de gypse et de quartzite.</dd> + </dl> + </div> + </div> + <hr class="doublepage" /> + + <div class="boxed tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <a name="pdf70" id="pdf70"></a><a name="toc71" id="toc71"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">Transcriber’s Note</span></h1> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The illustrations + have been placed between paragraphs in the electronic text. This may + result in a changed page number in comparison to the List of + Illustrations.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The following + changes have been made to the text:</p> + + <table summary="This is a list." class="tei tei-list" style= + "margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + <tbody> + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr024" class= + "tei tei-ref">page 24</a>, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“fire”</span> changed to <span class= + "tei tei-q">“fir”</span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr178" class= + "tei tei-ref">page 178</a>, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Cormayeur”</span> changed to <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Courmayeur”</span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr203" class= + "tei tei-ref">page 203</a>, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“regele”</span> changed to <span class= + "tei tei-q">“regale”</span>, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Pernn”</span> changed to <a href="#corr203b" + class="tei tei-ref"><span class= + "tei tei-q">“Perrn”</span></a></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr243" class= + "tei tei-ref">page 243</a>, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“naturrally”</span> changed to <span class= + "tei tei-q">“naturally”</span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr269" class= + "tei tei-ref">page 269</a>, opening quote added before + <span class="tei tei-q">“That”</span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr294" class= + "tei tei-ref">page 294</a>, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“crritical”</span> changed to <span class= + "tei tei-q">“critical”</span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr315" class= + "tei tei-ref">page 315</a>, period added after <span class= + "tei tei-q">“47-9”</span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr319" class= + "tei tei-ref">page 319</a>, period added after <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Andermatten”</span></td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><a href="#corr321" class= + "tei tei-ref">page 321</a>, period added after <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Taugwalder”</span></td> + </tr> + </tbody> + </table> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Variations in + accentuation (<span class="tei tei-q">“chalet”</span>/<span class= + "tei tei-q">“châlet”</span>), hyphenation (e.g. <span class= + "tei tei-q">“commonplace”</span>/<span class= + "tei tei-q">“common-place”</span>, <span class= + "tei tei-q">“midday”</span>/<span class="tei tei-q">“mid-day”</span>) + and spelling (<span class="tei tei-q">“Ortler”</span>/<span class= + "tei tei-q">“Orteler”</span>) have not been changed.</p> + </div> + <hr class="doublepage" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 5.00em; margin-top: 5.00em"> + <div id="pgfooter" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 4.00em; margin-top: 4.00em"> + <pre class="pre tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 3.00em; margin-top: 3.00em"> +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN*** +</pre> + <hr class="doublepage" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 3.00em; margin-top: 3.00em"> + <a name="rightpageheader72" id="rightpageheader72"></a><a name= + "pgtoc73" id="pgtoc73"></a><a name="pdf74" id="pdf74"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">Credits</span></h1> + + <table summary="This is a list." class="tei tei-list" style= + "margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + <tbody> + <tr> + <th class="tei tei-label tei-label-gloss">November 17, + 2011 </th> + </tr> + + <tr> + <td class="tei tei-item tei-item-gloss"> + <table summary="This is a list." class="tei tei-list" + style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + <tbody> + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item">Project Gutenberg TEI + edition 1</td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label"></th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"><span class= + "tei tei-respStmt"><span class= + "tei tei-resp">Produced by <span class= + "tei tei-name">Juliet Sutherland</span>, + <span class="tei tei-name">Stefan Cramme</span>, + and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at + http://www.pgdp.net</span></span></td> + </tr> + </tbody> + </table> + </td> + </tr> + </tbody> + </table> + </div> + <hr class="doublepage" /> + + <div class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 3.00em; margin-top: 3.00em"> + <a name="rightpageheader75" id="rightpageheader75"></a><a name= + "pgtoc76" id="pgtoc76"></a><a name="pdf77" id="pdf77"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">A Word from Project + Gutenberg</span></h1> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This file + should be named 38044-h.html or 38044-h.zip.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This and all + associated files of various formats will be found in: <a href= + "http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/8/0/4/38044/" class= + "block tei tei-xref" style= + "margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"> + <span style= + "font-size: 90%">http://www.gutenberg.org</span><span style= + "font-size: 90%">/dirs/3/8/0/4/38044/</span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Updated + editions will replace the previous one — the old editions will be + renamed.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Creating the + works from public domain print editions means that no one owns a + United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation (and + you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without + permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, + set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply + to copying and distributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works + to protect the Project Gutenberg™ concept and trademark. Project + Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you + charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If + you do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying + with the rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly + any purpose such as creation of derivative works, reports, + performances and research. They may be modified and printed and + given away — you may do practically <em class= + "tei tei-emph"><span style= + "font-style: italic">anything</span></em> with public domain + eBooks. Redistribution is subject to the trademark license, + especially commercial redistribution.</p> + </div> + <hr class="page" /> + + <div id="pglicense" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 3.00em; margin-top: 3.00em"> + <a name="rightpageheader78" id="rightpageheader78"></a><a name= + "pgtoc79" id="pgtoc79"></a><a name="pdf80" id="pdf80"></a> + + <h1 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 3.46em; margin-top: 3.46em"> + <span style="font-size: 173%">The Full Project Gutenberg + License</span></h1> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><em class= + "tei tei-emph"><span style="font-style: italic">Please read this + before you distribute or use this work.</span></em></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">To protect the + Project Gutenberg™ mission of promoting the free distribution of + electronic works, by using or distributing this work (or any + other work associated in any way with the phrase <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Project Gutenberg”</span>), you agree to comply with + all the terms of the Full Project Gutenberg™ License (<a href= + "#pglicense" class="tei tei-ref">available with this file</a> or + online at <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/license" class= + "tei tei-xref">http://www.gutenberg.org/license</a>).</p> + + <div id="pglicense1" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h2 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">Section 1.</span></h2> + + <h2 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.40em; margin-top: 2.40em"> + <span style="font-size: 120%">General Terms of Use & + Redistributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works</span></h2> + + <div id="pglicense1A" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h3 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.40em; margin-top: 2.40em"> + <span style="font-size: 120%">1.A.</span></h3> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">By reading + or using any part of this Project Gutenberg™ electronic work, + you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to and + accept all the terms of this license and intellectual + property (trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree + to abide by all the terms of this agreement, you must cease + using and return or destroy all copies of Project Gutenberg™ + electronic works in your possession. If you paid a fee for + obtaining a copy of or access to a Project Gutenberg™ + electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the terms + of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or + entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph + <a href="#pglicense1E8" class="tei tei-ref">1.E.8.</a></p> + </div> + + <div id="pglicense1B" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h3 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.40em; margin-top: 2.40em"> + <span style="font-size: 120%">1.B.</span></h3> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> + <span class="tei tei-q">“Project Gutenberg”</span> is a + registered trademark. It may only be used on or associated in + any way with an electronic work by people who agree to be + bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few things + that you can do with most Project Gutenberg™ electronic works + even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. + See paragraph <a href="#pglicense1C" class= + "tei tei-ref">1.C</a> below. There are a lot of things you + can do with Project Gutenberg™ electronic works if you follow + the terms of this agreement and help preserve free future + access to Project Gutenberg™ electronic works. See paragraph + <a href="#pglicense1E" class="tei tei-ref">1.E</a> below.</p> + </div> + + <div id="pglicense1C" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h3 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.40em; margin-top: 2.40em"> + <span style="font-size: 120%">1.C.</span></h3> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation (<span class= + "tei tei-q">“the Foundation”</span> or PGLAF), owns a + compilation copyright in the collection of Project Gutenberg™ + electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the + collection are in the public domain in the United States. If + an individual work is in the public domain in the United + States and you are located in the United States, we do not + claim a right to prevent you from copying, distributing, + performing, displaying or creating derivative works based on + the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg are + removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project + Gutenberg™ mission of promoting free access to electronic + works by freely sharing Project Gutenberg™ works in + compliance with the terms of this agreement for keeping the + Project Gutenberg™ name associated with the work. You can + easily comply with the terms of this agreement by keeping + this work in the same format with its attached full Project + Gutenberg™ License when you share it without charge with + others.</p> + </div> + + <div id="pglicense1D" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h3 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.40em; margin-top: 2.40em"> + <span style="font-size: 120%">1.D.</span></h3> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The + copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern + what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most + countries are in a constant state of change. If you are + outside the United States, check the laws of your country in + addition to the terms of this agreement before downloading, + copying, displaying, performing, distributing or creating + derivative works based on this work or any other Project + Gutenberg™ work. The Foundation makes no representations + concerning the copyright status of any work in any country + outside the United States.</p> + </div> + + <div id="pglicense1E" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h3 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.40em; margin-top: 2.40em"> + <span style="font-size: 120%">1.E.</span></h3> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Unless you + have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:</p> + + <div id="pglicense1E1" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h4 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + 1.E.1.</h4> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The + following sentence, with active links to, or other + immediate access to, the full Project Gutenberg™ License + must appear prominently whenever any copy of a Project + Gutenberg™ work (any work on which the phrase <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Project Gutenberg”</span> appears, or with + which the phrase <span class="tei tei-q">“Project + Gutenberg”</span> is associated) is accessed, displayed, + performed, viewed, copied or distributed:</p> + + <div class="block tei tei-q" style= + "margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 0.90em"> + <span style="font-size: 90%">This eBook is for the use of + anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions + whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it + under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included + with this eBook or online at</span> <a href= + "http://www.gutenberg.org" class= + "tei tei-xref"><span style="font-size: 90%">http://www.gutenberg.org</span></a></p> + </div> + </div> + + <div id="pglicense1E2" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h4 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + 1.E.2.</h4> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">If an + individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is derived + from the public domain (does not contain a notice + indicating that it is posted with permission of the + copyright holder), the work can be copied and distributed + to anyone in the United States without paying any fees or + charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a + work with the phrase <span class="tei tei-q">“Project + Gutenberg”</span> associated with or appearing on the work, + you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs + <a href="#pglicense1E1" class="tei tei-ref">1.E.1</a> + through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work + and the Project Gutenberg™ trademark as set forth in + paragraphs <a href="#pglicense1E8" class= + "tei tei-ref">1.E.8</a> or 1.E.9.</p> + </div> + + <div id="pglicense1E3" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h4 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + 1.E.3.</h4> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">If an + individual Project Gutenberg™ electronic work is posted + with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and + distribution must comply with both paragraphs <a href= + "#pglicense1E1" class="tei tei-ref">1.E.1</a> through 1.E.7 + and any additional terms imposed by the copyright holder. + Additional terms will be linked to the Project Gutenberg™ + License for all works posted with the permission of the + copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.</p> + </div> + + <div id="pglicense1E4" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h4 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + 1.E.4.</h4> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Do not + unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg™ + License terms from this work, or any files containing a + part of this work or any other work associated with Project + Gutenberg™.</p> + </div> + + <div id="pglicense1E5" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h4 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + 1.E.5.</h4> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Do not + copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this + electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, + without prominently displaying the sentence set forth in + paragraph <a href="#pglicense1E1" class= + "tei tei-ref">1.E.1</a> with active links or immediate + access to the full terms of the Project Gutenberg™ + License.</p> + </div> + + <div id="pglicense1E6" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h4 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + 1.E.6.</h4> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">You may + convert to and distribute this work in any binary, + compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, + including any word processing or hypertext form. However, + if you provide access to or distribute copies of a Project + Gutenberg™ work in a format other than <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Plain Vanilla ASCII”</span> or other format + used in the official version posted on the official Project + Gutenberg™ web site (http://www.gutenberg.org), you must, + at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide + a copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of + obtaining a copy upon request, of the work in its original + <span class="tei tei-q">“Plain Vanilla ASCII”</span> or + other form. Any alternate format must include the full + Project Gutenberg™ License as specified in paragraph + <a href="#pglicense1E1" class="tei tei-ref">1.E.1.</a></p> + </div> + + <div id="pglicense1E7" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h4 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + 1.E.7.</h4> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Do not + charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, + performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg™ + works unless you comply with paragraph <a href= + "#pglicense1E8" class="tei tei-ref">1.E.8</a> or 1.E.9.</p> + </div> + + <div id="pglicense1E8" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h4 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + 1.E.8.</h4> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">You may + charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing access + to or distributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works + provided that</p> + + <table summary="This is a list." class="tei tei-list" + style="margin-bottom: 1.00em; margin-top: 1.00em"> + <tbody> + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">• </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> + You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits + you derive from the use of Project Gutenberg™ works + calculated using the method you already use to + calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is owed to + the owner of the Project Gutenberg™ trademark, but + he has agreed to donate royalties under this + paragraph to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive + Foundation. Royalty payments must be paid within 60 + days following each date on which you prepare (or + are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked + as such and sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary + Archive Foundation at the address specified in + <a href="#pglicense4" class="tei tei-ref">Section + 4, <span class="tei tei-q">“Information about + donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive + Foundation.”</span></a></p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">• </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> + You provide a full refund of any money paid by a + user who notifies you in writing (or by e-mail) + within 30 days of receipt that s/he does not agree + to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg™ + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a + physical medium and discontinue all use of and all + access to other copies of Project Gutenberg™ + works.</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">• </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> + You provide, in accordance with paragraph <a href= + "#pglicense1F3" class="tei tei-ref">1.F.3</a>, a + full refund of any money paid for a work or a + replacement copy, if a defect in the electronic + work is discovered and reported to you within 90 + days of receipt of the work.</p> + </td> + </tr> + + <tr class="tei tei-labelitem"> + <th class="tei tei-label">• </th> + + <td class="tei tei-item"> + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> + You comply with all other terms of this agreement + for free distribution of Project Gutenberg™ + works.</p> + </td> + </tr> + </tbody> + </table> + </div> + + <div id="pglicense1E9" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h4 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + 1.E.9.</h4> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">If you + wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg™ + electronic work or group of works on different terms than + are set forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission + in writing from both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive + Foundation and Michael Hart, the owner of the Project + Gutenberg™ trademark. Contact the Foundation as set forth + in <a href="#pglicense3" class="tei tei-ref">Section 3</a> + below.</p> + </div> + </div> + + <div id="pglicense1F" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h3 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.40em; margin-top: 2.40em"> + <span style="font-size: 120%">1.F.</span></h3> + + <div id="pglicense1F1" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h4 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + 1.F.1.</h4> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Project + Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable + effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe + and proofread public domain works in creating the Project + Gutenberg™ collection. Despite these efforts, Project + Gutenberg™ electronic works, and the medium on which they + may be stored, may contain <span class= + "tei tei-q">“Defects,”</span> such as, but not limited to, + incomplete, inaccurate or corrupt data, transcription + errors, a copyright or other intellectual property + infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, + a computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot + be read by your equipment.</p> + </div> + + <div id="pglicense1F2" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h4 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + 1.F.2.</h4> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">LIMITED + WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES — Except for the + <span class="tei tei-q">“Right of Replacement or + Refund”</span> described in <a href="#pglicense1F3" class= + "tei tei-ref">paragraph 1.F.3</a>, the Project Gutenberg + Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project + Gutenberg™ trademark, and any other party distributing a + Project Gutenberg™ electronic work under this agreement, + disclaim all liability to you for damages, costs and + expenses, including legal fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO + REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT LIABILITY, BREACH OF + WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE PROVIDED IN + PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE TRADEMARK + OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE + LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, + PUNITIVE OR INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF + THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGE.</p> + </div> + + <div id="pglicense1F3" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h4 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + 1.F.3.</h4> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">LIMITED + RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND — If you discover a defect + in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you + can receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it + by sending a written explanation to the person you received + the work from. If you received the work on a physical + medium, you must return the medium with your written + explanation. The person or entity that provided you with + the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy + in lieu of a refund. If you received the work + electronically, the person or entity providing it to you + may choose to give you a second opportunity to receive the + work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy + is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing + without further opportunities to fix the problem.</p> + </div> + + <div id="pglicense1F4" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h4 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + 1.F.4.</h4> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Except + for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth in + <a href="#pglicense1F3" class="tei tei-ref">paragraph + 1.F.3</a>, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS,' WITH NO + OTHER WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING + BUT NOT LIMITED TO WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS + FOR ANY PURPOSE.</p> + </div> + + <div id="pglicense1F5" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h4 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + 1.F.5.</h4> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Some + states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied + warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types + of damages. If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in + this agreement violates the law of the state applicable to + this agreement, the agreement shall be interpreted to make + the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by the + applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of + any provision of this agreement shall not void the + remaining provisions.</p> + </div> + + <div id="pglicense1F6" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h4 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + 1.F.6.</h4> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> + INDEMNITY — You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, + the trademark owner, any agent or employee of the + Foundation, anyone providing copies of Project Gutenberg™ + electronic works in accordance with this agreement, and any + volunteers associated with the production, promotion and + distribution of Project Gutenberg™ electronic works, + harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including + legal fees, that arise directly or indirectly from any of + the following which you do or cause to occur: (a) + distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg™ work, (b) + alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any + Project Gutenberg™ work, and (c) any Defect you cause.</p> + </div> + </div> + </div> + + <div id="pglicense2" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h2 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">Section 2.</span></h2> + + <h2 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.40em; margin-top: 2.40em"> + <span style="font-size: 120%">Information about the Mission of + Project Gutenberg™</span></h2> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Project + Gutenberg™ is synonymous with the free distribution of + electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of + computers including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new + computers. It exists because of the efforts of hundreds of + volunteers and donations from people in all walks of life.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Volunteers + and financial support to provide volunteers with the assistance + they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg™'s goals + and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg™ collection will remain + freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project + Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a + secure and permanent future for Project Gutenberg™ and future + generations. To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary + Archive Foundation and how your efforts and donations can help, + see Sections <a href="#pglicense3" class="tei tei-ref">3</a> + and <a href="#pglicense4" class="tei tei-ref">4</a> and the + Foundation web page at <a href="http://www.pglaf.org" class= + "tei tei-xref">http://www.pglaf.org</a>.</p> + </div> + + <div id="pglicense3" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h2 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">Section 3.</span></h2> + + <h2 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.40em; margin-top: 2.40em"> + <span style="font-size: 120%">Information about the Project + Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation</span></h2> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The Project + Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit 501(c)(3) + educational corporation organized under the laws of the state + of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal + Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax + identification number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is + posted at <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf" + class= + "tei tei-xref">http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/pglaf</a>. + Contributions to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive + Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent permitted by + U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The + Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. + S. Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees + are scattered throughout numerous locations. Its business + office is located at 809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT + 84116, (801) 596-1887, email business@pglaf.org. Email contact + links and up to date contact information can be found at the + Foundation's web site and official page at <a href= + "http://www.pglaf.org" class= + "tei tei-xref">http://www.pglaf.org</a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">For + additional contact information:</p> + + <div class="block tei tei-address" style= + "margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"> + <span class="tei tei-addrLine"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">Dr. Gregory + B. Newby</span></span><br /> + <span class="tei tei-addrLine"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">Chief Executive and + Director</span></span><br /> + <span class="tei tei-addrLine"><span style= + "font-size: 90%">gbnewby@pglaf.org</span></span><br /> + </div> + </div> + + <div id="pglicense4" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h2 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">Section 4.</span></h2> + + <h2 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.40em; margin-top: 2.40em"> + <span style="font-size: 120%">Information about Donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation</span></h2> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Project + Gutenberg™ depends upon and cannot survive without wide spread + public support and donations to carry out its mission of + increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that + can be freely distributed in machine readable form accessible + by the widest array of equipment including outdated equipment. + Many small donations ($1 to $5,000) are particularly important + to maintaining tax exempt status with the IRS.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">The + Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating + charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the + United States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it + takes a considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to + meet and keep up with these requirements. We do not solicit + donations in locations where we have not received written + confirmation of compliance. To SEND DONATIONS or determine the + status of compliance for any particular state visit <a href= + "http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate" class= + "tei tei-xref">http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate</a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">While we + cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we + have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no + prohibition against accepting unsolicited donations from donors + in such states who approach us with offers to donate.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"> + International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot + make any statements concerning tax treatment of donations + received from outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp + our small staff.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Please check + the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation methods + and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other ways + including checks, online payments and credit card donations. To + donate, please visit: <a href= + "http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate" class= + "tei tei-xref">http://www.gutenberg.org/fundraising/donate</a></p> + </div> + + <div id="pglicense5" class="tei tei-div" style= + "margin-bottom: 2.00em; margin-top: 2.00em"> + <h2 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.88em; margin-top: 2.88em"> + <span style="font-size: 144%">Section 5.</span></h2> + + <h2 class="tei tei-head" style= + "text-align: center; margin-bottom: 2.40em; margin-top: 2.40em"> + <span style="font-size: 120%">General Information About Project + Gutenberg™ electronic works.</span></h2> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em"><span class= + "tei tei-name">Professor Michael S. Hart</span> is the + originator of the Project Gutenberg™ concept of a library of + electronic works that could be freely shared with anyone. For + thirty years, he produced and distributed Project Gutenberg™ + eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Project + Gutenberg™ eBooks are often created from several printed + editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the + U.S. unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not + necessarily keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper + edition.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Each eBook + is in a subdirectory of the same number as the eBook's eBook + number, often in several formats including plain vanilla ASCII, + compressed (zipped), HTML and others.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Corrected + <em class="tei tei-emph"><span style= + "font-style: italic">editions</span></em> of our eBooks replace + the old file and take over the old filename and etext number. + The replaced older file is renamed. <em class= + "tei tei-emph"><span style= + "font-style: italic">Versions</span></em> based on separate + sources are treated as new eBooks receiving new filenames and + etext numbers.</p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">Most people + start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org" class="block tei tei-xref" + style= + "margin-bottom: 1.80em; margin-left: 3.60em; margin-top: 1.80em; margin-right: 3.60em"> + <span style= + "font-size: 90%">http://www.gutenberg.org</span></a></p> + + <p class="tei tei-p" style="margin-bottom: 1.00em">This Web + site includes information about Project Gutenberg™, including + how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive + Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to + subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.</p> + </div> + </div> + </div> + </div> + </div> + </div> +</body> +</html> diff --git a/38044-h/images/cover.jpg b/38044-h/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..21f06df --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus001.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus001.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..251f1fd --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus001.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus002.png b/38044-h/images/illus002.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2141d3c --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus002.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus006.png b/38044-h/images/illus006.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0cb04f2 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus006.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus007a.png b/38044-h/images/illus007a.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..665ceaf --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus007a.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus007b.png b/38044-h/images/illus007b.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..232da2d --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus007b.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus008.png b/38044-h/images/illus008.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a0fff27 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus008.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus009.png b/38044-h/images/illus009.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7e3afa4 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus009.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus010a.png b/38044-h/images/illus010a.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ab233a5 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus010a.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus010b.png b/38044-h/images/illus010b.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b873787 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus010b.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus024.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus024.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3d01ebf --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus024.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus025.png b/38044-h/images/illus025.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7e5b498 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus025.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus028.png b/38044-h/images/illus028.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..35075be --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus028.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus029.png b/38044-h/images/illus029.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..46129a7 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus029.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus030.png b/38044-h/images/illus030.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e66fafc --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus030.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus032.png b/38044-h/images/illus032.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7aa9a01 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus032.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus033.png b/38044-h/images/illus033.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b51f50c --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus033.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus035.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus035.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..984bafb --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus035.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus036.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus036.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d0880de --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus036.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus042.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus042.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..71df1f1 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus042.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus044.png b/38044-h/images/illus044.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3871f04 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus044.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus049.png b/38044-h/images/illus049.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c049bcd --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus049.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus052.png b/38044-h/images/illus052.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..86d5c79 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus052.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus054.png b/38044-h/images/illus054.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0d5ea0b --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus054.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus061.png b/38044-h/images/illus061.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..27ae94e --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus061.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus063.png b/38044-h/images/illus063.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..aa09bfc --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus063.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus068a.png b/38044-h/images/illus068a.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8856bd3 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus068a.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus068b.png b/38044-h/images/illus068b.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3f49af9 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus068b.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus072.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus072.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8d2b049 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus072.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus075.png b/38044-h/images/illus075.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b4259e1 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus075.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus078.png b/38044-h/images/illus078.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b884a5d --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus078.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus080.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus080.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b4ae86b --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus080.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus089a.png b/38044-h/images/illus089a.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9cd1f5b --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus089a.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus089b.png b/38044-h/images/illus089b.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44eee04 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus089b.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus099.png b/38044-h/images/illus099.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..945e732 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus099.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus100.png b/38044-h/images/illus100.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8c42d66 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus100.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus104.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus104.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8e3652f --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus104.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus108.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus108.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0648afe --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus108.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus110.png b/38044-h/images/illus110.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d93c087 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus110.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus116.png b/38044-h/images/illus116.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a8236b3 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus116.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus118.png b/38044-h/images/illus118.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9299a0c --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus118.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus121.png b/38044-h/images/illus121.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..35f6de8 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus121.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus125.png b/38044-h/images/illus125.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..69cb538 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus125.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus129.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus129.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2679e0c --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus129.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus130.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus130.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e3ac938 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus130.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus135.png b/38044-h/images/illus135.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1cf8303 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus135.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus141.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus141.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..19b5626 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus141.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus143.png b/38044-h/images/illus143.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4c2e41b --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus143.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus144.png b/38044-h/images/illus144.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b6b2daf --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus144.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus156.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus156.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a6c4b5f --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus156.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus158.png b/38044-h/images/illus158.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..448474b --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus158.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus160.png b/38044-h/images/illus160.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b02269d --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus160.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus162.png b/38044-h/images/illus162.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..55ded98 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus162.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus165.png b/38044-h/images/illus165.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9adf71d --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus165.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus167.png b/38044-h/images/illus167.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0893d2e --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus167.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus175.png b/38044-h/images/illus175.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ef3dad1 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus175.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus177.png b/38044-h/images/illus177.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f2ded46 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus177.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus179.png b/38044-h/images/illus179.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1980630 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus179.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus180.png b/38044-h/images/illus180.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d13e35e --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus180.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus183.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus183.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5b18e99 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus183.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus192.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus192.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5d4c1f4 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus192.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus193.png b/38044-h/images/illus193.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c64dc4c --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus193.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus196.png b/38044-h/images/illus196.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6ac10bf --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus196.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus201.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus201.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d4b2e81 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus201.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus206.png b/38044-h/images/illus206.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bb5dec5 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus206.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus221a.png b/38044-h/images/illus221a.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0103b1f --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus221a.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus221b.png b/38044-h/images/illus221b.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f10af0a --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus221b.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus221c.png b/38044-h/images/illus221c.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..49d9880 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus221c.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus221d.png b/38044-h/images/illus221d.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..95a6529 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus221d.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus221e.png b/38044-h/images/illus221e.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..44e7465 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus221e.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus222.png b/38044-h/images/illus222.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e9d742c --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus222.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus235.png b/38044-h/images/illus235.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a60261c --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus235.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus237.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus237.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..037a60f --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus237.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus240.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus240.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c4bb48e --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus240.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus247.png b/38044-h/images/illus247.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a8d1560 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus247.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus249.png b/38044-h/images/illus249.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d81aefd --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus249.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus250.png b/38044-h/images/illus250.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fbc9093 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus250.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus254.png b/38044-h/images/illus254.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fb15358 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus254.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus256.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus256.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ae61ff3 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus256.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus261.png b/38044-h/images/illus261.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..739581e --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus261.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus267.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus267.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..348489f --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus267.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus270.png b/38044-h/images/illus270.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2a72da8 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus270.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus272a.png b/38044-h/images/illus272a.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c0ef798 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus272a.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus272b.png b/38044-h/images/illus272b.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..533e59e --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus272b.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus277.png b/38044-h/images/illus277.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4e943f3 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus277.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus280.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus280.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ee4dfae --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus280.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus284.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus284.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a27bd0e --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus284.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus286.png b/38044-h/images/illus286.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..87e4cb8 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus286.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus287a.png b/38044-h/images/illus287a.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..91ee59b --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus287a.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus287b.png b/38044-h/images/illus287b.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..27b96c7 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus287b.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus288.png b/38044-h/images/illus288.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..43322de --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus288.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus291.png b/38044-h/images/illus291.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..04a73cd --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus291.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus292.png b/38044-h/images/illus292.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..84420ca --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus292.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus298.png b/38044-h/images/illus298.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7b6ad4e --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus298.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus300.png b/38044-h/images/illus300.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ee0f3c7 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus300.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus306.png b/38044-h/images/illus306.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cd237df --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus306.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus307.png b/38044-h/images/illus307.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fd95db9 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus307.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus322.png b/38044-h/images/illus322.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..eda66ef --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus322.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus324.png b/38044-h/images/illus324.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3d3da16 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus324.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus327.png b/38044-h/images/illus327.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..31e8b6c --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus327.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus330.png b/38044-h/images/illus330.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dc34fa5 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus330.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus332.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus332.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ffcfaea --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus332.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus334.png b/38044-h/images/illus334.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a67814a --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus334.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus335.png b/38044-h/images/illus335.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..72ce3c0 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus335.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus337.png b/38044-h/images/illus337.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c4e76d5 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus337.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus338.png b/38044-h/images/illus338.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5bd4d72 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus338.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus339.png b/38044-h/images/illus339.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3c42ebb --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus339.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus343.png b/38044-h/images/illus343.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5355247 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus343.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus355.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus355.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4948a46 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus355.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus357.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus357.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7748468 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus357.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus358.jpg b/38044-h/images/illus358.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ffffc50 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus358.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus372.png b/38044-h/images/illus372.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cc2a63b --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus372.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/illus374.png b/38044-h/images/illus374.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c396eb9 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/illus374.png diff --git a/38044-h/images/map1.jpg b/38044-h/images/map1.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1039e67 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/map1.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/map1thumb.jpg b/38044-h/images/map1thumb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..855525b --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/map1thumb.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/map2.jpg b/38044-h/images/map2.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..47cdaa6 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/map2.jpg diff --git a/38044-h/images/map2thumb.jpg b/38044-h/images/map2thumb.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e81cae9 --- /dev/null +++ b/38044-h/images/map2thumb.jpg |
