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diff --git a/old/38044-8.txt b/old/38044-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..385686d --- /dev/null +++ b/old/38044-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,12763 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Ascent of the Matterhorn by Edward +Whymper + + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no +restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under +the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or +online at http://www.gutenberg.org/license + + + +Title: The Ascent of the Matterhorn + +Author: Edward Whymper + +Release Date: November 17, 2011 [Ebook #38044] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO 8859-1 + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN*** + + + + + + [Illustration: Cover] + +[Illustration: "THEY SAW MASSES OF ROCKS, BOULDERS, AND STONES, DART ROUND + THE CORNER."] + + + + + + THE ASCENT + + OF + + THE MATTERHORN + + BY + + EDWARD WHYMPER + + [Illustration: Vignette] + +WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS + + + Toil and pleasure, in their natures opposite, are yet linked + together in a kind of necessary connection.--LIVY. + + +LONDON +JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET +1880 + +_All rights are reserved_ + + + + + + PREFACE. + + +In the year 1860, shortly before leaving England for a long continental +tour, the late Mr. William Longman requested me to make for him some +sketches of the great Alpine peaks. At this time I had only a literary +acquaintance with mountaineering, and had even not seen--much less set foot +upon--a mountain. Amongst the peaks which were upon my list was Mont +Pelvoux, in Dauphiné. The sketches that were required of it were to +celebrate the triumph of some Englishmen who intended to make its ascent. +They came--they saw--but they did not conquer. By a mere chance I fell in +with a very agreeable Frenchman who accompanied this party, and was +pressed by him to return to the assault. In 1861 we did so, with my friend +Macdonald--and we conquered. This was the origin of my scrambles amongst +the Alps. + +The ascent of Mont Pelvoux (including the disagreeables) was a very +delightful scramble. The mountain air did _not_ act as an emetic; the sky +did _not_ look black, instead of blue; nor did I feel tempted to throw +myself over precipices. I hastened to enlarge my experience, and went to +the Matterhorn. I was urged towards Mont Pelvoux by those mysterious +impulses which cause men to peer into the unknown. Not only was this +mountain reputed to be the highest in France, and on that account was +worthy of attention, but it was the dominating point of a most picturesque +district of the greatest interest, which, to this day, remains almost +unexplored! The Matterhorn attracted me simply by its grandeur. It was +considered to be the most thoroughly inaccessible of all mountains, even +by those who ought to have known better. Stimulated to make fresh +exertions by one repulse after another, I returned, year after year, as I +had opportunity, more and more determined to find a way up it, or to +_prove_ it to be really inaccessible. + +The chief part of this volume is occupied by the history of these attacks +on the Matterhorn, and the other excursions that are described have all +some connection, more or less remote, with that mountain or with Mont +Pelvoux. All are new excursions (that is, excursions made for the first +time), unless the contrary is pointed out. Some have been passed over very +briefly, and entire ascents or descents have been disposed of in a single +line. Generally speaking, the salient points alone have been dwelt upon, +and the rest has been left to the imagination. This treatment has spared +the reader from much useless repetition. + +In endeavouring to make the book of some use to those who may wish to go +mountain-scrambling, whether in the Alps or elsewhere, prominence has been +given to our mistakes and failures; and to some it may seem that our +practice must have been bad if the principles which are laid down are +sound, or that the principles must be unsound if the practice was good. +The principles which are brought under the notice of the reader are, +however, deduced from long experience, which experience had not been +gained at the time that the blunders were perpetrated; and, if it had been +acquired at an earlier date, there would have been fewer failures to +record. + +My scrambles amongst the Alps were a sort of apprenticeship in the art of +mountaineering, and they were, for the most part, carried out in the +company of men who were masters of their craft. In any art the learner, +who wishes to do good work, does well to associate himself with master +workmen, and I attribute much of the success which is recorded in this +volume to my having been frequently under the guidance of the best +mountaineers of the time. The hints and observations which are dispersed +throughout the volume are not the result of personal experience only, they +have been frequently derived from professional mountaineers, who have +studied the art from their youth upwards. + +Without being unduly discursive in the narrative, it has not been possible +to include in the text all the observations which are desirable for the +general reader, and a certain amount of elementary knowledge has been +pre-supposed, which perhaps some do not possess; and the opportunity is +now taken of making a few remarks which may serve to elucidate those which +follow. + +When a man who is not a born mountaineer gets upon the side of a mountain, +he speedily finds out that walking is an art; and very soon wishes that he +could be a quadruped or a centipede, or anything except a biped; but, as +there is a difficulty in satisfying these very natural desires, he +ultimately procures an alpenstock and turns himself into a tripod. This +simple implement is invaluable to the mountaineer, and when he is parted +from it involuntarily (and who has not been?) he is inclined to say, just +as one may remark of other friends, "You were only a stick--a poor +stick--but you were a true friend, and I should like to be in your company +again." + + [Illustration: Point of Alpenstock] + +Respecting the size of the alpenstock, let it be remarked that it may be +nearly useless if it be too long or too short. It should always be shorter +than the person who carries it, but it may be any length you like between +three-fifths of your height and your extreme altitude. It should be made +of ash, of the very best quality; and should support your weight upon its +centre when it is suspended at its two ends. Unless shod with an iron +point it can scarcely be termed an alpenstock, and the nature of the point +is of some importance. The kind I prefer is shown in the annexed +illustration. It has a long tang running into the wood, is supported by a +rivetted collar, and its termination is extremely sharp. With a point of +this description steps can be made in ice almost as readily as with an +axe. + +A volume might be written upon the use of the alpenstock. Its principal +use is as a third leg, to extend one's base line; and when the beginner +gets this well into his head he finds the implement of extraordinary +value. In these latter times the pure and simple alpenstock has gone out +of fashion, and mountaineers now almost universally carry a stick with a +point at one end and an axe-head at the other. A moveable axe-head is +still a desideratum. There is a pick-axe made at Birmingham with a +moveable head which is better than any other kind that I have seen, but +the head is too clumsy to be held in the hand, and various improvements +will have to be effected in it before it will be fit for use in +mountaineering. Still, its principle appears to me to be capable of +adaptation, and on that account I have introduced it here. + + [Illustration: Birmingham pick-axe with moveable head] + + [Illustration: Russian furnace] + +After the alpenstock, or axe-alpenstock, it is of most importance for the +mountaineer to supply himself with plenty of good rope. Enough has been +said on this subject in different parts of the narrative, as well as in +regard to tents. Few other articles are _necessary_, though many others +are _desirable_, to carry about, and amongst the most important may be +reckoned some simple means of boiling water and cooking. At considerable +altitudes above the tree-line, it is frequently impossible to carry up +wood enough for a camp-fire, and nothing but spirits of wine can be +employed. The well-known and convenient so-called "Russian furnace" is the +most compact form of spirit lamp that I know, and wonders can be effected +with one that is only three inches in diameter. In conjunction with a set +of tins like those figured here (which are constructed to be used either +with a wood fire or over a spirit lamp), all the cooking can be done that +the Alpine tourist requires. For prolonged expeditions of a serious nature +a more elaborate equipage is necessary; but upon such small ones as are +made in the Alps it would be unnecessarily encumbering yourself to take a +whole _batterie de cuisine_.(1) + + [Illustration: Cooking tins] + +Before passing on to speak of clothing, a word upon snow-blindness will +not be out of place. Very fine language is sometimes used to express the +fact that persons suffer from their eyes becoming inflamed; and there is +one well-known traveller, at least, who, when referring to snow-blindness, +speaks habitually of the distressing effects which are produced by "the +reverberation of the snow." Snow-blindness is a malady which touches all +mountain-travellers sooner or later, for it is found impossible in +practice always to protect the eyes with the goggles which are shown +overleaf. In critical situations almost every one removes them. The +beginner should, however, note that at great altitudes it is not safe to +leave the eyes unprotected even on rocks, when the sun is shining +brightly; and upon snow or ice it is indispensable to shade them in some +manner, unless you wish to be placed _hors de combat_ on the next day. +Should you unfortunately find yourself in this predicament through the +intensity of the light, there is no help but in sulphate of zinc and +patience. Of the former material a half-ounce will be sufficient for a +prolonged campaign, as a lotion compounded with two or three grains to an +ounce of water will give relief; but of patience you can hardly lay in too +large a stock, as a single bad day sometimes throws a man on his back for +weeks.(2) + + [Illustration: Snow spectacles] + +The whole face suffers under the alternation of heat, cold, and glare, and +few mountain-travellers remain long without having their visages blistered +and cracked in all directions. Now, in respect to this matter, prevention +is better than cure; and, though these inconveniences cannot be entirely +escaped, they may, by taking trouble, be deferred for a long time. As a +travelling cap for mountain expeditions, there is scarcely anything better +than the kind of helmet used by Arctic travellers, and with the eyes well +shaded by its projecting peak and covered with the ordinary goggles one +ought not, and will not, suffer much from snow-blindness. I have found, +however, that it does not sufficiently shade the face, and that it shuts +out sound too much when the side-flaps are down; and I consequently adopt +a woollen headpiece, which almost entirely covers or shades the face and +extends well downwards on to the shoulders. One hears sufficiently +distinctly through the interstices of the knitted wool, and they also +permit some ventilation--which the Arctic cap does not. It is a useful +rather than an ornamental article of attire, and strangely affects one's +appearance. + + [Illustration: Arctic cap] + +For the most severe weather even this is not sufficient, and a mask must +be added to protect the remainder of the face. You then present the +appearance of the lower woodcut, and are completely disguised. Your most +intimate friends--even your own mother--will disown you, and you are a fit +subject for endless ridicule. + + [Illustration: The complete disguise] + +The alternations of heat and cold are rapid and severe in all high +mountain ranges, and it is folly to go about too lightly clad. Woollen +gloves ought always to be in the mountaineer's pocket, for in a single +hour, or less, he may experience a fall in temperature of sixty to eighty +degrees. But in respect to the nature of the clothing there is little to +be said beyond that it should be composed of flannels and woollens. + +Upon the important subject of boots much might be written. My friends are +generally surprised to find that I use elastic-side boots whilst +mountaineering, and condemn them under the false impression that they will +not give support to the ankles, and will be pulled off when one is +traversing deep snow. I have invariably used elastic-side boots on my +mountain expeditions in the Alps and elsewhere, and have found that they +give sufficient support to the ankles and never draw off. My Alpine boots +have always been made by Norman--a maker who knows what the requirements +are, and one who will give a good boot if allowed good time. + +It is fully as important to have proper nails in the boots as it is to +have good boots. The quantity is frequently overdone, and when there are +too many they are absolutely dangerous. Ice-nails, which may be considered +a variety of crampon, are an abomination. The nails should be neither too +large nor too numerous, and they should be disposed everywhere +irregularly--not symmetrically. They disappear one by one, from time to +time; and the prudent mountaineer continually examines his boots to see +that sufficient numbers are left.(3) A handkerchief tied round the foot, +or even a few turns of cord, will afford a tolerable substitute when nails +cannot be procured. + +If the beginner supplies himself with the articles which have been named, +he will be in possession of all the gear which is _necessary_ for ordinary +mountain excursions, and if he uses his plant properly he will avoid many +of the disagreeables which are looked upon by some as almost unavoidable +accompaniments of the sport of mountaineering. I have not throughout the +volume ignored the dangers which are real and unavoidable, and say +distinctly that too great watchfulness cannot be exercised at great +altitudes. But I say now, as I have frequently said before, that the great +majority of accidents which occur to mountaineers, especially to +mountaineering amateurs in the Alps, are not the result of unavoidable +dangers; and that they are for the most part the product of ignorance and +neglect. I consider that falling rocks are the greatest danger which a +mountaineer is likely to encounter, and in concluding these prefatory +remarks I especially warn the novice against the things which tumble about +the ears of unwary travellers. + + + + + + CONTENTS. + + + 1860 + + CHAPTER I. + + INTRODUCTORY. + +BEACHY HEAD--DEVIL OF NOTRE DAME--VISP THAL--SCRAMBLING ALONE--THE +WEISSHORN--ST. BERNARD--RASCALLY GUIDE--A VILLAGE CONCERT--STORM ON THE COL DE +LAUTARET + + Pages 1-12 + + 1861 + + CHAPTER II. + + THE ASCENT OF MONT PELVOUX. + +THE VALLEYS OF DAUPHINÉ--THE PEAKS OF DAUPHINÉ--MISTAKES IN THEIR +IDENTIFICATION--EARLY ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND MONT PELVOUX--INTRODUCTION TO +MONSIEUR REYNAUD--GRENOBLE--MEETING WITH MACDONALD--NATIONAL SENTIMENTS--WE +ENGAGE A GUIDE--START FOR PELVOUX--PASS THE CAVERN OF THE VAUDOIS--MASSACRE +OF THE VAUDOIS--FIRST NIGHT OUT--WE ARE REPULSED--ARRIVAL OF MACDONALD--THIRD +NIGHT OUT--TORRENTS ON FIRE--FALLING ROCKS--ASCENT OF THE PELVOUX--THE +PYRAMID--VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT--WE DISCOVER THE POINTE DES ECRINS--SURPRISED +BY NIGHT--ON FLEAS--EN ROUTE FOR MONTE VISO--DESERTERS--CAMP ON AN +ANT-HILL--ST. VERAN--PRIMITIVE MANNERS--NATURAL PILLARS--ARRIVE AT BRIANÇON + + 13-41 + + CHAPTER III. + + MY FIRST SCRAMBLE ON THE MATTERHORN. + +THE WEISSHORN AND THE MATTERHORN--INTRODUCTION TO JEAN-ANTOINE +CARREL--SUPERSTITIONS OF THE NATIVES IN REGARD TO THE MATTERHORN--RIDGES OF +THE MATTERHORN--EARLIEST ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MOUNTAIN--ATTEMPT BY THE +MESSRS. PARKER--ATTEMPT BY MESSRS. HAWKINS AND TYNDALL--ARRIVE AT +BREIL--UNWILLINGNESS OF THE GUIDES TO HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE +MATTERHORN--THE CARRELS ENDEAVOUR TO CUT US OUT--THE "GREAT STAIRCASE"--THE +COL DU LION--WE DECIDE TO CAMP THERE--GREAT EXCITEMENT FROM FALLING +STONES--LIGHT AND SHADE--THE "CHIMNEY"--DEFEATED--A COOL PROCEEDING + + 42-57 + + 1862 + + CHAPTER IV. + + RENEWED ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN. + +MR. KENNEDY'S WINTER ATTEMPT--BENNEN REFUSES TO START AGAIN--THE THÉODULE +PASS--MEYNET, THE HUNCHBACK OF BREIL--ON TENTS FOR MOUNTAINEERING--MACDONALD +AND I START FOR THE MATTERHORN--NARROW ESCAPE OF KRONIG--VIOLENT WIND TURNS +US BACK--ENGAGE CARREL AND PESSION AND START AGAIN--THE "GREAT +TOWER"--PESSION BECOMES ILL AND WE ARE OBLIGED TO RETURN--BAD +WEATHER--SCRAMBLE ALONE ON THE MATTERHORN--PIONEERS OF VEGETATION--VIEW FROM +THE TENT--A SOLITARY BIVOUAC--MONTE VISO SEEN BY MOONLIGHT AT NINETY-EIGHT +MILES' DISTANCE--ON AIDS TO CLIMBERS--CLIMBING CLAW--FIND A NEW PLACE FOR THE +TENT--I ATTAIN A GREATER ALTITUDE ALONE THAN HAD BEEN REACHED BEFORE, AND +NEARLY COME TO GRIEF--MY FOURTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN--DEFEATED +AGAIN BY WEATHER--THE CARRELS GO MARMOT-HUNTING, AND WE START FOR A FIFTH +ATTEMPT--DEFEATED BY NATURAL DIFFICULTIES--TYNDALL ARRIVES AND CARRIES OFF +THE CARRELS--A CANNONADE ON THE MATTERHORN--TYNDALL IS +REPULSED--CONFLAGRATION IN DAUPHINÉ + + 58-87 + + 1863 + + CHAPTER V. + + THE VAL TOURNANCHE--THE BREUILJOCH--ZERMATT--FIRST ASCENT OF THE GRAND + TOURNALIN. + +THE DOUANE--"BUT WHAT IS THIS?"--DIFFICULTIES WITH MY LADDER--EXPLANATION OF +TYNDALL'S REPULSE--ROMAN (?) AQUEDUCT IN THE VAL TOURNANCHE--ASCEND THE +CIMES BLANCHES--WE DECEIVE A GOAT--WE INVENT A NEW PASS TO ZERMATT +(BREUILJOCH)--AQUEOUS AND GLACIER EROSION--GLACIER VERSUS ROCKS--SEILER'S +DISINTERESTEDNESS--THE MATTERHORN CLIFFS--EXTRAORDINARY ACCIDENT TO A +CHAMOIS--COL DE VALPELLINE--THE MASTER OF PRERAYEN--ATTEMPT TO ASCEND DENT +D'ERIN (D'HÉRENS)--THE VA CORNÈRE PASS--FIRST ASCENT OF THE GRAND +TOURNALIN--SPLENDID VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT--ON PANORAMIC VIEWS--GOUFFRE DES +BUSSERAILLES--AN ENTERPRISING INNKEEPER + + 88-113 + + CHAPTER VI. + + OUR SIXTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN. + +EXTREMES MEET--THUNDER AND LIGHTNING--ECHOES OF THUNDER--GREAT ROCKFALLS +DURING THE NIGHT--DEFEATED BY THE WEATHER--MYSTERIOUS MISTS + + 114-123 + + 1864 + + CHAPTER VII. + + FROM ST. MICHEL TO LA BÉRARDE BY THE COL DES AIGS. D'ARVE, COL DE + MARTIGNARE, AND THE BRÈCHE DE LA MEIJE. + +RETURN AGAIN TO DAUPHINÉ--MICHEL CROZ--COL DE VALLOIRES--THE AIGUILLES +D'ARVE--WE MAKE A PASS BETWEEN THEM--COL DE MARTIGNARE--ASCENT OF THE AIG. DE +LA SAUSSE--THE MEIJE--FIRST PASSAGE OF THE BRÈCHE DE LA MEIJE--MELCHIOR +ANDEREGG--LA GRAVE--THE BRÈCHE IS WON--THE VALLON DES ETANÇONS + + 124-144 + + CHAPTER VIII. + + THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE POINTE DES ECRINS. + +LA BÉRARDE--PIC THE PORTER--BIVOUAC ON THE GLACIER DE LA BONNE +PIERRE--DISSOLVING VIEWS--DRYNESS OF THE AIR--TOPOGRAPHY OF CENTRAL DAUPHINÉ +ALPS--FIRST ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE ECRINS--A MIGHTY AVALANCHE--OUR ASCENT OF +THE FINAL PEAK--ON SPLINTERS FROM SUMMITS--LE JEU NE VAUT PAS LA +CHANDELLE--SHATTERED RIDGE--ALMER'S LEAP--SURPRISED BY NIGHT--A WARNING + + 145-165 + + CHAPTER IX. + + FROM VAL LOUISE TO LA BÉRARDE BY THE COL DE PILATTE. + +CHALETS OF ENTRAIGUES--ARRIVAL OF REYNAUD--ON SNOW COULOIRS--SUMMIT OF THE +COL--EXCITING DESCENT--REYNAUD COMES OVER THE SCHRUND--THE LAST OF DAUPHINÉ + + 166-175 + + CHAPTER X. + +THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DE TRIOLET, AND FIRST ASCENTS OF MONT DOLENT, + AIGUILLE DE TRÉLATÊTE, AND AIGUILLE D'ARGENTIÈRE. + +MAPS OF MONT BLANC--MR. ADAMS-REILLY--OUR COMPACT--THE PEAKS OF THE MONT +BLANC RANGE--ACROSS THE COL DE TRIOLET--A MINIATURE ASCENT--REILLY ADVOCATES +PATIENCE--BIVOUAC ON MONT SUC--THE FIRST ASCENT OF AIG. DE TRÉLATÊTE--THE +MORAINE OF THE MIAGE--ON MORAINES IN GENERAL--ERRONEOUS VIEWS RESPECTING +THEM--OUR FIRST ATTEMPT TO ASCEND AIG. D'ARGENTIÈRE--A CONCEALED +CAVERN--SUCCESS AT LAST--MR. REILLY'S MAP + + 176-192 + + CHAPTER XI. + + THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE MOMING PASS--ZINAL TO ZERMATT. + +SWISS MENDICANTS--NIGHT ON THE ARPITETTA ALP--A PERILOUS +PATH--ICE-AVALANCHE--SUMMIT OF THE MOMING PASS--CROZ DISTINGUISHES +HIMSELF--THE CLUB-ROOM OF ZERMATT + + 193-203 + + 1865 + + CHAPTER XII. + + THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE GRAND CORNIER. + +ON CHOICE OF ROUTES--REGRETS--ZINAL--ASCENT OF THE GRAND CORNIER--EFFECTS OF +SUN AND FROST--GREAT RIDGES SUFFER MOST--POINTS OF DIFFERENCE BETWEEN +ATMOSPHERIC AND GLACIER EROSION--ABRICOLLA + + 204-214 + + CHAPTER XIII. + + THE ASCENT OF THE DENT BLANCHE. + +LESLIE STEPHEN--KENNEDY'S ASCENT--ON BERGSCHRUNDS--UNWELCOME ATTENTIONS--A +RACE FOR LIFE--BENIGHTED--A SURPRISE + + 215-222 + + CHAPTER XIV. + + LOST ON THE COL D'HÉRENS--SEVENTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN--THE + FIRST ASCENT OF THE GRANDES JORASSES. + +A LATE START AND THE RESULT--BEWILDERED--RETURN TO ABRICOLLA--CROSS COL +D'HÉRENS TO ZERMATT--ASCEND THE THÉODULHORN--NEW IDEAS REGARDING THE +MATTERHORN--DECEPTIVENESS OF THE EAST FACE--STRATIFICATION--DIP OF THE +BEDS--TRY ANOTHER ROUTE--"SAUVE QUI PEUT"--BEATEN AGAIN--ASCENT OF THE GRANDES +JORASSES--NARROW ESCAPE FROM AN AVALANCHE + + 223-238 + + CHAPTER XV. + + THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DOLENT. + +CONFUSION OF IDEAS--A MIDNIGHT START--SUMMIT OF THE PASS--EXTRAORDINARY +ICE-WALL--MANNER OF ITS DESCENT--ON ICE-AXES AND THEIR USE--ON ICE-SLOPES AND +THEIR SAFETY--CRAMPONS--ARRIVAL AT CHAMOUNIX + + 239-246 + + CHAPTER XVI. + + THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE VERTE. + +CROZ LEAVES US--CHRISTIAN ALMER--SUNSET ON THE MER DE GLACE--ASCENT OF THE +AIGUILLE--ADVICE TO MOUNTAIN WALKERS--VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT--STORMS COME ON--A +WORTHY PORTER--THE NOBLE ATTITUDE OF CHAMOUNIX + + 247-254 + + CHAPTER XVII. + + THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DE TALÈFRE. + +THE COL DU GÉANT--THE GLACIER DE TALÈFRE--EASY WAY FROM CHAMOUNIX TO +COURMAYEUR--GLISSADING--PASSES OVER THE MAIN CHAIN OF MONT BLANC + + 255-258 + + CHAPTER XVIII. + + THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE RUINETTE--THE MATTERHORN. + +FACILITY WITH WHICH THE RUINETTE CAN BE ASCENDED--NOBLE PANORAMA--ON +CONCEALED CREVASSES--GUIDES' OBJECTION TO USE OF THE ROPE--ON THE USE AND +ABUSE OF THE ROPE--ALMER DECLINES THE MATTERHORN--ENGAGE THE CARRELS--THEIR +DEFECTION--THE ITALIANS STEAL A MARCH--ARRIVAL OF LORD FRANCIS +DOUGLAS--MEETING WITH CROZ, HUDSON, AND HADOW + + 259-272 + + CHAPTER XIX. + + THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN. + +CHARLES HUDSON--CAMP ON THE EAST FACE--CROZ REPORTS FAVOURABLY--ASCENT OF THE +EASTERN FACE--CROSS TO THE NORTHERN SIDE--ARRIVAL AT SUMMIT--DISCOMFITURE OF +THE ITALIANS--ASTONISHMENT AT BREIL--MARVELLOUS PANORAMA + + 273-283 + + CHAPTER XX. + + THE DESCENT OF THE MATTERHORN. + +ORDER OF THE DESCENT--A FRIGHTFUL AVALANCHE--HADOW SLIPS--DEATH OF CROZ, +HADOW, HUDSON, AND LORD F. DOUGLAS--TERROR OF THE TAUGWALDERS--THE BROKEN +ROPE--AN APPARITION--AN INFAMOUS PROPOSITION--SURPRISED BY NIGHT--SEARCH FOR +AND RECOVERY OF THE BODIES--OFFICIAL EXAMINATION--THE END + + 284-298 + + APPENDIX. + + PAGE +*A.* THE DEATH OF BENNEN 301 +*B.* STRUCK BY LIGHTNING UPON THE MATTERHORN 303 +*C.* NOTE ON THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN FRANCE 304 +*D.* SUBSEQUENT HISTORY OF THE MATTERHORN 304 +*E.* TABLE OF ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN 315 +*F.* TABLE OF ASCENTS OF THE MATTERHORN 316 +*G.* GEOLOGY OF THE MATTERHORN, BY SIG. F. GIORDANO 323 +*H.* PROFESSOR TYNDALL AND THE MATTERHORN 325 + + + + + + LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + + + The Drawings were made on the Wood by +H. J. BOOT, GUSTAVE DORÉ, C. JOHNSON, J. MAHONEY, J. W. NORTH, P. SKELTON, +W. G. SMITH, C. J. STANILAND, and J. WOLF; and were Engraved by J. W. and + EDWARD WHYMPER. + + FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. + + 1. "THEY SAW MASSES OF ROCKS, BOULDERS AND _Frontispiece._ + STONES, BIG AND LITTLE, DART ROUND THE + CORNER" + 2. OUTLINES OF THE MATTERHORN FROM THE _To face page_ 44 + NORTH-EAST AND FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE + THÉODULE PASS (TO SHOW RIDGES, AND POINTS + ATTAINED ON THE DIFFERENT ATTEMPTS TO + ASCEND THE MOUNTAIN) + 3. THE MATTERHORN, FROM NEAR THE SUMMIT OF " 46 + THE THÉODULE PASS + 4. "THE CHIMNEY" " 76 + 5. "IN ATTEMPTING TO PASS THE CORNER I " 78 + SLIPPED AND FELL" + 6. A CANNONADE ON THE MATTERHORN (1862) " 84 + 7. "THEY SCATTERED IN A PANIC WHEN SALUTED BY " 107 + THE CRIES OF MY EXCITED COMRADE" + 8. THE CRAGS OF THE MATTERHORN, DURING THE " 120 + STORM, MIDNIGHT, AUGUST 10, 1863 + 9. THE CLUB-ROOM OF ZERMATT IN 1864 " 202 +10. THE MATTERHORN FROM THE RIFFELBERG " 227 +11. SECTIONS OF THE MATTERHORN " 230 +12. FOG-BOW, SEEN FROM THE MATTERHORN ON JULY " 288 + 14, 1865 +13. THE HUT ON THE EASTERN FACE (ZERMATT SIDE) " 309 + OF THE MATTERHORN +14. GEOLOGICAL SECTION OF THE MATTERHORN " 324 + + IN THE TEXT. + + PAGE + 1. POINT OF ALPENSTOCK vii + 2. BIRMINGHAM PICK-AXE WITH MOVEABLE HEAD viii + 3. RUSSIAN FURNACE viii + 4. COOKING TINS ix + 5. SNOW SPECTACLES x + 6. ARCTIC CAP xi + 7. THE COMPLETE DISGUISE xi + 8. BEACHY HEAD 1 + 9. THE DEVIL OF NOTRE DAME 2 +10. THE CHURCH IN DIFFICULTIES 5 +11. AT THE ST. BERNARD 6 +12. THE VILLAGE OF BIONA 7 +13. CROSSING MONT CENIS 9 +14. "GARIBALDI!" 10 +15. A BIT OF THE VILLAGE OF ZERMATT 12 +16. BRIANÇON 13 +17. MONT PELVOUX FROM ABOVE LA BESSÉE 19 +18. THE GRAND PELVOUX DE VAL LOUISE 21 +19. BUTTRESSES OF MONT PELVOUX 26 +20. PORTRAIT OF THE LATE R. J. S. MACDONALD 29 +21. OUTLINE TO SHOW ROUTE UP MONT PELVOUX 31 +22. THE BLANKET BAG 38 +23. NATURAL PILLAR NEAR MOLINES 40 +24. PORTRAIT OF THE LATE J. J. BENNEN 48 +25. PORTRAIT OF JEAN-ANTOINE CARREL 51 +26. THE COL DU LION: LOOKING TOWARDS THE TÊTE DU LION 53 +27. DIAGRAM TO SHOW MANNER OF FASTENING TENT-POLES 62 +28. THE AUTHOR'S MOUNTAIN TENT 62 +29. CLIMBING CLAW 72 +30. ROPE AND RING 73 +31. AT BREIL (GIOMEIN) 79 +32. THE MATTERHORN FROM BREIL 85 +33. "BUT WHAT IS THIS?" 88 +34. AN ARCH OF THE AQUEDUCT IN THE VAL TOURNANCHE 92 +35. WATER-WORN ROCKS IN THE GORGE BELOW THE GORNER GLACIER 96 +36. STRIATIONS PRODUCED BY GLACIER-ACTION 97 +37. CHAMOIS IN DIFFICULTIES 102 +38. "CARREL LOWERED ME DOWN" 108 +39. PORTRAIT OF THE LATE CANON CARREL OF AOSTA 109 +40. PORTRAIT OF MONSIEUR FAVRE 121 +41. CROSSING THE CHANNEL 123 +42. PORTRAIT OF THE LATE MICHEL-AUGUSTE CROZ 125 +43. PLAN TO SHOW ROUTE 128 +44. THE AIGUILLES D'ARVE, FROM ABOVE THE CHALETS OF RIEU BLANC 130 +45. PORTRAIT OF MELCHIOR ANDEREGG 138 +46. MAP OF THE BRÈCHE DE LA MEIJE, ETC. 140 +47. DIAGRAM TO SHOW ANGLE OF SUMMIT OF MEIJE, ETC. 142 +48. THE VALLON DES ETANÇONS 143 +49. MAP OF THE CENTRAL DAUPHINÉ ALPS 146 +50. THE POINTE DES ECRINS FROM THE COL DU GALIBIER 155 +51. OUTLINE TO SHOW ROUTE UP POINTE DES ECRINS 156 +52. FRAGMENT FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE POINTE DES ECRINS 159 +53. A NIGHT WITH CROZ 164 +54. A SNOW COULOIR 169 +55. PORTRAITS OF MR. REILLY ON A WET DAY 184 +56. OUR CAMP ON MONT SUC 185 +57. ICE-AVALANCHE ON THE MOMING PASS 198 +58. SUMMIT OF THE MOMING PASS 200 +59. FACSIMILE OF A LETTER FROM CROZ 208 +60. PART OF THE SOUTHERN RIDGE OF THE GRAND CORNIER 210 +61. PART OF THE NORTHERN RIDGE OF THE GRAND CORNIER 211 +62. PORTRAIT OF LESLIE STEPHEN 215 +63. THE BERGSCHRUND ON THE DENT BLANCHE 217 +64. PORTRAIT OF T. S. KENNEDY 222 +65. DIAGRAMS TO SHOW DIP OF STRATA ON THE MATTERHORN 229 +66. MY TENT-BEARER--THE HUNCHBACK 234 +67. THE GRANDES JORASSES AND THE DOIRE TORRENT 237 +68. THE SUMMIT OF THE COL DOLENT 241 +69. MY ICE-AXE 243 +70. KENNEDY ICE-AXE 244 +71. LESLIE STEPHEN ICE-AXE 244 +72. CRAMPON 245 +73. PORTRAIT OF CHRISTIAN ALMER 248 +74. ON THE MER DE GLACE 249 +75. WESTERN SIDE OF THE COL DE TALÈFRE 255 +76. GLISSADING 257 +77. THE WRONG WAY TO USE A ROPE ON GLACIER 263 +78. THE RIGHT WAY TO USE A ROPE ON GLACIER 264 +79. "CROZ! CROZ!! COME HERE!" 279 +80. THE SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1865 281 +81. THE ACTUAL SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN 284 +82. ROPE BROKEN ON THE MATTERHORN 287 +83. DIAGRAM OF FOG-BOW 289 +84. PORTRAIT OF MONSIEUR ALEX. SEILER 290 +85. THE MANILLA ROPE BROKEN ON THE MATTERHORN 292 +86. THE "SECOND" ROPE BROKEN ON THE MATTERHORN 293 +87. THE ENGLISH CHURCH AT ZERMATT 294 +88. THE END 298 +89. THE CHAPEL AT THE SCHWARZSEE 310 +90. THE SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1874 (NORTHERN END) 311 +91. "THE THINGS WHICH TUMBLE ABOUT THE EARS OF UNWARY 325 + TRAVELLERS" + + MAPS. + + _To be placed at the end of the Volume._ + + 1. THE MATTERHORN AND ITS GLACIERS (_in colours_). + + 2. THE VALLEY OF ZERMATT; AND THE CENTRAL PENNINE ALPS. + + +The body of the work has been printed by Messrs. WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS; + and the separate Plates have been printed by the AUTHOR. + + + + + + + THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN + + [Illustration: BEACHY HEAD.] + + + + + + CHAPTER I. + + +On the 23d of July 1860, I started for my first tour in the Alps. As we +steamed out into the Channel, Beachy Head came into view, and recalled a +scramble of many years ago. With the impudence of ignorance, my brother(4) +and I, schoolboys both, had tried to scale that great chalk cliff. Not the +head itself--where sea-birds circle, and where the flints are ranged so +orderly in parallel lines--but at a place more to the east, where the +pinnacle called the Devil's Chimney had fallen down. Since that time we +have been often in dangers of different kinds, but never have we more +nearly broken our necks than upon that occasion. + +In Paris I made two ascents. The first to the seventh floor of a house in +the Quartier Latin--to an artist friend, who was engaged, at the moment of +my entry, in combat with a little Jew. He hurled him with great good-will, +and with considerable force, into some of his crockery, and then +recommended me to go up the towers of Notre Dame. Half-an-hour later I +stood on the parapet of the great west front, by the side of the leering +fiend which for centuries has looked down upon the great city, and then +took rail to Switzerland; saw the sunlight lingering on the giants of the +Oberland; heard the echoes from the cow-horns in the Lauterbrunnen valley +and the avalanches rattling off the Jungfrau; and crossed the Gemmi into +the Valais. + + [Illustration: THE DEVIL OF NOTRE DAME.] + +I was bound for the valley of Saas, and my work took me high up the Alps +on either side; far beyond the limit of trees and the tracks of tourists. +The view from the slopes of the Weissmies, on the eastern side of the +valley, 5000 or 6000 feet above the village of Saas, is perhaps the finest +of its kind in the Alps. The full height of the three-peaked Mischabel +(the highest mountain in Switzerland) is seen at one glance; 11,000 feet +of dense forests, green alps, rocky pinnacles, and glittering glaciers. +The peaks seemed to me then to be hopelessly inaccessible from this +direction. + +I next descended the valley to the village of Stalden, and went up the +Visp Thal to Zermatt, and stopped there several days. Numerous traces of +the formidable earthquake-shocks of five years before still remained; +particularly at St. Nicholas, where the inhabitants had been terrified +beyond measure at the destruction of their churches and houses. At this +place, as well as at Visp, a large part of the population was obliged to +live under canvas for several months. It is remarkable that there was +hardly a life lost on this occasion, although there were about fifty +shocks, some of which were very severe. + +At Zermatt I wandered in many directions, but the weather was bad, and my +work was much retarded. One day, after spending a long time in attempts to +sketch near the Hörnli, and in futile endeavours to seize the forms of the +peaks as they for a few seconds peered out from above the dense banks of +woolly clouds, I determined not to return to Zermatt by the usual path, +and to cross the Gorner glacier to the Riffel hotel. After a rapid +scramble over the polished rocks and snowbeds which skirt the base of the +Théodule glacier, and wading through some of the streams which flow from +it, at that time much swollen by the late rains, the first difficulty was +arrived at, in the shape of a precipice about three hundred feet high. It +seemed that it would be easy enough to cross the glacier if the cliff +could be descended; but higher up, and lower down, the ice appeared, to my +inexperienced eyes, to be impassable for a single person. The general +contour of the cliff was nearly perpendicular, but it was a good deal +broken up, and there was little difficulty in descending by zigzagging +from one mass to another. At length there was a long slab, nearly smooth, +fixed at an angle of about forty degrees between two wall-sided pieces of +rock. Nothing, except the glacier, could be seen below. It was an awkward +place, but I passed it at length by lying across the slab, putting the +shoulders stiffly against one side, and the feet against the other, and +gradually wriggling down, by first moving the legs and then the back. When +the bottom of the slab was gained a friendly crack was seen, into which +the point of the baton could be stuck, and I dropped down to the next +piece. It took a long time coming down that little bit of cliff, and for a +few seconds it was satisfactory to see the ice close at hand. In another +moment a second difficulty presented itself. The glacier swept round an +angle of the cliff, and as the ice was not of the nature of treacle or +thin putty, it kept away from the little bay, on the edge of which I +stood. We were not widely separated, but the edge of the ice was higher +than the opposite edge of rock; and worse, the rock was covered with loose +earth and stones which had fallen from above. All along the side of the +cliff, as far as could be seen in both directions, the ice did not touch +it, but there was this marginal crevasse, seven feet wide, and of unknown +depth. + +All this was seen at a glance, and almost at once I concluded that I could +not jump the crevasse, and began to try along the cliff lower down; but +without success, for the ice rose higher and higher, until at last further +progress was stopped by the cliffs becoming perfectly smooth. With an axe +it would have been possible to cut up the side of the ice; without one I +saw there was no alternative but to return and face the jump. + +Night was approaching, and the solemn stillness of the High Alps was +broken only by the sound of rushing water or of falling rocks. If the jump +should be successful,--well; if not, I fell into that horrible chasm, to be +frozen in, or drowned in that gurgling, rushing water. Everything depended +on that jump. Again I asked myself, "Can it be done?" It _must_ be. So, +finding my stick was useless, I threw it and the sketch-book to the ice, +and first retreating as far as possible, ran forward with all my might, +took the leap, barely reached the other side, and fell awkwardly on my +knees. + +The glacier was crossed without further trouble, but the Riffel,(5) which +was then a very small building, was crammed with tourists, and could not +take me in. As the way down was unknown to me, some of the people +obligingly suggested getting a man at the chalets, otherwise the path +would be certainly lost in the forest. On arriving at the chalets no man +could be found, and the lights of Zermatt, shining through the trees, +seemed to say, "Never mind a guide, but come along down, I'll show you the +way;" so off I went through the forest, going straight towards them. The +path was lost in a moment, and was never recovered. I was tripped up by +pine-roots, tumbled over rhododendron bushes, fell over rocks. The night +was pitch dark, and after a time the lights of Zermatt became obscure, or +went out altogether. By a series of slides, or falls, or evolutions more +or less disagreeable, the descent through the forest was at length +accomplished; but torrents of formidable character had still to be passed +before one could arrive at Zermatt. I felt my way about for hours, almost +hopelessly; by an exhaustive process at last discovering a bridge, and +about midnight, covered with dirt and scratches, re-entered the inn which +I had quitted in the morning. + + [Illustration: The church in difficulties] + +Others besides tourists get into difficulties. A day or two afterwards, +when on the way to my old station, near the Hörnli, I met a stout curé who +had essayed to cross the Théodule pass. His strength or his wind had +failed, and he was being carried down, a helpless bundle and a ridiculous +spectacle, on the back of a lanky guide; while the peasants stood by, with +folded hands, their reverence for the church almost overcome by their +sense of the ludicrous. + +I descended the valley, diverging from the path at Randa to mount the +slopes of the Dom,(6) in order to see the Weisshorn face to face. The +latter mountain is the noblest in Switzerland, and from this direction it +looks especially magnificent. On its north there is a large snowy plateau +that feeds the glacier of which a portion is seen from Randa, and which on +more than one occasion has destroyed that village. From the direction of +the Dom (that is, immediately opposite) this Bies glacier seems to descend +nearly vertically. It does not do so, although it is very steep. Its size +is much less than formerly, and the lower portion, now divided into three +tails, clings in a strange, weird-like manner to the cliffs, to which it +seems scarcely possible that it can remain attached. + + [Illustration: At the St. Bernard] + +Arriving once more in the Rhone valley, I proceeded to Viesch, and from +thence ascended the Eggischorn; on which unpleasant eminence I lost my way +in a fog, and my temper shortly afterwards. Then, after crossing the +Grimsel in a severe thunderstorm, passed on to Brienz, Interlachen, and +Bern; and thence to Fribourg and Morat, Neuchâtel, Martigny, and the St. +Bernard. The massive walls of the convent were a welcome sight as I waded +through the snow-beds near the summit of the pass, and pleasant also was +the courteous salutation of the brother who bade me enter. He wondered at +the weight of my knapsack, and I at the hardness of his bread. The saying +that the monks make the toast in the winter that they give to tourists in +the following season is not founded on truth; the winter is their most +busy time of the year. But it _is_ true they have exercised so much +hospitality, that at times they have not possessed the means to furnish +the fuel for heating their chapel in the winter.(7) + +Instead of descending to Aosta, I turned aside into the Val Pelline, in +order to obtain views of the Dent d'Erin. The night had come on before +Biona was gained, and I had to knock long and loud upon the door of the +curé's house before it was opened. An old woman, with querulous voice, and +with a large goître, answered the summons, and demanded rather sharply +what was wanted; but became pacific--almost good-natured--when a five-franc +piece was held in her face, and she heard that lodging and supper were +requested in exchange. + + [Illustration: THE VILLAGE OF BIONA.] + +My directions asserted that a passage existed from Prerayen, at the head +of this valley, to Breil,(8) in the Val Tournanche, and the old woman, now +convinced of my respectability, busied herself to find a guide. Presently +she introduced a native, picturesquely attired in high-peaked hat, braided +jacket, scarlet waistcoat, and indigo pantaloons, who agreed to take me to +the village of Val Tournanche. We set off early on the next morning, and +got to the summit of the pass without difficulty. It gave me my first +experience of considerable slopes of hard steep snow, and, like all +beginners, I endeavoured to prop myself up with my stick, and kept it +_outside_, instead of holding it between myself and the slope, and leaning +upon it, as should have been done. The man enlightened me; but he had, +properly, a very small opinion of his employer, and it is probably on that +account that, a few minutes after we had passed the summit, he said he +would not go any further and would return to Biona. All argument was +useless; he stood still, and to everything that was said answered nothing +but that he would go back. Being rather nervous about descending some long +snow-slopes, which still intervened between us and the head of the valley, +I offered more pay, and he went on a little way. Presently there were some +cliffs down which we had to scramble. He called to me to stop, then +shouted that he would go back, and beckoned to me to come up. On the +contrary, I waited for him to come down; but instead of doing so, in a +second or two he turned round, clambered deliberately up the cliff, and +vanished. I supposed it was only a ruse to extort offers of more money, +and waited for half-an-hour, but he did not appear again. This was rather +embarrassing, for he carried off my knapsack. The choice of action lay +between chasing him and going on to Breil, risking the loss of my +knapsack. I chose the latter course, and got to Breil the same evening. +The landlord of the inn, suspicious of a person entirely innocent of +luggage, was doubtful if he could admit me, and eventually thrust me into +a kind of loft, which was already occupied by guides and by hay. In later +years we became good friends, and he did not hesitate to give credit and +even to advance considerable sums. + +My sketches from Breil were made under difficulties, for my materials had +been carried off. Nothing better than fine sugar-paper could be obtained, +and the pencils seemed to contain more silica than plumbago. However, they +_were_ made, and the pass(9) was again crossed, this time alone. By the +following evening the old woman of Biona again produced the faithless +guide. The knapsack was recovered after the lapse of several hours, and +then I poured forth all the terms of abuse and reproach of which I was +master. The man smiled when called a liar, and shrugged his shoulders when +referred to as a thief, but drew his knife when spoken of as a pig. + + [Illustration: CROSSING MONT CENIS.] + +The following night was spent at Courmayeur, and the day after I crossed +the Col Ferret to Orsières, and on the next the Tête Noire to Chamounix. +The Emperor Napoleon arrived on the same day, and access to the Mer de +Glace was refused to tourists; but, by scrambling along the Plan des +Aiguilles, I managed to outwit the guards, and to arrive at the Montanvert +as the Imperial party was leaving: the same afternoon failing to get to +the Jardin, but very nearly succeeding in breaking a leg by dislodging +great rocks on the moraine of the glacier. + + [Illustration: "GARIBALDI!"] + +From Chamounix I went to Geneva, and thence by the Mont Cenis to Turin and +to the Vaudois valleys. A long and weary day had ended when Paesana was +reached. The inn was full, and I was tired, and about to go to bed, when +some village stragglers entered and began to sing. They sang to Garibaldi! +The tenor, a ragged fellow, whose clothes were not worth a shilling, took +the lead with wonderful expression and feeling. The others kept their +places, and sang in admirable time. For hours I sat enchanted; and, long +after I retired, the sound of their melody could be heard, relieved at +times by the treble of the girl who belonged to the inn. + +The next morning I passed the little lakes, which are the sources of the +Po, on my way into France. The weather was stormy, and misinterpreting the +patois of some natives--who in reality pointed out the right way--I missed +the track, and found myself under the cliffs of Monte Viso. A gap that was +occasionally seen, in the ridge connecting it with the mountains to the +east, tempted me up; and, after a battle with a snow-slope of excessive +steepness, I reached the summit. The scene was extraordinary, and, in my +experience, unique. To the north there was not a particle of mist, and the +violent wind coming from that direction blew one back staggering. But on +the side of Italy, the valleys were completely filled with dense masses of +cloud to a certain level; and there--where they felt the influence of the +wind--they were cut off as level as the top of a table, the ridges +appearing above them. + +I raced down to Abries, and went on through the gorge of the Guil to Mont +Dauphin. The next day found me at La Bessée, at the junction of the Val +Louise with the valley of the Durance, in full view of Mont Pelvoux; and +by chance I walked into a cabaret where a Frenchman was breakfasting, who, +a few days before, had made an unsuccessful attempt to ascend that +mountain with three Englishmen and the guide Michel Croz of Chamounix;(10) +a right good fellow, by name Jean Reynaud. + +The same night I slept at Briançon, intending to take the courier on the +following day to Grenoble; but all places had been secured several days +beforehand, so I set out at two P.M. on the next day for a seventy-mile +walk. The weather was again bad; and on the summit of the Col de Lautaret +I was forced to seek shelter in the wretched little hospice. It was filled +with workmen who were employed on the road, and with noxious vapours which +proceeded from them. The inclemency of the weather was preferable to the +inhospitality of the interior. Outside, it was disagreeable, but grand; +inside, it was disagreeable and mean.(11) The walk was continued under a +deluge of rain, and I felt the way down--so intense was the darkness--to the +village of La Grave, where the people of the inn detained me forcibly. It +was perhaps fortunate that they did so; for, during that night, blocks of +rock fell at several places from the cliffs on to the road with such force +that they made large pits in the macadam. I resumed the walk at half-past +five the next morning, and proceeded, under steady rain, through Bourg +d'Oysans to Grenoble, arriving at the latter place soon after seven P.M., +having accomplished the entire distance from Briançon in about eighteen +hours of actual walking. + + + +This was the end of the Alpine portion of my tour of 1860, on which I was +introduced to the great peaks, and acquired the passion for +mountain-scrambling, the development of which is described in the +following chapters. + + [Illustration: A BIT OF THE VILLAGE OF ZERMATT.] + + [Illustration: BRIANÇON.] + + + + + + CHAPTER II. + + + THE ASCENT OF MONT PELVOUX. + + + "Thus fortune on our first endeavour smiles." + VIRGIL. + + +The district of which Mont Pelvoux and the neighbouring summits are the +culminating points,(12) is, both historically and topographically, one of +the most interesting in the Alps. As the nursery and the home of the +Vaudois, it has claims to permanent attention. The names of Waldo and of +Neff will be remembered when men more famous in their time will be +forgotten; and the memory of the heroic courage and the simple piety of +their disciples will endure as long as history lasts. + +This district contains the highest summits in France, and some of its +finest scenery. It has not perhaps the beauties of Switzerland, but has +charms of its own; its cliffs, its torrents, and its gorges are +unsurpassed; its deep and savage valleys present pictures of grandeur, and +even sublimity, and it is second to none in the boldness of its mountain +forms. + +The district includes a mass of valleys which vie with each other in +singularity of character and dissimilarity of climate. Some the rays of +the sun can never reach, they are so deep and narrow.(13) In others the +very antipodes may be found; the temperature more like that of the plains +of Italy than of Alpine France. This great range of climate has a marked +effect on the flora of these valleys. Sterility reigns in some; stones +take the place of trees; débris and mud replace plants and flowers: in +others, in the space of a few miles, one passes vines, apple, pear, and +cherry trees, the birch, alder, walnut, ash, larch, and pine, alternating +with fields of rye, barley, oats, beans, and potatoes. + +The valleys are for the most part short and erratic. They are not, +apparently, arranged on any definite plan. They are not disposed, as is +frequently the case elsewhere, either at right angles to, or parallel +with, the highest summits; but they wander hither and thither, take one +direction for a few miles, then double back, and then perhaps resume their +original course. Thus, long perspectives are rarely to be seen, and it is +difficult to form a general idea of the disposition of the peaks. + +The highest summits are arranged almost in a horse-shoe form. The highest +of all, which occupies a central position, is the Pointe des Ecrins; the +second in height, the Meije,(14) is on the north; and the Mont Pelvoux, +which gives its name to the entire block, stands almost detached by itself +on the outside. + +The district is still very imperfectly known; there are probably many +valleys, and there are certainly many summits which have never been +trodden by the feet of tourists or travellers; but in 1861 it was even +less known. Until quite recently there was, practically, no map of it;(15) +General Bourcet's, which was the best that was published, was completely +wrong in its delineation of the mountains, and was frequently incorrect in +regard to paths or roads. + +The mountainous regions of Dauphiné, moreover, are not supplied, like +Switzerland, Tyrol, or even the Italian valleys, with accommodation for +travellers. The inns, when they exist, are often filthy beyond +description; rest is seldom obtained in their beds, or decent food found +in their kitchens, and there are no local guides worth having. The tourist +is thrown very much on his own resources, and it is not therefore +surprising that these districts are less visited and less known than the +rest of the Alps. + +Most of the statements current in 1861 respecting these mountains had been +derived from two authors(16)--M. Elie de Beaumont and the late Principal J. +D. Forbes. Their works, however, contained numerous errors in regard to +the identification of the peaks, and, amongst others, they referred the +supremacy to the Mont Pelvoux, the highest point of which they termed the +Pointe des Arcines, or des Ecrins. Principal Forbes erroneously identified +the high peak seen from the valley of St. Christophe, with that seen from +the valley of the Durance, and spoke of both as the Mont Pelvoux, and M. +de Beaumont committed similar mistakes. In point of fact, at the time when +M. de Beaumont and Forbes wrote their respective memoirs, the proper +relation of the Mont Pelvoux to the neighbouring summits had been +determined by the engineers employed on the survey for the map of France, +but their observations were not then accessible to the public, although +they had evidently been seen by M. de Beaumont. This party of surveyors, +led by Captain Durand, made the ascent of Mont Pelvoux from the side of +the Val d'Ailefroide--that is, from the direction of Val Louise--in 1828. +According to the natives of the Val Louise, they got to the top of the +second peak in height, and remained upon it, lodged in a tent for several +days, at a height of 12,904 feet. They took numerous porters to carry wood +for fires, and erected a large cairn on the summit, which has caused the +name of Pic de la Pyramide to be given to their summit. + +In 1848, M. Puiseux made the ascent from the same direction, but his Val +Louisan guide stopped short of the summit, and allowed this courageous +astronomer to proceed by himself.(17) + +In the middle of August 1860, Messrs. Bonney, Hawkshaw, and Mathews, with +Michel Croz of Chamounix, tried to ascend the Pelvoux, likewise from the +same direction. These gentlemen spent several days and nights upon the +mountain; and, encountering bad weather, only attained a height of 10,430 +feet. + +M. Jean Reynaud, of whom mention has been made in the preceding chapter, +accompanied the party of Mr. Mathews, and he was of opinion that the +attempt had been made too late in the season. He said that the weather was +usually good enough for high mountain ascents _only_ during the last few +days of July, and the first ones of August,(18) and suggested that we +should attempt to ascend the mountain in the following year at that time. +The proposition was a tempting one, and Reynaud's cordial and modest +manner made it irresistible, although there seemed small chance that we +should succeed where a party such as that of Mr. Mathews had been beaten. + +At the beginning of July 1861, I despatched to Reynaud from Havre, +blankets (which were taxed as "prohibited fabrics"), rope, and other +things desirable for the excursion, and set out on the tour of France; +but, four weeks later, at Nîmes, found myself completely collapsed by the +heat, then 94° Faht. in the shade, and took a night train at once to +Grenoble. + +Grenoble is a town upon which a volume might be written. Its situation is +probably the finest of any in France, and the views from its high forts +are superb. I lost my way in the streets of this picturesque and noisome +town, and having but a half-hour left in which to get a dinner and take a +place in the diligence, was not well pleased to hear that an Englishman +wished to see me. It turned out to be my friend Macdonald, who confided to +me that he was going to try to ascend a mountain called Pelvoux in the +course of ten days. On hearing of my intentions, he agreed to join us at +La Bessée on the 3rd of August. In a few moments more I was perched in the +banquette _en route_ for Bourg d'Oysans, in a miserable vehicle which took +nearly eight hours to accomplish less than 30 miles. + +At five on a lovely morning I shouldered my knapsack and started for +Briançon. Gauzy mists clung to the mountains, but melted away when touched +by the sun, and disappeared by jerks (in the manner of views when focussed +in a magic lantern), revealing the wonderfully bent and folded strata in +the limestone cliffs behind the town. Then I entered the Combe de Malval, +and heard the Romanche eating its way through that wonderful gorge, and +passed on to Le Dauphin, where the first glacier came into view, tailing +over the mountain-side on the right. From this place until the summit of +the Col de Lautaret was passed, every gap in the mountains showed a +glittering glacier or a soaring peak; the finest view was at La Grave, +where the Meije rises by a series of tremendous precipices 8000 feet above +the road.(19) The finest distant view of the pass is seen after crossing +the Col, near Monêtier. A mountain, commonly supposed to be Monte Viso, +appears at the end of the vista, shooting into the sky;(20) in the middle +distance, but still ten miles off, is Briançon with its interminable +forts, and in the foreground, leading down to the Guisane, and rising high +up the neighbouring slopes, are fertile fields, studded with villages and +church spires. The next day I walked over from Briançon to La Bessée, to +my worthy friend Jean Reynaud, the surveyor of roads of his district. + +All the peaks of Mont Pelvoux are well seen from La Bessée--the highest +point, as well as that upon which the engineers erected their cairn. +Neither Reynaud nor any one else knew this. The natives knew only that the +engineers had ascended one peak, and had seen from that one a still higher +point, which they called the Pointe des Arcines or des Ecrins. They could +not say whether this latter could be seen from La Bessée, nor could they +tell the peak upon which the cairn had been erected. We were under the +impression that the highest point was concealed by the peaks which we saw, +and would be gained by passing over them. They knew nothing of the ascent +of Monsieur Puiseux, and they confidently asserted that the highest point +of Mont Pelvoux had not been attained by any one. It was this point we +wished to reach. + + [Illustration: MONT PELVOUX FROM ABOVE LA BESSÉE.] + +Nothing prevented our starting at once but the absence of Macdonald and +the want of a bâton. Reynaud suggested a visit to the postmaster, who +possessed a bâton of local celebrity. Down we went to the bureau; but it +was closed: we halloed through the slits, but no answer. At last the +postmaster was discovered endeavouring (with very fair success) to make +himself intoxicated. He was just able to ejaculate, "France! 'tis the +first nation in the world!" which is a phrase used by a Frenchman at times +when a Briton would begin to shout, "We won't go home till +morning"--national glory being uppermost in the thoughts of one, and home +in those of the other. The bâton was produced; it was a branch of a young +oak, about five feet long, gnarled and twisted in several directions. +"Sir," said the postmaster, as he presented it, "France! 'tis the +first--the first nation in the world, by its"--he stuck. "Bâtons?" I +suggested. "Yes, yes, sir; by its bâtons, by its--its," and here he could +not get on at all. As I looked at this young limb, I thought of my own; +but Reynaud, who knew everything about everybody in the village, said +there was not a better one, so off we went with it, leaving the official +staggering in the road and muttering, "France! 'tis the first nation in +the world!" + +The 3rd of August came, and Macdonald did not appear, so we started for +the Val Louise; our party consisting of Reynaud, myself, and a porter, +Jean Casimir Giraud, nicknamed "little nails," the shoemaker of the place. +An hour and a half's smart walking took us to La Ville de Val Louise, our +hearts gladdened by the glorious peaks of Pelvoux shining out without a +cloud around them. I renewed acquaintance with the mayor of "La Ville." +His aspect was original, and his manners were gracious, but the odour +which proceeded from him was dreadful. + +Reynaud kindly undertook to look after the commissariat, and I found to my +annoyance, when we were about to leave, that I had given tacit consent to +a small wine-cask being carried with us, which was a great nuisance from +the commencement. It was excessively awkward to handle; one man tried to +carry it, and then another, and at last it was slung from one of our +bâtons, and was carried by two of us, which gave our party the appearance +of a mechanical diagram to illustrate the uses of levers. + +At "La Ville" the Val Louise splits into two branches--the Val d'Entraigues +on the left and the Vallon d'Alefred (or Ailefroide) on the right; our +route was up the latter, and we moved steadily forwards to the village of +La Pisse, where Pierre Sémiond lived, who was reputed to know more about +the Pelvoux than any other man. He looked an honest fellow, but +unfortunately he was ill and could not come. He recommended his brother, +an aged creature, whose furrowed and wrinkled face hardly seemed to +announce the man we wanted; but having no choice, we engaged him and again +set forth. Walnut and a great variety of other trees gave shadow to our +path and fresh vigour to our limbs; while below, in a sublime gorge, +thundered the torrent, whose waters took their rise from the snows we +hoped to tread on the morrow. + + [Illustration: THE GRAND PELVOUX DE VAL LOUISE.] + +The Pelvoux could not be seen at La Ville, owing to a high intervening +ridge; we were now moving along the foot of this to get to the châlets of +Alefred, or, as they are sometimes called, Aléfroide, where the mountain +actually commences. From these châlets the subordinate, but more +proximate, peaks appear considerably higher than the loftier ones behind, +and sometimes completely conceal them. But the whole height of the peak, +which in these valleys goes under the name of the "Grand Pelvoux," is seen +at one glance from its summit to its base, six or seven thousand feet of +nearly perpendicular cliffs. + +The châlets of Alefred are a cluster of miserable wooden huts at the foot +of the Grand Pelvoux, and are close to the junction of the streams which +descend from the glacier de Sapenière (or du Selé) on the left, and the +glaciers Blanc and Noir on the right. We rested a minute to purchase some +butter and milk, and Sémiond picked up a disreputable-looking lad to +assist in carrying, pushing, and otherwise moving the wine-cask. + +Our route now turned sharply to the left, and all were glad that the day +was drawing to a close, so that we had the shadows from the mountains. A +more frightful and desolate valley it is scarcely possible to imagine; it +contains miles of boulders, débris, stones, sand, and mud; few trees, and +they placed so high as to be almost out of sight; not a soul inhabits it; +no birds are in the air, no fish in its waters; the mountain is too steep +for the chamois, its slopes too inhospitable for the marmot, the whole too +repulsive for the eagle. Not a living thing did we see in this sterile and +savage valley during four days, except some few poor goats which had been +driven there against their will. + +It was a scene in keeping with the diabolical deed perpetrated here about +four hundred years ago--the murder of the Vaudois of Val Louise, in the +cavern which was now in sight, though high above us. Their story is very +sad. Peaceful and industrious, for more than three centuries they had +inhabited these retired valleys in tranquil obscurity. The Archbishops of +Embrun endeavoured, though with little success, to get them within the +pale of their church. Their efforts were aided by others, who commenced by +imprisonments and torture,(21) and at last adopted the method of burning +them by hundreds at the stake.(22) + +In the year 1488, Albert Cattanée, Archdeacon of Cremona and legate of +Pope Innocent VIII., would have anticipated the barbarities which at a +later date roused the indignation of Milton and the fears of Cromwell;(23) +but, driven everywhere back by the Waldenses of Piedmont, he left their +valleys and crossed the Mont Genèvre to attack the weaker and more thinly +populated valleys of the Vaudois in Dauphiné. At the head of an army which +is said to have been composed of vagabonds, robbers, and assassins (who +had been tempted to his banner by promises of absolution beforehand, of +being set free from the obligation of vows which they might have made, and +by the confirmation of property to them which they might have wrongfully +acquired), as well as regular troops, Cattanée poured down the valley of +the Durance. The inhabitants of the Val Louise fled before a host that was +ten times their number, and took up their abode in this cavern, where they +had collected provisions sufficient for two years. But intolerance is ever +painstaking; their retreat was discovered. Cattanée had a captain who +combined the resources of a Herod to the cruelty of a Pelissier, and, +lowering his men by ropes, fired piles of brushwood at the entrance to the +cavern, suffocated the majority, and slew the remainder. The Vaudois were +relentlessly exterminated, without distinction of age or sex. More than +three thousand persons, it is said, perished in this frightful massacre; +the growth of three hundred and fifty years was destroyed at one blow, and +the valley was completely depopulated. Louis XII. caused it to be +re-peopled, and, after another three centuries and a half, behold the +result--a race of monkeys.(24) + +We rested a little at a small spring, and then hastened onwards till we +nearly arrived at the foot of the Sapenière glacier, when Sémiond said we +must turn to the right, up the slopes. This we did, and clambered for +half-an-hour through scattered firs and fallen boulders. Then evening +began to close in rapidly, and it was time to look for a resting-place. +There was no difficulty in getting one, for all around there was a chaotic +assemblage of rocks. We selected the under side of a boulder which was +more than fifty feet long by twenty high, cleared out the rubbish, and +then collected wood for a fire. + +I have a pleasant recollection of that camp-fire. The wine-cask had got +through all its troubles; it was tapped, and the Frenchmen seemed to +derive some consolation from its execrable contents. Reynaud chanted +scraps of French songs, and each contributed his share of joke, story, or +verse. The weather was perfect, and our prospects for the morrow were +good. My companions' joy culminated when a packet of red fir was thrown +into the flames. It hissed and bubbled for a moment or two, and then broke +out into a grand flare. The effect of the momentary light was magnificent; +the mountains all around were illuminated for a second, and then relapsed +into their solemn gloom. One by one our party dropped off to sleep, and at +last I got into my blanket-bag. It was hardly necessary, for although we +were at a height of at least 7000 feet, the minimum temperature was above +40° Fahrenheit. + +We roused at three, and made a start at half-past four. Giraud had been +engaged as far as this rock only, but as he wished to go on, we allowed +him to accompany us. We mounted the slopes and quickly got above the +trees, then had a couple of hours' clambering over bits of precipitous +rock and banks of débris, and, at a quarter to seven, got to a narrow +glacier--Clos de l'Homme--which streamed out of the plateau on the summit, +and nearly reached the glacier de Sapenière. We worked as much as possible +to the right, in hopes that we should not have to cross it, but were +continually driven back, and at last we found that over we must go. Old +Sémiond had a strong objection to the ice, and made explorations on his +own account to endeavour to avoid it; but Reynaud and I preferred to cross +it, and Giraud stuck to us. It was narrow--in fact, one could throw a stone +across--and it was easily mounted on the side; but in the centre swelled +into a steep dome, up which we were obliged to cut. Giraud stepped forward +and said he should like to try his hand, and having got hold of the axe, +would not give it up; and here, as well as afterwards when it was +necessary to cross the gullies filled with hard snow, which abound on the +higher part of the mountain, he did all the work, and did it admirably. + +Old Sémiond of course came after us when we got across. We then zigzagged +up some snow-slopes, and shortly afterwards commenced to ascend the +interminable array of buttresses which are the great peculiarity of the +Pelvoux.(25) They were very steep in many places, yet on the whole +afforded good hold, and no climbing should be called difficult which does +that. Gullies abounded among them, sometimes of great length and depth. +_They_ were frequently rotten, and would have been difficult for a single +man to pass. The uppermost men were continually abused for dislodging +rocks and for harpooning those below with their bâtons. However, without +these incidents the climbing would have been dull--they helped to break the +monotony. + +We went up chimneys and gullies by the hour together, and always seemed to +be coming to something, although we never got to it. The outline sketch +will help to explain the situation. We stood at the foot of a great +buttress--perhaps about 200 feet high--and looked up. It did not go to a +point as in the diagram, because we could not see the top; although we +felt convinced that behind the fringe of pinnacles we did see there was a +top, and that _it_ was the edge of the plateau we so much desired to +attain. Up we mounted, and reached the pinnacles; but, lo! another set was +seen,--and another,--and yet more--till at last we reached the top, and found +it was only a buttress, and that we must descend 40 or 50 feet before we +could commence to mount again. When this operation had been performed a +few dozen times, it began to be wearisome, especially as we were in the +dark as to our whereabouts. Sémiond, however, encouraged us, and said he +knew we were on the right route,--so away we went once more. + + [Illustration: BUTTRESSES OF MONT PELVOUX.] + +It was now nearly mid-day, and we seemed no nearer the summit of the +Pelvoux than when we started. At last we all joined together and held a +council. "Sémiond, old friend, do you know where we are now?" "Oh yes, +perfectly, to a yard and a half." "Well, then, how much are we below this +plateau?" He affirmed we were not half-an-hour from the edge of the snow. +"Very good; let us proceed." Half-an-hour passed, and then another, but we +were still in the same state,--pinnacles, buttresses, and gullies were in +profusion, but the plateau was not in sight. So we called him again--for he +had been staring about latterly, as if in doubt--and repeated the question. +"How far below are we now?" Well, he thought it might be half-an-hour +more. "But you said that just now; are you sure we are going right?" Yes, +he believed we were. Believed! that would not do. "Are you sure we are +going right for the Pic des Arcines?" "Pic des Arcines!" he ejaculated in +astonishment, as if he had heard the words for the first time. "Pic des +Arcines; no! but for the pyramid, the celebrated pyramid he had helped the +great Capitaine Durand," &c. + +Here was a fix;--we had been talking about it to him for a whole day, and +now he confessed he knew nothing about it. I turned to Reynaud, who seemed +thunderstruck. "What did he suggest?" He shrugged his shoulders. "Well," +we said, after explaining our minds pretty freely to Sémiond, "the sooner +we turn back the better, for we have no wish to see your pyramid." + +We halted for an hour, and then commenced the descent. It took us nearly +seven hours to come down to our rock; but I paid no heed to the distance, +and do not remember anything about it. When we got down we made a +discovery which affected us as much as the footprint in the sand did +Robinson Crusoe: a blue silk veil lay by our fireside. There was but one +explanation,--Macdonald had arrived; but where was he? We soon packed our +baggage, and tramped in the dusk, through the stony desert, to Alefred, +where we arrived about half-past nine. "Where is the Englishman?" was the +first question. He was gone to sleep at La Ville. + +We passed that night in a hay-loft, and in the morning, after settling +with Sémiond, posted down to catch Macdonald. We had already determined on +the plan of operation, which was to get him to join us, return, and be +independent of all guides, simply taking the best man we could get as a +porter. I set my heart on Giraud,--a good fellow, with no pretence, +although in every respect up to the work. We were disappointed; he was +obliged to go to Briançon. + +The walk soon became exciting. The natives inquired the result of our +expedition, and common civility obliged us to stop. But I was afraid of +losing my man, for it was said he would wait only till ten o'clock, and +that time was near at hand. At last I dashed over the bridge,--time from +Alefred an hour and a quarter. A cantonnier stopped me, saying that the +Englishman had just started for La Bessée. I rushed after him, turned +angle after angle of the road, but could not see him; at last, as I came +round a corner, he was also just turning another, going very fast. I +shouted, and luckily he heard me. We returned, reprovisioned ourselves at +La Ville, and the same evening saw us passing our first rock, _en route_ +for another. I have said we determined to take no guide; but, on passing +La Pisse, old Sémiond turned out and offered his services. He went well, +in spite of his years and disregard of truth. "Why not take him?" said my +friend. So we offered him a fifth of his previous pay, and in a few +seconds he closed with the offer. This time he came in an inferior +position,--we were to lead, he to follow. Our second follower was a youth +of twenty-seven years, who was not all that could be desired. He drank +Reynaud's wine, smoked our cigars, and quietly secreted the provisions +when we were nearly starving. Discovery of his proceedings did not at all +disconcert him, and he finished up by getting several items added to our +bill at La Ville, which, not a little to his disgust, we disallowed. + +This night we fixed our camp high above the tree-line, and indulged +ourselves in the healthy employment of carrying our fuel up to it. The +present rock was not so comfortable as the first, and, before we could +settle down, we were obliged to turn out a large mass which was in the +way. It was very obstinate, but moved at length; slowly and gently at +first, then faster and faster, at last taking great jumps in the air, +striking a stream of fire at every touch, which shone out brightly as it +entered the gloomy valley below, and long after it was out of sight, we +heard it bounding downwards, and then settle with a subdued crash on the +glacier beneath. As we turned back from this curious sight, Reynaud asked +if we had ever seen a torrent on fire, and told us that in the spring the +Durance, swollen by the melting of the snow, sometimes brings down so many +rocks that, where it passes through a narrow gorge at La Bessée, no water +whatever is seen, but only boulders rolling over and over, grinding each +other into powder, and striking so many sparks that the stream looks as if +it were on fire. + +We had another merry evening with nothing to mar it; the weather was +perfect, and we lay backward in luxurious repose, looking at the sky +spangled with its ten thousand brilliant lights. + + ... "The ranges stood + Transfigured in the silver flood, + Their snows were flashing cold and keen, + Dead white, save where some sharp ravine + Took shadow, or the sombre green + Of hemlocks turned to pitchy black, + Against the whiteness at their back."(26) + + [Illustration: Portrait of the late R. J. S. Macdonald] + +Macdonald related his experiences over the café noir. He had travelled day +and night for several days in order to join us, but had failed to find our +first bivouac, and had camped a few hundred yards from us under another +rock, higher up the mountain. The next morning he discerned us going along +a ridge at a great height above him, and as it was useless to endeavour to +overtake us, he lay down and watched with a heavy heart until we had +turned the corner of a buttress, and vanished out of sight. + +Nothing but the heavy breathing of our already sound asleep comrades broke +the solemn stillness of the night. It was a silence to be felt. Nothing? +Hark! what is that dull booming sound above us? Is that nothing? There it +is again, plainer--on it comes, nearer, clearer; 'tis a crag escaped from +the heights above! What a fearful crash! We jump to our feet. Down it +comes with awful fury; what power can withstand its violence? Dancing, +leaping, flying; dashing against others; roaring as it descends. Ah, it +has passed! No; there it is again, and we hold our breath, as, with +resistless force and explosions like artillery, it darts past, with an +avalanche of shattered fragments trailing in its rear! 'Tis gone, and we +breathe more freely as we hear the finale on the glacier below.(27) + +We retired at last, but I was too excited to sleep. At a quarter-past four +every man once more shouldered his pack and started. This time we agreed +to keep more to the right, to see if it were not possible to get to the +plateau without losing any time by crossing the glacier. To describe our +route would be to repeat what has been said before. We mounted steadily +for an hour and a half, sometimes walking, though more frequently +climbing, and then found, after all, that it was necessary to cross the +glacier. The part on which we struck came down a very steep slope, and was +much crevassed. The word crevassed hardly expresses its appearance--it was +a mass of formidable séracs. We found, however, more difficulty in getting +on than across it; and, thanks to the rope, it was passed in safety. Then +the interminable buttresses began again. Hour after hour we proceeded +upwards, frequently at fault, and obliged to descend. The ridge behind us +had sunk long ago, and we looked over it, and all others, till our eyes +rested on the majestic Viso. Hour after hour passed, and monotony was the +order of the day. When twelve o'clock came we lunched, and contemplated +the scene with satisfaction; all the summits in sight, with the single +exception of the Viso, had given in, and we looked over an immense +expanse--a perfect sea of peaks and snow-fields. Still the pinnacles rose +above us, and opinions were freely uttered that we should see no summit of +Pelvoux that day. Old Sémiond had become a perfect bore to all; whenever +one rested for a moment to look about, he would say, with a complacent +chuckle, "Don't be afraid, follow me." We came at last to a very bad +piece, rotten and steep, and no hold. Here Reynaud and Macdonald confessed +to being tired, and talked of going to sleep. A way was discovered out of +the difficulty; then some one called out, "Look at the Viso!" and we saw +that we almost looked over it. We worked away with redoubled energy, and +at length caught sight of the head of the glacier as it streamed out of +the plateau. This gave us fresh hopes; we were not deceived; and with a +simultaneous shout we greeted the appearance of our long-wished-for snows. +A large crevasse separated us from them; but a bridge was found; we tied +ourselves in line, and moved safely over it. Directly we got across, there +rose before us a fine snow-capped peak. Old Sémiond cried, "The pyramid! I +see the pyramid!" "Where, Sémiond, where?" "There; on the top of that +peak." + + [Illustration: Outline to show route up Mont Pelvoux] + +There, sure enough, was the cairn he had helped to erect more than thirty +years before. Where was the Pic des Arcines which we were to see? It was +nowhere visible--there was only a great expanse of snow, bordered by three +lower peaks. Somewhat sadly we moved towards the pyramid, sighing that +there was no other to conquer; but hardly had we gone two hundred paces, +before there rose a superb white cone on the left, which had been hidden +before by a slope of snow. We shouted, "The Pic des Arcines!" and inquired +of Sémiond if he knew whether that peak had been ascended. As for him, he +knew nothing, except that the peak before us was called the pyramid, from +the cairn he had, etc. etc., and that it had not been ascended since. "All +right then--face about," and we immediately turned at right angles for the +cone, the porter making faint struggles for his beloved pyramid. Our +progress was stopped, in the sixth of a mile, by the edge of the ridge +connecting the two peaks, and we perceived that it curled over in a lovely +volute. We involuntarily retreated. Sémiond, who was last in the line, +took the opportunity to untie himself, and refused to come on; said we +were running dangerous risks, and talked vaguely of crevasses. We tied him +up again, and proceeded. The snow was very soft; we were always knee-deep, +and sometimes floundered in up to the waist; but a simultaneous jerk +before and behind always released one. By this time we had arrived at the +foot of the final peak. The left-hand ridge seemed easier than that upon +which we stood, so we curved round to get to it. Some rocks peeped out 150 +feet below the summit, and up these we crawled, leaving our porter behind, +as he said he was afraid. I could not resist the temptation, as we went +off, to turn round and beckon him onwards, saying, "Don't be afraid--follow +me," but he did not answer to the appeal, and never went to the top. The +rocks led to a short ridge of ice--our plateau on one side, and a nearly +vertical precipice on the other. Macdonald cut up it, and at a quarter to +two we stood shaking hands on the loftiest summit of the conquered +Pelvoux. + +The day still continued everything that could be desired, and, far and +near, countless peaks burst into sight, without a cloud to hide them. The +mighty Mont Blanc, full seventy miles away, first caught our eyes, and +then, still farther off, the Monte Rosa group; while, rolling away to the +east, one unknown range after another succeeded in unveiled splendour; +fainter and fainter in tone, but still perfectly defined, till at last the +eye was unable to distinguish sky from mountain, and they died away in the +far-off horizon. Monte Viso rose up grandly, but it was less than forty +miles away, and we looked over it to a hazy mass we knew must be the +plains of Piedmont. Southwards a blue mist seemed to indicate the +existence of the distant Mediterranean; to the west we looked over to the +mountains of Auvergne. Such was the panorama; a view extending in nearly +every direction for more than one hundred miles. It was with some +difficulty we wrenched our eyes from the more distant objects to +contemplate the nearer ones. Mont Dauphin was very conspicuous, but La +Bessée was not readily perceived. Besides these places not a habitation +could be seen; all was rock, snow, or ice; and, large as we knew were the +snow-fields of Dauphiné, we were surprised to find that they very far +surpassed our most ardent imagination. Nearly in a line between us and the +Viso, immediately to the south of Chateau Queyras, was a splendid group of +mountains of great height. More to the south an unknown peak seemed still +higher; while close to us we were astonished to discover that there was a +mountain which appeared even higher than that on which we stood. At least +this was my opinion; Macdonald thought that it was not so high, and +Reynaud that it was much about the same elevation as our own peak. + +This mountain was distant a couple of miles or so, and was separated from +us by a tremendous abyss, the bottom of which we could not see. On the +other side rose this mighty wall-sided peak, too steep for snow, black as +night, with sharp ridges and pointed summit. We were in complete ignorance +of its whereabouts, for none of us had been on the other side. We imagined +that La Bérarde was in the abyss at our feet, although it was in reality +beyond the other mountain.(28) + +We left the summit at last, and descended to the rocks and to our porter, +where I boiled some water, obtained by melting snow. After we had fed, and +smoked our cigars (lighted without difficulty from a common match), we +found it was ten minutes past three, and high time to be off. We dashed, +waded, and tumbled for twenty-five minutes through the snow, and then +began the long descent of the rocks. It was nearly four o'clock, and, as +it would be dark at eight, it was evident that there was no time to be +lost, and we pushed on to the utmost. Nothing remarkable occurred going +down. We kept rather closer to the glacier, and crossed at the same point +as in the morning. Getting _off_ it was like getting _on_ it--rather +awkward. Old Sémiond had got over--so had Reynaud; Macdonald came next, +but, as he made a long stretch to get on to a higher mass, he slipped, and +would have been in the bowels of a crevasse in a moment had he not been +tied. + +It was nearly dark by the time we had crossed, yet I still hoped that we +should be able to pass the night at our rock. Macdonald was not so +sanguine, and he was right; for at last we found ourselves quite at fault, +and wandered helplessly up and down for an hour, while Reynaud and the +porter indulged in a little mutual abuse. The dreary fact, that, as we +could not get down, we must stay where we were, was now quite apparent. + +We were at least 10,500 feet high, and if it commenced to rain or snow, as +the gathering clouds and rising wind seemed to threaten, we might be in a +sore plight. We were hungry, having eaten little since 3 A.M., and a +torrent we heard close at hand, but could not discover, aggravated our +thirst. Sémiond endeavoured to get some water from it. Although he +succeeded in doing so, he was wholly unable to return, and we had to +solace him by shouting at intervals through the night. + +A more detestable locality for a night out of doors it is difficult to +imagine. There was not shelter of any kind; it was perfectly exposed to +the chilly wind which began to rise, and it was too steep to promenade. +Loose rubbly stones covered the ground, and had to be removed before we +could sit with any comfort. This was an advantage, although we hardly +thought so at the time, as it gave us some employment, and, after an +hour's active exercise of that interesting kind, I obtained a small strip +about nine feet long, on which it was possible to walk. Reynaud was +furious at first, and soundly abused the porter, whose opinion as to the +route down had been followed rather than that of our friend, and at last +settled down to a deep dramatic despair, and wrung his hands with frantic +gesture, as he exclaimed, "Oh, malheur, malheur! Oh misérables!" + +Thunder commenced to growl, and lightning to play among the peaks above, +and the wind, which had brought the temperature down to nearly +freezing-point, began to chill us to the bones. We examined our resources. +They were six and a half cigars, two boxes of vesuvians, one-third of a +pint of brandy-and-water, and half-a-pint of spirits of wine: rather scant +fare for three fellows who had to get through seven hours before daylight. +The spirit-lamp was lighted, and the remaining spirits of wine, the brandy +and some snow, were heated by it. It was a strong liquor, and we wished +for more of it. When it was consumed, Macdonald endeavoured to dry his +socks by the lamp, and then the three lay down under my plaid to pretend +to sleep. Reynaud's woes were aggravated by toothache; Macdonald somehow +managed to close his eyes. + +The longest night must end, and ours did at last. We got down to our rock +in an hour and a quarter, and found the lad not a little surprised at our +absence. He said he had made a gigantic fire to light us down, and shouted +with all his might; we neither saw the fire nor heard his shouts. He said +we looked a ghastly crew, and no wonder; it was our fourth night out. + +We feasted at our cave, and performed some very necessary ablutions. The +persons of the natives are infested by certain agile creatures--rapid of +motion, numerous, and voracious. It is dangerous to approach too near, and +one has to study the wind, so as to get on their weather-side. In spite of +all such precautions my unfortunate companion and myself were being +rapidly devoured alive. We only expected a temporary lull of our tortures, +for the interiors of the inns are like the exteriors of the natives, +swarming with this species of animated creation. + +It is said that once, when these tormentors were filled with an unanimous +desire, an unsuspecting traveller was dragged bodily from his bed! This +needs confirmation. One word more, and I have done with this vile subject. +We returned from our ablutions, and found the Frenchmen engaged in +conversation. "Ah!" said old Sémiond, "as to fleas, I don't pretend to be +different to anyone else,--_I have them_." This time he certainly spoke the +truth. + +We got down to La Ville in good time, and luxuriated there for several +days; played many games of bowls with the natives, and were invariably +beaten by them. At last it was necessary to part, and I walked to Abries, +by way of Mont Dauphin and the gorge of the Guil towards Monte Viso, while +Macdonald went to Briançon. + + + +I have not attempted to conceal that the ascent of Mont Pelvoux is of a +rather monotonous character; the view from its summit can, however, be +confidently recommended. A glance at a map will show that, with the single +exception of the Viso, whose position is unrivalled, it is better situated +than any other mountain of considerable height for viewing the whole of +the Western Alps. + +Our discovery that the peak which is to be called the Pointe des Ecrins +was a separate and distinct mountain from Mont Pelvoux--and not its highest +point--gave us satisfaction, although it was also rather of the nature of a +disappointment. + +On our return to La Bessée we wrongly identified it with the peak which is +seen from thence to the left of the Pelvoux. The two mountains bear a +considerable resemblance to each other, so the mistake is not, perhaps, +unpardonable. Although the latter mountain is one that is considerably +higher than the Wetterhorn or Monte Viso, it has no name; we called it the +Pic Sans Nom. + +It has been observed by others that it is improbable the French surveyors +should have remained for several days upon the Pic de la Pyramide without +visiting the other and loftier summit. If they did, it is strange that +they did not leave some memorial of their visit. The natives who +accompanied them asserted that they did not pass from one to the other; we +therefore claimed to have made the ascent of the loftiest point for the +first time. The claim, however, cannot be sustained, on account of the +ascent of M. Puiseux. It is a matter of little moment; the excursion had +for us all the interest of a first ascent; and I look back upon this, my +first serious mountain scramble, with more satisfaction, and with as much +pleasure as upon any that is recorded in this volume. + + + +A few days later, I left Abries to seek a quiet bundle of hay at Le +Chalp--a village some miles nearer to the Viso. On approaching the place, +the odour of sanctity became distinctly perceptible; and on turning a +corner the cause was manifested--there was the priest of the place, +surrounded by some of his flock. I advanced humbly, hat in hand, but +almost before a word could be said, he broke out with, "Who are you?" +"What are you?" "What do you want?" I endeavoured to explain. "You are a +deserter; I know you are a deserter; go away, you can't stay here; go to +Le Monta, down there; I won't have you here," and he literally drove me +away. The explanation of his strange behaviour was, that Piedmontese +soldiers who were tired of the service had not unfrequently crossed the +Col de la Traversette into the valley, and trouble had arisen from +harbouring them. However, I did not know this at the time, and was not a +little indignant that I, who was marching to the attack, should be taken +for a deserter. + +So I walked away, and shortly afterwards, as it was getting dark, encamped +in a lovely hole--a cavity or kind of basin in the earth, with a stream on +one side, a rock to windward, and some broken fir branches close at hand. +Nothing could be more perfect: rock, hole, wood, and water. After making a +roaring fire, I nestled in my blanket bag (an ordinary blanket sewn up +double round the legs, with a piece of elastic riband round the open end), +and slept, but not for long. I was troubled with dreams of the +Inquisition; the tortures were being applied--priests were forcing fleas +down my nostrils and into my eyes--and with red-hot pincers were taking out +bits of flesh, and then cutting off my ears and tickling the soles of my +feet. This was too much; I yelled a great yell and awoke, to find myself +covered with innumerable crawling bodies. They were ants; I had camped by +an ant-hill, and, after making its inhabitants mad with the fire, had +coolly lain down in their midst. + + [Illustration: THE BLANKET BAG.] + +The night was fine, and as I settled down in more comfortable quarters, a +brilliant meteor sailed across full 60° of the cloudless sky, leaving a +trail of light behind which lasted for several seconds. It was the herald +of a splendid spectacle. Stars fell by hundreds; and not dimmed by +intervening vapours, they sparkled with greater brightness than Sirius in +our damp climate. + +The next morning, after walking up the valley to examine the Viso, I +returned to Abries, and engaged a man from a neighbouring hamlet, an +inveterate smoker, and thirsty in proportion, whose pipe never left his +mouth except to allow him to drink. We returned up the valley together, +and slept in a hut of a shepherd, whose yearly wage was almost as small as +that of the herdsman spoken of in Hyperion by Longfellow; and the next +morning, in his company, proceeded to the summit of the pass which I had +crossed in 1860. We were baffled in our attempt to get closer to the +mountain. A deep notch(29) with precipitous cliffs cut us off from it. The +snow-slope, too, which existed in the preceding year on the Piedmontese +side of the pass, was now wanting, and we were unable to descend the rocks +which lay beneath. A fortnight afterwards the mountain was ascended for +the first time by Messrs. Mathews and Jacomb, with the two Croz's of +Chamounix. Their attempt was made from the _southern_ side, and the +ascent, which was formerly considered a thing totally impossible, has +become one of the most common and favourite excursions of the district. + +The night of the 14th of August found me at St. Veran, a village made +famous by Neff, but in no other respect remarkable, saving that it is one +of the highest in Europe. The poor inn gave the impression of great +poverty. There was no meat, no bread, no butter or cheese; almost the only +things that could be obtained were eggs. The manners of the natives were +primitive. The woman of the inn, without the least sense of impropriety, +stayed in the room until I was fairly in bed, and her bill for supper, +bed, and breakfast, amounted to one and sevenpence. + + [Illustration: NATURAL PILLAR NEAR MOLINES.] + +In this neighbourhood, and indeed all round about the Viso, the chamois +still remain in considerable numbers. They said at St. Veran that six had +been seen from the village on the day I was there, and the innkeeper +declared that he had seen fifty together in the previous week! I myself +saw in this and in the previous season several small companies round about +the Viso. It is perhaps as favourable a district as any in the Alps for a +sportsman who wishes to hunt the chamois, as the ground over which they +wander is by no means of excessive difficulty. + +The next day I descended the valley to Ville Vieille, and passed near the +village of Molines, but on the opposite side of the valley, a remarkable +natural pillar, in form not unlike a champagne bottle, about sixty feet +high, which had been produced by the action of the weather, and, in all +probability, chiefly by rain. These natural pillars are among the most +remarkable examples of the potent effects produced by the long-continued +action of quiet-working forces. They are found in several other places in +the Alps, as well as elsewhere. + +The village of Ville Vieille boasts of an inn with the sign of the +Elephant; which, in the opinion of local amateurs, is a proof that +Hannibal passed through the gorge of the Guil. I remember the place, +because its bread, being only a month old, was unusually soft, and, for +the first time during ten days, it was possible to eat some, without first +of all chopping it into small pieces and soaking it in hot water, which +produced a slimy paste on the outside, but left a hard untouched kernel. + +The same day I crossed the Col Isoard to Briançon. It was the 15th of +August, and all the world was _en fête_; sounds of revelry proceeded from +the houses of Servières as I passed over the bridge upon which the pyrrhic +dance is annually performed,(30) and natives in all degrees of inebriation +staggered about the paths. It was late before the lights of the great +fortress came into sight; but unchallenged I passed through the gates, and +once more sought shelter under the roof of the Hotel de l'Ours. + + + + + + CHAPTER III. + + + MY FIRST SCRAMBLE ON THE MATTERHORN. + + + "What power must have been required to shatter and to sweep away + the missing parts of this pyramid; for we do not see it + surrounded by heaps of fragments; one only sees other + peaks--themselves rooted to the ground--whose sides, equally rent, + indicate an immense mass of débris, of which we do not see any + trace in the neighbourhood. Doubtless this is that débris which, + in the form of pebbles, boulders, and sand, covers our valleys + and our plains." + DE SAUSSURE. + + +Two summits amongst those in the Alps which yet remained virgin had +especially excited my admiration. One of these had been attacked +numberless times by the best mountaineers without success; the other, +surrounded by traditional inaccessibility, was almost untouched. These +mountains were the Weisshorn and the Matterhorn. + +After visiting the great tunnel of the Alps in 1861, I wandered for ten +days in the neighbouring valleys, intending, presently, to attempt the +ascent of these two peaks. Rumours were floating about that the former had +been conquered, and that the latter was shortly to be attacked, and they +were confirmed on arrival at Chatillon, at the entrance of the Val +Tournanche. My interest in the Weisshorn consequently abated, but it was +raised to the highest pitch on hearing that Professor Tyndall was at +Breil, and intending to try to crown his first victory by another and +still greater one. + +Up to this time my experience with guides had not been fortunate, and I +was inclined, improperly, to rate them at a low value. They represented to +me pointers out of paths, and large consumers of meat and drink, but +little more; and, with the recollection of Mont Pelvoux, I should have +greatly preferred the company of a couple of my countrymen to any number +of guides. In answer to inquiries at Chatillon, a series of men came +forward, whose faces expressed malice, pride, envy, hatred, and roguery of +every description, but who seemed to be destitute of all good qualities. +The arrival of two gentlemen with a guide, who they represented was the +embodiment of every virtue, and exactly the man for the Matterhorn, +rendered it unnecessary to engage any of the others. My new guide in +_physique_ was a combination of Chang and Anak; and although in acquiring +him I did not obtain exactly what was wanted, his late employers did +exactly what _they_ wanted, for I obtained the responsibility, without +knowledge, of paying his back fare, which must have been a relief at once +to their minds and to their purses. + +When walking up towards Breil,(31) we inquired for another man of all the +knowing ones, and they, with one voice, proclaimed that Jean-Antoine +Carrel, of the village of Val Tournanche, was the cock of his valley. We +sought, of course, for Carrel; and found him a well-made, resolute-looking +fellow, with a certain defiant air which was rather taking. Yes, he would +go. Twenty francs a day, whatever was the result, was his price. I +assented. But I must take his comrade. "Why so?" Oh, it was absolutely +impossible to get along without another man. As he said this, an evil +countenance came forth out of the darkness and proclaimed itself the +comrade. I demurred, the negotiations broke off, and we went up to Breil. +This place will be frequently mentioned in subsequent chapters, and was in +full view of the extraordinary peak, the ascent of which we were about to +attempt. + + + +It is unnecessary to enter into a minute description of the Matterhorn, +after all that has been written about that famous mountain. Those by whom +this book is likely to be read will know that that peak is nearly 15,000 +feet high, and that it rises abruptly, by a series of cliffs which may +properly be termed precipices, a clear 5000 feet above the glaciers which +surround its base. They will know too that it was the last great Alpine +peak which remained unscaled,--less on account of the difficulty of doing +so, than from the terror inspired by its invincible appearance. There +seemed to be a _cordon_ drawn around it, up to which one might go, but no +farther. Within that invisible line gins and effreets were supposed to +exist--the Wandering Jew and the spirits of the damned. The superstitious +natives in the surrounding valleys (many of whom still firmly believe it +to be not only the highest mountain in the Alps, but in the world) spoke +of a ruined city on its summit wherein the spirits dwelt; and if you +laughed, they gravely shook their heads; told you to look yourself to see +the castles and the walls, and warned one against a rash approach, lest +the infuriate demons from their impregnable heights might hurl down +vengeance for one's derision. Such were the traditions of the natives. +Stronger minds felt the influence of the wonderful form, and men who +ordinarily spoke or wrote like rational beings, when they came under its +power seemed to quit their senses, and ranted, and rhapsodised, losing for +a time all common forms of speech. Even the sober De Saussure was moved to +enthusiasm when he saw the mountain, and--inspired by the spectacle--he +anticipated the speculations of modern geologists, in the striking +sentences which are placed at the head of this chapter. + +The Matterhorn looks equally imposing from whatever side it is seen; it +never seems commonplace; and in this respect, and in regard to the +impression it makes upon spectators, it stands almost alone amongst +mountains. It has no rivals in the Alps, and but few in the world. + +The seven or eight thousand feet which compose the actual peak have +several well-marked ridges and numerous others.(32) The most continuous is +that which leads towards the north-east; the summit is at its higher, and +the little peak, called the Hörnli, is at its lower end. Another one that +is well-pronounced descends from the summit to the ridge called the Furgen +Grat. The slope of the mountain that is between these two ridges will be +referred to as the eastern face. A third, somewhat less continuous than +the others, descends in a south-westerly direction, and the portion of the +mountain that is seen from Breil is confined to that which is comprised +between this and the second ridge. This section is not composed, like that +between the first and second ridge, of one grand face; but it is broken up +into a series of huge precipices, spotted with snow-slopes, and streaked +with snow-gullies. The other half of the mountain, facing the Z'Mutt +glacier, is not capable of equally simple definition. There are +precipices, apparent, but not actual; there are precipices absolutely +perpendicular; there are precipices overhanging: there are glaciers, and +there are hanging glaciers; there are glaciers which tumble great _séracs_ +over greater cliffs, whose débris, subsequently consolidated, becomes +glacier again; there are ridges split by the frost, and washed by the rain +and melted snow into towers and spires: while, everywhere, there are +ceaseless sounds of action, telling that the causes are still in operation +which have been at work since the world began; reducing the mighty mass to +atoms, and effecting its degradation. + + [Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE NORTH-EAST.] + + [Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE THEODULE PASS. + (10,899 FEET)] + +Most tourists obtain their first view of the mountain either from the +valley of Zermatt or from that of Tournanche. From the former direction +the base of the mountain is seen at its narrowest, and its ridges and +faces seem to be of prodigious steepness. The tourist toils up the valley, +looking frequently for the great sight which is to reward his pains, +without seeing it (for the mountain is first perceived in that direction +about a mile to the north of Zermatt), when, all at once, as he turns a +rocky corner of the path, it comes into view; not, however, where it is +expected; the face has to be raised up to look at it; it seems overhead. +Although this is the impression, the fact is that the summit of the +Matterhorn from this point makes an angle with the eye of less than 16º, +while the Dom, from the same place, makes a larger angle, but is passed by +unobserved. So little can dependence be placed on unaided vision. The view +of the mountain from Breil, in the Val Tournanche, is not less striking +than that on the other side; but, usually, it makes less impression, +because the spectator grows accustomed to the sight while coming up or +down the valley. From this direction the mountain is seen to be broken up +into a series of pyramidal wedge-shaped masses; on the other side it is +remarkable for the large, unbroken extent of cliffs that it presents, and +for the simplicity of its outline. It was natural to suppose that a way +would more readily be found to the summit on a side thus broken up than in +any other direction. The eastern face, fronting Zermatt, seemed one +smooth, inaccessible cliff, from summit to base. The ghastly precipices +which face the Z'Mutt glacier forbade any attempt in _that_ direction. +There remained only the side of Val Tournanche; and it will be found that +nearly all the earliest attempts to ascend the mountain were made upon the +southern side. + +The first efforts to ascend the Matterhorn of which I have heard, were +made by the guides, or rather by the chasseurs, of Val Tournanche.(33) +These attempts were made in the years 1858-9, from the direction of Breil, +and the highest point that was attained was perhaps as far as the place +which is now called the "Chimney" (cheminée), a height of about 12,650 +feet. Those who were concerned in these expeditions were Jean-Antoine +Carrel, Jean Jacques Carrel, Victor Carrel, the Abbé Gorret, and Gabrielle +Maquignaz. I have been unable to obtain any further details respecting +them. + +The next attempt was a remarkable one; and of it, too, there is no +published account. It was made by the Messrs. Alfred, Charles, and +Sandbach Parker, of Liverpool, in July 1860. These gentlemen, _without +guides_, endeavoured to storm the citadel by attacking its eastern +face(34)--that to which reference was just now made as a smooth, +impracticable cliff. Mr. Sandbach Parker informs me that he and his +brothers went along the ridge between the Hörnli and the peak until they +came to the point where the ascending angle is considerably increased. +This place is marked on Dufour's map of Switzerland 3298 mètres (10,820 +feet). They were then obliged to bear a little to the left to get on to +the face of the mountain, and, afterwards, they turned to the right, and +ascended about 700 feet farther, keeping as nearly as was practicable to +the crest of the ridge, but, occasionally, bearing a little to the +left--that is, more on to the face of the mountain. The brothers started +from Zermatt, and did not sleep out. Clouds, a high wind, and want of +time, were the causes which prevented these daring gentlemen from going +farther. Thus, their highest point was under 12,000 feet. + +[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM NEAR THE SUMMIT OF THE THEODULE PASS.] + +The third attempt upon the mountain was made towards the end of August +1860, by Mr. Vaughan Hawkins,(35) from the side of the Val Tournanche. A +vivid account of his expedition has been published by him in _Vacation +Tourists_;(36) and it has been referred to several times by Professor +Tyndall in the numerous papers he has contributed to Alpine literature. I +will dismiss it, therefore, as briefly as possible. + +Mr. Hawkins had inspected the mountain in 1859, with the guide J. J. +Bennen, and he had formed the opinion that the south-west ridge(37) would +lead to the summit. He engaged J. Jacques Carrel, who was concerned in the +first attempts, and, accompanied by Bennen (and by Professor Tyndall, whom +he had invited to take part in the expedition), he started for the gap +between the little and the great peak.(38) + + [Illustration: J. J. BENNEN (1862).] + +Bennen was a guide who was beginning to be talked about. During the chief +part of his brief career he was in the service of Wellig, the landlord of +the inn on the Æggischhorn, and was hired out by him to tourists. Although +his experience was limited, he had acquired a good reputation; and his +book of certificates, which is lying before me,(39) shows that he was +highly esteemed by his employers. A good-looking man, with courteous, +gentlemanly manners, skilful and bold, he might, by this time, have taken +a front place amongst guides if he had only been endowed with more +prudence. He perished miserably, in the spring of 1864, not far from his +home, on a mountain called the Haut de Cry, in the Valais.(40) + +Mr. Hawkins' party, led by Bennen, climbed the rocks abutting against the +Couloir du Lion, on its south side, and attained the Col du Lion, although +not without difficulty. They then followed the south-west ridge, passed +the place at which the earliest explorers had turned back (the +Chimney),(41) and ascended about 300 feet more. Mr. Hawkins and J. J. +Carrel then stopped, but Bennen and Professor Tyndall mounted a few feet +higher. They retreated, however, in less than half-an-hour, finding that +there was too little time; and, descending to the Col by the same route as +they had followed on the ascent, proceeded thence to Breil, down the +Couloir instead of by the rocks. The point at which Mr. Hawkins stopped is +easily identified from his description. Its height is 12,992 feet above +the sea. I think that Bennen and Tyndall could not have ascended more than +50 or 60 feet beyond this in the few minutes they were absent from the +others, as they were upon one of the most difficult parts of the mountain. +This party therefore accomplished an advance of about 350 or 400 feet. + +Mr. Hawkins did not, as far as I know, make another attempt; and the next +was made by the Messrs. Parker, in July 1861. They again started from +Zermatt; followed the route they had struck out on the previous year, and +got a little higher than before; but they were defeated by want of time, +shortly afterwards left Zermatt on account of bad weather, and did not +again renew their attempts. Mr. Parker says--"In neither case did we go as +high as we could. At the point where we turned we saw our way for a few +hundred feet farther; but, beyond that, the difficulties seemed to +increase." I am informed that both attempts should be considered as +excursions undertaken with the view of ascertaining whether there was any +encouragement to make a more deliberate attack on the north-east side. + + + +My guide and I arrived at Breil on the 28th of August 1861, and we found +that Professor Tyndall _had_ been there a day or two before, but had done +nothing. I had seen the mountain from nearly every direction, and it +seemed, even to a novice like myself, far too much for a single day. I +intended to sleep out upon it, as high as possible, and to attempt to +reach the summit on the following day. We endeavoured to induce another +man to accompany us, but without success. Matthias zum Taugwald and other +well-known guides were there at the time, but they declined to go on any +account. A sturdy old fellow--Peter Taugwalder by name--said he would go! +His price? "Two hundred francs." "What, whether we ascend or not?" +"Yes--nothing less." The end of the matter was, that all the men who were +more or less capable showed a strong disinclination, or positively +refused, to go (their disinclination being very much in proportion to +their capacity), or else asked a prohibitive price. This, it may be said +once for all, was the reason why so many futile attempts were made upon +the Matterhorn. One first-rate guide after another was brought up to the +mountain, and patted on the back, but all declined the business. The men +who went had no heart in the matter, and took the first opportunity to +turn back.(42) For they were, with the exception of one man, to whom +reference will be made presently, universally impressed with the belief +that the summit was entirely inaccessible. + +We resolved to go alone, and anticipating a cold bivouac, begged the loan +of a couple of blankets from the innkeeper. He refused them; giving the +curious reason, that we had bought a bottle of brandy at Val Tournanche, +and had not bought any from him! No brandy, no blankets, appeared to be +his rule. We did not require them that night, as it was passed in the +highest cow-shed in the valley, which is about an hour nearer to the +mountain than is the hotel. The cowherds, worthy fellows, seldom troubled +by tourists, hailed our company with delight, and did their best to make +us comfortable; brought out their little stores of simple food, and, as we +sat with them round the great copper pot which hung over the fire, bade us +in husky voice, but with honest intent, to beware of the perils of the +haunted cliffs. When night was coming on, we saw, stealing up the +hill-side, the forms of Jean-Antoine Carrel and the comrade. "Oh ho!" I +said, "you have repented?" "Not at all; you deceive yourself." "Why then +have you come here?" "Because we ourselves are going on the mountain +to-morrow." "Oh, then it is _not_ necessary to have more than three." "Not +for _us_." I admired their pluck, and had a strong inclination to engage +the pair; but, finally, decided against it. The comrade turned out to be +the J. J. Carrel who had been with Mr. Hawkins, and was nearly related to +the other man. + + [Illustration: JEAN-ANTOINE CARREL (1869).] + +Both were bold mountaineers; but Jean-Antoine was incomparably the better +man of the two, and he is the finest rock-climber I have ever seen. He was +the only man who persistently refused to accept defeat, and who continued +to believe, in spite of all discouragements, that the great mountain was +not inaccessible, and that it could be ascended from the side of his +native valley. + +The night wore away without any excitement, except from the fleas, a party +of whom executed a spirited fandango on my cheek, to the sound of music +produced on the drum of my ear, by one of their fellows beating with a +wisp of hay. The two Carrels crept noiselessly out before daybreak, and +went off. We did not start until nearly seven o'clock, and followed them +leisurely, leaving all our properties in the cow-shed; sauntered over the +gentian-studded slopes which intervene between the shed and the Glacier du +Lion, left cows and their pastures behind, traversed the stony wastes, and +arrived at the ice. Old, hard beds of snow lay on its right bank (our left +hand), and we mounted over them on to the lower portion of the glacier +with ease. But, as we ascended, crevasses became numerous, and we were at +last brought to a halt by some which were of very large dimensions; and, +as our cutting powers were limited, we sought an easier route, and turned, +naturally, to the lower rocks of the Tête du Lion, which overlook the +glacier on its west. Some good scrambling took us in a short time on to +the crest of the ridge which descends towards the south; and thence, up to +the level of the Col du Lion, there was a long natural staircase, on which +it was seldom necessary to use the hands. We dubbed the place "The Great +Staircase." Then the cliffs of the Tête du Lion, which rise above the +Couloir, had to be skirted. This part varies considerably in different +seasons, and in 1861 we found it difficult; for the fine steady weather of +that year had reduced the snow-beds abutting against it to a lower level +than usual, and the rocks which were left exposed at the junction of the +snow with the cliffs, had few ledges or cracks to which we could hold. But +by half-past ten o'clock we stood on the Col, and looked down upon the +magnificent basin out of which the Z'Mutt glacier flows. We decided to +pass the night upon the Col, for we were charmed with the capabilities of +the place, although it was one where liberties could not be taken. On one +side a sheer wall overhung the Tiefenmatten glacier. On the other, steep, +glassy slopes of hard snow descended to the Glacier du Lion, furrowed by +water and by falling stones. On the north there was the great peak of the +Matterhorn,(43) and on the south the cliffs of the Tête du Lion. Throw a +bottle down to the Tiefenmatten--no sound returns for more than a dozen +seconds. + + * * * "how fearful + And dizzy 'tis, to cast one's eyes so low!" + + [Illustration: THE COL DU LION: LOOKING TOWARDS THE TÊTE DU LION.] + +But no harm could come from that side. Neither could it from the other. +Nor was it likely that it would from the Tête du Lion, for some jutting +ledges conveniently overhung our proposed resting-place. We waited for a +while, basked in the sunshine, and watched or listened to the Carrels, who +were sometimes seen or heard, high above us, upon the ridge leading +towards the summit; and, leaving at mid-day, we descended to the cow-shed, +packed up the tent and other properties, and returned to the Col, although +heavily laden, before six o'clock. This tent was constructed on a pattern +suggested by Mr. Francis Galton, and it was not a success. It looked very +pretty when set up in London, but it proved thoroughly useless in the +Alps. It was made of light canvas, and opened like a book; had one end +closed permanently and the other with flaps; it was supported by two +alpenstocks, and had the canvas sides prolonged so as to turn in +underneath. Numerous cords were sewn to the lower edges, to which stones +were to be attached; but the main fastenings were by a cord which passed +underneath the ridge and through iron rings screwed into the tops of the +alpenstocks, and were secured by pegs. The wind, which playfully careered +about the surrounding cliffs, was driven through our gap with the force of +a blow-pipe; the flaps of the tent would not keep down, the pegs would not +stay in, and it exhibited so marked a desire to go to the top of the Dent +Blanche, that we thought it prudent to take it down and to sit upon it. +When night came on we wrapped ourselves in it, and made our camp as +comfortable as the circumstances would allow. The silence was impressive. +No living thing was near our solitary bivouac; the Carrels had turned back +and were out of hearing; the stones had ceased to fall, and the trickling +water to murmur-- + + "The music of whose liquid lip + Had been to us companionship, + And, in our lonely life, had grown + To have an almost human tone."(44) + +It was bitterly cold. Water froze hard in a bottle under my head. Not +surprising, as we were actually on snow, and in a position where the +slightest wind was at once felt. For a time we dozed, but about midnight +there came from high aloft a tremendous explosion, followed by a second of +dead quiet. A great mass of rock had split off, and was descending towards +us. My guide started up, wrung his hands, and exclaimed, "O my God, we are +lost!" We heard it coming, mass after mass pouring over the precipices, +bounding and rebounding from cliff to cliff, and the great rocks in +advance smiting one another. They seemed to be close, although they were +probably distant, but some small fragments, which dropped upon us at the +same time from the ledges just above, added to the alarm, and my +demoralised companion passed the remainder of the night in a state of +shudder, ejaculating "terrible," and other adjectives. + +We put ourselves in motion at daybreak, and commenced the ascent of the +south-west ridge. There was no more sauntering with hands in the pockets; +each step had to be earned by downright climbing. But it was the most +pleasant kind of climbing. The rocks were fast and unencumbered with +débris; the cracks were good, although not numerous, and there was nothing +to fear except from one's-self. So we thought, at least, and shouted to +awake echoes from the cliffs. Ah! there is no response. Not yet; wait a +while, everything here is upon a superlative scale; count a dozen, and +then the echoes will return from the walls of the Dent d'Hérens, miles +away, in waves of pure and undefiled sound; soft, musical, and sweet. Halt +a moment to regard the view! We overlook the Tête du Lion, and nothing +except the Dent d'Hérens, whose summit is still a thousand feet above us, +stands in the way. The ranges of the Graian Alps--an ocean of mountains--are +seen, at a glance, governed by their three great peaks, the Grivola, Grand +Paradis, and Tour de St. Pierre. How soft, and yet how sharp, they look in +the early morning! The mid-day mists have not begun to rise; nothing is +obscured; even the pointed Viso, all but a hundred miles away, is +perfectly defined. + +Turn to the east, and watch the sun's slanting rays coming across the +Monte Rosa snow-fields. Look at the shadowed parts, and see how even +they--radiant with reflected light--are more brilliant than man knows how to +depict. See, how--even there--the gentle undulations give shadows within +shadows; and how--yet again--where falling stones or ice have left a track, +there are shadows upon shadows, each with a light and a dark side, with +infinite gradations of matchless tenderness. Then, note the sunlight as it +steals noiselessly along, and reveals countless unsuspected forms;--the +delicate ripple-lines which mark the concealed crevasse, and the waves of +drifted snow; producing each minute more lights and fresh shadows; +sparkling on the edges and glittering on the ends of the icicles; shining +on the heights and illuminating the depths, until all is aglow, and the +dazzled eye returns for relief to the sombre crags. + +Hardly an hour had passed since we left the Col before we arrived at the +"Chimney." It proved to be the counterpart of the place to which reference +has been made at p. 3; a smooth, straight slab of rock was fixed, at a +considerable angle, between two others equally smooth.(45) My companion +essayed to go up, and, after crumpling his long body into many ridiculous +positions, he said that he would not, for he could not, do it. With some +little trouble I got up it unassisted, and then my guide tied himself on +to the end of our rope, and I endeavoured to pull him up. But he was so +awkward that he did little for himself, and so heavy that he proved too +much for me, and after several attempts he untied himself, and quietly +observed that he should go down. I told him he was a coward, and _he_ +mentioned his opinion of me. I requested him to go to Breil, and to say +that he had left his "monsieur" on the mountain, and he turned to go; +whereupon I had to eat humble pie and ask him to come back; for, although +it was not very difficult to go up, and not at all dangerous with a man +standing below, it was quite another thing to come down, as the lower edge +overhung in a provoking manner. + +The day was perfect; the sun was pouring down grateful warmth; the wind +had fallen; the way seemed clear, no insuperable obstacle was in sight; +yet what could one do alone? I stood on the top, chafing under this +unexpected contretemps, and remained for some time irresolute; but as it +became apparent that the Chimney was swept more frequently than was +necessary (it was a natural channel for falling stones), I turned at last, +descended with the assistance of my companion, and returned with him to +Breil, where we arrived about mid-day. + +The Carrels did not show themselves, but we were told that they had not +got to any great height,(46) and that the "comrade," who for convenience +had taken off his shoes and tied them round his waist, had managed to let +one of them slip, and had come down with a piece of cord fastened round +his naked foot. Notwithstanding this, they had boldly glissaded down the +Couloir du Lion, J. J. Carrel having his shoeless foot tied up in a pocket +handkerchief. + +The Matterhorn was not assailed again in 1861. I left Breil with the +conviction that it was little use for a single tourist to organise an +attack upon it, so great was its influence on the morals of the guides, +and persuaded that it was desirable at least two should go, to back each +other when required: and departed with my guide(47) over the Col Théodule, +longing, more than before, to make the ascent, and determined to return, +if possible with a companion, to lay siege to the mountain until one or +the other was vanquished. + + + + + + CHAPTER IV. + + + RENEWED ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN. + + + "'Tis a lesson you should heed, + Try, try, try again. + If at first you don't succeed, + Try, try, try again. + Then your courage should appear, + For if you will persevere + You will conquer, never fear. + Try, try, try again." + HICKSON. + + +The year 1862 was still young, and the Matterhorn, clad in its wintry +garb, bore but little resemblance to the Matterhorn of the summer, when a +new force came to do battle with the mountain, from another direction. Mr. +T. S. Kennedy of Leeds conceived the extraordinary idea that the peak +might prove less impracticable in January than in June, and arrived at +Zermatt in the former month to put his conception to the test. With stout +Peter Perrn and sturdy Peter Taugwalder he slept in the little chapel at +the Schwarzensee, and on the next morning, like the Messrs. Parker, +followed the ridge between the peak called Hörnli and the great mountain. +But they found that snow in winter obeyed the ordinary laws, and that the +wind and frost were not less unkind than in summer. "The wind whirled up +the snow and spiculæ of ice into our faces like needles, and flat pieces +of ice a foot in diameter, carried up from the glacier below, went flying +past. Still no one seemed to like to be the first to give in, till a gust +fiercer than usual forced us to shelter for a time behind a rock. +Immediately it was tacitly understood that our expedition must now end; +but we determined to leave some memento of our visit, and, after +descending a considerable distance, we found a suitable place with loose +stones of which to build a cairn. In half-an-hour a tower six feet high +was erected; a bottle, with the date, was placed inside, and we retreated +as rapidly as possible."(48) This cairn was placed at the spot marked upon +Dufour's Map of Switzerland 10,820 feet (3298 mètres), and the highest +point attained by Mr. Kennedy was not, I imagine, more than two or three +hundred feet above it. + +Shortly after this Professor Tyndall gave, in his little tract +_Mountaineering in 1861_, an account of the reason why he had left Breil, +in August 1861, without doing anything.(49) It seems that he sent his +guide Bennen to reconnoitre, and that the latter made the following report +to his employer:--"Herr, I have examined the mountain carefully, and find +it more difficult and dangerous than I had imagined. There is no place +upon it where we could well pass the night. We might do so on yonder Col +upon the snow, but there we should be almost frozen to death, and totally +unfit for the work of the next day. On the rocks there is no ledge or +cranny which could give us proper harbourage; and starting from Breuil it +is certainly impossible to reach the summit in a single day." "I was +entirely taken aback," says Tyndall, "by this report. I felt like a man +whose grip had given way, and who was dropping through the air.... Bennen +was evidently dead against any attempt upon the mountain. 'We can, at all +events, reach the lower of the two summits,' I remarked. 'Even that is +difficult,' he replied; 'but when you have reached it, what then? The peak +has neither name nor fame.'"(50) + +I was more surprised than discouraged by this report by Bennen. One half +of his assertions I knew to be wrong. The Col to which he referred was the +Col du Lion, upon which we had passed a night less than a week after he +had spoken so authoritatively; and I had seen a place not far below the +"Chimney,"--a place about 500 feet above the Col--where it seemed possible +to construct a sleeping-place. Bennen's opinions seem to have undergone a +complete change. In 1860 he is described as having been enthusiastic to +make an attempt, and in 1861 he was dead against one. Nothing dismayed by +this, my friend Mr. Reginald Macdonald, our companion on the Pelvoux--to +whom so much of our success had been due, agreed to join me in a renewed +assault from the south; and, although we failed to secure Melchior +Anderegg and some other notable guides, we obtained two men of repute, +namely, Johann zum Taugwald and Johann Kronig, of Zermatt. We met at that +place early in July, but stormy weather prevented us even from passing to +the other side of the chain for some time. We crossed the Col Théodule on +the 5th, in thoroughly unsettled weather--rain was falling in the valleys, +and snow upon the mountains. Shortly before we gained the summit we were +made extremely uncomfortable by hearing mysterious, rushing sounds, which +sometimes seemed as if a sudden gust of wind was sweeping along the snow, +and, at others, almost like the swishing of a long whip: yet the snow +exhibited no signs of motion, and the air was perfectly calm. The dense, +black storm-clouds made us momentarily expect that our bodies might be +used as lightning-conductors, and we were well satisfied to get under +shelter of the inn at Breil, without having submitted to any such +experience.(51) + +We had need of a porter, and, by the advice of our landlord, descended to +the chalets of Breil in search of one Luc Meynet. We found his house a +mean abode, encumbered with cheese-making apparatus, and tenanted only by +some bright-eyed children; but as they said that uncle Luc would soon be +home, we waited at the door of the little chalet and watched for him. At +last a speck was seen coming round the corner of the patch of firs below +Breil, and then the children clapped their hands, dropped their toys, and +ran eagerly forward to meet him. We saw an ungainly, wobbling figure stoop +down and catch up the little ones, kiss them on each cheek, and put them +into the empty panniers on each side of the mule, and then heard it come +on carolling, as if this was not a world of woe: and yet the face of +little Luc Meynet, the hunchback of Breil, bore traces of trouble and +sorrow, and there was more than a touch of sadness in his voice when he +said that he must look after his brother's children. All his difficulties +were, however, at length overcome, and he agreed to join us to carry the +tent. + + + +In the past winter I had turned my attention to tents, and that which we +had brought with us was the result of experiments to devise one which +should be sufficiently portable to be taken over the most difficult +ground, and which should combine lightness with stability. Its base was +just under six feet square, and a cross-section perpendicular to its +length was an equilateral triangle, the sides of which were six feet long. +It was intended to accommodate four persons. It was supported by four +ash-poles, six feet and a half long, and one inch and a quarter thick, +tapering to the top to an inch and an eighth; these were shod with iron +points. The order of proceeding in the construction of the tent was as +follows:--Holes were drilled through the poles about five inches from their +tops, for the insertion of two wrought-iron bolts, three inches long and +one quarter of an inch thick. The bolts were then inserted, and the two +pairs of poles were set out (and fixed up by cords), to the proper +dimensions. The roof was then put on. This was made of the rough, +unbleached calico called forfar, which can be obtained in six-feet widths, +and it was continued round for about two feet, on each side, on to the +floor. The width of the material was the length of the tent, and seams +were thus avoided in the roof. The forfar was sewn round each pole; +particular care being taken to avoid wrinkles, and to get the whole +perfectly taut. The flooring was next put in and sewn down to the forfar. +This was of the ordinary plaid mackintosh, about nine feet square; the +surplus three feet being continued up the sides to prevent draughts. It is +as well to have two feet of this surplus on one side, and only one foot on +the other; the latter amount being sufficient for the side occupied by the +feet. One end was then permanently closed by a triangular piece of forfar, +which was sewn down to that which was already fixed. The other end was +left open, and had two triangular flaps that overlapped each other, and +which were fastened up when we were inside by pieces of tape. Lastly, the +forfar was nailed down to the poles to prevent the tent getting out of +shape. The cord which was used for climbing served for the tent; it was +passed over the crossed poles and underneath the ridge of the roof, and +the two ends--one fore and the other aft--were easily secured to pieces of +rock. Such a tent costs about four guineas, and its weight is about +twenty-three pounds; or, if the lightest kind of forfar is used, it need +not exceed twenty pounds. When it was fastened up for transport it +presented the appearance shown in the portrait of Meynet at p. 234, and it +could be unrolled and set up by two persons in three minutes; a point of +no small importance during extreme weather. + + [Illustration: Diagram to show manner of fastening tent-poles] + + [Illustration: THE AUTHOR'S MOUNTAIN TENT.] + +This tent is intended, and adapted, for camping out at high altitudes, or +in cold climates. It is not pretended that it is perfectly waterproof, but +it can be made so by the addition of mackintosh to the roof; and this +increases the weight by only two and a half pounds. It is then fit for +general use.(52) It may be observed that the pattern of this tent is +identical in all essential points with that arrived at (after great +experience) by Sir Leopold M'Clintock for Arctic work, and frequent use by +many persons, under varied conditions, has shown that the pattern is both +practical and substantial. + +Sunday, the 6th of July, was showery, and snow fell on the Matterhorn, but +we started on the following morning with our three men, and pursued my +route of the previous year. I was requested to direct the way, as none +save myself had been on the mountain before. I did not distinguish myself +upon this occasion, and led my companions nearly to the top of the small +peak before the mistake was discovered. The party becoming rebellious, a +little exploration was made towards our right, and we found that we were +upon the top of the cliff overlooking the Col du Lion. The upper part of +the small peak is of a very different character to the lower part; the +rocks are not so firm, and they are usually covered, or intermixed, with +snow, and glazed with ice: the angle too is more severe. While descending +a small snow-slope, to get on to the right track, Kronig slipped on a +streak of ice, and went down at a fearful pace. Fortunately he kept on his +legs, and, by a great effort, succeeded in stopping just before he arrived +at some rocks that jutted through the snow, which would infallibly have +knocked him over. When we rejoined him a few minutes later, we found that +he was incapable of standing, much less of moving, with a face corpse-like +in hue, and trembling violently. He remained in this condition for more +than an hour, and the day was consequently far advanced before we arrived +at our camping-place on the Col. Profiting by the experience of last year, +we did not pitch the tent actually on the snow, but collected a quantity +of débris from the neighbouring ledges, and after constructing a rough +platform of the larger pieces, levelled the whole with the dirt and mud. + +Meynet had proved invaluable as a tent-bearer; for--although his legs were +more picturesque than symmetrical, and although he seemed to be built on +principle with no two parts alike--his very deformities proved of service; +and we quickly found he had spirit of no common order, and that few +peasants are more agreeable companions, or better climbers, than little +Luc Meynet, the hunchback of Breil. He now showed himself not less +serviceable as a scavenger, and humbly asked for gristly pieces of meat, +rejected by the others, or for suspicious eggs; and seemed to consider it +a peculiar favour, if not a treat, to be permitted to drink the +coffee-grounds. With the greatest contentment he took the worst place at +the door of the tent, and did all the dirty work which was put upon him by +the guides, as gratefully as a dog--who has been well beaten--will receive a +stroke. + +A strong wind sprang up from the east during the night, and in the morning +it was blowing almost a hurricane. The tent behaved nobly, and we remained +under its shelter for several hours after the sun had risen, uncertain +what it was best to do. A lull tempted us to move, but we had scarcely +ascended a hundred feet before the storm burst upon us with increased +fury. Advance or return was alike impossible; the ridge was denuded of its +débris; and we clutched our hardest when we saw stones as big as a man's +fist blown away horizontally into space. We dared not attempt to stand +upright, and remained stationary, on all fours, glued, as it were, to the +rocks. It was intensely cold, for the blast had swept along the main chain +of the Pennine Alps, and across the great snow-fields around Monte Rosa. +Our warmth and courage rapidly evaporated, and at the next lull we +retreated to the tent; having to halt several times even in that short +distance. Taugwald and Kronig then declared that they had had enough, and +refused to have anything more to do with the mountain. Meynet also +informed us that he would be required down below for important +cheese-making operations on the following day. It was therefore needful to +return to Breil, and we arrived there at 2.30 P.M., extremely chagrined at +our complete defeat. + +Jean-Antoine Carrel, attracted by rumours, had come up to the inn during +our absence, and after some negotiations agreed to accompany us, with one +of his friends named Pession, on the first fine day. We thought ourselves +fortunate; for Carrel clearly considered the mountain a kind of +_preserve_, and regarded our late attempt as an act of _poaching_. The +wind blew itself out during the night, and we started again, with these +two men and a porter, at 8 A.M. on the 9th, with unexceptionable weather. +Carrel pleased us by suggesting that we should camp even higher than +before; and we accordingly proceeded, without resting at the Col, until we +overtopped the Tête du Lion. Near the foot of the "Chimney," a little +below the crest of the ridge, and on its eastern side, we found a +protected place; and by building up from ledge to ledge (under the +direction of our leader, who was a mason by profession), we at length +constructed a platform of sufficient size and of considerable solidity. +Its height was about 12,550 feet above the sea; and it exists, I believe, +at the present time.(53) We then pushed on, as the day was very fine, and, +after a short hour's scramble, got to the foot of the Great Tower upon the +ridge (that is to say, to Mr. Hawkins' farthest point), and afterwards +returned to our bivouac. We turned out again at 4 A.M., and at 5.15 +started upwards once more, with fine weather and the thermometer at 28°. +Carrel scrambled up the Chimney, and Macdonald and I after him. Pession's +turn came, but when he arrived at the top he looked very ill, declared +himself to be thoroughly incapable, and said that he must go back. We +waited some time, but he did not get better, neither could we learn the +nature of his illness. Carrel flatly refused to go on with us alone. We +were helpless. Macdonald, ever the coolest of the cool, suggested that we +should try what we could do without them; but our better judgment +prevailed, and, finally, we returned together to Breil. On the next day my +friend started for London. + +Three times I had essayed the ascent of this mountain, and on each +occasion had failed ignominiously. I had not advanced a yard beyond my +predecessors. Up to the height of nearly 13,000 feet there were no +extraordinary difficulties; the way so far might even become "a matter of +amusement." Only 1800 feet remained; but they were as yet untrodden, and +might present the most formidable obstacles. No man could expect to climb +them by himself. A morsel of rock only seven feet high might at any time +defeat him, if it were perpendicular. Such a place might be possible to +two, or a bagatelle to three men. It was evident that a party should +consist of three men at least. But where could the other two men be +obtained? Carrel was the only man who exhibited any enthusiasm in the +matter; and he, in 1861, had absolutely refused to go unless the party +consisted of at least _four_ persons. Want of men made the difficulty, not +the mountain. + +The weather became bad again, so I went to Zermatt on the chance of +picking up a man, and remained there during a week of storms.(54) Not one +of the better men, however, could be induced to come, and I returned to +Breil on the 17th, hoping to combine the skill of Carrel with the +willingness of Meynet on a new attempt, by the same route as before; for +the Hörnli ridge, which I had examined in the meantime, seemed to be +entirely impracticable. Both men were inclined to go, but their ordinary +occupations prevented them from starting at once.(55) + +My tent had been left rolled up at the second platform, and whilst waiting +for the men it occurred to me that it might have been blown away during +the late stormy weather; so I started off on the 18th to see if this were +so or not. The way was by this time familiar, and I mounted rapidly, +astonishing the friendly herdsmen--who nodded recognition as I flitted past +them and the cows--for I was alone, because no man was available. But more +deliberation was necessary when the pastures were passed, and climbing +began, for it was needful to mark each step, in case of mist, or surprise +by night. It is one of the few things which can be said in favour of +mountaineering alone (a practice which has little besides to commend it), +that it awakens a man's faculties, and makes him observe. When one has no +arms to help, and no head to guide him except his own, he must needs take +note even of small things, for he cannot afford to throw away a chance; +and so it came to pass, upon my solitary scramble, when above the +snow-line, and beyond the ordinary limits of flowering plants, when +peering about, noting angles and landmarks, that my eyes fell upon the +tiny straggling plants--oftentimes a single flower on a single +stalk--pioneers of vegetation, atoms of life in a world of desolation, +which had found their way up--who can tell how?--from far below, and were +obtaining bare sustenance from the scanty soil in protected nooks; and it +gave a new interest to the well-known rocks to see what a gallant fight +the survivors made (for many must have perished in the attempt) to ascend +the great mountain. The Gentian, as one might have expected, was there; +but it was run close by Saxifrages, and by _Linaria alpina_, and was +beaten by _Thlaspi rotundifolium_, which latter plant was the highest I +was able to secure, although it too was overtopped by a little white +flower which I knew not, and was unable to reach.(56) + +The tent was safe, although snowed up; and I turned to contemplate the +view, which, when seen alone and undisturbed, had all the strength and +charm of complete novelty. The highest peaks of the Pennine chain were in +front--the Breithorn (13,685 feet), the Lyskamm (14,889), and Monte Rosa +(15,217); then, turning to the right, the entire block of mountains which +separated the Val Tournanche from the Val d'Ayas was seen at a glance, +with its dominating summit the Grand Tournalin (11,155). Behind were the +ranges dividing the Val d'Ayas from the Valley of Gressoney, backed by +higher summits. More still to the right, the eye wandered down the entire +length of the Val Tournanche, and then rested upon the Graian Alps with +their innumerable peaks, and upon the isolated pyramid of Monte Viso +(12,643) in the extreme distance. Next, still turning to the right, came +the mountains intervening between the Val Tournanche and the Val +Barthélemy: Mont Rouss (a round-topped snowy summit, which seems so +important from Breil, but which is in reality only a buttress of the +higher mountain, the Château des Dames), had long ago sunk, and the eye +passed over it, scarcely heeding its existence, to the Becca Salle (or, as +it is sometimes called, Bec de Sale),--a miniature Matterhorn--and to other, +and more important heights. Then the grand mass of the Dent d'Hérens +(13,714) stopped the way; a noble mountain, encrusted on its northern +slopes with enormous hanging glaciers, which broke away at mid-day in +immense slices, and thundered down on to the Tiefenmatten glacier; and +lastly, most splendid of all, came the Dent Blanche (14,318), soaring +above the basin of the great Z'Muttgletscher. Such a view is hardly to be +excelled in the Alps, and _this_ view is very rarely seen, as I saw it, +perfectly unclouded.(57) + +Time sped away unregarded, and the little birds which had built their +nests on the neighbouring cliffs had begun to chirp their evening hymn +before I thought of returning. Half mechanically I turned to the tent, +unrolled it, and set it up; it contained food enough for several days, and +I resolved to stay over the night. I had started from Breil without +provisions, or telling Favre--the innkeeper, who was accustomed to my +erratic ways--where I was going. I returned to the view. The sun was +setting, and its rosy rays, blending with the snowy blue, had thrown a +pale, pure violet far as the eye could see; the valleys were drowned in +purple gloom, whilst the summits shone with unnatural brightness: and as I +sat in the door of the tent, and watched the twilight change to darkness, +the earth seemed to become less earthy and almost sublime; the world +seemed dead, and I, its sole inhabitant. By and by, the moon as it rose +brought the hills again into sight, and by a judicious repression of +detail rendered the view yet more magnificent. Something in the south hung +like a great glow-worm in the air; it was too large for a star, and too +steady for a meteor; and it was long before I could realise the incredible +fact that it was the moonlight glittering on the great snow-slope on the +north side of Monte Viso, at a distance, as the crow flies, of 98 miles. +Shivering, at last I entered the tent and made my coffee. The night was +passed comfortably, and the next morning, tempted by the brilliancy of the +weather, I proceeded yet higher in search of another place for a platform. + + [Illustration: Climbing claw] + +Solitary scrambling over a pretty wide area had shown me that a single +individual is subjected to many difficulties which do not trouble a party +of two or three men, and that the disadvantages of being alone are more +felt while descending than during the ascent. In order to neutralise these +inconveniences, I devised two little appliances, which were now brought +into use for the first time. One was a claw--a kind of grapnel--about five +inches long, made of shear steel, one-fifth of an inch thick. This was of +use in difficult places, where there was no hold within arm's length, but +where there were cracks or ledges some distance higher. The claw could be +stuck on the end of the alpenstock and dropped into such places, or, on +extreme occasions, flung up until it attached itself to something. The +edges that laid hold of the rocks were serrated, which tended to make them +catch more readily: the other end had a ring to which a rope was fastened. +It must not be understood that this was employed for hauling one's-self up +for any great distance, but that it was used in ascending, at the most, +for only a few yards at a time. In descending, however, it could be +prudently used for a greater distance at a time, as the claws could be +planted firmly; but it was necessary to keep the rope taut, and the pull +constantly in the direction of the length of the implement, otherwise it +had a tendency to slip away. The second device was merely a modification +of a dodge practised by all climbers. It is frequently necessary for a +single man (or for the last man of a party) during a descent, to make a +loop in the end of his rope, to pass it over some rocks, and to come down +holding the free end. The loop is then jerked off, and the process may be +repeated. But as it sometimes happens that there are no rocks at hand +which will allow a loose loop to be used, a slip-knot has to be resorted +to, and the rope is drawn in tightly. Consequently it will occur that it +is not possible to jerk the loop off, and the rope has to be cut and left +behind. To prevent this, I had a wrought-iron ring (two and a quarter +inches in diameter and three-eighths of an inch thick) attached to one end +of my rope. A loop could be made in a moment by passing the other end of +the rope through this ring, which of course slipped up and held tightly as +I descended holding the free end. A strong piece of cord was also attached +to the ring, and, on arriving at the bottom, this was pulled; the ring +slid back again, and the loop was whipped off readily. By means of these +two simple appliances I was able to ascend and descend rocks, which +otherwise would have been completely impassable for a single person. The +combined weight of these two things amounted to less than half-a-pound. + + [Illustration: Rope and rin] + +It has been mentioned (p. 55) that the rocks of the south-west ridge are +by no means difficult for some distance above the Col du Lion. This is +true of the rocks up to the level of the Chimney, but they steepen when +that is passed, and remaining smooth and with but few fractures, and still +continuing to dip outwards, present some steps of a very uncertain kind, +particularly when they are glazed with ice. At this point (just above the +Chimney) the climber is obliged to follow the southern (or Breil) side of +the ridge, but, in a few feet more, one must turn over to the northern (or +Z'Mutt) side, where, in most years, nature kindly provides a snow-slope. +When this is surmounted, one can again return to the crest of the ridge, +and follow it, by easy rocks, to the foot of the Great Tower. This was the +highest point attained by Mr. Hawkins in 1860, and it was also our highest +on the 9th of July. + +This Great Tower is one of the most striking features of the ridge. It +stands out like a turret at the angle of a castle. Behind it a +battlemented wall leads upwards to the citadel.(58) Seen from the Théodule +pass, it looks only an insignificant pinnacle, but as one approaches it +(on the ridge) so it seems to rise, and, when one is at its base, it +completely conceals the upper parts of the mountain. I found here a +suitable place for the tent; which, although not so well protected as the +second platform, possessed the advantage of being 300 feet higher up; and +fascinated by the wildness of the cliffs, and enticed by the perfection of +the weather, I went on to see what was behind. + +The first step was a difficult one. The ridge became diminished to the +least possible width--it was hard to keep one's balance--and just where it +was narrowest, a more than perpendicular mass barred the way. Nothing +fairly within arm's reach could be laid hold of; it was necessary to +spring up, and then to haul one's-self over the sharp edge by sheer +strength. Progression directly upwards was then impossible. Enormous and +appalling precipices plunged down to the Tiefenmatten glacier on the left, +but round the right-hand side it was just possible to go. One hindrance +then succeeded another, and much time was consumed in seeking the way. I +have a vivid recollection of a gully of more than usual perplexity at the +side of the Great Tower, with minute ledges and steep walls; of the ledges +dwindling down and at last ceasing; and of finding myself, with arms and +legs divergent, fixed as if crucified, pressing against the rock, and +feeling each rise and fall of my chest as I breathed; of screwing my head +round to look for hold, and not seeing any, and of jumping sideways on to +the other side. 'Tis vain to attempt to describe such places. Whether they +are sketched with a light hand, or wrought out in laborious detail, one +stands an equal chance of being misunderstood. Their enchantment to the +climber arises from their calls on his faculties, in their demands on his +strength, and on overcoming the impediments which they oppose to his +skill. The non-mountaineering reader cannot feel this, and his interest in +descriptions of such places is usually small, unless he supposes that the +situations are perilous. They are not necessarily perilous, but I think +that it is impossible to avoid giving such an impression if the +difficulties are particularly insisted upon. + +About this part there was a change in the quality of the rock, and there +was a change in the general appearance of the ridge. The rocks (talcose +gneiss) below this spot were singularly firm; it was rarely necessary to +test one's hold; the way led over the living rock, and not up rent-off +fragments. But here, all was decay and ruin. The crest of the ridge was +shattered and cleft, and the feet sank in the chips which had drifted +down; while above, huge blocks, hacked and carved by the hand of time, +nodded to the sky, looking like the grave-stones of giants. Out of +curiosity I wandered to a notch in the ridge, between two tottering piles +of immense masses, which seemed to need but a few pounds on one or the +other side to make them fall; so nicely poised that they would literally +have rocked in the wind, for they were put in motion by a touch; and based +on support so frail that I wondered they did not collapse before my eyes. +In the whole range of my Alpine experience I have seen nothing more +striking than this desolate, ruined, and shattered ridge at the back of +the Great Tower. I have seen stranger shapes,--rocks which mimic the human +form, with monstrous leering faces--and isolated pinnacles, sharper and +greater than any here; but I have never seen exhibited so impressively the +tremendous effects which may be produced by frost, and by the +long-continued action of forces whose individual effects are barely +perceptible. + +It is needless to say that it is impossible to climb by the crest of the +ridge at this part; still one is compelled to keep near to it, for there +is no other way. Generally speaking, the angles on the Matterhorn are too +steep to allow the formation of considerable beds of snow, but here there +is a corner which permits it to accumulate, and it is turned to +gratefully, for, by its assistance, one can ascend four times as rapidly +as upon the rocks. + +The Tower was now almost out of sight, and I looked over the central +Pennine Alps to the Grand Combin, and to the chain of Mont Blanc. My +neighbour, the Dent d'Hérens, still rose above me, although but slightly, +and the height which had been attained could be measured by its help. So +far, I had no doubts about my capacity to descend that which had been +ascended; but, in a short time, on looking ahead, I saw that the cliffs +steepened, and I turned back (without pushing on to them, and getting into +inextricable difficulties), exulting in the thought that they would be +passed when we returned together, and that I had, without assistance, got +nearly to the height of the Dent d'Hérens, and considerably higher than +any one had been before.(59) My exultation was a little premature. + +About 5 P.M. I left the tent again, and thought myself as good as at +Breil. The friendly rope and claw had done good service, and had +smoothened all the difficulties. I lowered myself through the Chimney, +however, by making a fixture of the rope, which I then cut off, and left +behind, as there was enough and to spare. My axe had proved a great +nuisance in coming down, and I left it in the tent. It was not attached to +the bâton, but was a separate affair,--an old navy boarding-axe. While +cutting up the different snow-beds on the ascent, the bâton trailed behind +fastened to the rope; and, when climbing, the axe was carried behind, run +through the rope tied round my waist, and was sufficiently out of the way. +But in descending, when coming down face outwards (as is always best where +it is possible), the head or the handle of the weapon caught frequently +against the rocks, and several times nearly upset me. So, out of laziness +if you will, it was left in the tent. I paid dearly for the imprudence. + +The Col du Lion was passed, and fifty yards more would have placed me on +the "Great Staircase," down which one can run. But on arriving at an angle +of the cliffs of the Tête du Lion, while skirting the upper edge of the +snow which abuts against them, I found that the heat of the two past days +had nearly obliterated the steps which had been cut when coming up. The +rocks happened to be impracticable just at this corner, so nothing could +be done except make the steps afresh. The snow was too hard to beat or +tread down, and at the angle it was all but ice. Half-a-dozen steps only +were required, and then the ledges could be followed again. So I held to +the rock with my right hand, and prodded at the snow with the point of my +stick until a good step was made, and then, leaning round the angle, did +the same for the other side. So far well, but in attempting to pass the +corner (to the present moment I cannot tell how it happened) I slipped and +fell. + + [Illustration: "THE CHIMNEY." + (ON THE SOUTH-WEST RIDGE OF THE MATTERHORN).] + +The slope was steep on which this took place, and was at the top of a +gully that led down through two subordinate buttresses towards the Glacier +du Lion--which was just seen, a thousand feet below. The gully narrowed and +narrowed, until there was a mere thread of snow lying between two walls of +rock, which came to an abrupt termination at the top of a precipice that +intervened between it and the glacier. Imagine a funnel cut in half +through its length, placed at an angle of 45 degrees, with its point below +and its concave side uppermost, and you will have a fair idea of the +place. + +The knapsack brought my head down first, and I pitched into some rocks +about a dozen feet below; they caught something and tumbled me off the +edge, head over heels, into the gully; the bâton was dashed from my hands, +and I whirled downwards in a series of bounds, each longer than the last; +now over ice, now into rocks; striking my head four or five times, each +time with increased force. The last bound sent me spinning through the +air, in a leap of fifty or sixty feet, from one side of the gully to the +other, and I struck the rocks, luckily, with the whole of my left side. +They caught my clothes for a moment, and I fell back on to the snow with +motion arrested. My head fortunately came the right side up, and a few +frantic catches brought me to a halt, in the neck of the gully, and on the +verge of the precipice. Bâton, hat, and veil skimmed by and disappeared, +and the crash of the rocks--which I had started--as they fell on to the +glacier, told how narrow had been the escape from utter destruction. As it +was, I fell nearly 200 feet in seven or eight bounds. Ten feet more would +have taken me in one gigantic leap of 800 feet on to the glacier below. + +The situation was sufficiently serious. The rocks could not be left go for +a moment, and the blood was spirting out of more than twenty cuts. The +most serious ones were in the head, and I vainly tried to close them with +one hand, whilst holding on with the other. It was useless; the blood +jerked out in blinding jets at each pulsation. At last, in a moment of +inspiration, I kicked out a big lump of snow, and stuck it as a plaster on +my head. The idea was a happy one, and the flow of blood diminished. Then, +scrambling up, I got, not a moment too soon, to a place of safety, and +fainted away. The sun was setting when consciousness returned, and it was +pitch dark before the Great Staircase was descended; but, by a combination +of luck and care, the whole 4800 feet of descent to Breil was accomplished +without a slip, or once missing the way. I slunk past the cabin of the +cowherds, who were talking and laughing inside, utterly ashamed of the +state to which I had been brought by my imbecility, and entered the inn +stealthily, wishing to escape to my room unnoticed. But Favre met me in +the passage, demanded "Who is it?" screamed with fright when he got a +light, and aroused the household. Two dozen heads then held solemn council +over mine, with more talk than action. The natives were unanimous in +recommending that hot wine (syn. vinegar), mixed with salt, should be +rubbed into the cuts. I protested, but they insisted. It was all the +doctoring they received. Whether their rapid healing was to be attributed +to that simple remedy, or to a good state of health, is a question; they +closed up remarkably quickly, and in a few days I was able to move +again.(60) + + [Illustration: "IN ATTEMPTING TO PASS THE CORNER I SLIPPED AND FELL."] + + [Illustration: AT BREIL (GIOMEIN).] + +It was sufficiently dull during this time. I was chiefly occupied in +meditating on the vanity of human wishes, and in watching my clothes being +washed in the tub which was turned by the stream in the front of the +house; and I vowed that if an Englishman should at any time fall sick in +the Val Tournanche, he should not feel so solitary as I did at this dreary +time.(61) + +The news of the accident brought Jean-Antoine Carrel up to Breil, and, +along with the haughty chasseur, came one of his relatives, a strong and +able young fellow named Cæsar. With these two men and Meynet I made +another start on the 23rd of July. We got to the tent without any trouble, +and on the following day had ascended beyond the Tower, and were picking +our way cautiously over the loose rocks behind (where my traces of the +week before were well apparent) in lovely weather, when one of those +abominable and almost instantaneous changes occurred, to which the +Matterhorn is so liable on its southern side. Mists were created out of +invisible vapours, and in a few minutes snow fell heavily. We stopped, as +this part was of excessive difficulty, and, unwilling to retreat, remained +on the spot several hours, in hopes that another change would occur; but, +as it did not, we at length went down to the base of the Tower, and +commenced to make a third platform, at the height of 12,992 feet above the +sea. It still continued to snow, and we took refuge in the tent. Carrel +argued that the weather had broken up, and that the mountain would become +so glazed with ice as to render any attempt futile; and I, that the change +was only temporary, and that the rocks were too hot to allow ice to form +upon them. I wished to stay until the weather improved, but my leader +would not endure contradiction, grew more positive, and insisted that we +must go down. We went down, and when we got below the Col his opinion was +found to be wrong; the cloud was confined to the upper 3000 feet, and +outside it there was brilliant weather. + +Carrel was not an easy man to manage. He was perfectly aware that he was +the cock of the Val Tournanche, and he commanded the other men as by +right. He was equally conscious that he was indispensable to me, and took +no pains to conceal his knowledge of the fact. If he had been commanded, +or if he had been entreated to stop, it would have been all the same. But, +let me repeat, he was the only first-rate climber I could find who +believed that the mountain was not inaccessible. With him I had hopes, but +without him none; so he was allowed to do as he would. His will on this +occasion was almost incomprehensible. He certainly could not be charged +with cowardice, for a bolder man could hardly be found; nor was he turning +away on account of difficulty, for nothing to which we had yet come seemed +to be difficult to _him_; and his strong personal desire to make the +ascent was evident. There was no occasion to come down on account of food, +for we had taken, to guard against this very casualty, enough to last for +a week; and there was no danger, and little or no discomfort, in stopping +in the tent. It seemed to me that he was spinning out the ascent for his +own purposes, and that although he wished very much to be the first man on +the top, and did not object to be accompanied by any one else who had the +same wish, he had no intention of letting one succeed too soon,--perhaps to +give a greater appearance of _éclat_ when the thing was accomplished. As +he feared no rival, he may have supposed that the more difficulties he +made the more valuable he would be estimated; though, to do him justice, +he never showed any great hunger for money. His demands were fair, not +excessive; but he always stipulated for so much per day, and so, under any +circumstances, he did not do badly. + +Vexed at having my time thus frittered away, I was still well pleased when +he volunteered to start again on the morrow, if it should be fine. We were +to advance the tent to the foot of the Tower, to fix ropes in the most +difficult parts beyond, and to make a push for the summit on the following +day. + +The next morning (Friday the 25th) when I arose, good little Meynet was +ready and waiting, and he said that the two Carrels had gone off some time +before, and had left word that they intended marmot-hunting, as the day +was favourable for that sport.(62) My holiday had nearly expired, and +these men clearly could not be relied upon; so, as a last resort, I +proposed to the hunchback to accompany me alone, to see if we could not +get higher than before, though of reaching the summit there was little or +no hope. He did not hesitate, and in a few hours we stood--for the third +time together--upon the Col du Lion. It was the first time Meynet had seen +the view unclouded. The poor little deformed peasant gazed upon it +silently and reverently for a time, and then, unconsciously, fell on one +knee in an attitude of adoration, and clasped his hands, exclaiming in +ecstasy, "Oh, beautiful mountains!" His actions were as appropriate as his +words were natural, and tears bore witness to the reality of his emotion. + +Our power was too limited to advance the tent, so we slept at the old +station, and starting very early the next morning, passed the place where +we had turned back on the 24th, and, subsequently, my highest point on the +19th. We found the crest of the ridge so treacherous that we took to the +cliffs on the right, although most unwillingly. Little by little we fought +our way up, but at length we were both spread-eagled on the all but +perpendicular face, unable to advance, and barely able to descend. We +returned to the ridge. It was almost equally difficult, and infinitely +more unstable; and at length, after having pushed our attempts as far as +was prudent, I determined to return to Breil, and to have a light ladder +made to assist us to overcome some of the steepest parts.(63) I expected, +too, that by this time Carrel would have had enough marmot-hunting, and +would deign to accompany us again. + +We came down at a great pace, for we were now so familiar with the +mountain, and with each other's wants, that we knew immediately when to +give a helping hand, and when to let alone. The rocks also were in a +better state than I have ever seen them, being almost entirely free from +glaze of ice. Meynet was always merriest on the difficult parts, and, on +the most difficult, kept on enunciating the sentiment, "We can only die +once," which thought seemed to afford him infinite satisfaction. We +arrived at the inn early in the evening, and I found my projects summarily +and unexpectedly knocked on the head. + +Professor Tyndall had arrived while we were absent, and he had engaged +both Cæsar and Jean-Antoine Carrel. Bennen was also with him, together +with a powerful and active friend, a Valaisan guide, named Anton Walter. +They had a ladder already prepared, provisions were being collected, and +they intended to start on the following morning (Sunday). This new arrival +took me by surprise. Bennen, it will be remembered, refused point-blank to +take Professor Tyndall on the Matterhorn in 1861. "He was dead against any +attempt on the mountain," says Tyndall. He was now eager to set out. +Professor Tyndall has not explained in what way this revolution came about +in his guide. I was equally astonished at the faithlessness of Carrel, and +attributed it to pique at our having presumed to do without him. It was +useless to compete with the Professor and his four men, who were ready to +start in a few hours, so I waited to see what would come of their +attempt.(64) + +Everything seemed to favour it, and they set out on a fine morning in high +spirits, leaving me tormented with envy and all uncharitableness. If they +succeeded, they carried off the prize for which I had been so long +struggling; and if they failed, there was no time to make another attempt, +for I was due in a few days more in London. When this came home clearly to +me, I resolved to leave Breil at once; but, when packing up, found that +some necessaries had been left behind in the tent. So I went off about +midday to recover them; caught the army of the Professor before it reached +the Col, as they were going very slowly; left them there (stopping to take +food), and went on to the tent. I was near to it when all at once I heard +a noise aloft, and, on looking up, perceived a stone of at least a foot +cube flying straight at my head. I ducked, and scrambled under the lee +side of a friendly rock, while the stone went by with a loud buzz. It was +the advanced guard of a perfect storm of stones, which descended with +infernal clatter down the very edge of the ridge, leaving a trail of dust +behind, with a strong smell of sulphur, that told who had sent them. The +men below were on the look-out, but the stones did not come near them, and +breaking away on one side went down to the Glacier du Lion.(65) + +I waited at the tent to welcome the Professor, and when he arrived went +down to Breil. Early next morning some one ran to me saying that a flag +was seen on the summit of the Matterhorn. It was not so, however, although +I saw that they had passed the place where we had turned back on the 26th. +I had now no doubt of their final success, for they had got beyond the +point which Carrel, not less than myself, had always considered to be the +most questionable place on the whole mountain. Up to it there was no +choice of route,--I suppose that at no one point between it and the Col was +it possible to diverge a dozen paces to the right or left, but beyond it +it was otherwise, and we had always agreed, in our debates, that if it +could be passed success was certain. The accompanying outline from a +sketch taken from the door of the inn at Breil will help to explain. The +letter *A* indicates the position of the Great Tower; *C* the "cravate" +(the strongly-marked streak of snow referred to on p. 76, and which we +just failed to arrive at on the 26th); *B* the place where we now saw +something that looked like a flag. Behind the point B a nearly level ridge +leads up to the foot of the final peak, which will be understood by a +reference to the outline facing p. 44, on which the same letters indicate +the same places. It was just now said, we considered that if the point *C* +could be passed, success was certain. Tyndall was at *B* very early in the +morning, and I did not doubt that he would reach the summit, although it +yet remained problematical whether he would be able to stand on the very +highest point. The summit was evidently formed of a long ridge, on which +there were two points nearly equally elevated--so equally that one could +not say which was the highest--and between the two there seemed to be a +deep notch, marked *D* on the outlines, which might defeat one at the very +last moment. + + [Illustration: A CANNONADE ON THE MATTERHORN (1862).] + + [Illustration: The Matterhorn from Breil] + +My knapsack was packed, and I had taken a parting glass of wine with +Favre, who was jubilant at the success which was to make the fortune of +his inn; but I could not bring myself to leave until the result was heard, +and lingered about, as a foolish lover hovers round the object of his +affections, even after he has been contemptuously rejected. The sun had +set before the men were descried coming over the pastures. There was no +spring in their steps--they, too, were defeated. The Carrels hid their +heads, and the others said, as men will do when they have been beaten, +that the mountain was horrible, impossible, and so forth. Professor +Tyndall told me they had arrived _within a stone's throw of the summit_, +and admonished me to have nothing more to do with the mountain. I +understood him to say that he should not try again, and ran down to the +village of Val Tournanche, almost inclined to believe that the mountain +was inaccessible; leaving the tent, ropes, and other matters in the hands +of Favre, to be placed at the disposal of any person who wished to ascend +it, more, I am afraid, out of irony than from generosity. There may have +been those who believed that the Matterhorn could be ascended, but, +anyhow, their faith did not bring forth works. No one tried again in 1862. + + + +Business took me into Dauphiné before returning to London, and a week +after Tyndall's defeat I lay one night, after a sultry day, half-asleep, +tossing about in one of the abominations which serve for beds in the inn +kept by the Deputy-Mayor of La Ville de Val Louise; looking at a strange +ruddiness on the ceiling, which I thought might be some effect of +electricity produced by the irritation of the myriads of fleas; when the +great bell of the church, close at hand, pealed out with loud and hurried +clangour. I jumped up, for the voices and movements of the people in the +house made me think of fire. It _was_ fire; and I saw from my window, on +the other side of the river, great forked flames shooting high into the +sky, black dots with long shadows hurrying towards the place, and the +crests of the ridges catching the light and standing out like spectres. +All the world was in motion, for the neighbouring villages--now +aroused--rang out the alarm. I pulled on my shirt, and tore over the +bridge. Three large chalets were on fire, and were surrounded by a mass of +people, who were bringing all their pots and pans, and anything that would +hold water. They formed themselves into several chains, each two deep, +leading towards the nearest stream, and passed the water up one side, and +the empty utensils down the other. My old friend the mayor was there, in +full force, striking the ground with his stick, and vociferating, "Work! +work!" but the men, with much presence of mind, chiefly ranged themselves +on the sides of the empty buckets, and left the real work to their better +halves. Their efforts were useless, and the chalets burnt themselves out. + +The next morning I visited the still smouldering ruins, and saw the +homeless families sitting in a dismal row in front of their charred +property. The people said that one of the houses had been well insured, +and that its owner had endeavoured to forestall luck. He had arranged the +place for a bonfire, set the lower rooms on fire in several places, and +had then gone out of the way, leaving his wife and children in the upper +rooms, to be roasted or not as the case might be. His plans only partially +succeeded, and it was satisfactory to see the scoundrel brought back in +the custody of two stalwart gensdarmes. Three days afterwards I was in +London. + + [Illustration: "BUT WHAT IS THIS?"] + + + + + + CHAPTER V. + + + THE VAL TOURNANCHE--DIRECT PASS FROM BREIL TO ZERMATT + (BREUILJOCH)--ZERMATT--FIRST ASCENT OF THE GRAND TOURNALIN. + + + "How like a winter hath my absence been + From thee, the pleasure of a fleeting year!" + W. SHAKESPEARE. + + +I crossed the Channel on the 29th of July 1863, embarrassed by the +possession of two ladders, each twelve feet long, which joined together +like those used by firemen, and shut up like parallel rulers. My luggage +was highly suggestive of housebreaking, for, besides these, there were +several coils of rope, and numerous tools of suspicious appearance, and it +was reluctantly admitted into France, but it passed through the +custom-house with less trouble than I anticipated, after a timely +expenditure of a few francs. + +I am not in love with the douane. It is the purgatory of travellers, where +uncongenial spirits mingle together for a time, before they are separated +into rich and poor. The douaniers look upon tourists as their natural +enemies; see how eagerly they pounce upon the portmanteaux! One of them +has discovered something! He has never seen its like before, and he holds +it aloft in the face of its owner, with inquisitorial insolence. "But +_what is_ this?" The explanation is only half-satisfactory. "But what is +_this_?" says he, laying hold of a little box. "Powder." "But that it is +forbidden to carry of powder on the railway." "Bah!" says another and +older hand, "pass the effects of Monsieur;" and our countryman--whose +cheeks had begun to redden under the stares of his fellow-travellers--is +allowed to depart with his half-worn tooth-brush, while the discomfited +douanier gives a mighty shrug at the strange habits of those "whose +insular position excludes them from the march of continental ideas." + +My real troubles commenced at Susa. The officials there, more honest and +more obtuse than the Frenchmen, declined at one and the same time to be +bribed, or to pass my baggage until a satisfactory account of it was +rendered; and, as they refused to believe the true explanation, I was +puzzled what to say, but was presently relieved from the dilemma by one of +the men, who was cleverer than his fellows, suggesting that I was going to +Turin to exhibit in the streets; that I mounted the ladder and balanced +myself on the end of it, then lighted my pipe and put the point of the +bâton in its bowl, and caused the bâton to gyrate around my head. The rope +was to keep back the spectators, and an Englishman in my company was the +agent. "Monsieur is acrobat then?" "Yes, certainly." "Pass the effects of +Monsieur the acrobat!" + +These ladders were the source of endless trouble. Let us pass over the +doubts of the guardians of the Hôtel d'Europe (Trombetta), whether a +person in the possession of such questionable articles should be admitted +to their very respectable house, and get to Chatillon, at the entrance of +the Val Tournanche. A mule was chartered to carry them, and, as they were +too long to sling across its back, they were arranged lengthways, and one +end projected over the animal's head, while the other extended beyond its +tail. A mule when going up or down hill always moves with a jerky action, +and in consequence of this the ladders hit my mule severe blows between +its ears and in its flanks. The beast, not knowing what strange creature +it had on its back, naturally tossed its head and threw out its legs, and +this, of course, only made the blows that it received more severe. At last +it ran away, and would have perished by rolling down a precipice, if the +men had not caught hold of its tail. The end of the matter was that a man +had to follow the mule, holding the end of the ladders, which obliged him +to move his arms up and down incessantly, and to bow to the hind quarters +of the animal in a way that afforded more amusement to his comrades than +it did to him. + +I was once more _en route_ for the Matterhorn, for I had heard in the +spring of 1863 the cause of the failure of Professor Tyndall, and learnt +that the case was not so hopeless as it appeared to be at one time. I +found that he arrived as far only as the northern end of "the shoulder." +The point at which he says,(66) they "sat down with broken hopes, the +summit within a stone's throw of us, but still defying us," was not the +notch or cleft at D (which is literally within a stone's throw of the +summit), but another and more formidable cleft that intervenes between the +northern end of "the shoulder" and the commencement of the final peak. It +is marked E on the outline which faces p. 44. Carrel and all the men who +had been with me knew of the existence of this cleft, and of the pinnacle +which rose between it and the final peak;(67) and we had frequently talked +about the best manner of passing the place. On this we disagreed, but we +were both of opinion that when we got to "the shoulder," it would be +necessary to bear down gradually to the right or to the left, to avoid +coming to the top of the notch. Tyndall's party, after arriving at "the +shoulder," was led by his guides along the crest of the ridge, and, +consequently, when they got to its northern end, they came to the top of +the notch, instead of the bottom--to the dismay of all but the Carrels. Dr. +Tyndall's words are, "The ridge was here split by a deep cleft which +separated it from the final precipice, and the case became more hopeless +as we came more near." The Professor adds, "The mountain is 14,800 feet +high, and 14,600 feet had been accomplished." He greatly deceived himself; +by the barometric measurements of Signor Giordano the notch is no less +than 800 feet below the summit. The guide Walter (Dr. Tyndall says) said +it was impossible to proceed, and the Carrels, appealed to for their +opinion (this is their own account), gave as an answer, "We are porters; +ask your guides." Bennen, thus left to himself, "was finally forced to +accept defeat." Tyndall had nevertheless accomplished an advance of about +400 feet over one of the most difficult parts of the mountain. + +There are material discrepancies between the published narratives of +Professor Tyndall(68) and the verbal accounts of the Carrels. The former +says the men had to be "urged on," that "they pronounced flatly against +the final precipice," "they yielded so utterly," and that Bennen said, in +answer to a final appeal made to him, "'What could I do, sir? not one of +them would accompany me.' It was the accurate truth." Jean-Antoine Carrel +says that when Professor Tyndall gave the order to turn _he_ would have +advanced to examine the route, as he did not think that farther progress +was impossible, but he was stopped by the Professor, and was naturally +obliged to follow the others.(69) These disagreements may well be left to +be settled by those who are concerned. Tyndall, Walter, and Bennen, now +disappear from this history.(70) + + [Illustration: An arch of the aqueduct in the Val Tournanche] + +The Val Tournanche is one of the most charming valleys in the Italian +Alps; it is a paradise to an artist, and if the space at my command were +greater, I would willingly linger over its groves of chestnuts, its bright +trickling rills and its roaring torrents, its upland unsuspected valleys +and its noble cliffs. The path rises steeply from Chatillon, but it is +well shaded, and the heat of the summer sun is tempered by cool air and +spray which comes off the ice-cold streams.(71) One sees from the path, at +several places on the right bank of the valley, groups of arches which +have been built high up against the faces of the cliffs. Guide-books +repeat--on whose authority I know not--that they are the remains of a Roman +aqueduct. They have the Roman boldness of conception, but the work has not +the usual Roman solidity. The arches have always seemed to me to be the +remains of an _unfinished_ work, and I learn from Jean-Antoine Carrel that +there are other groups of arches, which are not seen from the path, all +having the same appearance. It may be questioned whether those seen near +the village of Antey are Roman. Some of them are semicircular, whilst +others are distinctly pointed. Here is one of the latter, which might pass +for fourteenth-century work, or later;--a two-centred arch, with mean +voussoirs, and the masonry in rough courses. These arches are well worth +the attention of an archæologist, but some difficulty will be found in +approaching them closely. + +We sauntered up the valley, and got to Breil when all were asleep. A halo +round the moon promised watery weather, and we were not disappointed, for, +on the next day (August 1), rain fell heavily, and when the clouds lifted +for a time, we saw that new snow lay thickly over everything higher than +9000 feet. J.-A. Carrel was ready and waiting (as I had determined to give +the bold cragsman another chance); and he did not need to say that the +Matterhorn would be impracticable for several days after all this new +snow, even if the weather were to arrange itself at once. Our first day +together was accordingly spent upon a neighbouring summit, the Cimes +Blanches; a degraded mountain, well known for its fine panoramic view. It +was little that we saw; for, in every direction except to the south, +writhing masses of heavy clouds obscured everything; and to the south our +view was intercepted by a peak higher than the Cimes Blanches, named the +Grand Tournalin.(72) But we got some innocent pleasure out of watching the +gambolings of a number of goats, who became fast friends after we had +given them some salt; in fact, too fast, and caused us no little annoyance +when we were descending. "Carrel," I said, as a number of stones whizzed +by which they had dislodged, "this must be put a stop to." "Diable!" he +grunted, "it is very well to talk, but how will you do it?" I said that I +would try; and, sitting down, poured a little brandy into the hollow of my +hand, and allured the nearest goat with deceitful gestures. It was one who +had gobbled up the paper in which the salt had been carried--an animal of +enterprising character--and it advanced fearlessly and licked up the +brandy. I shall not easily forget its surprise. It stopped short, and +coughed, and looked at me as much as to say, "Oh, you cheat!" and spat and +ran away; stopping now and then to cough and spit again. We were not +troubled any more by those goats. + +More snow fell during the night, and our attempt on the Matterhorn was +postponed indefinitely. As there was nothing to be done at Breil, I +determined to make the tour of the mountain, and commenced by inventing a +pass from Breil to Zermatt,(73) in place of the hackneyed Théodule. Any +one who looks at the map will see that the latter pass makes a +considerable détour to the east, and, apparently, goes out of the way. I +thought that it was possible to strike out a shorter route, both in +distance and in time, and we set out on the 3rd of August, to carry out +the idea. We followed the Théodule path for some time, but quitted it when +it bore away to the east, and kept straight on until we struck the moraine +of the Mont Cervin glacier. Our track still continued in a straight line +up the centre of the glacier to the foot of a tooth of rock, which juts +prominently out of the ridge (Furggengrat) connecting the Matterhorn with +the Théodulehorn. The head of the glacier was connected with this little +peak by a steep bank of snow; but we were able to go straight up, and +struck the Col at its lowest point, a little to the right (that is to say, +to the east) of the above-mentioned peak. On the north there was a +snow-slope corresponding to that on the other side. Half-an-hour took us +to its base. We then bore away over the nearly level plateau of the +Furggengletscher, making a straight track to the Hörnli, from whence we +descended to Zermatt by one of the well-known paths. This pass has been +dubbed the Breuiljoch by the Swiss surveyors. It is a few feet higher than +the Théodule, and it may be recommended to those who are familiar with +that pass, as it gives equally fine views, and is accessible at all times. +But it will never be frequented like the Théodule, as the snow-slope at +its summit, at certain times, will require the use of the axe. It took us +six hours and a quarter to go from one place to the other, which was an +hour longer than we would have occupied by the Théodule, although the +distance in miles is less. + +It is stated in one of the MS. note-books of the late Principal J. D. +Forbes, that this depression, now called the Breuiljoch, was formerly +_the_ pass between the Val Tournanche and Zermatt, and that it was +abandoned for the Théodule in consequence of changes in the glaciers.(74) +The authority for the statement was not given. I presume it was from local +tradition, but I readily credit it; for, before the time that the glaciers +had shrunk to so great an extent, the steep snow-slopes above mentioned, +in all probability, did not exist; and, most likely, the glaciers led by +very gentle gradients up to the summit; in which case the route would have +formed the natural highway between the two places. It is far from +impossible, if the glaciers continue to diminish at their present rapid +rate,(75) that the Théodule itself, the easiest and the most frequented of +all the higher Alpine passes, may, in the course of a few years, become +somewhat difficult; and if this should be the case, the prosperity of +Zermatt will probably suffer.(76) + +Carrel and I wandered out again in the afternoon, and went, first of all, +to a favourite spot with tourists near the end of the Gorner glacier (or, +properly speaking, the Boden glacier), to a little verdant flat--studded +with _Euphrasia officinalis_--the delight of swarms of bees, who gather +there the honey which afterwards appears at the _table d'hôte_. + +[Illustration: WATER-WORN ROCKS IN THE GORGE BELOW THE GORNER GLACIER.] + +On our right the glacier-torrent thundered down the valley through a gorge +with precipitous sides, not easily approached; for the turf at the top was +slippery, and the rocks had everywhere been rounded by the glacier,--which +formerly extended far away. This gorge seems to have been made chiefly by +the torrent, and to have been excavated subsequently to the retreat of the +glacier. It seems so because not merely upon its walls are there the marks +of running water, but even upon the rounded rocks at the top of its walls, +at a height of seventy or eighty feet above the present level of the +torrent, there are some of those queer concavities which rapid streams +alone are known to produce on rocks. + + [Illustration: STRIATIONS PRODUCED BY GLACIER-ACTION (AT GRINDELWALD).] + +A little bridge, apparently frail, spans the torrent just above the +entrance to this gorge, and from it one perceives, being fashioned in the +rocks below, concavities similar to those to which reference has just been +made. The torrent is seen hurrying forwards. Not everywhere. In some +places the water strikes projecting angles, and, thrown back by them, +remains almost stationary, eddying round and round: in others, +obstructions fling it up in fountains, which play perpetually on the +_under_ surfaces of overhanging masses; and sometimes do so in such a way +that the water not only works upon the under surfaces, but round the +corner; that is to say, upon the surfaces which are _not_ opposed to the +general direction of the current. In all cases _concavities_ are being +produced. Projecting angles are rounded, it is true, and are more or less +convex, but they are overlooked on account of the prevalence of concave +forms. + +Cause and effect help each other here. The inequalities of the torrent bed +and walls cause its eddyings, and the eddies fashion the concavities. The +more profound the latter become, the more disturbance is caused in the +water. The destruction of the rocks proceeds at an ever-increasing rate; +for the larger the amount of surface that is exposed, the greater are the +opportunities for the assaults of heat and cold. + +When water is in the form of glacier it has not the power of making +concavities, such as these, in rocks, and of working upon surfaces which +are not opposed to the direction of the current. Its nature is changed; it +operates in a different way, and it leaves marks which are readily +distinguished from those produced by torrent-action. + +The prevailing forms which result from glacier-action are more or less +_convex_. Ultimately, all angles and almost all curves are obliterated, +and large areas of flat surfaces are produced. This perfection of abrasion +is rarely found, except in such localities as have sustained a grinding +much more severe than that which has occurred in the Alps; and, generally +speaking, the dictum of the veteran geologist Studer, quoted below, is +undoubtedly true.(77) Not merely can the operations of extinct glaciers be +traced in detail by means of the bosses of rock popularly termed _roches +moutonnées_, but their effects in the aggregate, on a range of mountains +or an entire country, can be recognised sometimes at a distance of fifteen +or twenty miles from the incessant repetition of these convex forms. + + + +We finished up the 3d of August with a walk over the Findelen glacier, and +returned to Zermatt at a later hour than we intended, both very sleepy. +This is noteworthy only on account of that which followed. We had to cross +the Col de Valpelline on the next day, and an early start was desirable. +Monsieur Seiler, excellent man, knowing this, called us himself, and when +he came to my door, I answered, "All right, Seiler, I will get up," and +immediately turned over to the other side, saying to myself, "First of +all, ten minutes more sleep." But Seiler waited and listened, and, +suspecting the case, knocked again. "Herr Whymper, have you got a light?" +Without thinking what the consequences might be, I answered, "No," and +then the worthy man actually forced the lock off his own door to give me +one. By similar and equally friendly and disinterested acts, Monsieur +Seiler has acquired his enviable reputation. + +At 4 A.M. we left his Monte Rosa Hotel, and were soon pushing our way +through the thickets of grey alder that skirt the path up the right bank +of the exquisite little valley which leads to the Z'Muttgletscher. + +Nothing can well seem more inaccessible than the Matterhorn upon this +side; and even in cold blood one holds the breath when looking at its +stupendous cliffs. There are but few equal to them in size in the Alps, +and there are none which can more truly be termed _precipices_. Greatest +of them all is the immense north cliff,--that which bends over towards the +Z'Muttgletscher. Stones which drop from the top of that amazing wall fall +for about 1500 feet before they touch anything; and those which roll down +from above, and bound over it, fall to a much greater depth, and leap +well-nigh 1000 feet beyond its base. This side of the mountain has always +seemed sombre--sad--terrible; it is painfully suggestive of decay, ruin, and +death; and it is now, alas! more than terrible by its associations. + +"There is no aspect of destruction about the Matterhorn cliffs," says +Professor Ruskin. Granted;--when they are seen from afar. But approach, and +sit down by the side of the Z'Muttgletscher, and you will hear that their +piecemeal destruction is proceeding ceaselessly--incessantly. You will +_hear_, but, probably, you will not _see_; for even when the descending +masses thunder as loudly as heavy guns, and the echoes roll back from the +Ebihorn opposite, they will still be as pin-points against this grand old +face, so vast is its scale! + +If you would see the "aspects of destruction," you must come still closer, +and climb its cliffs and ridges, or mount to the plateau of the +Matterhorngletscher, which is cut up and ploughed up by these missiles, +and strewn on its surface with their smaller fragments; the larger masses, +falling with tremendous velocity, plunge into the snow and are lost to +sight. + +The Matterhorngletscher, too, sends down _its_ avalanches, as if in +rivalry with the rocks behind. Round the whole of its northern side it +does not terminate in the usual manner by gentle slopes, but comes to a +sudden end at the top of the steep rocks which lie betwixt it and the +Z'Muttgletscher; and seldom does an hour pass without a huge slice +breaking away and falling with dreadful uproar on to the slopes below, +where it is re-compacted. + +The desolate, outside pines of the Z'Mutt forests, stripped of their bark, +and blanched by the weather, are a fit foreground to a scene that can +hardly be surpassed in solemn grandeur. It is a subject worthy of the +pencil of a great painter, and one which would tax the powers of the very +greatest. + +Higher up the glacier the mountain appeared less savage although not less +inaccessible; and, about three hours later, when we arrived at the island +of rock, called the Stockje (which marks the end of the Z'Muttgletscher +proper, and which separates its higher feeder, the Stockgletscher, from +its lower and greater one, the Tiefenmatten), Carrel himself, one of the +least demonstrative of men, could not refrain from expressing wonder at +the steepness of its faces, and at the audacity that had prompted us to +camp upon the south-west ridge; the profile of which is seen very well +from the Stockje.(78) Carrel then saw the north and north-west sides of +the mountain for the first time, and was more firmly persuaded than ever +that an ascent was possible _only_ from the direction of Breil. + +Three years afterwards I was traversing the same spot with the guide Franz +Biener, when all at once a puff of wind brought to us a very bad smell; +and, on looking about, we discovered a dead chamois half-way up the +southern cliffs of the Stockje. We clambered up, and found that it had +been killed by a most uncommon and extraordinary accident. It had slipped +on the upper rocks, had rolled over and over down a slope of débris, +without being able to regain its feet, had fallen over a little patch of +rocks that projected through the débris, and had caught the points of both +horns on a tiny ledge, not an inch broad. It had just been able to touch +the débris, where it led away down from the rocks, and had pawed and +scratched until it could no longer touch. It had evidently been starved to +death, and we found the poor beast almost swinging in the air, with its +head thrown back and tongue protruding, looking to the sky as if imploring +help. + +We had no such excitement as this in 1863, and crossed this easy pass to +the châlets of Prerayen in a very leisurely fashion. From the summit to +Prerayen let us descend in one step. The way has been described before; +and those who wish for information about it should consult the description +of Mr. Jacomb, the discoverer of the pass. Nor need we stop at Prerayen, +except to remark that the owner of the châlets (who is usually taken for a +common herdsman) must not be judged by appearances. He is a man of +substance; he has many flocks and herds; and although, when approached +politely, is courteous, he can (and probably will) act as the _master_ of +Prerayen, if his position is _not_ recognised, and with all the importance +of a man who pays taxes to the extent of 500 francs per annum to his +government. + + [Illustration: CHAMOIS IN DIFFICULTIES.] + +The hill-tops were clouded when we rose from our hay on the 5th of August. +We decided not to continue the tour of our mountain immediately, and +returned over our track of the preceding day to the highest châlet on the +left bank of the valley, with the intention of attacking the Dent d'Erin +on the next morning. We were interested in this summit, more on account of +the excellent view which it commanded of the south-west ridge and the +terminal peak of the Matterhorn, than from any other reason. + +The Dent d'Erin had not been ascended at this time, and we had diverged +from our route on the 4th, and had scrambled some distance up the base of +Mont Brulé, to see how far its south-western slopes were assailable. We +were divided in opinion as to the best way of approaching the peak. +Carrel, true to his habit of sticking to rocks in preference to ice, +counselled ascending by the long buttress of the Tête de Bella Cia (which +descends towards the west, and forms the southern boundary of the last +glacier that falls into the Glacier de Zardesan), and thence traversing +the heads of all the tributaries of the Zardesan to the western and rocky +ridge of the Dent. I, on the other hand, proposed to follow the Glacier de +Zardesan itself throughout its entire length, and from the plateau at its +head (where my proposed route would cross Carrel's) to make directly +towards the summit, up the snow-covered glacier slope, instead of by the +western ridge. The hunchback, who was accompanying us on these excursions, +declared in favour of Carrel's route, and it was accordingly adopted. + +The first part of the programme was successfully executed; and at 10.30 +A.M. on the 6th of August, we were sitting astride the western ridge, at a +height of about 12,500 feet, looking down upon the Tiefenmatten glacier. +To all appearance another hour would place us on the summit; but in +another hour we found that we were not destined to succeed. The ridge +(like all of the principal rocky ridges of the great peaks upon which I +have stood) had been completely shattered by frost, and was nothing more +than a heap of piled up fragments. It was always narrow, and where it was +narrowest it was also the most unstable and the most difficult. On neither +side could we ascend it by keeping a little below its crest,--on the side +of the Tiefenmatten because it was too steep, and on both sides because +the dislodgment of a single block would have disturbed the equilibrium of +all those which were above. Forced, therefore, to keep to the very crest +of the ridge, and unable to deviate a single step either to the right or +to the left, we were compelled to trust ourselves upon unsteady masses, +which trembled under our tread, which sometimes settled down, grating in a +hollow and ominous manner, and which seemed as if a little shake would +send the whole roaring down in one awful avalanche. + +I followed my leader, who said not a word, and did not rebel until we came +to a place where a block had to be surmounted which lay poised across the +ridge. Carrel could not climb it without assistance, or advance beyond it +until I joined him above; and as he stepped off my back on to it, I felt +it quiver and bear down upon me. I doubted the possibility of another man +standing upon it without bringing it down. Then I rebelled. There was no +honour to be gained by persevering, or dishonour in turning from a place +which was dangerous on account of its excessive difficulty. So we returned +to Prerayen, for there was too little time to allow us to re-ascend by the +other route, which was subsequently shown to be the right way up the +mountain. + +Four days afterwards a party of Englishmen (including my friends, W. E. +Hall, Craufurd Grove, and Reginald Macdonald), arrived in the Valpelline, +and (unaware of our attempt) on the 12th, under the skilful guidance of +Melchior Anderegg, made the first ascent of the Dent d'Erin by the route +which I had proposed. This is the only mountain which I have essayed to +ascend, that has not, sooner or later, fallen to me. Our failure was +mortifying, yet I am satisfied that we did wisely in returning, and that +if we had persevered, by Carrel's route, another Alpine accident would +have been recorded. Other routes have been since discovered up the Dent +d'Erin. The ascent ranks amongst the more difficult ones which have been +made in the Alps.(79) + +On the 7th of August we crossed the Va Cornère pass,(80) and had a good +look at the mountain named the Grand Tournalin as we descended the Val de +Chignana. This mountain was seen from so many points, and was so much +higher than any peak in its immediate neighbourhood, that it was bound to +give a very fine view; and (as the weather continued unfavourable for the +Matterhorn) I arranged with Carrel to ascend it the next day, and +despatched him direct to the village of Val Tournanche to make the +necessary preparations, whilst I, with Meynet, made a short cut to Breil, +at the back of Mont Panquero, by a little pass locally known as the Col de +Fenêtre. I rejoined Carrel the same evening at Val Tournanche, and we +started from that place at a little before 5 A.M. on the 8th, to attack +the Tournalin. + +Meynet was left behind for that day, and most unwillingly did the +hunchback part from us, and begged hard to be allowed to come. "Pay me +nothing, only let me go with you;" "I shall want but a little bread and +cheese, and of that I won't eat much;" "I would much rather go with you +than carry things down the valley." Such were his arguments, and I was +really sorry that the rapidity of our movements obliged us to desert the +good little man. + +Carrel led over the meadows on the south and east of the bluff upon which +the village of Val Tournanche is built, and then by a zig-zag path through +a long and steep forest, making many short cuts, which showed he had a +thorough knowledge of the ground. After we came again into daylight, our +route took us up one of those little, concealed, lateral valleys which are +so numerous on the slopes bounding the Val Tournanche. + +This valley, the Combe de Ceneil, has a general easterly trend, and +contains but one small cluster of houses (Ceneil). The Tournalin is +situated at the head of the Combe, and nearly due east of the village of +Val Tournanche, but from that place no part of the mountain is visible. +After Ceneil is passed it comes into view, rising above a cirque of cliffs +(streaked by several fine waterfalls), at the end of the Combe. To avoid +these cliffs the path bends somewhat to the south, keeping throughout to +the left bank of the valley, and at about 3500 feet above Val Tournanche, +and 1500 feet above Ceneil and a mile or so to its east, arrives at the +base of some moraines, which are remarkably large considering the +dimensions of the glaciers which formed them. The ranges upon the western +side of the Val Tournanche are seen to great advantage from this spot; and +here the path ends and the way steepens. + +When we arrived at these moraines, we had a choice of two routes. One, +continuing to the east, over the moraines themselves, the débris above +them, and a large snow-bed still higher up, to a kind of _col_ or +depression to the _south_ of the peak, from whence an easy ridge led +towards the summit. The other, over a shrunken glacier on our north-east +(now, perhaps, not in existence), which led to a well-marked _col_ on the +_north_ of the peak, from whence a less easy ridge rose directly to the +highest point. We followed the first named of these routes, and in little +more than half-an-hour stood upon the Col, which commanded a most glorious +view of the southern side of Monte Rosa, and of the ranges to its east, +and to the east of the Val d'Ayas. + +[Illustration: "THEY SCATTERED IN A PANIC WHEN SALUTED BY THE CRIES OF MY + EXCITED COMRADE."] + +Whilst we were resting at this point, a large party of vagrant chamois +arrived on the summit of the mountain from the northern side, some of +whom--by their statuesque position--seemed to appreciate the grand panorama +by which they were surrounded, while others amused themselves, like +two-legged tourists, in rolling stones over the cliffs. The clatter of +these falling fragments made us look up. The chamois were so numerous that +we could not count them, and clustered around the summit, totally unaware +of our presence. They scattered in a panic, as if a shell had burst +amongst them, when saluted by the cries of my excited comrade; and plunged +wildly down in several directions, with unfaltering and unerring bounds, +with such speed and with such grace that we were filled with admiration +and respect for their mountaineering abilities. + +The ridge that led from the Col towards the summit was singularly easy, +although well broken up by frost, and Carrel thought that it would not be +difficult to arrange a path for mules out of the shattered blocks; but +when we arrived on the summit we found ourselves separated from the very +highest point by a cleft which had been concealed up to that time: its +southern side was nearly perpendicular, but it was only fourteen or +fifteen feet deep. Carrel lowered me down, and afterwards descended on to +the head of my axe, and subsequently on to my shoulders, with a cleverness +which was almost as far removed from my awkwardness as his own efforts +were from those of the chamois. A few easy steps then placed us on the +highest point. It had not been ascended before, and we commemorated the +event by building a huge cairn, which was seen for many a mile, and would +have lasted for many a year, had it not been thrown down by the orders of +Canon Carrel, on account of its interrupting the sweep of a camera which +he took to the lower summit in 1868, in order to photograph the panorama. +According to that well-known mountaineer the summit of the Grand Tournalin +is 6100 feet above the village of Val Tournanche, and 11,155 feet above +the sea. Its ascent (including halts) occupied us only four hours. + + [Illustration: "CARREL LOWERED ME DOWN."] + +I recommend any person who has a day to spare in the Val Tournanche to +ascend the Tournalin. It should be remembered, however (if its ascent is +made for the sake of the view), that these southern Pennine Alps seldom +remain unclouded after mid-day, and, indeed, frequently not later than 10 +or 11 A.M. Towards sunset the equilibrium of the atmosphere is restored, +and the clouds very commonly disappear. + +I advise the ascent of this mountain not on account of its height, or from +its accessibility or inaccessibility, but simply for the wide and splendid +view which may be seen from its summit. Its position is superb, and the +list of the peaks which can be seen from it includes almost the whole of +the principal mountains of the Cottian, Dauphiné, Graian, Pennine, and +Oberland groups. The view has, in the highest perfection, those elements +of picturesqueness which are wanting in the purely panoramic views of +higher summits. There are three principal sections, each with a central or +dominating point, to which the eye is naturally drawn. All three alike are +pictures in themselves; yet all are dissimilar. In the south, softened by +the vapours of the Val d'Aoste, extends the long line of the Graians, with +mountain after mountain 12,000 feet and upwards in height. It is not upon +these, noble as some of them are, that the eye will rest, but upon the +Viso, far off in the background. In the west and towards the north the +range of Mont Blanc, and some of the greatest of the Central Pennine Alps +(including the Grand Combin and the Dent Blanche) form the background, but +they are overpowered by the grandeur of the ridges which culminate in the +Matterhorn. Nor in the east and north, where pleasant grassy slopes lead +downwards to the Val d'Ayas, nor upon the glaciers and snow-fields above +them, nor upon the Oberland in the background, will the eye long linger, +when immediately in front, several miles away, but seeming close at hand, +thrown out by the pure azure sky, there are the glittering crests of Monte +Rosa. + + [Illustration: THE LATE CANON CARREL, OF AOSTA.] + +Those who would, but cannot, stand upon the highest Alps, may console +themselves with the knowledge that they do not usually yield the views +that make the strongest and most permanent impressions. Marvellous some of +the panoramas seen from the greatest peaks undoubtedly are; but they are +necessarily without those isolated and central points which are so +valuable pictorially. The eye roams over a multitude of objects (each, +perhaps, grand individually), and, distracted by an embarrassment of +riches, wanders from one to another, erasing by the contemplation of the +next the effect that was produced by the last; and when those happy +moments are over, which always fly with too great rapidity, the summit is +left with an impression that is seldom durable, because it is usually +vague. + +No views create such lasting impressions as those which are seen but for a +moment, when a veil of mist is rent in twain, and a single spire or dome +is disclosed. The peaks which are seen at these moments are not, perhaps, +the greatest or the noblest, but the recollection of them outlives the +memory of any panoramic view, because the picture, photographed by the +eye, has time to dry, instead of being blurred, while yet wet, by contact +with other impressions. The reverse is the case with the bird's-eye +panoramic views from the great peaks, which sometimes embrace a hundred +miles in nearly every direction. The eye is confounded by the crowd of +details, and is unable to distinguish the relative importance of the +objects which are seen. It is almost as difficult to form a just estimate +(with the eye) of the respective heights of a number of peaks from a very +high summit, as it is from the bottom of a valley. I think that the +grandest and the most satisfactory standpoints for viewing mountain +scenery are those which are sufficiently elevated to give a feeling of +depth, as well as of height, which are lofty enough to exhibit wide and +varied views, but not so high as to sink everything to the level of the +spectator. The view from the Grand Tournalin is a favourable example of +this class of panoramic views. + +We descended from the summit by the northern route, and found it tolerably +stiff clambering as far as the Col. Thence, down the glacier, the way was +straightforward, and we joined the route taken on the ascent at the foot +of the ridge leading towards the east. In the evening we returned to +Breil. + +There is an abrupt rise in the valley about two miles to the north of the +village of Val Tournanche, and just above this step the torrent has eaten +its way into its bed and formed an extraordinary chasm, which has long +been known by the name Gouffre des Busserailles. We lingered about this +spot to listen to the thunder of the concealed water, and to watch its +tumultuous boiling as it issued from the gloomy cleft, but our efforts to +peer into the mysteries of the place were baffled. In November 1865, the +intrepid Carrel induced two trusty comrades--the Maquignaz's of Val +Tournanche--to lower him by a rope into the chasm and over the cataract. +The feat required iron nerves, and muscles and sinews of no ordinary kind; +and its performance alone stamps Carrel as a man of dauntless courage. One +of the Maquignaz's subsequently descended in the same way, and these two +men were so astonished at what they saw, that they forthwith set to work +with hammer and chisel to make a way into this romantic gulf. In a few +days they constructed a rough but convenient plank gallery into the centre +of the _gouffre_, along its walls; and, on payment of a toll of half a +franc, any one can now enter the Gouffre des Busserailles. + +I cannot, without a couple of sections and a plan, give an exact idea to +the reader of this remarkable place. It corresponds in some of its +features to the gorge figured upon page 96, but it exhibits in a much more +notable manner the characteristic action and extraordinary power of +running water. The length of the chasm or _gouffre_ is about 320 feet, and +from the top of its walls to the surface of the water is about 110 feet. +At no part can the entire length or depth be seen at a glance; for, +although the width at some places is 15 feet or more, the view is limited +by the sinuosities of the walls. These are everywhere polished to a +smooth, vitreous-in-appearance surface. In some places the torrent has +wormed into the rock, and has left natural bridges. The most extraordinary +features of the Gouffre des Busserailles, however, are the caverns (or +_marmites_ as they are termed), which the water has hollowed out of the +heart of the rock. Carrel's plank path leads into one of the greatest,--a +grotto that is about 28 feet across at its largest diameter, and 15 or 16 +feet high; roofed above by the living rock, and with the torrent roaring +50 feet or thereabouts below, at the bottom of a fissure. This cavern is +lighted by candles, and talking in it can only be managed by signs. + +I visited the interior of the _gouffre_ in 1869, and my wonder at its +caverns was increased by observing the hardness of the hornblende out of +which they have been hollowed. Carrel chiselled off a large piece, which +is now lying before me. It has a highly polished, glassy surface, and +might be mistaken, for a moment, for ice-polished rock. But the water has +found out the atoms which were least hard, and it is dotted all over by +minute depressions, much as the face of one is who has suffered from +smallpox. The edges of these little hollows are _rounded_, and the whole +surfaces of the depressions are polished nearly, or quite, as highly as +the general surface of the fragment. The water has eaten more deeply into +some veins of steatite than in other places, and the presence of the +steatite may possibly have had something to do with the formation of the +_gouffre_. + +I arrived at Breil again after an absence of six days, well satisfied with +my tour of the Matterhorn, which had been rendered very pleasant by the +willingness of my guides, and by the kindliness of the natives. Still, it +must be admitted that the inhabitants of the Val Tournanche are behind the +times. Their paths are as bad as, or worse than, they were in the time of +De Saussure, and their inns are much inferior to those on the Swiss side. +If it were otherwise there would be nothing to prevent the valley becoming +one of the most popular and frequented of all the valleys in the Alps. As +it is, tourists who enter it seem to think only about how soon they can +get out of it, and hence it is much less known than it deserves to be on +account of its natural attractions. + +I believe that the great hindrance to the improvement of the paths in the +Italian valleys generally is the wide-spread impression that the +innkeepers would alone directly benefit by any amelioration of their +condition. To a certain extent this view is correct; but inasmuch as the +prosperity of the natives is connected with that of the innkeepers, the +interests of both are pretty nearly identical. Until their paths are +rendered less rough and swampy, I think the Italians must submit to see +the golden harvest principally reaped in Switzerland and Savoy. At the +same time, let the innkeepers look to the commissariat. Their supplies are +not unfrequently deficient in quantity, and, according to my experience, +very often deplorable in quality. + +I will not venture to criticise in detail the dishes which are brought to +table, since I am profoundly ignorant of their constitution. It is +commonly said amongst Alpine tourists that goat flesh represents mutton, +and mule does service for beef and chamois. I reserve my own opinion upon +this point until it has been shown what becomes of all the dead mules. But +I may say, I hope, without wounding the susceptibilities of my +acquaintances among the Italian innkeepers, that it would tend to smoothen +their intercourse with their guests if requests for solid food were less +frequently regarded as criminal. The deprecating airs with which inquiries +for really substantial food are received always remind me of a Dauphiné +innkeeper, who remarked that he had heard a good many tourists travel in +Switzerland. "Yes," I answered, "there are a good many." "How many?" +"Well," I said, "I have seen a hundred or more sit down at a table +d'hôte." He lifted up his hands--"Why," said he, "they would want meat +every day!" "Yes, that is not improbable." "In that case," he replied, "_I +think we are better without them_." + + + + + + CHAPTER VI. + + + OUR SIXTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN.(81) + + + "But mighty Jove cuts short, with just disdain, + The long, long views of poor, designing man." + HOMER. + + +Carrel had _carte blanche_ in the matter of guides, and his choice fell +upon his relative Cæsar, Luc Meynet, and two others whose names I do not +know. These men were now brought together, and our preparations were +completed, as the weather was clearing up. + +We rested on Sunday, August 9, eagerly watching the lessening of the mists +around the great peak, and started just before dawn upon the 10th, on a +still and cloudless morning, which seemed to promise a happy termination +to our enterprise. + +By going always, though gently, we arrived upon the Col du Lion before +nine o'clock. Changes were apparent. Familiar ledges had vanished; the +platform, whereupon my tent had stood, looked very forlorn, its stones had +been scattered by wind and frost, and had half disappeared: and the summit +of the Col itself, which in 1862 had always been respectably broad, and +covered by snow, was now sharper than the ridge of any church roof, and +was hard ice. Already we had found that the bad weather of the past week +had done its work. The rocks for several hundred feet below the Col were +varnished with ice. Loose, incoherent snow covered the older and harder +beds below, and we nearly lost our leader through its treacherousness. He +stepped on some snow which seemed firm, and raised his axe to deliver a +swinging blow, but, just as it was highest, the crust of the slope upon +which he stood broke away, and poured down in serpentine streams, leaving +long, bare strips, which glittered in the sun, for they were glassy ice. +Carrel, with admirable readiness, flung himself back on to the rock off +which he had stepped, and was at once secured. He simply remarked, "It is +time we were tied up," and, after we had been tied up, he went to work +again as if nothing had happened.(82) + +We had abundant illustrations during the next two hours of the value of a +rope to climbers. We were tied up rather widely apart, and advanced, +generally, in pairs. Carrel, who led, was followed closely by another man, +who lent him a shoulder or placed an axe-head under his feet, when there +was need; and when this couple were well placed the second pair advanced, +in similar fashion,--the rope being drawn in by those above, and paid out +gradually by those below. The leading men again advanced, or the third +pair, and so on. This manner of progression was slow, but sure. One man +only moved at a time, and if he slipped (and we frequently did slip) he +could slide scarcely a foot without being checked by the others. The +certainty and safety of the method gave confidence to the one who was +moving, and not only nerved him to put out his powers to the utmost, but +sustained nerve in really difficult situations. For these rocks (which, it +has been already said, were easy enough under ordinary circumstances) were +now difficult in a high degree. The snow-water which had trickled down for +many days past in little streams, had taken, naturally, the very route by +which we wished to ascend; and, refrozen in the night, had glazed the +slabs over which we had to pass,--sometimes with a fine film of ice as thin +as a sheet of paper, and sometimes so thickly that we could almost cut +footsteps in it. The weather was superb, the men made light of the toil, +and shouted to rouse the echoes from the Dent d'Hérens. + +We went on gaily, passed the second tent platform, the Chimney, and the +other well-remembered points, and reckoned, confidently, on sleeping that +night upon the top of "the shoulder;" but, before we had well arrived at +the foot of the Great Tower, a sudden rush of cold air warned us to look +out. + +It was difficult to say where this air came from; it did not blow as a +wind, but descended rather as the water in a shower-bath! All was tranquil +again; the atmosphere _showed_ no signs of disturbance; there was a dead +calm, and not a speck of cloud to be seen anywhere. But we did not remain +very long in this state. The cold air came again, and this time it was +difficult to say where it did _not_ come from. We jammed down our hats as +it beat against the ridge, and screamed amongst the crags. Before we had +got to the foot of the Tower, mists had been formed above and below. They +appeared at first in small, isolated patches (in several places at the +same time), which danced and jerked and were torn into shreds by the wind, +but grew larger under the process. They were united together, and rent +again,--showing us the blue sky for a moment, and blotting it out the next; +and augmented incessantly, until the whole heavens were filled with +whirling, boiling clouds. Before we could take off our packs, and get +under any kind of shelter, a hurricane of snow burst upon us from the +east. It fell very heavily, and in a few minutes the ridge was covered by +it. "What shall we do?" I shouted to Carrel. "Monsieur," said he, "the +wind is bad; the weather has changed; we are heavily laden. Here is a fine +_gîte_; let us stop! If we go on we shall be half-frozen. That is _my_ +opinion." No one differed from him; so we fell to work to make a place for +the tent, and in a couple of hours completed the platform which we had +commenced in 1862. The clouds had blackened during that time, and we had +hardly finished our task before a thunderstorm broke upon us with +appalling fury. Forked lightning shot out at the turrets above, and at the +crags below. It was so close that we quailed at its darts. It seemed to +scorch us,--we were in the very focus of the storm. The thunder was +simultaneous with the flashes; short and sharp, and more like the noise of +a door that is violently slammed, multiplied a thousandfold, than any +noise to which I can compare it. + +When I say that the thunder was _simultaneous_ with the lightning, I speak +as an inexact person. My meaning is that the time which elapsed between +seeing the flash and hearing the report was inappreciable to me. I wish to +speak with all possible precision, and there are two points with regard to +this storm upon which I can speak with some accuracy. The first is in +regard to the distance of the lightning from our party. We _might_ have +been 1100 feet from it if a second of time had elapsed between seeing the +flashes and hearing the reports; and a second of time is not appreciated +by inexact persons. It was certain that we were sometimes less than that +distance from the lightning, because I saw it pass in front of well-known +points on the ridge, both above and below us, which were less (sometimes +considerably less) than a thousand feet distant. + +Secondly, in regard to the difficulty of distinguishing sounds which are +merely echoes from true thunder, or the noise which occurs simultaneously +with lightning. Arago entered into this subject at some length in his +_Meteorological Essays_, and seemed to doubt if it would ever be possible +to determine whether echoes are _always_ the cause of the rolling sounds +commonly called thunder.(83) I shall not attempt to show whether the +rolling sounds should ever, or never, be regarded as true thunder, but +only that during this storm upon the Matterhorn it was possible to +distinguish the sound of the thunder itself from the sounds (rolling and +otherwise) which were merely the echoes of the first, original sound. + +At the place where we were camped a remarkable echo could be heard (one so +remarkable that if it could be heard in this country it would draw crowds +for its own sake); I believe it came from the cliffs of the Dent d'Hérens. +It was a favourite amusement with us to shout to rouse this echo, which +repeated any sharp cry, in a very distinct manner, several times, after +the lapse of something like a dozen seconds. The thunderstorm lasted +nearly two hours, and raged at times with great fury; and the prolonged +rollings from the surrounding mountains, after one flash, had not usually +ceased before another set of echoes took up the discourse, and maintained +the reverberations without a break. Occasionally there was a pause, +interrupted presently by a single clap, the accompaniment of a single +discharge, and after such times I could recognise the echoes from the Dent +d'Hérens by their peculiar repetitions, and by the length of time which +had passed since the reports had occurred of which they were the echoes. + +If I had been unaware of the existence of this echo, I should have +supposed that the resounds were original reports of explosions which had +been unnoticed, since in intensity they were scarcely distinguishable from +the true thunder; which, during this storm, seemed to me, upon every +occasion, to consist of a single, harsh, instantaneous sound.(84) + +Or if, instead of being placed at a distance of less than a thousand feet +from the points of explosion (and consequently hearing the report almost +in the same moment as we saw the flash, and the rollings after a +considerable interval of time), we had been placed so that the original +report had fallen on our ears nearly at the same moment as the echoes, we +should probably have considered that the successive reports and rollings +of the echoes were reports of successive explosions occurring nearly at +the same moment, and that they were not echoes at all. + +This is the only time (out of many storms witnessed in the Alps) I have +obtained evidence that the rollings of thunder are actually echoes; and +that they are not, necessarily, the reports of a number of discharges over +a long line, occurring at varying distances from the spectator, and +consequently unable to arrive at his ear at the same moment, although they +follow each other so swiftly as to produce a sound more or less +continuous.(85) + +The wind during all this time seemed to blow tolerably consistently from +the east. It smote the tent so vehemently (notwithstanding it was partly +protected by rocks) that we had grave fears our refuge might be blown away +bodily, with ourselves inside; so, during some of the lulls, we issued out +and built a wall to windward. At half-past three the wind changed to the +north-west, and the clouds vanished. We immediately took the opportunity +to send down one of the porters (under protection of some of the others, a +little beyond the Col du Lion), as the tent would accommodate only five +persons. From this time to sunset the weather was variable. It was +sometimes blowing and snowing hard, and sometimes a dead calm. The bad +weather was evidently confined to the Mont Cervin, for when the clouds +lifted we could see everything that could be seen from our gîte. Monte +Viso, a hundred miles off, was clear, and the sun set gorgeously behind +the range of Mont Blanc. We passed the night comfortably--even +luxuriously--in our blanket-bags, but there was little chance of sleeping, +between the noise of the wind, of the thunder, and of the falling rocks. I +forgave the thunder for the sake of the lightning. A more splendid +spectacle than its illumination of the Matterhorn crags I do not expect to +see.(86) + +The greatest rock-falls always seemed to occur in the night, between +midnight and daybreak. This was noticeable on each of the seven nights +which I passed upon the south-west ridge, at heights varying from 11,800 +to 13,000 feet. + +I may be wrong in supposing that the falls in the night are greater than +those in the daytime, since sound is much more startling during darkness +than when the cause of its production is seen. Even a sigh may be terrible +in the stillness of the night. In the daytime one's attention is probably +divided between the sound and the motion of rocks which fall; or it may be +concentrated on other matters. But it is certain that the greatest of the +falls which happened during the night took place after midnight, and this +I connect with the fact that the maximum of cold during any twenty-four +hours very commonly occurs between midnight and dawn. + +We turned out at 3.30 A.M. on the 11th, and were dismayed to find that it +still continued to snow. At 9 A.M. it ceased to fall, and the sun showed +itself feebly, so we packed up our baggage, and set out to try to get upon +"the shoulder." We struggled upwards until eleven o'clock, and then it +commenced to snow again. We held a council; the opinions expressed at it +were unanimous against advancing, and I decided to retreat. For we had +risen less than 300 feet in the past two hours, and had not even arrived +at the rope which Tyndall's party left behind, attached to the rocks, in +1862. At the same rate of progression it would have taken us from four to +five hours to get upon "the shoulder." Not one of us cared to attempt to +do so under the existing circumstances; for besides having to move our own +weight, which was sufficiently troublesome at this part of the ridge, we +had to transport much heavy baggage, tent, blankets, and provisions, +ladder, and 450 feet of rope, besides many other smaller matters. These, +however, were not the most serious considerations. Supposing that we got +upon "the shoulder," we might find ourselves detained there several days, +unable either to go up or down.(87) I could not risk any such detention, +being under obligations to appear in London at the end of the week. + + [Illustration: THE CRAGS OF THE MATTERHORN, DURING THE STORM, MIDNIGHT, + AUG. 10, 1863.] + +We returned to Breil in the course of the afternoon. It was quite fine +there, and the tenants of the inn received our statements with evident +scepticism. They were astonished to learn that we had been exposed to a +snow-storm of twenty-six hours' duration. "Why," said Favre, the +innkeeper, "_we_ have had no snow; it has been fine all the time you have +been absent, and there has been only that small cloud upon the mountain." +Ah! that small cloud! None except those who have had experience of it can +tell what a formidable obstacle it is. + + [Illustration: MONSIEUR FAVRE.] + +Why is it that the Matterhorn is subject to these abominable variations of +weather? The ready answer is, "Oh, the mountain is so isolated; it +attracts the clouds." This is not a sufficient answer. Although the +mountain _is_ isolated, it is not so much more isolated than the +neighbouring peaks that it should gather clouds when none of the others do +so. It will not at all account for the cloud to which I refer, which is +not formed by an aggregation of smaller, stray clouds drawn together from +a distance (as scum collects round a log in the water), but is created +against the mountain itself, and springs into existence where no clouds +were seen before. It is formed and hangs chiefly against the southern +sides, and particularly against the south-eastern side. It frequently does +not envelop the summit, and rarely extends down to the Glacier du Lion, +and to the Glacier du Mont Cervin below. It forms in the finest weather; +on cloudless and windless days. + +I conceive that we should look to differences of temperature rather than +to the height or isolation of the mountain for an explanation. I am +inclined to attribute the disturbances which occur in the atmosphere of +the southern sides of the Matterhorn on fine days,(88) principally to the +fact that the mountain is a _rock_ mountain; that it receives a great +amount of heat,(89) and is not only warmer itself, but is surrounded by an +atmosphere of a higher temperature than such peaks as the Weisshorn and +the Lyskamm, which are eminently _snow_ mountains. + +In certain states of the atmosphere its temperature may be tolerably +uniform over wide areas and to great elevations. I have known the +thermometer to show 70° in the shade at the top of an Alpine peak more +than 13,000 feet high, and but a very few degrees higher 6000 or 7000 feet +lower. At other times, there will be a difference of forty or fifty +degrees (Faht.) between two stations, the higher not more than 6000 or +7000 feet above the lower. + +Provided that the temperature was uniform, or nearly so, on all sides of +the Matterhorn, and to a considerable distance above its summit, no clouds +would be likely to form upon it. But if the atmosphere immediately +surrounding it is warmer than the contiguous strata, a local "courant +ascendant" must necessarily be generated; and portions of the cooler +superincumbent (or circumjacent) air will naturally be attracted towards +the mountain, where they will speedily condense the moisture of the warm +air in contact with it. I cannot explain the downrushes of cold air which +occur on it, when all the rest of the neighbourhood appears to be +tranquil, in any other way. The clouds are produced by the contact of two +strata of air (of widely different temperatures) charged with invisible +moisture, as surely as certain colourless fluids produce a white, turbid +liquid, when mixed together. The order has been--wind of a low +temperature--mist--rain--snow or hail.(90) + +This opinion is borne out to some extent by the behaviour of the +neighbouring mountains. The Dom (14,935 feet) and the Dent Blanche +(14,318) have both of them large cliffs of bare rock upon their southern +sides, and against those cliffs clouds commonly form (during fine, still +weather) at the same time as the cloud on the Matterhorn; whilst the +Weisshorn (14,804) and the Lyskamm (14,889), (mountains of about the same +altitude, and which are in corresponding situations to the former pair) +usually remain perfectly clear. + + [Illustration: CROSSING THE CHANNEL.] + +I arrived at Chatillon at midnight on the 11th, defeated and disconsolate; +but, like a gambler who loses each throw, only the more eager to have +another try, to see if the luck would change: and returned to London ready +to devise fresh combinations, and to form new plans. + + + + + + CHAPTER VII. + + + FROM ST. MICHEL ON THE MONT CENIS ROAD BY THE COL DES AIGUILLES D'ARVE, + COL DE MARTIGNARE, AND THE BRÈCHE DE LA MEIJE TO LA BÉRARDE. + + + "The more to help the greater deed is done." + HOMER. + + +When we arrived upon the highest summit of Mont Pelvoux, in Dauphiné, in +1861, we saw, to our surprise and disappointment, that it was not the +culminating point of the district; and that another mountain--distant about +a couple of miles, and separated from us by an impassable gulf--claimed +that distinction. I was troubled in spirit about this mountain, and my +thoughts often reverted to the great wall-sided peak, second in apparent +inaccessibility only to the Matterhorn. It had, moreover, another claim to +attention--it was the highest mountain IN France. + +The year 1862 passed away without a chance of getting to it, and my +holiday was too brief in 1863 even to think about it; but in the following +year it was possible, and I resolved to set my mind at rest by completing +the task which had been left unfinished in 1861. + +In the meantime others had turned their attention to Dauphiné. First of +all (in 1862) came Mr. F. Tuckett--that mighty mountaineer, whose name is +known throughout the length and breadth of the Alps--with the guides Michel +Croz, Peter Perrn, and Bartolommeo Peyrotte, and great success attended +his arms. But Mr. Tuckett halted before the Pointe des Ecrins, and, +dismayed by its appearance, withdrew his forces to gather less dangerous +laurels elsewhere. + +His expedition, however, threw some light upon the Ecrins. He pointed out +the direction from which an attack was most likely to be successful, and +Mr. William Mathews and the Rev. T. G. Bonney (to whom he communicated the +result of his labours) attempted to execute the ascent, with the brothers +Michel and J. B. Croz, by following his indications. But they too were +defeated, as I shall relate more particularly presently. + + [Illustration: MICHEL-AUGUSTE CROZ (1865).] + +The guide Michel Croz had thus been engaged in both of these expeditions +in Dauphiné, and I naturally looked to him for assistance. Mr. Mathews (to +whom I applied for information) gave him a high character, and concluded +his reply to me by saying, "he was only happy when upwards of 10,000 feet +high." + +I know what my friend meant. Croz was happiest when he was employing his +powers to the utmost. Places where you and I would "toil and sweat, and +yet be freezing cold," were bagatelles to him, and it was only when he got +above the range of ordinary mortals, and was required to employ his +magnificent strength, and to draw upon his unsurpassed knowledge of ice +and snow, that he could be said to be really and truly happy. + +Of all the guides with whom I travelled, Michel Croz was the man who was +most after my own heart. He did not work like a blunt razor, and take to +his toil unkindly. He did not need urging, or to be told a second time to +do anything. You had but to say _what_ was to be done, and _how_ it was to +be done, and the work _was_ done, if it was possible. Such men are not +common, and when they are known they are valued. Michel was not widely +known, but those who did know him employed him again and again. The +inscription that is placed upon his tomb truthfully records that he was +"beloved by his comrades and esteemed by travellers." + +At the time that I was planning my journey, my friends Messrs. A. W. Moore +and Horace Walker were also drawing up their programme; and, as we found +that our wishes were very similar, we agreed to unite our respective +parties. The excursions which are described in this and the two following +chapters are mutual ideas which were jointly executed. + +Our united programme was framed so as to avoid sleeping in inns, and so +that we should see from the highest point attained on one day a +considerable portion of the route which was intended to be followed on the +next. This latter matter was an important one to us, as all of our +projected excursions were new ones, and led over ground about which there +was very little information in print. + +My friends had happily secured Christian Almer of Grindelwald as their +guide. The combination of Croz and Almer was a perfect one. Both men were +in the prime of life;(91) both were endued with strength and activity far +beyond the average; and the courage and the knowledge of each was alike +undoubted. The temper of Almer it was impossible to ruffle; he was ever +obliging and enduring,--a bold but a safe man. That which he lacked in +fire--in dash--was supplied by Croz, who, in his turn, was kept in place by +Almer. It is pleasant to remember how they worked together, and how each +one confided to you that he liked the other so much because he worked so +well; but it is sad, very sad, to those who have known the men, to know +that they can never work together again. + + + +We met at St. Michel on the Mont Cenis road, at midday on June 20, 1864, +and proceeded in the afternoon over the Col de Valloires to the village of +the same name. The summit of this pretty little pass is about 3500 feet +above St. Michel, and from it we had a fair view of the Aiguilles d'Arve, +a group of three peaks of singular form, which it was our especial object +to investigate.(92) They had been seen by ourselves and others from +numerous distant points, and always looked very high and very +inaccessible; but we had been unable to obtain any information about them, +except the few words in Joanne's _Itinéraire du Dauphiné_. Having made out +from the summit of the Col de Valloires that they could be approached from +the Valley of Valloires, we hastened down to find a place where we could +pass the night, as near as possible to the entrance of the little valley +leading up to them. + +By nightfall we arrived at the entrance to this little valley (Vallon des +Aiguilles d'Arve), and found some buildings placed just where they were +wanted. The proprietress received us with civility, and placed a large +barn at our disposal, on the conditions that no lights were struck or +pipes smoked therein; and when her terms were agreed to, she took us into +her own chalet, made up a huge fire, heated a gallon of milk, and treated +us with genuine hospitality. + +In the morning we found that the Vallon des Aiguilles d'Arve led away +nearly due west from the Valley of Valloires, and that the village of +Bonnenuit was placed (in the latter valley) almost exactly opposite to the +junction of the two. + +At 3.55 A.M. on the 21st we set out up the Vallon, passed for a time over +pasture-land, and then over a stony waste, deeply channelled by +watercourses. At 5.30 the two principal Aiguilles were well seen, and as, +by this time, it was evident that the authors of the Sardinian official +map had romanced as extensively in this neighbourhood as elsewhere, it was +necessary to hold a council. + + [Illustration: Plan to show route] + +Three questions were submitted to it:--Firstly, Which is the highest of +these Aiguilles? Secondly, Which shall we go up? Thirdly, How is it to be +done? + +The French engineers, it was said, had determined that the two highest of +them were respectively 11,513 and 11,529 feet in height; but we were +without information as to which two they had measured.(93) Joanne indeed +said (but without specifying whether he meant all three) that the +Aiguilles had been several times ascended, and particularly mentioned that +the one of 11,513 feet was "relatively easy." + +We therefore said, "We will go up the peak of 11,529 feet." That +determination did not settle the second question. Joanne's "relatively +easy" peak, according to his description, was evidently the most northern +of the three. _Our_ peak then was to be one of the other two;--but which of +them? We were inclined to favour the central one; but it was hard to +determine, they looked so equal in height. When, however, the council came +to study the third question--"How is it to be done?" it was unanimously +voted that upon the eastern and southern sides it was certainly +"relatively" difficult, and that a move should be made round to the +northern side. + +The movement was duly executed, and after wading up some snow-slopes of +considerable steepness (going occasionally beyond 40°), we found ourselves +in a gap or nick, between the central and northernmost Aiguille, at 8.45 +A.M. We then studied the northern face of our intended peak, and finally +arrived at the conclusion that it was "relatively" impracticable. Croz +shrugged his big shoulders, and said, "My faith! I think you will do well +to leave it to others." Almer was more explicit, and volunteered the +information that a thousand francs would not tempt him to _try_ it. We +then turned to the northernmost peak, but found its southern faces even +more hopeless than the northern faces of the central one. We enjoyed +accordingly the unwonted luxury of a three-hours' rest on the top of our +pass; for pass we were determined it should be. + +We might have done worse. We were 10,300 or 10,400 feet above the level of +the sea, and commanded a most picturesque view of the mountains of the +Tarentaise; while, somewhat east of south, we saw the monarch of the +Dauphiné _massif_, whose closer acquaintance it was our intention to make. +Three sunny hours passed away, and then we turned to the descent. We saw +the distant pastures of a valley (which we supposed was the Vallon or +Ravine de la Sausse), and a long snow-slope leading down to them. But from +that slope we were cut off by precipitous rocks, and our first impression +was that we should have to return in our track. Some running up and down, +however, discovered two little gullies, filled with threads of snow, and +down the most northern of these we decided to go. It was a steep way but a +safe one, for the cleft was so narrow that we could press the shoulder +against one side whilst the feet were against the other, and the last +remnant of the winter's snow, well hardened, clung to the rift with great +tenacity, and gave us a path when the rocks refused one. In half-an-hour +we got to the top of the great snow-slope. Walker said--"Let us glissade;" +the guides--"No, it is too steep." Our friend, however, started off at a +standing glissade, and advanced for a time very skilfully; but after a +while he lost his balance, and progressed downwards and backwards with +great rapidity, in a way that seemed to us very much like tumbling head +over heels. He let go his axe, and left it behind, but it overtook him and +batted him heartily. He and it travelled in this fashion for some hundreds +of feet, and at last subsided into the rocks at the bottom. In a few +moments we were reassured as to his safety, by hearing him ironically +request us not to keep him waiting down there. + +[Illustration: THE AIGUILLES D'ARVE, FROM ABOVE THE CHALETS OF RIEU BLANC, + SHOWING ROUTE.] + +We others followed the track shown by the dotted line upon the engraving +(making zigzags to avoid the little groups of rocks which jutted through +the snow, by which Walker had been upset), descended by a _sitting_ +glissade, and rejoined our friend at the bottom. We then turned sharply to +the left, and tramped down the summit ridge of an old moraine of great +size. Its mud was excessively hard, and where some large erratic blocks +lay perched upon its crest, we were obliged to cut steps (in the mud) with +our ice-axes. + +Guided by the sound of a distant "moo," we speedily found the highest +chalets in the valley, named Rieu Blanc. They were tenanted by three old +women (who seemed to belong to one of the missing links sought by +naturalists), destitute of all ideas except in regard to cows, and who +spoke a barbarous patois, well-nigh unintelligible to the Savoyard Croz. +They would not believe that we had passed between the Aiguilles,--"It is +impossible, the _cows_ never go there." "Could we get to La Grave over +yonder ridge?" "Oh yes! the _cows_ often crossed!" Could they show us the +way? No; but we could follow the _cow_-tracks. + +We stayed a while near these chalets, to examine the western sides of the +Aiguilles d'Arve, and, according to our united opinion, the central one +was as inaccessible from this direction as from the east, north, or south. +On the following day we saw them again, from a height of about 11,000 +feet, in a south-easterly direction, and our opinion remained unchanged. + +We saw (on June 20-22) the central Aiguille from all sides, and very +nearly completely round the southernmost one. The northern one we also saw +on all sides excepting from the north. (It is, however, precisely from +this direction M. Joanne says that its ascent is relatively easy.) We do +not, therefore, venture to express any opinion respecting its ascent, +except as regards its actual summit. This is formed of two curious prongs, +or pinnacles of rock, and we do not understand in what way they (or either +of them) can be ascended; nor shall we be surprised if this ascent is +discovered to have been made in spirit rather than body; in fact, in the +same manner as the celebrated ascent of Mont Blanc, "not entirely to the +summit, but as far as the Montanvert!" + +All three of the Aiguilles _may_ be accessible, but they _look_ as +inaccessible as anything I have seen. They are the highest summits between +the valleys of the Romanche and the Arc; they are placed slightly to the +north of the watershed between those two valleys, and a line drawn through +them runs, pretty nearly, north and south. + +We descended by a rough path from Rieu Blanc to the chalets of La Sausse, +which give the name to the Vallon or Ravine de la Sausse, in which they +are situated. This is one of the numerous branches of the valley that +descends to St. Jean d'Arve, and subsequently to St. Jean de Maurienne. + +Two passes, more or less known, lead from this valley to the village of La +Grave (on the Lautaret road) in the valley of the Romanche, viz.:--the Col +de l'Infernet and the Col de Martignare. The former pass was crossed, many +years ago, by J. D. Forbes, and was mentioned by him in his _Norway and +its Glaciers_. The latter one lies to the north of the former, and is +seldom traversed by tourists, but it was convenient for us, and we set out +to cross it on the morning of the 22d, after having passed a comfortable, +but not luxurious, night in the hay, at La Sausse, where, however, the +simplicity of the accommodation was more than counterbalanced by the +civility and hospitality of the people in charge.(94) + +[Our object now was to cross to La Grave (on the high road from Grenoble +to Briançon), and to ascend, _en route_, some point sufficiently high to +give us a good view of the Dauphiné Alps in general, and of the grand +chain of the Meije in particular. Before leaving England a careful study +of "Joanne" had elicited the fact that the shortest route from La Sausse +to La Grave was by the Col de Martignare; and also that from the aforesaid +Col it was possible to ascend a lofty summit, called by him the +Bec-du-Grenier, also called Aiguille de Goléon. On referring, however, to +the Sardinian survey, we found there depicted, to the east of the Col de +Martignare, not _one_ peak bearing the above _two_ names, but _two +distinct summits_; one--just above the Col--the Bec-du-Grenier (the height +of which was not stated); the other, still farther to the east, and +somewhat to the south of the watershed--the Aiguille du Goléon (11,250 +English feet in height), with a very considerable glacier--the Glacier +Lombard--between the two. On the French map,(95) on the other hand, neither +of the above names was to be found, but a peak called Aiguille de la +Sausse (10,897 feet), was placed in the position assigned to the +Bec-du-Grenier in the Sardinian map; while farther to the east was a +second and nameless peak (10,841), not at all in the position given to the +Aiguille du Goléon, of which and of the Glacier Lombard there was not a +sign. All this was very puzzling and unsatisfactory; but as we had no +doubt of being able to climb one of the points to the east of the Col de +Martignare (which overhung the Ravine de la Sausse), we determined to make +that col the basis of our operations.](96) + +We left the chalets at 4.15 A.M. [under a shower of good wishes from our +hostesses], proceeded at first towards the upper end of the ravine, then +doubled back up a long buttress which projects in an unusual way, and went +towards the Col de Martignare; but before arriving at its summit we again +doubled, and resumed the original course.(97) At 6 A.M. we stood on the +watershed, and followed it towards the east; keeping for some distance +strictly to the ridge, and afterwards diverging a little to the south to +avoid a considerable secondary aiguille, which prevented a straight track +being made to the summit at which we were aiming. At 9.15 we stood on its +top, and saw at once the lay of the land. + +We found that our peak was one of four which enclosed a plateau that was +filled by a glacier. Let us call these summits *A*, *B*, *C*, *D* (see +plan on p. 128). We stood upon *C*, which was almost exactly the same +elevation as *B*, but was higher than *D*, and lower than *A*. Peak *A* +was the highest of the four, and was about 200 feet higher than *B* and +*C*; we identified it as the Aiguille de Goléon (French survey, 11,250 +feet). Peak *D* we considered was the Bec-du-Grenier; and, in default of +other names, we called *B* and *C* the Aiguilles de la Sausse. The glacier +flowed in a south-easterly direction, and was the Glacier Lombard. + +Peaks *B* and *C* overhung the Ravine de la Sausse, and were connected +with another aiguille--*E*--which did the same. A continuation of the ridge +out of which these three aiguilles rose joined the Aiguilles d'Arve. The +head of the Ravine de la Sausse was therefore encircled by six peaks; +three of which it was convenient to term the Aiguilles de la Sausse, and +the others were the Aiguilles d'Arve. + +We were very fortunate in the selection of our summit. Not to speak of +other things, it gave a grand view of the ridge which culminates in the +peak called La Meije (13,080 feet), which used to be mentioned by +travellers under the name Aiguille du Midi de la Grave. The view of this +mountain from the village of La Grave itself can hardly be praised too +highly,--it is one of the very finest road-views in the Alps. The Ortler +Spitz from the Stelvio is, in fact, its only worthy competitor; and the +opinions generally of those who have seen the two views are in favour of +the former. But from La Grave one can no more appreciate the noble +proportions and the towering height of the Meije, than understand the +symmetry of the dome of St. Paul's by gazing upon it from the churchyard. +To see it fairly, one must be placed at a greater distance and at a +greater height. + +I shall not try to describe the Meije. The same words, and the same +phrases, have to do duty for one and another mountain; their repetition +becomes wearisome; and 'tis a discouraging fact that any description, +however true or however elaborated, seldom or never gives an idea of the +reality. + +Yet the Meije deserves more than a passing notice. It was the last great +Alpine peak which knew the foot of man, and one can scarcely speak in +exaggerated terms of its jagged ridges, torrential glaciers, and +tremendous precipices.(98) But were I to discourse upon these things +without the aid of pictures, or to endeavour to convey in _words_ a sense +of the loveliness of _curves_, of the beauty of _colour_, or of the +harmonies of _sound_, I should try to accomplish that which is impossible; +and, at the best, should succeed in but giving an impression that the +things spoken of may have been pleasant to hear or to behold, although +they are perfectly incomprehensible to read about. Let me therefore avoid +these things, not because I have no love for or thought of them, but +because they cannot be translated into language; and presently, when +topographical details must, of necessity, be returned to again, I will +endeavour to relieve the poverty of the pen by a free use of the pencil. + +Whilst we sat upon the Aiguille de la Sausse, our attention was +concentrated on a point that was immediately opposite--on a gap or cleft +between the Meije and the mountain called the Rateau. It was, indeed, in +order to have a good view of this place that we made the ascent of the +Aiguille. It (that is the gap itself) looked, as my companions remarked, +obtrusively and offensively a pass. It had not been crossed, but it ought +to have been; and this seemed to have been recognised by the natives, who +called it, very appropriately, the Brèche de la Meije. + +I had seen the place in 1860, and again in 1861, but had not then thought +about getting through it; and our information in respect to it was chiefly +derived from a photographic reproduction of the then unpublished sheet +189, of the great map of France, which Mr. Tuckett, with his usual +liberality, had placed at our disposal. It was evident from this map that +if we could succeed in passing the Brèche, we should make the most direct +route between the village of La Grave and that of Bérarde in the +Department of the Isère, and that the distance between these two places by +this route, would be less than one-third that of the ordinary way via the +villages of Freney and Venos. It may occur to some of my readers, why had +it not been done before? For the very sound reason that the valley on its +southern side (Vallon des Etançons) is uninhabited, and La Bérarde itself +is a miserable village, without interest, without commerce, and almost +without population. Why then did we wish to cross it? Because we were +bound to the Pointe des Ecrins, to which La Bérarde was the nearest +inhabited place. + +When we sat upon the Aiguille de la Sausse, we were rather despondent +about our prospects of crossing the Brèche, which seemed to present a +combination of all that was formidable. There was, evidently, but one way +by which it could be approached. We saw that at the top of the pass there +was a steep wall of snow or ice (so steep that it was most likely ice) +protected at its base by a big schrund or moat, which severed it from the +snow-fields below. Then (tracking our course downwards) we saw undulating +snow-fields leading down to a great glacier. The snow-fields would be easy +work, but the glacier was riven and broken in every direction; huge +crevasses seemed to extend entirely across it in some places, and +everywhere it had that strange twisted look, which tells of the unequal +motion of the ice. Where could we get on to it? At its base it came to a +violent end, being cut short by a cliff, over which it poured periodical +avalanches, as we saw by a great triangular bed of débris below. We could +not venture there,--the glacier must be taken in flank. But on which side? +Not on the west,--no one could climb those cliffs. It must, if any where, +be by the rocks on the east; and _they_ looked as if they were _roches +moutonnées_. + +So we hurried down to La Grave, to hear what Melchior Anderegg (who had +just passed through the village with the family of our friend Walker) had +to say on the matter. Who is Melchior Anderegg? Those who ask the question +cannot have been in Alpine Switzerland, where the name of Melchior is as +well known as the name of Napoleon. Melchior, too, is an Emperor in his +way--a very Prince among guides. His empire is amongst the "eternal +snows,"--his sceptre is an ice-axe. + +Melchior Anderegg, more familiarly, and perhaps more generally known +simply as Melchior, was born at Zaun, near Meiringen, on April 6, 1828. He +was first brought into public notice in Hinchcliff's _Summer Months in the +Alps_, and was known to very few persons at the time that little work was +published. In 1855 he was "Boots" at the Grimsel Hotel, and in those days, +when he went out on expeditions, it was for the benefit of his master, the +proprietor; Melchior himself only got the _trinkgelt_. In 1856 he migrated +to the Schwarenbach Inn on the Gemmi, where he employed his time in +carving objects for sale. In 1858 he made numerous expeditions with +Messrs. Hinchcliff and Stephen, and proved to his employers that he +possessed first-rate skill, indomitable courage, and an admirable +character. His position has never been doubtful since that year, and for a +long time there has been no guide whose services have been more in +request: he is usually engaged a year in advance. + +It would be almost an easier task to say what he has not done than to +catalogue his achievements. Invariable success attends his arms; he leads +his followers to victory, but not to death. I believe that no serious +accident has ever befallen travellers in his charge. Like his friend +Almer, he can be called a _safe_ man. It is the highest praise that can be +given to a first-rate guide. + + [Illustration: MELCHIOR ANDEREGG IN 1864.] + +Early in the afternoon we found ourselves in the little inn at La Grave, +on the great Lautaret road, a rickety, tumble-down sort of place, with +nothing stable about it, as Moore wittily remarked, except the smell.(99) +Melchior had gone, and had left behind a note which said, "I think the +passage of the Brèche is possible, but that it will be very difficult." +His opinion coincided with ours, and we went to sleep, expecting to be +afoot about eighteen or twenty hours on the morrow. + +At 2.40 the next morning we left La Grave, in a few minutes crossed the +Romanche, and at 4 A.M. got to the moraine of the eastern branch of the +glacier that descends from the Brèche.(100) The rocks by which we intended +to ascend were placed between the two branches of this glacier, and still +looked smooth and unbroken. By 5 o'clock we were upon them, and saw that +we had been deluded by them. No carpenter could have planned a more +convenient staircase. They were _not moutonnée_, their smooth look from a +distance was only owing to their singular firmness. [It was really quite a +pleasure to scale such delightful rocks. We felt the stone held the boot +so well, that, without making a positive effort to do so, it would be +almost impossible to slip.] In an hour we had risen above the most +crevassed portion of the glacier, and began to look for a way on to it. +Just at the right place there was a patch of old snow at the side, and, +instead of gaining the ice by desperate acrobatic feats, we passed from +the rocks on to it as easily as one walks across a gangway. At half-past 6 +we were on the centre of the glacier, and the inhabitants of La Grave +turned out _en masse_ into the road, and watched us with amazement as they +witnessed the falsification of their confident predictions. Well might +they stare, for our little caravan, looking to them like a train of flies +on a wall, crept up and up, without hesitation and without a halt--lost to +their sight one minute as it dived into a crevasse, then seen again +clambering up the other side. The higher we rose the easier became the +work, the angles lessened, and our pace increased. The snow remained +shadowed, and we walked as easily as on a high road; and when (at 7.45) +the summit of the Brèche was seen, we rushed at it as furiously as if it +had been a breach in the wall of a fortress, carried the moat by a dash, +with a push behind and a pull before, stormed the steep slope above, and +at 8.50 stood in the little gap, 11,054 feet above the level of the sea. +The Brèche was won. Well might they stare; five hours and a quarter had +sufficed for 6500 feet of ascent.(101) We screamed triumphantly as they +turned in to breakfast. + + [Illustration: Map of the Brèche de la Meije, etc.] + +All mountaineers know how valuable it is to study beforehand an intended +route over new ground from a height at some distance. None but blunderers +fail to do so, if it is possible; and one cannot do so too thoroughly. As +a rule, the closer one approaches underneath a summit, the more difficult +it is to pick out a path with judgment. Inferior peaks seem unduly +important, subordinate ridges are exalted, and slopes conceal points +beyond; and if one blindly undertakes an ascent, without having acquired a +tolerable notion of the relative importance of the parts, and of their +positions to one another, it will be miraculous if great difficulties are +not encountered. + +But although the examination of an intended route from a height at a +distance will tell one (who knows the meaning of the things he is looking +at) a good deal, and will enable him to steer clear of many difficulties +against which he might otherwise blindly run, it will seldom allow one to +pronounce positively upon the practicability or impracticability of the +whole of the route. No living man, for example, can pronounce positively +from a distance in regard to rocks. Those just mentioned are an +illustration of this. Three of the ablest and most experienced guides +concurred in thinking that they would be found very difficult, and yet +they presented no difficulty whatever. In truth, the sounder and less +broken up are the rocks, the more impracticable do they usually look from +a distance; while soft and easily rent rocks, which are often amongst the +most difficult and perilous to climb, very frequently look from afar as if +they might be traversed by a child. + +It is possible to decide with greater certainty in regard to the +practicability of glaciers. When one is seen to have few open crevasses +(and this may be told from a great distance), then we know that it is +_possible_ to traverse it; but to what extent it, or a glacier that is +much broken up by crevasses, will be troublesome, will depend upon the +width and length of the crevasses, and upon the angles of the surface of +the glacier itself. A glacier may be greatly crevassed, but the fissures +may be so narrow that there is no occasion to deviate from a straight line +when passing across them; or a glacier may have few open crevasses, and +yet may be practically impassable on account of the steepness of the +angles of its surface. Nominally, a man with an axe can go anywhere upon a +glacier, but in practice it is found that to move freely upon ice one must +have to deal only with small angles. It is thus necessary to know +approximately the angles of the surfaces of a glacier before it is +possible to determine whether it will afford easy travelling, or will be +so difficult as to be (for all practical purposes) impassable. This cannot +be told by looking at glaciers in full face from a distance; they must be +seen in profile; and it is often desirable to examine them both from the +front and in profile,--to do the first to study the direction of the +crevasses, to note where they are most and least numerous; and the second +to see whether its angles are moderate or great. Should they be very +steep, it may be better to avoid them altogether, and to mount even by +difficult rocks; but upon glaciers of _gentle_ inclination, and with few +open crevasses, better progress can always be made than upon the _easiest_ +rocks. + +So much to explain why we were deceived when looking at the Brèche de la +Meije from the Aiguille de la Sausse. We took note of all the +difficulties, but did not pay sufficient attention to the distance that +the Brèche was south of La Grave. My meaning will be apparent from the +accompanying diagram, Fig. 1 (constructed upon the data supplied by the +French surveyors), which will also serve to illustrate how badly angles of +elevation are judged by the unaided eye. + + [Illustration: Diagram to show angle of summit of Meije, etc.] + +The village of La Grave is just 5000 feet, and the highest summit of the +Meije is 13,080 feet above the level of the sea. There is therefore a +difference in their levels of 8080 feet. But the summit of the Meije is +south of La Grave about 14,750 feet, and, consequently, a line drawn from +La Grave to the summit of the Meije is no steeper than the dotted line +drawn from *A* to *C*, Fig. 1; or, in other words, if one could go in a +direct line from La Grave to the summit of the Meije the ascent would be +at an angle of less than 30°. Nine persons out of ten would probably +estimate the angle on the spot at double this amount.(102) + +The Brèche is 2000 feet below the summit of the Meije, and only 6000 feet +above La Grave. A direct ascent from the village to the Brèche would +consequently be at an angle of not much more than 20°. But it is not +possible to make the ascent as the crow flies; it has to be made by an +indirect and much longer route. Our track was probably double the length +of a direct line between the two places. Doubling the length halved the +angles, and we therefore arrive at the somewhat amazing conclusion, that +upon this, one of the steepest passes in the Alps, the mean of all the +angles upon the ascent could not have been greater than 11° or 12°. Of +course, in some places, the angles were much steeper, and in others less, +but the _mean_ of the whole could not have passed the angle above +indicated. + +[Illustration: THE VALLON DES ETANÇONS (LOOKING TOWARDS LA BÉRARDE).(103)] + +We did not trouble ourselves much with these matters when we sat on the +top of the Brèche. Our day's work was as good as over (for we knew from +Messrs. Mathews and Bonney that there was no difficulty upon the other +side), and we abandoned ourselves to ease and luxury; wondering, +alternately, as we gazed upon the Rateau and the Ecrins, how the one +mountain could possibly hold itself together, and whether the other would +hold out against us. The former looked [so rotten that it seemed as if a +puff of wind or a clap of thunder might dash the whole fabric to pieces]; +while the latter asserted itself the monarch of the group, and towered +head and shoulders above all the rest of the peaks which form the great +horse-shoe of Dauphiné. At length a cruel rush of cold air made us shiver, +and shift our quarters to a little grassy plot, 3000 feet below--an oasis +in a desert--where we lay nearly four hours admiring the splendid wall of +the Meije.(104) Then we tramped down the Vallon des Etançons, a howling +wilderness, the abomination of desolation; destitute alike of animal or +vegetable life; pathless, of course; suggestive of chaos, but of little +else; covered almost throughout its entire length with débris from the +size of a walnut up to that of a house; in a word, it looked as if +half-a-dozen moraines of first-rate dimensions had been carted and shot +into it. Our tempers were soured by constant pitfalls [it was impossible +to take the eyes from the feet, and if an unlucky individual so much as +blew his nose, without standing still to perform the operation, the result +was either an instantaneous tumble, or a barked shin, or a half-twisted +ankle. There was no end to it, and we became more savage at every step, +unanimously agreeing that no power on earth would ever induce us to walk +up or down this particular valley again.] It was not just to the valley, +which was enclosed by noble mountains,--unknown, it is true, but worthy of +a great reputation, and which, if placed in other districts, would be +sought after, and cited as types of daring form and graceful outline.(105) + + + + + + CHAPTER VIII + + + THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE POINTE DES ECRINS. + + + "Filled with high mountains, rearing their heads as if to reach + to heaven, crowned with glaciers, and fissured with immense + chasms, where lie the eternal snows guarded by bare and rugged + cliffs; offering the most varied sights, and enjoying all + temperatures; and containing everything that is most curious and + interesting, the most simple and the most sublime, the most + smiling and the most severe, the most beautiful and the most + awful; such is the department of the High Alps." + LADOUCETTE. + + +Before 5 o'clock on the afternoon of June 23, we were trotting down the +steep path that leads into La Bérarde. We put up, of course, with the +chasseur-guide Rodier (who, as usual, was smooth and smiling), and, after +congratulations were over, we returned to the exterior to watch for the +arrival of one Alexander Pic, who had been sent overnight with our baggage +_viâ_ Freney and Venos. But when the night fell, and no Pic appeared, we +saw that our plans must be modified; for he was necessary to our very +existence--he carried our food, our tobacco, our all. So, after some +discussion, it was agreed that a portion of our programme should be +abandoned, that the night of the 24th should be passed at the head of the +Glacier de la Bonne Pierre, and that, on the 25th, a push should be made +for the summit of the Ecrins. We then went to straw. + +Our porter Pic strolled in next morning with a very jaunty air, and we +seized upon our tooth-brushes; but, upon looking for the cigars, we found +starvation staring us in the face. "Hullo! Monsieur Pic, where are our +cigars?" "Gentlemen," he began, "I am desolated!" and then, quite pat, he +told a long rigmarole about a fit on the road, of brigands, thieves, of +their ransacking the knapsacks when he was insensible, and of finding them +gone when he revived! "Ah! Monsieur Pic, we see what it is, you have +smoked them yourself!" "Gentlemen, I never smoke, _never_!" Whereupon we +inquired secretly if he was known to smoke, and found that he was. +However, he said that he had never spoken truer words, and perhaps he had +not, for he is reported to be the greatest liar in Dauphiné! + + [Illustration: Map of the central Dauphiné Alps] + +We were now able to start, and set out at 1.15 P.M. to bivouac upon the +Glacier de la Bonne Pierre, accompanied by Rodier, who staggered under a +load of blankets. Many slopes had to be mounted, and many torrents to be +crossed, all of which has been described by Mr. Tuckett.(106) We, however, +avoided the difficulties he experienced with the latter by crossing them +high up, where they were subdivided. But when we got on to the moraine on +the right bank of the glacier (or, properly speaking, on to one of the +moraines, for there are several), mists descended, to our great hindrance; +and it was 5.30 before we arrived on the spot at which it was intended to +camp. + +Each one selected his nook, and we then joined round a grand fire made by +our men. Fortnum and Mason's portable soup was sliced up and brewed, and +was excellent; but it should be said that before it _was_ excellent, three +times the quantity named in the directions had to be used. Art is required +in drinking as in making this soup, and one point is this--always let your +friends drink first; not only because it is more polite, but because the +soup has a tendency to burn the mouth if taken too hot, and one drink of +the bottom is worth two of the top, as all the goodness settles. + +[While engaged in these operations, the mist that enveloped the glacier +and surrounding peaks was becoming thinner; little bits of blue sky +appeared here and there, until suddenly, when we were looking towards the +head of the glacier, far, far above us, at an almost inconceivable height, +in a tiny patch of blue, appeared a wonderful rocky pinnacle, bathed in +the beams of the fast-sinking sun. We were so electrified by the glory of +the sight that it was some seconds before we realised what we saw, and +understood that that astounding point, removed apparently miles from the +earth, was one of the highest summits of Les Ecrins; and that we hoped, +before another sun had set, to have stood upon an even loftier pinnacle. +The mists rose and fell, presenting us with a series of dissolving views +of ravishing grandeur, and finally died away, leaving the glacier and its +mighty bounding precipices under an exquisite pale blue sky, free from a +single speck of cloud.] + +The night passed over without anything worth mention, but we had had +occasion to observe in the morning an instance of the curious evaporation +that is frequently noticeable in the High Alps. On the previous night we +had hung up on a knob of rock our mackintosh bag containing five bottles +of Rodier's bad wine. In the morning, although the stopper appeared to +have been in all night, about four-fifths had evaporated. It was strange; +my friends had not taken any, neither had I, and the guides each declared +that they had not seen any one touch it. In fact it was clear that there +was no explanation of the phenomenon, but in the dryness of the air. Still +it is remarkable that the dryness of the air (or the evaporation of wine) +is always greatest when a stranger is in one's party--the dryness caused by +the presence of even a single Chamounix porter is sometimes so great, that +not four-fifths but the entire quantity disappears. For a time I found +difficulty in combating this phenomenon, but at last discovered that if I +used the wine-flask as a pillow during the night, the evaporation was +completely stopped. + +At 4 A.M. we moved off across the glacier in single file towards the foot +of a great gully, which led from the upper slopes of the glacier de la +Bonne Pierre, to the lowest point in the ridge that runs from the Ecrins +to the mountain called Roche Faurio,--cheered by Rodier, who now returned +with his wraps to La Bérarde. This gully (or _couloir_) was discovered and +descended by Mr. Tuckett, and we will now return for a minute to the +explorations of that accomplished mountaineer. + +In the year 1862 he had the good fortune to obtain from the _Dépôt de la +Guerre_ at Paris, a MS. copy of the then unpublished sheet 189 of the map +of France, and with it in hand, he swept backwards and forwards across the +central Dauphiné Alps, untroubled by the doubts as to the identity of +peaks, which had perplexed Mr. Macdonald and myself in 1861; and, +enlightened by it, he was able to point out (which he did in the fairest +manner) that we had confounded the Ecrins with another mountain--the Pic +Sans Nom. We made this blunder through imperfect knowledge of the district +and inaccurate reports of the natives;--but it was not an extraordinary one +(the two mountains are not unlike each other), considering the difficulty +that there is in obtaining from any except the very highest summits a +complete view of this intricate group. + +The situations of the principal summits can be perceived at a glance on +the accompanying map, which is a reproduction of a portion of sheet 189. +The main ridge of the chain runs, at this part, nearly north and south. +Roche Faurio, at the northern extreme, is 3716 mètres, or 12,192 feet, +above the level of the sea. The lowest point between that mountain and the +Ecrins (the Col des Ecrins) is 11,000 feet. The ridge again rises, and +passes 13,000 feet in the neighbourhood of the Ecrins. The highest summit +of that mountain (13,462 feet) is, however, placed a little to the east of +and off the main ridge. It then again falls, and in the vicinity of the +Col de la Tempe it is, perhaps, below 11,000 feet; but immediately to the +south of the summit of that pass, there is upon the ridge a point which +has been determined by the French surveyors to be 12,323 feet. This peak +is without a name. The ridge continues to gain height as we come to the +south, and culminates in the mountain which the French surveyors have +called Sommet de l'Aile Froide. On the spot it is called, very commonly, +the Aléfroide. + +There is some uncertainty respecting the elevation of this mountain. The +Frenchmen give 3925 mètres (12,878) as its highest point, but Mr. Tuckett, +who took a good theodolite to the top of Mont Pelvoux (which he agreed +with his predecessors had an elevation of 12,973 feet), found that the +summit of the Aléfroide was elevated above his station 4{~PRIME~}; and as the +distance between the two points was 12,467 feet, this would represent a +difference in altitude of 5 mètres in favour of the Aléfroide. I saw this +mountain from the summit of Mont Pelvoux in 1861, and was in doubt as to +which of the two was the higher, and in 1864, from the summit of the +Pointe des Ecrins (as will presently be related), it looked actually +higher than Mont Pelvoux. I have therefore little doubt but that Mr. +Tuckett is right in believing the Aléfroide to have an elevation of about +13,000 feet, instead of 12,878, as determined by the French surveyors. + +Mont Pelvoux is to the east of the Aléfroide and off the main ridge, and +the Pic Sans Nom (12,845 feet) is placed between these two mountains. The +latter is one of the grandest of the Dauphiné peaks, but it is shut in by +the other mountains, and is seldom seen except from a distance, and then +is usually confounded with the neighbouring summits. Its name has been +accidentally omitted on the map, but its situation is represented by the +large patch of rocks, nearly surrounded by glaciers, that is seen between +the words Ailefroide and Mt. Pelvoux. + +The lowest depression on the main ridge to the south of the Aléfroide is +the Col du Selé, and this, according to Mr. Tuckett, is 10,834 feet. The +ridge soon rises again, and, a little farther to the south, joins another +ridge running nearly east and west. To a mountain at the junction of these +two ridges the Frenchmen have given the singular name Crête des Boeufs +Rouges! The highest point hereabouts is 11,332 feet; and a little to the +west there is another peak (Mont Bans) of 11,979 feet. The main ridge runs +from this last-named point, in a north-westerly direction, to the Cols de +Says, both of which exceed 10,000 feet. + +It will thus be seen that the general elevation of this main ridge is +almost equal to that of the range of Mont Blanc, or of the central Pennine +Alps; and if we were to follow it out more completely, or to follow the +other ridges surrounding or radiating from it, we should find that there +is a remarkable absence, throughout the entire district, of low gaps and +depressions, and that there are an extraordinary number of peaks of medium +elevation.(107) The difficulty which explorers have experienced in +Dauphiné in identifying peaks, has very much arisen from the elevation of +the ridges generally being more uniform than is commonly found in the +Alps, and the consequent facile concealment of one point by another. The +difficulty has been enhanced by the narrowness and erratic courses of the +valleys. + +The possession of the "advanced copy" of sheet 189 of the French map, +enabled Mr. Tuckett to grasp most of what I have just said, and much more; +and he added, in 1862, three interesting passes across this part of the +chain to those already known. The first, from Ville Vallouise to La +Bérarde, _viâ_ the village of Claux, and the glaciers du Selé and de la +Pilatte,--this he called the Col du Selé; the second, between Ville +Vallouise and Villar d'Arène (on the Lautaret road) _viâ_ Claux and the +glaciers Blanc and d'Arsine,--the Col du Glacier Blanc; and the third, from +Vallouise to La Bérarde, _viâ_ the Glacier Blanc, the Glacier de l'Encula, +and the Glacier de la Bonne Pierre, the Col des Ecrins. + +This last pass was discovered accidentally. Mr. Tuckett set out intending +to endeavour to ascend the Pointe des Ecrins, but circumstances were +against him, as he relates in the following words:--"Arrived on the +plateau" (of the Glacier de l'Encula), "a most striking view of the Ecrins +burst upon us, and a hasty inspection encouraged us to hope that its +ascent would be practicable. On the sides of La Bérarde and the Glacier +Noir it presents, as has been already stated, the most precipitous and +inaccessible faces that can well be conceived; but in the direction of the +Glacier de l'Encula, as the upper plateau of the Glacier Blanc is named on +the French map, the slopes are less rapid, and immense masses of _névé_ +and _séracs_ cover it nearly to the summit." + +"The snow was in very bad order, and as we sank at each step above the +knee, it soon became evident that our prospects of success were extremely +doubtful. A nearer approach, too, disclosed traces of fresh avalanches, +and after much deliberation and a careful examination through the +telescope, it was decided that the chances in our favour were too small to +render it desirable to waste time in the attempt.... I examined the map, +from which I perceived that the glacier seen through the gap" (in the +ridge running from Roche Faurio to the Ecrins) "to the west, at a great +depth below, must be that of La Bonne Pierre; and if a descent to its head +was practicable, a passage might probably be effected to La Bérarde. On +suggesting to Croz and Perrn that, though baffled by the state of the snow +on the Ecrins, we might still achieve something of interest and importance +by discovering a new col, they both heartily assented, and in a few +minutes Perrn was over the edge, and cutting his way down the rather +formidable _couloir_," etc. etc.(108) + +This was the couloir at the foot of which we found ourselves at daybreak +on the 25th of June 1864; but before commencing the relation of our doings +upon that eventful day, I must recount the experiences of Messrs. Mathews +and Bonney in 1862. + +These gentlemen, with the two Croz's, attempted the ascent of the Ecrins a +few weeks after Mr. Tuckett had inspected the mountain. On August 26, says +Mr. Bonney, "we pushed on, and our hopes each moment rose higher and +higher; even the cautious Michel committed himself so far as to cry, 'Ah, +malheureux Ecrins, vous serez bientôt morts,' as we addressed ourselves to +the last slope leading up to the foot of the final cone. The old proverb +about 'many a slip' was, however, to prove true on this occasion. Arrived +at the top of this slope, we found that we were cut off from the peak by a +formidable bergschrund, crossed by the rottenest of snow-bridges. We +looked to the right and to the left, to see whether it would be possible +to get on either arête at its extremity; but instead of rising directly +from the snow as they appeared to do from below, they were terminated by a +wall of rock some forty feet high. There was but one place where the +bergschrund was narrow enough to admit of crossing, and there a cliff of +ice had to be climbed, and then a path to be cut up a steep slope of snow, +before the arête could be reached. At last, after searching in vain for +some time, Michel bade us wait a little, and started off to explore the +gap separating the highest peak from the snow-dome on the right, and see +if it were possible to ascend the rocky wall. Presently he appeared, +evidently climbing with difficulty, and at last stood on the arête itself. +Again we thought the victory was won, and started off to follow him. +Suddenly he called to us to halt, and turned to descend. In a few minutes +he stopped. After a long pause he shouted to his brother, saying that he +was not able to return by the way he had ascended. Jean was evidently +uneasy about him, and for some time we watched him with much anxiety. At +length he began to hew out steps in the snow along the face of the peak +towards us. Jean now left us, and, making for the ice-cliff mentioned +above, chopped away until, after about a quarter of an hour's labour, he +contrived, somehow or other, to worm himself up it, and began to cut steps +to meet his brother. Almost every step appeared to be cut right through +the snowy crust into the hard ice below, and an incipient stream of snow +came hissing down the sides of the peak as they dug it away with their +axes. Michel could not have been much more than 100 yards from us, and yet +it was full three quarters of an hour before the brothers met. This done, +they descended carefully, burying their axe-heads deep in the snow at +every step. + +"Michel's account was that he had reached the arête with great difficulty, +and saw that it was practicable for some distance, in fact, as far as he +could see; but that the snow was in a most dangerous condition, being very +incoherent and resting on hard ice; that when he began to descend in order +to tell us this, he found the rocks so smooth and slippery that return was +impossible; and that for some little time he feared that he should not be +able to extricate himself, and was in considerable danger. Of course the +arête could have been reached by the way our guides had descended, but it +was so evident that their judgment was against proceeding, that we did not +feel justified in urging them on. We had seen so much of them that we felt +sure they would never hang back unless there was real danger, and so we +gave the word for retreating."(109) + +On both of these expeditions there was fine weather and plenty of time. On +each occasion the parties slept out at, and started from, a considerable +elevation, and arrived at the base of the final peak of the Ecrins early +in the day, and with plenty of superfluous energy. Guides and travellers +alike, on each occasion, were exceptional men, experienced mountaineers, +who had proved their skill and courage on numerous antecedent occasions, +and who were not accustomed to turn away from a thing merely because it +was difficult. On each occasion the attempts were abandoned because the +state of the snow on and below the final peak was such that avalanches +were anticipated; and, according to the judgment of those who were +concerned, there was such an amount of positive danger from this condition +of things, that it was unjustifiable to persevere. + +We learnt privately, from Messrs. Mathews, Bonney, and Tuckett, that +unless the snow was in a good state upon the final peak (that is to say, +coherent and stable), we should probably be of the same opinion as +themselves; and that, although the face of the mountain fronting the +Glacier de l'Encula was much less steep than its other faces, and was +apparently the _only_ side upon which an attempt was at all likely to be +successful, it was, nevertheless, so steep, that for several days, at +least, after a fall of snow upon it, the chances in favour of avalanches +would be considerable. + +The reader need scarcely be told, after all that has been said about the +variableness of weather in the High Alps, the chance was small indeed that +we should find upon the 25th of June, or any other set day, the precise +condition of affairs that was deemed indispensable for success. We had +such confidence in the judgment of our friends, that it was understood +amongst us the ascent should be abandoned, unless the conditions were +manifestly favourable. + + [Illustration: The Pointe des Ecrins from the Col du Galibier] + +By five minutes to six we were at the top of the gully (a first-rate +couloir, about 1000 feet high), and within sight of our work. Hard, thin, +and wedge-like as the Ecrins had looked from afar, it had never looked so +hard and so thin as it did when we emerged from the top of the couloir +through the gap in the ridge. No tender shadows spoke of broad and rounded +ridges, but sharp and shadowless its serrated edges stood out against the +clear sky.(110) It had been said that the route must be taken by one of +the ridges of the final peak, but both were alike repellent, hacked and +notched in numberless places. They reminded me of my failure on the Dent +d'Hérens in 1863, and of a place on a similar ridge, from which advance or +retreat was alike difficult. But, presuming one or other of these ridges +or arêtes was practicable, there remained the task of getting to them, for +completely round the base of the final peak swept an enormous bergschrund, +almost separating it from the slopes which lay beneath. It was evident +thus early that the ascent would not be accomplished without exertion, and +that it would demand all our faculties and all our time. In more than one +respect we were favoured. The mists were gone, the day was bright and +perfectly calm; there had been a long stretch of fine weather beforehand, +and the snow was in excellent order; and, most important of all, the last +new snow which had fallen on the final peak, unable to support itself, had +broken away and rolled in a mighty avalanche, over schrund, névé, séracs, +over hills and valleys in the glacier (levelling one and filling the +other), completely down to the summit of the Col des Ecrins, where it lay +in huge jammed masses, powerless to harm us; and had made a broad track, +almost a road, over which, for part of the way at least, we might advance +with rapidity. + +We took in all this in a few minutes, and seeing there was no time to be +lost, despatched a hasty meal, left knapsacks, provisions, and all +incumbrances by the Col, started again at half-past six, and made direct +for the left side of the schrund, for it was there alone that a passage +was practicable. We crossed it at 8.10. Our route can now be followed upon +the annexed outline. The arrow marked *D* points out the direction of the +Glacier de la Bonne Pierre. The ridge in front, that extends right across, +is the ridge that is partially shown on the top of the map at p. 146, +leading from Roche Faurio towards the W.N.W. We arrived upon the plateau +of the Glacier de l'Encula, behind this ridge, from the direction of *D*, +and then made a nearly straight track to the left hand of the bergschrund +at *A*. + + [Illustration: Outline to show route up Pointe des Ecrins] + +Thus far there was no trouble, but the nature of the work changed +immediately. If we regard the upper 700 feet alone of the final peak of +the Ecrins, it may be described as a three-sided pyramid. One face is +towards the Glacier Noir, and forms one of the sheerest precipices in the +Alps. Another is towards the Glacier du Vallon, and is less steep, and +less uniform in angle than the first. The third is towards the Glacier de +l'Encula, and it was by this one we approached the summit. Imagine a +triangular plane, 700 or 800 feet high, set at an angle exceeding 50°; let +it be smooth, glassy; let the uppermost edges be cut into spikes and +teeth, and let them be bent, some one way, some another. Let the glassy +face be covered with minute fragments of rock, scarcely attached, but +varnished with ice; imagine this, and then you will have a very faint idea +of the face of the Ecrins on which we stood. It was not possible to avoid +detaching stones, which, as they fell, cause words unmentionable to rise. +The greatest friends would have reviled each other in such a situation. We +gained the eastern arête, and endeavoured for half-an-hour to work upwards +towards the summit; but it was useless (each yard of progress cost an +incredible time); and having no desire to form the acquaintance of the +Glacier Noir in a precipitate manner, we beat a retreat, and returned to +the schrund. We again held a council, and it was unanimously decided that +we should be beaten if we could not cut along the upper edge of the +schrund, and, when nearly beneath the summit, work up to it. So Croz took +off his coat and went to work;--on ice,--not that black ice so often +mentioned and so seldom seen, but on ice as hard as ice could be. Weary +work for the guides. Croz cut for more than half-an-hour, and we did not +seem to have advanced at all. Some one behind, seeing how great the labour +was, and how slow the progress, suggested that after all we might do +better on the arête. Croz's blood was up, and indignant at this slight on +his powers, he ceased working, turned in his steps, and rushed towards me +with a haste that made me shudder: "By all means let us go there, the +sooner the better." No slight was intended, and he resumed his work, after +a time being relieved by Almer. Half-past ten came; an hour had passed; +they were still cutting. Dreary work for us, for no capering about could +be done here; hand as well as foot holes were necessary; the fingers and +toes got very cold; the ice, as it boomed in bounding down the +bergschrund, was very suggestive; conversation was very restricted, +separated as we were by our tether of 20 feet apiece. Another hour passed. +We were now almost immediately below the summit, and we stopped to look +up. We were nearly as far off it (vertically) as we had been more than +three hours before. The day seemed going against us. The only rocks near +at hand were scattered; no bigger than tea-cups, and most of these, we +found afterwards, were glazed with ice. Time forbade cutting right up to +the summit, even had it been possible, which it was not. We decided to go +up to the ridge again by means of the rocks; but had we not had a certain +confidence in each other, it unquestionably would not have been done; for +this, it must be understood, was a situation where not only _might_ a slip +have been fatal to every one, but it would have been so beyond doubt: +nothing, moreover, was easier than to make one. It was a place where all +had to work in unison, where there must be no slackening of the rope, and +no unnecessary tension. For another hour we were in this trying situation, +and at 12.30 we gained the arête again at a much higher point (*B*), close +to the summit. Our men were, I am afraid, well-nigh worn out. Cutting up a +couloir 1000 feet high was not the right sort of preparation for work of +this kind. Be it so or not, we were all glad to rest for a short time, for +we had not sat down a minute since leaving the col six hours before. +Almer, however, was restless, knowing that midday was past, and that much +remained to be accomplished, and untied himself, and commenced working +towards the summit. Connecting the teeth of rock were beds of snow, and +Almer, only a few feet from me, was crossing the top of one of these, when +suddenly, without a moment's warning, it broke away under him, and plunged +down on to the glacier. As he staggered for a second, one foot in the act +of stepping, and the other on the falling mass, I thought him lost; but he +happily fell on to the right side and stopped himself. Had he taken the +step with his right instead of the left foot, he would, in all +probability, have fallen several hundred feet without touching anything, +and would not have been arrested before reaching the glacier, a vertical +distance of at least 3000 feet. + +Small, ridiculously small, as the distance was to the summit, we were +occupied nearly another hour before it was gained. Almer was a few feet in +front, and he, with characteristic modesty, hesitated to step on the +highest point, and drew back to allow us to pass. A cry was raised for +Croz, who had done the chief part of the work, but he declined the honour, +and we marched on to the top simultaneously; that is to say, clustered +round it, a yard or two below, for it was much too small to get upon. + +According to my custom, I bagged a piece from off the highest rock +(chlorite slate), and I found afterwards that it had a striking similarity +to the final peak of the Ecrins. I have noticed the same thing on other +occasions,(111) and it is worthy of remark that not only do fragments of +such rock as limestone often present the characteristic forms of the +cliffs from which they have been broken, but that morsels of mica slate +will represent, in a wonderful manner, the identical shape of the peaks of +which they have formed part. Why should it not be so if the mountain's +mass is more or less homogeneous? The same causes which produce the small +forms fashion the large ones; the same influences are at work; the same +frost and rain give shape to the mass as well as to its parts. + + [Illustration: FRAGMENT FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE POINTE DES ECRINS.] + +Did space permit me, I could give a very poor idea of the view, but it +will be readily imagined that a panorama extending over as much ground as +the whole of England is one worth taking some trouble to see, and one +which is not often to be seen even in the Alps. No clouds obscured it, and +a list of the summits that we saw would include nearly all the highest +peaks of the chain. I saw the Pelvoux now--as I had seen the Ecrins from it +three years before--across the basin of the Glacier Noir. It is a splendid +mountain, although in height it is equalled, if not surpassed, by its +neighbour the Aléfroide. + +We could stay on the summit only a short time, and at a quarter to two +prepared for the descent. Now, as we looked down, and thought of what we +had passed over in coming up, we one and all hesitated about returning the +same way. Moore said, no. Walker said the same, and I too; the guides were +both of the same mind: this, be it remarked, although we had considered +that there was no chance whatever of getting up any other way. But those +"last rocks" were not to be forgotten. Had they only protruded to a +moderate extent, or had they been merely glazed, we should doubtless still +have tried: but they were not reasonable rocks,--they would neither allow +us to hold, nor would do it themselves. So we turned to the western arête, +trusting to luck that we should find a way down to the schrund, and some +means of getting over it afterwards. Our faces were a tolerable index to +our thoughts, and apparently the thoughts of the party were not happy +ones. Had any one then said to me, "You are a great fool for coming here," +I should have answered with humility, "It is too true." And had my monitor +gone on to say, "Swear you will never ascend another mountain if you get +down safely," I am inclined to think I should have taken the oath. In +fact, the game here was not worth the risk. The guides felt it as well as +ourselves, and as Almer led off, he remarked, with more piety than logic, +"The good God has brought us up, and he will take us down in safety," +which showed pretty well what _he_ was thinking about. + +The ridge down which we now endeavoured to make our way was not inferior +in difficulty to the other. But were serrated to an extent that made it +impossible to keep strictly to them, and obliged us to descend +occasionally for some distance on the northern face and then mount again. +Both were so rotten that the most experienced of our party, as well as the +least, continually upset blocks large and small. Both arêtes were so +narrow, so thin, that it was often a matter for speculation on which side +an unstable block would fall. + +At one point it seemed that we should be obliged to return to the summit +and try the other way down. We were on the very edge of the arête. On one +side was the enormous precipice facing the Pelvoux, which is not far from +perpendicular; on the other a slope exceeding 50°. A deep notch brought us +to an abrupt halt. Almer, who was leading, advanced cautiously to the edge +on hands and knees, and peered over; his care was by no means unnecessary, +for the rocks had broken away from under us unexpectedly several times. In +this position he gazed down for some moments, and then, without a word, +turned his head and looked at us. His face _may_ have expressed +apprehension or alarm, but it certainly did not show hope or joy. We +learned that there was no means of getting down, and that we must, if we +wanted to pass the notch, jump across on to an unstable block on the other +side. It was decided that it should be done, and Almer, with a larger +extent of rope than usual, jumped. The rock swayed as he came down upon +it, but he clutched a large mass with both arms and brought himself to +anchor. That which was both difficult and dangerous for the first man was +easy enough for the others, and we got across with less trouble than I +expected; stimulated by Croz's perfectly just observation, that if we +couldn't get across there we were not likely to get down the other way. + +We had now arrived at *C* and could no longer continue on the arête, so we +commenced descending the face again. Before long we were close to the +schrund, but unable to see what it was like at this part, as the upper +edge bent over. Two hours had already passed since leaving the summit, and +it began to be highly probable that we should have to spend a night on the +Glacier Blanc. Almer, who yet led, cut steps right down to the edge, but +still he could not see below; therefore, warning us to hold tight, he made +his whole body rigid, and (standing in the large step which he had cut for +the purpose), had the upper part of his person lowered out until he saw +what he wanted. He shouted that our work was finished, made me come close +to the edge and untie myself, advanced the others until he had rope +enough, and then with a loud _jödel_ jumped down on to soft snow. Partly +by skill and partly by luck he had hit the crevasse at its easiest point, +and we had only to make a downward jump of eight or ten feet. + +We had been more than eight hours and a half accomplishing the ascent of +the final peak, which, according to an observation by Mr. Bonney in 1862, +is only 525 feet high.(112) During this period we had not stopped for more +than half-an-hour, and our nerves and muscles had been kept at the highest +degree of tension the whole time. It may be imagined that we accepted the +ordinary conditions of glacier travelling as an agreeable relief, and that +that which at another time might have seemed formidable we treated as the +veriest bagatelle. Late in the day as it was, and soft as was the snow, we +put on such pace that we reached the Col des Ecrins in less than forty +minutes. We lost no time in arranging our baggage, for we had still to +traverse a long glacier, and to get clear of two ice-falls before it was +dark; so, at 5.35 we resumed the march, adjourning eating and drinking, +and put on a spurt which took us clear of the Glacier Blanc by 7.45 +P.M.(113) We got off the moraine of the Glacier Noir at 8.45, just as the +last remnant of daylight vanished. Croz and myself were a trifle in +advance of the others, and fortunately so for us; for as they were about +to commence the descent of the snout of the glacier, the whole of the +moraine that rested on its face peeled off, and came down with a +tremendous roar. + +We had now the pleasure of walking over a plain that is known by the name +of the Pré de Madame Carle, covered with pebbles of all sizes, and +intersected by numerous small streams or torrents. Every hole looked like +a stone, every stone like a hole, and we tumbled about from side to side +until our limbs and our tempers became thoroughly jaded. My companions, +being both short-sighted, found the travelling especially disagreeable; so +there was little wonder that when we came upon a huge mass of rock as big +as a house, which had fallen from the flanks of Pelvoux, a regular cube +that offered no shelter whatever, Moore cried out in ecstasy, "Oh, how +delightful! the very thing I have been longing for. Let us have a +perfectly extemporaneous bivouac." This, it should be said, was when the +night threatened thunder and lightning, rain, and all other delights. + +The pleasures of a perfectly extemporaneous bivouac under these +circumstances not being novelties to Croz and myself, we thought we would +try for the miseries of a roof; but Walker and Almer, with their usual +good nature, declared it was the very thing that they, too, were longing +for; so the trio resolved to stop. We generously left them all the +provisions (a dozen cubic inches or thereabouts of bacon fat, and half a +candle), and pushed on for the chalets of Aléfroide, or at least we +thought we did, but could not be certain. In the course of half-an-hour we +got uncommonly close to the main torrent, and Croz all at once +disappeared. I stepped cautiously forward to peer down into the place +where I thought he was, and quietly tumbled head over heels into a big +rhododendron bush. Extricating myself with some trouble, I fell backwards +over some rocks, and got wedged in a cleft so close to the torrent that it +splashed all over me. + +The colloquy which then ensued amid the thundering of the stream was as +follows:-- + +"Hullo, Croz!" "Eh, Monsieur." "Where _are_ you?" "Here, Monsieur." "Where +_is_ here?" "I don't know; where are _you_?" "Here, Croz;" and so on. + +The fact was, from the intense darkness, and the noise of the torrent, we +had no idea of each other's situation. In the course of ten minutes, +however, we joined together again, agreed we had had quite enough of that +kind of thing, and adjourned to a most eligible rock at 10.15. + +How well I remember the night at that rock, and the jolly way in which +Croz came out! We were both very wet about the legs, and both uncommonly +hungry, but the time passed pleasantly enough round our fire of juniper, +and until long past midnight we sat up recounting, over our pipes, +wonderful stories of the most incredible description, in which I must +admit, my companion beat me hollow. Then throwing ourselves on our beds of +rhododendron, we slept an untroubled sleep, and rose on a bright Sunday +morning as fresh as might be, intending to enjoy a day's rest and luxury +with our friends at La Ville de Val Louise. + + [Illustration: A NIGHT WITH CROZ.] + +I have failed to give the impression I wish if it has not been made +evident that the ascent of the Pointe des Ecrins was not an ordinary piece +of work. There is an increasing disposition now-a-days amongst those who +write on the Alps, to underrate the difficulties and dangers which are met +with, and this disposition is, I think, not less mischievous than the +old-fashioned style of making everything terrible. Difficult as we found +the peak, I believe we took it at the best, perhaps the only possible, +time of the year. The great slope on which we spent so much time was, from +being denuded by the avalanche of which I have spoken, deprived of its +greatest danger. Had it had the snow still resting upon it, and had we +persevered with the expedition, we should almost without doubt have ended +with calamity instead of success. The ice of that slope is always below, +its angle is severe, and the rocks do not project sufficiently to afford +the support that snow requires, to be stable, when at a great angle. So +far am I from desiring to tempt any one to repeat the expedition, that I +put it on record as my belief, however sad and however miserable a man may +have been, if he is found on the summit of the Pointe des Ecrins after a +fall of new snow, he is likely to experience misery far deeper than +anything with which he has hitherto been acquainted.(114) + + + + + + CHAPTER IX. + + + FROM VAL LOUISE TO LA BÉRARDE BY THE COL DE PILATTE.(115) + + + "How pleasant it is for him who is saved to remember his + danger." + EURIPIDES. + + +From Ailefroide to Claux, but for the path, travel would be scarcely more +easy than over the Pré de Madame Carle.(116) The valley is strewn with +immense masses of gneiss, from the size of a large house downwards, and it +is only occasionally that rock _in situ_ is seen, so covered up is it by +the débris, which seems to have been derived almost entirely from the +neighbouring cliffs. + +It was Sunday, a "day most calm and bright." Golden sunlight had dispersed +the clouds, and was glorifying the heights, and we forgot hunger through +the brilliancy of the morning and beauty of the mountains. + +We meant the 26th to be a day of rest, but it was little that we found in +the _cabaret_ of Claude Giraud, and we fled before the babel of sound +which rose in intensity as men descended to a depth which is unattainable +by the beasts of the field, and found at the chalets of Entraigues(117) +the peace that had been denied to us at Val Louise. + +Again we were received with the most cordial hospitality. Everything that +was eatable or drinkable was brought out and pressed upon us; every little +curiosity was exhibited; every information that could be afforded was +given; and when we retired to our clean straw, we again congratulated each +other that we had escaped from the foul den which is where a good inn +should be, and had cast in our lot with those who dwell in chalets. Very +luxurious that straw seemed after two nights upon quartz pebbles and +glacier mud, and I felt quite aggrieved (expecting it was the summons for +departure) when, about midnight, the heavy wooden door creaked on its +hinges, and a man hem'd and ha'd to attract attention; but when it +whispered, "Monsieur Edvard," I perceived my mistake,--it was our Pelvoux +companion, Monsieur Reynaud, the excellent _agent-voyer_ of La Bessée. + +Monsieur Reynaud had been invited to accompany us on the excursion that is +described in this chapter, but had arrived at Val Louise after we had +left, and had energetically pursued us during the night. Our idea was that +a pass might be made over the high ridge called (on the French map) Crête +de Boeufs Rouges,(118) near to the peak named Les Bans, and that it might +be the shortest route in time (as it certainly would be in distance) from +Val Louise, across the Central Dauphiné Alps. We had seen the northern (or +Pilatte) side from the Brèche de la Meije, and it seemed to be practicable +at one place near the above-mentioned mountain. More than that could not +be told at a distance of eleven miles. We intended to try to hit a point +on the ridge immediately above the part where it seemed to be easiest. + +We left Entraigues at 3.30 on the morning of June 27, and proceeded, over +very gently-inclined ground, towards the foot of the Pic de Bonvoisin +(following in fact the route of the Col de Sellar, which leads from the +Val Louise into the Val Godemar);(119) and at 5 A.M., finding that there +was no chance of obtaining a view from the bottom of the valley of the +ridge over which our route was to be taken, sent Almer up the lower slopes +of the Bonvoisin to reconnoitre. He telegraphed that we might proceed; and +at 5.45 we quitted the snow-beds at the bottom of the valley for the +slopes which rose towards the north. + +The course was N.N.W., and was prodigiously steep. _In less than two miles +difference of latitude we rose one mile of absolute height._ But the route +was so far from being an exceptionally difficult one, that at 10.45 we +stood on the summit of the pass, having made an ascent of more than 5000 +feet in five hours, inclusive of halts. + +Upon sheet 189 of the French map a glacier is laid down on the south of +the Crête des Boeufs Rouges, extending along the entire length of the +ridge, at its foot, from east to west. In 1864 this glacier did not exist +as _one_ glacier, but in the place where it should have been there were +several small ones, all of which were, I believe, separated from each +other.(120) + +We commenced the ascent from the Val d'Entraigues, to the west of the most +western of these small glaciers, and quitted the valley by the first great +gap in its cliffs after that glacier was passed. We did not take to the +ice until it afforded an easier route than the rocks; then (8.30) Croz +went to the front, and led with admirable skill through a maze of +crevasses up to the foot of a great snow _couloir_, that rose from the +head of the glacier to the summit of the ridge over which we had to pass. + +We had settled beforehand in London, without knowing anything whatever +about the place, that such a couloir as this should be in this angle; but +when we got into the Val d'Entraigues, and found that it was not possible +to see into the corner, our faith in its existence became less and less, +until the telegraphing of Almer, who was sent up the opposite slopes to +search for it, assured us that we were true prophets. + + [Illustration: A SNOW COULOIR.] + +Snow _couloirs_ are nothing more or less than gullies partly filled by +snow. They are most useful institutions, and may be considered as natural +highways placed, by a kind Providence, in convenient situations for +getting over places which would otherwise be inaccessible. They are a joy +to the mountaineer, and, from afar, assure him of a path when all beside +is uncertain; but they are grief to novices, who, when upon steep snow, +are usually seized with two notions--first, that the snow will slip, and +secondly, that those who are upon it must slip too. + +Nothing, perhaps, could look much more unpromising to those who do not +know the virtues of couloirs than such a place as the engraving +represents,(121) and if persons inexperienced in mountain craft had +occasion to cross a ridge or to climb rocks, in which there were such +couloirs, they would instinctively avoid them. But practised mountaineers +would naturally look to them for a path, and would follow them almost as a +matter of course, unless they turned out to be filled with ice, or too +much swept by falling stones, or the rock at the sides proved to be of +such an exceptional character as to afford an easier path than the snow. + +Couloirs look prodigiously steep when seen from the front, and, so viewed, +it is impossible to be certain of their inclination within many degrees. +Snow, however, does actually lie at steeper angles in couloirs than in any +other situations;--45° to 50° degrees is not an uncommon inclination. Even +at such angles, two men with proper axes can mount on snow at the rate of +700 to 800 feet per hour. The same amount can only be accomplished in the +same time on steep rocks when they are of the very easiest character, and +four or five hours may be readily spent upon an equal height of difficult +rocks. Snow couloirs are therefore to be commended because they economise +time. + +Of course, in all gullies, one is liable to be encountered by falling +stones. Most of those which fall from the rocks of a couloir, sooner or +later spin down the snow which fills the trough; and, as their course and +pace are more clearly apparent when falling over snow than when jumping +from ledge to ledge, persons with lively imaginations are readily +impressed by them. The grooves which are usually seen wandering down the +length of snow couloirs are deepened (and, perhaps, occasionally +originated) by falling stones, and they are sometimes pointed out by +cautious men as reasons why couloirs should not be followed. I think they +are very frequently only gutters, caused by water trickling off the rocks. +Whether this is so or not, one should always consider the possibility of +being struck by falling stones, and, in order to lessen the risk as far as +possible, should mount upon the sides of the snow, and not up its centre. +Stones that come off the rocks will then generally fly over one's head, or +bound down the middle of the trough at a safe distance. + +At 9.30 A.M. we commenced the ascent of the couloir leading from the +nameless glacier to a point in the ridge, just to the east of Mont +Bans.(122) So far the route had been nothing more than a steep grind in an +angle where little could be seen, but now views opened out in several +directions, and the way began to be interesting. It was more so, perhaps, +to us than to our companion M. Reynaud, who had no rest in the last night. +He was, moreover, heavily laden. Science was to be regarded--his pockets +were stuffed with books; heights and angles were to be observed--his +knapsack was filled with instruments; hunger was to be guarded against--his +shoulders were ornamented with a huge nimbus of bread, and a leg of mutton +swung behind from his knapsack, looking like an overgrown tail. Being a +good-hearted fellow, he had brought this food, thinking we might be in +need of it. As it happened, we were well provided for, and having our own +packs to carry, could not relieve him of his superfluous burdens, which, +naturally, he did not like to throw away. As the angles steepened, the +strain on his strength became more and more apparent. At last he began to +groan. At first a most gentle and mellow groan; but as we rose so did his +groans, till at last the cliffs were groaning in echo, and we were moved +to laughter. + +Croz cut the way with unflagging energy throughout the whole of the +ascent, and at 10.45 we stood on the summit of our pass, intending to +refresh ourselves with a good halt. Unhappily, at that moment a mist, +which had been playing about the ridge, swooped down and blotted out the +whole of the view on the northern side. Croz was the only one who caught a +glimpse of the descent, and it was deemed advisable to push on +immediately, while its recollection was fresh in his memory. We are +consequently unable to tell anything about the summit of the pass, except +that it lies immediately to the east of Mont Bans, and is elevated about +11,300 feet above the level of the sea. It is the highest pass in +Dauphiné. We called it the Col de Pilatte. + +We commenced to descend towards the Glacier de Pilatte by a slope of +smooth ice, the face of which, according to the measurement of Mr. Moore, +had an inclination of 54°! Croz still led, and the others followed at +intervals of about 15 feet, all being tied together, and Almer occupying +the responsible position of last man. The two guides were therefore about +70 feet apart. They were quite invisible to each other from the mist, and +looked spectral even to us. But the _strong_ man could be heard by all +hewing out the steps below, while every now and then the voice of the +_steady_ man pierced the cloud,--"Slip not, dear sirs; place well your +feet: stir not until you are certain." + +For three quarters of an hour we progressed in this fashion. The axe of +Croz all at once stopped. "What is the matter, Croz?" "Bergschrund, +gentlemen." "Can we get over?" "Upon my word, I don't know; I think we +must jump." The clouds rolled away right and left as he spoke. The effect +was dramatic! It was a _coup de théâtre_, preparatory to the "great +sensation leap" which was about to be executed by the entire company. + +Some unseen cause, some cliff or obstruction in the rocks underneath, had +caused our wall of ice to split into two portions, and the huge fissure +which had thus been formed extended, on each hand, as far as could be +seen. We, on the slope above, were separated from the slope below by a +mighty crevasse. No running up and down to look for an easier place to +cross could be done on an ice-slope of 54°; the chasm had to be passed +then and there. + +A downward jump of 15 or 16 feet, and a forward leap of 7 or 8 feet had to +be made at the same time. That is not much, you will say. It was not much; +it was not the quantity, but it was the quality of the jump which gave to +it its particular flavour. You had to hit a narrow ridge of ice. If that +was passed, it seemed as if you might roll down for ever and ever. If it +was not attained, you dropped into the crevasse below; which, although +partly choked by icicles and snow that had fallen from above, was still +gaping in many places, ready to receive an erratic body. + +Croz untied Walker in order to get rope enough, and warning us to hold +fast, sprang over the chasm. He alighted cleverly on his feet; untied +himself and sent up the rope to Walker, who followed his example. It was +then my turn, and I advanced to the edge of the ice. The second which +followed was what is called a supreme moment. That is to say, I felt +supremely ridiculous. The world seemed to revolve at a frightful pace, and +my stomach to fly away. The next moment I found myself sprawling in the +snow, and then, of course, vowed that _it was nothing_, and prepared to +encourage my friend Reynaud. + +He came to the edge and made declarations. I do not believe that he was a +whit more reluctant to pass the place than we others, but he was +infinitely more demonstrative,--in a word, he was French. He wrung his +hands, "Oh! what a _diable_ of a place!" "It is nothing, Reynaud," I said, +"it is _nothing_." "Jump," cried the others, "jump." But he turned round, +as far as one can do such a thing in an ice-step, and covered his face +with his hands, ejaculating, "Upon my word, it is not possible. No! no!! +no!!! it is not possible." + +How he came over I do not know. We saw a toe--it seemed to belong to Moore; +we saw Reynaud a flying body, coming down as if taking a header into +water; with arms and legs all abroad, his leg of mutton flying in the air, +his bâton escaped from his grasp; and then we heard a thud as if a bundle +of carpets had been pitched out of a window. When set upon his feet he was +a sorry spectacle; his head was a great snowball; brandy was trickling out +of one side of the knapsack, chartreuse out of the other--we bemoaned its +loss, but we roared with laughter. + + + +This chapter has already passed the limits within which it should have +been confined, but I cannot close it without paying tribute to the ability +with which Croz led us, through a dense mist, down the remainder of the +Glacier de Pilatte. As an exhibition of strength and skill, it has +probably never been surpassed in the Alps or elsewhere. On this almost +unknown and very steep glacier, he was perfectly at home, even in the +mists. Never able to see fifty feet ahead, he still went on with the +utmost certainty, and without having to retrace a single step; and +displayed from first to last consummate knowledge of the materials with +which he was dealing. Now he cut steps down one side of a _sérac_, went +with a dash at the other side, and hauled us up after him; then cut away +along a ridge until a point was gained from which we could jump on to +another ridge; then, doubling back, found a snow-bridge, across which he +crawled on hands and knees, towed us across by the legs, ridiculing our +apprehensions, mimicking our awkwardness, declining all help, bidding us +only to follow him. + +About 1 P.M. we emerged from the mist and found ourselves just arrived +upon the level portion of the glacier, having, as Reynaud properly +remarked, come down as quickly as if there had not been any mist at all. +Then we attacked the leg of mutton which my friend had so thoughtfully +brought with him, and afterwards raced down, with renewed energy, to La +Bérarde. + +Reynaud and I walked together to St. Christophe, where we parted. Since +then we have talked over the doings of this momentous day; and I know that +he would not, for a good deal, have missed the passage of the Col de +Pilatte, although we failed to make it an easier or a shorter route than +the Col du Selé. I rejoined Moore and Walker, the same evening, at Venos, +and on the next day went with them over the Lautaret road to the hospice +on its summit, where we slept. + +So our little campaign in Dauphiné came to an end. It was remarkable for +the absence of failures, and for the ease and precision with which all our +plans were carried out. This was due very much to the spirit of my +companions; but it was also owing to the fine weather which we were +fortunate enough to enjoy, and to our making a very early start every +morning. By beginning our work at or before the break of day, on the +longest days in the year, we were not only able to avoid hurrying when +deliberation was desirable, but could afford to spend several hours in +delightful ease whenever the fancy seized us. + +I cannot too strongly recommend to tourists in search of amusement to +avoid the inns of Dauphiné. Sleep in the chalets. Get what food you can +from the inns, but do not as a rule attempt to pass nights in them.(123) +_Sleep_ in them you cannot. M. Joanne says that the inventor of the +insecticide powder was a native of Dauphiné. I can well believe it. He +must have often felt the necessity of such an invention in his infancy and +childhood. + +On June 29 I crossed the Col du Galibier to St. Michel; on the 30th, the +Col des Encombres to Moutiers; on July 1, the Col du Bonhomme to +Contamines; and on the 2d, by the Pavilion de Bellevue to Chamounix, where +I joined Mr. Adams-Reilly to take part in some expeditions which had been +planned long before. + + + + + + CHAPTER X. + + +THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DE TRIOLET, AND FIRST ASCENTS OF MONT DOLENT, + AIGUILLE DE TRÉLATÊTE, AND AIGUILLE D'ARGENTIÈRE. + + + "Nothing binds men so closely together as agreement in plans and + desires." + CICERO. + + +A few years ago not many persons knew from personal knowledge how +extremely inaccurately the chain of Mont Blanc was delineated. In the +earlier part of the century thousands had made the tour of the chain, and +before the year 1860 at least _one_ thousand individuals had stood upon +its highest summit; but out of all this number there was not one capable, +willing, or able, to map the mountain which, until recently, was regarded +the highest in Europe. + +Many persons knew that great blunders had been perpetrated, and it was +notorious that even Mont Blanc itself was represented in a ludicrously +incorrect manner on all sides excepting the north; but there was not, +perhaps, a single individual who knew, at the time to which I refer, that +errors of no less than 1000 feet had been committed in the determination +of heights at each end of the chain; that some glaciers were represented +of double their real dimensions; and that ridges and mountains were laid +down which actually had no existence. + +One portion alone of the entire chain had been surveyed at the time of +which I speak with anything like accuracy. It was not done (as one would +have expected) by a Government, but by a private individual,--by the +British De Saussure,--the late J. D. Forbes. In the year 1842, he "made a +special survey of the Mer de Glace of Chamounix and its tributaries, +which, in some of the following years, he extended by further +observations, so as to include the Glacier des Bossons." The map produced +from this survey was worthy of its author; and subsequent explorers of the +region he investigated have been able to detect only trivial inaccuracies +in his work. + +In 1861, Sheet xxii. of Dufour's Map of Switzerland appeared. It included +the section of the chain of Mont Blanc that belonged to Switzerland, and +this portion of the sheet was executed with the admirable fidelity and +thoroughness which characterise the whole of Dufour's unique map. The +remainder of the chain (amounting to about four-fifths of the whole) was +laid down after the work of previous topographers, and its wretchedness +was made more apparent by contrast with the finished work of the Swiss +surveyors. + +In 1863, Mr. Adams-Reilly, who had been travelling in the Alps during +several years, resolved to attempt a survey of the unsurveyed portions of +the chain of Mont Blanc. He provided himself with a good theodolite, and +starting from a base-line measured by Forbes in the Valley of Chamounix, +determined the positions of no less than 200 points. The accuracy of his +work may be judged from the fact that, after having turned many corners +and carried his observations over a distance of fifty miles, his Col +Ferret "fell within 200 yards of the position assigned to it by General +Dufour!" + +In the winter of 1863 and the spring of 1864, Mr. Reilly constructed an +entirely original map from his newly-acquired data. The spaces between his +trigonometrically determined points he filled in after photographs, and a +series of panoramic sketches which he made from his different stations. +The map so produced was an immense advance upon those already in +existence, and it was the first which exhibited the great peaks in their +proper positions. + +This extraordinary piece of work revealed Mr. Reilly to me as a man of +wonderful determination and perseverance. With very small hope that my +proposal would be accepted, I invited him to take part in renewed attacks +on the Matterhorn. He entered heartily into my plans, and met me with a +counter-proposition, namely, that I should accompany him on some +expeditions which he had projected in the chain of Mont Blanc. The +unwritten contract took this form:--I will help you to carry out your +desires, and you shall assist me to carry out mine. I eagerly closed with +an arrangement in which all the advantages were upon my side. + +At the time that Mr. Reilly was carrying on his survey, Captain Mieulet +was executing another in continuation of the great map of France; for +about one-half of the chain of Mont Blanc (including the whole of the +valley of Chamounix) had recently become French once more. Captain Mieulet +was directed to survey up to his frontier only, and the sheet which was +destined to include his work was to be engraved, of course, upon the scale +of the rest of the map, viz., 1/80000 of nature. But upon representations +being made at head-quarters that it would be of great advantage to extend +the survey as far as Courmayeur, Captain Mieulet was directed to continue +his observations into the south (or Italian) side of the chain. A special +sheet on the scale of 1/40000 was promptly engraved from the materials he +accumulated, and was published in 1865, by order of the late Minister of +War, Marshal Randon.(124) This sheet was admirably executed, but it +included the central portion of the chain only, and a complete map was +still wanting. + +Mr. Reilly presented his MS. map to the English Alpine Club. It was +resolved that it should be published; but before it passed into the +engraver's hands its author undertook to revise it carefully. To this end +he planned a number of expeditions to high points which up to that time +had been regarded inaccessible, and upon some of these ascents he invited +me to accompany him. Before I pass on to these expeditions, it will be +convenient to devote a few lines to the topography of the chain of Mont +Blanc. + +At the present time the chain is divided betwixt France, Switzerland, and +Italy. France has the lion's share, Switzerland the most fertile portion, +and Italy the steepest side. It has acquired a reputation which is not +extraordinary, but which is not wholly merited. It has neither the beauty +of the Oberland, nor the sublimity of Dauphiné. It attracts the vulgar by +the possession of the highest summit in the Alps. If that is removed, the +elevation of the chain is in nowise remarkable. In fact, excluding Mont +Blanc itself, the mountains of which the chain is made up are less +important than those of the Oberland and the central Pennine groups. The +following table will afford a ready means of comparison.(125) + + Mètres. Eng. feet(126) + 1. Mont Blanc 4810 = 15,781 + 2. Grandes Jorasses 4206 . 13,800 + 3. Aiguille Verte 4127 . 13,540 + 4. Aiguille de Bionnassay 4061 . 13,324 + 5. Les Droites 4030 . 13,222 + 6. Aiguille du Géant 4010 . 13,157 + 7. Aiguille de Trélatête, No. 1 3932 . 12,900 + Aiguille de Trélatête, No. 2 3904 . 12,809 + Aiguille de Trélatête, No. 3 3896 . 12,782 + 8. Aiguille d'Argentière 3901 . 12,799 + 9. Aiguille de Triolet 3879 . 12,726 +10. Aiguille du Midi 3843 . 12,608 +11. Aiguille du Glacier 3834 . 12,579 +12. Mont Dolent 3830 . 12,566 +13. Aiguille du Chardonnet 3823 . 12,543 +14. Aiguille du Dru 3815 . 12,517 +15. Aiguille de Miage 3680 . 12,074 +16. Aiguille du Plan 3673 . 12,051 +17. Aiguille de Blaitière 3533 . 11,591 +18. Aiguille des Charmoz 3442 . 11,293 + +The frontier-line follows the main ridge. Very little of it can be seen +from the Valley of Chamounix, and from the village itself two small strips +only are visible (amounting to scarcely three miles in length)--viz. from +the summit of Mont Blanc to the Dôme du Goûter, and in the neighbourhood +of the Col de Balme. All the rest is concealed by outlying ridges and by +mountains of secondary importance. + +Mont Blanc itself is bounded by the two glaciers of Miage, the glaciers de +la Brenva and du Géant, the Val Véni and the Valley of Chamounix. A long +ridge runs out towards the N.N.E. from the summit, through Mont Maudit, to +the Aiguille du Midi. Another ridge proceeds towards the N.W., through the +Bosse du Dromadaire to the Dôme du Goûter; this then divides into two, of +which one continues N.W. to the Aiguille du Goûter, and the other (which +is a part of the main ridge of the chain) towards the W. to the Aiguille +de Bionnassay. The two routes which are commonly followed for the ascent +of Mont Blanc lie between these two principal ridges--one leading from +Chamounix, _viâ_ the Grands Mulets, the other from the village of +Bionnassay, _viâ_ the Aiguille and Dôme du Goûter. + +The ascent of Mont Blanc has been made from several directions besides +these, and perhaps there is no single point of the compass from which the +mountain cannot be ascended. But there is not the least probability that +any one will discover easier ways to the summit than those already known. + +I believe it is correct to say that the Aiguille du Midi and the Aiguille +de Miage were the only two summits in the chain of Mont Blanc which had +been ascended at the beginning of 1864.(127) The latter of these two is a +perfectly insignificant point; and the former is only a portion of one of +the ridges just now mentioned, and can hardly be regarded as a mountain +separate and distinct from Mont Blanc. The really great peaks of the chain +were considered inaccessible, and, I think, with the exception of the +Aiguille Verte, had never been assailed. + +The finest, as well as the highest peak in the chain (after Mont Blanc +itself), is the Grandes Jorasses. The next, without a doubt, is the +Aiguille Verte. The Aiguille de Bionnassay, which in actual height follows +the Verte, should be considered as a part of Mont Blanc; and in the same +way the summit called Les Droites is only a part of the ridge which +culminates in the Verte. The Aiguille de Trélatête is the next on the list +that is entitled to be considered a separate mountain, and is by far the +most important peak (as well as the highest) at the south-west end of the +chain. Then comes the Aiguille d'Argentière, which occupies the same rank +at the north-east end as the last-mentioned mountain does in the +south-west. The rest of the aiguilles are comparatively insignificant; and +although some of them (such as the Mont Dolent) look well from low +elevations, and seem to possess a certain importance, they sink into their +proper places directly one arrives at a considerable altitude. + +The summit of the Aiguille Verte would have been one of the best stations +out of all these mountains for the purposes of my friend. Its great +height, and its isolated and commanding position, make it a most admirable +point for viewing the intricacies of the chain; but he exercised a wise +discretion in passing it by, and in selecting as our first excursion the +passage of the Col de Triolet.(128) + +We slept under some big rocks on the Couvercle on the night of July 7, +with the thermometer at 26·5 Faht., and at 4.30 on the 8th made a straight +track to the north of the Jardin, and thence went in zigzags, to break the +ascent, over the upper slopes of the Glacier de Talèfre towards the foot +of the Aiguille de Triolet. Croz was still my guide, Reilly was +accompanied by one of the Michel Payots of Chamounix, and Henri Charlet, +of the same place, was our porter. + +The way was over an undulating plain of glacier of moderate inclination +until the corner leading to the Col, from whence a steep secondary glacier +led down into the basin of the Talèfre. We experienced no difficulty in +making the ascent of this secondary glacier with such ice-men as Croz and +Payot, and at 7.50 A.M. arrived on the top of the so-called pass, at a +height, according to Mieulet, of 12,162 feet, and 4530 above our camp on +the Couvercle. + +The descent was commenced by very steep, but firm, rocks, and then by a +branch of the Glacier de Triolet. Schrunds(129) were abundant; there were +no less than five extending completely across the glacier, all of which +had to be jumped. Not one was equal in dimensions to the extraordinary +chasm on the Col de Pilatte, although in the aggregate they far surpassed +it. "Our lives," so Reilly expressed it, "were made a burden to us with +schrunds." + +We flattered ourselves that we should arrive at the chalets of Prè du Bar +very early in the day; but, owing to much time being lost on the slopes of +Mont Rouge, it was nearly 4 P.M. before we got to them. There were no +bridges across the torrent nearer than Gruetta, and rather than descend so +far, we preferred to round the base of Mont Rouge, and to cross the snout +of the Glacier du Mont Dolent.(130) + +We occupied the 9th with a scramble up Mont Dolent. This was a miniature +ascent. It contained a little of everything. First we went up to the Col +Ferret (No. 1), and had a little grind over shaly banks; then there was a +little walk over grass; then a little tramp over a moraine (which, strange +to say, gave a pleasant path); then a little zigzagging over the +snow-covered glacier of Mont Dolent. Then there was a little bergschrund; +then a little wall of snow,--which we mounted by the side of a little +buttress; and when we struck the ridge descending S.E. from the summit, we +found a little arête of snow leading to the highest point. The summit +itself was little,--very small indeed; it was the loveliest little cone of +snow that was ever piled up on mountain-top; so soft, so pure; it seemed a +crime to defile it; it was a miniature Jungfrau, a toy summit, you could +cover it with the hand.(131) + +But there was nothing little about the _view_ from the Mont Dolent. +[Situated at the junction of three mountain ridges, it rises in a positive +steeple far above anything in its immediate neighbourhood; and certain +gaps in the surrounding ridges, which seem contrived for that especial +purpose, extend the view in almost every direction. The precipices which +descend to the Glacier d'Argentière I can only compare to those of the +Jungfrau, and the ridges on both sides of that glacier, especially the +steep rocks of Les Droites and Les Courtes, surmounted by the sharp +snow-peak of the Aig. Verte, have almost the effect of the Grandes +Jorasses. Then, framed, as it were, between the massive tower of the Aig. +de Triolet and the more distant Jorasses, lies, without exception, the +most delicately beautiful picture I have ever seen--the whole _massif_ of +Mont Blanc, raising its great head of snow far above the tangled series of +flying buttresses which uphold the Monts Maudits, supported on the left by +Mont Peuteret and by the mass of ragged aiguilles which overhang the +Brenva. This aspect of Mont Blanc is not new, but from this point its +_pose_ is unrivalled, and it has all the superiority of a picture grouped +by the hand of a master.... The view is as extensive, and far more lovely +than that from Mont Blanc itself.](132) + + + +We went down to Courmayeur, and on the afternoon of July 10 started from +that place to camp on Mont Suc, for the ascent of the Aiguille de +Trélatête; hopeful that the mists which were hanging about would clear +away. They did not, so we deposited ourselves, and a vast load of straw, +on the moraine of the Miage Glacier, just above the Lac de Combal, in a +charming little hole which some solitary shepherd had excavated beneath a +great slab of rock. We spent the night there, and the whole of the next +day, unwilling to run away, and equally so to get into difficulties by +venturing into the mist. It was a dull time, and I grew restless. Reilly +read to me a lecture on the excellence of patience, and composed himself +in an easy attitude, to pore over the pages of a yellow-covered book. +"Patience," I said to him viciously, "comes readily to fellows who have +shilling novels; but I have not got one; I have picked all the mud out of +the nails of my boots, and have skinned my face; what shall I do?" "Go and +study the moraine of the Miage," said he. I went, and came back after an +hour. "What news?" cried Reilly, raising himself on his elbow. "Very +little; it's a big moraine, bigger than I thought, with ridge outside +ridge, like a fortified camp; and there are walls upon it which have been +built and loop-holed, as if for defence." "Try again," he said, as he +threw himself on his back. But I went to Croz, who was asleep, and tickled +his nose with a straw until he awoke; and then, as that amusement was +played out, watched Reilly, who was getting numbed, and shifted uneasily +from side to side, and threw himself on his stomach, and rested his head +on his elbows, and lighted his pipe and puffed at it savagely. When I +looked again, how was Reilly? An indistinguishable heap; arms, legs, head, +stones, and straw, all mixed together, his hat flung on one side, his +novel tossed far away! Then I went to him, and read him a lecture on the +excellence of patience. + + [Illustration: Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day] + [Illustration: Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day] + [Illustration: Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day] + [Illustration: Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day] + [Illustration: Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day] + +Bah! it was a dull time. Our mountain, like a beautiful coquette, +sometimes unveiled herself for a moment, and looked charming above, +although very mysterious below. It was not until eventide she allowed us +to approach her; then, as darkness came on, the curtains were withdrawn, +the light drapery was lifted, and we stole up on tiptoe through the grand +portal formed by Mont Suc. But night advanced rapidly, and we found +ourselves left out in the cold, without a hole to creep into or shelter +from overhanging rock. We might have fared badly, except for our good +plaids. When they were sewn together down their long edges, and one end +tossed over our rope (which was passed round some rocks), and the other +secured by stones, there was sufficient protection; and we slept on this +exposed ridge, 9700 feet above the level of the sea, more soundly, +perhaps, than if we had been lying on feather beds. + + [Illustration: OUR CAMP ON MONT SUC.(133)] + +We left our bivouac at 4.45 A.M., and at 9.40 arrived upon the highest of +the three summits of the Trélatête, by passing over the lowest one. It was +well above everything at this end of the chain, and the view from it was +extraordinarily magnificent. The whole of the western face of Mont Blanc +was spread out before us; we were the first by whom it had been ever seen. +I cede the description of this view to my comrade, to whom it rightfully +belongs. + +[For four years I had felt great interest in the geography of the chain; +the year before I had mapped, more or less successfully, all but this +spot, and this spot had always eluded my grasp. The praises, undeserved as +they were, which my map had received, were as gall and wormwood to me when +I thought of that great slope which I had been obliged to leave a blank, +speckled over with unmeaning dots of rock, gathered from previous maps--for +I had consulted them all without meeting an intelligible representation of +it. From the surface of the Miage glacier I had gained nothing, for I +could only see the feet of magnificent ice-streams, and no more; but now, +from the top of the dead wall of rock which had so long closed my view, I +saw those fine glaciers from top to bottom, pouring down their streams, +nearly as large as the Bossons, from Mont Blanc, from the Bosse, and from +the Dôme. + +The head of Mont Blanc is supported on this side by two buttresses, +between which vast glaciers descend. Of these the most southern(134) takes +its rise at the foot of the precipices which fall steeply down from the +Calotte,(135) and its stream, as it joins that of the Miage, is cut in two +by an enormous _rognon_ of rock. Next, to the left, comes the largest of +the buttresses of which I have spoken, almost forming an aiguille in +itself. The next glacier(136) descends from a large basin which receives +the snows of the summit-ridge between the Bosse and the Dome, and it is +divided from the third and last glacier(137) by another buttress, which +joins the summit-ridge at a point between the Dôme and the Aig. de +Bionnassay.] + +The great buttresses betwixt these magnificent ice-streams have supplied a +large portion of the enormous masses of débris which are disposed in +ridges round about, and are strewn over, the termination of the Glacier de +Miage in the Val Véni. These moraines(138) used to be classed amongst the +wonders of the world. They are very large for a glacier of the size of the +Miage. + +The dimensions of moraines are not ruled by those of glaciers. Many small +glaciers have large moraines,(139) and many large ones have small +moraines. The size of the moraines of any glacier depends mainly upon the +area of rock surface that is exposed to atmospheric influences within the +basin drained by the glacier; upon the nature of such rock,--whether it is +friable or resistant; and upon the dip of strata. Moraines most likely +will be small if little rock surface is exposed; but when large ones are +seen, then, in all probability, large areas of rock, uncovered by snow or +ice, will be found in immediate contiguity to the glacier. The Miage +glacier has large ones, because it receives detritus from many great +cliffs and ridges. But if this glacier, instead of lying, as it does, at +the bottom of a trough, were to fill that trough, if it were to completely +envelope the Aiguille de Trélatête, and the other mountains which border +it, and were to descend from Mont Blanc unbroken by rock or ridge, it +would be as destitute of morainic matter as the great _Mer de Glace_ of +Greenland. For if a country or district is _completely_ covered up by +glacier, the moraines may be of the very smallest dimensions.(140) + +The contributions that are supplied to moraines by glaciers themselves, +from the abrasion of the rocks over which their ice passes, are minute +compared with the accumulations which are furnished from other sources. +These great rubbish-heaps are formed, one may say almost entirely, from +débris which falls, or is washed down the flanks of mountains, or from +cliffs bordering glaciers; and are composed, to a very limited extent +only, of matter that is ground, rasped, or filed off by the friction of +the ice. + +If the contrary view were to be adopted, if it could be maintained that +"glaciers, _by their motion, break off masses of rock from the sides and +bottoms of their valley courses_, and crowd along every thing that is +movable, so as to form large accumulations of débris in front, and along +their sides,"(141) the conclusion could not be resisted, the greater the +glacier, the greater should be the moraine. + +This doctrine does not find much favour with those who have personal +knowledge of what glaciers do at the present time. From De Saussure(142) +downwards it has been pointed out, time after time, that moraines are +chiefly formed from débris coming from rocks or soil _above_ the ice, not +from the bed over which it passes. But amongst the writings of modern +speculators upon glaciers and glacier-action in bygone times, it is not +uncommon to find the notions entertained, that moraines represent the +amount of _excavation_ (such is the term employed) performed by glaciers, +or at least are comprised of matter which has been excavated by glaciers; +that vast moraines have necessarily been produced by vast glaciers; and +that a great extension of glaciers necessarily causes the production of +vast moraines. Such generalisations cannot be sustained. + +We descended in our track to the Lac de Combal, and from thence went over +the Col de la Seigne to les Motets, where we slept; on July 13, crossed +the Col du Mont Tondu to Contamines (in a sharp thunderstorm), and the Col +de Voza to Chamounix. Two days only remained for excursions in this +neighbourhood, and we resolved to employ them in another attempt to ascend +the Aiguille d'Argentière, upon which mountain we had been cruelly +defeated just eight days before. + +It happened in this way.--Reilly had a notion that the ascent of the +Aiguille could be accomplished by following the ridge leading to its +summit from the Col du Chardonnet. At half-past six, on the morning of the +6th, we found ourselves accordingly on the top of that pass. The party +consisted of our friend Moore and his guide Almer, Reilly and his guide +François Couttet, myself and Michel Croz. So far the weather had been +calm, and the way easy; but immediately we arrived on the summit of the +pass, we got into a furious wind. Five minutes earlier we were warm,--now +we were frozen. Fine snow whirled up into the air penetrated every crack +in our harness, and assailed our skins as painfully as if it had been red +hot instead of freezing cold. The teeth chattered involuntarily--talking +was laborious; the breath froze instantaneously; eating was disagreeable; +sitting was impossible! + +We looked towards our mountain. Its aspect was not encouraging. The ridge +that led upwards had a spiked arête, palisaded with miniature aiguilles, +banked up at their bases by heavy snow-beds, which led down, at +considerable angles, on one side towards the Glacier de Saleinoz, on the +other towards the Glacier du Chardonnet. Under any circumstances, it would +have been a stiff piece of work to clamber up that way. Prudence and +comfort counselled, "Give it up." Discretion overruled valour. Moore and +Almer crossed the Col du Chardonnet to go to Orsières, and we others +returned towards Chamounix. + +But when we got some distance down, the evil spirit which prompts men to +ascend mountains tempted us to stop, and to look back at the Aiguille +d'Argentière. The sky was cloudless; no wind could be felt, nor sign of it +perceived; it was only eight o'clock in the morning; and there, right +before us, we saw another branch of the glacier leading high up into the +mountain--far above the Col du Chardonnet--and a little couloir rising from +its head almost to the top of the peak. This was clearly the right route +to take. We turned back, and went at it. + +The glacier was steep, and the snow gully rising out of it was steeper. +Seven hundred steps were cut. Then the couloir became _too_ steep. We took +to the rocks on its left, and at last gained the ridge, at a point about +1500 feet above the Col du Chardonnet. We faced about to the right, and +went along the ridge; keeping on some snow a little below its crest, on +the Saleinoz side. Then we got the wind again; yet no one thought of +turning, for we were within 250 feet of the summit. + +The axes of Croz and Couttet went to work once more, for the slope was +about as steep as snow-slope could be. Its surface was covered with a +loose, granular crust; dry and utterly incoherent; which slipped away in +streaks directly it was meddled with. The men had to cut through this into +the old beds underneath, and to pause incessantly to rake away the powdery +stuff, which poured down in hissing streams over the hard substratum. Ugh! +how cold it was! How the wind blew! Couttet's hat was torn from its +fastenings, and went on a tour in Switzerland. The flour-like snow, swept +off the ridge above, was tossed spirally upwards, eddying in _tourmentes_; +then, dropt in lulls, or caught by other gusts, was flung far and wide to +feed the Saleinoz. + +"My feet are getting suspiciously numbed," cried Reilly: "how about +frost-bites?" "Kick hard, sir," shouted the men; "it's the only way." +_Their_ fingers were kept alive by their work; but it was cold for the +feet, and they kicked and hewed simultaneously. I followed their example +too violently, and made a hole clean through my footing. A clatter +followed as if crockery had been thrown down a well. + +I went down a step or two, and discovered in a second that all were +standing over a cavern (not a crevasse, speaking properly) that was +bridged over by a thin vault of ice, from which great icicles hung in +groves. Almost in the same minute Reilly pushed one of his hands right +through the roof. The whole party might have tumbled through at any +moment. "Go ahead, Croz, we are over a chasm!" "We know it," he answered, +"and we can't find a firm place." + +In the blandest manner, my comrade inquired if to persevere would not be +to do that which is called "tempting Providence." My reply being in the +affirmative, he further observed, "Suppose we go down?" "Very willingly." +"Ask the guides." They had not the least objection; so we went down, and +slept that night at the Montanvert. + +Off the ridge we were out of the wind. In fact, a hundred feet down _to +windward_, on the slope fronting the Glacier du Chardonnet, we were +broiling hot; there was not a suspicion of a breeze. Upon that side there +was nothing to tell that a hurricane was raging a hundred feet higher,--the +cloudless sky looked tranquillity itself: whilst to leeward the only sign +of a disturbed atmosphere was the friskiness of the snow upon the crests +of the ridges. + +We set out on the 14th, with Croz, Payot, and Charlet, to finish off the +work which had been cut short so abruptly, and slept, as before, at the +Chalets de Lognan. On the 15th, about midday, we arrived upon the summit +of the aiguille, and found that we had actually been within one hundred +feet of it when we turned back upon the first attempt. + +It was a triumph to Reilly. In this neighbourhood he had performed the +feat (in 1863) of joining together "two mountains, each about 13,000 feet +high, standing on the map about a mile and a half apart." Long before we +made the ascent he had procured evidence which could not be impugned, that +the Pointe des Plines, a fictitious summit which had figured on other maps +as a distinct mountain, could be no other than the Aiguille d'Argentière, +and he had accordingly obliterated it from the preliminary draft of his +map. We saw that it was right to do so. The Pointe des Plines did not +exist. We had ocular demonstration of the accuracy of his previous +observations. + +I do not know which to admire most, the fidelity of Mr. Reilly's map, or +the indefatigable industry by which the materials were accumulated from +which it was constructed. To men who are sound in limb it may be amusing +to arrive on a summit (as we did upon the top of Mont Dolent), sitting +astride a ridge too narrow to stand upon; or to do battle with a ferocious +wind (as we did on the top of the Aiguille de Trélatête); or to feel +half-frozen in midsummer (as we did on the Aiguille d'Argentière). But +there is extremely little amusement in making sketches and notes under +such conditions. Yet upon all these expeditions, under the most adverse +circumstances, and in the most trying situations, Mr. Reilly's brain and +fingers were always at work. Throughout all he was ever alike; the same +genial, equable-tempered companion, whether victorious or whether +defeated; always ready to sacrifice his own desires to suit our comfort +and convenience. By a happy union of audacity and prudence, combined with +untiring perseverance, he eventually completed his self-imposed task--a +work which would have been intolerable except as a labour of love--and +which, for a single individual, may well-nigh be termed Herculean. + +We separated upon the level part of the Glacier d'Argentière, Reilly going +with Payot and Charlet _viâ_ the chalets of Lognan and de la Pendant, +whilst I, with Croz, followed the right bank of the glacier to the village +of Argentière.(143) At 7 P.M. we entered the humble inn, and ten minutes +afterwards heard the echoes of the cannon which were fired upon the +arrival of our comrades at Chamounix.(144) + + + + + + CHAPTER XI. + + + THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE MOMING PASS--ZINAL TO ZERMATT. + + + "A daring leader is a dangerous thing." + EURIPIDES. + + +On July 10, Croz and I went to Sierre, in the Valais, _viâ_ the Col de +Balme, the Col de la Forclaz, and Martigny. The Swiss side of the Forclaz +is not creditable to Switzerland. The path from Martigny to the summit has +undergone successive improvements in these latter years; but mendicants +permanently disfigure it. + +We passed many tired pedestrians toiling up this oven, persecuted by +trains of parasitic children. These children swarm there like maggots in a +rotten cheese. They carry baskets of fruit with which to plague the weary +tourist. They flit around him like flies; they thrust the fruit in his +face; they pester him with their pertinacity. Beware of them!--taste, touch +not their fruit. In the eyes of these children, each peach, each grape, is +worth a prince's ransom. It is to no purpose to be angry; it is like +flapping wasps--they only buzz the more. Whatever you do, or whatever you +say, the end will be the same. "Give me something," is the alpha and omega +of all their addresses. They learn the phrase, it is said, before they are +taught the alphabet. It is in all their mouths. From the tiny toddler up +to the maiden of sixteen, there is nothing heard but one universal chorus +of--"Give me something; will you have the goodness to give me something?" + +From Sierre we went up the Val d'Anniviers to Zinal, to join our former +companions, Moore and Almer. Moore was ambitious to discover a shorter way +from Zinal to Zermatt than the two passes which were known.(145) He had +shown to me, upon Dufour's map, that a direct line, connecting the two +places, passed exactly over the depression between the Zinal-Rothhorn and +the Schallhorn. He was confident that a passage could be effected over +this depression, and was sanguine that it would (in consequence of its +directness) prove to be a quicker route than the circuitous ones over the +Triftjoch and the Col Durand. + +He was awaiting us, and we immediately proceeded up the valley, and across +the foot of the Zinal glacier to the Arpitetta Alp, where a chalet was +supposed to exist in which we might pass the night. We found it at +length,(146) but it was not equal to our expectations. It was not one of +those fine timbered chalets, with huge overhanging eaves, covered with +pious sentences carved in unintelligible characters. It was a hovel, +growing, as it were, out of the hill-side; roofed with rough slabs of +slaty stone; without a door or window; surrounded by quagmires of ordure, +and dirt of every description. + +A foul native invited us to enter. The interior was dark; and, when our +eyes became accustomed to the gloom, we saw that our palace was in plan +about 15 by 20 feet; on one side it was scarcely five feet high, and on +the other was nearly seven. On this side there was a raised platform, +about six feet wide, littered with dirty straw and still dirtier +sheepskins. This was the bedroom. The remainder of the width of the +apartment was the parlour. The rest was the factory. Cheese was the +article which was being fabricated, and the foul native was engaged in its +manufacture. He was garnished behind with a regular cowherd's one-legged +stool, which gave him a queer, uncanny look when it was elevated in the +air as he bent over into his tub; for the making of his cheese required +him to blow into a tub for ten minutes at a time. He then squatted on his +stool to gain breath, and took a few whiffs at a short pipe; after which +he blew away more vigorously than before. We were told that this procedure +was necessary. It appeared to us to be nasty. It accounts, perhaps, for +the flavour possessed by certain Swiss cheeses. + +Big, black, and leaden-coloured clouds rolled up from Zinal, and met in +combat on the Moming glacier with others which descended from the +Rothhorn. Down came the rain in torrents, and crash went the thunder. The +herd-boys hurried under shelter, for the frightened cattle needed no +driving, and tore spontaneously down the Alp as if running a +steeple-chase. Men, cows, pigs, sheep, and goats forgot their mutual +animosities, and rushed to the only refuge on the mountain. The spell was +broken which had bound the elements for some weeks past, and the _cirque_ +from the Weisshorn to Lo Besso was the theatre in which they spent their +fury. + +A sullen morning succeeded an angry night. We were undecided in our +council whether to advance or to return down the valley. Good seemed +likely to overpower bad; so, at 5.40, we left the chalet _en route_ for +our pass [amidst the most encouraging assurances from all the people on +the Alp that we need not distress ourselves about the weather, as it was +not possible to get to the point at which we were aiming].(147) + +Our course led us at first over ordinary mountain slopes, and then over a +flat expanse of glacier. Before this was quitted, it was needful to +determine the exact line which was to be taken. We were divided betwixt +two opinions. I advocated that a course should be steered due south, and +that the upper plateau of the Moming glacier should be attained by making +a great detour to our right. This was negatived without a division. Almer +declared in favour of making for some rocks to the south-west of the +Schallhorn, and attaining the upper plateau of the glacier by mounting +them. Croz advised a middle course, up some very steep and broken glacier. +Croz's route seemed likely to turn out to be impracticable, because much +step-cutting would be required upon it. Almer's rocks did not look good; +they were, possibly, unassailable. I thought both routes were bad, and +declined to vote for either of them. Moore hesitated, Almer gave way, and +Croz's route was adopted. + +He did not go very far, however, before he found that he had undertaken +too much, and after [glancing occasionally round at us, to see what we +thought about it, suggested that it might, after all, be wiser to take to +the rocks of the Schallhorn]. That is to say, he suggested the abandonment +of his own and the adoption of Almer's route. No one opposed the change of +plan, and, in the absence of instructions to the contrary, he proceeded to +cut steps across an ice-slope towards the rocks. + +Let the reader now cast his eye upon the map of the Valley of Zermatt, and +he will see that when we quitted the slopes of the Arpitetta Alp, we took +a south-easterly course over the Moming glacier. We halted to settle the +plan of attack shortly after we got upon the ice. The rocks of the +Schallhorn, whose ascent Almer recommended, were then to our south-east. +Croz's proposed route was to the south-west of the rocks, and led up the +southern side of a very steep and broken glacier.(148) The part he +intended to traverse was, in a sense, undoubtedly practicable. He gave it +up because it would have involved too much step-cutting. But the part of +this glacier which intervened between his route and Almer's rocks was, in +the most complete sense of the word, impracticable. It passed over a +continuation of the rocks, and was broken in half by them. The upper +portion was separated from the lower portion by a long slope of ice that +had been built up from the débris of the glacier which had fallen from +above. The foot of this slope was surrounded by immense quantities of the +larger avalanche blocks. These we cautiously skirted, and when Croz halted +they had been left far below, and we were half-way up the side of the +great slope which led to the base of the ice-wall above. + +Across this ice-slope Croz now proceeded to cut. It was executing a flank +movement in the face of an enemy by whom we might be attacked at any +moment. The peril was obvious. It was a monstrous folly. It was +foolhardiness. A retreat should have been sounded.(149) + +"I am not ashamed to confess," wrote Moore in his Journal, "that during +the whole time we were crossing this slope my heart was in my mouth, and I +never felt relieved from such a load of care as when, after, I suppose, a +passage of about twenty minutes, we got on to the rocks and were in +safety.... I have never heard a positive oath come from Almer's mouth, but +the language in which he kept up a running commentary, more to himself +than to me, as we went along, was stronger than I should have given him +credit for using. His prominent feeling seemed to be one of _indignation_ +that we should be in such a position, and self-reproach at being a party +to the proceeding; while the emphatic way in which, at intervals, he +exclaimed, 'Quick; be quick,' sufficiently betokened his alarm." + +It was not necessary to admonish Croz to be quick. He was fully as alive +to the risk as any of the others. He told me afterwards, that this place +was the most dangerous he had ever crossed, and that no consideration +whatever would tempt him to cross it again. Manfully did he exert himself +to escape from the impending destruction. His head, bent down to his work, +never turned to the right or to the left. One, two, three, went his axe, +and then he stepped on to the spot where he had been cutting. How +painfully insecure should we have considered those steps at any other +time! But now, we thought only of the rocks in front, and of the hideous +_séracs_, lurching over above us, apparently in the act of falling. + +We got to the rocks in safety, and if they had been doubly as difficult as +they were, we should still have been well content. We sat down and +refreshed the inner man; keeping our eyes on the towering pinnacles of ice +under which we had passed; but which, now, were almost beneath us. Without +a preliminary warning sound, one of the largest--as high as the Monument at +London Bridge--fell upon the slope below. The stately mass heeled over as +if upon a hinge (holding together until it bent 30 degrees forwards), then +it crushed out its base, and, rent into a thousand fragments, plunged +vertically down upon the slope that we had crossed! Every atom of our +track, that was in its course, was obliterated; all the new snow was swept +away, and a broad sheet of smooth, glassy ice, showed the resistless force +with which it had fallen. + + [Illustration: ICE-AVALANCHE ON THE MOMING PASS.] + +It was inexcusable to follow such a perilous path, but it is easy to +understand why it was taken. To have retreated from the place where Croz +suggested a change of plan, to have descended below the reach of danger, +and to have mounted again by the route which Almer suggested, would have +been equivalent to abandoning the excursion; for no one would have passed +another night in the chalet on the Arpitetta Alp. "Many," says Thucydides, +"though seeing well the perils ahead, are forced along by fear of +dishonour--as the world calls it--so that, vanquished by a mere word, they +fall into irremediable calamities." Such was nearly the case here. No one +could say a word in justification of the course which was adopted; all +were alive to the danger that was being encountered; yet a grave risk was +deliberately--although unwillingly--incurred, in preference to admitting, by +withdrawal from an untenable position, that an error of judgment had been +committed. + +After a laborious trudge over many species of snow, and through many +varieties of vapour--from the quality of a Scotch mist to that of a London +fog--we at length stood on the depression between the Rothhorn and the +Schallhorn.(150) A steep wall of snow was upon the Zinal side of the +summit; but what the descent was like on the other side we could not tell, +for a billow of snow tossed over its crest by the western winds, suspended +o'er Zermatt with motion arrested, resembling an ocean-wave frozen in the +act of breaking, cut off the view.(151) + +Croz--held hard in by the others, who kept down the Zinal side--opened his +shoulders, flogged down the foam, and cut away the cornice to its junction +with the summit; then boldly leaped down, and called on us to follow him. + + [Illustration: SUMMIT OF THE MOMING PASS IN 1864.] + +It was well for us now that we had such a man as leader. An inferior or +less daring guide would have hesitated to enter upon the descent in a +dense mist; and Croz himself would have done right to pause had he been +less magnificent in _physique_. He acted, rather than said, "Where snow +lies fast, there man can go; where ice exists, a way may be cut; it is a +question of power; I have the power,--all you have to do is to follow me." +Truly, he did not spare himself, and could he have performed the feats +upon the boards of a theatre that he did upon this occasion, he would have +brought down the house with thunders of applause. Here is what Moore wrote +in _his_ Journal. + +[The descent bore a strong resemblance to the Col de Pilatte, but was very +much steeper and altogether more difficult, which is saying a good deal. +Croz was in his element, and selected his way with marvellous sagacity, +while Almer had an equally honourable and, perhaps, more responsible post +in the rear, which he kept with his usual steadiness.... One particular +passage has impressed itself on my mind as one of the most nervous I have +ever made. We had to pass along a crest of ice, a mere knife-edge,--on our +left a broad crevasse, whose bottom was lost in blue haze, and on our +right, at an angle of 70°, or more, a slope falling to a similar gulf +below. Croz, as he went along the edge, chipped small notches in the ice, +in which we placed our feet, with the toes well turned out, doing all we +knew to preserve our balance. While stepping from one of these precarious +footholds to another, I staggered for a moment. I had not really lost my +footing; but the agonised tone in which Almer, who was behind me, on +seeing me waver, exclaimed, "Slip not, sir!" gave us an even livelier +impression than we already had of the insecurity of the position.... One +huge chasm, whose upper edge was far above the lower one, could neither be +leaped nor turned, and threatened to prove an insuperable barrier. But +Croz showed himself equal to the emergency. Held up by the rest of the +party, he cut a series of holes for the hands and feet, down and along the +almost perpendicular wall of ice forming the upper side of the _schrund_. +Down this slippery staircase we crept, with our faces to the wall, until a +point was reached where the width of the chasm was not too great for us to +drop across. Before we had done, we got quite accustomed to taking flying +leaps over the _schrunds_.... To make a long story short; after a most +desperate and exciting struggle, and as bad a piece of ice-work as it is +possible to imagine, we emerged on to the upper plateau of the Hohlicht +glacier.] + +The glimpses which had been caught of the lower part of the Hohlicht +glacier were discouraging, so it was now determined to cross over the +ridge between it and the Rothhorn glacier. This was not done without great +trouble. Again we rose to a height exceeding 12,000 feet. Eventually we +took to the track of the despised Triftjoch, and descended by the +well-known, but rough, path which leads to that pass; arriving at the +Monte Rosa hotel at Zermatt at 7.20 P.M. We occupied nearly twelve hours +of actual walking in coming from the chalet on the Arpitetta Alp (which +was 2½ hours above Zinal), and we consequently found that the Moming pass +was not the shortest route from Zinal to Zermatt, although it was the most +direct. + + + +Two dozen guides--good, bad, and indifferent; French, Swiss, and +Italian--can commonly be seen sitting on the wall on the front of the Monte +Rosa hotel: waiting on their employers, and looking for employers; +watching new arrivals, and speculating on the number of francs which may +be extracted from their pockets. The _Messieurs_--sometimes strangely and +wonderfully dressed--stand about in groups, or lean back in chairs, or +lounge on the benches which are placed by the door. They wear +extraordinary boots, and still more remarkable head-dresses. Their peeled, +blistered, and swollen faces are worth studying. Some, by the exercise of +watchfulness and unremitting care, have been fortunate enough to acquire a +fine raw sienna complexion. But most of them have not been so happy. They +have been scorched on rocks, and roasted on glaciers. Their cheeks--first +puffed, then cracked--have exuded a turpentine-like matter, which has +coursed down their faces, and has dried in patches like the resin on the +trunks of pines. They have removed it, and at the same time have pulled +off large flakes of their skin. They have gone from bad to worse--their +case has become hopeless--knives and scissors have been called into play; +tenderly, and daintily, they have endeavoured to reduce their cheeks to +one, uniform hue. It is not to be done. But they have gone on, fascinated, +and at last have brought their unhappy countenances to a state of helpless +and complete ruin. Their lips are cracked; their cheeks are swollen; their +eyes are blood-shot; their noses are peeled and indescribable. + + [Illustration: THE CLUB-ROOM OF ZERMATT, IN 1864.] + +Such are the pleasures of the mountaineer! Scornfully and derisively the +last comer compares the sight with his own flaccid face and dainty hands; +unconscious that he too, perhaps, will be numbered with those whom he now +ridicules. + +There is a frankness of manner about these strangely-apparelled and +queer-faced men, which does not remind one of drawing-room, or city life; +and it is good to see--in this club-room of Zermatt--those cold bodies, our +too-frigid countrymen, regale together when brought into contact; and it +is pleasant to witness the hearty welcome given to the new-comers by the +host and his excellent wife.(152) + + + +I left this agreeable society to seek letters at the post. They yielded +disastrous intelligence. My holiday was brought to an abrupt termination, +and I awaited the arrival of Reilly (who was convoying the stores for the +attack on the Matterhorn) only to inform him that our arrangements were +upset; then travelled home, day and night, as fast as express trains would +carry me. + + + + + + CHAPTER XII. + + + THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE GRAND CORNIER. + + + "Ye crags and peaks, I'm with you once again! + . . . Methinks I hear + A spirit in your echoes answers me, + And bid your tenant welcome to his home + Again!" + S. KNOWLES. + + +Our career in 1864 had been one of unbroken success, but the great ascent +upon which I had set my heart was not attempted, and, until it was +accomplished, I was unsatisfied. Other things, too, influenced me to visit +the Alps once more. I wished to travel elsewhere, in places where the +responsibility of direction would rest with myself alone. It was well to +know how far my judgment in the choice of routes could be relied upon. + +The journey of 1865 was chiefly undertaken, then, to find out to what +extent I was capable to select paths over mountainous country. The +programme which was drawn up for this journey was rather ambitious, since +it included almost all of the great peaks which had not then been +ascended; but it was neither lightly undertaken nor hastily executed. All +pains were taken to secure success. Information was sought from those who +could give it, and the defeats of others were studied, that their errors +might be avoided. The results which followed came not so much, perhaps, +from luck, as from forethought and careful calculation. + +For success does not, as a rule, come by chance, and when one fails there +is a reason for it. But when any notable, or so-called brilliant thing is +done, we are too apt to look upon the success alone, without considering +how it was accomplished. Whilst, when men fail, we inquire why they have +not succeeded. So failures are oftentimes more instructive than successes, +and the disappointments of some become profitable to others. + +Up to a certain point, the programme was completely and happily carried +out. Nothing but success attended our efforts so long as the excursions +were executed as they had been planned. Most of them were made upon the +very days which had been fixed for them months beforehand; and all were +accomplished, comparatively speaking, so easily, that their descriptions +must be, in the absence of difficulty and danger, less interesting to the +general reader than they would have been if our course had been marked by +blunders and want of judgment. Before proceeding to speak of these +excursions, it will not be entirely useless to explain the reasons which +influenced the selection of the routes which were adopted upon them. + +In the course of the past five seasons my early practices were +revolutionised. My antipathy to snow was overcome, and my predilection for +rocks was modified. Like all those who are not mountaineers born, I was, +at the first, extremely nervous upon steep snow. The snow seemed bound to +slip, and all those who were upon it to go along with it. Snow of a +certain quality is undoubtedly liable to slip when it is at a certain +inclination.(153) The exact states which are dangerous, or safe, it is not +possible to describe in writing. That is only learnt by experience, and +confidence upon snow is not really felt until one has gained experience. +Confidence gradually came to me, and as it came so did my partiality for +rocks diminish. For it was evident, to use a common expression, that it +paid better to travel upon snow than upon rocks. This applies to snow-beds +pure and simple, or to snow which is lying over glacier; and in the +selection of routes it has, latterly, always been my practice to look for +the places where snow slopes, or snow-covered glaciers, reach highest into +mountains.(154) + +It is comparatively seldom, however, that an ascent of a great mountain +can be executed exclusively upon snow and glacier. Ridges peep through +which have to be surmounted. In my earlier scramblings I usually took to, +or was taken upon, the summits (or arêtes) of the ridges, and a good many +mountaineers habitually take to them on principle, as the natural and +proper way. According to my experience, it is seldom well to do so when +any other course is open. As I have already said, and presently shall +repeat more particularly, the crests of all the main ridges of the great +peaks of the Alps are shattered and cleft by frost; and it not +unfrequently happens that a notch in a ridge, which appears perfectly +insignificant from a distance, is found to be an insuperable barrier to +farther progress; and a great detour, or a long descent, has to be made to +avoid the obstacle. When committed to an arête one is tied, almost always, +to a particular course, from which it is difficult to deviate. Much loss +of time must result if any serious obstruction occurs; and defeat often +follows a temporary check. + +But it rarely happens that a great alpine peak is seen that is cut off +abruptly, in all directions, from the snows and glaciers which surround +it. In its gullies snow will cling, although its faces may be too steep +for the formation of permanent snow-beds. The merits of these snow-gullies +(or _couloirs_) have been already pointed out,(155) and it is hardly +necessary to observe, after that which was just now said about snow, that +ascents of snow-gullies (with proper precautions) are very much to be +preferred to ascents of rocky arêtes. + +By following the glaciers, the snow-slopes above, and the couloirs rising +from them, it is usually possible to get very close to the summits of the +great peaks in the Alps. The final climb will, perhaps, necessarily be by +an arête. The less of it the better. + +It occasionally occurs that considerable mountain slopes, or faces, are +destitute of snow-gullies. In that case it will, very likely, be best to +adhere to the faces (or to the gullies or minor ridges upon them) rather +than to take to the _great_ ridges. Upon a face one can move to the right +or to the left with more facility than upon the crest of a ridge; and when +a difficulty is arrived at, it is, consequently, less troublesome to +circumvent. + +In selecting the routes which were taken in 1865, I looked, first, for +places where glaciers and snow extended highest up into the mountains +which were to be ascended, or the ridges which were to be crossed. Next, +for gullies filled with snow leading still higher; and finally, from the +heads of the gullies we completed the ascents, whenever it was +practicable, by faces instead of by arêtes. The ascent of the Grand +Cornier (13,022), of the Dent Blanche (14,318), Grandes Jorasses (13,700), +Aiguille Verte (13,540), Ruinette (12,727), and the Matterhorn (14,780), +were all accomplished in this way; besides the other excursions which will +be referred to by and by. The route selected, before the start was made, +was in every case strictly followed out. + +We inspected all of these mountains from neighbouring heights before +entering upon their ascents. I explained to the guides the routes I +proposed to be taken, and (when the courses were at all complicated) +sketched them out on paper to prevent misunderstanding. In some few cases +they suggested variations, and in every case the route was well discussed. +The _execution_ of the work was done by the guides, and I seldom +interfered with, or attempted to assist in it. + + + +The 13th of June 1865 I spent in the valley of Lauterbrunnen with the Rev. +W. H. Hawker and the guides Christian and Ulrich Lauener; and on the 14th +crossed the Petersgrat with Christian Almer and Johann Tännler to Turtman +(Tourtemagne) in the Valais. Tännler was then paid off, as Michel Croz and +Franz Biener were awaiting me. + +It was not possible to find two leading guides who worked together more +harmoniously than Croz and Almer. Biener's part was subordinate to theirs, +and he was added as a convenience rather than as a necessity. Croz spoke +French alone, Almer little else than German. Biener spoke both languages, +and was useful on that account; but he seldom went to the front, excepting +during the early part of the day, when the work was easy, and he acted +throughout more as a porter than as a guide. + +The importance of having a reserve of power on mountain expeditions cannot +be too strongly insisted upon. We always had some in hand, and were never +pressed, or overworked, so long as we were together. Come what might, we +were ready for it. But by a series of chances, which I shall never cease +to regret, I was first obliged to part with Croz, and then to dismiss the +others;(156) and so, deviating from the course that I had deliberately +adopted, which was successful in practice because it was sound in +principle, became fortuitously a member of an expedition that ended with +the catastrophe which brings this book, and brought my scrambles amongst +the Alps, to a close.(157) + +On June 15 we went, from Turtman to Z'meiden, and thence over the +Forcletta pass to Zinal. We diverged from the summit of the pass up some +neighbouring heights to inspect the Grand Cornier, and I decided to have +nothing to do with its northern side. It seemed quite safe to pronounce it +inaccessible from that direction, although it was more than seven miles +away. + +On the 16th we left Zinal at 2.5 A.M., having been for a moment greatly +surprised by an entry in the hotel-book,(158) and ascending by the Zinal +glacier, and giving the base of our mountain a wide berth in order that it +might be better examined, passed gradually right round to its south, +before a way up it was seen.(159) At 8.30 we arrived upon the plateau of +the glacier that descends towards the east, between the Grand Cornier and +the Dent Blanche, and from this place a route was readily traced. We +steered to the north (as shown upon the map) over the glacier, towards the +ridge that descends to the east; gained it by mounting snow-slopes, and +followed it to the summit, which was arrived at before half-past twelve. +From first to last the route was almost entirely over snow. + +The ridges leading to the north and to the south from the summit of the +Grand Cornier, exhibited in a most striking manner the extraordinary +effects that may be produced by violent alternations of heat and cold. The +southern one was hacked and split into the wildest forms; and the northern +one was not less cleft and impracticable, and offered the droll piece of +rock-carving which is represented upon page 211. Some small blocks +actually tottered and fell before our eyes, and, starting others in their +downward course, grew into a perfect avalanche, which descended with a +solemn roar on to the glaciers beneath. + + [Illustration: PART OF THE SOUTHERN RIDGE OF THE GRAND CORNIER.] + +It is natural that the great ridges should present the wildest forms--not +on account of their dimensions, but by reason of their positions. They are +exposed to the fiercest heat of the sun, and are seldom in shadow as long +as it is above the horizon. They are entirely unprotected, and are +attacked by the strongest blasts and by the most intense cold. The most +durable rocks are not proof against such assaults. These grand, apparently +solid--eternal--mountains, seeming so firm, so immutable, are yet ever +changing and crumbling into dust. These shattered ridges are evidence of +their sufferings. Let me repeat that every principal ridge of every great +peak in the Alps amongst those I have seen has been shattered in this way; +and that every summit, amongst the rock-summits upon which I have stood, +has been nothing but a piled-up heap of fragments. + +The minor ridges do not usually present such extraordinary forms as the +principal ones. They are less exposed, and they are less broken up; and it +is reasonable to assume that their annual degradation is less than that of +the summit-ridges. + +The wear and tear does not cease even in winter, for these great ridges +are never completely covered up by snow,(160) and the sun has still power. +The destruction is incessant, and increases as time goes on; for the +greater the surfaces which are exposed to the practically inexhaustible +powers of sun and frost, the greater ruin will be effected. + + [Illustration: PART OF THE NORTHERN RIDGE OF THE GRAND CORNIER.] + +The rock-falls which are continually occurring upon all rock mountains +(such as are referred to upon pp. 29, 55) are, of course, caused by these +powers. No one doubts it; but one never believes it so thoroughly as when +the quarries are seen from which their materials have been hewn; and when +the germs, so to speak, of these avalanches have been seen actually +starting from above. + +These falls of rock take place from two causes. First, from the heat of +the sun detaching small stones or rocks which have been arrested on ledges +or slopes and bound together by snow or ice. I have seen such released +many times when the sun has risen high; fall gently at first, gather +strength, grow in volume, and at last rush down with a cloud trailing +behind, like the dust after an express train. Secondly, from the freezing +of the water which trickles, during the day, into the clefts, fissures, +and crannies. This agency is naturally most active in the night, and then, +or during very cold weather, the greatest falls take place.(161) + +When one has continually seen and heard these falls, it is easily +understood why the glaciers are laden with moraines. The wonder is, not +that they are sometimes so great, but that they are not always greater. +Irrespective of lithological considerations, one knows that this débris +cannot have been excavated _by_ the glaciers. The moraines are _borne_ by +glaciers, but they are _born_ from the ridges. They are generated by the +sun, and delivered by the frost. "Fire," it is well said in Plutarch's +life of Camillus, "is the most active thing in nature, and all generation +is motion, or at least, with motion; all other parts of matter without +warmth lie sluggish and dead, and crave the influence of heat as their +life, and when that comes upon them, they immediately acquire some active +or passive qualities."(162) + +If the Alps were granted a perfectly invariable temperature, if they were +no longer subjected, alternately, to freezing blasts and to scorching +heat, they might more correctly be termed "eternal." They might still +continue to decay, but their abasement would be much less rapid. + +When rocks are covered up by a sheet of glacier they do enjoy an almost +invariable temperature. The extremes of summer and winter are unknown to +rocks which are so covered up,--a range of a very few degrees is the most +that is possible underneath the ice.(163) There is, _then_, little or no +disintegration from unequal expansion and contraction. Frost, _then_, does +not penetrate into the heart of the rock, and cleave off vast masses. The +rocks, _then_, sustain grinding instead of cleaving. Atoms, _then_, come +away instead of masses. Fissures and overhanging surfaces are bridged, for +the ice cannot get at them; and after many centuries of grinding have been +sustained, we still find numberless angular surfaces (in the _lee-sides_) +which were fashioned before the ice began to work. + +The points of difference which are so evident between the operations of +heat, cold, and water, and those of glaciers upon rocks, are as follow. +The former take advantage of cracks, fissures, joints, and soft places; +the latter do not. The former can work _underneath_ overhanging masses; +the latter cannot. The effects produced by the former continually +_increase_, because they continually expose fresh surfaces by forming new +cracks, fissures, and holes. The effects which the latter produce +constantly _diminish_, because the area of the surfaces operated upon +becomes less and less, as they become smoother and flatter. + +What can one conclude, then, but that sun, frost, and water, have had +infinitely more to do than glaciers with the fashioning of mountain-forms +and valley-slopes? Who can refuse to believe that powers which are at work +everywhere, which have been at work always, which are so incomparably +active, capable, and enduring, must have produced greater effects than a +solitary power which is always local in its influence, which has worked, +_comparatively_, but for a short time, which is always slow and feeble in +its operations, and which constantly diminishes in intensity? + +Yet there are some who refuse to believe that sun, frost, and water have +played an important part in modelling the Alps, and hold it as an article +of their faith that the Alpine region "owes its present conformation +mainly to the action of its ancient glaciers"!(164) + + + +My reverie was interrupted by Croz observing that it was time to be off. +Less than two hours sufficed to take us to the glacier plateau below +(where we had left our baggage); three quarters of an hour more placed us +upon the depression between the Grand Cornier and the Dent Blanche (Col du +Grand Cornier(165)), and at 6 P.M. we arrived at Abricolla. Croz and +Biener hankered after milk, and descended to a village lower down the +valley; but Almer and I stayed where we were, and passed a chilly night on +some planks in a half-burnt chalet.(166) + + + + + + CHAPTER XIII. + + + THE ASCENT OF THE DENT BLANCHE. + + + "God help thee, Trav'ller, on thy journey far; + The wind is bitter keen,--the snow o'erlays + The hidden pits, and dang'rous hollow-ways, + And darkness will involve thee.--No kind star + To-night will guide thee."... + H. KIRKE WHITE. + + +Croz and Biener did not return until past 5 A.M. on June 17, and we then +set out at once for Zermatt, intending to cross the Col d'Hérens. But we +did not proceed far before the attractions of the Dent Blanche were felt +to be irresistible, and we turned aside up the steep lateral glacier which +descends along its south-western face. + +The Dent Blanche is a mountain that is little known except to the climbing +fraternity. It was, and is, reputed to be one of the most difficult +mountains in the Alps. Many attempts were made to scale it before its +ascent was accomplished. Even Leslie Stephen himself, fleetest of foot of +the whole Alpine brotherhood, once upon a time returned discomfited from +it. + + [Illustration: LESLIE STEPHEN.] + +It was not climbed until 1862; but in that year Mr. T. S. Kennedy, with +Mr. Wigram, and the guides Jean B. Croz(167) and Kronig, managed to +conquer it. They had a hard fight though before they gained the victory; a +furious wind and driving snow, added to the natural difficulties, nearly +turned the scale against them.(168) + +Mr. Kennedy started from Abricolla between 2 and 3 A.M. on July 18, 1862, +and ascending the glacier that is mentioned in the opening paragraph, went +towards the point marked 3912 mètres upon the map;(169) then turned to the +left (that is, to the north), and completed the ascent by the southern +ridge--that which overhangs the western side of the Schönbühl glacier. + +Mr. Kennedy described his expedition in a very interesting paper in the +_Alpine Journal_. His account bore the impress of truth; yet unbelievers +said that it was impossible to have told (in weather such as was +experienced) whether the summit had actually been attained, and sometimes +roundly asserted that the mountain, as the saying is, still remained +virgin. + +I did not share these doubts, although they influenced me to make the +ascent. I thought it might be possible to find an easier route than that +taken by Mr. Kennedy, and that if we succeeded in discovering one we +should be able at once to refute his traducers, and to vaunt our superior +wisdom. Actuated by these elevated motives, I halted my little army at the +foot of the glacier, and inquired, "Which is best for us to do?--to ascend +the Dent Blanche, or to cross to Zermatt?" They answered, with befitting +solemnity, "We think Dent Blanche is best." + +From the chalets of Abricolla the south-west face of the Dent Blanche is +regarded almost exactly in profile. From thence it is seen that the angle +of the face scarcely exceeds thirty degrees, and after observing this I +concluded that the face would, in all probability, give an easier path to +the summit than the crest of the very jagged ridge which was followed by +Mr. Kennedy. + +We zigzagged up the glacier along the foot of the face, and looked for a +way on to it. We looked for some time in vain, for a mighty _bergschrund_ +effectually prevented approach, and, like a fortress' moat, protected the +wall from assault. We went up and up, until, I suppose, we were not more +than a thousand feet below the point marked 3912 mètres; then a bridge was +discovered, and we dropped down on hands and knees to cross it. + + [Illustration: THE BERGSCHRUND ON THE DENT BLANCHE IN 1865] + +A bergschrund, it was said on p. 182, is a schrund, and something more +than a schrund. A schrund is simply a big crevasse. A bergschrund is +frequently, although not always, a big crevasse. The term is applied to +the last of the crevasses that one finds, in ascending, before quitting +the glacier, and taking to the rocks which bound it. It is the mountains' +schrund. Sometimes it is _very_ large, but early in the season (that is to +say in the month of June or before) bergschrunds are usually snowed up, or +well bridged over, and do not give much trouble. Later in the year, say in +August, they are frequently very great hindrances, and occasionally are +completely impassable. + +They are lines of rupture consequent upon unequal motion. The glaciers +below move quicker than the snow or ice which clings immediately to the +mountains; hence these fissures result. The slower motion of that which is +above can only be attributed to its having to sustain greater friction; +for the rule is that the upper portion is set at a steeper angle than the +lower. As that is the case, we should expect that the upper portion would +move _quicker_ than the lower, and it would do so, doubtless, but for the +retardation of the rocks over which, and through which, it passes.(170) + + + +We crossed the bergschrund of the Dent Blanche, I suppose, at a height of +about 12,000 feet above the level of the sea. Our work may be said to have +commenced at that point. The face, although not steep in its general +inclination, was so cut up by little ridges and cliffs, and so seamed with +incipient couloirs, that it had all the difficulty of a much more +precipitous slope. The difficulties were never great, but they were +numerous, and made a very respectable total when put together. We passed +the bergschrund soon after nine in the morning, and during the next eleven +hours halted only five-and-forty minutes. The whole of the remainder of +the time was occupied in ascending and descending the 2400 feet which +compose this south-western face; and inasmuch as 1000 feet per hour +(taking the mean of ascent and descent) is an ordinary rate of +progression, it is tolerably certain that the Dent Blanche is a mountain +of exceptional difficulty. + +The hindrances opposed to us by the mountain itself were, however, as +nothing compared with the atmospheric obstructions. It is true there was +plenty of, "Are you fast, Almer?" "Yes." "Go ahead, Biener." Biener, made +secure, cried, "Come on, sir," and _Monsieur_ endeavoured. "No, no," said +Almer, "not there,--_here_,"--pointing with his bâton to the right place to +clutch. Then 'twas Croz's turn, and we all drew in the rope as the great +man followed. "Forwards" once more--and so on. + +Five hundred feet of this kind of work had been accomplished when we were +saluted (not entirely unexpectedly) by the first gust of a hurricane which +was raging above. The day was a lovely one for dwellers in the valleys, +but we had, long ago, noted some light, gossamer clouds, that were +hovering round our summit, being drawn out in a suspicious manner into +long, silky threads. Croz, indeed, prophesied before we had crossed the +schrund, that we should be beaten by the wind, and had advised that we +should return. But I had retorted, "No, my good Croz, you said just now +'Dent Blanche is best'; we must go up the Dent Blanche." + +I have a very lively and disagreeable recollection of this wind. Upon the +outskirts of the disturbed region it was only felt occasionally. It then +seemed to make rushes at one particular man, and when it had discomfited +him, it whisked itself away to some far-off spot, only to return, +presently, in greater force than before. + +My old enemy--the Matterhorn--seen across the basin of the Z'Muttgletscher, +looked totally unassailable. "Do you think," the men asked, "that you, or +any one else, will ever get up _that_ mountain?" And when, undismayed by +their ridicule, I stoutly answered, "Yes, but not upon that side," they +burst into derisive chuckles. I must confess that my hopes sank; for +nothing can look more completely inaccessible than the Matterhorn on its +northern and north-west sides. + +"Forwards" once again. We overtopped the Dent d'Hérens. "Not a thousand +feet more; in three hours we shall be on the summit." "You mean _ten_," +echoed Croz, so slow had been the progress. But I was not far wrong in the +estimate. At 3.15 we struck the great ridge followed by Mr. Kennedy, close +to the top of the mountain. The wind and cold were terrible there. +Progress was oftentimes impossible, and we waited, crouching under the lee +of rocks, listening to "the shrieking of the mindless wind," while the +blasts swept across, tearing off the upper snow and blowing it away in +streamers over the Schönbühl glacier--"nothing seen except an indescribable +writhing in the air, like the wind made visible." + +Our goal was concealed by mist, although it was only a few yards away, and +Croz's prophecy, that we should stay all night upon the summit, seemed +likely to come true. The men rose with the occasion, although even _their_ +fingers had nearly lost sensation. There were no murmurings, nor +suggestions of return, and they pressed on for the little white cone which +they knew must be near at hand. Stopped again; a big mass perched loosely +on the ridge barred the way; we could not crawl over, and scarcely dared +creep round it. The wine went round for the last time. The liquor was +half-frozen,--still we would more of it. It was all gone; the bottle was +left behind, and we pushed on, for there was a lull. + +The end came almost before it was expected. The clouds opened, and I saw +that we were all but upon the highest point, and that, between us and it, +about twenty yards off, there was a little artificial pile of stones. +Kennedy was a true man,--it was a cairn which he had erected. "What is +that, Croz?" "_Homme des pierres_," he bawled. It was needless to proceed +farther; I jerked the rope from Biener, and motioned that we should go +back. He did the same to Almer, and we turned immediately. _They_ did not +see the stones (they were cutting footsteps), and misinterpreted the +reason of the retreat. Voices were inaudible, and explanations +impossible.(171) + +We commenced the descent of the face. It was hideous work. The men looked +like impersonations of Winter, with their hair all frosted, and their +beards matted with ice. My hands were numbed--dead. I begged the others to +stop. "_We cannot afford to stop; we must continue to move_," was their +reply. They were right; to stop was to be entirely frozen. So we went +down; gripping rocks varnished with ice, which pulled the skin from the +fingers. Gloves were useless; they became iced too, and the bâtons slid +through them as slippery as eels. The iron of the axes stuck to the +fingers--it felt red-hot; but it was useless to shrink, the rocks and the +axes had to be firmly grasped--no faltering would do here. + +We turned back at 4.12 P.M., and at 8.15 crossed the bergschrund again, +not having halted for a minute upon the entire descent. During the last +two hours it was windless, but time was of such vital importance that we +pressed on incessantly, and did not stop until we were fairly upon the +glacier. Then we took stock of what remained of the tips of our fingers. +There was not much skin left; they were perfectly raw, and for weeks +afterwards I was reminded of the ascent of the Dent Blanche by the twinges +which I felt when I pulled on my boots. The others escaped with some +slight frost-bites; and, altogether, we had reason to congratulate +ourselves that we got off so lightly. The men complimented me upon the +descent, and I could do the same honestly to them. If they had worked less +vigorously, or harmoniously, we should have been benighted upon the face, +where there was not a single spot upon which it was possible to sit; and +if that had happened, I do not think that one would have survived to tell +the tale. + +We made the descent of the glacier in a mist, and of the moraine at its +base, and of the slopes below, in total darkness, and regained the chalets +of Abricolla at 11.45 P.M. We had been absent eighteen and a half hours, +and out of that time had been going not less than seventeen. That night we +slept the sleep of those who are thoroughly tired.(172) + + + + [Illustration: T. S. KENNEDY.] + +Two days afterwards, when walking into Zermatt, whom should we meet but +Mr. Kennedy. "Hullo!" we said, "we have just seen your cairn on the top of +the Dent Blanche." "No, you haven't," he answered, very positively. "What +do you mean?" "Why, that you cannot have seen my cairn, because I didn't +make one!" "Well, but we saw _a_ cairn." "No doubt; it was made by a man +who went up the mountain last year with Lauener and Zurfluh," "O-o-h," we +said, rather disgusted at hearing news when we expected to communicate +some, "O-o-h! good morning, Kennedy." Before this happened, we managed to +lose our way upon the Col d'Hérens; but an account of that must be +reserved for the next chapter. + + + + + + CHAPTER XIV. + + + LOST ON THE COL D'HÉRENS.--MY SEVENTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN. + + + "Oh! ye immortal gods, where in the world are we?" + CICERO. + + +We should have started for Zermatt about 7 A.M. on the 18th, had not +Biener asked to be allowed to go to mass at Evolène, a village about two +and a half hours from Abricolla. He received permission, on the condition +that he returned not later than mid-day, but he did not come back until +2.30 P.M., and we thereby got into a pretty little mess. + +The pass which we were about to traverse to Zermatt--the Col d'Hérens--is +one of the few glacier-passes in this district which have been known +almost from time immemorial. It is frequently crossed in the summer +season, and is a very easy route, notwithstanding that the summit of the +pass is 11,417 feet above the level of the sea.(173) + +From Abricolla to the summit the way lies chiefly over the flat Glacier de +Ferpècle. The walk is of the most straightforward kind. The glacier rises +in gentle undulations; its crevasses are small and easily avoided; and all +you have to do, after once getting upon the ice, is to proceed due south, +in the most direct manner possible. If you do so, in two hours you should +be upon the summit of the pass. + +We tied ourselves in line, of course, when we entered upon the glacier, +and placed Biener to lead, as he had frequently crossed the pass; +supposing that his local knowledge might save us some time upon the other +side. We had proceeded, I believe, about half-way up, when a little, thin +cloud dropped down upon us from above. It was so light and gauzy, that we +did not for a moment suppose it would become embarrassing, and hence I +neglected to note at the proper moment the course which we should +steer,--that is to say, to observe our precise situation, in regard to the +summit of the pass. + +For some little time Biener progressed steadily, making a tolerably +straight track; but at length he wavered, and deviated sometimes to the +right, and sometimes to the left. Croz rushed forward directly he saw +this, and taking the poor young man by his shoulders gave him a good +shaking, told him that he was an imbecile, to untie himself at once, and +to go to the rear. Biener looked half-frightened, and obeyed without a +murmur. Croz led off briskly, and made a good straight track for a few +minutes. Then, it seemed to me, he began to move steadily round to the +left. I looked back, but the mist was now too thick to see our traces, and +so we continued to follow our leader. At last the others (who were behind, +and in a better position to judge) thought the same as I did, and we +pulled up Croz to deliver our opinion. He took our criticism in good part, +but when Biener opened his mouth that was too much for him to stand, and +he told the young man again, "_You_ are imbecile; I bet you twenty francs +to one that _my_ track is better than _yours_; twenty francs, now then, +imbecile!" + +Almer went to the front. He commenced by returning in the track for a +hundred yards or so, and then started off at a tangent from Croz's curve. +We kept this course for half-an-hour, and then were certain that we were +not on the right route, because the snow became decidedly steep. We bore +away more and more to the right, to avoid this steep bank, but at last I +rebelled, as we had for some time been going almost south-west, which was +altogether the wrong direction. After a long discussion we returned some +distance in our track, and then steered a little east of south, but we +continually met steep snow-slopes, and to avoid them went right or left as +the case might require. + +We were greatly puzzled, and could not in the least tell whether we were +too near the Dent Blanche or too close to the Tête Blanche. The mists had +thickened, and were now as dense as a moderate London fog. There were no +rocks or echoes to direct us, and the guidance of the compass brought us +invariably against these steep snow-banks. The men were fairly beaten; +they had all had a try, or more than one, and at last gave it up as a bad +job, and asked what was to be done. It was 7.30 P.M. and only an hour of +daylight was left. We were beginning to feel used up, for we had wandered +about at tip-top speed for the last three hours and a half, so I said, +"This is my advice; let us turn in our track, and go back as hard as ever +we can, not quitting the track for an instant." They were well content, +but just as we were starting off, the clouds lifted a little, and we +thought we saw the Col. It was then to our right, and we went at it with a +dash. Before we had gone a hundred paces down came the mist again. We kept +on nevertheless for twenty minutes, and then, as darkness was perceptibly +coming on, and the snow was yet rising in front, we turned back, and by +running down the entire distance managed to get clear of the Ferpècle +glacier just as it became pitch dark. We arrived at our cheerless chalet +in due course, and went to bed supperless, for our food was gone; all very +sulky--not to say savage--agreeing in nothing except in bullying Biener. + +At 7 A.M. on the 19th, we set out, for the third time, for the Col +d'Hérens. It was a fine day, and we gradually recovered our tempers as we +saw the follies which had been committed on the previous evening. Biener's +wavering track was not so bad; but Croz had swerved from the right route +from the first, and had traced a complete semicircle, so that when we +stopped him we were facing Abricolla--whence we had started. Almer had +commenced with great discretion; but he kept on too long, and crossed the +proper route. When I stopped them (because we were going south-west), we +were a long way up the Tête Blanche! Our last attempt was in the right +direction; we were actually upon the summit of the pass, and in another +ten yards we should have commenced to go down hill! It is needless to +point out that if the compass had been looked to at the proper moment--that +is, immediately the mist came down--we should have avoided all our +troubles. It was little use afterwards, except to tell us when we were +going _wrong_. We arrived at Zermatt in six and a half hours' walking from +Abricolla, and Seller's hospitable reception set us all right again. + +On the 20th we crossed the Théodule pass, and diverged from its summit up +the Théodulhorn (11,391) to examine a route which I suggested for the +ascent of the Matterhorn. Before continuing an account of our proceedings, +I must stop for a minute to explain why this new route was proposed, in +place of that up the south-western ridge. + +The main peak of the Matterhorn may be divided into three sections.(174) +The first, facing the Z'Muttgletscher, looks completely unassailable; the +second, facing the east, seems inaccessibility itself; whilst the third, +facing Breil, does not look entirely hopeless. It was from this last +direction that all my previous attempts were made. It was by the +south-western ridge, it will be remembered, that not only I, but Mr. +Hawkins, Professor Tyndall, and the chasseurs of Val Tournanche, essayed +to climb the mountain. Why then abandon a route which had been shown to be +feasible up to a certain point? + +I gave it up for four reasons. 1. On account of my growing disinclination +for arêtes, and preference for snow and rock-faces (see Chap. XII.). 2. +Because I was persuaded that meteorological disturbances (by which we had +been baffled several times) might be expected to occur again and +again(175) (see Chaps. IV. and VI.). 3. Because I found that the east face +was a gross imposition--it looked not far from perpendicular; while its +angle was, in fact, scarcely more than 40°. 4. Because I observed for +myself that the strata of the mountain dipped to the west-south-west. It +is not necessary to say anything more than has been already said upon the +first two of these four points, but upon the latter two a few words are +indispensable. Let us consider, first, why most persons receive such an +exaggerated impression of the steepness of the eastern face. + + [Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE RIFFELBERG.] + +When one looks at the Matterhorn from Zermatt, the mountain is regarded +(nearly) from the north-east. The face that fronts the east is +consequently neither seen in profile nor in full front, but almost +half-way between the two; it looks, therefore, more steep than it really +is. The majority of those who visit Zermatt go up to the Riffelberg, or to +the Gornergrat, and from these places, the mountain naturally looks still +more precipitous, because its eastern face (which is almost all that is +seen of it) is viewed more directly in front. From the Riffel hotel the +slope seems to be set at an angle of 70°. If the tourist continues to go +southwards, and crosses the Théodule pass, he gets, at one point, +immediately in front of the eastern face, which then seems to be +absolutely perpendicular. Comparatively few persons correct the erroneous +impressions they receive in these quarters by studying the face in +profile, and most go away with a very incorrect and exaggerated idea of +the precipitousness of this side of the mountain, because they have +considered the question from one point of view alone. + +Several years passed away before I shook myself clear of my early and +false impressions regarding the steepness of this side of the Matterhorn. +First of all, I noticed that there were places on this eastern face where +snow remained permanently all the year round. I do not speak of snow in +gullies, but of the considerable slopes which are seen upon the +accompanying engraving, about half-way up the face. Such beds as these +could not continue to remain throughout the summer, unless the snow had +been able to accumulate in the winter in large masses; and snow cannot +accumulate and remain in large masses, in a situation such as this, at +angles much exceeding 45°.(176) Hence I was bound to conclude that the +eastern face was many degrees removed from perpendicularity; and, to be +sure on this point, I went to the slopes between the Z'Muttgletscher and +the Matterhorngletscher, above the chalets of Staffel, whence the face +could be seen in profile. Its appearance from this direction would be +amazing to one who had seen it only from the east. It looks so totally +different from the apparently sheer and perfectly unclimbable cliff one +sees from the Riffelberg, that it is hard to believe the two slopes are +one and the same thing. Its angle scarcely exceeds 40°. + +A great step was made when this was learnt. This knowledge alone would +not, however, have caused me to try an ascent by the eastern face instead +of by the south-west ridge. Forty degrees may not seem a formidable +inclination to the reader, nor is it for only a small cliff. But it is +very unusual to find so steep a gradient maintained continuously as the +general angle of a great mountain-slope, and very few instances can be +quoted from the High Alps of such an angle being preserved over a rise of +3000 feet. + +I do not think that the steepness or the height of this cliff would have +deterred climbers from attempting to ascend it, if it had not, in +addition, looked so repulsively smooth. Men despaired of finding anything +to grasp. Now, some of the difficulties of the south-west ridge came from +the smoothness of the rocks, although that ridge, even from a distance, +seemed to be well broken up. How much greater, then, might not have been +the difficulty of climbing a face which looked smooth and unbroken close +at hand? + +A more serious hindrance to mounting the south-west ridge is found in the +dip of its rocks to the west-south-west. The great mass of the Matterhorn, +it is now well ascertained, is composed of regularly stratified +rocks,(177) which rise towards the east. It has been mentioned in the +text, more than once, that the rocks on some portions of the ridge leading +from the Col du Lion to the summit dip outwards, and that fractured edges +overhang.(178) This is shown in the illustrations facing pp. 76 and 84; +and the annexed diagram, Fig. 1, exhibits the same thing still more +clearly. It will be readily understood that such an arrangement is not +favourable for climbers, and that the degree of facility with which rocks +can be ascended that are so disposed, must depend very much upon the +frequency or paucity of fissures and joints. The rocks of the south-west +ridge are sufficiently provided with cracks, but if it were otherwise, +their texture and arrangement would render them unassailable.(179) + + [Illustration: Diagrams to show dip of strata on the Matterhorn] + +It is not possible to go a single time upon the rocks of the south-west +ridge, from the Col du Lion to the foot of the Great Tower, without +observing the prevalence of their outward dip, and that their fractured +edges have a tendency to overhang; nor can one fail to notice that it is +upon this account the débris, which is rent off by frost, does not remain +_in situ_, but pours down in showers over the surrounding cliffs. Each +day's work, so to speak, is cleared away; the ridge is swept clean; there +is scarcely anything seen but firm rock.(180) + +The fact that the mountain is composed of a series of stratified beds was +pointed out long ago. De Saussure remarked it, and recorded explicitly, in +his _Travels_ (§ 2243), that they "rose to the north-east at an angle of +about 45°." Forbes noticed it also; and gave it as his opinion that the +beds were "less inclined, or nearly horizontal." He added, "De Saussure is +no doubt correct."(181) The truth, I think, lies between the two. + +I was acquainted with both of the above-quoted passages, but did not turn +the knowledge to any practical account until I re-observed the same fact +for myself. It was not until after my repulse in 1863, that I referred the +peculiar difficulties of the south-west ridge to the dip of the strata; +but when once persuaded that structure and not texture was the real +impediment, it was reasonable to infer that the opposite side, that is to +say the eastern face, might be comparatively easy. In brief, that an +arrangement should be found like Fig. 2, instead of like Fig. 1. This +trivial deduction was the key to the ascent of the Matterhorn. + +The point was, Did the strata continue with a similar dip throughout the +mountain? If they did, then this great eastern face, instead of being +hopelessly impracticable, should be quite the reverse.--In fact, it should +be a great natural staircase, with steps inclining inwards; and, if it +were so, its smooth aspect might be of no account, for the smallest steps, +inclined in this fashion, would afford good footing. + +They did so, as far as one could judge from a distance. When snow fell in +the summer time, it brought out long, terraced lines upon the mountain; +rudely parallel to each other; inclined in the direction shown +(approximately) upon the figures in the accompanying plate; and the +eastern face, on those occasions, was often whitened almost completely +over; while the other sides, with the exception of the powdered terraces, +remained black--for the snow could not rest upon them. + + [Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE THEODULE PASS.] + + [Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE NORTH-EAST.] + + + THE SPACES BETWEEN THE PARALLEL RED LINES REPRESENT ON AN AVERAGE + A VERTICAL HEIGHT OF ABOUT 60 FEET, BUT, ON ACCOUNT OF + FORESHORTENING, THE HEIGHT BETWEEN THE UPPERMOST LINES IS SOMEWHAT + MORE THAN THIS AMOUNT. + + +The very outline of the mountain, too, confirmed the conjecture that its +structure would assist an ascent on the eastern face, although it opposed +one on all other sides. Look at any photograph of the peak from the +north-east (or, failing one, the outline facing page 230, which is +carefully traced from one), and you will see that upon the right-hand side +(that facing the Z'Muttgletscher) there is an incessant repetition of +overhanging cliffs, and of slopes all trending downwards; in short, that +the character of the whole of that side is similar to Fig. 1, p. 229; and +that upon the left hand (or south-east) ridge, the forms, as far as they +go, are suggestive of the structure of Fig. 2. There is no doubt that the +contours of the mountain, seen from this direction, have been largely +influenced by the direction of its beds. + + + +It was not, therefore, from a freak, that I invited Mr. Reilly to join in +an attack upon the eastern face, but from a gradually-acquired conviction +that it would prove to give the easiest path to the summit; and, if we had +not been obliged to part, the mountain would, doubtless, have been +ascended in 1864. + + + +My guides readily admitted that they had been greatly deceived as to the +steepness of the eastern face, when they were halted to look at it in +profile, as we came down the Z'Muttgletscher, on our way to Zermatt; but +they were far from being satisfied that it would turn out to be easy to +climb, and Almer and Biener expressed themselves decidedly averse to +making an attempt upon it. I gave way temporarily before their evident +reluctance, and we made the ascent of the Théodulhorn to examine an +alternative route, which I expected would commend itself to them in +preference to the other, as a great part of it led over snow. + +There is an immense gully in the Matterhorn, which leads up from the +Glacier du Mont Cervin to a point high up on the south-eastern ridge.(182) +I proposed to ascend this to its head, and to cross over the south-east +ridge on to the eastern face. This would have brought us on a level with +the bottom of the great snow-slope shown upon the centre of the eastern +face in the engraving facing p. 227. This snow-slope was to be crossed +diagonally, with the view of arriving at the snow upon the north-east +ridge, which is shown upon the same engraving, about half-an-inch from the +summit. The remainder of the ascent was to be made by the broken rocks, +mixed with snow, upon the north side of the mountain. Croz caught the idea +immediately, and thought the plan feasible; details were settled, and we +descended to Breil. Luc Meynet, the hunchback, was summoned, and expressed +himself delighted to resume his old vocation of tent-bearer; and Favre's +kitchen was soon in commotion preparing three days' rations, for I +intended to take that amount of time over the affair--to sleep on the first +night upon the rocks at the top of the gully; to make a push for the +summit, and to return to the tent on the second day; and upon the third to +come back to Breil. + +We started at 5.45 A.M. on June 21, and followed the route of the +Breuiljoch(183) for three hours. We were then in full view of our gully, +and turned off at right angles for it. The closer we approached, the more +favourable did it look. There was a good deal of snow in it, which was +evidently at a small angle, and it seemed as if one-third of the ascent, +at least, would be a very simple matter. Some suspicious marks in the snow +at its base suggested that it was not free from falling stones, and, as a +measure of precaution, we turned off on one side, worked up under cover of +the cliffs, and waited to see if anything should descend. Nothing fell, so +we proceeded up its right or northern side, sometimes cutting steps up the +snow and sometimes mounting by the rocks. Shortly before 10 A.M. we +arrived at a convenient place for a halt, and stopped to rest upon some +rocks, immediately close to the snow, which commanded an excellent view of +the gully. + +While the men were unpacking the food I went to a little promontory to +examine our proposed route more narrowly, and to admire our noble couloir, +which led straight up into the heart of the mountain for fully one +thousand feet. It then bent towards the north, and ran up to the crest of +the south-eastern ridge. My curiosity was piqued to know what was round +this corner, and whilst I was gazing up at it, and following with the eye +the exquisitely drawn curves which wandered down the snow in the gully, +all converging to a large rut in its centre, I saw a few little stones +skidding down. I consoled myself with thinking that they would not +interfere with us if we adhered to the side. But then a larger one came +down, a solitary fellow, rushing at the rate of sixty miles an hour--and +another--and another. I was unwilling to raise the fears of the men +unnecessarily, and said nothing to them. They did not hear the stones. +Almer was seated on a rock, carving large slices from a leg of mutton, the +others were chatting, and the first intimation they had of danger was from +a crash--a sudden roar--which reverberated awfully amongst the cliffs, and, +looking up, they saw masses of rocks, boulders and stones, big and little, +dart round the corner eight hundred feet or so above us, fly with fearful +fury against the opposite cliffs, rebound from them against the walls on +our side, and descend; some ricochetting from side to side in a frantic +manner; some bounding down in leaps of a hundred feet or more over the +snow; and others trailing down in a jumbled, confused mass, mixed with +snow and ice, deepening the grooves which, a moment before, had excited my +admiration. + +The men looked wildly around for protection, and, dropping the food, +dashed under cover in all directions. The precious mutton was pitched on +one side, the wine-bag was let fall, and its contents gushed out from the +unclosed neck, whilst all four cowered under defending rocks, endeavouring +to make themselves as small as possible. Let it not be supposed that their +fright was unreasonable, or that I was free from it. I took good care to +make myself safe, and went and cringed in a cleft until the storm had +passed. But their scramble to get under shelter was indescribably +ludicrous. Such a panic I have never witnessed, before or since, upon a +mountain-side.(184) + +This ricochet practice was a novelty to me. It arose, of course, from the +couloir being bent, and from the falling rocks having acquired great pace +before they passed the angle. In straight gullies it will, probably, never +be experienced. The rule is, as I have already remarked, that falling +stones keep down the centres of gullies, and they are out of harm's way if +one follows the sides. + + [Illustration: MY TENT-BEARER--THE HUNCHBACK.] + +There would have been singularly little amusement, and very great risk, in +mounting this gully, and we turned our backs upon it with perfect +unanimity. The question then arose, "What is to be done?" I suggested +climbing the rocks above us, but this was voted impossible. I thought the +men were right, yet would not give in without being assured of the fact, +and clambered up to settle the question. In a few minutes I was brought to +a halt. My forces were scattered; the little hunchback alone was closely +following me--with a broad grin upon his face, and the tent upon his +shoulder; Croz, more behind, was still keeping an eye upon his _Monsieur_; +Almer, a hundred feet below, sat on a rock with his face buried in his +hands; Biener was nowhere, out of sight. "Come down, come down," shouted +Croz; "it is useless," and I turned at length, convinced that it was even +as he said. Thus my little plan was knocked on the head, and we were +thrown back upon the original scheme. + +We at once made a straight track for Mr. Morshead's Breuiljoch(185) (which +was the most direct route to take in order to get to the Hörnli, where we +intended to sleep, preparatory to attacking the eastern face), and arrived +upon its summit at 12.30 P.M. We were then unexpectedly checked. The pass, +as one, had vanished! and we found ourselves cut off from the +Furggengletscher by a small but precipitous wall of rock;--the glacier had +shrunk so much that descent was impracticable. During the last hour clouds +had been coming up from the south; they now surrounded us, and it began to +blow hard. The men clustered together, and advocated leaving the mountain +alone. Almer asked, with more point than politeness, "Why don't you try to +go up a mountain which _can_ be ascended?" "It is impossible," chimed in +Biener. "Sir," said Croz, "if we cross to the other side we shall lose +three days, and very likely shall not succeed. You want to make ascents in +the chain of Mont Blanc, and I believe they can be made. But I shall not +be able to make them with you if I spend these days here, for I must be at +Chamounix on the 27th." There was force in what he said, and his words +made me hesitate. I relied upon his strong arms for some work which it was +expected would be unusually difficult. Snow began to fall; that settled +the matter, and I gave the word to retreat. We went back to Breil, and on +to the village of Val Tournanche, where we slept; and the next day +proceeded to Chatillon, and thence up the Valley of Aosta to Courmayeur. + +I cannot but regret that the counsels of the guides prevailed. If Croz had +not uttered his well-intentioned words, he might still have been living. +He parted from us at Chamounix at the appointed time, but by a strange +chance we met again at Zermatt three weeks later, and two days afterwards +he perished before my eyes on the very mountain from which we turned away, +at his advice, on the 21st of June. + + + +On June 23 we mounted to the top of Mont Saxe, to scan the Grandes +Jorasses, with the view of ascending it. Five thousand feet of +glacier-covered precipices rose above us, and up all that height we +tracked a way to our satisfaction. Three thousand feet more of glacier and +forest-covered slopes lay beneath, and _there_, there was only one point +at which it was doubtful if we should find a path. The glaciers were +shrinking, and were surrounded by bastions of rounded rock, far too +polished to please the rough mountaineer. We could not track a way across +them. However, at 4 A.M. the next day, under the dexterous leading of +Michel Croz, we passed the doubtful spot. Thence it was all plain sailing, +and at 1 P.M. we gained the summit. The weather was boisterous in the +upper regions, and storm-clouds driven before the wind, and wrecked +against our heights, enveloped us in misty spray, which danced around and +fled away, which cut us off from the material universe, and caused us to +be, as it were, suspended betwixt heaven and earth, seeing both +occasionally, but seeming to belong to neither. + +The mists lasted longer than my patience, and we descended without having +attained the object for which the ascent was made. At first we followed +the little ridge shown upon the accompanying engraving, leading from our +summit towards the spectator, and then took to the head of the corridor of +glacier on its left, which in the view is left perfectly white. The slopes +were steep and covered with new-fallen snow, flour-like and evil to tread +upon. On the ascent we had reviled it, and had made our staircase with +much caution, knowing full well that the disturbance of its base would +bring down all that was above. In descending, the bolder spirits +counselled trusting to luck and a glissade; the cautious ones advocated +avoiding the slopes and crossing to the rocks on their farther side. The +advice of the latter prevailed, and we had half-traversed the snow, to +gain the ridge, when the crust slipped and we went along with it. "Halt!" +broke from all four, unanimously. The axe-heads flew round as we started +on this involuntary glissade. It was useless, they slid over the +underlying ice fruitlessly. "Halt!" thundered Croz, as he dashed his +weapon in again with superhuman energy. No halt could be made, and we slid +down slowly, but with accelerating motion, driving up waves of snow in +front, with streams of the nasty stuff hissing all around. Luckily, the +slope eased off at one place, the leading men cleverly jumped aside out of +the moving snow, we others followed, and the young avalanche which we had +started, continuing to pour down, fell into a yawning crevasse, and showed +us where our grave would have been if we had remained in its company five +seconds longer. The whole affair did not occupy half-a-minute. It was the +solitary incident of a long day, and at nightfall we re-entered the +excellent house kept by the courteous Bertolini, well satisfied that we +had not met with more incidents of a similar description.(186) + + [Illustration: THE GRANDES JORASSES AND THE DOIRE TORRENT, FROM THE + ITALIAN VAL FERRET.] + + + + + + CHAPTER XV. + + + THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DOLENT. + + + "Men willingly believe what they wish."--CÆSAR. + + +Freethinking mountaineers have been latterly in the habit of going up one +side of an Alp and coming down the other, and calling the route a pass. In +this confusion of ideas may be recognised the result of the looseness of +thought which arises from the absence of technical education. The true +believer abhors such heresies, and observes with satisfaction that +Providence oftentimes punishes the offenders for their greediness by +causing them to be benighted. The faithful know that passes must be made +_between_ mountains, and not over their tops. Their creed declares that +between any two mountains there _must_ be a pass, and they believe that +the end for which big peaks were created--the office they are especially +designed to fulfil--is to point out the way one should go. This is the true +faith, and there is no other. + +We set out upon the 26th of June to endeavour to add one more to the +passes which are strictly orthodox. We hoped, rather than expected, to +discover a quicker route from Courmayeur to Chamounix than the Col du +Géant, which was the easiest, quickest, and most direct pass known at the +time across the main chain of Mont Blanc.(187) The misgivings which I had +as to the result caused us to start at the unusual hour of 12.40 A.M. At +4.30 we passed the chalets of Prè du Bar, and thence, for some distance, +followed the track which we had made upon the ascent of Mont Dolent, over +the glacier of the same name (p. 182). At a quarter past 8 we arrived at +the head of the glacier, and at the foot of the only steep gradient upon +the whole of the ascent. + +It was the beau-ideal of a pass. There was a gap in the mountains, with a +big peak on each side (Mount Dolent and the Aig. de Triolet). A narrow +thread of snow led up to the lowest point between those mountains, and the +blue sky beyond said, Directly you arrive here you will begin to go down. +We addressed ourselves to our task, and at 10.15 A.M. arrived at the top +of the pass. + +Had things gone as they ought, within six hours more we should have been +at Chamounix. Upon the other side we knew that there was a couloir in +correspondence with that up which we had just come. If it had been filled +with snow all would have been well. It turned out to be filled with ice. +Croz, who led, passed over to the other side, and reported that we should +get down somehow, but I knew from the sound of his axe how the somehow +would be, and settled myself to sketch, well assured that _I_ should not +be wanted for an hour to come. What I saw is shown in the engraving. A +sharp aiguille (nameless), perhaps the sharpest in the whole range, backed +on the left by the Aig. de Triolet; queer blocks of (probably) protogine +sticking out awkwardly through the snow; and a huge cornice from which big +icicles depended, that broke away occasionally and went skiddling down the +slope up which we had come. Of the Argentière side I could not see +anything. + +Croz was tied up with our good Manilla rope, and the whole 200 feet were +payed out gradually by Almer and Biener before he ceased working. After +two hours' incessant toil, he was able to anchor himself to the rock on +his right. He then untied himself, the rope was drawn in, Biener was +attached to the end and went down to join his comrade. There was then room +enough for me to stand by the side of Almer, and I got my first view of +the other side. For the first and only time in my life I looked down a +slope more than a thousand feet long, set at an angle of about 50°, which +was a sheet of ice from top to bottom. It was unbroken by rock or crag, +and anything thrown down it sped away unarrested until the level of the +Glacier d'Argentière was reached. The entire basin of that noble +glacier(188) was spread out at our feet, and the ridge beyond, culminating +in the Aig. d'Argentière, was seen to the greatest advantage. I confess, +however, that I paid very little attention to the view, for there was no +time to indulge in such luxuries. I descended the icy staircase and joined +the others, and then we three drew in the rope tenderly as Almer came +down. His was not an enviable position, but he descended with as much +steadiness as if his whole life had been passed on ice-slopes of 50°. The +process was repeated; Croz again going to the front, and availing himself +very skilfully of the rocks which projected from the cliff on our right. +Our 200 feet of rope again came to an end, and we again descended one by +one. From this point we were able to clamber down by the rocks alone for +about 300 feet. They then became sheer cliff, and we stopped for dinner, +about 2.30 P.M., at the last place upon which we could sit. Four hours' +incessant work had brought us rather more than half-way down the gully. We +were now approaching, although we were still high above, the schrunds at +its base, and the guides made out, in some way unknown to me, that Nature +had perversely placed the only snow-bridge across the topmost one towards +the centre of the gully. It was decided to cut diagonally across the gully +to the point where the snow-bridge was supposed to be. Almer and Biener +undertook the work, leaving Croz and myself firmly planted on the rocks to +pay out the rope to them as they advanced. + + [Illustration: THE SUMMIT OF THE COL DOLENT.] + +It is generally admitted that veritable ice-slopes (understanding by ice +something more than a crust of hard snow over soft snow) are only rarely +met with in the Alps. They are frequently spoken of, but such as that to +which I refer are _very_ rarely seen, and still more seldom traversed. It +is, however, always possible that they may be encountered, and on this +account, if for no other, it is necessary for men who go mountaineering to +be armed with ice-axes, and with good ones. The form is of more importance +than might be supposed. Of course, if you intend to act as a simple +amateur, and let others do the work, and only follow in their steps, it is +not of much importance what kind of ice-axe you carry, so long as its head +does not fall off, or otherwise behave itself improperly.(189) There is no +better weapon for cutting steps in ice than a common pick-axe, and the +form of ice-axe which is now usually employed by the best guides is very +like a miniature pick. My own axe is copied from Melchior Anderegg's. It +is of wrought iron, with point and edge steeled. Its weight, including +spiked handle, is four pounds. For cutting steps in ice, the pointed end +of the head is almost exclusively employed; the adze-end is handy for +polishing them up, but is principally used for cutting in hard snow. Apart +from its value as a cutting weapon, it is invaluable as a grapnel. It is +naturally a rather awkward implement when it is not being employed for its +legitimate purpose, and is likely to give rise to much strong language in +crushes at railway termini, unless its head is protected with a leathern +cap, or in some other way. Many attempts have been made, for the sake of +convenience, to fashion an ice-axe with a movable head, but it seems +difficult or impossible to produce one except at the expense of cutting +qualities, and by increasing the weight. + + [Illustration: MY ICE-AXE.] + + [Illustration: KENNEDY ICE-AXE.] + + [Illustration: THE "LESLIE STEPHEN" AXE.] + +Mr. T. S. Kennedy (of the firm of Fairbairn & Co.), whose practical +acquaintance with mountaineering, and with the use and manufacture of +tools, makes his opinion particularly valuable, has contrived the best +that I have seen; but even it seems to me to be deficient in rigidity, and +not to be so powerful a weapon as the more common kind with the fixed +head. The simple instrument which is shown in the annexed diagram is the +invention of Mr. Leslie Stephen, and it answers the purposes for which he +devised it, namely, for giving better hold upon snow and ice than can be +obtained from the common alpenstock, and for cutting an occasional step. +The amateur scarcely requires anything more imposing, but for serious +ice-work a heavier weapon is indispensable. + +To persons armed with the proper tools, ice-slopes are not so dangerous as +many places which appeal less to the imagination. Their ascent or descent +is necessarily laborious (to those who do the work), and they may +therefore be termed difficult. They _ought_ not to be dangerous. Yet they +always seem dangerous, for one is profoundly convinced that if he slips he +will certainly go to the bottom. Hence, any man, who is not a fool, takes +particular care to preserve his balance, and, in consequence, we have the +noteworthy fact that accidents have seldom or never taken place upon +ice-slopes. + +The same slopes covered with snow are much less impressive, and _may_ be +much more dangerous. They may be less slippery, the balance may be more +easily preserved, and if one man slips he may be stopped by his own +personal efforts, provided the snow which over-lies the ice is +consolidated and of a reasonable depth. But if, as is more likely to be +the case upon an angle of 50° (or anything approaching that angle), there +is only a thin stratum of snow which is not consolidated, the occurrence +of a slip will most likely take the entire party as low as possible, and +in addition to the chance of broken necks, there will be a strong +probability that some, at least, will be smothered by the dislodged snow. +Such accidents are far too common, and their occurrence, as a rule, may be +traced to the want of caution which is induced by the apparent absence of +danger. + +I do not believe that the use of the rope, in the ordinary way, affords +the least _real_ security upon ice-slopes. Nor do I think that any benefit +is derived from the employment of crampons. Mr. Kennedy was good enough to +present me with a pair some time ago, and one of these has been engraved. +They are the best variety I have seen of the species, but I only feel +comfortable with them on my feet in places where they are not of the +slightest use, that is in situations where there is no possibility of +slipping, and would not wear them upon an ice-slope for any consideration +whatever. All such adventitious aids are useless if you have not a good +step in the ice to stand upon, and if you have got that, nothing more is +wanted except a few nails in the boots. + + [Illustration: Crampon] + +Almer and Biener got to the end of their tether; the rope no longer +assured their safety, and they stopped work as we advanced and coiled it +up. Shortly afterwards they struck a streak of snow that proved to be just +above the bridge of which they were in search. The slope steepened, and +for thirty feet or so we descended face to the wall, making steps by +kicking with the toes, and thrusting the arms well into the holes above, +just as if they had been rounds in a ladder. At this time we were crossing +the uppermost of the schrunds. Needless to say that the snow was of an +admirable quality; this performance would otherwise have been impossible. +It was soon over, and we then found ourselves upon a huge rhomboidal mass +of ice, and still separated from the Argentière glacier by a gigantic +crevasse. The only bridge over this lower schrund was at its eastern end, +and we were obliged to double back to get to it. Cutting continued for +half-an-hour after it was passed, and it was 5.35 P.M. before the axes +stopped work, and we could at last turn back and look comfortably at the +formidable slope upon which seven hours had been spent.(190) + +The Col Dolent is not likely to compete with the Col du Géant, and I would +recommend any person who starts to cross it to allow himself plenty of +time, plenty of rope, and ample guide-power. There is no difficulty +whatever upon any part of the route, excepting upon the steep slopes +immediately below the summit on each side. When we arrived upon the +Glacier d'Argentière, our work was as good as over. We drove a straight +track to the chalets of Lognan, and thence the way led over familiar +ground. Soon after dusk we got into the high road at les Tines, and at 10 +P.M. arrived at Chamounix. Our labours were duly rewarded. Houris brought +us champagne and the other drinks which are reserved for the faithful, but +before my share was consumed I fell asleep in an arm-chair. I slept +soundly until daybreak, and then turned into bed and went to sleep again. + + + + + + CHAPTER XVI. + + + THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE VERTE. + + + "Few have the fortitude of soul to honour, + A friend's success, without a touch of envy." + ÆSCHYLUS. + + +Michel Croz now parted from us. His new employer had not arrived at +Chamounix, but Croz considered that he was bound by honour to wait for +him, and thus Christian Almer, of Grindelwald, became my leading guide. + +Almer displayed aptitude for mountaineering at an early age. Whilst still +a very young man he was known as a crack chamois-hunter, and he soon +developed into an accomplished guide. Those who have read Mr. Wills' +graphic account of the first ascent of the Wetterhorn(191) will remember +that, when his party was approaching the top of the mountain, two stranger +men were seen climbing by a slightly different route, one of whom carried +upon his back a young fir-tree, branches, leaves, and all. Mr. Wills' +guides were extremely indignant with these two strangers (who were +evidently determined to be the first at the summit), and talked of giving +them blows. Eventually they gave them a cake of chocolate instead, and +declared that they were good fellows. "Thus the pipe of peace was smoked, +and tranquillity reigned between the rival forces." Christian Almer was +one of these two men. + +This was in 1854. In 1858-9 he made the first ascents of the Eigher and +the Mönch, the former with a Mr. Harrington (?), and the latter with Dr. +Porges. Since then he has wandered far and near, from Dauphiné to the +Tyrol.(192) With the exception of Melchior Anderegg, there is not, +perhaps, another guide of such wide experience, or one who has been so +invariably successful; and his numerous employers concur in saying that +there is not a truer heart or a surer foot to be found amongst the Alps. + + [Illustration: CHRISTIAN ALMER.(193)] + +Before recrossing the chain to Courmayeur, we ascended the Aiguille Verte. +In company with Mr. Reilly I inspected this mountain from every direction +in 1864, and came to the conclusion that an ascent could more easily be +made from the south than upon any other side. We set out upon the 28th +from Chamounix to attack it, minus Croz, and plus a porter (of whom I will +speak more particularly presently), leaving our comrade very downcast at +having to kick his heels in idleness, whilst we were about to scale the +most celebrated of his native Aiguilles. + +Our course led us over the old Mer de Glace--the glacier made famous by De +Saussure and Forbes. The heat of the day was over, but the little rills +and rivulets were still flowing along the surface of the ice: cutting deep +troughs where the gradients were small; leaving ripple-marks where the +water was with more difficulty confined to one channel; and falling over +the precipitous walls of the great crevasses, sometimes in bounding +cascades, and sometimes in diffused streams, which marked the +perpendicular faces with graceful sinuosities.(194) As night came on, +their music died away, the rivulets dwindled down to rills; the rills +ceased to murmur, and the sparkling drops, caught by the hand of frost, +were bound to the ice, coating it with an enamelled film which lasted +until the sun struck the glacier once more. + + [Illustration: ON THE MER DE GLACE.] + +We camped on the Couvercle (7800) under a great rock, and at 3.15 the next +morning started for our aiguille, leaving the porter in charge of the tent +and of the food. Two hours' walking over crisp snow brought us up more +than 4000 feet, and within about 1600 feet of the summit. From no other +direction can it be approached so closely with equal facility. Thence the +mountain steepens. After his late severe piece of ice-work, Almer had a +natural inclination for rocks; but the lower rocks of the final peak of +the Verte were not inviting, and he went on and on, looking for a way up +them, until we arrived in front of a great snow couloir that led from the +Glacier de Talèfre right up to the crest of the ridge connecting the +summit of the Verte with the mountain called Les Droites. This was the +route which I intended to be taken; but Almer pointed out that the gully +narrowed at the lower part, and that, if stones fell, we should stand some +chance of getting our heads broken; and so we went on still more to the +east of the summit, to another and smaller couloir which ran up side by +side with the great one. At 5.30 we crossed the schrund which protected +the final peak, and, a few minutes afterwards, saw the summit and the +whole of the intervening route. "Oh! Aiguille Verte," said my guide, +stopping as he said it, "you are dead, you are dead;" which, being +translated into plain English, meant that he was cock-sure we should make +its ascent. + +Almer is a quiet man at all times. When climbing he is taciturn--and this +is one of his great merits. A garrulous man is always a nuisance, and upon +the mountain-side he may be a danger, for actual climbing requires a man's +whole attention. Added to this, talkative men are hindrances; they are +usually thirsty, and a thirsty man is a drag. + +Guide-books recommend mountain-walkers to suck pebbles, to prevent their +throats from becoming parched. There is not much goodness to be got out of +the pebbles; but you cannot suck them and keep the mouth open at the same +time, and hence the throat does not become dry. It answers just as well to +keep the mouth shut, without any pebbles inside,--indeed, I think, better; +for if you have occasion to open your mouth, you can do so without +swallowing any pebbles.(195) As a rule, amateurs, and particularly +novices, _will not_ keep their mouths shut. They attempt to "force the +pace," they go faster than they can go without being compelled to open +their mouths to breathe, they pant, their throats and tongues become +parched, they drink and perspire copiously, and, becoming exhausted, +declare that the dryness of the air, or the rarefaction of the air +(everything is laid upon the air), is in fault. On several accounts, +therefore, a mountain-climber does well to hold his tongue when he is at +his work. + +At the top of the small gully we crossed over the intervening rocks into +the large one, and followed it so long as it was filled with snow. At last +ice replaced snow, and we turned over to the rocks upon its left. Charming +rocks they were; granitic in texture,(196) gritty, holding the nails well. +At 9.45 we parted from them, and completed the ascent by a little ridge of +snow which descended in the direction of the Aiguille du Moine. At 10.15 +we stood on the summit (13,540), and devoured our bread and cheese with a +good appetite. + +I have already spoken of the disappointing nature of purely panoramic +views. That seen from Mont Blanc itself is notoriously unsatisfactory. +When you are upon that summit you look down upon all the rest of Europe. +There is nothing to look up to; all is below; there is no one point for +the eye to rest upon. The man who is there is somewhat in the position of +one who has attained all that he desires,--he has nothing to aspire to; his +position must needs be unsatisfactory. Upon the summit of the Verte there +is not this objection. You see valleys, villages, fields; you see +mountains interminable rolling away, lakes resting in their hollows; you +hear the tinkling of the sheep-bells as it rises through the clear +mountain air, and the roar of the avalanches as they descend to the +valleys: but above all there is the great white dome, with its shining +crest high above; with its sparkling glaciers that descend between +buttresses which support them: with its brilliant snows, purer and yet +purer the farther they are removed from this unclean world.(197) + +Even upon this mountain-top it was impossible to forget the world, for +some vile wretch came to the Jardin and made hideous sounds by blowing +through a horn. Whilst we were denouncing him a change came over the +weather; cumulous clouds gathered in all directions, and we started off in +hot haste. Snow began to fall heavily before we were off the summit-rocks, +our track was obscured and frequently lost, and everything became so +sloppy and slippery that the descent took as long as the ascent. The +schrund was recrossed at 3.15 P.M., and thence we raced down to the +Couvercle, intending to have a carouse there; but as we rounded our rock a +howl broke simultaneously from all three of us, for the porter had taken +down the tent, and was in the act of moving off with it. "Stop, there! +what are you doing?" He observed that he had thought we were killed, or at +least lost, and was going to Chamounix to communicate his ideas to the +_guide chef_. "Unfasten the tent, and get out the food." Instead of doing +so the porter fumbled in his pockets. "Get out the food," we roared, +losing all patience. "Here it is," said our worthy friend, producing a +dirty piece of bread about as big as a halfpenny roll. We three looked +solemnly at the fluff-covered morsel. It was past a joke,--he had devoured +everything. Mutton, loaves, cheese, wine, eggs, sausages--all was gone--past +recovery. It was idle to grumble, and useless to wait. We were light, and +could move quickly,--the porter was laden inside and out. We went our +hardest,--he had to shuffle and trot. He streamed with perspiration; the +mutton and cheese oozed out in big drops,--he larded the glacier. We had +our revenge, and dried our clothes at the same time, but when we arrived +at the Montanvert the porter was as wet as we had been upon our arrival at +the Couvercle. We halted at the inn to get a little food, and at a quarter +past eight re-entered Chamounix, amidst firing of cannon and other +demonstrations of satisfaction on the part of the hotel-keepers. + +One would have thought that the ascent of this mountain, which had been +frequently assailed before without success, would have afforded some +gratification to a population whose chief support is derived from +tourists, and that the prospect of the perennial flow of francs which +might be expected to result from it would have stifled the jealousy +consequent on the success of foreigners.(198) + +It was not so. Chamounix stood on its rights. A stranger had ignored the +"regulations," had imported two foreign guides, and, furthermore, he had +added injury to that insult--he had not taken a single Chamounix guide. +Chamounix would be revenged! It would bully the foreign guides; it would +tell them they had lied,--that they had not made the ascent! Where were +their proofs? Where was the flag upon the summit? + +Poor Almer and Biener were accordingly chivied from pillar to post, from +one inn to another, and at length complained to me. Peter Perrn, the +Zermatt guide, said on the night that we returned that this was to happen, +but the story seemed too absurd to be true. I now bade my men go out +again, and followed them myself to see the sport. Chamounix was greatly +excited. The _bureau_ of the _guide chef_ was thronged with clamouring +men. Their ringleader--one Zacharie Cachat--a well-known guide, of no +particular merit, but not a bad fellow, was haranguing the multitude. He +met with more than his match. My friend Kennedy, who was on the spot, +heard of the disturbance and rushed into the fray, confronted the burly +guide, and thrust back his absurdities into his teeth. + +There were the materials for a very pretty riot; but they manage these +things better in France than we do, and the gensdarmes--three strong--came +down and dispersed the crowd. The guides quailed before the cocked hats, +and retired to cabarets to take little glasses of absinthe and other +liquors more or less injurious to the human frame. Under the influence of +these stimulants, they conceived an idea which combined revenge with +profit. "You have ascended the Aiguille Verte, you say. _We_ say we don't +believe it. _We_ say, do it again! Take three of us with you, and we will +bet you two thousand francs to one thousand, that you won't make the +ascent!" + +This proposition was formally notified to me, but I declined it, with +thanks, and recommended Kennedy to go in and win. I accepted, however, a +hundred franc share in the bet, and calculated upon getting two hundred +per cent on my investment. Alas! how vain are human expectations! Zacharie +Cachat was put into confinement, and although Kennedy actually ascended +the Aiguille a week later, with two Chamounix guides and Peter Perrn, the +bet came to nothing.(199) + +The weather arranged itself just as this storm in a teapot blew over, and +we left at once for the Montanvert, in order to show the Chamouniards the +easiest way over the chain of Mont Blanc, in return for the civilities +which we had received from them during the past three days. + + [Illustration: WESTERN SIDE OF THE COL DE TALÈFRE.] + + + + + + CHAPTER XVII. + + + THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DE TALÈFRE. + + + "'Tis more by art than force of numerous strokes." + HOMER. + + +The person who discovered the Col du Géant must have been a shrewd +mountaineer. The pass was in use before any other was known across the +main chain of Mont Blanc, and down to the present time it remains the +easiest and quickest route from Chamounix to Courmayeur, with the single +exception of the pass that we crossed upon the 3d of July, for the first +time, which lies about mid-way between the Aiguille de Triolet and the +Aiguille de Talèfre, and which, for want of a better name, I have called +the Col de Talèfre. + +When one looks toward the upper end of the Glacier de Talèfre from the +direction of the Jardin or of the Couvercle, the ridge that bounds the +view seems to be of little elevation. It is overpowered by the colossal +Grandes Jorasses, and by the almost equally magnificent Aiguille Verte. +The ridge, notwithstanding, is by no means despicable. At no point is its +elevation less than 11,600 feet. It does not look anything like this +height. The Glacier de Talèfre mounts with a steady incline, and the eye +is completely deceived. + +In 1864, when prowling about with Mr. Reilly, I instinctively fixed upon a +bent couloir which led up from the glacier to the lowest part of the +ridge; and when, after crossing the Col de Triolet, I saw that the other +side presented no particular difficulty, it seemed to me that this was the +_one_ point in the whole of the range which would afford an easier passage +than the Col du Géant. + +We set out from the Montanvert at 4 A.M. upon July 3, to see whether this +opinion was correct, and it fortunately happened that the Rev. A. G. +Girdlestone and a friend, with two Chamounix guides, left the inn at the +same hour as ourselves, to cross the Col du Géant. We kept in company as +far as our routes lay together, and at 9.35 we arrived at the top of our +pass, having taken the route to the south of the Jardin. Description is +unnecessary, as our track is laid down very clearly on the engraving at +the head of this chapter. + +Much snow had fallen during the late bad weather, and as we reposed upon +the top of our pass (which was about 11,650 feet above the level of the +sea, and 600 feet above the Col du Géant), we saw that the descent of the +rocks which intervened between us and the Glacier de Triolet would require +some caution, for the sun's rays poured down directly upon them, and the +snow slipped away every now and then from ledge to ledge just as if it had +been water,--in cascades not large enough to be imposing, but sufficient to +knock us over if we got in their way. This little bit of cliff +consequently took a longer time than it should have done, for when we +heard the indescribable swishing, hissing sound which announced a coming +fall, we of necessity huddled under the lee of the rocks until the snow +ceased to shoot over us. + +We got to the level of the Glacier de Triolet without misadventure, then +steered for its left bank to avoid the upper of its two formidable +ice-falls, and after descending the requisite distance by some old snow +lying between the glacier and the cliffs which border it, crossed directly +to the right bank over the level ice between the two ice-falls.(200) The +right bank was gained without any trouble, and we found there numerous +beds of hard snow (avalanche débris) down which we could run or glissade +as fast as we liked. + +Glissading is a very pleasant employment when it is accomplished +successfully, and I have never seen a place where it can be more safely +indulged in than the snowy valley on the right bank of the Glacier de +Triolet. In my dreams I glissade delightfully, but in practice I find that +somehow the snow will not behave properly, and that my alpenstock _will_ +get between my legs. Then my legs go where my head should be, and I see +the sky revolving at a rapid pace; the snow rises up and smites me, and +runs away; and when it is at last overtaken it suddenly stops, and we come +into violent collision. Those who are with me say that I tumble head over +heels, and there may be some truth in what they say. Streaks of ice are +apt to make the heels shoot away, and stray stones cause one to pitch +headlong down. Somehow these things always seem to come in the way, so it +is as well to glissade only when there is something soft to tumble +into.(201) + + [Illustration: Glissading] + +Near the termination of the glacier we could not avoid traversing a +portion of its abominable moraine, but at 1.30 P.M. we were clear of it, +and threw ourselves upon some springy turf conscious that our day's work +was over. An hour afterwards we resumed the march, crossed the Doire +torrent by a bridge a little below Gruetta, and at five o'clock entered +Courmayeur, having occupied somewhat less than ten hours on the way. Mr. +Girdlestone's party came in, I believe, about four hours afterwards, so +there was no doubt that we made a shorter pass than the Col du Géant; and +I believe we discovered a quicker way of getting from Chamounix to +Courmayeur, or _vice versa_, than will be found elsewhere, so long as the +chain of Mont Blanc remains in its present condition.(202) + + + + + + CHAPTER XVIII. + + + THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE RUINETTE--THE MATTERHORN. + + + "In almost every art, experience is worth more than precepts." + QUINTILIAN. + + +All of the excursions that were set down in my programme had been carried +out, with the exception of the ascent of the Matterhorn, and we now turned +our faces in its direction, but instead of returning _viâ_ the Val +Tournanche, we took a route across country, and bagged upon our way the +summit of the Ruinette. + +We passed the night of July 4, at Aosta, under the roof of the genial +Tairraz, and on the 5th went by the Val d'Ollomont and the Col de la +Fenêtre (9140) to Chermontane. We slept that night at the chalets of +Chanrion (a foul spot, which should be avoided), left them at 3.50 the +next morning, and after a short scramble over the slope above, and a +half-mile tramp on the glacier de Breney, we crossed directly to the +Ruinette, and went almost straight up it. There is not, I suppose, another +mountain in the Alps of the same height that can be ascended so easily. +You have only to go ahead: upon its southern side one can walk about +almost anywhere. + +Though I speak thus slightingly of a very respectable peak, I will not do +anything of the kind in regard to the view which it gives. It is happily +placed in respect to the rest of the Pennine Alps, and as a stand-point it +has not many superiors. You see mountains, and nothing but mountains. It +is a solemn--some would say a dreary--view, but it is very grand. The great +Combin (14,164), with its noble background of the whole range of Mont +Blanc, never looks so big as it does from here. In the contrary direction, +the Matterhorn overpowers all besides. The Dent d'Hérens, although closer, +looks a mere outlier of its great neighbour, and the snows of Monte Rosa, +behind, seem intended for no other purpose than to give relief to the +crags in front. To the south there is an endless array of Bec's and +Becca's, backed by the great Italian peaks, whilst to the north Mont +Pleureur (12,159) holds it own against the more distant Wildstrubel. + +We gained the summit at 9.15,(203) and stayed there an hour and a half. My +faithful guides then admonished me that Prerayen, whither we were bound, +was still far away, and that we had yet to cross two lofty ridges. So we +resumed our harness and departed; not, however, before a huge cairn had +been built out of the blocks of gneiss with which the summit is bestrewn. +Then we trotted down the slopes of the Ruinette, over the glacier de +Breney, and across a pass which (if it deserves a name) may be called the +Col des Portons, after the neighbouring peaks. Thence we proceeded across +the great Otemma glacier towards the Col d'Olen. + +The part of the glacier that we traversed was overspread with snow which +completely concealed its numerous pitfalls. We marched across it in single +file, and, of course, roped together. All at once Almer dropped into a +crevasse up to his shoulders. I pulled in the rope immediately, but the +snow gave way as it was being done, and I had to spread out my arms to +stop my descent. Biener held fast, and said afterwards, that his feet went +through as well; so, for a moment, all three were in the jaws of the +crevasse. We now altered our course, so as to take the fissures +transversely, and changed it again after the centre of the glacier was +passed, and made directly for the summit of the Col d'Olen. + +It is scarcely necessary to observe, after what I have said before, that +it is my invariable practice to employ a rope when traversing a +snow-covered glacier. Many guides, even the best ones, object to be roped, +more especially early in the morning, when the snow is hard. They object +sometimes, because they think it is unnecessary. Crevasses that are +bridged by snow are almost always more or less perceptible by undulations +on the surface; the snow droops down, and hollows mark the courses of the +chasms beneath. An experienced guide usually notices these almost +imperceptible wrinkles, steps one side or the other, as the case may +require, and rarely breaks through unawares. Guides think there is no +occasion to employ a rope because they think that they will not be taken +by surprise. Michel Croz used to be of this opinion. He used to say that +only imbeciles and children required to be tied up in the morning. I told +him that in this particular matter I was a child to him. "You see these +things, my good Croz, and avoid them. I do _not_, except you point them +out to me, and so that which is not a danger to you, _is_ a danger to me." +The sharper one's eyes get by use, the less is a rope required as a +protective against these hidden pitfalls; but, according to my experience, +the sight never becomes so keen that they can be avoided with unvarying +certainty, and I mentioned what occurred upon the Otemma glacier to show +that this is so. + +I well remember my first passage of the Col Théodule--the easiest of the +higher Alpine glacier passes. We had a rope, but my guide said it was not +necessary, he knew all the crevasses. However, we did not go a quarter of +a mile before he dropped through the snow into a crevasse up to his neck. +He was a heavy man, and would scarcely have extricated himself alone; +anyhow, he was very glad of my assistance. When he got on to his legs +again, he said, "Well, I had no idea that there was a crevasse there!" He +no longer objected to use the rope, and we proceeded; upon my part, with +greater peace of mind than before. I have crossed the pass fourteen times +since then, and have invariably insisted upon being tied together. + +Guides object to the use of the rope upon snow-covered glacier, because +they are afraid of being laughed at by their comrades; and this, perhaps, +is the more common reason. To illustrate this, here is another Théodule +experience. We arrived at the edge of the ice, and I required to be tied. +My guide (a Zermatt man of repute) said that no one used a rope going +across that pass. I declined to argue the matter, and we put on the rope; +though very much against the wish of my man, who protested that he should +have to submit to perpetual ridicule if we met any of his acquaintances. +We had not gone very far before we saw a train coming in the contrary +direction. "Ah!" cried my man, "there is R---- (mentioning a guide who used +to be kept at the Riffel Hotel for the ascent of Monte Rosa); it will be +as I said, I shall never hear the end of this." The guide we met was +followed by a string of tom-fools, none of whom were tied together, and +had his face covered by a mask to prevent it becoming blistered. After we +had passed, I said, "Now, should R---- make any observations to you, ask him +why he takes such extraordinary care to preserve the skin of his face, +which will grow again in a week, when he neglects such an obvious +precaution in regard to his life, which he can only lose once." This was +quite a new idea to my guide, and he said nothing more against the use of +the rope so long as we were together. + +I believe that the unwillingness to use a rope upon snow-covered glacier +which born mountaineers not unfrequently exhibit, arises--First, on the +part of expert men, from the consciousness that they themselves incur +little risk; secondly, on the part of inferior men, from fear of ridicule, +and from aping the ways of their superiors; and, thirdly, from pure +ignorance or laziness. Whatever may be the reason, I raise up my voice +against the neglect of a precaution so simple and so effectual. In my +opinion, the very first thing a glacier traveller requires is plenty of +good rope. + +A committee of the English Alpine Club was appointed in 1864 to test, and +to report upon, the most suitable ropes for mountaineering purposes, and +those which were approved are probably as good as can be found. One is +made of Manilla and another of Italian hemp. The former is the heavier, +and weighs a little more than an ounce per foot (103 ozs. to 100 feet). +The latter weighs 79 ozs. per 100 feet; but I prefer the Manilla rope, +because it is more handy to handle. Both of these ropes will sustain 168 +lbs. falling 10 feet, or 196 lbs. falling 8 feet, and they break with a +dead weight of two tons.(204) In 1865 we carried two 100 feet lengths of +the Manilla rope, and the inconvenience arising from its weight was more +than made up for by the security which it afforded. Upon several occasions +it was worth more than an extra guide. + +Now, touching the _use_ of the rope. There is a right way, and there are +wrong ways of using it. I often meet, upon glacier-passes, elegantly +got-up persons, who are clearly out of their element, with a guide +stalking along in front, who pays no attention to the innocents in his +charge. They are tied together as a matter of form, but they evidently +have no idea _why_ they are tied up, for they walk side by side, or close +together, with the rope trailing on the snow. If one tumbles into a +crevasse, the rest stare, and say, "La! what is the matter with Smith?" +unless, as is more likely, they all tumble in together. This is the wrong +way to use a rope. It is abuse of the rope. + + [Illustration: The wrong way to use a rope on glacier] + +It is of the first importance to keep the rope taut from man to man. If +this is not done, there is no real security, and your risks may be +considerably magnified. There is little or no difficulty in extricating +one man who breaks through a bridged crevasse if the rope is taut; but the +case may be very awkward if two break through at the same moment, close +together, and there are only two others to aid, or perhaps only one other. +Further, the rope ought not upon any account to graze over snow, ice, or +rocks, otherwise the strands suffer, and the lives of the whole party may +be endangered. Apart from this, it is extremely annoying to have a rope +knocking about one's heels. If circumstances render it impossible for the +rope to be kept taut by itself, the men behind should gather it up round +their hands,(205) and not allow it to incommode those in advance. A man +must either be incompetent, careless, or selfish, if he permits the rope +to dangle about the heels of the person in front of him. + + [Illustration: THE RIGHT WAY TO USE THE ROPE.] + +The distance from man to man must neither be too great nor too small. +About 12 feet between each is sufficient. If there are only two or three +persons, it is prudent to allow a little more--say 15 feet. More than this +is unnecessary, and less than 9 or 10 feet is not much good. + +It is essential to examine your rope from time to time to see that it is +in good condition. If you are wise you will do this yourself every day. +Latterly, I have examined every inch of my rope overnight, and upon more +than one occasion have found the strands of the Manilla rope nearly half +severed through accidental grazes. + +Thus far the rope has been supposed to be employed upon level, +snow-covered glacier, to prevent any risk from concealed crevasses. On +rocks and on slopes it is used for a different purpose (namely, to guard +against slips), and in these cases it is equally important to keep it +taut, and to preserve a reasonable distance one from the other. It is much +more troublesome to keep the rope taut upon slopes than upon the level; +and upon difficult rocks it is all but impossible, except by adopting the +plan of moving only one at a time (see p. 115). + +There is no good reason for employing a rope upon easy rocks, and I +believe that its needless use is likely to promote carelessness. On +difficult rocks and on snow-slopes (frequently improperly called +ice-slopes) it is a great advantage to be tied together, provided the rope +is handled properly; but upon actual ice-slopes, such as that on the Col +Dolent (p. 240), or upon slopes in which ice is mingled with small and +loose rocks, such as the upper part of the Pointe des Ecrins, it is almost +useless, because a slip made by one person might upset the entire +party.(206) I am not prepared to say, however, that men should not be tied +together upon similar slopes. Being attached to others usually gives +confidence, and confidence decidedly assists stability. It is more +questionable whether men should be in such places at all. If a man can +keep on his feet upon an _escalier_ cut in an ice-slope, I see no reason +why he should be debarred from making use of that particular form of +staircase. If he cannot, let him keep clear of such places.(207) + +There would be no advantage in discoursing upon the use of the rope at +greater length. A single day upon a mountain's side will give a clearer +idea of the value of a good rope, and of the numerous purposes for which +it may be employed, than any one will obtain from reading all that has +been written upon the subject; but no one will become really expert in its +management without much experience. + + + +From the Col d'Olen we proceeded down the Combe of the same name to the +chalets of Prerayen, and passed the night of the 6th under the roof of our +old acquaintance, the wealthy herdsman. On the 7th we crossed the Va +Cornère pass, _en route_ for Breil. My thoughts were fixed on the +Matterhorn, and my guides knew that I wished them to accompany me. They +had an aversion to the mountain, and repeatedly expressed their belief +that it was useless to try to ascend it. "_Anything_ but Matterhorn, dear +sir!" said Almer; "_anything_ but Matterhorn." He did not speak of +difficulty or of danger, nor was he shirking _work_. He offered to go +_anywhere_; but he entreated that the Matterhorn should be abandoned. Both +men spoke fairly enough. They did not think that an ascent could be made; +and for their own credit, as well as for my sake, they did not wish to +undertake a business which, in their opinion, would only lead to loss of +time and money. + +I sent them by the short cut to Breil, and walked down to Val Tournanche +to look for Jean-Antoine Carrel. He was not there. The villagers said that +he, and three others, had started on the 6th to try the Matterhorn by the +old way, on their own account. They will have no luck, I thought, for the +clouds were low down on the mountains; and I walked up to Breil, fully +expecting to meet them. Nor was I disappointed. About half-way up I saw a +group of men clustered around a chalet upon the other side of the torrent, +and, crossing over, found that the party had returned. Jean-Antoine and +Cæsar were there, C. E. Gorret, and J. J. Maquignaz. They had had no +success. The weather, they said, had been horrible, and they had scarcely +reached the glacier du Lion. + +I explained the situation to Carrel, and proposed that we, with Cæsar and +another man, should cross the Théodule by moonlight on the 9th, and that +upon the 10th we should pitch the tent as high as possible upon the east +face. He was unwilling to abandon the old route, and urged me to try it +again. I promised to do so provided the new route failed. This satisfied +him, and he agreed to my proposal. I then went up to Breil, and discharged +Almer and Biener--with much regret, for no two men ever served me more +faithfully or more willingly.(208) On the next day they crossed to +Zermatt. + +The 8th was occupied with preparations. The weather was stormy; and black, +rainy vapours obscured the mountains. Towards evening a young man came +from Val Tournanche, and reported that an Englishman was lying there, +extremely ill. Now was the time for the performance of my vow;(209) and on +the morning of Sunday the 9th I went down the valley to look after the +sick man. On my way I passed a foreign gentleman, with a mule and several +porters laden with baggage. Amongst these men were Jean-Antoine and Cæsar, +carrying some barometers. "Hullo!" I said, "what are you doing?" They +explained that the foreigner had arrived just as they were setting out, +and that they were assisting his porters. "Very well; go on to Breil, and +await me there; we start at midnight as agreed." Jean-Antoine then said +that he should not be able to serve me after Tuesday the 11th, as he was +engaged to travel "with a family of distinction" in the valley of Aosta. +"And Cæsar?" "And Cæsar also." "Why did you not say this before?" +"Because," said he, "it was not settled. The engagement is of long +standing, but _the day_ was not fixed. When I got back to Val Tournanche +on Friday night, after leaving you, I found a letter naming the day." I +could not object to the answer; but the prospect of being left guideless +was provoking. They went up, and I down, the valley. + +The sick man declared that he was better, though the exertion of saying as +much tumbled him over on to the floor in a fainting fit. He was badly in +want of medicine, and I tramped down to Chatillon to get it. It was late +before I returned to Val Tournanche, for the weather was tempestuous, and +rain fell in torrents. A figure passed me under the church porch. "_Qui +vive?_" "Jean-Antoine." "I thought you were at Breil." "No, sir: when the +storms came on I knew we should not start to-night, and so came down to +sleep here." "Ha, Carrel!" I said; "this is a great bore. If to-morrow is +not fine we shall not be able to do anything together. I have sent away my +guides, relying on you; and now you are going to leave me to travel with a +party of ladies. That work is not fit for _you_ (he smiled, I supposed at +the implied compliment); can't you send some one else instead?" "No, +monsieur. I am sorry, but my word is pledged. I should like to accompany +you, but I can't break my engagement." By this time we had arrived at the +inn door. "Well, it is no fault of yours. Come presently with Cæsar, and +have some wine." They came, and we sat up till midnight, recounting our +old adventures, in the inn of Val Tournanche. + +The weather continued bad upon the 10th, and I returned to Breil. The two +Carrels were again hovering about the above mentioned chalet, and I bade +them adieu. In the evening the sick man crawled up, a good deal better; +but his was the only arrival. The Monday crowd(210) did not cross the +Théodule, on account of the continued storms. The inn was lonely. I went +to bed early, and was awoke the next morning by the invalid inquiring if I +had "heard the news." "No; what news?" "Why," said he, "a large party of +guides went off this morning to try the Matterhorn, taking with them a +mule laden with provisions." + +I went to the door, and with a telescope saw the party upon the lower +slopes of the mountain. Favre, the landlord, stood by. "What is all this +about?" I inquired, "who is the leader of this party?" "Carrel." "What! +Jean-Antoine?" "Yes; Jean-Antoine." "Is Cæsar there too?" "Yes, he is +there." Then I saw in a moment that I had been bamboozled and humbugged; +and learned, bit by bit, that the affair had been arranged long +beforehand. The start on the 6th had been for a preliminary +reconnaissance; the mule, that I passed, was conveying stores for the +attack; the "family of distinction" was Signor F. Giordano, who had just +despatched the party to facilitate the way to the summit, and who, when +the facilitation was completed, was to be taken to the top along with +Signor Sella!(211) + +I was greatly mortified. My plans were upset; the Italians had clearly +stolen a march upon me, and I saw that the astute Favre chuckled over my +discomfiture, because the route by the eastern face, if successful, would +not benefit his inn. What was to be done? I retired to my room, and +soothed by tobacco, re-studied my plans, to see if it was not possible to +outmanoeuvre the Italians. + +"They have taken a mule's load of provisions." "That is _one_ point in my +favour, for they will take two or three days to get through the food, and, +until that is done, no work will be accomplished." "How is the weather?" I +went to the window. The mountain was smothered up in mist. "Another point +in my favour." "They are to facilitate the way. Well, if they do that to +any purpose, it will be a long job." Altogether, I reckoned that they +could not possibly ascend the mountain and come back to Breil in less than +seven days. I got cooler, for it was evident that the wily ones might be +outwitted after all. There was time enough to go to Zermatt, to try the +eastern face, and, should it prove impracticable, to come back to Breil +before the men returned; and then, it seemed to me, as the mountain was +not padlocked, one might start at the same time as the Messieurs, and yet +get to the top before them. + +The first thing to do was to go to Zermatt. Easier said than done. The +seven guides upon the mountain included the ablest men in the valley, and +none of the ordinary muleteer-guides were at Breil. Two men, at least, +were wanted for my baggage, but not a soul could be found. I ran about, +and sent about in all directions, but not a single porter could be +obtained. One was with Carrel; another was ill; another was at Chatillon, +and so forth. Even Meynet, the hunchback, could not be induced to come; he +was in the thick of some important cheese-making operations. I was in the +position of a general without an army; it was all very well to make plans, +but there was no one to execute them. This did not much trouble me, for it +was evident that so long as the weather stopped traffic over the Théodule +pass, it would hinder the men equally upon the Matterhorn; and I knew that +directly it improved company would certainly arrive. + +About midday on Tuesday the 11th a large party hove in sight from Zermatt, +preceded by a nimble young Englishman, and one of old Peter Taugwalder's +sons.(212) I went at once to this gentleman to learn if he could dispense +with Taugwalder. He said that he could not, as they were going to recross +to Zermatt on the morrow, but that the young man should assist in +transporting my baggage, as he had nothing to carry. We naturally got into +conversation. I told my story, and learned that the young Englishman was +Lord Francis Douglas,(213) whose recent exploit--the ascent of the +Gabelhorn--had excited my wonder and admiration. He brought good news. Old +Peter had lately been beyond the Hörnli, and had reported that he thought +an ascent of the Matterhorn was possible upon that side. Almer had left +Zermatt, and could not be recovered, so I determined to seek for old +Peter. Lord Francis Douglas expressed a warm desire to ascend the +mountain, and before long it was determined that he should take part in +the expedition. + +Favre could no longer hinder our departure, and lent us one of his men. We +crossed the Col Théodule on Wednesday morning the 12th of July, rounded +the foot of the Ober Théodulgletscher, crossed the Furggengletscher, and +deposited tent, blankets, ropes, and other matters in the little chapel at +the Schwarzsee.(214) All four were heavily laden, for we brought across +the whole of my stores from Breil. Of rope alone there was about 600 feet. +There were three kinds. First, 200 feet of the Manilla rope; second, 150 +feet of a stouter, and probably stronger rope than the first; and third, +more than 200 feet of a lighter and weaker rope than the first, of a kind +that I used formerly (stout sash-line). + +We descended to Zermatt, sought and engaged old Peter, and gave him +permission to choose another guide. When we returned to the Monte Rosa +Hotel, whom should we see sitting upon the wall in front but my old _guide +chef_, Michel Croz. I supposed that he had come with Mr. B----, but I +learned that that gentleman had arrived in ill health, at Chamounix, and +had returned to England. Croz, thus left free, had been immediately +engaged by the Rev. Charles Hudson, and they had come to Zermatt with the +same object as ourselves--namely, to attempt the ascent of the Matterhorn! + +Lord Francis Douglas and I dined at the Monte Rosa, and had just finished +when Mr. Hudson and a friend entered the _salle à manger_. They had +returned from inspecting the mountain, and some idlers in the room +demanded their intentions. We heard a confirmation of Croz's statement, +and learned that Mr. Hudson intended to set out on the morrow at the same +hour as ourselves. We left the room to consult, and agreed it was +undesirable that two independent parties should be on the mountain at the +same time with the same object. Mr. Hudson was therefore invited to join +us, and he accepted our proposal. Before admitting his friend--Mr. Hadow--I +took the precaution to inquire what he had done in the Alps, and, as well +as I remember, Mr. Hudson's reply was, "Mr. Hadow has done Mont Blanc in +less time than most men." He then mentioned several other excursions that +were unknown to me, and added, in answer to a further question, "I +consider he is a sufficiently good man to go with us." Mr. Hadow was +admitted without any further question, and we then went into the matter of +guides. Hudson thought that Croz and old Peter would be sufficient. The +question was referred to the men themselves, and they made no objection. + +So Croz and I became comrades once more; and as I threw myself on my bed +and tried to go to sleep, I wondered at the strange series of chances +which had first separated us and then brought us together again. I thought +of the mistake through which he had accepted the engagement to Mr. B----; of +his unwillingness to adopt my route; of his recommendation to transfer our +energies to the chain of Mont Blanc; of the retirement of Almer and +Biener; of the desertion of Carrel; of the arrival of Lord Francis +Douglas; and, lastly, of our meeting at Zermatt; and as I pondered over +these things I could not help asking, "What next?" If any one of the links +of this fatal chain of circumstances had been omitted, what a different +story I should have to tell! + + + + + + CHAPTER XIX. + + + THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN. + + + "Had we succeeded well, + We had been reckoned 'mongst the wise: our minds + Are so disposed to judge from the event." + EURIPIDES. + + "It is a thoroughly unfair, but an ordinary custom, to praise or + blame designs (which in themselves may be good or bad) just as + they turn out well or ill. Hence the same actions are at one + time attributed to earnestness and at another to vanity." + PLINY MIN. + + +We started from Zermatt on the 13th of July, at half-past 5, on a +brilliant and perfectly cloudless morning. We were eight in number--Croz, +old Peter and his two sons,(215) Lord F. Douglas, Hadow, Hudson,(216) and +I. To ensure steady motion, one tourist and one native walked together. +The youngest Taugwalder fell to my share, and the lad marched well, proud +to be on the expedition, and happy to show his powers. The wine-bags also +fell to my lot to carry, and throughout the day, after each drink, I +replenished them secretly with water, so that at the next halt they were +found fuller than before! This was considered a good omen, and little +short of miraculous. + +On the first day we did not intend to ascend to any great height, and we +mounted, accordingly, very leisurely; picked up the things which were left +in the chapel at the Schwarzsee at 8.20, and proceeded thence along the +ridge connecting the Hörnli with the Matterhorn.(217) At half-past 11 we +arrived at the base of the actual peak; then quitted the ridge, and +clambered round some ledges, on to the eastern face. We were now fairly +upon the mountain, and were astonished to find that places which from the +Riffel, or even from the Furggengletscher, looked entirely impracticable, +were so easy that we could _run about_. + +Before twelve o'clock we had found a good position for the tent, at a +height of 11,000 feet.(218) Croz and young Peter went on to see what was +above, in order to save time on the following morning. They cut across the +heads of the snow-slopes which descended towards the Furggengletscher, and +disappeared round a corner; and shortly afterwards we saw them high up on +the face, moving quickly. We others made a solid platform for the tent in +a well-protected spot, and then watched eagerly for the return of the men. +The stones which they upset told that they were very high, and we supposed +that the way must be easy. At length, just before 3 P.M., we saw them +coming down, evidently much excited. "What are they saying, Peter?" +"Gentlemen, they say it is no good." But when they came near we heard a +different story. "Nothing but what was good; not a difficulty, not a +single difficulty! We could have gone to the summit and returned to-day +easily!" + +We passed the remaining hours of daylight--some basking in the sunshine, +some sketching or collecting; and when the sun went down, giving, as it +departed, a glorious promise for the morrow, we returned to the tent to +arrange for the night. Hudson made tea, I coffee, and we then retired each +one to his blanket-bag; the Taugwalders, Lord Francis Douglas, and myself, +occupying the tent, the others remaining, by preference, outside. Long +after dusk the cliffs above echoed with our laughter and with the songs of +the guides, for we were happy that night in camp, and feared no evil. + +We assembled together outside the tent before dawn on the morning of the +14th, and started directly it was light enough to move. Young Peter came +on with us as a guide, and his brother returned to Zermatt.(219) We +followed the route which had been taken on the previous day, and in a few +minutes turned the rib which had intercepted the view of the eastern face +from our tent platform. The whole of this great slope was now revealed, +rising for 3000 feet like a huge natural staircase.(220) Some parts were +more, and others were less, easy; but we were not once brought to a halt +by any serious impediment, for when an obstruction was met in front it +could always be turned to the right or to the left. For the greater part +of the way there was, indeed, no occasion for the rope, and sometimes +Hudson led, sometimes myself. At 6.20 we had attained a height of 12,800 +feet, and halted for half-an-hour; we then continued the ascent without a +break until 9.55, when we stopped for 50 minutes, at a height of 14,000 +feet. Twice we struck the N.E. ridge, and followed it for some little +distance,(221)--to no advantage, for it was usually more rotten and steep, +and always more difficult than the face.(222) Still, we kept near to it, +lest stones perchance might fall.(223) + +We had now arrived at the foot of that part which, from the Riffelberg or +from Zermatt, seems perpendicular or overhanging, and could no longer +continue upon the eastern side. For a little distance we ascended by snow +upon the arête(224)--that is, the ridge--descending towards Zermatt, and +then, by common consent, turned over to the right, or to the northern +side. Before doing so, we made a change in the order of ascent. Croz went +first, I followed, Hudson came third; Hadow and old Peter were last. +"Now," said Croz, as he led off, "now for something altogether different." +The work became difficult, and required caution. In some places there was +little to hold, and it was desirable that those should be in front who +were least likely to slip. The general slope of the mountain at this part +was _less_ than 40°, and snow had accumulated in, and had filled up, the +interstices of the rock-face, leaving only occasional fragments projecting +here and there. These were at times covered with a thin film of ice, +produced from the melting and refreezing of the snow. It was the +counterpart, on a small scale, of the upper 700 feet of the Pointe des +Ecrins,--only there was this material difference; the face of the Ecrins +was about, or exceeded, an angle of 50°, and the Matterhorn face was less +than 40°.(225) It was a place over which any fair mountaineer might pass +in safety, and Mr. Hudson ascended this part, and, as far as I know, the +entire mountain, without having the slightest assistance rendered to him +upon any occasion. Sometimes, after I had taken a hand from Croz, or +received a pull, I turned to offer the same to Hudson; but he invariably +declined, saying it was not necessary. Mr. Hadow, however, was not +accustomed to this kind of work, and required continual assistance. It is +only fair to say that the difficulty which he found at this part arose +simply and entirely from want of experience. + +This solitary difficult part was of no great extent.(226) We bore away +over it at first, nearly horizontally, for a distance of about 400 feet; +then ascended directly towards the summit for about 60 feet; and then +doubled back to the ridge which descends towards Zermatt. A long stride +round a rather awkward corner brought us to snow once more. The last doubt +vanished! The Matterhorn was ours! Nothing but 200 feet of easy snow +remained to be surmounted! + +You must now carry your thoughts back to the seven Italians who started +from Breil on the 11th of July. Four days had passed since their +departure, and we were tormented with anxiety lest they should arrive on +the top before us. All the way up we had talked of them, and many false +alarms of "men on the summit" had been raised. The higher we rose, the +more intense became the excitement. What if we should be beaten at the +last moment? The slope eased off, at length we could be detached, and Croz +and I, dashing away, ran a neck-and-neck race, which ended in a dead heat. +At 1.40 P.M. the world was at our feet, and the Matterhorn was conquered. +Hurrah! Not a footstep could be seen. + +It was not yet certain that we had not been beaten. The summit of the +Matterhorn was formed of a rudely level ridge, about 350 feet long,(227) +and the Italians might have been at its farther extremity. I hastened to +the southern end, scanning the snow right and left eagerly. Hurrah! again; +it was untrodden. "Where were the men?" I peered over the cliff, half +doubting, half expectant. I saw them immediately--mere dots on the ridge, +at an immense distance below. Up went my arms and my hat. "Croz! Croz!! +come here!" "Where are they, Monsieur?" "There, don't you see them, down +there?" "Ah! the _coquins_, they are low down." "Croz, we must make those +fellows hear us." We yelled until we were hoarse. The Italians seemed to +regard us--we could not be certain. "Croz, we _must_ make them hear us; +they _shall_ hear us!" I seized a block of rock and hurled it down, and +called upon my companion, in the name of friendship, to do the same. We +drove our sticks in, and prized away the crags, and soon a torrent of +stones poured down the cliffs. There was no mistake about it this time. +The Italians turned and fled.(228) + + [Illustration: "CROZ! CROZ!! COME HERE!"] + +Still, I would that the leader of that party could have stood with us at +that moment, for our victorious shouts conveyed to him the disappointment +of the ambition of a lifetime. He was _the_ man, of all those who +attempted the ascent of the Matterhorn, who most deserved to be the first +upon its summit. He was the first to doubt its inaccessibility, and he was +the only man who persisted in believing that its ascent would be +accomplished. It was the aim of his life to make the ascent from the side +of Italy, for the honour of his native valley. For a time he had the game +in his hands: he played it as he thought best; but he made a false move, +and he lost it. Times have changed with Carrel. His supremacy is +questioned in the Val Tournanche; new men have arisen; and he is no longer +recognised as _the_ chasseur above all others: though so long as he +remains the man that he is to-day, it will not be easy to find his +superior. + +The others had arrived, so we went back to the northern end of the ridge. +Croz now took the tent-pole,(229) and planted it in the highest snow. +"Yes," we said, "there is the flag-staff, but where is the flag?" "Here it +is," he answered, pulling off his blouse and fixing it to the stick. It +made a poor flag, and there was no wind to float it out, yet it was seen +all around. They saw it at Zermatt--at the Riffel--in the Val Tournanche. At +Breil, the watchers cried, "Victory is ours!" They raised "bravos" for +Carrel, and "vivas" for Italy, and hastened to put themselves _en fête_. +On the morrow they were undeceived. "All was changed; the explorers +returned sad--cast down--disheartened--confounded--gloomy." "It is true," said +the men. "We saw them ourselves--they hurled stones at us! The old +traditions _are_ true,--there are spirits on the top of the +Matterhorn!"(230) + + [Illustration: THE SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1865 (NORTHERN END).] + +We returned to the southern end of the ridge to build a cairn, and then +paid homage to the view.(231) The day was one of those superlatively calm +and clear ones which usually precede bad weather. The atmosphere was +perfectly still, and free from all clouds or vapours. Mountains fifty--nay +a hundred--miles off, looked sharp and near. All their details--ridge and +crag, snow and glacier--stood out with faultless definition. Pleasant +thoughts of happy days in bygone years came up unbidden, as we recognised +the old, familiar forms. All were revealed--not one of the principal peaks +of the Alps was hidden.(232) I see them clearly now--the great inner +circles of giants, backed by the ranges, chains, and _massifs_. First came +the Dent Blanche, hoary and grand; the Gabelhorn and pointed Rothhorn; and +then the peerless Weisshorn: the towering Mischabelhörner, flanked by the +Allaleinhorn, Strahlhorn, and Rimpfischhorn; then Monte Rosa--with its many +Spitzes--the Lyskamm and the Breithorn. Behind was the Bernese Oberland +governed by the Finsteraarhorn, and then the Simplon and St. Gothard +groups; the Disgrazia and the Orteler. Towards the south we looked down to +Chivasso on the plain of Piedmont, and far beyond. The Viso--one hundred +miles away--seemed close upon us; the Maritime Alps--one hundred and thirty +miles distant--were free from haze. Then came my first love--the Pelvoux; +the Ecrins and the Meije; the clusters of the Graians; and lastly, in the +west, gorgeous in the full sunlight, rose the monarch of all--Mont Blanc. +Ten thousand feet beneath us were the green fields of Zermatt, dotted with +chalets, from which blue smoke rose lazily. Eight thousand feet below, on +the other side, were the pastures of Breil. There were black and gloomy +forests, bright and cheerful meadows; bounding waterfalls and tranquil +lakes; fertile lands and savage wastes; sunny plains and frigid +_plateaux_. There were the most rugged forms, and the most graceful +outlines--bold, perpendicular cliffs, and gentle, undulating slopes; rocky +mountains and snowy mountains, sombre and solemn, or glittering and white, +with walls--turrets--pinnacles--pyramids--domes--cones--and spires! There was +every combination that the world can give, and every contrast that the +heart could desire. + +We remained on the summit for one hour-- + + "One crowded hour of glorious life." + +It passed away too quickly, and we began to prepare for the descent. + + [Illustration: THE ACTUAL SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1865.] + + + + + + CHAPTER XX. + + + DESCENT OF THE MATTERHORN.(233) + + +Hudson and I again consulted as to the best and safest arrangement of the +party. We agreed that it would be best for Croz to go first,(234) and +Hadow second; Hudson, who was almost equal to a guide in sureness of foot, +wished to be third; Lord F. Douglas was placed next, and old Peter, the +strongest of the remainder, after him. I suggested to Hudson that we +should attach a rope to the rocks on our arrival at the difficult bit, and +hold it as we descended, as an additional protection. He approved the +idea, but it was not definitely settled that it should be done. The party +was being arranged in the above order whilst I was sketching the summit, +and they had finished, and were waiting for me to be tied in line, when +some one remembered that our names had not been left in a bottle. They +requested me to write them down, and moved off while it was being done. + +A few minutes afterwards I tied myself to young Peter, ran down after the +others, and caught them just as they were commencing the descent of the +difficult part.(235) Great care was being taken. Only one man was moving +at a time; when he was firmly planted the next advanced, and so on. They +had not, however, attached the additional rope to rocks, and nothing was +said about it. The suggestion was not made for my own sake, and I am not +sure that it even occurred to me again. For some little distance we two +followed the others, detached from them, and should have continued so had +not Lord F. Douglas asked me, about 3 P.M., to tie on to old Peter, as he +feared, he said, that Taugwalder would not be able to hold his ground if a +slip occurred. + + + +A few minutes later, a sharp-eyed lad ran into the Monte Rosa hotel, to +Seiler, saying that he had seen an avalanche fall from the summit of the +Matterhorn on to the Matterhorngletscher. The boy was reproved for telling +idle stories; he was right, nevertheless, and this was what he saw. + + + +Michel Croz had laid aside his axe, and in order to give Mr. Hadow greater +security, was absolutely taking hold of his legs, and putting his feet, +one by one, into their proper positions.(236) As far as I know, no one was +actually descending. I cannot speak with certainty, because the two +leading men were partially hidden from my sight by an intervening mass of +rock, but it is my belief, from the movements of their shoulders, that +Croz, having done as I have said, was in the act of turning round to go +down a step or two himself; at this moment Mr. Hadow slipped, fell against +him, and knocked him over. I heard one startled exclamation from Croz, +then saw him and Mr. Hadow flying downwards; in another moment Hudson was +dragged from his steps, and Lord F. Douglas immediately after him.(237) +All this was the work of a moment. Immediately we heard Croz's +exclamation, old Peter and I planted ourselves as firmly as the rocks +would permit:(238) the rope was taut between us, and the jerk came on us +both as on one man. We held; but the rope broke midway between Taugwalder +and Lord Francis Douglas. For a few seconds we saw our unfortunate +companions sliding downwards on their backs, and spreading out their +hands, endeavouring to save themselves. They passed from our sight +uninjured, disappeared one by one, and fell from precipice to precipice on +to the Matterhorngletscher below, a distance of nearly 4000 feet in +height. From the moment the rope broke it was impossible to help them. + + [Illustration: ROPE BROKEN ON THE MATTERHORN.] + +So perished our comrades! For the space of half-an-hour we remained on the +spot without moving a single step. The two men, paralysed by terror, cried +like infants, and trembled in such a manner as to threaten us with the +fate of the others. Old Peter rent the air with exclamations of +"Chamounix! Oh, what will Chamounix say?" He meant, Who would believe that +Croz could fall? The young man did nothing but scream or sob, "We are +lost! we are lost!" Fixed between the two, I could neither move up nor +down. I begged young Peter to descend, but he dared not. Unless he did, we +could not advance. Old Peter became alive to the danger, and swelled the +cry, "We are lost! we are lost!" The father's fear was natural--he trembled +for his son; the young man's fear was cowardly--he thought of self alone. +At last old Peter summoned up courage, and changed his position to a rock +to which he could fix the rope; the young man then descended, and we all +stood together. Immediately we did so, I asked for the rope which had +given way, and found, to my surprise--indeed, to my horror--that it was the +weakest of the three ropes. It was not brought, and should not have been +employed, for the purpose for which it was used. It was old rope, and, +compared with the others, was feeble. It was intended as a reserve, in +case we had to leave much rope behind, attached to rocks. I saw at once +that a serious question was involved, and made him give me the end. It had +broken in mid-air, and it did not appear to have sustained previous +injury. + +For more than two hours afterwards I thought almost every moment that the +next would be my last; for the Taugwalders, utterly unnerved, were not +only incapable of giving assistance, but were in such a state that a slip +might have been expected from them at any moment. After a time we were +able to do that which should have been done at first, and fixed rope to +firm rocks, in addition to being tied together. These ropes were cut from +time to time, and were left behind.(239) Even with their assurance the men +were sometimes afraid to proceed, and several times old Peter turned with +ashy face and faltering limbs, and said, with terrible emphasis, "_I +cannot!_" + + [Illustration: FOG-BOW SEEN FROM THE MATTERHORN ON JULY 14, 1865. + "THE TAUGWALDERS THOUGHT THAT IT HAD SOME CONNECTION WITH THE ACCIDENT"] + +About 6 P.M. we arrived at the snow upon the ridge descending towards +Zermatt, and all peril was over. We frequently looked, but in vain, for +traces of our unfortunate companions; we bent over the ridge and cried to +them, but no sound returned. Convinced at last that they were neither +within sight nor hearing, we ceased from our useless efforts; and, too +cast down for speech, silently gathered up our things, and the little +effects of those who were lost, preparatory to continuing the descent. +When, lo! a mighty arch appeared, rising above the Lyskamm, high into the +sky. Pale, colourless, and noiseless, but perfectly sharp and defined, +except where it was lost in the clouds, this unearthly apparition seemed +like a vision from another world; and, almost appalled, we watched with +amazement the gradual development of two vast crosses, one on either side. +If the Taugwalders had not been the first to perceive it, I should have +doubted my senses. They thought it had some connection with the accident, +and I, after a while, that it might bear some relation to ourselves. But +our movements had no effect upon it. The spectral forms remained +motionless. It was a fearful and wonderful sight; unique in my experience, +and impressive beyond description, coming at such a moment.(240) + +I was ready to leave, and waiting for the others. They had recovered their +appetites and the use of their tongues. They spoke in patois, which I did +not understand. At length the son said in French, "Monsieur." "Yes." "We +are poor men; we have lost our Herr; we shall not get paid; we can ill +afford this."(241) "Stop!" I said, interrupting him, "that is nonsense; I +shall pay you, of course, just as if your Herr were here." They talked +together in their patois for a short time, and then the son spoke again. +"We don't wish you to pay us. We wish you to write in the hotel-book at +Zermatt, and to your journals, that we have not been paid." "What nonsense +are you talking? I don't understand you. What do you mean?" He +proceeded--"Why, next year there will be many travellers at Zermatt, and we +shall get more _voyageurs_."(242) + + [Illustration: MONSIEUR ALEX. SEILER.] + +Who would answer such a proposition? I made them no reply in words,(243) +but they knew very well the indignation that I felt. They filled the cup +of bitterness to overflowing, and I tore down the cliff, madly and +recklessly, in a way that caused them, more than once, to inquire if I +wished to kill them. Night fell; and for an hour the descent was continued +in the darkness. At half-past 9 a resting-place was found, and upon a +wretched slab, barely large enough to hold the three, we passed six +miserable hours. At daybreak the descent was resumed, and from the Hörnli +ridge we ran down to the chalets of Buhl, and on to Zermatt. Seiler met me +at his door, and followed in silence to my room. "What is the matter?" +"The Taugwalders and I have returned." He did not need more, and burst +into tears; but lost no time in useless lamentations, and set to work to +arouse the village. Ere long a score of men had started to ascend the +Hohlicht heights, above Kalbermatt and Z'Mutt, which commanded the plateau +of the Matterhorngletscher. They returned after six hours, and reported +that they had seen the bodies lying motionless on the snow. This was on +Saturday; and they proposed that we should leave on Sunday evening, so as +to arrive upon the plateau at daybreak on Monday. Unwilling to lose the +slightest chance, the Rev. J. M'Cormick and I resolved to start on Sunday +morning. The Zermatt men, threatened with excommunication by their priests +if they failed to attend the early mass, were unable to accompany us. To +several of them, at least, this was a severe trial. Peter Perrn declared +with tears that nothing else would have prevented him from joining in the +search for his old comrades. Englishmen came to our aid. The Rev. J. +Robertson and Mr. J. Phillpotts offered themselves, and their guide Franz +Andermatten;(244) another Englishman lent us Joseph Marie and Alexandre +Lochmatter. Frédéric Payot and Jean Tairraz, of Chamounix, also +volunteered. + +We started at 2 A.M. on Sunday the 16th, and followed the route that we +had taken on the previous Thursday as far as the Hörnli. From thence we +went down to the right of the ridge,(245) and mounted through the _séracs_ +of the Matterhorngletscher. By 8.30 we had got to the plateau at the top +of the glacier, and within sight of the corner in which we knew my +companions must be.(246) As we saw one weather-beaten man after another +raise the telescope, turn deadly pale, and pass it on without a word to +the next, we knew that all hope was gone. We approached. They had fallen +below as they had fallen above--Croz a little in advance, Hadow near him, +and Hudson some distance behind; but of Lord F. Douglas we could see +nothing.(247) We left them where they fell; buried in snow at the base of +the grandest cliff of the most majestic mountain of the Alps. + + [Illustration: THE MANILLA ROPE.(248)] + +All those who had fallen had been tied with the Manilla, or with the +second and equally strong rope, and, consequently, there had been only one +link--that between old Peter and Lord F. Douglas--where the weaker rope had +been used. This had a very ugly look for Taugwalder, for it was not +possible to suppose that the others would have sanctioned the employment +of a rope so greatly inferior in strength when there were more than 250 +feet of the better qualities still remaining out of use.(249) For the sake +of the old guide (who bore a good reputation), and upon all other +accounts, it was desirable that this matter should be cleared up; and +after my examination before the court of inquiry which was instituted by +the Government was over, I handed in a number of questions which were +framed so as to afford old Peter an opportunity of exculpating himself +from the grave suspicions which at once fell upon him. The questions, I +was told, were put and answered; but the answers, although promised, have +never reached me.(250) + + [Illustration: THE SECOND ROPE.] + + [Illustration: THE ENGLISH CHURCH AT ZERMATT.] + +Meanwhile, the administration sent strict injunctions to recover the +bodies, and upon the 19th of July, twenty-one men of Zermatt accomplished +that sad and dangerous task.(251) Of the body of Lord Francis Douglas +they, too, saw nothing; it is probably still arrested on the rocks +above.(252) The remains of Hudson and Hadow were interred upon the north +side of the Zermatt Church, in the presence of a reverent crowd of +sympathising friends. The body of Michel Croz lies upon the other side, +under a simpler tomb; whose inscription bears honourable testimony to his +rectitude, to his courage, and to his devotion. + + + +So the traditional inaccessibility of the Matterhorn was vanquished, and +was replaced by legends of a more real character. Others will essay to +scale its proud cliffs, but to none will it be the mountain that it was to +its early explorers. Others may tread its summit-snows, but none will ever +know the feelings of those who first gazed upon its marvellous panorama; +and none, I trust, will ever be compelled to tell of joy turned into +grief, and of laughter into mourning. It proved to be a stubborn foe; it +resisted long, and gave many a hard blow; it was defeated at last with an +ease that none could have anticipated, but, like a relentless +enemy--conquered but not crushed--it took terrible vengeance. The time may +come when the Matterhorn shall have passed away, and nothing, save a heap +of shapeless fragments, will mark the spot where the great mountain stood; +for, atom by atom, inch by inch, and yard by yard, it yields to forces +which nothing can withstand. That time is far distant; and, ages hence, +generations unborn will gaze upon its awful precipices, and wonder at its +unique form. However exalted may be their ideas, and however exaggerated +their expectations, none will come to return disappointed! + + + +With the Ascent of the Matterhorn, my mountaineering in the Alps came to a +close. The disastrous termination, though casting a permanent cloud over +otherwise happy memories, and leaving a train of life-long regrets, has +not altered my regard for the purest, healthiest and most manly of sports; +and, often, in grappling with every day difficulties, sometimes in +apparently hopeless tasks, encouragement has been found in the remembrance +of hard-won victories over stubborn Alps. + +We who go mountain-scrambling have constantly set before us the +superiority of fixed purpose or perseverance to brute force. We know that +each height, each step, must be gained by patient, laborious toil, and +that wishing cannot take the place of working; we know the benefits of +mutual aid; that many a difficulty must be encountered, and many an +obstacle must be grappled with or turned, but we know that where there's a +will there's a way: and we come back to our daily occupations better +fitted to fight the battle of life, and to overcome the impediments which +obstruct our paths, strengthened and cheered by the recollection of past +labours, and by the memories of victories gained in other fields. + +I have not made myself an apologist for mountaineering, nor do I now +intend to usurp the functions of a moralist; but my task would have been +ill performed if it had been concluded without one reference to the more +serious lessons of the mountaineer. We glory in the physical regeneration +which is the product of our exertions; we exult over the grandeur of the +scenes that are brought before our eyes, the splendours of sunrise and +sunset, and the beauties of hill, dale, lake, wood, and waterfall; but we +value more highly the development of manliness, and the evolution, under +combat with difficulties, of those noble qualities of human +nature--courage, patience, endurance, and fortitude. + +Some hold these virtues in less estimation, and assign base and +contemptible motives to those who indulge in our innocent sport. + + "Be thou chaste as ice, as pure as snow, thou shalt not escape calumny." + +Others, again, who are not detractors, find mountaineering, as a sport, to +be wholly unintelligible. It is not greatly to be wondered at--we are not +all constituted alike. Mountaineering is a pursuit essentially adapted to +the young or vigorous, and not to the old or feeble. To the latter, toil +may be no pleasure; and it is often said by such persons, "This man is +making a toil of pleasure." Let the motto on the title-page be an answer, +if an answer be required. Toil he must who goes mountaineering; but out of +the toil comes strength (not merely muscular energy--more than that), an +awakening of all the faculties; and from the strength arises pleasure. +Then, again, it is often asked, in tones which seem to imply that the +answer must, at least, be doubtful, "But does it repay you?" Well, we +cannot estimate our enjoyment as you measure your wine, or weigh your +lead,--it is real, nevertheless. If I could blot out every reminiscence, or +erase every memory, still I should say that my scrambles amongst the Alps +have repaid me, for they have given me two of the best things a man can +possess--health and friends. + +The recollections of past pleasures cannot be effaced. Even now as I write +they crowd up before me. First comes an endless series of pictures, +magnificent in form, effect, and colour. I see the great peaks, with +clouded tops, seeming to mount up for ever and ever; I hear the music of +the distant herds, the peasant's jodel, and the solemn church-bells; and I +scent the fragrant breath of the pines: and after these have passed away, +another train of thoughts succeeds--of those who have been upright, brave, +and true; of kind hearts and bold deeds; and of courtesies received at +stranger hands, trifles in themselves, but expressive of that good will +towards men which is the essence of charity. + +Still, the last, sad memory hovers round, and sometimes drifts across like +floating mist, cutting off sunshine, and chilling the remembrance of +happier times. There have been joys too great to be described in words, +and there have been griefs upon which I have not dared to dwell; and with +these in mind I say, Climb if you will, but remember that courage and +strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may +destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; look well to +each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end. + + [Illustration: The end] + + + + + + + APPENDIX. + + + + + *A.* THE DEATH OF BENNEN.(253) + + +On February 28, 1864, Mr. P. C. Gosset and Mr. B---- started from the +village of Ardon (about mid-way between Sion and Martigny), to make the +ascent of the Haut-de-Cry (9688 feet), with the guides J. J. Nance, F. +Rebot, A. Bevard, and J. J. Bennen. They arrived within a few hundred feet +of the summit before mid-day, and determined to complete the ascent by +following the crest of a ridge leading towards the east. Before this could +be done it was necessary to cross some steep snow; and, while passing +this, an avalanche was unfortunately started. Bennen and Mr. B---- perished; +the others happily escaped. The following narrative, from the pen of Mr. +Gosset, illustrates, in a very impressive manner, the danger of traversing +new-fallen snow at considerable inclinations:-- + + + "We had to go up a steep snow-field, about 800 feet high, as well + as I remember. It was about 150 feet broad at the top, and 400 or + 500 at the bottom. It was a sort of couloir on a large scale. + During the ascent we sank about one foot deep at every step. + Bennen did not seem to like the look of the snow very much. He + asked the local guides whether avalanches ever came down this + couloir, to which they answered that our position was perfectly + safe. We had mounted on the northern side of the couloir, and + having arrived at 150 feet from the top, we began crossing it on a + horizontal curve, so as to gain the E. arête. The inflexion or dip + of the couloir was slight, not above 25 feet, the inclination near + 35°. We were walking in the following order:--Bevard, Nance, + Bennen, myself, B., and Rebot. Having crossed over about + three-quarters of the breadth of the couloir, the two leading men + suddenly sank considerably above their waists. Bennen tightened + the rope. The snow was too deep to think of getting out of the + hole they had made, so they advanced one or two steps, dividing + the snow with their bodies. Bennen turned round and told us he was + afraid of starting an avalanche; we asked whether it would not be + better to return and cross the couloir higher up. To this the + three Ardon men opposed themselves; they mistook the proposed + precaution for fear, and the two leading men continued their work. + After three or four steps gained in the aforesaid manner, the snow + became hard again. Bennen had not moved--he was evidently undecided + what he should do; as soon, however, as he saw hard snow again, he + advanced and crossed parallel to, but above, the furrow the Ardon + men had made. Strange to say, the snow supported him. While he was + passing I observed that the leader, Bevard, had ten or twelve feet + of rope coiled round his shoulder. I of course at once told him to + uncoil it and get on the arête, from which he was not more than + fifteen feet distant. Bennen then told me to follow. I tried his + steps, but sank up to my waist in the very first. So I went + through the furrows, holding my elbows close to my body, so as not + to touch the sides. This furrow was about twelve feet long, and as + the snow was good on the other side, we had all come to the false + conclusion that the snow was accidentally softer there than + elsewhere. Bennen advanced; he had made but a few steps when we + heard a deep, cutting sound. The snow-field split in two about + fourteen or fifteen feet above us. The cleft was at first quite + narrow, not more than an inch broad. An awful silence ensued; it + lasted but a few seconds, and then it was broken by Bennen's + voice, 'We are all lost.' His words were slow and solemn, and + those who knew him felt what they really meant when spoken by such + a man as Bennen. They were his last words. I drove my alpenstock + into the snow, and brought the weight of my body to bear on it. I + then waited. It was an awful moment of suspense. I turned my head + towards Bennen to see whether he had done the same thing. To my + astonishment I saw him turn round, face the valley, and stretch + out both arms. The snow on which we stood began to move slowly, + and I felt the utter uselessness of any alpenstock. I soon sank up + to my shoulders, and began descending backwards. From this moment + I saw nothing of what had happened to the rest of the party. With + a good deal of trouble I succeeded in turning round. The speed of + the avalanche increased rapidly, and before long I was covered up + with snow. I was suffocating when I suddenly came to the surface + again. I was on a wave of the avalanche, and saw it before me as I + was carried down. It was the most awful sight I ever saw. The head + of the avalanche was already at the spot where we had made our + last halt. The head alone was preceded by a thick cloud of + snow-dust; the rest of the avalanche was clear. Around me I heard + the horrid hissing of the snow, and far before me the thundering + of the foremost part of the avalanche. To prevent myself sinking + again, I made use of my arms much in the same way as when swimming + in a standing position. At last I noticed that I was moving + slower; then I saw the pieces of snow in front of me stop at some + yards' distance; then the snow straight before me stopped, and I + heard on a large scale the same creaking sound that is produced + when a heavy cart passes over frozen snow in winter. I felt that I + also had stopped, and instantly threw up both arms to protect my + head in case I should again be covered up. I had stopped, but the + snow behind me was still in motion; its pressure on my body was so + strong, that I thought I should be crushed to death. This + tremendous pressure lasted but a short time; I was covered up by + snow coming from behind me. My first impulse was to try and + uncover my head--but this I could not do, the avalanche had frozen + by pressure the moment it stopped, and I was frozen in. Whilst + trying vainly to move my arms, I suddenly became aware that the + hands as far as the wrist had the faculty of motion. The + conclusion was easy, they must be above the snow. I set to work as + well as I could; it was time, for I could not have held out much + longer. At last I saw a faint glimmer of light. The crust above my + head was getting thinner, but I could not reach it any more with + my hands; the idea struck me that I might pierce it with my + breath. After several efforts I succeeded in doing so, and felt + suddenly a rush of air towards my mouth. I saw the sky again + through a little round hole. A dead silence reigned around me; I + was so surprised to be still alive, and so persuaded at the first + moment that none of my fellow-sufferers had survived, that I did + not even think of shouting for them. I then made vain efforts to + extricate my arms, but found it impossible; the most I could do + was to join the ends of my fingers, but they could not reach the + snow any longer. After a few minutes I heard a man shouting; what + a relief it was to know that I was not the sole survivor! to know + that perhaps he was not frozen in and could come to my assistance! + I answered; the voice approached, but seemed uncertain where to + go, and yet it was now quite near. A sudden exclamation of + surprise! Rebot had seen my hands. He cleared my head in an + instant, and was about to try and cut me out completely, when I + saw a foot above the snow, and so near to me that I could touch it + with my arms, although they were not quite free yet. I at once + tried to move the foot; it was my poor friend's. A pang of agony + shot through me as I saw that the foot did not move. Poor B. had + lost sensation, and was perhaps already dead. Rebot did his best: + after some time he wished me to help him, so he freed my arms a + little more so that I could make use of them. I could do but + little, for Rebot had torn the axe from my shoulder as soon as he + had cleared my head (I generally carry an axe separate from my + alpenstock--the blade tied to the belt, and the handle attached to + the left shoulder). Before coming to me Rebot had helped Nance out + of the snow; he was lying nearly horizontally, and was not much + covered over. Nance found Bevard, who was upright in the snow, but + covered up to the head. After about twenty minutes the two + last-named guides came up. I was at length taken out; the snow had + to be cut with the axe down to my feet before I could be pulled + out. A few minutes after one o'clock P.M. we came to my poor + friend's face.... I wished the body to be taken out completely, + but nothing could induce the three guides to work any longer, from + the moment they saw that it was too late to save him. I + acknowledge that they were nearly as incapable of doing anything + as I was. When I was taken out of the snow the cord had to be cut. + We tried the end going towards Bennen, but could not move it; it + went nearly straight down, and showed us that there was the grave + of the bravest guide the Valais ever had, and ever will have. The + cold had done its work on us; we could stand it no longer, and + began the descent." + + + + + *B.* STRUCK BY LIGHTNING UPON THE MATTERHORN.(254) + + +[Mr. B. B. Heathcote, of Chingford, Essex, whilst attempting to ascend the +Matterhorn by the southern route, was unfortunately used as a +lightning-conductor, when he was within 500 feet of the summit of the +mountain. It may be observed that the Matterhorn (like all isolated Alpine +rock summits) is frequently struck by lightning. Signor Giordano has +pointed out elsewhere that he found numerous traces of electric discharges +upon its summit.](255) + + + "On July 30, 1869, in company with Peter Perrn,(256) Peter + Taugwalder junior, and Jos. Maquignaz, I commenced the ascent. The + atmosphere was clear, and the wind southerly. When very near to + the summit an extremely loud thunder-clap was heard, and we + thought it prudent to descend. We commenced the descent in the + following order:--Taugwalder first, myself next, then Perrn, and + Maquignaz last. On approaching the Col do Felicité(257) I received + a sharp, stinging blow on the leg, and thought, at first, that a + stone had been dislodged; but a loud thunder-clap at once told me + what it was. Perrn also said that he had been hit on the leg. In a + few moments I received a hit on the right arm, which seemed to run + along it, and resembled a shock from a galvanic battery. At the + same time all the men gave a startled shriek, and exclaimed that + they were hit by lightning. The storm continued near us for some + little time, and then gradually died away. On arriving at the + _cabane_ I found that Perrn had a long sore on his arm; next + morning his leg was much swollen and very weak. We descended to + Breil on the following day, and crossed to Zermatt. The same day + my hand began to swell, and it continued very weak for about a + week. Maquignaz's neck was much swollen on each side; the + lightning hitting him (according to his account) on the back, and + upon each side of the neck. Taugwalder's leg was also slightly + swollen. The thunder was tremendous--louder than I have ever heard + it before. There was no wind, nor rain, and everything was in a + mist." + + + + + *C.* NOTE TO CHAPTER VII. + + +It was stated in the commencement of this chapter that the Pointe des +Ecrins was the highest mountain in France. I have learned, since that +paragraph was written, that Captain Mieulet has determined that the height +of the Aiguille Verte is 13,540 feet; that mountain is consequently 78 +feet higher than the Pointe des Ecrins, and is the highest in France. + + + + + *D.* SUBSEQUENT HISTORY OF THE MATTERHORN.(258) + + +The Val Tournanche natives who started to facilitate the way up the +south-west ridge of the Matterhorn for MM. Giordano and Sella, pitched +their tent upon my third platform, at the foot of the Great Tower (12,992 +feet), and enjoyed several days of bad weather under its shelter. On the +first fine day (13th of July) they began their work, and about midday on +the 14th got on to the "shoulder," and arrived at the base of the final +peak (the point where Bennen stopped on July 28, 1862). The counsels of +the party were then divided. Two--Jean-Antoine Carrel and Joseph +Maquignaz--wished to go on; the others were not eager about it. A +discussion took place, and the result was they all commenced to descend, +and whilst upon the "cravate" (13,524) they heard our cries from the +summit.(259) Upon the 15th they went down to Breil and reported their +ill-success to M. Giordano (see p. 281). That gentleman was naturally much +disappointed, and pressed the men to set out again.(260) Said he, "Until +now I have striven for the honour of making the first ascent,--fate has +decided against me,--I am beaten. Patience! Now, if I make further +sacrifices it will be on your account, for your honour, and for your +interests. Will you start again to settle the question, or, at least, to +let there be no more uncertainty?" The majority of the men (in fact the +whole of them with the exception of Jean-Antoine) refused point-blank to +have anything more to do with the mountain. Carrel, however, stepped +forward, saying, "As for me, I have not given it up; if you (turning to +the Abbé Gorret) or the others will come, I will start again immediately." +"Not I!" said one. "No more for me," cried a second. "If you would give me +a thousand francs I would not go back," said a third. The Abbé Gorret +alone volunteered. This plucky priest was concerned in the very first +attempts upon the mountain,(261) and is an enthusiastic mountaineer. +Carrel and the Abbé would have set out by themselves had not J. B. Bich +and J.-A. Meynet (two men in the employ of Favre the innkeeper) come +forward at the last moment. M. Giordano also wished to accompany them, but +the men knew the nature of the work they had to undertake, and positively +declined to be accompanied by an amateur. + +These four men left Breil at 6.30 A.M. on July 16, at 1 P.M. arrived at +the third tent-platform, and there passed the night. At daybreak on the +17th they continued the ascent by the route which had been taken before; +passed successively the Great Tower, the "crête du coq," the "cravate," +and the "shoulder,"(262) and at 10 A.M. gained the point at the foot of +the final peak from which the explorers had turned back on the 14th.(263) +They had then about 800 feet to accomplish, and, says the Abbé, "nous +allions entrer en pays inconnu, aucun n'étant jamais allé aussi loin." + +The passage of the cleft which stopped Bennen was accomplished, and then +the party proceeded directly towards the summit, over rocks which for some +distance were not particularly difficult. The steep cliffs down which we +had hurled stones (on the 14th) then stopped their way, and Carrel led +round to the left or Z'Mutt side. The work at this part was of the very +greatest difficulty, and stones and icicles which fell rendered the +position of the party very precarious;(264) so much so that they preferred +to turn up directly towards the summit, and climb by rocks that the Abbé +termed "almost perpendicular." He added, "This part occupied the most +time, and gave us the greatest trouble." At length they arrived at a fault +in the rocks which formed a roughly horizontal gallery. They crept along +this in the direction of a ridge that descended towards the north-west, or +thereabouts, and when close to the ridge, found that they could not climb +on to it; but they perceived that, by descending a gully with +perpendicular sides, they could reach the ridge at a lower point. The bold +Abbé was the heaviest and the strongest of the four, and he was sacrificed +for the success of the expedition. He and Meynet remained behind, and +lowered the others, one by one, into the gully. Carrel and Bich clambered +up the other side, attained the ridge descending towards the north-west, +shortly afterwards gained an "easy route, they galloped,"(265) and in a +few minutes reached the southern end of the summit-ridge. + +The time of their arrival does not appear to have been noticed. It was +late in the day, I believe about 3 P.M. Carrel and his comrade only waited +long enough to plant a flag by the side of the cairn that we had built +three days previously, then descended at once, rejoined the others, and +all four hurried down as fast as possible to the tent. They were so +pressed for time that they could not eat! and it was 9 P.M. before they +arrived at their camp at the foot of the Great Tower. In descending they +followed the gallery above mentioned throughout its entire length, and so +avoided the very difficult rocks over which they had passed on the ascent. +As they were traversing the length of the "shoulder" they witnessed the +phenomenon to which I have already adverted at the foot of p. 289. + +When Carrel and Bich were near the summit they saw our traces upon the +Matterhorngletscher, and suspected that an accident had occurred; they did +not, however, hear of the Matterhorn catastrophe until their return to +Breil, at 3 P.M. upon the 18th. The details of that sad event were in the +mouths of all, and it was not unnaturally supposed, in the absence of +correct information, that the accident was a proof that the northern side +was frightfully dangerous. The safe return of the four Italians was +regarded, on the other hand, as evidence that the Breil route was the +best. Those who were interested (either personally or otherwise) in the +Val Tournanche made the most of the circumstances, and trumpeted the +praises of the southern route. Some went farther, and instituted +comparisons between the two routes to the disadvantage of the northern +one, and were pleased to term our expedition on the 13-14th of July +precipitate, and so forth. Considering the circumstances which caused us +to leave the Val Tournanche on the 12th of July, these remarks were not in +the best possible taste, but I have no feeling regarding them. There may +be some, however, who may be interested in a comparison of the two routes, +and for their sakes I will place the essential points in juxtaposition. We +(that is the Taugwalders and myself) were absent from Zermatt 53 hours. +Excluding halts and stoppages of one sort or another, the ascent and +descent occupied us 23 hours. Zermatt is 5315 feet above the level of the +sea, and the Matterhorn is 14,780; we had therefore to ascend 9465 feet. +As far as the point marked 10,820 feet the way was known, so we had to +find the way over only 3960 feet. The members of our party (I now include +all) were very unequal in ability, and none of us could for a moment be +compared as cragsmen with Jean-Antoine Carrel. The four Italians who +started from Breil on the 16th of July were absent during 56½ hours, and +as far as I can gather from the published account, and from conversation +with the men, excluding halts, they took for the ascent and descent 23¾ +hours. The hotel at Breil is 6890 feet above the sea, so they had to +ascend 7890 feet. As far as the end of the "shoulder" the way was known to +Carrel, and he had to find the way over only about 800 feet. All four men +were born mountaineers, good climbers, and they were led by the most +expert cragsman I have seen. The weather in each instance was fine. It is +seen, therefore, that these four nearly equally matched men took a +_longer_ time to ascend 1500 feet _less_ height than ourselves, although +we had to find the way over more than four times as much untrodden ground +as they. This alone would lead any mountaineer to suppose that their route +must have been more difficult than ours.(266) I know the greater part of +the ground over which they passed, and from my knowledge, and from the +account of Mr. Grove, I am sure that their route was not only more +difficult, but that it was _much_ more difficult than ours. + +This was not the opinion in the Val Tournanche at the end of 1865, and the +natives confidently reckoned that tourists would flock to their side in +preference to the other. It was, I believe, the late Canon Carrel of Aosta +(who always took great interest in such matters) who first proposed the +construction of a _cabane_ upon the southern side of the Matterhorn. The +project was taken up with spirit, and funds for its execution were +speedily provided--principally by the members of the Italian Alpine Club, +or by their friends. The indefatigable Carrel found a natural hole upon +the ledge called the "cravate" (13,524), and this, in course of time, was +turned, under his direction, into a respectable little hut. Its position +is superb, and gives a view of the most magnificent character. + +Whilst this work was being carried out, my friend Mr. F. Craufurd Grove +consulted me respecting the ascent of the Matterhorn. I recommended him to +ascend by the northern route, and to place himself in the hands of +Jean-Antoine Carrel. Mr. Grove found, however, that Carrel distinctly +preferred the southern side, and they ascended accordingly by the Breil +route. Mr. Grove has been good enough to supply the following account of +his expedition. He carries on my description of the southern route from +the highest point I attained on that side (a little below the "cravate") +to the summit, and thus renders complete my descriptions of the two sides. + + + "In August 1867 I ascended the Matterhorn from Breil, taking as + guides three mountaineers of the Val Tournanche--J. A. Carrel, J. + Bich, and S. Meynet,--Carrel being the leader. At that time the + Matterhorn had not been scaled since the famous expedition of the + Italian guides mentioned above. + + + "Our route was identical with that which they followed in their + descent when, as will be seen, they struck out on one part of the + mountain a different line from that which they had taken in + ascending. After gaining the Col du Lion, we climbed the + south-western or Breil _arête_ by the route which has been + described in these pages, passing the night at the then unfinished + hut constructed by the Italian Alpine Club on the 'cravate.' + Starting from the hut at daylight, we reached at an early hour the + summit of the 'shoulder,' and then traversed its _arête_ to the + final peak of the Matterhorn. The passage of this _arête_ was + perhaps the most enjoyable part of the whole expedition. The + ridge, worn by slow irregular decay into monstrous and rugged + battlements, and guarded on each side by tremendous precipices, is + grand beyond all description, but does not, strange to say, + present any remarkable difficulty to the climber, save that it is + exceedingly trying to the head. Great care is of course necessary, + but the scramble is by no means of so arduous a nature as entirely + to absorb the attention; so that a fine climb, and rock scenery, + of grandeur perhaps unparalleled in the Alps, can both be + appreciated. + + + "It was near the end of this _arête_, close to the place where it + abuts against the final peak, that Professor Tyndall's party + turned in 1862,(267) arrested by a cleft in the ridge. From the + point where they stopped the main tower of the Matterhorn rises in + front of the climber, abrupt, magnificent, and apparently + inaccessible. The summit is fully 750 feet in vertical height + above this spot, and certainly, to my eye, appeared to be + separated from me by a yet more considerable interval; for I + remember, when at the end of the _arête_, looking upward at the + crest of the mountain, and thinking that it must be a good 1000 + feet above me. + + + "When the Italian guides made their splendid ascent, they + traversed the _arête_ of the shoulder to the main peak, passed the + cleft which has been mentioned (p. 90), clambered on to the + tremendous north-western face of the mountain (described by Mr. + Whymper at pp. 277 and 282), and then endeavoured to cross this + face so as to get on to the Z'Mutt _arête_.(268) The passage of + this slope proved a work of great difficulty and danger. I saw it + from very near the place which they traversed, and was unable to + conceive how any human creatures managed to crawl over rocks so + steep and so treacherous. After they had got about half-way + across, they found the difficulties of the route and the danger + from falling stones so great, that they struck straight up the + mountain, in the hope of finding some safer way. They were to a + certain extent successful, for they came presently to a small + ledge, caused by a sort of fault in the rock, running horizontally + across the north-western face of the mountain a little distance + below the summit. Traversing this ledge, the Italians found + themselves close to the Z'Mutt _arête_, but still separated from + it by a barrier, to outflank which it was necessary to descend a + perpendicular gully. Carrel and Bich were lowered down this, the + other two men remaining at the top to haul up their companions on + their return, as otherwise they could not have got up again. + Passing on to the Z'Mutt _arête_ without further difficulty, + Carrel and Bich climbed by that ridge to the summit of the + mountain. In returning, the Italians kept to the ledge for the + whole distance across the north-western face, and descended to the + place where the _arête_ of the shoulder abuts against the main + peak by a sort of rough ridge of rocks between the north-western + and southern faces. When I ascended in 1867, we followed this + route in the ascent and in the descent. I thought the ledge + difficult, in some places decidedly dangerous, and should not care + to set foot on it again; but assuredly it neither is so difficult + nor so continuously dangerous as those gaunt and pitiless + rock-slopes which the Italians crossed in their upward route. + + + [Illustration: THE HUT (CABANE) ON THE ZERMATT SIDE OF THE MATTERHORN. + FROM A PHOTOGRAPH BY THE AUTHOR.] + + + "The credit of making the _Italian_ ascent of the Matterhorn + belongs undoubtedly to J.-A. Carrel and to the other mountaineers + who accompanied him. Bennen led his party bravely and skilfully to + a point some 750 feet below the top. From this point, however, + good guide though he was, Bennen had to retire defeated; and it + was reserved for the better mountain-craft of the Valtournanche + guide to win the difficult way to the summit of the Matterhorn." + + +Mr. Craufurd Grove was the first traveller who ascended the Matterhorn +after the accident, and the natives of Val Tournanche were, of course, +greatly delighted that his ascent was made upon their side. Some of them, +however, were by no means well pleased that J.-A. Carrel was so much +regarded. They feared, perhaps, that he would acquire the monopoly of the +mountain. Just a month after Mr. Grove's ascent, six Valtournanchians set +out to see whether they could not learn the route, and so come in for a +share of the good things which were expected to arrive. They were three +Maquignaz's, Cæsar Carrel (my old guide), J.-B. Carrel, and a daughter of +the last named! They left Breil at 5 A.M. on Sept. 12, and at 3 P.M. +arrived at the hut, where they passed the night. At 7 A.M. the next day +they started again (leaving J.-B. Carrel behind), and proceeded along the +"shoulder" to the final peak; passed the cleft which had stopped Bennen, +and clambered up the comparatively easy rocks on the other side until they +arrived at the base of the last precipice, down which we had hurled stones +on July 14, 1865. They (young woman and all) were then about 350 feet from +the summit! Then, instead of turning to the left, as Carrel and Mr. Grove +had done, Joseph and J.-Pierre Maquignaz paid attention to the cliff in +front of them, and managed to find a means of passing up, by clefts, +ledges, and gullies, to the summit. This was a shorter (and it appears to +be an easier) route than that taken by Carrel and Grove, and it has been +followed by all those who have since then ascended the mountain from the +side of Breil.(269) Subsequently, a rope was fixed over the most difficult +portions of the final climb. + +In the meantime they had not been idle upon the other side. A hut was +constructed upon the eastern face, at a height of 12,526 feet above the +sea, near to the crest of the ridge which descends towards Zermatt +(north-east ridge). This was done at the expense of Monsieur Seiler and of +the Swiss Alpine Club. Mons. Seiler placed the execution of the work under +the direction of the Knubels, of the village of St. Nicholas, in the +Zermatt valley; and Peter Knubel, along with Joseph Marie Lochmatter of +the same village, had the honour of making the second ascent of the +mountain upon the northern side with Mr. Elliott. This took place on July +24-25, 1868. Since then very numerous ascents have been made both on the +Swiss and upon the Italian side. The list of ascents will, however, show +that far more have been made by the Zermatt or northern route than by the +Breil or southern route. + + [Illustration: THE CHAPEL AT THE SCHWARZSEE.] + +Mr. Elliott supposed that he avoided the place where the accident +occurred, and that he improved the northern route. This, however, is not +the case. Both he and the others who have succeeded him have followed in +all essential points the route which we took upon July 13-15, 1865, with +the exception of the deviations which I will point out. Upon leaving +Zermatt, the traveller commences by crossing a bridge which is commonly +termed the Matterhorn bridge, and proceeds to the chapel at the +Schwarzsee. Thence he mounts the Hörnli, and follows its ridge along its +entire length right up to the foot of the Matterhorn. There is now a good +path along the whole of this ridge, but when we traversed it for the First +Ascent there was not even so much as a faintly marked track. The first +steps which are taken upon the mountain itself follow the exact line over +which I myself led upon the first ascent, and the track presently passes +over the precise spot upon which our tent was placed in 1865. In 1874, and +again in 1876, I saw the initials which I marked on the rock by the side +of our tent. The route now taken passes this rock, and then goes round the +corner of the buttress to which I referred upon p. 276. At this point the +route now followed deviates somewhat from the line of our ascent, and goes +more directly up to the part of the north-east ridge upon which the +_Cabane_ is placed. We bore more away on to the face of the mountain, and +proceeded more directly towards the summit. At the upper part of the +ascent of the north-east ridge the route now taken is exactly that of the +first ascent until the foot of the final peak is reached; and there, +instead of bearing away to the right, as we did, the tourist now clambers +up directly towards the summit by means of the fixed ropes and chains. The +final portion of the ascent, over the snow at the summit, again follows +our route. + + [Illustration: THE SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1874 (NORTHERN END).] + +So far as the _Cabane_ there is now a strongly marked track, almost a +path, over the mountain; and little piles of stones, placed in prominent +situations, point out the way even to the dullest person. What the +_Cabane_ itself is like will be seen by reference to the illustration +which faces p. 309. It is placed in a very insecure position, and will +probably one of these days disappear by disintegration. It is not easy at +this part of the mountain to find a good situation for a hut, though there +is plenty of choice both higher up and lower down. + +Amongst the ascents that have been made which are most worthy of note, +that made by Signor Giordano may be mentioned first. This gentleman came +to Breil several times after his famous visit in 1865, with the intention +of making the ascent, but he was always baffled by the weather. In July +1866 he got as high as the "cravate" (with J. A. Carrel and other men) and +_was detained there five days and nights, unable to move either up or +down_. At last, upon Sept. 3-5, 1868, he was able to gratify his desires, +and accomplished the feat of ascending the mountain on one side and +descending it upon the other. Signor Giordano is, I believe, the only +geologist who has ascended the mountain. He spent a considerable time in +the examination of its structure, and became benighted on its eastern face +in consequence. I am indebted to him for the valuable note and the +accompanying section which follow the Table of Ascents. Signor Giordano +carried a mercurial barometer throughout the entire distance, and read it +frequently. His observations have enabled me to determine with confidence +and accuracy the heights which were attained upon the different attempts +to ascend the mountain, and the various points upon it which have been so +frequently mentioned throughout this volume. + +Questions having been frequently put to me respecting the immediate summit +of the Matterhorn, and difficulties having been expressed as to the +recognition of the two views given upon pp. 279 and 281, I made an ascent +of the mountain in 1874 to photograph the summit, in order that I might +see what changes had occurred since our visit of ten years before. The +summits of all high mountains vary from time to time, and I was not +surprised to find that the Matterhorn was no exception to the general +rule. It was altogether sharper and narrower in 1874 than 1865. Instead of +being able "to run about," every step had to be painfully cut with the +axe; and the immediate summit, instead of being a blunt and rounded +eminence, was a little piled-up cone of snow which went to a very sharp +point. Our photographic operations were conducted with difficulty, for a +furious north wind was blowing which would have whisked away the camera +immediately if it had been set up in the most convenient position for +taking a view; and we were compelled to cut a great gash in the snow and +to work down upon the edge of the cliff overlooking Breil before we could +escape from the gusts which were whirling away the snow in writhing +eddies. My guides J. A. Carrel, Bic, and Lochmatter formed a strong party, +and eventually we gained a position, protected from the wind, whence there +was a good view of the summit; but our ledge was so small that we could +not venture to unrope, and Carrel had to squat down whilst I photographed +over his head. The engraving upon p. 311 has been made from the photograph +so taken. It will interest some of my readers to know that the nearest +peak, seen below, is the summit of the Dent d'Hérens. + +The light was not favourable for photographing the _Cabane_ when we +returned from the summit, and I stopped alone with Carrel in it for a +second night in order to get the morning light on the next day. Whilst +quietly reposing inside, I was startled to hear a rustling and crackling +sound, and jumped up, expecting that the building was about to take itself +off to lower quarters; and presently I perceived that the hut had a tenant +to whom I certainly did not expect to be introduced. A little, plump mouse +came creeping out over the floor, being apparently of opinion that there +ought not to be any one there at that time of day. It wandered about +picking up stray fragments of food, occasionally crunching a bit of +egg-shell, totally unaware of my presence, for I made out that the little +animal was both blind and deaf. It would have been easy to capture it, but +I would not do so, and left it there to keep company with other solitary +tourists. + +The view from the _Cabane_ extends from the Bietschhorn on the north to +the Grand Tournalin in the south; and includes the Mischabel group, the +Allalleinhorn and Alphubel, Mont Rosa, etc. etc. Its situation is not high +enough to overlook those mountains, and so the prospect is very similar to +the northern and eastern half of the view from the Riffel. The uppermost +800 feet of the Matterhorn can be seen from the hut, but the rest of the +part above it is not visible, being hidden by a small ridge which projects +from the face. Whilst stopping in the _Cabane_ we had the insecurity of +its position forcibly impressed upon us by seeing a huge block break away +from the rock at its side, and go crashing down over the very route which +is commonly pursued by tourists. + +The year 1879 is a memorable one in the history of the Matterhorn, for in +it there occurred two deaths upon the mountain, and two new routes were +discovered. Sufficient information has not come to hand at the time I +write upon what is termed the "_affaire Brantschen_" to enable one to form +a correct opinion about that lamentable business, and it is enough to say +that upon August 12 a party started from Breil, composed of Dr. Lüscher, +Prof. Schiess, and the guides J. M. Lochmatter, Jos. Brantschen, and +Petryson of Evolena. They gained the hut on the "cravate" in due course, +and on the following day the party crossed the mountain to Zermatt, with +the exception of Brantschen, who was left behind in the hut, some say only +slightly ill, and others at the point of death. Which of these was the +case is only known by those concerned. They sent back assistance to their +comrade in a somewhat tardy fashion, and when the relief party gained the +hut Brantschen was found dead. + +At the time that this was taking place on the southern side of the +Matterhorn, an accident occurred on the north-east face by which a life +was lost. Messrs. A. E. Craven and Dr. Moseley (of Boston), with the +guides Peter Rubi and C. Inabnit, left Zermatt at 10.30 P.M. on the night +of August 13, and ascended the mountain by the usual northern route +without stopping at the hut. They reached the summit at 9 A.M. on the +14th, and had returned to within a short distance of the hut, when Dr. +Moseley (who had found it irksome to be tied up, and had frequently wished +to go unroped) untied himself from the rest, doing so entirely upon his +own responsibility. A few minutes later, and within quite a short distance +of the hut, the party had to cross a projecting piece of rock. Rubi went +over first, and planted his axe in position to give firm footing to Dr. +Moseley, who followed. But, unhappily, he declined assistance; placed his +hand on the rock, and endeavoured to vault over it. In doing so he +slipped, lost hold of his axe, and fell with ever accelerating velocity +down almost the whole of the north-east face. He fell about 2000 feet, and +was of course killed on the spot. His body was recovered three days later, +and was interred in the English burying-ground at Zermatt. + +Many persons have talked at different times about the possibility of +finding a way up the Matterhorn from the side of the Z'Mutt glacier; but +it was not until the year 1879 that a way was found. On September 2-3, Mr. +A. F. Mummery, with the guides ? and ? , succeeded in gaining the +summit by first going up the long buttress of snow which runs out from the +mountain to the Z'Mutt glacier, and then up the rocks above. I have been +unable to procure any details respecting this expedition and my only +information about it has been derived from Mr. Baumann, who followed in +Mr. Mummery's traces three days later. Mr. Baumann says: "We followed the +long ice-slope to its extreme upper end, then the jagged arête above it +for a short distance, and then deviated a little to the right, climbing by +a secondary rocky ridge descending towards the Stockhi until within an +hour of the summit, when we struck the main Z'Mutt arête and so completed +the ascent by joining the Breil route." + +At the very time that Mr. Mummery was occupied in his expedition, Mr. W. +Penhall, with the guides F. Imseng and L. Sorbriehen, was engaged in a +similar enterprise, and also ascended the Matterhorn from the direction of +the Stockhi. He, however, at the first took a route closer to the +Tiefenmatten glacier, though he at last, like the others, eventually got +upon the main Z'Mutt arête and completed the ascent by following a portion +of the Breil route. + +Neither Mr. Mummery, nor Messrs. Baumann and Penhall, descended by the +routes which they struck out, and in each case the respective parties +descended by the northern or Zermatt route. It is therefore at present +impossible to determine the relative difficulty of the various routes up +the mountain. Still, I think that the great majority of tourists will, as +heretofore, prefer the ordinary Zermatt route, and that comparatively few +will patronize the newly-discovered ones. + +The ascent of the Matterhorn has now taken its place amongst those which +are considered fashionable, and many persons get upon it who ought not to +be upon a mountain at all. Although much has been done on both sides of it +to facilitate the routes, and although they are much easier to traverse +than they were in years gone by, it is still quite possible to get into +trouble upon them, and to come utterly to grief. Considering how large a +number of entirely incompetent persons venture upon the mountain, it is +surprising so few meet with accidents; but if the number of accidents +continues to increase at its present rate it will, ere long, not be easy +to find a place of interment in the English churchyard at Zermatt. + + + + +*E.* TABLE OF ATTEMPTS MADE TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN PREVIOUS TO THE FIRST + ASCENT. + + + +No. of Date. Names. Side upon Greatest REMARKS. +Attempt. which Height + the Attempt attained. + was + made, and + Place + arrived at. + + 1 1858-9. J.-Antoine Breil side 12,650 Several attempts + Carrel. "Chimney." were made before + J.-Jacques this height was + Carrel attained; the men + Victor Carrel. concerned cannot + Gab. Maquignaz. remember how many. + Abbé Gorret. See p. 46. + + 1860. + 2 July Alfred Zermatt 11,500? Without guides. + Parker. side P. 46-7. + Charles East face. + Parker. + Sandbach + Parker. + + 3 August V. Hawkins. Breil side 12,992 Guides--J. J. + J. Tyndall. Hawkins got 13,050? Bennen and + to foot of J.-Jacques + "Great Tower," Carrel. Pp. 47-9. + Tyndall a few + feet higher. + + 1861. + 4 July Messrs. Zermatt 11,700? No guides. + Parker side P. 49. + East face. + + 5 Aug. 29 J.-Antoine Breil side 13,230 See p. 57. + Carrel. "Crête du + J.-Jacques Coq." + Carrel. + + 6 Aug. 29-30 Edward Breil side 12,650 Camped upon the + Whymper "Chimney." mountain, with + an Oberland + guide. Pp. 51-7. + + 1862. + 7 January T. S. Zermatt 11,000? Winter attempt. + Kennedy side Pp. 58-9. + East face. + + 8 July 7-8 R. J. S. Breil side 12,000 Guides--Johann zum + Macdonald. Arête below Taugwald and + Edward "Chimney." Johann Kronig. + Whymper. Pp. 64-5. + + 9 July 9-10 R. J. S. Breil side 12,992 Guides--J.-A. + Macdonald. "Great Carrel and + Edward Tower." Pession. P. 66. + Whymper. + + " July 18-19 " " Breil side 13,400 Alone. Pp. + Somewhat 67-79. + higher than + the lowest part + of the "Cravate." + + 10 July 23-24 " " Breil side 13,150 Guides--J.-A. + "Crête du Carrel, Cæsar + Coq." Carrel, and Luc + Meynet. P. 80. + + 11 July 25-26 " " Breil side 13,460 With Luc Meynet. + Nearly as Pp. 81-2. + high as the + highest part + of the "Cravate." + + 12 July 27-28 J. Tyndall Breil side 13,970 Guides--J. J. + "The Bennen and Anton + Shoulder," Walter; porters-- + to foot of J.-Antoine + final peak. Carrel, Cæsar + Carrel, and + another. Pp. + 83-87, 90-92. + + 1863. + 13 Aug. 10-11 Edward Breil side 13,280 Guides--J.-A. + Whymper "Crête du Carrel, Cæsar + Coq." Carrel, Luc + Meynet, and two + porters. Pp. + 114-123. + + 1865. + 14 June 21. " " South-east 11,200? Guides--Michel + face Croz, Christian + Almer, Franz + Biener; porter--Luc + Meynet. Pp. + 231-235. + + + + + *F.* ASCENTS OF THE MATTERHORN. + + +No. of Date. Names. Route taken. REMARKS. +Ascent + 1865. + 1 July 13-15 Lord Francis Douglas. Zermatt Guides--Michel + D. Hadow. (Or Northern Croz, Peter + Charles Hudson. route.) Taugwalder + Edward Whymper. _père_, Peter + Taugwalder + _fils_. See + pp. 271-290. + + 2 July 16-18 Jean-Antoine Carrel. Breil The first two + J. Baptiste Bich. (Or Southern named only + Amé Gorret. route.) ascended to the + J.-Augustin Meynet. summit. See + pp. 282, 304-6. + + 1867. + 3 Aug. 13-15 F. Craufurd Grove Breil Guides--J. A. + Carrel, Salamon + Meynet, and + J. B. Bich. + + 4 Sept. 12-14 Jos. Maquignaz. Breil An easier route + J.-Pierre Maquignaz. was discovered + Victor Maquignaz. by this party + Cæsar Carrel. than that taken + J.-B. Carrel. upon July 17, + 1865. The first + two named only + ascended to the + summit. See + p. 309. + + 5 Oct. 1-3 W. Leighton Jordan Breil Guides--the + Maquignaz's just + named, Cæsar + Carrel, and F. + Ansermin. The + Maquignaz's and + Mr. Jordan alone + reached the + summit. + + 1868. + 6 July 24-25 J. M. Elliott Zermatt Guides--Jos. Marie + Lochmatter and + Peter Knubel. + + 7 July 26-28 J. Tyndall Up Breil Guides--Jos. and + side and Pierre Maquignaz, + down Zermatt and three others. + side. + + 8 Aug. 2-4 O. Hoiler. " ? Account given in + F. Thioly. hotel-book at + Breil is not + very clear. + Guides seem to + have been Jos. + and Victor + Maquignaz and + Elie Pession. + + 9 Aug. 3-4 G. E. Foster Zermatt Guides--Hans + Baumann, Peter + Bernett, and + Peter Knubel. + + 10 Aug. 8 Paul Guessfeldt Zermatt Guides--Jos. Marie + Lochmatter, + Nich. Knubel, and + Peter Knubel. + + 11 Sept. 1-2 A. G. Girdlestone. Zermatt Guides--Jos. Marie + F. Craufurd Grove. Lochmatter and + W. E. U. Kelso. the two Knubels. + + 12 Sept. 2-3 G. B. Marke Zermatt Guides--Nich. + Knubel and Pierre + Zurbriggen + (Saas). + + 13 Sept. 3-5 F. Giordano Up Breil Guides--J. A. + side and Carrel and + down Zermatt Jos. Maquignaz. + side. See p. 310. + + 14 Sept. 8-9 Paul Sauzet Breil Guides--J. A. + Carrel and Jos. + Maquignaz. + + 1869. + 15 July 20 James Eccles Breil Guides--J. A. + Carrel, Bich, + and two Payots + (Chamounix). + + 16 Aug. 26-27 R. B. Heathcote Breil Guides--The four + Maquignaz's (Val + Tournanche). + + 1870. + 17 July 20 (?) ? Zermatt No details have + come to hand. + + 1871. + 18 July 16-17 E. R. Whitwell Zermatt Guides--Ulrich + and Ch. Lauener. + + 19 July 21-22 F. Gardiner. Zermatt Guides--Peter + F. Walker. Perrn, P. Knubel, + Lucy Walker. N. Knubel, + Melchior + Anderegg, and + Heinrich + Anderegg. + + 20 ? -- Fowler Zermatt Guides--C. Knubel + and J. M. + Lochmatter. + + 21 Aug. 2-3 W. E. Utterson-Kelso Breil Guides--Victor + and Emmanuel + Maquignaz and + Joseph Gillioz. + + 22 Aug. 7-8 R. S. Lyle Breil Guides--J. J. + Maquignaz and ? + + 23 Aug. 18-19 C. E. Mathews. Breil Guides--J. A. + F. Morshead. Carrel and + Melchior + Anderegg, with + two porters. + + 24 Sept. 4-5 M. C. Brevoort. Zermatt to Breil Guides--Ch. + W. A. B. Coolidge. Almer, Ulr. + Almer, and N. + Knubel. + + 25 Sept. 7-8 R. Fowler Zermatt Guides--J. M. + Lochmatter + and P. Knubel. + + 1872. + 26 July 22-23 F. Gardiner. Zermatt to Breil Guides--J. + T. Middlemore. Maquignaz, + Peter Knubel, + and Johann Jaun. + + 27 July 21 H. Bicknell ? Guides--Not known. + + 28 July 24-25 R. Pendlebury. Zermatt to Breil Guides--Peter + W. M. Pendlebury. Taugwalder + C. Taylor. _fils_, Gabriel + Spechtenhauser, + and F. Imseng. + + 29 July 26 J. Jackson Breil to Zermatt Guides--Jos. + Maquignaz and + Anton Ritz. + + 30 July ? F. A. Wallroth ? Guides--Not known. + + 31 Aug. 29-30 A. Rothschild Zermatt Guides--Franz + Biener and two + Knubels. + + 32 Sept. 1-2 G. A. Passingham Zermatt Guides--F. Imseng + and Franz + Andermatten. + + 33 Sept. 9-10 H. Denning. Zermatt Guides--Melchior + E. Hutchins. Schlapp, Peter + J. Young. Rubi, and two + Knubels. + + 34 Sept. 10-11 L. Saunderson Zermatt Guides--Peter + Bohren and + Peter Knubel. + + 35 Sept. 11-12 E. Millidge Zermatt Guide-- -- + Pollinger. + + 36 Sept. 11-12 D. J. Abercromby Zermatt Guides--N. Knubel + and P. J. + Knubel. + + 37 Sept. 16-17 C. Bronzet Zermatt Guides--P. Knubel, + F. Truffer, and + J. Truffer. + + 1873. + 38 July 6-7 T. Cox. Zermatt Guides--Peter + J. Gardiner. Knubel and J. M. + Lochmatter. + + 39 July 6-7 C. Théraulaz Zermatt Guides--J. + Gillot and + Ignace Sarbach. + + 40 July 21-22 A. F. Leach Zermatt Guides--P. + Taugwalder + _fils_ and J. + M. Kronig. + + 41 July 21-22 T. A. Bishop Zermatt Guides--P. + Knubel, P. J. + Knubel, and F. + Devouassoud. + + 42 July 23-24 H. Salmond Breil Guides--Not known. + + 43 July 23-24 A. G. Puller. Breil to Zermatt Guides--J. A. + Carrel and Jos. + Maquignaz. + + 44 July 25-26 E. Leatham Zermatt Guides--P. + Knubel and + Joseph Imboden. + + 45 July 25-27 W. W. Simpson Breil to Zermatt Guides--J. A. + Carrel, P. + Maquignaz, and a + Chamounix guide. + + 46 July 29-30 M. Déchy Zermatt Guides--J. A. + Carrel and P. + Taugwalder + _fils_. + + 47 Aug. 3 J. Bischoff. Zermatt Guides-- + E. Burckhardt. + + 48 Aug. 6-7 Emile Veyrin Zermatt Guides--P. J. + Knubel; porter, + Joh. Knubel. + + 49 Aug. 9-10 L. Ewbank Zermatt Guides--J. M. and + Alex. Lochmatter. + + 50 Aug. 11 G. E. Hulton. Zermatt Guides--Ch. + F. C. Hulton. Lauener, Johann + Fischer, and + Peter Rubi. + + 51 Aug. 11-12 Marquis Maglioni Zermatt Guides--P. Knubel, + Edouard Capelin; + porter H. Knubel. + + 52 Aug. 14-15 F. Dawkins Zermatt Guides--Franz + Andermatten, A. + Burgener; porter, + Abraham Imseng. + + 53 Aug. 15-16 J. F. Bramston. Zermatt Guides--Melchior + F. Morshead. Anderegg, B. + C. H. Hawkins. Nageli, and J. + M. Lochmatter. + + 54 Aug. 16 H. S. Hoare Zermatt Guides--Johann + von Bergen and + A. Pollinger. + + 55 Aug. 18-22 E. Pigeon. Breil to Zermatt Guides--J. A. + -- Pigeon. Carrel, V. + Maquignaz, and J. + Martin. This + party was + confined in the + hut on the + Italian side from + the 18th to the + 21st of August, + by bad weather; + and in descending + upon the Zermatt + side it was + surprised by + night before the + _cabane_ could be + reached, and had + to pass the + night on the open + mountain-side. + + 56 Aug. 22-23 F. P. Barlow Zermatt Guides--Jakob + Anderegg and P. + Taugwalder + _fils_. + + 57 Oct 2-3 W. W. Stuart Breil to Zermatt Guides--Jos. + Maquignaz, F. + Bic, and Jos. + Balmat. + + 1874. + 58 July 14-15 T. G. Bonney Zermatt Guides--J. M. + Lochmatter and + J. Petrus. + + 59 July 17-18 F. Wolf Zermatt Guides--A. + Pollinger and + Jos. Lauber. + + 60 July 18-19 A. Millot and wife Zermatt Guides--Melchior + Anderegg, A. + Maurer, and P. + Taugwalder + _fils_. + + 61 July ? H. Lamb ? Guides--Not known. + + 62 July 19-20 J. Baumann Zermatt Guide-Ulrich + Lauener. + + 63 July 23-24 ? E. Javelle Breil to Zermatt Guides-- + + 64 July 27-29 L. K. Rankine Zermatt Guides--A. + Pollinger and + Jos. Längen. + + 65 Aug. 7 J. Birkbeck, Jun. Breil to Breil Guides--J. Petrus + and J. B. Bic. + Mr. Birkbeck and + his guides + started from + Breil, crossed + the mountain to + the northern + side, and + returned to + Breil, in 19 + hours. + + 66 Aug. 7-8 G. F. Cobb. Zermatt Guides--P. + S. Forster. Taugwalder + A. M. Tod. _fils_, Jos. + Taugwalder, and + A. Summermatter. + + 67 Aug. 7-8 M. Bramston Zermatt Guide--B. Nageli. + + 68 Aug. 12 G. Dévin Zermatt Guides--L. + Pollinger and + Henri Séraphin. + + 69 Aug. 19-20 L. N. Walford Zermatt Guides--Alex. + Burgener and B. + Venetz. + + 70 Aug. 20-21 A. D. Puckle Zermatt Guides--J. Petrus + and N. Knubel. + + 71 Aug. 20-21 R. Lindt Zermatt Guides--Ig. + Sarbach and + Peter Sulzer. + + 72 Aug. 20-22 Edward Whymper Zermatt Guides--J. A. + Carrel, J. B. + Bic, and J. M. + Lochmatter. An + ascent made for + the sake of + photography. + Passed two + nights in the + Zermatt + _cabane_. + + 73 Aug. 22-23 W. E. Davidson Zermatt Guides--Laurent + Lanier and Ig. + Sarbach. + + 74 Aug. 23 Prof. G. B---- ? Guides--P. + Prof. K---- Maquignaz, E. + Pession, and + Chas. Gorret. + Account is + illegible. + + 75 Aug. 25 F. W. Headley. Zermatt Guides--A. + E. P. Arnold. Pollinger and + J. J. Truffer. + + 76 Aug. 25 H. J. Smith Zermatt Guides--Alex. + Lochmatter and + Jos. Längen. + + 77 Aug. 25 M. J. Boswell Zermatt Guides--Jos. + Imboden and + Jos. Sarbach. + + 78 Aug. 26 W. J. Lewis Zermatt Guides--Moritz + Julen and Jos. + Taugwalder. + + 79 Aug. 27 W. Stirling Zermatt Guides--Johann + Petrus and + Franz Burgener. + + 80 Aug. 28 J. H. Pratt. Zermatt Guides--J. A. + -- Prothero. Carrel and P. + Knubel. Ascent + made in one day. + + 81 Aug. 31 H. N. Malan Zermatt Guides--Jean + Martin and A. + Lochmatter. + + 82 Sept. 1-2 W. A. Lewis Zermatt Guides--J. M. + Lochmatter and + P. Imboden. + + 83 Sept. 2 E. Dent. Zermatt Guide--A. + C. T. Dent. Burgener. + + 84 Sept. 2 J. W. Borel Zermatt Guides--A. + Pollinger and + J. J. Truffer. + + 85 Sept. 3 Ernst Calbenla Zermatt Guides--P. Bohren + and P. Müller. + + 86 Sept. 8 A. H. Simpson. Zermatt Guides--P. Knubel, + M. Cullinan. P. J. Knubel, and + P. Truffer. + + 87 Sept. 8 A. H. Burton Zermatt Guides--P. + Baumann, P. + Taugwalder, and + B. Nageli. + + 88 Sept. 9 E. Pigeon. Zermatt Guides--N. and + -- Pigeon. J. Knubel, and + F. Sarbach. + + 89 Sept. 16-17 W. Nägeli Zermatt Guides--J. and + P. Knubel. + + 1875. + 90 May 10 -- Corona ? Guides--J. A. + Carrel and J. + J. Maquignaz. + Account is + perfectly + illegible. + + 91 Aug. 2-3 L. Brioschi Zermatt Guides--F. and + A. Imseng and + P. J. + Andermatten. + + 92 Aug. 10 J. W. Hartley Zermatt Guides--P. Rubi + and J. Moser. + + 93 Aug. 10-11 F. T. Wethered Zermatt Guides--Ch. Almer + and A. Pollinger. + + 94 Aug. 11 A. Fairbanks. Zermatt Guide--J. Perrn, + W. Fairbanks. and a porter. + + 95 Aug. 12 D. L. Pickman Zermatt Guides--J. + Taugwalder and + F. Biener. + Ascent made in + one day. + + 96 Aug. 16 D. Merritt Zermatt Guides--No + information. + + 97 Aug. 16 E. Hornby Zermatt Guides--A. and + F. Pollinger. + + 98 Aug. 16 J. J. Morgan. Zermatt Guides--J. + C. L. Morgan. Imboden and J. + Sarbach. + + 99 Aug. 16 A. W. Payne Zermatt Guide--J. + Taugwalder. + + 100 Aug. 17 J. H. Pratt. Breil to Zermatt Guides--J. A. + W. Leaf. Carrel and N. + Knubel. + + 101 Aug. 19-20 F. Tendron. Zermatt Guides--F. and + G. F. Vernon. P. Sarbach and + J. Taugwalder. + + 102 Aug. 23-24 H. R. Whitehouse Zermatt Guides--P. J. + Knubel and P. + T. Truffer. + + 103 Aug. 26-27 F. Morshead. Zermatt Guides--M. + A. O. Prickard. Anderegg, Ch. + H. S. Wilson. Lauener, and J. + Moser. + + 104 Sept. 7 H. G. Gotch Zermatt Guides--Ig. and + Jos. Sarbach. + + 105 Sept. 8 R. King Zermatt Guides--J. A. + Carrel and Jos. + Coulter, and + (porter) A. + Payot. + + 106 Sept. 8 H. Loschge Breil to Zermatt Guides--J. Petrus + and A. Ranier. + + 107 Sept. 9 P. Methuen Zermatt Guides--Johann + Jaun and A. + Maurer. + + 108 Sept. 14 -- Butter Zermatt Guides--Jos. + Imboden and J. + Brantschen. + + 109 Sept. 15 W. Kittan Zermatt Guides--J. Petrus + and Franz + Burgener. + + 1876. + 110 July 22-23 A. H. Cawood. Zermatt Without guides, + J. B. Colgrove. and with two + A. Cust. porters. + + 111 July 29 J. Hazel. Zermatt Guides--P. + W. F. Loverell. Maquignaz and + F. Zuber. + + 112 July 30 Eug. Dacqué Zermatt Guides--Borren + (Bohren?) and + Platter (?). + + 113 Aug. 3-4 F. Corbett. Zermatt Guides--F. + M. Courtenay. Burgener, P. + Taugwalder + _fils_, and J. + Taugwalder. + + 114 Aug. 3-4 P. A. Singer. Zermatt Guides--J. + P. A. Singer. Imboden, Jos. + Perrn, P. + Perrn, and F. + Perrn (porter). + + 115 Aug. 6-7 D. E. Cardinal Zermatt Guides--Pierre + Carrel and + Louis Carrel. + + 116 Aug. 7 F. Reiners. Zermatt Guides--P. and + M. Haushofer. J. Knubel. + + 117 Aug. 8-9 H. de Saussure Zermatt Guides--A. + Burgener and J. + Knubel. + + 118 Aug. 8-9 W. Cooke Zermatt Guides--Louis + Carrel and + Pierre Carrel. + + 119 Aug. 8-9 J. J. Bischoff Zermatt Guides--J. Petrus, + P. T. Truffer, + and another. + + 120 Aug. 9 Joseph Seiler Zermatt Guides-- -- + Lauber and ? An + one day ascent. + + 121 Aug. 9-10 W. J. Whelpdale. Zermatt Guides--J. M. + C. Weightmann. Lochmatter, A. + Ritz, and Jos. + Brantschen as + porter. + + 122 Aug. 10 P. Watson Zermatt Guides--Alex. + Burgener and B. + Venetz. + + 123 Aug. 12 S. Waller. Zermatt Guides--J. M. + G. Fitzgerald. Lochmatter and + J. Lauber. + + 124 Aug. 12 H. Meyer. Zermatt Guides--Jos. + C. Estertag. Brantschen, P. + J. Knubel, and + Jos. Taugwalder. + + 125 Aug. 12 J. Jackson. Zermatt Guides--Christian + T. H. Kitson. and Ulrich + Almer. Ascent + in one day. + + 126 Aug. 12 Jos. Nantermod Zermatt Guides--A. + Pollinger and B. + Andenmatten. + + 127 Aug. 14 C. E. Mathews. Zermatt Guides--M. + F. Morshead. Anderegg and ? + Ascent made in + one day. + + 128 (?) -- Dent. Zermatt Guide--Alex. + Burgener. + + 129 Aug. 28-29 G. W. Prothero. Zermatt to Breil Guide--J. A. + Carrel. + + 1877. + 130 Aug. 4 O. Boenaud. Zermatt Guides--No + G. Mermod. information. + L. Mermod. + + 131 Aug. 13-14 Q. Sella. Zermatt to Breil Guides--J. A. + L. Biraghi. Carrel, -- Imseng, + J. B. Carrel, + Louis Carrel, + Jos. and + Vict. Maquignaz, + etc. etc. + + 132 Aug. 19 W. H. Grenfell. Breil Guides-- -- Imseng + J. H. A. Peebles. and ? + + 133 Aug. 20 W. Penhall Zermatt Guides--Jos. + Imboden and P. + Taugwalder + _fils_. + + 134 Aug. 24-25 G. Fitzgerald Zermatt Guides--J. M. + Lochmatter and + Joseph Lauber. + + 135 Aug. 29 J. A. Cooper Zermatt Guides--Alex and + Alois Burgener. + + 136 Aug. 30 J. D. Griffiths Zermatt Guides--Basile + Andenmatten and ? + + 137 Aug. 30 J. F. Yearsley Zermatt Guides--F. + Burgener, P. + Andenmatten, and + (porter) -- + Blumenthal. + + 138 Aug. 30-31 J. C. Leman Zermatt Guides-- -- + Pollinger and ? + + 139 Aug. 30-31 T. de Cambray Digny Zermatt to Breil Guides--J. A. + Carrel and Henri + Séraphin. + + 140 Sept. 4 J. Freitschke Zermatt Guide--Basile + Andenmatten. + + 141 Sept. 4-5 H. Loschge Zermatt to Breil Guides--Alex. + Burgener and a + Tyrol guide. + + 142 Sept. 6-7 J. Nérot Breil to Zermatt Guides--J. A. + Carrel, a + Chamounix guide, + and a porter. + + 1878. + 143 ? T. Jose Zermatt Guides--J. M. + Lochmatter, P. + Knubel, and + Pierre Truffer. + + 144 Sept. 7 Carl Hecke Zermatt Guide--Basile + Andenmatten. + + 145 Sept. 9 Jules Seiler Zermatt Guides--P. Knubel + and Basile + Andenmatten. + + 146 Sept. 21 Dr. Minnigerode Zermatt Guides--J. M. + Lochmatter and + J. Taugwalder. + + 147 Sept. 11-12 C. J. Thompson Zermatt Guides--J. A. + Carrel and -- + Imseng. + + 1879. + 148 Aug. 12-13 Dr. Lüscher. Up Breil side Guides--J. M. + Prof. Schiess. and down Zermatt Lochmatter, Jos. + side. Brantschen, and + Petryson + (Evolena). + Brantschen was + left behind in + the hut on the + "_cravate_," and + died there. + + 149 Aug. 13 W. W. R. Powell Zermatt Guides--Peter + Taugwalder + _fils_ and A. + Imseng. + + 150 Aug. 13-14 C. E. Freeman Breil to Zermatt Guides--J. A. + Carrel + and--Sopersac + (Saas). + + 151 Aug. 13-14 A. E. Craven. Zermatt Guides--P. Rubi + W. O. Moseley. and C. Inabnit. + Dr. Moseley lost + his life in + descending the + mountain. See + Appendix *D*. + + 152 Aug. 28-29 C. E. B. Watson Zermatt to Breil Guides--P. + Anderegg and A. + Imboden. + + 153 Aug. G. H. Savage Zermatt Guides--Jos. + 30-Sept. 1 Imboden and + Franz + Andermatten. Dr. + Savage slept on + the Hörnli Aug. + 30; began the + ascent by + moonlight at a + little before 2 + A.M. on Sept. 1, + reached the + summit at 6.30 + A.M., and + returned to + Zermatt by 12.30 + P.M. + + 154 Sept. 2-3 A. F. Mummery Z'Mutt side Mr. Mummery was + the first to + ascend the + Matterhorn from + the side of the + Z'Mutt Glacier. + No details have + been received. + + 155 Sept. 2-3 W. Penhall Z'Mutt side Guides--Ferdinand + Imseng and Louis + Sorbrichen. Mr. + Penhall also + made his ascent + upon the Z'Mutt + side, but took a + route more to + the south than + that followed by + Mr. Mummery. + + 156 Sept. 4-5 B. Wainewright Zermatt to Breil Guides--Jos. + Imboden and + Peter Sarbach. + + 157 Sept. 4-5 H. Hoare Zermatt Guide--J. + Anderegg and + (porter) Jos. + Chanton. + + 158 Sept. 5-6 J. Baumann Z'Mutt side Guides--Petrus + (Stalden) and + Emile Rey. Mr. + Mummery's route + was followed. + + 159 ? J. Maurer Breil to Zermatt Guides--? No + information. + +The above table is known to be imperfect, and the Author will be obliged +if correspondents will enable him to correct and extend it. Communications +should be addressed to him _Care of the Publisher_. + + + + + *G.* COURTE NOTE SUR LA GÉOLOGIE DU MATTERHORN. PAR SIGNOR F. GIORDANO, + Ingénieur en Chef des Mines d'Italie, etc. etc. + + +Le Matterhorn ou Mont Cervin est formé depuis la base jusqu'au sommet de +roches stratifiées en bancs assez réguliers, qui sont tous légèrement +rélevés vers l'Est, savoir vers le Mont Rose. Ces roches quoiqu'évidemment +d'origine sédimentaire ont une structure fortement cristalline qui doit +être l'effet d'une puissante action de métamorphisme très développée dans +cette région des Alpes. Dans la série des roches constituantes du Mont +Cervin l'on peut faire une distinction assez marquée, savoir celles +formant la base inférieure de la montagne, et celles formant le pic +proprement dit. + +Les roches de la base qu'on voit dans le Val Tournanche, dans le vallon de +Z'Mutt, au col de Théodule et ailleurs, sont en général des schistes +talqueux, serpentineux, chloriteux, et amphiboliques, alternant fort +souvent avec des schistes calcaires à noyaux quartzeux. Ces schistes +calcaires de couleur brunâtre alternent ça et là avec des dolomies, des +cargueules, et des quartzites tégulaires. Cette formation +calcaréo-serpentineuse est très étendue dans les environs. Le pic au +contraire est tout formé d'un gneiss talqueux, souvent à gros éléments, +alternant parfois à quelques bancs de schistes talqueux et quartzeux, mais +sans bancs calcaires. Vers le pied ouest du pic, le gneiss est remplacé +par de l'euphotide granitoïde massive, qui semble y former une grosse +lentille se fondant de tous côtés dans le gneiss même. Du reste, les +roches du Cervin montrent partout des exemples fort instructifs de +passages graduels d'une structure à l'autre, résultant du métamorphisme +plus ou moins avancé. + +Le pic actuel n'est que le reste d'une puissante formation géologique +ancienne, triasique peut-être, dont les couches puissantes de plus de 3500 +mètres enveloppaient tout autour comme un immense manteau le grand massif +granitoïde et feldspathique du Mont Rose. Aussi son étude détaillée, qui +par exception est rendue fort facile par la profondeur des vallons d'où il +surgit, donne la clef de la structure géologique de beaucoup d'autres +montagnes des environs. On y voit partout le phénomène assez curieux d'une +puissante formation talqueuse très cristalline, presque granitoïde, +régulièrement superposée à une formation schisteuse et calcarifère. Cette +même constitution géologique est en partie la cause de la forme aiguë et +de l'isolement du pic qui en font la merveille des voyageurs. En effet, +tandis que les roches feuilletées de la base, étant facilement corrodées +par l'action des météores et de l'eau, ont été facilement creusées en +vallées larges et profondes, la roche supérieure qui constitue la pyramide +donne lieu par sa dureté à des fendillements formant des parois escarpées +qui conservent au pic ce profil élancé, et caractéristique alpin. Les +glaciers qui entourent son pied de tous les côtés, en emportant d'une +manière continue les débris tombant de ses flancs, contribuent pour leur +part à maintenir cet isolement de la merveilleuse pyramide qui sans eux +serait peut-être déjà ensevelie sous ses propres ruines. + +REFERENCES TO THE GEOLOGICAL SECTION OF THE MATTERHORN. + + I. Gneiss talqueux quartzifère. Beaucoup de traces de foudres. + II. Banc de 3 à 4 mètres de schistes serpentineux et talqueux verts. + III. Gneiss talqueux à éléments plus ou moins schisteux, avec quelque lit + de quartzite. + " Gneiss et micaschistes ferrugineux à éléments très fins, beaucoup de + traces de foudre. + IV. Gneiss alternant avec des schistes talqueux et à des felsites en + zones blanches et grises. + V. Petite couche de schistes serpentineux, vert sombre. + VI. Gneiss et micaschiste avec zones quartzifères rubanées. + VII. Gneiss talqueux à éléments schisteux. +_VIII. Id._ _id._ verdâtre, porphyroïde à éléments moyens. + IX. Gneiss talqueux granitoïde à gros éléments et avec des cristaux de + feldspath. + X. Schistes grisâtres. + XI. Micaschistes ferrugineux. + XII. Gneiss talqueux vert sombre. +XIII. Gneiss et schistes quartzeux, couleur vert clair. + XIV. Euphotide massive (feldspath et diallage) à éléments cristallins + bien développés, traversée par des veines d'eurite blanchâtre. Cette + roche forme un banc ou plutôt une lentille de plus de 500 mètres de + puissance intercalée au gneiss talqueux.(270) + XV. Gneiss talqueux alternant avec des schistes talqueux et micacés. + XVI. Schistes compactes, couleur vert clair. +XVII. Calcaire cristallin micacé (calcschiste) avec veines et rognons de + quartz. Il alterne avec des schistes verts chloriteux et + serpentineux. +XVIII. Schistes verts chloriteux, serpentineux et talqueux, avec des + masses stéatiteuses. + XIX. Calcschistes (comme ci-dessus) formant un banc de plus de 100 + mètres.(271) + XX. Schistes verts chloriteux. + XXI. Calcschistes (comme ci-dessus). +XXII. Il suit ci-dessous une série fort puissante de schistes verts + serpentineux, chloriteux, talqueux et stéatiteux alternant encore + avec des calcschistes. En plusieurs localités les schistes + deviennent très amphiboliques à petits cristaux noirs. Cette + puissante formation calcaréo-serpentineuse repose inférieurement sur + des micaschistes et des gneiss anciens. + + [Illustration: GEOLOGICAL SECTION OF THE MATTERHORN. (MONT CERVIN) + BY SIGNOR F. GIORDANO.] + + + + + *H.* PROFESSOR TYNDALL AND THE MATTERHORN. + + +In the second edition of Tyndall's _Hours of Exercise in the Alps_ the +Professor made some additional remarks upon his defeat in 1862, and to +these remarks I replied in No. 35 of the _Alpine Journal_. I do not feel +that the additional information afforded in these publications possesses +the least interest to the majority of my readers, and therefore I do not +reprint it; and I refer to it only for the sake of those who may be +desirous to pursue the subject. + + [Illustration: "The things which tumble about the ears of unwary + travellers"] + + + + + LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING + CROSS. + + + + + THE MATTERHORN AND ITS GLACIERS + + + [Map: The Matterhorn and its glaciers] + + + + + THE VALLEY OF ZERMATT + + + [Map: The Valley of Zermatt; and the Central Pennine Alps] + + + + + + FOOTNOTES + + + 1 In the lower diagram the tins are shown as they appear when packed + for travelling. I generally carry them at the top of a knapsack, + outside. + + 2 I extract from No. 63 of the _Alpine Journal_ the following note by + Gustav de Veh, a retired Russian officer, upon the prevention of + snow-blindness. "We were on the march home along the mountain + plains, when, dazzled by the intense sun-rays reflected by the + endless snow-fields we were marching along, my eyelids lost all + power to open; I felt my elbow touched, and, looking through my + fingers, I beheld one of our friendly highlanders preparing a kind + of black paste by mixing gunpowder with snow. The General told me to + let him do what he wanted. The Circassian applied the black stuff + under my eyes, on my cheeks, and to the sides of my nose. To my + astonishment I could then open my eyes, and felt no more difficulty + to see plainly and clearly everything. I have tried that experiment + many times since, and it never failed to relieve me, although I used + common Indian-ink and black water-colour, instead of the + above-mentioned paste." + + 3 I understand that scarcely any nails wore found in the boots of Dr. + Moseley, who lost his life recently on the Matterhorn, and this fact + sufficiently accounts for the accident. + + 4 The author of _Travels in Alaska_. + + 5 The Riffel hotel (the starting-point for the ascent of Monte Rosa), + a deservedly popular inn, leased to Monsieur Seiler, the hotel + proprietor of Zermatt, is placed at a height of 3100 feet above that + village (8400 above the sea), and commands a superb panoramic view. + The house has continually grown, and it can now accommodate a large + number of persons. In 1879, it was connected by telegraph with the + rest of Switzerland. + + 6 The highest of the Mischabelhörner. + + 7 The temperature at the St. Bernard in the winter is frequently 40° + Fahr. below freezing-point. January is their coldest month. See + Dollfus-Ausset's _Matériaux pour l'étude des Glaciers_, vols. vi. + and vii. + + 8 There was not a pass between Prerayen and Breil. See note to p. 105. + + 9 This pass is called usually the Va Cornère. It is also known as the + Gra Cornère; which is, I believe, patois for Grand Cornier. It is + mentioned in the first volume of the second series of _Peaks, + Passes, and Glaciers_, and in Chapters V. and XVIII. of this volume. + + 10 I had been sent to the Val Louise to illustrate this ascent. + + 11 Since that time a decent house has been built on the summit of this + pass. The old vaulted hospice was erected for the benefit of the + pilgrims who formerly crossed the pass _en route_ for Rome.--Joanne's + _Itinéraire du Dauphiné_. + + 12 See the Map in Chap. VIII. + + 13 The depth of the valleys is so great that the sun not only is not + seen for more than a few hours per day during the greatest portion + of the year, but in some places--at Villard d'Arène and at Andrieux + for example--it is not seen at all for one hundred days.--Lodoucette's + _Hautes-Alpes_, p. 599. + + 14 Sometimes called the Aiguille du Midi de la Grave, or the Aiguille + de la Medje. + + 15 The maps of the Dauphiné Alps to Ball's _Guide to the Western Alps_, + and to Joanne's _Itinéraire du Dauphiné_, must be excepted. These + maps are, however, on too small a scale for travelling purposes. + + 16 "Faits pour servir à l'Histoire des Montagnes de l'Oisans," by Elie + de Beaumont, in the _Annales des Mines_. + + _Norway and its Glaciers; followed by Excursions in the High Alps of + Dauphiné._ By J. D. Forbes. + + The following works also treat more or less of the districts + referred to in this chapter:-- + + _ Outline Sketches in the High Alps of Dauphiné_, by T. G. + Bonney. + _ Histoire des Hautes-Alpes_, by J. C. F. Ladoucette. + _ Itinéraire du Dauphiné_, by Adolphe Joanne (2nd part). + _ Tour du Monde, 1860_, edited by Ed. Charton. + _ The Israel of the Alps_, by Alexis Muston. + _ A Memoir of Felix Neff_, by W. S. Gilly. + + Good pictures of Dauphiné scenery are to be found in _Voyages + Pittoresques dans l'ancienne France_, by Ch. Nodier, J. Taylor, and + A. de Cailleux, and in Lord Monson's _Views in the Departments of + the Isère and the High Alps_. + + 17 M. Puiseux took for guide a man named Pierre Bornéoud, of Claux in + the Val Louise; who had accompanied Captain Durand in 1828. In 1861, + the expedition of M. Puiseux was quite forgotten in the Val Louise. + I am indebted to M. Puiseux for the above and other details. + + 18 This is a common saying in Dauphiné. It means that there is usually + less snow on the mountains during these days than at any other time + of the year. The natives have an almost childish dread of venturing + upon snow or glaciers, and hence the period of minimum snow seems to + them to be the most favourable time for excursions. + + 19 See Chapter VII. + + 20 Monte Viso is not seen from the Lautaret Road. That this is so is + seen when one crosses the Col du Galibier, on the south side of + which pass the Monte Viso is visible for a short time. + + 21 It became a regular business. "We find amongst the current accounts + of the Bailiff of Embrun this singular article--'_Item, for + persecuting the Vaudois, eight sols and thirty deniers of + gold._'"--Muston, vol. i. p. 38. + + 22 On the 22d of May 1393, eighty persons of the valleys of + Freissinières and Argentière, and one hundred and fifty persons of + the Val Louise, were burnt at Embrun.--Muston, vol. i. p. 41. + + 23 See Morland's _History of the Evangelical Churches of Piedmont_, + 1658; Cromwell's _Acts_, 1658; and Burton's _Diary_, 1828. + + 24 The commune of the Val Louise contains at the present time about + 3400 inhabitants. This crétin population has been aptly described by + M. Elisée Reclus in the _Tour du Monde_, 1860. He says:--"They attain + the highest possible development of their intelligence in their + infancy, and--abundantly provided with majestic goîtres, which are + lengthened and swollen by age--are in this respect like to the + ourangoutangs, who have nothing more to acquire after the age of + three years. At the age of five years the little crétins have + already the placid and mature expression which they ought to keep + all their lives.... They wear trousers, and coats with tails, and a + large black hat." + + 25 "The nucleus of the 'massif' is a line protogine, divided by nearly + vertical cracks."--_Dollfus-Ausset._ + + 26 J. G. Whittier, "Snow-Bound." + + 27 M. Puiseux, on his expedition of 1848, was surprised, when at + breakfast on the side of the mountain, by a mass of rock of more + than a cubic yard falling like a bomb at his side, which threw up + splinters in all directions. + + 28 This mountain is the culminating point of the group, and is named on + the French map, Pointe des Ecrins. It is seen from the Val + Christophe, and from that direction its ridges completely conceal + Mont Pelvoux. On the other side--that is, from the direction of La + Bessée or the Val Louise--the reverse is the case: the Pelvoux + completely conceals it. + + Unaware that this name was going to be applied to it, we gave the + name Pic des Arcines or des Ecrins to our summit, in accordance with + the traditions of the natives. + + 29 There are three cols or passes close to Monte Viso on its northern + side, which lead from the valley of the Po into that of the Guil. + The deep notch spoken of above is the nearest to the mountain, and + although it is by far the lowest gap in that part of the chain, and + would seem to be the true Col Viso, it does not appear to be used as + a pass. The second, which I crossed in 1860, has the name Col del + Color del Porco given to it upon the Sardinian map! The third is the + Col de la Traversette; and this, although higher than at least one + of those mentioned above, is that which is used by the natives who + pass from one valley to the other. + + 30 See Ladoucette's _Hautes-Alpes_, p. 596. + + 31 Frequently spelt Breuil. + + 32 See the Map of the Matterhorn and its Glaciers. + + 33 There were no guides, properly speaking, in this valley at that + time, with the exception of one or two Pessions and Pelissiers. + + 34 This face is that on the right hand of the large engraving opposite + p. 46. It is also represented, more prominently, in the engraving + facing p. 227. + + 35 Mr. Hawkins was unaware that any attempts had been made before his + own, and spoke of it as the first. + +_ 36 Macmillan_, 1861. + + 37 This ridge is seen on the left of the large engraving accompanying + this chapter; and if the reader consults this view, the explanatory + outlines, and the maps, he will be able to form a fair idea of the + points which were attained on this and on the subsequent attempts. + + 38 Since this time the small peak has received the name Tête du Lion. + The gap is now called the Col du Lion; the glacier at its base, the + Glacier du Lion; and the gully which connects the Col with the + glacier, the Couloir du Lion. + + 39 By the kindness of its owner, Mr. F. Tuckett. + + 40 See Appendix A. + + 41 A view of this place faces p. 76. + + 42 The guide Bennen must be excepted. + + 43 The engraving is made after a sketch taken from the rocks of the + Matterhorn just above the Col. + + 44 J. G. Whittier. + + 45 Mr. Hawkins referred to this place as one of excessive difficulty. + He, however, found it coated with ice; we found it free from ice. + + 46 I learned afterwards from Jean-Antoine Carrel that they got + considerably higher than upon their previous attempts, and about 250 + or 300 feet higher than Professor Tyndall in 1860. In 1862 I saw the + initials of J. A. Carrel cut on the rocks at the place where he and + his comrade had turned back. + + 47 This man proved to be both willing and useful on lower ground, and + voluntarily accompanied me a considerable distance out of his way, + without fee or reward. + +_ 48 Alpine Journal_, 1863, p. 82. + + 49 See p. 49. + +_ 50 Mountaineering in 1861_, pp. 86-7. Tyndall and Bennen were mistaken + in supposing that the mountain has two summits; it has only one. + They seem to have been deceived by the appearance of that part of + the south-west ridge which is called "the shoulder" (l'épaule), as + seen from Breil. Viewed from that place, its southern end has + certainly, through foreshortening, the semblance of a peak; but when + one regards it from the Col Théodule, or from any place in the same + direction, the delusion is at once apparent. + + 51 The late Principal Forbes was similarly situated while crossing the + same pass in 1842. He described the sounds as rustling, fizzing, and + hissing. See his _Travels in the Alps of Savoy_, second ed., p. 323. + Mr. R. Spence Watson experienced the same upon the upper part of the + Aletsch glacier in July 1863, and he spoke of the sounds as singing + or hissing. See the _Athenæum_, Sept. 12, 1863. The respective + parties seem to have been highly electrified on each occasion. + Forbes says that his fingers "yielded a fizzing sound;" and Watson + says that his "hair stood on end in an uncomfortable but very + amusing manner," and that "the veil on the wide-awake of one of the + party stood upright in the air!" + + 52 I have described this tent at length, as frequent application has + been made to me for information on the subject. I would strongly + recommend any person who wishes to have one for long-continued use, + to have one made under his own eye, and to be particularly careful + to test the poles. My experience goes to show that poles which (when + supported upon their extremities) will bear a dead weight of 100 + lbs. suspended from their centres, will stand any wind to which they + are likely to be submitted. Ash is, perhaps, the best wood that can + be selected. Tents of this pattern have been used, amongst others, + by Messrs. Freshfield, Moore, and Tucker, in the Caucasus; by the + Rev. W. H. Hawker in Corsica; and by myself in Greenland. + + 53 The heights given on the outlines of the Matterhorn accompanying + Chap. III., on the geological section in the Appendix, and quoted + throughout the book, are after the barometric (mercurial) + measurements of Signor F. Giordano in 1866 and 1868. I have ventured + to differ from him only in regard to the height of the second + tent-platform, and have assigned to it a somewhat lower elevation + than his estimate. + + 54 During this time making the ascent of Monte Rosa. + + 55 They were not guides by profession. + + 56 Those which I collected were as follow:--_Myosotis alpestris_, Gm.; + _Veronica alpina_, L.; _Linaria alpina_, M.; _Gentiana Bavarica_, + L.; _Thlaspi rotundifolium_, Gaud.; _Silene acaulis_, L. (?); + _Potentilla_ sp.; _Saxifraga_ sp.; _Saxifraga muscoides_, Wulf. I am + indebted for these names to Mr. William Carruthers of the British + Museum. These plants ranged from about 10,500 to a little below + 13,000 feet, and are the highest which I have seen anywhere in the + Alps. Several times this number of species might be collected, I + have no doubt, within these limits. I was not endeavouring to make a + _flora_ of the Matterhorn, but to obtain those plants which attained + the greatest height. Very few lichens are seen on the higher parts + of this mountain; their rarity is due, doubtless, to the constant + disintegration of the rocks, and the consequent exposure of fresh + surfaces. _Silene acaulis_ was the highest plant found by De + Saussure on his travels in the Alps. He mentions (§ 2018) that he + found a tuft "near the place where I slept on my return (from the + ascent of Mont Blanc), about 1780 toises (11,388 feet) above the + level of the sea." + + Mr. William Mathews and Mr. Charles Packe, who have botanised + respectively for many years in the Alps and Pyrenees, have favoured + me with the names of the highest plants that they have obtained upon + their excursions. Their lists, although not extensive, are + interesting as showing the extreme limits attained by some of the + hardiest of Alpine plants. Those mentioned by Mr. Mathews + are--_Campanula renisia_ (on the Grivola, 12,047 feet); _Saxifraga + bryoides_ and _Androsace glacialis_ (on the summits of Mont Emilius, + 11,677, and the Ruitor, 11,480); _Ranunculus glacialis_, _Armeria + alpina_, and _Pyrethrum alpinum_ (on Monte Viso, from 10,000 to + 10,500 feet); _Thlaspi rotundifolium_ and _Saxifraga biflora_ (Monte + Viso, about 9500 feet); and _Campanula rotundifolia_ (?), _Artemisia + spicata_ (Wulf.), _Aronicum Doronicum_, and _Petrocallis Pyrenaica_ + (Col de Seylières, 9247). + + Mr. Packe obtained, on or close to the summit of the Pic de + Mulhahacen, Sierra Nevada, of Granada (11,600 to 11,700 feet), + _Papaver alpinum_ (var. _Pyrenaicum_), _Artemisia Nevadensis_ (used + for giving the flavour to the Manzanilla sherry), _Viola + Nevadensis_, _Galium Pyrenaicum_, _Trisetum glaciale_, _Festuca + Clementei_, _Saxifraga Groenlandica_ (var. _Mista_), _Erigeron + alpinum_ (var. _glaciale_), and _Arenaria tetraquetra_. On the + Picacho de Veleta (11,440 feet), and on the Alcazaba (11,350), the + same plants were obtained, with the exception of the first named. At + a height of 11,150 feet on these mountains he also collected + _Ptilotrichum purpureum_, _Lepidium stylatum_, and _Biscutella + saxatilis_; and, at 10,000 feet, _Alyssum spicatum_ and _Sideritis + scordiodes_. Mr. Packe mentions the following plants as occurring at + 9000 to 10,000 feet in the Pyrenees:--_Cerastium latifolium_, _Draba + Wahlenbergii_, _Hutchinsia alpina_, _Linaria alpina_, _Oxyria + reniformis_, _Ranunculus glacialis_, _Saxifraga nervosa_, _S. + oppositifolia_, _S. Groenlandica_, _Statice Armeria_, _Veronica + alpina_. + + Information on the botany of the Val Tournanche is contained in the + little pamphlet by the late Canon G. Carrel, entitled _La Vallée de + Valtornenche en 1867_; and a list of the plants which have hitherto + been collected on the glacier-surrounded ridge (Furgen Grat) + connecting the Matterhorn with the Col Théodule, will be found in + Dollfus-Ausset's _Matériaux pour l'étude des Glaciers_, vol. viii. + part first, 1868. In the _Jahrbuch_ for 1873 of the Swiss Alpine + Club it is stated that on an ascent of the Finsteraarhorn (14,106 + feet) the following were collected within the last 1000 + feet:--_Saxifraga bryoides_, _S. Muscoides_, _Achillea atrata_, and + _Ranunculus glacialis_. + + 57 I have already had occasion to mention the rapid changes which occur + in the weather at considerable elevations in the Alps, and shall + have to do so again in subsequent chapters. No one can regret more + than myself the variable weather which afflicts that otherwise + delightful chain of mountains, or the necessity of speaking about + it: its summits appear to enjoy more than their fair share of wind + and tempests. Meteorological disturbances, some would say, are by no + means necessary accompaniments of high regions. There are some happy + places which are said to be favoured with almost perpetual calm. + Take the case of the Sierra Nevada of California, for example, which + includes numerous summits from 13,000 to 15,000 feet. Mr. Whitney, + of San Francisco, says (in his _Guide-book to the Yosemite Valley, + and the adjacent region_), "At high altitudes, all through the + mountains, the weather during the summer is almost always the finest + possible for travelling. There are occasional storms in the high + mountains; but, in ordinary seasons, these are quite rare, and one + of the greatest drawbacks to the pleasure of travelling in the Alps, + the uncertainty of the weather, is here almost entirely wanting." It + is probable that a more thorough acquaintance with that region will + modify this opinion; for it must be admitted that it is very + difficult to judge of the state of the atmosphere at great heights + from the valleys, and it often occurs that a terrific storm is + raging above when there is a dead calm below, at a distance perhaps + of not more than three or four miles. A case of this kind is + described in Chapter VI., and another may be mentioned here. At the + very time that I was regarding the Dent Blanche from a height of + 12,550 feet on the Matterhorn, Mr. T. S. Kennedy was engaged in + making the first ascent of the former mountain. He described his + ascent in a very picturesque paper in the _Alpine Journal_ (1863), + and I learn from it that he experienced severe weather. "The wind + roared over our ridge, making fearfully wild music among the + desolate crags.... It rendered an ordinary voice inaudible," and + "nothing at a distance greater than fifty yards could be seen at + all.... Thick mists and driving clouds of snow swept over and past + us;" the thermometer fell to 20° Fahr., and his companion's hair + became a mass of white icicles. Now, at this time, Mr. Kennedy was + distant from me only four and a half miles. With me, and in my + immediate neighbourhood, the air was perfectly calm, and the + temperature was agreeably warm; even during the night it fell only + two or three degrees below freezing-point. During most of the day + the Dent Blanche was perfectly unclouded, though, for a time, light + fleecy clouds were hovering about its upper 2000 feet. Still no one + would have supposed from appearances that my friend was experiencing + a storm such as he has described. + + 58 See the engraving "Crags of the Matterhorn," facing p. 120. + + 59 A remarkable streak of snow (marked "cravate" in the outline of the + Matterhorn, as seen from the Théodule) runs across the cliff at this + part of the mountain. My highest point was somewhat higher than the + lowest part of this snow, and was consequently about 13,400 feet + above the sea. + + 60 I received much attention from a kind English lady who was staying + in the inn. + + 61 As it seldom happens that one survives such a fall, it may be + interesting to record what my sensations were during its occurrence. + I was perfectly conscious of what was happening, and felt each blow; + but, like a patient under chloroform, experienced no pain. Each blow + was, naturally, more severe than that which preceded it, and I + distinctly remember thinking, "Well, if the next is harder still, + that will be the end!" Like persons who have been rescued from + drowning, I remember that the recollection of a multitude of things + rushed through my head, many of them trivialities or absurdities, + which had been forgotten long before; and, more remarkable, this + bounding through space did not feel disagreeable. But I think that + in no very great distance more, consciousness as well as sensation + would have been lost, and upon that I base my belief, improbable as + it seems, that death by a fall from a great height is as painless an + end as can be experienced. + + The battering was very rough, yet no bones were broken. The most + severe cuts were one of four inches long on the top of the head, and + another of three inches on the right temple: this latter bled + frightfully. There was a formidable-looking cut, of about the same + size as the last, on the palm of the left hand, and every limb was + grazed, or cut, more or less seriously. The tips of the ears were + taken off, and a sharp rock cut a circular bit out of the side of + the left boot, sock, and ankle, at one stroke. The loss of blood, + although so great, did not seem to be permanently injurious. The + only serious effect has been the reduction of a naturally retentive + memory to a very common-place one; and although my recollections of + more distant occurrences remain unshaken, the events of that + particular day would be clean gone but for the few notes which were + written down before the accident. + + 62 An incident like this goes far to make one look favourably upon the + _règlements_ of Chamounix and other places. This could not have + occurred at Chamounix, nor here, if there had been a _bureau des + guides_. + + 63 This appeared to be the most difficult part of the mountain. One was + driven to keep to the edge of the ridge, or very near to it; and at + the point where we turned back (which was almost as high as the + _highest_ part of the "cravate," and perhaps 100 feet higher than my + scramble on the 19th) there were smooth walls seven or eight feet + high in every direction, which were impassable to a single man, and + which could only be surmounted by the assistance of ladders, or by + using one's comrades as ladders. + + 64 See Appendix H. + + 65 Professor Tyndall describes this incident in the following + words:--"We had gathered up our traps, and bent to the work before + us, when suddenly an explosion occurred overhead. We looked aloft + and saw in mid-air a solid shot from the Matterhorn describing its + proper parabola, and finally splitting into fragments as it smote + one of the rocky towers in front. Down the shattered fragments came + like a kind of spray, slightly wide of us, but still near enough to + compel a sharp look-out. Two or three such explosions occurred, but + we chose the back fin of the mountain for our track, and from this + the falling stones were speedily deflected right or left."--_Saturday + Review_, Aug. 8, 1863. Reprinted in _Macmillan's Magazine_, April, + 1869. + +_ 66 Saturday Review_, August 8, 1863. + + 67 The pinnacle, in fact, had a name,--"L'ange Anbé." + +_ 68 Saturday Review_, 1863, and _Macmillan's Magazine_, 1869. + + 69 I have entered into this matter because much surprise has been + expressed that Carrel was able to pass this place without any great + difficulty in 1865, which turned back so strong a party in 1862. The + cause of Professor Tyndall's defeat was simply that his second guide + (Walter) did not give aid to Bennen when it was required, and that + the Carrels _would not act as guides after having been hired as + porters_. J.-A. Carrel not only knew of the existence of this place + before they came to it, but always believed in the possibility of + passing it, and of ascending the mountain; and had he been leader to + the party, I do not doubt that he might have taken Tyndall to the + top. But when appealed to to assist Bennen (a Swiss, and the + recognised leader of the party), was it likely that he (an Italian, + a porter), who intended to be the first man up the mountain by a + route which he regarded peculiarly his own, would render any aid? + + It is not so easy to understand how Dr. Tyndall and Bennen + overlooked the existence of this cleft, for it is seen over several + points of the compass, and particularly well from the southern side + of the Théodule pass. Still more difficult is it to explain how the + Professor came to consider that he was only a stone's-throw from the + summit; for, when he got to the end of "the shoulder," he must have + been perfectly aware that the whole height of the final peak was + still above him. + + 70 Dr. Tyndall ascended the Matterhorn in 1868. See Appendix *F*. + + 71 Information upon the Val Tournanche will be found in De Saussure's + _Voyages dans les Alpes_, vol. iv. pp. 379-81, 406-9; in Canon + Carrel's pamphlet, _La Vallée de Valtornenche en 1867_; and in + King's _Italian Valleys of the Alps_, pp. 220-1. + + 72 I shall speak again of this mountain, and therefore pass it over for + the present. + + 73 See the Map of the Matterhorn and its Glaciers. + + 74 My attention was directed to this note by Mr. A. Adams-Reilly. + + 75 The summit of the Théodule pass is 10,899 feet above the sea. It is + estimated that of late about a thousand tourists have crossed it per + annum. In the winter, when the crevasses are bridged over and + partially filled up, and the weather is favourable, cows and sheep + pass over it from Zermatt to Val Tournanche, and _vice versa_. + + In the _middle of August, 1792_, De Saussure appears to have taken + mules from Breil, over the Val Tournanche glacier to the summit of + the Théodule; and on a previous journey he did the same, also in the + middle of August. He distinctly mentions (§ 2220) that the glacier + was completely covered with snow, and that _no_ crevasses were open. + I do not think mules could have been taken over the same spot in any + August during the past twenty years without great difficulty. In + that month the glacier is usually very bare of snow, and many + crevasses are open. They are easily enough avoided by those on foot, + but would prove very troublesome to mules. + + A few days before we crossed the Breuiljoch in 1863, Mr. F. Morshead + made a parallel pass to it. He crossed the ridge on the _western_ + side of the little peak, and followed a somewhat more difficult + route than ours. In 1865 I wanted to use Mr. Morshead's pass (see p. + 235), but found that it was not possible to descend the Zermatt + side; for, during the two years which had elapsed, the glacier had + shrunk so much that it was completely severed from the summit of the + pass, and we could not get down the rocks that were exposed. + + 76 Although the admirable situation of Zermatt has been known for, at + least, forty years, it is only within the last twenty or so that it + has become an approved Alpine centre. Thirty years ago the Théodule + pass, the Weissthor, and the Col d'Hérens, were, I believe, the only + routes ever taken from Zermatt across the Pennine Alps. At the + present time there are (inclusive of these passes and of the valley + road) no less than twenty-six different ways in which a tourist may + go from Zermatt. The summits of some of these cols are more than + 14,000 feet above the level of the sea, and a good many of them + cannot be recommended, either for ease, or as offering the shortest + way from Zermatt to the valleys and villages to which they lead. + + Zermatt itself is still only a village with 600 inhabitants (about + forty of whom are guides), with picturesque châlet dwellings, black + with age. The hotels, including the new inn on the Riffelberg, + mostly belong to M. Alexandre Seiler, to whom the village and valley + are very much indebted for their prosperity, and who is the best + person to consult for information, or in all cases of difficulty. + + 77 "Un des faits les mieux constatés est que l'érosion des glaciers se + distingue de celle des eaux en ce que la première produit des roches + convexes ou moutonnées, tandis que la seconde donne lieu à des + concavités."--Prof. B. Studer, _Origine des Lacs Suisses_. + + 78 Professor Ruskin's view of "the Cervin from the north-west" (_Modern + Painters_, vol. iv.) is taken from the Stockje. The Col du Lion is a + little depression on the ridge, close to the margin of the + engraving, on the right-hand side; the third tent-platform was + formed at the foot of the perpendicular cliff, on the ridge, exactly + one-third way between the Col du Lion and the summit. The + battlemented portion of the ridge, a little higher up, is called the + "_crête du coq_"; and the nearly horizontal portion of the ridge + above it is "the shoulder." + + 79 On p. 7 it is stated that there was not a pass from Prerayen to + Breil in 1860, and this is correct. On July 8, 1868, my enterprising + guide, Jean-Antoine Carrel, started from Breil at 2 A.M. with a + well-known comrade--J. Baptiste Bich, of Val Tournanche--to endeavour + to make one. They went towards the glacier which descends from the + Dent d'Erin to the south-east, and, on arriving at its base, + ascended at first by some snow between it and the cliffs on its + south, and afterwards took to the cliffs themselves. [This glacier + they called the glacier of Mont Albert, after the local name of the + peak which on Mr. Reilly's map of the Valpelline is called "Les + Jumeaux." On Mr. Reilly's map the glacier is called "Glacier + d'Erin."] They ascended the rocks to a considerable height, and then + struck across the glacier, towards the north, to a small "_rognon_" + (isolated patch of rocks) that is nearly in the centre of the + glacier. They passed above this, and between it and the great + _séracs_. Afterwards their route led them towards the Dent d'Erin, + and they arrived at the base of its final peak by mounting a + _couloir_ (gully filled with snow), and the rocks at the head of the + glacier. They gained the summit of their pass at 1 P.M., and, + descending by the glacier of Zardesan, arrived at Prerayen at 6.30 + P.M. + + As their route joins that taken by Messrs. Hall, Grove, and + Macdonald, on their ascent of the Dent d'Erin in 1863, it is evident + that that mountain can be ascended from Breil. Carrel considers that + the route taken by himself and his comrade Bich can be improved + upon; and, if so, it is possible that the ascent of the Dent d'Erin + can be made from Breil in less time than from Prerayen. Breil is + very much to be preferred as a starting-point. + + 80 See p. 8. The height of this pass, according to the late Canon + Carrel, is 10,335 feet. A portrait of this enthusiastic and worthy + mountaineer is given upon p. 109. + + 81 A brief account of this excursion was published in the _Athenæum_, + August 29, 1863. + + 82 This incident occurred close to the place represented in the + engraving facing p. 78. The new, dry snow was very troublesome, and + poured down like flour into the steps which were cut across the + slopes. The front man accordingly moved ahead as far as possible, + and anchored himself to rocks. A rope was sent across to him, was + fixed at each end, and was held as a rail by the others as they + crossed. We did not trust to this rope alone, but were also tied in + the usual manner. The second rope was employed as an additional + security against slips. + + 83 "There is, therefore, little hope of thus arriving at anything + decisive as to the exact part which echoes take in the production of + the rolling sound of thunder." P. 165, English ed., translated by + Col. Sabine: Longmans, 1855. + + 84 The same has seemed to me to be the case at all times when I have + been close to the points of explosion. There has been always a + distinct interval between the first explosion and the rolling sounds + and secondary explosions which I have _believed_ to be merely + echoes; but it has never been possible (except in the + above-mentioned case) to _identify_ them as such. + + Others have observed the same. "The geologist, Professor Theobald, + of Chur, who was in the Solferino storm, between the Tschiertscher + and Urden Alp, in the electric clouds, says that the peals were + short, like cannon shots, but of a clearer, more cracking tone, and + that the rolling of the thunder was only heard farther on." + Berlepsch's _Alps_, English ed., p. 133. + + 85 Mr. J. Glaisher has frequently pointed out that all sounds in + balloons at some distance from the earth are notable for their + brevity. "It is one sound only; _there is no reverberation, no + reflection_; and this is characteristic of all sounds in the + balloon, one clear sound, continuing during its own vibrations, then + gone in a moment."--_Good Words_, 1863, p. 224. + + I learn from Mr. Glaisher that the thunder-claps which have been + heard by him during his "travels in the air" have been no exception + to the general rule, and the absence of rolling has fortified his + belief that the rolling sounds which accompany thunder are echoes, + and echoes _only_. + + 86 See Appendix B for the experiences of Mr. R. B. Heathcote during a + thunderstorm on the Matterhorn in 1869. + + 87 Since then (on at least one occasion), several persons have found + themselves in this predicament for five or six consecutive days! + + 88 I am speaking exclusively of the disturbances which occur in the + day-time during fine weather. + + 89 The rocks are sometimes so hot that they are almost painful to + touch. + + 90 The mists are extremely deceptive to those who are on the mountain + itself. Sometimes they _seem_ to be created at a _considerable + distance_, as if the whole of the atmosphere of the neighbourhood + was undergoing a change, when in reality they are being formed in + immediate proximity to the mountain. + + 91 Croz was born at the Village du Tour, in the valley of Chamounix, on + April 22, 1830; Almer was a year or two older. + + 92 The Pointe des Ecrins is also seen from the top of the Col de + Valloires, rising above the Col du Galibier. This is the lowest + elevation from which I have seen the actual summit of the Ecrins. + + 93 It should be observed that these mountains were included in the + territory recently ceded to France. The Sardinian map above referred + to was the old official map. The French survey alluded to afterwards + is the survey in continuation of the great French official map. + Sheet No. 179 includes the Aiguilles d'Arve. + + 94 Whilst stopping in the hospice on the Col de Lautaret, in 1869, I + was accosted by a middle-aged peasant, who asked if I would ride + (for a consideration) in his cart towards Briançon. He was + inquisitive as to my knowledge of his district, and at last asked, + "Have you been at La Sausse?" "Yes." "Well, then, I tell you, _you + saw there some of the first people in the world_." "Yes," I said, + "they were primitive, certainly." But he was serious, and went + on--"Yes, real brave people;" and, slapping his knee to give + emphasis, "_but that they are first-rate for minding the cows!_" + + After this he became communicative. "You thought, probably," said + he, "when I offered to take you down, that I was some poor ----, not + worth a _sou_; but I will tell you, that was my mountain! _my_ + mountain! that you saw at La Sausse; they were _my_ cows! a hundred + of them altogether." "Why, you are rich." "Passably rich. I have + another mountain on the Col du Galibier, and another at Villeneuve." + He (although a common peasant in outward appearance) confessed to + being worth four thousand pounds. + + 95 We had seen a tracing from the unpublished sheets of the French + Government Survey. + + 96 The bracketed paragraphs in Chaps. VII. VIII. and IX. are extracted + from the Journal of Mr. A. W. Moore. + + It would be uninteresting and unprofitable to enter into a + discussion of the confusion of these names at greater length. It is + sufficient to say that they were confounded in a most perplexing + manner by all the authorities we were able to consult, and also by + the natives on the spot. + + 97 A great part of this morning's route led over shales, which were + loose and troublesome, and were probably a continuation of the + well-known beds of the Col du Galibier and the Col de Lautaret. + + 98 The ridge called La Meije runs from E.S.E. to W.N.W., and is crowned + by numerous aiguilles of tolerably equal elevation. The two highest + are towards the eastern and western ends of the ridge, and are + rather more than a mile apart. To the former the French surveyors + assign a height of 12,730, and to the latter 13,080 feet. In our + opinion the western aiguille can hardly be more than 200 feet higher + than the eastern one. It is possible that its height may have + diminished since it was measured. + + In 1869 I carefully examined the eastern end of the ridge from the + top of the Col de Lautaret, and saw that the summit at that end can + be ascended by following a long glacier which descends from it + towards the N.E. into the Valley of Arsine. The highest summit + presents considerable difficulties. + + Sheet 189 of the French map is extremely inaccurate in the + neighbourhood of the Meije, and particularly so on its northern + side. The ridges and glaciers which are laid down upon it can + scarcely be identified on the spot. + + 99 The justness of the observation will be felt by those who knew La + Grave in or before 1864. At that time the horses of the couriers who + were passing from Grenoble to Briançon, and _vice versa_, were + lodged immediately underneath the salle-à-manger and bedrooms, and a + pungent, steamy odour rose from them through the cracks in the + floor, and constantly pervaded the whole house. I am told that the + inn has been considerably improved since 1864. + + 100 Our route from La Grave to La Bérarde will be seen on the + accompanying map. + + 101 Taking one kind of work with another, a thousand feet of height per + hour is about as much as is usually accomplished on great Alpine + ascents. + + 102 Fig. 2 represents in a similar manner the distance and elevation of + the Matterhorn from and above Zermatt. See p. 45. + + 103 The drawing was inadvertently made the right way on the wood, and + the view is now _reversed_ in consequence. + + 104 This wall may be described as an exaggerated Gemmi, as seen from + Leukerbad. From the highest summit of La Meije right down to the + Glacier des Etançons (a depth of about 3200 feet), the cliff is all + but perpendicular, and appears to be completely unassailable. It is + the most imposing thing of its kind that I have seen. + + 105 Since this chapter was first printed, the whole of the Aiguilles + d'Arve have been ascended, and also the highest point of the Meije. + For information upon these ascents the reader is referred to the + pages of the _Alpine Journal_. + +_ 106 Alpine Journal_, December 1863. + + 107 There are more than twenty peaks exceeding 12,000 feet, and thirty + others exceeding 11,000 feet, within the district bounded by the + rivers Romanche, Drac, and Durance. + +_ 108 Alpine Journal_, Dec. 1863. + +_ 109 Alpine Journal_, June 1863. + + 110 The above view of the Ecrins was taken from the summit of the Col du + Galibier. + + 111 The most striking example which has come under my notice is referred + to in Chapter XIX. + + 112 See vol. i., p. 73 of _Alpine Journal_. We considered the height + assigned to the final peak by Mr. Bonney was too small, and thought + it should have been 200 feet more. + + 113 The Glacier Blanc is in the direction indicated by the arrow below + the letter *E* on the outline on p. 156. + + 114 The ascent of the Pointe des Ecrins has been made several times + since 1864. The second ascent was made by a French gentleman, named + Vincent, with the Chamounix guides Jean Carrier and Alexandre + Tournier. They followed our route, but reversed it; that is to say, + ascended by the western and descended by the eastern arête. + + The best course to adopt in future attacks on the mountain, would be + to bring a ladder, or some other means of passing the bergschrund, + in its centre, immediately under the summit. One could then proceed + directly upwards, and so avoid the labour and difficulties which are + inevitable upon any ascent by way of the arêtes. + + 115 For route, see Map in Chap. VIII. + + 116 For route, see Map in Chap. VIII. + + 117 The path from Ville de Val Louise to Entraigues is good, and well + shaded by luxuriant foliage. The valley (d'Entraigues) is narrow; + bordered by fine cliffs; and closed at its western end by a noble + block of mountains, which looks much higher than it is. The highest + point (the Pic de Bonvoisin) is 11,500 feet. Potatoes, peas, and + other vegetables, are grown at Entraigues (5284 feet), although the + situation of the chalets is bleak, and cut off from the sun. + + The Combe (or Vallon) de la Selle joins the main valley at + Entraigues, and one can pass from the former by the little-known Col + de Loup (immediately to the south of the Pic de Bonvoisin) into the + Val Godemar. Two other passes, both of considerable height, lead + from the head of the Vallon de la Selle into the valleys of + Champoléon and Argentière. + + 118 This, like many other names given to mountains and glaciers on sheet + 189, is not a local name, or, at least, is not one that is in common + use. + + 119 The height of the Col de Sellar (or de Celar) is 10,073 feet + (Forbes). I was told by peasants at Entraigues that sheep and goats + can be easily taken across it. + + 120 See map on p. 146. It is perhaps just possible, although improbable, + that these little glaciers were united together at the time that the + survey was made. Since then the glaciers of Dauphiné (as throughout + the Alps generally) have shrunk very considerably. A notable + diminution took place in their size in 1869, which was attributed by + the natives to the very heavy rains of that year. + + 121 This drawing was made to illustrate the remarks which follow. It + does not represent any particular couloir, though it would serve, + tolerably well, as a portrait of the one which we ascended when + crossing the Col de Pilatte. + + 122 The upper part of the southern side of the Col de Pilatte, and the + small glaciers spoken of on p. 168, can be seen from the high road + leading from Briançon to Mont Dauphin, between the 12th and 13th + kilomètre stones (from Briançon). + + 123 Since the above paragraphs were first printed, there has been some + improvement in Dauphiné in respect to the inns; and there is now at + La Ville de Val Louise a very decent little auberge called the Hôtel + Pelvoux, kept by M. Gauthier. + + 124 Under the title of _Massif du Mont Blanc, extrait des minutes de la + Carte de France, leré par M. Mieulet, Capitaine d'Etat Major_. + + 125 The heights (in mètres) are after Captain Mieulet. + + 126 Some of these heights have no business to figure in a list of the + principal peaks of the chain, being nothing more than teeth or + pinnacles in ridges, or portions of higher mountains. Such, for + example, are the Aiguilles du Géant, du Dru, and de Bionnassay. + + 127 Besides Mont Blanc itself. + + 128 Previous to this we made an attempt to ascend the Aiguille + d'Argentière, and were defeated by a violent wind when within a + hundred feet of the summit. + + 129 Great crevasses. A bergschrund is a schrund, and something more. + + 130 The passage of the Col de Triolet from the Couvercle to Prè du Bar + occupied 8½ hours of actual walking. If the pass had been taken in + the contrary direction it would have consumed a much longer time. It + gave a route shorter than any known at the time between Chamounix + and the St. Bernard. As a pass I cannot conscientiously recommend it + to any one (see Chap. XVII.), nor am I desirous to go again over the + moraine on the left bank of the Glacier de Triolet, or the rocks of + Mont Rouge. + + 131 The ascent of Mont Dolent and return to Prè du Bar (halts included) + occupied less than 11 hours. + + 132 The bracketed paragraphs in this chapter are extracted from the + notes of Mr. Reilly. + + 133 From a sketch by Mr. Adams-Reilly. + + 134 This glacier is named Glacier du Mont Blanc. + + 135 The Calotte is the name given to the dome of snow at the summit of + Mont Blanc. + + 136 Glacier du Dôme. + + 137 This is without a name. + + 138 I do not know the origin of the term _moraine_. De Saussure says + (vol. i. p. 380, § 536), "the peasants of Chamounix call these heaps + of débris _the moraine_ of the glacier." It may be inferred from + this that the term was a local one, peculiar to Chamounix. + + 139 An example is referred to on p. 106. Much more remarkable cases + might be instanced. + + 140 It is not usual to find small moraines to large glaciers fed by many + branches draining many different basins. That is, if the branches + are draining basins which are separated by mountain ridges, or + which, at least, have islands of rock protruding through the ice. + The small moraines contributed by one affluent are balanced, + probably, by great ones brought by another feeder. + +_ 141 Atlas of Physical Geography_, by Augustus Petermann and the Rev. T. + Milner. The italics are not in the original. + + 142 "The stones that are found upon the upper extremities of glaciers + are of the same nature as the mountains which rise above; but, as + the ice carries them down into the valleys, they arrive between + rocks of a totally different nature from their own."--De Saussure, § + 536. + + 143 One cannot do worse than follow that path. + + 144 The lower chalet de Lognan is 2½ hours' walking from Chamounix. From + thence to the summit of the Aiguille d'Argentière, and down to the + village of the same name, occupied 12½ hours. + + 145 The Col de Zinal or Triftjoch, between the Trifthorn and the Ober + Gabelhorn; and the Col Durand between the last-mentioned mountain + and the Dent Blanche. + + For our route from Zinal to Zermatt, see the Map of the Valley of + Zermatt. + + 146 High above the Glacier de Moming at the foot of the Crête de Milton. + + 147 Moore's Journal. + + 148 Through what is technically called an "ice-fall." + + 149 The responsibility, however, did not rest with Croz. His part was to + advise, but not to direct. + + 150 The summit of the pass has been marked on Dufour's map 3793 mètres, + or 12,444 feet. + + 151 These snow-cornices are common on the crests of high mountain + ridges, and it is always prudent (just before arriving upon the + summit of a mountain or ridge) to _sound_ with the alpenstock, that + is to say, drive it in, to discover whether there is one or not. Men + have often narrowly escaped losing their lives from neglecting this + precaution. Several instances have been known of cornices having + given way without a moment's notice, and of life only having been + saved through men being tied together. + + These cornices are frequently rolled round in a volute, and + sometimes take most extravagant forms. See page 32. + + 152 This opportunity has been taken to introduce to the reader some of + the most expert amateur mountaineers of the time; and a few of the + guides who have been, or will be, mentioned in the course of the + book. + + The late Peter Perrn is on the extreme right. Then come young Peter + Taugwalder (upon the bench); and J. J. Maquignaz (leaning against + the door-post). Franz Andermatten occupies the steps, and Ulrich + Lauener towers in the background. + + 153 See pp. 115 and 190. + + 154 See p. 141. + + 155 See pp. 169-171. + + 156 See pp. 236 and 266. + + 157 I engaged Croz for 1865 before I parted from him in 1864; but upon + writing to him in the month of April to fix the dates of his + engagement, I found that he had supposed he was free (in consequence + of not having heard from me earlier), and had engaged himself to a + Mr. B---- from the 27th of June. I endeavoured to hold him to his + promise, but he considered himself unable to withdraw from his later + obligation. His letters were honourable to him. The following + extract from the last one he wrote to me is given as an interesting + souvenir of a brave and upright man:-- + + [Illustration: Facsimile of a letter from Croz] + + 158 It was an entry describing an ascent of the Grand Cornier (which we + supposed had never been ascended) from the very direction which we + had just pronounced to be hopeless! It was especially startling, + because Franz Biener was spoken of in the account as having been + concerned in the ascent. On examining Biener it was found that he + had made the excursion, and had supposed at the time he was upon his + summit that it was the Grand Cornier. He saw afterwards that they + had only ascended one of the several points upon the ridge running + northwards from the Grand Cornier--I believe, the Pigne de l'Allée + (11,168 feet)! + + 159 For route, see the map of the Valley of Zermatt. + + 160 I wrote in the _Athenæum_, August 29, 1863, to the same effect. + "This action of the frost does not cease in winter, inasmuch as it + is impossible for the Matterhorn to be entirely covered by snow. + Less precipitous mountains may be entirely covered up during winter, + and if they do not then actually gain height, the wear and tear is, + at least, suspended.... We arrive, therefore, at the conclusion + that, although such snow-peaks as Mont Blanc _may_ in the course of + ages grow higher, the Matterhorn must decrease in height." These + remarks have received confirmation. + + The men who were left by M. Dollfus-Ausset in his observatory upon + the summit of the Col Théodule, during the winter of 1865, remarked + that the snow was partially melted upon the rocks in their vicinity + upon 19th, 20th, 21st, 22d, 23d, 26th, 27th December of that year, + and upon the 22d of December they entered in their Journal, "_Nous + avons vu au Matterhorn que la neige se fondait sur roches et qu'il + s'en écoulait de l'eau._"--_Matériaux pour l'étude des Glaciers_, + vol. viii. part i. p. 246, 1868; and vol. viii. part ii. p. 77, + 1869. + + 161 In each of the seven nights I passed upon the south-west ridge of + the Matterhorn in 1861-3 (at heights varying from 11,844 to 12,992 + feet above the level of the sea), the rocks fell incessantly in + showers and avalanches. See p. 120. + + 162 Tonson's Ed. of 1758. Bacon may have had this passage in mind when + he wrote, "It must not be thought that heat generates motion, or + motion heat (though in some respects this be true), but that the + very essence of heat, or the substantial self of heat, is motion and + nothing else."--_Novum Organum_, book ii. Devey's Translation. + + 163 Doubtless, _at the sides_ of glacier beds, the range of temperature + is greater. But there is evidence that the winter cold does not + penetrate to the innermost recesses of glacier-beds in the fact that + streams continue to flow underneath the ice all the year round, + winter as well as summer, in the Alps and (I was informed in + Greenland) in Greenland. Experimental proof can be readily obtained + that even in midsummer the bottom temperature is close to 32° Faht. + + 164 Professor Tyndall "On the Conformation of the Alps," _Phil. Mag._, + Sept. 1862. + + 165 This had been crossed, for the first time, a few months before. + + 166 The following details may interest mountain-climbers. Left Zinal + (5505 feet) 2.5 A.M. Thence to plateau S.E. of summit of Grand + Cornier, 5 h. 25 min. From the plateau to the summit of the + mountain, 2½ hours. The last 300 feet of the ridge followed were + exceedingly sharp and narrow, with a great cornice, from which huge + icicles depended. We were obliged to go _underneath_ the cornice, + and to cut a way through the icicles. Descent from summit to + plateau, 1 h. 40 min. Sharp snow-storm, with thunder. Plateau to + summit of Col du Grand Cornier (rocks easy), 45 min. From the summit + of the Col to the end of glacier leading to the west, 55 min. Thence + to Abricolla (7959), 15 min. + + 167 The brother of my guide Michel Croz. + + 168 See note to p. 70. + + 169 See map of the Valley of Zermatt. + + 170 Couloirs are invariably protected at their bases by bergschrunds. An + example of a couloir with a double bergschrund is given on p. 169. + + 171 The summit of the Dent Blanche is a ridge, perhaps one hundred yards + in length. The highest point is usually at its north-eastern end. + Several ascents besides those made by Mr. Kennedy and the author + have been made in late years; but, as yet, no one seems to have + discovered an easy route up the mountain. + + 172 The ascent of the Dent Blanche is the hardest that I have made. + There was nothing upon it so difficult as the last 500 feet of the + Pointe des Ecrins; but, on the other hand, there was hardly a step + upon it which was positively easy. The whole of the face required + actual climbing. There was, probably, very little difference in + difficulty between the route we took in 1865, and that followed by + Mr. Kennedy in 1862. + + 173 See Map of the Valley of Zermatt. The route taken upon June 19 is + alone marked. + + 174 See Chap. III. pp. 44-5. + + 175 Subsequent experiences of others have strengthened this opinion. + + 176 I prefer to be on the safe side. My impression is that snow cannot + accumulate in large masses _at_ 45°. + + 177 Upon this subject I beg to refer the reader to the valuable note + furnished by Signor F. Giordano in the Appendix. + + 178 See pp. 56 and 73. + + 179 Weathered granite is an admirable rock to climb; its gritty texture + giving excellent hold to the nails in one's boots. But upon such + metamorphic schists as compose the mass of the great peak of the + Matterhorn, the texture of the rock itself is of little or no value. + + 180 I refer here only to that portion of the ridge which is between the + Col du Lion and the Great Tower. The remarks would not apply to the + rocks higher up (see p. 75); higher still the rocks are firm again; + yet higher (upon the "Shoulder") they are much disintegrated; and + then, upon the final peak, they are again firm. + +_ 181 Travels through the Alps_, 2nd ed. p. 317. + + 182 Its position is shown by the letter F, on the right of the outline, + on p. 85. See also Map of the Matterhorn and its Glaciers. + + 183 See p. 94. + + 184 See Frontispiece. + + 185 See note to p. 95. + + 186 The ascent of the Grandes Jorasses was made to obtain a view of the + upper part of the Aig. Verte, and upon that account the westernmost + summit was selected in preference to the highest one. Both summits + are shown upon the accompanying engraving. That on the right is (as + it appears to be) the highest. That upon its left is the one which + we ascended, and is about 100 feet lower than the other. A couple of + days after our ascent, Henri Grati, Julien Grange, Jos. Mar. Perrod, + Alexis Clusaz, and Daniel Gex (all of Courmayeur), followed our + traces to the summit in order to learn the way. As far as my + observation extends, such things are seldom done by money-grasping + or spiritless guides, and I have much pleasure in being able to + mention their names. The highest point (13,799) was ascended on June + 29-30, 1868, by Mr. Horace Walker, with the guides Melchior + Anderegg, J. Jaun, and Julien Grange. + + 187 The view of Mont Blanc from a gorge on the south of the Italian Val + Ferret, mid-way between the villages of La Vachey and Praz Sec, and + about 3000 feet above them, is, in my opinion, the finest which can + be obtained of that mountain range anywhere upon the Italian side. + + 188 The next generation may witness its extinction. The portion of it + seen from the village of Argentière was in 1869 at least one quarter + less in width than it was ten years earlier. + + 189 This observation is not made without reason. I have seen the head of + one tumble off at a slight tap, in consequence of its handle having + been perforated by an ingenious but useless arrangement of nails. + + 190 I estimate its height at 1200 feet. The triangulation of Capt. + Mieulet places the summit of the pass 11,624 feet above the sea. + This, I think, is rather too high. + +_ 191 Wanderings among the High Alps_, 1858. + + 192 Most of his principal exploits are recorded in the publications of + the Alpine Club. + + 193 Engraved, by permission, from a photograph by Mr. E. Edwards. + + 194 Admirably rendered in the accompanying drawing by Mr. Cyrus Johnson. + + 195 I heard lately of two well-known mountaineers who, under the + influence of sudden alarm, _swallowed their crystals_. I am happy to + say that they were able to cough them up again. + + 196 Hand specimens of the highest rocks of the Aiguille Verte cannot be + distinguished from granite. The rock is almost identical in quality + with that at the summit of Mont Dolent, and is probably a granitöid + gneiss. + + 197 The summit of the Aiguille Verte was a snowy dome, large enough for + a quadrille. I was surprised to see the great height of Les Droites. + Captain Mieulet places its summit at 13,222 feet, but I think it + must be very slightly lower than the Verte itself. + + 198 The Chamounix tariff price for the ascent of the Aiguille is now + placed at £4 _per guide_. + + 199 It should be said that we received the most polite apologies for + this affair from the chief of the gensdarmes, and an invitation to + lodge a complaint against the ring-leaders. We accepted his + apologies, and declined his invitation. Needless to add, Michel Croz + took no part in the demonstration. + + 200 Below the second ice-fall the glacier is completely covered up with + moraine matter, and if the _left_ bank is followed, one is compelled + either to traverse this howling waste or to lose much time upon the + tedious and somewhat difficult rocks of Mont Rouge. + + 201 In glissading an erect position should be maintained, and the point + of the alpenstock allowed to trail over the snow. If it is necessary + to stop, or to slacken speed, the point is pressed against the + slope, as shown in the illustration. + + 202 Comparison of the Col de Triolet with the Col de Talèfre will show + what a great difference in ease there may be between tracks which + are nearly identical. For a distance of several miles these routes + are scarcely more than half-a-mile apart. Nearly every step of the + former is difficult, whilst the latter has no difficulty whatever. + The route we adopted over the Col de Talèfre may perhaps be + improved. It may be possible to go directly from the head of the + Glacier de Triolet to its right bank, and, if so, at least thirty + minutes might be saved. + + The following is a list of the principal of the passes across the + main ridge of the range of Mont Blanc, with the years in which the + first passages were effected, as far as I know them:--1. Col de + Trélatête (1864), between Aig. du Glacier and Aig. de Trélatête. 2. + Col de Miage, between Aig. de Miage and Aig. de Bionnassay. 3. Col + du Dôme (1865), over the Dôme du Goûter. 4. Col du Mont Blanc + (1868), over Mont Blanc. 5. Col de la Brenva (1865), between Mont + Blanc and Mont Maudit. 6. Col de la Tour Ronde (1867), over la Tour + Ronde. 7. Col du Géant, between la Tour Ronde and Aigs. Marbrées. 8. + Col des Grandes Jorasses (1873), between the Grandes and Petites + Jorasses. 9. Col de Leschaux (1877), between the Aig. de + l'Eboulement and the Aig. de Leschaux. 10. Col Pierre Joseph (1866), + over Aig. de l'Eboulement. 11. Col de Talèfre (1865), between Aigs. + Talèfre and Triolet. 12. Col de Triolet (1864), between Aigs. + Talèfre and Triolet. 13. Col Dolent (1865), between Aig. de Triolet + and Mont Dolent. 14. Col d'Argentière (1861), between Mont Dolent + and la Tour Noire. 15. Col de la Tour Noire (1863), between the Tour + Noire and the Aig. d'Argentière. 16. Col du Chardonnet (1863), + between Aigs. d'Argentière and Chardonnet. 17. Col du Tour, between + Aigs. du Chardonnet and Tour. + + 203 After crossing the glacier de Breney, we ascended by some débris, + and then by some cliffy ground, to the glacier which surrounds the + peak upon the south; bore to the left (that is to the west) and went + up the edge of the glacier; and lastly took to the arête of the + ridge which descends towards the south-west, and followed it to the + summit (12,727). + + 204 Manufactured and sold by Messrs. Buckingham, Broad Street, + Bloomsbury. + + 205 For example, when the leader suspects crevasses, and _sounds_ for + them, in the manner shown in the engraving, he usually loses half a + step or more. The second man should take a turn of the rope around + his hand to draw it back in case the leader goes through. + + 206 When several persons are descending such places, it is evident that + the _last man_ cannot derive any assistance from the rope, and so + might as well be untied. Partly upon this account, it is usual to + place one of the strongest and steadiest men last. Now, although + this cannot be termed a senseless precaution, it is obvious that it + is a perfectly useless one, if it is true that a single slip would + upset the entire party. The best plan I know is that which we + adopted on the descent of the Col Dolent, namely, to let one man go + in advance until he reaches some secure point. This one then + detaches himself, the rope is drawn up, and another man is sent down + to join him, and so on until the last. The last man still occupies + the most difficult post, and should be the steadiest man; but he is + not exposed to any risk from his comrades slipping, and they, of + course, draw in the rope as he descends, so that his position is + less hazardous than if he were to come down quite by himself. + + 207 If you are out upon an excursion, and find the work becoming so + arduous that you have great difficulty in maintaining your balance, + you should at once retire, and not imperil the lives of others. I am + well aware that the withdrawal of one person for such reasons would + usually necessitate the retreat of a second, and that expeditions + would be often cut short if this were to happen. With the fear of + this before their eyes, I believe that many amateurs continue to go + on, albeit well convinced that they ought not. They do not wish to + stop the sport of their comrades; but they frequently suffer mental + tortures in consequence, which most emphatically do not assist their + stability, and are likely to lead to something even more + disagreeable than the abandonment of the excursion. The moral is, + take an adequate number of guides. + + 208 During the preceding eighteen days (I exclude Sundays and other + non-working days) we ascended more than 100,000 feet, and descended + 98,000 feet. + + 209 See p. 79. + + 210 Tourists usually congregate at Zermatt upon Sundays, and large gangs + and droves cross the Théodule pass on Mondays. + + 211 The Italian Minister. Signor Giordano had undertaken the business + arrangements for Signor Sella. + + 212 Peter Taugwalder, the father, is called _old_ Peter, to distinguish + him from his eldest son, _young_ Peter. In 1865 the father's age was + about 45. + + 213 Brother of the present Marquis of Queensberry. + + 214 For route, and the others mentioned in the subsequent chapters, see + map of Matterhorn and its glaciers. + + 215 The two young Taugwalders were taken as porters, by desire of their + father, and carried provisions amply sufficient for three days, in + case the ascent should prove more troublesome than we anticipated. + + 216 I remember speaking about pedestrianism to a well-known mountaineer + some years ago, and venturing to remark that a man who averaged + thirty miles a-day might be considered a good walker. "A fair + walker," he said, "a _fair_ walker." "What then would you consider + _good_ walking?" "Well," he replied, "I will tell you. Some time + back a friend and I agreed to go to Switzerland, but a short time + afterwards he wrote to say he ought to let me know that a young and + delicate lad was going with him who would not be equal to great + things, in fact, he would not be able to do more than fifty miles + a-day!" "What became of the young and delicate lad?" "He lives." + "And who was your extraordinary friend?" "Charles Hudson." I have + every reason to believe that the gentlemen referred to _were_ equal + to walking more than fifty miles a-day, but they were exceptional, + not _good_ pedestrians. + + Charles Hudson, Vicar of Skillington in Lincolnshire, was considered + by the mountaineering fraternity to be the best amateur of his time. + He was the organiser and leader of the party of Englishmen who + ascended Mont Blanc by the Aig. du Goûter, and descended by the + Grands Mulets route, without guides, in 1855. His long practice made + him surefooted, and in that respect he was not greatly inferior to a + born mountaineer. I remember him as a well-made man of middle height + and age, neither stout nor thin, with face pleasant--though grave, + and with quiet unassuming manners. Although an athletic man, he + would have been overlooked in a crowd; and although he had done the + greatest mountaineering feats which have been done, he was the last + man to speak of his own doings. His friend Mr. Hadow was a young man + of nineteen, who had the looks and manners of a greater age. He was + a rapid walker, but 1865 was his first season in the Alps. Lord + Francis Douglas was about the same age as Mr. Hadow. He had had the + advantage of several seasons in the Alps. He was nimble as a deer, + and was becoming an expert mountaineer. Just before our meeting he + had ascended the Ober Gabelhorn (with old Peter Taugwalder and Jos. + Viennin), and this gave me a high opinion of his powers; for I had + examined that mountain all round, a few weeks before, and had + declined its ascent on account of its apparent difficulty. + + My personal acquaintance with Mr. Hudson was very slight--still I + should have been content to have placed myself under his orders if + he had chosen to claim the position to which he was entitled. Those + who knew him will not be surprised to learn that, so far from doing + this, he lost no opportunity of consulting the wishes and opinions + of those around him. We deliberated together whenever there was + occasion, and our authority was recognised by the others. Whatever + responsibility there was devolved upon _us_. I recollect with + satisfaction that there was no difference of opinion between us as + to what should be done, and that the most perfect harmony existed + between all of us so long as we were together. + + 217 Arrived at the chapel 7.30 A.M.; left it, 8.20; halted to examine + route 9.30; started again 10.25, and arrived at 11.20 at the cairn + made by Mr. Kennedy in 1862 (see p. 59), marked 10,820 feet upon the + map. Stopped 10 min. here. From the Hörnli to this point we kept, + when possible, to the crest of the ridge. The greater part of the + way was excessively easy, though there were a few places where the + axe had to be used. + + 218 Thus far the guides did not once go to the front. Hudson or I led, + and when any cutting was required we did it ourselves. This was done + to spare the guides, and to show them that we were thoroughly in + earnest. The spot at which we camped was four hours' walking from + Zermatt, and is marked upon the map--CAMP (1865). It was just upon a + level with the Furggengrat, and its position is indicated upon the + engraving facing p. 227 by a little circular white spot, in a line + with the word CAMP. + + 219 It was originally intended to leave both of the young men behind. We + found it difficult to divide the food, and so the new arrangement + was made. + + 220 See pp. 227-231. + + 221 For track, see the lower of the outlines facing p. 230. + + 222 See remarks on arêtes and faces on p. 206. There is very little to + choose between in the arêtes leading from the summit towards the + Hörnli (N.E. ridge) and towards the Col du Lion (S.W. ridge). Both + are jagged, serrated ridges, which any experienced climber would + willingly avoid if he could find another route. On the northern + (Zermatt) side the eastern face affords another route, or any number + of routes, since there is hardly a part of it which cannot be + traversed! On the southern (Breil) side the ridge alone, generally + speaking, can be followed; and when it becomes impracticable, and + the climber is forced to bear down to the right or to the left, the + work is of the most difficult character. + + 223 Very few stones fell during the two days I was on the mountain, and + none came near us. Others who have followed the same route have not + been so fortunate; they may not, perhaps, have taken the same + precautions. It is a noteworthy fact, that the lateral moraine of + the left bank of the Furggengletscher is scarcely larger than that + of the right bank, although the former receives all the débris that + falls from the 4000 feet of cliffs which form the eastern side of + the Matterhorn, whilst the latter is fed by perfectly insignificant + slopes. Neither of these moraines is large. This is strong evidence + that stones do _not_ fall to any great extent from the eastern face. + The inward dip of the beds retains the detritus in place. Hence the + eastern face appears, when one is upon it, to be undergoing more + rapid disintegration than the other sides: in reality, the mantle of + ruin spares the mountain from farther waste. Upon the southern side, + rocks fall as they are rent off; "each day's work is cleared away" + every day; and hence the faces and ridges are left naked, and are + exposed to fresh attacks. + + 224 The snow seen in the engraving facing p. 227, half-an-inch below the + summit, and a little to its right. + + 225 This part was less steeply inclined than the whole of the eastern + face. + + 226 I have no memorandum of the time that it occupied. It must have + taken about an hour and a half. + + 227 The highest points are towards the two ends. In 1865 the northern + end was slightly higher than the southern one. In bygone years + Carrel and I often suggested to each other that we might one day + arrive upon the top, and find ourselves cut off from the very + highest point by a notch in the summit-ridge which is seen from the + Theodule and from Breil (marked *D* on the outline on p. 85). This + notch is very conspicuous from below, but when we were upon the + summit it was hardly noticed, and it could be passed without the + least difficulty. + + 228 I have learnt since from J.-A. Carrel that they heard our first + cries. They were then upon the south-west ridge, close to the + "Cravate," and _twelve hundred and fifty_ feet below us; or, as the + crow flies, at a distance of about one-third of a mile. + + 229 At our departure the men were confident that the ascent would be + made, and took one of the poles out of the tent. I protested that it + was tempting Providence; they took the pole, nevertheless. + + 230 Signor Giordano was naturally disappointed at the result, and wished + the men to start again. _They all refused to do so, with the + exception of Jean-Antoine._ Upon the 16th of July he set out again + with three others, and upon the 17th gained the summit by passing + (at first) up the south-west ridge, and (afterwards) by turning over + to the Z'Mutt, or north-western side. On the 18th he returned to + Breil. + + Whilst we were upon the southern end of the summit-ridge, we paid + some attention to the portion of the mountain which intervened + between ourselves and the Italian guides. It seemed as if there + would not be the least chance for them if they should attempt to + storm the final peak directly from the end of the "shoulder." In + that direction cliffs fell sheer down from the summit, and we were + unable to see beyond a certain distance. There remained the route + about which Carrel and I had often talked, namely to ascend directly + at first from the end of the "shoulder," and afterwards to swerve to + the left--that is, to the Z'Mutt side--and to complete the ascent from + the north-west. When we were upon the summit we laughed at this + idea. The part of the mountain that I have described upon p. 278, + was not easy, although its inclination was moderate. If that slope + were made only ten degrees steeper, its difficulty would be + enormously increased. To double its inclination would be to make it + impracticable. The slope at the southern end of the summit-ridge, + falling towards the north-west, was _much_ steeper than that over + which we passed, and we ridiculed the idea that any person should + attempt to ascend in that direction, when the northern route was so + easy. Nevertheless, the summit was reached by that route by the + undaunted Carrel. From knowing the final slope over which he passed, + and from the account of Mr. F. C. Grove--who is the only traveller by + whom it has been traversed--I do not hesitate to term the ascent of + Carrel and Bich in 1865 the most desperate piece of + mountain-scrambling upon record. In 1869 I asked Carrel if he had + ever done anything more difficult. His reply was, "Man cannot do + anything much more difficult than that!" See Appendix *D*. + + 231 The summit-ridge was much shattered, although not so extensively as + the south-west and north-east ridges. The highest rock, in 1865, was + a block of micaschist, and the fragment I broke off it not only + possesses, in a remarkable degree, the character of the peak, but + mimics, in an astonishing manner, the details of its form. (See + illustration on page 284.) + + 232 It is most unusual to see the southern half of the panorama + unclouded. A hundred ascents may be made before this will be the + case again. + + 233 The substance of Chapter XX. appeared in a letter in the _Times_, + August 8, 1865. A few paragraphs have now been added, and a few + corrections have been made. The former will help to make clear that + which was obscure in the original account, and the latter are, + mostly, unimportant. + + 234 If the members of the party had been more equally efficient, Croz + would have been placed _last_. + + 235 Described upon pp. 277-8. + + 236 Not at all an unusual proceeding, even between born mountaineers. I + wish to convey the impression that Croz was using all pains, rather + than to indicate extreme inability on the part of Mr. Hadow. The + insertion of the word "absolutely" makes the passage, perhaps, + rather ambiguous. I retain it now, in order to offer the above + explanation. + + 237 At the moment of the accident, Croz, Hadow, and Hudson, were all + close together. Between Hudson and Lord F. Douglas the rope was all + but taut, and the same between all the others, who were _above_. + Croz was standing by the side of a rock which afforded good hold, + and if he had been aware, or had suspected, that anything was about + to occur, he might and would have gripped it, and would have + prevented any mischief. He was taken totally by surprise. Mr. Hadow + slipped off his feet on to his back, his feet struck Croz in the + small of the back, and knocked him right over, head first. Croz's + axe was out of his reach, yet without it he managed to get his head + uppermost before he disappeared from our sight. If it had been in + his hand I have no doubt that he would have stopped himself and Mr. + Hadow. + + Mr. Hadow, at the moment of his slip, was not occupying a bad + position. He could have moved either up or down, and could touch + with his hand the rock of which I have spoken. Hudson was not so + well placed, but he had liberty of motion. The rope was not taut + from him to Hadow, and the two men fell ten or twelve feet before + the jerk came upon him. Lord F. Douglas was not favourably placed, + and could neither move up nor down. Old Peter was firmly planted, + and stood just beneath a large rock which he hugged with both arms. + I enter into these details to make it more apparent that the + position occupied by the party at the moment of the accident was not + by any means excessively trying. We were compelled to pass over the + exact spot where the slip occurred, and we found--even with shaken + nerves--that _it_ was not a difficult place to pass. I have described + the _slope generally_ as difficult, and it is so undoubtedly to most + persons; but it must be distinctly understood that Mr. Hadow slipped + at an easy part. + + 238 Or, more correctly, we held on as tightly as possible. There was no + time to change our position. + + 239 These ends, I believe, are still attached to the rocks, and mark our + line of ascent and descent. I saw one of them in 1873. + + 240 I paid very little attention to this remarkable phenomenon, and was + glad when it disappeared, as it distracted our attention. Under + ordinary circumstances I should have felt vexed afterwards at not + having observed with greater precision an occurrence so rare and so + wonderful. I can add very little about it to that which is said + above. The sun was directly at our backs; that is to say, the + fog-bow was opposite to the sun. The time was 6.30 P.M. The forms + were at once tender and sharp; neutral in tone; were developed + gradually, and disappeared suddenly. The mists were light (that is, + not dense), and were dissipated in the course of the evening. + + It has been suggested that the crosses are incorrectly figured in + the accompanying view, and that they were probably formed by the + intersection of other circles or ellipses, as shown in the annexed + diagram. I think this suggestion is very likely correct; but I have + preferred to follow my original memorandum. + + [Illustration: Diagram of fog-bow] + + In Parry's _Narrative of an Attempt to reach the North Pole_, 4to, + 1828, there is, at pp. 99-100, an account of the occurrence of a + phenomenon analogous to the above-mentioned one. "At half-past five + P.M. we witnessed a very beautiful natural phenomenon. A broad white + fog-bow first appeared opposite to the sun, as was very commonly the + case," etc. I follow Parry in using the term fog-bow. + + It may be observed that, upon the descent of the Italian guides + (whose expedition is noticed upon p. 282, and again in the + Appendix), upon July 17, 1865, the phenomenon commonly termed the + Brocken was observed. The following is the account given by the Abbé + Amé Gorret in the _Feuille d'Aoste_, October 31, 1865:--"Nous étions + sur l'épaule (the 'shoulder') quand nous remarquâmes un phénomène + qui nous fit plaisir; le nuage était très-dense du côté de + Valtornanche, c'était serein en Suisse; nous nous vîmes au milieu + d'un cercle aux couleurs de l'arc-en-ciel; ce mirage nous formait à + tous une couronne au milieu de laquelle nous voyions notre ombre." + This occurred at about 6.30 to 7 P.M., and the Italians in question + were at about the same height as ourselves--namely, 14,000 feet. + + 241 They had been travelling with, and had been engaged by, Lord F. + Douglas, and so considered him their employer, and responsible to + them. + + 242 Transcribed from the original memorandum. + + 243 Nor did I speak to them afterwards, unless it was absolutely + necessary, so long as we were together. + + 244 A portrait of Franz Andermatten is given in the engraving facing p. + 202. + + 245 To the point marked *Z* on the map. + + 246 Marked with a cross on the map. + + 247 A pair of gloves, a belt, and boot that had belonged to him, were + found. This, somehow, became publicly known, and gave rise to wild + notions, which would not have been entertained had it been also + known that the _whole_ of the boots of those who had fallen _were + off_, and were lying upon the snow near the bodies. + + 248 The three ropes have been reduced by photography to the same scale. + + 249 I was one hundred feet or more from the others whilst they were + being tied up, and am unable to throw any light on the matter. Croz + and old Peter no doubt tied up the others. + + 250 This is not the only occasion upon which M. Clemenz (who presided + over the inquiry) has failed to give up answers that he has + promised. It is greatly to be regretted that he does not feel that + the suppression of the truth is equally against the interests of + travellers and of the guides. If the men are untrustworthy, the + public should be warned of the fact; but if they are blameless, why + allow them to remain under unmerited suspicion? + + Old Peter Taugwalder is a man who is labouring under an unjust + accusation. Notwithstanding repeated denials, even his comrades and + neighbours at Zermatt persist in asserting or insinuating that he + _cut_ the rope which led from him to Lord F. Douglas. In regard to + this infamous charge, I say that he _could_ not do so at the moment + of the slip, and that the end of the rope in my possession shows + that he did not do so beforehand. There remains, however, the + suspicious fact that the rope which broke was the thinnest and + weakest one that we had. It is suspicious, because it is unlikely + that any of the four men in front would have selected an old and + weak rope when there was abundance of new, and much stronger, rope + to spare; and, on the other hand, because if Taugwalder thought that + an accident was likely to happen, it was to his interest to have the + weaker rope where it was placed. + + I should rejoice to learn that his answers to the questions which + were put to him were satisfactory. Not only was his act at the + critical moment wonderful as a feat of strength, but it was + admirable in its performance at the right time. I am told that he is + now nearly incapable for work--not absolutely mad, but with intellect + gone and almost crazy; which is not to be wondered at, whether we + regard him as a man who contemplated a scoundrelly meanness, or as + an injured man suffering under an unjust accusation. + + In respect to young Peter, it is not possible to speak in the same + manner. The odious idea that he propounded (which I believe emanated + from _him_) he has endeavoured to trade upon, in spite of the fact + that his father was paid (for both) in the presence of witnesses. + Whatever may be his abilities as a guide, he is not one to whom I + would ever trust my life, or afford any countenance. + + 251 They followed the route laid down upon the map, and on their descent + were in great peril from the fall of a _sérac_. The character of the + work they undertook may be gathered from a reference to p. 100. + + 252 This, or a subsequent party, discovered a sleeve. No other traces + have been found. + + 253 See p. 48. + + 254 See p. 120. + + 255 Malte-Brun's _Annales des Voyages_, April 1869. + + 256 Peter Perrn, the well-known guide, died at Zermatt in the winter of + 1873-4. + + 257 A place on the final peak, about half-way between the "Shoulder" and + the summit. + + 258 We resume here the account of the proceedings of the Italians who + started from Breil on the 11th of July 1865. See p. 269. + + 259 The foregoing particulars were related to me by J.-A. Carrel. + + 260 The following details are taken from the account of the Abbé Amé + Gorret (published in the _Feuille d'Aoste_, Oct. 1865), who was at + Breil when the men returned. + + 261 See Appendix *E*, attempt No. 1. + + 262 These terms, as well as the others, Great Staircase, Col du Lion, + Tête du Lion, Chimney, and so forth, were applied by Carrel and + myself to the various points, in consequence of real or supposed + resemblances in the rocks to other things. A few of the terms + originated with the Author, but they are chiefly due to the + inventive genius of J.-A. Carrel. + + 263 This point is marked by the red letter *E* upon the lower of the two + outlines facing p. 44. + + 264 I have seen icicles more than a hundred feet long hanging from the + rocks near the summit of the Matterhorn. + + 265 The words of the Abbé. I imagine that he meant _comparatively easy_. + + 266 The pace of a party is ruled by that of its least efficient member. + + 267 See pp. 83-4 and pp. 90-1. + + 268 A ridge descending towards the Z'Muttgletscher. + + 269 Joseph and J.-Pierre Maquignaz alone ascended; the others had had + enough and returned. It should be observed that ropes had been + fixed, by J.-A. Carrel and others, over _all_ the difficult parts of + the mountain as high as the shoulder, _before_ the advent of these + persons. This explains the facility with which they moved over + ground which had been found very trying in earlier times. The young + woman declared that the ascent (as far as she went) was a trifle, or + used words to that effect; if she had tried to get to the same + height before 1862, she would probably have been of a different + opinion. + + 270 Cette roche granitoïde paraît surtout à la base ouest du pic sous le + col du Lion, tandis qu'elle ne paraît pas du tout sur le flanc est, + où elle paraît passer au gneiss talqueux. + + 271 En plusieurs localités des environs, cette zone calcarifère présente + des bancs et des lentilles de dolomie, de cargueule, de gypse et de + quartzite. + + + + + + TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE + + +Italic type is marked by underscore (_), boldface by asterisk (*). + +The following changes have been made to the text: + + page 24, "fire" changed to "fir" + page 178, "Cormayeur" changed to "Courmayeur" + page 203, "regele" changed to "regale", "Pernn" changed to "Perrn" + page 243, "naturrally" changed to "naturally" + page 269, opening quote added before "That" + page 294, "crritical" changed to "critical" + page 315, period added after "47-9" + page 319, period added after "Andermatten" + page 321, period added after "Taugwalder" + +Variations in accentuation ("chalet"/"châlet"), hyphenation (e.g. +"commonplace"/"common-place", "midday"/"mid-day") and spelling +("Ortler"/"Orteler") have not been changed. + + + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN*** + + + + CREDITS + + +November 17, 2011 + + Project Gutenberg TEI edition 1 + Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Stefan Cramme, and the Online + Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + A WORD FROM PROJECT GUTENBERG + + +This file should be named 38044-8.txt or 38044-8.zip. + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + + + http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/8/0/4/38044/ + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one -- the old editions will be +renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no one +owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation (and +you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without permission +and without paying copyright royalties. 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\ No newline at end of file diff --git a/old/38044-pdf.pdf b/old/38044-pdf.pdf Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7a0ccc3 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/38044-pdf.pdf diff --git a/old/38044-tei/38044-tei.tei b/old/38044-tei/38044-tei.tei new file mode 100644 index 0000000..7ecd829 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/38044-tei/38044-tei.tei @@ -0,0 +1,16390 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8" ?> +<!DOCTYPE TEI.2 SYSTEM "http://www.gutenberg.org/tei/marcello/0.4/dtd/pgtei.dtd"> +<TEI.2 lang="en"> + <teiHeader> + <fileDesc> + <titleStmt> + <title>The Ascent of the Matterhorn</title> + <author><name reg="Whymper, Edward">Edward Whymper</name></author> + </titleStmt> + <publicationStmt> + <publisher>Project Gutenberg</publisher> + <date value="2011-11-17">November 17, 2011</date> + <idno type='etext-no'>38044</idno> + <availability> + <p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere + at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. + You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under + the terms of the Project Gutenberg License online at + www.gutenberg.org/license</p> + </availability> + </publicationStmt> + <sourceDesc> + <p><bibl> + <author><name reg="Whymper, Edward">Edward Whymper</name></author> + <title>The Ascent of the Matterhorn</title> + <imprint> + <publisher>John Murray</publisher> + <pubPlace>London</pubPlace> + <date>1880</date> + </imprint> + </bibl></p> + </sourceDesc> + </fileDesc> + <encodingDesc> + </encodingDesc> + <profileDesc> + <langUsage> + <language id="it" /> + <language id="fr" /> + <language id="en" /> + <language id="de" /> + </langUsage> + </profileDesc> + <revisionDesc> + <change> + <date value="2011-11-17">November 17, 2011</date> + <respStmt> + <resp>Produced by <name>Juliet Sutherland</name>, <name>Stefan Cramme</name>, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net</resp> + </respStmt> + <item>Project Gutenberg TEI edition 1</item> + </change> + </revisionDesc> + </teiHeader> + + <pgExtensions> + <pgStyleSheet> + .antiqua { font-weight: bold } + .center { text-align: center } + .italic { font-style: italic } + .right { text-align: right } + .large { font-size: large } + .small { font-size: 75% } + .smallcaps { font-variant: small-caps } + head { text-align: center } + lg { margin-left: 2 } + p.ill { text-align: center } + @media txt { + head.ill { display: none } + } + figure { text-align: center } + .w100 { } + .w80 { } + .w40 { } + .w60 { } + @media pdf { + .w40 { width: 40%; page-float: 'htp' } + .w100 { width: 100%; page-float: 'htp' } + .w80 { width: 80%; page-float: 'htp' } + .w60 { width: 60%; page-float: 'htp' } + } + </pgStyleSheet> + <pgCharMap formats="txt"> + <char id="U0x2009"> + <charName>thinsp</charName> + <desc>THIN SPACE</desc> + <mapping></mapping> + </char> + </pgCharMap> + </pgExtensions> + +<text lang="en"> +<front> + <div> + <divGen type="pgheader" /> + </div> + <div> + <divGen type="encodingDesc" /> + </div> +<div> + <p><figure url="images/cover.jpg" rend="w80"><figDesc>Illustration: Cover</figDesc></figure></p> + <pb/><anchor id='Pgii'/><anchor id="plate01"/> + <pgIf output="txt"> + <then><p rend="ill">[Illustration: <q>THEY SAW MASSES OF ROCKS, BOULDERS, AND STONES, DART ROUND THE CORNER.</q>]</p></then> + <else><p> + <figure url="images/illus001.jpg" rend="w80"><head rend="ill"><q>THEY SAW MASSES OF ROCKS, BOULDERS, AND STONES, DART ROUND THE CORNER.</q></head> + <figDesc>They saw masses of rocks, boulders and stones, dart round the corner.</figDesc></figure> + </p></else> + </pgIf> +</div> + <titlePage rend="center; page-break-before: always"> +<pb/><anchor id='Pgiii'/> +<docTitle> + <titlePart><hi rend="font-size: x-large">THE ASCENT</hi><lb/><lb/> + OF<lb/><lb/> + <hi rend="font-size: xx-large">THE MATTERHORN</hi></titlePart> +</docTitle> + <lb/><lb/> + <byline>BY<lb/><lb/> + <hi rend="font-size: large">EDWARD WHYMPER</hi></byline> + <lb/> + <figure url="images/illus002.png" rend="w40"><figDesc>Illustration: Vignette</figDesc></figure> + <lb/> + <titlePart>WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS</titlePart> + <lb/><lb/> + <epigraph><p>Toil and pleasure, in their natures opposite, are yet linked together in a kind +of necessary connection.—<hi rend='smallcaps'>Livy</hi>.</p></epigraph> + <docImprint> + <pubPlace>LONDON</pubPlace><lb/> + <publisher><hi rend="font-size: large">JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET</hi></publisher><lb/> + <date>1880</date> + </docImprint> + <lb/><lb/> + <titlePart rend="font-size: small"><hi rend='italic'>All rights are reserved</hi></titlePart> +<pb/><anchor id='Pgiv'/> +</titlePage><div rend="page-break-before: always"> + +<pb n='v'/><anchor id='Pgv'/> +<index index="toc" level1="Preface"/><index index="pdf" level1="Preface"/> +<head>PREFACE.</head> + +<p> +In the year 1860, shortly before leaving England for a long continental +tour, the late Mr. William Longman requested me to +make for him some sketches of the great Alpine peaks. At this +time I had only a literary acquaintance with mountaineering, and +had even not seen—much less set foot upon—a mountain. Amongst +the peaks which were upon my list was Mont Pelvoux, in Dauphiné. +The sketches that were required of it were to celebrate the +triumph of some Englishmen who intended to make its ascent. +They came—they saw—but they did not conquer. By a mere +chance I fell in with a very agreeable Frenchman who accompanied +this party, and was pressed by him to return to the assault. In +1861 we did so, with my friend Macdonald—and we conquered. +This was the origin of my scrambles amongst the Alps. +</p> + +<p> +The ascent of Mont Pelvoux (including the disagreeables) was +a very delightful scramble. The mountain air did <hi rend='italic'>not</hi> act as an +emetic; the sky did <hi rend='italic'>not</hi> look black, instead of blue; nor did I feel +tempted to throw myself over precipices. I hastened to enlarge +my experience, and went to the Matterhorn. I was urged towards +Mont Pelvoux by those mysterious impulses which cause men to +peer into the unknown. Not only was this mountain reputed to be +the highest in France, and on that account was worthy of attention, +but it was the dominating point of a most picturesque district of the +greatest interest, which, to this day, remains almost unexplored! +The Matterhorn attracted me simply by its grandeur. It was considered +to be the most thoroughly inaccessible of all mountains, +even by those who ought to have known better. Stimulated to +make fresh exertions by one repulse after another, I returned, year +<pb n='vi'/><anchor id='Pgvi'/>after year, as I had opportunity, more and more determined to find +a way up it, or to <hi rend='italic'>prove</hi> it to be really inaccessible. +</p> + +<p> +The chief part of this volume is occupied by the history of +these attacks on the Matterhorn, and the other excursions that +are described have all some connection, more or less remote, with +that mountain or with Mont Pelvoux. All are new excursions +(that is, excursions made for the first time), unless the contrary +is pointed out. Some have been passed over very briefly, and +entire ascents or descents have been disposed of in a single line. +Generally speaking, the salient points alone have been dwelt +upon, and the rest has been left to the imagination. This treatment +has spared the reader from much useless repetition. +</p> + +<p> +In endeavouring to make the book of some use to those who +may wish to go mountain-scrambling, whether in the Alps or elsewhere, +prominence has been given to our mistakes and failures; +and to some it may seem that our practice must have been bad if +the principles which are laid down are sound, or that the principles +must be unsound if the practice was good. The principles +which are brought under the notice of the reader are, however, +deduced from long experience, which experience had not been +gained at the time that the blunders were perpetrated; and, if it +had been acquired at an earlier date, there would have been fewer +failures to record. +</p> + +<p> +My scrambles amongst the Alps were a sort of apprenticeship +in the art of mountaineering, and they were, for the most part, +carried out in the company of men who were masters of their +craft. In any art the learner, who wishes to do good work, does +well to associate himself with master workmen, and I attribute +much of the success which is recorded in this volume to my having +been frequently under the guidance of the best mountaineers of +the time. The hints and observations which are dispersed throughout +the volume are not the result of personal experience only, +they have been frequently derived from professional mountaineers, +who have studied the art from their youth upwards.</p> +<pb n='vii'/><anchor id='Pgvii'/> + <p> +Without being unduly discursive in the narrative, it has not +been possible to include in the text all the observations which are +desirable for the general reader, and a certain amount of elementary +knowledge has been pre-supposed, which perhaps some do +not possess; and the opportunity is now taken of making a few +remarks which may serve to elucidate those which follow. +</p> + +<p> +When a man who is not a born mountaineer gets upon the +side of a mountain, he speedily finds out that walking is an art; +and very soon wishes that he could be a quadruped or a centipede, +or anything except a biped; but, as there is a difficulty in satisfying +these very natural desires, he ultimately procures an alpenstock +and turns himself into a tripod. This simple implement is +invaluable to the mountaineer, and when he is parted +from it involuntarily (and who has not been?) he is inclined +to say, just as one may remark of other friends, <q>You +were only a stick—a poor stick—but you were a true +friend, and I should like to be in your company again.</q> +</p> +<anchor id="fig01"/> +<figure url="images/illus006.png" rend="w40"><figDesc>Illustration: Point of Alpenstock</figDesc></figure> +<p> +Respecting the size of the alpenstock, let it be remarked +that it may be nearly useless if it be too long or +too short. It should always be shorter than the person +who carries it, but it may be any length you like between +three-fifths of your height and your extreme altitude. +It should be made of ash, of the very best quality; and +should support your weight upon its centre when it is +suspended at its two ends. Unless shod with an iron +point it can scarcely be termed an alpenstock, and the +nature of the point is of some importance. The kind I prefer is +shown in the <ref target="fig01">annexed illustration</ref>. It has a long tang running +into the wood, is supported by a rivetted collar, and its termination +is extremely sharp. With a point of this description +steps can be made in ice almost as readily as with an axe. +</p> + +<p> +A volume might be written upon the use of the alpenstock. +Its principal use is as a third leg, to extend one’s base line; and +when the beginner gets this well into his head he finds the +<pb n='viii'/><anchor id='Pgviii'/>implement of extraordinary value. In these latter times the pure +and simple alpenstock has gone out of fashion, and mountaineers +now almost universally carry a stick with a point at one end and +an axe-head at the +other. A moveable +axe-head is still a +desideratum. There +is a pick-axe made at +Birmingham with a +moveable head which +is better than any +other kind that I have +seen, but the head is +too clumsy to be held +in the hand, and various +improvements will +have to be effected in +it before it will be fit for use in mountaineering. Still, its principle +appears to me to be capable of adaptation, and on that +account I have introduced it here. +</p><anchor id="fig02"/> +<p><figure url="images/illus007a.png" rend="w60"><figDesc>Illustration: Birmingham pick-axe with moveable head</figDesc></figure></p> + <anchor id="fig03"/><p><figure url="images/illus007b.png" rend="w40"><figDesc>Illustration: Russian furnace</figDesc></figure></p> +<p> +After the alpenstock, or axe-alpenstock, it is of most importance +for the mountaineer to supply himself with plenty of good +rope. Enough has been said on this subject in +different parts of the narrative, as well as in +regard to tents. Few other articles are <hi rend='italic'>necessary</hi>, +though many others are <hi rend='italic'>desirable</hi>, to carry +about, and amongst the most important may be +reckoned some simple means of boiling water +and cooking. At considerable altitudes above +the tree-line, it is frequently impossible to carry +up wood enough for a camp-fire, and nothing but +spirits of wine can be employed. The well-known and convenient +so-called <q>Russian furnace</q> is the most compact form of spirit +lamp that I know, and wonders can be effected with one that is only +<pb n='ix'/><anchor id='Pgix'/>three inches in diameter. In conjunction with a +set of tins like those <ref target="fig04">figured here</ref> (which are constructed +to be used either with a wood fire or over +a spirit lamp), all the cooking can be done that the +Alpine tourist requires. For prolonged expeditions +of a serious nature a more elaborate equipage is +necessary; but upon such small ones as are made +in the Alps it would be unnecessarily encumbering +yourself to take a whole <hi rend='italic'>batterie de cuisine</hi>.<note place="foot">In the lower diagram the tins are shown as they appear when +packed for travelling. I generally carry them at the top of a knapsack, +outside.</note> +</p><anchor id="fig04"/> +<figure url="images/illus008.png" rend="w40"><figDesc>Illustration: Cooking tins</figDesc></figure> +<p> +Before passing on to speak of clothing, a word +upon snow-blindness will not be out of place. Very +fine language is sometimes used to express the fact +that persons suffer from their eyes becoming inflamed; +and there is one well-known traveller, at +least, who, when referring to snow-blindness, speaks +habitually of the distressing effects which are produced +by <q>the reverberation of the snow.</q> Snow-blindness +is a malady which touches all mountain-travellers +sooner or later, for it is found impossible +in practice always to protect the eyes with the +goggles which are <ref target="fig05">shown overleaf</ref>. In critical +situations almost every one removes them. The +beginner should, however, note that at great altitudes +it is not safe to leave the eyes unprotected +even on rocks, when the sun is shining brightly; +and upon snow or ice it is indispensable to shade +them in some manner, unless you wish to be +placed <hi rend='italic'>hors de combat</hi> on the next day. Should +you unfortunately find yourself in this predicament +through the intensity of the light, there is no help +but in sulphate of zinc and patience. Of the +former material a half-ounce will be sufficient for +<pb n='x'/><anchor id='Pgx'/>a prolonged campaign, as a lotion compounded with two or three +grains to an ounce of water will give relief; but of patience you +can hardly lay in too large a stock, as a single bad day sometimes +throws a man on his back for +weeks.<note place="foot">I extract from No. 63 of the <hi rend='italic'>Alpine Journal</hi> the following note by Gustav de +Veh, a retired Russian officer, upon the prevention of snow-blindness. <q>We were on +the march home along the mountain plains, when, dazzled by the intense sun-rays +reflected by the endless snow-fields we were marching along, my eyelids lost all +power to open; I felt my elbow touched, and, looking through my fingers, I beheld +one of our friendly highlanders preparing a kind of black paste by mixing gunpowder +with snow. The General told me to let him do what he wanted. The Circassian +applied the black stuff under my eyes, on my cheeks, and to the sides of my nose. +To my astonishment I could then open my eyes, and felt no more difficulty to see +plainly and clearly everything. I have tried that experiment many times since, and +it never failed to relieve me, although I used common Indian-ink and black water-colour, +instead of the above-mentioned paste.</q></note> +</p><anchor id="fig05"/> +<figure url="images/illus009.png" rend="w60"><figDesc>Illustration: Snow spectacles</figDesc></figure> +<p> +The whole face suffers +under the alternation of heat, +cold, and glare, and few +mountain-travellers remain +long without having their +visages blistered and cracked +in all directions. Now, in +respect to this matter, prevention is better than cure; and, though +these inconveniences cannot be entirely escaped, they may, by +taking trouble, be deferred for a long time. As a travelling cap +for mountain expeditions, there is scarcely anything better than +the kind of helmet used by Arctic travellers, and with the eyes +well shaded by its projecting peak and covered with the ordinary +goggles one ought not, and will not, suffer much from snow-blindness. +I have found, however, that it does not sufficiently +shade the face, and that it shuts out sound too much when the +side-flaps are down; and I consequently adopt a woollen headpiece, +which almost entirely covers or shades the face and extends +well downwards on to the shoulders. One hears sufficiently +<pb n='xi'/><anchor id='Pgxi'/>distinctly through the interstices of the knitted wool, and they +also permit some ventilation—which +the Arctic cap does not. It is a useful +rather than an ornamental article of +attire, and strangely affects one’s +appearance. +</p><anchor id="fig06"/> +<figure url="images/illus010a.png" rend="w40"><figDesc>Illustration: Arctic cap</figDesc></figure> +<p> +For the most severe weather even +this is not sufficient, and a mask must +be added to protect the remainder of +the face. You then present the appearance +of the <ref target="fig07">lower woodcut</ref>, and are completely disguised. Your +most intimate friends—even your own mother—will disown you, +and you are a fit subject for endless ridicule. +</p> +<anchor id="fig07"/> +<figure url="images/illus010b.png" rend="w40"><figDesc>Illustration: The complete disguise</figDesc></figure> +<p> +The alternations of heat and cold are rapid and severe in all +high mountain ranges, and it is folly to go about too lightly clad. +Woollen gloves ought always to be in the mountaineer’s pocket, +for in a single hour, or less, he may experience +a fall in temperature of sixty to +eighty degrees. But in respect to the +nature of the clothing there is little to be +said beyond that it should be composed of +flannels and woollens. +</p> + +<p> +Upon the important subject of boots much +might be written. My friends are generally +surprised to find that I use elastic-side +boots whilst mountaineering, and condemn them under the false +impression that they will not give support to the ankles, and will +be pulled off when one is traversing deep snow. I have invariably +used elastic-side boots on my mountain expeditions in the Alps +and elsewhere, and have found that they give sufficient support +to the ankles and never draw off. My Alpine boots have always +been made by Norman—a maker who knows what the requirements +are, and one who will give a good boot if allowed good time. +</p> + +<p> +It is fully as important to have proper nails in the boots as it +<pb n='xii'/><anchor id='Pgxii'/>is to have good boots. The quantity is frequently overdone, and +when there are too many they are absolutely dangerous. Ice-nails, +which may be considered a variety of crampon, are an +abomination. The nails should be neither too large nor too +numerous, and they should be disposed everywhere irregularly—not +symmetrically. They disappear one by one, from time to +time; and the prudent mountaineer continually examines his +boots to see that sufficient numbers are left.<note place="foot">I understand that scarcely any nails wore found in the boots of Dr. Moseley, +who lost his life recently on the Matterhorn, and this fact sufficiently accounts for +the accident.</note> A handkerchief +tied round the foot, or even a few turns of cord, will afford a +tolerable substitute when nails cannot be procured. +</p> + +<p> +If the beginner supplies himself with the articles which have +been named, he will be in possession of all the gear which is +<hi rend='italic'>necessary</hi> for ordinary mountain excursions, and if he uses his +plant properly he will avoid many of the disagreeables which are +looked upon by some as almost unavoidable accompaniments of +the sport of mountaineering. I have not throughout the volume +ignored the dangers which are real and unavoidable, and say +distinctly that too great watchfulness cannot be exercised at great +altitudes. But I say now, as I have frequently said before, that +the great majority of accidents which occur to mountaineers, +especially to mountaineering amateurs in the Alps, are not the +result of unavoidable dangers; and that they are for the most +part the product of ignorance and neglect. I consider that falling +rocks are the greatest danger which a mountaineer is likely to +encounter, and in concluding these prefatory remarks I especially +warn the novice against the things which tumble about the ears +of unwary travellers. +</p> +</div><div rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='xiii'/><anchor id='Pgxiii'/> +<index index="toc" level1="Contents"/><index index="pdf" level1="Contents"/> +<head>CONTENTS.</head> + +<p rend="center">1860</p> + +<p rend="center; large">CHAPTER I.</p> + +<p rend="center">INTRODUCTORY.</p> + +<p rend="small">BEACHY HEAD—DEVIL OF NOTRE DAME—VISP THAL—SCRAMBLING ALONE—THE WEISSHORN—ST. BERNARD—RASCALLY + GUIDE—A VILLAGE CONCERT—STORM ON THE COL DE LAUTARET</p> + <p rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg001">Pages 1-12</ref></p> + +<p rend="center">1861</p> + +<p rend="center; large">CHAPTER II.</p> + +<p rend="center">THE ASCENT OF MONT PELVOUX.</p> + +<p rend="small">THE VALLEYS OF DAUPHINÉ—THE PEAKS OF DAUPHINÉ—MISTAKES IN THEIR +IDENTIFICATION—EARLY ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND MONT PELVOUX—INTRODUCTION +TO MONSIEUR REYNAUD—GRENOBLE—MEETING WITH MACDONALD—NATIONAL SENTIMENTS—WE +ENGAGE A GUIDE—START FOR PELVOUX—PASS THE CAVERN OF +THE VAUDOIS—MASSACRE OF THE VAUDOIS—FIRST NIGHT OUT—WE ARE REPULSED—ARRIVAL +OF MACDONALD—THIRD NIGHT OUT—TORRENTS ON FIRE—FALLING +ROCKS—ASCENT OF THE PELVOUX—THE PYRAMID—VIEW FROM THE +SUMMIT—WE DISCOVER THE POINTE DES ECRINS—SURPRISED BY NIGHT—ON +FLEAS—EN ROUTE FOR MONTE VISO—DESERTERS—CAMP ON AN ANT-HILL—ST. VERAN—PRIMITIVE +MANNERS—NATURAL PILLARS—ARRIVE AT BRIANÇON</p> + <p rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg013">13-41</ref></p> + +<p rend="large; center">CHAPTER III.</p> + +<p rend="center">MY FIRST SCRAMBLE ON THE MATTERHORN.</p> + +<p rend="small">THE WEISSHORN AND THE MATTERHORN—INTRODUCTION TO JEAN-ANTOINE CARREL—SUPERSTITIONS +OF THE NATIVES IN REGARD TO THE MATTERHORN—RIDGES OF +THE MATTERHORN—EARLIEST ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MOUNTAIN—ATTEMPT BY +THE MESSRS. PARKER—ATTEMPT BY MESSRS. HAWKINS AND TYNDALL—ARRIVE AT +<pb n='xiv'/><anchor id='Pgyiv'/>BREIL—UNWILLINGNESS OF THE GUIDES TO HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE +MATTERHORN—THE CARRELS ENDEAVOUR TO CUT US OUT—THE <q>GREAT STAIRCASE</q>—THE +COL DU LION—WE DECIDE TO CAMP THERE—GREAT EXCITEMENT +FROM FALLING STONES—LIGHT AND SHADE—THE <q>CHIMNEY</q>—DEFEATED—A COOL +PROCEEDING</p> +<p rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg042">42-57</ref></p> + +<p rend="center">1862</p> + +<p rend="center; large">CHAPTER IV.</p> + +<p rend="center">RENEWED ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN.</p> + +<p rend="small">MR. KENNEDY’S WINTER ATTEMPT—BENNEN REFUSES TO START AGAIN—THE THÉODULE +PASS—MEYNET, THE HUNCHBACK OF BREIL—ON TENTS FOR MOUNTAINEERING—MACDONALD +AND I START FOR THE MATTERHORN—NARROW ESCAPE OF +KRONIG—VIOLENT WIND TURNS US BACK—ENGAGE CARREL AND PESSION AND +START AGAIN—THE <q>GREAT TOWER</q>—PESSION BECOMES ILL AND WE ARE OBLIGED +TO RETURN—BAD WEATHER—SCRAMBLE ALONE ON THE MATTERHORN—PIONEERS +OF VEGETATION—VIEW FROM THE TENT—A SOLITARY BIVOUAC—MONTE VISO +SEEN BY MOONLIGHT AT NINETY-EIGHT MILES’ DISTANCE—ON AIDS TO CLIMBERS—CLIMBING +CLAW—FIND A NEW PLACE FOR THE TENT—I ATTAIN A GREATER +ALTITUDE ALONE THAN HAD BEEN REACHED BEFORE, AND NEARLY COME TO +GRIEF—MY FOURTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN—DEFEATED AGAIN +BY WEATHER—THE CARRELS GO MARMOT-HUNTING, AND WE START FOR A FIFTH +ATTEMPT—DEFEATED BY NATURAL DIFFICULTIES—TYNDALL ARRIVES AND CARRIES +OFF THE CARRELS—A CANNONADE ON THE MATTERHORN—TYNDALL IS REPULSED—CONFLAGRATION +IN DAUPHINÉ</p> +<p rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg058">58-87</ref></p> + +<p rend="center">1863</p> + +<p rend="center; large">CHAPTER V.</p> + +<p rend="center">THE VAL TOURNANCHE—THE BREUILJOCH—ZERMATT—FIRST +ASCENT OF THE GRAND TOURNALIN.</p> + +<p rend="small">THE DOUANE—<q>BUT WHAT IS THIS?</q>—DIFFICULTIES WITH MY LADDER—EXPLANATION +OF TYNDALL’S REPULSE—ROMAN (?) AQUEDUCT IN THE VAL TOURNANCHE—ASCEND +THE CIMES BLANCHES—WE DECEIVE A GOAT—WE INVENT A NEW PASS TO ZERMATT +(BREUILJOCH)—AQUEOUS AND GLACIER EROSION—GLACIER VERSUS ROCKS—SEILER’S +DISINTERESTEDNESS—THE MATTERHORN CLIFFS—EXTRAORDINARY ACCIDENT +TO A CHAMOIS—COL DE VALPELLINE—THE MASTER OF PRERAYEN—ATTEMPT +TO ASCEND DENT D’ERIN (D’HÉRENS)—THE VA CORNÈRE PASS—FIRST ASCENT OF +THE GRAND TOURNALIN—SPLENDID VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT—ON PANORAMIC +VIEWS—GOUFFRE DES BUSSERAILLES—AN ENTERPRISING INNKEEPER</p> +<p rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg088">88-113</ref></p> + +<pb n='xv'/><anchor id='Pgxv'/> + +<p rend="center; large">CHAPTER VI.</p> + +<p rend="center">OUR SIXTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN.</p> + +<p rend="small">EXTREMES MEET—THUNDER AND LIGHTNING—ECHOES OF THUNDER—GREAT ROCKFALLS +DURING THE NIGHT—DEFEATED BY THE WEATHER—MYSTERIOUS MISTS</p> +<p rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg114">114-123</ref></p> + +<p rend="center">1864</p> + +<p rend="center; large">CHAPTER VII.</p> + +<p rend="center">FROM ST. MICHEL TO LA BÉRARDE BY THE COL DES AIGS. D’ARVE, +COL DE MARTIGNARE, AND THE BRÈCHE DE LA MEIJE.</p> + +<p rend="small">RETURN AGAIN TO DAUPHINÉ—MICHEL CROZ—COL DE VALLOIRES—THE AIGUILLES +D’ARVE—WE MAKE A PASS BETWEEN THEM—COL DE MARTIGNARE—ASCENT OF +THE AIG. DE LA SAUSSE—THE MEIJE—FIRST PASSAGE OF THE BRÈCHE DE LA +MEIJE—MELCHIOR ANDEREGG—LA GRAVE—THE BRÈCHE IS WON—THE VALLON DES +ETANÇONS</p> +<p rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg124">124-144</ref></p> + +<p rend="center; large">CHAPTER VIII.</p> + +<p rend="center">THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE POINTE DES ECRINS.</p> + +<p rend="small">LA BÉRARDE—PIC THE PORTER—BIVOUAC ON THE GLACIER DE LA BONNE PIERRE—DISSOLVING +VIEWS—DRYNESS OF THE AIR—TOPOGRAPHY OF CENTRAL DAUPHINÉ +ALPS—FIRST ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE ECRINS—A MIGHTY AVALANCHE—OUR +ASCENT OF THE FINAL PEAK—ON SPLINTERS FROM SUMMITS—LE JEU NE VAUT +PAS LA CHANDELLE—SHATTERED RIDGE—ALMER’S LEAP—SURPRISED BY NIGHT—A +WARNING</p> +<p rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg145">145-165</ref></p> + +<p rend="center; large">CHAPTER IX.</p> + +<p rend="center">FROM VAL LOUISE TO LA BÉRARDE BY THE COL DE PILATTE.</p> + +<p rend="small">CHALETS OF ENTRAIGUES—ARRIVAL OF REYNAUD—ON SNOW COULOIRS—SUMMIT OF +THE COL—EXCITING DESCENT—REYNAUD COMES OVER THE SCHRUND—THE LAST +OF DAUPHINÉ</p> +<p rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg166">166-175</ref></p> + +<p rend="center; large">CHAPTER X.</p> + +<p rend="center">THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DE TRIOLET, AND FIRST ASCENTS +OF MONT DOLENT, AIGUILLE DE TRÉLATÊTE, AND AIGUILLE +D’ARGENTIÈRE.</p> + +<p rend="small">MAPS OF MONT BLANC—MR. ADAMS-REILLY—OUR COMPACT—THE PEAKS OF THE MONT +BLANC RANGE—ACROSS THE COL DE TRIOLET—A MINIATURE ASCENT—REILLY +<pb n='xvi'/><anchor id='Pgxvi'/>ADVOCATES PATIENCE—BIVOUAC ON MONT SUC—THE FIRST ASCENT OF AIG. +DE TRÉLATÊTE—THE MORAINE OF THE MIAGE—ON MORAINES IN GENERAL—ERRONEOUS +VIEWS RESPECTING THEM—OUR FIRST ATTEMPT TO ASCEND AIG. +D’ARGENTIÈRE—A CONCEALED CAVERN—SUCCESS AT LAST—MR. REILLY’S MAP</p> +<p rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg176">176-192</ref></p> + +<p rend="center; large">CHAPTER XI.</p> + +<p rend="center">THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE MOMING PASS—ZINAL TO ZERMATT.</p> + +<p rend="small">SWISS MENDICANTS—NIGHT ON THE ARPITETTA ALP—A PERILOUS PATH—ICE-AVALANCHE—SUMMIT +OF THE MOMING PASS—CROZ DISTINGUISHES HIMSELF—THE +CLUB-ROOM OF ZERMATT</p> +<p rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg193">193-203</ref></p> + +<p rend="center">1865</p> + +<p rend="center; large">CHAPTER XII.</p> + +<p rend="center">THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE GRAND CORNIER.</p> + +<p rend="small">ON CHOICE OF ROUTES—REGRETS—ZINAL—ASCENT OF THE GRAND CORNIER—EFFECTS +OF SUN AND FROST—GREAT RIDGES SUFFER MOST—POINTS OF DIFFERENCE BETWEEN +ATMOSPHERIC AND GLACIER EROSION—ABRICOLLA</p> +<p rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg204">204-214</ref></p> + +<p rend="center; large">CHAPTER XIII.</p> + +<p rend="center">THE ASCENT OF THE DENT BLANCHE.</p> + +<p rend="small">LESLIE STEPHEN—KENNEDY’S ASCENT—ON BERGSCHRUNDS—UNWELCOME ATTENTIONS—A +RACE FOR LIFE—BENIGHTED—A SURPRISE</p> +<p rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg215">215-222</ref></p> + +<p rend="center; large">CHAPTER XIV.</p> + +<p rend="center">LOST ON THE COL D’HÉRENS—SEVENTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND +THE MATTERHORN—THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE GRANDES +JORASSES.</p> + +<p rend="small">A LATE START AND THE RESULT—BEWILDERED—RETURN TO ABRICOLLA—CROSS COL +D’HÉRENS TO ZERMATT—ASCEND THE THÉODULHORN—NEW IDEAS REGARDING THE +MATTERHORN—DECEPTIVENESS OF THE EAST FACE—STRATIFICATION—DIP OF THE +BEDS—TRY ANOTHER ROUTE—<q>SAUVE QUI PEUT</q>—BEATEN AGAIN—ASCENT OF +THE GRANDES JORASSES—NARROW ESCAPE FROM AN AVALANCHE</p> +<p rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg223">223-238</ref></p> + +<pb n='xvii'/><anchor id='Pgxvii'/> + +<p rend="center; large">CHAPTER XV.</p> + +<p rend="center">THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DOLENT.</p> + +<p rend="small">CONFUSION OF IDEAS—A MIDNIGHT START—SUMMIT OF THE PASS—EXTRAORDINARY +ICE-WALL—MANNER OF ITS DESCENT—ON ICE-AXES AND THEIR USE—ON ICE-SLOPES +AND THEIR SAFETY—CRAMPONS—ARRIVAL AT CHAMOUNIX</p> +<p rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg239">239-246</ref></p> + +<p rend="center; small">CHAPTER XVI.</p> + +<p rend="center">THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE VERTE.</p> + +<p rend="small">CROZ LEAVES US—CHRISTIAN ALMER—SUNSET ON THE MER DE GLACE—ASCENT OF +THE AIGUILLE—ADVICE TO MOUNTAIN WALKERS—VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT—STORMS +COME ON—A WORTHY PORTER—THE NOBLE ATTITUDE OF CHAMOUNIX</p> +<p rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg247">247-254</ref></p> + +<p rend="center; large">CHAPTER XVII.</p> + +<p rend="center">THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DE TALÈFRE.</p> + +<p rend="small">THE COL DU GÉANT—THE GLACIER DE TALÈFRE—EASY WAY FROM CHAMOUNIX +TO COURMAYEUR—GLISSADING—PASSES OVER THE MAIN CHAIN OF MONT +BLANC</p> +<p rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg255">255-258</ref></p> + +<p rend="center; large">CHAPTER XVIII.</p> + +<p rend="center">THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE RUINETTE—THE MATTERHORN.</p> + +<p rend="small">FACILITY WITH WHICH THE RUINETTE CAN BE ASCENDED—NOBLE PANORAMA—ON +CONCEALED CREVASSES—GUIDES’ OBJECTION TO USE OF THE ROPE—ON THE USE +AND ABUSE OF THE ROPE—ALMER DECLINES THE MATTERHORN—ENGAGE THE +CARRELS—THEIR DEFECTION—THE ITALIANS STEAL A MARCH—ARRIVAL OF LORD +FRANCIS DOUGLAS—MEETING WITH CROZ, HUDSON, AND HADOW</p> +<p rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg259">259-272</ref></p> + +<p rend="center; large">CHAPTER XIX.</p> + +<p rend="center">THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN.</p> + +<p rend="small">CHARLES HUDSON—CAMP ON THE EAST FACE—CROZ REPORTS FAVOURABLY—ASCENT +OF THE EASTERN FACE—CROSS TO THE NORTHERN SIDE—ARRIVAL AT SUMMIT—DISCOMFITURE +OF THE ITALIANS—ASTONISHMENT AT BREIL—MARVELLOUS PANORAMA</p> +<p rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg273">273-283</ref></p> + +<pb n='xviii'/><anchor id='Pgyviii'/> + +<p rend="center; large">CHAPTER XX.</p> + +<p rend="center">THE DESCENT OF THE MATTERHORN.</p> + +<p rend="small">ORDER OF THE DESCENT—A FRIGHTFUL AVALANCHE—HADOW SLIPS—DEATH OF CROZ, +HADOW, HUDSON, AND LORD F. DOUGLAS—TERROR OF THE TAUGWALDERS—THE +BROKEN ROPE—AN APPARITION—AN INFAMOUS PROPOSITION—SURPRISED BY NIGHT—SEARCH +FOR AND RECOVERY OF THE BODIES—OFFICIAL EXAMINATION—THE +END</p> +<p rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg284">284-298</ref></p> + +<p rend="center; large">APPENDIX.</p> + + <table rend="tblcolumns: 'lw(60m) r'; latexcolumns: 'p{7.5cm}r'"> + <row> + <cell></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right">PAGE</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell><hi rend='antiqua'>A.</hi> THE DEATH OF BENNEN</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg301">301</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell><hi rend='antiqua'>B.</hi> STRUCK BY LIGHTNING UPON THE MATTERHORN </cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg303">303</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell><hi rend='antiqua'>C.</hi> NOTE ON THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN FRANCE</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg304">304</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell><hi rend='antiqua'>D.</hi> SUBSEQUENT HISTORY OF THE MATTERHORN</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg304">304</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell><hi rend='antiqua'>E.</hi> TABLE OF ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg315">315</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell><hi rend='antiqua'>F.</hi> TABLE OF ASCENTS OF THE MATTERHORN</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg316">316</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell><hi rend='antiqua'>G.</hi> GEOLOGY OF THE MATTERHORN, BY SIG. F. GIORDANO</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg323">323</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell><hi rend='antiqua'>H.</hi> PROFESSOR TYNDALL AND THE MATTERHORN</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="Pg325">325</ref></cell> + </row> + </table> +</div><div rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='xix'/><anchor id='Pgxix'/> +<index index="toc" level1="List of Illustrations"/><index index="pdf" level1="List of Illustrations"/> +<head>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.</head> + +<p rend="small; center"> +The Drawings were made on the Wood by<lb/> +<hi rend='smallcaps'>H. J. Boot</hi>, <hi rend='smallcaps'>Gustave Doré</hi>, <hi rend='smallcaps'>C. Johnson</hi>, <hi rend='smallcaps'>J. Mahoney</hi>, <hi rend='smallcaps'>J. W. North</hi>, <hi rend='smallcaps'>P. Skelton</hi>, <hi rend='smallcaps'>W. G. Smith</hi>, +<hi rend='smallcaps'>C. J. Staniland</hi>, and <hi rend='smallcaps'>J. Wolf</hi>; and were Engraved by <hi rend='smallcaps'>J. W.</hi> and <hi rend='smallcaps'>Edward Whymper</hi>. +</p> + +<p rend="center; large">FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.</p> + +<table rend="tblcolumns: 'r lw(42m) r r'; latexcolumns: 'rp{5cm}rr'"> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">1. </cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'><q>They saw masses of rocks, boulders and stones, big + and little, dart round the corner</q></hi></cell> + <cell rend="center"><hi rend="italic"><ref target="plate01">Frontispiece.</ref></hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">2.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Outlines of the Matterhorn from the North-East and + from the Summit of the Théodule Pass (to show + Ridges, and Points attained on the different attempts + to Ascend the Mountain)</hi></cell> + <cell rend="center"><hi rend="italic">To face page</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="plate02">44</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">3.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Matterhorn, from near the Summit of the Théodule + Pass</hi></cell> + <cell rend="center">„</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="plate03">46</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">4.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'><q>The Chimney</q></hi></cell> + <cell rend="center">„</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="plate04">76</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">5.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'><q>In attempting to pass the corner I slipped and fell</q></hi></cell> + <cell rend="center">„</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="plate05">78</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">6.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>A Cannonade on the Matterhorn (1862)</hi></cell> + <cell rend="center">„</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="plate06">84</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">7.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'><q>They scattered in a panic when saluted by the cries + Of my excited comrade</q></hi></cell> + <cell rend="center">„</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="plate07">107</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">8.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Crags of the Matterhorn, during the Storm, Midnight, + August 10, 1863</hi></cell> + <cell rend="center">„</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="plate08">120</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">9.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Club-Room of Zermatt in 1864</hi></cell> + <cell rend="center">„</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="plate09">202</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">10.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Matterhorn from the Riffelberg</hi></cell> + <cell rend="center">„</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right">227<ref target="plate10"></ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">11.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Sections of the Matterhorn</hi></cell> + <cell rend="center">„</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="plate11">230</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">12.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Fog-bow, seen from the Matterhorn on July 14, 1865</hi></cell> + <cell rend="center">„</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="plate12">288</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">13.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Hut on the Eastern Face (Zermatt side) of the Matterhorn</hi></cell> + <cell rend="center">„</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="plate13">309</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">14.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Geological Section of the Matterhorn</hi></cell> + <cell rend="center">„</cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="plate14">324</ref></cell> + </row></table> + <pb n='xx'/><anchor id='Pgxx'/> + <p rend="center">IN THE TEXT.</p> + <table rend="tblcolumns:'r lw(59m) r'; latexcolumns: 'rp{6.9cm}r'"> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><hi rend="small">PAGE</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">1.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Point of Alpenstock</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig01">vii</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">2.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Birmingham Pick-axe with moveable head</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig02">viii</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">3.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Russian Furnace</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig03">viii</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">4.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Cooking Tins</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig04">ix</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">5.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Snow Spectacles</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig05">x</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">6.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Arctic Cap</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig06">xi</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">7.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Complete Disguise</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig07">xi</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">8.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Beachy Head</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig08">1</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">9.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Devil of Notre Dame</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig09">2</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">10.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Church in Difficulties</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig10">5</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">11.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>At the St. Bernard</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig11">6</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">12.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Village of Biona</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig12">7</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">13.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Crossing Mont Cenis</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig13">9</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">14.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'><q>Garibaldi!</q></hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig14">10</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">15.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>A Bit of the Village of Zermatt</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig15">12</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">16.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Briançon</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig16">13</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">17.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Mont Pelvoux from above La Bessée</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig17">19</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">18.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Grand Pelvoux de Val Louise</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig18">21</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">19.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Buttresses of Mont Pelvoux</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig19">26</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">20.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Portrait of the late R. J. S. Macdonald</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig20">29</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">21.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Outline to show Route up Mont Pelvoux</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig21">31</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">22.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Blanket Bag</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig22">38</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">23.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Natural Pillar near Molines</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig23">40</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">24.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Portrait of the late J. J. Bennen</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig24">48</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">25.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Portrait of Jean-Antoine Carrel</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig25">51</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">26.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Col du Lion: looking towards the Tête du Lion</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig26">53</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">27.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Diagram to show manner of fastening Tent-poles</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig27">62</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">28.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Author’s Mountain Tent</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig28">62</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">29.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Climbing Claw</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig29">72</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">30.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Rope and Ring</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig30">73</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">31.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>At Breil (Giomein)</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig31">79</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">32.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Matterhorn from Breil</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig32">85</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">33.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'><q>But what is this?</q></hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig33">88</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">34.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>An Arch of the Aqueduct in the Val Tournanche</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="ill092">92</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">35.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Water-worn Rocks in the Gorge below the Gorner Glacier</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig35">96</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">36.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Striations produced by Glacier-action</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig36">97</ref></cell> + </row> + <pb n='xxi'/><anchor id='Pgxxi'/><row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">37.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Chamois in Difficulties</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig37">102</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">38.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'><q>Carrel lowered me down</q></hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig38">108</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">39.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Portrait of the late Canon Carrel of Aosta</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig39">109</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">40.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Portrait of Monsieur Favre</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig40">121</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">41.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Crossing the Channel</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig41">123</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">42.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Portrait of the late Michel-Auguste Croz</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig42">125</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">43.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Plan to show Route</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="ill128">128</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">44.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Aiguilles d’Arve, from above the Chalets of Rieu Blanc</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig44">130</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">45.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Portrait of Melchior Anderegg</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig45">138</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">46.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Map of the Brèche de la Meije, etc.</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig46">140</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">47.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Diagram to show Angle of Summit of Meije, etc.</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig47">142</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">48.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Vallon des Etançons</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig48">143</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">49.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Map of the Central Dauphiné Alps</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig49">146</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">50.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Pointe des Ecrins from the Col du Galibier</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig50">155</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">51.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Outline to show Route up Pointe des Ecrins</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig51">156</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">52.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Fragment from the Summit of the Pointe des Ecrins</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig52">159</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">53.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>A Night with Croz</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig53">164</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">54.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>A Snow Couloir</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig54">169</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">55.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet Day</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig55">184</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">56.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Our Camp on Mont Suc</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig56">185</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">57.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Ice-Avalanche on the Moming Pass</hi> </cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig57">198</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">58.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Summit of the Moming Pass</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig58">200</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">59.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Facsimile of a Letter From Croz</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig59">208</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">60.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Part of the Southern Ridge of the Grand Cornier</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig60">210</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">61.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Part of the Northern Ridge of the Grand Cornier</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig61">211</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">62.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Portrait of Leslie Stephen</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig62">215</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">63.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Bergschrund on the Dent Blanche</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig63">217</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">64.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Portrait of T. S. Kennedy</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig64">222</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">65.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Diagrams to Show Dip of Strata on the Matterhorn</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig65">229</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">66.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>My Tent-bearer—The Hunchback</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig66">234</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">67.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Grandes Jorasses and the Doire Torrent</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig67">237</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">68.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Summit of the Col Dolent</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig68">241</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">69.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>My Ice-axe</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig69">243</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">70.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Kennedy Ice-axe</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig70">244</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">71.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Leslie Stephen Ice-axe</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig71">244</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">72.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Crampon</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="ill245">245</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">73.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Portrait of Christian Almer</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig73">248</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">74.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>On the Mer de Glace</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig74">249</ref></cell> + </row> + <pb n='xxii'/><anchor id='Pgxxii'/><row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">75.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Western Side of the Col de Talèfre</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig75">255</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">76.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Glissading</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig76">257</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">77.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Wrong Way to use a Rope on Glacier</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="ill263">263</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">78.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Right Way to use a Rope on Glacier</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig78">264</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">79.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'><q>Croz! Croz!! Come Here!</q></hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig79">279</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">80.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Summit of the Matterhorn in 1865</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig80">281</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">81.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Actual Summit of the Matterhorn</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig81">284</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">82.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Rope broken on the Matterhorn</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig82">287</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">83.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Diagram of Fog-bow</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="ill289">289</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">84.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>Portrait of Monsieur Alex. Seiler</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig84">290</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">85.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Manilla Rope broken on the Matterhorn</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig85">292</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">86.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The <q>Second</q> Rope broken on the Matterhorn</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig86">293</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">87.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The English Church at Zermatt</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig87">294</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">88.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The End</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig88">298</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">89.</cell> + <cell><hi rend="smallcaps">The Chapel at the Schwarzsee</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig89">310</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">90.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'>The Summit of the Matterhorn in 1874 (Northern End)</hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="fig90">311</ref></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">91.</cell> + <cell><hi rend='smallcaps'><q>The things which tumble about the ears of unwary travellers</q></hi></cell> + <cell rend="text-align: right"><ref target="ill325">325</ref></cell> + </row> +</table> + +<p rend="center">MAPS.</p> + +<p rend="center"> +<hi rend='italic'>To be placed at the end of the Volume.</hi> +</p> + +<p rend="center"><ref target="map1">1.</ref> <hi rend='smallcaps'>The Matterhorn and its Glaciers</hi> (<hi rend='italic'>in colours</hi>).</p> + +<p rend="center"><ref target="map2">2.</ref> <hi rend='smallcaps'>The Valley of Zermatt; and the Central Pennine Alps.</hi></p> + +<p rend="center; small; margin-top: 2"> +The body of the work has been printed by Messrs. <hi rend='smallcaps'>William Clowes and Sons</hi>; and the separate +Plates have been printed by the <hi rend='smallcaps'>Author</hi>. +</p> + + </div> +</front> +<body rend="page-break-before: always"> + <pb/><anchor id='Pgxxiii'/> + +<p rend="font-size: xx-large; center"> +THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN +</p> + +<pb/><anchor id='Pgxxiv'/> +<pb n='1'/><anchor id='Pg001'/> + <anchor id="fig08"/> +<pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: BEACHY HEAD.]</p> + </then> + <else> + <p rend="page-break-before: always"><figure url="images/illus024.jpg" rend="w80"><head rend="ill">BEACHY HEAD.</head><figDesc>Illustration: Beachy Head</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> + <div type="chapter"> +<index index="toc" level1="Chapter I"/><index index="pdf" level1="Chapter I"/> + <head>CHAPTER I.</head> + +<p> +On the 23d of July 1860, I started for my first tour in the Alps. +As we steamed out into the Channel, Beachy Head came into view, +and recalled a scramble of many years ago. With the impudence +of ignorance, my brother<note place="foot">The author of <hi rend='italic'>Travels in Alaska</hi>.</note> and I, schoolboys both, had tried to scale +that great chalk cliff. Not the head itself—where sea-birds circle, +and where the flints are ranged so orderly in parallel lines—but at +a place more to the east, where the pinnacle called the Devil’s +Chimney had fallen down. Since that time we have been often in +dangers of different kinds, but never have we more nearly broken +our necks than upon that occasion. +</p> + +<p> +In Paris I made two ascents. The first to the seventh floor of +<pb n='2'/><anchor id='Pg002'/>a house in the Quartier Latin—to an artist friend, who was engaged, +at the moment of my entry, in combat with a little Jew. He +hurled him with great good-will, and with considerable force, into +some of his crockery, and then recommended me to go up the +towers of Notre Dame. Half-an-hour later I stood on the parapet +of the great west front, by the side of +the leering fiend which for centuries +has looked down upon the great city, +and then took rail to Switzerland; +saw the sunlight lingering on the +giants of the Oberland; heard the +echoes from the cow-horns in the +Lauterbrunnen valley and the avalanches +rattling off the Jungfrau; +and crossed the Gemmi into the +Valais. +</p> +<anchor id="fig09"/> +<pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE DEVIL OF NOTRE DAME.]</p> +</then> +<else> + <p><figure url="images/illus025.png" rend="w40"><head rend="ill">THE DEVIL OF NOTRE DAME.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: The devil of Notre Dame</figDesc></figure></p> +</else></pgIf> +<p> +I was bound for the valley of +Saas, and my work took me high up the Alps on either side; far +beyond the limit of trees and the tracks of tourists. The view +from the slopes of the Weissmies, on the eastern side of the +valley, 5000 or 6000 feet above the village of Saas, is perhaps the +finest of its kind in the Alps. The full height of the three-peaked +Mischabel (the highest mountain in Switzerland) is seen at one +glance; 11,000 feet of dense forests, green alps, rocky pinnacles, +and glittering glaciers. The peaks seemed to me then to be +hopelessly inaccessible from this direction. +</p> + +<p> +I next descended the valley to the village of Stalden, and +went up the Visp Thal to Zermatt, and stopped there several days. +Numerous traces of the formidable earthquake-shocks of five years +before still remained; particularly at St. Nicholas, where the inhabitants +had been terrified beyond measure at the destruction of +their churches and houses. At this place, as well as at Visp, a +large part of the population was obliged to live under canvas for +several months. It is remarkable that there was hardly a life lost +<pb n='3'/><anchor id='Pg003'/>on this occasion, although there were about fifty shocks, some of +which were very severe. +</p> + +<p> +At Zermatt I wandered in many directions, but the weather +was bad, and my work was much retarded. One day, after spending +a long time in attempts to sketch near the Hörnli, and in futile +endeavours to seize the forms of the peaks as they for a few seconds +peered out from above the dense banks of woolly clouds, I determined +not to return to Zermatt by the usual path, and to cross the +Gorner glacier to the Riffel hotel. After a rapid scramble over the +polished rocks and snowbeds which skirt the base of the Théodule +glacier, and wading through some of the streams which flow from +it, at that time much swollen by the late rains, the first difficulty +was arrived at, in the shape of a precipice about three hundred +feet high. It seemed that it would be easy enough to cross the +glacier if the cliff could be descended; but higher up, and lower +down, the ice appeared, to my inexperienced eyes, to be impassable +for a single person. The general contour of the cliff was nearly +perpendicular, but it was a good deal broken up, and there was little +difficulty in descending by zigzagging from one mass to another. +At length there was a long slab, nearly smooth, fixed at an angle of +about forty degrees between two wall-sided pieces of rock. Nothing, +except the glacier, could be seen below. It was an awkward place, +but I passed it at length by lying across the slab, putting the +shoulders stiffly against one side, and the feet against the other, +and gradually wriggling down, by first moving the legs and then +the back. When the bottom of the slab was gained a friendly +crack was seen, into which the point of the baton could be stuck, +and I dropped down to the next piece. It took a long time coming +down that little bit of cliff, and for a few seconds it was satisfactory +to see the ice close at hand. In another moment a second difficulty +presented itself. The glacier swept round an angle of the +cliff, and as the ice was not of the nature of treacle or thin putty, +it kept away from the little bay, on the edge of which I stood. +We were not widely separated, but the edge of the ice was higher +<pb n='4'/><anchor id='Pg004'/>than the opposite edge of rock; and worse, the rock was covered +with loose earth and stones which had fallen from above. All +along the side of the cliff, as far as could be seen in both +directions, the ice did not touch it, but there was this marginal +crevasse, seven feet wide, and of unknown depth. +</p> + +<p> +All this was seen at a glance, and almost at once I concluded +that I could not jump the crevasse, and began to try along the cliff +lower down; but without success, for the ice rose higher and higher, +until at last further progress was stopped by the cliffs becoming +perfectly smooth. With an axe it would have been possible to cut +up the side of the ice; without one I saw there was no alternative +but to return and face the jump. +</p> + +<p> +Night was approaching, and the solemn stillness of the High +Alps was broken only by the sound of rushing water or of falling +rocks. If the jump should be successful,—well; if not, I +fell into that horrible chasm, to be frozen in, or drowned in that +gurgling, rushing water. Everything depended on that jump. +Again I asked myself, <q>Can it be done?</q> It <hi rend='italic'>must</hi> be. So, finding +my stick was useless, I threw it and the sketch-book to the ice, and +first retreating as far as possible, ran forward with all my might, +took the leap, barely reached the other side, and fell awkwardly +on my knees. +</p> + +<p> +The glacier was crossed without further trouble, but the Riffel,<note place="foot">The Riffel hotel (the starting-point for the ascent of Monte Rosa), a deservedly +popular inn, leased to Monsieur Seiler, the hotel proprietor of Zermatt, is placed at a +height of 3100 feet above that village (8400 above the sea), and commands a superb +panoramic view. The house has continually grown, and it can now accommodate a +large number of persons. In 1879, it was connected by telegraph with the rest of +Switzerland.</note> +which was then a very small building, was crammed with tourists, +and could not take me in. As the way down was unknown to me, +some of the people obligingly suggested getting a man at the +chalets, otherwise the path would be certainly lost in the forest. +On arriving at the chalets no man could be found, and the lights +<pb n='5'/><anchor id='Pg005'/>of Zermatt, shining through the trees, seemed to say, <q>Never +mind a guide, but come along down, I’ll show you the way;</q> so +off I went through the forest, going straight towards them. The +path was lost in a moment, and was never recovered. I was tripped +up by pine-roots, tumbled over rhododendron bushes, fell over +rocks. The night was pitch dark, and after a time the lights of +Zermatt became obscure, or went out altogether. By a series of +slides, or falls, or evolutions more or less disagreeable, the descent +through the forest was at length accomplished; but torrents of +formidable character had still to be passed before one could arrive +at Zermatt. I felt my way about for hours, almost hopelessly; by +an exhaustive process at last discovering a bridge, and about midnight, +covered with dirt and scratches, re-entered the inn which I +had quitted in the morning. +</p><anchor id="fig10"/> +<figure url="images/illus028.png" rend="w40"><figDesc>Illustration: The church in difficulties</figDesc></figure> +<p> +Others besides tourists get into difficulties. A day or two afterwards, +when on the way to my old station, +near the Hörnli, I met a stout curé who +had essayed to cross the Théodule pass. +His strength or his wind had failed, and +he was being carried down, a helpless +bundle and a ridiculous spectacle, on the +back of a lanky guide; while the peasants +stood by, with folded hands, their reverence +for the church almost overcome by +their sense of the ludicrous. +</p> + +<p> +I descended the valley, diverging from the path at Randa to +mount the slopes of the Dom,<note place="foot">The highest of the Mischabelhörner.</note> in order to see the Weisshorn face +to face. The latter mountain is the noblest in Switzerland, and +from this direction it looks especially magnificent. On its north +there is a large snowy plateau that feeds the glacier of which a +portion is seen from Randa, and which on more than one occasion +has destroyed that village. From the direction of the Dom (that +<pb n='6'/><anchor id='Pg006'/>is, immediately opposite) this Bies glacier seems to descend +nearly vertically. It does not do so, although it is very steep. +Its size is much less than formerly, and the lower portion, now +divided into three tails, clings in a strange, weird-like manner to +the cliffs, to which it seems scarcely possible that it can remain +attached. +</p><anchor id="fig11"/> +<figure url="images/illus029.png" rend="w40"><figDesc>Illustration: At the St. Bernard</figDesc></figure> +<p> +Arriving once more in the <sic>Rhone</sic> valley, I proceeded to +Viesch, and from thence ascended the Eggischorn; on which +unpleasant eminence I lost my way in a fog, and my temper +shortly afterwards. Then, after crossing the Grimsel in a severe +thunderstorm, passed on to Brienz, Interlachen, and Bern; and +thence to Fribourg and Morat, Neuchâtel, Martigny, and the St. +Bernard. The massive walls of the convent were a welcome sight +as I waded through the snow-beds near the summit of the pass, +and pleasant also was the courteous salutation +of the brother who bade me enter. He +wondered at the weight of my knapsack, and +I at the hardness of his bread. The saying +that the monks make the toast in the winter +that they give to tourists in the following +season is not founded on truth; the winter +is their most busy time of the year. But it +<hi rend='italic'>is</hi> true they have exercised so much hospitality, +that at times they have not possessed +the means to furnish the fuel for heating +their chapel in the winter.<note place="foot">The temperature at the St. Bernard in the winter is frequently 40° Fahr. below +freezing-point. January is their coldest month. See +Dollfus-Ausset’s <hi rend='italic'>Matériaux +pour l’étude des Glaciers</hi>, vols. vi. and vii.</note> +</p> + +<p> +Instead of descending to Aosta, I turned aside into the Val +Pelline, in order to obtain views of the Dent d’Erin. The night +had come on before Biona was gained, and I had to knock long +and loud upon the door of the curé’s house before it was opened. +An old woman, with querulous voice, and with a large goître, +<pb n='7'/><anchor id='Pg007'/>answered the summons, and demanded rather sharply what was +wanted; but became pacific—almost good-natured—when a five-franc +piece was held in her face, and she heard that lodging and +supper were requested in exchange. +</p><anchor id="fig12"/> +<pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE VILLAGE OF BIONA.]</p> +</then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus030.png" rend="w80"><head rend="ill">THE VILLAGE OF BIONA.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: The village of Biona</figDesc></figure></p> +</else></pgIf> +<p> +My directions asserted that a passage existed from Prerayen, at +the head of this valley, to Breil,<note place="foot">There was not a pass between Prerayen and Breil. See <ref target="note105">note to p. 105</ref>.</note> in the Val Tournanche, and the +old woman, now convinced of my respectability, busied herself to +find a guide. Presently she introduced a native, picturesquely +attired in high-peaked hat, braided jacket, scarlet waistcoat, and +<pb n='8'/><anchor id='Pg008'/>indigo pantaloons, who agreed to take me to the village of Val +Tournanche. We set off early on the next morning, and got to the +summit of the pass without difficulty. It gave me my first experience +of considerable slopes of hard steep snow, and, like all beginners, +I endeavoured to prop myself up with my stick, and kept it +<hi rend='italic'>outside</hi>, instead of holding it between myself and the slope, and +leaning upon it, as should have been done. The man enlightened +me; but he had, properly, a very small opinion of his employer, +and it is probably on that account that, a few minutes after we had +passed the summit, he said he would not go any further and would +return to Biona. All argument was useless; he stood still, and to +everything that was said answered nothing but that he would go +back. Being rather nervous about descending some long snow-slopes, +which still intervened between us and the head of the +valley, I offered more pay, and he went on a little way. Presently +there were some cliffs down which we had to scramble. He called +to me to stop, then shouted that he would go back, and beckoned +to me to come up. On the contrary, I waited for him to come +down; but instead of doing so, in a second or two he turned round, +clambered deliberately up the cliff, and vanished. I supposed it +was only a ruse to extort offers of more money, and waited for half-an-hour, +but he did not appear again. This was rather embarrassing, +for he carried off my knapsack. The choice of action lay +between chasing him and going on to Breil, risking the loss of my +knapsack. I chose the latter course, and got to Breil the same +evening. The landlord of the inn, suspicious of a person entirely +innocent of luggage, was doubtful if he could admit me, and +eventually thrust me into a kind of loft, which was already +occupied by guides and by hay. In later years we became good +friends, and he did not hesitate to give credit and even to advance +considerable sums. +</p> + +<p> +My sketches from Breil were made under difficulties, for my +materials had been carried off. Nothing better than fine sugar-paper +could be obtained, and the pencils seemed to contain more +<pb n='9'/><anchor id='Pg009'/>silica than plumbago. However, they <hi rend='italic'>were</hi> made, and the + pass<note place="foot">This pass is called usually the Va Cornère. It is also known as the Gra +Cornère; which is, I believe, patois for Grand Cornier. It is mentioned in the first +volume of the second series of <hi rend='italic'>Peaks, Passes, and Glaciers</hi>, and in + Chapters <ref target="Pg088">V.</ref> and +<ref target="Pg259">XVIII.</ref> of this volume.</note> +was again crossed, this time alone. By the following evening +the old woman of Biona again produced the faithless guide. The +knapsack was recovered after the lapse of several hours, and then +I poured forth all the terms of abuse and reproach of which I was +master. The man smiled when called a liar, and shrugged his +shoulders when referred to as a thief, but drew his knife when +spoken of as a pig. +</p><anchor id="fig13"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: CROSSING MONT CENIS.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus032.png" rend="w80"><head rend="ill">CROSSING MONT CENIS.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: Crossing Mont Cenis</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +The following night was spent at Courmayeur, and the day after +I crossed the Col Ferret to Orsières, and on the next the Tête +Noire to Chamounix. The Emperor Napoleon arrived on the same +day, and access to the Mer de Glace was refused to tourists; but, +by scrambling along the Plan des Aiguilles, I managed to outwit +the guards, and to arrive at the Montanvert as the Imperial party +<pb n='10'/><anchor id='Pg010'/>was leaving: the same afternoon failing to get to the Jardin, but +very nearly succeeding in breaking a leg by dislodging great rocks +on the moraine of the glacier. +</p><anchor id="fig14"/> +<pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: <q>GARIBALDI!</q>]</p> +</then> +<else> +<p><figure url="images/illus033.png" rend="w100"><head rend="ill"><q>GARIBALDI!</q></head> +<figDesc>Illustration: Garibaldi!</figDesc></figure></p> +</else></pgIf> +<p> +From Chamounix I went to Geneva, and thence by the Mont +Cenis to Turin and to the Vaudois valleys. A long and weary day +had ended when Paesana was reached. The inn was full, and I +was tired, and about to go to bed, when some village stragglers +entered and began to sing. They sang to Garibaldi! The tenor, +a ragged fellow, whose clothes were not worth a shilling, took the +lead with wonderful expression and feeling. The others kept their +places, and sang in admirable time. For hours I sat enchanted; +and, long after I retired, the sound of their melody could be +heard, relieved at times by the treble of the girl who belonged +to the inn. +</p> + +<p> +The next morning I passed the little lakes, which are the +sources of the Po, on my way into France. The weather was +stormy, and misinterpreting the patois of some natives—who in +reality pointed out the right way—I missed the track, and found +myself under the cliffs of Monte Viso. A gap that was occasionally +seen, in the ridge connecting it with the mountains to +the east, tempted me up; and, after a battle with a snow-slope of +excessive steepness, I reached the summit. The scene was extraordinary, +and, in my experience, unique. To the north there was +<pb n='11'/><anchor id='Pg011'/>not a particle of mist, and the violent wind coming from that +direction blew one back staggering. But on the side of Italy, the +valleys were completely filled with dense masses of cloud to a +certain level; and there—where they felt the influence of the +wind—they were cut off as level as the top of a table, the ridges +appearing above them. +</p> + +<p> +I raced down to Abries, and went on through the gorge of the +Guil to Mont Dauphin. The next day found me at La Bessée, at +the junction of the Val Louise with the valley of the Durance, in +full view of Mont Pelvoux; and by chance I walked into a cabaret +where a Frenchman was breakfasting, who, a few days before, had +made an unsuccessful attempt to ascend that mountain with three +Englishmen and the guide Michel Croz of Chamounix;<note place="foot">I had been sent to the Val Louise to illustrate this ascent.</note> a right +good fellow, by name Jean Reynaud. +</p> + +<p> +The same night I slept at Briançon, intending to take the +courier on the following day to Grenoble; but all places had been +secured several days beforehand, so I set out at two <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> on the +next day for a seventy-mile walk. The weather was again bad; +and on the summit of the Col de Lautaret I was forced to seek +shelter in the wretched little hospice. It was filled with workmen +who were employed on the road, and with noxious vapours +which proceeded from them. The inclemency of the weather was +preferable to the inhospitality of the interior. Outside, it was +disagreeable, but grand; inside, it was disagreeable and mean.<note place="foot">Since that time a decent house has been built on the summit of this pass. The +old vaulted hospice was erected for the benefit of the pilgrims who formerly crossed +the pass <hi rend='italic'>en route</hi> for Rome.—Joanne’s <hi rend='italic'>Itinéraire du Dauphiné</hi>.</note> +The walk was continued under a deluge of rain, and I felt the +way down—so intense was the darkness—to the village of La +Grave, where the people of the inn detained me forcibly. It was +perhaps fortunate that they did so; for, during that night, blocks +of rock fell at several places from the cliffs on to the road with +such force that they made large pits in the macadam. I resumed +<pb n='12'/><anchor id='Pg012'/>the walk at half-past five the next morning, and proceeded, under +steady rain, through Bourg d’Oysans to Grenoble, arriving at the +latter place soon after seven <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi>, having accomplished the entire +distance from Briançon in about eighteen hours of actual walking. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +This was the end of the Alpine portion of my tour of 1860, on +which I was introduced to the great peaks, and acquired the passion +for mountain-scrambling, the development of which is described in +the following chapters. +</p><anchor id="fig15"/> +<pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: A BIT OF THE VILLAGE OF ZERMATT.]</p> +</then><else> +<p><figure url="images/illus035.jpg" rend="w80"><head rend="ill">A BIT OF THE VILLAGE OF ZERMATT.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: A bit of the village of Zermatt</figDesc></figure></p> +</else></pgIf> +<pb n='13'/><anchor id='Pg013'/> +<anchor id="fig16"/> +<pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: BRIANÇON.]</p> +</then><else> + <p rend="page-break-before: always"><figure url="images/illus036.jpg" rend="w100"><head rend="ill">BRIANÇON.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: Briançon</figDesc></figure></p> +</else></pgIf> +</div><div type="chapter"> +<index index="toc" level1="Chapter II. The ascent of Mont Pelvoux"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Chapter II. The ascent of Mont Pelvoux"/> +<head>CHAPTER II.</head> + +<head type="sub">THE ASCENT OF MONT PELVOUX.</head> + +<epigraph> +<lg><l><q>Thus fortune on our first endeavour smiles.</q></l> +<l rend="margin-left: 20"><hi rend='smallcaps'>Virgil.</hi></l></lg> +</epigraph> + +<p> +The district of which Mont Pelvoux and the neighbouring summits +are the culminating points,<note place="foot">See the <ref target="fig49">Map in Chap. VIII</ref>.</note> is, both historically and topographically, +one of the most interesting in the Alps. As the nursery and +the home of the Vaudois, it has claims to permanent attention. +The names of Waldo and of Neff will be remembered when men +<pb n='14'/><anchor id='Pg014'/>more famous in their time will be forgotten; and the memory of +the heroic courage and the simple piety of their disciples will +endure as long as history lasts. +</p> + +<p> +This district contains the highest summits in France, and some +of its finest scenery. It has not perhaps the beauties of Switzerland, +but has charms of its own; its cliffs, its torrents, and its +gorges are unsurpassed; its deep and savage valleys present +pictures of grandeur, and even sublimity, and it is second to none +in the boldness of its mountain forms. +</p> + +<p> +The district includes a mass of valleys which vie with each +other in singularity of character and dissimilarity of climate. Some +the rays of the sun can never reach, they are so deep and narrow.<note place="foot">The depth of the valleys is so great that the sun not only is not seen for more +than a few hours per day during the greatest portion of the year, but in some places—at +Villard d’Arène and at Andrieux for example—it is not seen at all for one +hundred days.—Lodoucette’s <hi rend='italic'>Hautes-Alpes</hi>, p. 599.</note> +In others the very antipodes may be found; the temperature more +like that of the plains of Italy than of Alpine France. This great +range of climate has a marked effect on the flora of these valleys. +Sterility reigns in some; stones take the place of trees; débris and +mud replace plants and flowers: in others, in the space of a few +miles, one passes vines, apple, pear, and cherry trees, the birch, +alder, walnut, ash, larch, and pine, alternating with fields of rye, +barley, oats, beans, and potatoes. +</p> + +<p> +The valleys are for the most part short and erratic. They are +not, apparently, arranged on any definite plan. They are not disposed, +as is frequently the case elsewhere, either at right angles +to, or parallel with, the highest summits; but they wander hither +and thither, take one direction for a few miles, then double back, +and then perhaps resume their original course. Thus, long perspectives +are rarely to be seen, and it is difficult to form a general +idea of the disposition of the peaks. +</p> + +<p> +The highest summits are arranged almost in a horse-shoe form. +The highest of all, which occupies a central position, is the Pointe +<pb n='15'/><anchor id='Pg015'/>des Ecrins; the second in height, the Meije,<note place="foot">Sometimes called the Aiguille du Midi de la Grave, or the Aiguille de la Medje.</note> is on the north; and +the Mont Pelvoux, which gives its name to the entire block, stands +almost detached by itself on the outside. +</p> + +<p> +The district is still very imperfectly known; there are probably +many valleys, and there are certainly many summits which have +never been trodden by the feet of tourists or travellers; but in 1861 +it was even less known. Until quite recently there was, practically, +no map of it;<note place="foot">The maps of the Dauphiné Alps to Ball’s <hi rend='italic'>Guide to the Western Alps</hi>, and to +Joanne’s <hi rend='italic'>Itinéraire du Dauphiné</hi>, must be excepted. These maps are, however, on +too small a scale for travelling purposes.</note> General Bourcet’s, which was the best that was published, +was completely wrong in its delineation of the mountains, +and was frequently incorrect in regard to paths or roads. +</p> + +<p> +The mountainous regions of Dauphiné, moreover, are not +supplied, like Switzerland, Tyrol, or even the Italian valleys, with +accommodation for travellers. The inns, when they exist, are often +filthy beyond description; rest is seldom obtained in their beds, or +decent food found in their kitchens, and there are no local guides +worth having. The tourist is thrown very much on his own +resources, and it is not therefore surprising that these districts +are less visited and less known than the rest of the Alps. +</p> + +<p> +Most of the statements current in 1861 respecting these mountains +had been derived from two authors<note place="foot"><p><q>Faits pour servir à l’Histoire des Montagnes de l’Oisans,</q> by Elie de Beaumont, +in the <hi rend='italic'>Annales des Mines</hi>. +</p> + +<p> +<hi rend='italic'>Norway and its Glaciers; followed by Excursions in the High Alps of Dauphiné.</hi> +By J. D. Forbes. +</p> + +<p> +The following works also treat more or less of the districts referred to in this +chapter:— +</p> +<list type="simple"> + <item><hi rend='italic'>Outline Sketches in the High Alps of Dauphiné</hi>, by T. G. Bonney.</item> + <item> +<hi rend='italic'>Histoire des Hautes-Alpes</hi>, by J. C. F. Ladoucette. +</item> + +<item> +<hi rend='italic'>Itinéraire du Dauphiné</hi>, by Adolphe Joanne (2nd part). +</item> + +<item> +<hi rend='italic'>Tour du Monde, 1860</hi>, edited by Ed. Charton. +</item> + +<item> +<hi rend='italic'>The Israel of the Alps</hi>, by Alexis Muston. +</item> + +<item> +<hi rend='italic'>A Memoir of Felix Neff</hi>, by W. S. Gilly. +</item> +</list> +<p> +Good pictures of Dauphiné scenery are to be found in <hi rend='italic'>Voyages Pittoresques dans +l’ancienne France</hi>, by Ch. Nodier, J. Taylor, and A. de Cailleux, and in Lord Monson’s +<hi rend='italic'>Views in the Departments of the Isère and the High Alps</hi>.</p></note>—M. Elie de Beaumont +<pb n='16'/><anchor id='Pg016'/>and the late Principal J. D. Forbes. Their works, however, contained +numerous errors in regard to the identification of the peaks, +and, amongst others, they referred the supremacy to the Mont +Pelvoux, the highest point of which they termed the Pointe des +Arcines, or des Ecrins. Principal Forbes erroneously identified the +high peak seen from the valley of St. Christophe, with that seen +from the valley of the Durance, and spoke of both as the Mont +Pelvoux, and M. de Beaumont committed similar mistakes. In +point of fact, at the time when M. de Beaumont and Forbes wrote +their respective memoirs, the proper relation of the Mont Pelvoux +to the neighbouring summits had been determined by the engineers +employed on the survey for the map of France, but their observations +were not then accessible to the public, although they had +evidently been seen by M. de Beaumont. This party of surveyors, +led by Captain Durand, made the ascent of Mont Pelvoux from the +side of the Val d’Ailefroide—that is, from the direction of Val +Louise—in 1828. According to the natives of the Val Louise, they +got to the top of the second peak in height, and remained upon it, +lodged in a tent for several days, at a height of 12,904 feet. They +took numerous porters to carry wood for fires, and erected a large +cairn on the summit, which has caused the name of Pic de la +Pyramide to be given to their summit. +</p> + +<p> +In 1848, M. Puiseux made the ascent from the same direction, +but his Val Louisan guide stopped short of the summit, and allowed +this courageous astronomer to proceed by himself.<note place="foot">M. Puiseux took for guide a man named Pierre Bornéoud, of Claux in the Val +Louise; who had accompanied Captain Durand in 1828. In 1861, the expedition of +M. Puiseux was quite forgotten in the Val Louise. I am indebted to M. Puiseux for +the above and other details.</note> +</p> + +<p> +In the middle of August 1860, Messrs. Bonney, Hawkshaw, +and Mathews, with Michel Croz of Chamounix, tried to ascend the +Pelvoux, likewise from the same direction. These gentlemen spent +<pb n='17'/><anchor id='Pg017'/>several days and nights upon the mountain; and, encountering bad +weather, only attained a height of 10,430 feet. +</p> + +<p> +M. Jean Reynaud, of whom mention has been made in the preceding +chapter, accompanied the party of Mr. Mathews, and he +was of opinion that the attempt had been made too late in the +season. He said that the weather was usually good enough for +high mountain ascents <hi rend='italic'>only</hi> during the last few days of July, and +the first ones of August,<note place="foot">This is a common saying in Dauphiné. It means that there is usually less +snow on the mountains during these days than at any other time of the year. The +natives have an almost childish dread of venturing upon snow or glaciers, and hence +the period of minimum snow seems to them to be the most favourable time for +excursions.</note> and suggested that we should attempt to +ascend the mountain in the following year at that time. The proposition +was a tempting one, and Reynaud’s cordial and modest +manner made it irresistible, although there seemed small chance +that we should succeed where a party such as that of Mr. Mathews +had been beaten. +</p> + +<p> +At the beginning of July 1861, I despatched to Reynaud from +Havre, blankets (which were taxed as <q>prohibited fabrics</q>), rope, +and other things desirable for the excursion, and set out on the +tour of France; but, four weeks later, at Nîmes, found myself +completely collapsed by the heat, then 94° Faht. in the shade, and +took a night train at once to Grenoble. +</p> + +<p> +Grenoble is a town upon which a volume might be written. +Its situation is probably the finest of any in France, and the views +from its high forts are superb. I lost my way in the streets of +this picturesque and noisome town, and having but a half-hour +left in which to get a dinner and take a place in the diligence, was +not well pleased to hear that an Englishman wished to see me. +It turned out to be my friend Macdonald, who confided to me that +he was going to try to ascend a mountain called Pelvoux in the +course of ten days. On hearing of my intentions, he agreed to +join us at La Bessée on the 3rd of August. In a few moments +<pb n='18'/><anchor id='Pg018'/>more I was perched in the banquette <hi rend='italic'>en route</hi> for Bourg d’Oysans, +in a miserable vehicle which took nearly eight hours to accomplish +less than 30 miles. +</p> + +<p> +At five on a lovely morning I shouldered my knapsack and +started for Briançon. Gauzy mists clung to the mountains, but +melted away when touched by the sun, and disappeared by jerks +(in the manner of views when focussed in a magic lantern), revealing +the wonderfully bent and folded strata in the limestone +cliffs behind the town. Then I entered the Combe de Malval, and +heard the Romanche eating its way through that wonderful gorge, +and passed on to Le Dauphin, where the first glacier came into +view, tailing over the mountain-side on the right. From this place +until the summit of the Col de Lautaret was passed, every gap in +the mountains showed a glittering glacier or a soaring peak; the +finest view was at La Grave, where the Meije rises by a series of +tremendous precipices 8000 feet above the road.<note place="foot">See <ref target="Pg145">Chapter VII</ref>.</note> The finest distant +view of the pass is seen after crossing the Col, near Monêtier. +A mountain, commonly supposed to be Monte Viso, appears at the +end of the vista, shooting into the sky;<note place="foot">Monte Viso is not seen from the Lautaret Road. That this is so is seen when +one crosses the Col du Galibier, on the south side of which pass the Monte Viso is +visible for a short time.</note> in the middle distance, +but still ten miles off, is Briançon with its interminable forts, and +in the foreground, leading down to the Guisane, and rising high +up the neighbouring slopes, are fertile fields, studded with villages +and church spires. The next day I walked over from Briançon to +La Bessée, to my worthy friend Jean Reynaud, the surveyor of +roads of his district. +</p> + +<p> +All the peaks of Mont Pelvoux are well seen from La Bessée—the +highest point, as well as that upon which the engineers erected +their cairn. Neither Reynaud nor any one else knew this. The +natives knew only that the engineers had ascended one peak, and +had seen from that one a still higher point, which they called the +<pb n='19'/><anchor id='Pg019'/>Pointe des Arcines or des Ecrins. They could not say whether +this latter could be seen from La Bessée, nor could they tell the +peak upon which the cairn had been erected. We were under the +impression that the highest point was concealed by the peaks +which we saw, and would be gained by passing over them. They +knew nothing of the ascent of Monsieur Puiseux, and they confidently +asserted that the highest point of Mont Pelvoux had not +been attained by any one. It was this point we wished to reach. +</p><anchor id="fig17"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: MONT PELVOUX FROM ABOVE LA BESSÉE.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus042.jpg" rend="w100"><head rend="ill">MONT PELVOUX FROM ABOVE LA BESSÉE.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: Mont Pelvoux from above La Bessée</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +Nothing prevented our starting at once but the absence of Macdonald +and the want of a bâton. Reynaud suggested a visit to the +postmaster, who possessed a bâton of local celebrity. Down we +went to the bureau; but it was closed: we halloed through the +slits, but no answer. At last the postmaster was discovered endeavouring +(with very fair success) to make himself intoxicated. +He was just able to ejaculate, <q>France! ’tis the first nation in the +world!</q> which is a phrase used by a Frenchman at times when +<pb n='20'/><anchor id='Pg020'/>a Briton would begin to shout, <q>We won’t go home till morning</q>—national +glory being uppermost in the thoughts of one, and home +in those of the other. The bâton was produced; it was a branch +of a young oak, about five feet long, gnarled and twisted in several +directions. <q>Sir,</q> said the postmaster, as he presented it, <q>France! +’tis the first—the first nation in the world, by its</q>—he stuck. +<q>Bâtons?</q> I suggested. <q>Yes, yes, sir; by its bâtons, by its—its,</q> +and here he could not get on at all. As I looked at this +young limb, I thought of my own; but Reynaud, who knew +everything about everybody in the village, said there was not a +better one, so off we went with it, leaving the official staggering +in the road and muttering, <q>France! ’tis the first nation in the +world!</q> +</p> + +<p> +The 3rd of August came, and Macdonald did not appear, so we +started for the Val Louise; our party consisting of Reynaud, myself, +and a porter, Jean Casimir Giraud, nicknamed <q>little nails,</q> +the shoemaker of the place. An hour and a half’s smart walking +took us to La Ville de Val Louise, our hearts gladdened by the +glorious peaks of Pelvoux shining out without a cloud around +them. I renewed acquaintance with the mayor of <q>La Ville.</q> +His aspect was original, and his manners were gracious, but the +odour which proceeded from him was dreadful. +</p> + +<p> +Reynaud kindly undertook to look after the commissariat, and +I found to my annoyance, when we were about to leave, that I had +given tacit consent to a small wine-cask being carried with us, +which was a great nuisance from the commencement. It was excessively +awkward to handle; one man tried to carry it, and then +another, and at last it was slung from one of our bâtons, and was +carried by two of us, which gave our party the appearance of a +mechanical diagram to illustrate the uses of levers. +</p> + +<p> +At <q>La Ville</q> the Val Louise splits into two branches—the Val +d’Entraigues on the left and the Vallon d’Alefred (or Ailefroide) on +the right; our route was up the latter, and we moved steadily forwards +to the village of La Pisse, where Pierre Sémiond lived, who +<pb n='21'/><anchor id='Pg021'/>was reputed to know more about the Pelvoux than any other man. +He looked an honest fellow, but unfortunately he was ill and could +not come. He recommended his brother, an aged creature, whose +furrowed and wrinkled face hardly seemed to announce the man +we wanted; but having no choice, we engaged him and again set +forth. Walnut and a great variety of other trees gave shadow to +our path and fresh vigour to our limbs; while below, in a sublime +gorge, thundered the torrent, whose waters took their rise from +the snows we hoped to tread on the morrow. +</p><anchor id="fig18"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE GRAND PELVOUX DE VAL LOUISE.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus044.png" rend="w100"><head rend="ill">THE GRAND PELVOUX DE VAL LOUISE.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: The Grand Pelvoux de Val Louise</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +The Pelvoux could not be seen at La Ville, owing to a high +intervening ridge; we were now moving along the foot of this +to get to the châlets of Alefred, or, as they are sometimes called, +Aléfroide, where the mountain actually commences. From these +châlets the subordinate, but more proximate, peaks appear considerably +higher than the loftier ones behind, and sometimes completely +conceal them. But the whole height of the peak, which in these +valleys goes under the name of the <q>Grand Pelvoux,</q> is seen +at one glance from its summit to its base, six or seven thousand +feet of nearly perpendicular cliffs. +</p> + +<p> +The châlets of Alefred are a cluster of miserable wooden huts +<pb n='22'/><anchor id='Pg022'/>at the foot of the Grand Pelvoux, and are close to the junction of +the streams which descend from the glacier de Sapenière (or du +Selé) on the left, and the glaciers Blanc and Noir on the right. +We rested a minute to purchase some butter and milk, and Sémiond +picked up a disreputable-looking lad to assist in carrying, pushing, +and otherwise moving the wine-cask. +</p> + +<p> +Our route now turned sharply to the left, and all were glad that +the day was drawing to a close, so that we had the shadows from +the mountains. A more frightful and desolate valley it is scarcely +possible to imagine; it contains miles of boulders, débris, stones, +sand, and mud; few trees, and they placed so high as to be almost +out of sight; not a soul inhabits it; no birds are in the air, no fish +in its waters; the mountain is too steep for the chamois, its slopes +too inhospitable for the marmot, the whole too repulsive for the +eagle. Not a living thing did we see in this sterile and savage valley +during four days, except some few poor goats which had been +driven there against their will. +</p> + +<p> +It was a scene in keeping with the diabolical deed perpetrated +here about four hundred years ago—the murder of the Vaudois of +Val Louise, in the cavern which was now in sight, though high +above us. Their story is very sad. Peaceful and industrious, for +more than three centuries they had inhabited these retired valleys +in tranquil obscurity. The Archbishops of Embrun endeavoured, +though with little success, to get them within the pale of their +church. Their efforts were aided by others, who commenced by +imprisonments and torture,<note place="foot">It became a regular business. <q>We find amongst the current accounts of the Bailiff +of Embrun this singular article—<q><hi rend='italic'>Item, for persecuting the Vaudois, eight sols +and thirty deniers of gold.</hi></q></q>—Muston, vol. i. p. 38.</note> and at last adopted the method of +burning them by hundreds at the stake.<note place="foot">On the 22d of May 1393, eighty persons of the valleys of Freissinières and +Argentière, and one hundred and fifty persons of the Val Louise, were burnt at +Embrun.—Muston, vol. i. p. 41.</note> +</p> + +<p> +In the year 1488, Albert Cattanée, Archdeacon of Cremona and +<pb n='23'/><anchor id='Pg023'/>legate of Pope Innocent VIII., would have anticipated the barbarities +which at a later date roused the indignation of Milton and the +fears of Cromwell;<note place="foot">See Morland’s <hi rend='italic'>History of the Evangelical Churches of Piedmont</hi>, 1658; Cromwell’s +<hi rend='italic'>Acts</hi>, 1658; and Burton’s <hi rend='italic'>Diary</hi>, 1828.</note> but, driven everywhere back by the Waldenses +of Piedmont, he left their valleys and crossed the Mont Genèvre to +attack the weaker and more thinly populated valleys of the Vaudois +in Dauphiné. At the head of an army which is said to have +been composed of vagabonds, robbers, and assassins (who had been +tempted to his banner by promises of absolution beforehand, of +being set free from the obligation of vows which they might have +made, and by the confirmation of property to them which they +might have wrongfully acquired), as well as regular troops, Cattanée +poured down the valley of the Durance. The inhabitants of the +Val Louise fled before a host that was ten times their number, and +took up their abode in this cavern, where they had collected provisions +sufficient for two years. But intolerance is ever painstaking; +their retreat was discovered. Cattanée had a captain who +combined the resources of a Herod to the cruelty of a Pelissier, and, +lowering his men by ropes, fired piles of brushwood at the entrance +to the cavern, suffocated the majority, and slew the remainder. +The Vaudois were relentlessly exterminated, without distinction of +age or sex. More than three thousand persons, it is said, perished +in this frightful massacre; the growth of three hundred and fifty +years was destroyed at one blow, and the valley was completely +depopulated. Louis XII. caused it to be re-peopled, and, after +another three centuries and a half, behold the result—a race of +monkeys.<note place="foot">The commune of the Val Louise contains at the present time about 3400 inhabitants. +This crétin population has been aptly described by M. Elisée Reclus in the +<hi rend='italic'>Tour du Monde</hi>, 1860. He says:—<q>They attain the highest possible development of +their intelligence in their infancy, and—abundantly provided with majestic goîtres, +which are lengthened and swollen by age—are in this respect like to the ourangoutangs, +who have nothing more to acquire after the age of three years. At the age +of five years the little crétins have already the placid and mature expression which +they ought to keep all their lives.... They wear trousers, and coats with tails, +and a large black hat.</q></note> +</p> + +<pb n='24'/><anchor id='Pg024'/> + +<p> +We rested a little at a small spring, and then hastened onwards +till we nearly arrived at the foot of the Sapenière glacier, when +Sémiond said we must turn to the right, up the slopes. This we +did, and clambered for half-an-hour through scattered firs and +fallen boulders. Then evening began to close in rapidly, and it +was time to look for a resting-place. There was no difficulty in +getting one, for all around there was a chaotic assemblage of +rocks. We selected the under side of a boulder which was more +than fifty feet long by twenty high, cleared out the rubbish, and +then collected wood for a fire. +</p> + +<p> +I have a pleasant recollection of that camp-fire. The wine-cask +had got through all its troubles; it was tapped, and the +Frenchmen seemed to derive some consolation from its execrable +contents. Reynaud chanted scraps of French songs, and each +contributed his share of joke, story, or verse. The weather was +perfect, and our prospects for the morrow were good. My companions’ +joy culminated when a packet of red <anchor id="corr024"/><corr sic="fire">fir</corr> was thrown into +the flames. It hissed and bubbled for a moment or two, and then +broke out into a grand flare. The effect of the momentary light +was magnificent; the mountains all around were illuminated for +a second, and then relapsed into their solemn gloom. One by +one our party dropped off to sleep, and at last I got into my +blanket-bag. It was hardly necessary, for although we were at +a height of at least 7000 feet, the minimum temperature was +above 40° Fahrenheit. +</p> + +<p> +We roused at three, and made a start at half-past four. +Giraud had been engaged as far as this rock only, but as he +wished to go on, we allowed him to accompany us. We mounted +the slopes and quickly got above the trees, then had a couple +of hours’ clambering over bits of precipitous rock and banks of +débris, and, at a quarter to seven, got to a narrow glacier—Clos +de l’Homme—which streamed out of the plateau on the summit, +<pb n='25'/><anchor id='Pg025'/>and nearly reached the glacier de Sapenière. We worked as much +as possible to the right, in hopes that we should not have to cross +it, but were continually driven back, and at last we found that +over we must go. Old Sémiond had a strong objection to the +ice, and made explorations on his own account to endeavour to +avoid it; but Reynaud and I preferred to cross it, and Giraud +stuck to us. It was narrow—in fact, one could throw a stone +across—and it was easily mounted on the side; but in the centre +swelled into a steep dome, up which we were obliged to cut. +Giraud stepped forward and said he should like to try his hand, +and having got hold of the axe, would not give it up; and here, +as well as afterwards when it was necessary to cross the gullies +filled with hard snow, which abound on the higher part of the +mountain, he did all the work, and did it admirably. +</p> + +<p> +Old Sémiond of course came after us when we got across. We +then zigzagged up some snow-slopes, and shortly afterwards commenced +to ascend the interminable array of buttresses which are +the great peculiarity of the Pelvoux.<note place="foot"><q>The nucleus of the <q>massif</q> is a line protogine, divided by nearly vertical +cracks.</q>—<hi rend='italic'>Dollfus-Ausset.</hi></note> They were very steep +in many places, yet on the whole afforded good hold, and no +climbing should be called difficult which does that. Gullies +abounded among them, sometimes of great length and depth. +<hi rend='italic'>They</hi> were frequently rotten, and would have been difficult for a +single man to pass. The uppermost men were continually abused +for dislodging rocks and for harpooning those below with their +bâtons. However, without these incidents the climbing would +have been dull—they helped to break the monotony. +</p> + +<p> +We went up chimneys and gullies by the hour together, and +always seemed to be coming to something, although we never got +to it. The outline sketch will help to explain the situation. We +stood at the foot of a great buttress—perhaps about 200 feet high—and +looked up. It did not go to a point as in the diagram, +because we could not see the top; although we felt convinced +<pb n='26'/><anchor id='Pg026'/>that behind the fringe of pinnacles we did see there was a top, and +that <hi rend='italic'>it</hi> was the edge of the plateau we so much desired to attain. +Up we mounted, and reached the pinnacles; but, lo! another set +was seen,—and another,—and yet more—till at last we reached +the top, and found it was only a buttress, and that +we must descend 40 or 50 feet before we could +commence to mount again. When this +operation had been performed a few +dozen times, it began to be wearisome, +especially as we were in +the dark as to our whereabouts. +Sémiond, however, +encouraged us, +and said he knew we +were on the right route,—so away we went once more. +</p><anchor id="fig19"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: BUTTRESSES OF MONT PELVOUX.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus049.png" rend="w80"><head rend="ill">BUTTRESSES OF MONT PELVOUX.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: Buttresses of Mont Pelvoux</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +It was now nearly mid-day, and we seemed no nearer the summit +of the Pelvoux than when we started. At last we all joined +together and held a council. <q>Sémiond, old friend, do you know +where we are now?</q> <q>Oh yes, perfectly, to a yard and a half.</q> +<q>Well, then, how much are we below this plateau?</q> He affirmed +we were not half-an-hour from the edge of the snow. <q>Very good; +let us proceed.</q> Half-an-hour passed, and then another, but we +were still in the same state,—pinnacles, buttresses, and gullies were +in profusion, but the plateau was not in sight. So we called him +again—for he had been staring about latterly, as if in doubt—and +repeated the question. <q>How far below are we now?</q> Well, he +thought it might be half-an-hour more. <q>But you said that just +now; are you sure we are going right?</q> Yes, he believed we +were. Believed! that would not do. <q>Are you sure we are going +right for the Pic des Arcines?</q> <q>Pic des Arcines!</q> he ejaculated +in astonishment, as if he had heard the words for the first +time. <q>Pic des Arcines; no! but for the pyramid, the celebrated +pyramid he had helped the great Capitaine Durand,</q> &c. +</p> + +<p> +Here was a fix;—we had been talking about it to him for a +<pb n='27'/><anchor id='Pg027'/>whole day, and now he confessed he knew nothing about it. I +turned to Reynaud, who seemed thunderstruck. <q>What did he +suggest?</q> He shrugged his shoulders. <q>Well,</q> we said, after +explaining our minds pretty freely to Sémiond, <q>the sooner +we turn back the better, for we have no wish to see your +pyramid.</q> +</p> + +<p> +We halted for an hour, and then commenced the descent. It +took us nearly seven hours to come down to our rock; but I paid +no heed to the distance, and do not remember anything about it. +When we got down we made a discovery which affected us as much +as the footprint in the sand did Robinson Crusoe: a blue silk veil +lay by our fireside. There was but one explanation,—Macdonald +had arrived; but where was he? We soon packed our baggage, +and tramped in the dusk, through the stony desert, to Alefred, +where we arrived about half-past nine. <q>Where is the Englishman?</q> +was the first question. He was gone to sleep at La +Ville. +</p> + +<p> +We passed that night in a hay-loft, and in the morning, after +settling with Sémiond, posted down to catch Macdonald. We had +already determined on the plan of operation, which was to get him +to join us, return, and be independent of all guides, simply taking +the best man we could get as a porter. I set my heart on Giraud,—a +good fellow, with no pretence, although in every respect up +to the work. We were disappointed; he was obliged to go to +Briançon. +</p> + +<p> +The walk soon became exciting. The natives inquired the +result of our expedition, and common civility obliged us to stop. +But I was afraid of losing my man, for it was said he would wait +only till ten o’clock, and that time was near at hand. At last I +dashed over the bridge,—time from Alefred an hour and a quarter. +A cantonnier stopped me, saying that the Englishman had just +started for La Bessée. I rushed after him, turned angle after +angle of the road, but could not see him; at last, as I came round +a corner, he was also just turning another, going very fast. I +<pb n='28'/><anchor id='Pg028'/>shouted, and luckily he heard me. We returned, reprovisioned +ourselves at La Ville, and the same evening saw us passing our +first rock, <hi rend='italic'>en route</hi> for another. I have said we determined to take +no guide; but, on passing La Pisse, old Sémiond turned out and +offered his services. He went well, in spite of his years and disregard +of truth. <q>Why not take him?</q> said my friend. So we +offered him a fifth of his previous pay, and in a few seconds he +closed with the offer. This time he came in an inferior position,—we +were to lead, he to follow. Our second follower was a youth +of twenty-seven years, who was not all that could be desired. He +drank Reynaud’s wine, smoked our cigars, and quietly secreted +the provisions when we were nearly starving. Discovery of his +proceedings did not at all disconcert him, and he finished up by +getting several items added to our bill at La Ville, which, not a +little to his disgust, we disallowed. +</p> + +<p> +This night we fixed our camp high above the tree-line, and +indulged ourselves in the healthy employment of carrying our fuel +up to it. The present rock was not so comfortable as the first, and, +before we could settle down, we were obliged to turn out a large +mass which was in the way. It was very obstinate, but moved at +length; slowly and gently at first, then faster and faster, at last +taking great jumps in the air, striking a stream of fire at every +touch, which shone out brightly as it entered the gloomy valley +below, and long after it was out of sight, we heard it bounding +downwards, and then settle with a subdued crash on the glacier +beneath. As we turned back from this curious sight, Reynaud +asked if we had ever seen a torrent on fire, and told us that in the +spring the Durance, swollen by the melting of the snow, sometimes +brings down so many rocks that, where it passes through +a narrow gorge at La Bessée, no water whatever is seen, but +only boulders rolling over and over, grinding each other into +powder, and striking so many sparks that the stream looks as +if it were on fire. +</p> + +<p> +We had another merry evening with nothing to mar it; the +<pb n='29'/><anchor id='Pg029'/>weather was perfect, and we lay backward in luxurious repose, +looking at the sky spangled with its ten thousand brilliant lights. +</p> + +<lg> +<l rend='margin-left: 10'>... <q rend="post: none">The ranges stood</q></l> +<l>Transfigured in the silver flood,</l> +<l>Their snows were flashing cold and keen,</l> +<l>Dead white, save where some sharp ravine</l> +<l>Took shadow, or the sombre green</l> +<l>Of hemlocks turned to pitchy black,</l> +<l><q rend="pre: none">Against the whiteness at their back.</q><note place="foot">J. G. Whittier, <q>Snow-Bound.</q></note></l> +</lg> +<anchor id="fig20"/><figure url="images/illus052.png" + rend="w40"><figDesc>Illustration: Portrait of the late R. J. S. Macdonald</figDesc></figure> +<p> +Macdonald related his experiences +over the café noir. He had travelled +day and night for several days in order +to join us, but had failed to find our +first bivouac, and had camped a few +hundred yards from us under another +rock, higher up the mountain. The next +morning he discerned us going along a +ridge at a great height above him, and +as it was useless to endeavour to overtake +us, he lay down and watched with a heavy heart until we had +turned the corner of a buttress, and vanished out of sight. +</p> + +<p> +Nothing but the heavy breathing of our already sound asleep +comrades broke the solemn stillness of the night. It was a silence +to be felt. Nothing? Hark! what is that dull booming sound +above us? Is that nothing? There it is again, plainer—on it +comes, nearer, clearer; ’tis a crag escaped from the heights above! +What a fearful crash! We jump to our feet. Down it comes with +awful fury; what power can withstand its violence? Dancing, +leaping, flying; dashing against others; roaring as it descends. +Ah, it has passed! No; there it is again, and we hold our breath, +as, with resistless force and explosions like artillery, it darts past, +with an avalanche of shattered fragments trailing in its rear! ’Tis +<pb n='30'/><anchor id='Pg030'/>gone, and we breathe more freely as we hear the finale on the +glacier below.<note place="foot">M. Puiseux, on his expedition of 1848, was surprised, when at breakfast on +the side of the mountain, by a mass of rock of more than a cubic yard falling like a +bomb at his side, which threw up splinters in all directions.</note> +</p> + +<p> +We retired at last, but I was too excited to sleep. At a quarter-past +four every man once more shouldered his pack and started. +This time we agreed to keep more to the right, to see if it were not +possible to get to the plateau without losing any time by crossing +the glacier. To describe our route would be to repeat what has been +said before. We mounted steadily for an hour and a half, sometimes +walking, though more frequently climbing, and then found, after all, +that it was necessary to cross the glacier. The part on which we +struck came down a very steep slope, and was much crevassed. +The word crevassed hardly expresses its appearance—it was a mass +of formidable séracs. We found, however, more difficulty in getting +on than across it; and, thanks to the rope, it was passed in safety. +Then the interminable buttresses began again. Hour after hour we +proceeded upwards, frequently at fault, and obliged to descend. The +ridge behind us had sunk long ago, and we looked over it, and all +others, till our eyes rested on the majestic Viso. Hour after hour +passed, and monotony was the order of the day. When twelve +o’clock came we lunched, and contemplated the scene with satisfaction; +all the summits in sight, with the single exception of the +Viso, had given in, and we looked over an immense expanse—a +perfect sea of peaks and snow-fields. Still the pinnacles rose above +us, and opinions were freely uttered that we should see no summit +of Pelvoux that day. Old Sémiond had become a perfect bore to +all; whenever one rested for a moment to look about, he would +say, with a complacent chuckle, <q>Don’t be afraid, follow me.</q> We +came at last to a very bad piece, rotten and steep, and no hold. +Here Reynaud and Macdonald confessed to being tired, and talked +of going to sleep. A way was discovered out of the difficulty; +then some one called out, <q>Look at the Viso!</q> and we saw that we +<pb n='31'/><anchor id='Pg031'/>almost looked over it. We worked away with redoubled energy, +and at length caught sight of the head of the glacier as it streamed +out of the plateau. This gave us fresh hopes; we were not deceived; +and with a simultaneous shout we greeted the appearance +of our long-wished-for snows. A large crevasse separated us from +them; but a bridge was found; we tied ourselves in line, and +moved safely over it. Directly we got across, there rose before us +a fine snow-capped peak. Old Sémiond cried, <q>The pyramid! +I see the pyramid!</q> <q>Where, Sémiond, where?</q> <q>There; on +the top of that peak.</q> +</p><anchor id="fig21"/> +<figure url="images/illus054.png" + rend="w100"><figDesc>Illustration: Outline to show route up Mont Pelvoux</figDesc></figure> +<p> +There, sure enough, was the cairn he had helped to erect more +than thirty years before. Where was the Pic des Arcines which we +were to see? It was nowhere visible—there was only a great +expanse of snow, bordered by three lower peaks. Somewhat sadly +we moved towards the pyramid, sighing that there was no other to +conquer; but hardly had we gone two hundred paces, before there +rose a superb white cone on the left, which had been hidden before +by a slope of snow. We shouted, <q>The Pic des Arcines!</q> and +<pb n='32'/><anchor id='Pg032'/>inquired of Sémiond if he knew whether that peak had been +ascended. As for him, he knew nothing, except that the peak +before us was called the pyramid, from the cairn he had, etc. +etc., and that it had not been ascended since. <q>All right then—face +about,</q> and we immediately turned at right angles for the cone, +the porter making faint struggles for his beloved pyramid. Our +progress was stopped, in the sixth of a mile, by the edge of the +ridge connecting the two peaks, and we perceived that it curled +over in a lovely volute. We involuntarily retreated. Sémiond, +who was last in the line, took the opportunity to untie himself, and +refused to come on; said we were running dangerous risks, and +talked vaguely of crevasses. We tied him up again, and proceeded. +The snow was very soft; we were always knee-deep, and sometimes +floundered in up to the waist; but a simultaneous jerk before and +behind always released one. By this time we had arrived at the +foot of the final peak. The left-hand ridge seemed easier than that +upon which we stood, so we curved round to get to it. Some rocks +peeped out 150 feet below the summit, and up these we crawled, +leaving our porter behind, as he said he was afraid. I could not +resist the temptation, as we went off, to turn round and beckon him +onwards, saying, <q>Don’t be afraid—follow me,</q> but he did not +answer to the appeal, and never went to the top. The rocks led to +a short ridge of ice—our plateau on one side, and a nearly vertical +precipice on the other. Macdonald cut up it, and at a quarter +to two we stood shaking hands on the loftiest summit of the +conquered Pelvoux. +</p> + +<p> +The day still continued everything that could be desired, and, +far and near, countless peaks burst into sight, without a cloud to +hide them. The mighty Mont Blanc, full seventy miles away, first +caught our eyes, and then, still farther off, the Monte Rosa group; +while, rolling away to the east, one unknown range after another +succeeded in unveiled splendour; fainter and fainter in tone, but +still perfectly defined, till at last the eye was unable to distinguish +sky from mountain, and they died away in the far-off horizon. +<pb n='33'/><anchor id='Pg033'/>Monte Viso rose up grandly, but it was less than forty miles away, +and we looked over it to a hazy mass we knew must be the plains +of Piedmont. Southwards a blue mist seemed to indicate the +existence of the distant Mediterranean; to the west we looked over +to the mountains of Auvergne. Such was the panorama; a view +extending in nearly every direction for more than one hundred +miles. It was with some difficulty we wrenched our eyes from +the more distant objects to contemplate the nearer ones. Mont +Dauphin was very conspicuous, but La Bessée was not readily +perceived. Besides these places not a habitation could be seen; +all was rock, snow, or ice; and, large as we knew were the snow-fields +of Dauphiné, we were surprised to find that they very far +surpassed our most ardent imagination. Nearly in a line between +us and the Viso, immediately to the south of Chateau Queyras, was +a splendid group of mountains of great height. More to the south +an unknown peak seemed still higher; while close to us we were +astonished to discover that there was a mountain which appeared +even higher than that on which we stood. At least this was my +opinion; Macdonald thought that it was not so high, and Reynaud +that it was much about the same elevation as our own peak. +</p> + +<p> +This mountain was distant a couple of miles or so, and was +separated from us by a tremendous abyss, the bottom of which we +could not see. On the other side rose this mighty wall-sided peak, +too steep for snow, black as night, with sharp ridges and pointed +summit. We were in complete ignorance of its whereabouts, for +none of us had been on the other side. We imagined that La +Bérarde was in the abyss at our feet, although it was in reality +beyond the other mountain.<note place="foot"><p>This mountain is the culminating point of the group, and is named on the +French map, Pointe des Ecrins. It is seen from the Val Christophe, and from that +direction its ridges completely conceal Mont Pelvoux. On the other side—that +is, from the direction of La Bessée or the Val Louise—the reverse is the case: the +Pelvoux completely conceals it. +</p> + +<p> +Unaware that this name was going to be applied to it, we gave the name Pic des +Arcines or des Ecrins to our summit, in accordance with the traditions of the natives.</p></note> +</p> + +<pb n='34'/><anchor id='Pg034'/> + +<p> +We left the summit at last, and descended to the rocks and to +our porter, where I boiled some water, obtained by melting snow. +After we had fed, and smoked our cigars (lighted without difficulty +from a common match), we found it was ten minutes past three, +and high time to be off. We dashed, waded, and tumbled for +twenty-five minutes through the snow, and then began the long +descent of the rocks. It was nearly four o’clock, and, as it would +be dark at eight, it was evident that there was no time to be lost, +and we pushed on to the utmost. Nothing remarkable occurred +going down. We kept rather closer to the glacier, and crossed at +the same point as in the morning. Getting <hi rend='italic'>off</hi> it was like getting +<hi rend='italic'>on</hi> it—rather awkward. Old Sémiond had got over—so had +Reynaud; Macdonald came next, but, as he made a long stretch +to get on to a higher mass, he slipped, and would have been in the +bowels of a crevasse in a moment had he not been tied. +</p> + +<p> +It was nearly dark by the time we had crossed, yet I still hoped +that we should be able to pass the night at our rock. Macdonald +was not so sanguine, and he was right; for at last we found ourselves +quite at fault, and wandered helplessly up and down for an +hour, while Reynaud and the porter indulged in a little mutual +abuse. The dreary fact, that, as we could not get down, we must +stay where we were, was now quite apparent. +</p> + +<p> +We were at least 10,500 feet high, and if it commenced to rain +or snow, as the gathering clouds and rising wind seemed to threaten, +we might be in a sore plight. We were hungry, having eaten +little since 3 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi>, and a torrent we heard close at hand, but could +not discover, aggravated our thirst. Sémiond endeavoured to get +some water from it. Although he succeeded in doing so, he was +wholly unable to return, and we had to solace him by shouting at +intervals through the night. +</p> + +<p> +A more detestable locality for a night out of doors it is difficult +to imagine. There was not shelter of any kind; it was perfectly +exposed to the chilly wind which began to rise, and it was too +steep to promenade. Loose rubbly stones covered the ground, and +<pb n='35'/><anchor id='Pg035'/>had to be removed before we could sit with any comfort. This +was an advantage, although we hardly thought so at the time, as +it gave us some employment, and, after an hour’s active exercise +of that interesting kind, I obtained a small strip about nine feet +long, on which it was possible to walk. Reynaud was furious at +first, and soundly abused the porter, whose opinion as to the route +down had been followed rather than that of our friend, and at last +settled down to a deep dramatic despair, and wrung his hands +with frantic gesture, as he exclaimed, <q>Oh, malheur, malheur! +Oh misérables!</q> +</p> + +<p> +Thunder commenced to growl, and lightning to play among +the peaks above, and the wind, which had brought the temperature +down to nearly freezing-point, began to chill us to the bones. We +examined our resources. They were six and a half cigars, two +boxes of vesuvians, one-third of a pint of brandy-and-water, and +half-a-pint of spirits of wine: rather scant fare for three fellows +who had to get through seven hours before daylight. The spirit-lamp +was lighted, and the remaining spirits of wine, the brandy +and some snow, were heated by it. It was a strong liquor, and +we wished for more of it. When it was consumed, Macdonald +endeavoured to dry his socks by the lamp, and then the three +lay down under my plaid to pretend to sleep. Reynaud’s woes +were aggravated by toothache; Macdonald somehow managed to +close his eyes. +</p> + +<p> +The longest night must end, and ours did at last. We got +down to our rock in an hour and a quarter, and found the lad not +a little surprised at our absence. He said he had made a gigantic +fire to light us down, and shouted with all his might; we neither +saw the fire nor heard his shouts. He said we looked a ghastly +crew, and no wonder; it was our fourth night out. +</p> + +<p> +We feasted at our cave, and performed some very necessary +ablutions. The persons of the natives are infested by certain +agile creatures—rapid of motion, numerous, and voracious. It is +dangerous to approach too near, and one has to study the wind, +<pb n='36'/><anchor id='Pg036'/>so as to get on their weather-side. In spite of all such precautions +my unfortunate companion and myself were being rapidly +devoured alive. We only expected a temporary lull of our tortures, +for the interiors of the inns are like the exteriors of the natives, +swarming with this species of animated creation. +</p> + +<p> +It is said that once, when these tormentors were filled with an +unanimous desire, an unsuspecting traveller was dragged bodily +from his bed! This needs confirmation. One word more, and I +have done with this vile subject. We returned from our ablutions, +and found the Frenchmen engaged in conversation. <q>Ah!</q> said +old Sémiond, <q>as to fleas, I don’t pretend to be different to anyone +else,—<hi rend='italic'>I have them</hi>.</q> This time he certainly spoke the truth. +</p> + +<p> +We got down to La Ville in good time, and luxuriated there +for several days; played many games of bowls with the natives, +and were invariably beaten by them. At last it was necessary to +part, and I walked to Abries, by way of Mont Dauphin and the +gorge of the Guil towards Monte Viso, while Macdonald went to +Briançon. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +I have not attempted to conceal that the ascent of Mont +Pelvoux is of a rather monotonous character; the view from its +summit can, however, be confidently recommended. A glance at +a map will show that, with the single exception of the Viso, +whose position is unrivalled, it is better situated than any other +mountain of considerable height for viewing the whole of the +Western Alps. +</p> + +<p> +Our discovery that the peak which is to be called the Pointe +des Ecrins was a separate and distinct mountain from Mont Pelvoux—and +not its highest point—gave us satisfaction, although it +was also rather of the nature of a disappointment. +</p> + +<p> +On our return to La Bessée we wrongly identified it with the +peak which is seen from thence to the left of the Pelvoux. The +two mountains bear a considerable resemblance to each other, so +the mistake is not, perhaps, unpardonable. Although the latter +<pb n='37'/><anchor id='Pg037'/>mountain is one that is considerably higher than the Wetterhorn +or Monte Viso, it has no name; we called it the Pic Sans +Nom. +</p> + +<p> +It has been observed by others that it is improbable the French +surveyors should have remained for several days upon the Pic de +la Pyramide without visiting the other and loftier summit. If +they did, it is strange that they did not leave some memorial of +their visit. The natives who accompanied them asserted that they +did not pass from one to the other; we therefore claimed to have +made the ascent of the loftiest point for the first time. The +claim, however, cannot be sustained, on account of the ascent of +M. Puiseux. It is a matter of little moment; the excursion had +for us all the interest of a first ascent; and I look back upon +this, my first serious mountain scramble, with more satisfaction, +and with as much pleasure as upon any that is recorded in this +volume. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +A few days later, I left Abries to seek a quiet bundle of hay at +Le Chalp—a village some miles nearer to the Viso. On approaching +the place, the odour of sanctity became distinctly perceptible; +and on turning a corner the cause was manifested—there was +the priest of the place, surrounded by some of his flock. I advanced +humbly, hat in hand, but almost before a word could be said, he +broke out with, <q>Who are you?</q> <q>What are you?</q> <q>What do +you want?</q> I endeavoured to explain. <q>You are a deserter; I +know you are a deserter; go away, you can’t stay here; go to Le +Monta, down there; I won’t have you here,</q> and he literally drove +me away. The explanation of his strange behaviour was, that +Piedmontese soldiers who were tired of the service had not +unfrequently crossed the Col de la Traversette into the valley, +and trouble had arisen from harbouring them. However, I did not +know this at the time, and was not a little indignant that I, who +was marching to the attack, should be taken for a deserter. +</p> + +<p> +So I walked away, and shortly afterwards, as it was getting +<pb n='38'/><anchor id='Pg038'/>dark, encamped in a lovely hole—a cavity or kind of basin in the +earth, with a stream on one side, a rock to windward, and some +broken fir branches close at hand. Nothing could be more perfect: +rock, hole, wood, and water. After making a roaring fire, I +nestled in my blanket bag (an ordinary blanket sewn up double +round the legs, with a piece of elastic riband round the open end), +and slept, but not for long. I was troubled with dreams of the +Inquisition; the tortures were being applied—priests were forcing +fleas down my nostrils and into my eyes—and with red-hot pincers +were taking out bits of flesh, and then cutting off my ears and +tickling the soles of my feet. This was too much; I yelled a +great yell and awoke, to find myself covered with innumerable +crawling bodies. They were ants; I had camped by an ant-hill, +and, after making its inhabitants mad with the fire, had coolly +lain down in their midst. +</p><anchor id="fig22"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE BLANKET BAG.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus061.png" rend="w100"><head rend="ill">THE BLANKET BAG.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: The blanket bag</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +The night was fine, and as I settled down in more comfortable +quarters, a brilliant meteor sailed across full 60° of the cloudless +<pb n='39'/><anchor id='Pg039'/>sky, leaving a trail of light behind which lasted for several seconds. +It was the herald of a splendid spectacle. Stars fell by hundreds; +and not dimmed by intervening vapours, they sparkled with greater +brightness than Sirius in our damp climate. +</p> + +<p> +The next morning, after walking up the valley to examine the +Viso, I returned to Abries, and engaged a man from a neighbouring +hamlet, an inveterate smoker, and thirsty in proportion, whose +pipe never left his mouth except to allow him to drink. We +returned up the valley together, and slept in a hut of a shepherd, +whose yearly wage was almost as small as that of the herdsman +spoken of in Hyperion by Longfellow; and the next morning, in +his company, proceeded to the summit of the pass which I had +crossed in 1860. We were baffled in our attempt to get closer +to the mountain. A deep notch<note place="foot">There are three cols or passes close to Monte Viso on its northern side, which +lead from the valley of the Po into that of the Guil. The deep notch spoken of above +is the nearest to the mountain, and although it is by far the lowest gap in that part +of the chain, and would seem to be the true Col Viso, it does not appear to be used +as a pass. The second, which I crossed in 1860, has the name Col del Color del +Porco given to it upon the Sardinian map! The third is the Col de la Traversette; +and this, although higher than at least one of those mentioned above, is that which +is used by the natives who pass from one valley to the other.</note> with precipitous cliffs cut us off +from it. The snow-slope, too, which existed in the preceding +year on the Piedmontese side of the pass, was now wanting, and +we were unable to descend the rocks which lay beneath. A fortnight +afterwards the mountain was ascended for the first time by +Messrs. Mathews and Jacomb, with the two Croz’s of Chamounix. +Their attempt was made from the <hi rend='italic'>southern</hi> side, and the ascent, +which was formerly considered a thing totally impossible, has +become one of the most common and favourite excursions of the +district. +</p> + +<p> +The night of the 14th of August found me at St. Veran, a +village made famous by Neff, but in no other respect remarkable, +saving that it is one of the highest in Europe. The poor inn gave +the impression of great poverty. There was no meat, no bread, +<pb n='40'/><anchor id='Pg040'/>no butter or cheese; almost the only things that could be obtained +were eggs. The manners of the natives were primitive. The +woman of the inn, without the least sense of impropriety, stayed +in the room until I was fairly in bed, and her bill for supper, bed, +and breakfast, amounted to one and sevenpence. +</p><anchor id="fig23"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: NATURAL PILLAR NEAR MOLINES.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus063.png" rend="w60"><head rend="ill">NATURAL PILLAR NEAR MOLINES.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: Natural pillar near Molines</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +In this neighbourhood, and indeed all round about the Viso, the +chamois still remain in considerable numbers. They said at St. +Veran that six had been seen from the village on the day I was +there, and the innkeeper declared that he had seen fifty together +in the previous week! I myself saw in this and in the previous +season several small companies round about the Viso. It is perhaps +as favourable a district as any in the Alps for a sportsman who +<pb n='41'/><anchor id='Pg041'/>wishes to hunt the chamois, as the ground over which they wander +is by no means of excessive difficulty. +</p> + +<p> +The next day I descended the valley to Ville Vieille, and passed +near the village of Molines, but on the opposite side of the valley, a +remarkable natural pillar, in form not unlike a champagne bottle, +about sixty feet high, which had been produced by the action of +the weather, and, in all probability, chiefly by rain. These natural +pillars are among the most remarkable examples of the potent +effects produced by the long-continued action of quiet-working +forces. They are found in several other places in the Alps, as +well as elsewhere. +</p> + +<p> +The village of Ville Vieille boasts of an inn with the sign of the +Elephant; which, in the opinion of local amateurs, is a proof that +Hannibal passed through the gorge of the Guil. I remember the +place, because its bread, being only a month old, was unusually +soft, and, for the first time during ten days, it was possible to eat +some, without first of all chopping it into small pieces and soaking +it in hot water, which produced a slimy paste on the outside, but +left a hard untouched kernel. +</p> + +<p> +The same day I crossed the Col Isoard to Briançon. It was the +15th of August, and all the world was <hi rend='italic'>en fête</hi>; sounds of revelry +proceeded from the houses of Servières as I passed over the bridge +upon which the pyrrhic dance is annually performed,<note place="foot">See Ladoucette’s <hi rend='italic'>Hautes-Alpes</hi>, p. 596.</note> and natives +in all degrees of inebriation staggered about the paths. It was late +before the lights of the great fortress came into sight; but unchallenged +I passed through the gates, and once more sought shelter +under the roof of the Hotel de l’Ours. +</p> + +</div><div type="chapter" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='42'/><anchor id='Pg042'/> +<index index="toc" level1="Chapter III. My first scramble on the Matterhorn"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Chapter III. My first scramble on the Matterhorn"/> +<head>CHAPTER III.</head> + +<head type="sub">MY FIRST SCRAMBLE ON THE MATTERHORN.</head> + +<epigraph><p> +<q>What power must have been required to shatter and to sweep away the +missing parts of this pyramid; for we do not see it surrounded by heaps of fragments; +one only sees other peaks—themselves rooted to the ground—whose sides, +equally rent, indicate an immense mass of débris, of which we do not see any trace +in the neighbourhood. Doubtless this is that débris which, in the form of pebbles, +boulders, and sand, covers our valleys and our plains.</q><lb/><hi rend='smallcaps'>De Saussure.</hi> +</p> +</epigraph> + +<p> +Two summits amongst those in the Alps which yet remained +virgin had especially excited my admiration. One of these had +been attacked numberless times by the best mountaineers without +success; the other, surrounded by traditional inaccessibility, was +almost untouched. These mountains were the Weisshorn and +the Matterhorn. +</p> + +<p> +After visiting the great tunnel of the Alps in 1861, I wandered +for ten days in the neighbouring valleys, intending, presently, to +attempt the ascent of these two peaks. Rumours were floating +about that the former had been conquered, and that the latter was +shortly to be attacked, and they were confirmed on arrival at +Chatillon, at the entrance of the Val Tournanche. My interest +in the Weisshorn consequently abated, but it was raised to the +highest pitch on hearing that Professor Tyndall was at Breil, and +intending to try to crown his first victory by another and still +greater one. +</p> + +<p> +Up to this time my experience with guides had not been +fortunate, and I was inclined, improperly, to rate them at a low +value. They represented to me pointers out of paths, and large +consumers of meat and drink, but little more; and, with the recollection +of Mont Pelvoux, I should have greatly preferred the +<pb n='43'/><anchor id='Pg043'/>company of a couple of my countrymen to any number of guides. +In answer to inquiries at Chatillon, a series of men came forward, +whose faces expressed malice, pride, envy, hatred, and roguery of +every description, but who seemed to be destitute of all good +qualities. The arrival of two gentlemen with a guide, who they +represented was the embodiment of every virtue, and exactly the +man for the Matterhorn, rendered it unnecessary to engage any +of the others. My new guide in <hi rend='italic'>physique</hi> was a combination of +Chang and Anak; and although in acquiring him I did not obtain +exactly what was wanted, his late employers did exactly what <hi rend='italic'>they</hi> +wanted, for I obtained the responsibility, without knowledge, of +paying his back fare, which must have been a relief at once to +their minds and to their purses. +</p> + +<p> +When walking up towards Breil,<note place="foot">Frequently spelt Breuil.</note> we inquired for another man +of all the knowing ones, and they, with one voice, proclaimed that +Jean-Antoine Carrel, of the village of Val Tournanche, was the cock +of his valley. We sought, of course, for Carrel; and found him a +well-made, resolute-looking fellow, with a certain defiant air which +was rather taking. Yes, he would go. Twenty francs a day, whatever +was the result, was his price. I assented. But I must take +his comrade. <q>Why so?</q> Oh, it was absolutely impossible to +get along without another man. As he said this, an evil countenance +came forth out of the darkness and proclaimed itself the +comrade. I demurred, the negotiations broke off, and we went up +to Breil. This place will be frequently mentioned in subsequent +chapters, and was in full view of the extraordinary peak, the ascent +of which we were about to attempt. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +It is unnecessary to enter into a minute description of the +Matterhorn, after all that has been written about that famous +mountain. Those by whom this book is likely to be read will +know that that peak is nearly 15,000 feet high, and that it rises +abruptly, by a series of cliffs which may properly be termed +preci<pb n='44'/><anchor id='Pg044'/>pices, a clear 5000 feet above the glaciers which surround its base. +They will know too that it was the last great Alpine peak which +remained unscaled,—less on account of the difficulty of doing so, +than from the terror inspired by its invincible appearance. There +seemed to be a <hi rend='italic'>cordon</hi> drawn around it, up to which one might go, +but no farther. Within that invisible line gins and effreets were +supposed to exist—the Wandering Jew and the spirits of the +damned. The superstitious natives in the surrounding valleys +(many of whom still firmly believe it to be not only the highest +mountain in the Alps, but in the world) spoke of a ruined city on +its summit wherein the spirits dwelt; and if you laughed, they +gravely shook their heads; told you to look yourself to see the +castles and the walls, and warned one against a rash approach, lest +the infuriate demons from their impregnable heights might hurl +down vengeance for one’s derision. Such were the traditions of the +natives. Stronger minds felt the influence of the wonderful form, +and men who ordinarily spoke or wrote like rational beings, when +they came under its power seemed to quit their senses, and ranted, +and rhapsodised, losing for a time all common forms of speech. +Even the sober De Saussure was moved to enthusiasm when he +saw the mountain, and—inspired by the spectacle—he anticipated +the speculations of modern geologists, in the striking sentences +which are placed at the head of this chapter. +</p> + +<p> +The Matterhorn looks equally imposing from whatever side it +is seen; it never seems commonplace; and in this respect, and in +regard to the impression it makes upon spectators, it stands almost +alone amongst mountains. It has no rivals in the Alps, and but +few in the world. +</p> + +<p> +The seven or eight thousand feet which compose the actual +peak have several well-marked ridges and numerous others.<note place="foot">See the + <ref target="map1">Map of the Matterhorn and its Glaciers</ref>.</note> The +most continuous is that which leads towards the north-east; the +summit is at its higher, and the little peak, called the Hörnli, is at +its lower end. Another one that is well-pronounced descends from +<pb n='45'/><anchor id='Pg045'/>the summit to the ridge called the Furgen Grat. The slope of the +mountain that is between these two ridges will be referred to as +the eastern face. A third, somewhat less continuous than the +others, descends in a south-westerly direction, and the portion of +the mountain that is seen from Breil is confined to that which is +comprised between this and the second ridge. This section is not +composed, like that between the first and second ridge, of one grand +face; but it is broken up into a series of huge precipices, spotted +with snow-slopes, and streaked with snow-gullies. The other half +of the mountain, facing the Z’Mutt glacier, is not capable of equally +simple definition. There are precipices, apparent, but not actual; +there are precipices absolutely perpendicular; there are precipices +overhanging: there are glaciers, and there are hanging glaciers; +there are glaciers which tumble great <hi rend='italic'>séracs</hi> over greater cliffs, +whose débris, subsequently consolidated, becomes glacier again; +there are ridges split by the frost, and washed by the rain and +melted snow into towers and spires: while, everywhere, there are +ceaseless sounds of action, telling that the causes are still in operation +which have been at work since the world began; reducing the +mighty mass to atoms, and effecting its degradation. +</p><anchor id="plate02"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE NORTH-EAST.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus068a.png" rend="w100"><head rend="ill">THE MATTERHORN FROM THE NORTH-EAST.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: The Matterhorn from the North-East</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE THEODULE PASS. + (10,899 FEET)]</p> +</then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus068b.png" rend="w100"><head rend="ill">THE MATTERHORN FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE THEODULE PASS. + (10,899 FEET)</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: The Matterhorn from the summit of the Theodule Pass</figDesc></figure></p> +</else></pgIf> +<p> +Most tourists obtain their first view of the mountain either +from the valley of Zermatt or from that of Tournanche. From the +former direction the base of the mountain is seen at its narrowest, +and its ridges and faces seem to be of prodigious steepness. The +tourist toils up the valley, looking frequently for the great sight +which is to reward his pains, without seeing it (for the mountain +is first perceived in that direction about a mile to the north of +Zermatt), when, all at once, as he turns a rocky corner of the path, +it comes into view; not, however, where it is expected; the face +has to be raised up to look at it; it seems overhead. Although this is +the impression, the fact is that the summit of the Matterhorn from +this point makes an angle with the eye of less than 16º, while the +Dom, from the same place, makes a larger angle, but is passed by +unobserved. So little can dependence be placed on unaided vision. +<pb n='46'/><anchor id='Pg046'/>The view of the mountain from Breil, in the Val Tournanche, +is not less striking than that on the other side; but, usually, it +makes less impression, because the spectator grows accustomed +to the sight while coming up or down the valley. From this +direction the mountain is seen to be broken up into a series of +pyramidal wedge-shaped masses; on the other side it is remarkable +for the large, unbroken extent of cliffs that it presents, and for the +simplicity of its outline. It was natural to suppose that a way +would more readily be found to the summit on a side thus broken +up than in any other direction. The eastern face, fronting Zermatt, +seemed one smooth, inaccessible cliff, from summit to base. The +ghastly precipices which face the Z’Mutt glacier forbade any attempt +in <hi rend='italic'>that</hi> direction. There remained only the side of Val Tournanche; +and it will be found that nearly all the earliest attempts to ascend +the mountain were made upon the southern side. +</p> + +<p> +The first efforts to ascend the Matterhorn of which I have heard, +were made by the guides, or rather by the chasseurs, of Val Tournanche.<note place="foot">There were no guides, properly speaking, in this valley at that time, with the +exception of one or two Pessions and Pelissiers.</note> +These attempts were made in the years 1858-9, from the +direction of Breil, and the highest point that was attained was perhaps +as far as the place which is now called the <q>Chimney</q> (cheminée), +a height of about 12,650 feet. Those who were concerned in these +expeditions were Jean-Antoine Carrel, Jean Jacques Carrel, Victor +Carrel, the Abbé Gorret, and Gabrielle Maquignaz. I have been +unable to obtain any further details respecting them. +</p> + +<p> +The next attempt was a remarkable one; and of it, too, there +is no published account. It was made by the Messrs. Alfred, +Charles, and Sandbach Parker, of Liverpool, in July 1860. These +gentlemen, <hi rend='italic'>without guides</hi>, endeavoured to storm the citadel by +attacking its eastern face<note place="foot">This face is that on the right hand of the large + <ref target="plate03">engraving opposite p. 46</ref>. It is +also represented, more prominently, in the +<ref target="plate10">engraving facing p. 227</ref>.</note>—that to which reference was just now +made as a smooth, impracticable cliff. Mr. Sandbach Parker +<pb n='47'/><anchor id='Pg047'/>informs me that he and his brothers went along the ridge between +the Hörnli and the peak until they came to the point where the +ascending angle is considerably increased. This place is marked +on Dufour’s map of Switzerland 3298 mètres (10,820 feet). They +were then obliged to bear a little to the left to get on to the face +of the mountain, and, afterwards, they turned to the right, and +ascended about 700 feet farther, keeping as nearly as was +practicable to the crest of the ridge, but, occasionally, bearing a +little to the left—that is, more on to the face of the mountain. +The brothers started from Zermatt, and did not sleep out. Clouds, +a high wind, and want of time, were the causes which prevented +these daring gentlemen from going farther. Thus, their highest +point was under 12,000 feet. +</p><anchor id="plate03"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM NEAR THE SUMMIT OF THE THEODULE PASS.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus072.jpg" rend="w100"><head rend="ill">THE MATTERHORN FROM NEAR THE SUMMIT OF THE THEODULE PASS.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: The Matterhorn from near the summit of the Theodule Pass</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +The third attempt upon the mountain was made towards the +end of August 1860, by Mr. Vaughan Hawkins,<note place="foot">Mr. Hawkins was unaware that any attempts had been made before his own, and +spoke of it as the first.</note> from the side +of the Val Tournanche. A vivid account of his expedition has +been published by him in <hi rend='italic'>Vacation Tourists</hi>;<note place="foot"><hi rend='italic'>Macmillan</hi>, 1861.</note> and it has been +referred to several times by Professor Tyndall in the numerous +papers he has contributed to Alpine literature. I will dismiss +it, therefore, as briefly as possible. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Hawkins had inspected the mountain in 1859, with the +guide J. J. Bennen, and he had formed the opinion that the south-west +ridge<note place="foot">This ridge is seen on the left of the large + <ref target="plate03">engraving accompanying this chapter</ref>; +and if the reader consults this view, the explanatory outlines, and the maps, he will +be able to form a fair idea of the points which were attained on this and on the subsequent +attempts.</note> would lead to the summit. He engaged J. Jacques +Carrel, who was concerned in the first attempts, and, accompanied +by Bennen (and by Professor Tyndall, whom he had invited to +take part in the expedition), he started for the gap between the +little and the great peak.<note place="foot">Since this time the small peak has received the name Tête du Lion. The gap +is now called the Col du Lion; the glacier at its base, the Glacier du Lion; and the +gully which connects the Col with the glacier, the Couloir du Lion.</note> +</p> +<pb n='48'/><anchor id='Pg048'/> +<anchor id="fig24"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: J. J. BENNEN (1862).]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus075.png" rend="w60"><head rend="ill">J. J. BENNEN (1862).</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: J. J. Bennen</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +Bennen was a guide who was beginning to be talked about. +During the chief part of his brief career he was in the service +of Wellig, the landlord of the inn on the Æggischhorn, and was +hired out by him to tourists. Although his experience was +limited, he had acquired a good reputation; and his book of +certificates, which is lying before me,<note place="foot">By the kindness of its owner, Mr. F. Tuckett.</note> shows that he was highly +esteemed by his employers. A good-looking man, with courteous, +gentlemanly manners, skilful and bold, he might, by this time, +have taken a front place amongst guides if he had only been +endowed with more prudence. He perished miserably, in the +spring of 1864, not far from his home, on a mountain called +the Haut de Cry, in the Valais.<note place="foot">See <ref target="Pg301">Appendix A</ref>.</note> +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Hawkins’ party, led by Bennen, climbed the rocks +abutting against the Couloir du Lion, on its south side, and +attained the Col du Lion, although not without difficulty. They +then followed the south-west ridge, passed the place at which the +<pb n='49'/><anchor id='Pg049'/>earliest explorers had turned back (the + Chimney),<note place="foot">A view of this place <ref target="plate04">faces p. 76</ref>.</note> and ascended +about 300 feet more. Mr. Hawkins and J. J. Carrel then stopped, +but Bennen and Professor Tyndall mounted a few feet higher. +They retreated, however, in less than half-an-hour, finding that +there was too little time; and, descending to the Col by the same +route as they had followed on the ascent, proceeded thence to +Breil, down the Couloir instead of by the rocks. The point at +which Mr. Hawkins stopped is easily identified from his description. +Its height is 12,992 feet above the sea. I think that +Bennen and Tyndall could not have ascended more than 50 or 60 +feet beyond this in the few minutes they were absent from the +others, as they were upon one of the most difficult parts of the +mountain. This party therefore accomplished an advance of about +350 or 400 feet. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Hawkins did not, as far as I know, make another attempt; +and the next was made by the Messrs. Parker, in July 1861. +They again started from Zermatt; followed the route they had +struck out on the previous year, and got a little higher than +before; but they were defeated by want of time, shortly afterwards +left Zermatt on account of bad weather, and did not again renew +their attempts. Mr. Parker says—<q>In neither case did we go as +high as we could. At the point where we turned we saw our way +for a few hundred feet farther; but, beyond that, the difficulties +seemed to increase.</q> I am informed that both attempts should be +considered as excursions undertaken with the view of ascertaining +whether there was any encouragement to make a more deliberate +attack on the north-east side. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +My guide and I arrived at Breil on the 28th of August 1861, +and we found that Professor Tyndall <hi rend='italic'>had</hi> been there a day or two +before, but had done nothing. I had seen the mountain from +nearly every direction, and it seemed, even to a novice like myself, +far too much for a single day. I intended to sleep out upon it, as +<pb n='50'/><anchor id='Pg050'/>high as possible, and to attempt to reach the summit on the +following day. We endeavoured to induce another man to +accompany us, but without success. Matthias zum Taugwald +and other well-known guides were there at the time, but they +declined to go on any account. A sturdy old fellow—Peter +Taugwalder by name—said he would go! His price? <q>Two +hundred francs.</q> <q>What, whether we ascend or not?</q> <q>Yes—nothing +less.</q> The end of the matter was, that all the men who +were more or less capable showed a strong disinclination, or positively +refused, to go (their disinclination being very much in proportion +to their capacity), or else asked a prohibitive price. This, +it may be said once for all, was the reason why so many futile +attempts were made upon the Matterhorn. One first-rate guide +after another was brought up to the mountain, and patted on the +back, but all declined the business. The men who went had no +heart in the matter, and took the first opportunity to turn back.<note place="foot">The guide Bennen must be excepted.</note> +For they were, with the exception of one man, to whom reference +will be made presently, universally impressed with the belief that +the summit was entirely inaccessible. +</p> + +<p> +We resolved to go alone, and anticipating a cold bivouac, begged +the loan of a couple of blankets from the innkeeper. He refused +them; giving the curious reason, that we had bought a bottle of +brandy at Val Tournanche, and had not bought any from him! No +brandy, no blankets, appeared to be his rule. We did not require +them that night, as it was passed in the highest cow-shed in the +valley, which is about an hour nearer to the mountain than is the +hotel. The cowherds, worthy fellows, seldom troubled by tourists, +hailed our company with delight, and did their best to make us +comfortable; brought out their little stores of simple food, and, as +we sat with them round the great copper pot which hung over the +fire, bade us in husky voice, but with honest intent, to beware of +the perils of the haunted cliffs. When night was coming on, we +saw, stealing up the hill-side, the forms of Jean-Antoine Carrel and +<pb n='51'/><anchor id='Pg051'/>the comrade. <q>Oh ho!</q> I said, <q>you have repented?</q> <q>Not at +all; you deceive yourself.</q> <q>Why then have you come here?</q> +<q>Because we ourselves are going on the mountain to-morrow.</q> +<q>Oh, then it is <hi rend='italic'>not</hi> necessary to have more than three.</q> <q>Not for +<hi rend='italic'>us</hi>.</q> I admired their pluck, and had a strong inclination to engage +the pair; but, finally, decided against it. The comrade turned out +to be the J. J. Carrel who had been with Mr. Hawkins, and was +nearly related to the other man. +</p> +<anchor id="fig25"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: JEAN-ANTOINE CARREL (1869).]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus078.png" rend="w80"><head rend="ill">JEAN-ANTOINE CARREL (1869).</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: Jean-Antoine Carrel</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +Both were bold mountaineers; but Jean-Antoine was incomparably +the better man of the two, and he is the finest rock-climber +I have ever seen. He was the only man who persistently refused +to accept defeat, and who continued to believe, in spite of all discouragements, +that the great mountain was not inaccessible, and +that it could be ascended from the side of his native valley. +</p> + +<p> +The night wore away without any excitement, except from the +fleas, a party of whom executed a spirited fandango on my cheek, +to the sound of music produced on the drum of my ear, by one of +their fellows beating with a wisp of hay. The two Carrels crept +<pb n='52'/><anchor id='Pg052'/>noiselessly out before daybreak, and went off. We did not start +until nearly seven o’clock, and followed them leisurely, leaving all +our properties in the cow-shed; sauntered over the gentian-studded +slopes which intervene between the shed and the Glacier du Lion, +left cows and their pastures behind, traversed the stony wastes, and +arrived at the ice. Old, hard beds of snow lay on its right bank +(our left hand), and we mounted over them on to the lower portion +of the glacier with ease. But, as we ascended, crevasses became +numerous, and we were at last brought to a halt by some which +were of very large dimensions; and, as our cutting powers were +limited, we sought an easier route, and turned, naturally, to the +lower rocks of the Tête du Lion, which overlook the glacier on its +west. Some good scrambling took us in a short time on to the +crest of the ridge which descends towards the south; and thence, +up to the level of the Col du Lion, there was a long natural staircase, +on which it was seldom necessary to use the hands. We +dubbed the place <q>The Great Staircase.</q> Then the cliffs of the +Tête du Lion, which rise above the Couloir, had to be skirted. This +part varies considerably in different seasons, and in 1861 we found +it difficult; for the fine steady weather of that year had reduced the +snow-beds abutting against it to a lower level than usual, and the +rocks which were left exposed at the junction of the snow with +the cliffs, had few ledges or cracks to which we could hold. But by +half-past ten o’clock we stood on the Col, and looked down upon +the magnificent basin out of which the Z’Mutt glacier flows. We +decided to pass the night upon the Col, for we were charmed with +the capabilities of the place, although it was one where liberties +could not be taken. On one side a sheer wall overhung the +Tiefenmatten glacier. On the other, steep, glassy slopes of hard +snow descended to the Glacier du Lion, furrowed by water and by +falling stones. On the north there was the great peak of the +Matterhorn,<note place="foot">The <ref target="fig26">engraving</ref> is made after a sketch taken from the rocks of the Matterhorn +just above the Col.</note> +and on the south the cliffs of the Tête du Lion. Throw +<pb n='53'/><anchor id='Pg053'/>a bottle down to the Tiefenmatten—no sound returns for more +than a dozen seconds. +</p> + +<lg> +<l>*   *   *   <q rend="post: none">how fearful</q></l> +<l><q rend="pre: none">And dizzy ’tis, to cast one’s eyes so low!</q></l> +</lg> +<anchor id="fig26"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE COL DU LION: LOOKING TOWARDS THE TÊTE DU LION.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus080.jpg" rend="w80"><head rend="ill">THE COL DU LION: LOOKING TOWARDS THE TÊTE DU LION.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: The Col du Lion: Looking towards the Tête du Lion</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +But no harm could come from that side. Neither could it from +the other. Nor was it likely that it would from the Tête du Lion, +for some jutting ledges conveniently overhung our proposed resting-place. +We waited for a while, basked in the sunshine, and watched +<pb n='54'/><anchor id='Pg054'/>or listened to the Carrels, who were sometimes seen or heard, high +above us, upon the ridge leading towards the summit; and, leaving +at mid-day, we descended to the cow-shed, packed up the tent and +other properties, and returned to the Col, although heavily laden, +before six o’clock. This tent was constructed on a pattern suggested +by Mr. Francis Galton, and it was not a success. It looked very +pretty when set up in London, but it proved thoroughly useless in +the Alps. It was made of light canvas, and opened like a book; +had one end closed permanently and the other with flaps; it was +supported by two alpenstocks, and had the canvas sides prolonged +so as to turn in underneath. Numerous cords were sewn to the +lower edges, to which stones were to be attached; but the main +fastenings were by a cord which passed underneath the ridge and +through iron rings screwed into the tops of the alpenstocks, and +were secured by pegs. The wind, which playfully careered about +the surrounding cliffs, was driven through our gap with the force +of a blow-pipe; the flaps of the tent would not keep down, the +pegs would not stay in, and it exhibited so marked a desire to go +to the top of the Dent Blanche, that we thought it prudent to take +it down and to sit upon it. When night came on we wrapped ourselves +in it, and made our camp as comfortable as the circumstances +would allow. The silence was impressive. No living thing was +near our solitary bivouac; the Carrels had turned back and were +out of hearing; the stones had ceased to fall, and the trickling +water to murmur— +</p> + +<lg> +<l><q rend="post: none">The music of whose liquid lip</q></l> +<l>Had been to us companionship,</l> +<l>And, in our lonely life, had grown</l> +<l><q rend="pre: none">To have an almost human tone.</q><note place="foot">J. G. Whittier.</note></l> +</lg> + +<p> +It was bitterly cold. Water froze hard in a bottle under my head. +Not surprising, as we were actually on snow, and in a position +where the slightest wind was at once felt. For a time we dozed, +but about midnight there came from high aloft a tremendous +<pb n='55'/><anchor id='Pg055'/>explosion, followed by a second of dead quiet. A great mass of +rock had split off, and was descending towards us. My guide +started up, wrung his hands, and exclaimed, <q>O my God, we are +lost!</q> We heard it coming, mass after mass pouring over the +precipices, bounding and rebounding from cliff to cliff, and the +great rocks in advance smiting one another. They seemed to be +close, although they were probably distant, but some small fragments, +which dropped upon us at the same time from the ledges +just above, added to the alarm, and my demoralised companion +passed the remainder of the night in a state of shudder, ejaculating +<q>terrible,</q> and other adjectives. +</p> + +<p> +We put ourselves in motion at daybreak, and commenced the +ascent of the south-west ridge. There was no more sauntering with +hands in the pockets; each step had to be earned by downright +climbing. But it was the most pleasant kind of climbing. The +rocks were fast and unencumbered with débris; the cracks were +good, although not numerous, and there was nothing to fear except +from one’s-self. So we thought, at least, and shouted to awake +echoes from the cliffs. Ah! there is no response. Not yet; wait +a while, everything here is upon a superlative scale; count a dozen, +and then the echoes will return from the walls of the Dent d’Hérens, +miles away, in waves of pure and undefiled sound; soft, musical, +and sweet. Halt a moment to regard the view! We overlook the +Tête du Lion, and nothing except the Dent d’Hérens, whose summit +is still a thousand feet above us, stands in the way. The ranges +of the Graian Alps—an ocean of mountains—are seen, at a glance, +governed by their three great peaks, the Grivola, Grand Paradis, +and Tour de St. Pierre. How soft, and yet how sharp, they look +in the early morning! The mid-day mists have not begun to rise; +nothing is obscured; even the pointed Viso, all but a hundred +miles away, is perfectly defined. +</p> + +<p> +Turn to the east, and watch the sun’s slanting rays coming +across the Monte Rosa snow-fields. Look at the shadowed parts, +and see how even they—radiant with reflected light—are more +<pb n='56'/><anchor id='Pg056'/>brilliant than man knows how to depict. See, how—even there—the +gentle undulations give shadows within shadows; and how—yet +again—where falling stones or ice have left a track, there are +shadows upon shadows, each with a light and a dark side, with +infinite gradations of matchless tenderness. Then, note the sunlight +as it steals noiselessly along, and reveals countless unsuspected +forms;—the delicate ripple-lines which mark the concealed crevasse, +and the waves of drifted snow; producing each minute more lights +and fresh shadows; sparkling on the edges and glittering on the +ends of the icicles; shining on the heights and illuminating the +depths, until all is aglow, and the dazzled eye returns for relief to +the sombre crags. +</p> + +<p> +Hardly an hour had passed since we left the Col before we +arrived at the <q>Chimney.</q> It proved to be the counterpart of the +place to which reference has been made at <ref target="Pg003">p. 3</ref>; a smooth, straight +slab of rock was fixed, at a considerable angle, between two others +equally smooth.<note place="foot">Mr. Hawkins referred to this place as one of excessive difficulty. He, however, +found it coated with ice; we found it free from ice.</note> My companion essayed to go up, and, after +crumpling his long body into many ridiculous positions, he said +that he would not, for he could not, do it. With some little trouble +I got up it unassisted, and then my guide tied himself on to the +end of our rope, and I endeavoured to pull him up. But he was +so awkward that he did little for himself, and so heavy that he +proved too much for me, and after several attempts he untied himself, +and quietly observed that he should go down. I told him he +was a coward, and <hi rend='italic'>he</hi> mentioned his opinion of me. I requested +him to go to Breil, and to say that he had left his <q>monsieur</q> +on the mountain, and he turned to go; whereupon I had to eat +humble pie and ask him to come back; for, although it was not very +difficult to go up, and not at all dangerous with a man standing +below, it was quite another thing to come down, as the lower edge +overhung in a provoking manner. +</p> + +<p> +The day was perfect; the sun was pouring down grateful +<pb n='57'/><anchor id='Pg057'/>warmth; the wind had fallen; the way seemed clear, no insuperable +obstacle was in sight; yet what could one do alone? I stood +on the top, chafing under this unexpected contretemps, and remained +for some time irresolute; but as it became apparent that +the Chimney was swept more frequently than was necessary (it +was a natural channel for falling stones), I turned at last, descended +with the assistance of my companion, and returned with +him to Breil, where we arrived about mid-day. +</p> + +<p> +The Carrels did not show themselves, but we were told that +they had not got to any great height,<note place="foot">I learned afterwards from Jean-Antoine Carrel that they got considerably +higher than upon their previous attempts, and about 250 or 300 feet higher than +Professor Tyndall in 1860. In 1862 I saw the initials of J. A. Carrel cut on the +rocks at the place where he and his comrade had turned back.</note> and that the <q>comrade,</q> +who for convenience had taken off his shoes and tied them round +his waist, had managed to let one of them slip, and had come down +with a piece of cord fastened round his naked foot. Notwithstanding +this, they had boldly glissaded down the Couloir du +Lion, J. J. Carrel having his shoeless foot tied up in a pocket +handkerchief. +</p> + +<p> +The Matterhorn was not assailed again in 1861. I left Breil +with the conviction that it was little use for a single tourist to +organise an attack upon it, so great was its influence on the morals +of the guides, and persuaded that it was desirable at least two +should go, to back each other when required: and departed with +my guide<note place="foot">This man proved to be both willing and useful on lower ground, and voluntarily +accompanied me a considerable distance out of his way, without fee or reward.</note> over the Col Théodule, longing, more than before, to +make the ascent, and determined to return, if possible with a +companion, to lay siege to the mountain until one or the other +was vanquished. +</p> +</div><div type="chapter" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='58'/><anchor id='Pg058'/> +<index index="toc" level1="Chapter IV. Renewed attempts to ascend the Matterhorn"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Chapter IV. Renewed attempts to ascend the Matterhorn"/> +<head>CHAPTER IV.</head> + +<head type="sub">RENEWED ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN.</head> + +<epigraph><lg> +<l><q rend="post: none">’Tis a lesson you should heed,</q></l> +<l rend='margin-left: 4'>Try, try, try again.</l> +<l>If at first you don’t succeed,</l> +<l rend='margin-left: 4'>Try, try, try again.</l> +<l>Then your courage should appear,</l> +<l>For if you will persevere</l> +<l>You will conquer, never fear.</l> +<l rend='margin-left: 4'><q rend="pre: none">Try, try, try again.</q></l> +<l rend="margin-left: 12"><hi rend='smallcaps'>Hickson.</hi></l> +</lg></epigraph> + +<p> +The year 1862 was still young, and the Matterhorn, clad in its +wintry garb, bore but little resemblance to the Matterhorn of the +summer, when a new force came to do battle with the mountain, +from another direction. Mr. T. S. Kennedy of Leeds conceived the +extraordinary idea that the peak might prove less impracticable in +January than in June, and arrived at Zermatt in the former month +to put his conception to the test. With stout Peter Perrn and +sturdy Peter Taugwalder he slept in the little chapel at the +Schwarzensee, and on the next morning, like the Messrs. Parker, +followed the ridge between the peak called Hörnli and the great +mountain. But they found that snow in winter obeyed the ordinary +laws, and that the wind and frost were not less unkind than +in summer. <q>The wind whirled up the snow and spiculæ of ice +into our faces like needles, and flat pieces of ice a foot in diameter, +carried up from the glacier below, went flying past. Still no one +seemed to like to be the first to give in, till a gust fiercer than usual +forced us to shelter for a time behind a rock. Immediately it was +tacitly understood that our expedition must now end; but we +<pb n='59'/><anchor id='Pg059'/>determined to leave some memento of our visit, and, after descending +a considerable distance, we found a suitable place with loose +stones of which to build a cairn. In half-an-hour a tower six feet +high was erected; a bottle, with the date, was placed inside, and +we retreated as rapidly as possible.</q><note place="foot"><hi rend='italic'>Alpine Journal</hi>, 1863, p. 82.</note> This cairn was placed at the +spot marked upon Dufour’s Map of Switzerland 10,820 feet (3298 +mètres), and the highest point attained by Mr. Kennedy was not, I +imagine, more than two or three hundred feet above it. +</p> + +<p> +Shortly after this Professor Tyndall gave, in his little tract +<hi rend='italic'>Mountaineering in 1861</hi>, an account of the reason why he had +left Breil, in August 1861, without doing anything.<note place="foot">See <ref target="Pg049">p. 49</ref>.</note> It seems +that he sent his guide Bennen to reconnoitre, and that the latter +made the following report to his employer:—<q>Herr, I have +examined the mountain carefully, and find it more difficult and +dangerous than I had imagined. There is no place upon it where +we could well pass the night. We might do so on yonder Col upon +the snow, but there we should be almost frozen to death, and +totally unfit for the work of the next day. On the rocks there is +no ledge or cranny which could give us proper harbourage; and +starting from Breuil it is certainly impossible to reach the summit +in a single day.</q> <q>I was entirely taken aback,</q> says Tyndall, +<q>by this report. I felt like a man whose grip had given way, and +who was dropping through the air.... Bennen was evidently +dead against any attempt upon the mountain. <q>We can, at all +events, reach the lower of the two summits,</q> I remarked. <q>Even +that is difficult,</q> he replied; <q>but when you have reached it, what +then? The peak has neither name nor fame.</q></q><note place="foot"><hi rend='italic'>Mountaineering in 1861</hi>, pp. 86-7. Tyndall and Bennen were mistaken in +supposing that the mountain has two summits; it has only one. They seem to have +been deceived by the appearance of that part of the south-west ridge which is called +<q>the shoulder</q> (l’épaule), as seen from Breil. Viewed from that place, its southern +end has certainly, through foreshortening, the semblance of a peak; but when one +regards it from the Col Théodule, or from any place in the same direction, the +delusion is at once apparent.</note> +</p> + +<pb n='60'/><anchor id='Pg060'/> + +<p> +I was more surprised than discouraged by this report by +Bennen. One half of his assertions I knew to be wrong. The Col +to which he referred was the Col du Lion, upon which we had +passed a night less than a week after he had spoken so authoritatively; +and I had seen a place not far below the <q>Chimney,</q>—a +place about 500 feet above the Col—where it seemed possible +to construct a sleeping-place. Bennen’s opinions seem to have +undergone a complete change. In 1860 he is described as having +been enthusiastic to make an attempt, and in 1861 he was dead +against one. Nothing dismayed by this, my friend Mr. Reginald +Macdonald, our companion on the Pelvoux—to whom so much of +our success had been due, agreed to join me in a renewed assault +from the south; and, although we failed to secure Melchior Anderegg +and some other notable guides, we obtained two men of repute, +namely, Johann zum Taugwald and Johann Kronig, of Zermatt. +We met at that place early in July, but stormy weather prevented +us even from passing to the other side of the chain for some time. +We crossed the Col Théodule on the 5th, in thoroughly unsettled +weather—rain was falling in the valleys, and snow upon the +mountains. Shortly before we gained the summit we were made +extremely uncomfortable by hearing mysterious, rushing sounds, +which sometimes seemed as if a sudden gust of wind was sweeping +along the snow, and, at others, almost like the swishing of a long +whip: yet the snow exhibited no signs of motion, and the air was +perfectly calm. The dense, black storm-clouds made us momentarily +expect that our bodies might be used as lightning-conductors, and +we were well satisfied to get under shelter of the inn at Breil, +without having submitted to any such experience.<note place="foot">The late Principal Forbes was similarly situated while crossing the same pass +in 1842. He described the sounds as rustling, fizzing, and hissing. See his <hi rend='italic'>Travels +in the Alps of Savoy</hi>, second ed., p. 323. Mr. R. Spence Watson experienced the +same upon the upper part of the Aletsch glacier in July 1863, and he spoke of the +sounds as singing or hissing. See the <hi rend='italic'>Athenæum</hi>, Sept. 12, 1863. The respective +parties seem to have been highly electrified on each occasion. Forbes says that his +fingers <q>yielded a fizzing sound;</q> and Watson says that his <q>hair stood on end in +an uncomfortable but very amusing manner,</q> and that <q>the veil on the wide-awake +of one of the party stood upright in the air!</q></note> +</p> + +<pb n='61'/><anchor id='Pg061'/> + +<p> +We had need of a porter, and, by the advice of our landlord, +descended to the chalets of Breil in search of one Luc Meynet. We +found his house a mean abode, encumbered with cheese-making +apparatus, and tenanted only by some bright-eyed children; but as +they said that uncle Luc would soon be home, we waited at the +door of the little chalet and watched for him. At last a speck was +seen coming round the corner of the patch of firs below Breil, +and then the children clapped their hands, dropped their toys, and +ran eagerly forward to meet him. We saw an ungainly, wobbling +figure stoop down and catch up the little ones, kiss them on each +cheek, and put them into the empty panniers on each side of the +mule, and then heard it come on carolling, as if this was not a world +of woe: and yet the face of little Luc Meynet, the hunchback of +Breil, bore traces of trouble and sorrow, and there was more than a +touch of sadness in his voice when he said that he must look after +his brother’s children. All his difficulties were, however, at length +overcome, and he agreed to join us to carry the tent. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +In the past winter I had turned my attention to tents, and +that which we had brought with us was the result of experiments +to devise one which should be sufficiently portable to be taken +over the most difficult ground, and which should combine lightness +with stability. Its base was just under six feet square, and a cross-section +perpendicular to its length was an equilateral triangle, the +sides of which were six feet long. It was intended to accommodate +four persons. It was supported by four ash-poles, six feet and a +half long, and one inch and a quarter thick, tapering to the top to +an inch and an eighth; these were shod with iron points. The +order of proceeding in the construction of the tent was as follows:—Holes +were drilled through the poles about five inches from their +tops, for the insertion of two wrought-iron bolts, three inches long +<pb n='62'/><anchor id='Pg062'/>and one quarter of an inch thick. The bolts were then inserted, +and the two pairs of poles were set out (and +fixed up by cords), to the proper dimensions. +The roof was then put on. This was made of +the rough, unbleached calico called forfar, +which can be obtained in six-feet widths, +and it was continued round for about two +feet, on each side, on to the floor. The +width of the material was the length of the tent, and seams were +thus avoided in the roof. The forfar was sewn round each pole; +particular care being taken to avoid wrinkles, and to get the whole +perfectly taut. The flooring was next put in and sewn down to +the forfar. This was of the ordinary plaid mackintosh, about nine +feet square; the surplus three feet being continued up the sides to +<pb n='63'/><anchor id='Pg063'/>prevent draughts. It is as well to have two feet of this surplus on +one side, and only one foot on the other; the latter amount being +sufficient for the side occupied by the feet. One end was then +permanently closed by a triangular piece of forfar, which was sewn +down to that which was already fixed. The other end was left +open, and had two triangular flaps that overlapped each other, and +which were fastened up when we were inside by pieces of tape. +Lastly, the forfar was nailed down to the poles to prevent the tent +getting out of shape. The cord which was used for climbing served +for the tent; it was passed over the crossed poles and underneath +the ridge of the roof, and the two ends—one fore and the other +aft—were easily secured to pieces of rock. Such a tent costs about +four guineas, and its weight is about twenty-three pounds; or, if +the lightest kind of forfar is used, it need not exceed twenty +pounds. When it was fastened up for transport it presented the +appearance shown in the portrait of Meynet at <ref target="fig66">p. 234</ref>, and it could +be unrolled and set up by two persons in three minutes; a point +of no small importance during extreme weather. +</p><anchor id="fig27"/> + <figure url="images/illus089a.png" rend="w40"><figDesc>Illustration: Diagram to show manner of fastening tent-poles</figDesc></figure> +<anchor id="fig28"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE AUTHOR’S MOUNTAIN TENT.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus089b.png" rend="w80"><head rend="ill">THE AUTHOR’S MOUNTAIN TENT.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: The author’s mountain tent</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +This tent is intended, and adapted, for camping out at high altitudes, +or in cold climates. It is not pretended that it is perfectly +waterproof, but it can be made so by the addition of mackintosh to +the roof; and this increases the weight by only two and a half pounds. +It is then fit for general use.<note place="foot">I have described this tent at length, as frequent application has been made to me +for information on the subject. I would strongly recommend any person who wishes +to have one for long-continued use, to have one made under his own eye, and to be +particularly careful to test the poles. My experience goes to show that poles which +(when supported upon their extremities) will bear a dead weight of 100 lbs. suspended +from their centres, will stand any wind to which they are likely to be submitted. +Ash is, perhaps, the best wood that can be selected. Tents of this pattern have been +used, amongst others, by Messrs. Freshfield, Moore, and Tucker, in the Caucasus; +by the Rev. W. H. Hawker in Corsica; and by myself in Greenland.</note> It may be observed that the pattern +of this tent is identical in all essential points with that arrived at +(after great experience) by Sir Leopold M’Clintock for Arctic work, +and frequent use by many persons, under varied conditions, has +shown that the pattern is both practical and substantial. +</p> + +<pb n='64'/><anchor id='Pg064'/> + +<p> +Sunday, the 6th of July, was showery, and snow fell on the +Matterhorn, but we started on the following morning with our three +men, and pursued my route of the previous year. I was requested +to direct the way, as none save myself had been on the mountain +before. I did not distinguish myself upon this occasion, and led +my companions nearly to the top of the small peak before the mistake +was discovered. The party becoming rebellious, a little exploration +was made towards our right, and we found that we were upon +the top of the cliff overlooking the Col du Lion. The upper part of +the small peak is of a very different character to the lower part; the +rocks are not so firm, and they are usually covered, or intermixed, +with snow, and glazed with ice: the angle too is more severe. +While descending a small snow-slope, to get on to the right track, +Kronig slipped on a streak of ice, and went down at a fearful pace. +Fortunately he kept on his legs, and, by a great effort, succeeded in +stopping just before he arrived at some rocks that jutted through +the snow, which would infallibly have knocked him over. When +we rejoined him a few minutes later, we found that he was incapable +of standing, much less of moving, with a face corpse-like in hue, +and trembling violently. He remained in this condition for more +than an hour, and the day was consequently far advanced before we +arrived at our camping-place on the Col. Profiting by the experience +of last year, we did not pitch the tent actually on the snow, but +collected a quantity of débris from the neighbouring ledges, and +after constructing a rough platform of the larger pieces, levelled +the whole with the dirt and mud. +</p> + +<p> +Meynet had proved invaluable as a tent-bearer; for—although +his legs were more picturesque than symmetrical, and although he +seemed to be built on principle with no two parts alike—his very +deformities proved of service; and we quickly found he had spirit +of no common order, and that few peasants are more agreeable +companions, or better climbers, than little Luc Meynet, the +hunchback of Breil. He now showed himself not less serviceable +as a scavenger, and humbly asked for gristly pieces of meat, +<pb n='65'/><anchor id='Pg065'/>rejected by the others, or for suspicious eggs; and seemed to consider +it a peculiar favour, if not a treat, to be permitted to drink +the coffee-grounds. With the greatest contentment he took the +worst place at the door of the tent, and did all the dirty work +which was put upon him by the guides, as gratefully as a dog—who +has been well beaten—will receive a stroke. +</p> + +<p> +A strong wind sprang up from the east during the night, and +in the morning it was blowing almost a hurricane. The tent +behaved nobly, and we remained under its shelter for several hours +after the sun had risen, uncertain what it was best to do. A lull +tempted us to move, but we had scarcely ascended a hundred feet +before the storm burst upon us with increased fury. Advance or +return was alike impossible; the ridge was denuded of its débris; +and we clutched our hardest when we saw stones as big as a man’s +fist blown away horizontally into space. We dared not attempt +to stand upright, and remained stationary, on all fours, glued, as it +were, to the rocks. It was intensely cold, for the blast had swept +along the main chain of the Pennine Alps, and across the great +snow-fields around Monte Rosa. Our warmth and courage rapidly +evaporated, and at the next lull we retreated to the tent; having +to halt several times even in that short distance. Taugwald and +Kronig then declared that they had had enough, and refused to +have anything more to do with the mountain. Meynet also +informed us that he would be required down below for important +cheese-making operations on the following day. It was therefore +needful to return to Breil, and we arrived there at 2.30 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi>, +extremely chagrined at our complete defeat. +</p> + +<p> +Jean-Antoine Carrel, attracted by rumours, had come up to the +inn during our absence, and after some negotiations agreed to +accompany us, with one of his friends named Pession, on the first +fine day. We thought ourselves fortunate; for Carrel clearly +considered the mountain a kind of <hi rend='italic'>preserve</hi>, and regarded our late +attempt as an act of <hi rend='italic'>poaching</hi>. The wind blew itself out during +the night, and we started again, with these two men and a porter, +<pb n='66'/><anchor id='Pg066'/>at 8 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> on the 9th, with unexceptionable weather. Carrel pleased +us by suggesting that we should camp even higher than before; and +we accordingly proceeded, without resting at the Col, until we +overtopped the Tête du Lion. Near the foot of the <q>Chimney,</q> a +little below the crest of the ridge, and on its eastern side, we found +a protected place; and by building up from ledge to ledge (under +the direction of our leader, who was a mason by profession), we at +length constructed a platform of sufficient size and of considerable +solidity. Its height was about 12,550 feet above the sea; and it +exists, I believe, at the present time.<note place="foot">The heights given on the <ref target="plate02">outlines of the Matterhorn + accompanying Chap. III.</ref>, +on the <ref target="plate14">geological section in the Appendix</ref>, and quoted throughout the book, are after +the barometric (mercurial) measurements of Signor F. Giordano in 1866 and 1868. +I have ventured to differ from him only in regard to the height of the second tent-platform, +and have assigned to it a somewhat lower elevation than his estimate.</note> We then pushed on, as the +day was very fine, and, after a short hour’s scramble, got to the foot +of the Great Tower upon the ridge (that is to say, to Mr. Hawkins’ +farthest point), and afterwards returned to our bivouac. We +turned out again at 4 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi>, and at 5.15 started upwards once more, +with fine weather and the thermometer at 28°. Carrel scrambled +up the Chimney, and Macdonald and I after him. Pession’s turn +came, but when he arrived at the top he looked very ill, declared +himself to be thoroughly incapable, and said that he must go back. +We waited some time, but he did not get better, neither could we +learn the nature of his illness. Carrel flatly refused to go on with +us alone. We were helpless. Macdonald, ever the coolest of the +cool, suggested that we should try what we could do without them; +but our better judgment prevailed, and, finally, we returned together +to Breil. On the next day my friend started for London. +</p> + +<p> +Three times I had essayed the ascent of this mountain, and on +each occasion had failed ignominiously. I had not advanced a +yard beyond my predecessors. Up to the height of nearly 13,000 +feet there were no extraordinary difficulties; the way so far might +even become <q>a matter of amusement.</q> Only 1800 feet remained; +but they were as yet untrodden, and might present the most +for<pb n='67'/><anchor id='Pg067'/>midable obstacles. No man could expect to climb them by himself. +A morsel of rock only seven feet high might at any time defeat him, +if it were perpendicular. Such a place might be possible to two, +or a bagatelle to three men. It was evident that a party should +consist of three men at least. But where could the other two +men be obtained? Carrel was the only man who exhibited any +enthusiasm in the matter; and he, in 1861, had absolutely refused +to go unless the party consisted of at least <hi rend='italic'>four</hi> persons. Want +of men made the difficulty, not the mountain. +</p> + +<p> +The weather became bad again, so I went to Zermatt on the +chance of picking up a man, and remained there during a week of +storms.<note place="foot">During this time making the ascent of Monte Rosa.</note> Not one of the better men, however, could be induced to +come, and I returned to Breil on the 17th, hoping to combine the +skill of Carrel with the willingness of Meynet on a new attempt, +by the same route as before; for the Hörnli ridge, which I had +examined in the meantime, seemed to be entirely impracticable. +Both men were inclined to go, but their ordinary occupations +prevented them from starting at once.<note place="foot">They were not guides by profession.</note> +</p> + +<p> +My tent had been left rolled up at the second platform, and +whilst waiting for the men it occurred to me that it might have +been blown away during the late stormy weather; so I started off +on the 18th to see if this were so or not. The way was by this +time familiar, and I mounted rapidly, astonishing the friendly +herdsmen—who nodded recognition as I flitted past them and the +cows—for I was alone, because no man was available. But more +deliberation was necessary when the pastures were passed, and +climbing began, for it was needful to mark each step, in case of mist, +or surprise by night. It is one of the few things which can be said +in favour of mountaineering alone (a practice which has little besides +to commend it), that it awakens a man’s faculties, and makes +him observe. When one has no arms to help, and no head to guide +him except his own, he must needs take note even of small things, +<pb n='68'/><anchor id='Pg068'/>for he cannot afford to throw away a chance; and so it came to +pass, upon my solitary scramble, when above the snow-line, and +beyond the ordinary limits of flowering plants, when peering about, +noting angles and landmarks, that my eyes fell upon the tiny +straggling plants—oftentimes a single flower on a single stalk—pioneers +of vegetation, atoms of life in a world of desolation, which +had found their way up—who can tell how?—from far below, and +were obtaining bare sustenance from the scanty soil in protected +nooks; and it gave a new interest to the well-known rocks to see +what a gallant fight the survivors made (for many must have +perished in the attempt) to ascend the great mountain. The +Gentian, as one might have expected, was there; but it was run +close by Saxifrages, and by <hi rend='italic'>Linaria alpina</hi>, and was beaten by +<hi rend='italic'>Thlaspi rotundifolium</hi>, which latter plant was the highest I was +able to secure, although it too was overtopped by a little white +flower which I knew not, and was unable to reach.<note place="foot"><p> +Those which I collected were as follow:—<hi rend='italic'>Myosotis alpestris</hi>, Gm.; <hi rend='italic'>Veronica +alpina</hi>, L.; <hi rend='italic'>Linaria alpina</hi>, M.; <hi rend='italic'>Gentiana Bavarica</hi>, L.; <hi rend='italic'>Thlaspi rotundifolium</hi>, +Gaud.; <hi rend='italic'>Silene acaulis</hi>, L. (?); <hi rend='italic'>Potentilla</hi> sp.; <hi rend='italic'>Saxifraga</hi> sp.; <hi rend='italic'>Saxifraga muscoides</hi>, +Wulf. I am indebted for these names to Mr. William Carruthers of the British +Museum. These plants ranged from about 10,500 to a little below 13,000 feet, and +are the highest which I have seen anywhere in the Alps. Several times this number +of species might be collected, I have no doubt, within these limits. I was not +endeavouring to make a <hi rend='italic'>flora</hi> of the Matterhorn, but to obtain those plants which +attained the greatest height. Very few lichens are seen on the higher parts of this +mountain; their rarity is due, doubtless, to the constant disintegration of the rocks, +and the consequent exposure of fresh surfaces. <hi rend='italic'>Silene acaulis</hi> was the highest plant +found by De Saussure on his travels in the Alps. He mentions (§ 2018) that he +found a tuft <q>near the place where I slept on my return (from the ascent of Mont +Blanc), about 1780 toises (11,388 feet) above the level of the sea.</q> +</p> + +<p> +Mr. William Mathews and Mr. Charles Packe, who have botanised respectively +for many years in the Alps and Pyrenees, have favoured me with the names of the +highest plants that they have obtained upon their excursions. Their lists, although +not extensive, are interesting as showing the extreme limits attained by some of the +hardiest of Alpine plants. Those mentioned by Mr. Mathews are—<hi rend='italic'>Campanula +renisia</hi> (on the Grivola, 12,047 feet); <hi rend='italic'>Saxifraga bryoides</hi> and <hi rend='italic'>Androsace glacialis</hi> +(on the summits of Mont Emilius, 11,677, and the Ruitor, 11,480); <hi rend='italic'>Ranunculus + glacialis</hi>, <hi rend='italic'>Armeria alpina</hi>, and <hi rend='italic'>Pyrethrum alpinum</hi> (on Monte Viso, from 10,000 to +10,500 feet); <hi rend='italic'>Thlaspi rotundifolium</hi> and <hi rend='italic'>Saxifraga biflora</hi> (Monte Viso, about +9500 feet); and <hi rend='italic'>Campanula rotundifolia</hi> (?), <hi rend='italic'>Artemisia spicata</hi> (Wulf.), <hi rend='italic'>Aronicum +Doronicum</hi>, and <hi rend='italic'>Petrocallis Pyrenaica</hi> (Col de Seylières, 9247). +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Packe obtained, on or close to the summit of the Pic de Mulhahacen, Sierra +Nevada, of Granada (11,600 to 11,700 feet), <hi rend='italic'>Papaver alpinum</hi> (var. <hi rend='italic'>Pyrenaicum</hi>), +<hi rend='italic'>Artemisia Nevadensis</hi> (used for giving the flavour to the Manzanilla sherry), <hi rend='italic'>Viola +Nevadensis</hi>, <hi rend='italic'>Galium Pyrenaicum</hi>, <hi rend='italic'>Trisetum glaciale</hi>, <hi rend='italic'>Festuca Clementei</hi>, <hi rend='italic'>Saxifraga +GrÅ“nlandica</hi> (var. <hi rend='italic'>Mista</hi>), <hi rend='italic'>Erigeron alpinum</hi> (var. <hi rend='italic'>glaciale</hi>), and <hi rend='italic'>Arenaria tetraquetra</hi>. +On the Picacho de Veleta (11,440 feet), and on the Alcazaba (11,350), the same plants +were obtained, with the exception of the first named. At a height of 11,150 feet on +these mountains he also collected <hi rend='italic'>Ptilotrichum purpureum</hi>, <hi rend='italic'>Lepidium stylatum</hi>, and +<hi rend='italic'>Biscutella saxatilis</hi>; and, at 10,000 feet, <hi rend='italic'>Alyssum spicatum</hi> and <hi rend='italic'>Sideritis scordiodes</hi>. +Mr. Packe mentions the following plants as occurring at 9000 to 10,000 feet in the +Pyrenees:—<hi rend='italic'>Cerastium latifolium</hi>, <hi rend='italic'>Draba Wahlenbergii</hi>, <hi rend='italic'>Hutchinsia alpina</hi>, <hi rend='italic'>Linaria +alpina</hi>, <hi rend='italic'>Oxyria reniformis</hi>, <hi rend='italic'>Ranunculus glacialis</hi>, <hi rend='italic'>Saxifraga nervosa</hi>, <hi rend='italic'>S. oppositifolia</hi>, +<hi rend='italic'>S. GrÅ“nlandica</hi>, <hi rend='italic'>Statice Armeria</hi>, <hi rend='italic'>Veronica alpina</hi>. +</p> + +<p> +Information on the botany of the Val Tournanche is contained in the little pamphlet +by the late Canon G. Carrel, entitled <hi rend='italic'>La Vallée de Valtornenche en 1867</hi>; and +a list of the plants which have hitherto been collected on the glacier-surrounded ridge +(Furgen Grat) connecting the Matterhorn with the Col Théodule, will be found in +Dollfus-Ausset’s <hi rend='italic'>Matériaux pour l’étude des Glaciers</hi>, vol. viii. part first, 1868. In the +<hi rend='italic'>Jahrbuch</hi> for 1873 of the Swiss Alpine Club it is stated that on an ascent of the +Finsteraarhorn (14,106 feet) the following were collected within the last 1000 feet:—<hi rend='italic'>Saxifraga +bryoides</hi>, <hi rend='italic'>S. Muscoides</hi>, <hi rend='italic'>Achillea atrata</hi>, and <hi rend='italic'>Ranunculus glacialis</hi>. +</p></note> +</p> + +<p> +The tent was safe, although snowed up; and I turned to +con<pb n='69'/><anchor id='Pg069'/>template the view, which, when seen alone and undisturbed, had +all the strength and charm of complete novelty. The highest +peaks of the Pennine chain were in front—the Breithorn (13,685 +feet), the Lyskamm (14,889), and Monte Rosa (15,217); then, turning +to the right, the entire block of mountains which separated the +Val Tournanche from the Val d’Ayas was seen at a glance, with +its dominating summit the Grand Tournalin (11,155). Behind +were the ranges dividing the Val d’Ayas from the Valley of Gressoney, +backed by higher summits. More still to the right, the eye +wandered down the entire length of the Val Tournanche, and then +rested upon the Graian Alps with their innumerable peaks, and +upon the isolated pyramid of Monte Viso (12,643) in the extreme +distance. Next, still turning to the right, came the mountains +<pb n='70'/><anchor id='Pg070'/>intervening between the Val Tournanche and the Val Barthélemy: +Mont Rouss (a round-topped snowy summit, which seems so important +from Breil, but which is in reality only a buttress of the higher +mountain, the Château des Dames), had long ago sunk, and the eye +passed over it, scarcely heeding its existence, to the Becca Salle (or, +as it is sometimes called, Bec de Sale),—a miniature Matterhorn—and +to other, and more important heights. Then the grand mass +of the Dent d’Hérens (13,714) stopped the way; a noble mountain, +encrusted on its northern slopes with enormous hanging glaciers, +which broke away at mid-day in immense slices, and thundered +down on to the Tiefenmatten glacier; and lastly, most splendid of +all, came the Dent Blanche (14,318), soaring above the basin of +the great Z’Muttgletscher. Such a view is hardly to be excelled +in the Alps, and <hi rend='italic'>this</hi> view is very rarely seen, as I saw it, perfectly +unclouded.<note place="foot"><anchor id="notepg070"/>I have already had occasion to mention the rapid changes which occur in the +weather at considerable elevations in the Alps, and shall have to do so again in subsequent +chapters. No one can regret more than myself the variable weather which +afflicts that otherwise delightful chain of mountains, or the necessity of speaking +about it: its summits appear to enjoy more than their fair share of wind and +tempests. Meteorological disturbances, some would say, are by no means necessary +accompaniments of high regions. There are some happy places which are said to be +favoured with almost perpetual calm. Take the case of the Sierra Nevada of California, +for example, which includes numerous summits from 13,000 to 15,000 feet. +Mr. Whitney, of San Francisco, says (in his <hi rend='italic'>Guide-book to the Yosemite Valley, and the +adjacent region</hi>), <q>At high altitudes, all through the mountains, the weather during +the summer is almost always the finest possible for travelling. There are occasional +storms in the high mountains; but, in ordinary seasons, these are quite rare, and one +of the greatest drawbacks to the pleasure of travelling in the Alps, the uncertainty of +the weather, is here almost entirely wanting.</q> It is probable that a more thorough +acquaintance with that region will modify this opinion; for it must be admitted that +it is very difficult to judge of the state of the atmosphere at great heights from the +valleys, and it often occurs that a terrific storm is raging above when there is a dead +calm below, at a distance perhaps of not more than three or four miles. A case of this +kind is described in <ref target="Pg114">Chapter VI.</ref>, and another may be mentioned here. At the very time +that I was regarding the Dent Blanche from a height of 12,550 feet on the Matterhorn, +Mr. T. S. Kennedy was engaged in making the first ascent of the former mountain. +He described his ascent in a very picturesque paper in the <hi rend='italic'>Alpine Journal</hi> (1863), and +I learn from it that he experienced severe weather. <q>The wind roared over our ridge, +making fearfully wild music among the desolate crags.... It rendered an ordinary +voice inaudible,</q> and <q>nothing at a distance greater than fifty yards could be seen +at all.... Thick mists and driving clouds of snow swept over and past us;</q> the +thermometer fell to 20° Fahr., and his companion’s hair became a mass of white icicles. +Now, at this time, Mr. Kennedy was distant from me only four and a half miles. +With me, and in my immediate neighbourhood, the air was perfectly calm, and the +temperature was agreeably warm; even during the night it fell only two or three +degrees below freezing-point. During most of the day the Dent Blanche was +perfectly unclouded, though, for a time, light fleecy clouds were hovering about its +upper 2000 feet. Still no one would have supposed from appearances that my friend +was experiencing a storm such as he has described.</note> +</p> + +<pb n='71'/><anchor id='Pg071'/> + +<p> +Time sped away unregarded, and the little birds which had built +their nests on the neighbouring cliffs had begun to chirp their +evening hymn before I thought of returning. Half mechanically I +turned to the tent, unrolled it, and set it up; it contained food +enough for several days, and I resolved to stay over the night. I +had started from Breil without provisions, or telling Favre—the +innkeeper, who was accustomed to my erratic ways—where I was +going. I returned to the view. The sun was setting, and its rosy +rays, blending with the snowy blue, had thrown a pale, pure violet +far as the eye could see; the valleys were drowned in purple +gloom, whilst the summits shone with unnatural brightness: and +as I sat in the door of the tent, and watched the twilight change +to darkness, the earth seemed to become less earthy and almost +sublime; the world seemed dead, and I, its sole inhabitant. By and +by, the moon as it rose brought the hills again into sight, and by +a judicious repression of detail rendered the view yet more magnificent. +Something in the south hung like a great glow-worm in the +air; it was too large for a star, and too steady for a meteor; and it +was long before I could realise the incredible fact that it was the +moonlight glittering on the great snow-slope on the north side of +Monte Viso, at a distance, as the crow flies, of 98 miles. Shivering, +at last I entered the tent and made my coffee. The night was +passed comfortably, and the next morning, tempted by the brilliancy +of the weather, I proceeded yet higher in search of another +place for a platform. +</p> +<pb n='72'/><anchor id='Pg072'/> +<anchor id="fig29"/><figure url="images/illus099.png" rend="w40"><figDesc>Illustration: Climbing claw</figDesc></figure> +<p> +Solitary scrambling over a pretty wide area had shown me that +a single individual is subjected to many difficulties which do not +trouble a party of two or three men, +and that the disadvantages of being +alone are more felt while descending +than during the ascent. In order +to neutralise these inconveniences, I +devised two little appliances, which +were now brought into use for the +first time. One was a claw—a kind of grapnel—about +five inches long, made of shear steel, +one-fifth of an inch thick. This was of use in difficult places, +where there was no hold within arm’s length, but where +there were cracks or ledges some distance higher. The +claw could be stuck on the end of the alpenstock and dropped into +such places, or, on extreme occasions, flung up until it attached itself +to something. The edges that laid hold of the rocks were serrated, +which tended to make them catch more readily: the other end had +a ring to which a rope was fastened. It must not be understood +that this was employed for hauling one’s-self up for any great distance, +but that it was used in ascending, at the most, for only a few +yards at a time. In descending, however, it could be prudently +used for a greater distance at a time, as the claws could be planted +firmly; but it was necessary to keep the rope taut, and the pull +constantly in the direction of the length of the implement, otherwise +it had a tendency to slip away. The second device was +merely a modification of a dodge practised by all climbers. It is +frequently necessary for a single man (or for the last man of a party) +during a descent, to make a loop in the end of his rope, to pass +it over some rocks, and to come down holding the free end. The +loop is then jerked off, and the process may be repeated. But as +it sometimes happens that there are no rocks at hand which will +allow a loose loop to be used, a slip-knot has to be resorted to, and +the rope is drawn in tightly. Consequently it will occur that it is +<pb n='73'/><anchor id='Pg073'/>not possible to jerk the loop off, and the rope has to be cut and left +behind. To prevent this, I had a wrought-iron +ring (two and a quarter inches in diameter +and three-eighths of an inch thick) +attached to one end of my rope. A loop +could be made in a moment by passing the +other end of the rope through this ring, +which of course slipped up and held tightly +as I descended holding the free end. A +strong piece of cord was also attached to +the ring, and, on arriving at the bottom, +this was pulled; the ring slid back again, +and the loop was whipped off readily. By +means of these two simple appliances I was +able to ascend and descend rocks, which +otherwise would have been completely impassable +for a single person. The combined weight of these two +things amounted to less than half-a-pound. +</p><anchor id="fig30"/> +<figure url="images/illus100.png" rend="w40"><figDesc>Illustration: Rope and rin</figDesc></figure> +<p> +It has been mentioned (<ref target="Pg055">p. 55</ref>) that the rocks of the south-west +ridge are by no means difficult for some distance above the Col du +Lion. This is true of the rocks up to the level of the Chimney, but +they steepen when that is passed, and remaining smooth and with +but few fractures, and still continuing to dip outwards, present +some steps of a very uncertain kind, particularly when they are +glazed with ice. At this point (just above the Chimney) the climber +is obliged to follow the southern (or Breil) side of the ridge, but, +in a few feet more, one must turn over to the northern (or Z’Mutt) +side, where, in most years, nature kindly provides a snow-slope. +When this is surmounted, one can again return to the crest of the +ridge, and follow it, by easy rocks, to the foot of the Great Tower. +This was the highest point attained by Mr. Hawkins in 1860, and +it was also our highest on the 9th of July. +</p> + +<p> +This Great Tower is one of the most striking features of the +ridge. It stands out like a turret at the angle of a castle. Behind +<pb n='74'/><anchor id='Pg074'/>it a battlemented wall leads upwards to the citadel.<note place="foot">See the engraving <ref target="plate08"><q>Crags of the Matterhorn,</q> facing p. 120</ref>.</note> Seen from +the Théodule pass, it looks only an insignificant pinnacle, but as +one approaches it (on the ridge) so it seems to rise, and, when one +is at its base, it completely conceals the upper parts of the mountain. +I found here a suitable place for the tent; which, although +not so well protected as the second platform, possessed the advantage +of being 300 feet higher up; and fascinated by the wildness +of the cliffs, and enticed by the perfection of the weather, I went +on to see what was behind. +</p> + +<p> +The first step was a difficult one. The ridge became diminished +to the least possible width—it was hard to keep one’s balance—and +just where it was narrowest, a more than perpendicular mass barred +the way. Nothing fairly within arm’s reach could be laid hold of; +it was necessary to spring up, and then to haul one’s-self over the +sharp edge by sheer strength. Progression directly upwards was +then impossible. Enormous and appalling precipices plunged +down to the Tiefenmatten glacier on the left, but round the right-hand +side it was just possible to go. One hindrance then succeeded +another, and much time was consumed in seeking the way. I have +a vivid recollection of a gully of more than usual perplexity at the +side of the Great Tower, with minute ledges and steep walls; of +the ledges dwindling down and at last ceasing; and of finding +myself, with arms and legs divergent, fixed as if crucified, pressing +against the rock, and feeling each rise and fall of my chest as I +breathed; of screwing my head round to look for hold, and not +seeing any, and of jumping sideways on to the other side. ’Tis +vain to attempt to describe such places. Whether they are sketched +with a light hand, or wrought out in laborious detail, one stands an +equal chance of being misunderstood. Their enchantment to the +climber arises from their calls on his faculties, in their demands +on his strength, and on overcoming the impediments which they +oppose to his skill. The non-mountaineering reader cannot feel +this, and his interest in descriptions of such places is usually small, +<pb n='75'/><anchor id='Pg075'/>unless he supposes that the situations are perilous. They are not +necessarily perilous, but I think that it is impossible to avoid giving +such an impression if the difficulties are particularly insisted upon. +</p> + +<p> +About this part there was a change in the quality of the rock, +and there was a change in the general appearance of the ridge. +The rocks (talcose gneiss) below this spot were singularly firm; it +was rarely necessary to test one’s hold; the way led over the living +rock, and not up rent-off fragments. But here, all was decay and +ruin. The crest of the ridge was shattered and cleft, and the feet +sank in the chips which had drifted down; while above, huge +blocks, hacked and carved by the hand of time, nodded to the sky, +looking like the grave-stones of giants. Out of curiosity I wandered +to a notch in the ridge, between two tottering piles of immense +masses, which seemed to need but a few pounds on one or +the other side to make them fall; so nicely poised that they would +literally have rocked in the wind, for they were put in motion by +a touch; and based on support so frail that I wondered they did +not collapse before my eyes. In the whole range of my Alpine +experience I have seen nothing more striking than this desolate, +ruined, and shattered ridge at the back of the Great Tower. I +have seen stranger shapes,—rocks which mimic the human form, +with monstrous leering faces—and isolated pinnacles, sharper and +greater than any here; but I have never seen exhibited so impressively +the tremendous effects which may be produced by frost, +and by the long-continued action of forces whose individual effects +are barely perceptible. +</p> + +<p> +It is needless to say that it is impossible to climb by the crest +of the ridge at this part; still one is compelled to keep near to it, +for there is no other way. Generally speaking, the angles on the +Matterhorn are too steep to allow the formation of considerable +beds of snow, but here there is a corner which permits it to accumulate, +and it is turned to gratefully, for, by its assistance, one +can ascend four times as rapidly as upon the rocks. +</p> + +<p> +The Tower was now almost out of sight, and I looked over +<pb n='76'/><anchor id='Pg076'/>the central Pennine Alps to the Grand Combin, and to the chain of +Mont Blanc. My neighbour, the Dent d’Hérens, still rose above +me, although but slightly, and the height which had been attained +could be measured by its help. So far, I had no doubts about my +capacity to descend that which had been ascended; but, in a short +time, on looking ahead, I saw that the cliffs steepened, and I turned +back (without pushing on to them, and getting into inextricable +difficulties), exulting in the thought that they would be passed +when we returned together, and that I had, without assistance, +got nearly to the height of the Dent d’Hérens, and considerably +higher than any one had been before.<note place="foot">A remarkable streak of snow + (marked <q>cravate</q> in the <ref target="plate02">outline of the Matterhorn</ref>, +as seen from the Théodule) runs across the cliff at this part of the mountain. +My highest point was somewhat higher than the lowest part of this snow, and was +consequently about 13,400 feet above the sea.</note> My exultation was a little +premature. +</p> + +<p> +About 5 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> I left the tent again, and thought myself as good +as at Breil. The friendly rope and claw had done good service, and +had smoothened all the difficulties. I lowered myself through the +Chimney, however, by making a fixture of the rope, which I then +cut off, and left behind, as there was enough and to spare. My axe +had proved a great nuisance in coming down, and I left it in the +tent. It was not attached to the bâton, but was a separate affair,—an +old navy boarding-axe. While cutting up the different snow-beds +on the ascent, the bâton trailed behind fastened to the rope; +and, when climbing, the axe was carried behind, run through the +rope tied round my waist, and was sufficiently out of the way. +But in descending, when coming down face outwards (as is always +best where it is possible), the head or the handle of the weapon +caught frequently against the rocks, and several times nearly upset +me. So, out of laziness if you will, it was left in the tent. I paid +dearly for the imprudence. +</p> + +<p> +The Col du Lion was passed, and fifty yards more would have +placed me on the <q>Great Staircase,</q> down which one can run. But +<pb n='77'/><anchor id='Pg077'/>on arriving at an angle of the cliffs of the Tête du Lion, while +skirting the upper edge of the snow which abuts against them, I +found that the heat of the two past days had nearly obliterated the +steps which had been cut when coming up. The rocks happened +to be impracticable just at this corner, so nothing could be done +except make the steps afresh. The snow was too hard to beat or +tread down, and at the angle it was all but ice. Half-a-dozen +steps only were required, and then the ledges could be followed +again. So I held to the rock with my right hand, and prodded +at the snow with the point of my stick until a good step was +made, and then, leaning round the angle, did the same for the +other side. So far well, but in attempting to pass the corner +(to the present moment I cannot tell how it happened) I slipped +and fell. +</p><anchor id="plate04"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: <q>THE CHIMNEY.</q> +<lb/> +(ON THE SOUTH-WEST RIDGE OF THE MATTERHORN).]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus104.jpg" rend="w80"><head rend="ill"><q>THE CHIMNEY.</q> +<lb/> +(ON THE SOUTH-WEST RIDGE OF THE MATTERHORN).</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: The chimney (on the South-West ridge of the Matterhorn)</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +The slope was steep on which this took place, and was at the +top of a gully that led down through two subordinate buttresses +towards the Glacier du Lion—which was just seen, a thousand feet +below. The gully narrowed and narrowed, until there was a mere +thread of snow lying between two walls of rock, which came to +an abrupt termination at the top of a precipice that intervened +between it and the glacier. Imagine a funnel cut in half through +its length, placed at an angle of 45 degrees, with its point below +and its concave side uppermost, and you will have a fair idea of +the place. +</p> + +<p> +The knapsack brought my head down first, and I pitched into +some rocks about a dozen feet below; they caught something and +tumbled me off the edge, head over heels, into the gully; the +bâton was dashed from my hands, and I whirled downwards in a +series of bounds, each longer than the last; now over ice, now into +rocks; striking my head four or five times, each time with increased +force. The last bound sent me spinning through the air, +in a leap of fifty or sixty feet, from one side of the gully to the +other, and I struck the rocks, luckily, with the whole of my left +side. They caught my clothes for a moment, and I fell back on to +<pb n='78'/><anchor id='Pg078'/>the snow with motion arrested. My head fortunately came the +right side up, and a few frantic catches brought me to a halt, in the +neck of the gully, and on the verge of the precipice. Bâton, hat, +and veil skimmed by and disappeared, and the crash of the rocks—which +I had started—as they fell on to the glacier, told how +narrow had been the escape from utter destruction. As it +was, I fell nearly 200 feet in seven or eight bounds. Ten feet +more would have taken me in one gigantic leap of 800 feet on +to the glacier below. +</p> + +<p> +The situation was sufficiently serious. The rocks could not +be left go for a moment, and the blood was spirting out of more +than twenty cuts. The most serious ones were in the head, and +I vainly tried to close them with one hand, whilst holding on +with the other. It was useless; the blood jerked out in blinding +jets at each pulsation. At last, in a moment of inspiration, I +kicked out a big lump of snow, and stuck it as a plaster on my +head. The idea was a happy one, and the flow of blood diminished. +Then, scrambling up, I got, not a moment too soon, to +a place of safety, and fainted away. The sun was setting when +consciousness returned, and it was pitch dark before the Great +Staircase was descended; but, by a combination of luck and care, +the whole 4800 feet of descent to Breil was accomplished without +a slip, or once missing the way. I slunk past the cabin of the +cowherds, who were talking and laughing inside, utterly ashamed +of the state to which I had been brought by my imbecility, and +entered the inn stealthily, wishing to escape to my room unnoticed. +But Favre met me in the passage, demanded <q>Who is +it?</q> screamed with fright when he got a light, and aroused the +household. Two dozen heads then held solemn council over mine, +with more talk than action. The natives were unanimous in recommending +that hot wine (syn. vinegar), mixed with salt, should +be rubbed into the cuts. I protested, but they insisted. It was +all the doctoring they received. Whether their rapid healing was +to be attributed to that simple remedy, or to a good state of health, +<pb n='79'/><anchor id='Pg079'/>is a question; they closed up remarkably quickly, and in a few +days I was able to move again.<note place="foot">I received much attention from a kind English lady who was staying in the +inn.</note> +</p><anchor id="plate05"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: <q>IN ATTEMPTING TO PASS THE CORNER I SLIPPED AND FELL.</q>]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus108.jpg" rend="w80"><head rend="ill"><q>IN ATTEMPTING TO PASS THE CORNER I SLIPPED AND FELL.</q></head> +<figDesc>Illustration: In attempting to pass the corner I slipped and fell</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> + <anchor id="fig31"/><pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: AT BREIL (GIOMEIN).]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus110.png" rend="w100"><head rend="ill">AT BREIL (GIOMEIN).</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: At Breil (Giomein)</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +It was sufficiently dull during this time. I was chiefly occupied +in meditating on the vanity of human wishes, and in watching +my clothes being washed in the tub which was turned by the +stream in the front of the house; and I vowed that if an Englishman +should at any time fall sick in the Val Tournanche, he should +not feel so solitary as I did at this dreary time.<note place="foot"><p> +As it seldom happens that one survives such a fall, it may be interesting to +record what my sensations were during its occurrence. I was perfectly conscious +of what was happening, and felt each blow; but, like a patient under chloroform, +experienced no pain. Each blow was, naturally, more severe than that which +preceded it, and I distinctly remember thinking, <q>Well, if the next is harder still, +that will be the end!</q> Like persons who have been rescued from drowning, I +remember that the recollection of a multitude of things rushed through my head, +many of them trivialities or absurdities, which had been forgotten long before; and, +more remarkable, this bounding through space did not feel disagreeable. But I +think that in no very great distance more, consciousness as well as sensation would +have been lost, and upon that I base my belief, improbable as it seems, that death by +a fall from a great height is as painless an end as can be experienced. +</p> + +<p> +The battering was very rough, yet no bones were broken. The most severe cuts +were one of four inches long on the top of the head, and another of three inches on + the right temple: this latter bled frightfully. There was a formidable-looking cut, +of about the same size as the last, on the palm of the left hand, and every limb was +grazed, or cut, more or less seriously. The tips of the ears were taken off, and a sharp +rock cut a circular bit out of the side of the left boot, sock, and ankle, at one stroke. +The loss of blood, although so great, did not seem to be permanently injurious. The +only serious effect has been the reduction of a naturally retentive memory to a very +common-place one; and although my recollections of more distant occurrences +remain unshaken, the events of that particular day would be clean gone but for the +few notes which were written down before the accident.</p> +</note> +</p> + +<pb n='80'/><anchor id='Pg080'/> + +<p> +The news of the accident brought Jean-Antoine Carrel up to +Breil, and, along with the haughty chasseur, came one of his +relatives, a strong and able young fellow named Cæsar. With +these two men and Meynet I made another start on the 23rd of +July. We got to the tent without any trouble, and on the following +day had ascended beyond the Tower, and were picking our way +cautiously over the loose rocks behind (where my traces of the +week before were well apparent) in lovely weather, when one of +those abominable and almost instantaneous changes occurred, to +which the Matterhorn is so liable on its southern side. Mists +were created out of invisible vapours, and in a few minutes snow +fell heavily. We stopped, as this part was of excessive difficulty, +and, unwilling to retreat, remained on the spot several hours, in +hopes that another change would occur; but, as it did not, we at +length went down to the base of the Tower, and commenced to +make a third platform, at the height of 12,992 feet above the sea. +It still continued to snow, and we took refuge in the tent. Carrel +argued that the weather had broken up, and that the mountain +would become so glazed with ice as to render any attempt futile; +and I, that the change was only temporary, and that the rocks +were too hot to allow ice to form upon them. I wished to stay +until the weather improved, but my leader would not endure contradiction, +grew more positive, and insisted that we must go down. +We went down, and when we got below the Col his opinion was +found to be wrong; the cloud was confined to the upper 3000 feet, +and outside it there was brilliant weather. +</p> + +<pb n='81'/><anchor id='Pg081'/> + +<p> +Carrel was not an easy man to manage. He was perfectly +aware that he was the cock of the Val Tournanche, and he commanded +the other men as by right. He was equally conscious that +he was indispensable to me, and took no pains to conceal his knowledge +of the fact. If he had been commanded, or if he had been +entreated to stop, it would have been all the same. But, let me +repeat, he was the only first-rate climber I could find who believed +that the mountain was not inaccessible. With him I had hopes, +but without him none; so he was allowed to do as he would. His +will on this occasion was almost incomprehensible. He certainly +could not be charged with cowardice, for a bolder man could hardly +be found; nor was he turning away on account of difficulty, for +nothing to which we had yet come seemed to be difficult to <hi rend='italic'>him</hi>; +and his strong personal desire to make the ascent was evident. +There was no occasion to come down on account of food, for we had +taken, to guard against this very casualty, enough to last for a week; +and there was no danger, and little or no discomfort, in stopping in +the tent. It seemed to me that he was spinning out the ascent for +his own purposes, and that although he wished very much to be +the first man on the top, and did not object to be accompanied by +any one else who had the same wish, he had no intention of letting +one succeed too soon,—perhaps to give a greater appearance of <hi rend='italic'>éclat</hi> +when the thing was accomplished. As he feared no rival, he may +have supposed that the more difficulties he made the more valuable +he would be estimated; though, to do him justice, he never showed +any great hunger for money. His demands were fair, not excessive; +but he always stipulated for so much per day, and so, under any +circumstances, he did not do badly. +</p> + +<p> +Vexed at having my time thus frittered away, I was still well +pleased when he volunteered to start again on the morrow, if it +should be fine. We were to advance the tent to the foot of the +Tower, to fix ropes in the most difficult parts beyond, and to make +a push for the summit on the following day. +</p> + +<p> +The next morning (Friday the 25th) when I arose, good little +<pb n='82'/><anchor id='Pg082'/>Meynet was ready and waiting, and he said that the two Carrels +had gone off some time before, and had left word that they intended +marmot-hunting, as the day was favourable for that sport.<note place="foot">An incident like this goes far to make one look favourably upon the <hi rend='italic'>règlements</hi> +of Chamounix and other places. This could not have occurred at Chamounix, nor +here, if there had been a <hi rend='italic'>bureau des guides</hi>.</note> My +holiday had nearly expired, and these men clearly could not be +relied upon; so, as a last resort, I proposed to the hunchback to +accompany me alone, to see if we could not get higher than before, +though of reaching the summit there was little or no hope. He +did not hesitate, and in a few hours we stood—for the third time +together—upon the Col du Lion. It was the first time Meynet +had seen the view unclouded. The poor little deformed peasant +gazed upon it silently and reverently for a time, and then, unconsciously, +fell on one knee in an attitude of adoration, and +clasped his hands, exclaiming in ecstasy, <q>Oh, beautiful mountains!</q> +His actions were as appropriate as his words were natural, +and tears bore witness to the reality of his emotion. +</p> + +<p> +Our power was too limited to advance the tent, so we slept at +the old station, and starting very early the next morning, passed +the place where we had turned back on the 24th, and, subsequently, +my highest point on the 19th. We found the crest of the +ridge so treacherous that we took to the cliffs on the right, although +most unwillingly. Little by little we fought our way up, but at +length we were both spread-eagled on the all but perpendicular +face, unable to advance, and barely able to descend. We returned +to the ridge. It was almost equally difficult, and infinitely more +unstable; and at length, after having pushed our attempts as far +as was prudent, I determined to return to Breil, and to have a +light ladder made to assist us to overcome some of the steepest +parts.<note place="foot">This appeared to be the most difficult part of the mountain. One was driven to +keep to the edge of the ridge, or very near to it; and at the point where we turned back +(which was almost as high as the <hi rend='italic'>highest</hi> part of the <q>cravate,</q> and perhaps 100 feet +higher than my scramble on the 19th) there were smooth walls seven or eight feet +high in every direction, which were impassable to a single man, and which could only +be surmounted by the assistance of ladders, or by using one’s comrades as ladders.</note> I expected, too, that by this time Carrel would have had +enough marmot-hunting, and would deign to accompany us again. +</p> + +<pb n='83'/><anchor id='Pg083'/> + +<p> +We came down at a great pace, for we were now so familiar +with the mountain, and with each other’s wants, that we knew +immediately when to give a helping hand, and when to let alone. +The rocks also were in a better state than I have ever seen them, +being almost entirely free from glaze of ice. Meynet was always +merriest on the difficult parts, and, on the most difficult, kept on +enunciating the sentiment, <q>We can only die once,</q> which thought +seemed to afford him infinite satisfaction. We arrived at the inn +early in the evening, and I found my projects summarily and +unexpectedly knocked on the head. +</p> + +<p> +Professor Tyndall had arrived while we were absent, and he +had engaged both Cæsar and Jean-Antoine Carrel. Bennen was +also with him, together with a powerful and active friend, a +Valaisan guide, named Anton Walter. They had a ladder already +prepared, provisions were being collected, and they intended to +start on the following morning (Sunday). This new arrival took +me by surprise. Bennen, it will be remembered, refused point-blank +to take Professor Tyndall on the Matterhorn in 1861. <q>He +was dead against any attempt on the mountain,</q> says Tyndall. +He was now eager to set out. Professor Tyndall has not explained +in what way this revolution came about in his guide. I was +equally astonished at the faithlessness of Carrel, and attributed it +to pique at our having presumed to do without him. It was +useless to compete with the Professor and his four men, who +were ready to start in a few hours, so I waited to see what would +come of their attempt.<note place="foot">See <ref target="Pg325">Appendix H</ref>.</note> +</p> + +<p> +Everything seemed to favour it, and they set out on a fine +morning in high spirits, leaving me tormented with envy and all +uncharitableness. If they succeeded, they carried off the prize for +which I had been so long struggling; and if they failed, there was +<pb n='84'/><anchor id='Pg084'/>no time to make another attempt, for I was due in a few days more +in London. When this came home clearly to me, I resolved to +leave Breil at once; but, when packing up, found that some necessaries +had been left behind in the tent. So I went off about midday +to recover them; caught the army of the Professor before it +reached the Col, as they were going very slowly; left them there +(stopping to take food), and went on to the tent. I was near to it +when all at once I heard a noise aloft, and, on looking up, perceived +a stone of at least a foot cube flying straight at my head. I ducked, +and scrambled under the lee side of a friendly rock, while the stone +went by with a loud buzz. It was the advanced guard of a perfect +storm of stones, which descended with infernal clatter down the +very edge of the ridge, leaving a trail of dust behind, with a strong +smell of sulphur, that told who had sent them. The men below +were on the look-out, but the stones did not come near them, and +breaking away on one side went down to the Glacier du Lion.<note place="foot">Professor Tyndall describes this incident in the following words:—<q>We had +gathered up our traps, and bent to the work before us, when suddenly an explosion +occurred overhead. We looked aloft and saw in mid-air a solid shot from the Matterhorn +describing its proper parabola, and finally splitting into fragments as it smote +one of the rocky towers in front. Down the shattered fragments came like a kind of +spray, slightly wide of us, but still near enough to compel a sharp look-out. Two or +three such explosions occurred, but we chose the back fin of the mountain for our +track, and from this the falling stones were speedily deflected right or left.</q>—<hi rend='italic'>Saturday +Review</hi>, Aug. 8, 1863. Reprinted in <hi rend='italic'>Macmillan’s Magazine</hi>, April, 1869.</note> +</p> + +<p> +I waited at the tent to welcome the Professor, and when he +arrived went down to Breil. Early next morning some one ran to +me saying that a flag was seen on the summit of the Matterhorn. +It was not so, however, although I saw that they had passed the +place where we had turned back on the 26th. I had now no doubt +of their final success, for they had got beyond the point which +Carrel, not less than myself, had always considered to be the most +questionable place on the whole mountain. Up to it there was no +choice of route,—I suppose that at no one point between it and the +Col was it possible to diverge a dozen paces to the right or left, +<pb n='85'/><anchor id='Pg085'/>but beyond it it was otherwise, and we had always agreed, in our +debates, that if it could be passed success was certain. The <ref target="fig32">accompanying +outline</ref> from a sketch taken from the door of the inn at +Breil will help to explain. The letter <hi rend='antiqua'>A</hi> indicates the position of +the Great Tower; <hi rend='antiqua'>C</hi> the <q>cravate</q> (the strongly-marked streak of +snow referred to on <ref target="Pg076">p. 76</ref>, and which we just failed to arrive at on +the 26th); <hi rend='antiqua'>B</hi> the place where we now saw something that looked +like a flag. Behind the point B a nearly level ridge leads up to the +foot of the final peak, which will be understood by a reference to +the outline <ref target="plate02">facing p. 44</ref>, on which the same letters indicate the +same places. It was just now said, we considered that if the point +<hi rend='antiqua'>C</hi> could be passed, success was certain. Tyndall was at <hi rend='antiqua'>B</hi> very +early in the morning, and I did not doubt that he would reach the +summit, although it yet remained problematical whether he would +be able to stand on the very highest point. The summit was +evidently formed of a long ridge, on which there were two points +nearly equally elevated—so equally that one could not say which +was the highest—and between the two there seemed to be a deep +<pb n='86'/><anchor id='Pg086'/>notch, marked <hi rend='antiqua'>D</hi> on the outlines, which might defeat one at the +very last moment. +</p><anchor id="plate06"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: A CANNONADE ON THE MATTERHORN (1862).]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus116.png" rend="w80"><head rend="ill">A CANNONADE ON THE MATTERHORN (1862).</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: A cannonade on the Matterhorn (1862)</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> + <anchor id="fig32"/><figure url="images/illus118.png" rend="w100"><figDesc>Illustration: The Matterhorn from Breil</figDesc></figure> +<p> +My knapsack was packed, and I had taken a parting glass of +wine with Favre, who was jubilant at the success which was to +make the fortune of his inn; but I could not bring myself to leave +until the result was heard, and lingered about, as a foolish lover +hovers round the object of his affections, even after he has been +contemptuously rejected. The sun had set before the men were +descried coming over the pastures. There was no spring in their +steps—they, too, were defeated. The Carrels hid their heads, and +the others said, as men will do when they have been beaten, that +the mountain was horrible, impossible, and so forth. Professor +Tyndall told me they had arrived <hi rend='italic'>within a stone’s throw of the +summit</hi>, and admonished me to have nothing more to do with the +mountain. I understood him to say that he should not try again, +and ran down to the village of Val Tournanche, almost inclined to +believe that the mountain was inaccessible; leaving the tent, ropes, +and other matters in the hands of Favre, to be placed at the disposal +of any person who wished to ascend it, more, I am afraid, out +of irony than from generosity. There may have been those who +believed that the Matterhorn could be ascended, but, anyhow, their +faith did not bring forth works. No one tried again in 1862. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +Business took me into Dauphiné before returning to London, +and a week after Tyndall’s defeat I lay one night, after a sultry day, +half-asleep, tossing about in one of the abominations which serve +for beds in the inn kept by the Deputy-Mayor of La Ville de Val +Louise; looking at a strange ruddiness on the ceiling, which I +thought might be some effect of electricity produced by the irritation +of the myriads of fleas; when the great bell of the church, +close at hand, pealed out with loud and hurried clangour. I jumped +up, for the voices and movements of the people in the house made +me think of fire. It <hi rend='italic'>was</hi> fire; and I saw from my window, on the +other side of the river, great forked flames shooting high into the +<pb n='87'/><anchor id='Pg087'/>sky, black dots with long shadows hurrying towards the place, +and the crests of the ridges catching the light and standing out +like spectres. All the world was in motion, for the neighbouring +villages—now aroused—rang out the alarm. I pulled on my shirt, +and tore over the bridge. Three large chalets were on fire, and +were surrounded by a mass of people, who were bringing all their +pots and pans, and anything that would hold water. They formed +themselves into several chains, each two deep, leading towards the +nearest stream, and passed the water up one side, and the empty +utensils down the other. My old friend the mayor was there, in +full force, striking the ground with his stick, and vociferating, +<q>Work! work!</q> but the men, with much presence of mind, +chiefly ranged themselves on the sides of the empty buckets, and +left the real work to their better halves. Their efforts were +useless, and the chalets burnt themselves out. +</p> + +<p> +The next morning I visited the still smouldering ruins, and saw +the homeless families sitting in a dismal row in front of their +charred property. The people said that one of the houses had been +well insured, and that its owner had endeavoured to forestall luck. +He had arranged the place for a bonfire, set the lower rooms on +fire in several places, and had then gone out of the way, leaving +his wife and children in the upper rooms, to be roasted or not as +the case might be. His plans only partially succeeded, and it +was satisfactory to see the scoundrel brought back in the custody +of two stalwart gensdarmes. Three days afterwards I was in +London. +</p><pb n='88'/><anchor id='Pg088'/><anchor id="fig33"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: <q>BUT WHAT IS THIS?</q>]</p> + </then><else> + <p rend="page-break-before: always"><figure url="images/illus121.png" rend="w60"><head rend="ill"><q>BUT WHAT IS THIS?</q></head> +<figDesc>Illustration: But what is this?</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +</div><div type="chapter"> +<index index="toc" level1="Chapter V. The Val Tournanche"/> +<index index="pdf" level1="Chapter V. The Val Tournanche"/> +<head>CHAPTER V.</head> + +<head type="sub">THE VAL TOURNANCHE—DIRECT PASS FROM BREIL TO ZERMATT +(BREUILJOCH)—ZERMATT—FIRST ASCENT OF THE GRAND TOURNALIN.</head> + +<epigraph><lg> +<l><q rend="post: none">How like a winter hath my absence been</q></l> +<l><q rend="pre: none">From thee, the pleasure of a fleeting year!</q></l> +<l rend="margin-left: 10"><hi rend='smallcaps'>W. Shakespeare.</hi></l> +</lg></epigraph> + +<p> +I crossed the Channel on the 29th of July 1863, embarrassed by +the possession of two ladders, each twelve feet long, which joined +together like those used by firemen, and shut up like parallel rulers. +My luggage was highly suggestive of housebreaking, for, besides +these, there were several coils of rope, and numerous tools of suspicious +appearance, and it was reluctantly admitted into France, +but it passed through the custom-house with less trouble than I +anticipated, after a timely expenditure of a few francs. +</p> + +<p> +I am not in love with the douane. It is the purgatory of travellers, +where uncongenial spirits mingle together for a time, before +they are separated into rich and poor. The douaniers look upon +tourists as their natural enemies; see how eagerly they pounce upon +the portmanteaux! One of them has discovered something! He +has never seen its like before, and he holds it aloft in the face of +its owner, with inquisitorial insolence. <q>But <hi rend='italic'>what is</hi> this?</q> The +<pb n='89'/><anchor id='Pg089'/>explanation is only half-satisfactory. <q>But what is <hi rend='italic'>this</hi>?</q> says he, +laying hold of a little box. <q>Powder.</q> <q>But that it is forbidden +to carry of powder on the railway.</q> <q>Bah!</q> says another and older +hand, <q>pass the effects of Monsieur;</q> and our countryman—whose +cheeks had begun to redden under the stares of his +fellow-travellers—is +allowed to depart with his half-worn tooth-brush, while the +discomfited douanier gives a mighty shrug at the strange habits of +those <q>whose insular position excludes them from the march of +continental ideas.</q> +</p> + +<p> +My real troubles commenced at Susa. The officials there, more +honest and more obtuse than the Frenchmen, declined at one and +the same time to be bribed, or to pass my baggage until a satisfactory +account of it was rendered; and, as they refused to believe +the true explanation, I was puzzled what to say, but was presently +relieved from the dilemma by one of the men, who was cleverer +than his fellows, suggesting that I was going to Turin to exhibit +in the streets; that I mounted the ladder and balanced myself on +the end of it, then lighted my pipe and put the point of the bâton +in its bowl, and caused the bâton to gyrate around my head. The +rope was to keep back the spectators, and an Englishman in my +company was the agent. <q>Monsieur is acrobat then?</q> <q>Yes, +certainly.</q> <q>Pass the effects of Monsieur the acrobat!</q> +</p> + +<p> +These ladders were the source of endless trouble. Let us pass +over the doubts of the guardians of the Hôtel d’Europe (Trombetta), +whether a person in the possession of such questionable articles +should be admitted to their very respectable house, and get to +Chatillon, at the entrance of the Val Tournanche. A mule was +chartered to carry them, and, as they were too long to sling across +its back, they were arranged lengthways, and one end projected over +the animal’s head, while the other extended beyond its tail. A mule +when going up or down hill always moves with a jerky action, and +in consequence of this the ladders hit my mule severe blows between +its ears and in its flanks. The beast, not knowing what strange +creature it had on its back, naturally tossed its head and threw out +<pb n='90'/><anchor id='Pg090'/>its legs, and this, of course, only made the blows that it received +more severe. At last it ran away, and would have perished by +rolling down a precipice, if the men had not caught hold of its tail. +The end of the matter was that a man had to follow the mule, +holding the end of the ladders, which obliged him to move his arms +up and down incessantly, and to bow to the hind quarters of the +animal in a way that afforded more amusement to his comrades +than it did to him. +</p> + +<p> +I was once more <hi rend='italic'>en route</hi> for the Matterhorn, for I had heard in +the spring of 1863 the cause of the failure of Professor Tyndall, and +learnt that the case was not so hopeless as it appeared to be at one +time. I found that he arrived as far only as the northern end of +<q>the shoulder.</q> The point at which he says,<note place="foot"><hi rend='italic'>Saturday Review</hi>, August 8, 1863.</note> they <q>sat down with +broken hopes, the summit within a stone’s throw of us, but still +defying us,</q> was not the notch or cleft at <hi rend='small'>D</hi> (which is literally +within a stone’s throw of the summit), but another and more formidable +cleft that intervenes between the northern end of <q>the +shoulder</q> and the commencement of the final peak. It is marked +<hi rend='small'>E</hi> on the outline which <ref target="plate02">faces p. 44</ref>. Carrel and all the men who +had been with me knew of the existence of this cleft, and of the +pinnacle which rose between it and the final peak;<note place="foot">The pinnacle, in fact, had a name,—<q>L’ange Anbé.</q></note> and we had +frequently talked about the best manner of passing the place. On +this we disagreed, but we were both of opinion that when we got +to <q>the shoulder,</q> it would be necessary to bear down gradually to +the right or to the left, to avoid coming to the top of the notch. +Tyndall’s party, after arriving at <q>the shoulder,</q> was led by his +guides along the crest of the ridge, and, consequently, when they +got to its northern end, they came to the top of the notch, instead of +the bottom—to the dismay of all but the Carrels. Dr. Tyndall’s +words are, <q>The ridge was here split by a deep cleft which separated +it from the final precipice, and the case became more hopeless as we +came more near.</q> The Professor adds, <q>The mountain is 14,800 +<pb n='91'/><anchor id='Pg091'/>feet high, and 14,600 feet had been accomplished.</q> He greatly +deceived himself; by the barometric measurements of Signor +Giordano the notch is no less than 800 feet below the summit. The +guide Walter (Dr. Tyndall says) said it was impossible to proceed, +and the Carrels, appealed to for their opinion (this is their own +account), gave as an answer, <q>We are porters; ask your guides.</q> +Bennen, thus left to himself, <q>was finally forced to accept defeat.</q> +Tyndall had nevertheless accomplished an advance of about 400 +feet over one of the most difficult parts of the mountain. +</p> + +<p> +There are material discrepancies between the published narratives +of Professor Tyndall<note place="foot"><hi rend='italic'>Saturday Review</hi>, 1863, and <hi rend='italic'>Macmillan’s Magazine</hi>, 1869.</note> and the verbal accounts of the Carrels. +The former says the men had to be <q>urged on,</q> that <q>they pronounced +flatly against the final precipice,</q> <q>they yielded so utterly,</q> +and that Bennen said, in answer to a final appeal made to him, +<q><q>What could I do, sir? not one of them would accompany me.</q> +It was the accurate truth.</q> Jean-Antoine Carrel says that when +Professor Tyndall gave the order to turn <hi rend='italic'>he</hi> would have advanced +to examine the route, as he did not think that farther progress +was impossible, but he was stopped by the Professor, and was +naturally obliged to follow the others.<note place="foot"><p> +I have entered into this matter because much surprise has been expressed that +Carrel was able to pass this place without any great difficulty in 1865, which turned +back so strong a party in 1862. The cause of Professor Tyndall’s defeat was simply +that his second guide (Walter) did not give aid to Bennen when it was required, and +that the Carrels <hi rend='italic'>would not act as guides after having been hired as porters</hi>. J.-A. Carrel +not only knew of the existence of this place before they came to it, but always +believed in the possibility of passing it, and of ascending the mountain; and had he +been leader to the party, I do not doubt that he might have taken Tyndall to the +top. But when appealed to to assist Bennen (a Swiss, and the recognised leader of +the party), was it likely that he (an Italian, a porter), who intended to be the first +man up the mountain by a route which he regarded peculiarly his own, would render +any aid? +</p> + +<p> +It is not so easy to understand how Dr. Tyndall and Bennen overlooked the +existence of this cleft, for it is seen over several points of the compass, and particularly +well from the southern side of the Théodule pass. Still more difficult is it to +explain how the Professor came to consider that he was only a stone’s-throw from +the summit; for, when he got to the end of <q>the shoulder,</q> he must have been perfectly +aware that the whole height of the final peak was still above him. +</p></note> These disagreements may +<pb n='92'/><anchor id='Pg092'/>well be left to be settled by those who are concerned. Tyndall, +Walter, and Bennen, now disappear from this history.<note place="foot">Dr. Tyndall ascended the Matterhorn in 1868. See Appendix <hi rend='antiqua'>F</hi>.</note> +</p><anchor id="ill092"/> +<anchor id="fig34"/><figure url="images/illus125.png" rend="w40"> +<figDesc>Illustration: An arch of the aqueduct in the Val Tournanche</figDesc></figure> +<p> +The Val Tournanche is one of the most charming valleys in the +Italian Alps; it is a paradise to an artist, and if the space at my +command were greater, I would willingly linger over its groves of +chestnuts, its bright trickling rills and its roaring torrents, its +upland unsuspected valleys and its noble cliffs. The path rises +steeply from Chatillon, but it is well shaded, and the heat of the +summer sun is tempered by cool air and spray which comes off the +ice-cold streams.<note place="foot">Information upon the Val Tournanche will be found in De Saussure’s <hi rend='italic'>Voyages +dans les Alpes</hi>, vol. iv. pp. 379-81, 406-9; in Canon Carrel’s pamphlet, <hi rend='italic'>La Vallée de +Valtornenche en 1867</hi>; and in King’s <hi rend='italic'>Italian Valleys of the Alps</hi>, pp. 220-1.</note> One sees from the path, at several places on +the right bank of the valley, groups of arches which have been +built high up against the faces of the cliffs. Guide-books repeat—on +whose authority I know not—that they are the remains of a +Roman aqueduct. They have the Roman boldness of conception, +but the work has not the usual Roman solidity. The arches have +always seemed to me to be the remains of an <hi rend='italic'>unfinished</hi> work, and +I learn from Jean-Antoine Carrel that +there are other groups of arches, which +are not seen from the path, all having the +same appearance. It may be questioned +whether those seen near the village of +Antey are Roman. Some of them are +semicircular, whilst others are distinctly +pointed. <ref target="fig34">Here</ref> is one of the latter, which +might pass for fourteenth-century work, or later;—a two-centred +arch, with mean voussoirs, and the masonry in rough courses. +These arches are well worth the attention of an archæologist, but +some difficulty will be found in approaching them closely. +</p> + +<pb n='93'/><anchor id='Pg093'/> + +<p> +We sauntered up the valley, and got to Breil when all were +asleep. A halo round the moon promised watery weather, and we +were not disappointed, for, on the next day (August 1), rain fell +heavily, and when the clouds lifted for a time, we saw that new +snow lay thickly over everything higher than 9000 feet. J.-A. +Carrel was ready and waiting (as I had determined to give the +bold cragsman another chance); and he did not need to say that +the Matterhorn would be impracticable for several days after all +this new snow, even if the weather were to arrange itself at once. +Our first day together was accordingly spent upon a neighbouring +summit, the Cimes Blanches; a degraded mountain, well known +for its fine panoramic view. It was little that we saw; for, in +every direction except to the south, writhing masses of heavy +clouds obscured everything; and to the south our view was intercepted +by a peak higher than the Cimes Blanches, named the +Grand Tournalin.<note place="foot">I shall speak again of this mountain, and therefore pass it over for the present.</note> But we got some innocent pleasure out of +watching the gambolings of a number of goats, who became fast +friends after we had given them some salt; in fact, too fast, and +caused us no little annoyance when we were descending. <q>Carrel,</q> +I said, as a number of stones whizzed by which they had dislodged, +<q>this must be put a stop to.</q> <q>Diable!</q> he grunted, <q>it is very +well to talk, but how will you do it?</q> I said that I would try; +and, sitting down, poured a little brandy into the hollow of my +hand, and allured the nearest goat with deceitful gestures. It +was one who had gobbled up the paper in which the salt had been +carried—an animal of enterprising character—and it advanced +fearlessly and licked up the brandy. I shall not easily forget its +surprise. It stopped short, and coughed, and looked at me as +much as to say, <q>Oh, you cheat!</q> and spat and ran away; stopping +now and then to cough and spit again. We were not troubled +any more by those goats. +</p> + +<p> +More snow fell during the night, and our attempt on the +Matterhorn was postponed indefinitely. As there was nothing to +<pb n='94'/><anchor id='Pg094'/>be done at Breil, I determined to make the tour of the mountain, +and commenced by inventing a pass from Breil to Zermatt,<note place="foot">See the <ref target="map1">Map of the Matterhorn and its Glaciers</ref>.</note> in +place of the hackneyed Théodule. Any one who looks at the map +will see that the latter pass makes a considerable détour to the east, +and, apparently, goes out of the way. I thought that it was possible +to strike out a shorter route, both in distance and in time, and we +set out on the 3rd of August, to carry out the idea. We followed +the Théodule path for some time, but quitted it when it bore away +to the east, and kept straight on until we struck the moraine of the +Mont Cervin glacier. Our track still continued in a straight line up +the centre of the glacier to the foot of a tooth of rock, which juts prominently +out of the ridge (Furggengrat) connecting the Matterhorn +with the Théodulehorn. The head of the glacier was connected +with this little peak by a steep bank of snow; but we were able to +go straight up, and struck the Col at its lowest point, a little to the +right (that is to say, to the east) of the above-mentioned peak. On +the north there was a snow-slope corresponding to that on the other +side. Half-an-hour took us to its base. We then bore away over +the nearly level plateau of the Furggengletscher, making a straight +track to the Hörnli, from whence we descended to Zermatt by one +of the well-known paths. This pass has been dubbed the Breuiljoch +by the Swiss surveyors. It is a few feet higher than the Théodule, +and it may be recommended to those who are familiar with that +pass, as it gives equally fine views, and is accessible at all times. +But it will never be frequented like the Théodule, as the snow-slope +at its summit, at certain times, will require the use of the +axe. It took us six hours and a quarter to go from one place to +the other, which was an hour longer than we would have occupied +by the Théodule, although the distance in miles is less. +</p> + +<p> +It is stated in one of the MS. note-books of the late Principal +J. D. Forbes, that this depression, now called the Breuiljoch, was +formerly <hi rend='italic'>the</hi> pass between the Val Tournanche and Zermatt, and +that it was abandoned for the Théodule in consequence of changes +<pb n='95'/><anchor id='Pg095'/>in the glaciers.<note place="foot">My attention was directed to this note by Mr. A. Adams-Reilly.</note> The authority for the statement was not given. +I presume it was from local tradition, but I readily credit it; for, +before the time that the glaciers had shrunk to so great an extent, +the steep snow-slopes above mentioned, in all probability, did not +exist; and, most likely, the glaciers led by very gentle gradients +up to the summit; in which case the route would have formed the +natural highway between the two places. It is far from impossible, +if the glaciers continue to diminish at their present rapid +rate,<note place="foot"><anchor id="notepg095"/> +<p> +The summit of the Théodule pass is 10,899 feet above the sea. It is estimated +that of late about a thousand tourists have crossed it per annum. In the winter, when +the crevasses are bridged over and partially filled up, and the weather is favourable, +cows and sheep pass over it from Zermatt to Val Tournanche, and <hi rend='italic'>vice versa</hi>. +</p> + +<p> +In the <hi rend='italic'>middle of August, 1792</hi>, De Saussure appears to have taken mules from +Breil, over the Val Tournanche glacier to the summit of the Théodule; and on a previous +journey he did the same, also in the middle of August. He distinctly mentions +(§ 2220) that the glacier was completely covered with snow, and that <hi rend='italic'>no</hi> crevasses +were open. I do not think mules could have been taken over the same spot in any +August during the past twenty years without great difficulty. In that month the +glacier is usually very bare of snow, and many crevasses are open. They are easily +enough avoided by those on foot, but would prove very troublesome to mules. +</p> + +<p> +A few days before we crossed the Breuiljoch in 1863, Mr. F. Morshead made a +parallel pass to it. He crossed the ridge on the <hi rend='italic'>western</hi> side of the little peak, and +followed a somewhat more difficult route than ours. In 1865 I wanted to use +Mr. Morshead’s pass (see <ref target="Pg235">p. 235</ref>), but found that it was not possible to descend the +Zermatt side; for, during the two years which had elapsed, the glacier had shrunk +so much that it was completely severed from the summit of the pass, and we could +not get down the rocks that were exposed. +</p></note> that the Théodule itself, the easiest and the most frequented +of all the higher Alpine passes, may, in the course of a few years, +become somewhat difficult; and if this should be the case, the +prosperity of Zermatt will probably suffer.<note place="foot"><p>Although the admirable situation of Zermatt has been known for, at least, +forty years, it is only within the last twenty or so that it has become an approved +Alpine centre. Thirty years ago the Théodule pass, the Weissthor, and the +Col d’Hérens, were, I believe, the only routes ever taken from Zermatt across the +Pennine Alps. At the present time there are (inclusive of these passes and of the +valley road) no less than twenty-six different ways in which a tourist may go from +Zermatt. The summits of some of these cols are more than 14,000 feet above the +level of the sea, and a good many of them cannot be recommended, either for ease, or +as offering the shortest way from Zermatt to the valleys and villages to which they +lead. +</p> + +<p> +Zermatt itself is still only a village with 600 inhabitants (about forty of whom are +guides), with picturesque châlet dwellings, black with age. The hotels, including the +new inn on the Riffelberg, mostly belong to M. Alexandre Seiler, to whom the village +and valley are very much indebted for their prosperity, and who is the best person +to consult for information, or in all cases of difficulty.</p></note> +</p> + +<pb n='96'/><anchor id='Pg096'/> + +<p> +Carrel and I wandered out again in the afternoon, and went, +first of all, to a favourite spot with tourists near the end of the +Gorner glacier (or, properly speaking, the Boden glacier), to a little +verdant flat—studded with <hi rend='italic'>Euphrasia officinalis</hi>—the delight of +swarms of bees, who gather there the honey which afterwards +appears at the <hi rend='italic'>table d’hôte</hi>. +</p><anchor id="fig35"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p>[Illustration: WATER-WORN ROCKS IN THE GORGE BELOW THE GORNER GLACIER.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus129.jpg" rend="w80"> + <head rend="ill">WATER-WORN ROCKS IN THE GORGE BELOW THE GORNER GLACIER.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: Water-worn rocks in the gorge below the Gorner Glacier</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +On our right the glacier-torrent thundered down the valley +<pb n='97'/><anchor id='Pg097'/>through a gorge with precipitous sides, not easily approached; for +the turf at the top was slippery, and the rocks had everywhere been +rounded by the glacier,—which formerly extended far away. This +gorge seems to have been made chiefly by the torrent, and to have +been excavated subsequently to the retreat of the glacier. It seems +so because not merely upon its walls are there the marks of running +water, but even upon the rounded rocks at the top of its walls, at a +height of seventy or eighty feet above the present level of the +torrent, there are some of those queer concavities which rapid +streams alone are known to produce on rocks. +</p><anchor id="fig36"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: STRIATIONS PRODUCED BY GLACIER-ACTION (AT GRINDELWALD).]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus130.jpg" rend="w80"> + <head rend="ill">STRIATIONS PRODUCED BY GLACIER-ACTION (AT GRINDELWALD).</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: Striations produced by glacier-action (at Grindelwald)</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<pb n='98'/><anchor id='Pg098'/> +<p> +A little bridge, apparently frail, spans the torrent just above the +entrance to this gorge, and from it one perceives, being fashioned +in the rocks below, concavities similar to those to which reference +has just been made. The torrent is seen hurrying forwards. Not +everywhere. In some places the water strikes projecting angles, +and, thrown back by them, remains almost stationary, eddying +round and round: in others, obstructions fling it up in fountains, +which play perpetually on the <hi rend='italic'>under</hi> surfaces of overhanging masses; +and sometimes do so in such a way that the water not only works +upon the under surfaces, but round the corner; that is to say, upon +the surfaces which are <hi rend='italic'>not</hi> opposed to the general direction of the +current. In all cases <hi rend='italic'>concavities</hi> are being produced. Projecting +angles are rounded, it is true, and are more or less convex, +but they are overlooked on account of the prevalence of concave +forms. +</p> + +<p> +Cause and effect help each other here. The inequalities of the +torrent bed and walls cause its eddyings, and the eddies fashion +the concavities. The more profound the latter become, the more +disturbance is caused in the water. The destruction of the rocks +proceeds at an ever-increasing rate; for the larger the amount of +surface that is exposed, the greater are the opportunities for the +assaults of heat and cold. +</p> + +<p> +When water is in the form of glacier it has not the power of +making concavities, such as these, in rocks, and of working upon +surfaces which are not opposed to the direction of the current. Its +nature is changed; it operates in a different way, and it leaves +marks which are readily distinguished from those produced by +torrent-action. +</p> + +<p> +The prevailing forms which result from glacier-action are more +or less <hi rend='italic'>convex</hi>. Ultimately, all angles and almost all curves are +obliterated, and large areas of flat surfaces are produced. This perfection +of abrasion is rarely found, except in such localities as have +sustained a grinding much more severe than that which has occurred +in the Alps; and, generally speaking, the dictum of the veteran +<pb n='99'/><anchor id='Pg099'/>geologist Studer, quoted below, is undoubtedly true.<note place="foot"><q>Un des faits les mieux constatés est que l’érosion des glaciers se distingue de +celle des eaux en ce que la première produit des roches convexes ou moutonnées, +tandis que la seconde donne lieu à des concavités.</q>—Prof. B. Studer, <hi rend='italic'>Origine des +Lacs Suisses</hi>.</note> Not merely +can the operations of extinct glaciers be traced in detail by means +of the bosses of rock popularly termed <hi rend='italic'>roches moutonnées</hi>, but their +effects in the aggregate, on a range of mountains or an entire +country, can be recognised sometimes at a distance of fifteen or +twenty miles from the incessant repetition of these convex forms. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +We finished up the 3d of August with a walk over the Findelen +glacier, and returned to Zermatt at a later hour than we intended, +both very sleepy. This is noteworthy only on account of that which +followed. We had to cross the Col de Valpelline on the next day, +and an early start was desirable. Monsieur Seiler, excellent man, +knowing this, called us himself, and when he came to my door, I +answered, <q>All right, Seiler, I will get up,</q> and immediately turned +over to the other side, saying to myself, <q>First of all, ten minutes +more sleep.</q> But Seiler waited and listened, and, suspecting the +case, knocked again. <q>Herr Whymper, have you got a light?</q> +Without thinking what the consequences might be, I answered, +<q>No,</q> and then the worthy man actually forced the lock off his own +door to give me one. By similar and equally friendly and disinterested +acts, Monsieur Seiler has acquired his enviable reputation. +</p> + +<p> +At 4 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> we left his Monte Rosa Hotel, and were soon pushing +our way through the thickets of grey alder that skirt the path up +the right bank of the exquisite little valley which leads to the +Z’Muttgletscher. +</p> + +<p> +Nothing can well seem more inaccessible than the Matterhorn +upon this side; and even in cold blood one holds the breath when +looking at its stupendous cliffs. There are but few equal to them in +size in the Alps, and there are none which can more truly be termed +<hi rend='italic'>precipices</hi>. Greatest of them all is the immense north cliff,—that +which bends over towards the Z’Muttgletscher. Stones which drop +<pb n='100'/><anchor id='Pg100'/>from the top of that amazing wall fall for about 1500 feet before +they touch anything; and those which roll down from above, and +bound over it, fall to a much greater depth, and leap well-nigh +1000 feet beyond its base. This side of the mountain has always +seemed sombre—sad—terrible; it is painfully suggestive of decay, +ruin, and death; and it is now, alas! more than terrible by its +associations. +</p> + +<p> +<q>There is no aspect of destruction about the Matterhorn cliffs,</q> +says Professor Ruskin. Granted;—when they are seen from afar. +But approach, and sit down by the side of the Z’Muttgletscher, and +you will hear that their piecemeal destruction is proceeding ceaselessly—incessantly. +You will <hi rend='italic'>hear</hi>, but, probably, you will not +<hi rend='italic'>see</hi>; for even when the descending masses thunder as loudly as +heavy guns, and the echoes roll back from the Ebihorn opposite, +they will still be as pin-points against this grand old face, so vast +is its scale! +</p> + +<p> +If you would see the <q>aspects of destruction,</q> you must come +still closer, and climb its cliffs and ridges, or mount to the plateau +of the Matterhorngletscher, which is cut up and ploughed up by +these missiles, and strewn on its surface with their smaller fragments; +the larger masses, falling with tremendous velocity, plunge +into the snow and are lost to sight. +</p> + +<p> +The Matterhorngletscher, too, sends down <hi rend='italic'>its</hi> avalanches, as if +in rivalry with the rocks behind. Round the whole of its northern +side it does not terminate in the usual manner by gentle slopes, +but comes to a sudden end at the top of the steep rocks which lie +betwixt it and the Z’Muttgletscher; and seldom does an hour pass +without a huge slice breaking away and falling with dreadful uproar +on to the slopes below, where it is re-compacted. +</p> + +<p> +The desolate, outside pines of the Z’Mutt forests, stripped of +their bark, and blanched by the weather, are a fit foreground to a +scene that can hardly be surpassed in solemn grandeur. It is a +subject worthy of the pencil of a great painter, and one which +would tax the powers of the very greatest. +</p> + +<pb n='101'/><anchor id='Pg101'/> + +<p> +Higher up the glacier the mountain appeared less savage although +not less inaccessible; and, about three hours later, when +we arrived at the island of rock, called the Stockje (which marks +the end of the Z’Muttgletscher proper, and which separates its +higher feeder, the Stockgletscher, from its lower and greater one, +the Tiefenmatten), Carrel himself, one of the least demonstrative +of men, could not refrain from expressing wonder at the steepness +of its faces, and at the audacity that had prompted us to camp +upon the south-west ridge; the profile of which is seen very well +from the Stockje.<note place="foot">Professor Ruskin’s view of <q>the Cervin from the north-west</q> (<hi rend='italic'>Modern Painters</hi>, +vol. iv.) is taken from the Stockje. The Col du Lion is a little depression on the +ridge, close to the margin of the engraving, on the right-hand side; the third tent-platform +was formed at the foot of the perpendicular cliff, on the ridge, exactly one-third +way between the Col du Lion and the summit. The battlemented portion of +the ridge, a little higher up, is called the <q><hi rend='italic'>crête du coq</hi></q>; and the nearly horizontal +portion of the ridge above it is <q>the shoulder.</q></note> Carrel then saw the north and north-west +sides of the mountain for the first time, and was more firmly +persuaded than ever that an ascent was possible <hi rend='italic'>only</hi> from the +direction of Breil. +</p> + +<p> +Three years afterwards I was traversing the same spot with the +guide Franz Biener, when all at once a puff of wind brought to +us a very bad smell; and, on looking about, we discovered a dead +chamois half-way up the southern cliffs of the Stockje. We clambered +up, and found that it had been killed by a most uncommon +and extraordinary accident. It had slipped on the upper rocks, +had rolled over and over down a slope of débris, without being able +to regain its feet, had fallen over a little patch of rocks that +projected through the débris, and had caught the points of both +horns on a tiny ledge, not an inch broad. It had just been able +to touch the débris, where it led away down from the rocks, and +had pawed and scratched until it could no longer touch. It had +evidently been starved to death, and we found the poor beast almost +swinging in the air, with its head thrown back and tongue +protruding, looking to the sky as if imploring help. +</p> + +<pb n='102'/><anchor id='Pg102'/> + +<p> +We had no such excitement as this in 1863, and crossed this +easy pass to the châlets of Prerayen in a very leisurely fashion. +From the summit to Prerayen let us descend in one step. The +way has been described before; and those who wish for information +about it should consult the description of Mr. Jacomb, the +discoverer of the pass. Nor need we stop at Prerayen, except to +remark that the owner of the châlets (who is usually taken for a +common herdsman) must not be judged by appearances. He is a +man of substance; he has many flocks and herds; and although, +when approached politely, is courteous, he can (and probably will) +act as the <hi rend='italic'>master</hi> of Prerayen, if his position is <hi rend='italic'>not</hi> recognised, and +with all the importance of a man who pays taxes to the extent of +500 francs per annum to his government. +</p><anchor id="fig37"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: CHAMOIS IN DIFFICULTIES.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus135.png" rend="w60"><head rend="ill">CHAMOIS IN DIFFICULTIES.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: Chamois in difficulties</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +The hill-tops were clouded when we rose from our hay on the +5th of August. We decided not to continue the tour of our +<pb n='103'/><anchor id='Pg103'/>mountain immediately, and returned over our track of the preceding +day to the highest châlet on the left bank of the valley, +with the intention of attacking the Dent d’Erin on the next +morning. We were interested in this summit, more on account +of the excellent view which it commanded of the south-west +ridge and the terminal peak of the Matterhorn, than from any +other reason. +</p> + +<p> +The Dent d’Erin had not been ascended at this time, and we +had diverged from our route on the 4th, and had scrambled some +distance up the base of Mont Brulé, to see how far its south-western +slopes were assailable. We were divided in opinion as to +the best way of approaching the peak. Carrel, true to his habit +of sticking to rocks in preference to ice, counselled ascending by +the long buttress of the Tête de Bella Cia (which descends towards +the west, and forms the southern boundary of the last glacier that +falls into the Glacier de Zardesan), and thence traversing the heads +of all the tributaries of the Zardesan to the western and rocky +ridge of the Dent. I, on the other hand, proposed to follow the +Glacier de Zardesan itself throughout its entire length, and from +the plateau at its head (where my proposed route would cross +Carrel’s) to make directly towards the summit, up the snow-covered +glacier slope, instead of by the western ridge. The +hunchback, who was accompanying us on these excursions, +declared in favour of Carrel’s route, and it was accordingly +adopted. +</p> + +<p> +The first part of the programme was successfully executed; +and at 10.30 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> on the 6th of August, we were sitting astride +the western ridge, at a height of about 12,500 feet, looking down +upon the Tiefenmatten glacier. To all appearance another hour +would place us on the summit; but in another hour we found +that we were not destined to succeed. The ridge (like all of +the principal rocky ridges of the great peaks upon which I have +stood) had been completely shattered by frost, and was nothing +more than a heap of piled up fragments. It was always narrow, +<pb n='104'/><anchor id='Pg104'/>and where it was narrowest it was also the most unstable and the +most difficult. On neither side could we ascend it by keeping a +little below its crest,—on the side of the Tiefenmatten because it +was too steep, and on both sides because the dislodgment of a +single block would have disturbed the equilibrium of all those +which were above. Forced, therefore, to keep to the very crest of +the ridge, and unable to deviate a single step either to the right or +to the left, we were compelled to trust ourselves upon unsteady +masses, which trembled under our tread, which sometimes settled +down, grating in a hollow and ominous manner, and which seemed +as if a little shake would send the whole roaring down in one +awful avalanche. +</p> + +<p> +I followed my leader, who said not a word, and did not rebel +until we came to a place where a block had to be surmounted +which lay poised across the ridge. Carrel could not climb it +without assistance, or advance beyond it until I joined him above; +and as he stepped off my back on to it, I felt it quiver and bear +down upon me. I doubted the possibility of another man standing +upon it without bringing it down. Then I rebelled. There was no +honour to be gained by persevering, or dishonour in turning from +a place which was dangerous on account of its excessive difficulty. +So we returned to Prerayen, for there was too little time to allow +us to re-ascend by the other route, which was subsequently shown +to be the right way up the mountain. +</p> + +<p> +Four days afterwards a party of Englishmen (including my +friends, W. E. Hall, Craufurd Grove, and Reginald Macdonald), +arrived in the Valpelline, and (unaware of our attempt) on the +12th, under the skilful guidance of Melchior Anderegg, made the +first ascent of the Dent d’Erin by the route which I had proposed. +This is the only mountain which I have essayed to ascend, that +has not, sooner or later, fallen to me. Our failure was mortifying, +yet I am satisfied that we did wisely in returning, and that if we +had persevered, by Carrel’s route, another Alpine accident would +have been recorded. Other routes have been since discovered up +<pb n='105'/><anchor id='Pg105'/>the Dent d’Erin. The ascent ranks amongst the more difficult +ones which have been made in the Alps.<note place="foot"><anchor id="note105"/><p> +On <ref target="Pg007">p. 7</ref> it is stated that there was not a pass from Prerayen to Breil in 1860, +and this is correct. On July 8, 1868, my enterprising guide, Jean-Antoine Carrel, +started from Breil at 2 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> with a well-known comrade—J. Baptiste Bich, of Val +Tournanche—to endeavour to make one. They went towards the glacier which +descends from the Dent d’Erin to the south-east, and, on arriving at its base, ascended +at first by some snow between it and the cliffs on its south, and afterwards took to +the cliffs themselves. [This glacier they called the glacier of Mont Albert, after the +local name of the peak which on Mr. Reilly’s map of the Valpelline is called <q>Les +Jumeaux.</q> On Mr. Reilly’s map the glacier is called <q>Glacier d’Erin.</q>] They +ascended the rocks to a considerable height, and then struck across the glacier, +towards the north, to a small <q><hi rend='italic'>rognon</hi></q> (isolated patch of rocks) that is nearly in the +centre of the glacier. They passed above this, and between it and the great <hi rend='italic'>séracs</hi>. +Afterwards their route led them towards the Dent d’Erin, and they arrived at the +base of its final peak by mounting a <hi rend='italic'>couloir</hi> (gully filled with snow), and the rocks +at the head of the glacier. They gained the summit of their pass at 1 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi>, and, +descending by the glacier of Zardesan, arrived at Prerayen at 6.30 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> +</p> + +<p> +As their route joins that taken by Messrs. Hall, Grove, and Macdonald, on their +ascent of the Dent d’Erin in 1863, it is evident that that mountain can be ascended +from Breil. Carrel considers that the route taken by himself and his comrade Bich +can be improved upon; and, if so, it is possible that the ascent of the Dent d’Erin +can be made from Breil in less time than from Prerayen. Breil is very much to be +preferred as a starting-point. +</p></note> +</p> + +<p> +On the 7th of August we crossed the Va Cornère +pass,<note place="foot">See <ref target="Pg008">p. 8</ref>. The height of this pass, according to the late Canon Carrel, is +10,335 feet. A portrait of this enthusiastic and worthy mountaineer is given upon +<ref target="Pg109">p. 109</ref>.</note> and +had a good look at the mountain named the Grand Tournalin as +we descended the Val de Chignana. This mountain was seen from +so many points, and was so much higher than any peak in its +immediate neighbourhood, that it was bound to give a very fine +view; and (as the weather continued unfavourable for the Matterhorn) +I arranged with Carrel to ascend it the next day, and +despatched him direct to the village of Val Tournanche to make +the necessary preparations, whilst I, with Meynet, made a short +cut to Breil, at the back of Mont Panquero, by a little pass +locally known as the Col de Fenêtre. I rejoined Carrel the same +<pb n='106'/><anchor id='Pg106'/>evening at Val Tournanche, and we started from that place at a +little before 5 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> on the 8th, to attack the Tournalin. +</p> + +<p> +Meynet was left behind for that day, and most unwillingly did +the hunchback part from us, and begged hard to be allowed to +come. <q>Pay me nothing, only let me go with you;</q> <q>I shall +want but a little bread and cheese, and of that I won’t eat much;</q> +<q>I would much rather go with you than carry things down the +valley.</q> Such were his arguments, and I was really sorry that +the rapidity of our movements obliged us to desert the good little +man. +</p> + +<p> +Carrel led over the meadows on the south and east of the bluff +upon which the village of Val Tournanche is built, and then by a +zig-zag path through a long and steep forest, making many short +cuts, which showed he had a thorough knowledge of the ground. +After we came again into daylight, our route took us up one of +those little, concealed, lateral valleys which are so numerous on +the slopes bounding the Val Tournanche. +</p> + +<p> +This valley, the Combe de Ceneil, has a general easterly trend, +and contains but one small cluster of houses (Ceneil). The Tournalin +is situated at the head of the Combe, and nearly due east of +the village of Val Tournanche, but from that place no part of the +mountain is visible. After Ceneil is passed it comes into view, +rising above a cirque of cliffs (streaked by several fine waterfalls), +at the end of the Combe. To avoid these cliffs the path bends +somewhat to the south, keeping throughout to the left bank of the +valley, and at about 3500 feet above Val Tournanche, and 1500 +feet above Ceneil and a mile or so to its east, arrives at the base of +some moraines, which are remarkably large considering the dimensions +of the glaciers which formed them. The ranges upon the +western side of the Val Tournanche are seen to great advantage +from this spot; and here the path ends and the way steepens. +</p> + +<p> +When we arrived at these moraines, we had a choice of two +routes. One, continuing to the east, over the moraines themselves, +the débris above them, and a large snow-bed still higher up, to a +<pb n='107'/><anchor id='Pg107'/>kind of <hi rend='italic'>col</hi> or depression to the <hi rend='italic'>south</hi> of the peak, from whence an +easy ridge led towards the summit. The other, over a shrunken +glacier on our north-east (now, perhaps, not in existence), which +led to a well-marked <hi rend='italic'>col</hi> on the <hi rend='italic'>north</hi> of the peak, from whence +a less easy ridge rose directly to the highest point. We followed +the first named of these routes, and in little more than half-an-hour +stood upon the Col, which commanded a most glorious view +of the southern side of Monte Rosa, and of the ranges to its east, +and to the east of the Val d’Ayas. +</p><anchor id="plate07"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: <q>THEY SCATTERED IN A PANIC WHEN SALUTED BY THE CRIES OF MY EXCITED COMRADE.</q>]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus141.jpg" rend="w80"> + <head rend="ill"><q>THEY SCATTERED IN A PANIC WHEN SALUTED BY THE CRIES OF MY EXCITED COMRADE.</q></head> + <figDesc>Illustration: They scattered in a panic when saluted by the cries of my excited comrade</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +Whilst we were resting at this point, a large party of vagrant +chamois arrived on the summit of the mountain from the northern +side, some of whom—by their statuesque position—seemed to +appreciate the grand panorama by which they were surrounded, +while others amused themselves, like two-legged tourists, in rolling +stones over the cliffs. The clatter of these falling fragments made +us look up. The chamois were so numerous that we could not +count them, and clustered around the summit, totally unaware of +our presence. They scattered in a panic, as if a shell had burst +amongst them, when saluted by the cries of my excited comrade; +and plunged wildly down in several directions, with unfaltering +and unerring bounds, with such speed and with such grace that we +were filled with admiration and respect for their mountaineering +abilities. +</p> + +<p> +The ridge that led from the Col towards the summit was +singularly easy, although well broken up by frost, and Carrel +thought that it would not be difficult to arrange a path for mules +out of the shattered blocks; but when we arrived on the summit +we found ourselves separated from the very highest point by +a cleft which had been concealed up to that time: its southern +side was nearly perpendicular, but it was only fourteen or fifteen +feet deep. Carrel lowered me down, and afterwards descended on +to the head of my axe, and subsequently on to my shoulders, with +a cleverness which was almost as far removed from my awkwardness +as his own efforts were from those of the chamois. A few +<pb n='108'/><anchor id='Pg108'/>easy steps then placed us on the highest point. It had not +been ascended before, and we commemorated the event by +building a huge cairn, which was seen +for many a mile, and would have lasted +for many a year, had it not been thrown +down by the orders of Canon Carrel, +on account of its interrupting the sweep +of a camera which he took to the lower +summit in 1868, in order to photograph +the panorama. According to that well-known +mountaineer the summit of the +Grand Tournalin is 6100 feet above the +village of Val Tournanche, and 11,155 +feet above the sea. Its ascent (including +halts) occupied us only four hours. +</p><anchor id="fig38"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: <q>CARREL LOWERED ME DOWN.</q>]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus143.png" rend="w40"><head rend="ill"><q>CARREL LOWERED ME DOWN.</q></head> +<figDesc>Illustration: Carrell lowered me down</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +I recommend any person who has +a day to spare in the Val Tournanche +to ascend the Tournalin. It should be +remembered, however (if its ascent is +made for the sake of the view), that +these southern Pennine Alps seldom +remain unclouded after mid-day, and, +indeed, frequently not later than 10 +or 11 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> Towards sunset the equilibrium +of the atmosphere is restored, and the clouds very commonly +disappear. +</p> + +<p> +I advise the ascent of this mountain not on account of its +height, or from its accessibility or inaccessibility, but simply for +the wide and splendid view which may be seen from its summit. +Its position is superb, and the list of the peaks which can be seen +from it includes almost the whole of the principal mountains of the +Cottian, Dauphiné, Graian, Pennine, and Oberland groups. The +view has, in the highest perfection, those elements of picturesqueness +which are wanting in the purely panoramic views of higher +<pb n='109'/><anchor id='Pg109'/>summits. There are three principal sections, each with a central +or dominating point, to which the eye is naturally drawn. All +three alike are pictures in themselves; yet all are dissimilar. In +the south, softened by the vapours of the Val d’Aoste, extends the +long line of the Graians, with mountain after mountain 12,000 feet +and upwards in height. It is not upon these, noble as some of +them are, that the eye will rest, but upon the Viso, far off in the +background. In the west and towards the north the range of Mont +Blanc, and some of the greatest of the Central Pennine Alps (including +the Grand Combin +and the Dent Blanche) form +the background, but they are +overpowered by the grandeur +of the ridges which culminate +in the Matterhorn. Nor in the +east and north, where pleasant +grassy slopes lead downwards +to the Val d’Ayas, nor upon +the glaciers and snow-fields +above them, nor upon the +Oberland in the background, +will the eye long linger, when +immediately in front, several +miles away, but seeming close at hand, thrown out by the pure +azure sky, there are the glittering crests of Monte Rosa. +</p><anchor id="fig39"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE LATE CANON CARREL, OF AOSTA.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus144.png" rend="w60"><head rend="ill">THE LATE CANON CARREL, OF AOSTA.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: The late Canon Carrell, of Aosta</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +Those who would, but cannot, stand upon the highest Alps, may +console themselves with the knowledge that they do not usually +yield the views that make the strongest and most permanent +impressions. Marvellous some of the panoramas seen from the +greatest peaks undoubtedly are; but they are necessarily without +those isolated and central points which are so valuable pictorially. +The eye roams over a multitude of objects (each, perhaps, grand +individually), and, distracted by an embarrassment of riches, +wanders from one to another, erasing by the contemplation of the +<pb n='110'/><anchor id='Pg110'/>next the effect that was produced by the last; and when those +happy moments are over, which always fly with too great rapidity, +the summit is left with an impression that is seldom durable, +because it is usually vague. +</p> + +<p> +No views create such lasting impressions as those which are +seen but for a moment, when a veil of mist is rent in twain, and a +single spire or dome is disclosed. The peaks which are seen at +these moments are not, perhaps, the greatest or the noblest, but +the recollection of them outlives the memory of any panoramic +view, because the picture, photographed by the eye, has time to +dry, instead of being blurred, while yet wet, by contact with other +impressions. The reverse is the case with the bird’s-eye panoramic +views from the great peaks, which sometimes embrace a hundred +miles in nearly every direction. The eye is confounded by the +crowd of details, and is unable to distinguish the relative importance +of the objects which are seen. It is almost as difficult to +form a just estimate (with the eye) of the respective heights of a +number of peaks from a very high summit, as it is from the bottom +of a valley. I think that the grandest and the most satisfactory +standpoints for viewing mountain scenery are those which are +sufficiently elevated to give a feeling of depth, as well as of height, +which are lofty enough to exhibit wide and varied views, but not +so high as to sink everything to the level of the spectator. The +view from the Grand Tournalin is a favourable example of this +class of panoramic views. +</p> + +<p> +We descended from the summit by the northern route, and +found it tolerably stiff clambering as far as the Col. Thence, down +the glacier, the way was straightforward, and we joined the route +taken on the ascent at the foot of the ridge leading towards the +east. In the evening we returned to Breil. +</p> + +<p> +There is an abrupt rise in the valley about two miles to the +north of the village of Val Tournanche, and just above this step +the torrent has eaten its way into its bed and formed an extraordinary +chasm, which has long been known by the name Gouffre +<pb n='111'/><anchor id='Pg111'/>des Busserailles. We lingered about this spot to listen to the +thunder of the concealed water, and to watch its tumultuous boiling +as it issued from the gloomy cleft, but our efforts to peer into +the mysteries of the place were baffled. In November 1865, the +intrepid Carrel induced two trusty comrades—the Maquignaz’s of +Val Tournanche—to lower him by a rope into the chasm and over +the cataract. The feat required iron nerves, and muscles and +sinews of no ordinary kind; and its performance alone stamps +Carrel as a man of dauntless courage. One of the Maquignaz’s +subsequently descended in the same way, and these two men were +so astonished at what they saw, that they forthwith set to work +with hammer and chisel to make a way into this romantic gulf. +In a few days they constructed a rough but convenient plank +gallery into the centre of the <hi rend='italic'>gouffre</hi>, along its walls; and, on +payment of a toll of half a franc, any one can now enter the +Gouffre des Busserailles. +</p> + +<p> +I cannot, without a couple of sections and a plan, give an exact +idea to the reader of this remarkable place. It corresponds in +some of its features to the gorge <ref target="fig35">figured upon page 96</ref>, but it +exhibits in a much more notable manner the characteristic action +and extraordinary power of running water. The length of the +chasm or <hi rend='italic'>gouffre</hi> is about 320 feet, and from the top of its walls +to the surface of the water is about 110 feet. At no part can +the entire length or depth be seen at a glance; for, although the +width at some places is 15 feet or more, the view is limited by +the sinuosities of the walls. These are everywhere polished to +a smooth, vitreous-in-appearance surface. In some places the +torrent has wormed into the rock, and has left natural bridges. +The most extraordinary features of the Gouffre des Busserailles, +however, are the caverns (or <hi rend='italic'>marmites</hi> as they are termed), which +the water has hollowed out of the heart of the rock. Carrel’s plank +path leads into one of the greatest,—a grotto that is about 28 feet +across at its largest diameter, and 15 or 16 feet high; roofed above +by the living rock, and with the torrent roaring 50 feet or +there<pb n='112'/><anchor id='Pg112'/>abouts below, at the bottom of a fissure. This cavern is lighted by +candles, and talking in it can only be managed by signs. +</p> + +<p> +I visited the interior of the <hi rend='italic'>gouffre</hi> in 1869, and my wonder at +its caverns was increased by observing the hardness of the hornblende +out of which they have been hollowed. Carrel chiselled off +a large piece, which is now lying before me. It has a highly +polished, glassy surface, and might be mistaken, for a moment, for +ice-polished rock. But the water has found out the atoms which +were least hard, and it is dotted all over by minute depressions, +much as the face of one is who has suffered from smallpox. +The edges of these little hollows are <hi rend='italic'>rounded</hi>, and the whole +surfaces of the depressions are polished nearly, or quite, as highly +as the general surface of the fragment. The water has eaten +more deeply into some veins of steatite than in other places, and +the presence of the steatite may possibly have had something to +do with the formation of the <hi rend='italic'>gouffre</hi>. +</p> + +<p> +I arrived at Breil again after an absence of six days, well satisfied +with my tour of the Matterhorn, which had been rendered very +pleasant by the willingness of my guides, and by the kindliness of +the natives. Still, it must be admitted that the inhabitants of the +Val Tournanche are behind the times. Their paths are as bad as, +or worse than, they were in the time of De Saussure, and their inns +are much inferior to those on the Swiss side. If it were otherwise +there would be nothing to prevent the valley becoming one of the +most popular and frequented of all the valleys in the Alps. As +it is, tourists who enter it seem to think only about how soon they +can get out of it, and hence it is much less known than it deserves +to be on account of its natural attractions. +</p> + +<p> +I believe that the great hindrance to the improvement of the +paths in the Italian valleys generally is the wide-spread impression +that the innkeepers would alone directly benefit by any amelioration +of their condition. To a certain extent this view is correct; but +inasmuch as the prosperity of the natives is connected with that of +the innkeepers, the interests of both are pretty nearly identical. +<pb n='113'/><anchor id='Pg113'/>Until their paths are rendered less rough and swampy, I think the +Italians must submit to see the golden harvest principally reaped +in Switzerland and Savoy. At the same time, let the innkeepers +look to the commissariat. Their supplies are not unfrequently +deficient in quantity, and, according to my experience, very often +deplorable in quality. +</p> + +<p> +I will not venture to criticise in detail the dishes which are +brought to table, since I am profoundly ignorant of their constitution. +It is commonly said amongst Alpine tourists that goat flesh +represents mutton, and mule does service for beef and chamois. I +reserve my own opinion upon this point until it has been shown +what becomes of all the dead mules. But I may say, I hope, without +wounding the susceptibilities of my acquaintances among the +Italian innkeepers, that it would tend to smoothen their intercourse +with their guests if requests for solid food were less frequently +regarded as criminal. The deprecating airs with which inquiries +for really substantial food are received always remind me of a +Dauphiné innkeeper, who remarked that he had heard a good many +tourists travel in Switzerland. <q>Yes,</q> I answered, <q>there are a +good many.</q> <q>How many?</q> <q>Well,</q> I said, <q>I have seen a +hundred or more sit down at a table d’hôte.</q> He lifted up his +hands—<q>Why,</q> said he, <q>they would want meat every day!</q> +<q>Yes, that is not improbable.</q> <q>In that case,</q> he replied, <q><hi rend='italic'>I +think we are better without them</hi>.</q> +</p> + +</div><div type="chapter" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='114'/><anchor id='Pg114'/> +<index index="toc" level1="Chapter VI. Our sixth attempt to ascend the Matterhorn"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Chapter VI. Our sixth attempt to ascend the Matterhorn"/> +<head>CHAPTER VI.</head> + +<head type="sub">OUR SIXTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN.<note place="foot">A brief account of this excursion was published in the <hi rend='italic'>Athenæum</hi>, August 29, 1863.</note></head> + +<epigraph><lg> +<l><q rend="post: none">But mighty Jove cuts short, with just disdain,</q></l> +<l><q rend="pre: none">The long, long views of poor, designing man.</q></l> +<l rend="margin-left: 12"><hi rend='smallcaps'>Homer.</hi></l> +</lg></epigraph> + +<p> +Carrel had <hi rend='italic'>carte blanche</hi> in the matter of guides, and his choice fell +upon his relative Cæsar, Luc Meynet, and two others whose names +I do not know. These men were now brought together, and our +preparations were completed, as the weather was clearing up. +</p> + +<p> +We rested on Sunday, August 9, eagerly watching the lessening +of the mists around the great peak, and started just before dawn +upon the 10th, on a still and cloudless morning, which seemed to +promise a happy termination to our enterprise. +</p> + +<p> +By going always, though gently, we arrived upon the Col du Lion +before nine o’clock. Changes were apparent. Familiar ledges had +vanished; the platform, whereupon my tent had stood, looked very +forlorn, its stones had been scattered by wind and frost, and had +half disappeared: and the summit of the Col itself, which in 1862 +had always been respectably broad, and covered by snow, was +now sharper than the ridge of any church roof, and was hard ice. +Already we had found that the bad weather of the past week had +done its work. The rocks for several hundred feet below the Col +were varnished with ice. Loose, incoherent snow covered the +older and harder beds below, and we nearly lost our leader through +its treacherousness. He stepped on some snow which seemed firm, +and raised his axe to deliver a swinging blow, but, just as it was +<pb n='115'/><anchor id='Pg115'/>highest, the crust of the slope upon which he stood broke away, +and poured down in serpentine streams, leaving long, bare strips, +which glittered in the sun, for they were glassy ice. Carrel, with +admirable readiness, flung himself back on to the rock off which he +had stepped, and was at once secured. He simply remarked, <q>It +is time we were tied up,</q> and, after we had been tied up, he went +to work again as if nothing had happened.<note place="foot">This incident occurred close to the place represented in the engraving facing +<ref target="plate05">p. 78</ref>. The new, dry snow was very troublesome, and poured down like flour into the +steps which were cut across the slopes. The front man accordingly moved ahead as +far as possible, and anchored himself to rocks. A rope was sent across to him, was +fixed at each end, and was held as a rail by the others as they crossed. We did not +trust to this rope alone, but were also tied in the usual manner. The second rope +was employed as an additional security against slips.</note> +</p> + +<p> +We had abundant illustrations during the next two hours of the +value of a rope to climbers. We were tied up rather widely apart, +and advanced, generally, in pairs. Carrel, who led, was followed +closely by another man, who lent him a shoulder or placed an axe-head +under his feet, when there was need; and when this couple +were well placed the second pair advanced, in similar fashion,—the +rope being drawn in by those above, and paid out gradually by +those below. The leading men again advanced, or the third pair, +and so on. This manner of progression was slow, but sure. One +man only moved at a time, and if he slipped (and we frequently did +slip) he could slide scarcely a foot without being checked by the +others. The certainty and safety of the method gave confidence to +the one who was moving, and not only nerved him to put out his +powers to the utmost, but sustained nerve in really difficult situations. +For these rocks (which, it has been already said, were easy +enough under ordinary circumstances) were now difficult in a high +degree. The snow-water which had trickled down for many days +past in little streams, had taken, naturally, the very route by +which we wished to ascend; and, refrozen in the night, had glazed +the slabs over which we had to pass,—sometimes with a fine film +of ice as thin as a sheet of paper, and sometimes so thickly that we +<pb n='116'/><anchor id='Pg116'/>could almost cut footsteps in it. The weather was superb, the +men made light of the toil, and shouted to rouse the echoes from +the Dent d’Hérens. +</p> + +<p> +We went on gaily, passed the second tent platform, the +Chimney, and the other well-remembered points, and reckoned, confidently, +on sleeping that night upon the top of <q>the shoulder;</q> +but, before we had well arrived at the foot of the Great Tower, a +sudden rush of cold air warned us to look out. +</p> + +<p> +It was difficult to say where this air came from; it did not +blow as a wind, but descended rather as the water in a shower-bath! +All was tranquil again; the atmosphere <hi rend='italic'>showed</hi> no signs of disturbance; +there was a dead calm, and not a speck of cloud to be seen +anywhere. But we did not remain very long in this state. The cold +air came again, and this time it was difficult to say where it did <hi rend='italic'>not</hi> +come from. We jammed down our hats as it beat against the ridge, +and screamed amongst the crags. Before we had got to the foot of +the Tower, mists had been formed above and below. They appeared +at first in small, isolated patches (in several places at the same time), +which danced and jerked and were torn into shreds by the wind, +but grew larger under the process. They were united together, and +rent again,—showing us the blue sky for a moment, and blotting it +out the next; and augmented incessantly, until the whole heavens +were filled with whirling, boiling clouds. Before we could take off +our packs, and get under any kind of shelter, a hurricane of snow +burst upon us from the east. It fell very heavily, and in a few +minutes the ridge was covered by it. <q>What shall we do?</q> I +shouted to Carrel. <q>Monsieur,</q> said he, <q>the wind is bad; the +weather has changed; we are heavily laden. Here is a fine <hi rend='italic'>gîte</hi>; +let us stop! If we go on we shall be half-frozen. That is <hi rend='italic'>my</hi> +opinion.</q> No one differed from him; so we fell to work to make +a place for the tent, and in a couple of hours completed the platform +which we had commenced in 1862. The clouds had blackened +during that time, and we had hardly finished our task before +a thunderstorm broke upon us with appalling fury. Forked +<pb n='117'/><anchor id='Pg117'/>lightning shot out at the turrets above, and at the crags below. +It was so close that we quailed at its darts. It seemed to scorch +us,—we were in the very focus of the storm. The thunder was +simultaneous with the flashes; short and sharp, and more like the +noise of a door that is violently slammed, multiplied a thousandfold, +than any noise to which I can compare it. +</p> + +<p> +When I say that the thunder was <hi rend='italic'>simultaneous</hi> with the lightning, +I speak as an inexact person. My meaning is that the +time which elapsed between seeing the flash and hearing the +report was inappreciable to me. I wish to speak with all possible +precision, and there are two points with regard to this storm upon +which I can speak with some accuracy. The first is in regard to +the distance of the lightning from our party. We <hi rend='italic'>might</hi> have +been 1100 feet from it if a second of time had elapsed between +seeing the flashes and hearing the reports; and a second of time +is not appreciated by inexact persons. It was certain that we +were sometimes less than that distance from the lightning, +because I saw it pass in front of well-known points on the ridge, +both above and below us, which were less (sometimes considerably +less) than a thousand feet distant. +</p> + +<p> +Secondly, in regard to the difficulty of distinguishing sounds +which are merely echoes from true thunder, or the noise which +occurs simultaneously with lightning. Arago entered into this +subject at some length in his <hi rend='italic'>Meteorological Essays</hi>, and seemed to +doubt if it would ever be possible to determine whether echoes are +<hi rend='italic'>always</hi> the cause of the rolling sounds commonly called thunder.<note place="foot"><q>There is, therefore, little hope of thus arriving at anything decisive as to the +exact part which echoes take in the production of the rolling sound of thunder.</q> +P. 165, English ed., translated by Col. Sabine: Longmans, 1855.</note> +I shall not attempt to show whether the rolling sounds should +ever, or never, be regarded as true thunder, but only that during +this storm upon the Matterhorn it was possible to distinguish the +sound of the thunder itself from the sounds (rolling and otherwise) +which were merely the echoes of the first, original sound. +</p> + +<pb n='118'/><anchor id='Pg118'/> + +<p> +At the place where we were camped a remarkable echo could +be heard (one so remarkable that if it could be heard in this +country it would draw crowds for its own sake); I believe it came +from the cliffs of the Dent d’Hérens. It was a favourite amusement +with us to shout to rouse this echo, which repeated any +sharp cry, in a very distinct manner, several times, after the lapse +of something like a dozen seconds. The thunderstorm lasted nearly +two hours, and raged at times with great fury; and the prolonged +rollings from the surrounding mountains, after one flash, had not +usually ceased before another set of echoes took up the discourse, +and maintained the reverberations without a break. Occasionally +there was a pause, interrupted presently by a single clap, the +accompaniment of a single discharge, and after such times I could +recognise the echoes from the Dent d’Hérens by their peculiar +repetitions, and by the length of time which had passed since the +reports had occurred of which they were the echoes. +</p> + +<p> +If I had been unaware of the existence of this echo, I should +have supposed that the resounds were original reports of explosions +which had been unnoticed, since in intensity they were scarcely +distinguishable from the true thunder; which, during this storm, +seemed to me, upon every occasion, to consist of a single, harsh, +instantaneous sound.<note place="foot"><p> +The same has seemed to me to be the case at all times when I have been close +to the points of explosion. There has been always a distinct interval between the +first explosion and the rolling sounds and secondary explosions which I have <hi rend='italic'>believed</hi> +to be merely echoes; but it has never been possible (except in the above-mentioned +case) to <hi rend='italic'>identify</hi> them as such. +</p> + +<p> +Others have observed the same. <q>The geologist, Professor Theobald, of Chur, +who was in the Solferino storm, between the Tschiertscher and Urden Alp, in the +electric clouds, says that the peals were short, like cannon shots, but of a clearer, +more cracking tone, and that the rolling of the thunder was only heard farther on.</q> +Berlepsch’s <hi rend='italic'>Alps</hi>, English ed., p. 133. +</p></note> +</p> + +<p> +Or if, instead of being placed at a distance of less than a +thousand feet from the points of explosion (and consequently +hearing the report almost in the same moment as we saw the flash, +<pb n='119'/><anchor id='Pg119'/>and the rollings after a considerable interval of time), we had been +placed so that the original report had fallen on our ears nearly at +the same moment as the echoes, we should probably have considered +that the successive reports and rollings of the echoes were +reports of successive explosions occurring nearly at the same +moment, and that they were not echoes at all. +</p> + +<p> +This is the only time (out of many storms witnessed in the +Alps) I have obtained evidence that the rollings of thunder are +actually echoes; and that they are not, necessarily, the reports of +a number of discharges over a long line, occurring at varying +distances from the spectator, and consequently unable to arrive at +his ear at the same moment, although they follow each other so +swiftly as to produce a sound more or less continuous.<note place="foot"><p> +Mr. J. Glaisher has frequently pointed out that all sounds in balloons at some +distance from the earth are notable for their brevity. <q>It is one sound only; <hi rend='italic'>there +is no reverberation, no reflection</hi>; and this is characteristic of all sounds in the balloon, +one clear sound, continuing during its own vibrations, then gone in a moment.</q>—<hi rend='italic'>Good +Words</hi>, 1863, p. 224. +</p> + +<p> +I learn from Mr. Glaisher that the thunder-claps which have been heard by him +during his <q>travels in the air</q> have been no exception to the general rule, and the +absence of rolling has fortified his belief that the rolling sounds which accompany +thunder are echoes, and echoes <hi rend='italic'>only</hi>. +</p></note> +</p> + +<p> +The wind during all this time seemed to blow tolerably consistently +from the east. It smote the tent so vehemently (notwithstanding +it was partly protected by rocks) that we had grave fears +our refuge might be blown away bodily, with ourselves inside; so, +during some of the lulls, we issued out and built a wall to windward. +At half-past three the wind changed to the north-west, and +the clouds vanished. We immediately took the opportunity to +send down one of the porters (under protection of some of the +others, a little beyond the Col du Lion), as the tent would accommodate +only five persons. From this time to sunset the weather +was variable. It was sometimes blowing and snowing hard, and +sometimes a dead calm. The bad weather was evidently confined +to the Mont Cervin, for when the clouds lifted we could see +every<pb n='120'/><anchor id='Pg120'/>thing that could be seen from our gîte. Monte Viso, a hundred +miles off, was clear, and the sun set gorgeously behind the range of +Mont Blanc. We passed the night comfortably—even luxuriously—in +our blanket-bags, but there was little chance of sleeping, +between the noise of the wind, of the thunder, and of the falling +rocks. I forgave the thunder for the sake of the lightning. A +more splendid spectacle than its illumination of the Matterhorn +crags I do not expect to see.<note place="foot">See <ref target="Pg303">Appendix B</ref> + for the experiences of Mr. R. B. Heathcote during a thunderstorm +on the Matterhorn in 1869.</note> +</p> + +<p> +The greatest rock-falls always seemed to occur in the night, +between midnight and daybreak. This was noticeable on each of +the seven nights which I passed upon the south-west ridge, at +heights varying from 11,800 to 13,000 feet. +</p> + +<p> +I may be wrong in supposing that the falls in the night are +greater than those in the daytime, since sound is much more +startling during darkness than when the cause of its production is +seen. Even a sigh may be terrible in the stillness of the night. +In the daytime one’s attention is probably divided between the +sound and the motion of rocks which fall; or it may be concentrated +on other matters. But it is certain that the greatest of the falls +which happened during the night took place after midnight, and +this I connect with the fact that the maximum of cold during +any twenty-four hours very commonly occurs between midnight +and dawn. +</p> + +<p> +We turned out at 3.30 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> on the 11th, and were dismayed to +find that it still continued to snow. At 9 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> it ceased to fall, +and the sun showed itself feebly, so we packed up our baggage, +and set out to try to get upon <q>the shoulder.</q> We struggled +upwards until eleven o’clock, and then it commenced to snow again. +We held a council; the opinions expressed at it were unanimous +against advancing, and I decided to retreat. For we had risen less +than 300 feet in the past two hours, and had not even arrived at +the rope which Tyndall’s party left behind, attached to the rocks, +<pb n='121'/><anchor id='Pg121'/>in 1862. At the same rate of progression it would have taken us +from four to five hours to get upon <q>the shoulder.</q> Not one of us +cared to attempt to do so under the existing circumstances; for +besides having to move our own weight, which was sufficiently +troublesome at this part of the ridge, we had to transport much +heavy baggage, tent, blankets, and provisions, ladder, and 450 feet +of rope, besides many other smaller matters. These, however, were +not the most serious considerations. Supposing that we got upon +<q>the shoulder,</q> we might find ourselves detained there several +days, unable either to go up or down.<note place="foot">Since then (on at least one occasion), several persons have found themselves in +this predicament for five or six consecutive days!</note> I could not risk any such +detention, being under obligations to appear in London at the end +of the week. +</p><anchor id="plate08"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE CRAGS OF THE MATTERHORN, DURING THE STORM, MIDNIGHT, AUG. 10, 1863.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus156.jpg" rend="w80"> + <head rend="ill">THE CRAGS OF THE MATTERHORN, DURING THE STORM, MIDNIGHT, AUG. 10, 1863.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: The crags of the Matterhorn, during the storm, midnight, Aug. 10, 1863</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +We returned to Breil in the course of the afternoon. It was +quite fine there, and the tenants of the inn received our statements +with evident scepticism. They were +astonished to learn that we had been +exposed to a snow-storm of twenty-six +hours’ duration. <q>Why,</q> said +Favre, the innkeeper, <q><hi rend='italic'>we</hi> have had +no snow; it has been fine all the +time you have been absent, and +there has been only that small +cloud upon the mountain.</q> Ah! +that small cloud! None except +those who have had experience of +it can tell what a formidable obstacle it is. +</p><anchor id="fig40"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: MONSIEUR FAVRE.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus158.png" rend="w40"><head rend="ill">MONSIEUR FAVRE.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: Monsieur Favre</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +Why is it that the Matterhorn is subject to these abominable +variations of weather? The ready answer is, <q>Oh, the mountain +is so isolated; it attracts the clouds.</q> This is not a sufficient +answer. Although the mountain <hi rend='italic'>is</hi> isolated, it is not so much more +isolated than the neighbouring peaks that it should gather clouds +when none of the others do so. It will not at all account for the +<pb n='122'/><anchor id='Pg122'/>cloud to which I refer, which is not formed by an aggregation of +smaller, stray clouds drawn together from a distance (as scum +collects round a log in the water), but is created against the +mountain itself, and springs into existence where no clouds were +seen before. It is formed and hangs chiefly against the southern +sides, and particularly against the south-eastern side. It frequently +does not envelop the summit, and rarely extends down to the +Glacier du Lion, and to the Glacier du Mont Cervin below. It +forms in the finest weather; on cloudless and windless days. +</p> + +<p> +I conceive that we should look to differences of temperature +rather than to the height or isolation of the mountain for an explanation. +I am inclined to attribute the disturbances which occur +in the atmosphere of the southern sides of the Matterhorn on fine +days,<note place="foot">I am speaking exclusively of the disturbances which occur in the day-time +during fine weather.</note> principally to the fact that the mountain is a <hi rend='italic'>rock</hi> mountain; +that it receives a great amount of heat,<note place="foot">The rocks are sometimes so hot that they are almost painful to touch.</note> and is not only warmer +itself, but is surrounded by an atmosphere of a higher temperature +than such peaks as the Weisshorn and the Lyskamm, which are +eminently <hi rend='italic'>snow</hi> mountains. +</p> + +<p> +In certain states of the atmosphere its temperature may be +tolerably uniform over wide areas and to great elevations. I have +known the thermometer to show 70° in the shade at the top of an +Alpine peak more than 13,000 feet high, and but a very few degrees +higher 6000 or 7000 feet lower. At other times, there will be a +difference of forty or fifty degrees (Faht.) between two stations, +the higher not more than 6000 or 7000 feet above the lower. +</p> + +<p> +Provided that the temperature was uniform, or nearly so, on +all sides of the Matterhorn, and to a considerable distance above +its summit, no clouds would be likely to form upon it. But if the +atmosphere immediately surrounding it is warmer than the contiguous +strata, a local <q>courant ascendant</q> must necessarily be +generated; and portions of the cooler superincumbent (or +circum<pb n='123'/><anchor id='Pg123'/>jacent) air will naturally be attracted towards the mountain, where +they will speedily condense the moisture of the warm air in contact +with it. I cannot explain the downrushes of cold air which occur +on it, when all the rest of the neighbourhood appears to be tranquil, +in any other way. The clouds are produced by the contact +of two strata of air (of widely different temperatures) charged with +invisible moisture, as surely as certain colourless fluids produce a +white, turbid liquid, when mixed together. The order has been—wind +of a low temperature—mist—rain—snow or hail.<note place="foot">The mists are extremely deceptive to those who are on the mountain itself. +Sometimes they <hi rend='italic'>seem</hi> to be created at a <hi rend='italic'>considerable distance</hi>, as if the whole of the +atmosphere of the neighbourhood was undergoing a change, when in reality they are +being formed in immediate proximity to the mountain.</note> +</p> + +<p> +This opinion is borne out to some extent by the behaviour +of the neighbouring mountains. The Dom (14,935 feet) and the +Dent Blanche (14,318) have both of them large cliffs of bare rock +upon their southern sides, and against those cliffs clouds commonly +form (during fine, still weather) at the same time as the cloud on +the Matterhorn; whilst the Weisshorn (14,804) and the Lyskamm +(14,889), (mountains of about the same altitude, and which are in +corresponding situations to the former pair) usually remain perfectly +clear. +</p><anchor id="fig41"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: CROSSING THE CHANNEL.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus160.png" rend="w40"><head rend="ill">CROSSING THE CHANNEL.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: Crossing the Channel</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +I arrived at Chatillon at midnight on the 11th, defeated and +disconsolate; but, like a gambler who loses each throw, only the +more eager to have another try, to see if the luck would change: +and returned to London ready to devise fresh combinations, and +to form new plans. +</p> + +</div><div type="chapter" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='124'/><anchor id='Pg124'/> +<index index="toc" level1="Chapter VII. From St. Michel on the Mont Cenis road ..."/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Chapter VII. From St. Michel on the Mont Cenis road ..."/> +<head>CHAPTER VII.</head> + +<head type="sub">FROM ST. MICHEL ON THE MONT CENIS ROAD BY THE COL DES +AIGUILLES D’ARVE, COL DE MARTIGNARE, AND THE BRÈCHE DE +LA MEIJE TO LA BÉRARDE.</head> + +<epigraph><lg> +<l><q>The more to help the greater deed is done.</q></l> +<l rend="margin-left: 12"><hi rend='smallcaps'>Homer.</hi></l> +</lg></epigraph> + +<p> +When we arrived upon the highest summit of Mont Pelvoux, in +Dauphiné, in 1861, we saw, to our surprise and disappointment, +that it was not the culminating point of the district; and that +another mountain—distant about a couple of miles, and separated +from us by an impassable gulf—claimed that distinction. I was +troubled in spirit about this mountain, and my thoughts often +reverted to the great wall-sided peak, second in apparent inaccessibility +only to the Matterhorn. It had, moreover, another +claim to attention—it was the highest mountain <hi rend='smallcaps'>In</hi> France. +</p> + +<p> +The year 1862 passed away without a chance of getting to it, +and my holiday was too brief in 1863 even to think about it; but in +the following year it was possible, and I resolved to set my mind at +rest by completing the task which had been left unfinished in 1861. +</p> + +<p> +In the meantime others had turned their attention to Dauphiné. +First of all (in 1862) came Mr. F. Tuckett—that mighty mountaineer, +whose name is known throughout the length and breadth of +the Alps—with the guides Michel Croz, Peter Perrn, and Bartolommeo +Peyrotte, and great success attended his arms. But Mr. Tuckett +halted before the Pointe des Ecrins, and, dismayed by its appearance, +withdrew his forces to gather less dangerous laurels elsewhere. +</p> + +<p> +His expedition, however, threw some light upon the Ecrins. +He pointed out the direction from which an attack was most likely +to be successful, and Mr. William Mathews and the Rev. T. G. +<pb n='125'/><anchor id='Pg125'/>Bonney (to whom he communicated the result of his labours) +attempted to execute the ascent, with the brothers Michel and +J. B. Croz, by following his indications. But they too were +defeated, as I shall relate more particularly presently. +</p><anchor id="fig42"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: MICHEL-AUGUSTE CROZ (1865).]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus162.png" rend="w60"><head rend="ill">MICHEL-AUGUSTE CROZ (1865).</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: Michel-Auguste Crow (1865)</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +The guide Michel Croz had thus been engaged in both of +these expeditions in Dauphiné, and I naturally looked to him for +assistance. Mr. Mathews (to whom I applied for information) gave +him a high character, and concluded his reply to me by saying, +<q>he was only happy when upwards of 10,000 feet high.</q> +</p> + +<p> +I know what my friend meant. Croz was happiest when he +was employing his powers to the utmost. Places where you and I +would <q>toil and sweat, and yet be freezing cold,</q> were bagatelles to +him, and it was only when he got above the range of ordinary +mortals, and was required to employ his magnificent strength, +<pb n='126'/><anchor id='Pg126'/>and to draw upon his unsurpassed knowledge of ice and snow, that +he could be said to be really and truly happy. +</p> + +<p> +Of all the guides with whom I travelled, Michel Croz was +the man who was most after my own heart. He did not work like +a blunt razor, and take to his toil unkindly. He did not need +urging, or to be told a second time to do anything. You had but to +say <hi rend='italic'>what</hi> was to be done, and <hi rend='italic'>how</hi> it was to be done, and the work +<hi rend='italic'>was</hi> done, if it was possible. Such men are not common, and when +they are known they are valued. Michel was not widely known, +but those who did know him employed him again and again. The +inscription that is placed upon his tomb truthfully records that +he was <q>beloved by his comrades and esteemed by travellers.</q> +</p> + +<p> +At the time that I was planning my journey, my friends +Messrs. A. W. Moore and Horace Walker were also drawing up their +programme; and, as we found that our wishes were very similar, +we agreed to unite our respective parties. The excursions which are +described in this and the two following chapters are mutual ideas +which were jointly executed. +</p> + +<p> +Our united programme was framed so as to avoid sleeping in +inns, and so that we should see from the highest point attained on +one day a considerable portion of the route which was intended to +be followed on the next. This latter matter was an important +one to us, as all of our projected excursions were new ones, and led +over ground about which there was very little information in print. +</p> + +<p> +My friends had happily secured Christian Almer of Grindelwald +as their guide. The combination of Croz and Almer was a perfect +one. Both men were in the prime of life;<note place="foot">Croz was born at the Village du Tour, in the valley of Chamounix, on April 22, +1830; Almer was a year or two older.</note> both were endued with +strength and activity far beyond the average; and the courage and +the knowledge of each was alike undoubted. The temper of Almer +it was impossible to ruffle; he was ever obliging and enduring,—a +bold but a safe man. That which he lacked in fire—in dash—was +supplied by Croz, who, in his turn, was kept in place by Almer. +<pb n='127'/><anchor id='Pg127'/>It is pleasant to remember how they worked together, and how +each one confided to you that he liked the other so much because +he worked so well; but it is sad, very sad, to those who have +known the men, to know that they can never work together again. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +We met at St. Michel on the Mont Cenis road, at midday on +June 20, 1864, and proceeded in the afternoon over the Col de +Valloires to the village of the same name. The summit of this +pretty little pass is about 3500 feet above St. Michel, and from it +we had a fair view of the Aiguilles d’Arve, a group of three peaks +of singular form, which it was our especial object to investigate.<note place="foot">The Pointe des Ecrins is also seen from the top of the Col de Valloires, rising +above the Col du Galibier. This is the lowest elevation from which I have seen the +actual summit of the Ecrins.</note> +They had been seen by ourselves and others from numerous distant +points, and always looked very high and very inaccessible; but we +had been unable to obtain any information about them, except the +few words in Joanne’s <hi rend='italic'>Itinéraire du Dauphiné</hi>. Having made out +from the summit of the Col de Valloires that they could be +approached from the Valley of Valloires, we hastened down to +find a place where we could pass the night, as near as possible +to the entrance of the little valley leading up to them. +</p> + +<p> +By nightfall we arrived at the entrance to this little valley (Vallon +des Aiguilles d’Arve), and found some buildings placed just where +they were wanted. The proprietress received us with civility, and +placed a large barn at our disposal, on the conditions that no lights +were struck or pipes smoked therein; and when her terms were +agreed to, she took us into her own chalet, made up a huge fire, +heated a gallon of milk, and treated us with genuine hospitality. +</p> + +<p> +In the morning we found that the Vallon des Aiguilles d’Arve +led away nearly due west from the Valley of Valloires, and that +the village of Bonnenuit was placed (in the latter valley) almost +exactly opposite to the junction of the two. +</p> + +<p> +At 3.55 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> on the 21st we set out up the Vallon, passed for a +time over pasture-land, and then over a stony waste, deeply +chan<pb n='128'/><anchor id='Pg128'/>nelled by watercourses. At 5.30 the two principal Aiguilles were +well seen, and as, by this time, it was evident that the authors of +the Sardinian official map had romanced as +extensively in this neighbourhood as elsewhere, +it was necessary to hold a council. +</p><anchor id="ill128"/> +<anchor id="fig43"/><figure url="images/illus165.png" rend="w100"> +<figDesc>Illustration: Plan to show route</figDesc></figure> +<p> +Three questions were submitted to it:—Firstly, Which is the +highest of these Aiguilles? Secondly, Which shall we go up? +Thirdly, How is it to be done? +</p> + +<p> +The French engineers, it was said, had determined that the +two highest of them were respectively 11,513 and 11,529 feet in +height; but we were without information as to which two they +had measured.<note place="foot">It should be observed that these mountains were included in the territory +recently ceded to France. The Sardinian map above referred to was the old official +map. The French survey alluded to afterwards is the survey in continuation of the +great French official map. Sheet No. 179 includes the Aiguilles d’Arve.</note> Joanne indeed said (but without specifying +whether he meant all three) that the Aiguilles had been several +times ascended, and particularly mentioned that the one of +11,513 feet was <q>relatively easy.</q> +</p> + +<p> +We therefore said, <q>We will go up the peak of 11,529 feet.</q> +That determination did not settle the second question. Joanne’s +<q>relatively easy</q> peak, according to his description, was evidently +the most northern of the three. <hi rend='italic'>Our</hi> peak then was to be one of the +other two;—but which of them? We were inclined to favour the +central one; but it was hard to determine, they looked so equal +in height. When, however, the council came to study the third +<pb n='129'/><anchor id='Pg129'/>question—<q>How is it to be done?</q> it was unanimously voted that +upon the eastern and southern sides it was certainly <q>relatively</q> difficult, +and that a move should be made round to the northern side. +</p> + +<p> +The movement was duly executed, and after wading up some +snow-slopes of considerable steepness (going occasionally beyond +40°), we found ourselves in a gap or nick, between the central and +northernmost Aiguille, at 8.45 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> We then studied the northern +face of our intended peak, and finally arrived at the conclusion that +it was <q>relatively</q> impracticable. Croz shrugged his big shoulders, +and said, <q>My faith! I think you will do well to leave it to others.</q> +Almer was more explicit, and volunteered the information that a +thousand francs would not tempt him to <hi rend='italic'>try</hi> it. We then turned +to the northernmost peak, but found its southern faces even more +hopeless than the northern faces of the central one. We enjoyed +accordingly the unwonted luxury of a three-hours’ rest on the top +of our pass; for pass we were determined it should be. +</p> + +<p> +We might have done worse. We were 10,300 or 10,400 feet +above the level of the sea, and commanded a most picturesque view +of the mountains of the Tarentaise; while, somewhat east of south, +we saw the monarch of the Dauphiné <hi rend='italic'>massif</hi>, whose closer acquaintance +it was our intention to make. Three sunny hours passed away, +and then we turned to the descent. We saw the distant pastures of +a valley (which we supposed was the Vallon or Ravine de la Sausse), +and a long snow-slope leading down to them. But from that slope +we were cut off by precipitous rocks, and our first impression +was that we should have to return in our track. Some running +up and down, however, discovered two little gullies, filled with +threads of snow, and down the most northern of these we decided +to go. It was a steep way but a safe one, for the cleft was so +narrow that we could press the shoulder against one side whilst the +feet were against the other, and the last remnant of the winter’s +snow, well hardened, clung to the rift with great tenacity, and +gave us a path when the rocks refused one. In half-an-hour we +got to the top of the great snow-slope. Walker said—<q>Let us +<pb n='130'/><anchor id='Pg130'/>glissade;</q> the guides—<q>No, it is too steep.</q> Our friend, however, +started off at a standing glissade, and advanced for a time +very skilfully; but after a while he lost his balance, and progressed +downwards and backwards with great rapidity, in a way that +seemed to us very much like tumbling head over heels. He let +go his axe, and left it behind, but it overtook him and batted him +heartily. He and it travelled in this fashion for some hundreds of +feet, and at last subsided into the rocks at the bottom. In a few +moments we were reassured as to his safety, by hearing him +ironically request us not to keep him waiting down there. +</p><anchor id="fig44"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE AIGUILLES D’ARVE, FROM ABOVE THE CHALETS OF RIEU BLANC, SHOWING ROUTE.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus167.png" rend="w100"> + <head rend="ill">THE AIGUILLES D’ARVE, FROM ABOVE THE CHALETS OF RIEU BLANC, SHOWING ROUTE.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: The Aiguilles d’Arve, from above the chalets of Rieu Blanc</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +We others followed the track shown by the dotted line upon the +<ref target="fig44">engraving</ref> (making zigzags to avoid the little groups of rocks which +jutted through the snow, by which Walker had been upset), descended +by a <hi rend='italic'>sitting</hi> glissade, and rejoined our friend at the bottom. +We then turned sharply to the left, and tramped down the summit +ridge of an old moraine of great size. Its mud was excessively +<pb n='131'/><anchor id='Pg131'/>hard, and where some large erratic blocks lay perched upon its +crest, we were obliged to cut steps (in the mud) with our ice-axes. +</p> + +<p> +Guided by the sound of a distant <q>moo,</q> we speedily found the +highest chalets in the valley, named Rieu Blanc. They were +tenanted by three old women (who seemed to belong to one of the +missing links sought by naturalists), destitute of all ideas except in +regard to cows, and who spoke a barbarous patois, well-nigh unintelligible +to the Savoyard Croz. They would not believe that we +had passed between the Aiguilles,—<q>It is impossible, the <hi rend='italic'>cows</hi> +never go there.</q> <q>Could we get to La Grave over yonder ridge?</q> +<q>Oh yes! the <hi rend='italic'>cows</hi> often crossed!</q> Could they show us the way? +No; but we could follow the <hi rend='italic'>cow</hi>-tracks. +</p> + +<p> +We stayed a while near these chalets, to examine the western +sides of the Aiguilles d’Arve, and, according to our united opinion, +the central one was as inaccessible from this direction as from the +east, north, or south. On the following day we saw them again, +from a height of about 11,000 feet, in a south-easterly direction, +and our opinion remained unchanged. +</p> + +<p> +We saw (on June 20-22) the central Aiguille from all sides, +and very nearly completely round the southernmost one. The +northern one we also saw on all sides excepting from the north. (It +is, however, precisely from this direction M. Joanne says that its +ascent is relatively easy.) We do not, therefore, venture to express +any opinion respecting its ascent, except as regards its actual +summit. This is formed of two curious prongs, or pinnacles of +rock, and we do not understand in what way they (or either of +them) can be ascended; nor shall we be surprised if this ascent is +discovered to have been made in spirit rather than body; in fact, +in the same manner as the celebrated ascent of Mont Blanc, <q>not +entirely to the summit, but as far as the Montanvert!</q> +</p> + +<p> +All three of the Aiguilles <hi rend='italic'>may</hi> be accessible, but they <hi rend='italic'>look</hi> as +inaccessible as anything I have seen. They are the highest +summits between the valleys of the Romanche and the Arc; they +are placed slightly to the north of the watershed between those +<pb n='132'/><anchor id='Pg132'/>two valleys, and a line drawn through them runs, pretty nearly, +north and south. +</p> + +<p> +We descended by a rough path from Rieu Blanc to the chalets +of La Sausse, which give the name to the Vallon or Ravine de la +Sausse, in which they are situated. This is one of the numerous +branches of the valley that descends to St. Jean d’Arve, and subsequently +to St. Jean de Maurienne. +</p> + +<p> +Two passes, more or less known, lead from this valley to the +village of La Grave (on the Lautaret road) in the valley of the +Romanche, viz.:—the Col de l’Infernet and the Col de Martignare. +The former pass was crossed, many years ago, by J. D. Forbes, +and was mentioned by him in his <hi rend='italic'>Norway and its Glaciers</hi>. The +latter one lies to the north of the former, and is seldom traversed +by tourists, but it was convenient for us, and we set out to cross it +on the morning of the 22d, after having passed a comfortable, but +not luxurious, night in the hay, at La Sausse, where, however, the +simplicity of the accommodation was more than counterbalanced +by the civility and hospitality of the people in charge.<note place="foot"><p> +Whilst stopping in the hospice on the Col de Lautaret, in 1869, I was accosted +by a middle-aged peasant, who asked if I would ride (for a consideration) in his cart +towards Briançon. He was inquisitive as to my knowledge of his district, and at +last asked, <q>Have you been at La Sausse?</q> <q>Yes.</q> <q>Well, then, I tell you, <hi rend='italic'>you +saw there some of the first people in the world</hi>.</q> <q>Yes,</q> I said, <q>they were primitive, +certainly.</q> But he was serious, and went on—<q>Yes, real brave people;</q> and, slapping +his knee to give emphasis, <q><hi rend='italic'>but that they are first-rate for minding the cows!</hi></q> +</p> + +<p> +After this he became communicative. <q>You thought, probably,</q> said he, +<q>when I offered to take you down, that I was some poor ——, not worth a <hi rend='italic'>sou</hi>; but +I will tell you, that was my mountain! <hi rend='italic'>my</hi> mountain! that you saw at La Sausse; +they were <hi rend='italic'>my</hi> cows! a hundred of them altogether.</q> <q>Why, you are rich.</q> <q>Passably +rich. I have another mountain on the Col du Galibier, and another at Villeneuve.</q> +He (although a common peasant in outward appearance) confessed to being +worth four thousand pounds. +</p></note> +</p> + +<p> +[Our object now was to cross to La Grave (on the high road +from Grenoble to Briançon), and to ascend, <hi rend='italic'>en route</hi>, some point +sufficiently high to give us a good view of the Dauphiné Alps in +general, and of the grand chain of the Meije in particular. Before +<pb n='133'/><anchor id='Pg133'/>leaving England a careful study of <q>Joanne</q> had elicited the fact +that the shortest route from La Sausse to La Grave was by the +Col de Martignare; and also that from the aforesaid Col it was +possible to ascend a lofty summit, called by him the Bec-du-Grenier, +also called Aiguille de Goléon. On referring, however, to the +Sardinian survey, we found there depicted, to the east of the Col +de Martignare, not <hi rend='italic'>one</hi> peak bearing the above <hi rend='italic'>two</hi> names, but <hi rend='italic'>two +distinct summits</hi>; one—just above the Col—the Bec-du-Grenier +(the height of which was not stated); the other, still farther to the +east, and somewhat to the south of the watershed—the Aiguille du +Goléon (11,250 English feet in height), with a very considerable +glacier—the Glacier Lombard—between the two. On the French +map,<note place="foot">We had seen a tracing from the unpublished sheets of the French Government +Survey.</note> on the other hand, neither of the above names was to be +found, but a peak called Aiguille de la Sausse (10,897 feet), was +placed in the position assigned to the Bec-du-Grenier in the Sardinian +map; while farther to the east was a second and nameless +peak (10,841), not at all in the position given to the Aiguille du +Goléon, of which and of the Glacier Lombard there was not a sign. +All this was very puzzling and unsatisfactory; but as we had no +doubt of being able to climb one of the points to the east of the +Col de Martignare (which overhung the Ravine de la Sausse), we +determined to make that col the basis of our operations.]<note place="foot"><p> +The bracketed paragraphs in Chaps. VII. VIII. and IX. are extracted from the +Journal of Mr. A. W. Moore. +</p> + +<p> +It would be uninteresting and unprofitable to enter into a discussion of the confusion +of these names at greater length. It is sufficient to say that they were +confounded in a most perplexing manner by all the authorities we were able to +consult, and also by the natives on the spot. +</p></note> +</p> + +<p> +We left the chalets at 4.15 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> [under a shower of good +wishes from our hostesses], proceeded at first towards the upper end +of the ravine, then doubled back up a long buttress which projects +in an unusual way, and went towards the Col de Martignare; but +before arriving at its summit we again doubled, and resumed the +<pb n='134'/><anchor id='Pg134'/>original course.<note place="foot">A great part of this morning’s route led over shales, which were loose and +troublesome, and were probably a continuation of the well-known beds of the Col du +Galibier and the Col de Lautaret.</note> At 6 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> we stood on the watershed, and followed +it towards the east; keeping for some distance strictly to the +ridge, and afterwards diverging a little to the south to avoid a considerable +secondary aiguille, which prevented a straight track being +made to the summit at which we were aiming. At 9.15 we stood +on its top, and saw at once the lay of the land. +</p> + +<p> +We found that our peak was one of four which enclosed a +plateau that was filled by a glacier. Let us call these summits +<hi rend='antiqua'>A</hi>, <hi rend='antiqua'>B</hi>, <hi rend='antiqua'>C</hi>, <hi rend='antiqua'>D</hi> + (see plan on <ref target="fig43">p. 128</ref>). We stood upon <hi rend='antiqua'>C</hi>, which was almost +exactly the same elevation as <hi rend='antiqua'>B</hi>, but was higher than <hi rend='antiqua'>D</hi>, and lower +than <hi rend='antiqua'>A</hi>. Peak <hi rend='antiqua'>A</hi> was the highest of the four, and was about 200 +feet higher than <hi rend='antiqua'>B</hi> and <hi rend='antiqua'>C</hi>; we identified it as the Aiguille de Goléon +(French survey, 11,250 feet). Peak <hi rend='antiqua'>D</hi> we considered was the Bec-du-Grenier; +and, in default of other names, we called <hi rend='antiqua'>B</hi> and <hi rend='antiqua'>C</hi> the +Aiguilles de la Sausse. The glacier flowed in a south-easterly +direction, and was the Glacier Lombard. +</p> + +<p> +Peaks <hi rend='antiqua'>B</hi> and <hi rend='antiqua'>C</hi> overhung the Ravine de la Sausse, and were +connected with another aiguille—<hi rend='antiqua'>E</hi>—which did the same. A continuation +of the ridge out of which these three aiguilles rose joined +the Aiguilles d’Arve. The head of the Ravine de la Sausse was +therefore encircled by six peaks; three of which it was convenient +to term the Aiguilles de la Sausse, and the others were the Aiguilles +d’Arve. +</p> + +<p> +We were very fortunate in the selection of our summit. Not to +speak of other things, it gave a grand view of the ridge which culminates +in the peak called La Meije (13,080 feet), which used to be +mentioned by travellers under the name Aiguille du Midi de la +Grave. The view of this mountain from the village of La Grave +itself can hardly be praised too highly,—it is one of the very finest +road-views in the Alps. The Ortler Spitz from the Stelvio is, in +fact, its only worthy competitor; and the opinions generally of +<pb n='135'/><anchor id='Pg135'/>those who have seen the two views are in favour of the former. +But from La Grave one can no more appreciate the noble proportions +and the towering height of the Meije, than understand the +symmetry of the dome of St. Paul’s by gazing upon it from the +churchyard. To see it fairly, one must be placed at a greater +distance and at a greater height. +</p> + +<p> +I shall not try to describe the Meije. The same words, and the +same phrases, have to do duty for one and another mountain; their +repetition becomes wearisome; and ’tis a discouraging fact that any +description, however true or however elaborated, seldom or never +gives an idea of the reality. +</p> + +<p> +Yet the Meije deserves more than a passing notice. It was +the last great Alpine peak which knew the foot of man, and +one can scarcely speak in exaggerated terms of its jagged ridges, +torrential glaciers, and tremendous precipices.<note place="foot"><p> +The ridge called La Meije runs from E.S.E. to W.N.W., and is crowned by +numerous aiguilles of tolerably equal elevation. The two highest are towards the +eastern and western ends of the ridge, and are rather more than a mile apart. To +the former the French surveyors assign a height of 12,730, and to the latter 13,080 +feet. In our opinion the western aiguille can hardly be more than 200 feet higher +than the eastern one. It is possible that its height may have diminished since it +was measured. +</p> + +<p> +In 1869 I carefully examined the eastern end of the ridge from the top of the Col +de Lautaret, and saw that the summit at that end can be ascended by following a +long glacier which descends from it towards the N.E. into the Valley of Arsine. +The highest summit presents considerable difficulties. +</p> + +<p> +Sheet 189 of the French map is extremely inaccurate in the neighbourhood of the +Meije, and particularly so on its northern side. The ridges and glaciers which are +laid down upon it can scarcely be identified on the spot. +</p></note> But were I to +discourse upon these things without the aid of pictures, or to +endeavour to convey in <hi rend='italic'>words</hi> a sense of the loveliness of <hi rend='italic'>curves</hi>, +of the beauty of <hi rend='italic'>colour</hi>, or of the harmonies of <hi rend='italic'>sound</hi>, I should try +to accomplish that which is impossible; and, at the best, should +succeed in but giving an impression that the things spoken of may +have been pleasant to hear or to behold, although they are perfectly +incomprehensible to read about. Let me therefore avoid these +<pb n='136'/><anchor id='Pg136'/>things, not because I have no love for or thought of them, but +because they cannot be translated into language; and presently, +when topographical details must, of necessity, be returned to again, +I will endeavour to relieve the poverty of the pen by a free use of +the pencil. +</p> + +<p> +Whilst we sat upon the Aiguille de la Sausse, our attention was +concentrated on a point that was immediately opposite—on a gap +or cleft between the Meije and the mountain called the Rateau. +It was, indeed, in order to have a good view of this place that we +made the ascent of the Aiguille. It (that is the gap itself) looked, +as my companions remarked, obtrusively and offensively a pass. +It had not been crossed, but it ought to have been; and this +seemed to have been recognised by the natives, who called it, very +appropriately, the Brèche de la Meije. +</p> + +<p> +I had seen the place in 1860, and again in 1861, but had not +then thought about getting through it; and our information in respect +to it was chiefly derived from a photographic reproduction of +the then unpublished sheet 189, of the great map of France, which +Mr. Tuckett, with his usual liberality, had placed at our disposal. +It was evident from this map that if we could succeed in passing +the Brèche, we should make the most direct route between the village +of La Grave and that of Bérarde in the Department of the Isère, and +that the distance between these two places by this route, would be +less than one-third that of the ordinary way via the villages of +Freney and Venos. It may occur to some of my readers, why had it +not been done before? For the very sound reason that the valley +on its southern side (Vallon des Etançons) is uninhabited, and +La Bérarde itself is a miserable village, without interest, without +commerce, and almost without population. Why then did we wish +to cross it? Because we were bound to the Pointe des Ecrins, to +which La Bérarde was the nearest inhabited place. +</p> + +<p> +When we sat upon the Aiguille de la Sausse, we were rather +despondent about our prospects of crossing the Brèche, which +seemed to present a combination of all that was formidable. There +<pb n='137'/><anchor id='Pg137'/>was, evidently, but one way by which it could be approached. We +saw that at the top of the pass there was a steep wall of snow or +ice (so steep that it was most likely ice) protected at its base by a +big schrund or moat, which severed it from the snow-fields below. +Then (tracking our course downwards) we saw undulating snow-fields +leading down to a great glacier. The snow-fields would be +easy work, but the glacier was riven and broken in every direction; +huge crevasses seemed to extend entirely across it in some places, +and everywhere it had that strange twisted look, which tells of the +unequal motion of the ice. Where could we get on to it? At its +base it came to a violent end, being cut short by a cliff, over which +it poured periodical avalanches, as we saw by a great triangular +bed of débris below. We could not venture there,—the glacier +must be taken in flank. But on which side? Not on the west,—no +one could climb those cliffs. It must, if any where, be by +the rocks on the east; and <hi rend='italic'>they</hi> looked as if they were <hi rend='italic'>roches +moutonnées</hi>. +</p> + +<p> +So we hurried down to La Grave, to hear what Melchior +Anderegg (who had just passed through the village with the +family of our friend Walker) had to say on the matter. Who +is Melchior Anderegg? Those who ask the question cannot have +been in Alpine Switzerland, where the name of Melchior is as well +known as the name of Napoleon. Melchior, too, is an Emperor +in his way—a very Prince among guides. His empire is amongst +the <q>eternal snows,</q>—his sceptre is an ice-axe. +</p> + +<p> +Melchior Anderegg, more familiarly, and perhaps more generally +known simply as Melchior, was born at Zaun, near +Meiringen, on April 6, 1828. He was first brought into public +notice in Hinchcliff’s <hi rend='italic'>Summer Months in the Alps</hi>, and was +known to very few persons at the time that little work was +published. In 1855 he was <q>Boots</q> at the Grimsel Hotel, and +in those days, when he went out on expeditions, it was for the +benefit of his master, the proprietor; Melchior himself only got +the <hi rend='italic'>trinkgelt</hi>. In 1856 he migrated to the Schwarenbach Inn on +<pb n='138'/><anchor id='Pg138'/>the Gemmi, where he employed his time in carving objects for +sale. In 1858 he made numerous expeditions with Messrs. +Hinchcliff and Stephen, and proved to his employers that he +possessed first-rate skill, indomitable courage, and an admirable +character. His position has never been doubtful since that year, +and for a long time there has +been no guide whose services +have been more in request: he +is usually engaged a year in +advance. +</p> + +<p> +It would be almost an easier +task to say what he has not done +than to catalogue his achievements. +Invariable success attends +his arms; he leads his +followers to victory, but not to +death. I believe that no serious +accident has ever befallen travellers +in his charge. Like his +friend Almer, he can be called +a <hi rend='italic'>safe</hi> man. It is the highest +praise that can be given to a +first-rate guide. +</p><anchor id="fig45"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: MELCHIOR ANDEREGG IN 1864.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus175.png" rend="w60"><head rend="ill">MELCHIOR ANDEREGG IN 1864.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: Melchior Anderegg in 1864</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +Early in the afternoon we +found ourselves in the little inn +at La Grave, on the great +Lautaret road, a rickety, tumble-down +sort of place, with nothing stable about it, as Moore wittily +remarked, except the smell.<note place="foot">The justness of the observation will be felt by those who knew La Grave in +or before 1864. At that time the horses of the couriers who were passing from +Grenoble to Briançon, and <hi rend='italic'>vice versa</hi>, were lodged immediately underneath the +salle-à -manger and bedrooms, and a pungent, steamy odour rose from them through +the cracks in the floor, and constantly pervaded the whole house. I am told that the +inn has been considerably improved since 1864.</note> Melchior had gone, and had left +<pb n='139'/><anchor id='Pg139'/>behind a note which said, <q>I think the passage of the Brèche +is possible, but that it will be very difficult.</q> His opinion coincided +with ours, and we went to sleep, expecting to be afoot +about eighteen or twenty hours on the morrow. +</p> + +<p> +At 2.40 the next morning we left La Grave, in a few minutes +crossed the Romanche, and at 4 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> got to the moraine of the +eastern branch of the glacier that descends from the Brèche.<note place="foot">Our route from La Grave to La Bérarde will be seen on the + <ref target="fig46">accompanying map</ref>.</note> +The rocks by which we intended to ascend were placed between +the two branches of this glacier, and still looked smooth and unbroken. +By 5 o’clock we were upon them, and saw that we had +been deluded by them. No carpenter could have planned a more +convenient staircase. They were <hi rend='italic'>not moutonnée</hi>, their smooth look +from a distance was only owing to their singular firmness. [It was +really quite a pleasure to scale such delightful rocks. We felt +the stone held the boot so well, that, without making a positive +effort to do so, it would be almost impossible to slip.] In an hour +we had risen above the most crevassed portion of the glacier, and +began to look for a way on to it. Just at the right place there +was a patch of old snow at the side, and, instead of gaining the ice +by desperate acrobatic feats, we passed from the rocks on to it as +easily as one walks across a gangway. At half-past 6 we were +on the centre of the glacier, and the inhabitants of La Grave +turned out <hi rend='italic'>en masse</hi> into the road, and watched us with amazement +as they witnessed the falsification of their confident predictions. +Well might they stare, for our little caravan, looking to +them like a train of flies on a wall, crept up and up, without +hesitation and without a halt—lost to their sight one minute as +it dived into a crevasse, then seen again clambering up the other +side. The higher we rose the easier became the work, the angles +lessened, and our pace increased. The snow remained shadowed, +and we walked as easily as on a high road; and when (at 7.45) +the summit of the Brèche was seen, we rushed at it as furiously + +<pb n='140'/><anchor id='Pg140'/>as if it had been a breach in the wall of a fortress, carried the +moat by a dash, with a push behind and a pull before, stormed the +steep slope above, and at 8.50 stood in the +little gap, 11,054 feet above the level of the +sea. The Brèche was won. Well might +they stare; five hours and a quarter had +sufficed for 6500 feet of ascent.<note place="foot">Taking one kind of work with another, a thousand feet of height per hour is +about as much as is usually accomplished on great Alpine ascents.</note> We +screamed triumphantly as they turned in +to breakfast. +</p><anchor id="fig46"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: Map of the Brèche de la Meije, etc.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus177.png" rend="w40"><head rend="ill">SCALE, THREE MILES TO AN INCH.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: Map of the Brèche de la Meije, etc.</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +All mountaineers know how valuable it +is to study beforehand an intended route +over new ground from a height at some +distance. None but blunderers fail to do +so, if it is possible; and one cannot do so +too thoroughly. As a rule, the closer one +approaches underneath a summit, the more +difficult it is to pick out a path with judgment. +Inferior peaks seem unduly important, +subordinate ridges are exalted, and +slopes conceal points beyond; and if one +blindly undertakes an ascent, without +having acquired a tolerable notion of the +relative importance of the parts, and of +their positions to one another, it will be miraculous if great +difficulties are not encountered. +</p> + +<p> +But although the examination of an intended route from a +height at a distance will tell one (who knows the meaning of the +things he is looking at) a good deal, and will enable him to steer +clear of many difficulties against which he might otherwise blindly +run, it will seldom allow one to pronounce positively upon the +practicability or impracticability of the whole of the route. No +living man, for example, can pronounce positively from a distance +<pb n='141'/><anchor id='Pg141'/>in regard to rocks. Those just mentioned are an illustration of +this. Three of the ablest and most experienced guides concurred +in thinking that they would be found very difficult, and yet they +presented no difficulty whatever. In truth, the sounder and less +broken up are the rocks, the more impracticable do they usually +look from a distance; while soft and easily rent rocks, which are +often amongst the most difficult and perilous to climb, very frequently +look from afar as if they might be traversed by a child. +</p> + +<p> +It is possible to decide with greater certainty in regard to the +practicability of glaciers. When one is seen to have few open crevasses +(and this may be told from a great distance), then we know +that it is <hi rend='italic'>possible</hi> to traverse it; but to what extent it, or a glacier +that is much broken up by crevasses, will be troublesome, will +depend upon the width and length of the crevasses, and upon the +angles of the surface of the glacier itself. A glacier may be greatly +crevassed, but the fissures may be so narrow that there is no occasion +to deviate from a straight line when passing across them; or +a glacier may have few open crevasses, and yet may be practically +impassable on account of the steepness of the angles of its surface. +Nominally, a man with an axe can go anywhere upon a glacier, but +in practice it is found that to move freely upon ice one must have +to deal only with small angles. It is thus necessary to know +approximately the angles of the surfaces of a glacier before it is +possible to determine whether it will afford easy travelling, or will +be so difficult as to be (for all practical purposes) impassable. This +cannot be told by looking at glaciers in full face from a distance; +they must be seen in profile; and it is often desirable to examine +them both from the front and in profile,—to do the first to study +the direction of the crevasses, to note where they are most and least +numerous; and the second to see whether its angles are moderate +or great. Should they be very steep, it may be better to avoid +them altogether, and to mount even by difficult rocks; but upon +glaciers of <hi rend='italic'>gentle</hi> inclination, and with few open crevasses, better +progress can always be made than upon the <hi rend='italic'>easiest</hi> rocks. +</p> + +<pb n='142'/><anchor id='Pg142'/> + +<p> +So much to explain why we were deceived when looking at the +Brèche de la Meije from the Aiguille de la Sausse. We took note +of all the difficulties, but did not pay sufficient attention to the +distance that the Brèche was south of La Grave. My meaning will +be apparent from the accompanying <ref target="fig47">diagram</ref>, Fig. 1 (constructed +upon the data supplied by the French surveyors), which will also +serve to illustrate how badly angles of elevation are judged by the +unaided eye. +</p><anchor id="fig47"/> +<figure url="images/illus179.png" rend="w100"> + <figDesc>Illustration: Diagram to show angle of summit of Meije, etc.</figDesc> + </figure> +<p> +The village of La Grave is just 5000 feet, and the highest +summit of the Meije is 13,080 feet above the level of the sea. +There is therefore a difference in their levels of 8080 feet. But +the summit of the Meije is south of La Grave about 14,750 feet, +and, consequently, a line drawn from La Grave to the summit of the +Meije is no steeper than the dotted line drawn from <hi rend='antiqua'>A</hi> to <hi rend='antiqua'>C</hi>, + <ref target="fig47">Fig. 1</ref>; +or, in other words, if one could go in a direct line from La Grave +to the summit of the Meije the ascent would be at an angle of less +than 30°. Nine persons out of ten would probably estimate the +angle on the spot at double this amount.<note place="foot"><ref target="fig47">Fig. 2</ref> represents in a similar manner the distance and elevation of the Matterhorn +from and above Zermatt. See <ref target="Pg045">p. 45</ref>.</note> +</p> + +<p> +The Brèche is 2000 feet below the summit of the Meije, and +only 6000 feet above La Grave. A direct ascent from the village +to the Brèche would consequently be at an angle of not much more +than 20°. But it is not possible to make the ascent as the crow +flies; it has to be made by an indirect and much longer route. +Our track was probably double the length of a direct line between +the two places. Doubling the length halved the angles, and we +<pb n='143'/><anchor id='Pg143'/>therefore arrive at the somewhat amazing conclusion, that upon +this, one of the steepest passes in the Alps, the mean of all +the angles upon the ascent could not have been greater than +11° or 12°. Of course, in some places, the angles were much +steeper, and in others less, but the <hi rend='italic'>mean</hi> of the whole could not +have passed the angle above indicated. +</p><anchor id="fig48"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE VALLON DES ETANÇONS (LOOKING TOWARDS LA BÉRARDE).<note place="foot">The drawing was inadvertently made the right way on the wood, and the view +is now <hi rend='italic'>reversed</hi> in consequence.</note>]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus180.png" rend="w100"> + <head rend="ill">THE VALLON DES ETANÇONS (LOOKING TOWARDS LA BÉRARDE).<note place="foot">The drawing was inadvertently made the right way on the wood, and the view +is now <hi rend='italic'>reversed</hi> in consequence.</note></head> + <figDesc>Illustration: The Vallon des Etançons</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +We did not trouble ourselves much with these matters when +we sat on the top of the Brèche. Our day’s work was as good +as over (for we knew from Messrs. Mathews and Bonney that +there was no difficulty upon the other side), and we abandoned +ourselves to ease and luxury; wondering, alternately, as we gazed +upon the Rateau and the Ecrins, how the one mountain could +<pb n='144'/><anchor id='Pg144'/>possibly hold itself together, and whether the other would hold +out against us. The former looked [so rotten that it seemed as if +a puff of wind or a clap of thunder might dash the whole fabric to +pieces]; while the latter asserted itself the monarch of the group, +and towered head and shoulders above all the rest of the peaks +which form the great horse-shoe of Dauphiné. At length a cruel +rush of cold air made us shiver, and shift our quarters to a little +grassy plot, 3000 feet below—an oasis in a desert—where we +lay nearly four hours admiring the splendid wall of the Meije.<note place="foot">This wall may be described as an exaggerated Gemmi, as seen from Leukerbad. +From the highest summit of La Meije right down to the Glacier des Etançons (a +depth of about 3200 feet), the cliff is all but perpendicular, and appears to be completely +unassailable. It is the most imposing thing of its kind that I have seen.</note> +Then we tramped down the Vallon des Etançons, a howling wilderness, +the abomination of desolation; destitute alike of animal +or vegetable life; pathless, of course; suggestive of chaos, but +of little else; covered almost throughout its entire length with +débris from the size of a walnut up to that of a house; in a +word, it looked as if half-a-dozen moraines of first-rate dimensions +had been carted and shot into it. Our tempers were soured by +constant pitfalls [it was impossible to take the eyes from the feet, +and if an unlucky individual so much as blew his nose, without +standing still to perform the operation, the result was either +an instantaneous tumble, or a barked shin, or a half-twisted ankle. +There was no end to it, and we became more savage at every step, +unanimously agreeing that no power on earth would ever induce +us to walk up or down this particular valley again.] It was +not just to the valley, which was enclosed by noble mountains,—unknown, +it is true, but worthy of a great reputation, and +which, if placed in other districts, would be sought after, and +cited as types of daring form and graceful outline.<note place="foot">Since this chapter was first printed, the whole of the Aiguilles d’Arve have +been ascended, and also the highest point of the Meije. For information upon these +ascents the reader is referred to the pages of the <hi rend='italic'>Alpine Journal</hi>.</note> +</p> +</div><div type="chapter" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='145'/><anchor id='Pg145'/> +<index index="toc" level1="Chapter VIII. The first ascent of the Pointe des Ecrins"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Chapter VIII. The first ascent of the Pointe des Ecrins"/> +<head>CHAPTER VIII</head> + +<head type="sub">THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE POINTE DES ECRINS.</head> + +<epigraph><p> +<q>Filled with high mountains, rearing their heads as if to reach to heaven, crowned +with glaciers, and fissured with immense chasms, where lie the eternal snows guarded +by bare and rugged cliffs; offering the most varied sights, and enjoying all temperatures; +and containing everything that is most curious and interesting, the most +simple and the most sublime, the most smiling and the most severe, the most beautiful +and the most awful; such is the department of the High Alps.</q><lb/><hi rend='smallcaps'>Ladoucette.</hi> +</p> +</epigraph> + +<p> +Before 5 o’clock on the afternoon of June 23, we were trotting +down the steep path that leads into La Bérarde. We put up, of +course, with the chasseur-guide Rodier (who, as usual, was smooth +and smiling), and, after congratulations were over, we returned to +the exterior to watch for the arrival of one Alexander Pic, who had +been sent overnight with our baggage <hi rend='italic'>viâ</hi> Freney and Venos. But +when the night fell, and no Pic appeared, we saw that our plans +must be modified; for he was necessary to our very existence—he +carried our food, our tobacco, our all. So, after some discussion, it +was agreed that a portion of our programme should be abandoned, +that the night of the 24th should be passed at the head of the +Glacier de la Bonne Pierre, and that, on the 25th, a push should +be made for the summit of the Ecrins. We then went to straw. +</p> + +<p> +Our porter Pic strolled in next morning with a very jaunty +air, and we seized upon our tooth-brushes; but, upon looking for +the cigars, we found starvation staring us in the face. <q>Hullo! +Monsieur Pic, where are our cigars?</q> <q>Gentlemen,</q> he began, <q>I +am desolated!</q> and then, quite pat, he told a long rigmarole about +a fit on the road, of brigands, thieves, of their ransacking the +knap<pb n='146'/><anchor id='Pg146'/>sacks when he was insensible, and of finding them gone when he +revived! <q>Ah! Monsieur Pic, we see what it is, you have smoked +them yourself!</q> <q>Gentlemen, I never smoke, <hi rend='italic'>never</hi>!</q> Whereupon +we inquired secretly if he was known to smoke, and found +that he was. However, he said that he had never spoken truer +words, and perhaps he had not, for he is reported to be the greatest +liar in Dauphiné! +</p><anchor id="fig49"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: Map of the central Dauphiné Alps]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus183.jpg" rend="w100"><head>THE CENTRAL DAUPHINÉ ALPS.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: Map of the central Dauphiné Alps</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +We were now able to start, and set out at 1.15 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> to bivouac +upon the Glacier de la Bonne Pierre, accompanied by Rodier, who +staggered under a load of blankets. Many slopes had to be mounted, +and many torrents to be crossed, all of which has been described +by Mr. Tuckett.<note place="foot"><hi rend='italic'>Alpine Journal</hi>, December 1863.</note> We, however, avoided the difficulties he experienced +with the latter by crossing them high up, where they were +subdivided. But when we got on to the moraine on the right bank +of the glacier (or, properly speaking, on to one of the moraines, for +there are several), mists descended, to our great hindrance; and +<pb n='147'/><anchor id='Pg147'/>it was 5.30 before we arrived on the spot at which it was intended +to camp. +</p> + +<p> +Each one selected his nook, and we then joined round a grand +fire made by our men. Fortnum and Mason’s portable soup was +sliced up and brewed, and was excellent; but it should be said +that before it <hi rend='italic'>was</hi> excellent, three times the quantity named in the +directions had to be used. Art is required in drinking as in +making this soup, and one point is this—always let your friends +drink first; not only because it is more polite, but because the +soup has a tendency to burn the mouth if taken too hot, and one +drink of the bottom is worth two of the top, as all the goodness +settles. +</p> + +<p> +[While engaged in these operations, the mist that enveloped the +glacier and surrounding peaks was becoming thinner; little bits of +blue sky appeared here and there, until suddenly, when we were +looking towards the head of the glacier, far, far above us, at an +almost inconceivable height, in a tiny patch of blue, appeared a +wonderful rocky pinnacle, bathed in the beams of the fast-sinking +sun. We were so electrified by the glory of the sight that it was +some seconds before we realised what we saw, and understood that +that astounding point, removed apparently miles from the earth, +was one of the highest summits of Les Ecrins; and that we hoped, +before another sun had set, to have stood upon an even loftier pinnacle. +The mists rose and fell, presenting us with a series of dissolving +views of ravishing grandeur, and finally died away, leaving +the glacier and its mighty bounding precipices under an exquisite +pale blue sky, free from a single speck of cloud.] +</p> + +<p> +The night passed over without anything worth mention, but we +had had occasion to observe in the morning an instance of the +curious evaporation that is frequently noticeable in the High Alps. +On the previous night we had hung up on a knob of rock our +mackintosh bag containing five bottles of Rodier’s bad wine. In +the morning, although the stopper appeared to have been in all +night, about four-fifths had evaporated. It was strange; my friends +<pb n='148'/><anchor id='Pg148'/>had not taken any, neither had I, and the guides each declared that +they had not seen any one touch it. In fact it was clear that +there was no explanation of the phenomenon, but in the dryness +of the air. Still it is remarkable that the dryness of the air (or +the evaporation of wine) is always greatest when a stranger is in +one’s party—the dryness caused by the presence of even a single +Chamounix porter is sometimes so great, that not four-fifths but +the entire quantity disappears. For a time I found difficulty in +combating this phenomenon, but at last discovered that if I used +the wine-flask as a pillow during the night, the evaporation was +completely stopped. +</p> + +<p> +At 4 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> we moved off across the glacier in single file towards +the foot of a great gully, which led from the upper slopes of the +glacier de la Bonne Pierre, to the lowest point in the ridge that +runs from the Ecrins to the mountain called Roche Faurio,—cheered +by Rodier, who now returned with his wraps to La +Bérarde. This gully (or <hi rend='italic'>couloir</hi>) was discovered and descended by +Mr. Tuckett, and we will now return for a minute to the explorations +of that accomplished mountaineer. +</p> + +<p> +In the year 1862 he had the good fortune to obtain from the +<hi rend='italic'>Dépôt de la Guerre</hi> at Paris, a MS. copy of the then unpublished +sheet 189 of the map of France, and with it in hand, he swept +backwards and forwards across the central Dauphiné Alps, untroubled +by the doubts as to the identity of peaks, which had perplexed +Mr. Macdonald and myself in 1861; and, enlightened by +it, he was able to point out (which he did in the fairest manner) +that we had confounded the Ecrins with another mountain—the +Pic Sans Nom. We made this blunder through imperfect knowledge +of the district and inaccurate reports of the natives;—but +it was not an extraordinary one (the two mountains are not unlike +each other), considering the difficulty that there is in obtaining +from any except the very highest summits a complete view of +this intricate group. +</p> + +<p> +The situations of the principal summits can be perceived at a +<pb n='149'/><anchor id='Pg149'/>glance on the <ref target="fig49">accompanying map</ref>, which is a reproduction of a portion +of sheet 189. The main ridge of the chain runs, at this part, +nearly north and south. Roche Faurio, at the northern extreme, is +3716 mètres, or 12,192 feet, above the level of the sea. The lowest +point between that mountain and the Ecrins (the Col des Ecrins) is +11,000 feet. The ridge again rises, and passes 13,000 feet in the +neighbourhood of the Ecrins. The highest summit of that mountain +(13,462 feet) is, however, placed a little to the east of and off +the main ridge. It then again falls, and in the vicinity of the Col +de la Tempe it is, perhaps, below 11,000 feet; but immediately to the +south of the summit of that pass, there is upon the ridge a point +which has been determined by the French surveyors to be 12,323 +feet. This peak is without a name. The ridge continues to gain +height as we come to the south, and culminates in the mountain +which the French surveyors have called Sommet de l’Aile Froide. +On the spot it is called, very commonly, the Aléfroide. +</p> + +<p> +There is some uncertainty respecting the elevation of this mountain. +The Frenchmen give 3925 mètres (12,878) as its highest +point, but Mr. Tuckett, who took a good theodolite to the top of +Mont Pelvoux (which he agreed with his predecessors had an elevation +of 12,973 feet), found that the summit of the Aléfroide was +elevated above his station 4′; and as the distance between the two +points was 12,467 feet, this would represent a difference in altitude +of 5 mètres in favour of the Aléfroide. I saw this mountain from +the summit of Mont Pelvoux in 1861, and was in doubt as to which +of the two was the higher, and in 1864, from the summit of the +Pointe des Ecrins (as will presently be related), it looked actually +higher than Mont Pelvoux. I have therefore little doubt but that +Mr. Tuckett is right in believing the Aléfroide to have an elevation +of about 13,000 feet, instead of 12,878, as determined by the French +surveyors. +</p> + +<p> +Mont Pelvoux is to the east of the Aléfroide and off the main +ridge, and the Pic Sans Nom (12,845 feet) is placed between these +two mountains. The latter is one of the grandest of the Dauphiné +<pb n='150'/><anchor id='Pg150'/>peaks, but it is shut in by the other mountains, and is seldom +seen except from a distance, and then is usually confounded with +the neighbouring summits. Its name has been accidentally omitted +on the map, but its situation is represented by the large patch of +rocks, nearly surrounded by glaciers, that is seen between the words +Ailefroide and Mt. Pelvoux. +</p> + +<p> +The lowest depression on the main ridge to the south of the +Aléfroide is the Col du Selé, and this, according to Mr. Tuckett, is +10,834 feet. The ridge soon rises again, and, a little farther to +the south, joins another ridge running nearly east and west. To a +mountain at the junction of these two ridges the Frenchmen have +given the singular name Crête des BÅ“ufs Rouges! The highest +point hereabouts is 11,332 feet; and a little to the west there is +another peak (Mont Bans) of 11,979 feet. The main ridge runs +from this last-named point, in a north-westerly direction, to the +Cols de Says, both of which exceed 10,000 feet. +</p> + +<p> +It will thus be seen that the general elevation of this main +ridge is almost equal to that of the range of Mont Blanc, or of the +central Pennine Alps; and if we were to follow it out more completely, +or to follow the other ridges surrounding or radiating from +it, we should find that there is a remarkable absence, throughout +the entire district, of low gaps and depressions, and that there are +an extraordinary number of peaks of medium elevation.<note place="foot">There are more than twenty peaks exceeding 12,000 feet, and thirty others +exceeding 11,000 feet, within the district bounded by the rivers Romanche, Drac, +and Durance.</note> The +difficulty which explorers have experienced in Dauphiné in identifying +peaks, has very much arisen from the elevation of the ridges +generally being more uniform than is commonly found in the Alps, +and the consequent facile concealment of one point by another. +The difficulty has been enhanced by the narrowness and erratic +courses of the valleys. +</p> + +<p> +The possession of the <q>advanced copy</q> of sheet 189 of the +French map, enabled Mr. Tuckett to grasp most of what I have just +<pb n='151'/><anchor id='Pg151'/>said, and much more; and he added, in 1862, three interesting +passes across this part of the chain to those already known. The +first, from Ville Vallouise to La Bérarde, <hi rend='italic'>viâ</hi> the village of Claux, +and the glaciers du Selé and de la Pilatte,—this he called the Col +du Selé; the second, between Ville Vallouise and Villar d’Arène +(on the Lautaret road) <hi rend='italic'>viâ</hi> Claux and the glaciers Blanc and +d’Arsine,—the Col du Glacier Blanc; and the third, from Vallouise +to La Bérarde, <hi rend='italic'>viâ</hi> the Glacier Blanc, the Glacier de l’Encula, and +the Glacier de la Bonne Pierre, the Col des Ecrins. +</p> + +<p> +This last pass was discovered accidentally. Mr. Tuckett set out +intending to endeavour to ascend the Pointe des Ecrins, but circumstances +were against him, as he relates in the following words:—<q>Arrived +on the plateau</q> (of the Glacier de l’Encula), <q>a most +striking view of the Ecrins burst upon us, and a hasty inspection +encouraged us to hope that its ascent would be practicable. On +the sides of La Bérarde and the Glacier Noir it presents, as has +been already stated, the most precipitous and inaccessible faces +that can well be conceived; but in the direction of the Glacier +de l’Encula, as the upper plateau of the Glacier Blanc is named +on the French map, the slopes are less rapid, and immense masses +of <hi rend='italic'>névé</hi> and <hi rend='italic'>séracs</hi> cover it nearly to the summit.</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q>The snow was in very bad order, and as we sank at each step +above the knee, it soon became evident that our prospects of +success were extremely doubtful. A nearer approach, too, disclosed +traces of fresh avalanches, and after much deliberation and +a careful examination through the telescope, it was decided that +the chances in our favour were too small to render it desirable +to waste time in the attempt.... I examined the map, from +which I perceived that the glacier seen through the gap</q> (in the +ridge running from Roche Faurio to the Ecrins) <q>to the west, at a +great depth below, must be that of La Bonne Pierre; and if a +descent to its head was practicable, a passage might probably be +effected to La Bérarde. On suggesting to Croz and Perrn that, +though baffled by the state of the snow on the Ecrins, we might +<pb n='152'/><anchor id='Pg152'/>still achieve something of interest and importance by discovering a +new col, they both heartily assented, and in a few minutes Perrn +was over the edge, and cutting his way down the rather formidable +<hi rend='italic'>couloir</hi>,</q> etc. etc.<note place="foot"><hi rend='italic'>Alpine Journal</hi>, Dec. 1863.</note> +</p> + +<p> +This was the couloir at the foot of which we found ourselves at +daybreak on the 25th of June 1864; but before commencing the +relation of our doings upon that eventful day, I must recount the +experiences of Messrs. Mathews and Bonney in 1862. +</p> + +<p> +These gentlemen, with the two Croz’s, attempted the ascent of +the Ecrins a few weeks after Mr. Tuckett had inspected the mountain. +On August 26, says Mr. Bonney, <q rend="post: none">we pushed on, and our +hopes each moment rose higher and higher; even the cautious +Michel committed himself so far as to cry, <q>Ah, malheureux +Ecrins, vous serez bientôt morts,</q> as we addressed ourselves to +the last slope leading up to the foot of the final cone. The old +proverb about <q>many a slip</q> was, however, to prove true on this +occasion. Arrived at the top of this slope, we found that we were +cut off from the peak by a formidable bergschrund, crossed by the +rottenest of snow-bridges. We looked to the right and to the left, +to see whether it would be possible to get on either arête at its +extremity; but instead of rising directly from the snow as they +appeared to do from below, they were terminated by a wall of +rock some forty feet high. There was but one place where the +bergschrund was narrow enough to admit of crossing, and there a +cliff of ice had to be climbed, and then a path to be cut up a steep +slope of snow, before the arête could be reached. At last, after +searching in vain for some time, Michel bade us wait a little, and +started off to explore the gap separating the highest peak from the +snow-dome on the right, and see if it were possible to ascend the +rocky wall. Presently he appeared, evidently climbing with +difficulty, and at last stood on the arête itself. Again we thought +the victory was won, and started off to follow him. Suddenly he +called to us to halt, and turned to descend. In a few minutes he +<pb n='153'/><anchor id='Pg153'/>stopped. After a long pause he shouted to his brother, saying that +he was not able to return by the way he had ascended. Jean was +evidently uneasy about him, and for some time we watched him +with much anxiety. At length he began to hew out steps in the +snow along the face of the peak towards us. Jean now left us, +and, making for the ice-cliff mentioned above, chopped away until, +after about a quarter of an hour’s labour, he contrived, somehow or +other, to worm himself up it, and began to cut steps to meet his +brother. Almost every step appeared to be cut right through the +snowy crust into the hard ice below, and an incipient stream of +snow came hissing down the sides of the peak as they dug it away +with their axes. Michel could not have been much more than +100 yards from us, and yet it was full three quarters of an hour +before the brothers met. This done, they descended carefully, +burying their axe-heads deep in the snow at every step.</q> +</p> + +<p> +<q>Michel’s account was that he had reached the arête with great +difficulty, and saw that it was practicable for some distance, in +fact, as far as he could see; but that the snow was in a most +dangerous condition, being very incoherent and resting on hard +ice; that when he began to descend in order to tell us this, he +found the rocks so smooth and slippery that return was impossible; +and that for some little time he feared that he should not be able +to extricate himself, and was in considerable danger. Of course +the arête could have been reached by the way our guides had +descended, but it was so evident that their judgment was against +proceeding, that we did not feel justified in urging them on. We +had seen so much of them that we felt sure they would never +hang back unless there was real danger, and so we gave the word +for retreating.</q><note place="foot"><hi rend='italic'>Alpine Journal</hi>, June 1863.</note> +</p> + +<p> +On both of these expeditions there was fine weather and plenty +of time. On each occasion the parties slept out at, and started +from, a considerable elevation, and arrived at the base of the +final peak of the Ecrins early in the day, and with plenty of +<pb n='154'/><anchor id='Pg154'/>superfluous energy. Guides and travellers alike, on each occasion, +were exceptional men, experienced mountaineers, who had proved +their skill and courage on numerous antecedent occasions, and who +were not accustomed to turn away from a thing merely because +it was difficult. On each occasion the attempts were abandoned +because the state of the snow on and below the final peak was +such that avalanches were anticipated; and, according to the judgment +of those who were concerned, there was such an amount of +positive danger from this condition of things, that it was unjustifiable +to persevere. +</p> + +<p> +We learnt privately, from Messrs. Mathews, Bonney, and +Tuckett, that unless the snow was in a good state upon the final +peak (that is to say, coherent and stable), we should probably be of +the same opinion as themselves; and that, although the face of the +mountain fronting the Glacier de l’Encula was much less steep +than its other faces, and was apparently the <hi rend='italic'>only</hi> side upon which +an attempt was at all likely to be successful, it was, nevertheless, +so steep, that for several days, at least, after a fall of snow upon it, +the chances in favour of avalanches would be considerable. +</p> + +<p> +The reader need scarcely be told, after all that has been said +about the variableness of weather in the High Alps, the chance was +small indeed that we should find upon the 25th of June, or any +other set day, the precise condition of affairs that was deemed indispensable +for success. We had such confidence in the judgment +of our friends, that it was understood amongst us the +ascent should be abandoned, unless the conditions were manifestly +favourable. +</p><anchor id="fig50"/> +<figure url="images/illus192.jpg" rend="w100"> +<figDesc>Illustration: The Pointe des Ecrins from the Col du Galibier</figDesc></figure> +<p> +By five minutes to six we were at the top of the gully (a first-rate +couloir, about 1000 feet high), and within sight of our work. +Hard, thin, and wedge-like as the Ecrins had looked from afar, +it had never looked so hard and so thin as it did when we emerged +from the top of the couloir through the gap in the ridge. No +tender shadows spoke of broad and rounded ridges, but sharp +and shadowless its serrated edges stood out against the clear +<pb n='155'/><anchor id='Pg155'/>sky.<note place="foot">The <ref target="fig50">above view</ref> of the Ecrins was taken from the summit of the Col du Galibier.</note> It had been +said that the +route must be +taken by one +of the ridges of the final peak, +but both were alike repellent, hacked +and notched in numberless places. They reminded me of my +failure on the Dent d’Hérens in 1863, and of a place on a similar +ridge, from which advance or retreat was alike difficult. But, +presuming one or other of these ridges or arêtes was practicable, +there remained the task of getting to them, for completely round +the base of the final peak swept an enormous bergschrund, almost +separating it from the slopes which lay beneath. It was evident +thus early that the ascent would not be accomplished without +exertion, and that it would demand all our faculties and all our +time. In more than one respect we were favoured. The mists +were gone, the day was bright and perfectly calm; there had +been a long stretch of fine weather beforehand, and the snow +was in excellent order; and, most important of all, the last +new snow which had fallen on the final peak, unable to support +itself, had broken away and rolled in a mighty avalanche, over +schrund, névé, séracs, over hills and valleys in the glacier +<pb n='156'/><anchor id='Pg156'/>(levelling one and filling the other), completely down to the +summit of the Col des Ecrins, where it lay in huge jammed masses, +powerless to harm us; and had made a broad track, almost a +road, over which, for part of the way at least, we might advance +with rapidity. +</p> + +<p> +We took in all this in a few minutes, and seeing there was no +time to be lost, despatched a hasty meal, left knapsacks, provisions, +and all incumbrances by the Col, started again at half-past six, and +made direct for the left side of the schrund, for it was there alone +that a passage was practicable. We crossed it at 8.10. Our route +can now be followed upon the <ref target="fig51">annexed outline</ref>. The arrow marked <hi rend='antiqua'>D</hi> +points out the direction of the +Glacier de la Bonne Pierre. The +ridge in front, that extends +right across, is the ridge that +is partially shown on the top +of the map at p. 146, leading +from Roche Faurio towards +the W.N.W. We arrived upon the plateau of the Glacier de +l’Encula, behind this ridge, from the direction of <hi rend='antiqua'>D</hi>, and then made +a nearly straight track to the left hand of the bergschrund at <hi rend='antiqua'>A</hi>. +</p><anchor id="fig51"/> +<figure url="images/illus193.png" rend="w80"> +<figDesc>Illustration: Outline to show route up Pointe des Ecrins</figDesc></figure> +<p> +Thus far there was no trouble, but the nature of the work +changed immediately. If we regard the upper 700 feet alone of +the final peak of the Ecrins, it may be described as a three-sided +pyramid. One face is towards the Glacier Noir, and forms one +of the sheerest precipices in the Alps. Another is towards the +Glacier du Vallon, and is less steep, and less uniform in angle than +the first. The third is towards the Glacier de l’Encula, and it was +by this one we approached the summit. Imagine a triangular +plane, 700 or 800 feet high, set at an angle exceeding 50°; let +it be smooth, glassy; let the uppermost edges be cut into spikes +and teeth, and let them be bent, some one way, some another. +Let the glassy face be covered with minute fragments of rock, +scarcely attached, but varnished with ice; imagine this, and then +<pb n='157'/><anchor id='Pg157'/>you will have a very faint idea of the face of the Ecrins on which +we stood. It was not possible to avoid detaching stones, which, as +they fell, cause words unmentionable to rise. The greatest friends +would have reviled each other in such a situation. We gained the +eastern arête, and endeavoured for half-an-hour to work upwards +towards the summit; but it was useless (each yard of progress cost +an incredible time); and having no desire to form the acquaintance +of the Glacier Noir in a precipitate manner, we beat a retreat, and +returned to the schrund. We again held a council, and it was +unanimously decided that we should be beaten if we could not cut +along the upper edge of the schrund, and, when nearly beneath the +summit, work up to it. So Croz took off his coat and went to +work;—on ice,—not that black ice so often mentioned and so seldom +seen, but on ice as hard as ice could be. Weary work for the +guides. Croz cut for more than half-an-hour, and we did not seem +to have advanced at all. Some one behind, seeing how great the +labour was, and how slow the progress, suggested that after all we +might do better on the arête. Croz’s blood was up, and indignant +at this slight on his powers, he ceased working, turned in his steps, +and rushed towards me with a haste that made me shudder: <q>By +all means let us go there, the sooner the better.</q> No slight was +intended, and he resumed his work, after a time being relieved by +Almer. Half-past ten came; an hour had passed; they were still +cutting. Dreary work for us, for no capering about could be done +here; hand as well as foot holes were necessary; the fingers and +toes got very cold; the ice, as it boomed in bounding down the +bergschrund, was very suggestive; conversation was very restricted, +separated as we were by our tether of 20 feet apiece. Another +hour passed. We were now almost immediately below the summit, +and we stopped to look up. We were nearly as far off it (vertically) +as we had been more than three hours before. The day seemed +going against us. The only rocks near at hand were scattered; +no bigger than tea-cups, and most of these, we found afterwards, +were glazed with ice. Time forbade cutting right up to the +<pb n='158'/><anchor id='Pg158'/>summit, even had it been possible, which it was not. We decided +to go up to the ridge again by means of the rocks; but had we not +had a certain confidence in each other, it unquestionably would not +have been done; for this, it must be understood, was a situation +where not only <hi rend='italic'>might</hi> a slip have been fatal to every one, but it +would have been so beyond doubt: nothing, moreover, was easier +than to make one. It was a place where all had to work in unison, +where there must be no slackening of the rope, and no unnecessary +tension. For another hour we were in this trying situation, and +at 12.30 we gained the arête again at a much higher point (<hi rend='antiqua'>B</hi>), +close to the summit. Our men were, I am afraid, well-nigh worn +out. Cutting up a couloir 1000 feet high was not the right sort +of preparation for work of this kind. Be it so or not, we were all +glad to rest for a short time, for we had not sat down a minute +since leaving the col six hours before. Almer, however, was restless, +knowing that midday was past, and that much remained to +be accomplished, and untied himself, and commenced working +towards the summit. Connecting the teeth of rock were beds of +snow, and Almer, only a few feet from me, was crossing the top of +one of these, when suddenly, without a moment’s warning, it broke +away under him, and plunged down on to the glacier. As he +staggered for a second, one foot in the act of stepping, and the +other on the falling mass, I thought him lost; but he happily fell +on to the right side and stopped himself. Had he taken the step +with his right instead of the left foot, he would, in all probability, +have fallen several hundred feet without touching anything, and +would not have been arrested before reaching the glacier, a vertical +distance of at least 3000 feet. +</p> + +<p> +Small, ridiculously small, as the distance was to the summit, we +were occupied nearly another hour before it was gained. Almer +was a few feet in front, and he, with characteristic modesty, hesitated +to step on the highest point, and drew back to allow us to +pass. A cry was raised for Croz, who had done the chief part of +the work, but he declined the honour, and we marched on to the +<pb n='159'/><anchor id='Pg159'/>top simultaneously; that is to say, clustered round it, a yard or +two below, for it was much too small to get upon. +</p> + +<p> +According to my custom, I bagged a piece from off the highest +rock (chlorite slate), and I found afterwards that it had a striking +similarity to the final peak of the Ecrins. I have noticed the same +thing on other occasions,<note place="foot">The most striking example which has come under my notice is referred to in +<ref target="Pg316">Chapter XIX</ref>.</note> +and it is worthy of remark +that not only do fragments +of such rock as limestone +often present the characteristic +forms of the cliffs from +which they have been broken, +but that morsels of mica slate +will represent, in a wonderful +manner, the identical +shape of the peaks of which +they have formed part. Why +should it not be so if the +mountain’s mass is more or +less homogeneous? The same +causes which produce the small forms fashion the large ones; the +same influences are at work; the same frost and rain give shape +to the mass as well as to its parts. +</p><anchor id="fig52"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: FRAGMENT FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE POINTE + DES ECRINS.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus196.png" rend="w60"><head rend="ill">FRAGMENT FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE POINTE + DES ECRINS.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: Fragment from the summit of the Pointe des Ecrins</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +Did space permit me, I could give a very poor idea of the view, +but it will be readily imagined that a panorama extending over as +much ground as the whole of England is one worth taking some +trouble to see, and one which is not often to be seen even in the +Alps. No clouds obscured it, and a list of the summits that we saw +would include nearly all the highest peaks of the chain. I saw the +Pelvoux now—as I had seen the Ecrins from it three years before—across +the basin of the Glacier Noir. It is a splendid mountain, +although in height it is equalled, if not surpassed, by its neighbour +the Aléfroide. +</p> + +<pb n='160'/><anchor id='Pg160'/> + +<p> +We could stay on the summit only a short time, and at a quarter +to two prepared for the descent. Now, as we looked down, and +thought of what we had passed over in coming up, we one and all +hesitated about returning the same way. Moore said, no. Walker +said the same, and I too; the guides were both of the same mind: +this, be it remarked, although we had considered that there was no +chance whatever of getting up any other way. But those <q>last +rocks</q> were not to be forgotten. Had they only protruded to a +moderate extent, or had they been merely glazed, we should doubtless +still have tried: but they were not reasonable rocks,—they +would neither allow us to hold, nor would do it themselves. So +we turned to the western arête, trusting to luck that we should +find a way down to the schrund, and some means of getting over it +afterwards. Our faces were a tolerable index to our thoughts, and +apparently the thoughts of the party were not happy ones. Had +any one then said to me, <q>You are a great fool for coming here,</q> I +should have answered with humility, <q>It is too true.</q> And had +my monitor gone on to say, <q>Swear you will never ascend another +mountain if you get down safely,</q> I am inclined to think I should +have taken the oath. In fact, the game here was not worth the +risk. The guides felt it as well as ourselves, and as Almer led off, +he remarked, with more piety than logic, <q>The good God has +brought us up, and he will take us down in safety,</q> which showed +pretty well what <hi rend='italic'>he</hi> was thinking about. +</p> + +<p> +The ridge down which we now endeavoured to make our way +was not inferior in difficulty to the other. But were serrated to +an extent that made it impossible to keep strictly to them, and +obliged us to descend occasionally for some distance on the northern +face and then mount again. Both were so rotten that the most +experienced of our party, as well as the least, continually upset +blocks large and small. Both arêtes were so narrow, so thin, that +it was often a matter for speculation on which side an unstable +block would fall. +</p> + +<p> +At one point it seemed that we should be obliged to return to +<pb n='161'/><anchor id='Pg161'/>the summit and try the other way down. We were on the very +edge of the arête. On one side was the enormous precipice facing +the Pelvoux, which is not far from perpendicular; on the other a +slope exceeding 50°. A deep notch brought us to an abrupt halt. +Almer, who was leading, advanced cautiously to the edge on hands +and knees, and peered over; his care was by no means unnecessary, +for the rocks had broken away from under us unexpectedly several +times. In this position he gazed down for some moments, and +then, without a word, turned his head and looked at us. His face +<hi rend='italic'>may</hi> have expressed apprehension or alarm, but it certainly did not +show hope or joy. We learned that there was no means of getting +down, and that we must, if we wanted to pass the notch, jump +across on to an unstable block on the other side. It was decided +that it should be done, and Almer, with a larger extent of rope +than usual, jumped. The rock swayed as he came down upon it, +but he clutched a large mass with both arms and brought himself +to anchor. That which was both difficult and dangerous for the +first man was easy enough for the others, and we got across with +less trouble than I expected; stimulated by Croz’s perfectly just +observation, that if we couldn’t get across there we were not +likely to get down the other way. +</p> + +<p> +We had now arrived at <hi rend='antiqua'>C</hi> and could no longer continue on the +arête, so we commenced descending the face again. Before long +we were close to the schrund, but unable to see what it was like +at this part, as the upper edge bent over. Two hours had already +passed since leaving the summit, and it began to be highly probable +that we should have to spend a night on the Glacier Blanc. Almer, +who yet led, cut steps right down to the edge, but still he could +not see below; therefore, warning us to hold tight, he made his +whole body rigid, and (standing in the large step which he had cut +for the purpose), had the upper part of his person lowered out until +he saw what he wanted. He shouted that our work was finished, +made me come close to the edge and untie myself, advanced the +others until he had rope enough, and then with a loud <hi rend='italic'>jödel</hi> jumped +<pb n='162'/><anchor id='Pg162'/>down on to soft snow. Partly by skill and partly by luck he had +hit the crevasse at its easiest point, and we had only to make a +downward jump of eight or ten feet. +</p> + +<p> +We had been more than eight hours and a half accomplishing +the ascent of the final peak, which, according to an observation by +Mr. Bonney in 1862, is only 525 feet high.<note place="foot">See vol. i., p. 73 of <hi rend='italic'>Alpine Journal</hi>. We considered the height assigned to the +final peak by Mr. Bonney was too small, and thought it should have been 200 feet +more.</note> During this period +we had not stopped for more than half-an-hour, and our nerves and +muscles had been kept at the highest degree of tension the whole +time. It may be imagined that we accepted the ordinary conditions +of glacier travelling as an agreeable relief, and that that which at +another time might have seemed formidable we treated as the veriest +bagatelle. Late in the day as it was, and soft as was the snow, we +put on such pace that we reached the Col des Ecrins in less than +forty minutes. We lost no time in arranging our baggage, for we +had still to traverse a long glacier, and to get clear of two +ice-falls before it was dark; so, at 5.35 we resumed the march, adjourning +eating and drinking, and put on a spurt which took us clear of the +Glacier Blanc by 7.45 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi><note place="foot">The Glacier Blanc is in the direction indicated by the arrow below the letter <hi rend='antiqua'>E</hi> +on the <ref target="fig51">outline on p. 156</ref>.</note> We got off the moraine of the Glacier +Noir at 8.45, just as the last remnant of daylight vanished. Croz +and myself were a trifle in advance of the others, and fortunately +so for us; for as they were about to commence the descent of the +snout of the glacier, the whole of the moraine that rested on its +face peeled off, and came down with a tremendous roar. +</p> + +<p> +We had now the pleasure of walking over a plain that is +known by the name of the Pré de Madame Carle, covered with +pebbles of all sizes, and intersected by numerous small streams +or torrents. Every hole looked like a stone, every stone like a +hole, and we tumbled about from side to side until our limbs and +our tempers became thoroughly jaded. My companions, being +both short-sighted, found the travelling especially disagreeable; so +<pb n='163'/><anchor id='Pg163'/>there was little wonder that when we came upon a huge mass of +rock as big as a house, which had fallen from the flanks of Pelvoux, +a regular cube that offered no shelter whatever, Moore cried out in +ecstasy, <q>Oh, how delightful! the very thing I have been longing +for. Let us have a perfectly extemporaneous bivouac.</q> This, +it should be said, was when the night threatened thunder and +lightning, rain, and all other delights. +</p> + +<p> +The pleasures of a perfectly extemporaneous bivouac under +these circumstances not being novelties to Croz and myself, we +thought we would try for the miseries of a roof; but Walker and +Almer, with their usual good nature, declared it was the very +thing that they, too, were longing for; so the trio resolved to stop. +We generously left them all the provisions (a dozen cubic inches or +thereabouts of bacon fat, and half a candle), and pushed on for the +chalets of Aléfroide, or at least we thought we did, but could not be +certain. In the course of half-an-hour we got uncommonly close +to the main torrent, and Croz all at once disappeared. I stepped +cautiously forward to peer down into the place where I thought he +was, and quietly tumbled head over heels into a big rhododendron +bush. Extricating myself with some trouble, I fell backwards +over some rocks, and got wedged in a cleft so close to the torrent +that it splashed all over me. +</p> + +<p> +The colloquy which then ensued amid the thundering of the +stream was as follows:— +</p> + +<p> +<q>Hullo, Croz!</q> <q>Eh, Monsieur.</q> <q>Where <hi rend='italic'>are</hi> you?</q> <q>Here, +Monsieur.</q> <q>Where <hi rend='italic'>is</hi> here?</q> <q>I don’t know; where are <hi rend='italic'>you</hi>?</q> +<q>Here, Croz;</q> and so on. +</p> + +<p> +The fact was, from the intense darkness, and the noise of the +torrent, we had no idea of each other’s situation. In the course +of ten minutes, however, we joined together again, agreed we had +had quite enough of that kind of thing, and adjourned to a most +eligible rock at 10.15. +</p> + +<p> +How well I remember the night at that rock, and the jolly way +in which Croz came out! We were both very wet about the legs, +<pb n='164'/><anchor id='Pg164'/>and both uncommonly hungry, but the time passed pleasantly +enough round our fire of juniper, and until long past midnight we +sat up recounting, over our pipes, wonderful stories of the most +incredible description, in which I must admit, my companion beat +me hollow. Then throwing ourselves on our beds of rhododendron, +we slept an untroubled sleep, and rose on a bright Sunday morning +as fresh as might be, intending to enjoy a day’s rest and luxury +with our friends at La Ville de Val Louise. +</p><anchor id="fig53"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: A NIGHT WITH CROZ.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus201.jpg" rend="w80"><head rend="ill">A NIGHT WITH CROZ.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: A night with Croz</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +I have failed to give the impression I wish if it has not been +made evident that the ascent of the Pointe des Ecrins was not an +ordinary piece of work. There is an increasing disposition now-a-days +amongst those who write on the Alps, to underrate the difficulties +and dangers which are met with, and this disposition is, I +think, not less mischievous than the old-fashioned style of making +everything terrible. Difficult as we found the peak, I believe we +<pb n='165'/><anchor id='Pg165'/>took it at the best, perhaps the only possible, time of the year. +The great slope on which we spent so much time was, from being +denuded by the avalanche of which I have spoken, deprived of its +greatest danger. Had it had the snow still resting upon it, and +had we persevered with the expedition, we should almost without +doubt have ended with calamity instead of success. The ice of that +slope is always below, its angle is severe, and the rocks do not +project sufficiently to afford the support that snow requires, to be +stable, when at a great angle. So far am I from desiring to tempt +any one to repeat the expedition, that I put it on record as my +belief, however sad and however miserable a man may have been, +if he is found on the summit of the Pointe des Ecrins after a fall +of new snow, he is likely to experience misery far deeper than +anything with which he has hitherto been acquainted.<note place="foot"><p>The ascent of the Pointe des Ecrins has been made several times since 1864. +The second ascent was made by a French gentleman, named Vincent, with the +Chamounix guides Jean Carrier and Alexandre Tournier. They followed our route, +but reversed it; that is to say, ascended by the western and descended by the +eastern arête. +</p> + +<p> +The best course to adopt in future attacks on the mountain, would be to bring a +ladder, or some other means of passing the bergschrund, in its centre, immediately +under the summit. One could then proceed directly upwards, and so avoid the labour +and difficulties which are inevitable upon any ascent by way of the arêtes.</p></note> +</p> + +</div><div type="chapter" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='166'/><anchor id='Pg166'/> +<index index="toc" level1="Chapter IX. From Val Louise to La Bérarde by the Col de Pilatte"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Chapter IX. From Val Louise to La Berarde ..."/> +<head>CHAPTER IX.</head> + +<head type="sub">FROM VAL LOUISE TO LA BÉRARDE BY THE COL DE PILATTE.<note place="foot">For route, see <ref target="fig49">Map in Chap. VIII</ref>.</note></head> + +<epigraph><lg> +<l> +<q>How pleasant it is for him who is saved to remember his danger.</q> +</l> +<l rend="text-align: right"><hi rend='smallcaps'>Euripides.</hi></l> +</lg></epigraph> + +<p> +From Ailefroide to Claux, but for the path, travel would be scarcely +more easy than over the Pré de Madame Carle.<note place="foot">For route, see <ref target="fig49">Map in Chap. VIII</ref>.</note> The valley is +strewn with immense masses of gneiss, from the size of a large +house downwards, and it is only occasionally that rock <hi rend='italic'>in situ</hi> is +seen, so covered up is it by the débris, which seems to have been +derived almost entirely from the neighbouring cliffs. +</p> + +<p> +It was Sunday, a <q>day most calm and bright.</q> Golden sunlight +had dispersed the clouds, and was glorifying the heights, +and we forgot hunger through the brilliancy of the morning and +beauty of the mountains. +</p> + +<p> +We meant the 26th to be a day of rest, but it was little that we +found in the <hi rend='italic'>cabaret</hi> of Claude Giraud, and we fled before the babel +of sound which rose in intensity as men descended to a depth which +is unattainable by the beasts of the field, and found at the chalets +of Entraigues<note place="foot"><p> +The path from Ville de Val Louise to Entraigues is good, and well shaded by +luxuriant foliage. The valley (d’Entraigues) is narrow; bordered by fine cliffs; and +closed at its western end by a noble block of mountains, which looks much higher +than it is. The highest point (the Pic de Bonvoisin) is 11,500 feet. Potatoes, peas, +and other vegetables, are grown at Entraigues (5284 feet), although the situation of +the chalets is bleak, and cut off from the sun. +</p> + +<p> +The Combe (or Vallon) de la Selle joins the main valley at Entraigues, and one +can pass from the former by the little-known Col de Loup (immediately to the south +of the Pic de Bonvoisin) into the Val Godemar. Two other passes, both of considerable +height, lead from the head of the Vallon de la Selle into the valleys of Champoléon +and Argentière. +</p></note> the peace that had been denied to us at Val Louise. +</p> + +<pb n='167'/><anchor id='Pg167'/> + +<p> +Again we were received with the most cordial hospitality. +Everything that was eatable or drinkable was brought out and +pressed upon us; every little curiosity was exhibited; every information +that could be afforded was given; and when we retired +to our clean straw, we again congratulated each other that we had +escaped from the foul den which is where a good inn should be, +and had cast in our lot with those who dwell in chalets. Very +luxurious that straw seemed after two nights upon quartz pebbles +and glacier mud, and I felt quite aggrieved (expecting it was the +summons for departure) when, about midnight, the heavy wooden +door creaked on its hinges, and a man hem’d and ha’d to attract +attention; but when it whispered, <q>Monsieur Edvard,</q> I perceived +my mistake,—it was our Pelvoux companion, Monsieur +Reynaud, the excellent <hi rend='italic'>agent-voyer</hi> of La Bessée. +</p> + +<p> +Monsieur Reynaud had been invited to accompany us on the +excursion that is described in this chapter, but had arrived at Val +Louise after we had left, and had energetically pursued us during +the night. Our idea was that a pass might be made over the +high ridge called (on the French map) Crête de BÅ“ufs Rouges,<note place="foot">This, like many other names given to mountains and glaciers on sheet 189, is +not a local name, or, at least, is not one that is in common use.</note> +near to the peak named Les Bans, and that it might be the shortest +route in time (as it certainly would be in distance) from Val +Louise, across the Central Dauphiné Alps. We had seen the +northern (or Pilatte) side from the Brèche de la Meije, and it +seemed to be practicable at one place near the above-mentioned +mountain. More than that could not be told at a distance of +eleven miles. We intended to try to hit a point on the ridge +immediately above the part where it seemed to be easiest. +</p> + +<p> +We left Entraigues at 3.30 on the morning of June 27, and +proceeded, over very gently-inclined ground, towards the foot of +<pb n='168'/><anchor id='Pg168'/>the Pic de Bonvoisin (following in fact the route of the Col de +Sellar, which leads from the Val Louise into the Val Godemar);<note place="foot">The height of the Col de Sellar (or de Celar) is 10,073 feet (Forbes). I was +told by peasants at Entraigues that sheep and goats can be easily taken across it.</note> +and at 5 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi>, finding that there was no chance of obtaining a view +from the bottom of the valley of the ridge over which our route +was to be taken, sent Almer up the lower slopes of the Bonvoisin +to reconnoitre. He telegraphed that we might proceed; and at +5.45 we quitted the snow-beds at the bottom of the valley for +the slopes which rose towards the north. +</p> + +<p> +The course was N.N.W., and was prodigiously steep. <hi rend='italic'>In less than +two miles difference of latitude we rose one mile of absolute height.</hi> +But the route was so far from being an exceptionally difficult one, +that at 10.45 we stood on the summit of the pass, having made an +ascent of more than 5000 feet in five hours, inclusive of halts. +</p> + +<p> +Upon sheet 189 of the French map a glacier is laid down on +the south of the Crête des BÅ“ufs Rouges, extending along the +entire length of the ridge, at its foot, from east to west. In 1864 +this glacier did not exist as <hi rend='italic'>one</hi> glacier, but in the place where it +should have been there were several small ones, all of which were, +I believe, separated from each other.<note place="foot">See <ref target="fig49">map on p. 146</ref>. It is perhaps just possible, although improbable, that these +little glaciers were united together at the time that the survey was made. Since +then the glaciers of Dauphiné (as throughout the Alps generally) have shrunk very +considerably. A notable diminution took place in their size in 1869, which was +attributed by the natives to the very heavy rains of that year.</note> +</p> + +<p> +We commenced the ascent from the Val d’Entraigues, to the +west of the most western of these small glaciers, and quitted the +valley by the first great gap in its cliffs after that glacier was +passed. We did not take to the ice until it afforded an easier route +than the rocks; then (8.30) Croz went to the front, and led with +admirable skill through a maze of crevasses up to the foot of a +great snow <hi rend='italic'>couloir</hi>, that rose from the head of the glacier to the +summit of the ridge over which we had to pass. +</p> + +<p> +We had settled beforehand in London, without knowing +any<pb n='169'/><anchor id='Pg169'/>thing whatever about the +place, that such a couloir +as this should be in this +angle; but when we got +into the Val d’Entraigues, +and found that it was not +possible to see into the +corner, our faith in its +existence became less and +less, until the telegraphing +of Almer, who was +sent up the opposite +slopes to search for it, +assured us that we were +true prophets. +</p><anchor id="fig54"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: A SNOW COULOIR.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus206.png" rend="w100"><head rend="ill">A SNOW COULOIR.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: A snow couloir</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +Snow <hi rend='italic'>couloirs</hi> are nothing +more or less than +gullies partly filled by +snow. They are most useful +institutions, and may +be considered as natural +highways placed, by a +kind Providence, in convenient +situations for getting +over places which +would otherwise be +inac<pb n='170'/><anchor id='Pg170'/>cessible. They are a joy to the mountaineer, and, from afar, +assure him of a path when all beside is uncertain; but they are +grief to novices, who, when upon steep snow, are usually seized +with two notions—first, that the snow will slip, and secondly, +that those who are upon it must slip too. +</p> + +<p> +Nothing, perhaps, could look much more unpromising to those +who do not know the virtues of couloirs than such a place as the +<ref target="fig54">engraving</ref> represents,<note place="foot">This drawing was made to illustrate the remarks which follow. It does not represent +any particular couloir, though it would serve, tolerably well, as a portrait of +the one which we ascended when crossing the Col de Pilatte.</note> and if persons inexperienced in mountain +craft had occasion to cross a ridge or to climb rocks, in which there +were such couloirs, they would instinctively avoid them. But +practised mountaineers would naturally look to them for a path, +and would follow them almost as a matter of course, unless they +turned out to be filled with ice, or too much swept by falling +stones, or the rock at the sides proved to be of such an exceptional +character as to afford an easier path than the snow. +</p> + +<p> +Couloirs look prodigiously steep when seen from the front, and, +so viewed, it is impossible to be certain of their inclination within +many degrees. Snow, however, does actually lie at steeper angles +in couloirs than in any other situations;—45° to 50° degrees is +not an uncommon inclination. Even at such angles, two men +with proper axes can mount on snow at the rate of 700 to 800 feet +per hour. The same amount can only be accomplished in the +same time on steep rocks when they are of the very easiest character, +and four or five hours may be readily spent upon an equal +height of difficult rocks. Snow couloirs are therefore to be commended +because they economise time. +</p> + +<p> +Of course, in all gullies, one is liable to be encountered by falling +stones. Most of those which fall from the rocks of a couloir, +sooner or later spin down the snow which fills the trough; and, as +their course and pace are more clearly apparent when falling over +snow than when jumping from ledge to ledge, persons with lively +<pb n='171'/><anchor id='Pg171'/>imaginations are readily impressed by them. The grooves which +are usually seen wandering down the length of snow couloirs are +deepened (and, perhaps, occasionally originated) by falling stones, +and they are sometimes pointed out by cautious men as reasons +why couloirs should not be followed. I think they are very frequently +only gutters, caused by water trickling off the rocks. +Whether this is so or not, one should always consider the possibility +of being struck by falling stones, and, in order to lessen the +risk as far as possible, should mount upon the sides of the snow, +and not up its centre. Stones that come off the rocks will then +generally fly over one’s head, or bound down the middle of the +trough at a safe distance. +</p> + +<p> +At 9.30 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> we commenced the ascent of the couloir leading +from the nameless glacier to a point in the ridge, just to the east +of Mont Bans.<note place="foot">The upper part of the southern side of the Col de Pilatte, and the small glaciers +spoken of on <ref target="Pg168">p. 168</ref>, can be seen from the high road leading from Briançon to Mont +Dauphin, between the 12th and 13th kilomètre stones (from Briançon).</note> So far the route had been nothing more than a +steep grind in an angle where little could be seen, but now views +opened out in several directions, and the way began to be interesting. +It was more so, perhaps, to us than to our companion M. +Reynaud, who had no rest in the last night. He was, moreover, +heavily laden. Science was to be regarded—his pockets were +stuffed with books; heights and angles were to be observed—his +knapsack was filled with instruments; hunger was to be guarded +against—his shoulders were ornamented with a huge nimbus of +bread, and a leg of mutton swung behind from his knapsack, looking +like an overgrown tail. Being a good-hearted fellow, he had +brought this food, thinking we might be in need of it. As it happened, +we were well provided for, and having our own packs to +carry, could not relieve him of his superfluous burdens, which, +naturally, he did not like to throw away. As the angles steepened, +the strain on his strength became more and more apparent. At +last he began to groan. At first a most gentle and mellow groan; +<pb n='172'/><anchor id='Pg172'/>but as we rose so did his groans, till at last the cliffs were groaning +in echo, and we were moved to laughter. +</p> + +<p> +Croz cut the way with unflagging energy throughout the whole +of the ascent, and at 10.45 we stood on the summit of our pass, +intending to refresh ourselves with a good halt. Unhappily, at that +moment a mist, which had been playing about the ridge, swooped +down and blotted out the whole of the view on the northern side. +Croz was the only one who caught a glimpse of the descent, and +it was deemed advisable to push on immediately, while its recollection +was fresh in his memory. We are consequently unable +to tell anything about the summit of the pass, except that it +lies immediately to the east of Mont Bans, and is elevated about +11,300 feet above the level of the sea. It is the highest pass in +Dauphiné. We called it the Col de Pilatte. +</p> + +<p> +We commenced to descend towards the Glacier de Pilatte by a +slope of smooth ice, the face of which, according to the measurement +of Mr. Moore, had an inclination of 54°! Croz still led, and +the others followed at intervals of about 15 feet, all being tied +together, and Almer occupying the responsible position of last +man. The two guides were therefore about 70 feet apart. They +were quite invisible to each other from the mist, and looked spectral +even to us. But the <hi rend='italic'>strong</hi> man could be heard by all hewing out +the steps below, while every now and then the voice of the <hi rend='italic'>steady</hi> +man pierced the cloud,—<q>Slip not, dear sirs; place well your feet: +stir not until you are certain.</q> +</p> + +<p> +For three quarters of an hour we progressed in this fashion. +The axe of Croz all at once stopped. <q>What is the matter, Croz?</q> +<q>Bergschrund, gentlemen.</q> <q>Can we get over?</q> <q>Upon my +word, I don’t know; I think we must jump.</q> The clouds rolled +away right and left as he spoke. The effect was dramatic! It was +a <hi rend='italic'>coup de théâtre</hi>, preparatory to the <q>great sensation leap</q> which +was about to be executed by the entire company. +</p> + +<p> +Some unseen cause, some cliff or obstruction in the rocks +underneath, had caused our wall of ice to split into two portions, +<pb n='173'/><anchor id='Pg173'/>and the huge fissure which had thus been formed extended, on each +hand, as far as could be seen. We, on the slope above, were separated +from the slope below by a mighty crevasse. No running up +and down to look for an easier place to cross could be done on an +ice-slope of 54°; the chasm had to be passed then and there. +</p> + +<p> +A downward jump of 15 or 16 feet, and a forward leap of 7 or 8 +feet had to be made at the same time. That is not much, you will +say. It was not much; it was not the quantity, but it was the +quality of the jump which gave to it its particular flavour. You +had to hit a narrow ridge of ice. If that was passed, it seemed as +if you might roll down for ever and ever. If it was not attained, +you dropped into the crevasse below; which, although partly choked +by icicles and snow that had fallen from above, was still gaping in +many places, ready to receive an erratic body. +</p> + +<p> +Croz untied Walker in order to get rope enough, and warning us +to hold fast, sprang over the chasm. He alighted cleverly on his +feet; untied himself and sent up the rope to Walker, who followed +his example. It was then my turn, and I advanced to the edge of +the ice. The second which followed was what is called a supreme +moment. That is to say, I felt supremely ridiculous. The world +seemed to revolve at a frightful pace, and my stomach to fly away. +The next moment I found myself sprawling in the snow, and then, +of course, vowed that <hi rend='italic'>it was nothing</hi>, and prepared to encourage +my friend Reynaud. +</p> + +<p> +He came to the edge and made declarations. I do not believe +that he was a whit more reluctant to pass the place than we others, +but he was infinitely more demonstrative,—in a word, he was +French. He wrung his hands, <q>Oh! what a <hi rend='italic'>diable</hi> of a place!</q> +<q>It is nothing, Reynaud,</q> I said, <q>it is <hi rend='italic'>nothing</hi>.</q> <q>Jump,</q> cried +the others, <q>jump.</q> But he turned round, as far as one can do +such a thing in an ice-step, and covered his face with his hands, +ejaculating, <q>Upon my word, it is not possible. No! no!! no!!! +it is not possible.</q> +</p> + +<p> +How he came over I do not know. We saw a toe—it seemed +<pb n='174'/><anchor id='Pg174'/>to belong to Moore; we saw Reynaud a flying body, coming down +as if taking a header into water; with arms and legs all abroad, his +leg of mutton flying in the air, his bâton escaped from his grasp; +and then we heard a thud as if a bundle of carpets had been +pitched out of a window. When set upon his feet he was a sorry +spectacle; his head was a great snowball; brandy was trickling +out of one side of the knapsack, chartreuse out of the other—we +bemoaned its loss, but we roared with laughter. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +This chapter has already passed the limits within which it +should have been confined, but I cannot close it without paying +tribute to the ability with which Croz led us, through a dense +mist, down the remainder of the Glacier de Pilatte. As an exhibition +of strength and skill, it has probably never been surpassed +in the Alps or elsewhere. On this almost unknown and very steep +glacier, he was perfectly at home, even in the mists. Never able +to see fifty feet ahead, he still went on with the utmost certainty, +and without having to retrace a single step; and displayed from +first to last consummate knowledge of the materials with which he +was dealing. Now he cut steps down one side of a <hi rend='italic'>sérac</hi>, went with +a dash at the other side, and hauled us up after him; then cut away +along a ridge until a point was gained from which we could jump +on to another ridge; then, doubling back, found a snow-bridge, +across which he crawled on hands and knees, towed us across by +the legs, ridiculing our apprehensions, mimicking our awkwardness, +declining all help, bidding us only to follow him. +</p> + +<p> +About 1 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> we emerged from the mist and found ourselves +just arrived upon the level portion of the glacier, having, as Reynaud +properly remarked, come down as quickly as if there had not +been any mist at all. Then we attacked the leg of mutton which +my friend had so thoughtfully brought with him, and afterwards +raced down, with renewed energy, to La Bérarde. +</p> + +<p> +Reynaud and I walked together to St. Christophe, where we +parted. Since then we have talked over the doings of this +<pb n='175'/><anchor id='Pg175'/>momentous day; and I know that he would not, for a good deal, +have missed the passage of the Col de Pilatte, although we failed +to make it an easier or a shorter route than the Col du Selé. I +rejoined Moore and Walker, the same evening, at Venos, and on +the next day went with them over the Lautaret road to the hospice +on its summit, where we slept. +</p> + +<p> +So our little campaign in Dauphiné came to an end. It was +remarkable for the absence of failures, and for the ease and precision +with which all our plans were carried out. This was due +very much to the spirit of my companions; but it was also owing +to the fine weather which we were fortunate enough to enjoy, and +to our making a very early start every morning. By beginning +our work at or before the break of day, on the longest days in the +year, we were not only able to avoid hurrying when deliberation +was desirable, but could afford to spend several hours in delightful +ease whenever the fancy seized us. +</p> + +<p> +I cannot too strongly recommend to tourists in search of +amusement to avoid the inns of Dauphiné. Sleep in the chalets. +Get what food you can from the inns, but do not as a rule attempt +to pass nights in them.<note place="foot">Since the above paragraphs were first printed, there has been some improvement +in Dauphiné in respect to the inns; and there is now at La Ville de Val Louise a +very decent little auberge called the Hôtel Pelvoux, kept by M. Gauthier.</note> <hi rend='italic'>Sleep</hi> in them you cannot. M. Joanne +says that the inventor of the insecticide powder was a native of +Dauphiné. I can well believe it. He must have often felt the +necessity of such an invention in his infancy and childhood. +</p> + +<p> +On June 29 I crossed the Col du Galibier to St. Michel; +on the 30th, the Col des Encombres to Moutiers; on July 1, the +Col du Bonhomme to Contamines; and on the 2d, by the Pavilion +de Bellevue to Chamounix, where I joined Mr. Adams-Reilly +to take part in some expeditions which had been planned long +before. +</p> +</div><div type="chapter" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='176'/><anchor id='Pg176'/> +<index index="toc" level1="Chapter X. The first passage of the Col de Triolet ..."/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Chapter X. The first passage of the Col de Triolet ..."/> +<head>CHAPTER X.</head> + +<head type="sub">THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DE TRIOLET, AND FIRST ASCENTS +OF MONT DOLENT, AIGUILLE DE TRÉLATÊTE, AND AIGUILLE +D’ARGENTIÈRE.</head> + +<epigraph><p> +<q>Nothing binds men so closely together as agreement in plans and desires.</q><lb/><hi rend='smallcaps'>Cicero.</hi> +</p> +</epigraph> + +<p> +A few years ago not many persons knew from personal knowledge +how extremely inaccurately the chain of Mont Blanc was +delineated. In the earlier part of the century thousands had made +the tour of the chain, and before the year 1860 at least <hi rend='italic'>one</hi> thousand +individuals had stood upon its highest summit; but out of +all this number there was not one capable, willing, or able, to map +the mountain which, until recently, was regarded the highest in +Europe. +</p> + +<p> +Many persons knew that great blunders had been perpetrated, +and it was notorious that even Mont Blanc itself was represented +in a ludicrously incorrect manner on all sides excepting the north; +but there was not, perhaps, a single individual who knew, at the +time to which I refer, that errors of no less than 1000 feet had +been committed in the determination of heights at each end of the +chain; that some glaciers were represented of double their real +dimensions; and that ridges and mountains were laid down which +actually had no existence. +</p> + +<p> +One portion alone of the entire chain had been surveyed at +the time of which I speak with anything like accuracy. It was +not done (as one would have expected) by a Government, but +by a private individual,—by the British De Saussure,—the late +J. D. Forbes. In the year 1842, he <q>made a special survey of the +<pb n='177'/><anchor id='Pg177'/>Mer de Glace of Chamounix and its tributaries, which, in some of +the following years, he extended by further observations, so as to +include the Glacier des Bossons.</q> The map produced from this +survey was worthy of its author; and subsequent explorers of +the region he investigated have been able to detect only trivial +inaccuracies in his work. +</p> + +<p> +In 1861, Sheet xxii. of Dufour’s Map of Switzerland appeared. +It included the section of the chain of Mont Blanc that belonged +to Switzerland, and this portion of the sheet was executed with the +admirable fidelity and thoroughness which characterise the whole +of Dufour’s unique map. The remainder of the chain (amounting +to about four-fifths of the whole) was laid down after the work +of previous topographers, and its wretchedness was made more +apparent by contrast with the finished work of the Swiss surveyors. +</p> + +<p> +In 1863, Mr. Adams-Reilly, who had been travelling in the +Alps during several years, resolved to attempt a survey of the +unsurveyed portions of the chain of Mont Blanc. He provided himself +with a good theodolite, and starting from a base-line measured +by Forbes in the Valley of Chamounix, determined the positions of +no less than 200 points. The accuracy of his work may be judged +from the fact that, after having turned many corners and carried +his observations over a distance of fifty miles, his Col Ferret <q>fell +within 200 yards of the position assigned to it by General Dufour!</q> +</p> + +<p> +In the winter of 1863 and the spring of 1864, Mr. Reilly constructed +an entirely original map from his newly-acquired data. +The spaces between his trigonometrically determined points he +filled in after photographs, and a series of panoramic sketches which +he made from his different stations. The map so produced was +an immense advance upon those already in existence, and it was +the first which exhibited the great peaks in their proper positions. +</p> + +<p> +This extraordinary piece of work revealed Mr. Reilly to me as +a man of wonderful determination and perseverance. With very +small hope that my proposal would be accepted, I invited him +to take part in renewed attacks on the Matterhorn. He entered +<pb n='178'/><anchor id='Pg178'/>heartily into my plans, and met me with a counter-proposition, +namely, that I should accompany him on some expeditions which +he had projected in the chain of Mont Blanc. The unwritten contract +took this form:—I will help you to carry out your desires, and +you shall assist me to carry out mine. I eagerly closed with an +arrangement in which all the advantages were upon my side. +</p> + +<p> +At the time that Mr. Reilly was carrying on his survey, Captain +Mieulet was executing another in continuation of the great map of +France; for about one-half of the chain of Mont Blanc (including +the whole of the valley of Chamounix) had recently become French +once more. Captain Mieulet was directed to survey up to his +frontier only, and the sheet which was destined to include his +work was to be engraved, of course, upon the scale of the rest of +the map, viz., 1/80000 of nature. But upon representations being +made at head-quarters that it would be of great advantage to extend +the survey as far as <anchor id="corr178"/><corr sic="Cormayeur">Courmayeur</corr>, Captain Mieulet was directed +to continue his observations into the south (or Italian) side of +the chain. A special sheet on the scale of 1/40000 was promptly +engraved from the materials he accumulated, and was published +in 1865, by order of the late Minister of War, Marshal Randon.<note place="foot">Under the title of <hi rend='italic'>Massif du Mont Blanc, extrait des minutes de la Carte de France, +leré par M. Mieulet, Capitaine d’Etat Major</hi>.</note> +This sheet was admirably executed, but it included the central +portion of the chain only, and a complete map was still wanting. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Reilly presented his MS. map to the English Alpine Club. +It was resolved that it should be published; but before it passed +into the engraver’s hands its author undertook to revise it carefully. +To this end he planned a number of expeditions to high points +which up to that time had been regarded inaccessible, and upon +some of these ascents he invited me to accompany him. Before +I pass on to these expeditions, it will be convenient to devote a +few lines to the topography of the chain of Mont Blanc. +</p> + +<p> +At the present time the chain is divided betwixt France, +Switzerland, and Italy. France has the lion’s share, Switzerland +<pb n='179'/><anchor id='Pg179'/>the most fertile portion, and Italy the steepest side. It has acquired +a reputation which is not extraordinary, but which is not wholly +merited. It has neither the beauty of the Oberland, nor the +sublimity of Dauphiné. It attracts the vulgar by the possession +of the highest summit in the Alps. If that is removed, the +elevation of the chain is in nowise remarkable. In fact, excluding +Mont Blanc itself, the mountains of which the chain is made +up are less important than those of the Oberland and the central +Pennine groups. The following table will afford a ready means +of comparison.<note place="foot">The heights (in mètres) are after Captain Mieulet.</note> +</p> +<table rend="tblcolumns: 'r lw(32m) l l'; latexcolumns: 'rp{4.5cm}ll'"> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Mètres.</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Eng. feet</hi><note place="foot">Some of these heights have no business to figure in a list of the principal peaks +of the chain, being nothing more than teeth or pinnacles in ridges, or portions of +higher mountains. Such, for example, are the Aiguilles du Géant, du Dru, and de +Bionnassay.</note></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">1.</cell> + <cell>Mont Blanc</cell> + <cell>4810 =</cell> + <cell>15,781</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">2.</cell> + <cell>Grandes Jorasses</cell> + <cell>4206 .</cell> + <cell>13,800</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">3.</cell> + <cell>Aiguille Verte</cell> + <cell>4127 .</cell> + <cell>13,540</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">4.</cell> + <cell>Aiguille de Bionnassay</cell> + <cell>4061 .</cell> + <cell>13,324</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">5.</cell> + <cell>Les Droites</cell> + <cell>4030 .</cell> + <cell>13,222</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">6.</cell> + <cell>Aiguille du Géant</cell> + <cell>4010 .</cell> + <cell>13,157</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">7.</cell> + <cell>Aiguille de Trélatête, No. 1</cell> + <cell>3932 .</cell> + <cell>12,900</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + <cell>Aiguille de Trélatête, No. 2</cell> + <cell>3904 .</cell> + <cell>12,809</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right"></cell> + <cell>Aiguille de Trélatête, No. 3</cell> + <cell>3896 .</cell> + <cell>12,782</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">8.</cell> + <cell>Aiguille d’Argentière</cell> + <cell>3901 .</cell> + <cell>12,799</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">9.</cell> + <cell>Aiguille de Triolet</cell> + <cell>3879 .</cell> + <cell>12,726</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">10.</cell> + <cell>Aiguille du Midi</cell> + <cell>3843 .</cell> + <cell>12,608</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">11.</cell> + <cell>Aiguille du Glacier</cell> + <cell>3834 .</cell> + <cell>12,579</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">12.</cell> + <cell>Mont Dolent</cell> + <cell>3830 .</cell> + <cell>12,566</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">13.</cell> + <cell>Aiguille du Chardonnet</cell> + <cell>3823 .</cell> + <cell>12,543</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">14.</cell> + <cell>Aiguille du Dru </cell> + <cell>3815 .</cell> + <cell>12,517</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">15.</cell> + <cell>Aiguille de Miage</cell> + <cell>3680 .</cell> + <cell>12,074</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">16.</cell> + <cell>Aiguille du Plan</cell> + <cell>3673 .</cell> + <cell>12,051</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">17.</cell> + <cell>Aiguille de Blaitière</cell> + <cell>3533 .</cell> + <cell>11,591</cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="text-align: right">18.</cell> + <cell>Aiguille des Charmoz</cell> + <cell>3442 .</cell> + <cell>11,293</cell> + </row> +</table> + +<p> +The frontier-line follows the main ridge. Very little of it can +be seen from the Valley of Chamounix, and from the village itself +two small strips only are visible (amounting to scarcely three miles +<pb n='180'/><anchor id='Pg180'/>in length)—viz. from the summit of Mont Blanc to the Dôme du +Goûter, and in the neighbourhood of the Col de Balme. All the +rest is concealed by outlying ridges and by mountains of secondary +importance. +</p> + +<p> +Mont Blanc itself is bounded by the two glaciers of Miage, the +glaciers de la Brenva and du Géant, the Val Véni and the Valley +of Chamounix. A long ridge runs out towards the N.N.E. from +the summit, through Mont Maudit, to the Aiguille du Midi. +Another ridge proceeds towards the N.W., through the Bosse du +Dromadaire to the Dôme du Goûter; this then divides into two, +of which one continues N.W. to the Aiguille du Goûter, and the +other (which is a part of the main ridge of the chain) towards +the W. to the Aiguille de Bionnassay. The two routes which are +commonly followed for the ascent of Mont Blanc lie between +these two principal ridges—one leading from Chamounix, <hi rend='italic'>viâ</hi> the +Grands Mulets, the other from the village of Bionnassay, <hi rend='italic'>viâ</hi> the +Aiguille and Dôme du Goûter. +</p> + +<p> +The ascent of Mont Blanc has been made from several directions +besides these, and perhaps there is no single point of the +compass from which the mountain cannot be ascended. But there +is not the least probability that any one will discover easier ways +to the summit than those already known. +</p> + +<p> +I believe it is correct to say that the Aiguille du Midi and the +Aiguille de Miage were the only two summits in the chain of +Mont Blanc which had been ascended at the beginning of 1864.<note place="foot">Besides Mont Blanc itself.</note> +The latter of these two is a perfectly insignificant point; and the +former is only a portion of one of the ridges just now mentioned, +and can hardly be regarded as a mountain separate and distinct +from Mont Blanc. The really great peaks of the chain were +considered inaccessible, and, I think, with the exception of the +Aiguille Verte, had never been assailed. +</p> + +<p> +The finest, as well as the highest peak in the chain (after +Mont Blanc itself), is the Grandes Jorasses. The next, without a +<pb n='181'/><anchor id='Pg181'/>doubt, is the Aiguille Verte. The Aiguille de Bionnassay, which +in actual height follows the Verte, should be considered as a part +of Mont Blanc; and in the same way the summit called Les +Droites is only a part of the ridge which culminates in the Verte. +The Aiguille de Trélatête is the next on the list that is entitled +to be considered a separate mountain, and is by far the most +important peak (as well as the highest) at the south-west end of +the chain. Then comes the Aiguille d’Argentière, which occupies +the same rank at the north-east end as the last-mentioned mountain +does in the south-west. The rest of the aiguilles are comparatively +insignificant; and although some of them (such as the +Mont Dolent) look well from low elevations, and seem to possess +a certain importance, they sink into their proper places directly +one arrives at a considerable altitude. +</p> + +<p> +The summit of the Aiguille Verte would have been one of the +best stations out of all these mountains for the purposes of my +friend. Its great height, and its isolated and commanding position, +make it a most admirable point for viewing the intricacies of the +chain; but he exercised a wise discretion in passing it by, and in +selecting as our first excursion the passage of the Col de Triolet.<note place="foot">Previous to this we made an attempt to ascend the Aiguille d’Argentière, and +were defeated by a violent wind when within a hundred feet of the summit.</note> +</p> + +<p> +We slept under some big rocks on the Couvercle on the night +of July 7, with the thermometer at 26·5 Faht., and at 4.30 on the +8th made a straight track to the north of the Jardin, and thence +went in zigzags, to break the ascent, over the upper slopes of the +Glacier de Talèfre towards the foot of the Aiguille de Triolet. +Croz was still my guide, Reilly was accompanied by one of the +Michel Payots of Chamounix, and Henri Charlet, of the same +place, was our porter. +</p> + +<p> +The way was over an undulating plain of glacier of moderate +inclination until the corner leading to the Col, from whence a +steep secondary glacier led down into the basin of the Talèfre. +We experienced no difficulty in making the ascent of this secondary +<pb n='182'/><anchor id='Pg182'/>glacier with such ice-men as Croz and Payot, and at 7.50 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> +arrived on the top of the so-called pass, at a height, according to +Mieulet, of 12,162 feet, and 4530 above our camp on the Couvercle. +</p> + +<p> +The descent was commenced by very steep, but firm, rocks, +and then by a branch of the Glacier de Triolet. Schrunds<note place="foot">Great crevasses. A bergschrund is a schrund, and something more.</note> were +abundant; there were no less than five extending completely across +the glacier, all of which had to be jumped. Not one was equal +in dimensions to the extraordinary chasm on the Col de Pilatte, +although in the aggregate they far surpassed it. <q>Our lives,</q> so +Reilly expressed it, <q>were made a burden to us with schrunds.</q> +</p> + +<p> +We flattered ourselves that we should arrive at the chalets of Prè +du Bar very early in the day; but, owing to much time being lost +on the slopes of Mont Rouge, it was nearly 4 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> before we got to +them. There were no bridges across the torrent nearer than Gruetta, +and rather than descend so far, we preferred to round the base of +Mont Rouge, and to cross the snout of the Glacier du Mont Dolent.<note place="foot">The passage of the Col de Triolet from the Couvercle to Prè du Bar occupied 8½ hours +of actual walking. If the pass had been taken in the contrary direction it would +have consumed a much longer time. It gave a route shorter than any known at the +time between Chamounix and the St. Bernard. As a pass I cannot conscientiously +recommend it to any one (see <ref target="Pg255">Chap. XVII.</ref>), nor am I desirous to go again over the +moraine on the left bank of the Glacier de Triolet, or the rocks of Mont Rouge.</note> +</p> + +<p> +We occupied the 9th with a scramble up Mont Dolent. This +was a miniature ascent. It contained a little of everything. First +we went up to the Col Ferret (No. 1), and had a little grind over +shaly banks; then there was a little walk over grass; then a little +tramp over a moraine (which, strange to say, gave a pleasant +path); then a little zigzagging over the snow-covered glacier of +Mont Dolent. Then there was a little bergschrund; then a little +wall of snow,—which we mounted by the side of a little buttress; +and when we struck the ridge descending S.E. from the summit, +we found a little arête of snow leading to the highest point. The +summit itself was little,—very small indeed; it was the loveliest +little cone of snow that was ever piled up on mountain-top; so +<pb n='183'/><anchor id='Pg183'/>soft, so pure; it seemed a crime to defile it; it was a miniature +Jungfrau, a toy summit, you could cover it with the hand.<note place="foot">The ascent of Mont Dolent and return to Prè du Bar (halts included) occupied +less than 11 hours.</note> +</p> + +<p> +But there was nothing little about the <hi rend='italic'>view</hi> from the Mont +Dolent. [Situated at the junction of three mountain ridges, it rises +in a positive steeple far above anything in its immediate neighbourhood; +and certain gaps in the surrounding ridges, which seem +contrived for that especial purpose, extend the view in almost every +direction. The precipices which descend to the Glacier d’Argentière +I can only compare to those of the Jungfrau, and the ridges on both +sides of that glacier, especially the steep rocks of Les Droites and +Les Courtes, surmounted by the sharp snow-peak of the Aig. Verte, +have almost the effect of the Grandes Jorasses. Then, framed, as +it were, between the massive tower of the Aig. de Triolet and the +more distant Jorasses, lies, without exception, the most delicately +beautiful picture I have ever seen—the whole <hi rend='italic'>massif</hi> of Mont Blanc, +raising its great head of snow far above the tangled series of flying +buttresses which uphold the Monts Maudits, supported on the left +by Mont Peuteret and by the mass of ragged aiguilles which overhang +the Brenva. This aspect of Mont Blanc is not new, but from +this point its <hi rend='italic'>pose</hi> is unrivalled, and it has all the superiority of a +picture grouped by the hand of a master.... The view is as +extensive, and far more lovely than that from Mont Blanc itself.]<note place="foot">The bracketed paragraphs in this chapter are extracted from the notes of Mr. +Reilly.</note> +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +We went down to Courmayeur, and on the afternoon of July 10 +started from that place to camp on Mont Suc, for the ascent of the +Aiguille de Trélatête; hopeful that the mists which were hanging +about would clear away. They did not, so we deposited ourselves, +and a vast load of straw, on the moraine of the Miage Glacier, just +above the Lac de Combal, in a charming little hole which some +solitary shepherd had excavated beneath a great slab of rock. We +spent the night there, and the whole of the next day, unwilling +<pb n='184'/><anchor id='Pg184'/>to run away, and equally so to get into difficulties by venturing +into the mist. It was a dull time, and I +grew restless. Reilly read to me a lecture +on the excellence of patience, and composed +himself in an easy attitude, to pore over the +pages of a yellow-covered book. <q>Patience,</q> +I said to him viciously, <q>comes readily +to fellows who have shilling novels; but I +have not got one; I have picked all the mud out of the nails of +my boots, and have skinned my face; what +shall I do?</q> <q>Go and study the moraine +of the Miage,</q> said he. I went, and came +back after an hour. <q>What news?</q> cried +Reilly, raising himself on his elbow. <q>Very +little; it’s a big moraine, bigger than I +thought, with ridge outside ridge, like a fortified camp; and there +are walls upon it which have been built +and loop-holed, as if for defence.</q> <q>Try +again,</q> he said, as he threw himself on his +back. But I went to Croz, who was asleep, +and tickled his nose with a straw until +he awoke; and then, as that amusement was played out, watched +Reilly, who was getting numbed, and shifted +uneasily from side to side, and threw himself +on his stomach, and rested his head +on his elbows, and lighted his pipe and +puffed at it savagely. When I looked again, +how was Reilly? An indistinguishable +heap; arms, legs, head, stones, and straw, all mixed together, his +hat flung on one side, his novel tossed far +away! Then I went to him, and read him +a lecture on the excellence of patience. +</p><anchor id="fig55"/> +<figure url="images/illus221a.png" rend="w40"> +<figDesc>Illustration: Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day</figDesc></figure> +<figure url="images/illus221b.png" rend="w40"> +<figDesc>Illustration: Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day</figDesc></figure> +<figure url="images/illus221c.png" rend="w40"> +<figDesc>Illustration: Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day</figDesc></figure> +<figure url="images/illus221d.png" rend="w40"> +<figDesc>Illustration: Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day</figDesc></figure> +<figure url="images/illus221e.png" rend="w40"> +<figDesc>Illustration: Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day</figDesc></figure> +<p> +Bah! it was a dull time. Our mountain, +like a beautiful coquette, sometimes +unveiled herself for a moment, and looked charming above, although +<pb n='185'/><anchor id='Pg185'/>very mysterious below. It was not until eventide she allowed +us to approach her; then, as darkness came on, the curtains were +withdrawn, the light drapery was lifted, and we stole up on tiptoe +through the grand portal formed by Mont Suc. But night advanced +rapidly, and we found ourselves left out in the cold, without a hole +to creep into or shelter from overhanging rock. We might have +fared badly, except for our good plaids. When they were sewn +together down their long edges, and one end tossed over our +rope (which was passed round some rocks), and the other secured +by stones, there was sufficient protection; and we slept on this +exposed ridge, 9700 feet above the level of the sea, more soundly, +perhaps, than if we had been lying on feather beds. +</p><anchor id="fig56"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: OUR CAMP ON MONT SUC.<note place="foot">From a sketch by Mr. Adams-Reilly.</note>]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus222.png" rend="w100"> + <head rend="ill">OUR CAMP ON MONT SUC.<note place="foot">From a sketch by Mr. Adams-Reilly.</note></head> + <figDesc>Illustration: Our camp on Mont Suc</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +We left our bivouac at 4.45 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi>, and at 9.40 arrived upon the +highest of the three summits of the Trélatête, by passing over the +<pb n='186'/><anchor id='Pg186'/>lowest one. It was well above everything at this end of the chain, +and the view from it was extraordinarily magnificent. The whole of +the western face of Mont Blanc was spread out before us; we were +the first by whom it had been ever seen. I cede the description of +this view to my comrade, to whom it rightfully belongs. +</p> + +<p> +[For four years I had felt great interest in the geography of +the chain; the year before I had mapped, more or less successfully, +all but this spot, and this spot had always eluded my grasp. +The praises, undeserved as they were, which my map had received, +were as gall and wormwood to me when I thought of that great +slope which I had been obliged to leave a blank, speckled over +with unmeaning dots of rock, gathered from previous maps—for I +had consulted them all without meeting an intelligible representation +of it. From the surface of the Miage glacier I had gained +nothing, for I could only see the feet of magnificent ice-streams, +and no more; but now, from the top of the dead wall of rock +which had so long closed my view, I saw those fine glaciers from +top to bottom, pouring down their streams, nearly as large as the +Bossons, from Mont Blanc, from the Bosse, and from the Dôme. +</p> + +<p> +The head of Mont Blanc is supported on this side by two buttresses, +between which vast glaciers descend. Of these the most +southern<note place="foot">This glacier is named Glacier du Mont Blanc.</note> takes its rise at the foot of the precipices which fall +steeply down from the Calotte,<note place="foot">The Calotte is the name given to the dome of snow at the summit of Mont +Blanc.</note> and its stream, as it joins that of +the Miage, is cut in two by an enormous <hi rend='italic'>rognon</hi> of rock. Next, to +the left, comes the largest of the buttresses of which I have spoken, +almost forming an aiguille in itself. The next glacier<note place="foot">Glacier du Dôme.</note> descends +from a large basin which receives the snows of the summit-ridge +between the Bosse and the Dome, and it is divided from the third +and last glacier<note place="foot">This is without a name.</note> by another buttress, which joins the summit-ridge +at a point between the Dôme and the Aig. de Bionnassay.] +</p> + +<p> +The great buttresses betwixt these magnificent ice-streams have +<pb n='187'/><anchor id='Pg187'/>supplied a large portion of the enormous masses of débris which +are disposed in ridges round about, and are strewn over, the termination +of the Glacier de Miage in the Val Véni. These moraines<note place="foot">I do not know the origin of the term <hi rend='italic'>moraine</hi>. De Saussure says (vol. i. p. 380, +§ 536), <q>the peasants of Chamounix call these heaps of débris <hi rend='italic'>the moraine</hi> of the +glacier.</q> It may be inferred from this that the term was a local one, peculiar to +Chamounix.</note> +used to be classed amongst the wonders of the world. They are +very large for a glacier of the size of the Miage. +</p> + +<p> +The dimensions of moraines are not ruled by those of glaciers. +Many small glaciers have large moraines,<note place="foot">An example is referred to on <ref target="Pg106">p. 106</ref>. Much more remarkable cases might be +instanced.</note> and many large ones +have small moraines. The size of the moraines of any glacier +depends mainly upon the area of rock surface that is exposed to +atmospheric influences within the basin drained by the glacier; +upon the nature of such rock,—whether it is friable or resistant; +and upon the dip of strata. Moraines most likely will be small if +little rock surface is exposed; but when large ones are seen, then, +in all probability, large areas of rock, uncovered by snow or ice, +will be found in immediate contiguity to the glacier. The Miage +glacier has large ones, because it receives detritus from many great +cliffs and ridges. But if this glacier, instead of lying, as it does, at +the bottom of a trough, were to fill that trough, if it were to completely +envelope the Aiguille de Trélatête, and the other mountains +which border it, and were to descend from Mont Blanc +unbroken by rock or ridge, it would be as destitute of morainic +matter as the great <hi rend='italic'>Mer de Glace</hi> of Greenland. For if a country or +district is <hi rend='italic'>completely</hi> covered up by glacier, the moraines may be +of the very smallest dimensions.<note place="foot">It is not usual to find small moraines to large glaciers fed by many branches +draining many different basins. That is, if the branches are draining basins which +are separated by mountain ridges, or which, at least, have islands of rock protruding +through the ice. The small moraines contributed by one affluent are balanced, probably, +by great ones brought by another feeder.</note> +</p> + +<p> +The contributions that are supplied to moraines by glaciers +themselves, from the abrasion of the rocks over which their ice +passes, are minute compared with the accumulations which are +<pb n='188'/><anchor id='Pg188'/>furnished from other sources. These great rubbish-heaps are +formed, one may say almost entirely, from débris which falls, +or is washed down the flanks of mountains, or from cliffs bordering +glaciers; and are composed, to a very limited extent +only, of matter that is ground, rasped, or filed off by the friction +of the ice. +</p> + +<p> +If the contrary view were to be adopted, if it could be maintained +that <q>glaciers, <hi rend='italic'>by their motion, break off masses of rock from +the sides and bottoms of their valley courses</hi>, and crowd along every +thing that is movable, so as to form large accumulations of débris +in front, and along their sides,</q><note place="foot"><hi rend='italic'>Atlas of Physical Geography</hi>, by Augustus Petermann and the Rev. T. Milner. +The italics are not in the original.</note> the conclusion could not be resisted, +the greater the glacier, the greater should be the moraine. +</p> + +<p> +This doctrine does not find much favour with those who have +personal knowledge of what glaciers do at the present time. From +De Saussure<note place="foot"><q>The stones that are found upon the upper extremities of glaciers are of the +same nature as the mountains which rise above; but, as the ice carries them down +into the valleys, they arrive between rocks of a totally different nature from their +own.</q>—De Saussure, § 536.</note> downwards it has been pointed out, time after time, +that moraines are chiefly formed from débris coming from rocks +or soil <hi rend='italic'>above</hi> the ice, not from the bed over which it passes. But +amongst the writings of modern speculators upon glaciers and +glacier-action in bygone times, it is not uncommon to find the +notions entertained, that moraines represent the amount of <hi rend='italic'>excavation</hi> +(such is the term employed) performed by glaciers, or at least +are comprised of matter which has been excavated by glaciers; +that vast moraines have necessarily been produced by vast +glaciers; and that a great extension of glaciers necessarily causes +the production of vast moraines. Such generalisations cannot be +sustained. +</p> + +<pb n='189'/><anchor id='Pg189'/> + +<p> +We descended in our track to the Lac de Combal, and from +thence went over the Col de la Seigne to les Motets, where we +slept; on July 13, crossed the Col du Mont Tondu to Contamines +(in a sharp thunderstorm), and the Col de Voza to Chamounix. +Two days only remained for excursions in this neighbourhood, and +we resolved to employ them in another attempt to ascend the +Aiguille d’Argentière, upon which mountain we had been cruelly +defeated just eight days before. +</p> + +<p> +It happened in this way.—Reilly had a notion that the ascent +of the Aiguille could be accomplished by following the ridge leading +to its summit from the Col du Chardonnet. At half-past six, +on the morning of the 6th, we found ourselves accordingly on the +top of that pass. The party consisted of our friend Moore and +his guide Almer, Reilly and his guide François Couttet, myself +and Michel Croz. So far the weather had been calm, and the way +easy; but immediately we arrived on the summit of the pass, we +got into a furious wind. Five minutes earlier we were warm,—now +we were frozen. Fine snow whirled up into the air penetrated +every crack in our harness, and assailed our skins as painfully +as if it had been red hot instead of freezing cold. The teeth +chattered involuntarily—talking was laborious; the breath froze +instantaneously; eating was disagreeable; sitting was impossible! +</p> + +<p> +We looked towards our mountain. Its aspect was not encouraging. +The ridge that led upwards had a spiked arête, palisaded +with miniature aiguilles, banked up at their bases by heavy snow-beds, +which led down, at considerable angles, on one side towards +the Glacier de Saleinoz, on the other towards the Glacier du Chardonnet. +Under any circumstances, it would have been a stiff piece +of work to clamber up that way. Prudence and comfort counselled, +<q>Give it up.</q> Discretion overruled valour. Moore and Almer +crossed the Col du Chardonnet to go to Orsières, and we others +returned towards Chamounix. +</p> + +<p> +But when we got some distance down, the evil spirit which +prompts men to ascend mountains tempted us to stop, and to look +<pb n='190'/><anchor id='Pg190'/>back at the Aiguille d’Argentière. The sky was cloudless; no +wind could be felt, nor sign of it perceived; it was only eight +o’clock in the morning; and there, right before us, we saw another +branch of the glacier leading high up into the mountain—far +above the Col du Chardonnet—and a little couloir rising +from its head almost to the top of the peak. This was clearly the +right route to take. We turned back, and went at it. +</p> + +<p> +The glacier was steep, and the snow gully rising out of it was +steeper. Seven hundred steps were cut. Then the couloir became +<hi rend='italic'>too</hi> steep. We took to the rocks on its left, and at last gained the +ridge, at a point about 1500 feet above the Col du Chardonnet. +We faced about to the right, and went along the ridge; keeping +on some snow a little below its crest, on the Saleinoz side. Then +we got the wind again; yet no one thought of turning, for we +were within 250 feet of the summit. +</p> + +<p> +The axes of Croz and Couttet went to work once more, for the +slope was about as steep as snow-slope could be. Its surface was +covered with a loose, granular crust; dry and utterly incoherent; +which slipped away in streaks directly it was meddled with. The +men had to cut through this into the old beds underneath, and to +pause incessantly to rake away the powdery stuff, which poured +down in hissing streams over the hard substratum. Ugh! how +cold it was! How the wind blew! Couttet’s hat was torn from +its fastenings, and went on a tour in Switzerland. The flour-like +snow, swept off the ridge above, was tossed spirally upwards, +eddying in <hi rend='italic'>tourmentes</hi>; then, dropt in lulls, or caught by other +gusts, was flung far and wide to feed the Saleinoz. +</p> + +<p> +<q>My feet are getting suspiciously numbed,</q> cried Reilly: +<q>how about frost-bites?</q> <q>Kick hard, sir,</q> shouted the men; +<q>it’s the only way.</q> <hi rend='italic'>Their</hi> fingers were kept alive by their work; +but it was cold for the feet, and they kicked and hewed simultaneously. +I followed their example too violently, and made a +hole clean through my footing. A clatter followed as if crockery +had been thrown down a well. +</p> + +<pb n='191'/><anchor id='Pg191'/> + +<p> +I went down a step or two, and discovered in a second that all +were standing over a cavern (not a crevasse, speaking properly) +that was bridged over by a thin vault of ice, from which great +icicles hung in groves. Almost in the same minute Reilly pushed +one of his hands right through the roof. The whole party might +have tumbled through at any moment. <q>Go ahead, Croz, we are +over a chasm!</q> <q>We know it,</q> he answered, <q>and we can’t find +a firm place.</q> +</p> + +<p> +In the blandest manner, my comrade inquired if to persevere +would not be to do that which is called <q>tempting Providence.</q> +My reply being in the affirmative, he further observed, <q>Suppose +we go down?</q> <q>Very willingly.</q> <q>Ask the guides.</q> They had +not the least objection; so we went down, and slept that night at +the Montanvert. +</p> + +<p> +Off the ridge we were out of the wind. In fact, a hundred feet +down <hi rend='italic'>to windward</hi>, on the slope fronting the Glacier du Chardonnet, +we were broiling hot; there was not a suspicion of a breeze. +Upon that side there was nothing to tell that a hurricane was +raging a hundred feet higher,—the cloudless sky looked tranquillity +itself: whilst to leeward the only sign of a disturbed atmosphere +was the friskiness of the snow upon the crests of the ridges. +</p> + +<p> +We set out on the 14th, with Croz, Payot, and Charlet, to +finish off the work which had been cut short so abruptly, and slept, +as before, at the Chalets de Lognan. On the 15th, about midday, +we arrived upon the summit of the aiguille, and found that we +had actually been within one hundred feet of it when we turned +back upon the first attempt. +</p> + +<p> +It was a triumph to Reilly. In this neighbourhood he had +performed the feat (in 1863) of joining together <q>two mountains, +each about 13,000 feet high, standing on the map about a mile +and a half apart.</q> Long before we made the ascent he had procured +evidence which could not be impugned, that the Pointe des +Plines, a fictitious summit which had figured on other maps as a +distinct mountain, could be no other than the Aiguille d’Argentière, +<pb n='192'/><anchor id='Pg192'/>and he had accordingly obliterated it from the preliminary draft +of his map. We saw that it was right to do so. The Pointe +des Plines did not exist. We had ocular demonstration of the +accuracy of his previous observations. +</p> + +<p> +I do not know which to admire most, the fidelity of Mr. Reilly’s +map, or the indefatigable industry by which the materials were +accumulated from which it was constructed. To men who are sound +in limb it may be amusing to arrive on a summit (as we did upon +the top of Mont Dolent), sitting astride a ridge too narrow to stand +upon; or to do battle with a ferocious wind (as we did on the top of +the Aiguille de Trélatête); or to feel half-frozen in midsummer (as +we did on the Aiguille d’Argentière). But there is extremely little +amusement in making sketches and notes under such conditions. +Yet upon all these expeditions, under the most adverse circumstances, +and in the most trying situations, Mr. Reilly’s brain and +fingers were always at work. Throughout all he was ever alike; +the same genial, equable-tempered companion, whether victorious +or whether defeated; always ready to sacrifice his own desires to +suit our comfort and convenience. By a happy union of audacity +and prudence, combined with untiring perseverance, he eventually +completed his self-imposed task—a work which would have been +intolerable except as a labour of love—and which, for a single +individual, may well-nigh be termed Herculean. +</p> + +<p> +We separated upon the level part of the Glacier d’Argentière, +Reilly going with Payot and Charlet <hi rend='italic'>viâ</hi> the chalets of Lognan and +de la Pendant, whilst I, with Croz, followed the right bank of the +glacier to the village of Argentière.<note place="foot">One cannot do worse than follow that path.</note> At 7 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> we entered the +humble inn, and ten minutes afterwards heard the echoes of +the cannon which were fired upon the arrival of our comrades +at Chamounix.<note place="foot">The lower chalet de Lognan is 2½ hours’ walking from Chamounix. From +thence to the summit of the Aiguille d’Argentière, and down to the village of the +same name, occupied 12½ hours.</note> +</p> +</div><div type="chapter" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='193'/><anchor id='Pg193'/> +<index index="toc" level1="Chapter XI. The first passage of the Moming pass"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Chapter XI. The first passage of the Moming pass"/> +<head>CHAPTER XI.</head> + +<head type="sub">THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE MOMING PASS—ZINAL TO ZERMATT.</head> + +<epigraph><lg> +<l><q>A daring leader is a dangerous thing.</q></l> +<l rend="text-align: right"><hi rend='smallcaps'>Euripides.</hi></l> +</lg></epigraph> + +<p> +On July 10, Croz and I went to Sierre, in the Valais, <hi rend='italic'>viâ</hi> the Col +de Balme, the Col de la Forclaz, and Martigny. The Swiss side of +the Forclaz is not creditable to Switzerland. The path from Martigny +to the summit has undergone successive improvements in +these latter years; but mendicants permanently disfigure it. +</p> + +<p> +We passed many tired pedestrians toiling up this oven, persecuted +by trains of parasitic children. These children swarm there +like maggots in a rotten cheese. They carry baskets of fruit with +which to plague the weary tourist. They flit around him like +flies; they thrust the fruit in his face; they pester him with their +pertinacity. Beware of them!—taste, touch not their fruit. In +the eyes of these children, each peach, each grape, is worth a +prince’s ransom. It is to no purpose to be angry; it is like flapping +wasps—they only buzz the more. Whatever you do, or whatever +you say, the end will be the same. <q>Give me something,</q> is +the alpha and omega of all their addresses. They learn the phrase, +it is said, before they are taught the alphabet. It is in all their +mouths. From the tiny toddler up to the maiden of sixteen, there +is nothing heard but one universal chorus of—<q>Give me something; +will you have the goodness to give me something?</q> +</p> + +<p> +From Sierre we went up the Val d’Anniviers to Zinal, to join +our former companions, Moore and Almer. Moore was ambitious +to discover a shorter way from Zinal to Zermatt than the two +<pb n='194'/><anchor id='Pg194'/>passes which were known.<note place="foot"><p> +The Col de Zinal or Triftjoch, between the Trifthorn and the Ober Gabelhorn; +and the Col Durand between the last-mentioned mountain and the Dent Blanche. +</p> + +<p> +For our route from Zinal to Zermatt, see the <ref target="map2">Map of the Valley of Zermatt</ref>. +</p></note> He had shown to me, upon Dufour’s +map, that a direct line, connecting the two places, passed exactly +over the depression between the Zinal-Rothhorn and the Schallhorn. +He was confident that a passage could be effected over this +depression, and was sanguine that it would (in consequence of its +directness) prove to be a quicker route than the circuitous ones +over the Triftjoch and the Col Durand. +</p> + +<p> +He was awaiting us, and we immediately proceeded up the +valley, and across the foot of the Zinal glacier to the Arpitetta Alp, +where a chalet was supposed to exist in which we might pass the +night. We found it at length,<note place="foot">High above the Glacier de Moming at the foot of the Crête de Milton.</note> but it was not equal to our expectations. +It was not one of those fine timbered chalets, with +huge overhanging eaves, covered with pious sentences carved in +unintelligible characters. It was a hovel, growing, as it were, out +of the hill-side; roofed with rough slabs of slaty stone; without +a door or window; surrounded by quagmires of ordure, and dirt +of every description. +</p> + +<p> +A foul native invited us to enter. The interior was dark; and, +when our eyes became accustomed to the gloom, we saw that our +palace was in plan about 15 by 20 feet; on one side it was +scarcely five feet high, and on the other was nearly seven. On +this side there was a raised platform, about six feet wide, littered +with dirty straw and still dirtier sheepskins. This was the bedroom. +The remainder of the width of the apartment was the +parlour. The rest was the factory. Cheese was the article which +was being fabricated, and the foul native was engaged in its +manufacture. He was garnished behind with a regular cowherd’s +one-legged stool, which gave him a queer, uncanny look when it +was elevated in the air as he bent over into his tub; for the making +of his cheese required him to blow into a tub for ten minutes at a +<pb n='195'/><anchor id='Pg195'/>time. He then squatted on his stool to gain breath, and took a +few whiffs at a short pipe; after which he blew away more vigorously +than before. We were told that this procedure was necessary. +It appeared to us to be nasty. It accounts, perhaps, for +the flavour possessed by certain Swiss cheeses. +</p> + +<p> +Big, black, and leaden-coloured clouds rolled up from Zinal, +and met in combat on the Moming glacier with others which +descended from the Rothhorn. Down came the rain in torrents, +and crash went the thunder. The herd-boys hurried under shelter, +for the frightened cattle needed no driving, and tore spontaneously +down the Alp as if running a steeple-chase. Men, cows, pigs, +sheep, and goats forgot their mutual animosities, and rushed to +the only refuge on the mountain. The spell was broken which +had bound the elements for some weeks past, and the <hi rend='italic'>cirque</hi> from +the Weisshorn to Lo Besso was the theatre in which they spent +their fury. +</p> + +<p> +A sullen morning succeeded an angry night. We were undecided +in our council whether to advance or to return down the +valley. Good seemed likely to overpower bad; so, at 5.40, we +left the chalet <hi rend='italic'>en route</hi> for our pass [amidst the most encouraging +assurances from all the people on the Alp that we need not distress +ourselves about the weather, as it was not possible to get to the +point at which we were aiming].<note place="foot">Moore’s Journal.</note> +</p> + +<p> +Our course led us at first over ordinary mountain slopes, and +then over a flat expanse of glacier. Before this was quitted, it +was needful to determine the exact line which was to be taken. +We were divided betwixt two opinions. I advocated that a +course should be steered due south, and that the upper plateau of +the Moming glacier should be attained by making a great detour +to our right. This was negatived without a division. Almer +declared in favour of making for some rocks to the south-west of +the Schallhorn, and attaining the upper plateau of the glacier by +mounting them. Croz advised a middle course, up some very +<pb n='196'/><anchor id='Pg196'/>steep and broken glacier. Croz’s route seemed likely to turn out +to be impracticable, because much step-cutting would be required +upon it. Almer’s rocks did not look good; they were, possibly, +unassailable. I thought both routes were bad, and declined to +vote for either of them. Moore hesitated, Almer gave way, and +Croz’s route was adopted. +</p> + +<p> +He did not go very far, however, before he found that he had +undertaken too much, and after [glancing occasionally round at us, +to see what we thought about it, suggested that it might, after all, +be wiser to take to the rocks of the Schallhorn]. That is to say, +he suggested the abandonment of his own and the adoption of +Almer’s route. No one opposed the change of plan, and, in the +absence of instructions to the contrary, he proceeded to cut steps +across an ice-slope towards the rocks. +</p> + +<p> +Let the reader now cast his eye upon the <ref target="map2">map of the Valley of +Zermatt</ref>, and he will see that when we quitted the slopes of the +Arpitetta Alp, we took a south-easterly course over the Moming +glacier. We halted to settle the plan of attack shortly after we +got upon the ice. The rocks of the Schallhorn, whose ascent +Almer recommended, were then to our south-east. Croz’s proposed +route was to the south-west of the rocks, and led up the southern +side of a very steep and broken glacier.<note place="foot">Through what is technically called an <q>ice-fall.</q></note> The part he intended to +traverse was, in a sense, undoubtedly practicable. He gave it up +because it would have involved too much step-cutting. But the +part of this glacier which intervened between his route and +Almer’s rocks was, in the most complete sense of the word, +impracticable. It passed over a continuation of the rocks, and +was broken in half by them. The upper portion was separated +from the lower portion by a long slope of ice that had been built +up from the débris of the glacier which had fallen from above. +The foot of this slope was surrounded by immense quantities of the +larger avalanche blocks. These we cautiously skirted, and when +Croz halted they had been left far below, and we were half-way up +<pb n='197'/><anchor id='Pg197'/>the side of the great slope which led to the base of the ice-wall +above. +</p> + +<p> +Across this ice-slope Croz now proceeded to cut. It was +executing a flank movement in the face of an enemy by whom +we might be attacked at any moment. The peril was obvious. It +was a monstrous folly. It was foolhardiness. A retreat should +have been sounded.<note place="foot">The responsibility, however, did not rest with Croz. His part was to advise, +but not to direct.</note> +</p> + +<p> +<q>I am not ashamed to confess,</q> wrote Moore in his Journal, +<q>that during the whole time we were crossing this slope my heart +was in my mouth, and I never felt relieved from such a load of +care as when, after, I suppose, a passage of about twenty minutes, +we got on to the rocks and were in safety.... I have never +heard a positive oath come from Almer’s mouth, but the language +in which he kept up a running commentary, more to himself than +to me, as we went along, was stronger than I should have given +him credit for using. His prominent feeling seemed to be one of +<hi rend='italic'>indignation</hi> that we should be in such a position, and self-reproach +at being a party to the proceeding; while the emphatic way in +which, at intervals, he exclaimed, <q>Quick; be quick,</q> sufficiently +betokened his alarm.</q> +</p> + +<p> +It was not necessary to admonish Croz to be quick. He was +fully as alive to the risk as any of the others. He told me afterwards, +that this place was the most dangerous he had ever +crossed, and that no consideration whatever would tempt him +to cross it again. Manfully did he exert himself to escape from +the impending destruction. His head, bent down to his work, +never turned to the right or to the left. One, two, three, went his +axe, and then he stepped on to the spot where he had been cutting. +How painfully insecure should we have considered those steps at +any other time! But now, we thought only of the rocks in front, +and of the hideous <hi rend='italic'>séracs</hi>, lurching over above us, apparently in +the act of falling. +</p> + +<pb n='198'/><anchor id='Pg198'/> + +<p> +We got to the rocks in safety, and if they had been doubly as +difficult as they were, we should still have been well content. We +sat down and refreshed the inner man; keeping our eyes on the +towering pinnacles of ice under which we had passed; but which, +now, were almost beneath +us. Without a preliminary +warning sound, one +of the largest—as high as +the Monument at London +Bridge—fell upon the +slope below. The stately +mass heeled over as if +upon a hinge (holding +together until it bent 30 +degrees forwards), then +it crushed out its base, +and, rent into a thousand +fragments, plunged vertically +down upon the slope +that we had crossed! +Every atom of our track, that was in its course, was obliterated; +all the new snow was swept away, and a broad sheet of smooth, +glassy ice, showed the resistless force with which it had fallen. +</p><anchor id="fig57"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: ICE-AVALANCHE ON THE MOMING PASS.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus235.png" rend="w100"><head rend="ill">ICE-AVALANCHE ON THE MOMING PASS.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: Ice-avalanche on the Moming Pass</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +It was inexcusable to follow such a perilous path, but it is easy +<pb n='199'/><anchor id='Pg199'/>to understand why it was taken. To have retreated from the place +where Croz suggested a change of plan, to have descended below +the reach of danger, and to have mounted again by the route which +Almer suggested, would have been equivalent to abandoning the +excursion; for no one would have passed another night in the +chalet on the Arpitetta Alp. <q>Many,</q> says Thucydides, <q>though +seeing well the perils ahead, are forced along by fear of dishonour—as +the world calls it—so that, vanquished by a mere word, they +fall into irremediable calamities.</q> Such was nearly the case here. +No one could say a word in justification of the course which was +adopted; all were alive to the danger that was being encountered; +yet a grave risk was deliberately—although unwillingly—incurred, +in preference to admitting, by withdrawal from an untenable position, +that an error of judgment had been committed. +</p> + +<p> +After a laborious trudge over many species of snow, and through +many varieties of vapour—from the quality of a Scotch mist to that +of a London fog—we at length stood on the depression between +the Rothhorn and the Schallhorn.<note place="foot">The summit of the pass has been marked on Dufour’s map 3793 mètres, or +12,444 feet.</note> A steep wall of snow was upon +the Zinal side of the summit; but what the descent was like on +the other side we could not tell, for a billow of snow tossed over +its crest by the western winds, suspended o’er Zermatt with +motion arrested, resembling an ocean-wave frozen in the act of +breaking, cut off the view.<note place="foot"><p> +These snow-cornices are common on the crests of high mountain ridges, and +it is always prudent (just before arriving upon the summit of a mountain or ridge) +to <hi rend='italic'>sound</hi> with the alpenstock, that is to say, drive it in, to discover whether there is +one or not. Men have often narrowly escaped losing their lives from neglecting this +precaution. Several instances have been known of cornices having given way without +a moment’s notice, and of life only having been saved through men being tied +together. +</p> + +<p> +These cornices are frequently rolled round in a volute, and sometimes take most +extravagant forms. See <ref target="Pg032">page 32</ref>. +</p></note> +</p> + +<p> +Croz—held hard in by the others, who kept down the Zinal +side—opened his shoulders, flogged down the foam, and cut away +<pb n='200'/><anchor id='Pg200'/>the cornice to its junction with the summit; then boldly leaped +down, and called on us to follow him. +</p><anchor id="fig58"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: SUMMIT OF THE MOMING PASS IN 1864.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus237.jpg" rend="w100"> + <head rend="ill">SUMMIT OF THE MOMING PASS IN 1864.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: Summit of the Moming Pass in 1864</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +It was well for us now that we had such a man as leader. An +inferior or less daring guide would have hesitated to enter upon the +<pb n='201'/><anchor id='Pg201'/>descent in a dense mist; and Croz himself would have done right +to pause had he been less magnificent in <hi rend='italic'>physique</hi>. He acted, +rather than said, <q>Where snow lies fast, there man can go; where +ice exists, a way may be cut; it is a question of power; I have +the power,—all you have to do is to follow me.</q> Truly, he did not +spare himself, and could he have performed the feats upon the +boards of a theatre that he did upon this occasion, he would have +brought down the house with thunders of applause. Here is what +Moore wrote in <hi rend='italic'>his</hi> Journal. +</p> + +<p> +[The descent bore a strong resemblance to the Col de Pilatte, +but was very much steeper and altogether more difficult, which is +saying a good deal. Croz was in his element, and selected his way +with marvellous sagacity, while Almer had an equally honourable +and, perhaps, more responsible post in the rear, which he kept with +his usual steadiness.... One particular passage has impressed +itself on my mind as one of the most nervous I have ever made. +We had to pass along a crest of ice, a mere knife-edge,—on our +left a broad crevasse, whose bottom was lost in blue haze, and on +our right, at an angle of 70°, or more, a slope falling to a similar +gulf below. Croz, as he went along the edge, chipped small +notches in the ice, in which we placed our feet, with the toes well +turned out, doing all we knew to preserve our balance. While +stepping from one of these precarious footholds to another, I +staggered for a moment. I had not really lost my footing; but +the agonised tone in which Almer, who was behind me, on seeing +me waver, exclaimed, <q>Slip not, sir!</q> gave us an even livelier +impression than we already had of the insecurity of the position.... +One huge chasm, whose upper edge was far above the lower +one, could neither be leaped nor turned, and threatened to prove +an insuperable barrier. But Croz showed himself equal to the +emergency. Held up by the rest of the party, he cut a series of +holes for the hands and feet, down and along the almost perpendicular +wall of ice forming the upper side of the <hi rend='italic'>schrund</hi>. Down +this slippery staircase we crept, with our faces to the wall, until a +<pb n='202'/><anchor id='Pg202'/>point was reached where the width of the chasm was not too great +for us to drop across. Before we had done, we got quite accustomed +to taking flying leaps over the <hi rend='italic'>schrunds</hi>.... To make a +long story short; after a most desperate and exciting struggle, and +as bad a piece of ice-work as it is possible to imagine, we emerged +on to the upper plateau of the Hohlicht glacier.] +</p> + +<p> +The glimpses which had been caught of the lower part of the +Hohlicht glacier were discouraging, so it was now determined to +cross over the ridge between it and the Rothhorn glacier. This +was not done without great trouble. Again we rose to a height +exceeding 12,000 feet. Eventually we took to the track of the +despised Triftjoch, and descended by the well-known, but rough, +path which leads to that pass; arriving at the Monte Rosa hotel at +Zermatt at 7.20 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> We occupied nearly twelve hours of actual +walking in coming from the chalet on the Arpitetta Alp (which +was 2½ hours above Zinal), and we consequently found that the +Moming pass was not the shortest route from Zinal to Zermatt, +although it was the most direct. +</p> +<milestone unit="tb"/> +<p> +Two dozen guides—good, bad, and indifferent; French, Swiss, +and Italian—can commonly be seen sitting on the wall on the front +of the Monte Rosa hotel: waiting on their employers, and looking +for employers; watching new arrivals, and speculating on the +number of francs which may be extracted from their pockets. The +<hi rend='italic'>Messieurs</hi>—sometimes strangely and wonderfully dressed—stand +about in groups, or lean back in chairs, or lounge on the benches +which are placed by the door. They wear extraordinary boots, +and still more remarkable head-dresses. Their peeled, blistered, +and swollen faces are worth studying. Some, by the exercise of +watchfulness and unremitting care, have been fortunate enough +to acquire a fine raw sienna complexion. But most of them have +not been so happy. They have been scorched on rocks, and roasted +on glaciers. Their cheeks—first puffed, then cracked—have exuded +a turpentine-like matter, which has coursed down their faces, and +<pb n='203'/><anchor id='Pg203'/>has dried in patches like the resin on the trunks of pines. They +have removed it, and at the same time have pulled off large flakes +of their skin. They have gone from bad to worse—their case has +become hopeless—knives and scissors have been called into play; +tenderly, and daintily, they have endeavoured to reduce their +cheeks to one, uniform hue. It is not to be done. But they have +gone on, fascinated, and at last have brought their unhappy countenances +to a state of helpless and complete ruin. Their lips are +cracked; their cheeks are swollen; their eyes are blood-shot; their +noses are peeled and indescribable. +</p><anchor id="plate09"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE CLUB-ROOM OF ZERMATT, IN 1864.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus240.jpg" rend="w100"> + <head rend="ill">THE CLUB-ROOM OF ZERMATT, IN 1864.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: The club-room of Zermatt, in 1864</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +Such are the pleasures of the mountaineer! Scornfully and +derisively the last comer compares the sight with his own flaccid +face and dainty hands; unconscious that he too, perhaps, will be +numbered with those whom he now ridicules. +</p> + +<p> +There is a frankness of manner about these strangely-apparelled +and queer-faced men, which does not remind one of drawing-room, +or city life; and it is good to see—in this club-room of +Zermatt—those cold bodies, our too-frigid countrymen, <anchor id="corr203"/><corr sic="regele">regale</corr> +together when brought into contact; and it is pleasant to witness +the hearty welcome given to the new-comers by the host and his +excellent wife.<note place="foot"><p> +This opportunity has been taken to introduce to the reader some of the most +expert amateur mountaineers of the time; and a few of the guides who have been, +or will be, mentioned in the course of the book. +</p> + +<p> +The late Peter <anchor id="corr203b"/><corr sic="Pernn">Perrn</corr> is on the extreme right. Then come young Peter Taugwalder +(upon the bench); and J. J. Maquignaz (leaning against the door-post). +Franz Andermatten occupies the steps, and Ulrich Lauener towers in the background. +</p></note> +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +I left this agreeable society to seek letters at the post. They +yielded disastrous intelligence. My holiday was brought to an +abrupt termination, and I awaited the arrival of Reilly (who was +convoying the stores for the attack on the Matterhorn) only to +inform him that our arrangements were upset; then travelled +home, day and night, as fast as express trains would carry me. +</p> +</div><div type="chapter" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='204'/><anchor id='Pg204'/> +<index index="toc" level1="Chapter XII. The first ascent of the Grand Cornier"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Chapter XII. The first ascent of the Grand Cornier"/> +<head>CHAPTER XII.</head> + +<head type="sub">THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE GRAND CORNIER.</head> + +<epigraph><lg> +<l><q rend="post: none">Ye crags and peaks, I’m with you once again!</q></l> +<l>.   .   .   Methinks I hear</l> +<l>A spirit in your echoes answers me,</l> +<l>And bid your tenant welcome to his home</l> +<l><q rend="pre: none">Again!</q></l> +<l rend="text-align: right"><hi rend='smallcaps'>S. Knowles.</hi></l> +</lg> +</epigraph> +<p> +Our career in 1864 had been one of unbroken success, but the +great ascent upon which I had set my heart was not attempted, +and, until it was accomplished, I was unsatisfied. Other things, +too, influenced me to visit the Alps once more. I wished to travel +elsewhere, in places where the responsibility of direction would +rest with myself alone. It was well to know how far my judgment +in the choice of routes could be relied upon. +</p> + +<p> +The journey of 1865 was chiefly undertaken, then, to find out +to what extent I was capable to select paths over mountainous +country. The programme which was drawn up for this journey +was rather ambitious, since it included almost all of the great +peaks which had not then been ascended; but it was neither +lightly undertaken nor hastily executed. All pains were taken +to secure success. Information was sought from those who could +give it, and the defeats of others were studied, that their errors +might be avoided. The results which followed came not so much, +perhaps, from luck, as from forethought and careful calculation. +</p> + +<p> +For success does not, as a rule, come by chance, and when one +fails there is a reason for it. But when any notable, or so-called +brilliant thing is done, we are too apt to look upon the success +<pb n='205'/><anchor id='Pg205'/>alone, without considering how it was accomplished. Whilst, when +men fail, we inquire why they have not succeeded. So failures are +oftentimes more instructive than successes, and the disappointments +of some become profitable to others. +</p> + +<p> +Up to a certain point, the programme was completely and +happily carried out. Nothing but success attended our efforts so +long as the excursions were executed as they had been planned. +Most of them were made upon the very days which had been +fixed for them months beforehand; and all were accomplished, +comparatively speaking, so easily, that their descriptions must be, +in the absence of difficulty and danger, less interesting to the +general reader than they would have been if our course had been +marked by blunders and want of judgment. Before proceeding to +speak of these excursions, it will not be entirely useless to explain +the reasons which influenced the selection of the routes which +were adopted upon them. +</p> + +<p> +In the course of the past five seasons my early practices were +revolutionised. My antipathy to snow was overcome, and my +predilection for rocks was modified. Like all those who are not +mountaineers born, I was, at the first, extremely nervous upon +steep snow. The snow seemed bound to slip, and all those who +were upon it to go along with it. Snow of a certain quality is +undoubtedly liable to slip when it is at a certain +inclination.<note place="foot">See <ref target="Pg115">pp. 115</ref> and <ref target="Pg190">190</ref>.</note> +The exact states which are dangerous, or safe, it is not possible to +describe in writing. That is only learnt by experience, and confidence +upon snow is not really felt until one has gained experience. +Confidence gradually came to me, and as it came so did my partiality +for rocks diminish. For it was evident, to use a common +expression, that it paid better to travel upon snow than upon +rocks. This applies to snow-beds pure and simple, or to snow +which is lying over glacier; and in the selection of routes it has, +latterly, always been my practice to look for the places where snow +slopes, or snow-covered glaciers, reach highest into mountains.<note place="foot">See <ref target="Pg141">p. 141</ref>.</note> +</p> + +<pb n='206'/><anchor id='Pg206'/> + +<p> +It is comparatively seldom, however, that an ascent of a great +mountain can be executed exclusively upon snow and glacier. +Ridges peep through which have to be surmounted. In my earlier +scramblings I usually took to, or was taken upon, the summits (or +arêtes) of the ridges, and a good many mountaineers habitually +take to them on principle, as the natural and proper way. According +to my experience, it is seldom well to do so when any other +course is open. As I have already said, and presently shall repeat +more particularly, the crests of all the main ridges of the great +peaks of the Alps are shattered and cleft by frost; and it not unfrequently +happens that a notch in a ridge, which appears perfectly +insignificant from a distance, is found to be an insuperable barrier +to farther progress; and a great detour, or a long descent, has to +be made to avoid the obstacle. When committed to an arête one +is tied, almost always, to a particular course, from which it is difficult +to deviate. Much loss of time must result if any serious +obstruction occurs; and defeat often follows a temporary check. +</p> + +<p> +But it rarely happens that a great alpine peak is seen that is +cut off abruptly, in all directions, from the snows and glaciers which +surround it. In its gullies snow will cling, although its faces may +be too steep for the formation of permanent snow-beds. The merits +of these snow-gullies (or <hi rend='italic'>couloirs</hi>) have been already pointed + out,<note place="foot">See <ref target="Pg169">pp. 169</ref>-<ref target="Pg171">171</ref>.</note> +and it is hardly necessary to observe, after that which was just +now said about snow, that ascents of snow-gullies (with proper precautions) +are very much to be preferred to ascents of rocky arêtes. +</p> + +<p> +By following the glaciers, the snow-slopes above, and the +couloirs rising from them, it is usually possible to get very close +to the summits of the great peaks in the Alps. The final climb +will, perhaps, necessarily be by an arête. The less of it the better. +</p> + +<p> +It occasionally occurs that considerable mountain slopes, or +faces, are destitute of snow-gullies. In that case it will, very +likely, be best to adhere to the faces (or to the gullies or minor +ridges upon them) rather than to take to the <hi rend='italic'>great</hi> ridges. Upon a +<pb n='207'/><anchor id='Pg207'/>face one can move to the right or to the left with more facility +than upon the crest of a ridge; and when a difficulty is arrived at, +it is, consequently, less troublesome to circumvent. +</p> + +<p> +In selecting the routes which were taken in 1865, I looked, +first, for places where glaciers and snow extended highest up into +the mountains which were to be ascended, or the ridges which +were to be crossed. Next, for gullies filled with snow leading still +higher; and finally, from the heads of the gullies we completed +the ascents, whenever it was practicable, by faces instead of by +arêtes. The ascent of the Grand Cornier (13,022), of the Dent +Blanche (14,318), Grandes Jorasses (13,700), Aiguille Verte +(13,540), Ruinette (12,727), and the Matterhorn (14,780), were all +accomplished in this way; besides the other excursions which will +be referred to by and by. The route selected, before the start +was made, was in every case strictly followed out. +</p> + +<p> +We inspected all of these mountains from neighbouring heights +before entering upon their ascents. I explained to the guides the +routes I proposed to be taken, and (when the courses were at all +complicated) sketched them out on paper to prevent misunderstanding. +In some few cases they suggested variations, and in +every case the route was well discussed. The <hi rend='italic'>execution</hi> of the +work was done by the guides, and I seldom interfered with, or +attempted to assist in it. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +The 13th of June 1865 I spent in the valley of Lauterbrunnen +with the Rev. W. H. Hawker and the guides Christian and Ulrich +Lauener; and on the 14th crossed the Petersgrat with Christian +Almer and Johann Tännler to Turtman (Tourtemagne) in the +Valais. Tännler was then paid off, as Michel Croz and Franz +Biener were awaiting me. +</p> + +<p> +It was not possible to find two leading guides who worked +together more harmoniously than Croz and Almer. Biener’s part +was subordinate to theirs, and he was added as a convenience rather +than as a necessity. Croz spoke French alone, Almer little else +than German. Biener spoke both languages, and was useful on +<pb n='208'/><anchor id='Pg208'/>that account; but he seldom went to the front, excepting during +the early part of the day, when the work was easy, and he acted +throughout more as a porter than as a guide. +</p> + +<p> +The importance of having a reserve of power on mountain +expeditions cannot be too strongly insisted upon. We always had +some in hand, and were never pressed, or overworked, so long as +we were together. Come what might, we were ready for it. But +by a series of chances, which I shall never cease to regret, I was +first obliged to part with Croz, and then to dismiss the others;<note place="foot">See <ref target="Pg236">pp. 236</ref> and <ref target="Pg266">266</ref>.</note> +and so, deviating from the course that I had deliberately adopted, +which was successful in practice because it was sound in principle, +became fortuitously a member of an expedition that ended with +the catastrophe which brings this book, and brought my scrambles +amongst the Alps, to a close.<note place="foot"><p> +I engaged Croz for 1865 before I parted from him in 1864; but upon writing to +him in the month of April to fix the dates of his engagement, I found that he had +supposed he was free (in consequence of not having heard from me earlier), and had +engaged himself to a Mr. B—— from the 27th of June. I endeavoured to hold him +to his promise, but he considered himself unable to withdraw from his later obligation. +His letters were honourable to him. The following extract from the last one +he wrote to me is given as an interesting souvenir of a brave and upright man:— +</p><anchor id="fig59"/> +<figure url="images/illus247.png" rend="w100"> +<figDesc>Illustration: Facsimile of a letter from Croz</figDesc></figure></note></p> + <pb n='209'/><anchor id='Pg209'/> +<p> +On June 15 we went, from Turtman to Z’meiden, and thence +over the Forcletta pass to Zinal. We diverged from the summit +of the pass up some neighbouring heights to inspect the Grand +Cornier, and I decided to have nothing to do with its northern +side. It seemed quite safe to pronounce it inaccessible from that +direction, although it was more than seven miles away. +</p> + +<p> +On the 16th we left Zinal at 2.5 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi>, having been for a +moment greatly surprised by an entry in the hotel-book,<note place="foot">It was an entry describing an ascent of the Grand Cornier (which we supposed +had never been ascended) from the very direction which we had just pronounced to +be hopeless! It was especially startling, because Franz Biener was spoken of in the +account as having been concerned in the ascent. On examining Biener it was found +that he had made the excursion, and had supposed at the time he was upon his summit +that it was the Grand Cornier. He saw afterwards that they had only ascended +one of the several points upon the ridge running northwards from the Grand Cornier—I +believe, the Pigne de l’Allée (11,168 feet)!</note> and +ascending by the Zinal glacier, and giving the base of our mountain +a wide berth in order that it might be better examined, +passed gradually right round to its south, before a way up it was +seen.<note place="foot">For route, see the <ref target="map2">map of the Valley of Zermatt</ref>.</note> At 8.30 we arrived upon the plateau of the glacier that +descends towards the east, between the Grand Cornier and the +Dent Blanche, and from this place a route was readily traced. +We steered to the north (as shown upon the <ref target="map2">map</ref>) over the glacier, +towards the ridge that descends to the east; gained it by mounting +snow-slopes, and followed it to the summit, which was arrived +at before half-past twelve. From first to last the route was almost +entirely over snow. +</p> + +<p> +The ridges leading to the north and to the south from the +summit of the Grand Cornier, exhibited in a most striking manner +the extraordinary effects that may be produced by violent alternations +of heat and cold. The southern one was hacked and split +into the wildest forms; and the northern one was not less cleft +and impracticable, and offered the droll piece of rock-carving +which is represented upon <ref target="fig61">page 211</ref>. Some small blocks actually +<pb n='210'/><anchor id='Pg210'/>tottered and fell before our eyes, and, starting others in their +downward course, grew into a perfect avalanche, which descended +with a solemn roar on to the glaciers beneath. +</p><anchor id="fig60"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: PART OF THE SOUTHERN RIDGE OF THE GRAND CORNIER.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus249.png" rend="w80"> + <head rend="ill">PART OF THE SOUTHERN RIDGE OF THE GRAND CORNIER.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: Part of the Southern ridge of the Grand Cornier</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +It is natural that the great ridges should present the wildest +forms—not on account of their dimensions, but by reason of their +positions. They are exposed to the fiercest heat of the sun, and +are seldom in shadow as long as it is above the horizon. They are +entirely unprotected, and are attacked by the strongest blasts and +by the most intense cold. The most durable rocks are not proof +against such assaults. These grand, apparently solid—eternal—mountains, +seeming so firm, so immutable, are yet ever changing +and crumbling into dust. These shattered ridges are evidence +of their sufferings. Let me repeat that every principal ridge of +every great peak in the Alps amongst those I have seen has been +<pb n='211'/><anchor id='Pg211'/>shattered in this way; and that every summit, amongst the rock-summits +upon which I have stood, has been nothing but a piled-up +heap of fragments. +</p> + +<p> +The minor ridges do not usually present such extraordinary +forms as the principal ones. They are less exposed, and they are +less broken up; and it is reasonable to assume +that their annual degradation is less than that +of the summit-ridges. +</p> + +<p> +The wear and tear does not cease even in +winter, for these great ridges are +never completely covered up by +snow,<note place="foot"><p> +I wrote in the <hi rend='italic'>Athenæum</hi>, August 29, 1863, to the same effect. <q>This action +of the frost does not cease in winter, inasmuch as it is impossible for the Matterhorn +to be entirely covered by snow. Less precipitous mountains may be entirely covered +up during winter, and if they do not then actually gain height, the wear and tear is, +at least, suspended.... We arrive, therefore, at the conclusion that, although +such snow-peaks as Mont Blanc <hi rend='italic'>may</hi> in the course of ages grow higher, the Matterhorn +must decrease in height.</q> These remarks have received confirmation. +</p> + +<p> +The men who were left by M. Dollfus-Ausset in his observatory upon the summit +of the Col Théodule, during the winter of 1865, remarked that the snow was partially +melted upon the rocks in their vicinity upon 19th, 20th, 21st, 22d, 23d, 26th, 27th +December of that year, and upon the 22d of December they entered in their Journal, +<q><hi rend='italic'>Nous avons vu au Matterhorn que la neige se fondait sur roches et qu’il s’en écoulait +de l’eau.</hi></q>—<hi rend='italic'>Matériaux pour l’étude des Glaciers</hi>, vol. viii. part i. p. 246, 1868; and +vol. viii. part ii. p. 77, 1869. +</p></note> and the sun has +still power. The destruction +is incessant, and +increases as time goes +on; for the greater the +surfaces which are exposed +to the practically +inexhaustible powers of sun and frost, the greater ruin will be +effected. +</p><anchor id="fig61"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: PART OF THE NORTHERN RIDGE OF THE GRAND CORNIER.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus250.png" rend="w60"> + <head rend="ill">PART OF THE NORTHERN RIDGE OF THE GRAND CORNIER.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: Part of the Northern ridge of the Grand Cornier</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +The rock-falls which are continually occurring upon all rock +mountains (such as are referred to upon pp. <ref target="Pg029">29</ref>, <ref target="Pg055">55</ref>) are, of course, +<pb n='212'/><anchor id='Pg212'/>caused by these powers. No one doubts it; but one never believes +it so thoroughly as when the quarries are seen from which their +materials have been hewn; and when the germs, so to speak, of +these avalanches have been seen actually starting from above. +</p> + +<p> +These falls of rock take place from two causes. First, from the +heat of the sun detaching small stones or rocks which have been +arrested on ledges or slopes and bound together by snow or ice. I +have seen such released many times when the sun has risen high; +fall gently at first, gather strength, grow in volume, and at last +rush down with a cloud trailing behind, like the dust after an +express train. Secondly, from the freezing of the water which +trickles, during the day, into the clefts, fissures, and crannies. +This agency is naturally most active in the night, and then, or +during very cold weather, the greatest falls take place.<note place="foot">In each of the seven nights I passed upon the south-west ridge of the Matterhorn +in 1861-3 (at heights varying from 11,844 to 12,992 feet above the level of the +sea), the rocks fell incessantly in showers and avalanches. See <ref target="Pg120">p. 120</ref>.</note> +</p> + +<p> +When one has continually seen and heard these falls, it is easily +understood why the glaciers are laden with moraines. The wonder +is, not that they are sometimes so great, but that they are not +always greater. Irrespective of lithological considerations, one +knows that this débris cannot have been excavated <hi rend='italic'>by</hi> the glaciers. +The moraines are <hi rend='italic'>borne</hi> by glaciers, but they are <hi rend='italic'>born</hi> from the +ridges. They are generated by the sun, and delivered by the frost. +<q>Fire,</q> it is well said in Plutarch’s life of Camillus, <q>is the most +active thing in nature, and all generation is motion, or at least, +with motion; all other parts of matter without warmth lie sluggish +and dead, and crave the influence of heat as their life, and when +that comes upon them, they immediately acquire some active or +passive qualities.</q><note place="foot">Tonson’s Ed. of 1758. Bacon may have had this passage in mind when he +wrote, <q>It must not be thought that heat generates motion, or motion heat (though +in some respects this be true), but that the very essence of heat, or the substantial +self of heat, is motion and nothing else.</q>—<hi rend='italic'>Novum Organum</hi>, book ii. Devey’s +Translation.</note> +</p> + +<pb n='213'/><anchor id='Pg213'/> + +<p> +If the Alps were granted a perfectly invariable temperature, if +they were no longer subjected, alternately, to freezing blasts and +to scorching heat, they might more correctly be termed <q>eternal.</q> +They might still continue to decay, but their abasement would be +much less rapid. +</p> + +<p> +When rocks are covered up by a sheet of glacier they do enjoy +an almost invariable temperature. The extremes of summer and +winter are unknown to rocks which are so covered up,—a range of +a very few degrees is the most that is possible underneath the ice.<note place="foot">Doubtless, <hi rend='italic'>at the sides</hi> of glacier beds, the range of temperature is greater. But +there is evidence that the winter cold does not penetrate to the innermost recesses of +glacier-beds in the fact that streams continue to flow underneath the ice all the year +round, winter as well as summer, in the Alps and (I was informed in Greenland) in +Greenland. Experimental proof can be readily obtained that even in midsummer +the bottom temperature is close to 32° Faht.</note> +There is, <hi rend='italic'>then</hi>, little or no disintegration from unequal expansion +and contraction. Frost, <hi rend='italic'>then</hi>, does not penetrate into the heart of +the rock, and cleave off vast masses. The rocks, <hi rend='italic'>then</hi>, sustain +grinding instead of cleaving. Atoms, <hi rend='italic'>then</hi>, come away instead of +masses. Fissures and overhanging surfaces are bridged, for the +ice cannot get at them; and after many centuries of grinding +have been sustained, we still find numberless angular surfaces (in +the <hi rend='italic'>lee-sides</hi>) which were fashioned before the ice began to work. +</p> + +<p> +The points of difference which are so evident between the +operations of heat, cold, and water, and those of glaciers upon +rocks, are as follow. The former take advantage of cracks, fissures, +joints, and soft places; the latter do not. The former can work +<hi rend='italic'>underneath</hi> overhanging masses; the latter cannot. The effects +produced by the former continually <hi rend='italic'>increase</hi>, because they continually +expose fresh surfaces by forming new cracks, fissures, and +holes. The effects which the latter produce constantly <hi rend='italic'>diminish</hi>, +because the area of the surfaces operated upon becomes less and +less, as they become smoother and flatter. +</p> + +<p> +What can one conclude, then, but that sun, frost, and water, +<pb n='214'/><anchor id='Pg214'/>have had infinitely more to do than glaciers with the fashioning of +mountain-forms and valley-slopes? Who can refuse to believe +that powers which are at work everywhere, which have been at +work always, which are so incomparably active, capable, and enduring, +must have produced greater effects than a solitary power +which is always local in its influence, which has worked, <hi rend='italic'>comparatively</hi>, +but for a short time, which is always slow and feeble in its +operations, and which constantly diminishes in intensity? +</p> + +<p> +Yet there are some who refuse to believe that sun, frost, and +water have played an important part in modelling the Alps, and +hold it as an article of their faith that the Alpine region <q>owes its +present conformation mainly to the action of its ancient glaciers</q>!<note place="foot">Professor Tyndall <q>On the Conformation of the Alps,</q> <hi rend='italic'>Phil. Mag.</hi>, Sept. 1862.</note> +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +My reverie was interrupted by Croz observing that it was time +to be off. Less than two hours sufficed to take us to the glacier +plateau below (where we had left our baggage); three quarters of +an hour more placed us upon the depression between the Grand +Cornier and the Dent Blanche (Col du Grand Cornier<note place="foot">This had been crossed, for the first time, a few months before.</note>), and at +6 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> we arrived at Abricolla. Croz and Biener hankered after +milk, and descended to a village lower down the valley; but +Almer and I stayed where we were, and passed a chilly night +on some planks in a half-burnt chalet.<note place="foot">The following details may interest mountain-climbers. Left Zinal (5505 feet) +2.5 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> Thence to plateau S.E. of summit of Grand Cornier, 5 h. 25 min. From +the plateau to the summit of the mountain, 2½ hours. The last 300 feet of the ridge +followed were exceedingly sharp and narrow, with a great cornice, from which huge +icicles depended. We were obliged to go <hi rend='italic'>underneath</hi> the cornice, and to cut a way +through the icicles. Descent from summit to plateau, 1 h. 40 min. Sharp snow-storm, +with thunder. Plateau to summit of Col du Grand Cornier (rocks easy), +45 min. From the summit of the Col to the end of glacier leading to the west, 55 min. +Thence to Abricolla (7959), 15 min.</note> +</p> +</div><div type="chapter" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='215'/><anchor id='Pg215'/> +<index index="toc" level1="Chapter XIII. The ascent of the Dent Blanche"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Chapter XIII. The ascent of the Dent Blanche"/> +<head>CHAPTER XIII.</head> + +<head type="sub">THE ASCENT OF THE DENT BLANCHE.</head> + +<epigraph><lg> +<l><q rend="post: none">God help thee, Trav’ller, on thy journey far;</q></l> +<l rend='margin-left: 4'>The wind is bitter keen,—the snow o’erlays</l> +<l rend='margin-left: 4'>The hidden pits, and dang’rous hollow-ways,</l> +<l>And darkness will involve thee.—No kind star</l> +<l><q rend="pre: none">To-night will guide thee.</q>...</l> +<l rend="text-align: right"><hi rend='smallcaps'>H. Kirke White.</hi></l> +</lg></epigraph> + +<p> +Croz and Biener did not return until past 5 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> on June 17, and +we then set out at once for Zermatt, intending to cross the Col +d’Hérens. But we did not proceed far before the attractions of +the Dent Blanche were felt to be irresistible, and we turned +aside up the steep lateral glacier which descends along its south-western +face. +</p> + +<p> +The Dent Blanche is a mountain that is little known except to +the climbing fraternity. It was, and is, reputed +to be one of the most difficult mountains in the +Alps. Many attempts were made to scale it +before its ascent was accomplished. Even Leslie +Stephen himself, fleetest of foot of the whole +Alpine brotherhood, once upon a time returned +discomfited from it. +</p><anchor id="fig62"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: LESLIE STEPHEN.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus254.png" rend="w40"><head rend="ill">LESLIE STEPHEN.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: Portrait of Leslie Stephen</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +It was not climbed until 1862; but in that +year Mr. T. S. Kennedy, with Mr. Wigram, and +the guides Jean B. Croz<note place="foot">The brother of my guide Michel Croz.</note> and Kronig, managed +to conquer it. They had a hard fight though before they gained +<pb n='216'/><anchor id='Pg216'/>the victory; a furious wind and driving snow, added to the +natural difficulties, nearly turned the scale against them.<note place="foot">See <ref target="notepg070">note to p. 70</ref>.</note> +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Kennedy started from Abricolla between 2 and 3 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> on +July 18, 1862, and ascending the glacier that is mentioned in the +opening paragraph, went towards the point marked 3912 mètres +upon the <ref target="map2">map</ref>;<note place="foot">See <ref target="map2">map of the Valley of Zermatt</ref>.</note> then turned to the left (that is, to the north), +and completed the ascent by the southern ridge—that which +overhangs the western side of the Schönbühl glacier. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Kennedy described his expedition in a very interesting +paper in the <hi rend='italic'>Alpine Journal</hi>. His account bore the impress of +truth; yet unbelievers said that it was impossible to have told (in +weather such as was experienced) whether the summit had actually +been attained, and sometimes roundly asserted that the mountain, +as the saying is, still remained virgin. +</p> + +<p> +I did not share these doubts, although they influenced me to +make the ascent. I thought it might be possible to find an easier +route than that taken by Mr. Kennedy, and that if we succeeded +in discovering one we should be able at once to refute his traducers, +and to vaunt our superior wisdom. Actuated by these +elevated motives, I halted my little army at the foot of the +glacier, and inquired, <q>Which is best for us to do?—to ascend +the Dent Blanche, or to cross to Zermatt?</q> They answered, +with befitting solemnity, <q>We think Dent Blanche is best.</q> +</p> + +<p> +From the chalets of Abricolla the south-west face of the Dent +Blanche is regarded almost exactly in profile. From thence it is +seen that the angle of the face scarcely exceeds thirty degrees, and +after observing this I concluded that the face would, in all probability, +give an easier path to the summit than the crest of the +very jagged ridge which was followed by Mr. Kennedy. +</p> + +<p> +We zigzagged up the glacier along the foot of the face, and +looked for a way on to it. We looked for some time in vain, for a +mighty <hi rend='italic'>bergschrund</hi> effectually prevented approach, and, like a +fortress’ moat, protected the wall from assault. We went up and +<pb n='217'/><anchor id='Pg217'/>up, until, I suppose, we were not more than a thousand feet below +the point marked 3912 mètres; then a bridge was discovered, and +we dropped down on hands and knees to cross it. +</p><anchor id="fig63"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE BERGSCHRUND ON THE DENT BLANCHE IN 1865]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus256.jpg" rend="w100"> + <head rend="ill">THE BERGSCHRUND ON THE DENT BLANCHE IN 1865</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: The bergschrund on the Dent Blanche in 1865</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +A bergschrund, it was said on <ref target="Pg182">p. 182</ref>, is a schrund, and something +more than a schrund. A schrund is simply a big crevasse. +<pb n='218'/><anchor id='Pg218'/>A bergschrund is frequently, although not always, a big crevasse. +The term is applied to the last of the crevasses that one finds, in +ascending, before quitting the glacier, and taking to the rocks +which bound it. It is the mountains’ schrund. Sometimes it is +<hi rend='italic'>very</hi> large, but early in the season (that is to say in the month of +June or before) bergschrunds are usually snowed up, or well +bridged over, and do not give much trouble. Later in the year, +say in August, they are frequently very great hindrances, and +occasionally are completely impassable. +</p> + +<p> +They are lines of rupture consequent upon unequal motion. +The glaciers below move quicker than the snow or ice which clings +immediately to the mountains; hence these fissures result. The +slower motion of that which is above can only be attributed to its +having to sustain greater friction; for the rule is that the upper +portion is set at a steeper angle than the lower. As that is the +case, we should expect that the upper portion would move <hi rend='italic'>quicker</hi> +than the lower, and it would do so, doubtless, but for the retardation +of the rocks over which, and through which, it passes.<note place="foot">Couloirs are invariably protected at their bases by bergschrunds. An example +of a couloir with a double bergschrund is given on p. 169.</note> +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +We crossed the bergschrund of the Dent Blanche, I suppose, +at a height of about 12,000 feet above the level of the sea. Our +work may be said to have commenced at that point. The face, +although not steep in its general inclination, was so cut up by +little ridges and cliffs, and so seamed with incipient couloirs, that +it had all the difficulty of a much more precipitous slope. The +difficulties were never great, but they were numerous, and made +a very respectable total when put together. We passed the bergschrund +soon after nine in the morning, and during the next +eleven hours halted only five-and-forty minutes. The whole of +the remainder of the time was occupied in ascending and descending +the 2400 feet which compose this south-western face; and +inasmuch as 1000 feet per hour (taking the mean of ascent and +<pb n='219'/><anchor id='Pg219'/>descent) is an ordinary rate of progression, it is tolerably certain +that the Dent Blanche is a mountain of exceptional difficulty. +</p> + +<p> +The hindrances opposed to us by the mountain itself were, +however, as nothing compared with the atmospheric obstructions. +It is true there was plenty of, <q>Are you fast, Almer?</q> <q>Yes.</q> +<q>Go ahead, Biener.</q> Biener, made secure, cried, <q>Come on, sir,</q> +and <hi rend='italic'>Monsieur</hi> endeavoured. <q>No, no,</q> said Almer, <q>not there,—<hi rend='italic'>here</hi>,</q>—pointing +with his bâton to the right place to clutch. Then +’twas Croz’s turn, and we all drew in the rope as the great man +followed. <q>Forwards</q> once more—and so on. +</p> + +<p> +Five hundred feet of this kind of work had been accomplished +when we were saluted (not entirely unexpectedly) by the first gust +of a hurricane which was raging above. The day was a lovely one +for dwellers in the valleys, but we had, long ago, noted some light, +gossamer clouds, that were hovering round our summit, being +drawn out in a suspicious manner into long, silky threads. Croz, +indeed, prophesied before we had crossed the schrund, that we +should be beaten by the wind, and had advised that we should +return. But I had retorted, <q>No, my good Croz, you said just +now <q>Dent Blanche is best</q>; we must go up the Dent Blanche.</q> +</p> + +<p> +I have a very lively and disagreeable recollection of this wind. +Upon the outskirts of the disturbed region it was only felt occasionally. +It then seemed to make rushes at one particular man, and +when it had discomfited him, it whisked itself away to some far-off +spot, only to return, presently, in greater force than before. +</p> + +<p> +My old enemy—the Matterhorn—seen across the basin of the +Z’Muttgletscher, looked totally unassailable. <q>Do you think,</q> the +men asked, <q>that you, or any one else, will ever get up <hi rend='italic'>that</hi> +mountain?</q> And when, undismayed by their ridicule, I stoutly +answered, <q>Yes, but not upon that side,</q> they burst into derisive +chuckles. I must confess that my hopes sank; for nothing can +look more completely inaccessible than the Matterhorn on its +northern and north-west sides. +</p> + +<pb n='220'/><anchor id='Pg220'/> + +<p> +<q>Forwards</q> once again. We overtopped the Dent d’Hérens. +<q>Not a thousand feet more; in three hours we shall be on the +summit.</q> <q>You mean <hi rend='italic'>ten</hi>,</q> echoed Croz, so slow had been the +progress. But I was not far wrong in the estimate. At 3.15 we +struck the great ridge followed by Mr. Kennedy, close to the top of +the mountain. The wind and cold were terrible there. Progress +was oftentimes impossible, and we waited, crouching under the lee +of rocks, listening to <q>the shrieking of the mindless wind,</q> while +the blasts swept across, tearing off the upper snow and blowing +it away in streamers over the Schönbühl glacier—<q>nothing seen +except an indescribable writhing in the air, like the wind made +visible.</q> +</p> + +<p> +Our goal was concealed by mist, although it was only a few +yards away, and Croz’s prophecy, that we should stay all night +upon the summit, seemed likely to come true. The men rose with +the occasion, although even <hi rend='italic'>their</hi> fingers had nearly lost sensation. +There were no murmurings, nor suggestions of return, and they +pressed on for the little white cone which they knew must be +near at hand. Stopped again; a big mass perched loosely on the +ridge barred the way; we could not crawl over, and scarcely dared +creep round it. The wine went round for the last time. The +liquor was half-frozen,—still we would more of it. It was all +gone; the bottle was left behind, and we pushed on, for there +was a lull. +</p> + +<p> +The end came almost before it was expected. The clouds +opened, and I saw that we were all but upon the highest point, +and that, between us and it, about twenty yards off, there was a +little artificial pile of stones. Kennedy was a true man,—it was a +cairn which he had erected. <q>What is that, Croz?</q> <q><hi rend='italic'>Homme des +pierres</hi>,</q> he bawled. It was needless to proceed farther; I jerked +the rope from Biener, and motioned that we should go back. He +did the same to Almer, and we turned immediately. <hi rend='italic'>They</hi> did not +see the stones (they were cutting footsteps), and misinterpreted +<pb n='221'/><anchor id='Pg221'/>the reason of the retreat. Voices were inaudible, and explanations +impossible.<note place="foot">The summit of the Dent Blanche is a ridge, perhaps one hundred yards in +length. The highest point is usually at its north-eastern end. Several ascents +besides those made by Mr. Kennedy and the author have been made in late years; +but, as yet, no one seems to have discovered an easy route up the mountain.</note> +</p> + +<p> +We commenced the descent of the face. It was hideous work. +The men looked like impersonations of Winter, with their hair all +frosted, and their beards matted with ice. My hands were numbed—dead. +I begged the others to stop. <q><hi rend='italic'>We cannot afford to stop; +we must continue to move</hi>,</q> was their reply. They were right; to +stop was to be entirely frozen. So we went down; gripping rocks +varnished with ice, which pulled the skin from the fingers. Gloves +were useless; they became iced too, and the bâtons slid through +them as slippery as eels. The iron of the axes stuck to the fingers—it +felt red-hot; but it was useless to shrink, the rocks and the +axes had to be firmly grasped—no faltering would do here. +</p> + +<p> +We turned back at 4.12 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi>, and at 8.15 crossed the bergschrund +again, not having halted for a minute upon the entire +descent. During the last two hours it was windless, but time was +of such vital importance that we pressed on incessantly, and did +not stop until we were fairly upon the glacier. Then we took +stock of what remained of the tips of our fingers. There was not +much skin left; they were perfectly raw, and for weeks afterwards +I was reminded of the ascent of the Dent Blanche by the twinges +which I felt when I pulled on my boots. The others escaped with +some slight frost-bites; and, altogether, we had reason to congratulate +ourselves that we got off so lightly. The men complimented +me upon the descent, and I could do the same honestly to them. +If they had worked less vigorously, or harmoniously, we should +have been benighted upon the face, where there was not a single +spot upon which it was possible to sit; and if that had happened, +I do not think that one would have survived to tell the tale. +</p> + +<p> +We made the descent of the glacier in a mist, and of the +<pb n='222'/><anchor id='Pg222'/>moraine at its base, and of the slopes below, in total darkness, +and regained the chalets of Abricolla at 11.45 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> We had been +absent eighteen and a half hours, and out of that time had been +going not less than seventeen. That night we slept the sleep of +those who are thoroughly tired.<note place="foot">The ascent of the Dent Blanche is the hardest that I have made. There was +nothing upon it so difficult as the last 500 feet of the Pointe des Ecrins; but, on the +other hand, there was hardly a step upon it which was positively easy. The whole +of the face required actual climbing. There was, probably, very little difference +in difficulty between the route we took in 1865, and that followed by Mr. Kennedy +in 1862.</note> +</p> +<milestone unit="tb"/> +<anchor id="fig64"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: T. S. KENNEDY.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus261.png" rend="w60"><head rend="ill">T. S. KENNEDY.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: Portrait of T. S. Kennedy</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +Two days afterwards, when walking into Zermatt, whom should +we meet but Mr. Kennedy. <q>Hullo!</q> we said, <q>we have just seen +your cairn on the top of the Dent +Blanche.</q> <q>No, you haven’t,</q> he +answered, very positively. <q>What +do you mean?</q> <q>Why, that you +cannot have seen my cairn, because +I didn’t make one!</q> <q>Well, +but we saw <hi rend='italic'>a</hi> cairn.</q> <q>No doubt; +it was made by a man who went +up the mountain last year with +Lauener and Zurfluh,</q> <q>O-o-h,</q> +we said, rather disgusted at hearing +news when we expected to +communicate some, <q>O-o-h! good morning, Kennedy.</q> Before this +happened, we managed to lose our way upon the Col d’Hérens; +but an account of that must be reserved for the next chapter. +</p> + +</div><div type="chapter" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='223'/><anchor id='Pg223'/> +<index index="toc" level1="Chapter XIV. Lost on the Col d'Hérens"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Chapter XIV. Lost on the Col d'Herens"/> +<head>CHAPTER XIV.</head> + +<head type="sub">LOST ON THE COL D’HÉRENS.—MY SEVENTH ATTEMPT +TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN.</head> + +<epigraph><p> +<q>Oh! ye immortal gods, where in the world are we?</q><lb/><hi rend='smallcaps'>Cicero.</hi> +</p> +</epigraph> + +<p> +We should have started for Zermatt about 7 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> on the 18th, had +not Biener asked to be allowed to go to mass at Evolène, a village +about two and a half hours from Abricolla. He received permission, +on the condition that he returned not later than mid-day, +but he did not come back until 2.30 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi>, and we thereby got into +a pretty little mess. +</p> + +<p> +The pass which we were about to traverse to Zermatt—the Col +d’Hérens—is one of the few glacier-passes in this district which +have been known almost from time immemorial. It is frequently +crossed in the summer season, and is a very easy route, notwithstanding +that the summit of the pass is 11,417 feet above the +level of the sea.<note place="foot">See <ref target="map2">Map of the Valley of Zermatt</ref>. The route taken upon June 19 is alone +marked.</note> +</p> + +<p> +From Abricolla to the summit the way lies chiefly over the +flat Glacier de Ferpècle. The walk is of the most straightforward +kind. The glacier rises in gentle undulations; its crevasses are +small and easily avoided; and all you have to do, after once +getting upon the ice, is to proceed due south, in the most direct +manner possible. If you do so, in two hours you should be upon +the summit of the pass. +</p> + +<p> +We tied ourselves in line, of course, when we entered upon the +<pb n='224'/><anchor id='Pg224'/>glacier, and placed Biener to lead, as he had frequently crossed +the pass; supposing that his local knowledge might save us some +time upon the other side. We had proceeded, I believe, about +half-way up, when a little, thin cloud dropped down upon us from +above. It was so light and gauzy, that we did not for a moment +suppose it would become embarrassing, and hence I neglected to +note at the proper moment the course which we should steer,—that +is to say, to observe our precise situation, in regard to the +summit of the pass. +</p> + +<p> +For some little time Biener progressed steadily, making a +tolerably straight track; but at length he wavered, and deviated +sometimes to the right, and sometimes to the left. Croz rushed +forward directly he saw this, and taking the poor young man by +his shoulders gave him a good shaking, told him that he was an +imbecile, to untie himself at once, and to go to the rear. Biener +looked half-frightened, and obeyed without a murmur. Croz led +off briskly, and made a good straight track for a few minutes. +Then, it seemed to me, he began to move steadily round to the +left. I looked back, but the mist was now too thick to see our +traces, and so we continued to follow our leader. At last the others +(who were behind, and in a better position to judge) thought the +same as I did, and we pulled up Croz to deliver our opinion. He +took our criticism in good part, but when Biener opened his mouth +that was too much for him to stand, and he told the young man +again, <q><hi rend='italic'>You</hi> are imbecile; I bet you twenty francs to one that <hi rend='italic'>my</hi> +track is better than <hi rend='italic'>yours</hi>; twenty francs, now then, imbecile!</q> +</p> + +<p> +Almer went to the front. He commenced by returning in the +track for a hundred yards or so, and then started off at a tangent +from Croz’s curve. We kept this course for half-an-hour, and then +were certain that we were not on the right route, because the +snow became decidedly steep. We bore away more and more to +the right, to avoid this steep bank, but at last I rebelled, as we +had for some time been going almost south-west, which was +altogether the wrong direction. After a long discussion we +<pb n='225'/><anchor id='Pg225'/>returned some distance in our track, and then steered a little east +of south, but we continually met steep snow-slopes, and to avoid +them went right or left as the case might require. +</p> + +<p> +We were greatly puzzled, and could not in the least tell +whether we were too near the Dent Blanche or too close to the +Tête Blanche. The mists had thickened, and were now as dense as +a moderate London fog. There were no rocks or echoes to direct +us, and the guidance of the compass brought us invariably against +these steep snow-banks. The men were fairly beaten; they had +all had a try, or more than one, and at last gave it up as a bad job, +and asked what was to be done. It was 7.30 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> and only an hour +of daylight was left. We were beginning to feel used up, for we +had wandered about at tip-top speed for the last three hours and a +half, so I said, <q>This is my advice; let us turn in our track, and go +back as hard as ever we can, not quitting the track for an instant.</q> +They were well content, but just as we were starting off, the +clouds lifted a little, and we thought we saw the Col. It was then +to our right, and we went at it with a dash. Before we had gone +a hundred paces down came the mist again. We kept on nevertheless +for twenty minutes, and then, as darkness was perceptibly +coming on, and the snow was yet rising in front, we turned back, +and by running down the entire distance managed to get clear of +the Ferpècle glacier just as it became pitch dark. We arrived at +our cheerless chalet in due course, and went to bed supperless, +for our food was gone; all very sulky—not to say savage—agreeing +in nothing except in bullying Biener. +</p> + +<p> +At 7 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> on the 19th, we set out, for the third time, for the +Col d’Hérens. It was a fine day, and we gradually recovered our +tempers as we saw the follies which had been committed on the +previous evening. Biener’s wavering track was not so bad; but +Croz had swerved from the right route from the first, and had +traced a complete semicircle, so that when we stopped him we +were facing Abricolla—whence we had started. Almer had commenced +with great discretion; but he kept on too long, and crossed +<pb n='226'/><anchor id='Pg226'/>the proper route. When I stopped them (because we were going +south-west), we were a long way up the Tête Blanche! Our last +attempt was in the right direction; we were actually upon the +summit of the pass, and in another ten yards we should have commenced +to go down hill! It is needless to point out that if the +compass had been looked to at the proper moment—that is, immediately +the mist came down—we should have avoided all our +troubles. It was little use afterwards, except to tell us when we +were going <hi rend='italic'>wrong</hi>. We arrived at Zermatt in six and a half hours’ +walking from Abricolla, and Seller’s hospitable reception set us +all right again. +</p> +<p> +On the 20th we crossed the Théodule pass, and diverged +from its summit up the Théodulhorn (11,391) to examine a route +which I suggested for the ascent of the Matterhorn. Before +continuing an account of our proceedings, I must stop for a +minute to explain why this new route was proposed, in place of +that up the south-western ridge. +</p> + +<p> +The main peak of the Matterhorn may be divided into three +sections.<note place="foot">See Chap. III. <ref target="Pg044">pp. 44</ref>-5.</note> The first, facing the Z’Muttgletscher, looks completely +unassailable; the second, facing the east, seems inaccessibility +itself; whilst the third, facing Breil, does not look entirely +hopeless. It was from this last direction that all my previous +attempts were made. It was by the south-western ridge, it will be +remembered, that not only I, but Mr. Hawkins, Professor Tyndall, +and the chasseurs of Val Tournanche, essayed to climb the mountain. +Why then abandon a route which had been shown to be +feasible up to a certain point? +</p> + +<p> +I gave it up for four reasons. 1. On account of my growing +disinclination for arêtes, and preference for snow and rock-faces +(see <ref target="Pg204">Chap. XII.</ref>). 2. Because I was persuaded that meteorological +disturbances (by which we had been baffled several times) might +be expected to occur again and again<note place="foot">Subsequent experiences of others have strengthened this opinion.</note> (see Chaps. IV. and VI.). +<pb n='227'/><anchor id='Pg227'/>3. Because I found that the east face was a gross imposition—it +looked not far from perpendicular; while its angle was, in fact, +scarcely more than 40°. 4. Because I observed for myself that the +strata of the mountain dipped to the west-south-west. It is not +necessary to say anything more than has been already said upon the +first two of these four points, but upon the latter two a few words +are indispensable. Let us consider, first, why most persons receive +such an exaggerated impression of the steepness of the eastern face. +</p><anchor id="plate10"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE RIFFELBERG.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus267.jpg" rend="w100"> + <head rend="ill">THE MATTERHORN FROM THE RIFFELBERG.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: The Matterhorn from the Riffelberg</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +When one looks at the Matterhorn from Zermatt, the mountain +is regarded (nearly) from the north-east. The face that fronts the +east is consequently neither seen in profile nor in full front, but +almost half-way between the two; it looks, therefore, more steep +than it really is. The majority of those who visit Zermatt go up +to the Riffelberg, or to the Gornergrat, and from these places, +the mountain naturally looks still more precipitous, because its +eastern face (which is almost all that is seen of it) is viewed more +directly in front. From the Riffel hotel the slope seems to be set +at an angle of 70°. If the tourist continues to go southwards, and +crosses the Théodule pass, he gets, at one point, immediately in +front of the eastern face, which then seems to be absolutely perpendicular. +Comparatively few persons correct the erroneous impressions +they receive in these quarters by studying the face in +profile, and most go away with a very incorrect and exaggerated +idea of the precipitousness of this side of the mountain, because +they have considered the question from one point of view alone. +</p> + +<p> +Several years passed away before I shook myself clear of my +early and false impressions regarding the steepness of this side of +the Matterhorn. First of all, I noticed that there were places on +this eastern face where snow remained permanently all the year +round. I do not speak of snow in gullies, but of the considerable +slopes which are seen upon the accompanying engraving, about +half-way up the face. Such beds as these could not continue to +remain throughout the summer, unless the snow had been able to +accumulate in the winter in large masses; and snow cannot +accu<pb n='228'/><anchor id='Pg228'/>mulate and remain in large masses, in a situation such as this, at +angles much exceeding 45°.<note place="foot">I prefer to be on the safe side. My impression is that snow cannot accumulate +in large masses <hi rend='italic'>at</hi> 45°.</note> Hence I was bound to conclude that +the eastern face was many degrees removed from perpendicularity; +and, to be sure on this point, I went to the slopes between the +Z’Muttgletscher and the Matterhorngletscher, above the chalets of +Staffel, whence the face could be seen in profile. Its appearance +from this direction would be amazing to one who had seen it only +from the east. It looks so totally different from the apparently +sheer and perfectly unclimbable cliff one sees from the Riffelberg, +that it is hard to believe the two slopes are one and the same +thing. Its angle scarcely exceeds 40°. +</p> + +<p> +A great step was made when this was learnt. This knowledge +alone would not, however, have caused me to try an ascent +by the eastern face instead of by the south-west ridge. Forty +degrees may not seem a formidable inclination to the reader, nor +is it for only a small cliff. But it is very unusual to find so steep +a gradient maintained continuously as the general angle of a +great mountain-slope, and very few instances can be quoted from +the High Alps of such an angle being preserved over a rise of +3000 feet. +</p> + +<p> +I do not think that the steepness or the height of this cliff +would have deterred climbers from attempting to ascend it, if it +had not, in addition, looked so repulsively smooth. Men despaired +of finding anything to grasp. Now, some of the difficulties of the +south-west ridge came from the smoothness of the rocks, although +that ridge, even from a distance, seemed to be well broken up. +How much greater, then, might not have been the difficulty of +climbing a face which looked smooth and unbroken close at +hand? +</p> + +<p> +A more serious hindrance to mounting the south-west ridge is +found in the dip of its rocks to the west-south-west. The great +mass of the Matterhorn, it is now well ascertained, is composed of +<pb n='229'/><anchor id='Pg229'/>regularly stratified rocks,<note place="foot">Upon this subject I beg to refer the reader to the valuable note furnished by +Signor F. Giordano in the Appendix.</note> which rise towards the east. It has +been mentioned in the text, more than once, that the rocks on some +portions of the ridge leading from the Col du Lion to the summit +dip outwards, and that fractured edges overhang.<note place="foot">See <ref target="Pg056">pp. 56</ref> and <ref target="Pg073">73</ref>.</note> This is shown +in the illustrations facing <ref target="plate04">pp. 76</ref> and <ref target="plate06">84</ref>; and the annexed +diagram, Fig. 1, exhibits the same thing +still more clearly. It will be readily +understood that such an arrangement +is not favourable for climbers, and that +the degree of facility with which rocks +can be ascended that are so disposed, +must depend very much upon the frequency +or paucity of fissures and joints. +The rocks of the south-west ridge are +sufficiently provided with cracks, but if +it were otherwise, their texture and arrangement +would render them unassailable.<note place="foot">Weathered granite is an admirable rock to climb; its gritty texture giving +excellent hold to the nails in one’s boots. But upon such metamorphic schists as +compose the mass of the great peak of the Matterhorn, the texture of the rock itself +is of little or no value.</note> +</p><anchor id="fig65"/> +<figure url="images/illus270.png" rend="w60"> + <figDesc>Illustration: Diagrams to show dip of strata on the Matterhorn</figDesc></figure> +<p> +It is not possible to go a single time upon the rocks of the +south-west ridge, from the Col du Lion to the foot of the Great +Tower, without observing the prevalence of their outward dip, and +that their fractured edges have a tendency to overhang; nor can +one fail to notice that it is upon this account the débris, which +is rent off by frost, does not remain <hi rend='italic'>in situ</hi>, but pours down in +showers over the surrounding cliffs. Each day’s work, so to speak, +is cleared away; the ridge is swept clean; there is scarcely +anything seen but firm rock.<note place="foot">I refer here only to that portion of the ridge which is between the Col du Lion +and the Great Tower. The remarks would not apply to the rocks higher up (see +<ref target="Pg075">p. 75</ref>); higher still the rocks are firm again; yet higher (upon the <q>Shoulder</q>) +they are much disintegrated; and then, upon the final peak, they are again firm.</note> +</p> + +<pb n='230'/><anchor id='Pg230'/> + +<p> +The fact that the mountain is composed of a series of stratified +beds was pointed out long ago. De Saussure remarked it, and +recorded explicitly, in his <hi rend='italic'>Travels</hi> (§ 2243), that they <q>rose to the +north-east at an angle of about 45°.</q> Forbes noticed it also; and +gave it as his opinion that the beds were <q>less inclined, or +nearly horizontal.</q> He added, <q>De Saussure is no doubt correct.</q><note place="foot"><hi rend='italic'>Travels through the Alps</hi>, 2nd ed. p. 317.</note> +The truth, I think, lies between the two. +</p> + +<p> +I was acquainted with both of the above-quoted passages, but +did not turn the knowledge to any practical account until I re-observed +the same fact for myself. It was not until after my +repulse in 1863, that I referred the peculiar difficulties of the +south-west ridge to the dip of the strata; but when once persuaded +that structure and not texture was the real impediment, it was +reasonable to infer that the opposite side, that is to say the eastern +face, might be comparatively easy. In brief, that an arrangement +should be found like <ref target="fig65">Fig. 2</ref>, instead of like <ref target="fig65">Fig. 1</ref>. This trivial +deduction was the key to the ascent of the Matterhorn. +</p> + +<p> +The point was, Did the strata continue with a similar dip +throughout the mountain? If they did, then this great eastern +face, instead of being hopelessly impracticable, should be quite the +reverse.—In fact, it should be a great natural staircase, with steps +inclining inwards; and, if it were so, its smooth aspect might be +of no account, for the smallest steps, inclined in this fashion, +would afford good footing. +</p> + +<p> +They did so, as far as one could judge from a distance. When +snow fell in the summer time, it brought out long, terraced lines +upon the mountain; rudely parallel to each other; inclined in +the direction shown (approximately) upon the figures in the accompanying +plate; and the eastern face, on those occasions, was often +whitened almost completely over; while the other sides, with the +<pb n='231'/><anchor id='Pg231'/>exception of the powdered terraces, remained black—for the snow +could not rest upon them. +</p><anchor id="plate11"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE THEODULE PASS.]</p> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE NORTH-EAST.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus272a.png" rend="w100"> + <head rend="ill">THE MATTERHORN FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE THEODULE PASS.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: The Matterhorn from the summit of the Theodule Pass</figDesc></figure></p> + <p><figure url="images/illus272b.png" rend="w100"> + <head rend="ill">THE MATTERHORN FROM THE NORTH-EAST.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: The Matterhorn from the North-East</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p rend="display"> +THE SPACES BETWEEN THE PARALLEL RED LINES REPRESENT ON AN AVERAGE A VERTICAL HEIGHT OF ABOUT +60 FEET, BUT, ON ACCOUNT OF FORESHORTENING, THE HEIGHT BETWEEN THE UPPERMOST LINES IS SOMEWHAT +MORE THAN THIS AMOUNT. +</p> +<p> +The very outline of the mountain, too, confirmed the conjecture +that its structure would assist an ascent on the eastern face, +although it opposed one on all other sides. Look at any photograph +of the peak from the north-east (or, failing one, the <ref target="plate11">outline facing +page 230</ref>, which is carefully traced from one), and you will see +that upon the right-hand side (that facing the Z’Muttgletscher) +there is an incessant repetition of overhanging cliffs, and of slopes +all trending downwards; in short, that the character of the whole +of that side is similar to <ref target="fig65">Fig. 1, p. 229</ref>; and that upon the left +hand (or south-east) ridge, the forms, as far as they go, are suggestive +of the structure of <ref target="fig65">Fig. 2</ref>. There is no doubt that the +contours of the mountain, seen from this direction, have been +largely influenced by the direction of its beds. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +It was not, therefore, from a freak, that I invited Mr. Reilly +to join in an attack upon the eastern face, but from a gradually-acquired +conviction that it would prove to give the easiest path to +the summit; and, if we had not been obliged to part, the mountain +would, doubtless, have been ascended in 1864. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +My guides readily admitted that they had been greatly deceived +as to the steepness of the eastern face, when they were halted to +look at it in profile, as we came down the Z’Muttgletscher, on our +way to Zermatt; but they were far from being satisfied that it +would turn out to be easy to climb, and Almer and Biener expressed +themselves decidedly averse to making an attempt upon it. +I gave way temporarily before their evident reluctance, and we +made the ascent of the Théodulhorn to examine an alternative +route, which I expected would commend itself to them in preference +to the other, as a great part of it led over snow. +</p> + +<p> +There is an immense gully in the Matterhorn, which leads +up from the Glacier du Mont Cervin to a point high up on the +<pb n='232'/><anchor id='Pg232'/>south-eastern ridge.<note place="foot">Its position is shown by the letter F, on the right of the <ref target="fig32">outline, on p. 85</ref>. +See also <ref target="map1">Map of the Matterhorn and its Glaciers</ref>.</note> I proposed to ascend this to its head, and to +cross over the south-east ridge on to the eastern face. This would +have brought us on a level with the bottom of the great snow-slope +shown upon the centre of the eastern face in the engraving facing +<ref target="plate10">p. 227</ref>. This snow-slope was to be crossed diagonally, with the +view of arriving at the snow upon the north-east ridge, which is +shown upon the same engraving, about half-an-inch from the +summit. The remainder of the ascent was to be made by the +broken rocks, mixed with snow, upon the north side of the mountain. +Croz caught the idea immediately, and thought the plan +feasible; details were settled, and we descended to Breil. Luc +Meynet, the hunchback, was summoned, and expressed himself +delighted to resume his old vocation of tent-bearer; and Favre’s +kitchen was soon in commotion preparing three days’ rations, for +I intended to take that amount of time over the affair—to sleep +on the first night upon the rocks at the top of the gully; to make +a push for the summit, and to return to the tent on the second +day; and upon the third to come back to Breil. +</p> + +<p> +We started at 5.45 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> on June 21, and followed the route of +the Breuiljoch<note place="foot">See <ref target="Pg094">p. 94</ref>.</note> for three hours. We were then in full view of +our gully, and turned off at right angles for it. The closer we +approached, the more favourable did it look. There was a good +deal of snow in it, which was evidently at a small angle, and it +seemed as if one-third of the ascent, at least, would be a very +simple matter. Some suspicious marks in the snow at its base +suggested that it was not free from falling stones, and, as a measure +of precaution, we turned off on one side, worked up under cover of +the cliffs, and waited to see if anything should descend. Nothing +fell, so we proceeded up its right or northern side, sometimes +cutting steps up the snow and sometimes mounting by the rocks. +Shortly before 10 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> we arrived at a convenient place for a halt, +<pb n='233'/><anchor id='Pg233'/>and stopped to rest upon some rocks, immediately close to the +snow, which commanded an excellent view of the gully. +</p> + +<p> +While the men were unpacking the food I went to a little +promontory to examine our proposed route more narrowly, and to +admire our noble couloir, which led straight up into the heart of +the mountain for fully one thousand feet. It then bent towards +the north, and ran up to the crest of the south-eastern ridge. My +curiosity was piqued to know what was round this corner, and +whilst I was gazing up at it, and following with the eye the +exquisitely drawn curves which wandered down the snow in the +gully, all converging to a large rut in its centre, I saw a few little +stones skidding down. I consoled myself with thinking that they +would not interfere with us if we adhered to the side. But then a +larger one came down, a solitary fellow, rushing at the rate of sixty +miles an hour—and another—and another. I was unwilling to +raise the fears of the men unnecessarily, and said nothing to them. +They did not hear the stones. Almer was seated on a rock, carving +large slices from a leg of mutton, the others were chatting, and the +first intimation they had of danger was from a crash—a sudden +roar—which reverberated awfully amongst the cliffs, and, looking +up, they saw masses of rocks, boulders and stones, big and little, dart +round the corner eight hundred feet or so above us, fly with fearful +fury against the opposite cliffs, rebound from them against the +walls on our side, and descend; some ricochetting from side to +side in a frantic manner; some bounding down in leaps of a +hundred feet or more over the snow; and others trailing down in +a jumbled, confused mass, mixed with snow and ice, deepening +the grooves which, a moment before, had excited my admiration. +</p> + +<p> +The men looked wildly around for protection, and, dropping the +food, dashed under cover in all directions. The precious mutton +was pitched on one side, the wine-bag was let fall, and its contents +gushed out from the unclosed neck, whilst all four cowered under +defending rocks, endeavouring to make themselves as small as +possible. Let it not be supposed that their fright was +unreason<pb n='234'/><anchor id='Pg234'/>able, or that I was free from it. I took good care to make myself +safe, and went and cringed in a cleft until the storm had passed. +But their scramble to get under shelter was indescribably ludicrous. +Such a panic I have never witnessed, before or since, +upon a mountain-side.<note place="foot">See <ref target="plate01">Frontispiece</ref>.</note> +</p> + +<p> +This ricochet practice was a novelty to me. It arose, of course, +from the couloir being bent, and from the falling rocks having +acquired great pace before they passed the angle. In straight +gullies it will, probably, never be experienced. The rule is, as I +have already remarked, that falling stones keep down the centres +of gullies, and they are out of harm’s way if one follows the sides. +</p><anchor id="fig66"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: MY TENT-BEARER—THE HUNCHBACK.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus277.png" rend="w80"><head rend="ill">MY TENT-BEARER—THE HUNCHBACK.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: My tent-bearer—the hunchback</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +There would have been singularly little amusement, and very +great risk, in mounting this gully, and we turned our backs upon +it with perfect unanimity. The question then arose, <q>What is +to be done?</q> I suggested climbing the rocks above us, but this +was voted impossible. I thought the men were right, yet would +not give in without being assured of the fact, and clambered up to +<pb n='235'/><anchor id='Pg235'/>settle the question. In a few minutes I was brought to a halt. My +forces were scattered; the little hunchback alone was closely following +me—with a broad grin upon his face, and the tent upon his +shoulder; Croz, more behind, was still keeping an eye upon his +<hi rend='italic'>Monsieur</hi>; Almer, a hundred feet below, sat on a rock with his +face buried in his hands; Biener was nowhere, out of sight. <q>Come +down, come down,</q> shouted Croz; <q>it is useless,</q> and I turned at +length, convinced that it was even as he said. Thus my little plan +was knocked on the head, and we were thrown back upon the +original scheme. +</p> + +<p> +We at once made a straight track for Mr. Morshead’s Breuiljoch<note place="foot">See <ref target="notepg095">note to p. 95</ref>.</note> +(which was the most direct route to take in order to get to the +Hörnli, where we intended to sleep, preparatory to attacking the +eastern face), and arrived upon its summit at 12.30 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> We were +then unexpectedly checked. The pass, as one, had vanished! and +we found ourselves cut off from the Furggengletscher by a small +but precipitous wall of rock;—the glacier had shrunk so much +that descent was impracticable. During the last hour clouds had +been coming up from the south; they now surrounded us, and it +began to blow hard. The men clustered together, and advocated +leaving the mountain alone. Almer asked, with more point than +politeness, <q>Why don’t you try to go up a mountain which <hi rend='italic'>can</hi> be +ascended?</q> <q>It is impossible,</q> chimed in Biener. <q>Sir,</q> said +Croz, <q>if we cross to the other side we shall lose three days, and +very likely shall not succeed. You want to make ascents in the +chain of Mont Blanc, and I believe they can be made. But I +shall not be able to make them with you if I spend these days +here, for I must be at Chamounix on the 27th.</q> There was force +in what he said, and his words made me hesitate. I relied upon +his strong arms for some work which it was expected would be +unusually difficult. Snow began to fall; that settled the matter, +and I gave the word to retreat. We went back to Breil, and on +to the village of Val Tournanche, where we slept; and the next +<pb n='236'/><anchor id='Pg236'/>day proceeded to Chatillon, and thence up the Valley of Aosta to +Courmayeur. +</p> + +<p> +I cannot but regret that the counsels of the guides prevailed. +If Croz had not uttered his well-intentioned words, he might still +have been living. He parted from us at Chamounix at the appointed +time, but by a strange chance we met again at Zermatt three +weeks later, and two days afterwards he perished before my eyes +on the very mountain from which we turned away, at his advice, +on the 21st of June. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +On June 23 we mounted to the top of Mont Saxe, to scan the +Grandes Jorasses, with the view of ascending it. Five thousand +feet of glacier-covered precipices rose above us, and up all that +height we tracked a way to our satisfaction. Three thousand feet +more of glacier and forest-covered slopes lay beneath, and <hi rend='italic'>there</hi>, +there was only one point at which it was doubtful if we should +find a path. The glaciers were shrinking, and were surrounded +by bastions of rounded rock, far too polished to please the rough +mountaineer. We could not track a way across them. However, +at 4 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> the next day, under the dexterous leading of Michel Croz, +we passed the doubtful spot. Thence it was all plain sailing, and +at 1 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> we gained the summit. The weather was boisterous in the +upper regions, and storm-clouds driven before the wind, and wrecked +against our heights, enveloped us in misty spray, which danced +around and fled away, which cut us off from the material universe, +and caused us to be, as it were, suspended betwixt heaven and +earth, seeing both occasionally, but seeming to belong to neither. +</p> + +<p> +The mists lasted longer than my patience, and we descended +without having attained the object for which the ascent was made. +At first we followed the little ridge shown upon the <ref target="fig67">accompanying +engraving</ref>, leading from our summit towards the spectator, and +then took to the head of the corridor of glacier on its left, which in +the view is left perfectly white. The slopes were steep and covered +with new-fallen snow, flour-like and evil to tread upon. On the +<pb n='237'/><anchor id='Pg237'/>ascent we had reviled it, and had made our staircase with much +caution, knowing full well that the disturbance of its base would +bring down all that was above. In descending, the bolder spirits +counselled trusting to luck and a glissade; the cautious ones +advo<pb n='238'/><anchor id='Pg238'/>cated avoiding the slopes and crossing to the rocks on their farther +side. The advice of the latter prevailed, and we had half-traversed +the snow, to gain the ridge, when the crust slipped and we went +along with it. <q>Halt!</q> broke from all four, unanimously. The +axe-heads flew round as we started on this involuntary glissade. +It was useless, they slid over the underlying ice fruitlessly. <q>Halt!</q> +thundered Croz, as he dashed his weapon in again with superhuman +energy. No halt could be made, and we slid down slowly, but +with accelerating motion, driving up waves of snow in front, with +streams of the nasty stuff hissing all around. Luckily, the slope +eased off at one place, the leading men cleverly jumped aside out +of the moving snow, we others followed, and the young avalanche +which we had started, continuing to pour down, fell into a yawning +crevasse, and showed us where our grave would have been if we +had remained in its company five seconds longer. The whole affair +did not occupy half-a-minute. It was the solitary incident of a +long day, and at nightfall we re-entered the excellent house kept +by the courteous Bertolini, well satisfied that we had not met with +more incidents of a similar description.<note place="foot">The ascent of the Grandes Jorasses was made to obtain a view of the upper part +of the Aig. Verte, and upon that account the westernmost summit was selected in +preference to the highest one. Both summits are shown upon the <ref target="fig67">accompanying +engraving</ref>. That on the right is (as it appears to be) the highest. That upon its left +is the one which we ascended, and is about 100 feet lower than the other. A couple +of days after our ascent, Henri Grati, Julien Grange, Jos. Mar. Perrod, Alexis Clusaz, +and Daniel Gex (all of Courmayeur), followed our traces to the summit in order to +learn the way. As far as my observation extends, such things are seldom done by +money-grasping or spiritless guides, and I have much pleasure in being able to +mention their names. The highest point (13,799) was ascended on June 29-30, +1868, by Mr. Horace Walker, with the guides Melchior Anderegg, J. Jaun, and +Julien Grange.</note> +</p><anchor id="fig67"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE GRANDES JORASSES AND THE DOIRE TORRENT, FROM THE ITALIAN VAL FERRET.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus280.jpg" rend="w80"> + <head rend="ill">THE GRANDES JORASSES AND THE DOIRE TORRENT, FROM THE ITALIAN VAL FERRET.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: The Grandes Jorasses and the Doire Torrent, from the Italian Val Ferret</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +</div><div type="chapter" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='239'/><anchor id='Pg239'/> +<index index="toc" level1="Chapter XV. The first passage of the Col Dolent"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Chapter XV. The first passage of the Col Dolent"/> +<head>CHAPTER XV.</head> + +<head type="sub">THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DOLENT.</head> + +<epigraph><p> +<q>Men willingly believe what they wish.</q>—<hi rend='smallcaps'>Cæsar.</hi> +</p></epigraph> + +<p> +Freethinking mountaineers have been latterly in the habit of going +up one side of an Alp and coming down the other, and calling the +route a pass. In this confusion of ideas may be recognised the result +of the looseness of thought which arises from the absence of +technical education. The true believer abhors such heresies, and +observes with satisfaction that Providence oftentimes punishes the +offenders for their greediness by causing them to be benighted. +The faithful know that passes must be made <hi rend='italic'>between</hi> mountains, +and not over their tops. Their creed declares that between any +two mountains there <hi rend='italic'>must</hi> be a pass, and they believe that the end +for which big peaks were created—the office they are especially +designed to fulfil—is to point out the way one should go. This +is the true faith, and there is no other. +</p> + +<p> +We set out upon the 26th of June to endeavour to add one more +to the passes which are strictly orthodox. We hoped, rather than +expected, to discover a quicker route from Courmayeur to Chamounix +than the Col du Géant, which was the easiest, quickest, and +most direct pass known at the time across the main chain of Mont +Blanc.<note place="foot">The view of Mont Blanc from a gorge on the south of the Italian Val Ferret, +mid-way between the villages of La Vachey and Praz Sec, and about 3000 feet above +them, is, in my opinion, the finest which can be obtained of that mountain range +anywhere upon the Italian side.</note> The misgivings which I had as to the result caused us to +start at the unusual hour of 12.40 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> At 4.30 we passed the +chalets of Prè du Bar, and thence, for some distance, followed the +track which we had made upon the ascent of Mont Dolent, over the +<pb n='240'/><anchor id='Pg240'/>glacier of the same name (<ref target="Pg182">p. 182</ref>). At a quarter past 8 we +arrived at the head of the glacier, and at the foot of the only +steep gradient upon the whole of the ascent. +</p> + +<p> +It was the beau-ideal of a pass. There was a gap in the mountains, +with a big peak on each side (Mount Dolent and the Aig. de +Triolet). A narrow thread of snow led up to the lowest point +between those mountains, and the blue sky beyond said, Directly +you arrive here you will begin to go down. We addressed ourselves +to our task, and at 10.15 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> arrived at the top of the pass. +</p> + +<p> +Had things gone as they ought, within six hours more we should +have been at Chamounix. Upon the other side we knew that there +was a couloir in correspondence with that up which we had just +come. If it had been filled with snow all would have been well. +It turned out to be filled with ice. Croz, who led, passed over to +the other side, and reported that we should get down somehow, but +I knew from the sound of his axe how the somehow would be, and +settled myself to sketch, well assured that <hi rend='italic'>I</hi> should not be wanted +for an hour to come. What I saw is shown in the <ref target="fig68">engraving</ref>. A +sharp aiguille (nameless), perhaps the sharpest in the whole range, +backed on the left by the Aig. de Triolet; queer blocks of (probably) +protogine sticking out awkwardly through the snow; and a huge +cornice from which big icicles depended, that broke away occasionally +and went <sic>skiddling</sic> down the slope up which we had come. +Of the Argentière side I could not see anything. +</p> + +<p> +Croz was tied up with our good Manilla rope, and the whole 200 +feet were payed out gradually by Almer and Biener before he ceased +working. After two hours’ incessant toil, he was able to anchor +himself to the rock on his right. He then untied himself, the rope +was drawn in, Biener was attached to the end and went down to +join his comrade. There was then room enough for me to stand by +the side of Almer, and I got my first view of the other side. For +the first and only time in my life I looked down a slope more than +a thousand feet long, set at an angle of about 50°, which was a sheet +of ice from top to bottom. It was unbroken by rock or crag, and +<pb n='241'/><anchor id='Pg241'/>anything thrown down it sped away unarrested until the level of +the Glacier d’Argentière was reached. The entire basin of that noble +<pb n='242'/><anchor id='Pg242'/>glacier<note place="foot">The next generation may witness its extinction. The portion of it seen from +the village of Argentière was in 1869 at least one quarter less in width than it was +ten years earlier.</note> was spread out at our feet, and the ridge beyond, culminating +in the Aig. d’Argentière, was seen to the greatest advantage. +I confess, however, that I paid very little attention to the view, for +there was no time to indulge in such luxuries. I descended the +icy staircase and joined the others, and then we three drew in the +rope tenderly as Almer came down. His was not an enviable position, +but he descended with as much steadiness as if his whole life +had been passed on ice-slopes of 50°. The process was repeated; +Croz again going to the front, and availing himself very skilfully of +the rocks which projected from the cliff on our right. Our 200 feet +of rope again came to an end, and we again descended one by one. +From this point we were able to clamber down by the rocks alone +for about 300 feet. They then became sheer cliff, and we stopped +for dinner, about 2.30 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi>, at the last place upon which we could +sit. Four hours’ incessant work had brought us rather more than +half-way down the gully. We were now approaching, although we +were still high above, the schrunds at its base, and the guides made +out, in some way unknown to me, that Nature had perversely placed +the only snow-bridge across the topmost one towards the centre of +the gully. It was decided to cut diagonally across the gully to the +point where the snow-bridge was supposed to be. Almer and Biener +undertook the work, leaving Croz and myself firmly planted on +the rocks to pay out the rope to them as they advanced. +</p><anchor id="fig68"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE SUMMIT OF THE COL DOLENT.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus284.jpg" rend="w80"><head rend="ill">THE SUMMIT OF THE COL DOLENT.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: The summit of the Col Dolent</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +It is generally admitted that veritable ice-slopes (understanding +by ice something more than a crust of hard snow over soft snow) +are only rarely met with in the Alps. They are frequently spoken +of, but such as that to which I refer are <hi rend='italic'>very</hi> rarely seen, and still +more seldom traversed. It is, however, always possible that they +may be encountered, and on this account, if for no other, it is +necessary for men who go mountaineering to be armed with ice-axes, +and with good ones. The form is of more importance than +<pb n='243'/><anchor id='Pg243'/>might be supposed. Of course, if you intend to act as a simple +amateur, and let others do the work, and only follow in their steps, +it is not of much importance what kind of ice-axe you carry, so +long as its head does not fall off, or otherwise behave itself improperly.<note place="foot">This observation is not made without reason. I have seen the head of one tumble +off at a slight tap, in consequence of its handle having been perforated by an ingenious +but useless arrangement of nails.</note> +There is no better weapon for cutting steps in ice than +a common pick-axe, and the form of ice-axe which is now usually +employed by the best guides is very like a miniature pick. My +own axe is copied from Melchior Anderegg’s. It is of wrought iron, +with point and edge +steeled. Its weight, +including spiked +handle, is four +pounds. For cutting +steps in ice, +the pointed end of +the head is almost +exclusively employed; +the adze-end +is handy for +polishing them up, +but is principally +used for cutting in +hard snow. Apart +from its value as a +cutting weapon, it +is invaluable as a +grapnel. It is <anchor id="corr243"/><corr sic="naturrally">naturally</corr> +a rather awkward implement when it is not being employed +for its legitimate purpose, and is likely to give rise to much strong +language in crushes at railway termini, unless its head is protected +with a leathern cap, or in some other way. Many attempts have +<pb n='244'/><anchor id='Pg244'/>been made, for the sake of convenience, to fashion an ice-axe with +a movable head, but it seems difficult or impossible to produce one +except at the expense of cutting qualities, and by increasing the +weight. +</p><anchor id="fig69"/> <anchor id="fig70"/><anchor id="fig71"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: MY ICE-AXE.]</p> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: KENNEDY ICE-AXE.]</p> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE <q>LESLIE STEPHEN</q> AXE.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus286.png" rend="w80"><head rend="ill">MY ICE-AXE.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: My ice-axe</figDesc></figure></p> + <p><figure url="images/illus287a.png" rend="w80"><head rend="ill">KENNEDY ICE-AXE.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: Kennedy ice-axe</figDesc></figure></p> + <p><figure url="images/illus287b.png" rend="w60"><head rend="ill">THE <q>LESLIE STEPHEN</q> AXE.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: The Leslie Stephen ice-axe</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> + <p> +Mr. T. S. Kennedy (of the firm of Fairbairn & +Co.), whose practical acquaintance with mountaineering, +and with the use and manufacture of tools, +makes his opinion particularly valuable, has contrived +the best that I have seen; but even it seems +to me to be deficient in rigidity, and not to be so +powerful a weapon as the more common kind with +the fixed head. The simple instrument which is +shown in the annexed diagram is the invention of Mr. Leslie +Stephen, and it answers +the purposes for +which he devised it, +namely, for giving better +hold upon snow +and ice than can be +obtained from the common alpenstock, and for cutting an occasional +step. The amateur scarcely requires anything more imposing, +but for serious ice-work a heavier weapon is indispensable. +</p> + +<p> +To persons armed with the proper tools, ice-slopes are not so +dangerous as many places which appeal less to the imagination. +Their ascent or descent is necessarily laborious (to those who do the +work), and they may therefore be termed difficult. They <hi rend='italic'>ought</hi> not +to be dangerous. Yet they always seem dangerous, for one is profoundly +convinced that if he slips he will certainly go to the bottom. +Hence, any man, who is not a fool, takes particular care to preserve +his balance, and, in consequence, we have the noteworthy +<pb n='245'/><anchor id='Pg245'/>fact that accidents have seldom or never taken place upon ice-slopes. +</p> + +<p> +The same slopes covered with snow are much less impressive, +and <hi rend='italic'>may</hi> be much more dangerous. They may be less slippery, the +balance may be more easily preserved, and if one man slips he may +be stopped by his own personal efforts, provided the snow which +over-lies the ice is consolidated and of a reasonable depth. But if, +as is more likely to be the case upon an angle of 50° (or anything +approaching that angle), there is only a thin stratum of snow which +is not consolidated, the occurrence of a slip will most likely take +the entire party as low as possible, and in addition to the chance of +broken necks, there will be a strong probability that some, at least, +will be smothered by the dislodged snow. Such accidents are far +too common, and their occurrence, as a rule, may be traced to the +want of caution which is induced by the apparent absence of danger. +</p> + +<p> +I do not believe that the use of the rope, in the ordinary way, +affords the least <hi rend='italic'>real</hi> security upon ice-slopes. Nor do I think that +any benefit is derived from the employment of crampons. Mr. +Kennedy was good enough to present me with a pair some time +ago, and one of these has been +engraved. They are the best +variety I have seen of the +species, but I only feel comfortable +with them on my feet +in places where they are not +of the slightest use, that is in +situations where there is no +possibility of slipping, and would not wear them upon an ice-slope for +any consideration whatever. All such adventitious aids are useless +if you have not a good step in the ice to stand upon, and if you have +got that, nothing more is wanted except a few nails in the boots. +</p><anchor id="ill245"/><anchor id="fig72"/> +<figure url="images/illus288.png" rend="w60"> + <figDesc>Illustration: Crampon</figDesc> +</figure> +<p> +Almer and Biener got to the end of their tether; the rope no +longer assured their safety, and they stopped work as we advanced +and coiled it up. Shortly afterwards they struck a streak of snow +<pb n='246'/><anchor id='Pg246'/>that proved to be just above the bridge of which they were in +search. The slope steepened, and for thirty feet or so we descended +face to the wall, making steps by kicking with the toes, and thrusting +the arms well into the holes above, just as if they had been +rounds in a ladder. At this time we were crossing the uppermost +of the schrunds. Needless to say that the snow was of an admirable +quality; this performance would otherwise have been impossible. +It was soon over, and we then found ourselves upon a huge +rhomboidal mass of ice, and still separated from the Argentière +glacier by a gigantic crevasse. The only bridge over this lower +schrund was at its eastern end, and we were obliged to double back +to get to it. Cutting continued for half-an-hour after it was +passed, and it was 5.35 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> before the axes stopped work, and we +could at last turn back and look comfortably at the formidable +slope upon which seven hours had been spent.<note place="foot">I estimate its height at 1200 feet. The triangulation of Capt. Mieulet places +the summit of the pass 11,624 feet above the sea. This, I think, is rather too high.</note> +</p> + +<p> +The Col Dolent is not likely to compete with the Col du +Géant, and I would recommend any person who starts to cross it +to allow himself plenty of time, plenty of rope, and ample guide-power. +There is no difficulty whatever upon any part of the route, +excepting upon the steep slopes immediately below the summit on +each side. When we arrived upon the Glacier d’Argentière, our +work was as good as over. We drove a straight track to the chalets +of Lognan, and thence the way led over familiar ground. Soon +after dusk we got into the high road at les Tines, and at 10 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> +arrived at Chamounix. Our labours were duly rewarded. Houris +brought us champagne and the other drinks which are reserved +for the faithful, but before my share was consumed I fell asleep in +an arm-chair. I slept soundly until daybreak, and then turned +into bed and went to sleep again. +</p> +</div><div type="chapter" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='247'/><anchor id='Pg247'/> +<index index="toc" level1="Chapter XVI. The first ascent of the Aiguile Verte"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Chapter XVI. The first ascent of the Aiguile Verte"/> +<head>CHAPTER XVI.</head> + +<head type="sub">THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE VERTE.</head> + +<epigraph><lg> +<l><q rend="post: none">Few have the fortitude of soul to honour,</q></l> +<l><q rend="pre: none">A friend’s success, without a touch of envy.</q></l> +<l rend="text-align: right"><hi rend='smallcaps'>Æschylus.</hi></l> +</lg></epigraph> + +<p> +Michel Croz now parted from us. His new employer had not +arrived at Chamounix, but Croz considered that he was bound by +honour to wait for him, and thus Christian Almer, of Grindelwald, +became my leading guide. +</p> + +<p> +Almer displayed aptitude for mountaineering at an early age. +Whilst still a very young man he was known as a crack chamois-hunter, +and he soon developed into an accomplished guide. Those +who have read Mr. Wills’ graphic account of the first ascent of the +Wetterhorn<note place="foot"><hi rend='italic'>Wanderings among the High Alps</hi>, 1858.</note> will remember that, when his party was approaching +the top of the mountain, two stranger men were seen climbing by +a slightly different route, one of whom carried upon his back a +young fir-tree, branches, leaves, and all. Mr. Wills’ guides were +extremely indignant with these two strangers (who were evidently +determined to be the first at the summit), and talked of giving +them blows. Eventually they gave them a cake of chocolate +instead, and declared that they were good fellows. <q>Thus the +pipe of peace was smoked, and tranquillity reigned between the +rival forces.</q> Christian Almer was one of these two men. +</p> + +<p> +This was in 1854. In 1858-9 he made the first ascents of the +Eigher and the Mönch, the former with a Mr. Harrington (?), and +the latter with Dr. Porges. Since then he has wandered far and +<pb n='248'/><anchor id='Pg248'/>near, from Dauphiné to the Tyrol.<note place="foot">Most of his principal exploits are recorded in the publications of the Alpine Club.</note> With the exception of +Melchior Anderegg, there is not, perhaps, another guide of such +wide experience, or one who has been so invariably successful; +and his numerous employers concur in saying that there is not a +truer heart or a surer foot to be found amongst the Alps. +</p><anchor id="fig73"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: CHRISTIAN ALMER.<note place="foot">Engraved, by permission, from a photograph by Mr. E. Edwards.</note>]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus291.png" rend="w60"> + <head rend="ill">CHRISTIAN ALMER.<note place="foot">Engraved, by permission, from a photograph by Mr. E. Edwards.</note></head> + <figDesc>Illustration: Portrait of Christian Almer</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +Before recrossing the chain to Courmayeur, we ascended the +Aiguille Verte. In company with Mr. Reilly I inspected this +mountain from every direction in 1864, and came to the conclusion +that an ascent could more easily be made from the south than +upon any other side. We set out upon the 28th from Chamounix +to attack it, minus Croz, and plus a porter (of whom I will speak +more particularly presently), leaving our comrade very downcast +at having to kick his heels in idleness, whilst we were about to +scale the most celebrated of his native Aiguilles. +</p> + +<p> +Our course led us over the old Mer de Glace—the glacier made +famous by De Saussure and Forbes. The heat of the day was +<pb n='249'/><anchor id='Pg249'/>over, but the little rills and rivulets were still flowing along the +surface of the ice: cutting deep troughs where the gradients were +small; leaving ripple-marks where the water was with more difficulty +confined to one channel; and falling over the precipitous +walls of the great crevasses, sometimes in bounding cascades, and +sometimes in diffused streams, which marked the perpendicular +faces with graceful sinuosities.<note place="foot">Admirably rendered in the <ref target="fig74">accompanying drawing</ref> by Mr. Cyrus Johnson.</note> As night came on, their music +died away, the rivulets dwindled down to rills; the rills ceased to +murmur, and the sparkling drops, caught by the hand of frost, +were bound to the ice, coating it with an enamelled film which +lasted until the sun struck the glacier once more. +</p><anchor id="fig74"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: ON THE MER DE GLACE.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus292.png" rend="w80"><head rend="ill">ON THE MER DE GLACE.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: On the Mer de Glace</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<pb n='250'/><anchor id='Pg250'/> +<p> +We camped on the Couvercle (7800) under a great rock, and at +3.15 the next morning started for our aiguille, leaving the porter +in charge of the tent and of the food. Two hours’ walking over +crisp snow brought us up more than 4000 feet, and within about +1600 feet of the summit. From no other direction can it be +approached so closely with equal facility. Thence the mountain +steepens. After his late severe piece of ice-work, Almer had a +natural inclination for rocks; but the lower rocks of the final +peak of the Verte were not inviting, and he went on and on, +looking for a way up them, until we arrived in front of a great snow +couloir that led from the Glacier de Talèfre right up to the crest +of the ridge connecting the summit of the Verte with the mountain +called Les Droites. This was the route which I intended to be +taken; but Almer pointed out that the gully narrowed at the +lower part, and that, if stones fell, we should stand some chance +of getting our heads broken; and so we went on still more to the +east of the summit, to another and smaller couloir which ran up +side by side with the great one. At 5.30 we crossed the schrund +which protected the final peak, and, a few minutes afterwards, +saw the summit and the whole of the intervening route. <q>Oh! +Aiguille Verte,</q> said my guide, stopping as he said it, <q>you are +dead, you are dead;</q> which, being translated into plain English, +meant that he was cock-sure we should make its ascent. +</p> + +<p> +Almer is a quiet man at all times. When climbing he is +taciturn—and this is one of his great merits. A garrulous man +is always a nuisance, and upon the mountain-side he may be a +danger, for actual climbing requires a man’s whole attention. +Added to this, talkative men are hindrances; they are usually +thirsty, and a thirsty man is a drag. +</p> + +<p> +Guide-books recommend mountain-walkers to suck pebbles, to +prevent their throats from becoming parched. There is not much +goodness to be got out of the pebbles; but you cannot suck them +and keep the mouth open at the same time, and hence the throat +does not become dry. It answers just as well to keep the mouth +<pb n='251'/><anchor id='Pg251'/>shut, without any pebbles inside,—indeed, I think, better; for if +you have occasion to open your mouth, you can do so without +swallowing any pebbles.<note place="foot">I heard lately of two well-known mountaineers who, under the influence of +sudden alarm, <hi rend='italic'>swallowed their crystals</hi>. I am happy to say that they were able to +cough them up again.</note> As a rule, amateurs, and particularly +novices, <hi rend='italic'>will not</hi> keep their mouths shut. They attempt to <q>force +the pace,</q> they go faster than they can go without being compelled +to open their mouths to breathe, they pant, their throats and +tongues become parched, they drink and perspire copiously, and, +becoming exhausted, declare that the dryness of the air, or the +rarefaction of the air (everything is laid upon the air), is in fault. +On several accounts, therefore, a mountain-climber does well to +hold his tongue when he is at his work. +</p> + +<p> +At the top of the small gully we crossed over the intervening +rocks into the large one, and followed it so long as it was filled +with snow. At last ice replaced snow, and we turned over to the +rocks upon its left. Charming rocks they were; granitic in +texture,<note place="foot">Hand specimens of the highest rocks of the Aiguille Verte cannot be distinguished +from granite. The rock is almost identical in quality with that at the summit +of Mont Dolent, and is probably a granitöid gneiss.</note> gritty, holding the nails well. At 9.45 we parted from +them, and completed the ascent by a little ridge of snow which +descended in the direction of the Aiguille du Moine. At 10.15 we +stood on the summit (13,540), and devoured our bread and cheese +with a good appetite. +</p> + +<p> +I have already spoken of the disappointing nature of purely +panoramic views. That seen from Mont Blanc itself is notoriously +unsatisfactory. When you are upon that summit you look down +upon all the rest of Europe. There is nothing to look up to; all +is below; there is no one point for the eye to rest upon. The +man who is there is somewhat in the position of one who has +attained all that he desires,—he has nothing to aspire to; his +position must needs be unsatisfactory. Upon the summit of the +Verte there is not this objection. You see valleys, villages, fields; +<pb n='252'/><anchor id='Pg252'/>you see mountains interminable rolling away, lakes resting in +their hollows; you hear the tinkling of the sheep-bells as it rises +through the clear mountain air, and the roar of the avalanches as +they descend to the valleys: but above all there is the great white +dome, with its shining crest high above; with its sparkling glaciers +that descend between buttresses which support them: with its +brilliant snows, purer and yet purer the farther they are removed +from this unclean world.<note place="foot">The summit of the Aiguille Verte was a snowy dome, large enough for a +quadrille. I was surprised to see the great height of Les Droites. Captain Mieulet +places its summit at 13,222 feet, but I think it must be very slightly lower than the +Verte itself.</note> +</p> + +<p> +Even upon this mountain-top it was impossible to forget the +world, for some vile wretch came to the Jardin and made hideous +sounds by blowing through a horn. Whilst we were denouncing +him a change came over the weather; cumulous clouds gathered in +all directions, and we started off in hot haste. Snow began to fall +heavily before we were off the summit-rocks, our track was obscured +and frequently lost, and everything became so sloppy and slippery +that the descent took as long as the ascent. The schrund was recrossed +at 3.15 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi>, and thence we raced down to the Couvercle, +intending to have a carouse there; but as we rounded our rock a +howl broke simultaneously from all three of us, for the porter had +taken down the tent, and was in the act of moving off with it. +<q>Stop, there! what are you doing?</q> He observed that he had +thought we were killed, or at least lost, and was going to Chamounix +to communicate his ideas to the <hi rend='italic'>guide chef</hi>. <q>Unfasten the tent, +and get out the food.</q> Instead of doing so the porter fumbled in +his pockets. <q>Get out the food,</q> we roared, losing all patience. +<q>Here it is,</q> said our worthy friend, producing a dirty piece of +bread about as big as a halfpenny roll. We three looked solemnly +at the fluff-covered morsel. It was past a joke,—he had devoured +everything. Mutton, loaves, cheese, wine, eggs, sausages—all was +gone—past recovery. It was idle to grumble, and useless to wait. +We were light, and could move quickly,—the porter was laden +<pb n='253'/><anchor id='Pg253'/>inside and out. We went our hardest,—he had to shuffle and trot. +He streamed with perspiration; the mutton and cheese oozed out +in big drops,—he larded the glacier. We had our revenge, and +dried our clothes at the same time, but when we arrived at the +Montanvert the porter was as wet as we had been upon our arrival +at the Couvercle. We halted at the inn to get a little food, and at +a quarter past eight re-entered Chamounix, amidst firing of cannon +and other demonstrations of satisfaction on the part of the hotel-keepers. +</p> + +<p> +One would have thought that the ascent of this mountain, +which had been frequently assailed before without success, would +have afforded some gratification to a population whose chief +support is derived from tourists, and that the prospect of the +perennial flow of francs which might be expected to result from +it would have stifled the jealousy consequent on the success of +foreigners.<note place="foot">The Chamounix tariff price for the ascent of the Aiguille is now placed at £4 +<hi rend='italic'>per guide</hi>.</note> +</p> + +<p> +It was not so. Chamounix stood on its rights. A stranger +had ignored the <q>regulations,</q> had imported two foreign guides, +and, furthermore, he had added injury to that insult—he had not +taken a single Chamounix guide. Chamounix would be revenged! +It would bully the foreign guides; it would tell them they had +lied,—that they had not made the ascent! Where were their +proofs? Where was the flag upon the summit? +</p> + +<p> +Poor Almer and Biener were accordingly chivied from pillar to +post, from one inn to another, and at length complained to me. +Peter Perrn, the Zermatt guide, said on the night that we returned +that this was to happen, but the story seemed too absurd to be +true. I now bade my men go out again, and followed them +myself to see the sport. Chamounix was greatly excited. The +<hi rend='italic'>bureau</hi> of the <hi rend='italic'>guide chef</hi> was thronged with clamouring men. +Their ringleader—one Zacharie Cachat—a well-known guide, of +no particular merit, but not a bad fellow, was haranguing the +<pb n='254'/><anchor id='Pg254'/>multitude. He met with more than his match. My friend +Kennedy, who was on the spot, heard of the disturbance and +rushed into the fray, confronted the burly guide, and thrust back +his absurdities into his teeth. +</p> + +<p> +There were the materials for a very pretty riot; but they manage +these things better in France than we do, and the gensdarmes—three +strong—came down and dispersed the crowd. The guides +quailed before the cocked hats, and retired to cabarets to take little +glasses of absinthe and other liquors more or less injurious to the +human frame. Under the influence of these stimulants, they conceived +an idea which combined revenge with profit. <q>You have +ascended the Aiguille Verte, you say. <hi rend='italic'>We</hi> say we don’t believe it. +<hi rend='italic'>We</hi> say, do it again! Take three of us with you, and we will bet +you two thousand francs to one thousand, that you won’t make +the ascent!</q> +</p> + +<p> +This proposition was formally notified to me, but I declined it, +with thanks, and recommended Kennedy to go in and win. I +accepted, however, a hundred franc share in the bet, and calculated +upon getting two hundred per cent on my investment. Alas! +how vain are human expectations! Zacharie Cachat was put into +confinement, and although Kennedy actually ascended the Aiguille +a week later, with two Chamounix guides and Peter Perrn, the bet +came to nothing.<note place="foot">It should be said that we received the most polite apologies for this affair from +the chief of the gensdarmes, and an invitation to lodge a complaint against the ring-leaders. +We accepted his apologies, and declined his invitation. Needless to add, +Michel Croz took no part in the demonstration.</note> +</p> + +<p> +The weather arranged itself just as this storm in a teapot blew +over, and we left at once for the Montanvert, in order to show the +Chamouniards the easiest way over the chain of Mont Blanc, in +return for the civilities which we had received from them during +the past three days. +</p><pb n='255'/><anchor id='Pg255'/><anchor id="fig75"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: WESTERN SIDE OF THE COL DE TALÈFRE.]</p> + </then><else> + <p rend="page-break-before: always"><figure url="images/illus298.png" rend="w60"><head rend="ill">WESTERN SIDE OF THE COL DE TALÈFRE.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: Western side of the Col de Talèfre</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +</div><div type="chapter"> + + <index index="toc" level1="Chapter XVII. The first passage of the Col de Talèfre"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Chapter XVII. The first passage of the Col de Talefre"/> +<head>CHAPTER XVII.</head> + +<head type="sub">THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DE TALÈFRE.</head> + +<epigraph><lg> +<l> +<q>’Tis more by art than force of numerous strokes.</q> +</l> +<l rend="text-align: center"><hi rend='smallcaps'>Homer.</hi></l> +</lg></epigraph> + +<p> +The person who discovered the Col du Géant must have been a +shrewd mountaineer. The pass was in use before any other was +known across the main chain of Mont Blanc, and down to the +present time it remains the easiest and quickest route from Chamounix +to Courmayeur, with the single exception of the pass that +we crossed upon the 3d of July, for the first time, which lies +about mid-way between the Aiguille de Triolet and the Aiguille de +Talèfre, and which, for want of a better name, I have called the Col +de Talèfre. +</p> + +<p> +When one looks toward the upper end of the Glacier de Talèfre +from the direction of the Jardin or of the Couvercle, the ridge that +bounds the view seems to be of little elevation. It is overpowered +by the colossal Grandes Jorasses, and by the almost equally magnificent +Aiguille Verte. The ridge, notwithstanding, is by no means +despicable. At no point is its elevation less than 11,600 feet. It +<pb n='256'/><anchor id='Pg256'/>does not look anything like this height. The Glacier de Talèfre +mounts with a steady incline, and the eye is completely deceived. +</p> + +<p> +In 1864, when prowling about with Mr. Reilly, I instinctively +fixed upon a bent couloir which led up from the glacier to the +lowest part of the ridge; and when, after crossing the Col de +Triolet, I saw that the other side presented no particular difficulty, +it seemed to me that this was the <hi rend='italic'>one</hi> point in the whole of the +range which would afford an easier passage than the Col du Géant. +</p> + +<p> +We set out from the Montanvert at 4 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> upon July 3, to see +whether this opinion was correct, and it fortunately happened that +the Rev. A. G. Girdlestone and a friend, with two Chamounix +guides, left the inn at the same hour as ourselves, to cross the Col +du Géant. We kept in company as far as our routes lay together, +and at 9.35 we arrived at the top of our pass, having taken the +route to the south of the Jardin. Description is unnecessary, as +our track is laid down very clearly on the <ref target="fig75">engraving</ref> at the head +of this chapter. +</p> + +<p> +Much snow had fallen during the late bad weather, and as we +reposed upon the top of our pass (which was about 11,650 feet +above the level of the sea, and 600 feet above the Col du Géant), +we saw that the descent of the rocks which intervened between us +and the Glacier de Triolet would require some caution, for the sun’s +rays poured down directly upon them, and the snow slipped away +every now and then from ledge to ledge just as if it had been +water,—in cascades not large enough to be imposing, but sufficient +to knock us over if we got in their way. This little bit of cliff +consequently took a longer time than it should have done, for +when we heard the indescribable swishing, hissing sound which +announced a coming fall, we of necessity huddled under the lee of +the rocks until the snow ceased to shoot over us. +</p> + +<p> +We got to the level of the Glacier de Triolet without misadventure, +then steered for its left bank to avoid the upper of its two +formidable ice-falls, and after descending the requisite distance by +some old snow lying between the glacier and the cliffs which border +<pb n='257'/><anchor id='Pg257'/>it, crossed directly to the right bank over the level ice between the +two ice-falls.<note place="foot">Below the second ice-fall the glacier is completely covered up with moraine +matter, and if the <hi rend='italic'>left</hi> bank is followed, one is compelled either to traverse this +howling waste or to lose much time upon the tedious and somewhat difficult rocks of +Mont Rouge.</note> The right bank was gained without any trouble, +and we found there numerous beds of hard snow (avalanche débris) +down which we could run or glissade as fast as we liked. +</p> + +<p> +Glissading is a very pleasant employment when it is accomplished +successfully, and I have never seen a place where it can be +more safely indulged in than +the snowy valley on the right +bank of the Glacier de Triolet. +In my dreams I glissade delightfully, +but in practice I +find that somehow the snow +will not behave properly, and +that my alpenstock <hi rend='italic'>will</hi> get +between my legs. Then my +legs go where my head should +be, and I see the sky revolving +at a rapid pace; the snow rises +up and smites me, and runs +away; and when it is at last overtaken it suddenly stops, and we +come into violent collision. Those who are with me say that I +tumble head over heels, and there may be some truth in what they +say. Streaks of ice are apt to make the heels shoot away, and stray +stones cause one to pitch headlong down. Somehow these things +always seem to come in the way, so it is as well to glissade only +when there is something soft to tumble into.<note place="foot">In glissading an erect position should be maintained, and the point of the alpenstock +allowed to trail over the snow. If it is necessary to stop, or to slacken speed, +the point is pressed against the slope, as shown in the <ref target="fig76">illustration</ref>.</note> +</p> +<anchor id="fig76"/><figure url="images/illus300.png" rend="w60"> + <figDesc>Illustration: Glissading</figDesc> +</figure> +<p> +Near the termination of the glacier we could not avoid traversing +a portion of its abominable moraine, but at 1.30 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> we were +<pb n='258'/><anchor id='Pg258'/>clear of it, and threw ourselves upon some springy turf conscious +that our day’s work was over. An hour afterwards we resumed +the march, crossed the Doire torrent by a bridge a little below +Gruetta, and at five o’clock entered Courmayeur, having occupied +somewhat less than ten hours on the way. Mr. Girdlestone’s party +came in, I believe, about four hours afterwards, so there was no +doubt that we made a shorter pass than the Col du Géant; and I +believe we discovered a quicker way of getting from Chamounix to +Courmayeur, or <hi rend='italic'>vice versa</hi>, than will be found elsewhere, so long as +the chain of Mont Blanc remains in its present condition.<note place="foot"><p> +Comparison of the Col de Triolet with the Col de Talèfre will show what a great +difference in ease there may be between tracks which are nearly identical. For a distance +of several miles these routes are scarcely more than half-a-mile apart. Nearly +every step of the former is difficult, whilst the latter has no difficulty whatever. The +route we adopted over the Col de Talèfre may perhaps be improved. It may be possible +to go directly from the head of the Glacier de Triolet to its right bank, and, if +so, at least thirty minutes might be saved. +</p> + +<p> +The following is a list of the principal of the passes across the main ridge of +the range of Mont Blanc, with the years in which the first passages were effected, as +far as I know them:—1. Col de Trélatête (1864), between Aig. du Glacier and Aig. +de Trélatête. 2. Col de Miage, between Aig. de Miage and Aig. de Bionnassay. 3. +Col du Dôme (1865), over the Dôme du Goûter. 4. Col du Mont Blanc (1868), over +Mont Blanc. 5. Col de la Brenva (1865), between Mont Blanc and Mont Maudit. +6. Col de la Tour Ronde (1867), over la Tour Ronde. 7. Col du Géant, between la +Tour Ronde and Aigs. Marbrées. 8. Col des Grandes Jorasses (1873), between the +Grandes and Petites Jorasses. 9. Col de Leschaux (1877), between the Aig. de +l’Eboulement and the Aig. de Leschaux. 10. Col Pierre Joseph (1866), over Aig. +de l’Eboulement. 11. Col de Talèfre (1865), between Aigs. Talèfre and Triolet. +12. Col de Triolet (1864), between Aigs. Talèfre and Triolet. 13. Col Dolent (1865), +between Aig. de Triolet and Mont Dolent. 14. Col d’Argentière (1861), between +Mont Dolent and la Tour Noire. 15. Col de la Tour Noire (1863), between the +Tour Noire and the Aig. d’Argentière. 16. Col du Chardonnet (1863), between +Aigs. d’Argentière and Chardonnet. 17. Col du Tour, between Aigs. du Chardonnet +and Tour. +</p></note> +</p> + +</div><div type="chapter" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='259'/><anchor id='Pg259'/> +<index index="toc" level1="Chapter XVIII. The first ascent of the Ruinette"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Chapter XVIII. The first ascent of the Ruinette"/> +<head>CHAPTER XVIII.</head> + +<head type="sub">THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE RUINETTE—THE MATTERHORN.</head> + + +<epigraph><p><q>In almost every art, experience is worth more than + precepts.</q><lb/><hi rend='smallcaps'>Quintilian.</hi> +</p> +</epigraph> + +<p> +All of the excursions that were set down in my programme had +been carried out, with the exception of the ascent of the Matterhorn, +and we now turned our faces in its direction, but instead of +returning <hi rend='italic'>viâ</hi> the Val Tournanche, we took a route across country, +and bagged upon our way the summit of the Ruinette. +</p> + +<p> +We passed the night of July 4, at Aosta, under the roof of the +genial Tairraz, and on the 5th went by the Val d’Ollomont and +the Col de la Fenêtre (9140) to Chermontane. We slept that +night at the chalets of Chanrion (a foul spot, which should be +avoided), left them at 3.50 the next morning, and after a short +scramble over the slope above, and a half-mile tramp on the glacier +de Breney, we crossed directly to the Ruinette, and went almost +straight up it. There is not, I suppose, another mountain in the +Alps of the same height that can be ascended so easily. You have +only to go ahead: upon its southern side one can walk about +almost anywhere. +</p> + +<p> +Though I speak thus slightingly of a very respectable peak, I +will not do anything of the kind in regard to the view which it +gives. It is happily placed in respect to the rest of the Pennine +Alps, and as a stand-point it has not many superiors. You see +mountains, and nothing but mountains. It is a solemn—some +would say a dreary—view, but it is very grand. The great Combin +(14,164), with its noble background of the whole range of Mont +<pb n='260'/><anchor id='Pg260'/>Blanc, never looks so big as it does from here. In the contrary +direction, the Matterhorn overpowers all besides. The Dent +d’Hérens, although closer, looks a mere outlier of its great neighbour, +and the snows of Monte Rosa, behind, seem intended for no +other purpose than to give relief to the crags in front. To the +south there is an endless array of Bec’s and Becca’s, backed by the +great Italian peaks, whilst to the north Mont Pleureur (12,159) +holds it own against the more distant Wildstrubel. +</p> + +<p> +We gained the summit at 9.15,<note place="foot">After crossing the glacier de Breney, we ascended by some débris, and then by +some cliffy ground, to the glacier which surrounds the peak upon the south; bore to +the left (that is to the west) and went up the edge of the glacier; and lastly took to +the arête of the ridge which descends towards the south-west, and followed it to the +summit (12,727).</note> and stayed there an hour and +a half. My faithful guides then admonished me that Prerayen, +whither we were bound, was still far away, and that we had yet to +cross two lofty ridges. So we resumed our harness and departed; +not, however, before a huge cairn had been built out of the blocks +of gneiss with which the summit is bestrewn. Then we trotted +down the slopes of the Ruinette, over the glacier de Breney, and +across a pass which (if it deserves a name) may be called the Col +des Portons, after the neighbouring peaks. Thence we proceeded +across the great Otemma glacier towards the Col d’Olen. +</p> + +<p> +The part of the glacier that we traversed was overspread with +snow which completely concealed its numerous pitfalls. We +marched across it in single file, and, of course, roped together. +All at once Almer dropped into a crevasse up to his shoulders. I +pulled in the rope immediately, but the snow gave way as it was +being done, and I had to spread out my arms to stop my descent. +Biener held fast, and said afterwards, that his feet went through as +well; so, for a moment, all three were in the jaws of the crevasse. +We now altered our course, so as to take the fissures transversely, +and changed it again after the centre of the glacier was passed, +and made directly for the summit of the Col d’Olen. +</p> + +<p> +It is scarcely necessary to observe, after what I have said +<pb n='261'/><anchor id='Pg261'/>before, that it is my invariable practice to employ a rope when +traversing a snow-covered glacier. Many guides, even the best +ones, object to be roped, more especially early in the morning, when +the snow is hard. They object sometimes, because they think it +is unnecessary. Crevasses that are bridged by snow are almost +always more or less perceptible by undulations on the surface; the +snow droops down, and hollows mark the courses of the chasms +beneath. An experienced guide usually notices these almost imperceptible +wrinkles, steps one side or the other, as the case may +require, and rarely breaks through unawares. Guides think there +is no occasion to employ a rope because they think that they will +not be taken by surprise. Michel Croz used to be of this opinion. +He used to say that only imbeciles and children required to be +tied up in the morning. I told him that in this particular matter +I was a child to him. <q>You see these things, my good Croz, and +avoid them. I do <hi rend='italic'>not</hi>, except you point them out to me, and so +that which is not a danger to you, <hi rend='italic'>is</hi> a danger to me.</q> The +sharper one’s eyes get by use, the less is a rope required as a protective +against these hidden pitfalls; but, according to my experience, +the sight never becomes so keen that they can be avoided +with unvarying certainty, and I mentioned what occurred upon +the Otemma glacier to show that this is so. +</p> + +<p> +I well remember my first passage of the Col Théodule—the +easiest of the higher Alpine glacier passes. We had a rope, but +my guide said it was not necessary, he knew all the crevasses. +However, we did not go a quarter of a mile before he dropped +through the snow into a crevasse up to his neck. He was a heavy +man, and would scarcely have extricated himself alone; anyhow, +he was very glad of my assistance. When he got on to his legs +again, he said, <q>Well, I had no idea that there was a crevasse +there!</q> He no longer objected to use the rope, and we proceeded; +upon my part, with greater peace of mind than before. I have +crossed the pass fourteen times since then, and have invariably +insisted upon being tied together. +</p> + +<pb n='262'/><anchor id='Pg262'/> +<p> +Guides object to the use of the rope upon snow-covered glacier, +because they are afraid of being laughed at by their comrades; +and this, perhaps, is the more common reason. To illustrate this, +here is another Théodule experience. We arrived at the edge of +the ice, and I required to be tied. My guide (a Zermatt man of +repute) said that no one used a rope going across that pass. I +declined to argue the matter, and we put on the rope; though +very much against the wish of my man, who protested that he +should have to submit to perpetual ridicule if we met any of his +acquaintances. We had not gone very far before we saw a train +coming in the contrary direction. <q>Ah!</q> cried my man, <q>there +is R—— (mentioning a guide who used to be kept at the Riffel +Hotel for the ascent of Monte Rosa); it will be as I said, I shall +never hear the end of this.</q> The guide we met was followed by a +string of tom-fools, none of whom were tied together, and had his +face covered by a mask to prevent it becoming blistered. After +we had passed, I said, <q>Now, should R—— make any observations +to you, ask him why he takes such extraordinary care to preserve +the skin of his face, which will grow again in a week, when he +neglects such an obvious precaution in regard to his life, which he +can only lose once.</q> This was quite a new idea to my guide, and +he said nothing more against the use of the rope so long as we +were together. +</p> + +<p> +I believe that the unwillingness to use a rope upon snow-covered +glacier which born mountaineers not unfrequently exhibit, +arises—First, on the part of expert men, from the consciousness +that they themselves incur little risk; secondly, on the part of +inferior men, from fear of ridicule, and from aping the ways of +their superiors; and, thirdly, from pure ignorance or laziness. +Whatever may be the reason, I raise up my voice against the neglect +of a precaution so simple and so effectual. In my opinion, the +very first thing a glacier traveller requires is plenty of good rope. +</p> + +<p> +A committee of the English Alpine Club was appointed in +1864 to test, and to report upon, the most suitable ropes for +<pb n='263'/><anchor id='Pg263'/>mountaineering purposes, and those which were approved are +probably as good as can be found. One is made of Manilla and +another of Italian hemp. The former is the heavier, and weighs +a little more than an ounce per foot (103 ozs. to 100 feet). The +latter weighs 79 ozs. per 100 feet; but I prefer the Manilla rope, +because it is more handy to handle. Both of these ropes will +sustain 168 lbs. falling 10 feet, or 196 lbs. falling 8 feet, and they +break with a dead weight of two tons.<note place="foot">Manufactured and sold by Messrs. Buckingham, Broad Street, Bloomsbury.</note> In 1865 we carried two +100 feet lengths of the Manilla rope, and the inconvenience arising +from its weight was more than made up for by the security which +it afforded. Upon several occasions it was worth more than an +extra guide. +</p> + +<p> +Now, touching the <hi rend='italic'>use</hi> of the rope. There is a right way, and +there are wrong ways of using it. I often meet, upon glacier-passes, +elegantly got-up persons, who are clearly out of their +element, with a guide stalking along in front, who pays no +attention to the innocents +in his charge. +They are tied together +as a matter of +form, but they evidently +have no idea +<hi rend='italic'>why</hi> they are tied up, +for they walk side by +side, or close together, with the rope trailing on the snow. If one +tumbles into a crevasse, the rest stare, and say, <q>La! what is the +matter with Smith?</q> unless, as is more likely, they all tumble in +together. This is the wrong way to use a rope. It is abuse of +the rope. +</p><anchor id="ill263"/> +<anchor id="fig77"/><figure url="images/illus306.png" rend="w80"> + <figDesc>Illustration: The wrong way to use a rope on glacier</figDesc> +</figure> +<p> +It is of the first importance to keep the rope taut from man to +man. If this is not done, there is no real security, and your risks +may be considerably magnified. There is little or no difficulty in +extricating one man who breaks through a bridged crevasse if the +<pb n='264'/><anchor id='Pg264'/>rope is taut; but the case may be very awkward if two break +through at the same moment, close together, and there are only +two others to aid, or perhaps only one other. Further, the rope +ought not upon any account to graze over snow, ice, or rocks, +otherwise the strands suffer, and the lives of the whole party may +be endangered. Apart from this, it is extremely annoying to have +a rope knocking about one’s heels. If circumstances render it +impossible for the rope to be kept taut by itself, the men behind +should gather it up round their hands,<note place="foot">For example, when the leader suspects crevasses, and <hi rend='italic'>sounds</hi> for them, in the +manner shown in the <ref target="fig78">engraving</ref>, he usually loses half a step or more. The second +man should take a turn of the rope around his hand to draw it back in case the +leader goes through.</note> and not allow it to +incommode those in advance. A man must either be incompetent, +careless, or selfish, if he permits the rope to dangle about the heels +of the person in front of him. +</p><anchor id="fig78"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE RIGHT WAY TO USE THE ROPE.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus307.png" rend="w100"><head rend="ill">THE RIGHT WAY TO USE THE ROPE.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: The right way to use a rope on glacier</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +The distance from man to man must neither be too great nor +too small. About 12 feet between each is sufficient. If there are +only two or three persons, it is prudent to allow a little more—say +15 feet. More than this is unnecessary, and less than 9 or 10 +feet is not much good. +</p> + +<p> +It is essential to examine your rope from time to time to see +that it is in good condition. If you are wise you will do this +yourself every day. Latterly, I have examined every inch of my +rope overnight, and upon more than one occasion have found the +strands of the Manilla rope nearly half severed through accidental +grazes. +</p> + +<pb n='265'/><anchor id='Pg265'/> + +<p> +Thus far the rope has been supposed to be employed upon level, +snow-covered glacier, to prevent any risk from concealed crevasses. +On rocks and on slopes it is used for a different purpose (namely, +to guard against slips), and in these cases it is equally important +to keep it taut, and to preserve a reasonable distance one from the +other. It is much more troublesome to keep the rope taut upon +slopes than upon the level; and upon difficult rocks it is all but +impossible, except by adopting the plan of moving only one at a +time (see p. 115). +</p> + +<p> +There is no good reason for employing a rope upon easy rocks, +and I believe that its needless use is likely to promote carelessness. +On difficult rocks and on snow-slopes (frequently improperly called +ice-slopes) it is a great advantage to be tied together, provided the +rope is handled properly; but upon actual ice-slopes, such as that +on the Col Dolent (<ref target="Pg240">p. 240</ref>), or upon slopes in which ice is mingled +with small and loose rocks, such as the upper part of the Pointe +des Ecrins, it is almost useless, because a slip made by one +person might upset the entire party.<note place="foot">When several persons are descending such places, it is evident that the <hi rend='italic'>last +man</hi> cannot derive any assistance from the rope, and so might as well be untied. +Partly upon this account, it is usual to place one of the strongest and steadiest men +last. Now, although this cannot be termed a senseless precaution, it is obvious that +it is a perfectly useless one, if it is true that a single slip would upset the entire party. +The best plan I know is that which we adopted on the descent of the Col Dolent, +namely, to let one man go in advance until he reaches some secure point. This one +then detaches himself, the rope is drawn up, and another man is sent down to join +him, and so on until the last. The last man still occupies the most difficult post, +and should be the steadiest man; but he is not exposed to any risk from his comrades +slipping, and they, of course, draw in the rope as he descends, so that his position +is less hazardous than if he were to come down quite by himself.</note> I am not prepared to say, +however, that men should not be tied together upon similar slopes. +Being attached to others usually gives confidence, and confidence +decidedly assists stability. It is more questionable whether men +should be in such places at all. If a man can keep on his feet upon +an <hi rend='italic'>escalier</hi> cut in an ice-slope, I see no reason why he should be +<pb n='266'/><anchor id='Pg266'/>debarred from making use of that particular form of staircase. If +he cannot, let him keep clear of such places.<note place="foot">If you are out upon an excursion, and find the work becoming so arduous +that you have great difficulty in maintaining your balance, you should at once +retire, and not imperil the lives of others. I am well aware that the withdrawal of +one person for such reasons would usually necessitate the retreat of a second, and +that expeditions would be often cut short if this were to happen. With the fear of +this before their eyes, I believe that many amateurs continue to go on, albeit well +convinced that they ought not. They do not wish to stop the sport of their comrades; +but they frequently suffer mental tortures in consequence, which most +emphatically do not assist their stability, and are likely to lead to something even +more disagreeable than the abandonment of the excursion. The moral is, take an +adequate number of guides.</note> +</p> + +<p> +There would be no advantage in discoursing upon the use of the +rope at greater length. A single day upon a mountain’s side will +give a clearer idea of the value of a good rope, and of the numerous +purposes for which it may be employed, than any one will obtain +from reading all that has been written upon the subject; but no +one will become really expert in its management without much +experience. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +From the Col d’Olen we proceeded down the Combe of the +same name to the chalets of Prerayen, and passed the night of the +6th under the roof of our old acquaintance, the wealthy herdsman. +On the 7th we crossed the Va Cornère pass, <hi rend='italic'>en route</hi> for Breil. +My thoughts were fixed on the Matterhorn, and my guides knew +that I wished them to accompany me. They had an aversion to +the mountain, and repeatedly expressed their belief that it was +useless to try to ascend it. <q><hi rend='italic'>Anything</hi> but Matterhorn, dear sir!</q> +said Almer; <q><hi rend='italic'>anything</hi> but Matterhorn.</q> He did not speak of +difficulty or of danger, nor was he shirking <hi rend='italic'>work</hi>. He offered to +go <hi rend='italic'>anywhere</hi>; but he entreated that the Matterhorn should be +abandoned. Both men spoke fairly enough. They did not think +that an ascent could be made; and for their own credit, as well as +for my sake, they did not wish to undertake a business which, in +their opinion, would only lead to loss of time and money. +</p> + +<pb n='267'/><anchor id='Pg267'/> + +<p> +I sent them by the short cut to Breil, and walked down to +Val Tournanche to look for Jean-Antoine Carrel. He was not +there. The villagers said that he, and three others, had started on +the 6th to try the Matterhorn by the old way, on their own +account. They will have no luck, I thought, for the clouds were +low down on the mountains; and I walked up to Breil, fully +expecting to meet them. Nor was I disappointed. About half-way +up I saw a group of men clustered around a chalet upon the +other side of the torrent, and, crossing over, found that the party +had returned. Jean-Antoine and Cæsar were there, C. E. Gorret, +and J. J. Maquignaz. They had had no success. The weather, +they said, had been horrible, and they had scarcely reached the +glacier du Lion. +</p> + +<p> +I explained the situation to Carrel, and proposed that we, +with Cæsar and another man, should cross the Théodule by moonlight +on the 9th, and that upon the 10th we should pitch the tent +as high as possible upon the east face. He was unwilling to +abandon the old route, and urged me to try it again. I promised +to do so provided the new route failed. This satisfied him, and he +agreed to my proposal. I then went up to Breil, and discharged +Almer and Biener—with much regret, for no two men ever served +me more faithfully or more willingly.<note place="foot">During the preceding eighteen days (I exclude Sundays and other non-working +days) we ascended more than 100,000 feet, and descended 98,000 feet.</note> On the next day they +crossed to Zermatt. +</p> + +<p> +The 8th was occupied with preparations. The weather was +stormy; and black, rainy vapours obscured the mountains. Towards +evening a young man came from Val Tournanche, and reported +that an Englishman was lying there, extremely ill. Now was the +time for the performance of my vow;<note place="foot">See <ref target="Pg079">p. 79</ref>.</note> and on the morning of +Sunday the 9th I went down the valley to look after the sick man. +On my way I passed a foreign gentleman, with a mule and several +porters laden with baggage. Amongst these men were +Jean-<pb n='268'/><anchor id='Pg268'/>Antoine and Cæsar, carrying some barometers. <q>Hullo!</q> I said, +<q>what are you doing?</q> They explained that the foreigner had +arrived just as they were setting out, and that they were assisting +his porters. <q>Very well; go on to Breil, and await me there; we +start at midnight as agreed.</q> Jean-Antoine then said that he +should not be able to serve me after Tuesday the 11th, as he was +engaged to travel <q>with a family of distinction</q> in the valley of +Aosta. <q>And Cæsar?</q> <q>And Cæsar also.</q> <q>Why did you not +say this before?</q> <q>Because,</q> said he, <q>it was not settled. The +engagement is of long standing, but <hi rend='italic'>the day</hi> was not fixed. When +I got back to Val Tournanche on Friday night, after leaving you, I +found a letter naming the day.</q> I could not object to the answer; +but the prospect of being left guideless was provoking. They +went up, and I down, the valley. +</p> + +<p> +The sick man declared that he was better, though the exertion +of saying as much tumbled him over on to the floor in a fainting fit. +He was badly in want of medicine, and I tramped down to Chatillon +to get it. It was late before I returned to Val Tournanche, +for the weather was tempestuous, and rain fell in torrents. A figure +passed me under the church porch. <q><hi rend='italic'>Qui vive?</hi></q> <q>Jean-Antoine.</q> +<q>I thought you were at Breil.</q> <q>No, sir: when the storms came +on I knew we should not start to-night, and so came down to sleep +here.</q> <q>Ha, Carrel!</q> I said; <q>this is a great bore. If to-morrow +is not fine we shall not be able to do anything together. I have +sent away my guides, relying on you; and now you are going to +leave me to travel with a party of ladies. That work is not fit for +<hi rend='italic'>you</hi> (he smiled, I supposed at the implied compliment); can’t you +send some one else instead?</q> <q>No, monsieur. I am sorry, but +my word is pledged. I should like to accompany you, but I +can’t break my engagement.</q> By this time we had arrived at the +inn door. <q>Well, it is no fault of yours. Come presently with +Cæsar, and have some wine.</q> They came, and we sat up till +midnight, recounting our old adventures, in the inn of Val +Tournanche. +</p> + +<pb n='269'/><anchor id='Pg269'/> + +<p> +The weather continued bad upon the 10th, and I returned to +Breil. The two Carrels were again hovering about the above mentioned +chalet, and I bade them adieu. In the evening the sick man +crawled up, a good deal better; but his was the only arrival. The +Monday crowd<note place="foot">Tourists usually congregate at Zermatt upon Sundays, and large gangs and +droves cross the Théodule pass on Mondays.</note> did not cross the Théodule, on account of the continued +storms. The inn was lonely. I went to bed early, and was +awoke the next morning by the invalid inquiring if I had <q>heard +the news.</q> <q>No; what news?</q> <q>Why,</q> said he, <q>a large party +of guides went off this morning to try the Matterhorn, taking with +them a mule laden with provisions.</q> +</p> + +<p> +I went to the door, and with a telescope saw the party upon +the lower slopes of the mountain. Favre, the landlord, stood by. +<q>What is all this about?</q> I inquired, <q>who is the leader of this +party?</q> <q>Carrel.</q> <q>What! Jean-Antoine?</q> <q>Yes; Jean-Antoine.</q> +<q>Is Cæsar there too?</q> <q>Yes, he is there.</q> Then I saw +in a moment that I had been bamboozled and humbugged; and +learned, bit by bit, that the affair had been arranged long beforehand. +The start on the 6th had been for a preliminary reconnaissance; +the mule, that I passed, was conveying stores for the attack; +the <q>family of distinction</q> was Signor F. Giordano, who had just +despatched the party to facilitate the way to the summit, and who, +when the facilitation was completed, was to be taken to the top +along with Signor Sella!<note place="foot">The Italian Minister. Signor Giordano had undertaken the business arrangements +for Signor Sella.</note> +</p> + +<p> +I was greatly mortified. My plans were upset; the Italians +had clearly stolen a march upon me, and I saw that the astute +Favre chuckled over my discomfiture, because the route by the +eastern face, if successful, would not benefit his inn. What was to +be done? I retired to my room, and soothed by tobacco, re-studied +my plans, to see if it was not possible to outmanÅ“uvre the Italians. +</p> + +<p> +<q>They have taken a mule’s load of provisions.</q> <q><anchor id="corr269"/><corr sic="(quote missing)">That</corr> is <hi rend='italic'>one</hi> point +<pb n='270'/><anchor id='Pg270'/>in my favour, for they will take two or three days to get through +the food, and, until that is done, no work will be accomplished.</q> +<q>How is the weather?</q> I went to the window. The mountain was +smothered up in mist. <q>Another point in my favour.</q> <q>They are +to facilitate the way. Well, if they do that to any purpose, it will +be a long job.</q> Altogether, I reckoned that they could not possibly +ascend the mountain and come back to Breil in less than +seven days. I got cooler, for it was evident that the wily ones +might be outwitted after all. There was time enough to go to +Zermatt, to try the eastern face, and, should it prove impracticable, +to come back to Breil before the men returned; and then, it seemed +to me, as the mountain was not padlocked, one might start at the +same time as the Messieurs, and yet get to the top before them. +</p> + +<p> +The first thing to do was to go to Zermatt. Easier said than +done. The seven guides upon the mountain included the ablest +men in the valley, and none of the ordinary muleteer-guides were +at Breil. Two men, at least, were wanted for my baggage, but not +a soul could be found. I ran about, and sent about in all directions, +but not a single porter could be obtained. One was with +Carrel; another was ill; another was at Chatillon, and so forth. +Even Meynet, the hunchback, could not be induced to come; he +was in the thick of some important cheese-making operations. I +was in the position of a general without an army; it was all very +well to make plans, but there was no one to execute them. This +did not much trouble me, for it was evident that so long as the +weather stopped traffic over the Théodule pass, it would hinder +the men equally upon the Matterhorn; and I knew that directly +it improved company would certainly arrive. +</p> + +<p> +About midday on Tuesday the 11th a large party hove in sight +from Zermatt, preceded by a nimble young Englishman, and one of +old Peter Taugwalder’s sons.<note place="foot">Peter Taugwalder, the father, is called <hi rend='italic'>old</hi> Peter, to distinguish him from his +eldest son, <hi rend='italic'>young</hi> Peter. In 1865 the father’s age was about 45.</note> I went at once to this gentleman +to learn if he could dispense with Taugwalder. He said that he +<pb n='271'/><anchor id='Pg271'/>could not, as they were going to recross to Zermatt on the morrow, +but that the young man should assist in transporting my baggage, +as he had nothing to carry. We naturally got into conversation. +I told my story, and learned that the young Englishman was Lord +Francis Douglas,<note place="foot">Brother of the present Marquis of Queensberry.</note> whose recent exploit—the ascent of the Gabelhorn—had +excited my wonder and admiration. He brought good +news. Old Peter had lately been beyond the Hörnli, and had reported +that he thought an ascent of the Matterhorn was possible +upon that side. Almer had left Zermatt, and could not be recovered, +so I determined to seek for old Peter. Lord Francis Douglas +expressed a warm desire to ascend the mountain, and before long +it was determined that he should take part in the expedition. +</p> + +<p> +Favre could no longer hinder our departure, and lent us one of +his men. We crossed the Col Théodule on Wednesday morning +the 12th of July, rounded the foot of the Ober Théodulgletscher, +crossed the Furggengletscher, and deposited tent, blankets, ropes, +and other matters in the little chapel at the Schwarzsee.<note place="foot">For route, and the others mentioned in the subsequent chapters, see + <ref target="map1">map of Matterhorn and its glaciers</ref>.</note> All +four were heavily laden, for we brought across the whole of my +stores from Breil. Of rope alone there was about 600 feet. There +were three kinds. First, 200 feet of the Manilla rope; second, +150 feet of a stouter, and probably stronger rope than the first; +and third, more than 200 feet of a lighter and weaker rope than +the first, of a kind that I used formerly (stout sash-line). +</p> + +<p> +We descended to Zermatt, sought and engaged old Peter, and +gave him permission to choose another guide. When we returned +to the Monte Rosa Hotel, whom should we see sitting upon the +wall in front but my old <hi rend='italic'>guide chef</hi>, Michel Croz. I supposed that +he had come with Mr. B——, but I learned that that gentleman +had arrived in ill health, at Chamounix, and had returned to +England. Croz, thus left free, had been immediately engaged by +the Rev. Charles Hudson, and they had come to Zermatt with the +<pb n='272'/><anchor id='Pg272'/>same object as ourselves—namely, to attempt the ascent of the +Matterhorn! +</p> + +<p> +Lord Francis Douglas and I dined at the Monte Rosa, and had +just finished when Mr. Hudson and a friend entered the <hi rend='italic'>salle à +manger</hi>. They had returned from inspecting the mountain, and +some idlers in the room demanded their intentions. We heard a +confirmation of Croz’s statement, and learned that Mr. Hudson intended +to set out on the morrow at the same hour as ourselves. +We left the room to consult, and agreed it was undesirable that +two independent parties should be on the mountain at the same +time with the same object. Mr. Hudson was therefore invited to +join us, and he accepted our proposal. Before admitting his friend—Mr. +Hadow—I took the precaution to inquire what he had done +in the Alps, and, as well as I remember, Mr. Hudson’s reply was, +<q>Mr. Hadow has done Mont Blanc in less time than most men.</q> +He then mentioned several other excursions that were unknown to +me, and added, in answer to a further question, <q>I consider he is a +sufficiently good man to go with us.</q> Mr. Hadow was admitted +without any further question, and we then went into the matter +of guides. Hudson thought that Croz and old Peter would be +sufficient. The question was referred to the men themselves, and +they made no objection. +</p> + +<p> +So Croz and I became comrades once more; and as I threw +myself on my bed and tried to go to sleep, I wondered at the +strange series of chances which had first separated us and then +brought us together again. I thought of the mistake through +which he had accepted the engagement to Mr. B——; of his unwillingness +to adopt my route; of his recommendation to transfer +our energies to the chain of Mont Blanc; of the retirement of +Almer and Biener; of the desertion of Carrel; of the arrival of +Lord Francis Douglas; and, lastly, of our meeting at Zermatt; and +as I pondered over these things I could not help asking, <q>What +next?</q> If any one of the links of this fatal chain of circumstances +had been omitted, what a different story I should have to tell! +</p> + +</div><div type="chapter" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='273'/><anchor id='Pg273'/> +<index index="toc" level1="Chapter XIX. The first ascent of the Matterhorn"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Chapter XIX. The first ascent of the Matterhorn"/> +<head>CHAPTER XIX.</head> + +<head type="sub">THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN.</head> + +<epigraph><lg> +<l rend='margin-left: 10'><q rend="post: none">Had we succeeded well,</q></l> +<l>We had been reckoned ’mongst the wise: our minds</l> +<l><q rend="pre: none">Are so disposed to judge from the event.</q></l> +<l rend="text-align: right"><hi rend='smallcaps'>Euripides.</hi></l> +</lg> +<p> + <q>It is a thoroughly unfair, but an ordinary custom, to praise or blame designs +(which in themselves may be good or bad) just as they turn out well or ill. Hence +the same actions are at one time attributed to earnestness and at another to +vanity.</q><lb/><hi rend='smallcaps'>Pliny Min.</hi> +</p> +</epigraph> + +<p> +We started from Zermatt on the 13th of July, at half-past 5, on +a brilliant and perfectly cloudless morning. We were eight in +number—Croz, old Peter and his two sons,<note place="foot">The two young Taugwalders were taken as porters, by desire of their father, and +carried provisions amply sufficient for three days, in case the ascent should prove +more troublesome than we anticipated.</note> Lord F. Douglas, +Hadow, Hudson,<note place="foot"><p> +I remember speaking about pedestrianism to a well-known mountaineer some +years ago, and venturing to remark that a man who averaged thirty miles a-day might +be considered a good walker. <q>A fair walker,</q> he said, <q>a <hi rend='italic'>fair</hi> walker.</q> <q>What +then would you consider <hi rend='italic'>good</hi> walking?</q> <q>Well,</q> he replied, <q>I will tell you. +Some time back a friend and I agreed to go to Switzerland, but a short time afterwards +he wrote to say he ought to let me know that a young and delicate lad was +going with him who would not be equal to great things, in fact, he would not be able +to do more than fifty miles a-day!</q> <q>What became of the young and delicate lad?</q> +<q>He lives.</q> <q>And who was your extraordinary friend?</q> <q>Charles Hudson.</q> I +have every reason to believe that the gentlemen referred to <hi rend='italic'>were</hi> equal to walking +more than fifty miles a-day, but they were exceptional, not <hi rend='italic'>good</hi> pedestrians. +</p> + +<p> +Charles Hudson, Vicar of Skillington in Lincolnshire, was considered by the +mountaineering fraternity to be the best amateur of his time. He was the organiser +and leader of the party of Englishmen who ascended Mont Blanc by the Aig. du +Goûter, and descended by the Grands Mulets route, without guides, in 1855. His +long practice made him surefooted, and in that respect he was not greatly inferior to +a born mountaineer. I remember him as a well-made man of middle height and age, +neither stout nor thin, with face pleasant—though grave, and with quiet unassuming +manners. Although an athletic man, he would have been overlooked in a crowd; +and although he had done the greatest mountaineering feats which have been done, +he was the last man to speak of his own doings. His friend Mr. Hadow was a young +man of nineteen, who had the looks and manners of a greater age. He was a rapid +walker, but 1865 was his first season in the Alps. Lord Francis Douglas was about +the same age as Mr. Hadow. He had had the advantage of several seasons in the +Alps. He was nimble as a deer, and was becoming an expert mountaineer. Just +before our meeting he had ascended the Ober Gabelhorn (with old Peter Taugwalder +and Jos. Viennin), and this gave me a high opinion of his powers; for I had examined +that mountain all round, a few weeks before, and had declined its ascent on account +of its apparent difficulty. +</p> + +<p> +My personal acquaintance with Mr. Hudson was very slight—still I should have +been content to have placed myself under his orders if he had chosen to claim the +position to which he was entitled. Those who knew him will not be surprised to +learn that, so far from doing this, he lost no opportunity of consulting the wishes +and opinions of those around him. We deliberated together whenever there was +occasion, and our authority was recognised by the others. Whatever responsibility +there was devolved upon <hi rend='italic'>us</hi>. I recollect with satisfaction that there was no difference +of opinion between us as to what should be done, and that the most perfect harmony +existed between all of us so long as we were together. +</p></note> and I. To ensure steady motion, one tourist +<pb n='274'/><anchor id='Pg274'/>and one native walked together. The youngest Taugwalder fell +to my share, and the lad marched well, proud to be on the expedition, +and happy to show his powers. The wine-bags also fell to +my lot to carry, and throughout the day, after each drink, I +replenished them secretly with water, so that at the next halt +they were found fuller than before! This was considered a good +omen, and little short of miraculous. +</p> + +<p> +On the first day we did not intend to ascend to any great +height, and we mounted, accordingly, very leisurely; picked up +the things which were left in the chapel at the Schwarzsee at +8.20, and proceeded thence along the ridge connecting the Hörnli +with the Matterhorn.<note place="foot">Arrived at the chapel 7.30 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi>; left it, 8.20; halted to examine route 9.30; +started again 10.25, and arrived at 11.20 at the cairn made by Mr. Kennedy in 1862 +(see <ref target="Pg059">p. 59</ref>), marked 10,820 feet upon the map. Stopped 10 min. here. From the +Hörnli to this point we kept, when possible, to the crest of the ridge. The greater +part of the way was excessively easy, though there were a few places where the axe +had to be used.</note> At half-past 11 we arrived at the base of +the actual peak; then quitted the ridge, and clambered round +<pb n='275'/><anchor id='Pg275'/>some ledges, on to the eastern face. We were now fairly upon the +mountain, and were astonished to find that places which from +the Riffel, or even from the Furggengletscher, looked entirely +impracticable, were so easy that we could <hi rend='italic'>run about</hi>. +</p> + +<p> +Before twelve o’clock we had found a good position for the +tent, at a height of 11,000 feet.<note place="foot">Thus far the guides did not once go to the front. Hudson or I led, and when +any cutting was required we did it ourselves. This was done to spare the guides, and +to show them that we were thoroughly in earnest. The spot at which we camped +was four hours’ walking from Zermatt, and is marked upon the map—<hi rend='small'>CAMP</hi> (1865). +It was just upon a level with the Furggengrat, and its position is indicated upon the +<ref target="plate10">engraving facing p. 227</ref> by a little circular white spot, in a line with the word <hi rend='small'>CAMP</hi>.</note> Croz and young Peter went on +to see what was above, in order to save time on the following +morning. They cut across the heads of the snow-slopes which +descended towards the Furggengletscher, and disappeared round +a corner; and shortly afterwards we saw them high up on the +face, moving quickly. We others made a solid platform for the +tent in a well-protected spot, and then watched eagerly for the +return of the men. The stones which they upset told that they +were very high, and we supposed that the way must be easy. At +length, just before 3 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi>, we saw them coming down, evidently +much excited. <q>What are they saying, Peter?</q> <q>Gentlemen, +they say it is no good.</q> But when they came near we heard +a different story. <q>Nothing but what was good; not a difficulty, +not a single difficulty! We could have gone to the summit +and returned to-day easily!</q> +</p> + +<p> +We passed the remaining hours of daylight—some basking in +the sunshine, some sketching or collecting; and when the sun went +down, giving, as it departed, a glorious promise for the morrow, we +returned to the tent to arrange for the night. Hudson made tea, +I coffee, and we then retired each one to his blanket-bag; the Taugwalders, +Lord Francis Douglas, and myself, occupying the tent, the +<pb n='276'/><anchor id='Pg276'/>others remaining, by preference, outside. Long after dusk the +cliffs above echoed with our laughter and with the songs of the +guides, for we were happy that night in camp, and feared no evil. +</p> + +<p> +We assembled together outside the tent before dawn on the +morning of the 14th, and started directly it was light enough to +move. Young Peter came on with us as a guide, and his brother +returned to Zermatt.<note place="foot">It was originally intended to leave both of the young men behind. We found it +difficult to divide the food, and so the new arrangement was made.</note> We followed the route which had been +taken on the previous day, and in a few minutes turned the rib +which had intercepted the view of the eastern face from our tent +platform. The whole of this great slope was now revealed, rising +for 3000 feet like a huge natural staircase.<note place="foot">See <ref target="Pg227">pp. 227</ref>-<ref target="Pg231">231</ref>.</note> Some parts were +more, and others were less, easy; but we were not once brought to +a halt by any serious impediment, for when an obstruction was +met in front it could always be turned to the right or to the left. +For the greater part of the way there was, indeed, no occasion for +the rope, and sometimes Hudson led, sometimes myself. At 6.20 +we had attained a height of 12,800 feet, and halted for half-an-hour; +we then continued the ascent without a break until 9.55, +when we stopped for 50 minutes, at a height of 14,000 feet. +Twice we struck the N.E. ridge, and followed it for some little +distance,<note place="foot">For track, see the lower of the <ref target="plate11">outlines facing p. 230</ref>.</note>—to no advantage, for it was usually more rotten and +steep, and always more difficult than the face.<note place="foot">See remarks on arêtes and faces on <ref target="Pg206">p. 206</ref>. There is very little to choose +between in the arêtes leading from the summit towards the Hörnli (N.E. ridge) and +towards the Col du Lion (S.W. ridge). Both are jagged, serrated ridges, which any +experienced climber would willingly avoid if he could find another route. On the +northern (Zermatt) side the eastern face affords another route, or any number of +routes, since there is hardly a part of it which cannot be traversed! On the southern +(Breil) side the ridge alone, generally speaking, can be followed; and when it becomes +impracticable, and the climber is forced to bear down to the right or to the left, the +work is of the most difficult character.</note> Still, we kept +near to it, lest stones perchance might fall.<note place="foot">Very few stones fell during the two days I was on the mountain, and none came +near us. Others who have followed the same route have not been so fortunate; they +may not, perhaps, have taken the same precautions. It is a noteworthy fact, that the +lateral moraine of the left bank of the Furggengletscher is scarcely larger than that of +the right bank, although the former receives all the débris that falls from the 4000 +feet of cliffs which form the eastern side of the Matterhorn, whilst the latter is fed by +perfectly insignificant slopes. Neither of these moraines is large. This is strong evidence +that stones do <hi rend='italic'>not</hi> fall to any great extent from the eastern face. The inward dip +of the beds retains the detritus in place. Hence the eastern face appears, when one +is upon it, to be undergoing more rapid disintegration than the other sides: in reality, +the mantle of ruin spares the mountain from farther waste. Upon the southern side, +rocks fall as they are rent off; <q>each day’s work is cleared away</q> every day; and hence +the faces and ridges are left naked, and are exposed to fresh attacks.</note> +</p> +<pb n='277'/><anchor id='Pg277'/> + +<p> +We had now arrived at the foot of that part which, from the +Riffelberg or from Zermatt, seems perpendicular or overhanging, +and could no longer continue upon the eastern side. For a little +distance we ascended by snow upon the arête<note place="foot">The snow seen in the <ref target="plate10">engraving facing p. 227</ref>, half-an-inch below the summit, +and a little to its right.</note>—that is, the ridge—descending +towards Zermatt, and then, by common consent, +turned over to the right, or to the northern side. Before doing +so, we made a change in the order of ascent. Croz went first, I +followed, Hudson came third; Hadow and old Peter were last. +<q>Now,</q> said Croz, as he led off, <q>now for something altogether +different.</q> The work became difficult, and required caution. In +some places there was little to hold, and it was desirable that +those should be in front who were least likely to slip. The +general slope of the mountain at this part was <hi rend='italic'>less</hi> than 40°, and +snow had accumulated in, and had filled up, the interstices of the +rock-face, leaving only occasional fragments projecting here and +there. These were at times covered with a thin film of ice, +produced from the melting and refreezing of the snow. It was +the counterpart, on a small scale, of the upper 700 feet of the +Pointe des Ecrins,—only there was this material difference; the +face of the Ecrins was about, or exceeded, an angle of 50°, and the +Matterhorn face was less than 40°.<note place="foot">This part was less steeply inclined than the whole of the eastern face.</note> It was a place over which +<pb n='278'/><anchor id='Pg278'/>any fair mountaineer might pass in safety, and Mr. Hudson +ascended this part, and, as far as I know, the entire mountain, +without having the slightest assistance rendered to him upon any +occasion. Sometimes, after I had taken a hand from Croz, or +received a pull, I turned to offer the same to Hudson; but he +invariably declined, saying it was not necessary. Mr. Hadow, +however, was not accustomed to this kind of work, and required +continual assistance. It is only fair to say that the difficulty +which he found at this part arose simply and entirely from want +of experience. +</p> + +<p> +This solitary difficult part was of no great extent.<note place="foot">I have no memorandum of the time that it occupied. It must have taken +about an hour and a half.</note> We bore +away over it at first, nearly horizontally, for a distance of about +400 feet; then ascended directly towards the summit for about +60 feet; and then doubled back to the ridge which descends +towards Zermatt. A long stride round a rather awkward corner +brought us to snow once more. The last doubt vanished! The +Matterhorn was ours! Nothing but 200 feet of easy snow remained +to be surmounted! +</p> + +<p> +You must now carry your thoughts back to the seven Italians +who started from Breil on the 11th of July. Four days had +passed since their departure, and we were tormented with anxiety +lest they should arrive on the top before us. All the way up +we had talked of them, and many false alarms of <q>men on the +summit</q> had been raised. The higher we rose, the more intense +became the excitement. What if we should be beaten at the last +moment? The slope eased off, at length we could be detached, +and Croz and I, dashing away, ran a neck-and-neck race, which +ended in a dead heat. At 1.40 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> the world was at our feet, and +the Matterhorn was conquered. Hurrah! Not a footstep could +be seen. +</p> + +<p> +It was not yet certain that we had not been beaten. The +summit of the Matterhorn was formed of a rudely level ridge, +<pb n='279'/><anchor id='Pg279'/>about 350 feet long,<note place="foot">The highest points are towards the two ends. In 1865 the northern end was +slightly higher than the southern one. In bygone years Carrel and I often suggested +to each other that we might one day arrive upon the top, and find ourselves cut off +from the very highest point by a notch in the summit-ridge which is seen from the +Theodule and from Breil (marked <hi rend='antiqua'>D</hi> on the <ref target="fig32">outline on p. 85</ref>). This notch is very +conspicuous from below, but when we were upon the summit it was hardly noticed, +and it could be passed without the least difficulty.</note> and the Italians might have been at its +farther extremity. I hastened to the southern end, scanning the +snow right and left eagerly. Hurrah! again; it was untrodden. +<q>Where were the men?</q> I peered over the cliff, half doubting, +half expectant. I saw them immediately—mere dots on the ridge, +at an immense distance below. Up went my arms and my hat. +<pb n='280'/><anchor id='Pg280'/><q>Croz! Croz!! come here!</q> <q>Where are they, Monsieur?</q> +<q>There, don’t you see them, down there?</q> <q>Ah! the <hi rend='italic'>coquins</hi>, +they are low down.</q> <q>Croz, we must make those fellows hear us.</q> +We yelled until we were hoarse. The Italians seemed to regard us—we +could not be certain. <q>Croz, we <hi rend='italic'>must</hi> make them hear us; +they <hi rend='italic'>shall</hi> hear us!</q> I seized a block of rock and hurled it down, +and called upon my companion, in the name of friendship, to do +the same. We drove our sticks in, and prized away the crags, and +soon a torrent of stones poured down the cliffs. There was no +mistake about it this time. The Italians turned and fled.<note place="foot">I have learnt since from J.-A. Carrel that they heard our first cries. They +were then upon the south-west ridge, close to the <q>Cravate,</q> and <hi rend='italic'>twelve hundred and +fifty</hi> feet below us; or, as the crow flies, at a distance of about one-third of a mile.</note> +</p><anchor id="fig79"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: <q>CROZ! CROZ!! COME HERE!</q>]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus322.png" rend="w80"><head rend="ill"><q>CROZ! CROZ!! COME HERE!</q></head> + <figDesc>Illustration: Croz! Croz!! Come Here!</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +Still, I would that the leader of that party could have stood +with us at that moment, for our victorious shouts conveyed to him +the disappointment of the ambition of a lifetime. He was <hi rend='italic'>the</hi> +man, of all those who attempted the ascent of the Matterhorn, +who most deserved to be the first upon its summit. He was the +first to doubt its inaccessibility, and he was the only man who +persisted in believing that its ascent would be accomplished. It +was the aim of his life to make the ascent from the side of Italy, +for the honour of his native valley. For a time he had the game +in his hands: he played it as he thought best; but he made a +false move, and he lost it. Times have changed with Carrel. His +supremacy is questioned in the Val Tournanche; new men have +arisen; and he is no longer recognised as <hi rend='italic'>the</hi> chasseur above all +others: though so long as he remains the man that he is to-day, +it will not be easy to find his superior. +</p> + +<p> +The others had arrived, so we went back to the northern end +of the ridge. Croz now took the tent-pole,<note place="foot">At our departure the men were confident that the ascent would be made, and +took one of the poles out of the tent. I protested that it was tempting Providence; +they took the pole, nevertheless.</note> and planted it in the +highest snow. <q>Yes,</q> we said, <q>there is the flag-staff, but where +is the flag?</q> <q>Here it is,</q> he answered, pulling off his blouse +<pb n='281'/><anchor id='Pg281'/>and fixing it to the stick. It made a poor flag, and there was no +wind to float it out, yet it was seen all around. They saw it at +Zermatt—at the Riffel—in the Val Tournanche. At Breil, the +watchers cried, <q>Victory is ours!</q> They raised <q>bravos</q> for +Carrel, and <q>vivas</q> for Italy, and hastened to put themselves <hi rend='italic'>en +fête</hi>. On the morrow they were undeceived. <q>All was changed; +the explorers returned sad—cast down—disheartened—confounded—gloomy.</q> +<q>It is true,</q> said the men. <q>We saw them ourselves—they +hurled stones at us! The old traditions <hi rend='italic'>are</hi> true,—there +are spirits on the top of the Matterhorn!</q><note place="foot"><p>Signor Giordano was naturally disappointed at the result, and wished the men +to start again. <hi rend='italic'>They all refused to do so, with the exception of Jean-Antoine.</hi> Upon +the 16th of July he set out again with three others, and upon the 17th gained the +summit by passing (at first) up the south-west ridge, and (afterwards) by turning over +to the Z’Mutt, or north-western side. On the 18th he returned to Breil. +</p> + +<p> +Whilst we were upon the southern end of the summit-ridge, we paid some attention +to the portion of the mountain which intervened between ourselves and the +Italian guides. It seemed as if there would not be the least chance for them if they +should attempt to storm the final peak directly from the end of the <q>shoulder.</q> In +that direction cliffs fell sheer down from the summit, and we were unable to see +beyond a certain distance. There remained the route about which Carrel and I had +often talked, namely to ascend directly at first from the end of the <q>shoulder,</q> and +afterwards to swerve to the left—that is, to the Z’Mutt side—and to complete the +ascent from the north-west. When we were upon the summit we laughed at this +idea. The part of the mountain that I have described upon <ref target="Pg278">p. 278</ref>, was not easy, +although its inclination was moderate. If that slope were made only ten degrees +steeper, its difficulty would be enormously increased. To double its inclination would +be to make it impracticable. The slope at the southern end of the summit-ridge, +falling towards the north-west, was <hi rend='italic'>much</hi> steeper than that over which we passed, and +we ridiculed the idea that any person should attempt to ascend in that direction, when +the northern route was so easy. Nevertheless, the summit was reached by that route +by the undaunted Carrel. From knowing the final slope over which he passed, and +from the account of Mr. F. C. Grove—who is the only traveller by whom it has been +traversed—I do not hesitate to term the ascent of Carrel and Bich in 1865 the most +desperate piece of mountain-scrambling upon record. In 1869 I asked Carrel if +he had ever done anything more difficult. His reply was, <q>Man cannot do anything +much more difficult than that!</q> See <ref target="Pg304">Appendix <hi rend='antiqua'>D</hi></ref>. +</p></note> +</p><anchor id="fig80"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1865 (NORTHERN END).]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus324.png" rend="w100"> + <head rend="ill">THE SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1865 (NORTHERN END).</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: The summit of the Matterhorn in 1865 (Northern end)</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<pb n='282'/><anchor id='Pg282'/> +<p> +We returned to the southern end of the ridge to build a cairn, +and then paid homage to the view.<note place="foot">The summit-ridge was much shattered, although not so extensively as the +south-west and north-east ridges. The highest rock, in 1865, was a block of micaschist, +and the fragment I broke off it not only possesses, in a remarkable degree, +the character of the peak, but mimics, in an astonishing manner, the details of its +form. (See <ref target="fig81">illustration on page 284</ref>.)</note> The day was one of those +superlatively calm and clear ones which usually precede bad +weather. The atmosphere was perfectly still, and free from all +clouds or vapours. Mountains fifty—nay a hundred—miles off, +looked sharp and near. All their details—ridge and crag, snow +and glacier—stood out with faultless definition. Pleasant thoughts +of happy days in bygone years came up unbidden, as we recognised +the old, familiar forms. All were revealed—not one of the +prin<pb n='283'/><anchor id='Pg283'/>cipal peaks of the Alps was hidden.<note place="foot">It is most unusual to see the southern half of the panorama unclouded. A +hundred ascents may be made before this will be the case again.</note> I see them clearly now—the +great inner circles of giants, backed by the ranges, chains, and +<hi rend='italic'>massifs</hi>. First came the Dent Blanche, hoary and grand; the +Gabelhorn and pointed Rothhorn; and then the peerless Weisshorn: +the towering Mischabelhörner, flanked by the Allaleinhorn, +Strahlhorn, and Rimpfischhorn; then Monte Rosa—with its many +Spitzes—the Lyskamm and the Breithorn. Behind was the Bernese +Oberland governed by the Finsteraarhorn, and then the Simplon +and St. Gothard groups; the Disgrazia and the Orteler. Towards +the south we looked down to Chivasso on the plain of Piedmont, +and far beyond. The Viso—one hundred miles away—seemed +close upon us; the Maritime Alps—one hundred and thirty miles +distant—were free from haze. Then came my first love—the Pelvoux; +the Ecrins and the Meije; the clusters of the Graians; and +lastly, in the west, gorgeous in the full sunlight, rose the monarch +of all—Mont Blanc. Ten thousand feet beneath us were the green +fields of Zermatt, dotted with chalets, from which blue smoke rose +lazily. Eight thousand feet below, on the other side, were the +pastures of Breil. There were black and gloomy forests, bright +and cheerful meadows; bounding waterfalls and tranquil lakes; +fertile lands and savage wastes; sunny plains and frigid <hi rend='italic'>plateaux</hi>. +There were the most rugged forms, and the most graceful outlines—bold, +perpendicular cliffs, and gentle, undulating slopes; +rocky mountains and snowy mountains, sombre and solemn, or +glittering and white, with walls—turrets—pinnacles—pyramids—domes—cones—and +spires! There was every combination that +the world can give, and every contrast that the heart could desire. +</p> + +<p> +We remained on the summit for one hour— +</p> + +<lg> +<l><q>One crowded hour of glorious life.</q></l> +</lg> + +<p> +It passed away too quickly, and we began to prepare for the +descent. +</p><pb n='284'/><anchor id='Pg284'/><anchor id="fig81"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE ACTUAL SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1865.]</p> + </then><else> + <p rend="page-break-before: always"><figure url="images/illus327.png" rend="w80"> + <head rend="ill">THE ACTUAL SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1865.</head> +<figDesc>Illustration: The actual summit of the Matterhorn in 1865</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +</div><div type="chapter"> + +<index index="toc" level1="Chapter XX. Descent of the Matterhorn"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Chapter XX. Descent of the Matterhorn"/> +<head>CHAPTER XX.</head> + +<head type="sub">DESCENT OF THE MATTERHORN.<note place="foot">The substance of Chapter XX. appeared in a letter in the <hi rend='italic'>Times</hi>, August 8, +1865. A few paragraphs have now been added, and a few corrections have been made. +The former will help to make clear that which was obscure in the original account, +and the latter are, mostly, unimportant.</note></head> + +<p> +Hudson and I again consulted as to the best and safest arrangement +of the party. We agreed that it would be best for Croz to +go first,<note place="foot">If the members of the party had been more equally efficient, Croz would have +been placed <hi rend='italic'>last</hi>.</note> and Hadow second; Hudson, who was almost equal to a +guide in sureness of foot, wished to be third; Lord F. Douglas was +placed next, and old Peter, the strongest of the remainder, after +him. I suggested to Hudson that we should attach a rope to the +rocks on our arrival at the difficult bit, and hold it as we descended, +as an additional protection. He approved the idea, but it was not +definitely settled that it should be done. The party was being +<pb n='285'/><anchor id='Pg285'/>arranged in the above order whilst I was sketching the summit, +and they had finished, and were waiting for me to be tied in line, +when some one remembered that our names had not been left in a +bottle. They requested me to write them down, and moved off +while it was being done. +</p> + +<p> +A few minutes afterwards I tied myself to young Peter, ran +down after the others, and caught them just as they were commencing +the descent of the difficult part.<note place="foot">Described upon <ref target="Pg277">pp. 277</ref>-8.</note> Great care was being +taken. Only one man was moving at a time; when he was firmly +planted the next advanced, and so on. They had not, however, +attached the additional rope to rocks, and nothing was said about +it. The suggestion was not made for my own sake, and I am not +sure that it even occurred to me again. For some little distance +we two followed the others, detached from them, and should have +continued so had not Lord F. Douglas asked me, about 3 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi>, to +tie on to old Peter, as he feared, he said, that Taugwalder would +not be able to hold his ground if a slip occurred. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +A few minutes later, a sharp-eyed lad ran into the Monte Rosa +hotel, to Seiler, saying that he had seen an avalanche fall from +the summit of the Matterhorn on to the Matterhorngletscher. +The boy was reproved for telling idle stories; he was right, +nevertheless, and this was what he saw. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +Michel Croz had laid aside his axe, and in order to give Mr. +Hadow greater security, was absolutely taking hold of his legs, and +putting his feet, one by one, into their proper positions.<note place="foot">Not at all an unusual proceeding, even between born mountaineers. I wish +to convey the impression that Croz was using all pains, rather than to indicate +extreme inability on the part of Mr. Hadow. The insertion of the word <q>absolutely</q> +makes the passage, perhaps, rather ambiguous. I retain it now, in order to offer the +above explanation.</note> As far as +I know, no one was actually descending. I cannot speak with +certainty, because the two leading men were partially hidden from +my sight by an intervening mass of rock, but it is my belief, from +<pb n='286'/><anchor id='Pg286'/>the movements of their shoulders, that Croz, having done as I have +said, was in the act of turning round to go down a step or two himself; +at this moment Mr. Hadow slipped, fell against him, and +knocked him over. I heard one startled exclamation from Croz, +then saw him and Mr. Hadow flying downwards; in another +moment Hudson was dragged from his steps, and Lord F. Douglas +immediately after him.<note place="foot"><p> +At the moment of the accident, Croz, Hadow, and Hudson, were all close together. +Between Hudson and Lord F. Douglas the rope was all but taut, and the same +between all the others, who were <hi rend='italic'>above</hi>. Croz was standing by the side of a rock +which afforded good hold, and if he had been aware, or had suspected, that anything +was about to occur, he might and would have gripped it, and would have prevented +any mischief. He was taken totally by surprise. Mr. Hadow slipped off his feet +on to his back, his feet struck Croz in the small of the back, and knocked him right +over, head first. Croz’s axe was out of his reach, yet without it he managed to get +his head uppermost before he disappeared from our sight. If it had been in his +hand I have no doubt that he would have stopped himself and Mr. Hadow. +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Hadow, at the moment of his slip, was not occupying a bad position. He +could have moved either up or down, and could touch with his hand the rock of +which I have spoken. Hudson was not so well placed, but he had liberty of motion. +The rope was not taut from him to Hadow, and the two men fell ten or twelve feet +before the jerk came upon him. Lord F. Douglas was not favourably placed, and +could neither move up nor down. Old Peter was firmly planted, and stood just +beneath a large rock which he hugged with both arms. I enter into these details to +make it more apparent that the position occupied by the party at the moment of the +accident was not by any means excessively trying. We were compelled to pass over +the exact spot where the slip occurred, and we found—even with shaken nerves—that +<hi rend='italic'>it</hi> was not a difficult place to pass. I have described the <hi rend='italic'>slope generally</hi> as difficult, +and it is so undoubtedly to most persons; but it must be distinctly understood +that Mr. Hadow slipped at an easy part. +</p></note> All this was the work of a moment. +Immediately we heard Croz’s exclamation, old Peter and I planted +ourselves as firmly as the rocks would permit:<note place="foot">Or, more correctly, we held on as tightly as possible. There was no time to +change our position.</note> the rope was taut +between us, and the jerk came on us both as on one man. We +held; but the rope broke midway between Taugwalder and Lord +Francis Douglas. For a few seconds we saw our unfortunate companions +sliding downwards on their backs, and spreading out their +<pb n='287'/><anchor id='Pg287'/>hands, endeavouring to save themselves. They passed from our +sight uninjured, disappeared one by one, and fell from precipice +to precipice on to the Matterhorngletscher below, a distance of +nearly 4000 feet in height. From the moment the rope broke it +was impossible to help them. +</p><anchor id="fig82"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: ROPE BROKEN ON THE MATTERHORN.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus330.png" rend="w60"> + <head rend="ill">ROPE BROKEN ON THE MATTERHORN.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: Rope broken on the Matterhorn</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +So perished our comrades! For the space of half-an-hour we +remained on the spot without moving a single step. The two +men, paralysed by terror, cried like infants, and trembled in such +a manner as to threaten us with the fate of the others. Old Peter +rent the air with exclamations of <q>Chamounix! Oh, what will +Chamounix say?</q> He meant, Who would believe that Croz +could fall? The young man did nothing but scream or sob, <q>We +are lost! we are lost!</q> Fixed between +the two, I could neither +move up nor down. I begged +young Peter to descend, but he +dared not. Unless he did, we could +not advance. Old Peter became +alive to the danger, and swelled +the cry, <q>We are lost! we are +lost!</q> The father’s fear was +natural—he trembled for his son; +the young man’s fear was cowardly—he +thought of self alone. +At last old Peter summoned up +courage, and changed his position +to a rock to which he could fix +the rope; the young man then descended, +and we all stood together. +Immediately we did so, I asked for the rope which had given way, +and found, to my surprise—indeed, to my horror—that it was the +weakest of the three ropes. It was not brought, and should not +have been employed, for the purpose for which it was used. It +was old rope, and, compared with the others, was feeble. It was +<pb n='288'/><anchor id='Pg288'/>intended as a reserve, in case we had to leave much rope behind, +attached to rocks. I saw at once that a serious question was +involved, and made him give me the end. It had broken in mid-air, +and it did not appear to have sustained previous injury. +</p> + +<p> +For more than two hours afterwards I thought almost every +moment that the next would be my last; for the Taugwalders, +utterly unnerved, were not only incapable of giving assistance, but +were in such a state that a slip might have been expected from +them at any moment. After a time we were able to do that which +should have been done at first, and fixed rope to firm rocks, in +addition to being tied together. These ropes were cut from time +to time, and were left behind.<note place="foot">These ends, I believe, are still attached to the rocks, and mark our line of +ascent and descent. I saw one of them in 1873.</note> Even with their assurance the +men were sometimes afraid to proceed, and several times old Peter +turned with ashy face and faltering limbs, and said, with terrible +emphasis, <q><hi rend='italic'>I cannot!</hi></q> +</p> +<anchor id="plate12"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: FOG-BOW SEEN FROM THE MATTERHORN ON JULY 14, 1865. +<lb/> +<q>THE TAUGWALDERS THOUGHT THAT IT HAD SOME CONNECTION WITH THE ACCIDENT</q>]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus332.jpg" rend="w100"> + <head rend="ill">FOG-BOW SEEN FROM THE MATTERHORN ON JULY 14, 1865. +<lb/> +<q>THE TAUGWALDERS THOUGHT THAT IT HAD SOME CONNECTION WITH THE ACCIDENT</q></head> +<figDesc>Illustration: Fog-bow, seen from the Matterhorn on July 14, 1865</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +About 6 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> we arrived at the snow upon the ridge descending +towards Zermatt, and all peril was over. We frequently looked, +but in vain, for traces of our unfortunate companions; we bent +over the ridge and cried to them, but no sound returned. Convinced +at last that they were neither within sight nor hearing, we +ceased from our useless efforts; and, too cast down for speech, +silently gathered up our things, and the little effects of those who +were lost, preparatory to continuing the descent. When, lo! a +mighty arch appeared, rising above the Lyskamm, high into the +sky. Pale, colourless, and noiseless, but perfectly sharp and defined, +except where it was lost in the clouds, this unearthly apparition +seemed like a vision from another world; and, almost appalled, +we watched with amazement the gradual development of two vast +crosses, one on either side. If the Taugwalders had not been the +first to perceive it, I should have doubted my senses. They +thought it had some connection with the accident, and I, after a +while, that it might bear some relation to ourselves. But our +<pb n='289'/><anchor id='Pg289'/>movements had no effect upon it. The spectral forms remained +motionless. It was a fearful and wonderful sight; unique in my +experience, and impressive beyond description, coming at such a +moment.<note place="foot"><p>I paid very little attention to this remarkable phenomenon, and was glad when +it disappeared, as it distracted our attention. Under ordinary circumstances I should +have felt vexed afterwards at not having observed with greater precision an +occurrence so rare and so wonderful. I can add very little about it to that which is +said above. The sun was directly at our backs; that is to say, the fog-bow was +opposite to the sun. The time was 6.30 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> The forms were at once tender and +sharp; neutral in tone; were developed gradually, and disappeared suddenly. The +mists were light (that is, not dense), and were dissipated in the course of the +evening. +</p> +<p> +It has been suggested that the crosses are incorrectly figured in the accompanying +view, and that they were probably formed by the +intersection of other circles or ellipses, as shown in +the annexed diagram. I think this suggestion is +very likely correct; but I have preferred to follow +my original memorandum. +</p><anchor id="ill289"/> +<anchor id="fig83"/><figure url="images/illus334.png" rend="w40"> + <figDesc>Illustration: Diagram of fog-bow</figDesc> +</figure> +<p> +In Parry’s <hi rend='italic'>Narrative of an Attempt to reach the +North Pole</hi>, 4to, 1828, there is, at pp. 99-100, an +account of the occurrence of a phenomenon analogous +to the above-mentioned one. <q>At half-past +five <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> we witnessed a very beautiful natural +phenomenon. A broad white fog-bow first appeared +opposite to the sun, as was very commonly the case,</q> etc. I follow Parry in using +the term fog-bow. +</p> + +<p> +It may be observed that, upon the descent of the Italian guides (whose expedition +is noticed upon <ref target="Pg282">p. 282</ref>, and again in the <ref target="Pg304">Appendix</ref>), upon July 17, 1865, the +phenomenon commonly termed the Brocken was observed. The following is the +account given by the Abbé Amé Gorret in the <hi rend='italic'>Feuille d’Aoste</hi>, October 31, 1865:—<q>Nous +étions sur l’épaule (the <q>shoulder</q>) quand nous remarquâmes un phénomène +qui nous fit plaisir; le nuage était très-dense du côté de Valtornanche, c’était serein +en Suisse; nous nous vîmes au milieu d’un cercle aux couleurs de l’arc-en-ciel; ce +mirage nous formait à tous une couronne au milieu de laquelle nous voyions notre +ombre.</q> This occurred at about 6.30 to 7 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi>, and the Italians in question were at +about the same height as ourselves—namely, 14,000 feet. +</p></note> +</p> + +<p> +I was ready to leave, and waiting for the others. They had +recovered their appetites and the use of their tongues. They +spoke in patois, which I did not understand. At length the son +<pb n='290'/><anchor id='Pg290'/>said in French, <q>Monsieur.</q> <q>Yes.</q> <q>We are poor men; we have +lost our Herr; we shall not get paid; we can ill afford this.</q><note place="foot">They had been travelling with, and had been engaged by, Lord F. Douglas, +and so considered him their employer, and responsible to them.</note> +<q>Stop!</q> I said, interrupting him, <q>that is nonsense; I shall pay +you, of course, just as if your Herr were here.</q> They talked +together in their patois for a short time, and then the son spoke +again. <q>We don’t wish you to pay us. We wish you to write in +the hotel-book at Zermatt, and to your journals, that we have not +been paid.</q> <q>What nonsense are you talking? I don’t understand +you. What do you mean?</q> He proceeded—<q>Why, next year +there will be many travellers at Zermatt, and we shall get more +<hi rend='italic'>voyageurs</hi>.</q><note place="foot">Transcribed from the original memorandum.</note> +</p><anchor id="fig84"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: MONSIEUR ALEX. SEILER.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus335.png" rend="w40"><head rend="ill">MONSIEUR ALEX. SEILER.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: Portrait of Monsieur Alex. Seiler</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +Who would answer such a proposition? I made them no reply +in words,<note place="foot">Nor did I speak to them afterwards, unless it was absolutely necessary, so long +as we were together.</note> but they knew very well the indignation that I felt. +They filled the cup of bitterness to overflowing, and I tore down +the cliff, madly and recklessly, in a way that caused them, more +than once, to inquire if I wished to kill them. Night fell; and +for an hour the descent was continued in +the darkness. At half-past 9 a resting-place +was found, and upon a wretched +slab, barely large enough to hold the three, +we passed six miserable hours. At daybreak +the descent was resumed, and from +the Hörnli ridge we ran down to the +chalets of Buhl, and on to Zermatt. +Seiler met me at his door, and followed +in silence to my room. <q>What is the +matter?</q> <q>The Taugwalders and I have +returned.</q> He did not need more, and +burst into tears; but lost no time in useless lamentations, and set +to work to arouse the village. Ere long a score of men had started +<pb n='291'/><anchor id='Pg291'/>to ascend the Hohlicht heights, above Kalbermatt and Z’Mutt, +which commanded the plateau of the Matterhorngletscher. They +returned after six hours, and reported that they had seen the bodies +lying motionless on the snow. This was on Saturday; and they +proposed that we should leave on Sunday evening, so as to arrive +upon the plateau at daybreak on Monday. Unwilling to lose the +slightest chance, the Rev. J. M’Cormick and I resolved to start on +Sunday morning. The Zermatt men, threatened with excommunication +by their priests if they failed to attend the early mass, were +unable to accompany us. To several of them, at least, this was a +severe trial. Peter Perrn declared with tears that nothing else +would have prevented him from joining in the search for his old +comrades. Englishmen came to our aid. The Rev. J. Robertson +and Mr. J. Phillpotts offered themselves, and their guide Franz +Andermatten;<note place="foot">A portrait of Franz Andermatten is given in the <ref target="plate09">engraving facing p. 202</ref>.</note> another Englishman lent us Joseph Marie and +Alexandre Lochmatter. Frédéric Payot and Jean Tairraz, of +Chamounix, also volunteered. +</p> + +<p> +We started at 2 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> on Sunday the 16th, and followed the +route that we had taken on the previous Thursday as far as the +Hörnli. From thence we went down to the right of the ridge,<note place="foot">To the point marked <hi rend='antiqua'>Z</hi> on the map.</note> +and mounted through the <hi rend='italic'>séracs</hi> of the Matterhorngletscher. By +8.30 we had got to the plateau at the top of the glacier, and +within sight of the corner in which we knew my companions must +be.<note place="foot">Marked with a cross on the map.</note> As we saw one weather-beaten man after another raise the +telescope, turn deadly pale, and pass it on without a word to the +next, we knew that all hope was gone. We approached. They +had fallen below as they had fallen above—Croz a little in advance, +Hadow near him, and Hudson some distance behind; but of Lord +F. Douglas we could see nothing.<note place="foot">A pair of gloves, a belt, and boot that had belonged to him, were found. This, +somehow, became publicly known, and gave rise to wild notions, which would not +have been entertained had it been also known that the <hi rend='italic'>whole</hi> of the boots of those +who had fallen <hi rend='italic'>were off</hi>, and were lying upon the snow near the bodies.</note> We left them where they fell; +<pb n='292'/><anchor id='Pg292'/>buried in snow at the base of the grandest cliff of the most +majestic mountain of the Alps. +</p><anchor id="fig85"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE MANILLA ROPE.<note place="foot">The three ropes have been reduced by photography to the same scale.</note>]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus337.png" rend="w60"> + <head rend="ill">THE MANILLA ROPE.<note place="foot">The three ropes have been reduced by photography to the same scale.</note></head> + <figDesc>Illustration: The Manilla rope</figDesc> + </figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +All those who had fallen had been tied with the Manilla, +or with the second and equally strong rope, and, consequently, +there had been only one link—that between old Peter and Lord +F. Douglas—where the weaker rope had been used. This had a +very ugly look for Taugwalder, for it was not possible to suppose +that the others would have sanctioned the employment of a rope +so greatly inferior in strength when there were more than 250 feet +<pb n='293'/><anchor id='Pg293'/>of the better qualities still remaining out of use.<note place="foot">I was one hundred feet or more from the others whilst they were being tied up, +and am unable to throw any light on the matter. Croz and old Peter no doubt tied +up the others.</note> For the sake +of the old guide (who bore a good reputation), and upon all other +accounts, it was desirable that this matter should be cleared up; +and after my examination before the court of inquiry which was +instituted by the Government was over, I handed in a number of +questions which were framed so as to afford old Peter an opportunity +of exculpating himself from the grave suspicions which +at once fell upon him. The questions, I was told, were put +<pb n='294'/><anchor id='Pg294'/>and answered; but the answers, although promised, have never +reached me.<note place="foot"><p> +This is not the only occasion upon which M. Clemenz (who presided over the +inquiry) has failed to give up answers that he has promised. It is greatly to be +regretted that he does not feel that the suppression of the truth is equally against the +interests of travellers and of the guides. If the men are untrustworthy, the public +should be warned of the fact; but if they are blameless, why allow them to remain +under unmerited suspicion? +</p> + +<p> +Old Peter Taugwalder is a man who is labouring under an unjust accusation. +Notwithstanding repeated denials, even his comrades and neighbours at Zermatt +persist in asserting or insinuating that he <hi rend='italic'>cut</hi> the rope which led from him to Lord +F. Douglas. In regard to this infamous charge, I say that he <hi rend='italic'>could</hi> not do so at the +moment of the slip, and that the end of the rope in my possession shows that he did +not do so beforehand. There remains, however, the suspicious fact that the rope +which broke was the thinnest and weakest one that we had. It is suspicious, because +it is unlikely that any of the four men in front would have selected an old and weak +rope when there was abundance of new, and much stronger, rope to spare; and, on +the other hand, because if Taugwalder thought that an accident was likely to happen, +it was to his interest to have the weaker rope where it was placed. +</p> + +<p> +I should rejoice to learn that his answers to the questions which were put to him +were satisfactory. Not only was his act at the <anchor id="corr294"/><corr sic="crritical">critical</corr> moment wonderful as a feat +of strength, but it was admirable in its performance at the right time. I am told +that he is now nearly incapable for work—not absolutely mad, but with intellect +gone and almost crazy; which is not to be wondered at, whether we regard him as a +man who contemplated a scoundrelly meanness, or as an injured man suffering under +an unjust accusation. +</p> + +<p> +In respect to young Peter, it is not possible to speak in the same manner. The +odious idea that he propounded (which I believe emanated from <hi rend='italic'>him</hi>) he has +endeavoured to trade upon, in spite of the fact that his father was paid (for both) in +the presence of witnesses. Whatever may be his abilities as a guide, he is not one +to whom I would ever trust my life, or afford any countenance. +</p></note> +</p><anchor id="fig86"/><anchor id="fig87"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE SECOND ROPE.]</p> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE ENGLISH CHURCH AT ZERMATT.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus338.png" rend="w40"><head rend="ill">THE SECOND ROPE.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: The second rope</figDesc></figure></p> + <p><figure url="images/illus339.png" rend="w80"> + <head rend="ill">THE ENGLISH CHURCH AT ZERMATT.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: The English church at Zermatt</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p> +Meanwhile, the administration sent strict injunctions to recover +the bodies, and upon the 19th of July, twenty-one men of Zermatt +<pb n='295'/><anchor id='Pg295'/>accomplished that sad and dangerous task.<note place="foot">They followed the route laid down upon the map, and on their descent were in +great peril from the fall of a <hi rend='italic'>sérac</hi>. The character of the work they undertook may +be gathered from a reference to <ref target="Pg100">p. 100</ref>.</note> Of the body of Lord +Francis Douglas they, too, saw nothing; it is probably still +arrested on the rocks above.<note place="foot">This, or a subsequent party, discovered a sleeve. No other traces have been +found.</note> The remains of Hudson and Hadow +were interred upon the north side of the Zermatt Church, in +the presence of a reverent crowd of sympathising friends. The +body of Michel Croz lies upon the other side, under a simpler +tomb; whose inscription bears honourable testimony to his rectitude, +to his courage, and to his devotion. +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +So the traditional inaccessibility of the Matterhorn was vanquished, +and was replaced by legends of a more real character. +Others will essay to scale its proud cliffs, but to none will it +be the mountain that it was to its early explorers. Others may +tread its summit-snows, but none will ever know the feelings of +those who first gazed upon its marvellous panorama; and none, +I trust, will ever be compelled to tell of joy turned into grief, and +of laughter into mourning. It proved to be a stubborn foe; it +<pb n='296'/><anchor id='Pg296'/>resisted long, and gave many a hard blow; it was defeated at last +with an ease that none could have anticipated, but, like a relentless +enemy—conquered but not crushed—it took terrible vengeance. +The time may come when the Matterhorn shall have passed away, +and nothing, save a heap of shapeless fragments, will mark the +spot where the great mountain stood; for, atom by atom, inch by +inch, and yard by yard, it yields to forces which nothing can +withstand. That time is far distant; and, ages hence, generations +unborn will gaze upon its awful precipices, and wonder at its +unique form. However exalted may be their ideas, and however +exaggerated their expectations, none will come to return disappointed! +</p> + +<milestone unit="tb"/> + +<p> +With the Ascent of the Matterhorn, my mountaineering in the +Alps came to a close. The disastrous termination, though casting +a permanent cloud over otherwise happy memories, and leaving a +train of life-long regrets, has not altered my regard for the purest, +healthiest and most manly of sports; and, often, in grappling +with every day difficulties, sometimes in apparently hopeless +tasks, encouragement has been found in the remembrance of +hard-won victories over stubborn Alps. +</p> + +<p> +We who go mountain-scrambling have constantly set before us +the superiority of fixed purpose or perseverance to brute force. +We know that each height, each step, must be gained by patient, +laborious toil, and that wishing cannot take the place of working; +we know the benefits of mutual aid; that many a difficulty must +be encountered, and many an obstacle must be grappled with or +turned, but we know that where there’s a will there’s a way: and +we come back to our daily occupations better fitted to fight the +battle of life, and to overcome the impediments which obstruct our +paths, strengthened and cheered by the recollection of past labours, +and by the memories of victories gained in other fields. +</p> + +<p> +I have not made myself an apologist for mountaineering, nor +do I now intend to usurp the functions of a moralist; but my +<pb n='297'/><anchor id='Pg297'/>task would have been ill performed if it had been concluded +without one reference to the more serious lessons of the mountaineer. +We glory in the physical regeneration which is the product +of our exertions; we exult over the grandeur of the scenes +that are brought before our eyes, the splendours of sunrise and +sunset, and the beauties of hill, dale, lake, wood, and waterfall; +but we value more highly the development of manliness, and the +evolution, under combat with difficulties, of those noble qualities +of human nature—courage, patience, endurance, and fortitude. +</p> + +<p> +Some hold these virtues in less estimation, and assign base and +contemptible motives to those who indulge in our innocent sport. +</p> + +<lg> +<l><q>Be thou chaste as ice, as pure as snow, thou shalt not escape calumny.</q></l> +</lg> + +<p> +Others, again, who are not detractors, find mountaineering, as +a sport, to be wholly unintelligible. It is not greatly to be +wondered at—we are not all constituted alike. Mountaineering is +a pursuit essentially adapted to the young or vigorous, and not to +the old or feeble. To the latter, toil may be no pleasure; and it is +often said by such persons, <q>This man is making a toil of pleasure.</q> +Let the motto on the title-page be an answer, if an answer be +required. Toil he must who goes mountaineering; but out of the +toil comes strength (not merely muscular energy—more than that), +an awakening of all the faculties; and from the strength arises +pleasure. Then, again, it is often asked, in tones which seem to +imply that the answer must, at least, be doubtful, <q>But does it +repay you?</q> Well, we cannot estimate our enjoyment as you +measure your wine, or weigh your lead,—it is real, nevertheless. +If I could blot out every reminiscence, or erase every memory, +still I should say that my scrambles amongst the Alps have repaid +me, for they have given me two of the best things a man can +possess—health and friends. +</p> + +<p> +The recollections of past pleasures cannot be effaced. Even +now as I write they crowd up before me. First comes an endless +series of pictures, magnificent in form, effect, and colour. I see the +<pb n='298'/><anchor id='Pg298'/>great peaks, with clouded tops, seeming to mount up for ever and +ever; I hear the music of the distant herds, the peasant’s jodel, +and the solemn church-bells; and I scent the fragrant breath of +the pines: and after these have passed away, another train of +thoughts succeeds—of those who have been upright, brave, and +true; of kind hearts and bold deeds; and of courtesies received at +stranger hands, trifles in themselves, but expressive of that good +will towards men which is the essence of charity. +</p> + +<p> +Still, the last, sad memory hovers round, and sometimes drifts +across like floating mist, cutting off sunshine, and chilling the +remembrance of happier times. There have been joys too great to +be described in words, and there have been griefs upon which I +have not dared to dwell; and with these in mind I say, Climb if +you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought +without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy +the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; look well to +each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end. +</p> +<anchor id="fig88"/><figure url="images/illus343.png" rend="w80"> + <figDesc>Illustration: The end</figDesc> +</figure> +</div></body> + <back> + <div type="appendix" rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='299'/><anchor id='Pg299'/> +<index index="toc" level1="Appendix"/><index index="pdf" level1="Appendix"/> +<head>APPENDIX.</head> + +<pb n='300'/><anchor id='Pg300'/> + + <div rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='301'/><anchor id='Pg301'/> +<index index="toc" level1="A. The Death of Bennen"/><index index="pdf" level1="A. The Death of Bennen"/> +<head><hi rend='antiqua'>A.</hi> <hi rend='smallcaps'>The Death of Bennen.</hi><note place="foot">See <ref target="Pg048">p. 48</ref>.</note></head> + +<p> +On February 28, 1864, Mr. P. C. Gosset and Mr. B—— started from the +village of Ardon (about mid-way between Sion and Martigny), to make the +ascent of the Haut-de-Cry (9688 feet), with the guides J. J. Nance, F. Rebot, +A. Bevard, and J. J. Bennen. They arrived within a few hundred feet of the +summit before mid-day, and determined to complete the ascent by following +the crest of a ridge leading towards the east. Before this could be done it +was necessary to cross some steep snow; and, while passing this, an avalanche +was unfortunately started. Bennen and Mr. B—— perished; the others happily +escaped. The following narrative, from the pen of Mr. Gosset, illustrates, in a +very impressive manner, the danger of traversing new-fallen snow at considerable +inclinations:— +</p> + +<p rend="display"> +<q>We had to go up a steep snow-field, about 800 feet high, as well as I +remember. It was about 150 feet broad at the top, and 400 or 500 at the +bottom. It was a sort of couloir on a large scale. During the ascent we +sank about one foot deep at every step. Bennen did not seem to like the +look of the snow very much. He asked the local guides whether avalanches +ever came down this couloir, to which they answered that our position was +perfectly safe. We had mounted on the northern side of the couloir, and +having arrived at 150 feet from the top, we began crossing it on a horizontal +curve, so as to gain the E. arête. The inflexion or dip of the couloir was +slight, not above 25 feet, the inclination near 35°. We were walking in the +following order:—Bevard, Nance, Bennen, myself, B., and Rebot. Having +crossed over about three-quarters of the breadth of the couloir, the two leading +men suddenly sank considerably above their waists. Bennen tightened the +rope. The snow was too deep to think of getting out of the hole they had +made, so they advanced one or two steps, dividing the snow with their +bodies. Bennen turned round and told us he was afraid of starting an avalanche; +we asked whether it would not be better to return and cross the +couloir higher up. To this the three Ardon men opposed themselves; they +mistook the proposed precaution for fear, and the two leading men continued +their work. After three or four steps gained in the aforesaid manner, the +snow became hard again. Bennen had not moved—he was evidently undecided +what he should do; as soon, however, as he saw hard snow again, he +advanced and crossed parallel to, but above, the furrow the Ardon men had +made. Strange to say, the snow supported him. While he was passing I +observed that the leader, Bevard, had ten or twelve feet of rope coiled round +his shoulder. I of course at once told him to uncoil it and get on the arête, +from which he was not more than fifteen feet distant. Bennen then told me +to follow. I tried his steps, but sank up to my waist in the very first. So +I went through the furrows, holding my elbows close to my body, so as not +to touch the sides. This furrow was about twelve feet long, and as the snow +was good on the other side, we had all come to the false conclusion that + <pb n='302'/><anchor id='Pg302'/>the snow was accidentally softer there than elsewhere. Bennen advanced; +he had made but a few steps when we heard a deep, cutting sound. The +snow-field split in two about fourteen or fifteen feet above us. The cleft +was at first quite narrow, not more than an inch broad. An awful silence +ensued; it lasted but a few seconds, and then it was broken by Bennen’s +voice, <q>We are all lost.</q> His words were slow and solemn, and those who +knew him felt what they really meant when spoken by such a man as Bennen. +They were his last words. I drove my alpenstock into the snow, and brought +the weight of my body to bear on it. I then waited. It was an awful moment +of suspense. I turned my head towards Bennen to see whether he had done +the same thing. To my astonishment I saw him turn round, face the valley, +and stretch out both arms. The snow on which we stood began to move +slowly, and I felt the utter uselessness of any alpenstock. I soon sank up to +my shoulders, and began descending backwards. From this moment I saw +nothing of what had happened to the rest of the party. With a good deal of +trouble I succeeded in turning round. The speed of the avalanche increased +rapidly, and before long I was covered up with snow. I was suffocating when +I suddenly came to the surface again. I was on a wave of the avalanche, +and saw it before me as I was carried down. It was the most awful sight I +ever saw. The head of the avalanche was already at the spot where we +had made our last halt. The head alone was preceded by a thick cloud of +snow-dust; the rest of the avalanche was clear. Around me I heard the +horrid hissing of the snow, and far before me the thundering of the foremost +part of the avalanche. To prevent myself sinking again, I made use of my +arms much in the same way as when swimming in a standing position. At last +I noticed that I was moving slower; then I saw the pieces of snow in front +of me stop at some yards’ distance; then the snow straight before me stopped, +and I heard on a large scale the same creaking sound that is produced when +a heavy cart passes over frozen snow in winter. I felt that I also had stopped, +and instantly threw up both arms to protect my head in case I should again +be covered up. I had stopped, but the snow behind me was still in motion; +its pressure on my body was so strong, that I thought I should be crushed +to death. This tremendous pressure lasted but a short time; I was covered +up by snow coming from behind me. My first impulse was to try and uncover +my head—but this I could not do, the avalanche had frozen by pressure +the moment it stopped, and I was frozen in. Whilst trying vainly to move +my arms, I suddenly became aware that the hands as far as the wrist had +the faculty of motion. The conclusion was easy, they must be above the +snow. I set to work as well as I could; it was time, for I could not have +held out much longer. At last I saw a faint glimmer of light. The crust +above my head was getting thinner, but I could not reach it any more with +my hands; the idea struck me that I might pierce it with my breath. After +several efforts I succeeded in doing so, and felt suddenly a rush of air towards +my mouth. I saw the sky again through a little round hole. A dead silence +reigned around me; I was so surprised to be still alive, and so persuaded at +the first moment that none of my fellow-sufferers had survived, that I did not +even think of shouting for them. I then made vain efforts to extricate my arms, +<pb n='303'/><anchor id='Pg303'/>but found it impossible; the most I could do was to join the ends of my +fingers, but they could not reach the snow any longer. After a few minutes +I heard a man shouting; what a relief it was to know that I was not the +sole survivor! to know that perhaps he was not frozen in and could come to +my assistance! I answered; the voice approached, but seemed uncertain where +to go, and yet it was now quite near. A sudden exclamation of surprise! +Rebot had seen my hands. He cleared my head in an instant, and was about +to try and cut me out completely, when I saw a foot above the snow, and so +near to me that I could touch it with my arms, although they were not quite +free yet. I at once tried to move the foot; it was my poor friend’s. A pang +of agony shot through me as I saw that the foot did not move. Poor B. had +lost sensation, and was perhaps already dead. Rebot did his best: after some +time he wished me to help him, so he freed my arms a little more so that +I could make use of them. I could do but little, for Rebot had torn the axe +from my shoulder as soon as he had cleared my head (I generally carry an +axe separate from my alpenstock—the blade tied to the belt, and the handle +attached to the left shoulder). Before coming to me Rebot had helped Nance +out of the snow; he was lying nearly horizontally, and was not much covered +over. Nance found Bevard, who was upright in the snow, but covered up to +the head. After about twenty minutes the two last-named guides came up. +I was at length taken out; the snow had to be cut with the axe down to +my feet before I could be pulled out. A few minutes after one o’clock <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> +we came to my poor friend’s face.... I wished the body to be taken out +completely, but nothing could induce the three guides to work any longer, from +the moment they saw that it was too late to save him. I acknowledge that they +were nearly as incapable of doing anything as I was. When I was taken out of +the snow the cord had to be cut. We tried the end going towards Bennen, but +could not move it; it went nearly straight down, and showed us that there was +the grave of the bravest guide the Valais ever had, and ever will have. The cold +had done its work on us; we could stand it no longer, and began the descent.</q> +</p> + </div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="B. Struck by Lightning upon the Matterhorn"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="B. Struck by Lightning upon the Matterhorn"/> +<head><hi rend='antiqua'>B.</hi> <hi rend='smallcaps'>Struck by Lightning upon the Matterhorn.</hi><note place="foot">See <ref target="Pg120">p. 120</ref>.</note></head> + +<p> +[Mr. B. B. Heathcote, of Chingford, Essex, whilst attempting to ascend the +Matterhorn by the southern route, was unfortunately used as a lightning-conductor, +when he was within 500 feet of the summit of the mountain. It may +be observed that the Matterhorn (like all isolated Alpine rock summits) is +frequently struck by lightning. Signor Giordano has pointed out elsewhere +that he found numerous traces of electric discharges upon its summit.]<note place="foot">Malte-Brun’s <hi rend='italic'>Annales des Voyages</hi>, April 1869.</note> +</p> + +<p rend="display"> +<q>On July 30, 1869, in company with Peter Perrn,<note place="foot">Peter Perrn, the well-known guide, died at Zermatt in the winter of 1873-4.</note> Peter Taugwalder +junior, and Jos. Maquignaz, I commenced the ascent. The atmosphere was +clear, and the wind southerly. When very near to the summit an extremely +loud thunder-clap was heard, and we thought it prudent to descend. We commenced +the descent in the following order:—Taugwalder first, myself next, +<pb n='304'/><anchor id='Pg304'/>then Perrn, and Maquignaz last. On approaching the Col do Felicité<note place="foot">A place on the final peak, about half-way between the <q>Shoulder</q> and the summit.</note> I received +a sharp, stinging blow on the leg, and thought, at first, that a stone had +been dislodged; but a loud thunder-clap at once told me what it was. Perrn +also said that he had been hit on the leg. In a few moments I received a hit +on the right arm, which seemed to run along it, and resembled a shock from +a galvanic battery. At the same time all the men gave a startled shriek, and +exclaimed that they were hit by lightning. The storm continued near us for +some little time, and then gradually died away. On arriving at the <hi rend='italic'>cabane</hi> I +found that Perrn had a long sore on his arm; next morning his leg was much +swollen and very weak. We descended to Breil on the following day, and +crossed to Zermatt. The same day my hand began to swell, and it continued +very weak for about a week. Maquignaz’s neck was much swollen on each side; +the lightning hitting him (according to his account) on the back, and upon each +side of the neck. Taugwalder’s leg was also slightly swollen. The thunder was +tremendous—louder than I have ever heard it before. There was no wind, nor +rain, and everything was in a mist.</q> +</p> + </div><div> + <index index="toc" level1="C. Note To Chapter VII"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="C. Note To Chapter VII"/> +<head><hi rend='antiqua'>C.</hi> <hi rend='smallcaps'>Note To Chapter VII.</hi></head> + +<p> +It was stated in the <ref target="Pg124">commencement of this chapter</ref> that the Pointe des +Ecrins was the highest mountain in France. I have learned, since that paragraph +was written, that Captain Mieulet has determined that the height of the +Aiguille Verte is 13,540 feet; that mountain is consequently 78 feet higher +than the Pointe des Ecrins, and is the highest in France. +</p> + </div><div> +<index index="toc" level1="D. Subsequent History of the Matterhorn"/><index index="pdf" level1="D. Subsequent History of the Matterhorn"/> +<head><hi rend='antiqua'>D.</hi> <hi rend='smallcaps'>Subsequent History of the Matterhorn.</hi><note place="foot">We resume here the account of the proceedings of the Italians who started from +Breil on the 11th of July 1865. See <ref target="Pg269">p. 269</ref>.</note></head> + +<p> +The Val Tournanche natives who started to facilitate the way up the south-west +ridge of the Matterhorn for MM. Giordano and Sella, pitched their tent +upon my third platform, at the foot of the Great Tower (12,992 feet), and +enjoyed several days of bad weather under its shelter. On the first fine day +(13th of July) they began their work, and about midday on the 14th got on to +the <q>shoulder,</q> and arrived at the base of the final peak (the point where Bennen +stopped on July 28, 1862). The counsels of the party were then divided. Two—Jean-Antoine +Carrel and Joseph Maquignaz—wished to go on; the others +were not eager about it. A discussion took place, and the result was they all +commenced to descend, and whilst upon the <q>cravate</q> (13,524) they heard our +cries from the summit.<note place="foot">The foregoing particulars were related to me by J.-A. Carrel.</note> Upon the 15th they went down to Breil and reported +their ill-success to M. Giordano (see <ref target="Pg281">p. 281</ref>). That gentleman was naturally +much disappointed, and pressed the men to set out again.<note place="foot">The following details are taken from the account of the Abbé Amé Gorret (published +in the <hi rend='italic'>Feuille d’Aoste</hi>, Oct. 1865), who was at Breil when the men returned.</note> Said he, <q>Until +now I have striven for the honour of making the first ascent,—fate has decided +<pb n='305'/><anchor id='Pg305'/>against me,—I am beaten. Patience! Now, if I make further sacrifices it will +be on your account, for your honour, and for your interests. Will you start +again to settle the question, or, at least, to let there be no more uncertainty?</q> +The majority of the men (in fact the whole of them with the exception of Jean-Antoine) +refused point-blank to have anything more to do with the mountain. +Carrel, however, stepped forward, saying, <q>As for me, I have not given it up; +if you (turning to the Abbé Gorret) or the others will come, I will start again +immediately.</q> <q>Not I!</q> said one. <q>No more for me,</q> cried a second. <q>If +you would give me a thousand francs I would not go back,</q> said a third. The +Abbé Gorret alone volunteered. This plucky priest was concerned in the very +first attempts upon the mountain,<note place="foot">See Appendix <hi rend='antiqua'>E</hi>, <ref target="Pg315">attempt No. 1</ref>.</note> and is an enthusiastic mountaineer. Carrel +and the Abbé would have set out by themselves had not J. B. Bich and J.-A. +Meynet (two men in the employ of Favre the innkeeper) come forward at the +last moment. M. Giordano also wished to accompany them, but the men knew +the nature of the work they had to undertake, and positively declined to be +accompanied by an amateur. +</p> + +<p> +These four men left Breil at 6.30 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> on July 16, at 1 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> arrived at the +third tent-platform, and there passed the night. At daybreak on the 17th they +continued the ascent by the route which had been taken before; passed successively +the Great Tower, the <q>crête du coq,</q> the <q>cravate,</q> and the <q>shoulder,</q><note place="foot">These terms, as well as the others, Great Staircase, Col du Lion, Tête du Lion, +Chimney, and so forth, were applied by Carrel and myself to the various points, in +consequence of real or supposed resemblances in the rocks to other things. A few of +the terms originated with the Author, but they are chiefly due to the inventive genius +of J.-A. Carrel.</note> +and at 10 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> gained the point at the foot of the final peak from which the +explorers had turned back on the 14th.<note place="foot">This point is marked by the red letter <hi rend='antiqua'>E</hi> upon the lower of the + <ref target="plate02">two outlines facing p. 44</ref>.</note> They had then about 800 feet to +accomplish, and, says the Abbé, <q>nous allions entrer en pays inconnu, aucun +n’étant jamais allé aussi loin.</q> +</p> + +<p> +The passage of the cleft which stopped Bennen was accomplished, and then +the party proceeded directly towards the summit, over rocks which for some +distance were not particularly difficult. The steep cliffs down which we had +hurled stones (on the 14th) then stopped their way, and Carrel led round to the +left or Z’Mutt side. The work at this part was of the very greatest difficulty, +and stones and icicles which fell rendered the position of the party very +precarious;<note place="foot">I have seen icicles more than a hundred feet long hanging from the rocks near the +summit of the Matterhorn.</note> so much so that they preferred to turn up directly towards the +summit, and climb by rocks that the Abbé termed <q>almost perpendicular.</q> +He added, <q>This part occupied the most time, and gave us the greatest +trouble.</q> At length they arrived at a fault in the rocks which formed a +roughly horizontal gallery. They crept along this in the direction of a ridge +that descended towards the north-west, or thereabouts, and when close to the +<pb n='306'/><anchor id='Pg306'/>ridge, found that they could not climb on to it; but they perceived that, by +descending a gully with perpendicular sides, they could reach the ridge at a +lower point. The bold Abbé was the heaviest and the strongest of the four, and +he was sacrificed for the success of the expedition. He and Meynet remained +behind, and lowered the others, one by one, into the gully. Carrel and Bich +clambered up the other side, attained the ridge descending towards the north-west, +shortly afterwards gained an <q>easy route, they galloped,</q><note place="foot">The words of the Abbé. I imagine that he meant <hi rend='italic'>comparatively easy</hi>.</note> and in a few +minutes reached the southern end of the summit-ridge. +</p> + +<p> +The time of their arrival does not appear to have been noticed. It was +late in the day, I believe about 3 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> Carrel and his comrade only waited +long enough to plant a flag by the side of the cairn that we had built three +days previously, then descended at once, rejoined the others, and all four hurried +down as fast as possible to the tent. They were so pressed for time that they +could not eat! and it was 9 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> before they arrived at their camp at the foot of +the Great Tower. In descending they followed the gallery above mentioned +throughout its entire length, and so avoided the very difficult rocks over which +they had passed on the ascent. As they were traversing the length of the +<q>shoulder</q> they witnessed the phenomenon to which I have already adverted +at the foot of <ref target="Pg289">p. 289</ref>. +</p> + +<p> +When Carrel and Bich were near the summit they saw our traces upon +the Matterhorngletscher, and suspected that an accident had occurred; they +did not, however, hear of the Matterhorn catastrophe until their return to Breil, +at 3 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> upon the 18th. The details of that sad event were in the mouths of +all, and it was not unnaturally supposed, in the absence of correct information, +that the accident was a proof that the northern side was frightfully dangerous. +The safe return of the four Italians was regarded, on the other hand, as evidence +that the Breil route was the best. Those who were interested (either personally +or otherwise) in the Val Tournanche made the most of the circumstances, and +trumpeted the praises of the southern route. Some went farther, and instituted +comparisons between the two routes to the disadvantage of the northern one, +and were pleased to term our expedition on the 13-14th of July precipitate, and +so forth. Considering the circumstances which caused us to leave the Val +Tournanche on the 12th of July, these remarks were not in the best possible +taste, but I have no feeling regarding them. There may be some, however, who +may be interested in a comparison of the two routes, and for their sakes I will +place the essential points in juxtaposition. We (that is the Taugwalders and +myself) were absent from Zermatt 53 hours. Excluding halts and stoppages of +one sort or another, the ascent and descent occupied us 23 hours. Zermatt is +5315 feet above the level of the sea, and the Matterhorn is 14,780; we had +therefore to ascend 9465 feet. As far as the point marked 10,820 feet the +way was known, so we had to find the way over only 3960 feet. The members +of our party (I now include all) were very unequal in ability, and none of us +could for a moment be compared as cragsmen with Jean-Antoine Carrel. The +four Italians who started from Breil on the 16th of July were absent during +<pb n='307'/><anchor id='Pg307'/>56½ hours, and as far as I can gather from the published account, and from +conversation with the men, excluding halts, they took for the ascent and +descent 23¾ hours. The hotel at Breil is 6890 feet above the sea, so they had +to ascend 7890 feet. As far as the end of the <q>shoulder</q> the way was known +to Carrel, and he had to find the way over only about 800 feet. All four +men were born mountaineers, good climbers, and they were led by the most +expert cragsman I have seen. The weather in each instance was fine. It is +seen, therefore, that these four nearly equally matched men took a <hi rend='italic'>longer</hi> time +to ascend 1500 feet <hi rend='italic'>less</hi> height than ourselves, although we had to find the +way over more than four times as much untrodden ground as they. This +alone would lead any mountaineer to suppose that their route must have been +more difficult than ours.<note place="foot">The pace of a party is ruled by that of its least efficient member.</note> I know the greater part of the ground over which +they passed, and from my knowledge, and from the account of Mr. Grove, I +am sure that their route was not only more difficult, but that it was <hi rend='italic'>much</hi> +more difficult than ours. +</p> + +<p> +This was not the opinion in the Val Tournanche at the end of 1865, and +the natives confidently reckoned that tourists would flock to their side in +preference to the other. It was, I believe, the late Canon Carrel of Aosta (who +always took great interest in such matters) who first proposed the construction +of a <hi rend='italic'>cabane</hi> upon the southern side of the Matterhorn. The project was taken +up with spirit, and funds for its execution were speedily provided—principally +by the members of the Italian Alpine Club, or by their friends. The indefatigable +Carrel found a natural hole upon the ledge called the <q>cravate</q> +(13,524), and this, in course of time, was turned, under his direction, into a +respectable little hut. Its position is superb, and gives a view of the most +magnificent character. +</p> + +<p> +Whilst this work was being carried out, my friend Mr. F. Craufurd Grove +consulted me respecting the ascent of the Matterhorn. I recommended him +to ascend by the northern route, and to place himself in the hands of Jean-Antoine +Carrel. Mr. Grove found, however, that Carrel distinctly preferred the +southern side, and they ascended accordingly by the Breil route. Mr. Grove +has been good enough to supply the following account of his expedition. He +carries on my description of the southern route from the highest point I attained +on that side (a little below the <q>cravate</q>) to the summit, and thus renders +complete my descriptions of the two sides. +</p> + +<p rend="display"> +<q rend="post: none">In August 1867 I ascended the Matterhorn from Breil, taking as guides +three mountaineers of the Val Tournanche—J. A. Carrel, J. Bich, and S. Meynet,—Carrel +being the leader. At that time the Matterhorn had not been scaled +since the famous expedition of the Italian guides mentioned above.</q> +</p> + +<p rend="display"> +<q rend="post: none">Our route was identical with that which they followed in their descent +when, as will be seen, they struck out on one part of the mountain a different +line from that which they had taken in ascending. After gaining the Col +du Lion, we climbed the south-western or Breil <hi rend='italic'>arête</hi> by the route which has +been described in these pages, passing the night at the then unfinished hut +con<pb n='308'/><anchor id='Pg308'/>structed by the Italian Alpine Club on the <q>cravate.</q> Starting from the hut +at daylight, we reached at an early hour the summit of the <q>shoulder,</q> and then +traversed its <hi rend='italic'>arête</hi> to the final peak of the Matterhorn. The passage of this +<hi rend='italic'>arête</hi> was perhaps the most enjoyable part of the whole expedition. The ridge, +worn by slow irregular decay into monstrous and rugged battlements, and +guarded on each side by tremendous precipices, is grand beyond all description, +but does not, strange to say, present any remarkable difficulty to the climber, +save that it is exceedingly trying to the head. Great care is of course necessary, +but the scramble is by no means of so arduous a nature as entirely to absorb +the attention; so that a fine climb, and rock scenery, of grandeur perhaps +unparalleled in the Alps, can both be appreciated.</q> +</p> + +<p rend="display"> +<q rend="post: none">It was near the end of this <hi rend='italic'>arête</hi>, close to the place where it abuts against +the final peak, that Professor Tyndall’s party turned in 1862,<note place="foot">See <ref target="Pg083">pp. 83</ref>-4 and <ref target="Pg090">pp. 90</ref>-1.</note> arrested by a +cleft in the ridge. From the point where they stopped the main tower of the +Matterhorn rises in front of the climber, abrupt, magnificent, and apparently +inaccessible. The summit is fully 750 feet in vertical height above this spot, +and certainly, to my eye, appeared to be separated from me by a yet more +considerable interval; for I remember, when at the end of the <hi rend='italic'>arête</hi>, looking +upward at the crest of the mountain, and thinking that it must be a good 1000 +feet above me.</q> +</p> + +<p rend="display"> +<q rend="post: none">When the Italian guides made their splendid ascent, they traversed the +<hi rend='italic'>arête</hi> of the shoulder to the main peak, passed the cleft which has been mentioned +(<ref target="Pg090">p. 90</ref>), clambered on to the tremendous north-western face of the +mountain (described by Mr. Whymper at <ref target="Pg277">pp. 277</ref> and <ref target="Pg282">282</ref>), and then endeavoured +to cross this face so as to get on to the Z’Mutt <hi rend='italic'>arête</hi>.<note place="foot">A ridge descending towards the Z’Muttgletscher.</note> The passage of +this slope proved a work of great difficulty and danger. I saw it from very +near the place which they traversed, and was unable to conceive how any +human creatures managed to crawl over rocks so steep and so treacherous. +After they had got about half-way across, they found the difficulties of the +route and the danger from falling stones so great, that they struck straight up +the mountain, in the hope of finding some safer way. They were to a certain +extent successful, for they came presently to a small ledge, caused by a sort +of fault in the rock, running horizontally across the north-western face of the +mountain a little distance below the summit. Traversing this ledge, the +Italians found themselves close to the Z’Mutt <hi rend='italic'>arête</hi>, but still separated from it +by a barrier, to outflank which it was necessary to descend a perpendicular +gully. Carrel and Bich were lowered down this, the other two men remaining +at the top to haul up their companions on their return, as otherwise they could +not have got up again. Passing on to the Z’Mutt <hi rend='italic'>arête</hi> without further difficulty, +Carrel and Bich climbed by that ridge to the summit of the mountain. +In returning, the Italians kept to the ledge for the whole distance across the +north-western face, and descended to the place where the <hi rend='italic'>arête</hi> of the shoulder +abuts against the main peak by a sort of rough ridge of rocks between the +north-western and southern faces. When I ascended in 1867, we followed this +route in the ascent and in the descent. I thought the ledge difficult, in some +places decidedly dangerous, and should not care to set foot on it again; but +<pb n='309'/><anchor id='Pg309'/>assuredly it neither is so difficult nor so continuously dangerous as those gaunt +and pitiless rock-slopes which the Italians crossed in their upward route.</q> +</p><anchor id="plate13"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE HUT (CABANE) ON THE ZERMATT SIDE OF THE MATTERHORN. +<lb/> +FROM A PHOTOGRAPH BY THE AUTHOR.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus355.jpg" rend="w100"> + <head rend="ill">THE HUT (CABANE) ON THE ZERMATT SIDE OF THE MATTERHORN. +<lb/> +FROM A PHOTOGRAPH BY THE AUTHOR.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: The hut on the Eastern face (Zermatt side) of the Matterhorn</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<p rend="display"> +<q>The credit of making the <hi rend='italic'>Italian</hi> ascent of the Matterhorn belongs undoubtedly +to J.-A. Carrel and to the other mountaineers who accompanied him. +Bennen led his party bravely and skilfully to a point some 750 feet below the +top. From this point, however, good guide though he was, Bennen had to retire +defeated; and it was reserved for the better mountain-craft of the Valtournanche +guide to win the difficult way to the summit of the Matterhorn.</q> +</p> + +<p> +Mr. Craufurd Grove was the first traveller who ascended the Matterhorn +after the accident, and the natives of Val Tournanche were, of course, greatly +delighted that his ascent was made upon their side. Some of them, however, +were by no means well pleased that J.-A. Carrel was so much regarded. They +feared, perhaps, that he would acquire the monopoly of the mountain. Just +a month after Mr. Grove’s ascent, six Valtournanchians set out to see whether +they could not learn the route, and so come in for a share of the good things +which were expected to arrive. They were three Maquignaz’s, Cæsar Carrel +(my old guide), J.-B. Carrel, and a daughter of the last named! They left +Breil at 5 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> on Sept. 12, and at 3 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> arrived at the hut, where they passed +the night. At 7 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> the next day they started again (leaving J.-B. Carrel +behind), and proceeded along the <q>shoulder</q> to the final peak; passed the +cleft which had stopped Bennen, and clambered up the comparatively easy +rocks on the other side until they arrived at the base of the last precipice, +down which we had hurled stones on July 14, 1865. They (young woman +and all) were then about 350 feet from the summit! Then, instead of turning +to the left, as Carrel and Mr. Grove had done, Joseph and J.-Pierre Maquignaz +paid attention to the cliff in front of them, and managed to find a means of +passing up, by clefts, ledges, and gullies, to the summit. This was a shorter +(and it appears to be an easier) route than that taken by Carrel and Grove, and +it has been followed by all those who have since then ascended the mountain +from the side of Breil.<note place="foot">Joseph and J.-Pierre Maquignaz alone ascended; the others had had enough and +returned. It should be observed that ropes had been fixed, by J.-A. Carrel and others, +over <hi rend='italic'>all</hi> the difficult parts of the mountain as high as the shoulder, <hi rend='italic'>before</hi> the advent of +these persons. This explains the facility with which they moved over ground which +had been found very trying in earlier times. The young woman declared that the ascent +(as far as she went) was a trifle, or used words to that effect; if she had tried to get to +the same height before 1862, she would probably have been of a different opinion.</note> Subsequently, a rope was fixed over the most difficult +portions of the final climb. +</p> + +<p> +In the meantime they had not been idle upon the other side. A hut was +constructed upon the eastern face, at a height of 12,526 feet above the sea, +near to the crest of the ridge which descends towards Zermatt (north-east +ridge). This was done at the expense of Monsieur Seiler and of the Swiss +Alpine Club. Mons. Seiler placed the execution of the work under the direction +of the Knubels, of the village of St. Nicholas, in the Zermatt valley; and +Peter Knubel, along with Joseph Marie Lochmatter of the same village, had +the honour of making the second ascent of the mountain upon the northern +side with Mr. Elliott. This took place on July 24-25, 1868. Since then +<pb n='310'/><anchor id='Pg310'/>very numerous ascents have been made both on the Swiss and upon the Italian +side. The list of ascents will, however, show that far more have been made by +the Zermatt or northern route than by the Breil or southern route. +</p><anchor id="fig89"/> +<pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE CHAPEL AT THE SCHWARZSEE.]</p> +</then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus357.jpg" rend="w100"> + <head rend="ill">THE CHAPEL AT THE SCHWARZSEE.</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: The chapel at the Schwarzsee</figDesc></figure></p> +</else></pgIf> +<p> +Mr. Elliott supposed that he avoided the place where the accident occurred, +and that he improved the northern route. This, however, is not the case. +Both he and the others who have succeeded him have followed in all essential +points the route which we took upon July 13-15, 1865, with the exception of +the deviations which I will point out. Upon leaving Zermatt, the traveller +commences by crossing a bridge which is commonly termed the Matterhorn +bridge, and proceeds to the chapel at the Schwarzsee. Thence he mounts the +Hörnli, and follows its ridge along its entire length right up to the foot of the +Matterhorn. There is now a good path along the whole of this ridge, but when +we traversed it for the First Ascent there was not even so much as a faintly +marked track. The first steps which are taken upon the mountain itself follow +the exact line over which I myself led upon the first ascent, and the track +presently passes over the precise spot upon which our tent was placed in 1865. +In 1874, and again in 1876, I saw the initials which I marked on the rock by +the side of our tent. The route now taken passes this rock, and then goes +round the corner of the buttress to which I referred upon <ref target="Pg276">p. 276</ref>. At this point +the route now followed deviates somewhat from the line of our ascent, and goes +more directly up to the part of the north-east ridge upon which the <hi rend='italic'>Cabane</hi> is +placed. We bore more away on to the face of the mountain, and proceeded +<pb n='311'/><anchor id='Pg311'/>more directly towards the summit. At the upper part of the ascent of the +north-east ridge the route now taken is exactly that of the first ascent until +the foot of the final peak is reached; and there, instead of bearing away to the +right, as we did, the tourist now clambers up directly towards the summit by +means of the fixed ropes and chains. The final portion of the ascent, over the +snow at the summit, again follows our route. +</p><anchor id="fig90"/> +<pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: THE SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1874 (NORTHERN END).]</p> +</then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus358.jpg" rend="w80"> + <head rend="ill">THE SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1874 (NORTHERN END).</head> + <figDesc>Illustration: The summit of the Matterhorn in 1874 (Northern end)</figDesc></figure></p> +</else></pgIf> +<p> +So far as the <hi rend='italic'>Cabane</hi> there is now a strongly marked track, almost a path, +<pb n='312'/><anchor id='Pg312'/>over the mountain; and little piles of stones, placed in prominent situations, +point out the way even to the dullest person. What the <hi rend='italic'>Cabane</hi> itself is like +will be seen by reference to the illustration which <ref target="plate13">faces p. 309</ref>. It is placed in +a very insecure position, and will probably one of these days disappear by +disintegration. It is not easy at this part of the mountain to find a good +situation for a hut, though there is plenty of choice both higher up and lower +down. +</p> + +<p> +Amongst the ascents that have been made which are most worthy of note, +that made by Signor Giordano may be mentioned first. This gentleman came +to Breil several times after his famous visit in 1865, with the intention of +making the ascent, but he was always baffled by the weather. In July 1866 +he got as high as the <q>cravate</q> (with J. A. Carrel and other men) and <hi rend='italic'>was +detained there five days and nights, unable to move either up or down</hi>. At last, +upon Sept. 3-5, 1868, he was able to gratify his desires, and accomplished the +feat of ascending the mountain on one side and descending it upon the other. +Signor Giordano is, I believe, the only geologist who has ascended the mountain. +He spent a considerable time in the examination of its structure, and became +benighted on its eastern face in consequence. I am indebted to him for the +valuable note and the accompanying section which follow the Table of Ascents. +Signor Giordano carried a mercurial barometer throughout the entire distance, +and read it frequently. His observations have enabled me to determine with +confidence and accuracy the heights which were attained upon the different +attempts to ascend the mountain, and the various points upon it which have +been so frequently mentioned throughout this volume. +</p> + +<p> +Questions having been frequently put to me respecting the immediate +summit of the Matterhorn, and difficulties having been expressed as to the +recognition of the two views given upon <ref target="fig79">pp. 279</ref> and <ref target="fig80">281</ref>, I made an ascent of +the mountain in 1874 to photograph the summit, in order that I might see what +changes had occurred since our visit of ten years before. The summits of all +high mountains vary from time to time, and I was not surprised to find that +the Matterhorn was no exception to the general rule. It was altogether sharper +and narrower in 1874 than 1865. Instead of being able <q>to run about,</q> every +step had to be painfully cut with the axe; and the immediate summit, instead +of being a blunt and rounded eminence, was a little piled-up cone of snow which +went to a very sharp point. Our photographic operations were conducted with +difficulty, for a furious north wind was blowing which would have whisked away +the camera immediately if it had been set up in the most convenient position for +taking a view; and we were compelled to cut a great gash in the snow and to +work down upon the edge of the cliff overlooking Breil before we could escape +from the gusts which were whirling away the snow in writhing eddies. My +guides J. A. Carrel, Bic, and Lochmatter formed a strong party, and eventually +we gained a position, protected from the wind, whence there was a good view of +the summit; but our ledge was so small that we could not venture to unrope, +and Carrel had to squat down whilst I photographed over his head. The +<ref target="fig90">engraving upon p. 311</ref> has been made from the photograph so taken. It will +interest some of my readers to know that the nearest peak, seen below, is the +summit of the Dent d’Hérens. +</p> + +<pb n='313'/><anchor id='Pg313'/> + +<p> +The light was not favourable for photographing the <hi rend='italic'>Cabane</hi> when we returned +from the summit, and I stopped alone with Carrel in it for a second night in +order to get the morning light on the next day. Whilst quietly reposing inside, +I was startled to hear a rustling and crackling sound, and jumped up, expecting +that the building was about to take itself off to lower quarters; and presently I +perceived that the hut had a tenant to whom I certainly did not expect to be +introduced. A little, plump mouse came creeping out over the floor, being +apparently of opinion that there ought not to be any one there at that time of +day. It wandered about picking up stray fragments of food, occasionally +crunching a bit of egg-shell, totally unaware of my presence, for I made out that +the little animal was both blind and deaf. It would have been easy to capture +it, but I would not do so, and left it there to keep company with other solitary +tourists. +</p> + +<p> +The view from the <hi rend='italic'>Cabane</hi> extends from the Bietschhorn on the north to the +Grand Tournalin in the south; and includes the Mischabel group, the Allalleinhorn +and Alphubel, Mont Rosa, etc. etc. Its situation is not high enough to +overlook those mountains, and so the prospect is very similar to the northern +and eastern half of the view from the Riffel. The uppermost 800 feet of the +Matterhorn can be seen from the hut, but the rest of the part above it is not +visible, being hidden by a small ridge which projects from the face. Whilst +stopping in the <hi rend='italic'>Cabane</hi> we had the insecurity of its position forcibly impressed +upon us by seeing a huge block break away from the rock at its side, and go +crashing down over the very route which is commonly pursued by tourists. +</p> + +<p> +The year 1879 is a memorable one in the history of the Matterhorn, for in it +there occurred two deaths upon the mountain, and two new routes were discovered. +Sufficient information has not come to hand at the time I write upon +what is termed the <q><hi rend='italic'>affaire Brantschen</hi></q> to enable one to form a correct opinion +about that lamentable business, and it is enough to say that upon August 12 a +party started from Breil, composed of Dr. Lüscher, Prof. Schiess, and the guides +J. M. Lochmatter, Jos. Brantschen, and Petryson of Evolena. They gained the +hut on the <q>cravate</q> in due course, and on the following day the party crossed +the mountain to Zermatt, with the exception of Brantschen, who was left behind +in the hut, some say only slightly ill, and others at the point of death. Which +of these was the case is only known by those concerned. They sent back +assistance to their comrade in a somewhat tardy fashion, and when the relief +party gained the hut Brantschen was found dead. +</p> + +<p> +At the time that this was taking place on the southern side of the Matterhorn, +an accident occurred on the north-east face by which a life was lost. +Messrs. A. E. Craven and Dr. Moseley (of Boston), with the guides Peter Rubi +and C. Inabnit, left Zermatt at 10.30 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi> on the night of August 13, and +ascended the mountain by the usual northern route without stopping at the +hut. They reached the summit at 9 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> on the 14th, and had returned to +within a short distance of the hut, when Dr. Moseley (who had found it irksome +to be tied up, and had frequently wished to go unroped) untied himself from the +rest, doing so entirely upon his own responsibility. A few minutes later, and +within quite a short distance of the hut, the party had to cross a projecting +piece of rock. Rubi went over first, and planted his axe in position to give +<pb n='314'/><anchor id='Pg314'/>firm footing to Dr. Moseley, who followed. But, unhappily, he declined assistance; +placed his hand on the rock, and endeavoured to vault over it. In doing so he +slipped, lost hold of his axe, and fell with ever accelerating velocity down almost +the whole of the north-east face. He fell about 2000 feet, and was of course +killed on the spot. His body was recovered three days later, and was interred +in the English burying-ground at Zermatt. +</p> + +<p> +Many persons have talked at different times about the possibility of finding +a way up the Matterhorn from the side of the Z’Mutt glacier; but it was not +until the year 1879 that a way was found. On September 2-3, Mr. A. F. Mummery, +with the guides  ?  and  ?  , succeeded in gaining the summit by first +going up the long buttress of snow which runs out from the mountain to the +Z’Mutt glacier, and then up the rocks above. I have been unable to procure +any details respecting this expedition and my only information about it has +been derived from Mr. Baumann, who followed in Mr. Mummery’s traces three +days later. Mr. Baumann says: <q>We followed the long ice-slope to its extreme +upper end, then the jagged arête above it for a short distance, and then deviated +a little to the right, climbing by a secondary rocky ridge descending towards +the Stockhi until within an hour of the summit, when we struck the main Z’Mutt +arête and so completed the ascent by joining the Breil route.</q> +</p> + +<p> +At the very time that Mr. Mummery was occupied in his expedition, +Mr. W. Penhall, with the guides F. Imseng and L. Sorbriehen, was engaged in +a similar enterprise, and also ascended the Matterhorn from the direction of the +Stockhi. He, however, at the first took a route closer to the Tiefenmatten +glacier, though he at last, like the others, eventually got upon the main Z’Mutt +arête and completed the ascent by following a portion of the Breil route. +</p> + +<p> +Neither Mr. Mummery, nor Messrs. Baumann and Penhall, descended by +the routes which they struck out, and in each case the respective parties +descended by the northern or Zermatt route. It is therefore at present impossible +to determine the relative difficulty of the various routes up the mountain. +Still, I think that the great majority of tourists will, as heretofore, prefer the +ordinary Zermatt route, and that comparatively few will patronize the newly-discovered +ones. +</p> + +<p> +The ascent of the Matterhorn has now taken its place amongst those which +are considered fashionable, and many persons get upon it who ought not to be +upon a mountain at all. Although much has been done on both sides of it +to facilitate the routes, and although they are much easier to traverse than +they were in years gone by, it is still quite possible to get into trouble upon +them, and to come utterly to grief. Considering how large a number of entirely +incompetent persons venture upon the mountain, it is surprising so few meet +with accidents; but if the number of accidents continues to increase at its +present rate it will, ere long, not be easy to find a place of interment in the +English churchyard at Zermatt. +</p> + +</div><div> +<pb n='315'/><anchor id='Pg315'/> +<index index="toc" level1="E. Table of Attempts to Ascend the Matterhorn previous to the First Ascent"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="E. Table of Attempts to Ascend the Matterhorn ..."/> +<head><hi rend='antiqua'>E.</hi> TABLE OF ATTEMPTS MADE TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN PREVIOUS TO THE FIRST ASCENT.</head> + + <pgIf output="txt"><then> +<p rend="white-space: pre"> +No. of Date. Names. Side upon Greatest REMARKS. +Attempt. which Height + the Attempt attained. + was + made, and + Place + arrived at. + + 1 1858-9. J.-Antoine Breil side 12,650 Several attempts + Carrel. “Chimney.†were made before + J.-Jacques this height was + Carrel attained; the men + Victor Carrel. concerned cannot + Gab. Maquignaz. remember how many. + Abbé Gorret. See p. 46. + + 1860. + 2 July Alfred Zermatt 11,500? Without guides. + Parker. side P. 46-7. + Charles East face. + Parker. + Sandbach + Parker. + + 3 August V. Hawkins. Breil side 12,992 Guides—J. J. + J. Tyndall. Hawkins got 13,050? Bennen and + to foot of J.-Jacques + “Great Tower,†Carrel. Pp. 47-9. + Tyndall a few + feet higher. + + 1861. + 4 July Messrs. Zermatt 11,700? No guides. + Parker side P. 49. + East face. + + 5 Aug. 29 J.-Antoine Breil side 13,230 See p. 57. + Carrel. “Crête du + J.-Jacques Coq.†+ Carrel. + + 6 Aug. 29-30 Edward Breil side 12,650 Camped upon the + Whymper “Chimney.†mountain, with + an Oberland + guide. Pp. 51-7. + + 1862. + 7 January T. S. Zermatt 11,000? Winter attempt. + Kennedy side Pp. 58-9. + East face. + + 8 July 7-8 R. J. S. Breil side 12,000 Guides—Johann zum + Macdonald. Arête below Taugwald and + Edward “Chimney.†Johann Kronig. + Whymper. Pp. 64-5. + + 9 July 9-10 R. J. S. Breil side 12,992 Guides—J.-A. + Macdonald. “Great Carrel and + Edward Tower.†Pession. P. 66. + Whymper. + + †July 18-19 ††Breil side 13,400 Alone. Pp. + Somewhat 67-79. + higher than + the lowest part + of the “Cravate.†+ + 10 July 23-24 ††Breil side 13,150 Guides—J.-A. + “Crête du Carrel, Cæsar + Coq.†Carrel, and Luc + Meynet. P. 80. + + 11 July 25-26 ††Breil side 13,460 With Luc Meynet. + Nearly as Pp. 81-2. + high as the + highest part + of the “Cravate.†+ + 12 July 27-28 J. Tyndall Breil side 13,970 Guides—J. J. + “The Bennen and Anton + Shoulder,†Walter; porters— + to foot of J.-Antoine + final peak. Carrel, Cæsar + Carrel, and + another. Pp. + 83-87, 90-92. + + 1863. + 13 Aug. 10-11 Edward Breil side 13,280 Guides—J.-A. + Whymper “Crête du Carrel, Cæsar + Coq.†Carrel, Luc + Meynet, and two + porters. Pp. + 114-123. + + 1865. + 14 June 21. ††South-east 11,200? Guides—Michel + face Croz, Christian + Almer, Franz + Biener; porter—Luc + Meynet. Pp. + 231-235. +</p> + </then><else> +<table rend="latexcolumns:'|p{1cm}|p{0.9cm}|p{1.8cm}|p{1.5cm}|p{1.3cm}|p{2cm}|'; rules:all"> + <row> + <cell rend="cellvalign: top"><hi rend="small">No. of<lb/>Attempt.</hi></cell> + <cell rend="cellvalign: top"><hi rend="small">Date.</hi></cell> + <cell rend="cellvalign: top"><hi rend="small">Names.</hi></cell> + <cell rend="cellvalign: top"><hi rend="small">Side upon which<lb/> + the Attempt was<lb/> + made, and Place<lb/> + arrived at.</hi></cell> + <cell rend="cellvalign: top"><hi rend="small">Greatest<lb/>Height<lb/>attained.</hi></cell> + <cell rend="cellvalign: top"><hi rend='smallcaps; small'>Remarks.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">1</cell> + <cell>1858-9. </cell> + <cell>J.-Antoine Carrel.<lb/> + J.-Jacques Carrel<lb/> + Victor Carrel.<lb/> + Gab. Maquignaz.<lb/> + Abbé Gorret.</cell> + <cell>Breil side<lb/><hi rend="small"><q>Chimney.</q></hi></cell> + <cell>12,650</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Several attempts were made before + this height was attained; the + men concerned cannot remember + how many. See <ref target="Pg046">p. 46</ref>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell></cell> + <cell>1860.</cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">2</cell> + <cell>July</cell> + <cell>Alfred Parker.<lb/> + Charles Parker.<lb/> + Sandbach Parker.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt side<lb/><hi rend="small">East face.</hi></cell> + <cell>11,500?</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Without guides. <ref target="Pg046">P. 46-7</ref>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">3</cell> + <cell>August</cell> + <cell>V. Hawkins.<lb/>J. Tyndall.</cell> + <cell>Breil side<lb/><hi rend="small">Hawkins got to + foot of <q>Great + Tower,</q> Tyndall + a few feet + higher.</hi></cell> + <cell>12,992<lb/>13,050?</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. J. Bennen and + J.-Jacques Carrel. <ref target="Pg047">Pp. <anchor id="corr315"/><corr sic="47-9">47-9.</corr></ref></hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right"></cell> + <cell>1861.</cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">4</cell> + <cell>July</cell> + <cell>Messrs. Parker</cell> + <cell>Zermatt side<lb/><hi rend="small">East face.</hi></cell> + <cell>11,700?</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">No guides. <ref target="Pg049">P. 49</ref>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">5</cell> + <cell>Aug. 29</cell> + <cell>J.-Antoine Carrel.<lb/> + J.-Jacques Carrel.</cell> + <cell>Breil side<lb/><hi rend="small"><q>Crête du Coq.</q></hi></cell> + <cell>13,230</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">See <ref target="Pg057">p. 57</ref>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">6</cell> + <cell>Aug. 29-30</cell> + <cell>Edward Whymper</cell> + <cell>Breil side<lb/><hi rend="small"><q>Chimney.</q></hi></cell> + <cell>12,650</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Camped upon the mountain, with + an Oberland guide. <ref target="Pg051">Pp. 51-7</ref>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right"></cell> + <cell>1862.</cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">7</cell> + <cell>January</cell> + <cell>T. S. Kennedy</cell> + <cell>Zermatt side<lb/><hi rend="small">East face.</hi></cell> + <cell>11,000?</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Winter attempt. <ref target="Pg058">Pp. 58-9</ref>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">8</cell> + <cell>July 7-8</cell> + <cell>R. J. S. Macdonald.<lb/> + Edward Whymper.</cell> + <cell>Breil side<lb/><hi rend="small">Arête below + <q>Chimney.</q></hi></cell> + <cell>12,000</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Johann zum Taugwald + and Johann Kronig. <ref target="Pg064">Pp. 64-5</ref>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">9</cell> + <cell>July 9-10</cell> + <cell>R. J. S. Macdonald.<lb/> +Edward Whymper.</cell> + <cell>Breil side<lb/><hi rend="small"><q>Great Tower.</q></hi></cell> + <cell>12,992</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J.-A. Carrel and Pession. <ref target="Pg066">P. 66</ref>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">â€</cell> + <cell>July 18-19</cell> + <cell>â€Â          â€</cell> + <cell>Breil side<lb/><hi rend="small">Somewhat higher than the lowest part of the <q>Cravate.</q></hi></cell> + <cell>13,400</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Alone. <ref target="Pg067">Pp. 67-79</ref>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">10</cell> + <cell>July 23-24</cell> + <cell>â€Â          â€</cell> + <cell>Breil side<lb/><hi rend="small"><q>Crête du Coq.</q></hi></cell> + <cell>13,150</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J.-A. Carrel, Cæsar Carrel, and Luc Meynet. <ref target="Pg080">P. 80</ref>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">11</cell> + <cell>July 25-26</cell> + <cell>â€Â          â€</cell> + <cell>Breil side<lb/><hi rend="small">Nearly as high as the highest part of the <q>Cravate.</q></hi></cell> + <cell>13,460</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">With Luc Meynet. <ref target="Pg081">Pp. 81-2</ref>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">12</cell> + <cell>July 27-28</cell> + <cell>J. Tyndall</cell> + <cell>Breil side<lb/><hi rend="small"><q>The Shoulder,</q> to foot of final peak.</hi></cell> + <cell>13,970</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. J. Bennen and Anton Walter; porters—J.-Antoine Carrel, + Cæsar Carrel, and another. <ref target="Pg083">Pp. 83-87</ref>, <ref target="Pg090">90-92</ref>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right"></cell> + <cell>1863.</cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">13</cell> + <cell>Aug. 10-11</cell> + <cell>Edward Whymper</cell> + <cell>Breil side<lb/><hi rend="small"><q>Crête du Coq.</q></hi></cell> + <cell>13,280</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J.-A. Carrel, Cæsar Carrel, Luc Meynet, and two porters. + <ref target="Pg114">Pp. 114-123</ref>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right"></cell> + <cell>1865.</cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">14</cell> + <cell>June 21.</cell> + <cell>â€Â          â€</cell> + <cell>South-east face</cell> + <cell>11,200?</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Michel Croz, Christian Almer, Franz Biener; porter—Luc Meynet. + <ref target="Pg231">Pp. 231-235</ref>.</hi></cell> + </row> + </table> + </else></pgIf> + +</div> + <div> +<pb n='316'/><anchor id='Pg316'/> +<index index="toc" level1="F. Ascents of the Matterhorn"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="F. Ascents of the Matterhorn"/> +<head><hi rend='antiqua'>F.</hi> ASCENTS OF THE MATTERHORN.</head> + +<pgIf output="txt"><then> +<p rend="white-space: pre">No. of Date. Names. Route taken. REMARKS. +Ascent + 1865. + 1 July 13-15 Lord Francis Douglas. Zermatt Guides—Michel + D. Hadow. (Or Northern Croz, Peter + Charles Hudson. route.) Taugwalder + Edward Whymper. _père_, Peter + Taugwalder + _fils_. See + pp. 271-290. + + 2 July 16-18 Jean-Antoine Carrel. Breil The first two + J. Baptiste Bich. (Or Southern named only + Amé Gorret. route.) ascended to the + J.-Augustin Meynet. summit. See + pp. 282, 304-6. + + 1867. + 3 Aug. 13-15 F. Craufurd Grove Breil Guides—J. A. + Carrel, Salamon + Meynet, and + J. B. Bich. + + 4 Sept. 12-14 Jos. Maquignaz. Breil An easier route + J.-Pierre Maquignaz. was discovered + Victor Maquignaz. by this party + Cæsar Carrel. than that taken + J.-B. Carrel. upon July 17, + 1865. The first + two named only + ascended to the + summit. See + p. 309. + + 5 Oct. 1-3 W. Leighton Jordan Breil Guides—the + Maquignaz’s just + named, Cæsar + Carrel, and F. + Ansermin. The + Maquignaz’s and + Mr. Jordan alone + reached the + summit. + + 1868. + 6 July 24-25 J. M. Elliott Zermatt Guides—Jos. Marie + Lochmatter and + Peter Knubel. + + 7 July 26-28 J. Tyndall Up Breil Guides—Jos. and + side and Pierre Maquignaz, + down Zermatt and three others. + side. + + 8 Aug. 2-4 O. Hoiler. †? Account given in + F. Thioly. hotel-book at + Breil is not + very clear. + Guides seem to + have been Jos. + and Victor + Maquignaz and + Elie Pession. + + 9 Aug. 3-4 G. E. Foster Zermatt Guides—Hans + Baumann, Peter + Bernett, and + Peter Knubel. + + 10 Aug. 8 Paul Guessfeldt Zermatt Guides—Jos. Marie + Lochmatter, + Nich. Knubel, and + Peter Knubel. + + 11 Sept. 1-2 A. G. Girdlestone. Zermatt Guides—Jos. Marie + F. Craufurd Grove. Lochmatter and + W. E. U. Kelso. the two Knubels. + + 12 Sept. 2-3 G. B. Marke Zermatt Guides—Nich. + Knubel and Pierre + Zurbriggen + (Saas). + + 13 Sept. 3-5 F. Giordano Up Breil Guides—J. A. + side and Carrel and + down Zermatt Jos. Maquignaz. + side. See p. 310. + + 14 Sept. 8-9 Paul Sauzet Breil Guides—J. A. + Carrel and Jos. + Maquignaz. + + 1869. + 15 July 20 James Eccles Breil Guides—J. A. + Carrel, Bich, + and two Payots + (Chamounix). + + 16 Aug. 26-27 R. B. Heathcote Breil Guides—The four + Maquignaz’s (Val + Tournanche). + + 1870. + 17 July 20 (?) ? Zermatt No details have + come to hand. + + 1871. + 18 July 16-17 E. R. Whitwell Zermatt Guides—Ulrich + and Ch. Lauener. + + 19 July 21-22 F. Gardiner. Zermatt Guides—Peter + F. Walker. Perrn, P. Knubel, + Lucy Walker. N. Knubel, + Melchior + Anderegg, and + Heinrich + Anderegg. + + 20 ? — Fowler Zermatt Guides—C. Knubel + and J. M. + Lochmatter. + + 21 Aug. 2-3 W. E. Utterson-Kelso Breil Guides—Victor + and Emmanuel + Maquignaz and + Joseph Gillioz. + + 22 Aug. 7-8 R. S. Lyle Breil Guides—J. J. + Maquignaz and ? + + 23 Aug. 18-19 C. E. Mathews. Breil Guides—J. A. + F. Morshead. Carrel and + Melchior + Anderegg, with + two porters. + + 24 Sept. 4-5 M. C. Brevoort. Zermatt to Breil Guides—Ch. + W. A. B. Coolidge. Almer, Ulr. + Almer, and N. + Knubel. + + 25 Sept. 7-8 R. Fowler Zermatt Guides—J. M. + Lochmatter + and P. Knubel. + + 1872. + 26 July 22-23 F. Gardiner. Zermatt to Breil Guides—J. + T. Middlemore. Maquignaz, + Peter Knubel, + and Johann Jaun. + + 27 July 21 H. Bicknell ? Guides—Not known. + + 28 July 24-25 R. Pendlebury. Zermatt to Breil Guides—Peter + W. M. Pendlebury. Taugwalder + C. Taylor. _fils_, Gabriel + Spechtenhauser, + and F. Imseng. + + 29 July 26 J. Jackson Breil to Zermatt Guides—Jos. + Maquignaz and + Anton Ritz. + + 30 July ? F. A. Wallroth ? Guides—Not known. + + 31 Aug. 29-30 A. Rothschild Zermatt Guides—Franz + Biener and two + Knubels. + + 32 Sept. 1-2 G. A. Passingham Zermatt Guides—F. Imseng + and Franz + Andermatten. + + 33 Sept. 9-10 H. Denning. Zermatt Guides—Melchior + E. Hutchins. Schlapp, Peter + J. Young. Rubi, and two + Knubels. + + 34 Sept. 10-11 L. Saunderson Zermatt Guides—Peter + Bohren and + Peter Knubel. + + 35 Sept. 11-12 E. Millidge Zermatt Guide— — + Pollinger. + + 36 Sept. 11-12 D. J. Abercromby Zermatt Guides—N. Knubel + and P. J. + Knubel. + + 37 Sept. 16-17 C. Bronzet Zermatt Guides—P. Knubel, + F. Truffer, and + J. Truffer. + + 1873. + 38 July 6-7 T. Cox. Zermatt Guides—Peter + J. Gardiner. Knubel and J. M. + Lochmatter. + + 39 July 6-7 C. Théraulaz Zermatt Guides—J. + Gillot and + Ignace Sarbach. + + 40 July 21-22 A. F. Leach Zermatt Guides—P. + Taugwalder + _fils_ and J. + M. Kronig. + + 41 July 21-22 T. A. Bishop Zermatt Guides—P. + Knubel, P. J. + Knubel, and F. + Devouassoud. + + 42 July 23-24 H. Salmond Breil Guides—Not known. + + 43 July 23-24 A. G. Puller. Breil to Zermatt Guides—J. A. + Carrel and Jos. + Maquignaz. + + 44 July 25-26 E. Leatham Zermatt Guides—P. + Knubel and + Joseph Imboden. + + 45 July 25-27 W. W. Simpson Breil to Zermatt Guides—J. A. + Carrel, P. + Maquignaz, and a + Chamounix guide. + + 46 July 29-30 M. Déchy Zermatt Guides—J. A. + Carrel and P. + Taugwalder + _fils_. + + 47 Aug. 3 J. Bischoff. Zermatt Guides— + E. Burckhardt. + + 48 Aug. 6-7 Emile Veyrin Zermatt Guides—P. J. + Knubel; porter, + Joh. Knubel. + + 49 Aug. 9-10 L. Ewbank Zermatt Guides—J. M. and + Alex. Lochmatter. + + 50 Aug. 11 G. E. Hulton. Zermatt Guides—Ch. + F. C. Hulton. Lauener, Johann + Fischer, and + Peter Rubi. + + 51 Aug. 11-12 Marquis Maglioni Zermatt Guides—P. Knubel, + Edouard Capelin; + porter H. Knubel. + + 52 Aug. 14-15 F. Dawkins Zermatt Guides—Franz + Andermatten, A. + Burgener; porter, + Abraham Imseng. + + 53 Aug. 15-16 J. F. Bramston. Zermatt Guides—Melchior + F. Morshead. Anderegg, B. + C. H. Hawkins. Nageli, and J. + M. Lochmatter. + + 54 Aug. 16 H. S. Hoare Zermatt Guides—Johann + von Bergen and + A. Pollinger. + + 55 Aug. 18-22 E. Pigeon. Breil to Zermatt Guides—J. A. + — Pigeon. Carrel, V. + Maquignaz, and J. + Martin. This + party was + confined in the + hut on the + Italian side from + the 18th to the + 21st of August, + by bad weather; + and in descending + upon the Zermatt + side it was + surprised by + night before the + _cabane_ could be + reached, and had + to pass the + night on the open + mountain-side. + + 56 Aug. 22-23 F. P. Barlow Zermatt Guides—Jakob + Anderegg and P. + Taugwalder + _fils_. + + 57 Oct 2-3 W. W. Stuart Breil to Zermatt Guides—Jos. + Maquignaz, F. + Bic, and Jos. + Balmat. + + 1874. + 58 July 14-15 T. G. Bonney Zermatt Guides—J. M. + Lochmatter and + J. Petrus. + + 59 July 17-18 F. Wolf Zermatt Guides—A. + Pollinger and + Jos. Lauber. + + 60 July 18-19 A. Millot and wife Zermatt Guides—Melchior + Anderegg, A. + Maurer, and P. + Taugwalder + _fils_. + + 61 July ? H. Lamb ? Guides—Not known. + + 62 July 19-20 J. Baumann Zermatt Guide-Ulrich + Lauener. + + 63 July 23-24 ? E. Javelle Breil to Zermatt Guides— + + 64 July 27-29 L. K. Rankine Zermatt Guides—A. + Pollinger and + Jos. Längen. + + 65 Aug. 7 J. Birkbeck, Jun. Breil to Breil Guides—J. Petrus + and J. B. Bic. + Mr. Birkbeck and + his guides + started from + Breil, crossed + the mountain to + the northern + side, and + returned to + Breil, in 19 + hours. + + 66 Aug. 7-8 G. F. Cobb. Zermatt Guides—P. + S. Forster. Taugwalder + A. M. Tod. _fils_, Jos. + Taugwalder, and + A. Summermatter. + + 67 Aug. 7-8 M. Bramston Zermatt Guide—B. Nageli. + + 68 Aug. 12 G. Dévin Zermatt Guides—L. + Pollinger and + Henri Séraphin. + + 69 Aug. 19-20 L. N. Walford Zermatt Guides—Alex. + Burgener and B. + Venetz. + + 70 Aug. 20-21 A. D. Puckle Zermatt Guides—J. Petrus + and N. Knubel. + + 71 Aug. 20-21 R. Lindt Zermatt Guides—Ig. + Sarbach and + Peter Sulzer. + + 72 Aug. 20-22 Edward Whymper Zermatt Guides—J. A. + Carrel, J. B. + Bic, and J. M. + Lochmatter. An + ascent made for + the sake of + photography. + Passed two + nights in the + Zermatt + _cabane_. + + 73 Aug. 22-23 W. E. Davidson Zermatt Guides—Laurent + Lanier and Ig. + Sarbach. + + 74 Aug. 23 Prof. G. B—— ? Guides—P. + Prof. K—— Maquignaz, E. + Pession, and + Chas. Gorret. + Account is + illegible. + + 75 Aug. 25 F. W. Headley. Zermatt Guides—A. + E. P. Arnold. Pollinger and + J. J. Truffer. + + 76 Aug. 25 H. J. Smith Zermatt Guides—Alex. + Lochmatter and + Jos. Längen. + + 77 Aug. 25 M. J. Boswell Zermatt Guides—Jos. + Imboden and + Jos. Sarbach. + + 78 Aug. 26 W. J. Lewis Zermatt Guides—Moritz + Julen and Jos. + Taugwalder. + + 79 Aug. 27 W. Stirling Zermatt Guides—Johann + Petrus and + Franz Burgener. + + 80 Aug. 28 J. H. Pratt. Zermatt Guides—J. A. + — Prothero. Carrel and P. + Knubel. Ascent + made in one day. + + 81 Aug. 31 H. N. Malan Zermatt Guides—Jean + Martin and A. + Lochmatter. + + 82 Sept. 1-2 W. A. Lewis Zermatt Guides—J. M. + Lochmatter and + P. Imboden. + + 83 Sept. 2 E. Dent. Zermatt Guide—A. + C. T. Dent. Burgener. + + 84 Sept. 2 J. W. Borel Zermatt Guides—A. + Pollinger and + J. J. Truffer. + + 85 Sept. 3 Ernst Calbenla Zermatt Guides—P. Bohren + and P. Müller. + + 86 Sept. 8 A. H. Simpson. Zermatt Guides—P. Knubel, + M. Cullinan. P. J. Knubel, and + P. Truffer. + + 87 Sept. 8 A. H. Burton Zermatt Guides—P. + Baumann, P. + Taugwalder, and + B. Nageli. + + 88 Sept. 9 E. Pigeon. Zermatt Guides—N. and + — Pigeon. J. Knubel, and + F. Sarbach. + + 89 Sept. 16-17 W. Nägeli Zermatt Guides—J. and + P. Knubel. + + 1875. + 90 May 10 — Corona ? Guides—J. A. + Carrel and J. + J. Maquignaz. + Account is + perfectly + illegible. + + 91 Aug. 2-3 L. Brioschi Zermatt Guides—F. and + A. Imseng and + P. J. + Andermatten. + + 92 Aug. 10 J. W. Hartley Zermatt Guides—P. Rubi + and J. Moser. + + 93 Aug. 10-11 F. T. Wethered Zermatt Guides—Ch. Almer + and A. Pollinger. + + 94 Aug. 11 A. Fairbanks. Zermatt Guide—J. Perrn, + W. Fairbanks. and a porter. + + 95 Aug. 12 D. L. Pickman Zermatt Guides—J. + Taugwalder and + F. Biener. + Ascent made in + one day. + + 96 Aug. 16 D. Merritt Zermatt Guides—No + information. + + 97 Aug. 16 E. Hornby Zermatt Guides—A. and + F. Pollinger. + + 98 Aug. 16 J. J. Morgan. Zermatt Guides—J. + C. L. Morgan. Imboden and J. + Sarbach. + + 99 Aug. 16 A. W. Payne Zermatt Guide—J. + Taugwalder. + + 100 Aug. 17 J. H. Pratt. Breil to Zermatt Guides—J. A. + W. Leaf. Carrel and N. + Knubel. + + 101 Aug. 19-20 F. Tendron. Zermatt Guides—F. and + G. F. Vernon. P. Sarbach and + J. Taugwalder. + + 102 Aug. 23-24 H. R. Whitehouse Zermatt Guides—P. J. + Knubel and P. + T. Truffer. + + 103 Aug. 26-27 F. Morshead. Zermatt Guides—M. + A. O. Prickard. Anderegg, Ch. + H. S. Wilson. Lauener, and J. + Moser. + + 104 Sept. 7 H. G. Gotch Zermatt Guides—Ig. and + Jos. Sarbach. + + 105 Sept. 8 R. King Zermatt Guides—J. A. + Carrel and Jos. + Coulter, and + (porter) A. + Payot. + + 106 Sept. 8 H. Loschge Breil to Zermatt Guides—J. Petrus + and A. Ranier. + + 107 Sept. 9 P. Methuen Zermatt Guides—Johann + Jaun and A. + Maurer. + + 108 Sept. 14 — Butter Zermatt Guides—Jos. + Imboden and J. + Brantschen. + + 109 Sept. 15 W. Kittan Zermatt Guides—J. Petrus + and Franz + Burgener. + + 1876. + 110 July 22-23 A. H. Cawood. Zermatt Without guides, + J. B. Colgrove. and with two + A. Cust. porters. + + 111 July 29 J. Hazel. Zermatt Guides—P. + W. F. Loverell. Maquignaz and + F. Zuber. + + 112 July 30 Eug. Dacqué Zermatt Guides—Borren + (Bohren?) and + Platter (?). + + 113 Aug. 3-4 F. Corbett. Zermatt Guides—F. + M. Courtenay. Burgener, P. + Taugwalder + _fils_, and J. + Taugwalder. + + 114 Aug. 3-4 P. A. Singer. Zermatt Guides—J. + P. A. Singer. Imboden, Jos. + Perrn, P. + Perrn, and F. + Perrn (porter). + + 115 Aug. 6-7 D. E. Cardinal Zermatt Guides—Pierre + Carrel and + Louis Carrel. + + 116 Aug. 7 F. Reiners. Zermatt Guides—P. and + M. Haushofer. J. Knubel. + + 117 Aug. 8-9 H. de Saussure Zermatt Guides—A. + Burgener and J. + Knubel. + + 118 Aug. 8-9 W. Cooke Zermatt Guides—Louis + Carrel and + Pierre Carrel. + + 119 Aug. 8-9 J. J. Bischoff Zermatt Guides—J. Petrus, + P. T. Truffer, + and another. + + 120 Aug. 9 Joseph Seiler Zermatt Guides— — + Lauber and ? An + one day ascent. + + 121 Aug. 9-10 W. J. Whelpdale. Zermatt Guides—J. M. + C. Weightmann. Lochmatter, A. + Ritz, and Jos. + Brantschen as + porter. + + 122 Aug. 10 P. Watson Zermatt Guides—Alex. + Burgener and B. + Venetz. + + 123 Aug. 12 S. Waller. Zermatt Guides—J. M. + G. Fitzgerald. Lochmatter and + J. Lauber. + + 124 Aug. 12 H. Meyer. Zermatt Guides—Jos. + C. Estertag. Brantschen, P. + J. Knubel, and + Jos. Taugwalder. + + 125 Aug. 12 J. Jackson. Zermatt Guides—Christian + T. H. Kitson. and Ulrich + Almer. Ascent + in one day. + + 126 Aug. 12 Jos. Nantermod Zermatt Guides—A. + Pollinger and B. + Andenmatten. + + 127 Aug. 14 C. E. Mathews. Zermatt Guides—M. + F. Morshead. Anderegg and ? + Ascent made in + one day. + + 128 (?) — Dent. Zermatt Guide—Alex. + Burgener. + + 129 Aug. 28-29 G. W. Prothero. Zermatt to Breil Guide—J. A. + Carrel. + + 1877. + 130 Aug. 4 O. Boenaud. Zermatt Guides—No + G. Mermod. information. + L. Mermod. + + 131 Aug. 13-14 Q. Sella. Zermatt to Breil Guides—J. A. + L. Biraghi. Carrel, — Imseng, + J. B. Carrel, + Louis Carrel, + Jos. and + Vict. Maquignaz, + etc. etc. + + 132 Aug. 19 W. H. Grenfell. Breil Guides— — Imseng + J. H. A. Peebles. and ? + + 133 Aug. 20 W. Penhall Zermatt Guides—Jos. + Imboden and P. + Taugwalder + _fils_. + + 134 Aug. 24-25 G. Fitzgerald Zermatt Guides—J. M. + Lochmatter and + Joseph Lauber. + + 135 Aug. 29 J. A. Cooper Zermatt Guides—Alex and + Alois Burgener. + + 136 Aug. 30 J. D. Griffiths Zermatt Guides—Basile + Andenmatten and ? + + 137 Aug. 30 J. F. Yearsley Zermatt Guides—F. + Burgener, P. + Andenmatten, and + (porter) — + Blumenthal. + + 138 Aug. 30-31 J. C. Leman Zermatt Guides— — + Pollinger and ? + + 139 Aug. 30-31 T. de Cambray Digny Zermatt to Breil Guides—J. A. + Carrel and Henri + Séraphin. + + 140 Sept. 4 J. Freitschke Zermatt Guide—Basile + Andenmatten. + + 141 Sept. 4-5 H. Loschge Zermatt to Breil Guides—Alex. + Burgener and a + Tyrol guide. + + 142 Sept. 6-7 J. Nérot Breil to Zermatt Guides—J. A. + Carrel, a + Chamounix guide, + and a porter. + + 1878. + 143 ? T. Jose Zermatt Guides—J. M. + Lochmatter, P. + Knubel, and + Pierre Truffer. + + 144 Sept. 7 Carl Hecke Zermatt Guide—Basile + Andenmatten. + + 145 Sept. 9 Jules Seiler Zermatt Guides—P. Knubel + and Basile + Andenmatten. + + 146 Sept. 21 Dr. Minnigerode Zermatt Guides—J. M. + Lochmatter and + J. Taugwalder. + + 147 Sept. 11-12 C. J. Thompson Zermatt Guides—J. A. + Carrel and — + Imseng. + + 1879. + 148 Aug. 12-13 Dr. Lüscher. Up Breil side Guides—J. M. + Prof. Schiess. and down Zermatt Lochmatter, Jos. + side. Brantschen, and + Petryson + (Evolena). + Brantschen was + left behind in + the hut on the + “_cravate_,†and + died there. + + 149 Aug. 13 W. W. R. Powell Zermatt Guides—Peter + Taugwalder + _fils_ and A. + Imseng. + + 150 Aug. 13-14 C. E. Freeman Breil to Zermatt Guides—J. A. + Carrel + and—Sopersac + (Saas). + + 151 Aug. 13-14 A. E. Craven. Zermatt Guides—P. Rubi + W. O. Moseley. and C. Inabnit. + Dr. Moseley lost + his life in + descending the + mountain. See + Appendix *D*. + + 152 Aug. 28-29 C. E. B. Watson Zermatt to Breil Guides—P. + Anderegg and A. + Imboden. + + 153 Aug. G. H. Savage Zermatt Guides—Jos. + 30-Sept. 1 Imboden and + Franz + Andermatten. Dr. + Savage slept on + the Hörnli Aug. + 30; began the + ascent by + moonlight at a + little before 2 + A.M. on Sept. 1, + reached the + summit at 6.30 + A.M., and + returned to + Zermatt by 12.30 + P.M. + + 154 Sept. 2-3 A. F. Mummery Z’Mutt side Mr. Mummery was + the first to + ascend the + Matterhorn from + the side of the + Z’Mutt Glacier. + No details have + been received. + + 155 Sept. 2-3 W. Penhall Z’Mutt side Guides—Ferdinand + Imseng and Louis + Sorbrichen. Mr. + Penhall also + made his ascent + upon the Z’Mutt + side, but took a + route more to + the south than + that followed by + Mr. Mummery. + + 156 Sept. 4-5 B. Wainewright Zermatt to Breil Guides—Jos. + Imboden and + Peter Sarbach. + + 157 Sept. 4-5 H. Hoare Zermatt Guide—J. + Anderegg and + (porter) Jos. + Chanton. + + 158 Sept. 5-6 J. Baumann Z’Mutt side Guides—Petrus + (Stalden) and + Emile Rey. Mr. + Mummery’s route + was followed. + + 159 ? J. Maurer Breil to Zermatt Guides—? No + information.</p> +</then><else> +<table rend="latexcolumns:'|p{0.8cm}|p{1cm}|p{2.3cm}|p{1.2cm}|p{3cm}|'; rules:all"> + <row> + <cell><hi rend="small">No. of<lb/>Ascent</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Date.</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Names.</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Route taken.</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small"><hi rend='smallcaps'>Remarks.</hi></hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right"></cell> + <cell>1865.</cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">1</cell> + <cell>July 13-15</cell> + <cell>Lord Francis Douglas.<lb/>D. Hadow.<lb/>Charles Hudson.<lb/>Edward Whymper.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt<lb/><hi rend="small">(Or Northern route.)</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Michel Croz, Peter Taugwalder + <hi rend='italic'>père</hi>, Peter Taugwalder <hi rend='italic'>fils</hi>. + See <ref target="Pg271">pp. 271-290</ref>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">2</cell> + <cell>July 16-18</cell> + <cell>Jean-Antoine Carrel.<lb/>J. Baptiste Bich.<lb/>Amé Gorret.<lb/>J.-Augustin Meynet.</cell> + <cell>Breil<lb/><hi rend="small">(Or Southern route.)</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">The first two named only ascended to the summit. + See <ref target="Pg282">pp. 282</ref>, <ref target="Pg304">304-6</ref>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right"></cell> + <cell>1867.</cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">3</cell> + <cell>Aug. 13-15</cell> + <cell>F. Craufurd Grove</cell> + <cell>Breil</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. A. Carrel, Salamon Meynet, and J. B. Bich.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">4</cell> + <cell>Sept. 12-14</cell> + <cell>Jos. Maquignaz.<lb/>J.-Pierre Maquignaz.<lb/>Victor Maquignaz.<lb/>Cæsar Carrel.<lb/>J.-B. Carrel.</cell> + <cell>Breil</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">An easier route was discovered by this party than that taken upon July 17, 1865. + The first two named only ascended to the summit. See <ref target="Pg309">p. 309</ref>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">5</cell> + <cell>Oct. 1-3</cell> + <cell>W. Leighton Jordan</cell> + <cell>Breil</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—the Maquignaz’s just named, Cæsar Carrel, and F. Ansermin. The Maquignaz’s + and Mr. Jordan alone reached the summit.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right"></cell> + <cell>1868.</cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">6</cell> + <cell>July 24-25</cell> + <cell>J. M. Elliott</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Jos. Marie Lochmatter and Peter Knubel.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">7</cell> + <cell>July 26-28</cell> + <cell>J. Tyndall</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Up Breil side and down Zermatt side.</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Jos. and Pierre Maquignaz, and three others.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">8</cell> + <cell>Aug. 2-4 </cell> + <cell>O. Hoiler.<lb/>F. Thioly.</cell> + <cell>â€Â ?</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Account given in hotel-book at Breil is not very clear. Guides seem to have been Jos. + and Victor Maquignaz and Elie Pession.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">9</cell> + <cell>Aug. 3-4</cell> + <cell>G. E. Foster</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Hans Baumann, Peter Bernett, and Peter Knubel.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">10</cell> + <cell>Aug. 8 </cell> + <cell>Paul Guessfeldt</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Jos. Marie Lochmatter, Nich. Knubel, and Peter Knubel.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">11</cell> + <cell>Sept. 1-2 </cell> + <cell>A. G. Girdlestone.<lb/>F. Craufurd Grove.<lb/>W. E. U. Kelso.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Jos. Marie Lochmatter and the two Knubels.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">12</cell> + <cell>Sept. 2-3</cell> + <cell>G. B. Marke</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Nich. Knubel and Pierre Zurbriggen (Saas).</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">13</cell> + <cell>Sept. 3-5</cell> + <cell>F. Giordano</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Up Breil side and down Zermatt side.</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. A. Carrel and Jos. Maquignaz. See <ref target="Pg310">p. 310</ref>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">14</cell> + <cell>Sept. 8-9</cell> + <cell>Paul Sauzet</cell> + <cell>Breil</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. A. Carrel and Jos. Maquignaz.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right"></cell> + <cell>1869.</cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">15</cell> + <cell>July 20</cell> + <cell>James Eccles</cell> + <cell>Breil</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. A. Carrel, Bich, and two Payots (Chamounix).</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">16</cell> + <cell>Aug. 26-27</cell> + <cell>R. B. Heathcote</cell> + <cell>Breil</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—The four Maquignaz’s (Val Tournanche).</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right"></cell> + <cell>1870.</cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">17</cell> + <cell>July 20 (?)</cell> + <cell>?</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">No details have come to hand.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right"></cell> + <cell>1871.</cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">18</cell> + <cell>July 16-17</cell> + <cell>E. R. Whitwell</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Ulrich and Ch. Lauener.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">19</cell> + <cell>July 21-22</cell> + <cell>F. Gardiner.<lb/>F. Walker.<lb/>Lucy Walker.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Peter Perrn, P. Knubel, N. Knubel, + Melchior Anderegg, and Heinrich Anderegg.</hi></cell> + </row> + <pb n='317'/><anchor id='Pg317'/><row> + <cell rend="right">20</cell> + <cell>?</cell> + <cell>— Fowler</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—C. Knubel and J. M. Lochmatter.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">21</cell> + <cell>Aug. 2-3</cell> + <cell>W. E. Utterson-Kelso</cell> + <cell>Breil </cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Victor and Emmanuel Maquignaz and Joseph Gillioz.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">22</cell> + <cell>Aug. 7-8</cell> + <cell>R. S. Lyle</cell> + <cell>Breil</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. J. Maquignaz and ?</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">23</cell> + <cell>Aug. 18-19</cell> + <cell>C. E. Mathews.<lb/>F. Morshead.</cell> + <cell>Breil</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. A. Carrel and Melchior Anderegg, with two porters.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">24</cell> + <cell>Sept. 4-5</cell> + <cell>M. C. Brevoort.<lb/>W. A. B. Coolidge.</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Zermatt to Breil</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Ch. Almer, Ulr. Almer, and N. Knubel.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">25</cell> + <cell>Sept. 7-8</cell> + <cell>R. Fowler</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. M. Lochmatter and P. Knubel.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right"></cell> + <cell>1872.</cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">26</cell> + <cell>July 22-23</cell> + <cell>F. Gardiner.<lb/>T. Middlemore.</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Zermatt to Breil </hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. Maquignaz, Peter Knubel, and Johann Jaun.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">27</cell> + <cell>July 21</cell> + <cell>H. Bicknell</cell> + <cell>?</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Not known.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">28</cell> + <cell>July 24-25</cell> + <cell>R. Pendlebury.<lb/>W. M. Pendlebury.<lb/>C. Taylor.</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Zermatt to Breil</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Peter Taugwalder <hi rend='italic'>fils</hi>, Gabriel + Spechtenhauser, and F. Imseng.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">29</cell> + <cell>July 26</cell> + <cell>J. Jackson</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Breil to Zermatt</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Jos. Maquignaz and Anton Ritz.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">30</cell> + <cell>July ?</cell> + <cell>F. A. Wallroth</cell> + <cell>?</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Not known.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">31</cell> + <cell>Aug. 29-30</cell> + <cell>A. Rothschild</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Franz Biener and two Knubels.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">32</cell> + <cell>Sept. 1-2</cell> + <cell>G. A. Passingham</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—F. Imseng and Franz Andermatten.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">33</cell> + <cell>Sept. 9-10</cell> + <cell>H. Denning.<lb/>E. Hutchins.<lb/>J. Young.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Melchior Schlapp, Peter Rubi, and two Knubels.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">34</cell> + <cell>Sept. 10-11</cell> + <cell>L. Saunderson</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Peter Bohren and Peter Knubel.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">35</cell> + <cell>Sept. 11-12</cell> + <cell>E. Millidge</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guide— — Pollinger.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">36</cell> + <cell>Sept. 11-12</cell> + <cell>D. J. Abercromby</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—N. Knubel and P. J. Knubel.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">37</cell> + <cell>Sept. 16-17 </cell> + <cell>C. Bronzet</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—P. Knubel, F. Truffer, and J. Truffer.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right"></cell> + <cell>1873.</cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">38</cell> + <cell>July 6-7 </cell> + <cell>T. Cox.<lb/>J. Gardiner.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Peter Knubel and J. M. Lochmatter.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">39</cell> + <cell>July 6-7</cell> + <cell>C. Théraulaz</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. Gillot and Ignace Sarbach.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">40</cell> + <cell>July 21-22</cell> + <cell>A. F. Leach</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—P. Taugwalder <hi rend='italic'>fils</hi> and J. M. Kronig.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">41</cell> + <cell>July 21-22</cell> + <cell>T. A. Bishop</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—P. Knubel, P. J. Knubel, and F. Devouassoud.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">42</cell> + <cell>July 23-24</cell> + <cell>H. Salmond</cell> + <cell>Breil</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Not known.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">43</cell> + <cell>July 23-24</cell> + <cell>A. G. Puller.</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Breil to Zermatt</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. A. Carrel and Jos. Maquignaz.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">44</cell> + <cell>July 25-26</cell> + <cell>E. Leatham</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—P. Knubel and Joseph Imboden.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">45</cell> + <cell>July 25-27</cell> + <cell>W. W. Simpson</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Breil to Zermatt</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. A. Carrel, P. Maquignaz, and a Chamounix guide.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">46</cell> + <cell>July 29-30</cell> + <cell>M. Déchy</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell>G<hi rend="small">uides—J. A. Carrel and P. Taugwalder <hi rend='italic'>fils</hi>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <pb n='318'/><anchor id='Pg318'/><row> + <cell rend="right">47</cell> + <cell>Aug. 3</cell> + <cell>J. Bischoff.<lb/>E. Burckhardt.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">48</cell> + <cell>Aug. 6-7 </cell> + <cell>Emile Veyrin</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—P. J. Knubel; porter, Joh. Knubel.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">49</cell> + <cell>Aug. 9-10</cell> + <cell>L. Ewbank</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. M. and Alex. Lochmatter.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">50</cell> + <cell>Aug. 11</cell> + <cell>G. E. Hulton.<lb/>F. C. Hulton.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Ch. Lauener, Johann Fischer, and Peter Rubi.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">51</cell> + <cell>Aug. 11-12</cell> + <cell>Marquis Maglioni</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—P. Knubel, Edouard Capelin; porter H. Knubel.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">52</cell> + <cell>Aug. 14-15</cell> + <cell>F. Dawkins</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Franz Andermatten, A. Burgener; porter, Abraham Imseng.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">53</cell> + <cell>Aug. 15-16</cell> + <cell>J. F. Bramston.<lb/>F. Morshead.<lb/>C. H. Hawkins.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Melchior Anderegg, B. Nageli, and J. M. Lochmatter.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">54</cell> + <cell>Aug. 16</cell> + <cell>H. S. Hoare</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Johann von Bergen and A. Pollinger.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">55</cell> + <cell>Aug. 18-22</cell> + <cell>E. Pigeon.<lb/>— Pigeon.</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Breil to Zermatt</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. A. Carrel, V. Maquignaz, and J. Martin. This party was confined in the + hut on the Italian side from the 18th to the 21st of August, by bad weather; and in + descending upon the Zermatt side it was surprised by night before the <hi rend='italic'>cabane</hi> + could be reached, and had to pass the night on the open mountain-side.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">56</cell> + <cell>Aug. 22-23</cell> + <cell>F. P. Barlow</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Jakob Anderegg and P. Taugwalder <hi rend='italic'>fils</hi>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">57</cell> + <cell>Oct 2-3</cell> + <cell>W. W. Stuart</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Breil to Zermatt</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Jos. Maquignaz, F. Bic, and Jos. Balmat.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right"></cell> + <cell>1874.</cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">58</cell> + <cell>July 14-15</cell> + <cell>T. G. Bonney</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. M. Lochmatter and J. Petrus.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">59</cell> + <cell>July 17-18</cell> + <cell>F. Wolf</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—A. Pollinger and Jos. Lauber.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">60</cell> + <cell>July 18-19</cell> + <cell>A. Millot and wife</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Melchior Anderegg, A. Maurer, and P. Taugwalder <hi rend='italic'>fils</hi>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">61</cell> + <cell>July ?</cell> + <cell>H. Lamb </cell> + <cell>?</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Not known.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">62</cell> + <cell>July 19-20</cell> + <cell>J. Baumann</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guide-Ulrich Lauener.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">63</cell> + <cell>July 23-24</cell> + <cell>? E. Javelle</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Breil to Zermatt</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">64</cell> + <cell>July 27-29</cell> + <cell>L. K. Rankine</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—A. Pollinger and Jos. Längen.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">65</cell> + <cell>Aug. 7</cell> + <cell>J. Birkbeck, Jun.</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Breil to Breil</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. Petrus and J. B. Bic. Mr. Birkbeck and his guides started from Breil, + crossed the mountain to the northern side, and returned to Breil, in 19 hours.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">66</cell> + <cell>Aug. 7-8</cell> + <cell>G. F. Cobb.<lb/>S. Forster.<lb/>A. M. Tod.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—P. Taugwalder <hi rend='italic'>fils</hi>, Jos. Taugwalder, + and A. Summermatter.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">67</cell> + <cell>Aug. 7-8</cell> + <cell>M. Bramston</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guide—B. Nageli.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">68</cell> + <cell>Aug. 12</cell> + <cell>G. Dévin</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—L. Pollinger and Henri Séraphin.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">69</cell> + <cell>Aug. 19-20 </cell> + <cell>L. N. Walford</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Alex. Burgener and B. Venetz.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">70</cell> + <cell>Aug. 20-21</cell> + <cell>A. D. Puckle</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. Petrus and N. Knubel.</hi></cell> + </row> + <pb n='319'/><anchor id='Pg319'/><row> + <cell rend="right">71</cell> + <cell>Aug. 20-21</cell> + <cell>R. Lindt</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Ig. Sarbach and Peter Sulzer.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">72</cell> + <cell>Aug. 20-22</cell> + <cell>Edward Whymper</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. A. Carrel, J. B. Bic, and J. M. Lochmatter. An ascent made for the + sake of photography. Passed two nights in the Zermatt <hi rend='italic'>cabane</hi>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">73</cell> + <cell>Aug. 22-23</cell> + <cell>W. E. Davidson</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Laurent Lanier and Ig. Sarbach.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">74</cell> + <cell>Aug. 23</cell> + <cell>Prof. G. B——<lb/>Prof. K——</cell> + <cell>?</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—P. Maquignaz, E. Pession, and Chas. Gorret. Account is illegible.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">75</cell> + <cell>Aug. 25</cell> + <cell>F. W. Headley.<lb/>E. P. Arnold.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—A. Pollinger and J. J. Truffer.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">76</cell> + <cell>Aug. 25</cell> + <cell>H. J. Smith</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Alex. Lochmatter and Jos. Längen.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">77</cell> + <cell>Aug. 25</cell> + <cell>M. J. Boswell</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Jos. Imboden and Jos. Sarbach.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">78</cell> + <cell>Aug. 26</cell> + <cell>W. J. Lewis</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Moritz Julen and Jos. Taugwalder.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">79</cell> + <cell>Aug. 27</cell> + <cell>W. Stirling</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Johann Petrus and Franz Burgener.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">80</cell> + <cell>Aug. 28</cell> + <cell>J. H. Pratt.<lb/>— Prothero.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. A. Carrel and P. Knubel. Ascent made in one day.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">81</cell> + <cell>Aug. 31</cell> + <cell>H. N. Malan</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Jean Martin and A. Lochmatter.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">82</cell> + <cell>Sept. 1-2</cell> + <cell>W. A. Lewis</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. M. Lochmatter and P. Imboden.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">83</cell> + <cell>Sept. 2</cell> + <cell>E. Dent.<lb/>C. T. Dent.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guide—A. Burgener.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">84</cell> + <cell>Sept. 2</cell> + <cell>J. W. Borel</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—A. Pollinger and J. J. Truffer.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">85</cell> + <cell>Sept. 3</cell> + <cell>Ernst Calbenla</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—P. Bohren and P. Müller.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">86</cell> + <cell>Sept. 8</cell> + <cell>A. H. Simpson.<lb/>M. Cullinan.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—P. Knubel, P. J. Knubel, and P. Truffer.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">87</cell> + <cell>Sept. 8</cell> + <cell>A. H. Burton</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—P. Baumann, P. Taugwalder, and B. Nageli.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">88</cell> + <cell>Sept. 9</cell> + <cell>E. Pigeon.<lb/>— Pigeon.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—N. and J. Knubel, and F. Sarbach.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">89</cell> + <cell>Sept. 16-17</cell> + <cell>W. Nägeli</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. and P. Knubel.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right"></cell> + <cell>1875.</cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">90</cell> + <cell>May 10</cell> + <cell>— Corona</cell> + <cell>?</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. A. Carrel and J. J. Maquignaz. Account is perfectly illegible.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">91</cell> + <cell>Aug. 2-3</cell> + <cell>L. Brioschi</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—F. and A. Imseng and P. J. <anchor id="corr319"/><corr sic="Andermatten">Andermatten.</corr></hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">92</cell> + <cell>Aug. 10</cell> + <cell>J. W. Hartley</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—P. Rubi and J. Moser.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">93</cell> + <cell>Aug. 10-11</cell> + <cell>F. T. Wethered</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Ch. Almer and A. Pollinger.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">94</cell> + <cell>Aug. 11</cell> + <cell>A. Fairbanks.<lb/>W. Fairbanks.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guide—J. Perrn, and a porter.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">95</cell> + <cell>Aug. 12</cell> + <cell>D. L. Pickman</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. Taugwalder and F. Biener. + Ascent made in one day.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">96</cell> + <cell>Aug. 16</cell> + <cell>D. Merritt</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—No information.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">97</cell> + <cell>Aug. 16</cell> + <cell>E. Hornby</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—A. and F. Pollinger.</hi></cell> + </row> + <pb n='320'/><anchor id='Pg320'/><row> + <cell rend="right">98</cell> + <cell>Aug. 16 </cell> + <cell>J. J. Morgan.<lb/>C. L. Morgan.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. Imboden and J. Sarbach.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">99</cell> + <cell>Aug. 16</cell> + <cell>A. W. Payne</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guide—J. Taugwalder.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">100</cell> + <cell>Aug. 17</cell> + <cell>J. H. Pratt.<lb/>W. Leaf.</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Breil to Zermatt</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. A. Carrel and N. Knubel.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">101</cell> + <cell>Aug. 19-20</cell> + <cell>F. Tendron.<lb/>G. F. Vernon.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—F. and P. Sarbach and J. Taugwalder.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">102</cell> + <cell>Aug. 23-24</cell> + <cell>H. R. Whitehouse</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—P. J. Knubel and P. T. Truffer.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">103</cell> + <cell>Aug. 26-27</cell> + <cell>F. Morshead.<lb/>A. O. Prickard.<lb/>H. S. Wilson.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—M. Anderegg, Ch. Lauener, and J. Moser.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">104</cell> + <cell>Sept. 7</cell> + <cell>H. G. Gotch</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Ig. and Jos. Sarbach.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">105</cell> + <cell>Sept. 8</cell> + <cell>R. King</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. A. Carrel and Jos. Coulter, and (porter) A. Payot.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">106</cell> + <cell>Sept. 8 </cell> + <cell>H. Loschge</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Breil to Zermatt</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. Petrus and A. Ranier.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">107</cell> + <cell>Sept. 9</cell> + <cell>P. Methuen</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Johann Jaun and A. Maurer.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">108</cell> + <cell>Sept. 14</cell> + <cell>— Butter</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Jos. Imboden and J. Brantschen.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">109</cell> + <cell>Sept. 15</cell> + <cell>W. Kittan</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. Petrus and Franz Burgener.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right"></cell> + <cell>1876.</cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">110</cell> + <cell>July 22-23</cell> + <cell>A. H. Cawood.<lb/>J. B. Colgrove.<lb/>A. Cust.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Without guides, and with two porters.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">111</cell> + <cell>July 29 </cell> + <cell>J. Hazel.<lb/>W. F. Loverell.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—P. Maquignaz and F. Zuber.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">112</cell> + <cell>July 30</cell> + <cell>Eug. Dacqué</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Borren (Bohren?) and Platter (?).</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">113</cell> + <cell>Aug. 3-4</cell> + <cell>F. Corbett.<lb/>M. Courtenay.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—F. Burgener, P. Taugwalder <hi rend='italic'>fils</hi>, + and J. Taugwalder.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">114</cell> + <cell>Aug. 3-4</cell> + <cell>P. A. Singer.<lb/>P. A. Singer.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. Imboden, Jos. Perrn, P. Perrn, and F. Perrn (porter).</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">115</cell> + <cell>Aug. 6-7</cell> + <cell>D. E. Cardinal</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Pierre Carrel and Louis Carrel.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">116</cell> + <cell>Aug. 7</cell> + <cell>F. Reiners.<lb/>M. Haushofer.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—P. and J. Knubel.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">117</cell> + <cell>Aug. 8-9</cell> + <cell>H. de Saussure</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—A. Burgener and J. Knubel.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">118</cell> + <cell>Aug. 8-9</cell> + <cell>W. Cooke</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Louis Carrel and Pierre Carrel.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">119</cell> + <cell>Aug. 8-9</cell> + <cell>J. J. Bischoff</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. Petrus, P. T. Truffer, and another.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">120</cell> + <cell>Aug. 9</cell> + <cell>Joseph Seiler</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides— — Lauber and ? An one day ascent.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">121</cell> + <cell>Aug. 9-10</cell> + <cell>W. J. Whelpdale.<lb/>C. Weightmann.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. M. Lochmatter, A. Ritz, and Jos. Brantschen as porter.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">122</cell> + <cell>Aug. 10</cell> + <cell>P. Watson</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Alex. Burgener and B. Venetz.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">123</cell> + <cell>Aug. 12</cell> + <cell>S. Waller.<lb/>G. Fitzgerald.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. M. Lochmatter and J. Lauber.</hi></cell> + </row> + <pb n='321'/><anchor id='Pg321'/><row> + <cell rend="right">124</cell> + <cell>Aug. 12</cell> + <cell>H. Meyer.<lb/>C. Estertag.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Jos. Brantschen, P. J. Knubel, and Jos. Taugwalder.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">125</cell> + <cell>Aug. 12 </cell> + <cell>J. Jackson.<lb/>T. H. Kitson.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Christian and Ulrich Almer. Ascent in one day.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">126</cell> + <cell>Aug. 12</cell> + <cell>Jos. Nantermod</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—A. Pollinger and B. Andenmatten.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">127</cell> + <cell>Aug. 14</cell> + <cell>C. E. Mathews.<lb/>F. Morshead.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—M. Anderegg and ? Ascent made in one day.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">128</cell> + <cell>(?)</cell> + <cell>— Dent.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guide—Alex. Burgener.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">129</cell> + <cell>Aug. 28-29</cell> + <cell>G. W. Prothero.</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Zermatt to Breil</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guide—J. A. Carrel.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right"></cell> + <cell>1877.</cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">130</cell> + <cell>Aug. 4</cell> + <cell>O. Boenaud.<lb/>G. Mermod.<lb/>L. Mermod.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—No information.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">131</cell> + <cell>Aug. 13-14</cell> + <cell>Q. Sella.<lb/>L. Biraghi.</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Zermatt to Breil</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. A. Carrel, — Imseng, J. B. Carrel, + Louis Carrel, Jos. and Vict. Maquignaz, etc. etc.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">132</cell> + <cell>Aug. 19</cell> + <cell>W. H. Grenfell.<lb/>J. H. A. Peebles.</cell> + <cell>Breil</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides— — Imseng and ?</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">133</cell> + <cell>Aug. 20</cell> + <cell>W. Penhall</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Jos. Imboden and P. Taugwalder <hi rend='italic'>fils</hi>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">134</cell> + <cell>Aug. 24-25</cell> + <cell>G. Fitzgerald</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. M. Lochmatter and Joseph Lauber.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">135</cell> + <cell>Aug. 29</cell> + <cell>J. A. Cooper</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Alex and Alois Burgener.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">136</cell> + <cell>Aug. 30</cell> + <cell>J. D. Griffiths</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Basile Andenmatten and ?</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">137</cell> + <cell>Aug. 30</cell> + <cell>J. F. Yearsley</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—F. Burgener, P. Andenmatten, and (porter) — Blumenthal.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">138</cell> + <cell>Aug. 30-31</cell> + <cell>J. C. Leman</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides— — Pollinger and ?</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">139</cell> + <cell>Aug. 30-31</cell> + <cell>T. de Cambray Digny</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Zermatt to Breil</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. A. Carrel and Henri Séraphin.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">140</cell> + <cell>Sept. 4</cell> + <cell>J. Freitschke</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guide—Basile Andenmatten.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">141</cell> + <cell>Sept. 4-5</cell> + <cell>H. Loschge</cell> + <cell>Zermatt to Breil</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Alex. Burgener and a Tyrol guide.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">142</cell> + <cell>Sept. 6-7</cell> + <cell>J. Nérot</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Breil to Zermatt</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. A. Carrel, a Chamounix guide, and a porter.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right"></cell> + <cell>1878.</cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">143</cell> + <cell>?</cell> + <cell>T. Jose</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. M. Lochmatter, P. Knubel, and Pierre Truffer.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">144</cell> + <cell>Sept. 7</cell> + <cell>Carl Hecke</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guide—Basile Andenmatten.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">145</cell> + <cell>Sept. 9</cell> + <cell>Jules Seiler</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—P. Knubel and Basile Andenmatten.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">146</cell> + <cell>Sept. 21</cell> + <cell>Dr. Minnigerode</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. M. Lochmatter and J. <anchor id="corr321"/><corr sic="Taugwalder">Taugwalder.</corr></hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">147</cell> + <cell>Sept. 11-12</cell> + <cell>C. J. Thompson</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. A. Carrel and — Imseng.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right"></cell> + <cell>1879.</cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + <cell></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">148</cell> + <cell>Aug. 12-13</cell> + <cell>Dr. Lüscher.<lb/>Prof. Schiess.</cell> + <cell>Up Breil side <hi rend="small">and down Zermatt side.</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. M. Lochmatter, Jos. Brantschen, and Petryson (Evolena). Brantschen was + left behind in the hut on the <q><hi rend='italic'>cravate</hi>,</q> and died there.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">149</cell> + <cell>Aug. 13</cell> + <cell>W. W. R. Powell</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Peter Taugwalder <hi rend='italic'>fils</hi> and A. Imseng.</hi></cell> + </row> + <pb n='322'/><anchor id='Pg322'/><row> + <cell rend="right">150</cell> + <cell>Aug. 13-14</cell> + <cell>C. E. Freeman</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Breil to Zermatt</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—J. A. Carrel and—Sopersac (Saas).</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">151</cell> + <cell>Aug. 13-14</cell> + <cell>A. E. Craven.<lb/>W. O. Moseley.</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—P. Rubi and C. Inabnit. Dr. Moseley lost his life in descending the mountain. + See <ref target="Pg313">Appendix <hi rend='antiqua'>D</hi></ref>.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">152</cell> + <cell>Aug. 28-29</cell> + <cell>C. E. B. Watson</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Zermatt to Breil</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—P. Anderegg and A. Imboden.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">153</cell> + <cell>Aug. 30-Sept. 1</cell> + <cell>G. H. Savage</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Jos. Imboden and Franz Andermatten. + Dr. Savage slept on the Hörnli + Aug. 30; began the ascent by moonlight at a little before + 2 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi> on Sept. 1, reached + the summit at 6.30 <hi rend='small'>A.M.</hi>, and returned to + Zermatt by 12.30 <hi rend='small'>P.M.</hi></hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">154</cell> + <cell>Sept. 2-3</cell> + <cell>A. F. Mummery</cell> + <cell>Z’Mutt side</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Mr. Mummery was the first to ascend the + Matterhorn from the side of the Z’Mutt + Glacier. No details have been received.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">155</cell> + <cell>Sept. 2-3 </cell> + <cell>W. Penhall</cell> + <cell>Z’Mutt side</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Ferdinand Imseng and Louis Sorbrichen. + Mr. Penhall also made his ascent upon the Z’Mutt side, but took a route + more to the south than that followed by Mr. Mummery.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">156</cell> + <cell>Sept. 4-5</cell> + <cell>B. Wainewright</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Zermatt to Breil</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Jos. Imboden and Peter Sarbach.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">157</cell> + <cell>Sept. 4-5</cell> + <cell>H. Hoare</cell> + <cell>Zermatt</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guide—J. Anderegg and (porter) Jos. Chanton.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">158</cell> + <cell>Sept. 5-6</cell> + <cell>J. Baumann</cell> + <cell>Z’Mutt side</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—Petrus (Stalden) and Emile Rey. + Mr. Mummery’s route was followed.</hi></cell> + </row> + <row> + <cell rend="right">159</cell> + <cell>?</cell> + <cell>J. Maurer</cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Breil to Zermatt</hi></cell> + <cell><hi rend="small">Guides—? No information.</hi></cell> + </row> +</table> +</else></pgIf> + +<p> +The above table is known to be imperfect, and the Author will be obliged if +correspondents will enable him to correct and extend it. Communications should +be addressed to him <hi rend='italic'>Care of the Publisher</hi>. +</p> + +</div><div rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='323'/><anchor id='Pg323'/> +<index index="toc" level1="G. Courte Note sur la Géologie du Matterhorn"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="G. Courte Note sur la Geologie du Matterhorn"/> + +<head><hi rend='antiqua'>G.</hi> <hi rend='smallcaps'>Courte Note sur la Géologie du Matterhorn.</hi> <hi rend='smallcaps'>Par Signor +F. Giordano</hi>, Ingénieur en Chef des Mines d’Italie, etc. etc.</head> + +<p> +Le Matterhorn ou Mont Cervin est formé depuis la base jusqu’au sommet +de roches stratifiées en bancs assez réguliers, qui sont tous légèrement rélevés +vers l’Est, savoir vers le Mont Rose. Ces roches quoiqu’évidemment d’origine +sédimentaire ont une structure fortement cristalline qui doit être l’effet d’une +puissante action de métamorphisme très développée dans cette région des +Alpes. Dans la série des roches constituantes du Mont Cervin l’on peut faire +une distinction assez marquée, savoir celles formant la base inférieure de la +montagne, et celles formant le pic proprement dit. +</p> + +<p> +Les roches de la base qu’on voit dans le Val Tournanche, dans le vallon +de Z’Mutt, au col de Théodule et ailleurs, sont en général des schistes talqueux, +serpentineux, chloriteux, et amphiboliques, alternant fort souvent avec des +schistes calcaires à noyaux quartzeux. Ces schistes calcaires de couleur +brunâtre alternent ça et là avec des dolomies, des cargueules, et des quartzites +tégulaires. Cette formation calcaréo-serpentineuse est très étendue dans les +environs. Le pic au contraire est tout formé d’un gneiss talqueux, souvent à +gros éléments, alternant parfois à quelques bancs de schistes talqueux et +quartzeux, mais sans bancs calcaires. Vers le pied ouest du pic, le gneiss est +remplacé par de l’euphotide granitoïde massive, qui semble y former une grosse +lentille se fondant de tous côtés dans le gneiss même. Du reste, les roches du +Cervin montrent partout des exemples fort instructifs de passages graduels +d’une structure à l’autre, résultant du métamorphisme plus ou moins avancé. +</p> + +<p> +Le pic actuel n’est que le reste d’une puissante formation géologique +ancienne, triasique peut-être, dont les couches puissantes de plus de 3500 +mètres enveloppaient tout autour comme un immense manteau le grand massif +granitoïde et feldspathique du Mont Rose. Aussi son étude détaillée, qui par +exception est rendue fort facile par la profondeur des vallons d’où il surgit, +donne la clef de la structure géologique de beaucoup d’autres montagnes des +environs. On y voit partout le phénomène assez curieux d’une puissante +formation talqueuse très cristalline, presque granitoïde, régulièrement superposée +à une formation schisteuse et calcarifère. Cette même constitution géologique +est en partie la cause de la forme aiguë et de l’isolement du pic qui en font la +merveille des voyageurs. En effet, tandis que les roches feuilletées de la base, +étant facilement corrodées par l’action des météores et de l’eau, ont été facilement +creusées en vallées larges et profondes, la roche supérieure qui constitue +la pyramide donne lieu par sa dureté à des fendillements formant des parois +escarpées qui conservent au pic ce profil élancé, et caractéristique alpin. Les +glaciers qui entourent son pied de tous les côtés, en emportant d’une manière +continue les débris tombant de ses flancs, contribuent pour leur part à maintenir +cet isolement de la merveilleuse pyramide qui sans eux serait peut-être +déjà ensevelie sous ses propres ruines. +</p> + +<pb n='324'/><anchor id='Pg324'/> + +<p> +<hi rend='smallcaps'>References to the Geological Section of the Matterhorn.</hi> +</p> + + <list type="ordered" rend="list-style-type: none"> + <item n="I."> +Gneiss talqueux quartzifère. Beaucoup de traces de foudres. +</item> + +<item n="II."> +Banc de 3 à 4 mètres de schistes serpentineux et talqueux verts. +</item> + +<item n="III."> +Gneiss talqueux à éléments plus ou moins schisteux, avec quelque lit +de quartzite. +</item> + +<item n='â€'> +Gneiss et micaschistes ferrugineux à éléments très fins, beaucoup de +traces de foudre. +</item> + +<item n="IV."> +Gneiss alternant avec des schistes talqueux et à des felsites en zones +blanches et grises. +</item> + +<item n="V."> +Petite couche de schistes serpentineux, vert sombre. +</item> + +<item n="VI."> +Gneiss et micaschiste avec zones quartzifères rubanées. +</item> + +<item n="VII."> +Gneiss talqueux à éléments schisteux. +</item> + +<item n="VIII."> +<hi rend='italic'>Id.</hi> <hi rend='italic'>id.</hi> verdâtre, porphyroïde à éléments moyens. +</item> + +<item n="IX."> +Gneiss talqueux granitoïde à gros éléments et avec des cristaux de +feldspath. +</item> + +<item n="X."> +Schistes grisâtres. +</item> + +<item n="XI."> +Micaschistes ferrugineux. +</item> + +<item n="XII."> +Gneiss talqueux vert sombre. +</item> + +<item n="XIII."> +Gneiss et schistes quartzeux, couleur vert clair. +</item> + +<item n="XIV."> +Euphotide massive (feldspath et diallage) à éléments cristallins bien +développés, traversée par des veines d’eurite blanchâtre. Cette roche +forme un banc ou plutôt une lentille de plus de 500 mètres de +puissance intercalée au gneiss talqueux.<note place="foot">Cette roche granitoïde paraît surtout à la base ouest du pic sous le col du Lion, tandis +qu’elle ne paraît pas du tout sur le flanc est, où elle paraît passer au gneiss talqueux.</note> +</item> + +<item n="XV."> +Gneiss talqueux alternant avec des schistes talqueux et micacés. +</item> + +<item n="XVI."> +Schistes compactes, couleur vert clair. +</item> + +<item n="XVII."> +Calcaire cristallin micacé (calcschiste) avec veines et rognons de quartz. +Il alterne avec des schistes verts chloriteux et serpentineux. +</item> + +<item n="XVIII."> +Schistes verts chloriteux, serpentineux et talqueux, avec des masses +stéatiteuses. +</item> + +<item n="XIX."> +Calcschistes (comme ci-dessus) formant un banc de plus de 100 +mètres.<note place="foot">En plusieurs localités des environs, cette zone calcarifère présente des bancs et des +lentilles de dolomie, de cargueule, de gypse et de quartzite.</note> +</item> + +<item n="XX."> +Schistes verts chloriteux. +</item> + +<item n="XXI."> +Calcschistes (comme ci-dessus). +</item> + +<item n="XXII."> +Il suit ci-dessous une série fort puissante de schistes verts serpentineux, +chloriteux, talqueux et stéatiteux alternant encore avec des +calcschistes. En plusieurs localités les schistes deviennent très +amphiboliques à petits cristaux noirs. Cette puissante formation +calcaréo-serpentineuse repose inférieurement sur des micaschistes +et des gneiss anciens. +</item> + </list> +<pb n='325'/><anchor id='Pg325'/><anchor id="plate14"/> + <pgIf output="txt"><then> + <p rend="ill">[Illustration: GEOLOGICAL SECTION OF THE MATTERHORN. (MONT CERVIN)<lb/>BY SIGNOR + F. GIORDANO.]</p> + </then><else> + <p><figure url="images/illus372.png" rend="w100"> + <head rend="ill">GEOLOGICAL SECTION OF THE MATTERHORN. (MONT CERVIN)<lb/><hi rend="small">BY SIGNOR + F. GIORDANO.</hi></head> + <figDesc>Illustration: Geological section of the Matterhorn (Mont Cervin)</figDesc></figure></p> + </else></pgIf> +<pb n='326'/><anchor id='Pg326'/> +</div><div rend="page-break-before: always"> +<pb n='327'/><anchor id='Pg327'/> +<index index="toc" level1="H. Professor Tyndall and the Matterhorn"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="H. Professor Tyndall and the Matterhorn"/> +<head><hi rend='antiqua'>H.</hi> <hi rend='smallcaps'>Professor Tyndall and the Matterhorn.</hi></head> + +<p> +In the second edition of Tyndall’s <hi rend='italic'>Hours of Exercise in the Alps</hi> the Professor +made some additional remarks upon his defeat in 1862, and to these +remarks I replied in No. 35 of the <hi rend='italic'>Alpine Journal</hi>. I do not feel that the +additional information afforded in these publications possesses the least interest +to the majority of my readers, and therefore I do not reprint it; and I refer to +it only for the sake of those who may be desirous to pursue the subject. +</p><anchor id="ill325"/> +<anchor id="fig91"/><figure url="images/illus374.png" rend="w80"> + <figDesc>Illustration: <q>The things which tumble about the ears of unwary travellers</q></figDesc> +</figure> +<p rend="margin-top: 4; center"> +<hi rend="small">LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET +AND CHARING CROSS.</hi> +</p> +</div> +<div rend="page-break-before: always"> + <index index="toc" level1="Map: The Matterhorn and its glaciers"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Map: The Matterhorn and its glaciers"/> + <head>THE MATTERHORN AND ITS GLACIERS</head> +<anchor id="map1"/><p rend="center"><figure url="images/map1thumb.jpg" rend="w60"> + <figDesc>Map: The Matterhorn and its glaciers</figDesc></figure> +</p> + <pgIf output="html"><then><p rend="center"><xref url="images/map1.jpg">(larger version)</xref></p></then></pgIf> +</div> +<div rend="page-break-before: always"> + <index index="toc" level1="Map: The Valley of Zermatt; and the Central Pennine Alps"/> + <index index="pdf" level1="Map: The Valley of Zermatt; and the Central Pennine Alps"/> + <head>THE VALLEY OF ZERMATT</head> +<anchor id="map2"/><p rend="center"><figure url="images/map2thumb.jpg" rend="w60"> + <figDesc>Map: The Valley of Zermatt; and the Central Pennine Alps</figDesc></figure> +</p> + <pgIf output="html"><then><p rend="center"><xref url="images/map2.jpg">(larger version)</xref></p></then></pgIf> + </div> + </div> +<div><pgIf output="pdf"> + <then> + </then> + <else> + <div rend="page-break-before: always"> + <index index="toc"/> + <head>Footnotes</head> + <divGen type="footnotes"/> + </div> + + </else> + </pgIf></div> +<div rend="page-break-before:right; x-class: boxed"> + <index index="pdf" level1="Transcriber's Note"/><index index="toc" level1="Transcriber’s Note"/> + <head>Transcriber’s Note</head> + + <pgIf output="txt"><then><p>Italic type is marked by underscore (_), boldface by asterisk (*).</p></then> + </pgIf> + + <pgIf output="html"><then><p>The illustrations have been placed between paragraphs + in the electronic text. This may result in a changed page number in comparison to + the List of Illustrations.</p></then></pgIf> + <p>The following changes have been made to the text:</p> + <list> + <item><ref target="corr024">page 24</ref>, <q>fire</q> changed to <q>fir</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr178">page 178</ref>, <q>Cormayeur</q> changed to <q>Courmayeur</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr203">page 203</ref>, <q>regele</q> changed to <q>regale</q>, + <q>Pernn</q> changed to <ref target="corr203b"><q>Perrn</q></ref></item> + <item><ref target="corr243">page 243</ref>, <q>naturrally</q> changed to <q>naturally</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr269">page 269</ref>, opening quote added before <q>That</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr294">page 294</ref>, <q>crritical</q> changed to <q>critical</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr315">page 315</ref>, period added after <q>47-9</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr319">page 319</ref>, period added after <q>Andermatten</q></item> + <item><ref target="corr321">page 321</ref>, period added after <q>Taugwalder</q></item> + </list> + <p>Variations +in accentuation (<q>chalet</q>/<q>châlet</q>), hyphenation (e.g. <q>commonplace</q>/<q>common-place</q>, + <q>midday</q>/<q>mid-day</q>) and spelling (<q>Ortler</q>/<q>Orteler</q>) +have not been changed.</p> +</div> + <div rend="page-break-before: right"> + <divGen type="pgfooter"/> + </div> + </back> + </text> +</TEI.2> diff --git a/old/38044-tei/images/cover.jpg b/old/38044-tei/images/cover.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..21f06df --- /dev/null +++ b/old/38044-tei/images/cover.jpg diff --git a/old/38044-tei/images/illus001.jpg b/old/38044-tei/images/illus001.jpg Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..251f1fd --- /dev/null +++ b/old/38044-tei/images/illus001.jpg diff --git a/old/38044-tei/images/illus002.png b/old/38044-tei/images/illus002.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2141d3c --- /dev/null +++ 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b/old/38044.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c18c527 --- /dev/null +++ b/old/38044.txt @@ -0,0 +1,12763 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Ascent of the Matterhorn by Edward +Whymper + + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no +restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under +the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or +online at http://www.gutenberg.org/license + + + +Title: The Ascent of the Matterhorn + +Author: Edward Whymper + +Release Date: November 17, 2011 [Ebook #38044] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: US-ASCII + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN*** + + + + + + [Illustration: Cover] + +[Illustration: "THEY SAW MASSES OF ROCKS, BOULDERS, AND STONES, DART ROUND + THE CORNER."] + + + + + + THE ASCENT + + OF + + THE MATTERHORN + + BY + + EDWARD WHYMPER + + [Illustration: Vignette] + +WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS + + + Toil and pleasure, in their natures opposite, are yet linked + together in a kind of necessary connection.--LIVY. + + +LONDON +JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET +1880 + +_All rights are reserved_ + + + + + + PREFACE. + + +In the year 1860, shortly before leaving England for a long continental +tour, the late Mr. William Longman requested me to make for him some +sketches of the great Alpine peaks. At this time I had only a literary +acquaintance with mountaineering, and had even not seen--much less set foot +upon--a mountain. Amongst the peaks which were upon my list was Mont +Pelvoux, in Dauphine. The sketches that were required of it were to +celebrate the triumph of some Englishmen who intended to make its ascent. +They came--they saw--but they did not conquer. By a mere chance I fell in +with a very agreeable Frenchman who accompanied this party, and was +pressed by him to return to the assault. In 1861 we did so, with my friend +Macdonald--and we conquered. This was the origin of my scrambles amongst +the Alps. + +The ascent of Mont Pelvoux (including the disagreeables) was a very +delightful scramble. The mountain air did _not_ act as an emetic; the sky +did _not_ look black, instead of blue; nor did I feel tempted to throw +myself over precipices. I hastened to enlarge my experience, and went to +the Matterhorn. I was urged towards Mont Pelvoux by those mysterious +impulses which cause men to peer into the unknown. Not only was this +mountain reputed to be the highest in France, and on that account was +worthy of attention, but it was the dominating point of a most picturesque +district of the greatest interest, which, to this day, remains almost +unexplored! The Matterhorn attracted me simply by its grandeur. It was +considered to be the most thoroughly inaccessible of all mountains, even +by those who ought to have known better. Stimulated to make fresh +exertions by one repulse after another, I returned, year after year, as I +had opportunity, more and more determined to find a way up it, or to +_prove_ it to be really inaccessible. + +The chief part of this volume is occupied by the history of these attacks +on the Matterhorn, and the other excursions that are described have all +some connection, more or less remote, with that mountain or with Mont +Pelvoux. All are new excursions (that is, excursions made for the first +time), unless the contrary is pointed out. Some have been passed over very +briefly, and entire ascents or descents have been disposed of in a single +line. Generally speaking, the salient points alone have been dwelt upon, +and the rest has been left to the imagination. This treatment has spared +the reader from much useless repetition. + +In endeavouring to make the book of some use to those who may wish to go +mountain-scrambling, whether in the Alps or elsewhere, prominence has been +given to our mistakes and failures; and to some it may seem that our +practice must have been bad if the principles which are laid down are +sound, or that the principles must be unsound if the practice was good. +The principles which are brought under the notice of the reader are, +however, deduced from long experience, which experience had not been +gained at the time that the blunders were perpetrated; and, if it had been +acquired at an earlier date, there would have been fewer failures to +record. + +My scrambles amongst the Alps were a sort of apprenticeship in the art of +mountaineering, and they were, for the most part, carried out in the +company of men who were masters of their craft. In any art the learner, +who wishes to do good work, does well to associate himself with master +workmen, and I attribute much of the success which is recorded in this +volume to my having been frequently under the guidance of the best +mountaineers of the time. The hints and observations which are dispersed +throughout the volume are not the result of personal experience only, they +have been frequently derived from professional mountaineers, who have +studied the art from their youth upwards. + +Without being unduly discursive in the narrative, it has not been possible +to include in the text all the observations which are desirable for the +general reader, and a certain amount of elementary knowledge has been +pre-supposed, which perhaps some do not possess; and the opportunity is +now taken of making a few remarks which may serve to elucidate those which +follow. + +When a man who is not a born mountaineer gets upon the side of a mountain, +he speedily finds out that walking is an art; and very soon wishes that he +could be a quadruped or a centipede, or anything except a biped; but, as +there is a difficulty in satisfying these very natural desires, he +ultimately procures an alpenstock and turns himself into a tripod. This +simple implement is invaluable to the mountaineer, and when he is parted +from it involuntarily (and who has not been?) he is inclined to say, just +as one may remark of other friends, "You were only a stick--a poor +stick--but you were a true friend, and I should like to be in your company +again." + + [Illustration: Point of Alpenstock] + +Respecting the size of the alpenstock, let it be remarked that it may be +nearly useless if it be too long or too short. It should always be shorter +than the person who carries it, but it may be any length you like between +three-fifths of your height and your extreme altitude. It should be made +of ash, of the very best quality; and should support your weight upon its +centre when it is suspended at its two ends. Unless shod with an iron +point it can scarcely be termed an alpenstock, and the nature of the point +is of some importance. The kind I prefer is shown in the annexed +illustration. It has a long tang running into the wood, is supported by a +rivetted collar, and its termination is extremely sharp. With a point of +this description steps can be made in ice almost as readily as with an +axe. + +A volume might be written upon the use of the alpenstock. Its principal +use is as a third leg, to extend one's base line; and when the beginner +gets this well into his head he finds the implement of extraordinary +value. In these latter times the pure and simple alpenstock has gone out +of fashion, and mountaineers now almost universally carry a stick with a +point at one end and an axe-head at the other. A moveable axe-head is +still a desideratum. There is a pick-axe made at Birmingham with a +moveable head which is better than any other kind that I have seen, but +the head is too clumsy to be held in the hand, and various improvements +will have to be effected in it before it will be fit for use in +mountaineering. Still, its principle appears to me to be capable of +adaptation, and on that account I have introduced it here. + + [Illustration: Birmingham pick-axe with moveable head] + + [Illustration: Russian furnace] + +After the alpenstock, or axe-alpenstock, it is of most importance for the +mountaineer to supply himself with plenty of good rope. Enough has been +said on this subject in different parts of the narrative, as well as in +regard to tents. Few other articles are _necessary_, though many others +are _desirable_, to carry about, and amongst the most important may be +reckoned some simple means of boiling water and cooking. At considerable +altitudes above the tree-line, it is frequently impossible to carry up +wood enough for a camp-fire, and nothing but spirits of wine can be +employed. The well-known and convenient so-called "Russian furnace" is the +most compact form of spirit lamp that I know, and wonders can be effected +with one that is only three inches in diameter. In conjunction with a set +of tins like those figured here (which are constructed to be used either +with a wood fire or over a spirit lamp), all the cooking can be done that +the Alpine tourist requires. For prolonged expeditions of a serious nature +a more elaborate equipage is necessary; but upon such small ones as are +made in the Alps it would be unnecessarily encumbering yourself to take a +whole _batterie de cuisine_.(1) + + [Illustration: Cooking tins] + +Before passing on to speak of clothing, a word upon snow-blindness will +not be out of place. Very fine language is sometimes used to express the +fact that persons suffer from their eyes becoming inflamed; and there is +one well-known traveller, at least, who, when referring to snow-blindness, +speaks habitually of the distressing effects which are produced by "the +reverberation of the snow." Snow-blindness is a malady which touches all +mountain-travellers sooner or later, for it is found impossible in +practice always to protect the eyes with the goggles which are shown +overleaf. In critical situations almost every one removes them. The +beginner should, however, note that at great altitudes it is not safe to +leave the eyes unprotected even on rocks, when the sun is shining +brightly; and upon snow or ice it is indispensable to shade them in some +manner, unless you wish to be placed _hors de combat_ on the next day. +Should you unfortunately find yourself in this predicament through the +intensity of the light, there is no help but in sulphate of zinc and +patience. Of the former material a half-ounce will be sufficient for a +prolonged campaign, as a lotion compounded with two or three grains to an +ounce of water will give relief; but of patience you can hardly lay in too +large a stock, as a single bad day sometimes throws a man on his back for +weeks.(2) + + [Illustration: Snow spectacles] + +The whole face suffers under the alternation of heat, cold, and glare, and +few mountain-travellers remain long without having their visages blistered +and cracked in all directions. Now, in respect to this matter, prevention +is better than cure; and, though these inconveniences cannot be entirely +escaped, they may, by taking trouble, be deferred for a long time. As a +travelling cap for mountain expeditions, there is scarcely anything better +than the kind of helmet used by Arctic travellers, and with the eyes well +shaded by its projecting peak and covered with the ordinary goggles one +ought not, and will not, suffer much from snow-blindness. I have found, +however, that it does not sufficiently shade the face, and that it shuts +out sound too much when the side-flaps are down; and I consequently adopt +a woollen headpiece, which almost entirely covers or shades the face and +extends well downwards on to the shoulders. One hears sufficiently +distinctly through the interstices of the knitted wool, and they also +permit some ventilation--which the Arctic cap does not. It is a useful +rather than an ornamental article of attire, and strangely affects one's +appearance. + + [Illustration: Arctic cap] + +For the most severe weather even this is not sufficient, and a mask must +be added to protect the remainder of the face. You then present the +appearance of the lower woodcut, and are completely disguised. Your most +intimate friends--even your own mother--will disown you, and you are a fit +subject for endless ridicule. + + [Illustration: The complete disguise] + +The alternations of heat and cold are rapid and severe in all high +mountain ranges, and it is folly to go about too lightly clad. Woollen +gloves ought always to be in the mountaineer's pocket, for in a single +hour, or less, he may experience a fall in temperature of sixty to eighty +degrees. But in respect to the nature of the clothing there is little to +be said beyond that it should be composed of flannels and woollens. + +Upon the important subject of boots much might be written. My friends are +generally surprised to find that I use elastic-side boots whilst +mountaineering, and condemn them under the false impression that they will +not give support to the ankles, and will be pulled off when one is +traversing deep snow. I have invariably used elastic-side boots on my +mountain expeditions in the Alps and elsewhere, and have found that they +give sufficient support to the ankles and never draw off. My Alpine boots +have always been made by Norman--a maker who knows what the requirements +are, and one who will give a good boot if allowed good time. + +It is fully as important to have proper nails in the boots as it is to +have good boots. The quantity is frequently overdone, and when there are +too many they are absolutely dangerous. Ice-nails, which may be considered +a variety of crampon, are an abomination. The nails should be neither too +large nor too numerous, and they should be disposed everywhere +irregularly--not symmetrically. They disappear one by one, from time to +time; and the prudent mountaineer continually examines his boots to see +that sufficient numbers are left.(3) A handkerchief tied round the foot, +or even a few turns of cord, will afford a tolerable substitute when nails +cannot be procured. + +If the beginner supplies himself with the articles which have been named, +he will be in possession of all the gear which is _necessary_ for ordinary +mountain excursions, and if he uses his plant properly he will avoid many +of the disagreeables which are looked upon by some as almost unavoidable +accompaniments of the sport of mountaineering. I have not throughout the +volume ignored the dangers which are real and unavoidable, and say +distinctly that too great watchfulness cannot be exercised at great +altitudes. But I say now, as I have frequently said before, that the great +majority of accidents which occur to mountaineers, especially to +mountaineering amateurs in the Alps, are not the result of unavoidable +dangers; and that they are for the most part the product of ignorance and +neglect. I consider that falling rocks are the greatest danger which a +mountaineer is likely to encounter, and in concluding these prefatory +remarks I especially warn the novice against the things which tumble about +the ears of unwary travellers. + + + + + + CONTENTS. + + + 1860 + + CHAPTER I. + + INTRODUCTORY. + +BEACHY HEAD--DEVIL OF NOTRE DAME--VISP THAL--SCRAMBLING ALONE--THE +WEISSHORN--ST. BERNARD--RASCALLY GUIDE--A VILLAGE CONCERT--STORM ON THE COL DE +LAUTARET + + Pages 1-12 + + 1861 + + CHAPTER II. + + THE ASCENT OF MONT PELVOUX. + +THE VALLEYS OF DAUPHINE--THE PEAKS OF DAUPHINE--MISTAKES IN THEIR +IDENTIFICATION--EARLY ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND MONT PELVOUX--INTRODUCTION TO +MONSIEUR REYNAUD--GRENOBLE--MEETING WITH MACDONALD--NATIONAL SENTIMENTS--WE +ENGAGE A GUIDE--START FOR PELVOUX--PASS THE CAVERN OF THE VAUDOIS--MASSACRE +OF THE VAUDOIS--FIRST NIGHT OUT--WE ARE REPULSED--ARRIVAL OF MACDONALD--THIRD +NIGHT OUT--TORRENTS ON FIRE--FALLING ROCKS--ASCENT OF THE PELVOUX--THE +PYRAMID--VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT--WE DISCOVER THE POINTE DES ECRINS--SURPRISED +BY NIGHT--ON FLEAS--EN ROUTE FOR MONTE VISO--DESERTERS--CAMP ON AN +ANT-HILL--ST. VERAN--PRIMITIVE MANNERS--NATURAL PILLARS--ARRIVE AT BRIANCON + + 13-41 + + CHAPTER III. + + MY FIRST SCRAMBLE ON THE MATTERHORN. + +THE WEISSHORN AND THE MATTERHORN--INTRODUCTION TO JEAN-ANTOINE +CARREL--SUPERSTITIONS OF THE NATIVES IN REGARD TO THE MATTERHORN--RIDGES OF +THE MATTERHORN--EARLIEST ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MOUNTAIN--ATTEMPT BY THE +MESSRS. PARKER--ATTEMPT BY MESSRS. HAWKINS AND TYNDALL--ARRIVE AT +BREIL--UNWILLINGNESS OF THE GUIDES TO HAVE ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE +MATTERHORN--THE CARRELS ENDEAVOUR TO CUT US OUT--THE "GREAT STAIRCASE"--THE +COL DU LION--WE DECIDE TO CAMP THERE--GREAT EXCITEMENT FROM FALLING +STONES--LIGHT AND SHADE--THE "CHIMNEY"--DEFEATED--A COOL PROCEEDING + + 42-57 + + 1862 + + CHAPTER IV. + + RENEWED ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN. + +MR. KENNEDY'S WINTER ATTEMPT--BENNEN REFUSES TO START AGAIN--THE THEODULE +PASS--MEYNET, THE HUNCHBACK OF BREIL--ON TENTS FOR MOUNTAINEERING--MACDONALD +AND I START FOR THE MATTERHORN--NARROW ESCAPE OF KRONIG--VIOLENT WIND TURNS +US BACK--ENGAGE CARREL AND PESSION AND START AGAIN--THE "GREAT +TOWER"--PESSION BECOMES ILL AND WE ARE OBLIGED TO RETURN--BAD +WEATHER--SCRAMBLE ALONE ON THE MATTERHORN--PIONEERS OF VEGETATION--VIEW FROM +THE TENT--A SOLITARY BIVOUAC--MONTE VISO SEEN BY MOONLIGHT AT NINETY-EIGHT +MILES' DISTANCE--ON AIDS TO CLIMBERS--CLIMBING CLAW--FIND A NEW PLACE FOR THE +TENT--I ATTAIN A GREATER ALTITUDE ALONE THAN HAD BEEN REACHED BEFORE, AND +NEARLY COME TO GRIEF--MY FOURTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN--DEFEATED +AGAIN BY WEATHER--THE CARRELS GO MARMOT-HUNTING, AND WE START FOR A FIFTH +ATTEMPT--DEFEATED BY NATURAL DIFFICULTIES--TYNDALL ARRIVES AND CARRIES OFF +THE CARRELS--A CANNONADE ON THE MATTERHORN--TYNDALL IS +REPULSED--CONFLAGRATION IN DAUPHINE + + 58-87 + + 1863 + + CHAPTER V. + + THE VAL TOURNANCHE--THE BREUILJOCH--ZERMATT--FIRST ASCENT OF THE GRAND + TOURNALIN. + +THE DOUANE--"BUT WHAT IS THIS?"--DIFFICULTIES WITH MY LADDER--EXPLANATION OF +TYNDALL'S REPULSE--ROMAN (?) AQUEDUCT IN THE VAL TOURNANCHE--ASCEND THE +CIMES BLANCHES--WE DECEIVE A GOAT--WE INVENT A NEW PASS TO ZERMATT +(BREUILJOCH)--AQUEOUS AND GLACIER EROSION--GLACIER VERSUS ROCKS--SEILER'S +DISINTERESTEDNESS--THE MATTERHORN CLIFFS--EXTRAORDINARY ACCIDENT TO A +CHAMOIS--COL DE VALPELLINE--THE MASTER OF PRERAYEN--ATTEMPT TO ASCEND DENT +D'ERIN (D'HERENS)--THE VA CORNERE PASS--FIRST ASCENT OF THE GRAND +TOURNALIN--SPLENDID VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT--ON PANORAMIC VIEWS--GOUFFRE DES +BUSSERAILLES--AN ENTERPRISING INNKEEPER + + 88-113 + + CHAPTER VI. + + OUR SIXTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN. + +EXTREMES MEET--THUNDER AND LIGHTNING--ECHOES OF THUNDER--GREAT ROCKFALLS +DURING THE NIGHT--DEFEATED BY THE WEATHER--MYSTERIOUS MISTS + + 114-123 + + 1864 + + CHAPTER VII. + + FROM ST. MICHEL TO LA BERARDE BY THE COL DES AIGS. D'ARVE, COL DE + MARTIGNARE, AND THE BRECHE DE LA MEIJE. + +RETURN AGAIN TO DAUPHINE--MICHEL CROZ--COL DE VALLOIRES--THE AIGUILLES +D'ARVE--WE MAKE A PASS BETWEEN THEM--COL DE MARTIGNARE--ASCENT OF THE AIG. DE +LA SAUSSE--THE MEIJE--FIRST PASSAGE OF THE BRECHE DE LA MEIJE--MELCHIOR +ANDEREGG--LA GRAVE--THE BRECHE IS WON--THE VALLON DES ETANCONS + + 124-144 + + CHAPTER VIII. + + THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE POINTE DES ECRINS. + +LA BERARDE--PIC THE PORTER--BIVOUAC ON THE GLACIER DE LA BONNE +PIERRE--DISSOLVING VIEWS--DRYNESS OF THE AIR--TOPOGRAPHY OF CENTRAL DAUPHINE +ALPS--FIRST ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE ECRINS--A MIGHTY AVALANCHE--OUR ASCENT OF +THE FINAL PEAK--ON SPLINTERS FROM SUMMITS--LE JEU NE VAUT PAS LA +CHANDELLE--SHATTERED RIDGE--ALMER'S LEAP--SURPRISED BY NIGHT--A WARNING + + 145-165 + + CHAPTER IX. + + FROM VAL LOUISE TO LA BERARDE BY THE COL DE PILATTE. + +CHALETS OF ENTRAIGUES--ARRIVAL OF REYNAUD--ON SNOW COULOIRS--SUMMIT OF THE +COL--EXCITING DESCENT--REYNAUD COMES OVER THE SCHRUND--THE LAST OF DAUPHINE + + 166-175 + + CHAPTER X. + +THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DE TRIOLET, AND FIRST ASCENTS OF MONT DOLENT, + AIGUILLE DE TRELATETE, AND AIGUILLE D'ARGENTIERE. + +MAPS OF MONT BLANC--MR. ADAMS-REILLY--OUR COMPACT--THE PEAKS OF THE MONT +BLANC RANGE--ACROSS THE COL DE TRIOLET--A MINIATURE ASCENT--REILLY ADVOCATES +PATIENCE--BIVOUAC ON MONT SUC--THE FIRST ASCENT OF AIG. DE TRELATETE--THE +MORAINE OF THE MIAGE--ON MORAINES IN GENERAL--ERRONEOUS VIEWS RESPECTING +THEM--OUR FIRST ATTEMPT TO ASCEND AIG. D'ARGENTIERE--A CONCEALED +CAVERN--SUCCESS AT LAST--MR. REILLY'S MAP + + 176-192 + + CHAPTER XI. + + THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE MOMING PASS--ZINAL TO ZERMATT. + +SWISS MENDICANTS--NIGHT ON THE ARPITETTA ALP--A PERILOUS +PATH--ICE-AVALANCHE--SUMMIT OF THE MOMING PASS--CROZ DISTINGUISHES +HIMSELF--THE CLUB-ROOM OF ZERMATT + + 193-203 + + 1865 + + CHAPTER XII. + + THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE GRAND CORNIER. + +ON CHOICE OF ROUTES--REGRETS--ZINAL--ASCENT OF THE GRAND CORNIER--EFFECTS OF +SUN AND FROST--GREAT RIDGES SUFFER MOST--POINTS OF DIFFERENCE BETWEEN +ATMOSPHERIC AND GLACIER EROSION--ABRICOLLA + + 204-214 + + CHAPTER XIII. + + THE ASCENT OF THE DENT BLANCHE. + +LESLIE STEPHEN--KENNEDY'S ASCENT--ON BERGSCHRUNDS--UNWELCOME ATTENTIONS--A +RACE FOR LIFE--BENIGHTED--A SURPRISE + + 215-222 + + CHAPTER XIV. + + LOST ON THE COL D'HERENS--SEVENTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN--THE + FIRST ASCENT OF THE GRANDES JORASSES. + +A LATE START AND THE RESULT--BEWILDERED--RETURN TO ABRICOLLA--CROSS COL +D'HERENS TO ZERMATT--ASCEND THE THEODULHORN--NEW IDEAS REGARDING THE +MATTERHORN--DECEPTIVENESS OF THE EAST FACE--STRATIFICATION--DIP OF THE +BEDS--TRY ANOTHER ROUTE--"SAUVE QUI PEUT"--BEATEN AGAIN--ASCENT OF THE GRANDES +JORASSES--NARROW ESCAPE FROM AN AVALANCHE + + 223-238 + + CHAPTER XV. + + THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DOLENT. + +CONFUSION OF IDEAS--A MIDNIGHT START--SUMMIT OF THE PASS--EXTRAORDINARY +ICE-WALL--MANNER OF ITS DESCENT--ON ICE-AXES AND THEIR USE--ON ICE-SLOPES AND +THEIR SAFETY--CRAMPONS--ARRIVAL AT CHAMOUNIX + + 239-246 + + CHAPTER XVI. + + THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE VERTE. + +CROZ LEAVES US--CHRISTIAN ALMER--SUNSET ON THE MER DE GLACE--ASCENT OF THE +AIGUILLE--ADVICE TO MOUNTAIN WALKERS--VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT--STORMS COME ON--A +WORTHY PORTER--THE NOBLE ATTITUDE OF CHAMOUNIX + + 247-254 + + CHAPTER XVII. + + THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DE TALEFRE. + +THE COL DU GEANT--THE GLACIER DE TALEFRE--EASY WAY FROM CHAMOUNIX TO +COURMAYEUR--GLISSADING--PASSES OVER THE MAIN CHAIN OF MONT BLANC + + 255-258 + + CHAPTER XVIII. + + THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE RUINETTE--THE MATTERHORN. + +FACILITY WITH WHICH THE RUINETTE CAN BE ASCENDED--NOBLE PANORAMA--ON +CONCEALED CREVASSES--GUIDES' OBJECTION TO USE OF THE ROPE--ON THE USE AND +ABUSE OF THE ROPE--ALMER DECLINES THE MATTERHORN--ENGAGE THE CARRELS--THEIR +DEFECTION--THE ITALIANS STEAL A MARCH--ARRIVAL OF LORD FRANCIS +DOUGLAS--MEETING WITH CROZ, HUDSON, AND HADOW + + 259-272 + + CHAPTER XIX. + + THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN. + +CHARLES HUDSON--CAMP ON THE EAST FACE--CROZ REPORTS FAVOURABLY--ASCENT OF THE +EASTERN FACE--CROSS TO THE NORTHERN SIDE--ARRIVAL AT SUMMIT--DISCOMFITURE OF +THE ITALIANS--ASTONISHMENT AT BREIL--MARVELLOUS PANORAMA + + 273-283 + + CHAPTER XX. + + THE DESCENT OF THE MATTERHORN. + +ORDER OF THE DESCENT--A FRIGHTFUL AVALANCHE--HADOW SLIPS--DEATH OF CROZ, +HADOW, HUDSON, AND LORD F. DOUGLAS--TERROR OF THE TAUGWALDERS--THE BROKEN +ROPE--AN APPARITION--AN INFAMOUS PROPOSITION--SURPRISED BY NIGHT--SEARCH FOR +AND RECOVERY OF THE BODIES--OFFICIAL EXAMINATION--THE END + + 284-298 + + APPENDIX. + + PAGE +*A.* THE DEATH OF BENNEN 301 +*B.* STRUCK BY LIGHTNING UPON THE MATTERHORN 303 +*C.* NOTE ON THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN FRANCE 304 +*D.* SUBSEQUENT HISTORY OF THE MATTERHORN 304 +*E.* TABLE OF ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN 315 +*F.* TABLE OF ASCENTS OF THE MATTERHORN 316 +*G.* GEOLOGY OF THE MATTERHORN, BY SIG. F. GIORDANO 323 +*H.* PROFESSOR TYNDALL AND THE MATTERHORN 325 + + + + + + LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + + + The Drawings were made on the Wood by +H. J. BOOT, GUSTAVE DORE, C. JOHNSON, J. MAHONEY, J. W. NORTH, P. SKELTON, +W. G. SMITH, C. J. STANILAND, and J. WOLF; and were Engraved by J. W. and + EDWARD WHYMPER. + + FULL PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. + + 1. "THEY SAW MASSES OF ROCKS, BOULDERS AND _Frontispiece._ + STONES, BIG AND LITTLE, DART ROUND THE + CORNER" + 2. OUTLINES OF THE MATTERHORN FROM THE _To face page_ 44 + NORTH-EAST AND FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE + THEODULE PASS (TO SHOW RIDGES, AND POINTS + ATTAINED ON THE DIFFERENT ATTEMPTS TO + ASCEND THE MOUNTAIN) + 3. THE MATTERHORN, FROM NEAR THE SUMMIT OF " 46 + THE THEODULE PASS + 4. "THE CHIMNEY" " 76 + 5. "IN ATTEMPTING TO PASS THE CORNER I " 78 + SLIPPED AND FELL" + 6. A CANNONADE ON THE MATTERHORN (1862) " 84 + 7. "THEY SCATTERED IN A PANIC WHEN SALUTED BY " 107 + THE CRIES OF MY EXCITED COMRADE" + 8. THE CRAGS OF THE MATTERHORN, DURING THE " 120 + STORM, MIDNIGHT, AUGUST 10, 1863 + 9. THE CLUB-ROOM OF ZERMATT IN 1864 " 202 +10. THE MATTERHORN FROM THE RIFFELBERG " 227 +11. SECTIONS OF THE MATTERHORN " 230 +12. FOG-BOW, SEEN FROM THE MATTERHORN ON JULY " 288 + 14, 1865 +13. THE HUT ON THE EASTERN FACE (ZERMATT SIDE) " 309 + OF THE MATTERHORN +14. GEOLOGICAL SECTION OF THE MATTERHORN " 324 + + IN THE TEXT. + + PAGE + 1. POINT OF ALPENSTOCK vii + 2. BIRMINGHAM PICK-AXE WITH MOVEABLE HEAD viii + 3. RUSSIAN FURNACE viii + 4. COOKING TINS ix + 5. SNOW SPECTACLES x + 6. ARCTIC CAP xi + 7. THE COMPLETE DISGUISE xi + 8. BEACHY HEAD 1 + 9. THE DEVIL OF NOTRE DAME 2 +10. THE CHURCH IN DIFFICULTIES 5 +11. AT THE ST. BERNARD 6 +12. THE VILLAGE OF BIONA 7 +13. CROSSING MONT CENIS 9 +14. "GARIBALDI!" 10 +15. A BIT OF THE VILLAGE OF ZERMATT 12 +16. BRIANCON 13 +17. MONT PELVOUX FROM ABOVE LA BESSEE 19 +18. THE GRAND PELVOUX DE VAL LOUISE 21 +19. BUTTRESSES OF MONT PELVOUX 26 +20. PORTRAIT OF THE LATE R. J. S. MACDONALD 29 +21. OUTLINE TO SHOW ROUTE UP MONT PELVOUX 31 +22. THE BLANKET BAG 38 +23. NATURAL PILLAR NEAR MOLINES 40 +24. PORTRAIT OF THE LATE J. J. BENNEN 48 +25. PORTRAIT OF JEAN-ANTOINE CARREL 51 +26. THE COL DU LION: LOOKING TOWARDS THE TETE DU LION 53 +27. DIAGRAM TO SHOW MANNER OF FASTENING TENT-POLES 62 +28. THE AUTHOR'S MOUNTAIN TENT 62 +29. CLIMBING CLAW 72 +30. ROPE AND RING 73 +31. AT BREIL (GIOMEIN) 79 +32. THE MATTERHORN FROM BREIL 85 +33. "BUT WHAT IS THIS?" 88 +34. AN ARCH OF THE AQUEDUCT IN THE VAL TOURNANCHE 92 +35. WATER-WORN ROCKS IN THE GORGE BELOW THE GORNER GLACIER 96 +36. STRIATIONS PRODUCED BY GLACIER-ACTION 97 +37. CHAMOIS IN DIFFICULTIES 102 +38. "CARREL LOWERED ME DOWN" 108 +39. PORTRAIT OF THE LATE CANON CARREL OF AOSTA 109 +40. PORTRAIT OF MONSIEUR FAVRE 121 +41. CROSSING THE CHANNEL 123 +42. PORTRAIT OF THE LATE MICHEL-AUGUSTE CROZ 125 +43. PLAN TO SHOW ROUTE 128 +44. THE AIGUILLES D'ARVE, FROM ABOVE THE CHALETS OF RIEU BLANC 130 +45. PORTRAIT OF MELCHIOR ANDEREGG 138 +46. MAP OF THE BRECHE DE LA MEIJE, ETC. 140 +47. DIAGRAM TO SHOW ANGLE OF SUMMIT OF MEIJE, ETC. 142 +48. THE VALLON DES ETANCONS 143 +49. MAP OF THE CENTRAL DAUPHINE ALPS 146 +50. THE POINTE DES ECRINS FROM THE COL DU GALIBIER 155 +51. OUTLINE TO SHOW ROUTE UP POINTE DES ECRINS 156 +52. FRAGMENT FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE POINTE DES ECRINS 159 +53. A NIGHT WITH CROZ 164 +54. A SNOW COULOIR 169 +55. PORTRAITS OF MR. REILLY ON A WET DAY 184 +56. OUR CAMP ON MONT SUC 185 +57. ICE-AVALANCHE ON THE MOMING PASS 198 +58. SUMMIT OF THE MOMING PASS 200 +59. FACSIMILE OF A LETTER FROM CROZ 208 +60. PART OF THE SOUTHERN RIDGE OF THE GRAND CORNIER 210 +61. PART OF THE NORTHERN RIDGE OF THE GRAND CORNIER 211 +62. PORTRAIT OF LESLIE STEPHEN 215 +63. THE BERGSCHRUND ON THE DENT BLANCHE 217 +64. PORTRAIT OF T. S. KENNEDY 222 +65. DIAGRAMS TO SHOW DIP OF STRATA ON THE MATTERHORN 229 +66. MY TENT-BEARER--THE HUNCHBACK 234 +67. THE GRANDES JORASSES AND THE DOIRE TORRENT 237 +68. THE SUMMIT OF THE COL DOLENT 241 +69. MY ICE-AXE 243 +70. KENNEDY ICE-AXE 244 +71. LESLIE STEPHEN ICE-AXE 244 +72. CRAMPON 245 +73. PORTRAIT OF CHRISTIAN ALMER 248 +74. ON THE MER DE GLACE 249 +75. WESTERN SIDE OF THE COL DE TALEFRE 255 +76. GLISSADING 257 +77. THE WRONG WAY TO USE A ROPE ON GLACIER 263 +78. THE RIGHT WAY TO USE A ROPE ON GLACIER 264 +79. "CROZ! CROZ!! COME HERE!" 279 +80. THE SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1865 281 +81. THE ACTUAL SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN 284 +82. ROPE BROKEN ON THE MATTERHORN 287 +83. DIAGRAM OF FOG-BOW 289 +84. PORTRAIT OF MONSIEUR ALEX. SEILER 290 +85. THE MANILLA ROPE BROKEN ON THE MATTERHORN 292 +86. THE "SECOND" ROPE BROKEN ON THE MATTERHORN 293 +87. THE ENGLISH CHURCH AT ZERMATT 294 +88. THE END 298 +89. THE CHAPEL AT THE SCHWARZSEE 310 +90. THE SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1874 (NORTHERN END) 311 +91. "THE THINGS WHICH TUMBLE ABOUT THE EARS OF UNWARY 325 + TRAVELLERS" + + MAPS. + + _To be placed at the end of the Volume._ + + 1. THE MATTERHORN AND ITS GLACIERS (_in colours_). + + 2. THE VALLEY OF ZERMATT; AND THE CENTRAL PENNINE ALPS. + + +The body of the work has been printed by Messrs. WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS; + and the separate Plates have been printed by the AUTHOR. + + + + + + + THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN + + [Illustration: BEACHY HEAD.] + + + + + + CHAPTER I. + + +On the 23d of July 1860, I started for my first tour in the Alps. As we +steamed out into the Channel, Beachy Head came into view, and recalled a +scramble of many years ago. With the impudence of ignorance, my brother(4) +and I, schoolboys both, had tried to scale that great chalk cliff. Not the +head itself--where sea-birds circle, and where the flints are ranged so +orderly in parallel lines--but at a place more to the east, where the +pinnacle called the Devil's Chimney had fallen down. Since that time we +have been often in dangers of different kinds, but never have we more +nearly broken our necks than upon that occasion. + +In Paris I made two ascents. The first to the seventh floor of a house in +the Quartier Latin--to an artist friend, who was engaged, at the moment of +my entry, in combat with a little Jew. He hurled him with great good-will, +and with considerable force, into some of his crockery, and then +recommended me to go up the towers of Notre Dame. Half-an-hour later I +stood on the parapet of the great west front, by the side of the leering +fiend which for centuries has looked down upon the great city, and then +took rail to Switzerland; saw the sunlight lingering on the giants of the +Oberland; heard the echoes from the cow-horns in the Lauterbrunnen valley +and the avalanches rattling off the Jungfrau; and crossed the Gemmi into +the Valais. + + [Illustration: THE DEVIL OF NOTRE DAME.] + +I was bound for the valley of Saas, and my work took me high up the Alps +on either side; far beyond the limit of trees and the tracks of tourists. +The view from the slopes of the Weissmies, on the eastern side of the +valley, 5000 or 6000 feet above the village of Saas, is perhaps the finest +of its kind in the Alps. The full height of the three-peaked Mischabel +(the highest mountain in Switzerland) is seen at one glance; 11,000 feet +of dense forests, green alps, rocky pinnacles, and glittering glaciers. +The peaks seemed to me then to be hopelessly inaccessible from this +direction. + +I next descended the valley to the village of Stalden, and went up the +Visp Thal to Zermatt, and stopped there several days. Numerous traces of +the formidable earthquake-shocks of five years before still remained; +particularly at St. Nicholas, where the inhabitants had been terrified +beyond measure at the destruction of their churches and houses. At this +place, as well as at Visp, a large part of the population was obliged to +live under canvas for several months. It is remarkable that there was +hardly a life lost on this occasion, although there were about fifty +shocks, some of which were very severe. + +At Zermatt I wandered in many directions, but the weather was bad, and my +work was much retarded. One day, after spending a long time in attempts to +sketch near the Hoernli, and in futile endeavours to seize the forms of the +peaks as they for a few seconds peered out from above the dense banks of +woolly clouds, I determined not to return to Zermatt by the usual path, +and to cross the Gorner glacier to the Riffel hotel. After a rapid +scramble over the polished rocks and snowbeds which skirt the base of the +Theodule glacier, and wading through some of the streams which flow from +it, at that time much swollen by the late rains, the first difficulty was +arrived at, in the shape of a precipice about three hundred feet high. It +seemed that it would be easy enough to cross the glacier if the cliff +could be descended; but higher up, and lower down, the ice appeared, to my +inexperienced eyes, to be impassable for a single person. The general +contour of the cliff was nearly perpendicular, but it was a good deal +broken up, and there was little difficulty in descending by zigzagging +from one mass to another. At length there was a long slab, nearly smooth, +fixed at an angle of about forty degrees between two wall-sided pieces of +rock. Nothing, except the glacier, could be seen below. It was an awkward +place, but I passed it at length by lying across the slab, putting the +shoulders stiffly against one side, and the feet against the other, and +gradually wriggling down, by first moving the legs and then the back. When +the bottom of the slab was gained a friendly crack was seen, into which +the point of the baton could be stuck, and I dropped down to the next +piece. It took a long time coming down that little bit of cliff, and for a +few seconds it was satisfactory to see the ice close at hand. In another +moment a second difficulty presented itself. The glacier swept round an +angle of the cliff, and as the ice was not of the nature of treacle or +thin putty, it kept away from the little bay, on the edge of which I +stood. We were not widely separated, but the edge of the ice was higher +than the opposite edge of rock; and worse, the rock was covered with loose +earth and stones which had fallen from above. All along the side of the +cliff, as far as could be seen in both directions, the ice did not touch +it, but there was this marginal crevasse, seven feet wide, and of unknown +depth. + +All this was seen at a glance, and almost at once I concluded that I could +not jump the crevasse, and began to try along the cliff lower down; but +without success, for the ice rose higher and higher, until at last further +progress was stopped by the cliffs becoming perfectly smooth. With an axe +it would have been possible to cut up the side of the ice; without one I +saw there was no alternative but to return and face the jump. + +Night was approaching, and the solemn stillness of the High Alps was +broken only by the sound of rushing water or of falling rocks. If the jump +should be successful,--well; if not, I fell into that horrible chasm, to be +frozen in, or drowned in that gurgling, rushing water. Everything depended +on that jump. Again I asked myself, "Can it be done?" It _must_ be. So, +finding my stick was useless, I threw it and the sketch-book to the ice, +and first retreating as far as possible, ran forward with all my might, +took the leap, barely reached the other side, and fell awkwardly on my +knees. + +The glacier was crossed without further trouble, but the Riffel,(5) which +was then a very small building, was crammed with tourists, and could not +take me in. As the way down was unknown to me, some of the people +obligingly suggested getting a man at the chalets, otherwise the path +would be certainly lost in the forest. On arriving at the chalets no man +could be found, and the lights of Zermatt, shining through the trees, +seemed to say, "Never mind a guide, but come along down, I'll show you the +way;" so off I went through the forest, going straight towards them. The +path was lost in a moment, and was never recovered. I was tripped up by +pine-roots, tumbled over rhododendron bushes, fell over rocks. The night +was pitch dark, and after a time the lights of Zermatt became obscure, or +went out altogether. By a series of slides, or falls, or evolutions more +or less disagreeable, the descent through the forest was at length +accomplished; but torrents of formidable character had still to be passed +before one could arrive at Zermatt. I felt my way about for hours, almost +hopelessly; by an exhaustive process at last discovering a bridge, and +about midnight, covered with dirt and scratches, re-entered the inn which +I had quitted in the morning. + + [Illustration: The church in difficulties] + +Others besides tourists get into difficulties. A day or two afterwards, +when on the way to my old station, near the Hoernli, I met a stout cure who +had essayed to cross the Theodule pass. His strength or his wind had +failed, and he was being carried down, a helpless bundle and a ridiculous +spectacle, on the back of a lanky guide; while the peasants stood by, with +folded hands, their reverence for the church almost overcome by their +sense of the ludicrous. + +I descended the valley, diverging from the path at Randa to mount the +slopes of the Dom,(6) in order to see the Weisshorn face to face. The +latter mountain is the noblest in Switzerland, and from this direction it +looks especially magnificent. On its north there is a large snowy plateau +that feeds the glacier of which a portion is seen from Randa, and which on +more than one occasion has destroyed that village. From the direction of +the Dom (that is, immediately opposite) this Bies glacier seems to descend +nearly vertically. It does not do so, although it is very steep. Its size +is much less than formerly, and the lower portion, now divided into three +tails, clings in a strange, weird-like manner to the cliffs, to which it +seems scarcely possible that it can remain attached. + + [Illustration: At the St. Bernard] + +Arriving once more in the Rhone valley, I proceeded to Viesch, and from +thence ascended the Eggischorn; on which unpleasant eminence I lost my way +in a fog, and my temper shortly afterwards. Then, after crossing the +Grimsel in a severe thunderstorm, passed on to Brienz, Interlachen, and +Bern; and thence to Fribourg and Morat, Neuchatel, Martigny, and the St. +Bernard. The massive walls of the convent were a welcome sight as I waded +through the snow-beds near the summit of the pass, and pleasant also was +the courteous salutation of the brother who bade me enter. He wondered at +the weight of my knapsack, and I at the hardness of his bread. The saying +that the monks make the toast in the winter that they give to tourists in +the following season is not founded on truth; the winter is their most +busy time of the year. But it _is_ true they have exercised so much +hospitality, that at times they have not possessed the means to furnish +the fuel for heating their chapel in the winter.(7) + +Instead of descending to Aosta, I turned aside into the Val Pelline, in +order to obtain views of the Dent d'Erin. The night had come on before +Biona was gained, and I had to knock long and loud upon the door of the +cure's house before it was opened. An old woman, with querulous voice, and +with a large goitre, answered the summons, and demanded rather sharply +what was wanted; but became pacific--almost good-natured--when a five-franc +piece was held in her face, and she heard that lodging and supper were +requested in exchange. + + [Illustration: THE VILLAGE OF BIONA.] + +My directions asserted that a passage existed from Prerayen, at the head +of this valley, to Breil,(8) in the Val Tournanche, and the old woman, now +convinced of my respectability, busied herself to find a guide. Presently +she introduced a native, picturesquely attired in high-peaked hat, braided +jacket, scarlet waistcoat, and indigo pantaloons, who agreed to take me to +the village of Val Tournanche. We set off early on the next morning, and +got to the summit of the pass without difficulty. It gave me my first +experience of considerable slopes of hard steep snow, and, like all +beginners, I endeavoured to prop myself up with my stick, and kept it +_outside_, instead of holding it between myself and the slope, and leaning +upon it, as should have been done. The man enlightened me; but he had, +properly, a very small opinion of his employer, and it is probably on that +account that, a few minutes after we had passed the summit, he said he +would not go any further and would return to Biona. All argument was +useless; he stood still, and to everything that was said answered nothing +but that he would go back. Being rather nervous about descending some long +snow-slopes, which still intervened between us and the head of the valley, +I offered more pay, and he went on a little way. Presently there were some +cliffs down which we had to scramble. He called to me to stop, then +shouted that he would go back, and beckoned to me to come up. On the +contrary, I waited for him to come down; but instead of doing so, in a +second or two he turned round, clambered deliberately up the cliff, and +vanished. I supposed it was only a ruse to extort offers of more money, +and waited for half-an-hour, but he did not appear again. This was rather +embarrassing, for he carried off my knapsack. The choice of action lay +between chasing him and going on to Breil, risking the loss of my +knapsack. I chose the latter course, and got to Breil the same evening. +The landlord of the inn, suspicious of a person entirely innocent of +luggage, was doubtful if he could admit me, and eventually thrust me into +a kind of loft, which was already occupied by guides and by hay. In later +years we became good friends, and he did not hesitate to give credit and +even to advance considerable sums. + +My sketches from Breil were made under difficulties, for my materials had +been carried off. Nothing better than fine sugar-paper could be obtained, +and the pencils seemed to contain more silica than plumbago. However, they +_were_ made, and the pass(9) was again crossed, this time alone. By the +following evening the old woman of Biona again produced the faithless +guide. The knapsack was recovered after the lapse of several hours, and +then I poured forth all the terms of abuse and reproach of which I was +master. The man smiled when called a liar, and shrugged his shoulders when +referred to as a thief, but drew his knife when spoken of as a pig. + + [Illustration: CROSSING MONT CENIS.] + +The following night was spent at Courmayeur, and the day after I crossed +the Col Ferret to Orsieres, and on the next the Tete Noire to Chamounix. +The Emperor Napoleon arrived on the same day, and access to the Mer de +Glace was refused to tourists; but, by scrambling along the Plan des +Aiguilles, I managed to outwit the guards, and to arrive at the Montanvert +as the Imperial party was leaving: the same afternoon failing to get to +the Jardin, but very nearly succeeding in breaking a leg by dislodging +great rocks on the moraine of the glacier. + + [Illustration: "GARIBALDI!"] + +From Chamounix I went to Geneva, and thence by the Mont Cenis to Turin and +to the Vaudois valleys. A long and weary day had ended when Paesana was +reached. The inn was full, and I was tired, and about to go to bed, when +some village stragglers entered and began to sing. They sang to Garibaldi! +The tenor, a ragged fellow, whose clothes were not worth a shilling, took +the lead with wonderful expression and feeling. The others kept their +places, and sang in admirable time. For hours I sat enchanted; and, long +after I retired, the sound of their melody could be heard, relieved at +times by the treble of the girl who belonged to the inn. + +The next morning I passed the little lakes, which are the sources of the +Po, on my way into France. The weather was stormy, and misinterpreting the +patois of some natives--who in reality pointed out the right way--I missed +the track, and found myself under the cliffs of Monte Viso. A gap that was +occasionally seen, in the ridge connecting it with the mountains to the +east, tempted me up; and, after a battle with a snow-slope of excessive +steepness, I reached the summit. The scene was extraordinary, and, in my +experience, unique. To the north there was not a particle of mist, and the +violent wind coming from that direction blew one back staggering. But on +the side of Italy, the valleys were completely filled with dense masses of +cloud to a certain level; and there--where they felt the influence of the +wind--they were cut off as level as the top of a table, the ridges +appearing above them. + +I raced down to Abries, and went on through the gorge of the Guil to Mont +Dauphin. The next day found me at La Bessee, at the junction of the Val +Louise with the valley of the Durance, in full view of Mont Pelvoux; and +by chance I walked into a cabaret where a Frenchman was breakfasting, who, +a few days before, had made an unsuccessful attempt to ascend that +mountain with three Englishmen and the guide Michel Croz of Chamounix;(10) +a right good fellow, by name Jean Reynaud. + +The same night I slept at Briancon, intending to take the courier on the +following day to Grenoble; but all places had been secured several days +beforehand, so I set out at two P.M. on the next day for a seventy-mile +walk. The weather was again bad; and on the summit of the Col de Lautaret +I was forced to seek shelter in the wretched little hospice. It was filled +with workmen who were employed on the road, and with noxious vapours which +proceeded from them. The inclemency of the weather was preferable to the +inhospitality of the interior. Outside, it was disagreeable, but grand; +inside, it was disagreeable and mean.(11) The walk was continued under a +deluge of rain, and I felt the way down--so intense was the darkness--to the +village of La Grave, where the people of the inn detained me forcibly. It +was perhaps fortunate that they did so; for, during that night, blocks of +rock fell at several places from the cliffs on to the road with such force +that they made large pits in the macadam. I resumed the walk at half-past +five the next morning, and proceeded, under steady rain, through Bourg +d'Oysans to Grenoble, arriving at the latter place soon after seven P.M., +having accomplished the entire distance from Briancon in about eighteen +hours of actual walking. + + + +This was the end of the Alpine portion of my tour of 1860, on which I was +introduced to the great peaks, and acquired the passion for +mountain-scrambling, the development of which is described in the +following chapters. + + [Illustration: A BIT OF THE VILLAGE OF ZERMATT.] + + [Illustration: BRIANCON.] + + + + + + CHAPTER II. + + + THE ASCENT OF MONT PELVOUX. + + + "Thus fortune on our first endeavour smiles." + VIRGIL. + + +The district of which Mont Pelvoux and the neighbouring summits are the +culminating points,(12) is, both historically and topographically, one of +the most interesting in the Alps. As the nursery and the home of the +Vaudois, it has claims to permanent attention. The names of Waldo and of +Neff will be remembered when men more famous in their time will be +forgotten; and the memory of the heroic courage and the simple piety of +their disciples will endure as long as history lasts. + +This district contains the highest summits in France, and some of its +finest scenery. It has not perhaps the beauties of Switzerland, but has +charms of its own; its cliffs, its torrents, and its gorges are +unsurpassed; its deep and savage valleys present pictures of grandeur, and +even sublimity, and it is second to none in the boldness of its mountain +forms. + +The district includes a mass of valleys which vie with each other in +singularity of character and dissimilarity of climate. Some the rays of +the sun can never reach, they are so deep and narrow.(13) In others the +very antipodes may be found; the temperature more like that of the plains +of Italy than of Alpine France. This great range of climate has a marked +effect on the flora of these valleys. Sterility reigns in some; stones +take the place of trees; debris and mud replace plants and flowers: in +others, in the space of a few miles, one passes vines, apple, pear, and +cherry trees, the birch, alder, walnut, ash, larch, and pine, alternating +with fields of rye, barley, oats, beans, and potatoes. + +The valleys are for the most part short and erratic. They are not, +apparently, arranged on any definite plan. They are not disposed, as is +frequently the case elsewhere, either at right angles to, or parallel +with, the highest summits; but they wander hither and thither, take one +direction for a few miles, then double back, and then perhaps resume their +original course. Thus, long perspectives are rarely to be seen, and it is +difficult to form a general idea of the disposition of the peaks. + +The highest summits are arranged almost in a horse-shoe form. The highest +of all, which occupies a central position, is the Pointe des Ecrins; the +second in height, the Meije,(14) is on the north; and the Mont Pelvoux, +which gives its name to the entire block, stands almost detached by itself +on the outside. + +The district is still very imperfectly known; there are probably many +valleys, and there are certainly many summits which have never been +trodden by the feet of tourists or travellers; but in 1861 it was even +less known. Until quite recently there was, practically, no map of it;(15) +General Bourcet's, which was the best that was published, was completely +wrong in its delineation of the mountains, and was frequently incorrect in +regard to paths or roads. + +The mountainous regions of Dauphine, moreover, are not supplied, like +Switzerland, Tyrol, or even the Italian valleys, with accommodation for +travellers. The inns, when they exist, are often filthy beyond +description; rest is seldom obtained in their beds, or decent food found +in their kitchens, and there are no local guides worth having. The tourist +is thrown very much on his own resources, and it is not therefore +surprising that these districts are less visited and less known than the +rest of the Alps. + +Most of the statements current in 1861 respecting these mountains had been +derived from two authors(16)--M. Elie de Beaumont and the late Principal J. +D. Forbes. Their works, however, contained numerous errors in regard to +the identification of the peaks, and, amongst others, they referred the +supremacy to the Mont Pelvoux, the highest point of which they termed the +Pointe des Arcines, or des Ecrins. Principal Forbes erroneously identified +the high peak seen from the valley of St. Christophe, with that seen from +the valley of the Durance, and spoke of both as the Mont Pelvoux, and M. +de Beaumont committed similar mistakes. In point of fact, at the time when +M. de Beaumont and Forbes wrote their respective memoirs, the proper +relation of the Mont Pelvoux to the neighbouring summits had been +determined by the engineers employed on the survey for the map of France, +but their observations were not then accessible to the public, although +they had evidently been seen by M. de Beaumont. This party of surveyors, +led by Captain Durand, made the ascent of Mont Pelvoux from the side of +the Val d'Ailefroide--that is, from the direction of Val Louise--in 1828. +According to the natives of the Val Louise, they got to the top of the +second peak in height, and remained upon it, lodged in a tent for several +days, at a height of 12,904 feet. They took numerous porters to carry wood +for fires, and erected a large cairn on the summit, which has caused the +name of Pic de la Pyramide to be given to their summit. + +In 1848, M. Puiseux made the ascent from the same direction, but his Val +Louisan guide stopped short of the summit, and allowed this courageous +astronomer to proceed by himself.(17) + +In the middle of August 1860, Messrs. Bonney, Hawkshaw, and Mathews, with +Michel Croz of Chamounix, tried to ascend the Pelvoux, likewise from the +same direction. These gentlemen spent several days and nights upon the +mountain; and, encountering bad weather, only attained a height of 10,430 +feet. + +M. Jean Reynaud, of whom mention has been made in the preceding chapter, +accompanied the party of Mr. Mathews, and he was of opinion that the +attempt had been made too late in the season. He said that the weather was +usually good enough for high mountain ascents _only_ during the last few +days of July, and the first ones of August,(18) and suggested that we +should attempt to ascend the mountain in the following year at that time. +The proposition was a tempting one, and Reynaud's cordial and modest +manner made it irresistible, although there seemed small chance that we +should succeed where a party such as that of Mr. Mathews had been beaten. + +At the beginning of July 1861, I despatched to Reynaud from Havre, +blankets (which were taxed as "prohibited fabrics"), rope, and other +things desirable for the excursion, and set out on the tour of France; +but, four weeks later, at Nimes, found myself completely collapsed by the +heat, then 94 deg. Faht. in the shade, and took a night train at once to +Grenoble. + +Grenoble is a town upon which a volume might be written. Its situation is +probably the finest of any in France, and the views from its high forts +are superb. I lost my way in the streets of this picturesque and noisome +town, and having but a half-hour left in which to get a dinner and take a +place in the diligence, was not well pleased to hear that an Englishman +wished to see me. It turned out to be my friend Macdonald, who confided to +me that he was going to try to ascend a mountain called Pelvoux in the +course of ten days. On hearing of my intentions, he agreed to join us at +La Bessee on the 3rd of August. In a few moments more I was perched in the +banquette _en route_ for Bourg d'Oysans, in a miserable vehicle which took +nearly eight hours to accomplish less than 30 miles. + +At five on a lovely morning I shouldered my knapsack and started for +Briancon. Gauzy mists clung to the mountains, but melted away when touched +by the sun, and disappeared by jerks (in the manner of views when focussed +in a magic lantern), revealing the wonderfully bent and folded strata in +the limestone cliffs behind the town. Then I entered the Combe de Malval, +and heard the Romanche eating its way through that wonderful gorge, and +passed on to Le Dauphin, where the first glacier came into view, tailing +over the mountain-side on the right. From this place until the summit of +the Col de Lautaret was passed, every gap in the mountains showed a +glittering glacier or a soaring peak; the finest view was at La Grave, +where the Meije rises by a series of tremendous precipices 8000 feet above +the road.(19) The finest distant view of the pass is seen after crossing +the Col, near Monetier. A mountain, commonly supposed to be Monte Viso, +appears at the end of the vista, shooting into the sky;(20) in the middle +distance, but still ten miles off, is Briancon with its interminable +forts, and in the foreground, leading down to the Guisane, and rising high +up the neighbouring slopes, are fertile fields, studded with villages and +church spires. The next day I walked over from Briancon to La Bessee, to +my worthy friend Jean Reynaud, the surveyor of roads of his district. + +All the peaks of Mont Pelvoux are well seen from La Bessee--the highest +point, as well as that upon which the engineers erected their cairn. +Neither Reynaud nor any one else knew this. The natives knew only that the +engineers had ascended one peak, and had seen from that one a still higher +point, which they called the Pointe des Arcines or des Ecrins. They could +not say whether this latter could be seen from La Bessee, nor could they +tell the peak upon which the cairn had been erected. We were under the +impression that the highest point was concealed by the peaks which we saw, +and would be gained by passing over them. They knew nothing of the ascent +of Monsieur Puiseux, and they confidently asserted that the highest point +of Mont Pelvoux had not been attained by any one. It was this point we +wished to reach. + + [Illustration: MONT PELVOUX FROM ABOVE LA BESSEE.] + +Nothing prevented our starting at once but the absence of Macdonald and +the want of a baton. Reynaud suggested a visit to the postmaster, who +possessed a baton of local celebrity. Down we went to the bureau; but it +was closed: we halloed through the slits, but no answer. At last the +postmaster was discovered endeavouring (with very fair success) to make +himself intoxicated. He was just able to ejaculate, "France! 'tis the +first nation in the world!" which is a phrase used by a Frenchman at times +when a Briton would begin to shout, "We won't go home till +morning"--national glory being uppermost in the thoughts of one, and home +in those of the other. The baton was produced; it was a branch of a young +oak, about five feet long, gnarled and twisted in several directions. +"Sir," said the postmaster, as he presented it, "France! 'tis the +first--the first nation in the world, by its"--he stuck. "Batons?" I +suggested. "Yes, yes, sir; by its batons, by its--its," and here he could +not get on at all. As I looked at this young limb, I thought of my own; +but Reynaud, who knew everything about everybody in the village, said +there was not a better one, so off we went with it, leaving the official +staggering in the road and muttering, "France! 'tis the first nation in +the world!" + +The 3rd of August came, and Macdonald did not appear, so we started for +the Val Louise; our party consisting of Reynaud, myself, and a porter, +Jean Casimir Giraud, nicknamed "little nails," the shoemaker of the place. +An hour and a half's smart walking took us to La Ville de Val Louise, our +hearts gladdened by the glorious peaks of Pelvoux shining out without a +cloud around them. I renewed acquaintance with the mayor of "La Ville." +His aspect was original, and his manners were gracious, but the odour +which proceeded from him was dreadful. + +Reynaud kindly undertook to look after the commissariat, and I found to my +annoyance, when we were about to leave, that I had given tacit consent to +a small wine-cask being carried with us, which was a great nuisance from +the commencement. It was excessively awkward to handle; one man tried to +carry it, and then another, and at last it was slung from one of our +batons, and was carried by two of us, which gave our party the appearance +of a mechanical diagram to illustrate the uses of levers. + +At "La Ville" the Val Louise splits into two branches--the Val d'Entraigues +on the left and the Vallon d'Alefred (or Ailefroide) on the right; our +route was up the latter, and we moved steadily forwards to the village of +La Pisse, where Pierre Semiond lived, who was reputed to know more about +the Pelvoux than any other man. He looked an honest fellow, but +unfortunately he was ill and could not come. He recommended his brother, +an aged creature, whose furrowed and wrinkled face hardly seemed to +announce the man we wanted; but having no choice, we engaged him and again +set forth. Walnut and a great variety of other trees gave shadow to our +path and fresh vigour to our limbs; while below, in a sublime gorge, +thundered the torrent, whose waters took their rise from the snows we +hoped to tread on the morrow. + + [Illustration: THE GRAND PELVOUX DE VAL LOUISE.] + +The Pelvoux could not be seen at La Ville, owing to a high intervening +ridge; we were now moving along the foot of this to get to the chalets of +Alefred, or, as they are sometimes called, Alefroide, where the mountain +actually commences. From these chalets the subordinate, but more +proximate, peaks appear considerably higher than the loftier ones behind, +and sometimes completely conceal them. But the whole height of the peak, +which in these valleys goes under the name of the "Grand Pelvoux," is seen +at one glance from its summit to its base, six or seven thousand feet of +nearly perpendicular cliffs. + +The chalets of Alefred are a cluster of miserable wooden huts at the foot +of the Grand Pelvoux, and are close to the junction of the streams which +descend from the glacier de Sapeniere (or du Sele) on the left, and the +glaciers Blanc and Noir on the right. We rested a minute to purchase some +butter and milk, and Semiond picked up a disreputable-looking lad to +assist in carrying, pushing, and otherwise moving the wine-cask. + +Our route now turned sharply to the left, and all were glad that the day +was drawing to a close, so that we had the shadows from the mountains. A +more frightful and desolate valley it is scarcely possible to imagine; it +contains miles of boulders, debris, stones, sand, and mud; few trees, and +they placed so high as to be almost out of sight; not a soul inhabits it; +no birds are in the air, no fish in its waters; the mountain is too steep +for the chamois, its slopes too inhospitable for the marmot, the whole too +repulsive for the eagle. Not a living thing did we see in this sterile and +savage valley during four days, except some few poor goats which had been +driven there against their will. + +It was a scene in keeping with the diabolical deed perpetrated here about +four hundred years ago--the murder of the Vaudois of Val Louise, in the +cavern which was now in sight, though high above us. Their story is very +sad. Peaceful and industrious, for more than three centuries they had +inhabited these retired valleys in tranquil obscurity. The Archbishops of +Embrun endeavoured, though with little success, to get them within the +pale of their church. Their efforts were aided by others, who commenced by +imprisonments and torture,(21) and at last adopted the method of burning +them by hundreds at the stake.(22) + +In the year 1488, Albert Cattanee, Archdeacon of Cremona and legate of +Pope Innocent VIII., would have anticipated the barbarities which at a +later date roused the indignation of Milton and the fears of Cromwell;(23) +but, driven everywhere back by the Waldenses of Piedmont, he left their +valleys and crossed the Mont Genevre to attack the weaker and more thinly +populated valleys of the Vaudois in Dauphine. At the head of an army which +is said to have been composed of vagabonds, robbers, and assassins (who +had been tempted to his banner by promises of absolution beforehand, of +being set free from the obligation of vows which they might have made, and +by the confirmation of property to them which they might have wrongfully +acquired), as well as regular troops, Cattanee poured down the valley of +the Durance. The inhabitants of the Val Louise fled before a host that was +ten times their number, and took up their abode in this cavern, where they +had collected provisions sufficient for two years. But intolerance is ever +painstaking; their retreat was discovered. Cattanee had a captain who +combined the resources of a Herod to the cruelty of a Pelissier, and, +lowering his men by ropes, fired piles of brushwood at the entrance to the +cavern, suffocated the majority, and slew the remainder. The Vaudois were +relentlessly exterminated, without distinction of age or sex. More than +three thousand persons, it is said, perished in this frightful massacre; +the growth of three hundred and fifty years was destroyed at one blow, and +the valley was completely depopulated. Louis XII. caused it to be +re-peopled, and, after another three centuries and a half, behold the +result--a race of monkeys.(24) + +We rested a little at a small spring, and then hastened onwards till we +nearly arrived at the foot of the Sapeniere glacier, when Semiond said we +must turn to the right, up the slopes. This we did, and clambered for +half-an-hour through scattered firs and fallen boulders. Then evening +began to close in rapidly, and it was time to look for a resting-place. +There was no difficulty in getting one, for all around there was a chaotic +assemblage of rocks. We selected the under side of a boulder which was +more than fifty feet long by twenty high, cleared out the rubbish, and +then collected wood for a fire. + +I have a pleasant recollection of that camp-fire. The wine-cask had got +through all its troubles; it was tapped, and the Frenchmen seemed to +derive some consolation from its execrable contents. Reynaud chanted +scraps of French songs, and each contributed his share of joke, story, or +verse. The weather was perfect, and our prospects for the morrow were +good. My companions' joy culminated when a packet of red fir was thrown +into the flames. It hissed and bubbled for a moment or two, and then broke +out into a grand flare. The effect of the momentary light was magnificent; +the mountains all around were illuminated for a second, and then relapsed +into their solemn gloom. One by one our party dropped off to sleep, and at +last I got into my blanket-bag. It was hardly necessary, for although we +were at a height of at least 7000 feet, the minimum temperature was above +40 deg. Fahrenheit. + +We roused at three, and made a start at half-past four. Giraud had been +engaged as far as this rock only, but as he wished to go on, we allowed +him to accompany us. We mounted the slopes and quickly got above the +trees, then had a couple of hours' clambering over bits of precipitous +rock and banks of debris, and, at a quarter to seven, got to a narrow +glacier--Clos de l'Homme--which streamed out of the plateau on the summit, +and nearly reached the glacier de Sapeniere. We worked as much as possible +to the right, in hopes that we should not have to cross it, but were +continually driven back, and at last we found that over we must go. Old +Semiond had a strong objection to the ice, and made explorations on his +own account to endeavour to avoid it; but Reynaud and I preferred to cross +it, and Giraud stuck to us. It was narrow--in fact, one could throw a stone +across--and it was easily mounted on the side; but in the centre swelled +into a steep dome, up which we were obliged to cut. Giraud stepped forward +and said he should like to try his hand, and having got hold of the axe, +would not give it up; and here, as well as afterwards when it was +necessary to cross the gullies filled with hard snow, which abound on the +higher part of the mountain, he did all the work, and did it admirably. + +Old Semiond of course came after us when we got across. We then zigzagged +up some snow-slopes, and shortly afterwards commenced to ascend the +interminable array of buttresses which are the great peculiarity of the +Pelvoux.(25) They were very steep in many places, yet on the whole +afforded good hold, and no climbing should be called difficult which does +that. Gullies abounded among them, sometimes of great length and depth. +_They_ were frequently rotten, and would have been difficult for a single +man to pass. The uppermost men were continually abused for dislodging +rocks and for harpooning those below with their batons. However, without +these incidents the climbing would have been dull--they helped to break the +monotony. + +We went up chimneys and gullies by the hour together, and always seemed to +be coming to something, although we never got to it. The outline sketch +will help to explain the situation. We stood at the foot of a great +buttress--perhaps about 200 feet high--and looked up. It did not go to a +point as in the diagram, because we could not see the top; although we +felt convinced that behind the fringe of pinnacles we did see there was a +top, and that _it_ was the edge of the plateau we so much desired to +attain. Up we mounted, and reached the pinnacles; but, lo! another set was +seen,--and another,--and yet more--till at last we reached the top, and found +it was only a buttress, and that we must descend 40 or 50 feet before we +could commence to mount again. When this operation had been performed a +few dozen times, it began to be wearisome, especially as we were in the +dark as to our whereabouts. Semiond, however, encouraged us, and said he +knew we were on the right route,--so away we went once more. + + [Illustration: BUTTRESSES OF MONT PELVOUX.] + +It was now nearly mid-day, and we seemed no nearer the summit of the +Pelvoux than when we started. At last we all joined together and held a +council. "Semiond, old friend, do you know where we are now?" "Oh yes, +perfectly, to a yard and a half." "Well, then, how much are we below this +plateau?" He affirmed we were not half-an-hour from the edge of the snow. +"Very good; let us proceed." Half-an-hour passed, and then another, but we +were still in the same state,--pinnacles, buttresses, and gullies were in +profusion, but the plateau was not in sight. So we called him again--for he +had been staring about latterly, as if in doubt--and repeated the question. +"How far below are we now?" Well, he thought it might be half-an-hour +more. "But you said that just now; are you sure we are going right?" Yes, +he believed we were. Believed! that would not do. "Are you sure we are +going right for the Pic des Arcines?" "Pic des Arcines!" he ejaculated in +astonishment, as if he had heard the words for the first time. "Pic des +Arcines; no! but for the pyramid, the celebrated pyramid he had helped the +great Capitaine Durand," &c. + +Here was a fix;--we had been talking about it to him for a whole day, and +now he confessed he knew nothing about it. I turned to Reynaud, who seemed +thunderstruck. "What did he suggest?" He shrugged his shoulders. "Well," +we said, after explaining our minds pretty freely to Semiond, "the sooner +we turn back the better, for we have no wish to see your pyramid." + +We halted for an hour, and then commenced the descent. It took us nearly +seven hours to come down to our rock; but I paid no heed to the distance, +and do not remember anything about it. When we got down we made a +discovery which affected us as much as the footprint in the sand did +Robinson Crusoe: a blue silk veil lay by our fireside. There was but one +explanation,--Macdonald had arrived; but where was he? We soon packed our +baggage, and tramped in the dusk, through the stony desert, to Alefred, +where we arrived about half-past nine. "Where is the Englishman?" was the +first question. He was gone to sleep at La Ville. + +We passed that night in a hay-loft, and in the morning, after settling +with Semiond, posted down to catch Macdonald. We had already determined on +the plan of operation, which was to get him to join us, return, and be +independent of all guides, simply taking the best man we could get as a +porter. I set my heart on Giraud,--a good fellow, with no pretence, +although in every respect up to the work. We were disappointed; he was +obliged to go to Briancon. + +The walk soon became exciting. The natives inquired the result of our +expedition, and common civility obliged us to stop. But I was afraid of +losing my man, for it was said he would wait only till ten o'clock, and +that time was near at hand. At last I dashed over the bridge,--time from +Alefred an hour and a quarter. A cantonnier stopped me, saying that the +Englishman had just started for La Bessee. I rushed after him, turned +angle after angle of the road, but could not see him; at last, as I came +round a corner, he was also just turning another, going very fast. I +shouted, and luckily he heard me. We returned, reprovisioned ourselves at +La Ville, and the same evening saw us passing our first rock, _en route_ +for another. I have said we determined to take no guide; but, on passing +La Pisse, old Semiond turned out and offered his services. He went well, +in spite of his years and disregard of truth. "Why not take him?" said my +friend. So we offered him a fifth of his previous pay, and in a few +seconds he closed with the offer. This time he came in an inferior +position,--we were to lead, he to follow. Our second follower was a youth +of twenty-seven years, who was not all that could be desired. He drank +Reynaud's wine, smoked our cigars, and quietly secreted the provisions +when we were nearly starving. Discovery of his proceedings did not at all +disconcert him, and he finished up by getting several items added to our +bill at La Ville, which, not a little to his disgust, we disallowed. + +This night we fixed our camp high above the tree-line, and indulged +ourselves in the healthy employment of carrying our fuel up to it. The +present rock was not so comfortable as the first, and, before we could +settle down, we were obliged to turn out a large mass which was in the +way. It was very obstinate, but moved at length; slowly and gently at +first, then faster and faster, at last taking great jumps in the air, +striking a stream of fire at every touch, which shone out brightly as it +entered the gloomy valley below, and long after it was out of sight, we +heard it bounding downwards, and then settle with a subdued crash on the +glacier beneath. As we turned back from this curious sight, Reynaud asked +if we had ever seen a torrent on fire, and told us that in the spring the +Durance, swollen by the melting of the snow, sometimes brings down so many +rocks that, where it passes through a narrow gorge at La Bessee, no water +whatever is seen, but only boulders rolling over and over, grinding each +other into powder, and striking so many sparks that the stream looks as if +it were on fire. + +We had another merry evening with nothing to mar it; the weather was +perfect, and we lay backward in luxurious repose, looking at the sky +spangled with its ten thousand brilliant lights. + + ... "The ranges stood + Transfigured in the silver flood, + Their snows were flashing cold and keen, + Dead white, save where some sharp ravine + Took shadow, or the sombre green + Of hemlocks turned to pitchy black, + Against the whiteness at their back."(26) + + [Illustration: Portrait of the late R. J. S. Macdonald] + +Macdonald related his experiences over the cafe noir. He had travelled day +and night for several days in order to join us, but had failed to find our +first bivouac, and had camped a few hundred yards from us under another +rock, higher up the mountain. The next morning he discerned us going along +a ridge at a great height above him, and as it was useless to endeavour to +overtake us, he lay down and watched with a heavy heart until we had +turned the corner of a buttress, and vanished out of sight. + +Nothing but the heavy breathing of our already sound asleep comrades broke +the solemn stillness of the night. It was a silence to be felt. Nothing? +Hark! what is that dull booming sound above us? Is that nothing? There it +is again, plainer--on it comes, nearer, clearer; 'tis a crag escaped from +the heights above! What a fearful crash! We jump to our feet. Down it +comes with awful fury; what power can withstand its violence? Dancing, +leaping, flying; dashing against others; roaring as it descends. Ah, it +has passed! No; there it is again, and we hold our breath, as, with +resistless force and explosions like artillery, it darts past, with an +avalanche of shattered fragments trailing in its rear! 'Tis gone, and we +breathe more freely as we hear the finale on the glacier below.(27) + +We retired at last, but I was too excited to sleep. At a quarter-past four +every man once more shouldered his pack and started. This time we agreed +to keep more to the right, to see if it were not possible to get to the +plateau without losing any time by crossing the glacier. To describe our +route would be to repeat what has been said before. We mounted steadily +for an hour and a half, sometimes walking, though more frequently +climbing, and then found, after all, that it was necessary to cross the +glacier. The part on which we struck came down a very steep slope, and was +much crevassed. The word crevassed hardly expresses its appearance--it was +a mass of formidable seracs. We found, however, more difficulty in getting +on than across it; and, thanks to the rope, it was passed in safety. Then +the interminable buttresses began again. Hour after hour we proceeded +upwards, frequently at fault, and obliged to descend. The ridge behind us +had sunk long ago, and we looked over it, and all others, till our eyes +rested on the majestic Viso. Hour after hour passed, and monotony was the +order of the day. When twelve o'clock came we lunched, and contemplated +the scene with satisfaction; all the summits in sight, with the single +exception of the Viso, had given in, and we looked over an immense +expanse--a perfect sea of peaks and snow-fields. Still the pinnacles rose +above us, and opinions were freely uttered that we should see no summit of +Pelvoux that day. Old Semiond had become a perfect bore to all; whenever +one rested for a moment to look about, he would say, with a complacent +chuckle, "Don't be afraid, follow me." We came at last to a very bad +piece, rotten and steep, and no hold. Here Reynaud and Macdonald confessed +to being tired, and talked of going to sleep. A way was discovered out of +the difficulty; then some one called out, "Look at the Viso!" and we saw +that we almost looked over it. We worked away with redoubled energy, and +at length caught sight of the head of the glacier as it streamed out of +the plateau. This gave us fresh hopes; we were not deceived; and with a +simultaneous shout we greeted the appearance of our long-wished-for snows. +A large crevasse separated us from them; but a bridge was found; we tied +ourselves in line, and moved safely over it. Directly we got across, there +rose before us a fine snow-capped peak. Old Semiond cried, "The pyramid! I +see the pyramid!" "Where, Semiond, where?" "There; on the top of that +peak." + + [Illustration: Outline to show route up Mont Pelvoux] + +There, sure enough, was the cairn he had helped to erect more than thirty +years before. Where was the Pic des Arcines which we were to see? It was +nowhere visible--there was only a great expanse of snow, bordered by three +lower peaks. Somewhat sadly we moved towards the pyramid, sighing that +there was no other to conquer; but hardly had we gone two hundred paces, +before there rose a superb white cone on the left, which had been hidden +before by a slope of snow. We shouted, "The Pic des Arcines!" and inquired +of Semiond if he knew whether that peak had been ascended. As for him, he +knew nothing, except that the peak before us was called the pyramid, from +the cairn he had, etc. etc., and that it had not been ascended since. "All +right then--face about," and we immediately turned at right angles for the +cone, the porter making faint struggles for his beloved pyramid. Our +progress was stopped, in the sixth of a mile, by the edge of the ridge +connecting the two peaks, and we perceived that it curled over in a lovely +volute. We involuntarily retreated. Semiond, who was last in the line, +took the opportunity to untie himself, and refused to come on; said we +were running dangerous risks, and talked vaguely of crevasses. We tied him +up again, and proceeded. The snow was very soft; we were always knee-deep, +and sometimes floundered in up to the waist; but a simultaneous jerk +before and behind always released one. By this time we had arrived at the +foot of the final peak. The left-hand ridge seemed easier than that upon +which we stood, so we curved round to get to it. Some rocks peeped out 150 +feet below the summit, and up these we crawled, leaving our porter behind, +as he said he was afraid. I could not resist the temptation, as we went +off, to turn round and beckon him onwards, saying, "Don't be afraid--follow +me," but he did not answer to the appeal, and never went to the top. The +rocks led to a short ridge of ice--our plateau on one side, and a nearly +vertical precipice on the other. Macdonald cut up it, and at a quarter to +two we stood shaking hands on the loftiest summit of the conquered +Pelvoux. + +The day still continued everything that could be desired, and, far and +near, countless peaks burst into sight, without a cloud to hide them. The +mighty Mont Blanc, full seventy miles away, first caught our eyes, and +then, still farther off, the Monte Rosa group; while, rolling away to the +east, one unknown range after another succeeded in unveiled splendour; +fainter and fainter in tone, but still perfectly defined, till at last the +eye was unable to distinguish sky from mountain, and they died away in the +far-off horizon. Monte Viso rose up grandly, but it was less than forty +miles away, and we looked over it to a hazy mass we knew must be the +plains of Piedmont. Southwards a blue mist seemed to indicate the +existence of the distant Mediterranean; to the west we looked over to the +mountains of Auvergne. Such was the panorama; a view extending in nearly +every direction for more than one hundred miles. It was with some +difficulty we wrenched our eyes from the more distant objects to +contemplate the nearer ones. Mont Dauphin was very conspicuous, but La +Bessee was not readily perceived. Besides these places not a habitation +could be seen; all was rock, snow, or ice; and, large as we knew were the +snow-fields of Dauphine, we were surprised to find that they very far +surpassed our most ardent imagination. Nearly in a line between us and the +Viso, immediately to the south of Chateau Queyras, was a splendid group of +mountains of great height. More to the south an unknown peak seemed still +higher; while close to us we were astonished to discover that there was a +mountain which appeared even higher than that on which we stood. At least +this was my opinion; Macdonald thought that it was not so high, and +Reynaud that it was much about the same elevation as our own peak. + +This mountain was distant a couple of miles or so, and was separated from +us by a tremendous abyss, the bottom of which we could not see. On the +other side rose this mighty wall-sided peak, too steep for snow, black as +night, with sharp ridges and pointed summit. We were in complete ignorance +of its whereabouts, for none of us had been on the other side. We imagined +that La Berarde was in the abyss at our feet, although it was in reality +beyond the other mountain.(28) + +We left the summit at last, and descended to the rocks and to our porter, +where I boiled some water, obtained by melting snow. After we had fed, and +smoked our cigars (lighted without difficulty from a common match), we +found it was ten minutes past three, and high time to be off. We dashed, +waded, and tumbled for twenty-five minutes through the snow, and then +began the long descent of the rocks. It was nearly four o'clock, and, as +it would be dark at eight, it was evident that there was no time to be +lost, and we pushed on to the utmost. Nothing remarkable occurred going +down. We kept rather closer to the glacier, and crossed at the same point +as in the morning. Getting _off_ it was like getting _on_ it--rather +awkward. Old Semiond had got over--so had Reynaud; Macdonald came next, +but, as he made a long stretch to get on to a higher mass, he slipped, and +would have been in the bowels of a crevasse in a moment had he not been +tied. + +It was nearly dark by the time we had crossed, yet I still hoped that we +should be able to pass the night at our rock. Macdonald was not so +sanguine, and he was right; for at last we found ourselves quite at fault, +and wandered helplessly up and down for an hour, while Reynaud and the +porter indulged in a little mutual abuse. The dreary fact, that, as we +could not get down, we must stay where we were, was now quite apparent. + +We were at least 10,500 feet high, and if it commenced to rain or snow, as +the gathering clouds and rising wind seemed to threaten, we might be in a +sore plight. We were hungry, having eaten little since 3 A.M., and a +torrent we heard close at hand, but could not discover, aggravated our +thirst. Semiond endeavoured to get some water from it. Although he +succeeded in doing so, he was wholly unable to return, and we had to +solace him by shouting at intervals through the night. + +A more detestable locality for a night out of doors it is difficult to +imagine. There was not shelter of any kind; it was perfectly exposed to +the chilly wind which began to rise, and it was too steep to promenade. +Loose rubbly stones covered the ground, and had to be removed before we +could sit with any comfort. This was an advantage, although we hardly +thought so at the time, as it gave us some employment, and, after an +hour's active exercise of that interesting kind, I obtained a small strip +about nine feet long, on which it was possible to walk. Reynaud was +furious at first, and soundly abused the porter, whose opinion as to the +route down had been followed rather than that of our friend, and at last +settled down to a deep dramatic despair, and wrung his hands with frantic +gesture, as he exclaimed, "Oh, malheur, malheur! Oh miserables!" + +Thunder commenced to growl, and lightning to play among the peaks above, +and the wind, which had brought the temperature down to nearly +freezing-point, began to chill us to the bones. We examined our resources. +They were six and a half cigars, two boxes of vesuvians, one-third of a +pint of brandy-and-water, and half-a-pint of spirits of wine: rather scant +fare for three fellows who had to get through seven hours before daylight. +The spirit-lamp was lighted, and the remaining spirits of wine, the brandy +and some snow, were heated by it. It was a strong liquor, and we wished +for more of it. When it was consumed, Macdonald endeavoured to dry his +socks by the lamp, and then the three lay down under my plaid to pretend +to sleep. Reynaud's woes were aggravated by toothache; Macdonald somehow +managed to close his eyes. + +The longest night must end, and ours did at last. We got down to our rock +in an hour and a quarter, and found the lad not a little surprised at our +absence. He said he had made a gigantic fire to light us down, and shouted +with all his might; we neither saw the fire nor heard his shouts. He said +we looked a ghastly crew, and no wonder; it was our fourth night out. + +We feasted at our cave, and performed some very necessary ablutions. The +persons of the natives are infested by certain agile creatures--rapid of +motion, numerous, and voracious. It is dangerous to approach too near, and +one has to study the wind, so as to get on their weather-side. In spite of +all such precautions my unfortunate companion and myself were being +rapidly devoured alive. We only expected a temporary lull of our tortures, +for the interiors of the inns are like the exteriors of the natives, +swarming with this species of animated creation. + +It is said that once, when these tormentors were filled with an unanimous +desire, an unsuspecting traveller was dragged bodily from his bed! This +needs confirmation. One word more, and I have done with this vile subject. +We returned from our ablutions, and found the Frenchmen engaged in +conversation. "Ah!" said old Semiond, "as to fleas, I don't pretend to be +different to anyone else,--_I have them_." This time he certainly spoke the +truth. + +We got down to La Ville in good time, and luxuriated there for several +days; played many games of bowls with the natives, and were invariably +beaten by them. At last it was necessary to part, and I walked to Abries, +by way of Mont Dauphin and the gorge of the Guil towards Monte Viso, while +Macdonald went to Briancon. + + + +I have not attempted to conceal that the ascent of Mont Pelvoux is of a +rather monotonous character; the view from its summit can, however, be +confidently recommended. A glance at a map will show that, with the single +exception of the Viso, whose position is unrivalled, it is better situated +than any other mountain of considerable height for viewing the whole of +the Western Alps. + +Our discovery that the peak which is to be called the Pointe des Ecrins +was a separate and distinct mountain from Mont Pelvoux--and not its highest +point--gave us satisfaction, although it was also rather of the nature of a +disappointment. + +On our return to La Bessee we wrongly identified it with the peak which is +seen from thence to the left of the Pelvoux. The two mountains bear a +considerable resemblance to each other, so the mistake is not, perhaps, +unpardonable. Although the latter mountain is one that is considerably +higher than the Wetterhorn or Monte Viso, it has no name; we called it the +Pic Sans Nom. + +It has been observed by others that it is improbable the French surveyors +should have remained for several days upon the Pic de la Pyramide without +visiting the other and loftier summit. If they did, it is strange that +they did not leave some memorial of their visit. The natives who +accompanied them asserted that they did not pass from one to the other; we +therefore claimed to have made the ascent of the loftiest point for the +first time. The claim, however, cannot be sustained, on account of the +ascent of M. Puiseux. It is a matter of little moment; the excursion had +for us all the interest of a first ascent; and I look back upon this, my +first serious mountain scramble, with more satisfaction, and with as much +pleasure as upon any that is recorded in this volume. + + + +A few days later, I left Abries to seek a quiet bundle of hay at Le +Chalp--a village some miles nearer to the Viso. On approaching the place, +the odour of sanctity became distinctly perceptible; and on turning a +corner the cause was manifested--there was the priest of the place, +surrounded by some of his flock. I advanced humbly, hat in hand, but +almost before a word could be said, he broke out with, "Who are you?" +"What are you?" "What do you want?" I endeavoured to explain. "You are a +deserter; I know you are a deserter; go away, you can't stay here; go to +Le Monta, down there; I won't have you here," and he literally drove me +away. The explanation of his strange behaviour was, that Piedmontese +soldiers who were tired of the service had not unfrequently crossed the +Col de la Traversette into the valley, and trouble had arisen from +harbouring them. However, I did not know this at the time, and was not a +little indignant that I, who was marching to the attack, should be taken +for a deserter. + +So I walked away, and shortly afterwards, as it was getting dark, encamped +in a lovely hole--a cavity or kind of basin in the earth, with a stream on +one side, a rock to windward, and some broken fir branches close at hand. +Nothing could be more perfect: rock, hole, wood, and water. After making a +roaring fire, I nestled in my blanket bag (an ordinary blanket sewn up +double round the legs, with a piece of elastic riband round the open end), +and slept, but not for long. I was troubled with dreams of the +Inquisition; the tortures were being applied--priests were forcing fleas +down my nostrils and into my eyes--and with red-hot pincers were taking out +bits of flesh, and then cutting off my ears and tickling the soles of my +feet. This was too much; I yelled a great yell and awoke, to find myself +covered with innumerable crawling bodies. They were ants; I had camped by +an ant-hill, and, after making its inhabitants mad with the fire, had +coolly lain down in their midst. + + [Illustration: THE BLANKET BAG.] + +The night was fine, and as I settled down in more comfortable quarters, a +brilliant meteor sailed across full 60 deg. of the cloudless sky, leaving a +trail of light behind which lasted for several seconds. It was the herald +of a splendid spectacle. Stars fell by hundreds; and not dimmed by +intervening vapours, they sparkled with greater brightness than Sirius in +our damp climate. + +The next morning, after walking up the valley to examine the Viso, I +returned to Abries, and engaged a man from a neighbouring hamlet, an +inveterate smoker, and thirsty in proportion, whose pipe never left his +mouth except to allow him to drink. We returned up the valley together, +and slept in a hut of a shepherd, whose yearly wage was almost as small as +that of the herdsman spoken of in Hyperion by Longfellow; and the next +morning, in his company, proceeded to the summit of the pass which I had +crossed in 1860. We were baffled in our attempt to get closer to the +mountain. A deep notch(29) with precipitous cliffs cut us off from it. The +snow-slope, too, which existed in the preceding year on the Piedmontese +side of the pass, was now wanting, and we were unable to descend the rocks +which lay beneath. A fortnight afterwards the mountain was ascended for +the first time by Messrs. Mathews and Jacomb, with the two Croz's of +Chamounix. Their attempt was made from the _southern_ side, and the +ascent, which was formerly considered a thing totally impossible, has +become one of the most common and favourite excursions of the district. + +The night of the 14th of August found me at St. Veran, a village made +famous by Neff, but in no other respect remarkable, saving that it is one +of the highest in Europe. The poor inn gave the impression of great +poverty. There was no meat, no bread, no butter or cheese; almost the only +things that could be obtained were eggs. The manners of the natives were +primitive. The woman of the inn, without the least sense of impropriety, +stayed in the room until I was fairly in bed, and her bill for supper, +bed, and breakfast, amounted to one and sevenpence. + + [Illustration: NATURAL PILLAR NEAR MOLINES.] + +In this neighbourhood, and indeed all round about the Viso, the chamois +still remain in considerable numbers. They said at St. Veran that six had +been seen from the village on the day I was there, and the innkeeper +declared that he had seen fifty together in the previous week! I myself +saw in this and in the previous season several small companies round about +the Viso. It is perhaps as favourable a district as any in the Alps for a +sportsman who wishes to hunt the chamois, as the ground over which they +wander is by no means of excessive difficulty. + +The next day I descended the valley to Ville Vieille, and passed near the +village of Molines, but on the opposite side of the valley, a remarkable +natural pillar, in form not unlike a champagne bottle, about sixty feet +high, which had been produced by the action of the weather, and, in all +probability, chiefly by rain. These natural pillars are among the most +remarkable examples of the potent effects produced by the long-continued +action of quiet-working forces. They are found in several other places in +the Alps, as well as elsewhere. + +The village of Ville Vieille boasts of an inn with the sign of the +Elephant; which, in the opinion of local amateurs, is a proof that +Hannibal passed through the gorge of the Guil. I remember the place, +because its bread, being only a month old, was unusually soft, and, for +the first time during ten days, it was possible to eat some, without first +of all chopping it into small pieces and soaking it in hot water, which +produced a slimy paste on the outside, but left a hard untouched kernel. + +The same day I crossed the Col Isoard to Briancon. It was the 15th of +August, and all the world was _en fete_; sounds of revelry proceeded from +the houses of Servieres as I passed over the bridge upon which the pyrrhic +dance is annually performed,(30) and natives in all degrees of inebriation +staggered about the paths. It was late before the lights of the great +fortress came into sight; but unchallenged I passed through the gates, and +once more sought shelter under the roof of the Hotel de l'Ours. + + + + + + CHAPTER III. + + + MY FIRST SCRAMBLE ON THE MATTERHORN. + + + "What power must have been required to shatter and to sweep away + the missing parts of this pyramid; for we do not see it + surrounded by heaps of fragments; one only sees other + peaks--themselves rooted to the ground--whose sides, equally rent, + indicate an immense mass of debris, of which we do not see any + trace in the neighbourhood. Doubtless this is that debris which, + in the form of pebbles, boulders, and sand, covers our valleys + and our plains." + DE SAUSSURE. + + +Two summits amongst those in the Alps which yet remained virgin had +especially excited my admiration. One of these had been attacked +numberless times by the best mountaineers without success; the other, +surrounded by traditional inaccessibility, was almost untouched. These +mountains were the Weisshorn and the Matterhorn. + +After visiting the great tunnel of the Alps in 1861, I wandered for ten +days in the neighbouring valleys, intending, presently, to attempt the +ascent of these two peaks. Rumours were floating about that the former had +been conquered, and that the latter was shortly to be attacked, and they +were confirmed on arrival at Chatillon, at the entrance of the Val +Tournanche. My interest in the Weisshorn consequently abated, but it was +raised to the highest pitch on hearing that Professor Tyndall was at +Breil, and intending to try to crown his first victory by another and +still greater one. + +Up to this time my experience with guides had not been fortunate, and I +was inclined, improperly, to rate them at a low value. They represented to +me pointers out of paths, and large consumers of meat and drink, but +little more; and, with the recollection of Mont Pelvoux, I should have +greatly preferred the company of a couple of my countrymen to any number +of guides. In answer to inquiries at Chatillon, a series of men came +forward, whose faces expressed malice, pride, envy, hatred, and roguery of +every description, but who seemed to be destitute of all good qualities. +The arrival of two gentlemen with a guide, who they represented was the +embodiment of every virtue, and exactly the man for the Matterhorn, +rendered it unnecessary to engage any of the others. My new guide in +_physique_ was a combination of Chang and Anak; and although in acquiring +him I did not obtain exactly what was wanted, his late employers did +exactly what _they_ wanted, for I obtained the responsibility, without +knowledge, of paying his back fare, which must have been a relief at once +to their minds and to their purses. + +When walking up towards Breil,(31) we inquired for another man of all the +knowing ones, and they, with one voice, proclaimed that Jean-Antoine +Carrel, of the village of Val Tournanche, was the cock of his valley. We +sought, of course, for Carrel; and found him a well-made, resolute-looking +fellow, with a certain defiant air which was rather taking. Yes, he would +go. Twenty francs a day, whatever was the result, was his price. I +assented. But I must take his comrade. "Why so?" Oh, it was absolutely +impossible to get along without another man. As he said this, an evil +countenance came forth out of the darkness and proclaimed itself the +comrade. I demurred, the negotiations broke off, and we went up to Breil. +This place will be frequently mentioned in subsequent chapters, and was in +full view of the extraordinary peak, the ascent of which we were about to +attempt. + + + +It is unnecessary to enter into a minute description of the Matterhorn, +after all that has been written about that famous mountain. Those by whom +this book is likely to be read will know that that peak is nearly 15,000 +feet high, and that it rises abruptly, by a series of cliffs which may +properly be termed precipices, a clear 5000 feet above the glaciers which +surround its base. They will know too that it was the last great Alpine +peak which remained unscaled,--less on account of the difficulty of doing +so, than from the terror inspired by its invincible appearance. There +seemed to be a _cordon_ drawn around it, up to which one might go, but no +farther. Within that invisible line gins and effreets were supposed to +exist--the Wandering Jew and the spirits of the damned. The superstitious +natives in the surrounding valleys (many of whom still firmly believe it +to be not only the highest mountain in the Alps, but in the world) spoke +of a ruined city on its summit wherein the spirits dwelt; and if you +laughed, they gravely shook their heads; told you to look yourself to see +the castles and the walls, and warned one against a rash approach, lest +the infuriate demons from their impregnable heights might hurl down +vengeance for one's derision. Such were the traditions of the natives. +Stronger minds felt the influence of the wonderful form, and men who +ordinarily spoke or wrote like rational beings, when they came under its +power seemed to quit their senses, and ranted, and rhapsodised, losing for +a time all common forms of speech. Even the sober De Saussure was moved to +enthusiasm when he saw the mountain, and--inspired by the spectacle--he +anticipated the speculations of modern geologists, in the striking +sentences which are placed at the head of this chapter. + +The Matterhorn looks equally imposing from whatever side it is seen; it +never seems commonplace; and in this respect, and in regard to the +impression it makes upon spectators, it stands almost alone amongst +mountains. It has no rivals in the Alps, and but few in the world. + +The seven or eight thousand feet which compose the actual peak have +several well-marked ridges and numerous others.(32) The most continuous is +that which leads towards the north-east; the summit is at its higher, and +the little peak, called the Hoernli, is at its lower end. Another one that +is well-pronounced descends from the summit to the ridge called the Furgen +Grat. The slope of the mountain that is between these two ridges will be +referred to as the eastern face. A third, somewhat less continuous than +the others, descends in a south-westerly direction, and the portion of the +mountain that is seen from Breil is confined to that which is comprised +between this and the second ridge. This section is not composed, like that +between the first and second ridge, of one grand face; but it is broken up +into a series of huge precipices, spotted with snow-slopes, and streaked +with snow-gullies. The other half of the mountain, facing the Z'Mutt +glacier, is not capable of equally simple definition. There are +precipices, apparent, but not actual; there are precipices absolutely +perpendicular; there are precipices overhanging: there are glaciers, and +there are hanging glaciers; there are glaciers which tumble great _seracs_ +over greater cliffs, whose debris, subsequently consolidated, becomes +glacier again; there are ridges split by the frost, and washed by the rain +and melted snow into towers and spires: while, everywhere, there are +ceaseless sounds of action, telling that the causes are still in operation +which have been at work since the world began; reducing the mighty mass to +atoms, and effecting its degradation. + + [Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE NORTH-EAST.] + + [Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE THEODULE PASS. + (10,899 FEET)] + +Most tourists obtain their first view of the mountain either from the +valley of Zermatt or from that of Tournanche. From the former direction +the base of the mountain is seen at its narrowest, and its ridges and +faces seem to be of prodigious steepness. The tourist toils up the valley, +looking frequently for the great sight which is to reward his pains, +without seeing it (for the mountain is first perceived in that direction +about a mile to the north of Zermatt), when, all at once, as he turns a +rocky corner of the path, it comes into view; not, however, where it is +expected; the face has to be raised up to look at it; it seems overhead. +Although this is the impression, the fact is that the summit of the +Matterhorn from this point makes an angle with the eye of less than 16º, +while the Dom, from the same place, makes a larger angle, but is passed by +unobserved. So little can dependence be placed on unaided vision. The view +of the mountain from Breil, in the Val Tournanche, is not less striking +than that on the other side; but, usually, it makes less impression, +because the spectator grows accustomed to the sight while coming up or +down the valley. From this direction the mountain is seen to be broken up +into a series of pyramidal wedge-shaped masses; on the other side it is +remarkable for the large, unbroken extent of cliffs that it presents, and +for the simplicity of its outline. It was natural to suppose that a way +would more readily be found to the summit on a side thus broken up than in +any other direction. The eastern face, fronting Zermatt, seemed one +smooth, inaccessible cliff, from summit to base. The ghastly precipices +which face the Z'Mutt glacier forbade any attempt in _that_ direction. +There remained only the side of Val Tournanche; and it will be found that +nearly all the earliest attempts to ascend the mountain were made upon the +southern side. + +The first efforts to ascend the Matterhorn of which I have heard, were +made by the guides, or rather by the chasseurs, of Val Tournanche.(33) +These attempts were made in the years 1858-9, from the direction of Breil, +and the highest point that was attained was perhaps as far as the place +which is now called the "Chimney" (cheminee), a height of about 12,650 +feet. Those who were concerned in these expeditions were Jean-Antoine +Carrel, Jean Jacques Carrel, Victor Carrel, the Abbe Gorret, and Gabrielle +Maquignaz. I have been unable to obtain any further details respecting +them. + +The next attempt was a remarkable one; and of it, too, there is no +published account. It was made by the Messrs. Alfred, Charles, and +Sandbach Parker, of Liverpool, in July 1860. These gentlemen, _without +guides_, endeavoured to storm the citadel by attacking its eastern +face(34)--that to which reference was just now made as a smooth, +impracticable cliff. Mr. Sandbach Parker informs me that he and his +brothers went along the ridge between the Hoernli and the peak until they +came to the point where the ascending angle is considerably increased. +This place is marked on Dufour's map of Switzerland 3298 metres (10,820 +feet). They were then obliged to bear a little to the left to get on to +the face of the mountain, and, afterwards, they turned to the right, and +ascended about 700 feet farther, keeping as nearly as was practicable to +the crest of the ridge, but, occasionally, bearing a little to the +left--that is, more on to the face of the mountain. The brothers started +from Zermatt, and did not sleep out. Clouds, a high wind, and want of +time, were the causes which prevented these daring gentlemen from going +farther. Thus, their highest point was under 12,000 feet. + +[Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM NEAR THE SUMMIT OF THE THEODULE PASS.] + +The third attempt upon the mountain was made towards the end of August +1860, by Mr. Vaughan Hawkins,(35) from the side of the Val Tournanche. A +vivid account of his expedition has been published by him in _Vacation +Tourists_;(36) and it has been referred to several times by Professor +Tyndall in the numerous papers he has contributed to Alpine literature. I +will dismiss it, therefore, as briefly as possible. + +Mr. Hawkins had inspected the mountain in 1859, with the guide J. J. +Bennen, and he had formed the opinion that the south-west ridge(37) would +lead to the summit. He engaged J. Jacques Carrel, who was concerned in the +first attempts, and, accompanied by Bennen (and by Professor Tyndall, whom +he had invited to take part in the expedition), he started for the gap +between the little and the great peak.(38) + + [Illustration: J. J. BENNEN (1862).] + +Bennen was a guide who was beginning to be talked about. During the chief +part of his brief career he was in the service of Wellig, the landlord of +the inn on the AEggischhorn, and was hired out by him to tourists. Although +his experience was limited, he had acquired a good reputation; and his +book of certificates, which is lying before me,(39) shows that he was +highly esteemed by his employers. A good-looking man, with courteous, +gentlemanly manners, skilful and bold, he might, by this time, have taken +a front place amongst guides if he had only been endowed with more +prudence. He perished miserably, in the spring of 1864, not far from his +home, on a mountain called the Haut de Cry, in the Valais.(40) + +Mr. Hawkins' party, led by Bennen, climbed the rocks abutting against the +Couloir du Lion, on its south side, and attained the Col du Lion, although +not without difficulty. They then followed the south-west ridge, passed +the place at which the earliest explorers had turned back (the +Chimney),(41) and ascended about 300 feet more. Mr. Hawkins and J. J. +Carrel then stopped, but Bennen and Professor Tyndall mounted a few feet +higher. They retreated, however, in less than half-an-hour, finding that +there was too little time; and, descending to the Col by the same route as +they had followed on the ascent, proceeded thence to Breil, down the +Couloir instead of by the rocks. The point at which Mr. Hawkins stopped is +easily identified from his description. Its height is 12,992 feet above +the sea. I think that Bennen and Tyndall could not have ascended more than +50 or 60 feet beyond this in the few minutes they were absent from the +others, as they were upon one of the most difficult parts of the mountain. +This party therefore accomplished an advance of about 350 or 400 feet. + +Mr. Hawkins did not, as far as I know, make another attempt; and the next +was made by the Messrs. Parker, in July 1861. They again started from +Zermatt; followed the route they had struck out on the previous year, and +got a little higher than before; but they were defeated by want of time, +shortly afterwards left Zermatt on account of bad weather, and did not +again renew their attempts. Mr. Parker says--"In neither case did we go as +high as we could. At the point where we turned we saw our way for a few +hundred feet farther; but, beyond that, the difficulties seemed to +increase." I am informed that both attempts should be considered as +excursions undertaken with the view of ascertaining whether there was any +encouragement to make a more deliberate attack on the north-east side. + + + +My guide and I arrived at Breil on the 28th of August 1861, and we found +that Professor Tyndall _had_ been there a day or two before, but had done +nothing. I had seen the mountain from nearly every direction, and it +seemed, even to a novice like myself, far too much for a single day. I +intended to sleep out upon it, as high as possible, and to attempt to +reach the summit on the following day. We endeavoured to induce another +man to accompany us, but without success. Matthias zum Taugwald and other +well-known guides were there at the time, but they declined to go on any +account. A sturdy old fellow--Peter Taugwalder by name--said he would go! +His price? "Two hundred francs." "What, whether we ascend or not?" +"Yes--nothing less." The end of the matter was, that all the men who were +more or less capable showed a strong disinclination, or positively +refused, to go (their disinclination being very much in proportion to +their capacity), or else asked a prohibitive price. This, it may be said +once for all, was the reason why so many futile attempts were made upon +the Matterhorn. One first-rate guide after another was brought up to the +mountain, and patted on the back, but all declined the business. The men +who went had no heart in the matter, and took the first opportunity to +turn back.(42) For they were, with the exception of one man, to whom +reference will be made presently, universally impressed with the belief +that the summit was entirely inaccessible. + +We resolved to go alone, and anticipating a cold bivouac, begged the loan +of a couple of blankets from the innkeeper. He refused them; giving the +curious reason, that we had bought a bottle of brandy at Val Tournanche, +and had not bought any from him! No brandy, no blankets, appeared to be +his rule. We did not require them that night, as it was passed in the +highest cow-shed in the valley, which is about an hour nearer to the +mountain than is the hotel. The cowherds, worthy fellows, seldom troubled +by tourists, hailed our company with delight, and did their best to make +us comfortable; brought out their little stores of simple food, and, as we +sat with them round the great copper pot which hung over the fire, bade us +in husky voice, but with honest intent, to beware of the perils of the +haunted cliffs. When night was coming on, we saw, stealing up the +hill-side, the forms of Jean-Antoine Carrel and the comrade. "Oh ho!" I +said, "you have repented?" "Not at all; you deceive yourself." "Why then +have you come here?" "Because we ourselves are going on the mountain +to-morrow." "Oh, then it is _not_ necessary to have more than three." "Not +for _us_." I admired their pluck, and had a strong inclination to engage +the pair; but, finally, decided against it. The comrade turned out to be +the J. J. Carrel who had been with Mr. Hawkins, and was nearly related to +the other man. + + [Illustration: JEAN-ANTOINE CARREL (1869).] + +Both were bold mountaineers; but Jean-Antoine was incomparably the better +man of the two, and he is the finest rock-climber I have ever seen. He was +the only man who persistently refused to accept defeat, and who continued +to believe, in spite of all discouragements, that the great mountain was +not inaccessible, and that it could be ascended from the side of his +native valley. + +The night wore away without any excitement, except from the fleas, a party +of whom executed a spirited fandango on my cheek, to the sound of music +produced on the drum of my ear, by one of their fellows beating with a +wisp of hay. The two Carrels crept noiselessly out before daybreak, and +went off. We did not start until nearly seven o'clock, and followed them +leisurely, leaving all our properties in the cow-shed; sauntered over the +gentian-studded slopes which intervene between the shed and the Glacier du +Lion, left cows and their pastures behind, traversed the stony wastes, and +arrived at the ice. Old, hard beds of snow lay on its right bank (our left +hand), and we mounted over them on to the lower portion of the glacier +with ease. But, as we ascended, crevasses became numerous, and we were at +last brought to a halt by some which were of very large dimensions; and, +as our cutting powers were limited, we sought an easier route, and turned, +naturally, to the lower rocks of the Tete du Lion, which overlook the +glacier on its west. Some good scrambling took us in a short time on to +the crest of the ridge which descends towards the south; and thence, up to +the level of the Col du Lion, there was a long natural staircase, on which +it was seldom necessary to use the hands. We dubbed the place "The Great +Staircase." Then the cliffs of the Tete du Lion, which rise above the +Couloir, had to be skirted. This part varies considerably in different +seasons, and in 1861 we found it difficult; for the fine steady weather of +that year had reduced the snow-beds abutting against it to a lower level +than usual, and the rocks which were left exposed at the junction of the +snow with the cliffs, had few ledges or cracks to which we could hold. But +by half-past ten o'clock we stood on the Col, and looked down upon the +magnificent basin out of which the Z'Mutt glacier flows. We decided to +pass the night upon the Col, for we were charmed with the capabilities of +the place, although it was one where liberties could not be taken. On one +side a sheer wall overhung the Tiefenmatten glacier. On the other, steep, +glassy slopes of hard snow descended to the Glacier du Lion, furrowed by +water and by falling stones. On the north there was the great peak of the +Matterhorn,(43) and on the south the cliffs of the Tete du Lion. Throw a +bottle down to the Tiefenmatten--no sound returns for more than a dozen +seconds. + + * * * "how fearful + And dizzy 'tis, to cast one's eyes so low!" + + [Illustration: THE COL DU LION: LOOKING TOWARDS THE TETE DU LION.] + +But no harm could come from that side. Neither could it from the other. +Nor was it likely that it would from the Tete du Lion, for some jutting +ledges conveniently overhung our proposed resting-place. We waited for a +while, basked in the sunshine, and watched or listened to the Carrels, who +were sometimes seen or heard, high above us, upon the ridge leading +towards the summit; and, leaving at mid-day, we descended to the cow-shed, +packed up the tent and other properties, and returned to the Col, although +heavily laden, before six o'clock. This tent was constructed on a pattern +suggested by Mr. Francis Galton, and it was not a success. It looked very +pretty when set up in London, but it proved thoroughly useless in the +Alps. It was made of light canvas, and opened like a book; had one end +closed permanently and the other with flaps; it was supported by two +alpenstocks, and had the canvas sides prolonged so as to turn in +underneath. Numerous cords were sewn to the lower edges, to which stones +were to be attached; but the main fastenings were by a cord which passed +underneath the ridge and through iron rings screwed into the tops of the +alpenstocks, and were secured by pegs. The wind, which playfully careered +about the surrounding cliffs, was driven through our gap with the force of +a blow-pipe; the flaps of the tent would not keep down, the pegs would not +stay in, and it exhibited so marked a desire to go to the top of the Dent +Blanche, that we thought it prudent to take it down and to sit upon it. +When night came on we wrapped ourselves in it, and made our camp as +comfortable as the circumstances would allow. The silence was impressive. +No living thing was near our solitary bivouac; the Carrels had turned back +and were out of hearing; the stones had ceased to fall, and the trickling +water to murmur-- + + "The music of whose liquid lip + Had been to us companionship, + And, in our lonely life, had grown + To have an almost human tone."(44) + +It was bitterly cold. Water froze hard in a bottle under my head. Not +surprising, as we were actually on snow, and in a position where the +slightest wind was at once felt. For a time we dozed, but about midnight +there came from high aloft a tremendous explosion, followed by a second of +dead quiet. A great mass of rock had split off, and was descending towards +us. My guide started up, wrung his hands, and exclaimed, "O my God, we are +lost!" We heard it coming, mass after mass pouring over the precipices, +bounding and rebounding from cliff to cliff, and the great rocks in +advance smiting one another. They seemed to be close, although they were +probably distant, but some small fragments, which dropped upon us at the +same time from the ledges just above, added to the alarm, and my +demoralised companion passed the remainder of the night in a state of +shudder, ejaculating "terrible," and other adjectives. + +We put ourselves in motion at daybreak, and commenced the ascent of the +south-west ridge. There was no more sauntering with hands in the pockets; +each step had to be earned by downright climbing. But it was the most +pleasant kind of climbing. The rocks were fast and unencumbered with +debris; the cracks were good, although not numerous, and there was nothing +to fear except from one's-self. So we thought, at least, and shouted to +awake echoes from the cliffs. Ah! there is no response. Not yet; wait a +while, everything here is upon a superlative scale; count a dozen, and +then the echoes will return from the walls of the Dent d'Herens, miles +away, in waves of pure and undefiled sound; soft, musical, and sweet. Halt +a moment to regard the view! We overlook the Tete du Lion, and nothing +except the Dent d'Herens, whose summit is still a thousand feet above us, +stands in the way. The ranges of the Graian Alps--an ocean of mountains--are +seen, at a glance, governed by their three great peaks, the Grivola, Grand +Paradis, and Tour de St. Pierre. How soft, and yet how sharp, they look in +the early morning! The mid-day mists have not begun to rise; nothing is +obscured; even the pointed Viso, all but a hundred miles away, is +perfectly defined. + +Turn to the east, and watch the sun's slanting rays coming across the +Monte Rosa snow-fields. Look at the shadowed parts, and see how even +they--radiant with reflected light--are more brilliant than man knows how to +depict. See, how--even there--the gentle undulations give shadows within +shadows; and how--yet again--where falling stones or ice have left a track, +there are shadows upon shadows, each with a light and a dark side, with +infinite gradations of matchless tenderness. Then, note the sunlight as it +steals noiselessly along, and reveals countless unsuspected forms;--the +delicate ripple-lines which mark the concealed crevasse, and the waves of +drifted snow; producing each minute more lights and fresh shadows; +sparkling on the edges and glittering on the ends of the icicles; shining +on the heights and illuminating the depths, until all is aglow, and the +dazzled eye returns for relief to the sombre crags. + +Hardly an hour had passed since we left the Col before we arrived at the +"Chimney." It proved to be the counterpart of the place to which reference +has been made at p. 3; a smooth, straight slab of rock was fixed, at a +considerable angle, between two others equally smooth.(45) My companion +essayed to go up, and, after crumpling his long body into many ridiculous +positions, he said that he would not, for he could not, do it. With some +little trouble I got up it unassisted, and then my guide tied himself on +to the end of our rope, and I endeavoured to pull him up. But he was so +awkward that he did little for himself, and so heavy that he proved too +much for me, and after several attempts he untied himself, and quietly +observed that he should go down. I told him he was a coward, and _he_ +mentioned his opinion of me. I requested him to go to Breil, and to say +that he had left his "monsieur" on the mountain, and he turned to go; +whereupon I had to eat humble pie and ask him to come back; for, although +it was not very difficult to go up, and not at all dangerous with a man +standing below, it was quite another thing to come down, as the lower edge +overhung in a provoking manner. + +The day was perfect; the sun was pouring down grateful warmth; the wind +had fallen; the way seemed clear, no insuperable obstacle was in sight; +yet what could one do alone? I stood on the top, chafing under this +unexpected contretemps, and remained for some time irresolute; but as it +became apparent that the Chimney was swept more frequently than was +necessary (it was a natural channel for falling stones), I turned at last, +descended with the assistance of my companion, and returned with him to +Breil, where we arrived about mid-day. + +The Carrels did not show themselves, but we were told that they had not +got to any great height,(46) and that the "comrade," who for convenience +had taken off his shoes and tied them round his waist, had managed to let +one of them slip, and had come down with a piece of cord fastened round +his naked foot. Notwithstanding this, they had boldly glissaded down the +Couloir du Lion, J. J. Carrel having his shoeless foot tied up in a pocket +handkerchief. + +The Matterhorn was not assailed again in 1861. I left Breil with the +conviction that it was little use for a single tourist to organise an +attack upon it, so great was its influence on the morals of the guides, +and persuaded that it was desirable at least two should go, to back each +other when required: and departed with my guide(47) over the Col Theodule, +longing, more than before, to make the ascent, and determined to return, +if possible with a companion, to lay siege to the mountain until one or +the other was vanquished. + + + + + + CHAPTER IV. + + + RENEWED ATTEMPTS TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN. + + + "'Tis a lesson you should heed, + Try, try, try again. + If at first you don't succeed, + Try, try, try again. + Then your courage should appear, + For if you will persevere + You will conquer, never fear. + Try, try, try again." + HICKSON. + + +The year 1862 was still young, and the Matterhorn, clad in its wintry +garb, bore but little resemblance to the Matterhorn of the summer, when a +new force came to do battle with the mountain, from another direction. Mr. +T. S. Kennedy of Leeds conceived the extraordinary idea that the peak +might prove less impracticable in January than in June, and arrived at +Zermatt in the former month to put his conception to the test. With stout +Peter Perrn and sturdy Peter Taugwalder he slept in the little chapel at +the Schwarzensee, and on the next morning, like the Messrs. Parker, +followed the ridge between the peak called Hoernli and the great mountain. +But they found that snow in winter obeyed the ordinary laws, and that the +wind and frost were not less unkind than in summer. "The wind whirled up +the snow and spiculae of ice into our faces like needles, and flat pieces +of ice a foot in diameter, carried up from the glacier below, went flying +past. Still no one seemed to like to be the first to give in, till a gust +fiercer than usual forced us to shelter for a time behind a rock. +Immediately it was tacitly understood that our expedition must now end; +but we determined to leave some memento of our visit, and, after +descending a considerable distance, we found a suitable place with loose +stones of which to build a cairn. In half-an-hour a tower six feet high +was erected; a bottle, with the date, was placed inside, and we retreated +as rapidly as possible."(48) This cairn was placed at the spot marked upon +Dufour's Map of Switzerland 10,820 feet (3298 metres), and the highest +point attained by Mr. Kennedy was not, I imagine, more than two or three +hundred feet above it. + +Shortly after this Professor Tyndall gave, in his little tract +_Mountaineering in 1861_, an account of the reason why he had left Breil, +in August 1861, without doing anything.(49) It seems that he sent his +guide Bennen to reconnoitre, and that the latter made the following report +to his employer:--"Herr, I have examined the mountain carefully, and find +it more difficult and dangerous than I had imagined. There is no place +upon it where we could well pass the night. We might do so on yonder Col +upon the snow, but there we should be almost frozen to death, and totally +unfit for the work of the next day. On the rocks there is no ledge or +cranny which could give us proper harbourage; and starting from Breuil it +is certainly impossible to reach the summit in a single day." "I was +entirely taken aback," says Tyndall, "by this report. I felt like a man +whose grip had given way, and who was dropping through the air.... Bennen +was evidently dead against any attempt upon the mountain. 'We can, at all +events, reach the lower of the two summits,' I remarked. 'Even that is +difficult,' he replied; 'but when you have reached it, what then? The peak +has neither name nor fame.'"(50) + +I was more surprised than discouraged by this report by Bennen. One half +of his assertions I knew to be wrong. The Col to which he referred was the +Col du Lion, upon which we had passed a night less than a week after he +had spoken so authoritatively; and I had seen a place not far below the +"Chimney,"--a place about 500 feet above the Col--where it seemed possible +to construct a sleeping-place. Bennen's opinions seem to have undergone a +complete change. In 1860 he is described as having been enthusiastic to +make an attempt, and in 1861 he was dead against one. Nothing dismayed by +this, my friend Mr. Reginald Macdonald, our companion on the Pelvoux--to +whom so much of our success had been due, agreed to join me in a renewed +assault from the south; and, although we failed to secure Melchior +Anderegg and some other notable guides, we obtained two men of repute, +namely, Johann zum Taugwald and Johann Kronig, of Zermatt. We met at that +place early in July, but stormy weather prevented us even from passing to +the other side of the chain for some time. We crossed the Col Theodule on +the 5th, in thoroughly unsettled weather--rain was falling in the valleys, +and snow upon the mountains. Shortly before we gained the summit we were +made extremely uncomfortable by hearing mysterious, rushing sounds, which +sometimes seemed as if a sudden gust of wind was sweeping along the snow, +and, at others, almost like the swishing of a long whip: yet the snow +exhibited no signs of motion, and the air was perfectly calm. The dense, +black storm-clouds made us momentarily expect that our bodies might be +used as lightning-conductors, and we were well satisfied to get under +shelter of the inn at Breil, without having submitted to any such +experience.(51) + +We had need of a porter, and, by the advice of our landlord, descended to +the chalets of Breil in search of one Luc Meynet. We found his house a +mean abode, encumbered with cheese-making apparatus, and tenanted only by +some bright-eyed children; but as they said that uncle Luc would soon be +home, we waited at the door of the little chalet and watched for him. At +last a speck was seen coming round the corner of the patch of firs below +Breil, and then the children clapped their hands, dropped their toys, and +ran eagerly forward to meet him. We saw an ungainly, wobbling figure stoop +down and catch up the little ones, kiss them on each cheek, and put them +into the empty panniers on each side of the mule, and then heard it come +on carolling, as if this was not a world of woe: and yet the face of +little Luc Meynet, the hunchback of Breil, bore traces of trouble and +sorrow, and there was more than a touch of sadness in his voice when he +said that he must look after his brother's children. All his difficulties +were, however, at length overcome, and he agreed to join us to carry the +tent. + + + +In the past winter I had turned my attention to tents, and that which we +had brought with us was the result of experiments to devise one which +should be sufficiently portable to be taken over the most difficult +ground, and which should combine lightness with stability. Its base was +just under six feet square, and a cross-section perpendicular to its +length was an equilateral triangle, the sides of which were six feet long. +It was intended to accommodate four persons. It was supported by four +ash-poles, six feet and a half long, and one inch and a quarter thick, +tapering to the top to an inch and an eighth; these were shod with iron +points. The order of proceeding in the construction of the tent was as +follows:--Holes were drilled through the poles about five inches from their +tops, for the insertion of two wrought-iron bolts, three inches long and +one quarter of an inch thick. The bolts were then inserted, and the two +pairs of poles were set out (and fixed up by cords), to the proper +dimensions. The roof was then put on. This was made of the rough, +unbleached calico called forfar, which can be obtained in six-feet widths, +and it was continued round for about two feet, on each side, on to the +floor. The width of the material was the length of the tent, and seams +were thus avoided in the roof. The forfar was sewn round each pole; +particular care being taken to avoid wrinkles, and to get the whole +perfectly taut. The flooring was next put in and sewn down to the forfar. +This was of the ordinary plaid mackintosh, about nine feet square; the +surplus three feet being continued up the sides to prevent draughts. It is +as well to have two feet of this surplus on one side, and only one foot on +the other; the latter amount being sufficient for the side occupied by the +feet. One end was then permanently closed by a triangular piece of forfar, +which was sewn down to that which was already fixed. The other end was +left open, and had two triangular flaps that overlapped each other, and +which were fastened up when we were inside by pieces of tape. Lastly, the +forfar was nailed down to the poles to prevent the tent getting out of +shape. The cord which was used for climbing served for the tent; it was +passed over the crossed poles and underneath the ridge of the roof, and +the two ends--one fore and the other aft--were easily secured to pieces of +rock. Such a tent costs about four guineas, and its weight is about +twenty-three pounds; or, if the lightest kind of forfar is used, it need +not exceed twenty pounds. When it was fastened up for transport it +presented the appearance shown in the portrait of Meynet at p. 234, and it +could be unrolled and set up by two persons in three minutes; a point of +no small importance during extreme weather. + + [Illustration: Diagram to show manner of fastening tent-poles] + + [Illustration: THE AUTHOR'S MOUNTAIN TENT.] + +This tent is intended, and adapted, for camping out at high altitudes, or +in cold climates. It is not pretended that it is perfectly waterproof, but +it can be made so by the addition of mackintosh to the roof; and this +increases the weight by only two and a half pounds. It is then fit for +general use.(52) It may be observed that the pattern of this tent is +identical in all essential points with that arrived at (after great +experience) by Sir Leopold M'Clintock for Arctic work, and frequent use by +many persons, under varied conditions, has shown that the pattern is both +practical and substantial. + +Sunday, the 6th of July, was showery, and snow fell on the Matterhorn, but +we started on the following morning with our three men, and pursued my +route of the previous year. I was requested to direct the way, as none +save myself had been on the mountain before. I did not distinguish myself +upon this occasion, and led my companions nearly to the top of the small +peak before the mistake was discovered. The party becoming rebellious, a +little exploration was made towards our right, and we found that we were +upon the top of the cliff overlooking the Col du Lion. The upper part of +the small peak is of a very different character to the lower part; the +rocks are not so firm, and they are usually covered, or intermixed, with +snow, and glazed with ice: the angle too is more severe. While descending +a small snow-slope, to get on to the right track, Kronig slipped on a +streak of ice, and went down at a fearful pace. Fortunately he kept on his +legs, and, by a great effort, succeeded in stopping just before he arrived +at some rocks that jutted through the snow, which would infallibly have +knocked him over. When we rejoined him a few minutes later, we found that +he was incapable of standing, much less of moving, with a face corpse-like +in hue, and trembling violently. He remained in this condition for more +than an hour, and the day was consequently far advanced before we arrived +at our camping-place on the Col. Profiting by the experience of last year, +we did not pitch the tent actually on the snow, but collected a quantity +of debris from the neighbouring ledges, and after constructing a rough +platform of the larger pieces, levelled the whole with the dirt and mud. + +Meynet had proved invaluable as a tent-bearer; for--although his legs were +more picturesque than symmetrical, and although he seemed to be built on +principle with no two parts alike--his very deformities proved of service; +and we quickly found he had spirit of no common order, and that few +peasants are more agreeable companions, or better climbers, than little +Luc Meynet, the hunchback of Breil. He now showed himself not less +serviceable as a scavenger, and humbly asked for gristly pieces of meat, +rejected by the others, or for suspicious eggs; and seemed to consider it +a peculiar favour, if not a treat, to be permitted to drink the +coffee-grounds. With the greatest contentment he took the worst place at +the door of the tent, and did all the dirty work which was put upon him by +the guides, as gratefully as a dog--who has been well beaten--will receive a +stroke. + +A strong wind sprang up from the east during the night, and in the morning +it was blowing almost a hurricane. The tent behaved nobly, and we remained +under its shelter for several hours after the sun had risen, uncertain +what it was best to do. A lull tempted us to move, but we had scarcely +ascended a hundred feet before the storm burst upon us with increased +fury. Advance or return was alike impossible; the ridge was denuded of its +debris; and we clutched our hardest when we saw stones as big as a man's +fist blown away horizontally into space. We dared not attempt to stand +upright, and remained stationary, on all fours, glued, as it were, to the +rocks. It was intensely cold, for the blast had swept along the main chain +of the Pennine Alps, and across the great snow-fields around Monte Rosa. +Our warmth and courage rapidly evaporated, and at the next lull we +retreated to the tent; having to halt several times even in that short +distance. Taugwald and Kronig then declared that they had had enough, and +refused to have anything more to do with the mountain. Meynet also +informed us that he would be required down below for important +cheese-making operations on the following day. It was therefore needful to +return to Breil, and we arrived there at 2.30 P.M., extremely chagrined at +our complete defeat. + +Jean-Antoine Carrel, attracted by rumours, had come up to the inn during +our absence, and after some negotiations agreed to accompany us, with one +of his friends named Pession, on the first fine day. We thought ourselves +fortunate; for Carrel clearly considered the mountain a kind of +_preserve_, and regarded our late attempt as an act of _poaching_. The +wind blew itself out during the night, and we started again, with these +two men and a porter, at 8 A.M. on the 9th, with unexceptionable weather. +Carrel pleased us by suggesting that we should camp even higher than +before; and we accordingly proceeded, without resting at the Col, until we +overtopped the Tete du Lion. Near the foot of the "Chimney," a little +below the crest of the ridge, and on its eastern side, we found a +protected place; and by building up from ledge to ledge (under the +direction of our leader, who was a mason by profession), we at length +constructed a platform of sufficient size and of considerable solidity. +Its height was about 12,550 feet above the sea; and it exists, I believe, +at the present time.(53) We then pushed on, as the day was very fine, and, +after a short hour's scramble, got to the foot of the Great Tower upon the +ridge (that is to say, to Mr. Hawkins' farthest point), and afterwards +returned to our bivouac. We turned out again at 4 A.M., and at 5.15 +started upwards once more, with fine weather and the thermometer at 28 deg.. +Carrel scrambled up the Chimney, and Macdonald and I after him. Pession's +turn came, but when he arrived at the top he looked very ill, declared +himself to be thoroughly incapable, and said that he must go back. We +waited some time, but he did not get better, neither could we learn the +nature of his illness. Carrel flatly refused to go on with us alone. We +were helpless. Macdonald, ever the coolest of the cool, suggested that we +should try what we could do without them; but our better judgment +prevailed, and, finally, we returned together to Breil. On the next day my +friend started for London. + +Three times I had essayed the ascent of this mountain, and on each +occasion had failed ignominiously. I had not advanced a yard beyond my +predecessors. Up to the height of nearly 13,000 feet there were no +extraordinary difficulties; the way so far might even become "a matter of +amusement." Only 1800 feet remained; but they were as yet untrodden, and +might present the most formidable obstacles. No man could expect to climb +them by himself. A morsel of rock only seven feet high might at any time +defeat him, if it were perpendicular. Such a place might be possible to +two, or a bagatelle to three men. It was evident that a party should +consist of three men at least. But where could the other two men be +obtained? Carrel was the only man who exhibited any enthusiasm in the +matter; and he, in 1861, had absolutely refused to go unless the party +consisted of at least _four_ persons. Want of men made the difficulty, not +the mountain. + +The weather became bad again, so I went to Zermatt on the chance of +picking up a man, and remained there during a week of storms.(54) Not one +of the better men, however, could be induced to come, and I returned to +Breil on the 17th, hoping to combine the skill of Carrel with the +willingness of Meynet on a new attempt, by the same route as before; for +the Hoernli ridge, which I had examined in the meantime, seemed to be +entirely impracticable. Both men were inclined to go, but their ordinary +occupations prevented them from starting at once.(55) + +My tent had been left rolled up at the second platform, and whilst waiting +for the men it occurred to me that it might have been blown away during +the late stormy weather; so I started off on the 18th to see if this were +so or not. The way was by this time familiar, and I mounted rapidly, +astonishing the friendly herdsmen--who nodded recognition as I flitted past +them and the cows--for I was alone, because no man was available. But more +deliberation was necessary when the pastures were passed, and climbing +began, for it was needful to mark each step, in case of mist, or surprise +by night. It is one of the few things which can be said in favour of +mountaineering alone (a practice which has little besides to commend it), +that it awakens a man's faculties, and makes him observe. When one has no +arms to help, and no head to guide him except his own, he must needs take +note even of small things, for he cannot afford to throw away a chance; +and so it came to pass, upon my solitary scramble, when above the +snow-line, and beyond the ordinary limits of flowering plants, when +peering about, noting angles and landmarks, that my eyes fell upon the +tiny straggling plants--oftentimes a single flower on a single +stalk--pioneers of vegetation, atoms of life in a world of desolation, +which had found their way up--who can tell how?--from far below, and were +obtaining bare sustenance from the scanty soil in protected nooks; and it +gave a new interest to the well-known rocks to see what a gallant fight +the survivors made (for many must have perished in the attempt) to ascend +the great mountain. The Gentian, as one might have expected, was there; +but it was run close by Saxifrages, and by _Linaria alpina_, and was +beaten by _Thlaspi rotundifolium_, which latter plant was the highest I +was able to secure, although it too was overtopped by a little white +flower which I knew not, and was unable to reach.(56) + +The tent was safe, although snowed up; and I turned to contemplate the +view, which, when seen alone and undisturbed, had all the strength and +charm of complete novelty. The highest peaks of the Pennine chain were in +front--the Breithorn (13,685 feet), the Lyskamm (14,889), and Monte Rosa +(15,217); then, turning to the right, the entire block of mountains which +separated the Val Tournanche from the Val d'Ayas was seen at a glance, +with its dominating summit the Grand Tournalin (11,155). Behind were the +ranges dividing the Val d'Ayas from the Valley of Gressoney, backed by +higher summits. More still to the right, the eye wandered down the entire +length of the Val Tournanche, and then rested upon the Graian Alps with +their innumerable peaks, and upon the isolated pyramid of Monte Viso +(12,643) in the extreme distance. Next, still turning to the right, came +the mountains intervening between the Val Tournanche and the Val +Barthelemy: Mont Rouss (a round-topped snowy summit, which seems so +important from Breil, but which is in reality only a buttress of the +higher mountain, the Chateau des Dames), had long ago sunk, and the eye +passed over it, scarcely heeding its existence, to the Becca Salle (or, as +it is sometimes called, Bec de Sale),--a miniature Matterhorn--and to other, +and more important heights. Then the grand mass of the Dent d'Herens +(13,714) stopped the way; a noble mountain, encrusted on its northern +slopes with enormous hanging glaciers, which broke away at mid-day in +immense slices, and thundered down on to the Tiefenmatten glacier; and +lastly, most splendid of all, came the Dent Blanche (14,318), soaring +above the basin of the great Z'Muttgletscher. Such a view is hardly to be +excelled in the Alps, and _this_ view is very rarely seen, as I saw it, +perfectly unclouded.(57) + +Time sped away unregarded, and the little birds which had built their +nests on the neighbouring cliffs had begun to chirp their evening hymn +before I thought of returning. Half mechanically I turned to the tent, +unrolled it, and set it up; it contained food enough for several days, and +I resolved to stay over the night. I had started from Breil without +provisions, or telling Favre--the innkeeper, who was accustomed to my +erratic ways--where I was going. I returned to the view. The sun was +setting, and its rosy rays, blending with the snowy blue, had thrown a +pale, pure violet far as the eye could see; the valleys were drowned in +purple gloom, whilst the summits shone with unnatural brightness: and as I +sat in the door of the tent, and watched the twilight change to darkness, +the earth seemed to become less earthy and almost sublime; the world +seemed dead, and I, its sole inhabitant. By and by, the moon as it rose +brought the hills again into sight, and by a judicious repression of +detail rendered the view yet more magnificent. Something in the south hung +like a great glow-worm in the air; it was too large for a star, and too +steady for a meteor; and it was long before I could realise the incredible +fact that it was the moonlight glittering on the great snow-slope on the +north side of Monte Viso, at a distance, as the crow flies, of 98 miles. +Shivering, at last I entered the tent and made my coffee. The night was +passed comfortably, and the next morning, tempted by the brilliancy of the +weather, I proceeded yet higher in search of another place for a platform. + + [Illustration: Climbing claw] + +Solitary scrambling over a pretty wide area had shown me that a single +individual is subjected to many difficulties which do not trouble a party +of two or three men, and that the disadvantages of being alone are more +felt while descending than during the ascent. In order to neutralise these +inconveniences, I devised two little appliances, which were now brought +into use for the first time. One was a claw--a kind of grapnel--about five +inches long, made of shear steel, one-fifth of an inch thick. This was of +use in difficult places, where there was no hold within arm's length, but +where there were cracks or ledges some distance higher. The claw could be +stuck on the end of the alpenstock and dropped into such places, or, on +extreme occasions, flung up until it attached itself to something. The +edges that laid hold of the rocks were serrated, which tended to make them +catch more readily: the other end had a ring to which a rope was fastened. +It must not be understood that this was employed for hauling one's-self up +for any great distance, but that it was used in ascending, at the most, +for only a few yards at a time. In descending, however, it could be +prudently used for a greater distance at a time, as the claws could be +planted firmly; but it was necessary to keep the rope taut, and the pull +constantly in the direction of the length of the implement, otherwise it +had a tendency to slip away. The second device was merely a modification +of a dodge practised by all climbers. It is frequently necessary for a +single man (or for the last man of a party) during a descent, to make a +loop in the end of his rope, to pass it over some rocks, and to come down +holding the free end. The loop is then jerked off, and the process may be +repeated. But as it sometimes happens that there are no rocks at hand +which will allow a loose loop to be used, a slip-knot has to be resorted +to, and the rope is drawn in tightly. Consequently it will occur that it +is not possible to jerk the loop off, and the rope has to be cut and left +behind. To prevent this, I had a wrought-iron ring (two and a quarter +inches in diameter and three-eighths of an inch thick) attached to one end +of my rope. A loop could be made in a moment by passing the other end of +the rope through this ring, which of course slipped up and held tightly as +I descended holding the free end. A strong piece of cord was also attached +to the ring, and, on arriving at the bottom, this was pulled; the ring +slid back again, and the loop was whipped off readily. By means of these +two simple appliances I was able to ascend and descend rocks, which +otherwise would have been completely impassable for a single person. The +combined weight of these two things amounted to less than half-a-pound. + + [Illustration: Rope and rin] + +It has been mentioned (p. 55) that the rocks of the south-west ridge are +by no means difficult for some distance above the Col du Lion. This is +true of the rocks up to the level of the Chimney, but they steepen when +that is passed, and remaining smooth and with but few fractures, and still +continuing to dip outwards, present some steps of a very uncertain kind, +particularly when they are glazed with ice. At this point (just above the +Chimney) the climber is obliged to follow the southern (or Breil) side of +the ridge, but, in a few feet more, one must turn over to the northern (or +Z'Mutt) side, where, in most years, nature kindly provides a snow-slope. +When this is surmounted, one can again return to the crest of the ridge, +and follow it, by easy rocks, to the foot of the Great Tower. This was the +highest point attained by Mr. Hawkins in 1860, and it was also our highest +on the 9th of July. + +This Great Tower is one of the most striking features of the ridge. It +stands out like a turret at the angle of a castle. Behind it a +battlemented wall leads upwards to the citadel.(58) Seen from the Theodule +pass, it looks only an insignificant pinnacle, but as one approaches it +(on the ridge) so it seems to rise, and, when one is at its base, it +completely conceals the upper parts of the mountain. I found here a +suitable place for the tent; which, although not so well protected as the +second platform, possessed the advantage of being 300 feet higher up; and +fascinated by the wildness of the cliffs, and enticed by the perfection of +the weather, I went on to see what was behind. + +The first step was a difficult one. The ridge became diminished to the +least possible width--it was hard to keep one's balance--and just where it +was narrowest, a more than perpendicular mass barred the way. Nothing +fairly within arm's reach could be laid hold of; it was necessary to +spring up, and then to haul one's-self over the sharp edge by sheer +strength. Progression directly upwards was then impossible. Enormous and +appalling precipices plunged down to the Tiefenmatten glacier on the left, +but round the right-hand side it was just possible to go. One hindrance +then succeeded another, and much time was consumed in seeking the way. I +have a vivid recollection of a gully of more than usual perplexity at the +side of the Great Tower, with minute ledges and steep walls; of the ledges +dwindling down and at last ceasing; and of finding myself, with arms and +legs divergent, fixed as if crucified, pressing against the rock, and +feeling each rise and fall of my chest as I breathed; of screwing my head +round to look for hold, and not seeing any, and of jumping sideways on to +the other side. 'Tis vain to attempt to describe such places. Whether they +are sketched with a light hand, or wrought out in laborious detail, one +stands an equal chance of being misunderstood. Their enchantment to the +climber arises from their calls on his faculties, in their demands on his +strength, and on overcoming the impediments which they oppose to his +skill. The non-mountaineering reader cannot feel this, and his interest in +descriptions of such places is usually small, unless he supposes that the +situations are perilous. They are not necessarily perilous, but I think +that it is impossible to avoid giving such an impression if the +difficulties are particularly insisted upon. + +About this part there was a change in the quality of the rock, and there +was a change in the general appearance of the ridge. The rocks (talcose +gneiss) below this spot were singularly firm; it was rarely necessary to +test one's hold; the way led over the living rock, and not up rent-off +fragments. But here, all was decay and ruin. The crest of the ridge was +shattered and cleft, and the feet sank in the chips which had drifted +down; while above, huge blocks, hacked and carved by the hand of time, +nodded to the sky, looking like the grave-stones of giants. Out of +curiosity I wandered to a notch in the ridge, between two tottering piles +of immense masses, which seemed to need but a few pounds on one or the +other side to make them fall; so nicely poised that they would literally +have rocked in the wind, for they were put in motion by a touch; and based +on support so frail that I wondered they did not collapse before my eyes. +In the whole range of my Alpine experience I have seen nothing more +striking than this desolate, ruined, and shattered ridge at the back of +the Great Tower. I have seen stranger shapes,--rocks which mimic the human +form, with monstrous leering faces--and isolated pinnacles, sharper and +greater than any here; but I have never seen exhibited so impressively the +tremendous effects which may be produced by frost, and by the +long-continued action of forces whose individual effects are barely +perceptible. + +It is needless to say that it is impossible to climb by the crest of the +ridge at this part; still one is compelled to keep near to it, for there +is no other way. Generally speaking, the angles on the Matterhorn are too +steep to allow the formation of considerable beds of snow, but here there +is a corner which permits it to accumulate, and it is turned to +gratefully, for, by its assistance, one can ascend four times as rapidly +as upon the rocks. + +The Tower was now almost out of sight, and I looked over the central +Pennine Alps to the Grand Combin, and to the chain of Mont Blanc. My +neighbour, the Dent d'Herens, still rose above me, although but slightly, +and the height which had been attained could be measured by its help. So +far, I had no doubts about my capacity to descend that which had been +ascended; but, in a short time, on looking ahead, I saw that the cliffs +steepened, and I turned back (without pushing on to them, and getting into +inextricable difficulties), exulting in the thought that they would be +passed when we returned together, and that I had, without assistance, got +nearly to the height of the Dent d'Herens, and considerably higher than +any one had been before.(59) My exultation was a little premature. + +About 5 P.M. I left the tent again, and thought myself as good as at +Breil. The friendly rope and claw had done good service, and had +smoothened all the difficulties. I lowered myself through the Chimney, +however, by making a fixture of the rope, which I then cut off, and left +behind, as there was enough and to spare. My axe had proved a great +nuisance in coming down, and I left it in the tent. It was not attached to +the baton, but was a separate affair,--an old navy boarding-axe. While +cutting up the different snow-beds on the ascent, the baton trailed behind +fastened to the rope; and, when climbing, the axe was carried behind, run +through the rope tied round my waist, and was sufficiently out of the way. +But in descending, when coming down face outwards (as is always best where +it is possible), the head or the handle of the weapon caught frequently +against the rocks, and several times nearly upset me. So, out of laziness +if you will, it was left in the tent. I paid dearly for the imprudence. + +The Col du Lion was passed, and fifty yards more would have placed me on +the "Great Staircase," down which one can run. But on arriving at an angle +of the cliffs of the Tete du Lion, while skirting the upper edge of the +snow which abuts against them, I found that the heat of the two past days +had nearly obliterated the steps which had been cut when coming up. The +rocks happened to be impracticable just at this corner, so nothing could +be done except make the steps afresh. The snow was too hard to beat or +tread down, and at the angle it was all but ice. Half-a-dozen steps only +were required, and then the ledges could be followed again. So I held to +the rock with my right hand, and prodded at the snow with the point of my +stick until a good step was made, and then, leaning round the angle, did +the same for the other side. So far well, but in attempting to pass the +corner (to the present moment I cannot tell how it happened) I slipped and +fell. + + [Illustration: "THE CHIMNEY." + (ON THE SOUTH-WEST RIDGE OF THE MATTERHORN).] + +The slope was steep on which this took place, and was at the top of a +gully that led down through two subordinate buttresses towards the Glacier +du Lion--which was just seen, a thousand feet below. The gully narrowed and +narrowed, until there was a mere thread of snow lying between two walls of +rock, which came to an abrupt termination at the top of a precipice that +intervened between it and the glacier. Imagine a funnel cut in half +through its length, placed at an angle of 45 degrees, with its point below +and its concave side uppermost, and you will have a fair idea of the +place. + +The knapsack brought my head down first, and I pitched into some rocks +about a dozen feet below; they caught something and tumbled me off the +edge, head over heels, into the gully; the baton was dashed from my hands, +and I whirled downwards in a series of bounds, each longer than the last; +now over ice, now into rocks; striking my head four or five times, each +time with increased force. The last bound sent me spinning through the +air, in a leap of fifty or sixty feet, from one side of the gully to the +other, and I struck the rocks, luckily, with the whole of my left side. +They caught my clothes for a moment, and I fell back on to the snow with +motion arrested. My head fortunately came the right side up, and a few +frantic catches brought me to a halt, in the neck of the gully, and on the +verge of the precipice. Baton, hat, and veil skimmed by and disappeared, +and the crash of the rocks--which I had started--as they fell on to the +glacier, told how narrow had been the escape from utter destruction. As it +was, I fell nearly 200 feet in seven or eight bounds. Ten feet more would +have taken me in one gigantic leap of 800 feet on to the glacier below. + +The situation was sufficiently serious. The rocks could not be left go for +a moment, and the blood was spirting out of more than twenty cuts. The +most serious ones were in the head, and I vainly tried to close them with +one hand, whilst holding on with the other. It was useless; the blood +jerked out in blinding jets at each pulsation. At last, in a moment of +inspiration, I kicked out a big lump of snow, and stuck it as a plaster on +my head. The idea was a happy one, and the flow of blood diminished. Then, +scrambling up, I got, not a moment too soon, to a place of safety, and +fainted away. The sun was setting when consciousness returned, and it was +pitch dark before the Great Staircase was descended; but, by a combination +of luck and care, the whole 4800 feet of descent to Breil was accomplished +without a slip, or once missing the way. I slunk past the cabin of the +cowherds, who were talking and laughing inside, utterly ashamed of the +state to which I had been brought by my imbecility, and entered the inn +stealthily, wishing to escape to my room unnoticed. But Favre met me in +the passage, demanded "Who is it?" screamed with fright when he got a +light, and aroused the household. Two dozen heads then held solemn council +over mine, with more talk than action. The natives were unanimous in +recommending that hot wine (syn. vinegar), mixed with salt, should be +rubbed into the cuts. I protested, but they insisted. It was all the +doctoring they received. Whether their rapid healing was to be attributed +to that simple remedy, or to a good state of health, is a question; they +closed up remarkably quickly, and in a few days I was able to move +again.(60) + + [Illustration: "IN ATTEMPTING TO PASS THE CORNER I SLIPPED AND FELL."] + + [Illustration: AT BREIL (GIOMEIN).] + +It was sufficiently dull during this time. I was chiefly occupied in +meditating on the vanity of human wishes, and in watching my clothes being +washed in the tub which was turned by the stream in the front of the +house; and I vowed that if an Englishman should at any time fall sick in +the Val Tournanche, he should not feel so solitary as I did at this dreary +time.(61) + +The news of the accident brought Jean-Antoine Carrel up to Breil, and, +along with the haughty chasseur, came one of his relatives, a strong and +able young fellow named Caesar. With these two men and Meynet I made +another start on the 23rd of July. We got to the tent without any trouble, +and on the following day had ascended beyond the Tower, and were picking +our way cautiously over the loose rocks behind (where my traces of the +week before were well apparent) in lovely weather, when one of those +abominable and almost instantaneous changes occurred, to which the +Matterhorn is so liable on its southern side. Mists were created out of +invisible vapours, and in a few minutes snow fell heavily. We stopped, as +this part was of excessive difficulty, and, unwilling to retreat, remained +on the spot several hours, in hopes that another change would occur; but, +as it did not, we at length went down to the base of the Tower, and +commenced to make a third platform, at the height of 12,992 feet above the +sea. It still continued to snow, and we took refuge in the tent. Carrel +argued that the weather had broken up, and that the mountain would become +so glazed with ice as to render any attempt futile; and I, that the change +was only temporary, and that the rocks were too hot to allow ice to form +upon them. I wished to stay until the weather improved, but my leader +would not endure contradiction, grew more positive, and insisted that we +must go down. We went down, and when we got below the Col his opinion was +found to be wrong; the cloud was confined to the upper 3000 feet, and +outside it there was brilliant weather. + +Carrel was not an easy man to manage. He was perfectly aware that he was +the cock of the Val Tournanche, and he commanded the other men as by +right. He was equally conscious that he was indispensable to me, and took +no pains to conceal his knowledge of the fact. If he had been commanded, +or if he had been entreated to stop, it would have been all the same. But, +let me repeat, he was the only first-rate climber I could find who +believed that the mountain was not inaccessible. With him I had hopes, but +without him none; so he was allowed to do as he would. His will on this +occasion was almost incomprehensible. He certainly could not be charged +with cowardice, for a bolder man could hardly be found; nor was he turning +away on account of difficulty, for nothing to which we had yet come seemed +to be difficult to _him_; and his strong personal desire to make the +ascent was evident. There was no occasion to come down on account of food, +for we had taken, to guard against this very casualty, enough to last for +a week; and there was no danger, and little or no discomfort, in stopping +in the tent. It seemed to me that he was spinning out the ascent for his +own purposes, and that although he wished very much to be the first man on +the top, and did not object to be accompanied by any one else who had the +same wish, he had no intention of letting one succeed too soon,--perhaps to +give a greater appearance of _eclat_ when the thing was accomplished. As +he feared no rival, he may have supposed that the more difficulties he +made the more valuable he would be estimated; though, to do him justice, +he never showed any great hunger for money. His demands were fair, not +excessive; but he always stipulated for so much per day, and so, under any +circumstances, he did not do badly. + +Vexed at having my time thus frittered away, I was still well pleased when +he volunteered to start again on the morrow, if it should be fine. We were +to advance the tent to the foot of the Tower, to fix ropes in the most +difficult parts beyond, and to make a push for the summit on the following +day. + +The next morning (Friday the 25th) when I arose, good little Meynet was +ready and waiting, and he said that the two Carrels had gone off some time +before, and had left word that they intended marmot-hunting, as the day +was favourable for that sport.(62) My holiday had nearly expired, and +these men clearly could not be relied upon; so, as a last resort, I +proposed to the hunchback to accompany me alone, to see if we could not +get higher than before, though of reaching the summit there was little or +no hope. He did not hesitate, and in a few hours we stood--for the third +time together--upon the Col du Lion. It was the first time Meynet had seen +the view unclouded. The poor little deformed peasant gazed upon it +silently and reverently for a time, and then, unconsciously, fell on one +knee in an attitude of adoration, and clasped his hands, exclaiming in +ecstasy, "Oh, beautiful mountains!" His actions were as appropriate as his +words were natural, and tears bore witness to the reality of his emotion. + +Our power was too limited to advance the tent, so we slept at the old +station, and starting very early the next morning, passed the place where +we had turned back on the 24th, and, subsequently, my highest point on the +19th. We found the crest of the ridge so treacherous that we took to the +cliffs on the right, although most unwillingly. Little by little we fought +our way up, but at length we were both spread-eagled on the all but +perpendicular face, unable to advance, and barely able to descend. We +returned to the ridge. It was almost equally difficult, and infinitely +more unstable; and at length, after having pushed our attempts as far as +was prudent, I determined to return to Breil, and to have a light ladder +made to assist us to overcome some of the steepest parts.(63) I expected, +too, that by this time Carrel would have had enough marmot-hunting, and +would deign to accompany us again. + +We came down at a great pace, for we were now so familiar with the +mountain, and with each other's wants, that we knew immediately when to +give a helping hand, and when to let alone. The rocks also were in a +better state than I have ever seen them, being almost entirely free from +glaze of ice. Meynet was always merriest on the difficult parts, and, on +the most difficult, kept on enunciating the sentiment, "We can only die +once," which thought seemed to afford him infinite satisfaction. We +arrived at the inn early in the evening, and I found my projects summarily +and unexpectedly knocked on the head. + +Professor Tyndall had arrived while we were absent, and he had engaged +both Caesar and Jean-Antoine Carrel. Bennen was also with him, together +with a powerful and active friend, a Valaisan guide, named Anton Walter. +They had a ladder already prepared, provisions were being collected, and +they intended to start on the following morning (Sunday). This new arrival +took me by surprise. Bennen, it will be remembered, refused point-blank to +take Professor Tyndall on the Matterhorn in 1861. "He was dead against any +attempt on the mountain," says Tyndall. He was now eager to set out. +Professor Tyndall has not explained in what way this revolution came about +in his guide. I was equally astonished at the faithlessness of Carrel, and +attributed it to pique at our having presumed to do without him. It was +useless to compete with the Professor and his four men, who were ready to +start in a few hours, so I waited to see what would come of their +attempt.(64) + +Everything seemed to favour it, and they set out on a fine morning in high +spirits, leaving me tormented with envy and all uncharitableness. If they +succeeded, they carried off the prize for which I had been so long +struggling; and if they failed, there was no time to make another attempt, +for I was due in a few days more in London. When this came home clearly to +me, I resolved to leave Breil at once; but, when packing up, found that +some necessaries had been left behind in the tent. So I went off about +midday to recover them; caught the army of the Professor before it reached +the Col, as they were going very slowly; left them there (stopping to take +food), and went on to the tent. I was near to it when all at once I heard +a noise aloft, and, on looking up, perceived a stone of at least a foot +cube flying straight at my head. I ducked, and scrambled under the lee +side of a friendly rock, while the stone went by with a loud buzz. It was +the advanced guard of a perfect storm of stones, which descended with +infernal clatter down the very edge of the ridge, leaving a trail of dust +behind, with a strong smell of sulphur, that told who had sent them. The +men below were on the look-out, but the stones did not come near them, and +breaking away on one side went down to the Glacier du Lion.(65) + +I waited at the tent to welcome the Professor, and when he arrived went +down to Breil. Early next morning some one ran to me saying that a flag +was seen on the summit of the Matterhorn. It was not so, however, although +I saw that they had passed the place where we had turned back on the 26th. +I had now no doubt of their final success, for they had got beyond the +point which Carrel, not less than myself, had always considered to be the +most questionable place on the whole mountain. Up to it there was no +choice of route,--I suppose that at no one point between it and the Col was +it possible to diverge a dozen paces to the right or left, but beyond it +it was otherwise, and we had always agreed, in our debates, that if it +could be passed success was certain. The accompanying outline from a +sketch taken from the door of the inn at Breil will help to explain. The +letter *A* indicates the position of the Great Tower; *C* the "cravate" +(the strongly-marked streak of snow referred to on p. 76, and which we +just failed to arrive at on the 26th); *B* the place where we now saw +something that looked like a flag. Behind the point B a nearly level ridge +leads up to the foot of the final peak, which will be understood by a +reference to the outline facing p. 44, on which the same letters indicate +the same places. It was just now said, we considered that if the point *C* +could be passed, success was certain. Tyndall was at *B* very early in the +morning, and I did not doubt that he would reach the summit, although it +yet remained problematical whether he would be able to stand on the very +highest point. The summit was evidently formed of a long ridge, on which +there were two points nearly equally elevated--so equally that one could +not say which was the highest--and between the two there seemed to be a +deep notch, marked *D* on the outlines, which might defeat one at the very +last moment. + + [Illustration: A CANNONADE ON THE MATTERHORN (1862).] + + [Illustration: The Matterhorn from Breil] + +My knapsack was packed, and I had taken a parting glass of wine with +Favre, who was jubilant at the success which was to make the fortune of +his inn; but I could not bring myself to leave until the result was heard, +and lingered about, as a foolish lover hovers round the object of his +affections, even after he has been contemptuously rejected. The sun had +set before the men were descried coming over the pastures. There was no +spring in their steps--they, too, were defeated. The Carrels hid their +heads, and the others said, as men will do when they have been beaten, +that the mountain was horrible, impossible, and so forth. Professor +Tyndall told me they had arrived _within a stone's throw of the summit_, +and admonished me to have nothing more to do with the mountain. I +understood him to say that he should not try again, and ran down to the +village of Val Tournanche, almost inclined to believe that the mountain +was inaccessible; leaving the tent, ropes, and other matters in the hands +of Favre, to be placed at the disposal of any person who wished to ascend +it, more, I am afraid, out of irony than from generosity. There may have +been those who believed that the Matterhorn could be ascended, but, +anyhow, their faith did not bring forth works. No one tried again in 1862. + + + +Business took me into Dauphine before returning to London, and a week +after Tyndall's defeat I lay one night, after a sultry day, half-asleep, +tossing about in one of the abominations which serve for beds in the inn +kept by the Deputy-Mayor of La Ville de Val Louise; looking at a strange +ruddiness on the ceiling, which I thought might be some effect of +electricity produced by the irritation of the myriads of fleas; when the +great bell of the church, close at hand, pealed out with loud and hurried +clangour. I jumped up, for the voices and movements of the people in the +house made me think of fire. It _was_ fire; and I saw from my window, on +the other side of the river, great forked flames shooting high into the +sky, black dots with long shadows hurrying towards the place, and the +crests of the ridges catching the light and standing out like spectres. +All the world was in motion, for the neighbouring villages--now +aroused--rang out the alarm. I pulled on my shirt, and tore over the +bridge. Three large chalets were on fire, and were surrounded by a mass of +people, who were bringing all their pots and pans, and anything that would +hold water. They formed themselves into several chains, each two deep, +leading towards the nearest stream, and passed the water up one side, and +the empty utensils down the other. My old friend the mayor was there, in +full force, striking the ground with his stick, and vociferating, "Work! +work!" but the men, with much presence of mind, chiefly ranged themselves +on the sides of the empty buckets, and left the real work to their better +halves. Their efforts were useless, and the chalets burnt themselves out. + +The next morning I visited the still smouldering ruins, and saw the +homeless families sitting in a dismal row in front of their charred +property. The people said that one of the houses had been well insured, +and that its owner had endeavoured to forestall luck. He had arranged the +place for a bonfire, set the lower rooms on fire in several places, and +had then gone out of the way, leaving his wife and children in the upper +rooms, to be roasted or not as the case might be. His plans only partially +succeeded, and it was satisfactory to see the scoundrel brought back in +the custody of two stalwart gensdarmes. Three days afterwards I was in +London. + + [Illustration: "BUT WHAT IS THIS?"] + + + + + + CHAPTER V. + + + THE VAL TOURNANCHE--DIRECT PASS FROM BREIL TO ZERMATT + (BREUILJOCH)--ZERMATT--FIRST ASCENT OF THE GRAND TOURNALIN. + + + "How like a winter hath my absence been + From thee, the pleasure of a fleeting year!" + W. SHAKESPEARE. + + +I crossed the Channel on the 29th of July 1863, embarrassed by the +possession of two ladders, each twelve feet long, which joined together +like those used by firemen, and shut up like parallel rulers. My luggage +was highly suggestive of housebreaking, for, besides these, there were +several coils of rope, and numerous tools of suspicious appearance, and it +was reluctantly admitted into France, but it passed through the +custom-house with less trouble than I anticipated, after a timely +expenditure of a few francs. + +I am not in love with the douane. It is the purgatory of travellers, where +uncongenial spirits mingle together for a time, before they are separated +into rich and poor. The douaniers look upon tourists as their natural +enemies; see how eagerly they pounce upon the portmanteaux! One of them +has discovered something! He has never seen its like before, and he holds +it aloft in the face of its owner, with inquisitorial insolence. "But +_what is_ this?" The explanation is only half-satisfactory. "But what is +_this_?" says he, laying hold of a little box. "Powder." "But that it is +forbidden to carry of powder on the railway." "Bah!" says another and +older hand, "pass the effects of Monsieur;" and our countryman--whose +cheeks had begun to redden under the stares of his fellow-travellers--is +allowed to depart with his half-worn tooth-brush, while the discomfited +douanier gives a mighty shrug at the strange habits of those "whose +insular position excludes them from the march of continental ideas." + +My real troubles commenced at Susa. The officials there, more honest and +more obtuse than the Frenchmen, declined at one and the same time to be +bribed, or to pass my baggage until a satisfactory account of it was +rendered; and, as they refused to believe the true explanation, I was +puzzled what to say, but was presently relieved from the dilemma by one of +the men, who was cleverer than his fellows, suggesting that I was going to +Turin to exhibit in the streets; that I mounted the ladder and balanced +myself on the end of it, then lighted my pipe and put the point of the +baton in its bowl, and caused the baton to gyrate around my head. The rope +was to keep back the spectators, and an Englishman in my company was the +agent. "Monsieur is acrobat then?" "Yes, certainly." "Pass the effects of +Monsieur the acrobat!" + +These ladders were the source of endless trouble. Let us pass over the +doubts of the guardians of the Hotel d'Europe (Trombetta), whether a +person in the possession of such questionable articles should be admitted +to their very respectable house, and get to Chatillon, at the entrance of +the Val Tournanche. A mule was chartered to carry them, and, as they were +too long to sling across its back, they were arranged lengthways, and one +end projected over the animal's head, while the other extended beyond its +tail. A mule when going up or down hill always moves with a jerky action, +and in consequence of this the ladders hit my mule severe blows between +its ears and in its flanks. The beast, not knowing what strange creature +it had on its back, naturally tossed its head and threw out its legs, and +this, of course, only made the blows that it received more severe. At last +it ran away, and would have perished by rolling down a precipice, if the +men had not caught hold of its tail. The end of the matter was that a man +had to follow the mule, holding the end of the ladders, which obliged him +to move his arms up and down incessantly, and to bow to the hind quarters +of the animal in a way that afforded more amusement to his comrades than +it did to him. + +I was once more _en route_ for the Matterhorn, for I had heard in the +spring of 1863 the cause of the failure of Professor Tyndall, and learnt +that the case was not so hopeless as it appeared to be at one time. I +found that he arrived as far only as the northern end of "the shoulder." +The point at which he says,(66) they "sat down with broken hopes, the +summit within a stone's throw of us, but still defying us," was not the +notch or cleft at D (which is literally within a stone's throw of the +summit), but another and more formidable cleft that intervenes between the +northern end of "the shoulder" and the commencement of the final peak. It +is marked E on the outline which faces p. 44. Carrel and all the men who +had been with me knew of the existence of this cleft, and of the pinnacle +which rose between it and the final peak;(67) and we had frequently talked +about the best manner of passing the place. On this we disagreed, but we +were both of opinion that when we got to "the shoulder," it would be +necessary to bear down gradually to the right or to the left, to avoid +coming to the top of the notch. Tyndall's party, after arriving at "the +shoulder," was led by his guides along the crest of the ridge, and, +consequently, when they got to its northern end, they came to the top of +the notch, instead of the bottom--to the dismay of all but the Carrels. Dr. +Tyndall's words are, "The ridge was here split by a deep cleft which +separated it from the final precipice, and the case became more hopeless +as we came more near." The Professor adds, "The mountain is 14,800 feet +high, and 14,600 feet had been accomplished." He greatly deceived himself; +by the barometric measurements of Signor Giordano the notch is no less +than 800 feet below the summit. The guide Walter (Dr. Tyndall says) said +it was impossible to proceed, and the Carrels, appealed to for their +opinion (this is their own account), gave as an answer, "We are porters; +ask your guides." Bennen, thus left to himself, "was finally forced to +accept defeat." Tyndall had nevertheless accomplished an advance of about +400 feet over one of the most difficult parts of the mountain. + +There are material discrepancies between the published narratives of +Professor Tyndall(68) and the verbal accounts of the Carrels. The former +says the men had to be "urged on," that "they pronounced flatly against +the final precipice," "they yielded so utterly," and that Bennen said, in +answer to a final appeal made to him, "'What could I do, sir? not one of +them would accompany me.' It was the accurate truth." Jean-Antoine Carrel +says that when Professor Tyndall gave the order to turn _he_ would have +advanced to examine the route, as he did not think that farther progress +was impossible, but he was stopped by the Professor, and was naturally +obliged to follow the others.(69) These disagreements may well be left to +be settled by those who are concerned. Tyndall, Walter, and Bennen, now +disappear from this history.(70) + + [Illustration: An arch of the aqueduct in the Val Tournanche] + +The Val Tournanche is one of the most charming valleys in the Italian +Alps; it is a paradise to an artist, and if the space at my command were +greater, I would willingly linger over its groves of chestnuts, its bright +trickling rills and its roaring torrents, its upland unsuspected valleys +and its noble cliffs. The path rises steeply from Chatillon, but it is +well shaded, and the heat of the summer sun is tempered by cool air and +spray which comes off the ice-cold streams.(71) One sees from the path, at +several places on the right bank of the valley, groups of arches which +have been built high up against the faces of the cliffs. Guide-books +repeat--on whose authority I know not--that they are the remains of a Roman +aqueduct. They have the Roman boldness of conception, but the work has not +the usual Roman solidity. The arches have always seemed to me to be the +remains of an _unfinished_ work, and I learn from Jean-Antoine Carrel that +there are other groups of arches, which are not seen from the path, all +having the same appearance. It may be questioned whether those seen near +the village of Antey are Roman. Some of them are semicircular, whilst +others are distinctly pointed. Here is one of the latter, which might pass +for fourteenth-century work, or later;--a two-centred arch, with mean +voussoirs, and the masonry in rough courses. These arches are well worth +the attention of an archaeologist, but some difficulty will be found in +approaching them closely. + +We sauntered up the valley, and got to Breil when all were asleep. A halo +round the moon promised watery weather, and we were not disappointed, for, +on the next day (August 1), rain fell heavily, and when the clouds lifted +for a time, we saw that new snow lay thickly over everything higher than +9000 feet. J.-A. Carrel was ready and waiting (as I had determined to give +the bold cragsman another chance); and he did not need to say that the +Matterhorn would be impracticable for several days after all this new +snow, even if the weather were to arrange itself at once. Our first day +together was accordingly spent upon a neighbouring summit, the Cimes +Blanches; a degraded mountain, well known for its fine panoramic view. It +was little that we saw; for, in every direction except to the south, +writhing masses of heavy clouds obscured everything; and to the south our +view was intercepted by a peak higher than the Cimes Blanches, named the +Grand Tournalin.(72) But we got some innocent pleasure out of watching the +gambolings of a number of goats, who became fast friends after we had +given them some salt; in fact, too fast, and caused us no little annoyance +when we were descending. "Carrel," I said, as a number of stones whizzed +by which they had dislodged, "this must be put a stop to." "Diable!" he +grunted, "it is very well to talk, but how will you do it?" I said that I +would try; and, sitting down, poured a little brandy into the hollow of my +hand, and allured the nearest goat with deceitful gestures. It was one who +had gobbled up the paper in which the salt had been carried--an animal of +enterprising character--and it advanced fearlessly and licked up the +brandy. I shall not easily forget its surprise. It stopped short, and +coughed, and looked at me as much as to say, "Oh, you cheat!" and spat and +ran away; stopping now and then to cough and spit again. We were not +troubled any more by those goats. + +More snow fell during the night, and our attempt on the Matterhorn was +postponed indefinitely. As there was nothing to be done at Breil, I +determined to make the tour of the mountain, and commenced by inventing a +pass from Breil to Zermatt,(73) in place of the hackneyed Theodule. Any +one who looks at the map will see that the latter pass makes a +considerable detour to the east, and, apparently, goes out of the way. I +thought that it was possible to strike out a shorter route, both in +distance and in time, and we set out on the 3rd of August, to carry out +the idea. We followed the Theodule path for some time, but quitted it when +it bore away to the east, and kept straight on until we struck the moraine +of the Mont Cervin glacier. Our track still continued in a straight line +up the centre of the glacier to the foot of a tooth of rock, which juts +prominently out of the ridge (Furggengrat) connecting the Matterhorn with +the Theodulehorn. The head of the glacier was connected with this little +peak by a steep bank of snow; but we were able to go straight up, and +struck the Col at its lowest point, a little to the right (that is to say, +to the east) of the above-mentioned peak. On the north there was a +snow-slope corresponding to that on the other side. Half-an-hour took us +to its base. We then bore away over the nearly level plateau of the +Furggengletscher, making a straight track to the Hoernli, from whence we +descended to Zermatt by one of the well-known paths. This pass has been +dubbed the Breuiljoch by the Swiss surveyors. It is a few feet higher than +the Theodule, and it may be recommended to those who are familiar with +that pass, as it gives equally fine views, and is accessible at all times. +But it will never be frequented like the Theodule, as the snow-slope at +its summit, at certain times, will require the use of the axe. It took us +six hours and a quarter to go from one place to the other, which was an +hour longer than we would have occupied by the Theodule, although the +distance in miles is less. + +It is stated in one of the MS. note-books of the late Principal J. D. +Forbes, that this depression, now called the Breuiljoch, was formerly +_the_ pass between the Val Tournanche and Zermatt, and that it was +abandoned for the Theodule in consequence of changes in the glaciers.(74) +The authority for the statement was not given. I presume it was from local +tradition, but I readily credit it; for, before the time that the glaciers +had shrunk to so great an extent, the steep snow-slopes above mentioned, +in all probability, did not exist; and, most likely, the glaciers led by +very gentle gradients up to the summit; in which case the route would have +formed the natural highway between the two places. It is far from +impossible, if the glaciers continue to diminish at their present rapid +rate,(75) that the Theodule itself, the easiest and the most frequented of +all the higher Alpine passes, may, in the course of a few years, become +somewhat difficult; and if this should be the case, the prosperity of +Zermatt will probably suffer.(76) + +Carrel and I wandered out again in the afternoon, and went, first of all, +to a favourite spot with tourists near the end of the Gorner glacier (or, +properly speaking, the Boden glacier), to a little verdant flat--studded +with _Euphrasia officinalis_--the delight of swarms of bees, who gather +there the honey which afterwards appears at the _table d'hote_. + +[Illustration: WATER-WORN ROCKS IN THE GORGE BELOW THE GORNER GLACIER.] + +On our right the glacier-torrent thundered down the valley through a gorge +with precipitous sides, not easily approached; for the turf at the top was +slippery, and the rocks had everywhere been rounded by the glacier,--which +formerly extended far away. This gorge seems to have been made chiefly by +the torrent, and to have been excavated subsequently to the retreat of the +glacier. It seems so because not merely upon its walls are there the marks +of running water, but even upon the rounded rocks at the top of its walls, +at a height of seventy or eighty feet above the present level of the +torrent, there are some of those queer concavities which rapid streams +alone are known to produce on rocks. + + [Illustration: STRIATIONS PRODUCED BY GLACIER-ACTION (AT GRINDELWALD).] + +A little bridge, apparently frail, spans the torrent just above the +entrance to this gorge, and from it one perceives, being fashioned in the +rocks below, concavities similar to those to which reference has just been +made. The torrent is seen hurrying forwards. Not everywhere. In some +places the water strikes projecting angles, and, thrown back by them, +remains almost stationary, eddying round and round: in others, +obstructions fling it up in fountains, which play perpetually on the +_under_ surfaces of overhanging masses; and sometimes do so in such a way +that the water not only works upon the under surfaces, but round the +corner; that is to say, upon the surfaces which are _not_ opposed to the +general direction of the current. In all cases _concavities_ are being +produced. Projecting angles are rounded, it is true, and are more or less +convex, but they are overlooked on account of the prevalence of concave +forms. + +Cause and effect help each other here. The inequalities of the torrent bed +and walls cause its eddyings, and the eddies fashion the concavities. The +more profound the latter become, the more disturbance is caused in the +water. The destruction of the rocks proceeds at an ever-increasing rate; +for the larger the amount of surface that is exposed, the greater are the +opportunities for the assaults of heat and cold. + +When water is in the form of glacier it has not the power of making +concavities, such as these, in rocks, and of working upon surfaces which +are not opposed to the direction of the current. Its nature is changed; it +operates in a different way, and it leaves marks which are readily +distinguished from those produced by torrent-action. + +The prevailing forms which result from glacier-action are more or less +_convex_. Ultimately, all angles and almost all curves are obliterated, +and large areas of flat surfaces are produced. This perfection of abrasion +is rarely found, except in such localities as have sustained a grinding +much more severe than that which has occurred in the Alps; and, generally +speaking, the dictum of the veteran geologist Studer, quoted below, is +undoubtedly true.(77) Not merely can the operations of extinct glaciers be +traced in detail by means of the bosses of rock popularly termed _roches +moutonnees_, but their effects in the aggregate, on a range of mountains +or an entire country, can be recognised sometimes at a distance of fifteen +or twenty miles from the incessant repetition of these convex forms. + + + +We finished up the 3d of August with a walk over the Findelen glacier, and +returned to Zermatt at a later hour than we intended, both very sleepy. +This is noteworthy only on account of that which followed. We had to cross +the Col de Valpelline on the next day, and an early start was desirable. +Monsieur Seiler, excellent man, knowing this, called us himself, and when +he came to my door, I answered, "All right, Seiler, I will get up," and +immediately turned over to the other side, saying to myself, "First of +all, ten minutes more sleep." But Seiler waited and listened, and, +suspecting the case, knocked again. "Herr Whymper, have you got a light?" +Without thinking what the consequences might be, I answered, "No," and +then the worthy man actually forced the lock off his own door to give me +one. By similar and equally friendly and disinterested acts, Monsieur +Seiler has acquired his enviable reputation. + +At 4 A.M. we left his Monte Rosa Hotel, and were soon pushing our way +through the thickets of grey alder that skirt the path up the right bank +of the exquisite little valley which leads to the Z'Muttgletscher. + +Nothing can well seem more inaccessible than the Matterhorn upon this +side; and even in cold blood one holds the breath when looking at its +stupendous cliffs. There are but few equal to them in size in the Alps, +and there are none which can more truly be termed _precipices_. Greatest +of them all is the immense north cliff,--that which bends over towards the +Z'Muttgletscher. Stones which drop from the top of that amazing wall fall +for about 1500 feet before they touch anything; and those which roll down +from above, and bound over it, fall to a much greater depth, and leap +well-nigh 1000 feet beyond its base. This side of the mountain has always +seemed sombre--sad--terrible; it is painfully suggestive of decay, ruin, and +death; and it is now, alas! more than terrible by its associations. + +"There is no aspect of destruction about the Matterhorn cliffs," says +Professor Ruskin. Granted;--when they are seen from afar. But approach, and +sit down by the side of the Z'Muttgletscher, and you will hear that their +piecemeal destruction is proceeding ceaselessly--incessantly. You will +_hear_, but, probably, you will not _see_; for even when the descending +masses thunder as loudly as heavy guns, and the echoes roll back from the +Ebihorn opposite, they will still be as pin-points against this grand old +face, so vast is its scale! + +If you would see the "aspects of destruction," you must come still closer, +and climb its cliffs and ridges, or mount to the plateau of the +Matterhorngletscher, which is cut up and ploughed up by these missiles, +and strewn on its surface with their smaller fragments; the larger masses, +falling with tremendous velocity, plunge into the snow and are lost to +sight. + +The Matterhorngletscher, too, sends down _its_ avalanches, as if in +rivalry with the rocks behind. Round the whole of its northern side it +does not terminate in the usual manner by gentle slopes, but comes to a +sudden end at the top of the steep rocks which lie betwixt it and the +Z'Muttgletscher; and seldom does an hour pass without a huge slice +breaking away and falling with dreadful uproar on to the slopes below, +where it is re-compacted. + +The desolate, outside pines of the Z'Mutt forests, stripped of their bark, +and blanched by the weather, are a fit foreground to a scene that can +hardly be surpassed in solemn grandeur. It is a subject worthy of the +pencil of a great painter, and one which would tax the powers of the very +greatest. + +Higher up the glacier the mountain appeared less savage although not less +inaccessible; and, about three hours later, when we arrived at the island +of rock, called the Stockje (which marks the end of the Z'Muttgletscher +proper, and which separates its higher feeder, the Stockgletscher, from +its lower and greater one, the Tiefenmatten), Carrel himself, one of the +least demonstrative of men, could not refrain from expressing wonder at +the steepness of its faces, and at the audacity that had prompted us to +camp upon the south-west ridge; the profile of which is seen very well +from the Stockje.(78) Carrel then saw the north and north-west sides of +the mountain for the first time, and was more firmly persuaded than ever +that an ascent was possible _only_ from the direction of Breil. + +Three years afterwards I was traversing the same spot with the guide Franz +Biener, when all at once a puff of wind brought to us a very bad smell; +and, on looking about, we discovered a dead chamois half-way up the +southern cliffs of the Stockje. We clambered up, and found that it had +been killed by a most uncommon and extraordinary accident. It had slipped +on the upper rocks, had rolled over and over down a slope of debris, +without being able to regain its feet, had fallen over a little patch of +rocks that projected through the debris, and had caught the points of both +horns on a tiny ledge, not an inch broad. It had just been able to touch +the debris, where it led away down from the rocks, and had pawed and +scratched until it could no longer touch. It had evidently been starved to +death, and we found the poor beast almost swinging in the air, with its +head thrown back and tongue protruding, looking to the sky as if imploring +help. + +We had no such excitement as this in 1863, and crossed this easy pass to +the chalets of Prerayen in a very leisurely fashion. From the summit to +Prerayen let us descend in one step. The way has been described before; +and those who wish for information about it should consult the description +of Mr. Jacomb, the discoverer of the pass. Nor need we stop at Prerayen, +except to remark that the owner of the chalets (who is usually taken for a +common herdsman) must not be judged by appearances. He is a man of +substance; he has many flocks and herds; and although, when approached +politely, is courteous, he can (and probably will) act as the _master_ of +Prerayen, if his position is _not_ recognised, and with all the importance +of a man who pays taxes to the extent of 500 francs per annum to his +government. + + [Illustration: CHAMOIS IN DIFFICULTIES.] + +The hill-tops were clouded when we rose from our hay on the 5th of August. +We decided not to continue the tour of our mountain immediately, and +returned over our track of the preceding day to the highest chalet on the +left bank of the valley, with the intention of attacking the Dent d'Erin +on the next morning. We were interested in this summit, more on account of +the excellent view which it commanded of the south-west ridge and the +terminal peak of the Matterhorn, than from any other reason. + +The Dent d'Erin had not been ascended at this time, and we had diverged +from our route on the 4th, and had scrambled some distance up the base of +Mont Brule, to see how far its south-western slopes were assailable. We +were divided in opinion as to the best way of approaching the peak. +Carrel, true to his habit of sticking to rocks in preference to ice, +counselled ascending by the long buttress of the Tete de Bella Cia (which +descends towards the west, and forms the southern boundary of the last +glacier that falls into the Glacier de Zardesan), and thence traversing +the heads of all the tributaries of the Zardesan to the western and rocky +ridge of the Dent. I, on the other hand, proposed to follow the Glacier de +Zardesan itself throughout its entire length, and from the plateau at its +head (where my proposed route would cross Carrel's) to make directly +towards the summit, up the snow-covered glacier slope, instead of by the +western ridge. The hunchback, who was accompanying us on these excursions, +declared in favour of Carrel's route, and it was accordingly adopted. + +The first part of the programme was successfully executed; and at 10.30 +A.M. on the 6th of August, we were sitting astride the western ridge, at a +height of about 12,500 feet, looking down upon the Tiefenmatten glacier. +To all appearance another hour would place us on the summit; but in +another hour we found that we were not destined to succeed. The ridge +(like all of the principal rocky ridges of the great peaks upon which I +have stood) had been completely shattered by frost, and was nothing more +than a heap of piled up fragments. It was always narrow, and where it was +narrowest it was also the most unstable and the most difficult. On neither +side could we ascend it by keeping a little below its crest,--on the side +of the Tiefenmatten because it was too steep, and on both sides because +the dislodgment of a single block would have disturbed the equilibrium of +all those which were above. Forced, therefore, to keep to the very crest +of the ridge, and unable to deviate a single step either to the right or +to the left, we were compelled to trust ourselves upon unsteady masses, +which trembled under our tread, which sometimes settled down, grating in a +hollow and ominous manner, and which seemed as if a little shake would +send the whole roaring down in one awful avalanche. + +I followed my leader, who said not a word, and did not rebel until we came +to a place where a block had to be surmounted which lay poised across the +ridge. Carrel could not climb it without assistance, or advance beyond it +until I joined him above; and as he stepped off my back on to it, I felt +it quiver and bear down upon me. I doubted the possibility of another man +standing upon it without bringing it down. Then I rebelled. There was no +honour to be gained by persevering, or dishonour in turning from a place +which was dangerous on account of its excessive difficulty. So we returned +to Prerayen, for there was too little time to allow us to re-ascend by the +other route, which was subsequently shown to be the right way up the +mountain. + +Four days afterwards a party of Englishmen (including my friends, W. E. +Hall, Craufurd Grove, and Reginald Macdonald), arrived in the Valpelline, +and (unaware of our attempt) on the 12th, under the skilful guidance of +Melchior Anderegg, made the first ascent of the Dent d'Erin by the route +which I had proposed. This is the only mountain which I have essayed to +ascend, that has not, sooner or later, fallen to me. Our failure was +mortifying, yet I am satisfied that we did wisely in returning, and that +if we had persevered, by Carrel's route, another Alpine accident would +have been recorded. Other routes have been since discovered up the Dent +d'Erin. The ascent ranks amongst the more difficult ones which have been +made in the Alps.(79) + +On the 7th of August we crossed the Va Cornere pass,(80) and had a good +look at the mountain named the Grand Tournalin as we descended the Val de +Chignana. This mountain was seen from so many points, and was so much +higher than any peak in its immediate neighbourhood, that it was bound to +give a very fine view; and (as the weather continued unfavourable for the +Matterhorn) I arranged with Carrel to ascend it the next day, and +despatched him direct to the village of Val Tournanche to make the +necessary preparations, whilst I, with Meynet, made a short cut to Breil, +at the back of Mont Panquero, by a little pass locally known as the Col de +Fenetre. I rejoined Carrel the same evening at Val Tournanche, and we +started from that place at a little before 5 A.M. on the 8th, to attack +the Tournalin. + +Meynet was left behind for that day, and most unwillingly did the +hunchback part from us, and begged hard to be allowed to come. "Pay me +nothing, only let me go with you;" "I shall want but a little bread and +cheese, and of that I won't eat much;" "I would much rather go with you +than carry things down the valley." Such were his arguments, and I was +really sorry that the rapidity of our movements obliged us to desert the +good little man. + +Carrel led over the meadows on the south and east of the bluff upon which +the village of Val Tournanche is built, and then by a zig-zag path through +a long and steep forest, making many short cuts, which showed he had a +thorough knowledge of the ground. After we came again into daylight, our +route took us up one of those little, concealed, lateral valleys which are +so numerous on the slopes bounding the Val Tournanche. + +This valley, the Combe de Ceneil, has a general easterly trend, and +contains but one small cluster of houses (Ceneil). The Tournalin is +situated at the head of the Combe, and nearly due east of the village of +Val Tournanche, but from that place no part of the mountain is visible. +After Ceneil is passed it comes into view, rising above a cirque of cliffs +(streaked by several fine waterfalls), at the end of the Combe. To avoid +these cliffs the path bends somewhat to the south, keeping throughout to +the left bank of the valley, and at about 3500 feet above Val Tournanche, +and 1500 feet above Ceneil and a mile or so to its east, arrives at the +base of some moraines, which are remarkably large considering the +dimensions of the glaciers which formed them. The ranges upon the western +side of the Val Tournanche are seen to great advantage from this spot; and +here the path ends and the way steepens. + +When we arrived at these moraines, we had a choice of two routes. One, +continuing to the east, over the moraines themselves, the debris above +them, and a large snow-bed still higher up, to a kind of _col_ or +depression to the _south_ of the peak, from whence an easy ridge led +towards the summit. The other, over a shrunken glacier on our north-east +(now, perhaps, not in existence), which led to a well-marked _col_ on the +_north_ of the peak, from whence a less easy ridge rose directly to the +highest point. We followed the first named of these routes, and in little +more than half-an-hour stood upon the Col, which commanded a most glorious +view of the southern side of Monte Rosa, and of the ranges to its east, +and to the east of the Val d'Ayas. + +[Illustration: "THEY SCATTERED IN A PANIC WHEN SALUTED BY THE CRIES OF MY + EXCITED COMRADE."] + +Whilst we were resting at this point, a large party of vagrant chamois +arrived on the summit of the mountain from the northern side, some of +whom--by their statuesque position--seemed to appreciate the grand panorama +by which they were surrounded, while others amused themselves, like +two-legged tourists, in rolling stones over the cliffs. The clatter of +these falling fragments made us look up. The chamois were so numerous that +we could not count them, and clustered around the summit, totally unaware +of our presence. They scattered in a panic, as if a shell had burst +amongst them, when saluted by the cries of my excited comrade; and plunged +wildly down in several directions, with unfaltering and unerring bounds, +with such speed and with such grace that we were filled with admiration +and respect for their mountaineering abilities. + +The ridge that led from the Col towards the summit was singularly easy, +although well broken up by frost, and Carrel thought that it would not be +difficult to arrange a path for mules out of the shattered blocks; but +when we arrived on the summit we found ourselves separated from the very +highest point by a cleft which had been concealed up to that time: its +southern side was nearly perpendicular, but it was only fourteen or +fifteen feet deep. Carrel lowered me down, and afterwards descended on to +the head of my axe, and subsequently on to my shoulders, with a cleverness +which was almost as far removed from my awkwardness as his own efforts +were from those of the chamois. A few easy steps then placed us on the +highest point. It had not been ascended before, and we commemorated the +event by building a huge cairn, which was seen for many a mile, and would +have lasted for many a year, had it not been thrown down by the orders of +Canon Carrel, on account of its interrupting the sweep of a camera which +he took to the lower summit in 1868, in order to photograph the panorama. +According to that well-known mountaineer the summit of the Grand Tournalin +is 6100 feet above the village of Val Tournanche, and 11,155 feet above +the sea. Its ascent (including halts) occupied us only four hours. + + [Illustration: "CARREL LOWERED ME DOWN."] + +I recommend any person who has a day to spare in the Val Tournanche to +ascend the Tournalin. It should be remembered, however (if its ascent is +made for the sake of the view), that these southern Pennine Alps seldom +remain unclouded after mid-day, and, indeed, frequently not later than 10 +or 11 A.M. Towards sunset the equilibrium of the atmosphere is restored, +and the clouds very commonly disappear. + +I advise the ascent of this mountain not on account of its height, or from +its accessibility or inaccessibility, but simply for the wide and splendid +view which may be seen from its summit. Its position is superb, and the +list of the peaks which can be seen from it includes almost the whole of +the principal mountains of the Cottian, Dauphine, Graian, Pennine, and +Oberland groups. The view has, in the highest perfection, those elements +of picturesqueness which are wanting in the purely panoramic views of +higher summits. There are three principal sections, each with a central or +dominating point, to which the eye is naturally drawn. All three alike are +pictures in themselves; yet all are dissimilar. In the south, softened by +the vapours of the Val d'Aoste, extends the long line of the Graians, with +mountain after mountain 12,000 feet and upwards in height. It is not upon +these, noble as some of them are, that the eye will rest, but upon the +Viso, far off in the background. In the west and towards the north the +range of Mont Blanc, and some of the greatest of the Central Pennine Alps +(including the Grand Combin and the Dent Blanche) form the background, but +they are overpowered by the grandeur of the ridges which culminate in the +Matterhorn. Nor in the east and north, where pleasant grassy slopes lead +downwards to the Val d'Ayas, nor upon the glaciers and snow-fields above +them, nor upon the Oberland in the background, will the eye long linger, +when immediately in front, several miles away, but seeming close at hand, +thrown out by the pure azure sky, there are the glittering crests of Monte +Rosa. + + [Illustration: THE LATE CANON CARREL, OF AOSTA.] + +Those who would, but cannot, stand upon the highest Alps, may console +themselves with the knowledge that they do not usually yield the views +that make the strongest and most permanent impressions. Marvellous some of +the panoramas seen from the greatest peaks undoubtedly are; but they are +necessarily without those isolated and central points which are so +valuable pictorially. The eye roams over a multitude of objects (each, +perhaps, grand individually), and, distracted by an embarrassment of +riches, wanders from one to another, erasing by the contemplation of the +next the effect that was produced by the last; and when those happy +moments are over, which always fly with too great rapidity, the summit is +left with an impression that is seldom durable, because it is usually +vague. + +No views create such lasting impressions as those which are seen but for a +moment, when a veil of mist is rent in twain, and a single spire or dome +is disclosed. The peaks which are seen at these moments are not, perhaps, +the greatest or the noblest, but the recollection of them outlives the +memory of any panoramic view, because the picture, photographed by the +eye, has time to dry, instead of being blurred, while yet wet, by contact +with other impressions. The reverse is the case with the bird's-eye +panoramic views from the great peaks, which sometimes embrace a hundred +miles in nearly every direction. The eye is confounded by the crowd of +details, and is unable to distinguish the relative importance of the +objects which are seen. It is almost as difficult to form a just estimate +(with the eye) of the respective heights of a number of peaks from a very +high summit, as it is from the bottom of a valley. I think that the +grandest and the most satisfactory standpoints for viewing mountain +scenery are those which are sufficiently elevated to give a feeling of +depth, as well as of height, which are lofty enough to exhibit wide and +varied views, but not so high as to sink everything to the level of the +spectator. The view from the Grand Tournalin is a favourable example of +this class of panoramic views. + +We descended from the summit by the northern route, and found it tolerably +stiff clambering as far as the Col. Thence, down the glacier, the way was +straightforward, and we joined the route taken on the ascent at the foot +of the ridge leading towards the east. In the evening we returned to +Breil. + +There is an abrupt rise in the valley about two miles to the north of the +village of Val Tournanche, and just above this step the torrent has eaten +its way into its bed and formed an extraordinary chasm, which has long +been known by the name Gouffre des Busserailles. We lingered about this +spot to listen to the thunder of the concealed water, and to watch its +tumultuous boiling as it issued from the gloomy cleft, but our efforts to +peer into the mysteries of the place were baffled. In November 1865, the +intrepid Carrel induced two trusty comrades--the Maquignaz's of Val +Tournanche--to lower him by a rope into the chasm and over the cataract. +The feat required iron nerves, and muscles and sinews of no ordinary kind; +and its performance alone stamps Carrel as a man of dauntless courage. One +of the Maquignaz's subsequently descended in the same way, and these two +men were so astonished at what they saw, that they forthwith set to work +with hammer and chisel to make a way into this romantic gulf. In a few +days they constructed a rough but convenient plank gallery into the centre +of the _gouffre_, along its walls; and, on payment of a toll of half a +franc, any one can now enter the Gouffre des Busserailles. + +I cannot, without a couple of sections and a plan, give an exact idea to +the reader of this remarkable place. It corresponds in some of its +features to the gorge figured upon page 96, but it exhibits in a much more +notable manner the characteristic action and extraordinary power of +running water. The length of the chasm or _gouffre_ is about 320 feet, and +from the top of its walls to the surface of the water is about 110 feet. +At no part can the entire length or depth be seen at a glance; for, +although the width at some places is 15 feet or more, the view is limited +by the sinuosities of the walls. These are everywhere polished to a +smooth, vitreous-in-appearance surface. In some places the torrent has +wormed into the rock, and has left natural bridges. The most extraordinary +features of the Gouffre des Busserailles, however, are the caverns (or +_marmites_ as they are termed), which the water has hollowed out of the +heart of the rock. Carrel's plank path leads into one of the greatest,--a +grotto that is about 28 feet across at its largest diameter, and 15 or 16 +feet high; roofed above by the living rock, and with the torrent roaring +50 feet or thereabouts below, at the bottom of a fissure. This cavern is +lighted by candles, and talking in it can only be managed by signs. + +I visited the interior of the _gouffre_ in 1869, and my wonder at its +caverns was increased by observing the hardness of the hornblende out of +which they have been hollowed. Carrel chiselled off a large piece, which +is now lying before me. It has a highly polished, glassy surface, and +might be mistaken, for a moment, for ice-polished rock. But the water has +found out the atoms which were least hard, and it is dotted all over by +minute depressions, much as the face of one is who has suffered from +smallpox. The edges of these little hollows are _rounded_, and the whole +surfaces of the depressions are polished nearly, or quite, as highly as +the general surface of the fragment. The water has eaten more deeply into +some veins of steatite than in other places, and the presence of the +steatite may possibly have had something to do with the formation of the +_gouffre_. + +I arrived at Breil again after an absence of six days, well satisfied with +my tour of the Matterhorn, which had been rendered very pleasant by the +willingness of my guides, and by the kindliness of the natives. Still, it +must be admitted that the inhabitants of the Val Tournanche are behind the +times. Their paths are as bad as, or worse than, they were in the time of +De Saussure, and their inns are much inferior to those on the Swiss side. +If it were otherwise there would be nothing to prevent the valley becoming +one of the most popular and frequented of all the valleys in the Alps. As +it is, tourists who enter it seem to think only about how soon they can +get out of it, and hence it is much less known than it deserves to be on +account of its natural attractions. + +I believe that the great hindrance to the improvement of the paths in the +Italian valleys generally is the wide-spread impression that the +innkeepers would alone directly benefit by any amelioration of their +condition. To a certain extent this view is correct; but inasmuch as the +prosperity of the natives is connected with that of the innkeepers, the +interests of both are pretty nearly identical. Until their paths are +rendered less rough and swampy, I think the Italians must submit to see +the golden harvest principally reaped in Switzerland and Savoy. At the +same time, let the innkeepers look to the commissariat. Their supplies are +not unfrequently deficient in quantity, and, according to my experience, +very often deplorable in quality. + +I will not venture to criticise in detail the dishes which are brought to +table, since I am profoundly ignorant of their constitution. It is +commonly said amongst Alpine tourists that goat flesh represents mutton, +and mule does service for beef and chamois. I reserve my own opinion upon +this point until it has been shown what becomes of all the dead mules. But +I may say, I hope, without wounding the susceptibilities of my +acquaintances among the Italian innkeepers, that it would tend to smoothen +their intercourse with their guests if requests for solid food were less +frequently regarded as criminal. The deprecating airs with which inquiries +for really substantial food are received always remind me of a Dauphine +innkeeper, who remarked that he had heard a good many tourists travel in +Switzerland. "Yes," I answered, "there are a good many." "How many?" +"Well," I said, "I have seen a hundred or more sit down at a table +d'hote." He lifted up his hands--"Why," said he, "they would want meat +every day!" "Yes, that is not improbable." "In that case," he replied, "_I +think we are better without them_." + + + + + + CHAPTER VI. + + + OUR SIXTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN.(81) + + + "But mighty Jove cuts short, with just disdain, + The long, long views of poor, designing man." + HOMER. + + +Carrel had _carte blanche_ in the matter of guides, and his choice fell +upon his relative Caesar, Luc Meynet, and two others whose names I do not +know. These men were now brought together, and our preparations were +completed, as the weather was clearing up. + +We rested on Sunday, August 9, eagerly watching the lessening of the mists +around the great peak, and started just before dawn upon the 10th, on a +still and cloudless morning, which seemed to promise a happy termination +to our enterprise. + +By going always, though gently, we arrived upon the Col du Lion before +nine o'clock. Changes were apparent. Familiar ledges had vanished; the +platform, whereupon my tent had stood, looked very forlorn, its stones had +been scattered by wind and frost, and had half disappeared: and the summit +of the Col itself, which in 1862 had always been respectably broad, and +covered by snow, was now sharper than the ridge of any church roof, and +was hard ice. Already we had found that the bad weather of the past week +had done its work. The rocks for several hundred feet below the Col were +varnished with ice. Loose, incoherent snow covered the older and harder +beds below, and we nearly lost our leader through its treacherousness. He +stepped on some snow which seemed firm, and raised his axe to deliver a +swinging blow, but, just as it was highest, the crust of the slope upon +which he stood broke away, and poured down in serpentine streams, leaving +long, bare strips, which glittered in the sun, for they were glassy ice. +Carrel, with admirable readiness, flung himself back on to the rock off +which he had stepped, and was at once secured. He simply remarked, "It is +time we were tied up," and, after we had been tied up, he went to work +again as if nothing had happened.(82) + +We had abundant illustrations during the next two hours of the value of a +rope to climbers. We were tied up rather widely apart, and advanced, +generally, in pairs. Carrel, who led, was followed closely by another man, +who lent him a shoulder or placed an axe-head under his feet, when there +was need; and when this couple were well placed the second pair advanced, +in similar fashion,--the rope being drawn in by those above, and paid out +gradually by those below. The leading men again advanced, or the third +pair, and so on. This manner of progression was slow, but sure. One man +only moved at a time, and if he slipped (and we frequently did slip) he +could slide scarcely a foot without being checked by the others. The +certainty and safety of the method gave confidence to the one who was +moving, and not only nerved him to put out his powers to the utmost, but +sustained nerve in really difficult situations. For these rocks (which, it +has been already said, were easy enough under ordinary circumstances) were +now difficult in a high degree. The snow-water which had trickled down for +many days past in little streams, had taken, naturally, the very route by +which we wished to ascend; and, refrozen in the night, had glazed the +slabs over which we had to pass,--sometimes with a fine film of ice as thin +as a sheet of paper, and sometimes so thickly that we could almost cut +footsteps in it. The weather was superb, the men made light of the toil, +and shouted to rouse the echoes from the Dent d'Herens. + +We went on gaily, passed the second tent platform, the Chimney, and the +other well-remembered points, and reckoned, confidently, on sleeping that +night upon the top of "the shoulder;" but, before we had well arrived at +the foot of the Great Tower, a sudden rush of cold air warned us to look +out. + +It was difficult to say where this air came from; it did not blow as a +wind, but descended rather as the water in a shower-bath! All was tranquil +again; the atmosphere _showed_ no signs of disturbance; there was a dead +calm, and not a speck of cloud to be seen anywhere. But we did not remain +very long in this state. The cold air came again, and this time it was +difficult to say where it did _not_ come from. We jammed down our hats as +it beat against the ridge, and screamed amongst the crags. Before we had +got to the foot of the Tower, mists had been formed above and below. They +appeared at first in small, isolated patches (in several places at the +same time), which danced and jerked and were torn into shreds by the wind, +but grew larger under the process. They were united together, and rent +again,--showing us the blue sky for a moment, and blotting it out the next; +and augmented incessantly, until the whole heavens were filled with +whirling, boiling clouds. Before we could take off our packs, and get +under any kind of shelter, a hurricane of snow burst upon us from the +east. It fell very heavily, and in a few minutes the ridge was covered by +it. "What shall we do?" I shouted to Carrel. "Monsieur," said he, "the +wind is bad; the weather has changed; we are heavily laden. Here is a fine +_gite_; let us stop! If we go on we shall be half-frozen. That is _my_ +opinion." No one differed from him; so we fell to work to make a place for +the tent, and in a couple of hours completed the platform which we had +commenced in 1862. The clouds had blackened during that time, and we had +hardly finished our task before a thunderstorm broke upon us with +appalling fury. Forked lightning shot out at the turrets above, and at the +crags below. It was so close that we quailed at its darts. It seemed to +scorch us,--we were in the very focus of the storm. The thunder was +simultaneous with the flashes; short and sharp, and more like the noise of +a door that is violently slammed, multiplied a thousandfold, than any +noise to which I can compare it. + +When I say that the thunder was _simultaneous_ with the lightning, I speak +as an inexact person. My meaning is that the time which elapsed between +seeing the flash and hearing the report was inappreciable to me. I wish to +speak with all possible precision, and there are two points with regard to +this storm upon which I can speak with some accuracy. The first is in +regard to the distance of the lightning from our party. We _might_ have +been 1100 feet from it if a second of time had elapsed between seeing the +flashes and hearing the reports; and a second of time is not appreciated +by inexact persons. It was certain that we were sometimes less than that +distance from the lightning, because I saw it pass in front of well-known +points on the ridge, both above and below us, which were less (sometimes +considerably less) than a thousand feet distant. + +Secondly, in regard to the difficulty of distinguishing sounds which are +merely echoes from true thunder, or the noise which occurs simultaneously +with lightning. Arago entered into this subject at some length in his +_Meteorological Essays_, and seemed to doubt if it would ever be possible +to determine whether echoes are _always_ the cause of the rolling sounds +commonly called thunder.(83) I shall not attempt to show whether the +rolling sounds should ever, or never, be regarded as true thunder, but +only that during this storm upon the Matterhorn it was possible to +distinguish the sound of the thunder itself from the sounds (rolling and +otherwise) which were merely the echoes of the first, original sound. + +At the place where we were camped a remarkable echo could be heard (one so +remarkable that if it could be heard in this country it would draw crowds +for its own sake); I believe it came from the cliffs of the Dent d'Herens. +It was a favourite amusement with us to shout to rouse this echo, which +repeated any sharp cry, in a very distinct manner, several times, after +the lapse of something like a dozen seconds. The thunderstorm lasted +nearly two hours, and raged at times with great fury; and the prolonged +rollings from the surrounding mountains, after one flash, had not usually +ceased before another set of echoes took up the discourse, and maintained +the reverberations without a break. Occasionally there was a pause, +interrupted presently by a single clap, the accompaniment of a single +discharge, and after such times I could recognise the echoes from the Dent +d'Herens by their peculiar repetitions, and by the length of time which +had passed since the reports had occurred of which they were the echoes. + +If I had been unaware of the existence of this echo, I should have +supposed that the resounds were original reports of explosions which had +been unnoticed, since in intensity they were scarcely distinguishable from +the true thunder; which, during this storm, seemed to me, upon every +occasion, to consist of a single, harsh, instantaneous sound.(84) + +Or if, instead of being placed at a distance of less than a thousand feet +from the points of explosion (and consequently hearing the report almost +in the same moment as we saw the flash, and the rollings after a +considerable interval of time), we had been placed so that the original +report had fallen on our ears nearly at the same moment as the echoes, we +should probably have considered that the successive reports and rollings +of the echoes were reports of successive explosions occurring nearly at +the same moment, and that they were not echoes at all. + +This is the only time (out of many storms witnessed in the Alps) I have +obtained evidence that the rollings of thunder are actually echoes; and +that they are not, necessarily, the reports of a number of discharges over +a long line, occurring at varying distances from the spectator, and +consequently unable to arrive at his ear at the same moment, although they +follow each other so swiftly as to produce a sound more or less +continuous.(85) + +The wind during all this time seemed to blow tolerably consistently from +the east. It smote the tent so vehemently (notwithstanding it was partly +protected by rocks) that we had grave fears our refuge might be blown away +bodily, with ourselves inside; so, during some of the lulls, we issued out +and built a wall to windward. At half-past three the wind changed to the +north-west, and the clouds vanished. We immediately took the opportunity +to send down one of the porters (under protection of some of the others, a +little beyond the Col du Lion), as the tent would accommodate only five +persons. From this time to sunset the weather was variable. It was +sometimes blowing and snowing hard, and sometimes a dead calm. The bad +weather was evidently confined to the Mont Cervin, for when the clouds +lifted we could see everything that could be seen from our gite. Monte +Viso, a hundred miles off, was clear, and the sun set gorgeously behind +the range of Mont Blanc. We passed the night comfortably--even +luxuriously--in our blanket-bags, but there was little chance of sleeping, +between the noise of the wind, of the thunder, and of the falling rocks. I +forgave the thunder for the sake of the lightning. A more splendid +spectacle than its illumination of the Matterhorn crags I do not expect to +see.(86) + +The greatest rock-falls always seemed to occur in the night, between +midnight and daybreak. This was noticeable on each of the seven nights +which I passed upon the south-west ridge, at heights varying from 11,800 +to 13,000 feet. + +I may be wrong in supposing that the falls in the night are greater than +those in the daytime, since sound is much more startling during darkness +than when the cause of its production is seen. Even a sigh may be terrible +in the stillness of the night. In the daytime one's attention is probably +divided between the sound and the motion of rocks which fall; or it may be +concentrated on other matters. But it is certain that the greatest of the +falls which happened during the night took place after midnight, and this +I connect with the fact that the maximum of cold during any twenty-four +hours very commonly occurs between midnight and dawn. + +We turned out at 3.30 A.M. on the 11th, and were dismayed to find that it +still continued to snow. At 9 A.M. it ceased to fall, and the sun showed +itself feebly, so we packed up our baggage, and set out to try to get upon +"the shoulder." We struggled upwards until eleven o'clock, and then it +commenced to snow again. We held a council; the opinions expressed at it +were unanimous against advancing, and I decided to retreat. For we had +risen less than 300 feet in the past two hours, and had not even arrived +at the rope which Tyndall's party left behind, attached to the rocks, in +1862. At the same rate of progression it would have taken us from four to +five hours to get upon "the shoulder." Not one of us cared to attempt to +do so under the existing circumstances; for besides having to move our own +weight, which was sufficiently troublesome at this part of the ridge, we +had to transport much heavy baggage, tent, blankets, and provisions, +ladder, and 450 feet of rope, besides many other smaller matters. These, +however, were not the most serious considerations. Supposing that we got +upon "the shoulder," we might find ourselves detained there several days, +unable either to go up or down.(87) I could not risk any such detention, +being under obligations to appear in London at the end of the week. + + [Illustration: THE CRAGS OF THE MATTERHORN, DURING THE STORM, MIDNIGHT, + AUG. 10, 1863.] + +We returned to Breil in the course of the afternoon. It was quite fine +there, and the tenants of the inn received our statements with evident +scepticism. They were astonished to learn that we had been exposed to a +snow-storm of twenty-six hours' duration. "Why," said Favre, the +innkeeper, "_we_ have had no snow; it has been fine all the time you have +been absent, and there has been only that small cloud upon the mountain." +Ah! that small cloud! None except those who have had experience of it can +tell what a formidable obstacle it is. + + [Illustration: MONSIEUR FAVRE.] + +Why is it that the Matterhorn is subject to these abominable variations of +weather? The ready answer is, "Oh, the mountain is so isolated; it +attracts the clouds." This is not a sufficient answer. Although the +mountain _is_ isolated, it is not so much more isolated than the +neighbouring peaks that it should gather clouds when none of the others do +so. It will not at all account for the cloud to which I refer, which is +not formed by an aggregation of smaller, stray clouds drawn together from +a distance (as scum collects round a log in the water), but is created +against the mountain itself, and springs into existence where no clouds +were seen before. It is formed and hangs chiefly against the southern +sides, and particularly against the south-eastern side. It frequently does +not envelop the summit, and rarely extends down to the Glacier du Lion, +and to the Glacier du Mont Cervin below. It forms in the finest weather; +on cloudless and windless days. + +I conceive that we should look to differences of temperature rather than +to the height or isolation of the mountain for an explanation. I am +inclined to attribute the disturbances which occur in the atmosphere of +the southern sides of the Matterhorn on fine days,(88) principally to the +fact that the mountain is a _rock_ mountain; that it receives a great +amount of heat,(89) and is not only warmer itself, but is surrounded by an +atmosphere of a higher temperature than such peaks as the Weisshorn and +the Lyskamm, which are eminently _snow_ mountains. + +In certain states of the atmosphere its temperature may be tolerably +uniform over wide areas and to great elevations. I have known the +thermometer to show 70 deg. in the shade at the top of an Alpine peak more +than 13,000 feet high, and but a very few degrees higher 6000 or 7000 feet +lower. At other times, there will be a difference of forty or fifty +degrees (Faht.) between two stations, the higher not more than 6000 or +7000 feet above the lower. + +Provided that the temperature was uniform, or nearly so, on all sides of +the Matterhorn, and to a considerable distance above its summit, no clouds +would be likely to form upon it. But if the atmosphere immediately +surrounding it is warmer than the contiguous strata, a local "courant +ascendant" must necessarily be generated; and portions of the cooler +superincumbent (or circumjacent) air will naturally be attracted towards +the mountain, where they will speedily condense the moisture of the warm +air in contact with it. I cannot explain the downrushes of cold air which +occur on it, when all the rest of the neighbourhood appears to be +tranquil, in any other way. The clouds are produced by the contact of two +strata of air (of widely different temperatures) charged with invisible +moisture, as surely as certain colourless fluids produce a white, turbid +liquid, when mixed together. The order has been--wind of a low +temperature--mist--rain--snow or hail.(90) + +This opinion is borne out to some extent by the behaviour of the +neighbouring mountains. The Dom (14,935 feet) and the Dent Blanche +(14,318) have both of them large cliffs of bare rock upon their southern +sides, and against those cliffs clouds commonly form (during fine, still +weather) at the same time as the cloud on the Matterhorn; whilst the +Weisshorn (14,804) and the Lyskamm (14,889), (mountains of about the same +altitude, and which are in corresponding situations to the former pair) +usually remain perfectly clear. + + [Illustration: CROSSING THE CHANNEL.] + +I arrived at Chatillon at midnight on the 11th, defeated and disconsolate; +but, like a gambler who loses each throw, only the more eager to have +another try, to see if the luck would change: and returned to London ready +to devise fresh combinations, and to form new plans. + + + + + + CHAPTER VII. + + + FROM ST. MICHEL ON THE MONT CENIS ROAD BY THE COL DES AIGUILLES D'ARVE, + COL DE MARTIGNARE, AND THE BRECHE DE LA MEIJE TO LA BERARDE. + + + "The more to help the greater deed is done." + HOMER. + + +When we arrived upon the highest summit of Mont Pelvoux, in Dauphine, in +1861, we saw, to our surprise and disappointment, that it was not the +culminating point of the district; and that another mountain--distant about +a couple of miles, and separated from us by an impassable gulf--claimed +that distinction. I was troubled in spirit about this mountain, and my +thoughts often reverted to the great wall-sided peak, second in apparent +inaccessibility only to the Matterhorn. It had, moreover, another claim to +attention--it was the highest mountain IN France. + +The year 1862 passed away without a chance of getting to it, and my +holiday was too brief in 1863 even to think about it; but in the following +year it was possible, and I resolved to set my mind at rest by completing +the task which had been left unfinished in 1861. + +In the meantime others had turned their attention to Dauphine. First of +all (in 1862) came Mr. F. Tuckett--that mighty mountaineer, whose name is +known throughout the length and breadth of the Alps--with the guides Michel +Croz, Peter Perrn, and Bartolommeo Peyrotte, and great success attended +his arms. But Mr. Tuckett halted before the Pointe des Ecrins, and, +dismayed by its appearance, withdrew his forces to gather less dangerous +laurels elsewhere. + +His expedition, however, threw some light upon the Ecrins. He pointed out +the direction from which an attack was most likely to be successful, and +Mr. William Mathews and the Rev. T. G. Bonney (to whom he communicated the +result of his labours) attempted to execute the ascent, with the brothers +Michel and J. B. Croz, by following his indications. But they too were +defeated, as I shall relate more particularly presently. + + [Illustration: MICHEL-AUGUSTE CROZ (1865).] + +The guide Michel Croz had thus been engaged in both of these expeditions +in Dauphine, and I naturally looked to him for assistance. Mr. Mathews (to +whom I applied for information) gave him a high character, and concluded +his reply to me by saying, "he was only happy when upwards of 10,000 feet +high." + +I know what my friend meant. Croz was happiest when he was employing his +powers to the utmost. Places where you and I would "toil and sweat, and +yet be freezing cold," were bagatelles to him, and it was only when he got +above the range of ordinary mortals, and was required to employ his +magnificent strength, and to draw upon his unsurpassed knowledge of ice +and snow, that he could be said to be really and truly happy. + +Of all the guides with whom I travelled, Michel Croz was the man who was +most after my own heart. He did not work like a blunt razor, and take to +his toil unkindly. He did not need urging, or to be told a second time to +do anything. You had but to say _what_ was to be done, and _how_ it was to +be done, and the work _was_ done, if it was possible. Such men are not +common, and when they are known they are valued. Michel was not widely +known, but those who did know him employed him again and again. The +inscription that is placed upon his tomb truthfully records that he was +"beloved by his comrades and esteemed by travellers." + +At the time that I was planning my journey, my friends Messrs. A. W. Moore +and Horace Walker were also drawing up their programme; and, as we found +that our wishes were very similar, we agreed to unite our respective +parties. The excursions which are described in this and the two following +chapters are mutual ideas which were jointly executed. + +Our united programme was framed so as to avoid sleeping in inns, and so +that we should see from the highest point attained on one day a +considerable portion of the route which was intended to be followed on the +next. This latter matter was an important one to us, as all of our +projected excursions were new ones, and led over ground about which there +was very little information in print. + +My friends had happily secured Christian Almer of Grindelwald as their +guide. The combination of Croz and Almer was a perfect one. Both men were +in the prime of life;(91) both were endued with strength and activity far +beyond the average; and the courage and the knowledge of each was alike +undoubted. The temper of Almer it was impossible to ruffle; he was ever +obliging and enduring,--a bold but a safe man. That which he lacked in +fire--in dash--was supplied by Croz, who, in his turn, was kept in place by +Almer. It is pleasant to remember how they worked together, and how each +one confided to you that he liked the other so much because he worked so +well; but it is sad, very sad, to those who have known the men, to know +that they can never work together again. + + + +We met at St. Michel on the Mont Cenis road, at midday on June 20, 1864, +and proceeded in the afternoon over the Col de Valloires to the village of +the same name. The summit of this pretty little pass is about 3500 feet +above St. Michel, and from it we had a fair view of the Aiguilles d'Arve, +a group of three peaks of singular form, which it was our especial object +to investigate.(92) They had been seen by ourselves and others from +numerous distant points, and always looked very high and very +inaccessible; but we had been unable to obtain any information about them, +except the few words in Joanne's _Itineraire du Dauphine_. Having made out +from the summit of the Col de Valloires that they could be approached from +the Valley of Valloires, we hastened down to find a place where we could +pass the night, as near as possible to the entrance of the little valley +leading up to them. + +By nightfall we arrived at the entrance to this little valley (Vallon des +Aiguilles d'Arve), and found some buildings placed just where they were +wanted. The proprietress received us with civility, and placed a large +barn at our disposal, on the conditions that no lights were struck or +pipes smoked therein; and when her terms were agreed to, she took us into +her own chalet, made up a huge fire, heated a gallon of milk, and treated +us with genuine hospitality. + +In the morning we found that the Vallon des Aiguilles d'Arve led away +nearly due west from the Valley of Valloires, and that the village of +Bonnenuit was placed (in the latter valley) almost exactly opposite to the +junction of the two. + +At 3.55 A.M. on the 21st we set out up the Vallon, passed for a time over +pasture-land, and then over a stony waste, deeply channelled by +watercourses. At 5.30 the two principal Aiguilles were well seen, and as, +by this time, it was evident that the authors of the Sardinian official +map had romanced as extensively in this neighbourhood as elsewhere, it was +necessary to hold a council. + + [Illustration: Plan to show route] + +Three questions were submitted to it:--Firstly, Which is the highest of +these Aiguilles? Secondly, Which shall we go up? Thirdly, How is it to be +done? + +The French engineers, it was said, had determined that the two highest of +them were respectively 11,513 and 11,529 feet in height; but we were +without information as to which two they had measured.(93) Joanne indeed +said (but without specifying whether he meant all three) that the +Aiguilles had been several times ascended, and particularly mentioned that +the one of 11,513 feet was "relatively easy." + +We therefore said, "We will go up the peak of 11,529 feet." That +determination did not settle the second question. Joanne's "relatively +easy" peak, according to his description, was evidently the most northern +of the three. _Our_ peak then was to be one of the other two;--but which of +them? We were inclined to favour the central one; but it was hard to +determine, they looked so equal in height. When, however, the council came +to study the third question--"How is it to be done?" it was unanimously +voted that upon the eastern and southern sides it was certainly +"relatively" difficult, and that a move should be made round to the +northern side. + +The movement was duly executed, and after wading up some snow-slopes of +considerable steepness (going occasionally beyond 40 deg.), we found ourselves +in a gap or nick, between the central and northernmost Aiguille, at 8.45 +A.M. We then studied the northern face of our intended peak, and finally +arrived at the conclusion that it was "relatively" impracticable. Croz +shrugged his big shoulders, and said, "My faith! I think you will do well +to leave it to others." Almer was more explicit, and volunteered the +information that a thousand francs would not tempt him to _try_ it. We +then turned to the northernmost peak, but found its southern faces even +more hopeless than the northern faces of the central one. We enjoyed +accordingly the unwonted luxury of a three-hours' rest on the top of our +pass; for pass we were determined it should be. + +We might have done worse. We were 10,300 or 10,400 feet above the level of +the sea, and commanded a most picturesque view of the mountains of the +Tarentaise; while, somewhat east of south, we saw the monarch of the +Dauphine _massif_, whose closer acquaintance it was our intention to make. +Three sunny hours passed away, and then we turned to the descent. We saw +the distant pastures of a valley (which we supposed was the Vallon or +Ravine de la Sausse), and a long snow-slope leading down to them. But from +that slope we were cut off by precipitous rocks, and our first impression +was that we should have to return in our track. Some running up and down, +however, discovered two little gullies, filled with threads of snow, and +down the most northern of these we decided to go. It was a steep way but a +safe one, for the cleft was so narrow that we could press the shoulder +against one side whilst the feet were against the other, and the last +remnant of the winter's snow, well hardened, clung to the rift with great +tenacity, and gave us a path when the rocks refused one. In half-an-hour +we got to the top of the great snow-slope. Walker said--"Let us glissade;" +the guides--"No, it is too steep." Our friend, however, started off at a +standing glissade, and advanced for a time very skilfully; but after a +while he lost his balance, and progressed downwards and backwards with +great rapidity, in a way that seemed to us very much like tumbling head +over heels. He let go his axe, and left it behind, but it overtook him and +batted him heartily. He and it travelled in this fashion for some hundreds +of feet, and at last subsided into the rocks at the bottom. In a few +moments we were reassured as to his safety, by hearing him ironically +request us not to keep him waiting down there. + +[Illustration: THE AIGUILLES D'ARVE, FROM ABOVE THE CHALETS OF RIEU BLANC, + SHOWING ROUTE.] + +We others followed the track shown by the dotted line upon the engraving +(making zigzags to avoid the little groups of rocks which jutted through +the snow, by which Walker had been upset), descended by a _sitting_ +glissade, and rejoined our friend at the bottom. We then turned sharply to +the left, and tramped down the summit ridge of an old moraine of great +size. Its mud was excessively hard, and where some large erratic blocks +lay perched upon its crest, we were obliged to cut steps (in the mud) with +our ice-axes. + +Guided by the sound of a distant "moo," we speedily found the highest +chalets in the valley, named Rieu Blanc. They were tenanted by three old +women (who seemed to belong to one of the missing links sought by +naturalists), destitute of all ideas except in regard to cows, and who +spoke a barbarous patois, well-nigh unintelligible to the Savoyard Croz. +They would not believe that we had passed between the Aiguilles,--"It is +impossible, the _cows_ never go there." "Could we get to La Grave over +yonder ridge?" "Oh yes! the _cows_ often crossed!" Could they show us the +way? No; but we could follow the _cow_-tracks. + +We stayed a while near these chalets, to examine the western sides of the +Aiguilles d'Arve, and, according to our united opinion, the central one +was as inaccessible from this direction as from the east, north, or south. +On the following day we saw them again, from a height of about 11,000 +feet, in a south-easterly direction, and our opinion remained unchanged. + +We saw (on June 20-22) the central Aiguille from all sides, and very +nearly completely round the southernmost one. The northern one we also saw +on all sides excepting from the north. (It is, however, precisely from +this direction M. Joanne says that its ascent is relatively easy.) We do +not, therefore, venture to express any opinion respecting its ascent, +except as regards its actual summit. This is formed of two curious prongs, +or pinnacles of rock, and we do not understand in what way they (or either +of them) can be ascended; nor shall we be surprised if this ascent is +discovered to have been made in spirit rather than body; in fact, in the +same manner as the celebrated ascent of Mont Blanc, "not entirely to the +summit, but as far as the Montanvert!" + +All three of the Aiguilles _may_ be accessible, but they _look_ as +inaccessible as anything I have seen. They are the highest summits between +the valleys of the Romanche and the Arc; they are placed slightly to the +north of the watershed between those two valleys, and a line drawn through +them runs, pretty nearly, north and south. + +We descended by a rough path from Rieu Blanc to the chalets of La Sausse, +which give the name to the Vallon or Ravine de la Sausse, in which they +are situated. This is one of the numerous branches of the valley that +descends to St. Jean d'Arve, and subsequently to St. Jean de Maurienne. + +Two passes, more or less known, lead from this valley to the village of La +Grave (on the Lautaret road) in the valley of the Romanche, viz.:--the Col +de l'Infernet and the Col de Martignare. The former pass was crossed, many +years ago, by J. D. Forbes, and was mentioned by him in his _Norway and +its Glaciers_. The latter one lies to the north of the former, and is +seldom traversed by tourists, but it was convenient for us, and we set out +to cross it on the morning of the 22d, after having passed a comfortable, +but not luxurious, night in the hay, at La Sausse, where, however, the +simplicity of the accommodation was more than counterbalanced by the +civility and hospitality of the people in charge.(94) + +[Our object now was to cross to La Grave (on the high road from Grenoble +to Briancon), and to ascend, _en route_, some point sufficiently high to +give us a good view of the Dauphine Alps in general, and of the grand +chain of the Meije in particular. Before leaving England a careful study +of "Joanne" had elicited the fact that the shortest route from La Sausse +to La Grave was by the Col de Martignare; and also that from the aforesaid +Col it was possible to ascend a lofty summit, called by him the +Bec-du-Grenier, also called Aiguille de Goleon. On referring, however, to +the Sardinian survey, we found there depicted, to the east of the Col de +Martignare, not _one_ peak bearing the above _two_ names, but _two +distinct summits_; one--just above the Col--the Bec-du-Grenier (the height +of which was not stated); the other, still farther to the east, and +somewhat to the south of the watershed--the Aiguille du Goleon (11,250 +English feet in height), with a very considerable glacier--the Glacier +Lombard--between the two. On the French map,(95) on the other hand, neither +of the above names was to be found, but a peak called Aiguille de la +Sausse (10,897 feet), was placed in the position assigned to the +Bec-du-Grenier in the Sardinian map; while farther to the east was a +second and nameless peak (10,841), not at all in the position given to the +Aiguille du Goleon, of which and of the Glacier Lombard there was not a +sign. All this was very puzzling and unsatisfactory; but as we had no +doubt of being able to climb one of the points to the east of the Col de +Martignare (which overhung the Ravine de la Sausse), we determined to make +that col the basis of our operations.](96) + +We left the chalets at 4.15 A.M. [under a shower of good wishes from our +hostesses], proceeded at first towards the upper end of the ravine, then +doubled back up a long buttress which projects in an unusual way, and went +towards the Col de Martignare; but before arriving at its summit we again +doubled, and resumed the original course.(97) At 6 A.M. we stood on the +watershed, and followed it towards the east; keeping for some distance +strictly to the ridge, and afterwards diverging a little to the south to +avoid a considerable secondary aiguille, which prevented a straight track +being made to the summit at which we were aiming. At 9.15 we stood on its +top, and saw at once the lay of the land. + +We found that our peak was one of four which enclosed a plateau that was +filled by a glacier. Let us call these summits *A*, *B*, *C*, *D* (see +plan on p. 128). We stood upon *C*, which was almost exactly the same +elevation as *B*, but was higher than *D*, and lower than *A*. Peak *A* +was the highest of the four, and was about 200 feet higher than *B* and +*C*; we identified it as the Aiguille de Goleon (French survey, 11,250 +feet). Peak *D* we considered was the Bec-du-Grenier; and, in default of +other names, we called *B* and *C* the Aiguilles de la Sausse. The glacier +flowed in a south-easterly direction, and was the Glacier Lombard. + +Peaks *B* and *C* overhung the Ravine de la Sausse, and were connected +with another aiguille--*E*--which did the same. A continuation of the ridge +out of which these three aiguilles rose joined the Aiguilles d'Arve. The +head of the Ravine de la Sausse was therefore encircled by six peaks; +three of which it was convenient to term the Aiguilles de la Sausse, and +the others were the Aiguilles d'Arve. + +We were very fortunate in the selection of our summit. Not to speak of +other things, it gave a grand view of the ridge which culminates in the +peak called La Meije (13,080 feet), which used to be mentioned by +travellers under the name Aiguille du Midi de la Grave. The view of this +mountain from the village of La Grave itself can hardly be praised too +highly,--it is one of the very finest road-views in the Alps. The Ortler +Spitz from the Stelvio is, in fact, its only worthy competitor; and the +opinions generally of those who have seen the two views are in favour of +the former. But from La Grave one can no more appreciate the noble +proportions and the towering height of the Meije, than understand the +symmetry of the dome of St. Paul's by gazing upon it from the churchyard. +To see it fairly, one must be placed at a greater distance and at a +greater height. + +I shall not try to describe the Meije. The same words, and the same +phrases, have to do duty for one and another mountain; their repetition +becomes wearisome; and 'tis a discouraging fact that any description, +however true or however elaborated, seldom or never gives an idea of the +reality. + +Yet the Meije deserves more than a passing notice. It was the last great +Alpine peak which knew the foot of man, and one can scarcely speak in +exaggerated terms of its jagged ridges, torrential glaciers, and +tremendous precipices.(98) But were I to discourse upon these things +without the aid of pictures, or to endeavour to convey in _words_ a sense +of the loveliness of _curves_, of the beauty of _colour_, or of the +harmonies of _sound_, I should try to accomplish that which is impossible; +and, at the best, should succeed in but giving an impression that the +things spoken of may have been pleasant to hear or to behold, although +they are perfectly incomprehensible to read about. Let me therefore avoid +these things, not because I have no love for or thought of them, but +because they cannot be translated into language; and presently, when +topographical details must, of necessity, be returned to again, I will +endeavour to relieve the poverty of the pen by a free use of the pencil. + +Whilst we sat upon the Aiguille de la Sausse, our attention was +concentrated on a point that was immediately opposite--on a gap or cleft +between the Meije and the mountain called the Rateau. It was, indeed, in +order to have a good view of this place that we made the ascent of the +Aiguille. It (that is the gap itself) looked, as my companions remarked, +obtrusively and offensively a pass. It had not been crossed, but it ought +to have been; and this seemed to have been recognised by the natives, who +called it, very appropriately, the Breche de la Meije. + +I had seen the place in 1860, and again in 1861, but had not then thought +about getting through it; and our information in respect to it was chiefly +derived from a photographic reproduction of the then unpublished sheet +189, of the great map of France, which Mr. Tuckett, with his usual +liberality, had placed at our disposal. It was evident from this map that +if we could succeed in passing the Breche, we should make the most direct +route between the village of La Grave and that of Berarde in the +Department of the Isere, and that the distance between these two places by +this route, would be less than one-third that of the ordinary way via the +villages of Freney and Venos. It may occur to some of my readers, why had +it not been done before? For the very sound reason that the valley on its +southern side (Vallon des Etancons) is uninhabited, and La Berarde itself +is a miserable village, without interest, without commerce, and almost +without population. Why then did we wish to cross it? Because we were +bound to the Pointe des Ecrins, to which La Berarde was the nearest +inhabited place. + +When we sat upon the Aiguille de la Sausse, we were rather despondent +about our prospects of crossing the Breche, which seemed to present a +combination of all that was formidable. There was, evidently, but one way +by which it could be approached. We saw that at the top of the pass there +was a steep wall of snow or ice (so steep that it was most likely ice) +protected at its base by a big schrund or moat, which severed it from the +snow-fields below. Then (tracking our course downwards) we saw undulating +snow-fields leading down to a great glacier. The snow-fields would be easy +work, but the glacier was riven and broken in every direction; huge +crevasses seemed to extend entirely across it in some places, and +everywhere it had that strange twisted look, which tells of the unequal +motion of the ice. Where could we get on to it? At its base it came to a +violent end, being cut short by a cliff, over which it poured periodical +avalanches, as we saw by a great triangular bed of debris below. We could +not venture there,--the glacier must be taken in flank. But on which side? +Not on the west,--no one could climb those cliffs. It must, if any where, +be by the rocks on the east; and _they_ looked as if they were _roches +moutonnees_. + +So we hurried down to La Grave, to hear what Melchior Anderegg (who had +just passed through the village with the family of our friend Walker) had +to say on the matter. Who is Melchior Anderegg? Those who ask the question +cannot have been in Alpine Switzerland, where the name of Melchior is as +well known as the name of Napoleon. Melchior, too, is an Emperor in his +way--a very Prince among guides. His empire is amongst the "eternal +snows,"--his sceptre is an ice-axe. + +Melchior Anderegg, more familiarly, and perhaps more generally known +simply as Melchior, was born at Zaun, near Meiringen, on April 6, 1828. He +was first brought into public notice in Hinchcliff's _Summer Months in the +Alps_, and was known to very few persons at the time that little work was +published. In 1855 he was "Boots" at the Grimsel Hotel, and in those days, +when he went out on expeditions, it was for the benefit of his master, the +proprietor; Melchior himself only got the _trinkgelt_. In 1856 he migrated +to the Schwarenbach Inn on the Gemmi, where he employed his time in +carving objects for sale. In 1858 he made numerous expeditions with +Messrs. Hinchcliff and Stephen, and proved to his employers that he +possessed first-rate skill, indomitable courage, and an admirable +character. His position has never been doubtful since that year, and for a +long time there has been no guide whose services have been more in +request: he is usually engaged a year in advance. + +It would be almost an easier task to say what he has not done than to +catalogue his achievements. Invariable success attends his arms; he leads +his followers to victory, but not to death. I believe that no serious +accident has ever befallen travellers in his charge. Like his friend +Almer, he can be called a _safe_ man. It is the highest praise that can be +given to a first-rate guide. + + [Illustration: MELCHIOR ANDEREGG IN 1864.] + +Early in the afternoon we found ourselves in the little inn at La Grave, +on the great Lautaret road, a rickety, tumble-down sort of place, with +nothing stable about it, as Moore wittily remarked, except the smell.(99) +Melchior had gone, and had left behind a note which said, "I think the +passage of the Breche is possible, but that it will be very difficult." +His opinion coincided with ours, and we went to sleep, expecting to be +afoot about eighteen or twenty hours on the morrow. + +At 2.40 the next morning we left La Grave, in a few minutes crossed the +Romanche, and at 4 A.M. got to the moraine of the eastern branch of the +glacier that descends from the Breche.(100) The rocks by which we intended +to ascend were placed between the two branches of this glacier, and still +looked smooth and unbroken. By 5 o'clock we were upon them, and saw that +we had been deluded by them. No carpenter could have planned a more +convenient staircase. They were _not moutonnee_, their smooth look from a +distance was only owing to their singular firmness. [It was really quite a +pleasure to scale such delightful rocks. We felt the stone held the boot +so well, that, without making a positive effort to do so, it would be +almost impossible to slip.] In an hour we had risen above the most +crevassed portion of the glacier, and began to look for a way on to it. +Just at the right place there was a patch of old snow at the side, and, +instead of gaining the ice by desperate acrobatic feats, we passed from +the rocks on to it as easily as one walks across a gangway. At half-past 6 +we were on the centre of the glacier, and the inhabitants of La Grave +turned out _en masse_ into the road, and watched us with amazement as they +witnessed the falsification of their confident predictions. Well might +they stare, for our little caravan, looking to them like a train of flies +on a wall, crept up and up, without hesitation and without a halt--lost to +their sight one minute as it dived into a crevasse, then seen again +clambering up the other side. The higher we rose the easier became the +work, the angles lessened, and our pace increased. The snow remained +shadowed, and we walked as easily as on a high road; and when (at 7.45) +the summit of the Breche was seen, we rushed at it as furiously as if it +had been a breach in the wall of a fortress, carried the moat by a dash, +with a push behind and a pull before, stormed the steep slope above, and +at 8.50 stood in the little gap, 11,054 feet above the level of the sea. +The Breche was won. Well might they stare; five hours and a quarter had +sufficed for 6500 feet of ascent.(101) We screamed triumphantly as they +turned in to breakfast. + + [Illustration: Map of the Breche de la Meije, etc.] + +All mountaineers know how valuable it is to study beforehand an intended +route over new ground from a height at some distance. None but blunderers +fail to do so, if it is possible; and one cannot do so too thoroughly. As +a rule, the closer one approaches underneath a summit, the more difficult +it is to pick out a path with judgment. Inferior peaks seem unduly +important, subordinate ridges are exalted, and slopes conceal points +beyond; and if one blindly undertakes an ascent, without having acquired a +tolerable notion of the relative importance of the parts, and of their +positions to one another, it will be miraculous if great difficulties are +not encountered. + +But although the examination of an intended route from a height at a +distance will tell one (who knows the meaning of the things he is looking +at) a good deal, and will enable him to steer clear of many difficulties +against which he might otherwise blindly run, it will seldom allow one to +pronounce positively upon the practicability or impracticability of the +whole of the route. No living man, for example, can pronounce positively +from a distance in regard to rocks. Those just mentioned are an +illustration of this. Three of the ablest and most experienced guides +concurred in thinking that they would be found very difficult, and yet +they presented no difficulty whatever. In truth, the sounder and less +broken up are the rocks, the more impracticable do they usually look from +a distance; while soft and easily rent rocks, which are often amongst the +most difficult and perilous to climb, very frequently look from afar as if +they might be traversed by a child. + +It is possible to decide with greater certainty in regard to the +practicability of glaciers. When one is seen to have few open crevasses +(and this may be told from a great distance), then we know that it is +_possible_ to traverse it; but to what extent it, or a glacier that is +much broken up by crevasses, will be troublesome, will depend upon the +width and length of the crevasses, and upon the angles of the surface of +the glacier itself. A glacier may be greatly crevassed, but the fissures +may be so narrow that there is no occasion to deviate from a straight line +when passing across them; or a glacier may have few open crevasses, and +yet may be practically impassable on account of the steepness of the +angles of its surface. Nominally, a man with an axe can go anywhere upon a +glacier, but in practice it is found that to move freely upon ice one must +have to deal only with small angles. It is thus necessary to know +approximately the angles of the surfaces of a glacier before it is +possible to determine whether it will afford easy travelling, or will be +so difficult as to be (for all practical purposes) impassable. This cannot +be told by looking at glaciers in full face from a distance; they must be +seen in profile; and it is often desirable to examine them both from the +front and in profile,--to do the first to study the direction of the +crevasses, to note where they are most and least numerous; and the second +to see whether its angles are moderate or great. Should they be very +steep, it may be better to avoid them altogether, and to mount even by +difficult rocks; but upon glaciers of _gentle_ inclination, and with few +open crevasses, better progress can always be made than upon the _easiest_ +rocks. + +So much to explain why we were deceived when looking at the Breche de la +Meije from the Aiguille de la Sausse. We took note of all the +difficulties, but did not pay sufficient attention to the distance that +the Breche was south of La Grave. My meaning will be apparent from the +accompanying diagram, Fig. 1 (constructed upon the data supplied by the +French surveyors), which will also serve to illustrate how badly angles of +elevation are judged by the unaided eye. + + [Illustration: Diagram to show angle of summit of Meije, etc.] + +The village of La Grave is just 5000 feet, and the highest summit of the +Meije is 13,080 feet above the level of the sea. There is therefore a +difference in their levels of 8080 feet. But the summit of the Meije is +south of La Grave about 14,750 feet, and, consequently, a line drawn from +La Grave to the summit of the Meije is no steeper than the dotted line +drawn from *A* to *C*, Fig. 1; or, in other words, if one could go in a +direct line from La Grave to the summit of the Meije the ascent would be +at an angle of less than 30 deg.. Nine persons out of ten would probably +estimate the angle on the spot at double this amount.(102) + +The Breche is 2000 feet below the summit of the Meije, and only 6000 feet +above La Grave. A direct ascent from the village to the Breche would +consequently be at an angle of not much more than 20 deg.. But it is not +possible to make the ascent as the crow flies; it has to be made by an +indirect and much longer route. Our track was probably double the length +of a direct line between the two places. Doubling the length halved the +angles, and we therefore arrive at the somewhat amazing conclusion, that +upon this, one of the steepest passes in the Alps, the mean of all the +angles upon the ascent could not have been greater than 11 deg. or 12 deg.. Of +course, in some places, the angles were much steeper, and in others less, +but the _mean_ of the whole could not have passed the angle above +indicated. + +[Illustration: THE VALLON DES ETANCONS (LOOKING TOWARDS LA BERARDE).(103)] + +We did not trouble ourselves much with these matters when we sat on the +top of the Breche. Our day's work was as good as over (for we knew from +Messrs. Mathews and Bonney that there was no difficulty upon the other +side), and we abandoned ourselves to ease and luxury; wondering, +alternately, as we gazed upon the Rateau and the Ecrins, how the one +mountain could possibly hold itself together, and whether the other would +hold out against us. The former looked [so rotten that it seemed as if a +puff of wind or a clap of thunder might dash the whole fabric to pieces]; +while the latter asserted itself the monarch of the group, and towered +head and shoulders above all the rest of the peaks which form the great +horse-shoe of Dauphine. At length a cruel rush of cold air made us shiver, +and shift our quarters to a little grassy plot, 3000 feet below--an oasis +in a desert--where we lay nearly four hours admiring the splendid wall of +the Meije.(104) Then we tramped down the Vallon des Etancons, a howling +wilderness, the abomination of desolation; destitute alike of animal or +vegetable life; pathless, of course; suggestive of chaos, but of little +else; covered almost throughout its entire length with debris from the +size of a walnut up to that of a house; in a word, it looked as if +half-a-dozen moraines of first-rate dimensions had been carted and shot +into it. Our tempers were soured by constant pitfalls [it was impossible +to take the eyes from the feet, and if an unlucky individual so much as +blew his nose, without standing still to perform the operation, the result +was either an instantaneous tumble, or a barked shin, or a half-twisted +ankle. There was no end to it, and we became more savage at every step, +unanimously agreeing that no power on earth would ever induce us to walk +up or down this particular valley again.] It was not just to the valley, +which was enclosed by noble mountains,--unknown, it is true, but worthy of +a great reputation, and which, if placed in other districts, would be +sought after, and cited as types of daring form and graceful outline.(105) + + + + + + CHAPTER VIII + + + THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE POINTE DES ECRINS. + + + "Filled with high mountains, rearing their heads as if to reach + to heaven, crowned with glaciers, and fissured with immense + chasms, where lie the eternal snows guarded by bare and rugged + cliffs; offering the most varied sights, and enjoying all + temperatures; and containing everything that is most curious and + interesting, the most simple and the most sublime, the most + smiling and the most severe, the most beautiful and the most + awful; such is the department of the High Alps." + LADOUCETTE. + + +Before 5 o'clock on the afternoon of June 23, we were trotting down the +steep path that leads into La Berarde. We put up, of course, with the +chasseur-guide Rodier (who, as usual, was smooth and smiling), and, after +congratulations were over, we returned to the exterior to watch for the +arrival of one Alexander Pic, who had been sent overnight with our baggage +_via_ Freney and Venos. But when the night fell, and no Pic appeared, we +saw that our plans must be modified; for he was necessary to our very +existence--he carried our food, our tobacco, our all. So, after some +discussion, it was agreed that a portion of our programme should be +abandoned, that the night of the 24th should be passed at the head of the +Glacier de la Bonne Pierre, and that, on the 25th, a push should be made +for the summit of the Ecrins. We then went to straw. + +Our porter Pic strolled in next morning with a very jaunty air, and we +seized upon our tooth-brushes; but, upon looking for the cigars, we found +starvation staring us in the face. "Hullo! Monsieur Pic, where are our +cigars?" "Gentlemen," he began, "I am desolated!" and then, quite pat, he +told a long rigmarole about a fit on the road, of brigands, thieves, of +their ransacking the knapsacks when he was insensible, and of finding them +gone when he revived! "Ah! Monsieur Pic, we see what it is, you have +smoked them yourself!" "Gentlemen, I never smoke, _never_!" Whereupon we +inquired secretly if he was known to smoke, and found that he was. +However, he said that he had never spoken truer words, and perhaps he had +not, for he is reported to be the greatest liar in Dauphine! + + [Illustration: Map of the central Dauphine Alps] + +We were now able to start, and set out at 1.15 P.M. to bivouac upon the +Glacier de la Bonne Pierre, accompanied by Rodier, who staggered under a +load of blankets. Many slopes had to be mounted, and many torrents to be +crossed, all of which has been described by Mr. Tuckett.(106) We, however, +avoided the difficulties he experienced with the latter by crossing them +high up, where they were subdivided. But when we got on to the moraine on +the right bank of the glacier (or, properly speaking, on to one of the +moraines, for there are several), mists descended, to our great hindrance; +and it was 5.30 before we arrived on the spot at which it was intended to +camp. + +Each one selected his nook, and we then joined round a grand fire made by +our men. Fortnum and Mason's portable soup was sliced up and brewed, and +was excellent; but it should be said that before it _was_ excellent, three +times the quantity named in the directions had to be used. Art is required +in drinking as in making this soup, and one point is this--always let your +friends drink first; not only because it is more polite, but because the +soup has a tendency to burn the mouth if taken too hot, and one drink of +the bottom is worth two of the top, as all the goodness settles. + +[While engaged in these operations, the mist that enveloped the glacier +and surrounding peaks was becoming thinner; little bits of blue sky +appeared here and there, until suddenly, when we were looking towards the +head of the glacier, far, far above us, at an almost inconceivable height, +in a tiny patch of blue, appeared a wonderful rocky pinnacle, bathed in +the beams of the fast-sinking sun. We were so electrified by the glory of +the sight that it was some seconds before we realised what we saw, and +understood that that astounding point, removed apparently miles from the +earth, was one of the highest summits of Les Ecrins; and that we hoped, +before another sun had set, to have stood upon an even loftier pinnacle. +The mists rose and fell, presenting us with a series of dissolving views +of ravishing grandeur, and finally died away, leaving the glacier and its +mighty bounding precipices under an exquisite pale blue sky, free from a +single speck of cloud.] + +The night passed over without anything worth mention, but we had had +occasion to observe in the morning an instance of the curious evaporation +that is frequently noticeable in the High Alps. On the previous night we +had hung up on a knob of rock our mackintosh bag containing five bottles +of Rodier's bad wine. In the morning, although the stopper appeared to +have been in all night, about four-fifths had evaporated. It was strange; +my friends had not taken any, neither had I, and the guides each declared +that they had not seen any one touch it. In fact it was clear that there +was no explanation of the phenomenon, but in the dryness of the air. Still +it is remarkable that the dryness of the air (or the evaporation of wine) +is always greatest when a stranger is in one's party--the dryness caused by +the presence of even a single Chamounix porter is sometimes so great, that +not four-fifths but the entire quantity disappears. For a time I found +difficulty in combating this phenomenon, but at last discovered that if I +used the wine-flask as a pillow during the night, the evaporation was +completely stopped. + +At 4 A.M. we moved off across the glacier in single file towards the foot +of a great gully, which led from the upper slopes of the glacier de la +Bonne Pierre, to the lowest point in the ridge that runs from the Ecrins +to the mountain called Roche Faurio,--cheered by Rodier, who now returned +with his wraps to La Berarde. This gully (or _couloir_) was discovered and +descended by Mr. Tuckett, and we will now return for a minute to the +explorations of that accomplished mountaineer. + +In the year 1862 he had the good fortune to obtain from the _Depot de la +Guerre_ at Paris, a MS. copy of the then unpublished sheet 189 of the map +of France, and with it in hand, he swept backwards and forwards across the +central Dauphine Alps, untroubled by the doubts as to the identity of +peaks, which had perplexed Mr. Macdonald and myself in 1861; and, +enlightened by it, he was able to point out (which he did in the fairest +manner) that we had confounded the Ecrins with another mountain--the Pic +Sans Nom. We made this blunder through imperfect knowledge of the district +and inaccurate reports of the natives;--but it was not an extraordinary one +(the two mountains are not unlike each other), considering the difficulty +that there is in obtaining from any except the very highest summits a +complete view of this intricate group. + +The situations of the principal summits can be perceived at a glance on +the accompanying map, which is a reproduction of a portion of sheet 189. +The main ridge of the chain runs, at this part, nearly north and south. +Roche Faurio, at the northern extreme, is 3716 metres, or 12,192 feet, +above the level of the sea. The lowest point between that mountain and the +Ecrins (the Col des Ecrins) is 11,000 feet. The ridge again rises, and +passes 13,000 feet in the neighbourhood of the Ecrins. The highest summit +of that mountain (13,462 feet) is, however, placed a little to the east of +and off the main ridge. It then again falls, and in the vicinity of the +Col de la Tempe it is, perhaps, below 11,000 feet; but immediately to the +south of the summit of that pass, there is upon the ridge a point which +has been determined by the French surveyors to be 12,323 feet. This peak +is without a name. The ridge continues to gain height as we come to the +south, and culminates in the mountain which the French surveyors have +called Sommet de l'Aile Froide. On the spot it is called, very commonly, +the Alefroide. + +There is some uncertainty respecting the elevation of this mountain. The +Frenchmen give 3925 metres (12,878) as its highest point, but Mr. Tuckett, +who took a good theodolite to the top of Mont Pelvoux (which he agreed +with his predecessors had an elevation of 12,973 feet), found that the +summit of the Alefroide was elevated above his station 4{~PRIME~}; and as the +distance between the two points was 12,467 feet, this would represent a +difference in altitude of 5 metres in favour of the Alefroide. I saw this +mountain from the summit of Mont Pelvoux in 1861, and was in doubt as to +which of the two was the higher, and in 1864, from the summit of the +Pointe des Ecrins (as will presently be related), it looked actually +higher than Mont Pelvoux. I have therefore little doubt but that Mr. +Tuckett is right in believing the Alefroide to have an elevation of about +13,000 feet, instead of 12,878, as determined by the French surveyors. + +Mont Pelvoux is to the east of the Alefroide and off the main ridge, and +the Pic Sans Nom (12,845 feet) is placed between these two mountains. The +latter is one of the grandest of the Dauphine peaks, but it is shut in by +the other mountains, and is seldom seen except from a distance, and then +is usually confounded with the neighbouring summits. Its name has been +accidentally omitted on the map, but its situation is represented by the +large patch of rocks, nearly surrounded by glaciers, that is seen between +the words Ailefroide and Mt. Pelvoux. + +The lowest depression on the main ridge to the south of the Alefroide is +the Col du Sele, and this, according to Mr. Tuckett, is 10,834 feet. The +ridge soon rises again, and, a little farther to the south, joins another +ridge running nearly east and west. To a mountain at the junction of these +two ridges the Frenchmen have given the singular name Crete des Boeufs +Rouges! The highest point hereabouts is 11,332 feet; and a little to the +west there is another peak (Mont Bans) of 11,979 feet. The main ridge runs +from this last-named point, in a north-westerly direction, to the Cols de +Says, both of which exceed 10,000 feet. + +It will thus be seen that the general elevation of this main ridge is +almost equal to that of the range of Mont Blanc, or of the central Pennine +Alps; and if we were to follow it out more completely, or to follow the +other ridges surrounding or radiating from it, we should find that there +is a remarkable absence, throughout the entire district, of low gaps and +depressions, and that there are an extraordinary number of peaks of medium +elevation.(107) The difficulty which explorers have experienced in +Dauphine in identifying peaks, has very much arisen from the elevation of +the ridges generally being more uniform than is commonly found in the +Alps, and the consequent facile concealment of one point by another. The +difficulty has been enhanced by the narrowness and erratic courses of the +valleys. + +The possession of the "advanced copy" of sheet 189 of the French map, +enabled Mr. Tuckett to grasp most of what I have just said, and much more; +and he added, in 1862, three interesting passes across this part of the +chain to those already known. The first, from Ville Vallouise to La +Berarde, _via_ the village of Claux, and the glaciers du Sele and de la +Pilatte,--this he called the Col du Sele; the second, between Ville +Vallouise and Villar d'Arene (on the Lautaret road) _via_ Claux and the +glaciers Blanc and d'Arsine,--the Col du Glacier Blanc; and the third, from +Vallouise to La Berarde, _via_ the Glacier Blanc, the Glacier de l'Encula, +and the Glacier de la Bonne Pierre, the Col des Ecrins. + +This last pass was discovered accidentally. Mr. Tuckett set out intending +to endeavour to ascend the Pointe des Ecrins, but circumstances were +against him, as he relates in the following words:--"Arrived on the +plateau" (of the Glacier de l'Encula), "a most striking view of the Ecrins +burst upon us, and a hasty inspection encouraged us to hope that its +ascent would be practicable. On the sides of La Berarde and the Glacier +Noir it presents, as has been already stated, the most precipitous and +inaccessible faces that can well be conceived; but in the direction of the +Glacier de l'Encula, as the upper plateau of the Glacier Blanc is named on +the French map, the slopes are less rapid, and immense masses of _neve_ +and _seracs_ cover it nearly to the summit." + +"The snow was in very bad order, and as we sank at each step above the +knee, it soon became evident that our prospects of success were extremely +doubtful. A nearer approach, too, disclosed traces of fresh avalanches, +and after much deliberation and a careful examination through the +telescope, it was decided that the chances in our favour were too small to +render it desirable to waste time in the attempt.... I examined the map, +from which I perceived that the glacier seen through the gap" (in the +ridge running from Roche Faurio to the Ecrins) "to the west, at a great +depth below, must be that of La Bonne Pierre; and if a descent to its head +was practicable, a passage might probably be effected to La Berarde. On +suggesting to Croz and Perrn that, though baffled by the state of the snow +on the Ecrins, we might still achieve something of interest and importance +by discovering a new col, they both heartily assented, and in a few +minutes Perrn was over the edge, and cutting his way down the rather +formidable _couloir_," etc. etc.(108) + +This was the couloir at the foot of which we found ourselves at daybreak +on the 25th of June 1864; but before commencing the relation of our doings +upon that eventful day, I must recount the experiences of Messrs. Mathews +and Bonney in 1862. + +These gentlemen, with the two Croz's, attempted the ascent of the Ecrins a +few weeks after Mr. Tuckett had inspected the mountain. On August 26, says +Mr. Bonney, "we pushed on, and our hopes each moment rose higher and +higher; even the cautious Michel committed himself so far as to cry, 'Ah, +malheureux Ecrins, vous serez bientot morts,' as we addressed ourselves to +the last slope leading up to the foot of the final cone. The old proverb +about 'many a slip' was, however, to prove true on this occasion. Arrived +at the top of this slope, we found that we were cut off from the peak by a +formidable bergschrund, crossed by the rottenest of snow-bridges. We +looked to the right and to the left, to see whether it would be possible +to get on either arete at its extremity; but instead of rising directly +from the snow as they appeared to do from below, they were terminated by a +wall of rock some forty feet high. There was but one place where the +bergschrund was narrow enough to admit of crossing, and there a cliff of +ice had to be climbed, and then a path to be cut up a steep slope of snow, +before the arete could be reached. At last, after searching in vain for +some time, Michel bade us wait a little, and started off to explore the +gap separating the highest peak from the snow-dome on the right, and see +if it were possible to ascend the rocky wall. Presently he appeared, +evidently climbing with difficulty, and at last stood on the arete itself. +Again we thought the victory was won, and started off to follow him. +Suddenly he called to us to halt, and turned to descend. In a few minutes +he stopped. After a long pause he shouted to his brother, saying that he +was not able to return by the way he had ascended. Jean was evidently +uneasy about him, and for some time we watched him with much anxiety. At +length he began to hew out steps in the snow along the face of the peak +towards us. Jean now left us, and, making for the ice-cliff mentioned +above, chopped away until, after about a quarter of an hour's labour, he +contrived, somehow or other, to worm himself up it, and began to cut steps +to meet his brother. Almost every step appeared to be cut right through +the snowy crust into the hard ice below, and an incipient stream of snow +came hissing down the sides of the peak as they dug it away with their +axes. Michel could not have been much more than 100 yards from us, and yet +it was full three quarters of an hour before the brothers met. This done, +they descended carefully, burying their axe-heads deep in the snow at +every step. + +"Michel's account was that he had reached the arete with great difficulty, +and saw that it was practicable for some distance, in fact, as far as he +could see; but that the snow was in a most dangerous condition, being very +incoherent and resting on hard ice; that when he began to descend in order +to tell us this, he found the rocks so smooth and slippery that return was +impossible; and that for some little time he feared that he should not be +able to extricate himself, and was in considerable danger. Of course the +arete could have been reached by the way our guides had descended, but it +was so evident that their judgment was against proceeding, that we did not +feel justified in urging them on. We had seen so much of them that we felt +sure they would never hang back unless there was real danger, and so we +gave the word for retreating."(109) + +On both of these expeditions there was fine weather and plenty of time. On +each occasion the parties slept out at, and started from, a considerable +elevation, and arrived at the base of the final peak of the Ecrins early +in the day, and with plenty of superfluous energy. Guides and travellers +alike, on each occasion, were exceptional men, experienced mountaineers, +who had proved their skill and courage on numerous antecedent occasions, +and who were not accustomed to turn away from a thing merely because it +was difficult. On each occasion the attempts were abandoned because the +state of the snow on and below the final peak was such that avalanches +were anticipated; and, according to the judgment of those who were +concerned, there was such an amount of positive danger from this condition +of things, that it was unjustifiable to persevere. + +We learnt privately, from Messrs. Mathews, Bonney, and Tuckett, that +unless the snow was in a good state upon the final peak (that is to say, +coherent and stable), we should probably be of the same opinion as +themselves; and that, although the face of the mountain fronting the +Glacier de l'Encula was much less steep than its other faces, and was +apparently the _only_ side upon which an attempt was at all likely to be +successful, it was, nevertheless, so steep, that for several days, at +least, after a fall of snow upon it, the chances in favour of avalanches +would be considerable. + +The reader need scarcely be told, after all that has been said about the +variableness of weather in the High Alps, the chance was small indeed that +we should find upon the 25th of June, or any other set day, the precise +condition of affairs that was deemed indispensable for success. We had +such confidence in the judgment of our friends, that it was understood +amongst us the ascent should be abandoned, unless the conditions were +manifestly favourable. + + [Illustration: The Pointe des Ecrins from the Col du Galibier] + +By five minutes to six we were at the top of the gully (a first-rate +couloir, about 1000 feet high), and within sight of our work. Hard, thin, +and wedge-like as the Ecrins had looked from afar, it had never looked so +hard and so thin as it did when we emerged from the top of the couloir +through the gap in the ridge. No tender shadows spoke of broad and rounded +ridges, but sharp and shadowless its serrated edges stood out against the +clear sky.(110) It had been said that the route must be taken by one of +the ridges of the final peak, but both were alike repellent, hacked and +notched in numberless places. They reminded me of my failure on the Dent +d'Herens in 1863, and of a place on a similar ridge, from which advance or +retreat was alike difficult. But, presuming one or other of these ridges +or aretes was practicable, there remained the task of getting to them, for +completely round the base of the final peak swept an enormous bergschrund, +almost separating it from the slopes which lay beneath. It was evident +thus early that the ascent would not be accomplished without exertion, and +that it would demand all our faculties and all our time. In more than one +respect we were favoured. The mists were gone, the day was bright and +perfectly calm; there had been a long stretch of fine weather beforehand, +and the snow was in excellent order; and, most important of all, the last +new snow which had fallen on the final peak, unable to support itself, had +broken away and rolled in a mighty avalanche, over schrund, neve, seracs, +over hills and valleys in the glacier (levelling one and filling the +other), completely down to the summit of the Col des Ecrins, where it lay +in huge jammed masses, powerless to harm us; and had made a broad track, +almost a road, over which, for part of the way at least, we might advance +with rapidity. + +We took in all this in a few minutes, and seeing there was no time to be +lost, despatched a hasty meal, left knapsacks, provisions, and all +incumbrances by the Col, started again at half-past six, and made direct +for the left side of the schrund, for it was there alone that a passage +was practicable. We crossed it at 8.10. Our route can now be followed upon +the annexed outline. The arrow marked *D* points out the direction of the +Glacier de la Bonne Pierre. The ridge in front, that extends right across, +is the ridge that is partially shown on the top of the map at p. 146, +leading from Roche Faurio towards the W.N.W. We arrived upon the plateau +of the Glacier de l'Encula, behind this ridge, from the direction of *D*, +and then made a nearly straight track to the left hand of the bergschrund +at *A*. + + [Illustration: Outline to show route up Pointe des Ecrins] + +Thus far there was no trouble, but the nature of the work changed +immediately. If we regard the upper 700 feet alone of the final peak of +the Ecrins, it may be described as a three-sided pyramid. One face is +towards the Glacier Noir, and forms one of the sheerest precipices in the +Alps. Another is towards the Glacier du Vallon, and is less steep, and +less uniform in angle than the first. The third is towards the Glacier de +l'Encula, and it was by this one we approached the summit. Imagine a +triangular plane, 700 or 800 feet high, set at an angle exceeding 50 deg.; let +it be smooth, glassy; let the uppermost edges be cut into spikes and +teeth, and let them be bent, some one way, some another. Let the glassy +face be covered with minute fragments of rock, scarcely attached, but +varnished with ice; imagine this, and then you will have a very faint idea +of the face of the Ecrins on which we stood. It was not possible to avoid +detaching stones, which, as they fell, cause words unmentionable to rise. +The greatest friends would have reviled each other in such a situation. We +gained the eastern arete, and endeavoured for half-an-hour to work upwards +towards the summit; but it was useless (each yard of progress cost an +incredible time); and having no desire to form the acquaintance of the +Glacier Noir in a precipitate manner, we beat a retreat, and returned to +the schrund. We again held a council, and it was unanimously decided that +we should be beaten if we could not cut along the upper edge of the +schrund, and, when nearly beneath the summit, work up to it. So Croz took +off his coat and went to work;--on ice,--not that black ice so often +mentioned and so seldom seen, but on ice as hard as ice could be. Weary +work for the guides. Croz cut for more than half-an-hour, and we did not +seem to have advanced at all. Some one behind, seeing how great the labour +was, and how slow the progress, suggested that after all we might do +better on the arete. Croz's blood was up, and indignant at this slight on +his powers, he ceased working, turned in his steps, and rushed towards me +with a haste that made me shudder: "By all means let us go there, the +sooner the better." No slight was intended, and he resumed his work, after +a time being relieved by Almer. Half-past ten came; an hour had passed; +they were still cutting. Dreary work for us, for no capering about could +be done here; hand as well as foot holes were necessary; the fingers and +toes got very cold; the ice, as it boomed in bounding down the +bergschrund, was very suggestive; conversation was very restricted, +separated as we were by our tether of 20 feet apiece. Another hour passed. +We were now almost immediately below the summit, and we stopped to look +up. We were nearly as far off it (vertically) as we had been more than +three hours before. The day seemed going against us. The only rocks near +at hand were scattered; no bigger than tea-cups, and most of these, we +found afterwards, were glazed with ice. Time forbade cutting right up to +the summit, even had it been possible, which it was not. We decided to go +up to the ridge again by means of the rocks; but had we not had a certain +confidence in each other, it unquestionably would not have been done; for +this, it must be understood, was a situation where not only _might_ a slip +have been fatal to every one, but it would have been so beyond doubt: +nothing, moreover, was easier than to make one. It was a place where all +had to work in unison, where there must be no slackening of the rope, and +no unnecessary tension. For another hour we were in this trying situation, +and at 12.30 we gained the arete again at a much higher point (*B*), close +to the summit. Our men were, I am afraid, well-nigh worn out. Cutting up a +couloir 1000 feet high was not the right sort of preparation for work of +this kind. Be it so or not, we were all glad to rest for a short time, for +we had not sat down a minute since leaving the col six hours before. +Almer, however, was restless, knowing that midday was past, and that much +remained to be accomplished, and untied himself, and commenced working +towards the summit. Connecting the teeth of rock were beds of snow, and +Almer, only a few feet from me, was crossing the top of one of these, when +suddenly, without a moment's warning, it broke away under him, and plunged +down on to the glacier. As he staggered for a second, one foot in the act +of stepping, and the other on the falling mass, I thought him lost; but he +happily fell on to the right side and stopped himself. Had he taken the +step with his right instead of the left foot, he would, in all +probability, have fallen several hundred feet without touching anything, +and would not have been arrested before reaching the glacier, a vertical +distance of at least 3000 feet. + +Small, ridiculously small, as the distance was to the summit, we were +occupied nearly another hour before it was gained. Almer was a few feet in +front, and he, with characteristic modesty, hesitated to step on the +highest point, and drew back to allow us to pass. A cry was raised for +Croz, who had done the chief part of the work, but he declined the honour, +and we marched on to the top simultaneously; that is to say, clustered +round it, a yard or two below, for it was much too small to get upon. + +According to my custom, I bagged a piece from off the highest rock +(chlorite slate), and I found afterwards that it had a striking similarity +to the final peak of the Ecrins. I have noticed the same thing on other +occasions,(111) and it is worthy of remark that not only do fragments of +such rock as limestone often present the characteristic forms of the +cliffs from which they have been broken, but that morsels of mica slate +will represent, in a wonderful manner, the identical shape of the peaks of +which they have formed part. Why should it not be so if the mountain's +mass is more or less homogeneous? The same causes which produce the small +forms fashion the large ones; the same influences are at work; the same +frost and rain give shape to the mass as well as to its parts. + + [Illustration: FRAGMENT FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE POINTE DES ECRINS.] + +Did space permit me, I could give a very poor idea of the view, but it +will be readily imagined that a panorama extending over as much ground as +the whole of England is one worth taking some trouble to see, and one +which is not often to be seen even in the Alps. No clouds obscured it, and +a list of the summits that we saw would include nearly all the highest +peaks of the chain. I saw the Pelvoux now--as I had seen the Ecrins from it +three years before--across the basin of the Glacier Noir. It is a splendid +mountain, although in height it is equalled, if not surpassed, by its +neighbour the Alefroide. + +We could stay on the summit only a short time, and at a quarter to two +prepared for the descent. Now, as we looked down, and thought of what we +had passed over in coming up, we one and all hesitated about returning the +same way. Moore said, no. Walker said the same, and I too; the guides were +both of the same mind: this, be it remarked, although we had considered +that there was no chance whatever of getting up any other way. But those +"last rocks" were not to be forgotten. Had they only protruded to a +moderate extent, or had they been merely glazed, we should doubtless still +have tried: but they were not reasonable rocks,--they would neither allow +us to hold, nor would do it themselves. So we turned to the western arete, +trusting to luck that we should find a way down to the schrund, and some +means of getting over it afterwards. Our faces were a tolerable index to +our thoughts, and apparently the thoughts of the party were not happy +ones. Had any one then said to me, "You are a great fool for coming here," +I should have answered with humility, "It is too true." And had my monitor +gone on to say, "Swear you will never ascend another mountain if you get +down safely," I am inclined to think I should have taken the oath. In +fact, the game here was not worth the risk. The guides felt it as well as +ourselves, and as Almer led off, he remarked, with more piety than logic, +"The good God has brought us up, and he will take us down in safety," +which showed pretty well what _he_ was thinking about. + +The ridge down which we now endeavoured to make our way was not inferior +in difficulty to the other. But were serrated to an extent that made it +impossible to keep strictly to them, and obliged us to descend +occasionally for some distance on the northern face and then mount again. +Both were so rotten that the most experienced of our party, as well as the +least, continually upset blocks large and small. Both aretes were so +narrow, so thin, that it was often a matter for speculation on which side +an unstable block would fall. + +At one point it seemed that we should be obliged to return to the summit +and try the other way down. We were on the very edge of the arete. On one +side was the enormous precipice facing the Pelvoux, which is not far from +perpendicular; on the other a slope exceeding 50 deg.. A deep notch brought us +to an abrupt halt. Almer, who was leading, advanced cautiously to the edge +on hands and knees, and peered over; his care was by no means unnecessary, +for the rocks had broken away from under us unexpectedly several times. In +this position he gazed down for some moments, and then, without a word, +turned his head and looked at us. His face _may_ have expressed +apprehension or alarm, but it certainly did not show hope or joy. We +learned that there was no means of getting down, and that we must, if we +wanted to pass the notch, jump across on to an unstable block on the other +side. It was decided that it should be done, and Almer, with a larger +extent of rope than usual, jumped. The rock swayed as he came down upon +it, but he clutched a large mass with both arms and brought himself to +anchor. That which was both difficult and dangerous for the first man was +easy enough for the others, and we got across with less trouble than I +expected; stimulated by Croz's perfectly just observation, that if we +couldn't get across there we were not likely to get down the other way. + +We had now arrived at *C* and could no longer continue on the arete, so we +commenced descending the face again. Before long we were close to the +schrund, but unable to see what it was like at this part, as the upper +edge bent over. Two hours had already passed since leaving the summit, and +it began to be highly probable that we should have to spend a night on the +Glacier Blanc. Almer, who yet led, cut steps right down to the edge, but +still he could not see below; therefore, warning us to hold tight, he made +his whole body rigid, and (standing in the large step which he had cut for +the purpose), had the upper part of his person lowered out until he saw +what he wanted. He shouted that our work was finished, made me come close +to the edge and untie myself, advanced the others until he had rope +enough, and then with a loud _joedel_ jumped down on to soft snow. Partly +by skill and partly by luck he had hit the crevasse at its easiest point, +and we had only to make a downward jump of eight or ten feet. + +We had been more than eight hours and a half accomplishing the ascent of +the final peak, which, according to an observation by Mr. Bonney in 1862, +is only 525 feet high.(112) During this period we had not stopped for more +than half-an-hour, and our nerves and muscles had been kept at the highest +degree of tension the whole time. It may be imagined that we accepted the +ordinary conditions of glacier travelling as an agreeable relief, and that +that which at another time might have seemed formidable we treated as the +veriest bagatelle. Late in the day as it was, and soft as was the snow, we +put on such pace that we reached the Col des Ecrins in less than forty +minutes. We lost no time in arranging our baggage, for we had still to +traverse a long glacier, and to get clear of two ice-falls before it was +dark; so, at 5.35 we resumed the march, adjourning eating and drinking, +and put on a spurt which took us clear of the Glacier Blanc by 7.45 +P.M.(113) We got off the moraine of the Glacier Noir at 8.45, just as the +last remnant of daylight vanished. Croz and myself were a trifle in +advance of the others, and fortunately so for us; for as they were about +to commence the descent of the snout of the glacier, the whole of the +moraine that rested on its face peeled off, and came down with a +tremendous roar. + +We had now the pleasure of walking over a plain that is known by the name +of the Pre de Madame Carle, covered with pebbles of all sizes, and +intersected by numerous small streams or torrents. Every hole looked like +a stone, every stone like a hole, and we tumbled about from side to side +until our limbs and our tempers became thoroughly jaded. My companions, +being both short-sighted, found the travelling especially disagreeable; so +there was little wonder that when we came upon a huge mass of rock as big +as a house, which had fallen from the flanks of Pelvoux, a regular cube +that offered no shelter whatever, Moore cried out in ecstasy, "Oh, how +delightful! the very thing I have been longing for. Let us have a +perfectly extemporaneous bivouac." This, it should be said, was when the +night threatened thunder and lightning, rain, and all other delights. + +The pleasures of a perfectly extemporaneous bivouac under these +circumstances not being novelties to Croz and myself, we thought we would +try for the miseries of a roof; but Walker and Almer, with their usual +good nature, declared it was the very thing that they, too, were longing +for; so the trio resolved to stop. We generously left them all the +provisions (a dozen cubic inches or thereabouts of bacon fat, and half a +candle), and pushed on for the chalets of Alefroide, or at least we +thought we did, but could not be certain. In the course of half-an-hour we +got uncommonly close to the main torrent, and Croz all at once +disappeared. I stepped cautiously forward to peer down into the place +where I thought he was, and quietly tumbled head over heels into a big +rhododendron bush. Extricating myself with some trouble, I fell backwards +over some rocks, and got wedged in a cleft so close to the torrent that it +splashed all over me. + +The colloquy which then ensued amid the thundering of the stream was as +follows:-- + +"Hullo, Croz!" "Eh, Monsieur." "Where _are_ you?" "Here, Monsieur." "Where +_is_ here?" "I don't know; where are _you_?" "Here, Croz;" and so on. + +The fact was, from the intense darkness, and the noise of the torrent, we +had no idea of each other's situation. In the course of ten minutes, +however, we joined together again, agreed we had had quite enough of that +kind of thing, and adjourned to a most eligible rock at 10.15. + +How well I remember the night at that rock, and the jolly way in which +Croz came out! We were both very wet about the legs, and both uncommonly +hungry, but the time passed pleasantly enough round our fire of juniper, +and until long past midnight we sat up recounting, over our pipes, +wonderful stories of the most incredible description, in which I must +admit, my companion beat me hollow. Then throwing ourselves on our beds of +rhododendron, we slept an untroubled sleep, and rose on a bright Sunday +morning as fresh as might be, intending to enjoy a day's rest and luxury +with our friends at La Ville de Val Louise. + + [Illustration: A NIGHT WITH CROZ.] + +I have failed to give the impression I wish if it has not been made +evident that the ascent of the Pointe des Ecrins was not an ordinary piece +of work. There is an increasing disposition now-a-days amongst those who +write on the Alps, to underrate the difficulties and dangers which are met +with, and this disposition is, I think, not less mischievous than the +old-fashioned style of making everything terrible. Difficult as we found +the peak, I believe we took it at the best, perhaps the only possible, +time of the year. The great slope on which we spent so much time was, from +being denuded by the avalanche of which I have spoken, deprived of its +greatest danger. Had it had the snow still resting upon it, and had we +persevered with the expedition, we should almost without doubt have ended +with calamity instead of success. The ice of that slope is always below, +its angle is severe, and the rocks do not project sufficiently to afford +the support that snow requires, to be stable, when at a great angle. So +far am I from desiring to tempt any one to repeat the expedition, that I +put it on record as my belief, however sad and however miserable a man may +have been, if he is found on the summit of the Pointe des Ecrins after a +fall of new snow, he is likely to experience misery far deeper than +anything with which he has hitherto been acquainted.(114) + + + + + + CHAPTER IX. + + + FROM VAL LOUISE TO LA BERARDE BY THE COL DE PILATTE.(115) + + + "How pleasant it is for him who is saved to remember his + danger." + EURIPIDES. + + +From Ailefroide to Claux, but for the path, travel would be scarcely more +easy than over the Pre de Madame Carle.(116) The valley is strewn with +immense masses of gneiss, from the size of a large house downwards, and it +is only occasionally that rock _in situ_ is seen, so covered up is it by +the debris, which seems to have been derived almost entirely from the +neighbouring cliffs. + +It was Sunday, a "day most calm and bright." Golden sunlight had dispersed +the clouds, and was glorifying the heights, and we forgot hunger through +the brilliancy of the morning and beauty of the mountains. + +We meant the 26th to be a day of rest, but it was little that we found in +the _cabaret_ of Claude Giraud, and we fled before the babel of sound +which rose in intensity as men descended to a depth which is unattainable +by the beasts of the field, and found at the chalets of Entraigues(117) +the peace that had been denied to us at Val Louise. + +Again we were received with the most cordial hospitality. Everything that +was eatable or drinkable was brought out and pressed upon us; every little +curiosity was exhibited; every information that could be afforded was +given; and when we retired to our clean straw, we again congratulated each +other that we had escaped from the foul den which is where a good inn +should be, and had cast in our lot with those who dwell in chalets. Very +luxurious that straw seemed after two nights upon quartz pebbles and +glacier mud, and I felt quite aggrieved (expecting it was the summons for +departure) when, about midnight, the heavy wooden door creaked on its +hinges, and a man hem'd and ha'd to attract attention; but when it +whispered, "Monsieur Edvard," I perceived my mistake,--it was our Pelvoux +companion, Monsieur Reynaud, the excellent _agent-voyer_ of La Bessee. + +Monsieur Reynaud had been invited to accompany us on the excursion that is +described in this chapter, but had arrived at Val Louise after we had +left, and had energetically pursued us during the night. Our idea was that +a pass might be made over the high ridge called (on the French map) Crete +de Boeufs Rouges,(118) near to the peak named Les Bans, and that it might +be the shortest route in time (as it certainly would be in distance) from +Val Louise, across the Central Dauphine Alps. We had seen the northern (or +Pilatte) side from the Breche de la Meije, and it seemed to be practicable +at one place near the above-mentioned mountain. More than that could not +be told at a distance of eleven miles. We intended to try to hit a point +on the ridge immediately above the part where it seemed to be easiest. + +We left Entraigues at 3.30 on the morning of June 27, and proceeded, over +very gently-inclined ground, towards the foot of the Pic de Bonvoisin +(following in fact the route of the Col de Sellar, which leads from the +Val Louise into the Val Godemar);(119) and at 5 A.M., finding that there +was no chance of obtaining a view from the bottom of the valley of the +ridge over which our route was to be taken, sent Almer up the lower slopes +of the Bonvoisin to reconnoitre. He telegraphed that we might proceed; and +at 5.45 we quitted the snow-beds at the bottom of the valley for the +slopes which rose towards the north. + +The course was N.N.W., and was prodigiously steep. _In less than two miles +difference of latitude we rose one mile of absolute height._ But the route +was so far from being an exceptionally difficult one, that at 10.45 we +stood on the summit of the pass, having made an ascent of more than 5000 +feet in five hours, inclusive of halts. + +Upon sheet 189 of the French map a glacier is laid down on the south of +the Crete des Boeufs Rouges, extending along the entire length of the +ridge, at its foot, from east to west. In 1864 this glacier did not exist +as _one_ glacier, but in the place where it should have been there were +several small ones, all of which were, I believe, separated from each +other.(120) + +We commenced the ascent from the Val d'Entraigues, to the west of the most +western of these small glaciers, and quitted the valley by the first great +gap in its cliffs after that glacier was passed. We did not take to the +ice until it afforded an easier route than the rocks; then (8.30) Croz +went to the front, and led with admirable skill through a maze of +crevasses up to the foot of a great snow _couloir_, that rose from the +head of the glacier to the summit of the ridge over which we had to pass. + +We had settled beforehand in London, without knowing anything whatever +about the place, that such a couloir as this should be in this angle; but +when we got into the Val d'Entraigues, and found that it was not possible +to see into the corner, our faith in its existence became less and less, +until the telegraphing of Almer, who was sent up the opposite slopes to +search for it, assured us that we were true prophets. + + [Illustration: A SNOW COULOIR.] + +Snow _couloirs_ are nothing more or less than gullies partly filled by +snow. They are most useful institutions, and may be considered as natural +highways placed, by a kind Providence, in convenient situations for +getting over places which would otherwise be inaccessible. They are a joy +to the mountaineer, and, from afar, assure him of a path when all beside +is uncertain; but they are grief to novices, who, when upon steep snow, +are usually seized with two notions--first, that the snow will slip, and +secondly, that those who are upon it must slip too. + +Nothing, perhaps, could look much more unpromising to those who do not +know the virtues of couloirs than such a place as the engraving +represents,(121) and if persons inexperienced in mountain craft had +occasion to cross a ridge or to climb rocks, in which there were such +couloirs, they would instinctively avoid them. But practised mountaineers +would naturally look to them for a path, and would follow them almost as a +matter of course, unless they turned out to be filled with ice, or too +much swept by falling stones, or the rock at the sides proved to be of +such an exceptional character as to afford an easier path than the snow. + +Couloirs look prodigiously steep when seen from the front, and, so viewed, +it is impossible to be certain of their inclination within many degrees. +Snow, however, does actually lie at steeper angles in couloirs than in any +other situations;--45 deg. to 50 deg. degrees is not an uncommon inclination. Even +at such angles, two men with proper axes can mount on snow at the rate of +700 to 800 feet per hour. The same amount can only be accomplished in the +same time on steep rocks when they are of the very easiest character, and +four or five hours may be readily spent upon an equal height of difficult +rocks. Snow couloirs are therefore to be commended because they economise +time. + +Of course, in all gullies, one is liable to be encountered by falling +stones. Most of those which fall from the rocks of a couloir, sooner or +later spin down the snow which fills the trough; and, as their course and +pace are more clearly apparent when falling over snow than when jumping +from ledge to ledge, persons with lively imaginations are readily +impressed by them. The grooves which are usually seen wandering down the +length of snow couloirs are deepened (and, perhaps, occasionally +originated) by falling stones, and they are sometimes pointed out by +cautious men as reasons why couloirs should not be followed. I think they +are very frequently only gutters, caused by water trickling off the rocks. +Whether this is so or not, one should always consider the possibility of +being struck by falling stones, and, in order to lessen the risk as far as +possible, should mount upon the sides of the snow, and not up its centre. +Stones that come off the rocks will then generally fly over one's head, or +bound down the middle of the trough at a safe distance. + +At 9.30 A.M. we commenced the ascent of the couloir leading from the +nameless glacier to a point in the ridge, just to the east of Mont +Bans.(122) So far the route had been nothing more than a steep grind in an +angle where little could be seen, but now views opened out in several +directions, and the way began to be interesting. It was more so, perhaps, +to us than to our companion M. Reynaud, who had no rest in the last night. +He was, moreover, heavily laden. Science was to be regarded--his pockets +were stuffed with books; heights and angles were to be observed--his +knapsack was filled with instruments; hunger was to be guarded against--his +shoulders were ornamented with a huge nimbus of bread, and a leg of mutton +swung behind from his knapsack, looking like an overgrown tail. Being a +good-hearted fellow, he had brought this food, thinking we might be in +need of it. As it happened, we were well provided for, and having our own +packs to carry, could not relieve him of his superfluous burdens, which, +naturally, he did not like to throw away. As the angles steepened, the +strain on his strength became more and more apparent. At last he began to +groan. At first a most gentle and mellow groan; but as we rose so did his +groans, till at last the cliffs were groaning in echo, and we were moved +to laughter. + +Croz cut the way with unflagging energy throughout the whole of the +ascent, and at 10.45 we stood on the summit of our pass, intending to +refresh ourselves with a good halt. Unhappily, at that moment a mist, +which had been playing about the ridge, swooped down and blotted out the +whole of the view on the northern side. Croz was the only one who caught a +glimpse of the descent, and it was deemed advisable to push on +immediately, while its recollection was fresh in his memory. We are +consequently unable to tell anything about the summit of the pass, except +that it lies immediately to the east of Mont Bans, and is elevated about +11,300 feet above the level of the sea. It is the highest pass in +Dauphine. We called it the Col de Pilatte. + +We commenced to descend towards the Glacier de Pilatte by a slope of +smooth ice, the face of which, according to the measurement of Mr. Moore, +had an inclination of 54 deg.! Croz still led, and the others followed at +intervals of about 15 feet, all being tied together, and Almer occupying +the responsible position of last man. The two guides were therefore about +70 feet apart. They were quite invisible to each other from the mist, and +looked spectral even to us. But the _strong_ man could be heard by all +hewing out the steps below, while every now and then the voice of the +_steady_ man pierced the cloud,--"Slip not, dear sirs; place well your +feet: stir not until you are certain." + +For three quarters of an hour we progressed in this fashion. The axe of +Croz all at once stopped. "What is the matter, Croz?" "Bergschrund, +gentlemen." "Can we get over?" "Upon my word, I don't know; I think we +must jump." The clouds rolled away right and left as he spoke. The effect +was dramatic! It was a _coup de theatre_, preparatory to the "great +sensation leap" which was about to be executed by the entire company. + +Some unseen cause, some cliff or obstruction in the rocks underneath, had +caused our wall of ice to split into two portions, and the huge fissure +which had thus been formed extended, on each hand, as far as could be +seen. We, on the slope above, were separated from the slope below by a +mighty crevasse. No running up and down to look for an easier place to +cross could be done on an ice-slope of 54 deg.; the chasm had to be passed +then and there. + +A downward jump of 15 or 16 feet, and a forward leap of 7 or 8 feet had to +be made at the same time. That is not much, you will say. It was not much; +it was not the quantity, but it was the quality of the jump which gave to +it its particular flavour. You had to hit a narrow ridge of ice. If that +was passed, it seemed as if you might roll down for ever and ever. If it +was not attained, you dropped into the crevasse below; which, although +partly choked by icicles and snow that had fallen from above, was still +gaping in many places, ready to receive an erratic body. + +Croz untied Walker in order to get rope enough, and warning us to hold +fast, sprang over the chasm. He alighted cleverly on his feet; untied +himself and sent up the rope to Walker, who followed his example. It was +then my turn, and I advanced to the edge of the ice. The second which +followed was what is called a supreme moment. That is to say, I felt +supremely ridiculous. The world seemed to revolve at a frightful pace, and +my stomach to fly away. The next moment I found myself sprawling in the +snow, and then, of course, vowed that _it was nothing_, and prepared to +encourage my friend Reynaud. + +He came to the edge and made declarations. I do not believe that he was a +whit more reluctant to pass the place than we others, but he was +infinitely more demonstrative,--in a word, he was French. He wrung his +hands, "Oh! what a _diable_ of a place!" "It is nothing, Reynaud," I said, +"it is _nothing_." "Jump," cried the others, "jump." But he turned round, +as far as one can do such a thing in an ice-step, and covered his face +with his hands, ejaculating, "Upon my word, it is not possible. No! no!! +no!!! it is not possible." + +How he came over I do not know. We saw a toe--it seemed to belong to Moore; +we saw Reynaud a flying body, coming down as if taking a header into +water; with arms and legs all abroad, his leg of mutton flying in the air, +his baton escaped from his grasp; and then we heard a thud as if a bundle +of carpets had been pitched out of a window. When set upon his feet he was +a sorry spectacle; his head was a great snowball; brandy was trickling out +of one side of the knapsack, chartreuse out of the other--we bemoaned its +loss, but we roared with laughter. + + + +This chapter has already passed the limits within which it should have +been confined, but I cannot close it without paying tribute to the ability +with which Croz led us, through a dense mist, down the remainder of the +Glacier de Pilatte. As an exhibition of strength and skill, it has +probably never been surpassed in the Alps or elsewhere. On this almost +unknown and very steep glacier, he was perfectly at home, even in the +mists. Never able to see fifty feet ahead, he still went on with the +utmost certainty, and without having to retrace a single step; and +displayed from first to last consummate knowledge of the materials with +which he was dealing. Now he cut steps down one side of a _serac_, went +with a dash at the other side, and hauled us up after him; then cut away +along a ridge until a point was gained from which we could jump on to +another ridge; then, doubling back, found a snow-bridge, across which he +crawled on hands and knees, towed us across by the legs, ridiculing our +apprehensions, mimicking our awkwardness, declining all help, bidding us +only to follow him. + +About 1 P.M. we emerged from the mist and found ourselves just arrived +upon the level portion of the glacier, having, as Reynaud properly +remarked, come down as quickly as if there had not been any mist at all. +Then we attacked the leg of mutton which my friend had so thoughtfully +brought with him, and afterwards raced down, with renewed energy, to La +Berarde. + +Reynaud and I walked together to St. Christophe, where we parted. Since +then we have talked over the doings of this momentous day; and I know that +he would not, for a good deal, have missed the passage of the Col de +Pilatte, although we failed to make it an easier or a shorter route than +the Col du Sele. I rejoined Moore and Walker, the same evening, at Venos, +and on the next day went with them over the Lautaret road to the hospice +on its summit, where we slept. + +So our little campaign in Dauphine came to an end. It was remarkable for +the absence of failures, and for the ease and precision with which all our +plans were carried out. This was due very much to the spirit of my +companions; but it was also owing to the fine weather which we were +fortunate enough to enjoy, and to our making a very early start every +morning. By beginning our work at or before the break of day, on the +longest days in the year, we were not only able to avoid hurrying when +deliberation was desirable, but could afford to spend several hours in +delightful ease whenever the fancy seized us. + +I cannot too strongly recommend to tourists in search of amusement to +avoid the inns of Dauphine. Sleep in the chalets. Get what food you can +from the inns, but do not as a rule attempt to pass nights in them.(123) +_Sleep_ in them you cannot. M. Joanne says that the inventor of the +insecticide powder was a native of Dauphine. I can well believe it. He +must have often felt the necessity of such an invention in his infancy and +childhood. + +On June 29 I crossed the Col du Galibier to St. Michel; on the 30th, the +Col des Encombres to Moutiers; on July 1, the Col du Bonhomme to +Contamines; and on the 2d, by the Pavilion de Bellevue to Chamounix, where +I joined Mr. Adams-Reilly to take part in some expeditions which had been +planned long before. + + + + + + CHAPTER X. + + +THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DE TRIOLET, AND FIRST ASCENTS OF MONT DOLENT, + AIGUILLE DE TRELATETE, AND AIGUILLE D'ARGENTIERE. + + + "Nothing binds men so closely together as agreement in plans and + desires." + CICERO. + + +A few years ago not many persons knew from personal knowledge how +extremely inaccurately the chain of Mont Blanc was delineated. In the +earlier part of the century thousands had made the tour of the chain, and +before the year 1860 at least _one_ thousand individuals had stood upon +its highest summit; but out of all this number there was not one capable, +willing, or able, to map the mountain which, until recently, was regarded +the highest in Europe. + +Many persons knew that great blunders had been perpetrated, and it was +notorious that even Mont Blanc itself was represented in a ludicrously +incorrect manner on all sides excepting the north; but there was not, +perhaps, a single individual who knew, at the time to which I refer, that +errors of no less than 1000 feet had been committed in the determination +of heights at each end of the chain; that some glaciers were represented +of double their real dimensions; and that ridges and mountains were laid +down which actually had no existence. + +One portion alone of the entire chain had been surveyed at the time of +which I speak with anything like accuracy. It was not done (as one would +have expected) by a Government, but by a private individual,--by the +British De Saussure,--the late J. D. Forbes. In the year 1842, he "made a +special survey of the Mer de Glace of Chamounix and its tributaries, +which, in some of the following years, he extended by further +observations, so as to include the Glacier des Bossons." The map produced +from this survey was worthy of its author; and subsequent explorers of the +region he investigated have been able to detect only trivial inaccuracies +in his work. + +In 1861, Sheet xxii. of Dufour's Map of Switzerland appeared. It included +the section of the chain of Mont Blanc that belonged to Switzerland, and +this portion of the sheet was executed with the admirable fidelity and +thoroughness which characterise the whole of Dufour's unique map. The +remainder of the chain (amounting to about four-fifths of the whole) was +laid down after the work of previous topographers, and its wretchedness +was made more apparent by contrast with the finished work of the Swiss +surveyors. + +In 1863, Mr. Adams-Reilly, who had been travelling in the Alps during +several years, resolved to attempt a survey of the unsurveyed portions of +the chain of Mont Blanc. He provided himself with a good theodolite, and +starting from a base-line measured by Forbes in the Valley of Chamounix, +determined the positions of no less than 200 points. The accuracy of his +work may be judged from the fact that, after having turned many corners +and carried his observations over a distance of fifty miles, his Col +Ferret "fell within 200 yards of the position assigned to it by General +Dufour!" + +In the winter of 1863 and the spring of 1864, Mr. Reilly constructed an +entirely original map from his newly-acquired data. The spaces between his +trigonometrically determined points he filled in after photographs, and a +series of panoramic sketches which he made from his different stations. +The map so produced was an immense advance upon those already in +existence, and it was the first which exhibited the great peaks in their +proper positions. + +This extraordinary piece of work revealed Mr. Reilly to me as a man of +wonderful determination and perseverance. With very small hope that my +proposal would be accepted, I invited him to take part in renewed attacks +on the Matterhorn. He entered heartily into my plans, and met me with a +counter-proposition, namely, that I should accompany him on some +expeditions which he had projected in the chain of Mont Blanc. The +unwritten contract took this form:--I will help you to carry out your +desires, and you shall assist me to carry out mine. I eagerly closed with +an arrangement in which all the advantages were upon my side. + +At the time that Mr. Reilly was carrying on his survey, Captain Mieulet +was executing another in continuation of the great map of France; for +about one-half of the chain of Mont Blanc (including the whole of the +valley of Chamounix) had recently become French once more. Captain Mieulet +was directed to survey up to his frontier only, and the sheet which was +destined to include his work was to be engraved, of course, upon the scale +of the rest of the map, viz., 1/80000 of nature. But upon representations +being made at head-quarters that it would be of great advantage to extend +the survey as far as Courmayeur, Captain Mieulet was directed to continue +his observations into the south (or Italian) side of the chain. A special +sheet on the scale of 1/40000 was promptly engraved from the materials he +accumulated, and was published in 1865, by order of the late Minister of +War, Marshal Randon.(124) This sheet was admirably executed, but it +included the central portion of the chain only, and a complete map was +still wanting. + +Mr. Reilly presented his MS. map to the English Alpine Club. It was +resolved that it should be published; but before it passed into the +engraver's hands its author undertook to revise it carefully. To this end +he planned a number of expeditions to high points which up to that time +had been regarded inaccessible, and upon some of these ascents he invited +me to accompany him. Before I pass on to these expeditions, it will be +convenient to devote a few lines to the topography of the chain of Mont +Blanc. + +At the present time the chain is divided betwixt France, Switzerland, and +Italy. France has the lion's share, Switzerland the most fertile portion, +and Italy the steepest side. It has acquired a reputation which is not +extraordinary, but which is not wholly merited. It has neither the beauty +of the Oberland, nor the sublimity of Dauphine. It attracts the vulgar by +the possession of the highest summit in the Alps. If that is removed, the +elevation of the chain is in nowise remarkable. In fact, excluding Mont +Blanc itself, the mountains of which the chain is made up are less +important than those of the Oberland and the central Pennine groups. The +following table will afford a ready means of comparison.(125) + + Metres. Eng. feet(126) + 1. Mont Blanc 4810 = 15,781 + 2. Grandes Jorasses 4206 . 13,800 + 3. Aiguille Verte 4127 . 13,540 + 4. Aiguille de Bionnassay 4061 . 13,324 + 5. Les Droites 4030 . 13,222 + 6. Aiguille du Geant 4010 . 13,157 + 7. Aiguille de Trelatete, No. 1 3932 . 12,900 + Aiguille de Trelatete, No. 2 3904 . 12,809 + Aiguille de Trelatete, No. 3 3896 . 12,782 + 8. Aiguille d'Argentiere 3901 . 12,799 + 9. Aiguille de Triolet 3879 . 12,726 +10. Aiguille du Midi 3843 . 12,608 +11. Aiguille du Glacier 3834 . 12,579 +12. Mont Dolent 3830 . 12,566 +13. Aiguille du Chardonnet 3823 . 12,543 +14. Aiguille du Dru 3815 . 12,517 +15. Aiguille de Miage 3680 . 12,074 +16. Aiguille du Plan 3673 . 12,051 +17. Aiguille de Blaitiere 3533 . 11,591 +18. Aiguille des Charmoz 3442 . 11,293 + +The frontier-line follows the main ridge. Very little of it can be seen +from the Valley of Chamounix, and from the village itself two small strips +only are visible (amounting to scarcely three miles in length)--viz. from +the summit of Mont Blanc to the Dome du Gouter, and in the neighbourhood +of the Col de Balme. All the rest is concealed by outlying ridges and by +mountains of secondary importance. + +Mont Blanc itself is bounded by the two glaciers of Miage, the glaciers de +la Brenva and du Geant, the Val Veni and the Valley of Chamounix. A long +ridge runs out towards the N.N.E. from the summit, through Mont Maudit, to +the Aiguille du Midi. Another ridge proceeds towards the N.W., through the +Bosse du Dromadaire to the Dome du Gouter; this then divides into two, of +which one continues N.W. to the Aiguille du Gouter, and the other (which +is a part of the main ridge of the chain) towards the W. to the Aiguille +de Bionnassay. The two routes which are commonly followed for the ascent +of Mont Blanc lie between these two principal ridges--one leading from +Chamounix, _via_ the Grands Mulets, the other from the village of +Bionnassay, _via_ the Aiguille and Dome du Gouter. + +The ascent of Mont Blanc has been made from several directions besides +these, and perhaps there is no single point of the compass from which the +mountain cannot be ascended. But there is not the least probability that +any one will discover easier ways to the summit than those already known. + +I believe it is correct to say that the Aiguille du Midi and the Aiguille +de Miage were the only two summits in the chain of Mont Blanc which had +been ascended at the beginning of 1864.(127) The latter of these two is a +perfectly insignificant point; and the former is only a portion of one of +the ridges just now mentioned, and can hardly be regarded as a mountain +separate and distinct from Mont Blanc. The really great peaks of the chain +were considered inaccessible, and, I think, with the exception of the +Aiguille Verte, had never been assailed. + +The finest, as well as the highest peak in the chain (after Mont Blanc +itself), is the Grandes Jorasses. The next, without a doubt, is the +Aiguille Verte. The Aiguille de Bionnassay, which in actual height follows +the Verte, should be considered as a part of Mont Blanc; and in the same +way the summit called Les Droites is only a part of the ridge which +culminates in the Verte. The Aiguille de Trelatete is the next on the list +that is entitled to be considered a separate mountain, and is by far the +most important peak (as well as the highest) at the south-west end of the +chain. Then comes the Aiguille d'Argentiere, which occupies the same rank +at the north-east end as the last-mentioned mountain does in the +south-west. The rest of the aiguilles are comparatively insignificant; and +although some of them (such as the Mont Dolent) look well from low +elevations, and seem to possess a certain importance, they sink into their +proper places directly one arrives at a considerable altitude. + +The summit of the Aiguille Verte would have been one of the best stations +out of all these mountains for the purposes of my friend. Its great +height, and its isolated and commanding position, make it a most admirable +point for viewing the intricacies of the chain; but he exercised a wise +discretion in passing it by, and in selecting as our first excursion the +passage of the Col de Triolet.(128) + +We slept under some big rocks on the Couvercle on the night of July 7, +with the thermometer at 26.5 Faht., and at 4.30 on the 8th made a straight +track to the north of the Jardin, and thence went in zigzags, to break the +ascent, over the upper slopes of the Glacier de Talefre towards the foot +of the Aiguille de Triolet. Croz was still my guide, Reilly was +accompanied by one of the Michel Payots of Chamounix, and Henri Charlet, +of the same place, was our porter. + +The way was over an undulating plain of glacier of moderate inclination +until the corner leading to the Col, from whence a steep secondary glacier +led down into the basin of the Talefre. We experienced no difficulty in +making the ascent of this secondary glacier with such ice-men as Croz and +Payot, and at 7.50 A.M. arrived on the top of the so-called pass, at a +height, according to Mieulet, of 12,162 feet, and 4530 above our camp on +the Couvercle. + +The descent was commenced by very steep, but firm, rocks, and then by a +branch of the Glacier de Triolet. Schrunds(129) were abundant; there were +no less than five extending completely across the glacier, all of which +had to be jumped. Not one was equal in dimensions to the extraordinary +chasm on the Col de Pilatte, although in the aggregate they far surpassed +it. "Our lives," so Reilly expressed it, "were made a burden to us with +schrunds." + +We flattered ourselves that we should arrive at the chalets of Pre du Bar +very early in the day; but, owing to much time being lost on the slopes of +Mont Rouge, it was nearly 4 P.M. before we got to them. There were no +bridges across the torrent nearer than Gruetta, and rather than descend so +far, we preferred to round the base of Mont Rouge, and to cross the snout +of the Glacier du Mont Dolent.(130) + +We occupied the 9th with a scramble up Mont Dolent. This was a miniature +ascent. It contained a little of everything. First we went up to the Col +Ferret (No. 1), and had a little grind over shaly banks; then there was a +little walk over grass; then a little tramp over a moraine (which, strange +to say, gave a pleasant path); then a little zigzagging over the +snow-covered glacier of Mont Dolent. Then there was a little bergschrund; +then a little wall of snow,--which we mounted by the side of a little +buttress; and when we struck the ridge descending S.E. from the summit, we +found a little arete of snow leading to the highest point. The summit +itself was little,--very small indeed; it was the loveliest little cone of +snow that was ever piled up on mountain-top; so soft, so pure; it seemed a +crime to defile it; it was a miniature Jungfrau, a toy summit, you could +cover it with the hand.(131) + +But there was nothing little about the _view_ from the Mont Dolent. +[Situated at the junction of three mountain ridges, it rises in a positive +steeple far above anything in its immediate neighbourhood; and certain +gaps in the surrounding ridges, which seem contrived for that especial +purpose, extend the view in almost every direction. The precipices which +descend to the Glacier d'Argentiere I can only compare to those of the +Jungfrau, and the ridges on both sides of that glacier, especially the +steep rocks of Les Droites and Les Courtes, surmounted by the sharp +snow-peak of the Aig. Verte, have almost the effect of the Grandes +Jorasses. Then, framed, as it were, between the massive tower of the Aig. +de Triolet and the more distant Jorasses, lies, without exception, the +most delicately beautiful picture I have ever seen--the whole _massif_ of +Mont Blanc, raising its great head of snow far above the tangled series of +flying buttresses which uphold the Monts Maudits, supported on the left by +Mont Peuteret and by the mass of ragged aiguilles which overhang the +Brenva. This aspect of Mont Blanc is not new, but from this point its +_pose_ is unrivalled, and it has all the superiority of a picture grouped +by the hand of a master.... The view is as extensive, and far more lovely +than that from Mont Blanc itself.](132) + + + +We went down to Courmayeur, and on the afternoon of July 10 started from +that place to camp on Mont Suc, for the ascent of the Aiguille de +Trelatete; hopeful that the mists which were hanging about would clear +away. They did not, so we deposited ourselves, and a vast load of straw, +on the moraine of the Miage Glacier, just above the Lac de Combal, in a +charming little hole which some solitary shepherd had excavated beneath a +great slab of rock. We spent the night there, and the whole of the next +day, unwilling to run away, and equally so to get into difficulties by +venturing into the mist. It was a dull time, and I grew restless. Reilly +read to me a lecture on the excellence of patience, and composed himself +in an easy attitude, to pore over the pages of a yellow-covered book. +"Patience," I said to him viciously, "comes readily to fellows who have +shilling novels; but I have not got one; I have picked all the mud out of +the nails of my boots, and have skinned my face; what shall I do?" "Go and +study the moraine of the Miage," said he. I went, and came back after an +hour. "What news?" cried Reilly, raising himself on his elbow. "Very +little; it's a big moraine, bigger than I thought, with ridge outside +ridge, like a fortified camp; and there are walls upon it which have been +built and loop-holed, as if for defence." "Try again," he said, as he +threw himself on his back. But I went to Croz, who was asleep, and tickled +his nose with a straw until he awoke; and then, as that amusement was +played out, watched Reilly, who was getting numbed, and shifted uneasily +from side to side, and threw himself on his stomach, and rested his head +on his elbows, and lighted his pipe and puffed at it savagely. When I +looked again, how was Reilly? An indistinguishable heap; arms, legs, head, +stones, and straw, all mixed together, his hat flung on one side, his +novel tossed far away! Then I went to him, and read him a lecture on the +excellence of patience. + + [Illustration: Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day] + [Illustration: Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day] + [Illustration: Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day] + [Illustration: Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day] + [Illustration: Portraits of Mr. Reilly on a wet day] + +Bah! it was a dull time. Our mountain, like a beautiful coquette, +sometimes unveiled herself for a moment, and looked charming above, +although very mysterious below. It was not until eventide she allowed us +to approach her; then, as darkness came on, the curtains were withdrawn, +the light drapery was lifted, and we stole up on tiptoe through the grand +portal formed by Mont Suc. But night advanced rapidly, and we found +ourselves left out in the cold, without a hole to creep into or shelter +from overhanging rock. We might have fared badly, except for our good +plaids. When they were sewn together down their long edges, and one end +tossed over our rope (which was passed round some rocks), and the other +secured by stones, there was sufficient protection; and we slept on this +exposed ridge, 9700 feet above the level of the sea, more soundly, +perhaps, than if we had been lying on feather beds. + + [Illustration: OUR CAMP ON MONT SUC.(133)] + +We left our bivouac at 4.45 A.M., and at 9.40 arrived upon the highest of +the three summits of the Trelatete, by passing over the lowest one. It was +well above everything at this end of the chain, and the view from it was +extraordinarily magnificent. The whole of the western face of Mont Blanc +was spread out before us; we were the first by whom it had been ever seen. +I cede the description of this view to my comrade, to whom it rightfully +belongs. + +[For four years I had felt great interest in the geography of the chain; +the year before I had mapped, more or less successfully, all but this +spot, and this spot had always eluded my grasp. The praises, undeserved as +they were, which my map had received, were as gall and wormwood to me when +I thought of that great slope which I had been obliged to leave a blank, +speckled over with unmeaning dots of rock, gathered from previous maps--for +I had consulted them all without meeting an intelligible representation of +it. From the surface of the Miage glacier I had gained nothing, for I +could only see the feet of magnificent ice-streams, and no more; but now, +from the top of the dead wall of rock which had so long closed my view, I +saw those fine glaciers from top to bottom, pouring down their streams, +nearly as large as the Bossons, from Mont Blanc, from the Bosse, and from +the Dome. + +The head of Mont Blanc is supported on this side by two buttresses, +between which vast glaciers descend. Of these the most southern(134) takes +its rise at the foot of the precipices which fall steeply down from the +Calotte,(135) and its stream, as it joins that of the Miage, is cut in two +by an enormous _rognon_ of rock. Next, to the left, comes the largest of +the buttresses of which I have spoken, almost forming an aiguille in +itself. The next glacier(136) descends from a large basin which receives +the snows of the summit-ridge between the Bosse and the Dome, and it is +divided from the third and last glacier(137) by another buttress, which +joins the summit-ridge at a point between the Dome and the Aig. de +Bionnassay.] + +The great buttresses betwixt these magnificent ice-streams have supplied a +large portion of the enormous masses of debris which are disposed in +ridges round about, and are strewn over, the termination of the Glacier de +Miage in the Val Veni. These moraines(138) used to be classed amongst the +wonders of the world. They are very large for a glacier of the size of the +Miage. + +The dimensions of moraines are not ruled by those of glaciers. Many small +glaciers have large moraines,(139) and many large ones have small +moraines. The size of the moraines of any glacier depends mainly upon the +area of rock surface that is exposed to atmospheric influences within the +basin drained by the glacier; upon the nature of such rock,--whether it is +friable or resistant; and upon the dip of strata. Moraines most likely +will be small if little rock surface is exposed; but when large ones are +seen, then, in all probability, large areas of rock, uncovered by snow or +ice, will be found in immediate contiguity to the glacier. The Miage +glacier has large ones, because it receives detritus from many great +cliffs and ridges. But if this glacier, instead of lying, as it does, at +the bottom of a trough, were to fill that trough, if it were to completely +envelope the Aiguille de Trelatete, and the other mountains which border +it, and were to descend from Mont Blanc unbroken by rock or ridge, it +would be as destitute of morainic matter as the great _Mer de Glace_ of +Greenland. For if a country or district is _completely_ covered up by +glacier, the moraines may be of the very smallest dimensions.(140) + +The contributions that are supplied to moraines by glaciers themselves, +from the abrasion of the rocks over which their ice passes, are minute +compared with the accumulations which are furnished from other sources. +These great rubbish-heaps are formed, one may say almost entirely, from +debris which falls, or is washed down the flanks of mountains, or from +cliffs bordering glaciers; and are composed, to a very limited extent +only, of matter that is ground, rasped, or filed off by the friction of +the ice. + +If the contrary view were to be adopted, if it could be maintained that +"glaciers, _by their motion, break off masses of rock from the sides and +bottoms of their valley courses_, and crowd along every thing that is +movable, so as to form large accumulations of debris in front, and along +their sides,"(141) the conclusion could not be resisted, the greater the +glacier, the greater should be the moraine. + +This doctrine does not find much favour with those who have personal +knowledge of what glaciers do at the present time. From De Saussure(142) +downwards it has been pointed out, time after time, that moraines are +chiefly formed from debris coming from rocks or soil _above_ the ice, not +from the bed over which it passes. But amongst the writings of modern +speculators upon glaciers and glacier-action in bygone times, it is not +uncommon to find the notions entertained, that moraines represent the +amount of _excavation_ (such is the term employed) performed by glaciers, +or at least are comprised of matter which has been excavated by glaciers; +that vast moraines have necessarily been produced by vast glaciers; and +that a great extension of glaciers necessarily causes the production of +vast moraines. Such generalisations cannot be sustained. + +We descended in our track to the Lac de Combal, and from thence went over +the Col de la Seigne to les Motets, where we slept; on July 13, crossed +the Col du Mont Tondu to Contamines (in a sharp thunderstorm), and the Col +de Voza to Chamounix. Two days only remained for excursions in this +neighbourhood, and we resolved to employ them in another attempt to ascend +the Aiguille d'Argentiere, upon which mountain we had been cruelly +defeated just eight days before. + +It happened in this way.--Reilly had a notion that the ascent of the +Aiguille could be accomplished by following the ridge leading to its +summit from the Col du Chardonnet. At half-past six, on the morning of the +6th, we found ourselves accordingly on the top of that pass. The party +consisted of our friend Moore and his guide Almer, Reilly and his guide +Francois Couttet, myself and Michel Croz. So far the weather had been +calm, and the way easy; but immediately we arrived on the summit of the +pass, we got into a furious wind. Five minutes earlier we were warm,--now +we were frozen. Fine snow whirled up into the air penetrated every crack +in our harness, and assailed our skins as painfully as if it had been red +hot instead of freezing cold. The teeth chattered involuntarily--talking +was laborious; the breath froze instantaneously; eating was disagreeable; +sitting was impossible! + +We looked towards our mountain. Its aspect was not encouraging. The ridge +that led upwards had a spiked arete, palisaded with miniature aiguilles, +banked up at their bases by heavy snow-beds, which led down, at +considerable angles, on one side towards the Glacier de Saleinoz, on the +other towards the Glacier du Chardonnet. Under any circumstances, it would +have been a stiff piece of work to clamber up that way. Prudence and +comfort counselled, "Give it up." Discretion overruled valour. Moore and +Almer crossed the Col du Chardonnet to go to Orsieres, and we others +returned towards Chamounix. + +But when we got some distance down, the evil spirit which prompts men to +ascend mountains tempted us to stop, and to look back at the Aiguille +d'Argentiere. The sky was cloudless; no wind could be felt, nor sign of it +perceived; it was only eight o'clock in the morning; and there, right +before us, we saw another branch of the glacier leading high up into the +mountain--far above the Col du Chardonnet--and a little couloir rising from +its head almost to the top of the peak. This was clearly the right route +to take. We turned back, and went at it. + +The glacier was steep, and the snow gully rising out of it was steeper. +Seven hundred steps were cut. Then the couloir became _too_ steep. We took +to the rocks on its left, and at last gained the ridge, at a point about +1500 feet above the Col du Chardonnet. We faced about to the right, and +went along the ridge; keeping on some snow a little below its crest, on +the Saleinoz side. Then we got the wind again; yet no one thought of +turning, for we were within 250 feet of the summit. + +The axes of Croz and Couttet went to work once more, for the slope was +about as steep as snow-slope could be. Its surface was covered with a +loose, granular crust; dry and utterly incoherent; which slipped away in +streaks directly it was meddled with. The men had to cut through this into +the old beds underneath, and to pause incessantly to rake away the powdery +stuff, which poured down in hissing streams over the hard substratum. Ugh! +how cold it was! How the wind blew! Couttet's hat was torn from its +fastenings, and went on a tour in Switzerland. The flour-like snow, swept +off the ridge above, was tossed spirally upwards, eddying in _tourmentes_; +then, dropt in lulls, or caught by other gusts, was flung far and wide to +feed the Saleinoz. + +"My feet are getting suspiciously numbed," cried Reilly: "how about +frost-bites?" "Kick hard, sir," shouted the men; "it's the only way." +_Their_ fingers were kept alive by their work; but it was cold for the +feet, and they kicked and hewed simultaneously. I followed their example +too violently, and made a hole clean through my footing. A clatter +followed as if crockery had been thrown down a well. + +I went down a step or two, and discovered in a second that all were +standing over a cavern (not a crevasse, speaking properly) that was +bridged over by a thin vault of ice, from which great icicles hung in +groves. Almost in the same minute Reilly pushed one of his hands right +through the roof. The whole party might have tumbled through at any +moment. "Go ahead, Croz, we are over a chasm!" "We know it," he answered, +"and we can't find a firm place." + +In the blandest manner, my comrade inquired if to persevere would not be +to do that which is called "tempting Providence." My reply being in the +affirmative, he further observed, "Suppose we go down?" "Very willingly." +"Ask the guides." They had not the least objection; so we went down, and +slept that night at the Montanvert. + +Off the ridge we were out of the wind. In fact, a hundred feet down _to +windward_, on the slope fronting the Glacier du Chardonnet, we were +broiling hot; there was not a suspicion of a breeze. Upon that side there +was nothing to tell that a hurricane was raging a hundred feet higher,--the +cloudless sky looked tranquillity itself: whilst to leeward the only sign +of a disturbed atmosphere was the friskiness of the snow upon the crests +of the ridges. + +We set out on the 14th, with Croz, Payot, and Charlet, to finish off the +work which had been cut short so abruptly, and slept, as before, at the +Chalets de Lognan. On the 15th, about midday, we arrived upon the summit +of the aiguille, and found that we had actually been within one hundred +feet of it when we turned back upon the first attempt. + +It was a triumph to Reilly. In this neighbourhood he had performed the +feat (in 1863) of joining together "two mountains, each about 13,000 feet +high, standing on the map about a mile and a half apart." Long before we +made the ascent he had procured evidence which could not be impugned, that +the Pointe des Plines, a fictitious summit which had figured on other maps +as a distinct mountain, could be no other than the Aiguille d'Argentiere, +and he had accordingly obliterated it from the preliminary draft of his +map. We saw that it was right to do so. The Pointe des Plines did not +exist. We had ocular demonstration of the accuracy of his previous +observations. + +I do not know which to admire most, the fidelity of Mr. Reilly's map, or +the indefatigable industry by which the materials were accumulated from +which it was constructed. To men who are sound in limb it may be amusing +to arrive on a summit (as we did upon the top of Mont Dolent), sitting +astride a ridge too narrow to stand upon; or to do battle with a ferocious +wind (as we did on the top of the Aiguille de Trelatete); or to feel +half-frozen in midsummer (as we did on the Aiguille d'Argentiere). But +there is extremely little amusement in making sketches and notes under +such conditions. Yet upon all these expeditions, under the most adverse +circumstances, and in the most trying situations, Mr. Reilly's brain and +fingers were always at work. Throughout all he was ever alike; the same +genial, equable-tempered companion, whether victorious or whether +defeated; always ready to sacrifice his own desires to suit our comfort +and convenience. By a happy union of audacity and prudence, combined with +untiring perseverance, he eventually completed his self-imposed task--a +work which would have been intolerable except as a labour of love--and +which, for a single individual, may well-nigh be termed Herculean. + +We separated upon the level part of the Glacier d'Argentiere, Reilly going +with Payot and Charlet _via_ the chalets of Lognan and de la Pendant, +whilst I, with Croz, followed the right bank of the glacier to the village +of Argentiere.(143) At 7 P.M. we entered the humble inn, and ten minutes +afterwards heard the echoes of the cannon which were fired upon the +arrival of our comrades at Chamounix.(144) + + + + + + CHAPTER XI. + + + THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE MOMING PASS--ZINAL TO ZERMATT. + + + "A daring leader is a dangerous thing." + EURIPIDES. + + +On July 10, Croz and I went to Sierre, in the Valais, _via_ the Col de +Balme, the Col de la Forclaz, and Martigny. The Swiss side of the Forclaz +is not creditable to Switzerland. The path from Martigny to the summit has +undergone successive improvements in these latter years; but mendicants +permanently disfigure it. + +We passed many tired pedestrians toiling up this oven, persecuted by +trains of parasitic children. These children swarm there like maggots in a +rotten cheese. They carry baskets of fruit with which to plague the weary +tourist. They flit around him like flies; they thrust the fruit in his +face; they pester him with their pertinacity. Beware of them!--taste, touch +not their fruit. In the eyes of these children, each peach, each grape, is +worth a prince's ransom. It is to no purpose to be angry; it is like +flapping wasps--they only buzz the more. Whatever you do, or whatever you +say, the end will be the same. "Give me something," is the alpha and omega +of all their addresses. They learn the phrase, it is said, before they are +taught the alphabet. It is in all their mouths. From the tiny toddler up +to the maiden of sixteen, there is nothing heard but one universal chorus +of--"Give me something; will you have the goodness to give me something?" + +From Sierre we went up the Val d'Anniviers to Zinal, to join our former +companions, Moore and Almer. Moore was ambitious to discover a shorter way +from Zinal to Zermatt than the two passes which were known.(145) He had +shown to me, upon Dufour's map, that a direct line, connecting the two +places, passed exactly over the depression between the Zinal-Rothhorn and +the Schallhorn. He was confident that a passage could be effected over +this depression, and was sanguine that it would (in consequence of its +directness) prove to be a quicker route than the circuitous ones over the +Triftjoch and the Col Durand. + +He was awaiting us, and we immediately proceeded up the valley, and across +the foot of the Zinal glacier to the Arpitetta Alp, where a chalet was +supposed to exist in which we might pass the night. We found it at +length,(146) but it was not equal to our expectations. It was not one of +those fine timbered chalets, with huge overhanging eaves, covered with +pious sentences carved in unintelligible characters. It was a hovel, +growing, as it were, out of the hill-side; roofed with rough slabs of +slaty stone; without a door or window; surrounded by quagmires of ordure, +and dirt of every description. + +A foul native invited us to enter. The interior was dark; and, when our +eyes became accustomed to the gloom, we saw that our palace was in plan +about 15 by 20 feet; on one side it was scarcely five feet high, and on +the other was nearly seven. On this side there was a raised platform, +about six feet wide, littered with dirty straw and still dirtier +sheepskins. This was the bedroom. The remainder of the width of the +apartment was the parlour. The rest was the factory. Cheese was the +article which was being fabricated, and the foul native was engaged in its +manufacture. He was garnished behind with a regular cowherd's one-legged +stool, which gave him a queer, uncanny look when it was elevated in the +air as he bent over into his tub; for the making of his cheese required +him to blow into a tub for ten minutes at a time. He then squatted on his +stool to gain breath, and took a few whiffs at a short pipe; after which +he blew away more vigorously than before. We were told that this procedure +was necessary. It appeared to us to be nasty. It accounts, perhaps, for +the flavour possessed by certain Swiss cheeses. + +Big, black, and leaden-coloured clouds rolled up from Zinal, and met in +combat on the Moming glacier with others which descended from the +Rothhorn. Down came the rain in torrents, and crash went the thunder. The +herd-boys hurried under shelter, for the frightened cattle needed no +driving, and tore spontaneously down the Alp as if running a +steeple-chase. Men, cows, pigs, sheep, and goats forgot their mutual +animosities, and rushed to the only refuge on the mountain. The spell was +broken which had bound the elements for some weeks past, and the _cirque_ +from the Weisshorn to Lo Besso was the theatre in which they spent their +fury. + +A sullen morning succeeded an angry night. We were undecided in our +council whether to advance or to return down the valley. Good seemed +likely to overpower bad; so, at 5.40, we left the chalet _en route_ for +our pass [amidst the most encouraging assurances from all the people on +the Alp that we need not distress ourselves about the weather, as it was +not possible to get to the point at which we were aiming].(147) + +Our course led us at first over ordinary mountain slopes, and then over a +flat expanse of glacier. Before this was quitted, it was needful to +determine the exact line which was to be taken. We were divided betwixt +two opinions. I advocated that a course should be steered due south, and +that the upper plateau of the Moming glacier should be attained by making +a great detour to our right. This was negatived without a division. Almer +declared in favour of making for some rocks to the south-west of the +Schallhorn, and attaining the upper plateau of the glacier by mounting +them. Croz advised a middle course, up some very steep and broken glacier. +Croz's route seemed likely to turn out to be impracticable, because much +step-cutting would be required upon it. Almer's rocks did not look good; +they were, possibly, unassailable. I thought both routes were bad, and +declined to vote for either of them. Moore hesitated, Almer gave way, and +Croz's route was adopted. + +He did not go very far, however, before he found that he had undertaken +too much, and after [glancing occasionally round at us, to see what we +thought about it, suggested that it might, after all, be wiser to take to +the rocks of the Schallhorn]. That is to say, he suggested the abandonment +of his own and the adoption of Almer's route. No one opposed the change of +plan, and, in the absence of instructions to the contrary, he proceeded to +cut steps across an ice-slope towards the rocks. + +Let the reader now cast his eye upon the map of the Valley of Zermatt, and +he will see that when we quitted the slopes of the Arpitetta Alp, we took +a south-easterly course over the Moming glacier. We halted to settle the +plan of attack shortly after we got upon the ice. The rocks of the +Schallhorn, whose ascent Almer recommended, were then to our south-east. +Croz's proposed route was to the south-west of the rocks, and led up the +southern side of a very steep and broken glacier.(148) The part he +intended to traverse was, in a sense, undoubtedly practicable. He gave it +up because it would have involved too much step-cutting. But the part of +this glacier which intervened between his route and Almer's rocks was, in +the most complete sense of the word, impracticable. It passed over a +continuation of the rocks, and was broken in half by them. The upper +portion was separated from the lower portion by a long slope of ice that +had been built up from the debris of the glacier which had fallen from +above. The foot of this slope was surrounded by immense quantities of the +larger avalanche blocks. These we cautiously skirted, and when Croz halted +they had been left far below, and we were half-way up the side of the +great slope which led to the base of the ice-wall above. + +Across this ice-slope Croz now proceeded to cut. It was executing a flank +movement in the face of an enemy by whom we might be attacked at any +moment. The peril was obvious. It was a monstrous folly. It was +foolhardiness. A retreat should have been sounded.(149) + +"I am not ashamed to confess," wrote Moore in his Journal, "that during +the whole time we were crossing this slope my heart was in my mouth, and I +never felt relieved from such a load of care as when, after, I suppose, a +passage of about twenty minutes, we got on to the rocks and were in +safety.... I have never heard a positive oath come from Almer's mouth, but +the language in which he kept up a running commentary, more to himself +than to me, as we went along, was stronger than I should have given him +credit for using. His prominent feeling seemed to be one of _indignation_ +that we should be in such a position, and self-reproach at being a party +to the proceeding; while the emphatic way in which, at intervals, he +exclaimed, 'Quick; be quick,' sufficiently betokened his alarm." + +It was not necessary to admonish Croz to be quick. He was fully as alive +to the risk as any of the others. He told me afterwards, that this place +was the most dangerous he had ever crossed, and that no consideration +whatever would tempt him to cross it again. Manfully did he exert himself +to escape from the impending destruction. His head, bent down to his work, +never turned to the right or to the left. One, two, three, went his axe, +and then he stepped on to the spot where he had been cutting. How +painfully insecure should we have considered those steps at any other +time! But now, we thought only of the rocks in front, and of the hideous +_seracs_, lurching over above us, apparently in the act of falling. + +We got to the rocks in safety, and if they had been doubly as difficult as +they were, we should still have been well content. We sat down and +refreshed the inner man; keeping our eyes on the towering pinnacles of ice +under which we had passed; but which, now, were almost beneath us. Without +a preliminary warning sound, one of the largest--as high as the Monument at +London Bridge--fell upon the slope below. The stately mass heeled over as +if upon a hinge (holding together until it bent 30 degrees forwards), then +it crushed out its base, and, rent into a thousand fragments, plunged +vertically down upon the slope that we had crossed! Every atom of our +track, that was in its course, was obliterated; all the new snow was swept +away, and a broad sheet of smooth, glassy ice, showed the resistless force +with which it had fallen. + + [Illustration: ICE-AVALANCHE ON THE MOMING PASS.] + +It was inexcusable to follow such a perilous path, but it is easy to +understand why it was taken. To have retreated from the place where Croz +suggested a change of plan, to have descended below the reach of danger, +and to have mounted again by the route which Almer suggested, would have +been equivalent to abandoning the excursion; for no one would have passed +another night in the chalet on the Arpitetta Alp. "Many," says Thucydides, +"though seeing well the perils ahead, are forced along by fear of +dishonour--as the world calls it--so that, vanquished by a mere word, they +fall into irremediable calamities." Such was nearly the case here. No one +could say a word in justification of the course which was adopted; all +were alive to the danger that was being encountered; yet a grave risk was +deliberately--although unwillingly--incurred, in preference to admitting, by +withdrawal from an untenable position, that an error of judgment had been +committed. + +After a laborious trudge over many species of snow, and through many +varieties of vapour--from the quality of a Scotch mist to that of a London +fog--we at length stood on the depression between the Rothhorn and the +Schallhorn.(150) A steep wall of snow was upon the Zinal side of the +summit; but what the descent was like on the other side we could not tell, +for a billow of snow tossed over its crest by the western winds, suspended +o'er Zermatt with motion arrested, resembling an ocean-wave frozen in the +act of breaking, cut off the view.(151) + +Croz--held hard in by the others, who kept down the Zinal side--opened his +shoulders, flogged down the foam, and cut away the cornice to its junction +with the summit; then boldly leaped down, and called on us to follow him. + + [Illustration: SUMMIT OF THE MOMING PASS IN 1864.] + +It was well for us now that we had such a man as leader. An inferior or +less daring guide would have hesitated to enter upon the descent in a +dense mist; and Croz himself would have done right to pause had he been +less magnificent in _physique_. He acted, rather than said, "Where snow +lies fast, there man can go; where ice exists, a way may be cut; it is a +question of power; I have the power,--all you have to do is to follow me." +Truly, he did not spare himself, and could he have performed the feats +upon the boards of a theatre that he did upon this occasion, he would have +brought down the house with thunders of applause. Here is what Moore wrote +in _his_ Journal. + +[The descent bore a strong resemblance to the Col de Pilatte, but was very +much steeper and altogether more difficult, which is saying a good deal. +Croz was in his element, and selected his way with marvellous sagacity, +while Almer had an equally honourable and, perhaps, more responsible post +in the rear, which he kept with his usual steadiness.... One particular +passage has impressed itself on my mind as one of the most nervous I have +ever made. We had to pass along a crest of ice, a mere knife-edge,--on our +left a broad crevasse, whose bottom was lost in blue haze, and on our +right, at an angle of 70 deg., or more, a slope falling to a similar gulf +below. Croz, as he went along the edge, chipped small notches in the ice, +in which we placed our feet, with the toes well turned out, doing all we +knew to preserve our balance. While stepping from one of these precarious +footholds to another, I staggered for a moment. I had not really lost my +footing; but the agonised tone in which Almer, who was behind me, on +seeing me waver, exclaimed, "Slip not, sir!" gave us an even livelier +impression than we already had of the insecurity of the position.... One +huge chasm, whose upper edge was far above the lower one, could neither be +leaped nor turned, and threatened to prove an insuperable barrier. But +Croz showed himself equal to the emergency. Held up by the rest of the +party, he cut a series of holes for the hands and feet, down and along the +almost perpendicular wall of ice forming the upper side of the _schrund_. +Down this slippery staircase we crept, with our faces to the wall, until a +point was reached where the width of the chasm was not too great for us to +drop across. Before we had done, we got quite accustomed to taking flying +leaps over the _schrunds_.... To make a long story short; after a most +desperate and exciting struggle, and as bad a piece of ice-work as it is +possible to imagine, we emerged on to the upper plateau of the Hohlicht +glacier.] + +The glimpses which had been caught of the lower part of the Hohlicht +glacier were discouraging, so it was now determined to cross over the +ridge between it and the Rothhorn glacier. This was not done without great +trouble. Again we rose to a height exceeding 12,000 feet. Eventually we +took to the track of the despised Triftjoch, and descended by the +well-known, but rough, path which leads to that pass; arriving at the +Monte Rosa hotel at Zermatt at 7.20 P.M. We occupied nearly twelve hours +of actual walking in coming from the chalet on the Arpitetta Alp (which +was 21/2 hours above Zinal), and we consequently found that the Moming pass +was not the shortest route from Zinal to Zermatt, although it was the most +direct. + + + +Two dozen guides--good, bad, and indifferent; French, Swiss, and +Italian--can commonly be seen sitting on the wall on the front of the Monte +Rosa hotel: waiting on their employers, and looking for employers; +watching new arrivals, and speculating on the number of francs which may +be extracted from their pockets. The _Messieurs_--sometimes strangely and +wonderfully dressed--stand about in groups, or lean back in chairs, or +lounge on the benches which are placed by the door. They wear +extraordinary boots, and still more remarkable head-dresses. Their peeled, +blistered, and swollen faces are worth studying. Some, by the exercise of +watchfulness and unremitting care, have been fortunate enough to acquire a +fine raw sienna complexion. But most of them have not been so happy. They +have been scorched on rocks, and roasted on glaciers. Their cheeks--first +puffed, then cracked--have exuded a turpentine-like matter, which has +coursed down their faces, and has dried in patches like the resin on the +trunks of pines. They have removed it, and at the same time have pulled +off large flakes of their skin. They have gone from bad to worse--their +case has become hopeless--knives and scissors have been called into play; +tenderly, and daintily, they have endeavoured to reduce their cheeks to +one, uniform hue. It is not to be done. But they have gone on, fascinated, +and at last have brought their unhappy countenances to a state of helpless +and complete ruin. Their lips are cracked; their cheeks are swollen; their +eyes are blood-shot; their noses are peeled and indescribable. + + [Illustration: THE CLUB-ROOM OF ZERMATT, IN 1864.] + +Such are the pleasures of the mountaineer! Scornfully and derisively the +last comer compares the sight with his own flaccid face and dainty hands; +unconscious that he too, perhaps, will be numbered with those whom he now +ridicules. + +There is a frankness of manner about these strangely-apparelled and +queer-faced men, which does not remind one of drawing-room, or city life; +and it is good to see--in this club-room of Zermatt--those cold bodies, our +too-frigid countrymen, regale together when brought into contact; and it +is pleasant to witness the hearty welcome given to the new-comers by the +host and his excellent wife.(152) + + + +I left this agreeable society to seek letters at the post. They yielded +disastrous intelligence. My holiday was brought to an abrupt termination, +and I awaited the arrival of Reilly (who was convoying the stores for the +attack on the Matterhorn) only to inform him that our arrangements were +upset; then travelled home, day and night, as fast as express trains would +carry me. + + + + + + CHAPTER XII. + + + THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE GRAND CORNIER. + + + "Ye crags and peaks, I'm with you once again! + . . . Methinks I hear + A spirit in your echoes answers me, + And bid your tenant welcome to his home + Again!" + S. KNOWLES. + + +Our career in 1864 had been one of unbroken success, but the great ascent +upon which I had set my heart was not attempted, and, until it was +accomplished, I was unsatisfied. Other things, too, influenced me to visit +the Alps once more. I wished to travel elsewhere, in places where the +responsibility of direction would rest with myself alone. It was well to +know how far my judgment in the choice of routes could be relied upon. + +The journey of 1865 was chiefly undertaken, then, to find out to what +extent I was capable to select paths over mountainous country. The +programme which was drawn up for this journey was rather ambitious, since +it included almost all of the great peaks which had not then been +ascended; but it was neither lightly undertaken nor hastily executed. All +pains were taken to secure success. Information was sought from those who +could give it, and the defeats of others were studied, that their errors +might be avoided. The results which followed came not so much, perhaps, +from luck, as from forethought and careful calculation. + +For success does not, as a rule, come by chance, and when one fails there +is a reason for it. But when any notable, or so-called brilliant thing is +done, we are too apt to look upon the success alone, without considering +how it was accomplished. Whilst, when men fail, we inquire why they have +not succeeded. So failures are oftentimes more instructive than successes, +and the disappointments of some become profitable to others. + +Up to a certain point, the programme was completely and happily carried +out. Nothing but success attended our efforts so long as the excursions +were executed as they had been planned. Most of them were made upon the +very days which had been fixed for them months beforehand; and all were +accomplished, comparatively speaking, so easily, that their descriptions +must be, in the absence of difficulty and danger, less interesting to the +general reader than they would have been if our course had been marked by +blunders and want of judgment. Before proceeding to speak of these +excursions, it will not be entirely useless to explain the reasons which +influenced the selection of the routes which were adopted upon them. + +In the course of the past five seasons my early practices were +revolutionised. My antipathy to snow was overcome, and my predilection for +rocks was modified. Like all those who are not mountaineers born, I was, +at the first, extremely nervous upon steep snow. The snow seemed bound to +slip, and all those who were upon it to go along with it. Snow of a +certain quality is undoubtedly liable to slip when it is at a certain +inclination.(153) The exact states which are dangerous, or safe, it is not +possible to describe in writing. That is only learnt by experience, and +confidence upon snow is not really felt until one has gained experience. +Confidence gradually came to me, and as it came so did my partiality for +rocks diminish. For it was evident, to use a common expression, that it +paid better to travel upon snow than upon rocks. This applies to snow-beds +pure and simple, or to snow which is lying over glacier; and in the +selection of routes it has, latterly, always been my practice to look for +the places where snow slopes, or snow-covered glaciers, reach highest into +mountains.(154) + +It is comparatively seldom, however, that an ascent of a great mountain +can be executed exclusively upon snow and glacier. Ridges peep through +which have to be surmounted. In my earlier scramblings I usually took to, +or was taken upon, the summits (or aretes) of the ridges, and a good many +mountaineers habitually take to them on principle, as the natural and +proper way. According to my experience, it is seldom well to do so when +any other course is open. As I have already said, and presently shall +repeat more particularly, the crests of all the main ridges of the great +peaks of the Alps are shattered and cleft by frost; and it not +unfrequently happens that a notch in a ridge, which appears perfectly +insignificant from a distance, is found to be an insuperable barrier to +farther progress; and a great detour, or a long descent, has to be made to +avoid the obstacle. When committed to an arete one is tied, almost always, +to a particular course, from which it is difficult to deviate. Much loss +of time must result if any serious obstruction occurs; and defeat often +follows a temporary check. + +But it rarely happens that a great alpine peak is seen that is cut off +abruptly, in all directions, from the snows and glaciers which surround +it. In its gullies snow will cling, although its faces may be too steep +for the formation of permanent snow-beds. The merits of these snow-gullies +(or _couloirs_) have been already pointed out,(155) and it is hardly +necessary to observe, after that which was just now said about snow, that +ascents of snow-gullies (with proper precautions) are very much to be +preferred to ascents of rocky aretes. + +By following the glaciers, the snow-slopes above, and the couloirs rising +from them, it is usually possible to get very close to the summits of the +great peaks in the Alps. The final climb will, perhaps, necessarily be by +an arete. The less of it the better. + +It occasionally occurs that considerable mountain slopes, or faces, are +destitute of snow-gullies. In that case it will, very likely, be best to +adhere to the faces (or to the gullies or minor ridges upon them) rather +than to take to the _great_ ridges. Upon a face one can move to the right +or to the left with more facility than upon the crest of a ridge; and when +a difficulty is arrived at, it is, consequently, less troublesome to +circumvent. + +In selecting the routes which were taken in 1865, I looked, first, for +places where glaciers and snow extended highest up into the mountains +which were to be ascended, or the ridges which were to be crossed. Next, +for gullies filled with snow leading still higher; and finally, from the +heads of the gullies we completed the ascents, whenever it was +practicable, by faces instead of by aretes. The ascent of the Grand +Cornier (13,022), of the Dent Blanche (14,318), Grandes Jorasses (13,700), +Aiguille Verte (13,540), Ruinette (12,727), and the Matterhorn (14,780), +were all accomplished in this way; besides the other excursions which will +be referred to by and by. The route selected, before the start was made, +was in every case strictly followed out. + +We inspected all of these mountains from neighbouring heights before +entering upon their ascents. I explained to the guides the routes I +proposed to be taken, and (when the courses were at all complicated) +sketched them out on paper to prevent misunderstanding. In some few cases +they suggested variations, and in every case the route was well discussed. +The _execution_ of the work was done by the guides, and I seldom +interfered with, or attempted to assist in it. + + + +The 13th of June 1865 I spent in the valley of Lauterbrunnen with the Rev. +W. H. Hawker and the guides Christian and Ulrich Lauener; and on the 14th +crossed the Petersgrat with Christian Almer and Johann Taennler to Turtman +(Tourtemagne) in the Valais. Taennler was then paid off, as Michel Croz and +Franz Biener were awaiting me. + +It was not possible to find two leading guides who worked together more +harmoniously than Croz and Almer. Biener's part was subordinate to theirs, +and he was added as a convenience rather than as a necessity. Croz spoke +French alone, Almer little else than German. Biener spoke both languages, +and was useful on that account; but he seldom went to the front, excepting +during the early part of the day, when the work was easy, and he acted +throughout more as a porter than as a guide. + +The importance of having a reserve of power on mountain expeditions cannot +be too strongly insisted upon. We always had some in hand, and were never +pressed, or overworked, so long as we were together. Come what might, we +were ready for it. But by a series of chances, which I shall never cease +to regret, I was first obliged to part with Croz, and then to dismiss the +others;(156) and so, deviating from the course that I had deliberately +adopted, which was successful in practice because it was sound in +principle, became fortuitously a member of an expedition that ended with +the catastrophe which brings this book, and brought my scrambles amongst +the Alps, to a close.(157) + +On June 15 we went, from Turtman to Z'meiden, and thence over the +Forcletta pass to Zinal. We diverged from the summit of the pass up some +neighbouring heights to inspect the Grand Cornier, and I decided to have +nothing to do with its northern side. It seemed quite safe to pronounce it +inaccessible from that direction, although it was more than seven miles +away. + +On the 16th we left Zinal at 2.5 A.M., having been for a moment greatly +surprised by an entry in the hotel-book,(158) and ascending by the Zinal +glacier, and giving the base of our mountain a wide berth in order that it +might be better examined, passed gradually right round to its south, +before a way up it was seen.(159) At 8.30 we arrived upon the plateau of +the glacier that descends towards the east, between the Grand Cornier and +the Dent Blanche, and from this place a route was readily traced. We +steered to the north (as shown upon the map) over the glacier, towards the +ridge that descends to the east; gained it by mounting snow-slopes, and +followed it to the summit, which was arrived at before half-past twelve. +From first to last the route was almost entirely over snow. + +The ridges leading to the north and to the south from the summit of the +Grand Cornier, exhibited in a most striking manner the extraordinary +effects that may be produced by violent alternations of heat and cold. The +southern one was hacked and split into the wildest forms; and the northern +one was not less cleft and impracticable, and offered the droll piece of +rock-carving which is represented upon page 211. Some small blocks +actually tottered and fell before our eyes, and, starting others in their +downward course, grew into a perfect avalanche, which descended with a +solemn roar on to the glaciers beneath. + + [Illustration: PART OF THE SOUTHERN RIDGE OF THE GRAND CORNIER.] + +It is natural that the great ridges should present the wildest forms--not +on account of their dimensions, but by reason of their positions. They are +exposed to the fiercest heat of the sun, and are seldom in shadow as long +as it is above the horizon. They are entirely unprotected, and are +attacked by the strongest blasts and by the most intense cold. The most +durable rocks are not proof against such assaults. These grand, apparently +solid--eternal--mountains, seeming so firm, so immutable, are yet ever +changing and crumbling into dust. These shattered ridges are evidence of +their sufferings. Let me repeat that every principal ridge of every great +peak in the Alps amongst those I have seen has been shattered in this way; +and that every summit, amongst the rock-summits upon which I have stood, +has been nothing but a piled-up heap of fragments. + +The minor ridges do not usually present such extraordinary forms as the +principal ones. They are less exposed, and they are less broken up; and it +is reasonable to assume that their annual degradation is less than that of +the summit-ridges. + +The wear and tear does not cease even in winter, for these great ridges +are never completely covered up by snow,(160) and the sun has still power. +The destruction is incessant, and increases as time goes on; for the +greater the surfaces which are exposed to the practically inexhaustible +powers of sun and frost, the greater ruin will be effected. + + [Illustration: PART OF THE NORTHERN RIDGE OF THE GRAND CORNIER.] + +The rock-falls which are continually occurring upon all rock mountains +(such as are referred to upon pp. 29, 55) are, of course, caused by these +powers. No one doubts it; but one never believes it so thoroughly as when +the quarries are seen from which their materials have been hewn; and when +the germs, so to speak, of these avalanches have been seen actually +starting from above. + +These falls of rock take place from two causes. First, from the heat of +the sun detaching small stones or rocks which have been arrested on ledges +or slopes and bound together by snow or ice. I have seen such released +many times when the sun has risen high; fall gently at first, gather +strength, grow in volume, and at last rush down with a cloud trailing +behind, like the dust after an express train. Secondly, from the freezing +of the water which trickles, during the day, into the clefts, fissures, +and crannies. This agency is naturally most active in the night, and then, +or during very cold weather, the greatest falls take place.(161) + +When one has continually seen and heard these falls, it is easily +understood why the glaciers are laden with moraines. The wonder is, not +that they are sometimes so great, but that they are not always greater. +Irrespective of lithological considerations, one knows that this debris +cannot have been excavated _by_ the glaciers. The moraines are _borne_ by +glaciers, but they are _born_ from the ridges. They are generated by the +sun, and delivered by the frost. "Fire," it is well said in Plutarch's +life of Camillus, "is the most active thing in nature, and all generation +is motion, or at least, with motion; all other parts of matter without +warmth lie sluggish and dead, and crave the influence of heat as their +life, and when that comes upon them, they immediately acquire some active +or passive qualities."(162) + +If the Alps were granted a perfectly invariable temperature, if they were +no longer subjected, alternately, to freezing blasts and to scorching +heat, they might more correctly be termed "eternal." They might still +continue to decay, but their abasement would be much less rapid. + +When rocks are covered up by a sheet of glacier they do enjoy an almost +invariable temperature. The extremes of summer and winter are unknown to +rocks which are so covered up,--a range of a very few degrees is the most +that is possible underneath the ice.(163) There is, _then_, little or no +disintegration from unequal expansion and contraction. Frost, _then_, does +not penetrate into the heart of the rock, and cleave off vast masses. The +rocks, _then_, sustain grinding instead of cleaving. Atoms, _then_, come +away instead of masses. Fissures and overhanging surfaces are bridged, for +the ice cannot get at them; and after many centuries of grinding have been +sustained, we still find numberless angular surfaces (in the _lee-sides_) +which were fashioned before the ice began to work. + +The points of difference which are so evident between the operations of +heat, cold, and water, and those of glaciers upon rocks, are as follow. +The former take advantage of cracks, fissures, joints, and soft places; +the latter do not. The former can work _underneath_ overhanging masses; +the latter cannot. The effects produced by the former continually +_increase_, because they continually expose fresh surfaces by forming new +cracks, fissures, and holes. The effects which the latter produce +constantly _diminish_, because the area of the surfaces operated upon +becomes less and less, as they become smoother and flatter. + +What can one conclude, then, but that sun, frost, and water, have had +infinitely more to do than glaciers with the fashioning of mountain-forms +and valley-slopes? Who can refuse to believe that powers which are at work +everywhere, which have been at work always, which are so incomparably +active, capable, and enduring, must have produced greater effects than a +solitary power which is always local in its influence, which has worked, +_comparatively_, but for a short time, which is always slow and feeble in +its operations, and which constantly diminishes in intensity? + +Yet there are some who refuse to believe that sun, frost, and water have +played an important part in modelling the Alps, and hold it as an article +of their faith that the Alpine region "owes its present conformation +mainly to the action of its ancient glaciers"!(164) + + + +My reverie was interrupted by Croz observing that it was time to be off. +Less than two hours sufficed to take us to the glacier plateau below +(where we had left our baggage); three quarters of an hour more placed us +upon the depression between the Grand Cornier and the Dent Blanche (Col du +Grand Cornier(165)), and at 6 P.M. we arrived at Abricolla. Croz and +Biener hankered after milk, and descended to a village lower down the +valley; but Almer and I stayed where we were, and passed a chilly night on +some planks in a half-burnt chalet.(166) + + + + + + CHAPTER XIII. + + + THE ASCENT OF THE DENT BLANCHE. + + + "God help thee, Trav'ller, on thy journey far; + The wind is bitter keen,--the snow o'erlays + The hidden pits, and dang'rous hollow-ways, + And darkness will involve thee.--No kind star + To-night will guide thee."... + H. KIRKE WHITE. + + +Croz and Biener did not return until past 5 A.M. on June 17, and we then +set out at once for Zermatt, intending to cross the Col d'Herens. But we +did not proceed far before the attractions of the Dent Blanche were felt +to be irresistible, and we turned aside up the steep lateral glacier which +descends along its south-western face. + +The Dent Blanche is a mountain that is little known except to the climbing +fraternity. It was, and is, reputed to be one of the most difficult +mountains in the Alps. Many attempts were made to scale it before its +ascent was accomplished. Even Leslie Stephen himself, fleetest of foot of +the whole Alpine brotherhood, once upon a time returned discomfited from +it. + + [Illustration: LESLIE STEPHEN.] + +It was not climbed until 1862; but in that year Mr. T. S. Kennedy, with +Mr. Wigram, and the guides Jean B. Croz(167) and Kronig, managed to +conquer it. They had a hard fight though before they gained the victory; a +furious wind and driving snow, added to the natural difficulties, nearly +turned the scale against them.(168) + +Mr. Kennedy started from Abricolla between 2 and 3 A.M. on July 18, 1862, +and ascending the glacier that is mentioned in the opening paragraph, went +towards the point marked 3912 metres upon the map;(169) then turned to the +left (that is, to the north), and completed the ascent by the southern +ridge--that which overhangs the western side of the Schoenbuehl glacier. + +Mr. Kennedy described his expedition in a very interesting paper in the +_Alpine Journal_. His account bore the impress of truth; yet unbelievers +said that it was impossible to have told (in weather such as was +experienced) whether the summit had actually been attained, and sometimes +roundly asserted that the mountain, as the saying is, still remained +virgin. + +I did not share these doubts, although they influenced me to make the +ascent. I thought it might be possible to find an easier route than that +taken by Mr. Kennedy, and that if we succeeded in discovering one we +should be able at once to refute his traducers, and to vaunt our superior +wisdom. Actuated by these elevated motives, I halted my little army at the +foot of the glacier, and inquired, "Which is best for us to do?--to ascend +the Dent Blanche, or to cross to Zermatt?" They answered, with befitting +solemnity, "We think Dent Blanche is best." + +From the chalets of Abricolla the south-west face of the Dent Blanche is +regarded almost exactly in profile. From thence it is seen that the angle +of the face scarcely exceeds thirty degrees, and after observing this I +concluded that the face would, in all probability, give an easier path to +the summit than the crest of the very jagged ridge which was followed by +Mr. Kennedy. + +We zigzagged up the glacier along the foot of the face, and looked for a +way on to it. We looked for some time in vain, for a mighty _bergschrund_ +effectually prevented approach, and, like a fortress' moat, protected the +wall from assault. We went up and up, until, I suppose, we were not more +than a thousand feet below the point marked 3912 metres; then a bridge was +discovered, and we dropped down on hands and knees to cross it. + + [Illustration: THE BERGSCHRUND ON THE DENT BLANCHE IN 1865] + +A bergschrund, it was said on p. 182, is a schrund, and something more +than a schrund. A schrund is simply a big crevasse. A bergschrund is +frequently, although not always, a big crevasse. The term is applied to +the last of the crevasses that one finds, in ascending, before quitting +the glacier, and taking to the rocks which bound it. It is the mountains' +schrund. Sometimes it is _very_ large, but early in the season (that is to +say in the month of June or before) bergschrunds are usually snowed up, or +well bridged over, and do not give much trouble. Later in the year, say in +August, they are frequently very great hindrances, and occasionally are +completely impassable. + +They are lines of rupture consequent upon unequal motion. The glaciers +below move quicker than the snow or ice which clings immediately to the +mountains; hence these fissures result. The slower motion of that which is +above can only be attributed to its having to sustain greater friction; +for the rule is that the upper portion is set at a steeper angle than the +lower. As that is the case, we should expect that the upper portion would +move _quicker_ than the lower, and it would do so, doubtless, but for the +retardation of the rocks over which, and through which, it passes.(170) + + + +We crossed the bergschrund of the Dent Blanche, I suppose, at a height of +about 12,000 feet above the level of the sea. Our work may be said to have +commenced at that point. The face, although not steep in its general +inclination, was so cut up by little ridges and cliffs, and so seamed with +incipient couloirs, that it had all the difficulty of a much more +precipitous slope. The difficulties were never great, but they were +numerous, and made a very respectable total when put together. We passed +the bergschrund soon after nine in the morning, and during the next eleven +hours halted only five-and-forty minutes. The whole of the remainder of +the time was occupied in ascending and descending the 2400 feet which +compose this south-western face; and inasmuch as 1000 feet per hour +(taking the mean of ascent and descent) is an ordinary rate of +progression, it is tolerably certain that the Dent Blanche is a mountain +of exceptional difficulty. + +The hindrances opposed to us by the mountain itself were, however, as +nothing compared with the atmospheric obstructions. It is true there was +plenty of, "Are you fast, Almer?" "Yes." "Go ahead, Biener." Biener, made +secure, cried, "Come on, sir," and _Monsieur_ endeavoured. "No, no," said +Almer, "not there,--_here_,"--pointing with his baton to the right place to +clutch. Then 'twas Croz's turn, and we all drew in the rope as the great +man followed. "Forwards" once more--and so on. + +Five hundred feet of this kind of work had been accomplished when we were +saluted (not entirely unexpectedly) by the first gust of a hurricane which +was raging above. The day was a lovely one for dwellers in the valleys, +but we had, long ago, noted some light, gossamer clouds, that were +hovering round our summit, being drawn out in a suspicious manner into +long, silky threads. Croz, indeed, prophesied before we had crossed the +schrund, that we should be beaten by the wind, and had advised that we +should return. But I had retorted, "No, my good Croz, you said just now +'Dent Blanche is best'; we must go up the Dent Blanche." + +I have a very lively and disagreeable recollection of this wind. Upon the +outskirts of the disturbed region it was only felt occasionally. It then +seemed to make rushes at one particular man, and when it had discomfited +him, it whisked itself away to some far-off spot, only to return, +presently, in greater force than before. + +My old enemy--the Matterhorn--seen across the basin of the Z'Muttgletscher, +looked totally unassailable. "Do you think," the men asked, "that you, or +any one else, will ever get up _that_ mountain?" And when, undismayed by +their ridicule, I stoutly answered, "Yes, but not upon that side," they +burst into derisive chuckles. I must confess that my hopes sank; for +nothing can look more completely inaccessible than the Matterhorn on its +northern and north-west sides. + +"Forwards" once again. We overtopped the Dent d'Herens. "Not a thousand +feet more; in three hours we shall be on the summit." "You mean _ten_," +echoed Croz, so slow had been the progress. But I was not far wrong in the +estimate. At 3.15 we struck the great ridge followed by Mr. Kennedy, close +to the top of the mountain. The wind and cold were terrible there. +Progress was oftentimes impossible, and we waited, crouching under the lee +of rocks, listening to "the shrieking of the mindless wind," while the +blasts swept across, tearing off the upper snow and blowing it away in +streamers over the Schoenbuehl glacier--"nothing seen except an indescribable +writhing in the air, like the wind made visible." + +Our goal was concealed by mist, although it was only a few yards away, and +Croz's prophecy, that we should stay all night upon the summit, seemed +likely to come true. The men rose with the occasion, although even _their_ +fingers had nearly lost sensation. There were no murmurings, nor +suggestions of return, and they pressed on for the little white cone which +they knew must be near at hand. Stopped again; a big mass perched loosely +on the ridge barred the way; we could not crawl over, and scarcely dared +creep round it. The wine went round for the last time. The liquor was +half-frozen,--still we would more of it. It was all gone; the bottle was +left behind, and we pushed on, for there was a lull. + +The end came almost before it was expected. The clouds opened, and I saw +that we were all but upon the highest point, and that, between us and it, +about twenty yards off, there was a little artificial pile of stones. +Kennedy was a true man,--it was a cairn which he had erected. "What is +that, Croz?" "_Homme des pierres_," he bawled. It was needless to proceed +farther; I jerked the rope from Biener, and motioned that we should go +back. He did the same to Almer, and we turned immediately. _They_ did not +see the stones (they were cutting footsteps), and misinterpreted the +reason of the retreat. Voices were inaudible, and explanations +impossible.(171) + +We commenced the descent of the face. It was hideous work. The men looked +like impersonations of Winter, with their hair all frosted, and their +beards matted with ice. My hands were numbed--dead. I begged the others to +stop. "_We cannot afford to stop; we must continue to move_," was their +reply. They were right; to stop was to be entirely frozen. So we went +down; gripping rocks varnished with ice, which pulled the skin from the +fingers. Gloves were useless; they became iced too, and the batons slid +through them as slippery as eels. The iron of the axes stuck to the +fingers--it felt red-hot; but it was useless to shrink, the rocks and the +axes had to be firmly grasped--no faltering would do here. + +We turned back at 4.12 P.M., and at 8.15 crossed the bergschrund again, +not having halted for a minute upon the entire descent. During the last +two hours it was windless, but time was of such vital importance that we +pressed on incessantly, and did not stop until we were fairly upon the +glacier. Then we took stock of what remained of the tips of our fingers. +There was not much skin left; they were perfectly raw, and for weeks +afterwards I was reminded of the ascent of the Dent Blanche by the twinges +which I felt when I pulled on my boots. The others escaped with some +slight frost-bites; and, altogether, we had reason to congratulate +ourselves that we got off so lightly. The men complimented me upon the +descent, and I could do the same honestly to them. If they had worked less +vigorously, or harmoniously, we should have been benighted upon the face, +where there was not a single spot upon which it was possible to sit; and +if that had happened, I do not think that one would have survived to tell +the tale. + +We made the descent of the glacier in a mist, and of the moraine at its +base, and of the slopes below, in total darkness, and regained the chalets +of Abricolla at 11.45 P.M. We had been absent eighteen and a half hours, +and out of that time had been going not less than seventeen. That night we +slept the sleep of those who are thoroughly tired.(172) + + + + [Illustration: T. S. KENNEDY.] + +Two days afterwards, when walking into Zermatt, whom should we meet but +Mr. Kennedy. "Hullo!" we said, "we have just seen your cairn on the top of +the Dent Blanche." "No, you haven't," he answered, very positively. "What +do you mean?" "Why, that you cannot have seen my cairn, because I didn't +make one!" "Well, but we saw _a_ cairn." "No doubt; it was made by a man +who went up the mountain last year with Lauener and Zurfluh," "O-o-h," we +said, rather disgusted at hearing news when we expected to communicate +some, "O-o-h! good morning, Kennedy." Before this happened, we managed to +lose our way upon the Col d'Herens; but an account of that must be +reserved for the next chapter. + + + + + + CHAPTER XIV. + + + LOST ON THE COL D'HERENS.--MY SEVENTH ATTEMPT TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN. + + + "Oh! ye immortal gods, where in the world are we?" + CICERO. + + +We should have started for Zermatt about 7 A.M. on the 18th, had not +Biener asked to be allowed to go to mass at Evolene, a village about two +and a half hours from Abricolla. He received permission, on the condition +that he returned not later than mid-day, but he did not come back until +2.30 P.M., and we thereby got into a pretty little mess. + +The pass which we were about to traverse to Zermatt--the Col d'Herens--is +one of the few glacier-passes in this district which have been known +almost from time immemorial. It is frequently crossed in the summer +season, and is a very easy route, notwithstanding that the summit of the +pass is 11,417 feet above the level of the sea.(173) + +From Abricolla to the summit the way lies chiefly over the flat Glacier de +Ferpecle. The walk is of the most straightforward kind. The glacier rises +in gentle undulations; its crevasses are small and easily avoided; and all +you have to do, after once getting upon the ice, is to proceed due south, +in the most direct manner possible. If you do so, in two hours you should +be upon the summit of the pass. + +We tied ourselves in line, of course, when we entered upon the glacier, +and placed Biener to lead, as he had frequently crossed the pass; +supposing that his local knowledge might save us some time upon the other +side. We had proceeded, I believe, about half-way up, when a little, thin +cloud dropped down upon us from above. It was so light and gauzy, that we +did not for a moment suppose it would become embarrassing, and hence I +neglected to note at the proper moment the course which we should +steer,--that is to say, to observe our precise situation, in regard to the +summit of the pass. + +For some little time Biener progressed steadily, making a tolerably +straight track; but at length he wavered, and deviated sometimes to the +right, and sometimes to the left. Croz rushed forward directly he saw +this, and taking the poor young man by his shoulders gave him a good +shaking, told him that he was an imbecile, to untie himself at once, and +to go to the rear. Biener looked half-frightened, and obeyed without a +murmur. Croz led off briskly, and made a good straight track for a few +minutes. Then, it seemed to me, he began to move steadily round to the +left. I looked back, but the mist was now too thick to see our traces, and +so we continued to follow our leader. At last the others (who were behind, +and in a better position to judge) thought the same as I did, and we +pulled up Croz to deliver our opinion. He took our criticism in good part, +but when Biener opened his mouth that was too much for him to stand, and +he told the young man again, "_You_ are imbecile; I bet you twenty francs +to one that _my_ track is better than _yours_; twenty francs, now then, +imbecile!" + +Almer went to the front. He commenced by returning in the track for a +hundred yards or so, and then started off at a tangent from Croz's curve. +We kept this course for half-an-hour, and then were certain that we were +not on the right route, because the snow became decidedly steep. We bore +away more and more to the right, to avoid this steep bank, but at last I +rebelled, as we had for some time been going almost south-west, which was +altogether the wrong direction. After a long discussion we returned some +distance in our track, and then steered a little east of south, but we +continually met steep snow-slopes, and to avoid them went right or left as +the case might require. + +We were greatly puzzled, and could not in the least tell whether we were +too near the Dent Blanche or too close to the Tete Blanche. The mists had +thickened, and were now as dense as a moderate London fog. There were no +rocks or echoes to direct us, and the guidance of the compass brought us +invariably against these steep snow-banks. The men were fairly beaten; +they had all had a try, or more than one, and at last gave it up as a bad +job, and asked what was to be done. It was 7.30 P.M. and only an hour of +daylight was left. We were beginning to feel used up, for we had wandered +about at tip-top speed for the last three hours and a half, so I said, +"This is my advice; let us turn in our track, and go back as hard as ever +we can, not quitting the track for an instant." They were well content, +but just as we were starting off, the clouds lifted a little, and we +thought we saw the Col. It was then to our right, and we went at it with a +dash. Before we had gone a hundred paces down came the mist again. We kept +on nevertheless for twenty minutes, and then, as darkness was perceptibly +coming on, and the snow was yet rising in front, we turned back, and by +running down the entire distance managed to get clear of the Ferpecle +glacier just as it became pitch dark. We arrived at our cheerless chalet +in due course, and went to bed supperless, for our food was gone; all very +sulky--not to say savage--agreeing in nothing except in bullying Biener. + +At 7 A.M. on the 19th, we set out, for the third time, for the Col +d'Herens. It was a fine day, and we gradually recovered our tempers as we +saw the follies which had been committed on the previous evening. Biener's +wavering track was not so bad; but Croz had swerved from the right route +from the first, and had traced a complete semicircle, so that when we +stopped him we were facing Abricolla--whence we had started. Almer had +commenced with great discretion; but he kept on too long, and crossed the +proper route. When I stopped them (because we were going south-west), we +were a long way up the Tete Blanche! Our last attempt was in the right +direction; we were actually upon the summit of the pass, and in another +ten yards we should have commenced to go down hill! It is needless to +point out that if the compass had been looked to at the proper moment--that +is, immediately the mist came down--we should have avoided all our +troubles. It was little use afterwards, except to tell us when we were +going _wrong_. We arrived at Zermatt in six and a half hours' walking from +Abricolla, and Seller's hospitable reception set us all right again. + +On the 20th we crossed the Theodule pass, and diverged from its summit up +the Theodulhorn (11,391) to examine a route which I suggested for the +ascent of the Matterhorn. Before continuing an account of our proceedings, +I must stop for a minute to explain why this new route was proposed, in +place of that up the south-western ridge. + +The main peak of the Matterhorn may be divided into three sections.(174) +The first, facing the Z'Muttgletscher, looks completely unassailable; the +second, facing the east, seems inaccessibility itself; whilst the third, +facing Breil, does not look entirely hopeless. It was from this last +direction that all my previous attempts were made. It was by the +south-western ridge, it will be remembered, that not only I, but Mr. +Hawkins, Professor Tyndall, and the chasseurs of Val Tournanche, essayed +to climb the mountain. Why then abandon a route which had been shown to be +feasible up to a certain point? + +I gave it up for four reasons. 1. On account of my growing disinclination +for aretes, and preference for snow and rock-faces (see Chap. XII.). 2. +Because I was persuaded that meteorological disturbances (by which we had +been baffled several times) might be expected to occur again and +again(175) (see Chaps. IV. and VI.). 3. Because I found that the east face +was a gross imposition--it looked not far from perpendicular; while its +angle was, in fact, scarcely more than 40 deg.. 4. Because I observed for +myself that the strata of the mountain dipped to the west-south-west. It +is not necessary to say anything more than has been already said upon the +first two of these four points, but upon the latter two a few words are +indispensable. Let us consider, first, why most persons receive such an +exaggerated impression of the steepness of the eastern face. + + [Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE RIFFELBERG.] + +When one looks at the Matterhorn from Zermatt, the mountain is regarded +(nearly) from the north-east. The face that fronts the east is +consequently neither seen in profile nor in full front, but almost +half-way between the two; it looks, therefore, more steep than it really +is. The majority of those who visit Zermatt go up to the Riffelberg, or to +the Gornergrat, and from these places, the mountain naturally looks still +more precipitous, because its eastern face (which is almost all that is +seen of it) is viewed more directly in front. From the Riffel hotel the +slope seems to be set at an angle of 70 deg.. If the tourist continues to go +southwards, and crosses the Theodule pass, he gets, at one point, +immediately in front of the eastern face, which then seems to be +absolutely perpendicular. Comparatively few persons correct the erroneous +impressions they receive in these quarters by studying the face in +profile, and most go away with a very incorrect and exaggerated idea of +the precipitousness of this side of the mountain, because they have +considered the question from one point of view alone. + +Several years passed away before I shook myself clear of my early and +false impressions regarding the steepness of this side of the Matterhorn. +First of all, I noticed that there were places on this eastern face where +snow remained permanently all the year round. I do not speak of snow in +gullies, but of the considerable slopes which are seen upon the +accompanying engraving, about half-way up the face. Such beds as these +could not continue to remain throughout the summer, unless the snow had +been able to accumulate in the winter in large masses; and snow cannot +accumulate and remain in large masses, in a situation such as this, at +angles much exceeding 45 deg..(176) Hence I was bound to conclude that the +eastern face was many degrees removed from perpendicularity; and, to be +sure on this point, I went to the slopes between the Z'Muttgletscher and +the Matterhorngletscher, above the chalets of Staffel, whence the face +could be seen in profile. Its appearance from this direction would be +amazing to one who had seen it only from the east. It looks so totally +different from the apparently sheer and perfectly unclimbable cliff one +sees from the Riffelberg, that it is hard to believe the two slopes are +one and the same thing. Its angle scarcely exceeds 40 deg.. + +A great step was made when this was learnt. This knowledge alone would +not, however, have caused me to try an ascent by the eastern face instead +of by the south-west ridge. Forty degrees may not seem a formidable +inclination to the reader, nor is it for only a small cliff. But it is +very unusual to find so steep a gradient maintained continuously as the +general angle of a great mountain-slope, and very few instances can be +quoted from the High Alps of such an angle being preserved over a rise of +3000 feet. + +I do not think that the steepness or the height of this cliff would have +deterred climbers from attempting to ascend it, if it had not, in +addition, looked so repulsively smooth. Men despaired of finding anything +to grasp. Now, some of the difficulties of the south-west ridge came from +the smoothness of the rocks, although that ridge, even from a distance, +seemed to be well broken up. How much greater, then, might not have been +the difficulty of climbing a face which looked smooth and unbroken close +at hand? + +A more serious hindrance to mounting the south-west ridge is found in the +dip of its rocks to the west-south-west. The great mass of the Matterhorn, +it is now well ascertained, is composed of regularly stratified +rocks,(177) which rise towards the east. It has been mentioned in the +text, more than once, that the rocks on some portions of the ridge leading +from the Col du Lion to the summit dip outwards, and that fractured edges +overhang.(178) This is shown in the illustrations facing pp. 76 and 84; +and the annexed diagram, Fig. 1, exhibits the same thing still more +clearly. It will be readily understood that such an arrangement is not +favourable for climbers, and that the degree of facility with which rocks +can be ascended that are so disposed, must depend very much upon the +frequency or paucity of fissures and joints. The rocks of the south-west +ridge are sufficiently provided with cracks, but if it were otherwise, +their texture and arrangement would render them unassailable.(179) + + [Illustration: Diagrams to show dip of strata on the Matterhorn] + +It is not possible to go a single time upon the rocks of the south-west +ridge, from the Col du Lion to the foot of the Great Tower, without +observing the prevalence of their outward dip, and that their fractured +edges have a tendency to overhang; nor can one fail to notice that it is +upon this account the debris, which is rent off by frost, does not remain +_in situ_, but pours down in showers over the surrounding cliffs. Each +day's work, so to speak, is cleared away; the ridge is swept clean; there +is scarcely anything seen but firm rock.(180) + +The fact that the mountain is composed of a series of stratified beds was +pointed out long ago. De Saussure remarked it, and recorded explicitly, in +his _Travels_ (§ 2243), that they "rose to the north-east at an angle of +about 45 deg.." Forbes noticed it also; and gave it as his opinion that the +beds were "less inclined, or nearly horizontal." He added, "De Saussure is +no doubt correct."(181) The truth, I think, lies between the two. + +I was acquainted with both of the above-quoted passages, but did not turn +the knowledge to any practical account until I re-observed the same fact +for myself. It was not until after my repulse in 1863, that I referred the +peculiar difficulties of the south-west ridge to the dip of the strata; +but when once persuaded that structure and not texture was the real +impediment, it was reasonable to infer that the opposite side, that is to +say the eastern face, might be comparatively easy. In brief, that an +arrangement should be found like Fig. 2, instead of like Fig. 1. This +trivial deduction was the key to the ascent of the Matterhorn. + +The point was, Did the strata continue with a similar dip throughout the +mountain? If they did, then this great eastern face, instead of being +hopelessly impracticable, should be quite the reverse.--In fact, it should +be a great natural staircase, with steps inclining inwards; and, if it +were so, its smooth aspect might be of no account, for the smallest steps, +inclined in this fashion, would afford good footing. + +They did so, as far as one could judge from a distance. When snow fell in +the summer time, it brought out long, terraced lines upon the mountain; +rudely parallel to each other; inclined in the direction shown +(approximately) upon the figures in the accompanying plate; and the +eastern face, on those occasions, was often whitened almost completely +over; while the other sides, with the exception of the powdered terraces, +remained black--for the snow could not rest upon them. + + [Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE SUMMIT OF THE THEODULE PASS.] + + [Illustration: THE MATTERHORN FROM THE NORTH-EAST.] + + + THE SPACES BETWEEN THE PARALLEL RED LINES REPRESENT ON AN AVERAGE + A VERTICAL HEIGHT OF ABOUT 60 FEET, BUT, ON ACCOUNT OF + FORESHORTENING, THE HEIGHT BETWEEN THE UPPERMOST LINES IS SOMEWHAT + MORE THAN THIS AMOUNT. + + +The very outline of the mountain, too, confirmed the conjecture that its +structure would assist an ascent on the eastern face, although it opposed +one on all other sides. Look at any photograph of the peak from the +north-east (or, failing one, the outline facing page 230, which is +carefully traced from one), and you will see that upon the right-hand side +(that facing the Z'Muttgletscher) there is an incessant repetition of +overhanging cliffs, and of slopes all trending downwards; in short, that +the character of the whole of that side is similar to Fig. 1, p. 229; and +that upon the left hand (or south-east) ridge, the forms, as far as they +go, are suggestive of the structure of Fig. 2. There is no doubt that the +contours of the mountain, seen from this direction, have been largely +influenced by the direction of its beds. + + + +It was not, therefore, from a freak, that I invited Mr. Reilly to join in +an attack upon the eastern face, but from a gradually-acquired conviction +that it would prove to give the easiest path to the summit; and, if we had +not been obliged to part, the mountain would, doubtless, have been +ascended in 1864. + + + +My guides readily admitted that they had been greatly deceived as to the +steepness of the eastern face, when they were halted to look at it in +profile, as we came down the Z'Muttgletscher, on our way to Zermatt; but +they were far from being satisfied that it would turn out to be easy to +climb, and Almer and Biener expressed themselves decidedly averse to +making an attempt upon it. I gave way temporarily before their evident +reluctance, and we made the ascent of the Theodulhorn to examine an +alternative route, which I expected would commend itself to them in +preference to the other, as a great part of it led over snow. + +There is an immense gully in the Matterhorn, which leads up from the +Glacier du Mont Cervin to a point high up on the south-eastern ridge.(182) +I proposed to ascend this to its head, and to cross over the south-east +ridge on to the eastern face. This would have brought us on a level with +the bottom of the great snow-slope shown upon the centre of the eastern +face in the engraving facing p. 227. This snow-slope was to be crossed +diagonally, with the view of arriving at the snow upon the north-east +ridge, which is shown upon the same engraving, about half-an-inch from the +summit. The remainder of the ascent was to be made by the broken rocks, +mixed with snow, upon the north side of the mountain. Croz caught the idea +immediately, and thought the plan feasible; details were settled, and we +descended to Breil. Luc Meynet, the hunchback, was summoned, and expressed +himself delighted to resume his old vocation of tent-bearer; and Favre's +kitchen was soon in commotion preparing three days' rations, for I +intended to take that amount of time over the affair--to sleep on the first +night upon the rocks at the top of the gully; to make a push for the +summit, and to return to the tent on the second day; and upon the third to +come back to Breil. + +We started at 5.45 A.M. on June 21, and followed the route of the +Breuiljoch(183) for three hours. We were then in full view of our gully, +and turned off at right angles for it. The closer we approached, the more +favourable did it look. There was a good deal of snow in it, which was +evidently at a small angle, and it seemed as if one-third of the ascent, +at least, would be a very simple matter. Some suspicious marks in the snow +at its base suggested that it was not free from falling stones, and, as a +measure of precaution, we turned off on one side, worked up under cover of +the cliffs, and waited to see if anything should descend. Nothing fell, so +we proceeded up its right or northern side, sometimes cutting steps up the +snow and sometimes mounting by the rocks. Shortly before 10 A.M. we +arrived at a convenient place for a halt, and stopped to rest upon some +rocks, immediately close to the snow, which commanded an excellent view of +the gully. + +While the men were unpacking the food I went to a little promontory to +examine our proposed route more narrowly, and to admire our noble couloir, +which led straight up into the heart of the mountain for fully one +thousand feet. It then bent towards the north, and ran up to the crest of +the south-eastern ridge. My curiosity was piqued to know what was round +this corner, and whilst I was gazing up at it, and following with the eye +the exquisitely drawn curves which wandered down the snow in the gully, +all converging to a large rut in its centre, I saw a few little stones +skidding down. I consoled myself with thinking that they would not +interfere with us if we adhered to the side. But then a larger one came +down, a solitary fellow, rushing at the rate of sixty miles an hour--and +another--and another. I was unwilling to raise the fears of the men +unnecessarily, and said nothing to them. They did not hear the stones. +Almer was seated on a rock, carving large slices from a leg of mutton, the +others were chatting, and the first intimation they had of danger was from +a crash--a sudden roar--which reverberated awfully amongst the cliffs, and, +looking up, they saw masses of rocks, boulders and stones, big and little, +dart round the corner eight hundred feet or so above us, fly with fearful +fury against the opposite cliffs, rebound from them against the walls on +our side, and descend; some ricochetting from side to side in a frantic +manner; some bounding down in leaps of a hundred feet or more over the +snow; and others trailing down in a jumbled, confused mass, mixed with +snow and ice, deepening the grooves which, a moment before, had excited my +admiration. + +The men looked wildly around for protection, and, dropping the food, +dashed under cover in all directions. The precious mutton was pitched on +one side, the wine-bag was let fall, and its contents gushed out from the +unclosed neck, whilst all four cowered under defending rocks, endeavouring +to make themselves as small as possible. Let it not be supposed that their +fright was unreasonable, or that I was free from it. I took good care to +make myself safe, and went and cringed in a cleft until the storm had +passed. But their scramble to get under shelter was indescribably +ludicrous. Such a panic I have never witnessed, before or since, upon a +mountain-side.(184) + +This ricochet practice was a novelty to me. It arose, of course, from the +couloir being bent, and from the falling rocks having acquired great pace +before they passed the angle. In straight gullies it will, probably, never +be experienced. The rule is, as I have already remarked, that falling +stones keep down the centres of gullies, and they are out of harm's way if +one follows the sides. + + [Illustration: MY TENT-BEARER--THE HUNCHBACK.] + +There would have been singularly little amusement, and very great risk, in +mounting this gully, and we turned our backs upon it with perfect +unanimity. The question then arose, "What is to be done?" I suggested +climbing the rocks above us, but this was voted impossible. I thought the +men were right, yet would not give in without being assured of the fact, +and clambered up to settle the question. In a few minutes I was brought to +a halt. My forces were scattered; the little hunchback alone was closely +following me--with a broad grin upon his face, and the tent upon his +shoulder; Croz, more behind, was still keeping an eye upon his _Monsieur_; +Almer, a hundred feet below, sat on a rock with his face buried in his +hands; Biener was nowhere, out of sight. "Come down, come down," shouted +Croz; "it is useless," and I turned at length, convinced that it was even +as he said. Thus my little plan was knocked on the head, and we were +thrown back upon the original scheme. + +We at once made a straight track for Mr. Morshead's Breuiljoch(185) (which +was the most direct route to take in order to get to the Hoernli, where we +intended to sleep, preparatory to attacking the eastern face), and arrived +upon its summit at 12.30 P.M. We were then unexpectedly checked. The pass, +as one, had vanished! and we found ourselves cut off from the +Furggengletscher by a small but precipitous wall of rock;--the glacier had +shrunk so much that descent was impracticable. During the last hour clouds +had been coming up from the south; they now surrounded us, and it began to +blow hard. The men clustered together, and advocated leaving the mountain +alone. Almer asked, with more point than politeness, "Why don't you try to +go up a mountain which _can_ be ascended?" "It is impossible," chimed in +Biener. "Sir," said Croz, "if we cross to the other side we shall lose +three days, and very likely shall not succeed. You want to make ascents in +the chain of Mont Blanc, and I believe they can be made. But I shall not +be able to make them with you if I spend these days here, for I must be at +Chamounix on the 27th." There was force in what he said, and his words +made me hesitate. I relied upon his strong arms for some work which it was +expected would be unusually difficult. Snow began to fall; that settled +the matter, and I gave the word to retreat. We went back to Breil, and on +to the village of Val Tournanche, where we slept; and the next day +proceeded to Chatillon, and thence up the Valley of Aosta to Courmayeur. + +I cannot but regret that the counsels of the guides prevailed. If Croz had +not uttered his well-intentioned words, he might still have been living. +He parted from us at Chamounix at the appointed time, but by a strange +chance we met again at Zermatt three weeks later, and two days afterwards +he perished before my eyes on the very mountain from which we turned away, +at his advice, on the 21st of June. + + + +On June 23 we mounted to the top of Mont Saxe, to scan the Grandes +Jorasses, with the view of ascending it. Five thousand feet of +glacier-covered precipices rose above us, and up all that height we +tracked a way to our satisfaction. Three thousand feet more of glacier and +forest-covered slopes lay beneath, and _there_, there was only one point +at which it was doubtful if we should find a path. The glaciers were +shrinking, and were surrounded by bastions of rounded rock, far too +polished to please the rough mountaineer. We could not track a way across +them. However, at 4 A.M. the next day, under the dexterous leading of +Michel Croz, we passed the doubtful spot. Thence it was all plain sailing, +and at 1 P.M. we gained the summit. The weather was boisterous in the +upper regions, and storm-clouds driven before the wind, and wrecked +against our heights, enveloped us in misty spray, which danced around and +fled away, which cut us off from the material universe, and caused us to +be, as it were, suspended betwixt heaven and earth, seeing both +occasionally, but seeming to belong to neither. + +The mists lasted longer than my patience, and we descended without having +attained the object for which the ascent was made. At first we followed +the little ridge shown upon the accompanying engraving, leading from our +summit towards the spectator, and then took to the head of the corridor of +glacier on its left, which in the view is left perfectly white. The slopes +were steep and covered with new-fallen snow, flour-like and evil to tread +upon. On the ascent we had reviled it, and had made our staircase with +much caution, knowing full well that the disturbance of its base would +bring down all that was above. In descending, the bolder spirits +counselled trusting to luck and a glissade; the cautious ones advocated +avoiding the slopes and crossing to the rocks on their farther side. The +advice of the latter prevailed, and we had half-traversed the snow, to +gain the ridge, when the crust slipped and we went along with it. "Halt!" +broke from all four, unanimously. The axe-heads flew round as we started +on this involuntary glissade. It was useless, they slid over the +underlying ice fruitlessly. "Halt!" thundered Croz, as he dashed his +weapon in again with superhuman energy. No halt could be made, and we slid +down slowly, but with accelerating motion, driving up waves of snow in +front, with streams of the nasty stuff hissing all around. Luckily, the +slope eased off at one place, the leading men cleverly jumped aside out of +the moving snow, we others followed, and the young avalanche which we had +started, continuing to pour down, fell into a yawning crevasse, and showed +us where our grave would have been if we had remained in its company five +seconds longer. The whole affair did not occupy half-a-minute. It was the +solitary incident of a long day, and at nightfall we re-entered the +excellent house kept by the courteous Bertolini, well satisfied that we +had not met with more incidents of a similar description.(186) + + [Illustration: THE GRANDES JORASSES AND THE DOIRE TORRENT, FROM THE + ITALIAN VAL FERRET.] + + + + + + CHAPTER XV. + + + THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DOLENT. + + + "Men willingly believe what they wish."--CAESAR. + + +Freethinking mountaineers have been latterly in the habit of going up one +side of an Alp and coming down the other, and calling the route a pass. In +this confusion of ideas may be recognised the result of the looseness of +thought which arises from the absence of technical education. The true +believer abhors such heresies, and observes with satisfaction that +Providence oftentimes punishes the offenders for their greediness by +causing them to be benighted. The faithful know that passes must be made +_between_ mountains, and not over their tops. Their creed declares that +between any two mountains there _must_ be a pass, and they believe that +the end for which big peaks were created--the office they are especially +designed to fulfil--is to point out the way one should go. This is the true +faith, and there is no other. + +We set out upon the 26th of June to endeavour to add one more to the +passes which are strictly orthodox. We hoped, rather than expected, to +discover a quicker route from Courmayeur to Chamounix than the Col du +Geant, which was the easiest, quickest, and most direct pass known at the +time across the main chain of Mont Blanc.(187) The misgivings which I had +as to the result caused us to start at the unusual hour of 12.40 A.M. At +4.30 we passed the chalets of Pre du Bar, and thence, for some distance, +followed the track which we had made upon the ascent of Mont Dolent, over +the glacier of the same name (p. 182). At a quarter past 8 we arrived at +the head of the glacier, and at the foot of the only steep gradient upon +the whole of the ascent. + +It was the beau-ideal of a pass. There was a gap in the mountains, with a +big peak on each side (Mount Dolent and the Aig. de Triolet). A narrow +thread of snow led up to the lowest point between those mountains, and the +blue sky beyond said, Directly you arrive here you will begin to go down. +We addressed ourselves to our task, and at 10.15 A.M. arrived at the top +of the pass. + +Had things gone as they ought, within six hours more we should have been +at Chamounix. Upon the other side we knew that there was a couloir in +correspondence with that up which we had just come. If it had been filled +with snow all would have been well. It turned out to be filled with ice. +Croz, who led, passed over to the other side, and reported that we should +get down somehow, but I knew from the sound of his axe how the somehow +would be, and settled myself to sketch, well assured that _I_ should not +be wanted for an hour to come. What I saw is shown in the engraving. A +sharp aiguille (nameless), perhaps the sharpest in the whole range, backed +on the left by the Aig. de Triolet; queer blocks of (probably) protogine +sticking out awkwardly through the snow; and a huge cornice from which big +icicles depended, that broke away occasionally and went skiddling down the +slope up which we had come. Of the Argentiere side I could not see +anything. + +Croz was tied up with our good Manilla rope, and the whole 200 feet were +payed out gradually by Almer and Biener before he ceased working. After +two hours' incessant toil, he was able to anchor himself to the rock on +his right. He then untied himself, the rope was drawn in, Biener was +attached to the end and went down to join his comrade. There was then room +enough for me to stand by the side of Almer, and I got my first view of +the other side. For the first and only time in my life I looked down a +slope more than a thousand feet long, set at an angle of about 50 deg., which +was a sheet of ice from top to bottom. It was unbroken by rock or crag, +and anything thrown down it sped away unarrested until the level of the +Glacier d'Argentiere was reached. The entire basin of that noble +glacier(188) was spread out at our feet, and the ridge beyond, culminating +in the Aig. d'Argentiere, was seen to the greatest advantage. I confess, +however, that I paid very little attention to the view, for there was no +time to indulge in such luxuries. I descended the icy staircase and joined +the others, and then we three drew in the rope tenderly as Almer came +down. His was not an enviable position, but he descended with as much +steadiness as if his whole life had been passed on ice-slopes of 50 deg.. The +process was repeated; Croz again going to the front, and availing himself +very skilfully of the rocks which projected from the cliff on our right. +Our 200 feet of rope again came to an end, and we again descended one by +one. From this point we were able to clamber down by the rocks alone for +about 300 feet. They then became sheer cliff, and we stopped for dinner, +about 2.30 P.M., at the last place upon which we could sit. Four hours' +incessant work had brought us rather more than half-way down the gully. We +were now approaching, although we were still high above, the schrunds at +its base, and the guides made out, in some way unknown to me, that Nature +had perversely placed the only snow-bridge across the topmost one towards +the centre of the gully. It was decided to cut diagonally across the gully +to the point where the snow-bridge was supposed to be. Almer and Biener +undertook the work, leaving Croz and myself firmly planted on the rocks to +pay out the rope to them as they advanced. + + [Illustration: THE SUMMIT OF THE COL DOLENT.] + +It is generally admitted that veritable ice-slopes (understanding by ice +something more than a crust of hard snow over soft snow) are only rarely +met with in the Alps. They are frequently spoken of, but such as that to +which I refer are _very_ rarely seen, and still more seldom traversed. It +is, however, always possible that they may be encountered, and on this +account, if for no other, it is necessary for men who go mountaineering to +be armed with ice-axes, and with good ones. The form is of more importance +than might be supposed. Of course, if you intend to act as a simple +amateur, and let others do the work, and only follow in their steps, it is +not of much importance what kind of ice-axe you carry, so long as its head +does not fall off, or otherwise behave itself improperly.(189) There is no +better weapon for cutting steps in ice than a common pick-axe, and the +form of ice-axe which is now usually employed by the best guides is very +like a miniature pick. My own axe is copied from Melchior Anderegg's. It +is of wrought iron, with point and edge steeled. Its weight, including +spiked handle, is four pounds. For cutting steps in ice, the pointed end +of the head is almost exclusively employed; the adze-end is handy for +polishing them up, but is principally used for cutting in hard snow. Apart +from its value as a cutting weapon, it is invaluable as a grapnel. It is +naturally a rather awkward implement when it is not being employed for its +legitimate purpose, and is likely to give rise to much strong language in +crushes at railway termini, unless its head is protected with a leathern +cap, or in some other way. Many attempts have been made, for the sake of +convenience, to fashion an ice-axe with a movable head, but it seems +difficult or impossible to produce one except at the expense of cutting +qualities, and by increasing the weight. + + [Illustration: MY ICE-AXE.] + + [Illustration: KENNEDY ICE-AXE.] + + [Illustration: THE "LESLIE STEPHEN" AXE.] + +Mr. T. S. Kennedy (of the firm of Fairbairn & Co.), whose practical +acquaintance with mountaineering, and with the use and manufacture of +tools, makes his opinion particularly valuable, has contrived the best +that I have seen; but even it seems to me to be deficient in rigidity, and +not to be so powerful a weapon as the more common kind with the fixed +head. The simple instrument which is shown in the annexed diagram is the +invention of Mr. Leslie Stephen, and it answers the purposes for which he +devised it, namely, for giving better hold upon snow and ice than can be +obtained from the common alpenstock, and for cutting an occasional step. +The amateur scarcely requires anything more imposing, but for serious +ice-work a heavier weapon is indispensable. + +To persons armed with the proper tools, ice-slopes are not so dangerous as +many places which appeal less to the imagination. Their ascent or descent +is necessarily laborious (to those who do the work), and they may +therefore be termed difficult. They _ought_ not to be dangerous. Yet they +always seem dangerous, for one is profoundly convinced that if he slips he +will certainly go to the bottom. Hence, any man, who is not a fool, takes +particular care to preserve his balance, and, in consequence, we have the +noteworthy fact that accidents have seldom or never taken place upon +ice-slopes. + +The same slopes covered with snow are much less impressive, and _may_ be +much more dangerous. They may be less slippery, the balance may be more +easily preserved, and if one man slips he may be stopped by his own +personal efforts, provided the snow which over-lies the ice is +consolidated and of a reasonable depth. But if, as is more likely to be +the case upon an angle of 50 deg. (or anything approaching that angle), there +is only a thin stratum of snow which is not consolidated, the occurrence +of a slip will most likely take the entire party as low as possible, and +in addition to the chance of broken necks, there will be a strong +probability that some, at least, will be smothered by the dislodged snow. +Such accidents are far too common, and their occurrence, as a rule, may be +traced to the want of caution which is induced by the apparent absence of +danger. + +I do not believe that the use of the rope, in the ordinary way, affords +the least _real_ security upon ice-slopes. Nor do I think that any benefit +is derived from the employment of crampons. Mr. Kennedy was good enough to +present me with a pair some time ago, and one of these has been engraved. +They are the best variety I have seen of the species, but I only feel +comfortable with them on my feet in places where they are not of the +slightest use, that is in situations where there is no possibility of +slipping, and would not wear them upon an ice-slope for any consideration +whatever. All such adventitious aids are useless if you have not a good +step in the ice to stand upon, and if you have got that, nothing more is +wanted except a few nails in the boots. + + [Illustration: Crampon] + +Almer and Biener got to the end of their tether; the rope no longer +assured their safety, and they stopped work as we advanced and coiled it +up. Shortly afterwards they struck a streak of snow that proved to be just +above the bridge of which they were in search. The slope steepened, and +for thirty feet or so we descended face to the wall, making steps by +kicking with the toes, and thrusting the arms well into the holes above, +just as if they had been rounds in a ladder. At this time we were crossing +the uppermost of the schrunds. Needless to say that the snow was of an +admirable quality; this performance would otherwise have been impossible. +It was soon over, and we then found ourselves upon a huge rhomboidal mass +of ice, and still separated from the Argentiere glacier by a gigantic +crevasse. The only bridge over this lower schrund was at its eastern end, +and we were obliged to double back to get to it. Cutting continued for +half-an-hour after it was passed, and it was 5.35 P.M. before the axes +stopped work, and we could at last turn back and look comfortably at the +formidable slope upon which seven hours had been spent.(190) + +The Col Dolent is not likely to compete with the Col du Geant, and I would +recommend any person who starts to cross it to allow himself plenty of +time, plenty of rope, and ample guide-power. There is no difficulty +whatever upon any part of the route, excepting upon the steep slopes +immediately below the summit on each side. When we arrived upon the +Glacier d'Argentiere, our work was as good as over. We drove a straight +track to the chalets of Lognan, and thence the way led over familiar +ground. Soon after dusk we got into the high road at les Tines, and at 10 +P.M. arrived at Chamounix. Our labours were duly rewarded. Houris brought +us champagne and the other drinks which are reserved for the faithful, but +before my share was consumed I fell asleep in an arm-chair. I slept +soundly until daybreak, and then turned into bed and went to sleep again. + + + + + + CHAPTER XVI. + + + THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE AIGUILLE VERTE. + + + "Few have the fortitude of soul to honour, + A friend's success, without a touch of envy." + AESCHYLUS. + + +Michel Croz now parted from us. His new employer had not arrived at +Chamounix, but Croz considered that he was bound by honour to wait for +him, and thus Christian Almer, of Grindelwald, became my leading guide. + +Almer displayed aptitude for mountaineering at an early age. Whilst still +a very young man he was known as a crack chamois-hunter, and he soon +developed into an accomplished guide. Those who have read Mr. Wills' +graphic account of the first ascent of the Wetterhorn(191) will remember +that, when his party was approaching the top of the mountain, two stranger +men were seen climbing by a slightly different route, one of whom carried +upon his back a young fir-tree, branches, leaves, and all. Mr. Wills' +guides were extremely indignant with these two strangers (who were +evidently determined to be the first at the summit), and talked of giving +them blows. Eventually they gave them a cake of chocolate instead, and +declared that they were good fellows. "Thus the pipe of peace was smoked, +and tranquillity reigned between the rival forces." Christian Almer was +one of these two men. + +This was in 1854. In 1858-9 he made the first ascents of the Eigher and +the Moench, the former with a Mr. Harrington (?), and the latter with Dr. +Porges. Since then he has wandered far and near, from Dauphine to the +Tyrol.(192) With the exception of Melchior Anderegg, there is not, +perhaps, another guide of such wide experience, or one who has been so +invariably successful; and his numerous employers concur in saying that +there is not a truer heart or a surer foot to be found amongst the Alps. + + [Illustration: CHRISTIAN ALMER.(193)] + +Before recrossing the chain to Courmayeur, we ascended the Aiguille Verte. +In company with Mr. Reilly I inspected this mountain from every direction +in 1864, and came to the conclusion that an ascent could more easily be +made from the south than upon any other side. We set out upon the 28th +from Chamounix to attack it, minus Croz, and plus a porter (of whom I will +speak more particularly presently), leaving our comrade very downcast at +having to kick his heels in idleness, whilst we were about to scale the +most celebrated of his native Aiguilles. + +Our course led us over the old Mer de Glace--the glacier made famous by De +Saussure and Forbes. The heat of the day was over, but the little rills +and rivulets were still flowing along the surface of the ice: cutting deep +troughs where the gradients were small; leaving ripple-marks where the +water was with more difficulty confined to one channel; and falling over +the precipitous walls of the great crevasses, sometimes in bounding +cascades, and sometimes in diffused streams, which marked the +perpendicular faces with graceful sinuosities.(194) As night came on, +their music died away, the rivulets dwindled down to rills; the rills +ceased to murmur, and the sparkling drops, caught by the hand of frost, +were bound to the ice, coating it with an enamelled film which lasted +until the sun struck the glacier once more. + + [Illustration: ON THE MER DE GLACE.] + +We camped on the Couvercle (7800) under a great rock, and at 3.15 the next +morning started for our aiguille, leaving the porter in charge of the tent +and of the food. Two hours' walking over crisp snow brought us up more +than 4000 feet, and within about 1600 feet of the summit. From no other +direction can it be approached so closely with equal facility. Thence the +mountain steepens. After his late severe piece of ice-work, Almer had a +natural inclination for rocks; but the lower rocks of the final peak of +the Verte were not inviting, and he went on and on, looking for a way up +them, until we arrived in front of a great snow couloir that led from the +Glacier de Talefre right up to the crest of the ridge connecting the +summit of the Verte with the mountain called Les Droites. This was the +route which I intended to be taken; but Almer pointed out that the gully +narrowed at the lower part, and that, if stones fell, we should stand some +chance of getting our heads broken; and so we went on still more to the +east of the summit, to another and smaller couloir which ran up side by +side with the great one. At 5.30 we crossed the schrund which protected +the final peak, and, a few minutes afterwards, saw the summit and the +whole of the intervening route. "Oh! Aiguille Verte," said my guide, +stopping as he said it, "you are dead, you are dead;" which, being +translated into plain English, meant that he was cock-sure we should make +its ascent. + +Almer is a quiet man at all times. When climbing he is taciturn--and this +is one of his great merits. A garrulous man is always a nuisance, and upon +the mountain-side he may be a danger, for actual climbing requires a man's +whole attention. Added to this, talkative men are hindrances; they are +usually thirsty, and a thirsty man is a drag. + +Guide-books recommend mountain-walkers to suck pebbles, to prevent their +throats from becoming parched. There is not much goodness to be got out of +the pebbles; but you cannot suck them and keep the mouth open at the same +time, and hence the throat does not become dry. It answers just as well to +keep the mouth shut, without any pebbles inside,--indeed, I think, better; +for if you have occasion to open your mouth, you can do so without +swallowing any pebbles.(195) As a rule, amateurs, and particularly +novices, _will not_ keep their mouths shut. They attempt to "force the +pace," they go faster than they can go without being compelled to open +their mouths to breathe, they pant, their throats and tongues become +parched, they drink and perspire copiously, and, becoming exhausted, +declare that the dryness of the air, or the rarefaction of the air +(everything is laid upon the air), is in fault. On several accounts, +therefore, a mountain-climber does well to hold his tongue when he is at +his work. + +At the top of the small gully we crossed over the intervening rocks into +the large one, and followed it so long as it was filled with snow. At last +ice replaced snow, and we turned over to the rocks upon its left. Charming +rocks they were; granitic in texture,(196) gritty, holding the nails well. +At 9.45 we parted from them, and completed the ascent by a little ridge of +snow which descended in the direction of the Aiguille du Moine. At 10.15 +we stood on the summit (13,540), and devoured our bread and cheese with a +good appetite. + +I have already spoken of the disappointing nature of purely panoramic +views. That seen from Mont Blanc itself is notoriously unsatisfactory. +When you are upon that summit you look down upon all the rest of Europe. +There is nothing to look up to; all is below; there is no one point for +the eye to rest upon. The man who is there is somewhat in the position of +one who has attained all that he desires,--he has nothing to aspire to; his +position must needs be unsatisfactory. Upon the summit of the Verte there +is not this objection. You see valleys, villages, fields; you see +mountains interminable rolling away, lakes resting in their hollows; you +hear the tinkling of the sheep-bells as it rises through the clear +mountain air, and the roar of the avalanches as they descend to the +valleys: but above all there is the great white dome, with its shining +crest high above; with its sparkling glaciers that descend between +buttresses which support them: with its brilliant snows, purer and yet +purer the farther they are removed from this unclean world.(197) + +Even upon this mountain-top it was impossible to forget the world, for +some vile wretch came to the Jardin and made hideous sounds by blowing +through a horn. Whilst we were denouncing him a change came over the +weather; cumulous clouds gathered in all directions, and we started off in +hot haste. Snow began to fall heavily before we were off the summit-rocks, +our track was obscured and frequently lost, and everything became so +sloppy and slippery that the descent took as long as the ascent. The +schrund was recrossed at 3.15 P.M., and thence we raced down to the +Couvercle, intending to have a carouse there; but as we rounded our rock a +howl broke simultaneously from all three of us, for the porter had taken +down the tent, and was in the act of moving off with it. "Stop, there! +what are you doing?" He observed that he had thought we were killed, or at +least lost, and was going to Chamounix to communicate his ideas to the +_guide chef_. "Unfasten the tent, and get out the food." Instead of doing +so the porter fumbled in his pockets. "Get out the food," we roared, +losing all patience. "Here it is," said our worthy friend, producing a +dirty piece of bread about as big as a halfpenny roll. We three looked +solemnly at the fluff-covered morsel. It was past a joke,--he had devoured +everything. Mutton, loaves, cheese, wine, eggs, sausages--all was gone--past +recovery. It was idle to grumble, and useless to wait. We were light, and +could move quickly,--the porter was laden inside and out. We went our +hardest,--he had to shuffle and trot. He streamed with perspiration; the +mutton and cheese oozed out in big drops,--he larded the glacier. We had +our revenge, and dried our clothes at the same time, but when we arrived +at the Montanvert the porter was as wet as we had been upon our arrival at +the Couvercle. We halted at the inn to get a little food, and at a quarter +past eight re-entered Chamounix, amidst firing of cannon and other +demonstrations of satisfaction on the part of the hotel-keepers. + +One would have thought that the ascent of this mountain, which had been +frequently assailed before without success, would have afforded some +gratification to a population whose chief support is derived from +tourists, and that the prospect of the perennial flow of francs which +might be expected to result from it would have stifled the jealousy +consequent on the success of foreigners.(198) + +It was not so. Chamounix stood on its rights. A stranger had ignored the +"regulations," had imported two foreign guides, and, furthermore, he had +added injury to that insult--he had not taken a single Chamounix guide. +Chamounix would be revenged! It would bully the foreign guides; it would +tell them they had lied,--that they had not made the ascent! Where were +their proofs? Where was the flag upon the summit? + +Poor Almer and Biener were accordingly chivied from pillar to post, from +one inn to another, and at length complained to me. Peter Perrn, the +Zermatt guide, said on the night that we returned that this was to happen, +but the story seemed too absurd to be true. I now bade my men go out +again, and followed them myself to see the sport. Chamounix was greatly +excited. The _bureau_ of the _guide chef_ was thronged with clamouring +men. Their ringleader--one Zacharie Cachat--a well-known guide, of no +particular merit, but not a bad fellow, was haranguing the multitude. He +met with more than his match. My friend Kennedy, who was on the spot, +heard of the disturbance and rushed into the fray, confronted the burly +guide, and thrust back his absurdities into his teeth. + +There were the materials for a very pretty riot; but they manage these +things better in France than we do, and the gensdarmes--three strong--came +down and dispersed the crowd. The guides quailed before the cocked hats, +and retired to cabarets to take little glasses of absinthe and other +liquors more or less injurious to the human frame. Under the influence of +these stimulants, they conceived an idea which combined revenge with +profit. "You have ascended the Aiguille Verte, you say. _We_ say we don't +believe it. _We_ say, do it again! Take three of us with you, and we will +bet you two thousand francs to one thousand, that you won't make the +ascent!" + +This proposition was formally notified to me, but I declined it, with +thanks, and recommended Kennedy to go in and win. I accepted, however, a +hundred franc share in the bet, and calculated upon getting two hundred +per cent on my investment. Alas! how vain are human expectations! Zacharie +Cachat was put into confinement, and although Kennedy actually ascended +the Aiguille a week later, with two Chamounix guides and Peter Perrn, the +bet came to nothing.(199) + +The weather arranged itself just as this storm in a teapot blew over, and +we left at once for the Montanvert, in order to show the Chamouniards the +easiest way over the chain of Mont Blanc, in return for the civilities +which we had received from them during the past three days. + + [Illustration: WESTERN SIDE OF THE COL DE TALEFRE.] + + + + + + CHAPTER XVII. + + + THE FIRST PASSAGE OF THE COL DE TALEFRE. + + + "'Tis more by art than force of numerous strokes." + HOMER. + + +The person who discovered the Col du Geant must have been a shrewd +mountaineer. The pass was in use before any other was known across the +main chain of Mont Blanc, and down to the present time it remains the +easiest and quickest route from Chamounix to Courmayeur, with the single +exception of the pass that we crossed upon the 3d of July, for the first +time, which lies about mid-way between the Aiguille de Triolet and the +Aiguille de Talefre, and which, for want of a better name, I have called +the Col de Talefre. + +When one looks toward the upper end of the Glacier de Talefre from the +direction of the Jardin or of the Couvercle, the ridge that bounds the +view seems to be of little elevation. It is overpowered by the colossal +Grandes Jorasses, and by the almost equally magnificent Aiguille Verte. +The ridge, notwithstanding, is by no means despicable. At no point is its +elevation less than 11,600 feet. It does not look anything like this +height. The Glacier de Talefre mounts with a steady incline, and the eye +is completely deceived. + +In 1864, when prowling about with Mr. Reilly, I instinctively fixed upon a +bent couloir which led up from the glacier to the lowest part of the +ridge; and when, after crossing the Col de Triolet, I saw that the other +side presented no particular difficulty, it seemed to me that this was the +_one_ point in the whole of the range which would afford an easier passage +than the Col du Geant. + +We set out from the Montanvert at 4 A.M. upon July 3, to see whether this +opinion was correct, and it fortunately happened that the Rev. A. G. +Girdlestone and a friend, with two Chamounix guides, left the inn at the +same hour as ourselves, to cross the Col du Geant. We kept in company as +far as our routes lay together, and at 9.35 we arrived at the top of our +pass, having taken the route to the south of the Jardin. Description is +unnecessary, as our track is laid down very clearly on the engraving at +the head of this chapter. + +Much snow had fallen during the late bad weather, and as we reposed upon +the top of our pass (which was about 11,650 feet above the level of the +sea, and 600 feet above the Col du Geant), we saw that the descent of the +rocks which intervened between us and the Glacier de Triolet would require +some caution, for the sun's rays poured down directly upon them, and the +snow slipped away every now and then from ledge to ledge just as if it had +been water,--in cascades not large enough to be imposing, but sufficient to +knock us over if we got in their way. This little bit of cliff +consequently took a longer time than it should have done, for when we +heard the indescribable swishing, hissing sound which announced a coming +fall, we of necessity huddled under the lee of the rocks until the snow +ceased to shoot over us. + +We got to the level of the Glacier de Triolet without misadventure, then +steered for its left bank to avoid the upper of its two formidable +ice-falls, and after descending the requisite distance by some old snow +lying between the glacier and the cliffs which border it, crossed directly +to the right bank over the level ice between the two ice-falls.(200) The +right bank was gained without any trouble, and we found there numerous +beds of hard snow (avalanche debris) down which we could run or glissade +as fast as we liked. + +Glissading is a very pleasant employment when it is accomplished +successfully, and I have never seen a place where it can be more safely +indulged in than the snowy valley on the right bank of the Glacier de +Triolet. In my dreams I glissade delightfully, but in practice I find that +somehow the snow will not behave properly, and that my alpenstock _will_ +get between my legs. Then my legs go where my head should be, and I see +the sky revolving at a rapid pace; the snow rises up and smites me, and +runs away; and when it is at last overtaken it suddenly stops, and we come +into violent collision. Those who are with me say that I tumble head over +heels, and there may be some truth in what they say. Streaks of ice are +apt to make the heels shoot away, and stray stones cause one to pitch +headlong down. Somehow these things always seem to come in the way, so it +is as well to glissade only when there is something soft to tumble +into.(201) + + [Illustration: Glissading] + +Near the termination of the glacier we could not avoid traversing a +portion of its abominable moraine, but at 1.30 P.M. we were clear of it, +and threw ourselves upon some springy turf conscious that our day's work +was over. An hour afterwards we resumed the march, crossed the Doire +torrent by a bridge a little below Gruetta, and at five o'clock entered +Courmayeur, having occupied somewhat less than ten hours on the way. Mr. +Girdlestone's party came in, I believe, about four hours afterwards, so +there was no doubt that we made a shorter pass than the Col du Geant; and +I believe we discovered a quicker way of getting from Chamounix to +Courmayeur, or _vice versa_, than will be found elsewhere, so long as the +chain of Mont Blanc remains in its present condition.(202) + + + + + + CHAPTER XVIII. + + + THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE RUINETTE--THE MATTERHORN. + + + "In almost every art, experience is worth more than precepts." + QUINTILIAN. + + +All of the excursions that were set down in my programme had been carried +out, with the exception of the ascent of the Matterhorn, and we now turned +our faces in its direction, but instead of returning _via_ the Val +Tournanche, we took a route across country, and bagged upon our way the +summit of the Ruinette. + +We passed the night of July 4, at Aosta, under the roof of the genial +Tairraz, and on the 5th went by the Val d'Ollomont and the Col de la +Fenetre (9140) to Chermontane. We slept that night at the chalets of +Chanrion (a foul spot, which should be avoided), left them at 3.50 the +next morning, and after a short scramble over the slope above, and a +half-mile tramp on the glacier de Breney, we crossed directly to the +Ruinette, and went almost straight up it. There is not, I suppose, another +mountain in the Alps of the same height that can be ascended so easily. +You have only to go ahead: upon its southern side one can walk about +almost anywhere. + +Though I speak thus slightingly of a very respectable peak, I will not do +anything of the kind in regard to the view which it gives. It is happily +placed in respect to the rest of the Pennine Alps, and as a stand-point it +has not many superiors. You see mountains, and nothing but mountains. It +is a solemn--some would say a dreary--view, but it is very grand. The great +Combin (14,164), with its noble background of the whole range of Mont +Blanc, never looks so big as it does from here. In the contrary direction, +the Matterhorn overpowers all besides. The Dent d'Herens, although closer, +looks a mere outlier of its great neighbour, and the snows of Monte Rosa, +behind, seem intended for no other purpose than to give relief to the +crags in front. To the south there is an endless array of Bec's and +Becca's, backed by the great Italian peaks, whilst to the north Mont +Pleureur (12,159) holds it own against the more distant Wildstrubel. + +We gained the summit at 9.15,(203) and stayed there an hour and a half. My +faithful guides then admonished me that Prerayen, whither we were bound, +was still far away, and that we had yet to cross two lofty ridges. So we +resumed our harness and departed; not, however, before a huge cairn had +been built out of the blocks of gneiss with which the summit is bestrewn. +Then we trotted down the slopes of the Ruinette, over the glacier de +Breney, and across a pass which (if it deserves a name) may be called the +Col des Portons, after the neighbouring peaks. Thence we proceeded across +the great Otemma glacier towards the Col d'Olen. + +The part of the glacier that we traversed was overspread with snow which +completely concealed its numerous pitfalls. We marched across it in single +file, and, of course, roped together. All at once Almer dropped into a +crevasse up to his shoulders. I pulled in the rope immediately, but the +snow gave way as it was being done, and I had to spread out my arms to +stop my descent. Biener held fast, and said afterwards, that his feet went +through as well; so, for a moment, all three were in the jaws of the +crevasse. We now altered our course, so as to take the fissures +transversely, and changed it again after the centre of the glacier was +passed, and made directly for the summit of the Col d'Olen. + +It is scarcely necessary to observe, after what I have said before, that +it is my invariable practice to employ a rope when traversing a +snow-covered glacier. Many guides, even the best ones, object to be roped, +more especially early in the morning, when the snow is hard. They object +sometimes, because they think it is unnecessary. Crevasses that are +bridged by snow are almost always more or less perceptible by undulations +on the surface; the snow droops down, and hollows mark the courses of the +chasms beneath. An experienced guide usually notices these almost +imperceptible wrinkles, steps one side or the other, as the case may +require, and rarely breaks through unawares. Guides think there is no +occasion to employ a rope because they think that they will not be taken +by surprise. Michel Croz used to be of this opinion. He used to say that +only imbeciles and children required to be tied up in the morning. I told +him that in this particular matter I was a child to him. "You see these +things, my good Croz, and avoid them. I do _not_, except you point them +out to me, and so that which is not a danger to you, _is_ a danger to me." +The sharper one's eyes get by use, the less is a rope required as a +protective against these hidden pitfalls; but, according to my experience, +the sight never becomes so keen that they can be avoided with unvarying +certainty, and I mentioned what occurred upon the Otemma glacier to show +that this is so. + +I well remember my first passage of the Col Theodule--the easiest of the +higher Alpine glacier passes. We had a rope, but my guide said it was not +necessary, he knew all the crevasses. However, we did not go a quarter of +a mile before he dropped through the snow into a crevasse up to his neck. +He was a heavy man, and would scarcely have extricated himself alone; +anyhow, he was very glad of my assistance. When he got on to his legs +again, he said, "Well, I had no idea that there was a crevasse there!" He +no longer objected to use the rope, and we proceeded; upon my part, with +greater peace of mind than before. I have crossed the pass fourteen times +since then, and have invariably insisted upon being tied together. + +Guides object to the use of the rope upon snow-covered glacier, because +they are afraid of being laughed at by their comrades; and this, perhaps, +is the more common reason. To illustrate this, here is another Theodule +experience. We arrived at the edge of the ice, and I required to be tied. +My guide (a Zermatt man of repute) said that no one used a rope going +across that pass. I declined to argue the matter, and we put on the rope; +though very much against the wish of my man, who protested that he should +have to submit to perpetual ridicule if we met any of his acquaintances. +We had not gone very far before we saw a train coming in the contrary +direction. "Ah!" cried my man, "there is R---- (mentioning a guide who used +to be kept at the Riffel Hotel for the ascent of Monte Rosa); it will be +as I said, I shall never hear the end of this." The guide we met was +followed by a string of tom-fools, none of whom were tied together, and +had his face covered by a mask to prevent it becoming blistered. After we +had passed, I said, "Now, should R---- make any observations to you, ask him +why he takes such extraordinary care to preserve the skin of his face, +which will grow again in a week, when he neglects such an obvious +precaution in regard to his life, which he can only lose once." This was +quite a new idea to my guide, and he said nothing more against the use of +the rope so long as we were together. + +I believe that the unwillingness to use a rope upon snow-covered glacier +which born mountaineers not unfrequently exhibit, arises--First, on the +part of expert men, from the consciousness that they themselves incur +little risk; secondly, on the part of inferior men, from fear of ridicule, +and from aping the ways of their superiors; and, thirdly, from pure +ignorance or laziness. Whatever may be the reason, I raise up my voice +against the neglect of a precaution so simple and so effectual. In my +opinion, the very first thing a glacier traveller requires is plenty of +good rope. + +A committee of the English Alpine Club was appointed in 1864 to test, and +to report upon, the most suitable ropes for mountaineering purposes, and +those which were approved are probably as good as can be found. One is +made of Manilla and another of Italian hemp. The former is the heavier, +and weighs a little more than an ounce per foot (103 ozs. to 100 feet). +The latter weighs 79 ozs. per 100 feet; but I prefer the Manilla rope, +because it is more handy to handle. Both of these ropes will sustain 168 +lbs. falling 10 feet, or 196 lbs. falling 8 feet, and they break with a +dead weight of two tons.(204) In 1865 we carried two 100 feet lengths of +the Manilla rope, and the inconvenience arising from its weight was more +than made up for by the security which it afforded. Upon several occasions +it was worth more than an extra guide. + +Now, touching the _use_ of the rope. There is a right way, and there are +wrong ways of using it. I often meet, upon glacier-passes, elegantly +got-up persons, who are clearly out of their element, with a guide +stalking along in front, who pays no attention to the innocents in his +charge. They are tied together as a matter of form, but they evidently +have no idea _why_ they are tied up, for they walk side by side, or close +together, with the rope trailing on the snow. If one tumbles into a +crevasse, the rest stare, and say, "La! what is the matter with Smith?" +unless, as is more likely, they all tumble in together. This is the wrong +way to use a rope. It is abuse of the rope. + + [Illustration: The wrong way to use a rope on glacier] + +It is of the first importance to keep the rope taut from man to man. If +this is not done, there is no real security, and your risks may be +considerably magnified. There is little or no difficulty in extricating +one man who breaks through a bridged crevasse if the rope is taut; but the +case may be very awkward if two break through at the same moment, close +together, and there are only two others to aid, or perhaps only one other. +Further, the rope ought not upon any account to graze over snow, ice, or +rocks, otherwise the strands suffer, and the lives of the whole party may +be endangered. Apart from this, it is extremely annoying to have a rope +knocking about one's heels. If circumstances render it impossible for the +rope to be kept taut by itself, the men behind should gather it up round +their hands,(205) and not allow it to incommode those in advance. A man +must either be incompetent, careless, or selfish, if he permits the rope +to dangle about the heels of the person in front of him. + + [Illustration: THE RIGHT WAY TO USE THE ROPE.] + +The distance from man to man must neither be too great nor too small. +About 12 feet between each is sufficient. If there are only two or three +persons, it is prudent to allow a little more--say 15 feet. More than this +is unnecessary, and less than 9 or 10 feet is not much good. + +It is essential to examine your rope from time to time to see that it is +in good condition. If you are wise you will do this yourself every day. +Latterly, I have examined every inch of my rope overnight, and upon more +than one occasion have found the strands of the Manilla rope nearly half +severed through accidental grazes. + +Thus far the rope has been supposed to be employed upon level, +snow-covered glacier, to prevent any risk from concealed crevasses. On +rocks and on slopes it is used for a different purpose (namely, to guard +against slips), and in these cases it is equally important to keep it +taut, and to preserve a reasonable distance one from the other. It is much +more troublesome to keep the rope taut upon slopes than upon the level; +and upon difficult rocks it is all but impossible, except by adopting the +plan of moving only one at a time (see p. 115). + +There is no good reason for employing a rope upon easy rocks, and I +believe that its needless use is likely to promote carelessness. On +difficult rocks and on snow-slopes (frequently improperly called +ice-slopes) it is a great advantage to be tied together, provided the rope +is handled properly; but upon actual ice-slopes, such as that on the Col +Dolent (p. 240), or upon slopes in which ice is mingled with small and +loose rocks, such as the upper part of the Pointe des Ecrins, it is almost +useless, because a slip made by one person might upset the entire +party.(206) I am not prepared to say, however, that men should not be tied +together upon similar slopes. Being attached to others usually gives +confidence, and confidence decidedly assists stability. It is more +questionable whether men should be in such places at all. If a man can +keep on his feet upon an _escalier_ cut in an ice-slope, I see no reason +why he should be debarred from making use of that particular form of +staircase. If he cannot, let him keep clear of such places.(207) + +There would be no advantage in discoursing upon the use of the rope at +greater length. A single day upon a mountain's side will give a clearer +idea of the value of a good rope, and of the numerous purposes for which +it may be employed, than any one will obtain from reading all that has +been written upon the subject; but no one will become really expert in its +management without much experience. + + + +From the Col d'Olen we proceeded down the Combe of the same name to the +chalets of Prerayen, and passed the night of the 6th under the roof of our +old acquaintance, the wealthy herdsman. On the 7th we crossed the Va +Cornere pass, _en route_ for Breil. My thoughts were fixed on the +Matterhorn, and my guides knew that I wished them to accompany me. They +had an aversion to the mountain, and repeatedly expressed their belief +that it was useless to try to ascend it. "_Anything_ but Matterhorn, dear +sir!" said Almer; "_anything_ but Matterhorn." He did not speak of +difficulty or of danger, nor was he shirking _work_. He offered to go +_anywhere_; but he entreated that the Matterhorn should be abandoned. Both +men spoke fairly enough. They did not think that an ascent could be made; +and for their own credit, as well as for my sake, they did not wish to +undertake a business which, in their opinion, would only lead to loss of +time and money. + +I sent them by the short cut to Breil, and walked down to Val Tournanche +to look for Jean-Antoine Carrel. He was not there. The villagers said that +he, and three others, had started on the 6th to try the Matterhorn by the +old way, on their own account. They will have no luck, I thought, for the +clouds were low down on the mountains; and I walked up to Breil, fully +expecting to meet them. Nor was I disappointed. About half-way up I saw a +group of men clustered around a chalet upon the other side of the torrent, +and, crossing over, found that the party had returned. Jean-Antoine and +Caesar were there, C. E. Gorret, and J. J. Maquignaz. They had had no +success. The weather, they said, had been horrible, and they had scarcely +reached the glacier du Lion. + +I explained the situation to Carrel, and proposed that we, with Caesar and +another man, should cross the Theodule by moonlight on the 9th, and that +upon the 10th we should pitch the tent as high as possible upon the east +face. He was unwilling to abandon the old route, and urged me to try it +again. I promised to do so provided the new route failed. This satisfied +him, and he agreed to my proposal. I then went up to Breil, and discharged +Almer and Biener--with much regret, for no two men ever served me more +faithfully or more willingly.(208) On the next day they crossed to +Zermatt. + +The 8th was occupied with preparations. The weather was stormy; and black, +rainy vapours obscured the mountains. Towards evening a young man came +from Val Tournanche, and reported that an Englishman was lying there, +extremely ill. Now was the time for the performance of my vow;(209) and on +the morning of Sunday the 9th I went down the valley to look after the +sick man. On my way I passed a foreign gentleman, with a mule and several +porters laden with baggage. Amongst these men were Jean-Antoine and Caesar, +carrying some barometers. "Hullo!" I said, "what are you doing?" They +explained that the foreigner had arrived just as they were setting out, +and that they were assisting his porters. "Very well; go on to Breil, and +await me there; we start at midnight as agreed." Jean-Antoine then said +that he should not be able to serve me after Tuesday the 11th, as he was +engaged to travel "with a family of distinction" in the valley of Aosta. +"And Caesar?" "And Caesar also." "Why did you not say this before?" +"Because," said he, "it was not settled. The engagement is of long +standing, but _the day_ was not fixed. When I got back to Val Tournanche +on Friday night, after leaving you, I found a letter naming the day." I +could not object to the answer; but the prospect of being left guideless +was provoking. They went up, and I down, the valley. + +The sick man declared that he was better, though the exertion of saying as +much tumbled him over on to the floor in a fainting fit. He was badly in +want of medicine, and I tramped down to Chatillon to get it. It was late +before I returned to Val Tournanche, for the weather was tempestuous, and +rain fell in torrents. A figure passed me under the church porch. "_Qui +vive?_" "Jean-Antoine." "I thought you were at Breil." "No, sir: when the +storms came on I knew we should not start to-night, and so came down to +sleep here." "Ha, Carrel!" I said; "this is a great bore. If to-morrow is +not fine we shall not be able to do anything together. I have sent away my +guides, relying on you; and now you are going to leave me to travel with a +party of ladies. That work is not fit for _you_ (he smiled, I supposed at +the implied compliment); can't you send some one else instead?" "No, +monsieur. I am sorry, but my word is pledged. I should like to accompany +you, but I can't break my engagement." By this time we had arrived at the +inn door. "Well, it is no fault of yours. Come presently with Caesar, and +have some wine." They came, and we sat up till midnight, recounting our +old adventures, in the inn of Val Tournanche. + +The weather continued bad upon the 10th, and I returned to Breil. The two +Carrels were again hovering about the above mentioned chalet, and I bade +them adieu. In the evening the sick man crawled up, a good deal better; +but his was the only arrival. The Monday crowd(210) did not cross the +Theodule, on account of the continued storms. The inn was lonely. I went +to bed early, and was awoke the next morning by the invalid inquiring if I +had "heard the news." "No; what news?" "Why," said he, "a large party of +guides went off this morning to try the Matterhorn, taking with them a +mule laden with provisions." + +I went to the door, and with a telescope saw the party upon the lower +slopes of the mountain. Favre, the landlord, stood by. "What is all this +about?" I inquired, "who is the leader of this party?" "Carrel." "What! +Jean-Antoine?" "Yes; Jean-Antoine." "Is Caesar there too?" "Yes, he is +there." Then I saw in a moment that I had been bamboozled and humbugged; +and learned, bit by bit, that the affair had been arranged long +beforehand. The start on the 6th had been for a preliminary +reconnaissance; the mule, that I passed, was conveying stores for the +attack; the "family of distinction" was Signor F. Giordano, who had just +despatched the party to facilitate the way to the summit, and who, when +the facilitation was completed, was to be taken to the top along with +Signor Sella!(211) + +I was greatly mortified. My plans were upset; the Italians had clearly +stolen a march upon me, and I saw that the astute Favre chuckled over my +discomfiture, because the route by the eastern face, if successful, would +not benefit his inn. What was to be done? I retired to my room, and +soothed by tobacco, re-studied my plans, to see if it was not possible to +outmanoeuvre the Italians. + +"They have taken a mule's load of provisions." "That is _one_ point in my +favour, for they will take two or three days to get through the food, and, +until that is done, no work will be accomplished." "How is the weather?" I +went to the window. The mountain was smothered up in mist. "Another point +in my favour." "They are to facilitate the way. Well, if they do that to +any purpose, it will be a long job." Altogether, I reckoned that they +could not possibly ascend the mountain and come back to Breil in less than +seven days. I got cooler, for it was evident that the wily ones might be +outwitted after all. There was time enough to go to Zermatt, to try the +eastern face, and, should it prove impracticable, to come back to Breil +before the men returned; and then, it seemed to me, as the mountain was +not padlocked, one might start at the same time as the Messieurs, and yet +get to the top before them. + +The first thing to do was to go to Zermatt. Easier said than done. The +seven guides upon the mountain included the ablest men in the valley, and +none of the ordinary muleteer-guides were at Breil. Two men, at least, +were wanted for my baggage, but not a soul could be found. I ran about, +and sent about in all directions, but not a single porter could be +obtained. One was with Carrel; another was ill; another was at Chatillon, +and so forth. Even Meynet, the hunchback, could not be induced to come; he +was in the thick of some important cheese-making operations. I was in the +position of a general without an army; it was all very well to make plans, +but there was no one to execute them. This did not much trouble me, for it +was evident that so long as the weather stopped traffic over the Theodule +pass, it would hinder the men equally upon the Matterhorn; and I knew that +directly it improved company would certainly arrive. + +About midday on Tuesday the 11th a large party hove in sight from Zermatt, +preceded by a nimble young Englishman, and one of old Peter Taugwalder's +sons.(212) I went at once to this gentleman to learn if he could dispense +with Taugwalder. He said that he could not, as they were going to recross +to Zermatt on the morrow, but that the young man should assist in +transporting my baggage, as he had nothing to carry. We naturally got into +conversation. I told my story, and learned that the young Englishman was +Lord Francis Douglas,(213) whose recent exploit--the ascent of the +Gabelhorn--had excited my wonder and admiration. He brought good news. Old +Peter had lately been beyond the Hoernli, and had reported that he thought +an ascent of the Matterhorn was possible upon that side. Almer had left +Zermatt, and could not be recovered, so I determined to seek for old +Peter. Lord Francis Douglas expressed a warm desire to ascend the +mountain, and before long it was determined that he should take part in +the expedition. + +Favre could no longer hinder our departure, and lent us one of his men. We +crossed the Col Theodule on Wednesday morning the 12th of July, rounded +the foot of the Ober Theodulgletscher, crossed the Furggengletscher, and +deposited tent, blankets, ropes, and other matters in the little chapel at +the Schwarzsee.(214) All four were heavily laden, for we brought across +the whole of my stores from Breil. Of rope alone there was about 600 feet. +There were three kinds. First, 200 feet of the Manilla rope; second, 150 +feet of a stouter, and probably stronger rope than the first; and third, +more than 200 feet of a lighter and weaker rope than the first, of a kind +that I used formerly (stout sash-line). + +We descended to Zermatt, sought and engaged old Peter, and gave him +permission to choose another guide. When we returned to the Monte Rosa +Hotel, whom should we see sitting upon the wall in front but my old _guide +chef_, Michel Croz. I supposed that he had come with Mr. B----, but I +learned that that gentleman had arrived in ill health, at Chamounix, and +had returned to England. Croz, thus left free, had been immediately +engaged by the Rev. Charles Hudson, and they had come to Zermatt with the +same object as ourselves--namely, to attempt the ascent of the Matterhorn! + +Lord Francis Douglas and I dined at the Monte Rosa, and had just finished +when Mr. Hudson and a friend entered the _salle a manger_. They had +returned from inspecting the mountain, and some idlers in the room +demanded their intentions. We heard a confirmation of Croz's statement, +and learned that Mr. Hudson intended to set out on the morrow at the same +hour as ourselves. We left the room to consult, and agreed it was +undesirable that two independent parties should be on the mountain at the +same time with the same object. Mr. Hudson was therefore invited to join +us, and he accepted our proposal. Before admitting his friend--Mr. Hadow--I +took the precaution to inquire what he had done in the Alps, and, as well +as I remember, Mr. Hudson's reply was, "Mr. Hadow has done Mont Blanc in +less time than most men." He then mentioned several other excursions that +were unknown to me, and added, in answer to a further question, "I +consider he is a sufficiently good man to go with us." Mr. Hadow was +admitted without any further question, and we then went into the matter of +guides. Hudson thought that Croz and old Peter would be sufficient. The +question was referred to the men themselves, and they made no objection. + +So Croz and I became comrades once more; and as I threw myself on my bed +and tried to go to sleep, I wondered at the strange series of chances +which had first separated us and then brought us together again. I thought +of the mistake through which he had accepted the engagement to Mr. B----; of +his unwillingness to adopt my route; of his recommendation to transfer our +energies to the chain of Mont Blanc; of the retirement of Almer and +Biener; of the desertion of Carrel; of the arrival of Lord Francis +Douglas; and, lastly, of our meeting at Zermatt; and as I pondered over +these things I could not help asking, "What next?" If any one of the links +of this fatal chain of circumstances had been omitted, what a different +story I should have to tell! + + + + + + CHAPTER XIX. + + + THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN. + + + "Had we succeeded well, + We had been reckoned 'mongst the wise: our minds + Are so disposed to judge from the event." + EURIPIDES. + + "It is a thoroughly unfair, but an ordinary custom, to praise or + blame designs (which in themselves may be good or bad) just as + they turn out well or ill. Hence the same actions are at one + time attributed to earnestness and at another to vanity." + PLINY MIN. + + +We started from Zermatt on the 13th of July, at half-past 5, on a +brilliant and perfectly cloudless morning. We were eight in number--Croz, +old Peter and his two sons,(215) Lord F. Douglas, Hadow, Hudson,(216) and +I. To ensure steady motion, one tourist and one native walked together. +The youngest Taugwalder fell to my share, and the lad marched well, proud +to be on the expedition, and happy to show his powers. The wine-bags also +fell to my lot to carry, and throughout the day, after each drink, I +replenished them secretly with water, so that at the next halt they were +found fuller than before! This was considered a good omen, and little +short of miraculous. + +On the first day we did not intend to ascend to any great height, and we +mounted, accordingly, very leisurely; picked up the things which were left +in the chapel at the Schwarzsee at 8.20, and proceeded thence along the +ridge connecting the Hoernli with the Matterhorn.(217) At half-past 11 we +arrived at the base of the actual peak; then quitted the ridge, and +clambered round some ledges, on to the eastern face. We were now fairly +upon the mountain, and were astonished to find that places which from the +Riffel, or even from the Furggengletscher, looked entirely impracticable, +were so easy that we could _run about_. + +Before twelve o'clock we had found a good position for the tent, at a +height of 11,000 feet.(218) Croz and young Peter went on to see what was +above, in order to save time on the following morning. They cut across the +heads of the snow-slopes which descended towards the Furggengletscher, and +disappeared round a corner; and shortly afterwards we saw them high up on +the face, moving quickly. We others made a solid platform for the tent in +a well-protected spot, and then watched eagerly for the return of the men. +The stones which they upset told that they were very high, and we supposed +that the way must be easy. At length, just before 3 P.M., we saw them +coming down, evidently much excited. "What are they saying, Peter?" +"Gentlemen, they say it is no good." But when they came near we heard a +different story. "Nothing but what was good; not a difficulty, not a +single difficulty! We could have gone to the summit and returned to-day +easily!" + +We passed the remaining hours of daylight--some basking in the sunshine, +some sketching or collecting; and when the sun went down, giving, as it +departed, a glorious promise for the morrow, we returned to the tent to +arrange for the night. Hudson made tea, I coffee, and we then retired each +one to his blanket-bag; the Taugwalders, Lord Francis Douglas, and myself, +occupying the tent, the others remaining, by preference, outside. Long +after dusk the cliffs above echoed with our laughter and with the songs of +the guides, for we were happy that night in camp, and feared no evil. + +We assembled together outside the tent before dawn on the morning of the +14th, and started directly it was light enough to move. Young Peter came +on with us as a guide, and his brother returned to Zermatt.(219) We +followed the route which had been taken on the previous day, and in a few +minutes turned the rib which had intercepted the view of the eastern face +from our tent platform. The whole of this great slope was now revealed, +rising for 3000 feet like a huge natural staircase.(220) Some parts were +more, and others were less, easy; but we were not once brought to a halt +by any serious impediment, for when an obstruction was met in front it +could always be turned to the right or to the left. For the greater part +of the way there was, indeed, no occasion for the rope, and sometimes +Hudson led, sometimes myself. At 6.20 we had attained a height of 12,800 +feet, and halted for half-an-hour; we then continued the ascent without a +break until 9.55, when we stopped for 50 minutes, at a height of 14,000 +feet. Twice we struck the N.E. ridge, and followed it for some little +distance,(221)--to no advantage, for it was usually more rotten and steep, +and always more difficult than the face.(222) Still, we kept near to it, +lest stones perchance might fall.(223) + +We had now arrived at the foot of that part which, from the Riffelberg or +from Zermatt, seems perpendicular or overhanging, and could no longer +continue upon the eastern side. For a little distance we ascended by snow +upon the arete(224)--that is, the ridge--descending towards Zermatt, and +then, by common consent, turned over to the right, or to the northern +side. Before doing so, we made a change in the order of ascent. Croz went +first, I followed, Hudson came third; Hadow and old Peter were last. +"Now," said Croz, as he led off, "now for something altogether different." +The work became difficult, and required caution. In some places there was +little to hold, and it was desirable that those should be in front who +were least likely to slip. The general slope of the mountain at this part +was _less_ than 40 deg., and snow had accumulated in, and had filled up, the +interstices of the rock-face, leaving only occasional fragments projecting +here and there. These were at times covered with a thin film of ice, +produced from the melting and refreezing of the snow. It was the +counterpart, on a small scale, of the upper 700 feet of the Pointe des +Ecrins,--only there was this material difference; the face of the Ecrins +was about, or exceeded, an angle of 50 deg., and the Matterhorn face was less +than 40 deg..(225) It was a place over which any fair mountaineer might pass +in safety, and Mr. Hudson ascended this part, and, as far as I know, the +entire mountain, without having the slightest assistance rendered to him +upon any occasion. Sometimes, after I had taken a hand from Croz, or +received a pull, I turned to offer the same to Hudson; but he invariably +declined, saying it was not necessary. Mr. Hadow, however, was not +accustomed to this kind of work, and required continual assistance. It is +only fair to say that the difficulty which he found at this part arose +simply and entirely from want of experience. + +This solitary difficult part was of no great extent.(226) We bore away +over it at first, nearly horizontally, for a distance of about 400 feet; +then ascended directly towards the summit for about 60 feet; and then +doubled back to the ridge which descends towards Zermatt. A long stride +round a rather awkward corner brought us to snow once more. The last doubt +vanished! The Matterhorn was ours! Nothing but 200 feet of easy snow +remained to be surmounted! + +You must now carry your thoughts back to the seven Italians who started +from Breil on the 11th of July. Four days had passed since their +departure, and we were tormented with anxiety lest they should arrive on +the top before us. All the way up we had talked of them, and many false +alarms of "men on the summit" had been raised. The higher we rose, the +more intense became the excitement. What if we should be beaten at the +last moment? The slope eased off, at length we could be detached, and Croz +and I, dashing away, ran a neck-and-neck race, which ended in a dead heat. +At 1.40 P.M. the world was at our feet, and the Matterhorn was conquered. +Hurrah! Not a footstep could be seen. + +It was not yet certain that we had not been beaten. The summit of the +Matterhorn was formed of a rudely level ridge, about 350 feet long,(227) +and the Italians might have been at its farther extremity. I hastened to +the southern end, scanning the snow right and left eagerly. Hurrah! again; +it was untrodden. "Where were the men?" I peered over the cliff, half +doubting, half expectant. I saw them immediately--mere dots on the ridge, +at an immense distance below. Up went my arms and my hat. "Croz! Croz!! +come here!" "Where are they, Monsieur?" "There, don't you see them, down +there?" "Ah! the _coquins_, they are low down." "Croz, we must make those +fellows hear us." We yelled until we were hoarse. The Italians seemed to +regard us--we could not be certain. "Croz, we _must_ make them hear us; +they _shall_ hear us!" I seized a block of rock and hurled it down, and +called upon my companion, in the name of friendship, to do the same. We +drove our sticks in, and prized away the crags, and soon a torrent of +stones poured down the cliffs. There was no mistake about it this time. +The Italians turned and fled.(228) + + [Illustration: "CROZ! CROZ!! COME HERE!"] + +Still, I would that the leader of that party could have stood with us at +that moment, for our victorious shouts conveyed to him the disappointment +of the ambition of a lifetime. He was _the_ man, of all those who +attempted the ascent of the Matterhorn, who most deserved to be the first +upon its summit. He was the first to doubt its inaccessibility, and he was +the only man who persisted in believing that its ascent would be +accomplished. It was the aim of his life to make the ascent from the side +of Italy, for the honour of his native valley. For a time he had the game +in his hands: he played it as he thought best; but he made a false move, +and he lost it. Times have changed with Carrel. His supremacy is +questioned in the Val Tournanche; new men have arisen; and he is no longer +recognised as _the_ chasseur above all others: though so long as he +remains the man that he is to-day, it will not be easy to find his +superior. + +The others had arrived, so we went back to the northern end of the ridge. +Croz now took the tent-pole,(229) and planted it in the highest snow. +"Yes," we said, "there is the flag-staff, but where is the flag?" "Here it +is," he answered, pulling off his blouse and fixing it to the stick. It +made a poor flag, and there was no wind to float it out, yet it was seen +all around. They saw it at Zermatt--at the Riffel--in the Val Tournanche. At +Breil, the watchers cried, "Victory is ours!" They raised "bravos" for +Carrel, and "vivas" for Italy, and hastened to put themselves _en fete_. +On the morrow they were undeceived. "All was changed; the explorers +returned sad--cast down--disheartened--confounded--gloomy." "It is true," said +the men. "We saw them ourselves--they hurled stones at us! The old +traditions _are_ true,--there are spirits on the top of the +Matterhorn!"(230) + + [Illustration: THE SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1865 (NORTHERN END).] + +We returned to the southern end of the ridge to build a cairn, and then +paid homage to the view.(231) The day was one of those superlatively calm +and clear ones which usually precede bad weather. The atmosphere was +perfectly still, and free from all clouds or vapours. Mountains fifty--nay +a hundred--miles off, looked sharp and near. All their details--ridge and +crag, snow and glacier--stood out with faultless definition. Pleasant +thoughts of happy days in bygone years came up unbidden, as we recognised +the old, familiar forms. All were revealed--not one of the principal peaks +of the Alps was hidden.(232) I see them clearly now--the great inner +circles of giants, backed by the ranges, chains, and _massifs_. First came +the Dent Blanche, hoary and grand; the Gabelhorn and pointed Rothhorn; and +then the peerless Weisshorn: the towering Mischabelhoerner, flanked by the +Allaleinhorn, Strahlhorn, and Rimpfischhorn; then Monte Rosa--with its many +Spitzes--the Lyskamm and the Breithorn. Behind was the Bernese Oberland +governed by the Finsteraarhorn, and then the Simplon and St. Gothard +groups; the Disgrazia and the Orteler. Towards the south we looked down to +Chivasso on the plain of Piedmont, and far beyond. The Viso--one hundred +miles away--seemed close upon us; the Maritime Alps--one hundred and thirty +miles distant--were free from haze. Then came my first love--the Pelvoux; +the Ecrins and the Meije; the clusters of the Graians; and lastly, in the +west, gorgeous in the full sunlight, rose the monarch of all--Mont Blanc. +Ten thousand feet beneath us were the green fields of Zermatt, dotted with +chalets, from which blue smoke rose lazily. Eight thousand feet below, on +the other side, were the pastures of Breil. There were black and gloomy +forests, bright and cheerful meadows; bounding waterfalls and tranquil +lakes; fertile lands and savage wastes; sunny plains and frigid +_plateaux_. There were the most rugged forms, and the most graceful +outlines--bold, perpendicular cliffs, and gentle, undulating slopes; rocky +mountains and snowy mountains, sombre and solemn, or glittering and white, +with walls--turrets--pinnacles--pyramids--domes--cones--and spires! There was +every combination that the world can give, and every contrast that the +heart could desire. + +We remained on the summit for one hour-- + + "One crowded hour of glorious life." + +It passed away too quickly, and we began to prepare for the descent. + + [Illustration: THE ACTUAL SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1865.] + + + + + + CHAPTER XX. + + + DESCENT OF THE MATTERHORN.(233) + + +Hudson and I again consulted as to the best and safest arrangement of the +party. We agreed that it would be best for Croz to go first,(234) and +Hadow second; Hudson, who was almost equal to a guide in sureness of foot, +wished to be third; Lord F. Douglas was placed next, and old Peter, the +strongest of the remainder, after him. I suggested to Hudson that we +should attach a rope to the rocks on our arrival at the difficult bit, and +hold it as we descended, as an additional protection. He approved the +idea, but it was not definitely settled that it should be done. The party +was being arranged in the above order whilst I was sketching the summit, +and they had finished, and were waiting for me to be tied in line, when +some one remembered that our names had not been left in a bottle. They +requested me to write them down, and moved off while it was being done. + +A few minutes afterwards I tied myself to young Peter, ran down after the +others, and caught them just as they were commencing the descent of the +difficult part.(235) Great care was being taken. Only one man was moving +at a time; when he was firmly planted the next advanced, and so on. They +had not, however, attached the additional rope to rocks, and nothing was +said about it. The suggestion was not made for my own sake, and I am not +sure that it even occurred to me again. For some little distance we two +followed the others, detached from them, and should have continued so had +not Lord F. Douglas asked me, about 3 P.M., to tie on to old Peter, as he +feared, he said, that Taugwalder would not be able to hold his ground if a +slip occurred. + + + +A few minutes later, a sharp-eyed lad ran into the Monte Rosa hotel, to +Seiler, saying that he had seen an avalanche fall from the summit of the +Matterhorn on to the Matterhorngletscher. The boy was reproved for telling +idle stories; he was right, nevertheless, and this was what he saw. + + + +Michel Croz had laid aside his axe, and in order to give Mr. Hadow greater +security, was absolutely taking hold of his legs, and putting his feet, +one by one, into their proper positions.(236) As far as I know, no one was +actually descending. I cannot speak with certainty, because the two +leading men were partially hidden from my sight by an intervening mass of +rock, but it is my belief, from the movements of their shoulders, that +Croz, having done as I have said, was in the act of turning round to go +down a step or two himself; at this moment Mr. Hadow slipped, fell against +him, and knocked him over. I heard one startled exclamation from Croz, +then saw him and Mr. Hadow flying downwards; in another moment Hudson was +dragged from his steps, and Lord F. Douglas immediately after him.(237) +All this was the work of a moment. Immediately we heard Croz's +exclamation, old Peter and I planted ourselves as firmly as the rocks +would permit:(238) the rope was taut between us, and the jerk came on us +both as on one man. We held; but the rope broke midway between Taugwalder +and Lord Francis Douglas. For a few seconds we saw our unfortunate +companions sliding downwards on their backs, and spreading out their +hands, endeavouring to save themselves. They passed from our sight +uninjured, disappeared one by one, and fell from precipice to precipice on +to the Matterhorngletscher below, a distance of nearly 4000 feet in +height. From the moment the rope broke it was impossible to help them. + + [Illustration: ROPE BROKEN ON THE MATTERHORN.] + +So perished our comrades! For the space of half-an-hour we remained on the +spot without moving a single step. The two men, paralysed by terror, cried +like infants, and trembled in such a manner as to threaten us with the +fate of the others. Old Peter rent the air with exclamations of +"Chamounix! Oh, what will Chamounix say?" He meant, Who would believe that +Croz could fall? The young man did nothing but scream or sob, "We are +lost! we are lost!" Fixed between the two, I could neither move up nor +down. I begged young Peter to descend, but he dared not. Unless he did, we +could not advance. Old Peter became alive to the danger, and swelled the +cry, "We are lost! we are lost!" The father's fear was natural--he trembled +for his son; the young man's fear was cowardly--he thought of self alone. +At last old Peter summoned up courage, and changed his position to a rock +to which he could fix the rope; the young man then descended, and we all +stood together. Immediately we did so, I asked for the rope which had +given way, and found, to my surprise--indeed, to my horror--that it was the +weakest of the three ropes. It was not brought, and should not have been +employed, for the purpose for which it was used. It was old rope, and, +compared with the others, was feeble. It was intended as a reserve, in +case we had to leave much rope behind, attached to rocks. I saw at once +that a serious question was involved, and made him give me the end. It had +broken in mid-air, and it did not appear to have sustained previous +injury. + +For more than two hours afterwards I thought almost every moment that the +next would be my last; for the Taugwalders, utterly unnerved, were not +only incapable of giving assistance, but were in such a state that a slip +might have been expected from them at any moment. After a time we were +able to do that which should have been done at first, and fixed rope to +firm rocks, in addition to being tied together. These ropes were cut from +time to time, and were left behind.(239) Even with their assurance the men +were sometimes afraid to proceed, and several times old Peter turned with +ashy face and faltering limbs, and said, with terrible emphasis, "_I +cannot!_" + + [Illustration: FOG-BOW SEEN FROM THE MATTERHORN ON JULY 14, 1865. + "THE TAUGWALDERS THOUGHT THAT IT HAD SOME CONNECTION WITH THE ACCIDENT"] + +About 6 P.M. we arrived at the snow upon the ridge descending towards +Zermatt, and all peril was over. We frequently looked, but in vain, for +traces of our unfortunate companions; we bent over the ridge and cried to +them, but no sound returned. Convinced at last that they were neither +within sight nor hearing, we ceased from our useless efforts; and, too +cast down for speech, silently gathered up our things, and the little +effects of those who were lost, preparatory to continuing the descent. +When, lo! a mighty arch appeared, rising above the Lyskamm, high into the +sky. Pale, colourless, and noiseless, but perfectly sharp and defined, +except where it was lost in the clouds, this unearthly apparition seemed +like a vision from another world; and, almost appalled, we watched with +amazement the gradual development of two vast crosses, one on either side. +If the Taugwalders had not been the first to perceive it, I should have +doubted my senses. They thought it had some connection with the accident, +and I, after a while, that it might bear some relation to ourselves. But +our movements had no effect upon it. The spectral forms remained +motionless. It was a fearful and wonderful sight; unique in my experience, +and impressive beyond description, coming at such a moment.(240) + +I was ready to leave, and waiting for the others. They had recovered their +appetites and the use of their tongues. They spoke in patois, which I did +not understand. At length the son said in French, "Monsieur." "Yes." "We +are poor men; we have lost our Herr; we shall not get paid; we can ill +afford this."(241) "Stop!" I said, interrupting him, "that is nonsense; I +shall pay you, of course, just as if your Herr were here." They talked +together in their patois for a short time, and then the son spoke again. +"We don't wish you to pay us. We wish you to write in the hotel-book at +Zermatt, and to your journals, that we have not been paid." "What nonsense +are you talking? I don't understand you. What do you mean?" He +proceeded--"Why, next year there will be many travellers at Zermatt, and we +shall get more _voyageurs_."(242) + + [Illustration: MONSIEUR ALEX. SEILER.] + +Who would answer such a proposition? I made them no reply in words,(243) +but they knew very well the indignation that I felt. They filled the cup +of bitterness to overflowing, and I tore down the cliff, madly and +recklessly, in a way that caused them, more than once, to inquire if I +wished to kill them. Night fell; and for an hour the descent was continued +in the darkness. At half-past 9 a resting-place was found, and upon a +wretched slab, barely large enough to hold the three, we passed six +miserable hours. At daybreak the descent was resumed, and from the Hoernli +ridge we ran down to the chalets of Buhl, and on to Zermatt. Seiler met me +at his door, and followed in silence to my room. "What is the matter?" +"The Taugwalders and I have returned." He did not need more, and burst +into tears; but lost no time in useless lamentations, and set to work to +arouse the village. Ere long a score of men had started to ascend the +Hohlicht heights, above Kalbermatt and Z'Mutt, which commanded the plateau +of the Matterhorngletscher. They returned after six hours, and reported +that they had seen the bodies lying motionless on the snow. This was on +Saturday; and they proposed that we should leave on Sunday evening, so as +to arrive upon the plateau at daybreak on Monday. Unwilling to lose the +slightest chance, the Rev. J. M'Cormick and I resolved to start on Sunday +morning. The Zermatt men, threatened with excommunication by their priests +if they failed to attend the early mass, were unable to accompany us. To +several of them, at least, this was a severe trial. Peter Perrn declared +with tears that nothing else would have prevented him from joining in the +search for his old comrades. Englishmen came to our aid. The Rev. J. +Robertson and Mr. J. Phillpotts offered themselves, and their guide Franz +Andermatten;(244) another Englishman lent us Joseph Marie and Alexandre +Lochmatter. Frederic Payot and Jean Tairraz, of Chamounix, also +volunteered. + +We started at 2 A.M. on Sunday the 16th, and followed the route that we +had taken on the previous Thursday as far as the Hoernli. From thence we +went down to the right of the ridge,(245) and mounted through the _seracs_ +of the Matterhorngletscher. By 8.30 we had got to the plateau at the top +of the glacier, and within sight of the corner in which we knew my +companions must be.(246) As we saw one weather-beaten man after another +raise the telescope, turn deadly pale, and pass it on without a word to +the next, we knew that all hope was gone. We approached. They had fallen +below as they had fallen above--Croz a little in advance, Hadow near him, +and Hudson some distance behind; but of Lord F. Douglas we could see +nothing.(247) We left them where they fell; buried in snow at the base of +the grandest cliff of the most majestic mountain of the Alps. + + [Illustration: THE MANILLA ROPE.(248)] + +All those who had fallen had been tied with the Manilla, or with the +second and equally strong rope, and, consequently, there had been only one +link--that between old Peter and Lord F. Douglas--where the weaker rope had +been used. This had a very ugly look for Taugwalder, for it was not +possible to suppose that the others would have sanctioned the employment +of a rope so greatly inferior in strength when there were more than 250 +feet of the better qualities still remaining out of use.(249) For the sake +of the old guide (who bore a good reputation), and upon all other +accounts, it was desirable that this matter should be cleared up; and +after my examination before the court of inquiry which was instituted by +the Government was over, I handed in a number of questions which were +framed so as to afford old Peter an opportunity of exculpating himself +from the grave suspicions which at once fell upon him. The questions, I +was told, were put and answered; but the answers, although promised, have +never reached me.(250) + + [Illustration: THE SECOND ROPE.] + + [Illustration: THE ENGLISH CHURCH AT ZERMATT.] + +Meanwhile, the administration sent strict injunctions to recover the +bodies, and upon the 19th of July, twenty-one men of Zermatt accomplished +that sad and dangerous task.(251) Of the body of Lord Francis Douglas +they, too, saw nothing; it is probably still arrested on the rocks +above.(252) The remains of Hudson and Hadow were interred upon the north +side of the Zermatt Church, in the presence of a reverent crowd of +sympathising friends. The body of Michel Croz lies upon the other side, +under a simpler tomb; whose inscription bears honourable testimony to his +rectitude, to his courage, and to his devotion. + + + +So the traditional inaccessibility of the Matterhorn was vanquished, and +was replaced by legends of a more real character. Others will essay to +scale its proud cliffs, but to none will it be the mountain that it was to +its early explorers. Others may tread its summit-snows, but none will ever +know the feelings of those who first gazed upon its marvellous panorama; +and none, I trust, will ever be compelled to tell of joy turned into +grief, and of laughter into mourning. It proved to be a stubborn foe; it +resisted long, and gave many a hard blow; it was defeated at last with an +ease that none could have anticipated, but, like a relentless +enemy--conquered but not crushed--it took terrible vengeance. The time may +come when the Matterhorn shall have passed away, and nothing, save a heap +of shapeless fragments, will mark the spot where the great mountain stood; +for, atom by atom, inch by inch, and yard by yard, it yields to forces +which nothing can withstand. That time is far distant; and, ages hence, +generations unborn will gaze upon its awful precipices, and wonder at its +unique form. However exalted may be their ideas, and however exaggerated +their expectations, none will come to return disappointed! + + + +With the Ascent of the Matterhorn, my mountaineering in the Alps came to a +close. The disastrous termination, though casting a permanent cloud over +otherwise happy memories, and leaving a train of life-long regrets, has +not altered my regard for the purest, healthiest and most manly of sports; +and, often, in grappling with every day difficulties, sometimes in +apparently hopeless tasks, encouragement has been found in the remembrance +of hard-won victories over stubborn Alps. + +We who go mountain-scrambling have constantly set before us the +superiority of fixed purpose or perseverance to brute force. We know that +each height, each step, must be gained by patient, laborious toil, and +that wishing cannot take the place of working; we know the benefits of +mutual aid; that many a difficulty must be encountered, and many an +obstacle must be grappled with or turned, but we know that where there's a +will there's a way: and we come back to our daily occupations better +fitted to fight the battle of life, and to overcome the impediments which +obstruct our paths, strengthened and cheered by the recollection of past +labours, and by the memories of victories gained in other fields. + +I have not made myself an apologist for mountaineering, nor do I now +intend to usurp the functions of a moralist; but my task would have been +ill performed if it had been concluded without one reference to the more +serious lessons of the mountaineer. We glory in the physical regeneration +which is the product of our exertions; we exult over the grandeur of the +scenes that are brought before our eyes, the splendours of sunrise and +sunset, and the beauties of hill, dale, lake, wood, and waterfall; but we +value more highly the development of manliness, and the evolution, under +combat with difficulties, of those noble qualities of human +nature--courage, patience, endurance, and fortitude. + +Some hold these virtues in less estimation, and assign base and +contemptible motives to those who indulge in our innocent sport. + + "Be thou chaste as ice, as pure as snow, thou shalt not escape calumny." + +Others, again, who are not detractors, find mountaineering, as a sport, to +be wholly unintelligible. It is not greatly to be wondered at--we are not +all constituted alike. Mountaineering is a pursuit essentially adapted to +the young or vigorous, and not to the old or feeble. To the latter, toil +may be no pleasure; and it is often said by such persons, "This man is +making a toil of pleasure." Let the motto on the title-page be an answer, +if an answer be required. Toil he must who goes mountaineering; but out of +the toil comes strength (not merely muscular energy--more than that), an +awakening of all the faculties; and from the strength arises pleasure. +Then, again, it is often asked, in tones which seem to imply that the +answer must, at least, be doubtful, "But does it repay you?" Well, we +cannot estimate our enjoyment as you measure your wine, or weigh your +lead,--it is real, nevertheless. If I could blot out every reminiscence, or +erase every memory, still I should say that my scrambles amongst the Alps +have repaid me, for they have given me two of the best things a man can +possess--health and friends. + +The recollections of past pleasures cannot be effaced. Even now as I write +they crowd up before me. First comes an endless series of pictures, +magnificent in form, effect, and colour. I see the great peaks, with +clouded tops, seeming to mount up for ever and ever; I hear the music of +the distant herds, the peasant's jodel, and the solemn church-bells; and I +scent the fragrant breath of the pines: and after these have passed away, +another train of thoughts succeeds--of those who have been upright, brave, +and true; of kind hearts and bold deeds; and of courtesies received at +stranger hands, trifles in themselves, but expressive of that good will +towards men which is the essence of charity. + +Still, the last, sad memory hovers round, and sometimes drifts across like +floating mist, cutting off sunshine, and chilling the remembrance of +happier times. There have been joys too great to be described in words, +and there have been griefs upon which I have not dared to dwell; and with +these in mind I say, Climb if you will, but remember that courage and +strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may +destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; look well to +each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end. + + [Illustration: The end] + + + + + + + APPENDIX. + + + + + *A.* THE DEATH OF BENNEN.(253) + + +On February 28, 1864, Mr. P. C. Gosset and Mr. B---- started from the +village of Ardon (about mid-way between Sion and Martigny), to make the +ascent of the Haut-de-Cry (9688 feet), with the guides J. J. Nance, F. +Rebot, A. Bevard, and J. J. Bennen. They arrived within a few hundred feet +of the summit before mid-day, and determined to complete the ascent by +following the crest of a ridge leading towards the east. Before this could +be done it was necessary to cross some steep snow; and, while passing +this, an avalanche was unfortunately started. Bennen and Mr. B---- perished; +the others happily escaped. The following narrative, from the pen of Mr. +Gosset, illustrates, in a very impressive manner, the danger of traversing +new-fallen snow at considerable inclinations:-- + + + "We had to go up a steep snow-field, about 800 feet high, as well + as I remember. It was about 150 feet broad at the top, and 400 or + 500 at the bottom. It was a sort of couloir on a large scale. + During the ascent we sank about one foot deep at every step. + Bennen did not seem to like the look of the snow very much. He + asked the local guides whether avalanches ever came down this + couloir, to which they answered that our position was perfectly + safe. We had mounted on the northern side of the couloir, and + having arrived at 150 feet from the top, we began crossing it on a + horizontal curve, so as to gain the E. arete. The inflexion or dip + of the couloir was slight, not above 25 feet, the inclination near + 35 deg.. We were walking in the following order:--Bevard, Nance, + Bennen, myself, B., and Rebot. Having crossed over about + three-quarters of the breadth of the couloir, the two leading men + suddenly sank considerably above their waists. Bennen tightened + the rope. The snow was too deep to think of getting out of the + hole they had made, so they advanced one or two steps, dividing + the snow with their bodies. Bennen turned round and told us he was + afraid of starting an avalanche; we asked whether it would not be + better to return and cross the couloir higher up. To this the + three Ardon men opposed themselves; they mistook the proposed + precaution for fear, and the two leading men continued their work. + After three or four steps gained in the aforesaid manner, the snow + became hard again. Bennen had not moved--he was evidently undecided + what he should do; as soon, however, as he saw hard snow again, he + advanced and crossed parallel to, but above, the furrow the Ardon + men had made. Strange to say, the snow supported him. While he was + passing I observed that the leader, Bevard, had ten or twelve feet + of rope coiled round his shoulder. I of course at once told him to + uncoil it and get on the arete, from which he was not more than + fifteen feet distant. Bennen then told me to follow. I tried his + steps, but sank up to my waist in the very first. So I went + through the furrows, holding my elbows close to my body, so as not + to touch the sides. This furrow was about twelve feet long, and as + the snow was good on the other side, we had all come to the false + conclusion that the snow was accidentally softer there than + elsewhere. Bennen advanced; he had made but a few steps when we + heard a deep, cutting sound. The snow-field split in two about + fourteen or fifteen feet above us. The cleft was at first quite + narrow, not more than an inch broad. An awful silence ensued; it + lasted but a few seconds, and then it was broken by Bennen's + voice, 'We are all lost.' His words were slow and solemn, and + those who knew him felt what they really meant when spoken by such + a man as Bennen. They were his last words. I drove my alpenstock + into the snow, and brought the weight of my body to bear on it. I + then waited. It was an awful moment of suspense. I turned my head + towards Bennen to see whether he had done the same thing. To my + astonishment I saw him turn round, face the valley, and stretch + out both arms. The snow on which we stood began to move slowly, + and I felt the utter uselessness of any alpenstock. I soon sank up + to my shoulders, and began descending backwards. From this moment + I saw nothing of what had happened to the rest of the party. With + a good deal of trouble I succeeded in turning round. The speed of + the avalanche increased rapidly, and before long I was covered up + with snow. I was suffocating when I suddenly came to the surface + again. I was on a wave of the avalanche, and saw it before me as I + was carried down. It was the most awful sight I ever saw. The head + of the avalanche was already at the spot where we had made our + last halt. The head alone was preceded by a thick cloud of + snow-dust; the rest of the avalanche was clear. Around me I heard + the horrid hissing of the snow, and far before me the thundering + of the foremost part of the avalanche. To prevent myself sinking + again, I made use of my arms much in the same way as when swimming + in a standing position. At last I noticed that I was moving + slower; then I saw the pieces of snow in front of me stop at some + yards' distance; then the snow straight before me stopped, and I + heard on a large scale the same creaking sound that is produced + when a heavy cart passes over frozen snow in winter. I felt that I + also had stopped, and instantly threw up both arms to protect my + head in case I should again be covered up. I had stopped, but the + snow behind me was still in motion; its pressure on my body was so + strong, that I thought I should be crushed to death. This + tremendous pressure lasted but a short time; I was covered up by + snow coming from behind me. My first impulse was to try and + uncover my head--but this I could not do, the avalanche had frozen + by pressure the moment it stopped, and I was frozen in. Whilst + trying vainly to move my arms, I suddenly became aware that the + hands as far as the wrist had the faculty of motion. The + conclusion was easy, they must be above the snow. I set to work as + well as I could; it was time, for I could not have held out much + longer. At last I saw a faint glimmer of light. The crust above my + head was getting thinner, but I could not reach it any more with + my hands; the idea struck me that I might pierce it with my + breath. After several efforts I succeeded in doing so, and felt + suddenly a rush of air towards my mouth. I saw the sky again + through a little round hole. A dead silence reigned around me; I + was so surprised to be still alive, and so persuaded at the first + moment that none of my fellow-sufferers had survived, that I did + not even think of shouting for them. I then made vain efforts to + extricate my arms, but found it impossible; the most I could do + was to join the ends of my fingers, but they could not reach the + snow any longer. After a few minutes I heard a man shouting; what + a relief it was to know that I was not the sole survivor! to know + that perhaps he was not frozen in and could come to my assistance! + I answered; the voice approached, but seemed uncertain where to + go, and yet it was now quite near. A sudden exclamation of + surprise! Rebot had seen my hands. He cleared my head in an + instant, and was about to try and cut me out completely, when I + saw a foot above the snow, and so near to me that I could touch it + with my arms, although they were not quite free yet. I at once + tried to move the foot; it was my poor friend's. A pang of agony + shot through me as I saw that the foot did not move. Poor B. had + lost sensation, and was perhaps already dead. Rebot did his best: + after some time he wished me to help him, so he freed my arms a + little more so that I could make use of them. I could do but + little, for Rebot had torn the axe from my shoulder as soon as he + had cleared my head (I generally carry an axe separate from my + alpenstock--the blade tied to the belt, and the handle attached to + the left shoulder). Before coming to me Rebot had helped Nance out + of the snow; he was lying nearly horizontally, and was not much + covered over. Nance found Bevard, who was upright in the snow, but + covered up to the head. After about twenty minutes the two + last-named guides came up. I was at length taken out; the snow had + to be cut with the axe down to my feet before I could be pulled + out. A few minutes after one o'clock P.M. we came to my poor + friend's face.... I wished the body to be taken out completely, + but nothing could induce the three guides to work any longer, from + the moment they saw that it was too late to save him. I + acknowledge that they were nearly as incapable of doing anything + as I was. When I was taken out of the snow the cord had to be cut. + We tried the end going towards Bennen, but could not move it; it + went nearly straight down, and showed us that there was the grave + of the bravest guide the Valais ever had, and ever will have. The + cold had done its work on us; we could stand it no longer, and + began the descent." + + + + + *B.* STRUCK BY LIGHTNING UPON THE MATTERHORN.(254) + + +[Mr. B. B. Heathcote, of Chingford, Essex, whilst attempting to ascend the +Matterhorn by the southern route, was unfortunately used as a +lightning-conductor, when he was within 500 feet of the summit of the +mountain. It may be observed that the Matterhorn (like all isolated Alpine +rock summits) is frequently struck by lightning. Signor Giordano has +pointed out elsewhere that he found numerous traces of electric discharges +upon its summit.](255) + + + "On July 30, 1869, in company with Peter Perrn,(256) Peter + Taugwalder junior, and Jos. Maquignaz, I commenced the ascent. The + atmosphere was clear, and the wind southerly. When very near to + the summit an extremely loud thunder-clap was heard, and we + thought it prudent to descend. We commenced the descent in the + following order:--Taugwalder first, myself next, then Perrn, and + Maquignaz last. On approaching the Col do Felicite(257) I received + a sharp, stinging blow on the leg, and thought, at first, that a + stone had been dislodged; but a loud thunder-clap at once told me + what it was. Perrn also said that he had been hit on the leg. In a + few moments I received a hit on the right arm, which seemed to run + along it, and resembled a shock from a galvanic battery. At the + same time all the men gave a startled shriek, and exclaimed that + they were hit by lightning. The storm continued near us for some + little time, and then gradually died away. On arriving at the + _cabane_ I found that Perrn had a long sore on his arm; next + morning his leg was much swollen and very weak. We descended to + Breil on the following day, and crossed to Zermatt. The same day + my hand began to swell, and it continued very weak for about a + week. Maquignaz's neck was much swollen on each side; the + lightning hitting him (according to his account) on the back, and + upon each side of the neck. Taugwalder's leg was also slightly + swollen. The thunder was tremendous--louder than I have ever heard + it before. There was no wind, nor rain, and everything was in a + mist." + + + + + *C.* NOTE TO CHAPTER VII. + + +It was stated in the commencement of this chapter that the Pointe des +Ecrins was the highest mountain in France. I have learned, since that +paragraph was written, that Captain Mieulet has determined that the height +of the Aiguille Verte is 13,540 feet; that mountain is consequently 78 +feet higher than the Pointe des Ecrins, and is the highest in France. + + + + + *D.* SUBSEQUENT HISTORY OF THE MATTERHORN.(258) + + +The Val Tournanche natives who started to facilitate the way up the +south-west ridge of the Matterhorn for MM. Giordano and Sella, pitched +their tent upon my third platform, at the foot of the Great Tower (12,992 +feet), and enjoyed several days of bad weather under its shelter. On the +first fine day (13th of July) they began their work, and about midday on +the 14th got on to the "shoulder," and arrived at the base of the final +peak (the point where Bennen stopped on July 28, 1862). The counsels of +the party were then divided. Two--Jean-Antoine Carrel and Joseph +Maquignaz--wished to go on; the others were not eager about it. A +discussion took place, and the result was they all commenced to descend, +and whilst upon the "cravate" (13,524) they heard our cries from the +summit.(259) Upon the 15th they went down to Breil and reported their +ill-success to M. Giordano (see p. 281). That gentleman was naturally much +disappointed, and pressed the men to set out again.(260) Said he, "Until +now I have striven for the honour of making the first ascent,--fate has +decided against me,--I am beaten. Patience! Now, if I make further +sacrifices it will be on your account, for your honour, and for your +interests. Will you start again to settle the question, or, at least, to +let there be no more uncertainty?" The majority of the men (in fact the +whole of them with the exception of Jean-Antoine) refused point-blank to +have anything more to do with the mountain. Carrel, however, stepped +forward, saying, "As for me, I have not given it up; if you (turning to +the Abbe Gorret) or the others will come, I will start again immediately." +"Not I!" said one. "No more for me," cried a second. "If you would give me +a thousand francs I would not go back," said a third. The Abbe Gorret +alone volunteered. This plucky priest was concerned in the very first +attempts upon the mountain,(261) and is an enthusiastic mountaineer. +Carrel and the Abbe would have set out by themselves had not J. B. Bich +and J.-A. Meynet (two men in the employ of Favre the innkeeper) come +forward at the last moment. M. Giordano also wished to accompany them, but +the men knew the nature of the work they had to undertake, and positively +declined to be accompanied by an amateur. + +These four men left Breil at 6.30 A.M. on July 16, at 1 P.M. arrived at +the third tent-platform, and there passed the night. At daybreak on the +17th they continued the ascent by the route which had been taken before; +passed successively the Great Tower, the "crete du coq," the "cravate," +and the "shoulder,"(262) and at 10 A.M. gained the point at the foot of +the final peak from which the explorers had turned back on the 14th.(263) +They had then about 800 feet to accomplish, and, says the Abbe, "nous +allions entrer en pays inconnu, aucun n'etant jamais alle aussi loin." + +The passage of the cleft which stopped Bennen was accomplished, and then +the party proceeded directly towards the summit, over rocks which for some +distance were not particularly difficult. The steep cliffs down which we +had hurled stones (on the 14th) then stopped their way, and Carrel led +round to the left or Z'Mutt side. The work at this part was of the very +greatest difficulty, and stones and icicles which fell rendered the +position of the party very precarious;(264) so much so that they preferred +to turn up directly towards the summit, and climb by rocks that the Abbe +termed "almost perpendicular." He added, "This part occupied the most +time, and gave us the greatest trouble." At length they arrived at a fault +in the rocks which formed a roughly horizontal gallery. They crept along +this in the direction of a ridge that descended towards the north-west, or +thereabouts, and when close to the ridge, found that they could not climb +on to it; but they perceived that, by descending a gully with +perpendicular sides, they could reach the ridge at a lower point. The bold +Abbe was the heaviest and the strongest of the four, and he was sacrificed +for the success of the expedition. He and Meynet remained behind, and +lowered the others, one by one, into the gully. Carrel and Bich clambered +up the other side, attained the ridge descending towards the north-west, +shortly afterwards gained an "easy route, they galloped,"(265) and in a +few minutes reached the southern end of the summit-ridge. + +The time of their arrival does not appear to have been noticed. It was +late in the day, I believe about 3 P.M. Carrel and his comrade only waited +long enough to plant a flag by the side of the cairn that we had built +three days previously, then descended at once, rejoined the others, and +all four hurried down as fast as possible to the tent. They were so +pressed for time that they could not eat! and it was 9 P.M. before they +arrived at their camp at the foot of the Great Tower. In descending they +followed the gallery above mentioned throughout its entire length, and so +avoided the very difficult rocks over which they had passed on the ascent. +As they were traversing the length of the "shoulder" they witnessed the +phenomenon to which I have already adverted at the foot of p. 289. + +When Carrel and Bich were near the summit they saw our traces upon the +Matterhorngletscher, and suspected that an accident had occurred; they did +not, however, hear of the Matterhorn catastrophe until their return to +Breil, at 3 P.M. upon the 18th. The details of that sad event were in the +mouths of all, and it was not unnaturally supposed, in the absence of +correct information, that the accident was a proof that the northern side +was frightfully dangerous. The safe return of the four Italians was +regarded, on the other hand, as evidence that the Breil route was the +best. Those who were interested (either personally or otherwise) in the +Val Tournanche made the most of the circumstances, and trumpeted the +praises of the southern route. Some went farther, and instituted +comparisons between the two routes to the disadvantage of the northern +one, and were pleased to term our expedition on the 13-14th of July +precipitate, and so forth. Considering the circumstances which caused us +to leave the Val Tournanche on the 12th of July, these remarks were not in +the best possible taste, but I have no feeling regarding them. There may +be some, however, who may be interested in a comparison of the two routes, +and for their sakes I will place the essential points in juxtaposition. We +(that is the Taugwalders and myself) were absent from Zermatt 53 hours. +Excluding halts and stoppages of one sort or another, the ascent and +descent occupied us 23 hours. Zermatt is 5315 feet above the level of the +sea, and the Matterhorn is 14,780; we had therefore to ascend 9465 feet. +As far as the point marked 10,820 feet the way was known, so we had to +find the way over only 3960 feet. The members of our party (I now include +all) were very unequal in ability, and none of us could for a moment be +compared as cragsmen with Jean-Antoine Carrel. The four Italians who +started from Breil on the 16th of July were absent during 561/2 hours, and +as far as I can gather from the published account, and from conversation +with the men, excluding halts, they took for the ascent and descent 233/4 +hours. The hotel at Breil is 6890 feet above the sea, so they had to +ascend 7890 feet. As far as the end of the "shoulder" the way was known to +Carrel, and he had to find the way over only about 800 feet. All four men +were born mountaineers, good climbers, and they were led by the most +expert cragsman I have seen. The weather in each instance was fine. It is +seen, therefore, that these four nearly equally matched men took a +_longer_ time to ascend 1500 feet _less_ height than ourselves, although +we had to find the way over more than four times as much untrodden ground +as they. This alone would lead any mountaineer to suppose that their route +must have been more difficult than ours.(266) I know the greater part of +the ground over which they passed, and from my knowledge, and from the +account of Mr. Grove, I am sure that their route was not only more +difficult, but that it was _much_ more difficult than ours. + +This was not the opinion in the Val Tournanche at the end of 1865, and the +natives confidently reckoned that tourists would flock to their side in +preference to the other. It was, I believe, the late Canon Carrel of Aosta +(who always took great interest in such matters) who first proposed the +construction of a _cabane_ upon the southern side of the Matterhorn. The +project was taken up with spirit, and funds for its execution were +speedily provided--principally by the members of the Italian Alpine Club, +or by their friends. The indefatigable Carrel found a natural hole upon +the ledge called the "cravate" (13,524), and this, in course of time, was +turned, under his direction, into a respectable little hut. Its position +is superb, and gives a view of the most magnificent character. + +Whilst this work was being carried out, my friend Mr. F. Craufurd Grove +consulted me respecting the ascent of the Matterhorn. I recommended him to +ascend by the northern route, and to place himself in the hands of +Jean-Antoine Carrel. Mr. Grove found, however, that Carrel distinctly +preferred the southern side, and they ascended accordingly by the Breil +route. Mr. Grove has been good enough to supply the following account of +his expedition. He carries on my description of the southern route from +the highest point I attained on that side (a little below the "cravate") +to the summit, and thus renders complete my descriptions of the two sides. + + + "In August 1867 I ascended the Matterhorn from Breil, taking as + guides three mountaineers of the Val Tournanche--J. A. Carrel, J. + Bich, and S. Meynet,--Carrel being the leader. At that time the + Matterhorn had not been scaled since the famous expedition of the + Italian guides mentioned above. + + + "Our route was identical with that which they followed in their + descent when, as will be seen, they struck out on one part of the + mountain a different line from that which they had taken in + ascending. After gaining the Col du Lion, we climbed the + south-western or Breil _arete_ by the route which has been + described in these pages, passing the night at the then unfinished + hut constructed by the Italian Alpine Club on the 'cravate.' + Starting from the hut at daylight, we reached at an early hour the + summit of the 'shoulder,' and then traversed its _arete_ to the + final peak of the Matterhorn. The passage of this _arete_ was + perhaps the most enjoyable part of the whole expedition. The + ridge, worn by slow irregular decay into monstrous and rugged + battlements, and guarded on each side by tremendous precipices, is + grand beyond all description, but does not, strange to say, + present any remarkable difficulty to the climber, save that it is + exceedingly trying to the head. Great care is of course necessary, + but the scramble is by no means of so arduous a nature as entirely + to absorb the attention; so that a fine climb, and rock scenery, + of grandeur perhaps unparalleled in the Alps, can both be + appreciated. + + + "It was near the end of this _arete_, close to the place where it + abuts against the final peak, that Professor Tyndall's party + turned in 1862,(267) arrested by a cleft in the ridge. From the + point where they stopped the main tower of the Matterhorn rises in + front of the climber, abrupt, magnificent, and apparently + inaccessible. The summit is fully 750 feet in vertical height + above this spot, and certainly, to my eye, appeared to be + separated from me by a yet more considerable interval; for I + remember, when at the end of the _arete_, looking upward at the + crest of the mountain, and thinking that it must be a good 1000 + feet above me. + + + "When the Italian guides made their splendid ascent, they + traversed the _arete_ of the shoulder to the main peak, passed the + cleft which has been mentioned (p. 90), clambered on to the + tremendous north-western face of the mountain (described by Mr. + Whymper at pp. 277 and 282), and then endeavoured to cross this + face so as to get on to the Z'Mutt _arete_.(268) The passage of + this slope proved a work of great difficulty and danger. I saw it + from very near the place which they traversed, and was unable to + conceive how any human creatures managed to crawl over rocks so + steep and so treacherous. After they had got about half-way + across, they found the difficulties of the route and the danger + from falling stones so great, that they struck straight up the + mountain, in the hope of finding some safer way. They were to a + certain extent successful, for they came presently to a small + ledge, caused by a sort of fault in the rock, running horizontally + across the north-western face of the mountain a little distance + below the summit. Traversing this ledge, the Italians found + themselves close to the Z'Mutt _arete_, but still separated from + it by a barrier, to outflank which it was necessary to descend a + perpendicular gully. Carrel and Bich were lowered down this, the + other two men remaining at the top to haul up their companions on + their return, as otherwise they could not have got up again. + Passing on to the Z'Mutt _arete_ without further difficulty, + Carrel and Bich climbed by that ridge to the summit of the + mountain. In returning, the Italians kept to the ledge for the + whole distance across the north-western face, and descended to the + place where the _arete_ of the shoulder abuts against the main + peak by a sort of rough ridge of rocks between the north-western + and southern faces. When I ascended in 1867, we followed this + route in the ascent and in the descent. I thought the ledge + difficult, in some places decidedly dangerous, and should not care + to set foot on it again; but assuredly it neither is so difficult + nor so continuously dangerous as those gaunt and pitiless + rock-slopes which the Italians crossed in their upward route. + + + [Illustration: THE HUT (CABANE) ON THE ZERMATT SIDE OF THE MATTERHORN. + FROM A PHOTOGRAPH BY THE AUTHOR.] + + + "The credit of making the _Italian_ ascent of the Matterhorn + belongs undoubtedly to J.-A. Carrel and to the other mountaineers + who accompanied him. Bennen led his party bravely and skilfully to + a point some 750 feet below the top. From this point, however, + good guide though he was, Bennen had to retire defeated; and it + was reserved for the better mountain-craft of the Valtournanche + guide to win the difficult way to the summit of the Matterhorn." + + +Mr. Craufurd Grove was the first traveller who ascended the Matterhorn +after the accident, and the natives of Val Tournanche were, of course, +greatly delighted that his ascent was made upon their side. Some of them, +however, were by no means well pleased that J.-A. Carrel was so much +regarded. They feared, perhaps, that he would acquire the monopoly of the +mountain. Just a month after Mr. Grove's ascent, six Valtournanchians set +out to see whether they could not learn the route, and so come in for a +share of the good things which were expected to arrive. They were three +Maquignaz's, Caesar Carrel (my old guide), J.-B. Carrel, and a daughter of +the last named! They left Breil at 5 A.M. on Sept. 12, and at 3 P.M. +arrived at the hut, where they passed the night. At 7 A.M. the next day +they started again (leaving J.-B. Carrel behind), and proceeded along the +"shoulder" to the final peak; passed the cleft which had stopped Bennen, +and clambered up the comparatively easy rocks on the other side until they +arrived at the base of the last precipice, down which we had hurled stones +on July 14, 1865. They (young woman and all) were then about 350 feet from +the summit! Then, instead of turning to the left, as Carrel and Mr. Grove +had done, Joseph and J.-Pierre Maquignaz paid attention to the cliff in +front of them, and managed to find a means of passing up, by clefts, +ledges, and gullies, to the summit. This was a shorter (and it appears to +be an easier) route than that taken by Carrel and Grove, and it has been +followed by all those who have since then ascended the mountain from the +side of Breil.(269) Subsequently, a rope was fixed over the most difficult +portions of the final climb. + +In the meantime they had not been idle upon the other side. A hut was +constructed upon the eastern face, at a height of 12,526 feet above the +sea, near to the crest of the ridge which descends towards Zermatt +(north-east ridge). This was done at the expense of Monsieur Seiler and of +the Swiss Alpine Club. Mons. Seiler placed the execution of the work under +the direction of the Knubels, of the village of St. Nicholas, in the +Zermatt valley; and Peter Knubel, along with Joseph Marie Lochmatter of +the same village, had the honour of making the second ascent of the +mountain upon the northern side with Mr. Elliott. This took place on July +24-25, 1868. Since then very numerous ascents have been made both on the +Swiss and upon the Italian side. The list of ascents will, however, show +that far more have been made by the Zermatt or northern route than by the +Breil or southern route. + + [Illustration: THE CHAPEL AT THE SCHWARZSEE.] + +Mr. Elliott supposed that he avoided the place where the accident +occurred, and that he improved the northern route. This, however, is not +the case. Both he and the others who have succeeded him have followed in +all essential points the route which we took upon July 13-15, 1865, with +the exception of the deviations which I will point out. Upon leaving +Zermatt, the traveller commences by crossing a bridge which is commonly +termed the Matterhorn bridge, and proceeds to the chapel at the +Schwarzsee. Thence he mounts the Hoernli, and follows its ridge along its +entire length right up to the foot of the Matterhorn. There is now a good +path along the whole of this ridge, but when we traversed it for the First +Ascent there was not even so much as a faintly marked track. The first +steps which are taken upon the mountain itself follow the exact line over +which I myself led upon the first ascent, and the track presently passes +over the precise spot upon which our tent was placed in 1865. In 1874, and +again in 1876, I saw the initials which I marked on the rock by the side +of our tent. The route now taken passes this rock, and then goes round the +corner of the buttress to which I referred upon p. 276. At this point the +route now followed deviates somewhat from the line of our ascent, and goes +more directly up to the part of the north-east ridge upon which the +_Cabane_ is placed. We bore more away on to the face of the mountain, and +proceeded more directly towards the summit. At the upper part of the +ascent of the north-east ridge the route now taken is exactly that of the +first ascent until the foot of the final peak is reached; and there, +instead of bearing away to the right, as we did, the tourist now clambers +up directly towards the summit by means of the fixed ropes and chains. The +final portion of the ascent, over the snow at the summit, again follows +our route. + + [Illustration: THE SUMMIT OF THE MATTERHORN IN 1874 (NORTHERN END).] + +So far as the _Cabane_ there is now a strongly marked track, almost a +path, over the mountain; and little piles of stones, placed in prominent +situations, point out the way even to the dullest person. What the +_Cabane_ itself is like will be seen by reference to the illustration +which faces p. 309. It is placed in a very insecure position, and will +probably one of these days disappear by disintegration. It is not easy at +this part of the mountain to find a good situation for a hut, though there +is plenty of choice both higher up and lower down. + +Amongst the ascents that have been made which are most worthy of note, +that made by Signor Giordano may be mentioned first. This gentleman came +to Breil several times after his famous visit in 1865, with the intention +of making the ascent, but he was always baffled by the weather. In July +1866 he got as high as the "cravate" (with J. A. Carrel and other men) and +_was detained there five days and nights, unable to move either up or +down_. At last, upon Sept. 3-5, 1868, he was able to gratify his desires, +and accomplished the feat of ascending the mountain on one side and +descending it upon the other. Signor Giordano is, I believe, the only +geologist who has ascended the mountain. He spent a considerable time in +the examination of its structure, and became benighted on its eastern face +in consequence. I am indebted to him for the valuable note and the +accompanying section which follow the Table of Ascents. Signor Giordano +carried a mercurial barometer throughout the entire distance, and read it +frequently. His observations have enabled me to determine with confidence +and accuracy the heights which were attained upon the different attempts +to ascend the mountain, and the various points upon it which have been so +frequently mentioned throughout this volume. + +Questions having been frequently put to me respecting the immediate summit +of the Matterhorn, and difficulties having been expressed as to the +recognition of the two views given upon pp. 279 and 281, I made an ascent +of the mountain in 1874 to photograph the summit, in order that I might +see what changes had occurred since our visit of ten years before. The +summits of all high mountains vary from time to time, and I was not +surprised to find that the Matterhorn was no exception to the general +rule. It was altogether sharper and narrower in 1874 than 1865. Instead of +being able "to run about," every step had to be painfully cut with the +axe; and the immediate summit, instead of being a blunt and rounded +eminence, was a little piled-up cone of snow which went to a very sharp +point. Our photographic operations were conducted with difficulty, for a +furious north wind was blowing which would have whisked away the camera +immediately if it had been set up in the most convenient position for +taking a view; and we were compelled to cut a great gash in the snow and +to work down upon the edge of the cliff overlooking Breil before we could +escape from the gusts which were whirling away the snow in writhing +eddies. My guides J. A. Carrel, Bic, and Lochmatter formed a strong party, +and eventually we gained a position, protected from the wind, whence there +was a good view of the summit; but our ledge was so small that we could +not venture to unrope, and Carrel had to squat down whilst I photographed +over his head. The engraving upon p. 311 has been made from the photograph +so taken. It will interest some of my readers to know that the nearest +peak, seen below, is the summit of the Dent d'Herens. + +The light was not favourable for photographing the _Cabane_ when we +returned from the summit, and I stopped alone with Carrel in it for a +second night in order to get the morning light on the next day. Whilst +quietly reposing inside, I was startled to hear a rustling and crackling +sound, and jumped up, expecting that the building was about to take itself +off to lower quarters; and presently I perceived that the hut had a tenant +to whom I certainly did not expect to be introduced. A little, plump mouse +came creeping out over the floor, being apparently of opinion that there +ought not to be any one there at that time of day. It wandered about +picking up stray fragments of food, occasionally crunching a bit of +egg-shell, totally unaware of my presence, for I made out that the little +animal was both blind and deaf. It would have been easy to capture it, but +I would not do so, and left it there to keep company with other solitary +tourists. + +The view from the _Cabane_ extends from the Bietschhorn on the north to +the Grand Tournalin in the south; and includes the Mischabel group, the +Allalleinhorn and Alphubel, Mont Rosa, etc. etc. Its situation is not high +enough to overlook those mountains, and so the prospect is very similar to +the northern and eastern half of the view from the Riffel. The uppermost +800 feet of the Matterhorn can be seen from the hut, but the rest of the +part above it is not visible, being hidden by a small ridge which projects +from the face. Whilst stopping in the _Cabane_ we had the insecurity of +its position forcibly impressed upon us by seeing a huge block break away +from the rock at its side, and go crashing down over the very route which +is commonly pursued by tourists. + +The year 1879 is a memorable one in the history of the Matterhorn, for in +it there occurred two deaths upon the mountain, and two new routes were +discovered. Sufficient information has not come to hand at the time I +write upon what is termed the "_affaire Brantschen_" to enable one to form +a correct opinion about that lamentable business, and it is enough to say +that upon August 12 a party started from Breil, composed of Dr. Luescher, +Prof. Schiess, and the guides J. M. Lochmatter, Jos. Brantschen, and +Petryson of Evolena. They gained the hut on the "cravate" in due course, +and on the following day the party crossed the mountain to Zermatt, with +the exception of Brantschen, who was left behind in the hut, some say only +slightly ill, and others at the point of death. Which of these was the +case is only known by those concerned. They sent back assistance to their +comrade in a somewhat tardy fashion, and when the relief party gained the +hut Brantschen was found dead. + +At the time that this was taking place on the southern side of the +Matterhorn, an accident occurred on the north-east face by which a life +was lost. Messrs. A. E. Craven and Dr. Moseley (of Boston), with the +guides Peter Rubi and C. Inabnit, left Zermatt at 10.30 P.M. on the night +of August 13, and ascended the mountain by the usual northern route +without stopping at the hut. They reached the summit at 9 A.M. on the +14th, and had returned to within a short distance of the hut, when Dr. +Moseley (who had found it irksome to be tied up, and had frequently wished +to go unroped) untied himself from the rest, doing so entirely upon his +own responsibility. A few minutes later, and within quite a short distance +of the hut, the party had to cross a projecting piece of rock. Rubi went +over first, and planted his axe in position to give firm footing to Dr. +Moseley, who followed. But, unhappily, he declined assistance; placed his +hand on the rock, and endeavoured to vault over it. In doing so he +slipped, lost hold of his axe, and fell with ever accelerating velocity +down almost the whole of the north-east face. He fell about 2000 feet, and +was of course killed on the spot. His body was recovered three days later, +and was interred in the English burying-ground at Zermatt. + +Many persons have talked at different times about the possibility of +finding a way up the Matterhorn from the side of the Z'Mutt glacier; but +it was not until the year 1879 that a way was found. On September 2-3, Mr. +A. F. Mummery, with the guides ? and ? , succeeded in gaining the +summit by first going up the long buttress of snow which runs out from the +mountain to the Z'Mutt glacier, and then up the rocks above. I have been +unable to procure any details respecting this expedition and my only +information about it has been derived from Mr. Baumann, who followed in +Mr. Mummery's traces three days later. Mr. Baumann says: "We followed the +long ice-slope to its extreme upper end, then the jagged arete above it +for a short distance, and then deviated a little to the right, climbing by +a secondary rocky ridge descending towards the Stockhi until within an +hour of the summit, when we struck the main Z'Mutt arete and so completed +the ascent by joining the Breil route." + +At the very time that Mr. Mummery was occupied in his expedition, Mr. W. +Penhall, with the guides F. Imseng and L. Sorbriehen, was engaged in a +similar enterprise, and also ascended the Matterhorn from the direction of +the Stockhi. He, however, at the first took a route closer to the +Tiefenmatten glacier, though he at last, like the others, eventually got +upon the main Z'Mutt arete and completed the ascent by following a portion +of the Breil route. + +Neither Mr. Mummery, nor Messrs. Baumann and Penhall, descended by the +routes which they struck out, and in each case the respective parties +descended by the northern or Zermatt route. It is therefore at present +impossible to determine the relative difficulty of the various routes up +the mountain. Still, I think that the great majority of tourists will, as +heretofore, prefer the ordinary Zermatt route, and that comparatively few +will patronize the newly-discovered ones. + +The ascent of the Matterhorn has now taken its place amongst those which +are considered fashionable, and many persons get upon it who ought not to +be upon a mountain at all. Although much has been done on both sides of it +to facilitate the routes, and although they are much easier to traverse +than they were in years gone by, it is still quite possible to get into +trouble upon them, and to come utterly to grief. Considering how large a +number of entirely incompetent persons venture upon the mountain, it is +surprising so few meet with accidents; but if the number of accidents +continues to increase at its present rate it will, ere long, not be easy +to find a place of interment in the English churchyard at Zermatt. + + + + +*E.* TABLE OF ATTEMPTS MADE TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN PREVIOUS TO THE FIRST + ASCENT. + + + +No. of Date. Names. Side upon Greatest REMARKS. +Attempt. which Height + the Attempt attained. + was + made, and + Place + arrived at. + + 1 1858-9. J.-Antoine Breil side 12,650 Several attempts + Carrel. "Chimney." were made before + J.-Jacques this height was + Carrel attained; the men + Victor Carrel. concerned cannot + Gab. Maquignaz. remember how many. + Abbe Gorret. See p. 46. + + 1860. + 2 July Alfred Zermatt 11,500? Without guides. + Parker. side P. 46-7. + Charles East face. + Parker. + Sandbach + Parker. + + 3 August V. Hawkins. Breil side 12,992 Guides--J. J. + J. Tyndall. Hawkins got 13,050? Bennen and + to foot of J.-Jacques + "Great Tower," Carrel. Pp. 47-9. + Tyndall a few + feet higher. + + 1861. + 4 July Messrs. Zermatt 11,700? No guides. + Parker side P. 49. + East face. + + 5 Aug. 29 J.-Antoine Breil side 13,230 See p. 57. + Carrel. "Crete du + J.-Jacques Coq." + Carrel. + + 6 Aug. 29-30 Edward Breil side 12,650 Camped upon the + Whymper "Chimney." mountain, with + an Oberland + guide. Pp. 51-7. + + 1862. + 7 January T. S. Zermatt 11,000? Winter attempt. + Kennedy side Pp. 58-9. + East face. + + 8 July 7-8 R. J. S. Breil side 12,000 Guides--Johann zum + Macdonald. Arete below Taugwald and + Edward "Chimney." Johann Kronig. + Whymper. Pp. 64-5. + + 9 July 9-10 R. J. S. Breil side 12,992 Guides--J.-A. + Macdonald. "Great Carrel and + Edward Tower." Pession. P. 66. + Whymper. + + " July 18-19 " " Breil side 13,400 Alone. Pp. + Somewhat 67-79. + higher than + the lowest part + of the "Cravate." + + 10 July 23-24 " " Breil side 13,150 Guides--J.-A. + "Crete du Carrel, Caesar + Coq." Carrel, and Luc + Meynet. P. 80. + + 11 July 25-26 " " Breil side 13,460 With Luc Meynet. + Nearly as Pp. 81-2. + high as the + highest part + of the "Cravate." + + 12 July 27-28 J. Tyndall Breil side 13,970 Guides--J. J. + "The Bennen and Anton + Shoulder," Walter; porters-- + to foot of J.-Antoine + final peak. Carrel, Caesar + Carrel, and + another. Pp. + 83-87, 90-92. + + 1863. + 13 Aug. 10-11 Edward Breil side 13,280 Guides--J.-A. + Whymper "Crete du Carrel, Caesar + Coq." Carrel, Luc + Meynet, and two + porters. Pp. + 114-123. + + 1865. + 14 June 21. " " South-east 11,200? Guides--Michel + face Croz, Christian + Almer, Franz + Biener; porter--Luc + Meynet. Pp. + 231-235. + + + + + *F.* ASCENTS OF THE MATTERHORN. + + +No. of Date. Names. Route taken. REMARKS. +Ascent + 1865. + 1 July 13-15 Lord Francis Douglas. Zermatt Guides--Michel + D. Hadow. (Or Northern Croz, Peter + Charles Hudson. route.) Taugwalder + Edward Whymper. _pere_, Peter + Taugwalder + _fils_. See + pp. 271-290. + + 2 July 16-18 Jean-Antoine Carrel. Breil The first two + J. Baptiste Bich. (Or Southern named only + Ame Gorret. route.) ascended to the + J.-Augustin Meynet. summit. See + pp. 282, 304-6. + + 1867. + 3 Aug. 13-15 F. Craufurd Grove Breil Guides--J. A. + Carrel, Salamon + Meynet, and + J. B. Bich. + + 4 Sept. 12-14 Jos. Maquignaz. Breil An easier route + J.-Pierre Maquignaz. was discovered + Victor Maquignaz. by this party + Caesar Carrel. than that taken + J.-B. Carrel. upon July 17, + 1865. The first + two named only + ascended to the + summit. See + p. 309. + + 5 Oct. 1-3 W. Leighton Jordan Breil Guides--the + Maquignaz's just + named, Caesar + Carrel, and F. + Ansermin. The + Maquignaz's and + Mr. Jordan alone + reached the + summit. + + 1868. + 6 July 24-25 J. M. Elliott Zermatt Guides--Jos. Marie + Lochmatter and + Peter Knubel. + + 7 July 26-28 J. Tyndall Up Breil Guides--Jos. and + side and Pierre Maquignaz, + down Zermatt and three others. + side. + + 8 Aug. 2-4 O. Hoiler. " ? Account given in + F. Thioly. hotel-book at + Breil is not + very clear. + Guides seem to + have been Jos. + and Victor + Maquignaz and + Elie Pession. + + 9 Aug. 3-4 G. E. Foster Zermatt Guides--Hans + Baumann, Peter + Bernett, and + Peter Knubel. + + 10 Aug. 8 Paul Guessfeldt Zermatt Guides--Jos. Marie + Lochmatter, + Nich. Knubel, and + Peter Knubel. + + 11 Sept. 1-2 A. G. Girdlestone. Zermatt Guides--Jos. Marie + F. Craufurd Grove. Lochmatter and + W. E. U. Kelso. the two Knubels. + + 12 Sept. 2-3 G. B. Marke Zermatt Guides--Nich. + Knubel and Pierre + Zurbriggen + (Saas). + + 13 Sept. 3-5 F. Giordano Up Breil Guides--J. A. + side and Carrel and + down Zermatt Jos. Maquignaz. + side. See p. 310. + + 14 Sept. 8-9 Paul Sauzet Breil Guides--J. A. + Carrel and Jos. + Maquignaz. + + 1869. + 15 July 20 James Eccles Breil Guides--J. A. + Carrel, Bich, + and two Payots + (Chamounix). + + 16 Aug. 26-27 R. B. Heathcote Breil Guides--The four + Maquignaz's (Val + Tournanche). + + 1870. + 17 July 20 (?) ? Zermatt No details have + come to hand. + + 1871. + 18 July 16-17 E. R. Whitwell Zermatt Guides--Ulrich + and Ch. Lauener. + + 19 July 21-22 F. Gardiner. Zermatt Guides--Peter + F. Walker. Perrn, P. Knubel, + Lucy Walker. N. Knubel, + Melchior + Anderegg, and + Heinrich + Anderegg. + + 20 ? -- Fowler Zermatt Guides--C. Knubel + and J. M. + Lochmatter. + + 21 Aug. 2-3 W. E. Utterson-Kelso Breil Guides--Victor + and Emmanuel + Maquignaz and + Joseph Gillioz. + + 22 Aug. 7-8 R. S. Lyle Breil Guides--J. J. + Maquignaz and ? + + 23 Aug. 18-19 C. E. Mathews. Breil Guides--J. A. + F. Morshead. Carrel and + Melchior + Anderegg, with + two porters. + + 24 Sept. 4-5 M. C. Brevoort. Zermatt to Breil Guides--Ch. + W. A. B. Coolidge. Almer, Ulr. + Almer, and N. + Knubel. + + 25 Sept. 7-8 R. Fowler Zermatt Guides--J. M. + Lochmatter + and P. Knubel. + + 1872. + 26 July 22-23 F. Gardiner. Zermatt to Breil Guides--J. + T. Middlemore. Maquignaz, + Peter Knubel, + and Johann Jaun. + + 27 July 21 H. Bicknell ? Guides--Not known. + + 28 July 24-25 R. Pendlebury. Zermatt to Breil Guides--Peter + W. M. Pendlebury. Taugwalder + C. Taylor. _fils_, Gabriel + Spechtenhauser, + and F. Imseng. + + 29 July 26 J. Jackson Breil to Zermatt Guides--Jos. + Maquignaz and + Anton Ritz. + + 30 July ? F. A. Wallroth ? Guides--Not known. + + 31 Aug. 29-30 A. Rothschild Zermatt Guides--Franz + Biener and two + Knubels. + + 32 Sept. 1-2 G. A. Passingham Zermatt Guides--F. Imseng + and Franz + Andermatten. + + 33 Sept. 9-10 H. Denning. Zermatt Guides--Melchior + E. Hutchins. Schlapp, Peter + J. Young. Rubi, and two + Knubels. + + 34 Sept. 10-11 L. Saunderson Zermatt Guides--Peter + Bohren and + Peter Knubel. + + 35 Sept. 11-12 E. Millidge Zermatt Guide-- -- + Pollinger. + + 36 Sept. 11-12 D. J. Abercromby Zermatt Guides--N. Knubel + and P. J. + Knubel. + + 37 Sept. 16-17 C. Bronzet Zermatt Guides--P. Knubel, + F. Truffer, and + J. Truffer. + + 1873. + 38 July 6-7 T. Cox. Zermatt Guides--Peter + J. Gardiner. Knubel and J. M. + Lochmatter. + + 39 July 6-7 C. Theraulaz Zermatt Guides--J. + Gillot and + Ignace Sarbach. + + 40 July 21-22 A. F. Leach Zermatt Guides--P. + Taugwalder + _fils_ and J. + M. Kronig. + + 41 July 21-22 T. A. Bishop Zermatt Guides--P. + Knubel, P. J. + Knubel, and F. + Devouassoud. + + 42 July 23-24 H. Salmond Breil Guides--Not known. + + 43 July 23-24 A. G. Puller. Breil to Zermatt Guides--J. A. + Carrel and Jos. + Maquignaz. + + 44 July 25-26 E. Leatham Zermatt Guides--P. + Knubel and + Joseph Imboden. + + 45 July 25-27 W. W. Simpson Breil to Zermatt Guides--J. A. + Carrel, P. + Maquignaz, and a + Chamounix guide. + + 46 July 29-30 M. Dechy Zermatt Guides--J. A. + Carrel and P. + Taugwalder + _fils_. + + 47 Aug. 3 J. Bischoff. Zermatt Guides-- + E. Burckhardt. + + 48 Aug. 6-7 Emile Veyrin Zermatt Guides--P. J. + Knubel; porter, + Joh. Knubel. + + 49 Aug. 9-10 L. Ewbank Zermatt Guides--J. M. and + Alex. Lochmatter. + + 50 Aug. 11 G. E. Hulton. Zermatt Guides--Ch. + F. C. Hulton. Lauener, Johann + Fischer, and + Peter Rubi. + + 51 Aug. 11-12 Marquis Maglioni Zermatt Guides--P. Knubel, + Edouard Capelin; + porter H. Knubel. + + 52 Aug. 14-15 F. Dawkins Zermatt Guides--Franz + Andermatten, A. + Burgener; porter, + Abraham Imseng. + + 53 Aug. 15-16 J. F. Bramston. Zermatt Guides--Melchior + F. Morshead. Anderegg, B. + C. H. Hawkins. Nageli, and J. + M. Lochmatter. + + 54 Aug. 16 H. S. Hoare Zermatt Guides--Johann + von Bergen and + A. Pollinger. + + 55 Aug. 18-22 E. Pigeon. Breil to Zermatt Guides--J. A. + -- Pigeon. Carrel, V. + Maquignaz, and J. + Martin. This + party was + confined in the + hut on the + Italian side from + the 18th to the + 21st of August, + by bad weather; + and in descending + upon the Zermatt + side it was + surprised by + night before the + _cabane_ could be + reached, and had + to pass the + night on the open + mountain-side. + + 56 Aug. 22-23 F. P. Barlow Zermatt Guides--Jakob + Anderegg and P. + Taugwalder + _fils_. + + 57 Oct 2-3 W. W. Stuart Breil to Zermatt Guides--Jos. + Maquignaz, F. + Bic, and Jos. + Balmat. + + 1874. + 58 July 14-15 T. G. Bonney Zermatt Guides--J. M. + Lochmatter and + J. Petrus. + + 59 July 17-18 F. Wolf Zermatt Guides--A. + Pollinger and + Jos. Lauber. + + 60 July 18-19 A. Millot and wife Zermatt Guides--Melchior + Anderegg, A. + Maurer, and P. + Taugwalder + _fils_. + + 61 July ? H. Lamb ? Guides--Not known. + + 62 July 19-20 J. Baumann Zermatt Guide-Ulrich + Lauener. + + 63 July 23-24 ? E. Javelle Breil to Zermatt Guides-- + + 64 July 27-29 L. K. Rankine Zermatt Guides--A. + Pollinger and + Jos. Laengen. + + 65 Aug. 7 J. Birkbeck, Jun. Breil to Breil Guides--J. Petrus + and J. B. Bic. + Mr. Birkbeck and + his guides + started from + Breil, crossed + the mountain to + the northern + side, and + returned to + Breil, in 19 + hours. + + 66 Aug. 7-8 G. F. Cobb. Zermatt Guides--P. + S. Forster. Taugwalder + A. M. Tod. _fils_, Jos. + Taugwalder, and + A. Summermatter. + + 67 Aug. 7-8 M. Bramston Zermatt Guide--B. Nageli. + + 68 Aug. 12 G. Devin Zermatt Guides--L. + Pollinger and + Henri Seraphin. + + 69 Aug. 19-20 L. N. Walford Zermatt Guides--Alex. + Burgener and B. + Venetz. + + 70 Aug. 20-21 A. D. Puckle Zermatt Guides--J. Petrus + and N. Knubel. + + 71 Aug. 20-21 R. Lindt Zermatt Guides--Ig. + Sarbach and + Peter Sulzer. + + 72 Aug. 20-22 Edward Whymper Zermatt Guides--J. A. + Carrel, J. B. + Bic, and J. M. + Lochmatter. An + ascent made for + the sake of + photography. + Passed two + nights in the + Zermatt + _cabane_. + + 73 Aug. 22-23 W. E. Davidson Zermatt Guides--Laurent + Lanier and Ig. + Sarbach. + + 74 Aug. 23 Prof. G. B---- ? Guides--P. + Prof. K---- Maquignaz, E. + Pession, and + Chas. Gorret. + Account is + illegible. + + 75 Aug. 25 F. W. Headley. Zermatt Guides--A. + E. P. Arnold. Pollinger and + J. J. Truffer. + + 76 Aug. 25 H. J. Smith Zermatt Guides--Alex. + Lochmatter and + Jos. Laengen. + + 77 Aug. 25 M. J. Boswell Zermatt Guides--Jos. + Imboden and + Jos. Sarbach. + + 78 Aug. 26 W. J. Lewis Zermatt Guides--Moritz + Julen and Jos. + Taugwalder. + + 79 Aug. 27 W. Stirling Zermatt Guides--Johann + Petrus and + Franz Burgener. + + 80 Aug. 28 J. H. Pratt. Zermatt Guides--J. A. + -- Prothero. Carrel and P. + Knubel. Ascent + made in one day. + + 81 Aug. 31 H. N. Malan Zermatt Guides--Jean + Martin and A. + Lochmatter. + + 82 Sept. 1-2 W. A. Lewis Zermatt Guides--J. M. + Lochmatter and + P. Imboden. + + 83 Sept. 2 E. Dent. Zermatt Guide--A. + C. T. Dent. Burgener. + + 84 Sept. 2 J. W. Borel Zermatt Guides--A. + Pollinger and + J. J. Truffer. + + 85 Sept. 3 Ernst Calbenla Zermatt Guides--P. Bohren + and P. Mueller. + + 86 Sept. 8 A. H. Simpson. Zermatt Guides--P. Knubel, + M. Cullinan. P. J. Knubel, and + P. Truffer. + + 87 Sept. 8 A. H. Burton Zermatt Guides--P. + Baumann, P. + Taugwalder, and + B. Nageli. + + 88 Sept. 9 E. Pigeon. Zermatt Guides--N. and + -- Pigeon. J. Knubel, and + F. Sarbach. + + 89 Sept. 16-17 W. Naegeli Zermatt Guides--J. and + P. Knubel. + + 1875. + 90 May 10 -- Corona ? Guides--J. A. + Carrel and J. + J. Maquignaz. + Account is + perfectly + illegible. + + 91 Aug. 2-3 L. Brioschi Zermatt Guides--F. and + A. Imseng and + P. J. + Andermatten. + + 92 Aug. 10 J. W. Hartley Zermatt Guides--P. Rubi + and J. Moser. + + 93 Aug. 10-11 F. T. Wethered Zermatt Guides--Ch. Almer + and A. Pollinger. + + 94 Aug. 11 A. Fairbanks. Zermatt Guide--J. Perrn, + W. Fairbanks. and a porter. + + 95 Aug. 12 D. L. Pickman Zermatt Guides--J. + Taugwalder and + F. Biener. + Ascent made in + one day. + + 96 Aug. 16 D. Merritt Zermatt Guides--No + information. + + 97 Aug. 16 E. Hornby Zermatt Guides--A. and + F. Pollinger. + + 98 Aug. 16 J. J. Morgan. Zermatt Guides--J. + C. L. Morgan. Imboden and J. + Sarbach. + + 99 Aug. 16 A. W. Payne Zermatt Guide--J. + Taugwalder. + + 100 Aug. 17 J. H. Pratt. Breil to Zermatt Guides--J. A. + W. Leaf. Carrel and N. + Knubel. + + 101 Aug. 19-20 F. Tendron. Zermatt Guides--F. and + G. F. Vernon. P. Sarbach and + J. Taugwalder. + + 102 Aug. 23-24 H. R. Whitehouse Zermatt Guides--P. J. + Knubel and P. + T. Truffer. + + 103 Aug. 26-27 F. Morshead. Zermatt Guides--M. + A. O. Prickard. Anderegg, Ch. + H. S. Wilson. Lauener, and J. + Moser. + + 104 Sept. 7 H. G. Gotch Zermatt Guides--Ig. and + Jos. Sarbach. + + 105 Sept. 8 R. King Zermatt Guides--J. A. + Carrel and Jos. + Coulter, and + (porter) A. + Payot. + + 106 Sept. 8 H. Loschge Breil to Zermatt Guides--J. Petrus + and A. Ranier. + + 107 Sept. 9 P. Methuen Zermatt Guides--Johann + Jaun and A. + Maurer. + + 108 Sept. 14 -- Butter Zermatt Guides--Jos. + Imboden and J. + Brantschen. + + 109 Sept. 15 W. Kittan Zermatt Guides--J. Petrus + and Franz + Burgener. + + 1876. + 110 July 22-23 A. H. Cawood. Zermatt Without guides, + J. B. Colgrove. and with two + A. Cust. porters. + + 111 July 29 J. Hazel. Zermatt Guides--P. + W. F. Loverell. Maquignaz and + F. Zuber. + + 112 July 30 Eug. Dacque Zermatt Guides--Borren + (Bohren?) and + Platter (?). + + 113 Aug. 3-4 F. Corbett. Zermatt Guides--F. + M. Courtenay. Burgener, P. + Taugwalder + _fils_, and J. + Taugwalder. + + 114 Aug. 3-4 P. A. Singer. Zermatt Guides--J. + P. A. Singer. Imboden, Jos. + Perrn, P. + Perrn, and F. + Perrn (porter). + + 115 Aug. 6-7 D. E. Cardinal Zermatt Guides--Pierre + Carrel and + Louis Carrel. + + 116 Aug. 7 F. Reiners. Zermatt Guides--P. and + M. Haushofer. J. Knubel. + + 117 Aug. 8-9 H. de Saussure Zermatt Guides--A. + Burgener and J. + Knubel. + + 118 Aug. 8-9 W. Cooke Zermatt Guides--Louis + Carrel and + Pierre Carrel. + + 119 Aug. 8-9 J. J. Bischoff Zermatt Guides--J. Petrus, + P. T. Truffer, + and another. + + 120 Aug. 9 Joseph Seiler Zermatt Guides-- -- + Lauber and ? An + one day ascent. + + 121 Aug. 9-10 W. J. Whelpdale. Zermatt Guides--J. M. + C. Weightmann. Lochmatter, A. + Ritz, and Jos. + Brantschen as + porter. + + 122 Aug. 10 P. Watson Zermatt Guides--Alex. + Burgener and B. + Venetz. + + 123 Aug. 12 S. Waller. Zermatt Guides--J. M. + G. Fitzgerald. Lochmatter and + J. Lauber. + + 124 Aug. 12 H. Meyer. Zermatt Guides--Jos. + C. Estertag. Brantschen, P. + J. Knubel, and + Jos. Taugwalder. + + 125 Aug. 12 J. Jackson. Zermatt Guides--Christian + T. H. Kitson. and Ulrich + Almer. Ascent + in one day. + + 126 Aug. 12 Jos. Nantermod Zermatt Guides--A. + Pollinger and B. + Andenmatten. + + 127 Aug. 14 C. E. Mathews. Zermatt Guides--M. + F. Morshead. Anderegg and ? + Ascent made in + one day. + + 128 (?) -- Dent. Zermatt Guide--Alex. + Burgener. + + 129 Aug. 28-29 G. W. Prothero. Zermatt to Breil Guide--J. A. + Carrel. + + 1877. + 130 Aug. 4 O. Boenaud. Zermatt Guides--No + G. Mermod. information. + L. Mermod. + + 131 Aug. 13-14 Q. Sella. Zermatt to Breil Guides--J. A. + L. Biraghi. Carrel, -- Imseng, + J. B. Carrel, + Louis Carrel, + Jos. and + Vict. Maquignaz, + etc. etc. + + 132 Aug. 19 W. H. Grenfell. Breil Guides-- -- Imseng + J. H. A. Peebles. and ? + + 133 Aug. 20 W. Penhall Zermatt Guides--Jos. + Imboden and P. + Taugwalder + _fils_. + + 134 Aug. 24-25 G. Fitzgerald Zermatt Guides--J. M. + Lochmatter and + Joseph Lauber. + + 135 Aug. 29 J. A. Cooper Zermatt Guides--Alex and + Alois Burgener. + + 136 Aug. 30 J. D. Griffiths Zermatt Guides--Basile + Andenmatten and ? + + 137 Aug. 30 J. F. Yearsley Zermatt Guides--F. + Burgener, P. + Andenmatten, and + (porter) -- + Blumenthal. + + 138 Aug. 30-31 J. C. Leman Zermatt Guides-- -- + Pollinger and ? + + 139 Aug. 30-31 T. de Cambray Digny Zermatt to Breil Guides--J. A. + Carrel and Henri + Seraphin. + + 140 Sept. 4 J. Freitschke Zermatt Guide--Basile + Andenmatten. + + 141 Sept. 4-5 H. Loschge Zermatt to Breil Guides--Alex. + Burgener and a + Tyrol guide. + + 142 Sept. 6-7 J. Nerot Breil to Zermatt Guides--J. A. + Carrel, a + Chamounix guide, + and a porter. + + 1878. + 143 ? T. Jose Zermatt Guides--J. M. + Lochmatter, P. + Knubel, and + Pierre Truffer. + + 144 Sept. 7 Carl Hecke Zermatt Guide--Basile + Andenmatten. + + 145 Sept. 9 Jules Seiler Zermatt Guides--P. Knubel + and Basile + Andenmatten. + + 146 Sept. 21 Dr. Minnigerode Zermatt Guides--J. M. + Lochmatter and + J. Taugwalder. + + 147 Sept. 11-12 C. J. Thompson Zermatt Guides--J. A. + Carrel and -- + Imseng. + + 1879. + 148 Aug. 12-13 Dr. Luescher. Up Breil side Guides--J. M. + Prof. Schiess. and down Zermatt Lochmatter, Jos. + side. Brantschen, and + Petryson + (Evolena). + Brantschen was + left behind in + the hut on the + "_cravate_," and + died there. + + 149 Aug. 13 W. W. R. Powell Zermatt Guides--Peter + Taugwalder + _fils_ and A. + Imseng. + + 150 Aug. 13-14 C. E. Freeman Breil to Zermatt Guides--J. A. + Carrel + and--Sopersac + (Saas). + + 151 Aug. 13-14 A. E. Craven. Zermatt Guides--P. Rubi + W. O. Moseley. and C. Inabnit. + Dr. Moseley lost + his life in + descending the + mountain. See + Appendix *D*. + + 152 Aug. 28-29 C. E. B. Watson Zermatt to Breil Guides--P. + Anderegg and A. + Imboden. + + 153 Aug. G. H. Savage Zermatt Guides--Jos. + 30-Sept. 1 Imboden and + Franz + Andermatten. Dr. + Savage slept on + the Hoernli Aug. + 30; began the + ascent by + moonlight at a + little before 2 + A.M. on Sept. 1, + reached the + summit at 6.30 + A.M., and + returned to + Zermatt by 12.30 + P.M. + + 154 Sept. 2-3 A. F. Mummery Z'Mutt side Mr. Mummery was + the first to + ascend the + Matterhorn from + the side of the + Z'Mutt Glacier. + No details have + been received. + + 155 Sept. 2-3 W. Penhall Z'Mutt side Guides--Ferdinand + Imseng and Louis + Sorbrichen. Mr. + Penhall also + made his ascent + upon the Z'Mutt + side, but took a + route more to + the south than + that followed by + Mr. Mummery. + + 156 Sept. 4-5 B. Wainewright Zermatt to Breil Guides--Jos. + Imboden and + Peter Sarbach. + + 157 Sept. 4-5 H. Hoare Zermatt Guide--J. + Anderegg and + (porter) Jos. + Chanton. + + 158 Sept. 5-6 J. Baumann Z'Mutt side Guides--Petrus + (Stalden) and + Emile Rey. Mr. + Mummery's route + was followed. + + 159 ? J. Maurer Breil to Zermatt Guides--? No + information. + +The above table is known to be imperfect, and the Author will be obliged +if correspondents will enable him to correct and extend it. Communications +should be addressed to him _Care of the Publisher_. + + + + + *G.* COURTE NOTE SUR LA GEOLOGIE DU MATTERHORN. PAR SIGNOR F. GIORDANO, + Ingenieur en Chef des Mines d'Italie, etc. etc. + + +Le Matterhorn ou Mont Cervin est forme depuis la base jusqu'au sommet de +roches stratifiees en bancs assez reguliers, qui sont tous legerement +releves vers l'Est, savoir vers le Mont Rose. Ces roches quoiqu'evidemment +d'origine sedimentaire ont une structure fortement cristalline qui doit +etre l'effet d'une puissante action de metamorphisme tres developpee dans +cette region des Alpes. Dans la serie des roches constituantes du Mont +Cervin l'on peut faire une distinction assez marquee, savoir celles +formant la base inferieure de la montagne, et celles formant le pic +proprement dit. + +Les roches de la base qu'on voit dans le Val Tournanche, dans le vallon de +Z'Mutt, au col de Theodule et ailleurs, sont en general des schistes +talqueux, serpentineux, chloriteux, et amphiboliques, alternant fort +souvent avec des schistes calcaires a noyaux quartzeux. Ces schistes +calcaires de couleur brunatre alternent ca et la avec des dolomies, des +cargueules, et des quartzites tegulaires. Cette formation +calcareo-serpentineuse est tres etendue dans les environs. Le pic au +contraire est tout forme d'un gneiss talqueux, souvent a gros elements, +alternant parfois a quelques bancs de schistes talqueux et quartzeux, mais +sans bancs calcaires. Vers le pied ouest du pic, le gneiss est remplace +par de l'euphotide granitoide massive, qui semble y former une grosse +lentille se fondant de tous cotes dans le gneiss meme. Du reste, les +roches du Cervin montrent partout des exemples fort instructifs de +passages graduels d'une structure a l'autre, resultant du metamorphisme +plus ou moins avance. + +Le pic actuel n'est que le reste d'une puissante formation geologique +ancienne, triasique peut-etre, dont les couches puissantes de plus de 3500 +metres enveloppaient tout autour comme un immense manteau le grand massif +granitoide et feldspathique du Mont Rose. Aussi son etude detaillee, qui +par exception est rendue fort facile par la profondeur des vallons d'ou il +surgit, donne la clef de la structure geologique de beaucoup d'autres +montagnes des environs. On y voit partout le phenomene assez curieux d'une +puissante formation talqueuse tres cristalline, presque granitoide, +regulierement superposee a une formation schisteuse et calcarifere. Cette +meme constitution geologique est en partie la cause de la forme aigue et +de l'isolement du pic qui en font la merveille des voyageurs. En effet, +tandis que les roches feuilletees de la base, etant facilement corrodees +par l'action des meteores et de l'eau, ont ete facilement creusees en +vallees larges et profondes, la roche superieure qui constitue la pyramide +donne lieu par sa durete a des fendillements formant des parois escarpees +qui conservent au pic ce profil elance, et caracteristique alpin. Les +glaciers qui entourent son pied de tous les cotes, en emportant d'une +maniere continue les debris tombant de ses flancs, contribuent pour leur +part a maintenir cet isolement de la merveilleuse pyramide qui sans eux +serait peut-etre deja ensevelie sous ses propres ruines. + +REFERENCES TO THE GEOLOGICAL SECTION OF THE MATTERHORN. + + I. Gneiss talqueux quartzifere. Beaucoup de traces de foudres. + II. Banc de 3 a 4 metres de schistes serpentineux et talqueux verts. + III. Gneiss talqueux a elements plus ou moins schisteux, avec quelque lit + de quartzite. + " Gneiss et micaschistes ferrugineux a elements tres fins, beaucoup de + traces de foudre. + IV. Gneiss alternant avec des schistes talqueux et a des felsites en + zones blanches et grises. + V. Petite couche de schistes serpentineux, vert sombre. + VI. Gneiss et micaschiste avec zones quartziferes rubanees. + VII. Gneiss talqueux a elements schisteux. +_VIII. Id._ _id._ verdatre, porphyroide a elements moyens. + IX. Gneiss talqueux granitoide a gros elements et avec des cristaux de + feldspath. + X. Schistes grisatres. + XI. Micaschistes ferrugineux. + XII. Gneiss talqueux vert sombre. +XIII. Gneiss et schistes quartzeux, couleur vert clair. + XIV. Euphotide massive (feldspath et diallage) a elements cristallins + bien developpes, traversee par des veines d'eurite blanchatre. Cette + roche forme un banc ou plutot une lentille de plus de 500 metres de + puissance intercalee au gneiss talqueux.(270) + XV. Gneiss talqueux alternant avec des schistes talqueux et micaces. + XVI. Schistes compactes, couleur vert clair. +XVII. Calcaire cristallin micace (calcschiste) avec veines et rognons de + quartz. Il alterne avec des schistes verts chloriteux et + serpentineux. +XVIII. Schistes verts chloriteux, serpentineux et talqueux, avec des + masses steatiteuses. + XIX. Calcschistes (comme ci-dessus) formant un banc de plus de 100 + metres.(271) + XX. Schistes verts chloriteux. + XXI. Calcschistes (comme ci-dessus). +XXII. Il suit ci-dessous une serie fort puissante de schistes verts + serpentineux, chloriteux, talqueux et steatiteux alternant encore + avec des calcschistes. En plusieurs localites les schistes + deviennent tres amphiboliques a petits cristaux noirs. Cette + puissante formation calcareo-serpentineuse repose inferieurement sur + des micaschistes et des gneiss anciens. + + [Illustration: GEOLOGICAL SECTION OF THE MATTERHORN. (MONT CERVIN) + BY SIGNOR F. GIORDANO.] + + + + + *H.* PROFESSOR TYNDALL AND THE MATTERHORN. + + +In the second edition of Tyndall's _Hours of Exercise in the Alps_ the +Professor made some additional remarks upon his defeat in 1862, and to +these remarks I replied in No. 35 of the _Alpine Journal_. I do not feel +that the additional information afforded in these publications possesses +the least interest to the majority of my readers, and therefore I do not +reprint it; and I refer to it only for the sake of those who may be +desirous to pursue the subject. + + [Illustration: "The things which tumble about the ears of unwary + travellers"] + + + + + LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING + CROSS. + + + + + THE MATTERHORN AND ITS GLACIERS + + + [Map: The Matterhorn and its glaciers] + + + + + THE VALLEY OF ZERMATT + + + [Map: The Valley of Zermatt; and the Central Pennine Alps] + + + + + + FOOTNOTES + + + 1 In the lower diagram the tins are shown as they appear when packed + for travelling. I generally carry them at the top of a knapsack, + outside. + + 2 I extract from No. 63 of the _Alpine Journal_ the following note by + Gustav de Veh, a retired Russian officer, upon the prevention of + snow-blindness. "We were on the march home along the mountain + plains, when, dazzled by the intense sun-rays reflected by the + endless snow-fields we were marching along, my eyelids lost all + power to open; I felt my elbow touched, and, looking through my + fingers, I beheld one of our friendly highlanders preparing a kind + of black paste by mixing gunpowder with snow. The General told me to + let him do what he wanted. The Circassian applied the black stuff + under my eyes, on my cheeks, and to the sides of my nose. To my + astonishment I could then open my eyes, and felt no more difficulty + to see plainly and clearly everything. I have tried that experiment + many times since, and it never failed to relieve me, although I used + common Indian-ink and black water-colour, instead of the + above-mentioned paste." + + 3 I understand that scarcely any nails wore found in the boots of Dr. + Moseley, who lost his life recently on the Matterhorn, and this fact + sufficiently accounts for the accident. + + 4 The author of _Travels in Alaska_. + + 5 The Riffel hotel (the starting-point for the ascent of Monte Rosa), + a deservedly popular inn, leased to Monsieur Seiler, the hotel + proprietor of Zermatt, is placed at a height of 3100 feet above that + village (8400 above the sea), and commands a superb panoramic view. + The house has continually grown, and it can now accommodate a large + number of persons. In 1879, it was connected by telegraph with the + rest of Switzerland. + + 6 The highest of the Mischabelhoerner. + + 7 The temperature at the St. Bernard in the winter is frequently 40 deg. + Fahr. below freezing-point. January is their coldest month. See + Dollfus-Ausset's _Materiaux pour l'etude des Glaciers_, vols. vi. + and vii. + + 8 There was not a pass between Prerayen and Breil. See note to p. 105. + + 9 This pass is called usually the Va Cornere. It is also known as the + Gra Cornere; which is, I believe, patois for Grand Cornier. It is + mentioned in the first volume of the second series of _Peaks, + Passes, and Glaciers_, and in Chapters V. and XVIII. of this volume. + + 10 I had been sent to the Val Louise to illustrate this ascent. + + 11 Since that time a decent house has been built on the summit of this + pass. The old vaulted hospice was erected for the benefit of the + pilgrims who formerly crossed the pass _en route_ for Rome.--Joanne's + _Itineraire du Dauphine_. + + 12 See the Map in Chap. VIII. + + 13 The depth of the valleys is so great that the sun not only is not + seen for more than a few hours per day during the greatest portion + of the year, but in some places--at Villard d'Arene and at Andrieux + for example--it is not seen at all for one hundred days.--Lodoucette's + _Hautes-Alpes_, p. 599. + + 14 Sometimes called the Aiguille du Midi de la Grave, or the Aiguille + de la Medje. + + 15 The maps of the Dauphine Alps to Ball's _Guide to the Western Alps_, + and to Joanne's _Itineraire du Dauphine_, must be excepted. These + maps are, however, on too small a scale for travelling purposes. + + 16 "Faits pour servir a l'Histoire des Montagnes de l'Oisans," by Elie + de Beaumont, in the _Annales des Mines_. + + _Norway and its Glaciers; followed by Excursions in the High Alps of + Dauphine._ By J. D. Forbes. + + The following works also treat more or less of the districts + referred to in this chapter:-- + + _ Outline Sketches in the High Alps of Dauphine_, by T. G. + Bonney. + _ Histoire des Hautes-Alpes_, by J. C. F. Ladoucette. + _ Itineraire du Dauphine_, by Adolphe Joanne (2nd part). + _ Tour du Monde, 1860_, edited by Ed. Charton. + _ The Israel of the Alps_, by Alexis Muston. + _ A Memoir of Felix Neff_, by W. S. Gilly. + + Good pictures of Dauphine scenery are to be found in _Voyages + Pittoresques dans l'ancienne France_, by Ch. Nodier, J. Taylor, and + A. de Cailleux, and in Lord Monson's _Views in the Departments of + the Isere and the High Alps_. + + 17 M. Puiseux took for guide a man named Pierre Borneoud, of Claux in + the Val Louise; who had accompanied Captain Durand in 1828. In 1861, + the expedition of M. Puiseux was quite forgotten in the Val Louise. + I am indebted to M. Puiseux for the above and other details. + + 18 This is a common saying in Dauphine. It means that there is usually + less snow on the mountains during these days than at any other time + of the year. The natives have an almost childish dread of venturing + upon snow or glaciers, and hence the period of minimum snow seems to + them to be the most favourable time for excursions. + + 19 See Chapter VII. + + 20 Monte Viso is not seen from the Lautaret Road. That this is so is + seen when one crosses the Col du Galibier, on the south side of + which pass the Monte Viso is visible for a short time. + + 21 It became a regular business. "We find amongst the current accounts + of the Bailiff of Embrun this singular article--'_Item, for + persecuting the Vaudois, eight sols and thirty deniers of + gold._'"--Muston, vol. i. p. 38. + + 22 On the 22d of May 1393, eighty persons of the valleys of + Freissinieres and Argentiere, and one hundred and fifty persons of + the Val Louise, were burnt at Embrun.--Muston, vol. i. p. 41. + + 23 See Morland's _History of the Evangelical Churches of Piedmont_, + 1658; Cromwell's _Acts_, 1658; and Burton's _Diary_, 1828. + + 24 The commune of the Val Louise contains at the present time about + 3400 inhabitants. This cretin population has been aptly described by + M. Elisee Reclus in the _Tour du Monde_, 1860. He says:--"They attain + the highest possible development of their intelligence in their + infancy, and--abundantly provided with majestic goitres, which are + lengthened and swollen by age--are in this respect like to the + ourangoutangs, who have nothing more to acquire after the age of + three years. At the age of five years the little cretins have + already the placid and mature expression which they ought to keep + all their lives.... They wear trousers, and coats with tails, and a + large black hat." + + 25 "The nucleus of the 'massif' is a line protogine, divided by nearly + vertical cracks."--_Dollfus-Ausset._ + + 26 J. G. Whittier, "Snow-Bound." + + 27 M. Puiseux, on his expedition of 1848, was surprised, when at + breakfast on the side of the mountain, by a mass of rock of more + than a cubic yard falling like a bomb at his side, which threw up + splinters in all directions. + + 28 This mountain is the culminating point of the group, and is named on + the French map, Pointe des Ecrins. It is seen from the Val + Christophe, and from that direction its ridges completely conceal + Mont Pelvoux. On the other side--that is, from the direction of La + Bessee or the Val Louise--the reverse is the case: the Pelvoux + completely conceals it. + + Unaware that this name was going to be applied to it, we gave the + name Pic des Arcines or des Ecrins to our summit, in accordance with + the traditions of the natives. + + 29 There are three cols or passes close to Monte Viso on its northern + side, which lead from the valley of the Po into that of the Guil. + The deep notch spoken of above is the nearest to the mountain, and + although it is by far the lowest gap in that part of the chain, and + would seem to be the true Col Viso, it does not appear to be used as + a pass. The second, which I crossed in 1860, has the name Col del + Color del Porco given to it upon the Sardinian map! The third is the + Col de la Traversette; and this, although higher than at least one + of those mentioned above, is that which is used by the natives who + pass from one valley to the other. + + 30 See Ladoucette's _Hautes-Alpes_, p. 596. + + 31 Frequently spelt Breuil. + + 32 See the Map of the Matterhorn and its Glaciers. + + 33 There were no guides, properly speaking, in this valley at that + time, with the exception of one or two Pessions and Pelissiers. + + 34 This face is that on the right hand of the large engraving opposite + p. 46. It is also represented, more prominently, in the engraving + facing p. 227. + + 35 Mr. Hawkins was unaware that any attempts had been made before his + own, and spoke of it as the first. + +_ 36 Macmillan_, 1861. + + 37 This ridge is seen on the left of the large engraving accompanying + this chapter; and if the reader consults this view, the explanatory + outlines, and the maps, he will be able to form a fair idea of the + points which were attained on this and on the subsequent attempts. + + 38 Since this time the small peak has received the name Tete du Lion. + The gap is now called the Col du Lion; the glacier at its base, the + Glacier du Lion; and the gully which connects the Col with the + glacier, the Couloir du Lion. + + 39 By the kindness of its owner, Mr. F. Tuckett. + + 40 See Appendix A. + + 41 A view of this place faces p. 76. + + 42 The guide Bennen must be excepted. + + 43 The engraving is made after a sketch taken from the rocks of the + Matterhorn just above the Col. + + 44 J. G. Whittier. + + 45 Mr. Hawkins referred to this place as one of excessive difficulty. + He, however, found it coated with ice; we found it free from ice. + + 46 I learned afterwards from Jean-Antoine Carrel that they got + considerably higher than upon their previous attempts, and about 250 + or 300 feet higher than Professor Tyndall in 1860. In 1862 I saw the + initials of J. A. Carrel cut on the rocks at the place where he and + his comrade had turned back. + + 47 This man proved to be both willing and useful on lower ground, and + voluntarily accompanied me a considerable distance out of his way, + without fee or reward. + +_ 48 Alpine Journal_, 1863, p. 82. + + 49 See p. 49. + +_ 50 Mountaineering in 1861_, pp. 86-7. Tyndall and Bennen were mistaken + in supposing that the mountain has two summits; it has only one. + They seem to have been deceived by the appearance of that part of + the south-west ridge which is called "the shoulder" (l'epaule), as + seen from Breil. Viewed from that place, its southern end has + certainly, through foreshortening, the semblance of a peak; but when + one regards it from the Col Theodule, or from any place in the same + direction, the delusion is at once apparent. + + 51 The late Principal Forbes was similarly situated while crossing the + same pass in 1842. He described the sounds as rustling, fizzing, and + hissing. See his _Travels in the Alps of Savoy_, second ed., p. 323. + Mr. R. Spence Watson experienced the same upon the upper part of the + Aletsch glacier in July 1863, and he spoke of the sounds as singing + or hissing. See the _Athenaeum_, Sept. 12, 1863. The respective + parties seem to have been highly electrified on each occasion. + Forbes says that his fingers "yielded a fizzing sound;" and Watson + says that his "hair stood on end in an uncomfortable but very + amusing manner," and that "the veil on the wide-awake of one of the + party stood upright in the air!" + + 52 I have described this tent at length, as frequent application has + been made to me for information on the subject. I would strongly + recommend any person who wishes to have one for long-continued use, + to have one made under his own eye, and to be particularly careful + to test the poles. My experience goes to show that poles which (when + supported upon their extremities) will bear a dead weight of 100 + lbs. suspended from their centres, will stand any wind to which they + are likely to be submitted. Ash is, perhaps, the best wood that can + be selected. Tents of this pattern have been used, amongst others, + by Messrs. Freshfield, Moore, and Tucker, in the Caucasus; by the + Rev. W. H. Hawker in Corsica; and by myself in Greenland. + + 53 The heights given on the outlines of the Matterhorn accompanying + Chap. III., on the geological section in the Appendix, and quoted + throughout the book, are after the barometric (mercurial) + measurements of Signor F. Giordano in 1866 and 1868. I have ventured + to differ from him only in regard to the height of the second + tent-platform, and have assigned to it a somewhat lower elevation + than his estimate. + + 54 During this time making the ascent of Monte Rosa. + + 55 They were not guides by profession. + + 56 Those which I collected were as follow:--_Myosotis alpestris_, Gm.; + _Veronica alpina_, L.; _Linaria alpina_, M.; _Gentiana Bavarica_, + L.; _Thlaspi rotundifolium_, Gaud.; _Silene acaulis_, L. (?); + _Potentilla_ sp.; _Saxifraga_ sp.; _Saxifraga muscoides_, Wulf. I am + indebted for these names to Mr. William Carruthers of the British + Museum. These plants ranged from about 10,500 to a little below + 13,000 feet, and are the highest which I have seen anywhere in the + Alps. Several times this number of species might be collected, I + have no doubt, within these limits. I was not endeavouring to make a + _flora_ of the Matterhorn, but to obtain those plants which attained + the greatest height. Very few lichens are seen on the higher parts + of this mountain; their rarity is due, doubtless, to the constant + disintegration of the rocks, and the consequent exposure of fresh + surfaces. _Silene acaulis_ was the highest plant found by De + Saussure on his travels in the Alps. He mentions (§ 2018) that he + found a tuft "near the place where I slept on my return (from the + ascent of Mont Blanc), about 1780 toises (11,388 feet) above the + level of the sea." + + Mr. William Mathews and Mr. Charles Packe, who have botanised + respectively for many years in the Alps and Pyrenees, have favoured + me with the names of the highest plants that they have obtained upon + their excursions. Their lists, although not extensive, are + interesting as showing the extreme limits attained by some of the + hardiest of Alpine plants. Those mentioned by Mr. Mathews + are--_Campanula renisia_ (on the Grivola, 12,047 feet); _Saxifraga + bryoides_ and _Androsace glacialis_ (on the summits of Mont Emilius, + 11,677, and the Ruitor, 11,480); _Ranunculus glacialis_, _Armeria + alpina_, and _Pyrethrum alpinum_ (on Monte Viso, from 10,000 to + 10,500 feet); _Thlaspi rotundifolium_ and _Saxifraga biflora_ (Monte + Viso, about 9500 feet); and _Campanula rotundifolia_ (?), _Artemisia + spicata_ (Wulf.), _Aronicum Doronicum_, and _Petrocallis Pyrenaica_ + (Col de Seylieres, 9247). + + Mr. Packe obtained, on or close to the summit of the Pic de + Mulhahacen, Sierra Nevada, of Granada (11,600 to 11,700 feet), + _Papaver alpinum_ (var. _Pyrenaicum_), _Artemisia Nevadensis_ (used + for giving the flavour to the Manzanilla sherry), _Viola + Nevadensis_, _Galium Pyrenaicum_, _Trisetum glaciale_, _Festuca + Clementei_, _Saxifraga Groenlandica_ (var. _Mista_), _Erigeron + alpinum_ (var. _glaciale_), and _Arenaria tetraquetra_. On the + Picacho de Veleta (11,440 feet), and on the Alcazaba (11,350), the + same plants were obtained, with the exception of the first named. At + a height of 11,150 feet on these mountains he also collected + _Ptilotrichum purpureum_, _Lepidium stylatum_, and _Biscutella + saxatilis_; and, at 10,000 feet, _Alyssum spicatum_ and _Sideritis + scordiodes_. Mr. Packe mentions the following plants as occurring at + 9000 to 10,000 feet in the Pyrenees:--_Cerastium latifolium_, _Draba + Wahlenbergii_, _Hutchinsia alpina_, _Linaria alpina_, _Oxyria + reniformis_, _Ranunculus glacialis_, _Saxifraga nervosa_, _S. + oppositifolia_, _S. Groenlandica_, _Statice Armeria_, _Veronica + alpina_. + + Information on the botany of the Val Tournanche is contained in the + little pamphlet by the late Canon G. Carrel, entitled _La Vallee de + Valtornenche en 1867_; and a list of the plants which have hitherto + been collected on the glacier-surrounded ridge (Furgen Grat) + connecting the Matterhorn with the Col Theodule, will be found in + Dollfus-Ausset's _Materiaux pour l'etude des Glaciers_, vol. viii. + part first, 1868. In the _Jahrbuch_ for 1873 of the Swiss Alpine + Club it is stated that on an ascent of the Finsteraarhorn (14,106 + feet) the following were collected within the last 1000 + feet:--_Saxifraga bryoides_, _S. Muscoides_, _Achillea atrata_, and + _Ranunculus glacialis_. + + 57 I have already had occasion to mention the rapid changes which occur + in the weather at considerable elevations in the Alps, and shall + have to do so again in subsequent chapters. No one can regret more + than myself the variable weather which afflicts that otherwise + delightful chain of mountains, or the necessity of speaking about + it: its summits appear to enjoy more than their fair share of wind + and tempests. Meteorological disturbances, some would say, are by no + means necessary accompaniments of high regions. There are some happy + places which are said to be favoured with almost perpetual calm. + Take the case of the Sierra Nevada of California, for example, which + includes numerous summits from 13,000 to 15,000 feet. Mr. Whitney, + of San Francisco, says (in his _Guide-book to the Yosemite Valley, + and the adjacent region_), "At high altitudes, all through the + mountains, the weather during the summer is almost always the finest + possible for travelling. There are occasional storms in the high + mountains; but, in ordinary seasons, these are quite rare, and one + of the greatest drawbacks to the pleasure of travelling in the Alps, + the uncertainty of the weather, is here almost entirely wanting." It + is probable that a more thorough acquaintance with that region will + modify this opinion; for it must be admitted that it is very + difficult to judge of the state of the atmosphere at great heights + from the valleys, and it often occurs that a terrific storm is + raging above when there is a dead calm below, at a distance perhaps + of not more than three or four miles. A case of this kind is + described in Chapter VI., and another may be mentioned here. At the + very time that I was regarding the Dent Blanche from a height of + 12,550 feet on the Matterhorn, Mr. T. S. Kennedy was engaged in + making the first ascent of the former mountain. He described his + ascent in a very picturesque paper in the _Alpine Journal_ (1863), + and I learn from it that he experienced severe weather. "The wind + roared over our ridge, making fearfully wild music among the + desolate crags.... It rendered an ordinary voice inaudible," and + "nothing at a distance greater than fifty yards could be seen at + all.... Thick mists and driving clouds of snow swept over and past + us;" the thermometer fell to 20 deg. Fahr., and his companion's hair + became a mass of white icicles. Now, at this time, Mr. Kennedy was + distant from me only four and a half miles. With me, and in my + immediate neighbourhood, the air was perfectly calm, and the + temperature was agreeably warm; even during the night it fell only + two or three degrees below freezing-point. During most of the day + the Dent Blanche was perfectly unclouded, though, for a time, light + fleecy clouds were hovering about its upper 2000 feet. Still no one + would have supposed from appearances that my friend was experiencing + a storm such as he has described. + + 58 See the engraving "Crags of the Matterhorn," facing p. 120. + + 59 A remarkable streak of snow (marked "cravate" in the outline of the + Matterhorn, as seen from the Theodule) runs across the cliff at this + part of the mountain. My highest point was somewhat higher than the + lowest part of this snow, and was consequently about 13,400 feet + above the sea. + + 60 I received much attention from a kind English lady who was staying + in the inn. + + 61 As it seldom happens that one survives such a fall, it may be + interesting to record what my sensations were during its occurrence. + I was perfectly conscious of what was happening, and felt each blow; + but, like a patient under chloroform, experienced no pain. Each blow + was, naturally, more severe than that which preceded it, and I + distinctly remember thinking, "Well, if the next is harder still, + that will be the end!" Like persons who have been rescued from + drowning, I remember that the recollection of a multitude of things + rushed through my head, many of them trivialities or absurdities, + which had been forgotten long before; and, more remarkable, this + bounding through space did not feel disagreeable. But I think that + in no very great distance more, consciousness as well as sensation + would have been lost, and upon that I base my belief, improbable as + it seems, that death by a fall from a great height is as painless an + end as can be experienced. + + The battering was very rough, yet no bones were broken. The most + severe cuts were one of four inches long on the top of the head, and + another of three inches on the right temple: this latter bled + frightfully. There was a formidable-looking cut, of about the same + size as the last, on the palm of the left hand, and every limb was + grazed, or cut, more or less seriously. The tips of the ears were + taken off, and a sharp rock cut a circular bit out of the side of + the left boot, sock, and ankle, at one stroke. The loss of blood, + although so great, did not seem to be permanently injurious. The + only serious effect has been the reduction of a naturally retentive + memory to a very common-place one; and although my recollections of + more distant occurrences remain unshaken, the events of that + particular day would be clean gone but for the few notes which were + written down before the accident. + + 62 An incident like this goes far to make one look favourably upon the + _reglements_ of Chamounix and other places. This could not have + occurred at Chamounix, nor here, if there had been a _bureau des + guides_. + + 63 This appeared to be the most difficult part of the mountain. One was + driven to keep to the edge of the ridge, or very near to it; and at + the point where we turned back (which was almost as high as the + _highest_ part of the "cravate," and perhaps 100 feet higher than my + scramble on the 19th) there were smooth walls seven or eight feet + high in every direction, which were impassable to a single man, and + which could only be surmounted by the assistance of ladders, or by + using one's comrades as ladders. + + 64 See Appendix H. + + 65 Professor Tyndall describes this incident in the following + words:--"We had gathered up our traps, and bent to the work before + us, when suddenly an explosion occurred overhead. We looked aloft + and saw in mid-air a solid shot from the Matterhorn describing its + proper parabola, and finally splitting into fragments as it smote + one of the rocky towers in front. Down the shattered fragments came + like a kind of spray, slightly wide of us, but still near enough to + compel a sharp look-out. Two or three such explosions occurred, but + we chose the back fin of the mountain for our track, and from this + the falling stones were speedily deflected right or left."--_Saturday + Review_, Aug. 8, 1863. Reprinted in _Macmillan's Magazine_, April, + 1869. + +_ 66 Saturday Review_, August 8, 1863. + + 67 The pinnacle, in fact, had a name,--"L'ange Anbe." + +_ 68 Saturday Review_, 1863, and _Macmillan's Magazine_, 1869. + + 69 I have entered into this matter because much surprise has been + expressed that Carrel was able to pass this place without any great + difficulty in 1865, which turned back so strong a party in 1862. The + cause of Professor Tyndall's defeat was simply that his second guide + (Walter) did not give aid to Bennen when it was required, and that + the Carrels _would not act as guides after having been hired as + porters_. J.-A. Carrel not only knew of the existence of this place + before they came to it, but always believed in the possibility of + passing it, and of ascending the mountain; and had he been leader to + the party, I do not doubt that he might have taken Tyndall to the + top. But when appealed to to assist Bennen (a Swiss, and the + recognised leader of the party), was it likely that he (an Italian, + a porter), who intended to be the first man up the mountain by a + route which he regarded peculiarly his own, would render any aid? + + It is not so easy to understand how Dr. Tyndall and Bennen + overlooked the existence of this cleft, for it is seen over several + points of the compass, and particularly well from the southern side + of the Theodule pass. Still more difficult is it to explain how the + Professor came to consider that he was only a stone's-throw from the + summit; for, when he got to the end of "the shoulder," he must have + been perfectly aware that the whole height of the final peak was + still above him. + + 70 Dr. Tyndall ascended the Matterhorn in 1868. See Appendix *F*. + + 71 Information upon the Val Tournanche will be found in De Saussure's + _Voyages dans les Alpes_, vol. iv. pp. 379-81, 406-9; in Canon + Carrel's pamphlet, _La Vallee de Valtornenche en 1867_; and in + King's _Italian Valleys of the Alps_, pp. 220-1. + + 72 I shall speak again of this mountain, and therefore pass it over for + the present. + + 73 See the Map of the Matterhorn and its Glaciers. + + 74 My attention was directed to this note by Mr. A. Adams-Reilly. + + 75 The summit of the Theodule pass is 10,899 feet above the sea. It is + estimated that of late about a thousand tourists have crossed it per + annum. In the winter, when the crevasses are bridged over and + partially filled up, and the weather is favourable, cows and sheep + pass over it from Zermatt to Val Tournanche, and _vice versa_. + + In the _middle of August, 1792_, De Saussure appears to have taken + mules from Breil, over the Val Tournanche glacier to the summit of + the Theodule; and on a previous journey he did the same, also in the + middle of August. He distinctly mentions (§ 2220) that the glacier + was completely covered with snow, and that _no_ crevasses were open. + I do not think mules could have been taken over the same spot in any + August during the past twenty years without great difficulty. In + that month the glacier is usually very bare of snow, and many + crevasses are open. They are easily enough avoided by those on foot, + but would prove very troublesome to mules. + + A few days before we crossed the Breuiljoch in 1863, Mr. F. Morshead + made a parallel pass to it. He crossed the ridge on the _western_ + side of the little peak, and followed a somewhat more difficult + route than ours. In 1865 I wanted to use Mr. Morshead's pass (see p. + 235), but found that it was not possible to descend the Zermatt + side; for, during the two years which had elapsed, the glacier had + shrunk so much that it was completely severed from the summit of the + pass, and we could not get down the rocks that were exposed. + + 76 Although the admirable situation of Zermatt has been known for, at + least, forty years, it is only within the last twenty or so that it + has become an approved Alpine centre. Thirty years ago the Theodule + pass, the Weissthor, and the Col d'Herens, were, I believe, the only + routes ever taken from Zermatt across the Pennine Alps. At the + present time there are (inclusive of these passes and of the valley + road) no less than twenty-six different ways in which a tourist may + go from Zermatt. The summits of some of these cols are more than + 14,000 feet above the level of the sea, and a good many of them + cannot be recommended, either for ease, or as offering the shortest + way from Zermatt to the valleys and villages to which they lead. + + Zermatt itself is still only a village with 600 inhabitants (about + forty of whom are guides), with picturesque chalet dwellings, black + with age. The hotels, including the new inn on the Riffelberg, + mostly belong to M. Alexandre Seiler, to whom the village and valley + are very much indebted for their prosperity, and who is the best + person to consult for information, or in all cases of difficulty. + + 77 "Un des faits les mieux constates est que l'erosion des glaciers se + distingue de celle des eaux en ce que la premiere produit des roches + convexes ou moutonnees, tandis que la seconde donne lieu a des + concavites."--Prof. B. Studer, _Origine des Lacs Suisses_. + + 78 Professor Ruskin's view of "the Cervin from the north-west" (_Modern + Painters_, vol. iv.) is taken from the Stockje. The Col du Lion is a + little depression on the ridge, close to the margin of the + engraving, on the right-hand side; the third tent-platform was + formed at the foot of the perpendicular cliff, on the ridge, exactly + one-third way between the Col du Lion and the summit. The + battlemented portion of the ridge, a little higher up, is called the + "_crete du coq_"; and the nearly horizontal portion of the ridge + above it is "the shoulder." + + 79 On p. 7 it is stated that there was not a pass from Prerayen to + Breil in 1860, and this is correct. On July 8, 1868, my enterprising + guide, Jean-Antoine Carrel, started from Breil at 2 A.M. with a + well-known comrade--J. Baptiste Bich, of Val Tournanche--to endeavour + to make one. They went towards the glacier which descends from the + Dent d'Erin to the south-east, and, on arriving at its base, + ascended at first by some snow between it and the cliffs on its + south, and afterwards took to the cliffs themselves. [This glacier + they called the glacier of Mont Albert, after the local name of the + peak which on Mr. Reilly's map of the Valpelline is called "Les + Jumeaux." On Mr. Reilly's map the glacier is called "Glacier + d'Erin."] They ascended the rocks to a considerable height, and then + struck across the glacier, towards the north, to a small "_rognon_" + (isolated patch of rocks) that is nearly in the centre of the + glacier. They passed above this, and between it and the great + _seracs_. Afterwards their route led them towards the Dent d'Erin, + and they arrived at the base of its final peak by mounting a + _couloir_ (gully filled with snow), and the rocks at the head of the + glacier. They gained the summit of their pass at 1 P.M., and, + descending by the glacier of Zardesan, arrived at Prerayen at 6.30 + P.M. + + As their route joins that taken by Messrs. Hall, Grove, and + Macdonald, on their ascent of the Dent d'Erin in 1863, it is evident + that that mountain can be ascended from Breil. Carrel considers that + the route taken by himself and his comrade Bich can be improved + upon; and, if so, it is possible that the ascent of the Dent d'Erin + can be made from Breil in less time than from Prerayen. Breil is + very much to be preferred as a starting-point. + + 80 See p. 8. The height of this pass, according to the late Canon + Carrel, is 10,335 feet. A portrait of this enthusiastic and worthy + mountaineer is given upon p. 109. + + 81 A brief account of this excursion was published in the _Athenaeum_, + August 29, 1863. + + 82 This incident occurred close to the place represented in the + engraving facing p. 78. The new, dry snow was very troublesome, and + poured down like flour into the steps which were cut across the + slopes. The front man accordingly moved ahead as far as possible, + and anchored himself to rocks. A rope was sent across to him, was + fixed at each end, and was held as a rail by the others as they + crossed. We did not trust to this rope alone, but were also tied in + the usual manner. The second rope was employed as an additional + security against slips. + + 83 "There is, therefore, little hope of thus arriving at anything + decisive as to the exact part which echoes take in the production of + the rolling sound of thunder." P. 165, English ed., translated by + Col. Sabine: Longmans, 1855. + + 84 The same has seemed to me to be the case at all times when I have + been close to the points of explosion. There has been always a + distinct interval between the first explosion and the rolling sounds + and secondary explosions which I have _believed_ to be merely + echoes; but it has never been possible (except in the + above-mentioned case) to _identify_ them as such. + + Others have observed the same. "The geologist, Professor Theobald, + of Chur, who was in the Solferino storm, between the Tschiertscher + and Urden Alp, in the electric clouds, says that the peals were + short, like cannon shots, but of a clearer, more cracking tone, and + that the rolling of the thunder was only heard farther on." + Berlepsch's _Alps_, English ed., p. 133. + + 85 Mr. J. Glaisher has frequently pointed out that all sounds in + balloons at some distance from the earth are notable for their + brevity. "It is one sound only; _there is no reverberation, no + reflection_; and this is characteristic of all sounds in the + balloon, one clear sound, continuing during its own vibrations, then + gone in a moment."--_Good Words_, 1863, p. 224. + + I learn from Mr. Glaisher that the thunder-claps which have been + heard by him during his "travels in the air" have been no exception + to the general rule, and the absence of rolling has fortified his + belief that the rolling sounds which accompany thunder are echoes, + and echoes _only_. + + 86 See Appendix B for the experiences of Mr. R. B. Heathcote during a + thunderstorm on the Matterhorn in 1869. + + 87 Since then (on at least one occasion), several persons have found + themselves in this predicament for five or six consecutive days! + + 88 I am speaking exclusively of the disturbances which occur in the + day-time during fine weather. + + 89 The rocks are sometimes so hot that they are almost painful to + touch. + + 90 The mists are extremely deceptive to those who are on the mountain + itself. Sometimes they _seem_ to be created at a _considerable + distance_, as if the whole of the atmosphere of the neighbourhood + was undergoing a change, when in reality they are being formed in + immediate proximity to the mountain. + + 91 Croz was born at the Village du Tour, in the valley of Chamounix, on + April 22, 1830; Almer was a year or two older. + + 92 The Pointe des Ecrins is also seen from the top of the Col de + Valloires, rising above the Col du Galibier. This is the lowest + elevation from which I have seen the actual summit of the Ecrins. + + 93 It should be observed that these mountains were included in the + territory recently ceded to France. The Sardinian map above referred + to was the old official map. The French survey alluded to afterwards + is the survey in continuation of the great French official map. + Sheet No. 179 includes the Aiguilles d'Arve. + + 94 Whilst stopping in the hospice on the Col de Lautaret, in 1869, I + was accosted by a middle-aged peasant, who asked if I would ride + (for a consideration) in his cart towards Briancon. He was + inquisitive as to my knowledge of his district, and at last asked, + "Have you been at La Sausse?" "Yes." "Well, then, I tell you, _you + saw there some of the first people in the world_." "Yes," I said, + "they were primitive, certainly." But he was serious, and went + on--"Yes, real brave people;" and, slapping his knee to give + emphasis, "_but that they are first-rate for minding the cows!_" + + After this he became communicative. "You thought, probably," said + he, "when I offered to take you down, that I was some poor ----, not + worth a _sou_; but I will tell you, that was my mountain! _my_ + mountain! that you saw at La Sausse; they were _my_ cows! a hundred + of them altogether." "Why, you are rich." "Passably rich. I have + another mountain on the Col du Galibier, and another at Villeneuve." + He (although a common peasant in outward appearance) confessed to + being worth four thousand pounds. + + 95 We had seen a tracing from the unpublished sheets of the French + Government Survey. + + 96 The bracketed paragraphs in Chaps. VII. VIII. and IX. are extracted + from the Journal of Mr. A. W. Moore. + + It would be uninteresting and unprofitable to enter into a + discussion of the confusion of these names at greater length. It is + sufficient to say that they were confounded in a most perplexing + manner by all the authorities we were able to consult, and also by + the natives on the spot. + + 97 A great part of this morning's route led over shales, which were + loose and troublesome, and were probably a continuation of the + well-known beds of the Col du Galibier and the Col de Lautaret. + + 98 The ridge called La Meije runs from E.S.E. to W.N.W., and is crowned + by numerous aiguilles of tolerably equal elevation. The two highest + are towards the eastern and western ends of the ridge, and are + rather more than a mile apart. To the former the French surveyors + assign a height of 12,730, and to the latter 13,080 feet. In our + opinion the western aiguille can hardly be more than 200 feet higher + than the eastern one. It is possible that its height may have + diminished since it was measured. + + In 1869 I carefully examined the eastern end of the ridge from the + top of the Col de Lautaret, and saw that the summit at that end can + be ascended by following a long glacier which descends from it + towards the N.E. into the Valley of Arsine. The highest summit + presents considerable difficulties. + + Sheet 189 of the French map is extremely inaccurate in the + neighbourhood of the Meije, and particularly so on its northern + side. The ridges and glaciers which are laid down upon it can + scarcely be identified on the spot. + + 99 The justness of the observation will be felt by those who knew La + Grave in or before 1864. At that time the horses of the couriers who + were passing from Grenoble to Briancon, and _vice versa_, were + lodged immediately underneath the salle-a-manger and bedrooms, and a + pungent, steamy odour rose from them through the cracks in the + floor, and constantly pervaded the whole house. I am told that the + inn has been considerably improved since 1864. + + 100 Our route from La Grave to La Berarde will be seen on the + accompanying map. + + 101 Taking one kind of work with another, a thousand feet of height per + hour is about as much as is usually accomplished on great Alpine + ascents. + + 102 Fig. 2 represents in a similar manner the distance and elevation of + the Matterhorn from and above Zermatt. See p. 45. + + 103 The drawing was inadvertently made the right way on the wood, and + the view is now _reversed_ in consequence. + + 104 This wall may be described as an exaggerated Gemmi, as seen from + Leukerbad. From the highest summit of La Meije right down to the + Glacier des Etancons (a depth of about 3200 feet), the cliff is all + but perpendicular, and appears to be completely unassailable. It is + the most imposing thing of its kind that I have seen. + + 105 Since this chapter was first printed, the whole of the Aiguilles + d'Arve have been ascended, and also the highest point of the Meije. + For information upon these ascents the reader is referred to the + pages of the _Alpine Journal_. + +_ 106 Alpine Journal_, December 1863. + + 107 There are more than twenty peaks exceeding 12,000 feet, and thirty + others exceeding 11,000 feet, within the district bounded by the + rivers Romanche, Drac, and Durance. + +_ 108 Alpine Journal_, Dec. 1863. + +_ 109 Alpine Journal_, June 1863. + + 110 The above view of the Ecrins was taken from the summit of the Col du + Galibier. + + 111 The most striking example which has come under my notice is referred + to in Chapter XIX. + + 112 See vol. i., p. 73 of _Alpine Journal_. We considered the height + assigned to the final peak by Mr. Bonney was too small, and thought + it should have been 200 feet more. + + 113 The Glacier Blanc is in the direction indicated by the arrow below + the letter *E* on the outline on p. 156. + + 114 The ascent of the Pointe des Ecrins has been made several times + since 1864. The second ascent was made by a French gentleman, named + Vincent, with the Chamounix guides Jean Carrier and Alexandre + Tournier. They followed our route, but reversed it; that is to say, + ascended by the western and descended by the eastern arete. + + The best course to adopt in future attacks on the mountain, would be + to bring a ladder, or some other means of passing the bergschrund, + in its centre, immediately under the summit. One could then proceed + directly upwards, and so avoid the labour and difficulties which are + inevitable upon any ascent by way of the aretes. + + 115 For route, see Map in Chap. VIII. + + 116 For route, see Map in Chap. VIII. + + 117 The path from Ville de Val Louise to Entraigues is good, and well + shaded by luxuriant foliage. The valley (d'Entraigues) is narrow; + bordered by fine cliffs; and closed at its western end by a noble + block of mountains, which looks much higher than it is. The highest + point (the Pic de Bonvoisin) is 11,500 feet. Potatoes, peas, and + other vegetables, are grown at Entraigues (5284 feet), although the + situation of the chalets is bleak, and cut off from the sun. + + The Combe (or Vallon) de la Selle joins the main valley at + Entraigues, and one can pass from the former by the little-known Col + de Loup (immediately to the south of the Pic de Bonvoisin) into the + Val Godemar. Two other passes, both of considerable height, lead + from the head of the Vallon de la Selle into the valleys of + Champoleon and Argentiere. + + 118 This, like many other names given to mountains and glaciers on sheet + 189, is not a local name, or, at least, is not one that is in common + use. + + 119 The height of the Col de Sellar (or de Celar) is 10,073 feet + (Forbes). I was told by peasants at Entraigues that sheep and goats + can be easily taken across it. + + 120 See map on p. 146. It is perhaps just possible, although improbable, + that these little glaciers were united together at the time that the + survey was made. Since then the glaciers of Dauphine (as throughout + the Alps generally) have shrunk very considerably. A notable + diminution took place in their size in 1869, which was attributed by + the natives to the very heavy rains of that year. + + 121 This drawing was made to illustrate the remarks which follow. It + does not represent any particular couloir, though it would serve, + tolerably well, as a portrait of the one which we ascended when + crossing the Col de Pilatte. + + 122 The upper part of the southern side of the Col de Pilatte, and the + small glaciers spoken of on p. 168, can be seen from the high road + leading from Briancon to Mont Dauphin, between the 12th and 13th + kilometre stones (from Briancon). + + 123 Since the above paragraphs were first printed, there has been some + improvement in Dauphine in respect to the inns; and there is now at + La Ville de Val Louise a very decent little auberge called the Hotel + Pelvoux, kept by M. Gauthier. + + 124 Under the title of _Massif du Mont Blanc, extrait des minutes de la + Carte de France, lere par M. Mieulet, Capitaine d'Etat Major_. + + 125 The heights (in metres) are after Captain Mieulet. + + 126 Some of these heights have no business to figure in a list of the + principal peaks of the chain, being nothing more than teeth or + pinnacles in ridges, or portions of higher mountains. Such, for + example, are the Aiguilles du Geant, du Dru, and de Bionnassay. + + 127 Besides Mont Blanc itself. + + 128 Previous to this we made an attempt to ascend the Aiguille + d'Argentiere, and were defeated by a violent wind when within a + hundred feet of the summit. + + 129 Great crevasses. A bergschrund is a schrund, and something more. + + 130 The passage of the Col de Triolet from the Couvercle to Pre du Bar + occupied 81/2 hours of actual walking. If the pass had been taken in + the contrary direction it would have consumed a much longer time. It + gave a route shorter than any known at the time between Chamounix + and the St. Bernard. As a pass I cannot conscientiously recommend it + to any one (see Chap. XVII.), nor am I desirous to go again over the + moraine on the left bank of the Glacier de Triolet, or the rocks of + Mont Rouge. + + 131 The ascent of Mont Dolent and return to Pre du Bar (halts included) + occupied less than 11 hours. + + 132 The bracketed paragraphs in this chapter are extracted from the + notes of Mr. Reilly. + + 133 From a sketch by Mr. Adams-Reilly. + + 134 This glacier is named Glacier du Mont Blanc. + + 135 The Calotte is the name given to the dome of snow at the summit of + Mont Blanc. + + 136 Glacier du Dome. + + 137 This is without a name. + + 138 I do not know the origin of the term _moraine_. De Saussure says + (vol. i. p. 380, § 536), "the peasants of Chamounix call these heaps + of debris _the moraine_ of the glacier." It may be inferred from + this that the term was a local one, peculiar to Chamounix. + + 139 An example is referred to on p. 106. Much more remarkable cases + might be instanced. + + 140 It is not usual to find small moraines to large glaciers fed by many + branches draining many different basins. That is, if the branches + are draining basins which are separated by mountain ridges, or + which, at least, have islands of rock protruding through the ice. + The small moraines contributed by one affluent are balanced, + probably, by great ones brought by another feeder. + +_ 141 Atlas of Physical Geography_, by Augustus Petermann and the Rev. T. + Milner. The italics are not in the original. + + 142 "The stones that are found upon the upper extremities of glaciers + are of the same nature as the mountains which rise above; but, as + the ice carries them down into the valleys, they arrive between + rocks of a totally different nature from their own."--De Saussure, § + 536. + + 143 One cannot do worse than follow that path. + + 144 The lower chalet de Lognan is 21/2 hours' walking from Chamounix. From + thence to the summit of the Aiguille d'Argentiere, and down to the + village of the same name, occupied 121/2 hours. + + 145 The Col de Zinal or Triftjoch, between the Trifthorn and the Ober + Gabelhorn; and the Col Durand between the last-mentioned mountain + and the Dent Blanche. + + For our route from Zinal to Zermatt, see the Map of the Valley of + Zermatt. + + 146 High above the Glacier de Moming at the foot of the Crete de Milton. + + 147 Moore's Journal. + + 148 Through what is technically called an "ice-fall." + + 149 The responsibility, however, did not rest with Croz. His part was to + advise, but not to direct. + + 150 The summit of the pass has been marked on Dufour's map 3793 metres, + or 12,444 feet. + + 151 These snow-cornices are common on the crests of high mountain + ridges, and it is always prudent (just before arriving upon the + summit of a mountain or ridge) to _sound_ with the alpenstock, that + is to say, drive it in, to discover whether there is one or not. Men + have often narrowly escaped losing their lives from neglecting this + precaution. Several instances have been known of cornices having + given way without a moment's notice, and of life only having been + saved through men being tied together. + + These cornices are frequently rolled round in a volute, and + sometimes take most extravagant forms. See page 32. + + 152 This opportunity has been taken to introduce to the reader some of + the most expert amateur mountaineers of the time; and a few of the + guides who have been, or will be, mentioned in the course of the + book. + + The late Peter Perrn is on the extreme right. Then come young Peter + Taugwalder (upon the bench); and J. J. Maquignaz (leaning against + the door-post). Franz Andermatten occupies the steps, and Ulrich + Lauener towers in the background. + + 153 See pp. 115 and 190. + + 154 See p. 141. + + 155 See pp. 169-171. + + 156 See pp. 236 and 266. + + 157 I engaged Croz for 1865 before I parted from him in 1864; but upon + writing to him in the month of April to fix the dates of his + engagement, I found that he had supposed he was free (in consequence + of not having heard from me earlier), and had engaged himself to a + Mr. B---- from the 27th of June. I endeavoured to hold him to his + promise, but he considered himself unable to withdraw from his later + obligation. His letters were honourable to him. The following + extract from the last one he wrote to me is given as an interesting + souvenir of a brave and upright man:-- + + [Illustration: Facsimile of a letter from Croz] + + 158 It was an entry describing an ascent of the Grand Cornier (which we + supposed had never been ascended) from the very direction which we + had just pronounced to be hopeless! It was especially startling, + because Franz Biener was spoken of in the account as having been + concerned in the ascent. On examining Biener it was found that he + had made the excursion, and had supposed at the time he was upon his + summit that it was the Grand Cornier. He saw afterwards that they + had only ascended one of the several points upon the ridge running + northwards from the Grand Cornier--I believe, the Pigne de l'Allee + (11,168 feet)! + + 159 For route, see the map of the Valley of Zermatt. + + 160 I wrote in the _Athenaeum_, August 29, 1863, to the same effect. + "This action of the frost does not cease in winter, inasmuch as it + is impossible for the Matterhorn to be entirely covered by snow. + Less precipitous mountains may be entirely covered up during winter, + and if they do not then actually gain height, the wear and tear is, + at least, suspended.... We arrive, therefore, at the conclusion + that, although such snow-peaks as Mont Blanc _may_ in the course of + ages grow higher, the Matterhorn must decrease in height." These + remarks have received confirmation. + + The men who were left by M. Dollfus-Ausset in his observatory upon + the summit of the Col Theodule, during the winter of 1865, remarked + that the snow was partially melted upon the rocks in their vicinity + upon 19th, 20th, 21st, 22d, 23d, 26th, 27th December of that year, + and upon the 22d of December they entered in their Journal, "_Nous + avons vu au Matterhorn que la neige se fondait sur roches et qu'il + s'en ecoulait de l'eau._"--_Materiaux pour l'etude des Glaciers_, + vol. viii. part i. p. 246, 1868; and vol. viii. part ii. p. 77, + 1869. + + 161 In each of the seven nights I passed upon the south-west ridge of + the Matterhorn in 1861-3 (at heights varying from 11,844 to 12,992 + feet above the level of the sea), the rocks fell incessantly in + showers and avalanches. See p. 120. + + 162 Tonson's Ed. of 1758. Bacon may have had this passage in mind when + he wrote, "It must not be thought that heat generates motion, or + motion heat (though in some respects this be true), but that the + very essence of heat, or the substantial self of heat, is motion and + nothing else."--_Novum Organum_, book ii. Devey's Translation. + + 163 Doubtless, _at the sides_ of glacier beds, the range of temperature + is greater. But there is evidence that the winter cold does not + penetrate to the innermost recesses of glacier-beds in the fact that + streams continue to flow underneath the ice all the year round, + winter as well as summer, in the Alps and (I was informed in + Greenland) in Greenland. Experimental proof can be readily obtained + that even in midsummer the bottom temperature is close to 32 deg. Faht. + + 164 Professor Tyndall "On the Conformation of the Alps," _Phil. Mag._, + Sept. 1862. + + 165 This had been crossed, for the first time, a few months before. + + 166 The following details may interest mountain-climbers. Left Zinal + (5505 feet) 2.5 A.M. Thence to plateau S.E. of summit of Grand + Cornier, 5 h. 25 min. From the plateau to the summit of the + mountain, 21/2 hours. The last 300 feet of the ridge followed were + exceedingly sharp and narrow, with a great cornice, from which huge + icicles depended. We were obliged to go _underneath_ the cornice, + and to cut a way through the icicles. Descent from summit to + plateau, 1 h. 40 min. Sharp snow-storm, with thunder. Plateau to + summit of Col du Grand Cornier (rocks easy), 45 min. From the summit + of the Col to the end of glacier leading to the west, 55 min. Thence + to Abricolla (7959), 15 min. + + 167 The brother of my guide Michel Croz. + + 168 See note to p. 70. + + 169 See map of the Valley of Zermatt. + + 170 Couloirs are invariably protected at their bases by bergschrunds. An + example of a couloir with a double bergschrund is given on p. 169. + + 171 The summit of the Dent Blanche is a ridge, perhaps one hundred yards + in length. The highest point is usually at its north-eastern end. + Several ascents besides those made by Mr. Kennedy and the author + have been made in late years; but, as yet, no one seems to have + discovered an easy route up the mountain. + + 172 The ascent of the Dent Blanche is the hardest that I have made. + There was nothing upon it so difficult as the last 500 feet of the + Pointe des Ecrins; but, on the other hand, there was hardly a step + upon it which was positively easy. The whole of the face required + actual climbing. There was, probably, very little difference in + difficulty between the route we took in 1865, and that followed by + Mr. Kennedy in 1862. + + 173 See Map of the Valley of Zermatt. The route taken upon June 19 is + alone marked. + + 174 See Chap. III. pp. 44-5. + + 175 Subsequent experiences of others have strengthened this opinion. + + 176 I prefer to be on the safe side. My impression is that snow cannot + accumulate in large masses _at_ 45 deg.. + + 177 Upon this subject I beg to refer the reader to the valuable note + furnished by Signor F. Giordano in the Appendix. + + 178 See pp. 56 and 73. + + 179 Weathered granite is an admirable rock to climb; its gritty texture + giving excellent hold to the nails in one's boots. But upon such + metamorphic schists as compose the mass of the great peak of the + Matterhorn, the texture of the rock itself is of little or no value. + + 180 I refer here only to that portion of the ridge which is between the + Col du Lion and the Great Tower. The remarks would not apply to the + rocks higher up (see p. 75); higher still the rocks are firm again; + yet higher (upon the "Shoulder") they are much disintegrated; and + then, upon the final peak, they are again firm. + +_ 181 Travels through the Alps_, 2nd ed. p. 317. + + 182 Its position is shown by the letter F, on the right of the outline, + on p. 85. See also Map of the Matterhorn and its Glaciers. + + 183 See p. 94. + + 184 See Frontispiece. + + 185 See note to p. 95. + + 186 The ascent of the Grandes Jorasses was made to obtain a view of the + upper part of the Aig. Verte, and upon that account the westernmost + summit was selected in preference to the highest one. Both summits + are shown upon the accompanying engraving. That on the right is (as + it appears to be) the highest. That upon its left is the one which + we ascended, and is about 100 feet lower than the other. A couple of + days after our ascent, Henri Grati, Julien Grange, Jos. Mar. Perrod, + Alexis Clusaz, and Daniel Gex (all of Courmayeur), followed our + traces to the summit in order to learn the way. As far as my + observation extends, such things are seldom done by money-grasping + or spiritless guides, and I have much pleasure in being able to + mention their names. The highest point (13,799) was ascended on June + 29-30, 1868, by Mr. Horace Walker, with the guides Melchior + Anderegg, J. Jaun, and Julien Grange. + + 187 The view of Mont Blanc from a gorge on the south of the Italian Val + Ferret, mid-way between the villages of La Vachey and Praz Sec, and + about 3000 feet above them, is, in my opinion, the finest which can + be obtained of that mountain range anywhere upon the Italian side. + + 188 The next generation may witness its extinction. The portion of it + seen from the village of Argentiere was in 1869 at least one quarter + less in width than it was ten years earlier. + + 189 This observation is not made without reason. I have seen the head of + one tumble off at a slight tap, in consequence of its handle having + been perforated by an ingenious but useless arrangement of nails. + + 190 I estimate its height at 1200 feet. The triangulation of Capt. + Mieulet places the summit of the pass 11,624 feet above the sea. + This, I think, is rather too high. + +_ 191 Wanderings among the High Alps_, 1858. + + 192 Most of his principal exploits are recorded in the publications of + the Alpine Club. + + 193 Engraved, by permission, from a photograph by Mr. E. Edwards. + + 194 Admirably rendered in the accompanying drawing by Mr. Cyrus Johnson. + + 195 I heard lately of two well-known mountaineers who, under the + influence of sudden alarm, _swallowed their crystals_. I am happy to + say that they were able to cough them up again. + + 196 Hand specimens of the highest rocks of the Aiguille Verte cannot be + distinguished from granite. The rock is almost identical in quality + with that at the summit of Mont Dolent, and is probably a granitoeid + gneiss. + + 197 The summit of the Aiguille Verte was a snowy dome, large enough for + a quadrille. I was surprised to see the great height of Les Droites. + Captain Mieulet places its summit at 13,222 feet, but I think it + must be very slightly lower than the Verte itself. + + 198 The Chamounix tariff price for the ascent of the Aiguille is now + placed at L4 _per guide_. + + 199 It should be said that we received the most polite apologies for + this affair from the chief of the gensdarmes, and an invitation to + lodge a complaint against the ring-leaders. We accepted his + apologies, and declined his invitation. Needless to add, Michel Croz + took no part in the demonstration. + + 200 Below the second ice-fall the glacier is completely covered up with + moraine matter, and if the _left_ bank is followed, one is compelled + either to traverse this howling waste or to lose much time upon the + tedious and somewhat difficult rocks of Mont Rouge. + + 201 In glissading an erect position should be maintained, and the point + of the alpenstock allowed to trail over the snow. If it is necessary + to stop, or to slacken speed, the point is pressed against the + slope, as shown in the illustration. + + 202 Comparison of the Col de Triolet with the Col de Talefre will show + what a great difference in ease there may be between tracks which + are nearly identical. For a distance of several miles these routes + are scarcely more than half-a-mile apart. Nearly every step of the + former is difficult, whilst the latter has no difficulty whatever. + The route we adopted over the Col de Talefre may perhaps be + improved. It may be possible to go directly from the head of the + Glacier de Triolet to its right bank, and, if so, at least thirty + minutes might be saved. + + The following is a list of the principal of the passes across the + main ridge of the range of Mont Blanc, with the years in which the + first passages were effected, as far as I know them:--1. Col de + Trelatete (1864), between Aig. du Glacier and Aig. de Trelatete. 2. + Col de Miage, between Aig. de Miage and Aig. de Bionnassay. 3. Col + du Dome (1865), over the Dome du Gouter. 4. Col du Mont Blanc + (1868), over Mont Blanc. 5. Col de la Brenva (1865), between Mont + Blanc and Mont Maudit. 6. Col de la Tour Ronde (1867), over la Tour + Ronde. 7. Col du Geant, between la Tour Ronde and Aigs. Marbrees. 8. + Col des Grandes Jorasses (1873), between the Grandes and Petites + Jorasses. 9. Col de Leschaux (1877), between the Aig. de + l'Eboulement and the Aig. de Leschaux. 10. Col Pierre Joseph (1866), + over Aig. de l'Eboulement. 11. Col de Talefre (1865), between Aigs. + Talefre and Triolet. 12. Col de Triolet (1864), between Aigs. + Talefre and Triolet. 13. Col Dolent (1865), between Aig. de Triolet + and Mont Dolent. 14. Col d'Argentiere (1861), between Mont Dolent + and la Tour Noire. 15. Col de la Tour Noire (1863), between the Tour + Noire and the Aig. d'Argentiere. 16. Col du Chardonnet (1863), + between Aigs. d'Argentiere and Chardonnet. 17. Col du Tour, between + Aigs. du Chardonnet and Tour. + + 203 After crossing the glacier de Breney, we ascended by some debris, + and then by some cliffy ground, to the glacier which surrounds the + peak upon the south; bore to the left (that is to the west) and went + up the edge of the glacier; and lastly took to the arete of the + ridge which descends towards the south-west, and followed it to the + summit (12,727). + + 204 Manufactured and sold by Messrs. Buckingham, Broad Street, + Bloomsbury. + + 205 For example, when the leader suspects crevasses, and _sounds_ for + them, in the manner shown in the engraving, he usually loses half a + step or more. The second man should take a turn of the rope around + his hand to draw it back in case the leader goes through. + + 206 When several persons are descending such places, it is evident that + the _last man_ cannot derive any assistance from the rope, and so + might as well be untied. Partly upon this account, it is usual to + place one of the strongest and steadiest men last. Now, although + this cannot be termed a senseless precaution, it is obvious that it + is a perfectly useless one, if it is true that a single slip would + upset the entire party. The best plan I know is that which we + adopted on the descent of the Col Dolent, namely, to let one man go + in advance until he reaches some secure point. This one then + detaches himself, the rope is drawn up, and another man is sent down + to join him, and so on until the last. The last man still occupies + the most difficult post, and should be the steadiest man; but he is + not exposed to any risk from his comrades slipping, and they, of + course, draw in the rope as he descends, so that his position is + less hazardous than if he were to come down quite by himself. + + 207 If you are out upon an excursion, and find the work becoming so + arduous that you have great difficulty in maintaining your balance, + you should at once retire, and not imperil the lives of others. I am + well aware that the withdrawal of one person for such reasons would + usually necessitate the retreat of a second, and that expeditions + would be often cut short if this were to happen. With the fear of + this before their eyes, I believe that many amateurs continue to go + on, albeit well convinced that they ought not. They do not wish to + stop the sport of their comrades; but they frequently suffer mental + tortures in consequence, which most emphatically do not assist their + stability, and are likely to lead to something even more + disagreeable than the abandonment of the excursion. The moral is, + take an adequate number of guides. + + 208 During the preceding eighteen days (I exclude Sundays and other + non-working days) we ascended more than 100,000 feet, and descended + 98,000 feet. + + 209 See p. 79. + + 210 Tourists usually congregate at Zermatt upon Sundays, and large gangs + and droves cross the Theodule pass on Mondays. + + 211 The Italian Minister. Signor Giordano had undertaken the business + arrangements for Signor Sella. + + 212 Peter Taugwalder, the father, is called _old_ Peter, to distinguish + him from his eldest son, _young_ Peter. In 1865 the father's age was + about 45. + + 213 Brother of the present Marquis of Queensberry. + + 214 For route, and the others mentioned in the subsequent chapters, see + map of Matterhorn and its glaciers. + + 215 The two young Taugwalders were taken as porters, by desire of their + father, and carried provisions amply sufficient for three days, in + case the ascent should prove more troublesome than we anticipated. + + 216 I remember speaking about pedestrianism to a well-known mountaineer + some years ago, and venturing to remark that a man who averaged + thirty miles a-day might be considered a good walker. "A fair + walker," he said, "a _fair_ walker." "What then would you consider + _good_ walking?" "Well," he replied, "I will tell you. Some time + back a friend and I agreed to go to Switzerland, but a short time + afterwards he wrote to say he ought to let me know that a young and + delicate lad was going with him who would not be equal to great + things, in fact, he would not be able to do more than fifty miles + a-day!" "What became of the young and delicate lad?" "He lives." + "And who was your extraordinary friend?" "Charles Hudson." I have + every reason to believe that the gentlemen referred to _were_ equal + to walking more than fifty miles a-day, but they were exceptional, + not _good_ pedestrians. + + Charles Hudson, Vicar of Skillington in Lincolnshire, was considered + by the mountaineering fraternity to be the best amateur of his time. + He was the organiser and leader of the party of Englishmen who + ascended Mont Blanc by the Aig. du Gouter, and descended by the + Grands Mulets route, without guides, in 1855. His long practice made + him surefooted, and in that respect he was not greatly inferior to a + born mountaineer. I remember him as a well-made man of middle height + and age, neither stout nor thin, with face pleasant--though grave, + and with quiet unassuming manners. Although an athletic man, he + would have been overlooked in a crowd; and although he had done the + greatest mountaineering feats which have been done, he was the last + man to speak of his own doings. His friend Mr. Hadow was a young man + of nineteen, who had the looks and manners of a greater age. He was + a rapid walker, but 1865 was his first season in the Alps. Lord + Francis Douglas was about the same age as Mr. Hadow. He had had the + advantage of several seasons in the Alps. He was nimble as a deer, + and was becoming an expert mountaineer. Just before our meeting he + had ascended the Ober Gabelhorn (with old Peter Taugwalder and Jos. + Viennin), and this gave me a high opinion of his powers; for I had + examined that mountain all round, a few weeks before, and had + declined its ascent on account of its apparent difficulty. + + My personal acquaintance with Mr. Hudson was very slight--still I + should have been content to have placed myself under his orders if + he had chosen to claim the position to which he was entitled. Those + who knew him will not be surprised to learn that, so far from doing + this, he lost no opportunity of consulting the wishes and opinions + of those around him. We deliberated together whenever there was + occasion, and our authority was recognised by the others. Whatever + responsibility there was devolved upon _us_. I recollect with + satisfaction that there was no difference of opinion between us as + to what should be done, and that the most perfect harmony existed + between all of us so long as we were together. + + 217 Arrived at the chapel 7.30 A.M.; left it, 8.20; halted to examine + route 9.30; started again 10.25, and arrived at 11.20 at the cairn + made by Mr. Kennedy in 1862 (see p. 59), marked 10,820 feet upon the + map. Stopped 10 min. here. From the Hoernli to this point we kept, + when possible, to the crest of the ridge. The greater part of the + way was excessively easy, though there were a few places where the + axe had to be used. + + 218 Thus far the guides did not once go to the front. Hudson or I led, + and when any cutting was required we did it ourselves. This was done + to spare the guides, and to show them that we were thoroughly in + earnest. The spot at which we camped was four hours' walking from + Zermatt, and is marked upon the map--CAMP (1865). It was just upon a + level with the Furggengrat, and its position is indicated upon the + engraving facing p. 227 by a little circular white spot, in a line + with the word CAMP. + + 219 It was originally intended to leave both of the young men behind. We + found it difficult to divide the food, and so the new arrangement + was made. + + 220 See pp. 227-231. + + 221 For track, see the lower of the outlines facing p. 230. + + 222 See remarks on aretes and faces on p. 206. There is very little to + choose between in the aretes leading from the summit towards the + Hoernli (N.E. ridge) and towards the Col du Lion (S.W. ridge). Both + are jagged, serrated ridges, which any experienced climber would + willingly avoid if he could find another route. On the northern + (Zermatt) side the eastern face affords another route, or any number + of routes, since there is hardly a part of it which cannot be + traversed! On the southern (Breil) side the ridge alone, generally + speaking, can be followed; and when it becomes impracticable, and + the climber is forced to bear down to the right or to the left, the + work is of the most difficult character. + + 223 Very few stones fell during the two days I was on the mountain, and + none came near us. Others who have followed the same route have not + been so fortunate; they may not, perhaps, have taken the same + precautions. It is a noteworthy fact, that the lateral moraine of + the left bank of the Furggengletscher is scarcely larger than that + of the right bank, although the former receives all the debris that + falls from the 4000 feet of cliffs which form the eastern side of + the Matterhorn, whilst the latter is fed by perfectly insignificant + slopes. Neither of these moraines is large. This is strong evidence + that stones do _not_ fall to any great extent from the eastern face. + The inward dip of the beds retains the detritus in place. Hence the + eastern face appears, when one is upon it, to be undergoing more + rapid disintegration than the other sides: in reality, the mantle of + ruin spares the mountain from farther waste. Upon the southern side, + rocks fall as they are rent off; "each day's work is cleared away" + every day; and hence the faces and ridges are left naked, and are + exposed to fresh attacks. + + 224 The snow seen in the engraving facing p. 227, half-an-inch below the + summit, and a little to its right. + + 225 This part was less steeply inclined than the whole of the eastern + face. + + 226 I have no memorandum of the time that it occupied. It must have + taken about an hour and a half. + + 227 The highest points are towards the two ends. In 1865 the northern + end was slightly higher than the southern one. In bygone years + Carrel and I often suggested to each other that we might one day + arrive upon the top, and find ourselves cut off from the very + highest point by a notch in the summit-ridge which is seen from the + Theodule and from Breil (marked *D* on the outline on p. 85). This + notch is very conspicuous from below, but when we were upon the + summit it was hardly noticed, and it could be passed without the + least difficulty. + + 228 I have learnt since from J.-A. Carrel that they heard our first + cries. They were then upon the south-west ridge, close to the + "Cravate," and _twelve hundred and fifty_ feet below us; or, as the + crow flies, at a distance of about one-third of a mile. + + 229 At our departure the men were confident that the ascent would be + made, and took one of the poles out of the tent. I protested that it + was tempting Providence; they took the pole, nevertheless. + + 230 Signor Giordano was naturally disappointed at the result, and wished + the men to start again. _They all refused to do so, with the + exception of Jean-Antoine._ Upon the 16th of July he set out again + with three others, and upon the 17th gained the summit by passing + (at first) up the south-west ridge, and (afterwards) by turning over + to the Z'Mutt, or north-western side. On the 18th he returned to + Breil. + + Whilst we were upon the southern end of the summit-ridge, we paid + some attention to the portion of the mountain which intervened + between ourselves and the Italian guides. It seemed as if there + would not be the least chance for them if they should attempt to + storm the final peak directly from the end of the "shoulder." In + that direction cliffs fell sheer down from the summit, and we were + unable to see beyond a certain distance. There remained the route + about which Carrel and I had often talked, namely to ascend directly + at first from the end of the "shoulder," and afterwards to swerve to + the left--that is, to the Z'Mutt side--and to complete the ascent from + the north-west. When we were upon the summit we laughed at this + idea. The part of the mountain that I have described upon p. 278, + was not easy, although its inclination was moderate. If that slope + were made only ten degrees steeper, its difficulty would be + enormously increased. To double its inclination would be to make it + impracticable. The slope at the southern end of the summit-ridge, + falling towards the north-west, was _much_ steeper than that over + which we passed, and we ridiculed the idea that any person should + attempt to ascend in that direction, when the northern route was so + easy. Nevertheless, the summit was reached by that route by the + undaunted Carrel. From knowing the final slope over which he passed, + and from the account of Mr. F. C. Grove--who is the only traveller by + whom it has been traversed--I do not hesitate to term the ascent of + Carrel and Bich in 1865 the most desperate piece of + mountain-scrambling upon record. In 1869 I asked Carrel if he had + ever done anything more difficult. His reply was, "Man cannot do + anything much more difficult than that!" See Appendix *D*. + + 231 The summit-ridge was much shattered, although not so extensively as + the south-west and north-east ridges. The highest rock, in 1865, was + a block of micaschist, and the fragment I broke off it not only + possesses, in a remarkable degree, the character of the peak, but + mimics, in an astonishing manner, the details of its form. (See + illustration on page 284.) + + 232 It is most unusual to see the southern half of the panorama + unclouded. A hundred ascents may be made before this will be the + case again. + + 233 The substance of Chapter XX. appeared in a letter in the _Times_, + August 8, 1865. A few paragraphs have now been added, and a few + corrections have been made. The former will help to make clear that + which was obscure in the original account, and the latter are, + mostly, unimportant. + + 234 If the members of the party had been more equally efficient, Croz + would have been placed _last_. + + 235 Described upon pp. 277-8. + + 236 Not at all an unusual proceeding, even between born mountaineers. I + wish to convey the impression that Croz was using all pains, rather + than to indicate extreme inability on the part of Mr. Hadow. The + insertion of the word "absolutely" makes the passage, perhaps, + rather ambiguous. I retain it now, in order to offer the above + explanation. + + 237 At the moment of the accident, Croz, Hadow, and Hudson, were all + close together. Between Hudson and Lord F. Douglas the rope was all + but taut, and the same between all the others, who were _above_. + Croz was standing by the side of a rock which afforded good hold, + and if he had been aware, or had suspected, that anything was about + to occur, he might and would have gripped it, and would have + prevented any mischief. He was taken totally by surprise. Mr. Hadow + slipped off his feet on to his back, his feet struck Croz in the + small of the back, and knocked him right over, head first. Croz's + axe was out of his reach, yet without it he managed to get his head + uppermost before he disappeared from our sight. If it had been in + his hand I have no doubt that he would have stopped himself and Mr. + Hadow. + + Mr. Hadow, at the moment of his slip, was not occupying a bad + position. He could have moved either up or down, and could touch + with his hand the rock of which I have spoken. Hudson was not so + well placed, but he had liberty of motion. The rope was not taut + from him to Hadow, and the two men fell ten or twelve feet before + the jerk came upon him. Lord F. Douglas was not favourably placed, + and could neither move up nor down. Old Peter was firmly planted, + and stood just beneath a large rock which he hugged with both arms. + I enter into these details to make it more apparent that the + position occupied by the party at the moment of the accident was not + by any means excessively trying. We were compelled to pass over the + exact spot where the slip occurred, and we found--even with shaken + nerves--that _it_ was not a difficult place to pass. I have described + the _slope generally_ as difficult, and it is so undoubtedly to most + persons; but it must be distinctly understood that Mr. Hadow slipped + at an easy part. + + 238 Or, more correctly, we held on as tightly as possible. There was no + time to change our position. + + 239 These ends, I believe, are still attached to the rocks, and mark our + line of ascent and descent. I saw one of them in 1873. + + 240 I paid very little attention to this remarkable phenomenon, and was + glad when it disappeared, as it distracted our attention. Under + ordinary circumstances I should have felt vexed afterwards at not + having observed with greater precision an occurrence so rare and so + wonderful. I can add very little about it to that which is said + above. The sun was directly at our backs; that is to say, the + fog-bow was opposite to the sun. The time was 6.30 P.M. The forms + were at once tender and sharp; neutral in tone; were developed + gradually, and disappeared suddenly. The mists were light (that is, + not dense), and were dissipated in the course of the evening. + + It has been suggested that the crosses are incorrectly figured in + the accompanying view, and that they were probably formed by the + intersection of other circles or ellipses, as shown in the annexed + diagram. I think this suggestion is very likely correct; but I have + preferred to follow my original memorandum. + + [Illustration: Diagram of fog-bow] + + In Parry's _Narrative of an Attempt to reach the North Pole_, 4to, + 1828, there is, at pp. 99-100, an account of the occurrence of a + phenomenon analogous to the above-mentioned one. "At half-past five + P.M. we witnessed a very beautiful natural phenomenon. A broad white + fog-bow first appeared opposite to the sun, as was very commonly the + case," etc. I follow Parry in using the term fog-bow. + + It may be observed that, upon the descent of the Italian guides + (whose expedition is noticed upon p. 282, and again in the + Appendix), upon July 17, 1865, the phenomenon commonly termed the + Brocken was observed. The following is the account given by the Abbe + Ame Gorret in the _Feuille d'Aoste_, October 31, 1865:--"Nous etions + sur l'epaule (the 'shoulder') quand nous remarquames un phenomene + qui nous fit plaisir; le nuage etait tres-dense du cote de + Valtornanche, c'etait serein en Suisse; nous nous vimes au milieu + d'un cercle aux couleurs de l'arc-en-ciel; ce mirage nous formait a + tous une couronne au milieu de laquelle nous voyions notre ombre." + This occurred at about 6.30 to 7 P.M., and the Italians in question + were at about the same height as ourselves--namely, 14,000 feet. + + 241 They had been travelling with, and had been engaged by, Lord F. + Douglas, and so considered him their employer, and responsible to + them. + + 242 Transcribed from the original memorandum. + + 243 Nor did I speak to them afterwards, unless it was absolutely + necessary, so long as we were together. + + 244 A portrait of Franz Andermatten is given in the engraving facing p. + 202. + + 245 To the point marked *Z* on the map. + + 246 Marked with a cross on the map. + + 247 A pair of gloves, a belt, and boot that had belonged to him, were + found. This, somehow, became publicly known, and gave rise to wild + notions, which would not have been entertained had it been also + known that the _whole_ of the boots of those who had fallen _were + off_, and were lying upon the snow near the bodies. + + 248 The three ropes have been reduced by photography to the same scale. + + 249 I was one hundred feet or more from the others whilst they were + being tied up, and am unable to throw any light on the matter. Croz + and old Peter no doubt tied up the others. + + 250 This is not the only occasion upon which M. Clemenz (who presided + over the inquiry) has failed to give up answers that he has + promised. It is greatly to be regretted that he does not feel that + the suppression of the truth is equally against the interests of + travellers and of the guides. If the men are untrustworthy, the + public should be warned of the fact; but if they are blameless, why + allow them to remain under unmerited suspicion? + + Old Peter Taugwalder is a man who is labouring under an unjust + accusation. Notwithstanding repeated denials, even his comrades and + neighbours at Zermatt persist in asserting or insinuating that he + _cut_ the rope which led from him to Lord F. Douglas. In regard to + this infamous charge, I say that he _could_ not do so at the moment + of the slip, and that the end of the rope in my possession shows + that he did not do so beforehand. There remains, however, the + suspicious fact that the rope which broke was the thinnest and + weakest one that we had. It is suspicious, because it is unlikely + that any of the four men in front would have selected an old and + weak rope when there was abundance of new, and much stronger, rope + to spare; and, on the other hand, because if Taugwalder thought that + an accident was likely to happen, it was to his interest to have the + weaker rope where it was placed. + + I should rejoice to learn that his answers to the questions which + were put to him were satisfactory. Not only was his act at the + critical moment wonderful as a feat of strength, but it was + admirable in its performance at the right time. I am told that he is + now nearly incapable for work--not absolutely mad, but with intellect + gone and almost crazy; which is not to be wondered at, whether we + regard him as a man who contemplated a scoundrelly meanness, or as + an injured man suffering under an unjust accusation. + + In respect to young Peter, it is not possible to speak in the same + manner. The odious idea that he propounded (which I believe emanated + from _him_) he has endeavoured to trade upon, in spite of the fact + that his father was paid (for both) in the presence of witnesses. + Whatever may be his abilities as a guide, he is not one to whom I + would ever trust my life, or afford any countenance. + + 251 They followed the route laid down upon the map, and on their descent + were in great peril from the fall of a _serac_. The character of the + work they undertook may be gathered from a reference to p. 100. + + 252 This, or a subsequent party, discovered a sleeve. No other traces + have been found. + + 253 See p. 48. + + 254 See p. 120. + + 255 Malte-Brun's _Annales des Voyages_, April 1869. + + 256 Peter Perrn, the well-known guide, died at Zermatt in the winter of + 1873-4. + + 257 A place on the final peak, about half-way between the "Shoulder" and + the summit. + + 258 We resume here the account of the proceedings of the Italians who + started from Breil on the 11th of July 1865. See p. 269. + + 259 The foregoing particulars were related to me by J.-A. Carrel. + + 260 The following details are taken from the account of the Abbe Ame + Gorret (published in the _Feuille d'Aoste_, Oct. 1865), who was at + Breil when the men returned. + + 261 See Appendix *E*, attempt No. 1. + + 262 These terms, as well as the others, Great Staircase, Col du Lion, + Tete du Lion, Chimney, and so forth, were applied by Carrel and + myself to the various points, in consequence of real or supposed + resemblances in the rocks to other things. A few of the terms + originated with the Author, but they are chiefly due to the + inventive genius of J.-A. Carrel. + + 263 This point is marked by the red letter *E* upon the lower of the two + outlines facing p. 44. + + 264 I have seen icicles more than a hundred feet long hanging from the + rocks near the summit of the Matterhorn. + + 265 The words of the Abbe. I imagine that he meant _comparatively easy_. + + 266 The pace of a party is ruled by that of its least efficient member. + + 267 See pp. 83-4 and pp. 90-1. + + 268 A ridge descending towards the Z'Muttgletscher. + + 269 Joseph and J.-Pierre Maquignaz alone ascended; the others had had + enough and returned. It should be observed that ropes had been + fixed, by J.-A. Carrel and others, over _all_ the difficult parts of + the mountain as high as the shoulder, _before_ the advent of these + persons. This explains the facility with which they moved over + ground which had been found very trying in earlier times. The young + woman declared that the ascent (as far as she went) was a trifle, or + used words to that effect; if she had tried to get to the same + height before 1862, she would probably have been of a different + opinion. + + 270 Cette roche granitoide parait surtout a la base ouest du pic sous le + col du Lion, tandis qu'elle ne parait pas du tout sur le flanc est, + ou elle parait passer au gneiss talqueux. + + 271 En plusieurs localites des environs, cette zone calcarifere presente + des bancs et des lentilles de dolomie, de cargueule, de gypse et de + quartzite. + + + + + + TRANSCRIBER'S NOTE + + +Italic type is marked by underscore (_), boldface by asterisk (*). + +The following changes have been made to the text: + + page 24, "fire" changed to "fir" + page 178, "Cormayeur" changed to "Courmayeur" + page 203, "regele" changed to "regale", "Pernn" changed to "Perrn" + page 243, "naturrally" changed to "naturally" + page 269, opening quote added before "That" + page 294, "crritical" changed to "critical" + page 315, period added after "47-9" + page 319, period added after "Andermatten" + page 321, period added after "Taugwalder" + +Variations in accentuation ("chalet"/"chalet"), hyphenation (e.g. +"commonplace"/"common-place", "midday"/"mid-day") and spelling +("Ortler"/"Orteler") have not been changed. + + + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN*** + + + + CREDITS + + +November 17, 2011 + + Project Gutenberg TEI edition 1 + Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Stefan Cramme, and the Online + Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + A WORD FROM PROJECT GUTENBERG + + +This file should be named 38044.txt or 38044.zip. + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + + + http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/8/0/4/38044/ + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one -- the old editions will be +renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no one +owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation (and +you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without permission +and without paying copyright royalties. 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