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diff --git a/37519.txt b/37519.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..e5e78f6 --- /dev/null +++ b/37519.txt @@ -0,0 +1,14498 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Curiousities of Great Britain: England and +Wales Delineated Vol. 1, by Thomas Dugdale + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Curiousities of Great Britain: England and Wales Delineated Vol. 1 + Historical, Entertaining & Commercial; Alphabetically + Arranged. 11 Volume set. + +Author: Thomas Dugdale + +Other: William Burnett + +Release Date: September 25, 2011 [EBook #37519] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CURIOUSITIES OF GREAT *** + + + + +Produced by Robert Cicconetti, Graeme Mackreth and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net +(This file was produced from images generously made +available by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries) + + + + + + + + +[Illustration: Frontispiece. + +_Designed & Engraved for_ Dugdales England & Wales _Delineated._] + + + + +CURIOSITIES of GREAT BRITAIN. + +ENGLAND & WALES + +Delineated. + +_Historical, Entertaining & Commercial._ + +Alphabetically arranged + +_By Thomas Dugdale. Antiquarian._ + +_assisted by WILLIAM BURNETT. CIVIL ENGINEER._ --1835-- + +[Illustration] + +Warkworth Hermitage. Northumberland. + +Drawn and Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated. _London +Published by L. Tallis. S. Jewin Street. City._ + +[Illustration: Drawn by J. Satmon + +KNARESBOROUGH CASTLE. + +Engraved by E. Mansill + +Drawn & Engraved for Dugdales England & Wales Delineated.] + +[Illustration: Drawn by J. Marchant. + +THEBERTON HOUSE THE SEAT of THOS GIBSON ESQ. + +Engraved by D. Buckle. + +Drawn & Engraved for Dugdales England & Wales Delineated.] + +[Illustration: CITY OF DURHAM, + +DURHAM. + +Drawn & Engraved for Dugdales England & Wales Delineated.] + +[Illustration: THE QUEEN'S PALACE, PIMLICO. + +_MIDDLESEX._ + +The birth place of The Prince of Wales, born, Novr 9. 1911, also of +the Princess Royal, born. Novr 21, 1810. + +Drawn & Engraved for Dugdales England & Wales Delineated.] + +[Illustration: WESTMINSTER ABBEY. + +Drawn & Engraved for Dugdales England & Wales Delineated.] + +[Illustration: YORK. + +_OLD BRIDGE OVER THE RIVER FOSS._] + +[Illustration: PENRICE CASTLE. + +_GLAMORGANSHIRE_ + +Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.] + +[Illustration: TRETWR. + +_BRECKNOCKSHIRE._ + +Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.] + +[Illustration: NEW POST OFFICE. + +_St. Martins le-Grand_ + +_LONDON._ + +Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.] + +[Illustration: NEW ROYAL EXCHANGE. + +_LONDON._ + +Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.] + +[Illustration: DUNSTABLE PRIORY CHURCH, + +(WEST FRONT.) + +BEDFORDSHIRE. + +Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.] + +[Illustration: PLYMOUTH SOUND. + +FROM MOUNT EDGCOMBE.] + +[Illustration: MANERBEER CASTLE, + +_PEMBROKESHIRE._ + +Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.] + +[Illustration: _West Tower of_ + +GOODRICH CASTLE, + +_HEREFORDSHIRE._ + +Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.] + +[Illustration: Drawn & Engraved by J. Grey] + +CARLISLE CASTLE, + +CUMBERLAND. + +[Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.] + +[Illustration: BANK OF ENGLAND. + +_LONDON._] + +[Illustration: CITY OF BRISTOL, + +_GLOUCESTERSHIRE AND SOMERSETSHIRE._ + +Among the numerous distinguished individuals to whom Bristol has had the +honour of giving birth, are Lilly, Chatterton, Mrs. Mary Robinson, +Mrs. Hannah More, Southey, Sebastian Cabot, the first discoverer of the +continent of America, & many others.] + +[Illustration: KNARESBOROUGH CASTLE, + +_YORKSHIRE._ + +About a mile down the river from this Castle, is St. Robert's Cave, the +scene of the murder committed by Eugene Aram, which was discovered +thirteen years afterwards.] + +[Illustration: BATTERSEA BRIDGE. + +_SURREY._ + +Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.] + +[Illustration: BATTLE ABBEY. + +_SUSSEX._ + +Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.] + +[Illustration: LLANTHONEY ABBEY. + +_MONMOUTHSHIRE._ + +Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.] + +[Illustration: COWBRIDGE, + +_GLAMORGANSHIRE._ + +Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.] + +[Illustration: VALE OF TAFF. + +Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.] + +[Illustration: LAUGHARNE CASTLE, + +_CAERMARTHENSHIRE._ + +Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.] + +[Illustration: RUNNEY MEAD, OR MAGNA CHARTA ISLAND. + +_NEAR EGHAM, SURREY._ + +This place is celebrated in history as the spot where the assembled +barons in 1215, obtained from King John, the grant of Magna Charta.] + +[Illustration: KIRKSTALL ABBEY, NEAR LEEDS. + +_YORKSHIRE._ + +Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.] + +[Illustration: GOLDSMITH'S HALL. + +_FOSTER LANE, CHEAPSIDE, LONDON._ + +Drawn & Engraved for DUGDALES ENGLAND & WALES Delineated.] + +[Illustration: MIDDLESEX HOSPITAL. + +Charles Street Mary-le-bone. + +This Hospital was instituted for sick & lame patients in 1745. The +present substantial building was completed in 1835.] + +[Illustration: ENGLAND & WALES] + +[Illustration:] + +[Illustration: ENGLAND & WALES + +With its Railroads & Canals.] + +[Illustration:] + +[Illustration: BEDFORDSHIRE.] + +[Illustration:] + +[Illustration:] + +[Illustration: BERKSHIRE.] + +[Illustration:] + +[Illustration: BUCKINGHAMSHIRE.] + +[Illustration: CAMBRIDGESHIRE] + +[Illustration:] + +[Illustration:] + +[Illustration: CHESHIRE] + +[Illustration: CORNWALL.] + +[Illustration:] + +[Illustration: CUMBERLAND.] + +[Illustration:] + +[Illustration: DERBYSHIRE.] + +[Illustration:] + + + + +CURIOSITIES OF GREAT BRITAIN. + +ENGLAND AND WALES DELINEATED: + +HISTORICAL, ENTERTAINING, AND COMMERCIAL. + +EXPLANATION OF THE LETTERS SUBJOINED TO THE NAMES OF PLACES. + + bo borough + chap chapelry + co county + dis district + div division + ext. p. extra parochial + ham hamlet + hun hundred + la lathe + lib liberty + m. t. market town + pa parish + pre precinct + qr quarter + ra rape + ti tithing + to township + vil village + wap wapentake + ward wardship + E. East + W. West + N. North + S. South + S.E. South-East + S.W. South-West + N.E. North-East + N.W. North-West + +E.R. York.--N.R. York.--or W.R. York ... East, North, or West Riding +of Yorkshire. + + Map| Names of Places.| County. | Number of Miles From + +--+------------------+----------+------------+---------------+ + 34|Abbas Combe pa|Somerset |Wincanton 3|Milborne Port 6| + 15|Abbenhall pa|Gloucester|Newnham 4|Mitchel Dean 1| + 33|Abberbury[A] pa|Salop |Shrewsbury 8|Melverly 3| + 42|Abberley pa|Worcester |Bewdley 6|Tenbury 11| + 14|Abberton pa|Essex |Colchester 4|Witham 12| + 42|Abberton pa|Worcester |Pershore 6|Alcester 8| + 29|Abberwick to|Northumber|Alnwick 3|Wooler 14| + 58|Abber-cwm-Hir chap|Radnor |Rhayader 6|Knighton 15| + 9|Abbey-Dore pa|Hereford |Hereford 11|Hay 14| + 17|Abbey-Holm[B] pa|Cumberland|Wigton 6|Allonby 7| + +--+------------------+----------+------------+---------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places.| Number of Miles From |Lond.|population. + +--+------------------+---------------------------+-----+-----+ + 34|Abbas Combe pa|Shaftesbury 8| 105| 448| + 15|Abbenhall pa|Monmouth 13| 116| 235| + 33|Abberbury[A] pa|Montgomery 15| 161| 1798| + 42|Abberley pa|Kidderminst 8| 125| 590| + 14|Abberton pa|Maldon 13| 47| 203| + 42|Abberton pa|Worcester 10| 103| 90| + 29|Abberwick to|Rothbury 7| 311| 135| + 58|Abber-cwm-Hir chap|Presteign 18| 186| 368| + 9|Abbey-Dore pa|Ross 16| 140| 533| + 17|Abbey-Holm[B] pa|Carlisle 17| 309| 3056| + +--+------------------+---------------------------+-----+-----+ + + +[A] ABBERBURY, or Alberbury, a parish and township, partly in the +hundreds of Cawrse and Deythur, in the county of Montgomery, and partly +in that of Ford, in the county of Salop. Warine, sheriff of this county +in the reign of Henry I., founded an abbey for black monks, a cell to +Guardmont, in Limosin, which, at the suppression of alien priories was +bestowed by Henry VI. upon the college founded by Archbishop Chiechley. +Benthall, Eyton, Rowton, Amaston, and Wollaston, are all townships of +this parish. At Glyn, in this parish, is the celebrated Old Parr's +cottage, which has undergone but little alteration since his time; it is +timber-framed, rare, and picturesque, within view of Rodney's Pillar on +Bredden Hill, in Montgomeryshire. In Wollaston Chapel is a brass plate, +with his portrait thus inscribed: "The old, old, very old man, Thomas +Parr, was born at the Glyn, in the township of Wennington, within the +chapelry of Great Wollaston, and parish of Alberbury, in the county of +Salop, in 1483. He lived in the reigns of ten kings and queens of +England, viz. King Edward IV., King Edward V., King Richard III., King +Henry VII., King Henry VIII., King Edward VI., Queen Mary, Queen +Elizabeth, King James I., and Charles I.; he died in London, (sixteen +years after his presentation to King Charles,) on the 13th of November, +1635, and was buried in Westminster Abbey, on the 15th of the same +month, aged one hundred and fifty-two years and nine months. At the age +of one hundred and five, he did penance in the church of Alberbury, for +criminal connexion with Catherine Milton, by whom he had offspring." + +[Sidenote: Old Parr's cottage and birth-place, who lived in the reigns +of ten kings and queens.] + +[Sidenote: Did penance at the age of 105.] + + +[B] ABBEY-HOLM is a small town in the ward of Allerdale. The original +consequence of this little town was derived from an abbey of Cistercian +monks, founded here, about the twelfth century, by Henry I. of England, +as the crown rolls imply. Its benefactors were many in number, and by +the magnificent grants and privileges with which it was endowed, it +acquired so much importance, that during the reigns of Edward I. and II. +its abbots, though not mitred, were frequently summoned to sit in +parliament. The abbey was pillaged and burnt during the incursion of +Robert Bruce, but afterwards rebuilt with great magnificence; few +vestiges, however, of its monastic buildings now remain. From the ruins +the Parochial Chapel was formed, and there yet stands a part of the +church in its original form. During the reign of Henry VIII. the abbey +was chiefly dilapidated; the church continued in good condition till the +year 1600, when the steeple, one hundred and fourteen feet high, +suddenly fell down, and by its fall destroyed great part of the chancel. +Its total ruin was nearly accomplished by an accidental fire five years +afterwards. This fire took place on April 18, 1604, and was occasioned +by a servant carrying a live coal into the roof of the church, to search +for an iron chisel; the boisterous wind blew the coal out of his hand +into a daw's nest, by which the whole was ignited, and within less than +three hours it consumed both the body of the chancel and the whole +church, except the south side of the low church, which was saved by +means of a stone vault. Almost due-west from Abbey-Holm, in a strong +situation near the sea coast, are some remains of Wulstey Castle, a +fortress, which was erected by the abbots to secure their treasures, +books, and charters from the sudden depredations of the Scots. "In this +castle," observes Camden, "tradition reports, that the magic works of +Sir Michael Scot (or Scotus), were preserved, till they were mouldering +into dust. He professed a religious life here about the year 1290, and +became so versed in the mathematics, and other abstruse sciences, that +he obtained the character of a magician, and was believed, in that +credulous age, to have performed many miracles." The story of Michael +Scot forms a beautiful episode in Scott's "Lay of the Last Minstrel," +the notes to which furnish some curious information respecting that +extraordinary personage. Sir Michael Scot, of Balwearie, we are told, +flourished during the thirteenth century, and was one of the ambassadors +sent to bring the Maid of Norway to Scotland, upon the death of +Alexander III. His memory survives in many a legend; and in the south of +Scotland, any work of great labour and antiquity is ascribed either to +the agency of auld Michael, of Sir William Wallace, or the devil. The +following are amongst the current traditions concerning Michael +Scot:--He was chosen, it is said, to go upon an embassy, to obtain from +the King of France satisfaction for certain piracies committed by his +subjects upon those of Scotland. Instead of preparing a new equipage and +splendid retinue, he evoked a fiend in the shape of a huge black horse, +mounted upon his back, and forced him to fly through the air towards +France. When he arrived at Paris, he tied his horse to the gate of the +palace, and boldly delivered his message. An ambassador with so little +of the pomp and circumstance of diplomacy was not received with much +respect, and the king was about to return a contemptuous refusal to his +demand, when Michael besought him to suspend his resolution till he had +seen his horse stamp three times: the first stamp shook every steeple in +Paris, and caused all the bells to ring; the second threw down three of +the towers of the palace; and the infernal steed had lifted up his hoof +to give the third stamp, when the king rather chose to dismiss Michael, +with the most ample concessions, than to stand to the probable +consequences. Another time, it is said that, while residing at the tower +of Oakwood, upon the Ettrick, about three miles above Selkirk, having +heard of the fame of a sorceress, called the Witch of Falsehope, who +lived on the opposite side of the river, Michael went one morning to put +her skill to the test, but was disappointed by her positively denying +any knowledge of the necromantic art. In his discourse with her, he laid +his wand inadvertently on the table which the hag observing, suddenly +snatched it up and struck him with it. Feeling the force of the charm, +he rushed out of the house; but as it had conferred on him the external +appearance of a hare, his servant, who waited without, hallooed upon the +discomfited wizard his own greyhounds, and pursued him so close, that, +in order to obtain a moment's breathing to reverse the charm, Michael, +after a very fatiguing course, was fain to take refuge in his own common +sewer. + + _Fair_, October 29, for horses and horned cattle. + +[Sidenote: The Abbey destroyed by the accidental firing of a daw's +nest.] + +[Sidenote: Michael Scot, the magician.] + +[Sidenote: Scottish legends.] + +[Sidenote: The fiend horse.] + +[Sidenote: French King's concession.] + +[Sidenote: The witch of Falsehope.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County.| Number of Miles From | + +--+--------------------+--------+-------------+-------------+ + 16|Abbots Ann pa|Hants |Andover 2|Salisbury 16| + 11|Abbots Bickington pa|Devon |Holsworthy 6|Torrington 9| + 35|Abbots Bromley[A] pa|Stafford|Uttoxeter 7|Lichfield 10| + 12|Abbotsbury[B] pa|Dorset |Dorchester 10|Bridport 10| + +--+--------------------+--------+-------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+--------------------+--------+-------------+-----+-------+ + 16|Abbots Ann pa|Stockbridge 6| 66| 562| + 11|Abbots Bickington pa|Hartland 13| 220| 77| + 35|Abbots Bromley[A] pa|tafford 11| 1129| 1621| + 12|Abbotsbury[B] pa|Weymouth 10| 127| 874| + +--+--------------------+----------------------+-------------+ + + +[A] ABBOTS BROMLEY. The hobby-horse dance, an ancient custom, was +observed here till the civil war.--Ten or twelve of the dancers carried, +on their shoulders, deers' heads, painted with the arms of Paget, Bagot, +and Welles, to whom the chief property of the town belonged. The horns +yet hang up in the church, but the custom is now discontinued. The +parish includes Bromley, Bagot's liberty, and Bromley Hurst township. +Bagot's park is the deer-park of Lord Bagot, whose seat is at +Blithefield. + + _Market, Tuesday._--_Fairs_, Tuesday before Mid-lent Sunday, May 22, + September 4, for horses and horned cattle. + +[Sidenote: Hobby-horse dance] + + +[B] ABBOTSBURY consists of a single parish, divided into three streets, +nearly in the form of the letter Y, lying in a valley surrounded and +protected by bold hills near the sea. There is a tradition that this +place was called Abodesbyry by St. Peter himself, in the infancy of +Christianity, but it is more probably supposed to have derived its name +from the magnificent abbey, originally founded here, in the early part +of the eleventh century. The ruins of the abbey (which was once large +and splendid, but is now nearly demolished), consist of a large barn, a +stable, supposed to have been the dormitory, a porch which belonged to +the conventual church, the principal entrance, a portion of the walls, +and two buildings conjectured to have been used for domestic purposes. +The barn, which, when entire, was the largest in the county, is now so +dilapidated, that only a part of it can be used. The church, in which +Orcus and his wife, the founders, were buried, is, with the exception of +the porch and a pile of ruins under some neighbouring elms, totally +destroyed; but the numerous chantries and chapels which belonged to it +sufficiently prove its ancient magnificence. On an eminence, at a short +distance from the town, stands a small building called St. Catherine's +Chapel, which is supposed to have been erected about the time of Edward +IV., and which from its height and lofty situation, serves both for a +sea and land mark. Abbotsbury Church appears to have been built a short +time before the reformation; the pulpit is pierced by musket balls, said +to have been fired by Cromwell's soldiers, at the officiating minister, +whom, however, they missed. But it is more likely to have occurred at +the time of Sir Anthony Astley Cooper's attack on the royalists, at the +siege of Sir John Strangeway's house, in 1651. About a mile to the +south-west of Abbotsbury, is the "decoy," where great quantities of wild +fowl are annually taken. But the object which most engages the attention +of strangers, in the neighbourhood of this town, is the celebrated +"swannery," which, not long since, was the property of the Earl of +Ilchester. In the open or broad space of the fleet are kept six or seven +hundred swans, formerly one thousand five hundred, including hoppers--a +small species of swans, who feed and range, and return home again. + +_Fair_, July 10, for sheep and toys. + +[Sidenote: Tradition of St. Peter] + +[Sidenote: A ruined abbey.] + +[Sidenote: St. Catherine's chapel, a sea mark.] + +[Sidenote: Wild fowl decoy, and swannery.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From + +--+---------------------+----------+--------------+---------------+ + 11|Abbotsham m.t.& pa|Devon |Bideford 2| Torrington 7| + 44|Abbotside, H.&Low pa|N.R. York |Askrigg 0| Middleham 7| + 34|Abbotts Isle pa|Somerset |Ilminster 4| Ilchester 11| + 11|Abbotts Kerswell pa|Devon |Newton Bush 2| Totness 7| + 18|Abbotts Langley[A] pa|Herts |St. Albans 4| Watford 4| + 34|Abbots Leigh pa|Somerset |Bristol 3| Bedminster 3| + 15|Abbotsley pa|Hunts |St. Neots 4| Huntingdon 12| + 42|Abbots Morton pa|Worcester |Evesham 4| Alcester 8| + 12|Abbots Stoke pa|Dorset |Beaminster 3| Crewkerne 10| + 16|Abbotston pa|Hants |Alresford 4| Basingstoke 12| + 33|Abdon pa|Salop |Ludlow 9| Bridgenorth 11| + 53|Abenbury Fecham to|Flintshire|Wrexham 4| Chester 10| + 52|Abenbury Vawr to|Denbigh |Wrexham 3| Llangollen 12| + 50|Aber[B] pa|Caernavon |Bangor 6| Aberconway 9| + 51|Aberaeron to|Cardigan |Aberystwith 17| Lampeter 14| + 51|Aberarth vil & pa|Cardigan |Lampeter 14| Aberystwith 14| + 56|Aber Bechan to|Montgomery|Newtown 2| Montgomery 7| + 52|Abercwhiler to|Denbigh |Denbigh 4| St. Asaph 3| + 54|Aberavon [C] bo. & pa|Glamorgan |Neath 6| Bridgend 14| + 48|Aberbaidon am|Brecknock |Abergavenny 5| Crickhowel 3| + 50|Aberconway [D] m.t.|Caernarvon|Bangor 15| Llanrwst 12| + +--+---------------------+----------+--------------+---------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+---------------------+-------------------------+-----+---------+ + 11|Abbotsham m.t.& pa|Barnstaple 10| 204| 386| + 44|Abbotside, H.&Low pa|Richmond 12| 208| 762| + 34|Abbotts Isle pa|Taunton 10| 133| 380| + 11|Abbotts Kerswell pa|Torquay 6| 189| 442| + 18|Abbotts Langley[A] pa|Hemel Hemp 6| 17| 1980| + 34|Abbots Leigh pa|Keynsham 9| 116| 360| + 15|Abbotsley pa|Potton 4| 58| 369| + 42|Abbots Morton pa|Pershore 6| 99| 236| + 12|Abbots Stoke pa| Bridport 6| 143| 587| + 16|Abbotston pa|Winchester 9| 57| 248| + 33|Abdon pa|Ch. Stretton 9| 153| 170| + 53|Abenbury Fecham to|Mold 7| 187| 111| + 52|Abenbury Vawr to|Mold 8| 187| 214| + 50|Aber[B] pa|Caernarvon 15| 240| 552| + 51|Aberaeron to|Cardigan 23| 208| ...| + 51|Aberarth vil & pa|Tregaron 13| 222| 976| + 56|Aber Bechan to|Welsh Pool 11| 178| ...| + 52|Abercwhiler to|Caerwys 4| 208| 487| + 54|Aberavon [C] bo. & pa|Swansea 11| 192| 572| + 48|Aberbaidon am|Brecon 14| 148| 1781| + 50|Aberconway [D] m.t.| Caernarvon 24| 236| 1245| + +--+---------------------+------------------------+------+---------+ + + +[A] ABBOTTS LANGLEY. Before the Conquest, and till the dissolution of +the monasteries, this place was in the possession of the abbots of St. +Albans. About the time of Henry I., Nicholas Breakspear, a native of +this place, was advanced to the rank of cardinal, and at length became +pope, by the title of Adrian IV.; being the only Englishman that ever +attained that dignity. He died, not without suspicion of poison, in +1158. + +[Sidenote: Englishman made Pope.] + + +[B] ABER (which signifies the mouth of a river, port, or harbour) is +situated on the river Gwyngregyr, which here discharges itself into the +Irish Sea. The native Welsh princes had a palace at this place, some +remains of which are shewn as the residence of Llewelyn ap Griffith. It +is one of the ferries to Anglesea, and a convenient place from which to +visit the formidable Penmaen Mawr mountain. The passage from hence +across the Laven Sands to Beaumaris is by no means safe, as the sands +frequently shift; but the large bell of this village is constantly rung +in foggy weather, in the hope that its sound may serve to direct those +whom imperious necessity obliges to cross under all disadvantages. Two +miles from this pleasing village, following the banks of the stream, +which flows through highly picturesque scenery, there is a most romantic +glen, and a very fine waterfall; the upper part of this cataract is +sometimes broken into three or four divisions, by the rugged force of +the impending cliff, but the lower one forms a broad sheet, and descends +about sixty feet, in a very grand style. + + _Mail_ arrives 3.15 A.M., departs 9.32 P.M.--_Inn_, Bull. + +[Sidenote: Ferry to Anglesea.] + +[Sidenote: Laven sands dangerous. The bell constantly tolled in foggy +weather.] + +[Sidenote: Romantic glen, and waterfall.] + + +[C] ABERAVON is situated at the mouth of the river Avon, on Swansea Bay, +and has a harbour for small vessels. Although no charter exists for a +market, one has been held here, more than a century past. There is a +ridiculous belief, amongst the people of this place, that every +Christmas Day, and that day alone, a large salmon presents himself in +the river, and allows himself to be caught and handled by any one who +chooses; but it would be considered an act of impiety to detain him. + + _Fair_, April 30. + +[Sidenote: Singular account of a Salmon.] + + +[D] ABERCONWAY is an ancient fortified town, beautifully situated upon +the estuary of the river Conway. The town is nearly of a triangular +shape, and is thought by some to have been the Conovium of the Romans. +The annals of this place commence no earlier than with the history of +its castle, which was erected in 1284, by command of Edward I., as a +security against the insurrections of the Welsh. Soon after its +erection, the royal founder was besieged in it, and the garrison almost +reduced by famine to surrender, when they were extricated by the arrival +of a fleet with provision. At the commencement of the civil wars, it +was garrisoned on behalf of the king, by Dr. John Williams, Archbishop +of York. In 1645 he gave the government of the castle to his nephew, +William Hookes. Two years after, Prince Rupert superseded the Archbishop +in the command of North Wales. He endeavoured to obtain redress from the +king, but failed. Enraged at this injury, he joined Mytton, and assisted +in the reduction of the place. The town was taken by storm, August 15, +1646, but the castle did not surrender till November 10. This fortress +remained in tranquillity till a grant was made of it, by King Charles, +to the Earl of Conway and Kilulta; when he had scarcely obtained +possession, before he ordered an agent to remove the timber, iron, lead, +and other materials. It was held on lease, by Owen Holland, Esq. from +the crown, at an annual rent of six shillings and eightpence, and a dish +of fish to Lord Holland, as often as he passed through the town. Thus, +unprotected, it has suffered material injuries from wind and weather, +and is reduced to a state of rapid decay. The ruins are remarkably +picturesque, and very extensive. The town was surrounded by high massive +walls, twelve feet thick, strengthened at intervals by twenty-four +circular and semi-circular towers; these, with the four principal +gateways, remain in tolerable preservation. There are scarcely any +remains of the Cistercian Abbey, founded by Llewelyn ap Jorwerth, in +1185. The church contains a few modern monuments, belonging to the +family of the Wynnes, formerly of this place. The font appears ancient; +it is composed of black marble, curiously carved, and supported by a +cluster of pilasters, standing upon a pedestal. In Castle Street is a +very old house, called the college, which has a singular window, +decorated with several coats of arms of the Stanley family. A day school +is also kept in an ancient mansion, called Plas Mawr, situated near the +market place, which was erected in 1585, by Robert Wynne, Esq. of +Gwyder. The river Conway rises out of Llyn Conway, at the south +extremity of the county, in the mountains of Penmachno. The ferry is of +importance, as it lies upon one of the great roads from London to +Ireland, but is justly considered a dangerous passage, and many are the +accidents which have occurred. On Christmas Day, 1806, the boat +conveying the Irish mail coach, was lost, and all the passengers, +including the coachman and guard, were drowned, except two. At the +Ferry-house a noble bay is formed where the tide enters the river. In +this view, indeed, there are all the ingredients of a sublime and +beautiful landscape. Few rivers, in England or Wales, in so short a +course as twenty-nine miles, present so great a variety of beautiful +scenery. Below Luna Hall, the falls of the Conway exhibit a noble +cataract, about fifty feet; the stream of water, shooting directly from +one aperture in the solid rock to a considerable distance, descends into +a rocky basin, surrounded by hanging woods. One mile below this town, at +Trefriw, the river becomes navigable, and contributes to the supply of +the surrounding county. In Conway town there still exists a pearl +fishery, and a chain suspension bridge has been recently erected in lieu +of a dangerous ferry. The vale of Conway teems with interesting objects. +Upon the west side is the abrupt termination of the Snowdon chain, down +the declivities of which, through innumerable chasms, fissures, and +channels, rush the superfluous waters of the lakes above, to mingle with +the parent ocean. The principal employment of the poor, in this +neighbourhood, is gathering the different species of fuci, commonly +called sea-wreck, thrown up by the tide, or growing upon the breakers. +This wreck they put into a kind of square fireplace, made upon the sand, +and heat it till it becomes a liquid and forms a cake; when further +baked or burnt it resembles cinders, and is called barilla or impure +fossil alkali; in this state it is sold to manufacturers of soap and +glass. + + _Market_, Friday.--_Fairs_, March 26, April 30, June 20, August 19, + September 16, October 20, and November 15.--Inns, Harp, Bull's Head, + and White Lien.--_Mail_ arrives 2 A.M., departs 10-3/4 P.M. + +[Sidenote: The Conovium of the Romans.] + +[Sidenote: Town taken by storm, in 1646.] + +[Sidenote: Curious tenure--6s. 8d. and a dish of fish.] + +[Sidenote: Cistercian Abbey, founded by Llewelyn ap Jorwerth in 1185.] + +[Sidenote: The ferry considered dangerous; loss of the Irish mail and 14 +passengers, in 1806.] + +[Sidenote: Falls of the Conway present a noble cataract, shooting from a +solid rock.] + +[Sidenote: Pearl fishery and suspension bridge.] + +[Sidenote: Manufactory of barilla.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From + +--+------------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ + 54|Aberdare[A] pa|Glamorg |Mer. Tydvil 6|Bridgend 18| + 50|Aberdaron pa|Caernarvon|Pwllheli 16|Nevin 16| + 54|Aberddaw, East ham|Glamorg |Cowbridge 5|Bridgend 10| + 55|Aberdyfi to|Merion |Aberystwith 9|Towyn 5| + 58|Aberedwy[B] pa|Radnor |Builth 4|Hay 12| + 56|Abererch pa|Caernarvon|Pwllheli 3|Crickieth 8| + 45|Aberford[C] m.t. & pa|W.R. York |Tadcaster 6|Leeds 8| + 47|Aberffraw pa|Anglesea |Bangor 17|Newborough 6| + 26|Abergavenny[D] m.t. & pa|Monmouth |Monmouth 17|Crickhowell 7| + +--+------------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|population. + +--+------------------------+------------------------+-----+--------+ + 54|Aberdare[A] pa|Brecon 20| 182| 3961| + 50|Aberdaron pa|Bardsey Isle 5| 258| 1389| + 54|Aberddaw, East ham|Llandaff 12| 179| ...| + 55|Aberdyfi to|Machynlleth 9| 217| ...| + 58|Aberedwy[B] pa|Radnor 13| 169| 344| + 56|Abererch pa|Nevin 8| 234| 1365| + 45|Aberford[C] m.t. & pa|Ferry Bridge 9| 186| 925| + 47|Aberffraw pa|Holyhead 12| 258| 1367| + 26|Abergavenny[D] m.t. & pa|Usk 9| 145| 4230| + +--+------------------------+------------------------+-----+---------+ + + +[A] ABERDARE. _Fairs_, for cattle, April 19, Whit-Monday, November 14. + + +[B] ABEREDWY. This delightful village derived its name from its +situation, near the junction of the River Wye and Edwy. Nothing in +nature can exceed the beauty of the neighbouring scenery. The Edwy +descends through lofty walls of rock; in some places, broken into crags, +which frightfully overhang the abyss. Near the place are the ruins of a +castle, the retreat of the last native Welsh Prince, Llewelyn ap +Gruffydd. The object of Llewelyn's journey to Aberedwy was to consult +the chief persons of the district, upon the best means of successfully +opposing the King of England, then invading Wales. On his arrival he +found himself disappointed. Instead of meeting with friends, he was +surrounded by the enemy. Edmund Mortimer and John Gyfford, acquainted +with his route, marched from Herefordshire, with their troops to meet +him. The enemy were numerous--resistance was in vain--Llewelyn withdrew +to Builth. The mountains being covered with snow, he caused the shoes of +his horse to be reversed, in order to baffle pursuit, but the +treacherous _smith_ betrayed him. Llewelyn broke down the bridge of +Builth, but was closely followed by the English forces, who fruitlessly +attempted to gain it. Sir Elias Walwyn crossed the river, with a +detachment, about eight miles below, at a place called Little Tom's +Ferry Boat, and coming unexpectedly on the Welsh army, routed them. +Llewelyn himself was attacked and slain, unarmed, in a narrow valley, +not two hundred yards from the scene of action. Adam Francton, the +murderer of Llewelyn, took no notice of his victim, but joined in the +pursuit of the Welsh. Returning with the view of plundering the slain, +he discovered the wounded person was no other than the Prince of Wales; +for on stripping him, he found a letter in cipher and his privy seal. +The brutal Francton, overjoyed that the Welsh prince had fallen into his +hands, cut off his head, and sent it to the King of England, and thus +perished the last native Prince of Wales. + +[Sidenote: Ruined castle--the retreat of Llewelyn, the last native +Prince of Wales.] + +[Sidenote: His horses shoes reversed.] + +[Sidenote: Betrayed by his smith.] + +[Sidenote: His army routed, and himself slain.] + +[Sidenote: His head sent to the King of England.] + + +[C] ABERFORD is situated upon the River Cock, on the great northern +road, on the banks of which river was fought the famous battle of +Towton, in 1461, so called from a village in the vicinity. The town +consists of a long straggling street, in the north of which are the +remains of a Norman fortification, called Castle Carey; and the whole is +in the line of the ancient Roman road. This town is curiously situated, +as respects township: the west side is in Aberford-cum-Parlington; the +east of the same end is Lotherton-cum-Aberford, and the north of the +river is Aberford alone. + + _Mail_ arrives 4.11 P.M., departs 8.46 A.M.--_Inn_, + Swan. + +[Sidenote: Here the famous battle of Towton was fought.] + + +[D] ABERGAVENNY, (the ancient Gobanium of the Romans,) and its environs, +have strong claims to the traveller's attention. Its castle and +delightful terrace overlook the rich vale of Usk; its church, abounding +in costly sculptured tombs, its beautifully variegated mountains, all +conspire to render this place particularly attractive. This town was +once fortified, and many portions of the work remain, particularly +Tudor's Gate. The western entrance is furnished with two portcullises, +and remarkable for the beautifully composed landscape seen through it. +The style of building which forms the remains of this fortress marks its +origin to have been subsequent to the Norman epoch. Excursions are +frequently made to Blaenavon Iron Works, about six miles distant, which +employ upwards of four thousand men. The mountainous territory +containing these mineral treasures of iron, was demised by the crown to +the Earl of Abergavenny, and is held under a lease by Hill and Co. A +principal excursion from Abergavenny is that which leads northwards to +Llanthony Abbey, a majestic ruin, seated in a deep recess of the black +mountains, at the very extremity of Monmouthshire. Abergavenny is a +place of much resort, being the thoroughfare from the west of Wales to +Bath, Bristol, and Gloucestershire. Its principal manufacture is +flannel, and its annual fairs for cattle are well attended. + + _Mail_ arrives 2 P.M., departs 11 A.M.--INNS, Angel, and + Greyhound.--_Bankers_, Hill and Co., draw upon Esdaile and + Co.,--Jones and Co., draw upon Williams and Co.--_Fairs_, May 14, + lean cattle and sheep; 1st Monday after Trinity, linen and woollen + cloths; September 25, horses, hogs, and flannel.--_Market_ Tuesday. + +[Sidenote: Gobanium of the Romans.] + +[Sidenote: Tudor's Gate.] + +[Sidenote: Blaenavon Iron Works. 4000 men employed.] + +[Sidenote: Llanthony Abbey, a majestic ruin in the black mountains.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County | Number of Miles From + +--+------------------------+----------+--------------+---------------+ + 26|Abergavenny hun|Monmouth | ... | ... | + 52|Abergele m.t. & pa|Denbigh |St. Asaph 7|Holywell 17| + 49|Abergorlech chap|Caermar |Llandilo Var 7|Lampeter 9| + 49|Abergwilley to & pa|Caermar |Caermar 2|Llandilo Var 15| + 56|Aberhafesp pa|Montgomery|Newton, 3|Llanydloes 11| + 56|Aberhaly to|Montgomery|Llanfair 6|Newton 5| + 49|Abermarles to|Caermar |Llandovery 7|Llangadock 3| + 48|Aberlyfni ham|Brecknock |Hay 4|Brecon 11| + 49|Abernant pa|Caermar |Caermar 4|Llaugharne 10| + 54|Aberpergwm chap|Glamorg |Neath 10|Brecon 20| + 56|Aber-Rhiw pa|Montgomery|Welsh Pool 5|Montgomery 4| + 51|Aber-Porth pa|Cardigan |Cardigan 7|Newcastle 9| + 48|Aberyskir pa|Brecknock |Brecon 4|Llandovery 16| + 51|Aberystwith[A] m.t. & pa|Cardigan |Tregaron 15|Machynlleth 18| + 26|Aberystwith pa & chap|Monmouth |Abergaven 7|Crickhowell 7| + 4|Abingdon[B] m.t.|Berks |Oxford 6|Wallingford 11| + +--+------------------------+----------+--------------+---------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+------------------------+-------------------------+---------------+ + 26|Abergavenny hun|Monmouth | ... | ... | 30818| + 52|Abergele m.t. & pa|Denbigh |Aberconway 12| 224| 2506| + 49|Abergorlech chap|Caermar |Caermar 14| 209| ...| + 49|Abergwilley to & pa|Caermar |Newcastle 16| 214| 2675| + 56|Aberhafesp pa|Montgomery|Llanfair 10| 180| 535| + 56|Aberhaly to|Montgomery|Montgomery 10| 180| ...| + 49|Abermarles to|Caermar |Lampeter 14| 198| ...| + 48|Aberlyfni ham|Brecknock |Builth 12| 160| 100| + 49|Abernant pa|Caermar |Newcastle 11| 222| 654| + 54|Aberpergwm chap|Glamorg |Merthyr Tyd 13| 188| ...| + 56|Aber-Rhiw pa|Montgomery|Newtown 9| 172| 2429| + 51|Aber-Porth pa|Cardigan |Lampeter 24| 235| 485| + 48|Aberyskir pa|Brecknock |Builth 14| 173| 110| + 51|Aberystwith[A] m.t. & pa|Cardigan |Aberllelwyn 5| 208| 4128| + 26|Aberystwith pa & chap|Monmouth |Pontypool 8| 153| 5992| + 4|Abingdon[B] m.t.|Berks |Wantage 10| 56| 5259| + +--+-----------------------+-----------+--------------+-----+---------+ + + +[A] ABERYSTWITH, a market town and seaport in the hundred of Glenaur +Glynn, and also a township in the parish of Llanbadarn Vawr. It is +situated at the confluence of the rivers Ystwith and Rhyddol, at which +the former falls into the sea in the bay of Cardigan. The building of a +castle, of which some vestiges remain, is attributed to Edward I. It +stands on a craggy eminence projecting into the sea at the west of the +town, and affords a magnificent view of the whole line of Welsh coast +within the bay of Cardigan. The streets are steep and uneven.--The +houses, which are principally formed of dark slate, present a very +singular appearance. For some years past its celebrity, as a summer +retreat and bathing-place, has been annually increasing, which is +greatly contributed to by the beauty of the neighbourhood, and the +commanding prospects around. The roads to it have been made excellent, +and the customary amusements of plays and assemblies during the season +add to the attractions for summer visitants. There was formerly a +herring fishery, and the practice of fishing is still carried on with +considerable advantage by the natives. About seven miles north of +Aberystwith, on the sea coast, a considerable extent of land, has, by +drainage, been recovered; twelve miles of embankment have been formed; +and two navigable cuts, with a road of three miles and a stone bridge +completed. + + _Mail_ arrives 7 A.M. departs 5 P.M.--_Fairs_, 1st Monday in May and + November, chiefly for hiring servants.--_Bankers_, W. Davis and Co., + draw on Esdaile and Co.--_Inns_, Gogerddon Arms, Old Lion, and + Talbot.--_Markets_, Monday and Saturday. + +[Sidenote: Fine bathing place.] + +[Sidenote: Twelve miles of embankment.] + + +[B] ABINGDON, at the very edge of the county of Berkshire, was called +Shovesham, by the Anglo-Saxons, until the foundation of the abbey, from +which period it began to assume the name of Abbandeen, or the Town of +the Abbey. This monastery, the monks of which were Benedictines, was +founded by Cissa, an Anglo-Saxon monarch, in 675. During the reign of +Alfred it was demolished by the Danes, and remained in ruins till King +Edgar partly restored it, in 954. Ethelwold, the abbot at that time, +erected and embellished the church, and his successors contributed to +its increase. After the Conquest, the wealth and grandeur of the abbey +were equal to any similar foundation in England. William the Conqueror +kept Easter in the abbey, A.D. 1084; and here was educated his youngest +son, Henry, surnamed Beauclerc, afterwards King Henry I., in whose +reign, one of the most eminent characters who received sepulture within +the abbey, was the celebrated Jeffery of Monmouth, author of the British +History,--a work, from which some of our best poets have derived +materials for their sublime compositions. Shakspeare's Lear, and +Milton's Comus, were both supplied from Jeffery's history. He flourished +in the reign of Henry I. Among the natives of Abingdon, whose talents +have rendered their possessors eminent, was Sir John Mason, a statesman +of the sixteenth century. His memory is the more worthy to be revered, +because, from a very obscure origin, his genius and perseverance +advanced him to the rank of privy-counsellor, ambassador to France, and +chancellor of the University of Oxford. His father was a cow-herd and +his mother, sister to one of the abbey monks, who attended to his early +tuition, and sent him to Oxford, where he became a fellow of All Souls' +college. While in this situation, the liveliness of his temper +occasioned him to be chosen to compliment Henry VIII. on his visit to +the University, in the year 1523, which being executed in a most +graceful manner, engaged the favour of the monarch, who promoted him to +the honourable offices above-mentioned. He died in 1566, and was buried +in St. Paul's cathedral. + + _Mail_ arrives 2.49 A.M., departs 12.10 A.M.--_Fairs_, 1st Monday in + Lent, May 6, June 20, August 6, September 19, cattle; Monday before + Old Michaelmas, statute, and December 11, horses and + cattle.--_Bankers_, Knapp and Co., draw on Williams and Co.--_Inns_, + Crown and Thistle, and Queen's Arms.--_Markets_, Monday and Friday. + +[Sidenote: Monastery of Benedictine monks.] + +[Sidenote: William the Conqueror kept Easter, and his son was educated +here. Jeffery of Monmouth buried in the abbey.] + +[Sidenote: Sir J. Mason, born here--his father a cow-herd.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County | Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------------+----------+--------------+-----------------+ + 37|Abinger pa|Surrey |Dorking 4|Guildford 10| + 15|Abinghall pa|Gloucester|Newnham 6|Mitchel Dean 1| + 28|Abington pa|Northam |Northam 2|Wellingboro 9| + 6|Abington, Gt.& Lit. pa|Cambridge |Linton 3|Cambridge 9| + 6|Abington in the Clay pa|Cambridge |Royston 5|Potton 7| + 23|Ab Kettleby pa|Leicester |Melton Mow 3|Leicester 16| + 15|Ablington ti|Gloucester|Fairford 5|Cirencester 7| + 10|Abney ham|Derby |Tideswell 5|Sheffield 14| + 49|Above Sawdde ham|Caermar |Llangadock 1|Llandovery 7| + 22|Above Town div|Lancashire|Garstang 11|Burton 11| + 22|Abram to|Lancashire|Wigan 4|Bolton 9| + 15|Abson with Wick chap|Gloucester|Bristol 8|Sodbury 5| + 21|Abthorp chap|Northam |Towcester 3|Brackley 9| + 54|Aburthin pa|Glamorg |Llantrissant 8|Bridgend 7| + 24|Aby pa|Lincoln |Alford 2|Louth 9| + 46|Acaster Malbis pa|W.R. York |York 4|Selby 8| + 46|Acaster Selby to|W.R. York | ... 5| ... 7| + 22|Accrington, New to|Lancaster |Blackburn 4|Haslingden 5| + 22|Accrington, Old chap|Lancaster | ... 6| ... 4| + 30|Achurch pa|Northam |Thrapston 4|Oundle 4| + 43|Acklam pa|N.R. York |New Malton 6|Gt. Driffield 15| + 44|Acklam chap|N.R. York |Yarm 5|Stockton 3| + 28|Acklington to|Northum |Alnwick 8|Morpeth 13| + 45|Ackton to|W.R. York |Pontefract 3|Wakefield 5| + 45|Ackworth[A] pa|W.R. York | ... 3| ... 7| + +--+-----------------------+----------+--------------+-----------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------------+-------------------------+-----+-----------+ + 37|Abinger pa|Ockley 5| 2| 767| + 15|Abinghall pa|Monmouth 12| 118| 235| + 28|Abington pa|Moulton 3| 67| 155| + 6|Abington, Gt. & Lit. pa|Newmarket 12| 50| 594| + 6|Abington in the Clay pa|Cambridge 15| 42| 259| + 23|Ab Kettleby pa|Loughboro 13| 108| 331| + 15|Ablington ti|Northleach 7| 85| 103| + 10|Abney ham|Chapel-Frith 8| 164| 112| + 49|Above Sawdde ham|Llandilo Var 8| 195| 803| + 22|Above Town div|KirkbyLons 15| 240| 591| + 22|Abram to|Chorley 11| 197| 511| + 15|Abson with Wick chap|Marshfield 4| 107| 824| + 21|Abthorp chap|Banbury 15| 63| 477| + 54|Aburthin pa|Cowbridge 1| 173| ...| + 24|Aby pa|Horncastle 12| 142| 204| + 46|Acaster Malbis pa|Tadcaster 8| 190| 707| + 46|Acaster Selby to| ... 8| 190| 201| + 22|Accrington, New to|Burnley 8| 208| 4960| + 22|Accrington, Old chap| ... 6| 208| 1323| + 30|Achurch pa|Kettering 12| 73| 239| + 43|Acklam pa|York 14| 210| 827| + 44|Acklam chap|Guisboro 9| 244| 371| + 28|Acklington to|Rothbury 13| 300| 285| + 45|Ackton to|Leeds 9| 174| 51| + 45|Ackworth[A] pa| ... 11| 174| 1660| + +--+-----------------------+-------------------------+-----+-----------+ + + +[A] ACKWORTH is a parish and township, in the upper division of Osgold +Cross Wapentake, nominally divided into higher and lower Ackworth. It is +celebrated for its Quakers' School, which was purchased in 1777, with +eighty-five acres of land, from the trustees of the Foundling Hospital, +and rendered a seminary for the children of the more humble class of +Friends. The number of pupils, is one hundred and eighty boys, and one +hundred and twenty girls. + +[Sidenote: Quakers' school.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County | Number of Miles From + +--+------------------------+----------+-------------+---------------+ + 27|Acle[A] m. t. & pa|Norfolk |Norwich 11|Yarmouth 9| + 45|Acomb pa|W.R. York |York 2|Wetherby 10| + 29|Acomb East to|Northumb |Corbridge 15|Aldston Moor 9| + 29|Acomb West to|Northumb | ... 5| 18| + 17|Aconbury[B] chap|Hereford |Hereford 4|Ross 9| + 21|Acrise pa|Kent |Folkstone 4|Dover 8| + 7 |Acton to & pa|Chester |Nantwich 2|Tarporley 9| + 7 |Acton to|Chester |Northwich 4|Frodsham 7| + 52|Acton to|Denbigh |Wrexham 1|Holt 5| + 25|Acton pa|Middlesex |Harrow 8|Brentford 3| + 29|Acton to|Northumb |Alnwick 8|Rothbury 8| + 36|Acton pa|Suffolk |Lavenham 3|Sudbury 3| + 42|Acton Beauchamp pa|Worcester |Bromyard 4|Worcester 11| + 33|Acton Burnell[C] to & pa|Salop |Wenlock 7|Shrewsbury 7| + +--+------------------------+----------+-------------+---------------+ + |Dist. | + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond. |Population + +--+------------------------+------------------------+------+------+ + 27|Acle[A] m. t. & pa|Loddon 8| 121| 820| + 45|Acomb pa|New Malton 20| 201| 882| + 29|Acomb East to|Hexham 11| 275| 36| + 29|Acomb West to| ... 3| 275| 523| + 17|Aconbury[B] chap|Ledbury 14| 130| 163| + 21|Acrise pa|Canterbury 11| 67| 194| + 7 |Acton to & pa|Middlewich 11| 166| 3928| + 7 |Acton to|Chester 15| 177| 309| + 52|Acton to| ... 9| 190| 215| + 25|Acton pa|Uxbridge 10| 5| 2453| + 29|Acton to|Morpeth 10| 300| 91| + 36|Acton pa|Bildeston 8| 57| 565| + 42|Acton Beauchamp pa|Ledbury 10| 122| 239| + 33|ACTON Burnell[C] to & pa|Ch. Stretton 7| 155| 381| + +--+------------------------+------------------------+------+------+ + + +[A] ACLE. _Market_, Thursday.--_Fair_, Wednesday before Michaelmas day. + + +[B] ACONBURY. At this place a nunnery of the order of St. Augustine was +founded by Margery, wife of Walter de Lacey, in the reign of King John. +The Cliffords were large benefactors to this house, which, at the +dissolution, possessed _L75. 7s. 6d._ per annum. There are some remains +yet standing, occupied as a farm house. On the summit of Aconbury Hill, +a bold and extensive eminence, well wooded, and commanding a charming +view over the adjacent county, are traces of a large encampment. + +[Sidenote: Nunnery.] + + +[C] ACTON BURNELL is celebrated for the remains of an ancient castle, +founded by Robert Burnell, bishop of Bath and Wells, a man of eminent +abilities, first treasurer, and afterwards chancellor of England, who +was much employed by King Edward I. in Welsh affairs. He died at +Berwick, in 1292, and was buried in the cathedral at Wells. The castle +is a quadrangular building, with a square tower at each corner. The hall +in which King Edward I. held his parliament, in 1283, was 183 feet long, +by 41 broad, but the gable ends only remain. The Statutum de +Mercatoribus enacted here, is from that circumstance better known as the +Statute of Acton Burnell. The successor of the bishop, at the castle, +was Sir Edward Burnell, son of Philip Burnell and Maud, daughter of +Richard Arundel. He served in many actions in Scotland, under Edward I., +and always appeared in great splendour, attended by a chariot decked +with banners of his arms. He was summoned to parliament from the fifth +to the eighth year of Edward the second's reign, and died in 1315. In +1346, the castle came into the possession of Nicholas Lord Burnell, who +died in 1382, and is buried in the church under an altar tomb, inlaid +with his effigy in brass. In the reign of Henry VI. the Lovell family +were in possession of this estate, which was forfeited by Lord Lovell, +in consequence of his adherence to King Richard III. Henry VII. being +seated on the throne, granted Acton Burnell, together with other estates +in this county, to Jasper Tudor, Earl of Bedford; after whose death it +reverted to the crown, and Henry VIII. granted it to Thomas Howard, Earl +of Surrey, distinguished for his valour at the battle of Flodden. Sir +Humphrey Lee, of Langley, in this parish, was created a baronet, May 3, +1620. Acton Burnell Park is now the residence of Sir Edward Joseph +Smythe, Bart. whose family have been seated here from the time of +Charles II., when Sir Edward Smythe, of Esh, in Durham, created a +baronet, Feb. 23, 1660, married the daughter and heiress of Sir Richard +Lee, Bart. of Langley. The mansion, on a verdant lawn, bordered by a +shrubbery, presents a handsome elevation of fine white stone, having a +noble Ionic portico, under which is the carriage entrance. Behind the +house is the deer park, on a finely wooded eminence, affording one of +the most beautiful prospects in the county. The chapelry of Ruckley and +Langley is in this parish. + +[Sidenote: Edward I. held his parliament here in 1283.] + +[Sidenote: Lord Burnell's effigy in brass on the altar tomb.] + +[Sidenote: The seat of Sir E.J. Smythe.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County | Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------------+----------+--------------+---------------+ + 7|Acton Grange to|Chester |Warrington 4|Northwich 10| + 15|Acton Iron pa|Gloucester|Chip. Sodbu 2|Thornbury 7| + 33|Acton Pigott chap|Salop |Much Wenlo 6|Shrewsbury 8| + 33|Acton Reynold to|Salop |Shrewsbury 8|Wem 6| + 33|Acton Round chap|Salop |Wenlock 3|Bridgenorth 6| + 33|Acton Scott pa|Salop |Ch. Stretton 4|Bish. Castle 10| + 35|Acton Trussell to & pa|Stafford |Penkridge 3|Stafford 4| + 15|Acton Turville chap|Gloucester|Tetbury 11|Chippenham 12| + 35|Adbaston pa|Stafford |Eccleshall 14|Newport 5| + 31|Adderbury East to & pa|Oxford |Banbury 3|Deddington 3| + 33|Adderley pa|Salop |Drayton 4|Whitchurch 8| + 29|Adderston to|Northumb |Beiford 3|Alnwick 12| + 17|Adforton to|Hereford |Ludlow 8|Presteign 8| + 9|Addingham pa|Cumberland|Kirk Oswald 2|Penrith 8| + 45|Addingham pa|W.R. York |Skipton 5|Ottley 8| + 37|Addington[A] pa|Surrey |Croydon 4|Westerham 10| + 5|Addington pa|Bucks |Winslow 2|Buckingham 5| + 21|Addington pa|Kent |Maidstone 7|Rochester 8| + 28|Addington, Gt to & pa|Northamp |Thrapston 4|Kettering 7| + 28|Addington, Lit to & pa|Northamp | ... 5| ... 8| + 21|Addisham pa|Kent |Wingham 3|Canterbury 6| + 45|Addle[B] to & pa|W.R. York |Leeds 5|Ottley 6| + 46|Addle-cum-Eccup to|W.R. York | 5| ... 6| + 45|Addlingfleet[C] pa|W.R. York |Snaith 11|Burton 2| + +--+-----------------------+----------+--------------+---------------+ + |Dist. + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population + +--+-----------------------+-------------------------+-----+---------+ + 7|Acton Grange to|Runcorn 5| 183| 148| + 15|Acton Iron pa|Bristol 9| 112| 1372| + 33|Acton Pigott chap|Ch. Stretton 9| 154| ... | + 33|Acton Reynold to|Drayton 12| 152| 173| + 33|Acton Round chap|Ludlow 17| 145| 203| + 33|Acton Scott pa|Ludlow 10| 155| 204| + 35|Acton Trussell to & pa|Lichfield 15| 131| 551| + 31|Acton Turville chap|Sodbury 5| 102| 236| + 35|Adbaston pa|Hodnet 7| 152| 601| + 31|Adderbury East to & pa|Aynhoe 4| 70| 2471| + 33|Adderley pa|Wem 12| 157| 468| + 29|Adderston to|Wooler 10| 319| 322| + 17|Adforton to|Knighton 8| 150| 218| + 9|Addingham pa|Aldstn Moor 12| 291| 719| + 45|Addingham pa|Keighley 5| 213| 2251| + 37|Addington[A] pa|Bromley 5| 12| 463| + 5|Addington pa|Bicester 11| 50| 74| + 21|Addington pa|Wrotham 3| 27| 206| + 28|Addington, Gt to & pa|Higam Ferrers 5| 70| 282| + 28|Addington, Lit to & pa| ... 5| 70| 264| + 21|Addisham pa|Sandwich 6| 62| 390| + 45|Addle[B] to & pa|Bradford 8| 205| 1063| + 46|Addle-cum-Eccup to| ... 8| 291| 703| + 45|Addlingfleet[C] pa||Howden 6| 170| 478| + +--+-----------------------+-------------------------+-----+---------+ + + +[A] ADDINGTON is on the borders of Kent. Addington Place, a seat erected +by Alderman Trecothick, in 1772, was purchased in 1807, for the +residence of the Archbishop of Canterbury. The manor of Addington is +held by the feudal service of finding a man to make a mess, called +Gerout, in the king's kitchen, at the coronation, and serving it up in +his own person at Westminster Hall. In the reign of William the +Conqueror, Addington appears to have been held by Tezelin, cook to the +king, which accounts for the origin of the required culinary service. +The Archbishop of Canterbury is now the claimant of the service alluded +to. Near the village is a curious cluster of tumuli, or mounds of earth +raised over the bodies of the slain, about twenty-five in number, of +inconsiderable height. One of them is nearly forty feet in diameter, two +are about half that size, and the rest very small. + +[Sidenote: Coronation custom.] + +[Sidenote: Cluster of tumuli.] + + +[B] ADDLE. The church in this town is considered to be one of the most +perfect specimens of Roman architecture remaining in England. In 1702, +the traces of an ancient Roman town, with fragments of urns, and of an +aqueduct of stone were found in the adjacent moor. + +[Sidenote: Roman architecture.] + + +[C] ADDLINGFLEET. A parish and township in the lower division of Osgold +Cross, including the townships of Fockerby, Haldenby, and Eastoft. The +village is situated very near the junction of the Trent with the Humber, +the latter river being one of the largest in the kingdom, formed by the +united waters of the Trent, Ouse, Derwent, Aire, and other minor +streams. At this part it is about a mile broad, it is the Abus of +Ptolemy. It runs towards the east, washing the port of Hull, where it +receives the river called by the same name; from thence, taking a +south-easterly direction, it expands itself into an estuary nearly seven +miles across, and mingles with the German ocean. This river, which, with +very few exceptions, receives all the waters of Yorkshire from the Ouse, +and the greater part of those from the midland counties from the Trent, +commands the inland navigation of very extensive and commercial parts of +England; namely, those of the Mersey, Dee, Ribble, Severn, Thames, and +Avon; it also forms the boundary between Yorkshire and Lincolnshire. + +[Sidenote: Boundary between Yorkshire and Lincolnshire.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County | Number of Miles From | + +--+-------------------+----------+--------------+-------------+ + 7|Adlington to|Cheshire |Macclesfield 6|Stockport 6| + 22|Adlington[A] to|Lancaster |Wigan 4|Chorley 4| + 24|Addlethorpe to & pa|Lincoln |Alford 7|Spilsby 11| + 15|Adlestrop pa|Gloucester|Stow 4|Burford 11| + 22|Admarsh chap|Lancaster |Burton 11|Kirkby Lon 15| + 5|Adstock pa|Bucks |Winslow 3|Buckingham 4| + 28|Adstone ham|Northamp |Towcester 7|Daventry 8| + 8|Advent chap|Cornwall |Camelford 2|Bodmin 10| + 45|Adwalton[B] ham|W.R. York |Bradford 4|Leeds 7| + 31|Adwell pa|Oxford |Tetsworth 2|Thame 5| + 45|Adwick-on-Dearne ch|W.R. York |Rotherham 6|Barnsley 8| + 45|Adwick pa & to|W.R. York |Doncaster 4|Thorne 10| + 12|Aff-Piddle pa|Dorset |Dorchester 9|Bere Regis 4| + 7|Agden to|Chester |Malpas 3|Whitchurch 3| + 7|Agden to|Chester |Knutsford 6|Warrington 10| + 43|Agelthorpe to|N.R. York |Middleham 3|Bedale 6| + 8|Agnes, St[C] cha|Cornwall |Truro 9|Redruth 7| + +--+-------------------+----------+--------------+-------------+ + |Dist. | + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond. |Population + +--+-------------------+-------------------------+------+------+ + 7|Adlington to|Altringham 10| 2| 1066| + 22|Adlington[A] to|Bolton 9| 264| 1082| + 24|Addlethorpe to & pa|Wainfleet 9| 134| 176| + 15|Adlestrop pa|Moreton 6| 86| 196| + 22|Admarsh chap|Garstang 12| 240| ... | + 5|Adstock pa|Bicester 11| 52| 445| + 28|Adstone ham|Brackley 10| 67| 166| + 8|Advent chap|Launceston 15| 230| 246| + 45|Adwalton[B] ham|Huddersfield 8| 192| ... | + 31|Adwell pa|Watlington 4| 41| 48| + 45|Adwick-on-Dearne ch|Doncaster 7| 167| 145| + 45|Adwick pa & to|Pontefract 9| 166| 918| + 12|Aff-Piddle pa|Blandford 12| 111| 442| + 7|Agden to|Nantwich 11| 177| 104| + 7|Agden to|Altringham 1| 179| 99| + 43|Agelthorpe to|Masham 4| 226| 188| + 8|Agnes, St[C] cha|Falmouth 14| 256| 6642| + +--+-------------------+-------------------------+------+------+ + + +[A] ADLINGTON. Through this township runs the Leeds and Liverpool Canal. +It contains several coal mines. Adlington Hall, the seat of Sir Robert +Clayton, Bart., was rebuilt about 1780; it stands in a low situation, on +the borders of an extensive park, and contains some very good pictures, +amongst which is a head of Charles I., taken after death. Ellerbeck Hall +is the seat of John Hodson, Esq. In this neighbourhood is Park Hall, the +seat of R.P. German, Esq. The inhabitants of Adlington are chiefly +employed in the cotton manufactories of the vicinity. + +[Sidenote: Seat of Sir. Robert Clayton, Bart.] + + +[B] ADWALTON formerly possessed a market which is now disused. On +Adwalton Moor, a battle was fought, in 1642, between the Earl of +Newcastle, commanding for the king, and the parliamentary general, Lord +Fairfax, in which the latter was defeated. + + _Fairs_, February 6, March 9, Easter Thursday, Thursday fortnight + after Easter, Whit-Thursday; and every second Thursday thence to + Michaelmas, for lean cattle; November 5, and December 23. + +[Sidenote: Battle fought here in 1642.] + + +[C] St. AGNES is situated on the Bristol Channel. The town and parish, +including a considerable mining district, is thickly strewed with the +cottages of the miners. It is more frequently called Lighthouse Island, +from a very high and strong light-house erected here, to warn the +mariner from the rocks, which are more numerous about this than any +other of the Scilly Islands. This building is upwards of sixty feet +high, and stands on the most elevated ground. The light is produced by +twenty-one parabolic reflectors of copper, plated with silver, and +having each an argand lamp in its focus. The reflectors are disposed of +in three clusters, of seven in each cluster, and the frame in which they +are fixed stands perpendicularly to the horizon, on a shaft united to a +machine below, which makes the whole revolve every two minutes. By this +motion the light progressively sweeps the whole horizon; and by its +gradual intermission and increase, it is readily distinguished from any +other. Its brilliancy is also extraordinary; and by these combined +efforts its benefits are greatly increased, as the seaman is at once +rendered completely sensible of his situation. This light was designed +by the ingenious Mr. Adam Walker, (lecturer on natural and experimental +philosophy,) under whose inspection it was constructed. The light-house +itself is of stone, and was erected, as appears from an inscription over +the door, by Captain Hugh Till, and Captain Simon Bayley, in the year +1680. The charges attending the light are defrayed by the Trinity House. +At St. Agnes is a pilchard fishery. St. Agnes' Beacon, six hundred and +sixty-four feet above the level of the sea, is formed out of an ancient +cairn, or tumulus of stones; near which, a summer-house has been built, +from whence is a fine view of St. Ives, and an extensive sea prospect. +Near the same spot is St. Agnes' Well, of which many miraculous stories +are in circulation, from its presumed holy and sanative properties. + +This place gave birth to John Opie, whose persevering genius advanced +him to the highest rank in his profession. He was born at Harmony Cot, +in May 1761. The opening years of his existence indicated that he must +plod through life in the dull occupation of a carpenter, as successor to +his father and grandfather. He distinguished himself at a very early +period, for originality and strength of mind, and at twelve years of age +commenced an evening school in St. Agnes, teaching arithmetic and +writing, and reckoning amongst his scholars some who had nearly doubled +his years. His first humble attempts at portrait painting were with a +smutty stick, against the white-washed wall of his paternal cottage, +where he exhibited, in _dark colours_, very striking likenesses of the +whole family. His next step was to draw with ochre on cartridge paper. +He was apprenticed to his father, but from some unascertainable cause +was turned over to a sawyer; and it was literally in the bottom of a +saw-pit that Dr. Walcot, better known by the appellation of Peter +Pindar, (who had previously seen and admired some of Opie's rude +drawings,) first beheld this untutored child of genius, under whose +patronage he was protected, and his fame promoted. After visiting +Exeter, (where he was persuaded to change his surname, which originally +was Hoppy, to that of Opie,) finding his success was commensurate with +his abilities, it was soon determined they should be brought to act in a +wider sphere; and, in 1780, the Doctor and his pupil repaired to London, +where not agreeing as to the mode of living together, they separated, +and although their attachment had been cemented by long-continued +kindness, subsequently to this period, yet they were never after +cordially united. The opinion Opie entertained of the services which he +had received from the Doctor, may be gathered from the following curious +_note of hand_, which was said to be in the possession of the latter: "I +promise to paint, for Dr. Walcot, any picture or pictures, he may +demand, as long as I live; otherwise, I desire the world will consider +me as a ... ungrateful son of a ..., John Opie." It is not certain that +he ever deviated from this voluntary obligation, but it is matter of +pleasant remark, that he always made his friend pay eighteen-pence for +the canvass! Opie was as fortunate in London as he had been at Exeter. +To Pindar, however, he was indebted for his introduction to public +notice. Through him his pictures were shown to Mrs. Boscawen, by whom +Opie was introduced to the late Mrs. Delaney, who procured for him the +notice of King George III. An opportunity was contrived for the royal +family to see his picture of the _The Old Beggar Man_; soon after which, +Opie was honoured with a command to repair to Buckingham House. The +artist's account of this interview was given in the following +characteristical manner to Walcot, who has often been heard to relate it +with great humour. "There was Mr. West," said Opie, "in the room, and +another gentleman. First, her majesty came in; and I made a sad mistake +in respect to her, till I saw her face, and discovered by her features +that she was the queen. In a few minutes his majesty came hopping in. I +suppose," said Opie, "because he did not wish to frighten me. He looked +at the pictures and liked them; but he whispered to Mr. West--'tell the +young man I can only pay a gentleman's price for them.'" The picture +which his majesty bought was that of _A Man Struck by Lightning_. The +price given was L10, with which Opie returned to the Doctor full of +spirits. His friend, when he heard the story, said, "Why, John, thou +hast only got L8. for thy picture." "Indeed, but I have though," cried +Opie, "for I have got the L10. safe in my pocket." On this he showed him +the money. "Aye," rejoined the Doctor, "but dost thou know his majesty +has got the frame for nothing, and that is worth L2." "D--- it, so he +has," cried Opie--"I'll go back and knock at the door, and ask for the +frame; D--- it, I will." He was actually about to put his resolve into +execution, till dissuaded by the Doctor. Popularity naturally followed +this notice of royalty. The ladies, however, soon deserted him, as his +likenesses were not flattering; for where Nature had been niggardly, +Opie refused to be liberal. He afterwards became better acquainted with +the art of pleasing them; a change which has been attributed to Mrs. +Opie, who used to stand over him, and endeavour to make him sensible of +the graces of the female form. It was in the year 1786, that Mr. Opie +became known as an exhibitor at Somerset House; soon after which he +aspired to academical honours, and ultimately attained the rank of Royal +Academician, and afterwards succeeded Fuseli, in the professorship of +painting. He was twice married, but at what period his first hymeneal +union occurred we are not informed--it was inauspicious. His second +marriage, which took place on May 8, 1798, was more fortunate; and in +the society of the late Mrs. Opie, the amiable author of many beautiful +and interesting literary compositions, he enjoyed a delightful relief +from the toilsome duties of his profession. Mr. Opie was in the daily +acquisition of wealth and fame, and rapidly advancing to the very zenith +of popularity, when his mortal career was suddenly closed by death, on +Thursday, April 9, 1807, in the forty-sixth year of his age. "As a +portrait painter he has great claims to praise, particularly in his men, +which are firm, bold, and freely delineated, and occasionally well +coloured. His women are heavy, inelegant, and chiefly accompanied with a +hardness that destroys all beauty." + +[Sidenote: Very high and strong light-house.] + +[Sidenote: St. Agnes' beacon.] + +[Sidenote: Birth-place of John Opie, the painter.] + +[Sidenote: First attempts at portrait painting.] + +[Sidenote: Genius fostered by Dr. Walcot.] + +[Sidenote: Anecdotes of Opie.] + +[Sidenote: Introduction to the King.] + +[Sidenote: Opie's relation of his interview with royalty.] + +[Sidenote: Royal economy.] + +[Sidenote: First known as an exhibitor at Somerset House, 1786.] + +[Sidenote: Died in 1807.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+------------------------+------------+-------------+---------------+ + 9|Aglionby to|Cumberland |Carlisle 3|Brampton 6| + 22|Aighton to|Lancaster |Clitheroe 6|Blackburn 7| + 43|Aikber to|N.R. York |Middleham 5|Richmond 6| + 46|Aike to|E.R. York |Beverley 6|M. Weighton 9| + 9|Aikton to & pa|Cumberland |Wigton 4|Carlisle 9| + 24|Ailsby pa|Lincolnshire|Gt. Grimsby 4|Caistor 9| + 28|Ailsworth ham|Northamp |Peterboro 4|M. Deeping 9| + 43|Ainderby Myers to|N.R. York |Catterick 3|Richmond 4| + 43|Ainderby Quernhow to|N.R. York |Thirsk 6|Northallerton 8| + 43|Ainderby Steeple to & pa|N.R. York |Bedale 5| 2| + 9|Ainstable pa|Cumberland |Penrith 11|Carlisle 11| + 46|Ainstie dis|W.R. York | | | + 43|Aiskew to|N.R. York |Bedale 1|Northallerton 6| + 44|Aismondersly |W.R. York |Ripon 1|Aldborough 5| + 22|Ainsworth to|Lancaster |Manchester 7|Bury 3| + 9|Ainthorn to|Cumberland |Wigton 10|Carlisle 12| + 22|Aintree to|Lancaster |Liverpool 6|Ormskirk 8| + 44|Airton to|W.R. York |Settle 6|Skipton 6| + 43|Airyholme to|N.R. York |New Malton 7|York 16| + 43|Aisenby to|N.R. York |Borobridge 6|Ripon 6| + 43|Aislaby to & pa|N.R. York |Whitby 2|Scarboro 18| + 13|Aislaby to|Durham |Stockton 4|Darlington 11| + 24|Aisthorpe to & pa|Lincoln |Lincoln 7|Gainsboro 12| + 29|Akeld to|Northumb |Wooler 2|Coldstream 9| + 5|Akeley to & pa|Bucks |Brackley 9|Buckingham 3| + 36|Akenham pa|Suffolk |Ipswich 4|Woodbridge 9| + 18|Albans, St[A] bo & to|Herts |Watford 8|Dunstable 12| + +--+------------------------+------------+-------------+---------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population + +--+-----------------------+---------------------------+-----+---------+ + 9|Aglionby to|Penrith 18| 302| 107| + 22|Aighton to|Preston 12| 210| 1980| + 43|Aikber to|Bedale 4| 234| 43| + 46|Aike to|Gt. Driffield 7| 190| 86| + 9|Aikton to & pa|Abbey-holm 7| 309| 753| + 24|Ailsby pa|Barton 15| 165| | + 28|Ailsworth ham|Stamford 9| 83| 289| + 43|Ainderby Myers to|Middleham 7| 222| | + 43|Ainderby Quernhow to|Ripon 7| 217| 107| + 43|Ainderby Steeple to & pa|Darlington 12| 223| 802| + 9|Ainstable pa|Kirk Oswald 5| 295| | + 46|Ainstie dis| ... | 199| 8740| + 43|Aiskew to|Richmond 9| 223| 586| + 44|Aismondersly |Masham 7| 212| | + 22|Ainsworth to|Bolton 8| 189| 1584| + 9|Ainthorn to|Gretna Green 8| 315| 203| + 22|Aintree to|Prescott 10| 212| 247| + 44|Airton to|Arnecliff 7| 230| 179| + 43|Airyholme to|Helmsley 6| 223| | + 43|Aiseny to|Thirsk 5| 211| | + 43|Aislaby to & pa|Pickering 15| 237| 402| + 43|Aislaby to|Yarm 1| 244| 143| + 24|Aisthorpe to & pa|Kirton 12| 140| 89| + 29|Akeld to|Kirk Newton 3| 322| 171| + 5|Akeley to & pa|Sto. Stratford 6| 59| 291| + 36|Akenham pa|Needham 7| 73| 119| + 18|Albans, St[A] bo & to|Hatfield 6| 21| 4772| + +--+------------------------+--------------------------+-----+---------+ + + +[A] St. ALBANS is situated on the river Ver, or Muss, and consists of +three parishes; parts of two of which, extend beyond the limits of the +borough. It is said to have been the site of the ancient British +metropolis of Cassibelanus, and is very near that of the ancient Roman +Verulam, mentioned by Tacitus, being the same as the Saxon +Watlingceaster, so called because seated on the road called +Watling-street. It was here that Queen Boadicea made her celebrated +assault on the Romans, and failed, after an immense slaughter of seventy +thousand men. In 795, Offa, king of Mercia, erected an abbey here, in +memory of St. Alban, the British protomartyr, who was born here in the +third century. He served in the Roman army, but was converted to +Christianity by a monk, named Amphilabus, and suffered during the +Dioclesian persecution, A.D. 303. The abbey subsequently obtained great +privileges, and became very rich, the revenues at the dissolution +amounting to upwards of L2500. per annum. Monastic foundations had their +origin in this country, about the time of St. Augustine, who came from +Rome, to convert the Pagan Saxons to Christianity; and when Offa +ascended the throne of Mercia, about twenty great monasteries had been +founded in England, and about the same number of episcopal sees +established. Offa's zeal prompted him to do what many of his crowned +predecessors had done; but being undetermined whom to select as the +patron saint of his establishment, it is recorded that, while at the +city of Bath, an angel appeared to him in the silence of the night, +desiring him to raise out of the earth the body of Alban, the first +British martyr, and place his remains in a suitable shrine. Even the +memory of Alban had been lost for three hundred and forty years; but the +king assembling his clergy and people at Verulam, an active search was +made for his body with prayer, fasting, and alms; when it is said a ray +of light was seen by all to stand over the place of burial, similar to +the star that conducted the magi to Bethlehem. The ground was therefore +opened, and, in the presence of the king, the body of Alban was found. +Offa is said to have placed a golden circle round the head of the +deceased, with an inscription, to signify his name and title, and +immediately caused the remains of the saint to be conveyed to a small +chapel, without the walls of Verulam, as the town was then called, until +a more noble edifice could be raised for its reception. This is said to +have occurred on the 1st day of August, 791, four hundred and +ninety-four years after the martyrdom of Alban. Offa afterwards made a +journey to Rome, and obtained the desired privileges of his intended +foundation, with great commendations for his zeal and piety, from the +pope, when he undertook to build a stately church and monastery, to the +memory of St. Alban. From this abbey the town originated, which early +obtained considerable importance. The abbey church, which claims +particular attention for its size, beauty, and antiquity, is constructed +of Roman brick, to which age has given the appearance of stone. A stone +screen, erected before the communion table, in 1461, is much admired for +the richness and lightness of its sculpture. The tombs of the founder, +Offa, and that of Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, are shown here; and, not +many years ago, the leaden coffin, containing the body of the latter, +was opened, and the corpse found nearly entire. The Roman antiquities +discovered on the site have been very numerous. The effect of the +venerable abbey, when seen from a distance, is extremely imposing; +situated upon an eminence, its massive towers rise majestically above +the houses of the ancient town, which is well, known to have derived its +first importance from the Romans, since which, it has increased chiefly +under the protecting influence of successive abbots of this rich and +powerful monastery. The prospect of its mouldering ruins, forces upon +the mind a melancholy train of reflection on the instability of all +human institutions. + + _Market_, Saturday.--_Fairs_, March 25 and 26; October 10 and 11, for + horses, cows, sheep, and hiring servants.--_Inns_, Angel, and White + Hart.--_Mail_ arrives 10.15 P.M. Departs 4.30 A.M. + +[Sidenote: Originally the British metropolis.] + +[Sidenote: King Offa's extraordinary vision, which induced him to build +the abbey.] + +[Sidenote: St. Alban's body found after a lapse of 494 years; a golden +circle placed round his head.] + +[Sidenote: Duke of Gloucester's body found nearly entire.] + + Map| Names of Places. |County.|Number of Miles From | + +--+--------------------+-------+---------------+----------------+ + 38|Albourn pa|Sussex |Hurst 2|Brighton 8| + 33|Albrighton to & chap|Salop |Shrewsbury 4|Wem 7| + 33|Albrighton pa|Salop |Shiffnall 6|Bridgnorth 10| + 27|Alburgh pa|Norfolk|Harleston 3|Bungay 5| + 31|Albury pa|Oxford |Tetsworth 3|Thame 4| + +--+--------------------+-------+---------------+----------------+ + |Dist. | + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond. |Population. + +--+--------------------+-----------------------+------+---------+ + 38|Albourn pa|Cuckfield 6| 42| 362| + 33|Albrighton to & chap|Ellesmere 12| 157| 1054| + 33|Albrighton pa|Wolverhamp 7| 137| 98| + 27|Alburgh pa|Norwich 16| 103| 586| + 31|Albury pa|Wheatley 3| 45| 239| + +--+--------------------+-----------------------+------+---------+ + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+---------------------+---------+----------------+------------+ + 18 |Albury pa|Herts |Bp Stortford 5|Standon 4| + 37 |Albury pa|Surrey |Guildford 6|Dorking 7| + 27 |Alby pa|Norfolk |Aylesham 6|Cromer 5| + 12 |Alcester lib|Dorset |Shaftesbury 1|Sherborne 16| + 39 |Alcester[A] m.t. & pa|Warwick |Warwick 16|Stratford 8| + 38 |Alciston pa|Sussex |Seaford 5|Hailsham 5| + 19 |Alconbury pa|Hunts |Huntingdon 4|Kimbolton 8| + 19 |Alconbury Weston chap|Hunts | ... 5| ... 8| + 27 |Aldborough pa|Norfolk |Aylesham 5|Cromer 6| + 43 |Aldborough to|N.R. York|Richmond 7|Darlington 5| + 46 |Aldborough to & pa|E.R. York|Hull 11|Hornsea 6| + 45 |Aldborough[B] pa & to|W.R. York|York 18|Thirsk 10| + 41 |Aldbourn[C] to & pa|Wilts |Marlboro 7|Ramsbury 3| + 18 |Aldbury pa|Herts |Tring 3|Dunstable 7| + 22 |Aldcliffe ham|Lancaster|Lancaster 2|Garstang 10| + 36 |Aldeburgh[D] m.t.|Suffolk |Orford 5|Saxmundha 7| + +--+---------------------+---------+----------------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+---------------------+--------------------------+-----+------+ + 18 |Albury pa|Buntingford 7| 35| 631| + 37 |Albury pa|Godalming 7| 29| 929| + 27 |Alby pa|N. Walsham 6| 26| 346| + 12 |Alcester lib|Salisbury 20| 101| 227| + 39 |Alcester[A] m.t. & pa|Bromsgrove 12| 103| 2405| + 38 |Alciston pa|Lewes 7| 64| 266| + 19 |Alconbury pa|Stilton 9| 63| 765| + 19 |Alconbury Weston chap| ... 8| 63| 441| + 27 |Aldborough pa|Holt 9| 126| 275| + 43 |Aldborough to|Bernard Cas 10| 240| 522| + 46 |Aldborough to & pa|Hedon 6| 185| 620| + 45 |Aldborough[B] pa & to|Ripon 6| 207| 2447| + 41 |Aldbourn[C] to & pa|Swindon 8| 73| 1418| + 18 |Aldbury pa|Berkhampst 4| 34| 695| + 22 |Aldcliffe ham|Kirk. Londs 17| 238| 96| + 36 |Aldeburgh[D] m.t.|Dunwich 10| 94| 1341| + +--+---------------------+-------------------------+------+------+ + + +[A] ALCESTER is situated at the confluence of the two small rivers, Alne +and Arrow, having a bridge over each. It is supposed to have been a +Roman station; Roman coins, urns, and similar relics, having been +frequently found here. The Roman way of Icknield Street also passed +through it, and from its situation it is deemed the Alana of Richard of +Cirencester. It was anciently a borough by prescription, and of some +note in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, when it became the +property of the Beauchamps, and afterwards of the Grevilles. The church +is a fine gothic structure; the market is well supplied with corn; and +the manufacture of needles is very extensive. Here is a Free School, +founded by Walter Newport, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and various +alms-houses and small charities, originating in different benefactors. +Traces of the site of an abbey, founded in the reign of King Stephen, to +the north of the town, are still visible. + + _Market_, Tuesday.--_Mail_ arrives 9-1/2 A.M., departs 8-1/2 + P.M.--_Inn_, Angel.--_Fairs_, March 20, June 23, Tuesday before April + 5, May 18, 2nd Tuesday in July, for cheese. + +[Sidenote: A Roman station.] + +[Sidenote: Many relics of antiquity found.] + +[Sidenote: Traces of an abbey founded by King Stephen.] + + + +[B] ALDBOROUGH. _Fair_, September 4. + + +[C] ALDBOURN. _Market_, Tuesday. + + +[D] ALDEBURGH is pleasantly situated in the valley of Slaughton, and +bounded on the eastern side by the sea, which has made considerable +encroachments, and nearly washed a street away. The river Ald runs on +the south side, and forms a convenient quay. The town is mean in +construction, and chiefly inhabited by fishermen and seafaring people. +Soles, lobsters, and other fish are abundant. It is remarkable as the +birth-place of the late Rev. George Crabbe, emphatically styled the +_Poet of the Poor_, who was born December 24, 1754. His father was an +officer in the Customs, and at first gave him an education, merely +suitable to follow the same pursuit; but when his prospects brightened, +he removed his son to a classical seminary, where he was instructed for +a surgeon and apothecary, to which profession he was in due time +apprenticed, but relinquished all views of establishing himself in +practice. At a very early period he became a versifier; and among his +precocious attempts was a prize poem, on _Hope_, which was inserted in +the _Lady's Magazine_, then published by Mr. Wheeble. Crabbe came to +London, in 1778, with L3. in his pocket, and made versification his +chief study. His first published work was _The Candidate_, a poem, in +quarto, which came into the world anonymously, in 1780, and was +favourably received. A short time afterwards, his poverty and poetry +induced him to seek the patronage of Edmund Burke, to whom he submitted +a large quantity of miscellaneous composition; he had no introduction to +Mr. Burke, excepting his own letter, stating his circumstances; no +recommendation but his distress, and yet his application was attended +with success. His patron introduced him to some of the first men in the +country, and soon after became the means of benefiting his fame and +fortune; he selected from young Crabbe's works, _The Library_ and _The +Village_, suggesting at the same time certain corrections and +improvements. Among the eminent persons to whom he was thus introduced, +was the Right Hon. Charles James Fox, Sir Joshua Reynolds, at whose +mansion he first beheld, and was made known to, Dr. Johnson, who gave +the young poet his opinion of _The Village_. Mr. Burke having directed +Mr. Crabbe's views to the church, in 1781 he was ordained a deacon by +the Bishop of Norwich, and priest by the same dignitary in the following +year; he was next appointed domestic chaplain to the Duke of Rutland at +Belvoir Castle. As Mr. Crabbe had not received a university education, +he was offered a degree by Trinity College, Cambridge, but eventually +received the grant from the Archbishop of Canterbury, at Lambeth, and +thus became a Bachelor of Laws. Burke also introduced Mr. Crabbe to Lord +Chancellor Thurlow, who presented him to rectories in Dorset and Lincoln +consecutively. He had previously a curacy at Strathorn, a village near +Belvoir Castle, where he married and became a father; he was universally +respected for his talents and virtues, and died at Trowbridge, at seven +o'clock in the morning of the 8th of February, 1832. The publications of +Mr. Crabbe have placed him high on the roll of British Poets. + + _Market_, Wednesday and Saturday.--_Fairs_, March 1, and May 3, for + toys.--_Inn_, White Lion.--_Mail_ arrives at 9-1/2 A.M. departs 5-1/2 + P.M. + +[Sidenote: Birth place of the Rev. George Crabbe, the poet. Biographical +sketch of his life.] + +[Sidenote: Crabbe's arrival in London, 1778.] + +[Sidenote: His first published work well received.] + +[Sidenote: Crabbe's introduction to eminent persons.] + +[Sidenote: Promoted to the church.] + +[Sidenote: Died at Trowbridge 1132.] + + Map| Names of Places.| County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------+----------+--------------+---------------+ + 27|Aldeby pa|Norfolk |Beccles 3|Yarmouth 11| + 18|Aldenham pa|Herts |Watford 3|St. Albans 6| + 41|Alderbury to|Wilts |Salisbury 3|Downton 4| + 27|Alderford pa|Norfolk |Reepham 3|Norwich 9| + 15|Alderley pa|Gloucester|Wickwar 4|Wooton 2| + 7|Alderley pa|Chester |Macclesfield 5|Knutsford 5| + 4|Aldermaston[A] pa|Berks |Reading 10|Newbury 8| + 42|Alderminster pa|Worcester |Evesham 10|Stratford-Av. 5| + 41|Alderton pa|Wilts |Malmsbury 6|Tetbury 7| + 15|Alderton pa|Gloucester|Winchcomb 3|Cheltenham 7| + 28|Alderton pa|Northamp |Towcester 4|Northampton 9| + 36|Alderton pa|Suffolk |Woodbridge 7|Orford 9| + 7|Aldersey to|Chester |Chester 8|Tarporley 8| + 16|Aldershott pa|Hants |Farnham 3|Odiham 8| + 10|Alderwasley to|Derby |Wirksworth 1|Matlock 4| + 7|Aldford to & pa|Chester |Chester 5|Malpas 10| + 45|Aldfield to|W.R. York |Ripon 3|Ripley 4| + 14|Aldham pa|Essex |Coggeshall 4|Colchester 6| + 36|Aldham pa|Suffolk |Hadley 2|Stow-Market 9| + 38|Aldingbourn pa|Sussex |Chichester 4|Arundel 7| + 22|Aldingham pa|Lancaster |Ulverstone 5|Dalton 4| + 21|Aldington[B] pa|Kent |Hythe 6|Ashford 7| + +--+-----------------+----------+--------------+---------------+ + |Dist. | + Map| Names of Places.| Number of Miles From |Lond. |population. + +--+-----------------+-------------------------+------+--------+ + 27|Aldeby pa|Lowestoft 7| 112| 530| + 18|Aldenham pa|Elstree 3| 17| 1494| + 41|Alderbury to|Farley 3| 80| 1323| + 27|Alderford pa|Aylesham 7| 108| 40| + 15|Alderley pa|Tetbury 8| 108| 200| + 7|Alderley pa|Congleton 8 172| 1338| + 4|Aldermaston[A] pa|Kingsclere 5| 49| 636| + 42|Alderminster pa|Shipston-Sto. 6| 89| 454| + 41|Alderton pa|Chippenham 8| 103| 213| + 15|Alderton pa|Tewkesbury 7| 102| 330| + 28|Alderton pa|Sto. Stratford 9| 58| 162| + 36|Alderton pa|Ipswich 12| 79| 575| + 7|Aldersey to|Malpas 5| 175| 138| + 16|Aldershott pa|Frimley 6| 35| 665| + 10|Alderwasley to|Bakewell 9| 138| 424| + 7|Aldford to & pa|Tarporley 9| 177| 710| + 45|Aldfield to|Borobridge 7|2 08| 133| + 14|Aldham pa|Neyland 6| 48| 407| + 36|Aldham pa|Ipswich 8| 66| 318| + 38|Aldingbourn pa|Bognor 5| 62| 833| + 22|Aldingham pa|Lancaster 15| 277| 884| + 21|Aldington[B] pa|New Romney 8| 60| 732| + +--+-----------------+-------------------------+------+--------+ + + +[A] ALDERMASTON. _Fairs_, May 6, July 7, for horses and cattle, and +October 11, for pedlery. + + +[B] ALDINGTON. Elizabeth Barton, commonly called the Holy Maid of Kent, +a religious impostor, lived in the reign of Henry VIII. She was a +servant at Aldington, and having been for a long time afflicted with +convulsions, which distorted her limbs and countenance, and threw her +body into the most violent agitations, acquired a power of +counterfeiting the same appearances whenever she pleased. Richard +Master, who then held this living, with other ecclesiastics, thinking +her a proper instrument for their purpose, induced her to pretend that +all she said and did, was by a supernatural impulse, and taught her to +act her part in the most perfect manner. Thus she pretended to be +honoured with visions; to hear heavenly voices and most ravishing +melody; she declaimed against the wickedness of the times, against +heresy and innovations; exhorting all persons to frequent the church, to +hear masses, to make frequent confessions, and to pray to our lady, and +all saints. This artful management, with her apparent piety, virtue, and +austerity of life, completely deceived even Sir Thomas More, Bishop +Fisher, and Archbishop Warham, the last of which appointed commissioners +to examine her, to whom she was instructed to say, in her counterfeit +trances, that she should never recover till she went to visit the image +of the Virgin Mary, in a chapel dedicated to her in this parish, which +was done. After that she pretended that she was called to be a nun, and +the Archbishop being fully satisfied with the reports, had her placed in +the nunnery of St. Sepulchre, Canterbury, where she alleged she had +visions and revelations of a divine nature, so as to completely impose +upon the public. The main object of the priests, her managers, was +directed publicly to announce how God had revealed to her, "that in case +the king should divorce Queen Catherine of Anjou, and take another wife +during her life, his royalty would not be of a month's duration, but +that he should die the death of a villain," which created considerable +excitement, and much controversy: encouraged by the lenity of the +government, the ecclesiastics in this conspiracy, resolved to publish +the revelations of the nun throughout the kingdom. They had communicated +them to the Pope's Ambassadors, and exhorted Queen Catherine to persist +in her resolutions. At length this confederacy became a serious affair, +and Henry ordered the maid and her accomplices to be examined in the +Star Chamber, where they confessed all the particulars of the imposture; +and afterwards, upon a scaffold erected at Paul's Cross, were compelled +to hear their confession publicly read; they were confined in the Tower +until the meeting of parliament, by whom the whole affair was pronounced +to be a conspiracy against the king's life, and crown. The nun, and her +confederates, were eventually attainted of high treason, and executed at +Tyburn, April 20th, 1534, where she confessed the imposture, laying the +blame on her accomplices, the priests; craving pardon of God, and the +King. + +[Sidenote: The History of the Holy Maid of Kent.] + +[Sidenote: Holy Maid of Kent.] + +[Sidenote: The imposture detected.] + +[Sidenote: Herself and confederates executed at Tyburn.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------------+----------+--------------+----------------+ + 42|Aldington ham| Worcester| Evesham 3| Moreton 10| + 35|Aldridge pa| Stafford| Walsall 3|Sut. Coldfield 4| + 36|Aldringham pa| Suffolk| Aldeburgh 2| Saxmundha 5| + 38|Aldrington pa| Sussex| Brighton 5| Steyning 6| + 9|Aldstone Moor[A] to & pa|Cumberland| Carlisle 25| Kirk Oswald 12| + 15|Aldsworth pa|Gloucester| Northleach 4| Fairford 6| + 16|Aldwark to| Derby| Wirksworth 4| Ashbourn 6| + 44|Aldwark to| N. R York| Borobridge 5| Easingwold 4| + 45|Aldwarke to| W. R York| Rotherham 2| Sheffield 4| + 28|Aldwinckle-all Saints p| Northamp| Thrapston 3| Kettering 10| + 28|Aldwinckle-St Peter pa| Northamp| ... 3| ... 10| + 4|Aldsworth[B] pa| Berks|East Ilsley 4| Wallingford 7| + +--+------------------------+----------+--------------+----------------+ + |Dist. | + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond. |Population. + +--+-----------------------+-------------------------+------+---------+ + 42|Aldington ham|Alcester 10| 96| 104| + 35|Aldridge pa|Lichfleld 6| 116| 1804| + 36|Aldringham pa|Dunwich 7| 94| 362| + 38|Aldrington pa|Worthing 7| 55| 615| + 9|Aldstone Moor[A] to & pa|Haltwhistle 10| 272| 6858| + 15|Aldsworth pa|Burford 4| 78| 353| + 16|Aldwark to|Winster 6| 145| 97| + 44|Aldwark to|Knaresboro 9| 202| 190| + 45|Aldwarke to|Barnsley 8| 172| ...| + 28|Aldwinckle-all Saints p|Oundle 5| 76| 247| + 28|Aldwinckle-St Peter pa| ... 5| 76| 171| + 4|Aldsworth[B] pa|Newbury 11| 50| 268| + +--+------------------------+------------------------+------+--------+ + + +[A] ALDSTONE MOOR, in Leath Ward, is situated on the borders of +Northumberland, in the most picturesque and romantic part of the county. +The town itself stands upon a hill, at the bottom of which runs the +river Tyne. The immediate vicinity abounds in lead-mines, on estates +which once belonged to the Derwentwater family. On the attainder of the +last earl, they were granted in aid of the support of Greenwich +Hospital, from the trustees of which national institution, the mines are +at present leased. Satin spar is found in this parish; there is also a +pool on Gildersdale Fell, the slime of which is used for painting +yellow. About three miles from the town, are the earthworks of Whitley +castle, where relics of antiquity have frequently been discovered. + + _Market_, Saturday.--_Fairs_, last Thursday in May, 1st Thursday in + September, for cattle, horses, linen and woollen cloth. + +[Sidenote: Picturesque and Romantic scenery.] + +[Sidenote: The slime of a pool use for painting yellow.] + + +[B] ALDWORTH is pleasantly situated on a hill: here was anciently a +mansion belonging to the family of De La Beche, the site of which is now +Beach Farm. In the churchyard is a remarkable yew-tree, the trunk +measuring nine yards in circumference, at upwards of four feet from the +ground. The church is celebrated for its very ancient monuments, nine in +number, disposed in enriched arches on each side, and in the centre of +the interior; these are supposed to belong to the De La Beche family, +and from the costume of the figures upon the tombs, may be referred to +the fourteenth century; six of them are knights in armour; two are +females, and one in the common habit of the time; some of the knights +are represented lying cross-legged; these had vowed, or accompanied a +crusade; the workmanship is excellent, and the attitude and expression +of each of the figures that remain perfect, are exceedingly graceful, +but several of the monuments are now considerably mutilated. The font is +very ancient, and remarkably plain, but very capacious, and somewhat +singular in its form. + +[Sidenote: Remarkable yew-tree, nine yards round.] + +[Sidenote: Church celebrated for ancient monuments.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+------------------------+----------+--------------+--------------+ + 29|Alemouth to|Northumb |Lesbury 2|Alnwick 5| + 28|Alesworth ham|Northamp |Deeping 7|Wandsford 3| + 37|Alfold pa|Surrey |Guildford 10|Godalming 7| + 24|Alford m.t. & pa|Lincoln |Saltfleet 12|Lincoln 34| + 34|Alford pa|Somerset |Shepton 7|Castle Cary 2| + 10|Alfreton[A] pa|Derby |Derby 14|Wirksworth 10| + 42|Alfrick chap|Worcester |Bromvard 6|Worcester 8| + 38|Alfriston pa|Sussex |Newhaven 5|Seaford 3| + 24|Algarkirk pa|Lincoln |Fosdyke Br. 3|Boston 6| + 31|Alkerton pa|Oxford |Shipston 8|Banbury 6| + 21|Alkham pa|Kent |Canterbury 12|Dover 4| + 15|Alkington ti & to|Gloucester|Old Passage 10|Berkeley 1| + 10|Alkmonton to|Derby |Derby 10|Ashbourn 5| + 22|Alkrington to|Lancaster |Rochdale 7|Manchester 6| + 41|Alcannings pa & to|Wilts |Calne 7|Devizes 4| + 29|Allendale pa & to|Northumb |Aldsto. Moor 10|Hexham 8| + 29|Allen-Head pa|Northumb | ... 9|Hexham 12| + 8|Allen, St. pa|Cornwall |St. Michael 4|Truro 4| + 17|Allensmore pa|Hereford |Thruxton 2|Hereford 4| + 29|Allenton pa & to|Northumb |Wooler 16|Rothbury 8| + 34|Aller pa|Somerset |Taunton 11|Somerton 6| + 9|Allerby to|Cumberland|Wigton 8|Cockermout 7| + 43|Allerston pa|N.R. York |New Malton 8|Pickering 5| + 46|Allerthorpe pa|E.R. York |York 11|Pocklington 2| + 43|Allerthorpe to|N.R. York |Northallerton 6|Bedale 5| + 22|Allerton to|Lancaster |Warrington 12|Liverpool 6| + 34|Allerton Chapel pa|Somerset |Wells 10|Axbridge 3| + 45|Allerton Chapel pa|W.R. York |Halifax 7|Leeds 2| + 45|Allerton to|W.R. York |Ottley 5|Bradford 4| + 45|Allerton Bywater to|W.R. York |Wakefield 6|Pontefract 5| + 45|Allerton Mauleverer[B] p|W.R. York |Wetherby 5|Knaresboro 4| + +--+------------------------+----------+---------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+------------------------+--------------------------+-----+-------+ + 29|Alemouth to|Morpeth 19| 311| 415| + 28|Alesworth ham|Peterborough 5| 87| 289| + 37|Alfold pa|Haslemere 9| 41| 514| + 24|Alford m.t. & pa||Louth 11| 142| 1784| + 34|Alford pa|Glastonbury 8| 115| 137| + 10|Alfreton[A] pa|Mansfield 9| 139| 5691| + 42|Alfrick chap||Gt. Malvern 10| 119| 493| + 38|Alfriston pa|Hailsham 6| 55| 694| + 24|Algarkirk pa|Donnington 7| 111| 651| + 31|Alkerton pa|Kineton 6| 77| 192| + 21|Alkham pa|Folkestone 4| 69| 542| + 15|Alkington ti & to|Dursley 3| 113| 1167| + 10|Alkmonton to|Uttoxeter 7| 134| 79| + 22|Alkrington to|Oldham 1| 187| 367| + 41|Alcannings pa & to|Marlborough 9| 88| 811| + 29|Allendale pa & to|Haltwhistle 10| 273| 5540| + 29|Allen-Head pa|Allendale 4| 268| ...| + 8|Allen, St. pa|Falmouth 12| 252| 637| + 17|Allensmore pa|Ross 12| 131| 592| + 29|Allenton pa & to|Bellingham 15| 310| 822| + 34|Aller pa|Bridgewater 8| 128| 490| + 9|Allerby to|Abbey-Holm 6| 313| ...| + 43|Allerston pa|Scarborough 10| 220| 385| + 46|Allerthorpe pa|M. Weighton 6| 212| 185| + 43|Allerthorpe to|Thirsk 6| 218| 167| + 22|Allerton to|Prescott 6| 202| 374| + 34|Allerton Chapel pa|Bridgewater 11| 132| 313| + 45|Allerton Chapel pa|Bradford 8| 194| 1730| + 45|Allerton to|Keighly 4| 200| 1733| + 45|Allerton Bywater to|Leeds 6| 182| 375| + 45|Allerton Mauleverer[B] p|Borobridge 5| 202| ...| + +--+------------------------+--------------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] ALFRETON, is situated about two miles from the commencement of the +moors, which extend so widely in this county. The town is supposed to +have been built by King Alfred, and to derive its name from him. The +spot is shown where the house stood in which he lived. The inhabitants +are principally employed in a stocking manufactory, and in the +neighbouring collieries. Earthenware is also made in this place, and the +Monday market, for corn, is considerable. In Greenhill Lane, near this +town, seven hundred Roman coins, were discovered by a labourer employed +in repairing a fence. + + _Markets_, Monday and Friday.--_Mail_ arrives 2-1/4 P.M., departs + 9-1/4 A.M.--_Fairs_, horses and cattle, October 8, and November 22, + statute.--_Inns_, Angel, and George. + +[Sidenote: Built by King Alfred.] + +[Sidenote: 700 Roman coins found here.] + + +[B] ALLERTON MAULEVERER, is situated in a very beautiful part of +Yorkshire. The park now in the possession of _Lord Stourton_, consists +of about four hundred acres, in which is a superb mansion; the land is +very rich, and charmingly diversified by a variety of hills, dales, and +groves, which are considerably enlivened, and receive much additional +beauty, from a very fine expanse of water. An octagonal tower has been +built on a lofty hill, finely shaded with trees; it consists of two +rooms, and is approached by a double flight of steps, each of which, as +well as the terrace around the building, are protected by iron +palisades. From this commanding situation, all the various beauties of +the park are seen to the greatest advantage, and many extensive and +diversified prospects are enjoyed. Here was a priory of Benedictine +monks, founded by Richard Mauleverer, in the reign of Henry II., which +was dissolved about three centuries afterwards by King Henry VI. The +manor was the seat of the Mauleverer family for more than five hundred +years, when Sir Richard, the last heir, who died unmarried, left the +estate by will to his mother, who, afterwards by marriage, conveyed it +to the Arundel family, and from them it became the property of the +Honourable, William Monkton Arundel, Viscount Galway, whose son, the +late Lord Galway, sold it in the year 1786, to the late Duke of York, +who afterwards occasionally resided in the park, with George IV., then +Prince of Wales. The estate, comprising four thousand five hundred and +twenty-five acres, was sold by the Royal Duke to Colonel Thornton, for +L110,000; and was, in 1805, resold by that gentleman to the late Lord +Stourton, father of the present proprietor. The mansion stands on a +gentle elevation; it was erected by his Royal Highness the Duke of York, +and has since been considerably improved. + +[Sidenote: Extensive park and mansion.] + +[Sidenote: Picturesque tower.] + +[Sidenote: Here was a Priory of Benedictine monks.] + +[Sidenote: Sale of the estate by the late Duke of York, for L110,000.] + + Map|Names of Places.| County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------+----------+------------+--------------+ + 39|Allesley pa|Warwick |Coventry 2|Nuneaton 8| + 10|Allestrey pa|Derby |Derby 2|Ashbourn 14| + 23|Allexton pa|Leicester |Rockingham 6|M. Harboro 9| + 9|Allhallows pa|Cumberland|Wigton 5|Market Ireby 4| + 21|Allhallows pa|Kent |Rochester 7|Sheerness 5| + 12|Allington pa|Dorset |Bridport 1|Lyme Regis 8| + 21|Allington[A] pa|Kent |Maidstone 2|Rochester 7| + +--+----------------+----------+------------+--------------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places.| Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------+-----------------------+--------------+ + 39|Allesley pa|Kenilworth 6| 93| 875| + 10|Allestrey pa|Alfreton 13| 128| 501| + 23|Allexton pa||Uppingham 5| 89| 68| + 9|Allhallows pa|Allonby 7| 308| 205| + 21|Allhallows pa|Queenboro 6| 36| 263| + 12|Allington pa|Beaminster 5| 136| 1300| + 21|Allington[A] pa|Wrotham 8| 32| 37| + +--+----------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+ + + +[A] ALLINGTON. Situated in the hundred of Larkefield, in the lathe of +Aylesford, near the river Medway. ALLINGTON CASTLE was originally +built in the Saxon times, by a noble family denominated _Columbary_, +but was razed afterwards by the Danes. The manor was given after the +conquest to Bishop Odo, (in whose time there was a _church_ at +Allington,) and on his disgrace, to the great Earl Warrenne, who is +stated to have had the castle rebuilt, which, however, seems to be +doubtful, as the famous Sir Stephen Penchester, constable of Dover +Castle, in the reign of Edward I., and then owner of this manor, had a +license to fortify, and embattle, his mansion-house here. It passed +afterwards to the _Cobham_ family; and from them to the _Brents_, by +whom it was alienated to Sir Henry Wyatt, a descendant from a worthy +Yorkshire family; who, besides losing seventeen manors, was deprived of +his liberty for engaging in the plot against Richard III. in favour of +the Earl of Richmond; but when success had crowned the attempts of the +latter, he was released by the new king, knighted, made banneret, a +knight of the bath, and a privy counsellor. He made this castle his +residence; and here was born his accomplished son and successor, Sir +Thomas Wyatt. This gentleman who was equally renowned, as a scholar, a +soldier, and a statesman, (in consequence of which he was considered to +be "the delight of the muses and mankind") made this a "fair seat," and +was visited here by Henry VIII., (as his father Sir Henry had also +been,) with whom he was a great favourite; though he appears in some +degree to have unintentionally excited his jealousy, through the +admiration which his accomplishments had raised in the breast of the +fascinating Anne Boleyn. He died in his thirty-eighth year, at +Sherborne, in Dorsetshire, of a violent fever. His son Sir Thomas Wyatt, +the younger, being deprived of his estates and life, for treason against +Queen Mary, this castle and manor became vested in the crown, and were +granted, on lease by Elizabeth, to John Astley Esq., master of her +jewels, in her eleventh year. His son, Sir John Astley, afterwards had +the whole granted to him by the queen's letters patent, dated in her +twenty-sixth year, and from his family it was transferred to that of +Lord Romney, and is now the property of the present earl. The remains of +the castle are particularly curious and interesting, but give the idea +rather of a fortified dwelling, than of a place of strength. The moat +still exists, as does the entrance gateway, which was erected by the +Cobhams. Besides the castle and parsonage, (a mere cottage,) there is +only one house in this parish; though Sir Stephen de Penchester is +recorded to have procured a grant of a market weekly, and a three days +annual fair for his manor of Allington. + +[Sidenote: The castle.] + +[Sidenote: Mansion given to Bishop Odo.] + +[Sidenote: Sir Henry Wyatt deprived of seventeen manors and his liberty, +for treason.] + +[Sidenote: Sir Thomas Wyatt, was an accomplished scholar, soldier and +statesman.] + +[Sidenote: Parish consists of one house, a church, and a cottage.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------------+----------+------------------------------+ + 41|Allington pa|Wilts |Amesbury 4|Salisbury 6| + 41|Allington to|Wilts |Chippenham 2|Malmsbury 9| + 41|Allington to|Wilts |Devizes 4|Calne 7| + 11|Allington, East pa|Devon |Kingsbridge 4|Dartmouth 6| + 11|Allington, West pa|Devon | ... 1|Modbury 7| + 24|Allington, West pa|Lincoln |Grantham 5|Newark 10| + 22|Allithwaite, Upper to|Lancaster |Cartmel 3|Hawkeshead 11| + 22|Allithwaite, Lower to|Lancaster | ... 1| ... 13| + 9|Allonby to|Cumberland|Wigton 11|Cockermouth 9| + 7|Allostock to|Chester |Knutsford 5|Middlewich 5| + 36|All Saints, St. Elm pa|Suffolk |Halesworth 5|Bungay 5| + 17|Almeley pa|Hereford |Weobly 5|Kington 4| + 12|Almer, West pa|Dorset |Blandford 6|Bere Regis 6| + 35|Almington to|Stafford |Drayton 1|Newcastle 12| + 39|Almington & Delph to|Warwick |Tamworth 2|Atherstone 7| + 38|Almodington pa|Sussex |Chichester 6|Bognor 10| + 45|Almondbury[A] pa & to|W.R. York |Huddersfield 2|Barnsley 10| + 15|Almondsbury pa & ti|Gloucester|Thornbury 4|Old Pas. Hou. 5| + 34|Almsford pa|Somerset |Castle Cary 1|Bruton 4| + 43|Alne pa & to|N.R. York |Easingwold 3|Borobridge 6| + 39|Alne, Great chap & to|Warwick |Alcester 3|Henley-Arden 5| + 29|Alnham pa & to|Northumb |Alnwick 14|Wooler 11| + 29|Alnwick[B] m.t. & pa|Northumb |Newcastle 34|Morpeth 9| + +--+-----------------------+----------+--------------+---------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------------+-------------------------+-----+---------+ + 41|Allington pa|Andover 11| 77| 80| + 41|Allington to|Bath 13| 95| 162| + 41|Allington to|Marlboro 10| 88| 162| + 11|Allington, East pa|Totness 7| 205| 677| + 11|Allington, West pa|Plymouth 18| 207| 872| + 24|Allington, West pa|M. Mowbray 16| 115| 357| + 22|Allithwaite, Upper to|Ulverstone 11| 255| 759| + 22|Allithwaite, Lower to|..by Ferry 6| 257| 838| + 9|Allonby to|Abbey-Holm 8| 315| 783| + 7|Allostock to|Northwich 6| 168| 448| + 36|All Saints, St. Elm pa|Harleston 5| 105| 439| + 17|Almeley pa|Leominster 7| 107| ...| + 35|Almington to|Eccleshall 10| 158| 340| + 39|Almington & Delph to|Coleshill 10| 112| 264| + 38|Almodington pa|Selsea-Bill 4| 68| ...| + 45|Almondbury[A] pa & to|Wakefield 9| 186| 30606| + 15|Almondsbury pa & ti|Bristol 8| 117| 1408| + 34|Almsford pa|Glastonbury 9| 114| 304| + 43|Alne pa & to|Thirsk 9| 212| 1967| + 39|Alne, Great chap & to|Stratford 7| 103| 343| + 29|Alnham pa & to|Rothbury 9| 314| 278| + 29|Alnwick[B] m.t. & pa| ... 11| 308| 6788| + +--+-----------------------+-------------------------+-----+---------+ + + +[A] ALMONDBURY is situated near the river Calder, in the upper division +of the wapentake of Aybrigg. Here is a grammar school, founded by patent +from James I. and endowed with about L120 per annum. This place is noted +for its extensive woollen manufactories. It was anciently called +Albanbury. In the neighbourhood traces of an ancient castle, on an +eminence, are still discernable. It is supposed, by some antiquarians, +to have been the Campodonum of the Romans, and subsequently a royal seat +of some of the Saxon kings. + +[Sidenote: Grammar school founded by James I.] + +[Sidenote: Ancient castle. Campodonum of the Romans.] + + +[B] ALNWICK, is on the high road from London to Berwick, and usually +regarded as the capital of the county. It is situated partly in the +southern division of Barnborough Ward, and partly in the eastern +division of Coquetdale Ward. It is built irregularly, on the declivities +of a hill, near the river Alne, over which a handsome stone bridge was +erected by the late Duke of Northumberland, which bears the Percy crest +on the parapet; there is also another bridge, of one arch, lower down +the river; these two bridges serve as boundaries to the fine lawns +surrounding the castle. At the head of Pottergate is a tower or +clock-house, built in 1786. An abbey of Premonstratension canons was +founded at Alnwick by Eustace St. John, in the year 1147. It was +pleasantly situated on the northern margin of the Alne, the site of +which was granted, in 1549, to Ralph Sadler, and Lawrence Wennington, +after which it became the seat of the Brandling family, and also of the +Doubleday family, by whom it was sold to the Duke of Northumberland. A +fine gate house still remains, on which the Percy arms is visible. This +town has a spacious market place, and a considerable town hall, in which +the sessions and county courts are held. It is paved, watched, and +lighted, under an act passed in 1821. Although the county town, the +assizes are held at Newcastle. Alnwick Castle has been for many +centuries a fortress of great strength, and the family mansion of the +Percys'; it stands on an eminence on the south side of the Alne, +opposite to the town, and commands a beautiful view of the country. The +walls are flanked with sixteen gothic towers, the battlements of which, +are ornamented with figures of ancient warriors: it is very celebrated +in border history, and was peculiarly fatal to the kings of Scotland, of +whom Malcolm II. and his son Edward, fell before it; and William, +surnamed the Lion, was taken prisoner. The castle has lately undergone a +complete repair; great attention having been paid to the restoration of +the gothic ornaments in their original style. The chapel has been +rendered extremely beautiful, by the introduction of a ceiling, in +imitation of the celebrated one of King's College, Cambridge. There is +also a handsome window, on the model of one at York Minster, and the +walls are painted in the manner of those of the cathedral of Milan. The +tenants of the estate at Alnwick, in the year 1818, erected a monument +to the memory of the late Duke of Northumberland, who died in 1817, and +was buried in Westminster Abbey. The Percy column, as it is called, +stands on a beautiful knoll, adjoining the road on the southern entrance +to the town; it rises without a pedestal, and may be seen in every +direction, it is eighty-three feet in height, but may be ascended easily +by a circular flight of stairs within. There is an immemorial custom +continued here on the proclamation of the several fairs; divers adjacent +townships, which are free of toll in the borough, by this service, send +their deputies to attend the bailiff, on the eve of the fair, when he +makes proclamation; after which they keep watch all night in every part +of the town, and this is the most perfect remains of watch and ward +retained in any part of this country. It is said that King John, having +endured considerable inconvenience from the miry state of the roads, in +humorous revenge, directed that for the future, the freemen of Alnwick, +should be made in the following manner, which is still observed.--On St. +Mark's day, those who are to be made free, assemble in the market place, +dressed in white, with white caps, and a sword by their side. They +proceed on horseback from this place to the town moor, headed by the +four chamberlains, attired in the same manner, where they alight and +rush through a muddy pool; having performed this ceremony, they change +their soiled garments, and return to the town. Here is a free school, +supported by a revenue arising out of the tolls, and various minor +charities. + + _Market_, Saturday,--_Mail_ arrives 6-1/4 A.M., departs 5-1/2 + P.M.--_Fairs_, Palm Sunday eve, for shoes, hats, &c.; May 12th, + horses and horned cattle; last Monday in July, linen and woollen + cloth; 1st Tuesday in October, and October 28th, horses and cattle; + and Saturday before Christmas Day, for shoes, hats, and + woollens.--_Bankers_, Ridley and Co., draw on Glynn and Co.--_Inn_, + White Swan. + +[Sidenote: An abbey of monks, founded in 1147.] + +[Sidenote: Fortress of great strength.] + +[Sidenote: The fall of Malcolm II. and his son Edward.] + +[Sidenote: Monument to the memory of the late Duke of Northumberland.] + +[Sidenote: Curious customs in Alnwick.] + +[Sidenote: Making freemen at Alnwick through a muddy pool.] + + Map| Names of Places. |County.| Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------------+-------+------------+------------+ + 14|Alphamstone pa|Essex |Halstead 5|Sudbury 5| + 36|Alphaston pa|Suffolk|Sudbury 7|Lavenham 3| + 11|Alphington pa|Devon |Exeter 1|Topsham 5| + 27|Alpington pa|Norfolk|Norwich 6|Loddon 5| + 7|Alpraham to|Chester|Tarporley 3|Malpas 8| + 14|Alresford pa|Essex |Colchester 5|St. Osyth 6| + 16|Alresford, New[A] m.t.|Hants |Southamp. 19|Winchester 7| + +--+----------------------+-------+------------+------------+ + | |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From|Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------------+--------------------+-----+------+ + 14|Alphamstone pa|Colchester 10| 50| 277| + 36|Alphaston pa|Bury 10| 61| 309| + 11|Alphington pa|Chudleigh 8| 167| 1236| + 27|Alpington pa|Hempnell 6| 119| 197| + 7|Alpraham to|Nantwich 7| 176| 418| + 14|Alresford pa||Manningtre 8| 56| 297| + 16|Alresford, New[A] m.t.|Alton 10| 57| 1437| + +--+----------------------+--------------------+-----+------+ + + +[A] NEW ALRESFORD, is in the north division of the hundred of Alton: +seated on the river Itchin, at no great distance from its source. It was +anciently a more populous place than at present, the navigation of the +river, having at one time extended from Southampton to this town; +whereas, it now ceases at Winchester. Alresford is divided into two +parishes, of which that of Old Alresford is deemed the mother church. +The town, which formerly sent a member to parliament, is governed by a +bailiff and eight burgesses; and the petty sessions are held here. There +is a manufacture of linseys of some consequence, but generally speaking, +the trade is much decayed. At Tichbourne Hall, about two miles distant, +the seat of Sir H. Tichbourne, there has been bestowed annually, on Lady +Day, from the reign of Henry II. a gift to every applicant of twopence +in bread or money; of which bounty, in some years, no less than +seventeen hundred persons have partaken. + + _Market_, Thursday.--_Mail_ arrives 3-1/2 A.M. departs 11-1/2 + P.M.--_Fairs_, last Thursday in July, and October 17, sheep, + &c.--_Bankers_, Knapp & Co. draw on Barclay & Co.--_Inn_, Swan. + +[Sidenote: Formerly a populous place.] + +[Sidenote: Tichbourne Hall, seat of Sir H. Tichbourne.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+--------------------+---------+------------+--------------+ + 16|Alresford, Old pa|Hants |Southamp. 19|Winchester 7| + 35|Alrewas pa|Stafford |Lichfield 5|Burton 8| + 35|Alewas Hayes dis|Stafford | ... 4| ... 9| + 7|Alsager pa|Chester |Sandbach 5|Congleton 9| + 10|Alsop-le-Dale pa|Derby |Ashbourn 6|Longnor 8| + 22|Alston to|Lancaster|Preston 6|Blackburn 6| + 42|Alstone chap|Worcester|Tewkesbury 5|Evesham 7| + 35|Alstonefield pa & to|Stafford |Ashbourn 6|Longnor 6| + 22|Altcar chap|Lancaster|Ormskirk 6|Liverpool 11| + 8|Alternon pa|Cornwall |Launceston 8|Camelford 8| + 22|Altham to & chap|Lancaster|Burnley 5|Colne 11| + 14|Althorne pa|Essex |Maldon 6|Southminster 3| + 24|Althorp pa & to|Lincoln |Burton 5|Epworth 5| + 27|Althorpe ham|Norfolk |Fakenham 2|N. Walsingh. 3| + 48|Altmawr chap|Brecon |Builth 3|Brecon 12| + 45|Altofts to|W.R. York|Wakefield 4|Leeds 8| + 16|Alton[A] m.t. & pa|Hants |Southamp. 29|Basingstoke 10| + 41|Alton Barnes pa|Wilts |Marlboro 7|Devizes 7| + 12|Alton Pancras pa|Dorset |Dorchester 7|Cerne-Abbas 3| + 41|Alton Priors chap|Wilts |Devizes 7|Marlboro 7| + 7|Altringham[B] m.t.|Chester |Knutsford 7|Stockport 10| + +--+--------------------+---------+------------+--------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+--------------------+----------------------+-----+--------+ + 16|Alresford, Old pa|Alton 10| 57| 459| + 35|Alrewas pa|Bromley 5| 124| 1607| + 35|Alewas Hayes dis ... 6| 124| 77| + 7|Alsager pa|Nantwich 8| 157| 446| + 10|Alsop-le-Dale pa|Winster 6| 145| 61| + 22|Alston to|Clitheroe 9| 222| 1030| + 42|Alstone chap|Pershore 7| 101| 78| + 35|Alstonefield pa & to|Winster 8| 144| 5169| + 22|Altcar chap|Prescott 13| 214| 505| + 8|Alternon pa|Bodmin 16| 222| 1069| + 22|Altham to & chap|Blackburn 6| 212| 413| + 14|Althorne pa|Rochford 6| 42| 352| + 24|Althorp pa & to|Glandford Br 12| 165| 981| + 27|Althorpe ham|Holt 10| 111| 9| + 48|Altmawr chap|Aberedwy 2| 170| 43| + 45|Altofts to|Pontefract 3| 186| 502| + 16|Alton[A] m.t. & pa|Farnham 10| 47| 2742| + 41|Alton Barnes pa|Pewsey 4| 82| 138| + 12|Alton Pancras pa|Sherborne 10| 120| 210| + 41|Alton Priors chap|Pewsey 4| 82| 205| + 7|Altringham[B] m.t.|Manchester 9| 179| 2708| + +--+--------------------+----------------------+-----+--------+ + + +[A] ALTON is seated on the river Wye; it is a pleasant open town, +consisting of three streets, of which the principal contains some +handsome houses. It is governed by a constable appointed by the +magistracy, and a petty sessions are held in the town. The district +around is celebrated for the superiority of its hop plantations, and +possesses manufactures of druggets, serges, and other worsted fabrics, +which are dyed in the wool. It was at Alton that Sir William Waller, in +December 1643, obtained some advantages over the forces of Lord Hopton, +who had taken his post in the town, the regiment commanded by Colonel +Bowles retreated to the church, but not having time to barricade the +doors, threw down their arms, and surrendered; but the Colonel himself, +refusing quarter, was slain on the spot. Amongst the celebrated men to +whom this town has given birth, may be mentioned William de Alton, a +Dominican Friar, who lived in the time of Edward II., and wrote on the +universality of the pollution of mankind by original sin. John Pitts, +the Roman Catholic Biographer, who was born in 1560, and died in 1616; +and William Curtis the Botanist, who was born about 1746, and died in +1799. + + _Market_, Saturday.--_Mail_ arrives 2 A.M. departs 12-3/4 + A.M.--_Fairs_, Saturday before May, sheep and lambs, September 29, + cattle and toys.--Commercial Banking Company, draw on Williams, and + Co.--_Inn_, Swan. + +[Sidenote: Celebrated for hops, and manufactures in serges and other +worsted fabrics.] + +[Sidenote: Church converted to a fortress.] + + +[B] ALTRINGHAM is a very neat market-town in the parish of Bowden, and +hundred of Bucklow, near which the Duke of Bridgewater's canal passes +from the Mersey at Runcorn, to Manchester; it possesses several +factories of yarn, cotton, and worsted, and the vicinity supplies the +markets of Manchester well with fruit and vegetables. This town was +anciently a fee for the barons of Dunham Massey, one of whom granted to +it a guild mercatory in the thirteenth century. + + _Market_, Tuesday.--_Mail_ arrives 4-1/2 A.M., departs 9-1/2 + P.M.--_Fairs_, April 29, August 5, November 22, for cattle and + drapery.--_Inns_, Bowling Green and Unicorn. + +[Sidenote: Yarn, cotton, and worsted manufactories] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+------------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ + 7|Alvanley chap|Chester |Frodsham 3|Warrington 9| + 7|Alvaston to|Chester |Sandbach 9|Middlewich 10| + 10|Alvaston to & chap|Derby |Derby 4|Kegworth 8| + 40|Alvechurch[A] pa|Worcester |Bromsgrove 4|Redditch 4| + 41|Alvediston pa|Wilts |Hindon 7|Wilton 8| + 33|Alvely pa & to|Salop |Bridgenorth 6|Bewdley 8| + 11|Alverdiscott pa|Devon |Bideford 4|Barnstaple 6| + 16|Alverstoke pa|Hants |Gosport 1|Tichfield 6| + 45|Alverthorpe to|W.R. York |Wakefield 1|Leeds 7| + 30|Alverton ham|Notts |Newark 7|Bingham 7| + 31|Alvescott pa|Oxford |Burford 5|Bampton 3| + 15|Alveston[B] pa|Gloucester|Thornbury 3|New Pas 6| + 39|Alveston pa|Warwick |Stratford 2|Warwick 7| + 35|Alveton pa & to|Stafford |Cheadle 4|Uttaxeter 6| + 24|Alvingham pa|Lincoln |Louth 4|Saltfleet 8| + 15|Alvington ham|Gloucester|Blakeney 6|Coleford 6| + 19|Alwalton pa|Hunts |Peterboro 5|Stilton 6| + 11|Alwington pa|Devon |Bideford 4|Torrington 6| + 45|Alwoodley to|W.R. York |Leeds 4|Ottley 5| + 17|Amberly ham|Hereford |Hereford 6|Bromyard 9| + 38|Amberly pa|Sussex |Arundel 4|Petworth 4| + 16|Ambersham, North ti|Hants |Midhurst 3| ... 4| + 16|Ambersham, South ti|Hants | ... 3| ... 4| + 29|Amble to|Northumb |Alnwick 9|Morpeth 11| + 35|Amblecoat ham|Stafford |Stourbridge 1|Dudley 4| + 40|Ambleside[C] m.t. & chap|Westmorlnd|Kendal 13|Helvelyn 8| + +--+------------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+------------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ + 7|Alvanley chap|Chester 10| 188| 341| + 7|Alvaston to|Whitchurch 11| 164| 46| + 10|Alvaston to & chap|Burton 12| 124| 364| + 40|Alvechurch[A] pa|Birmingham 11| 114| 1548| + 41|Alvediston pa|Shaftesbury 9| 92| 239| + 33|Alvely pa & to|Cleobury 9| 133| 836| + 11|Alverdiscott pa|Torrington 4| 200| 334| + 16|Alverstoke pa|Fareham 6| 79| 12637| + 45|Alverthorpe to|Dewsbury 5| 183| 4859| + 30|Alverton ham|Southwell 9| 118| 16| + 31|Alvescott pa|Whitney 6| 74| 361| + 15|Alveston[B] pa|Bristol 9| 119| 800| + 39|Alveston pa|Henley 9| 96| 650| + 35|Alveton pa & to|Ashbourn 8| 42| 2391| + 24|Alvingham pa|Grimsby 18| 153| 292| + 15|Alvington ham|Chepstow 7| 128| 281| + 19|Alwalton pa|Wandsford 5| 80| 294| + 11|Alwington pa|Barnstaple 12| 206| 486| + 45|Alwoodley to|Wetherby 8| 193| 142| + 17|Amberly ham|Leominster 8| 135| 25| + 38|Amberly pa|Worthing 11| 51| 637| + 16|Ambersham, North ti|Haslemere 6| 49| 121| + 16|Ambersham, South ti| ... 6| 49| 183| + 29|Amble to|Felton 6| 301| 247| + 35|Amblecoat ham|Wolverhamp 8| 122| 1157| + 40|Ambleside[C] m.t. & chap|Winanderm 1| 278| 1095| + +--+------------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] ALVECHURCH is situated in the middle division of the hundred of +Halfshire; it was formerly a borough and governed by a bailiff, chosen +annually at the court of the lord of the manor. The church is a large +structure of Anglo Norman architecture, but the tower is modern. It +however contains many ancient monuments: a hospital was founded here by +Nicholas Lewkenor, of Hadsor, in 1580. The bishops of the county +formerly had a palace here. Bishop Brain, Chancellor of England, in the +reign of Edward III., to whom the Black Prince, wrote a circumstantial +account of the battle of Poicters, died here in 1361. Bishop Latimer put +it in repair in the reign of Henry VIII., it seems to have been merely a +timber building. It has not been inhabited by any Bishop since the +restoration, and was nearly a century ago, entirely pulled down, when +the park was converted into farms. The river Arrow, which rises in the +Lickey Hills, runs through the parish, towards Beoley Park, and +Warwickshire; and the Ikenield Street, also passes it. This town +formerly consisted of several streets, but is now fallen into decay, it +however, receives some benefit from the Worcester canal, which passes +it, and joins the Stratford-and-Avon canal, at King's Norton. + +[Sidenote: Church of Anglo Norman architecture.] + +[Sidenote: Dilapidations of time.] + + +[B] ALVESTON. This parish contains the vestiges of two Roman camps; the +one on the top of a hill called Oldbury, near the Severn; the other +called Castle Hill; in both which places, various relics of antiquity +have been discovered. + +[Sidenote: Two Roman camps.] + + +[C] AMBLESIDE is seated on the decline of a hill, at the extremity of +the romantic lake Winandermere, of which a branch passes through the +town. It is held by Horsley, to be the site of the Roman Dictus. It is +scarcely in the power of language to do justice to the romantic beauties +of this neighbourhood; perhaps the most beautiful scenery in England, is +to be found in its vicinity. Here is an extensive manufactory of woollen +cloth. + + _Market_, Wednesday.--_Fairs_, Wednesday after Whit-Sunday, for + horned cattle October 29, ditto and sheep--_Mail_ arrives 9-1/2 A.M., + departs 7 A.M. + +[Sidenote: Site of the Roman Dictus.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County.| Number of Miles From | + +--+--------------------------+--------+-------------+-------------+ + 57|Ambleston pa|Pembroke|Haverfrd.W. 5|Fishguard 3| + 31|Ambrosden pa & to|Oxford |Bicester 2|Aylesbury 14| + 24|Amcotts ham|Lincoln |Burton 4|Glandford 10| + 5|Amersham[A] bo. m. t. & pa|Bucks |Aylesbury 14|Chesham 3| + 41|Amesbury[B] m.t. & pa|Wilts |Salisbury 7|Stone-Henge 3| + +--+--------------------------+--------+-------------+-------------+ + |Dist. | + Map| Names of Places. Number of Miles From |Lond. |Population. + +--+--------------------------+---------------------+-----+--------+ + 57|Ambleston pa|Newport 10| 266| 574| + 31|Ambrosden pa & to|Oxford 12| 51| 914| + 24|Amcotts ham|Epworth 9| 165| 359| + 5|Amersham[A] bo. m. t. & pa|Beaconsfield 5| 26| 2612| + 41|Amesbury[B] m.t. & pa|Andover 14| 77| 544| + +--+--------------------------+---------------------+------+-------+ + + +[A] AMERSHAM, or Agmondesham is situated on the Misbourne, a branch of +the river Colne. The town which is seated in a vale between two wooded +hills, consists of a long street on the road from Uxbridge to Wendover; +it is intersected about the centre, by a cross street from Chesham to +High Wycombe, at the point of which stands the church. The market is +held in the Market House, or Town Hall, built by Sir William Drake, +about 1680; it is a brick building supported by pillars and arches, with +a lanthorn and clock, and said to be the handsomest in the county. +Amersham was a parliamentary borough by prescription, but by the Reform +Bill of 1832, is now disfranchised. The church was extensively repaired +in 1778, in the chancel of which are monuments of the family of the +Bents of Leicestershire, who had a seat in the parish; and a monument of +Henry, son of Sir Patrick Curwen, Bart., who died in 1638; and also +several monuments of the Drake family, in the chancel and the adjoining +mausoleum; among which are those of Montague Gerrard, by _Sheemaker_, +and the wife of the late Mr. Drake, by Henry Cheere. About a mile +northward from the town, is Shardeloes Park, the seat of Sir Thomas +Tyrwhitt Drake: the estate was formerly in the possession of the +Brudenell's, which family terminated in a peeress, and brought +Shardeloes to the Cheynes; afterwards it became the seat of William +Totehill, Esq., where he entertained Queen Elizabeth in one of her +progresses. Francis Drake, of East Sherwin, Surrey, who was one of the +gentlemen of the bedchamber to James I., married Jane, the daughter and +heiress of William Totehill, Esq. The mansion is beautifully situated on +the brow of a hill, overlooking an immense sheet of water, covering +thirty-five acres, and commands a delightful prospect, particularly +towards the east, where the town of Amersham, and the surrounding +eminences, covered with wood, present a very picturesque appearance. The +gardens, formerly much admired for their beauty, were originally formed +by Sir William Drake, about 1666, but have been modernized by Richmond, +for the late proprietor. Here is also a Free Grammar School, the +scholars of which are entitled to three exhibitions in Corpus Christi +College, Oxford, bequeathed by Dr. Challoner, a canon of Windsor, in +1620; and likewise four alms houses, with other minor charities. The +manufactures are chiefly lace, sacking, and all kinds of white cotton, +wrought by machinery; and the markets are well attended. + + _Market_, Tuesday.--_Fairs_, Whit-Monday for horned cattle, and + September 19, for cattle, and statute.--_Inns_, Crown and + Griffin.--_Mail_ arrives 7 A.M., departs 9-1/4 P.M. + +[Sidenote: Town Hall, built by Sir W. Drake, 1680.] + +[Sidenote: Shardeloes park.] + +[Sidenote: Entertainment of Queen Elizabeth.] + +[Sidenote: Picturesque views.] + + +[B] AMESBURY, or Ambresbury, is situated on the river Avon, and is said +to derive its name and origin from an abbey, founded by the British +Prince Ambrosius; which abbey was subsequently changed into a convent of +Benedictine monks, of which some remains are still to be seen. In the +parish, and about two miles from the town, is the celebrated British +monument, known by the name of Stone-henge. Antiquaries differ in their +opinions as to the probable application of this structure; the majority, +however, deem it to have been a druidical temple, or a grand tribunal of +justice. Out of twenty-four enormous stones, of which the outer circular +range appears to have been formed, seventeen are still standing, and +seven on the ground; of the inner circle, eleven out of the nineteen of +which it was formed are still upright, and the remainder prostrate. The +distance of the inner circle from the outer one is about eight feet, +forming a walk between the two of about three hundred feet in +circumference; the stones are from eighteen to twenty feet high, from +six to seven feet broad, and about three feet thick, and there is an +appearance of the whole having been surrounded with a trench, over which +were three passages. There are numerous barrows and tumuli around it, +where many skeletons and military weapons have been discovered. +Conjecture has been at a loss to ascertain the means by which such solid +masses could have been conveyed, and placed in so elevated a situation +without the aid of machinery. It stands near the summit of a hill; even +at the distance of half a mile the appearance is awful; but on a nearer +approach, the eye is still more delighted with the greatness of its +contour. On entering the building, either on foot or horseback, these +ruins fill the mind with astonishment, which it is impossible for the +pen adequately to describe. Other buildings have fallen by +piece-meal--here a single stone is a ruin. As you advance farther, the +greatness of every part, and the singular construction of the whole, +causes additional surprise. Some authors suppose that this noble temple +does not owe its defacement so much to the introduction of Christianity, +as to the rude and barbarous hands of the neighbouring peasantry, who +have carried away the stones for their own purposes. At a house which +occupies part of the ancient nunnery, a society of nuns of St. +Augustine, from Flanders, have taken up their abode, probably attracted +by the supposed sanctity of the situation. Near the town stands the once +celebrated house of the Dukes of Queensbury, built by Inigo Jones, and +subsequently improved by the Earl of Burlington. The neighbourhood +abounds with clay used for making tobacco pipes, and the river Avon +supplies a very much admired species of fish called loach. In the +vicinity is a camp, called Vespasians. It consists of a triangular area +of 39 acres, defended by a ditch and vallum, and bounded on two sides by +the Avon. This may have been occupied by the Romans, but its +construction and position indicate a British origin. + + _Market_, Friday.--_Mail_ arrives 11 P.M., departs 4 A.M.--_Fair_, + May 17, June 22, December 18, for horses, sheep, and horned + cattle.--_Inn_, George. + +[Sidenote: Founded by the British Prince Ambrosius.] + +[Sidenote: Stone-henge.] + +[Sidenote: Its awful appearance.] + +[Sidenote: Nunnery of St. Augustine.] + +[Sidenote: Camp of 39 acres.] + + Map| Names of Places.| County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------+----------+-------------+------------+ + 47|Almwich[A] pa|Anglesey |Beaumaris 20|Llanerch 6| + 43|Amotherby to|N.R. York |New Malton 3|Pickering 7| + 15|Ampney Cruci pa|Gloucester|Cirencester 3|Northleach 9| + +--+-----------------+----------+-------------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places.| Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------+------------------------+-----+------+ + 47|Almwich[A] pa|Holyhead 21| 261| 6285| + 43|Amotherby to|Helmsley 11| 221| 246| + 15|Ampney Cruci pa|Lechlade 9| 87| 599| + +--+-----------------+------------------------+-----+------+ + + +[A] ALMWICH, a seaport town in the parish of the same name, in the +hundred of Twerclyn. It is situated on the north coast of the Island of +Anglesey; and from a small village (in consequence of the discovery of a +rich copper-mine in the Parys mountain) has been augmented into a +considerable town: the appearance of this celebrated mountain is very +rude; it is bare of vegetation, in consequence of the suffocating fumes +which issue from it. The Romans are supposed to have obtained copper ore +from this place, as many vestiges of what, it is imagined, were their +operations, are still traceable. The great riches of the site were not, +however, discovered until March 2, 1768, by the lessees of Sir Nicholas +Bayley, afterwards Earl of Uxbridge; and equally successful was the Rev. +Edward Hughes, proprietor of another part of the same ridge. The +substance of the mountain being ore, it has not been worked in the usual +way, by shafts and levels, but by direct excavation. "Nature," Mr. +Pennant observes, "hath been profuse in bestowing her mineral favours on +this spot, for above the copper ore, and not more than three-quarters of +a yard beneath the common soil, is a bed of yellowish greasy clay, from +one to four yards thick, containing lead ore, and yielding from six +hundred to a thousand pounds weight of lead from one ton; and one ton of +the metal yields not less than fifty-seven ounces of silver. Mixed with +the earth are frequently certain parts, of the colour of cinnabar; +whether these are symptomatic of the sulphurous arsenical silver ores, +or of quick-silver, I will not pretend to decide. Something interferes +with the successful smelting of this earth in the great, insomuch that +it has not yet been of that profit to the adventurers, which might +reasonably be expected from the crucible assays of it." From this +mountain arises a mineral water, which turns the syrup of violets red, +without any signs of chalybeate. To enumerate the mineral substances +found from time to time would prove a tedious employment, and perhaps an +unimportant one. The following are the principal and most useful:--1. +Yellow sulphurated copper ore; 2. Native copper, in small quantities; 3. +Sulphate of copper, both chrystallized and in solution; 4. Sulphate of +lead, containing a small portion of silver; 5. Black ore, containing +copper with galenea, calamine, and some silver; 6. Native sulphur. Not +far from Parys Mountain is the port whence the ore brought from the +mines is transported to Liverpool and Swansea; it is a chasm between two +rocks, large enough to receive thirty vessels, each 200 tons. The two +companies employ fifteen brigs, from 100 to 150 tons burden, besides +sloops and other craft. The articles exported from these copper mines +are principally a coarse copper from the smelting-house, a richer copper +ore, dried precipitate of copper from the vitriol pits, refined sulphur, +ochre, alum, and green vitriol. Though much improved by the copper +companies, this port is so exposed to the swell of the ocean, as to make +it difficult and dangerous of access, during the prevalence of high +northerly winds. + + _Fair_, November 12. + +[Sidenote: From this place the Romans obtained copper ore.] + +[Sidenote: Lead ore which yields silver also.] + +[Sidenote: Various minerals.] + +[Sidenote: The port, a chasm between the rocks.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+---------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ + 15|Ampney Down[A] pa|Gloucester|Cirencester 6|Cricklade 3| + 15|Ampney, St. Mary,} | | | | + | or Ashbrook } pa|Ditto |Cirencester 4|Fairford 5| + 15|Ampney, St. Peter |Ditto |Cirencester 4|Fairford 4| + 43|Ampleforth pa & to|N.R. York |Helmsley 4|New Malton 13| + 16|Amport pa|Hants |Andover 5|Ludgershall 5| + 3|Ampthill[B] m.t. & pa|Bedford |Bedford 8|Woburn 7| + 36|Ampton pa|Suffolk |Bury 5|Ixworth 5| + +--+---------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+---------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ + 15|Ampney Down[A] pa|Fairford 4| 85| 463| + 15|Ampney, St. Mary,} | | | | + | or Ashbrook } pa|Bibury 3| 88| 115| + 15|Ampney, St. Peter |Cricklade 5| 86| 180| + 43|Ampleforth pa & to|York 18| 223| 623| + 16|Amport pa|Salisbury 13| 69| 731| + 3|Ampthill[B] m.t. & pa|Toddington 7| 46| 1688| + 36|Ampton pa|Thetford 8| 76| 110| + +--+---------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ + + +[A] AMPNEY DOWN. The church of this place is very curious, and is said +to have been built by the Knights Templars, about the year 1260. Under +the window at the south-end of the transept, is the tomb of Sir Nicholas +de Villiers and his lady, with their effigies, represented under an +arch. The knight is represented as a crusader, in mail and surtout, with +his legs crossed, his feet resting on a lion, and his right hand on the +hilt of his sword; on his left arm is a shield bearing the Cross of St. +George, charged with five escalop-shells. This figure is of hard blue +stone; that of the lady is of free-stone, and much mutilated. Below the +effigies of the knight is a mutilated inscription in the Saxon +character. An ancient mansion, built by the family of the Hungerfords, +in the reign of Henry the Eighth, was repaired and modernized, as to its +exterior, a few years ago. It belongs, with the manor, to the family of +Eliot, of Port Eliot, in Cornwall. + +[Sidenote: The church built by the Knights Templars.] + + +[B] AMPTHILL is situated between two hills in the centre of the county. +Here is an obelisk of Portland stone, forming a receptacle for a pump; +and also a Gothic cross, which was erected in 1744, to the memory of +Catherine of Arragon, by the Earl of Upper Ossory, who was then +proprietor of Ampthill Park, at a former period the residence of that +ill-treated Queen. This park, which lies to the west of the town, is now +the seat of Lord Holland; it was constituted a royal domain by Henry +VIII., who conferred a name on the annexed estates, the "Honour of +Ampthill;" the old castle in which Queen Catherine resided, stood on a +more elevated ground than the present mansion, which is a magnificent +structure, with wings, and a flight of steps leading to a handsome hall; +the park, which is now united with that of Houghton, is spacious, and +presents several most delightful prospects. At the entrance of Ampthill +Park there is a pear tree, under which it is reported that Sir Philip +Sydney wrote a part of his Arcadia. + + _Mail_ arrives 6 A.M.. departs 8-1/2 P.M.--_Fairs_, May 4, and + November 30, for cattle.--_Inn_, White Hart. + +[Sidenote: Under a pear-tree in Ampthill park Sir Philip Sydney wrote +part of his Arcadia.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+--------------------+---------+------------+-------------+ + 57|Amroth[A] pa|Pembroke |Narbeth 6|Tenby 6| + 18|Amwell, Great[B] pa|Hertford |Ware 1|Hoddesdon 3| + 18|Amwell, Little chap|Hertford |Ware 1|Hoddesdon 3| + 24|Ancaster[C] pa|Lincoln |Grantham 6|Sleaford 8| + 13|Ancroft chap|Durham |Berwick 6|Coldstream 10| + 24|Anderby pa|Lincoln |Alford 6|Spilsby 10| + 32|Anderson, or | | | | + | Anderstone pa|Dorset |Blandford 7|Bere Regis 3| + 7|Anderton pa|Chester |Northwich 2|Warrington 9| + 22|Anderton pa|Lancaster|Wigan 3|Bolton 4| + 36|Andover[D] m.t. & pa|Hants |Salisbury 18|Stockbridge 7| + +--+--------------------+---------+------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+--------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+ + 57|Amroth[A] pa|Llaugharne 10| 251| 654| + 18|Amwell, Great[B] pa|Hertford 3| 20| 1321| + 18|Amwell, Little chap|Hertford 3| 20| 369| + 24|Ancaster[C] pa|Newark 14| 116| 491| + 13|Ancroft chap|Wooler 10| 253| 1384| + 24|Anderby pa|Saltfleet 12| 142| 217| + 32|Anderson, or | | | | + | Anderstone pa|Poole 12| 110| 54| + 7|Anderton pa||Knutsford 6| 175| 327| + 22|Anderton pa|Chorley 5| 201| 343| + 36|Andover[D] m.t. & pa|Whitchurch 7| 64| 4843| + +--+--------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] AMROTH. The castle of Amroth, now modernized, from the house +formerly called Eare Wear, was in the 15th century, a settlement of the +Elliott's. The present proprietor is Captain Ackland, by purchase, from +a female representative of the Elliotts. The most judiciously +assimilating additions have been made so as to give it every appendage +of convenience and luxury. The antique porch is nicely preserved. The +conservatory and grapery are entered from the dining-rooms, which was +once a vaulted roofed ale cellar, or castle prison. A portion of this +vault remains unaltered. From the lawn is a beautiful and interesting +view of Tenby. The church of Amroth, on the road to Ludchurch, is +situated on a limestone rock, which has been reduced on every side, and +is remarkable for a curiously disposed tower. + +[Sidenote: View of Tenby.] + + +[B] GREAT AMWELL is supposed to have derived its name from Emma's Well, +a pure water-fountain that issues from a hill, and forms one of the +sources of the New River. Here is a monument erected by Mr. Milne, to +the ill-requited Sir Hugh Middleton, in a small islet formed by the said +river. Sir Hugh, notwithstanding the assistance afforded him by +Parliament, and the City of London, ruined himself by procuring supplies +of water to the metropolis. Great mystery envelopes the latter period of +his life. It is traditionally reported that he retired to the village of +Kemberton, near Shiffnall, in Shropshire, where he resided some time in +great indigence, under the assumed name of Raymond, and it is said that +during such residence he was actually employed in paving the streets. +The poet Warner, author of "Albion's England," lies interred here. The +church is situated on an eminence, the picturesque beauty of which has +been justly celebrated by the admirable poet, usually denominated Scott +of Amwell, from his residence in the village, and the title of his poem. + +[Sidenote: Emma's Well, one of sources of the New River] + +[Sidenote: Indigence of Sir Hugh Middleton.] + + +[C] ANCASTER. This parish is situated on the great Roman road, called +Ermin-street, and bears strong evidence of having been a Roman station; +many authors unite to fix here the ancient Causennae. It occupies a low +situation, and at the north end flows a small brook. From the vestiges +which remain of military works it has certainly been a place of great +strength. A great number of coins, and other antiquities, have been +found here in such quantities, as to become a source of considerable +emolument to the inhabitants of the place; so much so, that at one time +many became extensive dealers in them. These coins are of various +Emperors. Several mosaic pavements have also been discovered here. It is +highly probable from these circumstances, that Ancaster was the Causennae +of Antoninus. About the town are several quarries of stone, which is +found very near the surface. Ancaster once gave the title of Duke to the +head of the Bertie family, but that Dukedom is now extinct. + +[Sidenote: Mosaic pavements.] + + +[D] ANDOVER, situated on the river Anton, is supposed to have been the +Andaoreon of the Romans; and this opinion seems to have been +countenanced by the remains of several ancient encampments in the +neighbourhood, and by the Roman road, which runs from Winchester to +Cirencester, and passes through the town. The antiquity of the +corporation is as remote as the reign of John, but the present charter +was granted by Queen Elizabeth; the town is extensive, and two of the +streets are handsome and wide. There is a spacious town-hall, supported +by arches, under which the weekly market is held. The church, situated +at the north of the town, is a large Gothic building, consisting of a +nave, side aisles, and chancel, with a transept on the north, and a low +tower rising from the centre; it existed in the time of the Conqueror, +and is dedicated to St. Mary. Within four miles of the town is held the +great annual fair of Weyhill, which, as it lasts for a week, causes much +circulation of money in Andover. In addition to the many small Roman +encampments in the immediate neighbourhood, there is a very large one on +the summit of Bury Hill, about two miles to the S.S.W. + + _Market_, Saturday.--_Mail_ arrives 2-3/4 A.M., departs 11-3/4 + P.M.--_Fairs_, Friday and Saturday after Mid-Lent, for cheese, + horses, and leather; May 17, November 13, for sheep, horses, leather, + and cheese.--_Bankers_, T. & W. Heath, draw on Masterman and + Co.--_Inns_, Star and Garter, and White Hart. + +[Sidenote: Weyhill Fair.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-------------------------+-----------+-----------+--------------+ + 54|Andrew, St. pa|Glamorgan |Cardiff 5|Llandaff 5| + 54|Andrew, St. Minor pa|Glamorgan |Cowbridge 3|Bridgend 6| + 36|Andrew, St. Ilketshall pa|Suffolk |Bungay 4|Beccles 4| + 34|Angersleigh pa|Somerset |Taunton 4|Wellington 4| + 29|Angerton (High) to|Northumb |Morpeth 9|Hartburn 1| + 29|Angerton, (Low) to|Northumb | ... 9| ... 2| + 57|Angle pa|Pembroke |Pembroke 9|Milford by W 6| + 47|Anglesey, Isle of[A] |North Wales| | | + 22|Anglezarke to|Lancaster |Bolton 6|Chorley 5| + +--+-------------------------+-----------+-----------+--------------+ + |Dist. + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-------------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+ + 54|Andrew, St. pa|Cowbridge 8| 165| 474| + 54|Andrew, St. Minor pa|Cardiff 15| 175| 16| + 36|Andrew, St. Ilketshall pa|Halesworth 7| 106| 512| + 34|Angersleigh pa|Ilminster 11| 145| 54| + 29|Angerton (High) to|Rothbury 12| 290| 64| + 29|Angerton, (Low) to| ... 13| 289| 55| + 57|Angle pa|The Lightho. 4| 264| 458| + 47|Anglesey, Isle of[A] | | | 48328| + 22|Anglezarke to|Blackburn 9| 203| 168| + +--+-------------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+ + + +[A] ANGLESEY (Isle and County of), forms one of the six counties of +North Wales, and is situated at the north western extremity of the +principality. It is watered on three sides by the Irish sea, and +separated on the eastern side from Caernarvonshire, by the serpentine +strait of Menai, from three-quarters to half a mile broad. Its form is +irregular, being indented with many small bays and creeks, which gave it +some maritime importance under its native princes. It has received +numerous appellations from the ancient Britons; the most approved of +which was Mon, signifying remote, Latinised by the Romans into Mona, the +"nurse of Wales," from its fruitfulness; and changed by the Saxons into +Angles-ey, or the Englishman's Island. It was the principal +establishment of the Druids in Britain, until this island was invaded by +the Romans, A.D. 59, under Suetonius Paulinus, who ordered their groves +to be cut down, and stationed a garrison to insure obedience. The +climate of Anglesey is mild, and the sea-breezes render the weather more +temperate here than in the other counties of North Wales, although from +the same cause it is less clear: that portion of the island which +borders on the Menai, the site of the terrific Druidical groves, is +richly wooded. The interior, on the contrary, owing to the great +scarcity of fuel, has been rendered nearly devoid of wood; and the +greater part of the island possesses little of hill and dale beyond a +gentle and undiversified undulation of surface; its general aspect is +uninviting and cheerless. The land, however, is good, and under proper +management very productive, as respects both tillage and pasturage. +About 25,000 head of black cattle (exclusive of sheep and hogs), are +annually supplied to the English market, where they are much admired for +their flavour and tenderness, occasioned by the short bite of the +pasturage on which they feed. Before the erection of the suspension +bridge, the passage of the numerous droves of cattle at the five +authorized ferries of the Menai, was a very extraordinary sight; they +were made to swim over, guided by the drovers in boats. Butter, cheese, +hides, tallow, wax, and honey, form also great articles of trade here; +throughout the island there are but few manufactures of any importance. +The shore abounds in some of the most highly prized marine productions, +and is especially celebrated for the variety and beauty of its sea +shells. Anglesey is as interesting to the antiquary, as to the natural +philosopher. The ancient British vestiges are very numerous; comprising +no less than twenty-eight cromlechs, or Druidical altars, together with +circles, monumental stones, entrenchments, and other remains of a +similar description, both British and Roman, which will receive +attention in their proper places; several of the parish churches (of +which the whole, seventy-four, stand near the coast), with various +monastic remains, also deserve examination on the score of antiquity. +Mona, now Anglesey, was the chief seat of the Druids, A.D. 59. Suetonius +Paulinus, in the reign of Nero, was invested with the command of an +army, and prepared to signalize his name by victories over those +barbarians. Finding this island the chief seat of the Druids, he +resolved to attack it, and bring into subjection a place which was the +centre of their superstition, and which afforded protection to all their +baffled forces. The Britons endeavoured to obstruct his landing on this +sacred island, both by the force of their arms, and the terrors of their +religion. The women and priests were intermingled with the soldiers upon +the shore; and running about with flaming torches in their hands, and +tossing their disheveled hair, they struck greater terror into the +astonished Romans by their howlings, cries and execrations, than the +real danger from the armed forces was able to inspire. But Suetonius, +exhorting his troops to disregard the menaces of a superstition which he +despised, impelled them to the attack, drove the Britons off the field, +burned the Druids in the same fires which those priests had prepared for +their captive enemies; destroyed all their consecrated groves and +altars--and having thus triumphed over the religion of the Britons, he +thought his future progress would be easy in reducing the people to +subjection; but in this expectation he was disappointed. The +circumference of the island is seventy-six miles. The sea-passage from +Holyhead to Dublin, is about sixty miles, which is now traversed by +steam packets daily. Next to agriculture, and the rearing of cattle, +mining affords most employment to the labouring population; a great +number of persons are also engaged in fishing and catching wild-fowl, +round the coast. It comprises 200,000 acres of land. + +[Sidenote: Originally the principal establishment of the Druids.] + +[Sidenote: Annual exportation of cattle.] + +[Sidenote: Prized for its marine productions.] + +[Sidenote: Invasion of the Romans] + +[Sidenote: The Druids burnt in the fires they had prepared for their +enemies.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------------+----------+---------------+-------------+ + 37 |Agmering pa|Sussex |L. Hampton 4|Arundel 4| + 46 |Angram to|N.R. York |Tadcaster 3|Wetherby 7| + 43 |Angram Grange to|N.R. York |Easingwold 4|Thirsk 7| + 29 |Anick to|Northumb |Hexham 2|Corbridge 3| + 29 |Anick Grange to|Northumb | ... 2| ... 3| + 46 |Anlaby to|E.R. York |Hull 4|Beverley 7| + 27 |Anmer pa|Norfolk |Castle Rising 6|Burnham M. 10| + 30 |Annesley pa|Nottingham|Mansfield 6|Nottingham 10| + 39 |Ansley[A] pa|Warwick |Nuneaton 5|Atherstone 3| + 35 |Anslow, or Annesley to|Stafford |Burton-on-T. 3|Uttoxeter 9| + +--+----------------------+----------+---------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------------+--------------------------+-------------+ + 37 |Agmering pa|Steyning 8| 58| 928| + 46 |Angram to|York 6| 194| 67| + 43 |Angram Grange to|Borobridge 11| 217| 28| + 29 |Anick to|Newcastle 18| 278| 163| + 29 |Anick Grange to| ... 18| 278| 36| + 46 |Anlaby to|South Cave 7| 171| | + 27 |Anmer pa|Lynn 11| 106| 132| + 30 |Annesley pa|Newsted Ab. 3| 134| 402| + 39 |Ansley[A] pa|Coventry 9| 101| 773| + 35 |Anslow, or Annesley to|Abbots Brom 8| 128| 270| + +--+----------------------+--------------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] ANSLEY became the property of the Ludford family, by purchase, in +1613. Ansley Hall, an irregular but commodious residence, the manorial +seat of John Newdigate Ludford, Esq., is situated in an extensive park, +rich in natural and artificial beauties, containing a hermitage erected +with the materials of an ancient oratory, in which Warton, who visited +it in 1758, left his beautiful verses, beginning:-- + + Beneath this stony roof reclined, + I sooth to peace my pensive mind. + +On an insulated spot is also a Chinese temple, or cell, which contains a +monument of the Purefoy family, removed from Caldecote Church in 1796. +Ansley church has some remains of Saxon and early Norman architecture, +and a square tower of remarkable beauty at the west end. + +[Sidenote: A hermitage and Chinese temple.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+---------------------+----------+--------------+--------------+ + 18|Anstey[A] pa|Herts |Barkway 3|Buntingford 4| + 23|Anstey chap|Leicester |Leicester 4|Mount Sorrel 5| + 39|Anstey pa|Warwick |Coventry 5|Nuneaton 6| + 41|Anstey pa|Wilts |Hindon 5|Shaftesbury 6| + 11|Anstey, East pa|Devon |Dulverton 3|S. Moulton 10| + 11|Anstey, West pa|Devon | ... 4| ... 9| + 45|Anston to & pa|W.R. York |Worksop 6|Tickhill 7| + 8|Anthony, St. pa|Cornwall |Falmouth 5|Helston 8| + 8|Anthony, St. pa|Cornwall |St. Mawes 2|Falmouth 3| + 27|Antingham pa|Norfolk |N. Walsham 3|Cromer 6| + 8|Anthony, West, or St.| | | | + | Jacobs[B] pa|Cornwall |Devonport 4|Saltash 4| + 7|Antrobus to|Chester |Northwich 4|Warrington 8| + 24|Anwick pa|Lincoln |Sleaford 5|Tattershall 8| + 28|Apethorpe chap|Northamp |Wandesford 4|Stamford 7| + 24|Apley chap|Lincoln |Wragby 2|Lincoln 10| + 15|Apperley ham|Gloucester|Tewkesbury 4|Cheltenham 6| + 24|Appleby[C] pa|Lincoln |Glandford B. 7|Burton 5| + +--+---------------------+----------+--------------+--------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+---------------------+-------------------------+-----+--------+ + 18|Anstey[A] pa|Stocking Pel. 4| 33| 417| + 23|Anstey chap|Loughboro' 8| 100| 850| + 39|Anstey pa|Rugby 10| 93| 268| + 41|Anstey pa|Wilton 9| 95| 348| + 11|Anstey, East pa|Bampton 6| 169| 166| + 11|Anstey, West pa| ... 7| 169| 226| + 45|Anston to & pa|Sheffield 10| 152| 776| + 8|Anthony, St. pa|Lizard Point 12| 275| 300| + 8|Anthony, St. pa|Truro 9| 270| 144| + 27|Antingham pa|Aylesham 6| 126| 248| + 8|Anthony, West, or St.| | | | + | Jacobs[B] pa|St. Germains 3| 123| 3099| + 7|Antrobus to|Frodsham 11| 179| 476| + 24|Anwick pa|Metheringh 9| 120| 235| + 28|Apethorpe chap|Oundle 6| 84| 297| + 24|Apley chap|Horncastle 12| 143| 152| + 15|Apperley ham|Glocester 6| 104| 401| + 24|Appleby[C] pa|Barton 8| 163| 517| + +--+---------------------+-------------------------+-----+--------+ + + +[A] ANSTEY. In this village are the remains of a castle, built in the +reign of the Conqueror, by Eustace, Earl of Boulogne, for the purpose of +keeping the English in greater subjection; it was demolished in the time +of Henry III., and the parish church formed of its materials. The moat +surrounding the mount upon which the keep was built, with additional +works made in the reign of King John, still remains. In the south aisle +of the church is an ancient monument, with the effigies, as +traditionally reported, of Richard de Anstre the founder. The Roman road +called Ermine Street, passes through this village. + +[Sidenote: Ruins of a Castle.] + + +[B] ST. ANTHONY, consists of the two manors of East and West Anthony, +formerly in the Dawney family, but now in that of the Carews. East +Anthony House, the seat of the Right Hon. Reginald Pole Carew, M.P., is +situated on a branch of the Lynher Creek, nearly opposite Trematon +Castle. It is a large square building, of Pentuan stone, finished by +Gibbs the architect, about the year 1721. This mansion contains a +respectable collection of old portraits, amongst which is one of Richard +Carew, the historian, with a device of a diamond on an anvil, with a +hammer suspended over it. The church contains several monuments well +deserving attention. Besides numerous memorials of the Carew family, +there is in the chancel, the form of a lady, on a brass plate, beneath +an elegant gothic canopy, in memory of Margery Arundell, who died Lady +of the Manor in the early part of the fifteenth century. Sir Alexander +Carew, a gentleman of large property, and one of the representatives of +the county, at the commencement of the civil wars, being averse to the +measures of the court, and having been intrusted by Parliament with the +command of St. Michael's Island and Fort, he attempted to deliver them +into the King's possession; but the design being discovered to the +Parliament, he was suddenly seized and carried prisoner to Plymouth, and +there the women were so enraged against him, that it was with difficulty +he was rescued from their vengeance. From thence he was conveyed by sea +to London, where he was expelled by the Commons, and being tried by a +court-martial, was found guilty and beheaded on Tower Hill, December 23, +1644. WEST ANTHONY, or St. Jacobs. This is a very pleasing +village, which has risen into importance from its proximity to the towns +of Devonport, Plymouth and Stonehouse; it is a favourite residence of +the officers connected with the dockyards and navy at these important +towns. Near this place is Mount Edgecomb, the residence of the Earl of +that title; it is celebrated for the beauty of its situation, near the +sea, and being a much admired stroll for the inhabitants of, and +visitors to Plymouth. + +[Sidenote: Mount Edgecomb.] + +[Sidenote: Seat of the Carew family.] + +[Sidenote: Sir A. Crew beheaded.] + + +[C] APPLEBY is situate on the river Ancholme, which rises in the wolds +near Market Raisin, whence, it takes a northerly direction near +Glandford Bridge, it is navigable to the Humber for barges of small +burden. That very ancient British road--the Ermine-street--passes +through the village. This line of road was afterwards adopted by the +Romans; it enters the county to the west of Stamford, and preserving +nearly a due northerly direction, passing through the city of Lincoln, +continues its course to the banks of the Humber; it is cast up to a +great height, and is in some places seven yards in breadth. + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+------------------------+-------------+--------+-------------+ + 10|Appleby, G. & Lit.[A] pa|Derb. & Leic.|Ashby 6|M. Bosworth 7| + 40|Appleby[B] m.t. & pa| Westmor |Brough 8|Penrith 14| + +--+------------------------+-------------+--------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+------------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+ + 10|Appleby, G. & Lit.[A] pa|Atherstone 7| 112| 1150| + 40|Appleby[B] m.t. & pa|Orton 9| 270| 1459| + +--+------------------------+---------------------+------+-------+ + + +[A] APPLEBY, a populous village, which connects the four counties of +Leicester, Derby, Stafford, and Warwick. Here is a free grammar school +for 100 boys, founded by Sir John Moore, in 1697. + + +[B] APPLEBY. This town is situated on the river Eden, by which it is +almost surrounded, and by some antiquaries it is supposed to occupy the +site of the Roman station Aballaba. It has been the county town since +the reign of Edward the Confessor. It is governed by a Mayor, Aldermen, +and capital Burgesses; the Mayor having authority to arrest for any sum +without limitation. Appleby did send two representatives to Parliament, +but has been disfranchised by the Reform Bill. It has many times been +assailed by the Scots, who burnt it in 1388; and in 1598 it suffered +seriously by a pestilence, from which time it has never recovered its +former size and consequence. The town at present consists of one broad +street, built irregularly on the slope of a hill, at the upper part of +which stands the castle, which is of early Norman, if not of Saxon +origin; and at the lower end the parish church. The ancient market +houses or cloisters, were pulled down in 1811, and a handsome gothic +building, erected by Smirke, in their stead. Here are also a town-hall +and gaol; and at each end of the town stands a stone obelisk or cross. +Appleby received charters from Hen. II., John, and Hen. III., all which +were given up to James II., since which period it has subsisted as a +borough by prescription. Crackenthorpe Hall, a manorial residence in +this parish, was from the earliest period of authenticated record, the +mansion of the Machels, a Saxon family, who eventually alienated it to +the late Earl of Lonsdale. Near this seat, which is at present +neglected, is a Roman camp 300 yards long and 150 yards broad, with +three entrances, and a watch tower or fort, at the distance of bow-shot. +Appleby has produced some eminent characters, among whom should be +noticed Thomas de Veripont, Bishop of Carlisle, in 1255. Thomas de +Appleby, Bishop of Carlisle, in 1363. Roger de Appleby, Bishop of +Ossory, in 1404; and Dr. Christopher Potter, Provost of Queen's College, +Oxford, Prebendary of Windsor, and Dean of Worcester; the last named was +vice-chancellor of Oxford when the civil wars of Charles I. broke out, +and sent all his plate to the king, stating that he would drink as +Diogenes did, from the hollow of his hand, before his majesty should +want. Here is a free Grammar School, richly endowed, which is open to +all the children of the town upon paying 2s. 6d. per quarter to the +Master; and also five scholarships, founded by the Earl of Thanet at +Queen's College, Oxford, and entitled to participate in five exhibitions +of L60. per annum at the same college, on the foundation of Lady +Elizabeth Hastings. An Hospital for thirteen widows, founded by the +celebrated Anne, Countess of Pembroke and Montgomery, heiress of the +Cliffords, the possessors of the castle for several centuries; by the +marriage of whose eldest daughter it became the property of the family +of Tufton, Earl of Thanet. The main portion of the present castle which +is of a square form, was built in 1686 out of the ruins of a part of the +former, by Thomas, Earl of Thanet. Appleby Castle survived the attacks +of the Parliamentary Army, under the influence of its owner, the +aforesaid Countess Anne, but was compelled to yield in 1648. The church +of St. Lawrence, which was partly built by the same spirited lady, +contains a noble monument to her memory. The market is one of the best +supplied with corn in its vicinity. It however possesses but little +trade, and no manufacture of importance. + + _Market_, Saturday--_Mail_ arrives at 1-1/2 A.M., departs 11-3/4 + P.M.--_Fairs_, October 7 and 8, for sheep, &c; November 24, for + sheep and oxen; November 5, for pigs. + +[Sidenote: Burnt by the Scots.] + +[Sidenote: Eminent characters born here.] + +[Sidenote: Appleby castle.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-------------------------+----------+-------------+---------------+ + 11|Appledore pa|Devon |Bideford 2|Torrington 11| + 21|Appledore[A] m.t. & pa|Kent |Tenterden 4|New Romney 7| + 38|Appledram pa|Sussex |Chichester 2|Portsmouth 16| + 16|Appledurcombe ham|Hants |Newport 6|Niton 3| + 5|Appleford chap|Berks |Abingdon 4|Dorchester 3| + 16|Appleshaw,[B] vil. & chap|Hants |Ludgershall 4|Andover 5| + 40|Applethwaite[C] to|Westmor |Ambleside 5|Bowness 3| + 4|Appleton[D] to & pa|Berks |Abingdon 5|Oxford 6| + 22|Appleton to|Lancashire|Warrington 7|Prescot 5| + 44|Appleton to|N.R. York |Catterick 3|Richmond 4| + 43|Appleton-le-Moors to|N.R. York |Pickering 5|Kirkby 3| + 43|Appleton-le-Street to|N.R. York |New Malton 4|Pickering 7| + 46|Appleton Roebuck to|N.R. York |York 7|Selby 8| + 44|Appleton on Wisk to|N.R. York |Yarm 7|Northallerton 7| + 30|Appletree ham|Northamp |Banbury 7|Daventry 10| + 44|Appletrewick[E] to|N.R. York |Skipton 8|Settle 16| + +--+-------------------------+----------+-------------+---------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-------------------------+------------------------+-----+---------+ + 11|Appledore pa|Barnstaple 7| 204| 1450| + 21|Appledore[A] m.t. & pa|Rye 6| 61| 698| + 38|Appledram pa|Petersfield 13| 64| 188| + 16|Appledurcombe ham|Shanklin 3| 91| ...| + 5|Appleford chap|Wallingford 6| 52| 179| + 16|Appleshaw,[B] vil. & chap|Salisbury 13| 68| 355| + 40|Applethwaite[C] to|Kendall 8| 270| 417| + 4|Appleton[D] to & pa|Wantage 10| 61| 447| + 22|Appleton to|Liverpool 11| 195| 1439| + 44|Appleton to|Bedale 6| 228| 83| + 43|Appleton-le-Moors to|Helmsley 8| 231| 269| + 43|Appleton-le-Street to|York 18| 218| 860| + 46|Appleton Roebuck to|Tadcaster 5| 189| 638| + 44|Appleton on Wisk to|Darlington 11| 232| 553| + 30|Appletree ham|Southam 9| 77| 83| + 44|Appletrewick[E] to|Burnsall 1| 224| 425| + +--+-------------------------+------------------------+-----+---------+ + + +[A] APPLEDORE is situated on the banks of the river Rother, in the +hundred of Blackburn, lathe of Scray, and was a place of some maritime +consequence in the reign of Alfred. The town is at present chiefly +inhabited by graziers and others employed in the marshes, to which it is +very near. The church is built on the foundation of a castle or fort, +which had been erected by the Danes, who sailed up to this town in the +year 893. + + _Market_. Tuesday.--_Fairs_. Jan. 11, and 4th Mon. in June for cattle + and pedlery. + +[Sidenote: Principally inhabited by Graziers.] + + +[B] APPLESHAW.--Great Show Fair, Friday and Saturday before Weyhill +Fair. Nov. 4 and 5, all for sheep. + + +[C] APPLETHWAITE. All the fisheries on the lovely lake of Winandermere +belong to the inhabitants of this thriving village, and subject only to +a tithe of the fish caught to the Rector of Winandermere, who makes +composition for the same, by a sum prescribed by each boat. The red +char, esteemed so great a delicacy, is said to be peculiar to the lakes +of Winandermere and Ullswater; this delicious fish is taken in nets +during the months of October and May, when they are potted and sent to +different parts of the kingdom. About the beginning of September a grand +regatta is given on the lucid waters of the lake, attended by families +of the first distinction. + +[Sidenote: Lake of Winandermere.] + +[Sidenote: Grand Regatta.] + + +[D] APPLETON. This village was the birth place of the famous physician +and chemist, Edmund Dickinson, who was born in the year 1624. At 20 +years of age he went to the university of Oxford; in 1655, (he published +a work to prove) that the Greeks borrowed the story of the Pythian +Apollo, and all that related to the Oracle of Delphos, from the Holy +Scriptures. In consequence of some excellent cures, he was appointed +Physician to Charles II., and afterwards became a convert to the +doctrine of the Transmutation of Metals; and wrote a work, the object of +which is to prove, "that the method and mode of the creation of the +universe, (according to the principles of true philosophy,) are strictly +and concisely laid down by Moses." He died in 1707. + +[Sidenote: Birth place of the learned Edmund Dickinson] + + +[E] APPLETREWICK. In this village was born William Craven, the founder +of the noble House of Craven, who by his industry and good conduct arose +from an humble station to the dignity of Lord Mayor of London--a proof +of the advantages attendant on industry. + +[Sidenote: House of Craven.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-------------------------------+---------+-----------+--------------+ + 4|Arborfield[A] to|Berks |Wokingham 5|Swallowfield 3| + 22|Arbury to|Lancaster|Newton 3|Warrington 2| + 7|Arclid to|Chester |Sandbach 2|Congleton 5| + 45|Arden to|W.R. York|Thirsk 10|Stokesley 11| + 38|Ardingley[B] pa|Sussex |Cuckfield 4|E. Grinstead 7| + 4|Ardington pa|Berks |Wantage 3|Abingdon 8| + 14|Ardleigh pa|Essex |Colchester 5|Manningtree 4| + 31|Ardley pa|Oxford |Bicester 4|Middleton 3| + 45|Ardsley to|W.R. York|Barnsley 2|Wakefield 11| + 45|Ardsley,[C] East & West to & pa|W.R. York|Wakefield 5|Leeds 6| + +--+-------------------------------+---------+-----------+--------------+ + |Dist.|Popul + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|-ation. + +--+-------------------------------+---------------------+-----+--------+ + 4|Arborfield[A] to|Reading 4| 36| 268| + 22|Arbury to|Liverpool 18| 186| 280| + 7|Arclid to|Middlewich 6| 162| 79| + 45|Arden to|Kirkby 10| 227| 130| + 38|Ardingley[B] pa|Crawley 7| 33| 587| + 4|Ardington pa|East Ilsley 7| 57| 404| + 14|Ardleigh pa|Dedham 2| 56| 1545| + 31|Ardley pa|Aynhoe 5| 58| 170| + 45|Ardsley to|Rotherham 8| 172| 1029| + 45|Ardsley,[C] East & West to & pa|Huddersfield 11| 187| 2303| + +--+-------------------------------+---------------------+-----+--------+ + + +[A] ARBORFIELD, in the hundred of Sonning. In this parish, near the +church, is an ancient Manor-house, well worthy of the observation of the +Antiquary; it was built by the family of the Standens, who were Lords of +the Manor in the 17th century. The last male heir of this ancient family +was Edward Standen, the person alluded to in the popular ballad of Molly +Mogg. + + _Fair_, October 5, cattle. + +[Sidenote: Molly Mogg.] + + +[B] ARDINGLEY. In the parish church are several monuments of the ancient +families of the Wakehursts and Culpeppers; one of which is a tomb to the +memory of Nicholas Culpepper and his lady, who died in the beginning of +the sixteenth century. This monument bears his portraiture with that of +his wife and eighteen children. Nicholas Culpepper, the celebrated +herbalist and astrologer, was born in London in 1616, and after +receiving his education at the university of Cambridge, was apprenticed +to an apothecary. He came to London and settled in Spitalfields about +1642. He commenced a war with the College of Physicians, by accusing +them of deceit and ignorance, and published a translation of their +"Dispensary," giving an account of the supposed virtues of each drug, +and the complaints in which they were used. He was also author of the +"Herbal," which is written with much clearness, and distinctly +explained. It passed through many editions. From the tenor of his +writings, it may be gathered that he joined or at least favoured the +Jesuits. + + _Fair_, May 30, Pedlary. + +[Sidenote: Culpepper, the herbalist and astrologer.] + + +[C] ARDSLEY. The birth place of James Nayler, a Quaker, who was +remarkable both on account of the extravagance of the delusions which +for some time possessed him and his followers, and the excessive +severity of the punishment which was inflicted upon him. He was the son +of an industrious little farmer, who supported his family by the +cultivation of his own estate. About the age of twenty-two he married, +and removed into the parish of Wakefield, where he continued till the +breaking out of the civil wars in 1641. He then entered into the +parliament army, and served as a soldier eight or nine years, at first +under Lord Fairfax, and afterwards as quarter-master in major-general +Lambert's troop in Scotland; till, being disabled by sickness, he +returned home about the year 1649. At this time he was a member of the +Independent party, and continued so till the year 1651, when the +preaching of George Fox made him a convert to the communion of the +Quakers, as they are called. Among them he soon commenced preacher, and, +according to their judgment, acquitted himself well both in speaking and +writing. + +[Sidenote: J. Nayler, the Quaker, a remarkable fanatic;] + +[Sidenote: becomes a soldier.] + +In the beginning of the following year he imagined he heard a voice, +calling upon him to renounce his kindred and his father's house, and go +into the west, promising that God would be with him. In obedience to +this voice, which he believed to be the voice of God, he went about +preaching from place to place, and greatly increased the numbers of the +new sect. Towards the close of the year 1654, or early in 1655, he came +to London, where he found a meeting of Friends which had been +established by Edward Burrough and Francis Howgill, among whom he so +greatly distinguished himself by his preaching, that many drew invidious +comparisons between him and his brethren, which created uneasiness and +differences in the society. To such a length did these proceed, that +some women, admirers of Nayler, assumed the liberty of interrupting and +disputing with Howgill and Burrough in the midst of their preachings, +and thus disturbed the peace of the meetings. For this conduct they were +reproved by these preachers; upon which they complained so loudly and +passionately to Nayler, that he was weak enough to take their part, and +was so intoxicated with their flattering praises, that he became +estranged from his best friends, who strongly disapproved of and +lamented his conduct. In the year 1658 we find him in Devonshire, where +he was committed to Exeter jail for propagating his opinions. Here he +received letters from some of his female admirers and others, written in +the most extravagant strains, calling him the everlasting Son of +righteous--the Prince of peace--the only begotten Son of God--the +fairest among ten thousand, &c., and some of his followers kneeled +before him in the prison, and kissed his feet. It is but justice, +however, to the Quakers in general to mention, that they had now +disowned Nayler and his adherents. + +[Sidenote: Committed to Exeter Jail for blasphemy.] + +Soon afterwards Nayler was released from imprisonment, and intended to +return to London, but, taking Bristol in his way, as he passed through +Glastonbury and Wells, his deluded attendants strewed their garments +before him. When they came to Bedminster, about a mile from Bristol, +they carried their extravagance to the highest pitch; for they formed a +procession in imitation of our Saviour's entrance into Jerusalem, in +which a man walked bare-headed before Nayler, and a woman led his horse, +while other women spread their scarfs and hankerchiefs in the road, and +the company sung, "Holy, holy, holy is the Lord God of hosts; Hosanna in +the highest! holy, holy is the Lord God of Israel!" In this manner these +mad people made their entrance into Bristol, marching through the mire +and dirt, to the amazement of some, and the diversion of others; but the +magistrates thought proper to interfere, and, after what had passed, +committed them to prison. Soon afterwards they were sent to London and a +committee was appointed by parliament to examine witnesses against +Nayler, upon a charge of blasphemy, for admitting religious worship to +be paid ti him, and for assuming the names and incommunicable titles and +attributes of our blessed Saviour. Before the committee, he did not deny +what was alleged concerning the extraordinary proceeding in Exeter jail, +and at his entrance into Bristol; while defending himself by maintaining +that the honours which he received were not shown to him, but to Christ +who dwelt within him; and if they were offered to any other than to +Christ, he disowned them. + +[Sidenote: Extravagant conduct of his admirers.] + +However, the committee having made a report to the house on the fifth of +December, declaring the charge well founded, on the following day he was +sent for, and heard at the bar; and on the eighth they resolved that +"James Nayler is guilty of horrid blasphemy, and that he is a grand +impostor, and a great seducer of the people." The next business to be +determined on was, the nature of the punishment to be inflicted on him; +which occupied the debate of the house, both on forenoons and +afternoons, till the 16th of December, many members being for putting +him to death, (and losing their vote, as secretary Thurloe informs us, +only by fourteen voices,) while many other members totally disapproved +of the severity which was used against him. At length, on the following +day, after a considerable debate, the majority came to the resolution, +"That James Nayler be set in the pillory, in the Palace-yard, +Westminster, during the space of two hours, on Thursday next; and be +whipt by the hangman through the streets from Westminster to the Old +Exchange, and there likewise be set with his head in the pillory, for +the space of two hours, between the hours of eleven and one on Saturday +next; in each place wearing a paper, containing an inscription of his +crimes: And that at the Old Exchange, his tongue be bored through with a +hot iron; and that he be there also stigmatized in the forehead with the +letter B: That he be afterwards sent to Bristol, and be conveyed into +and through the said city on horseback, with his face backward, and +there also publicly whipt the next market-day after he comes thither: +And that from thence he be committed to prison in Bridewell, London, and +there to labour hard till he be released by parliament; and, during that +time, be debarred the use of pen, ink, and paper, and shall have no +relief but what he earns by his daily labour." + +[Sidenote: Condemned by the House of Commons for blasphemy.] + +[Sidenote: Cruel sentence--his tongue bored with a hot iron.] + +On the eighteenth of December, the first part of it was carried into +execution with the greatest rigour; but he was brought into a state of +such extreme weakness by his cruel whipping, that, upon repeated +applications to the parliament, his punishment was respited for one +week. The Protector was then addressed, and wrote a letter to the house, +which, though it occasioned some debate, obtained no resolution in +favour of the prisoner. On this the petitioners presented a second +address to Cromwell; but, it is said the influence of the ministers +prevented its effect. + +[Sidenote: His punishment respited] + +On the twenty-seventh of December, the remainder of Nayler's sentence +was executed at the Old Exchange. Afterwards he was sent to Bristol, +where he was publicly whipt, from the middle of Thomas-street, over the +bridge to Broad-street. From Bristol, he was brought back to Bridewell, +London, where he was confined about two years; during which his mind +recovered from the frenzy which had governed it, and he felt deep +humiliation and sincere repentance on account of his past conduct. + +After the protector's death, Nayler was released from prison, and went +to Bristol, where, in a public meeting, he made a confession of his +offence and fall, in a manner so affecting as to draw tears from most of +those who were present, and having afforded satisfactory evidence of his +unfeigned contrition, was again received into the communion of his +friends. + +[Sidenote: His contrition and death.] + +Nayler did not long survive his enlargement, for having left London in +October 1660, with the intention of going home to his wife and children +at Wakefield, he was taken ill in Huntingdonshire, where, it is said, he +was robbed and left bound in a field. Whether he received any personal +injury is not known, but being found towards evening by a countryman, he +was carried to a friend's house, at Holm, near King's Ripon, where he +expired in the month of December, when about 44 years of age. The +expressions uttered by him about two hours before his death, both in +justice to his name, which is so conspicuous in the history of the +reveries of the human imagination, and on account of their own +excellence, ought not to be omitted in the memoirs of his life. + +"There is a spirit which I feel," said he, "that delights to do no evil, +nor to revenge any wrong, but delights to endure all things, in hopes to +enjoy its own in the end. Its hope is to outlive all wrath and +contention, and to weary out all exaltation and cruelty, or whatever is +of a nature contrary to itself. It sees to the end of all temptation: as +it bears no evil in itself, so it conceives none in thoughts to any +other. If it be betrayed, it bears it, for its ground and spring is the +mercies and forgiveness of God. Its crown is meekness, its life is +everlasting love unfeigned, and takes its kingdom with entreaty and not +with contention, and keeps it by lowliness of mind." + +His writings were collected together, and published in an octavo volume +in 1716. + + Map| Names of Places.| County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------+---------+-------------+-------------+ + 22|Ardwick chap|Lancaster|Manchester 1|Stockport 6| + 42|Areley, Kings pa|Worcester|Bewdley 4|Kiddermin. 5| + 35|Areley, Upper pa|Worcester|Bewdley 3|Kiddermin. 5| + 46|Argam pa|E.R. York|Bridlington 5|Hunmanby 3| + 45|Arkendale chap|W.R. York|Knaresboro' 3|Boro'bridge 4| + +--+-----------------+---------+-------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places.| Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + 22|Ardwick chap|Ashton 6| 182| 5524| + 42|Areley, Kings pa|Worcester 11| 122| 372| + 35|Areley, Upper pa|Stourbridge 10| 131| 735| + 46|Argam pa|Gt. Driffield 12| 211| 29| + 45|Arkendale chap|Ripley 6| 203| 260| + +--+-----------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+---------------------+----------+--------------+-------------+ + 45|Arkengarth-Dale[A] |W.R. York |Richmond 11|Askrigg 7| + 14|Arkesden pa|Essex |Saff. Walden 7|Chesterford 7| + 23|Arkholm to & chap|Lancaster |Kirby Lonsd 5|Lancaster 10| + 45|Arksey pa|W.R. York |Doncaster 2|Thorne 8| + 9|Arlecdon pa|Cumberland|Whitehaven 5|Workington 7| + 39|Arfey pa|Warwick |Nuneaton 6|Atherstone 6| + 16|Arlingham pa|Gloucester|Newnham 3|Gloucester 12| + 11|Arlington pa|Devon |Barnstaple 6|Ilfracomb 8| + 15|Arlington to|Gloucester|Fairford 4|Cirencester 6| + 38|Arlington pa|Sussex |Hailsham 4|Lewes 9| + 3|Arlsey[B] pa|Bedford |Baldock 4|Shefford 3| + 9|Armathwaite[C] chap|Cumberland|Carlisle 10|Kirk Oswald 5| + 46|Armin chap|W.R. York |Snaith 6|Howde 3| + 27|Armingall pa|Norfolk |Norwich 3|Bungay 12| + 35|Armitage[D] pa|Stafford |Rugeley 2|Abbots Brom 5| + 45|Armley[E] to|W.R. York |Leeds 2|Bradford 7| + +--+---------------------+----------+--------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+---------------------+-------------------------+-------------+ + 45|Arkengarth-Dale[A] |Reeth 3| 245| 1446| + 14|Arkesden pa|Royston 7| 40| 490| + 23|Arkholm to & chap|Burton 4| 250| 349| + 45|Arksey pa|Tickhill 8| 164| 1171| + 9|Arlecdon pa|Buttermere 9| 299| 475| + 39|Arfey pa|Coleshill 6| 100| 270| + 16|Arlingham pa|Stroudwater 11| 120| 744| + 11|Arlington pa|S. Molton 12| 193| 235| + 15|Arlington to|Northleach 7| 85| 333| + 38|Arlington pa|East Bourne 7| 62| 727| + 3|Arlsey[B] pa|Hitchen 6| 41| 689| + 9|Armathwaite[C] chap|Penrith 9| 292| ...| + 46|Armin chap|Thorne 9| 175| 567| + 27|Armingall pa|Blofield 6| 120| 88| + 35|Armitage[D] pa|Lichfield 6| 124| 977| + 45|Armley[E] to|Wakefield 9| 192| 5159| + +--+---------------------+-------------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] ARKENGARTH-DALE contains lead mines, which were worked in the reign +of King John, and they are still so valuable, that a few years ago the +produce was estimated at 2000 tons annually; the inhabitants are chiefly +miners. + +[Sidenote: Valuable lead mines.] + + +[B] ARLSEY, or ARSLEY. This village was anciently a market town. In +"Doomsday Book," (a book made by order of William the Conqueror, in +which all the estates of the kingdom were registered;) its market on +Wednesday is recorded, and the tolls valued at 10s. per annum. A fair +was held here so long past as the year 1270; but both the market and +fair have long been disused. An ancient entrenchment near the road to +Baldock, called Etonbury, was probably the original site of the castle +occupied by the Lords of the Manor. This castle appears to have a place +of considerable strength. Amongst the ancient monuments in the church is +one erected to the memory of Richard Edwards, who is called on his +epitaph, the last Grand Reader of the Temple. + +[Sidenote: An ancient entrenchment.] + + +[C] ARMATHWAITE. Near this village is a castle, situated on the of the +delightful river Eden, in a deep vale; the building from its monastic +gloom, appears rather to have been calculated for seclusion than +security. The front has been modernized, and is built of hewn stone. Its +antiquity has not been ascertained, certain it is the Skeltons resided +here as early as the reign of Henry VIII. The most romantic and +picturesque scenery surrounds this lovely spot. A magnificent hill +throws its solemn shade on the tranquil surface of the river, here +broadened into a lake like form. Amongst other grand masses of rock is a +projecting crag of a bold and grotesque form called the Cat Glent, the +rendezvous of many wild inhabitants of the feline tribe; beyond these is +a mill and a few sequestered cottages. From this spot the river Eden is +no longer tranquil, but rushing down a cataract pours in sonorous +violence over a bed of opposing rock, whose immovable crags whirl the +stream into eddies as it passes them in its fury. Near this place a +nunnery was established by William Rufus, who like other profligates, +"trembled amidst his impiety," and was willing enough to secure a chance +of heaven, provided it could be obtained by any other means than +virtuous practice. At the dissolution of Monasteries, owing to the +frequent hostilities between the Scots and English, their income +amounted to only 18 guineas per annum. + +[Sidenote: Rendezvous of wild cats] + +[Sidenote: Nunnery founded by William II.] + + +[D] ARMITAGE is situated on the river Soar, in the hundred of Offlow, +South, including the hamlet of Handsacre. The entrance to the church is +very curiously built in the Saxon style, and the chapel is separated +from the nave by a handsome arch. The Grand Trunk Canal passes through a +very noble subterraneous cavern or tunnel, in this parish. The town +received its name from having been the residence of a hermit. + +[Sidenote: A remarkable tunnel.] + + +[E] ARMLEY. This township is in the parish of St. Patrick, and the +liberty of Leeds. It is situated on the banks of the Leeds and Liverpool +Canal, and of the river Aire, on which there are a number of mills +employed in various branches of the clothing trade. An object once of +great antiquarian curiosity, called Giants Hill, which was a Danish +fortification, is now scarcely traceable, in consequence of its having +been cut through to form the Leeds and Liverpool canal. + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------------+----------+--------------+--------------+ + 42|Armscott ham|Worcester |Shipston 3|Evesham 10| + 28|Armston ham|Northamp |Oundle 3|Thrapston 7| + 45|Armthorpe pa|W.R. York |Doncaster 3|Thorne 7| + 45|Arncliffe to & pa|W.R. York |Settle 9|Askrigg 12| + 31|Arncott vill|Oxford |Bicester 3|Oxford 17| + 12|Arne pa|Dorset |Wareham 5|Poole 5| + 23|Arnesby pa|Leicester |Leicester 8|Lutterworth 9| + 30|Arnold pa|Nottingham|Nottingham 4|Mansfield 10| + 16|Arreton pa|Hants |Newport 3|Ryde 6| + 6|Arrington[A] pa|Cambridge |Caxton 5|Cambridge 11| + 7|Arrow to|Chester |Great Neston 6|Liverpool 5| + 39|Arrow to & pa|Warwick |Alcester 1|Stratford 8| + 45|Arthington to|W.R. York |Otley 5|Wetherby 9| + 28|Arthingworth pa|Northamp |Harborough 5|Rothwell 4| + 9|Arthuret[B] pa|Cumberland|Longtown 1|Gretna Green 4| + 37|Arlington ti|Surrey |Guildford 1|Godalming 3| + 38|Arundel[C] bo to & pa|Sussex |Chichester 10|Bognor 7| + 26|Arvans, St. to & pa|Monmouth |Chepstow 3|Tintern Abb. 3| + +--+----------------------+----------+--------------+--------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------------+-------------------------+-----+--------+ + 42|Armscott ham|Alcester 13| 86| 130| + 28|Armston ham|Peterboro' 13| 77| 25| + 45|Armthorpe pa|Bawtry 7| 162| 368| + 45|Arncliffe to & pa|Middleham 15| 231| 964| + 31|Arncott vill|Woodstock 11| 54| ...| + 12|Arne pa|Corfe Castle 5| 110| 171| + 23|Arnesby pa|Harborough 10| 93| 442| + 30|Arnold pa|Oxton 4| 128| 4054| + 16|Arreton pa|Niton 7| 83| 1864| + 6|Arrington[A] pa|Royston 11| 49| 254| + 7|Arrow to|Chester 18| 200| 91| + 39|Arrow to & pa|Henley in Ar. 8| 103| 466| + 45|Arthington to|Leeds 7| 198| 360| + 28|Arthingworth pa|Northamp 11| 77| 225| + 9|Arthuret[B] pa|Carlisle 7| 310| 2903| + 37|Arlington ti|Farnham 10| 31| ...| + 38|Arundel[C] bo to & pa|Worthing. 10| 55| 2803| + 26|Arvans, St. to & pa|Monmouth 10| 138| 304| + +--+----------------------+-------------------------+-----+--------+ + + +[A] ARRINGTON. This village was anciently called Ermington. It is near +Lord Hardwicke's Park. At this place, in the year 1721, the skeletons of +sixteen human bodies were found in digging for a water course, within +two feet of the surface of the ground. Some pieces of iron much rusted, +conjectured to have been pieces of swords were also found. It is +supposed the skeletons were the remains of persons who had been killed +in endeavouring to obtain possession of the pass over the river Cam, +during the civil wars. + +[Sidenote: Sixteen skeletons found here.] + + +[B] ARTHURET. This village is situated on a point of land which in early +times was said to have been called Arthur's Head, from whence the name +is derived. In this place was both born and buried, Archibald Armstrong, +Jester to both King James I., and Charles I. By an incident suitable to +his profession, his funeral took place on "All Fools Day," the first of +April. He was banished the court for speaking too freely of Archbishop +Laud's measure of introducing the Liturgy into Scotland, which had +produced a considerable tumult. On the arrival of the news of these +riots in England, Archy facetiously asked his grace, "Who's the fool +now." The joke was bitterly resented by the prelate, who procured an +order of council to banish him from the court, for speaking +disrespectful words of the Archbishop of Canterbury. This parish is +bounded partly by Solway Frith, and forms part of the debateable lands +so celebrated in Scottish history; these lands and the celebrated Solway +Moss, we shall have occasion to speak further of in the course of the +work. + +[Sidenote: A merry jester buried on "All Fool's Day."] + + +[C] ARUNDEL, is situated on the declivity of a hill, on the north bank +of the river Arun, over which there is a bridge. It consists of two +principal streets, one of which runs north and south, and the other +westward from the point of the union. Many of the houses are built in +the castellated style. The church, situated at the north end of the +town, originally belonged to a priory of Benedictines, and is supposed +to have been founded soon after the conquest of Roger de Montgomery, +Earl of Arundel. It is a handsome gothic building with transepts, from +the centre of which rises a square tower, with a wooden spire. Some +beautiful monuments of the Earls of Arundel may be seen; and one, more +magnificent than the rest, is of alabaster, a calcareous earth, which +differs from marble, in being combined not with carbonic, but with +sulphuric acid. This monument is erected to the memory of Thomas +Fitz-Alan, and Beatrice, his countess, a daughter of John, King of +Portugal. The charter by which the town is governed, was granted by +Queen Elizabeth. It formerly sent two members, but by the Reform Bill, +it now sends but one; the ten pound householders are calculated at 380. +The borough comprises the parish of Arundel and the returning officer is +the mayor. Here was formerly a harbour sufficient to contain vessels of +one hundred tons burthen, but it has suffered great damage by the sea. +Great quantities of timber for ship building, are still shipped from +this place, which has but little trade, yet it is much benefitted in +summer by the numerous visitors who resort to it for sea bathing. Of the +castle, which stands on the north-east side of the town, mention is +first made in the will of King Alfred, who bequeathed it, with the town, +to his nephew Adhelm. A popular tradition ascribes the foundation of it +to Beris, "a giant of ancient times," in confirmation of which opinion a +tower is still pointed out, called Beris Tower. The Conqueror gave it to +his kinsman Roger de Montgomery, whom he also created Earl of Arundel, +which title belonged to three persons of this family, till Robert +Bellesme was outlawed by Henry I. for the assistance he gave to that +monarch's brother, Robert. The castle was then settled on Queen Adeliza, +who, after the death of her royal consort, gave her hand to William de +Albini, one of the most accomplished men of his age. Here the +dowager-queen performed the rites of hospitality towards the Empress +Maud, in the attempt of that princess to ascend the throne. The last +male heir of the name of Albini, died in 1243, when the castle and manor +of Arundel fell to his sister, Isabel, whose husband, John Fitz-Alan, +made the castle his residence, and assumed the title of Earl of Arundel. +The fourth in descent from him forfeited his life and estates, in the +attempt to ruin the Despensers, favourites of Edward II.; but the +estates were restored to his son, whose successor, in the reign of +Richard II., being accused of a conspiracy to seize the king, and put to +death the lords of the council, was beheaded; the king presiding at the +execution. His son, Thomas Fitz-Alan, was reinstated by Henry IV.; but, +he dying without issue, in 1415, the castle devolved to his cousin, Sir +John Fitz-Alan, who laid claim to, and obtained the title, on which an +act was passed, that the possession of this castle and honour conferred +the dignity of Earl without creation. The last Fitz-Alan died in the 22d +of Elizabeth, leaving a daughter, who married Thomas Howard, Duke of +Norfolk, thus carrying the earldom and estate into that family, to whom +they still belong. + +[Sidenote: Beautiful monuments in the church.] + +[Sidenote: Quantities of Sussex oak shipped from this place.] + +[Sidenote: Tradition ascribes the foundation of the castle to a giant.] + +[Sidenote: The king presided at the execution of one of its lords.] + +Concerning the true period of the foundation of this castle, many +conjectures have been entertained. On account of the bricks inserted in +the walls of the keep, it has been attributed to the Romans; but such a +proof is not allowed by the best antiquaries. Its pretensions to the era +of the Saxon kings are more explicit. The more ancient parts are the +keep or citadel, and the towers which flank the gateway, and connect the +whole by means of a sally port. The keep stands upon an artificial +mound, the height of which, from the fosse, is one hundred and ten feet +on one side, and eighty on the other. Of its external wall, the height +is thirty feet, supported by projecting ribs or buttresses. It is eight +feet thick, with a wall on the inside, guarded by a parapet as many feet +high. The diameter of the room which is faced with Norman or Caen stone, +is sixty-seven feet by fifty-nine. There are also Roman bricks placed in +the herring-bone fashion, which is observable in most Saxon buildings. +In the centre is a subterraneous room and passage; and in a tower +attached to the keep, is a well three hundred feet deep. The approach is +by a time-worn staircase, and over a narrow pass, commanding the +entrance to the building, which bears the marks of a portcullis. The +more ancient one towards the east still retains a very rich Saxon +door-case. In the tower above the present entrance, was a small chapel +or oratory, dedicated to St. George. The tower and gateway facing the +base court of the castle are apparently co-temporary with the keep. The +other towers are built with flint. The dungeons are on the right and +left of the gateway. They consist of eight wards, protected by a +draw-bridge from the castle moat. The lower wards are very deep, and +partly filled up with rubbish. The foundation walls of these dungeons +are not known, although efforts have been employed to discover the +length and depth of these frightful abodes. The Empress Maud's +apartments are in the tower, above the old gateway. They consist of +three bed-rooms. The Saxon keep may justly be termed the ivy-mantled +tower, for the walls are literally covered with its leaves. The late +Duke of Norfolk was very partial to this retired spot. Here are several +remarkably curious owls, elegant, and extremely large; some of them +measuring across the wings, from eight to ten feet. Their plumage is +particularly beautiful, and their eyes brilliant. The late duke +purchased them from North America. There are many traces of ancient +remains about the keep or tower. The spot where the boilers stood, for +the purpose of melting the lead to pour down upon the besiegers, and +those used for culinary purposes, are still visible. The marks of cannon +balls discharged against the tower during the siege of the parliamentary +forces, are observable in many places. The ground plan of the present +castle nearly resembles that of Windsor Castle, in the exact proportion +of nine to fourteen. When the late Duke of Norfolk took possession, the +castle was little better than a heap of ruins, but his Grace has +restored it to its original magnificence. The building is of free-stone, +from the quarries in Yorkshire; and those of a brown cast were carefully +selected, in order that they might assimilate in colour with the old +remains. The new walls have risen upon the ancient model, and correspond +with the old ones in solidity of fabric, as well as dignity of ornament. +An entire new front of massy stone, which differs materially from the +others, particularly in exhibiting the insignia of the Howards, mixed +with those of their predecessors, and two colossal figures of liberty +and hospitality, ornament the grand entrance. In raising this front, the +late duke had the opportunity of enlarging the mansion, and gaining the +space now occupied on the basement story, by a long range of servants' +offices, including a new kitchen, with two fire places, bake-house, +scullery, the steward's and housekeeper's rooms, &c. The cellars are of +immense length. The duke weekly employed from 100 to 200 labourers, +mechanics, and artists, in the improvement and decorations of this noble +edifice, for upwards of twenty-five years. The arrangements were formed +entirely from his own ideas, and in the progress of the plan, he was +exclusively his own architect. On the west wing is a beautiful +sculptured basso relievo historical representation of King Alfred +receiving the report of the jury, as established in his reign. The +costume and draperies are finely carved in stone. The interior of the +castle is fitted up with great taste and effect. The richest mahogany +has been used in almost every decoration. The walls being more than six +feet thick, form a kind of frame for each window, which is five feet +deep on the inside, and the whole of this spacious case is lined with +mahogany. The window frames which hold the magnificent plate glass +panes, three feet each in height, are of the same material; and the +solid mahogany doors are held in cases of the thickness of the inner +walls, perhaps, four feet deep, all lined with pannels of the richest +grain. + +[Sidenote: The great antiquity of the castle.] + +[Sidenote: The castle dungeons of remarkable depth.] + +[Sidenote: Remarkable owls] + +[Sidenote: The late Duke of Norfolk restored the castle to its ancient +magnificence.] + +[Sidenote: Employed from 100 to 200 labourers for 25 years.] + +In the Barons room the following inscription appears:-- + + "CHARLES HOWARD, DUKE OF NORFOLK, + + EARL OF ARUNDEL, + + in the year of Christ, 1806, + in the 60th year of his age, + dedicated this stone + To Liberty, asserted by the Barons, + in the reign of John." + +On the 15th of June, 1815, a great festival took place for celebrating +the centenary of the signing of Magna Charta. There was a splendid +assemblage of the nobility and persons of distinction. Complete suits of +ancient armour, with swords and spears, forged in ancient times, and for +very different purposes, were either suspended from, or hung around the +walls; and every adventitious aid was adopted to give state and majesty +to this celebration of the magnanimous conduct of the Barons of England. +Nearly three hundred distinguished guests sat down. The head of the +table was ornamented with a noble baron of beef, surmounted by the ducal +coronet, and the banners of the illustrious house of Norfolk. + +[Sidenote: Festival to celebrate the signing of Magna Charter held +here.] + +The castle occupies a mile in circumference, and the beautiful domains +which surround this magnificent structure, are more than seven miles and +a half in circumference, enclosed with a strong fence railing. The +grounds are well laid out, in gardens, shrubberies, and plantations. +There are three agreeable towers in the park; High Horn, commanding an +extensive prospect; and Mount Pleasant, covered with ivy, overlooking +the beautiful vale of Sussex. The late duke built another tower, facing +the road to Petworth, called the White Ways. The castle is open to the +inspection of visitors on the first Sunday in the month after divine +service, and on every Monday in the year. + +[Sidenote: The times when the castle may be inspected by visitors.] + +When the buildings on the Norfolk estate adjoining the Strand, London, +were erected, it was legally settled, that the whole of the rents, +should be expended for the sole purpose of keeping up Arundel Castle; +this has always been acted upon. The original rents having long since +fallen in--and the increased income that has been produced by that +cause, joined to the general increase of rents in that quarter, has been +so great, that it now requires very great ingenuity to contrive the +means of laying out all that money according to the directions of the +original entail; and this is the real cause of the magnificent style in +which that ancient baronial castle is still supported. The estate thus +mentioned, comprises the whole of Surrey-street, Arundel-street, +Howard-street, and Norfolk-street, which are the entire property of the +Norfolk family. + + _Markets_, Wednesday and Saturday.--_Mail_ arrives 7.40. A.M., + departs 5.30. P.M.--_Fairs_, May 14, cattle and hogs; August 21, + hogs, cattle, and sheep; September 25, cattle and sheep; December 17, + cattle and pedlary; second Tuesday in every month for + cattle.--_Bankers_, Henty and Co., draw on Lubbock and Co.; Hopkins + and Co., draw on Williams and Co.--_Inns_, Crown, and Norfolk Arms. + +[Sidenote: Estates in London devoted to keep it in repair.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County.| Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------------+--------+-----------+-----------+ + 40|Asaph, St.[A] city & pa|Denbigh |Holywell 10|Abergeley 7| + 40|Asby[B] pa|Westmor |Appleby 5|Orton 5| + 39|Ascote ex. pa. ham|Warwick |Southam 2|Warwick 9| + +--+-----------------------+--------+-----------+-----------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From|Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------------+--------------------+-----+-----+ + 40|Asaph, St.[A] city & pa|Holyhead 57| 208| 3144| + 40|Asby[B] pa|Brough 9| 273| 436| + 39|Ascote ex. pa. ham|Kineton 8| 82| 12| + +--+-----------------------+--------------------+-----+-----+ + + +[A] ST. ASAPH. This city is seated on the decline of a pleasant +eminence, between the rivers Clwyd and Elwy, which renders the first +appearance striking, though it contains little more than one street. The +church stands in the lower part of the town, and serves for the use of +the parishioners, the cathedral not being used for parochial purposes; +the latter was built about the close of the fifteenth century; it +consists of a choir, a nave, two aisles, and a transept. During the +protectorship of Cromwell the palace and cathedral were much injured by +the post-master, who made great havoc in the choir of the cathedral, +using the font as a trough for watering his horses; and by way of +venting his spleen on the clergy, tied up calves in the bishop's throne. +Several very eminent men have been bishops of St. Asaph, including Dr. +Isaac Barrow, William Beveridge, and Samuel Horsley, the former of whom +founded an alms-house for eight poor widows. Bishop Hughes, who died +1600, founded, and endowed the Free Grammar School. The neighbourhood +possesses several land proprietors who have given great encouragement to +agriculture, amongst whom may be included Dean Shipley, who stimulated +the practical farmers to emulation, by premiums, and other +encouragement. To this spirited dignitary, so well known in the history +of the law of libel, a very handsome monument has been erected in the +cathedral. + + _Market_ Saturday.--_Fairs_, Easter Tuesday, July 15, October 16, + December 26, for cattle.--_Inn_, White Lion. + +[Sidenote: The font of the cathedral used for watering horses.] + + +[B] ASBY, once called Askeby. This parish consists of four manors. The +church is ancient, its beauty has been much disfigured by repairs; it +has even been diminished in size, as appears by an arch now filled up in +the north wall. At Sayle Bottom are several tumuli--some circular, +others rectangular. At Garthorne Hall, a tumulus was found to contain +human bones and a large sword, and another containing three entire +skulls. Pate Hole, in this parish, is a remarkable cavern in a limestone +rock, consisting of two galleries, one 430 yards long, towards the north +east, the other, 230 yards long, making a large sweep from the extremity +of the first to its middle; together, they resemble the letter P. At the +end of the first gallery is a lofty dome, and a pool 20 yards long, 6 +broad, and 3 deep; and in the second are two perpendicular chasms of +unknown extent, from whence proceed in rainy seasons torrents of water, +which fill the cavern and discharge themselves from its entrance. The +noise of these operations resemble at first gentle music, but increases +to the pitch of the loudest. In one part is a petrifying spring, which +always stands at one temperature. + +[Sidenote: Pate Hole, an immense cavern.] + + Map| Names of Places.|County.| Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------+-------+------------+--------------+ + 39|Ascott ham|Warwick|Shipston 7|L. Compton 3| + 31|Ascott ham & chap|Oxford |Bensington 5|Dorchester 4| + 39|Ascott pa|Oxford | ... 5| ... 4| + 34|Asgarby pa|Lincoln|Sleaford 3|Tattershall 11| + 24|Asgarby pa|Lincoln|Spilsby 6|Horncastle 6| + 10|Ash ham|Derby |Derby 7|Uttoxeter 11| + 21|Ash pa|Kent |Wingham 3|Sandwich 3| + 21|Ash pa|Kent |Farmingham 4|Gravesend 7| + 37|Ash pa|Surrey |Farnham 4|Bagshot 9| + 16|Ash, or Ashe pa|Hants |Whitchurch 6|Basingstoke 7| + 11|Ashe[A] ham|Devon |Colyton 2|Lyme 4| + +--+-----------------+-------+------------+--------------+ + |Dist. | + Map| Names of Places.|Number of Miles From|Lond. |Population. + +--+-----------------+--------------------+--------+------+ + 39|Ascott ham|Kineton 12| 78| ...| + 31|Ascott ham & chap|Oxford 10| 61| 97| + 39|Ascott pa|Oxford 10| 51| 419| + 34|Asgarby pa|Falkingham 8| 114| 146| + 24|Asgarby pa|Tattershall 10| 138| 57| + 10|Ash ham|Burton-on-T. 7| 136| 50| + 21|Ash pa|Ramsgate 8| 63| 2416| + 21|Ash pa|Wrotham 4| 20| 586| + 37|Ash pa|Godalming 8| 35| 2001| + 16|Ash, or Ashe pa|Kingsclere 6| 53| 114| + 11|Ashe[A] ham|Axminster 4| 148| ...| + +--+-----------------+--------------------+--------+------+ + + +[A] ASHE is situated in Musbury parish, which lies in the hundred of +Axminster, two miles east by north from Colyton. It is the birth place +of the celebrated John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough: this +distinguished person was born here in the year 1650. He received only an +indifferent education, for his father took him to court at the age of +twelve years, when he became page, as his sister, Arabella, became +mistress to the Duke of York. In 1660, he obtained a pair of colours in +the Guards. His first service was at the siege of Tangier, and, on his +return from thence, he became the favourite of the Duchess of Cleveland, +who gave him L5,000 with which he purchased an annuity for life. He +afterwards served under the great Turenne, who was so pleased with his +person and bravery as to call him the handsome Englishman. At the siege +of Maestricht he so distinguished himself, that the King of France +publicly thanked him. On his return he was made lieutenant-colonel, +gentleman of the bedchamber, and master of the robes to the Duke of +York, whom he attended to Holland and Scotland; and about this time +married Miss Jennings, maid of honour to the Princess, afterwards Queen +Anne. In 1682, he was shipwrecked with the Duke of York, in their +passage to Scotland, on which occasion his royal highness expressed the +greatest anxiety to save his favourite. The same year he was made a +peer, by the title of Baron Eymouth, in Scotland; and when James came to +the crown, he was sent to France to notify the event. In 1685, he was +created Lord Churchill, of Sandridge. The same year he suppressed +Monmouth's rebellion, and took him prisoner. He continued to serve James +with great fidelity, till the arrival of the Prince of Orange, and then +left him, for which he has been stigmatized, and perhaps not unjustly, +with base ingratitude. His own apology was a regard for the religion and +constitution of his country. He was created Earl of Marlborough by King +William in 1689, and appointed commander of the English army in the low +countries. He next served in Ireland, and reduced Cork, with other +strong places. In 1692, he was suddenly dismissed from his employments, +and committed to the Tower: he was, however, very soon released, but the +cause of this disgrace was never clearly explained. After the death of +Queen Mary he was restored to favour; and at the close of that reign he +had the command of the English forces in Holland, and the States chose +him captain-general of their forces. On the commencement of the reign of +Anne, he recommended a war with France, and his advice was adopted. In +the first campaign of 1702, he took a number of strong towns, +particularly Liege. In the following year he was created a Duke. In +1704, he joined Prince Eugene, in conjunction with whom he conquered the +French at Hochstedt, took Marshal Tallard prisoner, and brought him to +England, with 26 other officers of rank, 121 standards, and 179 colours. +He then received the grant of the manor of Woodstock. In 1706, he fought +the famous battle of Ramilies. This battle accelerated the fall of +Louvain, Brussels, and other important places. He arrived in England, +and received fresh honours from the Queen and Parliament. Blenheim house +was ordered to be built, and a pension of L5,000. a year was awarded +him. In 1709, he defeated Marshal Villars at Malplaquet. In the year +1711, he returned to England with additional laurels, but was soon after +dismissed from his employments. To add to this unjust treatment, a +prosecution was commenced against him for applying the public money to +his private purposes. Indignant at such conduct, he went into voluntary +banishment till 1714, when he landed at Dover, amidst the acclamations +of the people. George I. restored him to his military employments, but +he retired from his appointments to Windsor, and died in 1722. His +remains were interred with great pomp in Westminster Abbey. His Duchess +outlived him several years. She was a woman of a strong mind, but +overbearing passions. Her letters have been printed, and display +uncommon sagacity, blended with a great share of vanity. The mansion +house in which the Duke was born, now in a state of ruin, was rebuilt +shortly after the civil wars, by Sir John Drake, whose daughter had +married Sir Winston Churchill. + + _Fairs_, April 6, and Oct. 11, for pedlary. + +[Sidenote: The birth-place of the celebrated Duke of Marlboro'.] + +[Sidenote: He took Monmouth prisoner in the reign of James II.] + +[Sidenote: Created a Duke by Queen Anne.] + +[Sidenote: Blenheim house built for him.] + +[Sidenote: Died in the 8th year of the reign of Geo. I.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County.| Number of Miles From | + +--+---------------------+--------+-------------+--------------+ + 4|Ashamstead chap|Berks |East Ilsley 5|Streatley 4| + 31|Ashamstead chap|Oxford |Gt. Marlow 4|H. Wycombe 4| + 36|Ash Bocking pa|Suffolk |Needham 6|Ipswich 6| + 10|Ashbourn[A] m.t. & pa|Derby |Derby 13|Leek 16| + 34|Ashbrittle pa|Somerset|Wellington 6|Wiveliscombe 5| + +--+---------------------+--------+-------------+--------------+ + |Dist| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond|Population. + +--+---------------------+----------------------+----+---------+ + 4|Ashamstead chap|Newbury 9| 49| 346| + 31|Ashamstead chap|Henley 6| 35| ...| + 36|Ash Bocking pa|Woodbridge 8| 75| 234| + 10|Ashbourn[A] m.t. & pa|Wirksworth 9| 139| 4756| + 34|Ashbrittle pa|Dulverton 10| 254| 635| + +--+---------------------+--------+-------------+----+---------+ + + +[A] ASHBOURN is very pleasantly situated in a rich valley on the eastern +side of the Dove, over which is a stone bridge. It is divided into two +parts by a rivulet, which is called Henmore, the southern part of which +is termed Compton, the ancient Campdene. From the descent of the hill on +the Derby road, the view of the place as it presents itself embosomed +amongst the hills is beautifully picturesque. It is a neat town, but +there is nothing remarkable in its buildings. At the time of the +conquest it was a royal manor, and subsequently became a part of the +Duchy of Lancaster, until it was sold by Charles I. It is supposed that +the church, which is dedicated to St. Oswald, was finished in the +thirteenth century; in it are many monuments to the Cockaines, +Bradburns, and Boothby's, successively possessors of the manors. Sir +Thomas Cockaine and other natives, founded a Free Grammar School, in the +reign of Elizabeth, for children of the town and neighbourhood, and also +a second for the poorer class of children of both sexes. Here are also a +chapel and a neat row of alms-houses, founded in 1800 by a native named +Cooper, who made a fortune in London, for six poor men and women, and +several other hospitals for decayed house-keepers, including one for the +maintenance of four clergymen's widows. A very considerable trade is +carried on here in cheese and malt, many horses and cattle are sold at +its fairs. Much lace is made here, and a great many persons are employed +in the iron and cotton factories in the neighbourhood. The romantic and +beautiful glen of Dovedale is within a short distance. This town is one +of the polling places for the southern division of the county. + + _Market_, Saturday.--Mail arrives 11 A.M., departs 2-3/4 + P.M.--_Fairs_, first Tuesday in January, and Feb. 13, for horses and + horned cattle, April 3, May 21, and July 5, for horses, horned + cattle, and wool. August 16, October 20, and November 29, for horses, + and horned cattle; the fairs for horses begin two or three days + before the fair-day.--_Inns_, Blackmoor's Head and Green + Man.--_Bankers_, Arkwright and Co.; drawn on Smith, Payne, and Co. + +[Sidenote: A royal manor of the Saxon Kings made part of the Duchy of +Lancaster.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+------------------+---------+-------------+------------+ + 38|Ashburnham[A] pa|Sussex |Battle 6|Hailsham 6| + 11|Ashburton[B] }|Devon |Exeter 20|Torquay 13| + | bo. m.t. & pa}| | | | + 4|Ashbury to & pa|Berks |Lambourn 16|Wantage 10| + 11|Ashbury pa|Devon |Hatherleigh 5|Oakhampton 6| + 24|Ashby pa|Lincoln |Gt. Grimsby 7|Caistor 9| + 24|Ashby pa|Lincoln |Spilsby 2|Burgh 3| + 24|Ashby pa|Lincoln |Sleaford 6|Lincoln 13| + 24|Ashby to|Lincoln |Brigg 6|Epworth 7| + 27|Ashby pa|Norfolk |Norwich 8|Acle 7| + 27|Ashby pa|Norfolk |Acle 3|Norwich 12| + 36|Ashby pa|Suffolk |Lowestoft 5|Yarmouth 8| + 28|Ashby, Cold pa|Northamp |Northamp 12|Daventry 10| + 23|Ashby-de-la-Zouch}|Leicester|Leicester 18|Kegworth 10| + | [C] m.t. & pa}| | | | + +--+------------------+---------+-------------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + 38|Ashburnham[A] pa|East Bourne 11| 55| 721| + 11|Ashburton[B] }|Totness 7| 192| 4165| + | bo. m.t. & pa}| | | | + 4|Ashbury to & pa|Highworth 7| 70| 698| + 11|Ashbury pa|Launceston 14| 201| 74| + 24|Ashby pa|Louth 12| 160| 179| + 24|Ashby pa|Wainfleet 6| 134| 170| + 24|Ashby pa|Navenby 6| 121| 178| + 24|Ashby to|Gainsboro' 14| 157| 378| + 27|Ashby pa|Bungay 9| 116| 72| + 27|Ashby pa|Yarmouth 8| 125| 82| + 36|Ashby pa|Beccles 7| 119| 42| + 28|Ashby, Cold pa|Harborough 10| 78 | 385| + 23|Ashby-de-la-Zouch}|M Bosworth 10| 115| 4727| + | [C] m.t. & pa}| | | | + +--+------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] ASHBURNHAM is in the hundred of Foxearle, and rape of Hastings. This +village gives the name and title of Earl to the representatives of the +ancient family of Ashburnham, who possessed this manor before the +conquest. The shirt and white silk drawers in which Charles I. was +executed, on the 30th of January, 1649, and also the watch which he gave +to Mr. John Ashburnham, on the scaffold, are still preserved in the +church, having been bequeathed by one of his descendants to the clerk of +this parish for ever, and are exhibited as great curiosities. + +[Sidenote: Bequests of Charles I. made on the scaffold.] + + +[B] ASHBURTON is situated in a valley encompassed by hills; it is about +a mile from the river Dart, and consists principally of one long street, +through which runs the high road from London to Plymouth. The houses are +neat, and most of them covered with slate, of which there is abundance +in the vicinity. The manor belonged to the crown in the reign of James +I., but it has since passed through various private hands. The town, +which is governed by a portreeve, chosen at the court leet and baron of +the manor, is a borough by prescription, (that is to say, a custom +continued until it has the force of law;) and was constituted one of the +four stannary towns of Devon, by a charter of Edward I., in the +twenty-sixth year of whose reign it sent two members to Parliament, but +only returned members once subsequently until 1640, in which year its +privilege was restored: by the late reform bill, it now returns but one +member; the electors on the old constituency were 101, and L10 +householders 342. The portreeve is the returning-officer. The borough +comprises the parish of Ashburton. + + _Market_, Saturday.--_Fairs_, first Thursday in March; first Thursday + in June; August 10; November 11, for horned cattle.--_Inns_, London + and Golden Lion.--_Mail_ arrives 5 P.M., departs 9-3/4 A.M. + +[Sidenote: One of the four stannary towns of the county.] + + +[C] ASHBY-DE-LA-ZOUCH is situated in a fertile valley on the borders of +Derbyshire, through which runs the small river Gilwiskaw. Its +distinctive appellation is derived from the ancient family of the +Zouches, who came into possession of the manor in the reign of Henry +III. It afterwards devolved to the crown, by which it was granted to the +noble family of Hastings, in right of whom the Marquis of that title +still possesses it. The town is chiefly comprised in one street, from +which branches several smaller ones. The church is a handsome ancient +edifice, built of stone, consisting of a nave and two aisles, separated +by four lofty arches, springing from fluted pillars. Here are also +places of worship for the Calvinistic and Wesleyan Methodists, +Presbyterians, and others. A free grammar school was founded in this +town by Henry Earl of Huntingdon, in 1567; and another free school for +26 boys, by Isaac Dawson, in 1669. The manufactures established here are +chiefly those of cotton and woollen stockings, and hats. There is also a +good trade in malt, and the fairs are celebrated for the sale of fine +horses and cattle. The mansion at Ashby was remarkable for its magnitude +and strength, and continued for 200 years the residence of the family of +Sir William Hastings, knt., a particular favourite of Edward IV., who +was elevated by that monarch to several offices of high trust and +dignity. It stood on a rising ground, at the south end of the town, and +was composed of brick and stone from the ruins of Ashby Castle. + + _Market_, Saturday.--_Fairs_, Shrove-Monday, Easter Tuesday, + Whit-Tuesday, last Monday in September, November 10, for horses, + cows, and sheep.--_Bankers_, Fishers and Co.; draw upon Hoare, + Barnet, and Co.--_Mail_ arrives 10.30 morning; departs 4.0 + afternoon.--_Inns_, Queen's Head, and White Hart. + +[Sidenote: An ancient family gave their name to the town.] + +[Sidenote: A noble mansion constructed out of the ruins of Ashby +Castle.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------------+---------+-------------+------------+ + 23|Ashby Folville to & pa|Leicester|Melton Mow. 6|Leicester 10| + 23|Ashby Magna pa|Leicester|Lutterworth 4|Hinckley 11| + 23|Ashby Parva pa|Leicester| ... 3| ... 8| + 24|Ashby Puerorum[A] pa|Lincoln |Spilsby 5|Alford 7| + 28|Ashby St. Ledger[B] pa|Northamp |Daventry 4|Northamp 14| + +--+----------------------+---------+-------------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + 23|Ashby Folville to & pa|Houghton 6| 104| 391| + 23|Ashby Magna pa|Leicester 11| 93| 330| + 23|Ashby Parva pa| ... 13| 92| 169| + 24|Ashby Puerorum[A] pa|Louth 10| 137| 101| + 28|Ashby St. Ledger[B] pa|Welford 9| 76| 257| + +--+----------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] ASHBY PUERORUM. In the year 1804, a Roman sepulchre was discovered +near this place, by a labourer who was cutting a ditch. It consisted of +a stone chest, which laid 3 feet below the surface of the earth; the lid +fitted nearly to the sides, hanging a little over the edge, so that when +it was removed; no dirt of any kind was found to have gained admittance +during a period of nearly two thousand years. The chest was formed of +free stone, of a kind found in abundance on Lincoln Heath. The urn was +of strong glass well manufactured, and of a greenish colour. The glass +was as perfect and the surface as smooth as if just taken out of the +fire. This receptacle of the ashes was nearly filled with small pieces +of bone, many of which, from the effect of ignition, were white +throughout the whole substance. Among the fragments was discovered a +small lacrymatory, which had been broken, from the curiosity of the +person who discovered it, to ascertain whether it contained any thing of +value. + +[Sidenote: A very ancient urn of green glass found here.] + + +[B] ASHBY ST. LEDGER is situated near a rivulet that flows into the +river Nen. The additional name of St. Ledger is borrowed from the patron +saint to whom the church is dedicated. This structure consists of a nave +and aisles, with a tower and spire. At the upper end of the north aisle +are still remaining the steps which led to the rude loft between the +chancel and the nave. Here are three piscinas for holy water. Several +ancient monumental inscriptions may be seen in the chancel. On an altar +tomb within the communion rails, are the recumbent figures of a man and +woman, with an inscription in black letter, commemorative of William +Catesby and Margaret his wife, bearing date 1493. Catesby was one of the +three families who ruled the nation under Richard's usurpation, and +constituted the triumvirate which is alluded to in the old distich:-- + + The rat, and the cat, and Lovel the dog, + Do govern all England under the hog. + +The rat was Richard Ratcliff, the cat William Catesby, the dog Lord +Lovel, and the hog for Richard, it being then the regal crest. William +Catesby became a distinguished character; he was made esquire of the +King's body; Chancellor of the Marshes for life; and one of the +Chamberlains of the Exchequer. Being taken prisoner at the battle of +Bosworth field, while fighting by his patron's side, he was conducted to +Leicester, and beheaded as a traitor. At the eastern end of both aisles, +are two places, formerly appropriated as places of sepulture for the two +great Lords of Ashby. One of these belonged to the Catesby family; but +most of the inscriptions are effaced. The manorial house of Ashby is a +good old family mansion, occupied by the widow of the late John Ashby, +Esq. A small room in the detached offices belonging to the house is +still shown as having been the council-chamber, where the gunpowder-plot +conspirators held their deliberations. Robert Catesby, one of the +descendants of the family, was at the head of this conspiracy, for which +he was tried, condemned, and executed; and his head, together with that +of his father-in-law, Thomas Percie, who was involved in his guilt, were +fixed on the top of the Parliament-house. + +[Sidenote: An ancient monument of the Catesby family.] + +[Sidenote: Catesby taken prisoner at Bosworth field.] + +[Sidenote: The gunpowder plot conspirators met here.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From + +--+---------------------+----------+--------------+--------------+ + 24|Ashby West pa|Lincoln |Horncastle 2|Louth 12| + 15|Ashchurch pa|Gloucester|Tewkesbury 1|Winchcombe 9| + 11|Ashcombe[A] pa|Devon |Chudleigh 3|Exeter 9| + 34|Ashcott chap|Somerset |Glastonbury 6|Bridgewater 10| + 14|Ashdon or Ashingdon }| | | | + | to & pa}|Essex |Saff. Walden 4|Haverhill 6| + 14|Asheldam pa|Essex |Bradwell 4|Burnham 4| + 15|Ashelworth pa|Gloucester|Gloucester 5|Tewkesbury 8| + 14|Ashen pa|Essex |Clare 2|Halstead 9| + 5|Ashenden[B] pa|Bucks |Thame 6|Bicester 11| + 36|Ashfield Great[C] pa|Suffolk |Stowmarket 7|Ixworth 5| + 36|Ashfield-cum-Thorpe p|Suffolk |Framlingham 6|Debenham 2| + 10|Ashford[D] chap|Derby |Bakewell 2|Tideswell 6| + +--+---------------------+----------+--------------+--------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+---------------------+----------+--------------+--------------+ + 24|Ashby West pa|Wragby 13| 138| 391| + 15|Ashchurch pa|Cheltenham 8| 103| 649| + 11|Ashcombe[A] pa|Teignmouth 6| 177| 320| + 34|Ashcott chap|Somerton 7| 129| 834| + 14|Ashdon or Ashingdon }| | | | + | to & pa}|Linton 4| 45| 1103| + 14|Asheldam pa|Maldon 9| 46| 144| + 15|Ashelworth pa|Newent 7| 105| 540| + 14|Ashen pa|Haverhill 5| 54| 373| + 5|Ashenden[B] pa|Aylesbury 8| 46| 368| + 36|Ashfield Great[C] pa|Botesdale 8| 76| 408| + 36|Ashfield-cum-Thorpe p|Eye 9| 83| 375| + 10|Ashford[D] chap|Buxton 10| 155| 782| + +--+---------------------+-------------------------+-----+--------+ + + +[A] ASHCOMBE is a parish in the hundred of Exminster. Here is a mansion +of Lord Arundel's, situated in a large amphitheatre of hills, richly +wooded at their base, and at their summit often studded with herds of +sheep or deer. The only entrance to this romantic dale is from the +north, by a road, which though perfectly safe, falls precipitately down +a narrow ridge of one of the hills. + + +[B] ASHENDEN. This manor has been from time immemorial in the Grenville +family. John Bucktot, a priest, gave the manor of Little Pollicott, to +Lincoln College, in Oxford, about 1479; and what renders it particularly +remarkable, is the circumstance of the manor house being used as a +retiring place for the members of the college at the time of the plague. +In Ashenden Church, is an ancient figure of a crusader, under an arch, +rudely ornamented with foliage; which according to tradition, is the +tomb of John Bucktot; this appears however to be erroneous, as it is +evidently the tomb of a layman, and from the chevron on the shield, one +of the Stafford family, anciently lords of Great Pollicott. + +[Sidenote: A retiring place for collegians in the time of the plague.] + + +[C] ASHFIELD. This obscure village gave birth to the celebrated Lord +Chancellor Thurlow, and his brother, the late Bishop of Durham; they +were the sons of the vicar, under whose auspices they were educated. On +leaving the university, the former entered himself of the Inner Temple, +but did not distinguish himself at the bar, until his abilities were +employed upon the Douglas case; after which he became successively +Solicitor-General, Attorney-General, and Lord High Chancellor. He was +elevated to the peerage by the title of Baron Thurlow, of Ashfield. In +1786, he was made Teller of the Exchequer, and created Baron Thurlow, of +Thurlow: he retired in 1793, and died at Brighton in 1806. He was +succeeded in the peerage by his nephew, the son of his brother, the +Bishop of Durham. He was never married, but he left three illegitimate +daughters, to two of whom he bequeathed large property; the other having +offended him by an imprudent marriage, he left her only a small annuity. + +[Sidenote: The birth-place of Lord Chancellor Thurlow.] + + +[D] ASHFORD. This village is frequently called Ashford in the water, +from the lowness of its situation. It is seated on the banks of the +river Wye. The only remains of the residence of the Plantagenets of +Woodstock (who had a castle here) is a moat, half filled with rubbish. +Sir William Cavendish, the favourite of Cardinal Wolsey, purchased this +estate of the Earl of Westmoreland; and the Duke of Devonshire, a +descendant of that family, still continues the proprietor. The works in +this village for sawing and polishing marble, were the first ever +established in England. They were originally constructed by Mr. Henry +Watson, of Bakewell, about 80 years since, but though he obtained a +patent, to secure the gain arising from this invention, the advantages +were unequal to his expectations. Mr. John Platt, architect, of +Rotherham, in Yorkshire, rented the quarries of black and grey marble, +the only ones of the kind now worked in Derbyshire. The sweeping mill, +as it is called, from its circular motion, will level a floor of eighty +superficial feet of marble slabs at one time. + +[Sidenote: Extensive works for sawing and polishing marble.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From + +--+--------------------+---------+-------------+-------------+ + 11|Ashford pa|Devon |Barnstaple 2|Ilfracomb 8| + 21|Ashford[A] m.t. & pa|Kent |Canterbury 15|Folkestone 17| + 25|Ashford[B] chap|Middlesex|Staines 3|Bedfont 2| + 33|Ashford Bowdler pa|Salop |Ludlow 3|Tenbury 6| + 33|Ashford Carbonel pa|Salop |... 3|... 6| + 23|Ashfordby pa|Leicester|Melton Mow. 3|Loughbro' 11| + 29|Ash-holm ham|Northumb |Hexham 19|Haltwhistle 4| + 27|Ashill pa|Norfolk |Watton 4|Swaffham 6| + 34|Ashill[C] pa|Somerset |Ilminster 4|Taunton 8| + 14|Ashingdon[D] pa|Essex |Rochford 3|Maldon 9| + +--+--------------------+---------+-------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+--------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + 11|Ashford pa|Marwood 2| 194| 99| + 21|Ashford[A] m.t. & pa|Maidstone 19| 53| 2809| + 25|Ashford[B] chap|Sunbury 3| 16| 458| + 33|Ashford Bowdler pa|Leominster 9| 137| 99| + 33|Ashford Carbonel pa| ... 9| 137| 289| + 23|Ashfordby pa|Leicester 13| 108| 467| + 29|Ash-holm ham|Aldstone 7| 279| 122| + 27|Ashill pa|E. Dereham 10| 94| 700| + 34|Ashill[C] pa|Chard 7| 137| 403| + 14|Ashingdon[D] pa|Chelmsford 13| 40| 98| + +--+--------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] ASHFORD is situated about twelve miles from the sea, on an eminence +rising from the northern bank of the small river Stour, and on the high +road between Hythe and Maidstone. The town, which is a liberty of +itself, originated from the ruins of Great Chart, an ancient market +town, which gave name to the hundred, and was destroyed in the Danish +wars. It was then called Asscheford, and, in some early documents, +Estefort and Enetesford, from the ford over the river Stour; the ancient +name of which was Esshe or Eschet. It is pleasantly situated near the +confluence of the upper branches of the river Stour, over one of which +there is a bridge. The manor received the privilege of a market so early +as Edward I. The town is governed by a mayor, and possesses a court of +record for the recovery of debts, not exceeding twenty marks. The church +is a spacious and handsome fabric, consisting of a nave, aisles, and +three chancels, with a lofty and well-proportioned tower. There are +several ancient monuments, especially one of a Countess of Athol, who +died in 1365, whose effigy exhibits the female costume of that age, in a +very remarkable manner. The ancient college, founded by Sir John Fogge +owner of the manor, in the reign of Edward IV., was dissolved in that of +Henry VII., and the house given to the vicar for a residence. It still +exists, although latterly much modernised. Here is a Free Grammar +School, founded by Sir Norton Knatchbull, in the reign of Charles I., +and various minor charities. The inhabitants of this town and its +vicinity are much engaged in the rearing and fattening of cattle, for +the sale of which its markets and fairs are much celebrated. + + _Market_ Saturday. A stock market held on the 1st and 3rd Tuesday in + every month.--_Fairs_ May 17, and August 2, for wool; September 9, + October 12, and 24, for horses, cattle and pedlary.--_Inns_, George, + Royal Oak, and Saracen's Head.--_Bankers_, G. and W. Jemmett, draw on + Esdaile and Co.--_Mail_ arrives 8.0 morning; departs 5.15 afternoon. + +[Sidenote: Origin of the town of Ashford.] + +[Sidenote: The college made into a parsonage house:] + + +[B] ASHFORD. This place was originally called Exeford, from its ford +over the river Exe; the village is now but of little importance. It lies +in that level part of the county, formerly occupied by Hounslow Heath, +the terror of the western traveller, from the numerous robberies +committed on its highways. Ashford Common was selected for military +reviews; it has however, for some years been inclosed, and the review +ground is now near Hounslow. The chapel is a plain brick building, +possessing no claims on the attention of the antiquary; it was erected +in 1796 by voluntary contribution. + +[Sidenote: Hounslow Heath.] + + +[C] ASHILL.--_Fairs_, April 9, and September 10. + + +[D] ASHINGDON. This place is memorable in the early periods of our +history. "Nothing is more surprising," observes Gough, in his Additions +to Camden, "than the errors all antiquaries have hitherto lain under +with respect to the scene of the battle between Edmund Ironside and the +Danes." Though they had the authority of Mr. Camden against them, they +have caried it quite across the county to the northern extremity and as +far from the sea as possible, in defiance of every circumstance that +could fix it there. In a marsh in Woodham Mortimer parish, on the river +Burnham or Crouch, are twenty-four barrows grouped in pairs, and most of +them surrounded by a ditch, supposed to be the burial places of the +Danes, who probably landed at Bradwell, a village near the mouth of the +Blackwater River, fourteen miles distant. + +[Sidenote: The site of an engagement between Edm. Ironside and the +Danes.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From + +--+-----------------------+--------+-------------+--------------+ + 29|Ashington to|Northump |Morpeth 5|Blyth 6| + 34|Ashington pa|Somerset |Ilchester 3|Yeovil 4| + 38|Ashington pa|Sussex |Steyning 4|Arundel 9| + 7|Ashley to|Chester |Knutsford 5|Altringham 3| + 28|Ashley pa|Northamp |Rockingham 6|Harborough 5| + 16|Ashley pa|Hants |Stockbridge 3|Winchester 8| + 35|Ashley pa|Stafford |Eccleshall 6|Drayton 6| + 41|Ashley[A] pa|Wilts |Malmesbury 5|Tetbury 3| + 5|Ashley-Green ham|Bucks |Chesham 3|Berkhamp 2| + 6|Ashley-cum-Silvery, pa|Cambridge|Newmarket 5|Mildenhall 10| + 10|Ashley-Hay to|Derby |Wirksworth 2|Belper 6| + 27|Ashmanhaugh pa|Norfolk |Coltishall 3|Worsted 3| + 16|Ashmansworth chap|Hants |Whitchurch 8|Andover 10| + 12|Ashmore pa|Dorset |Shaftesbury 5|Cranborne 12| + 34|Asholt, or Aisholt pa|Somerset |Bridgewater 7|Stowey 3| + 10|Ashover[B] to & pa|Derby |Alfreton 7|Chesterfield 7| + 39|Ashow pa|Warwick |Warwick 5|Kenilworth 3| + 17|Ashperton chap|Hereford |Ledbury 5|Hereford 11| + 11|Ashprington pa|Devon |Totness 3|Brixham 6| + 34|Ash-Priors pa|Somerset |Taunton 6|Wellington 6| + 11|Ashreigney pa|Devon |Chumleigh 4|Torrington 11| + 5|Ashridge[C] ham|Bucks |Chesham 2|Berkhamp 4| + +--+----------------------+---------+-------------+--------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+ + 29|Ashington to|Ulgham 4| 290| 57| + 34|Ashington pa|Sherborne 7| 121| 74| + 38|Ashington pa|Horsham 10| 46| 285| + 7|Ashley to|Cheadle 7| 177| 379| + 28|Ashley pa|Rothwell 8| 86| 304| + 16|Ashley pa|Romsey 8| 67| 93| + 35|Ashley pa|Newcastle 9| 154| 825| + 41|Ashley[A] pa|Kemble 5| 96| 99| + 5|Ashley-Green ham|Tring 5| 27| ...| + 6|Ashley-cum-Silvery, pa|Bury 11| 63| 361| + 10|Ashley-Hay to|Turnditch 3| 138| 241| + 27|Ashmanhaugh pa|Norwich 10| 118| 154| + 16|Ashmansworth chap|Newbury 8| 64| 222| + 12|Ashmore pa|Blandford 8| 101| 191| + 34|Asholt, or Aisholt pa|Taunton 8| 146| 228| + 10|Ashover[B] to & pa|Matlock 3| 147| 3179| + 39|Ashow pa|Coventry 6| 95| 176| + 17|Ashperton chap|Bromyard 11| 125| 398| + 11|Ashprington pa|Dartmouth 6| 198| 549| + 34|Ash-Priors pa|Stowey 9| 147| 201 + 11|Ashreigney pa|Hatherleigh 9| 198| 1038| + 5|Ashridge[C] ham|Tring 5| 29| ...| + +--+----------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+ + + +[A] ASHLEY, was formerly distinguished by a fair and market, it is now +remarkable only for a large mansion, which was once the seat of the +Georges. The church, an ancient building, with a square embattled tower, +is principally interesting for its arches; some of which are round, and +others pointed, resting on slender clustered pillars, with massy +capitals of foliage. The font is large, round, and very rude in its +workmanship. + + +[B] ASHOVER. This village is of great antiquity, being mentioned in the +Doomsday Book, as having a church and a priest. In the church is an +ancient font, supposed to be Saxon; the base is of stone; the lower part +is of an hexagonal form; the upper part circular, surrounded with twenty +figures, in devotional attitudes, embossed in lead, in ornamental +niches. There are also some ancient monuments of the Babington family, +who were for a long time seated at Dithicke, a chapelry in this parish. +Anthony Babington was executed for high treason in the reign of Queen +Elizabeth, having engaged in a conspiracy to destroy that princess. On +the declivity of a hill on Ashover Common is a rocking stone, called +Robin Hood's Mark, which measures about twenty-six feet in +circumference. From its extraordinary position, it appears not only to +have been the work of art, but to have been placed with great ingenuity. +About 200 yards to the north is a singularly shaped work, called the +Turning-stone, nine feet high: it is supposed to have been a rock idol. +Overton Hall, in this vicinity, was once the seat of Sir Joseph Banks, +the President of the Royal Society. + +[Sidenote: A singular rocking stone, formerly an idol.] + + +[C] ASHRIDGE was formerly called Escrug. In very early times this +village is reported to have possessed a royal palace; which, when the +estate became the property of Edmund, Earl of Cornwall, son to Richard, +King of the Romans, was converted into a college for Bonhommes (or monks +who followed the rules of St. Augustine,) and endowed with the manors of +Ashridge, Gaddesden, and Hemel Hempstead. A parliament was held here by +Edward the First, in the year 1291; and, though of short continuance, it +was distinguished by a spirited debate on the origin and necessary use +of fines. After the dissolution, the monastery appears to have become +the seat of royalty; and Norden describes it as the place "wherein our +most worthy and ever famous Queen Elizabeth lodged, as in her owne, +being a more statelie house." This queen, in the 17th year of her reign, +granted it to John Dudley, and John Ayscough, who within the short +period of a fortnight, conveyed it to Henry, Lord Cheny, whose lady sold +it to Ralph Marshal, by whom it was again conveyed to Randolph Crew and +others, and soon afterwards granted to Egerton, Lord Ellesmere, ancestor +to the late Duke of Bridgewater; several of whose family are buried in +the neighbouring church of Little Gaddesden. The old college, the +greater part of which was standing in the year 1800, exhibited a fine +specimen of the gothic architecture of the thirteenth century. The +cloisters were particularly beautiful. The walls were painted in fresco +with Scripture subjects. The late Duke of Bridgewater pulled down the +whole of these buildings, the materials of which were disposed of in +lots; the present earl, the dukedom being extinct, has erected a most +magnificent mansion at a great expense. Ashridge Park, which contains +some very fine oak and beech trees, is pleasingly varied with hill and +dale. It is about five miles in circumference. + +[Sidenote: A parliament held here by Edward I.] + +[Sidenote: The manor house a favourite seat of Queen Elizabeth.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From + +--+------------------+----------+-----------+-------------+ + 37|Ashtead pa|Surrey |Epsom 2|Leatherhead 2| + 7|Ashton to|Chester |Chester 8|Tarporley 7| + 11|Ashton pa|Devon |Chudleigh 4|Exeter 6| + 22|Ashton to|Lancaster |Preston 2|Kirkham 7| + 22|Ashton[A] to|Lancaster |Lancaster 3|Garstang 8| + 28|Ashton pa|Northamp |Northamp 7|Towcester 5| + 28|Ashton ham|Northamp |Wandsford 5|Stamford 5| + 28|Ashton ham|Northamp |Oundle 1|Wandsford 8| + 41|Ashton-Giffard to|Wilts |Warminste 7|Hindon 6| + 15|Ashton chap|Gloucester|Evesham 5|Tewkesbury 8| + 41|Ashton-Keynes pa|Wilts |Cricklade 4|Cirencester 6| + 34|Ashton, Long[B] pa|Somerset |Bristol 3|Keynsham 7| + +--+------------------+----------+-----------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+ + 37|Ashtead pa|Ewell 4| 17| 607| + 7|Ashton to|Frodsham 6| 185| 405| + 11|Ashton pa|Moreton Ha. 6| 174| 333| + 22|Ashton to|Garstang 11| 219| ...| + 22|Ashton[A] to|Overton 3| 237| 213| + 28|Ashton pa|Stoney Strat. 7| 62| 380| + 28|Ashton ham|M. Deeping 4| 89| 126| + 28|Ashton ham|Stilton 8| 81| 129| + 41|Ashton-Giffard to|Wilton 12| 90| ...| + 15|Ashton chap|Winchcomb 8| 102| 301| + 41|Ashton-Keynes pa|Malmesbury 8| 89| 1182| + 34|Ashton, Long[B] pa|Axbridge 14| 120| 1423| + +--+------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] ASHTON. Near this village is Ashton Hall, a seat of his Grace the +Duke of Hamilton. It formerly belonged to the family of the Laurences, +but came into the present family by the marriage of James, Earl of +Arran, afterwards Duke of Hamilton, with Elizabeth, daughter and heir of +Lord Gerrard Digby, of Bromley. The mansion is a large building, with +some square embattled towers, an ancient hall, and other features of a +magnificent baronial castle. It is situated in a fine park, through +which flows a small rivulet, forming a narrow bay, at the western side +of the grounds. The park abounds with wood, and is agreeably diversified +with hill and dale, and affords, from many parts, extensive views across +the river Lune to Morecambe Bay, the Irish sea, &c. The mansion has +undergone considerable alteration, yet care has been taken to preserve +its ancient character. + + _Mail_ arrives at Galgate Bridge, one mile distant, 9.20 P.M.; + departs 2.20 morn. + +[Sidenote: Seat of the Duke of Hamilton.] + + +[B] ASHTON, or LONG ASHTON, is situated in a rich woody vale, protected +on the north by a range of picturesque though bleak hills, and on the +north lies the lofty ridge of Dundry. In this parish the inhabitants +raise fruit and vegetables for the Bristol market. There is much +garden-ground in Long Ashton, in which many Roman coins have been +discovered. The houses are in general well-built, much company resorting +thither during the summer season. The circumjacent scenery is +delightful, and in the vicinity are the remains of two Roman +encampments, Stokeleigh and Burwalls. The church is an old but very +handsome building, founded by the family of Lyons; the nave and aisles +are divided from the chancel by a beautiful gothic screen of fret and +flower work, painted and gilt, and executed in the most admirable style. +One of the 6 bells contained in the tower is inscribed "Sancte Johannes +Baptiste ora pro nobis;" on the tower are the arms of Lyons, in stone. +Amongst several painted figures and coats of arms on the glass of the +windows, are the portraits of Edward IV. and his Queen, Elizabeth +Widville. Here are several handsome monuments, but that of Sir Richard +Choke and his lady is eminently magnificent and beautiful. Ashton Court, +the manor house, originally founded by the Lyons family, but materially +altered by Inigo Jones, occupies the S.E. slope of Ashton Down, and the +remains of another old manor house, called the Lower Court, still stands +in a valley to the S.W. of the village. + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From + +--+-------------------------+---------+------------+------------+ + 22|Ashton-under-Lyne[A] p|Lancaster|Manchester 7|Stockport 7| + 22|Ashton-in-Mackerfield}[B]| | | | + | o & chap } |Lancaster|Newton 3|Prescot 7| + 7|Ashton-upon-Mersey } | | | | + | to & pa } |Chester |Stockport 9|Manchester 7| + +--+-------------------------+---------+------------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-------------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+ + 22|Ashton-under-Lyne[A] p|Mottram 5| 186| 33597| + 22|Ashton-in-Mackerfield}[B]| | | | + | o & chap } |Wigan 5| 196| 5912| + 7|Ashton-upon-Mersey } | | | | + | to & pa } |Altringham 4| 184| 2078| + +--+-------------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] ASHTON-UNDER-LYNE is a large town situated at the south-eastern +extremity of the county. It consists of several narrow streets, built on +a high bank, which rises from the river Tame. It appears from an ancient +manuscript, that Ashton was formerly a borough, yet for some centuries +it sent no members to Parliament; but, by the Reform Bill of 1832, it +now returns one member, and the mayor of the town is the returning +officer. The borough comprises the whole district, over which the +lighting and paving act of the 7th and 8th of Geo. IV. extends. A court +is held here for the recovery of debts, not exceeding five pounds, by +48th Geo. III. c. 18; any person may sue, under the general regulations, +and defendants sued elsewhere are to have their costs. Defendants +removing out of the jurisdiction, may be followed in person and goods, +by removing the record to the superior courts, but wagers, &c. are not +recoverable. The principal part of the landed property of this parish +belongs to the Earl of Stamford, in whose family it was conveyed, by the +marriage of Sir William Booth to the daughter of Sir Thomas Asheton, +whose family possessed some peculiar privileges in this manor: among +which was, the power of life and death over their tenantry. In +commemoration of this privilege, and its having been sometimes +exercised, a field near the old hall is still called Gallows Meadow. +There is also an ancient custom here, called "riding the black lad," +celebrated every Easter Monday, to perpetuate some act of great tyranny +exercised by Sir Ralph Asheton, in 1483, when vice-constable of England. +The ceremony consists in exhibiting the effigies of a man on horseback +through the streets, which is afterwards suspended on the cross in the +market place, and there shot. The figure was formerly cased in armour, +and the expenses of it were defrayed by the court. Another account of +the origin of this custom states, that Thomas Asheton, in the reign of +Henry III., particularly distinguished himself at the battle of +Neville's Cross, and bore away the standard from the Scotch King's tent. +For this heroic deed the King conferred on Ashton the honour of +Knighthood, who, on his arrival at his manor instituted the custom +described. At the village of Fairfield, in this parish, there is a +Moravian settlement, who have erected a chapel for their followers. The +males are principally employed in spinning and weaving: they form a very +industrious and orderly community. On the western side of the town is +Ashton Moss, which supplies the poor with peat turf. Oak and fir trees +are frequently found by those who dig for the peat. + + _Market_, Wednesday.--_Fairs_, March 23, April 29, July 25, and + November 21, for horned cattle, horses, and toys.--_Bankers_, + Buckley, Roberts, and Co.; draw in London on Jones, Lloyd, and + Co.--_Inn_, Commercial Hotel. + +[Sidenote: Court of Requests for the recovery of L5. Defendants may be +followed.] + +[Sidenote: The lord of the manor possessed a power of life and death.] + +[Sidenote: Custom of riding the black lad.] + +[Sidenote: Moravian settlement.] + + +[B] ASHTON. This village is generally called Ashton in Makerfield, or +Ashton in the Willows; it enjoys a very pleasant situation on the road +between Newton and Wigan. The hardware and cotton manufactories give +employment to the inhabitants. The church is a large old building, part +of which appears to have been erected by the lords of the manor. On the +pews are some ancient carvings; and in the windows are exhibited some +painted figures. Several of the Ashtons lie interred here, and their +names are inscribed on the windows. Near the church is a curious +mansion, called the Old Hall, the oldest parts of which are said to have +been built in 1483; adjoining this stands a pile, which was formerly +used as a prison. + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From + +--+-------------------------+---------+--------------+---------------+ + 41|Ashton-Steeple[A] pa & ti|Wilts |Trowbridge 3|Melksham 4| + 41|Ashton, West to|Wilts | ... 3| ... 5| + 21|Ashurst pa|Kent |Tunbridge 7|Tunbr. Wells 5| + 38|Ashurst pa|Sussex |Steyning 4|Henfield 3| + 11|Ashwater pa|Devon |Holsworthy 7|Oakhampton 14| + 18|Ashwell[B] pa|Herts |Baldock 4|Royston 6| + 32|Ashwell pa|Rutland |Oakham 4|Cottesmere 3| + 27|Ashwell-Thorpe pa|Norfolk |Wymondham 3|Attleburgh 7| + 34|Ashwick pa|Somerset |Shepton Mall 4|Frome 9| + 27|Ashwicken pa|Norfolk |Lynn 5|Castle Rising 5| + 35|Ashwood ham|Stafford |Stourbridge 4|Dudley 3| + 22|Ashworth chap|Lancaster|Rochdale 3|Bury 3| + 43|Aske to|N.R. York|Richmond 2|Reeth 8| + +--+-------------------------+---------+--------------+---------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-------------------------+------------------------+-----+---------+ + 41|Ashton-Steeple[A] pa & ti|Devizes 7| 96| 1754| + 41|Ashton, West to| ... 9| 98| 374| + 21|Ashurst pa|Groombridge 2| 34| 206| + 38|Ashurst pa|W. Grinstead 4| 47| 423| + 11|Ashwater pa|Launceston 8| 209| 862| + 18|Ashwell[B] pa|Biggleswade 6| 41| 1072| + 32|Ashwell pa|Overton 3| 99| 209| + 27|Ashwell-Thorpe pa|Buckenham 7| 100| 471| + 34|Ashwick pa|Wells 6| 118| 995| + 27|Ashwicken pa|Swaffham 10| 98| 80| + 35|Ashwood ham|Wolverhamp. 6| 123| ...| + 22|Ashworth chap|Manchester 11| 192| 294| + 43|Aske to|Darlington 11| 235| 105| + +--+-------------------------+------------------------+-----+---------+ + + +[A] ASHTON, or STEEPLE ASHTON is remarkable for its lofty and elegant +church, which was built about the year 1480, though the chapels and a +part of the chancel appear of a still earlier date. The tower which is +high and handsome, was formerly surmounted by a spire or steeple, whence +the village had its distinctive appellation. An inscription informs us +that, in the year 1670, the spire being in height 93 feet above the +tower, was rent by a violent thunder storm, and that in the same year, +being almost re-erected, it was by a second storm again destroyed. The +roof of the nave is formed by intersecting arches, which rest on +canopied niches, adorned with whole length figures or flowers; and that +of the aisles is profusely decorated with sculpture and tracery work, +while the windows display some splendid remains of painted glass, the +whole corresponding with the exterior in style and effect. Plot informs +us that there was dug up at Steeple Ashton, a pavement, which he +considered to be Roman, though different in materials and design from +those commonly regarded as such. The Madrepore stone is found among the +fossil productions of Ashton. Rowd Ashton, the seat of Richard Godolphin +Long, Esq., is situated in a large and well wooded park. The Kennet and +Avon canal from London to Bristol passes near this village. + +[Sidenote: The church steeple twice thrown down by storms.] + + +[B] ASHWELL. This village, situate on the river Rhee, on the borders of +Cambridgeshire, derives its present name from Escewelle, and is supposed +by Camden to be of Roman origin, from the frequent discovery of Roman +coins, and sepulchral urns, in an adjacent earthwork, or fortification, +called Arbury banks. It is in a low situation on the northern edge of +the county. Here a considerable spring breaks out from a rocky bank +overhung with lofty ash-trees, from which a continued quantity of water +flows, and being quickly collected into one channel, turns a mill, and +soon after becomes a river. From this spring and these ash-trees, it is +supposed the Saxons gave it the name of Ashwell. The village was +anciently a demesne of the Saxon kings; but before the time of Edward +the Confessor, it was granted to the Abbots of St. Peter's, at +Westminster, to whom it continued to belong till the dissolution, when +the Abbey was erected into a deanery, and after that into a bishopric; +it, however, followed the fate of similar foundations; and when the +bishopric was dissolved, in the reign of Edward VI., it was granted, +with other manors, to the see of London, in which it is still invested. +The church consists of a nave, aisle, and chancel, with a tower at the +west-end, surmounted by a spire. In the chancel are several slabs, +formerly inlaid with brasses. Among the inscriptions, Weever notices one +with the words, "Orate pro--Walter Sommoner." "I reade," says Weever, +"that one Walter Sumner held the manor of Ashwell of the King, by pettie +sergeantie; viz. to find the king spits to rost his meate upon the day +of his coronation: and John Sumner, his sonne, held the same manor by +service, to turne a spit in the king's kitchen upon the day of his +coronation." + +[Sidenote: Powerful spring oozing from a rock.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From + +--+------------------------+----------+------------+--------------+ + 45|Askerne or Askeron[A] to|W.R. York |Doncaster 7|Ferry-bridge 8| + 11|Askerswell pa|Dorset |Bridport 4|Beaminster 8| + 9 |Askerton[B] to|Cumberland|Carlisle 13|Longtown 12| + 30|Askham chap|Nottingham|Tuxford 3|Gamston 3| + 40|Askham[C] to & pa|Westmor |Penrith 4|Lowther 2| + 43|Askham Bryan to & pa|N.R. York |York 4|Tadcaster 6| + 43|Askham pa|N.R. York |York 5| ... 5| + 43|Askrigg[D] m.t. & chap|N.R. York |Middleham 12|Reeth 7| + +--+------------------------+----------+------------+--------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+------------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+ + 45|Askerne or Askeron[A] to|Snaith 10| 169| 256| + 11|Askerswell pa|Abbotsbury 7| 131| 228| + 9 |Askerton[B] to|Brampton 5| 316| 473| + 30|Askham chap|E. Retford 6| 140| 329| + 40|Askham[C] to & pa|Bampton 4| 280| 587| + 43|Askham Bryan to & pa|Wetherby 10| 196| 341| + 43|Askham pa| ... 9| 195| 234| + 43|Askrigg[D] m.t. & chap|Hawes 5| 246| 737| + +--+------------------------+----------+------------+--------------+ + + +[A] ASKERNE. This village is one of the numerous places in the West +Riding, which enjoys the distinction of a mineral spring. The water +resembles that of Harrowgate Spa; but taken internally, differs +materially in its operation, acting chiefly as a diuretic without any of +that cathartic or purgative power, for which the Harrowgate waters are +so remarkable. The village is situated at the foot of a hill; the spring +rises at the distance of a few yards only from a piece of water called +Askerne Pool, seven acres in extent, and is much frequented by rheumatic +or scorbutic patients, who seldom fail to obtain the relief which they +seek. Near this place it is said the British Prince Ambrosius defeated +and put to death the fierce Saxon leader Hengist. + +[Sidenote: The Saxon leader Hengist put to death.] + + +[B] ASKERTON. At this village there is a castle which was built by the +Barons Dacre. This well known name is derived from the exploits of one +of their ancestors at the siege of Acre, or Ptolemais, under Richard +Coeur de Lion. There were two powerful branches of that name. The +first family, called Lord Dacres of the South, held the castle of the +same name, and are ancestors to the present Lord Dacre. The other +family, descended from the same stock, were called Lord Dacres of the +North, and were Barons of Gillesland and Graystock. A chieftain of the +latter branch was warden of the West Marshes, during the reign of Edward +VI. He was a man of a hot and obstinate character, as appears from some +particulars of Lord Surrey's letter to Henry VIII., giving an account of +his behaviour at the siege and storm of Jedburgh. The castle was +formerly garrisoned by the Serjeant of Gillesland, who sometimes +commanded and led the inhabitants against the Scots. + +[Sidenote: Seat of Lord Dacre.] + + +[C] ASKHAM. This place consists of two manors. The hall, built in 1574, +on the river Lowther, has an embattled roof, and a sombre aspect well +suited to the gloom of the surrounding scenery. Several remarkable heaps +of stones, among which, one is called the Druid's Cross, are in this +neighbourhood; and also a large cairn, called the White-raise. + + _Mail_ arrives at Lowther 1-1/2 miles distant 2.30 morning; departs 8 + evening. + +[Sidenote: Druid's Cross.] + + +[D] ASKRIGG. This ancient market town is situated near the river Ure and +Swaledale Forest: it resembles a large village, and the occupations of +the inhabitants are principally the knitting of stockings and making +butter or cheese. It is remarkable, chiefly, for some considerable +cataracts in its neighbourhood: as Millgill Force, a fall of from twenty +to thirty yards; Whitfields Force, a grand specimen of the picturesque; +and Hardrow Force, where the water falls in one grand sheet from a +perpendicular height of one hundred feet. This town is one of the +polling places appointed under the Reform Bill of 1832, for the North +Riding. + + _Market_, Thursday.--_Fairs_, May 10, horned cattle; May 12, and + first Thursday in June, woollen cloth, pewter, brass, and milliners' + goods; October 28, horned cattle; October 29, woollens, &c. + +[Sidenote: Cataract 100 feet in height.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From + +--+-------------------+----------+---------------+------------+ + 45|Askwith to|W.R. York |Otley 3|Skipton 12| + 24|Aslackby[A] pa|Lincoln |Folkingham 2|Bourn 7| + 27|Aslacton pa|Norfolk |Stratton 4|Buckenham 5| + 30|Aslacton pa|Nottingham|Bingham 2|Newark 12| + 36|Aspall pa|Suffolk |Eye 6|Debenham 2| + 36|Aspal Stoneham pa|Suffolk |Debenham 4|Needham 5| + 9|Aspatria[B] to & pa|Cumberland|Cockermouth 8|Wigton 9| + 18|Aspedon pa|Herts |Buntingford 1|Stevenage 9| + 35|Aspley to|Stafford |Eccleshall 1|Stone 6| + 39|Aspley ham|Warwick |Henley-in Ar. 2|Alcester 7| + 3|Aspley Guise pa|Bedford |Woburn 2|Ampthill 7| + 22|Aspull to|Lancaster |Wigan 3|Bolton 8| + 46|Asselby to|E.R. York |Howden 2|Selby 7| + 31|Assendon[C] to|Oxford |Henley-on-T. 4|Watlington 7| + +--+-------------------+----------+---------------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-------------------+--------------------------+-----+------+ + 45|Askwith to|Ripley 12| 208| 400| + 24|Aslackby[A] pa|Corby 9| 104| 455| + 27|Aslacton pa|Diss 9| 97| 359| + 30|Aslacton pa|Nottingham 11| 123| 289| + 36|Aspall pa|Framlingham 9| 85| 126| + 36|Aspal Stoneham pa|Stowmarket 7| 80| 633| + 9|Aspatria[B] to & pa|Allonby 4| 311| 761| + 18|Aspedon pa|Puckeridge 9| 31| 560| + 35|Aspley to|Stafford 7| 148| 26| + 39|Aspley ham|Stratford 7| 99| 106| + 3|Aspley Guise pa|Wavenden 3| 43| 1014| + 22|Aspull to|Chorley 7| 203| 2464| + 46|Asselby to|Snaith 7| 178| 297| + 31|Assendon[C] to|Nettlebed 3| 39| ...| + +--+-------------------+--------------------------+-----+------+ + + +[A] ASLACKBY. In this village, which is on the direct road from London +to Lincoln, there was a commandery, or associated body of Knights +Templars, founded in the time of Richard I., by John le Mareshall. It +afterwards served for the hospitallers, and at the suppression of this +society, the property was transferred to Edward, Lord Clinton. A +farm-house, which now occupies the site of the old circular church, is +called the temple. Of that ancient structure there yet remains a square +embattled tower of two stories. The lower story is vaulted, and formed +of eight groins, in the centre of which is displayed eight shields, and +various coats of arms. The parish church is a handsome building, with an +embattled tower at the west end. A castle formerly stood here, but no +vestiges of the walls can now be seen: remnants, however, of the foss +and earthworks point out the spot where it was situated. + + _Mail_ arrives 7.40 morn.; departs 6.45 evening. + +[Sidenote: Ancient village.] + + +[B] ASPATRIA, or ASPATRIC, is a long straggling village on the side of a +hill, about five miles distant from the Irish sea. It now forms part of +the estate of the Earl of Egremont, but is supposed to have derived its +name from Gospatrick, Earl of Dunbar. On removing the earth of a barrow, +which stood at Beacon-hill, an eminence about 200 yards to the north of +the village, in the year 1790, a human skeleton was found in a kind of +chest, or kistvaen, formed by two large cobblestones at each end, and +the same on each side. The feet were decayed and rotted off, but from +the head to the ancle-bone, the skeleton measured seven feet. On +exposure to the atmospheric air the other bones soon mouldered away. +Near the shoulder, on the left side, was a broad sword five feet long, +the guard of which was elegantly inlaid with silver flowers: a dirk, or +dagger, lay on the right side; it was one foot and a half long, and the +handle seemed to have been studded with silver. There were likewise +found part of a golden fibula, or buckle, a broken battle-axe, an +ornament for the end of a belt, a part of which yet remained, part of a +spur, and a bit resembling a modern snaffle. Various figures, rudely +sculptured, remained on the stones which enclosed the left side of the +chest; they chiefly represented circles, each having within a cross in +relief. Hayman Rooke, Esq., the learned antiquary, from whose account +the above particulars are taken, supposed that the personage whose +remains were found was buried soon after the first dawning of +Christianity; and also, inferred from the rich ornaments found in the +tomb, that he was a chieftain of high rank. + +[Sidenote: Prodigious skeleton, 7ft. from the head to the ancle-bone.] + +[Sidenote: Ancient relics found.] + + +[C] ASSENDON. At this township is a land spring, reputed the most +eminent of its kind in England. The water only appears after a +continuance of wet weather, but then issues forth in such abundance, +that mills might be turned by the current, and the adjacent lowlands are +inundated. This spring has been supposed by some to act on the principle +of a natural syphon, and to be supplied from subterranean sources; but +this is evidently erroneous, as the seasons of its flowing are uniformly +after heavy rains. + +[Sidenote: Wonderful spring.] + + Map|Names of Places.| County. | Number of Miles From + +--+----------------+---------+------------+-------------+ + 36|Assington pa|Suffolk |Neyland 4|Sudbury 5| + 45|Asson-Thorpe ham|W.R. York|Thorne 4|Snaith 5| + 7|Astbury[A] pa|Chester |Congleton 2|Sandbach 6| + 24|Asterby pa|Lincoln |Horncastle 7|Louth 7| + 31|Asthall[B] pa|Oxford |Burford 2|Witney 6| + 22|Astley chap|Lancaster|Newton 6|Manchester 11| + 33|Astley chap|Salop |Shrewsbury 0|Wellington 11| + 39|Astley[C] pa|Warwick |Nuneaton 4|Coleshill 7| + 42|Astley[D] pa|Worcester|Bewdley 5|Worcester 9| + +--+----------------+---------+------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places.|Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------+----------------------+-----+-------+ + 36|Assington pa|Hadleigh 7| 57| 641| + 45|Asson-Thorpe ham|Doncaster 9| 170| | + 7|Astbury[A] pa|Leek 10| 160| 14637| + 24|Asterby pa|M. Raisin. 13| 143| 231| + 31|Asthall[B] pa|Charlbury 8| 70| 352| + 22|Astley chap|Bolton 7| 195| 1832| + 33|Astley chap|Oswestry 18| 153| 239| + 39|Astley[C] pa|Coventry 7| 98| 340| + 42|Astley[D] pa|Kiddermins 5| 121| 849| + +--+----------------+----------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] ASTBURY, or AUSTBURY, is an extensive village and contains several +gentlemen's seats. The church is a handsome gothic structure, with a +lofty steeple. In the church yard are two ancient monuments, ornamented +with the insignia of knighthood, but the names of the families whose +memories they were intended to record are now lost. The parish of +Astbury contains no less than twelve townships, of which the market town +of Congleton is one. Each of these townships has its overseer and other +officers, but the whole parish is under the government of one +church-warden, the office of which is served in rotation by eight +persons, vulgarly denominated the "Posts of the Parish;" though they +should properly be called Provosts. + +[Sidenote: Contains 12 townships.] + + +[B] ASTHALL. At this village is an old manorial mansion, now used as a +farm-house, which was formerly the residence of Sir Richard Jones, one +of the Judges of the Court of Common Pleas in the reign of Charles the +First. In the north aisle of the church stands a large stone coffin, +said to contain the remains of Alice Corbett, concubine to Henry I. + + _Mail_ arrives 5 morning; departs 9.35 evening. + +[Sidenote: Alice Corbett.] + + +[C] ASTLEY. This manor was held, in the reign of Henry II., by Philip de +Estley, of the Earl of Warwick, by the service of holding the Earl's +stirrup when he mounted or alighted from his horse. From this person are +descended two families, seated at Hill Morton, in this county, and at +Patshull, in Staffordshire. In the reign of Henry V. the estate passed +by marriage to the Greys of Ruthin, from whom it descended to Henry +Grey, Marquis of Dorset, and Duke of Suffolk, beheaded in the reign of +Queen Mary, for an attempt to make Lady Jane Grey queen. The manor +belongs at present to F.P. Newdigate, Esq. Astley Castle is surrounded +by a moat, along the inner edge of which lie the remains of massive +walls. The habitable part of the mansion is probably not older than the +time of Mary; but it is clad in a garb of ivy, and other evergreens, +which renders it singularly picturesque. In one room is preserved a +portrait of the factious Suffolk, respecting whose capture the following +particulars are related:--"Finding that he was forsaken, he put himself +under the trust of one Underwood, as it is said, a keeper of his park +here at Astley, who hid him for some few days in a large hollow tree, +standing about two bow-shots from the church; but, being promised a +reward, he betrayed him." The church of Astley having been made +collegiate, by Lord Thomas de Astley, was by him rebuilt, and adorned +with a spire, so lofty that it served as a land-mark in the deep +wood-lands of the district, and was popularly termed "The lanthorn of +Arden."--The interior is curious and interesting, although many +monuments and decorations have been removed or destroyed at various +times. On an altar-tomb at the west-end are the effigies, in alabaster, +of a warrior and a lady; and on another, is the mutilated figure of a +female in a recumbent posture: both are without inscription. + +[Sidenote: Singular tenure.] + +[Sidenote: Lord Suffolk betrayed by his keeper.] + + +[D] ASTLEY. This village is situated on the Severn, it was noted before +the dissolution, for its priory of Benedictines, and is now remarkable +chiefly for a hermitage formed in the living rock, and recently +converted into an ale-house. The church, built in the Saxon style of +architecture, contains some monuments and a few fragments of stained +glass. Here is the ancient seat called Glasshampton. + +[Sidenote: Hermitage.] + + Map|Names of Places.| County. | Number of Miles From + +--+-----------------+----------+---------------+-------------+ + 33|Astley Abbots pa|Salop |Bridgenorth 2|M. Wenlock 7| + 5|Aston ham|Bucks |Ivinghoe 1|Dunstable 7| + 7|Aston to|Chester |Northwich 3|Warrington 8| + 7|Aston to & chap|Chester |Frodsham 3|Northwich 8| + 10|Aston ham|Derby |Tideswell 6|Castleton 2| + 53|Aston to|Flint |Hawarden 2|Flint 6| + 17|Aston pa|Hereford |Ludlow 4|Leominster 10| + 18|Aston[A] pa|Herts |Stevenage 3|Watton 4| + 56|Aston to|Montgomery|Ch. Stretton 10|Montgomery 7| + 31|Aston ham|Oxford |Witney 5|Bampton 2| + 35|Aston to|Stafford |Drayton 6|Newcastle 6| + 39|Aston[B] pa|Warwick |Birmingham 2|Tamworth 13| + 46|Aston[C] to & pa|N.R. York |Rotherham 6|Sheffield 8| + +--+-----------------+----------+---------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places.| Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------+--------------------------+-----+-------+ + 33|Astley Abbots pa|Madeley 6| 142| 666| + 5|Aston ham|Leighton 5| 34| 406| + 7|Aston to|Frodsham 9| 176| 409| + 7|Aston to & chap|Warrington 8| 181| 197| + 10|Aston ham|Derwent 3| 164| 104| + 53|Aston to|Chester 6| 197| 237| + 17|Aston pa|Wigmore 4| 143| 56| + 18|Aston[A] pa|Welwyn 6| 30| 494| + 56|Aston to|Bishop's Cas. 2| 161| 84| + 31|Aston ham|Ensham 7| 69| 699| + 35|Aston to|Eccleshall 8| 154| 277| + 39|Aston[B] pa|Coleshill 9| 111| 32118| + 46|Aston[C] to & pa|Maltby 6| 156| 564| + +--+-----------------+--------------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] ASTON. The village and manor of Aston was an ancient demesne of the +Saxon kings. Henry VIII. granted the manor to Sir John Boteler, of +Walton Wood Hall; but the house now standing at Aston Place, indicates +earlier antiquity than the time of that sovereign. Westward of the +village, on the eastern side of the great North road, are six large +barrows, thought to be of Danish origin; from their immediate proximity +to the road-side they excite the curiosity and attention of most persons +travelling northward: two of them have been opened, but were not found +to contain any thing of sufficient interest to be here recorded. + +[Sidenote: The six hills.] + + +[B] ASTON is in the Birmingham division of the Hundred of Hemlingford. +It may be deemed a part of Birmingham, being inhabited chiefly by +artisans in the various branches of manufacture for which that town is +distinguished. Aston Hall, the seat of Heneage Legge, Esq., was first +erected by Sir Thomas Holt, Bart. in the reign of James I. It was +several times plundered during the troubles of his successor, who was +entertained here for two nights a short time before the battle of +Edgehill, which occurred on October 23, 1642, between the Royalists and +the Parliamentary forces. Sir T. Holt endowed an alms-house for five +poor men and women in this parish. + +[Sidenote: Part of Birmingham.] + + +[C] ASTON, is a parish and township with Aughton, in the wapentake of +Strafforth and Tickhill. In the church, which is dedicated to All +Saints, is an ancient monument, under which lie buried Lord D'Arcy and +his three wives. There is also a marble slab to the memory of the poet +Mason, who was rector of this parish. This distinguished poet was the +son of a clergyman in Yorkshire, in which county he was born in the year +1725. He became a student of St. John's College, Cambridge, and +subsequently a fellow of Pembroke Hall, in the same university. His +debut in the literary world was made by the publication of "Isis," a +poem, in which he satirized the Jacobitish and High Church principles of +the University of Oxford. A reply was written by Thomas Warton, entitled +"The Triumph of Isis." In 1752 he published a tragedy with choral odes +on the ancient Greek model, called "Elfrida." Having taken orders in the +church, he was presented with the living of Aston, and appointed one of +the royal chaplains. In 1759 appeared his "Caractacus," a drama on a +kindred plan with the former. Both of these pieces were afterwards +introduced on the stage, they however met with very little success. In +1762, Mr. Mason was made precentor of York, to which preferment a +canonry was annexed. One of his principal works, entitled "The English +Garden," a poem, in four books, appeared in the years 1772, 1777, 1779, +and 1781. 4to.; this was translated into French and German. In 1775 he +published the exquisite poems of his friend Gray, with a Memoir of his +Life. At the beginning of the American War, Mr. Mason became so active +an advocate for freedom, as to give offence at court, and he was in +consequence dismissed from his chaplainship. It is said he felt alarmed +at the frightful consequences of the French Revolution, and his zeal +cooled towards the latter end of his life. He died April 7, 1797. + +[Sidenote: The poet Mason's monument.] + +[Sidenote: An advocate for freedom dismissed from his chaplainship.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From + +--+---------------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ + 5|Aston-Abbots pa|Bucks |Aylesbury 5|Winslow 7| + 15|Aston-Blank pa|Gloucester|Northleach 4|Stow 5| + 33|Aston-Botterill pa|Salop |Bridgenorth 9|Cleobury 7| + 39|Aston-Cantlow pa|Warwick |Alcester 4|Henley 4| + 5|Aston-Clinton[A] to & pa|Bucks |Tring 4|Ivinghoe 5| + 33|Aston-Eyre to|Salop |Bridgenorth 3|M. Wenlock 5| + 23|Aston-Flamville to & p|Leicester |Hinckley 3|Lutterworth 8| + 7|Aston-Grange to|Chester |Frodsham 4|Northwich 7| + 17|Aston-Ingham pa|Hereford |Ross 6|Ledbury 10| + 28|Aston on the Walls, to & pa|Northamp |Banbury 8|Daventry 9| + 42|Aston-Magna ham|Worcester |Moreton 3|Shipston 6| + 31|Aston-Middle to & pa|Oxford |Deddington 3|Woodstock 8| + 7|Aston-Mondrum to|Chester |Nantwich 4|Tarporley 8| + 31|Aston-North pa|Oxford |Deddington 2|Bicester 9| + 31|Aston-Rowant pa|Oxford |Tetsworth 4|Thame 4| + 5|Aston-Sandford pa|Bucks |Thame 4|Aylesbury 6| + 15|Aston-Somerville pa|Gloucester|Evesham 4|Broadway 4| + 31|Aston-Steeple[B] to & pa|Oxford |Deddington 4|Woodstock 7| + 15|Aston-Subege pa|Gloucester|Campden 2|Evesham 6| + 4|Aston-Tirrold pa|Berks |Wallingford 6|E. Illsley 6| + 15|Aston-upon-Carron pa and ti|Gloucester|Tewkesbury 2|Cheltenham 9| + 10|Aston-upon-Trent pa|Derby |Derby 6|Ashby 10| + 4|Aston-Upthorpe ham|Berks |Wallingford 6|Wantage 9| + 28|Astrope, or Asthorpe[C] ham|Northamp |Brackley 6|Banbury 4| + 28|Astwell[D] ham|Northamp | ... 6|Towcester 5| + +--+---------------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ + |Dist.|Popul + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|-ation. + +--+---------------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ + 5|Aston-Abbots pa|Leighton 6| 40| 303| + 15|Aston-Blank pa|Winchcomb 11| 86| 295| + 33|Aston-Botterill pa|Ludlow 9| 143| 260| + 39|Aston-Cantlow pa|Stratford 6| 99| 940| + 5|Aston-Clinton[A] to & pa|Aylesbury 4| 35| 1001| + 33|Aston-Eyre to|Madeley 7| 143| 63| + 23|Aston-Flamville to & p|Leicester 13| 97| 1703| + 7|Aston-Grange to|Warrington 8| 181| 36| + 17|Aston-Ingham pa|Newent 3| 120| 591| + 28|Aston on the Walls, to & pa|Towcester 11| 71| 240| + 42|Aston-Magna ham|Broadway 4| 89| 254| + 31|Aston-Middle to & pa|Bicester 9| 64| 121| + 7|Aston-Mondrum to|Middlewich 7| 168| 159| + 31|Aston-North pa|Woodstock 9| 64| 305| + 31|Aston-Rowant pa|Watlington 4| 39| 946| + 5|Aston-Sandford pa|P. Risboro' 5| 42| 82| + 15|Aston-Somerville pa|Winchcombe 7| 98| 103| + 31|Aston-Steeple[B] to & pa|Bicester 9| 64| 562| + 15|Aston-Subege pa|Broadway 4| 92| 103| + 4|Aston-Tirrold pa|Streatley 5| 50| 343| + 15|Aston-upon-Carron pa and ti|Evesham 10| 104| 166| + 10|Aston-upon-Trent pa|Loughboro 11| 121| 620| + 4|Aston-Upthorpe ham|Abingdon 8| 52| 172| + 28|Astrope, or Asthorpe[C] ham|Deddington 5| 69| | + 28|Astwell[D] ham|Daventry 13| 64| 118| + +--+---------------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] ASTON CLINTON is in the first division of Aylesbury hundred. The +manor was the property of the late Lord Lake, who died in 1808, during +the trial of General Whitelock, who was cashiered for his misconduct at +Buenos Ayres at the commencement of that year. At St. Leonard's, a +hamlet of this parish, about four miles from Aston church, is an ancient +chapel, said to have been a chantry chapel to the Abbey of Missenden. It +contains, among other monuments, that of General Cornelius Wood, an +officer who distinguished himself in the reign of Queen Anne, and who +died in 1712. It is ornamented with a bust of the general in white +marble, surrounded with military trophies. This chapel is endowed with +an estate, vested in ten trustees, who have the appointment of the +minister. + +[Sidenote: Monument of one of Queen Anne's officers.] + + +[B] STEEPLE ASTON. At this village, Dr. Samuel Radcliffe, principal of +Brazennose College, Oxford, and rector of this church, founded a free +school in 1640, and endowed it with ten pounds per annum; he died in the +year 1648, and is buried in the church. He also endowed an alms-house +for poor women in this parish. A tessalated pavement was ploughed up +here in the 17th century. + +[Sidenote: Dr. Samuel Radcliffe.] + + +[C] ASTROPE. This hamlet is in the parish of King's Sutton. The village +is worthy of remark, from the church having a tower crowned with a +handsome and lofty spire, decorated with crocketed pinnacles. Here is a +remarkably fine mineral spring, called St. Rumbald's Well, which was +formerly in considerable repute. When drank at the fountain head, the +water is considered a specific in cases of female obstructions, and in +the first and second stages of consumptions. In the jaundice it seldom +fails; and in dropsical cases is frequently administered with success. +Persons whose constitutions have been weakened by free living, find +themselves renovated by its virtues. The water has a brisk pleasant +taste, and is very clear and spirituous. Astrope Hall was formerly the +residence of the Lord Chief Justice Willes. + +[Sidenote: A mineral spring famous for curing consumption, jaundice, +&c.] + + +[D] ASTWELL. In this hamlet is an ancient mansion, formerly the seat of +the Earl of Ferrers. Several of the rooms exhibit in the wainscot and +chimney pieces, armorial bearings and other carved decorations. A +dilapidated room at the east end was formerly a chapel. + +[Sidenote: Seat of Earl Ferrers] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From + +--+----------------------------+---------+-------------+-------------+ + 3|Astwick pa|Bedford |Biggleswade 5|Shefford 6| + 5|Astwood pa|Bucks |Newport Pag 6|Woburn 10| + 24|Aswarby pa|Lincoln |Folkingham 4|Sleaford 5| + 24|Aswardby pa|Lincoln |Spilsby 4|Alford 7| + 33|Atcham pa|Salop |Shrewsbury 4|Acton Burn. 6| + 39|Atch-Lench ham|Worcester|Evesham 4|Alcester 6| + 54|Athan, St.[A] pa|Glamorgan|Cowbridge 4|Cardiff 15| + 12|Athelampton pa|Dorset |Dorchester 7|Bere Regis 7| + 36|Athelington, or Allington pa|Suffolk |Eye 5|Framlingham 8| + 34|Athelney, Isle of |Somerset | | | + 11|Atherington pa|Devon |Torrington 7|Barnstaple 8| + 39|Atherstone[B] m.t. & pa|Warwick |Nuneaton 6|Sheepy 3| + +--+----------------------------+---------+-------------+-------------+ + |Dist.|Popul + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|-ation. + +--+----------------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + 3|Astwick pa|Baldock 3| 40| 97| + 5|Astwood pa|Olney 6| 51| 268| + 24|Aswarby pa|Grantham 12| 110| 113| + 24|Aswardby pa|Horncastle 8| 136| 80| + 33|Atcham pa|Shiffnal 14| 149| 463| + 39|Atch-Lench ham|Pershore 7| 104| 82| + 54|Athan, St.[A] pa|Bridgend 10| 174| 312| + 12|Athelampton pa|Blandford 13| 116| 79| + 36|Athelington, or Allington pa|Debenham 6| 88| 129| + 34|Athelney, Isle of | | | | + 11|Atherington pa|S. Molton 9| 204| 592| + 39|Atherstone[B] m.t. & pa|Tamworth 8| 105| 3870| + +--+----------------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] ST. ATHAN. In this village is a castle, called East Orchard, built +in the year 1691, by Roger Berkrols; it stands on the edge of an +extensive flat: a luxuriant wild fig tree grows out of the cement of the +chapel walls. Perhaps the Turkey fig tree might be propagated with more +success, grafted upon this wildling, which probably originated in the +cultivated fig planted in the gardens of the Norman lords. In St. +Athan's church there are two uncommonly fine gothic monuments of the +Berkrol's family: there are likewise in this parish the remains of two +castles--West Orchard and Castleton; but these are not of such great +antiquity. From this spot there is a good view of Fonmore, or Fronmon +Castle, which is the most extensive and august of the Welch inhabited +castles. The kitchen is said to be the largest in the kingdom. In +Fronmon castle is an excellent portrait of Oliver Cromwell. The flat and +steep-holms are seen from this neighbourhood: the former has its +light-house. It is situated nearly ten miles from the sea lock of the +canal, and three miles from the adjacent steep-holms, which is a smaller +island than the former, though more conspicuous from its great height +above the water; it is quite barren and uninhabited. The flat holms at +low tide is an extensive sheet of mud, excepting one deep channel. The +landing place is near the castle rock, a dangerous, but romantic beach, +so called from its similarity to a castle, it is very large, and is said +to resemble Abergavenny castle. In the centre is a bold arch, which at +high water is covered. The hollow sound of the sea roaring through the +arch, and the waves occasionally retreating, and then forcing their way +back with redoubled fury, has an uncommonly fine effect. At low tide the +shore all around the base is dry. The island is four or five miles in +circumference; the soil is good, and would, if well cultivated, be very +productive. From the light-house, which is 80 feet in height, is a +delightful prospect of the Bristol Channel and the shores of Somerset +and Glamorgan. It is the resort of many visitors in the summer season. + +[Sidenote: The largest inhabited castle in Wales.] + +[Sidenote: Account of the dangerous beach.] + + +[B] ATHERSTONE. This market town is supposed to have derived its name +from "a stone" under which an "adder" of enormous size was found; it is +situated on the Watling Street, and divided from Leicestershire by the +river Anker, and was a place of some importance at the Conquest: at +which time the town was given to the monks of Bee in Normandy, who +obtained for it a market day and an annual fair, which brought it into +consequence. A monastery of friars, (Hermits of Saint Augustine,) was +founded at Atherstone in the year 1375. The church belonging to the +friary was completed in the reign of Richard II. A free grammar school +was founded here by Sir William Devereux and two other benevolent +persons in the year 1573. The chancel of the friary church was +appropriated to the use of this seminary, and is still dedicated to the +same purpose. The mansion, or hall house was sometime after separated +from the chapel, and rebuilt at a short distance upon a pleasant bank, +commanding an extensive view over the adjacent counties of Leicester, +Derby, and Stafford. Two nights before the battle of Bosworth Field +(which is but nine miles distant), the Duke of Richmond lay at +Atherstone, where he had his interview with the two Stanley's, in which +such measures of co-operation were concerted as occasioned the overthrow +of King Richard III., and it is said, that many persons from the +subsequent battle were buried below this old mansion, from which the +spot has retained the name of the bloody bank. It appears, however, to +have been so called from being the place where contests of less serious +results were usually decided by the young champions of the ancient +foundation school, which is still supported by a respectable endowment. +Atherstone Hall has recently been much improved by extended buildings +and ornamental plantations. It is situated near Merevale Hall, the seat +of D.S. Dugdale, Esq., and Grendon Hall, that of Sir G. Chetwynd, Bart. +Here are manufactories of hats, ribbons, and shalloons, and considerable +business is done at the four annual fairs; that in September being the +most considerable in England for the sale of cheese. The passage of the +Coventry canal, uniting with that of the Trent and Mersey, within a +hundred yards of the town, adds very considerably to its facilities of +trading. The poet Drayton, author of the "Polyolbion," was a native of +Atherstone. + + _Market_, Tuesday.--_Fairs_, April 7, for horses, cows, and sheep; + July 18, holyday; September 19, for horses, cows, and cheese; + December 4, for horses and fat cattle.--_Mail_ arrives 8.41 A.M.; + departs 5.36 P.M.--_Inns_, Red Lion, and Three Tuns.--_Bankers_, W. + and J.H. Chapman; draw upon Spooner and Co. + +[Sidenote: Some foreign monks obtained this market.] + +[Sidenote: Atherstone Hall.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From + +--+------------------------+----------+-------------+------------+ + 39|Atherstone-upon-Stour pa|Warwick |Stratford 3|Shipston 9| + 22|Atherton, or } |Lancaster |Newton 7|Bolton 5| + |Chowbents to & chap } | | | | + 10|Atlow chap|Derby |Ashbourn 4|Wirksworth 6| + 51|Atpar m.t.|Cardigan |Newcastle 1|Cardigan 10| + 30|Attenborough[A] pa|Nottingham|Nottingham 6|Derby 10| + 24|Atterly to|Lincoln |Mar. Rising 9|Brigg 10| + 45|Attercliffe to|W.R. York |Sheffield 2|Rotherham 4| + 23|Atterton ham|Leicester |Atherstone 3|Hinckley 6| + 31|Attington ex. p. ham|Oxford |Tetsworth 1|Thame 3| + 27|Attleborough[B] m.t. & p|Norfolk |Norwich 15|Buckenham 4| + +--+------------------------+----------+-------------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+------------------------+------------------------+-----+------+ + 39|Atherstone-upon-Stour pa|Campden 9| 92| 87| + 22|Atherton, or } |Wigan 7| 198| 4181| + |Chowbents to & chap } | | | | + 10|Atlow chap|Derby 13| 139| 517| + 51|Atpar m.t.|Carmarthen 21| 230| | + 30|Attenborough[A] pa|Loughboro' 10| 119| 1094| + 24|Atterly to|Gainsboro' 12| 148| 110| + 45|Attercliffe to|Barnsley 13| 162| 3741| + 23|Atterton ham|Nuneaton 5| 105| 76| + 31|Attington ex. p. ham|Watlington 6| 42| 7| + 27|Attleborough[B] m.t. & p|Watton 10| 94| 1939| + +--+------------------------+------------------------+-----+------+ + + +[A] ATTENBOROUGH. This village, supposed to be the ancient Attenton, +lies nearly on the banks of the river Trent. Its church is large, and +also well filled: it serves for Chilwell, Toueton, and part of Bramcote. +This place is remarkable, for having given birth to Henry Ireton, the +regicide, son-in-law of Oliver Cromwell. He was the eldest son of +Gervase Ireton, Esq., and brother to Sir John Ireton, Lord Mayor of +London in 1658. He was a gentleman commoner of Trinity College, Oxford, +in 1629, and at the age of 19 he took one degree in Arts. Wood tells us, +that he had the character in that college of a stubborn and saucy fellow +towards the seniors. Afterwards he went to the Middle Temple, where he +became grounded in the common law. When the rebellion broke out he took +up arms against the king, was a recruiter in the long parliament, and +about that time married Bridget, one of the daughters of Cromwell, then +only colonel of a regiment. He became first a captain, afterwards +colonel, and at length commissary-general, in 1645. He is said to have +been the best prayer-maker and preacher in the whole army. He drew up +the famous remonstrance requiring justice to be done on their sovereign. +He sat as judge on the king's trial, and was one of the committee that +appointed the time and place of execution. In Cromwell's expedition to +Ireland, he was appointed second in command, with the rank of +major-general, and was afterwards made president of Munster; being left +as deputy by Cromwell, in 1649, he died the next year of a sudden +disorder at Limerick. On his death, the parliament settled a pension of +L2000. per annum on his widow and children, out of the estates of the +Duke of Buckingham. + +[Sidenote: Birth-place of the regicide, son-in-law of Oliver Cromwell.] + + +[B] ATTLEBOROUGH, or ATTLEBURGH. This small market town was formerly a +place of considerable consequence. During the Saxon era it was a post of +strength and served as a check to the Danes in their predatory +incursions. Its fortifications are said to have been conspicuous in the +time of Henry II. Attleborough formerly belonged to the Mortimers; from +them it passed to the Ratcliffe family, of whom it was purchased by Sir +Francis Blickley, Bart., whence it came into possession of the family of +Ash. A college, dedicated to the Holy Cross, was founded here in the +reign of Richard II., by Sir Robert de Mortimer, for a custos and four +fellows. The church, with the east end is entire; it is in the +collegiate form, and consists of a large nave with aisles and a north +and south transept; it contains the monuments of many persons of +distinction. On a flat stone in the nave is an inscription to the memory +of Captain John Gibbs, a celebrated horse racer and gamester, in the +reign of Charles I. This person having laid a wager that he would drive +his carriage and four horses up and down the steepest place of the +Devil's Ditch, on Newmarket Heath, succeeded in winning the bet, by +making a very light chaise, with a jointed perch, and without any pole. +It is worthy of remark, that the first turnpike road in the kingdom, was +made at Attleborough, by an Act passed for that purpose in 1707. + + _Market_, Thursday.--_Fairs_, Thursday before Easter; Thursday after + Holy Trinity; August 15, for cattle and Toys.--_Mail_ arrives 7.27 + A.M.; departs 6.38 P.M. + +[Sidenote: Anecdote of Captain J. Gibbs.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County.| Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------------+--------+--------------+--------------+ + 39|Attleborough ham|Warwick |Nuneaton 1|Coventry 9| + 27|Attlebridge pa|Norfolk |Reepham 5|Aylesham 8| + 46|Atwicke to & pa|E.R.York|Hornsea 2|Bridlington 12| + 24|Auborn to & pa|Lincoln |Lincoln 8|Newark 10| + 13|Auckland, St.} | | | | + | Andrew[A]} to & pa|Durham |Bp. Auckland 1|Darlington 11| + 13|Auckland, St. Helen ch|Durham | ... 3| ... 10| + 13|Auckland, West to|Durham | ... 3| ... 10| + 14|Audley End[B] ham|Essex |Saff. Walden 1|Newport 2| + 7|Audlem to & pa|Chester |Nantwich 6|Whitchurch 9| + +--+----------------------+--------+--------------+--------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------------+-----------------------+--------------+ + 39|Attleborough ham|Hinckley 5| 100| | + 27|Attlebridge pa|Norwich 9| 112| 117| + 46|Atwicke to & pa|Beverley 13| 189| 285| + 24|Auborn to & pa|Navenby 6| 127| 356| + 13|Auckland, St.} | | | | + | Andrew[A]} to & pa|Durham 11| 248| 11137| + 13|Auckland, St. Helen ch| ... 13| 246| 410| + 13|Auckland, West to| ... 13| 246| 1106| + 14|Audley End[B] ham|Chesterford 4| 42| | + 7|Audlem to & pa|Woore 5| 163| 2978| + +--+----------------------+-----------------------+----+---------+ + + +[A] ST. ANDREWS, AUCKLAND. This place is celebrated for the church +having been made collegiate by Bishop Beck, although it is probable +there was some foundation here before the time of that prelate. The +edifice is situated on a rising ground, in a valley near the banks of +the river Gaunless, and has the form of a cross with a tower at the west +end. In the inside is a curious wooden figure, said to be an effigy of +one of the family of Polland, which represents a knight sitting +cross-legged and dressed in a coat of mail, with his hands raised and +his feet resting on a lion. + +[Sidenote: Curious effigy.] + + +[B] AUDLEY END is principally celebrated for its vicinity to Audley +House, which was sold by the third Earl of Suffolk, to Charles II., for +L50,000., the king, however, left a great part of the sum on mortgage. +The present mansion, though a large and magnificent structure, consists +only of a small part of the original building, owing to its curtailment +at various times. When in its perfect state, it was esteemed one of the +most splendid and capacious mansions in the country; and, if not +superior, was nearly equal to the palaces of Hampton Court, Nonsuch, and +Richmond. At the time when it was first built, large, rather than +comfortable or handsome houses were fashionable. Influenced by these +sentiments, Thomas Howard, the first Earl of Suffolk, (as Walpole +observes,) determined to have "an immense pile of building," and +L190,000. was expended upon its erection. It is said that, when the +house was finished, King James was invited to see it. Having surveyed +the structure with great astonishment, the earl asked him "how he liked +it?" "Very well," replied James, "but troth man," continued he +sarcastically, "it is too much for a king, but it may do for a Lord High +Treasurer." An elegant domestic chapel, constructed by the late Lord +Howard, occupies the north west corner of the house. It is fitted up +with clustered columns, pointed arches, and fan like tracery; and, in +imitation of a cathedral, it has a nave, side-aisles and transepts. The +windows are filled with painted glass, by Pickett of York, who executed +them in 1771, from Biaggio Rebecca's designs. + + _Fair_, August 5, for cheese. + +[Sidenote: Anecdote of James I.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------------+----------+------------+--------------+ + 35|Audley to & pa|Stafford |Newcastle 4|Leek 14| + 22|Aughton chap|Lancaster |Lancaster 7|K. Lonsdale 8| + 22|Aughton pa|Lancaster |Ormskirk 2|Liverpool 10| + 46|Aughton[A] to & pa|E.R. York |Howden 7|Selby 7| + 45|Aughton to|W.R. York |Rotherham 5|Sheffield 7| + 24|Aukborough[B] pa|Lincoln |Barton 10|Burton 3| + 30|Aukley to|Nottingham|Bawtry 5|Gainsboro' 13| + 10|Ault-Hucknall pa|Derby |Mansfield 6|Chesterfield 7| + 24|Aunsby pa|Lincoln |Folkingham 6|Sleaford 6| + 15|Aust, or Aust-Clive[C]}| | | | + | ti. & chap}|Gloucester|Thornbury 4|Bristol 11| + +--+-----------------------+----------+------------+--------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+ + 35|Audley to & pa|Congleton 9| 154| 3617| + 22|Aughton chap|Burton 7| 217| 199| + 22|Aughton pa|Prescott 10| 208| 1462| + 46|Aughton[A] to & pa|York 11| 189| 665| + 45|Aughton to|Tickhill 11| 156| | + 24|Aukborough[B] pa|Howden 10| 172| 467| + 30|Aukley to|Doncaster 6| 158| 297| + 10|Ault-Hucknall pa|Bolsover 4| 144| 618| + 24|Aunsby pa|Grantham 9| 112| 117| + 15|Aust, or Aust-Clive[C]}| | | | + | ti. & chap}|Chepstow 5| 123| 203| + +--+-----------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+ + + +[A] AUGHTON. This village is chiefly distinguished for having been the +seat of an ancient and respectable family long since extinct, or +dispersed. The Askes, who succeeded the family of Hai, resided here from +about the year 1365, till the reign of Charles I., when the head of the +family was one of the judges of that unfortunate monarch. Of this +family, also, was Sir Robert Aske, a man of daring and enthusiastic +courage, possessing considerable talents, who headed the insurrection +called "the Pilgrimage of Grace," in the days of Henry VIII. Of the +family seat, nothing remains but the site, marked by several moats. + +[Sidenote: Once the seat of Sir Robert Aske.] + + +[B] AUKBOROUGH. Dr. Stukely having discovered a Roman castrum and a +vicinal road here, supposed it to be the Aquis of Ravennas. The Roman +station is square, each side 300 feet; the entrance is at the north, and +the west side faces the steep cliff that over-hangs the Trent. The +situation of this castle at the north-west angle of Lincolnshire, +renders it a kind of watch tower over Nottingham and Yorkshire, which it +surveys. The camp is now called "Countess Close," and tradition speaks +of a Countess of Warwick having resided here. The vallum and ditch are +nearly entire; a square plat called the "Oreen," is supposed to have +been appropriated for the soldiers when on duty. Within this is a round +walk into a labyrinth, called Julian's Bower; these bowers are usually +found in the neighbourhood of Roman towns, and are objects of great +curiosity to uninformed people. Dr. Stukeley is of opinion that they +were the arena of some of their ancient games, brought into Italy from +Troy, and that they derived their name from "borough," any work +consisting of ramparts of earth, and not from "bower" an arbour. The +views in this neighbourhood are very beautiful; the winding Trent with +its rich level plains of meadow, all alive with herds of cattle; the +cliff, commanding a noble view of the three rivers; the hanging woods +and ornamented walks, all form a great contrast to what Lincolnshire is +often represented by those who have visited only the fenny parts of this +fertile county. + +[Sidenote: Julian's bower.] + + +[C] AUST, or AUST CLIVE. Here is a celebrated ferry over the Severn into +South Wales. The Propraetor, Ostorius Scapula, was accustomed to ferry +his legions over near this place. In the time of Edward the Elder, who +was lying here with his army, Llewellyn, Prince of Wales, was stationed +at Beachley, on the opposite bank. Llewellyn, who was required to pay +homage to the English Sovereign, refused to cross the passage; but +Edward immediately crossing in a boat, was seen, as he approached the +shore by Llewellyn, who, overcome by the condescension, rushed into the +water, and taking the monarch upon his shoulders, carried him to land, +and did him homage for the principality. The Severn is here nearly two +miles across. + +[Sidenote: Celebrated passage into South Wales.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------------+----------+-----------+-------------+ + 8|Austell, or St. }| | | | + | Austle[A] m.t. & pa}|Cornwall |Truro 14|Lostwithiel 9| + 45|Austerfield to & chap|W.R. York |Bawtry 2|Thorne 11| + 7|Austerson to|Chester |Northwich 4|Frodsham 6| + +--+----------------------+----------+-----------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+ + 8|Austell, or St. }| | | | + | Austle[A] m.t. & pa}|Grampound 6| 243| 8758| + 45|Austerfield to & chap|Doncaster 9| 155| 280| + 7|Austerson to|Tarporley 10| 177| 69| + +--+----------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] ST. AUSTELL is a considerable market town, which belongs to the +north-eastern division of the county, and is one of the polling places. +The petty sessions of the hundred of Powder are held here. Considerable +quantities of corn and other articles are brought to the market. The +town is seated on the eastern side of a hill which slopes gradually to a +rivulet which runs along a narrow valley; this stream, and the +inequality of the ground, have been rendered eminently useful to the +manufactories of the neighbourhood. The water which has been conducted +round the side of the hills, in its course impels the machinery of +several stamping-mills, which have been erected on different levels. It +is also employed to cleanse and separate the tin from the pounded mass. +Through its vicinity to the great tin mine of Polgooth, St. Austell has +within the last sixty or seventy years, considerably increased in the +number of its houses and inhabitants. The holding of the Blackmore Court +here, which is the most considerable of the stannary courts, or courts +relating to the tin works, have also contributed to augment its +prosperity. The old town, or rather village, was at some little distance +to the east, and its site is still marked by a few cottages; the present +town is the regular thoroughfare for travellers from Plymouth to +Falmouth; the streets are very narrow, and not having any pavement for +foot passengers are somewhat unsafe. The only blowing houses in the +county are at the east end of this town; they are three in number, and +very spacious; the old smelting houses are supplied with coals, and are +reverberatory; but in these blowing houses the fire is of charcoal, and +ignited by air impelled through tubes by cylinders instead of bellows; +this mode of fluxing the ore is considered by the workmen far preferable +to the other. The inhabitants of this town, from its proximity to the +sea, are principally employed in the pilchard fishery and in mining; +there is however a small manufactory of serges. The parish church is a +fine old fabric, consisting of three aisles; the tower and some other +parts of the structure are fancifully ornamented; various carvings, +monstrous heads, angels, and other figures appear on the cornices. From +the repetition of the shovel, pick, hammers, and other tools, it seems +probable that the miners were the principle contributors towards the +expences of the building. In the year 1774, as some tinners were +searching for tin in a stream work near the town, about seventeen feet +under the surface of the ground, they discovered a silver cup, which is +now used for wine at the Communion table, in which were several ancient +pieces of gold and silver ornaments; they consisted of bracelets, rings, +and buckles, evidently for a person of high rank, with many of the most +curious Saxon coins ever discovered at one time. All these articles fell +out on moving the ground, and some were probably lost in shovelling out +the rubbish; those which were picked up were dispersed about the +country, and many of them broken. The celebrated Pentuan stone quarry, +from which the materials of many churches and family seats have been +taken, is in this parish. Polgooth mine (before mentioned) was +considered the richest ever worked in England, and is situated about two +miles south-west of the town. The surrounding country appears for many +miles bleak, desolate, and barren, yet its bowels contain vast +treasures; though, as a talented author has observed, "like the shabby +mien of a miser, its aspect does not correspond with its hoards." The +shafts by which the miners descend, and through which the ore is raised +to the surface, are scattered over a considerable extent of sterile +ground, whose dreary appearance, and the sallow countenances of the +miners, concur to excite ideas of gloom, apprehension, and melancholy. +The number of shafts is not less than fifty, from twenty to thirty of +which are constantly in use. When a stranger is induced to descend, he +is previously accoutred in a flannel shirt and trowsers, a close cap, an +old hat to shelter his face from droppings, and a thick pair of shoes. A +lighted candle is put into one hand, and a spare one suspended to a +button of his jacket. Every part of the ordinary clothing is laid aside, +and the flannel dress worn close to the skin, in order to absorb the +profuse perspiration which the closeness of the mine or the labour of +mounting the ladders may occasion. + + _Market_, Friday.--_Fairs_, Whit Thursday, and Nov. 30, for oxen, + sheep, and cloth.--_Mail_ arrives 12.35 afternoon; departs 10.27. + morning. + +[Sidenote: Blackmore Court held here.] + +[Sidenote: Silver cup found 17 ft. under ground.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------------+----------+--------------+-------------+ + 45|Austhorpe[A] to|W.R. York |Leeds 4|Wetherby 10| + 9|Austhwaite ham|Cumberland|Ravenglass 11|Ulverston 10| + 45|Austonley to|W.R. York |Huddersfield 8|Barnsley 9| + 39|Austrey pa|Warwick |Tamworth 6|Atherstone 7| + 45|Austwick to|W.R. York |Settle 5|Ingleton 9| + 24|Authorpe pa|Lincoln |Alford 4|Louth 7| + 41|Avebury, or Abury[B] pa|Wilts |Marlborough 7|Swindon 11| + 14|Aveley pa|Essex |Purfleet 2|G. Thurrock 4| + 17|Avenbury pa|Hereford |Bromyard 2|Ledbury 13| + 15|Avening pa|Gloucester|Tetbury 4|M. Hampton 5| + 30|Averham[C] pa|Nottingham|Newark 3|Southwell 5| + 11|Aveton-Gifford pa|Devon |Modbury 3|Dartmouth 13| + +--+-----------------------+----------+--------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------------+-------------------------+-------------+ + 45|Austhorpe[A] to|Abberford 5| 189| 150| + 9|Austhwaite ham|Bootle 7| 283| 101| + 45|Austonley to|Wakefield 11| 181| 1420| + 39|Austrey pa|Orton 2| 112| 540| + 45|Austwick to|Hawes 20| 241| 614| + 24|Authorpe pa|Horncastle 13| 144| 121| + 41|Avebury, or Abury[B] pa|Calne 6| 82| 747| + 14|Aveley pa|Wennington 4| 21| 758| + 17|Avenbury pa|Hereford 15| 125| 314| + 15|Avening pa|Horseley 3| 99| 2396| + 30|Averham[C] pa|Tuxford 13| 127| 182| + 11|Aveton-Gifford pa|Kingsbridge 5| 208| 939| + +--+-----------------------+-------------------------+-------------+ + + +[A] AUSTHORPE. This township gave birth to the celebrated civil engineer +John Smeaton, distinguished as the architect of Eddystone Light-house, +and, as the conductor of various other important undertakings. He was +the son of an attorney, who, observing that he had a strong taste for +mechanics, wisely allowed him to follow the impulse of his genius, and +become a mathematical instrument maker. He commenced business in that +capacity, in Holborn, London, in 1750. His great undertaking--the +erection of the light-house on the Eddystone rock, was accomplished in +the year 1759, and it was executed in such a manner as almost to bid +defiance to the power of time or accident. His death took place in his +native village, September 8, 1792.--See Eddystone Light-house. + +[Sidenote: Birth-place of Smeaton the architect.] + + +[B] AVEBURY or ABURY, is situated within the very area of a British +temple, and claims the particular attention of the topographer and +antiquary. The enclosure, which is formed by a wide and deep ditch, and +a lofty external vallum, contains many large stones, some of which are +erect, and the others lying on the ground. Southward of this place, at +some distance, are other large stones, erect or prostrate; and, +westward, are two others, erect. Several walls and houses of the village +are constructed with broken masses of these ponderous monuments; yet +enough remains to excite curiosity and prompt research. The following is +a description of this great temple, in its original state:--Immediately +within the ditch, and encompassing the whole area, was a continued +series of large upright stones, consisting of one hundred in number; +these stones were placed at the distance of twenty-seven feet from each +other, and usually measured from fifteen to seventeen feet in height, +and about forty feet in circumference. Within the area of this circle, +the diameter of which was about 1400 feet, were two double circles; the +exterior circles were about 466 feet in diameter, and formed by thirty +stones of similar dimensions equally distant from each other, as in the +large enclosing circle. Of these singular stones there are but few +remaining; but from the extraordinary dimension of these relics of +antiquity, the traveller may judge for himself the correctness of our +notice. + + _Mail_ arrives at Beckhampton Inn, (1 mile distant,) at 5.20 morning; + departs 9.45 night. + +[Sidenote: A British temple formed of enormous stones.] + + +[C] AVERHAM. This place is principally remarkable for a monument +contained in the church erected to the memory of Sir William Sutton, +once lord of the manor, on which it is quaintly recorded that he had +sixteen children, and an equal number of each sex; of whom the one half + + "Ushered to heaven their father, and the other + Remained behind him to attend their mother." + + | | | + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+------------------------+----------+-------------+--------------+ + 4|Avington[A] pa|Berks |Hungerford 3|Newbury 6| + 18|Avington[B] pa|Hants |Winchester 5|Alresford 4| + 41|Avon chap|Wilts |Chippenham 3|Malmsbury 9| + 39|Avon Dassett pa|Warwick |Banbury 6|Kineton 6| + 11|Awliscombe pa|Devon |Honiton 2|Ottery St.M. 6| + 16|Awre pa|Gloucester|Blakeney 3|Berkeley 3| + 34|Axbridge[C] bo. m.t. & p|Somerset |Wells 10|Chedder 2| + 41|Axford ti|Wilts |Marlborough 3|Ramsbury 4| + +--+------------------------+----------+-------------+--------------+ + | | |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+------------------------+------------------------+-----+--------+ + 4|Avington[A] pa|Kintbury 2| 62| 191| + 18|Avington[B] pa|Basingstoke 14| 60| 26| + 41|Avon chap|Calne 7| 94| 226| + 39|Avon Dassett pa|Southam 9| 75| | + 11|Awliscombe pa|Collumpton 10| 154| 598| + 16|Awre pa|Newnham 4| 124| 1309| + 34|Axbridge[C] bo. m.t. & p|Bristol 18| 130| 998| + 41|Axford ti|Albourne 5| 73| 450| + +--+------------------------+------------------------+-----+--------+ + + +[A] AVINGTON. Sir Francis Burdett is lord of this manor, and patron of +the rectory. The church, which remains nearly in its original state, +exhibits a curious specimen of Saxon architecture. Within the walls it +measures 75 feet by 14 feet and a half. The nave is separated from the +chancel by an arch richly ornamented by a zig-zag moulding, and a great +variety of grotesque heads springing from two enriched piers; the arch +is formed of the segments of two circles, each having different centres. +In this church there is also a very singular font, of rude workmanship, +surrounded with grotesque figures, executed in bass-relief; that is to +say, sculpture, the figures of which do not stand out from the ground in +their full proportion. + +[Sidenote: Sir Francis Burdett.] + + +[B] AVINGTON, anciently Abyngton, is remarkable for its beautiful park, +the seat of Chandos Grenville, Duke of Buckingham, Lord Lieutenant of +the county of Bucks. The manor was originally a royal demesne, or estate +in lands, and was given by king Edgar to the monastery of St. Swithin at +Winchester, in the year 961; it continued in the possession of that +house until the dissolution of monasteries, when it became the property +of the clerks of Mitcheldever, (a village about five miles distant,) +with whom it remained until the reign of Elizabeth; and then passed to +the Bruges, or Brydges family, afterwards raised to the dukedom of +Chandos. Anna Maria Brudenell, the infamous Countess of Shrewsbury, +married one of this family; her former husband, the Earl of Shrewsbury, +died from a wound received in a duel with the Duke of Buckingham, during +the fighting of which the Countess had the audacity to hold the horse of +her gallant, disguised as a page. Charles the Second was frequently the +guest of this notorious woman at the mansion of Avington, which thus +became the scene of that licentious monarch's pleasures. The mansion, +which is mostly built of brick, has been greatly improved since it came +into the possession of the present proprietor. It is situated in a well +planted and secluded valley, nearly environed with high downs, which +from their bare and open state, form a singular though not unpleasing +contrast with the scenery immediately contiguous to the house. Several +of the apartments are fitted up with great elegance, and enriched by a +choice collection of valuable paintings. + +[Sidenote: Seat of the Duke of Buckingham.] + +[Sidenote: A seat of one of the paramours of Charles II.] + + +[C] AXBRIDGE. This town is one of the polling places for the eastern +division of the county of Somerset, but the court for the election of +the Knights of the Shire is at Wells. The borough sent members to +parliament during the reigns of the three first Edwards, but was +afterwards excused on the plea of poverty. It consists chiefly of one +street, winding from east to west, about half a mile in length. The +shambles and market are towards the east end. Although so small, it is +governed by a corporation, consisting of a mayor, bailiff, and ten +aldermen, and twenty-two burgesses, with a recorder, town-clerk, and +other officers. Knit hose are manufactured in this town. The church, +occupying an eminence, near the market-house, is a large and handsome +gothic structure, in the form of a cross. The cloth of the communion +table is elegantly wrought in silk, by Mrs. Abigail, who employed seven +years in completing it. This lady, and several of her family, have +monuments in the church. + + _Market_, Saturday.--_Fairs_, Feb 23, and March 25, for cattle, + sheep, cheese, and toys.--_Mail_ arrives 2.0 afternoon; departs 11.0 + morning. + +[Sidenote: A borough excused on a plea of poverty.] + + Map|Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------+----------+---------------+------------+ + 11|Axminster[A] m.t.|Devon |Bridport 12|Honiton 10| + 11|Axmouth pa|Devon |Colyton 3|Sidmouth 9| + 13|Aycliffe-Great} |Durham |Darlington 5|Sedgfield 7| + | to & p} | | | | + 29|Aydon to|Northumb |Hexham 6|Corbridge 2| + 29|Aydon-Castle to|Northumb | 6| 2| + 15|Aylburton chap|Gloucester|Blakeney 5|Coleford 7| + 11|Aylesbear to& pa|Devon |Ottery, St.M. 5|Exeter 10| + 5|Aylesbury[B] bo.}|Bucks |Tring 7|Winslow 11| + | m.t. & pa}| | | | + +--+-----------------+----------+---------------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------+--------------------------+-----+------+ + 11|Axminster[A] m.t.|Lyme Regis 6| 147| 2719| + 11|Axmouth pa| " " 6| 153| 646| + 13|Aycliffe-Great} |Durham 13| 246| 1564| + | to & p} | | | | + 29|Aydon to|Newcastle 15| 277| 99| + 29|Aydon-Castle to| 15| 277| 29| + 15|Aylburton chap|Chepstow 8| 120| 388| + 11|Aylesbear to & pa|Sidmouth 8| 166| 1025| + 5|Aylesbury[B] bo.}|Wendover 5| 38| 4907| + | m.t. & pa}| | | | + +--+-----------------+--------------------------+-----+------+ + + +[A] AXMINSTER is very irregularly built, and the houses are inelegant, +but the air of the town is reckoned highly salubrious. The petty +sessions of the hundred of Axminster are held here. The lower orders are +mostly employed in manufacturing carpets, leather breeches, gloves, &c. +The manner of weaving carpets here is different from that pursued at +most other places; the carpets being woven in the piece, and several +hands employed at the same loom. The common patterns are flowers, roses, +&c., though the Turkey and Persian carpets have been imitated with +success. In many large pieces Roman tesselated pavements have been +copied, which have produced a very rich effect. The tunnel between +Charmouth and was opened in the month of January, 1832. This improvement +is substantially constructed with an elliptic arch, capable of allowing +two stage waggons of the largest size to pass on it, and is rather more +than seventy yards in length. By the completion of this tunnel the +longest and steepest hill between London and Exeter is avoided. A +gentleman who visited the tunnel during the height of the ensuing +summer, remarked the astonishing coolness which he felt within this +hill's enclosed semi-cylinder; no sooner, however, had he left it, than +he fainted from the difference of temperature between this subterraneous +passage and that of the open air. + + _Market_. Saturday--_Fairs_, St. Marks Day; April 30; Wednesday after + June 24; Wednesday after Oct 10.--_Mail_ arrives 1.20 afternoon; + departs 12.51 afternoon. + +[Sidenote: Trade.] + +[Sidenote: A remarkable tunnel through a lofty hill.] + + +[B] AYLESBURY. The AEglesbury of the Saxons, is a considerable market +town, situated near the centre of the county, rising gradually on all +sides in a rich and extensive tract, denominating the "Vale of +Aylesbury." Drayton in his Poly-Albion has the following lines +descriptive of this celebrated vale:-- + + Aylesbury's vale that walloweth in her wealth, + And (by her wholesome air continually in health) + Is lusty, firm, and fat; and holds her youthful strength. + +This was originally a strong British town, which maintained its +independence till the year 571, when it was reduced by the West Saxons. +In the year 600, it became famous as the burial place of St. Osyth, who +was born at Quarrendon, two miles distance, and beheaded in Essex by the +Pagans. Her relics were interred in this church, and are said to have +performed many miracles; a religious house was founded in honour of +William the Conqueror, who parcelled it out under the singular +tenure:--that the tenants should find litter or straw for the king's +bedchamber three times a year, if he came that way so often, and provide +him with three eels in winter, and three green geese in summer. In the +reign of Henry VIII., the manor was sold by Thomas Boleyn, Earl of +Wilts, father of Queen Anne Boleyn, to Sir John Baldwin, whose daughter +took it in marriage to Robert Pakington, who was murdered in the year +1537, on account of his zeal for the reformed religion. It continued in +this family till the year 1801, when it was sold by Sir John Pakington, +Bart., to the Marquis of Buckingham. How completely the manor and the +town itself were in the possession of the Pakington family, will appear +from the following remarkable letter preserved in the Chapel of the +Rolls, among the returns of Parliament writs of the fourteenth of Queen +Elizabeth:--"To all Christian people, to whom this present writing shall +come: I, Dorothy Pakington, late wife of Sir John Pakington, lord and +owner of the town of Aylesbury, send greeting. Know ye me, the said +Dorothy Pakington, to have chosen, named, and appointed my trusty and +well-beloved Thomas Litchfield, and George Burden, Esqrs., to be my +burgesses of my said town of Aylesbury; and whatever the said Thomas and +George, burgesses, shall do in the service of the Queen's Highness in +the Parliament to be holden at Westminster on the 8th of May next +ensuing the date hereof, I the same Dorothy Pakington do ratify and +approve to be of my own act as fully and wholly as if I were witness or +present there. In witness whereof, to these presents, I have set my +seal, this 4th day of May, in the 14th year of the reign of my Sovereign +Lady Elizabeth, by the grace of God, of England, France, and Ireland, +Queen, &c." Aylesbury was made a borough town by a charter of Queen +Mary, in 1554. The Reform Bill has made no alteration in the number of +members. The electors are those of the old constituency, consisting of +freeholders of the hundred, and house-keepers not receiving alms; the +freeholders of the hundred are estimated at 838; and the ten pound +householders at 314; total 1152. The limits of the borough are +unaltered, and the returning officers are the constables of the borough. +The town is also one of the polling places for this county, which now +returns three members. The county gaol is still at Aylesbury, but the +Summer Assizes were restored to Buckingham, through the exertions of +Lord Cobham and the Grenville family in the year 1758. The only +manufacture at Aylesbury is that of lace-making: the weekly market is a +very plentiful one for provision, and much business is done here at the +annual fairs. + + _Market_, Saturday--_Fairs_, Friday after Jan. 18; Saturday before + Palm Sunday; May 8; June 14; September 25; October 12, for cattle. + _Bankers_, Rickford and Son, draw on Praed's and Co--_Mail_ arrives + 12.40 morning; departs 2.19 morning.--_Inns_, George, and White Hart. + +[Sidenote: St. Osyth.] + +[Sidenote: Singular tenure of this manor.] + +[Sidenote: Remarkable Parliamentary writ.] + + Map|Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+------------------+---------+------------+--------------+ + 24|Aylesby pa|Lincoln |G. Grimsby 4|Barton 17| + 21|Aylesford[A] pa|Kent |Maidstone 4|Rochester 5| + 23|Aylestone to & pa|Leicester|Leicester 3|Lutterworth 10| + 27|Aylmerton pa|Norfolk |Cromer 3|Holt 9| + +--+------------------+---------+------------+--------------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+------------------+----------------------+-----+--------+ + 24|Aylesby pa|Caistor 9| 166| 144| + 21|Aylesford[A] pa|Wrotham 8| 32| 1301| + 23|Aylestone to & pa|Hinckley 10| 96| 758| + 27|Aylmerton pa|Aylsham 2| 125| 284| + +--+------------------+----------------------+-----+--------+ + + +[A] AYLESFORD is seated on the banks of the Medway, by which the parish +is divided. The church is so singularly situated, from being placed on a +rising ground, that persons in the churchyard can almost look down the +chimnies of the houses. The neighbourhood is famed as having been the +spot where, we are told by ancient historians, a sanguinary battle was +fought in 445, between the Britons and Saxons; the conflict having taken +place about five years after the first landing of the latter in Britain. +It appears from our chronicles that Vortimer, then monarch of this +island, having first defeated his enemies on the banks of the Darent, in +Kent, pursued their routed forces to Aylesford; at which place the +Saxons had passed to the eastern side of the Medway, where a most +obstinate and bloody battle took place between the contending armies, +when the fate of the day, having long remained undecided, at length +terminated favourably for the Britons. In that decisive affair, Horsa, +brother of Hengist, the Saxon chief, and Catigrinus, brother to King +Vortimer, are said to have contended hand to hand, when both died +bravely upon the spot. Horsa, | if tradition may be credited, was +interred about three miles north of Aylesford, at a spot still bearing +the name of Horsted; that is to say, "the place of Horsa;" where, in the +adjoining fields, large stones are still dispersed over the soil; some +in erect positions, while others, from lapse of time, have been thrown +down; being, there is little doubt, placed there as memorials of the +Saxon warriors slain in that famous encounter. Prince Cartigrinus is +supposed to have been inhumed still nearer the field of slaughter, on +the summit of an acclivity, about one mile north of Aylesford, and a +quarter of a mile west from the high road leading from Rochester to +Maidstone; at which place, Kitt's Cotty House still stands, as +represented in our engraving. This memorial consists of four large +stones, of the pebble kind, two placed in the ground, being partly +upright, forming two sides, a third standing in the middle between them, +while the fourth, being the largest, is laid transversely over them, +thus forming a covering. None of these stones bear the imprint of the +chisel, or any sign whatsoever of manual labour. Alfred and Edmund +Ironside defeated the Danes in this vicinity. Sir Charles Sedley, of +poetical and dissolute notoriety, was a native of this place; as was +also Sir Paul Rycaut, the celebrated eastern traveller. + +[Sidenote: The site of a Saxon battle.] + +[Sidenote: Kitt's Cotty House.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------------+---------+-------------+------------+ + 27|Aylsham[A] m.t. & pa|Norfolk |Norwich 12|Cromer 11| + 17|Aylton pa|Hereford |Ledbury 4|Ross 11| + 17|Aymestery to & pa|Hereford |Leominster 9|Kington 11| + 28|Aynho[B] pa|Northamp |Brackley 6|Banbury 7| + 18|Ayott, St. Lawrence pa|Herts |Welwyn 3|Luton 7| + 18|Ayott, St. Peter pa|Herts | 2|Hatfield 5| + 43|Aysgarth to & pa|N.R. York|Middleham 9|Askrigg 4| + 32|Ayston pa|Rutland |Uppingham 1|Okeham 6| + 43|Ayton East to & pa|N.R. York|Scarborough 4|N. Malton 16| + 43|Ayton West to|N.R. York| 5| 16| + 43|Ayton Great to & pa|N.R. York|Stokesley 4|Guisboro' 5| + 43|Ayton Little to & pa|N.R. York| 4| 5| + 45|Azerley, or Cozenley to|W.R. York|Ripon 5|Masham 5| + +--+-----------------------+---------+-------------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------------+-----------------------+-----+------+ + 27|Aylsham[A] m.t. & pa|Reepham 7| 118| 2334| + 17|Aylton pa|Hereford 11| 124| 126| + 17|Aymestery to & pa|Ludlow 11| 146| 1006| + 28|Aynho[B] pa|Buckingham 11| 63| 664| + 18|Ayott, St. Lawrence pa|St. Albans 7| 28| 134| + 18|Ayott, St. Peter pa| 7| 25| 271| + 43|Aysgarth to & pa|Reeth 7| 241| 5796| + 32|Ayston pa|Rockingham 6| 90| 101| + 43|Ayton East to & pa|Whitby 20| 217| 360| + 43|Ayton West to| 20| 217| 256| + 43|Ayton Great to & pa|Stockton 10| 240| 1105| + 43|Ayton Little to & pa| 10| 240| 68| + 45|Azerley, or Cozenley to|Bedale 11| 217| 579| + +--+-----------------------+-----------------------+-----+------+ + + +[A] AYLSHAM is situated on the southern side of the river Brue, which is +navigable hence to Yarmouth, for barges of about 13 tons burthen. +Aylsham during the reigns of Edward II. and III., was the chief town in +this part of the kingdom for the linen manufacture; but in succeeding +reigns, that business was superseded by the woollen manufacture; and in +the time of James I., the inhabitants were principally employed in +knitting worsted stockings, breeches, and waistcoat pieces. Since the +introduction of frame knitting, that trade has also been lost; the town +is governed by a bailiff. Aylsham church is said to have been erected by +John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster, the court of which duchy was at one +period held here. There is a spa in the neighbourhood, the water of +which has obtained considerable reputation for its medicinal properties +in chronic disorders. + + _Market_, Tuesday.--_Fairs_, March 23; last Tuesday in September for + lean cattle, ordinary horses, and pedlary; and October 6, for + cattle.--_Mail_ arrives 12.30 afternoon; departs 2.0 + afternoon.--_Bankers_, Copeman and Co., draw upon Hankey and Co. + +[Sidenote: Trade.] + + +[B] AYNHO is a large and respectable village seated on a rock, below +which issues a powerful spring of water, called the Town Well, which +after running through the vale below, contributes to the supply of the +Charwell. The church contains numerous monuments, several of which +belong to the Cartwright family, who have long been in possession of the +manor, and whose descendant R.W. Cartwright, Esq., has a handsome seat, +the interior of which is adorned with a fine collection of paintings. An +hospital was founded here for poor and sick travellers. The building is +still standing, but is now occupied as a private house. + +[Sidenote: Town Well.] + + + RIVERS. + +-----------------+----------------+------------------------+ + Name. | Rises. | Falls. + +-----------------+----------------+------------------------+ + Aire[A] | Yorkshire | Ouse. + Alan | Cornwall | St. George's Channel. + Ald | Suffolk | Sea near Aldborough. + Alder | Sussex | Sea at Shoreham + Allen | Dorsetshire | Stour + Allen | Flintshire | + Allow, East | Durham | Tyne. + Allow, West | Northum | Tyne. + Allow, West | Anglesea | Irish Sea + Alne[B] | Northumb | Tyne. + Alt | Lancashire | Irish Sea + Amond | Caermar | Lougher + Ancholme[C] | Lincolnshire | Humber. + Ande | Hants | + Angel | Montgom | Dovey. + Ankham | Lincolnshire | Humber. + Anker | Leicestersh | Tame. + Annisor | Pembrokesh | Irish Sea + Arrow | Herefordsh | Lug + Arrow | Worcestersh | Avon. + Arth | Cardigansh | Irish Sea. + Artro | Merionethsh | Landeber. + Arun | Sussex | Sea. + Astery | Sussex | Sea. + Atree | Cornwall | Tamer. + Aune | Devonshire | Sea. + Avon Upper[D] | Northamp | Severn. + Avon Lower[E] | Wiltshire | English Channel. + Avon | Glamorgansh | Severn. + Avon, West | Goucestersh | Severn. + Avon | Monmouthsh | Uske. + Avon | Merionethsh | Irish Sea. + Axe | Dorsetshire | British Channel. + Axe | Somersetsh | Severn. + Ayron | Cardigansh | Irish Sea. + +-----------------+----------------+------------------------+ + + +[A] AIRE, (The) rises from a small lake on the moors of Yorkshire, +north-east from Settle, descending through Aire-dale and Craven in its +course to the south-east, which it pursues as far as Leeds, where, +turning eastward, and meeting the Calder, it passes under Ferrybridge, +flowing through the flattest portion of Yorkshire; and receiving the +Don, a little north of Snaith, it unites with the Ouse above Booth +Ferry, near Howden. This river is of greater extent than the Calder, and +much its superior in navigation, being also joined by numerous canals +from the west. Its origin is almost mountainous, in the midst of the +wildest moors; and Aire-dale retains much of the same characteristic +features of that line of country. The district of Craven is singularly +romantic, being a rich vale, bounded by high hills, with the town of +Skipton in its centre; below which it forms a beautiful valley to +Keighley, full of trade and population; the Aire passes the picturesque +ruin of Kirkstall Abbey, in its way to Leeds, the manufactories and +villas of which flourishing place, and its vicinity, encompass its +banks; after which it divides one of the richest plains in the kingdom +to Ferrybridge, not far from the eminence where the town of Pontefract +appears a conspicuous object, with its ruined castle and ancient church. +Afterwards the Aire can boast little of beauty, as it advances through a +level district to join the Ouse. + +[Sidenote: Booth Ferry.] + +[Sidenote: Kirkstall Abbey.] + + +[B] ALNE, (The) is a small river which rises on the border of +Roxburgshire, but within the limits of Northumberland, and a little +north of the source of the Coquet. The great and attractive objects +which grace its borders are placed in the far-extended territory of the +Duke of Northumberland, at the entrance to which the lofty building, +called Brisley Tower, thickly environed by plantations, overlooks all +the wild country of Northumberland, including the bold range of +Cheviot-hills on the north-west, close to the Scottish border. The Alne +then enters a charming valley, beneath the ivied walls of Hulne Abbey, +winding delightfully between lawns, woods, and groupes of trees and +cottages, admirably disposed. From these monastic and rustic recesses, +the river emerges into a spacious park, widened considerably by art, and +gliding through the arches of a fine Castellan bridge, is proudly +overlooked by the numerous towers, and lofty citadel of Alnwick Castle, +the superb seat of the Northumberland family. + +[Sidenote: Brisley Tower.] + +[Sidenote: Alnwick Castle.] + + +[C] ANCHOLME. This small river, rising in the wolds of Lincolnshire, not +far from Market Raisin, is navigable from Glandford Bridge to the +Humber, and in its course intersecting the extensive tract of the Wolds, +which stretches out from Lincoln northward to Barton, and forms a ridge +across some intermediate valleys, terminates in the fens near Spilsby +Louth. Brocklesby Park, in the extensive domains of Lord Yarborough, +occupies the centre of this district, on the highest point of which his +lordship has built a superb chapel and mausoleum, in a very excellent +Grecian taste, adorned with appropriate statues and marbles, from Italy. +This building, from its position, commands the whole surrounding +country, with the port of Hull, across the Humber; forming also a +sea-mark, and an interesting object, admirable for the elegance of its +design and execution. Thornton College is a curious remnant of antiquity +in this neighbourhood, founded in the reign of King Stephen; great part +of which is yet preserved, with some modern additions. + + +[D] AVON, (The Upper) rising in Northamptonshire, on the borders of +Leicestershire, adds great beauty to the delightful territory of Warwick +Castle, as it flows beneath the cliff on which those lofty towers +projecting before the town and church are situated. It then glides +through a charming country to Stratford-on-Avon, celebrated as the +birth-place of Shakspeare, and where the remains of the immortal bard +are deposited. From thence it traverses the great level of +Worcestershire by Evesham, having received the lesser Stour at +Stratford, and turning to the South at Pershore, meets the Severn at the +flourishing town of Tewksbury. + +[Sidenote: Warwick Castle.] + + +[E] AVON (The Lower) rises in the hilly district of North Wiltshire, +bordering on Gloucestershire, not far from Wootton Basset; its source is +near that of the great river Thames, and both are said to have their +origin from various springs, not accurately defined. Emerging from the +hills, it makes a compass to fall into the vale leading from Christian +Malford to Chippenham, advancing through the cloathing district of +Wiltshire, bordering upon that of Somersetshire, and for a considerable +extent divides those counties. Its course is at first southward, making +a long compass by the west towards the north, and then to the west; at +last, encircling the city of Bath on two sides, from whence it pursues +nearly the same direction, with frequent meanders to Bristol. It then +inclines to the north-west, as it conveys the abundant trade of that +opulent city to the Severn, by its conflux constituting the Bristol +Channel at King's-road. + +[Sidenote: Bath.] + + + + +B. + + Map|Names of Places.| County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------+---------+-------------+------------+ + 34|Babcary pa|Somerset |Somerton 4|Ilchester 5| + 27|Babingley,[A] pa|Norfolk |Cas. Rising 2|Lynn 6| + | or Baburghley | | | | + 34|Babington pa|Somerset |Frome 5|Bath 10| + 6|Babraham[B] pa|Cambridge|Linton 4|Cambridge 5| + +--+----------------+---------+-------------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places.| Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------+-----------------------+-----+------+ + 34|Babcary pa|Castle-Cary 7| 120| 453| + 27|Babingley,[A] pa|Heacham 8| 102| 38| + | or Baburghley | | | | + 34|Babington pa|Shepton Mal. 9| 109| 206| + 6|Babraham[B] pa|Newmarket 12| 51| 273| + +--+----------------+-----------------------+-----+------+ + + +[A] BABINGLEY. In this parish, the first Christian church in East Anglia +is said to have been built. Several hills in the vicinity, called +Christian Hills, render the opinion highly probable. The village is +situated near that part of the Lincolnshire wash called Lynn Deeps. + + +[B] BABRAHAM, anciently Badburham, is situated in the hundred of +Chilford. This place, which was one of the manors of Algar, Earl of +Mercia, at the time of the Norman survey, formerly had a market on +Mondays. About the year 1576, the whole manorial property in the parish +fell into the possession of Sir Horatio Palavicini, a Genoese. According +to the tradition of the neighbourhood, this gentleman was collector of +the Pope's taxes in England, in the reign of Queen Mary, on whose death, +and the consequent change in religion under Elizabeth, he (like the +Vicar of Bray,) changed his faith, converted the Pope's money to his own +use, and settled in this country. The following whimsical epitaph +relates to this occurrence: it is printed in "Lord Orford's Anecdotes of +Painting"-- + + "Here lyes Horatio Palavazine, + Who robbed the Pope to lend the Queen. + He was a thief--a thief? Thou lyest: + For what! he robb'd but Antichrist, + Him death with besome swept from Bab'ram. + Into the bosom of ould Abraham: + But then came Hercules with his club, + And struck him down to Belzebub." + +Sir Horatio was in great favour with Queen Elizabeth. He was +naturalised, by patent, in 1516, and commanded one of the English +men-of-war in the great battle with the Spanish Armada, in 1588; and he +was employed by the Queen, in her negotiations with the German Princes: +he died at his seat, in this parish, on the 6th of July, 1600. It +appears by the register kept in the church, that his children were +baptized and buried here: it is also recorded, that the marriage of Sir +Horatio's widow with Sir Oliver Cromwell, the Protector's uncle, took +place exactly a year and a day after her husband's decease. The poor of +this parish are partly maintained by a bequest of L97. a year, expended +under certain restrictions imposed by the donor. Here is an alms-house, +and a free school, founded by Levinus Bush, Esq., and his sister, Mrs. +Judith Bennet; and the yearly sum of L25. is appropriated to the +apprenticing of children. + +[Sidenote: Singular anecdote of the Pope's Tax-gatherer.] + +[Sidenote: The Queen's favorite.] + + Map|Names of Places.| County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------+----------+--------------+-------------+ + 30|Babworth[A] pa|Nottingham|East Retford 1|Blyth 6| + 56|Bacheldre, or |Montgomery|Bis. Castle 4|Montgomery 5| + | Bacheldref to| | | | + 10|Bachymbyd to|Denbigh |Ruthin 3|Denbigh 6| + 49|Bach-Yrys, or |Caermarth |Llanelly 4|Lougher 4| + | Machunis Isle| | | | + 7|Backford to & pa|Chester |Chester 3|Park Gate 12| + 34|Backwell, or |Somerset |Bristol 7|Pensford 8| + 34| Bachwell pa| | | | + 29|Backworth, or |Northumb |N. Shields 6|Newcastle 7| + | Blackworth to| | | | + 27|Baconsthorpe to|Norfolk |Holt 4|Cromer 7| + 22|Bacop chap|Lancaster |Rochdale 7|Haslingden 6| + 17|Bacton pa|Hereford |Hereford 12|Llanthony A 6| + 27|Bacton pa|Norfolk |N. Walsham 5|Cromer 10| + 36|Bacton pa|Suffolk |Stourmarket 6|Botesdale 7| + +--+----------------+----------+--------------+-------------+ + + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places.| Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------+-------------------------+-----+-------+ + 30|Babworth[A] pa|Worksop 7| 146| 449| + 56|Bacheldre, or |Welshpool 12| 163| ...| + | Bacheldref to| | | | + 10|Bachymbyd to|Mold 11| 202| ...| + 49|Bach-Yrys, or |Pont ar 7| 223| ...| + | Machunis Isle|Dulas | | | + 7|Backford to & pa|Liverpool 16| 186| 487| + 34|Backwell, or |Axbridge 12| 125| 1038| + 34| Bachwell pa| | | | + 29|Backworth, or |Blyth 7| 281| 243| + | Blackworth to| | | | + 27|Baconsthorpe to|Aylsham 8| 121| 333| + 22|Bacop chap|Burnley 6| 205| ...| + 17|Bacton pa|Hay 14| 139| 178| + 27|Bacton pa|Worsted 7| 128| 498| + 36|Bacton pa|Ixworth 9| 76| 758| + +--+----------------+-------------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BABWORTH. The hall is the seat of the Hon. J.B. Simpson; it a plain +white-fronted edifice, the surrounding grounds which are very beautiful, +were laid out by the celebrated Repton. Babworth church is a neat gothic +building, with a small steeple; it is worthy of remark, that there are +two trees growing out of the roof of the south porch. Near this village +the ground begins to rise, and displays the most enchanting scenery of +woods, lawns, glades, heaths, cultivated farms, and ornamental seats. +The late Paul Sandby, Esq., R.A., who died on the 8th of November, 1809, +was descended from a branch of the Sandby family, of Babworth, and was +born at Nottingham, in 1732. In 1746 he went to London, and having an +early bias towards the arts, he got introduced into the drawing room of +the Tower. After two years he was appointed draughtsman, under the +inspection of Mr. David Watson, who was employed by the late Duke of +Cumberland to take a survey of the Highlands. During this excursion he +made several sketches from the terrific scenery of that romantic +country, from which he afterwards made a number of small etchings, which +were published in a folio volume. From this circumstance, perhaps, we +may account for the bold and striking style by which the paintings of +this excellent artist are so peculiarly distinguished. In 1752, he +quitted this employment and resided with his brother at Windsor. Several +of the most beautiful views in the neighbourhood of Windsor and Eton, +now became the subject of his pencil; here also he obtained that skill +in depicting gothic architecture which gave so beautiful an effect to +those landscapes that Sir Joseph Banks purchased them all at a very +liberal price. Mr. Sandby published several prints in ridicule of the +inimitable Hogarth's "Analysis of Beauty," but he afterwards declared, +that had he known the merits of that exquisite painter at the time, he +should not have dared to depreciate them. On the institution of "the +Royal Academy," he was elected one of the Academicians. He was +afterwards appointed chief drawing master of the Royal Academy at +Woolwich, and held the office with honour and credit to the day of his +death. + +[Sidenote: Trees grow out of the roof of the church.] + +[Sidenote: Paul Sandby, Esq.] + +[Sidenote: Sandby the painter.] + + Map|Names of Places. | County.| Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------------+--------+------------+-----------+ + 28|Badby[A] pa|Northamp|Daventry 3|Banbury 14| + 39|Baddesley-Clinton pa|Warwick |Warwick 7|Solihull 6| + 39|Baddesley-Ensor pa|Warwick |Atherstone 3|Tamworth 6| + 16|Baddesley-North pa|Hants |Romsey 4|Wincheste 8| + 16|Baddesley-South[B] ham|Hants |Lymington 2|Yarmouth 5| + 7|Baddiley[C] pa|Chester |Nantwich 3|Malpas 9| + 7|Baddington to|Chester | 2|Tarporley 9| + 14|Baddow (Great)[D] pa|Essex |Chelmsford 2|Witham 10| + +--+---------------------+---------+------------+-----------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------------+--------+------------+-----+-----+ + 28|Badby[A] pa|Northamp 13| 75| 583| + 39|Baddesley-Clinton pa|Henley in A. 6| 97| 110| + 39|Baddesley-Ensor pa|Coleshill 9| 108| 568| + 16|Baddesley-North pa|Southampton 7| 70| 297| + 16|Baddesley-South[B] ham|Beaulieu 6| 88| ...| + 7|Baddiley[C] pa|Tarporley 9| 167| 267| + 7|Baddington to|Malpas 11| 166| 132| + 14|Baddow (Great)[D] pa|Maldon 9| 31| 1719| + +--+----------------------+---------------------+-----+-----+ + + +[A] BADBY. This extensive village is situated on the brow of a hill, in +the large uninclosed district of Badby-Down. Here are numerous springs, +and several quarries of flag-stone, which, from its excellence, is very +extensively employed for the purposes of building and paving. On the +summit of Arbury Hill, in this parish, is a large encampment, which is +attributed to the Romans: the ramparts are very steep, and the whole is +encompassed by a very wide and deep foss. + +[Sidenote: Quarries.] + + +[B] BADDESLEY. This village was celebrated a short time ago for a +singular tree it contained, from which was frequently heard to issue +groans as though uttered by a person in acute agony. The tree was an +elm, young, vigorous, and to all appearance perfectly sound; and what is +most wonderful, naturalists could assign no physical reason for the +phenomena. Its fame spread far and wide; a pamphlet was written with an +account of it, and persons came miles to visit it. The tree, however, it +would seem with the fickleness attendant too often upon those who have +gained celebrity, would not always groan, yet no cause could be assigned +for its temporary cessations, either from seasons or weather. Many +superstitious tales were raised by the country people and alleged as +reasons for this singular occurrence; and for eighteen or twenty months +it continued an object of considerable interest; a gentleman of the name +of Forbes, making an experiment to discover its cause, by boring a hole +in its trunk, put a period to its agonies, it never groaned again. It +was afterwards rooted up with a further view to make a discovery, but in +vain. It is universally believed that there was no trick in the affair, +but that some natural cause really existed, though never understood. + +[Sidenote: The groaning tree.] + + +[C] BADDILEY. A parish in the hundred of Nantwich. This place is +principally remarkable for its church, standing on a small green +surrounded by farm buildings. It consists of a small nave and chancel, +and was constructed entirely of English oak; it is of the most remote +antiquity, and presented a most unique specimen of ecclesiastical +buildings of timber, previous to the introduction of stone; the upright +timbers being much decayed were cased with brick in 1811, it having +stood so many centuries that it was in danger of falling; the roof and +ceiling are still in fine preservation. In the chancel are remains of +some ancient stalls, and two elegant marble monuments, erected to the +Mainwaring family, who were lords of the manor. Baddiley Hall, the +former residence of this family, was a very old irregular building of +timber and plaister, but has been lately pulled down. + +[Sidenote: An oaken church.] + + +[D] BADDOW. (Great). This extensive, populous, and genteel village, from +its peculiarly delightful situation, has become the residence of a +considerable number of highly respectable families. Previous to the +conquest, the manor was part of the possessions of Algar, Earl of +Mercia. In consequence, however, of the rebellion of his son and +successor, Earl Eadwine, who was slain in battle, this lordship, with +other estates, was granted by King William to the monastery of the Holy +Trinity at Caen, in Normandy. In the reign of Henry I., the crown was +again possessed of it, and about the same period, the Earls of +Gloucester became its proprietors; from which time, after having been +vested in many noble families, it is now in the possession of the family +of Houblon. Two chauntries of some value were formerly in the church. + + Map|Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------------+----------+-------------+--------------+ + 14|Baddow, Little[A] pa|Essex |Chelmsford 5|Witham 6| + 33|Badger pa|Salop |Bridgenorth 6|Shifnal 6| + 15|Badgington pa|Gloucester|Cirencester 4|Northleach 9| + 15|Badgworth pa|Gloucester|Cheltenham 4|Painswick 8| + 34|Badgworth pa|Somerset |Axbridge 3|Bridgewater 12| + 36|Badingham pa|Suffolk |Framlingham 4|Halesworth 6| + 21|Badlesmere[B] pa|Kent |Faversham 4|Charing 6| + 36|Badley pa|Suffolk |Needham 2|Stowmarket 2| + 15|Badminton, Great[C] pa|Gloucester|Sodbury 6|Tetbury 10| + +--+---------------------+-----------+-------------+--------------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------------+------------------------+-----+--------+ + 14|Baddow, Little[A] pa|Maldon 7| 34| 548| + 33|Badger pa|Madeley 6| 134| 142| + 15|Badgington pa|Cheltenham 12| 93| 167| + 15|Badgworth pa|Gloucester 5| 98| 859| + 34|Badgworth pa|Wells 12| 133| 352| + 36|Badingham pa|Saxmundham 6| 91| 866| + 21|Badlesmere[B] pa|Canterbury 11| 48| 135| + 36|Badley pa|Bildeston 8| 71| 82| + 15|Badminton, Great[C] pa|Malmesbury 10| 106| 529| + +--+----------------------+----------------------+-------+--------+ + + +[A] BADDOW, (Little). The church at this place contains a rich and +splendid monument to the memory of Sir Henry Mildmay, Knight, who died +in October, 1639. He is represented in a full suit of armour, reposing +under a dome, which rests upon black marble pillars; two female figures +kneel at his feet; the one elderly, and dressed in a scarf and hood, the +other young, and magnificently attired in the fashion of the time. The +head of the knight is supported by a pillow. From a latin inscription +upon an oval tablet, we learn that Sir Henry having served as a soldier +in the Irish wars, was for his gallantry knighted in the field. The +carved effigies of two female figures, said by tradition to have been +sisters and founders of this church, occupy recesses in the south wall +of the centre aisle. Upon examining the two graves in which it was +supposed that the corpses of the persons whose figures stood in the +niches were interred, in one of them were found three skeletons, and two +in the other, but without the slightest vestige of wood, linen, coffin, +or any other covering to the bodies. In the year 1817, Edward Bullin, +Esq., bequeathed 196 acres of land, and a wood containing thirty-six +acres, for the purpose of clothing and educating the children in this +parish and that of Boreham. + +[Sidenote: Sir Henry Mildmay.] + +[Sidenote: Skeletons found.] + + +[B] BADLESMERE. Bartholomew de Badlesmere, lord of the manor in the +reign of Edward the Second, obtained a license for founding a house of +regular canons in this place. The church is a small and very plain Saxon +structure. In the porch are the fronts of two ancient wooden seats, +carved in high relief; one represents a shield, on which are the star, +ribbon, and motto of the order of the garter: on the other are some +Scriptural sentences, relative to the Holy Trinity, in four circles, +united by bands; so that the words Pater, Filius, Spisces and Deus, +though only once repeated in the circles, form a part of every sentence. + +[Sidenote: Curious carvings in wood.] + + +[C] BADMINTON, (Great) has been the seat of the ducal family of +Beaufort, ever since the demolition of Ragland Castle, in the civil +wars. Badminton House, the family residence of the duke, is situated in +a noble park nearly nine miles in circumference, through which various +avenues have been formed. It was erected by the first duke of Beaufort +in the year 1682. It is a very extensive building, on the French model. +In the hall is a large sarcophagus of Roman sculpture, representing a +bacchanalian procession; this was given to the third duke of Beaufort, +by Cardinal Alberoni. By that distinguished prelate, who died in 1745, +many curious and original paintings were procured during his residence +in Italy; among them is a Holy Family, by Raphael; and several by Guido +and Carlo Dolci are much esteemed. He also purchased the very singular +and finely painted satirical picture by Salvator Rosa, for which that +artist was expelled Rome. "The Sovereigns of the different nations are +here depicted by different animals, as an eagle, a wolf, a sheep, a hog, +a fox, a cow, and an ass; the latter has the pontifical pall thrown over +him, and the blind goddess, Fortune, is represented showering her gifts +over the whole group." Some excellent landscapes, by the Italian +masters, are also preserved here; and a very fine series of fourteen +portraits, of the Beauforts, from John of Gaunt, from whom they trace +their genealogy. Badminton church is an elegant structure; it was built +by the late duke in 1785, and contains many monuments of the Beaufort +family. + +[Sidenote: Duke of Beaufort's seat.] + +[Sidenote: Fine paintings.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+--------------------+----------+------------+-------------+ + 15|Badminton, Little ti|Gloucester|Sodbury 6|Tetbury 10| + 42|Badsey pa|Worcester |Evesham 2|Broadway 4| + 37|Badshot ti|Surrey |Farnham 2|Guildford 9| + 45|Badsworth pa|W.R. York |Pontefract 5|Wakefield 9| + 36|Badwell-Ash pa|Suffolk |Stowmarket 8|Ixworth 4| + 34|Bagborough-West pa|Somerset |Taunton 12|Watchet 7| + 43|Bagby chap|N.R. York |Thirsk 3|Borobridge 11| + 23|Baggrave lib|Leicester |Leicester 9|Melton 7| + 39|Baginton[A] pa|Warwick |Coventry 4|Rugby 13| + 54|Baglan[B] pa|Glamorgan |Neath 4|Aberavon 2| + +--+--------------------+----------+------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+--------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + 15|Badminton, Little ti|Malmesbury 10| 106| 116| + 42|Badsey pa|Alcester 15| 98| 463| + 37|Badshot ti|Frimley 7| 37| | + 45|Badsworth pa|Doncaster 11| 171| 782| + 36|Badwell-Ash pa|Bury 12| 78| 490| + 34|Bagborough-West pa|Stowey 8| 156| 453| + 43|Bagby chap|Easingwold 8| 220| 289| + 23|Baggrave lib|Houghton 5| 100| 16| + 39|Baginton[A] pa|Kenilworth 4| 90| 257| + 54|Baglan[B] pa|Swansea 13| 194| 410| + +--+--------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BAGINTON. The Hall, a seat of a descendant of the Bromley family, +who purchased the estate in the reign of James I., was built by +secretary Bromley. This gentleman, one of the most honest and able +servants of Queen Anne, was Speaker of the House of Commons. In proof of +the high estimation in which he was held, it is necessary only to cite a +memorable circumstance relative to the residence under notice. In 1706, +the family seat at Baginton was reduced to the ground by fire. +Intelligence of this calamity was conveyed to the owner while attending +his duty in the House of Commons, and a considerable sum was immediately +voted by parliament towards a restoration of the structure. Here is +barely to be traced the site of the castellated residence of Sir William +Bagot, a firm adherent of Richard II., at which the Duke of Hereford, +afterwards Henry IV., lodged the night previous to his projected +personal contest with Thomas Mowbray, Duke of Norfolk, in the presence +of the King on Gosford Green, where the lists were formed; the scene is +admirably described by Shakespeare. + +[Sidenote: Once destroyed by fire]. + + +[B] BAGLAN is a parish in the hundred of Neath. The village is of the +most romantic beauty, and the scenery in the neighbourhood is of a +delightful character. Near this place is Britton Ferry, which is +interesting, not only on account of its sylvan fascinations, but as +being the domain of Lord Jersey, whose extensive plantations spread over +several bold hills westward of the Neath river, a stream which here +emerges in a fine sweep, between woody banks, partly broken into cliffs +and at a short distance descends into the sea. "From a delightful shady +walk over the stream, we branched off," says Mr. Barber, "into an 'alley +green,' which led us up a steep hill, covered with large trees, and +tangled underwood; the ascent was judiciously traced, where several bare +crags, projecting from the soil, formed an opposite contrast to the +luxuriant verdure which prevailed around. On gaining the summit, the +charms of Britton Ferry disclosed themselves in 'an ample theatre of +sylvan grace,' of more than common beauty: beyond which, the Bristol +Channel, bounded by the aerial tint of its opposite coast, formed the +distance. From this roaming prospect, however, the eye gladly returned +to gaze on the local beauties of the scene, the tufted knoll, the dark +glade, and the majestic river." The mansion is a very ordinary building; +the house is low having two wings, with attic windows in the roof, +ornamented with a bullustraded parapet. The neat simplicity of the +hamlet deserves remark; perhaps the church is unrivalled, both for its +picturesque situation, and moral interest. The custom of planting +evergreens over the remains of departed friends, and bedecking them with +flowers at certain seasons of the year, is here attended to with +peculiar care; and to this pleasing tribute of tenderness and affection +the "Bard of Avon" refers in the following beautiful lines:-- + + "With fairest flowers while summer lasts, + I'll sweeten thy sad grave, thou shalt not lack + The flower that's like thy face, pale primrose: nor + The azured harebell, like thy veins: no, nor + The leaf of eglantine, whom not to slander, + Out-sweetened not thy breath." + +David Ap Gwillym also beautifully alludes to this practice: "Oh, while +thy season of flowers, and thy tender sprays thick of leaves remain, I +will pluck the roses from the brakes, the flowers from the meads, the +vivid trefoils, beauties of the ground, and the gaily smiling bloom of +the verdant herbs, humbly will I lay them on the grave of Ivor!" This +part of Wales is so mild in its climate, that myrtles, magnolias, and +other tender exotics, grow luxuriantly in the open air. Near Baglan is a +well with medicinal properties, but many superstitious notices are +associated with its use in the neighbourhood. + + _Mail_ arrives at Aberavon, 2 miles distant, 6 evening; departs, 7.30 + morning. + +[Sidenote: Lord Jersey's seat]. + +[Sidenote: Britton Ferry.] + +[Sidenote: Planting evergreens over graves.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+------------------+----------+------------+-------------+ + 4|Bagley Wood ti|Berks |Abingdon 3|Oxford 3| + 34|Bagnall to|Stafford |Leek 6|Newcastle 6| + 4|Bagnor to|Berks |Newbury 2|Hungerford 7| + 37|Bagshot[A] vil|Surrey |Staines 10|Blackwater 4| + 27|Bagthorpe pa|Norfolk |Burnham 7|Fakenham 9| + 7|Baguley to|Chester |Knutsford 2|Altringham 5| + 23|Bagworth chap|Leicester |M. Bosworth 5|Ashby 9| + 45|Baildon[B] to&chap|W.R. York |Bradford 5|Otley 6| + 22|Bailey to|Lancaster |Clithero 5|Blackburn 8| + +--+------------------+----------+-------------+------------+ + |Dist. + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+------------------+------------------------+-----+------+ + 4|Bagley Wood ti|Cumnor 4| 57| 21| + 34|Bagnall to|Cheadle 8| 154| 306| + 4|Bagnor to|Lambourn 10| 58| 594| + 37|Bagshot[A] vil|Windsor 11| 26| 1912| + 27|Bagthorpe pa|Lynn 14| 109| 73| + 7|Baguley to|Stockport 11| 176| 468| + 23|Bagworth chap|Leicester 10| 108| 328| + 45|Baildon[B] to&chap|Keighley 7| 201| 3041| + 22|Bailey to|Preston 14| 219| | + +--+------------------+------------------------+-----+------+ + + +[A] BAGSHOT is a village on the great western road, in the parish of +Windlesham, and hundred of Woking. Bagshot heath derives its name from +this village; it is one of the most extensive wastes in the kingdom, and +was formerly the scene of many highway robberies. Its appearance is +extremely desolate, but it is useful in supplying the inhabitants with +fuel, and feeds a great number of sheep, the mutton of which is +excellent; but like other animals fed on a similar pasture, the sheep +are small. On the edge of the heath are several noblemen's seats. Among +which, Hall Grove, the residence of Mrs. Birt; Chobham Place, S. +Thornton, Esq.; South Hill Park, the Earl of Limerick; and Easthampstead +Park, the seat of the Marquis of Downshire; are deserving the notice of +the curious traveller. Bagshot Park to the north of the village, was +once the seat of his late Majesty George IV. when Prince of Wales; after +which time it was inhabited by the late Duke of Gloucester, +(brother-in-law of his present Majesty) until the day of his decease, +which occurred on the 30th of November, 1834, in the 58th year of his +age; his remains were interred in St. George's Chapel, Windsor Castle, +on the 11th of the following month. Bagshot was formerly a lordship of +the kings of England, and was much resorted to by James I., and Charles +I., to enjoy the pleasures of the chace. + + _Mail_ arrives 10.14 night; departs 3.28 morning--_Inns_, King's + Arms, and White Hart. + +[Sidenote: Bagshot heath.] + + +[B] BAILDON is in the parish of Otley and wapentake of Skyrack, and is +situated on the river Aire. The inhabitants are principally engaged in +trade and manufactures. The Leeds and Liverpool Canal passes within a +mile and a half from this place. + + _Fair_, first Saturday in March and November, for horses, horned + cattle &c. + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-------------------+----------+---------------+-------------+ + 9|Bailie to|Cumberland|Carlisle 18|Bewcastle 2| + 43|Bainbridge to|N.R. York |Askrigg 2|Hawes 4| + 28|Bainton pa|Northamp |Wandsford 5|Deeping 4| + 31|Bainton ham|Oxford |Bicester 3|Deddington 8| + 46|Bainton pa|E.R. York |G. Driffield 6|Beverley 11| + 10|Bakewell[A] mt & pa|Derby |Chesterfield 11|Manchester 35| + +--+-------------------+----------+---------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-------------------+--------------------------+-----+-------+ + 9|Bailie to|Brampton 10| 312| 454| + 43|Bainbridge to|Middleham 13| 246| 831| + 28|Bainton pa|Stamford 4| 89| 171| + 31|Bainton ham|Aynhoe 6| 56| 27| + 46|Bainton pa|Weighton 10| 196| 300| + 10|Bakewell[A] mt & pa|Wirksworth 13| 153| 9503| + +--+-------------------+--------------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BAKEWELL. This ancient market town, in which the petty sessions for +the High Peak are holden, is situated on the western bank of the river +Wye. Of late years, the market has dwindled into insignificance, but the +parish is the most extensive in Derbyshire; its length is more than 20 +miles, and its breadth upwards of eight. The pasturage in this +neighbourhood is remarkably good. The town was anciently called +Bath-quelle; it appears to have derived its name from its Bath-well, the +immediate site of which has been for many years occupied by a collector +of minerals and fossils for private cabinets. From the circumstance of a +Roman altar, and other antiquities having been discovered here, there +can be but little doubt that Bakewell was a place of some note in the +time of the Romans. At the Conquest, Bakewell had two priests and a +church. The manor then belonged to William Peverell, ancestor of the +Peveril celebrated in the admirable romance by Sir Walter Scott, styled +"Peveril of the Peak." Bakewell church is an ancient structure, with a +lofty spire. Near the entrance of the town, from Ashford, is a mill, for +the carding, roving, doubling, spinning, and twisting of cotton, in +which some hundreds of persons of both sexes are employed; the mill was +erected by the late Sir Richard Arkwright, the founder of the cotton +trade in this neighbourhood. This distinguished character, whose +perseverance and admirable inventions raised him from one of the most +humble occupations in society--that of a barber--to affluence and +honour, was the youngest of thirteen children, and was born in the year +1732, at Preston, in Lancashire. A considerable manufacture of linen +goods, and of linen and cotton mixed, was then carried on in that +neighbourhood, and Mr. Arkwright had an opportunity of becoming +intimately acquainted with the various operations; and being a man of +superior powers, he directed his thoughts to the improvement of the mode +of spinning, which had probably been conducted for ages without thought +of change. The first hint respecting the means of effecting this +improvement, he said, he accidentally received from seeing a red hot +iron bar elongated, by being passed between iron cylinders. The +difficulties which he experienced before he could bring his machine into +use, even after its construction was sufficiently complete to +demonstrate its value, would, perhaps, have for ever retarded its +completion, had his genius and application been less ardent. His +pecuniary means were not such as to enable him to commence business on +his own account, and few were willing to incur the necessary risk. At +length, however, he secured the co-operation of some persons who saw the +merits of the invention, and were willing to assist his endeavours, and +he obtained his first patent for spinning by means of rollers in the +year 1769. To avoid the inconvenience of establishing a manufacture of +this kind at the great seat of the cotton manufacture, as it then +existed, he removed to Nottingham, when, in conjunction with his +partners, he erected his first mill, which was worked by horses. This +mode being found too expensive, another mill on a larger scale was +erected at Cromford, the machinery of which was put in motion by water. +Mr. Arkwright soon effected many improvements in the mode of preparing +the cotton for spinning, and invented a variety of ingenious machines +for that purpose, in the most correct and expeditious manner, for all +which he obtained a patent in the year 1775, and thus completed a series +of machinery so various and complicated, yet so admirably combined as to +excite universal approbation. That all this should have been +accomplished by a single man, without education, without mechanical +knowledge, or even mechanic's experience, is truly extraordinary; and +is, perhaps, equal to any known example of the wonderful powers of the +human mind, when steadily directed to one object. However, at the same +time that he was inventing or improving the machinery, he was engaged in +various undertakings which might have been thought incompatible with +other pursuits. He was taking measures to secure himself a fair +proportion of the fruits of his industry and ingenuity--he was greatly +extending the business--he was introducing into every department of the +manufactory, a novel system of industry, economy, order, and +cleanliness; the whole of which he so effectually accomplished, that his +example may be regarded as the origin of almost all similar +improvements. During this entire period, he was afflicted with a violent +asthma, which sometimes threatened the immediate termination of his +existence; and for some time previously to his death, he was rendered +incapable of continuing his usual pursuits, by a complication of +diseases, which, at length, deprived him of life at the Rock House, +Cromford, on the 23d of August, 1792. The honour of Knighthood was +bestowed on him by George III., in December, 1786, when he presented an +address to that monarch. Dr. Thomas Denman, an eminent physician, was +born at this place in 1733; after the death of Dr. William Hunter, he +was considered as the most eminent man of his profession. Towards the +decline of his life he gradually relinquished the more laborious parts +of his profession to his son-in-law, Sir Richard Croft, and became a +consulting physician. His death, which was very sudden, took place on +the 26th of November, 1815. He left two daughters and a son, the latter +of whom, adopting the legal profession, is now Lord Chief Justice of the +Court of King's Bench. + + _Market_, Friday.--_Fairs_, Easter Monday; Whit Monday; August 26; + Monday after October 10; Monday after November 22, for cattle and + horses,--_Inn_, Rutland Arms, allowed to be one of the best Inns in + the kingdom, and is much frequented by anglers during the summer + season.--_Mail_ arrives 12.10 afternoon; departs 6.0 morning. + +[Sidenote: Seat of the Peverils of the Peak.] + +[Sidenote: Sir Richard Arkwright.] + +[Sidenote: Cotton mills.] + +[Sidenote: Dr. Thomas Denman.] + + Map|Names of Places.| County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------+----------+-------------+------------+ + 55|Bala[A] to| Merioneth|Shrewsbury 41|Dolgelly 18| + +--+----------------+----------+-------------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places.| Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------+------------------------+-----+------+ + 55|Bala[A] to| Corven 12| 195| 1163| + +--+----------------+----------+-------------+------------+ + + +[A] BALA is situated at the outlet of the lake of the same name. It is a +clean and populous market town, consisting of one wide principal street, +and others crossing it at right angles. The houses are in general built +very low. The young women commonly go barefooted; they are however well +formed, and have little of the strong Welsh physiognomy. At this place +is carried on a great trade in woollen gloves and stockings. Just before +the entrance of the town is an artificial mount called "Tommen y Bala," +(the tumulus of Bala) which is supposed to be of Roman origin, and +placed here with a small castle on its summit to secure the pass towards +the sea, which is about twenty-five miles distant. Bala Lake, or Llyn +Tegid, is a quarter of a mile south of the town; it is the largest lake +in Wales, being about four miles long, and in some places near a mile in +breadth. At Bryn Goleu, its depth is several fathoms. The scenery around +is mountainous, and it forms the principal attraction of the vicinity, +yet it possesses none of the grand discriminating traits of the lakes of +Scotland or Ireland. The overflowings of this lake are sometimes +dreadful; but this only happens when the winds rush from the mountains +at the upper end. In stormy weather, when swelled by torrents, the water +is driven to the height of eight or nine feet, covering great part of +the vale of Edeirnion, and almost threatening the town with destruction. +In calm settled weather, it has been so smooth as to be frozen over. The +river Dee rises from under Arran ben Llyn, the high mountain at the head +of the lake; and according to Giraldus Cambriensis, Drayton, and others, +passes through this immense body of water without deigning to intermix +its waters, as the Rhone is said to pass through the lake of Geneva, and +the classic Alpheus through the waters of the Adriatic. Hence it has +been asserted, that salmon are never found in the lake, or gwiniad in +the river; it however abounds with a variety of excellent fish, among +which we may mention pike, trout, perch, and eels. The fishery in the +13th century belonged to the Abbey of Basingwerk; the whole property is +vested at present in Sir Watkyn Williams Wynne, Bart., who allows the +fishermen to be occasionally employed in attending fishing parties with +a boat and nets, without such privilege no person is allowed the use of +nets; but angling is freely permitted, and gentlemen as distant as from +London visit this place entirely for the sake of indulging in this +amusement. Of the inns at Bala, Mr. Hutton says, "although I have often +only reposed one night at an inn, yet from agreeable treatment and +conversation, I found some regret the next morning at parting; and +though I saw the people but once, my mind revolted at the idea of seeing +them no more." The town of Bala is governed by two bailiffs, and a +common council, and the assizes are held here and at Dolgelly +alternately; it is likewise one of the polling places for the county. + + _Market_ Saturday--_Fairs_, May 14; July 10; Sep. 11 and 22; Oct. 24; + and Nov. 8.--_Mail_ arrives 8.0 morning; departs 5.0 afternoon. + +[Sidenote: The largest lake in Wales.] + +[Sidenote: The lake fisheries.] + + Map|Names of Places. | County.| Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------+---------+-------------+-----------+ + 45|Balby[A] to|W.R. York|Doncaster 2|Tickhill 6| + 38|Balcombe pa|Sussex |Cuckfield 4|Horsham 10| + +--+-----------------+---------+-------------+-----------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------+-----------------------+-----+-----+ + 45|Balby[A] to|Rotherham 11| 163 | 420| + 38|Balcombe pa|E. Grinstead 9| 33 | 641| + +--+-----------------+-----------------------+-----+-----+ + + +[A] BALBY. In this village George Fox, the founder of the Society of +Friends, or Quakers, held his first meetings. His father, who was a +weaver, gave him a very religious education; he was apprenticed to a +grazier, and much employed as a shepherd. From his earliest infancy he +displayed a tendency to enthusiasm, and no doubt his solitary employment +tended to confirm it. At the early age of nineteen he persuaded himself +that he was called to exercise his faculties, solely in the affairs of +religion. Forsaking his relations, he determined to devote himself to +that alone. Equipped in a leathern doublet, he wandered from place to +place, subsisting by the charity of those who received his doctrines. At +length he reached the metropolis, where, being discovered by his +friends, he was earnestly invited to return. This, however, he refused +to do, and after remaining with them a short time, he again betook +himself to his itinerant habits. He now walked abroad in retired places, +fasting and studying the Bible by day and night, and sometimes a hollow +tree was his habitation, book in hand, for a day together. In 1648, he +publicly propagated his opinions, commencing as public preacher at +Manchester, which place he frequently left to perambulate the adjacent +towns, preaching in the market-houses. About this time he began to adopt +the manners and habits which are peculiar to the society following his +religious opinions; nor was he free from the persecution which +constantly follows novelty, in any thing regarded as an innovation of a +religious nature. At Derby, the disciples of Fox were first denominated +Quakers, from the trembling delivery of their sentences, and their calls +on the magistrates to tremble before the Lord. In 1655, Fox was sent a +prisoner to Cromwell, who immediately liberated him upon ascertaining +the peaceful nature of his doctrines. He was, however, treated by the +country magistracy with great severity, from his frequently interrupting +ministers, even during divine service, and more than once the Protector, +Oliver Cromwell, exerted himself to obtain his freedom. A fast having +been appointed on account of the persecution of Protestants in foreign +countries, he addressed a letter to the heads and governors of the +nation, descrying, in most forcible terms, the impropriety of having +recourse to severity of a similar nature at home. Charles II. liberated +him from prison in the year 1666, and from that time they formally +united as a "Society of Friends." Three years afterwards he married the +widow of Judge Fell, in the simple unostentatious manner practised by +the sect to the present day. His health, however, was impaired by +imprisonment and suffering, and he lived in a more retired manner to the +day of his death, which took place in the year 1690, in the 67th year of +his age. + +[Sidenote: George Fox the Quaker.] + +[Sidenote: His wanderings and imprisonment.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+------------------+----------+-----------+-------------+ + 43|Baldersley[A] to|N.R. York |Ripon 6|Thirsk 6| + 22|Balderston chap|Lancaster |Preston 7|Blackburn 5| + 30|Balderton pa|Nottingham|Newark 2|Bingham 12| + 18|Baldock[B] m.t.&pa|Hertford |Hertford 19|Biggleswade 8| + 31|Baldon Marsh pa|Oxford |Oxford 7|Abingdon 7| + 31|Baldon-Toot pa|Oxford |... 6|... 7| + +--+-----------------+-----------+-----------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+------------------+----------------------+-------------+ + 43|Baldersley[A] to|Borobridge 8| 214| 267| + 22|Balderston chap|Clitheroe 12| 217| 658| + 30|Balderton pa|Grantham 12| 122| 830| + 18|Baldock[B] m.t.&pa|Stevenage 6| 37| 1704| + 31|Baldon Marsh pa|Wheatley 7| 52| 318| + 31|Baldon-Toot pa|... 7| 53| 272| + +--+------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BALDERSLEY. Near this village is an extensive common, called Hutton +Conyers Moor, on which there is a rabbit-warren; the inhabitants have a +right of estray for their sheep on this moor, in conjunction with some +other townships, and each township has a shepherd. The lord's shepherd +has a pre-eminence of tending his sheep on every part of the common; and +wherever he herds the lord's sheep, the several other shepherds are to +give place to him, and give up what is termed their hofiong place, so +long as they are depastured thereon. The lord's court is held on the +first of January; the shepherds attend the court, and each do fealty by +bringing a large apple-pye and a two-penny sweet-cake; each pye is +divided into two parts, and distributed by the bailiff between the +steward, the tenant of the rabbit-warren, and the shepherds of the +townships, reserving a portion however for himself. Each pye contains +about a peck of flour, and the bailiff measures them with a rule to see +that they are of the proper dimensions; should they not be so he +threatens to fine the town; he, however, has to provide furmenty (a food +made by boiling wheat in milk) and mustard. The furmenty is put into an +earthen pot, and the top of the dish placed level with the ground, all +persons present are invited to partake; those who do not accept the +invitation are deemed disloyal to their lord. Every shepherd is +compelled to bring a spoon with him, and in cases of neglect, or wilful +pleasantry, they are obliged to sup the hot furmenty from the pot, and +the bystanders not unfrequently plunge the offenders head into the +mixture, as a matter of diversion. + +[Sidenote: Right of Common.] + +[Sidenote: Singular custom.] + + +[B] BALDOCK is situated between two hills, at the intersection of the +great north road, and the Roman Ikeneld street. It was formerly the +property of the Knights Templars, to whom Gilbert, Earl of Pembroke, +gave the site; it was then called Baudoc: but some antiquarians, with +little reason, derive its name from Balbec, a city in Syria, from which +this order of knights was expelled by the Saracens. It principally +consists of one long ancient street. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, +is a spacious structure, and was built by the Knights Templars, and +again partly rebuilt in the early part of the fifteenth century. All the +early portion of this structure is of pure Roman architecture, and the +latter of the florid gothic. The steeple, which is octagonal, was +rebuilt a few years ago. In the church is a richly carved oaken screen, +part of the ancient rood-loft, and a very curious font. In cutting +through Baldock-hill, to form a new road, a number of fossils, +consisting of cornua ammonis, sharks' teeth, &c., were discovered. There +is a curious custom in this manor. When the Steward holds his Court +Leet, the bell tolls, to summons the copyhold tenants together, to do +their suit and service at dinner, to which every baker sends a loaf of +bread, and every victualler a flagon of ale or beer. The object of this +custom is intended for the Court Leet to examine the measures, as well +as to judge of the quality of the articles of food. + + _Market_, Thursday.--_Fairs_, March 7; last Thursday in May; August + 5; October 2; December 11, for cheese, cattle, and household + goods.--_Mail_ arrives 12.31 morning, departs 2.16 + morning.--_Bankers_, Williamson and Co., draw on Hoare and + Co.--_Inn_, White Hart. + +[Sidenote: Sharks' teeth found in cutting through a hill.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+--------------------+---------+--------------+--------------+ + 27|Bale pa|Norfolk |Holt 5|Cley 6| + 37|Balham vil|Surrey |Clapham 1|Tooting 2| + 43|Balke to|N.R. York|Thirsk 4|Helmsley 10| + 46|Balke-Holme to|E.R. York|Howden 2|South Cave 10| + 10|Ballidon to|Derby |Ashborne 6|Wirksworth 6| + 14|Ballingdon pa chap|Essex |Sudbury 1|Halstead 8| + 17|Ballingham pa|Hereford |Hereford 7|Ross 6| + 45|Balne to|W.R. York|Snaith 4|Pontefract 10| + 39|Balsall chap|Warwick |Warwick 10|Coventry 10| + 31|Balscott ham|Oxford |Banbury 5|Chip Norton 14| + 6|Balsham pa|Cambridge|Linton 4|Cambridge 8| + 35|Balterley to|Stafford |Newcastle 7|Congleton 9| + 34|Baltonsborough pa|Somerset |Glastonbury 4|Somerton 4| + 29|Bambrough to & pa|Northumb |Belford 5|Holy Island 6| + 29|Bambrough[A] to|Northumb |... 5|... 6| + 10|Bamford ham|Derby |S. Middleton 6|Sheffield 11| + 22|Bamford to|Lancaster|Rochdale 3|Manchester 7| + 11|Bampton[B] m.t. & pa|Devon |Exeter 23|Tiverton 7| + 31|Bampton[C] m.t. & pa|Oxford |Oxford 16|Witney 5| + +--+--------------------+---------+--------------+--------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+--------------------+------------------------+-----+--------+ + 27|Bale pa|Walsingham 6| 117| 275| + 37|Balham vil|Epsom 9| 5| ...| + 43|Balke to|Easingwold 9| 222| 72| + 46|Balke-Holme to|Weighton 12| 182| 107| + 10|Ballidon to|Winster 6| 142| 108| + 14|Ballingdon pa chap|Bury 17| 54| 283| + 17|Ballingham pa|Ledbury 12| 126| 147| + 45|Balne to|Thorne 8| 173| 343| + 39|Balsall chap|Solihul 5| 100| 1038| + 31|Balscott ham|Deddington 9| 74| 213| + 6|Balsham pa|Newmarket 9| 52| 1074| + 35|Balterley to|Nantwich 12| 153| ...| + 34|Baltonsborough pa|Cas. Caray 8| 121| 675| + 29|Bambrough to & pa|Alnwick 15| 324| 3949| + 29|Bambrough[A] to|... 15| 61| 324| + 10|Bamford ham|Castleton 4| 165| 238| + 22|Bamford to|Bury 6| 189| 1207| + 11|Bampton[B] m.t. & pa|Morebath 2| 162| 1961| + 31|Bampton[C] m.t. & pa|Farringdon 7| 71| 2514| + +--+--------------------+------------------------+-----+--------+ + + +[A] BAMBROUGH CASTLE is situated on the romantic coast of +Northumberland, near an obscure town of the same name; it stands upon a +triangular rock, high, rugged, and abrupt on the land side. But we leave +its description, which would be too lengthy, and turn rather to the +account of the benevolent institution founded in 1720, by Lord Crewe, +Bishop of Durham, of which it is the seat. The keep of the castle is +fitted up for suffering seamen, and property which may have been rescued +from the fury of the ocean. Regulations were also adopted to prevent +accidents on the coast, and to alleviate misfortunes when they had +occurred. A nine-pounder placed at the bottom of the great tower, gives +signals to ships in distress; and in case of a wreck announces it to the +Custom-house officers, who hasten to prevent its being plundered. In +addition to this, during a storm, horsemen patrol the coast, and rewards +are paid for the earliest intelligence of vessels in distress. A flag is +always hoisted when any ship is seen in distress on the Fern Islands or +Staples; or a rocket thrown up at night, which gives notice to the +fishermen of Holy Island, who put off to the spot when no boat from the +main can get over the breakers. There has also been life-boats added to +the establishment. Within the walls of the castle are supported two +free-schools, an infirmary, thirty beds for shipwrecked sailors, and a +granary, whence poor persons are supplied with provision at the first +price. There is also a library, the books of which are circulated +gratuitously for twenty miles round. This philanthropic endowment has +not been suffered to decay with the romance of olden time, but the +charitable intentions of the testator are fulfilled so as to exhibit a +lasting record of his active benevolence. + +[Sidenote: Seat of the Bishop of Durham.] + +[Sidenote: Noble charity.] + + +[B] BAMPTON. A market town, situated near the little river Batherme, +which flows into the Exe at about one mile distance. Mr. Polwhele +considers that this was a Roman station, and here, probably, the Romans +had artificial hot-baths. A chalybeate spring in this neighbourhood is +much celebrated for its medicinal qualities. John de Bampton, a +Carmelite, who was the first who publicly read Aristotle in Cambridge, +was born here: he died in 1391. The manufactures of the place are serges +and pottery. + + _Market_, Saturday.--_Fairs_, Whit Tuesday, and last Thursday in + October, for cattle. + +[Sidenote: John de Bampton.] + + +[C] BAMPTON. Here are some slight remains of an ancient castle, supposed +to have been erected in the reign of King John. The celebrated poet, +John Philips, the son of Dr. Stephen Philips, archdeacon of Salop, was +born in this town, on the 30th of December, 1676, and after the +preliminary process of juvenile education, was sent to Winchester, where +he was distinguished by the superiority of his exercises, and at school +endeared himself to all his companions and superiors: it is related of +him, that he seldom mingled in the play of other boys, but retired to +his chamber, and indulged in the study of the poets and of the ancient +and modern classics, particularly Milton. In 1694, he was removed to +Christchurch, Oxford, where he finished all his University acquirements; +but Milton--the immortal Milton--continued to be his uninterrupted day +dream: and he might have exclaimed in the language of that poet, I will +study the magnificence of thy etherial phantasy, + + "From morn till noon, from noon to dewey eve, + When Urania visits my nightly + Slumbers, or when morn purples the east." + +It is said that there was not an allusion in "Paradise Lost," drawn from +any hint either in "Homer," or "Virgil," to which he could not +immediately refer. While at Oxford he was honoured with the friendship +of Mr. Edmund Smith, author of the Tragedy of "Phaedra and Hippolitus;" +and also with that of the most polite and favoured of the gentlemen in +the University. His first poem was published in 1703, entitled, "The +Splendid Shilling," which has the merit of an original design. His next +poem, entitled "Blenheim," which he wrote as a rival to Addison's poem +on the same subject, was published in 1705, and procured him the +patronage of Mr. Henry Saint John, afterwards Lord Bolingbroke. +Independent of poetry, Philips was an excellent botanist; in 1706 he +produced his third poem on "Cyder," founded on the model of Virgil's +Georgics, a book not only of entertainment but of science; and soon +afterwards, a latin Ode, "to Henry Saint John, Esq.," said to have been +the poet's masterpiece. "It is gay and elegant," says Dr. Johnson, "and +exhibits several artful accommodations of classic expressions to new +purposes." At the time of his illness, Philips was meditating a poem to +be called "The Last Day;" death put an end to so solemn and majestic a +finale of genius. He died at Hereford, of a lingering consumption, +February 15, 1708, in the thirty-third year of his age, and was buried +in the cathedral of that city. Sir Simon Harcourt, afterwards Lord +Chancellor, erected a monument to his memory in Westminster Abbey, the +epitaph upon which was written by Doctor Atterbury. Philips was a +gentleman of a modest and amiable disposition, "and always praised +without contradiction," (says Dr. Johnson) "as a man, modest, blameless, +and pious, who bore a narrow fortune without discontent--and tedious and +painful maladies without impatience; beloved by those who knew him, but +not ambitious to be known." + + _Market_, Wednesday.--_Fairs_, March 26, and August 26, for cattle + and toys. + +[Sidenote: John Philips the poet.] + +[Sidenote: Philips's poetical works.] + +[Sidenote: Character and death.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+--------------------+----------+------------+-----------+ + 40|Bampton[A] to & pa|Westmorlnd|Orton 10|Penrith 9| + 40|Bampton-Grange ham|Westmorlnd| 10| 9| + 9|Bampton, Little to|Cumberland|Wigton 5|Carlisle 7| + +--+--------------------+----------+------------+-----------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+--------------------+-----------------------+-----+-----+ + 40|Bampton[A] to & pa|Shap 4 | 282| 636| + 40|Bampton-Grange ham| ... 4| 282| | + 9|Bampton, Little to|Longtown 10| 311| 213| + +--+--------------------+-----------------------+-----+-----+ + + +[A] BAMPTON. The river Lowther runs through this parish. Here is a +beautiful lake, called Haweswater, three miles long, and half a mile +broad; it is environed by lofty mountains, conveying to the mind a grand +and imposing appearance: its eastern side is sheltered by rocky +eminences, plentifully clothed with verdure, while the western side +displays the open fields, with all the sweet varieties of culture. A +lead mine has lately been discovered in the neighbourhood. The free +grammar-school was founded by Thomas Sutton, D.D., who vested in +trustees the sum of L500., collected from estates out of the parish of +St. Saviour, Southwark, and other places. Here, also, three parochial +libraries were established respectively, in the years 1710, 1750, 1752, +comprising about 800 volumes. Thomas Gibson, M.D., who married the +daughter of Richard Cromwell, Protector, was Physician-General of the +army, and a native of this parish. He was the author of a system of +anatomy. The learned doctor, having laid the foundation of his classical +learning at a school in this county, he entered as scholar at Queen's +College, Oxford, in 1686. The study of the northern languages about this +period was particularly cultivated at the University, and Mr. Gibson +rigidly applied himself to that branch of literature, in which he was +assisted by Dr. Hicks. In a short time he translated into Latin the +"Chronicon Saxonicum," and published it together with the Saxon +original. Dr. Gibson had an early and strong inclination to search the +antiquities of his own country, and being well versed in the knowledge +of its original languages, he applied himself with great diligence, and +in a few years produced his edition of "Camden's Britannica," and +concluded this branch of learning with "Reliquae Spelmannianae," or the +posthumous works of Sir Henry Spelman, relating to the laws and +antiquities of England, which, with a life of the author, he published +at Oxford, in 1698, and dedicated his work to Archbishop Tenison. About +this time he was taken as Domestic Chaplain to the Archbishop's family, +and soon afterwards was made Rector of Lambeth, and Archdeacon of +Surrey. Upon the death of the Archbishop, in 1715, Dr. Wake, Bishop of +Lincoln, succeeded him, and Dr. Gibson was appointed to that See; and +Dr. Robinson also dying, in 1720, Gibson was appointed Bishop of London. +The ministry were so sensible of his great abilities, that a sort of +ecclesiastical ministry was committed to his charge for several years. +He died on the 6th of September, 1748, with true Christian fortitude, +and in perfect tranquillity of mind. + +[Sidenote: Haweswater lake.] + +[Sidenote: Dr. Thomas Gibson.] + +[Sidenote: An Antiquarian.] + +[Sidenote: Made Bishop of London.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County.| Number of Miles From | + +--+---------------------+--------+-----------+------------+ + 53|Bannel to|Flint |Hawarden 3|Mold 4| + 31|Banbury[A] bo. & m.t.|Oxford |Oxford 21|Woodstock 16| + +--+---------------------+--------+-----------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From|Lond.|Population. + +--+---------------------+--------------------+-----+------+ + 53|Bannel to|Wrexham 10| 196 | ...| + 31|Banbury[A] bo. & m.t.|Southam 14| 76 | 5906| + +--+---------------------+--------------------+-----+------+ + + +[A] BANBURY is pleasantly situated on the small river Charwell, and its +staple commodities seem to be cheese and cakes; the former, even in +Shakspeare's time, appear to have been celebrated, for Bardolph, when +accused by "Slender" of robbing him of his two milled sixpences, +exclaims, "You Banbury cheese." The cakes have made this town more +celebrated than even its political engagements. The castle of Banbury +was founded in the year 1153, by Alexander, Bishop of Lincoln, and +continued an episcopal residence till the reign of Henry VI. During the +contentions between the houses of York and Lancaster, when civil discord +was a familiar incident in this neighbourhood, Banbury suffered much; +but more particularly in the memorable engagement, called "The Battle of +Banbury," fought about three miles from the town, in 1469. It took place +on a plane called Danesmoor, near Edgecote. The Earl of Warwick was the +commander of the Lancasterian forces, and the Yorkists were led by the +Earls of Stafford and Pembroke, who had possession of the town. After +one of the most determined conflicts ever recorded, the Yorkists were +routed; the Earl of Pembroke and his brother were both taken and +beheaded, and Edward IV. himself made prisoner a few days after. In +1642, the towns-people took part with the Parliament, but after the +battle of Edgehill, this castle was taken by the royalists, under Sir +William Compton, who defended it for 13 weeks against all the efforts of +Sir John Fiennes, until the garrison was relieved by the Earl of +Northampton. It suffered a further siege of 10 weeks, under Sir William +Waller, and surrendered on honourable terms. Leland, who wrote in the +Reign of Henry VIII., says, "In this castle is a terrible prison for +convict men." A stone vault, with grated windows, and traces of the +inner ditch, is supposed to have been the terrible prison alluded to, +but very small remains exist in the present day. The free grammar-school +is now wholly abandoned, and the school-house let out on lease by the +corporation. This is much to be regretted, as it was formerly held in +such high estimation, that the statutes of this establishment were taken +as a model for St. Paul's school, London; and the statutes of the free +grammar-school of Manchester, in 1524, ordain, that the grammar taught +in that school, should be taught only "after the manner of the school at +Banbury, in Oxfordshire, which is called Stanbridge's Grammar." Mr. +Stanbridge, the celebrated grammarian alluded to, was a highly learned +man, and tutor to Sir Thomas Pope. Adjoining the Ram Inn is a sulphurous +well, and at a small distance from the town is a chalybeate spring. The +pyrites aureus, or golden fire-stone, is frequently found in this +neighbourhood. Among other interesting remains about the town is an +ancient hospital, dedicated to St. John, now converted into a +farm-house. This borough returns one member to parliament, as it did +before the passing of the Reform Bill. The electors of the old +constituency were but 18 in number, but the L10. householders are about +365. The borough comprises the parish, and the returning-officer is the +Mayor. + + _Market_, Thursday.--_Fairs_, Thursday after Jan. 18, for cattle, + horses, and sheep: first Thursday in Lent; second Thursday before + Easter, cattle and sheep; Ascension Day; Thursday and Friday in + Trinity week; August 13, horses, cows, and sheep; Thursday after Old + Michaelmas, hogs and cheese; October 30; and second Thursday before + Christmas. Cheese, hops, and cattle.--_Mail_ arrives 4.15 morning; + departs 10.34 night.--_Bankers_, (Old Bank) Cobb and Co., draw on + Jones, Lloyd, and Co.; Gibbons and Co., draw on Robarts and Co.; + Gillett and Co., draw on Esdaile and Co.--_Inns_, Red Lion, and White + Lion. + +[Sidenote: Cheese and cakes.] + +[Sidenote: Battle of Banbury.] + +[Sidenote: Once a celebrated grammar school.] + +[Sidenote: Electors.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-------------------+----------+------------+-------------+ + 50|Bangor[A] city & pa|Caernarvon|Caernarvon 9|Aberconway 15| + +--+-------------------+----------+------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + 50|Bangor[A] city & pa|Holyhead 24| 245| 4751| + +--+-------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BANGOR, which signifies the beautiful choir, is a Bishop's See; +compared to its former size, it is now but an inconsiderable place. It +is seated at the mouth of the Menai, near its opening to the Lavan +sands, in a narrow valley, between two low ridges of slate rock, opening +to the south, towards the majestic mountain, Snowdon, which rises 3571 +feet above the level of the sea. Mr. Warner, the intelligent Welsh +tourist, and his companion, spoke in raptures of this place. The beauty, +repose, and retirement of the whole pleased them wonderfully. The latter +observed, "If he were Bishop of Bangor, the only translation he would +covet would be, thence to heaven." The former agreed with him, that +"Were fate to throw him also into such a spot, very few attractions +would have sufficient force to elicit him from it." They had "Never seen +a place which united so many beauties in so narrow a circle." From this +city the new road finds its way through a low pass in the adjacent +ridge, and descends gently along the face of the sloping bank to the +great bridge: this road is very smooth and well protected, and worthy of +the magnificent scenery by which it is surrounded. Menai suspension +bridge is distant about two miles and a half from Bangor. This noble +bridge is substituted for the inconvenient ferry; it is 100 feet above +the level of high water, even at spring tides. The cathedral is a low +plain building, dedicated to St. Deiniol, to whom it owed its origin +about the year 525, and he was elected the first bishop in 550. He was +the son of Dinothus, Abbot of Bangor-iscoed, and reared under the +auspices of a Welsh prince, patron of the bard Talliesin, and perhaps +the most liberal prince of his time. In 1402 it was burnt down, during +the rebellion of Owen Glendower; and what is rather singular, it was +suffered to remain in ruins during the space of 90 years, when the choir +was rebuilt by the Bishop in the reign of Henry VII. But that cruel +ravager of ecclesiastical property, Bishop Bulkeley, not only alienated +the lands belonging to the cathedral, but even had the audacity to sell +the bells of the church. The choir is fitted up in a style of neat and +simple elegance, and ornamented with an excellent organ, the gift of Dr. +Thomas Lloyd, in 1779. The chapter consists of a dean, three +archdeacons, two precentors, two vicars choral, six minor canons, six +lay clerks, and eight choristers, with an income of L2,000. per annum. +The windows of the cathedral were formerly very handsomely ornamented +with stained glass, but in the civil wars of Charles I. the soldiers +destroyed these, amongst other things. The most conspicuous monument in +this building is that erected to the memory of Owen Gwynedd, one of the +ancient princes of Wales. Here are several Dissenting meeting-houses, +and the town is the resort of many visitors during the summer season; +upwards of 50,000 annually are said to remain for longer or shorter +periods. Steam-packets ply between this place and Liverpool. + + _Market_, Friday.--_Fairs_, April 5; June 25; September 16; and + October 28.--_Mail_ arrives at Menai Bridge 4.15 morning; departs + 8.32 afternoon. + +[Sidenote: The suspension bridge.] + +[Sidenote: Cathedral.] + + Map|Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+------------------+----------+---------------+------------+ + 53|Bangor[A] vil & pa|Flint |Ellesmere 11|Overton 3| + 27|Banham pa|Norfolk |East Harling 5|Buckenham 2| + 45|Bank-Newton to|W.R. York |Skipton 5|Settle 11| + 9|Banks to|Cumberland|Carlisle 13|Brampton 3| + 27|Banningham pa|Norfolk |Aylesham 3|N. Walsham 5| + 37|Banstead[B] pa|Surrey |Ewell 3|Croydon 6| + 34|Banwell[C] pa|Somerset |Axbridge 4|Bristol 18| + 21|Bapchild pa|Kent |Sittingbourne 2|Milton 3| + 40|Barbon chap|Westmorl. |Kirkby Lons. 3|Sedbergh 7| + +--+------------------+----------+---------------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+------------------+-----------+--------------+-----+------+ + 53|Bangor[A] vil & pa|Wrexham 5| 174| 1389| + 27|Banham pa|Diss 7| 92| 1297| + 45|Bank-Newton to|Burnley 15| 221| 125| + 9|Banks to|Longtown 14| 314| 296| + 27|Banningham pa|Cromer 9| 121| 369| + 37|Banstead[B] pa|Sutton 3| 15| 991| + 34|Banwell[C] pa|Fensford 16| 130| 1623| + 21|Bapchild pa|Faversham 6| 41| 319| + 40|Barbon chap|Kendal 11| 258| 318| + +--+------------------+--------------------------+-----+------+ + + +[A] BANGOR ISCOED is situated on the banks of the river Dee, which here +passes under a bridge of five arches. This place, at present very +inconsiderable, is famed on account of having been the site of the most +ancient monastery in the kingdom, founded by Lucius, the son of Coel, +the first Christian King of Britain, sometime previous to the year 180. +This abbey was remarkable for its valuable library, and the number of +learned men trained within its venerable walls. Gildas Ninnius, who +lived in the 7th century, was one of its abbots. He wrote in Latin an +incorrect history of England, which is still extant. According to Speed, +this monastery, in the year 596, contained no less than 2,400 monks, 100 +of which passed in their turns one hour of devotion; there are no +remains of the monastery existing. + +[Sidenote: The first abbey established in Britain.] + + +[B] BANSTEAD is celebrated for the excellent herbage which the +neighbouring downs afford the sheep, which are highly prized for the +delicate flavour of the mutton. There are many elegant seats in the +vicinity, amongst which are Banstead House, Miss Motteux; Cold Blow +Cottage, General Sir Edward Howorth; and the Oaks, the seat of the Earl +of Derby. This celebrated villa was erected by a society of gentlemen, +called the "Hunter's Club," and the present noble proprietor can +accommodate his guests with more than 50 bed chambers; and a pack of +hounds are kept on the establishment, which has been long noted for its +hospitality. On the 26th of February, 1834, Mr. John Richardson, a +farmer, returning from Epsom to Banstead, was robbed and murdered on +these downs. + +[Sidenote: Seat of the Earl of Derby.] + + +[C] BANWELL is an agreeable village, situated under the northern +declivity of the Mendip hills, and is supposed to derive its name from a +spring strongly impregnated with mineral properties, which expands into +a fine sheet of water, and after turning two mills, empties itself into +the channel near the ruins of Woodspring Priory. The church, which is a +fine specimen of the florid gothic of the Tudor age, contains a richly +carved screen and rood loft, a beautiful sculptured stone pulpit, and +several windows of the richest stained glass. This manor has been in the +possession of the Bishops of Bath and Wells, from the reign of Edward +the Confessor, with little exception, till the present time. They had +for many centuries a palace here, but nothing of it remains except a +private residence called Banwell Court, still interesting for its +antiquity. The park has been divided into enclosures, which afford at +every point a most pleasing variety of landscapes. The Bishop of Bath +and Wells has also a cottage ornee, for the accommodation of his family +and of the numerous visitors which are driven hither to view the two +singular caverns which have been discovered of late years in this +neighbourhood. The monastery of Banwell was founded by the early Saxon +monarchs. Asserius, or Asser, the scholar and biographer of King Alfred, +was made Abbot by that monarch. This Abbey was destroyed by the Danes; +it was afterwards restored, but never recovered its pristine importance; +for instead of arriving at the point of prosperity usual in Royal +foundations, it sunk into obscurity long prior to the dissolution of +religious houses. Banwell is remarkable for two extraordinary caverns +discovered in the year 1824, which occasioned no inconsiderable number +of the curious to resort to the village. They were first discovered by +some workmen digging a shaft in search of Calamine, which intersected a +steep narrow fissure; after they had descended about 80 feet it opened +into a spacious cavern, 150 feet long and 30 broad, and about 30 feet +high. This is called the stalactite cavern, from the beautiful specimens +of crystalized stalactite, which lay covering huge fragments of rock +about the floor. In this place were found two pieces of candle, +encrusted with lime, supposed to have been left by the miners after +working for ochre, calamine, &c. A rich vein of iron ore, with some +cobalt and manganese, was also discovered, the working of which has long +since commenced, and the produce is conveyed to the smelting works on +the southern coast of Wales. The workmen, in order to facilitate an +easier method of entrance, opened another fissure lower in the rock, +when suddenly another cavern presented itself, the floor of which was +covered with a mass of sand, limestone, teeth, bones, &c. Professor +Buckland, who surveyed this place, states, that a shaft being driven +into this mass, proved it to have been nearly 40 feet deep. The bones +consisted of various specimens of the ox tribe, including the elk. +Skeletons of the wolf, and a gigantic bear, in point of preservation, +like what are to be found in ordinary churchyards--supposed to be of +antediluvian origin, where found here. In the roof of the cave is a +large chimney-like shaft, formerly rising to the surface, but now +blocked up by fragments of limestone, mud, and sand, adhering together +by incrustation, and through which dreadful pitfall, it is presumed, +this immense number of beasts were precipitated at the great inundation. +The rubbish has been partially cleared, and the bones are used to +decorate the sides of the walls. A British earthwork crowns the summit +of the neighbouring eminence, enclosing, within its irregular rampart, +an area of about 20 acres; and, about a quarter of a mile further, is an +entrenchment nearly square, the ground in the centre of which is +elevated in the form of a cross. + + _Fairs_, Jan. 18, and July 18, for cattle, sheep, and cheese. + +[Sidenote: Formerly a Bishop's Palace.] + +[Sidenote: Extraordinary caverns.] + +[Sidenote: Antediluvian bones.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------------+---------+----------+---------------+ + 28|Barby pa|Northamp |Daventry 6|Welford 11| + 39|Barcheston pa|Warwick |Shipston 2|Kineton 9| + 38|Barcombe pa|Sussex |Lewes 3|Uckfield 6| + 44|Barden pa|N.R. York|Leyburn 3|Richmond 4| + 44|Barden to & chap|W.R. York|Skipton 8|Paitley Brid. 9| + 14|Bardfield,(Great)[A] pa|Essex |Thaxted 5|Dunmow 7| + 14|Bardfield-Saling pa|Essex | 4| 7| + 24|Bardney[B] pa|Lincoln |Lincoln 12|Horncastle 9| + +--+-----------------------+---------+----------+---------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From|Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------------+--------------------+-----+---------+ + 28|Barby pa|Crick 4| 78| 637| + 39|Barcheston pa|L. Compton 5| 83| 198| + 38|Barcombe pa|Brighton 11| 48| 931| + 44|Barden pa|Bedale 8| 231| 106| + 44|Barden to & chap|Otley 13| 218| 214| + 14|Bardfield,(Great)[A] pa|Haverhill 10| 48| 1029| + 14|Bardfield-Saling pa| 10| 48| 359| + 24|Bardney[B] pa|Wragby 9| 136| 1098| + +--+-----------------------+--------------------+-----+---------+ + + +[A] BARDFIELD, (Great.) _Market_, formerly Tuesday (now +disused.)--_Fair_, June 22, for cattle and toys. + + +[B] BARDNEY, anciently Beardanam, is situated in a marsh on the north +bank of the river Witham. An abbey was founded in the time of the +Saxons, prior to the year 641. Here Ethelred, divesting himself of the +splendour of royalty, retired to devote his days to religion, and became +superior of the monastery. King Oswald is said to have been buried here, +but the body was afterwards removed to the church of Gloucester. The +hand was retained by the monks as a relique, to which they ascribed the +power of working miracles, and for a long period imposed upon the +credulity of superstitious pilgrims. In the year 870 the monastery was +burned by the Danes, but was afterwards rebuilt by Gilbert De Gaunt, +Earl of Lincoln, who annexed to it several extensive estates. At the +dissolution its annual revenues were estimated at L429. 7s. + +[Sidenote: King Oswald buried here.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------------+----------+-----------+------------+ + 23|Bardon Park to|Leicester |Leicester 9|Loughboro' 5| + 22|Bardsea to|Lancaster |Ulverston 3|Dalton 5| + 50|Bardsey Isle[A] |Caernarvon|Aberdaron 4|Pwllheli 20| + 45|Bardsey[B] to & pa|W.R. York |Wetherby 5|Leeds 9| + +--+----------------------+----------+-----------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+ + 23|Bardon Park to|Ashby 9| 107| 65| + 22|Bardsea to|Cartmel 8| 276| ...| + 50|Bardsey Isle[A] |Nevin 18| 256| 84| + 45|Bardsey[B] to & pa|Tadcaster 8| 193| 331| + +--+----------------------+----------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BARDSEY ISLE, is near the south-east point of the promontory of +Llyn, in Caernarvonshire: it is of a moderate elevation; in length two +miles, and in breadth one. The third part of its contents of 370 acres, +occupied by a high mountain, affords sustenance to a few sheep and +rabbits. It is about a league distant from the main land, and only +accessible to the mariner on its south-east side, where there is a small +well-sheltered harbour. There is no reptile ever seen on this island, +except the common water-lizard. The soil is clayey, but produces +excellent barley and wheat. The inhabitants are employed in cultivating +the land, and in fishing. The abbot's house is a large stone building, +occupied by several families, and near it is a singular chapel, or +oratory, being a long arched edifice, with a insolated stone altar near +the east end. Dubricius, archbishop of Caerleon, almost worn out with +age, resigned his see to St. David, retired here, and died in 522. He +was interred upon the spot, but such was the veneration paid to his +memory in after ages, that about the year 1107, his remains were +removed, by the procurement of Urban, then Bishop of Llandaff, and +re-interred in the cathedral of that see, of which he had been the first +bishop. St. Dubricius was a man of singular eminence for learning and +piety. He was Archbishop of Caerleon, and Metropolitan of all Wales, in +the time of Aurelius Ambrosius; and prior to this elevation, he taught a +school on the banks of his native river, which was much resorted to from +all Christian countries. + +[Sidenote: No reptiles on this island.] + +[Sidenote: St. Dubricius.] + + +[B] BARDSEY, comprises the township of Bardsey, with Rigton and +Wathersome. Near the church is a mound called Castle Hill, supposed to +have been the site of a Roman fortress. At Bardsey Grange, in this +parish, resided occasionally, and died, Francis Thorpe, the tyrannical +Baron of the Exchequer; but the same house is rendered memorable as the +birth place of the poet Congreve, in 1670. This clever and celebrated +poet, was baptised in the church of this village in the month of +February of the same year. When an infant he was carried to Kilkenny, by +his father, who had the command of the army there. He received his +education in the school of Kilkenny, and from these circumstances it is +probable that persons had fallen into the erroneous impression that +Congreve was a native of Ireland. In 1685 he was admitted into the +university of Dublin. In 1691 he became a member of the society of the +Middle Temple, but soon relinquished the dry study of the Law. At the +age of twenty-one, he published his novel called "Incognita," or, "Love +and Duty Reconciled." Soon afterwards, he brought out the Comedy, called +"The Old Bachelor," of which Dryden says, "he never saw such a first +play in his life;" it was performed in 1793, with the most unbounded +applause. Lord Falkland wrote the prologue. The singular success and +merits of this production, recommended him to the patronage and notice +of the Earl of Halifax, who settled him in an office of six hundred a +year, and during his life patronised him in every way he could. His next +piece was "The Double Dealer." On the death of Queen Mary, in 1693, he +wrote a Pastoral on the occasion, entitled "The Mourning Muse of +Alexis," upon the appearance of which King William, her husband, granted +him an annuity of L100. per annum. In 1695, he produced his Comedy, +called "Love for Love;" and in 1697, the beautiful Tragedy of "The +Mourning Bride." Having lived a high and honorable life amongst the most +celebrated wits and classical men of the age, he died at his house in +Surrey-street, in the Strand, January 19, 1729. On the 26th his corpse +lay in state in the Jerusalem Chamber, at Westminster, and the same +evening was carried into Henry the Seventh's Chapel, and afterwards +buried in the Abbey. His pall was supported by the Duke of Bridgewater, +Earl Godolphin, Lord Cobham, Lord Wilmington, Hon. George Berkeley, +Esq., and Brigadier-General Churchill. Dr. Johnson says, "He has merit +of the highest kind; he is an original writer, who borrowed neither the +models of his plot, nor the manner of his dialogue." And Voltaire +remarks, "That he raised the glory of comedy to a greater height than +any English writer before or since his time." + +[Sidenote: Birth-place of Congreve, the poet.] + +[Sidenote: His works.] + +[Sidenote: Died in Surrey-st., London.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. |Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------------+---------+------------+--------------+ + 36|Bardwell pa|Suffolk |Bury 10|Ixworth 3| + 22|Bare to|Lancaster|Lancaster 3|Burton 10| + 23|Baresley to|Leicester|Leicester 10|Melton 8| + 27|Barford pa|Norfolk |Wymondham 5|Dereham 13| + 39|Barford pa|Warwick |Warwick 3|Stratford 7| + 31|Barford,(Great)[A] pa|Bedford |Bedford 6|St. Neots 7| + 3|Barford,(Great) pa|Oxford |Deddington 2|Banbury 6| + 3|Barford,(Little)[B] pa|Bedford |St. Neots 3|Potton 7| + 31|Barford, St. John's, ch|Oxford |Deddington 3|Banbury 5| + 41|Barford, St. Martin, pa|Wilts |Wilton 3|Salisbury 6| + 43|Barforth to|N.R. York|Richmond 10|Barnard Cas 10| + +--+-----------------------+---------+------------+--------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------------+----------------------+-----+--------+ + 36|Bardwell pa|Thetford 9| 80| 799| + 22|Bare to|K. Lonsdale 14| 243| 110| + 23|Baresley to|M. Sorrel 10| 105| ...| + 27|Barford pa|Norwich 10| 105| 420| + 39|Barford pa|Kineton 8| 92| 748| + 31|Barford,(Great)[A] pa|Potton 7| 53| 731| + 3|Barford,(Great) pa|Chip Norton 11| 71| 350| + 3|Barford,(Little)[B] pa|Biggleswade 9| 54| 176| + 31|Barford, St. John's, ch|Chip Norton 11| 72| 131| + 41|Barford, St. Martin, pa|Hindon 10| 87| 570| + 43|Barforth to|Darlington 9| 243| 128| + +--+-----------------------+----------------------+-----+--------+ + + +[A] BARFORD, (Great). At this place is a piece of land, called White +Bread Close, left, as is generally believed, by one of the Shepherd +family, formerly residents of considerable opulence in the parish, for +the purpose of purchasing loaves of white bread, to be thrown among the +populace from the church porch. This whimsical custom at last became +such a scene of scrambling, fighting, and disorder, that it was +prohibited by the curate, and the money applied towards the purchase of +coals for the poor, at Christmas. The boys, and even men, seemed to have +participated in this sport, the same as at a game at foot-ball, or other +play; and an old gentleman in the adjoining village fully remembers +taking an active part in the scramble, and bearing off the wheaten loaf +in triumph. + +[Sidenote: Curious custom.] + + +[B] BARFORD, (Little), is situated in the hundred of Biggleswade, and is +chiefly celebrated as the birth-place of Rowe, the dramatic poet, who +was born here in the year 1673. His father having designed him for the +study of the law, took him from school at the age of sixteen, and +entered him a student in the Middle Temple. He made considerable +progress, and was called to the bar, but Homer and Virgil had more +charms for him than either Coke or Littleton. He was strongly solicited +by his friends to practice, but nothing could overcome his affection for +the muses; and his play, the "Ambitious Step-mother," having been +received with great applause, he resolved to make poetry his profession. +He had imbibed in his youth the most noble sentiments of liberty, of +which he gave a specimen in his Tragedy of "Tamerlane." This was the +second play that he wrote, and until of late years it was usual to +perform it on the 4th and 5th of November, in commemoration of the +gunpowder treason, and the landing of King William. Mr. Rowe being out +of all employment, went one day to wait on the Earl of Oxford, Lord High +Treasurer of England, when, among other things his Lordship asked him, +whether he understood Spanish. He replied in the negative, and his +Lordship said he would advise him to learn it as soon as possible. Rowe +took his leave, applied himself to the study of that language, and +expecting some lucrative employment, again waited upon him. How great +was his disappointment, when his Lordship, on being informed of his +acquisition, merely exclaimed, "How happy are you, Mr. Rowe, that you +can now enjoy the pleasure of reading "Don Quixote" in the original!" +His death took place on the 6th of December, 1718, in the 45th year of +his age, and he was buried with great funeral pomp, in Westminster +Abbey, where a handsome monument is erected to his memory. + +[Sidenote: Rowe, the Dramatist.] + +[Sidenote: Anecdote.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+--------------------+----------+------------+-------------+ + 21|Barfreston pa|Kent |Wingham 6|Dover 8| + 19|Barham pa|Huntingdon|Kimbolton 6|Alconbury 4| + 21|Barham pa|Kent |Canterbury 7|Dover 9| + 36|Barham pa|Suffolk |Ipswich 5|Needham 5| + 24|Barholm pa|Lincoln |M. Deeping 4|Stamford 6| + 23|Barkby pa|Leicester |Leicester 5|Melton 11| + 23|Barkby-Thorpe to|Leicester | 4| 12| + 4|Barkham pa|Berks |Wokingham 4|Reading 7| + 14|Barking[A] m.t. & pa|Essex |Romford 5|Woolwich 4| + 36|Barking pa|Suffolk |Needham Mt 1|Stow Market 4| + +--+--------------------+----------+------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+--------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + 21|Barfreston pa|Canterbury 10| 65| 114| + 19|Barham pa|Huntingdon 10| 68| 73| + 21|Barham pa|Sandwich 11| 62| 1053| + 36|Barham pa|Debenham 9| 74| 825| + 24|Barholm pa|Bourn 8| 94| 155| + 23|Barkby pa|Houghton 5| 100| 806| + 23|Barkby-Thorpe to| 5| 100| 72| + 4|Barkham pa|Bagshot 11| 35| 247| + 14|Barking[A] m.t. & pa|Ilford 2| 7| 8036| + 36|Barking pa|Ipswich 10| 70| 1884| + +--+--------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BARKING, in the hundred of Beacontree. The name is derived, +according to some writers, from the Saxon words Beorce--a birch tree, +and Ing--a meadow; but the most natural presumption is, that it takes +its name from Berging, signifying a fortification in a meadow, and which +seems to be borne out, as there is an encampment still to be traced, of +the most extensive dimensions, being more than forty-eight acres in the +area; near to which is a spring of fine water, which no doubt supplied +the inmates. In 870, Barking was burnt by the Danes, and the abbey +destroyed, and the nuns either murdered or dispersed. Soon after the +conquest, King William retired to this place, while the Tower of London +was being erected, not deeming it safe to continue in that city; and +here he was visited during the preparation for his coronation, by Earl +Edwin, of Mercia; Morcar, Earl of Northumberland; and many others of the +nobility, who swore fealty to him, on the restoration of their estates. +It is situated on the river Roding, which branches off in two different +streams, and unites with the Thames about two miles distant. Barking +Creek is navigable for ships of 80 tons burden, and the coal and timber, +together with the fishing trade, is carried on to a considerable extent. +About a hundred fishing smacks sail from this town. Near the creek is a +large flour mill, formerly belonging to the abbey; and in the vicinity +of the town are extensive potatoe grounds for the supply of the London +market. Barking is rather a dull town, from the want of a main +thoroughfare; it has the appearance of antiquity stamped upon it, +particularly the market-house, which is an extensive and ancient +building of timber and plaster, of the age of Elizabeth. Here is a +town-hall and work-house. A free quay for landing goods, subject to a +table of regulations, and a spacious new road from the Commercial-road, +through Eastham and Wallend to Barking. The church is dedicated to St. +Margaret, and is a spacious ancient structure, with a lofty embattled +tower at the west end, having a beacon turret at one corner. A +free-school, which now occupies part of the work-house, was founded by +Sir James Campbell, in 1641, who bequeathed a sum of L666. 13s. 4d. for +that purpose. John Fowke, Esq., bequeathed certain lands for the +maintenance of eight boys in Christ's Hospital, two of whom are chosen +from this parish. The importance formerly attached to the town of +Barking was almost entirely to be attributed to the magnificent abbey +that was established here in the year 670, by Erkenwald, Bishop of +London, for nuns of the Benedictine order: it was dedicated to the +Virgin Mary. This abbey was governed by a succession of Abbesses, of +noble, and even royal descent After the destruction of the establishment +by the Danes, in the year 870, it was again rebuilt in a style of +greater splendour than before, and on the death of King Edgar, in 970, +his queen became Abbess. From the earliest period to the time of its +dissolution, it may be said to have been a seminary for the principal +gentry of England. Its revenues amounted, at the suppression of the +religious houses, to L1084. 6s. 2-3/4d. Destruction has done its worst +to this beautiful abbey, for at present little or nothing remains but +the gateway, an interesting object, and in good preservation; over which +is a room, called the Chapel of the Holy Ghost. This gateway was +denominated the fire-bell gate, from its having anciently contained the +curfew; it is a square embattled structure, with an octagonal turret at +one of the angles. The arch of the entrance is finely pointed, and +enriched with deeply receding mouldings; above is a canopied niche, +under a fine gothic window of three lights. Among the ruins of the abbey +were discovered a fibula, and a gold ring, on which were engraved, the +Salutation of the Virgin Mary, and the initials I.M. The tyranny +exercised over the tenants of this manor by the fraternity, would almost +create a feeling of surprise in our present liberal and enlightened age, +were they not perfectly well known in a thousand other instances. The +manor of Clayhall was held under the Abbess and convent of Barking, by +the following services: viz. that every tenant should come in person to +the Abbey Church, on the vigil of St. Ethelburg the Virgin, and there +attend and guard the high altar, from the first hours of Vespers till +nine the next morning; and that he should be ready at all times, with a +horse and a man, to attend the Abbess and her steward, when going upon +the business of the convent, any where within the four seas. And, +lastly, that the Abbess should have by way of herriot, upon the death of +every tenant, his best horse and accoutrements: these services, however, +did not exempt them from the quit rents. Besides the above tenure, there +were other vexatious contingencies; viz. one (Robert Gerard) was among +other services, to gather a full measure of nuts, called a pybot, four +of which should make a bushel; to go a long journey on foot once a year +to Colchester, Chelmsford, Ely, or the like distances, on the business +of the convent, carrying a pack; and other shorter distances, such as +Brentford, &c., and maintaining himself upon the road. He was to pay a +fine upon the marriage of his daughter, if she married beyond the limits +of the manor. If his daughter had an illegitimate child, he was to make +the best terms he could with the Abbess, for the fine called Kyldwyte. +It appears also, that he could not even sell his ox fed by himself, +without the Abbess's permission. Some of the tenants, according to +Blount, were obliged to watch and guard thieves in the Abbess's prison. +A few miles distant, in a glade in Hainhault Forest, formerly stood an +oak, famed through many centuries, and known by the name of Fairlop Oak. +Its age is traced by the traditions of the country half way through the +Christian era. Part of this noble tree has been converted into the +pulpit of St. Pancras new church. Its rough fluted stem was 36 feet in +circumference, and about a yard from the ground, divided into eleven +immense arms; yet not in the horizontal manner of an oak, but rather +that of a beech. Beneath its shade, which formerly overspread an area of +three hundred feet in circuit, an annual fair was held on the 2nd of +July, and no booth was suffered to be raised beyond the extent of its +boughs. The fair is still continued on the same spot the first Friday in +July. + + _Market_ disused.--_Fair_, October 22, for toys. It lies within the + three-penny post delivery. + +[Sidenote: Origin of its name.] + +[Sidenote: Burnt by the Danes.] + +[Sidenote: Once a town of importance.] + +[Sidenote: Singular services by which the manor of Clayhall was held.] + +[Sidenote: Fairlop oak.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-------------------+---------+--------------+--------------+ + 45|Barkisland to|W.R. York|Halifax 4|Huddersfield 8| + 23|Barkston pa|Leicester|Melton 12|Belvoir Cas. 4| + 24|Barkstone pa|Lincoln |Grantham 4|Sleaford 9| + 46|Barkstone Ash to|W.R. York|Tadcaster 6|Abberford 5| + 18|Barkway to & pa|Herts |Hertford 15|Puckeridge 8| + 24|Barkwith, East pa|Lincoln |Wragby 3|M. Raisin 8| + 24|Barkwith, West pa|Lincoln | 3| 8| + 35|Barlaston pa|Stafford |Stone 4|Newcastle 6| + 38|Barlavington pa|Sussex |Petworth 5|Chichester 12| + 10|Barlborough pa|Derby |Chesterfield 8|Worksop 7| + 46|Barlby chap|E.R. York|Selby 2|York 13| + 23|Barleston chap|Leicester|Bosworth 3|Leicester 12| + 18|Barley pa|Herts |Barkway 3|Cambridge 14| + 22|Barley to|Lancaster|Colne 5|Clitheroe 5| + 32|Barleythorpe chap|Rutland |Oakham 2|Melton 9| + 14|Barling pa|Essex |Prittlewell 5|Rochford 5| + 24|Barlings pa|Lincoln |Lincoln 7|Wragby 4| + 46|Barlow to|W.R. York|Selby 3|Snaith 6| + 10|Barlow, Great chap|Derby |Chesterfield 4|Dronfield 3| + 10|Barlow, Little to|Derby | 5| 3| + +--+-------------------+---------+--------------+--------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-------------------+------------------------+-----+--------+ + 45|Barkisland to|Rochdale 13| 196| 2292| + 23|Barkston pa|Bingham 7| 115| 297| + 24|Barkstone pa|Folkingham 11| 114| 430| + 46|Barkstone Ash to|York 15| 185| 265| + 18|Barkway to & pa|Cambridge 17| 35| 1108| + 24|Barkwith, East pa|Louth 12| 147| 187| + 24|Barkwith, West pa| 11| 146| 113| + 35|Barlaston pa|Cheadle 8| 145| 514| + 38|Barlavington pa|Arundel 8| 54| 111| + 10|Barlborough pa|Sheffield 17| 150| 713| + 46|Barlby chap|Howden 12| 183| 348| + 23|Barleston chap|Ashby 9| 109| 582| + 18|Barley pa|Ware 16| 37| 704| + 22|Barley to|Burnley 5| 217| 707| + 32|Barleythorpe chap|Stamford 13| 96| ...| + 14|Barling pa|Southend 6| 45| 317| + 24|Barlings pa|Bardney 8| 140| 280| + 46|Barlow to|Howden 8| 179| 225| + 10|Barlow, Great chap|Sheffield 10| 154| 581| + 10|Barlow, Little to| 10| 155| 58| + +--+-------------------+------------------------+-----+--------+ + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------------+---------+-------------+-------------+ + 46|Barmby on the M. chap|E.R. York|Howden 5|Selby 6| + 46|Barnby on Don to & pa|W.R. York|Doncaster 6|Thorne 7| + 46|Barmby on Moor, to & p|E.R. York|Pocklington 2|York 11| + 53|Barmele to|Flint |Chester 7|Holywell 12| + 27|Barmer pa|Norfolk |Burnham 6|Fakenham 7| + 21|Barming[A] pa|Kent |Maidstone 3|Tonbridge 11| + 55|Barmouth[B] to|Merioneth|Dolgelly 10|Harleigh 11| + 13|Barmpton to|Durham |Darlington 3|Stockton 9| + 13|Barmston to|Durham |Sunderland 5|Durham 10| + 43|Barmston pa|E.R. York|Bridlington 7|Driffield 10| + 39|Barnacle ham|Warwick |Nuneaton 5|Coventry 7| + 30|Barnack pa|Northamp |Wansford 4|Stamford 4| + 22|Barnaker to|Lancaster|Garstang 3|Lancaster 12| + 13|Barnard Castle[C] t & p|Durham |Middleton 10|Darlington 17| + +--+-----------------------+---------+-------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + 46|Barmby on the M. chap|Snaith 6| 180| 525| + 46|Barnby on Don to & pa| 9| 168| 617| + 46|Barmby on Moor, to & p|M. Weighton 8| 210| 440| + 53|Barmele to|Flint 8| 196| 115| + 27|Barmer pa|Lynn 18| 115| 43| + 21|Barming[A] pa|Chatham 13| 33| 565| + 55|Barmouth[B] to|Towyn 11| 222 |1980| + 13|Barmpton to|Durham 18| 244| 90| + 13|Barmston to|Newcastle 7| 269| 73| + 43|Barmston pa|Hornsea 8| 200| 223| + 39|Barnacle ham|Rugby 12| 95| 219| + 30|Barnack pa|Peterboro' 11| 88| 812| + 22|Barnaker to|Preston 15| 232| 519| + 13|Barnard Castle[C] t & p|Staindrop 6| 246| 4430| + +--+-----------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BARMING. Of this village the learned antiquarian, Mark Noble, was +rector. His principal works were a history of the College of Arms, a +Genealogical History of the Royal Families of Europe, Memoirs of the +Protectorate House of Cromwell; and, also, of the illustrious house of +Medici. On St. Thomas's Day there is an annual solicitation for charity, +and with the money raised loaves of bread are purchased, and distributed +to the resident poor. Great quantities of hops, cherries, and filberts, +are grown in this parish. + +[Sidenote: Mark Noble.] + + +[B] BARMOUTH, near the conflux of the river Maw, or Mawddach, is a +village singularly situated; the houses are disposed, either among the +sand, in a low situation, or at different heights on the side of a huge +rock, like a part of the city of Edinburgh, and are said to resemble the +town of Gibraltar. These houses form eight tiers, to which there is no +approach, but by steps cut in the rock. The floors of one row are about +level with the tops of the chimnies immediately in front; so that a +person standing at his door may look down the chimnies of the +neighbourhood below. The first range regales the second with its smoke, +the second the third, &c. till we arrive at the uppermost, which, in a +westerly wind, takes the mixed perfume of all. Barmouth is the port of +Merionethshire, not far from which the river Mawddach has its +commencement. "Proceeding along the banks of this river towards +Dolgelly," says Mr. Bingley, "when it was high water, the whole bed of +the river being filled, made the different landscapes in the scene +appear truly picturesque. The first two miles which lay along, what the +inhabitants of Barmouth call, the Beach, formed the most interesting +part of the journey. In the composition of the views, scarcely any thing +appeared wanting; there was every requisite of mountain and vale, wood, +water, meadows, and rocks, arranged in beautiful order. Beyond the +beach, the road winds at a little distance from the river, among the low +mountains; and from different stations, I had views of the most elegant +and picturesque landscapes, the river partly hidden by intervening +mountains. This stream is much diminished in width and depth: at present +it will not admit so much as a pleasure-boat to reach Dolgelly, which +obliges company to walk three-quarters of a mile to the town." + +[Sidenote: A very curiously built town.] + + +[C] BARNARD CASTLE. The castle from which the town appears to have +derived its name, was founded by Barnard, son of Guy Baliol, who +accompanied William the Conqueror to England, and to whom William Rufus +granted the noble forests of Teesdale and Marwood. Edward the First, +determined to mortify the Bishop of Durham and to abridge his power; he, +therefore, gave this castle to Guy Beauchamp, Earl of Warwick, in whose +family it continued for five generations. It afterwards came to the +crown, and the tyrant Richard III. who took very great delight in this +place, contributed much to its beauty by the most tasteful +embellishments; his armorial bearings still appear, not only on the +castle but over many parts of the town, and it has been a crown domain +ever since. Hutchinson in his history of the county of Durham, describes +the remains of the castle as covering about six acres and three quarters +of ground. The parts which were of chief strength, stand on the very +brink of a steep rock, about eighty feet above the level of the river +Tees, commanding a most beautiful prospect up the river. The area on the +side of the market-place, appears not to have had any communication with +the chief strongholds and bulwarks of the fortress, and is separated +from the interior buildings by a deep fosse which surrounds the rest of +the castle. In an adjoining ground called the Flatts, is a large +reservoir cut in swampy ground; water was collected and conveyed to the +castle in pipes, to supply the garrison and cattle enclosed within the +walls of the outer areas in times of public danger. This area is now a +pasture for sheep, and other parts enclosed by the walls have been +converted into orchards. + + _Market_, Wednesday.--_Fairs_, Wednesday in Easter and Whitsun Week, + St. James's Day, and July 25, for horses, cattle, and + sheep.--_Bankers_, W. Skinner and Co. draw on Barclay and + Co.--_Inns_, King's Head, and Rose and Crown.--_Mail_ arrives 6.40 + morning; departs 2.40 afternoon. + +[Sidenote: Guy Baliol.] + + Map| Names of Places.| County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------+----------+--------------+-----------+ + 36|Barnardiston pa|Suffolk |Clare 4|Haverhill 4| + 45|Barnbow to|W.R. York |Leeds 6|Tadcaster 9| + 45|Barnbrough[A] pa|W.R. York |Doncaster 7|Rotherham 8| + 36|Barnby pa|Suffolk |Beccles 4|Lowestoft 7| + 43|Barnby to|N.R. York |Whitby 5|Guisboro 16| + 30|Barnby-on-Moor to|Nottingham|East Retford 3|Bawtry 5| + +--+-----------------+----------+--------------+-----------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places.| Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------+-------------------------+-----+-----+ + 36|Barnardiston pa|Newmarket 12| 59| 206| + 45|Barnbow to|Abberford 4| 190| | + 45|Barnbrough[A] pa|Barnsley 10| 167| 520| + 36|Barnby pa|Bungay 11| 111| 303| + 43|Barnby to|Scarborough 23| 238| 224| + 30|Barnby-on-Moor to|Blyth 3| 148| 206| + +--+-----------------+-------------------------+-----+-----+ + + +[A] BARNBROUGH. The church is dedicated to Saint Peter, and contains a +rude painting commemorative of "a serious contest that took place +between a man and a wild cat." This conflict, which every body in +Barnbrough firmly believes, is said to have occurred about the middle of +the fifteenth century, between Percival Cresacre, lord of the manor, and +a wild cat o' mountain. He is reported to have been attacked in one of +the little woods in the neighbourhood, by this furious animal, and a +running fight was kept up till they reached the church porch, where the +mortal combat ended in the death of both. That some such circumstance +did occur, is conjectured from the crest which the family afterwards +adopted, viz. a cat o' mountain, which is still to be seen on the tower +of the church; and the tradition is said to be further confirmed by the +figure of an animal at the foot of the oak statue of this Cresacre, and +also a rubiginous stone in the pavement of the porch of the church. We +have many evidences in history that cats were beasts of chase, +particularly in the charter of Ranulph Piperking, granted by Edward the +Confessor:-- + + Hart and hind, doe and bock, + Fox and cat, hare and brock. + +and again, + + Four greyhounds and six raches, + For hare and fox and wild cates. + +In the church is an ancient monument of Alicia Cresacre, wife of the +above gentleman, who died in 1450, on which is carved in old text:-- + + Our bodys in stonys lye full still, + Our saulys in wandyr at Godys will. + +In the north chancel is the monument of Percival Cresacre, a richly +decorated altar-tomb under a flat arch, at the crown of which is the +family arms, viz. three lions rampant, purple, on a gold shield. The +effigies of Cresacre is in fine preservation, composed of carved oak, +and representing a knight in a suite of plate armour, with his arms +painted on a shield, and an animal (supposed to be a lion) at his feet. +His sword which hung from his belt has been taken away, and both +monuments are decorated with the favorite device of the family, a rosary +of beads. + +[Sidenote: Contest between the lord of the manor and a wild cat.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. |Number of Miles From | + +--+--------------------+----------+----------+----------+ + 30|Barnby-in-Willows pa|Nottingham|Newark 4|Lincoln 16| + 37|Barnes pa|Surrey |Kingston 6|Chiswick 2| + 37|Barn-Elms[A] ham|Surrey | ... 6| ... 2| + +--+--------------------+----------+----------+----------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+--------------------+---------------------+-----+----+ + 30|Barnby-in-Willows pa|Grantham 14| 124| 237| + 37|Barnes pa|Wandsworth 3| 5|1417| + 37|Barn-Elms[A] ham| ... 3| 5| | + +--+--------------------+---------------------+-----+----+ + + +[A] BARN-ELMS. On the adjoining common stood the house in which the +members of the celebrated Kit Cat Club assembled. Their original place +of meeting was in London, but Jacob Tonson, the bookseller, who was +their secretary, caused it to be transferred to a house belonging to +himself, at Barn-Elms, and built a handsome room for their +accommodation. The portrait of each member was painted by Sir Godfrey +Kneller, but the apartment not being sufficiently large to receive +half-length pictures, a shorter canvas was adopted, and hence proceeded +the technical term of Kit Cat size. We give a further account of this +club from the graphic pen of Sir Richard Phillips, in his "Morning's +Walk from London to Kew," 1817. "A lane in the north-west corner of the +common brought me to Barn-Elms, where now resides a Mr. Hoare, a banker, +of London. The family were from home, and I had some difficulty to gain +admittance, the servants knowing nothing either of the club, or its +former occupant. A walk covered with docks, thistles, nettles, and high +grass, led from the remains of a gateway in the garden wall to the door +which opened into the building. Ah! thought I, through this desolate +avenue, the finest geniuses in England daily proceeded to meet their +friends. Yet, within a century, how changed--how deserted--how +revolting! A cold chill seized me as the man unfastened the decayed +door, and I beheld the once elegant hall filled with cobwebs, a fallen +ceiling, and accumulating rubbish. The door on the left led to a +spacious, and once superb, staircase--now in ruins. The entire building, +for want of ventilation, having become food for the fungus, called +dry-rot, the timbers had lost its cohesive powers. I ascended the +staircase, therefore, with a degree of danger to which my conductor +would not expose himself, but was well requited for my pains. Here I +found the Kit-Cat Club-room, nearly as it existed in the days of its +glory. It is 18 feet high, and 40 feet long, by 20 wide. The mouldings +and ornaments were in the most superb fashion of its age, but the whole +was falling to pieces from the effects of the dry-rot. My attention was +chiefly attracted by the faded cloth-hangings of the room, whose red +colour once set off the famous portraits of the club that hung around +it. Their marks and sizes were still visible, and their numbers and +names remained, as written in chalk for the guidance of the hanger. Thus +was I, as it were, brought into contact with Addison and Steele, and +Congreve, and Garth, and Dryden, and with many hereditary nobles, +remembered only because they were patrons of those natural nobles. I +read their names aloud--I invoked their departed spirits--I was appalled +by the echo of my own voice. The holes in the floor, the forest of +cobwebs in the windows, and a swallow's nest in the corner of the +ceiling, proclaimed that I was viewing a vision of the dreamers of a +past age; that I saw realized before me the speaking vanities of the +anxious career of man. On rejoining Mr. Hoare's servant in the hall +below, he informed me that his master intended to pull the building +down, and form of it a riding-house. I learn that this design has since +been executed. The Kit-Cat pictures were painted early in the eighteenth +century, and about the year 1710 were brought to this spot, but the room +I have been describing was not built till ten or fifteen years +afterwards. They were 42 in number, and are now in the possession of a +Mr. Baker, of Hertingford-bury, where I lately saw them splendidly +lodged, and in fine preservation. It may be proper to observe, that the +house of Mr. Hoare was not the house of Mr. Tonson, and that Mr. +Tonson's house stood nearer to the Kit-Cat club-rooms, having a few +years since been taken down." A person died in this place, leaving in +his will an annual sum, to be laid out in roses to be planted on his +grave. The spot is distinguished by a stone tablet on the outside of the +wall of the church, enclosed by pales, with some rose-trees planted on +each side of it. This tablet is dedicated to the memory of Edward Rose, +citizen of London, who died in 1653, and left L20. to the poor of +Barnes, for the purchase of an acre of land, on condition that the pales +should be kept up, and the rose-trees preserved. + +[Sidenote: Kit Cat Club house.] + +[Sidenote: As described by Sir Richard Phillips in 1817.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------------+---------+-------------+------------+ + 18|Barnet-Chipping[A] m.t.|Herts |St. Albans 10|Whetstone 2| + 18|Barnet, East pa|Herts |Enfield 5|Highgate 6| + 25|Barnet, Friern[B] pa|Middlesex|Finchley 2|Barnet 3| + 24|Barnetby-le-Wold pa|Lincoln |Glanford-Br 6|Caistor 7| + 27|Barney pa|Norfolk |Fakenham 6|Walsingham 5| + 36|Barnham vil|Suffolk |Thetford 3|Ixworth 7| + 38|Barnham pa|Sussex |Arundel 5|Chichester 7| + 27|Barnham-Broom pa|Norfolk |Wymondham 5|Norwich 9| + +--+-----------------------+---------+-------------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------------+----------+------------+-----+------+ + 18|Barnet-Chipping[A] m.t.|Hatfield 9| 11| 2369| + 18|Barnet, East pa|Barnet 3| 10| 547| + 25|Barnet, Friern[B] pa|Hornsey 4| 9| 543| + 24|Barnetby-le-Wold pa|Barton 10| 162| 532| + 27|Barney pa|Holt 7| 115| 263| + 36|Barnham vil|Bury 10| 81| 384| + 38|Barnham pa|Bognor 3| 60| 148| + 27|Barnham-Broom pa|Hingham 6| 105| 463| + +--+-----------------------+-----------------------+-----+------+ + + +[A] BARNET. This small busy town occupies an elevated situation on the +high north road; and near this place was fought, in the year 1471, the +famous battle between the houses of York and Lancaster, which terminated +in the death of the Earl of Warwick, and established King Edward the +Fourth upon the throne. An obelisk was erected by Sir Jeremy Sambrook, +in memory of the battle in the year 1740. In the church is an altar +monument in commemoration of Thomas Ravensworth, Esquire, whose effigy, +in a recumbent position, is represented on the tomb in veined marble. He +died in 1630. Several others of his family are also buried here; and +among these, James, his eldest son, who erected and endowed an +alms-house, or hospital in Barnet, "for six poor ancient women, being +widows or maidens, inhabitants of the town; and neither common beggars, +common drunkards, back-biters, tale-bearers, common scolds, thieves or +other like persons of infamous life, or evil name or repute; or +vehemently suspected of sorcerie, witchcraft, or charming, or guilty of +perjury: nor any ideot or lunatic are admitted." The annual value of the +original endowment is now about L45.; besides which, the trustees have a +further income of L30. annually, arising from other sources. Another +alms-house for six poor widows, was built and endowed about the year +1723, under the will of John Garrett, Gent., who bequeathed L800. for +that purpose. Near the race ground, on Barnet Common, is a mineral +spring, of a mild purgative nature, that was discovered about the middle +of the 17th century, and was formerly in much repute. A few years ago a +subscription was made for arching it over and erecting a pump. The town +is at present governed by a presiding magistrate, a high constable and +subordinate officers. The inhabitants of this township enjoy a very +extensive common right over the adjoining wastes and chace. Between +Barnet and South Mims, an extensive improvement has been effected in the +road, which was a series of angular turnings and unnecessary hills, to +an extent which renders it surprising how such glaring imperfections +were suffered to exist, when a sufficiently direct line could be +obtained. + + _Market_, Monday. _Fairs_ April 8, 9, 10, linen drapery, mercery, + toys, &c. The harvest fair or Welsh fair, September 4, 5, Welsh + cattle and horses; Sept. 6, mercery, &c. and sometimes a few horses, + pigs, &c. The Leeds Mail arrives 9.11 evening, departs 7.48 evening. + The Glasgow mail arrives 9.20 evening; departs 4.18 morning. _Inns_, + Duke of Wellington, Green Man, and Red Lion. + +[Sidenote: Battle between the houses of York and Lancaster.] + +[Sidenote: Mineral spring.] + + +[B] BARNET, (Friern). John Walker, the author of a celebrated +dictionary, was a native of this place, and was born in the year 1732. +About the year 1767, he joined with a Mr. Usher in setting up a school +at Kensington; this speculation not succeeding he removed to London, +where he gave lectures on elocution. It is said that in his early youth +he studied the art, intending to make the stage his profession, although +his very questionable success induced him to adopt another pursuit. Mr. +Walker was an amiable as well as a learned man; he was the author of +several elementary works: such as "The Rhetorical Grammar," "Elements of +Elocution," "Key to the correct pronunciation of Greek, Latin, and +Scriptural names," and a "Rhyming Dictionary." He died at his house in +Tottenham Court Road, August 1, 1807. This parish includes the hamlet of +Colney Hatch, half of Whetstone, and a part of Finchley Common. + +[Sidenote: Birth place of Walker, author of the pronouncing dictionary.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+---------------------+----------+--------------+------------+ + 7|Barnhill ham|Chester |Chester 10|Tarporley 8| + 36|Barningham pa|Suffolk |Ixworth 5|Botesdale 7| + 44|Barningham pa & to|N.R. York |Greta Bridge 2|Richmond 10| + 27|Barningham, Little pa|Norfolk |Aylsham 6|Holt 6| + 27|Barningham pa|Norfolk | 8| 5| + 27|Barningham Winter pa|Norfolk | 6| 7| + 24|Barnoldby-le-Beck pa|Lincoln |Grimsby 6|Caistor 8| + 45|Barnoldswick pa & to|W.R. York |Colne 5|Skipton 6| + 7|Barnsham to|Chester |Knutsford 6|Middlewich 7| + 15|Barnsley pa|Gloucester|Cirencester 4|Burford 13| + 45|Barnsley[A] m.t. & to|W.R. York |York 39|Rotherham 13| + 11|Barnstaple[B] bo.& mt|Devon |Exeter 38|S. Molton 12| + +--+---------------------+----------+--------------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+---------------------+-------------------------+-----+------+ + 7|Barnhill ham|Malpas 4| 172| | + 36|Barningham pa|Thetford 9| 82| 514| + 44|Barningham pa & to|Barnard Cas. 5| 238| 550| + 27|Barningham, Little pa|Cromer 8| 119| 227| + 27|Barningham pa| 5| 121| 42| + 27|Barningham Winter pa| 8| 120| 114| + 24|Barnoldby-le-Beck pa|Louth 16| 165| 232| + 45|Barnoldswick pa & to|Clitheroe 10| 223| 2724| + 7|Barnsham to|Congleton 8| 170| | + 15|Barnsley pa|Fairford 6| 86| 318| + 45|Barnsley[A] m.t. & to|Hudderfield 17| 172| 10330| + 11|Barnstaple[B] bo.& mt|Ilfracomb 10| 193| 6840| + +--+---------------------+-------------------------+-----+------+ + + +[A] BARNSLEY. This large market town is built chiefly of stone, but +being surrounded by coal pits and iron works, the smoke from which +obscures the air, it is generally known by the name of Black Barnsley. +The black glass bottles made here are of excellent quality, and the +manufacture of linen is carried on to a great extent. Here also is made +the best wire in the kingdom for needles. The town is seated on the side +of a hill; the trade and population have considerably increased since +the completion of the navigable canal, by means of which communications +are opened with Wakefield, and all parts of the kingdom. The land in the +vicinity of this town is highly distinguished for its fertility; the +manor is possessed by the Duke of Leeds. + + _Market_, Wednesday.--_Fairs_, Wednesday before Feb. 28, horned + cattle and swine; May 12, ditto; October 10, ditto, horses, and + cheese.--_Mail_ arrives 2.55 afternoon; departs 11.31 + night.--_Bankers_, Becket and Co., draw on Glyn and Co.--_Inns_, + King's Head, and White Bear. + +[Sidenote: The trade.] + + +[B] BARNSTAPLE is said to derive its name from Bar, which in the ancient +British signified the mouth of a river; and the Saxon word Staple, a +mart. It is situated in the hundred of Braunton, and returns two members +to parliament. The town appears to have been incorporated by Henry I., +yet it retains some traces of feudal jurisdiction; a number of common +burgesses claiming a right to vote with the corporate officers for +members of parliament. The L10. householders are about 607; the +returning officer is the mayor, who with two bailiffs, two aldermen, +twenty-two common councilmen, and other officers form the corporation. +Barnstaple is one of the neatest and most respectable towns in the +county; it lies on the eastern bank of the river Taw, in a broad and +fertile vale, bounded by a semi-circular range of hills. The Taw here +spreads to a considerable breadth, but from the great accumulation of +sand, the port is shallow, and vessels of more than 200 tons are not +able to enter. Over the river is a bridge of sixteen arches, which is +said to have been built by one of the Tracys, at the time that family +were lords of the manor. The streets are spacious and regular, and the +buildings generally good. The town, indeed, boasts some of the marks of +a metropolis; there are balls every fortnight, and a regular theatre, +and nothing but a good pavement is wanted to make it highly agreeable. A +noble quay extends some way along the river, terminated by a handsome +piazza, over the centre of which stands the statue of Queen Anne, with +an inscription, testifying to the loyalty of Robert Rolle, of +Stevenstone, in this county, the erector. The woollen trade formerly +carried on here with considerable spirit, greatly increased the wealth +of the town, and enabled its inhabitants to erect a number of very +respectable houses: this trade has of late failed, but the manufacture +of baize, silk stockings and waistcoat pieces, still gives life to the +place. Besides this source of wealth and population, the beauty of the +surrounding country, and the cheapness of provisions, have induced many +respectable families to reside here entirely; a circumstance which +renders Barnstaple the most genteel town in the north of Devon. Here is +a celebrated Grammar School, which has been founded about three +centuries, and is famous for having educated a number of distinguished +men; among whom were John Jewel, Bishop of Salisbury: his Theological +antagonist, Thomas Harding, Professor at Louvain: the poet Gay, and the +learned Dr. Musgrave. Bishop Jewel was a learned divine, who lived in +the reigns of the last sovereigns of the house of Tudor, and was born +near Ilfracombe, in 1522. Having acquired the rudiments of his learning +in this school, he was removed to Merton College, Oxford. He was a most +zealous and able champion of the Christian faith; and was indefatigable +in the pursuit of knowledge, even at the expense of his health, which +was materially injured by the closeness of his application. About the +year 1551, he obtained the rectory of Sunningwell, in Berkshire, where +he was much beloved for his zeal and assiduity as a parish priest. When +Queen Mary succeeded her brother Edward, Jewel was deprived of an office +he held in the university; and, notwithstanding he subscribed to a +confession of faith drawn up by the Catholics, yet suspicions were +entertained of his sincerity, and fearing he should be prosecuted as an +heretic, he withdrew from Oxford, and made his escape to the continent. +On the death of Queen Mary, Jewel returned to England, and was received +very favorably by Queen Elizabeth, who raised him to the bishoprick of +Salisbury, in the year 1560. From this time until the day of his death, +he was principally engaged in his pastoral duties, and in the defence +and support of the Protestant faith. He died September 1571. The +admirable moralist and poet, Gay, was also educated in this school; he +was the composer of "The Beggar's Opera," the notion of which appears to +have been afforded by Swift. The purpose of this singular performance, +was to bring into ridicule the Italian Opera, and it is not easy to +define the mixture of pathos and ridicule which distinguishes this +remarkable production. His celebrated "Fables," written for the +instruction of the Duke of Cumberland, have been the means of +unqualified delight to millions. His first poem, entitled "Rural +Sports," and dedicated to Mr. Pope, gained him the friendship of that +poet. The year following he was appointed Secretary to the Duchess of +Monmouth: at this time he printed his "Trivia," in the composition of +which he was assisted by Swift. He died of an inflammation of the +bowels, in 1732, (sincerely lamented by all who knew him,) and was +buried in Westminster Abbey, where his monument exhibits an epitaph by +Pope, which is written with tasteful tenderness. + + _Market_, Friday.--_Fairs_, September 19; Friday before April 21; + second Friday in December, for cattle. These are considerable fairs, + but are called great markets, as there is no charter to hold fairs on + those days.--_Mail_ arrives 7.0 morning; departs 5.0 + afternoon.--_Bankers_, Pyke, Law and Co.; draw on Barclay and Co.; + Drake and Co. draw on Esdaile and Co.--_Inns_, Fortescue Arms; Golden + Lion; Kings Arms. + +[Sidenote: Incorporated by Henry I.] + +[Sidenote: Amusements, &c.] + +[Sidenote: Eminent men educated here.] + +[Sidenote: Gay, the Poet, born here.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County.| Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------------+--------+-----------+-----------+ + 7|Barnston to|Chester |Park Gate 4|Liverpool 5| + 14|Barnston pa|Essex | Dunmow 2|Braintree 8| + 7|Barnton to|Chester |Northwich 2|Knutsford 8| + 28|Barnwell-All-Sts.[A] pa|Northamp|Oundle 3|Thrapston 5| + +--+-----------------------+--------+-----------+-----------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------------+-------------+------+-----+-----+ + 7|Barnston to|Chester 14| 198| 112| + 14|Barnston pa|Chelmsford 10| 38| 215| + 7|Barnton to|Warrington 9| 175| 730| + 28|Barnwell-All-Sts.[A] pa|Stamford 18| 78| 126| + +--+-----------------------+--------------------+-----+-----+ + + +[A] BARNWELL derives its name from some wells, which in the age of +superstition, were widely famed for the miraculous cures they performed +in diseases of children. Sacred veneration was at length paid them, and +pilgrims from distant parts resorted hither to adore the spirit which +infused such wonderful virtues into the waters. A castle was erected +here in the reign of Henry I., by Reginald le Moine, and became +afterwards the baronial residence of the family of the Montagues. The +remains of this once magnificent structure consist of four circular +massy bastion towers, each forming an angle of a quadrangular court, +inclosed by walls three feet thick; the grand gateway on the south side +is flanked by similar towers. The whole forms a fine and curious ruin, +and is a rare specimen of the early Norman castellated form of +building. + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------------+----------+------------+-------------+ + 28|Barnwell, St. And pa|Northamp |Oundle 2|Thrapston 6| + 15|Barnwood pa|Gloucester|Gloucester 2|Cheltenham 8| + 35|Barr, Great[A] pa|Stafford |Walsall 4|Wednesbury 4| + 35|Barr, Perry ham|Stafford | 5|Birmingham 5| + 29|Barrasford to|Northumb. |Hexham 7|Bellingham 10| + 6|Barrington pa|Cambridge |Cambridge 6|Caxton 8| + 34|Barrington pa|Somerset |Ilminster 4|Ilchester 10| + 4|Barrington, Great[B] pa|Berks&Glos|Burford 4|Northleach 7| + 15|Barrington, Little pa|Gloucester|Burford 4|Stow 8| + 10|Barrow pa|Derby |Derby 6|Kegworth 12| + 15|Barrow to|Gloucester|Cheltenham 4|Tewkesbury 5| + 29|Barrow to|Northumb. |Allenton 5|Wooler 16| + 32|Barrow chap|Rutland |Oakham 5|Stamford 12| + +--+-----------------------+----------+------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------------+----------------------+------+-------+ + 28|Barnwell, St. And pa|Stamford 17| 79| 284| + 15|Barnwood pa|Painswick 6| 104| 419| + 35|Barr, Great[A] pa|Birmingham 5| 114| 779| + 35|Barr, Perry ham|Sutton 3| 114| 777| + 29|Barrasford to|Corbridge 9| 284| 232| + 6|Barrington pa|Royston 8| 46| 485| + 34|Barrington pa|Crewkherne 8| 134| 468| + 4|Barrington, Great[B] pa|Stow 8| 76| 532| + 15|Barrington, Little pa|Northleach 7| 76| 162| + 10|Barrow pa|Burton 10| 125| 584| + 15|Barrow to|Gloucester 7| 98| 238| + 29|Barrow to|Bellingham 18| 314| 14| + 32|Barrow chap|Cottesmore 2| 101| 144| + +--+-----------------------+----------------------+------+-------+ + + +[A] GREAT BARR is an agreeable village, which has long been the property +of the Scott family, who have here one of the finest mansions in the +county. This seat stands in a beautiful valley, affording the most +delightful prospects of hill and dale, varied by wood and water. Shady +walks and rustic seats furnish the most attractive conveniences for the +promenade. One object in particular fixes the attention; it is an urn +near the flower garden, to the memory of Miss Mary Dolman, the cousin of +Shenstone, whose elegant pen supplied a beautiful tribute in Latin. The +summit of Barr Beacon, which is 653 feet in height, was the spot from +whence the Druids gave notice, by watch-fires, of their periodical +sacrifices; and it was used both by the Saxons and the Danes, as a +beacon to alarm the country in times of danger. The chapel of the +village is of remarkable beauty; its eastern window contains a painting +on glass by Mr. Eginton, who has improved upon the design of the Rev. +Mr. Peter's "Spirit of a Child." + +[Sidenote: Barr Beacon, 653 feet high.] + + +[B] GREAT BARRINGTON is a parish containing about 1000 acres, including +some portion of Oxfordshire within its limits, as well as a small tract +belonging to Berkshire. Previous to the conquest, the manor was held by +Earl Harold; the present owner is Lord Dynevor, Lord Lieut. and Cust. +Rot. of Carmarthen. Barrington church appears to have been erected about +the time of Henry VII. Beneath one of the windows of the aisle are the +monument and effigies of Captain Edward Bray, grandfather of Sir Giles +Bray, lord of the manor, who is represented in armour, with a ruff round +his neck and a sword girt on the "right" side. This peculiarity +originated from the captain having killed a man at Tilbury camp; and, in +token of his sorrow, he determined never more to use his right hand. +Lord Chancellor Talbot was buried in this church; he was the son of +William Talbot, Bishop of Durham, and was born in the year 1684. After +being elected a fellow of All Soul's College, Oxford, he married, and +consequently was compelled to give up his fellowship. When he left the +university, he was admitted a member of the society of Lincoln's Inn, +and was speedily called to the bar. He was chosen to represent the now +disfranchised borough of Tregony, in Cornwall, and afterwards was made +member for the city of Durham. He died in the enjoyment of the highest +character, after a short illness, on the 14th of February, 1737. Few +Chancellors have been more lamented, both in public and private life. +Lord Talbot acquired universal esteem. The Hall was built by him in the +year 1734, soon after which it was destroyed by fire. The grounds +furnish a good specimen of the "ferme ornee," (ornamental farm) and the +park, about three miles in circumference, is well planted with a variety +of beautiful trees. + +[Sidenote: Capt. Edward Bray.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-------------------------+---------+--------------+-------------+ + 33|Barrow pa|Salop |M. Wenlock 4|Bridgenorth 6| + 36|Barrow pa|Suffolk |Bury 6|Newmarket 9| + 34|Barrow-Gourney pa|Somerset |Bristol 5|Axbridge 12| + 7|Barrow, Great pa & to|Chester |Chester 6|Northwich 13| + 24|Barrow-on-Humber pa|Lincoln |Barton 3|Grimsby 17| + 34|Barrow, North pa|Somerset |Castle Carey 3|Ilchester 8| + 34|Barrow, South pa|Somerset |... 4|... 7| + 23|Barrow-on-Soar[A] pa & to|Leicester|Mount Sorrel 2|Loughboro' 3| + 24|Barrowby pa|Lincoln |Grantham 2|Newark 12| + 32|Barrowden pa|Rutland |Uppingham 6|Stamford 8| + 22|Barrowford to|Lancaster|Colne 2|Clitheroe 5| + 54|Barry pa|Glamorgan|Cardiff 9|Cowbridge 7| + 54|Barry Isle[B] Isle|Glamorgan|... 9|... 8| + +--+-------------------------+---------+--------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-------------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ + 33|Barrow pa|Broseley 2| 146| 351| + 36|Barrow pa|Mildenhall 9| 69| 856| + 34|Barrow-Gourney pa|Pensford 7| 120| 279| + 7|Barrow, Great pa & to|Tarporley 5| 183| 436| + 24|Barrow-on-Humber pa|Brigg 11| 167| 1334| + 34|Barrow, North pa|Wincanton 8| 116| 150| + 34|Barrow, South pa| ... 9| 117| 139| + 23|Barrow-on-Soar[A] pa & to|Leicester 9| 107| 6254| + 24|Barrowby pa|Colterswor 10| 112| 687| + 32|Barrowden pa|Oakham 8| 92| 485| + 22|Barrowford to|Burnley 6| 216| 2633| + 54|Barry pa|Llandaff 9| 169| 72| + 54|Barry Isle[B] Isle| ... 9| 169| ...| + +--+-------------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ + + + +[A] BARROW. This large and pleasant village appears to have taken its +name from an ancient tumulus. It is occupied principally by gentlemen +farmers, many of whom, however, derive great profit from the quantities +of lime which they get up and burn. This village having been for many +centuries celebrated for a hard blue stone, similar to that in the vale +of Belvoir, and when calcined, produces a very fine matter, from which +is prepared a particularly hard, firm, and greatly esteemed cement. +Various fossil remains are found amongst the limestone. One of the +petrifactions, still preserved at Cambridge, with Dr. Woodward's +fossils, is a plain and bold representation of a flat-fish, about twelve +inches long. Mr. Jones, in his "Philosophical Disquisitions," notices it +by saying, that "our country hath lately afforded what I apprehend to be +the greatest curiosity of the sort that ever appeared. It is the entire +figure of a bream, more than a foot in length, and of a proportionable +depth, with the scales, fins, and gills, fairly projecting from the +surface, like a sculpture in relievo, and with all the lineaments, even +to the most minute fibres of the tail, so complete, that the like was +never seen before." Dr. William Beveridge, one of the most learned +prelates of the English church, was born here in the year 1638. At St. +John's College, Cambridge, he applied himself with intense application +to the study of oriental literature. He reviewed the Hebrew, Chaldee, +Syriac, Arabic, and Samaritan tongues, and produced a Syriac grammar. He +was raised to the see of St. Asaph, in the year 1704, but he enjoyed his +new dignity for a short period,--his death took place in the year 1708. +In his divinity he was Calvinistic; from the simplicity and piety of his +character, he was beloved by all parties. He lies buried in St. Paul's +Cathedral. + +[Sidenote: Superior lime quarries.] + +[Sidenote: The pious Beveridge born here.] + + +[B] BARRY ISLAND, the name of which has been thought to have been +derived from St. Baroche, a hermit, who, according to Cressy, died here +in the year 700. This island, which lets for about L80. a year, is +estimated to contain about 300 acres. In Leland's time there was, in the +middle of it, a "fair little chapel used," but there was no dwelling. +Since that period, however, a house has been erected for the residence +of a farmer, which, in the summer, is converted into a boarding-house, +for the reception of sea-bathers. The family of Giraldus de Barri, are +said to have taken their title from this island, of which they were once +lords. "It is remarkable," observes Giraldus, "that in a rock near the +entrance of the island, there is a small cavity, to which, if the ear is +applied, a noise is heard like that of smiths at work--the blowing of +bellows, strokes of hammers, grinding of tools, and roaring of furnaces; +and it might easily have been imagined, that such noises which are +continued at the ebb and flow of the tides, were occasioned by the +influx of the sea under the cavities of the rocks." Sir Richard Hoare, +in his additions to Giraldus, observes as follows:--"Towards the +southern part of the island, on a spot called Nell's Point, is a fine +well, to which great numbers of women resort on Holy Thursday, and, +having washed their eyes at the spring, each drops a pin into it. The +landlord of the boarding-house told me, that on clearing out the well he +took out a pint full of these votive offerings." On the main land, +opposite the western extremity of the island, lies the village of Barry, +near which are some remains of the castle. A few miles north-westward +from Barry are the remains of Penmark castle, anciently the property of +Sir Gilbert Humphreville, one of the followers of Fitzhamon. Llancarvan, +in this vicinity, was once the seat of a religious house, said to have +been founded by Cadoc the Wise, in the 6th century. Llancarvan is also +distinguished as the birth-place of Caradoc, the Welsh annalist, who +compiled a history of the Principality, from the abdication of +Cadwaladyr, 686, to his own time. Tref Walter, or Walterston, in this +parish, was the residence of Walter de Mapes, a writer of some note +towards the middle of the 12th century. He was Archdeacon of Oxford, and +Chaplain to Henry I. He built the church of Llancarvan, a large +substantial edifice, and the village of Walterston, with a mansion for +himself. His literary labours comprise a translation of the British +Chronicle into Latin, and a Welsh version of Geoffrey of Monmouth's +fabulous paraphrase of the same work. He wrote also a Treatise on +Agriculture in the Welsh language. + +[Sidenote: Remarkable noises heard here.] + +[Sidenote: Curious custom.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+---------------------+---------+-------------+-------------+ + 36|Barsham pa|Suffolk |Beccles 3|Bungay 5| + 27|Barsham, (East) pa|Norfolk |Fakenham 3|Walsingham 3| + 27|Barsham, (North) pa|Norfolk |Walsingham 2|Wells 6| + 27|Barsham, (West) pa|Norfolk |Fakenham 3|Walsingham 3| + 39|Barston pa|Warwick |Warwick 12|Coventry 9| + 17|Bartestree chap|Hereford |Hereford 5|Bromyard 14| + 7|Bartherton to|Chester |Nantwich 2|Whitchurch 10| + 21|Bartholomew lib.|Kent |Canterbury 13|Deal 7| + 7|Barthomley[A] pa & to|Chester |Sandbach 7|Newcastle 7| + 7|Bartington to|Chester |Northwick 4|Warrington 8| + 6|Bartlow[B] pa|Cambridge|Linton 2|Haverhill 6| + 14|Bartlow End ham|Essex | 3| 6| + 4|Barton ham|Berks |Oxford 6|E. Illsley 9| + 6|Barton pa|Cambridge|Cambridge 4|Caxton 8| + 7|Barton to|Chester |Chester 10|Malpas 7| + +--+---------------------+---------+-------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+---------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + 36|Barsham pa|Halesworth 9| 109| 182| + 27|Barsham, (East) pa|Burnham M. 10| 102| 219| + 27|Barsham, (North) pa|Fakenham 4| 113| 84| + 27|Barsham, (West) pa|Creek 4| 112| 101| + 39|Barston pa|Birmingham 13| 100| 342| + 17|Bartestree chap|Ledbury 12| 132| 50| + 7|Bartherton to|Audlem 4| 163| 34| + 21|Bartholomew lib.|Ramsgate 6| 68| 61| + 7|Barthomley[A] pa & to|Nantwich 11| 157| 449| + 7|Bartington to|Knutsford 7| 177| 76| + 6|Bartlow[B] pa|Saff. Walden 6| 48| 106| + 14|Bartlow End ham| 5| 47| 205| + 4|Barton ham|Dorchester 7| 56| 14| + 6|Barton pa|Royston 12| 49| 273| + 7|Barton to|Tarporley 12| 175| 168| + +--+---------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BARTHOMLEY contains several townships. The nave of the church has a +richly carved wooden roof, dated 1589. On the 22d of December, 1643, a +troop of Lord Byron's passing through the village, made an attack upon +this venerable edifice, into which several of the inhabitants had gone +for safety; they soon got possession of it, and having set fire to the +forms, rushes, and mats, made such a smoke that the men who had +retreated into the steeple were obliged to call for quarter, but their +assailants having got them into their power, are said to have stripped +them all, and most cruelly murdered twelve of them in cold blood, three +only being suffered to escape. A free school was founded here, in the +year 1676, by the Rev. Mr. Steele, in which ten children are educated. +In the year 1787, Mrs. Mary, Mrs. Margaret, and Mrs. Judith Alsager, +ladies of the manor, obtained an Act of Parliament to enable them to +finish a new church, or chapel, to be called Christ's Church, or Chapel, +in that township. The same ladies built a school-house, and founded a +school there, for the education of children of both sexes. + +[Sidenote: Cruel murder.] + + +[B] BARTLOW. Near this place, are four contiguous barrows, known by the +name of Bartlow Hills, from their situation with respect to Bartlow +Church. These are vulgarly, though erroneously, regarded as the tumuli +raised over the slain in the battle fought between Edmund Ironside and +the Danish King, Canute, in the year 1016. It is evident, indeed, from +our account of Ashington, at page 50, that the place of action should be +sought for, rather in the vicinity of the sea than at the northern +extremity of the county. Camden states, that these stone coffins, with +broken human bones in them, were found in one of these barrows; and +Hollingshead affirms, that two bodies were found in one stone coffin. +Mr. Gough remarks, that we do not find the use of stone coffins amongst +the northern nations in their Pagan state; and the Danes were not +converted until long after the time of Canute. The origin of these +barrows, therefore, cannot now be traced. + + Map|Names of Places. |County. |Number of Miles from | + +--+----------------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ + 17|Barton to|Hereford |Kington 1|Presteign 5| + 30|Barton pa|Nottingham|Nottingham 6|Rempstone 7| + 40|Barton, (High),[A] pa & to|Westmorlnd|Appleby 3|Orton 6| + 23|Barton ham|Leicester |M. Bosworth 2|Leicester 14| + 27|Barton Bendish pa|Norfolk |Stoke Ferry 4|Swaffham 8| + 10|Barton-le-Blount pa|Derby |Derby 10|Ashborne 9| + 3|Barton in the Clay pa|Bedford |Silsoe 3|Luton 7| + 44|Barton, St. Cuthbert pa & to|N.R. York |Darlington 5|Richmond 7| + 34|Barton, St. David's, pa|Somerset |Somerton 4|Glastonbury 7| + 36|Barton, (Great) pa|Suffolk |Bury 3|Ixworth 4| + 5|Barton Hartshorne pa|Buckingham|Buckingham 4|Bicester 8| + 39|Barton on the heath[B] pa|Warwick |Shipston 6|L. Compton 2| + +--+----------------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ + |Dist.|Popul + Map|Names of Places. |Number of Miles from |Lond.|-ation. + +--+----------------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ + 17|Barton to|Hereford 21| 156| ...| + 30|Barton pa|Derby 13| 121| 379| + 40|Barton, (High),[A] pa & to|Brough 11| 272| 1537| + 23|Barton ham|Ashby 10| 108| 163| + 27|Barton Bendish pa|Downham 8| 92| 459| + 10|Barton-le-Blount pa|Uttoxeter 8| 136| 60| + 3|Barton in the Clay pa|Ampthill 4| 38| 720| + 44|Barton, St. Cuthbert pa & to|Barnard Cas 14| 238| 499| + 34|Barton, St. David's pa|Castle Cary 7| 120| 410| + 36|Barton, (Great) pa|Thetford 13| 74| 702| + 5|Barton Hartshorne pa|Brackley 6| 59| 145| + 39|Barton on the heath[B] pa|Chip. Norton 7| 79| 208| + +--+----------------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BARTON. Stockbridge Hall, an ancient edifice, was the seat of the +Lancasters, whose arms are yet seen on the ceiling of the dining-room, +and who continued here through twelve generations, when their estates +fell to the Lowthers. The church, which is a low and extensive building, +with a heavy tower between the chancel and the nave, contains the tomb +of one of the Lancasters; some escutcheons of several families in the +neighbourhood, and a brass plate, on which is this remarkable epitaph:-- + + "Under this stone, reader, interred doth lie, + Beauty and virtue's true epitomy. + At her appearance the noone sun + Blushed and shrunk in, 'cause quite undone. + In her concentered did all graces dwell; + God plucked my rose that he might take a smell. + I'll say no more, but weeping, wish I may, + Soone with thy dear chaste ashes come to lay." + +The lady thus extravagantly eulogised, was Frances, the wife of +Launcelot Dawes; she died in 1673. Barton school was founded in 1641, by +four priests, natives of this parish. + +[Sidenote: Remarkable epitaph.] + + +[B] BARTON. Near this village is a large stone, called Four-shire stone, +from its forming the point of junction of the four counties of +Gloucester, Worcester, Warwick, and Oxford. Here once resided an +attorney of so pacific a disposition that he usually acted as mediator +when disputes arose. This anomalous person, named Dover, instituted the +annual festivities termed Cotswold Games, and was for forty years their +chief supporter. These diversions were celebrated upon the Cotswold +Hills, in Gloucestershire, and prodigious multitudes are said to have +resorted to them. They consisted of wrestling, cudgel-playing, leaping, +pitching the bar, throwing the sledge, tossing the pike, with various +other feats of strength and activity. A castle of boards was erected on +this occasion, from which guns were frequently discharged. Dover +received permission from James I. to hold these sports, and he appeared +at their celebration in the very clothes which that monarch had formerly +worn; but it is said there was much more dignity in his form and aspect. +John Heywood, the epigramatist, speaking of these games, says-- + + "He fometh like a bore, the beaste should seem bold, + For he is as fierce as a lyon of Cotsolde." + +[Sidenote: Cotswold games.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+------------------------+-----------+---------------+-------------+ + 24|Barton[A] m.t.|Lincoln |Hull 7|Brigg 11| + 22|Barton on Irwell to|Lancaster |Manchester 6|Newton 14| + 36|Barton, Little pa|Suffolk |Mildenhall 1|Newmarket 9| + 44|Barton, St. Mary, chap|N.R. York |Darlington 5|Richmond 7| + 35|Barton chap|Stafford |Burton on Tr. 5|Lichfield 9| + 28|Barton Segrave pa|Northamp. |Kettering 2|Thrapston 8| + 16|Barton Stacey pa|Hants. |Whitchurch 6|Andover 6| + 31|Barton Steeple[B] pa|Oxford |Deddington 5|Woodstock 7| + 15|Barton Street ham|Gloucester |Gloucester 1|Cheltenham 9| + 43|Barton in Street pa|N.R. York |New Malton 5|Pickering 5| + 27|Barton Turf pa|Norfolk |Coltishall 5|Worstead 4| + 31|Barton Westcott pa|Oxford |Enstone 4|Woodstock 7| + 43|Barton in the Willows, t|N.R. York |York 10|New Malton 8| + 45|Barugh to|W.R. York |Barnsley 3|Wakefield 9| + 43|Barugh, Gt. & Little pa|N.R. York |Pickering 3|New Malton 5| + 23|Barwell pa|Leicester |Hinckley 2|M. Bosworth 7| + 14|Barwick pa|Essex |Chipp. Ongar 6|Dunmow 8| + 34|Barwick pa|Somerset |Yeovil 2|Sherborne 6| + 41|Barwick Basset pa|Wilts |Calne 7|Swindon 8| + +--+-----------------------+------------+---------------+-------------+ + |Dist.|Popul + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|-ation. + +--+------------------------+---------------------------+-----+-------+ + 24|Barton[A] m.t.|Lincoln 34| 167| 3231| + 22|Barton on Irwell to|Warrington 14| 185| 8976| + 36|Barton, Little pa|Bury 12| 70| 591| + 44|Barton, St. Mary, chap|Barnard Cas. 14| 238| ...| + 35|Barton chap|Abbotts Brom 8| 130| 1344| + 28|Barton Segrave pa|Wellingboro 8| 75| 203| + 16|Barton Stacey pa|Winchester 9| 62| 626| + 31|Barton Steeple[B] pa|Charlbury 9| 63| 606| + 15|Barton Street ham||Ross 17| 103| 786| + 43|Barton in Street pa|Helmsley 10| 222| 436| + 27|Barton Turf pa|Norwich 13| 121| 391| + 31|Barton Westcott pa|Deddington 5| 64| 258| + 43|Barton in the Willows, t|Sutton 10| 206| 202| + 45|Barugh to|Huddersfield 14| 175| 946| + 43|Barugh, Gt. & Little pa|Scarborough 18| 223| 294| + 23|Barwell pa|Leicester 11| 101| 1505| + 14|Barwick pa|Chelmsford 10| 27| 97| + 34|Barwick pa|Crewkherne 8| 123| 415| + 41|Barwick Basset pa|Marlborough 8| 83| 164| + +--+-----------------------+------------+---------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BARTON. This ancient town is pleasantly situated about +three-quarters of a mile from the southern bank of the Humber. It was +formerly surrounded by a rampart and fossee, the remains of which are +still discernable. It was doubtless a place of great strength before the +conquest, and served as a barrier against the irruptions of the Saxons +and Danes. At the period of the conquest it was a principal port of the +Humber, and until the rise of Kingston-upon-Hull it enjoyed an extensive +commerce. At present its derives its principal consequence from being +the point whence the communication with the Lincoln road is continued +across the Humber to Hull, a distance of about six miles and a half. + + _Market_, Monday.--_Fair_, Trinity Thursday, for cattle.--_Mail_ + arrives 3.0 afternoon; departs 11.15 morning--_Inn_, The Waterside + Inn. + +[Sidenote: Once a place of importance.] + + +[B] STEEPLE BARTON. In this parish is situated Rowsham, which was, for +several centuries, the seat of the Dormers, and it continued in their +possession until the decease of General Dormer, in the year 1750. That +gentleman bequeathed the mansion and estates to his cousin, Sir Clement +Cottrell, Knight, Master of the Ceremonies to George II., who annexed +the name of Dormer to his own, and in whose family the property has +since remained. The situation is extremely fine, and the grounds, which +were laid out by Kent, during the life-time of General Dormer, afford a +variety of picturesque and pleasant views. The mansion was built in the +reign of Queen Elizabeth, but a few alterations were made at subsequent +periods. The walls are embattled, and the doors are singularly enough +perforated with holes (with slides to cover) so as to admit muskets +being pointed through them. There is a large hall, and valuable library, +containing many old and rare authors. A very excellent collection of +paintings, (about 180 in number), and of busts and other figures in +bronze, (amounting to fifty-five), has also been formed here. Horace +Walpole, in one of his eloquent letters to George Montague, has thus +spoken of this place:--"But the greatest pleasure we had, was in seeing +Sir Charles Cotterell's, at Rowsham: it reinstated Kent with me; he has +no where shewn so much taste. The house is old, and was bad; he has +improved it--stuck as close as he could to gothic; has made a delightful +library, and the whole is comfortable. The garden is Daphne in little, +the sweetest little groves, streams, glades, porticoes, cascades, and +rivers imaginable: all the scenes are perfectly classic. Well, if I had +such a house, such a library, so pretty a place, and so pretty a wife, I +think I should let King George send to Herenhausen for a Master of the +Ceremonies." The pleasure-grounds are beautifully shaded by flourishing +and noble beech trees; they are also ornamented by several stone +statues, which all throw up water, except a very fine one of the dying +gladiator, and a group of the lion tearing the horse, by Sheemacher. + +[Sidenote: Rowsham House.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------------+----------+-------------+------------+ + 27|Barwick pa|Norfolk |Burnham 4|Wells 11| + 45|Barwick pa & to|W.R. York |Wetherby 7|Tadcaster 7| + 33|Baschurch pa|Salop |Shrewsbury 8|Oswestry 10| + 7|Basford to|Chester |Nantwich 5|Sandbach 8| + 30|Basford[A] pa|Nottingham|Nottingham 3|Mansfield 12| + 35|Basford[B] to|Stafford |Leek 3|Longnor 7| + 45|Bashall to|W.R. York |Clitheroe 5|Lancaster 16| + 4|Basilden pa|Berks |Reading 8|Streatley 2| + 14|Basildon chap|Essex |Billericay 4|Gravesend 12| + 16|Basing, Old[C] to & ch|Hants |Basingstoke 2|Odiham 5| + +--+----------------------+----------+-------------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+--------------------+--------------------------+-----+-------+ + 27|Barwick pa|Fakenham 11| 117| 35| + 45|Barwick pa & to|Abberford 2| 188| 1922| + 33|Baschurch pa|Ellesmere 9| 161| 1321| + 7|Basford to|Woore 7| 160| 85| + 30|Basford[A] pa|Arnold 3| 127| 6325| + 35|Basford[B] to|Cheadle 7| 151| 300| + 45|Bashall to|Blackburn 10| 222| 310| + 4|Basilden pa|Wallingford 8| 47| 780| + 14|Basildon chap|Rochford 12| 27| 124| + 16|Basing, Old[C] to & ch|Alton 12| 44| 1113| + +--+----------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BASFORD lies in a bottom, approached from the race-ground. The +scenery around it is rich in the extreme. This village has greatly +increased of late, from various manufactures, and the improvements +consequent upon them. Here are corn and cotton-mills, and the bleaching +and dying branches of business are carried on with considerable success. +The church has a very handsome spire, with a nave and side aisles in +very good order, but there are no ancient inscriptions. The importance +of this place has also been kept up, by its being the seat of the Court +of the Honour of Peverel, since it was removed from Nottingham. It sits +twice in the year, to try causes as high as L50. A jail for the court is +situated here, which Howard describes as having, at the time of his +writing, merely one room, with three beds; but the keepers told him he +had another little room for women prisoners, of whom there being none in +his custody, he applied the apartment to domestic uses. A bowling-green, +close by the jail, is much frequented by the inhabitants of Nottingham. +At Mapperley, a hamlet in this parish, is a handsome seat of Ichabod +Wright, Esq., a banker of Nottingham. + +[Sidenote: The trade.] + + +[B] BASFORD. Here was born, in 1630, the celebrated Charles Cotton, a +burlesque poet of the seventeenth century. He received his education at +Cambridge, and afterwards travelled through France. On his return to +England he resided with his father at Basford, in the neighbourhood of +the Peak. His first production was, a poetical essay on the gallant Earl +of Derby. In 1656, he married a daughter of Sir Thomas Hutchinson, a +Nottinghamshire Knight. Two years after this his father died; he then +succeeded him in the family estate, which was encumbered with mortgages: +being of an improvident disposition, he was subject to constant +embarrassments, and was even confined for some months in a prison for +debt. After the death of his first wife, he married the Countess Dowager +of Ardglass. He died at Westminster in 1687. Some of his poems, of +considerable merit, were published after his death. + +[Sidenote: Charles Cotton.] + + +[C] BASING, or OLD BASING, though a small village, is of some +importance, as the scene of a desperate and bloody battle between the +Danes and the Saxons, in 871, commanded by King Ethelred and his brother +Alfred, when the latter were defeated. It was, however, rendered more +famous by the gallant stand made against the parliamentary forces in the +reign of Charles I., by John Poulet, Marquis of Winchester, a lineal +descendant of Hugh de Port, who, at the time of the Domesday Survey, +held 55 lordships in this county. This small village was the principal +of these extensive possessions, and appears to have been the very site +of a castle, as mention of the land of the old castle of Basing is made +in a grant allowed by John de Port, to the neighbouring priory at Monks +Sherborne, in the reign of Henry II. His grandson, William, assumed the +surname of St. John; and Robert, Lord St. John, in the 43d of Henry +III., obtained a license to fix a pole upon the bann of his moat, at +Basing, with permission to continue it so fortified during the pleasure +of the King. In the reign of Richard II., Basing was transferred by +marriage to the Poynings; and again, in the time of Henry VI., to the +Paulets, by the alliance of Constance with Sir John Paulet, of Nunny +Castle, in Somersetshire. Sir William Paulet, Knt., third in descent +from this couple, created Baron St. John, of Basing, by Henry VIII.; and +Earl of Wiltshire, and Marquis of Winchester, by Edward VI., was a very +accomplished and polite nobleman, greatly in favour at court during most +of the successive changes that occurred in the reigns of Henry VIII., +Edward VI., Queen Mary, and Queen Elizabeth. He held the office of +treasurer nearly 30 years, sustaining himself by the courtly maxim, of +"being a willow, and not an oak." He rebuilt Basing Castle, in a +magnificent, and even in a princely style; indeed, so much so, that +Camden, in allusion to the immense expense of living entailed on his +family by its splendour, observes that, "it was so overpowered by its +own weight, that his posterity has been forced to pull down a part of +it." Here, in 1560, he entertained Queen Elizabeth with "all good +cheer," and so much to her satisfaction, that she playfully lamented his +great age; "for by my troth," said she, "if my Lord Treasurer were but a +young man, I could find it in my heart to have him for a husband before +any man in England." William, the great-grandson of this nobleman, and +fourth Marquis of Winchester, had also, in 1601, the honour of having +Queen Elizabeth for a guest for "thirteen days, to the great charge of +the sayde Lorde Marquesse." During her residence here, the Duke of +Biron, accompanied by about 20 of the French nobility, and a retinue of +about 400 persons, were accommodated at the Vine, the seat of Lord +Sandys, which had been purposely furnished with hangings and plate from +the Tower, and Hampton Court, and with seven score beds and furniture, +"which the willing and obedient people of the countrie of Southampton, +upon two days' warning, had brought in thither to lend the Queen." When +Elizabeth departed from Basing, she affirmed, that "she had done that in +Hampshire, that none of her ancestors ever did; neither that any Prince +in Christendom could do: that was, she had in her progresses, in her +subject's houses, entertained a royal ambassador, and had royally +entertained him." John, son of the preceding, and fifth Marquis of +Winchester, was the brave nobleman who rendered his name immortal by his +gallant defence of Basing House, in the cause of Charles I., during a +tedious succession of sieges and blockades, which, with short +intermissions, continued upwards of two years. The journal of the siege, +printed in Oxford, in 1645, is one of the most eventful pieces of +history during the civil war. The final investment appears to have been +undertaken by Cromwell, who took it by storm, in October 1645, and burnt +it to the ground, in despite of the Aimez Loyaulte, which the Marquis +had written with a diamond in every window, and which has ever since +been the motto of the family arms. The plunder obtained on this occasion +is said to have amounted to L200,000. in cash, jewels, and rich +furniture. The number of soldiers slain before the walls from the +commencement of the siege, is recorded to have been upwards of 2,000. +There is a traditionary report, that the garrison was partly surprized +through some of the troops being engaged at cards when the assault +commenced. From a survey made in 1798, it appears that the area of the +works, including the garden and entrenchments, occupied about fourteen +acres and a half. The form was extremely irregular, the ditches very +deep, and the ramparts high and strong; some of the remains are yet very +bold and striking. The site of the ruins is particularly commanding. The +canal from Basingstoke has been cut through a part of the works, and the +outward entrenchments have been rendered very obscure and imperfect from +recent improvements in the grounds. The brave Marquis, whose property +was reduced to ruin in the cause of his Sovereign, lived to the +restoration, but received no recompence for his immense losses. He died +in 1674, and was succeeded by his eldest son, Charles, who, when he saw +that other men of sense were at their wits' end, in the arbitary and +tyrannical reign of James II., thought it prudent to assume the +character of a madman, as the first Brutus did, in the reign of Tarquin. +He danced, hunted, or hawked, a part of the day, went to bed before +noon, and constantly sat at table all night. He went to dinner at six or +seven in the evening, and his meal lasted till six or seven in the +morning; during which time he ate, drank, smoked, talked, or listened to +music. The company that dined with him were at liberty to rise and amuse +themselves, or to take a nap, whenever they were so disposed; but the +dishes and bottles were all the while standing upon the table. Such a +man as this was thought a very unlikely person to concern himself with +politics, or with religion. By this conduct, he was neither embroiled in +public affairs, nor gave the least umbrage to the court; but he exerted +himself so much in the revolution, that he was, for his eminent +services, created Duke of Bolton: he afterwards raised a regiment of +foot for the reduction of Ireland. Charles, son of the former, and +second Duke of Bolton, assisted in the great work of the revolution; and +was one of the noblemen appointed at Exeter, in November, 1688, to +manage the revenues of the Prince of Orange, as Sovereign of England. In +1717, he was declared Lord-Lieutenant of Ireland. Charles, the eldest +son, and third Duke of Bolton, filled several high offices in the state. +This nobleman, on the death of his first wife, from whom he had long +been separated, wedded the celebrated Lavinia Beswick, or Fenton, more +known by the name of Polly Peachem, from her celebrity in the +performance of that character in the "Beggar's Opera." The parish church +of Basing is a large, ancient, and curious structure, standing at a +short distance from the site of Basing House, with a tower rising in the +centre. In a niche at the west-end is a figure of the Virgin Mary: the +roof is supported by round arches, springing from massive columns. This +edifice was repaired in 1510, by Sir John Paulet, who, with his father, +John Paulet, Esq., and their respective wives, lie buried beneath two +arched tombs, one on each side the chancel. Beneath the south aisle is +the family vault of the Paulets, in which six Dukes of Bolton, with many +of their noble relations, are deposited. A mural monument has also been +erected in this church to the memory of Francis Russel, Esq., F.R.S. and +F.S.A., a native of Basingstoke, who assisted Mr. Nichols in his History +of Leicestershire. He died in 1795. + +[Sidenote: Great battles fought here.] + +[Sidenote: Queen Elizabeth splendidly entertained here for 13 days.] + +[Sidenote: Burnt by Cromwell.] + +[Sidenote: The sixth Marquis of Winchester, a singular character.] + +[Sidenote: Polly Peachem.] + + Map| Names of Places. |County.| Number of Miles From | + +--+------------------------+-------+------------+-----------+ + 16|Basingstoke[A] m.t. & p|Hants. |Andover 13|Reading 15| + +--+------------------------+-------+------------+-----------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From|Lond.|Population. + +--+------------------------+--------------------+-----+----+ + 16|Basingstoke[A] m.t. & p|Winchester 17| 46|3581| + +--+------------------------+--------------------+-----+----+ + + +[A] BASINGSTOKE. This large, ancient, and populous town is situated in a +pleasant and well-wooded part of the county, and commands a considerable +trade from its standing at the junction of five great roads. In the +"Domesday Book" it is mentioned as always having been a royal manor, and +as never having paid any tax, nor been distributed into hides: it is +also noticed in that survey as having a market, whose tolls were worth +"thirty shillings": we presume this to have been the weekly +collection--a large sum in those days. From this town a canal was made +to the river Wey, in Surrey; it was commenced in 1778. Its length is +thirty-seven miles and a quarter, and the expense of cutting it amounted +to L100,000. A large portion of this sum was laid out in forming a +tunnel, nearly three quarters of a mile in length, through a hill near +Odiham. Besides corn and flour, coals, timber, manure, and goods of +almost every description are conveyed to different parts of the country +by this channel. The first barge arrived at Basingstoke Wharf in +January, 1794. Among the numerous projected advantages which led to the +formation of the canal, was, the presumed cultivation of Bagshot Heath, +and other heaths within the line of its course. A beautiful ruin +overlooks the town on the north side, called Holy Ghost chapel. This was +founded by Sir William, afterwards Lord Sandys, who with Bishop Fox, +obtained a licence from Henry VIII. to found a brotherhood, to continue +in perpetual succession, for the maintenance of a priest to perform +divine service, and for the instruction of youth in literature. On an +eminence in the vicinity, is an ancient encampment of an elliptical +form, supposed to be British, three thousand three hundred feet in +circumference; it is called "Aubrey Camp," or familiarly "Bury Bank;" +the ditch on the outside is partly filled up by the labours of the +agriculturist; and in Rook's Down, in this neighbourhood, while cutting +a new road in 1831, a number of human skeletons were discovered, +supposed to be of those who fell in some battle fought near this place. +The free grammar school adjoins the venerable ruins of the chapel of the +Holy Ghost; it is an ancient edifice, and is supposed originally to have +been the parish church. This grammar school was first founded by Sir +William Sandys, in connexion with the "Guild of the Holy Ghost," and was +re-established upon the dissolution of that fraternity, by Queen Mary, +in the succeeding reign. There are twelve boys at present on the +foundation. Drs. Jos. Warton, the refined poet and critic, and his +brother Thomas Warton, Poet Laureate, were both educated here, under +their father, Thomas Warton, B.D., Professor of Poetry in the university +of Oxford, a writer of considerable ability. John De Basinge, a learned +Greek scholar, a friend and contemporary of that intelligent historian, +Matthew Paris, was a native of this town. He was a man eminent for piety +and learning, and a perfect master of the Greek and Latin languages--an +eloquent orator--an able mathematician, and a sound divine. Having laid +the foundation of his university learning at Oxford, he went to Paris, +and from thence to Athens; upon his return to England, he brought over +several curious Greek manuscripts, and introduced the use of Greek +numerical figures into this country; and to facilitate the knowledge of +that rich language, which at that remote period was very little known or +appreciated in the western world. He translated from the Greek, into the +Latin, the celebrated Grammar, entitled "The Denatus of the Greeks," and +the learning and piety of this truly good man, recommended him to the +esteem of all the lovers of literature of that time: particularly that +of Robert Grosteste, Bishop of Lincoln, by whom he was promoted from the +Archdeaconry of London, to that of Leicester; he died in 1252. Among +other subjects he wrote a Latin translation of the harmony of the four +Gospels; and it was this learned individual that informed Robert, Bishop +of Lincoln, that he had seen at Athens, a book called "The Testament of +the Twelve Patriarchs," upon which the Bishop sent for it and translated +it into Latin; this valuable MS. was first printed in 1555, and has +often been reprinted in English. At Basingstoke, was also born Sir James +Lancaster, an eminent navigator, who in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, +explored the Arctic Sea. Thomas Warton, the historian of English Poetry, +was descended from an ancient and honorable family in Beverly, County +York, and born at Basingstoke, in 1728; from his infancy he discovered a +vein for poetry, and at the age of nine years he wrote to his sister +that remarkable production of his genius: viz. a translation from the +Latin of Martial:-- + + "When bold Leander sought his distant fair, + (Nor could the sea a braver burthen bear) + Thus to the swelling waves he spake his woe, + Drown me on my return--but spare me as I go." + +This curious document bears date from the school of Basingstoke, Nov. +1737. In March 1773, at the age of sixteen, he was admitted a Commoner +at Trinity College, Oxford, and soon after elected a Scholar. At this +college Mr. Warton continued, with trifling intervals, forty-seven +years. In 1745, he published "The Pleasures of Melancholy." In 1749, in +consequence of a foolish riot occasioned by some of the scholars, Mason, +the Poet, produced a poem called the "Isis," reflecting upon the loyalty +of the college, upon which Mr. Warton immediately wrote the "Triumph of +Isis," a poem of some merit, and a severe commentary upon the other +production. About this time, his talents being generally acknowledged, +he became Poet Laureate, and in 1750 he took a Master's Degree, and in +1751 succeeded to a Fellowship. In 1754 he published his observations on +the "Faerie Queene of Spencer." In 1757, upon the resignation of Mr +Hawkins, of Pembroke College, he was elected Professor of Poetry, which +he held according to the usual custom for ten years. He died, May 21, +1790. Basingstoke is one of the polling places for the northern division +of the county. + + _Market_, Wednesday.--_Fairs_, Easter Tuesday, for cheese and cattle; + Whit-Wednesday for pedlary; September 23, for cattle and hiring + servants, Devonport. _Mail_ arrives 12.55 morning; departs 1.48 + morning.--_Bankers_, Raggett and Co., draw on Masterman and + Co.--_Inn_, Crown. + +[Sidenote: Royal manor.] + +[Sidenote: Aubrey Camp.] + +[Sidenote: Eminent men born here.] + + Map| Names of Places.|County. |Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------+--------+------------+----------+ + 24|Basingthorpe pa|Lincoln |Corby 3|Grantham 8| + 53|Basingwerk[A] vil|Flint |Holeywell 1|Flint 5| + 10|Baslow chap|Derby |Middleton 3|Bakewell 5| + +--+-----------------+--------+------------+----------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places.|Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------+---------------------+-----+----+ + 24|Basingthorpe pa|Folingham 10| 105| 122| + 53|Basingwerk[A] vil|Park Gate 7| 204| | + 10|Baslow chap|Chesterfield 10| 158| 863| + +--+-----------------+---------------------+----+-----+ + + +[A] BASINGWERK. This place is chiefly celebrated for the remains of its +ancient abbey; for the vestiges of a house belonging to the Knights +Templars; and for a castle, once the key to this part of the country. +The abbey, which had the names also of Maes-Glas and Greenfield +monastery, is beautifully situated in a meadow between two hills, on the +eastern side of the mouth of the Holywell river. It was founded, +according to Tanner, in 1131, by Ranulph, Earl of Chester; others say in +1150, by Henry II. The abbot was frequently summoned to attend in +parliament by Edward I. and at the dissolution of monasteries, the +annual revenue amounted to L150 7s. 3d. The remains convey an imperfect +idea of the original architecture. The doors and lower arches were +semi-circular and unornamented, the windows were long, narrow, and +pointed; but the south wall of the transept, one doorway, and one +pointed arch, are all that remain of the church, and the offices have +entirely disappeared. At a short distance from the ruins is an oak of +great age, called the Abbot's Oak, which measures fifteen feet two +inches in circumference. But the oaks and elms in this neighbourhood, +though of a large size, appear withered and blasted by the effect of the +channel breezes; the sycamores and maples are the only trees that +flourish; a useful hint to planters. The house for the lay order of the +Knights Templars, was instituted by Henry II., for the purpose of +defence against the inroads of the Welsh, and of this no more than some +portion of the offices remain. Vestiges of the castle are yet visible in +the fragments and foundation of a wall at some distance from the abbey, +on the very margin of Watts-dyke. On a slope among hanging woods, near +the township of Bagilt, stands Bagilt hall, a substantial mansion of +ancient erection, late the seat of Paul Panton, Esq. Mostyn hall, a seat +of Sir Thomas Mostyn, exhibits a variety of interesting features. +Approached by a venerable avenue and a magnificent gateway, it stands in +a small but beautiful park; it consisted originally of a square tower +and two halls, in the larger of which the festive orgies of the baronial +board were performed; but large additions were made in 1631, and many of +its pristine features are defaced. Numerous paintings decorate the +rooms, consisting for the most part of portraits, which illustrate all +the varieties of costume in the several ages of their production; among +the treasures of art are also many unique statues, busts, bronzes, and +other articles of ancient or foreign production. In this neighbourhood +are numerous collieries, the different appearance of which are phenomena +interesting to the geologist. On the summit of a height called Mostyn +mountain, is a monumental stone denominated Maen Achwynfan (the stone of +lamentation). Its form is that of an obelisk; in height twelve feet, and +two feet-four in thickness. It is probably a memorial of the dead slain +in battle; but there appear to be no certain grounds for determining the +period of its formation. + +[Sidenote: Ancient Abbey.] + +[Sidenote: Mostyn Hall.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+---------------------+----------+------------+-------------+ + 26|Bassaleg[A] pa|Monmouth |Newport 3|Cardiff 11| + 9|Bassenthwaite pa|Cumberland|Keswick 5|Cockermth 10| + 23|Basset House ex.p.lib|Leicester |Leicester 13|Atherstone 8| + 6|Bassingbourn pa|Cambridge |Royston 5|Potton 9| + 24|Bassingham pa|Lincoln |Newark 9|Lincoln 9| + 29|Bassington to|Northumb |Alnwick 4|Eglingham 4| + 24|Baston pa|Lincoln |M. Deeping 4|Bourn 4| + 27|Bastwick pa|Norfolk |Acle 5|Norwich 9| + 35|Baswich pa|Stafford |Stafford 2|Rugeley 8| + 12|Batcombe pa|Dorset |Sherborne 10|Cerne 4| + 34|Batcombe pa|Somerset |Bruton 3|Shepton 6| + 34|Bath[B] city|Somerset |Salisbury 38|Cheltenham 41| + +--+---------------------+----------+------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+---------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + 26|Bassaleg[A] pa|Bristol 12| 151| 1664| + 9|Bassenthwaite pa|Ireby 8| 296| 549| + 23|Basset House ex.p.lib|Lutterworth 11| 100| 23| + 6|Bassingbourn pa|Caxton 9| 42| 1446| + 24|Bassingham pa|Navenby 7| 133| 704| + 29|Bassington to|Whittingham 7| 312| 613| + 24|Baston pa|Stamford 9| 93| 709| + 27|Bastwick pa|Yarmouth 9| 117| 219| + 35|Baswich pa|Penkridge 6| 139| 546| + 12|Batcombe pa|Dorchester 12| 127| 178| + 34|Batcombe pa|Frome 10| 112| 839| + 34|Bath[B] city|Bristol 14| 106| 38063| + +--+---------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BASSALEG, a beautiful picturesque little village. In this parish was +a Priory of black monks of the Benedictine order, founded by Robert de +Haye, and Gundreda, his wife, between the years 1101 and 1120. No +remains of this building exist but a ruin in a wood, about one mile +distant from the church, called Coed-y-monachty, which is supposed to +have been part of the structure. At about one mile distant, near the +road to Llanfihangel, is a circular encampment, called Careg-y-saesson, +but almost obscured by underwood. Its name has induced some to attribute +it to the Saxons, but saesson is a term of reproach, which the Welsh +bestow on all foreigners. The entrenchment is a single foss and rampart +of earth. About one mile distant is another of a singular shape, with +loose stones lying in the foss, probably the remains of walls. These +fortresses are apparently British, and a meadow near Machen Place, +called Maes Arthur, records the memory of that celebrated hero. From +Bassaleg to the vale of Machen, the country is undulating and fertile. +This vale is pleasingly sequestered, yet intermixed with wildness and +cultivation. The hills which skirt it are partly covered with herbage, +and partly overhung with thick forests. The Rumney continues the +boundary of the two counties of Monmouth and Glamorgan. This river, with +the church, and Machen hill, almost covered with lime-kilns, give +variety and cheerfulness to the scenery. Machen Place lies at the +commencement of the vale, under the hanging groves of Rupara. A circular +apartment called the hunting-room is decorated with a rich stuccoed +ceiling, representing Diana in the middle, surrounded with seats, +churches, and parties, in twelve compartments. + +[Sidenote: Machen place.] + + +[B] BATH. This ancient and far-famed city is the chief ornament of the +west of England; that it is indebted to its medicinal springs for its +origin as well as importance, there can be little doubt, but the period +of its foundation is altogether unknown. The discovery of its springs, +or rather, of their virtues, was for a long time ascribed to King +Bladud, traditionally recorded "as the son of Lud Hudibras, King of +Britain, about 2,500 years ago. In his youth he became infected with the +leprosy, and, at the petition of the courtiers, who feared the +contagion, was banished by his father from the palace. The Queen, on his +departure, gave him a ring, as a token by which he should make himself +known to her if ever he recovered. The young prince, when he reached +Keynsham, met with a swineherd, by whom he was retained as an assistant. +In a short time, he perceived that he had tainted the pigs with his +leprosy. To conceal this misfortune, he sought permission to drive the +herd to the opposite side of the Avon, under pretext that the acorns +there were finer, and more abundant. Passing the river at a ford, since +denominated Swineford, he led his herd to the hills on the north-side of +Bath. While he was addressing his prayers to the rising sun, the pigs, +impelled by a sudden phrenzy, ran up the valley to the spot where the +hot-springs, boiling up, mixed their waters with the decayed weeds and +foliage, and formed a bog. In this warm oozy-bed they began to roll, and +wallow with delight; nor could their keeper allure them away, until +extreme hunger pressed them to follow him. On washing them, he perceived +that some had shed their white scurf; and he had not been many days +longer in these parts, here he perceived that one of his best sows, +which had been long wandering in the mire about the waters, was +perfectly cured. Bladud, judging that the remedy which had succeeded in +a particular instance, would prove generally efficacious, stripped +himself naked, alternately rolled in the mud, and washed in the waters; +and, after a few repetitions of this discipline, came out perfectly +sound. Elated by this good fortune, he drove home his pigs, returned to +court, and, shewing his ring, was recognized with rapture, and restored +to his former rank and dignity. His father afterwards determined on +sending him to Athens, to improve his natural genius. A splendid retinue +was ordered to attend him; but Bladud preferred to travel as a private +person, considering the parade of grandeur as an impediment to the +acquisition of knowledge. After devoting eleven years to the study of +literature, mathematics, and necromancy, he returned to Britain, was +appointed Regent during his father's old age, and succeeded to the +throne after his death. One of his first public works was the erection +of a city near the springs, which thenceforward became the capital of +the British monarchs. In his old age he devoted himself to the formation +of visionary projects; the most daring of which was the construction of +a pair of wings to fly with. In one of his attempts he fell and broke +his neck, much to the grief of his subjects, who had enjoyed the +blessings of his wise government more than twenty years." This account +of the origin of Bath was long popular; but the inquiries of the present +day have proved it unworthy of credit, and have adduced reasons to +conclude that the city was founded by the Romans, about the middle of +the first century. The form of the city approached to a parallelogram, +extending on one side so as to form an outline somewhat pentagonal, and +stretching in length, from east to west, about 1200 feet, and in the +broadest parts, from north to south, 1140 feet. The wall, which enclosed +this space, appears, from subsequent discoveries, to have been twenty +feet above ground in height, and in thickness sixteen feet at the base, +and eight at the summit, strengthened with five towers, rising at the +angles, and having four portae, or entrances, facing the cardinal points, +which were connected by two grand streets, dividing the city into four +parts, and intersecting each other at the centre. Near the point of +intersection were the springs, which the Romans converted into +magnificent baths, by attaching to them suitable edifices, which, when +complete, extended to two hundred and forty feet from east to west, and +one hundred and twenty from north to south. The Roman appellation of the +city, expressive of the genial heat and vigour derived from the springs, +was Aquae Solis, the waters of the sun. Roads were soon constructed to +communicate with the neighbouring posts and encampments, and "a little +Rome began to adorn a dreary and inhospitable wild." Agricola passed a +winter here, after his successful campaign in Wales; and Arian erected +here a "fabrica," or college of armourers. About the year 208, Geta, the +younger son of Septimius Severus, resided in Bath, while his father was +in Caledonia, quelling an insurrection. Some complimentary statues were +raised on this and other occasions. The most eminent of the Roman +structures was the temple of Minerva, on the eastern side of the great +fosse-way, and nearly mid-way between the Porta Decumana, and the Porta +Flumentana. Its western front consisted of a portico, supported by large +fluted columns, of the Corinthian order. Behind this temple, towards the +east, stood the splendid baths, the foundations of which were discovered +in 1755, at the depth of twenty feet beneath the surface. Of the remains +of Roman grandeur discovered from time to time, various specimens are +preserved, and deposited, by order of the corporation, in a small +building erected for the purpose, at the end of Bath-street. In the year +493, a large army of Saxons, under the command of AElla, and his three +sons, Cymenus, Pleting, and Cissa, encamped on Lansdown, and laid siege +to Bath. At this period the heroic Arthur was performing wonders in +favour of his countrymen. Apprized of the operations of the Saxon +general, he hastened after him, attacked, and defeated him in a bloody +and obstinate battle. About twenty-seven years afterwards, he again +delivered Bath from the assaults of these ferocious invaders, by +defeating a powerful army, on which occasion he is said to have slain +four hundred and forty men with his own hand. John de Villula, a native +of Tours, purchased the demesne of Rufus, in 1090, for five hundred +marks, and obtained permission to remove the Pontifical seat from Wells +thither; he rebuilt the monastery and church, restored the public and +private edifices, and thus became the founder of a new city, on the +ruins of the old one. Henry I. confirmed and extended the privileges +which his predecessor had granted, by adding the hidage of the city; +and, in 1106, Villula, then Bishop of Bath, conferred the whole on the +monastery of St. Peter. Henry paid a visit to Bath in the Easter of +1107. The city remained in the possession of the bishops until 1193, +when Savaric gave it to Richard I., in exchange for the rich Abbey of +Glastonbury. The prior, however, continued to hold the city under an +annual rent of thirty pounds, exclusive of the levies which were made by +the king on extraordinary emergencies. One of these occurred in the +forty-seventh year of Edward III., to the amount of L13. 6s. 8d., a sum +which conveys the idea of the inferiority of Bath, in point of +population, to Bristol, which paid seven times as much. Four years after +that period, the number of lay inhabitants in the city, above the age of +fourteen, amounted to 570, and that of the clerics, in the archdeaconry, +to 201. In this and succeeding reigns the property of the monastery was +greatly augmented; and the monks of Bath are said to have cultivated the +manufacture of cloth to such an extent as to render it one of the +principal cities in the west of England for that branch of trade. This +city sent Members to Parliament as early as 1297. Queen Elizabeth, in +1590, granted a charter, which declared Bath to be a city of itself, and +constituted a certain number of the citizens as a corporation, by "the +name of the Mayor, Aldermen, and Citizens of the City of Bath." In the +reign of James II. the corporation shut the gates against the Duke of +Monmouth, when he summoned them, and apprehended the few adherents to +his cause that remained within their walls. Six of these unfortunate +persons afterwards fell victims to the vindictive cruelty of Jefferies. +The Jacobite principles prevailed at Bath long after the revolution; and +Carte, the historian, is said to have headed a party in favour of the +pretender, during the rebellion of 1715. Being discovered, he leaped out +of a window in his canonicals, and fled. The city is nearly surrounded +by an amphitheatre of hills of considerable height. This range of hills +opens to allow a course for the Avon, which winds around it, receiving +numerous articles of merchandize, from hence conveyed in barges to +Bristol. Bath is divided into four parishes: St. Peter and St. Paul, St. +James, St. Michael, and Walcot, exclusive of the out parishes of +Bath-Hampton, Bath-Wick, Bath-Ford, and Bath-Easton. The parish of St. +Peter and St. Paul occupies the centre of the city, and formerly +contained two churches, the abbey church, and the church of St. Mary of +Stall, which stood on the spot of ground now occupied by the houses +connected with the Pump-room Piazza. The Abbey church of Bath is of that +class of architecture commonly denominated the Florid Gothic. It remains +in the same form as when finished in 1532. It was founded by Oliver +King, Bishop of Bath and Wells. It is in length, from east to west, 210 +feet; length of the cross aisles, from north to south, 126 feet; breadth +of the body and aisles, 72 feet; height of the tower, 152 feet; and the +height of the roof, or vaulting, 78 feet. The west window is of extreme +richness. The buttresses, on each side of the aisle windows, are +ornamented with rolls, containing inscriptions, not now legible, but are +said to contain the following allegorical allusion to the founder's +name, taken out of the book of Judges, chap. ix. verse 8:-- + + "Trees, going to choose their king, + Said--be to us the Olive king." + +[Sidenote: King Bladud.] + +[Sidenote: The discovery of the Baths.] + +[Sidenote: Bladud and his pigs.] + +[Sidenote: The Roman city.] + +[Sidenote: Their temples and baths.] + +[Sidenote: The monastery.] + +[Sidenote: Monks were clothiers.] + +[Sidenote: Cathedral and other churches.] + +The windows of this church, fifty-two in number, are supposed to have +given rise to its appellation of the Lantern of England. Here are +various monuments, ancient and modern, and a handsome altar-piece, +representing The Wise Men's Offering, given by General Wade. Here is +also a fine specimen of monumental architecture in the little chapel, or +oratory of Prior Bird, who died in 1525. This chapel has suffered much +from having its tracery despoiled, and a part of it cut away to make +room for a wooden seat, called the Bishop's Throne. One of the most +beautiful and conspicuous monuments which ornament the transepts and +nave is, that of Bishop Montague, at the north centre end of the nave. +It is an altar-tomb, over which the effigy of the prelate in his robes, +lies prostrate on its back. Opposite to this is a pillar, bearing a neat +monument, having on a pyramid of Sienna marble, a medallion, with a +half-length figure of the witty and celebrated Quin. On a tablet below +is the following inscription: + + "That tongue which set the table in a roar, + And charm'd the public ear, is heard no more: + Closed are those eyes, the harbingers of wit, + Which spake, before the tongue, what Shakspeare writ; + Cold is that hand, which living was stretch'd forth, + At friendship's call to succour modest worth. + Here lies James Quin:--Deign, reader, to be taught, + Whate'er thy strength of body, force of thought, + In nature's happiest mould however cast, + 'To this complexion thou must come at last.' D. GARRICK. + Ob. MDCCLXVI. Etatis LXXIII." + +[Sidenote: Quin's monumental inscription.] + +Near the last mentioned monument lies buried the celebrated Beau Nash, +long master of the ceremonies at Bath. Richard Nash was a native of +Swansea in Glamorganshire, and was born October 18, 1674. His parents +were in a respectable situation of life; and young Nash received a +competent classical education at Carmarthen school, from whence he was +sent to Jesus College, Oxford, at the early age of sixteen. He was +intended for the profession of the law; but this study was too dull and +dry for a person of his volatile turn. Pleasure was the goddess he +adored; and to whose service he devoted himself. He soon involved +himself in an intrigue with an artful female in Oxford, of which +description there are always numbers who are laying baits for young men +of family or personal appearance, and in consequence of this he was +removed from the University. His relations now purchased a pair of +colours for him in the army; and here his taste for gallantry and +dissipation would have been fully gratified, had not his inferior rank, +and the duties attached to it, subjected him to subordination and +restraint, which appeared intolerable to a man born for empire, and +whose ruling passion was too strong to submit to control. He, therefore, +left the army in disgust, and returned to the law, which he had +discarded, by entering himself a student of the Middle Temple. Soon +afterwards Nash was presented with an opportunity of exercising his +natural talents. It had been an ancient custom with the society to which +he now belonged, to entertain every new sovereign with a revel and a +pageant. On the accession of William, Prince of Orange, Nash was +selected as the most proper person to conduct this mighty business; and +he succeeded so well, that, it is said, William offered to knight him, +an honour which he declined. His abilities, however, had attracted +public notice, and this paved the way to his future success. Bath then +beginning to rise into some little repute as a place of fashionable +resort, Nash was induced to visit it in pursuit of pleasure, and soon +made himself conspicuous by his taste, wit, and gaiety. At this period, +it was the fashion for both sexes to bathe together quite naked, and for +ladies to adorn their heads before they entered the bath with all the +lures of dress. By these means their charms were set off to such +advantage, that the husband of a lady in the Cross Bath, who with Nash +and other spectators were admiring the female dabblers, told his wife +"she looked like an angel, and he wished to be with her." Nash seized +the favourable occasion to establish his reputation as a man of +gallantry and spirit, and therefore suddenly taking the gentleman by the +collar and the waistband of his breeches, soused him over the parapet +into the bath. The consequence was a duel, in which Nash was wounded in +the sword-arm; and, as it does not appear he was fond of fighting, it is +probable that this incident prompted him when he rose to power, to issue +his edict against wearing swords at Bath, "except by such as were not +entitled to wear them at any other place." About this time a vacancy +happening in the office of master of the ceremonies, a place hitherto of +little profit or honour, the well known talent of Nash for the direction +and invention of amusements, operated so much in his favour, that he was +chosen "arbiter elegantiarum," and invested with the fullest power to +order, arrange, and improve, the manner of the company, routine of +amusements, and points of etiquette. Under the equal administration of +Nash, no rank could protect the offender, nor any dignity of situation +influence him to connive at a breach of his laws. He deliberately +desired the Duchess of Queensbury, who appeared at a dress ball in an +apron, to take it off; and when the Princess Amelia requested to have +one dance more after eleven o'clock, he replied, that the laws of Bath, +like those of Lycurgus, were unalterable. This firmness of character was +attended with the most beneficial consequences; and Nash, not ignorant +what majesty is when stripped of its externals, took care by his dress +and equipage to support the rank he assumed. He wore a large white hat, +and drove a carriage with six greys, escorted by several persons on +horseback, and foot, with French horns and other kinds of musical +instruments. The Prince of Wales, the Prince of Orange, the nobility and +gentry, all treated him with respect; and the corporation, who might be +considered as his privy council, never took any steps without his fiat. +His prosperity was of long duration; and, if a man who supported himself +by gambling and intrigues, can be said to deserve prosperity, it was +justly due to this celebrated character: but at length age and +infirmities approached! and though Horace says, we should preserve +consistency to the last, it appeared ridiculous to see grey hairs and +decrepitude aping the gaiety and hilarity of youth. His admirers in +consequence fell off; and he lived to be sensible of the folly of a life +solely devoted to pleasure, and the vanity of pomp, whether real or +affected.--Beau Nash died February 3, 1761, and was buried at the +expence of the corporation, in the abbey church, with much pomp and +solemnity. The crowd that attended his funeral was so great, that not +only the streets were filled, but the very tops of the houses were +covered with spectators.--Amongst the places of worship for the +Dissenters, are the Unitarian chapel, in Trim Street; the Baptist +chapel, in Garrard Street; the Quaker's meeting-house on St. James's +Parade; the chapel of the Unitas Fratrum, or Moravians, in Monmouth +Street; a chapel belonging to the Wesleyan Methodists, in New King +Street; an Independant Calvinist chapel, in Argyle Street; a sort of +semi-episcopal chapel, in the connection of the late Countess of +Huntingdon, in Harlequin Row; and a Roman Catholic chapel in Orchard +Street. The original pump-room, began in 1704, was opened under the +auspices of Mr. Nash. Its object was to enable the drinkers to take +exercise without exposing themselves to the weather. The room was +enlarged in 1751; a portico, stretching from it in a northerly +direction, was added in 1786; and a superb western frontispiece in 1791. +Five years afterwards, Mr. Baldwin the architect, erected a new +pump-room on the site of the old one, on a more extensive and +magnificent scale. During the full season, a company of musicians +perform in the gallery every morning. Those who drink the waters, are +expected to pay about a guinea per month, besides a gratuity to the +pumper. The public baths are the King's Bath, and Queen's Bath, which +are connected with each other; the Hot Bath, and the Cross Bath. The +private baths are those belonging to the corporation, in Stall Street, +adjoining the King's Bath, built in 1788, with dry pumps, sudatories, +and every other accommodation; and the neat and convenient baths, called +the Duke of Kingston's, or the Abbey Baths, belonging to Earl Manvers. +The latter are supplied from the same source as the great pump-room. The +Bath springs are said to have three distinct sources, the King's Bath, +the Hot Bath, and the Cross Bath, which arise within a small distance of +each other. They contain a small quantity of carbonic acid gas, and also +of azotic gas; some sulphate of soda, and muriate of soda; selenite, +carbonate of lime; siliceous earth; and a portion of oxyd of iron. These +waters, taken internally, operate as a stimulant; they increase the +action of the blood-vessels, and promote the various secretions, +particularly those of urine and perspiration. The diseases in which +their external and internal uses render most service, are affections of +the liver and stomach, jaundice, hypochondriasis, and chlorosis. They +are especially efficacious in that state of gout termed atonic. The +external application of the water is highly beneficial in palsy, chronic +rheumatism, cutaneous diseases, scrofula, lameness, contractions, &c. +The water, in all cases, should if practicable, be drunk hot from the +pump. Its effect on the stomach and nerves are sometimes remarkably +speedy; persons who have lost their appetites and spirits by high +living, have, by using them a few days, recovered their powers of +digestion and cheerfulness of mind. The quantity taken is seldom more +than a pint and a half in the course of the day, and is divided into +three portions, two before breakfast, allowing half an hour between +them, and a third at noon. The condition of the patient is, however, to +be strictly attended to: and the quantity must be regulated at the +discretion of the physician. The General Hospital of this city was +established for the reception of all the sick poor in the united +kingdom, whose complaints require relief from the springs of the place; +excepting the resident poor, who have the advantage of taking the waters +at their own houses, at a moderate charge. Edward the Sixth granted +upwards of eighty tenements, gardens, &c. within the city and its +suburbs, for the purpose of founding a grammar-school at Bath, and +maintaining ten poor folk within the said town for ever. The Bath +Theatre is scarcely inferior to those of the metropolis. The present +building was erected about the year 1805, in the centre of the city; and +from its height, it forms a prominent object in the distance from all +its environs. There are three entrances; the grand front being in +Beaufort Square. The audience part is somewhat smaller than was that of +the late Covent Garden Theatre, but the space behind the curtain is much +larger. The length, within the main walls, is one hundred and twenty +feet; the breadth sixty feet; and the height seventy. The exterior +buildings are very extensive; there are three lofty tiers of boxes, +affording a depth of rows towards the centre. Cast iron bronzed pillars +are placed at a distance of two feet from the front, by which the first +row of each circle appears as a balcony, independent of the main +structure, and thus an inconceivable lightness is obtained. The private +boxes are inclosed with gilt lattices: the entrance to them is by a +private house, part of the property connected with the theatre, and they +are accommodated with a suite of retiring rooms. The decorations are +very splendid, particularly the ceiling. The Harmonic Society was +instituted under the patronage of Dr. Harrington; and there is another +musical society, called the York House Catch Club. The Sydney Garden +Vauxhall, at the extremity of Great Pulteney Street, abounds with +groves, vistas, lawns, serpentine walks, alcoves, bowling-greens, +grottoes and labyrinths. It is known to have contained four thousand +persons. The riding school affords the public, amusement in wet weather. +Lansdown races are in June and July. Besides the Public Library, the +circulating libraries are numerous and well supplied, and the harmonic +concerts and local institutions of a literary character, are easily +accessible. It is intended to convert the common fields in the +neighbourhood of Marlborough Buildings into a public park, laid out with +numerous rides and walks, ornamental fountains, and plantations. Hackney +coaches, and chariots, on the same principle as those used in London, +are established here. + + _Markets_, Wednesday and Saturday.--_Fairs_, February 14; (Holloway) + July 10; and Aug. 10, (Lansdown) for cattle, horses and all kinds of + merchandise. The Falmouth Mail arrives 7.54 morning, and departs 6.30 + afternoon. The Carmarthen Mail arrives 7.48 morning, and departs 6.56 + afternoon.--_Bankers_, (Bladud Bank) Tufnell and Co.; draw on Jones, + Lloyd and Co.; Tugwell and Co., draw on Barnard and Co.; (Old Bank) + Hobhouse and Co., draw on Jones, Lloyd and Co.; (City Bank) Smith and + Moger, draw on Barclay and Co.--_Inns_, York Hotel, White Hart, White + Lion, Greyhound, Castle, and Elephant and Castle. + +[Sidenote: Account of the celebrated Beau Nash.] + +[Sidenote: Refused to be knighted.] + +[Sidenote: Conduct of Nash towards the Princess Amelia.] + +[Sidenote: His death.] + +[Sidenote: Dissenting Chapels.] + +[Sidenote: Use of the waters in certain disorders.] + +[Sidenote: The Theatre.] + +[Sidenote: Sydney Gardens.] + + Map| Names of Places.| County. |Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ + 34|Bathampton pa|Somerset |Bath 2|Chippenham 11| + 34|Bathealton pa|Somerset |Wiveliscomb 3|Milverton 3| + 34|Batheaston[A] pa|Somerset |Bath 3|Chippenham 10| + 34|Bathford pa|Somerset | ... 4| ... 9| + 30|Bathley to|Nottingham|Newark 4|Muskham 1| + 34|Bathwick pa|Somerset |Bath 1|Chippenham 12| + 45|Batley pa & to|W.R. York |Wakefield 7|Leeds 8| + 15|Batsford pa|Gloucester|Moreton 2|Campden 4| + 35|Batterley ham|Stafford |Sandbach 8|Barthomley 1| + 43|Battersly ham|N.R. York |Stokesley 5|Gisborough 7| + 37|Battersea[B] pa|Surrey |Clapham 2|Putney 3| + 36|Battisford pa|Suffolk |Needham 2|Ipswich 4| + +--+-----------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places.|Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ + 34|Bathampton pa|Devizes 15| 104| 314| + 34|Bathealton pa|Wellington 5| 153| 98| + 34|Batheaston[A] pa|Devizes 14| 103| 1783| + 34|Bathford pa| ... 13| 102| 870| + 30|Bathley to|Southwell 7| 128| 197| + 34|Bathwick pa|Devizes 16| 105| 4035| + 45|Batley pa & to|Bradford 8| 189| 11335| + 15|Batsford pa|Stow 7| 88| 107| + 35|Batterley ham|Newcastle 8| 158| 242| + 43|Battersly ham|Helmsley 14| 242| 77| + 37|Battersea[B] pa|Hammersmith 3| 4| 5540| + 36|Battisford pa|Bildeston 8| 71| 436| + +--+-----------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BATHEASTON. This village is situated on the London road from Bath. +The upper part contains the church, and amongst some handsome houses, is +one which was formerly the residence of John Wood, Esq., the ingenious +architect, to whom Bath owes many of its noblest buildings. The church +is antique. At the west-end it has a fine square tower, one hundred feet +high. The inside is remarkable for its neat and decent appearance. A +custom long observed at the villa of Sir John Millar, Bart., displays +his elegance and refinement in the choice of his amusements, as well as +of his visitors. He had purchased an antique vase, discovered at +Frescati, in Italy, in 1759; and having placed it in a room convenient +for the purpose, he consecrated it to Apollo, and ordained Lady Miller, +high priestess. He then issued a general invitation to all votaries of +the muses, to assemble on a certain day in each week, and offer their +poetical oblations at the shrine; the degree of merit each possessed was +decided by the public voice, and the author of the best was crowned with +myrtle. A collation succeeded. This attic pastime continued for some +years, till some witling contaminated the purity of the urn by a +licentious composition, and the vessel was closed for ever. Two small +volumes of these effusions have been published. + +[Sidenote: The vase of Apollo.] + + +[B] BATTERSEA is seated on the Thames, and gives the title of Baron to +the family of St. John. The church contains many monuments, chiefly of +the above noble family; particularly one in grey marble, to the memory +of the celebrated statesman, Henry St. John, Viscount Bolingbroke, and +of his second wife, whose profiles are sculptured in bass-relief. A +monument near the south wall, represents Sir Edward Wynter in the act of +performing two extraordinary exploits, thus described in his epitaph:-- + + Alone, unarmed, a tyger he oppressed, + And crush'd to death the monster of a beast. + Twice twenty mounted Moors he overthrew, + Singly on foot, some wounded, some he slew, + Dispersed the rest--what more could Sampson do? + +A neat tablet, at the east end of the church, commemorates Thomas Astle, +who was long a distinguished member of the Society of Antiquaries, +Keeper of the Records in the Tower, a Trustee of the British Museum, and +author of Treatise "on the Origin and Progress of Writing." He died in +1802, and left a valuable collection of manuscripts. Here are also +interred, Arthur Collins, Esq., known as the author of an "Historical +Account of the Peers and Baronets of England;" William Curtis, author of +the "Flora Londinensis," and the Rev. Joseph Gardner, author of "Views +on the Rhine," and otherwise distinguished by his attachment to the +arts. Bolingbroke House was a spacious edifice, said to have contained +fifty rooms on a floor, of which a few only remain; among which is the +favourite apartment of Lord Bolingbroke, wainscotted with cedar. A +horizontal air-mill now occupies the site of this mansion, and in the +gardens have been erected bullock-houses. Sherwood Lodge, near the +Thames, is the residence of James Wolf, Esq. whose valuable collection +of plaster-casts, from antique statues, are deposited in a gallery of +Doric architecture, remarkable for the purity of its style. A wooden +bridge was built over the Thames at this place, in 1771. + +[Sidenote: Sir E. Wynter's exploits.] + +[Sidenote: Bolingbroke house.] + + Map| Names of Places. |County.| Number of Miles From | + +--+-------------------+-------+-------------+-------------+ + 38|Battle[A] m.t. & pa|Sussex |Tunbridge 26|Hastings 8| + 48|Battle[B] pa|Brecon |Brecon 3|Trecastle 9| + +--+-------------------+-------+-------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-------------------+---------------------+-----+-------+ + 38|Battle[A] m.t. & pa|Bexhill 6| 56| 2999| + 48|Battle[B] pa|Builth 15| 174| 192| + +--+-------------------+--------------------+------+-------+ + + +[A] BATTLE, anciently called Epiton, derived its present denomination +from the conflict between William the Norman, and Harold Harefoot, which +decided the fate of these realms, and gave to the former the surname of +Conqueror. This engagement happened on the 14th of October, 1066, and +continued from morning until sunset, when the Normans had sustained a +loss of 15000 men, and the English four times that number, among whom +was their king. The Conqueror, grateful for his victory, and in +performance of a vow, commenced the foundation of an abbey on that part +of the field where the battle had raged most fiercely, causing the high +altar to be raised on the spot where the body of his valiant antagonist; +or, as others say, his standard had been found. This abbey was dedicated +to St. Martin, and the privileges enjoyed by the superiors within its +precincts were almost regal; an exclusive right of inquest in cases of +murder--the property of all treasure discovered there--free warren and +exemption, even for their tenants, from all ecclesiastical +jurisdiction--right of sanctuary for their church in cases of +homicide--and the power of pardoning any condemned thief whom they +should meet going to execution. From the foundation of this abbey, till +its dissolution, it was governed by thirty-one abbots. Sometime after +the latter period, it was the property of the Montagues, who sold it to +Sir Thomas Webster, and that gentleman made it his residence. Sir +Godfrey Webster, Bart., is the present owner. In its present state, +Battle Abbey bears ample testimony to its ancient magnificence, the +ruins being extensive, and exhibiting a mixture of the light Norman with +the solid Saxon architecture. These remains occupy two sides of a +quadrangle, of which one is an ancient gateway. Nine elegant arches, now +filled up, are all that remain of the church. Two detached buildings, +supposed to have been refectories, are now converted into offices. The +town of Battle consists of one street, and has a handsome church, the +windows of which are embellished with stained glass. The chancel +contains a fine altar-monument to the memory of Sir Anthony Browne, +armour-bearer to Henry VIII. This place is celebrated for a manufacture +of gunpowder, inferior only to that at Dartford. + + _Market_, Thursday.--_Fairs_, Whit-Monday; Nov. 22, cattle and + pedlary; second Tuesday in every month, cattle.--_Bankers_, Smith, + Gill, and Co., draw on Spooner and Co.--_Mail_ arrives 4.20 morning; + departs 9.40 afternoon.--_Inn_, George. + +[Sidenote: The Abbey.] + + +[B] BATTLE. The church is placed upon an eminence on the east side of +the Escir river. It is a low edifice surrounded by a cemetry, bounded by +a wall. A few straggling houses give this place the name of a village. +History has fixed this spot as the scene of action where the fate of +Brecknockshire was decided, upon its attack by Bernard Newmarch. The +vestiges which indicate such an event, are, a well called Ffynon Pen +Rhys; a lane called Heol y Cymri, and a long upright stone below the +church on the south side; no other vestiges remain to recall the event. +Half a mile eastward from Battle, appears the stately residence of the +vicar of Llandevalle. Upon the wall of an inner court is an inscription +in Latin. From the windows of this house are three most beautiful views; +on the east side through a small vista, are seen the village of +Llanddew, and in the back ground the black mountain beyond Talgarth. +From the library, in which is a capital picture of our Saviour bearing +the Cross, by Correggio, looking west, is the vale of Usk, with the +highly ornamented grounds above Penpont; beyond which, Abercamlais, and +the mountains in Llywel and Devynock close the scene. Nearly opposite is +the gradually rising knoll of Benni, covered to the top on all sides +with wood, beyond which appear the precipitous and majestic summits of +the Beacons. Merthyr Cynog, or Saint Cynog, lies about four miles north. +Cynog or Canoc, was the illegitimate son of Brychan Brecheinog. He was +slain or murdered in one of the early eruptions of the Saxons into +Wales, in the 5th century, on the summit of a hill in this parish, +nearly opposite Castlemadoc, called Vanoleu, and according to Owen, was +buried in Merthyr church. The edifice which remains, does not appear to +be of an earlier date than the Norman era; it is situated upon a lofty +ridge between the vales of Escir fawr and Escir fechan, in nearly the +centre of the parish. It resembles a large barn, in which are some +divisions, like pens for sheep, thrown in disorder to rot, when unfit +for use. + +[Sidenote: Scene of a Welsh battle.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. |Number of Miles From | + +--+--------------------+----------+--------------+-------------+ + 25|Battle Bridge ham|Middlesex |Holborn Bars 1|Paddington 2| + 3|Battleden[A] pa|Bedford |Woburn 3|Hockliffe 2| + 33|Battlefield[B] pa|Salop |Shrewsbury 4|Wem 9| + 16|Baughurst pa|Hants |Basingstoke 7|Kingsclere 3| + 4|Baulking ham|Berks |Farringdon 4|Wantage 6| + 34|Baumber pa|Lincoln |Horncastle 6|Wragby 8| + 15|Baunton pa|Glocester |Cirencester 2|Northleach 9| + 56|Bauseley to|Montgomery|Welch Pool 10|Shrewsbury 12| + 41|Baverstock pa|Wilts |Wilton 4|Salisbury 7| + 29|Bavington, Great to|Northumb |Hexham 12|Bellingham 12| + 29|Bavington, Little to|Northumb | ... 11| ... 12| + +--+--------------------+----------+--------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+--------------------+-------------------------+-----+-------+ + 25|Battle Bridge ham|Hoxton 2| 1| | + 3|Battleden[A] pa|Leighton 4| 39| 145| + 33|Battlefield[B] pa|Shawbury 4| 155| 70| + 16|Baughurst pa|Newbury 11| 54| 434| + 4|Baulking ham|Lambourne 7| 66| 185| + 34|Baumber pa|Louth 12| 141| 356| + 15|Baunton pa|Gloucester 17| 91| 144| + 56|Bauseley to|Oswestry 11| 165| 365| + 41|Baverstock pa|Shaftesbury 13| 292| 166| + 29|Bavington, Great to|Newcastle 20| 88| 70| + 29|Bavington, Little to| ... 2| 291| 72| + +--+--------------------+-------------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BATTLEDEN lies between the two great north-western roads. The family +of Firmband, or Fremband, twice represented the county in parliament, as +early as the reign of Edward III. In the reign of Elizabeth it became +the property of the Duncombes; and it is to one of this family that we +are indebted for the accommodation of the now antiquated sedans, or +close chairs; and in the year 1634, Duncombe is said to have procured a +patent, which vested in him and his heirs the right of carrying persons +"up and down in them," for a certain term. "It is probable, (observes +Lysons,) that Sir Saunders, who was a great traveller, had seen them at +Sedan, where Dr. Johnson, supposes that they were first made; and it is +remarkable that Captain Bayley first introduced the use of Hackney +Coaches in the same year." In the year 1706, this manor was purchased by +Allen Bathurst, Esq., a distinguished political character during the +reigns of Queen Anne and George I. It was for many years the country +seat of Lord Bathurst, and the resort of a celebrated constellation of +wits, of whom he was the patron and friend. + +[Sidenote: The invention of Sedan chairs.] + + +[B] BATTLEFIELD is a parish in the liberties of Shrewsbury, and derives +its name from a sanguinary battle which was fought there on Saturday the +21st of July, 1403, between Henry the Fourth and the Rebels, under +Percy, Earl of Nothumberland, and in which Lord Henry Percy, well known +as the valiant Hotspur, was slain, together with nearly 2300 gentlemen +and others, and upwards of 600 common soldiers fell on that memorable +occasion. After this signal victory, Henry the fourth caused a +collegiate church to be erected on the spot for secular canons, which +was dedicated to Saint Mary Magdalene, the battle having been fought on +the anniversary of that day. This college was dissolved in the general +wreck of establishments of this kind, when its revenues amounted to L54 +10s. 4d. per annum; it is now the parish church. At the east end, over +the altar window, is a figure of Henry the Fourth, much defaced by the +corroding hand of time. In a niche in the south wall, is a rude carving +in wood of the Virgin and child; and in the east window are still to be +traced some mutilated remains of stained glass; but the most interesting +object in this church, is a splendid gothic monument, recently erected +to the memory of the late John Corbet, Esq. of Sundorne. This beautiful +specimen of architecture is called the Tudor gothic; the interior +represents the miniature aisle of a cathedral or cloister, with its +elaborately groined roof, and the front is adorned by the heraldic +blazonings of the family. This fine and highly prized piece of art was +designed by the Rev. Archdeacon Owen, of Shrewsbury, and most admirably +executed by Messrs. Carline of that town, in a warmly tinted fine +grained stone, from the Grinshill quarries in the neighbourhood. + +[Sidenote: Battle between Henry the Fourth and Percy of Northumberland.] + +[Sidenote: Splendid monument.] + + Map|Names of Places.| County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------+---------+-------------+--------------+ + 27|Bawburgh pa|Norfolk |Norwich 5|Wymondham 5| + 27|Bawdeswell pa|Norfolk |Reepham 4|Swanton 3| + 34|Bawdrip pa|Somerset |Bridgewater 4|Glastonbury 11| + 36|Bawdsey pa|Suffolk |Woodbridge 8|Orford 10| + 27|Bawsey pa|Norfolk |Lynn 3|Cas. Rising 4| + 46|Bawtry[A] m.t.|W.R. York|Doncaster 9|E. Retford 8| + 39|Baxterly pa|Warwick |Atherstone 5|Tamworth 7| + 41|Baydon pa|Wilts |Ramsbury 4|Lambourne 4| + 27|Bayfield pa|Norfolk |Holt 2|Cley 2| + 18|Bayford pa|Herts |Hertford 4|Hatfield 6| + 34|Bayford pa|Somerset |Wincaunton 1|Bourton 3| + 36|Bayleham pa|Suffolk |Needham 3|Ipswich 7| + 22|Bayley to|Lancaster|Clitheroe 6|Blackburn 7| + 25|Bayswater[B] ham|Middlesex|Tyburn 1|Acton 4| + +--+----------------+---------+-------------+--------------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places.|Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+ + 27|Bawburgh pa|E. Dereham 12| 105| 440| + 27|Bawdeswell pa| 7| 107| 587| + 34|Bawdrip pa|Stowey 12| 136| 373| + 36|Bawdsey pa|Ipswich 13| 80| 454| + 27|Bawsey pa|Middleton 3| 99| 39| + 46|Bawtry[A] m.t.|Gainsboro' 13| 153| 1149| + 39|Baxterly pa|Coleshill 7| 111| 189| + 41|Baydon pa|Swindon 10| 69| 358| + 27|Bayfield pa|Wells 10| 122| 17| + 18|Bayford pa|Hoddesdon 5| 21| 332| + 34|Bayford pa|Mere 6| 107| | + 36|Bayleham pa|Bildeston 9| 72| 238| + 22|Bayley to|Preston 12| 219| | + 25|Bayswater[B] ham|Southall 8| 1| | + +--+----------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+ + + +[A] BAWTRY is a small town situated on the edge of Yorkshire, adjoining +Nottinghamshire. It is handsome and well built; and the high street, +through which lies the great North Road from London to Edinburgh, is +very broad, and contains some elegant houses. At the upper part of this +street is the market-place, in which are some excellent shambles. The +town stands on a gentle but pleasant eminence, which slopes from the +north and east down to the river Idle, which river is navigable to this +place for small craft. On the western side of the town the ground is +high and exceedingly pleasant, but the eastern, or marshy side, is +subject to frequent winter inundations. The object which most travellers +consider more especially worthy of attention, is the elegant mansion of +the Viscountess Galway. The edifice is built of brick and is pleasantly +situated at the southern extremity of the town; it has an extensive and +handsome front, but a high brick wall secludes it from public view. The +pleasure grounds which are kept in excellent condition, are stocked with +Chinese pheasants, and other rare and curious birds. Near this place the +Archbishops of York had a palace; and at this mansion, Archbishop +Savage, in the time of Henry VII. delighted to take his pleasure in +hunting; and in the next reign it was the residence of Cardinal Wolsey. +The palace stood in a very low and damp situation, close to the +confluence of the small river Ryton with the Idle. The great gateway, +and the porter's lodge, were taken down towards the end of the last +century, and what remains of the palace has been converted into a farm +house. + + _Market_, Saturday.--_Fairs_, Whit-Tuesday; and November 22, for + cattle and horses.--_Inn_, Crown--_Mail_ arrives 2.0 afternoon; + departs 11.30 morning. + +[Sidenote: Seat of the Viscountess Galway.] + + +[B] BAYSWATER is situated on the Oxford Road, and is the first place +passed after leaving London; it has been much increased of late by the +building of new streets and genteel residences. A reservoir, under the +same management as the water works of Chelsea, is in the neighbourhood. +Bayswater Tea Gardens were formerly the Botanic gardens of Sir John +Hill, who cultivated there his medicinal plants, and prepared his Water +Dock, Essence, and Balsam of Honey. The reservoir before mentioned, was +intended for the supply of the palace at Kensington, and the bason +before the palace was to be kept constantly full by the proprietors; +and, it was upon this condition that the property was granted them. It +now supplies that part of the city estates situated in about +Bond-street, with water. + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ + 14|Baythorne End |Essex |Haverhill 4|Ridgewell 2| + 42|Bayton pa|Worcester |Bewdley 6|Tenbury 8| + 57|Bayvill pa|Pembroke |Newport 3|Cardigan 9| + 4|Bayworth ham|Berks |Abingdon 2|Oxford 4| + 5|Beachampton[A] pa|Bucks |Buckingham 6|Stratford 3| + 27|Beachamwell pa|Norfolk |Swaffham 6|Stoke Ferry 6| + 18|Beaches ham|Herts |Buntingford 7|Standon 7| + 15|Beachley[B] ham|Gloucester|Chepstow 3|Bristol 13| + 27|Beacon |Norfolk |Cromer 6|Lt. Houses 10| + 5|Beaconsfield[C] to & pa|Bucks |Uxbridge 8|Wycombe 6| + +--+-----------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ + 14|Baythorne End |G. Yeldham 5| 55| | + 42|Bayton pa|Mamble 2| 130| 445| + 57|Bayvill pa|Fishguard 10| 248| 160| + 4|Bayworth ham|Cumnor 5| 58| | + 5|Beachampton[A] pa|Newport 9| 53| 254| + 27|Beachamwell pa|Marham 5| 94| 263| + 18|Beaches ham|Barkway 6| 32| | + 15|Beachley[B] ham|Monmouth 18| 131| | + 27|Beacon |Bacton 5| 135| | + 5|Beaconsfield[C] to & pa|Amersham 6| 23| 1763| + +--+-----------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BEACHAMPTON. The remains of the mansion of the Bennetts have been +converted into a farm-house, but the great hall is still standing. In +the parish church are some monuments of this family; among which there +is one to the memory of Sir Simon Bennett, who was created a baronet in +1627, and is recorded in history as having been a great friend to the +poor, and to University College, Oxford. This monument, it appears, was +set up by the college 100 years after his death, and great blame is +imputed to them for having delayed it so long. Mr. William Elmer, by his +will, bearing date 1648, founded a free grammar school in this parish. +The school-house was finished in 1667. The master, by an express clause +in the founder's will, must be a single man, and is to reside in the +school-house. It is endowed with lands, which are charged with the +payment of a certain pension of L2. per annum, to eight poor men, and +L1. per annum to as many poor women; and it is further provided, that +three of each of these shall be inhabitants of this parish. + +[Sidenote: Free grammar school.] + + +[B] BEACHLEY from its almost insulated situation, has always been of +great importance in a military point of view, for there are extensive +earthworks of British origin still remaining. Offa's-dyke, which +terminates here, is still to be traced. In the civil wars this place was +considered of much importance, for Prince Rupert despatched a body of +500 horse and foot to occupy and fortify it. But history relates, that +even before the fortifications were completed, the garrison was +dislodged with great loss, by Governor Massie. After this, a battle was +fought between the royalists and the parliamentary forces, under Sir +John Wyntor, when the latter was defeated with the loss of 220 men; and +it is currently reported that he himself was forced to leap from the +cliff into the river Severn, where a small boat lay ready to receive +him; it is certain the place still goes by the name of "Wyntor's leap." +The ferry over the river Severn has been before mentioned at page 63. +Here is an inn called Beachley Passage House Inn. The time of high water +is nearly the same as at Bristol Quay, and is always to be seen in the +Bristol Newspapers. If the wind be northerly, this passage may be +crossed for five hours before high-water; and if the wind be southerly +or westerly, it may be passed for seven hours after high-water. + +[Sidenote: Once a place of great importance.] + +[Sidenote: Waller, the poet.] + + +[C] BEACONSFIELD is a small place, although it is one of great +thoroughfare, but the market is almost wholly disused; in fact, Wycombe +and Uxbridge appear to have drawn away the business. The manor, +anciently an estate of the Windsors, afterwards became the property of +the Monks of Burnham Abbey, a building but a few miles distant. Edmund +Waller, the poet, was born at Coleshill, in this neighbourhood, at which +place see his life; he was proprietor of the very pleasing seat, called +Hall Barns, an ancient mansion belonging to the family; he lies buried +in the churchyard, and a monument has been erected to his memory, with a +latin inscription, too long and too dry to be given in our work. +Gregories, in this parish, was the seat of the celebrated Edmund Burke, +who, for critical taste and brilliancy of language, will ever be ranked +amongst the most fascinating of English writers. His company was sought +for by all who could make the slightest pretension to kindred genius. He +died in this town, and was buried in the church, where a marble tablet +is set up, with a short inscription, to his memory. The apartments at +Butler's Court, formerly Gregories, contained some fine paintings, by +Sir Joshua Reynolds, and some valuable marbles. This seat, we believe, +came into the possession of Mr. Burke through the friendship of Lord +Verney and the Marquis of Rockingham, by whose munificence he was +enabled to purchase it. The widow of the late Mr. Burke continued to +reside at Butler's Court till the period of her death, which took place +a few years after that of her late husband; the mansion and estate was +afterwards purchased by James Dupre, Esq., who let the house to the +master of a boarding-school, and in whose occupation it was destroyed by +fire: the grounds have since been adapted to the purpose of agriculture. +For the following interesting sketch of the illustrious and +distinguished statesman, (Burke,) we are indebted to Dr. Watkin's +Biographical Dictionary:--"He was born at Dublin, in 1730. His father +was an attorney, and a Protestant. The son received his education under +Abraham Shackleton, a Quaker, who kept a school at Ballytore, near +Carlow, and it is recorded to the honour of Mr. Burke, that whenever he +visited Ireland he always paid his respects to his old tutors: in 1746 +he entered as a scholar at Trinity College, which he left on taking his +bachelor's degree in 1749, and soon after became candidate for the +professorship of logic at Glasgow, but did not succeed. In 1753 he +entered of the Middle Temple, where he applied more to general +literature than to the law, and supported himself by writing for the +booksellers. Falling ill, through too close an application to his +studies, he removed to the house of Dr. Nugent, a physician, whose +daughter he afterwards married. In 1756 he published a pamphlet, +entitled, "A Vindication of Natural Society." This piece was purposely +drawn up in the manner of Lord Bolingbroke, and for a time imposed upon +the friends of that writer as his real productions. His next performance +was the Essay on the Sublime and Beautiful, published in 1757. This +philosophical piece of criticism, written in a fine and elegant style, +procured the author a great reputation, and the esteem of the first +literary characters of the age; the principal of whom was Dr. Johnson. +In 1758, he suggested to Mr. Dodsley, the bookseller, the plan of the +"Annual Register," the historical part of which he wrote for several +years. In 1761 he went to Ireland as the companion of his friend Mr. +Hamilton, secretary to the Earl of Halifax, then Lord-Lieutenant. That +gentleman, who was generally known by the name of Single-speech +Hamilton, from the circumstance of his making only one speech in +parliament, but one of uncommon eloquence, procured him a pension of +L300. on the Irish establishment. On his return from Ireland he was made +private secretary to the Marquis of Rockingham, First Lord of the +Treasury, who brought him into parliament for Wendover. The Rockingham +party continued in power but a short time, and on going out of office, +Mr. Burke wrote a forcible pamphlet upon the subject, entitled, "A Short +Account of a Short Administration;" after which, he became an active +member of the opposition, as a senator and also as a writer. A pamphlet +of his, entitled, "Thoughts on the Causes of the present Discontents," +excited considerable interest as a bold exposure of court intrigues and +favourites, in controlling the operations of ministers. In the struggle +between Great Britain and the colonies, Mr. Burke bore a distinguished +part as an opponent to the ministry. His speeches were vehement, and had +so powerful an influence upon the people, that the citizens of Bristol, +in 1774, invited him to be one of their representatives, without his +being at the least expense. But at the next election in 1780, he was +rejected by them for having supported the Irish petition for a free +trade, and the bill for relieving Roman Catholics. He was then returned +for Malton, in Yorkshire. At this time he gained great popularity by his +introduction of a bill for a reform in the national expenditure, on +which he spent prodigious labour, but it was unsuccessful. When the +Marquis of Rockingham returned to power on the resignation of Lord +North, in 1782, Mr. Burke obtained the post of Paymaster-general of the +Forces, and a seat in the Privy Council; but this was of short duration, +for on the death of his patron, Lord Shelbourne became First Lord of the +Treasury, and Mr. Burke, with several of his friends, resigned their +places. In the coalition, which for a little while succeeded the +Shelbourne administration, Mr. Burke had his share both of emolument and +abuse. The leading particulars of his political life, after this, were +his exertions against Mr. Hastings, in which he manifested uncommon +industry to fasten guilt upon that gentleman, with no small share of +personal asperity; his vigorous opposition to Mr. Pitt's design of +forming a limited regency on the King's illness in 1788; and above all, +his ardour against the actors and defenders of the French revolution. On +the latter subject he evinced peculiar sagacity at the outset, and when +many worthy men were rejoicing at the prospect of rising liberty and +happiness to the world, Mr. Burke predicted, with remarkable precision, +the desolation, bloodshed, anarchy, and misery which ensued. He +displayed his detestation of the revolutionists in the House of Commons, +and separated himself in consequence from Mr. Fox, and many other of his +old associates. In 1790 he published his famous "Reflections on the +Revolution in France," which attracted wonderful attention, and produced +a surprising effect upon the public mind. Many publications appeared in +answer to this book; the most noted of which was Paine's pamphlet, +entitled "The Rights of Man," wherein the principles of republicanism +were so artfully addressed to the feelings of ordinary persons, as to +excite for a time no small alarm to the friends of government. Mr. +Burke, after this, published a variety of pamphlets in support of his +positions: as, "A Letter to a Member of the National Assembly;" "An +Appeal from the New Whigs to the Old;" "Thoughts on a Regicide peace," +&c. His zeal on this occasion, as well as his extraordinary talents, +recommended him to the royal favour, and he obtained a pension, which +gave room for those who had been galled by his arguments, to reproach +him, and some illiberal animadversions were made upon him in the senate, +which drew from him that admirable defence, his "Letter to a Noble +Lord," in which he retaliates upon a celebrated Duke in a strain of keen +irony and dignified remonstrance. Mr. Burke withdrew from parliament in +1794, leaving his seat for Malton to his son, an accomplished young man, +who died shortly after. This melancholy event hastened his death, which +happened the 8th of July, 1797. A little before his death he caused to +be read to him Addison's paper in the Spectator, on the Immortality of +the Soul. Mr. Burke was very amiable in his private life, of correct +deportment, faithful in his attachments; charitable to the poor, and +religious without being superstitious. He had a fine taste for the arts, +and was fond of gardening and architecture," Bulstrode, the seat of the +Duke of Portland, is within three miles of the town; a more detailed +account of this elegant mansion will be given in a future portion of our +work. + + _Market_, Wednesday.--_Fairs_, Feb. 13; and Holy Thursday, for + horses, cows, and sheep.--_Mail_ arrives 11.10 night; departs, 3.30 + morning.--_Inn_, Saracen's Head. + +[Sidenote: The celebrated Edmund Burke.] + +[Sidenote: Sketch of his life.] + +[Sidenote: Burke's reflections on the French revolution, &c.] [Sidenote: +His death.] + + Map|Names of Places.| County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------+----------+------------+------------+ + 43|Beadlam to|N.R. York |Helmesley 3|Kirkby 2| + 29|Beadnell to|Northumb |Belford 9|Aluwick 13| + 11|Beaford pa|Devon |Torrington 5|Chumleigh 10| + 45|Beaghall to|W.R. York |Pontefract 6|Snaith 7| + 21|Beaksbourne pa|Kent |Canterbury 4|Wingham 3| + 29|Beal ham|Durham |Belford 8|Berwick 8| + +--+----------------+----------+------------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places.| Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------+-----------------------+-----+------+ + 43|Beadlam to|Gillamoor 3| 225| 157| + 29|Beadnell to|Ellingham 8| 321| 251| + 11|Beaford pa|Hatherleigh 9| 200| 624| + 45|Beaghall to|Selby 6| 178| 563| + 21|Beaksbourne pa|Dover 2| 59| 351| + 29|Beal ham|Wooler 2| 330| 70| + +--+----------------+-----------------------+-----+------+ + + Map| Names of Places. | County. |Number of Miles from | + +--+------------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ + 36|Bealing, Great pa|Suffolk |Woodbridge 3|Ipswich 7| + 36|Bealing, Little pa|Suffolk |... 4|... 6| + 34|Beamhurst ..|Stafford |Cheadle 7|Uttoxeter 3| + 12|Beaminster,[A] m.t. & ch|Dorset |Dorchester 18|Bridport 6| + 13|Beamish to|Durham |Gateshead 6|Durham 6| + 45|Beamsley to|W.R. York |Skipton 6|Addingham 2| + 29|Beanley to|Northumb. |Alnwick 8|Wooler 9| + 10|Beard to|Derby |Ashton 8|Manchester 15| + 37|Bear Green ..|Surrey |Dorking 4|Horsham 9| + 39|Bearly pa|Warwick |Stratford 4|Warwick 8| + 21|Bearsted pa|Kent |Maidstone 3|Milton 10| + 33|Bearston to|Salop |Drayton 4|Eccleshall 9| + 10|Bearward-Cote to|Derby |Derby 6|Sudbury 8| + 40|Beathwaite Green, ham|Westmorlnd|Kendal 6|Millthorpe 3| + 10|Beauchief Abbey, e.p.l|Derby |Sheffield 4|Dronfield 4| + 39|Beaudesert[B] pa|Warwick |Henley 1|Stratford 9| + +--+------------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles from |Lond.|Population. + +--+------------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ + 36|Bealing, Great pa|Wickham 8| 76| 367| + 36|Bealing, Little pa|... 9| 75| 272| + 34|Beamhurst ..|Checkley 2| 139| | + 12|Beaminster,[A] m.t. & ch|Crewkerne 7| 141| 2968| + 13|Beamish to|Sunderland 10| 265| 1848| + 45|Beamsley to|Otley 10| 215| 279| + 29|Beanley to|Belford 11| 314| 169| + 10|Beard to|Sheffield 23| 177| 283| + 37|Bear Green ..|Capel 2| 28| | + 39|Bearly pa|Henley 5| 97| 230| + 21|Bearsted pa|Chatham 9| 37| 594| + 33|Bearston to|Nantwich 12| 157| 95| + 10|Bearward-Cote to|Uttoxeter 13| 130| | + 40|Beathwaite Green, ham|Burton 7| 258| | + 10|Beauchief Abbey, e.p.l|Chesterfield 10| 160| 85| + 39|Beaudesert[B] pa|Birmingham 16| 102| 199| + +--+------------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BEAMINSTER is a town of very great antiquity; it is situated on a +fertile spot near the banks of the small river Birt. The prebendaries of +Salisbury were formerly lords of the manor, until the parliamentary +commissioners (who appear to have made very free with church property) +seized it, and for a time it passed into other hands, but it was only +for a time: the right at length became acknowledged, and in the +possession of the prebendaries of Sarum it now remains. This town has +suffered much by the devastation of fire, and still more by the +destructive sword of civil, or rather uncivil, warfare. Britton speaks +of a record of the former being preserved in a blank leaf of an old +Bible, in the possession of a gentleman of this town, which memorandum +ran as follows:--"The towne of Beaminster was burnt on Palme Sunday, +being the 14th day of April, and in the year of our Lord 1644. At the +same time prince Maurice, being in the towne seven dayes before the +fire, and there continued till the fire burnt him out of his quarters. +The fire was first kindled in John Sergeant's house, in North-street; it +was a musket discharged in the gable; and it was wild-fire, and the +winde lying directly with the towne, the whole place was destroyed in +two hours; and those goods for the most part which were saved out of the +fire were carried away by the soldiers. There were seven score and four +dwelling-houses, besides barns and stables, burnt." An eye-witness in +Sir Thomas Fairfax's army describes it as "a place of the pitifullest +spectacle that man can behold; hardly a house left not consumed by +fire." Two thousand pounds were granted by the parliament to assist in +re-building the town: this, with other sums, raised by the neighbouring +gentry, answered the purpose. But it appears that the place was doomed +to destruction, for in June, 1684, it was again consumed, and the loss +is said to have amounted to L10,000.: nor did its misfortunes end here, +for in the gusty month of March, in the year 1781, upwards of fifty +dwelling-houses, besides barns, stables, and other buildings, were +reduced to ruins in the short space of three hours. Mrs. Tucker founded +a free-school here, in 1684, for the purpose of affording education to +twenty of the poorest boys in the town; three or four of these boys were +to be apprenticed annually, and it is necessary that one of these, at +least, should become a seaman. The Rev. Mr. Samuel Hood, father of Lord +Hood, was master of this school in the year 1715. The inhabitants are +principally engaged in the manufacture of sail-cloth, and in the +production of iron, tin, and copper ware. The work-house is a large +commodious building; formerly an alms-house. + + _Market_, Thursday.--_Fairs_, April 4; September 19, for horses, + sheep, and cattle. + +[Sidenote: Destroyed by fire in 1644.] + +[Sidenote: Burnt down in 1684, and again in 1781.] + + +[B] BEAUDESERT. This place is situated in the hundred of Barlichway. The +church is dedicated to St. Nicholas, and exhibits some good specimens of +ancient architecture. The village was the birth-place of Richard Jago, +the poet, who was the son of the rector: he was born in 1715, and was +educated at Solihull grammar-school, about eleven miles distant from +this place. His first poetical production which attracted notice was an +"Elegy on the Death of a Blackbird," and this was followed by a poem, +descriptive of the "Battle of Edgehill," which is considered the most +finished of his works: the subject was in all probability suggested by +his residence in the neighbourhood of the scene of action. He died on +the 8th of April, 1781. + + Map|Names of Places. |County. |Number of Miles from | + +--+------------------+---------+--------------+-----------+ + 16|Beaulieu[A] pa. |Hants |Lymington 7|Hythe 5| + 23|Beau Manor ex. pl.|Leicester|Mount Sorrel 3|Loughboro 3| + +--+------------------+---------+--------------+-----------+ + |Dist. | + Map|Names of Places. |Number of Miles from |Lond. |Population. + +--+------------------+------------------------+------+----+ + 16|Beaulieu[A] pa. |Southampton 7| 82|1298| + 23|Beau Manor ex. pl.|Leicester 8| 106| 98| + +--+------------------+------------------------+------+----+ + + +[A] BEAULIEU. The river Exe, over which there is a bridge, is navigable +up to this village. Here is a manufacture of coarse sacking. The ruins +of Beaulieu Abbey are beautifully situated on the eastern banks of the +river. The delightful valley which surrounds these venerable remains, is +of a circular form, bounded by well-wooded hills, and in itself, +consists of a rich variety of ground. The Abbey was founded, A.D. 1204, +by King John, for monks of the Cistercian order; a class of friars to +which that monarch had been previously particularly adverse. The king, +it is said, after various oppressive measures exercised against the +Cistercians, summoned the Abbots and principals of that order, to +Lincoln, whither they hastened, flattering themselves that he would +there confer upon them some marks of his grace and favor. Instead of +this, say the monkish historians, "the savage monarch ordered the Abbots +to be trodden to death, by horses: but none of his attendants being +found sufficiently cruel to obey the sanguinary command, the +ecclesiastics, dreadfully alarmed, retired hastily to their inn. In the +course of the ensuing night, when the monarch slumbered on his bed, he +dreamt that he was standing before a Judge, accompanied by the +Cistercian Abbots, who were commanded to scourge him severely with rods +and thongs; and when he awoke in the morning, he declared that he still +felt the smart of the beating. On relating this dream to a certain +ecclesiastic of his court, he was advised to crave pardon of the Abbots, +whom he had before so barbarously treated; and assured, that the +Almighty had been infinitely merciful to him, in thus revealing the +mysteries of his dispensations, and affording him paternal correction. +The king, adopting this counsel, ordered the Abbots to attend him; and, +contrary to their expectations, received them with kindness:" and the +remembrance of his dream still continuing to influence his conduct, he +shortly after granted a charter for the foundation of the Abbey of +Beaulieu. It was greatly enriched by succeeding grants; and at the +Dissolution, its possessions were estimated at the annual value of L428. +6s. 8d. The manor of Beaulieu, with all its rights, privileges, and +appurtenances, (the rectory and right of patronage excepted), was +granted to Thomas Wriothesley, Esq. afterwards Earl of Southampton. The +circumference of the manor embraces an extent of 28 miles, and the clear +annual revenue amounts to between L4000 and L5000. The immediate +precincts of the Abbey were encircled by a stone wall, the remains of +which are richly mantled with ivy. An edifice, nearly square, now called +the palace, but originally built for the Abbot's lodging, was converted +into a family seat after the Dissolution. Over the entrance is a +canopied niche, in which stood the image of the Virgin Mary. The hall is +a well proportioned room, handsomely vaulted, the ribs springing from +pilasters, and spreading over the roof in beautiful ramifications. +Eastward from this edifice is a long building, supposed from the extent +and height of the apartments, to have been the dormitory; beneath it are +several good cellars. The ancient kitchen is also standing, and near it +is the refectory, a plain stone edifice, with strong buttresses: this is +now the parish church of Beaulieu; the Abbey church, which stood to the +north-east, having been entirely destroyed. On the west side is the +ancient rostrum, or pulpit, from which lectures were read when the monks +were assembled at their meals below. The site of the Abbey Church may be +traced by the unevenness of the ground; but not a vestige of the +building is remaining. Fragments of demolished tombs are occasionally +dug up here, this having been the burial-place of various illustrious +and noble personages, and among them, Queen Eleanor, mother of King +John. Some traces of the cloisters are yet distinguishable. Whilst +Beaulieu Abbey was invested with the privilege of a sanctuary, its walls +afforded a temporary protection to Margaret of Anjou, Queen of Henry +VI.; who, returning from the continent, in expectation of being +reinstated in her former dignity, was informed of the imprisonment of +her husband, the destruction of his army, and the death of the Earl of +Warwick, and the elevation to the throne of Edward IV. Another +celebrated fugitive, to whom this abbey afforded sanctuary, was Perkin +Warbeck, who, after many vicissitudes, was executed at Tyburn, in 1499. + +[Sidenote: The Abbey founded by King John.] + +[Sidenote: The king's singular dream.] + +[Sidenote: The manor extends 28 miles.] + +[Sidenote: Burial place of Queen Eleanor.] + + Map|Names of Places. |County. | Number of Miles from | + +--+------------------+----------+-----------+----------+ + 47|Beaumaris[A] m.t.|Anglesea |Bangor 7|Aber 6| + 9|Beaumont pa.|Cumberland|Carlisle 5|Gretna 7| + +--+------------------+----------+-----------+----------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places. |Number of Miles from |Lond.|Population. + +--+------------------+----------------------+-----+-----+ + 47|Beaumaris[A] m.t.|Holyhead 22| 251| 2497| + 9|Beaumont pa.|Longtown 8| 306| 276| + +--+------------------+----------------------+-----+-----+ + + +[A] BEAUMARIS, though but a small place, is the capital of the island; +it is finely situated on a low shore, called Beaumaris Bay. The present +town appears to have originated from the circumstance of a castle having +been erected here about the close of the 13th century, by Edward I. It +lies close to the town, covering a large space of ground, in a low +situation. Its erection was subsequent to its proud rivals Conway and +Caernarvon. The necessity of the present castle arose from Rhyddlan, +upon the opposite shore, being often possessed by the Welsh princes. It +appears to have been the last of the three great fortresses erected by +Edward. On the conquest of Wales in 1295, he fixed upon this spot with a +view of surrounding it with a fosse, for the double purpose of defence, +and bringing small craft to unload their cargoes under its walls, by a +canal, part of which was, till lately, remaining. From the period of its +erection to the time of Charles I., it does not appear to have been at +all conspicuous on the page of history. A communication was made between +various parts of the inner court, by means of a surrounding gallery, +about six feet wide, a considerable portion of which is yet entire. +Within recesses, in the sides of the gallery, are several square +apertures, apparently once furnished with trap doors, which opened into +rooms beneath; but their use has not been ascertained. Mr. Grose thinks +they might have been used for the purposes of imprisonment. A tennis, +fives court, and bowling-green, have been formed within the interior. +The town of Beaumaris was surrounded with walls, for its defence, and +placed under the government of a corporation, endowed with various +privileges and lands. Mr. Lloyd supposes, from local tokens being +circulated by opulent tradesmen, about the year 1650, of which he had +several in his possession, that it was a place of considerable traffic. +The present town consists of several streets, of which one terminated by +the castle is handsome, and the houses are generally well built. +Beaumaris is much frequented during the summer months, by numerous +genteel families, attracted by the pleasantness of this part of the +island, and to avail themselves of the benefit of sea-bathing. The +parochial church is a handsome structure, consisting of a chancel, nave, +and two aisles, with a large square embattled tower. In the vestry +adjoining were deposited the remains of lady Beatrice Herbert, daughter +of the celebrated mirror of chivalry, the Lord Herbert of Cherbury. Near +which lies interred the Rev. Gronwy Davies, with an inscription +concluding as follows: + + "Here lies learning, friendship, love; + And innocency of the dove. + Within this grave and in the dust + His ever courteous body must + Until the resurrection lie; + Then he shall live and death shall die." + +The free-school was erected and liberally endowed by David Hughes, Esq., +in the year 1603, who ten years afterwards founded also an excellent +alms-house for six poor persons, to whom he granted small annuities. He +was born about the middle of the 16th century, in a cottage now in +ruins. He left the island early in life, in a very humble station, but +by prudence and propriety of conduct, he made a decent fortune. + + "'T is here the active worth of Hughes appears, + A blessed asylum for the wreck of years! + If there his views the opening mind engage, + Here he supports the trembling limbs of age; + His breast embrac'd within his godlike plan, + At once the morn and evening hours of man! + And ye who here his lasting bounty share, + Whose tranquil days decline without a care! + If still, as night shall close, day greet your eyes, + No grateful aspirations reach the skies, + Indignant heaven beholds you with a frown, + Nor gives the ingrate, life's immortal crown." LLOYD. + +The old town-hall, built in 1563, has been taken down, and under the +patronage of Lord Viscount Bulkeley, another more elegant has been +erected upon its site. The town, re-incorporated in the 4th year of +Elizabeth, is governed by a mayor, recorder, two bailiffs, twenty-four +burgessess, two serjeants at mace, a town clerk, jailor, four +constables, and a water-bailiff. The county hall is a small low +building, being neither conveniently formed nor respectable in its +appearance. The custom-house stands upon the green near the edge of the +water. Beaumaris bay consists of an expansive opening in front of the +town, so sheltered by the island of Priesholme and the great Ormeshead, +as to allow vessels of considerable burden to ride in safety, during the +most stormy weather. The depth of water near the town, at ebb-tide, is +from six to seven fathoms, but the channel scarcely exceeds a quarter of +a mile in breadth. The greater part of the bay is left dry for several +miles when the tide is out, which part is called the Lavan Sands. These +once formed a habitable hundred, belonging to the territory of Arson. +They were formerly called Wylofaen, or the place of Weeping, from the +shrieks and lamentations of the inhabitants at the time when the land +was overwhelmed by the sea. Lavan is a corruption of Traeth Talaven, or +the fermented heap, allusive to the boiling up of water in the +quicksands. The ferry was granted by charter to the corporation in the +4th year of Elizabeth: it lies near the town. The place of embarking or +landing is the point anciently known under the appellation of Penrhyn +Safness, but afterwards Osmund's Air, from a malefactor, who on his way +to execution, being asked where he was going, answered, "To take the +air." The walk over the sand at low water is firm and good; they should +be passed three hours after high water, and will be safe for four hours; +or in other words, two hours before low water and two after. Precautions +are essentially necessary to be taken, for near the times of the sands +being covered by the sea they are frequently shifting, and in many +places become so watery or quick, as to have proved both dangerous and +fatal. This way is equally perilous in foggy weather, but as some +persons are necessitated to pass in every season, the large bell at Aber +is humanely rung, to direct them towards the sound. + + _Market_, Wednesday and Saturday.--_Fairs_, Feb. 13, Holy Thursday, + Sept. 19, and Dec. 19, for cattle.--_Inn_, Bull's Head. + +[Sidenote: Chief town in Anglesea.] + +[Sidenote: Much frequented in summer.] + +[Sidenote: Its government.] + +[Sidenote: Lavan sands] + +[Sidenote: Caution.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+--------------------+---------+--------------+-------------+ + 14|Beaumont pa|Essex |Manningtree 7|Colchester 16| + 13|Beaumont Hill to|Durham |Darlington 4|Sedgefield 9| + 23|BeaumontLeys ex. pl|Leicester|Leicester 2|Belgrave 1| + 38|Beauport |Sussex |Battle 3|Hastings 5| + 39|Beausall ham|Warwick |Warwick 6|Kenilworth 4| + 16|Beaworth ti|Southamp.|Alresford 5|Bis Waltham 7| + 11|Beaworthy pa|Devon |Hatherleigh 7|Holsworthy 9| + 7|Bebbington, Upper to|Chester |Great Neston 7|Liverpool 6| + +--+--------------------+---------+--------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+--------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ + 14|Beaumont pa|Harwich 9| 67| 452| + 13|Beaumont Hill to|Stockton 11| 245| | + 23|BeaumontLeys ex. pl|Grooby 4| 100| 28| + 38|Beauport |Robertsbridg 9| 59| | + 39|Beausall ham|Solihull 9| 96| | + 16|Beaworth ti|Winchester 5| 62| 156| + 11|Beaworthy pa|Oakhampton 9| 204| 339| + 7|Bebbington, Upper to|Chester 13| 201| 273| + +--+--------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ + + Map| Names of Places. | County. |Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------------+---------+--------------+-----------+ + 7|Bebbington, Low. t & p|Chester |Great Neston 5|Liverpool 7| + 29|Bebside to|Northumb |Morpeth 6|Blyth 4| + 36|Beccles[A] m.t.|Suffolk |Yarmouth 15|Norwich 18| + 22|Beconsall chap|Lancaster|Ormskirk 11|Chorley 8| + 7|Bechton to|Chester |Sandbach 2|Congleton 4| + 33|Beckbury pa|Salop |Bridgenorth 7|Shiffnal 5| + 21|Beckenham[B] pa|Kent |Croydon 5|Lewisham 4| + 24|Beckering |Lincoln |Wragby 1|Holton 1| + +--+----------------------+---------+--------------+-----------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------------+------------------------+-----+-----+ + 7|Bebbington, Low. t & p|Chester 13| 201| 440| + 29|Bebside to|Horton 1| 287| 100| + 36|Beccles[A] m.t.|Bungay 6| 112| 3862| + 22|Beconsall chap|Preston 8| 216| 476| + 7|Bechton to|Lawton 4| 160| 818| + 33|Beckbury pa|Madeley 5| 140| 307| + 21|Beckenham[B] pa|Bromley 2| 9| 1288| + 24|Beckering |Lincoln 12| 145| | + +--+----------------------+-------------------------+-----+-----+ + + +[A] BECCLES is a large and well-built town, situated on the river +Waveny, which is navigable from this place to Yarmouth, and divides in +its course the counties of Suffolk and Norfolk. It is governed by a +portreeve and thirty-six burgesses, the office of the former being held +in rotation by twelve of the latter. The church is gothic, with a +steeple, containing twelve bells, and a porch, which is considered a +fine specimen of the florid gothic. The ruins of Endgate church may be +seen out of the town, but the inhabitants of the village appear to have +been long esteemed parishioners of Beccles. Here is a theatre, a town +hall, a jail, and a free school, endowed with 100 acres of land, in the +reign of James I.; and a good grammar-school founded by Dr. Falconberge, +and endowed with an estate, then worth forty pounds per annum, although +now considerably increased in value. Near the town is a large common, on +which the inhabitants of the town have the privilege of feeding their +cattle on easy terms. In 1586 a fire consumed eighty houses in this +place, and property to the amount of L20,000. + + _Market_, Saturday.--_Fairs_, Whit Monday, June 29, and October 2, + for horses and pedlary.--_Bankers_, Gurney and Co., draw on Barclay + and Co.--_Mail_ arrives 10.15 morning; departs 3.45 + afternoon.--_Inns_, King's Head, and White Lion. + +[Sidenote: Fine gothic church.] + + +[B] BECKENHAM. The church of this village is a neat edifice, containing +many monuments of the Style, Raymond, Burrell, and other families. On a +slab in the chancel, is a remarkable brass, to the memory of dame +Margaret, wife of Sir William Dalsell, Knt., and daughter of John +Barnes. Esq., of Redhall, in Norfolk, who died 1563: she is represented +in a flowered petticoat, and close-bodied gown; the sleeves slashed at +the shoulders, and hanging down to the feet. Here is also the monument +of Mrs. Jane Clarke, wife of Dr. Clarke, physician at Epsom, with an +elegant inscription, by Gray. The parish register, under the date of +Oct. 24, 1740, also records the burial of Margaret Finch, who lived to +the age of 109 years. She was one of the people called gipsies, and had +the title of their queen. After travelling over various parts of the +kingdom, during the greater part of a century, she settled at Norwood, +whither her great age, and the fame of her fortune-telling, attracted +numerous visitors. From a habit of sitting on the ground, with her chin +resting on her knees, the sinews at length became so contracted, that +she could not rise from that posture: after her death, they were obliged +to inclose her body in a deep square box. Her funeral was attended by +two mourning coaches: a sermon was preached upon the occasion, and a +great concourse of people attended the ceremony. Her picture adorns the +sign-post of a house of public entertainment in Norwood, called the +Gipsy House. Beckenham-place, the seat of John Cator, Esq., is partly in +the parish of Bromley; but the mansion itself is in that of Beckenham. +Rear-Admiral Sir Piercy Brett, who died in 1781, (and with his lady, +lies buried in the church,) resided here. The estate, which had long +been owned by the St. Johns, was alienated to the Cators, in 1773. The +house is a handsome building, commanding a beautiful prospect. Kent +House, the ancient seat of the Lethieullers, in Beckenham parish, is now +occupied as a farm: the estate belongs to J.J. Angerstein, Esq. Clay +Hill, or the Oakery, also in this parish, was the property of the late +learned Edward King, Esq., F.R., and A.S. This gentleman, who was a +native of Norfolk, was elected president of the Society of Antiquaries +on the decease of Dr. Milles, in 1784; but, on the succeeding election +in the year following, he was obliged to relinquish the chair to the +Earl of Leicester, after an unprecedented contest. He was the author of +various works; the principal of which are, his "Observations on Ancient +Castles;" "Morsels of Criticism," tending to illustrate the Scriptures; +and the "Monumenta Antiqua." He died in 1806, at the age of 72. + +[Sidenote: Queen of the gipsies died here, at the age of 109.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------------+----------+---------------+-------------+ + 9|Beckermet, St. | | | | + | Bridgetts pa|Cumberland|Egremont 3|Ravenglass 10| + 9|Beckermet, St. Johns pa|Cumberland| 4| 9| + 4|Becket ti|Berks |Farringdon 6|Highworth 4| + 15|Beckford pa|Gloucester|Tewkesbury 5|Sedgeberrow 4| + 27|Beckham, East pa|Norfolk |Cromer 5|Holt 5| + 27|Beckham, West pa|Norfolk | ... 5| ... 5| + 41|Beckhampton[A] ti|Wilts |Marlbro' 7|Devizes 8| + 24|Beckingham pa|Lincoln |Newark 5|Leadenham 5| + 30|Beckingham pa|Nottingham|Gainsbro' 3|E. Retford 7| + 34|Beckington[B] pa|Somerset |Frome 3|Trowbridge 6| + 31|Beckley pa|Oxford |Oxford 5|Islip 3| + 38|Beckley pa|Sussex |Rye 7|Newenden 3| + 45|Beckwith Shaw |York |West End 4|Otley 7| + 44|Bedale[C] m.t. & pa|N.R. York |Northallerton 8|Leeming 3| + +--+-----------------------+----------+---------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------------+----------+---------------+-----+-------+ + 9|Beckermet, St. | | | | + | Bridgetts pa|Whitehaven 9| 291| 545| + 9|Beckermet, St. Johns pa| 10| 290| 549| + 4|Becket ti|Lambourne 10| 73| | + 15|Beckford pa|Evesham 7| 106| 433| + 27|Beckham, East pa|Aylesham 9| 124| 50| + 27|Beckham, West pa| ... 9| 124| 156| + 41|Beckhampton[A] ti|Calne 6| 81| | + 24|Beckingham pa|Sleaford 14| 126| 43| + 30|Beckingham pa|Bawtry 10| 152| 481| + 34|Beckington[B] pa|Bath 10| 105| 1340| + 31|Beckley pa|Forest-hill 3| 53| 776| + 38|Beckley pa|Lamberhurst 16| 56| 1477| + 45|Beckwith Shaw |Ripley 5| 64| | + 44|Bedale[C] m.t. & pa|Richmond 10| 223| 2707| + +--+-----------------------+--------------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BECKHAMPTON. Near this place is an enormous tumulus, perhaps the +largest in England; it is called Silbury Hill, and common belief +declares it the place of sepulchre of some British king. The two +antiquaries, Greethead and Stukeley differ, as antiquaries frequently +do, with regard to which of the British monarchs the honor of being +supposed to lie beneath this stupendous monument should belong. The +former learned writer asserting it to be that of Prydain, and the latter +calling it that of Cynneda. Scattered over the neighbouring downs are +numerous large stones called the Grey Wethers; they bear this name from +their resemblance to a flock of sheep. Beckhampton Inn, stands at the +junction of the two great Mail roads, leading from London to Bath; the +southern road passing through Devizes and Melksham; and the northern +through Calne and Chippenham. The inn is a large brick building, but has +a most desolate appearance, according well with the character of the +gloomy downs on the margin of which it stands; yet the traveller would +do well to refresh here, as there is but little accommodation for many +miles beyond. + + The Falmouth Mail which passes through Devizes, arrives 5.5 morning; + departs 9.20 night. The Bristol Mail which passes through Calne, + arrives 5.5 morning; departs 9.35 night. + +[Sidenote: Silbury Hill.] + + +[B] BECKINGTON was formerly a place of much importance in the clothing +business, but the decline of that trade in the west of England has much +reduced the town. It was the birth-place of Thomas Beckington, an +English prelate, who was one of the three appointed to draw up a code of +laws in conformity with which the Wickliffites were to be proceeded +against. His book against the salique law is still in the possession of +the Lambeth library. + + +[C] BEDALE is a tolerably well built town, situated in a rich valley, +which with the surrounding country is exceedingly fertile, and both corn +and grass yield abundant crops. The town lies to the west of the Great; +Glasgow road, about two miles from Leeming Lane. Hornby Castle, the seat +of the Duke of Leeds, deserves the admiration of the tourist. Bedale +church is a large and handsome edifice, and the tower is said to have +been constructed with so much strength, as to enable the inhabitants to +defend themselves therein, during the inroads of the Scots. + + _Market_, Tuesday.--_Fairs_, Easter Tuesday, Whit-Tuesday; June 6 and + 7; July 5 and 6, for horses, cattle, sheep, leather, &c.; Oct. 11 and + 12, horned cattle, sheep, hogs and leather; and Monday-week before + Christmas, for horned cattle and sheep. The Glasgow Mail arrives at + Leeming Lane, two miles distant 7.54 evening; departs 4.58 + morning.--_Inns_, Black Swan, and the Swan. + +[Sidenote: Seat of the Duke of Leeds.] + + Map|Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------+----------+-------------+------------+ + 13|Bedburn, North to|Durham |Bis. Auckld 6|Wolsingham 4| + 13|Bedburn, South to|Durham | ... 6| ... 4| + 50|Beddgelart[A] pa|Caernarvon|Caernarvon 12|Bettws 7| + +--+-----------------+----------+-------------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------+------------------------+-----+------+ + 13|Bedburn, North to|Durham 12| 254| 387| + 13|Bedburn, South to| ... 12| 254| 296| + 50|Beddgelart[A] pa|Tan-y-Bwlch 8| 223| 1071| + +--+-----------------+------------------------+-----+------+ + + +[A] BEDDGELART, is situated in a beautiful tract of meadows, at the +junction of three vales, near the conflux of the Glas Lyn, or Gwynant, +or Nant hwynant, and the Colwyn, which flows through Nant Colwyn, a vale +which leads to Caernarvon. Its situation was the fittest in the world, +says Mr. Pennant, to inspire religious meditation, amid lofty mountains, +woods, and murmuring streams. The church is small, yet the loftiest in +Snowdonia. The east window consists of three narrow slips. The roof is +neat, and there yet remains some very pretty fret work. A side chapel is +supported by two neat pillars and gothic arches. This church has been +conventual, belonging to a priory of Augustines, dedicated to the +Virgin. They were probably of the class called Gilbertines, consisting +of both men and women, living under the same roof, but divided by a +wall, as a piece of ground near the church is called Dol y Llein (the +meadow of the nun). No remnant of the priory however exists. The ground +on the south side of the church seems to have been the spot whereon the +buildings stood which the monks formerly inhabited. There are two or +three arched doors on that side the church, through which probably the +friars entered. The ancient mansion-house near the church might have +been the residence of the prior. In this house is shown an old pewter +mug, that will hold upwards of two quarts; and any person able to grasp +it with one hand, while full of ale, and to drink it off at one draught, +is entitled to the liquor gratis, and the tenant is to charge it to the +lord of the manor as part payment of his rent. Tradition says, that +Llewelyn the Great came to reside at Beddgelart during the hunting +season, with his wife and children; and one day, the family being +absent, a wolf had entered the house. On returning, his greyhound, +called Ciliart, met him, wagging his tail, but covered with blood. The +prince being alarmed, ran into the nursery, and found the cradle in +which the child had lain covered with blood. Imagining the greyhound had +killed the child, he immediately drew his sword and slew him, but on +turning up the cradle, he found under it the child alive, and the wolf +dead. This so affected the prince, that he erected a tomb over his +faithful dog's grave, where, afterwards, the parish church was built, +and called from this accident, Bedd-Cilihart, or the grave of Cilihart. +In the Welch annals this region is styled the forest of Snowdon. It is a +subject of great regret to most tourists, that many of the rocks which +surround Beddgelart, though once covered with oaks, are now naked. One +proprietor, however, is raising new plantations upon his estate. +Snowdonia, though once a forest, contains now scarcely a tree. Salmon is +very plentiful here, selling sometimes as low as three-farthings a +pound; the average price is about four-pence. The best land lets at 20s. +an acre; but the average of the neighbourhood is from 2s. 6d. to 5s., +with unlimited right of common upon the mountains. In this little plain +is an almost inexhaustible turbary, or right of digging turf. There is a +comfortable inn at this place, called Beddgelart Hotel. It is marked by +the emblem of the goat, with the following appropriate motto. "Patria +mea Petra." My country is a rock. The guide to the mountains is the +harper of the house; or a resident in the village. William Lloyd, the +schoolmaster of this place, was long noted as an intelligent "conductor +to Snowdon, Moel Hebog, Dinas Emrys, Llanberis pass, the lakes, +waterfalls, &c.; he was also a collector of crystals, fossils, and +natural curiosities found in these regions. Dealer in superfine woollen +hose, socks, gloves, &c.," but in the year 1804, he finally emerged from +all sublunary avocations, to the regions beyond the grave. Opposite to +the village of Beddgelart, is Moel Hebog (the hill of flight) which Lord +Lyttelton ascended. [see Festiniog.] In a bog near that mountain, was +found in 1784, a most curious brass shield, which was deposited with Mr. +Williams, of Llanidan; its diameter was two feet two inches, the weight +four pounds; in the centre was a plain umbo projecting above two inches; +the surface was marked with twenty-seven smooth concentric elevated +circles, and between each a depressed space of the same breadth with the +elevated parts, marked by a single row of smooth studs. The whole shield +was flat and very flexible. This was probably Roman, for the Welsh +despised every species of defensive armour. In ascending the summit of +Snowdon from this place, a neighbouring vale is passed, which is by far +the most beautiful of the vales among these mountains. It is about six +miles long, and affords a great variety of wood, lakes, and meadows. The +vale of Llanberis is the only one which may be said to rival it; but +their characters are so different, that they cannot with propriety be +compared. On the left, about a mile and a half up the valley, is a lofty +wood-clad rock, called the fort of Ambrosius, or Merlin Ermys, a +magician who was sent for to this place from Caermarthen, by Vortigern, +who was king of Britain from 449 to 466. Upon its summit is a level +piece of ground, and the remains of a square fort; and upon the west +side, facing Beddgelart, there are traces of a long wall. It stands +detached from other rocks, and at a distance appears in the form of a +man's hat. Adjoining is a stony tract called the cells or groves of the +magicians. In the next field, a number of large stones are called the +tombs of the magicians. It was to this place that Vortigern retired, +when he found himself despised by his subjects, and unable to contend +longer with the treacherous Saxons, whom he had introduced into his +kingdom. It is probable that this insular rock afforded him a temporary +residence till he removed to his final retreat in Nant Gwrtheyrn, or +Vortigern's Valley. Speed says, probably without truth, that Vortigern +married his own child by Rowena, daughter of Hengist, the Saxon prince, +and had by her one son. There is a tradition, that Madog, the son of +prince Owen Gwynedd, resided in this vale for some time before he left +his country for America. The entrance from Beddgelart, is but the +breadth of a narrow rugged road, close by the river's side, in which +there is nothing inviting; but passing on, the traveller advances upon +enchanted ground, where he finds extensive meadows, expanding at every +turn of rock, smooth as a bowling green; beautiful lakes and meandering +rivers, abounding in fish; mountains towering one above the other in +succession, while to the left, Snowdon overtops them all, seeming like +another Atlas, to support the firmament. Mr. Pennant, says he continued +his walk along a narrow path above the lake, as far as the extremity; +then descending, reached the opposite side, in order to encounter a +third ascent, as arduous as the preceding. This brought him into the +horrible crater immediately beneath the great precipice of Wyddfa; its +situation is dreadful, surrounded by more than three parts of a circle, +with the most horrible precipices of the highest peak of Snowdon. The +strange break, called the pass of the Arrows, was probably a station for +the hunters to watch the wandering of the deer. The margin of +Ffynmon-las here appeared to be shallow and gravelly, the waters had a +greenish cast, but what is very singular, the rocks reflected into them +seemed varied with stripes of the richest colours, like the most +beautiful lute-strings, and changed almost to infinity. Here he observed +the wheat-ear, a small and seemingly tender bird, and yet almost the +only small one, or indeed the only one, (except the rock-ouzel) that +frequents these heights; the reason is evidently the want of food. The +mountainous tract near Snowdon, scarcely yields any corn; the produce is +cattle and sheep, which during summer they keep very high in the +mountains, followed by their owners with their families, who reside +during that season in their Havod-dai, or summer dwelling, or dairy +houses, as the farmers in the Swiss Alps do in their Sennes. These +houses consist of a long low room, with a hole at one end to let out the +smoke, from the fire which is made beneath. Their furniture is very +simple, stones are the substitutes for stools, and the beds are of hay, +ranged along the sides: they manufacture their own clothes and dye them +with plants, collected from the rocks. During summer, the men pass their +time in harvest work, or tending their herds; the women in milking, or +making butter and cheese of the milk for their own consumption. The diet +of these mountaineers is very plain, consisting of butter, cheese and +oat bread; their drink is whey, not but that they have their reserve of +a few bottles of very strong beer, by way of cordial, in sickness. They +are people of good understanding, wary, and circumspect; usually tall, +thin, and of strong constitutions, from their way of living. Towards +winter, they descend to their old dwelling, where they lead, during that +season, a vacant life, in carding, spinning, knitting, &c. The height of +Snowdon is 3571 feet. + +[Sidenote: Nant Colwyn.] + +[Sidenote: Ancient pewter mug.] + +[Sidenote: Tradition of a wolf and child.] + +[Sidenote: Guide to the mountains.] + +[Sidenote: Brass shield found.] + +[Sidenote: Groves of the magicians.] + +[Sidenote: Snowdon.] + +[Sidenote: The pass of the Arrows.] + +[Sidenote: The summer habits of the mountaineers.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+--------------------+---------+-------------+-----------+ + 38|Beddingham pa|Sussex |Lewes 3|Seaford 8| + 37|Beddington pa & to|Surrey |Croydon 2|Sutton 3| + 36|Bedfield pa|Suffolk |Framlingham 5|Debenham 5| + 25|Bedfont, East pa|Middlesex|Staines 3|Hounslow 4| + 25|Bedfont, West pa|Middlesex| ... 3| ... 4| + 3|Bedfordshire[A] | | | | + +--+--------------------+---------+-------------+-----------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+--------------------+-----------------------------+-----+ + 38|Beddingham pa|Brighton 9| 53| 264| + 37|Beddington pa & to|Ewell 6| 11| 1429| + 36|Bedfield pa|Eye 9| 88| 323| + 25|Bedfont, East pa|Colnbrook 6| 13| 968| + 25|Bedfont, West pa|... 6| ... | | + 3|Bedfordshire[A] | | |95383| + +--+--------------------+-----------------------+-----+-----+ + + +[A] BEDFORDSHIRE. This county, before the Roman invasion, was part of +the district inhabited by a race of people whom the invaders denominated +Cassii. Afterwards, in A.D. 310, it was a third part of the division +named Flavia Caesariensis. After that, it was attached to the kingdom of +Mercia. In 827 it became subject to the West Saxons. It was first called +Bedfordshire in the reign of Alfred the Great, probably from Bedan +Forda: i.e. The Fortress on the Ford; there being fortifications on the +borders of the river Ouse. It is an inland county, bounded on the north +by Huntingdonshire and Northamptonshire; west by Buckinghamshire; south +by Bucks and Herts; and east by Herts and Cambridgeshire. Its form +approaches an irregular parallelogram, with many deep and almost +isolated indentations. The extent is about 36 miles in the greatest +length, and the greatest breadth about 22 miles; it contains 465 square +miles; circumference about 95 miles. It is divided into 9 hundreds, 125 +parishes, 10 market towns, 58 vicarages, 550 villages, having a total +population of 95,383 inhabitants. It belongs to the Norfolk circuit, and +is in the diocese of Lincoln; subject to an archdeaconal jurisdiction, +being divided into six deaneries. The climate is deemed mild and genial. +The prevailing winds south westerly; the north east winds being regarded +as indicating a cold summer and a severe winter. The soil is of an +exceedingly mixed and varied character; but much the greatest portion is +of a clayey nature, particularly in parts north of Bedford. The south +districts are chalky. A slip extending diagonally from Woburn to near +Biggleswade is a mixed sand; an almost equal portion from the vicinity +of Biggleswade to the neighbourhood of Bedford, partakes of a rich +gravelly soil; part of which, near the town of Biggleswade and village +of Sandy, is successfully cultivated for the production of garden +vegetables to a considerable extent. So peculiarly is that soil adapted +for such produce, that it is in some instances let for more than L14. +per acre; and generally from L4. to L9. may be considered as a fair rent +for that luxuriant soil. There can be no standard or real average as to +the value of land; as the value, like the soil itself, is exceedingly +variable. Rivers.--The Ouse and the Ivel are the chief; both of which +abound with fish of various kinds. The Ouse is remarkable for very great +and sudden inundations. The Grand Junction Canal skirts this county at +Leighton Buzzard. The natural produce consists chiefly in corn, garden +vegetables, cheese and butter. There is a little ironstone, limestone, +and a few extraneous fossils. There are several mineral springs, but +none of any celebrity. The principal landed proprietor is the Duke of +Bedford. His Grace possesses estates in about 25 parishes; under the +auspices of whom and of his illustrious brother, the county is indebted +for immense agricultural improvements. + +[Sidenote: An inland county.] + +[Sidenote: Climate mild.] + +[Sidenote: Value of the land.] + + Map|Names of Places.| County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------+----------+-------------+------------+ + 3|Bedford[A] bo|Bedford |St. Albans 30|Oxford 55| + 22|Bedford to|Lancaster |Newton 7|Leigh 2| + 16|Bedhampton pa|Hants |Havant 1|Fareham 9| + 36|Bedingfield pa|Suffolk |Eye 4|Debenham 4| + 27|Bedingham pa|Norfolk |Bungay 4|Harleston 7| + 16|Bedlam pa|Gloucester|Cheltenham 2|Gloucester 7| + +---+---------------+----------+-------------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places.| Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------+------------------------+-----+------+ + 3|Bedford[A] bo|Cambridge 30| 51| 6959| + 22|Bedford to|Bolton 7| 199| 3087| + 16|Bedhampton pa|Chichester 10| 66| 537| + 36|Bedingfield pa|Framlingham 9| 87| 332| + 27|Bedingham pa|Norwich 10| 106| 380| + 16|Bedlam pa|Tewkesbury 7| 96| | + +--+----------------+------------------------+-----+------+ + + +[A] BEDFORD. This is an ancient corporation, the earliest charter of +which is dated in 1160. It is governed by a mayor, recorder, aldermen, +two chamberlains, and thirteen common councilmen. Whoever may have been +a mayor is always afterwards reputed as an alderman. The mayor and +bailiffs are chosen annually out of the freemen. As early as the year +1295, it sent two members to parliament. The Duke of Bedford takes his +title from this town, which first gave title of duke to the victorious +prince John Plantagenet, Regent of France, during the minority of his +nephew, Henry VI. as it did in the reign of Edward IV. first to John +Nevil, Marquis of Montacute, and then to the king's third son, George +Plantagenet; but he dying an infant, the title lay vacant till Henry +VII. created his uncle, Jasper Tudor, Duke of Bedford, who also died +without issue; and thus far the title was enjoyed by the first possessor +only of each family. But King Edward VI. making John, Lord Russel, Earl +of Bedford, the dignity has ever since been in that illustrious house, +with an advancement of it to the title of Duke, by King William III. The +history of the noble family of Russell is curious and interesting. They +appear to have originated in Dorsetshire, and owe their greatness to an +accident on that coast. In the reign of Henry VII., Philip, Archduke of +Austria, being bound for Spain, the heiress of which kingdom he had +married, was obliged by a storm to put on shore at Weymouth, where he +was received by Sir Thomas Frenchard, of Wolverton, Knt., who, till he +could inform the court of the event, sent for his neighbour Mr. John +Russell, then lately returned from his travels, to entertain his +illustrious guests. The Archduke was so pleased with his conversation, +that he recommended him to the king of England, who soon advanced him to +several honourable posts, and his son Henry VIII. created him Baron +Russell of Cheneys, in the county of Bucks, which estate he afterwards +acquired by marriage. He was made by Henry VIII. lord warden of the +stannaries, and lord admiral of England and Ireland, knight of the +garter, and lord privy seal. In the reign of Edward VI. he was lord high +steward for the coronation, and had a grant of Woburn Abbey, and was in +the 3rd of Edward VI. 1549, created earl of Bedford. He had the honour +to conduct over to England, Philip of Spain, grandson to the prince who +first brought him to court and advancement. He died 1554, and was +succeeded by his son Francis, who died in 1585, and was buried at +Cheneys, as were most of his descendants. His son Francis being killed a +day or two before his father's death, by the Scotch in the marches, his +son Edward succeeded his grandfather, and died 1627; he was succeeded by +his cousin Francis, son of his uncle William, lord Russell, of +Thornhaugh, lord deputy of Ireland, in the reign of Elizabeth. This +Francis was the first projector of the draining of the great level of +the fens, called after him, Bedford Level, and dying 1641, was succeeded +by his eldest son William, who after having several times joined both +parties during the civil war, at last adhered to the royal cause, and +suffered a severe loss in the death of his only son by the very family +whom he had supported; to compensate for which he was created by King +William, Marquis of Tavistock, and Duke of Bedford, and dying in 1700, +was succeeded by his grandson Wriothesley. He, in 1711, by his son and +namesake, and he 1732, by his brother John, who, dying in 1771, was +succeeded by his grandson Francis, the late duke, who died rather +suddenly, of an illness occasioned by a rupture, on the 2nd of March, +1802, in the 37th year of his age. His brother, Lord John Russell, +succeeded him in his title and estates. This nobleman, so suddenly and +unexpectedly raised to ducal honours, was born on the sixth of July, +1766; and, on the 21st of March, 1786, before he had completed his +twentieth year, he married at Brussels, Georgiana Elizabeth, the second +daughter of Viscount Torrington. This lady died on the 11th of October, +1801; leaving issue, Francis, born May 10, 1788; George William, born +May 8, 1790; and John, born August 19, 1792. Shortly after his accession +to the title, his grace married a second time, Georgiana, the fifth +daughter of the duke of Gordon, by whom he had several children. After +the death of Mr. Pitt, when Mr. Fox and his friends succeeded to power, +his grace was appointed Lord Lieutenant of Ireland; a post which, +without distinguishing himself as a party man, he filled to the entire +and general satisfaction of the public. When Henry II. granted a charter +to the burgesses of the town of Bedford, he rendered it subject to the +payment of L40. per annum, as a fee-farm rent to the crown. Their +mercantile guild and ancient privileges were confirmed by the succeeding +monarch, who also granted new privileges and immunities similar to those +enjoyed by the burgesses of Oxford. Richard II. granted still more +extended privileges, and among others a view of Frankpledge within the +borough. In this monarch's charter the corporation are styled the mayor, +bailiffs, and burgesses. In the reign of Edward I. the liberties of the +town were seized by that monarch, the bailiffs having neglected to +discharge the fee-farm rent. In the reign of Henry VI. the town being +much decayed, many houses gone to ruin, and the trade of it brought low, +and the usual issues discontinued, the inhabitants petitioned the king +to shew them his grace: accordingly he granted that the yearly rent +should be remitted in part for a time. In the reign of Henry VII. it was +permanently reduced, through the interposition of Sir Reginald Bray, +then Prime Minister, to L20. per annum, and afterwards to L16. 5s. 8d. +which rent is now payable to their successors. The last renewal of the +charter of incorporation was in the reign of King James II. in whose +time the mayor and aldermen were removed from their respective offices, +by royal mandate, for neglecting to elect two burgesses to serve in +parliament. The members were in consequence chosen by his Majesty's +ministers. The right of election was determined in 1690, to be in the +burgesses, freemen, and inhabitant householders not receiving alms. The +number of voters is nearly 500. Bedford is a place of great antiquity, +and is supposed by some writers to have been the Lactidorum of +Antoninus; but Camden objects to this, on the ground that the town is +not situated on any Roman road, neither have any Roman coins been found +there. Its situation is upon the Ouse, by which it is divided into two +parts, in the direction of east and west. This circumstance enables it +to carry on a considerable trade with Lynn. In the Saxons' time, Bedford +was a place of considerable consequence: as appears from its having been +chosen by Offa, the powerful King of the Mercians, for his burial place. +His bones were interred in a small chapel, which being situated on the +brink of the river Ouse, was afterwards undermined and swept away by the +floods, during an inundation. Bedford, as has been already stated, was +also famous for a victory gained in the year 572, by Cuthwlf, the Saxon +king, over the Britons. The Danes once destroyed this town; but Edward +the Elder repaired it, and united the town on the south side of the +river, called Mikesgate, to Bedford, on the north side of it; since +which they have both gone by this name. After the conquest, Pain de +Beauchamp, the third Baron of Bedford, built a castle here, encompassed +with a mighty rampart of earth, and a high wall, the whole so strong +that King Stephen, who besieged and took it in his war with the Empress +Maud, was glad to grant the garrison honourable terms. In the barons' +wars it was again besieged, and for want of relief, taken by King John's +forces under Fulco de Brent, to whom the King gave it for a reward; but +for his subsequent behaviour he took it from him, and caused it to be +demolished, though it was not quite level till the reign of Henry III. +The celebrated John Bunyan, whom we shall notice hereafter, was ordained +co-pastor of the congregation of St. Peter's, in 1671, and continued in +that situation until he died in 1688. The chair in which he used to sit +is still preserved as a relic in the vestry of the chapel. As early as +the year 1745, the Moravians, or society of Unitas Fratrum, had an +establishment at Bedford, where they built a neat chapel in 1750. Of +late years, however, the number of these recluse and inoffensive +sectaries has considerably declined; and the house adjoining to the +chapel, which was formerly appropriated to the brethren and the sisters +of the society, has been converted into a school. In the year 1556, Sir +William Harper founded a free school in Bedford, for the instruction of +children of the town in grammar and good manners. The school-house was +rebuilt in 1767, when a statue of the founder was placed in the front, +with a latin inscription beneath, to the following effect:-- + + "Behold, Traveller, the Bodily Resemblance + Of Sir William Harper, Knight; + Of this School, + Thus spacious and Adorned, + The Munificent Founder, + The Picture of His Mind, + Is Dedicated in the Table of Benefactions." + +The warden and fellows of New College, Oxford, are visitors of this +school, and have the appointment of the masters and ushers. The master's +salary is L260. with coals and candles; that of the second master is +L160., with the same allowance of fire and candle. The writing-master +has a salary of L80. per annum. Sir William Harper, for the support of +this excellent institution, conveyed to the corporation thirteen acres +and one rood of land, lying in the parish of St. Andrew, Holborn, which +he had purchased for the sum of L180.; he also conveyed his late +dwelling-house, &c., at Bedford. The revenues of these estates were also +to be applied towards apportioning maidens of the town on their entrance +into the marriage estate. In the year 1660, the corporation leased the +whole of the lands in the parish of St. Andrew, Holborn, for the term of +41 years, at the yearly rent of L99. In the year 1684, a reversionary +lease was granted for the further term of 51 years, at the improved rent +of L150. In consequence of granting these leases, a great number of +houses were built, and the following streets covered the above-mentioned +thirteen acres of meadow land:--Bedford-street, Bedford-row, +Bedford-court, Princes-street, Theobald's-road, North-street, +East-street, Lamb's Conduit-street, Queen-street, Eagle-street, +Boswell-court, Queen-street, Harper-street, Richbell-court, Hand-court, +Gray's Inn-passage, Three Cup-yard, &c. The annual rent of these +buildings is now considerably increased, and it is expected that in a +few years it will amount to upwards of L30,000. This extraordinary +increase of revenue occasioned the trustees to apply to parliament for +two several acts to regulate its disposal, and to extend the objects of +the charity. By the priorism contained in these acts of parliament, the +maintenance of the master and usher of the grammar-school, and the +maintenance of a master, and two ushers to the English school, is +provided. Three exhibitions of L40. per annum, are given to scholars +from the free school, either at Oxford or Cambridge, during the space of +six years. The sum of L800. per annum is appropriated for marriage +portions, to be given by lot in sums of L20. each, to forty poor maidens +of Bedford, of good fame and reputation, not under sixteen years of age, +and not exceeding fifty. They are not to marry within two months after +receiving the marriage portion, otherwise to forfeit it. The men to whom +they are to be married must not be vagrants or persons of bad fame or +reputation. A yearly sum of L3,000. per annum is also appropriated by +the last act, for the maintenance of twenty-six boys in an hospital or +school of industry, and L700. to be laid out in apprentice fees for +fifteen poor boys and five girls, to be chosen by lot. The trustees have +likewise been enabled to build alms-houses for a number of poor men and +women. The weekly allowance to each is 3s., and 40s. annually for +clothing. If a poor man and his wife live together, they are allowed to +the amount of 5s. per week. One hundred pounds per annum is appropriated +to be given in sums of L5. each, to twenty poor girls upon their going +out to service. The residue of the income is to be laid out in +buildings, and in endowing more alms-houses, or building cottages to be +let at a low rent to the poor. Here are also a house of industry, and an +infirmary, which are well supported. Lace-making employs a great number +of the lower classes, both in the town and county of Bedford. The lace +is chiefly made by women; and children at the early age of four years +are set down to it. On certain days, the persons appointed by the +dealers collect the lace of the different villages, and convey it to the +London market. A strong stone bridge connects the northern and southern +parts of the town. "This bridge," says Grose, "is one hundred and +sixteen yards in length, four and a half broad, and has a parapet three +feet and a half high; this, it is said, was erected in the reign of +Queen Mary, out of the ruins of St. Dunstan's church, which stood on the +south side of the bridge. It has seven arches, and near the centre were +two gate-houses; that on the north, being used for a prison, and that on +the south served as a store-house for the arms and ammunition of the +troops quartered here. These gate-houses were taken down in the year +1765, and six lamps set up on posts at proper distances." The town-hall, +or sessions-house, in which the assizes for the county are holden, is +situated in an area before St. Paul's church. It was erected in the year +1753, and is a capacious and handsome structure. + + _Markets_, Tuesday and Saturday.--_Fairs_, First Tuesday in Lent, + April 21, July 5, Aug. 21, Oct. 11, and Dec. 19, for all kinds of + cattle.--_Mail_ arrives 1.14 morning; departs 2.54 + afternoon.--_Banker_, Thomas Barnard, draws on Kay and Co.--_Inns_, + George, and Swan. + +[Sidenote: Very ancient corporation.] + +[Sidenote: Origin of the Bedford family.] + +[Sidenote: Bedford Level.] + +[Sidenote: First charter granted by Henry II.] + +[Sidenote: King Offa buried here.] + +[Sidenote: John Bunyan.] + +[Sidenote: Noble charity, founded by Sir William Harper.] + +[Sidenote: Its revenues.] + +[Sidenote: Alms-houses.] + +[Sidenote: Lace-making, the chief trade.] + + Map|Names of Places. | County.| Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------+--------+---------------+------------+ + 29|Bedlington[A] pa|Durham |Morpeth 4|Blyth 14| + 21|Bedmanton ham|Kent |Sittingbourne 5|Lenham 3| + 34|Bedminster pa|Somerset|Bristol 1|Dundry 3| + 35|Bednall to|Stafford|Penkridge 3|Rugeley 7| + 33|Bedston pa|Salop |Knighton 4|Ludlow 11| + 26|Bedwas pa|Monmouth|Newport 10|Cardiff 9| + 3|Bedwall Green ham|Bedford |Dunstable 2|Toddington 3| + 26|Bedwelty pa|Monmouth|Newport 16|Pontypool 10| + +--+-----------------+--------+---------------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------+------------------------+------------+ + 29|Bedlington[A] pa|Newcastle 12| 286| 2120| + 21|Bedmanton ham|Maidstone 8| 42| | + 34|Bedminster pa|Weston 19| 119| 13130| + 35|Bednall to|Stafford 4| 134| | + 33|Bedston pa|Bishops' Cas. 10| 153| 159| + 26|Bedwas pa|Pontypool 10| 158| 756| + 3|Bedwall Green ham|Hockliffe 5| 36| | + 26|Bedwelty pa|Abergavenn. 14| 159| 10637| + +--+-----------------+------------------------+-----+------+ + + +[A] BEDLINGTON, though within the county of Northumberland, belongs to +Chester ward, in the county of Durham. It lies between the rivers +Wansbeck and Blythe. The monks of Durham, in their flight to +Lindisfarne, before the arms of the Conqueror, with the incorruptible +body of St. Cuthbert, rested all night here. The Rev. Francis Woodmas, +the expositor of St. Chrysostom, was vicar here from 1696 to 1710. The +Bedlington blast furnace, for smelting iron, was some years since taken +down. At the Bebside and Bedlington Mills, about fifty men are employed. +An unsuccessful attempt was a few years ago made to establish a +manufactory of printed cottons at Stannington bridge, in this +neighbourhood. + +[Sidenote: Blast furnaces.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-------------------+---------+-------------+---------------+ + 41|Bedwin, Great[A] pa|Wilts |Marlborough 7|Ramsbary 5| + 41|Bedwin, Little pa|Wilts | ... 8| ... 4| + 39|Bedworth pa|Warwick |Nuneaton 4|Longford 2| + 23|Beeby pa|Leicester|Leicester 6|Houghton 3| + 35|Beech to|Warwick |Stafford 7|Eccleshall 6| + 4|Beech Hill ti|Berks |Reading 7|Aldermaston 5| + 41|Beechingstoke pa|Wilts |Devizes 5|Pewsey 5| + 38|Beeding, Upper pa|Sussex |Steyning 1|Shoreham 5| + 38|Beeding, Lower ti|Sussex | ... 2| ... 5| + 4|Beedon pa|Berks |E. Ilsley 3|Newbury 7| + 43|Beeford pa & to|E.R. York|Driffield 7|Bridlington 10| + 10|Beeley chap|Derby |Bakewell 3|Chesterfield 10| + 21|Beelsby pa|Lincoln |Caistor 5|Grimsby 7| + 4|Beenham pa|Berks |Reading 8|Newbury 9| + 11|Beer chap|Devon |Colyton 3|Honiton 10| + 34|Beer |Somerset |Bridgewater 4|Stowey 5| + 11|Beerhall |Devon |Bridport 8|Honiton 10| + 11|Beeralston[B] to|Devon |Tavistock 6|Plymouth 7| + +--+-------------------+---------+-------------+---------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-------------------+-----------------------+-----+---------+ + 41|Bedwin, Great[A] pa|Hungerford 6| 71| 2191| + 41|Bedwin, Little pa| ... 5| 70| 587| + 39|Bedworth pa|Coventry 5| 96| 3980| + 23|Beeby pa|Melton 9| 104| 120| + 35|Beech to|Newcastle 8| 141| | + 4|Beech Hill ti|Kingsclere 7| 46| 249| + 41|Beechingstoke pa|Lavington 6| 86| 187| + 38|Beeding, Upper pa|Brighton 10| 51| 589| + 38|Beeding, Lower ti| ... 10| 51| 533| + 4|Beedon pa|Hungerford 12| 57| 306| + 43|Beeford pa & to|Beverley 13| 196| 894| + 10|Beeley chap|Matlock 6| 150| 441| + 21|Beelsby pa|Louth 18| 164| 158| + 4|Beenham pa|Pangbourn 6| 47| 360| + 11|Beer chap|Sidmouth 7| 153| | + 34|Beer |Watchet 14| 143| | + 11|Beerhall |Crewkerne 14| 147| | + 11|Beeralston[B] to|Saltash 4| 213| | + +--+-------------------+-----------------------+-----+---------+ + + +[A] BEDWIN was a market-town, and supposed by Stukeley to have been the +Leucomagus of the Romans; it certainly was a chief city of the Saxons, +who built a castle there. It was a borough by prescription, sending two +members to parliament, and is governed by a portreeve, and exercises +many of its original rights, although considerably reduced in +population. The church, a cruciform building of flints, with a central +tower, is ancient and curious in itself, and for the monuments which it +contains. The obtusely pointed arches of the nave, ornamented with +zig-zag and billetted mouldings, rest on capitals, richly adorned with +flowers, grotesque heads, and other figures. In the south transept are +two tombs, which commemorate Adam and Roger de Stocre, Lords, according +to Leland, of "Stoke Haulle thereby." The chancel contains the noble +altar monument of Sir John Seymour, of Wolphall, father of the +Protector, Somerset, and other distinguished persons. Near this tomb are +two brass plates, on one of which is the figure of a lady, with her +hands folded, and the inscription--"Julia Seymour;" the other +commemorates a son of Sir John Seymour. The manor of Bedwin, which once +belonged to Gilbert, Earl of Clare, husband of Anna d'Acres, was +purchased by the late Earl of Aylesbury. This place gave birth, in 1621, +to Dr. Thomas Willis, a learned physician, who wrote several works on +his art, was appointed physician in ordinary to Charles II., and died of +pleurisy in 1675. On Castle-hill is an entrenchment, in area two acres, +with some foundations, supposed to be those of a castle, founded by the +Saxons. Chisbury Castle is an entrenchment more than fifteen acres in +extent, supposed to have been begun by the Britons, and sometime +occupied by the Romans. The neighbouring village of Little Bedwin has a +church built of flints, in the Anglo-Norman style of architecture, with +a nave, aisles, chancel, and tower. + + _Market_, formerly Tuesday (disused).--_Fairs_, April 23, and July + 26, for horses, cows, and sheep. + +[Sidenote: Monument of Julia Seymour, sister to Lady Jane Grey.] + + +[B] BEERALSTON. This place once had the privilege of sending two members +to parliament. It is chiefly inhabited by labourers employed in +agriculture and mining. The borough was under the influence of the Earl +of Beverley. The right of election was vested in those who had land in +the borough, and paid three-pence acknowledgment to the Lord of the +Manor, who varied the number of electors at his pleasure, by granting +burgage-tenures, which were generally resigned when the election was +concluded, to as many of his partisans as were requisite. The portreeve, +chosen annually in the Lord's court, was the returning-officer. The +first members were returned in the twenty-seventh of Elizabeth. Risdon +mentions that Beare was bestowed by William the Conqueror on a family +descended from the house of Alencon in France, and that it still +continues its name under the corruption of Bere-Alson. In the reign of +Henry II., Henry Ferrers had a castle here, which came to the possession +of his descendant Martin Ferrers, the last of the house, in the time of +Edward III. The manor then came to the Champernounes, and passed +respectively through the families of Willoughby, Mountjoy, Maynard, and +Stamford, to the present possessor, the Duke of Northumberland. In this +place are several lead-mines, now of inconsiderable value, though +sometimes impregnated with silver; but in the reign of Edward I., it is +said, that in the space of three years 1,600 pounds weight of silver was +obtained. Since that time no considerable quantity has ever been +procured. + +[Sidenote: Electioneering abuses.] + + Map| Names of Places. |County. | Number of Miles from | + +--+-----------------------+----------+-----------+-----------+ + 34|Berecrocombe pa|Somerset |Ilminster 5|Taunton 7| + 11|Bere Ferris[A] pa|Devon |Saltash 3|Plymouth 6| + 12|Bere Hacket pa|Devon |Sherborne 4|Yeovil 4| + 12|Bere Regis[B] m.t. & pa|Dorset |Wareham 7|Blandford 9| + +--+-----------------------+----------+-----------+-----------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places. |Number of Miles from |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------------+----------------------+-----+------+ + 34|Berecrocombe pa|Somerton 12| 135| 182| + 11|Bere Ferris[A] pa|Tavistock 8| 215| 1876| + 12|Bere Hacket pa|Beaminster 12| 121| 110| + 12|Bere Regis[B] m.t. & pa|Dorchester 12| 113| 1170| + +--+-----------------------+----------------------+-----+------+ + + +[A] BERE FERRIS. This parish is situated south by west from Tavistock. +Here, observes Risdon, "lieth Ley, the ancient possession of a family so +called, whence the name tooke that honor; for from hence Sir James Ley, +Knt., Lord Chief Justice of England, and High Treasurer, created +afterwards Earle of Marlborough, descended; a lawgiver in the chief +place of justice, and a preserver of venerable antiquity, whose noble +thoughts were so fixed on virtue, and his discourses embellished with +wisdome, and his heart with integrity, that his words did never bite, +nor his actions wrong any man, to give him just cause of complaynt." +Amongst several ancient monuments in Bere-Ferris Church, is one under an +arched recess, of a cross-legged knight half inclined on his right side, +with his right hand on his sword; and another of a knight and his lady, +under a richly ornamented arch in the chancel. Among the figures painted +on the east window is that of William Ferrers, who was probably the +builder of this fabric, as he is represented kneeling, and holding the +model of a church in his hand. + +[Sidenote: A honest lawyer.] + + +[B] BERE REGIS is situated in the Blandford division of the county. Drs. +Stukeley and Coker conjecture that this place was the site of a Roman +station; an opinion which is confirmed by a large entrenchment upon +Woodbury Hill, about half a mile north-east of the parish. The area of +this place, which contains about ten acres, is surrounded by triple +ramparts, that in some places are high and deep. On the summit, which +commands a very extensive prospect, a fair is annually holden. This fair +begins on the Nativity of the Virgin, and continues through the five +following days: though of late years it has much decreased; it was once +the most considerable in the west of England. Queen Elfrida, to whom the +manor belonged, is said to have retired to her seat in this place, after +the murder of her son-in-law, Edward the Martyr. King John also appears +to have made it his residence. In the reign of Henry III. the manor was +bestowed on Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester; but, as a consequence +attending his rebellion, it was taken from him, and granted to the +King's brother, Edmund. Edmund gave a moiety of it to the Abbess of +Tarent, who, in the reign of Edward I. claimed for her manor of Bere a +fair, a market, a free-warren, and the whole forest of Bere. Her moiety +of these was granted her. At the dissolution, Henry VIII., for the sum +of L680. 16s. 8d. granted the manor to Robert Turberville, to whose +ancestors the other moiety had belonged for ages. The mansion of the +Turbervilles still remains: it is an ancient irregular structure, built +with stone, and its windows contain various quarterings of the +Turberville family and its alliances. Bere Regis, though it does not +appear ever to have been represented in parliament, was incorporated in +the time of Edward I. Its market is ancient, as appears from King John's +having confirmed it to the inhabitants. The church is a large and +handsome structure, and contains numerous monuments of the Turberville +and other families. The town of Bere Regis has suffered twice by fire: +once in 1634, and again in 1788. After the latter fire the inhabitants +found shelter in the booths erected for the fair. The most distinguished +natives of the place have been James Turberville, Bishop of Exeter, and +John Morton, Archbishop of Canterbury. + + _Market_, Wednesday.--_Fair_, September 18. + +[Sidenote: The residence of Queen Elfrida.] + + Map|Names of Places. |County. |Number of Miles from | + +--+-----------------------+----------+-------------+------------- + 9|Bees, St.[A] to & pa|Cumberland|Egremont 3|Whitehaven 4| + 24|Beesby pa|Lincoln |Louth 9|Grimsby 9| + 24|Beesby in the Marsh, pa|Lincoln |Alford 3|Saltfleet 10| + 3|Beeston to|Bedford |Biggleswade 3|Tempsford 3| + +--+-----------------------+----------+-------------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places. |Number of Miles from |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------------+------------------------+-----+-----+ + 9|Bees, St.[A] to & pa|Buttermere 13| 296| 517| + 24|Beesby pa|M. Raisin 12| 158| 99| + 24|Beesby in the Marsh, pa|Louth 9| 144| 132| + 3|Beeston to|Bedford 8| 48| 258| + +--+-----------------------+------------------------+-----+-----+ + + +[A] BEES, (ST.) This ancient village is situated in the Ward of +Allerdale, west by north from Egremont. It is understood to have derived +its name and origin from a religious house, which was founded here about +the year 650, by St. Bega, an Irish nun of great sanctity. On the death +of Bega, a church was erected in honour of her virtues; but both these +establishments having been destroyed by the Danes, William, son of +Ranulph de Meschines, replaced them by a new foundation of Benedictine +monks, and made it a cell to the Abbey of St. Mary at York: in the time +of Henry I. The manor was granted after the dissolution to Sir Thomas +Chaloner, by Edward VI. in the last year of his reign. It next became +the property of a family named Wyberg, from whom, under a fore-closed +mortgage, it passed to an ancestor of the Earl of Lonsdale, about the +year 1663. St. Bees church, which was erected about the time of Henry +I., had the form of a cross, and great part of it is yet standing. The +east-end is unroofed, and in ruins: the nave, however, is fitted up as +the parish church, and the cross aisle is used as a place of sepulchre. +The ancient chancel has narrow lancet windows, ornamented with double +mouldings, and pilasters, with rich capitals. At the east end are +niches, of a singular form, with pointed arches, supported on well +proportioned pillars, having capitals adorned with rich engravings. The +whole edifice is of red free-stone. A free grammar school was founded in +the village of St. Bees by Archbishop Girandal, under a charter from +Queen Elizabeth, towards the close of the sixteenth century. This +prelate was born in the neighbouring village of Helsingham, in the year +1519. He was educated at Cambridge, where he obtained a fellowship at +Pembroke Hall. Being attached to the principles of the Reformation, +Bishop Ridley made him his chaplain, and precentor of St. Pauls. He was +also appointed chaplain to the King, and prebendary of Westminster; but +on the accession of Mary he retired to Germany, and settled at +Strasburgh. When Elizabeth ascended the throne he returned home, and was +employed in revising the Litany. In 1559 he was chosen master of +Pembroke Hall, and the same year preferred to the see of London, from +whence, in 1570 he was translated to York, and in 1575 to Canterbury. +Two years afterwards he was suspended from his archiepiscopal functions, +for refusing to obey the Queen's order to suppress prophecyings, or the +associations of the clergy to expound the Scriptures. His sequestration +was taken off, though he never completely recovered the royal favour. He +died at Croydon, 1583. He contributed to Fox's acts and monuments. James +I. afterwards increased the endowments, which have been since augmented +by divers benefactors. Several scholars of great eminence have received +the rudiments of education in this seminary. It is remarkable, however, +that, till a few years ago, the school had not undergone any material +change since its foundation. Occasional repairs were indeed found +absolutely necessary for the support of the buildings, but no +improvement seems ever to have been attempted. Through the munificence +of the Earl of Lonsdale this long respected seminary has been put into +complete order, and made more suitable to the purpose intended by the +pious founder than it had been at any time since its erection. Exclusive +of what has been done at the spacious school-room, the library is +rendered more commodious. The master's house, which adjoins the school, +has been enlarged, some parts of it rebuilt, a good garden well walled +round, and the whole made a very comfortable and eligible residence. + +[Sidenote: Early history.] + +[Sidenote: Archbishop Girandal.] + + Map|Names of Places. |County. |Number of Miles from + +--+----------------------+----------+-------------+------------- + 7|Beeston[A] to|Chester |Nantwich 7|Tarporley 2| + 27|Beeston pa|Norfolk |Swaffham 7|E. Dereham 6| + 30|Beeston pa|Nottingham|Nottingham 4|Chilwell 1| + 45|Beeston chap|W.R. York |Leeds 2|Birstall 5| + 27|Beeston, St. Andrew p|Norfolk |Norwich 4|Worstead 9| + 27|Beeston, St. Lawren. p|Norfolk |Coltishall 4| ... 3| + 27|Beeston Regis pa|Norfolk |Cromer 4|Holt 7| + 40|Beethom[B] pa & to|Westmorlnd|Burton 4|Millthorpe 1| + 27|Beetley pa|Norfolk |E. Dereham 4|Foulsham 6| + 31|Begbrook pa|Oxford |Woodstock 3|Oxford 6| + 34|Beggerielge ham|Somerset |Bath 4|Frome 9| + +--+----------------------+----------+-------------+------------+ + | |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places. |Number of Miles from |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ + 7|Beeston[A] to|Whitchurch 14| 171| 434| + 27|Beeston pa|Castle Acre 5| 100| 702| + 30|Beeston pa|Ashby 16| 124| 2530| + 45|Beeston chap|Huddersfield 9| 190| 2128| + 27|Beeston, St. Andrew p|Acle 9| 113| 49| + 27|Beeston, St. Lawren. p|Norwich 11| 120| 52| + 27|Beeston Regis pa|Cley 8| 126| 246| + 40|Beethom[B] pa & to|Kendal 10| 252| 1639| + 27|Beetley pa|Fakenham 9| 104| 381| + 31|Begbrook pa|Islip 5| 60| 102| + 34|Beggerielge ham|Beckington 6| 110| ...| + +--+---------------------+-------------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BEESTON. Near this village are the remains of a castle, once deemed +impregnable; it is situated on a sandstone rock, 366 feet in +perpendicular height. So strong was this fortress considered, that it +became a proverb in the neighbourhood to say, "It is as strong as +Beeston Castle." The area contains five acres, and was rendered +unapproachable by means of a very wide ditch. In the reign of Charles I. +it underwent a lengthened siege, or rather blockade, for all +communications were cut off with the neighbourhood for a long term; at +last it was compelled to surrender, and the parliament ordered it to be +dismantled. During the period of the threatened invasion of the French, +in 1803, this castle was fixed upon by the lieutenancy of the county, as +the site for a signal station and beacon. The ancient and craggy walls +are beautifully mantled over with a luxuriant covering of ivy, and the +base of the hill abounds with several varieties of rare plants. The well +of the castle is nearly 300 feet deep, and the peasantry firmly believe +that it contains a vast store of riches, which have been thrown into it +during the civil wars. A mineral spring was discovered here a few years +ago. The inhabitants of Chester consider it a favourite holiday +indulgence to visit this castle in a pleasure excursion; and by +application to an old woman in the village, who may be considered the +female warden of the place, travellers can be conducted to the summit of +the building. The views from the ramparts are beautiful, extending over +the whole Vale Royal of Cheshire, to the estuaries of the rivers Mersey +and Dee: that side of the hill which forms a precipice rises +perpendicularly 160 feet from the base of the elevation, and upon +looking down from the high pinnacle of the castle wall, it is sufficient +to call to remembrance the sublime poetic effusion of our immortal +bard:-- + + "How fearful + And dizzy 'tis, to cast ones eyes so low, + The crows and choughs, that wing the mid-way air, + Shew scarce as gross as beetles. + + I'll look no more, + Lest my brain turn, and the deficient sight, + Topple down headlong." + +[Sidenote: Castle on a rock.] + +[Sidenote: A favourite place of resort.] + + +[B] BEETHOM. This mountainous and highly interesting parish is situated +in the Kendal Ward, at the south-western extremity of the county of +Westmoreland, on both sides of estuaries of the river Kent, which is +navigable for small craft as far as the hamlet of Storch, and comprises +the chapelries of Witherslack, and the townships of Beetham, Farleton, +Haverbrack, and Methop, with Ulpha. The parish church is dedicated to +St. Michael, the patron saint of mountainous and hilly parishes: it is a +neat building, situated in a fine vale, or holm ground, commanding the +richest variety of wood, water, and rocky scenery. Here are two fine old +monuments to the memory of Thomas de Beetham and his lady, who lived in +the reign of Richard III. Here was anciently a chapel, dedicated to St. +John, and near it, in a garden, a considerable number of human bones +were dug up; it was situated about forty yards from the present +school-house. Some few years since a mole cast up an amber bead, and +with it an oval piece of silver, about the size of a shilling; it was +perforated through the middle, and on one side was an impression of the +crucifixion, with the letters J.N.R.J.; on the right of which was a +crescent, and on the left a rising sun; at the bottom, the Virgin Mary, +in a weeping attitude: on the reverse, a lamb, with a standard, and St. +Andrews' cross. The parsonage, or rectory-house, which stood on the +north-east corner of the churchyard, was formerly called the college of +St. Mary's. The Hilton family had also a handsome house near this spot, +which was enlarged and improved by George Hilton, an eccentric squire, +and well known character in this neighbourhood about the commencement of +the last century. This George Hilton was a Roman Catholic, and joined +the Scotch rebels in 1715, upon whose defeat he made his escape, but was +pardoned by the act of grace the year following, and afterwards retired +to a house which he built at the south end of Beethom Park. Mr. Hutton, +the historian of this place, says, "that he discovered a diary, in an +old chest, which was kept by this gentleman, taken by himself every +night, but which was afterwards lost. 'On Sunday, (says he in one +place,) I vowed to abstain from three things during the ensuing week +(Lent), viz. women, eating of flesh, and drinking of wine; but, alas! +the frailty of good resolutions. I broke them all! Conversed with a +woman--was tempted to eat the wing of a fowl--and got drunk at +Milnthorp.'" Of this parish the Rev. William Hutton was vicar, who wrote +a folio book of collections for its history, which he deposited in the +vestry for the information of posterity, with blank pages to be filled +up as materials should occur. He was an amiable man, and an +indefatigable antiquarian. The old manor house, called the Hall of +Beethom, was a fine old castellated mansion, but now unfortunately in +ruins. One large apartment in this castle is still called the hall, and +according to the laudable practice of ancient hospitality, was devoted +to the purpose of entertaining the friends and dependants of the family: +and hence came the proverb-- + + "'Tis merry in the hall When beards wag all." + +The remains of a room, formerly used as a chapel, still exist; and the +ruins of this fine mansion are of considerable extent. The ruins of +another hall in this parish are also to be seen in Cappleside Demesne, +consisting of a front and two wings, comprising an extent of 117 feet of +frontage. Also an ancient tower, now in ruins, called Helslack Tower: +and another tower, called Arnside Tower; equally neglected. These towers +seem to have been intended to guard the Bay of Morecambe, as similar +buildings are erected on the opposite side of the river. A grammar +school was founded here in 1663, and rebuilt in 1827. It has an +endowment of about L40. a year, arising out of lands bequeathed for the +instruction of fifty poor boys. + +[Sidenote: George Hilton, an eccentric character.] + +[Sidenote: The Hall.] + + Map|Names of Places.| County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------+----------+---------------+-------------+ + 57|Begelley pa|Pembroke |Narbeth 4|Tenby 4| + 58|Beggars' Bush |Radnor |Knighton 8|Presteign 2| + 31|Beggars' Bush |Oxford |Nettlebed 4|Benson 2| + 58|Beguildy pa|Radnor |Knighton 6|New Radnor 12| + 21|Beigham |Kent p |Lamberhurst 3|Tunb. Wells 3| + 10|Beighton pa|Derby |Chesterfield 10|Sheffield 7| + 27|Beighton pa|Norfolk |Acle 2|Loddon 6| + 36|Beighton pa|Suffolk |Bury 6|Woolpit 2| + 46|Beilby to & chap|E.R. York |Pocklington 4|M. Weighton 6| + 27|Belaugh pa|Norfolk |Norwich 8|Worstead 5| + 9|Belbank to|Cumberland|Brampton 10|Carlisle 15| + +--+----------------+----------+---------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places.| Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------+--------------------------+-----+-------+ + 57|Begelley pa|Pembroke 14| 257| 996| + 58|Beggars' Bush |New Radnor 6| 153| | + 31|Beggars' Bush |Wallingford 3| 44| | + 58|Beguildy pa|Bettws 4| 171| 1043| + 21|Beigham |Brenchley 5| 38| | + 10|Beighton pa|Eckington 2| 155| 980| + 27|Beighton pa|Norwich 9| 118| 262| + 36|Beighton pa|Stow Market 8| 71| 238| + 46|Beilby to & chap|York 13| 192| 239| + 27|Belaugh pa|Coltishall 2| 116| 151| + 9|Belbank to|Longtown 13| 321| 485| + +--+----------------+--------------------------+-----+-------+ + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------------+----------+------------+-------------+ + 9|Belbank to|Cumberland|Brampton 7|Carlisle 12| + 42|Belbroughton pa|Worcester |Bromsgrove 5|Stourbridge 5| + 46|Belby to|E.R. York |Howden 1|South Cave 11| + 12|Belchalwell pa|Dorset |Blandford 7|Sturminster 3| + 14|Belchamp Oten pa|Essex |Headingham 5|Sudbury 5| + 14|Belchamp, St. Pauls p|Essex |... 6|... 6| + 14|Belchamp Wallers[A] pa|Essex |... 6|... 3| + 24|Belchford pa|Lincoln |Horncastle 5|Louth 8| + 29|Belford[B] m.t. & pa|Northumb. |Newcastle 49|Alnwick 5| + 30|Belgh ham|Nottingham|Worksop 5|Ollerton 6| + 23|Belgrave pa|Leicester |Leicester 2|Loughboro' 9| + 29|Bellasis to|Northumb. |Morpeth 5|Newcastle 10| + 46|Bellasize to|E.R. York |Howden 5|South Cave 7| + 18|Bell Bar |Herts |Barnet 6|Hatfield 3| + 24|Belleau[C] pa|Lincoln |Alford 3|Louth 8| + +--+----------------------+----------+------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------------+----------+------------+-----+-------+ + 9|Belbank to|Longtown 9| 318| 127| + 42|Belbroughton pa|Kidderminst 7| 121| 1489| + 46|Belby to|Hull 23| 181| 44| + 12|Belchalwell pa|Shaftesbury 10| 110| 205| + 14|Belchamp Oten pa|Clare 4| 53| 397| + 14|Belchamp, St. Pauls p| ... 3| 54| 808| + 14|Belchamp Wallers[A] pa| ... 5| 53| 670| + 24|Belchford pa|Spilsby 10| 141| 490| + 29|Belford[B] m.t. & pa|Berwich 15| 322| 2030| + 30|Belgh ham|Mansfield 7| 143| | + 23|Belgrave pa|Derby 26| 100| 2329| + 29|Bellasis to|Blyth 8| 284| | + 46|Bellasize to|Blacktoft 3| 185| 189| + 18|Bell Bar |Hertford 8| 17| | + 24|Belleau[C] pa|Saltfleet 12| 144| 107| + +--+----------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BELCHAMP, or Belchamp Wallers, in the hundred of Hinckford, lies +north-east by north from Castle Headingham. The church, dedicated to the +Virgin Mary, is lofty and neat, and contains an orchestra, with a fine +toned organ. Here is a capacious vault which belongs to the Raymond +family; and an elegant marble monument dedicated to them in the chancel. +Mrs. Raymond has established in this village a Sunday school for fifty +children belonging to the poor. Belchamp Hall, in this parish, is the +residence of the Raymond's, one of whose ancestors came into England +with the Conqueror, and whose family have resided in this neighbourhood +upwards of two centuries. The house is a substantial and commodious +building, whose principal or south-eastern front is for the most part +composed of foreign bricks. It is situated on a pleasant lawn, sloping +gradually to a small river, within 200 yards of the front. A spacious +and extensive terrace, skirted with lofty trees, at the end of which is +an ancient building, ornamented with painted glass, lies to the south. +At the other end is a lofty mount, with another ornamental building on +its summit. This mansion contains an interesting collection of pictures +by some of the most esteemed masters; among them are the following:--The +Wise Men's Offering, an altar-piece; Albert Durer. This picture, with a +large gun, some pistols, and powder flasks, inlaid with gold and ivory, +were presented to the Raymonds, by Sir William Harris, a sea-officer, +who took them, with other property, on the defeat of the Spanish Armada, +in 1588. A three-quarter portrait of Sir Hugh Middleton, Bart., in whose +public spirit the New river originated, and another of his wife, are +both by Cornelius Jansen. Goldingham Hall, in the parish of Bulmer, +adjoining Belchamp, was the residence of Sir Hugh. + +[Sidenote: Belchamp Hall.] + + +[B] BELFORD is a little market town pleasantly situated on the side of a +hill about two miles from the river Lear, and being a post-town, and on +the great north road, has several good inns. The buildings in general +are neat, and the church is a handsome structure, erected in 1700. Near +this place on a rising ground, are the ruins of an ancient chapel, +surrounded by several tall oaks; and at a little distance, are the +remains of a Danish camp, apparently of great strength, surrounded by a +deep ditch. The annual races formerly run at Beadnall, now take place at +this town. + + _Market_, Tuesday--_Fairs_, Tuesday before Whit-Sunday, and August + 23, for black cattle, sheep, and horses. The Edinburgh Mail arrives + 7.49 morning; departs 3.36 afternoon.--_Inn_, Blue Bell. + + +[C] BELLEAU. At this place, which takes it name from the excellent +springs that issue from the chalk hills in the neighbourhood, are the +ruins of what is called the Abbey. These consist of part of a turret, +and two gateways, which convey an idea of its being a place of +considerable importance. The walls are covered with ivy, and overhung +with lofty ash trees. After the civil war, this place was granted to the +eccentric Sir Harry Vane, who used to amuse himself on Sundays in +assembling here his country neighbours, to whom he addressed his pious +discourses. The church of Belleau is said, by Gough, to have been +attached to the neighbouring monastery of Ailby; but neither Tanner nor +the Monasticon mention such a religious house. + +[Sidenote: Abbey Ruins.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------------+---------+-------------+--------------+ + 44|Bellerby chap|N.R. York|Leyburn 1|Richmond 7| + 29|Bellingham[A] m.t. & pa|Northumb |Hexham 16|Haltwhistle 17| + 29|Bellister to|Northumb | ... 16|Aldstone M. 12| + 7|Bell-on-the-Hill |Chesire |Chester 17|Whitchurch 3| + 32|Belmsthorpe ham|Rutland |Stamford 3|Ryhall 1| + 10|Belper[B] ham|Derby |Derby 8|Wirksworth 7| + 29|Belsey to|Northumb |Newcastle 15|Morpeth 10| + 18|Belswains ham|Herts |H. Hempsted 2|Watford 7| + 36|Belstead pa|Suffolk |Ipswich 3|Hadleigh 8| + 11|Belstone pa|Devon |Oakhampton 2|Exeter 21| + 24|Beltoft ham|Lincoln |Gainsboro' 13|Burton 10| + 23|Belton pa|Leicester|Asbhy 6|Kegworth 5| + +--+-----------------------+---------+-------------+--------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+ + 44|Bellerby chap|Middleham 4| 236| 417| + 29|Bellingham[A] m.t. & pa|Wark 4| 294| 1460| + 29|Bellister to|Haltwhistle 2| 281| 120| + 7|Bell-on-the-Hill |Malpas 3| 166| | + 32|Belmsthorpe ham|Essendine 2| 92| | + 10|Belper[B] ham|Ashbourn 12| 134| 7890| + 29|Belsey to|Corbridge 11| 289| 334| + 18|Belswains ham|Ivinghoe 12| 22| | + 36|Belstead pa|Stratford 7| 66| 248| + 11|Belstone pa|Bow 10| 194| 206| + 24|Beltoft ham|Crowle 5| 162| | + 23|Belton pa|Loughboro 7| 116| 735| + +--+-----------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+ + + +[A] BELLINGHAM, lies N. N W. from Hexham. It gave name to an ancient +family, who were seated here in 1378. Some ruins of their castle still +remain. The chapel, dedicated to St. Cuthbert, is roofed with stone +arches in rib-work: there are many gravestones in its floor, sculptured +with swords, and other warlike emblems. Nearly opposite, on the south +side of the North Tyne, is Heslieside, the seat of the Charlton family, +since the time of Edward the Sixth. The old mansion-house, built after +the manner of Lowther Hall, in Westmoreland, was burnt down about eighty +years ago, and then rebuilt. The present edifice stands on a gentle +eminence: the grounds are well wooded, and diversified with fine +sheep-walks; and the gardens and fruit walls are very productive. Five +miles above this place is Falstone chapel; and about seven miles further +up is Keelder Castle, formerly the residence of a famous border +chieftain, but at present a shooting-box of the Duke of Northumberland. +The moors here are scattered over with cairns, tumuli, and Druidical +monuments. Of Tarset Hall, about two miles above Heslieside, only some +slight remains are visible. Of Chipchase Castle, the old tower still +remains. Its roof is built on corbels, and it has openings through which +to throw down stones or scalding water upon an enemy. The tattered +fragments of Gothic painting on the walls, are exceedingly curious. Soon +after it came to the family, (its present owners,) the mansion was +thoroughly repaired, and much improved; the chapel on the lawn was +rebuilt, the gardens made, and the grounds covered with extensive +plantations. This delightful residence is surrounded with scenery of the +richest and most enchanting kind. The rooms in it are fitted up in a +splendid style, and ornamented with several excellent paintings. A +bridge was erected over the Burn at the east end of the town in 1826. + + _Market_, Tuesday.--_Fair_, Saturday after September 15, for cattle, + sheep, linen and woollen cloth. + +[Sidenote: Chipchase Castle.] + + +[B] BELPER, or Belpar, anciently Beaupoire, is situated on the banks of +the Derwent, in the hundred of Appletree. It is a chapelry of Duffield; +and, though formerly an inconsiderable village, its population now +exceeds, with the exception of Derby, every other town in the county. +The great increase of population began from three large cotton mills of +Messrs. Strutts, the first of which was erected in 1776. Two of them yet +remain; but the third was destroyed by fire early in the year 1803. The +largest of these mills is 200 feet long, 300 feet wide, and six stories +high: it is considered fire proof, as the floor is built on brick +arches, and paved with brick. The two water-wheels, which are employed +in the machinery in this building, are remarkable for magnitude and +singularity of construction; one of them being 40 feet long, and 18 in +diameter; and the other 48 feet long, and 12 feet in diameter. As timber +could not be procured large enough to form the axles of these wheels in +the common manner, they are constructed circularly and hollow, of a +number of pieces, and hooped in the manner of a cask. One of the shafts +is six feet in diameter, and the other nine. The shuttles are +constructed in one piece, so as to support the lateral pressure of the +water, although it is ten feet deep, by resting one upon another. This +is different from the usual mode of construction, in which they are +supported by large perpendicular beams at every six or seven feet, in +order to sustain this lateral pressure. About twelve or thirteen hundred +people are employed at these mills; and the proprietors have built many +houses, and a chapel, for their accommodation. Near the mills a stone +bridge of three arches has been erected across the Derwent, at the +expence of the county, the former one having been washed down by a +dreadful flood, in 1795. At a short distance, lower down the river, is a +bleaching mill, belonging to the same proprietors; an iron forge, and +two cotton mills; one of them constructed like that before described. A +stone bridge was also erected here by these gentlemen in 1792. These +mills afford regular employment to about 600 persons. A Sunday school +has been established here, and another at Belper, for the instruction of +the children employed at the cotton works. + + _Market_, Saturday.--_Mail_ arrives 1.30 afternoon; departs 8.45 + morning. + +[Sidenote: Manufactories.] + +[Sidenote: Cotton Mills.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+--------------------+---------+-------------+--------------+ + 24|Belton[A] pa|Lincoln |Grantham 3|Leadenham 8| + 24|Belton pa|Lincoln |Gainsboro' 13|Epworth 2| + 32|Belton pa|Rutland |Uppingham 4|Oakham 7| + 36|Belton pa|Suffolk |Yarmouth 4|Lowestoft 8| + 24|Belvoir[B]ex pa. lib|Leicester|Grantham 7|Newark 16| + 43|Bempton pa|E.R. York|Bridlington 3|Flamborough 3| + +--+--------------------+---------+-------------+--------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+--------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+ + 24|Belton[A] pa|Lincoln 20| 113| 160| + 24|Belton pa|Crowle 5| 162| 1597| + 32|Belton pa|Rockingham 9| 92| 400| + 36|Belton pa|Beccles 9| 121| 124| + 24|Belvoir[B]ex pa. lib|Colterswrth 10| 112| 105| + 43|Bempton pa|Hunmanby 7| 210| 287| + +--+--------------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+ + + +[A] BELTON. The church is a small ancient structure. The tower appears +to have been rebuilt in the year 1637, and at a subsequent period, the +chancel has been renewed. The church is extremely neat, and has in the +south window six pieces of stained glass, illustrative of scriptural +subjects. Within the nave are several splendid monuments. Belton House, +near Grantham, the residence of Earl Brownlow, is situated on a +beautiful lawn, in a wooded valley, through which the river Witham winds +its course. The mansion was built in the year 1689, from designs by Sir +Christopher Wren. The form of the building is that of the letter H, a +stile of architecture peculiar to that period. It is of stone, and +presents four uniform elevations. The apartments are lofty, and well +proportioned. Several of the rooms are highly ornamented with carving by +Gibbons. The late Lord Brownlow made considerable improvements in the +mansion. He took down the cupola and balustrade from the roof. The +drawing room was considerably enlarged, and a new entrance at the south +front made. Here are many pictures by celebrated masters of the Flemish +and Italian schools, with numerous family portraits by Lely, Reynolds, +Kneller, Romney and others. Among the latter we may remark a portrait of +Sir John Cust, Bart., Speaker of the House of Commons, in his robes, by +Sir Joshua Reynolds. William III. in his progress through the northern +counties, honoured Belton House with his presence. The park comprises an +area of five miles in circumference, inclosed by a wall; numerous +plantations of fine trees are highly ornamental to the place. Sir John +Brownlow, K.B. afterwards Viscount Tyrconnel, enriched the library with +a valuable collection of books; he also formed some extensive gardens, +which have since been more adapted to the modern taste in gardening. + +[Sidenote: Belton House.] + + +[B] BELVOIR. The Castle is one of the most magnificent structures in the +kingdom. It is placed on an abrupt elevation of a kind of natural cliff, +forming the termination of a peninsular hill. It has been the seat of +Manners, Dukes of Rutland, for several generations, and claims the +priority of every other building in the county in which it is situated. +Belvoir has been the site of a Castle ever since the Norman conquest; +and its possessors have been chiefly persons of eminence who have +figured in the pages of history. The view from the terraces and towers +comprehends the whole vale of Belvoir and the adjoining country as far +as Lincoln, including twenty-two of the Duke of Rutland's manors. On the +southern slope of the hill are enclosed-terraces, on which there are +several flower-gardens, surrounded by shrubberies. The park is of great +extent, containing fine forest trees, which form a woodland beneath the +hill so extensive as to afford shelter for innumerable rooks. Its +interior and furniture is of the most superb and costly description; it +also contains one of the most valuable collections of paintings in this +country, whether considered for the variety of the schools, or the works +of each master. A conflagration took place in the year 1816, which +consumed a great portion of the ancient part of the castle, and several +of the pictures. A curious anecdote is related, illustrative of the +folly and superstition of ancient times, which may not be uninteresting +to add. Joan Flower and her two; daughters who were servants at Belvoir +Castle, having been dismissed the family, in revenge made use of all the +enchantments, spells, and charms that were at that time supposed to +answer their malicious purposes. Henry the eldest son died soon after +their dismissal, but no suspicion of witchcraft arose till five years +after, when the three women who are said to have entered into a formal +contract with the devil, were accused of "murdering Lord Henry Ross by +witchcraft and torturing the Lord Francis his brother and Lady Catherine +his sister." After various examinations they were committed to Lincoln +gaol. The mother died at Ancaster, on her way thither, having wished the +bread and butter she ate might choak her if she was guilty. The +daughters were tried before Sir Henry Hobbert, Chief Justice of the +Common Pleas, and Sir Edward Bromley, one of the Barons of the +Exchequer; they confessed their guilt and were executed at Lincoln, +March 11, 1618. + +[Sidenote: The Castle.] + +[Sidenote: Charge of witchcraft.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+------------------+----------+-----------+------------+ + 41|Bemerton[A] pa|Wilts |Salisbury 2|Wilton 2| + 36|Benacre pa|Suffolk |Yarmouth 17|Lowestoft 7| + 29|Benridge ham|Northumb |Morpeth 3|Ruthbury 13| + 28|Benefield[B] pa|Northamton|Oundle 3|Weldon 6| + +--+------------------+----------+-----------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+------------------+----------------------+-----+------+ + 41|Bemerton[A] pa|Amesbury 9| 83| | + 36|Benacre pa|Blythburg 8| 108| | + 29|Benridge ham|Blyth 14| 291| 57| + 28|Benefield[B] pa|Corby 8| 85| 519| + +--+------------------+----------------------+-----+------+ + + +[A] BEMERTON, a parish in the hundred of Branch and Dole. The rectory of +this place is interesting, as having been the residence of no less than +four celebrated characters, viz. Dr. Walter Curie, Bishop of Bath and +Wells, and afterwards of Winchester, who died in 1647; George Herbert, +called the divine, who died in 1635; John Norris, a metaphysical writer, +who died in 1711; and, lastly, Mr. Archdeacon Coxe, the traveller and +historian, who died in 1828: all of them gentlemen highly distinguished +in the annals of literature. + +[Sidenote: Celebrated men.] + + +[B] BENEFIELD. In this parish are some remarkable cavities, called +Swallows, which have opened a wide field of speculation among +philosophers, who have grounded, upon the singular phenomena they +exhibit, some new systems with regard to the theory of the earth. These +swallows are situated about a furlong west of the village, and are nine +in number. Through these cavities, the land-flood waters constantly pass +and disappear. They are of a circular form, and of various diameters; +some having an oblique, and others a perpendicular descent, opening +beneath the apertures into large spaces, which exhibit several smaller +conduits, through which the waters pass, to join perhaps, some +subterranean river, or mingle with the grand abyss of waters, which some +philosophers have placed in the centre of the earth. + +[Sidenote: Geological curiosities.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. |Number of Miles From | + +--+---------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ + 5|Bengers ham|Bucks |Colnbrook 3|Uxbridge 3| + 21|Beneden[A] pa|Kent |Cranbrook 3|Tenterden 5| + 13|Benfield-Side ham|Durham |Durham 12|Newcastle 13| + 14|Benfleet, North pa|Essex |Rayleigh 4|Billericay 6| + 14|Benfleet, South[B] pa|Essex | ... 4| ... 9| + 18|Bengeo pa|Hertford |Hertford 1|Ware 2| + 15|Bengrove ham|Gloucester|Tewkesbury 6|Evesbam 7| + 42|Bengworth pa|Worcester |Worchester 16|Pershore 7| + 36|Benhall pa|Suffolk |Saxmundham 2|Frainlingh 5| + 4|Benham to|Berks |Newbury 3|Hungerford 6| + 4|Benham-Hoe ham|Berks | ... 4| ... 6| + 44|Benningborough to|N.R. York |York 7|Boro'bridge 8| + 46|Benningholme to|E.R. York |Beverly 7|Hornsea 7| + 18|Bennington pa|Hertford |Stevenage 5|Buntingford 6| + 24|Bennington pa|Lincoln |Boston 5|Wainfleet 12| + 24|Bennington-Long[C] pa|Lincoln |Grantham 7|Newark 7| + +--+---------------------+----------+-------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+---------------------+------------------------+-----+-------+ + 5|Bengers ham|Slough 4| 18| | + 21|Beneden[A] pa|Rolvenden 3| 51| 1663| + 13|Benfield-Side ham|Wolsingham 12| 270| 543| + 14|Benfleet, North pa|Southend 6| 29| 300| + 14|Benfleet, South[B] pa| ... 6| 32| 533| + 18|Bengeo pa|Watton 5| 22| 855| + 15|Bengrove ham|Pershore 7| 101| | + 42|Bengworth pa|Broadway 5| 100| 850| + 36|Benhall pa|Woodbridge 3| 89| 668| + 4|Benham to|Kinbury 3| 59| | + 4|Benham-Hoe ham| ... 4| 60| | + 44|Benningborough to|Wetherby 10| 204| 93| + 46|Benningholme to|Hull 8| 182| 103| + 18|Bennington pa|Watton 3| 29| 631| + 24|Bennington pa|Burgh 16| 121| 500| + 24|Bennington-Long[C] pa|Leadenham 8| 116| 982| + +--+---------------------+----------+------------+------+-------+ + + +[A] BENENDEN, or Biddenden, three miles south east from Cranbrook, is at +present populous, though the clothing manufacture, which first +occasioned the increase of the population of this part of the county, in +the reign of Edward the Third, has for many years failed here. Several +good houses still remaining, discover the prosperity of the former +inhabitants. The church is a handsome regular building, and its tower a +structure of considerable height and strength. By the old part now +remaining, it appears to have been originally but small. The interior +contains several ancient brasses, and among them, one for the Goldwells +of Great Chart; with the dates 1452, and 1499, in Arabic numerals: the +rebus of this name, a golden fountain, or well, is also in one of the +windows. A free grammar school, now degenerated into a complete +sinecure, was founded here in the year 1522. There is a tradition in +this parish, that a bequest for the use of the poor, of 20 acres of +land, now called the Bread and Cheese land, lying in five pieces, was +given by two maiden sisters, commonly called the "Biddenden Maids," of +the name of Chulkhurst, "who were born joined together by the hips and +shoulders, in the year 1100;" and having lived in that state thirty-four +years, died within about six hours of each other. This tale is affected +to be established by the correspondent figures of two females impressed +on cakes, which after Divine service, in the afternoon, on every Easter +Sunday, are distributed to all comers, and not unfrequently to the +number from 800 to 1000. At the same time, about 270 loaves, weighing +three pounds and a half each, and cheese in proportion, are given to the +poor parishioners; the whole expence being defrayed from the rental of +the bequeathed lands. The marvellous part of the story however, was +wholly discredited by the well informed, until the visit of the Siamese +twins to this country revived it with some appearance of truth. + +[Sidenote: The Biddenden maids.] + + +[B] BENFLEET lies south-west by south from Rayleigh. Here was a castle, +built by Hastings, the celebrated Danish pirate, and which building +Matthew of Westminster described, as having deep and wide ditches. This +fortress Alfred the Great took and destroyed in the year 890; Hasting's +wife and two sons taken therein, were sent to London. The creeks +entering the Thames round Benfleet are celebrated for their oysters. + +[Sidenote: A pirate's castle.] + + +[C] BENNINGTON, called Belintone in the Domesday Book, was a seat of the +Mercian kings; and here a great council of nobility and prelates was +assembled about the year 850, under King Bertulph, who on the complaint +of Askill, a monk of Croyland, of the great devastations committed on +the property of that monastery by the Danes, granted the monks a new +charter of divers "splendid liberties," and several extensive manors. In +the 33d of Edward I. a charter of a weekly market, and a fair annually, +was granted for this manor; but the former has long fallen into disuse! +The manor was long in possession of the Bourchiers, Earls of Essex. +Robert, the third Earl, after his divorce from the infamous Lady Francis +Howard, his first wife, in 1613, sold it to Sir Julius Caesar, Knt., from +whom it descended to his son and heir, Sir Charles Caesar. This gentleman +was appointed Master of the Rolls in 1638; and, after being twice +married, and having fifteen children by both wives, died of the +small-pox, at Bennington, in 1643: this disease proved fatal also to +several of his issue, and among them, to Julius, his eldest surviving +son, who dying within a few days, was buried in the same grave with his +father. Henry, his next son, and heir, represented this county in the +two first parliaments held in the reign of Charles II.; and he was +knighted by that sovereign in 1660: he also died of the small-pox, in +January 1667. This manor was sold to the trustees under the will of Sir +John Cheshire, Knt. His great nephew, John Cheshire, Esq., resided in a +small mansion near the ancient castle at Bennington, which stood +westward from the church, and most probably occupied the spot whereon +stood the palace of the Saxon Kings. The artificial mount of the keep, +with the surrounding ditch, are still to be seen. The old manor-house +that had been inhabited by the Caesars, stood in the park, at a small +distance from the village, but was burnt down about fifty years ago. A +small edifice, since erected on the site, was for some years occupied by +Mr. Bullock. Bennington church is a small fabric, consisting of a nave +and a chancel, with a tower at the west end, and a chapel or +burial-place connected with the chancel on the north. Here are two +ancient monuments, under arches, which form part of them, each +exhibiting recumbent figures of a knight and a lady. Many of the Caesars +lie buried here. The Benstede family, sometime lords of the manor, are +supposed to have built this church, as their arms are displayed both +upon the roof and on the tower. In a niche over the south porch, St. +Michael and the dragon are sculptured. + +[Sidenote: Ancient charters.] + +[Sidenote: The small-pox fatal to Cheshires.] + +[Sidenote: Their monuments.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. |Number of Miles From | + +--+---------------------+----------+-------------+--------------+ + 24|Benningworth pa|Lincoln |Wragby 6|Horncastle 9| + 29|Bewridge to|Northumb |Morpeth 2|Rothbury 12| + 31|Bensinton[A] pa|Oxford |Wallingford 2|Nettlebed 6| + 14|Bentfield ham|Essex |Stanstead 2|B. Stortford 4| + 33|Benthall pa|Salop |Wenlock 3|Madeley 6| + 15|Bentham ham|Gloucester|Gloucester 5|Cheltenham 5| + 44|Bentham pa & to|W.R. York |Settle 12|Ingleton 5| + 16|Bentley pa|Hants |Farnham 4|Alton 6| + 35|Bentley to & lib|Stafford |Walsall 2|S. Coldfield 7| + 36|Bentley pa|Suffolk |Ipswich 6|Manningtree 12| + 39|Bentley ham|Warwick |Atherstone 3|Coleshill 7| + 46|Bentley to|W.R. York |Doncaster 2|Arksey 1| + 10|Bentley, Fenny pa|Derby |Ashborne 3|Wirksworth 8| + 14|Bentley, Great pa|Essex |Colchester 9|Manningtree 9| + 10|Bentley, Hungry to|Derby |Ashborne 6|Derby 10| + 14|Bentley, Little pa|Essex |Manningtree 5|Colchester 9| + 42|Bentley, Up. & L. ham|Worcester |Bromsgrove 3|Redditch 3| + 29|Benton, Little to|Northumb |Newcastle 4|N. Shields 6| + 29|Benton, Long[B] pa|Northumb | ... 4| ... 6| + +--+---------------------+----------+-------------+--------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+---------------------+------------------------+-----+--------+ + 24|Benningworth pa|Louth 9| 145| 373| + 29|Bewridge to|Blyth 11| 290| 53| + 31|Bensinton[A] pa|Dorchester 3| 46| 1266| + 14|Bentfield ham|Saff. Walden 9| 34| 505| + 33|Benthall pa|Wellington 7| 150| 525| + 15|Bentham ham|Painswick 7| 104| | + 44|Bentham pa & to|Lancaster 13| 247| 3957| + 16|Bentley pa|Odiham 6| 42| 728| + 35|Bentley to & lib|Lichfield 8| 120| 99| + 36|Bentley pa|Harwich 18| 69| 363| + 39|Bentley ham|Birmingham 16| 106| 270| + 46|Bentley to|Thorne 10| 164| 1144| + 10|Bentley, Fenny pa|Derby 16| 142| 308| + 14|Bentley, Great pa|Harwich 13| 60| 978| + 10|Bentley, Hungry to|Uttoxeter 9| 136| 92| + 14|Bentley, Little pa|Harwich 10| 60| 438| + 42|Bentley, Up. & L. ham|Birmingham 14| 113| | + 29|Benton, Little to|Blyth 9| 278| | + 29|Benton, Long[B] pa| ... 9| 278| 5547| + +--+---------------------+------------------------+-----+--------+ + + +[A] BENSINGTON was an ancient British town, taken from the original +inhabitants by Ceaulin, in the year 572. The west Saxons held the place +for two centuries, and appear to have constructed a castle for its +defence; but it was reduced by Offa, king of the Mercians, who defeated +his rival in a sanguinary contest. To the west of the church are a +quadrangular bank and trench. Three sides of the embankment are much +defaced. Plot mentions an "angle of King Offa's palace near the church;" +by which he probably alludes to the same spot. In this village are +several modern buildings. The church, which is gothic, has been built at +different times. In the brick flooring of the nave are some ancient +stones, with mutilated brasses. Here is a Sunday-school supported by +subscription; and a meeting-house for methodists. + +[Sidenote: A Mercian King.] + + +[B] LONG BENTON. A dreadful calamity occurred at Heaton Colliery, in +this neighbourhood, on the morning of May 3, 1815, when, by the sudden +influx of water from an old mine, Mr. Miller, (the under-viewer, who +left a wife and eight children), 22 workmen, 42 boys, and 37 horses, +perished; and 25 widows, with about 80 children, were left to bemoan the +sudden death of their husbands and fathers. Steam-engines were +immediately employed, and every exertion was made for the recovery of +the bodies; notwithstanding which, it was not till the 6th of January, +in the following year, that the first body was found. It was that of an +old man employed on the waggon-way: and a fact worthy of notice is, that +the waste-water in which he had been immersed had destroyed the woollen +clothes, and corroded the iron parts of a knife the deceased had in his +pocket, yet his linen and the bone-haft of his knife remained entire. +Shortly after, Mr. Miller, and a few others, were discovered: they had +met a similar fate, having been overtaken by the water about a hundred +yards from the shaft to which they had been hastening to save +themselves. But the lot of these eight persons may be considered +fortunate, when compared with the unhappy beings left at work towards +the rise of the mine, and as yet unconscious of their dreadful +situation. About the 16th of February, the higher parts of the workings +were explored; and now a scene truly horrible was presented to view: for +here lay the corpses of 56 human beings, whom the water had never +reached, being situated 35 fathoms above its level. They had collected +together near the crane, and were found within a space of 30 yards of +each other; their positions and attitudes were various; several appeared +to have fallen forwards from off an inequality, or rather step, in the +coal on which they had been sitting; others, from their hands being +clasped together, seemed to have expired while addressing themselves to +the protection of the Deity; two, who were recognized as brothers, had +died in the act of taking a last farewell by grasping each other's hand: +and one poor boy reposed in his father's arms. Two slight cabins had +been hastily constructed by nailing up deal boards, and in one of these +melancholy habitations three of the stoutest miners had breathed their +last. A large lump of horse flesh, wrapped up in a jacket, nearly two +pounds of candles, and three others, which had died out when +half-burned, were found in this apartment, if it can be so called. One +man, well known to have possessed a remarkably pacific disposition, had +retired to a distance to end his days alone, and in quiet. Another had +been placed to watch the rise or fall of the water; to ascertain which, +sticks had been placed, and was found dead at his post. There were two +horses in the part of the mine to which the people had retired; one had +been slaughtered, its entrails taken out, and hind quarters cut up for +use; the other was fastened to a stake, which it had almost gnawed to +pieces, as well as a corfe or coal basket that had been left within its +reach. That these ill-fated people perished for want of respirable air, +and not from hunger and thirst, is certain; for most of the flesh cut +from the horse, with a considerable quantity of horse-beans, were +unconsumed, and a spring of good water issued into this part of the +colliery; besides, the unburned remains of candles afford evidence of a +still stronger nature; and by these data the coroner's jury was enabled +to pronounce a verdict accordingly. The overman had left the +chalk-board, in which it is usual to take down an account of the work +done, together with his pocket-book, in an empty corfe; on these some +memorandum might have been expected to be noted: but no writing +subsequent to the catastrophe appeared on either.--The bodies of those +men which had lain in wet places were much decayed; but where the floor +was dry, though their flesh had become much shrivelled, they were all +easily recognised by their features being entire. + +[Sidenote: Dreadful accident.] + +[Sidenote: Fifty-six lives lost in a mine.] + +[Sidenote: Cause of their death.] + + Map|Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------+----------+------------+--------------+ + 45|Bents-Green |W.R. York |Sheffield 3|Bakewell 13| + 16|Bentworth pa|Hants |Alton 5|Alresford 8| + 12|Benville ham|Dorset |Beaminster 4|Crewkherne 6| + 23|Benwell to|Northumb |Newcastle 2|Corbridge 14| + 6|Benwick chap|Cambridge |March 6|Chatteris 6| + 42|Beoley pa|Worcester |Bromsgrove 8|Redditch 3| + 38|Bepton pa|Sussex |Midhurst 3|Petersield 9| + 14|Berdin pa|Essex |Stanstead 6|Saff. Walden 9| + 15|Berdwick ham|Gloucester|Bristol 8|Marshfield 4| + 14|Bere-Church pa|Essex |Colchester 2|Coggeshall 10| + 12|Bere ham|Dorset |Blandford 7|Shaftesbury 8| + 16|Bere-Lay ham|Hants |Newport 7|Niton 2| + 36|Bergholt, East pa|Suffolk |Hadleigh 6|Ipswich 8| + 14|Bergholt, West pa|Essex |Colchester 4|Witham 13| + +--+-----------------+----------+------------+--------------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+ + 45|Bents-Green |Castleton 12| 163| | + 16|Bentworth pa|Basingstoke 8| 52| 592| + 12|Benville ham|Yeovil 8| 130| | + 23|Benwell to|Hexham 18| 276| 1278| + 6|Benwick chap|Peterborough 6| 81| 526| + 42|Beoley pa|Birmingham 11| 112| 673| + 38|Bepton pa|Chichester 10| 53| 166| + 14|Berdin pa|Bis. Stortford 6| 36| 342| + 15|Berdwick ham|Sodbury 5| 97| | + 14|Bere-Church pa|Aberton 3| 52| 142| + 12|Bere ham|Sturminster 5| 109| | + 16|Bere-Lay ham|Shanklin 10| 93| | + 36|Bergholt, East pa|Manningtree 3| 63| 1360| + 14|Bergholt, West pa|Halstead 10| 10| 786| + +--+-----------------+-----------------------+-----+--------+ + + Map| Names of Places. | County. |Number of Miles From | + +--+---------------------+----------+---------+-----------+ + 15|Berkeley[A] m.t. & pa|Gloucester|Dursley 6|Chepstow 13| + 34|Berkeley pa|Somerset |Frome 3|Bath 12| + +--+---------------------+----------+---------+-----------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From|Lond.|Population. + +--+---------------------+--------------------+-----+-----+ + 15|Berkeley[A] m.t. & pa|Thornbury 7| 114| 3899| + 34|Berkeley pa|Warminster 7| 103| 531| + +--+---------------------+--------------------+-----+-----+ + + +[A] BERKELEY. This ancient, but small town, is situated upon a pleasant +eminence in the beautiful vale of Berkeley, almost east from the Severn. +In the Domesday book, it is termed a royal domain and free borough. A +nunnery is said to have existed here in the reign of Edward the +Confessor; the frail sisters of which were dispossessed of their +estates, including the manor, by the craft of Earl Godwin, who found +means to introduce into the community a profligate young man, by whom +the nuns were seduced. This conduct being reported to the King, the +nunnery was dissolved, and its possessions granted to the Earl. The +Conqueror afterwards bestowed the manor on Roger, surnamed De Berkeley, +a chieftain who had accompanied him to England. Roger, his grandson, +taking part with Stephen, against Henry II., was deprived of his lands; +and Berkeley was given by that monarch to Robert Fitzharding, Governor +of Bristol, in reward for his eminent services. This nobleman was +descended from the Kings of Denmark, and in his posterity the extensive +manor of Berkeley, one of the largest in England, is still vested. +Berkeley church appears to be of the age of Henry II., though it has +undergone various alterations. Near the pulpit is a curious tomb, in +memory of Thomas, second Lord Berkeley, and Margaret, his first wife. +Here also are various other monuments of this family. The tower, which +stands at some distance from the church, was constructed about seventy +years ago. In the churchyard is the well known ludicrous epitaph, +written by Dean Swift, in memory of "Dickey Pearce, the Earl of +Suffolk's fool." Berkeley Castle appears to have been founded by Roger +de Berkeley, soon after the Conquest; but various important additions +were made to it during the reigns of Henry II., Edward II., and Edward +III. The form of the castle approaches nearest to that of a circle; and +the buildings are included by an irregular court, with a moat. The keep +is flanked by three semi-circular towers, and a square one of subsequent +construction: its walls are high and massive: the entrance into it is +under an arched doorway, with ornamental sculpture in the Norman style, +similar to one at Arundel Castle. This fortress has been the scene of +various memorable transactions; the most remarkable, perhaps, was that +of the murder of Edward II., in September, 1327, thus noticed by Gray:-- + + "Mark the year, and mark the night, + When Severn shall re-echo with affright, + The shrieks of death through Berkeley's roofs that ring; + Shrieks of an agonising King!" + +Tradition states, that when the murder of King Edward had been +determined on, Adam, Bishop of Hereford, at the instigation of the +Queen, wrote to the keeper the following words; which, not possessing +the distinctness imported by punctuation, were capable of a double +construction: + + "Edwardum occidere nolite timere bonum est." + Edward the King kill not to fear is good. + +The keeper, easily divining the wicked wishes of his employer, put his +royal master to death. According to another account, when the death of +this unfortunate, but weak sovereign, had been resolved on by the Queen +and Mortimer, her infamous paramour, he was removed from Kenelworth to +Berkeley Castle, by Sir John Maltravers and Sir Thomas Gourney, to whose +keeping he had been previously committed. Thomas, second Lord Berkeley, +then owner of the castle, treated him with civility and kindness, but +was, in a short time, obliged to relinquish his fortress to the +government of Maltravers and Gourney, by whom the King was soon +afterwards murdered, in the most brutal and savage manner. "His crie," +says Holinshed, "did move many within the castell and town of Birckelei +to compassion, plainly hearing him utter a waileful noyse, as the +tormentors were about to murder him; so that dyvers being awakened +thereby, (as they themselves confessed,) prayed heartilie to God to +receyve his soule, when they understode by his crie what the matter +ment." A small apartment, called the dungeon room, over the flight of +steps leading into the keep, is shewn as the place where the cruel deed +was committed: at that time, all the light it received was from arrow +slits; the windows have been since introduced. A plaister cast kept +here, and said to have been moulded from the King's face after death, +is, in reality, a cast from his effigies on the tomb at Gloucester. +Berkeley Castle, during the civil wars, was held for the King; and +frequent skirmishes took place in the town and neighbourhood. In 1645 it +was besieged, and surrendered to the parliament, after a defence of nine +days. In the apartments, which are mostly low, dark, and void of +proportion, are preserved a numerous assemblage of portraits, chiefly of +the Stratton branch, the bequest of the last heir of that family. +Besides these portraits, here are several miniatures of the Berkeleys, +of considerable antiquity, and so far curious. A few landscapes, by +Wouvermans, Claude, Salvator Rosa, &c. complete the Berkeley collection. +Edward Jenner, an English physician, celebrated for having introduced +the practice of vaccination, as a preventive of the small-pox, was the +youngest son of a clergyman, who held the rectory of Rochampton, and the +vicarage of this place, and the son was born here, May 17, 1749. Being +destined for the medical profession, he was, after a common school +education, placed as an apprentice with a very respectable surgeon, at +Sodbury, in his native country. He visited London, to finish his +studies, by attending the lectures of the celebrated anatomist John +Hunter. Returning to the country, he settled here, as a practitioner of +the various branches of his profession. A situation like this afforded +but little leisure or opportunity for acquiring distinction, and an +occasion presented itself for obtaining a larger field for observation, +improvement, and emolument: this, however, he was induced to decline. +The circumstances of the transaction are thus related by Dr. Lettsom, in +his address to the London Medical Society:--"Dr. Jenner happened to dine +with a large party at Bath, when something was introduced at the table +which required to be warmed by the application of the candle, and doubts +were expressed by several persons present, whether the most speedy way +would be to keep the flame at a little distance under, or to immerse the +substance into it. Jenner desired that the candle might be placed near +him, and immediately putting his finger into the flame, suffered it to +remain some time; next he put his finger above it, but he was obliged to +snatch it away immediately. 'This, gentlemen,' said he, 'is a sufficient +test.' The next day he received a note from General Smith, who had been +of the party the preceding day, and who was before that time an utter +stranger, offering him an appointment in India, which would insure him, +in the course of two or three years, an annual income L3,000. The offer +was referred to his brother, and Jenner, from his attachment to him, +declined it." He had already obtained the reputation of a man of talent +and science, when he made known to the world the very important +discovery which has raised him to an enviable situation among the +benefactors of the human race. His investigations concerning the cow-pox +were commenced about the year 1776, when his attention was excited by +the circumstance of finding that some individuals, to whom he attempted +to communicate the small-pox by inoculation, were insusceptible of the +disease; and on inquiry he found that all such patients, though they had +never had the small-pox, had undergone the casual cow-pox, a disease +common among the farmers and dairy-servants in Gloucestershire, who were +not quite unacquainted with its preventive effect. Other medical men +were aware of the prevalence of this opinion; but they treated it as a +popular prejudice, and Jenner seems to have been the first who +ascertained its correctness, and endeavoured to derive from it some +practical advantage. He discovered that the variolae vaccinae, as the +complaint has been since termed, having, in the first-instance, been +produced by accidental or designed innoculation of the matter afforded +by a peculiar disease affecting the udder of a cow, could be propagated +from one human subject to another by inoculation, to an indefinite +extent, rendering all who passed through it secure from the small-pox. +He made known his discovery to some medical friends, and in the month of +July, 1796, Mr. Cline, surgeon to St. Thomas's Hospital, introduced +vaccination into the metropolis. So singular and anomalous a fact as the +prevention of an infectious disease by means of another, in many +respects extremely differing from it, could not but be received with +hesitation; and a warm controversy took place on the subject among the +medical faculty. This ultimately proved advantageous both to the +discovery and the discoverer, as it terminated in establishing the truth +of the most important positions which he had advanced, and left him in +full possession of the merit due to him as a successful investigator of +the laws of nature. The practice of vaccine inoculation was adopted in +the army and navy, and honours and rewards were conferred on the author +of the discovery. The diploma constituting him doctor of medicine, was +presented to Jenner as a tribute to his talents, by the University of +Oxford; he was chosen a fellow of the Royal Society, and of other +learned associations; and a parliamentary grant was made to him of the +sum of L20,000. The extension of the benefits of vaccination to foreign +countries spread the fame of the discoverer, who received several +congratulatory addresses from continental potentates. The emperor of +Russia, when in this country in 1814, sought an interview with Dr. +Jenner, treated him with great attention, and offered to bestow on him a +Russian order of nobility. He also visited the King of Prussia, Marshal +Blucher, and the Cossack General, Count Platoff, the latter of whom said +to him, "Sir, you have extinguished the most pestilential disorder that +ever appeared on the banks of the Don." On receiving his diploma, Dr. +Jenner practised as a physician at Cheltenham, during the season, and +that watering-place was his principal residence till he became a +widower, when he removed to Berkeley, to spend in retirement the evening +of his life. He died suddenly in consequence of apoplexy, January 26, +1823, and was interred in the parish church of this town. + + _Market_, Wednesday.--_Fair_, May 14, for cattle and pigs. + +[Sidenote: The nunnery.] + +[Sidenote: The castle.] + +[Sidenote: Murder of Edward II.] + +[Sidenote: Besieged by the Parliament.] + +[Sidenote: Edward Jenner.] + +[Sidenote: Anecdote.] + +[Sidenote: Discovery of vaccination by the cow-pox.] + +[Sidenote: Jenner's subsequent fame.] + + Map| Names of Places. |County.|Number of Miles From | + +--+--------------------------------+-------+-----------+-----------+ + 18|Berkhampstead, Gr.[A] m.t. & pa|Herts |Watford 12|Tring 5| + 18|Berkhampstead, Little pa|Herts |Hertford 5|Hatfield 5| + 39| Berkeswell pa|Warwick|Coventry 7|Solihull 7| + +--+--------------------------------+-------+-----------+-----------+ + + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles |Dist.|Popul + | From |Lond.|-ation. + +--+--------------------------------+-------------------+-----+-----+ + 18|Berkhampstead, Gr.[A] m.t. & pa|Dunstable 11| 26| 2369| + 18|Berkhampstead, Little pa|Hoddesdon 6| 19| 450| + 39| Berkeswell pa|Meriden 2| 93| 1450| + +--+--------------------------------+-------------------+-----+-----+ + + +[A] BERKHAMPSTEAD. "The Saxons, in old time," observes Norden, "called +this town Berghamstedt, because it was seated among the hills; for Berg +signified a hill; ham, a town; and stedt, a seat; all of which was very +proper for the situation hereof." The buildings are chiefly of brick, +and irregular, but intersected with various handsome houses. +Berkhampstead consists of one principal street, about half a mile in +length, extending along the side of the high road; and another smaller +one branching out from the church towards the site of the castle. The +Grand Junction Canal runs the whole length of the town, and very close +to it, which makes it a place of considerable trade. Many respectable +and genteel families reside here, and hold their monthly balls at the +King's Arms Inn, during the winter. The King of Mercia had a palace or +castle here; and the town had attained sufficient importance at the time +of the Conquest, to be appointed as the place of meeting between the +Norman sovereign, and the chiefs of the confederacy formed against his +power, and headed by Abbot Fretheric, of St. Alban's. "In the brough," +says the Domesday Book, "are two and fifty burgesses, who pay four +pounds a year for toll; and they have half a hide, and two shillings +rent, common of pasture for the cattle, wood to feed a thousand hogs, +and five shillings rent by the year. Its whole value is sixteen pounds. +The castle erected by the Saxons was enlarged, strengthened, and +fortified with additional outworks, by the Earl of Mortaigne; but in the +time of his son and successor, William, who had rebelled against Henry +I., it was seized, and ordered to be razed to the ground." It is +probable, however, that the demolition was only partial, as it was again +fitted up as a royal residence, either in the time of Stephen, or early +in the reign of Henry II. The castle and honour of Berkhampstead +continued in the possession of the crown till the seventh of King John, +who granted them to the Earl of Essex, for L100. per annum. In the year +1216 the castle, which had been reverted to the crown, was besieged by +Lewis, Dauphin of France, in conjunction with certain English barons. +The garrison, taking advantage of the negligence of the besiegers, made +two successful sallies on the same day, capturing divers chariots, arms, +and provisions; but, after a siege of some continuance, they +surrendered. Henry III. granted the Earldom of Cornwall, with the honour +and castle of Berkhampstead, to Richard, his brother, for his services +at the siege of the castle of Riole, in France; but, disagreeing with +him, he revoked the grant. The interposition of the Earls of Pembroke +and Chester occasioned its restoration to the Earl of Cornwall. In 1245, +the King granted him an annual fair, of eight days' continuance, for his +manor of Berkhampstead; and here, after a long illness, he died on the +4th of April, 1272. Edmund, his only surviving son, succeeded to his +estates and titles; and in his time there were twelve burgesses within +the borough, with fifty-two free tenants, and twenty-two tenants by +serjeancy. This Earl founded the college of Bon-Hommes, at Ashridge, in +Buckinghamshire. In the fourth of Edward III., John of Eltham, brother +to the King, had a grant of Berkhampstead, with other manors, to the +value of 2,000 marks per annum: but, dying without issue, in 1336, his +estates were granted by the King, to Edward the Black Prince, with the +Dukedom of Cornwall, to be held by him and his heirs, and the eldest +sons of the heirs of the King's of England. Richard II. occasionally +resided at Berkhampstead castle. Since that period, the castle and +honour of Berkhampstead have descended from the crown, to the successive +Princes of Wales, as heirs apparent to the throne, and possessors of the +Dukedom of Cornwall, under the grant of Edward III. The castle was +situated on the east side of the town; and, though the buildings are now +reduced to a few massive fragments of wall, the remains are still +sufficient to evince the ancient strength and importance of this +fortress. The ramparts are very bold, and the ditches still wide and +deep, particularly on the north and east sides, though partly filled up +by the lapse of centuries. The keep was a circular tower, occupying the +summit of a high and steep artificial mount, moated round. Large trees +are now growing on the sides of the mount, as well as on many parts of +the outward rampart, and declivities of the ditches: other parts are +covered with underwood, in many places so thick as to be impassable. The +inner court is now an orchard; the outer court is cultivated as a farm; +and a small cottage, with a few out-buildings, now occupies a portion of +the ground once occupied by Princes and Sovereigns. Near the rampart, on +the west side, flows the little river Bulbourne. The church, dedicated +to St. Peter, is built in the form of a cross, with a tower rising from +the intersection towards the west end, and having a projecting staircase +at the south-east angle, terminated by a turret at the summit. The tower +is supported on strong pointed arches, and was originally open, but is +now closed from the church by the belfry floor. On the outside of the +tower, next the street, is a sculpture of an angel supporting a shield, +impaled with the arms of England and France quarterly. The same arms are +painted on glass in the window of a small chapel within the church. +Various chapels and chantries were founded here in the Catholic times, +and are still partially divided from the body of the church. The +sepulchral memorials are numerous. Between two columns of the nave, +surrounded by pews, is an ancient tomb of rich workmanship, having on +the top, full-length effigies of a Knight and his Lady, both recumbent. +The Knight is represented in armour, with his hands raised in the +attitude of prayer across his breast: his head rests on a helmet, having +a human head, with a long beard, at the upper end; his feet are +supported on a lion: he has on a hood and gorget of mail; and, on the +sash, which crosses his body and shoulder, is a rose: opposite to this, +on his breast-plate, is a dove. The figure of the lady is greatly +mutilated; her hands and head are broken off; the latter rests on a +cushion, and is covered with net-work; she is arrayed in a close dress, +and has a rose on each shoulder. No inscription is remaining on this +tomb to designate the persons to whose memory it was erected. Torynton +is supposed to have been the founder of the church; a man in special +favour with Edmond Plantagenet, Duke of Cornwall. In Sayer's chancel is +an altar-tomb of alabaster and black marble, in the memory of John +Sayer, Esq., who was chief cook to Charles II. when in exile, and +founder of the alms-house for poor widows in this town. A large and +strong building of brick, erected as a free-school in the reign of Henry +VIII., and endowed with the lands of the guild or brotherhood of St. +John the Baptiste, (an ancient foundation in this town,) stands at the +bottom of the churchyard. In the next reign the school was made a royal +foundation, and incorporated. The master is appointed by the crown, and +has apartments at one end of the free school; the school-room occupies +the centre; and the other end is inhabited by the chaplain and usher. +Here is also a charity-school, supported by voluntary contributions, &c. +Numerous donations for charitable purposes have been made to this +parish, the principal of which was a bequest of L1,000., made by John +Sayer, Esq., in July, 1681, for the building and endowment of an alms +house: this was erected after his decease by his relict, who placed in +it six poor widows, and increased the original endowment by the gift of +L300. Each widow has a small allowance weekly, and a cloth gown worth +20s. once in two years. In the 14th of Edward III., two representatives +were sent from this borough; but this was the only return ever made, +except to the great council held at Westminster, in the 11th of the same +King. Berkhampstead had a charter of incorporation granted by James I., +but it scarcely survived the reign of his son. An attempt was made to +revive the charter, a year or two after the restoration, but it did not +succeed. The honour of Berkhampstead formerly included upwards of +fifty-five lordships and manors, in the three counties of Herts, +Northampton, and Buckingham. Berkhampstead-place is situated on a +pleasant eminence adjoining the town. Great part of the structure was +erected by the Careys, having been burnt down in the time of the Lord +Treasurer Weston, who then resided in it: the remainder was afterwards +repaired, and with some additions, forms the present dwelling. King +James's children were mostly nursed in this house. The life of Cowper, +the poet, who was born here, will be given at Olney, on account of the +length of the present article. + + _Market_, Saturday.--_Fairs_, Shrove-Monday, Whit-Monday, for cattle; + Aug. 5, cheese; September 29, Oct. 11, statute.--_Mail_ arrives 11.30 + night; departs 3.30 morning.--_Inn_, Kings Arms. + +[Sidenote: Description.] + +[Sidenote: Its ancient castle.] + +[Sidenote: The seat of Kings and Nobles.] + +[Sidenote: Now in ruins.] + +[Sidenote: The church.] + +[Sidenote: Free school.] + +[Sidenote: Contained fifty-five lordships.] + + Map|Names of Places.| County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------+----------+------------+------------+ + 4|Berkshire[A] co| | | | + 29|Berling to|Northumb. |Alnwick 7|Felton 7| + 35|Bermersley to|Stafford |Newcastle 6|Leek 7| + +--+----------------+----------+------------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places.|Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------+-----------------------+-----+------+ + 4|Berkshire[A] co| | |145289| + 29|Berling to|Widrington 7| 306| | + 35|Bermersley to|Cheadle 11| 156| 244| + +--+----------------+-----------------------+-----+------+ + + +[A] BERKSHIRE. This county was originally inhabited by three tribes or +nations, termed by the Romans Attrebates, Bibroces, and Segontiaci. The +first occupied part of the west, the south-west and north-west parts. +The second the south-east parts; and the third a portion of the north +parts. Under the Romans, this county formed part of the first division +called Britannia Prima. During the Heptarchy it belonged to the West +Saxons. It was once called Berrocshire, from the name of a hill covered +with box, which at one time occupied a large portion of it. It is an +inland county, bounded on the north by the Thames, which divides it from +Oxfordshire on the west, and Bucks on the east; and by part of Surrey; +on the north by Surrey and Hampshire; and on the west by Wilts and a +small part of Gloucestershire. It is so very irregular in its shape as +not to admit of any adequate description. Its greatest length is about +forty-eight miles, and its utmost breadth from north to south about +twenty-five. In one of the narrowest parts, by Reading, it is about six +or seven miles, and less still at the eastern extremity. It contains +about 464,500 acres, and is about 140 miles in circumference; it is in +the province of Canterbury, and the diocese of Salisbury; (the parish of +Chilton, which is in the diocese of Oxford, and Langford, which is in +that of Lincoln, excepted;) subject to an archdeacon, and is divided +into six deaneries. It is included in the Oxford circuit. There are 20 +hundreds, 12 market towns, 148 parishes (of which 67 are vicarages,) and +671 villages. The natural divisions of the county are four, 1. The Vale, +beginning at Budcot, and ending at Streatley. 2. The Chalky Hills, +running nearly through the centre of the lower part of the county. 3. +The Vale of the Kennet, extending diagonally from Hungerford to near +Wargrave. 4. The Forest Division, commencing on the east to Loddon, and +occupying nearly the entire breadth of this part of the county to Old +Windsor, and from Sandhurst south to Maidenhead north. The air is deemed +peculiarly salubrious, particularly on the chalky and gravelly soils, +which are the most common throughout the county; but the uneven face of +the country causes some slight degree of variation in this particular, +though every part is considered healthful and good. The soil is as +various (though perhaps more mixed) as in the last described county. The +Vale of White Horse consists generally of a rich strong loam and gravel, +with some sand and stone brasp, producing corn, wheat, beans, &c. In the +Chalk Hill district, light black earth on chalk prevails, with flint, +chalk, gravel, and loam. Here numerous sheep are fed; it produces, +towards the south and east, turnips, barley; and, when properly manured, +Lammas wheat and artificial grasses. The Vale of Kennet, is generally +peat land, with gravel, loam and clay, though in the south east parts a +poor stony and heathy soil. The Forest District, gravel, clay, and loam, +except on the south, which is poor and heathy. The principal rivers and +streams are the Thames, the Kennet, the Loddon, the Lambourn, the Ock, +the Aubourn, the Emme, and the Broadwater. All these, with perhaps the +exception of the Aubourn, the Emme, and the Broadwater, abound with +almost every kind of fresh water fish. Besides these rivers and streams, +there are the Ginge Brook, the Moreton Brook, and other rivulets, &c.; +also some other natural and artificial lakes and ponds. Water, however, +is generally scarce on the Berkshire downs, and along the whole of the +chalky stratum. The navigable rivers are the Thames and the Kennet. The +navigable canals are the Kennet and Avon canal, which joins the river +Kennet a little above Newbury; the entire length from Newbury to Bath is +sixty miles--it has been navigable since the year 1798; and the Wilts +and Berks canal, opened on September 21, 1810, into the Thames at +Abingdon; from near Bath to Abingdon, about fifty-one and three-quarter +miles. Mineral waters are by no means common in this county. The natural +productions of this county, except those which may be considered partly +agricultural, are neither plentiful or important. There are no minerals +nor fossils of any great consequence. The strata of sand with +oyster-shells, and particularly a thick stratum of chalk, is found near +Reading. The surface of the soil, however, amply compensates for the +apparent barrenness of the internal parts; and the produce of fat +cattle, sheep, swine, and grain, is immense; as is also that of fine +timber, especially oak and beech. Abingdon gives the title of Earl to +the Bertie family--Coleshill, that of Baron to the Pleydell-Bouverie +family--Foxley, that of Baron to the Townshend family--Hungerford, that +of Baron to the Rawdon-Hastings family--Mortimer, the title of Earl to +the Harley family--Newbury, that of Baron to the Cholmondely +family--Uffingham, that of Viscount to the Craven family--and Windsor, +the title of Baron to the Windsor-Hickman family; and Earl, to the +Stuarts. It has been calculated, that, including houses, mills, and +other productive revenue arising from or attached to the soil, the +landed property cannot amount to less than L500,000 per annum, and that +the largest possessor may have about L8000. The largest possessor, being +a peer, is the Earl of Craven. The Craven, Englefield, Eyston, Read, +Southby, Seymour, and Clarke families are among the few ancient families +who still inherit the same estates, and occupy the same seats, or are +immediately connected with the county, as their ancestors. Among the +representatives of some very old families, or in the female line, may be +ranked the Berties, the Nevilles, the Pleydells, the Puseys, the +Throckmortons, the Lovedens, the Nelsons, and the Blagraves. The King is +purposely omitted in this brief list:--his possessions as a landed +proprietor being well known. Agriculture so much engrosses the attention +of the people of Berkshire, that very little trade, unconnected with +these pursuits is carried on. There are, however, some manufactories of +sail-cloth, kerseys, canvass, and malt; and there are also several +pretty large breweries in various parts of the county: the Windsor ale +having acquired considerable celebrity; and at the Temple mills, near +Bisham, there is a copper manufacture, and a manufacture of potash at +Milton. + +[Sidenote: Its ancient division into three nations.] + +[Sidenote: Air, soil, and rivers.] + +[Sidenote: Natural productions.] + +[Sidenote: Ancient and noble families.] + + Map|Names of Places.| County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------+----------+--------------+-------------+ + 7|Bermondsey[A] pa|Surrey |Bank of Eng. 1|Westm. Ab. 2| + 9|Berrier to|Cumberland|Penrith 8|Keswick 10| + 36|Berriew |Montgomery|Welch Pool 5|Newtown 9| + 5|Berrington ham|Gloucester|Stow 7|Moreton 8| + 33|Berrington pa|Salop |Shrewsbury 5|Wellington 10| + 42|Berrington to|Worcester |Tenbury 3|Leominster 8| + 34|Berrow pa|Somerset |Axbridge 9|Weston 8| + 42|Berrow pa|Worcester |Upton 5|Malvern 6| + ?1|Berry Narbor pa|Devon |Ilfracombe 3|Barnstaple 8| + +--+----------------+----------+--------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places.| Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------+-------------------------+-----+-------+ + 7|Bermondsey[A] pa|Rotherhithe 1| 1| 29741| + 9|Berrier to|Carlisle 20| 291| 113| + 36|Berriew |Montgomery 4| 172| 2429| + 5|Berrington ham|Evesham 8| 94| 129| + 33|Berrington pa|Act. Burnell 10| 152| 684| + 42|Berrington to|Ludlow 7| 133| 165| + 34|Berrow pa|Bridgewater 12| 139| 496| + 42|Berrow pa|Tewkesbury 7| 110| 507| + ?1|Berry Narbor pa|C. Martin 3| 201| 794| + +--+----------------+-------------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BERMONDSEY stretches along the banks of the Thames, from Southwark +to Deptford, and Rotherhithe eastward, and is much inhabited by +woolstaplers, fellmongers, curriers, parchment-makers, and other +manufacturers, with such craftsmen as are connected with the +construction and management of shipping. A priory for monks was founded +here in 1082, by Aylwin Child, a citizen of London, and endowed by the +second William with his manor of Bermondsey. In 1399, it was made an +abbey, and at the dissolution, it was granted to Sir Thomas Pope, who +built on its site a large house, which afterwards became the property +and residence of the Earls of Sussex. Another part of the site is called +the Abbey House. Catherine, the Queen of Henry V., and Elizabeth, Queen +of Edward IV. retired to this place, where they died, the former in +1436; the latter soon after the forfeiture of her lands, by an order of +the Council, in 1486. The church was erected in 1680, of brick, with a +low square tower and turret, and consists of a chancel, nave, two +aisles, and a transept. A free school was founded here by Mr. Josiah +Bacon, and endowed with a revenue of L150. for the instruction of not +more than sixty, or fewer than forty boys. A charity-school was also +established, by contributions, in 1755, for the education of fifty boys +and thirty girls, and was afterwards endowed by Mr. Nathaniel Smith, +with a revenue of L40. per annum. The Bermondsey Spa was discovered in +1770, and, by means of the attractive entertainments contrived by the +proprietor, became a place of general resort; but soon after his death +the gardens were closed, and the area is now built upon. This suburban +parish long retained a very antique air from the age of several of its +streets and houses, many of which were built of wood. But the spirit of +improvement has gradually amended its appearance: an act of parliament +was passed in the year 1823, for watching, paving, cleansing, and +lighting the parish. A new church has been erected here for the +convenience of the parishioners, at a moderate distance from the mother +church; it is, however, subordinate to the original rectory. + +[Sidenote: Royal residence.] + +[Sidenote: Church and schools.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County.| Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------------+--------+-------------+-------------+ + 52|Bersham Drelincourt to|Denbigh |Holt 6|Llangollen 12| + 38|Bersted, South pa|Sussex |Chichester 5|Arundel 9| + 38|Berwick pa|Sussex |Lewes 8|Seaford 4| + 33|Berwick, Gt. & L. ham|Salop |Shrewsbury 2|Wem 10| + 29|Berwick Hill to|Northumb|Newcastle 10|Corbridge 13| + 41|Berwick, St. James pa|Wilts |Amesbury 6|Wilton 6| + 41|Berwick, St. John pa|Wilts |Shaftesbury 5|Hindon 7| + 41|Berwick, St. Leonard p|Wilts |Hindon 1|Amesbury 16| + 31|Berwick-Prior lib|Oxford |Wallingford 5|Watlington 5| + 31|Berwick-Salome pa|Oxford | ... 4| ... 5| + +--+----------------------+--------+------------+--------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------------+---------------------+-----+--------+ + 11|Berry Pomeroy[A] pa|Brixham 7| 197| 1186| + 52|Bersham Drelincourt to|Mold 14| 179| 1240| + 38|Bersted, South pa|Lt. Hampton 9| 67| 2190| + 38|Berwick pa|Hailsham 6| 58| 203| + 33|Berwick, Gt. & L. ham|Albrighton 3| 155| | + 29|Berwick Hill to|Morpeth 10| 284| 105| + 41|Berwick, St. James pa|Salisbury 9| 83| 232| + 41|Berwick, St. John pa|Wilton 12| 97| 425| + 41|Berwick, St. Leonard p|Warminster 10| 93| 51| + 31|Berwick-Prior lib|Dorchester 4| 49| | + 31|Berwick-Salome pa| ... 4| 49| 134| + +--+----------------------+---------------------+-----+--------+ + + +[A] BERRY POMEROY. This place, situated in the hundred of Hayter, +derives its name from the Pomeroys, a very considerable family in these +parts. Ralph de Pomeroy, who came to England with William the Norman, +and for his services was rewarded with fifty-eight lordships in this +county, built a castle here, the magnificent ruins of which, seated on a +rocky eminence, rising over a pellucid brook, now form, in combination +with the other features of the scenery, one of the most delightful views +in Devonshire. The approach to the castle, observes Dr. Matton, in his +Observations on the Western Counties, "is through a thick wood, +extending along the slope of a range of hills that entirely intercept +any prospect to the south: on the opposite side is a steep rocky ridge, +covered with oak, so that the ruins are shut into a beautiful valley. +The great gate, with the walls of the south front, the north wing of the +court, or quadrangle, some apartments on the west side, and a turret or +two, are the principal remains of the building; and these are so finely +overhung with the branches of trees and shrubs which grow close to the +walls, so beautifully mantled with ivy, and so richly incrusted with +moss, that they constitute the most picturesque objects that can be +imagined; and when the surrounding scenery is taken into the account, +the noble mass of wood fronting the gate, the bold ridges rising in the +horizon, and the fertile valley opening to the east, the ruins of Berry +Pomeroy Castle must be considered as almost unparalleled in their +effect." The posterity of Ralph de Pomeroy resided here till the reign +of Edward VI., when Sir Thomas Pomeroy sold the manor to Edward Seymour, +Duke of Somerset, from whom it has descended to the present Duke of +Somerset. Berry Pomeroy Castle, whose venerable ruins we have just +mentioned, appears to have been originally quadrangular, and to have had +but one entrance, which was on the south side, between two hexagonal +towers, through a double gateway; the first of which was machiolated, +and strengthened by angular bastions, and having over it the Pomeroy +arms, still visible. A small room over the gateway was probably the +chapel: it is divided by a wall, supported by pillars and arches. From +the eastern tower is a fine view of the surrounding country. The ruins +in the interior part, or quadrangle, are considerably more modern than +the rest of the building. These appear to have belonged to a +"magnificent structure," commenced, says Prince, in his Worthies of +Devonshire, by the Seymours, at an expense of L20,000, but "never +brought to perfection: for the west side of the mansion was never begun: +what was finished may be thus described. Before the door of the Great +Hall was a noble walk whose length was the breadth of the court, arched +over with curiously carved free-stone, supported in the fore part by +several stately pillars of the same stone, of great dimensions, after +the Corinthian order, standing on pedestals, having cornices and freezes +finely wrought. The apartments within were very splendid, especially the +dining-room; and many other of the rooms were well adorned with +mouldings and fret-work; some of whose marble clavils were so delicately +fine, that they would reflect an object true and lively from a great +distance. Notwithstanding which it is now demolished, and all this glory +lyeth in the dust, buried in its own ruins; there being nothing standing +but a few broken walls, which seem to mourn their own approaching +funerals." The walls are formed of slate, and appear to be rapidly +decaying. The grounds round the castle consist of steep eminences, +covered with oak and other trees. Even in the court, and remains of the +fortress itself, trees of nearly a century's growth are flourishing in +luxuriance, and compose, with the shrubs thickly scattered within the +area, a scene highly beautiful. In the wars between Charles I. and the +Parliament this castle was dismantled. Berry Pomeroy Church, which was +built by one of the Pomeroy family, contains a splendid alabaster +monument to the memory of Lord Edward Seymour, Knt. son to the Duke of +Somerset; Edward Seymour, Bart. and his Lady, the daughter of Sir Arthur +Champernoune. The two first are represented in armour; the knight having +a truncheon in his hand, and lying cross-legged. The lady is in a black +dress, with the figure of a child, in a cradle, at her head, and at her +feet another in a chair: below are nine figures kneeling, with books +open before them. This monument was repaired by the late Duke of +Somerset, the eighth lineal descendant of the Duke of Somerset the +Protector. + +[Sidenote: Castle in ruins.] + +[Sidenote: Former state of the castle.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. |Number of Miles From | + +--+----------------------+---------+-------------+----------+ + 29|Berwick-upon-T[A] m.t.|Northumb |Coldstream 13|Dunbar 30| + 33|Besford to|Salop |Shawbury 3|Weston 3| + 42|Besford pa|Worcester|Pershore 3|Upton 5| + +--+----------------------+---------+-------------+----------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+----------------------+-----------------------+-----+----+ + 29|Berwick-upon-T[A] m.t.|Edinburgh 58| 337|8920| + 33|Besford to|Wem 5| 158| 158| + 42|Besford pa|Worcester 10| 109| 146| + +--+----------------------+-----------------------+-----+----+ + + +[A] BERWICK. The town is situated N. by W. from Newcastle. King Edgar +gave it, with Coldingham, to the church of Durham; but it was afterwards +forfeited by Bishop Flambard. It had a church in the reign of Alexander, +and, in David's time constituted one of the four boroughs where courts +of trade were wont to be held. In 1173, it was reduced to ashes; and in +the following year, Earl Duncan marched to the place, and butchered its +defenceless inhabitants. Henry II. having obtained the castle as a +pledge for King William, strengthened its fortifications. It was +restored, however, in the following reign. King John made dreadful +ravages in the town and neighbourhood. A convention was held here by +Edward I., in 1291, to arbitrate the claims to the crown of Scotland, +which were at length determined in favour of his creature, Baliol. This +prince having shortly afterwards thrown off his allegiance, Berwick +became exposed to the fury of Edward's resentment. In 1296, the English +king fortified it with a wall and a fosse, and in the same year received +the homage of the Scotch nobility here In 1297, the town was taken by +Sir William Wallace; but the castle held out, and after a long assault, +was relieved. Wallace about eight years after this was betrayed, and +half of his body exposed upon Berwick-bridge. The Countess of Buchan, +for crowning Robert Bruce, at Scone, was shut up here in a wooden cage, +six years, and then released. Edward II. and his queen wintered at +Berwick in 1310. He assembled his army here before the battle of +Bannockburn. Peter Spalding betrayed this place into the hands of Robert +Bruce in 1318: many attempts were made to recover it, which was not +effected till the day after the battle of Hallidon-hill, in 1333. Edward +III. was here in 1335, with a great army in 1340, and the year after, at +Easter, held a tournament; but during his absence in France, in November +1353, the Scots surprized and took the town. The castle, under the +renowned Sir John Copeland, held out till Edward, in February following, +arrived with a great army, and forced the Scotch to capitulate. Seven +Scotchmen, in 1377, surprised the castle, and held it eight days against +7,000 archers, and 3,000 cavalry. The deputy-governor, under the Earl of +Northumberland, betrayed it into the enemy's hands in 1384; but the earl +soon after recovered it. Through the solicitation of his uncle the Earl +of Worcester, engaging in the rebellion against Henry IV., in 1406, he +employed this fortress against the king; but a cannon-shot, the first +that was ever fired in England, so alarmed the garrison, that it, +immediately surrendered. According to Walsingham and Speed, this shot +was of a large size, and demolished great part of a tower. In 1811, a +ball of cast iron, weighing ninety-six pounds, answering to this +account, was found in a part of the ruins of the castle. It had +penetrated the wall about three yards, at a place where it was flanked +with a tower. An unsuccessful attempt was made to reduce it in 1422; but +after the battle of Towton, in 1461, it was again in the hands of the +Scots, who strengthened its walls, and held it till 1482, when it +finally came into possession of the English. "From that time," observes +Camden, "the kings of England have continually added works to it, +particularly Queen Elizabeth, who, lately to the terror of the enemy, +and security of the towns-people, contracted the circuit of the walls, +drawing within the old ones a very high wall, well built of strong +stone, surrounded by a deep ditch, a regular rampart, redoubt, +counterscarps, and covered ways, so that the form and strength of the +fortifications are sufficient to discourage all hopes of carrying it by +assault, not to mention the bravery of the garrison, and the stores in +the place, which exceed belief." Between the years 1761 and 1770 the +walls were almost entirely rebuilt in many parts, and finished in 1786. +The governor of Berwick has a salary of L586. 7s. 1d. The barracks +measure 217 by 121; and contain twenty-four rooms for officers, and +seventy-two rooms adapted to hold 567 privates. The church of Berwick, a +peculiar of the dean and chapter of Durham, stands on the north side of +the parade. It was rebuilt between 1642 and 1652, at the cost of L1400. +It has no steeple. It consists of three aisles, and several galleries, +all handsomely pewed. The Worshipful Mercers' Company, in London, +founded a lectureship here. David I., King of Scotland, founded here a +convent for Cistertian Nuns; and Robert III, granted its revenues to +Dryburgh Abbey. The convent of Carmelites originated with Sir John Grey, +in 1270. The Scotch King, in 1239, brought hither a convent of +Dominicans, which Edward III. removed. The Trinitarians had a house +here, as had the Franciscans; and between the sea and the town, in +Maudlin-field, stood the hospital and free chapel of St. Mary Magdalen, +which had an hospital or hermitage belonging to it at Segeden.--Queen +Elizabeth founded a free school here; and a charity-school was rebuilt +in 1725, in which twenty boys and six girls are clothed and educated. +Berwick bridge was swept away by a flood in 1199. It was rebuilt of +wood, of which it consisted, till the time of James I., who commenced +the present elegant structure of stone. It has fifteen arches; its +length being 1164 feet, and its breadth seventeen. It was twenty-four +years, four months, and four days in building, and cost government +L14,960 1s. 6d. The Town Hall was built in 1754. On its ground-floor, on +the east-side, is a piazza, called the Exchange; and opposite it are +cells for criminals, and shops. The second floor consists of two +spacious halls. The outer hall, for holding courts and guilds, measures, +sixty feet by thirty-one. The inner hall forty-seven feet long and +twenty-three feet broad, is occasionally occupied for public +entertainments. The upper story is the common gaol of the town. The +turret, 150 feet high, contains eight musical bells. The first charter +of the corporation was granted by Edward I. The corporation were first +summoned to send members to parliament in the latter end of the reign of +Edward IV. The last charter of this town was granted by James I. The +corporation now consists of a mayor, recorder, town clerk, four +bailiffs, a coroner, four serjeants at mace, and a water-bailiff. The +mayor is also escheator in the borough, clerk of the market, and a +justice of the peace; the other justices of the town being the recorder +and such resident burgesses as have sustained the office of mayor. They +are lords of the manor of Tweedmouth, where they hold a court-leet and +court-baron twice a year. Their annual revenues arising from duties +taken at the quay and gates, are estimated at L7000. Besides the trade +in salmon, great quantities of corn and eggs are exported here for +London. One morning in the month of October, 1814, there were upwards of +10,000 salmon, in Berwick market, caught in the Tweed, some of which +might have been bought at 2s. each. At the same time, the finest +herrings (of which an immense shoal was on the coast) were sold for 2s. +the hundred of six score. On the same day the best salmon was sold in +Newcastle market at 6d. per pound, and some of the inferior kind as low +as 4d. The port has about sixty or seventy vessels. The harbour abounds +with low dangerous rocks. At its mouth a noble pier has recently been +constructed on the site of an old one, built by Queen Elizabeth. Berwick +Castle, once a place of high importance, is now almost levelled with the +ground. About 400 yards north of it, is a pentagonal tower, called the +Bell Tower, having its name from containing a bell, which was rung on +any occasion of alarm. + + _Markets_, Wednesday and Saturday.--_Fairs_, Friday in Trinity Week, + for black cattle, sheep, and horses.--_Mail_ arrives 9.49 morning; + departs 2.1 afternoon.--_Bankers_, Commercial Banking Company; draw + on Jones, Lloyd, and Co.; Batson and Co.: draw on Glynn and + Co.--_Inns_, King's Arms, and Red Lion. + +[Sidenote: The disputed town.] + +[Sidenote: Countess of Buchan shut up in a cage six years.] + +[Sidenote: The first cannon-ball used in England.] + +[Sidenote: The church and convents.] + +[Sidenote: The bridge 24 years in building.] + +[Sidenote: Municipal officers.] + +[Sidenote: Salmon and herring fisheries.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. |Number of Miles From | + +--+------------------+----------+--------------+--------------+ + 4|Besselsleigh[A] pa|Berks |Abingdon 5|Oxford 6| + 43|Bessingby pa|E.R. York |Bridlington 2|Carnaby 1| + 27|Bessingham pa|Norfolk |Cromer 6|Holt 6| + 27|Besthorpe pa|Norfolk |Attleborough 1|Buckenham 4| + 30|Besthorp to|Nottingham|Newark 8|Tuxford 8| + 22|Beswick to|Lancaster |Stockport 7|Bury 9| + 46|Beswick chap|E.R. York |Beverly 7|Gt Driffield 7| + 37|Betchworth pa|Surrey |Reigate 3|Dorking 3| + 21|Bethersden pa|Kent |Ashford 6|Tenterden 7| + +--+------------------+----------+--------------+--------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+------------------+-------------------------+-----+--------+ + 4|Besselsleigh[A] pa|Farringdon 14| 60| 124| + 43|Bessingby pa|Hornsea 12| 238| 83| + 27|Bessingham pa|Aylesham 8| 116| 137| + 27|Besthorpe pa|Wymondham 6| 95| 542| + 30|Besthorp to|Saxilby 9| 132| 322| + 22|Beswick to|Bolton 12| 183| 248| + 46|Beswick chap|Hornsea 13| 190| 205| + 37|Betchworth pa|Leatherhead 7| 26| 1100| + 21|Bethersden pa|Smarden 4| 54| 973| + +--+------------------+-------------------------+-----+--------+ + + +[A] BESSELSLEIGH, is a small village, in the hundred of Hormer. The +manor formerly belonged to the family of Legh, from which it passed, by +a female heir, to that of Besils, or Blesells, which flourished there +for several centuries. "At this Legh," says Leland, "be very fayre +pastures and woodes. The Blesells hathe bene lords of it syns the tyme +of Edwarde the First, or afore, and ther they dyd enhabite. The place is +all of stone, and stondithe at the west end of the paroche churche. The +Blesells cam out of Provence in Fraunce, and were men of activitye in +feates of armes, as it appearith in monuments at Legh, how he faught in +Listes with a strange knighte that chalengyd hym, at the whiche deade +the Kynge and Quene at that tyme of England, were present. The Blesells +were countyd to have pocessyons of 400 marks by the yere." In the year +1516, the estates of the Blesells were carried, by the marriage of an +heiress, to the Fettiplaces, a respectable Berkshire family, one of whom +Besil Fettiplace, Esq., was High Sheriff in the 26th of Queen Elizabeth. +The manor of Besselsleigh was purchased of the Fettiplaces, by William +Lenthall, Esq., Speaker of the Long Parliament, whose descendants now +reside at Burford, in Oxfordshire. + +[Sidenote: The Blessell's family.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+---------------------+----------+-------------+---------------+ + 25|Bethnal Green[A] pa|Middlesex |Popular 2|Stratford 2| + 35|Betley pa|Stafford |Newcastle 7|Nantwich 8| + 12|Bettescombe pa|Dorset |Lyme Regis 6|Axminster 5| + 53|Bettesfield |Flint |Whitchurch 6|Ellesmere 6| + 21|Betteshanger pa|Kent |Sandwich 4|Deal 4| + 33|Betton ham|Salop |Drayton 2|Adderley 4| + 33|Betton ham|Salop |Shrewsbury 3|Ch. Stretton 11| + 33|Bettws pa|Salop |Knighton 7|Bis. Castle 11| + 49|Bettws pa|Carmarthen|Llandillo 7|Camarthen 18| + 52|Bettws-Yn-Rhos[B] pa|Denbigh |Abergeley 4|Aberconway 9| + 54|Bettws pa|Glamorgan |Bridgend 5|Pyle 5| + 55|Bettws to|Merioneth |Bala 2|Corwen 11| + 26|Bettws pa|Monmouth |Newport 3|Careleon 4| + 26|Bettws ham|Monmouth |Abergavenny 5|Lanthony 7| + 56|Bettws pa|Montgomery|Newtown 4|Montgomery 7| + 51|Bettws Bleddrws[C] pa|Cardigan |Lampeter 2|Tregaron 9| + 58|Bettws Clyro pa|Radnor |Hay 4|Kington 8| + 58|Bettws Diserth pa|Radnor |New Radnor 8|Builth 6| + +--+---------------------+----------+-------------+---------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+---------------------+------------------------+-----+---------+ + 25|Bethnal Green[A] pa|Clapton 3| 1| 62018| + 35|Betley pa|Keel 5| 157| 870| + 12|Bettescombe pa|Charmouth 5| 146| 65| + 53|Bettesfield |Oswestry 14| 173| 359| + 21|Betteshanger pa|Wingham 5| 67| 20| + 33|Betton ham|Woore 6| 155| | + 33|Betton ham|Wenlock 11| 159| | + 33|Bettws pa|Ludlow 22| 164| 389| + 49|Bettws pa|Neath 13| 211| 830| + 52|Bettws-Yn-Rhos[B] pa|Denbigh 11| 214| 912| + 54|Bettws pa|Neath 13| 186| 362| + 55|Bettws to|Llandrillo 7| 195| | + 26|Bettws pa|Pontypool 7| 151| 95| + 26|Bettws ham|Crickhowel 8| 151| | + 56|Bettws pa|Llanfair 7| 175| | + 51|Bettws Bleddrws[C] pa|Llandovery 20| 211| 235| + 58|Bettws Clyro pa|Glasbury 7| 160| | + 58|Bettws Diserth pa|Rhayader 15| 173| 141| + +--+---------------------+------------------------+-----+---------+ + + +[A] BETHNAL GREEN. There is a curious legend relating to this place, of +which Henry de Mountfort, son of the ambitious Earl of Liecester, who +was slain with his father at the memorable battle of Evesham, is the +hero. He is supposed to have been discovered among the bodies of the +dying and the dead (by a young lady) in an almost lifeless state, and +deprived of his sight by a wound which he had received during the +engagement. Under the fostering hand of this "faire damosel" he soon +recovered, and afterwards marrying her, she became the mother of the +celebrated "Besse," the heroine of the popular ballad of the beggar's +daughter of Bethnal-green, written in the reign of Elizabeth. Fearing +least his rank and title should be discovered by his enemies, he is said +to have disguised himself as a beggar, and taken up his residence at +Bethnal-green. The beauty of the daughter attracted many suitors, and +she was at length married to a noble knight, who, regardless of her +supposed meanness and poverty, had the courage to make her his wife: her +other lovers having deserted her on account of her low origin. At +Bethnal-green is an old mansion, which the inhabitants, with their usual +love of traditionary lore, assign as the palace of the blind beggar. The +tradition, though with very little grounds for its foundation, is still +preserved on the sign posts of several public houses in the +neighbourhood. On the 19th September, 1826, the parish officers of +Bethnal-green waited on the Secretary of State for the Home Department, +and stated that a lawless gang, of 500 or more, thieves infested that +neighbourhood and committed the most dreadful outrages nightly, upwards +of fifty persons having been robbed and beaten in the course of a week; +the secretary ordered forty men mounted, to patrole the parish, and aid +the local authorities in bringing the offenders to justice. The hospital +called the Trinity House, founded in the year 1695, for twenty-eight +ancient seamen, who have been masters of ships, and their widows, is in +this parish. The funds arising from the ballast-offices, lighthouses, +buoys, beacons, &c. are appropriated by parliament to this corporation. +Each of the inmates receives 16s. a month, 20s. a year for coals, and a +new gown every second year. Many of the streets of this parish are +almost wholly occupied by the operative silk-weavers. + +[Sidenote: The blind beggar of Bethnal-green.] + +[Sidenote: Gang of 500 thieves, in 1826.] + + +[B] BETTWS-YN-RHOS. _Fairs_, February 20, May 8, August 15, and November +20. + + +[C] BETTWS BLEDDRWS. In this neighbourhood there exists a curious custom +relating to marriage, called a bidding, which takes place about a week +previous to the day of ceremony. The banns are published as in England. +A bidder goes from house to house, with a long pole and ribbons flying +at the end of it, and standing in the middle floor in each house, he +repeats a long lesson, with great formality. He mentions the day of the +wedding, the place, the preparations made, &c. The following is a +specimen:--Speech of the Bidder in 1762. "The intention of the bidder is +this; with kindness and amity, with decency and liberality for Einion +Owain, and Llio Elys, he invites you to come with your good will on the +plate; bring current money; a shilling, or two, or three, or four, or +five; with cheese and butter we invite the husband and wife, and +children, and men-servants, from the greatest to the least. Come there +early, you shall have victuals freely, and drink cheap, stools to sit +on, and fish if we can catch them; but if not, hold us excuseable; and +they will attend on you when you call in upon them in return. They set +out from such a place to such a place." The gwahodder, or bidder, has +eight or ten shillings for his trouble. Saturday is always fixed on as +the day of marriage, and Friday is allotted to bring home the furniture +of the woman, consisting generally of an oak chest, a feather bed, +clothes, &c. The man provides a bedstead, a table, a dresser and chairs. +The evening is moreover employed in receiving presents of money, cheese, +and butter, at the man's house, from his friends, and at the woman's +house from her friends. This is called purse and girdle, it is an +ancient British custom. All these presents are set down minutely on +paper. If demanded, they are to be repaid. On Saturday, the friends of +the man come all on horseback, from the number of eighty to a hundred, +and have bread and cheese, and ale at his cost, making at the same time +their presents, or pay pwython, i.e. the presents that have been made at +their weddings. From ten to twenty of the best mounted go to the +intended bride's house to demand her. The woman with her friends are +expecting the summons, but she appears very uncomplying, and much Welsh +poetry is employed by way of argument; one party being within the house, +the other without, abusing each other much. Several persons then deliver +orations on horseback, with their hats off, demanding the daughter from +the father, who were answered by persons appointed for the business. At +length the father appears, admitting and welcoming his guests. They +alight, walk in, take some refreshments, and proceed to church. The girl +mounts behind her father, mother, or friend, upon the swiftest horse +that can be procured. Her friends then pretend to run away with her, +riding like mad folks, in any direction. During this time, the girl has +no pillion, sitting upon the crupper, and holding by the man's coat, at +last the horse is tired, or the bride growing impatient consents to go, +using only some feints to get out of the road, till they arrive at the +church. The ceremony being over, they return to the married couple's +house, eating at free cost, but finding their own liquor. Sunday being +come, the married pair stay at home receiving good will and pwython. On +Monday the drink is exhausted, and the cheese, &c. is sold, frequently +making, with the money presented, a sum of L50 to L60. On the following +Sunday, most of the company attend the young pair to church, and the +ceremony closes. Among the eminent natives of this neighbourhood, was +David ap Gwylim, of Bro Ginin, whose works appeared in a large volume, +in the year 1789. He nourished from about the year 1330 to 1370. In +early life he enjoyed the munificent patronage of Ivor the generous, an +ancestor of the Tredegar family. Under the influence of a passion for +the fair Morvudd he composed 147 poems. Their loves were mutual, but her +friends induced her to accept a wealthy connection, named Rhys Gwrgan, +an officer of the English army, who served at the battle of Cressy, +1346; Dab Gwilym persuaded Morvudd to escape with him, during the +absence of her husband in France; in consequent of which he was +imprisoned, but liberated through the influence of his friends. It is +from the poems of this author, that the modern literary dialect has +chiefly been formed. + + _Fairs_, August 17, and September 23 and 27. + +[Sidenote: Curious marriage customs.] + +[Sidenote: A Welsh poet.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. |Number of Miles From | + +--+-------------------+----------+------------+-------------+ + 50| Bettws Garmon pa |Carnarvon|Carnarvon 5| Beddgelart 7| + +--+-------------------+----------+------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + 50| Bettws Garmon pa |Llanberris 6| 230| 128| + +--+-------------------+-----------------------+-------------+ + + Map| Names of Places. | County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-------------------------+----------+-----------+--------------+ + 55|Bettws Gwerfyl Goch[A] pa|Merioneth |Corwen 5|Bala 11| + 51|Bettws Jevan pa|Cardigan |Newcastle 7|Cardigan 10| + 51|Bettws Lleuce pa|Cardigan |Lampeter 8|Tregaron 6| + 26|Bettws Newydd pa|Monmouth |Usk 4|Abergavenny 7| + 50|Bettws-Y-Coed[B] pa|Caernarvon|Llanrwst 5|Bangor 20| + 30|Bevercoates pa|Nottingham|Tuxford 3|Ollerton 5| + 42|Beverege isl|Worcester |Worcester 2|Droitwich 5| + 46|Beverley[C] m.t. & bo|E.R. York |Hull 9|Scarborough 35| + +--+-------------------------+----------+-----------+--------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-------------------------+----------------------+-----+--------+ + 55|Bettws Gwerfyl Goch[A] pa|Ruthin 12| 199| 273| + 51|Bettws Jevan pa|Llanarth 9| 236| 386| + 51|Bettws Lleuce pa|Aberystwith 16| 217| 381| + 26|Bettws Newydd pa|Monmouth 12| 142| 890| + 50|Bettws-Y-Coed[B] pa|Corwen 23| 217| 348| + 30|Bevercoates pa|E. Retford 7| 140| 51| + 42|Beverege isl|Bewdley 12| 113| | + 46|Beverley[C] m.t. & bo|York 28| 183| 8302| + +--+-------------------------+----------------------+-----+--------+ + + +[A] BETTWS GWERFYL.--_Fairs_, March 16, June 22, August 12, September +16, and Dec. 12. + + +[B] BETTWS-Y-COED. At this village, which contains scarcely a hundred +houses, is the picturesque bridge of Pont-y-Pain, beneath which is a +famous salmon leap; and the road leads into the luxuriant vale of +Llanwrst, in the neighbourhood of which are many seats. The principal of +these is Gwydir House, an ancient mansion of the Wynnes; and now an +occasional residence of Lord Gwydir. Two miles northward is the village +of Trefrew, remarkable chiefly for a saline spring, and the site of a +royal palace, built by Llewelyn. Between two mountains, near this place +are some capital mines, the produce of which are lead, calamine, mixed +with iron, ochre, and pyrites. Bettws-y-Coed lies on the mail-coach road +to Holyhead. From Cernioge Mawr, through this place to Ogwen Lake, a +broad smooth, and well protected road has been made among the rocky +precipices with which the mountainous country abounds. The village +church contains an ancient but very perfect tomb of Gryffyd, grand +nephew of Llewellyn, the last prince of Wales. This interesting monument +is concealed rather awkwardly beneath one of the benches. + + _Fairs_, May 15, and December 3.--_Mail_ arrives 6.30 afternoon; + departs 6.0 morning. + +[Sidenote: Gwydir House.] + + +[C] BEVERLEY. This important market town lies at the foot of the wolds, +it was anciently called Dierwald: the wood of the Deiri; from its +extensive forest. Its present appellation may be a corruption of Beaver +ley; beavers having abounded in the neighbouring river, Hull. Its origin +and early history were totally unknown, till the beginning of the eighth +century, when St. John of Beverley founded a church and monastery, and +died there. This institution was several times destroyed by the Danes; +and there is a pause in its history, till Athelstan granted to it many +priviledges, and built a new college. Many archbishops of York were +benefactors to the monastery, and expended large sums in beautifying the +church. In the early part of the civil war, Charles I. had his quarters +here; and subsequently the town was taken by the parliamentarians. It +appears that Beverley derived its first and greatest importance from its +connexion with the saint. In its present state, the town is extensive +and pleasant. The entrance from Driffield, through an ancient gateway +into a spacious street of elegant houses, is particularly beautiful. Its +market-place also being large and commodious, is a principal ornament. +The church of St. John, which is in excellent preservation, is a superb +edifice, adorned at its west end with two lofty steeples. Within it is +rich in relics of antiquity. Gisbon, describing it, says "the minster +here is a very fair and neat structure: the roof is an arch of stone. In +it are several monuments of the Earls of Northumberland, who have added +a little chapel to the choir; in the windows whereof are the pictures of +several of that family, drawn in the glass. At the upper end of the +choir, on the right side of the altar place, stands the freedstool, made +of one entire stone, and said to have been removed from Scotland; with a +well of water behind it. At the upper end of the body of the church, +next the choir, hangs an ancient tablet, with the pictures of St. John +and king Athelstan, and this distich: + + 'Als free make I thee, + As heart can wish, or egh can see.'" + +Hence, adds our author, the burgesses of Beverley pay no toll or custom +in any port or town of England. The choir is paved with marble of four +colours. Over the altar is a magnificent wooden arch supported by eight +fluted Corinthian pillars. The east window now contains all the painted +glass which could be collected from the others. The screen, between the +choir and the nave, is Gothic, and is justly esteemed a principal +ornament of the edifice. At the lower end of the body of the church +stands a large font of agate stone. In 1664, a vault was discovered of +free-stone, in which was a sheet of lead, containing the relics of St. +John, with an inscription, dated 1197, which imported that, the church +having been destroyed by fire, the ashes had been for some time lost, +but that at length they had been found and there deposited. They were +contained in a small leaden box, and consisted of a few bones, six +beads, some large nails, and three brass pins. The whole was piously +replaced, with an appropriate inscription; and, in 1726, the spot was +adorned with an arch of brick-work.--The church of St. Mary is also a +large and handsome structure; and like the minster, was destroyed in +1528, by the fall of its steeple. It contains some monuments and +inscriptions; but none of note.--Beverley is a corporate town, and is +governed by a mayor, twelve aldermen, and thirteen of the principal +burgesses. The whole number of these last is about 1200; and many +persons are induced to purchase their freedom, by the privileges and +immunities which it confers: among these are extensive rights of pasture +on four commons, near the town; and, as we have observed, liberation +from all tolls throughout the kingdom. Besides its churches, Beverley +has the following public edifices and charitable institutions: the +Hallgarth, a beautiful and spacious hall, in which are held the +sessions, and a register-office for deeds and wills; an elegant market +cross, supported by eight columns; each one entire piece of free-stone; +a common gaol, which was rebuilt thirty-five years since, with due +attention to the suitable accommodation of its inmates; seven +alms-houses with funds, for the erection of two more; a work-house, +which cost L700; and finally, an excellent free-school, to the scholars +of which are appropriated two fellowships at St. John's Cambridge, six +scholarships, and three exhibitions. The trade of Beverley arises +chiefly from the making of malt, oat-meal, and leather: formerly it was +somewhat celebrated for clothing. The vicinity of the town, particularly +towards the west, is rather pleasing; and commands several interesting +prospects. At the distance of three miles, is the moated site of +Lekingfield House, which was demolished, probably, about the end of the +sixteenth century. The barbarous custom of baiting a bull on the day of +the mayor being sworn into office, to the disgrace of the town, still +continues. In the Grammar school were educated Bishops Allcock, Fisher, +and Green; and here was painted as early as 1509, the figure of a man on +horseback, by 'Hugh Goes.' Beverley is remarkable as being the +birth-place of the following eminent persons, viz.: Aluridus, an ancient +historian, who died in 1129. Dr. John Allcock, the founder of Jesus +College, Oxford, who was the most celebrated divine, scholar, and +architect of his time. In 1470, he was made a privy counsellor and +embassador to the King of Castile. He was successively Bishop of +Rochester, Worcester, and Ely, Lord High Chancellor of England, and lord +President of Wales. In his capacity of an architect, few, if any, ever +excelled him, and his correct judgment in this science procured him the +appointment of Comptroller of the Royal Works. He founded the Grammar +School of Kingston upon Hull, and built a chapel, on the south side of +the church, where his parents were buried. The beautiful hall of the +episcopal palace of Ely was erected from his design and at his expense. +He very elegantly enlarged the parish church of Westbury, and built that +sumptuous and beautiful chapel in the Presbytery of Ely Cathedral, where +he was buried, and which remains at the present day, a monument of his +correct judgment; but all these fall into shadow, when compared with +that gorgeous and exquisite mass of enrichment, Henry the Seventh's +Chapel at Westminster; of which, if he was not the immediate designer, +he was at least the able manager and superintendant of its erection--a +monument of pious munificence that will be endeared to every lover of +art, when the living temple of its projector is forgotten. He died at +his castle of Wisbeach, October 1, 1500.--John Fisher, Bishop of +Rochester, was born here in 1459. His father was so eminent a scholar +and divine, that Margaret, Countess of Richmond, mother of Henry VII., +although unknown to him, sent for him, and appointed him her domestic +chaplain; and to his councils posterity are mainly indebted for those +magnificent foundations, St. John's and Christ's College at Cambridge. +This amiable bishop, with all his virtues, could not preserve himself +from the malignity of "the worst of England's monarchs"--Henry VIII.; +and under the pretence of being inimical to the marriage of the king +with Ann Bolyen, he was thrown into prison, and most barbarously +treated; here he continued for nearly a year, and might have been left +to die of ill treatment and old age, had it not been for the +unseasonable mark of respect paid him by Pope Paul III., who created +him, May 15, 1535, Cardinal Priest of St. Vitalis. Henry forbade the hat +to be brought into England, and sent Lord Cromwell to examine the Bishop +about the affair. "My Lord of Rochester," (says Cromwell) "what would +you say if the Pope should send you a Cardinal's hat," upon which the +Bishop replied, "Sir, I know myself to be so far unworthy of such +dignity that I think of nothing less; but if any thing should happen +assure yourself that I should improve that favour to the best advantage +that I could, by assisting the Holy Catholic Church of Christ, and in +that respect I would receive it upon my knees." When the answer was +brought, the king said in a great passion, "yea! is he yet so +lusty--well, let the Pope send him a hat when he will--mother of God! he +shall wear it on his shoulders then, for I will leave him never a head +to set it on." His ruin being now determined, but hardly daring to take +his life upon such trivial grounds, the king sent that most fawning and +contemptible creature, Sir Richard Rich, Solicitor-General, to draw from +him something that might convict him. This wiley wretch gradually drew +from him a private opinion concerning the king's supremacy, telling the +Bishop at the same time, that it was a scruple of the King's conscience +that made him ask for it. Thus entrapped he was not allowed to make a +defence, but was tried by a bill of attainder for high treason, and +executed on the 22d of the same month, and his head placed on London +bridge. Thus perished this good, but ill-fated prelate, in the 77th year +of his age, which dreadful tragedy, as Bishop Burnet observes, "Has left +one of the greatest blots upon this kingdom's proceedings."--The Rev. +John Green was also a native of this place, he was born in 1706, +educated at the Grammar School here, and finished his university +education at St. John's College, Cambridge, where he became master of +arts; he afterwards engaged himself as usher of a school at Litchfield, +where he became acquainted with Dr. Johnson, and Mr. Garrick. In 1730, +he was elected a fellow of St. John's College, and soon afterwards the +Bishop procured for him the vicarage of Hingeston. In 1744, Charles, +Duke of Somerset, and Chancellor of the University, made him his +domestic chaplain. In June 1750, he was elected master of Bennet +College, and in 1756, Dean of Lincoln, then Vice-chancellor of the +University of Cambridge; and at last, through the influence of his +patron, the Duke of Newcastle, preferred to the See of Lincoln. He was +the friend and colleague of Archbishop Secker, who had always a just +esteem for his virtues and abilities. After the death of Lord +Willoughby, of Parham, in 1765, the literary meetings of the Royal +Society used to be held in his lordship's house, as one of its most +accomplished members. In June 1761, he exerted his problematical talents +in two letters "On the Principles and Practice of the Methodists," which +he addressed to the Rev. Mr. Berridge and Mr. Whitfield; and to the +honour of this prelate be it spoken, that when the Bill for the Relief +of the Dissenters, was brought before the House of Lords, in May 1772, +and lost upon a division of 102 to 27, he was the only member of the +clerical brotherhood, who voted in its favour. He died suddenly at Bath, +April 25, 1779. This elegant scholar was one of the writers of the +celebrated "Athenian Letters," published by the Earl of Hardwick, in +1798, 2 vols. 4to. Beverley returns two Members to Parliament. The L10 +householders are about 507. The returning officer is the Mayor. + + _Markets_, Wednesday and Saturday.--_Fairs_, Thursday before Old + Valentine; Holy Thursday; July 5; November 5, for horses and sheep; + and every alternate Wednesday for horned cattle.--_Bankers_, Machell + and Co.; draw on Glyn and Co.; Bower and Co., draw on Curries and + Co.--_Mail_ arrives 10.45 morning; departs 6.0 afternoon.--_Inn_, + Tiger. + +[Sidenote: Its origin and early history.] + +[Sidenote: Ancient superstitions.] + +[Sidenote: Public edifices.] + +[Sidenote: Dr. John Allcock born here.] + +[Sidenote: Bishop Fisher born here.] + +[Sidenote: His head placed on London-bridge.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. |Number of Miles From | + +--+------------------+----------+-------------+------------+ + 46|Beverley Park to|E.R. York |Beverley 2|Hull 7| + 15|Beverstone pa|Gloucester|Tetbury 3|M. Hampton 5| + 39|Bevington ham|Warwick |Alcester 4|Bitford 4| + 39|Bevington Wood ham|Warwick | ... 4| ... 5| + 9|Bewaldeth to|Cumberland|Cockermouth 7|Keswick 9| + +--+------------------+----------+-------------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. | Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+------------------+------------------------+-----+------+ + 46|Beverley Park to|Hornsea 12| 181| | + 15|Beverstone pa|Dursley 8| 102| 174| + 39|Bevington ham|Stratford 12| 106| | + 39|Bevington Wood ham| ... 13| 107| | + 9|Bewaldeth to|Wighton 10| 299| 172| + +--+------------------+------------------------+-----+------+ + + Map| Names of Places.| County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+-----------------+----------+-----------+-----------+ + 9|Bewcastle[A] pa|Cumberland|Brampton 10|Longtown 14| + +--+-----------------+----------+-----------+-----------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places.| Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+-----------------+----------------------+-----+-----+ + 9|Bewcastle[A] pa|Haltwhistle 15| 300| 1336| + +--+-----------------+----------------------+-----------+ + + +[A] BEWCASTLE is supposed to have been a Roman station, and garrisoned +by part of the Legio Secunda Augusta, as a security to the workmen who +were employed in erecting the famous wall, it is situated in the midst +of a wild and unfrequented district, in the Ward of Eskdale. Some +vestiges of ancient buildings still remain, and numerous Roman coins and +inscriptions have been discovered here. The present name of the village +is reported to have been derived from Bueth, who was Lord of the Manor +at the time of the Conquest, and is said to have repaired a Roman castle +here, and called it after his own name. The castle was of a square form, +each front about twenty-nine yards in length: it is now in ruins: the +south side, of which there are most remains, is nearly fourteen yards +high. This structure was destroyed by the parliamentary forces in the +year 1641. It seems to have been a dark gloomy fortress. Gils Bueth, the +son of Bueth, mentioned above, was treacherously killed by Robert De +Vallibus, at a meeting which had been held for friendly purposes. His +possessions then fell to the crown, and were bestowed by Henry II. on +the last Hubert de Vallibus, whose daughter conveyed them to the family +of the Multons by marriage. The estates afterwards passed through +several hands. Bewcastle in the fifth of Charles I. was granted to Sir +Robert Graham, in whose family it remains. Upon one occasion the captain +of Bewcastle is said to have made an incursion into Scotland, in which +he was defeated and forced to fly. Watt Tinlinn, a celebrated retainer +of the Buccleuch family, who held for his border service a small tower +on the frontiers of Liddisdale, pursued him. Watt Tinlinn was, by +profession, a cobbler, but by inclination and practice an archer, and +warrior. He closely followed the fugitive through a dangerous morass: +the captain, however, gained the firm ground; and seeing Tinlinn +dismounted, and floundering in the bog, used these words of insult: +"Sutor Watt, ye cannot sew your boots: the heels _risp_, and the seams +_rive_." "If I cannot sew," retorted Tinlinn, discharging a shaft, which +nailed the captain's thigh to his saddle. "If I cannot sew, I can yerk." +Bewcastle Church is a small edifice, standing on a rising ground near +the castle, a fosse surrounding them both. In the churchyard is a +celebrated obelisk, which has for many years attracted the attention of +the curious. Its height is fourteen feet, two inches: its breadth, on +the bottom of the broadest side, is one foot ten: on the top was +originally a cross, which is supposed to have been abolished in some +ebullition of popular enthusiasm. Various sculptured ornaments appear on +its different sides, executed with much fancy, together with an +illegible Roman inscription, and some human figures. On the wastes of +Bewcastle parish, several thousands of sheep and black cattle are +annually fed. The inhabitants of the parish live chiefly in single and +scattered houses; their religious opinions are mostly conformable to the +doctrines of the church of England; but about thirty years ago a meeting +house was built for a small congregation of Presbyterians. In this +parish, a fine is paid of four years, ancient rent, on change of the +Lord of the Manor by death: or of the tenants either by death or +alienation: besides various customary works and carriages; and for a +heriot, the best beast of which the tenant may die possessed, except the +riding-horse kept for the lord's service. Bewcastle parish has two +schools supported by subscription, the masters of which have a salary of +about ten pounds a year, and the privilege of a whittle-gate. The custom +of whittle-gate was formerly much observed in this and the neighbouring +counties: it consists in the master going to all the abodes of his +scholars in rotation, and being supplied with victuals by the parents or +friends. + +[Sidenote: Anecdote of Watt Tinlinn.] + +[Sidenote: Ancient fine] + + Map| Names of Places.| County. | Number of Miles From | + +--+---------------------+---------+-----------+-------------+ + 42|Bewdley[A] bo. & m.t.|Worcester|Ludlow 21|Kiddermin 3| + 44|Bewerley to|W.R. York|Ripley 8|Boro'bridge 8| + 29|Bewick, New to|Northumb.|Wooler 8|Belford 10| + 29|Bewick, Old to|Northumb | ... 8| ... 9| + 46|Bewholm to|E.R. York|Beverley 12|Hornsea 5| + 38|Bexhill pa|Sussex |Hastings 6|Battle 6| + 12|Bexington, West |Dorset |Bridport 7|Abbotsbury 4| + +--+---------------------+---------+-----------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places.| Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+---------------------+---------------------+-----+-------+ + 42|Bewdley[A] bo. & m.t.|Worcester 15| 129| 3908| + 44|Bewerley to|Tanfield 6| 212| 1310| + 29|Bewick, New to|Alnwick 12| 312| 106| + 29|Bewick, Old to| ... 12| 313| 227| + 46|Bewholm to|Bridlington 13| 195| | + 38|Bexhill pa|Pevensey 7| 63| 1931| + 12|Bexington, West |Dorchester 11| 131| | + +--+---------------------+---------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BEWDLEY is seated on the Severn, in the centre of a populous +manufacturing district; it was, in the reign of Edward I., a manor of +the Beauchamps, and received from Edward IV. its charter of +incorporation. Leland's description of the town, and his opinion of its +origin, possess some beauties, and great exactness.--"The towne selfe of +Beaudley is sett on the syde of a hill; soe comely a man cannot wish to +see a towne better. It riseth from Severne banke by east, upon the hill, +by west; soe that a man standing on the hill _trans pontem_ by east, may +discerne almost every house in the towne, and at the risinge of the +sunne from the east, the whole towne glittereth (being all of a new +building), as it were of gould. By the distance of the parish church (at +Ribbesford), I gather that Beaudley is a very new towne, and that of +ould time there was but some poore hamlett, and that upon the building +of a bridge there upon Severne, and resort of people unto it, and +commodity of the pleasant site, men began to inhabit there; and because +the plott of it seemed fayre to the lookers, it hath a French name, +Beaudley." The figure of the town is that of the letter Y: the foot +extending to the river; one of the horns, towards Ribbesford, the other +into the forest. The bridge, viewed from the loaded wharfs, appears a +handsome modern structure, possessing a lightness of feature, superior +even to that of the bridge at Worcester. The church, situated at the +junction of the three principal streets, is accounted a chapel of ease +to the mother church of Ribbesford; and was rebuilt in its present neat, +yet embellished style, about 1748. Here are also appropriate places of +public worship for the numerous dissenters; several institutions for +carrying on the useful work of education, mostly supported by voluntary +contributions, and a number of alms-houses for the poor and aged. The +town-hall is a handsome modern building of stone, with three arches in +front, six square pilasters, and a pediment, surmounted by the Littelton +arms, and a double row of arcades. The trade of Bewdley is considerable, +and the inhabitants boast, with reason, that their trows and their crews +are the best on the river. Among the sources of this profitable +commerce, are numerous tan-yards; manufactures of a kind of cap, much +worn before the introduction of felt hats, comb-making, and other works +in horn, and a manufacture of flannel; while the town is a sort of mart +for the wholesale grocery trade. The charter of incorporation of Bewdley +has been subject to some extraordinary changes: the original deed, +renewed by James I. was surrendered to Charles II., and replaced by +another from his successor, which last, on the accession of Anne, was +declared illegal, and became the cause of a contention, which produced a +long and expensive law-suit, ended by the confirmation of the original +charter. By virtue of this, the corporation of Bewdley consists of a +bailiff, a recorder, a high steward, and twelve capital burgesses, who +depute one member to parliament, the bailiff being the returning +officer. The borough comprises the parish of Ribbesford and the hamlets +of Ribbenhall, Hoarstone, Blackstone, Netherton, Lower Milton, and +Lickhill; the number of burgesses are 42, and L10. householders about +484. Lord Lyttelton is lord of the manor, high steward, and recorder. A +few years since, Dr. James Johnstone, of Worcester, made an important +discovery in this neighbourhood, of a mineral spring, whose qualities, +after an attentive analysis, he declared to resemble those of the +Harrowgate and Moffat waters. The most celebrated natives of this place +were John Tombes, born in 1612, a subtle disputant, and a learned man, +but a changeling sectary; and Richard Willis, who was the son of a +capper, and became remarkable for his extemporaneous preaching; the +latter was made chaplain to King William, and promoted to the see of +Winchester, in 1714. Near a pleasant hamlet on the side of the river +opposite to Bewdley, is Spring Grove, a large white building surrounded +by a park, late the seat of S. Skey, Esq. to whom the country is +indebted for the introduction of a breed of mules, both handsome and +useful. On a hill, half a mile from Bewdley, and on the eastern bank of +the Severn, is the elegant villa called Winterdyne. This agreeable +retreat, plain in its appearance, yet commodious, is seated on a high +and romantic cliff, embowdered in deep tufted slides, and surrounded by +ornamented walks, which are diversified with Gothic turrets, seats, and +hermitages. Advancing on the river, Blackstone rocks meet the eye; a +bold range of dusky cliffs feathered to the top, and made romantic by +the formation of a cell or hermitage, heretofore the abode of some holy +man, but now a repository for the potatoes, cheese, and farming +implements of a neighbouring agriculturist. + + _Market_, Saturday.--_Fairs_, April 23, July 26, and December 11, for + cattle, horses, cheese, and linen and woollen cloth.--_Bankers_, + Skey, Son, and Co.; draw on Lubbock and Co.; and Pardoe and Co.; draw + on Hoare and Co.--_Mail_ arrives 12.27 afternoon; departs 1.30 + afternoon. + +[Sidenote: Leland's description of the town.] + +[Sidenote: The charter disputed.] + +[Sidenote: Spring Grove.] + + Map| Names of Places.|County.|Number of Miles From| + +--+-----------------+-------+-----------+------------+ + 21|Bexley[A] pa|Kent |Dartford 4|Bromley 8| + 7|Bexton to|Chester|Knutsford 1|Northwich 9| + 27|Bexwell pa|Norfolk|Downham 1|Lynn 12| + 21|Bibrook |Kent |Ashford 1|Kennington 1| + +--+----------------+--------+-----------+------------+ + |Dist.| + Map|Names of Places.|Number of Miles From|Lond.|Population. + +--+-------------+-----------------------+-----+------+ + 21|Bexley[A] pa|Eltham 6| 14| 3206| + 7|Bexton to|Congleton 13| 176| 76| + 27|Bexwell pa|Stoke Ferry 6| 85| 53| + 21|Bibrook |Canterbury 14| 54| | + +--+-------------+-----------------------+-----+------+ + + +[A] BEXLEY was given by King Cenulph to the see of Canterbury. Edward +II. granted a weekly market to be held here, but this has long been +disused. Archbishop Cranmer alienated Bexley to Henry VIII. James I. +granted it to Sir John Spilman, who afterwards sold it to the celebrated +Camden, who made over his right to the University of Oxford, for the +purpose of founding an historical professorship; but covenanted that all +the revenues of the manor should be enjoyed for 99 years from his own +death, by Mr. William Heather, his heirs and successors, subject to the +payment of L140. annually. The University have since granted leases from +time to time, for 21 years, to the Leighs, of Hawley. The church, a +peculiar of the Archbishops of Canterbury, has a shingled tower and +small octangular spire. On the south side of the chancel is an ancient +confessional, consisting of three divisions of pointed arches, and a +recess for holy water; on the north side are seven ancient stalls of oak +with carved heads, and other figures. Here are several curious old +monuments High-street House, which adjoins the churchyard, was rebuilt +in 1701 by the late learned antiquary, John Thorpe, Esq., F.S.A., author +of the "Customale Roffense," who purchased this estate of the Austens, +of Hall Place, in 1750. On his death, his possessions devolved to his +two daughters, by Catharine, daughter of Dr. Lawrence Holker, of +Gravesend: High-street House, was allotted to the youngest, married to +Cuthbert Potts, Esq. This gentleman became owner also, in right of his +wife, of a contiguous villa, called Bourne Place, which was built about +fifty years ago, by Lawrence Holker, Esq. son of Dr. Holker. Hall Place, +formerly the seat of a family surnamed At-Hall, is an ancient and +spacious edifice, now occupied as a boarding-school. On August 12, 1822, +Robert, Marquis of Londonderry, sinking under the weight of a very heavy +session of Parliament, died by his own hand. Symptoms of mental +aberration had been observed in his Lordship by the Duke of Wellington, +who had required Dr. Blankhead to visit him; his Lordship severed the +carotid artery with a knife, and died almost instantly. He was an able +diplomatic character, and an acute and efficient Parliamentary +leader--he was, in the 53d year of his age: on the 20th of the same +month his remains were deposited in Westminster Abbey. The Right +Honourable Nicholas Vansittart was appointed Chancellor of the Duchy of +Lancaster, and raised to the Peerage by the title of Baron Bexley, of +Bexley, in Kent, on the 31st January, 1833. + +[Sidenote: One of Camden's manors.] + +[Sidenote: Death of Lord Londonderry.] + + Map| Names of Places. | County. |Number of Miles From | + +--+---------------------+----------+------------+-------------+ + 15|Bibury[A] pa|Gloucester|Fairford 5|Cirencester 7| + 31|Bicester[B] m.t.&pa|Oxford |Aylesbury 16|Oxford 13| + 34|Bickenhall pa|Somerset |Taunton 6|Ilminster 7| + 39|Bickenhill, Church pa|Warwick |Coleshill 5|Birmingham 10| + 39|Bickenhill, Hill ham|Warwick | 4|Solihull 4| + +--+---------------------+----------+------------+-------------+ + |Dist.| + Map| Names of Places. |Number of Miles From |Lond.|Population. + +--+---------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + 15|Bibury[A] pa|Barford 10| 82| 950| + 31|Bicester[B] m.t.&pa|Buckingham 11| 55| 2868| + 34|Bickenhall pa|Langford 11| 140| 270| + 39|Bickenhill, Church pa|Solihull 4| 101| 725| + 39|Bickenhill, Hill ham|Meriden 3| 100| | + +--+---------------------+-----------------------+-----+-------+ + + +[A] BIBURY. In the eighth century this little village belonged to the +See of Worcester: in the twelfth century it was given, with certain +restrictions, to the Abbey of Oseney, in Oxfordshire; and, in 1547, it +was finally alienated from the See of Worcester, to the Earl of Warwick, +from whom the manor has passed through various families to Estcourt +Cresswell, Esq. Bibury is a peculiar, possessing jurisdiction over +Aldsworth, Barnsley, and Winson; the Lord of the Manor, however, claims +a prescriptive right of appointing his own official and chancellor, who +hath the recording of wills, and the granting of licenses within the +peculiar: nor doth the Lord of the Manor allow to the Bishop the right +of visitation. The Church is supposed to have been rebuilt by the monks +of Oseney. The architecture of the north and south doors is in the early +Norman style. On the north wall was a colossal painting, in fresco, of +St. Christopher, the sight of whose image, according to the monkish +legends, had sufficient efficacy to preserve the spectator from sudden +or violent death: the painting is now obliterated. Several monuments and +inscriptions to the memory of the Coxwalls, and other families, are in +the edifice. The mansion was built in the reign of James II., by Sir +Thomas Sackville, of the family of the Earls of Dorset. From its +situation on an easy eminence, it commands a fine view of the river +Colne, backed by an amphitheatre of low wood, of the most variegated +foliage, clothing the acclivities of the hills, and rendered more +beautiful from the contrast afforded by the barren downs which appear in +the distance. + +[Sidenote: Monkish legends.] + + +[B] BICESTER lies in a flat situation near the eastern border of the +county. The parish is divided into two districts, termed King's End and +Market End. The church is a large and respectable edifice. There is no +peculiar manufacture: but the town derives great benefit from its market +and cattle fairs. + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Curiousities of Great Britain: England +and Wales Delineated Vol. 1, by Thomas Dugdale + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CURIOUSITIES OF GREAT *** + +***** This file should be named 37519.txt or 37519.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/7/5/1/37519/ + +Produced by Robert Cicconetti, Graeme Mackreth and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net +(This file was produced from images generously made +available by The Internet Archive/Canadian Libraries) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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