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diff --git a/37502-h/37502-h.htm b/37502-h/37502-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..57ea3bf --- /dev/null +++ b/37502-h/37502-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,6643 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Climbing In The British Isles, by W. P. HASKETT SMITH and H. C. HART + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; +} + +p { + margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; +} + +table { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; +} + +.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + visibility: hidden; + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; +} /* page numbers */ + +.blockquote { + margin-left: 5%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + +.center {text-align: center;} + +.right {text-align: right;} + +.big {font-size: 150%;} + +.small {font-size:80%;} + +.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + +.caption {font-weight: bold;} + +/* Images */ +.figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; +} + +/* Footnotes */ +.footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} + +.footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + +.footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + +.fnanchor { + vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: + none; +} + +/* Poetry */ +.poem { + margin-left:10%; + margin-right:10%; + text-align: left; +} + +.poem br {display: none;} + +.poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + +.poem span.i0 { + display: block; + margin-left: 0em; + padding-left: 3em; + text-indent: -3em; +} + +/* Index */ +.IX {list-style-type: none;} + +/* Transcriber's notes */ +.transnote {background-color: #E6E6FA; + color: black; + font-size:smaller; + padding:0.5em; + margin-bottom:5em; + font-family:sans-serif, serif; } + .poem span.i6 {display: block; margin-left: 6em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + .poem span.i8 {display: block; margin-left: 8em; padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em;} + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Climbing in The British Isles, Vol. II, by +W. P. Haskett Smith and H. C. Hart + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Climbing in The British Isles, Vol. II + Wales and Ireland + +Author: W. P. Haskett Smith + H. C. Hart + +Illustrator: Ellis Carr + +Release Date: September 21, 2011 [EBook #37502] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CLIMBING IN BRITISH ISLES, VOL II *** + + + + +Produced by Chris Curnow, Anna Hall and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[Pg i]</a></span></p> + + + +<h1>CLIMBING IN THE BRITISH ISLES</h1> +<h2><i>WALES <small>AND</small> IRELAND</i></h2> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[Pg ii]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 95%;" /> + +<p class="big center">CLIMBING +IN THE BRITISH ISLES</p> + +<p class="center"><i>3 vols. 16mo. Sold separately.</i></p> + + +<blockquote><p>I.—ENGLAND. By <span class="smcap">W. P. Haskett Smith</span>, +M.A., Member of the Alpine Club. With 23 Illustrations +by Ellis Carr, Member of the Alpine Club, +and 5 Plans. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + + +<p>II.—WALES AND IRELAND. By <span class="smcap">W. P. +Haskett Smith</span>, M.A., and <span class="smcap">H. C. Hart</span>, Members of +the Alpine Club. With 31 Illustrations by <span class="smcap">Ellis +Carr</span> and others, and 9 Plans. 3<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p> + + +<p>III.—SCOTLAND.</p></blockquote> + +<p class="right"> +[<i>In preparation.</i>] +</p> + +<p>London and New York: LONGMANS, GREEN, & CO.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[Pg iii]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 95%;" /> + + +<p class="center big">CLIMBING<br /> +<span class="small">IN<br /></span> +THE BRITISH ISLES</p> + +<p class="center"><i>II—WALES <small>AND</small> IRELAND</i></p> + +<p class="center"><b>WALES</b></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">By</span> W. P. HASKETT SMITH, M.A.<br /> +<span class="small">Member of the Alpine Club</span></p> + +<p class="center"><b>IRELAND</b></p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">By</span> H. C. HART<br /> +<span class="small">Member of the Alpine Club; Fellow of the Linnean Society +Member of the Royal Irish Academy, etc.</span></p> + +<p class="center">WITH THIRTY-ONE ILLUSTRATIONS BY<br /> +ELLIS CARR<br /> +<span class="small">Member of the Alpine Club +<i>and others</i><br /> +AND NINE PLANS</span></p> + + +<p class="center">LONDON<br /> +LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.<br /> +AND NEW YORK<br /> +1895</p> + +<p class="center"><i>All rights reserved</i></p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</a></span></p><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[Pg iv]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h3>PREFACE</h3> + + +<p>The present volume is intended to deal with all parts of the +British Isles except England, which was the subject of Vol. I., +and Scotland, to which Vol. III. will be devoted. Nothing +is here said about the <i>Isle of Man</i> or the Channel Islands, +because it would, no doubt, be considered absurd to advise +anyone to visit those islands whose main object was the +acquisition of mountaineering skill. Pretty as the former +island is, its hills are nothing more than hills, except where +they are also railways or tea gardens; and even on its cliffs, +which are especially fine at the southern end, comparatively +little climbing will be found.</p> + +<p>In the <i>Channel Islands</i>, on the other hand, the granite +cliffs, though very low, being usually only 100-200 ft. high, +abound in instructive scrambles. Many such will be found +in Guernsey, Jersey, and especially in Sark, but the granite +is not everywhere of equally good quality.</p> + +<p>The <i>Scilly Isles</i>, again, are by no means to be despised +by climbers, especially by such of them as can enjoy +knocking about in a small boat, which is almost the only +means of getting from climb to climb. The granite forms +are somewhat wilder and more fantastic than those in the +Channel Islands. Peninnis Head is only one of many<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</a></span> +capital scrambling grounds. An article by Dr. Treves<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 1."> [1] </a> gives +a very good idea of the kind of thing which may be expected. +If anyone should think of proceeding, under the guidance of +this volume, to regions with which he is so far unacquainted, +he will naturally ask how the climbing here described compares +with the climbing in other parts of Britain or of +Europe. How does Wales, for instance, stand with regard +to Cumberland or the Alps? On this point some good remarks +will be found in the <i>Penny Magazine</i>, vii., p. 161 +(1838), where the writer assigns to the more northern hills +a slight superiority over Wales. An impression prevails +among those who know both that the weather of N. Wales +is, if possible, more changeable than that of the Lakes. +Climbers will notice this chiefly in winter, when the snow on the +Welsh mountains less frequently settles into sound condition. +Perhaps sudden changes of temperature are partly to blame +for the greater frequency in Wales of deaths from exposure. +Winter climbing is very enjoyable, but proper precautions +must be taken against the cold. A writer on Wales some +300 years ago observes that 'the cold Aire of these Mountainous +Regions by an Antiperistasis keeps in and strengthens +the internall heat;' but a good woollen sweater, a warm cap +to turn down over the ears and neck, and three pairs of gloves, +two pairs on and one pair dry in the pocket, will be found +quite as effectual. Dangers, however, cease not with the +setting sun, and many who have defied frost-bite during the +day fall an easy prey to rheumatism in bed at night. A +groundless terror of the Welsh language keeps many away +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span>from Wales. The names are certainly of formidable appearance, +and Barham's lines are hardly an exaggeration.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">For the vowels made use of in Welsh are so few<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That the A and the E and the I, O, and U<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Have really but little or nothing to do.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And the duty, of course, falls the heavier by far<br /></span> +<span class="i0">On the L and the H, and the N and the R.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The first syllable PEN is pronounceable; then<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Come two LL and two HH, two FF, and an N.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>But appalling words like 'Slwch Twmp' or 'Cwmtrwsgl' +lose half their venom when it is explained that W is only a +way of writing OO. In spite of its apparent complication +the language is so simple and systematic that anyone can +learn enough in a quarter of an hour to enable him to pronounce +with ease and moderate accuracy any place-name +with which he is likely to meet. Irish is less regular, but +wonderfully rich in expressions for slightly varying physical +features, while the Manx names are more interesting than +the hills by which they are borne.</p> + +<p>In comparison with the Alps what was said in Vol. I. of +Cumberland applies equally well to Wales, and nearly as +well to Kerry or Donegal. The most striking peculiarity of +Irish mountains is, next to the size of the bogs, the large +amount of car-driving which has to be done before and after +the day's work. But this is an intrusion on the province of +another. Old Thomas Fuller, on sitting down to write a +detailed account of Wales, which he had never seen, genially +remarked that 'it matters not how meanly skilled a writer is +so long as he hath knowing and communicative friends.' +That precisely describes the Editor's position, especially with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</a></span> +regard to Ireland, to the treatment of which no other man +could have brought knowledge at once so wide and so +accurate as Mr. Hart. Unfortunately he, like his own +'carrabuncle,' was somewhat elusive. After months of +mysterious silence he would glide into sight, great with +solid mountaineering matter, gleaming with pearls of botany +and gems of geologic lore; but, alas! in another moment the +waters of bronchitis, or influenza, or inertia would close over +the mysterious monster's back, and he would glide away into +unknown depths where the harpoon of the penny post was +harmless and telegrams tickled him in vain. Now the +carrabuncle is caught at last, and readers will be well repaid +for a few months' delay. They will be astonished that one +pair of eyes could take in so much, and that one pair of +legs could cover so much ground.</p> + +<p>Among many other 'knowing and communicative friends' +the Editor would especially dwell on his indebtedness to Mr. +F. H. Bowring and to Mr. O. G. Jones. The latter has +contributed the whole of the section dealing with the Arans +and Cader Idris, and his minute knowledge of that region +will be evident from the fact that the quantity which our +space has allowed us to print represents less than half of the +matter originally supplied by him.</p> + +<p>For most of the sketches we are again indebted to Mr. +Ellis Carr, for a striking view of Tryfaen to Mr. Colin Phillips, +and for the remainder (taken under most cruel conditions +of weather) to Mr. Harold Hughes of Bangor.</p> + +<p class="right">W. P. H. S.</p> + +<p><i>August 1895.</i></p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CLIMBING<br /> +<span class="small">IN<br /></span> +THE BRITISH ISLES</h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h3>WALES</h3> + +<h4>WHERE TO STAY</h4> + + +<p><b>Aber.</b>—This station on the Chester and Holyhead Railway +is in no sense a centre for mountaineers, though a good +deal of work <i>may</i> be done from it. We ourselves 'in our hot +youth, when George the Third was King,' and a dozen miles +extra tramping at the end of a day was a mere trifle, managed +to do many of the mountains of North Wales from it.</p> + +<p>Its only attraction is a pretty valley, at the head of which +are some not very striking waterfalls. The surrounding +rocks have, however, been the scene of a surprising number +of accidents. Most of these have been caused by slipping on +the path which crosses the steep slope of the eastern bank +and leads to the head of the main fall. Such was the fatal +accident on April 13, 1873, to Mr. F. T. Payne, a barrister. +His sight was very defective, and this fact goes far towards +accounting for the accident.<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 2."> [2] </a></p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span></p> +<p>In 1876 a very similar case occurred. A young man +called Empson, who was staying at Llanfairfechan, was +killed in descending, apparently at the very same spot.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 3."> [3] </a></p> + +<p>In April 1885 Mr. Maitland Wills, described as an +expert mountaineer, while walking with two friends from +Capel Curig to Aber, fell near the same spot, and was +instantly killed.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 4."> [4] </a></p> + +<p>In August of the same year Mr. Paget, the Hammersmith +Police Magistrate, fell and was severely hurt.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 5."> [5] </a> And +these by no means exhaust the list of casualties, which is, +perhaps, only second in length to that of Snowdon itself. It +may be mentioned that there is a climb or two on the west +and steeper side of the falls.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Bala</b>, reached from London in about 7 hours by the +Great Western line, is a very pleasant place to stop at on +entering Wales, being situated at the foot of the finest +natural sheet of water in the Principality, and having railway +facilities in three directions. By the aid of the rail +Cader Idris, the Arans, and the Rhinogs can be easily got +at. For the first mountains Dolgelly, for the second Drwsynant +and Llanuwchllyn, for the third Maentwrog would be +the best stations. This is also the best place for Arenig +Fawr, which can be done on foot all the way, or better by +taking the train to Arenig station and returning by rail +from Llanuwchllyn after crossing the hill. Lord Lyttelton +made Bala famous last century. What he said of it will +sufficiently appear from some lines (long since erased by the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span>indignant ladies of Bala) which were once to be seen in a +visitors' book here:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Lord Lyttelton of old gave out<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To all the world that Bala trout<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Have all the sweetness that pervades<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The laughing lips of Bala's maids.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Which did his Lordship mean to flout?<br /></span> +<span class="i0">For fact it is that Bala trout<br /></span> +<span class="i0">(Ask any fisherman you meet)<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Are bad to catch, but worse to eat.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">O Maid of Bala, ere we part,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">'Tis mine to bind thy wounded heart;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And in thy favour testify—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Though seldom sweet, thou'rt never shy!<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>There is, however, one objection to this epigram, for the poet +talks of trout and the peer of Gwyniad; let us, therefore, hope +that in regard to the fair as well as the fish the poet's harsh +judgment was equally unsound.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Barmouth</b>, a capital place from which to visit the +Rhinog range and Cader Idris; and the Cambrian Railway +extends the range of operations in three directions, so that +even Snowdon is within the possibilities of a single day's +excursion. There is excellent climbing practice to be had, +not only just outside the town, but actually within it.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Beddgelert</b> (i.e. 'Gelert's Grave') is one of the gates of +Snowdonia, and it is the gate by which the judicious will +enter. It is, moreover, perhaps the prettiest mountain resort +in Wales. Penygwrhyd is more central for climbers pure—and +simple—but has no pretensions to beauty of situation; +Llanberis has its railway facilities, its quarries, and its<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> +trippers; Bettws y Coed is delicious, but it is right away +from the mountains. For combination of the beauties of +mountain, water, and wooded plain Dolgelly is the only +rival of Beddgelert. Snowdon on the north, Moel Hebog on +the west, and Cynicht and Moelwyn on the east are enough +to make the fortune of any place as a mountaineer's abode, +even if there were no Pass of Aberglaslyn close by.</p> + +<p>The nearest station is Rhyd-ddu, on the Snowdon Ranger +line, nearly 4 miles off, and it is uphill nearly all the way. +To Portmadoc, on the other hand, the distance is greater, +6 or 7 miles, but the road is fairly level, and nearly every +step of it is beautiful, both in winter and in summer. +Indeed, there was a time when winter in this romantic +village was more enjoyable than summer, for in warm +weather the eye was much obstructed by the hand which +held the nose; but that was many years ago. The ascent +of Snowdon from this side used to be the most frequented, +but in the race for popularity it has long been distanced by +Llanberis. It is a good path, and easily found. The start +is made along the Carnarvon road for some three miles to +the Pitt's Head; then up the hill to the right to Llechog, +and across the once dreaded Bwlch y Maen. A more direct +and very fine route leads straight up and over the ridge of +Yr Aran, joining the regular path just short of Bwlch-y-Maen. +By going up the Capel Curig some 3½ miles, and +taking the turn to the left more than half a mile beyond +Llyn y Ddinas, Sir Edward Watkin's path up Cwmyllan may +be utilised; but at the cost of 3½ miles' extra walking along +the same road the far finer ascent by Cwm Dyli may be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> +made. This is the same as that from Penygwrhyd, but with +the advantage of including the lowest portion and waterfalls +of Cwm Dyli, which are extremely fine. The classical climbs +of Snowdonia are within reach for good walkers, but others +will find abundance of opportunities for practice within a +mile or two, and for the Garnedd Goch range (which has in +it some choice bits) there is no better base. The road to Portmadoc +on the south and to Penygwrhyd on the north are not +only among the most beautiful in the kingdom, but present +the most alluring of problems to the rock climber within a +stone's throw. There is a corner of the road about 6 miles from +Beddgelert where Crib Goch shows over a foot-hill of Lliwedd, +and a rocky ridge runs down from the east almost on to the +road. This ridge, though broken, bears some very choice +bits, including a certain wide, short chimney facing south.</p> + +<p>A separate guide-book to this place (by J. H. Bransby) +appeared in 1840, and there have been several since, among +the best being one published at the modest price of one +penny by Abel Heywood.</p> + +<p>The place plays a great part in Charles Kingsley's <i>Two +Years Ago</i>, and it was at the 'Goat' Inn here that George +Borrow was so furious at the want of deference with which +his utterances were received by the company.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Benglog</b>, at the foot of Llyn Ogwen and the head of +Nant Ffrancon, is only second to Penygwrhyd as a +climbing centre, but, unfortunately, the accommodation is +so very scanty—Ogwen Cottage, the only house, having no +more than two bedrooms—that the place is little used.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> +For Tryfaen, the Glyders, the Carnedds, Twll Du, and the +Elider range it is preferable to any other place, and +beautiful problems are to be found by the climber literally +within a stone's throw of the door. It is about 5 miles +from Bethesda station on the north and the same distance +from Capel Curig on the east, all three places being on the +great Holyhead Road. Penygwrhyd is 2 hours away, +whether by road (9 miles) or over the hill. In the latter +case the shortest route is by the col which separates Tryfaen +and Glyder Fach, and then over the shoulder east of the +latter mountain. To Llanberis the way lies by Twll Du and +Cwm Patric, and though much longer than the last could +probably be done in nearly as short a time.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Bethesda</b> is 5 miles from Benglog, and that much +further from all the best climbing. See, however, p. 18.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Capel Curig</b> (600 ft. above sea level) is 5½ miles from +Bettws y Coed railway station, 4 miles from Penygwrhyd, +and 5 from Benglog, is a very good centre for strong +walkers. Most of the best climbs are within reach, but none +very near. For Snowdon Penygwrhyd is much nearer; +Benglog is better for the Glyders and the Carnedds; so that, +while being pretty good for nearly all, Capel Curig is not the +best starting-place for any. It has no exclusive rights, +except over Moel Siabod on the south and the wild unfrequented +district in the opposite direction, which lies at the +back of Carnedd Llewelyn.</p> + +<p>Hutton, who visited it at the beginning of the century, +calls it 'an excellent inn in a desert.'</p> + +<p>The Alpine Club had a meeting here in 1879.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Dinas Mawddwy</b>, reached by rail from Machynlleth, +is a pleasant, secluded spot amid mountainous surroundings, +but not conveniently situated for climbing anything but +Aran Mawddwy. All the advantages of the place may be +equally well enjoyed from Machynlleth. Old Pennant +records how in his rash youth he used to toboggan down +the peat paths of Craig y Dinas, 'which,' says he, 'I now +survey with horror.' A Welsh bard, whose poems must have +been neglected in the place, declares that it was notable for +three things—blue earth, constant rain, and hateful people.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Dolgelly</b>, which ends in <i>-eu</i> in many old books, in +<i>-ey</i> on the one side and in <i>-y</i> on the other of the modern +railway station, and is commonly pronounced by the +residents as if it ended in <i>-a</i>, is said to mean 'hazel dale,' +a name which the place can hardly be said to live up to. +There is, however, no doubt that it is one of the prettiest +places in Wales and one of the pleasantest to stop at. In +the first place the communications are very good, for by +the Great Western Railway there is a capital service to +Shrewsbury and London, while on the seaward side the +Cambrian Railway puts Barmouth and Portmadoc on the +one side, and Machynlleth and Aberystwith on the other, +within easy reach. There is good scenery on all sides of it, +while for Cader Idris, the Aran Mountains, and the Rhinog +range there is no better centre. Many people have an +objection to going up and down a mountain by the same +route, and have an equal horror of the long grind round +the foot of it, which is the result of going down a different<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> +side of the mountain if you want to return to your starting-point. +At Dolgelly you enjoy the advantage of being able to +take a train to the far side of your mountain, so as to come +back over the top and straight on down to your sleeping-place. +For instance, a very fine way of doing Aran Benllyn +and Aran Mawddwy is to go by the Great Western to +Llanuwchllyn and then come back along the ridge of both +mountains. In the same way one can begin a day on the +Rhinogs by rail, walking from Llanbedr or Harlech to +Cwm Bychan, and so over the Rhinogs and Llethr, and +down to Dolgelly again. Even Cader Idris is rendered +more enjoyable if the train be taken to Towyn and Abergynolwyn, +whence the walk by Talyllyn and up to the +summit by way of Llyn y Cae is in turn pretty and impressive. +As a rule it is far better to go out by train and come +back on foot than to reverse the process, and for two reasons—first, +by taking the train at once you make sure of your +ride, and have the remainder of the day freed from +anxiety and the fear of just missing the last train a dozen +miles from home, with less than an hour of daylight remaining; +secondly, if you don't miss the train it is because you +have come along at racing pace. You are in consequence +very hot, and have to stand about in a draughty station +till the train (which is twenty minutes late) arrives and +then follows half an hour's journey with wet feet, for wet +feet and walking on Welsh hills are very close friends +indeed.</p> + +<p>There used to be a saying about Dolgelly that the town +walls there are six miles high. Of course this refers mainly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> +to the long mural precipice which forms the north point of +Cader Idris. Abundant climbing is to be found on this +'wall,' which, with a small part of Aran Mawddwy and a few +short, steep bits along the course of the river Mawddach, +constitutes the best rock-work in the immediate vicinity of +Dolgelly.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Ffestiniog</b>, a very pleasant place to stay at, with good +communications by rail with Bala, Bettws y Coed, and Portmadoc. +There are climbs near—e.g. on the Manods and on +Moelwyn—but on a small scale, the good ones being mostly +destroyed by the colossal slate quarries.</p> + +<p><i>Blaenau Ffestiniog</i> is the more central and less beautiful; +the old village (3 miles away) is far pleasanter. The +Cynfael Falls, about a mile off, include the well-known +'Hugh Lloyd's Pulpit,' and are very pretty, but have been +almost as fatal as those at Aber. Readers will probably +remember the death of Miss Marzials at this spot.<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 6."> [6] </a></p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Llanberis</b> (i.e. 'Church of Peris'), being a station on a +railway which has a good service from England, is the most +accessible of all the mountain resorts in Wales. As a consequence +of these facilities the place is often intolerably +overrun, especially during the late summer and autumn. +The true lover of the mountains flees the spot, for the day-tripper +is a burden and desire fails. Whether the railway +will have the power to make things worse in this respect +we cannot yet decide, but it seems unlikely. It is only of +late years that Llanberis has possessed the most popular +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span>road up Snowdon. The opening of the road over the pass +in 1818 did a great deal, and the visit of H.M. the Queen +in 1832 did still more to make the place popular, and the +pony path up Snowdon and the railway settled the matter. +The other mountains which may readily be ascended from +here are those in the Elider and Glyder ranges, while climbing +is nearly confined to the rocks on both sides of the pass, +which includes some work of great excellence.</p> + +<p>As early as 1845 a separate guide-book for this place was +published by J. H. Bransby. Now there are several.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Machynlleth</b> (pronounced roughly like 'Mahuntly,' +and by the rustics very like 'Monkley') lies midway between +Plynlimon and Cader Idris, and within reach of both, yet can +hardly claim to be a centre for mountaineers. Of submontane +walks and scenery it commands a surprising variety, +having railway facilities in half a dozen directions. This +makes it a capital place for a long stay, varied by an occasional +night or two at places like Rhayader, Dolgelly, +Barmouth, or Beddgelert. The best way of doing Aran +Mawddwy is by way of Dinas Mawddwy, and the ascent of +Cader Idris from Corris railway station, returning by way of +Abergynolwyn, makes a most enjoyable day.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Nantlle</b>, once a very pretty place, is now little more +than an intricate system of slate quarries. A low pass +(Drws y Coed) separates it from Snowdon, of which Wilson +took a celebrated picture from this side. There are some +nice little climbs on both sides of the pass and on Garnedd +Goch, which runs away to the southward of it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span></p> + +<p>Nantlle has a station, but Penygroes, the junction, is so +near as to make it a more convenient stopping-place. Anyone +staying at Criccieth can make a good day by taking the +train to Nantlle, and returning along Garnedd Goch or +over Moel Hebog. Snowdon too is within easy reach.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Penygwrhyd.</b>—In Beddgelert Church is a monument +'to the memory of Harry Owen, for forty-four years landlord +of the inn at Penygwrhyd and guide to Snowdon: born +April 2, 1822; died May 5, 1891.'</p> + +<p>Harry Owen it was who did for Penygwrhyd what +Will Ritson did for Wastdale Head and Seiler for Zermatt. +Intellectually, perhaps, he was not the equal of either of the +other two, but there was a straightforward cordiality about +him which made all lovers of the mountains feel at once that +in his house they had a home to which they could return +again and again with ever renewed pleasure.</p> + +<p>The house stands at the foot of the east side of the +Llanberis Pass, at the junction of the roads from Capel +Curig (4 miles), Beddgelert (8 miles), and Llanberis (6 +miles), and at the central point of three mountain groups—Snowdon +(the finest and boldest side), the Glyders, and +Moel Siabod. The last is of small account, but the other +two groups contain some—one may almost say most—of the +best climbing and finest scenery in Wales. Most people +come to the inn by way of Bettws y Coed and many from +Llanberis; but by far the finest approach is that from +Beddgelert, and by this way the first approach at any rate +ought always to be made. Ascents and climbs innumerable<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> +may be made from here, and many valuable notes on +climbs may be found here in a certain volume secured from +the profane mob by lock and key.</p> + +<p>In the same volume also several sets of verses occur +much above the ordinary tourist level, among them being +a very smart study of the climbing class in the style of +Walt Whitman, and a few telling alphabetic distichs of +which <i>habitués</i> will recognise the force.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">K—for the Kitchen, where garments are dried;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">L—for the Language we use when they're fried;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">O—for the Owens, whom long may we see;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">P—for the Pudding we call P.Y.G.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">S is for Snowdon, that's seen from afar;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">T—for the Tarts on the shelf in the bar.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>The visitors' book proper also contains entries of some +interest, including some lines (given at length in the +<i>Gossiping Guide</i>) written by Charles Kingsley, Tom +Taylor, and Tom Hughes, chiefly remarkable for their +breezy good temper. The lines are printed, together with +a mass of very poor stuff taken from the same source, in a +little book called <i>Offerings at the Foot of Snowdon</i>.<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 7."> [7] </a> +The inn and the Owens play an important part in Kingsley's +novel <i>Two Years Ago</i>. Forty or fifty years ago there was +a constant visitor at this inn who might have claimed the invention +of the place as a climbing centre. He corresponded +in profession, and also in age, to the Rev. James Jackson, the +Cumbrian 'Patriarch.' He had a mania for ridge-walking, +or, as he termed it, 'following the sky line.' His name I +could never learn.</p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p> +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Rhayader</b> (<i>The Waterfall</i>, i.e. of the river Wye, pronounced +here 'Rhay-' and not 'Rhy-,' as in North Wales) +is a very convenient centre for much scenery which is of +great interest to the geologically-minded mountaineer, though +the hills are of no great height. The Cambrian Railway has +a station here, and makes an expedition to the Brecon Beacons +or to the very interesting Black Mountains a very simple +matter, while on the way a good deal may be seen of two of +the most beautiful rivers in Britain, the Wye and the Usk. +Aberedw Rocks and Cwm Elan are quite near, and so is Nant +Guillt, with its memories of Shelley, beloved of all who love +the mountains, though perhaps few would have cared to be +on the same rope with that somewhat erratic genius. +Where the Wye enters the Vale of Rhayader there are some +remarkably fine rocks (chiefly in the 'Lower Llandovery' +formation). Mackintosh calls it 'a deep basin surrounded +by very precipitous slopes, which on the side most distant +from the river channel present one of the finest and loftiest +rocky cliffs in the principality.' The Birmingham Water +Works have influenced the town for good in one respect only: +they have introduced a barber, who at the end of each +week mows navvies' cheeks by the acre.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Snowdon Ranger</b>, a small inn on the west side of +Snowdon, readily reached by rail from Carnarvon or coach +from Beddgelert, or again by an easy and interesting walk +over the low pass of Drws y Coed from Penygroes station. +It commands one of the simplest ascents of Snowdon, but by +no means the most interesting. Good climbing may be<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> +found near it on Clogwyndurarddu, on Mynydd Mawr, on +both sides of Drws y Coed, and on the Garnedd Goch range, +but none are on a very large scale.</p> + +<p>In the history of Welsh mountaineering it holds a place, +having long been the most usual starting-point for the +ascent of Snowdon, and all the early travellers came here. +Cradock (1770) calls it 'a small thatched hut at the foot of +the mountain (Snowdon), near a lake which they call Llyn +Cychwhechlyn (i.e. Quellyn), which I leave you to pronounce +as well as you are able. We procured a number +of blooming country girls to divert us with their music and +dancing.' Even these delights, however, could not keep +travellers from drifting away towards Beddgelert—a change +which, as readers of <i>Wild Wales</i> will remember, had +already become marked when Borrow had his interview +with the Snowdon guide forty years ago. The early accounts +often speak of this place as Bronyfedw (a name which still +survives), and for many years there used to be a kind of +'personally conducted' (Hamer's) ascent of Snowdon from +Carnarvon once a week by this route.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Tanybwlch.</b>—Wyndham, Pennant, and, indeed, nearly +all the early explorers of Wales stayed at this very pleasant +place. At that time the highroad from Dolgelly to Beddgelert +and Carnarvon passed the door; but the railway +having now superseded the post chaise has left the place +somewhat out in the cold. It has, however, some assistance +from the 'toy' line to Ffestiniog, and is a pretty little place, +though Moelwyn, Cynicht, Moel Siabod, and the Rhinogs<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span> +are all the mountains which it can command. For those +coming from England the best station is Maentwrog Road, +on the G.W.R. line from Bala.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h3>WHERE TO CLIMB</h3> + + +<p><b>Anglesey.</b>—The extreme flatness of the island perhaps +gives an increased effect to its fine rock scenery about the +Stacks, which will be respected by climbers as perhaps the +earliest school of their art in Wales. An old description of +the egg-takers here contains some interesting sentences which +are not wholly devoid of point even for climbers of the present +day. 'The gains bear no tolerable proportion to the danger +incurred. The adventurers, having furnished themselves +with every necessary implement, enter on the terrific undertaking. +Two—for this is a trade in which co-partnership +is absolutely necessary—take a station. He whose superior +agility renders it eligible prepares for the rupestrian expedition. +Dangerous employ! a slip of the foot or the +hand would in an instant be fatal to both. To a stranger +this occupation appears more dangerous than it really is. +In persons habituated to bodily difficulty the nervous +system becomes gradually braced, and the solids attain that +state of rigidity which banishes irritability, while the mind, +accustomed to danger, loses that timidity which frequently +leads to the dreaded disaster. Fact demonstrates to what +an extent difficulty and danger may be made subordinate to +art and perseverance.'</p> + +<p>This is the voice of truth, but the solids nowadays (owing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> +possibly to the fluids or to the want of them) do not banish +their irritability completely.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Carnarvonshire.</b>—Both in the quality and the quantity +of its climbs this county leaves the rest of Wales far +behind. Its superiority is even more marked than that of +Cumberland over the rest of England.</p> + +<p>Snowdon, the Glyders, and the Carnedds would alone be +sufficient to establish this; but there are numbers of less +important elevations which would have a great reputation +in almost any other county.</p> + +<p>The chief mountain centres are Penygwrhyd, Beddgelert, +Llanberis, and Snowdon Ranger, all four lying at the foot of +Snowdon, Benglog (Ogwen Cottage), Capel Curig, and +Ffestiniog.</p> + +<p>The appearance of the county must be greatly changed +since Leland's time. He tells us that 'the best wood of +Caernarvonshire is by Glinne Kledder and by Glin Llughy +and by Capel Kiryk and at Llanperis. More upwarde be +Eryri Hilles, and in them ys very little corne. If there were +the Deere would destroy it.' The destruction of this wood +has greatly injured the beauty of the valleys round Snowdon, +Nant Gwynant being the only one where it remains in any +quantity.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Penmaenmawr</b> (1,553 ft.) is far from being a difficult +mountain. The ancient Britons had a fort on the top of it, +and it was ascended 'by a person of quality in the reign of +Charles II.,' but it is scarcely a paradox to say that it was +the greatest obstacle to knowledge of Welsh mountains<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> +during last century. The highroad from Chester crossed it, +and our ancestors used to go rolling off it down into the sea, +and did not like it. Therefore a journey to Wales was a +great and a rare feat. All the early travellers dilate upon +its terrors. In 1795 Mr. T. Hucks, B.A., gives a ludicrous +account of his ascent, which was actually made without +a guide. 'We rashly took the resolution to venture up +this stupendous mountain without a guide, and therefore +unknowingly fixed upon the most difficult part to ascend, +and consequently were continually impeded by a vast +number of unexpected obstructions. At length we surmounted +every danger and difficulty, and safely arrived at +the top.... In the midst of my melancholy cogitations I +fully expected that the genius of the mountain would have +appeared to me in some formidable shape and have reproached +me with rashly presuming to disturb the sacred +silence of his solitary reign.' Penmaenmawr was not a +frequented tourist resort in those days. The genius would +not expect much sacred silence now. The writer knows of +no continuous climb on the mountain, though he has often +had a scramble on it.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>The Carnedd Group.</b>—<b>Carnedd Dafydd</b> (3,426 +ft.), said to have been named after David the brother of +Prince Llewelyn, rises on the north of Llyn Ogwen and on +the west of the river which flows from it. The view, looking +southward across Llyn Ogwen at the bold northern front +of the Glyder group, is one of the grandest in Wales. +That to the north-west is to a great extent cut off by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> +Carnedd Llewelyn. The usual starting-points are Bethesda, +Ogwen Cottage, and Capel Curig, though strong walkers +occasionally attack the mountain from the Conway valley +on the west and from Aber on the sea coast.</p> + +<p>From Bethesda the most direct way to the summit is to +steer south-east and straight at the mountain, which is full +in view. The distance is 3½ miles, and an active traveller, +if by any accident he extricates himself speedily from +Bethesda, may reach the summit in two hours. On the +other hand he is quite as likely to find himself, at the end +of the two hours, still wandering sadly up and down the +by-lanes of that maze-like village. The natives are polite, +and would willingly give any information; but they cannot +speak English, and they do not possess the information.</p> + +<p>There is only one street which leads anywhere in particular, +only one which can be known at sight and followed +fearlessly when known. It is the Holyhead road, and to +get from one house in Bethesda to another it is said that +even the inhabitants find it safest to make for the Holyhead +road at once, and thus secure an intelligible base of +operations.</p> + +<p>The route up Carnedd Dafydd by way of Penyroleuwen +begins with over two miles of this road, and is, consequently, +a very sound opening. It is only necessary to +turn off at Tynymaes, on the left hand, and strike up the +hill and along the ridge to Braichddu, overlooking the tarn +of Ffynnon y Lloer. A sharp turn is now made to the left +along the shoulder, and the great cairn which marks the +summit is soon reached.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span></p> + +<p>The route from Capel Curig is very easily found. Three +and a half miles along the Bangor road, after crossing the +river Llugwy, and just before a chapel, a path strikes off +on the right-hand side towards a farmhouse. Half a mile +along this path strike up the hill to the left, travelling at +first about north by compass, and afterwards, as the hill is +mounted, inclining more to the west.</p> + +<p>A less popular route, but perhaps shorter and more +easily found in mist, and certainly more effective in point of +scenery, leaves the highroad about a furlong short of Ogwen +Lake. Pass a farm and follow a stream for a mile up to +Ffynnon Lloer; from the head of the pool pick your way +through some rough ground to the left hand up on to +Braichddu, when the view of the Glyders bursts upon you +suddenly with great effect, and, on turning to the right to +make the final mount to the Carnedd, some good peeps +may be had down the confused rocks of Craig yr Ysfa.</p> + +<p>From Ogwen Cottage the last route is often the best, +especially when the party contains some weak members, as +the direct line from the foot of the lake is exceedingly +steep.</p> + +<p>The climbs on this mountain are practically limited to +Cefnysgolion Duon on the north and Craig yr Ysfa on the +west, overlooking Nantffrancon.</p> + +<p><i>Cefnysgolion Duon</i>—i.e. 'The Black Ladders,' by +which name it is commonly known—might be forced into +meaning 'The Black Schools,' and this sense greatly bewildered +a learned native, who observes, 'It is impossible +to imagine a spot less suited to the operations of the school-master.'<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> +But we can assure him that as a school for +climbers it leaves little to be desired.</p> + +<p>Perhaps 'Black Pinnacles' would be a better rendering, +'ysgol' being often used in that sense, the comparison referring +to a step-ladder, seen sideways, so as to present the +shape of an isosceles triangle.</p> + +<p>The crags are on the south side of Cwm Llafar, the great +hollow between the two Carnedds, and there is nothing to +do but to follow up from Bethesda the stream which flows +down it. In other words, the true line is almost parallel to +and about half a mile north of the most direct route to the +top of Carnedd Dafydd. As advance is made the slope +between the two routes becomes more and more rocky, and +when the Ladders themselves come fairly in view the scene +is a very grand one. There are two conspicuous gullies, +divided by a stretch of rock which looks almost unclimbable. +The right-hand or western gully is very steep, and having +often quite a stream in it, is then decidedly hard, and requires +considerable care in winter. The other gully slopes away +sharply to the left, behind a slight projection, and has only +one pitch in it, but that is really good. Two ways here +present themselves of climbing along the left-hand wall at +two different levels, neither of them too easy, or else the +gully may be deserted altogether, as the left bank forms a +ridge which offers easy but delightful climbing all over it, +the hold suddenly becoming magnificent. East of this ridge +the hold is still good, but the rocks dwindle in size, until, in +the centre of the col between the Carnedds, they wholly disappear.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span></p> + +<p>This noble crag has never been much frequented by +climbers, though in 1879 about a dozen members of the +Alpine Club took it on their way from Bangor to Capel +Curig.<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 8."> [8] </a></p> + +<p>Some years before 1869<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 9."> [9] </a> a Birmingham Scripture Reader +fell over it, and was, of course, killed.</p> + +<p><i>Craig yr Ysfa.</i>—These rugged and in parts highly +romantic rocks have attracted but few climbers. A hardworking +group of Bangor enthusiasts have done about all +the work that has been done here. In November 1894 +J. M. A. T., H. H., H. E., and J. S., quitting the road just +beyond the eighth milestone from Bangor, reached, in twenty +minutes, the mouth of a gully, broad except where it narrows +into a gorge, about half-way up. The climbing on the left +of the stream is quite easy, on its right less so; but in either +case the stream has to be abandoned at the first waterfall, +which is quite impracticable when there is any quantity of +water falling. One may climb out to the right by a small +tributary gully, or up the buttress of rock to the right, and +thus turn the lower fall as well as the upper fall, which is a +small edition of the Devil's Kitchen. Near the edge of the +cliff, on the left of the gorge, is a large tabular rock, which +forms the postern to a narrow passage back into the gully, +which soon broadens out and leaves a choice of routes; the +left-hand branch should be taken by preference, as it contains +a rather difficult pitch, above which the ascent to the +top of the ridge is simple.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 369px;"> +<a href="images/i_031.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_031_s.jpg" width="369" height="685" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">A GULLY ON CRAIG YR YSFA</span> +</div> + +<p>A second gully lies a few hundred yards nearer Ogwen +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span>Lake, and contains, besides cascades, two distinct waterfalls, +of which the first may be surmounted by a small but not +easy chimney close to it on the left, which is also the side +for attacking the second difficulty. Here a necessary grass +ledge above the level of the top of the fall was loosened by +heavy rain, and stopped the progress of the above party, +who completed the ascent by climbing out to the left.</p> + +<p>The craggy portion is just over one mile long. Towards +the head of Nant Ffrancon the rocks come lower, and are +more fantastic, affording a great variety of fine problems, +though few continuous climbs.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Carnedd Llewelyn</b> (3,484 ft.) is the second highest of +the Welsh mountains. The last Government Survey gave it a +slight lift, and at the same time slightly reduced Snowdon, +causing a rumour to go abroad, alarming to conservative +minds, that the latter had forfeited its pride of place. This +would have been a real misfortune, as the old-established +favourite is beyond all question the finest mountain of the +two. Only imagine the feelings of a poor peak abandoned +in its old age, without cheap trippers, without huts, without a +railway, without Sir Edward Watkin. The blow would have +been too cruel! The near views from Carnedd Llewelyn +are not remarkable. They consist mainly of the crags of +Yr Elen and those of the grand north face of Carnedd +Dafydd, which, however, practically conceal the Glyders, and +these again cut off most of Snowdon. But the seaward +view is very fine, and with regard to the very distant places, +such as the Cumberland Fells, this mountain has a great<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> +advantage over Snowdon both 'to see and to be seen.' +Perhaps the extra 7½ miles make the difference, but it is a +fact that for once that Snowdon is to be made out from +Scafell or Great Gable, Carnedd Llewelyn can be seen half +a dozen times.</p> + +<p>For the ascent Bethesda is the nearest. Several ways +present themselves, and whichever the traveller takes he +will think that he has taken the boggiest. One way is +straight up Cwm Llafar to the ridge (Bwlchcyfrwydrum) +between the two Carnedds, or inclining left one mile short +of this ridge one soon reaches the ridge connecting our +mountain with Yr Elen, on the other side of which are some +fine crags. The ascent by way of Cwm Caseg, the next +valley to the north, is equally simple and affords a good view +of these crags from below. In thick weather the long lonely +walk from Aber is an education in itself to the mountain +rambler, while from Talycafn station, on the north-west, a +good road comes to within a mile and a half E.S.E. of the +summit. The Capel Curig ascent is perhaps the least +interesting of all; by it the two Carnedds are usually +combined. Either the ascent or the return should be +made along the Pen Helig ridge, with regard to the terrors +of which the guide-books have used language as exaggerated +as the descriptions of Striding Edge on Helvellyn. In +winter, however, there is sometimes pretty work here.</p> + +<p><i>Climbs.</i>—A few rocks will be found round the remarkable +tarns of Llyndulyn and Melynllyn, on the north-east side of +the mountain, and on the west side of Llyn Eigiau. Better still +are the rocks near where the Talycafn road ends by a slate<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> +quarry in the rocks of Elicydu (apparently marked as Pen +Helig by the Ordnance Surveyors); but best of all is the north-east +side of Yr Elen, where there is a sort of small edition +of the Black Ladders, with the same sunless aspect, so that +it often keeps its snow in the same way till quite late in the +year. In winter, however, the grand cwm which lies due +east of the Carnedd offers splendid snow scenes and snow +work.</p> + +<p>Some years ago a quarryman was lost in the snow, and +an upright stone on the north ridge of the mountain marks +the spot. One of the earliest ascents of the mountain was +that made in 1630 by Johnson, who evidently had the spirit +of the mountaineer in him, for he pressed his guide to take +him to the more precipitous places, alleging the love of rare +plants. That worthy, however, declined to go, alleging the +fear of eagles. Mackintosh too had a difficulty here with +his guide during a winter's day excursion. But his fears +seem to have been entirely without reasonable cause, and he +was not so near to being robbed or murdered as he at one +time fancied. Mr. Paterson's charming book <i>Below the +Snow Line</i> describes the route from Llanfairfechan in wild +weather.</p> + +<p>In the <i>Philosophical Transactions</i> for 1771 will be +found noted an ascent which satisfied the climber and his +water-level that the summit was higher than that of Snowdon. +Pennant too made the ascent, but came to an opposite +conclusion on this point.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Elider Group.</b>—<b>Carnedd y Filiast</b> (i.e. 'Cairn of the +Female Greyhound') is a feature on the west side of Nant<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> +Ffrancon, on account of the very remarkable slabs which it +exhibits on that side. A hundred and twenty-five years ago +Pennant was told here that 'if the fox in extreme danger +takes over them in wet weather he falls down and perishes.' +Certainly they are dangerous enough to a less sure-footed +animal—man—and are best left alone, especially when there +is any ice about. The nearest place from which to start is +Bethesda. Another hill of the same name lies to the north +of Bala.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Foelgoch.</b>—A spur running north-west from Glyder +Fawr forms the western bank of Nant Ffrancon, and nearly +three miles along this ridge is Foelgoch (i.e. 'Red Hill'). It +has a steep western side towards the head of Cwm Dudodyn, +and on the other side a very steep rocky recess facing Llyn +Idwal. Llanberis and Bethesda stations are about equally +distant. From the former place it is seldom visited, except +before or after the ascent of Elidyr Fawr.</p> + +<p>On August 6, 1886, E. K. writes, 'There is excellent +scrambling to be had about this mountain, and some really +difficult work.'</p> + +<p>On September 29, 1894, a party of three climbed from +Nant Ffrancon.</p> + +<p>The break in the ridge may be reached either by following +the ridge itself or from the cwms on either side of it. +The ascent thence to the summit offers easy but steep +climbing if the crest of the ridge be scrupulously adhered to. +Passing over the summit of Y Garn the descent was made +down the southern ridge of Cwm Clyd, which gives a good +scramble along its barren arête.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_036.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_036_s.jpg" width="400" height="535" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">TWLL DU + +(looking down through it to Llyn Idwal and Llyn Ogwen)</span> +</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Y Garn</b> (3,104 ft.), near the head of Nant Ffrancon, on +the west side, is little visited, but has some very good rock on +it. Benglog is much the nearest place. The well-known +Twll Du may almost be said to be on it, and is practically +the division between it and Glyder Fawr.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Twll Du</b> (i.e. 'Black Pit'), commonly called the 'Devil's +Kitchen,' is a remarkable chasm in the line of cliff which +faces the head of Llyn Idwal on the south-west, being a +northerly continuation of Glyder Fawr. From Benglog, +which is much the nearest place, there is little choice of +route; either side of Llyn Idwal will do, but the west side +is rather less boggy. Keeping well up you pass the head +of Idwal until you bring it on with the head of Llyn Ogwen, +and then about 500 ft. above the former you find yourself at +the foot of this grand fissure. In dry weather all but the +highest patch can be easily ascended; after rain it is sometimes +difficult to enter the place at all. In the summer of +1893, which was extraordinarily dry, a young fellow claimed +to have done it single-handed, but it was supposed by some +that he had mistaken the place. During the intense cold of +March 1895 an extraordinary <i>tour de force</i> was accomplished +here by J. M. A. T. and H. H., who cut their way up +the frozen waterfall, and thus accomplished what was probably +the first ascent of this formidable chasm. The height +of the final pitch in its normal condition is about 53 ft., +measured from the top of the block down to the surface of +the pool below. When the climb above described was made, +no doubt much of this height was filled up by snow and ice,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>yet the remainder was not surmounted in less than 7 hours, +so that the average rate of progress must have been about +5 ft. per hour. The total time from Benglog to the top of +the Kitchen was 8½ hours. The party descended in the dark +to Llanberis in 3 hours more, having left Ogwen in the +morning at 10 o'clock. Those who approach from Upper +Llanberis by way of Cwm Patric or from Penygwrhyd over +the shoulder west of Glyder Fawr, and, in fact, all who do +not come by way of Benglog, have to descend the high cliff +out of which the Kitchen is cut. The only convenient +passage starts about a furlong to the south of the Kitchen, +and is very awkward at night or in mist. It begins as a +wide, straight trough (the largest and most regular of two or +three), which slopes gently downwards and towards Benglog. +Presently it takes a more northerly direction and becomes a +steep, wide slope of scree following the line of cliff to the +great blocks of fallen stones which mark the mouth of the +chasm. An active man can return from the lower to the +upper exit of the chimney in ten minutes, and the descent +could, of course, be done in even less time. In dry weather +there is but one slight difficulty before reaching the grand +crux at the head. It can be climbed by passing into a +cavern and up to the left, but the easier, and after heavy rain +the only practicable, way is up the side-wall just to the left +of the choke-stone on to a broad ledge. A little way above +this a huge slab, fallen from above, is seen leaning against +the wall on the right. The passage to the right of it can +always be made, however strong the stream on the left hand +may be. The climb to the top of this slab is very neat, and,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> +besides affording a capital view of the situation, is about all +the consolation left for the ardent explorer, who will seldom +succeed in penetrating any further. There are, however, +two possible lines of advance, both on the left-hand wall, one +well in under the colossal cap-stone, which hangs 50 ft. overhead, +and the other outside, nearly opposite the great slab. +By the latter route 20 ft. or 30 ft. can be climbed with some +little difficulty, but the traverse to the right would no doubt +prove a very ticklish operation. Cliffe, in June 1843, penetrated +to the foot of the final obstacle, and gives a very good +description of it.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_038.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_038_s.jpg" width="400" height="587" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">TWLL DU + +(looking up from within)</span> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Glyder Group.</b>—<b>Glyder Fach</b> (3,262 ft.), though +called 'the lesser,' is far finer than its brother peak, so much +so that many have found great difficulty in believing that the +Ordnance Surveyors were right in ascribing 17 ft. of superiority +to the more lumpy western summit. One might be tempted +to build a 20-ft. cairn but for the fear of spoiling the great +glory of Glyder Fach, the chaos of rocks on its summit. The +present cairn was not in existence ten years ago, and must +have been built about 1887.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a href="images/i_041.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_041_s.jpg" width="600" height="408" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">SKETCH MAP OF + +THE GLYDERS + +AND + +TRYFAEN</span> +</div> + +<p><i>Ascents.</i>—From Benglog the most interesting ascent is +by the Gribin ridge, between Idwal and Bochllwyd. It involves +a slight descent (about 150 ft.) after reaching the +ridge, but it is less fatiguing than that by Bwlch Tryfaen and +the steep rough screes on the right hand beyond it. From +Penygwrhyd you mount behind the inn, crossing the bog as +you best can towards a wall which goes straight up the hill. +When the direction of the wall changes you make a compromise<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>midway between the old and the new, and very soon +come on to a line of cairns which continues right on to the +boggy tableland above. Tryfaen top now appears over the hill, +and as soon as it is fairly lifted you bear to the left and up a +stony slope to the cairn. From Capel Curig it is a simple +matter to follow the ridge of Cefn y Capel, but quicker to keep +along the highroad past the Llynian Mymbyr, and then +strike up a grass slope to the right. As often as not both +Glyders are ascended in one expedition; the dip between the +two is only 300 ft., the distance is under a mile, and stones +are the only obstacles.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_042.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_042_s.jpg" width="400" height="222" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">SUMMIT OF GLYDER FACH</span> +</div> + +<p><i>Climbs.</i>—The north face of this mountain is remarkably +fine and contains all the climbing there is. At the east end +is the bristly ridge leading down to Bwlch Tryfaen. This is +stimulating, but not difficult. In the centre of the face there<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> +is a large gully, ascended in November 1894 by J. M. A. T., +H. H., and H. E. They did not find it necessary to use the rope. +The lofty pitch at the foot of the eastern gully is decidedly +hard. (J. M. A. T.) In May 1888 W. E. C., A. E., E. B., and +E. K. found and ascended a gully close under the west side +of Castell Gwynt, and add that they reached Penygwrhyd by +way of Cwm Graianog. The last statement is very mysterious. +About the Castell itself (the rugged pile of rocks between +the two Glyders, marked by its slender outstanding 'sentinel'), +and about the summit of the Fach, there are some good +scrambles on a small scale.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_043.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_043_s.jpg" width="400" height="164" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">CASTELL GWYNT AND GLYDER FAWR</span> +</div> + +<p>Directly under the top stone is the minimum thermometer, +which has been kept there for some years.<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 10."> [10] </a> The +most interesting thing on the whole mountain is undoubtedly +the pile of stones on the top. According to the bard Taliesin +it is the burial-place of a mighty warrior, one Ebediw. If a +kind of Stonehenge was erected there to his memory and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>afterwards got upset by an earthquake it might account for +present appearances. Edward Lhwyd, the great antiquary, +was particularly struck by them 200 years ago, and his description +and remarks are equally applicable to-day.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_044.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_044_s.jpg" width="400" height="279" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">ROCKS ON GLYDER FACH</span> +</div> + +<p>'On the utmost top of the Glyder,' he says, 'I observed +prodigious heaps of stones, many of them of the largeness +of those of Stonehenge, but of all the irregular shapes +imaginable, and all lying in such confusion as the ruins of +any building can be supposed to do.... Had they been in +a valley I had concluded they had fallen from the neighbouring +rocks ... but, being on the highest part of the hill, +they seemed to me much more remarkable.' He goes on to +remark upon a precipice which has not been identified (see<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> +<i>Esgair Felen</i>). 'On the west side of the same hill there is, +amongst many others, one naked precipice (near or one of +the Trigfylchau, but distinguished by no particular name), as +steep as any I have seen, but so adorned with numerous +equidistant pillars, and these again slightly crossed at certain +joints. 'Twas evident that the gullies or interstices +were occasioned by a continued dropping of water down this +cliff.' Trigfylchau, by the way (i.e. 'Twisting Gaps'), is a +name which does not seem to be known at the present day.</p> + +<p>Lhwyd's description fired the curiosity of the travellers +who explored Wales nearly a century later, and the amusing +part of it is that they could not find this wonderful mountain, +or even hear of it from the intelligent natives.</p> + +<p>Cradock (1770) found an aged man, who told him that the +mountain was 'now called the Wythwar (Wyddfa),' which +stands 'a few miles south of the parish of Clynog;' and H. P. +Wyndham went further by identifying it with 'the mountain +called Ryvil in Speed's map' (i.e. Yr Eifl). It shows how +little the natives knew about their mountains until the +travellers came and taught them. Pennant made the ascent, +and gives a picture of the summit. Bingley also went up, +and gives a good description.</p> + +<p>Kingsley's fine description, in <i>Two Years Ago</i>, of Elsley's +ascent really applies mainly to Glyder Fach, though he only +mentions the Fawr. Elsley's descent, by the way, was +apparently into Bochllwyd by way of Castell Gwynt.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_046.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_046_s.jpg" width="400" height="278" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">GLYDER FAWR, NORTH FACE</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Glyder Fawr</b> (3,279 ft.).—The meaning of the name +is a mystery. One Welsh scholar gravely tells us that the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>real name is Clydar, which at once yields the obviously suitable +meaning of a 'well-shaded ploughed ground.' Either +of these epithets would be quite as appropriate to the Sahara +itself, for the two Glyders are among the barest and rockiest +mountains in all Wales. The two roads which lead from +Capel Curig, one over the Pass of Llanberis and the other +through Nant Ffrancon to Bangor, enclose between them the +whole of the Glyder group, forming a singular figure, which +recalls Menenius Agrippa's description of the Second Citizen +as 'the great toe of this assembly.' The toe is slightly bent; +Penygwrhyd is the knuckle, Capel Curig the tip of the nail, +and Benglog (the head of Nant Ffrancon) is just in the +inside bend. The highest point of the group lies practically +in a straight line with Snowdon and Carnedd Llewelyn, and, +roughly speaking, midway between them. Of Snowdon it +commands a profoundly impressive view, and is in turn itself +best seen from the Carnedds.</p> + +<p>Both Glyders are very frequently ascended from Penygwrhyd, +Llanberis, Capel Curig, and Ogwen.</p> + +<p>The simplest way up is from the top of the Llanberis +Pass, from which a ridge leads to the summit. This is, perhaps, +the best way if the start be made from any place not +on the north side, though from Penygwrhyd the route may +be boggily abbreviated by making up the little valley to the +north-west. From Ogwen the usual ascent passes near Twll Du, +though the ridge separating the Idwal and Bochllwyd lakelets +is sometimes chosen, and certainly affords a greater +variety of fine views.</p> + +<p>Climbing on this mountain is practically confined to its<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> +northern face, and even there very little has been done. +There are also a few rocks on the west side. The climbing-book +at Penygwrhyd contains very few references to it. At +Easter in 1884 H. and C. S. mention that they enjoyed fine +glissades down the snow slopes on the north-west side to Llyn y +Cwn, but the first real climb recorded therein is that of the +big gully in the north face, made on November 25, 1894, by +J. M. A. T., H. H., and H. E. From the far end of Llyn Idwal +a long scree leads up to the mouth of the gully, which may be +identified from a distance by the pitch which blocks it about +half-way up and a broad strip of grass outside it on the west. +The point to make for is the head of a wall which runs up +from the extreme south end of the llyn to the corner of a +huge mass of bare smooth rock. If the traveller reaches +this point without being engulfed in the boggy ground which +fringes the llyn he will now continue in the same general +direction as the wall, and soon sees the gully just before him. +A kind of trough, probably produced by weathering of the +rock, is now seen on the left, and this, as it appeared more +interesting than the steep grass of the central part of the +gully, was followed at first by the above-mentioned party. +The trough is very easy at the foot, and has good holds, +which higher up incline outwards, and become less and less +prominent until at last progress becomes a question of +delicacy and circumspection. Before the trough came entirely +to an end the party traversed into the gully, but even +there found the ascent to the pitch far from easy. Utilising the +full length of their 80-ft. rope, and moving only one at a +time, they reached the cave under the big pitch. Here it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> +appeared hopeless to climb out on either side, and recourse +had to be taken to engineering of the same kind which was +successfully put in practice some years ago on Dow Crags, in +Lancashire, by a very scientific band of brothers. Similar +success crowned the efforts of this party, and brilliant +gymnastics on the part of the leader landed them safely at +the top of this difficulty. From this point the remainder of +the climb has a deceptively easy appearance. Some 80 ft. +higher up the difficulties begin again, and continue up to a +small pitch just below the top. On one stretch it was found +necessary to adopt a compromise between the wisdom of the +serpent and the aimlessness of the crab, advancing by lateral +jerks in a semi-recumbent attitude. Possibly these extreme +measures would not have been necessary but for the fact that +on this occasion the conclusion of a spell of three weeks of +incessant rain was chosen as a suitable opportunity for +attacking this face of the Glyder. It was the opinion of the +party that the climb—at any rate in its then condition—is +incontestably more difficult than that of the western buttress +of Lliwedd. The time taken was 4 hours, including a short +halt for luncheon.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 394px;"> +<a href="images/i_050.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_050_s.jpg" width="394" height="537" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">WESTERN GULLY IN NORTH FACE OF GLYDER FAWR</span> +</div> + +<p>This gully is the more westerly of two. The other one +was climbed in May 1895 by J. M. A. T., H. H., and W. E. +One of the party says of it, 'We soon came to some rather +difficult rocks; we climbed them close under the right-hand +wall—a really stiff little bit. The gully here is still quite +broad, and on the left side of it we saw another way, which +looked much easier. We found no special difficulty in the +jammed stone which looks from below such a formidable<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>obstacle. Two of us climbed it on the right; the third man +circumvented it on the left. From this point to the summit +is excellent throughout, the rocks being steep, the holds +strong, well defined, and most conveniently distributed. In +my opinion it is the best thing on the Glyders, and it can be +done by a single man.' Still further east a narrow crack gives +a very steep but easy rock staircase, while west of the gully +first described is another with two pitches, of which the lower +is harder and the upper easier than they look. The 60 ft. just +above the latter are climbed by means of slight rugosities +in the left-hand wall. It is somewhat curious that when, in +February 1873, Glyder Fawr was crossed from Ogwen by +way of Twll Du, with John Roberts as guide, it was recorded +in the <i>Alpine Journal</i><a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 11."> [11] </a> as something of a feat and something +of an eccentricity. Twenty years have made a great change, +and now, about Christmas or Easter, the snow on these hills +is marked by tracks in many directions.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 595px;"> +<a href="images/i_052.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_052_s.jpg" width="595" height="373" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">LLYN IDWAL + +a, The gullies of Glyder Fawr. + +b, Descent to the foot of Twll Du. + +c, Twll Du.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Esgair Felen</b> (i.e. 'The Yellow Shank').—In August +1893 G. W. de T. found very good rocks and gullies +on this shoulder of Glyder Fawr. Ascending from just +above the cromlech stone in Llanberis Pass, the buttress +immediately above can be climbed on the right or south-west +side. The upper half may be climbed by a narrow +gully, too narrow at first to enter, and giving little hold for +hands or feet, and that little not sound. Apparently the +leader climbed up a little way, and then the rest of the party +climbed up the leader. They found good climbing without +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span>special difficulty among the rocks on the top of the great +gully in the centre.</p> + +<p>It is somewhere in this neighbourhood that we must +look for the mysterious precipice of which Edward Lhwyd +wrote two hundred years ago as being strikingly columnar +in structure, and possibly identical with 'one of the +Tregvylchau or Treiglvylcheu.' He says it is part of the +Glyder, and faces west. Perhaps it is about the east side of +Cwm Patric. As seen from well down the Llanberis +Pass these rocks have a very striking appearance.</p> + +<p>The term 'esgair' is very commonly applied to long +straight projections from higher mountains. Instances of +its use are E. Weddar, E. Yn-Eira, E. Geiliog, E. Hir, and +E. Galed.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_054.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_054_s.jpg" width="400" height="245" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">TRYFAEN FROM THE EAST + +(Sketched by Colin B. Phillip)</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Tryfaen</b> (3,010 ft.), not to be confounded with the hill +of the same name on the Llanberis side of Snowdon, or the +other near Bettws Garmon, is the most remarkable rock +mountain in Wales; it has two pillar stones on its summit, +from which it is often said that the name (= 'three rocks') +is derived. In answer to this it is enough to point out that +the assumed third stone is not there, and could not have +disappeared without a trace, while the name would equally +well mean 'three peaks,' which the mountain certainly has +when viewed from either east or west. The Welsh dictionaries +give a word 'tryfan' with the sense of 'anything +spotted through,' and, whether or not this has anything to +do with the origin of the name, the component rocks certainly +are quartz-speckled in a most extraordinary manner. +The mountain is practically a ridge of rock running in a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>southerly direction from the head of Llyn Ogwen towards +Glyder Fach, from which it is separated by a sharp dip, Bwlch +Tryfaen. This dip, which may be reached either from Cwm +Bochllwyd on the west or from Cwm Tryfaen on the east, +offers by far the easiest ascent of the mountain. The best +starting-point for Tryfaen is Ogwen Cottage, at Benglog, +from which Llynbochllwyd is reached in 25 and the said +dip in 45 minutes; so that, if need were, the whole height +(2,000 ft.) and distance (1½ mile) to the summit could be +attained within the hour. From Capel Curig, on the other +hand, there is a good hour's walking before the highroad is +left, beyond Gallt y Gogof, which Borrow calls Allt y Gôg +(Cuckoo Cliff), and even then the traveller has about as far +to go as if he were starting from Benglog. Most of the +Tryfaen climbs being on the east side they can be reached +from Capel Curig with much less exertion than from Penygwrhyd, +the route from which involves a long, rugged ascent, +hot after the sun has risen and ankle-breaking after it has set.</p> + +<p><i>Climbs.</i>—These are extraordinarily abundant, and the +hold is nearly everywhere gritty and good. The most +popular climbs are:</p> + +<p>1. The east side, including especially the two gullies on +either side of the summit known as the North and South +Gullies.</p> + +<p>2. The north ridge up from the head of Llyn Ogwen.</p> + +<p>3. The west side.</p> + +<p><i>The South Gully</i>, climbed by R. W. (1887). The first +ascent noticed in the <i>Book of Penygwrhyd</i> being that of +H. G. G. and W. in 1890. On September 5, 1891, H. G. G.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> +and E. B. T. offered some clear notes on the subject, to the +following effect: The first difficulty consists of three or four +jammed stones, each slightly overhanging the one beneath, +with a total height of about 10 ft. It can be passed by +keeping to the right close to the obstacle, but would not be +easy in wet weather for any climber single-handed. At the +place where the gully divides the left-hand or nearer +division is not difficult. The broad division was found +impracticable by a party of four on September 4, 1891, the +large smooth rocks at the top being very wet. This place +was climbed in 1890 by Messrs. G. and W. by keeping +to the extreme right close to the wall of the gully, and +then returning along a narrow ledge. It was an awkward +place. There is nothing above where the two gullies unite +that offers any real difficulty.</p> + +<p>The North Gully is the more difficult of the two if the +immediate centre is to be followed; but it is always practicable +to break out on the face to the right. The difficulties +of the South Gully are not so severe, but such as they are +they must be climbed, as there is no lateral escape.</p> + +<p>Under date of June 9, 1894, a very clear account is given +by J. M. A. T., J. R. S., and H. E. At the first obstacle the +first man climbed up into the hole formed by the projection +of the topmost rock, but, as the next beneath slopes outwards +and downwards, found it impossible to relinquish a +crouching posture. The pitch was abandoned. The right-hand +rocks close by were taken, and the gully rejoined +without difficulty. At the fork the northern branch was +chosen. It can scarcely be called a gully; the water trickles<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> +down over the crags in several places, but there is no main +or well-defined channel. A pinnacle is soon seen on the +right, and here the climbing becomes difficult; the footholds +are far apart, and the small tufts of grass, which were then +wet and slippery, cannot be trusted. The course taken was +to the extreme left, and as far as possible from the pinnacle, +and in this respect it differs from that taken by Messrs. +H. G. G. and W. in 1890. A firm, flat grass-covered shelf, +at least a yard square, is seen in a straight line up above, +and as soon as the first man has reached this a rope can be +used to advantage. A steep rock some 12 ft. in height and +of ordinary difficulty remains, and the climb thence to +the summit is quite simple. By keeping to the left a cavern +is reached, the further end of which opens like a trap door +upon the summit; this interesting method of concluding +the ascent should not be missed.</p> + +<p>On August 25, 1892, G. B. B. with Mr. and Mrs. T. R. +climbed the five pitches of the South Gully, <i>a</i>, <i>b</i>, <i>c</i>, <i>d</i>, <i>e</i>; <i>a</i> +by the right-hand wall, <i>b</i> in the centre, <i>c</i> by divergence to +the right-hand branch and return to the left over a narrow +ledge, <i>d</i> and <i>e</i> in the centre or slightly on one side of the +face. The gully was never left. Time, about 90 minutes.</p> + +<p><i>North Gully.</i>—This appears to have been climbed in +1888 by R. W. and T. W. Writing on September 5, 1891, +H. G. G. and E. B. T. gave the following hints:—</p> + +<p>The first difficulty is at the bottom, below the level of +any part of the South Gully, and might easily be missed if +the horizontal track be followed. On August 30, 1891, these +gentlemen found the middle of this (after very wet weather)<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> +quite impracticable, and the smooth rock on the right hand, +lying at a very high angle, was also wet and very difficult. +Either might possibly be passed in a dry season, the rock +almost certainly. The next point of note is a very large +lodged stone. Going under this they passed through the +hole above, one climbing on the other's shoulder and afterwards +giving him help from above. The passage was not +easy.</p> + +<p>The next difficulty is made up of two lodged stones +about 10 ft. apart. The first might be passed in dry weather. +A tempting ledge to the left was climbed without result; +ultimately they rounded the obstacle by keeping to the +right.</p> + +<p>On September 19 W. E. C., H. R. B., and M. K. S. ascended +the North Gully. They describe it as containing +seven pitches, two of which are caverns. They believed that +this gully had only once been climbed clean before—namely, +in the autumn of 1888, by Messrs. R. W. and T. W.</p> + +<p>On April 1, 1892, H. B. D., F. W. G., and A. M. M., with +Mrs. D. and Mrs. C., ascended the North Gully in 2 hours +10 minutes. The last pitch gave some trouble.</p> + +<p>In August 1892 W. H. P. and G. B. B. climbed all the +pitches of the North Gully clean, taking the sixth from the +bottom by the right side and the rocks straight to the +summit stones, from where the gully divides. Time, +91 minutes. There is a singular difference of opinion among +climbers as to the relative difficulty of these two climbs. +Varying conditions of rocks and climbers may partly account +for this. Without pretending to decide the matter either<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> +way the writer would give it as his experience that unusual +conditions more readily affect the southern for evil and the +northern for good. For instance, wet or ice makes the +former very nasty without altering the latter to the same +extent, while really deep and good snow moderately improves +the former but converts the latter into a delusion and a +mockery, for it ceases altogether to be a climb at all, and +becomes a mere snow walk. Even then it is worth doing if +it were only to see the wonderful convoluted strata, in the +case of more than one great block imitating the rings in the +trunk of a tree.</p> + +<p><i>Nor'-Nor' Gully.</i>—On September 18, 1891, Messrs. +W. E. C., G. S., and M. K. S. ascended a gully leading on to +the north ridge of Tryfaen just to the north of the most +northerly of the three peaks. The gully contains three +pretty pitches, all of which were climbed, but two of them +can be turned.</p> + +<p>There is yet a fourth gully, still further north, but it has +only one obstacle in it, and more scree than anyone can +possibly want. So much attention has been devoted to these +gullies during the last few years that the ridges which +separate them have been unduly neglected. To the writer +at least they have always seemed to offer better climbing +than any of the gullies, and that of a kind which is very +much less common. The ridges on either side of the +North Gully are especially fine, and would satisfy the most +exacting but for one thing, and that is that the hold is +almost too good.</p> + +<p><i>The North Ridge</i>, from the head of Llyn Ogwen, is of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> +very imposing appearance, and was long spoken of with +bated breath. In reality it is a fine but very simple +and safe approach to the summit. The gluttonous climbers +of the present day will probably complain that it is not a +climb at all, but, though the difficulties, such as they are, can +all be turned, the more enterprising members of a party can +always find abundant outlets for their energies in numerous +wayside problems.</p> + +<p>Some of the rocks are very fantastic in shape; one +projecting horizontally bears a resemblance to a crocodile +and can be easily recognised from the east. Highly crystalline +quartz veins render the rock surfaces even rougher +than they would otherwise be, and in a few places the face +of the rock is covered with egg-like projections, each containing +a core of quartz. At a little distance they look like +huge barnacles; their real nature may be left to the +geologists.</p> + +<p>On reaching the heads of the principal gullies the +climber will fall in with some capital rocks on or beside +his path along the ridge. At the very top he cannot fail +even in mist to recognise the two upright rectangular stones, +which are so conspicuous from afar. The feat of jumping +from one to the other, by the performance of which Mr. +Bingley's friend made that eminent traveller's 'blood chill +with horror' nearly a hundred years ago, is not as difficult +as it has been represented to be, and the danger of falling +over the precipice in case of failure is purely imaginary. +The unskilful leaper would merely fall on to the rough +stones at the base of the pillars. Of the two jumps, that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> +from north to south is the easier. Bingley's guide, +perhaps anxious to cap the Saxon's feat, told him that +'a female of an adjoining parish was celebrated for having +often performed this daring leap.' Large as the pillars are +it is difficult to believe that they were placed in the position +they occupy by unassisted nature; they seem too upright, +too well squared, and too level-topped; with a cross-piece +on the top they would form a nobly-placed 'trilithon,' of +which any 'dolmen-builder' might be proud.</p> + +<p><i>The West Side.</i>—A great part of this is occupied by +a series of huge slabs, which have been compared by +F. H. B. to Flat Crags on Bow Fell. In places luxuriant +heather artfully conceals sudden drops and rolling stones +on account of which several tempting descents on this side +will prove annoying. The only important gully is well +seen from Benglog. To reach it strike south-east by the +highroad at a point about half a mile east of Benglog. +About half-way up the gully trends away to the left, and +comes out at a deep notch in the summit ridge. Excellent +scrambling again may be found by climbing up eastward +from the shore of Bochllwyd.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 597px;"> +<a href="images/i_062.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_062_s.jpg" width="597" height="376" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">TRYFAEN FROM THE NORTH-WEST.</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Moel Siabod</b> (2,860 ft.) is ascended most easily from +Capel Curig, but Dolwyddelan and Penygwrhyd are only +slightly more distant, though considerably more boggy. The +ascent is worth making, for the sake of the excellent view +of Snowdon. The east side is by far the most abrupt, and +here a few good crags are found. From this side also the +mountain looks its best, but even seen from the west, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>tamer side, it is, especially when snow-clad and lit by the +setting sun, a remarkably effective feature in the landscape.</p> + +<p>Readers of 'Madoc,' if such indeed there be, may remember +that Southey was benighted on the hills around +Dolwyddelan. In that episode Moel Siabod may well have +played a part.</p> + +<p>About the year 1830 Mr. Philip Homer was benighted on +it, and died of exhaustion. Mention of this accident is +made both by Roscoe (1836) and by Cliffe, who says he +heard many details from an eye-witness. The body was +taken to Capel Curig and buried there.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Snowdon</b> (3,560 ft.) is the loftiest peak in this island +south of Scotland, and one of the most beautiful that is to +be seen anywhere. The name seems to have originally +described a whole district which the Welsh called Craig +Eryri (variously rendered 'rock of eagles' and 'rock of +snow'). The peak itself is called Y Wyddfa (pronounced +'E Withva'), which is usually translated 'place of presence' +or 'of recognition;' but the splendid suppleness of the +Welsh language admits of rival renderings, such as 'place of +shrubs or trees,' with which may be compared the name +Gwyddallt—i.e. 'woody cliff;' and even, as a non-climber +once observed, on seeing a panting form appear at the top of +a gully on Clogwyn Garnedd, 'place for a goose.'</p> + +<p>Leland speaks of 'the greate Withaw hille,' and says 'all +Cregeryri is Forest,' and, in another place, 'horrible with +the sight of bare stones as Cregeryri be.'</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_064.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_064_s.jpg" width="400" height="339" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +</div> + +<p>Snowdon may be climbed from many points. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> +nearest inns are Penygwrhyd, Beddgelert, Snowdon Ranger, +and Llanberis. The peculiarity of Snowdon consists in the +huge cwms which radiate from its summit, and these will<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> +be found described in their order, following the course of the +sun, and the climbs to be found in each will be indicated.</p> + +<p>Books on Snowdon are simply countless, and the same +remark applies to the pictures which have been taken of it +and the panoramas which have been drawn from it.</p> + +<p>Unfortunately a very large number of fatal accidents +have taken place on this mountain, and an interesting but +somewhat incomplete article on this subject will be found +in <i>Chambers's Journal</i> for May 1887. The Mr. Livesey +there mentioned as having been killed by lightning seems to +have been really named Livesley, and was of Ashton, in +Mackerfield, Lancashire. This occurred on Sunday, September +21, 1884 (the <i>Times</i>, September 23).</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 582px;"> +<a href="images/i_066.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_066_s.jpg" width="582" height="324" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">CWM GLAS AND THE PARSON'S NOSE, FROM THE WEST</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Cwm Glas.</b>—As there are three or four tarns on +Snowdon called Llyn Glas, so the name of Cwm Glas +appears to have been confusingly popular. Cwm Glas +proper lies immediately under Crib y Ddysgl, and Crib Goch +on the north side; but, to say nothing of the next hollow to +the west, which is called Cwm Glas Bach (i.e. little), a recess +lying just north of both is called by the same name, and it +would appear, from some of the early topographers, that +they understood the term to comprehend the whole valley +which forms the west approach to the Llanberis Pass. The +proper cwm can only be reached from Llanberis or from +Penygwrhyd. From the latter (the usual starting-point) the +simplest, though not the shortest, way is to go over the +pass and down to Pontygromlech, and there, instead of +crossing by the bridge, bear away to the left, and up into<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span>the cwm. Experts can save something by striking off much +earlier near the top of the pass. Those who come from +Llanberis will leave the highroad at a point 3½ miles from +the station and about half a mile short of the cromlech.</p> + +<p>Before the two pools come into sight several short but +striking pieces of rock are met with, and, indeed, the rock +scenery on all sides is extremely fine. Many people come +here for that reason alone, and are content to see the rocks +without climbing them. For them there is an easy way up +to join the Llanberis path by way of the grassy slope west +of the Parson's Nose, of which more anon. Between the +two a second ridge is seen, smaller than the Nose, and +roughly parallel to it, leading out on to Ddysgl, much further +up. Not far from this Mr. F. R. Wilton died in 1874 (see +<i>Crib y Ddysgl</i>) and Mr. Dismore was killed in 1882.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Parson's Nose.</b>—The best known climb in Cwm Glas +is on the rock called Clogwyn y Person (i.e. 'Parson's Cliff'), +alias the <b>Parson's Nose</b>. It is a spur of Crib y Ddysgl, and +is easily identified by its projecting in a northerly direction +between the two little pools in Cwm Glas. No one seems to +know the origin of the name; possibly it may have been scaled +by the famous climbing cleric who haunted Snowdonia half a +century ago. The most striking feature of this fine arête is the +wonderful excellence of the hold. Faces crossed by precarious-looking +ledges are found on a closer inspection to have behind +those ledges deep, narrow, vertical rifts, affording the perfection +of hand-hold, while the rock surface itself is so prickly +and tenacious that boot-nails grip splendidly, and the only<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> +difficulty for the fingers is that some of them are apt to get +left behind on the rocks. It may be climbed direct up the +face, either from the very foot or from a point more to the +right and some 30 ft. higher up. The height of the initial +climb is something like 100 ft. Again, there is a gully on +each side of the actual Nose, and it is usually climbed by +one or other of these. The western gully is blocked above +by an overhanging rock, over or under which it is necessary +to climb or crawl. The gully on the opposite or east side is +longer, and generally much wetter, and is on that account +considered more difficult either to go up or to come down. +The three ascents unite close to the cairn. Above the cairn +the ridge continues, broken by only two respectable pitches, +and leads on to the great tower on Crib y Ddysgl, some +1,200 ft. above the beginning of the climb. It is not, however, +necessary, in order to get up out of Cwm Glas on to +the main ridge, to climb the Nose at all; by proceeding west +and over some white quartz slabs, close under the ridge, and +then turning left, one can get out easily a few feet from +the top of the Nose, or nearly the same point may be +reached from the east side, only it will be after a less +interesting and generally somewhat wetter ascent. If a +climb is desired when the gullies are in a dangerous condition, +there is a place further to the right than the right-hand +or west gully where a very steep but safe scramble among +big blocks leads up on to the bridge of the Nose.</p> + +<p>The following ascents are noted in the book at Penygwrhyd, +that by T. W. and R. W. being probably the first:—</p> + +<p><i>1887, September 18.</i>—W. E. C. and A. E.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span></p> + +<p><i>1890, June 21.</i>—W. P. and G. B. B. tried the Parson's +Nose, and, climbing the cleft from the south side, crawled +between the rocks which block its upper part, then up the +crags to the right for a short distance.</p> + +<p><i>1892, April 2.</i>—A party which had ascended the north +gully of Tryfaen the day before ascended the Parson's +Nose up the ridge, starting from the cleft. About 50 ft. +above it a wall of rock is met which must be climbed either +round a corner on the right hand or up a steep chimney on +the left. The latter route was chosen, but a large stone (the +middle one of three on the left side of the chimney) slipped, +and remained in a dangerous position.</p> + +<p><i>1892, August.</i>—W. H. P. and G. B. B. climbed the 'wall +of rock' straight up, which they thought easier than the +chimney to the left or the green gully to the right.</p> + +<p><i>September 23.</i>—Mrs. H., Miss B., and a large party of +gentlemen climbed the Parson's Nose by the gully on the +Llanberis side and the jammed stone.</p> + +<p>Bingley visited this cwm at the close of last century, +and gives a good description of it. He was much impressed +by Caddy of Cwm Glas, the strong woman. Her real name, +by the way, was Catherine Thomas.</p> + +<p>Cwm Glas Bach also has some fine rocks, and from the +head of it up to Cyrn Las a good climb may be had.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Crib Goch</b> ('The Red Ridge') stretches down westward +from Crib y Ddysgl to about opposite the summit of the +Pass of Llanberis. The name is sometimes used for the +whole length of both cribs. This is admitted on all hands<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> +to be inaccurate, if convenient, but there is some difference +of opinion as to where the line of demarcation should be +drawn. Some say at Bwlch Goch (2,816 ft.), while others +put it a quarter of a mile or more further west. About +500 yards east of the Bwlch, at almost the highest point +(3,023 ft.) of the ridge, a side-ridge strikes away to the north, +while the main line continues eastward. The well-known +pinnacles (including the 'Crazy' one) are close to Bwlch<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> +Goch, and on the north side of the ridge overlooking Cwm +Glas. The southern side, sloping into Cwm Dyli, though +very steep, is much less precipitous and rocky than the +other.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_070.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_070_s.jpg" width="400" height="335" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">CRIB GOCH + +(Snowdon beyond)</span> +</div> + +<p><i>Starting Points.</i>—Penygwrhyd and Gorphwysfa have +almost a monopoly of Crib Goch, because for all other +places—such as Llanberis, Beddgelert, Capel Curig, or +Bettws y Coed—the distance from Gorphwysfa has simply to +be added as so many extra miles along a highroad. In the +case of Capel Curig this makes very little difference, seeing +that Penygwrhyd lies on the direct route for any ascent of +Snowdon, and to the latter there is no nobler approach than +that along this ridge. Some have thought it sensational, +and many have described its terrors in very sensational +language; in fact, it takes the place which among the +English lakes is filled by the far less striking Striding Edge +on Helvellyn; but in truth, though it is the sort of place +where ice, mist, and high wind may encroach to some +extent on the margin of safety, to a steady head and foot +there is no danger whatever. As for the hands, they are +hardly required at all, though for those who like it plenty of +real climbing can be had on the way.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_072.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_072_s.jpg" width="400" height="534" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">PINNACLES OF CRIB GOCH</span> +</div> + +<p>Any mountaineer worthy of the name will admit that the +ridge walk up Snowdon by Lliwedd and down by Crib Goch +is for its length one of the finest in Europe. The mere +gymnast also finds here plenty of enjoyment and almost +infinite variety. He may mount by the east ridge or by +the north ridge, or in the corner between the two. Again, +the north ridge may be reached by either of two gullies in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span>its eastern flank. Of these two gullies the more southerly +is the steepest and longest, and may be recognised at some +distance by a peculiar split or gap, while the other and more +northerly, formed in rock of most cutting quality, offers a +convenient passage to the foot of the steep part of the north +ridge, from which point there is, if required, an easy descent +into Cwm Glas.</p> + +<p>The north ridge gives a short, pleasant scramble, and is +somewhat sheltered from southerly winds, which are sometimes +an annoyance on the east ridge.</p> + +<p>Further west there are several good gullies on the Cwm +Glas side, especially round about the pinnacles. The +Crazy Pinnacle may be ascended either on the north-east or +on the south-west side. The former is now more favoured +since the fall of a certain large stone on the latter, which +gave a useful hold in former days. Thirty years ago this +ridge was almost unknown. A writer of 1833 seems to +imply that it had been ascended by saying that 'the passage +of it is hazardous, from the shortness and slippery quality of +the grass at those seasons of the year when the mountain +may be approached;' but this is evidently a mere misapplication +of what others had said about Clawdd Goch (Bwlch y +Maen), on the other side of the mountain, and we do not +hear of anyone climbing here before C. A. O. B. (1847) +and F. H. B. a few years later. Between 1865 and 1875 it +became better known, and in the books at Penygwrhyd we +find it recorded that in April 1884 H. and C. S. climbed from +Cwm Dyli, thence along the ridge by Crib y Ddysgl to the +summit of Y Wyddfa.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p> + +<p>In 1887, on June 30, E. K. climbed Crib Goch from +Cwm Glas by the gully to the left of the outstanding or +Crazy Pinnacle. Near the top two big stones are jammed +in, and this compelled him to leave the gully; but on +June 29, 1890, G. S. S. found these stones climbable by the +aid of a crack in the rocks on the left hand. From this +point the ridge can be reached by taking to the rocks on the +right. They are sound, which is more than can be said for +those on the left of the gully a little farther down.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_074.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_074_s.jpg" width="400" height="324" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">PART OF CRIB GOCH</span> +</div> + +<p>On July 31 and August 2 E. K. scrambled up the other<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> +gullies nearer Bwlch Goch, and found them easier than the first, +which is the main one seen from Cwm Glas. He pronounced +these climbs well worth trying, but not fit for beginners.</p> + +<p>On June 17, 1890, W. P. and G. B. B. ascended to Bwlch +Goch, and bearing round the foot of the first pinnacle, +climbed the gully between the first and the second. They +found the holding good, but the rocks by which the gully is +blocked somewhat difficult to pass.</p> + +<p>In 1894, on September 14, W. E. C., S., and B. climbed +Crib Goch to the central cairn from Cwm Glas.</p> + +<p>On December 9, 1894, J. M. A. T., H. H., and H. E. climbed +the face from Cwm Glas beside an insignificant watercourse, +reaching the ridge at the ruined cairn, then, passing along +to the Crazy Pinnacle, scrambled down the gully on the +Llanberis Pass side of it. The latter climb they describe as +short but excellent, and the former as also good. No more +climbs here are described in the <i>Book of Penygwrhyd</i>, but +many others have been made. The truth is that for the +last quarter of a century hardly a climber has visited Wales +without making Crib Goch a primary object, and consequently +there is not a climb on it whereof men say 'See, +this is new.'</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Crib y Ddysgl.</b>—The name is pronounced practically +'Cribbythiskle,' and sometimes written 'Distyl,' a spelling +probably due to a desire to support the common derivation +of the name from 'destillare' i.e. 'dripping ridge.' The +climate of Wales, however, is not such as to make any ridge +remarkable merely because it drips, and moreover the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> +derivation will not account for the other instances of the +word. For instance, two or three miles west of the Pitt's +Head we have Trum y Ddysgyl, and the proximity to it of +Cwmtrwsgyl suggests that some distinction is expressed by +the penultimate syllables. Attempts to derive the name +from 'disgl' (= 'dish') seem equally futile. Possibly the +explanation may be found in the word 'dysgwyl' ('watch,' +'expect') (compare Disgwylfa, in Cardiganshire), which +would make it parallel to names like Lookingstead, &c.</p> + +<p>The highest point of Crib y Ddysgl is called Carnedd +Ugain, and is a worthy rival of Y Wyddfa itself, being, +according to the Ordnance surveyors, only 69 ft. lower—viz. +3,491 ft.—and from some points of view a really beautiful +peak.</p> + +<p>From the highest point a narrow crest runs due east, +reaching in about a quarter of a mile the huge buttress +called Clogwyn y Person, which comes up out of Cwm Glas +and has been described with it. This part is sometimes spoken +of as the Gribin, a name which the large Ordnance map +does not give, and I know of no other authority for it, though +it is quite a likely place to bear the name. The main ridge +continues east until it joins Crib Goch. The ridge, though +sharp, is not a likely place for an accident to a climber, and, +indeed, no accident seems to have occurred actually on +the ridge, but more than one death has taken place close by. +On August 10, 1874, a young man of great promise, Mr. +Frederick Roberts Wilton, son of Mr. Robert Wilton, of +Doncaster,<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 12."> [12] </a> and a master in the City of London School, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span>ascended Snowdon from Llanberis, and seems to have +asked his way to Capel Curig, and to have been informed +(not quite accurately) that he must turn to the right 'near +the spring,' which is a good bit beyond the proper point of +divergence from the Llanberis path. His body was ultimately +found a fortnight later 'in the slippery course of a +small mountain stream which descends sharply from the +most southerly branch of the miners' path immediately +below Crib y Ddysgl into the basin known as Cwm Glas. +Evidently he had gone down a steep shingly slope with a +wall of rock on his right hand over the entrance of a rocky +watercourse.' These details are taken from a letter of his +colleague, Mr. W. G. Rushbrooke. As the body was found +in a posture of repose, and there was no sign of any injury +sufficient to cause death, there is some reason to fear that +this unfortunate gentleman died of exposure. For further +details see the <i>Times</i> for August 22, 24, 26, and 28, 1874.</p> + +<p>Another death from exposure took place here in the +following year—namely, that of Mr. Edward Grindley +Kendall, of Crosby, near Leicester, of whom something will +be said under the head of <i>Cwm Dyli</i>.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Cwm Dyli</b> (pronounced 'Dully') is the great eastern +recess of Snowdon, and universally admitted to be the finest +thing of the kind in Wales. The long sharp ridge of Crib +Goch and Crib y Ddysgl bounds it on the north, while the +almost equally fine, though less regular, ridge and majestic +crags of Lliwedd shut it in on the south. It contains Llyn +Llydaw (Hluddow), the largest lake, and Glaslyn, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> +finest tarn on the whole mountain, and is one reason +why the ascent of Snowdon from Capel Curig is the finest +of all.</p> + +<p>The stream forms some fine cascades (800 ft. above sea +level) in its descent to the Vale of Gwynant. Half a mile +above these cascades Clogwyn Aderyn, on the north bank of +the stream, and Clogwyn Penllechen, between it and Llyn +Teyrn (1,238 ft.), have a climb or two on them. At this llyn +the path from Gorphwysfa comes in, and along it the great +majority of people enter the cwm. The next landmark as +we ascend is Llyn Llydaw (1,416 ft.), nearly a mile long, the +elevation of which so close an observer as Cliffe over-estimated +by more than 1,000 ft. Climbers bound for Lliwedd leave +the lake entirely on the right, and find a foot-bridge close +to the exit of the stream from it. The path to Snowdon +crosses the lake by a stone causeway, which is rarely submerged +by floods. From the head of Llyn Llydaw there is +a steep rise—555 ft. in a quarter of a mile—to the tarn +called Glaslyn (1,971 ft.) Between this and the sky line at +the head of the cwm, 1,290 ft. higher, only one more hollow +remains, called Pantylluchfa, and here the crags of Clogwyn +y Garnedd show up magnificently. It may be mentioned +that many people get hopelessly confused in reading or +giving descriptions of Snowdon, because they fail to distinguish +Glaslyn, here, from Llyn Glas, half a mile to the +north of it, in Cwm Glas, and another Llyn Glas less than a +mile due west in Cwm Clogwyn. If they know Glaslyn +they naturally assume that it must be in Cwm Glas, and if +they know Cwm Glas they place Glaslyn in it. Some of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> +the confusion would be avoided if the latter were called by +what would seem to be its older and true name—Llynffynnonglas.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 576px;"> +<a href="images/i_080.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_080_s.jpg" width="576" height="363" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">SNOWDON FROM GLASLYN + + +a, Bwlch y Snethan. +b, Summit, with Clogwyn y Garnedd below. +c, Junction of paths from Penygwrhyd and Llanberis. + +</span> +</div> + +<p>Cwm Dyli was the scene in 1875 of one of the strangest +of all the disasters which have happened on the mountain. +The victim was Mr. Edward Grindley Kendal, of +Crosby, near Leicester, who on June 11 left Gwynant +Valley in order to ascend Snowdon. Nothing more was +heard of him or his till the end of that month, when a Mr. +and Mrs. David Moseley, descending with a guide, found on +the edge of Llyn Llydaw a wet and mouldy pair of boots, +each containing a stocking marked 'Kendal' and a garter. +It was at once surmised that the missing man had been +wading and become engulfed in quicksands, which were +stated to be numerous. His friends went so far as to employ +a professional diver to explore the bottom of the lake, though +it would seem that if the body was in the water simpler +means would have answered the purpose, and if it was below +the water the diver could neither find it nor follow it. At +any rate he did not find it, because it was not there. It +was found about ten days later on Crib y Ddysgl uninjured—it +was identified by Mr. Ison, brother-in-law of the +deceased and the jury at Llanberis found a verdict of +'death from exposure.' It was not precisely stated on what +part of Crib y Ddysgl the body was found, and nothing transpired +as to the condition of the feet; but it is simply +amazing to anyone familiar with the character of the ground +that a bare-footed man should ever have got so far. Why he +did it and how he did it will always remain among the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span>mysteries of Snowdon.<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 13."> [13] </a> Other deaths have taken place in +this cwm, for which see under <i>Lliwedd</i> and <i>Clogwyn y +Garnedd</i>.</p> + +<p>It is curious that two of the lakes in this valley are +among those mentioned 200 years ago by the learned +Edward Lhwyd as 'distinguished by names scarce intelligible +to the best Criticks in the British.'</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Clogwyn y Garnedd y Wyddfa</b>—i.e. 'the Precipice +under the Cairn of Snowdon'—has been commonly known by +the first three words only for at least 200 years. It is one +of the grandest cliffs on Snowdon, and gives very fine +climbing.</p> + +<p>For more than two centuries this precipice has been +famous as a refuge for rare ferns and plants. The guide +William Williams, well known as a botanist, lost his life +here while in search of the Woodsia; so at least says Mr. T. G. +Bonney, though he is far from accurate in the date of the +accident, which, writing in 1874, he describes as having +taken place 'some twenty years ago.' The actual date was +June 19, 1861.<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 14."> [14] </a> The old guide had taken up a lady and +gentleman from Llanberis, and went from the top alone to +gather ferns. The fall was 'down a declivity of three hundred +yards.' The body was found at the foot of the precipice, +after 'scouts' had been sent out. He had fallen from the +point where the slope suddenly changes from about 45° to, +perhaps, 75° or 80°. The spot where he slipped was for many +years, and perhaps still is, marked by a white stone.</p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span></p> +<p>On the shore of Glaslyn, at the south-west corner, there is +a small cross of wood marking the spot where the body of +Mr. Maxwell Haseler was found. He was making for +Snowdon by the Lliwedd ridge, and fell from a short distance +above Bwlch y Saethau. The party seem to have been well +equipped, and contained members of experience, who were +not without ropes and axes. They started on January 26, +1879, for Snowdon by Lliwedd, and, after lunching about +1 <small>P.M.</small> on Bwlch y Saethau, proceeded in the direction of +Snowdon. Mr. Haseler took a separate course, more to the +right hand, and almost immediately seems to have slipped and +fallen. His body was found next morning by the shore of +Glaslyn, and it was reckoned that he had fallen some 600 or +700 ft. The inquest was held at Penygwrhyd. The victim of +this accident was only twenty-three years old.<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 15."> [15] </a></p> + +<p>The following notes are among the records of Penygwrhyd:—</p> + +<p>On September 23, 1887, W. E. C. and A. E. ascended +Snowdon from Glaslyn by the first gully on Clogwyn y +Garnedd.</p> + +<p>In 1890, on June 20, W. P. and G. B. B. descended from +Snowdon to Haseler's Cross by the gully immediately above +it in Clogwyn y Garnedd.</p> + +<p>In 1890, on September 27, F. W. J. found an excellent +gully climb, possibly that referred to in the note of September +23, 1887. He started from Glaslyn, keeping to the +right edge of the lake, and, facing towards Bwlch y Saethau, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span>saw a gully choked by jammed stones (five in number), +beginning almost from the foot. It has often been climbed. +The most interesting and difficult piece is where a large +stone roofs a cavern some 15 ft. high. In it there is a kind +of skylight, through which the climber must go by an indescribable +twist of the body. From the bottom of the gully +to the huts where the climb ends is 900 ft., all except a +portion of the upper end being narrow gully, and the rest a +scramble over rocks.</p> + +<p>On December 13, 1891, Mrs. H. ascended the big +Clogwyn y Garnedd gully direct to the summit of Snowdon.</p> + +<p>On September 24, 1892, Miss B. and a large party of +gentlemen climbed (second lady's ascent) the Clogwyn y +Garnedd gully through the cavern.</p> + +<p>In May 1893 a party climbed up by this and down by +the next gully, on the north, which has its head just below +the huts.</p> + +<p>In September 1893 the two Misses T. descended the great +gully in 1 hour 25 minutes.</p> + +<p>In 1894, on September 14, Messrs. W. E. C., S., and B. +descended the face of Clogwyn y Garnedd to the left of the +big gully.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a href="images/i_084.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_084_s.jpg" width="600" height="379" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">SNOWDON FROM THE NORTH, WITH LLIWEDD ON THE LEFT</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Lliwedd</b> (2,947 ft.) stretches away eastward from the +summit of Snowdon, dividing Cwm Dyli on the north from +Cwm y Llan on the south. Strictly speaking, perhaps the +name only applies to the central portion, where its magnificent +northern crags overlook the head of Llyn Llydaw, but, +as in the case of Crib Goch, the significance of the name has<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span>been enlarged, and it is frequently used to denote the whole +length of the ridge.</p> + +<p>At the Nant Gwynant end a transverse ridge, called Gallt +y Wenallt, bears near its base some remarkably fine rocks, +on which there is very good climbing. West of the Gallt a +side valley, called Cwm Merch, runs nearly due south, and +beyond this Cwm Lliwedd proper begins. The southern +slope of it is steep, but that to the north is imposingly precipitous. +It is, in fact, unsurpassed in Wales. Advancing +in the direction of Snowdon, the cliffs become less sheer and +the crest less broken, and as soon as the highest point of +Crib Goch is 'on with' the head of Llydaw Bwlch Ciliau +offers a rough descent into Cwm Dyli. Next on the west +comes the Criman, corresponding geographically to Clogwyn +y Person on Ddysgl, but more broken; beyond them Bwlch +y Saethau (i.e. <i>Arrows Gap</i>), leading down to the head of +Glaslyn. The last quarter of a mile up to the top of +Snowdon is very steep, rising nearly 1,000 ft. in that distance. +It was here that Mr. Maxwell Haseler, in 1879, lost his life +by keeping too much to the right.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_086.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_086_s.jpg" width="400" height="297" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">LLIWEDD FROM THE NORTH-WEST.</span> +</div> + +<p>In August 1872 Mr. T. H. Murray Browne and Mr. +W. R. Browne, the discoverers of the Scafell Pinnacle, saw +the merits of this climb, and attacked it without success. +Public attention was first drawn to Lliwedd as a climbing-ground +by the ascent made in 1883 by Messrs. T. W. Wall +and A. H. Stocker, and thus described by the former in the +<i>Alpine Journal</i>:<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 16."> [16] </a>—</p> + +<p>'This northern face consists of four buttresses, with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>three fairly well-defined couloirs between them. The +summit ridge has two peaks, of which the western, nearer +Snowdon, is the higher by a few feet. In January 1882 +from the summit of Crib Goch Mr. A. H. Stocker and +myself were struck by the grand appearance of the +Lliwedd cliffs, and hearing from Owen, the landlord of +the Penygwrhyd Hotel, that the northern face had never +been climbed, the desire to make the first ascent naturally +came upon us. On the 10th we made our first attempt by +the central couloir, which leads up to the depression between +the two summits. As it was raining the whole day the +rocks were in an abominable state, and it was with the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> +greatest difficulty that we managed to get up about 150 ft.' +On January 3, 1883, they tried again. 'On January 4, after +carefully observing the rocks of the buttress to the west of the +central couloir, we came to the conclusion that it might be +possible to cross the face in an upward direction from east to +west, and then strike straight up. At 11.15 <small>A.M.</small> we got on the +rocks, beginning from the lower of two dark green patches +seen from below. From this a ledge runs up to the right, +and if it had only been continuous Lliwedd would present no +very great difficulties. Unfortunately this was not the case; +there were most formidable-looking gaps in it, and the ledges +above and below were tacked on to it by smooth and almost +perpendicular gullies. Three bits in particular may be mentioned +as far the hardest, although they are more or less +typical of these crags, which nowhere offer 20 consecutive +yards of easy rock-work. The first difficulty which presented +itself was where the ledge was broken by a bold face of rock. +One of us was pushed to the top of the smooth part, and +finding that he could not descend to the ledge on the +other side, he ascended a little higher, anchored himself +firmly to the rocks, assisted his companion up, and let him +down to the required ledge; then, throwing the rope over a +pinnacle, he gave both ends to his companion to hold tight, +and slid down the 40 ft. of rope to join him. After a few +yards of easier work we came to a ledge about 6 inches wide +and 4 yards long; the rock above was nearly perpendicular, +with no hand-hold, and there was nothing below. It was the +only way; we could not turn it, and somehow we got over, +but neither of us wishes to be there again. From that ever-to-be-remembered<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span>ledge the climbing was grand work up to the +point where we had to turn from a westerly direction to go +straight up the face. Here there was one nasty corner. A +narrow ledge about 2 inches wide had below it a sloping face +of rock with three minute cracks in it. One of us had +crossed this in safety, and so assumed a position in which +the rope would have been of very little use. He was then +opposed by a steep bit, topped by 4 ft. of perpendicular rock, +with a very steep slope of heather above. At the moment +that his last foot left the highest peg of rock his other knee +slipped, and the heather, grass, and earth began to give way +in his left hand. It was an awkward moment, for the other +man was not well situated for supporting a jerk at the end +of 30 ft. of rope, which would mean a fall of about 50 ft. +Happily the other knee got on the heather and the axe held +firm in the earth. Our difficulties were then over. The +rocks grew less and less difficult as we ascended, and after +4½ hours of incessant work up 850 ft. of rocks we found ourselves +on the summit ridge, exactly 13 yards from the cairn.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 594px;"> +<a href="images/i_088.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_088_s.jpg" width="594" height="354" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">LLIWEDD FROM LLYN LLYDAW + + +a, East buttress. +b, Central gully. +c, West buttress. +d, Slanting gully. + +</span> +</div> + +<p>'It may be mentioned that the only real difficulties lie in +the first 200 ft.; above that point the mountain presents rock-work +of a very high order, but nothing stupendously difficult, +the rock being very firm.</p> + +<p>'Future climbers will probably find that of the three +couloirs the western is comparatively easy; the central may +perhaps be ascended by climbing the lower rocks on the +right, and the eastern by a long détour to the left. The +buttress to the left of the central couloir looks as difficult as +rocks possibly can look. But there is a chance that a careful<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> +search among the rocks to the left of the central couloir +might reward a rock-climber with an exciting and successful +scramble. In any case the whole northern face is distinctly +difficult.'</p> + +<p>Under the date of April 12, 1884, we find recorded by +H. S. and C. S. an ascent of Lliwedd by the ridge from Llyn +Llydaw, which is apparently nothing more than the ordinary +walk, but in 1887, early in April, is an important note in the +hand of Mr. Stocker.</p> + +<p>'<i>Hints for the Ascent of Lliwedd by the North Face.</i></p> + +<blockquote><p>(N.B. Lliwedd consists of two peaks—the eastern and +western buttress—with a well-defined gully running +up between them.)</p></blockquote> + +<blockquote><p>'1. <i>Ascent of Western Buttress to the Right of Central +Gully.</i>—Make for the lower of two green patches easily seen +from below just to the right of the foot of the central gully. +From it work upwards to the right to the second green +patch; then again upwards, still to the right, to a very small, +steep green slope. From this the climb is almost straight +up, inclining a little to the left at first. This will land the +climber a few yards to the west of the cairn.</p> + +<p>'2. <i>Ascent by Central Gully and Western Buttress.</i>—Go +up the gully till the foot of the steep bit is reached; then climb +out of the gully by ledges on the right on to the western +buttress. As soon as possible make straight up the face, +keeping the gully a little to the left. This will land the +climber at the cairn.</p> + +<p>'No. 2 is an easier climb than No. 1. All through the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> +hand and foot hold is very good. The chief difficulties lie +in the first 200 ft. after leaving the gully. The upper part +is fairly easy. The whole climb is about 850 ft.'</p></blockquote> + +<p>In 1887, April 11, O. E. and T. V. S. ascended Lliwedd by +the central gully at first and afterwards in a line rather left +of the summit. Time, under 3½ hours.</p> + +<p>In September 1887 W. E. C. and A. E. climbed Lliwedd +by Mr. Stocker's second route in 1 hour 23 minutes from +base to cairn, and subjoined a list of previous ascents, viz.—</p> + +<p> +First attempt. T. H. M. B. and W. R. B., August 1872 (Vis. Bk.)<br /> +January 7, 1883, Messrs. Stocker and Wall, by route 1.<br /> +April 24, 1884, Messrs. A. H. S. and P., by route 2.<br /> +April 11, 1887, Messrs. O. E. and T. V. S., by route 2.<br /> +September 10, 1887, Mr. R. W., by route 1.<br /> +September 20, 1887, Messrs. W. E. C. and A. E., by route 2.<br /> +</p> + +<p>On May 20, 1888, Mr. Alfred Evans and two friends, +W. E. C. and — K., left Penygwrhyd at 10 <small>A.M.</small>, crossed the +northern arête of Crib Goch and Cwm Glas, and climbed +Clogwyn Person and by Crib y Ddysgl to the top of Snowdon. +Evans and K. then descended by the second or third gully +from Bwlch Glas on Clogwyn y Garnedd to the head of Llyn +Llydaw. C., E., and K. started up the central gully of +Lliwedd at 5.5 <small>P.M.</small> At the bottom, and for some distance +up, the rocks are water-worn and but little broken up, and +the water flowing down rendered this part difficult. At the +moment when C. was about 300 ft. above the scree Evans was +about 80 ft. below him, and could not advance. C., therefore, +went down 3 or 4 ft. and rested. Evans then tried to +get out of the gully by the ledge mentioned in Mr. Stocker's<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> +account. This ledge is divided in two parts by a huge outstanding +buttress with very scanty footing. Both men passed +this; then Evans lowered himself by K.'s ankle on to a rocky +foothold and tried to work to the right, but after doing 5 or +6 ft.—half the requisite distance—his feet slipped, his arms +were unable to support him, and he fell on his feet about +5 yards on to the edge of a steeply sloping grass ledge running +up to this part of the cliff. From this point in four or five +terrible leaps he fell over and over, a total distance of 200 ft., +to the screes below. The accident happened at 6.55 <small>P.M.</small>, +and K. is stated to have descended to the body, a distance +of 200 ft. of the most awkward climbing in the whole gully, +in the space of 5 minutes. This is hardly credible, but under +such circumstances people do not judge time accurately.</p> + +<p>This accident need never have happened. If ever a party +courted disaster it was done on this occasion.</p> + +<p>A cross was erected by friends of Mr. Evans on the spot +where his body was found, but being much damaged by +stones it had to be removed in 1892 to a rocky knoll not far +off, where its position is more secure. It records the age of +Mr. Evans as 24.</p> + +<p>On June 10, 1889, M., A. L. M., and B. climbed the north +face of Lliwedd by the rocks of the western buttress, keeping +close to the central gully almost the whole of the way.</p> + +<p>On January 1, 1893, F. P., F. W. O., and H. J. R. ascended +the north face of Lliwedd by the western buttress, starting +just to the right of the central gully, and coming up at the +cairn. Time, 3 hours.</p> + +<p>At Easter 1893 H. G. G. and — W. climbed by the central<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> +gully and the western buttress, coming out at the cairn, in +3 hours 5 minutes, all the rocks being dry.</p> + +<p>On April 7, 1893, T. H. M. climbed the north-west face +alone in 2½ hours: he found two difficult spots near where +Messrs. G. and W. scratched their initials on the rocks. +Everything was dry.</p> + +<p>On September 14, 1894, W. E. C. and M. K. S. ascended +the central gully for about 200 ft., then went up the western +buttress, and crossed the gully again to the eastern buttress, +about 300 ft. below the top, reaching the summit in 2 hours +and 20 minutes.</p> + +<p>On October 14, 1894, J. M. A. T., H. H., and H. E. +ascended the central gully to a point apparently beyond that +where others have broken out upon the face, and continued +up a steep stretch of rock by taking a narrow gutter between +the centre and right wall, the upper part being found difficult. +A broad ledge brought them to a similar reach, where +the outward slope of the holds became more and more pronounced. +Finding the rocks above quite impassable, the +party descended by means of an iron claw, which had to be +left, and then by a ledge in the right wall and an awkward +corner got out on the face of the west buttress. Here they +found the ledges narrow and the crags extremely steep, but +working upwards and tending to the right they crossed an +incipient gully by an awkward stride, and thereafter met +with only ordinary difficulties, but on passing a cleft which +opens into the gully enjoyed a magnificent view of the latter, +and struck the summit at the cairn. They pronounced the +climb to be quite impossible for one man.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span></p> + +<p><i>The Slanting Gully.</i>—This gully, on the west side of the +western buttress, is easily identified, being the next one to +the west of the great central gully and a striking feature of +the north face of Lliwedd. It is clearly marked all the way +up, and is most readily approached by crossing diagonally +up the screes below the great gully and then skirting the +base of the rocks of the western buttress. This gully was +attacked on January 9, 1894, by Messrs. F. O. W., C. W. N., +E. H. K., and H. K. It was then frozen up and covered +with snow to a depth varying from a few inches to 3 ft. +In 4 hours an estimated height of 350 or 400 ft. above the +starting-point was attained, the whole of this distance, with +the exception of a few steps in deep snow, having to be +climbed. The party kept in the gully the whole way, usually +close against the rocks on the western side. Progress was +finally arrested at a point where the gully becomes, for some +distance, a mere crack, formed by the western rocks overhanging +an almost smooth slab, where hold for hand or foot +seems almost entirely wanting. With longer time at disposal +it seemed possible that this difficulty might have been +surmounted by wriggling up inside the crack, or by a +dangerous scramble on the face of the slab. Two members +of the party were provided with crampons, and derived +great steadiness and safety from their use. The uniformly +steep angle at which this gully lies may be gathered from +the fact that a rücksack dropped from the highest point was +picked up at the starting-point on the return. It was the +opinion of most of the party that the condition of the snow +and rocks was, on the whole, favourable for climbing, as the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> +ice and snow gave some assistance in places which without +them might have been still more difficult.</p> + +<p>The next attempt is valuable, as notes were taken on the +heights of some of the obstacles.</p> + +<p>On March 26, 1894, the gully was attacked by J. C. M., +O. M., and W. P. from the screes (2,300 ft.) at 1.55 <small>P.M.</small> They +arrived in the cave (2,690 ft.) at 5 <small>P.M.</small> They considered the +conditions favourable, except that the snow was melting, but +found the climbing difficult all the way. At about 2,500 ft. +a chimney 70 ft. high had to be squirmed up. They were of +opinion that the gully could not be climbed direct, and all +their efforts to break out on either side were frustrated. +The climbing does not, as in the central gully, become more +easy as progress is made; on the contrary, the difficulties +increase. The party carried two ropes, one of 50 ft. and one +of 80 ft., and at one place had to use the full length of both +together. The descent took 2 hours.</p> + +<p>On Thursday, August 30, 1894, this gully cost a valuable +life. Mr. J. Mitchell, of Oxford, an assistant editor of the +<i>New Historical English Dictionary</i>, started from the foot +at about 2 <small>P.M.</small> The first pitch was quickly ascended, and he +then proceeded, apparently without difficulty, to the foot of +the long chimney, which he passed by means of the face. +On reaching the top he waved his handkerchief, and, being +asked what it was like, replied that it was very stiff. Not long +after he was seen in a cave, which the lookers-on (probably in +error) identified with the highest point reached by previous +climbers. From this he climbed with great difficulty to the +top, as it appeared from below, of a long chasm, with his head<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> +just below an overhanging rock, upwards of 150 ft. above the +cave, and after more than half an hour of fruitless endeavour +to make further progress he fell at 4.30 <small>P.M.</small>, and was killed +on the spot. The body was found at the above-mentioned +cave, and was brought down by four quarrymen at great +personal risk. The lesson which should be drawn from this +is, that if a man will insist on climbing alone he should not +choose for his attack climbs which parties of greater skill +and experience than his own have found to be beyond their +powers.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Cwm y Llan.</b>—This large cwm stretches away from +Snowdon top to the south-east between Yr Aran and Lliwedd. +The scenery consists mainly of the South Snowdon Slate +Works, which occupy the centre of the valley, at a height of +about 1,100 ft., and of Sir Edward Watkin's road up +Snowdon.</p> + +<p>There is very little climbing, though some parts of Geuallt +and Aran are very steep. On the Lliwedd side there is a +good rock (Craig Ddu), not far from the slate works, and +others rather smaller near the exit of the valley, while at the +head, near Bwlch y Maen, almost under Snowdon and near +Bwlch y Saethau, some difficult passages occur.</p> + +<p>The slate quarry here must not be confused with 'Cwm +y Llan slate quarry,' which is not in this valley at all, but on +the western slope of Aran, about a third of a mile beyond +Bwlch Cwm y Llan. This little pass (about 1,700 ft.) is very +useful to anyone who, after a climb on Lliwedd, wishes to +reach the nearest railway station, for Pont Rhyd-ddu is very<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> +much nearer than Llanberis and can be reached without +climbing over Snowdon summit. From the top of Lliwedd +the pass is in full view, and a stone wall is seen stretching +half-way from it towards two little reservoirs which are +some 600 yards higher up the valley than the slate works. +It is a mile and a half from Lliwedd by way of these +reservoirs to the top of the bwlch, which will hardly be +reached within half an hour. From the bwlch a fair path +on the right bank of the stream leads towards Llynygader, +and soon crosses the path from Snowdon to Beddgelert. By +keeping round the hill to the right the Carnarvon highroad +(which is easily seen from above) is gradually neared. The +distance from the bwlch direct to the station may be +covered in three-quarters of an hour, making in all 1¼ hour +from Lliwedd, as compared with at least 2½ hours which +would be required to reach Llanberis from the same point.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Cwm Creigiog</b> is a shallow and unimportant hollow on +the south-west side of Snowdon, lying between Aran and the +ordinary Beddgelert path to the summit. The cwm has no +attractions for a climber, yet at least one life has been lost +in it. This was in the winter of 1859, when a Mr. Cox is +said to have ascended Snowdon from Llanberis, and to +have become exhausted on the way down to Beddgelert, +between Llechog and the farm called Fridduchaf. His +foolish guide left him alone and went in search of food, +with the result, which in such cases usually follows, of +finding his unfortunate employer dead on his return. The +spot is marked by a heap of stones. Mr. Baddeley says it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> +'marks the spot where a tourist lost his life from exhaustion +in 1874'—perhaps a mistake arising out of a death of the +same kind in that year on quite another part of the mountain.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Clogwyndur Arddu</b> ('Black Precipice') is the magnificent +ridge which divides Cwm Clogwyn on the south +from Cwm Brwynog on the north, being the western buttress +of Y Wyddfa, or more strictly of Carnedd Ugain. The +ascent from the Snowdon Ranger traverses nearly the whole +length of the ridge, which broadens out at its western end +into Moel y Cynghorion, beyond which again is the low pass +of Bwlch Maes y Cwm (1,100 ft.), giving an easy passage from +Llanberis to Snowdon Ranger and Beddgelert. The cliffs +on the north side of the ridge are grand, and have been concerned +in more than one fatal accident. In 1846 the Rev. +Henry Wellington Starr, B.A., of Magdalen Hall, Oxford, +eldest son of Mr. George Starr, of Hilperton, Wiltshire, and +then a curate in Northampton, left Dolbadarn Inn on +September 6 to ascend Snowdon. He failed to return, and +on inquiry being made by his friends people came forward +with evidence which seemed to show that he had reached +the top of Snowdon, then descended to Gorphwysfa, crossed +the head of Llanberis Pass, and ascended Glyder Fawr. At +that point a guide professed to have met him, and brought +him about half-way down, particularly noting that he wore +a single glove, corresponding exactly to another which he +had left with his luggage at the hotel. Search was made in +every direction, but it was not till the beginning of June in +the following year that any light was thrown on the mystery.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> +On that day some of the clothes were found accidentally by +William Hughes, a huntsman, who was exercising his dogs, +apparently on Moel Cynghorion, and next day, on further +search being made, the skeleton was discovered buried under +gravel. His purse and chain were found, but his watch and +ring were gone. It appears from the evidence of Griffith +Ellis, of Llanberis, who found part of the remains, that the +deceased had fallen over the cliff of Clogwyn Coch, on Moel +Cynghorion, while ascending from Llyn Cwellyn—that is, +by the 'Snowdon Ranger' route.<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 17."> [17] </a></p> + +<p>In 1859 a fatal accident took place near the eastern end +of the ridge. The victim, George Henry Frodsham, a clerk +in Liverpool, described as a young man of very fine physique, +arrived at Llanberis on Saturday, August 13, accompanied +by his cousin, F. A. Nicholson, and four friends, T. Clayhills, +J. Snape, J. Goodiear, and A. Gardner. It was midnight, +but they started off at once for Snowdon. They got as far +as the 'half-way house,' where the proper path turns left, +and up towards Cyrn Las; they, however, took the right-hand +fork, which leads to the old copper level above Llyn +du'r Arddu. Struggling up the rocks from the mine, Frodsham, +encumbered by an umbrella and a bag, and being, +moreover, in the dark, slipped and fell, unknown to his +friends, who returned to the proper path and gained the +summit. His cousin is said to have searched for him continuously +from 4 <small>A.M.</small> on Sunday to 9 <small>P.M.</small> on Monday. At +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span>6 <small>A.M.</small> on Tuesday the body was found by W. Owen; the +skull was fractured both at the top and at the back, and the +bag and umbrella were found 200 yards higher up, indicating +that distance as the extent of his fall. A sapient jury +drew from this sad event the moral that a guide should be +employed as a safeguard against sudden mists; but few men +need fear mists less than those who choose to climb when it +is pitch dark. It may be said that this party neglected no +precaution which is likely to ensure a fatal accident—inexperience, +fatigue, darkness, difficult rocks, the burden of bags +and umbrellas.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Llechog</b> (i.e. 'Flat, Slabby Place').—There are two +ridges of this name on Snowdon; one is traversed by the +ordinary route from Beddgelert and that from Rhyd-ddu, +and is precipitous on its curving north front; the other +forms the western wall of Cwm Glas Bach, and is traversed +for some distance by the pony path from Llanberis. Towards +the Llanberis Pass road it presents a fine rocky +ridge, very steep and lofty, on which good climbing may +here and there be found.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Moel Eilio</b> (2,382 ft.), less than three miles south-west +of Llanberis station, has a namesake on the west side of the +river Conway, not far from Llanrwst. The name is sometimes +spelt Aeliau. The view from the top is extremely +fine; the ascent is easy, and, as there is a railway on each +side of it, access to the foot of it is very simple. The rockiest +side is towards the east. Early in the century a poor little +fellow named Closs, while trying to follow his mother from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> +Bettws Garmon to Llanberis, was lost on this mountain. +The story is told by H. L. Jones (1829) in his finely illustrated +book, and by Wright (1833) and Bennett (1838). The +last-named gives his epitaph.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Garnedd Goch Range.</b>—<b>Garnedd Goch</b> (2,315 ft.) +(i.e. 'The Red Cairns') is a very rugged and unfrequented +range of hills lying to the west of Beddgelert. The huge +Nantlle slate quarries on the north side of it have spoilt +some very pretty scenery and some very pretty climbs. +Beddgelert and Snowdon Ranger are good starting-points, +and better still is Penygroes station, on the line from Portmadoc +to Carnarvon.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Moel Hebog</b> ('Hawk Hill,' 2,578 ft.) seems to have +been ascended last century by Lord Lyttelton, by the +Ordnance surveyors, and in August 1857 by Mr. J. H. +Cliffe, who in his book (published 1860) gives a clear description +of his ascent. In his opinion one of the cairns on +the summit was then 'very ancient.'</p> + +<p>It is essentially a Beddgelert mountain, but can be conveniently +taken from many other places at the cost of more +time, as, for instance, from Snowdon Ranger on the north, +Tremadoc and Criccieth on the south, and Brynkir station +on the west.</p> + +<p>A man in the pink of condition who knows the way well +can get to the top from Beddgelert in about three-quarters +of an hour, but most people take 1½ or 2 hours. The horizontal +distance is under 2 miles, nearly the same as that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> +from Wastdale Head to Scafell Pike; but the vertical height +is less by one-quarter.</p> + +<p>The proper route is very simple. A shoulder runs down +north-west on to the Carnarvon road, and the ridge of it, +after being reached by proceeding due west from Beddgelert, +is followed straight to the top. This shoulder may, of course, +be used by those who approach from the Snowdon Ranger, +but for them a better plan is to take, about ¼ mile after +passing the Pitt's Head, a road which continues on the +right bank of the stream to Glan y Gors, a few yards beyond +which a turning on the right leads across a side stream +and past the farm of Hafod Ryffydd to the foot of Cwm +Meillionen, and, by following either the cwm or the ridge +on the left hand, the top of Moel Hebog is easily reached.</p> + +<p>The routes from Tremadoc, Criccieth, and Brynkir all +take the dull side of the mountain; but this disadvantage +is counterbalanced by the increased effect which this gives +to the view of Snowdon on reaching the top, and to the +peep down into the valley of Beddgelert, below. The most +difficult way to hit off is that from Nantlle, but in point +of rock scenery it is the finest of all, and was chosen +by the Alpine Club for their excursion when they met here +in 1883.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Mynydd Mawr</b> (i.e. 'Great Mountain') rises just opposite +to and west of the Snowdon Ranger Inn.</p> + +<p>The noble crag Castell Cidwm (i.e. castle of the wolf or +robber) runs steeply down to Llyn Cwellyn, and well deserves +a visit. Borrow, on seeing it from the south, was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> +reminded of Gibraltar. Craig y Bera also, which overhangs +Drws y Coed, is part of this mountain, and has some very +striking rock scenery.</p> + + +<p>Denbigh.</p> + +<p>This county has little climbing. A few rocks near Bettws +y Coed offer short climbs, which are more satisfactory than +the limestone rocks of Orme's Head, near Llandudno, or of +the Eglwyseg cliffs, near Llangollen; but we find in <b>Dinas +Bran</b>, close by, an extremely steep, castle-crowned hill, and +much favoured by picnickers. It seems, however, to have +been the scene of some early climbing, made too, quite properly, +with the rope.</p> + +<p>Leland says, 'Ther bredith in the Rok Side that the +Castelle stondith on every yere an Egle. And the Egle doth +sorely assaut hym that distroith the Nest goyng down in +one Basket and having a nother over his Hedde to defend +the sore Stripe of the Egle.'</p> + +<p>Under such circumstances a climber ought to find St. +Paul a better patron saint than St. Martin.</p> + + +<p>Montgomeryshire.</p> + +<p><b>Berwyn Mountains.</b>—The name is said to signify +'White Tops' (Bera-gwen). The range runs parallel to the +river Dee, forming its south bank for many miles. It is +not lofty, Moel Sych (2,716 ft.) and Cader Fronwen +(2,573 ft.) being the highest points. The individual hills +are not of striking form, and are really little more than +high heathery moors, on which large numbers of grouse +breed, but there are many points on the south-east side<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> +where small but striking rocks are found, chiefly about +the heads of cwms hollowed out of the 'Llandeilo' and +'Bala' strata. These cwms are occasionally visited for the +sake of the waterfalls, two or three of which are exceedingly +fine.</p> + +<p>The rocks at Llangynog would be remarkably good if +they had not fallen a prey to the spoilers in the form of +quarrymen.</p> + + +<p>Merionethshire.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Merioneth mountains and shire Cardigan<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To travel over will tire horse and man,<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>says Taylor, the Water Poet, and, indeed, as a climbing +county it is only second to Carnarvon, and contains such +fine mountains as Cader Idris, the Arans, and the Rhinogs. +The climbing capital is Dolgelly, though the excellent +service of the Cambrian Railway makes it easy to scale +almost any mountain from almost any place in the county. +The reason of this is that all the places of resort are near +the coast, and the mountains are not far inland, so that the +railway following the coast puts them all in communication +with each other, and it is almost equally convenient to stay +at Barmouth, Harlech, Towyn, Aberdovey, or Machynlleth. +Indeed, this is almost the only county where railways are +cheerfully accepted by the mountaineer as friends and not +as enemies. He does not love them at Bettws y Coed, he +loathes them at Llanberis, but here they are unobtrusive and +at the same time supremely useful.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Aberglaslyn.</b>—Through this beautiful defile lies the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> +only correct approach to Snowdon. It is a true mountain +scene, somehow suggesting Scotland rather than Wales, and +of such beauty that, according to the story, three Cambridge +dons, who went round Wales criticising nature and deducting +marks for every defect, unanimously awarded full marks +to this. There is fairly good practice climbing on both sides +of it, but not very steep, in spite of the fears of some of the +early travellers, who (like Hutton in 1803) thought the +sides would close before they got through, and reached +Beddgelert with a sense of relief.</p> + +<p>It was one of the earliest scenes in Wales which the taste +of last century admitted to be picturesque. Sandby's view +was taken about 120 years ago.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Cnicht</b> or <b>Cynicht</b> (2,265 ft.), <b>Moel Wyn</b> (2,529 ft.)—Mr. +J. H. Cliffe ascended the former on September 4, 1857, +and declared that he could only hear of one man who had +preceded him (the climbing clergyman).</p> + +<p>Under certain aspects and conditions it is one of the +most striking mountains in Wales, owing to its sharp, conical +form, but it bears very little really good rock.</p> + +<p>Beddgelert is the best place from which to ascend, and if +the old and higher road to Maentwrog be taken to ¼ mile +short of the tramway in Cwm Croesor, a ridge on the left +hand can be followed right up to the peak without fear of +mistake.</p> + +<p>If the ascent of Moel Wyn be included it adds less than an +hour to the time taken by the last expedition. On the other +hand, if Moel Wyn is ascended from Tanygrisiau, on the +Ffestiniog line, it is equally easy to take in Cynicht.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Rhinog Fawr</b> (2,362 ft.—just north of Rhinog Fach) +is one of the most striking of the rocky hills which rise +behind Harlech. It is more visited than would otherwise be +the case because the pretty lake of Cwm Bychan and the +famous pass of Bwlch Drws Ardudwy, both places of considerable +resort, lie at its feet, one on either side. It is one +of the barest and most rocky mountains in all Wales, and +yet it has hardly anywhere on it a crag of respectable height. +Little nameless problems, however, abound, and men who +are content to enjoy a day's promiscuous scrambling, without +accomplishing any notorious climb about which they will +afterwards be able to boast, may be recommended to ramble +over Rhinog Fawr.</p> + +<p><i>Easy Ascents.</i>—Several stations on the Cambrian line are +convenient for the start, especially Harlech and Llanbedr. +Vehicles can be got in summer to take visitors to near Cwm +Bychan (about 5 miles), from the east end of which to reach +the top of the mountain requires a long hour, by way of the +lakelet of Gloywlyn and up the western slope of the mountain. +From Dolgelly the way is not so easy to find. Bwlch +Drws Ardudwy, the pass between the two Rhinogs, is the +first place to make for, and for this the best plan is to go by +the Precipice Walk or by the Trawsfynydd highroad to the +Camlan stream, which comes in on the left half a mile or +more beyond Tynygroes Inn. A path follows the stream for +nearly 3 miles to a slate quarry, which can also be reached +rather more quickly by crossing the bridge at Penmaenpool, +especially if the train be used as far as that station. Half a +mile up the stream beyond the quarry the course leaves the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> +brook and strikes away north-north-west round Rhinog Fach, +rising as little as may be, so as to join the track up Bwlch +Drws Ardudwy. From the head of the pass, rugged as it +looks, a way may be picked northward to the east slope of +the summit, but many people prefer to descend to the west +a long way, so as to strike the easier south-western shoulder. +A yet simpler route than the last, but, as involving 3 miles +more of the hateful Trawsfynydd road, intolerable unless a +carriage be taken, turns out of the route to the left half a +mile beyond the ninth milestone, and makes for the north +side of Rhinog Fawr. The path for nearly 3 miles is that +which leads to Bwlch Drws Ardudwy, and is quitted just +after passing through a wall. The stream on the right hand +is now followed up to the pool at its head, until a turn to the +left and south brings the pedestrian up on to the summit. +This route may also be used from Trawsfynydd (where the +Great Western have a station very useful for Ffestiniog on +one side and Bala on the other), and there is no better place +to start from if climbing is wanted, for of that there is plenty +to be found in Craig Ddrwg, the ridge which stretches away +to the north. In winter this range is very fine, but as stern +and desolate as it is possible to imagine anything. The +writer has reason to remember that here, in January 1895, +he experienced the most intense cold that he has met with +in Great Britain.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Arenig Fawr</b> (2,800 ft.) is called 'Rennig' by Daines +Barrington, who, writing in 1771, adds that it 'is commonly +considered as the fifth mountain of North Wales in point of +height.'<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span></p> + +<p>The ascent from Arenig station, on the Great Western +Railway, between Bala and Ffestiniog, is very easy, as the +rise is only 1,700 ft., and the distance about 1¾ mile. +The usual and most expeditious way of making the ascent +is by proceeding westward from the station for ¼ mile to +the farm of Milltergerrig, but for scenery and for climbing +an opposite direction should be taken for nearly a mile, till +the stream is struck which issues from Llyn Arenig, really a +very fine tarn and backed by most respectable cliffs. Further +south than the tarn again good rocks will be found. The +usual, and indeed the proper, way of dealing with this mountain +is to traverse it from north to south, ending up at +Llanuwchllyn station, on the Great Western line from Bala to +Dolgelly. The eastward view is extremely fine, and superior +by far to that from many of the highest points in Wales.</p> + +<p>This was one of our earliest mountain meteorological +stations, as it was here that the Hon. Daines Barrington +conducted his experiments on rainfall in 1771.<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 18."> [18] </a></p> + +<p>Its height, too, was measured, as Pennant (1781) tells us, +by Mr. Meredith Hughes, a surveyor of Bala.</p> + +<p>One of the ancient Welsh writers mentions this mountain +in a most contemptuous manner. Borrow alludes to this, and +remarks that upon him, on the contrary, none of all the hills +which he saw in Wales made a greater impression.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>The Arans.</b>—This mountain is the highest in Merionethshire, +and by many wrongly considered the second highest +in Wales. It lies between the Berwyns and Cader Idris.</p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span></p> +<p>Like the latter, it is of volcanic trap rock, heavily speckled +in parts with quartz, and exposed on the east side, where it +has been subjected to much weathering. There is a good +deal of old <i>débris</i> from the face, that is now grass-covered.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_109.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_109_s.jpg" width="400" height="450" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +</div> + +<p>The road between the Aran and the outlying hills of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> +Berwyn is over 1,900 ft. high; we have, however, to descend +to 860 ft. in passing from the Aran to Cader Idris. The +main ridge runs almost exactly north and south for 6 miles, +its west side—a large tract of marshy moorland—sloping +down gently to the vales of Dyfrdwy (= the goddess's water; +sometimes called the Little Dee) and Wnion, and its east side, +irregularly escarped, falling for the most part very rapidly +for the first thousand feet. Its ridge culminates in two peaks +1½ mile apart, Aran Benllyn (2,902 ft.) and Aran Fawddwy +(2,970 ft.) The word <i>Aran</i> means an 'alp,' or a 'high place;' +<i>Mawdd</i> is said to mean 'spreading,' and the terminations +<i>ach</i> or <i>wy</i> mean 'water.'</p> + +<p><i>Aran Benllyn</i> was one of several of which the height was +measured in Pennant's time by 'the ingenious Mr. Meredith +Hughes, of Bala,' who made it out to be 30 yards less than +Cader Idris.</p> + +<p>In April 1881 the Alpine Club had one of their informal +meetings at Bala, and chose the east front of the Aran as +their route from there to Dolgelly.</p> + +<p>The ordinary ascents of the Aran are effected from +Llanuwchllyn in 2 hours, from Drws y Nant in 1¼ hour, and +from Dinas Mawddwy in about 3 hours.</p> + +<p><i>Rock Climbs.</i>—These are never extensive, though there +are many little pieces that require much ingenuity to surmount. +Excepting for a few boulder climbs on the ridge +itself the crag work is confined to the east face of the +mountains, the side overlooking Lliwbran and Craiglyn Dyfi. +Climbers are often asked, where can a man start practising +rock work? The Arans are first-rate for this. Whatever the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> +difficulty on the mountain a few minutes' traversing will +generally take one out of it, if direct ascent or descent be considered +undesirable. The mountain face is so broken up that +we have no gullies or arêtes separated by impossible walls of +rock from the easy parts of the mountain. In short, from the +enthusiastic shin-scraper's point of view the architecture of +the Aran face is defective.</p> + +<p>(<i>a</i>) <i>From Lliwbran.</i>—The rocks rising from Lliwbran +are columnar in structure, and by the time a generation of +climbers have torn away the grass from the holds they will +show up plenty of neat little problems from 50 to 100 ft. +high.</p> + +<p>Looking up from the lake the crag, which is a high +dependence of Aran Benllyn, shows on the right an almost +unrelieved slabbiness at an easy angle, which gives good +practice in small footholds. Up to the centre of the crag is +a steep grass gully, in a line with a large boulder down near +the lake, with an overhanging wall that blocks the direct +ascent of the gully, and with a fine clean-cut buttress on the +left. We may creep up the corner of the wall on the left, or +circumvent it by traversing round to the right.</p> + +<p>The route to the ridge from the big boulder is easiest +up an oblique gully just invisible from it. Between our +crag and the summit of the Benllyn is an easy walk due east +down to the green shoulder south of Lliwbran, that takes us +quickly by Nant y Barcud and Cwm Croes to the Twrch +valley and the main road. This descent to Llannwchllyn, +though not direct, recommends itself in wet or misty +weather, and is in any case worth taking as a variant. Aran<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> +Benllyn itself offers nothing on its broken escarpments; +though the face shows up rather well in profile from a +distance, the climber need scarcely use his hands in zigzagging +up the face to the cairn. The view from the summit +justifies our traversing the peak on the way to Aran +Fawddwy. It includes the length of Bala lake and a goodly +extent of Llyn Fyrnwy, and the outline of Aran Fawddwy +shows up magnificently.</p> + +<p>Passing along the ridge to the south of Benllyn we keep +up at a high level for the whole distance of 1½ mile to Aran +Fawddwy, the greatest depression being less than 250 ft. +below Benllyn. If we bear to the left, just dipping below +the ridge, we pass along the foot of an overhanging mass of +rock of considerable length that is undercut in a remarkable +fashion. There are many places along it where one may +shelter comfortably in bad weather. It is difficult to climb +up the rock direct, but towards its south extremity we may +work up into a small cave and climb out by the left on to the +ridge again.</p> + +<p>Five minutes then bring us to a fine cairn that marks +an easy descent to Craiglyn Dyfi, the source of the Dyfi +river, with a good view of the best rocks on Aran Fawddwy. +The final ascent of this peak begins after a few feet of +descent to a wall that crosses the ridge at its lowest.</p> + +<p>(<i>b</i>) <i>On Craiglyn Dyfi.</i>—A small terrace at about the +level of the wall just referred to leads round the rocks to +the left into a large scree gully, which offers good sport in +snowy weather. Half-way along this terrace is a 'problem' +of unusual severity—a narrow crack in an overhanging face,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> +with very scanty hand-holds where the crack closes, some +20 ft. up the face. The pleasantest bit of scrambling is on +to the summit of Aran Fawddwy from the lake, by the arête +that is seen in outline from the large cairn on the ridge, +from which point the two vertical portions of the arête are +well marked. It can be reached easily from the lake, or +we may descend from the cairn for some 600 ft., and then +traverse across to the south till a small gully is passed that +shows a cave pitch at its lower extremity. The rock arête +forms the south side of this gully and runs up for 400 ft. It +reminds us of the easy climb up Tryfaen from the Glyder +side, though in one or two places we have difficulties here, +whereas there are none on the Tryfaen scramble.</p> + +<p>It begins below the level of the cave, and after passing +over rough rocks at an easy angle we come to a fine wall +with a wide crack up it on the left. A huge splintered +block is fixed in the lower part of the crack, and we may +surmount the block and just squeeze in, passing out on to +the roof. There are one or two variations possible here. +In fact, instead of starting on the arête we might pass up +the gully to the cave. It has mossy walls and a dripping +interior. It is marked by a small pile of stones on the +right and a well-bleached sheep's skeleton in the gully just +above. The pitch may be taken on the left by steep wet +grass, which is unpleasant, or we can attack it direct. We +go well inside, and with back to the right we find good +holds on the left, thus working up until the roof itself offers +hold for both hands. From here it is best to pass on to the +arête a few feet below the crack above described.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span></p> + +<p>The way is then easy, but interesting, and leads to a +straight-up crack in a wall in front of us that has to be +negotiated. It looks severe, but the surface of the rock is +so rough that no real trouble is experienced with it. The +crack is much more formidable to descend. Shortly after +this we find ourselves out on the open face again, the gully +on the left having disappeared, and only a few crags above +us marking the summit of the mountain. Striking directly +upwards we reach the top in a quarter of an hour, the last +25 ft. being, if we choose, by way of a chimney, that begins +with some difficulty and lands us just to the left of the large +cairn that marks the highest point.</p> + +<p>(<i>c</i>) <i>By Llaithnant.</i>—Passing due south of the Aran +Fawddwy cairn, along the route to Dinas, we see a fine rock +in front between us and the near end of the Dyrysgol ridge, +forming the head of Llaithnant. It is marked by an overhanging +rock half-way down the left-hand ridge. A steep +and wet scree gully leads down to the valley, and we may +go part of the way down until we are about 100 ft. below +the overhanging block.</p> + +<p>Here we can strike across to the arête, and keeping +close to the gully on our right have 250 ft. of fairly good +scrambling. We skirt close under the big boulder, and +passing to the right of it (a traverse can also be managed +on the left, lower down) clamber over rather loose rock to +the grass terrace above the pitch. Then good rock follows, +and bearing towards the right we come in sight of a square-walled +chimney overlooking the main gully, marked by +small cairns at top and bottom. Its holds are all on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> +left, so we back up on the right and find ourselves close to +the main ridge again. Another chimney still further to the +right might be taken, but it is always very wet; the two +pitches in it are both very small, and it is only interesting +when ice is about.</p> + +<p>A grass gully separates our arête from a few rocks nearer +Dyrysgol, which are of basaltic character and rather interesting +to descend.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Cader Idris.</b>—The name ('Chair of Idris') includes the +whole mountain range, some 7 miles long, that separates the +Mawddach from the Dysynni. It is a continuation of the +outcrop of volcanic trap rock that stretches from the Arans +down to Cardigan Bay, and, as usual with such mountains, +its volcanic origin has had much to do with its grand +scenery.</p> + +<p>The range runs in an E.N.E. direction from the sea +south of Barmouth, and reaches its greatest elevation at +Pen y Gader (2,929 ft.) It forms two other noteworthy +peaks on the chain, Tyrran Mawr (2,600 ft.), 2 miles to the +south-west, and Mynydd Moel (2,800 ft.), 1½ mile to the +north-east.</p> + +<p>The north side presents a fairly even front of precipitous +rock for 3½ miles. Near the highest point, however, a huge +amphitheatre of rock, a thousand feet in height, suggesting +a volcanic crater half fallen away, breaks the continuity of +the ridge, and contributes the finest bit of mountain scenery +that this side of Cader can offer. Probably this hollow suggested +first the name of 'Cader,' though there is a recess on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> +the summit ridge that is usually taken to be the seat in +question.</p> + +<p>But the mountain can show something even better on +the south side. Its high dependency Mynydd Pencoed joins +the main ridge almost at the summit of Pen y Gader, and +its extremity Craig y Cae forms with Cader itself another +crater-like hollow, which, with Llyn y Cae lying at the foot +of the crags, is even wilder and more magnificent than the +one on the north side. Excepting the crags in this cwm the +south side of Cader consists of steep grass slopes, and the +general aspect of the mountain is uninteresting.</p> + +<p>An account is published in the <i>Gentleman's Magazine</i> +(vol. xxxviii. p. 147) of an ascent of the mountain in 1767 by +L. N.</p> + +<p>Cader Idris was also climbed in 1863 by Prince Arthur.</p> + +<p>Several members of the Alpine Club worked their way up +the direct route from Llyn y Gader in 1881, and there is +some mention in the <i>Alpine Journal</i> (vol. xii.) of a few +ascents by Mr. H. Willink.</p> + +<p>The gullies along the north face of the mountain were +explored for many years by F. H. B.</p> + +<p>The wandering Borrow wordily describes a night adventure +on Cader Idris. A pleasantly-written chapter on it may +be found in Paterson's <i>Mountaineering Below the Snow +Line</i>, and just recently an article has appeared on the same +subject in the <i>Scottish Mountaineering Journal</i>. This latter +article has a good general view of the whole length of the +north face.</p> + +<p>On the north face, between Pen y Gader and Cyfrwy, a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> +tailor named Smith, of Newport, met his death by a fall from +the crags in 1864. His body was not found until the following +spring.</p> + +<p>There is another Pen y Gader in South Wales, the highest +point in the Black Forest of Carmarthen (2,630 ft.); also +between Y Foel Fras and the Conway River a hill goes by +the same name.</p> + +<p>The ordinary excursions up the mountain are made from +Dolgelly, by the Foxes' Path, in 2¼ hours; by the Bridle +Path, in 2¾ hours, or by Mynydd Moel in 3 hours; from +Arthog, easily reached by train from Barmouth, in 3 hours; +from Tal y Llyn in 2 hours; and from Towyn in 4 hours.</p> + +<p>The walk up from Towyn is by the Dysynni valley and +the <i>Bird Rock</i>. This has a very bold and steep front, broken +up by narrow ledges. It can be ascended with different +degrees of ease, and is worth climbing for the view. The +rock is named from its usual frequenters, the kite, hawk, and +cormorant showing up in large numbers on the face.</p> + +<p><i>Rock Climbs.</i>—(<i>a</i>) <i>On Mynydd Moel.</i>—These are all fairly +easy in dry weather, and are worth exploring on a slack day. +Standing at the eastern corner of the little square Llyn Aran, +we notice the highest point of Mynydd Moel to the west. A +fine-looking arête leads up to it from the north, with a well-marked +pinnacle apparently half-way up the climb. This we +shall call the north ridge. A prominent pillar of unusual +steepness is seen to our left, reaching to the height of the +Ceu Graig ridge. Its eastern side is cut into by a narrow +gully that seems from below to pass behind the pillar.</p> + +<p>To the right of the Ceu Graig pillar is seen another<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> +gully, looking steep but grassy; it is found to offer a +pleasant route on to the ridge. Above the upper screes at +the foot of the higher crags several ascents may be planned +from below. The best is marked by two oblique chimneys +that start upwards to the left. Between this and the north +ridge a large scree gully leads up to the highest part of the +mountain, and from it on the right several short scrambles +on good slabby rocks are obtainable.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_118.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_118_s.jpg" width="400" height="199" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">CRAIG ADERYN (BIRD ROCK)</span> +</div> + +<p>The first of the Ceu Graig gullies, counting from left to +right, is to the left of the pillar, and takes three-quarters of an +hour to ascend from the lake. It starts with a water slide that +we take on the right, and we pass back into the gully immediately +afterwards. Then the ascent of an easy chimney makes +us a little wet if the weather has been rainy, and a pitch appears +just above. This can be taken on the right or left. The +right-hand route gives us wet rocks; the left leads up a side +chimney, and back into the gully by an awkward grass<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> +traverse. After this the gully divides, and leads us to the +neck that joins on to the pillar on our right.</p> + +<p>The steep outside face of the pillar can be ascended, but +is rather dangerous. It is a sample of mantelpiece climbing, +but the holds are mostly of grass and heather, and some of +the steps are long.</p> + +<p>The next gully, a short distance to the right of the pillar, +is more open than the first, and is less steep. Some water +is generally coming down. The first obstacle is a wide +cavern, that can be mounted immediately to the left or +avoided by passing up the easy open chimney on that side of +the gully. The second is a waterfall, and that also is by +preference passed on the left; the difficulty finishes with a +short corkscrew chimney. From this we emerge on to the +open face of the mountain, and a few feet of good rock bring +us to the main ridge. We are now at about the level of the +upper limit of scree on the Mynydd Moel face, and a traverse +can be effected round to the oblique chimney already referred +to. In doing so we pass first a scree gully and then an +inviting cleft up to the left, but this is found to lose its +interest after the first 20 ft.</p> + +<p>The oblique chimneys can be recommended for beginners, +as the climbing is only about 250 ft.; the rocks are +very good, and the angle about 45°. Water comes down the +gully, but does not offer any trouble, except, perhaps, at the +first obstacle. If this is taken direct we climb up the right +wall, which overhangs, and cling sufficiently close to permit +the water to pass behind us. The second pitch is taken on +the right, the rock being so much undercut that we can pass<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span>behind the water. After this a little more scrambling leads +to a scree and an easy finish.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a href="images/i_120.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_120_s.jpg" width="600" height="427" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">SKETCH MAP OF + +CADER IDRIS</span> +</div> + +<p>The north ridge is somewhat disappointing. It works +well up to the pinnacle, which may also be approached by a +dilapidated chimney on the left. But just above this, where +another ridge joins from the north-west, it becomes a mere +walk along the edge of a cliff.</p> + +<p>Perhaps the neatest way of descending this cliff is by a +very narrow vertical chimney, marked at top and bottom by +small piles of stones, a little to the north of the big scree +gully, and close to the highest point of Mynydd Moel.</p> + +<p>(<i>b</i>) <i>West of Mynydd Moel.</i>—Here the north cliff is very +much broken. There are innumerable scree gullies up the +face, but the rock ridges in between them have no good +features. There are one or two pinnacles just below the +ridge, easy to reach from above, but difficult from below. +One especially is worth a scramble, about 5 minutes' walk +from Mynydd Moel; a thin and uncommonly difficult chimney +leads up its outside face.</p> + +<p>(<i>c</i>) <i>On Pen y Gader.</i>—The central gully up Pen y Gader +is a prominent feature of this face of the mountain. It was +climbed many years ago, but no definite account of its early +history has been obtained. It is in three obvious portions, +as indicated in the illustration, and is generally wet. The +two shelves that divide the climb stretch obliquely upwards +to the right across the whole face, and may be reached in a +great variety of ways. Nevertheless the only good climbing +is in the two lower portions of the main gully.</p> + +<p>The first piece takes us on to the shelf with about 70 ft.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> +of climbing. The gully narrows considerably, and we are +forced on to the right-hand side and up a steep and smooth +slope of water-worn rock. Then we cross over the water to +the left, and effect an easy exit on to the ledge. We next +scramble over some irregular blocks and into a narrow recess +at the foot of the second pitch. This is a narrow chimney, +very pleasant in dry weather, landing us in 50 ft. on to the +second ledge. From here the ground is more open, and the +climbing is of a slight character to the summit, except in +winter, when the whole gully is apt to be heavily glazed. +Under such circumstances the lowest pitch is almost +dangerous.</p> + +<p>The first pitch may be varied by striking up from the +screes a few yards to the left of the main gully, by the cleft +shown in the illustration. The second can be quitted altogether, +and the columnar rocks to the west taken in a variety +of ways; and all along the upper corridor will be found short +pitches leading to the summit ridge.</p> + +<p>(<i>d</i>) <i>On Cyfrwy.</i>—There are two well-defined arêtes leading +up close to the summit of Cyfrwy. The first <i>a a</i> is in an +easterly direction, and may be seen in profile from the direction +of Pen y Gader. This is easily recognisable by the curious +truncated pinnacle or tower some way up. The second +bears up from the north, and also shows a pinnacle, but of +smaller dimensions. Beyond the two arêtes the climbing on +Cyfrwy is inferior, but between them there are a few interesting +routes up the crags.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 578px;"> +<a href="images/i_123.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_123_s.jpg" width="578" height="365" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">CADER IDRIS + +(seen across Llyn y Gader)</span> +</div> + +<p>The terrace <i>e e</i> is easily reached from the screes. From it +there are two definite climbs, one <i>b b</i> up a gully to the left, that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span>leads out on to the east arête, the other <i>c c</i> up a more open +gully that passes to the summit ridge. It is possible that the +notch between the great tower and the east arête can be +reached from this side, but the upper part looks difficult.</p> + +<p>The east arête was climbed in about 1888 by the writer. +The first recorded ascent was in January 1891 (H. K., +W. E. S., and O. G. J.), and the first ascent by a lady in +August 1891 (Miss L. G., K. W. D., and O. G. J.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_124.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_124_s.jpg" width="400" height="242" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">THE CYFRWY CLIMBS, FROM THE NORTH.</span> +</div> + +<p>It can be followed all the way up. The tower is best +turned on the right, and the vertical wall of 40 ft. that +immediately follows is climbed direct from the little gap, +with just a slight divergence to the left. The only serious +difficulty on the arête is a wall of rock 100 ft. higher up. It +can be surmounted by a thin cleft, the jammed stones in +which are unsafe; or by working up the face a little to the +left. The situation is very exposed. This, and any other<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> +bad bits, can generally be avoided by climbing down to the +scree gully on our left. Near the top of the arête we pass<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> +the exit of the chimney <i>b b</i>, which descends steeply to the +right.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_125.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_125_s.jpg" width="400" height="472" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">CYFRWY ARÊTES + +(The northern is seen in profile, the eastern is much foreshortened)</span> +</div> + +<p>The north arête has probably not been climbed, but the +gullies on each side have been taken. They call for no +special comment. The one to the right is worth ascending +for the view of the fine rocks on this face. It is mostly scree +with a small pitch near the top, and was once marked above +by a little cairn. It is admirable when hard snow is about.</p> + +<p>The gully <i>c c</i> to the left is very open and risky, consisting +of a series of shelves formed by the falling away of the +porphyritic pillars that characterise the face.</p> + +<p>The climb <i>b b</i> is rather better. The scrambling from the +terrace is easy but steep, until a large overhanging boulder +entirely blocks the way. We then climb up the vertical wall +on the left and traverse back to the gully. It finishes very +abruptly on the narrow upper ridge of the east arête, and +in a most unexpected way we find ourselves looking down +to Llyn y Gader with the face of Pen y Gader directly +opposite.</p> + +<p>There are a few short climbs on the face of Tyrrau Mawr, +but nothing very definite can be picked out.</p> + +<p>(<i>e</i>) <i>On Craig y Cae.</i>—The great gully of Mynydd Pencoed +was climbed for the first time on May 18, 1895 (W. P. H. S., +E. L. W. H. S., and O. G. J.) It is by far the finest climb +in the Cader district; the work in it is as varied as in any of +the more familiar gullies in the neighbourhood of Snowdon, +and the rock scenery in its upper portion can scarcely be +surpassed on British soil. The upper part of the gully +attracted the attention of the writer in 1890, but it was not<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> +until April 1895 that he made any attempt to enter the +gully at its lower extremity. Then he succeeded in forcing +his way over the first pitch, but the great rush of water +coming down the gully made the second pitch impossible, +and the untimely fracture of an ice axe prompted a temporary +withdrawal.</p> + +<p>On the day when the successful attempt was made the +rocks were unusually dry. In wet weather the difficulties of +the climb are likely to be very much increased, more especially +in the narrower pitches, where the route chosen by +the climber is identical in position with that chosen by +the water, though opposite in direction so long as valour +needs diluting down to discretion. It seems probable that +grass traverses may be found to circumvent the lower pitches. +The first and second, for example, may be avoided by traversing +into the gully from the left, over the grassy buttress +that supports the Pencoed Pillar. The third pitch may be +passed immediately on the left, if one treats the loose soil +with due consideration. The fourth and fifth seem from +above to permit an alternative route up to the right, over +steep grass and back to the gully by a treacherous-looking +upward traverse to the left. From here the three remaining +pitches directly up the gully offer the simplest solution to +the rest of the problem; variations to the left and right +have been freely suggested, but are still untested.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a href="images/i_128.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_128_s.jpg" width="600" height="316" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">LLYN Y CAE (OR CAU) AND CRAIG Y CAE (FROM CADER IDRIS)</span> +</div> + +<p>The climbing starts within 200 ft. of the level of Llyn y +Cae, with a short pitch some 12 ft. high, marked above by a +cairn of stones. The second pitch begins almost immediately, +and must be taken direct, the roof of the cave in its upper<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span>portion to be approached by a serpentine squirm of the body +after the cave is entered, up the thin crack on the right. +The third pitch is ferocious in aspect, but uncertain in +action, on account of the poor quality of its material. It +consists of a large cavern with a pendulous mass of brittle +rock hanging down from the roof somewhat to the left. +The cavern is penetrated as far as possible on this side, and +then, with back to the hanging rock and feet on a hold +invisible from below, a passage may be effected outwards to +the firm hand-holds in the open. A jammed stone with +débris attached, in the most handy situation at the corner of +the exit, is best left alone.</p> + +<p>Soon after this we approach a long narrow chimney close +to the left wall of the gully. It is about 35 ft. in length, and +the upper part gives trouble. But a very fine foothold some +12 ft. up gives breathing space for the final portion. Then +the interest ceases for a while, as we mount some 130 ft. of +scree and smooth rocky slabs at an easy angle. This is an excellent +arrangement, for the fifth pitch, that now comes on, is +likely to demand all our powers of admiration for a while.</p> + +<p>It consists of a cavern divided by two steep buttresses into +three parts, side by side, the middle one being most open to +inspection but most difficult to approach directly. Immediately +above the left-hand portion a vertical chimney rises +some 40 ft., its lower end projecting well over the cave and +manifesting no direct route of approach from below. To get +to the foot of this chimney is the chief difficulty. The method +adopted was rather intricate, and probably permitted much +improvement. It has, however, the advantage that the leader<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> +need not climb straight away the full 80 or 90 ft. without a halt. +He first penetrates as far as possible into the cave on the left, +until the roof bars further progress. Then he traverses over +a dangerously smooth and wet slab, with no perceptible foothold, +to the middle portion of the cavern. From here he +works upwards and outwards until with a long stride he +steps out on to a little ledge on the right wall of the gully. +Here a hole through a large block enables him to manipulate +the rope with safety, and the second man can join him. +The second may reach the terrace more directly, if the rope +is available, by working directly up the middle of the gully +till the level of the ledge is reached; but the climbing is +very uncertain, on account of the treacherous footholds. +From the ledge the leader passes back across the centre +and over a notched curtain of rock into the upper chimney. +Here there is no doubt as to the route; a resting-place is +afforded for a moment by a little cave, through the roof of +which only the thinnest can hope to wriggle. The edge of +this roof is mounted on the right, and a few feet higher a +jammed block that dominates the pitch is turned on the right, +up some rather treacherous grass that needs very careful +treatment. The writer would like to add a word of advice +to this already lengthy description of the pitch. Don't +attempt to qualify for the through route of the little cave by +slipping downwards and jamming in the chimney.</p> + +<p>The three remaining pitches are short and near together, +the last one finishing a few feet below the summit of the +ridge, some 850 ft. above the lake.</p> + +<p><i>East Gully.</i>—The gully immediately to the east of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> +Pencoed Pillar was first climbed on May 19, 1895 (W. P. H. S., +W. E. S., and O. G. J.) As seen from the opposite shores +of the lake it presents a striking appearance, the middle part +looking very difficult. It starts higher up the face than the +western climb (about 440 ft. above the lake), and finishes on +the ridge at a somewhat lower level than the top of the latter +(870 ft. above lake). Thus the climbing is much reduced, and +the whole ascent can be accomplished in an hour by a party +of three. The scrambling in it is almost continuous, and +towards the middle, where the rock walls close in the gully, +the route is very steep, though none of the pitches are severe.</p> + +<p>We begin with oblique slabs of rock rather inclined to be +wet. Then the direct route lies over a block of rock with +uncertain holds, but a cleft to the left promises much better, +and a traverse at the top leads back easily to the gully again. +The scrambling is very pleasant where the right wall begins +to overhang, and remains interesting till the gully divides. +From here screes lead up each part to the crest of the ridge, +but a small rock arête separating the two branches give us +climbing all the way.</p> + +<p>Still more to the east is a shorter gully, composed for the +most part of scree, that can be taken in 20 minutes. It has +two pitches, the upper one requiring a rope. The first is +taken up on either side, and is only about 12 ft. high. The +second is a cave pitch with a very fine interior. The ascent +is effected by backing up the rather loose walls of the cave, +and then bearing out to the left and over the obstacle. From +here to the summit is nothing but scree. The gully is +afflicted with the near neighbourhood of badly weathered<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> +rocks, and shows signs of having been quite recently bombarded +from the crags on the left.</p> + +<p>These three gullies on Mynydd Pencoed represent all the +climbing that has as yet been attempted on the south side +of Cader. It is much to be hoped that a few interesting +routes will yet be found between the pillar and the small col +that represents the lowest portion of Craig y Cau, and the +account of what has been done may induce others to visit +this unfrequented region. To the same end it might be +advisable to throw out the remark that the Pencoed Pillar, +some 700 ft. high, looks quite inaccessible from the grassy +buttress at its foot.</p> + + +<p>South Wales.</p> + +<p>It is scarcely worth while to enumerate the southern +counties, as all alike are destitute of climbs, except upon the +sea cliffs. Some of these are remarkably bold and picturesque, +especially about Lydstep (Tenby) and St. David's Head; +but they cannot compare in any way with those of Ireland, +and least of all for climbing purposes, being mainly of limestone. +Just north of Aberystwith are some highly curious +rocks, giving a climb or two. Some twenty years ago a +schoolboy was killed by falling from them.</p> + +<p>Of the inland rocks it will be sufficient to mention a +few.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 577px;"> +<a href="images/i_133.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_133_s.jpg" width="577" height="311" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">CLIFFS NEAR LYDSTEP (TENBY)</span> +</div> + +<p><b>The Brecon Beacons</b> (2,910 ft.), in Brecknockshire +(which name the travellers of old, with some justice, modified +to 'Breakneckshire'), are sandstone peaks of very striking +outline. Indeed, Mackintosh (who saw them from the east)<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span>says, 'I was more impressed than I have been with any +mountain in Wales. Their outline excited a very unusual +idea of sublimity.'</p> + +<p>Brecon is the best starting-point, and it is a good plan, +though by no means necessary, to drive to the Storey Arms +inn (1,400 ft.), eight miles towards Merthyr, or to go by train +to Torpantau, and thus avoid walking over any part of the +way twice.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_134.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_134_s.jpg" width="400" height="264" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">CLIFFS NORTH OF ABERYSTWITH</span> +</div> + +<p>The way is easy, and easily found; but a wary eye +should be kept upon the streams, which in this part of +Wales are surprisingly rapid and copious.</p> + +<p>A curious notion once prevailed that nothing would fall +from the top of this hill. Many years ago an unfortunate<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> +picnicker disproved this. See the <i>Times Index</i>, but the +statement there made that he fell 12,000 ft. is somewhat +startling.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>The Black Mountains</b>, a wide stretch of charming +hill-walking, have little to attract the mere climber, nor will +he find much on such hills as the bastion-like <b>Blorenge</b> +(1,720 ft.), in spite of their possessing caps of 'mill-stone +grit.'</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Plynlimon</b> (2,469 ft.) is seldom mentioned except with +derision.</p> + +<p><i>The Beauties of Wales</i> (1818) does indeed speak of 'the +towering summit which bears the name of Plinlimmon,' +and quotes the equally appropriate description given by +Philips—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i6">That cloud-piercing hill<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Plinlimmon from afar the traveller kens,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Astonished how the goats their shrubby browse<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Gnaw pendent.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>But, in truth, the great difficulty which travellers have, +whether far or near, is to ken it at all; and many of them +have vented their disappointment in words of bitter scorn.</p> + +<p>Pennant (1770) candidly admits that he never saw it, +which is easily understood, for the mountain is neither easy +to see nor worth looking at when seen. The ascent is a +protracted bog-walk. It was made in 1767<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor" title="Go to footnote 19."> [19] </a> by L. N., but +Taylor, the Water Poet (1652), sensibly calls it</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i8">Tall Plinillimon,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Which I no stomach had to tread upon.<br /></span> +</div></div> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span></p> +<p>An amusing notice used to be seen at Steddfa Gurig +(then an inn), 2½ miles south of the summit, and 13¼ miles by +road from Llanidloes: 'The notorious hill Plinlimon is on +the premises.' This place, being 1,358 ft. above the sea, is +the best starting-point for the ascent of the mountain, and +coaches run past it from Llanidloes.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Aberedw Rocks</b> are fairly typical of the kind of +climbing which is to be found in South Wales. The rocks +being quite close to the station of that name on the Cambrian +Railway, are brought within easy reach of Rhayader +and Builth Wells on the north and of Brecon on the south. +Three or four rock terraces, 15 to 20 ft. high, break the slope +of the hill beside the railway, and a sort of rocky cove penetrates +it as well. Bits here and there are not unlike the +'chimneys' on Slieve League, but the material is more +friable, resembling loose walls of very inferior slaty fragments. +A few harder masses stand out picturesquely as +small pinnacles, especially in the cove, near the head of +which a lofty bulging piece of rock has a vertical rift in it, +which for a few feet offers quite a difficult climb.</p> + +<p>The river <b>Edw</b> (close by) has extremely steep, cliff-like +banks, and these are a common feature in other tributaries +of the Wye. The <b>Bachwy</b>, for instance, has a gorge which, +seen as the writer has seen it during a winter flood, is profoundly +impressive. Malkin's description (1804) should not +be missed. He found 'rudely-shaped eccentricities of +nature, with all the mysterious gloom of vulgar and traditional +ascription,' 'dwarfishly fructified rock,' 'features all +of a revolting cast,' and 'a prospect rude and unchastised.'<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span></p> + +<p>The <b>Irvon</b>, again, has sides so rocky as to be chosen by +the falcon for nesting.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Cwm Elan</b>, 5 or 6 miles from Rhyader, is a very +pretty spot, and the gorge of Cefn Coch is exceedingly +striking. Mackintosh says that the height is not less than +800 ft., and the cliffs are in many parts mural and quite +perpendicular. He declared that, while the cliffs on the left-hand +side of the river are very fine, he had seen nothing to +surpass those on the right. This from a hill traveller of his +experience is remarkably high praise. The writer has only +visited these rocks once, and has never attempted to climb +there, nor, indeed, has he ever heard of anyone else doing so. +The Birmingham reservoir is to submerge several miles of +this cwm and the two houses in which Shelley stayed.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Stanner Rocks</b> are quite near the station of the same +name on the branch of the Great Western from Leominster +to New Radnor, and on the north side of the railway. The +material of which they are composed is superior for climbing +purposes to the soft shaly stuff so common in South Wales, +being the same eruptive trap rock which forms the hills of +Hunter, Worsel, and Old Radnor, and has metamorphosed +the surrounding limestone. These rocks narrowly miss +being a good climb. The train from Leominster takes about +50 minutes.</p> + +<p>Near New Radnor is a precipice down which Cliffe +(1854) mentions that a gentleman rode, and he also records +that another climbed the fall called <i>Waterbreakitsneck</i>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>IRELAND</h2> + + +<p><b>Introduction.</b>—Climbing in Ireland, in the sense in +which it is understood in Switzerland, is, of course, unknown, +although during a winter of happily rare occurrence, such as +that of 1894-5, abundant snow and ice-slope work is no doubt +obtainable. It would be accompanied, however, by extreme +cold and days of too short a duration for work.</p> + +<p>Nor can Ireland boast of such arenas for cliff-climbing as +the Lake District, or the Cuchullins in Skye. There is no +Pillar Rock, no Old Man of Dearg. But there are ample +opportunities for acquiring the art of mountain craft, the +instinct which enables the pedestrian to guide himself alone +from crest to crest, from ridge to ridge, with the least labour. +He will learn how to plan out his course from the base of +cliff or gully, marking each foot and hand grip with calm +attention; and, knowing when to cease to attempt impossibilities, +he will learn to trust in himself and acquire that +most necessary of all climbers' acquirements a philosophic, +contemplative calm in the presence of danger or difficult +dilemmas. If the beginner is desirous of rock practice, or +the practised hand requires to test his condition, or improve +his form, there is many a rocky coast where the muscles and +nerves and stamina can be trained to perfection. Kerry<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> +and Donegal are competent to form a skilled mountaineer +out of any capable aspirant. Ice and snow craft is an +accomplishment which must of course be acquired elsewhere.</p> + +<p>Much of the best scenery in Ireland is available only to +the mountaineer. Macgillicuddy's Reeks can hardly be +appreciated in less than a week's exploration. Even after +three weeks spent amongst them we have wished for more. +Donegal alone requires lengthened attention, and there a +much longer period will be profitably spent.</p> + +<p>The climbing described in the following pages was chiefly +undertaken with the object, or excuse, of botanical discovery. +All the mountain experiences, except where the contrary is +stated, represent the personal—usually the solitary—experiences +of the writer. Of roped climbing the author has had +no experience outside the Alps. Being tied up in a package +and lowered from a cliff to a bird's nest, though not climbing, +is, no doubt, a feat requiring nerve and dexterity; but when +the nest of the raven, peregrine, or chough is in view, and +ropes and companions are 'out of all ho,' and it appears +improbable such a chance will come again, the eager naturalist +will indeed rejoice that his nerve and dexterity are not wholly +dependent on the comfortable security of a friendly cable round +his waist. To the botanist such accomplishments are even +more essential. A knowledge of rocks—what to trust, what +to mistrust, what to attack vertically (such as granite and +quartzose usually), what to deal with by their ledges (such +as limestone often and sandstone still oftener), what to +avoid altogether (such as trap, chalk, and decomposing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> +basalt), a knowledge of the elementary principles of guidance +under varying conditions of weather—can be gleaned from the +mountain and sea coast cliffs in Ireland, not, perhaps, to such +an extent as to produce an expert, but quite enough to lay +the requisite groundwork of one. Form and condition, +nerve and activity, will develop in company, and with them +the love for the art will grow, and nothing beyond a little +local education will be wanting to enable him to follow upon +their arduous undertakings real proficients in mountain craft. +Any words that can induce the skilled mountaineers of +England and Scotland to test the merits of an Irish welcome, +of Irish scenery, and of the bracing combination of Atlantic +and mountain air in the western counties will have been +written to good purpose.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Antrim.</b>—The highest hills are Trostan (1,810 ft.) and +Slieveanea (1,782 ft.) The formation is almost entirely trap +or basalt, and there is no cliff-climbing, the rock being +crumbly and unsafe. Around the coast there is a belt of +cretaceous rocks, forming in some places, as at the Giant's +Causeway (White Rocks) and at Fair Head, bold cliffs of +chalk or rotten trap. On Fair Head, 640 ft. high, there is +a magnificent view. Cyclopean columns of greenstone crown +a talus always heavy on the Antrim cliffs, owing to their +friable nature.</p> + +<p>There is a fissure known as the Grey Man's Path on the +west side of this Head, in the face of the cliff, by which it is +possible to descend and inspect the foot of the columnar +prisms.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 396px;"> +<a href="images/i_141.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_141_s.jpg" width="396" height="546" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">THE TARTAR ROCK + +(on Fair Head)</span> +</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span></p> + +<p>The Antrim glens and the Antrim coast road are deservedly +famous for their lovely scenery, and excellent accommodation +is everywhere obtainable. Of the glens <i>Glenariff</i> is, +perhaps, the gem. It is hemmed in by cliffs 1,000 ft. high, +with mural summits. Glenarm is equally beautiful, though +in a more tranquil and gentle way. On the north and south +sides of the Bay there are considerable precipices.</p> + +<p>From Fair Head the prospect is singularly fine. The +Head is columnar basalt.</p> + +<p>Fair Head is approached from Ballycastle on the west. +West of Ballycastle again, about the same distance, is the +well-known rocky islet of Carrig-a-Rede, which is severed +from the mainland by a chasm nearly a hundred feet deep, +spanned by a very slight swinging or flying bridge, which in a +storm is not inviting.</p> + +<p>On this basaltic islet an interesting climb round the cliffs +may be had, and the rock is secure enough on the west and +north sides.</p> + +<p>From Ballintoy, which is close to Carrig-a-Rede, it is a +magnificent cliff walk to the Causeway; and from the +Causeway to Portrush the rocky coast scenery is full of +interest. Many places will invite a scramble. Below the +road, which is adorned with an electric railway, numerous +difficult places occur, and several little valleys permit a +descent to the sea and a swim. A few miles west of the +Causeway the coast becomes low to Portrush, the golfing +centre, with its excellent hotel.</p> + +<p>At Portrush, or near it, at White Park Bay, the white +cretaceous rocks are capped by frowning basalt, and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> +contrast of colours is most striking. It is not necessary to +describe the well-known <i>Giant's Causeway</i>. <i>Pleaskin Head</i> +is the finest feature in its cliff scenery, but unfit for climbing, +owing to the crumbling, weathering nature of its beds of lava +and iron ore. More fine sea cliffs are found in the Gobbins, +on Island Magee.</p> + +<p>Antrim, with all its lovely cliff and glen scenery, and all +its good hotels, is not a mountaineer's county, like Kerry, +Donegal, or Wicklow. It is more highly cultivated and more +civilised than a climber with a proper sense of his calling +could possibly approve of. It suggests driving, bicycling, +picnics, good dinners, and evening dress more than knickers +and hard work.</p> + +<p>We will turn our attention, therefore, to <i>the</i> mountain +county of Ireland.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Donegal</b> has some of the highest and finest mountains in +Ireland, and the extent of mountainous country is larger than +in any other part of Ireland. No maritime mountain and +cliff combined can approach Slieve League, in Donegal, and +if the coast cliffs of Mayo have a continuous grandeur that +excels any similar stretch in Donegal, there are many higher +and finer cliffs on the Donegal coast, in endless succession and +variety from Inishowen Head, on Lough Swilly, to the south-west +coast.</p> + +<p>The Donegal mountains form four groups—(1) <i>Inishowen +Mountains</i>; (2) <i>Donegal Highlands</i>; (3) <i>South-West Donegal</i>; +(4) <i>South Donegal</i>.</p> + +<p><i>Inishowen Group.</i>—<i>Slieve Snacht</i>, the highest point,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span> +has no interest, except its view, and the same remark applies +to <i>Rachtin More</i>, the next highest. Both are composed of +barren quartzite. <i>Bulbin</i> has a schistose escarpment looking +north-west, of some 300 ft., reaching almost to the summit, +and terminating in a short talus and a heather-clad slope. It +is a very picturesque little mountain, and possesses some interesting +plants.</p> + +<p>Inishowen is deficient in accommodation. North of Buncrana +there are but one or two inns that will tempt a visitor +to return. Accommodation can be obtained at Carndonagh +and Culdaff, and at Malin Head there is a house that receives +visitors by arrangement.</p> + +<p>Malin Head is the proper place from whence to explore +the cliffs of Inishowen, and Glennagiveny, under Inishowen +Head, to its north, contains lodging-houses also.</p> + +<p>The coast line of Inishowen is in many parts wild and +magnificent. Inishowen Head affords excellent climbing. +The cliffs are from 300 to 400 ft. in height, and various +traverses, ascents, and descents can be made between Stroove +and Glennagiveny. The Head is in reach of Moville, where +there is a good inn.</p> + +<p>Further to the north-west the cliffs increase in height. +From Glengad Head, a little north-west of Culdaff, to Stookaruddan +a series of precipitous headlands (500 to 800 ft.) faces +the ocean, looking a little east of north. The walk along this +coast from Culdaff to Malin Head, although laborious, on +account of the steep-sided inlets, is well worth the trouble. +The rugged boldness of Malin Head is most fascinating, and +in a storm it is superbly grand. At this point the cliffs have<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> +fallen to a low elevation. The finest bit is at a place about +half-way between Glengad and Stookaruddan.</p> + +<p>Having put up for the night at Malin Head, if possible, if +not at Malin or Carndonagh (the latter for choice), Dunaff +Head, guarding the eastern entrance to Lough Swilly, should +be visited. Lough Swilly is the finest oceanic inlet round +the whole coast of Ireland. The eastern cape, about 700 ft. +high, terminates in a range of bold precipices over 600 ft. high +for some distance. It is a most enchanting bit of sea cliff. +In variety of shape, sheerness of descent, and picturesque +grouping and surroundings it is hard to match.</p> + +<p>The cliffs can be descended at the nose of Dunaff to an +outer rocky continuation, provided there is no storm. In +stormy weather this rock, of perhaps a hundred feet, is completely +swept by surf. There is a steep gully in another +place on the south side, which admits of a descent to the +water's edge. For most of their length, however, these cliffs +are quite impracticable. For some distance downwards all +seems to go well, but the pelting of detritus from above and +Atlantic surf from below render the lower parts as smooth as +marble and straight as a wall into the water. Here and +there the inner bluffs are more practicable, and from a boat, +in very calm weather, a study of the cliffs would probably +reveal more than the scrutiny from above, which is usually +alone possible.</p> + +<p>South of Dunaff Head, up Lough Swilly, the precipitous +coast of the Erris Mountains gives a most enjoyable stretch +of rough work. It is often possible to descend to the sea, +and having done so a difficult climb is often preferable to a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> +tiresome ascent to the headland surmounting one of the +numerous creeks.</p> + +<p>Across the Lough we find ourselves in the lovely peninsula +of Fanet, the coast of which is admirably adapted for +rock practice. The highest sea cliff is the Bin, a conspicuous +headland 350 ft. high and very precipitous. It can, however, +be scaled without much difficulty in one place, a few feet +from the summit towards the south. Other parts of it +appear practicable, and at low tide the base can be completely +compassed—a wild bit of work if there is a sea on. +There is an admirable hotel at Portsalon, with a famous +golf links, about half-way between this cliff and Knockalla +Mountains. The whole coast from Portsalon to the Bin is +studded with cliffs, caves, and remarkably beautiful natural +arches.</p> + +<p>The rock of Fanet is almost entirely quartzite, a metamorphosed +sandstone, often pure and glittering quartz. It is +firm and safe, but the absence of stratification renders +it difficult to negotiate. This barren rock (it disintegrates to +silex) is very common in Donegal, and is identical with that +of the Twelve Benns, in Connemara.</p> + +<p>Before leaving Lough Swilly the remarkable view from +Dunaff Head should be referred to. On a clear day the +Paps of Jura, the Mull of Cantire, and even the Isles of Arran +and Islay, can be seen in Scotland over the low Malin Head. +Westwards, in a noble succession, lies the grand series of the +outer Donegal capes. Fanet Head, Melmore Head, Breaghy +Head, Horn Head, Tory Island, and the Bloody Foreland are +all in view, and south-westwards the 'Donegal Highlands'<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> +look so imposing that an immediate expedition to them will +probably be decided upon.</p> + +<p>Across the peninsula which lies between Mulroy Water +and Lough Swilly there is a most comfortable inn at the +Rosapenna Golf Links. It is an extremely pretty wooden +structure, brought by the philanthropic Lord Leitrim, whose +loss the district will never cease to deplore, from Norway, and +the complete success of it makes one wonder that this sort of +structure is not more often adopted. From Rosapenna expeditions +can be made to cliffs and coast in all directions.</p> + +<p><i>Horn Head</i> is a grand range of sea cliffs, ten or twelve +miles in extent, which are the largest breeding-place in +Ireland for sea fowl. There are a few places where a descent +is possible, and a careful exploration (with the proprietor's +permission) will be certain to yield excellent climbing. The +rock is as firm as iron in most places. Most of the climbing the +writer has done on these cliffs has been from a boat upwards +in search of sea fowls' eggs. One especially remembered one, +after green cormorants' nests, at the entrance to that most +noble cave the Gap of Doonmore, was of great difficulty. +The absolutely reliable rock had very slight 1–1½-in. ledges, +and the latter part of the climb was slightly overhanging. +The nests were reached, however.</p> + +<p>All round this Head excellent rock-climbing, coupled with +magnificent scenery, is available. At the base of the cliffs, +not far from the proprietor's dwelling-place, there is a little +bay with a cave above the reach of the tide. Here a man +once saved his life by climbing. My friend, Mr. Charles +Stewart, the proprietor of the Horn Head estates, writes:<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span>—</p> + +<p>'I think it was the year 1876 that my man John Stewart +was over three weeks in the cave watching my salmon, without +the boat being able to go to him. The cliffs above were +600 ft. high. He could easily climb up about 100 ft., most of +it cliff-climbing with a little grass. After that there is a very +difficult piece of cliff, almost perpendicular, of about 40 ft. +It is easy enough to get down to this point from the top. +A man went down and lowered a rope to him, but he could +not come up straight, as the cliff overhung too much. He +tied the rope round him and climbed up in a zigzag way. He +was half an hour climbing this short piece, and was very exhausted, +with his hands badly cut and bleeding. He had +with him his son, a boy of about twelve years old. He had +rope about 10 ft. long from his waist to the boy, who slipped +twice on the way up, each time very nearly taking his father +with him. About five years afterwards the boy was looking +for eggs in the cliffs, and fell about 500 ft. to a shingly beach, +rolling the first part of the way down a steep grassy bank for +about 100 ft., and then a sheer drop of 150 ft. to another +grassy bank where a small holly bush grows. When picked +up (of course quite dead) he had a holly branch in his +hand.'</p> + +<p>There is a comfortable hotel at Dunfanaghy, immediately +inland of Horn Head.</p> + +<p>From Dunfanaghy Tory Island can be visited in calm +weather—an interesting boating trip. It is fifteen or twenty +miles to the north of west, and Horn Head has to be passed +on the way, giving an opportunity of surveying its cliffs. +There is a cliff or buttress (called, I believe, Tormore) which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> +the islanders point out, that is somewhat difficult to climb +upon. Once on the summit the successful cragsman can +have any wish he may pine for. The highest point of the +island is under 300 ft. The inhabitants disregard the payment +of all rents, taxes, &c.</p> + +<p>The turreted and bold contour of Tory renders it a great +embellishment to the north-west coast. It is visible from all +elevations for a considerable distance. Seen in a sunset its +richly reddish-coloured granites light up with a warm and +lovely glow. It formerly possessed monastic or other religious +institutions, and several ruins of small churches or +oratories are still visible. It abounds with legends—a home +of superstition and folk-lore.</p> + +<p>From the neighbourhood of Dunfanaghy the most attractive +objects upon the horizon are the mountains of the +Donegal Highlands, <i>Muckish</i> and <i>Errigal</i> being especially +conspicuous.</p> + +<p><i>Muckish</i> ('Pig's Back,' 2,200 ft.) is about 7 miles +from Dunfanaghy. It is flat-topped, with short rotten cliffs +on the north and west sides.</p> + +<p><i>Errigal</i> (an oratory or small church) is more interesting. +The summit is pointed, bifid, and hardly large enough for +more than two persons. It is composed chiefly of disintegrating +quartzite, flanked on the west by igneous rocks. +Between Errigal and Muckish (about 6 miles) lie the +pointed summits of <i>Aghla Beg</i> (1,860 ft.) and <i>Aghla More</i> +(1,916 ft.) The largest of many lakes is Alton Lough, where +the writer was once solemnly cautioned against swimming, +on account of the 'Phouea,' which lived there and used to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> +mingle with the cattle as a cow and lure one down into the +depths. So would he do with mankind. Numerous swims +in that lake have weakened this prognostication.</p> + +<p>Above Alton Lough, on its south-west side, are the cliffs of +<i>Beaghy</i> (1,200 ft.), which afford a nice bit of climbing. All +these hills can be gone over in a day, though some (especially +Errigal) will ask a second visit. About 4 miles from +the base of Errigal is the excellent fishing inn at Gweedore. +From Dunfanaghy over the summit of Muckish, Aghla, +Beaghy, and Errigal down to Gweedore is a bit of mountaineering +which can be most thoroughly recommended. +Gweedore should be made a head-quarters for a few days; +and the comfort obtained at the close of the day will be well +earned and appreciated.</p> + +<p>The Poisoned Glen, six miles from Gweedore, is a stern +and barren scene of almost sheer, polished granite cliffs, +nearly 1,000 feet above the base of the glen. The south-west +corner of the glen is the most precipitous. Several +deep, black, narrow gorges cut deeply into the granite. +Some, particularly one at the corner of a commanding +buttress on the south side, about half-way up the glen, are +of considerable difficulty. Wedged boulders occur frequently. +The worst bit is the final struggle to the crest of the ridge, +which slopes south-westward to the summit of Slieve Snacht. +It will be found necessary in one place to break out of this +gully on to the face, and it should only be attempted in dry +weather. A full day may be spent going up one gully and +down another on the south-west side of the glen. Often +the descent is far easier, a jump of 12 or 15 ft. down to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span> +shingly soft bed of the gully clearing an obstacle difficult to +breast upwards.</p> + +<p>The most glaciated spots in Donegal are this glen and +<i>Slieve Snacht</i>, a rounded hump of granite.</p> + +<p>By proceeding to the head of the Poisoned Glen, past the +Gweedore Lakes, and past the prettily wooded Dunlewy +Lake which lies abreast of the Glen, up the winding stream +in its base, and taking the ravine in its apex, we reach a +pass known as Ballaghgeeha Gap ('Windy Pass'). From this +point it is a short walk across a valley to a road, visible from +the pass, which follows the Gweebarra valley south-west +down to Doochary. Taking it in the opposite direction, it +leads into Glenbeagh, a gorge about eight miles long, with +a lake enclosed by steep cliffs on its west shore. On its right +a beautifully wooded mountain slope contains the seat of the +proprietor, Glenbeagh Castle. This valley is crossed at its +mouth by the main road to Gweedore, some 10 miles away, +and the circuit described is one of the most beautiful mountain +walks imaginable. In order to vary this, and save the road +work home, a scramble along the west shore of the lake may +be effected to the granite cliffs opposite Glenbeagh Castle, +known as Keamnacally. In several places an ascent can be +effected of about 1,000 ft. The crest of the cliff leads up by +a gradual slope to the summit of Dooish, 2,147 ft. This +point is in a straight line for Gweedore from Glenbeagh, and +if the mountaineer wants more work the summit of Errigal +lies in the same bee-line.</p> + +<p><i>Lough Salt</i> (1,546 ft.), a conspicuous hill, was ascended +and described by Otway about seventy years ago, in the language<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> +of that period (<i>Scenes and Sketches in Ireland</i>). He +adds some quaint legends about two of the lakes. Into one of +these St. Patrick banished the last Irish snake, a rebellious +animal that gave him much anxiety.</p> + +<p><i>Gweedore to Carrick.</i>—The pedestrian had better omit +the north coast, and proceed westwards round the coast +to <i>Dungloe</i>.</p> + +<p>Aranmore Island, with its handsome red granites, shows +some fine cliffs, especially those at its north-west end, +between Torneady and the lighthouse. In the bay formed +by these cliffs a grand tooth or monolith stands isolated and +vertical, about 100 ft. in height. The cliffs are from +400 to nearly 600 ft., and some rise perpendicularly from the +water.</p> + +<p>The best point to visit Aran from is Burton Port, +about 3 miles off. Skilled boatmen are required, as the +passage is winding, amongst islets, rocks, rapid tide currents, +and shallows. Aranmore, like many other Atlantic islands, +slopes inland or eastward, and faces the Atlantic with a wall +of cliffs. The coast north of it is wild and beautiful, with +interesting physical features. Across Umfin Island runs a +gruesome cleft, through which a heavy sea tears its way in +fury, meeting the sea from the other end in frantic commotion. +Further east, on Horn Head, is the famous MacSwyne's +Gun, for many years a signal to the whole county that a +furious sea was raging at the Horn. It is a 'puffing hole' +on a large scale, but the little rift, ever widening, has +slowly silenced all, or nearly so. On this Head also is the +famous <i>Marble Arch</i>, Tempul Breagha, jutting out into the sea.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span></p> + +<p>At Dungloe good quarters and excellent fishing, as usual, +are obtainable.</p> + +<p>From Dungloe the road lies through Doochary, Glenties, +and Ardara to Carrick. Each of these last villages has a +good inn. The best plan is to break the journey at Ardara, +and take the magnificent coast walk or climb into Carrick, a +good day's work. As far as Maghera the way is plain along +a low sandy coast. West of this lies Maum Glen, whose cliffs +are precipitous enough, and if the glen be crossed a mile +inland it is a steep descent and ascent, though devoid of +difficulty. Following the coast, there is a track near the +water's margin for some distance. Soon the precipices +forming the north face of Slieve-a-Tooey are reached. If the +tide is low the base can be followed a long way with one or +two ugly corners. The cliffs are up to 1,000 ft. (Slieve-a-Tooey +1,692), but can be ascended in various places, and the land +lowers again at Port. All along the scenery is of the most +impressive character. Outside Port lies Tormore Island, +one of a group of boulders, a rock which, though hardly half +a mile round its base, is a tremendous sea fowl breeding-place, +second only to Horn Head. At low water Tormore +can be reached from the shore, and it is scaled in many +places by lads in search of eggs. One native was on the +Great Tor when a storm arose, and cut him off from the +shore and from all help. After a week he died of starvation +and exposure. It is, perhaps, about 500 to 600 ft. high. +Pursuing our way along the ever-varying cliffs, most interesting +in a storm, the curious promontory called Sturrell is +reached in about 4 miles. The knife-edged saddle is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> +very rotten, but leads to a firm block of rock nearly 1,000 ft. +above the sea. So defiant is the challenge of this rock +that no cragsman can pass it by. The passage is not +pleasant, yet even on a second visit the writer was powerless +to resist temptation. The tottering wall of rotten rock gives +the impression that the whole connection may slither down. +Considering what desperate Atlantic storms this crumbling +cliff withstands annually, such fears must be exaggerated. +Nevertheless it would be improper to recommend this climb. +It is dangerous as well as difficult, very exciting, and exceedingly +delightful—after it is over.</p> + +<p>The rock along this northern side of the mountainous +promontory of Banagh is chiefly quartzite, but in some +places, as Sturrell, a rotten schist.</p> + +<p>About a mile south of Sturrell another and a grander +headland is reached, that of Glen Head. It is 600 ft. of +cliff, and deservedly famous. It is easily visited from +Carrick Hotel, about 7 miles off. On much of the southern +side a descent is practicable.</p> + +<p>From Glen Head to the road to Carrick is a short walk. +At this hotel we are at the inland base of a renowned sea +precipice.</p> + +<p><i>Slieve League</i> (1,972 ft.), whose southern face descends +from the summit almost precipitously to the Atlantic, is +perhaps the finest ocean cliff in Europe. The ascent from +the hotel, almost at sea level, is easy. It is best to drive +down to Teelin Bay, and strike up the mountain westwards +along the coast. Carrigan Head is soon reached, and from a +point north of it, on the south side of Bunglass, the finest<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> +view of Slieve League is obtained. This gradual ascent to +about 1,000 ft. is a glorious experience.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_155.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_155_s.jpg" width="400" height="347" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">GLEN HEAD</span> +</div> + +<p>From the southern Bunglass cliffs the view of the richly-coloured +precipices opposite is superb. This colouring is a +remarkable feature. The cliff is well-nigh sheer for 1,000 ft., +descending straight from a heathery brink. With the exception +of the wonderful cliff seen in Yellowstone Park +from 'Inspiration Point,' the writer could name no rock-face<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> +with such an assemblage of hues. Dolerites, diorites, quartzites, +schists, and conglomerates all help to form this remarkable +mountain. Below the Atlantic lights up and enhances +the whole scene. Though usually breaking into heavy surge +it is sometimes as smooth as glass, and then the visitor should +secure a boat at Teelin (or Towney Bay), and row beneath, +viewing the caves. One of these, with a small entrance and +a vast interior, gives forth appalling reverberating echoes to +a horn or a gun.</p> + +<p>At Bunglass there is a track leading down to the sea, and +a swim rewards the descent. Crossing the heavy-shingled +foreshore to the base of the opposite cliffs, there is a gully +which appears practicable from below, and leads to the very +crest of the cliffs. The violence of storms and the pitiless +pelting of surf below and dislodged fragments from above +have cemented the steep floor of this slit into an uncompromising +hardness. The writer tried it, passed one or two bad +places, and was rejoiced beyond measure to reach the bottom +with unbroken bones.</p> + +<p>From the summit of Bunglass cliffs, at a point a little +north of the Eagle's Nest, at an altitude of 1,000 ft., it is +practicable to traverse the whole face of Slieve, at about +the middle height, 700 to 1,000 ft. above sea level, from +end to end, to the bluffs of Leahan. In two or three +places the ocean edge can be reached, besides the point +already mentioned. In search of botanical specimens we +have climbed them in all directions. There is a track (of a +sort) to the sea at one place between the Eagle's Nest and +the One Man's Pass. While scrambling along the sea face<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span> +this track was discovered amongst steep heather, bracken, and +bear-berry, and a footprint showed it to be a human resort. +Finally an old man and a little boy emerged from the ocean +brink, loaded with samphire, both inside and outside, and +eating it as they rested on their climb. Vastly surprised at +the appearance of the only stranger they had ever seen there, +they eagerly besought him to remove his boots—a suggestion +declined with thanks. Samphire boiled with milk is a cure +for a cough, but it was a novelty to see it eaten raw. This +track is called Thone-na-culliagh ('Back of the Grouse').</p> + +<p>It took the writer three summer days to complete this +traverse from end to end of the median height of Slieve +League. Several nasty ravines, iron-floored and steep-edged, +had to be crossed. At the close of each day an ascent had to +be discovered—an anxious undertaking, as the return invariably +seemed too dreadful to contemplate. The point relinquished +at the close of each day was religiously repaired to +on the following.</p> + +<p>Excessively steep slopes of cemented gravel, grass, or +crumbling rock, half held together by heather, are the usual +difficulties. But in four or five places odd right-angled walls +of horizontal, loosely-balanced blocks of slaty schist jut out +right across the face of the cliff, the legs of the angle being +sheer to the sea and horizontal above. The blocks lie loose +upon each other, and are not always large enough to give one +a sense of anything except the rickets. Usually it was possible +to climb beside these buttresses, and, balancing by them, +get over in gingerly fashion. But one—the largest—had to +be climbed on equilibristic principles. Sheep tracks follow<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span> +the face of the cliff in some places. Where a sheep can go a +man can go, though he may not like jumps from bad footing +to worse landing, where even sheep occasionally come to +grief. Accordingly a track going horizontally here looked +encouraging to the writer, till a flock of wild goats, signally +scared, put his confidence to flight, for a wild goat will lead +a man where he may find it necessary to make a prolonged +halt. However the goat track vanished upward, and the +seven-mile traverse was successfully completed to the Eagle's +Nest.</p> + +<p>From the summit of Slieve League there is a fine oceanic +view of island, headland, bay, and cliff. South-east of the +summit, at a slightly lower altitude, is the <i>One Man's Pass</i>, +about the terrors of which a great deal of rubbish has been +written. It is a steep, narrow, short ridge of firm rock, which +any mountaineer would walk up or down with his hands in +his pockets. In a storm he would, however, adopt a worm-like +attitude. The sides are very steep, but practicable both +seaward and inland. It commands a superb view. Among +the legends connected with Slieve League one about a Spaniard, +a priest, and a pony is the most captivating (see <i>The Donegal +Highlands</i>).</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a href="images/i_159.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_159_s.jpg" width="600" height="381" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">ONE MAN'S PASS</span> +</div> + +<p>Slieve League is capped by the remnants of outlying beds +of lower carboniferous age, conglomerates, with fossil plant +remains. Botanically also this mountain is most interesting, +rivalling Ben Bulben for first place as a habitat for mountain +plants in Ireland. There is an interesting feature visible +from the summit—a group of spire-like pinnacles, close below +the crest of the ridge. These are known as the 'chimneys,'<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span>and form an attractive assemblage. They are of the same +nature as the flying buttresses already spoken of.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_160.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_160_s.jpg" width="400" height="447" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">THE CHIMNEYS (SLIEVE LEAGUE)</span> +</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span></p> + +<p>Slieve League takes its name from 'liag' (flag). There is a +flag formation near the summit. Bunglass is 'Green River +Mouth,' but a modern guide-book translates Bunglass 'Beautiful +View,' a ludicrous error explained by the fact that the +point which gives so noble a prospect of Bunglass is known +as Awark More ('Great View').</p> + +<p><i>Croagh Gorm</i> and <i>Blue Stack Mountains</i> lie north +and west of Barnesmore Gap and above Lough Eske, +reaching nearly to Glenties, Lough Eske being about 30 +miles east of Slieve League. The coast eastwards from +Slieve League becomes suddenly low, and the formation +changes to carboniferous limestone, which occupies a broad +belt round Donegal Bay. The Blue Stack group is about +7 miles across.</p> + +<p><i>Blue Stack</i> (2,219 ft.) lies above Lough Eske and is +granite, although the Lough itself lies in the limestone. +About Lough Belshade, which lies north of Lough Eske, +about half-way up the east side of Blue Stack, the granite is +precipitous, and one bold bluff west of this lake (Belshade), +with a sort of little cave in its face, may be taken in the ascent +of the mountain. Most of the granite portions of the range are +rounded, flowing, gently contoured, barren slopes of bare +rock, sometimes at low elevations becoming steep and difficult. +The ascent of Blue Stack from Lough Eske should on +no account be missed. The lake is about 10 miles round, +and most beautifully situated at the southern base of a bold +mass of rugged, desolate granitic bosses and cliffs, cleft by a +few fairly steep ravines. In direct contrast to this sombre +scene is the west shore of the lake, which is girt with timber,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> +chiefly natural. Ardnamona is the nearest portion of this +sylvan scene to the mountain base, and the whole basin is +admirably sheltered by the surrounding mountains from the +violent storms which of late years have been more destructive +than ever.</p> + +<p>From the road above Ardnamona, looking down over it +upon Lough Eske and its solemn background, the view is +perfect. It is a sort of compact Killarney, which the eye and +mind will long feast upon.</p> + +<p>North-west of Blue Stack, a couple of miles from it, lies +<i>Lavagh More</i> (2,211 ft.), a fine upstanding lump of turf-covered +schists. Schists and sandstones constitute the +greater part of these hills. From Lavagh More, descending +southwards, by a series of lakes, the head of the Shrule +River is reached, in a valley with a precipitous northern side, +which gives difficult bits of crag work. In this valley at +the northern end lies a waterfall known as the Grey Mare's +Tail.</p> + +<p>The Blue Stack Mountains are best explored from +Donegal on the south or Glenties on the west, in both of +which places there are comfortable inns. It is best to drive +to the head of Lough Eske, and it is a fine walk from that, +including most of the tops, down to Martin's Bridge, 3 +miles from Glenties, over Blue Stack, Lavagh More, and +Silver Hill.</p> + +<p>In the mountainous district around Glenties other excursions +are available. A walk to be recommended is from +Barnesmore Gap (drive of 7 miles from Donegal) across the +Croagh Gorm and Blue Stack summits to Glenties. Barnesmore<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> +Gap should by all means be visited. The mountains +on either side rise 1,500 to 1,700 ft., not quite precipitously, +but with bluffs, heavy boulders, and steep rocky faces. Cæsar +Otway gives a highly-coloured description of this impressive +scene. Another way to explore the group is to follow up the +course of the Reelan water through a peculiarly secluded and +remote valley. From Glenties to Ardara is about 4 miles, +and the latter village is a capital halting place. Fishing and +fowling can be had. The road from Ardara to Carrick, about +10 miles, passes up the wild, grand gorge of Glen Gesh by a +zigzag road, reminding one of some of the Swiss ascents. +For the sake of the varied scenery obtained by these doublings +it is almost preferable to stick to the road till near the +summit. On the south side of this glen it is bounded by a +range known as <i>Altnadewon</i> or <i>Croaghnagcaragh</i> (<i>Reek</i>, +'hill of the thicket'). A steep rock face extends from the +main road at the 'nock of the Ballagh,' or Pass, which forms +a wide amphitheatre on the north face of the highest point +of this range (1,652 ft.) For some distance it is by no means +easy to scale this declivity.</p> + +<p>Towards the southern verge of the county the coast is +low and flat, but the bold precipitous face of Ben Bulben +looks highly attractive.</p> + +<p>Before leaving Donegal it will be well to mention one +useful hint. The Ordnance maps of this county show 100-ft. +contours, which are of the utmost advantage upon any +excursion, as the height of any point attained by the +pedestrian may be fixed within a hundred feet. Very few +other parts of Ireland are thus favoured.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>The Ben Bulben Range</b> lies in the northern part of +Sligo and Leitrim; a most conspicuous object in the landscape +viewed from Slieve League across Donegal Bay. The +shapely escarpment of the nearest point looks, indeed, as if +it belonged to Donegal, which is 7 miles away. This portion +consists of <i>Cloughcorragh</i> (2,007 ft.) and <i>Ben Whiskin</i> +(1,666 ft.)</p> + +<p>These mountains are almost entirely carboniferous limestone. +Much of the group is an elevated plateau, girt round on +all sides, or nearly so, by limestone precipices, usually some +hundreds of feet high, rising from a long steep slope of débris. +The height of the cliff edges is about 1,600 ft., of which the +talus occupies about two-thirds. The cliffs are fine, but consist +largely of insecure blocks. Occasionally a fissure occurs, +permitting ascent or descent, and some very steep ones are +used on the south side of the range by turf-cutters.</p> + +<p>In consequence of this formation the pedestrian may find +himself following a long series of cliff edges, without being +able to discover a way of descent. To examine the cliffs the +proper course is to follow the sheep walk, which usually +occurs at the base of the precipices above the talus. The +walk across the range, from Bundoran to Sligo, is full of +interest to a mountaineer, and the descent into the valley +north of Sligo from <i>King's Mountain</i> is one that will never +be effaced from his memory. It is not easy to find the passages +leading down. The valley is a vast amphitheatre +almost enclosed by cliffs, sheer and, including talus, about +1,000 ft. high.</p> + +<p>It is always a pleasant experience to follow the crest of a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> +line of limestone cliffs. Similar cliffs on a smaller scale are +those of Moher and Aran, in the county Clare. It is probably +owing to the fissures and laminations of the limestone, which +afford a perfect system of internal drainage, that such cliffs +are not only dry and clean, but also free from the gullies +and valleys which, causing frequent ups and downs, sometimes +render cliff walks extremely fatiguing—near Waterford, for +example. Again, limestone grows no heather and forms +little peat, so that the usual footing is clean grass sod—very +pleasant after hummocky tussocks—and yielding 'quaas.'</p> + +<p>For these mountains Kinlough is perhaps the most convenient +centre. Manor Hamilton and Dromahaire may +also be utilised, but Bundoran and Sligo, though the latter +commands the beautiful Lough Gill, are too distant from the +hills.</p> + +<p>It may be mentioned here that there are various attractions +in Northern Ireland outside the scope of this work. +Fishing is always in reach, and of late years golf has thriven +apace. No finer links exist than those of Portsalon, Rosapenna, +Portrush, and Newcastle, and there are many others +of growing excellence.</p> + +<p>Ben Bulben is famous for its mountain flora, a valuable +report on which, by Messrs. Barrington and Cowell, has +been published by the Royal Irish Academy.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Mayo.</b> Here are the highest mountains in the west of +Ireland, Mweelrea (2,688 ft.) and Nephin (2,646 ft.)</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_166.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_166_s.jpg" width="400" height="589" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">MAYO AND CONNEMARA</span> +</div> + +<p><i>Nephin</i> is a round, isolated lump of quartzite, becoming +schistose, rapidly disintegrating on a northern spur, where<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span>the only declivities occur. For the mountaineer it is both +distant and unattractive, but on clear days—which are rare—there +is an extensive view.</p> + +<p>About 10 miles west of Nephin the axis of the Corslieve +range is struck near the middle of its almost north and south +direction. This chain of hills includes Laghdantybaun (2,369 +ft.), at the northern end, Corslieve (1,785 ft.), Nephinbeg +(2,065 ft.), and several others over 2,000 ft. The chain is +about 15 miles in length, terminating near Newport, where +fairly comfortable accommodation can be had. The northern +hills are slate or sandstone, the southern quartzite. It is +an interesting range, and the scenery is wild and rugged, +but there is little true climbing. The best way to approach +them is to drive from Leenane Inn to the Deel River, due +north, and then strike west over a wet bog, full of dunlins, +plover, and curlew.</p> + +<p><i>Achill Island</i> is about 15 miles west of Newport. +The mountainous peninsula of Curraun Achill intervenes, +and is about 7 miles across, rising to a tableland of 1,300 +to 1,500 ft. in height, composed chiefly of horizontally-stratified +sandstones and conglomerates, not very safe, but +pleasant enough to follow along by the terraces on its +north-eastern edge. Juniper is remarkably abundant here, +and, at lower levels, Mediterranean heath.</p> + +<p>On Achill Island there is a comfortable hotel at the +'missionary settlement,' which is about 10 miles from the +ferry. The settlement is at the base of Slieve More (2,204 +ft.), the highest point of Achill. This mountain is well +worthy of a visit, but far finer are the noble cliffs at Croghaun,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span>about 5 miles west of Slieve More and 2,192 ft. above +sea level.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 596px;"> +<a href="images/i_168.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_168_s.jpg" width="596" height="395" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">ACHILL HEAD</span> +</div> + +<p>Achill is mainly quartzite, which rock invariably looks +and is barren and forbidding.</p> + +<p>There are several points along these cliffs where a descent +to the sea is practicable, and plenty of climbing is obtainable +along the face of Croghaun, which may be traversed in all +directions, the cliffs having the appearance and repute of +being more inaccessible than they really are. The rock +(quartzite) is broken into screes and heavy shingle in many +places.</p> + +<p><i>Croaghpatrick</i> (2,510 ft.), famous for its unrivalled +view, and formerly called 'The Reek,' has a northern face of +precipitous declivities where the quartzite formation (as on +Nephin) gives place to schists and shales. The view to the +north of Clew Bay, with its hundreds of islets and Achill +beyond, is unsurpassably lovely. The climbing is more of a +'slither' amongst rotten footing or shingle on the northern +side. The summit is crowned with numerous cairns, being +a famous 'pattern.' The beautiful St. Dabeoc's or Connemara +heath abounds. Westport, at its foot, has an excellent hotel, +and it is better to return here from Achill, or vice versa.</p> + +<p><i>Mweelrea.</i>—Unlike the quartzite mountains, which are +usually conical or dome-shaped, Mweelrea is of a totally different +structure. Composed of Silurian slates chiefly, it forms +an extensive tableland at the north of Killary Fiord, in the +south-west corner of Mayo. It is intersected by three principal +valleys, radiating at about equal angles from Doo Lough. +One—that of Delphi and Bundorragha—runs southward to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span> +Killary. Another—that of the Glenummera river and Owenduff +river—has an easterly trend to the Eriff. The third valley +is that of Doo Lough, Lough Cullin, and Lough Connel, +which runs north-west to the sea. The names of many of +these points, such as Delphi Mountain, the highest above Doo +Lough, and Loughty Mountain, its elevated eastern spur, +ending in Glen Laur—are not given on the Ordnance map, +and were obtained from the natives. Error easily arises in +nomenclature. A hill or ridge may have a name known to a +few, or belonging to one slope, or to a people living on one +side. Again, it may lie along the boundary of two town +lands, and each may give its name to one side of it. Moreover +the pronunciation is a study in itself. Near Newport +there is a district called on the map Burrishoole, and a bay +named Bellacragher. These are pronounced 'Brizzool' and +'Ballycroy.'</p> + +<p>The Mweelrea group consists of a series of plateaux, +bounded by long ranges of precipices, ridges, and gullies, often +ending in sheer ravines. Mweelrea itself fronts the mouth +of Killary Fiord, curving in a grand tabular ridge, 2,600 ft. +high, above two small lakes at 1,200 ft. The pass of Delphi +and Doo Lough are the most imposing scenes in the west of +Ireland for wildness and sombre grandeur.</p> + +<p>The climbing is of varying difficulty. Between their +bases and the screes below tempting ledges wind upwards, +but here the strata are almost vertical, rendering them +extremely treacherous. A nasty fall impressed this peculiarity +on the writer's memory. In other places the rock +is sandstone, mixed with decomposing conglomerates—a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span> +formation worse to scale than any except the miocene trap +rocks of the Antrim coast.</p> + +<p>There is one interesting and difficult climb. A lake—Glencullin +('Glen of Hollies') Lake—lies immediately north of +Doo Lough. A stream runs into the south-west corner of +this lake out of Glencullin, starting from a series of black, +sunless precipices, seamed with gorges and well-nigh 2,000 +ft. high. These can be climbed by two gorges at least from +base to summit. The name of these cliffs is Asko Keeran +('Ridge of Mountain Ash'), and when the crest is gained a fine +walk is the reward, over Ben Bury (2,610 ft.) to the highest +point, Mweelrea (2,688 ft.), along a curved ridge one to two +miles long.</p> + +<p>One portion of the Mweelrea system—that which lies +immediately east of Fin Lough or Delphi—is known as Ben +Gorm, or Kead-na-binnian. The cliffs upon this mountain +are formed chiefly of gneiss, which breaks up into blocks, +owing to numerous transverse fissures across the lamination. +These blocks lie on one another, often on a steep slope, owing +to the roughness of their surfaces, which prevents their sliding. +They are then more dangerous even than slaty rocks, since +this very roughness beguiles a climber into feeling that the +footing is safe at a steeper angle than on the smoother surfaces, +while the rocks are merely in unstable equilibrium.</p> + +<p>Maamtrasna, Slieve Partry, the Formnamore Mountains, +or Letterbrickaun ('Wet Hill of Badgers'), abut upon the head +of Killary Fiord. The highest points, or rather flats, are +Devils Mother (2,131 ft.), Maamtrasna (Formnamore) (2,239 +and 2,209 ft.) They are chiefly composed of sandstone and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> +sandstone conglomerate, and form a series of high barren +tablelands, dotted with pools, and of no interest whatever.</p> + +<p>The above group, as well as Mweelrea, is within easy +reach of the excellent Leenane Inn at Killary.</p> + +<p><i>Cliffs.</i>—Of the numerous magnificent cliffs on the western +seaboard of Ireland none, in the writer's opinion, excel those +of North Mayo. Certain aspects of Slieve League are grander, +the cliffs of Moher are more splendidly symmetrical, Horn +Head, Dunaff Head, Achill, all have their glories, but the +Mayo cliffs are unmatched for extent and variety. From +Ballina by Ballycastle to Belmullet, round the coast, is the +finest sea-cliff walk the writer has ever experienced. For +three days there was no cessation of variety in shape, in +sculpture, in colouring of the precipices, always lofty and +always plunging into a surf-like snow beneath, fringing the +blue ocean outside. Occasionally, but rarely, ravines occur, +leading to some tiny rock-bound bay. The coast here for +many miles is higher than the land inside, and the streams +flow away from the sea to the south, and then west to the +Atlantic. Perhaps the most hopeless area of undrainable +bog in Ireland lies in Western and North-Western Mayo.</p> + +<p>Although it was impossible to omit mention of these cliffs, +they are not for the climber. They are too sheer, and, what +is worse, there is no accommodation. From Ballycastle west +to Belderg is within reach. But it is west of Belderg that +the cliffs are grandest, as at Glinsk, Doonmara, and Benwee +Head. Without the happy fortune which enabled the writer +to use a shooting lodge, located west of Belderg, the distances +would have been impossible without camping out.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span></p> + +<p>From Belderg to Belmullet the rock is chiefly a hard +and reliable quartzite, often seamed with dykes of basalt. +Numerous needle-shaped islets, stacks, and stookawns occur. +The whole coast abounds with sea fowl, and is singularly free +from human influence, since the absence of bays, strands, or +harbours renders long stretches of it uninhabitable even for +fishermen.</p> + +<p>Otway's <i>Sketches in Erris and Tyrawley</i> (1841) should +be read.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Galway Mountains.</b>—The Galway Mountains, besides +the Maamtrasna range, spoken of above, are <i>Maamturk +range</i>, <i>Benchoona</i>, <i>Bennabeola</i> or <i>Twelve Bens</i> (or 'Pins').</p> + +<p><i>Maamturk range</i>, including the hills which form such +a conspicuous feature in Joyce's Country, extend, roughly +speaking, from the Killary Hotel south-east to Lough +Shindilia, at the Half-way House on the coach road from +Clifden to Galway. It forms a zigzag series of beehive-shaped +domes, connected by ridges, which are frequently 500 ft. to +1,000 ft. below the neighbouring summits. Usually these +connecting ridges are set at angles with the tops quite at +variance with the main axis of the chain, and are invisible +from the summits, so that compass bearings are most misleading.</p> + +<p>These truncated mounds are composed mainly of gneiss, +sometimes of quartzite, and in the northern portion the chain +becomes more fertile and of a clayey, schistose nature. They +are very similar to the Twelve Bens, save that the latter have +their conical tops still adhering, apparently showing that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> +this elongated line was more vulnerable than the self-protecting +'Pins' cluster.</p> + +<p>This chain is singularly barren, but so bold and conspicuous +a feature in the landscape claims exploration. The +writer once traversed the whole length of summits from the +Half-way House to Leenane in a walk, or climb, for about +14 hours. The going is often excessively rugged and +wearisome, owing to the loose detritus of heavy, angular +quartzose blocks. An occasional oasis, as at Maumeen, +charms the eye with its verdure and some botanical treasures. +Near this an hotel once existed, but at present there is nothing +nearer than Glendalough or Leenane, at the extreme ends of +the range.</p> + +<p>Many a stiff bit of climbing, short and sharp, was met +with on this most severe day's work, in making growingly +reckless short cuts from summit to summit. From Leckavrea +to the Killary there are about fifteen distinct summits, +averaging 2,000 ft. in height.</p> + +<p><i>Benchoona</i> (1,975 ft.), a northern outlier of the Twelve +Bens, lies at the mouth of the Killary, opposite Mweelrea. +Killary Harbour or Fiord runs inland eastwards for some +15 miles. Benchoona is gneissose, with two summits, +close on 2,000 ft., and a lake lies between them. Several +Alpine plants occur among the north-east cliffs. The +rock here is uncommonly dangerous to climb, being loosely +constructed and apt to disintegrate in unexpectedly massive +segments. On such an occasion, although against the dogma +of climbing, a swift and sudden jump or spring is sometimes +the only escape. The block—perhaps a ton or two in weight—which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> +is quietly sliding, or more probably overturning, with +its captive, yields momentum enough for a final kick to clear +out altogether to any preferable station. These rocks are +unfit to climb, and will only be meddled with for some special +purpose.</p> + +<p><i>Twelve Bens</i> (2,391 ft.), within easy access of first-class +hotels in Connemara, are huddled together in beautiful confusion, +and offer problems of special interest in their puzzling +geography and watershed system. Bennabeola is entered +by no roads of any great penetration, but there are several +valleys forming arteries with its very heart. Of these Glen +Inagh from the east, Glen Coaghan from the south, and +Owenglin from the west are the most important. The best +method is to select a glen—Glen Coaghan for choice—and +work to its head. Two or three summits will then probably +lie equidistant. Most of these summits are of quartzite, with +short heavy screes, white and extremely barren. The most +interesting climb is upon the north of Muckanaght (2,150 ft.), +which is connected with Benfree by a ridge at about 1,000 ft. +The cliffs lie about 1,300 to 1,800 ft., and from near their +upper edge to the summit (2,150 ft.) is a steep and perilous +grassy slope.</p> + +<p>Muckanaght is about 2½ miles from the lovely Kylemore +Lake. Two 'Pins,' Benbaunbeg and Benfree, intervene. +The peak itself is connected by ridges with Bencullagh +and Benbaun South. From Muckanaght the heart of +Bennabeola is laid bare, and, given a clear day, no better +point of vantage could be desired.</p> + +<p>The Twelve Bens are in the heart of some of the loveliest<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> +scenery in the world, full of varied and interesting scrambles, +and botanically they are pre-eminently the richest in +mountain plants in Connaught, Croaghpatrick coming next.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Clare.</b>—<i>The Cliffs of Moher</i> may be visited from +excellent quarters at Lisdoonvarna (the 'Fort in the Gap'), in +the north-west of Clare, a district known as the Burren. +This district is formed of the carboniferous limestone which +occupies most of Central Ireland.</p> + +<p>This formation, replete with carboniferous fossils, is remarkably +monotonous and symmetrical. When it occurs in +a cliff formation, as at Moher, or the south-western sides of +the Aran Islands, it forms a sheer wall, absolutely vertical, +to the sea, or else it is arranged in a series of terraces, like +gigantic steps. Very rarely a chasm occurs, connecting two +terraces. More often it is possible, by means of slight protruding +ledges, to ascend an almost vertical face, since the +rock is invariably either absolutely safe or easy to test. +Sometimes, as at the southern end of the Moher cliffs, isolated +pillars of rock occur, which are most pleasing to climb and +pleasant to remain perched upon when climbed.</p> + +<p>These rocky surfaces of Aran and Burren are very tiresome +and difficult to traverse, as the fissures (2-12 in. in width) +between the blocks are often adjacent. The rock is usually +cut into slabs, generally rectangular in shape. The loose +blocks are piled by the inhabitants into tottering walls, which +are difficult either to cross or upset with safety. The easiest +way is to ascend gently and then jump with a kick behind. +On Aran especially the going is most laborious.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a href="images/i_177.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_177_s.jpg" width="600" height="334" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">CLIFFS OF MOHER</span> +</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span></p> + +<p>As an instance of the sheerness of these cliffs on Aran +boys may be seen fishing with a rodless line from their edge, +200 ft. above the water. Inland these cliffs run gradually +in a series of irregular declivities, a gently sloping flagged +platform to low levels.</p> + +<p>Much is done here by the natives in the way of egg-collecting, +with the assistance of ropes, the eggs being chiefly +those of guillemots, gulls, and razor-bills, and required for +food.</p> + +<p>The cliff scenery of Moher is superb and unequalled. It +has not the variety of stack, needle, ravine, that other formations +have, but its very regularity is most harmoniously +imposing. On the other hand, the brilliant and varying +colouring of North Mayo or Slieve League, in Donegal, is +entirely absent.</p> + +<p>The Aran Islands are visited from Galway by steamer. +There is an hotel on the north island. They are full of +ethnological and archæological interest.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Co. Down.</b> <i>Mourne Mountains.</i>—This chain of granite +hills covers an elliptic space of about 15 miles by 6, +the longer axis stretching from Newcastle to Rosstrevor, +where there are excellent hotels. From either point to the +other is a day's walk that will well repay the labour, and can +be made to include all the principal summits. The descent +to Newcastle, through Donard Lodge woods, by the waterfall, +is very pretty, and by varying the night's accommodation a +still more beautiful route lies through Tollymore Park to +Bryansford, where good quarters are obtainable.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a href="images/i_179.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_179_s.jpg" width="600" height="415" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">MOURNE MOUNTAINS</span> +</div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span></p> + +<p>The highest points lie at the Newcastle or north-east +extremity of the group. The southern portions are less +interesting, and the western flanks are very dreary.</p> + +<p>These hills, being of granite, have few precipices, many +rounded summits, sloping sides, and heavy screes, of the +usual uncomfortable angular nature. The 'Eagle's Cliff,' +a mile to the north of Slieve Donard, affords some climbing, +and a little rock exercise can be had at 'the Castles,' lying on +a spur of Slieve Commedagh, to the west of Slieve Donard, +below it and half a mile away.</p> + +<p>Slieve Bingian, in the south-east of the range, has a little +easy climbing.</p> + +<p>There is also a considerable cliff on a shoulder north-west +of Slieve Meel-more. It is known as Spellick, and is easily +visited from Bryansford. It is worth examination, but the +writer has not climbed it.</p> + +<p>The view from Slieve Donard is, of course, famous.</p> + +<p>The ascent from Bryansford, through Tullymore Park, +taking Slieve Commedagh and the Castles <i>en route</i>, is +perhaps the finest walk, so far as scenery is concerned, to be +had in this picturesque cluster of mountains.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Co. Dublin.</b>—<i>Lambay</i> is an island abounding in sea +fowl and wild flowers, about 2½ miles from the nearest point +of land, and about 10 miles north-east of Dublin. It is best +approached by boat from Donabate, or less conveniently from +Howth, Malahide, Rush, or Skerries.</p> + +<p>The cliffs reach about 250 ft., and are practically sheer +in many places, as on the north-east side at Freshwater Bay,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span> +or a little west of it, and on the south-east cliffs below +Raven's Well.</p> + +<p>Several most interesting climbs are to be obtained on it. +The best are on those cliffs west of Freshwater Bay.</p> + +<p>About 30 ft. above the water's edge at high-water mark +there is a narrow and deep horizontal fissure, which in May +is packed with breeding sea fowl. The ornithological +visitor will at once feel it his duty to reach that fissure. +The writer's first visit to Lambay was made in the company +of one Dykes, known to be the best clifter on Howth. He +pronounced this fissure inaccessible. There is a bend in the +cliffs leading to the right-hand extremity of the fissure. +Here lay the only chance, and the first two grips out of the +boat are easy enough, raising one 6 or 8 ft. (or perhaps +15 if the tide is out) above the water. After that there +are two enormous stretches, with practically no foothold. If +these two points are passed, the fissure is in reach, and an +ugly wriggle will land the unwelcome intruder on his +anterior surface upon the narrow ledge forming its base.</p> + +<p>Dykes meantime was highly encouraging, calling out, +'Madness,' 'Break your neck,' 'You can never get down.' +The climber had, however, an original plan of descent, and +having, with considerable difficulty, divested himself of his +garments, he dropped them first into the boat and then himself +into the water.</p> + +<p>On revisiting these cliffs ten years later, and pointing out +this climb to a very good rock-man, he failed to see how the +climb was done, and so it had to be done again. This time, +however, the tide was out, and on stripping to take the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> +plunge it became at once apparent that a rock exactly in the +line of descent was too near the surface. To climb down had +always appeared dangerous, on account of the lack of foothold +and the very awkward nature of the backward movement out +of the fissure. So an attempt was made on the wall above.</p> + +<p>It is marvellous how a naked man can adhere to a cliff. +For a full hour an unhappy preadamite man writhed and +glued himself against the face of that cliff, descending and +reascending by new lines, but always checked by a straight +wall about 150 ft. up. Anything appeared better than that +hateful descent. Some friends ran to a coastguard station a +mile or more away for a rope. However before they +reappeared the descent was faced and safely accomplished.</p> + +<p>This sketch will serve to show that high mountains are +by no means necessary for the practice of rock-climbing, +the very best of which is constantly attainable along the +coast. Owing to the working of the ocean waves unsafe +pieces are almost certainly removed, and the cliff, at its lower +parts at any rate, is invariably firm and safe. It is fine +sport to choose a steep rocky coast at, say, half-tide in spring, +and travel between high and low water marks as far as +may be during the six hours. It should be a point of honour +not to ascend, but if forced to take to the water excellent +practice and much amusement is obtainable in this way, and +the slippery nature of the rock teaches sureness of foot. +Nailed boots are, of course, indispensable.</p> + +<p>The geological formation of Lambay is principally +felstone porphyry. Some stratified Silurian shales and limestone +occur, and there is a small sheet of old red sandstone,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> +with conglomerates. The rock is in general hard and +reliable.</p> + +<p><i>Howth</i> is a promontory with a village about 9 miles +from Dublin, for the people of which it is a favourite resort. +From Balscaddan Bay, on the north, to an almost opposite +point, Drumleck Point, on the south, the east coast is composed +of cliffs (200-300 ft.), sometimes abrupt, sometimes +ending above in grass slopes, very slippery in hot weather, +which have caused many accidents.</p> + +<p>A very interesting scramble, with many nasty traverses +over these steep grass slopes, may be had round Howth Head. +Keeping to the upper edge of the rocks, it is necessary to +ascend once at Kilrock, but after that the whole headland +may be climbed at about the medium height of the cliffs. +On the way a 'needle' or 'stack' will here and there +attract attention, and perhaps seem worth assaulting. About +Piper's Gut a small gully is difficult to pass. North of that +a saddle rock leads to a pinnacle, but it is of rotten rock. The +cliffs of this part of Howth are exceedingly picturesque, but +in some places they are extremely unsafe. From Howth, on +a very clear day, the Welsh hills, apparently those about +Penmaenmawr, are visible.</p> + +<p><i>Ireland's Eye.</i> A small rocky island, 340 ft. high, about +a mile north of Howth. At its north-east corner there +is a bold columnar rock with a tabular summit, partly +severed from the island. On its outer face it is very sheer, +and to gain the summit is a very short but interesting and +somewhat difficult climb. The return is not so bad, as a +sidelong spring saves a portion of the worst bit.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Wicklow.</b>—Wicklow forms the third county in Ireland +in which the mountains rise to a height of over 3,000 ft., +Kerry and Tipperary being the other two.</p> + +<p>The higher mountains lie in the broad band of granite +formation which extends in a nearly southerly direction from +near Dublin through Wicklow and Carlow counties.</p> + +<p>Being granite they are as a rule round masses of wide +extent, often covered with peat bogs; so that although +Wicklow contains the most continuous extent of elevated +(over 1,000 ft.) moorland in Ireland, there are few cliffs of +any consequence, and no peaks or summits presenting upon +any side material of interest to the rock-climber. Nevertheless +there are fine stretches of mountain, affording excellent +training ground. What cliffs there are occupy the most +lovely scenery in one of the loveliest Irish counties.</p> + +<p><i>Powerscourt Waterfall.</i>—The rocks to the left of the +fall, which is kindly left open to the public by Lord Powerscourt, +the popular landlord, are nasty, especially in wet or +frosty weather. Although not much over 250 feet in height +several lives have been lost in this ascent, chiefly, no doubt, +owing to the inexperience of the unfortunate visitors. This +dangerous though tempting portion has been for several years +railed off, and is not supposed to be trespassed upon. During +the severe winter of the present year (February 1895) the +waterfall presented an Arctic appearance. An interesting +account of an ascent of it, or rather of the above-mentioned +rocks, was sent to an Irish paper in that month. The climb +was effected by a friend of the writer's (a member of the +Alpine Club) and another, with ropes and ice axes. The cliff<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> +was covered with ice and snow. The same party ascended +Djonce (2,384 ft.), which lies above the waterfall, during a +blizzard at a temperature of 18°, upon the same day. Unhappily +a very few days afterwards a promising young life +was lost upon these very rocks. The falls are visited by very +large numbers of holiday-makers.</p> + +<p>The rocks of Powerscourt, which lie against the Wicklow +granites, are composed of metamorphic beds of gneiss and +schists. Powerscourt is about 7 miles from Bray.</p> + +<p><i>Tonelagee Mountain</i> ('Back to the Wind' Mountain) +(2,694 ft.), a round mass of moorland, has on the northern +shoulder a crater-like valley, containing a tarn, Lough +Ouler, and cliffs of schistose, some 400 to 500 ft. high, +descending from near the summit to the margin of the lake. +An interesting scramble may be made from the Military +Road, about a mile above Glenmacanass Waterfall, which +lies some 6 miles from Glendalough Hotel; but a short cut +to Lough Ouler is easily found by going up the Glendasan +valley 3 miles towards Wicklow Gap, and then striking +up northwards over the shoulder of Tonelagee.</p> + +<p>Wicklow county is very poor in highland plants, and +these cliffs alone possess species of any interest.</p> + +<p>Other cliffs in county Wicklow are those of Luggielaw +('Hollow of the Hill'), above Lough Tay; the Eagle's Nest, +above Lower Lough Bray; a small series of bluffs above +Lough Nahanagan, and the Prisons of Lugnaquilia. In winter +the latter, lying high (2,700 to 3,039 ft.), afford excellent +glissading and cornice work. But, unless the season is severe +there is too much heavy trudging to be done. All the above<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span> +precipices lie in most attractive scenery, nor must the famous +cliff above Glendalough, containing St. Kevin's Bed, be +omitted. But none of them affords desirable scope for climbing +practice. The granite 'Prisons' of Lugnaquilia are +attractive in appearance, but all the cliff faces are ready to +drop to pieces. Mullaghclevaun ('Summit with the Cradle' +or 'Creel'), 2,783 ft., contains no climbing.</p> + +<p>Since Wicklow affords the nearest opportunities to Dublin +mountaineers, we may mention a few one-day walks from +that city which have been accomplished by the writer.</p> + +<p>Practically the only artery through these mountains is +the <i>Military Road</i>, constructed after the rebellion of 1798 to +connect a series of now disused barracks. This road, from +'Billy's Bridge' at Upper Rathfarnham, about 5 miles +from Dublin, is over 35 miles to Aughavanagh. It passes +through an almost uninhabited country, and much of +it lies from 1,000 to 1,500 feet above sea level, and it is the +pedestrian's main anxiety to regain the comparative security +of the Military Road before night sets in on the wide stretches +of tussocky moorland.</p> + +<p>To clear the suburbs it is well to take the tram to Terenure +(3 miles). Terenure; Ballinascorney Gap; Coronation Plantation +(3 to 3¼ hours); Sally Gap; Military Road; Lough +Bray (5 hours); back to Terenure (7½ hours: 34 miles).</p> + +<p>Terenure; Lough Ouler; Tonelagee summit (6 hours); +Mullaghclevaun summit (7½ hours); Ballysmutton (9½ +hours); home by Ballinascorney Gap (13½ hours: 48 miles). +From Bray this walk is about 5 miles shorter.</p> + +<p>Bray, over Bray Head, Little Sugarloaf, Big Sugarloaf<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span> +(1,680 ft.), Djonce Mountain (2,384 ft.), and Kippure (2,473 ft.); +Lough Bray, by Military Road, to Terenure: about 11 hours.</p> + +<p>Terenure; Ballinascorney Gap; Seacaun; Kippure; +Lough Bray; Terenure (about 8 hours).</p> + +<p>Terenure; Lough Bray; Kippure (2½ hours); Gravale +(2,352 ft.); Duff Hill (2,364 ft.—very heavy going); Mullaghclevaun +summit (6 hours); Tonelagee summit (7½ hours); +Lough Ouler; Military Road; Terenure (14 hours; about 50 +miles).</p> + +<p>Glendalough; Dublin (7¾ hours); Glendasan; Wicklow +Gap; summit of Tonelagee (11 hours); summit of Mullaghclevaun; +Clevaun Lake; Ballymullagh old road; across +Liffey at Ballysmutton bridge; Ballinascorney Gap; Terenure +(20 hours, including rests and delays by bog; 62 miles).</p> + +<p>Terenure; Lough Bray (3 hours); Laragh (7½ hours); +Glenmalure; Drumgoff Hotel (9 hours 5 minutes—1½ hour's +rest); Lugnaquilia (3,039 ft., 12¾ hours); Tonelagee summit +(16¼ hours); Mullaghclevaun summit (17 hours 40 minutes); +Ballysmutton farm (19 hours 40 minutes—35 min. rest); +Ballinascorney Gap; Terenure (23 hours 50 minutes; 75 +miles).</p> + +<p>The ascent of Lugnaquilia direct from Glendalough, over +Lugduff, round the head of Glenmalure, and up by Kelly's +Lough is perhaps the finest walk in Wicklow.</p> + +<p>It is a fine day's walk along the coast from Bray to Arklow, +or Bray to New Rath Bridge, and thence by the Devil's Glen +to Glendalough.</p> + +<p>In a wild, uncultivated county, like Wicklow, experience +in the use of map and compass may be gained by setting a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> +course from Woodenbridge to Glendalough, about 12 +miles, or from Glendalough to the Scalp or Sugarloaf, on +the way to Dublin, some 40 miles.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Kerry.</b>—<i>Brandon</i> (3,127 ft.) is of the same formation as +that of the Reeks, i.e. the lower old red sandstone. The +Brandon rocks are, in general, hard grits, firm and good to +climb.</p> + +<p>The accommodation on this promontory of Corkaguiny is +no doubt improved since the construction of Mr. Balfour's +light railway from Tralee to Dingle; but Dingle lies 8 miles +to the south of Brandon.</p> + +<p>I obtained very inferior accommodation at Cloghane, on +an inlet at the eastern base of the mountain; and cleaner and +better, but not so convenient, from a coastguard at Ballydavid, +to the west of Brandon. For the other mountains on the promontory, +Castle Gregory is centrally situated, but in all these +cases (except Dingle) it is highly advisable to make previous +arrangements and supplement the native fare with a hamper.</p> + +<p>The coast of the Brandon promontory (which was traversed +throughout) is often highly precipitous; indeed, from Cloghane +on the north to Anniscaul on the south the western extremity +is almost entirely so, and many stiff bits of climbing +were accomplished, whether in pursuit of scenery, of a direct +course, of objects of natural history, or, perhaps, more frequently +out of what an Irishman would call 'natural divilment.' +A few years ago no language would have sufficed in +abuse of the accommodation at Anniscaul, but, as it is now a +railway station, no doubt this is all changed.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a href="images/i_189.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_189_s.jpg" width="400" height="375" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">KERRY</span> +</div> + +<p><i>Brandon Peak and Brandon Summit.</i>—The most +enjoyable way to make the first acquaintance with these +mountains is to ascend Connor Hill, to the north-west of +Dingle, and follow the ridge by Beenduff, Ballysitteragh, +Geashane, and Brandon Peak to the summit. The peak is +about 400 ft. lower than and a little south of Brandon proper. +Along this ridge, looking north and north-west, there is a fine +rocky face before reaching the peak. After that point a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> +range of cliffs, several hundred feet in altitude, meets the +loftier cliffs above Lake Nalacken, looking east. At the head +of the Feany valley, under Brandon, these cliffs afford an +interesting descent. The range gives plenty of practice in +rock work.</p> + +<p>Alpine plants occur mainly on the north and north-east +cliffs, and are more numerous than on the loftier Reeks.</p> + +<p><i>Brandon from Cloghane.</i>—From Cloghane the ascent +may be made amongst fine cliffs and rock-climbing, by +making south-east for Lough Cruttia, the largest lake under +Brandon to its east. It is better to follow the road southwards +a mile or two, to save uninteresting moorland. From +this lake it is a short distance to the north-west of Lough +Nalacken, and by striking in east at once to the cliffs a good +climb is obtainable. Lough Cruttia is about 700 ft. above +sea level. Between the upper lough and the cliffs the surface +is a desolate extent of polished naked grits, strewn with +boulders. Crossing this a somewhat dangerous gully leads +up to the cliffs at about 1,650 ft. The ascent of this is about +300 ft., and a stiff climb and afterwards some 400 ft. of cliffs +may be tackled in various ways.</p> + +<p>There are numerous ledges, and it is the best botanical +ground in the mountains. The cliffs 'go' splendidly. In a +lake south of the two mentioned above, locally named Lough +Bawn, or the 'White Lake,' lives the enormous 'carrabuncle.' +It appears fitfully at night, glittering like silver in the water +with gold and silver and precious stones hanging to it galore. +It is partly covered with shells, which are lined with gold. +Upon one occasion several men went to the lake at night and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span> +dived in oilskins to catch this valuable monster. They did +not catch him; but pearl mussels, no doubt shed from the +carrabuncle, are found in the lake.</p> + +<p><i>Brandon Point and Brandon Head.</i>—From Cloghane +it is a fine hard walk right round Brandon Point and +Brandon Head. At the cliffs of Slieveglass (1,050 ft.) a bay +of extreme grandeur is opened, bound on three sides by lofty +precipices and with a depth and sea frontage of about half a +mile. There is a shepherd's settlement, Arraghglin, on the +coast, which has to be closely approached. A more bleak +habitation can hardly be conceived; neither road nor even +track leads to it. It is now several hours' work to round the +sea face of Brandon Head, at altitudes varying from 500 to +1,200 ft., to Ballydavid. If accommodation has not been +arranged for here the walk to Dingle will be found most +wearisome, and at all trouble a car should be provided.</p> + +<p><i>Macgillicuddy's Reeks</i> contain the highest summits +in Ireland. They extend from the Gap of Dunloe, the +eastern extremity, to the Beenbane spur near Glencar, +about 10 miles west from the Gap. The scenery is magnificent. +From Lake Auger, in the Gap, the climber ascends at +once by a series of precipitous bluffs to an elevation of about +2,000 ft. Still ascending along a serrated ridge, an elevation +of about 3,000 ft. is reached above Lough Cummeenapeasta, +about 2½ miles west of the Gap of Dunloe. For several +miles this ridge can be traversed at about the above +altitude. The ridge frequently becomes a mere knife-edge, +and in several places descends abruptly and precipitously to +some of the numerous tarns and cooms nestling 1,000 to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span> +1,500 ft. below. A more perfect mountain excursion can +hardly be conceived. The ridge carries us to the shoulder of +Carran Tuohill, and from its summit a northern branch +extends to Beenkeragh (3,314 ft.) and to Skregmore (2,790 ft.) +The axis proper continues to Caher (3,200 ft.) and Curraghmore +(2,680 ft.) Here we reach a gap connecting Cummeenacappul +(Horse's Valley) with the Valleys of Caragh and +Cummeenduff, or the Black Valley. West of it is the Beenbane +spur, a lower elevation of no interest. The Reeks are +chiefly composed of hard green and purple grits, and +sandstone of old red sandstone age. The rocks are generally +firm and safe to climb amongst.</p> + +<p>There is a comfortable angler's hotel at Glencar, at the +western end of the Reeks. This is the best adapted for the +immediate neighbourhood of the higher points, but to reach +some of the most interesting climbing it is better to distribute +one's attentions equally between Killarney and Glencar. +From Killarney (Railway Hotel) two methods are available—one +by car to the Gap of Dunloe, or further to the Hag's +Glen, up a steep mountain road, and from either of these as +starting-point some excellent rock work is available. From +the Gap as starting-point a long day can be spent, descending +at night to Glencar Hotel. The other method is to boat from +Killarney (enjoying exquisite scenery) to Lord Brandon's +cottage at the western extremity of the upper lake. Here +begins a long, dull ascent, rewarded by the splendid view from +the ridge into the heart of the Reeks. Or these routes can +be reversed.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a href="images/i_193.jpg"> +<img src="images/i_193_s.jpg" width="600" height="389" alt="" title="" /> +</a> +<span class="caption">SKETCH MAP OF + +KILLARNEY</span> +</div> + +<p>Guides swarm here. None of these have the slightest<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span>knowledge of climbing, and should one be engaged the first +deviation from the easiest ascent, or departure into gully or +ravine, will put a conclusion to his services. A wiry, bragging, +long-legged shepherd undertook to accompany the writer +by any ascent he selected from the Hag's Glen to Carran +Tuohill, to be paid five shillings at the summit. At the foot +of the first gully, with many heart-felt remonstrances and +gesticulations, he disappeared, not even thinking it worth +while to make an easier ascent. On this account it is all +the more necessary to be unfailingly provided with the +Ordnance map and a thoroughly good compass. An aneroid +barometer is also of great assistance, especially in mist, for +a knowledge of the altitude often enables a lake or a peak to +be identified.</p> + +<p><i>Cumloughra</i> (3,100 ft.)—Starting from Glencar Hotel, +a few tedious miles bring us across a country road to Lake +Acoose (507 ft.) Passing round the south edge of the lake, a +ridge (about 900 ft.) is crossed, and ere long Lake Eighter, at +the entrance to Cumloughra (1,500 ft.), is reached. If we +pass along the shores of the lake to the south-western edge, +a few hundred feet up an open gully brings us to a series of +cliffs south-west from Cumloughra lake. The rock is sound, +and a fine, almost vertical ascent of 1,000 ft. may be made, +striking the ridge of Caher (3,000 ft.) 200 ft. below the +summit. It is a severe climb and very long, entailing many +zigzags. There is no main gully to adhere to, and the cliffs +are less impracticable than they look. Along the west side +of the two lakes the cliffs are easier.</p> + +<p><i>Carran Tuohill</i> (3,414 ft.)—Cars from Killarney stop<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> +at the Geddagh River. Cross it, sweep to the right and +back, and then follow the valley by a fair path between +two lakes to the Devil's Ladder and up it to the <i>col</i>. The +summit is then on the right hand. The writer was once +fortunate enough to ascend this summit through a cloud layer +of about 1,500 ft. thick, which ceased a short distance below +the summit. Above was a clear blue sky, and peering out of +the dense white, snowlike bed of mist Caher and Brandon (the +latter 30 miles to the north-west, the former not a mile away) +alone were visible—a never to be forgotten sight, which +seemed shut out entirely from earthly considerations. +Descending <i>into</i> the clouds, the ridge leading southwards +towards Cummeenoughter, or Devil's Looking Glass (Upper +Coom), was taken by mistake, and an exceedingly nasty +traverse across huge, dangerously sloping slabs was necessary +in order to regain Carran Tuohill and find the Caher ridge.</p> + +<p><i>Beenkeragh</i> (3,100 ft.)—Between Beenkeragh and +Skregmore (2,600 ft.) there lies an inviting glen, sunk in +black precipices. These cliffs are to be avoided. At several +points an attempt was made to scale them, but the rock is +most rotten. Near Beenkeragh is a ridge running a little +west of north for half a mile, and bounding the Devil's +Looking Glass and the Hag's Glen on their west. This ridge is +reached by an easy gully known as the <i>Devil's Ladder</i>, about +300 ft. below Beenkeragh.</p> + +<p><i>Devil's Looking Glass</i> (Cummeenoughter). This tarn +lies at the head of the Hag's Glen, at an elevation of +2,500 ft. It is three-parts encircled by a fine series of cliffs. +At the western corner of this bold girth of precipices the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> +finest view in the Reeks may be obtained, looking over the +Looking Glass, and the lakes below in the Hag's Glen, across +heights and peaks and valleys to Cummeenapeasta. Excellent +climbing is to be had here. The rock is a purple sandstone, +and one shoulder of an inaccessible appearance can be +climbed throughout, owing to the firmness of grip and the +recurrence of suggestive little footholds.</p> + +<p><i>Lake Auger</i> (Gap of Dunloe).—These cliffs terminate +upwards in the Bull's Mountain at about 1,500 ft. The lake +is about 350 ft. above sea level. Almost immediately after +leaving the lake we come upon a series of bluffs and terraces +occasionally communicating with one another, but more +often uniting to form smooth-faced walls. Great care and +discrimination have to be exercised in selecting ledges that do +not terminate upon such faces, as there is little hand grip, +and turning to retrace one's steps is most unpleasantly +difficult and dangerous. The climbing here is most excellent +and exciting, but the writer often felt sorely in need of a +companion and a rope. It is in such places as these, inaccessible +to sheep and goats, that hawkweeds occur, and +in search of these, places were reached which rendered the +summit of Bull's Mountain (when gained) extremely +welcome.</p> + +<p><i>The Hag's Glen.</i>—Making the ascent from here to the +westward, we reach another valley between Hag's Glen and +Old Finglas River. At about 1,800 ft. a very black gully +leads up to the main ridge from its northern side. It is +occasionally blocked with huge masses of rock, which render +détours along the boundary walls necessary, and, as is often<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span> +the case, it becomes very difficult afterwards to regain the +gully. This gully is a very tough climb. The Hag's teeth +(there are two) are conical knobs of no difficulty, along a +ridge running into the glen.</p> + +<p><i>Lake Googh</i> (1,600 ft.)—This lake lies on the south +side of the main axis of the Reeks. Above it rises to the +northwards a series of coombs, or high-lying valleys, which +can be traversed by separate and often interesting scrambles +till the main ridge is reached. This is a very interesting +ascent. It is often rather a matter of chance whether +the gully selected will be available to its end for the next +coomb level, and a retracement of steps will frequently +have to be effected. Nothing is less pleasing than to have +to go back down a gully which it was a small triumph +to have ascended in safety. This valley is singularly dark, +damp, and grand; and it is more rich in ferns than any +other portion of the Reeks.</p> + +<p><i>Cloon Lake and Lough Reagh.</i>—Although these cliffs +are not a portion of the Reeks, they are mentioned here +as being easily reached from Glencar Hotel. They lie +south of Lough Reagh, which is separated only by a +marsh from Lough Cloon, and are a most superbly rugged +cluster of sugar-loaf peaks huddled together and often +separated by sheer precipices and inaccessible ravines. +Unfortunately they are of easy access from the southern or +Sneem side. Many gullies of sound rock occur. Bad weather +on two different visits rendered climbing here an unpleasant +experience, but enough was seen to enable the writer to +pronounce the district well worthy of a visit. <i>Mount Aitchin</i><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span> +(Whin Mount) is the chief summit. Golden eagles bred +recently amongst these cliffs.</p> + +<p>Coming down once from these mountains towards +Lough Reagh, facing northwards, in a blinding mist, an +uncommon sort of descent was obtained. Not knowing the +nature of the ground, or indeed our whereabouts, we +struck blindly over a declivity, turning at length to a +sheer cliff whose termination was invisible. This cliff or +series of cliffs is broken into ledges, all coated with a long +growth of woodrush. Glissading and holding on brought us +in unexpected safety to the valley below. Return would have +been impossible by the way of our descent.</p> + +<p>Other mountains in the neighbourhood of Killarney +are <i>Mangerton</i> (2,756 ft.); <i>Toomies</i> (2,415 ft.); <i>Purple +Mountain</i> (2,739 ft.); <i>Turc Mountain</i> (1,764 ft.), and +the <i>Paps</i> (2,268 ft.) Of these none afford any real climbing. +On Mangerton, however, the Horse's Glen is surrounded +by rocky declivities, and the Devil's Punch Bowl has a +slight cliff above it. From Killarney by rail to Headfort, +and then back over the Paps and Mangerton, and through +the Horse's Glen, is a fine walk. Another fine walk +is from the lake, whither one proceeds from Killarney by +boat, up Toomies Mountain, over Purple Mountain, and Turc +Mountain, and Mangerton can be included on the way back.</p> + +<p>The Eagle's Cliff, above the lake, looks climbable and is +reported to have been done. The writer, hurrying to the +Reeks, always grudged time for the attempt.</p> + +<p><i>Blasquets Islands</i> lie off the extreme west of Kerry. They +consist generally of grits and slates.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span></p> + +<p>Mr. Barrington (<i>Report on the Flora, &c.</i>) describes the +Great Blasquet as a ridge about 700 ft. high for most of its +length, but for about a mile it exceeds 900 ft. The ridge +is almost perpendicular in many places. 'The cliffs and +precipices are very grand, notably the north-western face +of the Great Blasquet and the north-eastern portion of +Inishnabro, which latter resembles, when viewed from the +sea, a cathedral 500 ft. high, the towers, spires, and even +doors and windows being represented. Inishtooskert has +an isolated pinnacle of rock, with a great chasm in the cliff +near it, scarcely less striking. The Tearaght is like a black +tooth projecting from the ocean, its sides being rocky, desolate, +and very barren.' The present writer was prevented from +reaching these islands by stormy weather.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Co. Cork.</b>—<i>Sugarloaf Mountain</i> (2,440 ft.)—An isolated, +bare, conical peak, at the head of the Black Valley (Cummeenduff), +the southern boundary of the Reeks. Sunshine after rain +makes it glitter like a snowy peak. The rock is steep and +glaciated. On the steepest face an interesting ascent may be +made—easy, but requiring extreme care.</p> + +<p>South of the Kenmare River the hills are of less interest, +though the beautiful Glengariff lies amongst them.</p> + +<p><i>Hungry Hill</i> (2,251 ft.) presents one precipitous face to +the west, where a piece of interesting gully work occurs. The +writer has reason to remember it, owing to the imprisonment +of a bull-terrier, the property of a companion, in the middle +of the climb. After completing the ascent the deafening +howls of the prisoner made it necessary to work round to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span> +base of the gully and help the beloved creature down. An +almost identical incident occurred in a worse situation in the +Poisoned Glen of Donegal. A bit of rope should be attached +to the neck of any dog that follows a rock-climber.</p> + +<p><i>Gougaun Barra</i> ('St. Fin Bar's Rock-Cleft') is a gorge +on the road west from Macroom to Bantry. The cliffs around +rise from a desolate valley to meet the slopes of the mountains, +1,700-1,800 ft. high.</p> + +<p>On the road Keimaneigh ('the Pass of the Deer') is +traversed, a gorge through the Sheha hills some 2 miles in +length. It is a scene of wild beauty, and was the head-quarters +of the band under 'Captain' Rock. This defile can +be visited from Inchigeelagh, a few miles eastwards, where +there is good fishing and accommodation.</p> + +<p>On Gougaun Barra, Otway (<i>Scenes and Sketches in +Ireland</i>) and Smith (<i>History of Cork)</i> have a good deal to say.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Tipperary.</b>—<i>The Galtee Mountains</i> extend about +15 miles from Caher at the eastern to Massy Lodge at +the western extremity. The ridge slopes gently to the south, +but abruptly to the vale of Aherlow on the north.</p> + +<p>The formation is Silurian, with overlying beds of old red +sandstone conglomerate forming the summit of Galtymore +(3,018 ft.) The Silurian beds form considerable precipices +upon the north, almost enclosing numerous tarns, from which +interesting ascents may be made.</p> + +<p>The best head-quarters for the mountains is Tipperary, +about 6 miles north of the base of the range below its highest +point. No doubt, however, accommodation could be arranged<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> +for at some of the farmhouses in the vale of Aherlow. The +entire range from Caher to Mitchelstown forms a splendid +walk. Lough Curra and Lough Muskry are the most interesting +points to make for, and lie amongst the finest cliffs. +Lough Diheen is the most remote and barren.</p> + +<p>At Lough Curra the cliffs descend 1,000 ft. sheer into +the water. These cliffs afford attractive but dangerous +climbing. They reach to within a couple of hundred feet of +the highest point, known as Dawson's Table, or Galtymore.</p> + +<p>Still grander, however, are the cliffs above Lough Muskry. +These tower to a height of about 1,200 ft. in great terraces +and vegetated walls above the north and north-east ends of +the lake. Numerous clefts, ravines, and ledges exist.</p> + +<p>Should the climber get pounded here (as not seldom +happens) let him beware of undue haste. A mouthful of food +has a wonderful effect in steadying the nerves. The holds +here are often sods of dubious security, and the Muskry precipices, +though they <i>can</i> be traversed in all directions, are the +severest amongst the Galtees.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p><b>Co. Waterford.</b> <i>Commeragh Mountains.</i>—The Commeragh +Mountains may be explored from Kilmacthomas +on the south, Clonmell on the west, or Caher on the north. +They form an elevated plateau, bounded on all sides by steep +and frequently inaccessible precipices, which enclose cooms +and tarns. The highest point is 2,597 ft., and the rock is for +the most part sandstone or conglomerate of the old red sandstone +period. Slates and shales occur on the northern side.</p> + +<p>The cliffs can be climbed in many places. As on the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> +Galtees, a few miles west, dense masses of a species of woodrush +often render the holding treacherous. Smith (<i>History of +Waterford</i>, 1774) says, 'On the sides of this chain there are +many horrid precipices, and steep declivities, with large naked +rocks. In the valleys considerable chips, or parings, lie in +prodigious heaps.'</p> + +<p>The most imposing precipices are those enclosing in a +magnificent sweep the Stilloge Lakes, on the south side of the +group; and those above Coonshingaun Lough and Crotty's +Lough at the eastern end.</p> + +<p>This east lake takes its name from one Crotty, an outlaw, +who made his home in a cave here during the last century. +Legends of this worthy abound in the district.</p> + +<p>The cliffs are often wholly inaccessible without a rope, +but a great deal of excellent climbing can be effected with no +artificial aids. In search of rare plants the writer has made +several distinct ascents above the Stilloges, and also at +Coonshingaun, quite apart from the easier gully tracks, by +which the ordinary visitor gains the top. The mountains are +singularly picturesque. The verdure-clad cliffs, overhanging +the deep, rock-bound, lonely tarns, have an effect that is at +once rare and beautiful.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>INDEX</h2> + +<table summary="links for each letter of the index" style="width:75%;" border="1"> + <tr> + <td> <a href="#IX_A">A</a></td> + <td> <a href="#IX_B">B</a></td> + <td> <a href="#IX_C">C</a></td> + <td> <a href="#IX_D">D</a></td> + <td> <a href="#IX_E">E</a></td> + <td> <a href="#IX_F">F</a></td> + <td> <a href="#IX_G">G</a></td> + <td> <a href="#IX_H">H</a></td> + <td> <a href="#IX_I">I</a></td> + <td> <a href="#IX_J">J</a></td> + <td> <a href="#IX_K">K</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td> <a href="#IX_L">L</a></td> + <td> <a href="#IX_M">M</a></td> + <td> <a href="#IX_N">N</a></td> + <td> <a href="#IX_O">O</a></td> + <td> <a href="#IX_P">P</a></td> + <td> <a href="#IX_R">R</a></td> + <td> <a href="#IX_S">S</a></td> + <td> <a href="#IX_T">T</a></td> + <td> <a href="#IX_W">W</a></td> + <td> <a href="#IX_Y">Y</a></td> + </tr> +</table> + + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a id="IX_A" name="IX_A"></a>Aber, <a href="#Page_1">1</a></li> +<li>Aberglaslyn, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> +<li>Abergynolwyn, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> +<li>Accidents, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_54">54</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_70">70</a>, <a href="#Page_72">72</a>, <a href="#Page_73">73</a>, <a href="#Page_82">82</a>, <a href="#Page_86">86</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a>, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a>, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> +<li>Achill, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> +<li>Anglesey, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> +<li>Antrim, <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> +<li>Aranmore Island, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li> +<li>Arans (The), <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li> +<li>Arenig Fawr, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> +<li>Asko Keeran, <a href="#Page_162">162</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a id="IX_B" name="IX_B"></a>Bala, <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li> +<li>Barmouth, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li> +<li>Barnesmore Gap, <a href="#Page_153">153</a></li> +<li>Beddgelert, <a href="#Page_3">3</a></li> +<li>Beddgelert (Snowdon from), <a href="#Page_4">4</a></li> +<li>Beenkeragh, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li> +<li>Ben Bulben, <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li> +<li>Benchoona, <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li> +<li>Benglog, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li> +<li>Berwyn Mountains, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> +<li>Bethesda, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li> +<li>Bird Rock, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> +<li>Black Ladders, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li> +<li>Black Mountains, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_126">126</a></li> +<li>Blaenau Ffestiniog, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> +<li>Blasquets, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li> +<li>Blue Stack, <a href="#Page_152">152</a></li> +<li>Braichddu, <a href="#Page_18">18</a>, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li> +<li>Brandon, <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li> +<li>Brecon Beacons, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li> +<li>Bronyfedw, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> +<li>Bryansford, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> +<li>Bull's Mountain, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li> +<li>Bunglas, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></li> +<li>Burton Port, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li> +<li>Bwlch Cwm y Llan, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> +<li>Bwlch Goch, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li> +<li>Bwlch y Saethau, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a id="IX_C" name="IX_C"></a>Caddy of Cwm Glas, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> +<li>Cader Fronwen, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> +<li>Cader Idris, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li> +<li>Cambrian Railway, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> +<li>Capel Curig, <a href="#Page_6">6</a></li> +<li>Carnarvonshire, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> +<li>Carndonagh, <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li> +<li>Carnedd Dafydd, <a href="#Page_17">17</a></li> +<li>Carnedd Llewelyn, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li> +<li>Carnedd Ugain, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li> +<li>Carnedd y Filiast, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> +<li>'Carrabuncle' (The), <a href="#Page_181">181</a></li> +<li>Carran Tuohill, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></li> +<li>Carrick Hotel, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></li> +<li>Carrig-a-Rede, <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li> +<li>Castell Cidwm, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> +<li>Castell Gwynt, <a href="#Page_34">34</a></li> +<li>Castles (The), <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> +<li>Cefnysgolion Duon, <a href="#Page_19">19</a></li> +<li>Clare Co., <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li> +<li>Clew Bay, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li> +<li>Cloghane, <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li> +<li>Clogwyn Aderyn, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> +<li>Clogwyn Penllechen, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> +<li>Clogwyn y Garnedd, <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> +<li>Clogwyn y Person, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> +<li>Clogwyndur Arddu, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> +<li>Closs (Death of), <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li> +<li>Cnicht, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> +<li>Commeragh Mountains, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> +<li>Cork Co., <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> +<li>Corris, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> +<li>Cox (Mr.), <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> +<li>Craig Ddrwg, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li> +<li>Craig Eryri, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> +<li>Craig y Bera, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> +<li>Craig yr Ysfa, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li> +<li>Craiglyn Dyfi, <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li> +<li>Crazy Pinnacle, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li> +<li>Crib Goch, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li> +<li>Crib y Ddysgl, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li> +<li>Croagh Patrick, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li> +<li>Croghaun, <a href="#Page_158">158</a></li> +<li>Cumloughra, <a href="#Page_185">185</a></li> +<li>Cwm Creigiog, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li> +<li>Cwm Dyli, <a href="#Page_68">68</a></li> +<li>Cwm Glas, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> +<li>Cwm y Llan, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li> +<li>Cyfrwy, <a href="#Page_113">113</a></li> +<li>Cynfael Falls, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> +<li>Cynicht, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a id="IX_D" name="IX_D"></a>Dawson's Table, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> +<li>Denbighshire, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> +<li>Devil's Kitchen, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> +<li>Devil's Looking Glass, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li> +<li>Devil's Punch Bowl, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li> +<li>Dinas Bran, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> +<li>Dinas Mawddwy, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li> +<li>Dingle, <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li> +<li>Dismore (Mr.), <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> +<li>Dolgelly, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li> +<li>Donegal, <a href="#Page_134">134</a></li> +<li>Down Co., <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> +<li>Dublin Co., <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> +<li>Dunaff Head, <a href="#Page_136">136</a></li> +<li>Dunfanaghy, <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li> +<li>Dungloe, <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li> +<li>Dunloe (Gap of), <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a id="IX_E" name="IX_E"></a>Eagle's Cliff, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li> +<li>Eagle's Nest, <a href="#Page_147">147</a></li> +<li>Eglwyseg, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> +<li>Elicydu, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> +<li>Elider, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> +<li>Empson (Mr.), <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li> +<li>Errigal, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li> +<li>Esgair Felen, <a href="#Page_42">42</a></li> +<li>Evans (Mr. Alf.), <a href="#Page_82">82</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a id="IX_F" name="IX_F"></a>Fair Head, <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> +<li>Fanet, <a href="#Page_137">137</a></li> +<li>Ffestiniog, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> +<li>Foelgoch, <a href="#Page_26">26</a></li> +<li>Frodsham (Mr. G. H.), <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a id="IX_G" name="IX_G"></a>Gallt y Wenallt, <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li> +<li>Galtee Mountains, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li> +<li>Galway, <a href="#Page_164">164</a></li> +<li>Gap of Doonmore, <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li> +<li>Gap of Dunloe, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li> +<li>Garnedd Goch, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li> +<li>Giant's Causeway, <a href="#Page_134">134</a></li> +<li>Glaslyn, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> +<li>Glen Car, <a href="#Page_183">183</a></li> +<li>Glen Gesh, <a href="#Page_154">154</a></li> +<li>Glen Head, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></li> +<li>Glenariff, <a href="#Page_133">133</a></li> +<li>Glenbeagh, <a href="#Page_142">142</a></li> +<li>Glengad Head, <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li> +<li>Glengariff, <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> +<li>Glyder Fach, <a href="#Page_31">31</a></li> +<li>Glyder Fawr, <a href="#Page_36">36</a></li> +<li>Golf, <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li> +<li>Gougaun Barra, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li> +<li>Grey Man's Path, <a href="#Page_131">131</a></li> +<li>Guides, <a href="#Page_183">183</a></li> +<li>Gweedore, <a href="#Page_141">141</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a id="IX_H" name="IX_H"></a>Hag's Glen, <a href="#Page_183">183</a>, <a href="#Page_187">187</a></li> +<li>Haseler (Mr. Maxwell), <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li> +<li>Hill names, <a href="#Page_161">161</a></li> +<li>Homer (Mr. Philip), <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> +<li>Horn Head, <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li> +<li>Howth, <a href="#Page_174">174</a></li> +<li>Hugh Lloyd's Pulpit, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> +<li>Hungry Hill, <a href="#Page_190">190</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a id="IX_I" name="IX_I"></a>Inishowen, <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li> +<li>Ireland's Eye, <a href="#Page_174">174</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a id="IX_J" name="IX_J"></a>Jackson (Rev. James), <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a id="IX_K" name="IX_K"></a>Keimaneigh, <a href="#Page_191">191</a></li> +<li>Kendal (Mr. E. G.), <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li> +<li>Kerry Co., <a href="#Page_179">179</a></li> +<li>Killarney, <a href="#Page_183">183</a></li> +<li>Killary, <a href="#Page_165">165</a></li> +<li>Kingsley (Charles), <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li> +<li>King's Mountain, <a href="#Page_155">155</a></li> +<li>Kinlough, <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a id="IX_L" name="IX_L"></a>Lambay, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> +<li>Leenane Inn, <a href="#Page_158">158</a>, <a href="#Page_163">163</a></li> +<li>Lisdoonvarna, <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li> +<li>Livesley (Mr.), <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li> +<li>Llaithnant, <a href="#Page_105">105</a></li> +<li>Llanberis, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> +<li>Llangynog, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> +<li>Llechog, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li> +<li>Lliwedd, <a href="#Page_74">74</a></li> +<li>Llyndulyn, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> +<li>Lough Eske, <a href="#Page_152">152</a></li> +<li>Lough Muskry, <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> +<li>Lough Salt, <a href="#Page_142">142</a></li> +<li>Lough Swilly, <a href="#Page_186">186</a></li> +<li>Lugnaquilia, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a id="IX_M" name="IX_M"></a>Maamtrasna, <a href="#Page_162">162</a></li> +<li>Maamturk, <a href="#Page_164">164</a></li> +<li>Macgillicuddy's Reeks, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li> +<li>Machynlleth, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> +<li>MacSwyne's Gun, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li> +<li>Maentwrog Road, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> +<li>Malin Head, <a href="#Page_135">135</a></li> +<li>Mangerton, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li> +<li>Marble Arch, <a href="#Page_143">143</a></li> +<li>Marzials (Miss), <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li> +<li>Maum Glen, <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li> +<li>Mayo Co., <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li> +<li>Melynllyn, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li> +<li>Merionethshire, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li> +<li>Mitchell (Mr. J.), <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li> +<li>Moel Eilio, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li> +<li>Moel Hebog, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li> +<li>Moel Siabod, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li> +<li>Moel Sych, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> +<li>Moel Wyn, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li> +<li>Moher Cliffs, <a href="#Page_167">167</a></li> +<li>Montgomeryshire, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> +<li>Mount Aitchin, <a href="#Page_188">188</a></li> +<li>Mourne Mountains, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> +<li>Muckanaght, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> +<li>Muckish, <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li> +<li>Mweelrea, <a href="#Page_160">160</a></li> +<li>Mynydd Mawr, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a id="IX_N" name="IX_N"></a>Nantlle, <a href="#Page_10">10</a></li> +<li>Nephin, <a href="#Page_156">156</a></li> +<li>Newcastle, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a id="IX_O" name="IX_O"></a>Ogwen Cottage, <a href="#Page_5">5</a></li> +<li>One Man's Pass, <a href="#Page_149">149</a></li> +<li>Orme's Head, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li> +<li>Owen (Harry), <a href="#Page_11">11</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a id="IX_P" name="IX_P"></a>Paget (Mr.), <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li> +<li>Pantylluchfa, <a href="#Page_69">69</a></li> +<li>Parson's Nose, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li> +<li>Payne (Mr.), <a href="#Page_1">1</a></li> +<li>Pen Helig, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> +<li>Penmaenmawr, <a href="#Page_16">16</a></li> +<li>Penygroes, <a href="#Page_11">11</a></li> +<li>Penygwrhyd, <a href="#Page_11">11</a></li> +<li>Penyroleuwen, <a href="#Page_18">18</a></li> +<li>'Phouca' (The), <a href="#Page_140">140</a></li> +<li>Pleaskin Head, <a href="#Page_134">134</a></li> +<li>Poisoned Glen, <a href="#Page_141">141</a></li> +<li>Portsalon, <a href="#Page_137">137</a></li> +<li>Powerscourt, <a href="#Page_175">175</a></li> +<li>Prisons of Lugnaquilia, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> +<li>Purple Mountain, <a href="#Page_189">189</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a id="IX_R" name="IX_R"></a>Rhayader, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li> +<li>Rhinog Fawr, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li> +<li>Rosapenna, <a href="#Page_138">138</a></li> +<li>Rostrevor, <a href="#Page_169">169</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a id="IX_S" name="IX_S"></a>St. Kevin's Bed, <a href="#Page_177">177</a></li> +<li>Slanting Gully, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li> +<li>Slieve Donard, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> +<li>Slieve Glas, <a href="#Page_182">182</a></li> +<li>Slieve League, <a href="#Page_145">145</a></li> +<li>Smith (Death of), <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li> +<li>Snowdon, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> +<li>Snowdon Ranger, <a href="#Page_13">13</a></li> +<li>Southey benighted, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> +<li>Spellick, <a href="#Page_171">171</a></li> +<li>Stacks, <a href="#Page_15">15</a></li> +<li>Starr (Rev. H. W.), <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li> +<li>Stilloge Lakes, <a href="#Page_193">193</a></li> +<li>Sturrell, <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a id="IX_T" name="IX_T"></a>Tanybwlch, <a href="#Page_14">14</a></li> +<li>Tonelagee, <a href="#Page_176">176</a></li> +<li>Tormore, <a href="#Page_139">139</a>, <a href="#Page_144">144</a></li> +<li>Tory Island, <a href="#Page_139">139</a></li> +<li>Trigfylchau, <a href="#Page_36">36</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> +<li>Tryfaen, <a href="#Page_44">44</a></li> +<li>Twelve Bens or Pins, <a href="#Page_166">166</a></li> +<li>Twll Du, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a id="IX_W" name="IX_W"></a>Waterford Co., <a href="#Page_192">192</a></li> +<li>Wicklow Co., <a href="#Page_175">175</a></li> +<li>Williams (W.), <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li> +<li>Wills (Mr.), <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li> +<li>Wilton (Mr. F. R.), <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="IX"> +<li><a id="IX_Y" name="IX_Y"></a>Y Garn, <a href="#Page_28">28</a></li> +<li>Y Wyddfa, <a href="#Page_54">54</a></li> +<li>Yr Elen, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li> +</ul> + + +<p class="center">PRINTED BY +SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE +LONDON</p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span>FOOTNOTES:</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label"> [1] </span></a> <i>Boy's Own Paper</i>, May 5, 1894.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label"> [2] </span></a> The <i>Times</i>, April 16, 1873, p. 6.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label"> [3] </span></a> The <i>Times</i>, September 9, 1876, p. 8.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label"> [4] </span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> April 7, 1885, p. 7.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label"> [5] </span></a> <i>Ibid.</i> August 3, 1885, p. 10.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label"> [6] </span></a> The <i>Times</i>, August 25, 1885, p. 6, and August 27, p. 8. See also +the <i>Times</i>, October 2, 1837, p. 3.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label"> [7] </span></a> Tremadoc, 1875.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label"> [8] </span></a> <i>Alpine Journal</i>, vol. ix. p. 384.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label"> [9] </span></a> Mackintosh, p. 809.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label"> [10] </span></a> See the <i>Journal of the Royal Meteorological Society</i> for April +1893, xix. No. 86, for a summary of the temperatures thus recorded.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label"> [11] </span></a> Vol. vi. p. 195.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label"> [12] </span></a> See the <i>Doncaster Chronicle</i>.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label"> [13] </span></a> The <i>Times</i>, July 2, 6, 8, and 15, 1875.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label"> [14] </span></a> See the <i>Times</i>, June 25, 1861.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label"> [15] </span></a> The <i>Times</i>, January 29 and February 7, 1879; <i>Chambers's +Journal</i>, May 7, 1887.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label"> [16] </span></a> Vol. xi. p. 239.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label"> [17] </span></a> The <i>Times</i>, 1846, October 14, October 24, October 30, November +3, and 1847, June 5; the <i>Globe</i>, October 1846; <i>Chambers's Journal</i>, +May 1887.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label"> [18] </span></a> See the <i>Philosophical Transactions</i>, p. 294, of that year.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a title="Return to text." href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label"> [19] </span></a> <i>Gentleman's Magazine</i>, 1768.</p></div> + +<p class="transnote">Transcriber's note:<br /> +The alternate spellings Carnarvonshire and Caernarvonshire both appear +in the original. I have left them as written (both are accepted +spellings).<br /> +Inconsistent hyphenation and dashes (e.g. number-ft vs. number ft) are left as written.</p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Climbing in The British Isles, Vol. II, by +W. P. Haskett Smith and H. C. 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