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diff --git a/37447.txt b/37447.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9441e1a --- /dev/null +++ b/37447.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1965 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Hand-Craft, by John D. Sutcliffe + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Hand-Craft + The Most Reliable Basis of Technical Education in Schools and Classes + +Author: John D. Sutcliffe + +Release Date: September 16, 2011 [EBook #37447] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HAND-CRAFT *** + + + + +Produced by Jonathan Ingram, Harry Lame and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + + + + + +--------------------------------------------------------------------+ + | TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES | + | | + | * Minor typographical errors have been corrected silently. | + | | + | * Inconsistencies in spelling (including hyphenation) and | + | formatting have not been corrected, except that sandpaper has | + | been changed to sand-paper. | + | | + | * Special characters and formatting: | + | * A V-shaped symbol is represented as [V]; | + | * Text printed in italics and bold face in the original work are | + | represented here as _text_ and =text=, respectively; | + | * Small capitals in the original work are represented by all- | + | capitals; | + | * Superscript characters in the original work are represented | + | here as regular characters. | + | * Asterisms are represented as [***]; | + | * In-line illustrations are represented as [Figure]; | + | * In the multi-page table the repeated headings and 'carry | + | forward' / 'carried forward' have been removed. | + +--------------------------------------------------------------------+ + + + + + HAND-CRAFT. + + + + + DRAWING BOOKS. + + Kindergarten Drawing Book. Part I. Compiled by T. G. Rooper. + + Two Hundred Blackboard Drawing Exercises for Infants' Classes. + Small quarto, cloth, price 1s. 6d. + + Kindergarten Drawing Book. Part II. Compiled by T. G. Rooper. + (Curved lines.) Small quarto, cloth, price 1s. + + + INFANTS' DRAWING BOOKS. + + _A Varied Occupation._ + + Book I. Vertical and Horizontal Lines of varying lengths in + combination. + + Book II. Vertical and Horizontal Lines, with Oblique Lines drawn + at Angles of 45 Degrees. + + Book III. Vertical and Horizontal Lines, with Oblique Lines drawn + at various Angles. + + PRICE TWOPENCE EACH. + + _Recommended by the Science and Art Department for Beginning in + Elementary Day Schools._ + + + JUNIOR DRAWING BOOKS. + + =Three Books. PRICE TWOPENCE EACH.= + + + DRAWING BOOKS. + + _To meet the requirements of the New Class Subject--Drawing--and + forming a complete course of Instruction in Freehand and + Geometry, with full directions and space for working._ + + + FREEHAND. + + Book I. Lines, Angles, Parallels. Simple Right-lined Forms. + + Book II. Simple Right-lined Forms. + + Book III. Simple Combinations of Straight and Curved Lines, + forming familiar Symmetrical Figures. + + Book IV. More Advanced Combinations of Straight and Curved Lines, + forming Symmetrical Figures. + + Books V. & VI. Familiar Symmetrical Objects of the Home. + + Books VII. & VIII. Stage II. of the Science and Art Department. + + Books IX. & X. Common Objects in Light and Shade. + + _11 inches by 7-1/2 inches, paper covers, Twopence each._ + + _BOOKS I.-VIII. have SIXTEEN PAGES. BOOKS IX. and X. EIGHT + PAGES._ + + + GEOMETRY. + + Book I. Lines, Parallels, Angles and Triangles drawn with Rulers. + + Book II. Quadrilaterals and Simple Geometrical Figures drawn with + Rulers. + + Book III. Lines and Angles. + + Book IV. Drawing to Scale. + + Book V. Triangles, Quadrilaterals, Circles and Tangents. + + Book VI. Polygons, Ellipses, Inscribed and Described Figures. + + Book VII. Inscribed and Described Figures. + + Book VIII. Proportionals and Areas. + + Book IX. Simple Scales, Projection of Rectangular Solids, and + Plane Figures. + + Book X. Ditto (more advanced), and with Sections. + + Book XI. Projection of Circular Solids and Sections. + + _BOOKS I.-VIII., 11 inches by 7-1/4 inches, paper covers, + Twopence each._ + + _BOOKS IX.-XI., 14 inches by 10-3/4 inches, paper covers, + Threepence each._ + + [***] _A Book of Specimen Pages of this Series will be forwarded + free to Head-Teachers on application. Single Copies of any of the + Books are sent post-free on receipt of the published price._ + + + STUDIES IN MACHINE DESIGN. + + By C. F. ARCHER, Certificated Teacher, Subject II. + + + ELEMENTARY STAGE. + + 1. Hexagon and Square-headed Bolts and Nuts. + + 2. Flange Coupling of Shafts of different diameter. + + 3. Hydraulic Pipe Joint. + + 4. Steam Piston. + + 5. Cylinder Cover and Stuffing Box. + + 6. Full Way Stop Valve. + + _On Separate Sheets, 13-1/2 inches by 9-1/2 inches, the Six in a + Packet_, =Sixpence=. + + + ADVANCED STAGE. + + 1. Launch Engine. + + 2. Details of Crank Shaft and Columns. + + 3. Details of Slide Valve and Link Motion. + + 4. Details of Piston, Crosshead, and Connecting Rod. + + 5. Launch Engine Cylinder. + + 6. Details of Bed-plate. + + _On Separate Sheets, 13-1/2 inches by 9-1/2 inches, the Six in a + Packet_, =Sixpence=. + + + GRIFFITH, FARRAN, OKEDEN & WELSH, LONDON. + + + + + HAND-CRAFT: + + _THE MOST RELIABLE BASIS OF TECHNICAL EDUCATION + IN SCHOOLS AND CLASSES._ + + A TEXT BOOK + + EMBODYING A SYSTEM OF PURE MECHANICAL ART, WITHOUT THE AID OF + MACHINERY; BEING AN ENGLISH EXPOSITION OF + + SLOeJD + + AS CULTIVATED IN SWEDEN, AND GENERALLY ADOPTED BY ALL + SCANDINAVIAN PEOPLES, TO THEIR GREAT ADVANTAGE. + + _EXPLAINED AND ILLUSTRATED_ + + BY + JOHN D. SUTCLIFFE, + OF THE MANCHESTER RECREATIVE EVENING CLASSES. + + WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY + T. C. HORSFALL, J.P. + + NEW YORK + CHARLES E. MERRILL & CO. + 52 & 54 LAFAYETTE PLACE + 1890 + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +It is surprising that so few efforts have hitherto been made in this +country to introduce manual training into Elementary Schools. Adequate +reason for making such training part of the national system of education +exists in the fact, that a large proportion of the people have to earn +their livelihood by industries for the attainment of a high degree of +skill in which early training of hand and eye is as necessary as it is +for success in the use of musical instruments. There can be no doubt +that if, in 1870, a system, resembling that of Sloyd, had been generally +introduced into English Elementary Schools, the joiners, metal-workers, +and most other craftsmen of to-day, would possess more skill in their +own work, and more interest in all kinds of manual work, than they do +now possess, and that English workpeople, finding that their children +received at school kinds of training obviously well fitted to increase +wage-earning power, would less commonly than now be careless with regard +to their children's attendance at school. + +This reason for desiring the introduction of manual training into +Elementary Schools might have been expected to suggest itself to all +persons who are acquainted with the conditions under which the mass of +English people live; but experience gained in Sweden and other countries +where the Sloyd system has been largely used, proves that there are also +strong educational reasons for desiring that Sloyd shall be introduced +into all English Elementary Schools as soon as possible. It has been +found that this admirably graduated system of training not only fosters +deftness of hand and correctness of eye, as it might be expected to do, +but also has distinctly moral and intellectual effects, as it promotes +patient attention, steady application, and interest in work, to a very +high degree. + +Its effect on many of the large class of children who, though not +dullards, show lack of interest in, and deficiency in the power to +understand, the subjects comprised in the ordinary school-curriculum, +has been most beneficial. In their Sloyd-lessons many of these children +have found themselves the equals, some more than the equals, of +companions far their superiors at book-work, and have by this gained a +confidence in their own ability which has often reacted on their power +and their will to conquer their other lessons. Thus many children who, +when they first began Sloyd, were distinctly below the average in +intelligence, have become under its influence completely "normal." On +nearly all children the effect of this kind of training has been so +vivifying that, at least, as much progress has been made with other +subjects, when several hours weekly have been given to Sloyd, as had +been made previously when all the school-time was given to them. The +general educational value of Sloyd has, indeed, been found to be so +great, that in some schools in Swedish towns as many as eight hours are +given to it each week. + +All persons who know how badly prepared are the majority of the children +who now leave our Elementary Schools for gaining rapidly skill in the +work by which they have to live, or for taking an intelligent interest +in their own work or in the best handiwork of others, most strongly +desire that the educational authorities in this country will no longer +delay the introduction of a system, the great usefulness of which has +been so fully ascertained in other lands, and for which many +well-trained English teachers can now be obtained. Mr Sutcliffe brought +to the careful study of Sloyd, knowledge of the methods of wood-carving; +and his treatise will doubtless be found to be helpful to all teachers +of the new system. + + T. C. HORSFALL, J.P. + + SWANSCOE PARK, + + near MACCLESFIELD. + + * * * * * + + +NOTE BY THE AUTHOR. + +Some friends have advised that elementary suggestions should have been +given as guidance for the use of the tools. Everything of the kind has +been omitted, because it is vain to rely upon book knowledge in such +matters. How to handle and use the tools can only be well imparted by a +competent teacher in practice. The author avails himself of two more +lines, wherein to acknowledge the valuable literary assistance he has +received from his friend, Mr Richard Russell, of Ashbourne House, Herne +Hill, London. + + J. D. S. + + PENDLETON, MANCHESTER, + + _March 1890._ + + + + +HAND-CRAFT. + + +For some generations there has been cultivated in Sweden, and amongst +Scandinavian and kindred peoples, a course of training in personal +ingenuity, unknown in most other countries. It does not seem to have +ever been persevered in after the manner of trading industry, but as a +means of promoting throughout the community a taste and skill for the +performance of highly-finished productions in mechanical art, proceeding +from the simple to the complex, and resulting in a widely-diffused +facility for all kinds of constructive occupations. + +Such course or system of training is called Sloyd, and written Sloejd. +For the majority of English people such a word cannot have a meaning, +and cannot appeal with adequate force to popular appreciation. The +nearest equivalent in English to the Swedish word Sloejd would seem to be +Hand-Craft, or mechanical training for the hand, undertaken voluntarily +for the satisfaction of acquiring manual skill in general, as +distinguished from a handicraft of limited application, pursued of +necessity from day to day, rather by routine than by skill. + +Hand-Craft is therefore adopted as synonymous in England with the word +Sloejd in Sweden. + +As cultivated in Sweden, it involves all kinds of manual training, and +is applicable to highly finished productions in leather, metal, and +various other substances, but it suffices, for educational purposes, to +limit teaching and exercise to objects made of wood. + +It must always be borne in mind that Hand-Craft is mainly educational, +and is valuable, not for what it produces, but for the training which +the production involves; just as the letters of the alphabet, and their +accurate use, are the essential preliminaries to literary attainments. +It imparts and cultivates mechanical dexterity, just as learning to read +and write spontaneously developes mental capacity. Therefore, whoever +masters a course of Hand-Craft acquires an aptitude for all kinds of +material processes. Such an aptitude, while useful and gratifying to the +individual, is of the greatest consequence amongst people so deeply +interested as the English are in manufacturing pursuits. + +Hand-Craft also has strong claims to be cultivated as a recreation, and +experience proves that it may be so regarded, with every prospect of +becoming popular as such. + +Touching this matter of recreation, and those who have not the faculty +for viewing the subject in that light, reference may be made to familiar +facts with reference to chess. Perhaps there is nothing that, to the +uninitiated, appears more stupid, insipid, and purposeless than the +progress of that game. Yet there are thousands, who have so regarded it, +who, after being well initiated, have become interested and absorbed by +it, to an extent exceeding the possibilities of their original belief. + +So it is with Hand-Craft, with this difference, that Hand-Craft, while +supplying an incentive to wholesome perseverance, developing into a +fascinating recreation, is suggestive at every turn of life-long +utility, with reference to an infinite variety of probable subsequent +experience. It promotes a delightful consciousness of the merits of +neat, natty tastefulness and judgment with reference to every material +thing, and trains the mind and the eye, as well as the hand, to perceive +and appreciate excellence of design and finish, proportion, beauty, and +adaptability of the most familiar appliances. + +Training of this kind has, in recent years, been much stimulated by the +establishment of an Institute or Seminary for its teaching and +cultivation at Naeaes in Sweden, where very generous accommodation and +facilities are provided for the instruction of teachers from all parts +of Sweden and the rest of the world. The subsequent mission of each of +those teachers is to diffuse the taste and knowledge he has thus +acquired amongst his own people on his return to them, or amongst other +people where he may find encouragement to settle for that purpose. + +Thus have the foundations been laid for this genial drawing out and +exercise of latent mechanical genius amongst the people of England. With +the object of widening those foundations, these pages have been +prepared; primarily as forming a Text Book for Teachers, but also as an +incentive to parents, educationists, and statesmen to fortify the rising +generation of England against the opprobrium so justly alleged against +the English of the present day, that they are behind the rest of the +industrial world in those elements of mechanical taste and skill, which +are becoming more and more essential to the maintenance of manufacturing +and commercial prosperity. + +An earnest determination to promote amendment in these respects cannot +be better carried into effect than by insisting that Hand-Craft shall be +regarded as an essential branch of the Technical Education that is now +struggling to assert itself usefully. If such a branch be left out, the +mere teaching of routine trade processes will inevitably fail. Such +routine processes are many of them in heavy-handed, rough disregard of +the nicety, accuracy, finish, and judgment which intelligent exercise in +Hand-Craft can alone impart; which is the only reliable basis for the +superior mechanical results so much needed. + +Hand-Craft in wood is distinguished from carpentry or joinery in many +important respects. + +There is no division of labour. + +Everything produced is the entire work of one operator, for the defects +of which he is solely responsible. + +This directness of responsibility is one of the great merits of +Hand-Craft, being calculated to promote wholesome pride in the +excellence of complete work; a sentiment that is apt to be very weak, or +totally wanting, where division of labour is much relied upon. + +The intellectual faculties are brought into unison with the hand, by +knowledge and experience developing together with increasing dexterity. + +Genuine respect and sympathy are developed for manual toil by +familiarity with its application. + +Love of work in general is developed, and a taste for it instilled by +practical experience of its utility. + +Habits of attention, perseverance, industry, and discipline are formed, +cultivated, and unconsciously grafted upon the pupil, by the application +necessary to excel. + +Independence, order, and cleanliness spontaneously grow and become part +of the nature of the operator. + +Manual dexterity being thoroughly established, the operator is endowed +with the consequent acquired ability for dealing with the practical +business of life. + +Education being the object that should be constantly kept in view, in +the teaching and practice of Hand-Craft, it should be thoroughly +appreciated that it is adapted for forming and shaping the entire bent +of all the faculties. + +The objects recommended to work upon are all small, and are therefore +within the capacity of the very young, and of both sexes. + +For the same reason, the eye, the hand, and the judgment are trained to +precise form and finish in the minutest details. This is important, for, +though it is generally easier to make something large and rough than +small and smooth, no one who is incapable of making a small model well +can make a large one any better. Small objects are invariably the best +training to work upon, as being certain to inspire appreciation for +neatness, exactness, and accuracy. + + +BASIS OF TEACHING. + +Practical teaching of Hand-Craft is based upon models for imitation. + + +These models, distinguished by numbering from 1A and 1B to 25, are +represented by the drawings accompanying these pages, and the +instructions hereafter subjoined are explained by reference to the +drawings. + +The following is a + + +LIST OF THE MODELS. + +[***] The second column indicates the kind of wood required--B. +signifying Beech or Birch, and F. signifying Fir, commonly called Deal +or Pine; the class of wood usually distinguished as Pine being +preferable to the rougher-grained wood generally classed as Deal. + + No. Wood. Names of Models. + + 1A. B. Kindergarten Pointer. + 1B. B. Another variety of the same. + 2. B. Parcel-Pin or Carrier. + 3. F. Flower-Stick. + 4. B. Envelope Opener. + 5. F. Rectangular Flower-Stick. + 6. F. Pencil Holder. + 7. F. Key Label. + 8. B. Thread-Winder. + 9. F. Dibble for the Garden. + 10. B. Pen-Rest. + 11. F. Flower-pot Stand. + 12. B. Paper-Knife. + 13. B. Knife-Rest. + 14. B. Bowl, for Toilette, &c. + 15. B. Hammer Handle. + 16. B. Handle for Chisel or File. + 17. B. Spoon. + 18. F. Chopping-Board. + 19. B. Measure (Half-yard). + 20. B. Scoop for Flour, Sugar, &c. + 21. F. Hanging-Pegs. + 22. F. Stand for Flower-Pot, &c. + 23. F. Footstool. + 24. F. & B. Book Carrier. + 25. B. Ladle. + + +TOOLS AND APPLIANCES. + +The following is a List of Tools and Appliances necessary for producing +the models before enumerated, with the cost of each, both Swedish and +English. + + Descriptions of Articles. Best Swedish. Best English. + _s._ _d._ _s._ _d._ + + Carpenter's Bench in Pine, 6 ft. long 11 3 13 0 + Knife (resembling a Shoemaker's) 0 4 0 8 + Two Frame Saws, blades 3/8 and 1-1/4 wide 2 7[1] 10 6 + Tenon or Dovetail Saw (small) 2 0 3 0 + Jack Plane 1 8 4 9 + Smooth Plane 1 1 3 9 + Three Furmer Chisels, 3/8, 3/4, and 1-1/4 + wide 1 2 2 4 + Three Outside Gouges, 1/2, 7/8, and 1-1/8 + wide 1 4 2 8 + Two-foot Rule 0 6 0 6 + Square (6 in.) 1 6 1 10 + Bevel (6 in.) 0 8 2 3 + Marking Gauge 0 6 0 6 + Compasses 1 0 1 8 + Hammer (small) 0 8 0 8 + Mallet 0 6 1 0 + Oilstone 0 7 1 0 + Scraper, with round end 0 2 0 5 + Two Files (half round), one rough, the other + smooth 1 0 3 0 + Chopper or Axe 1 10 1 6 + Spokeshave (iron) 0 5 1 0 + Screw-driver 0 3 0 7 + Glue-Pot and Brush 1 6 0 10 + Pincers 0 7 0 9 + Two Brad-Awls 0 2 0 4 + Brace and twenty-four Bits 4 0 6 9 + Sand-paper No. 1A + Pencil + --------------------------- + [2]37 3 65 3 + =========================== + + [1] Nothing exactly like this Swedish Saw is made in England. + + [2] Exclusive of carriage from Gothenburg. + +Although the prices of the English tools are so much higher than the +Swedish (with few exceptions), they are cheaper in the end. They are +more carefully made; the wood is drier and better selected; and Swedish +steel is not to be compared with English. At the same time, the Swedish +tools are good enough to put into the hands of school boys and girls, +and they have also the advantage of being considerably lighter in +weight. + + +THE BENCH. + +A drawing of the Bench is annexed, to show the difference between one +adapted for Sloyd or Hand-Craft and the kind in common use by +carpenters. The Sloyd Bench is usually about 7 ft. long, 2 ft. wide, and +3 ft. 3 in. high. As shown in the drawing, it has an extra Bench Screw +at the end, which enables the student to fix a piece of level wood +rigidly on the top of the Bench, by placing the end against a Stop, as +shown in the drawing, and bringing the pressure of the End Screw to bear +on the other end. The numerous holes (shown in the drawing) on the Bench +Top, are so arranged that the Stop can be fixed in any of them. For +school work the Benches are often made double--that is, with a Screw on +each side and on each end of the Bench. This arrangement economises +space, and answers all practical purposes; enabling two students to work +at one bench. The Sloyder will find it an advantage to fix a small +drawer under the bench top. In this he should keep his sand-paper and +files, as nothing is so detrimental to the edges of the sharp tools as +these two articles. + +[Illustration] + + +TOOL EXERCISES. + +The making of the models involves training in the exercises enumerated +in the following list, the numbering being for subsequent reference. + + 1. Long Cut (with grain). + 2. End Cut (across grain). + 3. Oblique Cut. + 4. Bevel Cut. + 5. Sawing off. + 6. Convex Cut. + 7. Long Sawing. + 8. Edge Planing. + 9. Squaring with Set Square. + 10. Gauging. + 11. Drilling with Brace and Shell-Bit. + 12. Flat Planing. + 13. Filing. + 14. Drilling with Brace and Centre-Bit. + 15. Curved Sawing. + 16. Concave Cut. + 17. Bevelled Planing. + 18. Shaping with Plane. + 19. Chopping. + 20. Cross-Sawing. + 21. Mortising with Knife. + 22. Wave-Sawing. + 23. Plane Surface-Cut with Knife. + 24. Scraping. + 25. Obstacle-Planing. + 26. Perpendicular Chiselling. + 27. Concave Chiselling or Gouging. + 28. Gouging with Spoon-Iron. + 29. Oblique Chiselling. + 30. Smoothing with Spokeshave. + 31. Shaping with Spokeshave. + 32. Oblique Sawing. + 33. Oblique Planing. + 34. End Planing. + 35. Exercises with Smoothing Plane. + 36. Work in Hard Wood. + 37. Dowelling or Round Mortising. + 38. Bevelling Edge with Plane Oblique. + 39. Gluing. + 40. Sinking in of Iron Plates. + 41. Nailing. + 42. Sinking of Nails. + 43. Bevelling with Shaping Knife. + 44. Perpendicular Gouging. + 45. Point Planing. + 46. Oblique Grooving. + 47. Circular Sawing. + 48. Fixing with Screws. + 49. Modelling with Knife. + + + + +MAKING OF THE MODELS. + + +The following are the descriptions of how to apply the Exercises to the +making of the Models. + + +NO. 1A. KINDERGARTEN POINTER. + +(Requiring Exercises 1 and 2.) + +Commence with a piece of Beech, rather more than 5 in. long, and not +less than 3/4 in. thick. It is all the better, for this and other +exercises, if it is split from a larger piece, and has no side either +square or straight. With the knife, make one side level and smooth, to a +width rather exceeding 3/8 in. When that is done perfectly, make another +straight side at right angles to the first. Trim the ends; then mark +with the pencil at each end a 3/8-in. square, with the two straight +sides as bases. Then cut two additional straight sides in unison with +those squares. This will produce a stem a shade more than 5 in. long and +3/8 in. square. Mark each end with a diagram thus [Figure]; then draw +corresponding lines along each side. Then, letting one end remain the +same size; reduce the other end to 1/8 in. square (as shown in centre of +diagram) by tapering each side symmetrically throughout. This will +result in the stem being 3/8 in. square at one end and 1/8 in. square at +the other end. Then, guided by the diagram at the thicker end, take off +the four corners symmetrically throughout, thus producing a tapered +octagonal stem. Then, in like manner, take off the eight corners with +great precision, so as to maintain uniform symmetry, and the result will +be a tapered stem, approximately round throughout and pointed at one +end. + +The Long Cut having, thus far, been solely resorted to, measure from the +point, and make a mark at 4 in.; then cut off at the mark, thus +exercising the Cross Cut. Then, by judiciously applying sand-paper, the +pointer may be made perfectly smooth and almost perfectly round, as it +should be throughout. + + +NO. 1B. KINDERGARTEN POINTER. + +(Requiring Exercises 1, 2, and 3.) + +Proceed as for the previous model until the round pointer is produced. +Then apply Exercise 3 to the two Oblique Cuts shown from _A_ to _a_ in +the figures 1, 2, and 3, of drawings No. 1B. These Oblique Cuts demand +great care and precision, as the Cuts should be precisely opposite each +other, perfectly level and symmetrical. + + +NO. 2. PARCEL-PIN OR CARRIER. + +(Requiring Exercises 1, 2, and 4.) + +Commence with a piece of Beech rather more than 3 in. long and 5/8 in. +thick. Reduce it in like manner as previously described to a stem 3 in. +long and 3/8 in. square throughout. Then apply Exercise 4, and so bevel +the sides and ends as to make chamfers, as shown in Figs. 1, 2, and 3 of +drawings No. 2. Then draw a line across the centre of one side, and +there cut a [V]-shaped notch as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, so as to provide +for a string. Then finish with a piece of sand-paper laid upon a flat +surface, upon which first rub the sides, then the chamfers, and lastly +the ends. + + +NO. 3. FLOWER-STICK. + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 1, 2, and 6.) + +This is the first model made in soft wood, and introduces Exercise 5, +Sawing Off. From the edge of a 3/4-in. board saw off a piece the same +width as the thickness, and about 14 in. long. Proceed as for No. 1A +until a rod is produced 1/2 in. square throughout. Then, by a cross made +from corner to corner [Figure] find the centre of one end. Then take off +the corners throughout until an octagonal rod is produced; then take off +the eight corners so as to make the rod round and the same thickness +throughout. Then apply Exercise 6, the Convex Cut, and point the end +where the centre is marked. Then measure from the point and mark at 12 +in., and there cut off at right angles. Then apply sand-paper, and the +result will be a tapered symmetrical round rod, pointed at one end, as +shown in drawings No. 3. + +[Illustration: _No. 1A._ + +_Kindergarten Pointer_] + +[Illustration: _No. 1B._ + +_Kindergarten Pointer_] + +[Illustration: _No. 2._ + +_Parcel Carrier_] + +[Illustration: _No. 3._ + +_Round Plant Stick_] + + + +NO. 4. ENVELOPE OPENER. + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 1, 2, and 6.) + +Saw from Beech, a piece about 8 in. long, 3/4 in. wide and 1/2 in. +thick. With the knife, make one of the flat sides perfectly level and +smooth throughout, and cut one end across at right angles. With a fine +pencil, draw on the level side the outline of Fig 1 of drawings No. 4, +and also, with compasses, describe on the end the semicircle shown by +Fig 3 of drawings No. 4, with the flat edge for the base. Apply the long +cut to the edges at right angles to the flat side. Then, on each of the +edges thus flattened, draw a line showing the course of the tapering +illustration on the first side of Fig. 2 of drawings No. 4. Apply the +long cut to each of those lines, at right angles to the edges. This will +produce a rod, flat on one side, and presenting a tapered half square on +the other. Then shave off the corners of that square, so as to produce +half a tapered octagon; then shave off the corners of that octagon, +being careful that the work is in unison with the semicircle previously +described on the thick end. When so far done to satisfaction, round both +ends symmetrically, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2 of drawings No. 4, and +finish with sand-paper. + + +NO. 5. RECTANGULAR FLOWER-STICK, WITH CHAMFERED OR BEVELLED CORNERS. + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 7, 8, 9, 6, and 3.) + +In this model the Jack Plane and the Try Square are used for the first +time. Saw off from Pine a piece about 16 in. long and 3/4 in. square. +Plane one side straight and true, and one of the other sides at right +angles. Cut each end across at right angles, and on each end, using the +planed edges as basis, mark Fig. 2 of drawings No. 5. Then plane the +other two sides at right angles, so as to produce a square rod, which, +at every part throughout its length, should fit the try square. Then, +with the plane, take about two shavings off each corner, in unison with +the figures at the ends. Then, with the knife, cut the point from _a_ to +_a_ as shown in Fig. 1 of drawings No. 5. Then measure from the +long-pointed end, mark the exact length, cut across at the mark, and cut +the other end to a point with eight sides as shown in Figs. 1 and 2. +Finish with sand-paper at the long-pointed end only. + +[Illustration: _No. 4._ + +_Envelope Opener_] + +[Illustration: _No. 5._ + +_Plant Stick_] + +[Illustration: _No. 6._ + +_Pencil Holder_] + + +NO. 6. PENCIL HOLDER. + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 1, 11, 6, and 2.) + +This model for the first time introduces the Brace and Bit. Saw off from +Pine a piece 10 in. long, and 3/4 in. square. With the knife, cut one +end across at right angles, and make it smooth. Find the centre of the +end as for model No. 1. Fix the stem vertically in the Bench Screw, with +the smooth end upwards. Fit a 3/16-Shell-Bit into the Brace, and bore a +centre hole in the end of the stem as shown in Fig. 2 of drawings No. 6, +and to the depth dotted in Fig. 1. Great care must be taken in drilling, +so that the hole may be clean and perpendicular. With the knife, pare +down each side so as to leave a 1/2-in. square, with the drilled hole in +the centre. Find the centre in the opposite end. Mark a line about 2-1/4 +in. from the drilled end, as shown in Fig. 1. From that line, shave each +side down to the centre last found. Then take off the corners so as to +make a tapered octagon. Then take off the corners of the octagon, so as +to produce a round tapered rod. Measure from the thick end and mark the +exact length, and, at the mark, cut across. Then round the end as shown +in Fig. 1, and finish with sand-paper. + +NOTE.--This is a repetition to a considerable extent of Model 1 on a +larger scale. The student may be tempted to proceed without going +through the processes described, but the temptation should be +rigorously resisted, as a satisfactory result cannot be obtained except +by adhering to all the details prescribed. + + +NO. 7. KEY LABEL. + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 12, 8, 9, 10, 11, 6, 2, and 13.) + +This is mainly intended for an exercise in planing, and it is better to +get out a piece of Pine sufficient for two models--that is, about 9 in. +long, 1-3/4 in. wide, and 1 in. thick. + +Plane one side, and then one edge, perfectly straight and square to each +other. Then set the gauge to 1-1/2 in. to fit Fig. 1 of drawings No. 7. +Apply the gauge to the straightened edge and mark off the width along +the smooth side. Then plane that edge down to the line so made, using +the try-square to keep the edge at right angles with the straightened +side. Next find the centre 3/4 in. from the top end, as shown in Fig. 1. +From that centre describe with the compasses a semicircle. Then fit a +3/16-Shell-bit into the Brace, and bore a hole, at the centre of the +semicircle, right through. Then set the gauge to 5/16 in. for the +thickness, as shown by Fig. 2. Apply the gauge to the straightened side, +and mark the line for thickness along each edge. Then plane the rough +side down to those lines. Then, with the knife, cut round precisely to +the semicircle, using the try-square frequently. + +[If a double length is commenced with, as before recommended, the +centering, marking, drilling, and rounding must be done at both ends.] + +Measure from the rounded end, and rule with the square, the length of +4-1/4 in. Then, with Tenon or Dovetail Saw, cut off just outside the +line. Then, with the knife, pare down to the line, and with a file, +smooth that end as well as the rounded end, finishing throughout with +sand-paper. + + +NO. 8. THREAD-WINDER. + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 7, 12, 8, 9, 10, 14, 15, 1, 6, 16, and 13.) + +Beech is required, about 7 in. long, 3 in. wide, and 1/2 in. thick. +Plane one side and one edge. Draw the centre line _A_ to _B_ in Fig. 1 +of drawings No. 8. With square and compasses draw all the other lines +shown in the same Fig. Then fit a 3/4 in. Centre-bit to the Brace, and +bore two holes, one at _A_ and the other at _B_. Then, with the smaller +turning saw, cut the two outside curved edges as shown in Fig. 1. With +the knife, trim to the lines, making the edges square, as shown in Fig. +3. Then shave and slightly round each semicircle, as shown in Figs. 1 +and 2, smoothing the edges with the file. Then set the Marking Gauge to +1/4 in., and, with the smooth side for a base, mark gauge lines on each +edge for thickness, and plane the rough side down to those lines. Then +set the plane very fine and take a shaving off the face side so as to +remove the pencil and compass marks. Then finish with sand-paper. + + +NO. 9. DIBBLE FOR GARDEN. + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 17, 18, 6, 2, and 13.) + +Saw out from Fir a piece 14 in. long and 1-1/4 in. square. Plane one +side straight and another side at right angles. Set the Marking Gauge to +1 in., and with the planed side as base, mark lines for thickness along +each planed side. Then plane the rough sides down to those lines, using +the Try Square frequently. Then, at each end find the centre thus +[Figure] with additional lines showing octagons thus [Figure]. With the +Marking Gauge draw lines from end to end of each side corresponding with +the corners of each octagon. Plane the corners of the square down to +those octagon lines, thus producing an octagonal rod, and completing the +first exercise in bevel planing. Plane off the corners of the octagon +throughout, thus producing a rod approximately round, shown in Fig. 2 of +drawings No. 9, and so completing the first exercise in shaping with +plane. Measure from one end for the point as shown in Fig. 1, and, with +the knife, cut the point as roundly and symmetrically as possible, +referring to the centre marked at the end as a guide for the precise +place of the point. Then measure from the point and mark at 12 in. Cut +across at that mark, and round the blunt end thus made, as shown at top +of Fig. 1. With the file, dress the end and stray angles throughout, and +finish with sand-paper. + +[Illustration: _No. 7._ + +_Key Label_] + +[Illustration: _No. 8._ + +_Pack Thread Winder_] + +[Illustration: _No. 9._ + +_Garden Dibble_] + + +NO. 10. PEN REST. + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 8, 9, 10, 20, 1, 2, 18, and 13.) + +Cut from Beech a piece 5 in. long, 1 in. wide, and 3/4 in. thick. Plane +one side and one edge at right angles, then gauge and plane to thickness +and height, as shown in Fig. 2 of drawings No. 10, but flat on all +sides. Saw across both ends at right angles, so as to reduce the length +to 3-1/2 in. Select one edge as the top, and, with the square, rule a +central line from _e_ to _e_, and a line across at each of the places +marked _a_, _b_, _c_, and _d_ in Fig. 1, continuing each line down both +sides. Then, at each end, mark the central place represented by the dot +in Fig. 2. From each of those central places describe the semicircle +shown at top of Fig. 2. Then mark a line from end to end on each side +half way between the top and the bottom. + +Then, with the knife, and working to the semicircle at each end, take +off the corners of the top, so making half an octagon, and, by taking +off the corners of the half octagon, produce a top corresponding to the +semicircle at each end, as shown in Fig. 2, taking care that the top of +the semicircle throughout centres to the line previously drawn from _e_ +to _e_. Then, with the tenon saw, at each of the places marked _a_, _b_, +_c_, and _d_, saw across a right angle slit 3/16 in. deep. Then, with +the knife or a chisel, cut out the space shown in Fig. 1 from _a_ to _b_ +and from _c_ to _d_, taking care that the side of each space is true +and square. Then, with the file, round each base as shown at the top of +the shaded section in Fig. 2. Then smooth with the file where required, +and finish with sand-paper. + + +NO. 11. FLOWER-POT STAND. + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 2, 1, 6, 13, and 21.) + +This consists of two pieces, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2 of drawings No. +11, each piece so made as to cross and fit the other at the centre, +hence called a Flower-Pot Cross, the whole being a test of exactness and +good work, surpassing any preceding model. + +Cut from Pine a piece 12 in. long, 1-1/4 in. wide, and 1/2 in. thick. +Plane one side and one edge at right angles; then gauge for height and +thickness, and plane the other side and edge as shown by the section +represented in Fig. 3. Saw across the middle so as to make two pieces, +and, from the end of each so cut, measure off and saw both to the equal +length of 5-1/4 in. each, taking care that both ends of each are +accurate right angles. Then place them on their sides and draw the +centre line indicated by _A B_, continuing the line all round each +piece. From the centre, mark off the places indicated by _e f_ and _g +h_. At _c_ and _d_ of each, with the compasses, describe the quarter +circle shown at each top corner of the figures, striking the segments +from the respective dots shown for the purpose near each top corner. +Then, with the bottom edge for a base, draw a gauge line on each side +of both pieces to the depth represented by _i j_, and with the tenon +saw, make a slit at _e_ and _f_ to the depth of such gauge line. Then, +with the knife or chisel, cut out the openings between _e_ and _f_ to +the depth of the gauge line, taking care to finish the opening perfectly +level and true. Then, at the bottom of one piece and the top of the +other, as shown in Figs. 1 and 2, gauge, saw, and cut out the spaces +from _g_ to _h_ in the same manner as for the spaces before mentioned. +The openings from _g_ to _h_, if well done, will fit accurately in all +directions, and, when put together, will form a firm cross. Then, with +the knife, round the corners of each piece, at _c_ and _d_. Then smooth +with file where required, and finish with sand-paper. + + +NO. 13. KNIFE REST.[3] + + [3] No. 12 (Paper Knife) appears, for convenience of illustration, on + page 41, but it should be proceeded with before No. 13. + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 20, 18, 26, 1, 2, 27, 13, and 24.) + +Cut from Beech a piece about 5 in. long, 1 in. wide, and 7/8 in. thick. +Plane one side and one edge at right angles. Then saw across one end at +right angles, and, measuring from that end, mark off the length at 4-1/4 +in., and saw off that end at the mark, taking care to maintain right +angles. Then gauge and plane the rough side and rough edge to a width of +7/8 in. and a thickness of 5/8 in. Then choose one edge for the top, +and, along the centre of that edge, draw a line from _c_ to _c_, as +shown in Fig. 1 of drawings No. 13, and continue the line to the +extremities of both ends. Then, in manner described for No. 10, gauge, +slit, and cut out with chisel the spaces shown in the same Fig. 1 of +drawings No. 13, from _a_ to _a_ and _b_ to _b_. Then, with compasses, +as indicated in the same Fig., describe on both sides of each top +corner, the segment of a circle represented in each case from _c_ to +_d_. Then, for the first time, resort to Concave Chiselling, and with a +broad chisel cut away the corners down to the segments previously +described. This process requires great care and judgment. Fix one end of +the work upwards in the bench screw, with the top side nearest to the +operator, and, after taking off the corner to a considerable extent, +with the bevelled side of the chisel towards the wood, shave small +pieces away until the segment marks are reached, taking care to keep the +whole curve at right angles to the sides throughout. Then, turn the +work, and dress the corner at the other end in like manner. Then file +judiciously where required, and finish with sand-paper. + +[Illustration: _No. 10._ + +_Pen Rest._] + +[Illustration: _No. 11._ + +_Flower Pot Cross._] + +[Illustration: _No. 13._ + +_Knife Rest._] + + +NO. 12. PAPER-KNIFE. + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 7, 12, 8, 9, 10, 22, 16, 6, 23, 13, and 24.) + +Cut from Beech a very straight-grained piece, 14 in. long, 2 in. wide, +and 3/8 in. thick. Plane one side and one edge at right angles. Then, on +the planed side, to the size and shape indicated, draw the whole of Fig. +1 of drawings No. 12, letting the straight edge serve as the line from +_A_ to _B_. With the smaller turning saw cut round all the curved parts, +carefully adhering to the drawn figure. Then gauge all round for +thickness, as shown in Fig. 2, plane the rough side down to the gauge +lines, and with the knife trim the curved edges where required. With the +set gauge, mark the centre of the straight edge from _A_ to _B_, and +guided by that centre, pare down each corner of the straight edge, so as +to make a straight chamfer on each side about 1/8 in. wide, terminating +with a sharp edge at the place where the gauge line was drawn, as shown +in Fig. 2. Pare down the corners of both chamfers, and pare each side +symmetrically, so as to produce a blade gradually diminishing throughout +from a back 3/16 in. thick to a sharp edge. Then pare down the end of +the back to a lancet-shaped point, as shown in Fig. 2. Round the corners +of both edges of the handle, so as to make them symmetrical throughout, +and also pare the corners of the back of the blade so as to round it on +both sides very slightly. File judiciously with a light hand where +required, and then, for the first time using the scraper, complete the +blade with great care by scraping, finishing as usual with sand-paper. + + +NO. 14. BOWL FOR TOILETTE, &C. + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 7, 12, 8, 9, 10, 15, 26, 13, 28, 29, 6, and 24.) + +This model is shown in the perspective Fig. 1 of drawings No. 14. +Commence for it by cutting from Beech a piece about 5 in. long, 3 in. +wide, and 1-1/4 in. thick. Plane one side and one edge at right angles. +Then gauge for a thickness of 1 in. and plane the rough side to the +gauge lines. Determine by choice which side shall be the bottom of the +bowl and which the top. Find the centre of the bottom side by drawing +the lines from _A_ to _B_ and from _C_ to _D_ as shown in Fig. 2. Repeat +these lines on the edges and top side, using the try square. Then, on +the bottom side, with compasses and square, draw the whole of the +figures constituting the entire diagram shown by Fig. 2, and on the top +side draw freehand the larger oval or ellipse diagram shown by Fig. 3, +being guided by the points of the guide-lines first drawn for the +purpose. + +Then, with the turning saw, cut round by the line of the ellipse on the +top side, and finish the edge square with chisel and file. Then, with +finger and pencil, mark a line about 1/8 in. inside the outer edge all +round the larger ellipse. With a 7/8-in. gouge cut out the centre so as +to form the inside of the bowl, the depth and shape being shown by the +dotted lines of Fig 4. Having so symmetrically shaped the inside and +made it as smooth as the gouge is capable of, with the round end of the +scraper dress as smoothly as possible, and finish with sand-paper, +before proceeding with the bottom side. + +[Illustration: _No. 12._ + +_Paper Knife_] + +[Illustration: _No. 14._ + +_Bowl for toilette or writing table_] + +To complete the bottom side, leave the ellipse in the centre untouched, +and from its outline to the outer edge of the lip of the bowl, shave +with the knife so as to produce in all directions a curve corresponding +to those at each end of Fig. 4. Take a shaving off the flat bottom with +the smoothing plane, so as to remove the compass marks. Then file +judiciously and lightly where required, scrape perfectly smooth, and +finish with sand-paper. + +[***] This No. 14 is a very interesting study and a keen test of +application, care, and skill, anything like carelessness being sure to +leave its tell-tale marks. + + +NO. 15. HAMMER-HANDLE. + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 7, 12, 8, 9, 22, 30, 4, 31, 2, 13, and 24.) + +This study exercises ability in the mastery of elliptical lines, and in +the use of the spokeshave in Exercises 30 and 31. + +Cut from Beech a piece about 13 in. long, 1-1/2 in. wide, and 1-1/4 in. +thick. Plane one side and one edge at right angles. On the smooth side +thus produced, with the pencil sketch throughout the whole of Fig. 1 of +drawings No. 15. Then, with the turning saw, cut at right angles to the +curved lines on both edges throughout, and finish the shaping with the +spokeshave, taking care to maintain right angles. Then, on one of the +edges, with pencil, sketch throughout the whole of Fig. 2, and, with saw +and spokeshave, shape both sides in unison with that sketch, still +carefully maintaining right angles throughout. Then, with the knife, +shave off the corners so as to make four symmetrical chamfers +throughout. Then, with the spokeshave, remove the corners of the +chamfers, and proceed with the paring down until the required +symmetrical elliptical shape is arrived at, as shown by Figs. 1, 2, and +3. Saw across at right angles at each end to the exact length, and +finish with file, scraper, and sand-paper. + + +NO. 16. HANDLE FOR CHISEL OR FILE. + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 33, 18, 6, 2, 13, and 24.) + +From Beech cut a piece 6 in. long, 2 in. wide, and 1-1/4 in. thick. +Plane one side and one edge at right angles. Gauge for greatest width +shown from _A_ to _B_ in Fig. 1 of drawings No. 16, and also for +greatest thickness shown by _A_ to _B_ in Fig. 2. Plane the rough side +and edge down to the respective gauge lines, thus producing a piece of +equal thickness throughout, with the sides and edges at right angles. +Saw across one end at right angles. On the face thus produced on that +end sketch Fig. 3 complete. Fit a 1/4-in. Bit to the Brace and bore a +hole in the centre of the same end to the depth shown by the dotted +lines in the upper part of Fig. 1. Plane from _A_ to _C_ and from _B_ to +_D_, thus slightly tapering the sides and edges, but maintaining right +angles throughout. Measure from the thin flat end and mark the length of +5 in. Then, from the centre of the line _A_ to _B_ of Fig. 1, describe a +semicircle on each side as shown at bottom of Fig. 1. With turning saw +and chisel, shape each side of that end to the semicircle. Then plane +off the angles so far as to make the shape in unison throughout with +Fig. 3, presenting sides corresponding to Fig. 1, and edges +corresponding to Fig. 2. Then complete the shape of the thick end with +knife, as shown in Fig. 2, and finish with file, scraper, and +sand-paper. + +[Illustration: _No. 15._ + +_Hammer Handle_] + +[Illustration: _No. 16._ + +_Chisel Handle_] + + +NO. 17. SPOON. + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 19, 12, 8, 9, 10, 32, 22, 29, 14, 15, 26, 13, 2, +8, 6, 24, 16, and 1.) + +From very carefully selected Beech cut a piece 10 in. long, 2-1/2 in. +wide, and 1-3/4 in. thick. Plane one side and one edge at right angles. +Sketch on the flat edge the complete outline of Fig. 1 of drawings No. +17. With the turning saw, cut to the outline at right angles on the +upper side only, completing with chisel and file. On the shaped side +thus produced, make a centre line as shown in Fig. 2, then the cross +lines. Then, with compasses as guides and checks, mark the outlines of +the handle shown in Fig. 2, and, with freehand, sketch the ellipse. With +bits and brace drill a 7/8-in. hole right through at each centre marked +_b_, and a 5/8-in. hole at each centre marked _c_. Then, with the +turning saw, cut to the outline at right angles throughout, completing +the process with gouge, knife, and file. Then, in the manner described +for making the inside of No. 14, make the inside of the Spoon in unison +with the dotted curve of Fig. 1. + +The inside of the Spoon being thus completed, proceed with the outside. +Mark on the edge the outline _d d d d d_ for the under side of the +spoon. With the turning saw, cut out to that outline, and round with the +knife, as shown in the sections of Figs. 3, 4, and 5. Take care to keep +carefully outside the lines when cutting with the knife, and apply the +file, scraper, and sand-paper for finishing. + +[***] The under part of the spoon is a capital exercise in modelling +with the knife, and, if one process is completed before the next is +commenced, requires no more than ordinary application and care. + + +NO. 18. CHOPPING-BOARD. + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 12, 8, 9, 10, 14, 15, 26, 34, 13, 25, and 24.) + +[Illustration: _No. 17._ + +_Spoon._] + +This especially involves straight and square planing. Cut from Deal a +piece 20 in. long, 6-1/2 in. wide, and 1 in. thick. Plane one side +perfectly level and one edge perfectly straight at right angles. Gauge +and mark for width at 5-3/4 in. Find and mark the centre line _A_ to _B_ +in Fig. 1 of drawings No. 18. Set the compasses to a radius from _A_ to +_B_, and describe, with _A_ for the centre, the semicircle shown at the +top of the Fig. Fit a 1-in. Centre-bit to the Brace, and drill a hole +with _A_ for the centre, taking care that it goes vertically through at +right angles, and that there is no splitting when the bit is nearly +through. With the small turning saw, cut round the semicircle at right +angles, and, with the chisel, shave off and round the two corners that +spring from the semicircle, also at right angles. Then, measuring from +the centre of the rounded end at _B_, mark the entire length at 16-7/8 +in., and, with the tenon saw, cut off at the mark at right angles. Then +shave and round at right angles the two bottom corners. Plane the bottom +edge smooth, and file the edges where necessary. Set the gauge at 3/4 +in., mark with it the edge all round for thickness, and plane the rough +side down to the mark, perfectly level throughout. Then, with the +smoothing plane, take a thin shaving from the first side, merely enough +to remove the marks, taking care to maintain an accurate level. Finish +throughout with sand-paper. + +[***] The object of deferring the planing of the second side until so +late a period, is that, at the same time, minute chipping and roughness +of edge on that side, almost certain to result from the boring and +sawing, are at the same time disposed of. + + +NO. 19. HALF-YARD MEASURE. + +(In the original Sloyd model this is a half-metre measure.) + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 7, 12, 8, 9, 10, 25, 30, 15, 16, 6, 2, 13, and +24.) + +Select from Beech an exceptionally straight-grained piece 24 in. long, +1-1/4 in. wide, and 3/4 in. thick. Plane one side and one edge at right +angles, both scrupulously straight and even; then gauge, mark to a +nicety for 1-1/8 in. wide and 1/2 in. thick, and plane to the gauge +marks with great exactitude, thus producing a four-cornered rod of +uniform size throughout. Saw across one end at right angles. Measure +from that cut end, mark the length of 18 in., and saw across at the +mark. Then set the gauge precisely at 7/8 in., and, passing it along +each edge, mark on both sides for the lines _a_ to _b_ in Fig. 1 of +drawings No. 19, continuing the lines from end to end of the entire rod. +Then, with the square, mark across the place for _a a_, and there saw a +slit on each side down to the gauge line. Then proceed to the first +exercise in Obstacle Planing (No. 25.) Thus, pass the smooth plane along +each edge from _b_ to _a_, as far as the obstacle of the corner will +allow. Of course the planing cannot be continued into the corners, but, +whatever is left by the plane must be got out by the chisel and file. +Then, on each side, sketch for the handle, as shown in Fig. 1, the gauge +line, previously there, forming part of the sketch. Then, with the +turning-saw, cut out to the sketch and gauge lines. With the knife, make +the chamfers shown in Figs. 1 and 2. Then shave the corners and round +the end of the handle, as shown in Fig. 1. File and scrape lightly where +required, and finish with sand-paper. + +[Illustration: _No. 18._ + +_Knife or Chopping Board._] + +[Illustration: _No. 19._ + +_Yard Measure._] + + +NO. 20. SCOOP. + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 19, 12, 9, 14, 7, 15, 26, 32, 33, 29, 28, 13, +18, 6, 16, 2, and 24.) + +Cut from Beech a carefully-selected piece 11 in. long, 3 in. wide, and 3 +in. thick. Plane one side and one edge at right angles, with exceptional +care. Then, on the smooth edge sketch the outline of the upper side _a_ +to _a_ of Fig. 1 of drawings No. 20. Saw to the outline at right angles +throughout, afterwards correcting inaccuracies with chisel and plane. On +the smooth shaped side thus produced, sketch the outline of Fig. 2. With +1-1/2-in. centre bit drill the holes indicated by _b b_, right through. +Saw to the outline all round, carefully maintaining right angles +throughout and, as before, correcting inaccuracies with chisel and +plane. + +Then, at the upper edge of the invisible end at the bottom of Fig. 2, +find the centre represented by _c_ in Fig. 3. Fix compasses to a radius +from _c_ to _d_, and, from the centre before found, describe a +semicircle, and from the same centre another semicircle with a radius +about 1/8 in. longer. The centre of the inner of those semicircles +represents the bottom of the inside of the Scoop at _f_ of Fig. 1, and +the outer one represents the bottom of the outside at the same point. + +Next, with 1/8-in. gouge, make a furrow just inside the outline of the +face of the scoop, as previously recommended for Model No. 17. Then, +from that furrow as a starting-point, in all directions, with 7/8-gouge, +scoop out from back to front, to the depth indicated by the dotted line +of Fig. 1, and to the width at front of the semicircle previously drawn +on the end, but gradually diminishing the inner capacity so as to make +it smallest near the handle, in about the same proportion as indicated +for the bottom by the dotted line in Fig. 1. Then file and scrape inside +where required, and finish so far with sand-paper. + +Then, upon each edge, draw the outline of the bottom of the Scoop, shown +in Fig. 1. Saw throughout that outline at right angles. Then from _e_ to +_f_ plane all round to the semicircle indicated by the outer line of +Fig. 3 previously described on the end. Then, with the knife, cut the +handle to the section indicated by Fig. 4, and continue the shaping to +_e_ as indicated by the shaded lines of Fig. 1. File the handle and +outside of Scoop where required, and finish with sand-paper. + +[***] The most difficult part of this model is that shaded in Fig. 1, +which requires special attention and care. + +[Illustration: _No. 20._ + +_Scoop._] + + +NO. 21. HANGING PEGS OR RACK. + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 7, 12, 8, 9, 10, 14, 15, 26, 13, 18, 4, 26, 37, +29, 35, 39, 40, and 42.) + +From Deal cut out two pieces, one 18 in. long, 3-1/2 in. wide, and 7/8 +in. thick; the other 15 in. long, 1 in. wide, and 7/8 in. thick. + +Commencing with the larger piece, plane one side and one edge at right +angles. Then gauge-mark to a width of 3 in., and plane the rough edge +down to that mark. At the centre of the width draw a line from end, as +shown in Fig. 1, _f_ to _f_. On that line, with compasses, mark the +points indicated by _a_, _b_, _c_, of Fig. 1 of the drawings No. 21. At +each point drill a 5/8 in. hole right through, taking great care to +drill vertically. With the square, draw the cross lines at _d d_, the +intersections with the central line forming additional central points. +Set compasses to a radius of 7/8 in., and, from each of those central +points, describe a semicircle as shown in the Fig.; then from each of +the same central points describe an outer semicircle as also shown in +the Fig. With tenon saw make a nick at each of the four points _g_, in +each case reaching to the outer of the semicircles, each nick being +strictly at right angles. Then, with turning saw, follow the line of +each of the outer semicircles. Then dress the edges all round with +chisel and file as required. Then gauge-mark all round for a thickness +of 3/4 in., and plane the rough side down to the mark, evenly +throughout. Gauge-mark all round for the chamfer, in the proportion +shown in Fig. 1, and chamfer to the mark accordingly, using the plane +for the sides and the knife for the curves and corners. File throughout +where necessary, and finish with sand-paper. + +The smaller piece of Deal being to make the pegs with, plane it on one +side and one edge at right angles, then gauge-mark for a width of 3/4 +in. and for a thickness of 5/8 in., as illustrated in section by Fig. 4. +Saw across into three lengths of 5 in. each. Place them together on +their sides, and sketch one side of each as shown from _j_ to _k_ and +_l_ in Fig. 3, leaving the space from _j_ to _m_ untouched. With the try +square repeat the lines of this sketch on both sides of each. With saw +and knife cut each peg to the sketch, finishing the whole, excepting the +circular plug. Then at the inner end, find the centre as denoted in Fig. +4, and, using the same centre-bit as for Fig. 1, describe a circle mark +as dotted in Fig. 4. Then, with the tenon saw, cut by the "shoulder" to +a depth of 1/8 in., and pare the circle with the knife to the shoulder +_j_, so making a round plug, a little too large to go into the holes of +Fig. 1. Then, with the file, carefully reduce the size of each plug so +as to very accurately and tightly fit one hole at a time in Fig 1, where +wedging must not be tolerated. The perfection of this part of the work +is to be tested by ascertaining that the pegs are precisely in a line, +and that each one fits all round to the face of the board into which it +is inserted. + +[Illustration: _No. 21._ + +_Clothes Rack._] + +Having thus fitted each plug to its own hole, and marked it for +identification, the pegs may be completed. Cut down each one, with the +tenon saw, from _k_ to _x_, and, with the chisel, pare down from _j_ to +_k_, first making it square and afterwards slightly rounding it, as +shown in section of Fig. 4. With a sharp chisel cut round to the outside +of the semicircle for the top of the peg. File this round and then cut +the chamfer with the knife. File as required, and finish with +sand-paper. + +The pegs being thus made ready for fixing, clean the face of the board +(Fig. 1) with the smooth plane, and the edges and chamfers with +sand-paper. Then glue in each plug, using the try square to make sure +that they project at right angles. Then put the whole away for not less +than six hours, to allow the glue to set well. Then, as each plug has +been purposely made slightly too long, saw off each projection at the +back, and smooth the whole of the back with the plane, so effecting the +finishing touches. + +To avoid the necessity for nailing to the wall, get two pieces of +hoop-iron about 1-1/2 in. long and 1/2 in. wide. To adapt each piece for +its purpose, cut one end round and punch in a nail hole and two smaller +screw holes, as shown in Fig. 1. With a chisel cut a neat recess for +each iron so that it can be sunk flush with the back, as shown in Fig. +2, and, inserting the screws, the work will be complete. + + +NO. 22. FLOWER-POT STAND. + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 7, 12, 8, 9, 10, 34, 20, 2, 1, 13, 41, 42, and +35.) + +This is an especially good subject for straight sawing, straight +planing, and nailing. + +Cut from Deal a piece about 22 in. long, 6 in. wide, and 1 in. thick. +With the jack-plane face one side and one edge perfectly straight and +true at right angles. Gauge-mark for 13/16 in. thick, and plane the +rough side down to the gauge-line. Square one end with the plane, mark +to length shown in Fig. 1 of drawings No. 22, cut with tenon saw to +mark, and square the end with smooth plane. Then gauge-mark for +thickness of lath shown in Fig. 4, and saw off a shade inside the +gauge-lines. In like manner cut five laths, and plane each to the gauge +line. + +The laths being thus made, sufficient wood will be left for the +supports. Make the width of the supports the same as that of the laths. +After gauging and planing the supports to depth as Fig. 4, saw off to +the 6-in. length. Square the ends with a chisel and set out on each the +distance _a a_, Fig. 3. Gauge to _b b_, Fig. 4, and with the tenon saw, +cut to the gauge-line at _a a_, and with the knife remove the piece +between _a_ and _a_. Then mark on each lath the distance the supports +are from each end of the laths, and nail on the laths--the outside laths +first, then the centre one, and finally the other two. + +[Illustration: _No. 22._ + +_Flower Pot Stand._] + + +NO. 23. FOOT-STOOL. + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 7, 12, 8, 9, 10, 3, 4, 15, 44, 32, 29, 14, 13, +3, 5, 41, and 42.) + +Cut from Deal two pieces, one 12 in. long, 6 in. wide, and 1-1/4 in. +thick; the other 18 in. long, 3-1/4 in. wide, and 1 in. thick. + +The former piece is for the laths, and it must be prepared and cut as in +No. 22, making each lath to finish 1 in. wide, 1/2 in. thick, and 10-3/4 +in. long. + +The wood for the support must now be proceeded with. Plane one side and +one edge at right angles, and gauge-mark for width of 3 in. and +thickness of 1-7/8 in. Plane the rough side and edge down to the +gauge-marks. Then saw through the centre so as to make two pieces of 7/8 +in. thickness each. Place the pieces side by side, and nail them +together with two 1-1/2-in. wrought nails, so that both pieces can be +operated upon together. Then draw on one outer side the diagram shown on +the unshaded part of Fig. 1 of drawings No. 23, and, with the aid of +try-square and compasses, repeat the diagram on the other outer side. +Then cut off each end nearly to the end lines of the diagrams, and, with +the smoothing plane, finish at perfect right angles. Then, with a +5/8-in. centre-bit, drill at the spots marked _a a_ on each diagram, +penetrating on one side a little more than an inch, and finishing by +drilling from the other side in precise unison. The drilling throughout +must be exactly vertical. Then proceed with the arch shown in Fig. 1, +with the turning saw cutting out the three semicircles, which finish +with gouge and file, taking care to maintain right angles at every +point. Then separate the pieces, smooth each face with the smoothing +plane, and the circular parts with file and sand-paper. + +The respective parts being now complete, mark on each lath the distance +the supports are from the ends shown in Fig. 2. Then nail on the laths, +_b b_ first, _c_ next, and the others afterwards. Then, having first +taken care to punch down all the nails sufficiently, plane a few +shavings off the tops of the laths to make them clean and level. + +[***] If the laths are well and truly nailed on, their ends should be in +perfect line. Any defect in that respect must be remedied by carefully +and judiciously planing; but the perfection of work is when no such +planing is necessary. + + +NO. 24. BOOK-CARRIER. + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 12, 8, 9, 10, 3, 4, 15, 44, 32, 29, 14, 13, 3, +5, 41, and 42.) + +This is made partly in hard and partly in soft wood. + +[Illustration: _No. 23._ + +_Foot Stool._] + +[Illustration: _No. 24._ + +_Book Carrier_] + +For the handle, cut from Beech a piece 8 in. long, 2 in. wide, and 7/8 +in. thick. Plane one side and one edge. Then gauge-mark for 1-1/2 in. +wide and 3/4 in. thick, and plane the rough side and edge down to each +gauge-mark. Then draw on one side the diagram of the handle shown in +Fig. 1 of drawings No. 24. With the turning saw, cut to the inner and +outer lines of the diagram. With the plane, round the top of the handle, +as shown in Fig. 1, and, with the knife, round and smooth the other +parts, taking care that all the right angles are strictly maintained. +Then, with an 1/8-in. centre-bit, drill a hole for each screw, as shown +in the Fig., and, with the knife, counter-sink for the heads of the +screws. With the knife, make the chamfers at the corners of the curves, +as shown in Fig. 2, and finish completely with scraper and sand-paper. + +The handle being thus finished, cut from Deal a piece 24 in. long, 6-1/2 +in. wide, and 5/8 in. thick, and plane one side and one edge at right +angles. Gauge-mark for 6 in. wide, and 1/2 in. thick, and plane the +rough side and edge down to the gauge-marks. Square one end, measuring +from that end, saw off at 9 in. On the larger piece remaining, draw the +lines _a b_ and _a b_ in the positions shown in Fig. 2; then, with the +compasses, set off the spaces from _a_ to _c_ and from _a_ to _c_, _b_ +to _c_ and _b_ to _c_, _a_ to _d_ and _a_ to _d_, _b_ to _d_ and _b_ to +_d_. Then set the gauge to half the thickness, and with it mark the +edges on the four places indicated in each case from _c_ to _d_. Set the +bevel to the oblique line at each side of the dovetails, and transfer +this bevelled line to each side at points _c c c c_ and _d d d d_. Then, +with tenon saw, cut down each line _c d_ to the depth of the gauge line, +and, with a small chisel, remove the whole of the pieces between the +nicks made by the saw. This will result in two grooves for dovetailed +tongues, as shown above, _a a_ in Fig. 1, designed to strengthen and +prevent from warping the upper half of the holder. + +The grooves having been thus made ready, the dovetails must be prepared. +From Deal cut two pieces, each 9 in. long, 2-1/2 in. wide, and 3/4 in. +thick. Plane one side of each and bevel one edge to the pitch the bevel +was previously set for. Then, on the planed side, mark 2-1/4 in. at one +end, 1-1/4 in. at the other end, and take to that width, afterwards +bevelling the edge as before. Then fit each of the tongues provided, +driving them tight into their places. When they fit exactly, glue the +planed side and the edges, and drive them to their positions, being +careful not to split off the ends. Then allow time for the glue to set, +and cut off the projecting ends of the tongues and plane them and the +face of the board to a level. Cut off to exact length, measuring from +the lines _a b_. Then smooth both boards with the plane, nail them +together with two small nails, and square the ends. Then gauge and nick +with the saw for the recesses _e e_, removing the wood from each recess +with the knife, so making grooves for a strap to pass round. Then screw +on the handle in the manner indicated by both Figs., and finish as +required with sand-paper. + + +NO. 25. LADLE. + +(Requiring Exercises 5, 19, 12, 9, 10, 32, 15, 33, 29, 14, 26, 28, 22, +49, 31, 1, 6, 16, 13, and 24.) + +[Illustration: _No. 25._ + +_Ladle._] + +Cut from Beech a piece 16 in. long, 4 in. wide, and 4 in. thick. The +manner of proceeding resembles that required for No. 17. Plane one side +and one edge at right angles, and draw on the planed side the diagram +shown in Fig. 2 of drawings No. 25. With a 1-1/4-in. centre-bit, drill +two holes right through, as indicated by the dotted circles. Saw round +the outside lines of the diagram, taking care not to obliterate the +lines. Trim exactly to the lines with a chisel, gouge, and file. Then +mark on each edge the upper curved line of Fig. 1. Saw to that line +without obliterating it, finishing with spokeshave, plane, chisel, and +file. Then cut out the bowl of the ladle, using a small gouge for the +edge, and a larger one for obtaining the depth, which must be governed +by the white section shown in Fig. 3, and finished with file, scraper, +and sand-paper before proceeding with the under side. When the bowl is +thus finished, mark on each side the curve for the under side shown in +Fig. 1. Saw just outside the line, and proceed to shape the under +side--the bowl to the shaded section of Fig. 3, and the handle to the +section of Fig. 4. For finishing the bowl, fix the handle in the bench +screw, and pare with a wide chisel, afterwards applying the knife for +completing the bowl and handle. For the finishing touches use the file, +scraper, and sand-paper. + + +END. + + +TURNBULL AND SPEARS, PRINTERS, EDINBURGH. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Hand-Craft, by John D. Sutcliffe + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HAND-CRAFT *** + +***** This file should be named 37447.txt or 37447.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/7/4/4/37447/ + +Produced by Jonathan Ingram, Harry Lame and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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