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diff --git a/37362-h/37362-h.htm b/37362-h/37362-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9db03d3 --- /dev/null +++ b/37362-h/37362-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,5479 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/html4/loose.dtd"> +<HTML><HEAD> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1"> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css"> + <title> + Beautiful Bulbous Plants, by John Weathers, F.R.H.S, N.R.S.. A Project Gutenberg eBook. </title> + <style type="text/css"> + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; +} + +p { + margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; +} +.smaller {font-size:small;} + +.larger {font-size:large;} + +.padtop {margin-top:4em;} + +table { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; +} +td { + TEXT-ALIGN: left +} + +.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; +} /* page numbers */ + +.sideleftsm { + width: 30%; + padding-bottom: .5em; + padding-top: .5em; + padding-left: 0; + padding-right: .5em; + float: left; + clear: left; + text-align: left; + margin-top: 1em; + font-size: 0.7em; + color: black; + background: 0; + border: 0; +} + +.center {text-align: center;} + +.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + +.caption {font-weight: bold;} + +.ccaption {font-weight: bold; text-align:center} +.narrowcaption {font-weight: bold; + margin-left:10%; + margin-right:10%; + } + +.tbox { + margin-left:20%; + margin-right:20%; + BORDER-BOTTOM: 1px solid; + BORDER-LEFT: 1px solid; + PADDING-BOTTOM: 0.5em; PADDING-LEFT: 0em; + PADDING-RIGHT: 0em; BACKGROUND: #eeeeee; + BORDER-TOP: 1px solid; border-right: 1px solid; + PADDING-TOP: 0.5em +} +.headbox { + margin-left:20%; + margin-right:2%; + PADDING-BOTTOM: 0.5em; PADDING-LEFT: 0em; + PADDING-RIGHT: 0em; + PADDING-TOP: 0.5em +} + +/* Heading */ +.headleft { + margin-left: 10%; + text-align: left; + font-size: 1.6em +} +.headcenter { + margin-left: 15%; + text-align: left; + font-size: 1.6em +} +.headright { + margin-right: 10%; + text-align: right; + font-size: 1.6em +} + +/* Images */ +.figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; +} + +.figright { + TEXT-ALIGN: center; PADDING-BOTTOM: 1em; MARGIN: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 1em; PADDING-RIGHT: 1em; FONT-SIZE: 0.8em; PADDING-TOP: 1em; + float: right; + clear: right + +} +.trnote { + margin-left:20%; + margin-right:20%; + text-align: left; +} +.rthead { + margin-right:10%; + text-align: right; +} + +/* Poetry */ +.poem { + margin-left:10%; + margin-right:10%; + text-align: left; +} + +.poem br {display: none;} + +.poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + +.poem span.i0 { + display: block; + margin-left: 0em; + padding-left: 3em; + text-indent: -3em; +} + +.poem span.i2 { + display: block; + margin-left: 2em; + padding-left: 3em; + text-indent: -3em; +} + +.poem span.i4 { + display: block; + margin-left: 4em; + padding-left: 3em; + text-indent: -3em; +} + + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Beautiful Bulbous Plants, by John Weathers + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Beautiful Bulbous Plants + For the Open Air + +Author: John Weathers + +Release Date: September 9, 2011 [EBook #37362] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEAUTIFUL BULBOUS PLANTS *** + + + + +Produced by Chris Curnow, Hazel Batey, Lindy Walsh and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<br> + + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/icover.jpg" width="350" height="525" alt="" title=""> +</div> + +<h1>BEAUTIFUL BULBOUS PLANTS FOR THE OPEN AIR.</h1> + +<div class="tbox"> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="center"><H2>The "Beautiful" Series.</h2></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center">By JOHN WEATHERS, F.R.H.S., N.R.S.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><hr style="width: 15%;"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><i>With 33 Coloured Plates by John Allen,</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><i>Large Crown 8vo., Cloth Gilt, 6/-each.</i></td></tr> +<tr><td align="center"><hr style="width: 15%;"></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><b>Beautiful Roses</b> for Garden and</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Greenhouse. Culture, Propagation,</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Pruning.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><b>Beautiful Flowering Trees and</b></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><b> Shrubs</b> for British and Irish</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Gardens.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><b>Beautiful Garden Flowers</b> for</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Town and Country.</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"></td></tr> +</table></div><br> + + + + + + +<p class="ccaption"> FRONTISPIECE. <a name="PLATE_1" id="PLATE_1"></a>PLATE 1.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-1.jpg" width="350" height="519" alt="FRONTISPIECE. IXIAS (1-6)" title="IXIAS (1-6)"> +<span class="caption">IXIAS (1-6)</span> +</div> + + +<div class="headbox"> +<p class="headleft">BEAUTIFUL</p> +<p class="headcenter">BULBOUS<span class=sideleftsm>FOR THE<br> +OPEN AIR</span></p><p class="headright">PLANTS</p> +</div> + +<p class='padtop smaller center'>BY</p> +<p class='larger center'>JOHN WEATHERS, F.R.H.S., N.R.S.,</p> + +<p class='padtop smaller center'>LECTURER ON HORTICULTURE TO THE MIDDLESEX COUNTY COUNCIL +FORMERLY OF THE ROYAL GARDENS, KEW: ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY, &C. +AUTHOR OF "A PRACTICAL GUIDE TO GARDEN PLANTS." "BEAUTIFUL ROSES." +"BEAUTIFUL FLOWERING TREES AND SHRUBS," "BEAUTIFUL GARDEN FLOWERS."</p> + + + + + +<p class='padtop larger center'><b>With 33 full page Coloured Plates by Mrs. Philip Hensley.</b></p> + +<p class='padtop smaller center'>LONDON:<br> +SIMPKIN, MARSHALL, HAMILTON, KENT, & CO., <span class="smcap">Ltd</span>.</p> +<p class='padtop smaller center'>DAY & SON +(25 YEARS LITHOGRAPHERS TO THE QUEEN AND THE PRINCE OF WALES), +32, WESTMINSTER MANSIONS, S.W.</p> + + + + +<br> +<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE.</h2> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" > + +<p>Although many articles have appeared from time to +time in the horticultural newspapers and periodicals +dealing with various aspects of the subject, it cannot +be said that Bulbous Plants have hitherto received +the attention they deserve in gardening literature. +This volume therefore appears at an opportune moment +to meet a recognised want, and in fulfilment of the +promise made in the preface to "<span class="smcap">Beautiful Garden +Flowers</span>."</p> + +<p>While Bulbous Plants as a class have been somewhat +neglected, it may be noted that one or two +families have been dealt with specially in years gone +by. In this connection mention may be made of the +magnificent "Monograph of the Genus Lilium," by +Mr. H. J. Elwes; the "Narcissus, its History and +Culture," by Mr. F. W. Burbidge, M.A., and Mr. +J. G. Baker, F.R.S.; a "History of the Genus Crocus," +by the Hon. and Rev. Dean Herbert, whose original +drawings and MS. notes are preserved in the Lindley +Library. Mr. Geo. Maw has also dealt specially with +the "Crocus"; and more recently the Rev. Eugene +Bourne with the "Daffodil"; Miss Jekyle and +Mr. Goldring with "Lilies," &c.</p> + +<p>A glance at the coloured plates will perhaps be +sufficient to give the reader a good idea as to the +numerous kinds of Bulbous Plants now grown in +gardens, and of the marvellous range of colour to be +found in their blossoms. It has not been considered +advisable to include in this volume such hothouse +bulbous plants as Eucharis, Crinum, Hymenocallis, +Pancratium, but only those kinds that are most likely +to give general, if not universal, satisfaction when +grown in the open air according to the cultural +instructions to be found under the heads of the +various genera.</p> + +<p>In the preparation of this work I have to +acknowledge my indebtedness to the Director of the +Royal Gardens, Kew, through whose kindness I have +had opportunities for examining the bulbs or corms +of the rarer plants referred to in the letterpress.</p> + +<p>I also owe my best thanks for the specimens +kindly supplied to illustrate the work by A. Worsley, +Esq., of Isleworth; Messrs. Barr and Son, of Covent +Garden; Messrs. Wallace and Company, of Colchester; +Messrs. Ware, of Feltham; and Mr. Perry, of +Winchmore Hill.</p> + + +<p class="rthead">JOHN WEATHERS.</p><br> + + + +<br> +<h2><a name="LIST_OF_PLATES" id="LIST_OF_PLATES"></a>LIST OF PLATES.</h2> +<hr style="width: 45%;" > + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_1">1. Ixias</a> (<i>Frontispiece</i>)</td><td align="right">1-6</td><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_18">18. Camassia Cusicki</a></td><td align="right">70</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_2">2. Scilla sibirica multiflora</a></td><td align="right">7</td><td align="left"> Lilium pyrenaicum</td><td align="right">71</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Galanthus nivalus</td><td align="right">8</td><td align="left"> Allium Erdelii</td><td align="right">72</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Chionodoxa Luciliæ</td><td align="right">9</td><td align="left"> Ixiolirion Pallasi</td><td align="right">73</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Hyacinthus azureus</td><td align="right">10</td><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_19">19. Ornithogalum pyramidale</a></td><td align="right">74</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_3">3. Bulbous Irises:</a></td><td align="right"></td><td align="left"> Brevoortia Ida-Maia</td><td align="right">75</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> I. Histrio</td><td align="right">11</td><td align="left"> Brodiæa laxa</td><td align="right">76</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> I. Bakeriana</td><td align="right">12</td><td align="left"> Brodiæa ixioides</td><td align="right">77</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> I. Kolpakowskyana</td><td align="right">13</td><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_20">20. Galtonia candicans</a></td><td align="right">78</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> I. Danfordiæ</td><td align="right">14</td><td align="left"> Sisyrinchium grandiflorum</td><td align="right">79</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> I. persica</td><td align="right">15</td><td align="left"> Brodiæa Howelli lilacina</td><td align="right">80</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_4">4. Daffodils:</a></td><td align="right"></td><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_21">21. Early-flowering Gladioli</a></td><td align="right">81-83</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Ellen Willmott</td><td align="right">16</td><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_22">22. Calochortus venustus</a></td><td align="right">84</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Mdme. de Graaff</td><td align="right">17</td><td align="left"> Calochortus albus</td><td align="right">85</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Horsfieldi</td><td align="right">18</td><td align="left"> Calochortus pulchellus</td><td align="right">86</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_5">5. Daffodils:</a></td><td align="right"></td><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_23">23. Gladiolus oppositiflorus</a></td><td align="right">87</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Cyclamineus</td><td align="right">19</td><td align="left"> Lilium canadense, vars.</td><td align="right">88-89</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Triandrus albus</td><td align="right">20</td><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_24">24. Lilium tigrinum</a></td><td align="right">90</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Princess Mary of Cambridge</td><td align="right">21</td><td align="left"> Brodiæa Bridgesi</td><td align="right">91</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Gloria Mundi</td><td align="right">22</td><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_25">25. Lilium tenuifolium</a></td><td align="right">92</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Sir Watkin</td><td align="right">23</td><td align="left"> Lilium Hansoni</td><td align="right">93</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_6">6. Daffodils:</a></td><td align="right"></td><td align="left"> Lilium longiflorumb</td><td align="right">94</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Grand Monarque</td><td align="right">24</td><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_26">26. Lilium Martagon album</a></td><td align="right">95</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Soleil d'or</td><td align="right">25</td><td align="left"> Watsonia Ardernei</td><td align="right">96</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Weardale perfection</td><td align="right">26</td><td align="left"> Lilium rubellum</td><td align="right">97</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Lulworth</td><td align="right">27</td><td align="left"> Lilium colchicum</td><td align="right">98</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_7">7. Gardenia Narcissus</a></td><td align="right">28</td><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_27">27. Watsonia Meriana</a></td><td align="right">99</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Poet's Narcissus</td><td align="right">29</td><td align="left"> Watsonia alba</td><td align="right">100</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Hyacinthus amethystinus</td><td align="right">30</td><td align="left"> Watsonia angusta</td><td align="right">101</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_8">8. Fritillarias:</a></td><td align="right"></td><td align="left"> Montbretia crocosmiæflora</td><td align="right">102</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> F. Moggridgei</td><td align="right">31</td><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_28">28. Gladiolus Nanceianus</a></td><td align="right">103</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> F. Walujewi</td><td align="right">32</td><td align="left"> Gladiolus Lemoineib</td><td align="right">104</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> F. Meleagris alba</td><td align="right">33</td><td align="left"> Gladiolus Childsi</td><td align="right">105</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> F. recurva</td><td align="right">34</td><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_29">29. Zephyranthes Atamasco</a></td><td align="right">106</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_9">9. Tulips</a></td><td align="right">35-38</td><td align="left"> Ornithogalum arabicum</td><td align="right">107</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_10">10. Tulips</a></td><td align="right">39-42</td><td align="left"> Ornithogalum nutans</td><td align="right">108</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_11">11. Hyacinths</a></td><td align="right">43-46</td><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_30">30. Crinum Moorei</a></td><td align="right">109</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_12">12. Leucojum vernum</a></td><td align="right">47</td><td align="left"> Tigridia lilacea</td><td align="right">110</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Muscari conicum</td><td align="right">48</td><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_31">31. Belladonna Lily</a></td><td align="right">111</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Erythronium Johnsoni</td><td align="right">49</td><td align="left"> Dierama pulcherrima</td><td align="right">112</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Tecophilæa cyanocrocus</td><td align="right">50</td><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_32">32. Tulbaghia violacea</a></td><td align="right">113</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_13">13. Brodiæa uniflora</a></td><td align="right">51-52</td><td align="left"> Zephyranthes candida</td><td align="right">114</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Chionodoxa sardensisb</td><td align="right">53</td><td align="left"> Crinum Powelli album</td><td align="right">115</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Erythronium Dens-Canis</td><td align="right">54-55</td><td align="left"> Lycoris squamigerab</td><td align="right">116</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_14">14. English Irises</a></td><td align="right">56-59</td><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_33">33. Crocus medius</a></td><td align="right">117</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_15">15. Spanish Irises</a></td><td align="right">60-63</td><td align="left"> Colchicum speciosum</td><td align="right">118</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_16">16. Madonna Lily</a></td><td align="right">64</td><td align="left"> Sternbergia lutea</td><td align="right">119</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Fritillaria imperialis, vars.</td><td align="right">65-66</td><td align="left"> Sternbergia macrantha</td><td align="right">120</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#PLATE_17">17. Lilium croceum</a></td><td align="right">67</td><td align="left"> Crocus ochroleucus</td><td align="right">121</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Allium Moly</td><td align="right">68</td><td align="left"> Crocus speciosus</td><td align="right">122</td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"> Scilla peruviana albab</td><td align="right">69</td></tr> +</table></div> +<br> +<br> +<h2>Contents</h2> +<hr style="width: 45%;" > +<ul> +<li><a href="#PREFACE">Preface</a></li> + +<li><a href="#LIST_OF_PLATES">List of Plates</a></li> + +<li><a href="#INDEX">Index</a></li> + +<li><a href="#INTRODUCTION">Introduction</a></li> + +<li><a href="#GEOGRAPHICAL_DISTRIBUTION">Geographical Distribution</a></li> + +<li><a href="#SOMETHING_ABOUT_BULBS_AND_CORMS">Something about Bulbs and Corms</a></li> + +<li><a href="#SOIL_FOR_BULBOUS_PLANTS">Soil for Bulbous Plants</a></li> + +<li><a href="#HINTS_TO_BEGINNERS">Hints to Beginners</a></li> + +<li><a href="#HOW_DEEP_SHOULD_BULBS_BE_PLANTED">How Deep should Bulbs be Planted?</a></li> + +<li><a href="#THE_NATURAL_SINKING_OF_BULBS_AND_CORMS">Natural Sinking of Bulbs and Corms</a></li> + +<li><a href="#Bulbous_Plants_without_Contractile_Roots">Bulbs without Contractile Roots</a></li> + +<li><a href="#PROPAGATION_OF_BULBOUS_PLANTS">Propagation of Bulbous Plants:—</a> + By <a href="#Offsets">Offsets</a>, <a href="#Bulbils">Bulbils</a>, <a href="#Leaf-Scales">Leaf-Scales</a>, + <a href="#Division">Division</a>, <a href="#Sowing_Seeds">Seeds</a>.</li> + +<li><a href="#LIFTING_AND_STORING_BULBS">Lifting and Storing Bulbs</a></li> + +<li><a href="#COMBINATIONS_OF_BULBOUS_AND_NON-BULBOUS_PLANTS">Combinations of Bulbous and Non-Bulbous Plants</a></li> + +<li><a href="#NATURALISING_BULBOUS_PLANTS_IN_THE_GRASS">Naturalising Bulbous Plants in the Grass</a></li> + +<li><a href="#BULBOUS_PLANTS_UNDER_TREES_AND_SHRUBS">Bulbous Plants under Trees and Shrubs</a></li> + +<li><a href="#BULBOUS_PLANTS_FOR_CUT_FLOWERS">Bulbous Plants for Cut Flowers</a></li> + +<li><a href="#BULBOUS_PLANTS_FOR_COLD_GREENHOUSES">Bulbous Plants for Cold Greenhouses</a></li> + +<li><a href="#BULBOUS_PLANTS_FOR_WINDOW_BOXES">Bulbous Plants for Window Boxes</a></li> + +<li><a href="#DESCRIPTIONS_CULTURE">Descriptions, Culture, Propagation, &c. + of the Best Bulbous Plants for the Open Air</a></li> + +<li><a href="#ENEMIES_OF_BULBOUS_PLANTS">Enemies of Bulbous Plants</a></li> + +<li><a href="#MANURING_BULBOUS_PLANTS">Manuring Bulbous Plants</a></li></ul><br> + + +<br> +<h2><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX</h2> +<hr style="width: 45%;" > + +<div class="left"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Page_93">Acis</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#HABRANTHUS">Habranthus</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#CALOCHORTUS">Lily Mariposa</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Ajax_Daffodils">Ajax Daffodils</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#BOBARTIA">Homeria</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Croceum">Lily Orange</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ALLIUM">Allium</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#MUSCARI">Hyacinth, Grape</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Page_115">Lily Sacred</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#AMARYLLIS">Amaryllis</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Page_108">Hyacinth, Musk</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Superbum">Lily Swamp</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Angels_Tears">Angel's Tears</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Ostrich_Feather">Hyacinth, Ostrich feather</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Page_103">Lily Tiger</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Anomatheca">Anomatheca</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Star_Hyacinth">Hyacinth, Star</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Page_102">Lily Turk's Cap</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ANTHOLYZA">Antholyza</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Bluebell">Hyacinth, Wood</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Lime_and_Soot">Lime</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#BABIANA">Babiana</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Hyacinths_in_Glasses">Hyacinths in glasses</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#liver_of_sulphur">Liver of Sulphur</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Baboon_Root">Baboon Root</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Hyacinths_in_Pots">Hyacinths in pots</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#LYCORIS">Lycoris</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#basal_rot">Basal rot</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#HYACINTHUS">Hyacinthus</a></td><td align="left">Madonna Lily <a href="#Candidum">[1]</a> <a href="#Page_146">[2]</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#basic_slag">Basic Slag</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#IRIS">Iris</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#MANURING_BULBOUS_PLANTS">Manures for Bulbs</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#HINTS_TO_BEGINNERS">Beginners, Hints to</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#IRIS">Iris, English</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#COLCHICUM">Meadow Saffron</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Belladonna_Lily">Belladonna Lily</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#IRIS">Iris, Spanish</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#MERENDERA">Merendera</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#BESSERA">Bessera</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#IXIA">Ixia</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Page_144">Merodon</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Bicolor_Daffodils">Bicolor Daffodils</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#IXIOLIRION">Ixiolirion</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#MILLA">Milla</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#BLOOMERIA">Bloomeria</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#SPREKELIA">Jacobæa Lily</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#TRITONIA">Montbretia</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Bluebell">Bluebell</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Page_116">Jonquil</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#MUSCARI">Muscari</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Spanish_Bluebell">Bluebell Spanish</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Page_116">Jonquil, Queen Anne's</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#NARCISSUS">Narcissus</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#BOBARTIA">Bobartia</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Page_115">Joss Flower</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Narcissus_fly">Narcissus Fly</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#BRAVOA">Bravoa</a></td><td align="left">Kainit <a href="#kainit">[1]</a> <a href="#Kainit149">[2]</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#N_poeticus">Narcissus Poet's</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#BREVOORTIA">Brevoortia</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#LAPEYROUSIA">Lapeyrousia</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Polyanthus">Narcissus Polyantha</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#BRODIAEA">Brodiæa</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Leaf-Scales">Leaf-scales</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Polyanthus">Narcissus Tazetta</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Bulbils">Bulbils</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#importance_of_Green_Leaves">Leaves, importance of</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#When_to_Plant">Narcissus When to plant</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#BULBOCODIUM">Bulbocodium</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Ajax_Daffodils">Lent Lily</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#NATURALISING_BULBOUS_PLANTS_IN_THE_GRASS">Naturalising bulbs</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Buying_Bulbs">Bulbs, buying</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Pardalinum">Leopard Lily</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#kainit">Nitrate of soda</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#SOMETHING_ABOUT_BULBS_AND_CORMS">Bulbs, and corms</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#LEUCOJUM">Leucojum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#NOTHOSCORDUM">Nothoscordum</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#NATURALISING_BULBOUS_PLANTS_IN_THE_GRASS">Bulbs, in grass</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#LILIUM">Lilium</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Offsets">Offsets</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#LIFTING_AND_STORING_BULBS">Bulbs, lifting</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Alexandrae">Lilium, Alexandræ</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Page_98">Orange Lily</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#THE_NATURAL_SINKING_OF_BULBS_AND_CORMS">Bulbs, sinking of</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Auratum">Lilium, auratum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#ORNITHOGALUM">Ornithogalum</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#LIFTING_AND_STORING_BULBS">Bulbs, storing</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Batemanniae">Lilium, Batemanniæ</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#PANCRATIUM">Pancratium</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Butter_and_Eggs">Butter and Eggs</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Humboldti">Lilium, Bloomerianum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#HOW_DEEP_SHOULD_BULBS_BE_PLANTED">Planting bulbs</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#CALOCHORTUS">Calochortus</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Browni">Lilium, Browni</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#POLIANTHES">Polianthes</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Calliprora_lutea">Calliprora lutea</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Bulbiferum">Lilium, bulbiferum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Poor_Mens">Poor Men's Orchids</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#CAMASSIA">Camassia</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Burbank">Lilium, Burbanki</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#PROPAGATION_OF_BULBOUS_PLANTS">Propagation</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Quamash">Camass Root</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Canadense">Lilium, canadense</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#PUSCHKINIA">Puschkinia</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#CHIONODOXA">Chionodoxa</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Candidum">Lilium, candidum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Quamash">Quamash</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Chiono-scilla">Chiono-Scilla</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Catesbae">Lilium, Catesbæi</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Page_27">Roots, contractile</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#CHLOROGALUM">Chlorogalum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Chalcedonicum">Lilium, chalcedonicum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Page_115">Sacred Lily</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#cloves">Cloves</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Monadelphum">Lilium, colchicum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#salicylic">Salicylic Acid</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Codlins_and_Cream">Codlins and Cream</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Concolor">Lilium, concolor</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#salt">Salt</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#COLCHICUM">Colchicum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Cordifolium">Lilium, cordifolium</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#SCHIZOSTYLIS">Schizostylis</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#COMBINATIONS_OF_BULBOUS_AND_NON-BULBOUS_PLANTS">Combinations with Bulbs</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Croceum">Lilium, croceum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#SCILLA">Scilla</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Page_27">Contractile Roots</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Dalhansoni">Lilium, Dalhansoni</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Sowing_Seeds">Seed sowing</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Corbularia">Corbularia</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Dauricum">Lilium, dauricum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#SISYRINCHIUM">Sisyrinchium</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Definition_of_a_Corm">Corms</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Elegans">Lilium elegans</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Page_77">Snowdrop</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#GLADIOLUS">Corn Flag</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Testaceum">Lilium, excelsum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#LEUCOJUM">Snowflake</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#IXIA">Corn Lily</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Giganteum">Lilium, giganteum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#CHLOROGALUM">Soap Plant</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#CRINUM">Crinum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Grayi">Lilium, Grayi</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#SOIL_FOR_BULBOUS_PLANTS">Soil for bulbs</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#CROCOSMA">Crocosma</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Hansoni">Lilium, Hansoni</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Lime_and_Soot">Soot</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#CROCUS">Crocus</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Henryi">Lilium, Henryi</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#SPARAXIS">Sparaxis</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left">Crocus Autumn <a href="#Autumn-Flowering_Crocuses">[1]</a> <a href="#Page_65">[2]</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Humboldti">Lilium, Humboldti</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#sparrow">Sparrows</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#TECOPHILAEA">Crocus Chilian</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Japonicum">Lilium, japonicum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Page_30">Spawn</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Cloth_of_Silver">Crocus Cloth of Gold</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Kewense">Lilium, kewense</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#SPREKELIA">Sprekelia</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Cloth_of_Silver">Crocus Cloth of Silver</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Krameri">Lilium, Krameri</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#SCILLA">Squill</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#BULBOUS_PLANTS_FOR_CUT_FLOWERS">Cut Flowers, bulbs for</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Speciosum">Lilium, lancifolium</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#ORNITHOGALUM">Star of Bethlehem</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Page_59">Cyclobothra</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Leichtlini">Lilium, Leichtlini</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#GAGEA">Star of Bethlehem yellow</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Page_108">Daffodils</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Monadelphum">Lilium, Loddigesianum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#STERNBERGIA">Sternbergia</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Ajax_Daffodils">Daffodils Ajax</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Longiflorum">Lilium, longiflorum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#LIFTING_AND_STORING_BULBS">Storing bulbs</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Bicolor_Daffodils">Daffodils Bicolor</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Maritimum">Lilium, maritimum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Page_149">Superphosphate</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Hooped_Petticoat">Daffodils Hooped Petticoat</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Marhan">Lilium, Marhan</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Superbum">Swamp Lily</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Star_Daffodils">Daffodils Star</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Martagon">Lilium, Martagon</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#GLADIOLUS">Sword Lily</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Scilly_Isle">Daffodils in Scilly Isles</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Monadelphum">Lilium, monadelphum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#TECOPHILAEA">Tecophilæa</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Tenby">Daffodils Tenby</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Pardalinum">Lilium, pardalinum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#TIGRIDIA">Tiger Flower</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#DIERAMA">Dierama</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Pomponium">Lilium, pomponium</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Page_103">Tiger Lily</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ERYTHRONIUM">Dog's Tooth Violet</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Parryi">Lilium, Parryi</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#TIGRIDIA">Tigridia</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ENEMIES_OF_BULBOUS_PLANTS">Enemies of bulbous plants</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Pyrenaicum">Lilium, pyrenaicum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#BULBOUS_PLANTS_UNDER_TREES_AND_SHRUBS">Trees and Shrubs, bulbs under</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#ERYTHRONIUM">Erythronium</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Roezli">Lilium, Roezli</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#TRITONIA">Tritonia</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#EUCOMIS">Eucomis</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Rubellum">Lilium, rubellum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#POLIANTHES">Tuberose</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#FERRARIA">Ferraria</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Speciosum">Lilium, speciosum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#TULBAGHIA">Tulbaghia</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#BREVOORTIA">Fire Cracker, Californian</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Superbum">Lilium, superbum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#TULIPA">Tulip</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#GLADIOLUS">Flag, Corn</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Monadelphum">Lilium, Szovitsianum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Darwin_Tulips">Tulip, Cottage</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#When_to_pick_Flowers">Flowers, when to pick</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Tenuifolium">Lilium, tenuifolium</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Darwin_Tulips">Tulip, Darwin</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#FRITILLARIA">Fritillaria</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Testaceum">Lilium, testaceum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Dragon">Tulip, Dragon</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Page_145">Fungoid diseases</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Elegans">Lilium, Thunbergianum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Page_137">Tulip, Mayflowering</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#GAGEA">Gagea</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Tigrinum">Lilium, tigrinum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Dragon">Tulip, Parrot</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#GALANTHUS">Galanthus</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Umbellatum">Lilium, umbellatum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Seedling_Tulips">Tulip, Seedling</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#GALTONIA">Galtonia</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Washingtonianum">Lilium, Washingtonianum</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#CALOCHORTUS">Tulip, Star</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Page_116">Ganymede's Cup</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Distribution_of_Lilies">Lilies, distribution of</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Wild_Tulip">Tulip, Wild</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#GLADIOLUS">Gladiolus</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Time_and_Depth_of_Planting">Lilies, planting</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Page_102">Turk's Cap Lily</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Page_63">Glory of the Snow</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Page_103">Lilies, for damp soils</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#WATSONIA">Watsonia</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#NATURALISING_BULBOUS_PLANTS_IN_THE_GRASS">Grass, bulbs in the</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Page_146">Lily Disease</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#BULBOUS_PLANTS_FOR_WINDOW_BOXES">Window boxes, bulbs for</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#importance_of_Green_Leaves">Green leaves, value of</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Page_126">Lily of the Field</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#STERNBERGIA">Winter Daffodil</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#BULBOUS_PLANTS_FOR_COLD_GREENHOUSES">Greenhouses, bulbs for</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#SPREKELIA">Lily Jacobæa</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Wireworms_Grubs">Wireworms</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"><a href="#Wireworms_Grubs">Grubs</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#Pardalinum">Lily Leopard</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#ZEPHYRANTHES">Zephyranthes</a></td></tr> +<tr><td align="left"></td><td align="left">Lily Madonna <a href="#Candidum">[1]</a> <a href="#Page_146">[2]</a></td><td align="left"><a href="#ZEPHYRANTHES">Zephyr Flower</a></td></tr> +</table></div><br> + +<br> +<h1>BEAUTIFUL BULBOUS PLANTS.</h1> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" > + +<h2><a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION.</h2> + + +<p>The cultivation of Bulbous Plants has reached a +point of popularity at the present day that it has +never before attained. And there is every reason to +believe that this popularity is increasing from year to +year as more people become better acquainted with +these plants, and the ease with which the great +majority of them may be grown in almost any garden. +Indeed there are now so many kinds of bulbous +plants that there is no difficulty in making a selection +to suit the smallest garden or the most modest purse.</p> + +<p>Of course, some kinds, such as Tulips, Daffodils +and Narcissi, Hyacinths, Crocuses, Snowdrops, Scillas, +Bluebells, Chionodoxas, Grape Hyacinths, Lilies, +Colchicums, Gladioli, and Montbretias, will be always +probably amongst the first favourites with garden +lovers. But there is no reason why the Mariposa +Lilies and Star Tulips, the Brodiæas and Millas, the +Sternbergias and Fritillarias, and many others should<span class="pagenum">[Pg 2]</span> +not in the course of time become almost equally +popular when they become better known.</p> + +<p>Some kinds of bulbous plants have been known +in British Gardens—and no doubt in continental ones +also—ever since such a thing as gardening proper +came to be distinguished from mere agriculture. Our +native or naturalised bulbs—such as the Snake's Head +Fritillary (<i>Fritillaria Meleagris</i>), the Yellow Star of +Bethlehem (<i>Gagea lutea</i>), as well as the white ones +(<i>Ornithogalum nutans</i>, <i>pyrenaicum</i>, and <i>umbellatum</i>), +the Autumn Crocus (<i>Colchicum autumnale</i>), the Lent +Lily or Daffodil (<i>Narcissus Pseudo-Narcissus</i>), the +Snowdrop (<i>Galanthus nivalis</i>), the Snowflake (<i>Leucojum +vernum</i>), the Grape Hyacinth (<i>Muscari racemosum</i>), +the Squill (<i>Scilla verna</i>), and the Bluebell (<i>S. festalis</i>), +the Martagon Lily (<i>Lilium Martagon</i>), and the <a name="Wild_Tulip" id="Wild_Tulip"></a><a href="#INDEX">Wild Tulip</a> +(<i>Tulipa sylvestris</i>) have been grown as garden plants for 400 years or more.</p> + +<p>The great monastic establishments were the seats +of gardening as of learning, and it is in connection +with them we find the first traces of bulbous or any +other plants being intelligently cultivated. Besides +the plants mentioned, our earliest garden records +show that such bulbous plants as the Dog's Tooth +Violet (<i>Erythronium Dens-Canis</i>), the Crown Imperial +(<i>Fritillaria imperialis</i>), <i>Gladiolus communis</i>, the<span class="pagenum">[Pg 3] </span> +Garden Hyacinth (<i>Hyacinthus orientalis</i>), the Madonna +Lily (<i>Lilium candidum</i>), the Poet's Narcissus and +the Jonquil (<i>N. poeticus</i> and <i>N. Jonquilla</i>), the Star +Hyacinth (<i>Scilla amoena</i>), the Lily of the Field +(<i>Sternbergia lutea</i>), and Gesner's Tulip (<i>T. Gesneriana</i>), +were among the first kinds cultivated from the beginning of the +16th century, and they are all more popular to-day than ever. +Following these we find such Tulips as <i>suaveolens</i> and <i>Clusiana</i>, +the yellow-flowered Onion (<i>Allium Moly</i>), the Cloth of Gold Crocus +(<i>C. Susianus</i>), the Byzantine Gladiolus (<i>G. byzantinus</i>), and others in the +17th century. The beginning of the 18th century saw the introduction +to our gardens of the Belladonna Lily (<i>Amaryllis Belladonna</i>), +and later on the Babianas, Ixias, and other Gladioli like <i>blandus</i>, +<i>cuspidatus</i>, and <i>cardinalis</i>.</p> + +<p>It is to the 19th century, however, that we owe +not only many introductions of new kinds, but also +the development of the great enterprise that has been +shown in their extensive cultivation, and the natural +methods of using them in the garden.</p> + +<p>To this period, and especially to the latter half of +it, belong most of our fine Lilies, Bulbous Irises, +Mariposa Lilies and Star Tulips, Brodiæas, +Chionodoxas, Scillas, and American Dog's Tooth +Violets. It has also been the age when the florist's<span class="pagenum">[Pg 4] </span> +varieties of Gladiolus, Daffodils, Tulips, Hyacinths, +and Crocuses have been brought almost, if not quite, +to the acme of perfection by intelligent cultivation and +careful selection.</p> + +<p>All this has led to the growth of many kinds of +bulbous plants having become a huge industry. Dutch +bulbs have for many generations been famous, and many +kinds will, no doubt, continue to retain their hold upon +the public owing to the undoubted advantage of the climate +under which they are grown. But experience has proved that +such bulbous plants as Tulips and Daffodils at least can +be grown equally well in some parts of the British Islands, +notably in Cambridgeshire, Lincolnshire, the Scilly Isles, and parts of +Ireland. It has been stated that over five hundred millions +of bulbs are used for decorative purposes in Great Britain +alone every year, and that the value of imported bulbs ranges +from £5,000,000 to £8,000,000 annually.</p> + +<p>The growth of Daffodils and Narcissi alone in the +<a name="Scilly_Isle" id="Scilly_Isle"></a><a href="#INDEX">Scilly Isles</a> within the past forty years has been +nothing less than phenomenal. Mr. T. A. Dorrien-Smith, +of Tresco Abbey, has stated that the first lot +of flowers was sent to Covent Garden Market about +1865, and realised £1. It was not, however, until +about 1880 that Daffodil growing in these Islands<span class="pagenum">[Pg 5] </span> +became at all remunerative, and some idea of their +growth since then may be gained from the fact +(vouched for by the same authority) that 65 tons of +flowers were exported from the Scilly Isles in 1885, +85 tons in 1886, 100 tons in 1887, 188 tons in 1888, +and 198 tons in 1889; and on one day alone—the +25th February, 1896—30-½ tons of Narcissi, comprising +3,258,000 blooms in 4,849 boxes, were shipped to +Penzance for market. Cultivation on such an extensive +scale, of course, means a considerable reduction +in price, and, from a commercial point of view, ordinary +Daffodil growing may be said to have reached bedrock +prices a long time ago.</p> + +<p>However, of late years, our American cousins have +taken a keen interest in the importation of bulbs from +Europe, and as gardening is a comparatively new +industry in that extensive country, we may expect +that it will afford a good market for many years to +come. Not many years ago certain kinds of Tulips, +Daffodils, Hyacinths, &c., were a drug in the English +markets, and could be had at a very low price. Since, +however, the Americans have become fond of bulb-growing, +these particular kinds have advanced considerably +in price, in some cases 100 to 150 per cent., +because it so happened they were just the sorts that +were liked on the other side of the Atlantic.</p><br> + + + +<br> +<h2><a name="GEOGRAPHICAL_DISTRIBUTION" id="GEOGRAPHICAL_DISTRIBUTION"></a>GEOGRAPHICAL DISTRIBUTION.</h2><p><span class="pagenum">[Pg 6] </span></p> + + +<p>It is curious to note in this respect that almost +every part of the temperate and sub-tropical regions +of the globe have contributed some class of bulbous +plants now to be found in cultivation. Central and +Southern Europe and Northern Africa have supplied +us with various Daffodils and Narcissi, Tulips, &c. +From Asia Minor and Turkestan, the Chionodoxas, +and many bulbous Irises and Fritillarias have been +introduced. California and other parts of North +America have produced the Mariposa Lilies, all +the Dog's Tooth Violets, except the common British +one, the Brodiæas, &c.; while South Africa has +given us the Gladiolus, Montbretias, and Tritonias, +Crocosma, and other beautiful plants. And the +Lilies, which form a large group in themselves, +are to be found in almost every temperate clime +north of the equator (see <a href="#Page_95">page 95</a>).</p> + +<p>When these facts are borne in mind, the reader +will readily understand the necessity of trying to +imitate, as far as possible, in our own climate the +various natural conditions under which these plants +are found.</p> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<a name="PLATE_2" id="PLATE_2"></a><p class="ccaption">PLATE 2.</p> +<img src="images/plate-2.jpg" width="350" height="515" alt="SCILLA SIBIRICA MULTIFLORA (7) GALANTHUS NIVALIS (8) +CHIONODOXA LUCILIÆ (9) HYACINTHUS AZUREUS (10)" title="SCILLA SIBIRICA MULTIFLORA (7) GALANTHUS NIVALIS (8) +CHIONODOXA LUCILIÆ (9) HYACINTHUS AZUREUS (10)"> +<span class="caption">SCILLA SIBIRICA MULTIFLORA (7) GALANTHUS NIVALIS (8) +CHIONODOXA LUCILIÆ (9) HYACINTHUS AZUREUS (10)</span> +</div><br> + + +<br> +<H2><a name="SOMETHING_ABOUT_BULBS_AND_CORMS" id="SOMETHING_ABOUT_BULBS_AND_CORMS"></a><a href="#INDEX">SOMETHING ABOUT BULBS AND CORMS.</a></h2><p><span class="pagenum">[Pg 7] </span></p> + +<P>There is so much confusion of thought as to what +a "bulbous" plant really is, that it may be as well +at the beginning of this volume to endeavour to +clear up the haziness that exists in regard to the +matter. It seems to be taken for granted that any +plant with a swollen or thickened stem or rootstock is +a "bulbous" one. And this impression is no doubt +confirmed when one consults the bulb catalogues +issued by nurserymen. In these publications—chiefly, +no doubt, for the sake of convenience and to avoid +unnecessary extra expense in printing—a large number +of plants are enumerated as if they were really bulbous. +It is, therefore, not at all unnatural that the amateur +should come to the conclusion that everything mentioned +between the covers of a bulb catalogue should +be truly bulbous in nature. Even some publications +on bulbous plants have adopted the same loose +nomenclature. Thus we find such non-bulbous plants +as Aconites, Anemones, Dahlias, Dicentras, Day-Lilies, +Hepaticas, Solomon's Seal, Astilbe japonica, Tropæolums, +Lily of the Valley, Corydalis, Torch Lilies, Pæonies,<span class="pagenum">[Pg 8] </span> +Christmas Roses, and many others described as "bulbous" +plants, while some that are really so, and worthy of +cultivation, are not even mentioned.</p> + +<p>Some of the plants referred to above have thickened +stems or roots, and will be found described in their +proper places in the companion volume to this—"<span class="smcap">Beautiful +Garden Flowers</span>." They belong to several +different families of plants. True bulbous plants, +however (with which we may include those having +"corms"), are confined to very few families. Indeed, +they are restricted to one of the two large groups of +flowering plants, viz., that in which the leaves usually +have parallel veins, and the flowers have their parts +in circles of three or six. This group of plants is +known to botanists as "monocotyledons," and is still +further distinguished by having only <i>one</i> seed-leaf, as +may be seen when the seeds of any of them sprout, +as shown in the Tulip, <a href="#Page_35">p. 35</a>.</p> + +<p>It is within the limits of this definition, therefore, +that all the plants described in this book come. They +all have parallel-veined leaves, and the parts of their +flowers are in "threes" or "sixes," as may be seen +by consulting the coloured plates.</p> + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<a name="PLATE_3" id="PLATE_3"></a><p class="ccaption">PLATE 3.</p> +<img src="images/plate-3.jpg" width="350" height="526" alt="BULBOUS IRISES I. HISTRIO, (11) I. BAKERIANA, (12). +I. KOLPAKOWSKYANA, (13) I. DANFORDIÆ, (14) I.PERSICA (15)" title="BULBOUS IRISES I. HISTRIO, (11) I. BAKERIANA, (12). +I. KOLPAKOWSKYANA, (13) I. DANFORDIÆ, (14) I.PERSICA (15)"> +<span class="caption">BULBOUS IRISES I. HISTRIO, (11) I. BAKERIANA, (12). +I. KOLPAKOWSKYANA, (13) I. DANFORDIÆ, (14) I.PERSICA (15)</span> +</div><br> + +<p>There is an apparent contradiction to this rule in +the Daffodils (Narcissi) in which the "trumpet" or +"corona" in the centre makes a seventh organ. A<span class="pagenum">[Pg 9] </span> +similar growth may be seen in such bulbous plants as +the Eucharis, Hymenocallis, Pancratium, &c., that are +usually grown under glass. This corona is analogous +to the ligules or scale-like outgrowths so noticeable on +the petals of the Campions (Lychnis), the chief +difference being that in the Narcissi the ligules are +joined together, become much larger, and often constitute +the most attractive feature of the flowers.</p><br> + +<p><b>Definition of a "Bulb."</b>—Perhaps the very best-known +example of a true bulb is the common or +garden Onion. Another example is shown in the +sketch of a Hyacinth and Tigridia.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/i027.jpg" width="450" height="260" alt="Tunicated Bulb of Hyacinth +in section showing "Disc," and +Scale Leaves s. l." title=""> +</div> + +<table class=narrowcaption summary=""><tr><td>Tunicated Bulb of Hyacinth +in section showing "Disc," and +Scale Leaves s. l.</td><td> </td><td>Tigridia Bulb, +Showing thick Contractile Roots. +</td></tr></table> + +<p>The bulbs of Daffodils, Tulips, Snowdrops, Scillas, +&c., all conform very closely to the Onion in structure. +It will be noticed that at the base of the +Hyacinth, for example, is a flattish or deltoid mass of +tissue. This is called the "disc" and is really the +stem portion of the bulb. On the upper surface it +bears a number of thick scaly leaves packed very +close together, and rolled round each other, with the +flower-spike in the centre; while from the under +surface, the roots emanate when growth takes place. +It may be easily imagined by the reader that if the +"disc" were drawn out lengthwise, and if a space +separated one scale-leaf from another, that the bulb +would be very similar in appearance to an ordinary<span class="pagenum">[Pg 10] </span> +leafy stem. Nature, however, has a certain object in +view in modifying the stems and leaves in such a +manner that they are tightly packed away when at +rest, within a brown protecting coat, so that they +resemble the large scale-protected flower-buds that +may be seen in winter on Horse-chestnuts, Lilacs, +Ash, &c. The thick scale-leaves are really storehouses +in which food has been stored up by the larger +and broader green leaves that perform the functions +of assimilation, respiration, &c., above the +ground during the growing period.</p> + +<p>When the bulb begins to grow, the food in the +thick scale-leaves is drawn up to supply nourishmentx +to the flower-stem, until the new green leaves can<span class="pagenum">[Pg 11] </span> +manufacture or elaborate a fresh supply in the sunlight +from the raw materials drafted into them from +the soil by the roots. Under favourable circumstances +more food is elaborated than is necessary for the +wants of the plant, and then extra growths or young +bulbs called "offsets" are developed at the base, or +rather the side, of the older bulb.</p> + +<p>It should be mentioned here, however, that all +bulbs do not vegetate in the same way. In many +cases the original bulb persists for several seasons, as +in the Daffodil and Hyacinth, for example; but in +others it vanishes completely during the period of +growth, and is absorbed, or swallowed up, as it were, +by the flower stem. The most common example of +this among bulbs is the Tulip, to which more detailed +reference has been made at <a href="#Page_133">p. 133</a>.</p><br> + +<p><b>Kinds of Bulbs.</b>—Most true bulbs are constructed +like the Onion, Daffodil, Snowdrop, or Hyacinth, in +having the scale-leaves rolled round each other, forming +different layers or coats. Such bulbs are said to +be "tunicated." In the case of the Liliums, however, +the scale-leaves only lap over each other at the edges, +and are arranged spirally round the central axis. +These bulbs are called "scaly," or "imbricated," and +are shown in the annexed sketch on <a href="#Page_12">p. 12</a>.</p> + +<p>The individual scales are much thicker at the base<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a> </span> +than at the apex, and in the case of tunicated bulbs, +they are also thicker on one side than the other. By +this arrangement, the various "coats" can be rolled +round each other more tightly, and without wasting +any space.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"> +<img src="images/i029.jpg" width="200" height="261" alt="Scaly Bulb of Lily." title="Scaly Bulb of Lily." > +<span class="caption">Scaly Bulb of Lily.</span> +</div><br> + +<p><a name="Definition_of_a_Corm" id="Definition_of_a_Corm"></a><b><a href="#INDEX">Definition of a "Corm.</a>"</b>—In outward appearance, +many corms are so much like bulbs, that the two +terms are interchangeable and loosely applied, at +least, among gardeners. By cutting a "corm" through +the centre lengthwise, a great difference, however, +will be noticed in the structure. In the bulb, the +"disc" is small and unimportant, while the scale-leaves +upon it are the most conspicuous feature. In +the "corm," on the other hand, the "disc" is the +all-important feature, and is devoid of any thick scale-leaves<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a> </span> +upon it. The new growths appear on the top +or sides, and the lines round the circumference show +where the sheathing papery scale-leaves were +attached. In the "corm" then, it is the disc, and +not the scale-leaves, that is the great storehouse +of food.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<a name="PLATE_4" id="PLATE_4"></a><p class="ccaption">PLATE 4.</p> +<img src="images/plate-4.jpg" width="350" height="526" alt="DAFFODILS ELLEN WILLMOTT, +17. MDME. DE GRAAFF, 18. HORSFIELDI)DAFFODILS ELLEN WILLMOTT, +17. MDME. DE GRAAFF, 18. HORSFIELDI)" title="DAFFODILS ELLEN WILLMOTT, +17. MDME. DE GRAAFF, 18. HORSFIELDI)"> +<span class="caption">DAFFODILS ELLEN WILLMOTT, +17. MDME. DE GRAAFF, 18. HORSFIELDI)DAFFODILS ELLEN WILLMOTT, +17. MDME. DE GRAAFF, 18. HORSFIELDI)</span> +</div> +<br> +<p><b>Growth of a Corm.</b>—The vegetation of the corm is +very remarkable, and somewhat resembles that of the +Tulip. When a corm commences to grow, the reserve +material within it is used up for the benefit of the +flowers and leaves. The result of this absorbing +process is that by the end of the season the old corm +has almost vanished, or is reduced to a dry shrivelled, +woody, and lifeless mass, incapable of further growth, +and attached to the base of the new corms, as +shown in the annexed sketches of Gladiolus and +Crocus on <a href="#Page_14">page 14</a>.</p> + +<p>These new corms are the direct result of the +work that has been done by the green leaves in the +daylight, and after a period of rest, they go through +precisely the same process the following season—vanishing +themselves, but leaving others behind to +carry on the work of producing flowers, and, if +possible, seeds.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 450px;"> +<img src="images/i033.jpg" width="450" height="311" alt="Gladiolus. +o. c. old corm; c. r. contractile roots; +n. c. new corms with "spawn" (s.) at base." title=""></div> + +<table class=narrowcaption summary=""><tr><td>Gladiolus. +o. c. old corm; c. r. contractile +roots; n. c. new corms with +"spawn" (s.) at base.</td><td> </td><td>Crocus Corm. +<i>o. c.</i> old corm; <i>n. c.</i> + new corm with growths.</td></tr></table><br> + + +<p><b>The <a name="importance_of_Green_Leaves" id="importance_of_Green_Leaves"></a><a href="#INDEX">importance of Green Leaves</a> +to Bulbs and Corms.</b><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a> </span> +—If the reader wishes to be successful in growing +bulbous plants in his garden he must have very great +respect for the green leaves of his plants, and always +endeavour to keep them in the cleanest and healthiest +possible condition. From what has just been said +about the production of new bulbs in the Tulip, and +new corms in the Crocus and Gladiolus, it is obvious +that the leaves play a most important part. Indeed, +without their aid there would be neither bulbs nor +corms to carry on the work of the plants from year +to year. In the form of carbon-dioxide the leaves eat +up the carbon and oxygen from the atmosphere.<span class="pagenum">[Pg 15] </span> +Under the influence of sunlight the gas is decomposed, +so that the oxygen is given off again into the +air, while the carbon is retained for the production of +starch and other materials. These are elaborated in +the cells of the leaves, and after undergoing certain +changes pass down the stems and are stored up in the +bulbs or corms beneath the surface of the soil. It is +only <i>green</i> healthy leaves that can perform this +important work satisfactorily. When the foliage +therefore begins to turn yellow and wither, it may be +taken for granted that its work for the season is +coming to a close, and the bulbs or corms are going +to enjoy a well-earned rest. It should, perhaps, be +mentioned also that leaves can only become green in +day light; and although some bulbous plants like +a certain amount of shade, it would never do to +exclude the light from them altogether, or even +to plant them in places where they could not get +an adequate amount of sunshine, or diffused light, +during the day.</p><br> + +<br> +<h2><a name="SOIL_FOR_BULBOUS_PLANTS" id="SOIL_FOR_BULBOUS_PLANTS"></a><a href="#INDEX">SOIL FOR BULBOUS PLANTS.</a></h2><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a> </span></p> + +<p>Comparatively few of the bulbous plants mentioned +in this volume will require anything better +than ordinary good garden soil that has been deeply +dug, contains a certain amount of well-decomposed +manure, and is well-drained so that the water freely +passes away. Such a soil will give general satisfaction, +with the least amount of trouble, especially if it +is inclined to be light rather than heavy.</p> + +<p>To secure really first-class results, however, the +soil in beds or borders that are to be planted with +bulbs should be particularly well-prepared in advance. +A heavy soil, that is, one inclined to hold water, and +of a clayey nature, will require a good deal more +labour to bring it into a proper condition than a soil +that is already friable and in a fair state of tilth. +The heavy soil should be not only deeply dug to a +depth of two feet or more, taking care not to bring the +lower layers to the surface in the operation, although +they should be turned over and pulverised as much as +possible where they are. Plenty of sand or road-grit +should be incorporated with a heavy soil, not only to +keep it "open," but also to increase its warmth—a +matter of some importance in our cold wet winters. +The upper layer of soil, say a foot from the surface,<span class="pagenum">[Pg 17] </span> +may be still further improved by the admixture of old +cow-manure and soot. In very bad soils, powdered +quicklime may also be added, not only to absorb +superfluous moisture, but to render the soil sweeter +and more fertile. On no account, however, should +fresh, rank manure be dug into the soil just before +the bulbs are planted, as the heat and gases generated +by its decomposition are often injurious to the +extremely tender tips of the young roots.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<a name="PLATE_5" id="PLATE_5"></a><p class="ccaption">PLATE 5.</p> +<img src="images/plate-5.jpg" width="350" height="520" alt="(DAFFODILS 19. CYCLAMINEUS, 20. TRIANDRUS ALBUS, +21. PRINCESS MARY OF CAMBRIDGE, 22. GLORIA MUNDI, +23. SIR WATKIN)"> +<span class="caption">(DAFFODILS 19. CYCLAMINEUS, 20. TRIANDRUS ALBUS, +21. PRINCESS MARY OF CAMBRIDGE, 22. GLORIA MUNDI, +23. SIR WATKIN)</span> +</div> + +<p>An ordinary good garden soil—that is, one that is +regularly dug, hoed, manured, and cropped with some +class of plants—will only need to be well dug for +bulbs, and to have some well-decayed manure and +soot incorporated with it a week or two before +planting. For some bulbs, such as the Mariposa +Lilies (Calochorti), some of the bulbous Irises, and a +few other kinds, it may be necessary to take particular +pains with the preparation of the soil for +them. Attention has been specially called to +plants of this nature, where such has been considered +necessary. It should be remembered that when +bulbous plants are attacked by fungoid diseases, +referred to at <a href="#Page_145">p. 145</a>, it is very often the result of a +badly prepared soil, and not to any inherent defect +in the bulbs.</p><br> + + + +<br> +<h2><a name="HINTS_TO_BEGINNERS" id="HINTS_TO_BEGINNERS"></a><a href="#INDEX">HINTS TO BEGINNERS.</a></h2><p><span class="pagenum">[Pg 18] </span> + +<p>There is a beginning to everything, and the +cultivation of bulbous plants is no exception to +the rule. It is probable in many cases that the +beginner at bulb-growing falls into precisely the same +errors as the beginner with other classes of plants. +The most common error of all, perhaps, is that he +wants to grow at once every bulbous plant known. +He sees a book, like the present one for example, and +admires the beautiful pictures of bulbous plants in it. +The result may be—and I hope it will be—a keen desire +to invest in the bulbs that can produce such charming +blossoms. But this keen desire should be tempered +with discretion. His garden may be only a small one, +and perhaps already stocked with many other plants. +As he cannot hope to get the whole of Kew Gardens +into it at once, it would be as well to start with only +a few <i>kinds</i> of bulbs. I do not mean of a <i>few bulbs</i> of +<i>many</i> kinds, as he is almost sure to be disappointed +in the results. In these days of imperial thought it +is no use thinking of producing an effect in a garden +with six bulbs of either Snowdrops, Crocuses, Tulips, +or Daffodils. It is as well to think of the larger +bulbs like the Lilies and choice Hyacinths in <i>dozens</i>;<span class="pagenum">[Pg 19] </span> +of the medium sized ones like Tulips, Daffodils, +Tritonias, and bedding Hyacinths in <i>hundreds</i>; and +of the smaller ones like Crocuses, Snowdrops, Spanish +Irises, Scillas, Chionodoxas, and Bluebells in <i>thousands</i>. +The dearer and choicer kinds are better left alone, +perhaps, until some advance has been made with the +others.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="Buying_Bulbs" id="Buying_Bulbs"></a><a href="#INDEX">Buying Bulbs.</a></b>—To buy bulbous plants in dozens, +hundreds, or thousands of course means money. The +beginner, however, is not advised to buy large quantities +of <i>all</i> the kinds mentioned to begin with, as the +cost might be prohibitive, or the convenience for their +proper treatment inadequate. What is strongly recommended, +however, is to start with a large number +of any one, two, or three kinds as can be afforded +one year, instead of frittering away the same amount +of money over a few bulbs each of perhaps a dozen +different kinds which will fail to produce the anticipated +effect later on. It is much better, for instance, +to buy, say 100 bulbs of cottage or Mayflowering +Tulips, than to invest in 100 bulbs belonging to eight +different genera.</p> + +<p>The 100 Tulips would make a fine show in the +garden, because there would probably be enough of +them; whereas the other bulbs, although quite as<span class="pagenum">[Pg 20] </span> +handsome in their own way would be lost, or at least +inconspicuous, owing to the small number of each in +flower at the same time.</p> + +<p>If only one or two kinds of bulbs can be bought +in sufficient quantity each season, with care they can +be increased each year afterwards, and need not be +purchased again. This will permit of the purchase +of a sufficient number of one or two other kinds the +following year, and as these will increase and multiply +in the same way, there will be quite a large number +of excellent bulbs available at the end of a few years. +Each season there is a larger and better display than +the preceding one, and that is a result very rarely +attained, even after several years' labour, and a lot +of money has been spent, when the principle of +having only a <i>few</i> bulbs of <i>many</i> kinds is adopted.</p> + +<p>If the effect is not produced the first season, +enthusiasm is likely to be killed, or the interest +in bulb-growing may be seriously diminished.</p> + +<p>The beginner is strongly advised to start with +such easily-grown and effective bulbs as Tulips, Daffodils, +and Spanish Irises, afterwards adding Montbretias +or Tritonias, Gladiolus, Liliums, Chionodoxas, +Scillas, Snowdrops, Grape Hyacinths, Crocuses, &c., +according to fancy. Of course all these may be +started with, but as stated before, each kind should be +purchased in sufficient quantity to make a bold and<span class="pagenum">[Pg 21] </span> +effective display when in blossom.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_6" id="PLATE_6"></a>PLATE 6.</p> +<img src="images/plate-6.jpg" width="350" height="519" alt="DAFFODILS (24. GRAND MONARQUE, +25. SOLEIL D'OR, 26. WEARDALE PERFECTION, 27. LULWORTH)" title="DAFFODILS (24. GRAND MONARQUE, +25. SOLEIL D'OR, 26. WEARDALE PERFECTION, 27. LULWORTH)" > +<span class="caption">DAFFODILS (24. GRAND MONARQUE, +25. SOLEIL D'OR, 26. WEARDALE PERFECTION, 27. LULWORTH)</span> +</div><br> + +<p><b>A Word of Warning.</b>—Beginners must not run +away with the idea that the largest bulbs give the +most blossom. In many instances this is very far +from being the case—notably with the florists' +Hyacinth—which is a most deceptive bulb. Small +heavy bulbs are much better than large light ones—that +is light or heavy according to their size. In +Daffodils, too, there is a good deal of variety in the +shape and size of different varieties, some being +naturally smaller than others, and yet capable of +throwing fine blossoms. All healthy bulbs, no matter +to what genus they belong, should be firm and solid, +and not soft and pappy to the touch. A distinction +must also be made between well-ripened "flowering +bulbs," and those often advertised as "planting +bulbs." The latter are perfectly sound, but being +merely offsets from the "flowering" bulbs, are not +likely to flower the first year after planting, although +a few of the stronger ones may do so. When +one can afford to await a couple of years, "planting" +bulbs offer a cheap means of stocking a garden, +as a thousand can be purchased for a few +shillings.</p> + +<p>The other hints, necessary for a beginner, will be +found in the following pages attached to the different<span class="pagenum">[Pg 22] </span> +groups of bulbs or corms he may wish to grow.</p><br> + + + +<br> +<h2><a name="HOW_DEEP_SHOULD_BULBS_BE_PLANTED" id="HOW_DEEP_SHOULD_BULBS_BE_PLANTED"></a><a href="#INDEX">HOW DEEP SHOULD BULBS BE PLANTED?</a></h2> + +<p>This question has been agitating the minds of +gardeners for some considerable time, and has given +rise to a certain amount of discussion. Some advocate +very deep planting, on the strength of having +discovered the bulbs of such plants as Snowdrops, +&c., a foot or more beneath the surface of the soil +without any decrease in vigour. On the contrary, it +has been contended that the plants have shown +unusual sturdiness, notwithstanding the amount of +reserve material the bulbs must have expended before +the leaves were able to reach the light. It is natural +that bulbs that are left in beds and borders for a few +years without lifting should be found at a greater +depth than is generally recommended for the planting +of new bulbs. In the course of time the soil is turned +up more or less deeply, and any bulbs in it are +almost sure to be buried deeper than they were +before; or frequent top dressings of soil or manure +may have been given, and thus place the bulbs still +further from the light. It is possible, however, that +bulbs get buried deeply owing to the downward pull<span class="pagenum">[Pg 23] </span> +of their own contractile roots referred to below.</p> + +<p>Although I am not going to recommend very deep +planting, there is one great advantage in having bulbs +in the open air well covered with soil, viz., that the +temperature of the soil at one, two, or three feet is +often as much as 20 degrees higher than it is immediately +on the surface during very cold and frosty +weather. This is a wonderful provision of Nature +for the protection of all kinds of roots and bulbs +beneath the soil in winter.</p> + +<p>In the following pages the average size of the bulbs +or corms of different genera is given. It will be +noticed that they vary from half an inch in diameter +in some of the smaller Narcissi, to three, four, or five +inches in some of the Liliums. Between these two +extremes there are nearly all shapes and sizes, and it +is not unnatural that the amateur should be somewhat +puzzled as to the depth he ought to plant any particular +bulb.</p> + +<p>For planting bulbs in the open air, I venture to +propound a safe general rule, viz.:—<i>cover a bulb or +corm with about twice its own depth of soil</i>. Thus a +bulb one inch through from top to bottom would be +planted about three inches deep, so that it would be +covered with two inches of soil. The adoption of +this principle means fairly deep planting in the case<span class="pagenum">[Pg 24] </span> +of large bulbs. There are a few exceptions, however, +to this rule, but they have been noted in the proper +place.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 71px;"> +<img src="images/i047-dibber.png" width="71" height="143" alt="Dibber." title="" > +<span class="caption">Dibber.</span> +</div> + +<p>The actual planting of bulbs in formal beds may +be done with either a garden trowel or dibber. The +trowel is better for the larger bulbs like Liliums, and +may of course be used for smaller bulbs if found to be +more convenient. The dibber is useful for making +holes at very regular distances apart in the lines, and +into each hole a bulb may be dropped in, afterwards +covering it over with soil.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;"> +<img src="images/i047-wrong-right.png" width="300" height="199" alt="Wrong and Right +way of planting Bulbs with Dibber." title="Wrong and Right +way of planting Bulbs with Dibber." ></div> +<pre class="ccaption">Wrong and Right +way of planting Bulbs with Dibber.</pre> + +<p>A blunt dibber as shown in the sketch, will be<span class="pagenum">[Pg 25] </span> +found more useful than a pointed one for the work, +although it may not be pushed into the soil so readily. +The danger of a sharp-pointed dibber is shown in the +sketch. A fairly large bulb is liable to be hung up +in the hole as its diameter is greater than that of the +dibber at a certain depth. Under these circumstances +roots would not be emitted so readily from the base, +as when the bulb is resting flat on the bottom of the +hole as shown in the sketch to the right.</p> + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_7" id="PLATE_7"></a>PLATE 7.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-7.jpg" width="350" height="526" alt="GARDENIA NARCISSUS (28) POET'S NARCISSUS (29) +HYACINTHUS AMETHYSTINUS (30)" title="GARDENIA NARCISSUS (28) POET'S NARCISSUS (29) +HYACINTHUS AMETHYSTINUS (30)" > +<span class="caption">GARDENIA NARCISSUS (28) POET'S NARCISSUS (29) +HYACINTHUS AMETHYSTINUS (30)</span> +</div><br> + + + + +<br> +<h2><a name="THE_NATURAL_SINKING_OF_BULBS_AND_CORMS" id="THE_NATURAL_SINKING_OF_BULBS_AND_CORMS"></a><a href="#INDEX">THE NATURAL SINKING OF BULBS AND CORMS.</a></h2> + +<p>In connection with the question of planting, +attention may be directed to a very interesting and +remarkable power possessed by the roots of many +bulbs and corms. A glance at the sketches of +Gladiolus, Tritonia, Nothoscordum, and Lilium, will +show the reader some thick fleshy roots with conspicuous +rings on them. They are readily distinguished +from the finer fibrous roots, and, as may be +readily supposed, their functions are quite distinct. +To thoroughly understand what these thick-ringed +roots are for, the reader will remember what has been +said at <a href="#Page_13">page 13</a> about the way in which the old +corms of Crocuses and Gladioli disappear, or are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a> </span> +surmounted in autumn by new ones. If the plants +were not disturbed for several years, one would +imagine that as the new corms were always produced +<i>on top</i> of the old ones, they would sooner or later +come through the surface of the soil, and thus run the +risk of being either parched by drought, or shrivelled +up by the heat of the summer sun; or, again, of being +frozen to death in winter. And yet, examination of +the corms will show that the new ones are quite as +deep down in the soil, if not deeper, than their predecessors. +This remarkable state of affairs to preserve +what may be called the <i>status quo</i> is entirely +due to the action of the thick, ringed roots referred to +above. These roots usually strike straight down into<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a> </span> +the soil. When they have gone as far as Nature +intended them to, they begin to contract much in the +same way apparently as a worm does when going into +its burrow, and for this reason they have been called +"<a href="#INDEX">contractile</a>."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width:401px;"> +<img src="images/i051.jpg" width="401" height="242" alt="" title="" > +</div> + +<table class=narrowcaption summary=""><tr><td class="center">Nothoscordum Bulb. +Showing Contractile Roots.</td><td class="center">Tritonia Corms. +</td></tr></table> + + +<p>During the process of contraction a tremendous +force must be exerted to enable the roots to pull the +corms or bulbs down to their proper level in the soil. +The passive resistance of the latter is overcome, and +as a result its particles are pressed much closer +together than they were before.</p> + +<p>Sometimes this pulling power of the roots is +exerted horizontally instead of vertically, and this +accounts for the spreading of many bulbous plants +like Tulips, Grape Hyacinths, &c., over a large area +in the course of a few years when left undisturbed.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="Bulbous_Plants_without_Contractile_Roots" id="Bulbous_Plants_without_Contractile_Roots"></a>Bulbous Plants without Contractile Roots.</b>—Some +bulbous plants have not the advantage of contractile +roots to keep them down in the soil, so they must +secure this desirable end by different means.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 401px;"> +<img src="images/i053-1-2.jpg" width="401" height="203" alt="Colchicum. +o. c. old corm; n. c. +new growth; o. r. +old roots." title=""></div> + +<table class=caption summary=""><tr><td>Colchicum. +o. c. old corm; n. c. +new growth; o. r. +old roots.</td><td> </td><td>Bulbocodium. +<i>o. c.</i> old corm; <i>n. c.</i> +new growth; <i>o. r.</i> old roots. +</td></tr></table> + +<p>A glance at the sketches of Colchicum and Bulbocodium +will show a peculiar method of growth. +The new corm instead of being produced on top of +the old one, is developed at the side. Note, however, +that the new corm is not on the same level as the old +one. That would be no advantage whatever. Therefore<span class="pagenum">[Pg 28] </span> +it takes, as it were, a step <i>downwards</i>, so as to be +well out of reach of mowing machines, rats, and mice, +and other enemies, and also probably because it knows +it will be much warmer in winter when several inches +below the surface. The same principle seems to be +employed by the bulbs of the Dog's Tooth Violets +(<i>Erythronium</i>), as may be seen from the sketch—the +new bulb to the right being distinctly lower than the +older one to the left.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 101px;"> +<img src="images/i053-3.jpg" width="101" height="191" alt="Erythronium." title=""> +<span class="caption">Erythronium.</span> +</div> +<br> +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_8" id="PLATE_8"></a>PLATE 8.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-8.jpg" width="350" height="516" alt="FRITILLARIAS (31. MOGGRIDGEI, 32. WALUJEWI, 33. +MELEAGRIS ALBA, 34. RECURVA)] +" title="FRITILLARIAS (31. MOGGRIDGEI, 32. WALUJEWI, 33. +MELEAGRIS ALBA, 34. RECURVA)] +" > +<span class="caption">FRITILLARIAS (31. MOGGRIDGEI, 32. WALUJEWI, 33. +MELEAGRIS ALBA, 34. RECURVA)] +</span> +</div><br> + + + +<br> +<h2><a name="PROPAGATION_OF_BULBOUS_PLANTS" id="PROPAGATION_OF_BULBOUS_PLANTS"></a><a href="#INDEX">PROPAGATION OF BULBOUS PLANTS.</a></h2><p><span class="pagenum">[Pg 29] </span></p> + + +<p>Perhaps there is no one class of plants that have +so many ways of being easily increased as bulbous +plants proper. Some kinds, <i>e.g.</i>, Liliums, Alliums, +may be increased in four different ways—from offsets +and "spawn," scales, bulbils, and, last of all, seeds.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="Offsets" id="Offsets"></a><a href="#INDEX">Offsets.</a></b>—The great mass of bulbous and cormous +plants, however, are so readily multiplied by detaching +the offsets from the parent bulb or corm, that the +other methods are rarely employed except by trade +growers. Nearly all hardy bulbous plants produce +offsets freely. These offsets represent a superabundance +of nourishment that has been elaborated in the +leaves, and very often there are several smaller ones +attached to the base of the larger ones that have been +produced in precisely the same way.</p> + +<p>In the case of Daffodils, Tulips, Hyacinths, +Crocuses, Gladiolus, and a host of others, the new +offsets are pressed against the sides or on top of the +older ones. In the drawing of the Tulip (<a href="#Page_30">p. 30</a>), three +new bulbs are to be seen surrounding all that is left of +the old bulb. This latter has practically vanished up +the main axis from the disc to produce flowers and +leaves—hence it follows that the Tulip bulb somewhat +resembles the corm in its vegetative characters. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a> </span> +bulbs taken out of the soil in early summer are not +those that were planted the previous autumn.</p> + +<p>Besides "offsets," some plants produce numerous +small vegetative bodies called "<a name="cloves" id="cloves"></a><a href="#INDEX">cloves</a>" or "spawn." +These are shown in the drawing of the Gladiolus (<a href="#Page_14">p. 14</a>), +where two strong flowering corms have been developed +on top of the old shrivelled one. At the base of each of +these are numerous small outgrowths among the contractile +roots. If these growths or spawn are taken +off and stored in sandy soil until spring, they may +then be planted in special beds, and in the course of +two or three years will reach the flowering size.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;"> +<img src="images/i057-tulip.jpg" width="200" height="308" alt="Tulip. +d. disc of old bulb; f. s. flower and +leaf-stalk which have eaten up old bulb; n. b. +new bulb and offsets." title="" > +<span class="caption">Tulip. +d. disc of old bulb; f. s. flower and +leaf-stalk which have eaten up old bulb; n. b. +new bulb and offsets.</span> +</div> + +<p>The Liliums are a large and interesting group of +bulbous plants. Many of them produce offsets freely +round the base of the old bulb. There are several<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a> </span> +species, however (<i>e.g.</i>, <i>canadense</i>, <i>Grayi</i>, <i>maritimum</i>, +<i>pardalinum</i>, <i>Parryi</i>, <i>superbum</i>), which have creeping +rootstocks or rhizomes, and the new offsets are produced +along these at intervals as shown in the drawing.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="Division" id="Division"></a>Division.</b>—Bulbs or corms are rarely cut up for +purposes of propagation. The best example in which +this method of increase is practised is the Gladiolus. +The larger corms, if they show two or more crown-growths, +may be carefully cut down between them +with a sharp knife. The cut surfaces may be dipped +in soot, not only to dry it more rapidly, but also to +prevent any stray spores of fungoid diseases from +germinating.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 401px;"> +<img src="images/i058.jpg" width="401" height="159" alt="Rhizome (r) with Offsets." title="Rhizome (r) with Offsets." > +<span class="caption">Rhizome (r) with Offsets.</span> +</div><br> + +<p><b><a name="Leaf-Scales" id="Leaf-Scales"></a><a href="#INDEX">Leaf-Scales.</a></b>—The thick, fleshy, deltoid scales of +many of the Liliums will develop buds at the base, as +shown in the drawing, when detached and inserted +almost vertically in sandy soil. In about three or +four years flowering bulbs can be produced by this +means.</p> + +<p>A somewhat analogous process is adopted with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a> </span> +Hyacinths. The old bulb is slashed across the base +of the disc two or three times into the fleshy scales. +The cut surfaces dry up, and by-and-bye small buds +or bulblets, as shown on the sketch of the Lily scale, +make their appearance. In due course these bulblets +are detached and planted in light sandy soil. The +propagation of the florists' varieties of Hyacinths +by this means is not altogether satisfactory, as the +old bulbs themselves undergo a deterioration in our +variable climate.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 101px;"> +<img src="images/i059.jpg" width="101" height="173" alt="Scale leaf (s. l.) of Lily bulb showing new growth (n. b.) at base." title="" > +</div> +<p class="ccaption">Scale leaf (s. l.) of Lily bulb showing new growth (n. b.) at base.</p> + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_9" id="PLATE_9"></a>PLATE 9.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-9.jpg" width="350" height="518" alt="TULIPS (35-38)" title="TULIPS (35-38)" > +<span class="caption">TULIPS (35-38)</span> +</div><br> + +<p><b><a name="Bulbils" id="Bulbils"></a><a href="#INDEX">Bulbils.</a></b>—These are vegetative growths—neither +seeds, bulbs, nor offsets—that appear in the axils of the +aërial leaves, as shown in the sketch. Many Liliums, +like <i>bulbiferum</i>, <i>tigrinum</i>, <i>speciosum</i>, <i>Leichtlini</i>, and +some of the Alliums produce them with great +regularity. It is thought that bulbils are borne by +some plants and not others, because the conditions for<span class="pagenum">[Pg 33]</span> +the fertilisation or ripening of the seeds are not +favourable. In such cases, therefore, Nature has +provided such plants with this means of reproduction +by bulbils, rather than allow them to run the risk of +dying out altogether. In Kerner and Oliver's "Natural +History of Plants" it is stated that "There are two +forms of Orange Lily indigenous to Europe. One +(<i>Lilium croceum</i>), occurring especially in the Pyrenees +and South of France, almost always ripens fruits and +forms no bulbils in its leaf-axils. The other (<i>Lilium +bulbiferum</i>), found in the valleys of the Central and +Northern Alps, hardly ever fruits, but is characterised +by the bulbils it produces in the axils of its leaves; +bulbils which disarticulate in autumn and are scattered +by the wind. But there is no difference noticeable in +the structure of the flowers in these two Orange +Lilies, and it is difficult to explain their difference in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a> </span> +mode of propagation, save on the assumption that in +the regions where <i>Lilium bulbiferum</i> grows those insects +are wanting which should convey its pollen from +flower to flower. As the Orange Lily possesses no +arrangements for autogamy (<i>i.e</i>., self-fertilisation), no +fruits are formed in the absence of insect visits. It +appears that this plant has lost the capacity for +autogamy; at any rate, if a stigma be pollinated with +pollen from the same flower on plants in a garden, no +result follows. On the other hand, offshoots in the +form of numerous bulbils are produced by <i>Lilium +bulbiferum</i>, by means of which it is propagated and +dispersed. In several valleys of the Central Alps +it does not flower at all, and thus obviously depends +entirely upon its bulbils for propagation."</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 150px;"> +<img src="images/i062.jpg" width="150" height="251" alt="Bulbils in leaf-axils." title="Bulbils in leaf-axils." > +<span class="caption">Bulbils in leaf-axils.</span> +</div> + +<p>The bulbils should not be detached from the stems +until the latter are quite ripe, and the foliage shows +signs of withering. They may be sown as if they +were large seeds. They possess the advantage over +seeds, however, inasmuch as they produce flowering +bulbs two or three seasons before the bulbs from real +seeds come to maturity.</p> +<div class="figright" style="width: 71px;"> +<img src="images/i064.jpg" width="71" height="397" alt="Tulip +Seedling. +b. young bulb; +r. first root; +s. l. seed leaf; +s. c. seed-coat." title="Tulip +Seedling. +b. young bulb; +r. first root; +s. l. seed leaf; +s. c. seed-coat." > +<span class="caption">Tulip +Seedling. +b. young bulb; +r. first root; +s. l. seed leaf; +s. c. seed-coat.</span> +</div> +<p><b>Bulbous Plants from Seeds.</b>—The +would-be raiser of bulbous plants from seeds must be gifted with a +good deal of patience, and be systematic in his +methods, otherwise he will find it is no sinecure to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a> </span> +wait from five to ten years before a flower appears +from the seeds he sowed at the beginning of those +periods. Even when the blossoms do appear, the +great majority of them are likely to be inferior in +almost every way to their progenitors. The raising +of bulbous plants from seeds, therefore, is not likely +to find many enthusiastic disciples among amateur +growers, who, as a rule, are content to cultivate the +varieties that have been evolved by generations +of gardeners. Under these circumstances +it is most fortunate that bulbous plants can be +so readily multiplied by offsets. Of course, in +large gardens and nurseries, where there is +a trained staff of men, it is a comparatively +easy matter to save and sow a certain quantity +of seeds each year. After the first period +of waiting is over, each season sees a fresh +lot of seedlings burst into blossom. Any +particularly fine forms are marked, and afterwards +increased by means of the offsets or +bulbils.</p> + +<p>The annexed drawing shows a seedling +Tulip. The germination is very similar to +that of the common garden Onion. The +swollen portion at the base represents the +first stage in the development of the bulb, and each<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a> </span> +year for six or seven seasons sees it increase in size, +and ultimately large and strong enough to blossom.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="Sowing_Seeds" id="Sowing_Seeds"></a><a href="#INDEX">Sowing Seeds.</a></b>—The seeds of all the perfectly +hardy bulbous plants may be sown in the open air, in +beds specially prepared for the purpose. The soil +should be a light sandy loam with a good sprinkling +of leaf-mould in it. The "drills" may be drawn about +one inch deep, and as the seedlings in many cases are +left to look after themselves until they bloom, the +seeds should be sown very thinly—two or three inches +apart—so as to allow for future development. It +would scarcely be wise, in the case of choice or rare +varieties, to trust the seeds to the open air. They +may, however, be sown in pots or pans, and after two +or three seasons' growth they will be large enough for +transferring to the open air. The seeds of bulbous +plants may be sown in spring if they ripen late in the +year; or in early autumn if they ripen in summer.</p><br> + + + +<br> +<h2><a name="LIFTING_AND_STORING_BULBS" id="LIFTING_AND_STORING_BULBS"></a><a href="#INDEX">LIFTING AND STORING BULBS.</a></h2> + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_10" id="PLATE_10"></a>PLATE 10.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-10.jpg" width="350" height="522" alt="TULIPS (39-42)" title="TULIPS (39-42)" > +<span class="caption">TULIPS (39-42)</span> +</div> + + +<p>As all bulbous plants have a period of rest at some +season of the year, it is a matter of some little importance +whether the bulbs or corms in the soil shall be +taken up, or left in the ground from year to year. It<span class="pagenum">[Pg 37] </span> +will be noticed in many instances in the following +pages that certain kinds are recommended to be left +in the ground for three or four seasons without being +disturbed. This practice may be adopted with advantage +when bulbs are naturalised in the grass, the +rock-garden, by the sides of lakes, &c., and in thin +shrubberies or borders, where they are not likely to +be rooted up during the year.</p> + +<p>In the formal flower beds, however, in which +Tulips, Daffodils, Hyacinths, Crocuses, &c., are planted +for a display in spring and early summer, it is necessary +to lift them after flowering, not only to make way +for the summer "bedding" plants, but also to allow +of the beds being re-dug and re-arranged if necessary.</p> + +<p>The best time for lifting the bulbs is usually when +the leaves have commenced to turn yellow. Some do +this earlier than others, but in all cases, it is a sign +that growth has ceased, and that bulbs or corms in +the soil are ripe, and will be improved by a period of +rest.</p> + +<p><b>Storing.</b>—When lifted by means of a fork, the +bulbs may be spread out to dry, either in the sun, or +in some dry and airy shed. After a few days they +may be gone over and cleaned by hand, taking off the +old leaves, and putting the offsets or bulbils in +separate receptacles from the large and well-ripened<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a> </span> +bulbs that are to be used for next year's display. +The bulbs lifted in early summer (<i>e.g.</i>, Tulips, +Daffodils, Hyacinths, &c.) may be spread out in thin +layers—not heaps—upon shelves in a cool, airy shed, +where they can remain without injury until the time +of planting in autumn comes round.</p> + +<p>In the case of bulbs or corms that are lifted in +autumn when the leaves begin to fade, like the +Gladiolus, the same process of cleaning is gone through, +but care must be taken to keep them where the frost +will not touch them during the winter. It is a good +plan to store them in dry sand or earth in shallow +boxes, and place them in dry, airy cellars or sheds +until the spring.</p><br> + + +<br> + +<h2><a name="COMBINATIONS_OF_BULBOUS_AND_NON-BULBOUS_PLANTS" id="COMBINATIONS_OF_BULBOUS_AND_NON-BULBOUS_PLANTS"></a><a href="#INDEX">COMBINATIONS OF BULBOUS AND NON-BULBOUS PLANTS.</a></h2> + +<p>While bulbous plants alone, especially when used +in large quantities, make an effective display in the +garden, they can be made much more attractive by +the exercise of a little art and a pleasing combination +with other plants that come into blossom at the same +period.</p> + +<p>In the first place, true bulbous plants, like Tulips,<span class="pagenum">[Pg 39] </span> +Daffodils, and Bluebells for example, that flower at the +same time may be mixed together for planting in +grassy banks, or near the margins of lakes, &c., where +they are not likely to be disturbed for several years. +Similar combinations may be made with Snowdrops, +Chionodoxas, Scillas, Leucojums, Crocuses, &c., that +appear in the spring; and with Colchicums, autumn-flowering +Crocuses, and Sternbergias in the late +autumn.</p> + +<p>In the next place, the grace and beauty of bulbous +plants proper are enhanced by judiciously mixing them +with plants of a non-bulbous nature. Among these +latter may be noted the following as being particularly +useful:—Wallflowers, Forget-me-Nots, Polyanthuses, +Primroses, White Arabis (<i>A. albida</i>), and Yellow +Alyssum (<i>A. saxatile</i>), Violas and Pansies, the Winter +Aconite (<i>Eranthis hiemalis</i>, and <i>E. cilicica</i>), Silene, +Aubrietia. These are all useful for planting in the +autumn at the same time as the bulbs of Tulips, +Daffodils, Hyacinths, Crocuses, Snowdrops, Scillas, +Chionodoxas, &c. Where formal beds are necessary +the non-bulbous plants may be put in first, leaving +sufficient space between the plants for the insertion of +the bulbs afterwards.</p> + +<p>To secure effect and contrast, a little skill, or +rather knowledge, of the different plants used, is<span class="pagenum">[Pg 40] </span> +necessary. Haphazard and careless combinations are +not to be encouraged in the formal flower-beds. It +would be a mistake, for instance, to mix three or four +different kinds of bulbs (<i>e.g.</i>, Snowdrops, Tulips, +Daffodils, or Hyacinths) with Wallflowers, Forget-me-Nots, +or any of the other plants mentioned above. +The effect would be ludicrous, and give the beds a +higgledy-piggledy appearance. Nor would it be wise +to use one kind of plant in such a way that the other +would be smothered or practically concealed from +view. This could happen easily with combinations of +such plants as Wallflowers or Forget-me-Nots, and +such bulbs as Crocuses, Snowdrops, &c.</p> + +<p>The true idea of combination should be such that +one plant is really as prominent as the other when in +blossom—each one, in fact, lending and borrowing at +the same time some charm from the other. Colours +of course play an important part in this scheme, and +care should be exercised at the time of planting <i>not</i> +to combine Yellow Polyanthuses, Yellow Wallflowers, +or Yellow Violas, for instance, with Yellow Tulips or +Daffodils; and so on.</p> + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_11" id="PLATE_11"></a>PLATE 11.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-11.jpg" width="350" height="524" alt="HYACINTHS (43-46)" title="HYACINTHS (43-46)" > +<span class="caption">HYACINTHS (43-46)</span> +</div> + +<p>The following are a few suggested combinations +that will look well:—</p> + +<ol><li><b>Violas</b> (Blue), beneath White, Red, or Yellow<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a> </span> + Tulips or Daffodils.</li> +<li><b>Violas</b> (Yellow), beneath White or Scarlet Tulips or Hyacinths.</li> + +<li><b>Violas</b> (White), beneath Scarlet or Yellow Tulips or Daffodils.</li> + +<li><b>Wallflowers</b> (Red), with Yellow, White, or Orange Tulips or Daffodils.</li> + +<li><b>Wallflowers</b> (Yellow), with Scarlet, Pink, White, or Red Tulips.</li> + +<li><b>Forget-me-Nots</b> (Blue), with all Tulips, Red and White Hyacinths, and Daffodils.</li> + +<li><b>Aubrietia</b> (Purple), with Tulips or Daffodils.</li> + +<li><b>White Arabis</b>, with Tulips, Daffodils, or Hyacinths.</li> + +<li><b>Yellow Alyssum</b>, with red-flowered or white-flowered Tulips or Hyacinths.</li> + +<li><b>Silene</b> (Rose), with White or Yellow Tulips and Daffodils.</li> +</ol><br> + + + +<br> +<h2><a name="NATURALISING_BULBOUS_PLANTS_IN_THE_GRASS" id="NATURALISING_BULBOUS_PLANTS_IN_THE_GRASS"></a><a href="#INDEX">NATURALISING BULBOUS PLANTS IN THE GRASS.</a></h2> + +<p>Although it has only been recognised of late years, +owing chiefly to the teachings of Mr. Robinson, there +is no place so natural perhaps for the artistic display +of bulbous plants as in some piece of grass-land, +whether it be a meadow, a sloping bank, the margin<span class="pagenum">[Pg 42] </span> +of a piece of water, or even a lawn. Every lover of +bulbous plants, however, cannot gratify his individual +tastes as to where he would like his bulbs to blossom, +and he must perforce make the best of the piece of +ground—large or small as it may be—that happens to +be at his disposal. In large parks and gardens there +is no difficulty, or there ought to be none, in securing +suitable sites to show off the natural graces of the +various bulbous plants recommended for the purpose +in this volume. And even in small suburban gardens, +where one often sees a piece of grass lying bare and +cheerless in winter, a better use might be made of +bulbs. Ce n'est que le premier pas qui coûte. Once +the initial cost and labour of getting the bulbs beneath +the turf is over there is joy ever afterwards, and keen +anticipation in watching the spring and autumn +Crocuses, Sternbergias, Snowdrops, Snowflakes, the +smaller Fritillaries, the Chionodoxas, Scillas, and Bluebells, +Narcissi, Grape Hyacinths, and even Tulips, when +one is not in too great a hurry to get the mowing +done early in the year. One group or another of these +plants (to which may be added the tuberous winter +Aconite, with its glistening yellow blossoms) may be +grown in the smallest of gardens, and will brighten +them year after year without trouble or expense, until, +perhaps, they become so crowded, that lifting and<span class="pagenum">[Pg 43] </span> +re-planting becomes essential to prevent suffocation.</p><br> + + + +<br> +<h2><a name="BULBOUS_PLANTS_UNDER_TREES_AND_SHRUBS" id="BULBOUS_PLANTS_UNDER_TREES_AND_SHRUBS"></a><a href="#INDEX">BULBOUS PLANTS UNDER TREES AND SHRUBS.</a></h2> + +<p>Early flowering bulbs are capital for planting +beneath deciduous trees on lawns or in large parks and +gardens. The bulbs bloom at a period when the trees +are leafless, and therefore sufficient sunlight is able to +percolate through the bare branches for their benefit. +Such kinds as Snowdrops, Scillas, Chionodoxas, &c., +are excellent for this purpose, and may be left for +several seasons without disturbance, provided they get +a top-dressing of well-decayed manure during the +autumn. Before the trees expand their leaves, the +bulbous plants beneath have finished their work for +the season, so the absence of light during the summer +does not interfere with them in the least. On the +other hand, however, they enjoy the cool refreshing +shade of the tree foliage, which prevents them from +being shrivelled up.</p><br> + + + +<br> +<h2><a name="BULBOUS_PLANTS_FOR_CUT_FLOWERS" id="BULBOUS_PLANTS_FOR_CUT_FLOWERS"></a><a href="#INDEX">BULBOUS PLANTS FOR CUT FLOWERS.</a></h2> + +<p>There are comparatively few of the bulbous plants +mentioned in this volume that are not fit to be cut for +the adornment of bowls, vases, &c., in the dwelling<span class="pagenum">[Pg 44] </span> +house. Some kinds, of course, are much better suited +for the purpose than others, and it would be difficult +indeed to surpass the elegance of the Daffodils, +Tulips, Wood Hyacinths, and Bluebells in the spring +and early summer. Following these we have numerous +Liliums—white, yellow, orange, red, variously blotched +and speckled, and provided with long wiry stems that +are often a great advantage. The late summer and +autumn flowering kinds are best represented by the +Montbretias, Tritonias, Gladiolus, Brodiæas, and Sparaxis. +The dwarf-flowering bulbous plants, like +Snowdrops, Crocuses, Grape Hyacinths, Chionodoxas, +Colchicums, Sternbergias, Leucojums, &c., although +they look charming in bold masses in the garden, +scarcely afford much length of stalk to enable them to +be used with great effect in bowls, vases, &c., by +themselves. As a groundwork to taller-stemmed +blossoms, however, they are often found to come in +very useful.</p> + +<p>It is, perhaps, scarcely necessary to say that the +more simply and naturally flowers are "bunched" +the better they look in room decorations. Very often +indeed, it is difficult to improve on a bunch of flowers +picked at random in the garden and placed in bowls +of water as they are—with stems of various lengths,</p> + + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_12" id="PLATE_12"></a>PLATE 12.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-12.jpg" width="350" height="518" alt="LEUCOJUM VERNUM, (47) MUSCARI CONICUM (48), +ERYTHRONIUM JOHNSONI (49), TECOPHYLÆA CYANOCROCUS (50)." title="LEUCOJUM VERNUM, (47) MUSCARI CONICUM (48), +ERYTHRONIUM JOHNSONI (49), TECOPHYLÆA CYANOCROCUS (50)." > +<span class="caption">LEUCOJUM VERNUM, (47) +MUSCARI CONICUM (48), +ERYTHRONIUM JOHNSONI (49), +TECOPHYLÆA CYANOCROCUS (50).</span> +</div> + +<p>and the blossoms facing in different directions. That<span class="pagenum">[Pg 45] </span> +some people have extraordinary notions as to what a +"bunch" of flowers really means may be gathered +from an inspection of any ordinary local flower show in +the kingdom. At such exhibitions a "bunch" of +flowers is generally as large, flat, unwieldy, and squatty +as possible—the various kinds being jammed together +as if they were "sticks" of Asparagus done up for +market. Educated judges have been endeavouring +for some years to get an improvement in the method +of putting bunches of flowers together, but with very +little success up to the present. The same old order +of things prevaileth.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="When_to_pick_Flowers" id="When_to_pick_Flowers"></a><a href="#INDEX">When to pick Flowers.</a></b>—Of course, when people +want flowers they will pick them at any time—if +they happen to be in their own gardens, not +in other people's. It may be as well, however, to +remind the reader that if picked either early in the +morning—the earlier the better—or in the evening +after sunset, flowers last much longer in a cut state, +than if they are picked at any other period of the day. +Perhaps the very worst time to pick flowers is from +mid-day to 2 or 3 o'clock—especially in summer. The +heat takes a good deal of substance out of the +blossoms, and many get so "blown" that if cut at that +particular period of the day, the petals never recover, +but drop off in a few hours. Tulips are well-known<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a> </span> +examples of this. In the morning and evening, the +petals close up to a point—really to prevent the +pollen from getting drenched with dew or rain. But +when the sun shines, they open out, and lie well back +from the stamens so that insects may be lured to take +the pollen from one flower to another. In this state +the blossoms should not be cut or pulled as they will +last but a short time.</p> + +<p>The water in which flowers are stood should be +fresh and clean. If some time has elapsed before the +flowers are placed in it, about an inch or so of the +stems may be cut off with a sharp knife, so as to allow +a layer of fresh cells to come in contact with the +water. Some flowers last much longer than others in +a cut state, and the period may be prolonged a little +by putting a pinch of salt, or a little clean charcoal in +the water at the same time.</p><br> + + + +<br> +<h2><a name="BULBOUS_PLANTS_FOR_COLD_GREENHOUSES" id="BULBOUS_PLANTS_FOR_COLD_GREENHOUSES"></a><a href="#INDEX">BULBOUS PLANTS FOR COLD GREENHOUSES.</a></h2> + +<p>How often one hears complaints as to the lack of +flowers during the coldest months of the year. And +how often one sees, in almost empty greenhouses, +bare shelves that could be made gay with blossom, +and with but little labour or expense. This can be +done easily enough by selecting early flowering bulbs,<span class="pagenum">[Pg 47] </span> +and having them "potted up" early in the autumn, so +that they will have made plenty of roots by, say, +Christmas time. The pots most generally useful are +5-inch ones (often called 48's). These should have +some broken pieces put in the bottom for drainage, +and over this a layer of moss or fibre to prevent the +soil from choking it up later on. A compost made up +of three parts of rich fibrous loam, one part of silver or +river sand, and one part of leaf-soil, all well mixed, +should be prepared. A handful or two is placed over +the drainage, and one, two, three, or five bulbs, +according to size, may then be placed on a level +bottom. The pot is then filled to within about a +quarter of an inch of the rim, the soil being firmly +pressed down between the bulbs, the tops of which +may be either level with the surface or beneath it. +In any case, it is not necessary to bury bulbs that are +going to have the protection of a greenhouse so deep +as those planted in the open air, where they will have +no protection from the weather.</p> + +<p>The bulbs, having been potted, and labelled if +necessary, say sometime in October or November, need +not be taken into the greenhouse at once. It is better +to keep them in the open air, covered with two or +three inches of fine ashes or coco-nut fibre until the +bulbs have made plenty of new roots in the soil, or<span class="pagenum">[Pg 48] </span> +they may be sheltered in a cold frame. Any time +after this, as many pots as may be required are taken +out of the ashes or fibre, the remains of which should +be washed from the pots and shaken off the surface +of the soil. If there is a slight warmth in the greenhouse, +just enough to keep the frost out on cold nights, +so much the better, but too much heat is unnecessary, +unless one wishes to "force" bulbs into very early +bloom. This, however, generally means exhaustion, if +not death, to the bulbs so artificially treated.</p> + +<p>There are many kinds of bulbous plants suitable +for the decoration of cold greenhouses in winter and +early spring in the way indicated, and the following +may be regarded as a good selection:—Bulbocodiums, +Chionodoxas, Crocuses (Spring), Erythroniums, Fritillarias +(dwarf), Snowdrops, Hyacinths, Snowflakes, +Grape Hyacinths, Dwarf Narcissi, Puschkinias, +Scillas, Sternbergia Fischeriana, Bulbous Irises, +Tecophilæa—all of which are described in their +respective places in this work.</p><br> + + + +<br> +<h2><a name="BULBOUS_PLANTS_FOR_WINDOW_BOXES" id="BULBOUS_PLANTS_FOR_WINDOW_BOXES"></a><a href="#INDEX">BULBOUS PLANTS FOR WINDOW BOXES.</a></h2> + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_13" id="PLATE_13"></a>PLATE 13.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-13.jpg" width="350" height="519" alt="BRODIÆA UNIFLORA (51-52), CHIONODOXA SARDENSIS (53), +ERYTHRONIUM DENS-CANIS (54-55)" title="BRODIÆA UNIFLORA (51-52), CHIONODOXA SARDENSIS (53), +ERYTHRONIUM DENS-CANIS (54-55)" > +<span class="caption">BRODIÆA UNIFLORA (51-52), CHIONODOXA SARDENSIS (53), +ERYTHRONIUM DENS-CANIS (54-55)</span> +</div> + +<p>When the Zonal Pelargoniums, Marguerites, +Fuchsias, Lobelias, &c., have done their duty in the +window boxes during the summer and autumn months,<span class="pagenum">[Pg 49] </span> +it is essential that something else must take their +places for the winter and spring months, unless they +are to be left bare. Dwarf shrubs, of course, like +Aucubas, Golden Privet, Cupressus, Skimmias, &c., +are much favoured, and rightly so. But in conjunction +with them many kinds of bulbous plants may be +used, and planted at the same time as the shrubs. +Snowdrops and Crocuses are great favourites for the +edges of boxes. Besides these, however, the beautiful +blue-flowered Grape Hyacinths (Muscari), the +Chionodoxas and Scilla sibirica, may be used in a +similar way and with great effect, or as a carpet +beneath the shrubs. If the latter are not placed too +close together, space may be left for a few bulbs of +Tulips and Daffodils to peep out between them.</p> + +<p>Of course, window boxes filled entirely with +bulbous plants would probably look much more +artistic than those having a mixture of shrubs and +bulbs. Combinations in miniature could be made +in the same way as suggested for the open air beds +on <a href="#Page_41">p. 41</a>. Boxes planted with Polyanthuses, Primroses, +Forget-me-Nots, Silene, White Arabis, Yellow +Alyssum, Wallflowers, &c., as well as bulbs, would +not look bare in autumn or winter, and would be very +effective when in blossom in the spring time.</p><br> + + +<br> +<h2><a name="DESCRIPTIONS_CULTURE" id="DESCRIPTIONS_CULTURE"></a>DESCRIPTIONS, CULTURE, PROPAGATION, &c., OF +THE BEST BULBOUS PLANTS FOR THE OPEN AIR.</h2><p><span class="pagenum">[Pg 50] </span></p> + +<p><b><a name="ALLIUM" id="ALLIUM"></a><a href="#INDEX">ALLIUM.</a></b>—Although about 250 species of this +liliaceous genus are known, only a dozen or so are +usually met with in gardens—the limited number +being probably due to the pungent and not altogether +agreeable odour they emit when bruised or cut. In +fact, the plants may be briefly described as more or +less ornamental Onions, as they belong to the same +family as this well-known esculent, and naturally +possess a family likeness. The bulbs are tunicated, +the leaves either flat as in the Leek, or roundish and +hollow as in the ordinary Onion, while the 6-petalled +starry flowers are borne in umbels on the top of the +shoot that springs out of the bulb under the ground.</p> + +<p>The kinds mentioned below flourish in ordinary +good garden soil of a gritty nature, that has been +deeply dug and well-manured. They are useful for +the decoration of the flower border in bold patches, +but are probably more natural in grass-land, where +they can remain for several years undisturbed. The +bulbs may be planted in early autumn, 3 or 4 inches +deep—more or less according to the size of the bulbs,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a> </span> +and will come into blossom from April and May, till +July or August. As cut flowers, they are very ornamental, +but unfortunately, they are not greatly used in +this way owing to their odour, which some people find +quite unbearable. Propagation is effected by means +of offsets from the bulbs, or seeds. Two species—<i>A. +Moly</i>, and <i>A. neapolitanum</i>—are often forced into early +blossoms in the greenhouse, in the way mentioned at +<a href="#Page_46">p. 46.</a></p> + +<p>The following are the best kinds:—<i>Neapolitanum</i>, +<i>Erdeli</i> (see <a href="#PLATE_18">Plate 18</a>, fig. 72), <i>karataviense</i>, <i>triquetrum</i>, +<i>ursinum</i>, and <i>zebdanense</i>, all with white or whitish +flowers; <i>acuminatum</i>, <i>hirtiflorum</i>, <i>Macnabianum</i>, +<i>narcissiflorum</i> (or <i>pedemontanum</i>), <i>Ostrowskianum</i>, +<i>Schuberti</i>, and <i>Suworowi</i>, representing rose, magenta, +crimson, lilac, and purple shades; the best yellow-flowered +kinds are, <i>Moly</i> (<a href="#PLATE_17">Plate 17</a>, fig. 68), <i>flavum</i>, +and <i>orientale</i>; while <i>coeruleum</i> (or <i>azureum</i>) is the most +attractive species with blue flowers. <i>A. acuminatum</i> +is the dwarfest of these, being only about a foot high, +the others rarely exceeding 1-1/2 to 2 feet, except perhaps +<i>hirtiflorum</i> and <i>Suworowi</i>, which often are 3 feet high.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="AMARYLLIS" id="AMARYLLIS"></a><a href="#INDEX">AMARYLLIS</a> Belladonna</b> (<i><a name="Belladonna_Lily" id="Belladonna_Lily"></a>Belladonna Lily</i>).—This +charming member of the Narcissus family deserves +more extensive cultivation than it enjoys at present. +It is a native of South Africa, and has large bulbs—3<span class="pagenum">[Pg 52] </span> +to 4 inches or more deep—with thickish, silky-woollen +coats, and strap-shaped leaves, usually 12 to 18 inches +long. About August and September, the sweet-scented +funnel-shaped blossoms of a soft rosy colour (see <a href="#PLATE_31">Plate +31</a>, fig. 111) are produced on top of a stout stalk, 12 to +18 inches high, after the foliage has withered. Some +varieties are better than others, but the best of all is +that which originated at Kew, and is remarkable for +having three or four dozen rich rosy crimson flowers +on a scape 2 to 3 feet high.</p> + +<p>The Belladonna Lily can only be grown satisfactorily +in the open air in the milder parts of the +kingdom. The bulbs should be planted about +9 inches deep in a well-drained loamy soil containing +plenty of sand and leaf-soil. Beneath a wall facing +due south is generally a good position for the plants. +In winter, cold rains should be kept off by placing a +layer of leaves or litter over the dormant bulbs. The +simplest way to increase the stock is to detach the +offsets from the old bulbs whenever the latter are +disturbed—say every fourth or fifth year.</p> + +<p><i>Note.</i>—The gorgeous plants grown in greenhouses +under the name of Amaryllis rightly belong to the +genus Hippeastrum, and are too tender for open air +culture in our climate.</p> + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_14" id="PLATE_14"></a>PLATE 14.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-14.jpg" width="350" height="521" alt="ENGLISH IRISES (56-59)" title="ENGLISH IRISES (56-59)" > +<span class="caption">ENGLISH IRISES (56-59)</span><br> +</div> + +<p><b><a name="ANTHOLYZA" id="ANTHOLYZA"></a><a href="#INDEX">ANTHOLYZA.</a></b>—The brown-coated corms, sword-like<span class="pagenum">[Pg 53] </span> +leaves, and the bright-coloured tubular flowers of +these plants very much resemble those of the closely-related +genus Gladiolus. Indeed, what suits the +Gladiolus will suit the Antholyzas in the way of a +well-drained loamy soil. A somewhat warmer and +sunnier position is, however, necessary, as these South +African plants have not been acclimatised by selection +and hybridisation in the same way as the Gladiolus. +The best-known kinds are <i>æthiopica</i>, with spikes of +scarlet and greenish flowers; <i>caffra</i>, rich scarlet; +<i>Cunonia</i>, scarlet and black; <i>fulgens</i>, rich coppery rose; +and <i>paniculata</i>, with red, brown, and yellow blossoms, +and apparently the hardiest of all. They are all best +increased by offsets.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="BABIANA" id="BABIANA"></a><a href="#INDEX">BABIANA</a></b> (<i><a name="Baboon_Root" id="Baboon_Root"></a>Baboon Root</i>).—Charming plants of the +Iris family, with fibrous-coated corms about an inch in +diameter, stiffish, hairy, plaited leaves, and dense +spikes of funnel-shaped flowers. The latter, in most +cases, are sweetly scented and brilliantly coloured, and +in a cut state, are exceedingly handsome for decorative +work. Unfortunately the plants are not very hardy, +and can only be grown in the open air in the very +warmest and mildest parts of the kingdom with anything +like success. In favourable localities the corms +should be planted 3 or 4 inches deep, in mild weather, +any time between September and November. The<span class="pagenum">[Pg 54] </span> +soil should be very light, loamy, and well-drained, and +the position should be the warmest and sunniest in the +garden. Plenty of sand or grit around the corms is +an advantage, and a covering of leaves or litter will +keep off cold winter rains. Babianas are very useful +for cool greenhouse decoration, and may be easily +grown in pots, only giving water when roots have +developed, and the new leaves are beginning to show. +(See <a href="#Page_46">p. 46</a>).</p> + +<p>The best kinds are <i>disticha</i>, pale blue; <i>plicata</i>, +violet blue; <i>ringens</i>, scarlet; <i>stricta</i>, the three outer +segments of which are white, the three inner lilac-blue +with a dark blotch at the base. This is the best-known +kind, and there are many forms of it, notably +<i>angustifolia</i>, bright blue tinged with pink; and +<i>rubro-cyanea</i>, brilliant blue and crimson. All increased +by offsets.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="BESSERA" id="BESSERA"></a><a href="#INDEX">BESSERA</a> elegans.</b>—A pretty liliaceous plant, 1-1/2 to +2 feet high, with slender rush-like leaves, and scarlet +or scarlet and white bell-shaped blossoms. Being a +native of Mexico it is rather tender, and can only be +grown out of doors in the mildest parts of the British +Isles in the same way as the Babianas. As a pot +plant it may be grown in a cool greenhouse. Increased +by offsets from the brown silky-coated corms.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="BLOOMERIA" id="BLOOMERIA"></a><a href="#INDEX">BLOOMERIA</a> aurea.</b>—This is the best known<span class="pagenum">[Pg 55] </span> +species. It is a native of California and belongs to +the Lily family. The small corms are covered with +netted pale brown coats, from which spring long +narrow leaves, and umbels of bright yellow starry +flowers about June or July. <i>B. Clevelandi</i> is another +species with smaller yellow flowers. The corms of +both kinds should be planted in warm sunny spots in +well-drained sandy loam and leaf-soil in the autumn, +and a little protection with leaves or litter may be +given in cold wet winters.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="BOBARTIA" id="BOBARTIA"></a><a href="#INDEX">BOBARTIA</a> aurantiaca.</b>—This pretty member of +the Iris family is also known under the name of +<i>Homeria</i>. It has roundish corms, an inch or more in +diameter, covered with pale brown shaggy fibrous +coats. The orange-red or yellow blossoms appear in +summer and last a long time. The plant is a native +of South Africa, and can only be grown in the mildest +parts of the kingdom in the same way as the +Babianas, Ixias, &c., which see. Increased by offsets.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="BRAVOA" id="BRAVOA"></a><a href="#INDEX">BRAVOA</a> geminiflora.</b>—A graceful Mexican plant +of the Narcissus family, with roundish fibrous-coated +corms over an inch in diameter, and narrow sword-like +leaves 12 to 18 inches long. The bright red or +scarlet tubular blossoms droop in pairs from stalks +1 to 2 feet high from July onwards. In the milder +parts of the kingdom this plant may be grown easily<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a> </span> +in sheltered sunny spots in rich sandy loam and leaf-soil, +protection being only needed in severe winters +from cold heavy rains or hard frosts by means of +leaves or litter. Increased by offsets in autumn or +seeds sown in spring.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="BREVOORTIA" id="BREVOORTIA"></a><a href="#INDEX">BREVOORTIA</a> Ida-Maia</b> (<i>Brodiæa coccinea</i>).—This +beautiful Liliaceous plant is popularly known as +the "Californian Fire Cracker." It has roundish +corms an inch or so in diameter, with brown fibrous +coats. The leaves are very narrow, while the tubular +flowers are borne in loose umbels in June or July on +top of slender wiry stalks 2 to 3 feet high. The +shape and colour of the individual blossoms are shown +on <a href="#PLATE_19">Plate 19</a>, fig. 75. They are very attractive in bold +masses, and are excellent for cutting purposes. In +the garden it is essential to support the slender +flower-stems with thin sticks to keep the blossoms +from trailing in the dirt. During September and +October is the best time to plant the corms 3 to 4 +inches deep, in rich sandy loam, in warm sunny spots +in the border or rock-garden, where they should be +allowed to remain for three or four seasons before they +need be disturbed. Increased by offsets and seeds.</p> + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_15" id="PLATE_15"></a>PLATE 15.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-15.jpg" width="350" height="518" alt="SPANISH IRISES (60-63)" title="SPANISH IRISES (60-63)" > +<span class="caption">SPANISH IRISES (60-63)</span><br> +</div> + +<p><b><a name="BRODIAEA" id="BRODIAEA"></a><a href="#INDEX">BRODIÆA.</a></b>—The plants belonging to this genus +have practically the same characters as those of +Brevoortia, the chief differences being that many (but<span class="pagenum">[Pg 57] </span> +not all) of the Brodiæas have six fertile stamens instead +of three, and the perianth in many cases is more funnel +or bell-shaped than cylindrical. The corms are about +the same size with netted, brown, silky coats, but are +quite distinct from those in the section formerly +known under the names of <i>Milla</i> and <i>Triteleia</i>. The +cultural treatment is precisely the same as detailed +under Brevoortia above. An idea as to the beauty of +the blossoms of some of the kinds may be gained from +a glance at Plates <a href="#PLATE_13">13</a>, <a href="#PLATE_19">19</a>, <a href="#PLATE_20">20</a>, and <a href="#PLATE_24">24</a>, in which <i>B. laxa</i> +(fig. 76), <i>B. ixioides</i> (fig. 77) (also known as <i><a name="Calliprora_lutea" id="Calliprora_lutea"></a><a href="#INDEX">Calliprora</a> +lutea</i>), <i>B. Bridgesi</i> (fig. 91), <i>B. Howelli lilacina</i> (fig. 80), +and <i>B. uniflora</i> (figs. 51 and 52) (the last named being +remarkable for having flowers singly instead of in +umbels), are respectively depicted. Other species well +worth growing are <i>californica</i>, rosy-purple; <i>capitata</i>, +lilac or violet, and its white variety <i>alba</i>; <i>congesta</i>, +deep violet; <i>Douglasi</i>, bright blue; <i>gracilis</i>, bright +yellow; <i>grandiflora</i>, violet-blue; <i>Hendersoni</i>, salmon-yellow +striped with purple; <i>Howelli</i>, porcelain-white +striped with blue; <i>hyacinthina</i>, purple, and its white +variety <i>lactea</i>; <i>Leichtlini</i>, white; <i>multiflora</i>, pale blue; +<i>Orcutti</i>, lilac; <i>peduncularis</i>, porcelain-white to rosy-purple; +<i>Purdyi</i>, rosy-purple to lilac; <i>rosea</i>, rose-red to +pinkish-purple; <i>Sellowiana</i>, yellow; and <i>stellaris</i>, +reddish-purple to deep blue. To these may be added<span class="pagenum">[Pg 58] </span> +<i>B. volubilis</i>, remarkable for having twining stems often +12 feet long, and having 15 to 30 rose-coloured flowers +in an umbel.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="BULBOCODIUM" id="BULBOCODIUM"></a><a href="#INDEX">BULBOCODIUM</a> vernum.</b>—A charming Crocus-like +plant of the Lily family, closely related to the Meadow +Saffrons (Colchicum), as may be seen by comparing +the method of lateral growth of the brown-coated +corms—each an inch or more in diameter. It is a +native of the Alps. In mild seasons it often produces +its violet or rosy-purple funnel-shaped flowers in +January, not more than 6 inches from the ground, +and remains in blossom in company with Snowdrops, +Leucojums, &c. The leaves appear afterwards and +elaborate food for the production of next year's corms +before they wither. A rich well-drained loam with a +little sand and leaf-soil suits it very well, and the +corms may be planted in September or October about +4 inches deep, in bold masses in the rock garden or +grass-land, and left alone for a few years, after which +there will be numerous offsets to increase the stock. +As slugs are very fond of the young growths, they +must be carefully looked for morning and evening, +and a little soot or lime carefully spread round the +plants may help to check them (see <a href="#Page_142">p. 142</a>).</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="CALOCHORTUS" id="CALOCHORTUS"></a><a href="#INDEX">CALOCHORTUS</a></b> (<i>Mariposa Lily</i>).—A very distinct +group of Liliaceous plants with brown-coated bulbs,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a> </span> +narrow leaves, and very showy and distinct-looking +blossoms—some of which are shown in <a href="#PLATE_22">Plate 22</a>, +fig. 84, and also in <a href="#PLATE_20">Plate 20</a> of the companion volume +"<span class="smcap">Beautiful Garden Flowers</span>." Joined to the Mariposa +Lilies proper are the "<a href="#INDEX">Star Tulips,</a>" formerly known +under the name of <i><a href="#INDEX">Cyclobothra</a></i>—well-known representatives +of which are shown in the same Plate, figs. +85 and 86. They are quite distinct in the appearance +of the flowers, but botanically they are considered to +be identical in the important characters. Both groups +are well worth growing in the milder parts of the +kingdom in warm sunny parts of the garden. This is +essential as most of them are natives of California, +Oregon, Arizona, and parts of Mexico, where they +have plenty of sunshine and are not subject to the +cold drenching rains that often characterise the +British winter. In colder districts where they would +be unable to survive the ordinary winter, the plants +may be brought to perfection in a cold frame so long +as they are free from frost and heavy rains. The +soil in which they appear to flourish best seems to be +sharp sand, leaf-soil and road grit, well mixed together +with a little loam added. The bed—in which the +bulbs are to be planted 3 to 4 inches deep, from +September to November, but not later—should be +raised above the general level, the better to throw the<span class="pagenum">[Pg 60] </span> +water off in winter. If the beds or borders are facing +south and slightly sloping, so much the better. A +light covering with reeds or bracken is advisable +during severe weather, but should be removed on all +warm days, and altogether from February and March, +as the young growths will then begin to push through +the soil. After the flowering period—<i>i.e.</i>, July and +August—is over, and the foliage has withered, the +bulbs may be either lifted and carefully stored in sand +or dry earth until the planting season comes round +again; or, better still, lights may be placed over them +to keep the bulbs dry and allow them to ripen +thoroughly and naturally. If the latter treatment is +adopted the bulbs need not be disturbed for three or +four years, and will give better blossom on the whole +in consequence. It must be remembered that although +the bulbs dislike moisture when dormant, they must +have a sufficient supply during active growth, otherwise +they may soon become parched and withered. +The easiest way to increase the plants is by means of +offsets. When seeds ripen they may be sown very +thinly in pots or pans in spring, and the seedlings may +remain for a couple of seasons before being transplanted. +Sometimes "bulbils" (see <a href="#Page_32">p. 32</a>) are +produced on the stems, and may be sown in light +sandy soil as if they were seeds. From seeds and<span class="pagenum">[Pg 61] </span> +bulbils it takes from three to six years to produce a +flowering bulb.</p> + +<p>There are now several kinds of Mariposa Lily in +cultivation. Of these the varieties of the <i>venustus</i> +group are undoubtedly the handsomest. (See <a href="#PLATE_22">Plate 22</a>, +fig. 84.) They grow about 18 inches high, and have +cup-shaped flowers 3 inches across, having three very +large and three very small segments. The colour of the +type is white, yellow at the base, deeply stained with +crimson, and having a conspicuous blotch at the base. +In the variety <i>alba</i> the flowers are wholly white; +<i>lilacinus</i>, deep lilac; <i>purpurascens</i>, lilac-purple; <i>citrinus</i>, +lemon-yellow; <i>oculatus</i>, with rosy buds passing into +white, with a deep blackish-purple blotch in the centre +of a yellow base; and <i>Vesta</i>, flowers very large, white +flushed with rose, and marked with brown and yellow +at the base.</p> + +<p>Other kinds are <i>albus</i>, with drooping pearly-white +flowers (<a href="#PLATE_22">Plate 22</a>, fig. 85); <i>apiculatus</i>, lemon-yellow; +<i>Benthami</i>, bright yellow; <i>coeruleus</i>, lilac or creamy-white, +densely bearded with blue hairs; <i>clavatus</i>, golden-yellow; +<i>elegans</i>, white tinged with purple, but rich +pink in the variety <i>amoenus</i>; <i>flavus</i>, yellow, drooping; +<i>Goldyi</i>, old gold with hairy centre; <i>Howelli</i>, creamy-white; +<i>Kennedyi</i>, orange-red; <i>lilacinus</i>, pink, purple, +or lilac, a fine species; <i>luteus</i>, yellow or orange, with<span class="pagenum">[Pg 62] </span> +purple hairs; <i>Plummeræ</i>, large soft lilac flowers, with +golden-yellow hairs and blotched with purple; +<i>pulchellus</i>, orange-yellow, sweet-scented, drooping +(see <a href="#PLATE_22">Plate 22</a>, fig. 86); <i>Purdyi</i>, white, spotted +with purple, and covered with long white hairs; +<i>splendens</i> pale lilac, with silky white hairs and deep +purple blotches at base; and <i>Weedi</i>, yellow.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="CAMASSIA" id="CAMASSIA"></a><a href="#INDEX">CAMASSIA.</a></b>—Graceful-looking North American +plants of the Lily family, with rather large ovoid +bulbs, strap-shaped tapering leaves, and loose racemes +of starry blossoms which usually appear from May to +July, and are useful for decorations when cut. They +flourish in ordinary good and well-drained garden soil +in warm sheltered spots. The bulbs should be planted +in September or October, and covered with about +twice their own depth of soil. They may be left undisturbed +for a few seasons, but in that case a +mulching of well-decayed manure in autumn would be +beneficial. New plants are most readily secured by +offsets from the old bulbs. Seeds, however, are +freely produced in most places and should be sown in +cold frames as soon as ripe. (See <a href="#Page_36">p. 36</a>).</p> + + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_16" id="PLATE_16"></a>PLATE 16.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-16.jpg" width="350" height="521" alt="MADONNA LILY (64) FRITILLARIA IMPERIALIS, VARS. (65-66)" +title="MADONNA LILY (64) FRITILLARIA IMPERIALIS, VARS. (65-66)" > +<span class="caption">MADONNA LILY (64) FRITILLARIA IMPERIALIS, VARS. (65-66)</span> +</div> + +<p>There are only a few species, the best being +<i>C. esculenta</i>, the <a name="Quamash" id="Quamash"></a><a href="#INDEX">Quamash</a> or Camass Root of the +North American Indians. The blue flowers, each about +2 inches across, are borne on scapes 1-1/2 to 3 feet high,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a> </span> +and look very handsome above the narrow arching +leaves. <i>C. Cusicksi</i>, with porcelain-blue flowers (see +<a href="#PLATE_18">Plate 18</a>, fig. 70), grows 3 to 4 feet high. <i>C. Fraseri</i>, +with very pale-blue flowers, is about 1-1/2 feet high; +while <i>C. Leichtlini</i> grows 3 to 4 feet high, and has large +creamy-white blossoms, about 3 inches in diameter.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="CHIONODOXA" id="CHIONODOXA"></a><a href="#INDEX">CHIONODOXA</a> Luciliæ</b> (<i>Glory of the Snow</i>).—This +charming harbinger of spring is a native of Asia Minor, +where it pushes its beautiful brilliant blue and white +blossoms (see <a href="#PLATE_2">Plate 2</a>, fig. 9) through the snow-clad +mountains early in the year. It has ovoid bulbs about +1 to 2 inches deep, arching leaves, and each flower-stalk +6 to 10 inches high, carries from six to twenty +blossoms in February, March, and April. There are +several fine varieties, the best being <i>gigantea</i> (or +<i>grandiflora</i>), with very large flowers; <i>sardensis</i>, shown +on <a href="#PLATE_13">Plate 13</a>, fig. 53, has gentian-blue flowers. The +variety <i>alba</i> has pure-white flowers, and <i>Tmolusi</i> and +<i>Alleni</i> are also good varieties. A hybrid between +<i>C. Luciliæ</i> and <i>Scilla bifolia</i> is known as <i><a name="Chiono-scilla" id="Chiono-scilla"></a><a href="#INDEX">Chiono-scilla</a></i>, +but is not common. Other Chionodoxas are <i>C. cretica</i>, +with white or pale-blue flowers very scantily produced; +and <i>C. nana</i>, with white or lilac-tinted flowers.</p> + +<p>Chionodoxas flourish in ordinary good garden soil, +and are suitable for the rockery, flower-border, +beneath deciduous trees in shrubberies, or in the<span class="pagenum">[Pg 64] </span> +grass. To be effective in any of these positions they +should be planted in hundreds and thousands, and in +grass-land may be mixed with the smaller-flowered +kinds of Narcissus (<i>e.g.</i>, <i>minimus</i>, <i>cyclamineus</i>, <i>triandrus</i>). +In the latter case the bulbs may be left +alone for years with advantage, as they never interfere +with mowing operations.</p> + +<p>Offsets are freely produced from the old bulbs, +and are the easiest means of increasing the stock. +Seeds may be sown when ripe, but they take a few +years to produce flowering bulbs (see <a href="#Page_34">p. 34</a>).</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="CHLOROGALUM" id="CHLOROGALUM"></a><a href="#INDEX">CHLOROGALUM</a> pomeridianum</b> (<i>Soap Plant</i>).—A +distinct looking plant about 2 feet high, with blue-green +leaves and spikes of whitish purple-veined +flowers, that usually open in the afternoon during the +summer months. It flourishes in ordinary soil, and +may be increased by offsets from the old bulbs. The +best time to plant is in autumn.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="COLCHICUM" id="COLCHICUM"></a><a href="#INDEX">COLCHICUM</a></b> (<i>Meadow Saffron</i>).—In the autumn, +when the landscape looks more or less dreary, the +Colchicums relieve the monotony with their bright +appearance. The bulbs are peculiarly one-sided, and +differ a good deal in size according to the species, so +that they should be planted at various depths according +to size. The best time for planting is July, or not +later than August, and if massed in bold patches in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a> </span> +the grass, flower-border, shrubbery, or rock-garden, +the effect later on will be much more effective than if +the bulbs were put in sparingly. A rich sandy loam +will suit most kinds, but any good and well-drained +garden soil will give satisfactory results. It may be +remarked that most kinds produce their flowers without +the leaves. The latter appear the following spring +to elaborate food for the new bulbs, dying down +during the summer. Colchicums are best propagated +by offsets. Seeds may also be sown about midsummer +when thoroughly ripe, and will produce flowering +bulbs in five or six years (see <a href="#Page_34">p. 34</a>). There are +many kinds, the most popular being: <i>C. autumnale</i>, +a British plant, popularly known as the "Autumn +Crocus"—owing to the shape and bright purple +colour of its cup-shaped blossoms, which appear from +the end of August to November. There are many +varieties of it such as <i>album</i>, white; with a double +form; <i>maximum</i>, purple; <i>purpureum</i>, purple rose; +and <i>striatum</i>, red striped with white. <i>C. Bivonæ</i> has +flowers chequered with white and purple. <i>C. Bornmülleri</i>, +a fine species with rosy-lilac flowers. +<i>C. byzantinum</i> has pale rose blossoms. <i>C. giganteum</i>, +flowers rosy, very large. <i>C. libanoticum</i>, white. +<i>C. montanum</i> produces its lilac-purple or whitish +flowers in February and March. <i>C. Parkinsoni</i><span class="pagenum">[Pg 66] </span> +has white flowers distinctly veined and chequered +with violet-purple. The flowers of <i>C. speciosum</i>, +shown in <a href="#PLATE_33">Plate 33</a>, fig. 118, appear in September and +October, and vary from reddish or rose-purple to deep +crimson-purple. <i>C. variegatum</i> (a very old species +also called <i>Parkinsoni</i>) has its rosy flowers beautifully +chequered with violet purple.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="CRINUM" id="CRINUM"></a><a href="#INDEX">CRINUM.</a></b>—Most of the Crinums require the protection +of a greenhouse or hothouse in our climate. +The kinds mentioned below, however, may be grown +in the open air in the milder parts of the country. +The large and broad strap-shaped leaves, 2 to 4 feet +long, more or less gracefully recurving from the long-necked +bulbs, are in themselves a noble sight, but +their beauty is considerably enhanced when the large, +funnel-shaped blossoms are borne in clusters on the +top of a stout, fleshy stalk. Given a rich and well-drained, +loamy soil, warm-sheltered spots, and sufficient +moisture during active growth, and the hardy Crinums +usually flourish. They may be increased by offsets +taken from the base of the large old bulbs; or by +means of the large fleshy bulb-like seeds that are +produced in favourable seasons. The seed needs only +to be placed on the top of moist soil in a pot, and +under the shelter of a greenhouse or cold frame will +soon germinate in its own peculiar way. The best-known<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a> </span> +hardy Crinums are <i>C. Moorei</i>, a native of South +Africa. It has large long-necked bulbs, broad bright-green +leaves 2 to 3 feet long, and clusters of soft-pink +flowers, each 6 inches or more across, on a scape 2 to +3 feet high (see <a href="#PLATE_30">Plate 30</a>, fig. 109). <i>C. Powelli</i>, with +a reddish wash down the centre of the petals, and its +pure white variety <i>album</i> (<a href="#PLATE_32">Plate 32</a>, fig. 115) are also +two very fine plants for the out-door garden. They are +really forms, or hybrids perhaps, of the South African +<i>S. longifolium</i> (or <i>C. capense</i>), which has large white +flowers with a central reddish stain on the outside of +the petals. It is quite as hardy as the other kinds +and may be treated in the same way.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="CROCOSMA" id="CROCOSMA"></a><a href="#INDEX">CROCOSMA</a> aurea.</b>—This beautiful Iridaceous +plant is perhaps better known as <i>Tritonia aurea</i>. It +is a native of South Africa, and has fibrous-coated +corms, narrow sword-shaped leaves, and brilliant +orange-red starry blossoms borne on branched stems +about 2 feet high, in August or September. It likes +a rich sandy loam and leaf-soil and soon makes fine +clumps in the milder parts of the kingdom. In cold +districts and the north generally, the corms may be +lifted in October or November, when the leaves have +withered, and may be stored in sand or soil until +spring. Then they may be replanted, any offsets +from the older corms being placed in separate beds<span class="pagenum">[Pg 68] </span> +and grown on until large enough for flowering. As +a pot plant for greenhouse decoration, the Crocosma +is most useful. After potting in spring, the pots +may be plunged (<i>i.e.</i>, sunk up to the rims) in ashes or +fibre, and plenty of water should be given during the +summer months when the growth is active. When +the flower-spikes appear the plants may be taken into +the greenhouse or conservatory.</p> + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_17" id="PLATE_17"></a>PLATE 17.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-17.jpg" width="350" height="529" alt="LILIUM CROCEUM (67) ALLIUM MOLY (68) +SCILLA PERUVIANA ALBA (69)" title="LILIUM CROCEUM (67) ALLIUM MOLY (68) +SCILLA PERUVIANA ALBA (69)" > +<span class="caption">LILIUM CROCEUM (67) ALLIUM MOLY (68) +SCILLA PERUVIANA ALBA (69)</span> +</div><br> + +<p><b><a name="CROCUS" id="CROCUS"></a><a href="#INDEX">CROCUS.</a></b>—The popularity of the Crocus is undoubted, +but popular favour generally confines itself +to the white, blue, lilac, purple, yellow, and striped +varieties of <i>C. aureus</i>, the Old Dutch yellow Crocus, +and <i>C. vernus</i>. These all flower from February to +April, and when planted in hundreds and thousands +in the borders or grass-land they are then indeed a +glorious sight, especially if naturalised with Snowdrops, +Leucojums, and Bulbocodiums. The individual +blossoms do not last long, but they are thrown up so +profusely from the roundish corms beneath, that they +give a continuous glow for several weeks in early +spring. The above all flourish in light sandy loam +and leaf-soil. To secure the best results the corms +should be planted about 3 inches deep in September or +October. When possible, as in grass-land for example, +the plants should not be disturbed for a few seasons, +so they may increase as Nature intended. In this way<span class="pagenum">[Pg 69] </span> +they will produce a more striking picture each succeeding +year, especially if they have had the advantage +of a top-dressing with well-decayed manure in +autumn. When the corms have to be lifted each year +to make way in the borders for summer-flowering +plants, the best time to take them up is when the +foliage has begun to wither. This process is often +hastened by twisting the narrow leaves and tying +them into little bundles.</p> + +<p>Apart from the ordinary spring-flowering Crocuses, +<i>aureus</i> and <i>vernus</i> (a selection of which can be obtained +from any bulb catalogue), there are several natural +species which also flower in spring, and may be planted +and grown exactly in the same way. Amongst these +the best known are <i>alatavicus</i>, white and yellow; +<i>Balansæ</i>, orange-yellow; <i>banaticus</i>, bright purple and +white; <i>biflorus</i>, white to pale lavender, known as the +"<a name="Cloth_of_Silver" id="Cloth_of_Silver"></a>Cloth of Silver Crocus," of which there are many +beautiful forms; <i>Biliotti</i>, purple; <i>carpetanus</i>, lilac to +white; <i>chrysanthus</i>, orange-yellow, with several varieties; +<i>dalmaticus</i>, lilac and yellow; <i>etruscus</i>, purple and +yellow, striped; <i>Fleischeri</i>, white and yellow, veined +purple; <i>Imperati</i>, lilac-purple, with deeper stripes; +<i>Korolkowi</i>, yellow; <i>reticulatus</i> or <i>variegatus</i>, white to +deep lilac, veined purple; <i>stellaris</i>, orange; <i>suaveolens</i>, +lilac and yellow, veined purple; <i>Susianus</i> or <i>revolutus</i>,<span class="pagenum">[Pg 70] </span> +deep orange, known as the "Cloth of Gold Crocus"; +<i>versicolor</i>, purple to white, veined purple; and <i>vitellinus</i>, +orange.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="Autumn-Flowering_Crocuses" id="Autumn-Flowering_Crocuses"></a><a href="#INDEX">Autumn-Flowering Crocuses.</a></b>—Colchicums, and +especially <i>C. autumnale</i>, are popularly known as +"Autumn Crocuses." They belong, however, to the +Lily family, and must not be confused with those +species of Crocus proper which belong to the Iris +family, and also flower during the autumn months, +sometimes even as late as December, when the blossoms +are often spoiled by the weather, unless protected with +handlights or frames. At this period they are very +useful, with the Colchicums and Sternbergias, for the +decoration of grassy slopes and banks, and may be +intermingled with them in places where they can +remain undisturbed for some years.</p> + +<p>The chief difference in the cultivation of Spring +and Autumn Crocuses, is that the corms of the latter +should be planted in July, or not later than August—in +fact, at the same time as the Colchicums. The +following are among the best Autumn Crocuses:—<i>Asturicus</i>, +violet, purple; <i>Boryi</i>, white and yellow; +<i>cancellatus</i>, white to purple, and lilac; <i>caspius</i>, white +tinted rose; <i>Clusi</i>, pale purple and white; <i>hadriaticus</i>, +white and purple; <i>iridiflorus</i> or <i>byzantinus</i>, purple, +lilac; <i>Karduchorum</i>, lilac, veined with purple; <i>longiflorus</i>,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a> </span> +lilac, yellow, sweet-scented; <i>medius</i>, purple, +veined, see <a href="#PLATE_33">Plate 33</a>, fig. 117; <i>ochroleucus</i>, creamy-white, +orange, see <a href="#PLATE_33">Plate 33</a>, fig. 121; <i>pulchellus</i>, +lavender-blue and yellow, veined; <i>Salzmanni</i>, lilac +to white, veined; <i>sativus</i>, lilac, veined purple; the +well-known "Saffron Crocus" of commerce, with +several varieties; <i>Scharojani</i>, orange-yellow; <i>speciosus</i>, +lilac, purple, with deeper veins, see <a href="#PLATE_33">Plate 33</a>, fig. 122; +and <i>zonatus</i>, rosy-lilac, veined purple.</p> + +<p>All Crocuses may be easily increased by offsets, +which may be detached when the corms are lifted. +Seeds take about three years to produce flowering +corms (see <a href="#Page_34">p. 34</a>).</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="DIERAMA" id="DIERAMA"></a><a href="#INDEX">DIERAMA</a></b> (<b>Sparaxis</b>) <b>pulcherrima.</b>—This is a charming +South African plant with fibrous-coated corms, +and long narrow sword-like leaves. It has beautiful +funnel-shaped flowers, which droop from thread-like +stalks about September and October, a period when +they are sometimes injured by the bad weather. The +blossoms, which are shown on <a href="#PLATE_31">Plate 31</a>, fig. 112, are +usually crimson in colour, but there also exist white, +pale-red, and prettily-striped forms, all borne on +stalks 3 to 6 feet high, and beautiful for cutting +purposes. <i>D. pendula</i>, with deeply veined lilac flowers, +is another species not so well known.</p> + +<p> +The plants cannot be considered hardy, except in<span class="pagenum">[Pg 72] </span> +the milder parts of the kingdom. In less favoured +spots they may be planted in spring in warm sunny +spots sheltered from cold winds, and if left in the +ground in winter should be protected from cold rains +and frosts with litter, bracken, lights, &c. A light +sandy loam, with a little leaf-soil, will suit the plants +best, and they may be increased by offsets.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="ERYTHRONIUM" id="ERYTHRONIUM"></a><a href="#INDEX">ERYTHRONIUM</a></b> (<i>Dog's Tooth Violet</i>).—These +pretty plants of the Lily order have more or less +oblong or cylindrical bulbs, sometimes with creeping +rhizomes, and leaves more or less marbled or blotched +or sometimes green. The 6-petalled blossoms are, +more or less, drooping, but are usually conspicuous +above the foliage and render the plants very attractive +either in the rock-garden, flower-border, or grass-land. +The plants like a moist sandy loam and leaf-soil, which, +however, must be well drained so that the bulbs may +not decay with the winter rains. Offsets are the +easiest means of increasing the stock, and are best +taken off after the flowers are over and the leaves +have withered, <i>i.e.</i>, about midsummer.</p> + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_18" id="PLATE_18"></a>PLATE 18.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-18.jpg" width="350" height="520" alt="CAMASSIA CUSICKI (70) LILIUM PYRENAICUM (71) +ALLIUM ERDELII (72) IXIOLIRION PALLASI (73)" title="CAMASSIA CUSICKI (70) LILIUM PYRENAICUM (71) +ALLIUM ERDELII (72) IXIOLIRION PALLASI (73)" > +<span class="caption">CAMASSIA CUSICKI (70) LILIUM PYRENAICUM (71) +ALLIUM ERDELII (72) IXIOLIRION PALLASI (73)</span> +</div> + +<p>The Common Dog's Tooth Violet (<i>E. Dens-Canis</i>) +is an old-world plant, and has been in cultivation many years. It has blue-green leaves, marbled with +dull purple, and the flowers are of a soft rose or +purple hue, although there are various shades (as<span class="pagenum">[Pg 73] </span> +shown on <a href="#PLATE_13">Plate 13</a>, fig. 54), including a white one. +There are now many other species and varieties +in cultivation—all natives of temperate North +America, and well worthy of a place in the garden. +They all blossom from March to May, and vary +in height from 3 to 12 inches. The following are +the best known at present:—<i>Albidum</i>, white, tinged +yellow, or wholly yellow in the variety <i>bracteatum</i>; +<i>americanum</i>, golden yellow, tinged purple; <i>citrinum</i>, +lemon yellow; <i>Dens-Canis</i> (see <a href="#PLATE_13">Plate 13</a>, figs. 54 and +55); <i>giganteum</i>, white, suffused with orange or yellow; +<i>grandiflorum</i>, yellow; <i>Hartwegi</i>, creamy-white and +orange; <i>Hendersoni</i>, rose to purple with yellow +centre; <i>Howelli</i>, yellow and orange; <i>Johnstoni</i>, rosy-pink +(see <a href="#PLATE_12">Plate 12</a>, fig. 94); <i>montanum</i>, creamy-white; +<i>propullans</i>, rose-purple; <i>purpurascens</i>, pale yellow +tinged purple, or lilac in the variety <i>grandiflorum</i>; +this species has sometimes about a dozen flowers on a +scape; and <i>revolutum</i>, pink to rosy-purple, or white +with a yellow centre in the variety <i>Bolanderi</i> or <i>Smithi</i>.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="EUCOMIS" id="EUCOMIS"></a><a href="#INDEX">EUCOMIS</a> punctata.</b>—This bold-looking plant is +probably the best and most ornamental member of the +genus. It has very large bulbs and tufts of gracefully +spreading and recurved wavy leaves, bright shining +green above, and densely spotted with purple beneath. +The creamy-white or yellowish starry blossoms, with a<span class="pagenum">[Pg 74] </span> +conspicuous violet ovary in the centre, appear from +July to September, and are packed close together on +a stout purple spotted scape 1-1/2 to 2 feet high. Other +species are <i>bicolor</i>, with unspotted leaves and greenish-yellow +flowers; <i>nana</i>, which grows only about 9 inches +high, has brownish-green blossoms; <i>undulata</i>, greenish-yellow +ones; <i>regia</i>, white; and <i>pallidiflora</i>, with leaves +over 2 feet long, and 4 inches or more broad, has +greenish-white flowers.</p> + +<p>They are all natives of South Africa, and may be +grown in warm sheltered spots in the milder parts of +the country. They like a rich and well-drained sandy +loam, and if left undisturbed for a few years, will +probably require protection in bleak localities from +winter rains and frost. They may be increased by +offsets. It takes four or five years to secure flowering +bulbs from seeds.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="FERRARIA" id="FERRARIA"></a><a href="#INDEX">FERRARIA</a> undulata.</b>—A distinct looking Iridaceous +plant with tunicated bulbs, sword-like wavy leaves, and +peculiar dull-purple flowers, each with six wavy +segments spotted with purple, and appearing in +March and April. This plant flourishes in well-drained +sandy loam and leaf-soil, and may be considered +fairly hardy in the milder parts of the kingdom. +Increased by offsets.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="FRITILLARIA" id="FRITILLARIA"></a><a href="#INDEX">FRITILLARIA</a>.</b>—There are fifty species or more<span class="pagenum">[Pg 75] </span> +belonging to this genus, but many of them, although +highly interesting, are so dull in colour or small in +blossom, that they are only likely to be met with in +botanical collections. The common Crown Imperial +(<i>F. imperialis</i>), shown in Plate 16, figs. 65 and 66, with +its sturdy stems, 2 to 3 feet high, bright green wavy +leaves, and bright yellow drooping blossoms, is +probably the best known; but there are many forms +of it in which the flowers vary in colour from yellow +to orange and bright red. The Snake's Head +(<i>F. Meleagris</i>) is another well-known species to be +seen growing naturally in moist meadows in parts of +England. Its beautiful white, rosy or purple blossoms +(see <a href="#PLATE_8">Plate 8</a>, fig. 33) droop from the stalks, 1 to +1-1/2 feet high in April and May, and are beautifully +chequered with deeper coloured bands. For +naturalising in the grass with Narcissi, Dog's Tooth +Violets, &c., this is a very valuable plant. <i>F. Moggridgei</i>, +a dwarf form of the purple, brown, and yellow +<i>delphinensis</i>, is another good garden plant shown on +<a href="#PLATE_8">Plate 8</a>, fig. 31. The following kinds may be used +for naturalising in the grass or for grouping in +nooks of the rock-garden:—<i>Fusco-lutea</i>, <i>aurea</i>, <i>citrina</i>, +<i>lusitanica</i>, <i>lutea</i>, <i>askabadensis</i> (finely figured in +"<span class="smcap">Flora and Sylva</span>,") <i>discolor</i>, <i>pallidiflora</i>, <i>pudica</i>,<span class="pagenum">[Pg 76] </span> +<i>Thunbergi</i>, <i>Whittalli</i>, all with yellow or greenish-yellow +blossoms, and ranging from 6 to 12 inches high. To +these may be added <i>F. recurva</i> (<a href="#PLATE_8">Plate 8</a>, fig. 34), a +Californian species, about 1 foot high, and remarkable +for its drooping bright orange-scarlet blossoms, the +interior of which is yellow blotched with purple. +<i>F. camtschatcensis</i>, the "Black Lily," has deep +blackish-red flowers. It flourishes in moist sandy +loam and peat.</p> + +<p><i>F. Walujewi</i>, with narrow tendril-tipped leaves, has +silver-grey flowers suffused with purple brown, and +spotted with red and white within (see <a href="#PLATE_8">Plate 8</a>, fig. 32). +To these may be added <i>armena</i>, dark purple; <i>Elwesi</i>, +green and purple; <i>pyrenaica</i>, green and purple, +spotted; <i>persica</i> or <i>libanotica</i>, chocolate, purple and +green; <i>latifolia</i>, purple, lilac, yellow, &c.</p> + +<p>The Fritillarias have bulbs of various sizes, and +many of them—notably those of <i>F. imperialis</i>—emit a +very strong and disagreeable odour. They produce +offsets freely in most cases, and in this way the stock +may be increased. The best time for lifting and transplanting +the bulbs is after the foliage has withered.</p> + + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_19" id="PLATE_19"></a>PLATE 19.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-19.jpg" width="350" height="520" alt="ORNITHOGALUM PYRAMIDALE (74) BREVOORTIA IDA-MAIA (75) +BRODIÆA LAXA (76) BRODIÆA IXIOIDES (77)" title="ORNITHOGALUM PYRAMIDALE (74) BREVOORTIA IDA-MAIA (75) +BRODIÆA LAXA (76) BRODIÆA IXIOIDES (77)" > +<span class="caption">ORNITHOGALUM PYRAMIDALE (74) BREVOORTIA IDA-MAIA (75) +BRODIÆA LAXA (76) BRODIÆA IXIOIDES (77)</span> +</div><br> + +<p><b><a name="GAGEA" id="GAGEA"></a><a href="#INDEX">GAGEA</a> lutea.</b>—This British plant, with small +roundish bulbs, and long narrow leaves, is called the +"Yellow Star of Bethlehem" on account of its yellow +starry flowers, with a green central line, appearing +from March to May on stalks about 6 inches high. It<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a> </span> +grows in ordinary garden soil and may be increased +by offsets.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="GALANTHUS" id="GALANTHUS"></a><a href="#INDEX">GALANTHUS</a></b> (<i>Snowdrop</i>).—The common British +Snowdrop (<i>G. nivalis</i>) is an old time garden favourite, +not only on account of the purity of its blossoms—almost +rivalling the whiteness of the snow—but because +they appear during the very dullest months of the year, +often before Christmas, and lasting till the Crocuses, +early Narcissi, Chionodoxas, Bulbocodiums, Leucojums, +&c., come to keep them company. A few +blooms are shown on <a href="#PLATE_2">Plate 2</a>, fig. 8, not because it +was necessary to tell the reader what a Snowdrop was +like, but to record the general appearance of other +Snowdrops that are now to be met with in cultivation. +The most important of these are <i>Elwesi</i>, with its +varieties <i>globosus</i> and <i>robustus</i>, all of which have +large flowers; <i>Fosteri</i> has been called the "King of +Snowdrops" on account of its fine leaves and flowers. +Other fine kinds are <i>Imperati</i>, <i>latifolius</i>, and <i>plicatus</i>, +the last named recognised by its long broad and +plaited leaves. Indeed there are many other varieties—including +double-flowered ones—but it is doubtful +if the ordinary observer would see any great difference +between them and the best forms of the common +Snowdrop. They all have roundish bulbs--; some +larger than others, and offsets are freely produced<span class="pagenum">[Pg 78] </span> +from them. They flourish in the border or rock-garden +in rich sandy soil and leaf-mould, but their +natural dwelling place is in the grass, where they +should be planted in hundreds and thousands and +left to take care of themselves, as they are in many +gardens in the kingdom.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="GALTONIA" id="GALTONIA"></a><a href="#INDEX">GALTONIA</a></b> (<b>Hyacinthus</b>) <b>candicans.</b>—A noble-looking +South African plant, with large roundish +bulbs and strap-shaped leaves over 2 feet long. The +pure white sweet-scented blossoms (shown on <a href="#PLATE_20">Plate 20</a>, +fig. 78) appear during the summer months, 20 or 30 +in a raceme, drooping from stout stalks about 4 feet +high. <b>G. princeps</b> is somewhat similar but not so +attractive in appearance, as its white flowers are +faintly tinged with green. Both kinds flourish in +good garden soil and should be planted in bold +clumps for effect in the flower border, and in warm +sunny spots, where they may remain undisturbed for +several years, until it is necessary to give them more +space, or to detach the offsets for increasing the stock.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="GLADIOLUS" id="GLADIOLUS"></a><a href="#INDEX">GLADIOLUS</a></b> (<i>Corn Flag</i>; <i>Sword Lily</i>).—There are +several species of Gladiolus rarely seen outside botanic +gardens. The florists' varieties, like <i>brenchleyensis</i>, +<i>Colvillei</i>, <i>Childsi</i>, <i>gandavensis</i>, <i>Lemoinei</i>, and <i>nanceianus</i>, +are much more popular owing to the brilliancy and +beauty of their blossoms. <i>G. brenchleyensis</i> (practically<span class="pagenum">[Pg 79] </span> +a form of <i>gandavensis</i>) is remarkable for its glowing +scarlet flowers; <i>G. Childsi</i> (raised from <i>gandavensis</i> +and <i>Saundersi</i>) attains a height of four or five feet, and +has spikes of bloom often 2 feet or more long. The +blossoms are 6 to 9 inches across, and possess many +shades of purple, scarlet, crimson, salmon, white, pink, +yellow, often beautifully mottled and blotched in the +throat (<a href="#PLATE_28">Plate 28</a>, fig. 105). <i>G. Colvillei</i> (raised from +<i>cardinalis</i> and <i>tristis</i>) is an early-flowering plant about +2 feet high, with crimson purple and also pure white +flowers—according to the variety. The form known +as "The Bride" is the best white (<a href="#PLATE_21">Plate 21</a>, fig. 81). +Other early-flowering forms are shown in figs. 82 and +83. <i>G. gandavensis</i> (raised from <i>cardinalis</i> and <i>psittacinus</i>) +forms a charming group as various in colour +as the <i>Childsi</i> forms, the individual flowers being +variously striped and blotched with distinct colours. +<i>G. Lemoinei</i> (raised from <i>purpureo-auratus</i> and <i>gandavensis</i>) +is the origin of a beautiful number of +hybrids, distinguished by having a large golden-yellow +blotch on the lower segments, bordered with +scarlet, crimson, purple, maroon, &c. <a href="#PLATE_28">(Plate 28</a>, +fig. 104). The colours are as numerous and as +delicate as in the <i>Childsi</i> and <i>gandavensis</i> sections. +The <i>nanceianus</i> hybrids are remarkably fine plants, +and are only comparable with those of the <i>Childsi</i><span class="pagenum">[Pg 80] </span> +group, although the blossoms are not quite so large. +The colours vary from purple, claret, violet, carmine, +orange, red, scarlet, violet, &c., and are all spotted in +various ways (see <a href="#PLATE_28">Plate 28</a>, fig. 103).</p> + +<p>The kinds of Gladioli just mentioned may be +grown to perfection in a well-drained loamy soil, +which has been deeply dug and well manured the +autumn previous to planting. From the beginning to +the end of March is an excellent time to plant the +corms or tubers, each one being inserted in a hole +made with a stout dibber, or in a drill about 4 or 5 inches +deep, and about a foot apart. Having covered the +corms and made the soil fairly firm, little more is +needed beyond keeping weeds down, until the flower +spikes begin to show in July and August. Short +stakes may then be supplied so as to keep the trusses +upright. To secure extra fine blossoms the plants, +when well-established, should be watered two or three +times a week with liquid cow-manure to which a little +soot and guano has been added. During hot dry +summers especially, copious waterings should be given.</p> + + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_20" id="PLATE_20"></a>PLATE 20.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-20.jpg" width="350" height="517" alt="GALTONIA CANDICANS (78) +SISYRINCHIUM GRANDIFLORUM (79) BRODIÆA HOWELLI LILACINA (80)" title="GALTONIA CANDICANS (78) +SISYRINCHIUM GRANDIFLORUM (79) BRODIÆA HOWELLI LILACINA (80)" > +<span class="caption">GALTONIA CANDICANS (78) +SISYRINCHIUM GRANDIFLORUM (79) BRODIÆA HOWELLI LILACINA (80)</span> +</div> + +<p>When the flowers have faded, and the leaves begin +to turn yellow, the corms may be taken up and carefully +stored in a dry, airy, frost-proof place until the +following March. New plants may be raised from the +offsets, and also the spawn or cloves to be found at<span class="pagenum">[Pg 81] </span> +the base of the new corms. They should be detached +and stored, and the following April may be sown like +seeds in drills about two inches deep. The larger +corms may also be carefully cut in two at planting +time, the cut surfaces being dipped in powdered +charcoal, soot, or freshly-slaked lime.</p> + +<p>Where space will permit, the following natural +species of Gladioli may also be grown:—<i>G. blandus</i>, +1 to 2 feet high, white, with red markings and a yellow +tube; <i>G. byzantinus</i>, 2 feet, red, shaded with violet or +purple; <i>G. dracocephalus</i>, 1 to 2-1/2 feet, soft yellow, +striped and spotted with purple; <i>G. floribundus</i>, 1 foot, +has flowers varying from white to flesh colour and +deep red.</p> + +<p><i>G. oppositiflorus</i> has white flowers, washed with +rose or purple (<a href="#PLATE_23">Plate 23</a>, fig. 87); <i>G. psittacinus</i>, 3 feet, +rich scarlet, lined and spotted with yellow; <i>G. purpureo-auratus</i>, +3 to 4 feet, sulphur yellow, blotched +with purple; and <i>G. Saundersi</i>, 2 to 3 feet, crimson +or soft scarlet, spotted with pink and white. As they +are all natives of South Africa they should be planted +in warm sunny spots in March or April, and lifted the +following autumn when growth has ceased.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="HABRANTHUS" id="HABRANTHUS"></a><a href="#INDEX">HABRANTHUS</a> pratensis.</b>—A pretty Chilian +plant, with ovoid bulbs about 1-1/2 inches through, and +narrow leaves 1 to 1-1/2 feet long. The funnel-shaped,<span class="pagenum">[Pg 82] </span> +orange-red or scarlet blossoms appear in early summer +on stems 1 to 2 feet high. Rich sandy-loam and +leaf-soil, and warm sheltered spots are most suitable +for this plant. In bleak localities the bulbs must be +protected in winter. Increased by offsets.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="HYACINTHUS" id="HYACINTHUS"></a><a href="#INDEX">HYACINTHUS</a></b> (<i>Hyacinth</i>).—The florists' Hyacinth, +evolved from <i>H. orientalis</i>, has been for generations a +great garden favourite, and is still amongst the +most popular of bulbous plants for the decoration of +the out-door garden, or for growing in conservatories, +or the dwelling-house in more or less ornamental +receptacles. There is a good deal of difference in the +size of Hyacinth bulbs, but the reader must not +imagine that the largest bulbs will throw up the best +truss of flowers. Indeed it is often the case that +quite a small bulb comparatively, will give a finer +display than one much larger. Size, therefore, is not +the main point about Hyacinth bulbs. Weight or +density is the most important feature, and bulbs that are +in any way soft or flabby may be regarded as useless.</p> + +<p><b><a href="#INDEX">Hyacinths in the Open Air.</a></b>—What are known +as "Bedding Hyacinths," to be had in various +colours—red, rose, pink, white, blue, violet and +yellow—are generally grown out of doors. They +should be planted in October, or not later than +November, 5 to 6 inches deep, and 6 to 8 inches apart,<span class="pagenum">[Pg 83] </span> +care being taken when planting round, oval, oblong, +or other shaped beds to keep the lines or curves +equidistant so as to secure uniformity in the results. +The varieties should not be mixed when formal beds +are planted. In vacant spaces in the flower border, +however, mixed Hyacinths look very well. Although +these Hyacinths will grow well in ordinary good +garden soil that has been deeply dug, and contains some +well-decayed manure, it may be said that a light sandy +loam that has had some old cow-manure incorporated +with it some weeks previously is regarded as the best. +When the soil is naturally heavy it must be well +turned up, and have plenty of sand or grit mixed with it +as well as old manure. In such a soil, a further precaution +may be taken to have a handful of sand placed in +the hole under each bulb to further improve the drainage.</p> + +<p>Combinations with out-door Hyacinths are sometimes +made by covering the surface of the beds with +such plants as Forget-me-Nots, Polyanthuses or +Primroses, Silenes, White Arabis, Yellow Alyssum, +and sometimes Narcissi bulbs are planted alternately +with the Hyacinths, the object in all cases being to +produce a fine effect and contrast in colours in spring. +When the plants are in bloom they require but little +attention, except perhaps a slender stick here and +there to some flower-truss that has been blown down<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a> </span> +by the wind, or topples over with its own weight. As +soon as the blossoms have withered, the flower stems +should be cut away, leaving the still green leaves to +assimilate food until they begin to turn yellow. The +yellowing leaves indicate that the bulbs may be taken +up, dried, and cleaned, and stored away in cool airy +places until the following September or October. As +Hyacinths, however, deteriorate in our fickle climate, +it is better to buy new bulbs each year for planting +formal beds, while the old ones may be planted in +ordinary flower border or shrubbery.</p> + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_21" id="PLATE_21"></a>PLATE 21.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-21.jpg" width="350" height="523" alt="EARLY-FLOWERING GLADIOLI (81-83)" title="EARLY-FLOWERING GLADIOLI (81-83)" > +<span class="caption">EARLY-FLOWERING GLADIOLI (81-83)</span><br> +</div> + +<p><b><a name="Hyacinths_in_Glasses" id="Hyacinths_in_Glasses"></a><a href="#INDEX">Hyacinths in Glasses,</a> &c.</b>—Ornamental bowls, +glasses, vases, &c., of various designs afford an easy +and interesting means for growing Hyacinths in the +dwelling house. Many fail to have good results with +Hyacinths grown in these receptacles because they +allow the bulbs to touch the water, or they place them +in too high a temperature to begin with. The bulbs +should not actually touch the water, the base being +little more than 1/8-inch away from the surface. They +should then be stood in a dark place with a temperature +of about 40° to 45° F., until roots have developed +into the water. The plants may then be exposed to +more light, after which all that is necessary is to +change the water occasionally, about once a week, so +that the roots may secure a fresh supply of oxygen.<span class="pagenum">[Pg 85] </span> +The finest bulbs give the best results naturally when +grown in this way. What are known as "Miniature +Hyacinths" are suitable for growing in bowls, vases, +&c., in moist moss and charcoal, or in Jadoo fibre, or +even in coco-nut fibre. Indeed, Hyacinths generally +may be grown more easily, perhaps, in this way, instead +of in water, the only point to bear in mind being +to get the roots started in a cool place before the +flower-stem and leaves begin to grow.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="Hyacinths_in_Pots" id="Hyacinths_in_Pots"></a><a href="#INDEX">Hyacinths in Pots.</a></b>—For greenhouse and conservatory +decoration Hyacinths are most useful. One large +bulb or three smaller ones may be placed in a 5-inch +pot in light sandy soil, the top of the bulbs being well +above the surface. The pots should be placed in the +open air and covered with fine ashes or coco-nut fibre. +Roots soon develop, after which the bulbs may be +brought in as required, and can be had in blossom +long before those in the open ground begin to appear. +In warm greenhouses the graceful Roman and Italian +Hyacinths may be flowered in the same way.</p> + +<p>For a selection of Hyacinths of various colours +the reader will find it best to consult a good bulb +catalogue or a nurseryman. <a href="#PLATE_11">Plate 11</a> shows a few +varieties, but the size of the page renders it impossible +to show them in all their natural grandeur.</p> + +<p>Besides the florist's Hyacinths there are one or<span class="pagenum">[Pg 86] </span> +two natural species that are worth growing in the +rockery, flower border, or in the grass. These are the +Spanish Hyacinth (<i>H. amethystinus</i>), with bright blue +drooping blossoms, or white in the variety <i>albus</i>, in +May and June (see <a href="#PLATE_7">Plate 7</a>, fig. 30). The other is +<i>H. azureus</i>, which very much resembles one of the +Muscaris, and sends up its sky-blue drooping flowers +as early as February (see <a href="#PLATE_2">Plate 2</a>, fig. 10).</p> + +<p>Hyacinths may be increased by offsets. These +may be stored in dry sand until planting time in the +autumn, when they should be placed in beds by themselves, +and will reach the flowering stage, with care, +in two or three seasons. Full-sized bulbs are induced +to develop bulblets by cutting them cross-wise, about +half-way through from the base, or scooping the bottom +out into a hollow. The bulbs are placed to dry after +cutting, and by and bye the bulblets appear. They +may be detached and planted like the offsets.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="IRIS" id="IRIS"></a><a href="#INDEX">IRIS</a></b> (<i>Flag</i>).—As the various kinds of Irises, known +as "rhizomatous," "bearded," "beardless," and "oncocyclus +or cushion," have already been dealt with in +"<span class="smcap">A Practical Guide to Garden Plants</span>," and in the +companion volume to this, "<span class="smcap">Beautiful Garden +Flowers</span>," it is only necessary here to refer to the +"Bulbous" Irises, as coming appropriately within the +scope of this work. The best-known examples of<span class="pagenum">[Pg 87] </span> +Bulbous, or Xiphion Irises, as they are sometimes +called, are the Spanish Iris (<i>I. Xiphium</i>) and the +English Iris (<i>I. xiphioides</i>). Varieties of the last-named +are shown on Plate 14, while forms of the Spanish Iris +will be found in "<span class="smcap">Beautiful Garden Flowers</span>," Plate +20, and also in this work, Plate 15. Besides these +well-known examples of Bulbous Irises, there are many +others now well-known. They are, however, much +smaller in stature as a rule, more fragile, so utterly +distinct in appearance from the ordinary Flag Irises, +and so curiously and beautifully coloured, that many +amateurs liken them to orchids, although, perhaps, +they can scarcely be termed "<a name="Poor_Mens" id="Poor_Mens"></a><a href="#INDEX">Poor Men's</a>" Orchids +like their commoner relatives. On Plate 3, five species +of charming and early flowering Bulbous Irises are +shown, and a glance will show that no description could +do real justice to the charming beauty of the blossoms.</p> + +<p>The following comprise some of the best kinds of +Bulbous Irises:—<i>I. alata</i>, and its numerous varieties, +bright lilac-purple to white, October to December; +<i>I. Bakeriana</i> (<a href="#PLATE_3">fig. 12</a>), sky blue and white, blotched +with violet, January to March; <i>I. Boissieri</i>, reddish +purple, June; <i>I. caucasica</i>, pale yellow, February and +March; <i>I. Danfordiæ</i>, or (<i>Bornmüllieri</i>) golden yellow, +February (<a href="#PLATE_3">fig. 14</a>); <i>I. juncea</i>, golden-yellow, fragrant, +June and July; <i>I. Kolpakowskyana</i> (<a href="#PLATE_3">fig. 13</a>) +has<span class="pagenum">[Pg 88] </span> +reddish-purple and golden-yellow, with purple veins +in March; <i>I. orchioides</i> has very large bulbs and bright-yellow +flowers in March and April; <i>I. persica</i> (<a href="#PLATE_3">fig. 15</a>), +and its varieties, with light purple, lavender, lilac, +sea-green, and other shades of colour, and usually +distinctly spotted and sweet-scented during February +and March; <i>I. pumila</i>, lilac, purple, or deep violet, +April. <i>I. reticulata</i> has deep violet fragrant flowers in +February and March; there are very many distinct +varieties of it, such as <i>cyanea</i>, bright blue; <i>Histrio</i>, +blue, blotched with golden-yellow, December to March +(<a href="#PLATE_3">fig. 11</a>); <i>Histrioides</i>, bright blue tinted with violet; +<i>humilis</i>, rich red, purple, orange, and white; <i>Krelagei</i>, +claret purple and yellow; <i>purpurea</i>, reddish purple; +<i>sophenensis</i>, varying from reddish and bluish purple to +lilac and lavender; <i>I. Rosenbachiana</i>, variable in colour, +purple, yellow, and white to rich crimson and purple +blue, March and April; <i>I. sindjarensis</i> has sweet-scented +slaty-blue flowers; and <i>I. stenophylla</i> or +<i>Heldreichi</i>, mauve purple, February and March.</p> + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_22" id="PLATE_22"></a>PLATE 22.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-22.jpg" width="350" height="526" alt="CALOCHORTUS VENUSTUS (84) CALOCHORTUS ALBUS (85) +CALOCHORTUS PULCHELLUS (86)" title="CALOCHORTUS VENUSTUS (84) CALOCHORTUS ALBUS (85) +CALOCHORTUS PULCHELLUS (86)" > +<span class="caption">CALOCHORTUS VENUSTUS (84) CALOCHORTUS ALBUS (85) +CALOCHORTUS PULCHELLUS (86)</span> +</div> + +<p>The Spanish and English Irises flourish in ordinary +good and well-drained garden soil containing a fair +amount of sand or grit, and humus. The English +varieties on the whole require a somewhat moister +situation and rather heavier soil than the Spanish. +They flower profusely, and their many shades of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a> </span> +colour make the long-stalked blossoms great favourites +for decorative purposes. The different colours can be +had separately from the nurseryman or florist, but a +mixed collection will afford great pleasure to those +who do not wish to be burdened with the fancy +names given in catalogues.</p> + +<p>The smaller kinds of Bulbous Irises—like those +shown on <a href="#PLATE_3">Plate 3</a>—require to be treated a little more +carefully than the Spanish and English varieties. +Indeed many of the choicer and rarer varieties are +safer grown in pots of rich sandy soil in cold frames. +They flower early in the year, and, if exposed in the +open border or rock-garden, the blossoms would be +probably not only considerably disfigured, but the +cold rains and frosts might kill the bulbs. When +grown in the open air, warm sheltered spots should be +selected for them, and the soil should be a well-drained +sandy loam with a little leaf-soil. If the plants are +flourishing, they may be left in the same spot for +three or four seasons. After this it is better to lift +them when the leaves have withered, and then any +offsets may be detached to increase the stock. As +a rule the best time to plant bulbous Irises is in +September or October, but not later.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="IXIA" id="IXIA"></a><a href="#INDEX">IXIA</a></b> (<b>African Corn Lily</b>).--If the reader will turn +to Plate 1, he or she will at once admit that the Ixias<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a> </span> +are a charming class of bulbous plants. The picture +was prepared from specimens kindly supplied by +Messrs. Wallace & Co., of Colchester. There are +many other shades and combinations of colour besides +those represented, and happy would be the amateur +who succeeded in raising such lovely flowers in his +garden—either in the open air or under glass.</p> + +<p>The Ixias are natives of South Africa, and have +smooth or fibrous-coated, round and flattish corms, +about an inch in diameter. The sword-shaped leaves +are strongly veined, and the beautiful blossoms are +borne on stems 1 to 2 feet, during June and July. +Some of the best varieties are shown on Plate 1, and +attention is especially directed to the charming soft +sea-green flowers of <i>I. viridiflora</i>, having a dark +blotch in the centre. To these may be added the +deep-red or crimson-flowered <i>speciosa</i> or <i>crateroides</i>.</p> + +<p>It is a pity that such elegant flowers cannot be +grown in the open air in every part of the British +Islands. Unfortunately they are not hardy enough +for this, and consequently the best results out of doors +are only likely to be secured in the mildest parts of +the kingdom. The best time to plant is from September +to November. The corms should be about +3 inches beneath the surface of the soil. This should +be a light, sandy loam; if inclined to be heavy, it<span class="pagenum">[Pg 91] </span> +should be raised in small beds above the general level +to secure better drainage, and a little sand may be +placed round each corm, also with the same object in +view. In the event of cold rains and frosts in winter, +the bulbs should be protected with litter, bracken, &c., +to be removed at the end of February or March when +the leaves begin to appear.</p> + +<p>Where it is impossible to grow Ixias successfully +in the open air, they may be grown in pots in cold +frames or for the decoration of the greenhouse or +conservatory. The corms should be potted in September +or October, and kept under ashes or fibre in +the open until roots have developed, after which they +may be brought inside to develop. Ixias are best +increased by offsets.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="IXIOLIRION" id="IXIOLIRION"></a><a href="#INDEX">IXIOLIRION</a> montanum.</b>—This beautiful plant +(also known as <i>I. Pallasi</i> and <i>I. tataricum</i>) has long-necked +ovoid bulbs about an inch in diameter, and +tufts of grassy leaves. The charming lilac blossoms, +as shown on <a href="#PLATE_18">Plate 18</a>, fig. 73, are borne in early +summer in loose clusters on stems a foot or more high, +and are very useful in a cut state. There is a good +deal of variation in the colour, which has led to +different names being given from time to time.</p> + +<p><i>I. <a href="#INDEX">Kolpakowskyanum</a></i> is a rare and little known +species from Turkestan. It has much smaller bulbs<span class="pagenum">[Pg 92] </span> +than <i>montanum</i>, and the blue or whitish blossoms +appear somewhat earlier in the year.</p> + +<p>Ixiolirions may be grown successfully in the milder +parts of the kingdom in warm sheltered spots in +the flower-border or rock-garden. They should be +planted about 3 inches deep in September or October +in light sandy soil, and in cold localities should be +protected with litter, &c., in winter.</p><br> + +<p><a name="LAPEYROUSIA" id="LAPEYROUSIA"></a><a href="#INDEX"><b>LAPEYROUSIA</b></a> (<b><a name="Anomatheca" id="Anomatheca"></a>Anomatheca</b>) <b>cruenta.</b>—A pretty +South African plant, 6 to 12 inches high, with irregular +roundish corms about 2 inches in diameter, and +narrow sword-shaped leaves. The deep crimson or +blood-red blossoms, with a still deeper-coloured blotch +on each of the three inner segments, appear in late +summer in loose clusters on slender stalks, and are +very striking when seen in large masses. This species, +although perhaps a trifle hardier, may be grown in +the same way as the Ixias (see <a href="#Page_90">p. 90</a>). The corms, +however, being larger, should be planted about +6 inches deep, and new plants may be secured by +detaching the offsets when the leaves have withered.</p> + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_23" id="PLATE_23"></a>PLATE 23.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-23.jpg" width="350" height="518" alt="GLADIOLUS OPPOSITIFLORUS (87) LILIUM CANADENSE, +VARS. (88-89)" title="GLADIOLUS OPPOSITIFLORUS (87) LILIUM CANADENSE, +VARS. (88-89)" > +<span class="caption">GLADIOLUS OPPOSITIFLORUS (87) LILIUM CANADENSE, +VARS. (88-89)</span> +</div><br> + +<p><b><a name="LEUCOJUM" id="LEUCOJUM"></a><a href="#INDEX">LEUCOJUM</a></b> (<i>Snowflake</i>).—Beautiful plants closely +related to the Snowdrops, and somewhat resembling +them in bulbs, and leaves, and flowers. The Spring +Snowflake (<i>L. vernum</i>) is the first of the group to +produce its drooping sweet-scented blossoms in March<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a> </span> +and April. They are usually borne singly on a +slender stalk 6 to 12 inches high, and are white in +colour with more or less conspicuous green tips to the +petals, as shown in <a href="#PLATE_12">Plate 12</a>, fig. 47. The next best-known +kind is the Summer Snowflake—the paradoxical +name of <i>L. æstivum</i>. The pure white flowers, tipped +with green, appear in May and June, sometimes as +many as six being borne on a stem. <i>L. pulchellum</i> is +closely related to this species, but has narrower leaves, +and produces its smaller blossoms somewhat later. +The pretty little plants, formerly known as <a href="#INDEX"><i>Acis</i></a>, are +now included with the Leucojums. They all have +small white drooping blossoms on slender stems 6 to +12 inches high, those of <i>hyemalis</i> and <i>trichophylla</i>, +appearing in April, while those of <i>autumnalis</i> appear +in autumn.</p> + +<p>The Snowflakes flourish in rich sandy soil, and +appear to advantage in the rock-garden or in the +grass, where they may be massed in the same way as +Snowdrops, &c. Most of them are easily increased by +offsets.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="LILIUM" id="LILIUM"></a><a href="#INDEX">LILIUM</a></b> (<i>Lily</i>).—Of all the hardy bulbous plants +that may be grown in the open air in our climate, the +Lilies may be looked upon as the most noble. Not +only are many of them giants in stature among other +hardy bulbs, but there is nothing to equal their<span class="pagenum">[Pg 94] </span> +individual blossoms in size, or their general gracefulness +of appearance when borne collectively on the +leafy stems.</p> + +<p>They differ in another respect from other bulbous +plants described in this book, and that is in having +"scaly" bulbs as shown on <a href="#Page_12">page 12</a>. All the other +plants have either bulbs with several coats rolled +round each other (tunicated), or else they are solid, +when they are known as corms. But in the Lilies +neither of these two types appears. What are known +as the "scales" are fleshy leaves that have been +specially modified under the surface of the soil to act +as reservoirs or storehouses for the surplus food that +the green aërial leaves on the stems have elaborated +for them during the daytime.</p> + +<p>There are a large number of species of Lilium, +differing greatly in size and blossom, and it is therefore +only natural to expect the bulbs to vary a good +deal also. Indeed, there are very large and very +small bulbs, comparatively speaking, and they display +a good deal of difference in their vegetation, and in +producing offsets. For example, most kinds develop +new bulbs or offsets round the base of the older bulb, +while others, like <i>canadense</i>, <i>Grayi</i>, <i>pardalinum</i>, <i>Parryi</i>, +and <i>superbum</i>, develop their new bulbs along creeping +stems or rhizomes as shown in the sketch on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a> </span> +<a href="#Page_31">page 31</a>.</p> + +<p>Useful as the offsets are for the purpose of increasing +the stock, some kinds, notably <i>bulbiferum</i>, +<i>Browni</i>, <i>speciosum</i>, and <i>tigrinum</i>, often develop what +are called "bulbils" in the axils of the aërial leaves. +These bulbils are small bulb-like bodies, which, when +sown and covered with soil as if they were large +seeds, will develop into flowering bulbs in the course +of two or three years. The origin of these bulbils is +more fully dealt with at <a href="#Page_32">p. 32</a>.</p> + +<p>Besides these two fairly easy means of increasing +the stock of Lilies, many kinds may be also raised +from seeds, which at the end of three, six, or eight +years, will have produced bulbs large enough to throw +up flowering stems. Raising Lilies from seed is more +common now than it used to be, especially in America, +where some lovely hybrids have been raised, such as +<i>Burbanki</i>, <i>Dalhansoni</i>, <i>Marhan</i>, &c.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="Distribution_of_Lilies" id="Distribution_of_Lilies"></a><a href="#INDEX">Distribution of Lilies.</a></b>—As Liliums are distributed +throughout all parts of the north temperate +hemisphere—extending from California in the west, to +China and Japan in the east, across the continents of +North America, Europe, and Asia—they are therefore +found naturally growing in different soils, and +under various climatic conditions, in all degrees of +sunshine and shadow, drought and moisture. In the<span class="pagenum">[Pg 96] </span> +British flower garden they are, as a rule, best in +positions where they will be shaded from the hot mid-day +sun, as the flowers will last much longer than if +exposed too much. They should not, however, be +planted in deep shade under trees, or among their +roots, as the latter would absorb too much food and +moisture from the Lilies, while the overhanging boughs +would prevent the rain from reaching the bulbs in +sufficient quantity. During vigorous growth, Lilies +like plenty of water, but the soil must at the same +time be so well drained that it shall readily pass away +from the bulbs. ("<span class="smcap">A Practical Guide to Garden +Plants.</span>")</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="Time_and_Depth_of_Planting" id="Time_and_Depth_of_Planting"></a><a href="#INDEX">Time and Depth of Planting.</a></b>—If bulbs can be +secured early in autumn, say in September or October, +that would be the best time to plant Lilies. But very +often bulbs of certain kinds cannot be secured till +spring, so that planting must necessarily take place +then. The depth at which Lily bulbs are to be planted +depends greatly upon the size of the individual bulbs; +some kinds are planted about 6 inches deep, while +others require a depth of 9 or 10 inches. A safe +general rule to follow, is to cover the bulbs with about +twice their own depth of soil when planting in the +open air. If a piece of peat be placed beneath each +bulb at the time of planting, and a layer of sand about<span class="pagenum">[Pg 97] </span> +half-an-inch thick round them, they will root much +more freely. An exception to the general rule seems to +be <i>L. giganteum</i> (see <a href="#Page_100">p. 100</a>). When Liliums are hardy +enough to be left undisturbed for several seasons in +the same place, a good top-dressing or "mulching" of +well-decayed manure in autumn will be of great +advantage in replenishing the food for the roots.</p> + +<p>So far as culture is concerned, Liliums may be +arranged in three distinct groups as follows:—</p> +<br> +<p>I. <span class="smcap">Lilies that flourish in ordinary good garden +soil, or better still, in strong loam that has +been deeply dug and enriched with well-decayed +manure in advance.</span></p> + +<p><i><a name="Alexandrae" id="Alexandrae"></a><a href="#INDEX">Alexandræ</a></i>, 2 to 3 feet high, with pure white +flowers, 6 to 8 inches across in July and August.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Batemanniae" id="Batemanniae"></a><a href="#INDEX">Batemanniæ</a></i>, 3 to 5 feet high, flowers rich apricot, +4 to 5 inches across.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Bulbiferum" id="Bulbiferum"></a><a href="#INDEX">Bulbiferum</a></i>, 2 to 4 feet high, with erect crimson +flowers spotted with brown; May and June.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Candidum" id="Candidum"></a><a href="#INDEX">Candidum</a></i>, the well-known "Madonna Lily," +3 to 5 feet high, with sweet-scented pure-white +flowers, 3 to 4 inches across, and ten to thirty on +an erect truss in June. When subject to disease in +any locality, it is almost useless attempting to grow<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a> </span> +this Lily. (See <a href="#PLATE_16">Plate 16</a>, fig. 64).</p> + +<p><i><a name="Chalcedonicum" id="Chalcedonicum"></a><a href="#INDEX">Chalcedonicum</a></i>, a fine "Turk's Cap" Lily, 2 to 3 +feet high, with drooping bright scarlet flowers in +July and August; there are several varieties, including +<i>maculatum</i>, a spotted one.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Croceum" id="Croceum"></a>Croceum</i>, the "<a href="#INDEX">Orange</a> or Saffron Lily," with somewhat +cobwebby stems 3 to 6 feet high, and golden +orange, funnel-shaped flowers, spotted with purple at +the base; June and July. (See <a href="#PLATE_17">Plate 17</a>, fig. 67).</p> + +<p><i><a name="Dalhansoni" id="Dalhansoni"></a><a href="#INDEX">Dalhansoni</a></i>, a pretty hybrid between <i>dalmaticum</i> +and <i>Hansoni</i>, about 5 feet high, with dark brownish-purple +flowers in June and July.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Dauricum" id="Dauricum"></a>Dauricum</i> or <i><a href="#INDEX">davuricum</a></i> grows 2 to 3 feet high, +and has orange-scarlet flowers spotted with blackish-purple.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Henryi" id="Henryi"></a><a href="#INDEX">Henryi</a></i>, 3 to 6 feet high (sometimes much taller) +with jagged-surfaced orange-red flowers from July to +September.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Marhan" id="Marhan"></a><a href="#INDEX">Marhan</a></i>, a lovely hybrid between the white-flowered +<i>Martagon</i> and <i>Hansoni</i>. It grows 4 to 5 feet +high, and has clear orange-yellow flowers with red-brown +streaks and spots.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Pomponium" id="Pomponium"></a><a href="#INDEX">Pomponium</a></i>, a fine "Turk's Cap" species, 2 to 3 +feet high, with drooping, bright-red, orange-yellow, +flowers.</p> + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_24" id="PLATE_24"></a>PLATE 24.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-24.jpg" width="350" height="525" alt="LILIUM TIGRINUM (90) BRODIÆA BRIDGESI (91)" title="LILIUM TIGRINUM (90) BRODIÆA BRIDGESI (91)" > +<span class="caption">LILIUM TIGRINUM (90) BRODIÆA BRIDGESI (91)</span> +</div> + +<p><i><a name="Pyrenaicum" id="Pyrenaicum"></a><a href="#INDEX">Pyrenaicum</a></i> is closely related to <i>pomponium</i>, but is<span class="pagenum">[Pg 99] </span> +somewhat taller, and has bright-yellow flowers, blotched +with crimson at the base (see <a href="#PLATE_18">Plate 18</a>, fig. 71).</p> + +<p><i><a name="Rubellum" id="Rubellum"></a><a href="#INDEX">Rubellum</a></i>, a beautiful species about 2 feet high, +with bell-shaped rosy-pink flowers in June (see +<a href="#PLATE_26">Plate 26</a>, fig. 97).</p> + +<p><i><a name="Testaceum" id="Testaceum"></a><a href="#INDEX">Testaceum</a></i> (or <i>excelsum</i>), a fine Lily, 5 to 6 feet high, +with somewhat drooping, soft, buff-yellow or apricot-coloured +flowers, dotted with orange-red.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Umbellatum" id="Umbellatum"></a><a href="#INDEX">Umbellatum.</a></i> A number of Lilies are grouped under +this name, being apparently hybrid varieties between +<i>croceum</i>, <i>davuricum</i>, and <i>elegans</i>. The prevailing colours +are orange, orange-red, and apricot, with darkly-spotted +and unspotted forms.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Washingtonianum" id="Washingtonianum"></a><a href="#INDEX">Washingtonianum</a></i> grows 3 to 6 feet high, and has +sweet-scented, drooping, funnel-shaped flowers of a +pure white tinged with lilac or purple. The soil +should be particularly well-drained for this Californian +Lily.</p> +<br> +<p>II. <span class="smcap">Lilies that flourish in sandy loam, peat, and +leaf-soil.</span></p> + +<p><i><a name="Auratum" id="Auratum"></a><a href="#INDEX">Auratum</a></i>, a well-known Lily, 2 to 6 feet high, with +ivory-white flowers, often 9 to 12 inches across, with +a conspicuous yellow band down the centre, and deep +purple blotches all over the inner surface. There are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a> </span> +several varieties, some poor, some excellent, amongst +the latter being <i>platyphyllum</i> with very large heavily-spotted +flowers. There is a white unspotted form of +this called <i>virginale</i>, closely related to which is <i>Wittei</i>, +the flowers of which, however, are stained with yellow +down the centre.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Browni" id="Browni"></a><a href="#INDEX">Browni</a></i>, 2 to 4 feet high, with bell-shaped flowers, +pure white with a central purple line.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Concolor" id="Concolor"></a><a href="#INDEX">Concolor</a></i>, grows 1 to 3 feet high, and has bright +scarlet flowers. There are several varieties, such as +<i>Buschianum</i> and the dwarf <i>pulchellum</i>, scarlet, spotted +with black; <i>Coridion</i>, bright yellow, spotted with red; +<i>Partheneion</i>, orange-yellow, faintly spotted; and <i>luteum</i>, +yellow, spotted with purple-red.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Elegans" id="Elegans"></a><a href="#INDEX">Elegans</a></i> (or <i>Thunbergianum</i>), 1 to 2 feet high, with +erect cup-shaped scarlet flowers, slightly spotted with +purple at the base.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Giganteum" id="Giganteum"></a><a href="#INDEX">Giganteum</a></i>, a gigantic Himalayan Lily, with stems +from 6 to 10, and sometimes 14 feet high, furnished +with large heart-shaped oval leaves. The flower stem +is 1 to 2 feet long and has drooping funnel-shaped +blossoms of a greenish-white, suffused with violet-purple +in the throat. Unlike other Liliums, the large +conical bulbs of this species are not buried deeply in +the soil. They are sunk in the soil about one-third of +their depth, and are usually planted in April or May.<span class="pagenum">[Pg 101] </span> +In the event of spring frosts, the bulbs should be protected +with dry leaves or litter.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Hansoni" id="Hansoni"></a><a href="#INDEX">Hansoni</a></i>, 3 to 4 feet high, flowers drooping, bright +orange yellow, and heavily spotted with dark purple-brown +(see <a href="#PLATE_25">Plate 25</a>, fig. 93).</p> + +<p><i><a name="Humboldti" id="Humboldti"></a><a href="#INDEX">Humboldti</a></i> (or <i>Bloomerianum</i>), 4 to 8 feet high, +flowers orange-yellow, drooping, spotted with purple +at the base; more conspicuous in the variety <i>ocellatum</i>, +the yellow blossoms of which are tipped with crimson +or purple.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Japonicum" id="Japonicum"></a><a href="#INDEX">Japonicum</a></i>, 1 to 3 feet high, with sweet-scented +pure white flowers faintly tinged with purple outside.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Kewense" id="Kewense"></a><a href="#INDEX">Kewense</a></i>, a beautiful hybrid between <i>Henryi</i> and +a variety of <i>Browni</i>; it grows about 6 feet high, and +has buff-coloured flowers about 8 inches across, +fading off to creamy white at the tips.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Krameri" id="Krameri"></a><a href="#INDEX">Krameri</a></i> is like <i>japonicum</i>, but taller, and with +pink flowers.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Leichtlini" id="Leichtlini"></a><a href="#INDEX">Leichtlini</a></i>, 3 to 4 feet high, with drooping citron-yellow +flowers heavily spotted with purple.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Longiflorum" id="Longiflorum"></a><a href="#INDEX">Longiflorum</a></i>, a very handsome Lily, 2 to 3 feet +high, with large tubular pure white flowers. There +are many so-called varieties of this species, including +<i>Harrisi</i>, <i>eximium</i>, and <i>Takesima</i>—all very popular for +forcing in pots for greenhouses (see <a href="#PLATE_25">Plate 25</a>, fig. 94).</p> + +<p><a name="Martagon" id="Martagon"></a><a href="#INDEX"><i>Martagon</i></a>, the "Turk's Cap," Lily, 2 to 3 feet<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a> </span> +high, with many tiers of drooping purple-red or +violet-rose flowers, spotted with carmine, but white +in the tall growing variety <i>album</i> (see <a href="#PLATE_26">Plate 26</a>, +fig. 95).</p> + +<p><i><a name="Monadelphum" id="Monadelphum"></a><a href="#INDEX">Monadelphum</a></i> (or <i>Loddigesianum</i>) is a vigorous +Lily, 3 to 5 feet high, with soft bright yellow flowers, +which in the variety <i>Szovitsianum</i> (or <i>colchicum</i>) are +spotted with blackish-purple (see <a href="#PLATE_26">Plate 26</a>, fig. 98).</p> + +<p><i><a name="Pardalinum" id="Pardalinum"></a><a href="#INDEX">Pardalinum</a></i>, known as the "Leopard Lily," grows +3 to 8 feet high, and has drooping orange-red flowers +spotted with dark purple at the base. There are +several varieties, some being more highly coloured +and spotted than others.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Roezli" id="Roezli"></a><a href="#INDEX">Roezli</a></i>, 2 to 3 feet high, with dark blotched orange-red +flowers.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Speciosum" id="Speciosum"></a><a href="#INDEX">Speciosum</a></i>, also well-known as <i>lancifolium</i>, grows +2 to 3 feet high, and has white flowers suffused with +rose, the lower portion of the segments being deeper +in colour, and covered with papillæ. There are many +varieties such as <i>album</i>, white; <i>Krätzeri</i>, white +tinged with green down the centre; <i>Melpomene</i>, deep +crimson-purple, &c.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Tenuifolium" id="Tenuifolium"></a><a href="#INDEX">Tenuifolium</a></i>, so called from its grass-like leaves, +grows 1 to 2 feet high, and has small drooping scarlet +blossoms (see <a href="#PLATE_25">Plate 25</a>, fig. 92).</p> + +<p><i><a name="Tigrinum" id="Tigrinum"></a><a href="#INDEX">Tigrinum</a></i>, the "Tiger Lily," with woolly stems<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a> </span> +2 to 4 feet high, and deep orange-red flowers +heavily spotted with blackish-purple. (See <a href="#PLATE_24">Plate 24</a>, +fig. 90.)</p> +<br> +<p><a href="#INDEX">III.</a> <span class="smcap">Lilies that flourish in very moist but well-drained +sandy loam, peat, and leaf-soil. +They are excellent for planting in shady +borders, under north walls, or by the side +of ponds</span>, &c. + +<p><i><a name="Burbank" id="Burbank"></a><a href="#INDEX">Burbanki</a></i>, a fine hybrid between <i>pardalinum</i> and +<i>Parryi</i>. Flowers, pale orange-yellow, spotted with +chocolate and flushed with crimson at the tips. +A single stem often has as many as twenty or thirty +blooms upon it.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Canadense" id="Canadense"></a><a href="#INDEX">Canadense</a></i>, a rhizomatous "Turk's Cap" Lily, +2 to 4 feet high, with drooping funnel-shaped flowers +varying in colour from bright orange-red to pale red, +the upper portion of the segments being heavily +spotted with purple-brown. (See Plate 23, figs. 88 +and 89.) There are several forms such as <i>rubrum</i>, +<i>flavum</i>, <i>parvum</i>, &c.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Catesbae" id="Catesbae"></a><a href="#INDEX">Catesbæi</a></i>, an elegant species, 1 to 2 feet high, +having erect bell-shaped flowers of a bright orange-red +heavily spotted with purple.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Cordifolium" id="Cordifolium"></a><a href="#INDEX">Cordifolium</a></i>, a very distinct-looking Lily, 3 to 4<span class="pagenum">[Pg 104] </span> +feet high, having broadly heart-shaped ovate leaves, +and tubular white flowers with violet-brown spots at +the base.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Grayi" id="Grayi"></a><a href="#INDEX">Grayi</a></i> is closely related to <i>canadense</i>, but has deep +crimson flowers heavily blotched with purple at the +yellowish base.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Maritimum" id="Maritimum"></a><a href="#INDEX">Maritimum</a></i> is a pretty Lily, 3 to 5 feet high, with +small deep red bell-shaped flowers spotted with dark +purple.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Parryi" id="Parryi"></a><a href="#INDEX">Parryi</a></i> is another rhizomatous Lily, 2 to 6 +feet high. The more or less drooping flowers are +citron-yellow, spotted with purple-brown, and are +sweetly fragrant.</p> + +<p><i><a name="Superbum" id="Superbum"></a><a href="#INDEX">Superbum</a></i> is known as the "Swamp Lily" of +North America. It has creeping rhizomes which +produce bulbs at intervals, and the violet-purple +stems grow 4 to 10 feet high. The drooping +orange-red flowers, sometimes as many as twenty to +forty on a stem, are heavily spotted with violet-purple. +The variety <i>carolinianum</i> (also known as +<i>autumnale</i> and <i>Michauxianum</i>) has flowers like those +of the type, but the plants only grow about 2 +feet high.</p> + + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_25" id="PLATE_25"></a>PLATE 25.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-25.jpg" width="350" height="526" alt="LILIUM TENUIFOLIUM (92) LILIUM HANSONI (93) +LILIUM LONGIFLORUM (94)" title="LILIUM TENUIFOLIUM (92) LILIUM HANSONI (93) +LILIUM LONGIFLORUM (94)" > +<span class="caption">LILIUM TENUIFOLIUM (92) LILIUM HANSONI (93) +LILIUM LONGIFLORUM (94)</span> +</div> + +<p>Most of the Lilies described in these three sections +may be grown in beds by themselves on the grass, or +they may be planted in clumps in borders or shrubberies<span class="pagenum">[Pg 105] </span> +where they will have plenty of space and +enough sunshine to enable them to develop fully. +The peat-loving kinds—those in the second and third +sections—are excellent for planting amongst such +plants as Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Kalmias, and other +peat-loving shrubs.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="LYCORIS" id="LYCORIS"></a><a href="#INDEX">LYCORIS</a> squamigera.</b>—This distinct Japanese +plant is closely related to the Belladonna Lily +(see <a href="#Page_51">p. 51</a>). It has rather long-necked roundish bulbs, +2 to 3 inches in diameter, and strap-shaped leaves about +a foot long. From July to September, after the leaves +have withered, the large sweet-scented rosy-lilac +flowers (see <a href="#PLATE_32">Plate 32</a>, fig. 116) are borne on a stout stalk +2 to 3 feet high. This plant may be grown out of +doors in the milder parts of the kingdom in warm +sheltered spots, such as against a well on a south +border. It likes rich well-drained sandy loam and +leaf-soil, but grows freely in ordinary good garden +soil. There are other species that may probably succeed +in the open air in the same way, such as +<i>aurea</i>, golden-yellow; <i>straminea</i>, pale yellow with +a pink central line and red dots; and <i>radiata</i>, bright +red.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="MERENDERA" id="MERENDERA"></a><a href="#INDEX">MERENDERA</a> Bulbocodium.</b>—A pretty Pyrenean +plant closely related to <i>Bulbocodium vernum</i>. It grows +only 3 or 4 inches high, and produces its rosy-lilac<span class="pagenum">[Pg 106] </span> +funnel-shaped flowers in autumn at the same time as +some of the true Colchicums. The narrow sickle-shaped +leaves appear after the flowers are over and +remain fresh and green till spring. There are a few +other species, but they are practically unknown in +gardens. The Merendera may be grown exactly +in the same way as the Colchicums, in the border, +rock-garden, or best of all in the grass. The stock +may be increased by offsets and seeds.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="MILLA" id="MILLA"></a><a href="#INDEX">MILLA</a> biflora.</b>—There is now only one Milla, the +plants formerly known under that name being now +included in the genus Brodiæa (see <a href="#Page_56">p. 56</a>). <i>M. biflora</i> +has rather small bulbs with fleshy roots and narrow, +grass-like, blue-green leaves. The pretty pure white +salver-shaped blossoms appear in August and September +usually two to four on stems about 6 inches +high. Being a native of Mexico, <i>M. biflora</i> should be +grown in warm sheltered spots in the rock-garden or +border, in a rich sandy loam, the bulbs being planted +about 4 inches deep. Increased by offsets.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="MUSCARI" id="MUSCARI"></a><a href="#INDEX">MUSCARI</a></b> (<i>Grape Hyacinth</i>).—A charming class of +plants with roundish bulbs about 1 inch in diameter, +narrow leaves, and conical clusters of urn-shaped or +tubular blossoms drooping from stems 3 to 6 inches +high. Although the Grape Hyacinths may be easily +grown in patches or edgings in the ordinary flower<span class="pagenum">[Pg 107] </span> +border, there is no place that shows off their +sheets of brilliant blue blossoms so well as a +grassy bank, or a nook in the rockery, where they +should be planted in large numbers. They naturally +like a rich and well drained soil with plenty of grit +or sand in it, and some leaf-soil. The bulbs should +be planted about 3 inches deep in September and +October, and when naturalised in the grass may be +left for several seasons without being disturbed. +Most of the kinds blossom in March, April, and May, +and are easily increased by offsets. Seeds may also +be sown (see <a href="#Page_36">p. 36</a>).</p> + +<p>The following is a selection of the best kinds. The +flowers are blue in all cases, except where otherwise +mentioned, and the general appearance of the blossoms +is as shown by <i>M. conicum</i> in <a href="#PLATE_12">Plate 12</a>, fig. 48:—<i>Armeniacum</i>; +<i>botryoides</i>, with a white-flowered variety +<i>album</i>; <i>comosum</i>, the monstrous form of which, with +twisted and wavy bluish-violet filaments, is known as +the <a name="Ostrich_Feather" id="Ostrich_Feather"></a><a href="#INDEX">Ostrich Feather</a> Hyacinth; <i>conicum</i> (see <a href="#PLATE_12">Plate 12</a>, +fig. 48), of which there is a beautiful brilliant blue +variety called "Heavenly Blue." <i>Heldreichi</i>, like +<i>botryoides</i>, but larger; <i>Maweanum</i>; <i>neglectum</i>; <i>racemosum</i>; +<i>amphibolus</i> porcelain blue; and <i>Szovitsianum</i>.</p> + +<p>There are other colours besides blue among the +Grape Hyacinths. Thus the "<a href="#INDEX">Musk Hyacinth</a>" (<i>M.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a> </span> +moschatum</i>) has sweet-scented blossoms which change +from purple at first to greenish-yellow tinged with +violet. It has a yellow flowered variety called <i>flavum</i> +or <i>macrocarpum</i>. Some forms of <i>neglectum</i> are salmon-pink, +while the blossoms of <i>M. paradoxum</i> might be +described almost as black.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="NARCISSUS" id="NARCISSUS"></a><a href="#INDEX">NARCISSUS</a></b> (<i>Daffodil</i>).—What so charming in the +spring-time as "a host of Golden Daffodils"? The +varieties are now almost legion, and they are still +being added to by enthusiastic hybridists in various +parts of the kingdom. The crossing of one section with +another may possibly worry the botanist, but there is +no fear that the gardener will not welcome any new +variety that may be raised. Although thousands of +the older Daffodils may be bought for a few shillings, +the rarer varieties still command a respectably high +price, and will naturally continue to do so until the +stock has been considerably increased.</p> + +<p>There is scarcely a nook in the garden, large or +small, where Daffodils cannot be grown. And yet it +is astonishing to note their general absence from +suburban gardens, where they would not only grow +freely, but also make a cheerful picture in the spring-time.</p> + + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_26" id="PLATE_26"></a>PLATE 26.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-26.jpg" width="350" height="523" alt="LILIUM MARTAGON ALBUM (95) WATSONIA ARDERNEI (96) +LILIUM RUBELLUM (97) LILIUM COLCHICUM (98)" title="LILIUM MARTAGON ALBUM (95) WATSONIA ARDERNEI (96) +LILIUM RUBELLUM (97) LILIUM COLCHICUM (98)" > +<span class="caption">LILIUM MARTAGON ALBUM (95) WATSONIA ARDERNEI (96) +LILIUM RUBELLUM (97) LILIUM COLCHICUM (98)</span> +</div> + +<p>Daffodils—with the exception, perhaps, of a very +few varieties—require as little attention, and even<span class="pagenum">[Pg 109] </span> +less than Snowdrops or Crocuses. Once planted they +may be left undisturbed for years, and as each season +comes round they gaily shoot their blue-green strap-shaped +leaves and creamy or golden blossoms through +the ground.</p> + +<p>They grow in almost any soil, but prefer a rather +stiff and well-drained loam. They are appropriate +in any situation in the flower border or rockery. +But their natural position is undoubtedly in the +grass, or—</p> + +<div class="poem">"Beside the lake, beneath the trees,</div> +<div class="poem">Fluttering and dancing in the breeze,"</div> + + +<p>As Wordsworth has it.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="When_to_Plant" id="When_to_Plant"></a><a href="#INDEX">When to Plant.</a></b>—The best time to plant Daffodil +bulbs is from the end of August to November. As +there is a great difference in the size of the bulbs, +according to the variety, the depth of planting should +vary accordingly. Thus bulbs 1 to 2 inches deep +from top of neck to base should be planted quite +3 or 4 inches deep, while larger ones will be planted +4 to 6 inches deep in proportion, and about the +same distance apart, except, of course, when they are +used between other plants like Tulips, Wallflowers, +Polyanthuses, &c., for a combination display in spring.</p> + +<p>Most of the Daffodils are valuable for cutting and<span class="pagenum">[Pg 110] </span> +decorative purposes generally when in season, and +when one has the convenience of a greenhouse—cold +or otherwise—the flowering period can be extended +from Christmas onwards.</p> + +<p>Daffodils are most easily increased by the offsets +from the old bulbs. These may be lifted in early +summer, when the leaves have begun to turn yellow. +Seeds may also be sown when ripe (see <a href="#Page_36">page 36</a>), +but to secure them the plants must be left much +longer in the ground, so as to mature them.</p> + +<p>Nearly all kinds of Daffodils—especially those +having only one flower on a stem—may be grown in +the open air. There are hundreds of varieties to +choose from, but the uninitiated may start with such +kinds as the beautiful white and flat-flowered "Poet's +Narcissus" (<i><a name="N_poeticus" id="N_poeticus"></a><a href="#INDEX">N. poeticus</a></i>), which is also called the +"Pheasant's Eye" Narcissus, because of the crimson +and orange circles round the rim of the flat saucer-like +"corona" in the centre (see <a href="#PLATE_7">Plate 7</a>, fig. 29). +There are several varieties of the Poet's Narcissus, +one of the best for ordinary purposes being <i>ornatus</i>. +Where the soil is particularly rich and well-drained +the double-flowered variety, called the "Gardenia" +Narcissus, owing to the shape of its beautiful white +blossoms (see <a href="#PLATE_7">Plate 7</a>, fig. 28), may be grown. Unfortunately<span class="pagenum">[Pg 111] </span> +this variety often comes "blind," that is, +the blossoms remain undeveloped in the papery sheath +on top of the stem. To check this the bulbs are best +lifted and transplanted early to fresh soil. Another +popular and easily-grown Daffodil is the common +Double Yellow one known as <i>Telamonius plenus</i> or +<i>Van Sion</i>. It is a form of the <a name="Tenby" id="Tenby"></a>Tenby Daffodil (<i>N. obvallaris</i>) +which is a single form with beautiful yellow +flowers, having a large "trumpet" or corona in the +centre. Closely related to this is the Great Spanish +Daffodil (<i>N. major</i>) which has large bright lemon-yellow +flowers, which are still larger and of richer +yellow in the variety <i>maximus</i>.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="Ajax_Daffodils" id="Ajax_Daffodils"></a><a href="#INDEX">"Ajax"</a> Daffodils.</b>—To these may be added the +numerous forms, of which the common Lent Lily +(also called "Ajax" or "Trumpet Daffodil") is the +type, and which has pale sulphur-yellow blossoms +with a lemon-yellow "trumpet." Some of the finest +Daffodils, with large spreading flowers and correspondingly +large and deep trumpets, belong to this +section, among which may be mentioned <i>Ard Righ</i> +or <i>Yellow King</i>, <i>C. W. Cowan</i>, <i>Colleen Bawn</i>, <i>Emperor</i>, +<i>Glory of Leiden</i>, <i>Golden Spur</i>, <i>Henry Irving</i>, <i>Hudibras</i>, +<i>John Nelson</i>, <i>Madame de Graaff</i> (see <a href="#PLATE_4">Plate 4</a>, fig. 17), +<i>Monarch</i>, <i>W. Goldring</i>, &c. All these have single +flowers varying in colour from almost pure white (as<span class="pagenum">[Pg 112] </span> +in <i>C. W. Cowan</i>, <i>Colleen Bawn</i>, and <i>Madame de Graaff</i>) +to deep golden-yellow in many of the other varieties. +There are a few double-flowered forms of the "Lent +Lily," the best known being <i>Capax</i>, lemon-yellow; +<i>grandiplenus</i>, deep yellow, <i>plenissimus</i>, and the Old +Double Lent Lily grown in Gerarde's garden over +300 years ago.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="Bicolor_Daffodils" id="Bicolor_Daffodils"></a><a href="#INDEX">"Bicolor"</a> Daffodils.</b>—Another very fine group of +Trumpet Daffodils are those known as "bicolors," +so called because the spreading segments are one +colour (generally white or creamy), while the trumpet +is another colour (usually some shade of soft or deep +yellow). Amongst the most popular forms in this +group may be mentioned <i>Ellen Willmott</i> (see <a href="#PLATE_4">Plate 4</a>, +fig. 16), <i>Empress, Grandee</i>, <i>Horsfieldi</i> (see <a href="#PLATE_4">Plate 4</a>, +fig. 18), <i>Mrs. J. B. M. Camm</i>, <i>Mrs. Morland Crossfield,</i> +<i>Mrs. Walter T. Ware</i>, <i>Princeps</i> or <i>Irish Giant, Victoria,</i> +and <i>Weardale Perfection</i> (see <a href="#PLATE_6">Plate 6</a>, fig. 26).</p><br> + +<p>The "<b><a name="Star_Daffodils" id="Star_Daffodils"></a><a href="#INDEX">Star Daffodils</a></b>" (<i>N. incomparabilis</i>) have +spreading starry petals, and a cup or chalice-like +corona or trumpet in the centre. They are a very +free growing group, the commoner kinds of which +(such as <i>Autocrat</i>, <i>Cynosure</i>, <i>Stella</i>) may be naturalised +in thousands in the grass, where they may be seen at +"a glance tossing their heads in sprightly dance." +Some other very fine forms are <i>C. J. Backhouse</i>,<span class="pagenum">[Pg 113] </span> +<i>Frank Miles</i>, <i>Geo. Nicholson</i>, <i>Gloria Mundi</i> (see <a href="#PLATE_5">Plate +5</a>, fig. 21), <i>Lulworth</i> (see <a href="#PLATE_6">Plate 6</a>, fig. 27), <i>Mary +Anderson</i>, <i>Sir Watkin</i> (see <a href="#PLATE_5">Plate 5</a>, fig. 23), and +<i>Princess Mary of Cambridge</i> (see <a href="#PLATE_5">Plate 5</a>, fig. 21), &c., +but there are many others. There are also several +double varieties of Star Daffodils, the most common +being "<a name="Butter_and_Eggs" id="Butter_and_Eggs"></a><a href="#INDEX">Butter and Eggs,</a>" <i>Orange Phoenix</i> (or <i>Eggs and +Bacon</i>) and <i>Sulphur Phoenix</i> (or <i><a name="Codlins_and_Cream" id="Codlins_and_Cream"></a>Codlins and Cream</i>).</p> + +<p>There are many other kinds of Daffodils which +have only one flower on a stem, many of them being +natural or artificial hybrids. Space will not permit +detailed descriptions, but the following may be looked +upon as the best:—<i>Backhousei</i>, <i>Barri</i> (with several +forms), <i>Bernardi</i>, <i>Burbidgei</i>, (with several forms), +<i>gracilis</i>, <i>Humei</i>, <i>intermedius</i>, <i>Johnstoni</i> (with several +forms), <i>Leedsi</i> (with several fine forms), <i>Macleayi</i>, +<i>moschatus</i> (with several forms, the best being <i>cernuus</i>), +<i>muticus</i>, and <i>Nelsoni</i> (with several forms).</p> + +<p>In the foregoing sections the blossoms are all +of a fairly large size, and borne on stalks a foot +or more high. There is, however a charming +group in which the blossoms are in most cases comparatively +small and the flower stalks short. These +kinds are valuable for planting in bold masses +in partially shaded places in the rockery, or in short +grass.</p> + +<p><i>N. cyclamineus</i> is a charming little Daffodil. It<span class="pagenum">[Pg 114] </span> +belongs to the Lent Lily group botanically. The +blossoms, however, are much smaller; the segments +being lemon-yellow, and abruptly turned back upon +the stalk from the orange-yellow cylindrical "trumpet." +(See <a href="#PLATE_5">Plate 5</a>, fig. 19.)</p> + +<p><i>N. minor</i> is another miniature form of Lent Lily, +with gracefully-twisted sulphur-yellow segments surrounding +a deeper yellow spreading "trumpet." The +variety <i>minimus</i> is smaller still, with rich yellow +flowers, while <i>plenus</i> (or <i>Rip Van Winkle</i>) is a double +variety.</p> + +<p>One kind that differs conspicuously from all others +is the "<a name="Hooped_Petticoat" id="Hooped_Petticoat"></a><a href="#INDEX">Hooped Petticoat</a>" or "Medusa Trumpet" +Daffodil (<i>N. Bulbocodium</i>), at one time considered a +distinct genus (<i><a name="Corbularia" id="Corbularia"></a><a href="#INDEX">Corbularia</a></i>). It is a charming species, +having bright-yellow flowers, the chief characteristic +of which is the cone-like or broadly funnel-shaped +trumpet. There are several varieties, such as <i>citrinus</i> +(lemon-yellow), <i>conspicuus</i> (golden-yellow), <i>Graellsi</i> +(primrose-yellow), <i>monophyllus</i> (snow-white, leaves +solitary), <i>nivalis</i>, (orange-yellow).</p> + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_27" id="PLATE_27"></a>PLATE 27.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-27.jpg" width="350" height="522" alt="WATSONIA MERIANA (99) WATSONIA ALBA (100) +WATSONIA ANGUSTA (101) MONTBRETIA CROCOSMIÆFLORA (102)" title="WATSONIA MERIANA (99) WATSONIA ALBA (100) +WATSONIA ANGUSTA (101) MONTBRETIA CROCOSMIÆFLORA (102)" > +<span class="caption">WATSONIA MERIANA (99) WATSONIA ALBA (100) +WATSONIA ANGUSTA (101) MONTBRETIA CROCOSMIÆFLORA (102)</span> +</div><br> + +<p><b><a name="Polyanthus" id="Polyanthus"></a><a href="#INDEX">Polyanthus</a> or Tazetta Narcissus.</b>—Passing from the +Daffodils with solitary flowers on a stalk, we come to +a small group in which several blossoms adorn the top +of the stem. The most important of these is perhaps +the Polyanthus or Bunch Narcissus (<i>N. Tazetta</i>) which<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a> </span> +was well-known to the old Greek and Roman poets, +although in a wild state it is met with eastwards across +Europe and Asia, to China and Japan. The typical +<i>N. Tazetta</i> has 4 to 8 flowers on top of the stem, the +spreading segments being pure white and the cup-shaped +corona lemon-yellow. There are many varieties, +and although the individual blossoms are not +very large, they are sometimes produced in much +larger numbers than the type. The best-known +varieties are the <i>Scilly White</i>, <i>Grand Soleil d'or</i>, <i>Grand +Monarque</i> (Plate 6, figs. 24 and 25), and the <i>Paper +White</i>—all largely grown in the open air in the +Scilly Isles—but rather too tender for out-door +cultivation in less favoured parts of the kingdom.</p> + +<p>Of late years, a Chinese form (really only <i>N. +Tazetta</i>) called the "<a href="#INDEX">Sacred Lily</a>" or "<a href="#INDEX">Joss Flower</a>," +has attracted attention, and has been recommended +for growing in ornamental bowls, &c., in drawing-rooms, +in a compost (if it can be called such) of pebbles +and clean water. The common mistake made in +growing the Joss Lily in this way is that the plants +do not get sufficient light in ordinary rooms, and consequently +both leaves and stems are too weak to stand +erect.</p> + +<p>Other Daffodils with several flowers on a stalk are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a> </span> +the Sweet-Scented Jonquil (<i><a href="#INDEX">N. Jonquilla</a></i>), easily +recognised by its roundish leaves and rich yellow +flowers with a cup-shaped corona. There are several +varieties including a double one known as "Queen +Anne's Jonquil." The Rush-leaved Jonquil (<i>N. juncifolius</i>) +with roundish rush-like leaves is closely +related, its bright yellow blossoms being distinguished +from those of the Jonquil by being fewer and having +broader ovate segments.</p> + +<p><i>N. triandrus</i>, popularly called "<a href="#INDEX">Ganymede's Cup,</a>" +is a charming little species with 1 to 6 pure-white +flowers in which the segments are bent back from the +cup-shaped corona. There are several varieties, +including a lovely white one (<i>albus</i>) called "<a name="Angels_Tears" id="Angels_Tears"></a><a href="#INDEX">Angel's +Tears,</a>" shown on <a href="#PLATE_5">Plate 5</a>, fig. 20. <i>Concolor</i>, pale +yellow; <i>calathinus</i>, white or sulphur-yellow; <i>pallidulus</i>, +primrose-yellow; while <i>pulchellus</i> has primrose-yellow +segments and a white corona.</p> + +<p>The bulbs of <i>N. triandrus</i> and its varieties being +rather small—half to three-quarters of an inch in +diameter—the spots where they are planted should be +marked, otherwise they are apt to get lost or destroyed. +Until the stock is large they are probably safer grown +in pots in cold frames.</p> + +<p>As new varieties and hybrids are being added each +year, the reader who wishes to grow novelties is<span class="pagenum">[Pg 117] </span> +advised to consult the bulb catalogues of such firms as +Messrs. Barr & Sons, Covent Garden; Messrs. Ware, +Feltham; Mr. Hartland, of Cork; Mr. Perry, Winchmore +Hill, &c.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="NOTHOSCORDUM" id="NOTHOSCORDUM"></a><a href="#INDEX">NOTHOSCORDUM</a> fragrans.</b>—A sturdy North +American plant, 1 to 2 feet high, with roundish oblong +bulbs, having thick fleshy roots. It is closely related +to the Alliums, as may be seen by its umbels of white +starry flowers, the segments of which are keeled with +lilac on the outside.</p> + +<p>This species grows in ordinary good garden soil of +a gritty nature, and is easily increased by offsets.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="ORNITHOGALUM" id="ORNITHOGALUM"></a><a href="#INDEX">ORNITHOGALUM</a></b> (<i>Star of Bethlehem</i>).—Although +a large genus, only a few species are considered worth +growing, except in botanical collections. The best +known representative of the group is probably the +Common Star of Bethlehem (<i>O. umbellatum</i>), which is +now naturalised in copses and meadows in some parts +of England, and may be utilised in the same way in +large gardens with an abundance of grass-land. The +clusters of pure-white starry blossoms appear in May +and June, on stalks about 1 foot high, and are keeled +with green behind. Very similar in appearance are +the flowers of <i>O. arabicum</i>, which, however, appear in +June and July, and are much larger, sometimes 2 +inches across, with golden anthers, and a shining black<span class="pagenum">[Pg 118] </span> +ovary in the centre, as shown in <a href="#PLATE_29">Plate 29</a>, fig. 107. +Unfortunately, this species is rather tender in the +colder parts of the kingdom, and should be protected +in winter. As an alternative the plants may be +grown in pots in cold greenhouses, or in glasses of +water in the same way as Hyacinths (see <a href="#Page_84">p. 84</a>.) +<i>O. nutans</i>, the drooping white flowers of which are +also shown on <a href="#PLATE_29">Plate 29</a>, fig. 108, is almost as hardy as +<i>O. umbellatum</i>, and may be naturalised in the same +way. <i>O. arcuatum</i> has pure white erect flowers in +May and June on stalks 2 feet or more high. <i>O. +pyramidale</i>, the white flowers of which have a green +stripe behind, and are borne on stalks 1-1/2 to 2 feet +high in June and July, is another species worth +growing in masses in the shrubberies, or in the grass +(see <a href="#PLATE_19">Plate 19</a>, fig. 74); and <i>O. pyrenaicum</i>, with pale +yellow-green flowers may be given similar treatment.</p> + +<p>Ordinary well-drained garden soil of a more or +less sandy nature will suit the Ornithogalums. They +are easily increased by offsets.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="PANCRATIUM" id="PANCRATIUM"></a><a href="#INDEX">PANCRATIUM</a>.</b>—Most of the plants in this genus +require to be grown in heat and moisture under glass. +Two species, however—both with clusters of white +sweet-scented flowers on stout stalks 1 to 2 feet high—can +be grown in the open air in the milder parts of +the British Islands. They are <i>P. illyricum</i> and <i>P</i>.<span class="pagenum">[Pg 119] </span> +<i>maritimum</i>, both natives of Southern Europe. They +have large pear-shaped bulbs with a tapering neck +9 to 12 inches long, and consequently require to be +planted pretty deeply, say about a foot in September. +A well-drained sandy loam and leaf-soil suits them +best, and they may be increased by offsets.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="POLIANTHES" id="POLIANTHES"></a><a href="#INDEX">POLIANTHES</a> tuberosa</b> (<i>Tuberose</i>).—Although what +are known as African, American, Italian, and Pearl +Tuberoses, are usually grown in warm greenhouses, +nevertheless the plants may be grown with a fair +degree of success in the open air in the milder parts +of the kingdom. The thickish bulbs, about 2 inches +through, may be planted out about the end of May, +only just covering the tops with an inch or two of soil. +The thin and narrow leaves will soon appear, and +about August the pure waxy-white heavily-scented +blossoms will be thrown up on stalks 2 to 3 feet high, +that may require a thin stake to keep them erect. +There are single and double-flowered varieties, the +latter being most popular for cultivation under glass. +For this purpose the bulbs may be treated as advised +at <a href="#Page_46">p. 46</a>.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="PUSCHKINIA" id="PUSCHKINIA"></a><a href="#INDEX">PUSCHKINIA</a> scilloides.</b>—A charming little plant, +with ovoid bulbs about an inch through, and narrow +leaves about 6 inches long. About March and April +the white or very pale blue blossoms appear, and are<span class="pagenum">[Pg 120] </span> +decorated with a conspicuous deep-blue line down the +centre of each segment. Warm sheltered spots in the +rock-garden or flower border, and a compost of rich +sandy loam and leaf-soil suit this plant best. The +bulbs should be planted, 3 or 4 inches deep, in +September or October (but not later), and may, if +convenient, remain in the same spot for three or four +seasons without being lifted. This is best done when +the foliage has withered, and will give an opportunity +for detaching the offsets to increase the stock.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="SCHIZOSTYLIS" id="SCHIZOSTYLIS"></a><a href="#INDEX">SCHIZOSTYLIS</a> coccinea.</b>—A charming South +African plant, 2 to 3 feet high, with the appearance of +a Gladiolus in the sword-like leaves. The brilliant +crimson blossoms, each about 2 inches across, appear +from September to November, and consequently often +get spoiled by the weather unless protected. They +are excellent for cutting and valuable so late in the +season. The plants flourish in rich sandy loam, peat +and leaf-soil, and are more satisfactory in the open air +in the mildest parts of the kingdom. In other parts +they should be planted on a sheltered south border +where they can be protected in winter if necessary. +Grown in pots, the plants are popular for greenhouse +decoration. Increase is effected by dividing the +thickish rootstocks in spring.</p> + + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_28" id="PLATE_28"></a>PLATE 28.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-28.jpg" width="350" height="527" alt="GLADIOLUS NANCEIANUS (103) +GLADIOLUS LEMOINEI (104) GLADIOLUS CHILDSI (105)" title="GLADIOLUS NANCEIANUS (103) +GLADIOLUS LEMOINEI (104) GLADIOLUS CHILDSI (105)" > +<span class="caption">GLADIOLUS NANCEIANUS (103) +GLADIOLUS LEMOINEI (104) GLADIOLUS CHILDSI (105)</span> +</div><br> + +<p><b><a name="SCILLA" id="SCILLA"></a><a href="#INDEX">SCILLA</a></b> (<i>Squill</i>; <i>Bluebell</i>).—The Squills and Bluebells +are amongst the most charming of our spring-flowering<span class="pagenum">[Pg 121] </span> +bulbous plants, and it is astonishing that +they are not more extensively utilised for naturalising +in the grass, with Snowdrops, Crocuses, Narcissi, +Chionodoxas, &c., with which they harmonise so well. +Preferring partially shaded spots, they are particularly +valuable for planting in woodland walks, and beneath +our native trees in parks and pleasure grounds. The +hardier kinds require practically no cultivation, and +will flourish in any of the places indicated or in +ordinary garden soil in the rock-garden or flower +border. The best time to plant is about September +and October, and as the bulbs are 1-1/2 to 2 inches in +diameter, they should be buried about 3 or 4 inches +deep, and in hundreds and thousands if possible +instead of in twos and threes.</p> + +<p>The best-known member of the genus is undoubtedly +our Common British <a name="Bluebell" id="Bluebell"></a><a href="#INDEX">Bluebell</a> or Wood +Hyacinth (<i>S. festalis</i>). It is to be found in abundance +in woods and copses, and from April to June sends +up its tall stalks of drooping bell-shaped flowers, the +colour of which varies from bluish-purple to white or +pink, according to the several varieties, such as <i>alba</i>, +<i>rosea</i>, and <i>rubra</i>, &c.</p> + +<p>Another fine species is the <a name="Spanish_Bluebell" id="Spanish_Bluebell"></a><a href="#INDEX">Spanish Bluebell</a> +(<i>S. hispanica</i> or <i>S. campanulata</i>), perhaps the finest-looking<span class="pagenum">[Pg 122] </span> +Bluebell in the open air. The ordinary +variety has porcelain-blue flowers on stalks a foot or +more high. It is surpassed in beauty, however, by its +white variety <i>alba</i>, which flowers freely and grows +vigorously. There are also forms with pink or rosy +flowers, such as <i>rosea</i> or <i>carnea</i>, <i>rubra</i>, &c., all of +which appear in April and May.</p> + +<p>The species, however, that finds so much favour +for autumn planting is <i>S. sibirica</i>, a charming species, +with purple-coated bulbs, and bright porcelain-blue +blossoms with more or less spreading segments. +They appear in February and March on stalks 3 to 6 +inches high, but are more numerous in the variety +called <i>multiflora</i> (see <a href="#PLATE_2">Plate 2</a>, fig. 7). Owing to its +early blooming, it is of course a great favourite with +other early flowering plants.</p> + +<p>Other kinds of Scilla that may be grown in the +open air in the same way as those already mentioned +are:—The <a name="Star_Hyacinth" id="Star_Hyacinth"></a><a href="#INDEX">Star Hyacinth</a> (<i>S. amoena</i>), which requires +rather warm sheltered spots. It has bright indigo +blue flowers with spreading segments from March to +May. <i>S. bifolia</i> grows 6 to 9 inches high, and produces +its bright-blue, bell-shaped flowers in March. +There are several forms of it, such as <i>alba</i>, white, +<i>rosea</i>, pale rose, &c. <i>S. hyacinthoides</i>, bluish-lilac; +<i>S. italica</i>, blue; <i>S. verna</i>, porcelain-blue; <i>S. patula</i>,<span class="pagenum">[Pg 123] </span> +deep blue with white edges; and <i>S. monophylla</i>, with +blue or violet flowers, all appearing in April and May.</p> + +<p>Quite distinct in appearance from all these is <i>S. +peruviana</i>, which, by the way, is not a native of Peru, +but of the Mediterranean region. It has large, pear-shaped +bulbs, and rosettes of leaves 6 to 12 inches long, +with bristly margins. The bright blue starry blossoms +appear in May and June, and are borne in broadly conical +clusters, which elongate during the flowering period. +There are white (<i>alba</i>) and yellow (<i>lutea</i>) varieties, +the first-named of which is shown on <a href="#PLATE_17">Plate 17</a>, fig. 69.</p> + +<p>This species may be grown in warm sheltered spots +in the border or rock-garden, in dryish, well-drained +soil. The bulbs should be planted 4 to 6 inches deep, +and in cold localities should be protected from severe +frosts in winter.</p> + +<p>Scillas may be increased by offsets taken from the +old bulbs when the foliage has withered.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="SISYRINCHIUM" id="SISYRINCHIUM"></a><a href="#INDEX">SISYRINCHIUM</a> grandiflorum.</b>—This is the best +garden plant out of about fifty species. Like Schizostylis +coccinea, it can scarcely be called a "bulbous" +plant, as it has only short thickened rootstocks. It +grows about a foot high, having striated leaves, and +deep purple blossoms (as shown in <a href="#PLATE_20">Plate 20</a>, fig. 79), +which, however, are white in the variety <i>album</i>. It is +an excellent plant for the rock-garden, where it should<span class="pagenum">[Pg 124] </span> +be planted in bold clumps, in light sandy loam and +peat. Increased by division of the rootstocks about +September.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="SPARAXIS" id="SPARAXIS"></a><a href="#INDEX">SPARAXIS.</a></b>—The plant best known under this +name has been already described as <i>Dierama pulcherrima</i> +at <a href="#Page_71">p. 71</a>. The Sparaxis proper are little known +plants, the best known being (i) <i>grandiflora</i>, which +grows 1 to 2 feet high, and has bell-shaped flowers of +deep violet-purple in April and May. There are many +colour variations of this species (including a white +one), several of them having a deeper coloured blotch +at the base of the petals. (ii) <i>Tricolor</i>, resembles +grandiflora in appearance, but has rich orange-red +blossoms with purple-brown blotches on the yellow +base of the petals. There are also several forms of +this species with white, rose, or purple flowers, all +having a yellow centre with distinct blotches at the +base of the petals.</p> + +<p>These South African plants require the same +treatment as <i>Dierama pulcherrima</i> or the Ixias (see +<a href="#Page_89">p. 89</a>). They like warm sheltered spots in the +mildest parts of the kingdom, and when well-grown +are very showy and useful for cutting.</p> + + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_29" id="PLATE_29"></a>PLATE 29. + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-29.jpg" width="350" height="522" alt="ZEPHYRANTHES ATAMASCO (106) ORNITHOGALUM ARABICUM (107) +ORNITHOGALUM NUTANS (108)" title="ZEPHYRANTHES ATAMASCO (106) ORNITHOGALUM ARABICUM (107) +ORNITHOGALUM NUTANS (108)" > +<span class="caption">ZEPHYRANTHES ATAMASCO (106) ORNITHOGALUM ARABICUM (107) +ORNITHOGALUM NUTANS (108)</span> +</div><br> + +<p><b><a name="SPREKELIA" id="SPREKELIA"></a><a href="#INDEX">SPREKELIA</a> formosissima</b> (<i>Jacobæa Lily</i>).—A fine +Mexican plant, with roundish bulbs 2 to 3 inches in +diameter, and narrow strap-shaped leaves 12 to 18 +inches long. In the open air the irregular bright<span class="pagenum">[Pg 125] </span> +crimson blossoms, each about 6 inches across, appear +about August, and never fail to attract attention.</p> + +<p>Unfortunately, the Jacobæa Lily, of which there +are a few colour variations, can scarcely be considered +as perfectly hardy in the mildest parts of the British +Islands. It often flowers, however, when the bulbs are +planted out about the end of May or early in June, +when danger from frost is practically over. The +flowers often appear before the foliage, but the bulbs +should not be lifted in autumn for storing until the +leaves show signs of withering. New plants are +secured from offsets.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="STERNBERGIA" id="STERNBERGIA"></a><a href="#INDEX">STERNBERGIA.</a></b>—Charming plants, with roundish +bulbs about 2 inches in diameter, and strap-shaped +leaves, which are in their prime sometimes with the +blossoms, as in <i>S. lutea</i>, and sometimes long before +the latter appear, as in <i>S. macrantha</i>. The bulbs +should be planted in spring, 5 or 6 inches deep, in +rich and well-drained sandy loam and leaf-soil. When +in bold clumps the flowers present a charming sight, +either in the grass, rock-garden, flower border, or +margins of thin shrubberies. All kinds have beautiful +crocus-like yellow flowers as shown in <a href="#PLATE_33">Plate 33</a>. +<i>S. lutea</i> (fig. 119), variously known as the "Winter +Daffodil" and "Yellow Star Flower," is considered to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a> </span> +be the "<a href="#INDEX">Lily of the Field</a>" mentioned in the Scriptures. +It blooms in September and October, the +yellow flowers nestling amongst the leaves. There +are several forms of it, differing chiefly in the size of +the blossoms and width of the leaves. <i>S. macrantha</i> +(<a href="#PLATE_33">fig. 120</a>) is a still finer species, with flowers much +larger than those of <i>S. lutea</i>, with which they appear +in autumn. Other species are <i>colchiciflora</i>, the bulbs +of which are only about an inch in diameter, and the +pale-yellow sweet-scented flowers appear in autumn. +<i>S. Fischeriana</i> also has bright golden-yellow blossoms, +but differs from its relatives in producing them during +the spring months—February onwards—instead of in +the autumn.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="TECOPHILAEA" id="TECOPHILAEA"></a><a href="#INDEX">TECOPHILÆA</a> cyanocrocus.</b>—This distinct and +charming Chilian plant, popularly known as the +"Chilian Crocus," has fibrous-coated corms and +narrow wavy leaves. The beautiful Violet-scented, +funnel-shaped flowers of a brilliant blue, with a white +centre, appear in March and April, borne in loose +trusses. (See <a href="#PLATE_12">Plate 12</a>, fig. 50.) The variety <i>Leichtlini</i> +differs in having deeper blue flowers than the type, +and without the white centre.</p> + +<p>In the milder parts of the kingdom the Chilian +Crocus may be grown in the open air in warm sheltered +spots, such as on a south border at the base of a wall<span class="pagenum">[Pg 127] </span> +or fence. Rich sandy loam and leaf-soil is a good +compost into which the corms may be planted, 6 to 9 +inches deep, about September. In winter it may be +necessary to give protection with litter, bracken, &c., +in the event of severe frosts or continuous cold rains. +The plants are most readily increased by offsets.</p><br> + +<p><a name="TIGRIDIA" id="TIGRIDIA"></a><b><a href="#INDEX">TIGRIDIA</a> Pavonia</b> (<i>Peacock Tiger Flower</i>).—There +are several species of Tiger Flowers, but the one here +mentioned, and its several varieties, are the most useful +for the out-door garden. They have bulbs 1-1/2 to +2 inches in diameter, and plaited Gladiolus-like leaves. +The blossoms, however, one of which is shown on +<a href="#PLATE_30">Plate 30</a>, fig. 110, are of exceptional beauty and +brilliance amongst bulbous plants, and although they +do not last a long time individually, they nevertheless +follow each other so rapidly that the plants are +scarcely ever without flowers during the summer +months. The coloured picture will convey a far better +idea as to the colouring and blotching of the flowers +than any printed description. There are other +varieties of <i>T. Pavonia</i> besides the one shown on the +Plate. Perhaps the best are <i>grandiflora</i>, very large +and brilliant; <i>conchiflora</i>, yellow blotched with purple; +<i>Wheeleri</i>, deep red; and <i>alba</i>, pure white spotted with +purple.</p> + +<p>The Tiger Flowers are natives of Mexico, and<span class="pagenum">[Pg 128] </span> +therefore cannot be grown successfully in the open air +in all parts of the kingdom. In the mildest parts, however, +the bulbs may be left in the ground during the +winter months, care being taken to protect them with +leaves, litter, &c., during severe weather, or from +heavy cold rains. In less favoured spots, where they +nevertheless blossom out of doors in summer, the bulbs +may be taken up about the end of October when the +foliage has withered, and they may then be stored in +frost-proof places in sand until the following April or +May. Whenever the bulbs are lifted the offsets +should be detached to increase the stock. The +warmest, most sheltered, and sunniest spot in the +garden is obviously the best place for Tigridias. In +addition to this the soil should be a well-drained sandy +loam enriched with old cow-manure and leaf-soil. +During active growth, and especially in the hot dry +seasons, it is necessary to keep the plants well-supplied +with water, otherwise the results are likely to be the +reverse of satisfactory.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="TRITONIA" id="TRITONIA"></a><a href="#INDEX">TRITONIA</a>.</b>—This genus contains a handsome +group of plants with fibrous-coated corms, like those +of a Gladiolus, but much smaller. The plants formerly +known as Montbretia are now also included in this +genus, but the corms in some cases (e.g., <i>M. crocosmiæflora</i>) +have slender creeping rhizomes, from which<span class="pagenum">[Pg 129] </span> +new corms are developed by the end of the season. +The leaves are more or less like those of a Gladiolus, +but somewhat narrower, and often curved, while the +showy blossoms are borne in slender graceful spikes, +that are very useful for cutting.</p> + +<p>Only a few species and their numerous varieties +are cultivated in the open air, being either massed in +bold clumps in the ordinary flower border or rockery, +or as beds by themselves in the grass. Being natives +of South Africa, warm, sheltered, and sunny situations, +and a light loamy soil, enriched with leaf-soil or well-decayed +manure, naturally suit them best. Although +perfectly hardy in all except the bleakest parts of +the kingdom, the kinds mentioned below are best +taken up and replanted each year or two in the spring +time. It is not, however, essential to lift the corms +in the autumn and store them in sand except in very +cold parts where protection would be troublesome +perhaps. A glance at the drawings on <a href="#Page_26">p. 26</a> will +show the reader that offsets are freely produced, and +in this way the kinds are most easily propagated.</p> + +<p>The kinds most suitable for open air culture are: +<i>T. crocata</i> (formerly known under the names of <i>Ixia</i> +and <i>Gladiolus</i>) grows about 2 feet or more high, +having broadly sword-shaped and curved leaves, and +spikes of yellow or orange-coloured blossoms in June<span class="pagenum">[Pg 130] </span> +and July. There is a good deal of variation in the +colour, some varieties being much paler or darker +than others, and spotted with red, yellow, or brown.</p> + +<p><i>T. crocosmiæflora</i>, better known as <i>Montbretia</i>, is a +graceful and popular garden plant, really a hybrid +between <i>Crocosma aurea</i> (see <a href="#Page_67">p. 67</a>) and <i>T. Pottsi</i>. +It grows 2 to 2-1/2 feet high, and resembles a small +Gladiolus in foliage. The brilliant orange-red blossoms +appear in great profusion from July onwards to +October or November, and are always attractive when +grown in bold masses. There are numerous varieties +of it—one, <i>Etoile de Feu</i>—being shown on <a href="#PLATE_27">Plate 27</a>, +fig. 102; others being <i>Germania</i>, <i>Globe d'or</i>, &c.</p> + +<p><i>T. Pottsi</i>, also better known perhaps as a +Montbretia, grows 3 to 4 feet high, having narrow +tapering sword-like leaves, and bright yellow funnel-shaped +flowers suffused with red. They are borne in +gracefully nodding spikes from August onwards, and +exhibit great variation in colour and markings +according to the many varieties that are now in +commerce. The plant known as <i>Tritonia aurea</i> is +described in this work as <i>Crocosma</i> (see <a href="#Page_67">p. 67</a>).</p> + + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_30" id="PLATE_30"></a>PLATE 30.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-30.jpg" width="350" height="514" alt="CRINUM MOOREI (109) TIGRIDIA LILACEA (110)" title="CRINUM MOOREI (109) TIGRIDIA LILACEA (110)" > +<span class="caption">CRINUM MOOREI (109) TIGRIDIA LILACEA (110)</span> +</div><br> + +<p><b><a name="TULBAGHIA" id="TULBAGHIA"></a><a href="#INDEX">TULBAGHIA</a> violacea.</b>—A pretty little South +African plant with narrow leaves and slender spikes of +violet-purple flowers, as shown in <a href="#PLATE_32">Plate 32</a>, fig. 113. +This species seems to be hardy in the Thames Valley +and milder parts, but must be grown in large quantities<span class="pagenum">[Pg 131] </span> +to produce anything like an effect. It grows +well in ordinary well-drained garden soil.</p><br> + +<p><a name="TULIPA" id="TULIPA"></a><b><a href="#INDEX">TULIPA</a></b> (<i>Tulip</i>).—Although the days of the +ridiculous Tulip craze of the seventeenth century have +happily passed away, the love of Tulips has increased +by leaps and bounds, and thousands are now cultivated +where formerly dozens or hundreds were tolerated. +Whether grown in lines or circles in formal beds, in +irregular clumps in the flower border or rock-garden, +or naturalised on grassy banks, Tulips constitute one +of the most pleasing and brilliant features in the +garden during the spring and early summer months. +Indeed, one can hardly imagine what the garden would +be like at this period of the year without the beauteous +forms and glorious tints of the Tulip. The well-known +brown-coated bulbs, 1 to 2 inches in diameter, are now +so cheap that they come within the reach of the most +modest purse, and there is no reason why Tulips +should not be found in every cottage garden in the +kingdom.</p> + +<p>The culture of the Tulip is quite as easy as that of +the common Daffodil. There is one important +difference, however, between the Tulip and the +Daffodil. While the latter likes partial shade, the +Tulip enjoys plenty of sunshine, and shelter from<span class="pagenum">[Pg 132] </span> +bleak winds. Any good garden soil that has been +deeply dug, and enriched with well-decayed manure +some time previous to planting will produce fine +blossoms. In the open air the bulbs should be +planted about 4 inches deep, and not more than +6, even in bleak localities, as a safeguard against +frost. The best time for planting is from the beginning +of September to the end of October, and care +should be taken when planting formal beds to see that +the lines are perfectly straight, and the bulbs buried +at a similar depth throughout. To secure the latter +result a blunt dibber may be used, marked at the +required depth with a cross-piece nailed on, or a piece +of hoop iron that can be slid up or down to any particular +depth. In this way, and by planting each bed +with the same variety, uniformity in height, colour, +and period of flowering will be secured. In vacant +spaces in the flower border and rock-garden, such +formality would be out of place, and in such positions +mixed Tulips produce a more natural effect.</p> + +<p>Although effective in themselves, the beauty of +Tulips is greatly enhanced by planting them in beds +that are already carefully arranged with such plants +as Wallflowers, Polyanthuses, Primroses, Pansies, or +Violas, Dwarf Saxifrages, Double White Arabis, +(<i>A. albida flore pleno</i>), Yellow Alyssum (<i>A. saxatile</i>), +Forget-me-Nots, Aubrietias, and such like plants that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a> </span> +blossom about the same period and make an effective +screen to hide the ground between the blue-green +leaves of the Tulips. In arranging combinations, it +is as well to have the Tulips and carpet plants +arranged so that the colour of the one shall be quite +distinct and in lively contrast with that of the others.</p> + +<p>Thus White Tulips may have Yellow Arabis, +Primroses, Polyanthuses, &c., beneath them. On the +other hand, red Tulips should not be mixed with red +Wallflowers, although they look remarkably effective +with yellow ones. And so on, more or less in accordance +with the principles laid down at <a href="#Page_38">p. 38</a>.</p> + +<p>For the benefit of those who take up their Tulip +bulbs each year (when the flowers have withered being +usually the earliest period for this operation) it may +be as well to mention, that the bulb that is lifted about +midsummer, is not the same as that planted in autumn. +Indeed it is quite a new bulb altogether, and, as a +rule, contains all the elements necessary for the production +of leaves and blossoms the following season. +The Tulip bulb planted in autumn is used up in the +formation of leaves and flowers, that are produced +in early summer. Whence then comes the bulb +that is taken out of the soil when the flowering +period is over? It has been made out of the raw<span class="pagenum">[Pg 134] </span> +material that has been assimilated by the leaves +under the influence of sunlight. Very often there is +more than sufficient food for the formation of a large +flowering bulb, in which case the surplus food is converted +into offsets at the base of the large bulb. +These offsets, if planted and grown on for two or +three seasons in specially prepared beds of light soil, +will develop into flowering bulbs. They should, therefore, +never be thrown away as useless.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="Seedling_Tulips" id="Seedling_Tulips"></a><a href="#INDEX">Seedling Tulips.</a></b>—Besides offsets (some of which +drop several inches below the parent bulb, and are +called "droppers.") Tulips may also be raised from +seeds if one has the requisite patience and convenience. +When seeds are required, the old plants must of course +be left in the soil until the seed capsules have +thoroughly ripened. The seeds should be sown very +sparsely in drills, in carefully-prepared beds of light +soil, and may be left undisturbed for about five or +seven years, until the first flowers appear. Of course +weeds must be kept down regularly, and to facilitate +this operation, the seed beds should not be more than +4 or 5 feet wide, and the drills quite a foot apart.</p> + +<p>The first flowers of a seedling Tulip are called +"Breeders" or "Mother Tulips" and are of one +colour throughout, although the seeds may have been +saved from beautifully pencilled or flaked blossoms.<span class="pagenum">[Pg 135] </span> +When a "breeder" Tulip develops markings of a +different colour, it is said to "break" or "rectify." +Such rectified flowers are then divided into two +groups, (<i>a</i>) those with a pure white centre, base, or +ground, and (<i>b</i>) those with a pure yellow centre.</p> + +<p>The white centred flowers (<i>a</i>) are again divided +into (i) <i>Roses</i>, the flowers of which are various shades +of pink, rose, scarlet, crimson, cerise, &c., and (ii) +<i>Bybloemens</i>, the flowers of which display various shades +of lilac, lavender, violet, purple, brown, purple-black, +&c.</p> + +<p>The yellow-centred flowers (<i>b</i>) are called <i>Bizarres</i>, +with various shades of orange, scarlet, crimson, purple-black, +brown, &c. These various classes of "rectified" +Tulips have the petals either "feathered" or "flamed." +A "feathered" Tulip has the petals beautifully +pencilled and feathered round the edges only; while +a "flamed" Tulip differs in having bright streaks, +bands, or flames of a distinct colour shooting up the +centre of each petal from the base, and forking out +towards the pencilled and feathered margins.</p> + +<p>Only specialists in what are called the "florist's +Tulip," however, take a keen delight in drawing these +distinctions.</p> + +<p>There are some hundreds of varieties of Tulips +enumerated in nurserymen's catalogues, but it is +unnecessary to grow many of them to make an<span class="pagenum">[Pg 136] </span> +effective display. The following—arranged according +to the predominating colour—may be regarded as a +good selection for planting in the open ground in +autumn:—</p> + +<p><b>Single Varieties for Planting Out.</b>—<i>Red, Scarlet, Crimson, +and Pink.</i>—Artus, Bacchus, Belle Alliance, Couleur de Cardinal, +Crimson King, Duc Van Thol, Pottebakker, Proserpine, +Rose Luisante, Rose Gris de Lin. <i>Orange, Brownish, and Terra +Cotta.</i>—Cardinal's Hat, Duc Van Thol, Leonardo da Vinci, Prince +of Austria, and Thomas Moore. <i>Yellow.</i>—Bouton d'Or (<a href="#PLATE_9">Plate 9</a>, +fig. 37), Canary Bird, Chrysolora, Gold Finch, Golden Crown, Mon +Trésor, Pottebakker, and Yellow Prince. <i>White or Blush.</i>—Albion +(or White Hawk), Jacht van Delft, White Swan, Grand +Duchess, Joost von Vondel, La Reine, Immaculée, and Pottebakker. +<i>Purple and Violet.</i>—Molière, Purple Crown, President +Lincoln. <i>Red, Pink, Rose, or Violet, with White.</i>—Bride of Haarlem, +Cottage Maid, Couleur ponceau, Standard Royal, Wapen +van Leiden, Picotee (<a href="#PLATE_9">Plate 9</a>, fig. 36). <i>Red and Yellow combined.</i>—Brutus, +Duchesse de Parma, Keizerskroon.</p> + +<p><b>Double flowered Tulips.</b>—<i>Scarlet and Crimson combined.</i>—Imperator +Rubrorum, Rex Rubrorum, Rubra maxima. <i>Pink +and Rose.</i>—Couronne des Roses, Murillo, Raphael, Rose d'Amour, +Salvator Rosa. <i>White.</i>—Alba maxima, Grand Vainqueur, La +Candeur, Rose blanche. <i>Red and Yellow combined.</i>—Duc Van +Thol, Gloria Solis, Tournesol, Princess Alexandra. <i>Orange or +Yellow.</i>—Tournesol, Yellow Rose, Miroir.</p><br> + +<p><b><a href="#INDEX">Parrot</a> or <a name="Dragon" id="Dragon"></a>Dragon Tulips.</b>—These remarkable looking +flowers are supposed to be descended from the curious +green and yellow-striped <i>T. viridiflora</i>. The petals +are cut and jagged into all kinds of peculiar shapes, +while the colours are chiefly a mixture of reds, +crimsons, greens, and yellows.</p> + + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_31" id="PLATE_31"></a>PLATE 31.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-31.jpg" width="350" height="524" alt="BELLADONNA LILY (111) DIERAMA PULCHERRIMA (112)" title="BELLADONNA LILY (111) DIERAMA PULCHERRIMA (112)" > +<span class="caption">BELLADONNA LILY (111) DIERAMA PULCHERRIMA (112)</span> +</div> + +<p><b>Darwin Tulips.</b>—These are a very popular class of +self-coloured Tulips derived from <i>T. Gesneriana</i>. They +are infact "breeder" Tulips referred to on <a>p. 134</a>.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a> </span> +The individual blossoms are large and cup-shaped, and +are borne on stalks 1-1/2 to 2 feet high. There are +numerous named varieties (for which a catalogue +should be consulted), but a mixed collection will give +a grand display, the colours being shades of apricot, +yellow, carmine, rose, pink, crimson, maroon, and white.</p> + +<p>With the <a name="Darwin_Tulips" id="Darwin_Tulips"></a><a href="#INDEX">Darwin Tulips</a> may be associated what +are known as the "Cottage" or "May Flowering" +Tulips—vigorous kinds with tall stems and fine large +flowers, that are admirably adapted for the decoration +of the garden. For vases, bowls, &c., they are also +excellent.</p> + +<p><b>Natural Species or Wild Tulips.</b>—Apart from the +almost innumerable florists' varieties of Tulips, keen +interest has been taken of late years in the cultivation +of the natural species of Tulip which are found growing +wild in various parts of South Europe, Asia Minor, +Turkestan, &c. There are quite a large number of +these natural species now to be had, but the cream +of them may be said to be <i>Gesneriana</i>, <i>Greigi</i>, +<i>macropsila</i>, and <i>Oculus Solis</i>, all with scarlet or crimson +blossoms and black blotches at the base. Other +useful kinds for bedding out or for naturalising with +Daffodils, Bluebells, &c., are <i>Eichleri</i>, <i>fulgens</i>, <i>Hageri</i>, +<i>macrostyla</i>, <i>maculata</i>, <i>Didieri</i>, <i>Ostrowskyana</i>, <i>planifolia</i>, +<i>lurida</i>, <i>undulatifolia</i>, <i>suaveolens</i>, all with bright red or<span class="pagenum">[Pg 138] </span> +deep crimson blossoms except <i>suaveolens</i> which is bordered +with yellow. Yellow flowered kinds are <i>australis</i> +(<a href="#PLATE_10">Plate 10</a>, fig. 40), <i>Batalini</i>, <i>flava</i>, <i>Billietiana</i>, <i>galatica</i>, +<i>neglecta</i>, <i>retroflexa</i>, <i>sylvestris</i>, <i>strangulata</i> (speckled and +streaked with red), <i>viridiflora</i> (with broad green band +down the centre), <i>Sprengeri</i> (petals tipped with red), +and <i>Kolpakowskyana</i>.</p> + +<p>Apart from their value in the garden, Tulips are +also popular as cut flowers. As most of them produce +their blossoms on sturdy stems 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 feet high, +they are easily picked, and when bunched in vases +with foliage, or grasses, or even by themselves, they +add a luxurious appearance to any apartment.</p> + +<p>The great mistake many make in picking Tulip +flowers is that they gather them often in the middle +of the day when the petals are wide open, especially +if there is strong sunshine. In the expanded state +the blossoms do not last very long. They should +therefore be picked either early in the morning or +late in the evening, when the petals are closed in over +the stamens and ovary in the centre. There is no +need to actually <i>cut</i> the stems. By holding them +close to the ground and giving a staccato pull upwards, +they come away easily from the bulb, and possess the +advantage of being a few inches longer than those cut +with a knife or scissors.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="WATSONIA" id="WATSONIA"></a><a href="#INDEX">WATSONIA.</a></b>—Although popularly called "Bugle<span class="pagenum">[Pg 139] </span> +Lilies" the Watsonias really belong to the Iris family. +They have fibrous-coated corms, stiffish, ribbed, sword-like +leaves, and more or less funnel-shaped flowers. +They are indigenous to South Africa, and may be +grown in the open air under much the same conditions +as Ixias, viz., warm, sheltered spots, and in light sandy +soil. In the mildest parts of the kingdom the corms may +be left in the ground during the winter, if necessary, +but they should be protected in severe weather with +litter, &c. In less favoured spots, it is safer to lift +the corms in autumn when the leaves have withered, +and store them in dry soil or sand until the spring.</p> + +<p>The varieties depicted on <a href="#PLATE_27">Plate 27</a>, figs. 99 to 101, +show some of the most graceful kinds. <i>W. Meriana</i>, +fig. 99 (also known as <i>Antholyza</i>) has several varieties +including a scarlet one (<i>coccinea</i>), a white one (fig. 100), +and a pink and white one (<i>rosea-alba</i>), which bear their +blossoms during the summer months on stems 2 to 3 +feet high. <i>W. rosea</i> resembles a Gladiolus in appearance, +and indeed was once known as <i>G. pyramidatus</i>. +It has several forms, including <i>angusta</i>, shown in the +plate (fig. 101). Perhaps the most charming variety of +all, however, is the beautiful <i>Ardernei</i>, the large pure +white blossoms of which always attract attention +owing to their purity and delicacy (<a href="#PLATE_26">Plate 26</a>, fig. 96).</p> + +<p>As a pot plant for conservatory decoration, +<i>W. Ardernei</i> is very valuable, owing to its graceful<span class="pagenum">[Pg 140] </span> +appearance. In the open air it requires warm, +sheltered, and sunny positions, and a rich sandy soil.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="ZEPHYRANTHES" id="ZEPHYRANTHES"></a><a href="#INDEX">ZEPHYRANTHES</a></b> (<i>Zephyr Flower</i>).—Beautiful +plants with small brown-coated bulbs about an inch +in diameter, from which spring narrow leaves and +rather large funnel-shaped flowers, only one, however, +on each stem. There are only a few species that may +be grown in the open air in the mildest parts of the +kingdom. The soil cannot be too well drained, and +should consist of a rich sandy loam, while the position +should be the warmest and most sheltered in the +garden. The kinds most likely to succeed are +<i>Atamasco</i>, a native of the damp woods and fields of +Virginia. The flowers shown on <a href="#PLATE_29">Plate 29</a>, fig. 106, +are at first pure white, but become tinted with pink +or purple. <i>Z. candida</i>, the "Swamp Lily" of La +Plata, has pure white blossoms, as shown on +<a href="#PLATE_32">Plate 32</a>, fig. 114, as have also <i>Treatiæ</i> and <i>tubispatha</i>, +while <i>carinata</i> and <i>rosea</i> both have rose-coloured +flowers. The average height of these kinds +is about a foot, and they may be increased from +offsets or from seeds. At one time the Zephyr +Flowers were grown in warm greenhouses, but +experience has proved that they are much hardier +than was at first supposed.</p> + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_32" id="PLATE_32"></a>PLATE 32.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-32.jpg" width="350" height="514" alt="TULBAGHIA VIOLACEA (113) ZEPHYRANTHES CANDIDA (114) +CRINUM POWELLI ALBUM (115) LYCORIS SQUAMIGERA (116)" title="TULBAGHIA VIOLACEA (113) ZEPHYRANTHES CANDIDA (114) +CRINUM POWELLI ALBUM (115) LYCORIS SQUAMIGERA (116)" > +<span class="caption">TULBAGHIA VIOLACEA (113) ZEPHYRANTHES CANDIDA (114) +CRINUM POWELLI ALBUM (115) LYCORIS SQUAMIGERA (116)</span> +</div> + + + +<br> +<h2><a name="ENEMIES_OF_BULBOUS_PLANTS" id="ENEMIES_OF_BULBOUS_PLANTS"></a><a href="#INDEX">ENEMIES OF BULBOUS PLANTS.</a></h2><p><span class="pagenum">[Pg 141] </span></p> + + + +<p>Bulbous plants are subject to the attacks of +various insect and fungoid pests in the same way as +other plants are, and steps should be taken to free +the plants from them whenever they appear, or to +prevent them appearing at all.</p> + +<p>It is easier to carry out the latter recommendation +when insect enemies only are to be dreaded, but it is +quite another matter with fungoid diseases, the +presence of which is only revealed when they have +reached the "fruiting" or spore stage, and have +already done a certain amount of mischief.</p><br> + +<p><b><a name="Wireworms_Grubs" id="Wireworms_Grubs"></a><a href="#INDEX">Wireworms, Grubs,</a> &c.</b>—When a soil is infested +with any of these pests, the gardener may be almost +sure to find his choicest roots or bulbs eaten by them. +He should, therefore, take the precaution to have the +ground turned up, if possible, some time before planting, +so that these pests may be brought to the surface +and exposed to the keen eyes of the "birds in the +air" who are always on the watch for any choice +morsels that are likely to improve their voices.</p> + +<p>It would not be safe, however, to trust altogether +to the natural enemies of these pests who are +usually endowed with keen powers for evading +their attacks. It may be necessary, therefore, to lay +traps of pieces of potato, carrot, parsnip, or any fleshy<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a> </span> +and enticing material in their haunts, and examine +them regularly. A piece of stick thrust into these +substances will make a convenient handle for lifting +them up for examination. The best time of course to +catch the enemy is when he is dining off his piece of +potato, parsnip, or carrot. He and his friends should +then be led forth for execution beneath the weight of +the foot, or into a bucket of boiling water, or in any +other way that the ingenious reader may devise. The +main thing, however, to bear in mind is that the +enemy must be <i>killed</i> without mercy or remorse. And +no matter how ruthlessly he is persecuted, it will be +found each season that there are still some of his +family left to carry on a guerilla warfare against the +gardener and his plants. So that one must be really +always on the watch for attack, and, like a wise +general, be ready to meet it, or spoil it altogether.</p> + +<p>Besides using traps of potatoes, carrots, &c., +<i>nitrate of soda</i> and <i><a name="kainit" id="kainit"></a><a href="#INDEX">kainit</a></i> have been found very useful +for ridding the soil of these pests. About 2lbs. of +nitrate of soda or kainit to a square rod (30-1/4 square +yards) has been found an ample dressing. It should +be distributed evenly over the surface of the soil, +when the latter is in a moist—but not sodden—condition.</p> + +<p><a name="Lime_and_Soot" id="Lime_and_Soot"></a><a href="#INDEX"><b>Lime and Soot</b></a>.—Slugs and snails are great +marauders among the young growths of bulbous and<span class="pagenum">[Pg 143] </span> +other plants, and may be kept in check by the use of +nitrate of soda, and kainit, as well as by birds. +These remedies may be supplemented, or even supplanted, +by the use of lime and soot. These substances +are always easy to obtain, and will be found +of great use not only in keeping the garden free from +insect pests, but also because of their manurial value.</p> + +<p>When lime is used for checking the attacks of +slugs or snails it should be freshly slaked, that is, a +little caustic or quick-lime should be broken down +into a fine white powdery mass by having a little +water poured over it. When the heat has subsided +the powdered lime may be sprinkled around and +between the crowns of the plants that are being +attacked by slugs. Should it come in contact with +the slimy bodies of these it will soon kill them. Soot +that has been exposed to the air for several weeks will +be found a good preventive also against these pests, +and it has the advantage of not being so conspicuous +amongst the plants as lime. Fresh soot from the +chimney should on no account be strewn amongst the +young crowns or growths of plants, as the poisonous +matters in it may kill them as well as the slugs.</p> + +<p>Slaked lime and seasoned soot may be mixed +together, and then strewn over the surface of the soil. +Even common <a name="salt" id="salt"></a><a href="#INDEX">salt </a>is a good slug destroyer, and may +be applied in either a liquid or solid form. Lime-water<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a> </span> +is also an excellent cleanser, and may be given to the +soil freely without injury to the plants. Where large +numbers of Daffodils are grown one must keep a +watch for the grub of the <a name="Narcissus_fly" id="Narcissus_fly"></a>Narcissus fly (<i><a href="#INDEX">Merodon</a> +equestris</i> or <i>Narcissi</i>), an insect resembling a small +and slender bumble-bee in appearance. It lays its +eggs in the early summer months in the Narcissi, and +the grubs from these bore their way into the fleshy +part of the bulb, damaging the growths and flower +stems for next season. When the bulbs are being +lifted or planted, any that are soft to the touch are +very likely affected, and should be examined for the +pest. Any badly affected should be burned. Those +not so badly injured may be steeped in water in July +or August, for about a week, to drown the maggots +which at this period have caused but little mischief. +When the perfect Merodon insects are on the wing +from about the middle of May to the middle of July +they may be enticed to drown themselves in saucers +containing strong solutions of sugar or treacle, placed +amongst the plants.</p> + +<p>Although most birds in the garden may be looked +on with a friendly eye, one must make an exception +in the case of <i>Passer domesticus</i>,—otherwise known as +the common <a name="sparrow" id="sparrow"></a><a href="#INDEX">sparrow</a>. He will tear your Crocuses—- especially +the yellow ones—to tatters out of sheer +mischief. If he would only eat the petals or make a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a> </span> +nest of them there would be some excuse; but no, he +simply tears them to pieces and flings them, so to +speak, in your face. Mrs. Sparrow is no doubt just +as bad, and therefore should have her nest and the +eggs therein confiscated and destroyed on every +possible occasion. A few strands of <i>black</i> cotton +thread stretched over the Crocuses will be found to +yield a certain amount of protection against attack.</p><br> + +<p><b><a href="#INDEX">Fungoid Diseases.</a></b>—Of the fungoid diseases affecting +bulbous plants happily there are few; and even these are +not troublesome to any alarming extent in the open air.</p> + +<p>Snowdrops are sometimes attacked with a kind of +mildew known scientifically as <i>Botrytis galanthina</i>. +The fungus attacks bulbs, leaves, and flower-stems one +after the other, and effectually stops the plants from +flowering. As soon as this disease is seen on the +plants, the affected portions should be carefully +picked off and burned. Once the disease reaches the +black spot-like stage, there is little hope for the plants +so that they had better be burned straight away.</p> + +<p>Colchicums, Crocuses, Tulips, Hyacinths, Daffodils, +Gladioli, and others are affected from time to time +with one fungoid disease or another, probably because +the soil in which they grow has not been particularly +well-prepared, and is full of some organic matter that +can only be disposed of by the addition of freshly-slaked +lime, and deep digging at the earliest opportunity.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a> </span> +When any of the plants referred to are badly +attacked with any fungoid disease, the simplest and +best remedy is to burn them—and thus kill the spores +and prevent them spreading. It will be cheaper to +buy new bulbs the following season, and to grow +them in <i>another</i> portion of the garden, rather than +try to reclaim the old ones whose doom in any case +is only a matter of time.</p> + +<p>Perhaps one of the worst <a href="#INDEX">diseases</a> affecting bulbous +plants is that which for some years past has +ravaged plants of the <a href="#INDEX">Madonna Lily</a> (<i>Lilium candidum</i>). +The bulbs seem to be fairly free from the +disease, but the leaves and stems become so badly +affected in some parts of the country that they cannot +perform their functions, with the result that no +blossoms are borne, or only misshapen ones. There +is at present, I believe, no effectual remedy against +the Lily disease, and once it appears in a garden, the +culture of the Madonna Lily is doomed from that +moment. As a preventive, the plants might be +sprayed several times during the season, from January +onwards, with a solution made by dissolving one ounce +of <a name="liver_of_sulphur" id="liver_of_sulphur"></a><a href="#INDEX">liver of sulphur</a> in a gallon of hot water, and adding +2-1/2 gallons more of water. This should be applied +with a fine-sprayed syringe, and is a good preventive +against many kinds of fungoid attacks. If used near +white woodwork and comes in contact with it, the +paint will be discoloured. Of late years, the bulbs<span class="pagenum">[Pg 147] </span> +that are imported in such large numbers from Japan +have been more or less afflicted with a fungoid disease +that appears to be very difficult to check. This +disease may be the result of over cultivation, or too +intense cultivation to secure large quantities of plants +in a comparatively short time. The Bermuda Lily +disease is probably the result of similar efforts to get +rich too quickly. So that one natural remedy against +the disease would be to grow the bulbs more naturally +and allow them to ripen fully before disturbing them. +However, as people in Europe must have Lilies, they +take the best that can be provided. On arrival of the +bulbs they should be carefully examined, and any +diseased or decayed portions taken off and burned. +As a preventive against any spores germinating, the +bulbs may be well rolled in freshly slaked lime, and +allowed to dry in a cool airy place for a day or two +before planting or potting. Mr. Massee, in his book +on "Plant Diseases," recommends submerging the +bulbs in a 1 per cent. solution of <a name="salicylic" id="salicylic"></a><a href="#INDEX">salicylic acid</a> for +20 minutes, and after thoroughly drying them, to kill +the spores of the fungus.</p> + +<p class="ccaption"><a name="PLATE_33" id="PLATE_33"></a>PLATE 33.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 350px;"> +<img src="images/plate-33.jpg" width="350" height="522" alt="CROCUS MEDIUS (117) COLCHICUM SPECIOSUM (118) +STERNBERGIA LUTEA (119) STERNBERGIA MACRANTHA (120) +CROCUS OCHROLEUCUS (121) CROCUS SPECIOSUS (122)" title="CROCUS MEDIUS (117) COLCHICUM SPECIOSUM (118) +STERNBERGIA LUTEA (119) STERNBERGIA MACRANTHA (120) +CROCUS OCHROLEUCUS (121) CROCUS SPECIOSUS (122)" > +<span class="caption">CROCUS MEDIUS (117) COLCHICUM SPECIOSUM (118) +STERNBERGIA LUTEA (119) STERNBERGIA MACRANTHA (120) +CROCUS OCHROLEUCUS (121) CROCUS SPECIOSUS (122)</span> +</div> + +<p>A peculiar fungoid disease, known as "<a name="basal_rot" id="basal_rot"></a><a href="#INDEX">basal rot,</a>" +attacks Daffodils and Narcissi in soil that is cold and +heavy or badly drained. It causes the leaves to become +brown at the tips, and the bulbs to become rootless<span class="pagenum">[Pg 148] </span> +and swollen, while the tunics are soft and rotten +at the base. The best way to check this disease is to +have the bulbs lifted, and if they can only be grown +in the same soil again, this should be deeply dug to let +the water pass away from it, and some road grit and +leaf-soil should be incorporated with it before re-planting. +Some freshly slaked quicklime may be +afterwards pricked into the top with the fork. + + + +<br> +<h2><a name="MANURING_BULBOUS_PLANTS" id="MANURING_BULBOUS_PLANTS"></a><a href="#INDEX">MANURING BULBOUS PLANTS.</a></h2> + + +<p>When bulbous plants, like Tulips, Hyacinths, +Daffodils, &c., are planted and lifted annually, they +can hardly be said to require any special manuring +during the period of their growth, as the soil in which +they are planted is, or ought to be, usually well prepared +and manured in advance in the way recommended +at <a href="#Page_16">p. 16</a>. But even when such bulbs are +planted and lifted every year, they might be considerably +improved by the application of a little artificial +manure at the right time. For instance, in +December or January a little <a name="basic_slag" id="basic_slag"></a><i><a href="#INDEX">basic slag</a></i> (10 to 20 +pounds to about 30 square yards) would supply phosphatic +food to roots later on in the season when it +would be useful for the development of the blossoms.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a> </span></p> + +<p>A little <i><a href="#INDEX">superphosphate</a> of lime</i> at the rate of four to +eight pounds to 30 square yards, would also be useful, +applied about March or April. <i><a name="Kainit149" id="Kainit149"></a><a href="#INDEX">Kainit</a></i> is a cheap +potash manure, and may be applied at the same time +as the basic slag at the rate of one or two pounds to +the same area—either by itself or mixed with the slag.</p> + +<p>It contains a good deal of common salt, and should +therefore be applied <i>before</i> root-action commences, +otherwise it may prove injurious to the new roots.</p> + +<p>The necessity for manuring becomes more important +in the case of bulbous plants that are to be left +in the same soil for several years. Like other plants, +of course, they rob the soil of a certain amount of food, +and unless this is returned in some way the soil +gradually becomes poorer and the plants less vigorous. +One of the best ways, perhaps, to supply fresh food +for the roots of the bulbous plants is to give the soil a +good top-dressing or mulching of well-decayed manure +in the early autumn months. This will gradually +decay during the ensuing winter and spring months +and yield up its food. During this period it will +also prevent the heat, that was taken into the +soil in the summer, from escaping too rapidly by +radiation. It would be more harmful than useful to +apply a mulching of manure in the depth of winter or +early spring, as it would prevent the sun's rays from +warming the roots.<p><span class="pagenum">[Pg 150] </span></p> + +<p>Where Lilies, Tulips, Daffodils, Crocuses, Snowdrops, +and many other kinds of bulbous plants are +naturalised in the grass, in flower borders, or amongst +trees and shrubs, a good dressing of well-decomposed +manure in the early autumn will prove highly beneficial +each year. The basic slag, kainit, and superphosphate +may be also applied at the seasons +mentioned, if considered desirable. + +<p class="trnote">Transcribers Note<br> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">1. Preface Hynenocalis changed to Hymenocalis</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">2. Page 50 End of first paragraph word added</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"umbels form on the top of the that spring out of the bulb" changed to</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"umbels form on the top of the <i>shoot</i> that spring out of the bulb"</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">3. Page 56 "three or fours seasons" changed to "three or four seasons"</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">4. Page 57 "(also known a <i>Calliprora lutea</i>)" changed to "(also known as <i>Calliprora lutea</i>)"</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">5. Page 57 "rose-red to to pinkish-purple;" changed to</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"rose-red to pinkish-purple;"</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">6. Page 110 "when the leaves have begun to turn yellow, Seeds may"</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">changed to "when the leaves have begun to turn yellow. Seeds may"</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">7. Page 134 "a large flowering bulbs," change to</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"a large flowering bulb,"</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">8. Page 75 Closing bracket added "(finely figured in "<span class="smcap">Flora and Sylva</span>")"</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">9. Throughout ligature [oe] changed to oe</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">10. Page 175 Madame de Graaf changed to Madame de Graaff</span><br> +<span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">11. Plate 25 TERMIFOLIUM changed to TENUIFOLIUM to match List of Plates and Text.</span><br></p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Beautiful Bulbous Plants, by John Weathers + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEAUTIFUL BULBOUS PLANTS *** + +***** This file should be named 37362-h.htm or 37362-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/7/3/6/37362/ + +Produced by Chris Curnow, Hazel Batey, Lindy Walsh and the +Online Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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