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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, George Walker at Suez, by Anthony Trollope
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
+other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
+whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
+the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
+www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
+to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
+
+
+
+
+Title: George Walker at Suez
+
+
+Author: Anthony Trollope
+
+
+
+Release Date: January 16, 2015 [eBook #3718]
+[This file was first posted on August 7, 2001]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GEORGE WALKER AT SUEZ***
+
+
+Transcribed from the 1864 Chapman and Hall “Tales of All Countries”
+edition by David Price, email ccx074@pglaf.org
+
+
+
+
+
+ GEORGE WALKER AT SUEZ.
+
+
+OF all the spots on the world’s surface that I, George Walker, of Friday
+Street, London, have ever visited, Suez in Egypt, at the head of the Red
+Sea, is by far the vilest, the most unpleasant, and the least
+interesting. There are no women there, no water, and no vegetation. It
+is surrounded, and indeed often filled, by a world of sand. A scorching
+sun is always overhead; and one is domiciled in a huge cavernous hotel,
+which seems to have been made purposely destitute of all the comforts of
+civilised life. Nevertheless, in looking back upon the week of my life
+which I spent there I always enjoy a certain sort of triumph;—or rather,
+upon one day of that week, which lends a sort of halo not only to my
+sojourn at Suez, but to the whole period of my residence in Egypt.
+
+I am free to confess that I am not a great man, and that, at any rate in
+the earlier part of my career, I had a hankering after the homage which
+is paid to greatness. I would fain have been a popular orator, feeding
+myself on the incense tendered to me by thousands; or failing that, a man
+born to power, whom those around him were compelled to respect, and
+perhaps to fear. I am not ashamed to acknowledge this, and I believe
+that most of my neighbours in Friday Street would own as much were they
+as candid and open-hearted as myself.
+
+It is now some time since I was recommended to pass the first four months
+of the year in Cairo because I had a sore-throat. The doctor may have
+been right, but I shall never divest myself of the idea that my partners
+wished to be rid of me while they made certain changes in the management
+of the firm. They would not otherwise have shown such interest every
+time I blew my nose or relieved my huskiness by a slight cough;—they
+would not have been so intimate with that surgeon from St. Bartholomew’s
+who dined with them twice at the Albion; nor would they have gone to work
+directly that my back was turned, and have done those very things which
+they could not have done had I remained at home. Be that as it may, I
+was frightened and went to Cairo, and while there I made a trip to Suez
+for a week.
+
+I was not happy at Cairo, for I knew nobody there, and the people at the
+hotel were, as I thought, uncivil. It seemed to me as though I were
+allowed to go in and out merely by sufferance; and yet I paid my bill
+regularly every week. The house was full of company, but the company was
+made up of parties of twos and threes, and they all seemed to have their
+own friends. I did make attempts to overcome that terrible British
+exclusiveness, that noli me tangere with which an Englishman arms
+himself; and in which he thinks it necessary to envelop his wife; but it
+was in vain, and I found myself sitting down to breakfast and dinner, day
+after day, as much alone as I should do if I called for a chop at a
+separate table in the Cathedral Coffee-house. And yet at breakfast and
+dinner I made one of an assemblage of thirty or forty people. That I
+thought dull.
+
+But as I stood one morning on the steps before the hotel, bethinking
+myself that my throat was as well as ever I remembered it to be, I was
+suddenly slapped on the back. Never in my life did I feel a more
+pleasant sensation, or turn round with more unaffected delight to return
+a friend’s greeting. It was as though a cup of water had been handed to
+me in the desert. I knew that a cargo of passengers for Australia had
+reached Cairo that morning, and were to be passed on to Suez as soon as
+the railway would take them, and did not therefore expect that the
+greeting had come from any sojourner in Egypt. I should perhaps have
+explained that the even tenor of our life at the hotel was disturbed some
+four times a month by a flight through Cairo of a flock of travellers,
+who like locusts eat up all that there was eatable at the Inn for the
+day. They sat down at the same tables with us, never mixing with us,
+having their separate interests and hopes, and being often, as I thought,
+somewhat loud and almost selfish in the expression of them. These flocks
+consisted of passengers passing and repassing by the overland route to
+and from India and Australia; and had I nothing else to tell, I should
+delight to describe all that I watched of their habits and manners—the
+outward bound being so different in their traits from their brethren on
+their return. But I have to tell of my own triumph at Suez, and must
+therefore hasten on to say that on turning round quickly with my
+outstretched hand, I found it clasped by John Robinson.
+
+“Well, Robinson, is this you?” “Holloa, Walker, what are you doing
+here?” That of course was the style of greeting. Elsewhere I should not
+have cared much to meet John Robinson, for he was a man who had never
+done well in the world. He had been in business and connected with a
+fairly good house in Sise Lane, but he had married early, and things had
+not exactly gone well with him. I don’t think the house broke, but he
+did; and so he was driven to take himself and five children off to
+Australia. Elsewhere I should not have cared to come across him, but I
+was positively glad to be slapped on the back by anybody on that
+landing-place in front of Shepheard’s Hotel at Cairo.
+
+I soon learned that Robinson with his wife and children, and indeed with
+all the rest of the Australian cargo, were to be passed on to Suez that
+afternoon, and after a while I agreed to accompany their party. I had
+made up my mind, on coming out from England, that I would see all the
+wonders of Egypt, and hitherto I had seen nothing. I did ride on one day
+some fifteen miles on a donkey to see the petrified forest; but the
+guide, who called himself a dragoman, took me wrong or cheated me in some
+way. We rode half the day over a stony, sandy plain, seeing nothing,
+with a terrible wind that filled my mouth with grit, and at last the
+dragoman got off. “Dere,” said he, picking up a small bit of stone, “Dis
+is de forest made of stone. Carry that home.” Then we turned round and
+rode back to Cairo. My chief observation as to the country was this—that
+whichever way we went, the wind blew into our teeth. The day’s work cost
+me five-and-twenty shillings, and since that I had not as yet made any
+other expedition. I was therefore glad of an opportunity of going to
+Suez, and of making the journey in company with an acquaintance.
+
+At that time the railway was open, as far as I remember, nearly half the
+way from Cairo to Suez. It did not run four or five times a day, as
+railways do in other countries, but four or five times a month. In fact,
+it only carried passengers on the arrival of these flocks passing between
+England and her Eastern possessions. There were trains passing backwards
+and forwards constantly, as I perceived in walking to and from the
+station; but, as I learned, they carried nothing but the labourers
+working on the line, and the water sent into the Desert for their use.
+It struck me forcibly at the time that I should not have liked to have
+money in that investment.
+
+Well; I went with Robinson to Suez. The journey, like everything else in
+Egypt, was sandy, hot, and unpleasant. The railway carriages were pretty
+fair, and we had room enough; but even in them the dust was a great
+nuisance. We travelled about ten miles an hour, and stopped about an
+hour at every ten miles. This was tedious, but we had cigars with us and
+a trifle of brandy and water; and in this manner the railway journey wore
+itself away. In the middle of the night, however, we were moved from the
+railway carriages into omnibuses, as they were called, and then I was not
+comfortable. These omnibuses were wooden boxes, placed each upon a pair
+of wheels, and supposed to be capable of carrying six passengers. I was
+thrust into one with Robinson, his wife and five children, and
+immediately began to repent of my good-nature in accompanying them. To
+each vehicle were attached four horses or mules, and I must acknowledge
+that as on the railway they went as slow as possible, so now in these
+conveyances, dragged through the sand, they went as fast as the beasts
+could be made to gallop. I remember the Fox Tally-ho coach on the
+Birmingham road when Boyce drove it, but as regards pace the Fox Tally-ho
+was nothing to these machines in Egypt. On the first going off I was
+jolted right on to Mrs. R. and her infant; and for a long time that lady
+thought that the child had been squeezed out of its proper shape; but at
+last we arrived at Suez, and the baby seemed to me to be all right when
+it was handed down into the boat at Suez.
+
+The Robinsons were allowed time to breakfast at that cavernous
+hotel—which looked to me like a scheme to save the expense of the
+passengers’ meal on board the ship—and then they were off. I shook hands
+with him heartily as I parted with him at the quay, and wished him well
+through all his troubles. A man who takes a wife and five young children
+out into a colony, and that with his pockets but indifferently lined,
+certainly has his troubles before him. So he has at home, no doubt; but,
+judging for myself, I should always prefer sticking to the old ship as
+long as there is a bag of biscuits in the locker. Poor Robinson! I have
+never heard a word of him or his since that day, and sincerely trust that
+the baby was none the worse for the little accident in the box.
+
+And now I had the prospect of a week before me at Suez, and the Robinsons
+had not been gone half an hour before I began to feel that I should have
+been better off even at Cairo. I secured a bedroom at the hotel—I might
+have secured sixty bedrooms had I wanted them—and then went out and stood
+at the front door, or gate. It is a large house, built round a
+quadrangle, looking with one front towards the head of the Red Sea, and
+with the other into and on a sandy, dead-looking, open square. There I
+stood for ten minutes, and finding that it was too hot to go forth,
+returned to the long cavernous room in which we had breakfasted. In that
+long cavernous room I was destined to eat all my meals for the next six
+days. Now at Cairo I could, at any rate, see my fellow-creatures at
+their food. So I lit a cigar, and began to wonder whether I could
+survive the week. It was now clear to me that I had done a very rash
+thing in coming to Suez with the Robinsons.
+
+Somebody about the place had asked me my name, and I had told it
+plainly—George Walker. I never was ashamed of my name yet, and never had
+cause to be. I believe at this day it will go as far in Friday Street as
+any other. A man may be popular, or he may not. That depends mostly on
+circumstances which are in themselves trifling. But the value of his
+name depends on the way in which he is known at his bank. I have never
+dealt in tea spoons or gravy spoons, but my name will go as far as
+another name. “George Walker,” I answered, therefore, in a tone of some
+little authority, to the man who asked me, and who sat inside the gate of
+the hotel in an old dressing-gown and slippers.
+
+That was a melancholy day with me, and twenty times before dinner did I
+wish myself back at Cairo. I had been travelling all night, and
+therefore hoped that I might get through some little time in sleeping,
+but the mosquitoes attacked me the moment I laid myself down. In other
+places mosquitoes torment you only at night, but at Suez they buzz around
+you, without ceasing, at all hours. A scorching sun was blazing
+overhead, and absolutely forbade me to leave the house. I stood for a
+while in the verandah, looking down at the few small vessels which were
+moored to the quay, but there was no life in them; not a sail was set,
+not a boatman or a sailor was to be seen, and the very water looked as
+though it were hot. I could fancy the glare of the sun was cracking the
+paint on the gunwales of the boats. I was the only visitor in the house,
+and during all the long hours of the morning it seemed as though the
+servants had deserted it.
+
+I dined at four; not that I chose that hour, but because no choice was
+given to me. At the hotels in Egypt one has to dine at an hour fixed by
+the landlord, and no entreaties will suffice to obtain a meal at any
+other. So at four I dined, and after dinner was again reduced to
+despair.
+
+I was sitting in the cavernous chamber almost mad at the prospect of the
+week before me, when I heard a noise as of various feet in the passage
+leading from the quadrangle. Was it possible that other human beings
+were coming into the hotel—Christian human beings at whom I could look,
+whose voices I could hear, whose words I could understand, and with whom
+I might possibly associate? I did not move, however, for I was still
+hot, and I knew that my chances might be better if I did not show myself
+over eager for companionship at the first moment. The door, however, was
+soon opened, and I saw that at least in one respect I was destined to be
+disappointed. The strangers who were entering the room were not
+Christians—if I might judge by the nature of the garments in which they
+were clothed.
+
+The door had been opened by the man in an old dressing-gown and slippers,
+whom I had seen sitting inside the gate. He was the Arab porter of the
+hotel, and as he marshalled the new visitors into the room, I heard him
+pronounce some sound similar to my own name, and perceived that he
+pointed me out to the most prominent person of those who then entered the
+apartment. This was a stout, portly man, dressed from head to foot in
+Eastern costume of the brightest colours. He wore, not only the red fez
+cap which everybody wears—even I had accustomed myself to a fez cap—but a
+turban round it, of which the voluminous folds were snowy white. His
+face was fat, but not the less grave, and the lower part of it was
+enveloped in a magnificent beard, which projected round it on all sides,
+and touched his breast as he walked. It was a grand grizzled beard, and
+I acknowledged at a moment that it added a singular dignity to the
+appearance of the stranger. His flowing robe was of bright colours, and
+the under garment which fitted close round his breast, and then
+descended, becoming beneath his sash a pair of the loosest pantaloons—I
+might, perhaps, better describe them as bags—was a rich tawny silk.
+These loose pantaloons were tied close round his legs, above the ankle,
+and over a pair of scrupulously white stockings, and on his feet he wore
+a pair of yellow slippers. It was manifest to me at a glance that the
+Arab gentleman was got up in his best raiment, and that no expense had
+been spared on his suit.
+
+And here I cannot but make a remark on the personal bearing of these
+Arabs. Whether they be Arabs or Turks, or Copts, it is always the same.
+They are a mean, false, cowardly race, I believe. They will bear blows,
+and respect the man who gives them. Fear goes further with them than
+love, and between man and man they understand nothing of forbearance. He
+who does not exact from them all that he can exact is simply a fool in
+their estimation, to the extent of that which he loses. In all this,
+they are immeasurably inferior to us who have had Christian teaching.
+But in one thing they beat us. They always know how to maintain their
+personal dignity.
+
+Look at my friend and partner Judkins, as he stands with his hands in his
+trousers pockets at the door of our house in Friday Street. What can be
+meaner than his appearance? He is a stumpy, short, podgy man; but then
+so also was my Arab friend at Suez. Judkins is always dressed from head
+to foot in a decent black cloth suit; his coat is ever a dress coat, and
+is neither old nor shabby. On his head he carries a shining new silk
+hat, such as fashion in our metropolis demands. Judkins is rather a
+dandy than otherwise, piquing himself somewhat on his apparel. And yet
+how mean is his appearance, as compared with the appearance of that
+Arab;—how mean also is his gait, how ignoble his step! Judkins could buy
+that Arab out four times over, and hardly feel the loss; and yet were
+they to enter a room together, Judkins would know and acknowledge by his
+look that he was the inferior personage. Not the less, should a personal
+quarrel arise between them, would Judkins punch the Arab’s head; ay, and
+reduce him to utter ignominy at his feet.
+
+Judkins would break his heart in despair rather than not return a blow;
+whereas the Arab would put up with any indignity of that sort.
+Nevertheless Judkins is altogether deficient in personal dignity. I
+often thought, as the hours hung in Egypt, whether it might not be
+practicable to introduce an oriental costume in Friday Street.
+
+At this moment, as the Arab gentleman entered the cavernous coffee-room,
+I felt that I was greatly the inferior personage. He was followed by
+four or five others, dressed somewhat as himself; though by no means in
+such magnificent colours, and by one gentleman in a coat and trousers.
+The gentleman in the coat and trousers came last, and I could see that he
+was one of the least of the number. As for myself, I felt almost
+overawed by the dignity of the stout party in the turban, and seeing that
+he came directly across the room to the place where I was seated, I got
+upon my legs and made him some sign of Christian obeisance.
+
+I am a little man, and not podgy, as is Judkins, and I flatter myself
+that I showed more deportment, at any rate, than he would have exhibited.
+
+I made, as I have said, some Christian obeisance. I bobbed my head, that
+is, rubbing my hands together the while, and expressed an opinion that it
+was a fine day. But if I was civil, as I hope I was, the Arab was much
+more so. He advanced till he was about six paces from me, then placed
+his right hand open upon his silken breast,—and inclining forward with
+his whole body, made to me a bow which Judkins never could accomplish.
+The turban and the flowing robe might be possible in Friday Street, but
+of what avail would be the outer garments and mere symbols, if the inner
+sentiment of personal dignity were wanting? I have often since tried it
+when alone, but I could never accomplish anything like that bow. The
+Arab with the flowing robe bowed, and the other Arabs all bowed also; and
+after that the Christian gentleman with the coat and trousers made a leg.
+I made a leg also, rubbing my hands again, and added to my former remarks
+that it was rather hot.
+
+“Dat berry true,” said the porter in the dirty dressing-gown, who stood
+by. I could see at a glance that the manner of that porter towards me
+was greatly altered, and I began to feel comforted in my wretchedness.
+Perhaps a Christian from Friday Street, with plenty of money in his
+pockets, would stand in higher esteem at Suez than at Cairo. If so, that
+alone would go far to atone for the apparent wretchedness of the place.
+At Cairo I had not received that attention which had certainly been due
+to me as the second partner in the flourishing Manchester house of
+Grimes, Walker, and Judkins.
+
+But now, as my friend with the beard again bowed to me, I felt that this
+deficiency was to be made up. It was clear, however, that this new
+acquaintance, though I liked the manner of it, would be attended with
+considerable inconvenience, for the Arab gentleman commenced an address
+to me in French. It has always been to me a source of sorrow that my
+parents did not teach me the French language, and this deficiency on my
+part has given rise to an incredible amount of supercilious overbearing
+pretension on the part of Judkins—who after all can hardly do more than
+translate a correspondent’s letter. I do not believe that he could have
+understood that Arab’s oration, but at any rate I did not. He went on to
+the end, however, speaking for some three or four minutes, and then again
+he bowed. If I could only have learned that bow, I might still have been
+greater than Judkins with all his French.
+
+“I am very sorry,” said I, “but I don’t exactly follow the French
+language when it is spoken.”
+
+“Ah! no French!” said the Arab in very broken English, “dat is one
+sorrow.” How is it that these fellows learn all languages under the sun?
+I afterwards found that this man could talk Italian, and Turkish, and
+Armenian fluently, and say a few words in German, as he could also in
+English. I could not ask for my dinner in any other language than
+English, if it were to save me from starvation. Then he called to the
+Christian gentleman in the pantaloons, and, as far as I could understand,
+made over to him the duty of interpreting between us. There seemed,
+however, to be one difficulty in the way of this being carried on with
+efficiency. The Christian gentleman could not speak English himself. He
+knew of it perhaps something more than did the Arab, but by no means
+enough to enable us to have a fluent conversation.
+
+And had the interpreter—who turned out to be an Italian from Trieste,
+attached to the Austrian Consulate at Alexandria—had the interpreter
+spoken English with the greatest ease, I should have had considerable
+difficulty in understanding and digesting in all its bearings, the
+proposition made to me. But before I proceed to the proposition, I must
+describe a ceremony which took place previous to its discussion. I had
+hardly observed, when first the procession entered the room, that one of
+my friend’s followers—my friend’s name, as I learned afterwards, was
+Mahmoud al Ackbar, and I will therefore call him Mahmoud—that one of
+Mahmoud’s followers bore in his arms a bundle of long sticks, and that
+another carried an iron pot and a tray. Such was the case, and these two
+followers came forward to perform their services, while I, having been
+literally pressed down on to the sofa by Mahmoud, watched them in their
+progress. Mahmoud also sat down, and not a word was spoken while the
+ceremony went on. The man with the sticks first placed on the ground two
+little pans—one at my feet, and then one at the feet of his master.
+After that he loosed an ornamented bag which he carried round his neck,
+and producing from it tobacco, proceeded to fill two pipes. This he did
+with the utmost gravity, and apparently with very peculiar care. The
+pipes had been already fixed at one end of the stick, and to the other
+end the man had fastened two large yellow balls. These, as I afterwards
+perceived, were mouth-pieces made of amber. Then he lit the pipes,
+drawing up the difficult smoke by long painful suckings at the
+mouthpiece, and then, when the work had become apparently easy, he handed
+one pipe to me, and the other to his master. The bowls he had first
+placed in the little pans on the ground.
+
+During all this time no word was spoken, and I was left altogether in the
+dark as to the cause which had produced this extraordinary courtesy.
+There was a stationary sofa—they called it there a divan—which was fixed
+into the corner of the room, and on one side of the angle sat Mahmoud al
+Ackbar, with his feet tucked under him, while I sat on the other. The
+remainder of the party stood around, and I felt so little master of the
+occasion, that I did not know whether it would become me to bid them be
+seated. I was not master of the entertainment. They were not my pipes.
+Nor was it my coffee, which I saw one of the followers preparing in a
+distant part of the room. And, indeed, I was much confused as to the
+management of the stick and amber mouth-piece with which I had been
+presented. With a cigar I am as much at home as any man in the City. I
+can nibble off the end of it, and smoke it to the last ash, when I am
+three parts asleep. But I had never before been invited to regale myself
+with such an instrument as this. What was I to do with that huge yellow
+ball? So I watched my new friend closely.
+
+It had manifestly been a part of his urbanity not to commence till I had
+done so, but seeing my difficulty he at last raised the ball to his mouth
+and sucked at it. I looked at him and envied the gravity of his
+countenance, and the dignity of his demeanour. I sucked also, but I made
+a sputtering noise, and must confess that I did not enjoy it. The smoke
+curled gracefully from his mouth and nostrils as he sat there in mute
+composure. I was mute as regarded speech, but I coughed as the smoke
+came from me in convulsive puffs. And then the attendant brought us
+coffee in little tin cups—black coffee, without sugar and full of grit,
+of which the berries had been only bruised, not ground. I took the cup
+and swallowed the mixture, for I could not refuse, but I wish that I
+might have asked for some milk and sugar. Nevertheless there was
+something very pleasing in the whole ceremony, and at last I began to
+find myself more at home with my pipe.
+
+When Mahmoud had exhausted his tobacco, and perceived that I also had
+ceased to puff forth smoke, he spoke in Italian to the interpreter, and
+the interpreter forthwith proceeded to explain to me the purport of this
+visit. This was done with much difficulty, for the interpreter’s stock
+of English was very scanty—but after awhile I understood, or thought I
+understood, as follows:—At some previous period of my existence I had
+done some deed which had given infinite satisfaction to Mahmoud al
+Ackbar. Whether, however, I had done it myself, or whether my father had
+done it, was not quite clear to me. My father, then some time deceased,
+had been a wharfinger at Liverpool, and it was quite possible that
+Mahmoud might have found himself at that port. Mahmoud had heard of my
+arrival in Egypt, and had been given to understand that I was coming to
+Suez—to carry myself away in the ship, as the interpreter phrased it.
+This I could not understand, but I let it pass. Having heard these
+agreeable tidings—and Mahmoud, sitting in the corner, bowed low to me as
+this was said—he had prepared for my acceptance a slight refection for
+the morrow, hoping that I would not carry myself away in the ship till
+this had been eaten. On this subject I soon made him quite at ease, and
+he then proceeded to explain that as there was a point of interest at
+Suez, Mahmoud was anxious that I should partake of the refection somewhat
+in the guise of a picnic, at the Well of Moses, over in Asia, on the
+other side of the head of the Red Sea. Mahmoud would provide a boat to
+take across the party in the morning, and camels on which we would return
+after sunset. Or else we would go and return on camels, or go on camels
+and return in the boat. Indeed any arrangement would be made that I
+preferred. If I was afraid of the heat, and disliked the open boat, I
+could be carried round in a litter. The provisions had already been sent
+over to the Well of Moses in the anticipation that I would not refuse
+this little request.
+
+I did not refuse it. Nothing could have been more agreeable to me than
+this plan of seeing something of the sights and wonders of this land,—and
+of this seeing them in good company. I had not heard of the Well of
+Moses before, but now that I learned that it was in Asia,—in another
+quarter of the globe, to be reached by a transit of the Red Sea, to be
+returned from by a journey on camels’ backs,—I burned with anxiety to
+visit its waters. What a story would this be for Judkins! This was, no
+doubt, the point at which the Israelites had passed. Of those waters had
+they drunk. I almost felt that I had already found one of Pharaoh’s
+chariot wheels. I readily gave my assent, and then, with much ceremony
+and many low salaams, Mahmoud and his attendant left me. “I am very glad
+that I came to Suez,” said I to myself.
+
+I did not sleep much that night, for the mosquitoes of Suez are very
+persevering; but I was saved from the agonising despair which these
+animals so frequently produce, by my agreeable thoughts as to Mahmoud al
+Ackbar. I will put it to any of my readers who have travelled, whether
+it is not a painful thing to find one’s-self regarded among strangers
+without any kindness or ceremonious courtesy. I had on this account been
+wretched at Cairo, but all this was to be made up to me at Suez. Nothing
+could be more pleasant than the whole conduct of Mahmoud al Ackbar, and I
+determined to take full advantage of it, not caring overmuch what might
+be the nature of those previous favours to which he had alluded. That
+was his look-out, and if he was satisfied, why should not I be so also?
+
+On the following morning I was dressed at six, and, looking out of my
+bed-room, I saw the boat in which we were to be wafted into Asia being
+brought up to the quay close under my window. It had been arranged that
+we should start early, so as to avoid the mid-day sun, breakfast in the
+boat,—Mahmoud in this way engaged to provide me with two refections,—take
+our rest at noon in a pavilion which had been built close upon the well
+of the patriarch, and then eat our dinner, and return riding upon camels
+in the cool of the evening. Nothing could sound more pleasant than such
+a plan; and knowing as I did that the hampers of provisions had already
+been sent over, I did not doubt that the table arrangements would be
+excellent. Even now, standing at my window, I could see a basket laden
+with long-necked bottles going into the boat, and became aware that we
+should not depend altogether for our morning repast on that gritty coffee
+which my friend Mahmoud’s followers prepared.
+
+I had promised to be ready at six, and having carefully completed my
+toilet, and put a clean collar and comb into my pocket ready for dinner,
+I descended to the great gateway and walked slowly round to the quay. As
+I passed out, the porter greeted me with a low obeisance, and walking on,
+I felt that I stepped the ground with a sort of dignity of which I had
+before been ignorant. It is not, as a rule, the man who gives grace and
+honour to the position, but the position which confers the grace and
+honour upon the man. I have often envied the solemn gravity and grand
+demeanour of the Lord Chancellor, as I have seen him on the bench; but I
+almost think that even Judkins would look grave and dignified under such
+a wig. Mahmoud al Ackbar had called upon me and done me honour, and I
+felt myself personally capable of sustaining before the people of Suez
+the honour which he had done me.
+
+As I walked forth with a proud step from beneath the portal, I perceived,
+looking down from the square along the street, that there was already
+some commotion in the town. I saw the flowing robes of many Arabs, with
+their backs turned towards me, and I thought that I observed the
+identical gown and turban of my friend Mahmoud on the back and head of a
+stout short man, who was hurrying round a corner in the distance. I felt
+sure that it was Mahmoud. Some of his servants had failed in their
+preparations, I said to myself, as I made my way round to the water’s
+edge. This was only another testimony how anxious he was to do me
+honour.
+
+I stood for a while on the edge of the quay looking into the boat, and
+admiring the comfortable cushions which were luxuriously arranged around
+the seats. The men who were at work did not know me, and I was
+unnoticed, but I should soon take my place upon the softest of those
+cushions. I walked slowly backwards and forwards on the quay, listening
+to a hum of voices that came to me from a distance. There was clearly
+something stirring in the town, and I felt certain that all the movement
+and all those distant voices were connected in some way with my
+expedition to the Well of Moses. At last there came a lad upon the walk
+dressed in Frank costume, and I asked him what was in the wind. He was a
+clerk attached to an English warehouse, and he told me that there had
+been an arrival from Cairo.
+
+He knew no more than that, but he had heard that the omnibuses had just
+come in. Could it be possible that Mahmoud al Ackbar had heard of
+another old acquaintance, and had gone to welcome him also?
+
+At first my ideas on the subject were altogether pleasant. I by no means
+wished to monopolise the delights of all those cushions, nor would it be
+to me a cause of sorrow that there should be some one to share with me
+the conversational powers of that interpreter. Should another guest be
+found, he might also be an Englishman, and I might thus form an
+acquaintance which would be desirable. Thinking of these things, I
+walked the quay for some minutes in a happy state of mind; but by degrees
+I became impatient, and by degrees also disturbed in my spirit. I
+observed that one of the Arab boatmen walked round from the vessel to the
+front of the hotel, and that on his return he looked at me—as I thought,
+not with courteous eyes. Then also I saw, or rather heard, some one in
+the verandah of the hotel above me, and was conscious that I was being
+viewed from thence. I walked and walked, and nobody came to me, and I
+perceived by my watch that it was seven o’clock. The noise, too, had
+come nearer and nearer, and I was now aware that wheels had been drawn up
+before the front door of the hotel, and that many voices were speaking
+there. It might be that Mahmoud should wait for some other friend, but
+why did he not send some one to inform me? And then, as I made a sudden
+turn at the end of the quay, I caught sight of the retreating legs of the
+Austrian interpreter, and I became aware that he had been sent down, and
+had gone away, afraid to speak to me. “What can I do?” said I to myself,
+“I can but keep my ground.” I owned that I feared to go round to the
+front of the hotel. So I still walked slowly up and down the length of
+the quay, and began to whistle to show that I was not uneasy. The Arab
+sailors looked at me uncomfortably, and from time to time some one peered
+at me round the corner. It was now fully half-past seven, and the sun
+was becoming hot in the heavens. Why did we not hasten to place
+ourselves beneath the awning in that boat.
+
+I had just made up my mind that I would go round to the front and
+penetrate this mystery, when, on turning, I saw approaching to me a man
+dressed at any rate like an English gentleman. As he came near to me, he
+raised his hat, and accosted me in our own language. “Mr. George Walker,
+I believe?” said he.
+
+“Yes,” said I, with some little attempt at a high demeanour,—“of the firm
+of Grimes, Walker, and Judkins, Friday Street, London.”
+
+“A most respectable house, I am sure,” said he. “I am afraid there has
+been a little mistake here.”
+
+“No mistake as to the respectability of that house,” said I. I felt that
+I was again alone in the world, and that it was necessary that I should
+support myself. Mahmoud al Ackbar had separated himself from me for
+ever. Of that I had no longer a doubt.
+
+“Oh, none at all,” said he. “But about this little expedition over the
+water;” and he pointed contemptuously to the boat. “There has been a
+mistake about that, Mr. Walker; I happen to be the English Vice-Consul
+here.”
+
+I took off my hat and bowed. It was the first time I had ever been
+addressed civilly by any English consular authority.
+
+“And they have made me get out of bed to come down here and explain all
+this to you.”
+
+“All what?” said I.
+
+“You are a man of the world, I know, and I’ll just tell it you plainly.
+My old friend, Mahmoud al Ackbar, has mistaken you for Sir George Walker,
+the new Lieutenant-Governor of Pegu. Sir George Walker is here now; he
+has come this morning; and Mahmoud is ashamed to face you after what has
+occurred. If you won’t object to withdraw with me into the hotel, I’ll
+explain it all.”
+
+I felt as though a thunderbolt had fallen; and I must say, that even up
+to this day I think that the Consul might have been a little less abrupt.
+“We can get in here,” said he, evidently in a hurry, and pointing to a
+small door which opened out from one corner of the house to the quay.
+What could I do but follow him? I did follow him, and in a few words
+learned the remainder of the story. When he had once withdrawn me from
+the public walk he seemed but little anxious about the rest, and soon
+left me again alone. The facts, as far as I could learn them, were
+simply these.
+
+Sir George Walker, who was now going out to Pegu as Governor, had been in
+India before, commanding an army there. I had never heard of him before,
+and had made no attempt to pass myself off as his relative. Nobody could
+have been more innocent than I was—or have received worse usage. I have
+as much right to the name as he has. Well; when he was in India before,
+he had taken the city of Begum after a terrible siege—Begum, I think the
+Consul called it; and Mahmoud had been there, having been, it seems, a
+great man at Begum, and Sir George had spared him and his money; and in
+this way the whole thing had come to pass. There was no further
+explanation than that. The rest of it was all transparent. Mahmoud,
+having heard my name from the porter, had hurried down to invite me to
+his party. So far so good. But why had he been afraid to face me in the
+morning? And, seeing that the fault had all been his, why had he not
+asked me to join the expedition? Sir George and I may, after all, be
+cousins. But, coward as he was, he had been afraid of me. When they
+found that I was on the quay, they had been afraid of me, not knowing how
+to get rid of me. I wish that I had kept the quay all day, and stared
+them down one by one as they entered the boat. But I was down in the
+mouth, and when the Consul left me, I crept wearily back to my bedroom.
+
+And the Consul did leave me almost immediately. A faint hope had, at one
+time, come upon me that he would have asked me to breakfast. Had he done
+so, I should have felt it as a full compensation for all that I had
+suffered. I am not an exacting man, but I own that I like civility. In
+Friday Street I can command it, and in Friday Street for the rest of my
+life will I remain. From this Consul I received no civility. As soon as
+he had got me out of the way and spoken the few words which he had to
+say, he again raised his hat and left me. I also again raised mine, and
+then crept up to my bed-room.
+
+From my window, standing a little behind the white curtain, I could see
+the whole embarkation. There was Mahmoud al Ackbar, looking indeed a
+little hot, but still going through his work with all that excellence of
+deportment which had graced him on the preceding evening. Had his foot
+slipped, and had he fallen backwards into that shallow water, my spirit
+would, I confess, have been relieved. But, on the contrary, everything
+went well with him. There was the real Sir George, my namesake and
+perhaps my cousin, as fresh as paint, cool from the bath which he had
+been taking while I had been walking on that terrace. How is it that
+these governors and commanders-in-chief go through such a deal of work
+without fagging? It was not yet two hours since he was jolting about in
+that omnibus-box, and there he had been all night. I could not have gone
+off to the Well of Moses immediately on my arrival. It’s the dignity of
+the position that does it. I have long known that the head of a firm
+must never count on a mere clerk to get through as much work as he could
+do himself. It’s the interest in the matter that supports the man.
+
+They went, and Sir George, as I was well assured, had never heard a word
+about me. Had he done so, is it probable that he would have requested my
+attendance?
+
+But Mahmoud and his followers no doubt kept their own counsel as to that
+little mistake. There they went, and the gentle rippling breeze filled
+their sail pleasantly, as the boat moved away into the bay. I felt no
+spite against any of them but Mahmoud. Why had he avoided me with such
+cowardice? I could still see them when the morning tchibouk was handed
+to Sir George; and, though I wished him no harm, I did envy him as he lay
+there reclining luxuriously upon the cushions.
+
+A more wretched day than that I never spent in my life. As I went in and
+out, the porter at the gate absolutely scoffed at me. Once I made up my
+mind to complain within the house. But what could I have said of the
+dirty Arab? They would have told me that it was his religion, or a
+national observance, or meant for a courtesy. What can a man do, in a
+strange country, when he is told that a native spits in his face by way
+of civility? I bore it, I bore it—like a man; and sighed for the
+comforts of Friday Street.
+
+As to one matter, I made up my mind on that day, and I fully carried out
+my purpose on the next: I would go across to the Well of Moses in a boat.
+I would visit the coasts of Asia. And I would ride back into Africa on a
+camel. Though I did it alone, I would have my day’s pleasuring. I had
+money in my pocket, and, though it might cost me £20, I would see all
+that my namesake had seen. It did cost me the best part of £20; and as
+for the pleasuring, I cannot say much for it.
+
+I went to bed early that night, having concluded my bargain for the
+morrow with a rapacious Arab who spoke English. I went to bed early in
+order to escape the returning party, and was again on the quay at six the
+next morning. On this occasion, I stepped boldly into the boat the very
+moment that I came along the shore. There is nothing in the world like
+paying for what you use. I saw myself to the bottle of brandy and the
+cold meat, and acknowledged that a cigar out of my own case would suit me
+better than that long stick. The long stick might do very well for a
+Governor of Pegu, but would be highly inconvenient in Friday Street.
+
+Well, I am not going to give an account of my day’s journey here, though
+perhaps I may do so some day. I did go to the Well of Moses—if a small
+dirty pool of salt water, lying high above the sands, can be called a
+well; I did eat my dinner in the miserable ruined cottage which they
+graced by the name of a pavilion; and, alas for my poor bones! I did ride
+home upon a camel. If Sir George did so early, and started for Pegu the
+next morning—and I was informed such was the fact—he must have been made
+of iron. I laid in bed the whole day suffering greviously; but I was
+told that on such a journey I should have slakened my throat with
+oranges, and not with brandy.
+
+I survived those four terrible days which remained to me at Suez, and
+after another month was once again in Friday Street. I suffered greatly
+on the occasion; but it is some consolation to me to reflect that I
+smoked a pipe of peace with Mahmoud al Ackbar; that I saw the hero of
+Begum while journeying out to new triumphs at Pegu; that I sailed into
+Asia in my own yacht—hired for the occasion; and that I rode back into
+Africa on a camel. Nor can Judkins, with all his ill-nature, rob me of
+these remembrances.
+
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GEORGE WALKER AT SUEZ***
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, George Walker at Suez, by Anthony Trollope
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+Title: George Walker at Suez
+
+
+Author: Anthony Trollope
+
+
+
+Release Date: January 16, 2015 [eBook #3718]
+[This file was first posted on August 7, 2001]
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+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GEORGE WALKER AT SUEZ***
+</pre>
+<p>Transcribed from the 1864 Chapman and Hall &ldquo;Tales of All
+Countries&rdquo; edition by David Price, email
+ccx074@pglaf.org</p>
+<h1>GEORGE WALKER AT SUEZ.</h1>
+<p><span class="smcap">Of</span> all the spots on the
+world&rsquo;s surface that I, George Walker, of Friday Street,
+London, have ever visited, Suez in Egypt, at the head of the Red
+Sea, is by far the vilest, the most unpleasant, and the least
+interesting.&nbsp; There are no women there, no water, and no
+vegetation.&nbsp; It is surrounded, and indeed often filled, by a
+world of sand.&nbsp; A scorching sun is always overhead; and one
+is domiciled in a huge cavernous hotel, which seems to have been
+made purposely destitute of all the comforts of civilised
+life.&nbsp; Nevertheless, in looking back upon the week of my
+life which I spent there I always enjoy a certain sort of
+triumph;&mdash;or rather, upon one day of that week, which lends
+a sort of halo not only to my sojourn at Suez, but to the whole
+period of my residence in Egypt.</p>
+<p>I am free to confess that I am not a great man, and that, at
+any rate in the earlier part of my career, I had a hankering
+after the homage which is paid to greatness.&nbsp; I would fain
+have been a popular orator, feeding myself on the incense
+tendered to me by thousands; or failing that, a man born to
+power, whom those around him were compelled to respect, and
+perhaps to fear.&nbsp; I am not ashamed to acknowledge this, and
+I believe that most of my neighbours in Friday Street would own
+as much were they as candid and open-hearted as myself.</p>
+<p>It is now some time since I was recommended to pass the first
+four months of the year in Cairo because I had a
+sore-throat.&nbsp; The doctor may have been right, but I shall
+never divest myself of the idea that my partners wished to be rid
+of me while they made certain changes in the management of the
+firm.&nbsp; They would not otherwise have shown such interest
+every time I blew my nose or relieved my huskiness by a slight
+cough;&mdash;they would not have been so intimate with that
+surgeon from St. Bartholomew&rsquo;s who dined with them twice at
+the Albion; nor would they have gone to work directly that my
+back was turned, and have done those very things which they could
+not have done had I remained at home.&nbsp; Be that as it may, I
+was frightened and went to Cairo, and while there I made a trip
+to Suez for a week.</p>
+<p>I was not happy at Cairo, for I knew nobody there, and the
+people at the hotel were, as I thought, uncivil.&nbsp; It seemed
+to me as though I were allowed to go in and out merely by
+sufferance; and yet I paid my bill regularly every week.&nbsp;
+The house was full of company, but the company was made up of
+parties of twos and threes, and they all seemed to have their own
+friends.&nbsp; I did make attempts to overcome that terrible
+British exclusiveness, that noli me tangere with which an
+Englishman arms himself; and in which he thinks it necessary to
+envelop his wife; but it was in vain, and I found myself sitting
+down to breakfast and dinner, day after day, as much alone as I
+should do if I called for a chop at a separate table in the
+Cathedral Coffee-house.&nbsp; And yet at breakfast and dinner I
+made one of an assemblage of thirty or forty people.&nbsp; That I
+thought dull.</p>
+<p>But as I stood one morning on the steps before the hotel,
+bethinking myself that my throat was as well as ever I remembered
+it to be, I was suddenly slapped on the back.&nbsp; Never in my
+life did I feel a more pleasant sensation, or turn round with
+more unaffected delight to return a friend&rsquo;s
+greeting.&nbsp; It was as though a cup of water had been handed
+to me in the desert.&nbsp; I knew that a cargo of passengers for
+Australia had reached Cairo that morning, and were to be passed
+on to Suez as soon as the railway would take them, and did not
+therefore expect that the greeting had come from any sojourner in
+Egypt.&nbsp; I should perhaps have explained that the even tenor
+of our life at the hotel was disturbed some four times a month by
+a flight through Cairo of a flock of travellers, who like locusts
+eat up all that there was eatable at the Inn for the day.&nbsp;
+They sat down at the same tables with us, never mixing with us,
+having their separate interests and hopes, and being often, as I
+thought, somewhat loud and almost selfish in the expression of
+them.&nbsp; These flocks consisted of passengers passing and
+repassing by the overland route to and from India and Australia;
+and had I nothing else to tell, I should delight to describe all
+that I watched of their habits and manners&mdash;the outward
+bound being so different in their traits from their brethren on
+their return.&nbsp; But I have to tell of my own triumph at Suez,
+and must therefore hasten on to say that on turning round quickly
+with my outstretched hand, I found it clasped by John
+Robinson.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Well, Robinson, is this you?&rdquo;&nbsp;
+&ldquo;Holloa, Walker, what are you doing here?&rdquo;&nbsp; That
+of course was the style of greeting.&nbsp; Elsewhere I should not
+have cared much to meet John Robinson, for he was a man who had
+never done well in the world.&nbsp; He had been in business and
+connected with a fairly good house in Sise Lane, but he had
+married early, and things had not exactly gone well with
+him.&nbsp; I don&rsquo;t think the house broke, but he did; and
+so he was driven to take himself and five children off to
+Australia.&nbsp; Elsewhere I should not have cared to come across
+him, but I was positively glad to be slapped on the back by
+anybody on that landing-place in front of Shepheard&rsquo;s Hotel
+at Cairo.</p>
+<p>I soon learned that Robinson with his wife and children, and
+indeed with all the rest of the Australian cargo, were to be
+passed on to Suez that afternoon, and after a while I agreed to
+accompany their party.&nbsp; I had made up my mind, on coming out
+from England, that I would see all the wonders of Egypt, and
+hitherto I had seen nothing.&nbsp; I did ride on one day some
+fifteen miles on a donkey to see the petrified forest; but the
+guide, who called himself a dragoman, took me wrong or cheated me
+in some way.&nbsp; We rode half the day over a stony, sandy
+plain, seeing nothing, with a terrible wind that filled my mouth
+with grit, and at last the dragoman got off.&nbsp;
+&ldquo;Dere,&rdquo; said he, picking up a small bit of stone,
+&ldquo;Dis is de forest made of stone.&nbsp; Carry that
+home.&rdquo;&nbsp; Then we turned round and rode back to
+Cairo.&nbsp; My chief observation as to the country was
+this&mdash;that whichever way we went, the wind blew into our
+teeth.&nbsp; The day&rsquo;s work cost me five-and-twenty
+shillings, and since that I had not as yet made any other
+expedition.&nbsp; I was therefore glad of an opportunity of going
+to Suez, and of making the journey in company with an
+acquaintance.</p>
+<p>At that time the railway was open, as far as I remember,
+nearly half the way from Cairo to Suez.&nbsp; It did not run four
+or five times a day, as railways do in other countries, but four
+or five times a month.&nbsp; In fact, it only carried passengers
+on the arrival of these flocks passing between England and her
+Eastern possessions.&nbsp; There were trains passing backwards
+and forwards constantly, as I perceived in walking to and from
+the station; but, as I learned, they carried nothing but the
+labourers working on the line, and the water sent into the Desert
+for their use.&nbsp; It struck me forcibly at the time that I
+should not have liked to have money in that investment.</p>
+<p>Well; I went with Robinson to Suez.&nbsp; The journey, like
+everything else in Egypt, was sandy, hot, and unpleasant.&nbsp;
+The railway carriages were pretty fair, and we had room enough;
+but even in them the dust was a great nuisance.&nbsp; We
+travelled about ten miles an hour, and stopped about an hour at
+every ten miles.&nbsp; This was tedious, but we had cigars with
+us and a trifle of brandy and water; and in this manner the
+railway journey wore itself away.&nbsp; In the middle of the
+night, however, we were moved from the railway carriages into
+omnibuses, as they were called, and then I was not
+comfortable.&nbsp; These omnibuses were wooden boxes, placed each
+upon a pair of wheels, and supposed to be capable of carrying six
+passengers.&nbsp; I was thrust into one with Robinson, his wife
+and five children, and immediately began to repent of my
+good-nature in accompanying them.&nbsp; To each vehicle were
+attached four horses or mules, and I must acknowledge that as on
+the railway they went as slow as possible, so now in these
+conveyances, dragged through the sand, they went as fast as the
+beasts could be made to gallop.&nbsp; I remember the Fox Tally-ho
+coach on the Birmingham road when Boyce drove it, but as regards
+pace the Fox Tally-ho was nothing to these machines in
+Egypt.&nbsp; On the first going off I was jolted right on to Mrs.
+R. and her infant; and for a long time that lady thought that the
+child had been squeezed out of its proper shape; but at last we
+arrived at Suez, and the baby seemed to me to be all right when
+it was handed down into the boat at Suez.</p>
+<p>The Robinsons were allowed time to breakfast at that cavernous
+hotel&mdash;which looked to me like a scheme to save the expense
+of the passengers&rsquo; meal on board the ship&mdash;and then
+they were off.&nbsp; I shook hands with him heartily as I parted
+with him at the quay, and wished him well through all his
+troubles.&nbsp; A man who takes a wife and five young children
+out into a colony, and that with his pockets but indifferently
+lined, certainly has his troubles before him.&nbsp; So he has at
+home, no doubt; but, judging for myself, I should always prefer
+sticking to the old ship as long as there is a bag of biscuits in
+the locker.&nbsp; Poor Robinson!&nbsp; I have never heard a word
+of him or his since that day, and sincerely trust that the baby
+was none the worse for the little accident in the box.</p>
+<p>And now I had the prospect of a week before me at Suez, and
+the Robinsons had not been gone half an hour before I began to
+feel that I should have been better off even at Cairo.&nbsp; I
+secured a bedroom at the hotel&mdash;I might have secured sixty
+bedrooms had I wanted them&mdash;and then went out and stood at
+the front door, or gate.&nbsp; It is a large house, built round a
+quadrangle, looking with one front towards the head of the Red
+Sea, and with the other into and on a sandy, dead-looking, open
+square.&nbsp; There I stood for ten minutes, and finding that it
+was too hot to go forth, returned to the long cavernous room in
+which we had breakfasted.&nbsp; In that long cavernous room I was
+destined to eat all my meals for the next six days.&nbsp; Now at
+Cairo I could, at any rate, see my fellow-creatures at their
+food.&nbsp; So I lit a cigar, and began to wonder whether I could
+survive the week.&nbsp; It was now clear to me that I had done a
+very rash thing in coming to Suez with the Robinsons.</p>
+<p>Somebody about the place had asked me my name, and I had told
+it plainly&mdash;George Walker.&nbsp; I never was ashamed of my
+name yet, and never had cause to be.&nbsp; I believe at this day
+it will go as far in Friday Street as any other.&nbsp; A man may
+be popular, or he may not.&nbsp; That depends mostly on
+circumstances which are in themselves trifling.&nbsp; But the
+value of his name depends on the way in which he is known at his
+bank.&nbsp; I have never dealt in tea spoons or gravy spoons, but
+my name will go as far as another name.&nbsp; &ldquo;George
+Walker,&rdquo; I answered, therefore, in a tone of some little
+authority, to the man who asked me, and who sat inside the gate
+of the hotel in an old dressing-gown and slippers.</p>
+<p>That was a melancholy day with me, and twenty times before
+dinner did I wish myself back at Cairo.&nbsp; I had been
+travelling all night, and therefore hoped that I might get
+through some little time in sleeping, but the mosquitoes attacked
+me the moment I laid myself down.&nbsp; In other places
+mosquitoes torment you only at night, but at Suez they buzz
+around you, without ceasing, at all hours.&nbsp; A scorching sun
+was blazing overhead, and absolutely forbade me to leave the
+house.&nbsp; I stood for a while in the verandah, looking down at
+the few small vessels which were moored to the quay, but there
+was no life in them; not a sail was set, not a boatman or a
+sailor was to be seen, and the very water looked as though it
+were hot.&nbsp; I could fancy the glare of the sun was cracking
+the paint on the gunwales of the boats.&nbsp; I was the only
+visitor in the house, and during all the long hours of the
+morning it seemed as though the servants had deserted it.</p>
+<p>I dined at four; not that I chose that hour, but because no
+choice was given to me.&nbsp; At the hotels in Egypt one has to
+dine at an hour fixed by the landlord, and no entreaties will
+suffice to obtain a meal at any other.&nbsp; So at four I dined,
+and after dinner was again reduced to despair.</p>
+<p>I was sitting in the cavernous chamber almost mad at the
+prospect of the week before me, when I heard a noise as of
+various feet in the passage leading from the quadrangle.&nbsp;
+Was it possible that other human beings were coming into the
+hotel&mdash;Christian human beings at whom I could look, whose
+voices I could hear, whose words I could understand, and with
+whom I might possibly associate?&nbsp; I did not move, however,
+for I was still hot, and I knew that my chances might be better
+if I did not show myself over eager for companionship at the
+first moment.&nbsp; The door, however, was soon opened, and I saw
+that at least in one respect I was destined to be
+disappointed.&nbsp; The strangers who were entering the room were
+not Christians&mdash;if I might judge by the nature of the
+garments in which they were clothed.</p>
+<p>The door had been opened by the man in an old dressing-gown
+and slippers, whom I had seen sitting inside the gate.&nbsp; He
+was the Arab porter of the hotel, and as he marshalled the new
+visitors into the room, I heard him pronounce some sound similar
+to my own name, and perceived that he pointed me out to the most
+prominent person of those who then entered the apartment.&nbsp;
+This was a stout, portly man, dressed from head to foot in
+Eastern costume of the brightest colours.&nbsp; He wore, not only
+the red fez cap which everybody wears&mdash;even I had accustomed
+myself to a fez cap&mdash;but a turban round it, of which the
+voluminous folds were snowy white.&nbsp; His face was fat, but
+not the less grave, and the lower part of it was enveloped in a
+magnificent beard, which projected round it on all sides, and
+touched his breast as he walked.&nbsp; It was a grand grizzled
+beard, and I acknowledged at a moment that it added a singular
+dignity to the appearance of the stranger.&nbsp; His flowing robe
+was of bright colours, and the under garment which fitted close
+round his breast, and then descended, becoming beneath his sash a
+pair of the loosest pantaloons&mdash;I might, perhaps, better
+describe them as bags&mdash;was a rich tawny silk.&nbsp; These
+loose pantaloons were tied close round his legs, above the ankle,
+and over a pair of scrupulously white stockings, and on his feet
+he wore a pair of yellow slippers.&nbsp; It was manifest to me at
+a glance that the Arab gentleman was got up in his best raiment,
+and that no expense had been spared on his suit.</p>
+<p>And here I cannot but make a remark on the personal bearing of
+these Arabs.&nbsp; Whether they be Arabs or Turks, or Copts, it
+is always the same.&nbsp; They are a mean, false, cowardly race,
+I believe.&nbsp; They will bear blows, and respect the man who
+gives them.&nbsp; Fear goes further with them than love, and
+between man and man they understand nothing of forbearance.&nbsp;
+He who does not exact from them all that he can exact is simply a
+fool in their estimation, to the extent of that which he
+loses.&nbsp; In all this, they are immeasurably inferior to us
+who have had Christian teaching.&nbsp; But in one thing they beat
+us.&nbsp; They always know how to maintain their personal
+dignity.</p>
+<p>Look at my friend and partner Judkins, as he stands with his
+hands in his trousers pockets at the door of our house in Friday
+Street.&nbsp; What can be meaner than his appearance?&nbsp; He is
+a stumpy, short, podgy man; but then so also was my Arab friend
+at Suez.&nbsp; Judkins is always dressed from head to foot in a
+decent black cloth suit; his coat is ever a dress coat, and is
+neither old nor shabby.&nbsp; On his head he carries a shining
+new silk hat, such as fashion in our metropolis demands.&nbsp;
+Judkins is rather a dandy than otherwise, piquing himself
+somewhat on his apparel.&nbsp; And yet how mean is his
+appearance, as compared with the appearance of that
+Arab;&mdash;how mean also is his gait, how ignoble his
+step!&nbsp; Judkins could buy that Arab out four times over, and
+hardly feel the loss; and yet were they to enter a room together,
+Judkins would know and acknowledge by his look that he was the
+inferior personage.&nbsp; Not the less, should a personal quarrel
+arise between them, would Judkins punch the Arab&rsquo;s head;
+ay, and reduce him to utter ignominy at his feet.</p>
+<p>Judkins would break his heart in despair rather than not
+return a blow; whereas the Arab would put up with any indignity
+of that sort.&nbsp; Nevertheless Judkins is altogether deficient
+in personal dignity.&nbsp; I often thought, as the hours hung in
+Egypt, whether it might not be practicable to introduce an
+oriental costume in Friday Street.</p>
+<p>At this moment, as the Arab gentleman entered the cavernous
+coffee-room, I felt that I was greatly the inferior
+personage.&nbsp; He was followed by four or five others, dressed
+somewhat as himself; though by no means in such magnificent
+colours, and by one gentleman in a coat and trousers.&nbsp; The
+gentleman in the coat and trousers came last, and I could see
+that he was one of the least of the number.&nbsp; As for myself,
+I felt almost overawed by the dignity of the stout party in the
+turban, and seeing that he came directly across the room to the
+place where I was seated, I got upon my legs and made him some
+sign of Christian obeisance.</p>
+<p>I am a little man, and not podgy, as is Judkins, and I flatter
+myself that I showed more deportment, at any rate, than he would
+have exhibited.</p>
+<p>I made, as I have said, some Christian obeisance.&nbsp; I
+bobbed my head, that is, rubbing my hands together the while, and
+expressed an opinion that it was a fine day.&nbsp; But if I was
+civil, as I hope I was, the Arab was much more so.&nbsp; He
+advanced till he was about six paces from me, then placed his
+right hand open upon his silken breast,&mdash;and inclining
+forward with his whole body, made to me a bow which Judkins never
+could accomplish.&nbsp; The turban and the flowing robe might be
+possible in Friday Street, but of what avail would be the outer
+garments and mere symbols, if the inner sentiment of personal
+dignity were wanting?&nbsp; I have often since tried it when
+alone, but I could never accomplish anything like that bow.&nbsp;
+The Arab with the flowing robe bowed, and the other Arabs all
+bowed also; and after that the Christian gentleman with the coat
+and trousers made a leg.&nbsp; I made a leg also, rubbing my
+hands again, and added to my former remarks that it was rather
+hot.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Dat berry true,&rdquo; said the porter in the dirty
+dressing-gown, who stood by.&nbsp; I could see at a glance that
+the manner of that porter towards me was greatly altered, and I
+began to feel comforted in my wretchedness.&nbsp; Perhaps a
+Christian from Friday Street, with plenty of money in his
+pockets, would stand in higher esteem at Suez than at
+Cairo.&nbsp; If so, that alone would go far to atone for the
+apparent wretchedness of the place.&nbsp; At Cairo I had not
+received that attention which had certainly been due to me as the
+second partner in the flourishing Manchester house of Grimes,
+Walker, and Judkins.</p>
+<p>But now, as my friend with the beard again bowed to me, I felt
+that this deficiency was to be made up.&nbsp; It was clear,
+however, that this new acquaintance, though I liked the manner of
+it, would be attended with considerable inconvenience, for the
+Arab gentleman commenced an address to me in French.&nbsp; It has
+always been to me a source of sorrow that my parents did not
+teach me the French language, and this deficiency on my part has
+given rise to an incredible amount of supercilious overbearing
+pretension on the part of Judkins&mdash;who after all can hardly
+do more than translate a correspondent&rsquo;s letter.&nbsp; I do
+not believe that he could have understood that Arab&rsquo;s
+oration, but at any rate I did not.&nbsp; He went on to the end,
+however, speaking for some three or four minutes, and then again
+he bowed.&nbsp; If I could only have learned that bow, I might
+still have been greater than Judkins with all his French.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;I am very sorry,&rdquo; said I, &ldquo;but I
+don&rsquo;t exactly follow the French language when it is
+spoken.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Ah! no French!&rdquo; said the Arab in very broken
+English, &ldquo;dat is one sorrow.&rdquo;&nbsp; How is it that
+these fellows learn all languages under the sun?&nbsp; I
+afterwards found that this man could talk Italian, and Turkish,
+and Armenian fluently, and say a few words in German, as he could
+also in English.&nbsp; I could not ask for my dinner in any other
+language than English, if it were to save me from
+starvation.&nbsp; Then he called to the Christian gentleman in
+the pantaloons, and, as far as I could understand, made over to
+him the duty of interpreting between us.&nbsp; There seemed,
+however, to be one difficulty in the way of this being carried on
+with efficiency.&nbsp; The Christian gentleman could not speak
+English himself.&nbsp; He knew of it perhaps something more than
+did the Arab, but by no means enough to enable us to have a
+fluent conversation.</p>
+<p>And had the interpreter&mdash;who turned out to be an Italian
+from Trieste, attached to the Austrian Consulate at
+Alexandria&mdash;had the interpreter spoken English with the
+greatest ease, I should have had considerable difficulty in
+understanding and digesting in all its bearings, the proposition
+made to me.&nbsp; But before I proceed to the proposition, I must
+describe a ceremony which took place previous to its
+discussion.&nbsp; I had hardly observed, when first the
+procession entered the room, that one of my friend&rsquo;s
+followers&mdash;my friend&rsquo;s name, as I learned afterwards,
+was Mahmoud al Ackbar, and I will therefore call him
+Mahmoud&mdash;that one of Mahmoud&rsquo;s followers bore in his
+arms a bundle of long sticks, and that another carried an iron
+pot and a tray.&nbsp; Such was the case, and these two followers
+came forward to perform their services, while I, having been
+literally pressed down on to the sofa by Mahmoud, watched them in
+their progress.&nbsp; Mahmoud also sat down, and not a word was
+spoken while the ceremony went on.&nbsp; The man with the sticks
+first placed on the ground two little pans&mdash;one at my feet,
+and then one at the feet of his master.&nbsp; After that he
+loosed an ornamented bag which he carried round his neck, and
+producing from it tobacco, proceeded to fill two pipes.&nbsp;
+This he did with the utmost gravity, and apparently with very
+peculiar care.&nbsp; The pipes had been already fixed at one end
+of the stick, and to the other end the man had fastened two large
+yellow balls.&nbsp; These, as I afterwards perceived, were
+mouth-pieces made of amber.&nbsp; Then he lit the pipes, drawing
+up the difficult smoke by long painful suckings at the
+mouthpiece, and then, when the work had become apparently easy,
+he handed one pipe to me, and the other to his master.&nbsp; The
+bowls he had first placed in the little pans on the ground.</p>
+<p>During all this time no word was spoken, and I was left
+altogether in the dark as to the cause which had produced this
+extraordinary courtesy.&nbsp; There was a stationary
+sofa&mdash;they called it there a divan&mdash;which was fixed
+into the corner of the room, and on one side of the angle sat
+Mahmoud al Ackbar, with his feet tucked under him, while I sat on
+the other.&nbsp; The remainder of the party stood around, and I
+felt so little master of the occasion, that I did not know
+whether it would become me to bid them be seated.&nbsp; I was not
+master of the entertainment.&nbsp; They were not my pipes.&nbsp;
+Nor was it my coffee, which I saw one of the followers preparing
+in a distant part of the room.&nbsp; And, indeed, I was much
+confused as to the management of the stick and amber mouth-piece
+with which I had been presented.&nbsp; With a cigar I am as much
+at home as any man in the City.&nbsp; I can nibble off the end of
+it, and smoke it to the last ash, when I am three parts
+asleep.&nbsp; But I had never before been invited to regale
+myself with such an instrument as this.&nbsp; What was I to do
+with that huge yellow ball?&nbsp; So I watched my new friend
+closely.</p>
+<p>It had manifestly been a part of his urbanity not to commence
+till I had done so, but seeing my difficulty he at last raised
+the ball to his mouth and sucked at it.&nbsp; I looked at him and
+envied the gravity of his countenance, and the dignity of his
+demeanour.&nbsp; I sucked also, but I made a sputtering noise,
+and must confess that I did not enjoy it.&nbsp; The smoke curled
+gracefully from his mouth and nostrils as he sat there in mute
+composure.&nbsp; I was mute as regarded speech, but I coughed as
+the smoke came from me in convulsive puffs.&nbsp; And then the
+attendant brought us coffee in little tin cups&mdash;black
+coffee, without sugar and full of grit, of which the berries had
+been only bruised, not ground.&nbsp; I took the cup and swallowed
+the mixture, for I could not refuse, but I wish that I might have
+asked for some milk and sugar.&nbsp; Nevertheless there was
+something very pleasing in the whole ceremony, and at last I
+began to find myself more at home with my pipe.</p>
+<p>When Mahmoud had exhausted his tobacco, and perceived that I
+also had ceased to puff forth smoke, he spoke in Italian to the
+interpreter, and the interpreter forthwith proceeded to explain
+to me the purport of this visit.&nbsp; This was done with much
+difficulty, for the interpreter&rsquo;s stock of English was very
+scanty&mdash;but after awhile I understood, or thought I
+understood, as follows:&mdash;At some previous period of my
+existence I had done some deed which had given infinite
+satisfaction to Mahmoud al Ackbar.&nbsp; Whether, however, I had
+done it myself, or whether my father had done it, was not quite
+clear to me.&nbsp; My father, then some time deceased, had been a
+wharfinger at Liverpool, and it was quite possible that Mahmoud
+might have found himself at that port.&nbsp; Mahmoud had heard of
+my arrival in Egypt, and had been given to understand that I was
+coming to Suez&mdash;to carry myself away in the ship, as the
+interpreter phrased it.&nbsp; This I could not understand, but I
+let it pass.&nbsp; Having heard these agreeable tidings&mdash;and
+Mahmoud, sitting in the corner, bowed low to me as this was
+said&mdash;he had prepared for my acceptance a slight refection
+for the morrow, hoping that I would not carry myself away in the
+ship till this had been eaten.&nbsp; On this subject I soon made
+him quite at ease, and he then proceeded to explain that as there
+was a point of interest at Suez, Mahmoud was anxious that I
+should partake of the refection somewhat in the guise of a
+picnic, at the Well of Moses, over in Asia, on the other side of
+the head of the Red Sea.&nbsp; Mahmoud would provide a boat to
+take across the party in the morning, and camels on which we
+would return after sunset.&nbsp; Or else we would go and return
+on camels, or go on camels and return in the boat.&nbsp; Indeed
+any arrangement would be made that I preferred.&nbsp; If I was
+afraid of the heat, and disliked the open boat, I could be
+carried round in a litter.&nbsp; The provisions had already been
+sent over to the Well of Moses in the anticipation that I would
+not refuse this little request.</p>
+<p>I did not refuse it.&nbsp; Nothing could have been more
+agreeable to me than this plan of seeing something of the sights
+and wonders of this land,&mdash;and of this seeing them in good
+company.&nbsp; I had not heard of the Well of Moses before, but
+now that I learned that it was in Asia,&mdash;in another quarter
+of the globe, to be reached by a transit of the Red Sea, to be
+returned from by a journey on camels&rsquo; backs,&mdash;I burned
+with anxiety to visit its waters.&nbsp; What a story would this
+be for Judkins!&nbsp; This was, no doubt, the point at which the
+Israelites had passed.&nbsp; Of those waters had they
+drunk.&nbsp; I almost felt that I had already found one of
+Pharaoh&rsquo;s chariot wheels.&nbsp; I readily gave my assent,
+and then, with much ceremony and many low salaams, Mahmoud and
+his attendant left me.&nbsp; &ldquo;I am very glad that I came to
+Suez,&rdquo; said I to myself.</p>
+<p>I did not sleep much that night, for the mosquitoes of Suez
+are very persevering; but I was saved from the agonising despair
+which these animals so frequently produce, by my agreeable
+thoughts as to Mahmoud al Ackbar.&nbsp; I will put it to any of
+my readers who have travelled, whether it is not a painful thing
+to find one&rsquo;s-self regarded among strangers without any
+kindness or ceremonious courtesy.&nbsp; I had on this account
+been wretched at Cairo, but all this was to be made up to me at
+Suez.&nbsp; Nothing could be more pleasant than the whole conduct
+of Mahmoud al Ackbar, and I determined to take full advantage of
+it, not caring overmuch what might be the nature of those
+previous favours to which he had alluded.&nbsp; That was his
+look-out, and if he was satisfied, why should not I be so
+also?</p>
+<p>On the following morning I was dressed at six, and, looking
+out of my bed-room, I saw the boat in which we were to be wafted
+into Asia being brought up to the quay close under my
+window.&nbsp; It had been arranged that we should start early, so
+as to avoid the mid-day sun, breakfast in the boat,&mdash;Mahmoud
+in this way engaged to provide me with two refections,&mdash;take
+our rest at noon in a pavilion which had been built close upon
+the well of the patriarch, and then eat our dinner, and return
+riding upon camels in the cool of the evening.&nbsp; Nothing
+could sound more pleasant than such a plan; and knowing as I did
+that the hampers of provisions had already been sent over, I did
+not doubt that the table arrangements would be excellent.&nbsp;
+Even now, standing at my window, I could see a basket laden with
+long-necked bottles going into the boat, and became aware that we
+should not depend altogether for our morning repast on that
+gritty coffee which my friend Mahmoud&rsquo;s followers
+prepared.</p>
+<p>I had promised to be ready at six, and having carefully
+completed my toilet, and put a clean collar and comb into my
+pocket ready for dinner, I descended to the great gateway and
+walked slowly round to the quay.&nbsp; As I passed out, the
+porter greeted me with a low obeisance, and walking on, I felt
+that I stepped the ground with a sort of dignity of which I had
+before been ignorant.&nbsp; It is not, as a rule, the man who
+gives grace and honour to the position, but the position which
+confers the grace and honour upon the man.&nbsp; I have often
+envied the solemn gravity and grand demeanour of the Lord
+Chancellor, as I have seen him on the bench; but I almost think
+that even Judkins would look grave and dignified under such a
+wig.&nbsp; Mahmoud al Ackbar had called upon me and done me
+honour, and I felt myself personally capable of sustaining before
+the people of Suez the honour which he had done me.</p>
+<p>As I walked forth with a proud step from beneath the portal, I
+perceived, looking down from the square along the street, that
+there was already some commotion in the town.&nbsp; I saw the
+flowing robes of many Arabs, with their backs turned towards me,
+and I thought that I observed the identical gown and turban of my
+friend Mahmoud on the back and head of a stout short man, who was
+hurrying round a corner in the distance.&nbsp; I felt sure that
+it was Mahmoud.&nbsp; Some of his servants had failed in their
+preparations, I said to myself, as I made my way round to the
+water&rsquo;s edge.&nbsp; This was only another testimony how
+anxious he was to do me honour.</p>
+<p>I stood for a while on the edge of the quay looking into the
+boat, and admiring the comfortable cushions which were
+luxuriously arranged around the seats.&nbsp; The men who were at
+work did not know me, and I was unnoticed, but I should soon take
+my place upon the softest of those cushions.&nbsp; I walked
+slowly backwards and forwards on the quay, listening to a hum of
+voices that came to me from a distance.&nbsp; There was clearly
+something stirring in the town, and I felt certain that all the
+movement and all those distant voices were connected in some way
+with my expedition to the Well of Moses.&nbsp; At last there came
+a lad upon the walk dressed in Frank costume, and I asked him
+what was in the wind.&nbsp; He was a clerk attached to an English
+warehouse, and he told me that there had been an arrival from
+Cairo.</p>
+<p>He knew no more than that, but he had heard that the omnibuses
+had just come in.&nbsp; Could it be possible that Mahmoud al
+Ackbar had heard of another old acquaintance, and had gone to
+welcome him also?</p>
+<p>At first my ideas on the subject were altogether
+pleasant.&nbsp; I by no means wished to monopolise the delights
+of all those cushions, nor would it be to me a cause of sorrow
+that there should be some one to share with me the conversational
+powers of that interpreter.&nbsp; Should another guest be found,
+he might also be an Englishman, and I might thus form an
+acquaintance which would be desirable.&nbsp; Thinking of these
+things, I walked the quay for some minutes in a happy state of
+mind; but by degrees I became impatient, and by degrees also
+disturbed in my spirit.&nbsp; I observed that one of the Arab
+boatmen walked round from the vessel to the front of the hotel,
+and that on his return he looked at me&mdash;as I thought, not
+with courteous eyes.&nbsp; Then also I saw, or rather heard, some
+one in the verandah of the hotel above me, and was conscious that
+I was being viewed from thence.&nbsp; I walked and walked, and
+nobody came to me, and I perceived by my watch that it was seven
+o&rsquo;clock.&nbsp; The noise, too, had come nearer and nearer,
+and I was now aware that wheels had been drawn up before the
+front door of the hotel, and that many voices were speaking
+there.&nbsp; It might be that Mahmoud should wait for some other
+friend, but why did he not send some one to inform me?&nbsp; And
+then, as I made a sudden turn at the end of the quay, I caught
+sight of the retreating legs of the Austrian interpreter, and I
+became aware that he had been sent down, and had gone away,
+afraid to speak to me.&nbsp; &ldquo;What can I do?&rdquo; said I
+to myself, &ldquo;I can but keep my ground.&rdquo;&nbsp; I owned
+that I feared to go round to the front of the hotel.&nbsp; So I
+still walked slowly up and down the length of the quay, and began
+to whistle to show that I was not uneasy.&nbsp; The Arab sailors
+looked at me uncomfortably, and from time to time some one peered
+at me round the corner.&nbsp; It was now fully half-past seven,
+and the sun was becoming hot in the heavens.&nbsp; Why did we not
+hasten to place ourselves beneath the awning in that boat.</p>
+<p>I had just made up my mind that I would go round to the front
+and penetrate this mystery, when, on turning, I saw approaching
+to me a man dressed at any rate like an English gentleman.&nbsp;
+As he came near to me, he raised his hat, and accosted me in our
+own language.&nbsp; &ldquo;Mr. George Walker, I believe?&rdquo;
+said he.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Yes,&rdquo; said I, with some little attempt at a high
+demeanour,&mdash;&ldquo;of the firm of Grimes, Walker, and
+Judkins, Friday Street, London.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;A most respectable house, I am sure,&rdquo; said
+he.&nbsp; &ldquo;I am afraid there has been a little mistake
+here.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;No mistake as to the respectability of that
+house,&rdquo; said I.&nbsp; I felt that I was again alone in the
+world, and that it was necessary that I should support
+myself.&nbsp; Mahmoud al Ackbar had separated himself from me for
+ever.&nbsp; Of that I had no longer a doubt.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Oh, none at all,&rdquo; said he.&nbsp; &ldquo;But about
+this little expedition over the water;&rdquo; and he pointed
+contemptuously to the boat.&nbsp; &ldquo;There has been a mistake
+about that, Mr. Walker; I happen to be the English Vice-Consul
+here.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>I took off my hat and bowed.&nbsp; It was the first time I had
+ever been addressed civilly by any English consular
+authority.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;And they have made me get out of bed to come down here
+and explain all this to you.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;All what?&rdquo; said I.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;You are a man of the world, I know, and I&rsquo;ll just
+tell it you plainly.&nbsp; My old friend, Mahmoud al Ackbar, has
+mistaken you for Sir George Walker, the new Lieutenant-Governor
+of Pegu.&nbsp; Sir George Walker is here now; he has come this
+morning; and Mahmoud is ashamed to face you after what has
+occurred.&nbsp; If you won&rsquo;t object to withdraw with me
+into the hotel, I&rsquo;ll explain it all.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>I felt as though a thunderbolt had fallen; and I must say,
+that even up to this day I think that the Consul might have been
+a little less abrupt.&nbsp; &ldquo;We can get in here,&rdquo;
+said he, evidently in a hurry, and pointing to a small door which
+opened out from one corner of the house to the quay.&nbsp; What
+could I do but follow him?&nbsp; I did follow him, and in a few
+words learned the remainder of the story.&nbsp; When he had once
+withdrawn me from the public walk he seemed but little anxious
+about the rest, and soon left me again alone.&nbsp; The facts, as
+far as I could learn them, were simply these.</p>
+<p>Sir George Walker, who was now going out to Pegu as Governor,
+had been in India before, commanding an army there.&nbsp; I had
+never heard of him before, and had made no attempt to pass myself
+off as his relative.&nbsp; Nobody could have been more innocent
+than I was&mdash;or have received worse usage.&nbsp; I have as
+much right to the name as he has.&nbsp; Well; when he was in
+India before, he had taken the city of Begum after a terrible
+siege&mdash;Begum, I think the Consul called it; and Mahmoud had
+been there, having been, it seems, a great man at Begum, and Sir
+George had spared him and his money; and in this way the whole
+thing had come to pass.&nbsp; There was no further explanation
+than that.&nbsp; The rest of it was all transparent.&nbsp;
+Mahmoud, having heard my name from the porter, had hurried down
+to invite me to his party.&nbsp; So far so good.&nbsp; But why
+had he been afraid to face me in the morning?&nbsp; And, seeing
+that the fault had all been his, why had he not asked me to join
+the expedition?&nbsp; Sir George and I may, after all, be
+cousins.&nbsp; But, coward as he was, he had been afraid of
+me.&nbsp; When they found that I was on the quay, they had been
+afraid of me, not knowing how to get rid of me.&nbsp; I wish that
+I had kept the quay all day, and stared them down one by one as
+they entered the boat.&nbsp; But I was down in the mouth, and
+when the Consul left me, I crept wearily back to my bedroom.</p>
+<p>And the Consul did leave me almost immediately.&nbsp; A faint
+hope had, at one time, come upon me that he would have asked me
+to breakfast.&nbsp; Had he done so, I should have felt it as a
+full compensation for all that I had suffered.&nbsp; I am not an
+exacting man, but I own that I like civility.&nbsp; In Friday
+Street I can command it, and in Friday Street for the rest of my
+life will I remain.&nbsp; From this Consul I received no
+civility.&nbsp; As soon as he had got me out of the way and
+spoken the few words which he had to say, he again raised his hat
+and left me.&nbsp; I also again raised mine, and then crept up to
+my bed-room.</p>
+<p>From my window, standing a little behind the white curtain, I
+could see the whole embarkation.&nbsp; There was Mahmoud al
+Ackbar, looking indeed a little hot, but still going through his
+work with all that excellence of deportment which had graced him
+on the preceding evening.&nbsp; Had his foot slipped, and had he
+fallen backwards into that shallow water, my spirit would, I
+confess, have been relieved.&nbsp; But, on the contrary,
+everything went well with him.&nbsp; There was the real Sir
+George, my namesake and perhaps my cousin, as fresh as paint,
+cool from the bath which he had been taking while I had been
+walking on that terrace.&nbsp; How is it that these governors and
+commanders-in-chief go through such a deal of work without
+fagging?&nbsp; It was not yet two hours since he was jolting
+about in that omnibus-box, and there he had been all night.&nbsp;
+I could not have gone off to the Well of Moses immediately on my
+arrival.&nbsp; It&rsquo;s the dignity of the position that does
+it.&nbsp; I have long known that the head of a firm must never
+count on a mere clerk to get through as much work as he could do
+himself.&nbsp; It&rsquo;s the interest in the matter that
+supports the man.</p>
+<p>They went, and Sir George, as I was well assured, had never
+heard a word about me.&nbsp; Had he done so, is it probable that
+he would have requested my attendance?</p>
+<p>But Mahmoud and his followers no doubt kept their own counsel
+as to that little mistake.&nbsp; There they went, and the gentle
+rippling breeze filled their sail pleasantly, as the boat moved
+away into the bay.&nbsp; I felt no spite against any of them but
+Mahmoud.&nbsp; Why had he avoided me with such cowardice?&nbsp; I
+could still see them when the morning tchibouk was handed to Sir
+George; and, though I wished him no harm, I did envy him as he
+lay there reclining luxuriously upon the cushions.</p>
+<p>A more wretched day than that I never spent in my life.&nbsp;
+As I went in and out, the porter at the gate absolutely scoffed
+at me.&nbsp; Once I made up my mind to complain within the
+house.&nbsp; But what could I have said of the dirty Arab?&nbsp;
+They would have told me that it was his religion, or a national
+observance, or meant for a courtesy.&nbsp; What can a man do, in
+a strange country, when he is told that a native spits in his
+face by way of civility?&nbsp; I bore it, I bore it&mdash;like a
+man; and sighed for the comforts of Friday Street.</p>
+<p>As to one matter, I made up my mind on that day, and I fully
+carried out my purpose on the next: I would go across to the Well
+of Moses in a boat.&nbsp; I would visit the coasts of Asia.&nbsp;
+And I would ride back into Africa on a camel.&nbsp; Though I did
+it alone, I would have my day&rsquo;s pleasuring.&nbsp; I had
+money in my pocket, and, though it might cost me &pound;20, I
+would see all that my namesake had seen.&nbsp; It did cost me the
+best part of &pound;20; and as for the pleasuring, I cannot say
+much for it.</p>
+<p>I went to bed early that night, having concluded my bargain
+for the morrow with a rapacious Arab who spoke English.&nbsp; I
+went to bed early in order to escape the returning party, and was
+again on the quay at six the next morning.&nbsp; On this
+occasion, I stepped boldly into the boat the very moment that I
+came along the shore.&nbsp; There is nothing in the world like
+paying for what you use.&nbsp; I saw myself to the bottle of
+brandy and the cold meat, and acknowledged that a cigar out of my
+own case would suit me better than that long stick.&nbsp; The
+long stick might do very well for a Governor of Pegu, but would
+be highly inconvenient in Friday Street.</p>
+<p>Well, I am not going to give an account of my day&rsquo;s
+journey here, though perhaps I may do so some day.&nbsp; I did go
+to the Well of Moses&mdash;if a small dirty pool of salt water,
+lying high above the sands, can be called a well; I did eat my
+dinner in the miserable ruined cottage which they graced by the
+name of a pavilion; and, alas for my poor bones! I did ride home
+upon a camel.&nbsp; If Sir George did so early, and started for
+Pegu the next morning&mdash;and I was informed such was the
+fact&mdash;he must have been made of iron.&nbsp; I laid in bed
+the whole day suffering greviously; but I was told that on such a
+journey I should have slakened my throat with oranges, and not
+with brandy.</p>
+<p>I survived those four terrible days which remained to me at
+Suez, and after another month was once again in Friday
+Street.&nbsp; I suffered greatly on the occasion; but it is some
+consolation to me to reflect that I smoked a pipe of peace with
+Mahmoud al Ackbar; that I saw the hero of Begum while journeying
+out to new triumphs at Pegu; that I sailed into Asia in my own
+yacht&mdash;hired for the occasion; and that I rode back into
+Africa on a camel.&nbsp; Nor can Judkins, with all his
+ill-nature, rob me of these remembrances.</p>
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK GEORGE WALKER AT SUEZ***</p>
+<pre>
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+This etext was produced by David Price, email ccx074@coventry.ac.uk,
+from the 1864 Chapman and Hall "Tales of all Countries" edition.
+
+
+
+
+
+GEORGE WALKER AT SUEZ
+
+by Anthony Trollope
+
+
+
+
+Of all the spots on the world's surface that I, George Walker, of
+Friday Street, London, have ever visited, Suez in Egypt, at the head
+of the Red Sea, is by far the vilest, the most unpleasant, and the
+least interesting. There are no women there, no water, and no
+vegetation. It is surrounded, and indeed often filled, by a world
+of sand. A scorching sun is always overhead; and one is domiciled
+in a huge cavernous hotel, which seems to have been made purposely
+destitute of all the comforts of civilised life. Nevertheless, in
+looking back upon the week of my life which I spent there I always
+enjoy a certain sort of triumph;--or rather, upon one day of that
+week, which lends a sort of halo not only to my sojourn at Suez, but
+to the whole period of my residence in Egypt.
+
+I am free to confess that I am not a great man, and that, at any
+rate in the earlier part of my career, I had a hankering after the
+homage which is paid to greatness. I would fain have been a popular
+orator, feeding myself on the incense tendered to me by thousands;
+or failing that, a man born to power, whom those around him were
+compelled to respect, and perhaps to fear. I am not ashamed to
+acknowledge this, and I believe that most of my neighbours in Friday
+Street would own as much were they as candid and open-hearted as
+myself.
+
+It is now some time since I was recommended to pass the first four
+months of the year in Cairo because I had a sore-throat. The doctor
+may have been right, but I shall never divest myself of the idea
+that my partners wished to be rid of me while they made certain
+changes in the management of the firm. They would not otherwise
+have shown such interest every time I blew my nose or relieved my
+huskiness by a slight cough;--they would not have been so intimate
+with that surgeon from St. Bartholomew's who dined with them twice
+at the Albion; nor would they have gone to work directly that my
+back was turned, and have done those very things which they could
+not have done had I remained at home. Be that as it may, I was
+frightened and went to Cairo, and while there I made a trip to Suez
+for a week.
+
+I was not happy at Cairo, for I knew nobody there, and the people at
+the hotel were, as I thought, uncivil. It seemed to me as though I
+were allowed to go in and out merely by sufferance; and yet I paid
+my bill regularly every week. The house was full of company, but
+the company was made up of parties of twos and threes, and they all
+seemed to have their own friends. I did make attempts to overcome
+that terrible British exclusiveness, that noli me tangere with which
+an Englishman arms himself; and in which he thinks it necessary to
+envelop his wife; but it was in vain, and I found myself sitting
+down to breakfast and dinner, day after day, as much alone as I
+should do if I called for a chop at a separate table in the
+Cathedral Coffee-house. And yet at breakfast and dinner I made one
+of an assemblage of thirty or forty people. That I thought dull.
+
+But as I stood one morning on the steps before the hotel, bethinking
+myself that my throat was as well as ever I remembered it to be, I
+was suddenly slapped on the back. Never in my life did I feel a
+more pleasant sensation, or turn round with more unaffected delight
+to return a friend's greeting. It was as though a cup of water had
+been handed to me in the desert. I knew that a cargo of passengers
+for Australia had reached Cairo that morning, and were to be passed
+on to Suez as soon as the railway would take them, and did not
+therefore expect that the greeting had come from any sojourner in
+Egypt. I should perhaps have explained that the even tenor of our
+life at the hotel was disturbed some four times a month by a flight
+through Cairo of a flock of travellers, who like locusts eat up all
+that there was eatable at the Inn for the day. They sat down at the
+same tables with us, never mixing with us, having their separate
+interests and hopes, and being often, as I thought, somewhat loud
+and almost selfish in the expression of them. These flocks
+consisted of passengers passing and repassing by the overland route
+to and from India and Australia; and had I nothing else to tell, I
+should delight to describe all that I watched of their habits and
+manners--the outward bound being so different in their traits from
+their brethren on their return. But I have to tell of my own
+triumph at Suez, and must therefore hasten on to say that on turning
+round quickly with my outstretched hand, I found it clasped by John
+Robinson.
+
+"Well, Robinson, is this you?" "Holloa, Walker, what are you doing
+here?" That of course was the style of greeting. Elsewhere I
+should not have cared much to meet John Robinson, for he was a man
+who had never done well in the world. He had been in business and
+connected with a fairly good house in Sise Lane, but he had married
+early, and things had not exactly gone well with him. I don't think
+the house broke, but he did; and so he was driven to take himself
+and five children off to Australia. Elsewhere I should not have
+cared to come across him, but I was positively glad to be slapped on
+the back by anybody on that landing-place in front of Shepheard's
+Hotel at Cairo.
+
+I soon learned that Robinson with his wife and children, and indeed
+with all the rest of the Australian cargo, were to be passed on to
+Suez that afternoon, and after a while I agreed to accompany their
+party. I had made up my mind, on coming out from England, that I
+would see all the wonders of Egypt, and hitherto I had seen nothing.
+I did ride on one day some fifteen miles on a donkey to see the
+petrified forest; but the guide, who called himself a dragoman, took
+me wrong or cheated me in some way. We rode half the day over a
+stony, sandy plain, seeing nothing, with a terrible wind that filled
+my mouth with grit, and at last the dragoman got off. "Dere," said
+he, picking up a small bit of stone, "Dis is de forest made of
+stone. Carry that home." Then we turned round and rode back to
+Cairo. My chief observation as to the country was this--that
+whichever way we went, the wind blew into our teeth. The day's work
+cost me five-and-twenty shillings, and since that I had not as yet
+made any other expedition. I was therefore glad of an opportunity
+of going to Suez, and of making the journey in company with an
+acquaintance.
+
+At that time the railway was open, as far as I remember, nearly half
+the way from Cairo to Suez. It did not run four or five times a
+day, as railways do in other countries, but four or five times a
+month. In fact, it only carried passengers on the arrival of these
+flocks passing between England and her Eastern possessions. There
+were trains passing backwards and forwards constantly, as I
+perceived in walking to and from the station; but, as I learned,
+they carried nothing but the labourers working on the line, and the
+water sent into the Desert for their use. It struck me forcibly at
+the time that I should not have liked to have money in that
+investment.
+
+Well; I went with Robinson to Suez. The journey, like everything
+else in Egypt, was sandy, hot, and unpleasant. The railway
+carriages were pretty fair, and we had room enough; but even in them
+the dust was a great nuisance. We travelled about ten miles an
+hour, and stopped about an hour at every ten miles. This was
+tedious, but we had cigars with us and a trifle of brandy and water;
+and in this manner the railway journey wore itself away. In the
+middle of the night, however, we were moved from the railway
+carriages into omnibuses, as they were called, and then I was not
+comfortable. These omnibuses were wooden boxes, placed each upon a
+pair of wheels, and supposed to be capable of carrying six
+passengers. I was thrust into one with Robinson, his wife and five
+children, and immediately began to repent of my good-nature in
+accompanying them. To each vehicle were attached four horses or
+mules, and I must acknowledge that as on the railway they went as
+slow as possible, so now in these conveyances, dragged through the
+sand, they went as fast as the beasts could be made to gallop. I
+remember the Fox Tally-ho coach on the Birmingham road when Boyce
+drove it, but as regards pace the Fox Tally-ho was nothing to these
+machines in Egypt. On the first going off I was jolted right on to
+Mrs. R. and her infant; and for a long time that lady thought that
+the child had been squeezed out of its proper shape; but at last we
+arrived at Suez, and the baby seemed to me to be all right when it
+was handed down into the boat at Suez.
+
+The Robinsons were allowed time to breakfast at that cavernous
+hotel--which looked to me like a scheme to save the expense of the
+passengers' meal on board the ship--and then they were off. I shook
+hands with him heartily as I parted with him at the quay, and wished
+him well through all his troubles. A man who takes a wife and five
+young children out into a colony, and that with his pockets but
+indifferently lined, certainly has his troubles before him. So he
+has at home, no doubt; but, judging for myself, I should always
+prefer sticking to the old ship as long as there is a bag of
+biscuits in the locker. Poor Robinson! I have never heard a word
+of him or his since that day, and sincerely trust that the baby was
+none the worse for the little accident in the box.
+
+And now I had the prospect of a week before me at Suez, and the
+Robinsons had not been gone half an hour before I began to feel that
+I should have been better off even at Cairo. I secured a bedroom at
+the hotel--I might have secured sixty bedrooms had I wanted them--
+and then went out and stood at the front door, or gate. It is a
+large house, built round a quadrangle, looking with one front
+towards the head of the Red Sea, and with the other into and on a
+sandy, dead-looking, open square. There I stood for ten minutes,
+and finding that it was too hot to go forth, returned to the long
+cavernous room in which we had breakfasted. In that long cavernous
+room I was destined to eat all my meals for the next six days. Now
+at Cairo I could, at any rate, see my fellow-creatures at their
+food. So I lit a cigar, and began to wonder whether I could survive
+the week. It was now clear to me that I had done a very rash thing
+in coming to Suez with the Robinsons.
+
+Somebody about the place had asked me my name, and I had told it
+plainly--George Walker. I never was ashamed of my name yet, and
+never had cause to be. I believe at this day it will go as far in
+Friday Street as any other. A man may be popular, or he may not.
+That depends mostly on circumstances which are in themselves
+trifling. But the value of his name depends on the way in which he
+is known at his bank. I have never dealt in tea spoons or gravy
+spoons, but my name will go as far as another name. "George
+Walker," I answered, therefore, in a tone of some little authority,
+to the man who asked me, and who sat inside the gate of the hotel in
+an old dressing-gown and slippers.
+
+That was a melancholy day with me, and twenty times before dinner
+did I wish myself back at Cairo. I had been travelling all night,
+and therefore hoped that I might get through some little time in
+sleeping, but the mosquitoes attacked me the moment I laid myself
+down. In other places mosquitoes torment you only at night, but at
+Suez they buzz around you, without ceasing, at all hours. A
+scorching sun was blazing overhead, and absolutely forbade me to
+leave the house. I stood for a while in the verandah, looking down
+at the few small vessels which were moored to the quay, but there
+was no life in them; not a sail was set, not a boatman or a sailor
+was to be seen, and the very water looked as though it were hot. I
+could fancy the glare of the sun was cracking the paint on the
+gunwales of the boats. I was the only visitor in the house, and
+during all the long hours of the morning it seemed as though the
+servants had deserted it.
+
+I dined at four; not that I chose that hour, but because no choice
+was given to me. At the hotels in Egypt one has to dine at an hour
+fixed by the landlord, and no entreaties will suffice to obtain a
+meal at any other. So at four I dined, and after dinner was again
+reduced to despair.
+
+I was sitting in the cavernous chamber almost mad at the prospect of
+the week before me, when I heard a noise as of various feet in the
+passage leading from the quadrangle. Was it possible that other
+human beings were coming into the hotel--Christian human beings at
+whom I could look, whose voices I could hear, whose words I could
+understand, and with whom I might possibly associate? I did not
+move, however, for I was still hot, and I knew that my chances might
+be better if I did not show myself over eager for companionship at
+the first moment. The door, however, was soon opened, and I saw
+that at least in one respect I was destined to be disappointed. The
+strangers who were entering the room were not Christians--if I might
+judge by the nature of the garments in which they were clothed.
+
+The door had been opened by the man in an old dressing-gown and
+slippers, whom I had seen sitting inside the gate. He was the Arab
+porter of the hotel, and as he marshalled the new visitors into the
+room, I heard him pronounce some sound similar to my own name, and
+perceived that he pointed me out to the most prominent person of
+those who then entered the apartment. This was a stout, portly man,
+dressed from head to foot in Eastern costume of the brightest
+colours. He wore, not only the red fez cap which everybody wears--
+even I had accustomed myself to a fez cap--but a turban round it, of
+which the voluminous folds were snowy white. His face was fat, but
+not the less grave, and the lower part of it was enveloped in a
+magnificent beard, which projected round it on all sides, and
+touched his breast as he walked. It was a grand grizzled beard, and
+I acknowledged at a moment that it added a singular dignity to the
+appearance of the stranger. His flowing robe was of bright colours,
+and the under garment which fitted close round his breast, and then
+descended, becoming beneath his sash a pair of the loosest
+pantaloons--I might, perhaps, better describe them as bags--was a
+rich tawny silk. These loose pantaloons were tied close round his
+legs, above the ankle, and over a pair of scrupulously white
+stockings, and on his feet he wore a pair of yellow slippers. It
+was manifest to me at a glance that the Arab gentleman was got up in
+his best raiment, and that no expense had been spared on his suit.
+
+And here I cannot but make a remark on the personal bearing of these
+Arabs. Whether they be Arabs or Turks, or Copts, it is always the
+same. They are a mean, false, cowardly race, I believe. They will
+bear blows, and respect the man who gives them. Fear goes further
+with them than love, and between man and man they understand nothing
+of forbearance. He who does not exact from them all that he can
+exact is simply a fool in their estimation, to the extent of that
+which he loses. In all this, they are immeasurably inferior to us
+who have had Christian teaching. But in one thing they beat us.
+They always know how to maintain their personal dignity.
+
+Look at my friend and partner Judkins, as he stands with his hands
+in his trousers pockets at the door of our house in Friday Street.
+What can be meaner than his appearance? He is a stumpy, short,
+podgy man; but then so also was my Arab friend at Suez. Judkins is
+always dressed from head to foot in a decent black cloth suit; his
+coat is ever a dress coat, and is neither old nor shabby. On his
+head he carries a shining new silk hat, such as fashion in our
+metropolis demands. Judkins is rather a dandy than otherwise,
+piquing himself somewhat on his apparel. And yet how mean is his
+appearance, as compared with the appearance of that Arab;--how mean
+also is his gait, how ignoble his step! Judkins could buy that Arab
+out four times over, and hardly feel the loss; and yet were they to
+enter a room together, Judkins would know and acknowledge by his
+look that he was the inferior personage. Not the less, should a
+personal quarrel arise between them, would Judkins punch the Arab's
+head; ay, and reduce him to utter ignominy at his feet.
+
+Judkins would break his heart in despair rather than not return a
+blow; whereas the Arab would put up with any indignity of that sort.
+Nevertheless Judkins is altogether deficient in personal dignity. I
+often thought, as the hours hung in Egypt, whether it might not be
+practicable to introduce an oriental costume in Friday Street.
+
+At this moment, as the Arab gentleman entered the cavernous coffee-
+room, I felt that I was greatly the inferior personage. He was
+followed by four or five others, dressed somewhat as himself; though
+by no means in such magnificent colours, and by one gentleman in a
+coat and trousers. The gentleman in the coat and trousers came
+last, and I could see that he was one of the least of the number.
+As for myself, I felt almost overawed by the dignity of the stout
+party in the turban, and seeing that he came directly across the
+room to the place where I was seated, I got upon my legs and made
+him some sign of Christian obeisance.
+
+I am a little man, and not podgy, as is Judkins, and I flatter
+myself that I showed more deportment, at any rate, than he would
+have exhibited.
+
+I made, as I have said, some Christian obeisance. I bobbed my head,
+that is, rubbing my hands together the while, and expressed an
+opinion that it was a fine day. But if I was civil, as I hope I
+was, the Arab was much more so. He advanced till he was about six
+paces from me, then placed his right hand open upon his silken
+breast,- and inclining forward with his whole body, made to me a bow
+which Judkins never could accomplish. The turban and the flowing
+robe might be possible in Friday Street, but of what avail would be
+the outer garments and mere symbols, if the inner sentiment of
+personal dignity were wanting? I have often since tried it when
+alone, but I could never accomplish anything like that bow. The
+Arab with the flowing robe bowed, and the other Arabs all bowed
+also; and after that the Christian gentleman with the coat and
+trousers made a leg. I made a leg also, rubbing my hands again, and
+added to my former remarks that it was rather hot.
+
+"Dat berry true," said the porter in the dirty dressing-gown, who
+stood by. I could see at a glance that the manner of that porter
+towards me was greatly altered, and I began to feel comforted in my
+wretchedness. Perhaps a Christian from Friday Street, with plenty
+of money in his pockets, would stand in higher esteem at Suez than
+at Cairo. If so, that alone would go far to atone for the apparent
+wretchedness of the place. At Cairo I had not received that
+attention which had certainly been due to me as the second partner
+in the flourishing Manchester house of Grimes, Walker, and Judkins.
+
+But now, as my friend with the beard again bowed to me, I felt that
+this deficiency was to be made up. It was clear, however, that this
+new acquaintance, though I liked the manner of it, would be attended
+with considerable inconvenience, for the Arab gentleman commenced an
+address to me in French. It has always been to me a source of
+sorrow that my parents did not teach me the French language, and
+this deficiency on my part has given rise to an incredible amount of
+supercilious overbearing pretension on the part of Judkins--who
+after all can hardly do more than translate a correspondent's
+letter. I do not believe that he could have understood that Arab's
+oration, but at any rate I did not. He went on to the end, however,
+speaking for some three or four minutes, and then again he bowed.
+If I could only have learned that bow, I might still have been
+greater than Judkins with all his French.
+
+"I am very sorry," said I, "but I don't exactly follow the French
+language when it is spoken."
+
+"Ah! no French!" said the Arab in very broken English, "dat is one
+sorrow." How is it that these fellows learn all languages under the
+sun? I afterwards found that this man could talk Italian, and
+Turkish, and Armenian fluently, and say a few words in German, as he
+could also in English. I could not ask for my dinner in any other
+language than English, if it were to save me from starvation. Then
+he called to the Christian gentleman in the pantaloons, and, as far
+as I could understand, made over to him the duty of interpreting
+between us. There seemed, however, to be one difficulty in the way
+of this being carried on with efficiency. The Christian gentleman
+could not speak English himself. He knew of it perhaps something
+more than did the Arab, but by no means enough to enable us to have
+a fluent conversation.
+
+And had the interpreter--who turned out to be an Italian from
+Trieste, attached to the Austrian Consulate at Alexandria--had the
+interpreter spoken English with the greatest ease, I should have had
+considerable difficulty in understanding and digesting in all its
+bearings, the proposition made to me. But before I proceed to the
+proposition, I must describe a ceremony which took place previous to
+its discussion. I had hardly observed, when first the procession
+entered the room, that one of my friend's followers--my friend's
+name, as I learned afterwards, was Mahmoud al Ackbar, and I will
+therefore call him Mahmoud--that one of Mahmoud's followers bore in
+his arms a bundle of long sticks, and that another carried an iron
+pot and a tray. Such was the case, and these two followers came
+forward to perform their services, while I, having been literally
+pressed down on to the sofa by Mahmoud, watched them in their
+progress. Mahmoud also sat down, and not a word was spoken while
+the ceremony went on. The man with the sticks first placed on the
+ground two little pans--one at my feet, and then one at the feet of
+his master. After that he loosed an ornamented bag which he carried
+round his neck, and producing from it tobacco, proceeded to fill two
+pipes. This he did with the utmost gravity, and apparently with
+very peculiar care. The pipes had been already fixed at one end of
+the stick, and to the other end the man had fastened two large
+yellow balls. These, as I afterwards perceived, were mouth-pieces
+made of amber. Then he lit the pipes, drawing up the difficult
+smoke by long painful suckings at the mouthpiece, and then, when the
+work had become apparently easy, he handed one pipe to me, and the
+other to his master. The bowls he had first placed in the little
+pans on the ground.
+
+During all this time no word was spoken, and I was left altogether
+in the dark as to the cause which had produced this extraordinary
+courtesy. There was a stationary sofa--they called it there a
+divan--which was fixed into the corner of the room, and on one side
+of the angle sat Mahmoud al Ackbar, with his feet tucked under him,
+while I sat on the other. The remainder of the party stood around,
+and I felt so little master of the occasion, that I did not know
+whether it would become me to bid them be seated. I was not master
+of the entertainment. They were not my pipes. Nor was it my
+coffee, which I saw one of the followers preparing in a distant part
+of the room. And, indeed, I was much confused as to the management
+of the stick and amber mouth-piece with which I had been presented.
+With a cigar I am as much at home as any man in the City. I can
+nibble off the end of it, and smoke it to the last ash, when I am
+three parts asleep. But I had never before been invited to regale
+myself with such an instrument as this. What was I to do with that
+huge yellow ball? So I watched my new friend closely.
+
+It had manifestly been a part of his urbanity not to commence till I
+had done so, but seeing my difficulty he at last raised the ball to
+his mouth and sucked at it. I looked at him and envied the gravity
+of his countenance, and the dignity of his demeanour. I sucked
+also, but I made a sputtering noise, and must confess that I did not
+enjoy it. The smoke curled gracefully from his mouth and nostrils
+as he sat there in mute composure. I was mute as regarded speech,
+but I coughed as the smoke came from me in convulsive puffs. And
+then the attendant brought us coffee in little tin cups--black
+coffee, without sugar and full of grit, of which the berries had
+been only bruised, not ground. I took the cup and swallowed the
+mixture, for I could not refuse, but I wish that I might have asked
+for some milk and sugar. Nevertheless there was something very
+pleasing in the whole ceremony, and at last I began to find myself
+more at home with my pipe.
+
+When Mahmoud had exhausted his tobacco, and perceived that I also
+had ceased to puff forth smoke, he spoke in Italian to the
+interpreter, and the interpreter forthwith proceeded to explain to
+me the purport of this visit. This was done with much difficulty,
+for the interpreter's stock of English was very scanty--but after
+awhile I understood, or thought I understood, as follows:- At some
+previous period of my existence I had done some deed which had given
+infinite satisfaction to Mahmoud al Ackbar. Whether, however, I had
+done it myself, or whether my father had done it, was not quite
+clear to me. My father, then some time deceased, had been a
+wharfinger at Liverpool, and it was quite possible that Mahmoud
+might have found himself at that port. Mahmoud had heard of my
+arrival in Egypt, and had been given to understand that I was coming
+to Suez--to carry myself away in the ship, as the interpreter
+phrased it. This I could not understand, but I let it pass. Having
+heard these agreeable tidings--and Mahmoud, sitting in the corner,
+bowed low to me as this was said--he had prepared for my acceptance
+a slight refection for the morrow, hoping that I would not carry
+myself away in the ship till this had been eaten. On this subject I
+soon made him quite at ease, and he then proceeded to explain that
+as there was a point of interest at Suez, Mahmoud was anxious that I
+should partake of the refection somewhat in the guise of a picnic,
+at the Well of Moses, over in Asia, on the other side of the head of
+the Red Sea. Mahmoud would provide a boat to take across the party
+in the morning, and camels on which we would return after sunset.
+Or else we would go and return on camels, or go on camels and return
+in the boat. Indeed any arrangement would be made that I preferred.
+If I was afraid of the heat, and disliked the open boat, I could be
+carried round in a litter. The provisions had already been sent
+over to the Well of Moses in the anticipation that I would not
+refuse this little request.
+
+I did not refuse it. Nothing could have been more agreeable to me
+than this plan of seeing something of the sights and wonders of this
+land,--and of this seeing them in good company. I had not heard of
+the Well of Moses before, but now that I learned that it was in
+Asia,--in another quarter of the globe, to be reached by a transit
+of the Red Sea, to be returned from by a journey on camels' backs,--
+I burned with anxiety to visit its waters. What a story would this
+be for Judkins! This was, no doubt, the point at which the
+Israelites had passed. Of those waters had they drunk. I almost
+felt that I had already found one of Pharaoh's chariot wheels. I
+readily gave my assent, and then, with much ceremony and many low
+salaams, Mahmoud and his attendant left me. "I am very glad that I
+came to Suez," said I to myself.
+
+I did not sleep much that night, for the mosquitoes of Suez are very
+persevering; but I was saved from the agonising despair which these
+animals so frequently produce, by my agreeable thoughts as to
+Mahmoud al Ackbar. I will put it to any of my readers who have
+travelled, whether it is not a painful thing to find one's-self
+regarded among strangers without any kindness or ceremonious
+courtesy. I had on this account been wretched at Cairo, but all
+this was to be made up to me at Suez. Nothing could be more
+pleasant than the whole conduct of Mahmoud al Ackbar, and I
+determined to take full advantage of it, not caring overmuch what
+might be the nature of those previous favours to which he had
+alluded. That was his look-out, and if he was satisfied, why should
+not I be so also?
+
+On the following morning I was dressed at six, and, looking out of
+my bed-room, I saw the boat in which we were to be wafted into Asia
+being brought up to the quay close under my window. It had been
+arranged that we should start early, so as to avoid the mid-day sun,
+breakfast in the boat,--Mahmoud in this way engaged to provide me
+with two refections,--take our rest at noon in a pavilion which had
+been built close upon the well of the patriarch, and then eat our
+dinner, and return riding upon camels in the cool of the evening.
+Nothing could sound more pleasant than such a plan; and knowing as I
+did that the hampers of provisions had already been sent over, I did
+not doubt that the table arrangements would be excellent. Even now,
+standing at my window, I could see a basket laden with long-necked
+bottles going into the boat, and became aware that we should not
+depend altogether for our morning repast on that gritty coffee which
+my friend Mahmoud's followers prepared.
+
+I had promised to be ready at six, and having carefully completed my
+toilet, and put a clean collar and comb into my pocket ready for
+dinner, I descended to the great gateway and walked slowly round to
+the quay. As I passed out, the porter greeted me with a low
+obeisance, and walking on, I felt that I stepped the ground with a
+sort of dignity of which I had before been ignorant. It is not, as
+a rule, the man who gives grace and honour to the position, but the
+position which confers the grace and honour upon the man. I have
+often envied the solemn gravity and grand demeanour of the Lord
+Chancellor, as I have seen him on the bench; but I almost think that
+even Judkins would look grave and dignified under such a wig.
+Mahmoud al Ackbar had called upon me and done me honour, and I felt
+myself personally capable of sustaining before the people of Suez
+the honour which he had done me.
+
+As I walked forth with a proud step from beneath the portal, I
+perceived, looking down from the square along the street, that there
+was already some commotion in the town. I saw the flowing robes of
+many Arabs, with their backs turned towards me, and I thought that I
+observed the identical gown and turban of my friend Mahmoud on the
+back and head of a stout short man, who was hurrying round a corner
+in the distance. I felt sure that it was Mahmoud. Some of his
+servants had failed in their preparations, I said to myself, as I
+made my way round to the water's edge. This was only another
+testimony how anxious he was to do me honour.
+
+I stood for a while on the edge of the quay looking into the boat,
+and admiring the comfortable cushions which were luxuriously
+arranged around the seats. The men who were at work did not know
+me, and I was unnoticed, but I should soon take my place upon the
+softest of those cushions. I walked slowly backwards and forwards
+on the quay, listening to a hum of voices that came to me from a
+distance. There was clearly something stirring in the town, and I
+felt certain that all the movement and all those distant voices were
+connected in some way with my expedition to the Well of Moses. At
+last there came a lad upon the walk dressed in Frank costume, and I
+asked him what was in the wind. He was a clerk attached to an
+English warehouse, and he told me that there had been an arrival
+from Cairo.
+
+He knew no more than that, but he had heard that the omnibuses had
+just come in. Could it be possible that Mahmoud al Ackbar had heard
+of another old acquaintance, and had gone to welcome him also?
+
+At first my ideas on the subject were altogether pleasant. I by no
+means wished to monopolise the delights of all those cushions, nor
+would it be to me a cause of sorrow that there should be some one to
+share with me the conversational powers of that interpreter. Should
+another guest be found, he might also be an Englishman, and I might
+thus form an acquaintance which would be desirable. Thinking of
+these things, I walked the quay for some minutes in a happy state of
+mind; but by degrees I became impatient, and by degrees also
+disturbed in my spirit. I observed that one of the Arab boatmen
+walked round from the vessel to the front of the hotel, and that on
+his return he looked at me--as I thought, not with courteous eyes.
+Then also I saw, or rather heard, some one in the verandah of the
+hotel above me, and was conscious that I was being viewed from
+thence. I walked and walked, and nobody came to me, and I perceived
+by my watch that it was seven o'clock. The noise, too, had come
+nearer and nearer, and I was now aware that wheels had been drawn up
+before the front door of the hotel, and that many voices were
+speaking there. It might be that Mahmoud should wait for some other
+friend, but why did he not send some one to inform me? And then, as
+I made a sudden turn at the end of the quay, I caught sight of the
+retreating legs of the Austrian interpreter, and I became aware that
+he had been sent down, and had gone away, afraid to speak to me.
+"What can I do?" said I to myself, "I can but keep my ground." I
+owned that I feared to go round to the front of the hotel. So I
+still walked slowly up and down the length of the quay, and began to
+whistle to show that I was not uneasy. The Arab sailors looked at
+me uncomfortably, and from time to time some one peered at me round
+the corner. It was now fully half-past seven, and the sun was
+becoming hot in the heavens. Why did we not hasten to place
+ourselves beneath the awning in that boat.
+
+I had just made up my mind that I would go round to the front and
+penetrate this mystery, when, on turning, I saw approaching to me a
+man dressed at any rate like an English gentleman. As he came near
+to me, he raised his hat, and accosted me in our own language. "Mr.
+George Walker, I believe?" said he.
+
+"Yes," said I, with some little attempt at a high demeanour, -"of
+the firm of Grimes, Walker, and Judkins, Friday Street, London."
+
+"A most respectable house, I am sure," said he. "I am afraid there
+has been a little mistake here."
+
+"No mistake as to the respectability of that house," said I. I felt
+that I was again alone in the world, and that it was necessary that
+I should support myself. Mahmoud al Ackbar had separated himself
+from me for ever. Of that I had no longer a doubt.
+
+"Oh, none at all," said he. "But about this little expedition over
+the water;" and he pointed contemptuously to the boat. "There has
+been a mistake about that, Mr. Walker; I happen to be the English
+Vice-Consul here."
+
+I took off my hat and bowed. It was the first time I had ever been
+addressed civilly by any English consular authority.
+
+"And they have made me get out of bed to come down here and explain
+all this to you."
+
+"All what?" said I.
+
+"You are a man of the world, I know, and I'll just tell it you
+plainly. My old friend, Mahmoud al Ackbar, has mistaken you for Sir
+George Walker, the new Lieutenant-Governor of Pegu. Sir George
+Walker is here now; he has come this morning; and Mahmoud is ashamed
+to face you after what has occurred. If you won't object to
+withdraw with me into the hotel, I'll explain it all."
+
+I felt as though a thunderbolt had fallen; and I must say, that even
+up to this day I think that the Consul might have been a little less
+abrupt. "We can get in here," said he, evidently in a hurry, and
+pointing to a small door which opened out from one corner of the
+house to the quay. What could I do but follow him? I did follow
+him, and in a few words learned the remainder of the story. When he
+had once withdrawn me from the public walk he seemed but little
+anxious about the rest, and soon left me again alone. The facts, as
+far as I could learn them, were simply these.
+
+Sir George Walker, who was now going out to Pegu as Governor, had
+been in India before, commanding an army there. I had never heard
+of him before, and had made no attempt to pass myself off as his
+relative. Nobody could have been more innocent than I was--or have
+received worse usage. I have as much right to the name as he has.
+Well; when he was in India before, he had taken the city of Begum
+after a terrible siege--Begum, I think the Consul called it; and
+Mahmoud had been there, having been, it seems, a great man at Begum,
+and Sir George had spared him and his money; and in this way the
+whole thing had come to pass. There was no further explanation than
+that. The rest of it was all transparent. Mahmoud, having heard my
+name from the porter, had hurried down to invite me to his party.
+So far so good. But why had he been afraid to face me in the
+morning? And, seeing that the fault had all been his, why had he
+not asked me to join the expedition? Sir George and I may, after
+all, be cousins. But, coward as he was, he had been afraid of me.
+When they found that I was on the quay, they had been afraid of me,
+not knowing how to get rid of me. I wish that I had kept the quay
+all day, and stared them down one by one as they entered the boat.
+But I was down in the mouth, and when the Consul left me, I crept
+wearily back to my bedroom.
+
+And the Consul did leave me almost immediately. A faint hope had,
+at one time, come upon me that he would have asked me to breakfast.
+Had he done so, I should have felt it as a full compensation for all
+that I had suffered. I am not an exacting man, but I own that I
+like civility. In Friday Street I can command it, and in Friday
+Street for the rest of my life will I remain. From this Consul I
+received no civility. As soon as he had got me out of the way and
+spoken the few words which he had to say, he again raised his hat
+and left me. I also again raised mine, and then crept up to my bed-
+room.
+
+From my window, standing a little behind the white curtain, I could
+see the whole embarkation. There was Mahmoud al Ackbar, looking
+indeed a little hot, but still going through his work with all that
+excellence of deportment which had graced him on the preceding
+evening. Had his foot slipped, and had he fallen backwards into
+that shallow water, my spirit would, I confess, have been relieved.
+But, on the contrary, everything went well with him. There was the
+real Sir George, my namesake and perhaps my cousin, as fresh as
+paint, cool from the bath which he had been taking while I had been
+walking on that terrace. How is it that these governors and
+commanders-in-chief go through such a deal of work without fagging?
+It was not yet two hours since he was jolting about in that omnibus-
+box, and there he had been all night. I could not have gone off to
+the Well of Moses immediately on my arrival. It's the dignity of
+the position that does it. I have long known that the head of a
+firm must never count on a mere clerk to get through as much work as
+he could do himself. It's the interest in the matter that supports
+the man.
+
+They went, and Sir George, as I was well assured, had never heard a
+word about me. Had he done so, is it probable that he would have
+requested my attendance?
+
+But Mahmoud and his followers no doubt kept their own counsel as to
+that little mistake. There they went, and the gentle rippling
+breeze filled their sail pleasantly, as the boat moved away into the
+bay. I felt no spite against any of them but Mahmoud. Why had he
+avoided me with such cowardice? I could still see them when the
+morning tchibouk was handed to Sir George; and, though I wished him
+no harm, I did envy him as he lay there reclining luxuriously upon
+the cushions.
+
+A more wretched day than that I never spent in my life. As I went
+in and out, the porter at the gate absolutely scoffed at me. Once I
+made up my mind to complain within the house. But what could I have
+said of the dirty Arab? They would have told me that it was his
+religion, or a national observance, or meant for a courtesy. What
+can a man do, in a strange country, when he is told that a native
+spits in his face by way of civility? I bore it, I bore it--like a
+man; and sighed for the comforts of Friday Street.
+
+As to one matter, I made up my mind on that day, and I fully carried
+out my purpose on the next: I would go across to the Well of Moses
+in a boat. I would visit the coasts of Asia. And I would ride back
+into Africa on a camel. Though I did it alone, I would have my
+day's pleasuring. I had money in my pocket, and, though it might
+cost me 20 pounds, I would see all that my namesake had seen. It
+did cost me the best part of 20 pounds; and as for the pleasuring, I
+cannot say much for it.
+
+I went to bed early that night, having concluded my bargain for the
+morrow with a rapacious Arab who spoke English. I went to bed early
+in order to escape the returning party, and was again on the quay at
+six the next morning. On this occasion, I stepped boldly into the
+boat the very moment that I came along the shore. There is nothing
+in the world like paying for what you use. I saw myself to the
+bottle of brandy and the cold meat, and acknowledged that a cigar
+out of my own case would suit me better than that long stick. The
+long stick might do very well for a Governor of Pegu, but would be
+highly inconvenient in Friday Street.
+
+Well, I am not going to give an account of my day's journey here,
+though perhaps I may do so some day. I did go to the Well of Moses-
+-if a small dirty pool of salt water, lying high above the sands,
+can be called a well; I did eat my dinner in the miserable ruined
+cottage which they graced by the name of a pavilion; and, alas for
+my poor bones! I did ride home upon a camel. If Sir George did so
+early, and started for Pegu the next morning--and I was informed
+such was the fact--he must have been made of iron. I laid in bed
+the whole day suffering greviously; but I was told that on such a
+journey I should have slakened my throat with oranges, and not with
+brandy.
+
+I survived those four terrible days which remained to me at Suez,
+and after another month was once again in Friday Street. I suffered
+greatly on the occasion; but it is some consolation to me to reflect
+that I smoked a pipe of peace with Mahmoud al Ackbar; that I saw the
+hero of Begum while journeying out to new triumphs at Pegu; that I
+sailed into Asia in my own yacht--hired for the occasion; and that I
+rode back into Africa on a camel. Nor can Judkins, with all his
+ill-nature, rob me of these remembrances.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg Etext George Walker At Suez, by Anthony Trollope
+
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