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+Project Gutenberg Etext George Walker At Suez, by Anthony Trollope
+#24 in our series by Anthony Trollope
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+Title: George Walker At Suez
+
+Author: Anthony Trollope
+
+Release Date: February, 2003  [Etext #3718]
+[Yes, we are about one year ahead of schedule]
+[The actual date this file first posted = 08/07/01]
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+Edition: 10
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+Language: English
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+Project Gutenberg Etext George Walker At Suez, by Anthony Trollope
+*******This file should be named grgwk10.txt or grgwk10.zip******
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+This etext was produced by David Price, email ccx074@coventry.ac.uk,
+from the 1864 Chapman and Hall "Tales of all Countries" edition.
+
+
+
+
+
+GEORGE WALKER AT SUEZ
+
+by Anthony Trollope
+
+
+
+
+Of all the spots on the world's surface that I, George Walker, of
+Friday Street, London, have ever visited, Suez in Egypt, at the head
+of the Red Sea, is by far the vilest, the most unpleasant, and the
+least interesting.  There are no women there, no water, and no
+vegetation.  It is surrounded, and indeed often filled, by a world
+of sand.  A scorching sun is always overhead; and one is domiciled
+in a huge cavernous hotel, which seems to have been made purposely
+destitute of all the comforts of civilised life.  Nevertheless, in
+looking back upon the week of my life which I spent there I always
+enjoy a certain sort of triumph;--or rather, upon one day of that
+week, which lends a sort of halo not only to my sojourn at Suez, but
+to the whole period of my residence in Egypt.
+
+I am free to confess that I am not a great man, and that, at any
+rate in the earlier part of my career, I had a hankering after the
+homage which is paid to greatness.  I would fain have been a popular
+orator, feeding myself on the incense tendered to me by thousands;
+or failing that, a man born to power, whom those around him were
+compelled to respect, and perhaps to fear.  I am not ashamed to
+acknowledge this, and I believe that most of my neighbours in Friday
+Street would own as much were they as candid and open-hearted as
+myself.
+
+It is now some time since I was recommended to pass the first four
+months of the year in Cairo because I had a sore-throat.  The doctor
+may have been right, but I shall never divest myself of the idea
+that my partners wished to be rid of me while they made certain
+changes in the management of the firm.  They would not otherwise
+have shown such interest every time I blew my nose or relieved my
+huskiness by a slight cough;--they would not have been so intimate
+with that surgeon from St. Bartholomew's who dined with them twice
+at the Albion; nor would they have gone to work directly that my
+back was turned, and have done those very things which they could
+not have done had I remained at home.  Be that as it may, I was
+frightened and went to Cairo, and while there I made a trip to Suez
+for a week.
+
+I was not happy at Cairo, for I knew nobody there, and the people at
+the hotel were, as I thought, uncivil.  It seemed to me as though I
+were allowed to go in and out merely by sufferance; and yet I paid
+my bill regularly every week.  The house was full of company, but
+the company was made up of parties of twos and threes, and they all
+seemed to have their own friends.  I did make attempts to overcome
+that terrible British exclusiveness, that noli me tangere with which
+an Englishman arms himself; and in which he thinks it necessary to
+envelop his wife; but it was in vain, and I found myself sitting
+down to breakfast and dinner, day after day, as much alone as I
+should do if I called for a chop at a separate table in the
+Cathedral Coffee-house.  And yet at breakfast and dinner I made one
+of an assemblage of thirty or forty people.  That I thought dull.
+
+But as I stood one morning on the steps before the hotel, bethinking
+myself that my throat was as well as ever I remembered it to be, I
+was suddenly slapped on the back.  Never in my life did I feel a
+more pleasant sensation, or turn round with more unaffected delight
+to return a friend's greeting.  It was as though a cup of water had
+been handed to me in the desert.  I knew that a cargo of passengers
+for Australia had reached Cairo that morning, and were to be passed
+on to Suez as soon as the railway would take them, and did not
+therefore expect that the greeting had come from any sojourner in
+Egypt.  I should perhaps have explained that the even tenor of our
+life at the hotel was disturbed some four times a month by a flight
+through Cairo of a flock of travellers, who like locusts eat up all
+that there was eatable at the Inn for the day.  They sat down at the
+same tables with us, never mixing with us, having their separate
+interests and hopes, and being often, as I thought, somewhat loud
+and almost selfish in the expression of them.  These flocks
+consisted of passengers passing and repassing by the overland route
+to and from India and Australia; and had I nothing else to tell, I
+should delight to describe all that I watched of their habits and
+manners--the outward bound being so different in their traits from
+their brethren on their return.  But I have to tell of my own
+triumph at Suez, and must therefore hasten on to say that on turning
+round quickly with my outstretched hand, I found it clasped by John
+Robinson.
+
+"Well, Robinson, is this you?"  "Holloa, Walker, what are you doing
+here?"  That of course was the style of greeting.  Elsewhere I
+should not have cared much to meet John Robinson, for he was a man
+who had never done well in the world.  He had been in business and
+connected with a fairly good house in Sise Lane, but he had married
+early, and things had not exactly gone well with him.  I don't think
+the house broke, but he did; and so he was driven to take himself
+and five children off to Australia.  Elsewhere I should not have
+cared to come across him, but I was positively glad to be slapped on
+the back by anybody on that landing-place in front of Shepheard's
+Hotel at Cairo.
+
+I soon learned that Robinson with his wife and children, and indeed
+with all the rest of the Australian cargo, were to be passed on to
+Suez that afternoon, and after a while I agreed to accompany their
+party.  I had made up my mind, on coming out from England, that I
+would see all the wonders of Egypt, and hitherto I had seen nothing.
+I did ride on one day some fifteen miles on a donkey to see the
+petrified forest; but the guide, who called himself a dragoman, took
+me wrong or cheated me in some way.  We rode half the day over a
+stony, sandy plain, seeing nothing, with a terrible wind that filled
+my mouth with grit, and at last the dragoman got off.  "Dere," said
+he, picking up a small bit of stone, "Dis is de forest made of
+stone.  Carry that home."  Then we turned round and rode back to
+Cairo.  My chief observation as to the country was this--that
+whichever way we went, the wind blew into our teeth.  The day's work
+cost me five-and-twenty shillings, and since that I had not as yet
+made any other expedition.  I was therefore glad of an opportunity
+of going to Suez, and of making the journey in company with an
+acquaintance.
+
+At that time the railway was open, as far as I remember, nearly half
+the way from Cairo to Suez.  It did not run four or five times a
+day, as railways do in other countries, but four or five times a
+month.  In fact, it only carried passengers on the arrival of these
+flocks passing between England and her Eastern possessions.  There
+were trains passing backwards and forwards constantly, as I
+perceived in walking to and from the station; but, as I learned,
+they carried nothing but the labourers working on the line, and the
+water sent into the Desert for their use.  It struck me forcibly at
+the time that I should not have liked to have money in that
+investment.
+
+Well; I went with Robinson to Suez.  The journey, like everything
+else in Egypt, was sandy, hot, and unpleasant.  The railway
+carriages were pretty fair, and we had room enough; but even in them
+the dust was a great nuisance.  We travelled about ten miles an
+hour, and stopped about an hour at every ten miles.  This was
+tedious, but we had cigars with us and a trifle of brandy and water;
+and in this manner the railway journey wore itself away.  In the
+middle of the night, however, we were moved from the railway
+carriages into omnibuses, as they were called, and then I was not
+comfortable.  These omnibuses were wooden boxes, placed each upon a
+pair of wheels, and supposed to be capable of carrying six
+passengers.  I was thrust into one with Robinson, his wife and five
+children, and immediately began to repent of my good-nature in
+accompanying them.  To each vehicle were attached four horses or
+mules, and I must acknowledge that as on the railway they went as
+slow as possible, so now in these conveyances, dragged through the
+sand, they went as fast as the beasts could be made to gallop.  I
+remember the Fox Tally-ho coach on the Birmingham road when Boyce
+drove it, but as regards pace the Fox Tally-ho was nothing to these
+machines in Egypt.  On the first going off I was jolted right on to
+Mrs. R. and her infant; and for a long time that lady thought that
+the child had been squeezed out of its proper shape; but at last we
+arrived at Suez, and the baby seemed to me to be all right when it
+was handed down into the boat at Suez.
+
+The Robinsons were allowed time to breakfast at that cavernous
+hotel--which looked to me like a scheme to save the expense of the
+passengers' meal on board the ship--and then they were off.  I shook
+hands with him heartily as I parted with him at the quay, and wished
+him well through all his troubles.  A man who takes a wife and five
+young children out into a colony, and that with his pockets but
+indifferently lined, certainly has his troubles before him.  So he
+has at home, no doubt; but, judging for myself, I should always
+prefer sticking to the old ship as long as there is a bag of
+biscuits in the locker.  Poor Robinson!  I have never heard a word
+of him or his since that day, and sincerely trust that the baby was
+none the worse for the little accident in the box.
+
+And now I had the prospect of a week before me at Suez, and the
+Robinsons had not been gone half an hour before I began to feel that
+I should have been better off even at Cairo.  I secured a bedroom at
+the hotel--I might have secured sixty bedrooms had I wanted them--
+and then went out and stood at the front door, or gate.  It is a
+large house, built round a quadrangle, looking with one front
+towards the head of the Red Sea, and with the other into and on a
+sandy, dead-looking, open square.  There I stood for ten minutes,
+and finding that it was too hot to go forth, returned to the long
+cavernous room in which we had breakfasted.  In that long cavernous
+room I was destined to eat all my meals for the next six days.  Now
+at Cairo I could, at any rate, see my fellow-creatures at their
+food.  So I lit a cigar, and began to wonder whether I could survive
+the week.  It was now clear to me that I had done a very rash thing
+in coming to Suez with the Robinsons.
+
+Somebody about the place had asked me my name, and I had told it
+plainly--George Walker.  I never was ashamed of my name yet, and
+never had cause to be.  I believe at this day it will go as far in
+Friday Street as any other.  A man may be popular, or he may not.
+That depends mostly on circumstances which are in themselves
+trifling.  But the value of his name depends on the way in which he
+is known at his bank.  I have never dealt in tea spoons or gravy
+spoons, but my name will go as far as another name.  "George
+Walker," I answered, therefore, in a tone of some little authority,
+to the man who asked me, and who sat inside the gate of the hotel in
+an old dressing-gown and slippers.
+
+That was a melancholy day with me, and twenty times before dinner
+did I wish myself back at Cairo.  I had been travelling all night,
+and therefore hoped that I might get through some little time in
+sleeping, but the mosquitoes attacked me the moment I laid myself
+down.  In other places mosquitoes torment you only at night, but at
+Suez they buzz around you, without ceasing, at all hours.  A
+scorching sun was blazing overhead, and absolutely forbade me to
+leave the house.  I stood for a while in the verandah, looking down
+at the few small vessels which were moored to the quay, but there
+was no life in them; not a sail was set, not a boatman or a sailor
+was to be seen, and the very water looked as though it were hot.  I
+could fancy the glare of the sun was cracking the paint on the
+gunwales of the boats.  I was the only visitor in the house, and
+during all the long hours of the morning it seemed as though the
+servants had deserted it.
+
+I dined at four; not that I chose that hour, but because no choice
+was given to me.  At the hotels in Egypt one has to dine at an hour
+fixed by the landlord, and no entreaties will suffice to obtain a
+meal at any other.  So at four I dined, and after dinner was again
+reduced to despair.
+
+I was sitting in the cavernous chamber almost mad at the prospect of
+the week before me, when I heard a noise as of various feet in the
+passage leading from the quadrangle.  Was it possible that other
+human beings were coming into the hotel--Christian human beings at
+whom I could look, whose voices I could hear, whose words I could
+understand, and with whom I might possibly associate?  I did not
+move, however, for I was still hot, and I knew that my chances might
+be better if I did not show myself over eager for companionship at
+the first moment.  The door, however, was soon opened, and I saw
+that at least in one respect I was destined to be disappointed.  The
+strangers who were entering the room were not Christians--if I might
+judge by the nature of the garments in which they were clothed.
+
+The door had been opened by the man in an old dressing-gown and
+slippers, whom I had seen sitting inside the gate.  He was the Arab
+porter of the hotel, and as he marshalled the new visitors into the
+room, I heard him pronounce some sound similar to my own name, and
+perceived that he pointed me out to the most prominent person of
+those who then entered the apartment.  This was a stout, portly man,
+dressed from head to foot in Eastern costume of the brightest
+colours.  He wore, not only the red fez cap which everybody wears--
+even I had accustomed myself to a fez cap--but a turban round it, of
+which the voluminous folds were snowy white.  His face was fat, but
+not the less grave, and the lower part of it was enveloped in a
+magnificent beard, which projected round it on all sides, and
+touched his breast as he walked.  It was a grand grizzled beard, and
+I acknowledged at a moment that it added a singular dignity to the
+appearance of the stranger.  His flowing robe was of bright colours,
+and the under garment which fitted close round his breast, and then
+descended, becoming beneath his sash a pair of the loosest
+pantaloons--I might, perhaps, better describe them as bags--was a
+rich tawny silk.  These loose pantaloons were tied close round his
+legs, above the ankle, and over a pair of scrupulously white
+stockings, and on his feet he wore a pair of yellow slippers.  It
+was manifest to me at a glance that the Arab gentleman was got up in
+his best raiment, and that no expense had been spared on his suit.
+
+And here I cannot but make a remark on the personal bearing of these
+Arabs.  Whether they be Arabs or Turks, or Copts, it is always the
+same.  They are a mean, false, cowardly race, I believe.  They will
+bear blows, and respect the man who gives them.  Fear goes further
+with them than love, and between man and man they understand nothing
+of forbearance.  He who does not exact from them all that he can
+exact is simply a fool in their estimation, to the extent of that
+which he loses.  In all this, they are immeasurably inferior to us
+who have had Christian teaching.  But in one thing they beat us.
+They always know how to maintain their personal dignity.
+
+Look at my friend and partner Judkins, as he stands with his hands
+in his trousers pockets at the door of our house in Friday Street.
+What can be meaner than his appearance?  He is a stumpy, short,
+podgy man; but then so also was my Arab friend at Suez.  Judkins is
+always dressed from head to foot in a decent black cloth suit; his
+coat is ever a dress coat, and is neither old nor shabby.  On his
+head he carries a shining new silk hat, such as fashion in our
+metropolis demands.  Judkins is rather a dandy than otherwise,
+piquing himself somewhat on his apparel.  And yet how mean is his
+appearance, as compared with the appearance of that Arab;--how mean
+also is his gait, how ignoble his step!  Judkins could buy that Arab
+out four times over, and hardly feel the loss; and yet were they to
+enter a room together, Judkins would know and acknowledge by his
+look that he was the inferior personage.  Not the less, should a
+personal quarrel arise between them, would Judkins punch the Arab's
+head; ay, and reduce him to utter ignominy at his feet.
+
+Judkins would break his heart in despair rather than not return a
+blow; whereas the Arab would put up with any indignity of that sort.
+Nevertheless Judkins is altogether deficient in personal dignity.  I
+often thought, as the hours hung in Egypt, whether it might not be
+practicable to introduce an oriental costume in Friday Street.
+
+At this moment, as the Arab gentleman entered the cavernous coffee-
+room, I felt that I was greatly the inferior personage.  He was
+followed by four or five others, dressed somewhat as himself; though
+by no means in such magnificent colours, and by one gentleman in a
+coat and trousers.  The gentleman in the coat and trousers came
+last, and I could see that he was one of the least of the number.
+As for myself, I felt almost overawed by the dignity of the stout
+party in the turban, and seeing that he came directly across the
+room to the place where I was seated, I got upon my legs and made
+him some sign of Christian obeisance.
+
+I am a little man, and not podgy, as is Judkins, and I flatter
+myself that I showed more deportment, at any rate, than he would
+have exhibited.
+
+I made, as I have said, some Christian obeisance.  I bobbed my head,
+that is, rubbing my hands together the while, and expressed an
+opinion that it was a fine day.  But if I was civil, as I hope I
+was, the Arab was much more so.  He advanced till he was about six
+paces from me, then placed his right hand open upon his silken
+breast,- and inclining forward with his whole body, made to me a bow
+which Judkins never could accomplish.  The turban and the flowing
+robe might be possible in Friday Street, but of what avail would be
+the outer garments and mere symbols, if the inner sentiment of
+personal dignity were wanting?  I have often since tried it when
+alone, but I could never accomplish anything like that bow.  The
+Arab with the flowing robe bowed, and the other Arabs all bowed
+also; and after that the Christian gentleman with the coat and
+trousers made a leg.  I made a leg also, rubbing my hands again, and
+added to my former remarks that it was rather hot.
+
+"Dat berry true," said the porter in the dirty dressing-gown, who
+stood by.  I could see at a glance that the manner of that porter
+towards me was greatly altered, and I began to feel comforted in my
+wretchedness.  Perhaps a Christian from Friday Street, with plenty
+of money in his pockets, would stand in higher esteem at Suez than
+at Cairo.  If so, that alone would go far to atone for the apparent
+wretchedness of the place.  At Cairo I had not received that
+attention which had certainly been due to me as the second partner
+in the flourishing Manchester house of Grimes, Walker, and Judkins.
+
+But now, as my friend with the beard again bowed to me, I felt that
+this deficiency was to be made up.  It was clear, however, that this
+new acquaintance, though I liked the manner of it, would be attended
+with considerable inconvenience, for the Arab gentleman commenced an
+address to me in French.  It has always been to me a source of
+sorrow that my parents did not teach me the French language, and
+this deficiency on my part has given rise to an incredible amount of
+supercilious overbearing pretension on the part of Judkins--who
+after all can hardly do more than translate a correspondent's
+letter.  I do not believe that he could have understood that Arab's
+oration, but at any rate I did not.  He went on to the end, however,
+speaking for some three or four minutes, and then again he bowed.
+If I could only have learned that bow, I might still have been
+greater than Judkins with all his French.
+
+"I am very sorry," said I, "but I don't exactly follow the French
+language when it is spoken."
+
+"Ah! no French!" said the Arab in very broken English, "dat is one
+sorrow."  How is it that these fellows learn all languages under the
+sun?  I afterwards found that this man could talk Italian, and
+Turkish, and Armenian fluently, and say a few words in German, as he
+could also in English.  I could not ask for my dinner in any other
+language than English, if it were to save me from starvation.  Then
+he called to the Christian gentleman in the pantaloons, and, as far
+as I could understand, made over to him the duty of interpreting
+between us.  There seemed, however, to be one difficulty in the way
+of this being carried on with efficiency.  The Christian gentleman
+could not speak English himself.  He knew of it perhaps something
+more than did the Arab, but by no means enough to enable us to have
+a fluent conversation.
+
+And had the interpreter--who turned out to be an Italian from
+Trieste, attached to the Austrian Consulate at Alexandria--had the
+interpreter spoken English with the greatest ease, I should have had
+considerable difficulty in understanding and digesting in all its
+bearings, the proposition made to me.  But before I proceed to the
+proposition, I must describe a ceremony which took place previous to
+its discussion.  I had hardly observed, when first the procession
+entered the room, that one of my friend's followers--my friend's
+name, as I learned afterwards, was Mahmoud al Ackbar, and I will
+therefore call him Mahmoud--that one of Mahmoud's followers bore in
+his arms a bundle of long sticks, and that another carried an iron
+pot and a tray.  Such was the case, and these two followers came
+forward to perform their services, while I, having been literally
+pressed down on to the sofa by Mahmoud, watched them in their
+progress.  Mahmoud also sat down, and not a word was spoken while
+the ceremony went on.  The man with the sticks first placed on the
+ground two little pans--one at my feet, and then one at the feet of
+his master.  After that he loosed an ornamented bag which he carried
+round his neck, and producing from it tobacco, proceeded to fill two
+pipes.  This he did with the utmost gravity, and apparently with
+very peculiar care.  The pipes had been already fixed at one end of
+the stick, and to the other end the man had fastened two large
+yellow balls.  These, as I afterwards perceived, were mouth-pieces
+made of amber.  Then he lit the pipes, drawing up the difficult
+smoke by long painful suckings at the mouthpiece, and then, when the
+work had become apparently easy, he handed one pipe to me, and the
+other to his master.  The bowls he had first placed in the little
+pans on the ground.
+
+During all this time no word was spoken, and I was left altogether
+in the dark as to the cause which had produced this extraordinary
+courtesy.  There was a stationary sofa--they called it there a
+divan--which was fixed into the corner of the room, and on one side
+of the angle sat Mahmoud al Ackbar, with his feet tucked under him,
+while I sat on the other.  The remainder of the party stood around,
+and I felt so little master of the occasion, that I did not know
+whether it would become me to bid them be seated.  I was not master
+of the entertainment.  They were not my pipes.  Nor was it my
+coffee, which I saw one of the followers preparing in a distant part
+of the room.  And, indeed, I was much confused as to the management
+of the stick and amber mouth-piece with which I had been presented.
+With a cigar I am as much at home as any man in the City.  I can
+nibble off the end of it, and smoke it to the last ash, when I am
+three parts asleep.  But I had never before been invited to regale
+myself with such an instrument as this.  What was I to do with that
+huge yellow ball?  So I watched my new friend closely.
+
+It had manifestly been a part of his urbanity not to commence till I
+had done so, but seeing my difficulty he at last raised the ball to
+his mouth and sucked at it.  I looked at him and envied the gravity
+of his countenance, and the dignity of his demeanour.  I sucked
+also, but I made a sputtering noise, and must confess that I did not
+enjoy it.  The smoke curled gracefully from his mouth and nostrils
+as he sat there in mute composure.  I was mute as regarded speech,
+but I coughed as the smoke came from me in convulsive puffs.  And
+then the attendant brought us coffee in little tin cups--black
+coffee, without sugar and full of grit, of which the berries had
+been only bruised, not ground.  I took the cup and swallowed the
+mixture, for I could not refuse, but I wish that I might have asked
+for some milk and sugar.  Nevertheless there was something very
+pleasing in the whole ceremony, and at last I began to find myself
+more at home with my pipe.
+
+When Mahmoud had exhausted his tobacco, and perceived that I also
+had ceased to puff forth smoke, he spoke in Italian to the
+interpreter, and the interpreter forthwith proceeded to explain to
+me the purport of this visit.  This was done with much difficulty,
+for the interpreter's stock of English was very scanty--but after
+awhile I understood, or thought I understood, as follows:- At some
+previous period of my existence I had done some deed which had given
+infinite satisfaction to Mahmoud al Ackbar.  Whether, however, I had
+done it myself, or whether my father had done it, was not quite
+clear to me.  My father, then some time deceased, had been a
+wharfinger at Liverpool, and it was quite possible that Mahmoud
+might have found himself at that port.  Mahmoud had heard of my
+arrival in Egypt, and had been given to understand that I was coming
+to Suez--to carry myself away in the ship, as the interpreter
+phrased it.  This I could not understand, but I let it pass.  Having
+heard these agreeable tidings--and Mahmoud, sitting in the corner,
+bowed low to me as this was said--he had prepared for my acceptance
+a slight refection for the morrow, hoping that I would not carry
+myself away in the ship till this had been eaten.  On this subject I
+soon made him quite at ease, and he then proceeded to explain that
+as there was a point of interest at Suez, Mahmoud was anxious that I
+should partake of the refection somewhat in the guise of a picnic,
+at the Well of Moses, over in Asia, on the other side of the head of
+the Red Sea.  Mahmoud would provide a boat to take across the party
+in the morning, and camels on which we would return after sunset.
+Or else we would go and return on camels, or go on camels and return
+in the boat.  Indeed any arrangement would be made that I preferred.
+If I was afraid of the heat, and disliked the open boat, I could be
+carried round in a litter.  The provisions had already been sent
+over to the Well of Moses in the anticipation that I would not
+refuse this little request.
+
+I did not refuse it.  Nothing could have been more agreeable to me
+than this plan of seeing something of the sights and wonders of this
+land,--and of this seeing them in good company.  I had not heard of
+the Well of Moses before, but now that I learned that it was in
+Asia,--in another quarter of the globe, to be reached by a transit
+of the Red Sea, to be returned from by a journey on camels' backs,--
+I burned with anxiety to visit its waters.  What a story would this
+be for Judkins!  This was, no doubt, the point at which the
+Israelites had passed.  Of those waters had they drunk.  I almost
+felt that I had already found one of Pharaoh's chariot wheels.  I
+readily gave my assent, and then, with much ceremony and many low
+salaams, Mahmoud and his attendant left me.  "I am very glad that I
+came to Suez," said I to myself.
+
+I did not sleep much that night, for the mosquitoes of Suez are very
+persevering; but I was saved from the agonising despair which these
+animals so frequently produce, by my agreeable thoughts as to
+Mahmoud al Ackbar.  I will put it to any of my readers who have
+travelled, whether it is not a painful thing to find one's-self
+regarded among strangers without any kindness or ceremonious
+courtesy.  I had on this account been wretched at Cairo, but all
+this was to be made up to me at Suez.  Nothing could be more
+pleasant than the whole conduct of Mahmoud al Ackbar, and I
+determined to take full advantage of it, not caring overmuch what
+might be the nature of those previous favours to which he had
+alluded.  That was his look-out, and if he was satisfied, why should
+not I be so also?
+
+On the following morning I was dressed at six, and, looking out of
+my bed-room, I saw the boat in which we were to be wafted into Asia
+being brought up to the quay close under my window.  It had been
+arranged that we should start early, so as to avoid the mid-day sun,
+breakfast in the boat,--Mahmoud in this way engaged to provide me
+with two refections,--take our rest at noon in a pavilion which had
+been built close upon the well of the patriarch, and then eat our
+dinner, and return riding upon camels in the cool of the evening.
+Nothing could sound more pleasant than such a plan; and knowing as I
+did that the hampers of provisions had already been sent over, I did
+not doubt that the table arrangements would be excellent.  Even now,
+standing at my window, I could see a basket laden with long-necked
+bottles going into the boat, and became aware that we should not
+depend altogether for our morning repast on that gritty coffee which
+my friend Mahmoud's followers prepared.
+
+I had promised to be ready at six, and having carefully completed my
+toilet, and put a clean collar and comb into my pocket ready for
+dinner, I descended to the great gateway and walked slowly round to
+the quay.  As I passed out, the porter greeted me with a low
+obeisance, and walking on, I felt that I stepped the ground with a
+sort of dignity of which I had before been ignorant.  It is not, as
+a rule, the man who gives grace and honour to the position, but the
+position which confers the grace and honour upon the man.  I have
+often envied the solemn gravity and grand demeanour of the Lord
+Chancellor, as I have seen him on the bench; but I almost think that
+even Judkins would look grave and dignified under such a wig.
+Mahmoud al Ackbar had called upon me and done me honour, and I felt
+myself personally capable of sustaining before the people of Suez
+the honour which he had done me.
+
+As I walked forth with a proud step from beneath the portal, I
+perceived, looking down from the square along the street, that there
+was already some commotion in the town.  I saw the flowing robes of
+many Arabs, with their backs turned towards me, and I thought that I
+observed the identical gown and turban of my friend Mahmoud on the
+back and head of a stout short man, who was hurrying round a corner
+in the distance.  I felt sure that it was Mahmoud.  Some of his
+servants had failed in their preparations, I said to myself, as I
+made my way round to the water's edge.  This was only another
+testimony how anxious he was to do me honour.
+
+I stood for a while on the edge of the quay looking into the boat,
+and admiring the comfortable cushions which were luxuriously
+arranged around the seats.  The men who were at work did not know
+me, and I was unnoticed, but I should soon take my place upon the
+softest of those cushions.  I walked slowly backwards and forwards
+on the quay, listening to a hum of voices that came to me from a
+distance.  There was clearly something stirring in the town, and I
+felt certain that all the movement and all those distant voices were
+connected in some way with my expedition to the Well of Moses.  At
+last there came a lad upon the walk dressed in Frank costume, and I
+asked him what was in the wind.  He was a clerk attached to an
+English warehouse, and he told me that there had been an arrival
+from Cairo.
+
+He knew no more than that, but he had heard that the omnibuses had
+just come in.  Could it be possible that Mahmoud al Ackbar had heard
+of another old acquaintance, and had gone to welcome him also?
+
+At first my ideas on the subject were altogether pleasant.  I by no
+means wished to monopolise the delights of all those cushions, nor
+would it be to me a cause of sorrow that there should be some one to
+share with me the conversational powers of that interpreter.  Should
+another guest be found, he might also be an Englishman, and I might
+thus form an acquaintance which would be desirable.  Thinking of
+these things, I walked the quay for some minutes in a happy state of
+mind; but by degrees I became impatient, and by degrees also
+disturbed in my spirit.  I observed that one of the Arab boatmen
+walked round from the vessel to the front of the hotel, and that on
+his return he looked at me--as I thought, not with courteous eyes.
+Then also I saw, or rather heard, some one in the verandah of the
+hotel above me, and was conscious that I was being viewed from
+thence.  I walked and walked, and nobody came to me, and I perceived
+by my watch that it was seven o'clock.  The noise, too, had come
+nearer and nearer, and I was now aware that wheels had been drawn up
+before the front door of the hotel, and that many voices were
+speaking there.  It might be that Mahmoud should wait for some other
+friend, but why did he not send some one to inform me?  And then, as
+I made a sudden turn at the end of the quay, I caught sight of the
+retreating legs of the Austrian interpreter, and I became aware that
+he had been sent down, and had gone away, afraid to speak to me.
+"What can I do?" said I to myself, "I can but keep my ground."  I
+owned that I feared to go round to the front of the hotel.  So I
+still walked slowly up and down the length of the quay, and began to
+whistle to show that I was not uneasy.  The Arab sailors looked at
+me uncomfortably, and from time to time some one peered at me round
+the corner.  It was now fully half-past seven, and the sun was
+becoming hot in the heavens.  Why did we not hasten to place
+ourselves beneath the awning in that boat.
+
+I had just made up my mind that I would go round to the front and
+penetrate this mystery, when, on turning, I saw approaching to me a
+man dressed at any rate like an English gentleman.  As he came near
+to me, he raised his hat, and accosted me in our own language.  "Mr.
+George Walker, I believe?" said he.
+
+"Yes," said I, with some little attempt at a high demeanour, -"of
+the firm of Grimes, Walker, and Judkins, Friday Street, London."
+
+"A most respectable house, I am sure," said he.  "I am afraid there
+has been a little mistake here."
+
+"No mistake as to the respectability of that house," said I.  I felt
+that I was again alone in the world, and that it was necessary that
+I should support myself.  Mahmoud al Ackbar had separated himself
+from me for ever.  Of that I had no longer a doubt.
+
+"Oh, none at all," said he.  "But about this little expedition over
+the water;" and he pointed contemptuously to the boat.  "There has
+been a mistake about that, Mr. Walker; I happen to be the English
+Vice-Consul here."
+
+I took off my hat and bowed.  It was the first time I had ever been
+addressed civilly by any English consular authority.
+
+"And they have made me get out of bed to come down here and explain
+all this to you."
+
+"All what?" said I.
+
+"You are a man of the world, I know, and I'll just tell it you
+plainly.  My old friend, Mahmoud al Ackbar, has mistaken you for Sir
+George Walker, the new Lieutenant-Governor of Pegu.  Sir George
+Walker is here now; he has come this morning; and Mahmoud is ashamed
+to face you after what has occurred.  If you won't object to
+withdraw with me into the hotel, I'll explain it all."
+
+I felt as though a thunderbolt had fallen; and I must say, that even
+up to this day I think that the Consul might have been a little less
+abrupt.  "We can get in here," said he, evidently in a hurry, and
+pointing to a small door which opened out from one corner of the
+house to the quay.  What could I do but follow him?  I did follow
+him, and in a few words learned the remainder of the story.  When he
+had once withdrawn me from the public walk he seemed but little
+anxious about the rest, and soon left me again alone.  The facts, as
+far as I could learn them, were simply these.
+
+Sir George Walker, who was now going out to Pegu as Governor, had
+been in India before, commanding an army there.  I had never heard
+of him before, and had made no attempt to pass myself off as his
+relative.  Nobody could have been more innocent than I was--or have
+received worse usage.  I have as much right to the name as he has.
+Well; when he was in India before, he had taken the city of Begum
+after a terrible siege--Begum, I think the Consul called it; and
+Mahmoud had been there, having been, it seems, a great man at Begum,
+and Sir George had spared him and his money; and in this way the
+whole thing had come to pass.  There was no further explanation than
+that.  The rest of it was all transparent.  Mahmoud, having heard my
+name from the porter, had hurried down to invite me to his party.
+So far so good.  But why had he been afraid to face me in the
+morning?  And, seeing that the fault had all been his, why had he
+not asked me to join the expedition?  Sir George and I may, after
+all, be cousins.  But, coward as he was, he had been afraid of me.
+When they found that I was on the quay, they had been afraid of me,
+not knowing how to get rid of me.  I wish that I had kept the quay
+all day, and stared them down one by one as they entered the boat.
+But I was down in the mouth, and when the Consul left me, I crept
+wearily back to my bedroom.
+
+And the Consul did leave me almost immediately.  A faint hope had,
+at one time, come upon me that he would have asked me to breakfast.
+Had he done so, I should have felt it as a full compensation for all
+that I had suffered.  I am not an exacting man, but I own that I
+like civility.  In Friday Street I can command it, and in Friday
+Street for the rest of my life will I remain.  From this Consul I
+received no civility.  As soon as he had got me out of the way and
+spoken the few words which he had to say, he again raised his hat
+and left me.  I also again raised mine, and then crept up to my bed-
+room.
+
+From my window, standing a little behind the white curtain, I could
+see the whole embarkation.  There was Mahmoud al Ackbar, looking
+indeed a little hot, but still going through his work with all that
+excellence of deportment which had graced him on the preceding
+evening.  Had his foot slipped, and had he fallen backwards into
+that shallow water, my spirit would, I confess, have been relieved.
+But, on the contrary, everything went well with him.  There was the
+real Sir George, my namesake and perhaps my cousin, as fresh as
+paint, cool from the bath which he had been taking while I had been
+walking on that terrace.  How is it that these governors and
+commanders-in-chief go through such a deal of work without fagging?
+It was not yet two hours since he was jolting about in that omnibus-
+box, and there he had been all night.  I could not have gone off to
+the Well of Moses immediately on my arrival.  It's the dignity of
+the position that does it.  I have long known that the head of a
+firm must never count on a mere clerk to get through as much work as
+he could do himself.  It's the interest in the matter that supports
+the man.
+
+They went, and Sir George, as I was well assured, had never heard a
+word about me.  Had he done so, is it probable that he would have
+requested my attendance?
+
+But Mahmoud and his followers no doubt kept their own counsel as to
+that little mistake.  There they went, and the gentle rippling
+breeze filled their sail pleasantly, as the boat moved away into the
+bay.  I felt no spite against any of them but Mahmoud.  Why had he
+avoided me with such cowardice?  I could still see them when the
+morning tchibouk was handed to Sir George; and, though I wished him
+no harm, I did envy him as he lay there reclining luxuriously upon
+the cushions.
+
+A more wretched day than that I never spent in my life.  As I went
+in and out, the porter at the gate absolutely scoffed at me.  Once I
+made up my mind to complain within the house.  But what could I have
+said of the dirty Arab?  They would have told me that it was his
+religion, or a national observance, or meant for a courtesy.  What
+can a man do, in a strange country, when he is told that a native
+spits in his face by way of civility?  I bore it, I bore it--like a
+man; and sighed for the comforts of Friday Street.
+
+As to one matter, I made up my mind on that day, and I fully carried
+out my purpose on the next:  I would go across to the Well of Moses
+in a boat.  I would visit the coasts of Asia.  And I would ride back
+into Africa on a camel.  Though I did it alone, I would have my
+day's pleasuring.  I had money in my pocket, and, though it might
+cost me 20 pounds, I would see all that my namesake had seen.  It
+did cost me the best part of 20 pounds; and as for the pleasuring, I
+cannot say much for it.
+
+I went to bed early that night, having concluded my bargain for the
+morrow with a rapacious Arab who spoke English.  I went to bed early
+in order to escape the returning party, and was again on the quay at
+six the next morning.  On this occasion, I stepped boldly into the
+boat the very moment that I came along the shore.  There is nothing
+in the world like paying for what you use.  I saw myself to the
+bottle of brandy and the cold meat, and acknowledged that a cigar
+out of my own case would suit me better than that long stick.  The
+long stick might do very well for a Governor of Pegu, but would be
+highly inconvenient in Friday Street.
+
+Well, I am not going to give an account of my day's journey here,
+though perhaps I may do so some day.  I did go to the Well of Moses-
+-if a small dirty pool of salt water, lying high above the sands,
+can be called a well; I did eat my dinner in the miserable ruined
+cottage which they graced by the name of a pavilion; and, alas for
+my poor bones! I did ride home upon a camel.  If Sir George did so
+early, and started for Pegu the next morning--and I was informed
+such was the fact--he must have been made of iron.  I laid in bed
+the whole day suffering greviously; but I was told that on such a
+journey I should have slakened my throat with oranges, and not with
+brandy.
+
+I survived those four terrible days which remained to me at Suez,
+and after another month was once again in Friday Street.  I suffered
+greatly on the occasion; but it is some consolation to me to reflect
+that I smoked a pipe of peace with Mahmoud al Ackbar; that I saw the
+hero of Begum while journeying out to new triumphs at Pegu; that I
+sailed into Asia in my own yacht--hired for the occasion; and that I
+rode back into Africa on a camel.  Nor can Judkins, with all his
+ill-nature, rob me of these remembrances.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg Etext George Walker At Suez, by Anthony Trollope
+
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