diff options
| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 20:07:15 -0700 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 20:07:15 -0700 |
| commit | c5a8bdd59017df04b3c69254f1664c3990ce412b (patch) | |
| tree | 2e26a689c93ab9e1a6d4ac52d0d88144066dfa4f /37122.txt | |
Diffstat (limited to '37122.txt')
| -rw-r--r-- | 37122.txt | 9287 |
1 files changed, 9287 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/37122.txt b/37122.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..5a730d4 --- /dev/null +++ b/37122.txt @@ -0,0 +1,9287 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Hunting in Many Lands, by Various + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Hunting in Many Lands + The Book of the Boone and Crockett Club + +Author: Various + +Editor: Theodore Roosevelt + George Bird Grinnell + +Release Date: August 18, 2011 [EBook #37122] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HUNTING IN MANY LANDS *** + + + + +Produced by David Edwards, Linda Hamilton and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + + + + + + + + +_Hunting in Many Lands_ + +_The Book of the Boone and Crockett Club_ + + + + +[Illustration: THE CROWN OF CHIEF MOUNTAIN FROM THE SOUTHEAST.] + + + + + Hunting In Many Lands + + =The Book of the Boone and Crockett Club= + + EDITORS + + THEODORE ROOSEVELT + GEORGE BIRD GRINNELL + + [Illustration] + + NEW-YORK + FOREST AND STREAM PUBLISHING COMPANY + 1895 + + + + + Copyright, 1895, by + Forest and Stream Publishing Company + + Forest and Stream Press, + New York, N. Y., U. S. A. + + + + +Contents + + + Page + + Hunting in East Africa 13 + W. A. Chanler. + + To the Gulf of Cortez 55 + George H. Gould. + + A Canadian Moose Hunt 84 + Madison Grant. + + A Hunting Trip in India 107 + Elliott Roosevelt. + + Dog Sledging in the North 123 + D. M. Barringer. + + Wolf-Hunting in Russia 151 + Henry T. Allen. + + A Bear-Hunt in the Sierras 187 + Alden Sampson. + + The Ascent of Chief Mountain 220 + Henry L. Stimson. + + The Cougar 238 + Casper W. Whitney. + + Big Game of Mongolia and Tibet 255 + W. W. Rockhill. + + Hunting in the Cattle Country 278 + Theodore Roosevelt. + + Wolf-Coursing 318 + Roger D. Williams. + + Game Laws 358 + Charles E. Whitehead. + + Protection of the Yellowstone National Park 377 + George S. Anderson. + + * * * * * + + The Yellowstone National Park Protection + Act 403 + + Head-Measurements of the Trophies at + the Madison Square Garden Sportsmen's + Exposition 424 + + National Park Protective Act 433 + + Constitution of the Boone and Crockett + Club 439 + + Officers of the Boone and Crockett Club 442 + + List of Members 443 + + + + +List of Illustrations + + + Crown of Chief Mountain Frontispiece + From the southeast. One-half mile + distant. Photographed by Dr. Walter + B. James. + + Facing page + A Mountain Sheep 55 + Photographed from Life. From Forest and + Stream. + + Rocky Mountain and Polo's Sheep 75 + The figures are drawn to the same scale + and show the difference in the spread + of horns. From Forest and Stream. + + A Moose of the Upper Ottawa 85 + Killed by Madison Grant, October 10, + 1893. + + How our Outfit was Carried 123 + Photographed by D. M. Barringer. + + Outeshai, Russian Barzoi 151 + Winner of the hare-coursing prize at + Colombiagi (near St. Petersburg) two + years in succession. In type, however, + he is faulty. + + Fox-hounds of the Imperial Kennels 177 + The men and dogs formed part of the + hunt described. + + The Chief's Crown from the East 229 + Photographed by Dr. Walter B. James. + Distance, two miles. + + Yaks Grazing 255 + Photographed by Hon. W. W. Rockhill. + + Ailuropus Melanoleucus 263 + From Forest and Stream. + + Elaphurus Davidianus 271 + + The Wolf Throwing Zlooem, the Barzoi 319 + From Leslie's Weekly. + + Yellowstone Park Elk 377 + From Forest and Stream. + + A Hunting Day 395 + From Forest and Stream. + + In Yellowstone Park Snows 413 + From Forest and Stream. + + On the Shore of Yellowstone Lake 419 + From Forest and Stream. + + NOTE.--The mountain sheep's head on the cover is from a photograph + of the head of the big ram killed by Mr. Gould in Lower California, + as described in the article "To the Gulf of Cortez." + + + + +Preface + + +The first volume published by the Boone and Crockett Club, under the +title "American Big Game Hunting," confined itself, as its title +implied, to sport on this continent. In presenting the second volume, a +number of sketches are included written by members who have hunted big +game in other lands. The contributions of those whose names are so well +known in connection with explorations in China and Tibet, and in Africa, +have an exceptional interest for men whose use of the rifle has been +confined entirely to the North American continent. + +During the two years that have elapsed since the appearance of its last +volume, the Boone and Crockett Club has not been idle. The activity of +its members was largely instrumental in securing at last the passage by +Congress of an act to protect the Yellowstone National Park, and to +punish crimes and offenses within its borders, though it may be +questioned whether even their efforts would have had any result had not +the public interest been aroused, and the Congressional conscience +pricked, by the wholesale slaughter of buffalo which took place in the +Park in March, 1894, as elsewhere detailed by Capt. Anderson and the +editors. Besides this, the Club has secured the passage, by the New York +Legislature, of an act incorporating the New York Zoological Society, +and a considerable representation of the Club is found in the list of +its officers and managers. Other efforts, made by Boone and Crockett +members in behalf of game and forest protection, have been less +successful, and there is still a wide field for the Club's activities. + +Public sentiment should be aroused on the general question of forest +preservation, and especially in the matter of securing legislation which +will adequately protect the game and the forests of the various forest +reservations already established. Special attention was called to this +point in the earlier volume published by the Club, from which we quote: + + If it was worth while to establish these reservations, it is worth + while to protect them. A general law, providing for the adequate + guarding of all such national possessions, should be enacted by + Congress, and wherever it may be necessary such Federal laws should + be supplemented by laws of the States in which the reservations + lie. The timber and the game ought to be made the absolute property + of the Government, and it should be constituted a punishable + offense to appropriate such property within the limits of the + reservation. The game and timber on a reservation should be + regarded as Government property, just as are the mules and the + cordwood at an army post. If it is a crime to take the latter, it + should be a crime to plunder a forest reservation. + + In these reservations is to be found to-day every species of large + game known to the United States, and the proper protection of the + reservations means the perpetuating in full supply of all the + indigenous mammals. If this care is provided, no species of + American large game need ever become absolutely extinct; and + intelligent effort for game protection may well be directed toward + securing through national legislation the policing of forest + preserves by timber and game wardens. + +A really remarkable phenomenon in American animal life, described in the +paper on the Yellowstone Park Protection Act, is the attitude now +assumed toward mankind by the bears, both grizzly and black, in the +Yellowstone National Park. The preservation of the game in the Park has +unexpectedly resulted in turning a great many of the bears into +scavengers for the hotels within the Park limits. Their tameness and +familiarity are astonishing; they act much more like hogs than beasts of +prey. Naturalists now have a chance of studying their character from an +entirely new standpoint, and under entirely new conditions. It would be +well worth the while of any student of nature to devote an entire +season in the Park simply to study of bear life; never before has such +an opportunity been afforded. + +The incident mentioned on page 421 was witnessed by Mr. W. Hallett +Phillipps and Col. John Hay. Since this incident occurred, one bear has +made a practice of going into the kitchen of the Geyser Hotel, where he +is fed on pies. If given a chance, the bears will eat the pigs that are +kept in pens near the hotels; but they have not shown any tendency to +molest the horses, or to interfere in any way with the human beings +around the hotels. + +These incidents, and the confidence which the elk, deer and other +animals in the Park have come to feel in man, are interesting, for they +show how readily wild creatures may be taught to look upon human beings +as friends. + + THEODORE ROOSEVELT, + GEORGE BIRD GRINNELL. + + NEW YORK, August 1, 1895. + + + + +Hunting in Many Lands + + + + +Hunting in East Africa + + +In the month of July, 1889, I was encamped in the Taveta forest, 250 +miles from the east coast, and at the eastern foot of Mt. Kilimanjaro. I +was accompanied by my servant, George Galvin, an American lad seventeen +years old, and had a following of 130 Zanzibaris. My battery consisted +of the following weapons: one 8-bore smooth, using a cartridge loaded +with 10 drams of powder and a 2-ounce spherical ball; one .577 and one +.450 Express rifle, and one 12-bore Paradox. All these were made by +Messrs. Holland & Holland. My servant carried an old 12-bore rifle made +by Lang (intended to shoot 4-1/2 drams of powder, but whose cartridges +he recklessly loaded with more than 7) and a .45-90 Winchester of the +model of 1886. + +Taveta forest has been often described by pens far abler than mine, so I +will not attempt to do this. It is inhabited by a most friendly tribe of +savages, who at the time of my visit to them possessed sufficient food +to be able to supply the wants of my caravan. I therefore made it a base +at which I could leave the major part of my following, and from which I +could with comfort and safety venture forth on shooting trips, +accompanied by only a few men. + +The first of these excursions was made to the shores of Lake Jipe, six +hours' march from Taveta, for the purpose of shooting hippos. I took +with me my whole battery and thirteen men. This unlucky number perhaps +influenced my fortunes, for I returned to Taveta empty handed and fever +stricken, after a stay on the shores of the lake lasting some days. +However, my experiences were interesting, if only because they were in +great measure the result of ignorance. Up to this time my sporting +experience had dealt only with snipe and turkey shooting in Florida, for +on my road from the coast, the little game seen was too wary to give me +a chance of putting a rifle to my shoulder. + +The shores of Lake Jipe, where I pitched my tent, were quite flat and +separated from the open water of the lake by a wide belt of swamp +growth. I had brought with me, for the purpose of constructing a raft, +several bundles of the stems of a large palm growing in Taveta. These +were dry and as light as cork. In a few hours' time my men constructed a +raft, fifteen feet in length and five feet in width. On trial, it was +found capable of supporting two men, but even with this light load it +sank some inches below the surface of the water. I fastened a deal box +on the forward end as seat, and instructed one of the men, who said he +understood boatman's work, to stand in the stern and punt the craft +along with a pole. During the night my slumbers were constantly +disturbed by the deep, ominous grunting of hippopotami, which, as if to +show their contempt for my prowess, chose a path to their feeding +grounds which led them within a few yards of my camp. The night, though +starlit, was too dark for a shot, so I curbed my impatience till the +morning. + +As most people are aware, the day begins in the tropics as nearly as +possible at 6 o'clock and lasts twelve hours. Two hours before dawn I +was up and fortifying myself against the damp morning air with a good +breakfast of roast chicken, rice and coffee. My men, wrapped in their +thin cotton shirts, lay about the fires on the damp ground, seemingly +unmindful of rheumatism and fever, and only desirous to sleep as long +as possible. I awoke my crew at a little after 5, and he, unassisted, +launched the raft. The swamp grass buoyed it up manfully, so that it +looked as if it disdained to touch the yellow waters of the lake. When +it had been pushed along till the water was found to be two feet deep, I +had myself carried to the raft and seated myself on the box. I was clad +only in a flannel shirt, and carried my .577 with ten rounds of +ammunition. As we slowly started on our way, my men woke up one by one, +and shouted cheering words to us, such as, "Look out for the +crocodiles!" "If master dies, who'll pay us!" These cries, added to the +dismal chill of the air and my boatman's only too apparent dislike of +his job, almost caused me to turn back; but, of course, that was out of +the question. + +Half an hour from the shore found me on the edge of the open water, and, +as if to endorse my undertaking, day began to break. That sunrise! +Opposite me the rough outlines of the Ugucno Mountains, rising several +thousand feet, lost their shadows one by one, and far to the right +towered Mt. Kilimanjaro, nearly four miles high, its snowy rounded top +roseate with the soft light of dawn. But in Africa at least one's +higher sensibilities are dulled by the animal side of his nature, and I +fear I welcomed the sun more for the warmth of its rays than for the +beautiful and fleeting vision it produced. Then the hippos! While the +sun was rising my raft was not at rest, but was being propelled by slow +strong strokes toward the center of the lake, and as the darkness +lessened I saw the surface of the lake dotted here and there by spots, +which soon resolved themselves into the black, box-like heads of my +game. They were to all appearance motionless and appeared quite +unconscious or indifferent to the presence, in their particular domain, +of our strange craft and its burden. + +I approached them steadily, going more slowly as the water grew deeper, +and more time was needed for the pulling out and dipping in of the pole. +When, however, I had reached a position some 150 yards from the nearest +group, five in number, they all with a loud snort faced me. I kept on, +despite the ardent prayer of the boatman, and when within 100 yards, and +upon seeing three of the hippos disappear beneath the surface, I took +careful aim and fired at the nearest of the remaining two. I could see +the splash of my bullet as it skipped harmlessly along the surface of +the lake, and knew I had missed. At once all heads in sight disappeared. +There must have been fifty in view when the sun rose. Presently, one by +one, they reappeared, and this time, as if impelled by curiosity, came +much closer than before. I took aim at one not fifty yards away, and +could hear the thud of the bullet as it struck. I thought, as the hippo +at once disappeared, that it was done for. I had not yet learned that +the brain of these animals is very small, and that the only fatal shot +is under the ear. + +After this shot, as after my first, all heads vanished, but this time I +had to wait much longer ere they ventured to show themselves. When they +did reappear, however, it was too close for comfort. One great head, +blinking its small eyes and holding its little horselike ears at +attention, was not twenty feet away, and another was still closer on my +other side. While hesitating at which to shoot I lost my opportunity, +for they both ducked simultaneously. + +I was riveted to my uncomfortable seat, and I could hear my boatman +murmuring "Allah!" with fright, when slowly, but steadily, I felt the +raft rise under my feet. Instinctively I remembered I had but one .577 +rifle, and hastened, my hands trembling, to fasten it with a loose +rope's end to the raft. My boatman yelled with terror, and at that +fearful cry the raft splashed back in the water and all was again still. +One of the hippos, either with his back or head, must have come in +contact with the bottom of the raft as he rose to the surface. How far +he would have gone had not the negro screamed I do not know, but as it +was it seemed as if we were being held in mid air for many minutes. I +fancy the poor brute was almost as frightened as we were, for he did not +reappear near the raft. + +I now thought discretion the better part of valor, and satisfied myself +with shooting at the animal from a somewhat greater distance. I hit two +more in the head and two--who showed a good foot of their fat bodies +above the water--in the sides. None floated on the surface, legs up, as +I had been led to expect they would do; but the men assured me that they +never come to the surface till sundown, no matter what time of day they +may have been shot. This, needless to state, I afterward found, is not +true. My ammunition being exhausted, and the sun blazing hot, I +returned to camp. I awoke the next day feeling anything but energetic; +nevertheless, I set out to see what game the land held ready for the +hunter, dissatisfied with his experiences on water. The country on the +eastern side of Lake Jipe is almost flat, but is dotted here and there +with low steep gneiss hills, stretching in an indefinite line parallel +to the lake and some three miles distant from it. I made my way toward +these hills. On the way I put up some very small antelope, which ran in +such an irregular manner that they presented no mark to my unskilled +arm. + +We reached the hills, and I climbed one and scanned the horizon with my +glasses. Far to the northwest I spied two black spots in a grassy plain. +I gave the glasses to my gun-bearer and he at once said, "Rhinoceros!" I +had never seen these beasts except in a menagerie, and the mention of +the name brought me to my feet eager to come to a closer acquaintance +with them. The wind blew toward me and the game was too far for the need +of caution, so I walked rapidly in their direction. When I got to within +250 yards, I could quite easily distinguish the appearance of my quarry. +They were lying down and apparently oblivious to my approach--perhaps +asleep. My gun-bearer (a Swahili) now began to show an anxiety to turn +back. This desire is, in many cases, the distinguishing trait of this +race. On we went, but now cautiously and silently. The grass was about +two feet high, so that by crawling on hands and knees, one could conceal +most of his body. But this position is not a pleasant one with a blazing +sun on the back, rough soil under the knees and a thirteen-pound rifle +in the hand. + +We got to within fifty yards. I looked back for the negro with my .577. +He was lying flat on his stomach fifty yards to the rear. I stood up to +beckon him, but he did not move. The rhinos did, and my attention was +recalled to them by hearing loud snorts, and, turning my head, I saw the +two beasts on their feet facing me. I had never shot an 8-bore in my +life before, so it is not to be wondered at that the shock of the recoil +placed me on my back. The animals were off before I could recover my +feet, and my second barrel was not discharged. I ran after them, but the +pace of a rhino is much faster than it looks, and I soon found pursuit +useless. I returned to the place where they had lain, and on looking +about found traces of fresh blood. My gun-bearer, as an explanation for +his behavior, said that rhinos were devils, and were not to be +approached closely. He said I must be possessed of miraculous power, or +they would have charged and slain me. The next day, fever laid me low, +and, though the attack was slight, some days elapsed before I could +muster strength to take me back to Taveta. + +After a few days' rest in camp--strengthened by good food and spurred to +fresh exertion by the barren result of my first effort--I set out again, +accompanied by more men and in a different direction. + +My faith in myself received a pleasant encouragement the day before my +departure. My head man came to me and said trade was at a standstill, +and that the natives could not be induced to bring food to sell. On +asking him why, I learned that the Taveta people had found three dead +hippos in Lake Jipe and one rhino near its shores. Meat--a rare treat to +them, even when not quite fresh--filled their minds and bodies, and they +were proof even against the most tempting beads and the brightest +cloths. I cannot say that I shared my head man's anxiety. The fact that +I had not labored altogether in vain, even though others reaped the +benefit of my efforts, filled me with a certain satisfaction. + +A day's march from Taveta brought me to the banks of an almost stagnant +brook, where I made camp. The country round about was a plain studded +with low hills, here thinly thatched with short grass, and there +shrouded with thick bush, above which every now and then rose a giant +acacia. The morning after my arrival, I set out from camp with my 8-bore +in my hands and hope in my heart. Not 200 yards from my tent, I was +startled by a snort and then by the sight of two rhinos dashing across +my path some fifty yards away. This time I did not succumb to my gun's +recoil, but had the doubtful satisfaction of seeing, from a standing +position, the animals disappear in the bush. I made after them and +found, to my delight, a clear trail of fresh blood. Eagerly pressing on, +I was somewhat suddenly checked in my career by almost stumbling over a +rhino apparently asleep on its side, with its head toward me. Bang! went +the 8-bore and down I went. I was the only creature disturbed by the +shot, as the rhino had been dead some minutes--slain by my first shot; +and my satisfaction was complete when I found the hole made by my +bullet. My men shouted and sang over this, the first fruits of my +expedition, and even at this late day I forgive myself for the feeling +of pride I then experienced. I have a table at home made of a piece of +this animal's hide, and supported in part by one of its horns. + +The next day I made an early start and worked till 4 o'clock P. M., with +no result. Then, being some eight miles from camp, I turned my face +toward home. I had not gone far, and had reached the outskirts of an +almost treeless savanna, when my gun-bearer brought me to a halt by the +word _mbogo_. This I knew meant buffalo. I adjusted my glass and +followed the direction of my man's finger. There, 500 yards away, I saw +a solitary buffalo feeding slowly along toward two low bushes, but on +the further side of them. I did not think what rifle I held (it was a +.450), but dashed forward at once. My gun-bearer was more thoughtful and +brought with him my .577. We actually ran. When within eighty or ninety +yards of the two bushes behind which the beast was now hidden. I +slackened pace and approached more cautiously. My heart was beating and +my hands trembling with the exertion of running when I reached the +nearest bush, and my nerves were not exactly steadied by meeting the +vicious gaze of a large buffalo, who stood not thirty feet on the other +side. My gun-bearer in an instant forced the .577 into my hands, and I +took aim at the shoulder of the brute and fired, without knowing exactly +what I was doing. The smoke cleared, and there, almost in his tracks, +lay my first buffalo. His ignorance of my noisy and careless approach +was apparently accounted for by his great age. His hide was almost +hairless and his horns worn blunt with many encounters. He must have +been quite deaf and almost blind, or his behavior cannot be accounted +for. The noise made by our approach, even with the favorable wind, was +sufficient to frighten any animal, or at least put it on its guard. + +My men, who were dreadfully afraid of big game of all sorts, when they +saw the buffalo lying dead, danced with joy and exultation. They kicked +the dead body and shouted curses at it. Camp was distant a good two +hours' march, and the day was drawing to a close. The hungry howl of the +hyenas warned me that my prize would soon be taken from me were it left +unguarded. So piles of firewood were made and the carcass surrounded by +a low wall of flames. I left three men in charge and set out for camp. +There was but little light and my way lay through bits of forest and +much bush. Our progress was slow, and my watch read 10:30 P. M. before I +reached my tent and bed. + +The following day I set out for a shooting ground distant two days' +march from where I had been camped. Several rivers lay in my path and +two tribes of natives. These natives inhabit thick forest and are in +terror of strangers, as they are continually harassed by their +neighbors. When they saw the smallness of my force, however, they +endeavored to turn me aside, but without success. Quiet and +determination generally win with these people. The rivers gave me more +trouble, as they were deep and swift of current, and my friends, the +natives, had removed all bridges. But none of the streams exceeded +thirty feet in width, and an hour's hard work with our axes always +provided us with a bridge. + +The second day from my former camp brought me to the outskirts of the +forest and the beginning of open country. I had hardly made camp before +three Swahili traders came to me, and after the usual greetings began to +weep in chorus. Their story was a common one. They had set out from +Mombasa with twelve others to trade for slaves and ivory with the +natives who inhabit the slopes of Kilimanjaro. Fortune had favored them, +and after four months they were on their way homeward with eighteen +slaves and five good sized tusks. The first day's journey was just over +when they were attacked by natives, three of their number slain and all +their property stolen. In the darkness they could not distinguish what +natives attacked them; but their suspicions rested on the very tribe +among whom they had spent the four months, and from whom they had +purchased the ivory and slaves. I gave them a little cloth and some +food, and a note to my people at Taveta to help them on their way. Of +course, they were slave traders, and as such ought possibly to have been +beaten from my camp. But it is undoubtedly a fact that Mahomedans look +on slave trading as a perfectly legitimate occupation; and if people are +not breaking their own laws, I cannot see that a stranger should treat +them as brigands and refuse them the least aid when in distress. I know +that my point of view in this matter has few supporters in civilization. + +The next day, after a short march, I pitched my tent on the banks of a +small stream, and then set out to prospect for game. I found nothing, +but that night my slumbers were disturbed by the splashing and grunting +of a herd of buffalo drinking. + +These sounds kept me awake, so that I was enabled to make a very early +start--setting out with four men at 4:45. The natives had assured me +that the buffalo came to drink about midnight, and then fed slowly back +to their favorite sleeping-places in the thick bush, reaching there just +about sunrise. By making such an early start I hoped to come up with my +quarry in the open places on the edge of the thick bush just before +dawn, when the light is sufficiently bright to enable one to see the +foresight of a rifle. Dew falls like rain in this part of the world, and +we had not gone fifty paces in the long grass before we were soaking +wet, and dismally cold to boot. My guide, cheered by the prospect of a +good present, led us confidently along the most intricate paths and +through the thickest bush. The moon overhead, which was in its +fifteenth day, gave excellent light. Every now and then some creature +would dash across our path, or stand snorting fearfully till we had +passed. These were probably waterbuck and bushbuck. Toward half past +five the light of the moon paled before the first glow of dawn, and we +found ourselves on the outskirts of a treeless prairie, dotted here and +there with bushes and covered with short dry grass. Across this plain +lay the bush where my guide assured me the buffalo slept during the day, +and according to him at that moment somewhere between me and this bush +wandered at least 100 buffalo. There was little wind, and what there was +came in gentle puffs against our right cheeks. I made a sharp detour to +the left, walking quickly for some twenty minutes. Then, believing +ourselves to be below the line of the buffalo, and therefore free to +advance in their direction, we did so. + +Just as the sun rose we had traversed the plain and stood at the edge of +what my men called the _nyumba ya mbogo_ (the buffalo's home). We were +too late. Fresh signs everywhere showed that my guide had spoken the +truth. Now I questioned him as to the bush; how thick it was, etc. At +that my men fidgeted uneasily and murmured "Mr. Dawnay." This young +Englishman had been killed by buffalo in the bush but four months +before. However, two of my men volunteered to follow me, so I set out on +the track of the herd. + +This bush in which the buffalo live is not more than ten feet high, is +composed of a network of branches and is covered with shiny green +leaves; it has no thorns. Here and there one will meet with a stunted +acacia, which, as if to show its spite against its more attractive +neighbors, is clothed with nothing but the sharpest thorns. The buffalo, +from constant wandering among the bush, have formed a perfect maze of +paths. These trails are wide enough under foot, but meet just over one's +shoulders, so that it is impossible to maintain an upright position. The +paths run in all directions, and therefore one cannot see far ahead. +Were it not for the fact that here and there--often 200 feet apart, +however--are small open patches, it would be almost useless to enter +such a fastness. These open places lure one on, as from their edges it +is often possible to get a good shot. Once started, we took up the path +which showed the most and freshest spoor, and, stooping low, pressed on +as swiftly and noiselessly as possible. We had not gone far before we +came upon a small opening, from the center of which rose an acacia not +more than eight inches in thickness of trunk and perhaps eighteen feet +high. It was forked at the height of a man's shoulder. I carried the +8-bore, and was glad of an opportunity to rest it in the convenient fork +before me. I had just done so, when crash! snort! bellow! came several +animals (presumably buffalo) in our direction. One gun-bearer literally +flew up the tree against which I rested my rifle; the other, regardless +of consequences, hurled his naked skin against another but smaller tree, +also thorny; both dropped their rifles. I stood sheltered behind eight +inches of acacia wood, with my rifle pointed in front of me and still +resting in the fork of the tree. The noise of the herd approached nearer +and nearer, and my nerves did not assume that steelly quality I had +imagined always resulted from a sudden danger. Fly I could not, and the +only tree climbable was already occupied; so I stood still. + +Just as I looked for the appearance of the beasts in the little opening +in which I stood, the crashing noise separated in two portions--each +passing under cover on either side of the opening. I could see nothing, +but my ears were filled with the noise. The uproar ceased, and I asked +the negro in the tree what had happened. He said, when he first climbed +the tree he could see the bushes in our front move like the waves of the +sea, and then, _Ham del illah_--praise be to God--the buffalo turned on +either side and left our little opening safe. Had they not turned, but +charged straight at us, I fancy I should have had a disagreeable moment. +As it was, I began to understand why buffalo shooting in the bush has +been always considered unsafe, and began to regret that the road back to +the open plain was not a shorter one. We reached it in safety, however, +and, after a short rest, set out up wind. + +I got a hartbeest and an mpallah before noon, and then, satisfied with +my day, returned to camp. By 4 P. M. my men had brought in all the meat, +and soon the little camp was filled with strips of fresh meat hanging on +ropes of twisted bark. The next day we exchanged the meat for flour, +beans, pumpkins and Indian corn. I remained in this camp three more days +and then returned to Taveta. Each one of these days I attempted to get a +shot at buffalo, but never managed it. On one occasion I caught a +glimpse of two of these animals in the open, but they were too wary to +allow me to approach them. + +When I reached Taveta, I found a capital camp had been built during my +absence, and that a food supply had been laid in sufficient for several +weeks. Shortly after my arrival I was startled by the reports of many +rifles, and soon was delighted to grasp the hands of two +compatriots--Dr. Abbott and Mr. Stevens. They had just returned from a +shooting journey in Masai land, and reported game plenty and natives not +troublesome. My intention was then formed to circumnavigate Mt. +Kilimanjaro, pass over the yet untried shooting grounds and then to +return to the coast. + +I left five men in camp at Taveta in charge of most of my goods, and, +taking 118 men with me, set out into Masai land. Even at this late date +(1895) the Masai are reckoned dangerous customers. Up to 1889 but five +European caravans had entered their territory, and all but the +last--that of Dr. Abbott--had reported difficulties with the natives. My +head man, a capital fellow, had had no experience with these people, and +did not look forward with pleasure to making their acquaintance; but he +received orders to prepare for a start with apparent cheerfulness. We +carried with us one ton of beans and dried bananas as food supply. This +was sufficient for a few weeks, but laid me under the necessity of doing +some successful shooting, should I carry out my plan of campaign. Just +on the borders of Masai land live the Useri people, who inhabit the +northeast slopes of Kilimanjaro. We stopped a day or two with them to +increase our food supply, and while the trading was going on I descended +to the plain in search of sport. + +I left camp at dawn and it was not till noon that I saw game. Then I +discovered three rhinos; two together lying down, and one solitary, +nearly 500 yards away from the others. The two lying down were nearest +me, but were apparently unapproachable, owing to absolute lack of cover. +The little plain they had chosen for their nap was as flat as a billiard +table and quite bare of grass. The wind blew steadily from them and +whispered me to try my luck, so I crawled cautiously toward them. When I +got to within 150 yards, one of the beasts rose and sniffed anxiously +about and then lay down again. The rhinoceros is nearly blind when in +the bright sun--at night it can see like an owl. I kept on, and when +within 100 yards rose to my knees and fired one barrel of my .577. The +rhinos leapt to their feet and charged straight at me. "Shall I load the +other barrel or trust to only one?" This thought ran through my mind, +but the speed of the animals' approach gave me no time to reply to it. +My gun-bearer was making excellent time across the plain toward a group +of trees, so I could make no use of the 8-bore. The beasts came on side +by side, increasing their speed and snorting like steam engines as they +ran. They were disagreeably close when I fired my second barrel and rose +to my feet to bolt to one side. As I rose they swerved to the left and +passed not twenty feet from me, apparently blind to my whereabouts. I +must have hit one with my second shot, for they were too close to permit +a miss. Perhaps that shot turned them. Be that as it may, I felt that I +had had a narrow escape. + +When these rhinos had quite disappeared, my faithful gun-bearer +returned, and smilingly congratulated me on what he considered my good +fortune. He then called my attention to the fact that rhinoceros number +three was still in sight, and apparently undisturbed by what had +happened to his friends. Between the beast and me, stretched an open +plain for some 350 yards, then came three or four small trees, and then +from these trees rose a semi-circular hill or rather ridge, on the crest +of which stood the rhino. I made for the trees, and, distrusting my +gun-bearer, took from him the .577 and placed it near one of them. Then, +telling him to retire to a comfortable spot, I advanced with my 8-bore +up the hill toward my game. The soil was soft as powder, so my footsteps +made no noise. Cover, with the exception of a small skeleton bush, but +fifty yards below the rhino, there was none. I reached the bush and +knelt down behind it. The rhino was standing broadside on, motionless +and apparently asleep. I rose and fired, and saw that I had aimed true, +when the animal wheeled round and round in his track. I fired again, and +he then stood still, facing me. I had one cartridge in my pocket and +slipped it in the gun. As I raised the weapon to my shoulder, down the +hill came my enemy. His pace was slow and I could see that he limped. +The impetus given him by the descent kept him going, and his speed +seemed to increase. I fired straight at him and then dropped behind the +bush. He still came on and in my direction; so I leapt to my feet, and, +losing my head, ran straight away in front of him. I should have run to +one side and then up the hill. What was my horror, when pounding away at +a good gait, not more than fifty feet in front of the snorting rhino, to +find myself hurled to the ground, having twisted my ankle. I thought all +was over, when I had the instinct to roll to one side and then scramble +to my feet. The beast passed on. When he reached the bottom of the hill +his pace slackened to a walk, and I returned to where I had left my .577 +and killed him at my leisure. I found the 8-bore bullet had shattered +his off hind leg, and that my second shot had penetrated his lungs. I +had left the few men I had brought with me on a neighboring hill when I +had first caught sight of the rhinos, and now sent for them. Not liking +to waste the meat, I sent to camp for twenty porters to carry it back. I +reached camp that night at 12:30 A. M., feeling quite worn out. + +After a day's rest we marched to Tok-i-Tok, the frontier of Masai land. +This place is at certain seasons of the year the pasture ground of one +of the worst bands of Masai. I found it nearly deserted. The Masai I met +said their brethren were all gone on a war raid, and that this was the +only reason why I was permitted to enter the country. I told them that I +had come for the purpose of sport, and hoped to kill much game in their +country. This, however, did not appear to interest them, as the Masai +never eat the flesh of game. Nor do they hunt any, with the exception of +buffalo, whose hide they use for shields. I told them I was their friend +and hoped for peace; but, on the other hand, was prepared for war should +they attack me. + +From Tok-i-Tok we marched in a leisurely manner to a place whose name +means in English "guinea fowl camp." In this case it was a misnomer, for +we were not so fortunate as to see one of these birds during our stay of +several days. At this place we were visited by some fifty Masai +warriors, who on the receipt of a small present danced and went away. +The water at guinea fowl camp consisted of a spring which rises from the +sandy soil and flows a few hundred yards, and then disappears into the +earth. This is the only drinking-place for several miles, so it is +frequented by large numbers and many varieties of game. At one time I +have seen hartbeest, wildbeest, grantii, mpallah, Thomson's oryx, +giraffes and rhinoceros. We supported the caravan on meat. I used only +the .450 Express; but my servant, George Galvin, who used the +Winchester, did better execution with his weapon than I with mine. + +Here, for the first and last time in my African experiences, we had a +drive. Our camp was pitched on a low escarpment, at the bottom of which, +and some 300 feet away, lay the water. The escarpment ran east and west, +and extended beyond the camp some 500 yards, where it ended abruptly in +a cliff forty or fifty feet high. Some of my men, who were at the end of +the escarpment gathering wood, came running into camp and said that +great numbers of game were coming toward the water. I took my servant +and we ran to the end of the escarpment, where a sight thrilling indeed +to the sportsman met our eyes. First came two or three hundred wildbeest +in a solid mass; then four or five smaller herds, numbering perhaps +forty each, of hartbeest; then two herds, one of mpallah and one of +grantii. There must have been 500 head in the lot. They were approaching +in a slow, hesitating manner, as these antelope always do approach +water, especially when going down wind. + +Our cover was perfect and the wind blowing steadily in our direction. I +decided, knowing that they were making for the water, and to reach it +must pass close under where we lay concealed, to allow a certain number +of them to pass before we opened fire. This plan worked perfectly. The +animals in front slackened pace when they came to within fifty yards of +us, and those behind pressed on and mingled with those in front. The +effect to the eye was charming. The bright tan-colored skins of the +hartbeest shone out in pleasing contrast to the dark gray wildbeest. Had +I not been so young, and filled with youth's thirst for blood, I should +have been a harmless spectator of this beautiful procession. But this +was not to be. On catching sight of the water, the animals quickened +their pace, and in a moment nearly half of the mass had passed our +hiding-place. A silent signal, and the .450 and the Winchester, fired in +quick succession, changed this peaceful scene into one of consternation +and slaughter. Startled out of their senses, the beasts at first halted +in their tracks, and then wheeling, as if at word of command, they +dashed rapidly up wind--those in the rear receiving a second volley as +they galloped by. When the dust cleared away, we saw lying on the +ground below us four animals--two hartbeest and two wildbeest. I am +afraid that many of those who escaped carried away with them proofs of +their temerity and our bad marksmanship. + +Ngiri, our next camp, is a large swamp, surrounded first by masses of +tall cane and then by a beautiful though narrow strip of forest composed +of tall acacias. It was at this place, in the thick bush which stretches +from the swamp almost to the base of Kilimanjaro, that the Hon. Guy +Dawnay, an English sportsman, had met his death by the horns of a +buffalo but four months before. My tent was pitched within twenty paces +of his grave and just under a large acacia, which serves as his +monument, upon whose bark is cut in deep characters the name of the +victim and the date of his mishap. + +Here we made a strong zariba of thorns, as we had heard we should meet a +large force of Masai in this neighborhood. I stopped ten days at Ngiri, +and, with the exception of one adventure hardly worth relating, had no +difficulty with the Masai. Undoubtedly I was very fortunate in finding +the large majority of the Masai warriors, inhabiting the country +through which I passed, absent from their homes. But at the same time I +venture to think that the ferocity of these people has been much +overrated, especially in regard to Europeans; for the force at my +disposal was not numerous enough to overawe them had they been evilly +disposed. + +One morning, after I had been some days at Ngiri, I set out with twenty +men to procure meat for the camp. The sun had not yet risen, and I was +pursuing my way close to the belt of reeds which surrounds the swamp, +when I saw in the dim light a black object standing close to the reeds. +My men said it was a hippo, but as I drew nearer I could distinguish the +outlines of a gigantic buffalo, broadside on and facing from the swamp. +When I got to within what I afterwards found by pacing it off to be 103 +paces, I raised my .577 to my shoulder, and, taking careful aim at the +brute's shoulder, fired. When the smoke cleared away there was nothing +in sight. Knowing the danger of approaching these animals when wounded, +I waited until the sun rose, and then cautiously approached the spot. +The early rays of the sun witnessed the last breathings of one of the +biggest buffaloes ever shot in Africa. Its head is now in the +Smithsonian Institute at Washington, and, according to the measurement +made by Mr. Rowland Ward, Piccadilly, London, it ranks among the first +five heads ever set up by him. + +After sending the head, skin and meat back to camp, I continued my way +along the shore of the swamp. The day had begun well and I hardly hoped +for any further sport, but I was pleasantly disappointed. + +Toward 11 o'clock I entered a tall acacia forest, and had not proceeded +far in it before my steps were arrested by the sight of three elephants, +lying down not 100 yards from me. They got our wind at once, and were up +and off before I could get a shot. I left all my men but one gun-bearer +on the outskirts of the forest and followed upon the trail of the +elephant. I had not gone fifteen minutes before I had traversed the +forest, and entered the thick and almost impenetrable bush beyond it. +And hardly had I forced my way a few paces into this bush, when a sight +met my eyes which made me stop and think. Sixty yards away, his head +towering above the surrounding bush, stood a monstrous tusker. His trunk +was curled over his back in the act of sprinkling dust over his +shoulders. His tusks gleamed white and beautiful. He lowered his head, +and I could but just see the outline of his skull and the tips of his +ears. This time my gun-bearer did not run. The sight of the ivory +stirred in him a feeling, which, in a Swahili, often conquers +fear--cupidity. I raised some dust in my hand and threw it in the air, +to see which way the wind blew. It was favorable. Then beckoning my +gun-bearer, I moved forward at a slight angle, so as to come opposite +the brute's shoulder. I had gone but a few steps when the bush opened +and I got a good sight of his head and shoulder. He was apparently +unconscious of our presence and was lazily flapping his ears against his +sides. Each time he did this, a cloud of dust arose, and a sound like +the tap of a bass drum broke the stillness. I fired my .577 at the outer +edge of his ear while it was lying for an instant against his side. A +crash of bush, then silence, and no elephant in sight. I began to think +that I had been successful, but the sharper senses of the negro enabled +him to know the contrary. His teeth chattered, and for a moment he was +motionless with terror. Then he pointed silently to his left. I stooped +and looked under the bush. Not twenty feet away was a sight which made +me share the feelings of my gun-bearer. The elephant was the picture of +rage; his forelegs stretched out in front of him, his trunk curled high +in the air, and his ears lying back along his neck. I seized my 8-bore +and took aim at his foreward knee, but before I could fire, he was at +us. I jumped to one side and gave him a two-ounce ball in the shoulder, +which apparently decided him on retreat. The bush was so thick that in a +moment he was out of sight. I followed him for some time, but saw no +more of him. His trail mingled with that of a large herd, which, after +remaining together for some time, apparently separated in several +directions. The day was blazing hot, and I was in the midst of a +pathless bush, far away from my twenty men. + +By 2 P. M., I had come up with them again and turned my face toward +camp. On the way thither, I killed two zebras, a waterbuck and a +Thomsonii. By the time the meat was cut up and packed on my men's heads +the sun had set. The moon was magnificently bright and served to light +our road. For one mile our way led across a perfectly level plain. This +plain was covered with a kind of salt as white as snow, and with the +bright moon every object was as easily distinguished as by day. The +fresh meat proved an awkward load for my men, and we frequently were +forced to stop while one or the other re-arranged the mass he carried. +They were very cheery about it, however, and kept shouting to one +another how much they would enjoy the morrow's feast. Their shouts were +answered by the mocking wails of many hyenas, who hovered on our flanks +and rear like a pursuing enemy. I shot two of these beasts, which kept +their friends busy for a while, and enabled us to pursue our way in +peace. + +This white plain reaches nearly to the shores of Ngiri Swamp on the +north, and to the east it is bounded by a wall of densely thick bush. We +had approached to within 400 yards of the point where the line of bush +joins the swamp, when I noticed a small herd of wildbeest walking slowly +toward us, coming from the edge of the swamp. A few moments later, a cry +escaped from my gun-bearer, who grasped my arm and whispered eagerly, +_simba_. This means lion. He pointed to the wall of bush, and near it, +crawling on its belly toward the wildbeest, was the form of a lion. I +knelt down and raised the night sight of my .450, and fired at the +moving form. The white soil and the bright moon actually enabled me to +distinguish the yellow color of its skin. A loud growl answered the +report of my rifle, and I could see the white salt of the plain fly as +the lion ran round and round in a circle, like a kitten after its tail. +I fired my second barrel and the lion disappeared. The wildbeest had +made off at the first shot. I tried, in the eagerness of youth, to +follow the lion in the bush; but soon common sense came to my rescue, +and warned me that in this dark growth the chances were decidedly in +favor of the lion's getting me, and so gave up the chase. Now, if I had +only waited till the great cat had got one of the wildbeest, I feel +pretty sure I should have been able to dispose of it at my leisure. When +I returned to camp, I ungratefully lost sight of the good luck I had +had, and gnashed my teeth at the thought that I had missed bringing home +a lion and an elephant. I was not destined to see a lion again on this +journey, but my annoyance at my ill fortune was often whetted by hearing +them roar. + +However, by good luck and by George's help, I succeeded in securing one +elephant. The story of how this happened shall be the last hunting +adventure recorded in this article. We had left Ngiri and were camped at +the next water, some ten miles to the west. I had been out after +giraffes and had not been unsuccessful, and therefore had reached camp +in high good humor, when George came to me and said things were going +badly in camp--that the men had decided to desert me should I try to +push further on into the country; and that both head men seemed to think +further progress was useless with the men in such temper. I was puzzled +what to do, but wasted no time about making up my mind to do something. +I went into the tent and called the two head men to me. After a little +delay, they came, greeted me solemnly and at a motion from me crouched +on their hams. There is but little use in allowing a negro to state a +grievance, particularly if you know it is an imaginary one. The mere act +of putting their fancied wrongs into words magnifies them in their own +minds, and renders them less likely to listen to reason. My knowledge of +Swahili at this time did not permit me to address them in their own +language, so I spoke to them in English, knowing that they understood at +least a few words of that tongue. I told them that I was determined to +push on; that I knew that porters were like sheep and were perfectly +under the control of the head men; consequently, should anything happen, +I would know on whom to fix the blame. I repeated this several times, +and emphasized it with dreadful threats, then motioned for them to leave +the tent. I cannot say that I passed a comfortable night. Instead of +songs and laughter, an ominous stillness reigned in the camp, and, +though my words had been brave, I knew that I was entirely at the mercy +of the men. + +Before dawn we were under way, keeping a strict watch for any signs of +mutiny. But, though the men were sullen, they showed no signs of turning +back. Our road lay over a wide plain, everywhere covered thickly with +lava, the aspect of which was arid in the extreme. + +No more green buffalo bush, no more acacias, tall and beautiful, but in +their place rose columns of dust, whirled hither and thither by the +vagrant wind. Two of my men had been over this part of the road before, +but they professed to be ignorant of the whereabouts of the next water +place. Any hesitation on my part would have been the signal for a +general retreat, so there was nothing for it but to assume a look of the +utmost indifference, and to assure them calmly that we should find +water. At noon the appearance of the country had not changed. My men, +who had incautiously neglected to fill their water bottles in the +morning, were beginning to show signs of distress. + +Suddenly my gun-bearer, pointing to the left, showed me two herds of +elephants approaching us. The larger herd, composed principally of +bulls, was nearer to us, and probably got our wind; for they at once +turned sharply to their right and increased their pace. The other herd +moved on undisturbed. I halted the caravan, told the men to sit down and +went forward to meet the elephants, with my servant and two gun-bearers. +I carried a .577, my servant carried the old 12-bore by Lang, his +cartridges crammed to the muzzle with powder. We were careful to avoid +giving the elephants our wind, so we advanced parallel to them, but in a +direction opposite to that in which they were going. As they passed us +we crouched, and they seemed unconscious of our presence. They went +about 400 yards past us, and then halted at right angles to the route +they had been pursuing. There were five elephants in this herd--four +large, and one small one, bringing up the rear. Some 60 yards on their +right flank was a small skeleton bush, and, making a slight detour, we +directed our course toward that. The leading animal was the largest, so +I decided to devote our attention to that one. I told George to fire at +the leg and I would try for the heart. We fired simultaneously, George +missing and my shot taking effect altogether too high. + +Two things resulted from the discharge of our rifles: the gun-bearers +bolted with their weapons and the elephants charged toward us in line of +battle. As far as I can calculate, an elephant at full speed moves 100 +yards in about ten seconds, so my readers can judge how much time +elapsed before the elephants were upon us. We fired again. My shot did +no execution, but George, who had remained in a kneeling position, broke +the off foreleg of the leading animal at the knee. It fell, and the +others at once stopped. We then made off, and watched from a little +distance a most interesting sight. + +The condition of the wounded elephant seemed to be known to the others, +for they crowded about her and apparently offered her assistance. She +placed her trunk on the back of one standing in front of her and raised +herself to her feet, assisted by those standing around. They actually +moved her for some distance, but soon got tired of their kindly efforts. +We fired several shots at them, which only had the effect of making two +of the band charge in our direction and then return to their stricken +comrade. Cover there was none, and with our bad marksmanship it would +have been (to say the least) brutal to blaze away at the gallant little +herd. Besides, cries of "water!" "water!" were heard coming from my +thirsty caravan. So there was nothing for it but to leave the elephant, +take the people to water, if we could find it, and then return and put +the wounded animal out of its misery. + +An hour and a half later we reached water, beautiful and clear, welling +up from the side of a small hill. This is called Masimani. On reaching +the water, all signs of discontent among my people vanished, and those +among them who were not Mahomedans, and therefore had no scruples about +eating elephant meat, raised a cheerful cry of _tembo tamu_--elephant +is sweet. I did not need a second hint, but returned, and, finding the +poor elephant deserted by its companions, put it out of its misery. It +was a cow with a fine pair of tusks. The sun was setting, and my men, +knowing that activity was the only means of saving their beloved +elephant meat from hyenas, attacked the body with fury--some with axes, +others with knives and one or two with sword bayonets. It was a terrible +sight, and I was glad to leave them at it and return to camp, well +satisfied with my day's work. + +From Masimani, for the next four days, the road had never been trodden +by even an Arab caravan. I had no idea of the whereabouts of water, nor +had my men; but, having made a success of the first day's march, the men +followed me cheerfully, believing me possessed of magic power and +certain to lead them over a well-watered path. A kind providence did +actually bring us to water each night. The country was so dry that it +was absolutely deserted by the inhabitants, the Masai, and great was the +surprise of the Kibonoto people when we reached there on the fourth day. +They thought that we had dropped from the clouds, and said there could +not have been any water over the road we had just come. These Kibonoto +people had never been visited by an European, but received us kindly. +The people of Kibonoto are the westernmost inhabitants on the slopes of +Kilimanjaro. + +From there to Taveta our road was an easy one, lying through friendly +peoples. After a brief rest at Taveta, I returned to the coast, reaching +Zanzibar a little over six months after I had set out from it. + +Perhaps a word about the climate of the part of the country through +which I passed will not be amiss. Both my servant and myself suffered +from fever, but not to any serious extent. If a sedentary life is +avoided--and this is an easy matter while on a journey--if one avoids +morning dews and evening damps, and protects his head and the back of +his neck from the sun, I do not think the climate of East Africa would +be hurtful to any ordinarily healthy person. For my part, I do not think +either my servant or myself have suffered any permanent ill effects from +our venture; and yet the ages of twenty-one and seventeen are not those +best suited for travels in the tropics. + +_W. A. Chanler._ + + + + +[Illustration: A MOUNTAIN SHEEP.] + +To the Gulf of Cortez + + +About a year ago, my brother, who is a very sagacious physician, advised +me to take the fresh liver of a mountain sheep for certain nervous +symptoms which were troublesome. None of the local druggists could fill +the prescription, and so it was decided that I should seek the materials +in person. With me went my friend J. B., the pearl of companions, and we +began the campaign by outfitting at San Diego, with a view to exploring +the resources of the sister republic in the peninsula of Lower +California. Lower California is very different from Southern California. +The latter is--well, a paradise, or something of that kind, if you +believe the inhabitants, of whom I am an humble fraction. The former is +what you may please to think. + +At San Diego we got a man, a wagon, four mules and the needed provisions +and kitchen--all hired at reasonable rates, except the provisions and +kitchen, which we bought. Then we tried to get a decent map, but were +foiled. The Mexican explorer will find the maps of that country a source +of curious interest. Many of them are large and elaborately mounted on +cloth, spreading to a great distance when unfolded. The political +divisions are marked with a tropical profusion of bright colors, which +is very fit. A similar sense of fitness and beauty leads the designer to +insert mountain ranges, rivers and towns where they best please the eye, +and I have had occasion to consult a map which showed purely ideal +rivers flowing across a region where nature had put the divide of the +highest range in the State. + +My furniture contained a hundred cartridges, a belt I always carry, +given by a friend, with a bear's head on the buckle (a belt which has +held, before I got it, more fatal bullets than any other west of the +Rockies), and my usual rifle. J. B. prepared himself in a similar way, +except the belt. + +Starting south from San Diego, we crossed the line at Tia Juana, and +spent an unhappy day waiting on the custom house officials. They, +however, did their duty in a courteous manner, and we, with a bundle of +stamped papers, went on. The only duties we paid were those levied on +our provisions. The team and wagon were entered free under a +prospector's license for thirty days, and an obliging stableman signed +the necessary bond. + +The main difficulty in traveling in Lower California lies in the fact +that you can get no feed for your animals. From Tia Juana east to +Tecate, where you find half a dozen hovels, there is hardly a house and +not a spear of grass for thirty miles. At Tecate there is a little +nibbling. Thence south for twenty-five miles we went to the Agua +Hechicera, or witching water; thence east twenty-five miles more to +Juarez, always without grass; thence south to the ranch house of the +Hansen ranch, at El Rayo, twenty-five miles more. There, at last, was a +little grass, but after passing that point we camped at Agua Blanca, and +were again without grass for thirty miles to the Trinidad Valley, which +once had a little grass, now eaten clean. Fortunately we were able to +buy hay at Tia Juana, and took some grain. Fortunately, also, we found +some corn for sale at Juarez. So, with constant graining, a little hay +and a supply of grass, either absent or contemptible, we managed to +pull the stock through. + +Besides our four hired mules there was another, belonging to our man, +Oscar, which we towed behind to pack later. The animal was small in +size, but pulled back from 200 pounds to a ton at every step. Its sex +was female, but its name was Lazarus, for the overwhelming necessity of +naming animals of the ass tribe either Lazarus or Balaam tramples on all +distinctions of mere sex. We started, prepared for a possible, though +improbable, season of rain; but we did not count on extreme cold, yet +the first night out the water in our bucket froze, and almost every +night it froze from a mere skin to several inches thick. To give an idea +of the country, I will transcribe from a brief diary a few descriptions. +Starting from Tia Juana, we drove or packed for nearly 200 miles in a +southeasterly direction, until we finally sighted the Gulf and the +mountains of Sonora in the distance. At first our road lay through low +mountains, in valleys abounding in cholla cactus. From Tecate southward, +the country was rolling and clotted with brushwood, until you reach +Juarez. Juarez is an abandoned, or almost abandoned, placer camp. Here, +amid the countless pits of the miners, the pinons begin, and then, after +a short distance, the pine barrens stretch for forty miles. Beyond again +you pass into hills of low brush, and plains covered with sage and +buckweed, until finally you cross a divide into the broad basin of the +Trinidad Valley. This is a depression some twenty miles long and perhaps +five miles wide on the average, with a hot spring and a house at the +southwestern end, walled on the southeast by the grim frowning rampart +of the San Pedro Martir range, and on the other sides by mountains of +lesser height, but equal desolation. + +We had intended at first to strike for the Cocopah range, near the mouth +of the Colorado River, and there do our hunting. Several reasons induced +us to change our plan and make for the Hansen ranch, where deer were +said to be plenty and sheep not distant; so we turned from Tecate +southward, made one dry camp and one camp near Juarez, and on the fifth +day of our journeying reached a long meadow, called the Bajio Largo, on +the Hansen ranch. We turned from the road and followed the narrow +park-like opening for four miles, camping in high pines, with water +near, and enough remnants of grass to amuse the animals. This region of +pine barrens occurs at quite an elevation, and the nights were cold. The +granite core of the country crops out all along in low broken hills, the +intervening mesas consisting of granite sand and gravel, and bearing +beside the pines a good deal of brush. Thickets of manzanita twisted +their blood-colored trunks over the ground, and the tawny stems of the +red-shank covered the country for miles. The red-shank is a lovely +shrub, growing about six or eight feet high, with broom-like foliage of +a yellowish green, possessing great fragrance. If you simply smell the +uncrushed shoots, they give a faint perfume, somewhat suggestive of +violets; and if you crush the leaves you get a more pungent odor, sweet +and a little smoky. Also, the gnarled roots of the red-shank make an +excellent cooking fire, if you can wait a few hours to have them burn to +coals. All things considered, the pine barren country is very +attractive, and if there were grass, water and game, it would be a fine +place for a hunter. + +From our camp at Bajio Largo, J. B. and I went hunting for deer, which +were said to be plentiful. We hunted from early morning till noon, +seeing only one little fellow, about the size of a jack rabbit, scuttle +off in the brush. Then we decided to go home. This, however, turned out +to be a large business. The lofty trees prevented our getting any +extended view, and the stony gulches resembled each other to an annoying +degree. At last even the water seemed to flow the wrong way. So we gave +up the attempt to identify landmarks, and, following our sense of +direction and taking our course from the sun, we finally came again to +the long meadow, and, traveling down that, we came to camp. Here we +violated all rules by shooting at a mark--our excuse was that we had +decided to leave the vicinity without further hunting; and, at all +events, we spoiled a sardine box, to Oscar's great admiration. + +In order to get a fair day's journey out of a fair day, we had to rise +at 4 or 5 o'clock. Oscar once or twice borrowed my watch to wake by, but +the result was only that I had to borrow J. B.'s watch to wake Oscar by; +so I afterwards retained the timepiece, and got up early enough to start +Oscar well on his duties. + +The question of fresh meat had now become important. We left Bajio Largo +and drove to Hansen's Laguna, a shallow pond over a mile long, much +haunted by ducks. Here we made a bad mistake, driving six or eight miles +into the mountains, only to reach nowhere and be forced to retrace our +steps. Night, however, found us at El Rayo, the Hansen ranch house, and, +as it turned out, the real base of our hunting campaign. The Hansen +ranch is an extensive tract, named after an old Swede, who brought a few +cattle into the country years ago. The cattle multiplied exceedingly, to +the number, indeed, of several thousand, and can be seen at long range +by the passer-by. They are very wild and gaunt at present, and will +prance off among the rocks at a surprising rate before a man can get +within 200 yards of them. Ex-Governor Ryerson now owns these cattle, and +his major-domo, Don Manuel Murillo, a fine gray-haired veteran, learning +that I had known the Governor, gave me much friendly advice, and sent +his son to guide us well on the road to the Trinidad Valley and the +sheep land. He also provided us with potatoes and fresh meat, so that we +lived fatly thenceforth. + +Our track lay past an abandoned saw-mill, built by the International +Company. Thence we were to go to Agua Blanca, the last water to be had +on the road; for the next thirty miles are dry. The saw-mill was built +to supply timber to the mining town of Alamo, some twenty-five miles +south. The camp is now in an expiring state and needs no timber, but is +said to shelter some rough and violent men. The road from the mill was +deep in sand, and our pace was slow. The darkness was coming cold and +fast when we finally drove on to the water and halted to camp. + +Two men were there before us, with a saddle-horse each, and no other +apparent equipment. When we arrived, the men were watering their +animals, and at once turned their backs, so as not to be recognized. +Then they retired to the brush. We supped and staked out the mules, and +then sent Oscar to look up our neighbors. Oscar went and shouted, but +got no answer, and could find no men. We thought that our mules were in +some danger, and J. B., who is a yachtsman, proposed to keep anchor +watch. So Oscar remained awake till midnight, when he awoke me and +retired freezing, saying that he had seen the enemy prowling around. I +took my gun and visited the mules in rotation till 2:30. Then J. B. +awoke, chattering with cold, but determined, and kept faithful guard +until 5, when we began our day with a water-bucket frozen solid. + +All our property remained safe, and a distant fire twinkling in the +brush showed that our neighbors were still there. After breakfast Oscar +again sought the hostile camp, and finally found a scared and innocent +Frenchman, who cried out, on recognizing his visitor: + +"Holy Mary! I took you for American robbers from the line, and I have +lain awake all night, watching my horses." + +From Agua Blanca we drove across the Santa Catarina ranch, for the most +part plain and mesa, covered with greasewood and buckbrush. This latter +shrub looks much like sage, except that its leaves are of a yellow-green +instead of a blue-green. It is said to furnish the chief nutrition for +stock on several great ranches. Certainly there was no visible grass, +but buckbrush can hardly be fattening. Toward night, we crossed the pass +into the Trinidad Valley and drove down a grade not steep only, but +sidelong, where the wagons both went tobogganing down and slid rapidly +toward the gulch. The mules held well, however, and before dark we were +camped near the hot spring at the house of Alvarez. + +Our friend, Don Manuel Murillo, had recommended us both to Alvarez and +to his sister, Senora Paula, but both of these were absent. Don Manuel +had also urged us to get the Indian Anastasio for a guide. + +"For heaven's sake," he said, "don't venture without a guide. You may +perish from thirst, as others have done before you." + +We tried at first to hire burros and let our mules rest, but the Indian +who owned the burros stated that his terms were "one burro, one day, one +dollar"--an impudent attempt at robbery, which we resented. + +We interviewed Anastasio, however, who said he would start at any +moment; and, leaving Oscar to guard the wagon, we packed two mules, +saddled two more for J. B. and myself, and, giving Anastasio the +tow-rope of a pack-mule, we started after him. Anastasio was the most +interesting figure of the trip, and I must be pardoned if I go into some +detail about him. He spoke some Spanish and understood a good deal. When +he did not understand, he never stated that fact, but either assumed a +stony look or answered at cross-purposes; so that we did not get to know +a great deal about each other for some time. + +He had, too, a lingering remnant of the distrust of horses and mules +that his ancestors must have felt in Spanish times, and when his +pack-mule got a stone in her hoof, he observed it with anxiety from a +distance, but could not summon resolution to meddle with so serious a +matter. + +Moreover his measure of distance was primitive. I would ask, for +instance, how many miles it was to our next stop. He might say three +miles for an all-day journey of six times that length, or he might tell +you that we were nine miles from a spot which we reached in half an +hour. + +I then substituted leagues for miles, thinking that the Mexican usage +would be more familiar to him; but at last Anastasio said, rather +impatiently, that all this business of leagues and miles was rather +confusing and outside of his experience. We would reach the next water +shortly before sunset, and that was all the calculation he was +accustomed to, and quite close enough. + +Aside from his knowledge of Spanish, Anastasio was indeed a fine +representative of the best of the stone age, and as we journeyed on, one +got an excellent idea of the life of the savage here in early times. +About 3 o'clock in the afternoon, we reached the only water spot on the +trail. Anastasio parted some withered reeds, and, looking earnestly, +said, "Dry." A short distance further up, he repeated the word, and yet +again, till, at his fourth attempt, he said, "Very little," and we +camped. By scraping away the mud and grass, we got a small gravelly +hole, and dipped out the slowly seeping water, a cup at a time. We thus +managed to give each of the mules a little in a pan, and to get a +canteen full for cooking. + +Then I noticed Anastasio gathering wood, which I thought at first was +for general use, but I found it was a private pile, to be used, so to +speak, for bedding. Anastasio did not take the ax to secure his wood, +but smashed off mesquite branches with a rock or pulled out some old +root. He quite despised pinon and juniper logs, saying they gave no +heat--meaning, probably, that they burned out too soon. + +We turned in soon after supper, and the night was cold. Anastasio said +he feared snow. The reason for his fear was soon evident. My bed was +about twenty feet from Anastasio's, and during the night I would turn +and watch him. He carried but one small blanket of about the texture of +a gunny sack. He lighted a long smouldering fire, stripped himself +naked, except a breech-clout, and, with his back to the coals and his +front protected by his gauzy blanket, he slept until the cold roused +him, when he put on more wood and slept again. I offered him four pairs +of warm horse blankets to sleep in, but that was not the thing. He said +that he needed to have the fire strike him in the small of the back, and +that he slept in that way always. So throughout the night, in my wakeful +moments, I saw the light reflected from his mahogany person. Evidently +snow or cold rain would be disastrous to people who need a fire all +night; for, with no covering against the cold and with fires +extinguished by storm, they might easily freeze to death. + +We were packed and marching at 7:30 next morning, and to those who know +the inwardness of packing in winter, that statement means a good deal. +It means, for instance, that J. B. got up, at my summons, long before +dawn and cooked a splendid breakfast, and that the mules were caught and +grained and saddled, and the packs made and lashed, by the earliest +sun. + +J. B. was a wonder. He seemed to enjoy giving his fellow mortals the +best breakfasts and suppers--for we never had any midday meals--that our +supplies could furnish. Always rising at the first call, in the dark, +sometimes with an accompaniment of snow or rain, he managed the +commissariat to perfection. + +I in my humble way packed and saddled and did other necessary work, and +Anastasio regarded us with benevolent curiosity, though always ready to +get wood or water or mules when we asked him to do so. + +We were now approaching the true desert. This term is not restricted to +the broad level sand wastes along the Gulf, but includes the arid and +waterless mountains adjacent, and this must be borne in mind when the +Mexicans tell you that sheep are to be found in the desert. + +We passed the last of the brushy hills, and, crossing a small divide, +came over slopes of volcanic cinders to a little water spot with dwarf +willows and grass. This was our hunting camp. The country through which +our route had lain heretofore was altogether granitic, though one could +see hills apparently of stratified material in the distance. Toward the +desert, we met beds of conglomerate and trachyte, and mountains covered +with slide-rock, ringing flint-like clinkers from some great volcanic +furnace. But doubtless some accurate and industrious German has +described all this, in a work on the geology of the peninsula, and to +that valuable treatise I will refer you for further facts. + +The vegetation had somewhat changed. There were more cactuses, +particularly the fleshy kind called venaga, though I noticed with +surprise the absence of the great fruit-bearing cactuses, the saguarro +and pitaya, all along our route. The Spanish daggers were very numerous, +as were also mescal plants, both of these forming veritable thickets in +places. + +The venaga cactus is similar to the bisnaga, found in other parts of +Mexico, except in the disposition and curvature of the thorns. They are +stumpy plants, growing from a foot to three feet or so in height, and a +foot or more in diameter, like a thickset post. Those of us who +delighted in Mayne Reid's "Boy Hunters" will remember how the +adventurous young men saved themselves from dying of thirst by laying +open these succulent cactuses with their long hunting knives and +drinking the abundant juices. I have often and faithfully tried to +perform the same feat, out of reverence for my heroes, but failed to +find anything juicier than, say, a raw turnip--by no means satisfying as +a drink. The venagas are found on the mountains where sheep haunt, with +their hard prickly rinds broken and the interior hollowed out, and +Anastasio said that the sheep do this by knocking holes in the cactus +with their horns and then eating the inside. + +This cactus country makes the third variety of wilderness encountered in +the peninsula. There are four: first, and best, the pine barrens; +second, the brushy hills and plains, covered with sage, greasewood and +buckweed; third, this spike-bearing volcanic region; and fourth, the +appalling desolation of the acknowledged desert. + +The moment we had unloaded and watered our animals, Anastasio and I set +out to look for deer. Anastasio wore the spotted and tattered remnant of +a frock-coat, once green, given him by an Englishman, of whom I shall +say more later. He had guarachis, or sandals, on his feet, bare legs, a +breech-clout, and on his head a reddish bandanna handkerchief in the +last stages of decay; and as he peered over some rock, glaring long and +earnestly in search of game, he reminded one of those lean and wolfish +Apaches that Remington draws in a way so dramatic and so full of grim +significance. + +Anastasio was fifty-one years old and had no upper incisors, but the way +he flung his gaunt leathern shanks over those mountains of volcanic +clinkers, armed with the poisoned bayonets of myriads of mescal, cactus +and Spanish dagger, was astonishing. + +I told him that I was not racing and that he would scare the game. In +fact, he did start one little fellow, but he said he always saw the game +first, and for this day I was quite powerless to hold him in; so I +decided to return to camp before dark. This disgusted Anastasio greatly. +"In this way we shall never kill," said he. "We are going to suffer from +hunger." I assured him that we had plentiful supplies, but he had come +for meat. Unbounded meat had been the chief incentive for his trip, and +hungry he was determined to be. + +The next day J. B. set out early with the red man. I arranged camp, and +two or three hours later took what I supposed was a different direction, +but soon encountered the pair returning. J. B. had a painful knee, and +Anastasio had started his racing tactics and kept them up until J. B. +was quite lame. + +The Indian reported that he had seen sheep. J. B. had used the glass +without finding them, and then Anastasio had captured it and looked +through the wrong end, nodding and saying he could count five, very big. +This, I am sorry to say, was false and affected on Anastasio's part, and +J. B. was skeptical about the sheep altogether; but I knew how hard it +was to find distant game, when you don't know exactly how it should +appear. To reach the supposed sheep, the mountain must be climbed and +the crest turned, for the wind permitted no other course. J. B. did not +feel up to the task, and I directed him to camp. Anastasio and I climbed +for about four hours, and reached a position whence his sheep would be +visible. He was now discontented because J. B. had not lent him his gun. +No request had been made for the gun, to be sure, but I confess that a +request would have met with my earnest opposition in any event. +Evidently Anastasio's expectations of fresh meat were now so dim as to +cast serious shadows on my skill as a hunter; but, resigning himself to +the inevitable, he crawled to the summit of the ridge for a view. He +stared long and said he could make out one ewe lying down under a +juniper. I tried the glass. He was right. His unaided sight seemed about +equal in definition to my field-glass. On this occasion he declined to +use the glass, even with some appearance of disgust. We could get no +nearer unseen, and, though the distance was very great, I decided to +risk a shot. + +I fired, in fact, two or three shots at the ewe, alarming her greatly, +when from beneath a cliff which lay below us a band streamed out. Two +big rams started off to the right. Anastasio and I ran down a bit, and I +tried a long shot at the leading ram. The distance was great, and the +run had pumped me a little. I missed. The second ram was still larger. +He stopped a moment at 150 yards and I dropped him. Anastasio grunted +satisfaction. I swung to the left, where the rest of the band was +journeying, sighted at the shoulder of a young ram and fired. The ball +passed through my intended victim, dropping him, and entered the eye +of a yearling ram who stood behind, thus killing two rams at one shot--a +most unusual accident. + +[Illustration: ROCKY MOUNTAIN AND POLO'S SHEEP, DRAWN TO SAME SCALE.] + +The rest of the band were now quite distant, and, though I fired several +shots, at Anastasio's desire--he said he wanted a fat ewe--none took +effect. + +I cleaned the sheep and skinned out the big head. Anastasio took one +small ram entire on his back, supporting it by a rope passed over the +top of his head, and started down with it, while I followed after with +the big horns. It was 1 o'clock. The head might have weighed thirty-five +pounds fresh. It grew to weigh 1,500 pounds before dark. Stumbling down +through the slide-rock, with legs full of venomous prickers, I passed +below camp without noticing it, and was well on the other side, when I +thought I had gone about far enough, and shouted. J. B.'s voice answered +across a small hill, and I discovered that he had never reached camp at +all, but had found a water spot, and wisely decided not to leave it +without good reason. + +I scouted a bit to the west, but found unfamiliar country, and, as the +sun had set, we were seemingly about to stay by that water all night, +when I turned around and saw a pale column of smoke rising above the +crest of the ridge against the evening sky. + +At once we marched around the ridge, and, as we rose over the divide, we +saw the whole hillside flaming with signal fires. Our dear old Anastasio +had become alarmed and set fire to fifteen or twenty dead mescals in +different places to guide us home. God bless a good Indian! + +With vast content we prepared and ate a luxurious supper. Anastasio, +however, fearing that he might be hungry in the night, impaled all the +ribs of one side of the ram on a pole and planted it in a slanting +position over the fire. Thus he was enabled to put in his time during +his wakeful moments, and face the prospect of a remote breakfast without +discouragement. + +The next day, I spent the morning in washing, resting, and cutting +spikes out of my legs. Anastasio packed in the second small ram, and ate +ribs and slept. Then, in the afternoon, we got the rest of the big +fellow down. Anastasio, to make his load lighter, smashed off the shanks +with a stone, although he carried a knife in his belt--a striking trick +of heredity. + +And then we talked. "The Trinidad Valley is not my country," said +Anastasio; "this is my country. Yonder, under that red rock on the +mountain side, about five miles away, there is a spring in the gulch on +the edge of the desert. I was born there, and lived there twenty years +with my father's family. Here where your camp is"--about twenty feet +square of slide-rock level enough to stand on--"we sowed crops. We +scraped a hole between the stones with our hands, put in squash seeds, +watered them by carrying water from the spring in our hands and raised +several hills." + +So he went on, not in so connected a way, but showing, bit by bit, his +manner of life. His tribe, which he called the Kil-ee-ou, must have been +very restricted in numbers at best. His territory was a few leagues of +desert, or almost desert, mountains, every yard of which he knew by +heart, while just over the ridge dwelt the Cocopahs, his mortal enemies. +Sometimes a score of men armed with bows would start a tribal hunt for +deer, though the sheep were beyond their means of attack. Sometimes they +journeyed a few leagues to the Gulf to eat mussels. We could see the +great blue sheet and the leagues of salt incrustations glimmering white +on the hither side, and at one spot on the horizon the blue peak of some +Sonora mountain rose out of the seeming ocean. + +But a few deer and mussels and a half dozen hills of squashes could not +fill the abyss of the Indian appetite. The stand-by was roasted mescal. +These plants grow in great numbers in the country adjoining the desert, +and at every season there are some just right for roasting. The Indians +selected these and cooked them for two or three days in a hole in the +ground, by a process called tatema, similar in principle to a clam-bake. +This roasting converts the starchy leaves and heart into a sugary mass, +so that the resulting food is something like a sweet fibrous beet. The +Indian's life really lay in gathering and roasting mescal. And when a +storm prevented the necessary fires, the tribe passed days, often many +days, without food. + +So much for Anastasio's early life. A year ago, he told us, he went +hunting with two Americans. One of them came from under the earth, where +there were six months of night, and had passed two seas and been a +month on the train. We supposed, from this, that Anastasio had served as +guide to an Englishman, whose home he described at the Antipodes. The +six months of night were, perhaps, represented by the London fogs, and, +if he passed a month on the train, he must have come by the Southern +Pacific. The Englishman had presented Anastasio with the very +undesirable gaberdine I have before described. Anastasio said that the +Englishman shot quail in the head every time with his rifle, but on +meeting a band of eleven sheep he fired nine shots without hitting. +Anastasio said he trembled, but I incline to think that the Indian had +run him out of breath. Finally the Englishman secured two ewes and a +lamb, after three weeks of hunting. + +Look at my fortune! A single day on the mountain, and three rams to show +for it; one with horns that are an abiding splendor--sixteen inches +around the base and forty-two inches on the outer sweep. + +I thought at first that the horns made more than one complete spiral, +but, on leveling them carefully, I saw that the entire curve would not +be complete without the points, which were smashed off. In this +connection it is only fair to consider that I carried my lucky bear's +head belt, and invariably sacrificed to the Sun, as several ragged +garments, hung on spikes and branches, may still testify. + +The weather threatened storm. J. B.'s leg would not permit him to hunt. +Anastasio was full of meat, eating roasted ribs night and day, beside +his regular meals, and we decided to retreat. + +I noticed that the sheep hides had little of the under wool that the +Northern sheep have in December, nor were the animals fat, though the +flesh was sweet and tender, and the livers had their desired medicinal +effect. + +Anastasio said it was customary to hunt in summer, when the sheep were +fat, and were compelled to resort to the water holes. Aside from the +meanness of taking advantage of the animals' necessities, the summer is +a bad season for hunting, both because the flesh is rank and spoils +quickly, and the heat and insects are intolerable. + +We packed our mules in a gentle rain, and Anastasio made a great bundle +of rejected meat for his own use. To get rope, he slightly roasted the +leaves of the Spanish dagger, tore the hot spikes in shreds with his +tough fingers and knotted the fragments into a strong, pliable cord. + +In two days we were again in the Trinidad Valley, and in two days +more--one of them passed in facing a cold, driving storm, of great +violence--we had reached our old friend, Don Manuel Murillo, at El Rayo. +Here we lay over a day to rest the animals, and Don Manuel again played +the part of a good angel in letting us have some hay. + +I tried a shot at a duck on a little pond. The shot was a costly +success. The duck died, but I had to wade for his remains through many +yards of frozen mud and dirty water. The duck, though lean, was tender. +My last hunt was for deer at El Rayo, with a boy of Don Manuel's for +guide. Toward noon I saw two deer and shot them. I do not at present +know just how to class them. The tail is that of the ordinary mule-deer, +or blacktail, of Colorado and Montana, but there is no white patch on +the rump. + +The most of the deer in Lower, as well as in Southern, California have +little white on their rumps, as in these specimens, but the upper +surface of the tail is generally dark. The majority of the animals also +are smaller than the typical mule-deer of our Northern States, but +whether the differences between the two are great enough and constant +enough to form a defined variety, some more competent naturalist must +decide. Pending authoritative decision, I will submit, as a working +theory of a purely amateur kind, this suggestion: that the Mexicans are +right in saying that the northern zone of their country contains two +varieties of deer--one a large animal, called "buro," identical with our +Northern mule-deer; the other called "venado," a mule-deer too, but only +a cousin of the "buro," much smaller, and with the white parts of the +mask, throat, rump and tail either absent or much diminished in extent. + +Our journey home was accomplished in the worst weather. Snow, cold rain, +gales of surprising fury, made life a struggle; but we jumped at every +chance for progress, and finally crossed the line twenty-five days after +we had left it--tired, ragged, dirty, but with our mules alive and our +hearts contented. + +Our experience of the peninsula indicated that there were few +inhabitants of any kind, brute or human. We saw hardly a dozen rabbits +on the trip. There were some quail and many ducks, but the latter were +visitors only. Deer were very scarce, and there were but a few half-wild +cattle visible. + +As for human beings, there was not an inhabited house on our road from +Alvarez Place, in the Trinidad Valley, to El Rayo, a distance of +fifty-five miles; nor from El Rayo to Juarez, twenty-five miles more. +Indeed, except for the few hovels at Tecate, the houses for the rest of +the way were hardly more numerous. And yet we had a strong impression +that the country had nearly all the population it could support. Given a +moderately dry year, and the part of Lower California which we visited +can be thought fit only for bogus land companies and goose-egg mines; +or, yes, it might be an ideal spot for a health resort or a penal +colony. + +_George H. Gould._ + + + + +A Canadian Moose Hunt + + +In October, 1893, I made an extended trip with my brother into the +country around the head waters of the Ottawa. Our original plan, to push +northward toward the "Height of Land" after caribou, was frustrated by +high winds, which made travel on the large lakes slow and dangerous. The +crossing of a ten-mile lake, which could be accomplished in a morning if +calm, would consume several days with a high wind blowing, necessitating +a tedious coasting on the windward shore. After much delay from this +cause and from heavy rains, which made hunting difficult in the extreme, +we at length abandoned the hope of caribou on this trip, and turned +southward from Birch Lake into Lake Kwingwishe--the Indian name for meat +bird. This was about the northern limit of moose, although a few are +found beyond it. + +Our repeated failures to see this great deer would not form interesting +reading, although, if recorded, they would, no doubt, bring to the +mind of many a moose hunter memories of times when the hunt was hard and +the result--a blank. It is my purpose in this article to merely sketch +one or two instances of this sort, which, in contrast to days of +unrewarded watching, were red-lettered with excitement. I only give the +episodes because too often we relate our victories alone, and missed +shots and barren tramps are consigned to ill-merited oblivion, however +real they were. + +[Illustration: A MOOSE OF THE UPPER OTTAWA.] + +After hunting the country around Lake Kwingwishe, we at length camped on +a small pond near the east shore. Here we watched and called every night +and morning; then we visited neighboring swamps and ponds, carrying a +canoe through the forest by compass. It was always the same--wet and +hungry, tired out with tramping through tamarack swamps, we would call +half the night, sometimes startled with false alarms from hoot owl or +loon, and then lie down in a rain-soaked tent without a fire, for smoke +always scares a moose. The first streaks of dawn came, and again we were +up and anxiously watching the shore for the appearance of the monster we +were after. There were his tracks a few hours old but we could never +catch him making them. It was too early in the season to trail them +down, as the bulls were traveling continuously in impenetrable swamps, +and our best chance was to run across them on the waterways. + +One morning, on a pond we had named "Little Trout Pond," because it +looked as though it should have trout in it, but did not; we awoke, +after some specially exhausting and disappointing "back pond" +expeditions, and found Chabot, one of our two Indian guides, gone. Late +in the afternoon he returned. He had been seeing the country, and had +found a swamp about three miles off full of fresh tracks, "so big +moose," and he described tracks such as must have belonged to the Irish +elk. Soon after sunrise on the following day we were there. Cold lunch, +no dinner and lots of beautiful fresh tracks, one the largest I ever +saw. + +We watched motionless all day, saw the sun cross the zenith and sink out +of sight, saw the twilight fade away and the moon come up. About +midnight we went back to camp, through the woods. Night travel in a +forest that you can scarcely get through in the daytime is beyond +description. + +"So good swamp," said Chabot sadly that night as he crawled into his +tent. + +The next day we pitched a rough camp on a hogback between two barren +plains, about five miles from our main camp. It rained hard as soon as +we got the tent up, and we watched a runway at the foot of the hill +until dark and then turned in. + +The next morning it rained so heavily that we lay in our tent, four of +us, until about 11 A. M., when it slacked up a little. My diary says, +"No fire and little breakfast." Before this "little breakfast" was +finished we heard a moose call close by. Seizing our rifles, we started +with Chabot to stalk him. The brevity of a diary is sometimes eloquent. +Mine says, "Walked from 12 M. to 4.30 P. M. through the bush. Didn't +hear that moose again." + +The latter hour found us back in camp to get breakfast, when our other +guide, Jocko, who had gone to the main camp for food, came back in great +excitement, having found some fresh signs close at hand. Breakfast was +dropped and again we started. We got back just after dark from that trip +and ate--for the first time that day--some cold partridge and pork. + +This was a fair sample of our hunting day, but did not equal the +following one. It rained all that night, and the tent, not having been +properly stretched, leaked. We were awakened by the crackling of a fire +the guides had made. It was direct disobedience of orders, and contrary +to the most elementary rules of moose hunting; but, cold and faint for +want of food, we yielded to the innate perversity of the Indian. We made +a wild-eyed, starved group, warming our fingers around the little blaze +as it snapped up through the still, wet morning air. The teapot was just +beginning to boil, the pork was just sizzling, when we sprang to our +feet. A crash of antlers, as though two bulls were fighting, sounded not +a hundred yards away. The noise was perfectly clear, having a metallic +ring to it, and was caused by moose horns striking a hard substance. + +Again. Without a word, we seized our rifles, and left our breakfast and +fire, and I never saw that spot afterward. Again came the sound, still +distinct, but further off, this time like a birch canoe dragged through +alders. The animal had been on the runway which crossed at the foot of +the hill we were camped on when he scented the fresh-lit fire. Well, to +make a long story short, we followed that trail three weary hours of +running and creeping through frightful swamps and thickets, hearing +every few minutes the sound just ahead of us, but with never a sight of +the game. His huge tracks, which we crossed now and again, showed he was +not even trotting. Nearly exhausted, we kept following the sound +directly, and so cutting across and gaining on him. Once he seemed just +ahead, and we expected to see him each second; but we had to pay for the +luxury of that fire, as for other good things in life, so we never saw a +hair of him. When, at last, completely used up, we burst out on a lake +and saw the muddy tracks and the water still "riled up" where he had +crossed, Jocko swore he heard him crash up the opposite bank; but we +were at the end of our strength and could go no further. A man must eat +sometimes, even on a moose hunt. + +Now comes the really tragical part of this episode; our canoe was not +twenty feet from where this perverse animal had entered the water, and +we were on the little pond where our permanent camp stood. Still we felt +encouraged, for, as Chabot said that night, "Hear him now, see him +pretty soon." But not for many days. + +One more sample to encourage would-be moose hunters, and then we will +kill a moose just to show how easy it is. Two nights after the above +adventure we changed our camp and the weather at the same time. It was +clear now, but it grew very cold, and made night work in the canoe a +horror. + +It was my brother's turn to call, and I was just dropping off to sleep +in my tent, within a few feet of the lake shore, when from the other +side of the water, about a quarter of a mile distant, a bull moose +called. On the cold, still air it rang out like a trumpet--a long call, +very different from the call made by Indian hunters. Jocko, who was with +me in camp, was frantic with excitement, especially as my brother, who +must have heard it, did not answer. Again the call sounded. The bull +must be on the shore. I thought he might swim over. Then came the +answering call, close at hand, of a cow. Jocko laughed and whispered, +"Chabot call him." Then there was silence for a few minutes, followed by +a final bellow, evidently further off. The mock cow bawled and screamed +and bleated frantically, but no sound came back. My brother and his man +kept it up until late that night, and then came to the camp almost +frozen. That incident ruined my faith in calling, for every condition of +wind and weather was perfect, and Chabot's calling apparently most +enticing. + +After this and similar episodes, we left the Kwingwishe country, after +hunting it carefully as far north as Sassanega Lake. We passed Sair's +Lake and the Bois Franc, and finally reached the Little Beauchene. Near +the last lake my brother killed a young bull moose, whose meat was the +first fresh food, except partridge, we had had for over three weeks. It +was delicious, and we felt the change of diet at once in increased +strength and energy. For continuous use moose meat is much superior to +other venison, as it is of a rich flavor which does not readily pall on +the taste. The myth about moose muffle being such a hunters' delicacy +has never allured me to actually eat it, but I suppose a starving man +might, after consuming his boots, manage to swallow it. + +There were many fresh signs in the neighborhood of the Little Beauchene +Lake, but some lumbermen had arrived a few days before us and had +scared the game away. This starting the quarry is the real difficulty in +moose hunting; for, when once disturbed, the bull leaves with all his +kith and kin, so the only chance in these regions is to find him +immediately on arrival in a new district and before he comes across your +tracks. + +Still working slowly southward, we hunted more back ponds, until at last +my turn came on the twenty-seventh hunting day. Let no man say that +moose hunting is a picnic. + +We had camped on a little strip of land, between a pond and a long +narrow swamp, about 4 o'clock on a beautiful afternoon. Leaving my +brother and Jocko to eat dinner in comfort, I started to the head of the +swamp. The water was so low that we could barely force the light canoe +through the lily-pads. Old moose signs were plenty. A family of moose +had evidently been there all summer, but until we reached the upper end +we saw no fresh tracks. The sluggish stream we were on drained a shallow +lake, and, after a few hard plunges, our canoe floated clear of the mud +into the silent waters of a circular pond. It was a basin about a half +mile across, surrounded by low hardwood hills, and so shallow that a +moose, I think, could have waded across the deepest part. The shores +were marked up with some very large tracks, but fresh signs had long +since ceased to excite in me anything more than a passing interest. We +made the tour of the lake slowly and quietly. Nothing was in sight +except four wood ducks. This was "last chance" pond, and if I got no +moose here, we must return to Mattawa for another outfit, which I had +about made up my mind to do. The night settled still and cold--oh, so +cold!--and the stars came out with wonderful distinctness. + +What was that? + +Chabot had started up, listened, and a second later was driving the +birch across the lake noiselessly. As we neared the shore, it was inky +black--a mammoth would not have been visible ten yards away. Twigs +breaking at long intervals told that something was on shore just in +cover of the bushes. We waited some time and at last I whispered to +Chabot, "Muckwa?" (bear). + +"Not muckwa--cow," answered the guide. + +As he spoke, the short call of a bull floated out on the cold air from +the side of the pond that we had just left. I think Chabot was right +about the cow being in the bushes, but he may have been mistaken--one's +hearing becomes unnaturally sensitive after a few weeks' continuous +straining to catch and distinguish the most distant sounds. But there +was no mistake about that bull's call. He was well back from the shore +on the hillside. The wind was wrong, and, although he grunted at +intervals for an hour, he paid no attention to Chabot's most seductive +pleadings. We imitated with paddles the splashings of a cow walking in +the shallow water, but this and other devices had no effect. When at +last even my Indian could no longer bear the bitter cold of the wind +which had sprung up, we started for camp. Long past midnight we crawled +into our blankets, and I dropped asleep cursing the day I had first gone +after moose. + +We were on that pond again before daylight. Not a sound to be heard, not +a living thing to be seen, when the sun rose. We took our stand on a +small point opposite the outlet and watched. I sat on a fallen tree +motionless, hour after hour. Chabot dozed beside me. Those four ducks +played and fed within thirty feet, and a muskrat worked at +house-building a few yards away. The silence was intense. There was not +a breath of wind. I knew my brother was doing the same thing on a +neighboring pond, and I fell to thinking whether there was some special +Nemesis about this hunt, or it was the fault of the guides. I glanced at +the outlet in front of me, about a half mile distant. + +There was a moose, stalking with the utmost deliberation along the edge +of the woods and then into the shallow water. + +Chabot was roused by a hasty shake, and a second later the canoe was +flying across the lake. As we crossed, I inspected the moose closely. He +was walking slowly, nibbling the long reed-like grass that stuck up from +the water. His neck seemed very stiff, and he swung his legs from his +hips and shoulders. The hump was extremely conspicuous, perhaps because +his head was carried low to get at the grass. He was a young bull, +nearly full grown, and with small antlers. He looked occasionally at the +canoe, now fast nearing him; but we had the advantage of the wind, and +the sun was going down behind us. It was just 5 o'clock. He walked, now +out toward us, now back to shore, as though about to bolt for the bush, +but working slowly toward the north, where we afterwards found a +much-used runway, leading to the marsh my brother was watching, two +miles away. I opened fire about fifty yards off, when the moose was +standing in about a foot of water, looking suspiciously at us. The shot +was too high, but struck him in the shoulder. He started in a lumbering +gallop along the shore. I fired again. This turned him into the woods at +an old lumber road. We heard the twigs snap sharply for a minute, and +then a heavy crash and silence. I thought we had lost him, but Chabot +declared that he was down. I sprang ashore the moment the canoe +grounded, and dashed in on his trail, which was perfectly clear on the +soft moss. Looking ahead through the open woods for the animal, which I +thought had turned, I almost fell over his prostrate body. + +His head rested against a small windfall, which he had tried to +clear--an effort which appeared to have cost him his life. Moss hung +from some small spruce trees close by, which had been kicked up in the +death struggle. The shoulder shot had been the fatal one, but he had +been hard hit in the side too. + +He was not full grown, and measured only 5 feet 6-1/2 inches in height, +and 8 feet 3-1/4 inches in length, from the nose to root of tail. His +girth at the shoulder was 5 feet 11-1/4 inches. His nose showed none of +the Jewish characteristics which taxidermists are fond of giving their +mounted moose heads. The forehead and shoulders were brownish instead of +black, like the rest of the body. The hindlegs were wholly white, as +were the forelegs below the knee. I am inclined to think he was a ranger +moose, but could not tell with certainty, as his horns were too +undeveloped. The velvet was still hanging in places, but very dry. This +was unusual, as it was the 10th of October. + +Ordering Chabot to dress the moose, I went back to the canoe, having +decided to watch until dark, although there seemed no possibility of +seeing another moose after the firing. My lazy guide, instead of obeying +my order, merely cut the skin, with the result that all the meat +spoiled--probably just what he wanted, fearing he would have to portage +it out of the bush. We returned to our point and dozed again. At a +quarter of 7 it was getting dark fast, and in the north a black, +ugly-looking cloud was gathering. We might as well go back to camp if it +was going to blow and rain, so I told Chabot to shove off and to give +one last toot of his horn, just for luck. + +The air was still as death with the dread of the impending storm. Chabot +took up the coiled birch, and the echoes rang out with a short grunting +call, which so much resembles a man chopping wood. Before they died +away, there came from behind us, just to our right, the unmistakable +answering grunt of a bull moose. He was probably on his way to the lake, +and our call merely hastened him and brought him out into the open +before it was too dark to shoot. He was very near and came steadily +forward, stopping now and then to listen. We could hear him plainly as +his horns broke the twigs at every step--once or twice he lashed the +bushes with them. He repeated his grunts, ungh! ungh! every few steps. +He was so evidently reckless that, to take no chance, I allowed Chabot +to answer only once--with the short call. I say short call, in +distinction to the long modulated call which is used to good purpose in +Maine and New Brunswick, but which I have never known to succeed in this +part of Canada. The moose paused for a moment in the alders that formed +a close thicket at the water's edge, and I feared he had seen or scented +us; then suddenly and noiselessly he stepped out from a cove a short +hundred yards away. He had taken less than ten minutes from the first +call to his appearance. + +At the first alarm we had pushed off and were floating quietly just by +the shore. The water was so shallow that the birch made, to my ears at +least, a frightful scraping as it pushed over the dead sticks that lay +in the water, and the wind was unfavorable. I never shall forget the +appearance that bull made as he stepped fiercely and proudly out, with +his head up, swinging a splendid set of antlers as lightly as straws. He +did not see us, but strode about ten yards into the shallow lake, where +the water scarcely covered his hoofs, and, first glancing away for a +second, turned like a flash and faced us full, looking down on us in +surprised disgust. He was greatly excited and the mane on his hump was +erect, increasing his natural height, and there was nothing timid or +deer-like in his appearance. I have seen in the arena a bull step out +from the darkened stall into the glare of sunlight, and gaze for a +moment at the picadors with a sort of indignant surprise; so this great +bull moose looked. + +We gazed motionless at each other, I knowing that it was one of the +grandest and rarest sights on the American continent, and he thinking, +no doubt, what a disgraceful imitation of a cow the motionless canoe +made. Chabot's breath was coming hard behind me, and I felt the birch +bark quiver. + +As I raised my rifle, I realized that it had suddenly grown very dark +under this western bank, and the bull precisely resembled in color the +background, and, large as he was, made a very poor mark. The tall grass, +which I had looked over in watching him, now sticking up in front of the +sights, bothered me. I fired at the root of his neck, and the rifle gave +a suppressed roar in the heavy air and the smoke hung like a pall. The +bull ran straight forward, hesitated as though about to charge, then +turned and made wonderful speed along the lake shore. The moment I could +see him I fired again. In the dim twilight he was almost out of sight. +When the smoke cleared he was gone. + +Neither of us moved. It was too frightful to miss such an immense +creature at that range. We heard him crash up the hillside and then stop +a short distance back in the wood. Then I knew he either was down or had +turned, unless he had found an open lumber road, where his horns would +make no sound; for a moose can go in the most mysterious manner when he +chooses to be quiet--but there was nothing quiet about this bull. + +Chabot declared that he had heard him cough, but I did not believe it. I +pointed to the spot where he had entered the bush, and a moment later +the canoe grated on the beach. There were the huge tracks with the hoofs +wide spread, and the trail entering an old lumber road. + +All this took less time to happen than to read, and yet it was now dark, +so quickly had night fallen. By straining my eyes I saw it was 7 +o'clock--just two hours after the first bull was killed. Chabot wanted +to go back to camp, which was the proper thing to do, especially as I +had now just one cartridge left. I had only taken a handful with me that +morning. + +We entered the forest foot by foot, Chabot following the trail where I +could scarcely see to step. A few yards in and the track turned from the +old road into the thick bush, and we knew the moose was near. A little +further, and we scarcely moved--stepping like cats from tree to tree, +expecting every second to hear an angry grunt and have the bull emerge +from the impenetrable veil of night that hung around us. + +At last we came to a windfall, and we were for some time at a loss to +find whether he had gone across or around it. In lighting a match with +extreme caution, the light fell on a tall moose wood stem about as large +as one's finger. Four feet from the ground it was dripping with bright +red blood. The coughing Chabot had heard was now, we thought, explained, +and the game hard hit. We decided to go back to camp; for, as my guide +put it very clearly, the wounded bull would either fight or run. I +wasn't anxious for the first alternative in the dark and tangled wood, +with one cartridge; and the second meant a long chase on the morrow. If +we left him until the morning, he would be either dead or too stiff from +his wound to go far. + +So back we went to camp, amply repaid by the events of two hours for +weeks of hardship and exposure. Just at daylight the next morning, as we +were leaving camp, prepared to take and keep the trail of that bull if +it led to Hudson Bay, my brother appeared with Jocko. He had had no +breakfast, and had come a long distance through a frightful bush in +order to be in at the death, as he had heard the firing, and shrewdly +suspected that in the dusk a wounded moose was the result. + +"From the tracks at my lake," said he, as he strode up to the fire, +"there are two bull moose around here--a large and a small one; which +did you get?" + +"Both," replied Chabot. + +We took the trail at the water's edge, and found it smeared with blood. +The bull could not have gone far. A short walk brought us to the +windfall where we had turned back the night before, and which had seemed +so deep in the woods. + +A hundred yards beyond it lay the bull on his right side. The second +shot had struck him in the center of the left ham and ranged through +him. The meat was spoiled, as was the hide--that is, the hair came out +so badly that it was not worth while to prepare it; but the neck and +scalp were perfect, except a bad scar on the forehead, received in +fighting. + +He was a grand sight as he lay dead in that silent autumn forest--for I +never can get over the impression that somehow or other the moose is a +survival of a long past order of nature, a fit comrade for the mammoth +and the cave bear. He was short and thickset, with immense chest +power--probably a swamp moose. The neck was short and stout, and he had +a Jewish cast of nose. No bell--merely the common dewlap. He measured at +the shoulder 6 feet 6 inches; 9 feet 8-1/2 inches from nose to tip of +tail; girth at shoulders, 6 feet 2-1/2 inches. We skinned and +decapitated the moose, one after the other. The meat of both was +completely spoiled, and it seemed wicked to leave those two huge +carcasses to the bears and wolves; but there was no help for it, so we +started for Mattawa. I doubt if we could have carried out any of the +meat if we had tried, for we had to throw away everything not absolutely +necessary on the long portages that followed. At last we reached +Rosiceau's, on Snake Lake, and, with the welcome the old man gave us, +felt quite at home once more. Then passing by the scenes of a former +hunt, we reached Fort Eddy, an old Hudson Bay post, and then the Ottawa +River. We ran the Cave rapids, and at sundown on a beautiful day the +town of Mattawa swung in sight, and the hunt was over. + +The country we had traversed contained little except bears and moose. We +saw a few caribou tracks, and brought home with us a curious caribou +antler, which we found in the woods. + +The fur animals have, within the last five years, been exterminated, and +the very few beaver that survive have abandoned their old habits, and +live in holes in the banks of the larger streams. We found traces of one +of these bank beaver, but he was probably traveling and we could not +catch him. A few mink were shot, but the country is completely stripped +of everything else of value. If the present law, prohibiting the +trapping of otter and beaver, can be enforced, perhaps the land may be +restocked, but it will take years. It is fit for nothing except fur and +timber, and, with efficient game wardens, could be made to produce a +large return from these sources. Partridges and loons abounded, but +ducks were seldom seen. + +The lakes form a complete system of communication by means of easy +portages, but there are no streams that contain trout and no springs to +supply drinking water. This lack of fresh water caused us considerable +suffering, as the lake water is supposed to be dangerous, and a pail of +spring water, which we got at the start, was carried for days over +portages as our most precious baggage. We did not see a sign of a brook +trout during the entire trip, and I do not believe that there were any +in the waters we traversed. There may have been lake trout, but our +trolling produced only pike and pickerel. + +This absence of small game and fish makes the country very +uninteresting, and the long monotony between most exciting events is the +greatest drawback to hunting on the Upper Ottawa. + +_Madison Grant._ + + + + +A Hunting Trip in India + + +Early in 1881 I landed at Bombay, intending to get as many varieties of +big game shooting as possible during the course of the year. I was well +armed with introductions, including many from the Department of State, +and during my stay in India was treated by the English military +officers, civil officials, planters and merchants with a hearty +hospitality which I cordially appreciated. Thanks to this hospitality, +and to the readiness with which all to whom I was introduced fell into +my plans, I was able to get a rather unusually varied quantity of sport. + +My first trip was in March, after tigers. On the 1st of March I started +from Hyderabad with Colonels Fraser and Watson, and traveled by +palanquin that day and night, and most of the next day, striking the +foot of the G[=a]t at a place called Rungapore, and then going on over a +great plain, beyond which we camped. The scenery was magnificent, and +we heard much news of the devastation of tigers among the large herds of +miserable-looking cattle belonging to the poor villagers roundabout. The +thermometer went up to 96 degrees in the shade during the day, but the +nights were lovely and cool. Thanks to Colonel Fraser, we were fitted +out as comfortably as we could be, and the luxury of the camp life +offered the strongest possible contrast to my experiences in roughing it +on the buffalo range in northwestern Texas. + +For the first two days we accomplished nothing, though several of the +cattle we had put out for baits were killed, and though we started and +beat the jungles with our elephants whenever we received khubber, or +news. Our camp equipage included twenty elephants, forty camels and +bullocks, thirty horses for the troopers, and fifty baggage horses. We +had seventeen private servants, twenty-six police, fifty-two bearers, +and an indefinite number of attendants for the elephants and camels, and +of camp followers. An Indian of high position, Sir Salar Jung, was along +also; so our total retinue comprised 350 men, in addition to which we +employed each day of beaters 150 or 200 more. + +On March 5th, one of the shikaris brought word that he had seen and +heard a tigress and two cubs at a nullah about six miles away. +Immediately we started up the valley, Col. Fraser, Col. Watson and +myself, each on his own elephant. The jungle was on fire and the first +beat was not successful, for we had to fight the fire, and in the +excitement the brute got off. However, some of the watchers saw her, and +marked her down in another small ravine. Through this we again beat, the +excitement being at fever heat. I was, of course, new to the work, and +the strangeness of the scene, the cries of the beaters and watchers, the +occasional explosion of native fireworks, together with the quantity of +other game that we saw, impressed me much. In this ravine I was favored +by good luck. The tigress broke right in front of me, and I hit her with +a ball from a No. 12 smooth-bore. She sickened at once and crawled back +into the jungle. In we went on the elephants, tracking her up. She made +no attempt to charge, and I finished her off with another barrel of the +smooth-bore and two express bullets. The crowd of natives ran up, +abusing the tigress and praising me, while the two colonels drank my +health. We then padded the tigress and rode back to camp, having been +gone from half past 9 in the morning till 7 in the evening. This tigress +weighed, when we brought her in, 280 pounds; her living weight must have +been much more. + +Next day we again got news of a tigress, with one cub, but we failed to +find her. The following day, for a change, I tried still-hunting through +the woods. There was not much game, but what we did see was far from +shy, and the shooting was easy. The camp was on a terrace, and from it +we went up a range of hills to the stalking ground. It was a stony +country and the trees were scrubby. I shot two cheetul, or spotted deer, +and also two of the little jungle cocks. The next day again was a blank, +but on the 9th we got another tiger. Thanks to the courtesy of my +friends, I was given the first shot, again hitting it with one barrel of +the smooth-bore. The heat was very great on this day. It was not +possible to touch the gun barrels without a glove, and the thirst was +awful. In the evening the cool bath was a luxury indeed. By moonlight +the camp was very fine. The next morning I was off at daybreak, snipe +shooting around a big tank, seven miles away. On my return I found that +my companions had gone out for a beat, and so, after a hurried +breakfast, I jumped on my horse and rode after them. That afternoon we +beat two ravines and got a tiger. This was the last tiger that we +killed. The weather was getting very warm, and, though we stayed a week +longer out, we failed to get on terms with Mr. Stripes again. However, I +shot three sambur stags. Two of them were weighed in camp, their weight +being, respectively, 450 and 438 pounds. + +It was now getting hot, and I determined to start northward for my +summer's hunting in the Himalayas and Cashmere, although it was rather +early to try to get through the mountains. I left Lahore on April 6th +for the Pir Pinjal. My transportation consisted of eight pack ponies and +three native single-horse carts. I was shown every courtesy by Mr. +McKay, a member of the Forest Department, at Gujarat. I intended to make +a hunt for gorals and bears in the mountains around the Pir Pinjal +before striking through to Cashmere. The goral is a little mountain +antelope, much like the chamois, only with straight horns. The bear in +the region in which I was hunting was the black bear, which is very +much like our own black bear. Further on in the Himalayas is found the +red or snow bear, which is a good deal like the great brown bear of +Europe, or a small and inoffensive grizzly. After leaving Gujarat, I +traveled for several days before coming to my hunting ground proper, +although on the way I killed some peacocks, partridges, and finally some +very handsome pheasants of different kinds. The country offered the +greatest possible contrast to that in which I had been hunting tigers. +Everything was green and lovely, and the scenery was magnificent beyond +description--the huge steep mountains rising ahead of me, while the +streams were crystal-clear, noisy torrents. The roads were very rough, +and the wild flowers formed great carpets everywhere. + +On the 16th of April I began my shooting, having by this time left my +heavy baggage behind, and having with me only what the coolies could +carry. I had two shikaris, four servants and twelve coolies, besides +myself. On April 16th I killed my first goral. I had hunted in vain all +day, but about 5 o'clock one of the shikaris advised my starting out +again and climbing around the neighboring cliffs. I did this for two +and one-half hours, and then got a close shot and killed the little +beast. This was my first trial of grass-shoes, and my first experience +in climbing over the stupendous mountain masses; for stupendous they +were, though they were only the foothills of the Himalayas proper. +Without grass-shoes it is impossible to climb on these smooth, grassy +slopes; but I found that they hurt my feet a great deal. The next day I +again went off with my two shikaris over the mountains. Each of them +carried a gun. I had all I could do to take care of myself without one, +for a mis-step would have meant a fall of a thousand or two feet. In the +morning we saw five gorals and I got one. At 10 I stopped and a coolie +came up with a lunch, and I lay reading, sleeping and idly watching the +grand mountains until the afternoon, when we began again to examine the +nullahs for game, being all the time much amused by the monkeys. At 4 we +started again, and in a jagged mass of precipices I got another goral. +The next day I repeated my experience, and had one of the characteristic +bits of bad luck, offset by good luck, that come to every +hunter--missing a beautiful shot at fifty yards, and then, by a fluke, +killing a goral at 300 yards. The animal, however, fell over 1,000 feet +and was ruined. I myself had a slip this day and went down about fifty +feet. The following day I again went off to climb, and the first ascent +was so steep that at the top I was completely blown, and missed a +beautiful shot at a goral at fifty yards. I then arranged a beat, but +nothing came from it, and the morning was a blank. In the afternoon I +gave up beating and tried still-hunting again. It was hard work, but I +was very successful, and killed two gorals and a bear. + +At this time I was passed by two English officers, also going in to +shoot--one of them, Captain S. D. Turnbull, a very jolly fellow and a +good sportsman, with whom I got on excellent terms; the other, a Captain +C., was a very bad walker and a poor shot, and was also a disagreeable +companion, as he would persist in trying to hang around my hunting +grounds, thus forcing me continually to shift. + +On April 21st I tried driving for gorals, and got four, and on the next +two days I got three gorals and two bears. So far I had had great luck +and great sport. The work was putting me in fine trim, except my feet, +which were getting very sore. It was very hard work going after the +gorals. The bears offered easier stalking, and, like our American black +bear but unlike our grizzly, they didn't show fight. The climbing was +awful work. The stones and grass-shoes combined bruised and skinned the +soles of my feet, so that I could not get relief without putting them in +clarified butter and then keeping them up in the air. Accordingly I +tried resting for a day, and meant to rest the following day too; but +could not forbear taking a four hours' stroll along the banks of the +brawling, snow-fed river, and was rewarded by shooting a surow--a queer, +squatty, black antelope, about the size of a Rocky Mountain white goat +and with similar horns. The next day I rested again, hoping my feet +would get better. Instead they got worse, and I made up my mind that, as +they were so bad, I might as well get some hunting anyhow, so off I +tramped on the 27th for another all-day jog. It would be difficult to +describe the pain that my feet gave me all day long. However, it was a +real sporting day. I suffered the tortures of the damned, but I got two +gorals and one tahr--a big species of goat with rather small horns--and +then hobbled back to camp. Next day I stayed quietly in camp, and then +started back to the camp where I had left my heavy baggage. On the way I +picked up another black bear. My feet were in a frightful condition, but +I had had a fortnight's excellent sport. + +I then went on to Cashmere, and on May 6th reached Siringur. The scenery +was beautiful beyond description, and the whole life of the natives very +attractive to look at. However, something did not agree with me, for I +was very sick and had to go to bed for several days. There were one or +two American friends there, and these and the Englishmen, to whom I had +letters of introduction, treated me with extreme courtesy. As soon as I +got well, I started off for the real mountains, hoping especially to get +ibex and markhoor. The ibex is almost exactly the same as the European +animal of that name. The markhoor is a magnificent goat, with long +whitish hair and great spiral horns. They also have in these Cashmere +valleys a big stag called the barramigh, which is a good deal like our +wapiti, only not half so large. On May 21st I started off, first by +boat, but I was bothered from the beginning by chills and fever. I was +weak, and glad I didn't have to march. At first, all I did in shooting +was to have my coolies beat some brush patches near camp. Out of one of +them they started a little musk-deer, which I shot. Soon I began to get +very much better and we took up our march. I was going toward Astor, but +encountered much snow, as it was still early in the season for these +high mountains. I saw some grand barramigh, but their horns were, of +course, only just growing, and I didn't molest them. + +Very soon I got into a country where the red bears literally swarmed. +From May 26th to June 5th, during which time I was traveling and hunting +all the time, I shot no less than sixteen, together with two musk-deer, +but saw nothing else. The marching was very hard, and some of the passes +dangerous. I met a British officer, Lieutenant Carey, on the 30th, who +treated me very well indeed. The scenery was very beautiful, although +rather bleak. I did not pick up strength as much as I had hoped. On June +3d I christened my camp Camp Good Luck, because of the phenomenal +success I had with the bears. That morning we left by 4 to cross the +river before the snow had melted. The thermometer would go down to 30 +degrees, even in the valleys, at night, so that everything would freeze, +and then would go up to 110 in the day, and when the snow melted the +streams would come down in a perfect torrent. Not two miles beyond the +river I saw three bears on the side of a hill, a she and two +two-year-old cubs. My shikari made a splendid stalk and brought me +within forty yards, and I got all three with a shot apiece. The delight +of my camp followers was amusing. I then left the tents, and, taking +only my blankets and a lunch basket with me, started off again. At +midday I slept, and at 2 o'clock started up the nullah, seeing a number +of bears. One of them I got within fifty yards, and two others, right +and left, at 100 yards. The skinning took a long time, and the stream +which I had to cross was up with the evening flood, so that I didn't get +back to camp until 10 o'clock. I had shot unusually well, I had been +happy and was all tired out, and it is needless to say how I slept. + +Soon after this I began to suffer from fever, and I had to work very +hard indeed, as I was now on the ibex ground. For several days, though I +saw ibex, I was unable to get near them. Finally, on June 9th, I got my +first one, a young buck with small horns. I had to hunt way up the +mountain, even beyond bush vegetation, and the hot sun at midday was +awful. Nevertheless, by very hard climbing, I managed on this day to get +within shot first of a herd of nine females, which I did not touch, and +then of the young buck, which I killed. On June 13th, by another +heart-breaking climb, very high up, I got a second small buck. I did not +get back to camp that night till half past 9--tired out, feet badly cut +with the stones and bruised all over; but in spite of the fever I +enjoyed every day--the scenery was so grand and the life so +exhilarating. Four days afterwards came a red-letter day. I started +early in the morning, clambering up among the high mountains. Until noon +I saw nothing; then several flocks of ibex came in sight, one of them of +eleven big bucks. I had to wait four hours to get into a position to +stalk; then by quick work and awful climbing I came within close range +and killed three. It was half past 10 in the evening before I got back +to camp, very nearly done up, but exultant over my good luck. + +The traveling now became very severe and I had a great deal of +difficulty even with the coolies, and though I hunted hard I got little +game until July 8th. I had been shifting, trying to get on markhoor +ground, and on this day I killed my first markhoor. The shikaris and I +left the coolies to go around the path while we went over the mountain, +a five hours' climb, keeping a sharp lookout for game. Just at the +beginning of the ascent we saw three fine-looking markhoor grazing in a +nullah, and after a stalk of about a mile, during which time it began to +rain, the beasts went into a jungle on the steep side of the mountain. +Through this we still-hunted and I got a shot through the bushes at 100 +yards. By good luck I hit and great was the rejoicing. Five days later I +got two ibex, which at a distance we had mistaken for markhoor. Then I +was attacked by a terrible dysentery and was within an ace of dying. For +a fortnight I was unable to leave camp, excepting when I was carried +slowly along by the coolies in the effort to get me out of the +mountains. On August 1st I shot a second markhoor. We were journeying at +the time. In the very rough places I had to walk, though awfully weak; +elsewhere the coolies carried me. The markhoor was just below us, round +a turn in the Indus Valley. I was in advance with one of the shikaris +and got a quiet shot, and more by good luck than anything else--for I +was very weak--I killed. I now began gradually to pick up strength, and +when near Astor I got a urial, a kind of wild sheep. + +I had no other experience of note till I got back to Siringur, where I +stayed to recuperate, and at the end of August went off once more into +the foothills, this time after barramigh. In a week's work I killed +three, but again became sick, and had to give up and come in. + +I forthwith returned to India, the hot weather being by this time pretty +well over. As I was very anxious to kill an elephant, I went down to +Ceylon, reaching that island the end of October and going out to Kandy. +I met a number of Englishmen, who were very kind to me, as were some +Eurasian gentlemen. On November 16th I left Minerva for a regular hunt. +It was very interesting shooting through the tropical jungle and I had +good luck. There were plenty of elephants, but at first I didn't get +any, though I shot five spotted deer and a boar. Finally, however, I got +two of the big brutes I was mainly after. One of them, which I killed on +the 20th of the month, was said to be a rogue that had killed two +villagers and done at intervals a good deal of damage to the crops. An +old native tracker had guaranteed to show me this elephant. He kept his +word. For three or four miles we had a very exciting track, and then +came on him standing in the jungle, occasionally flapping his ears, and +crept up to within thirty yards. I think he was asleep and I got a +perfectly good shot, but, extraordinary to say, I missed. However, when +he ran I went after him, and, getting very close, I shot him in the hip, +so injuring his leg that he could not get away. He could still get round +after us, and we passed a most lively half-hour, he trumpeting and +charging incessantly, until, after expending a great quantity of +cartridges, I finally put a bullet behind his eye, and down he went. + +Soon after this I went back to Kandy, and early in December left India +for good. + +_Elliott Roosevelt._ + + + + +[Illustration: HOW OUR OUTFIT WAS CARRIED.] + +Dog Sledging in the North + + +A good many years ago, my friends, Boies Penrose, Granville Keller, and +I concluded that it would be a fitting termination to a very successful +summer and fall hunting trip in the Rocky Mountains to endeavor to kill +some moose and caribou in the Lake Winnipeg country, Manitoba. Thus we +should combine very different kinds of sport amid surroundings more +dissimilar than we imagined at the time. The whole of this rather +memorable trip occupied nearly six months. + +Our adventures during the latter part of the hunt, that is, during our +sojourn in the far north--while a part of the every-day experience of +those familiar with the winter life in the woods of that country--were +of a character totally unknown to the majority of sportsmen in the +United States, and for this reason it has been thought worth while to +give a short account of them. + +If my recollection serves me correctly, we arrived at Selkirk, at the +lower end of Lake Winnipeg, in the latter part of October, to find +navigation already closed. We had hoped to reach the upper part of the +lake by means of a steamer, but found this impossible, and were +therefore obliged to go on sleds to our first hunting ground--a moose +country to the south of the head waters of the Fisher River, between +Lake Winnipeg and Lake Winnipegosis. + +At Selkirk we were joined by a Mr. Phillips, and we had there employed +an Indian boy to look after the dogs. This Indian was a magnificent +specimen physically, and certainly the best walker that I have ever +known. With the exception of a pardonable fondness for our whisky, he +behaved very well at first, but afterward became so insufferably lazy +that he was scarcely fit for the simple work of driving one of the dog +teams--a change which was to be attributed entirely to our kind +treatment of him. He was, however, a good trailer, but the worst shot +that I remember to have met. He seemed to have no difficulty in finding +moose, but could not hit them, which was the exact reverse of our +experience. + +Portions of the country between Lakes Winnipeg and Winnipegosis, +visited by our party, are as flat as the flattest portions of New +Jersey, and for great distances nothing could be more level except +possibly a billiard table. It is traversed by very few rivers or even +creeks, there being immense stretches of territory where the only guide +back to camp is the sun when it shines, or when it does not your +compass, or the dog-sled trail through the snow leading to the camp. The +different portions of this region are so much alike that it is almost +impossible to tell one from another. + +Owing to the fact that it is very dangerous to be caught out over night, +with the thermometer ranging anywhere from zero to 50 degrees below, we +took the precaution to mount a big red flag in the top of the highest +spruce we could find near our camp, so that, by climbing a high tree +anywhere within a radius of a mile or so, one could easily see this +flag. To still further reduce the chance of getting lost, we blazed the +trees in a straight line for four miles due south of the camp, and, as +the dog-sled trail came into our camp (which was in the heavy timber) +from the north, it was not difficult to find one's way home in the +evening. These precautions--needless elsewhere, but wise in this +country--were taken principally because each of us had always been in +the habit for years of hunting alone--a practice which I would recommend +to anyone who desires to be really successful in killing big game. + +This vast expanse of flat country is quite heavily wooded over large +areas, the timber being spruce, tamarack, poplar, birch, etc., with a +great abundance of red and gray willow. The underbrush is sometimes very +thick. There are, however, innumerable open places, which bear the local +name of muskegs. These are, of course, marshes in summer, and covered +with a heavy growth of grass; in winter they are frozen hard, and +traveling over them is comparatively easy. + +The moose seem to be fond of remaining close to the edges of these +muskegs, which are usually fringed with a heavy growth of willows. It +would appear, however, that they venture out into these open places +either during the night, early in the morning, or late in the afternoon; +and, as these were the times when we were very glad either to be in camp +or to be returning to it, we had more success in finding the moose in +the timber, or on the little so-called ridges, which sometimes attain +the remarkable height of four or five feet. + +Up to the time of leaving this camp we had very little opportunity to +use snowshoes, as the snow was not yet--about the last of November--deep +enough to make these necessary. We hunted all of the time in moccasins, +boots of any description being simply out of the question, as they would +soon freeze as hard as iron. After the cold weather set in, one day's +experience with boots was quite sufficient for me, and I came to the +conclusion, as I had often before in other regions, that it is very +difficult to improve, in the matter of clothing, upon the customs of the +country. The sudden change to moccasins was very tiring at first, but +after one gets used to walking in them he will find that he can walk +further and hunt better in them than any other style of foot-gear. We +used, as I remember, first one or two pairs of heavy woolen socks, then +a very heavy so-called "German" sock, coming up to the knee, over which +we wore the high laced moccasin of the country. + +Before we had very long been engaged in moose hunting we all learned +that we were not so expert in the art of killing big game as we +previously imagined ourselves. In all my experience I have never met +with any animal which is so difficult to get a shot at, even when quite +numerous, as the moose in this region. It must always be borne in mind +that to kill a moose--especially in a country where they have been +hunted for generations by the Indians--by the thoroughly sportsmanlike +method of following the trail of one until you finally get a shot at it +and kill it, is a totally different thing from killing the same moose +either by calling him at night in the autumn or by paddling on him in a +canoe in the summer. In fact, of all the difficult things I have ever +undertaken in the way of sport, I regard this as the most difficult; and +before I got my first shot I began to think that there was a great deal +of truth in the Indian's sneering remark, "White man no kill moose." +Finally one day my luck turned, but that it did so was due more to the +realization of my own inferiority, and lack of the proper kind of +knowledge, than to anything else. + +It happened in this way: having thoroughly convinced myself that the +moose either smelt me or in some other way found out that I was in their +neighborhood before I could be made aware of the same fact, I concluded +that there was something radically wrong in my manner of hunting them, +although I employed every method known to me--methods which had been +acquired in an experience during which I had killed considerably over +one hundred head of big game, throughout the Rockies and the +Alleghanies. In short, I was exceedingly painstaking and careful. +Notwithstanding all my precautions, however, I remember that I had the +satisfaction one night of knowing that I had started during the day +eight different moose, each separately, without hearing or seeing a +single one of them. This sort of thing lasted for twenty-two consecutive +days, or until I finally concluded that, as our Indian seemed to have no +trouble in seeing moose, I would follow his tactics. Waiting, therefore, +one morning until I was sure that the Indian had left camp, I changed my +course so as to intersect his trail, followed this for some distance, +and watched carefully his foot-prints, so as to read the record of his +hunt. + +Pretty soon it became apparent that he had come across a moose trail. He +tried it first with the toe of his moccasin, then with the butt of his +gun, and satisfied himself that it was too old to follow. He went on +until he came across another trail, and evidently had spent considerable +time in making up his mind whether it was worth while to follow this +trail or not. He then followed it for a few yards, and, to my surprise, +suddenly left it, and went off almost at right angles to the leeward. I +supposed that he had given up the moose trail, but nevertheless I +followed further on his track. Again to my surprise, I presently found +him gradually coming around in a circuitous fashion to the trail again, +until he finally reached it. He then immediately retraced his steps, +making another semi-circle, bearing generally, however, in the direction +the moose had gone, and again came to the trail. This occurred four or +five times, until finally the explanation of his conduct flashed upon +me, for there lay his cartridge. I saw--as he afterward described it to +me--where he had shot at the moose, which had just arisen out of its bed +a short distance away, but, as usual, he had missed it. Now I had +noticed, in my three weeks' experience, that I had come upon the moose +either lying down or standing in some thicket, but that they had been +able to wind me considerably before my arrival at the spot marked by +their beds in the snow. Not until then had occurred to me what is well +known to many who still-hunt moose, namely, that before lying down they +generally make a long loop to the leeward, returning close to their +trail, so that they can readily get the wind of anyone following upon it +long before he reaches them, when, of course, they quietly get up and +sneak away. In fact, they do not seem to have an atom of curiosity in +their composition, and in this are different from most other wild +animals that I have known. By making these long loops to the leeward the +hunter reduces to a minimum the likelihood of being smelt or heard by +the moose; and in these animals the senses of smell and hearing are very +acute, although their eyesight seems to be bad. + +Having quite satisfied myself as to what it was necessary to do, I +waited until the next day to put it into execution, because by the time +I had made my discovery it was about half past 2 o'clock, and the sun +was near the horizon. + +The following day I went out bright and early, and, after varying +success in finding a good trail, I ran across a trail made by five bull +moose, a photograph of one of which is shown. After satisfying myself +that the trail had been made during the previous night, I began making +the long loops to the leeward which I had found to be so necessary. I +finally came to the place where the moose had lain down--a bed showing +one of them to have unusually large horns--but they had gone on again, +in a manner, however, that showed that they were merely feeding, and not +alarmed. I redoubled my precautions, stepping as if on eggs, so as not +to break the twigs underneath my feet. In a short time I heard the +significant chattering of one of the little red pine squirrels so +abundant in that region. I at once knew that the squirrel had seen +something, but had not seen me. It did not take me long to make up my +mind that the only other living things in that vicinity which would be +likely to cause him to chatter were these moose, and that they were +probably startled, although I had not been conscious of making any +noise. At any rate, I ran quite rapidly toward the end of a small narrow +muskeg on my left, but some distance away, to which chance conclusion +and prompt action I owe probably one of the most fortunate and exciting +pieces of shooting that has occurred in my experience. I was shooting at +that time a little double rifle (.450-120-375 solid bullet), which had +been made for me by Holland & Holland, and which was fitted with one of +my conical sights. + +Before I was within fifty yards of the end of the muskeg, I saw one of +the moose dash across it, about 150 yards away. I fired quickly, and in +much the same way that I would shoot at a jacksnipe which had been +flushed in some thicket; but had the satisfaction of seeing the animal +lurch heavily forward as he went out of sight into the timber. Almost +immediately, and before I had time to reload, the second moose followed. +I gave him the other barrel, but I did not know until afterward that he +was hit. In fact, it was hard to get a bullet through the timber. I +reloaded quickly, and ran forward to get to the opening; but before I +reached it, the third moose passed in immediately behind the others. I +again shot quickly, and felt that I had probably hit him. By running on +rapidly I reached the edge of the opening in time to intercept the +fourth moose. As he came into the opening I got a good shot at him, not +over eighty yards distant, and felt very sure of this one at least. I +then reloaded, when, to my amazement, the fifth, in a very deliberate +manner, walked, not trotted, into the muskeg, which at the point where +the moose crossed it was not over sixty or seventy feet wide. He first +looked up and down, as if undetermined what to do, and then, probably +seeing one of the other moose on the ground, commenced walking up toward +me. As luck would have it, I got a cartridge jammed in my rifle, and +could not pull it out or knock it in, although I nearly ruined my +fingers in my attempt to do so. Of course, this was the biggest bull of +all, and I had the supreme satisfaction of seeing him deliberately walk +out of my sight into the woods, and he was lost to me forever. His horns +were much larger than those which I got. Up to that time I had no idea +that I had killed any except the last moose that I shot at, but thought +that perhaps I had wounded one or two of the others, feeling that I +would be very lucky if I should ever come up with them. + +Going down to the place where the moose had disappeared, after I had got +my rifle fixed--that is, had extracted the cartridge and put in +another--I found one of the moose dead; another, a big one, on his +knees, and the third a short distance away, looking very dejected and +uncomfortable. I did not know then that the largest bull of all had +stopped on the other side of a little thicket; and when I commenced to +give the finishing touches to the wounded moose in sight, he, +accompanied by another wounded one, got away. As I shot the big one on +his knees, I was surprised by a noise, and upon turning around found the +dejected looking small bull coming full drive toward me. I had only time +to turn around and shoot him in the breast before he was on me. I do not +think that he intended to charge; his coming toward me was probably +entirely accidental. Still it had the effect of sending my heart in my +mouth. I then started out after the wounded one, but when I saw that he +was not bleeding much concluded that, as it was growing late, and I was +seven or eight miles from camp, I would not have more than time to cover +up the three moose with snow so that I could skin them the next morning. +Before doing so, however, I sat down on top of my biggest moose, and, as +these were the first moose that I had ever seen, I surveyed them with a +great deal of satisfaction. + +About this time Phillips, who had been attracted by the shooting, +appeared in the distance, and I hailed him by a shot, when he came to +me. We then carefully covered up the moose with snow and pulled out for +camp. When we arrived there and told our story, a more disconsolate +looking Indian you could not have found in the whole region, and he +doubtless came to the conclusion that his sweeping assertion as to the +inability of a white man to kill a moose in that country was perhaps a +little too broad. + +Our luck seemed to turn from this time and we got several very good +moose, but unfortunately no other large heads. After telling this story +I do not wish to go upon record as a game slaughterer, for those who +know anything of my hunting know that I am strongly opposed to anything +of the kind. We usually have killed only enough game for meat in camp, +but at this time we had to feed beside ourselves ten dogs. Moreover, I +have never thought that the killing of bulls made very much difference +in the amount of the game, although in shooting them we have usually +made it a rule to kill only such heads as we wished to take home. I +should add, moreover, that all the meat that we did not use of the +moose that we killed in this country was distributed among some Indians +whom we met on our return, and who, hearing of our luck, followed our +dog trail to the hunting grounds after our departure. + +Having had enough moose hunting, and anxious to kill caribou, we +concluded to cross Lake Winnipeg, which by this time--early in +December--was frozen hard with nearly six feet of ice, the cracking of +which, especially at night, produces a very curious and +never-to-be-forgotten sound, which can be heard for miles. We soon +reached the lake, but were detained a day or two waiting for a favorable +day to cross--that is to say, one when the wind did not blow, as when it +does the exposure in crossing on the ice is terrific. After finally +venturing upon the ice, we made some forty or fifty miles the first day, +and reached the edge of an island, in the middle of which there were a +few houses occupied principally by Icelandic immigrants. These earn a +precarious livelihood by fishing for whitefish and jackfish principally +in the summer. They keep up this fishing all through the winter, +however, to supply their own needs, by setting their nets underneath +the ice, employing a very simple method, which, if De Long and his party +had known and provided for, they would never have perished so miserably +in the Lena delta. Here we were witnesses to the fact which entitles us +to claim that the common domestic cow is not, strictly speaking, +properly to be classed among the _herbivora_. We distinctly saw a very +ordinary looking cow devour with evident relish, while she was being +milked, a large jackfish, which had been taken from a frozen pile +stacked up outside of the house and thawed for her evening meal. + +These Icelanders live as a rule in a primitive but very comfortable way. +They are much more neat and cleanly than many of the immigrants who come +to the United States, and it is a pity that we do not have them in this +country, for they seem to be very industrious and would make good +citizens. However, it is probable that they were in search of cold +weather, and would not be happy unless they had it. If this is the case, +they most certainly have chosen the best spot on this continent which is +at all accessible; for the region around Lake Winnipeg is, I am told, +one of the coldest places where any reliable record of the temperature +is kept. During our trip, and especially while we were on the east side +of the lake, the temperatures recorded were very low, often 45 degrees +below zero. In fact, during our absence there was a record of 50 degrees +below zero at Selkirk and Winnipeg; and, as we were over a hundred miles +to the north, it is not unreasonable to suppose that the temperature was +quite as low, if not lower, with us. It must not be forgotten, however, +that, except for the cracking of the frozen trees, it is deathly still +and quiet in these regions when the temperature drops to 10 degrees +below zero. Indeed, when the temperature is below that point, it is +usually much more comfortable for one who is out in such weather than a +temperature of zero, or even 20 degrees above, with a heavy wind. Under +these conditions, however, an ordinary man when out hunting cannot +occasionally sit down on a log and smoke his pipe, for any length of +time, with a great amount of pleasure. Like the persecuted boy in the +play, although there are no policemen about, he is compelled, and indeed +is usually perfectly willing, to keep "movin' on." + +After leaving Big Island, as I remember the name, we made our way +across to the mouth of the Bad Throat River, where there was an old +lumber camp, which a great many years ago was the scene of an important +conflict between the Hudson Bay Company's men and the men of the +Northwest Fur Company, in which quite a number were killed. Here we got +another team of dogs, and picked up another member for our party in the +person of an Englishman, who by choice had drifted into this country and +lived there, marrying an Indian squaw shortly after our return. +Unfortunately, the good old-fashioned plan of performing the marriage +ceremony by running together under a blanket had been abolished, so he +had to wait until the yearly visit of the priest. This marrying of +squaws is of course common among the white men of this region. + +As we had only a few things to get before starting out for the famous +caribou country between the head waters of the Hole, the Askandoga and +the Blood Vein rivers, we were not delayed long at this place. The snow +was now quite heavy, at least enough so for comfortable snowshoe +traveling, and we made rapid time after leaving the Bad Throat River. In +this connection it is to be remarked that comparatively little snow +falls in this region. This seems singular, and I do not know the +meteorological explanation of the fact. There is certainly very much +less, for instance, than in Minnesota, hundreds of miles to the south. +The snow, however, is usually a dry powder all through winter, and very +rarely becomes crusted. + +In traveling over broken timbered country with dog-sleds, very much the +same routes are followed that one takes with a canoe in summer--that is +to say, you avoid the rough country by traveling on the rivers, which +are usually covered with thick ice, or over the same portages that are +used in summer. It was necessary for either Penrose, Keller or myself to +lead the way with our snowshoes, while the others took care of the +dog-sleds behind. The dogs followed accurately in the trail beaten out +by our snowshoes for them. + +The country on this side of the lake, unlike that of the west, is very +rough, rocky and rugged, and especially so near the lake shore. It is +quite thickly timbered. As one advances into the interior, however, this +aspect changes, so that the country near the height of land is more +open, and there are long stretches of nearly level country traversed by +rocky, moss-covered and roughly parallel ridges. There is more or less +timber on these ridges, and in the so-called muskegs between them. This +is the country which the caribou seem to prefer. + +After about two weeks' hard traveling, we reached the country which had +been recommended to us and came upon great abundance of caribou sign. In +fact, there were millions of tracks, but, curiously enough, no caribou +were to be seen. We afterward found that they had been driven out by a +lot of wolves, which probably had followed them down from the north. +While this explanation was interesting, it was not productive of any +great amount of satisfaction to the party, for we had been counting +definitely upon fresh meat, and so had our dogs. At least, after doing +the terrific work necessary to make this journey, it is fair to presume +that they had counted upon being fed, and not being left to starve +miserably while tied to a tree. + +To add to our hardships, our Indian tepee, made of canvas, began to +smoke so excessively as to cause us the greatest discomfort, and we all +thought we had pneumonia; but afterward concluded it was nothing but +irritation of the lungs, due to breathing pine smoke a good many hours +each day. In fact, it was almost unbearable. An Indian tepee of this +kind, properly made by a squaw, is beyond doubt the most comfortable of +all hunting tents in any respectable climate; but in a climate of 40 +degrees below zero it is an abomination. We used frequently to crawl +into our sheep-skin sleeping bags, wrap several blankets around the bags +and put the fire out, merely to get relief from the annoyance of the +smoke. In the morning the steam which arose from our bodies, and from +the meal which we might be cooking, got mixed up with the smoke, so that +it was impossible to distinguish each other when four feet apart. In +fact, we were sometimes inclined to think that the dogs on the outside +were better off than ourselves, though the appearance they presented in +the morning was not such as to cause us to wish to change places with +them. They were each tied by a short chain to the pine trees about the +camp, and after a night of low temperature there were to be seen in the +morning only twelve white mounds of snow; not that any snow had fallen +during the night, or that the dogs had crawled underneath that already +on the ground. Their white appearance was simply due to the dense +coating of frost which had been produced from the condensation caused by +the heat of their bodies. It must not be forgotten, however, that they +are as hardy and as well able to withstand this rigorous climate as the +wolves, from which many of them are directly descended. All of the +so-called "huskies" are of this type. + +Altogether things were not very pleasant about this time. Our Christmas +Day rations consisted of one small roll each with a little coffee for +breakfast, and in the evening each man was given a small piece of +rabbit. + +The rabbits in this country were unfortunately not as abundant as they +were on the opposite side of the lake, where the Indian boy one day went +out with one of our rifles to visit his rabbit snares and to shoot +rabbits for the dogs. Before long we heard him shoot four times. He came +back to camp with eight rabbits, which had certainly been killed with +the rifle, none of them having been snared. + +Those of us who were able to hunt at all hunted with the greatest +perseverance, but with little success, until finally some one brought in +the report that caribou had been seen, and in a very few days the +country again contained numbers of them. + +One morning, shortly after the first caribou had been seen, Keller, who +had been quite sick, was unable longer to tolerate the smoke of the +tepee, and took a little walk with his rifle close around our camp. He +soon came upon the fresh trail of a bunch of caribou. He had followed it +only a few hundred yards when he saw one of the caribou lying down. He +is a dead shot, the best I have ever known in my life. He carefully +steadied himself, raised his .45-90 Winchester, aimed at the caribou +lying down and fired. When he went up to look at it, to his amazement, +he came across another dead caribou, between the spot where he had fired +and the one at which he had aimed. It had been shot straight through the +temples. On going further, he found the other caribou shot exactly where +he had aimed at it, some twenty yards distant from the first one. The +only possible way in which he could explain this remarkable occurrence +is that the caribou which had been shot through the head, and which he +had not seen, had risen out of its bed just as he was in the act of +firing and interposed his head directly in the line of fire. The fact +of having fresh meat in camp, of course, brought great joy to us all, +and especially to the semi-starved dogs. As in the case of killing the +first moose, it seemed to have the effect of changing our luck, for we +afterward killed a number of caribou, although we were not successful in +getting good heads. + +These caribou are totally different from the moose in the kind of food +they live upon and in their general habits. They prefer a different sort +of a country, the two rarely being found together. They spend much of +their time in the muskegs, which seem to be characteristic of all of +that region of the country; but these muskegs are not open, like those +on the west side of the lake, being more or less covered with a growth +of stubby jack pine, from which usually hangs an abundance of long gray +moss. The caribou feed upon this moss, while the moose, on the other +hand, are fond of the tender sprouts of the red and gray willow. The +caribou, however, are often found on the rocky ridges, where they find +good feed on the moss growing upon the rocks. Indeed, they seem to have +no settled place of abode, like moose, being probably one of the most +restless animals on the face of the earth. They seem to be always on +the move. Unlike the moose, they are very inquisitive, in this respect +being more like the antelope than any other animal. They are found +singly, or in twos or threes, or in small bunches of ten to twenty, but +often in great herds of a hundred or perhaps a thousand. They spend a +great deal of their time on the lakes in the winter, where they play +with each other like kittens. They are wonderfully quick in their +actions. They are also very sure of their footing, and we saw a number +of places in the snow where they had slid down quite steep rocks for +some distance, probably by putting their four feet close together. Great +herds often come down from the region on the western shore of Hudson Bay +and return the following summer. + +Very few people have any idea of the immense numbers of caribou which +are found in the great tract of country to the west of Hudson Bay. By +many who are familiar with this country they are believed to be as +numerous as the buffaloes ever were in the early days. When more or less +scarce, as they were during the greater portion of our hunt, they afford +excellent hunting; but I should imagine that when they are very +numerous there would be little sport in killing them, for as a rule they +are not at all shy or difficult to approach. In general it may be said +that the caribou of this region, known as the woodland caribou, live in +the wooded districts during the summer and autumn, but in the winter +time go to the higher land. Wind and cold seem to have no terror for +them, and I doubt very much whether there is an animal in the world, +with the exception perhaps of the musk-ox or the polar bear, that is so +well fitted by nature to withstand the intense cold of the region in +which they live. When one sees a caribou's track for the first time, he +is amazed at its size, and its difference from the long, narrow, +sharp-toed track of the moose, and naturally comes to the conclusion +that the animal must be much larger than it really is. As a matter of +fact, they are not much larger than the black-tailed deer, and +considerably smaller than the elk of the Rocky Mountains. Until he has +seen them, one is likely to imagine that the caribou is an ungainly, +misshapen animal. This is a great mistake. Not only are they as a rule +well proportioned, but they are extremely graceful. Their curious horns +give them, of course, rather an odd appearance. The meat we found to be +delicious, and rather better than moose meat. + +After having remained as long as we desired in this country, and as long +as we could stand the infernal smoke of the tepee, and after having +secured a good supply of meat for our return journey, we loaded our +toboggans and retraced our steps without especial incident to the mouth +of the Bad Throat River. From there we took a sleigh to Selkirk, driving +over the lake on the ice, and arriving at Selkirk the latter part of +January or the 1st of February. + +To those who may contemplate taking a similar trip to the Canadian woods +in winter, I would say that it will prove a very interesting and +never-to-be-forgotten experience, and that the hardships of such a trip +are not necessarily severe if one will be guided entirely by the advice +of the inhabitants of the region, especially as to his clothing and +general outfit. I feel certain that, if one goes to the right locality, +not only will he get good sport, but he will get it under very pleasant +and novel conditions, and return home more benefited in every way than +if he had taken a trip of the same duration to some warm climate. Under +no circumstances, however, let him imagine that he knows more than the +people of the country as to what he should do and wear. + +_D. M. Barringer._ + + + + +[Illustration: OUTESHAI, RUSSIAN BARZOI.] + +Wolf-Hunting in Russia + + +The enormous extent and diversified conditions of the various localities +of this empire would naturally suggest a variety of sport in hunting and +shooting, including perhaps something characteristic. In the use of dogs +of the chase especially is this suggestion borne out by the facts, and +it has been said that in no other country has the systematic working +together of fox-hounds and greyhounds been successfully carried out. + +Unfortunately, this sort of hunting is not now so general as prior to +the emancipation of the serfs in 1861. A modest kennel for such sport +consists of six to ten fox-hounds and four to six pairs of barzois,[1] +and naturally demands considerable attention. Moreover, to use it +requires the presence of at least one man with the fox-hounds and one +man for each pair or each three greyhounds. To have a sufficient number +of good huntsmen at his service was formerly a much less expensive +luxury to a proprietor than now, and to this fact is due the decline of +the combined kennel in Russia. + + [1] Barzoi--long-haired greyhound, wolf-hound, Russian greyhound. + +This hunt is more or less practised throughout the entire extent of the +Russian Empire. In the south, where the soil is not boggy, it is far +better sport than in Northern Russia, where there are such enormous +stretches of marshy woods and tundra. Curiously enough, nearly all the +game of these northern latitudes, including moose, wolves, hares, and +nearly all kinds of grouse and other birds, seem to be found in the +marshiest places--those almost impracticable to mounted hunters. + +Though the distances covered in hunting, and also in making neighborly +visits in Russia, are vast, often recalling our own broad Western life, +yet in few other respects are any similarities to be traced. This is +especially true of Russia north of the Moscow parallel; for in the south +the steppes have much in common with the prairies, though more +extensive, and the semi-nomadic Cossacks, in their mounted +peregrinations and in their pastoral life, have many traits in common +with real Americans. Nor is it true of the Caucasus, where it would seem +that the Creator, dissatisfied with the excess of the great plain,[2] +extending from the Finnish Gulf to the Black Sea, resolved to establish +a counterpoise, and so heaved up the gigantic Caucasus. There too are to +be found fine hunting and shooting, which merit description and which +offer good sport to mountain amateurs. + + [2] The Waldeir hills, extending east and west half-way between St. + Petersburg and Moscow, are the only exception. + +The annual hunt in the fall of 1893 in the governments of Tver and +Yaroslav, with the Gatchino kennels, will give a good idea of the +special sport of which I have spoken. It is imperative that these hounds +go to the hunt once a year for about a month, although for the most part +without their owner. The master of the hunt and his assistant, with +three or four guests, and oftentimes the proprietors of the lands where +the hounds happen to hunt, usually constitute the party. The hunt +changes locality nearly every year, but rarely does it go further from +home than on this occasion, about 450 versts from Gatchino. As a rule it +is not difficult to obtain from proprietors permission to hunt upon +their estates, and this is somewhat surprising to one who has seen the +freedom with which the fences are torn down and left unrepaired. It is +true that they are not of the strongest and best type, and that peasant +labor is still very cheap; yet such concessions to sport would rarely be +made in America. + +It was at Gatchino, on the 10th day of September, that the hunting train +was loaded with men, horses, dogs, provisions and wagons. The hunt +called for twenty-two cars in all, including one second-class passenger +car, in one end of which four of us made ourselves comfortable, while in +the other end servants found places. The weather was cold and rainy, +and, as our train traveled as a freight, we had two nights before us. It +was truly a picturesque and rare sight to see a train of twenty-two cars +loaded with the _personnel_, material and live stock of a huge kennel. +The fox-hounds, seventy in number, were driven down in perfect, close +order by the beaters to the cracks of the Russian hunting whip and +installed in their car, which barely offered them sufficient +accommodation. The greyhounds, three sorts, sixty-seven in number, were +brought down on leashes by threes, fours or fives, and loaded in two +cars. Sixty saddle and draft horses, with saddles, wagons and hunting +paraphernalia, were also loaded. Finally the forty-four gray and green +uniformed huntsmen, beaters, drivers and ourselves were ready, and the +motley train moved away amid the uttered and unuttered benedictions of +the families and relatives of the parting hunt. + +Our first destination was Peschalkino, in the government of Tver, near +the River Leet, a tributary of the Volga, not far from the site of the +first considerable check of the Mongolian advance about 1230. I mention +this fact in passing to give some idea of the _terrain_, because I think +that it is evident to anyone who has visited this region that the +difficulty of provisioning and of transportation in these marshes must +have offered a greater obstacle to an invading army than did the then +defenders of their country. + +We passed our time most agreeably in playing vint[3] and talking of +hunting incidents along the route. Many interesting things were told +about the habits of wolves and other game, and, as they were vouched for +by two thorough gentlemen and superb sportsmen, and were verified as far +as a month's experience in the field would permit, I feel authorized to +cite them as facts. + + [3] Vint--game of cards resembling whist, boaston and _preference_. + +The bear has been called in folk-lore the moujik's brother, and it must +be conceded that there are outward points of resemblance, especially +when each is clad in winter attire; moreover the moujik, when all is +snow and ice, fast approximates the hibernating qualities of the bear. +One strong point of difference is the accentuated segregative character +of the former, who always live in long cabin villages.[4] + + [4] The bear is caricatured in Russian publications as a humorous, + light-hearted, joking creature, conversing and making common sport + with the golden-hearted moujik, his so-called brother. + +But it is rather of the wolf's habits and domestic economy that I wish +to speak--of him who has always been the dreaded and accursed enemy of +the Russian peasant. In the question of government the wolf follows very +closely the system of the country, which is pre-eminently +patriarchal--the fundamental principle of the _mir_. A family of wolves +may vary in number from six to twenty, and contain two to four +generations, usually two or three, yet there is always one chief and one +wife--in other words, never more than one female with young ones. When +larger packs have been seen together it was probably the temporary +marshaling of their forces for some desperate raid or the preliminaries +of an anarchistic strike. The choruses of wolves and the special +training of the young for them are interesting characteristics. Upon +these choruses depends the decision of the hunter whether or not to make +his final attack upon the stronghold of the wolves; by them he can tell +with great precision the number in the family and the ages of the +different members. They are to wolf-hunters what tracks are to moose- and +bear-hunters--they serve to locate the game. When the family is at home +they occur with great regularity at twilight, midnight and dawn. + +In camp near Billings, Montana, in the fall of 1882, we heard nightly +about 12 o'clock the howling of a small pack of coyotes; but we supposed +that it was simply a "howling protest" against the railway train, +passing our camp at midnight, that had just reached that part of the +world. Possibly our coyotes have also howling choruses at regular +intervals, like the Russian wolves. + +There was such a fascination in listening to the wolves that we went out +several times solely for that purpose. The weirdness of the sound and +the desolateness of the surroundings produced peculiar sensations upon +the listener. To an enthusiastic lover of sport and nature these +pleasurable sensations might be well compared with the effect of the +Niebelungen songs upon an ardent Wagnerite. The old professional +huntsmen could tell just what members of the family and how many were +howling; they scarcely disagreed upon these points. + +These old hunters pretended to interpret the noisy assemblies of the +wolves as regards content or discontent, satisfaction or +dissatisfaction. + +Owing to the difficulty of securing wolves under most favorable +circumstances, especially old ones, it would be considered folly to make +a drive if the matinal howl had not been heard. But to make a successful +drive in a large marshy forest many beaters must be employed, and, as +they are gathered from far and near, considerable time is necessary to +collect them; therefore it is almost essential to know that the wolves +were "at home" at midnight as well as dawn. + +While in the vicinity of a certain wolf family whose habitat was an +enormous marshy wood, entirely impossible to mounted men, we were +compelled to await for forty-eight hours the return of the old ones, +father and mother. At times during this wait only the young ones, at +other times the young and the intermediate ones, would sing. Not hearing +the old ones, we inferred they were absent, and so they were--off on a +raid, during which they killed two peasant horses ten miles from their +stronghold. It was supposed that the wolves of intermediate age also +made excursions during this time, as indicated by the howlings, but not +to such great distances as the old ones. It was perfectly apparent, as +we listened one evening, that the old ones had placed the young ones +about a verst away and were making them answer independently. This +seemed too human for wolves. + +After one day and two nights of travel we arrived at the little station +of Peschalkino, on the Bologoe-Rybinsk Railway, not far from the +frontier between the two governments, Tver and Yaroslav, where we were +met by two officers of the guard, a Yellow Cuirassier and a +Preobiajensky, on leave of absence on their estates (Koy), sixteen +versts from the rail. They were brothers-in-law and keen sportsmen, who +became members of our party and who indicated the best localities for +game on their property, as well as on the adjoining estates. + +Peschalkino boasts a painted country tavern of two stories, the upper of +which, with side entrance, we occupied, using our own beds and bed +linen, table and table linen, cooking and kitchen utensils; in fact, it +was a hotel where we engaged the walled-in space and the brick cooking +stove. As to the huntsmen and the dogs, they were quartered in the +adjacent unpainted log-house peasant village--just such villages as are +seen all over Russia, in which a mud road, with plenty of mud, comprises +all there is of streets and avenues. After having arranged our temporary +domicile, and having carefully examined horses and dogs to see how they +had endured the journey, we made ready to accept a dinner invitation at +the country place of our new members. Horses were put to the brake, +called by the Russians _Amerikanka_ (American), and we set out for a +drive of sixteen versts over a mud road to enjoy the well-known Slav +hospitality so deeply engrafted in the Ponamaroff family. + +I said road, but in reality it scarcely merits the name, as it is +neither fenced nor limited in width other than by the sweet will of the +traveler. Special mention is made of this road because its counterparts +exist all over the empire. It is the usual road, and not the exception, +which is worse, as many persons have ample reasons for knowing. This +condition is easily explained by the scarcity of stone, the inherent +disregard of comfort, the poverty of the peasants, the absence of a +yeoman class, and the great expense that would be entailed upon the +landed proprietors, who live at enormous distances from each other. The +country in these and many other governments has been civilized many +generations, but so unfinished and primitive does it all seem that it +recalls many localities of our West, where civilization appeared but +yesterday, and where to-morrow it will be well in advance of these +provinces. The hand-flail, the wooden plow-share, the log cabin with +stable under the same roof, could have been seen here in the twelfth +century as they are at present. Thanks to the Moscow factories, the gala +attire of the peasant of to-day may possibly surpass in brilliancy of +color that of his remote ancestry, which was clad entirely from the home +loom. With the exception of the white brick churches, whose tall green +and white spires in the distance appear at intervals of eight to ten +versts, and of occasional painted window casings, there is nothing to +indicate that the colorings of time and nature are not preferable to +those of art. The predominating features of the landscape are the +windmills and the evenness of the grain-producing country, dotted here +and there by clumps of woods, called islands. The churches, too, are +conspicuous by their number, size, and beauty of architecture; +school-houses, by their absence. Prior to 1861 there must have been a +veritable mania here for church-building. The large and beautiful church +at Koy, as well as two other pretentious brick ones, were constructed on +his estates by the grandfather of our host. + +Arrived at Koy, we found a splendid country place, with brick buildings, +beautiful gardens, several hot-houses and other luxuries, all of which +appeared the more impressive by contrast. The reception and hospitality +accorded us at Koy--where we were highly entertained with singing, +dancing and cards until midnight--was as bounteous as the darkness and +rainfall which awaited us on the sixteen versts' drive over roadless +roads back to our quarter bivouac at Peschalkino. + +The following morning marked the beginning of our hunting. About 10 +o'clock all was in readiness. Every hunter[5] had been provided with a +leash, a knife and a whip; and, naturally, every huntsman with the two +latter. In order to increase the number of posts, some of the huntsmen +were also charged with leashes of greyhounds. I shall in the future use +the word greyhound to describe all the sight hounds, in +contradistinction to fox-hound; it includes barzois (Russian +greyhounds), greyhounds (English) and crosses between the two. The +barzois numbered about 75 per cent. of all the greyhounds, and were for +the most part somewhat less speedy than the real greyhounds, but better +adapted for wolf-hunting. They also have greater skill in taking hold, +and this, even in hare coursing, sometimes gives them advantage over +faster dogs. One of the most interesting features of the coursing was +the matching of Russian and English greyhounds. The leash system used in +the field offers practically the same fairness as is shown by dogs at +regular coursing matches. The leash is a black narrow leather thong +about fifteen feet long, with a loop at one end that passes over the +right shoulder and under the left arm. The long thong with a slit at the +end, forming the hand loop, is, when not in use, folded up like a lariat +or a driving rein, and is stuck under the knife belt. To use it, the end +is put through the loop-ring collars, which the greyhounds continually +wear, and is then held fast in the left hand until ready to slip the +hounds. Where the country is at all brushy, three dogs are the practical +limit of one leash, still for the most part only two are employed. It is +surprising to see how quickly the dogs learn the leash with mounted +huntsmen; two or three days are sufficient to teach them to remain at +the side of the horse and at a safe distance from his feet. Upon seeing +this use of the leash with two dogs each, I was curious to know why it +should be so; why it would not be more exciting to see half a dozen or +more hounds in hot pursuit racing against each other and having a common +goal, just as it is more exciting to see a horse race with a numerous +entry than merely with two competitors. This could have been remedied, +so I thought, by having horsemen go in pairs, or having several dogs +when possible on one leash. Practice showed the wisdom of the methods +actually employed. In the first place, it is fairer for the game; in the +second, it saves the dogs; and finally, it allows a greater territory to +be hunted over with the same number of dogs. + + [5] Hunter-gentleman, huntsman, man of the hunt--conventional terms. + +There are two ways of hunting foxes and hares, and, with certain +variations, wolves also. These are, by beating and driving with +fox-hounds, and by open driving with greyhounds alone. In the first case +a particular wood (island) is selected, and the fox-hounds with their +mounted huntsmen are sent to drive it in a certain direction. The +various leashes of greyhounds (barzois alone if wolves be expected) are +posted on the opposite side, at the edge of the wood or in the field, +and are loosed the second the game has shown its intention of clearing +the open space expressly selected for the leash. The mounted beaters +with the fox-hounds approach the thick woods of evergreens, cottonwood, +birch and undergrowth, and wait on its outskirts until a bugle signal +informs them that all the greyhound posts are ready. The fox-hounds +recognize the signal, and would start immediately were they not +terrorized by the black _nagaika_--a product of a country that has from +remotest times preferred the knout[6] to the gallows, and so is skilled +in its manufacture and use. At the word _go_ from the chief beater the +seventy fox-hounds, which have been huddled up as closely as the +encircling beaters could make them, rush into the woods. In a few +minutes, sometimes seconds, the music begins--and what music! I really +think there are too many musicians, for the voices not being classified, +there is no individuality, but simply a prolonged howl. For my part, I +prefer fewer hounds, where the individual voices may be distinguished. +It seemed to be a needless use of so many good dogs, for half the number +would drive as well; but they were out for exercise and training, and +they must have it. Subsequently the pack was divided into two, but this +was not necessitated by fatigue of the hounds, for we hunted on +alternate days with greyhounds alone. + + [6] Though not pertinent to the subject, I cannot refrain from + relating a curious comparison made to me by a very intelligent + Russian, aide-de-camp general of the late Emperor: "Just as the + scarcity of women in early American times caused them to be highly + appreciated and tenderly cared for, so the relative scarcity of men in + early Russia caused the Government to appreciate them and to preserve + them at all hazards. Logically follows the exalted position of woman + to-day in the United States and the absence of capital punishment in + Russia." + +One could well believe that foxes might remain a long time in the woods, +even when pursued by such noise; but it seemed to me that the hares[7] +would have passed the line of posts more quickly than they did. At the +suitable moment, when the game was seen, the nearest leash was slipped, +and when they seemed to be on the point of losing another and sometimes +a third was slipped. The poor fox-hounds were not allowed to leave the +woods; the moment the game appeared in the open space they were driven +back by the stiff riders with their cruel whips. The true fox-hound +blood showed itself, and to succeed in beating some of them off the +trail, especially the young ones, required most rigorous action on the +part of all. This seemed to me a prostitution of the good qualities of a +race carefully bred for centuries, and, while realizing the necessity of +the practice for that variety of hunt, I could never look upon it with +complaisance. + + [7] There are two varieties: the so-called white hare and the + so-called red hare. The former becomes white in winter, and weighs, + when full grown, ten pounds; the latter has a reddish gray coat which + does not change, and weighs about one and a half pounds less than the + other variety. The red hare frequents the fields less than does the + white. The foxes are the ordinary red ones. + +It is just this sort of hunt[8] for which the barzoi has been specially +bred, and which has developed in him a tremendous spring; at the same +time it has given him less endurance than the English greyhound. It was +highly interesting to follow the hounds with the beaters; but, owing to +the thickness of the woods and the absence of trails, it was far from +being an easy task either for horse or rider. To remain at a post with a +leash of hounds was hardly active or exciting enough for me--except when +driving wolves--especially when the hounds could be followed, or when +the open hunt could be enjoyed. In the second case the hunters and +huntsmen with leashes form a line with intervals of 100 to 150 yards and +march for versts straight across the country, cracking the terrible +_nagaika_ and uttering peculiar exciting yells that would start game on +a parade ground. After a few days I flattered myself that I could +manage my leash fairly and slip them passably well. To two or three of +the party leashes were not intrusted, either because they did not desire +them or for their want of experience in general with dogs and horses. To +handle a leash well requires experience and considerable care. To +prevent tangling in the horse's legs, especially at the moment the game +is sighted, requires that the hounds be held well in hand, and that they +be not slipped until both have sighted the game. I much prefer the open +hunt to the post system. There is more action, and in fact more sport, +whether it happens that one or several leashes be slipped for the same +animal. When it is not possible to know whose dogs have taken the game, +it belongs to him who arrived first, providing that he has slipped his +leash. + + [8] In Northern Russia, owing to the extensive forest, brush and marsh + lands, every effort was made to utilize the small open spaces or + clearings for the greyhounds, and this was the usual way of hunting; + while in Southern Russia, where steppes predominate, the open + hunt--_chasse a courre_--prevailed. This explains why the Crimean + barzoi also has more endurance than the now recognized type from the + north. + +So much for the foxes and hares, but the more interesting hunting of +wolves remains. Few people except wolf-hunters--and they are reluctant +to admit it--know how rarely old wolves are caught with hounds. All +admit the danger of taking an old one either by a dagger thrust or alive +from under[9] barzois, however good they be. There is always a +possibility that the dogs may loosen their hold or be thrown off just at +the critical moment. But the greatest difficulty consists in the +inability of the hounds to hold the wolf even when they have overtaken +him. When it is remembered that a full-grown wolf is nearly twice as +heavy as the average barzoi, and that pound for pound he is stronger, it +is clear that to overtake and hold him requires great speed and grit on +the part of a pair of hounds. + + [9] This is the Russian phrasing, and correctly describes the idea. + +A famous kennel,[10] which two years since caught forty-six wolves by +the combined system of hunting, took in that number but one old +wolf--that is, three years or more old. The same kennel last year caught +twenty-six without having a single old one in the number. We likewise +failed to include in our captures a single old wolf. I mention these +facts to correct the false impression that exists with us concerning the +barzois, as evidenced by the great disappointment when two years since a +pair, in one of the Western States, failed to kill outright a full-grown +timber wolf. At the field trials on wolves, which take place twice a +year at Colomiaghi, near Petersburg, immediately after the regular +field trials on hares, I have seen as many as five leashes slipped +before an old wolf could be taken, and then it was done only with the +greatest difficulty. In fact, as much skill depends upon the _borzatnik_ +(huntsman) as the dogs. Almost the very second the dogs take hold he +simply falls from his horse upon the wolf and endeavors to thrust the +unbreakable handle of his _nagaika_ between the jaws of the animal; he +then wraps the lash around the wolf's nose and head. If the hounds are +able to hold even a few seconds, the skilled _borzatnik_ has had +sufficient time, but there is danger even to the best. I saw an +experienced man get a thumb terribly lacerated while muzzling a wolf, +yet he succeeded, and in an incredibly short time. On another occasion, +even before the brace of hounds had taken firm neck or ear holds, I saw +a bold devil of a huntsman swing from his horse and in a twinkling lie +prone upon an old wolf's head. How this man, whose pluck I shall always +admire, was able to muzzle the brute without injury to himself, and with +inefficient support from his hounds, it is not easy to understand, +though I was within a few yards of the struggle. Such skill comes from +long experience, indifference to pain and, of course, pride in his +profession. + + [10] That of the Grand Duke Nicolas Nicolaievitch. + +Having hunted foxes and hares, and having been shooting as often as the +environs of Peschalkino and our time allowed, we changed our base to a +village twenty-two versts distant over the border in the government of +Yaroslav. It was a village like all others of this grain and flax +district, where the live stock and poultry shared the same roof with +their owners. A family of eleven wolves had been located about three +versts from it by a pair of huntsmen sent some days in advance; this +explained our arrival. In making this change, I do not now recall that +we saw a single house other than those of the peasant villages and the +churches. I fancy that in the course of time these peasants may have +more enlightenment, a greater ownership in the land, and may possibly +form a yeoman class. At the present the change, slow as it is, seems to +point in that direction. With their limited possessions, they are happy +and devoted subjects. The total of the interior decorations of every +house consists of icons, of cheap colored pictures of the imperial +family and of samovars. In our lodgings, the house of the village +_starost_, the three icons consumed a great part of the wall surface, +and were burdened with decorations of various colored papers. No one has +ever touched upon peasant life in Russia without mentioning the enormous +brick stove (_lezanka_[11]); and having on various hunts profited by +them, I mean to say a word in behalf of their advantages. Even as early +as the middle of September the cold continuous rains cause the gentle +warmth of the _lezanka_ to be cordially appreciated. On it and in its +vicinity all temperatures may be found. Its top offers a fine place for +keeping guns, ammunition and various articles free from moisture, and +for drying boots;[12] while the horizontal abutments constitute benches +well adapted to thawing out a chilled marrow, or a sleeping place for +those that like that sort of thing. A generous space is also allowed for +cooking purposes. In point of architecture there is nothing that can be +claimed for it but stability; excepting the interior upper surface of +the oven, there is not a single curve to break its right lines. It +harmonizes with the surroundings, and in a word answers all the +requirements of the owner as well as of the hunter, who always +preserves a warm remembrance of it. + + [11] _Lezanka_ means something used for lying on. + + [12] Hot oats poured into the boots were also used for drying them. + +The wolves were located in a large marshy wood and, from information of +the scouts based on the midnight and dawn choruses, they were reported +"at home." Accordingly we prepared for our visit with the greatest +precautions. When within a verst of the proposed curved line upon which +we were to take our stands with barzois, all dismounted and proceeded +through the marsh on foot, making as little noise as possible. The +silence was occasionally broken by the efforts of the barzois to slip +themselves after a cur belonging to one of the peasant beaters, that +insisted upon seeing the sport at the most aggravating distance for a +sight hound. It was finally decided to slip one good barzoi that, it was +supposed, could send the vexatious animal to another hunting ground; but +the cur, fortunately for himself, suddenly disappeared and did not show +himself again. + +After wading a mile in the marshy bog, we were at the beginning of the +line of combat--if there was to be any. The posts along this line had +been indicated by the chief huntsman by blazing the small pine trees or +by hanging a heap of moss on them. The nine posts were established in +silence along the arc of a circle at distances from each other of about +150 yards. My post was number four from the beginning. In rear of it and +of the adjoining numbers a strong high cord fence was put up, because it +was supposed that near this part of the line the old wolves would pass, +and that the barzois might not be able to stop them. The existence of +such fencing material as part of the outfit of a wolf-hunter is strong +evidence of his estimate of a wolf's strength--it speaks pages. The +fence was concealed as much as possible, so that the wolf with barzois +at his heels might not see it. The huntsmen stationed there to welcome +him on his arrival were provided with fork-ended poles, intended to hold +him by the neck to the ground until he was gagged and muzzled, or until +he had received a fatal dagger thrust. + +While we were forming the ambuscade--defensive line--the regular +beaters, with 200 peasant men and women, and the fox-hounds, were +forming the attack. + +Everything seemed favorable except the incessant cold rain and wind. In +our zeal to guard the usual crossings of the wolves, we ignored the +direction of the wind, which the wolves, however, cleverly profited by. +It could not have been very long after the hounds were let go before +they fell upon the entire family of wolves, which they at once +separated. The shouts and screams of the peasants, mingled with the +noises of the several packs of hounds, held us in excited attention. Now +and then this or that part of the pack would approach the line, and, +returning, pass out of hearing in the extensive woods. The game had +approached within scenting distance, and, in spite of the howling in the +rear, had returned to depart by the right or left flank of the beaters. +As the barking of the hounds came near the line, the holders of the +barzois, momentarily hoping to see a wolf or wolves, waited in almost +breathless expectancy. Each one was prepared with a knife to rush upon +an old wolf to support his pair; but unfortunately only two wolves came +to our line, and they were not two years old. They were taken at the +extreme left flank, so far away that I could not even see the killing. I +was disappointed, and felt that a great mistake had been made in not +paying sufficient attention to the direction of the wind. Where is the +hunter who has not had his full share of disappointments when all +prospects seemed favorable? As often happens, it was the persons +occupying the least favorable places who had bagged the game. They said +that in one case the barzois had held the wolf splendidly until the +fatal thrust; but that in the other case it had been necessary to slip a +second pair before it could be taken. These young wolves were +considerably larger than old coyotes. + +[Illustration: FOXHOUNDS OF THE IMPERIAL KENNELS.] + +So great was the forest hunted that for nearly two hours we had occupied +our posts listening to the spasmodic trailing of the hounds and the +yelling of the peasants. Finally all the beaters and peasants reached +our line, and the drive was over, with only two wolves taken from the +family of eleven. Shivering with cold and thoroughly drenched, we +returned in haste to shelter and dry clothes. + +The following morning we set out on our return to Peschalkino, mounted, +with the barzois, while the fox-hounds were driven along the road. We +marched straight across the country in a very thin skirmish line, +regardless of fences, which were broken down and left to the owners to +be repaired. By the time we had reached our destination, we had enjoyed +some good sport and had taken several hares. The following morning the +master of the imperial hunt, who had been kept at his estates near +Moscow by illness in his family, arrived, fetching with him his horses +and a number of his own hounds. We continued our hunting a number of +days longer in that vicinity, both with and without fox-hounds, with +varying success. Every day or two we also indulged in shooting for +ptarmigan, black cocks, partridges, woodcocks and two kinds of +snipe--all of which prefer the most fatiguing marshes. + +One day our scouts arrived from Philipovo, twenty-six versts off, to +report that another family of wolves, numbering about sixteen, had been +located. The _Amerikanka_ was sent in advance to Orodinatovo, whither we +went by rail at a very early hour. This same rainy and cold autumnal +landscape would be intolerable were it not brightened here and there by +the red shirts and brilliant headkerchiefs of the peasants, the noise of +the flail on the dirt-floor sheds and the ever-alluring attractions of +the hunt. + +During this short railway journey, and on the ride to Philipovo, I could +not restrain certain reflections upon the life of the people and of the +proprietors of this country. It seemed on this morning that three +conditions were necessary to render a permanent habitation here +endurable: neighbors, roads and a change of latitude; of the first two +there are almost none, of latitude there is far too much. To be born in +a country excuses its defects, and that alone is sufficient to account +for the continuance of people under even worse conditions than those of +these governments. It is true that the soil here does not produce fruit +and vegetables like the Crimean coast, and that it does not, like the +black belt, "laugh with a harvest when tickled with a hoe"; yet it +produces, under the present system of cultivation, rye and flax +sufficient to feed, clothe and pay taxes. What more could a peasant +desire? With these provided his happiness is secured; how can he be +called poor? Without questioning this defense, which has been made many +times in his behalf, I would simply say that he is not poor as long as a +famine or plague of some sort does not arrive--and then proceed with our +journey. + +From Orodinatovo to Philipovo is only ten versts, but over roads still +less worthy of the name than the others already traveled. The +_Amerikanka_ was drawn by four horses abreast. The road in places +follows the River Leet, on which Philipovo is situated. We had expected +to proceed immediately to hunt the wolves, and nearly 300 peasant men +and women had been engaged to aid the fox-hounds as beaters. They had +been assembled from far and near, and were congregated in the only +street of Philipovo, in front of our future quarters, to await our +arrival. What a motley assembly, what brilliancy of coloring! All were +armed with sticks, and carried bags or cloths containing their rations +of rye bread swung from the shoulders, or around the neck and over the +back. How many pairs of boots were hung over the shoulders? Was it +really the custom to wear boots on the shoulders? In any case it was _de +rigueur_ that each one show that he or she possessed such a luxury as a +good pair of high top boots; but it was not a luxury to be abused or +recklessly worn out. Their system of foot-gear has its advantages in +that the same pair may be used by several members of a family, male and +female alike. + +It was not a pleasure for us to hear that the wolves had been at home at +twilight and midnight, but were not there at dawn; much less comforting +was this news to those peasants living at great distances who had no +place near to pass the night. The same information was imparted the +following day and the day following, until it began to appear doubtful +whether we could longer delay in order to try for this very migratory +pack. + +Our chances of killing old wolves depended largely upon this drive, for +it was doubtful whether we would make an attack upon the third family, +two days distant from our quarters. Every possible precaution was taken +to make it a success. I was, however, impressed with the fact that the +most experienced members of the hunting party were the least sanguine +about the old wolves. + +Some one remarked that my hunting knife, with a six-inch blade, was +rather short, and asked if I meant to try and take an old wolf. My reply +was in the affirmative, for my intentions at that stage were to try +anything in the form of a wolf. At this moment one of the land +proprietors, who had joined our party, offered to exchange knives with +me, saying that he had not the slightest intention of attacking a wolf +older than two years, and that my knife was sufficient for that. I +accepted his offer. + +At a very early hour on this cold rainy autumnal morning we set out on +our way to the marshy haunts of the game. Our party had just been +reinforced by the arrival of the commander of the Empress's Chevalier +Guard regiment, an ardent sportsman, with his dogs. All the available +fox-hounds, sixty in number, were brought out, and the 300 peasants +counted off. The latter were keen, not only because a certain part of +them had sportsmanlike inclinations, but also because each one received +thirty copecks for participation in the drive. Besides this, they were +interested in the extermination of beasts that were living upon their +live stock. + +The picture at the start was more than worthy of the results of the day, +and it remains fresh in my mind. The greater portion of the peasants +were taken in charge by the chief beater, with the hounds, while the +others followed along with us and the barzois. Silence was enforced upon +all. The line of posts was established as before, except that more care +was exercised. Each principal post, where three barzois were held on +leash, was strengthened by a man with a gun loaded with buckshot. The +latter had instructions not to fire upon a wolf younger than two years, +and not even upon an older one, until it was manifest that the barzois +and their holder were unequal to the task. + +My post was a good one, and my three dogs were apparently keen for +anything. At the slightest noise they were ready to drag me off my feet +through the marsh. Thanks to the _nagaika_, I was able to keep them in +hand. One of the trio was well known for his grit in attacking wolves, +the second was considered fair, while the third, a most promising +two-year-old, was on his first wolf-hunt. Supported by these three dogs, +the long knife of the gentleman looking for young wolves and the yellow +cuirassier officer with his shotgun, I longed for some beast that would +give a struggle. The peasants accompanying us were posted out on each +flank of our line, extending it until the extremities must have been +separated by nearly two miles. + +The signal was given, and hunters, peasants and hounds rushed into the +woods. Almost instantly we heard the screams and yells of the nearest +peasants, and in a short time the faint barking of the fox-hounds. As +the sounds became more audible, it was evident that the hounds had split +into three packs--conclusive that there were at least three wolves. My +chances were improving, and I was arranging my dogs most carefully, that +they might be slipped evenly. My knife, too, was within convenient +grasp, and the fox-hounds were pointing directly to me. Beastly luck! I +saw my neighbor, the hunter of young wolves, slip his barzois, and like +a flash they shot through the small pine trees, splashing as they went. +From my point of view they had fallen upon an animal that strongly +resembled one of themselves. In reality it was a yearling wolf, but he +was making it interesting for the barzois as well as for all who +witnessed the sight. The struggle did not last long, for soon two of the +barzois had fastened their long teeth in him--one at the base of the +ear, the other in the throat. Their holder hastened to the struggle, +about 100 yards from his post, and with my knife gave the wolf the _coup +de grace_. His dogs had first sighted the game, and therefore had the +priority of right to the chase. So long as the game was in no danger of +escaping no neighboring dogs should be slipped. His third barzoi, on +trial for qualifications as a wolf-hound, did not render the least aid. + +Part of the fox-hounds were still running, and there was yet chance that +my excited dogs might have their turn. We waited impatiently until all +sounds had died away and until the beaters had reached our line, when +further indulgence of hope was useless. Besides the above, the +fox-hounds had caught and killed a yearling in the woods; and Colonel +Dietz had taken with his celebrated Malodiets, aided by another dog, a +two-year-old. What had become of the other wolves and where were most of +the hounds? Without waiting to solve these problems, we collected what +we could of our outfit and returned to Philipovo, leaving the task of +finding the dogs to the whippers-in. The whys and wherefores of the hunt +were thoroughly discussed at dinner, and it was agreed that most of the +wolves had passed to the rear between the beaters. It was found out that +the peasants, when a short distance in the woods, had through fear +formed into squads instead of going singly or in pairs. This did not, +however, diminish the disappointment at not taking at least one of the +old ones. + +The result of this drive logically brought up the question of the best +way to drive game. In certain districts of Poland deer are driven from +the line of posts, and the same can be said of successful moose-hunts of +Northern Russia. Perhaps that way may also be better for wolves. + +After careful consideration of the hunting situation, we were unanimous +in preferring hare and fox coursing with both fox-hounds and barzois, or +with the latter alone, at discretion, to the uncertainty of +wolf-hunting; so we decided to change our locality. Accordingly the +following day we proceeded in the _Amerikanka_ to the town of Koy, +twenty-five versts distant. We arrived about noon, and were quartered in +a vacant house in the large yard of Madam Ponamaroff. Our retinue of +huntsmen, dogs, horses, ambulance and wagons arrived an hour later. + +There was no more wolf-hunting. + +_Henry T. Allen._ + + + + +A Bear-Hunt in the Sierras + + +A few years ago, a friend and I were cruising for our amusement in +California, with outfit of our own, consisting of three pack horses, two +saddle animals, tent and camp furnishings. We had started from Los +Angeles; had explored various out-of-the-way passes and valleys in the +San Bernardino and San Rafael Mountains, taking care the while to keep +our camp supplied with game; had killed deer and exceptionally fine +antelope in the hills adjoining the Mojave Desert; had crossed the San +Joaquin Valley and visited the Yosemite, where the good fortune of +finding the Half Dome, with the Anderson rope, carried away by ice, gave +us the opportunity for one delicious climb in replacing it. + +Returning to Fresno, we had sold our ponies and ended our five months' +jaunt. My friend had gone East, and I had accepted the invitation of a +member of the Union Club in San Francisco, to whom I bore a letter of +introduction, to accompany him upon a bear-hunt in the Sierras. He +explained to me that the limited extent of his ranch in the San Joaquin +Valley--a meager and restricted demesne of only 7,000 acres, consisting +of splendid pasturage and arable land--made it necessary for the sheep +to look elsewhere than at home for sustenance during the summer months. + +Many of the great ranches in the valley possessed prescriptive rights to +pasturage over vast tracts in the high Sierras. These, although not +recognized by the law, were at least ignored, and were sanctioned by +custom. The land belonged to nobody--that is, it belonged to Uncle Sam, +which, so far as a Texas or California stockman was concerned, amounted +to exactly the same thing. The owner of such a right to pasturage +zealously maintained his claim; and if, for any reason, he could not use +it himself during a particular season, he formally gave his consent to +some one else to enjoy the privilege in his stead. It was considered a +gross violation of etiquette for a stockman to trespass upon that +portion of the forest habitually used by other sheep. Such intrusions +did occur, particularly upon the part of Mexicans with small +flocks--"tramp sheep" they were called; but when the intruder was shot, +small sympathy accompanied him to the grave, and the deep damnation of +his taking off, in more senses than one, served as a salutary reminder +to other gentlemen with discourteous tendencies to maraud. The +consequence of all this was that a big ranchman spoke of his summer +range with the same sense of proprietorship and security of possession +as of his alfalfa field or pits of ensilage. + +We arrived at my friend's ranch in the evening, and the next morning but +one were in the saddle and on our way--it having been arranged that the +younger brother of my host was to take his place upon the hunt. As we +were to arrive at the sheep-herders' camps on the fourth day from the +ranch, no elaborate preparations were necessary; we took but a single +animal for the pack, besides the horses we rode. A Mexican herder, +Leonard, was the third member of the party--cook, packer, guide, general +storehouse of information and jest. The first night we camped in the +foot hills, in a grove of big-cone pines, curiously enough in the exact +place where, a fortnight before, my friend Proctor and I had pitched our +tent on the way from the Yosemite to Fresno, and which we had left +without the slightest expectation, on the part of either, of ever seeing +again. + +Little of the journey to the mountains remains in my memory. We passed a +great timber chute of astonishing length--twenty or forty miles, or +something of the sort--down which timber is floated from the great pine +and spruce forests to the railroad, with little trouble and at slight +expense; the water being of commercial value for purposes of irrigation +during the summer, and bringing a good price after it has fulfilled its +special function as carrier. The drinking water for my friend's ranch +was taken from this, a supply being drawn in the cool of the morning +sufficient to last throughout the day, and most grateful we found it +during sultry August days in a part of the country where ice is not to +be procured. + +Each of the four days of our journey we were climbing higher among the +mountains, into a thinner and more invigorating atmosphere. The days +were hot so long as one remained exposed to the sun, but the shadows +were cool and the nights most refreshing. Upon the last morning of our +journey, crossing a mountain creek, my attention was called to a rude +bridge, where had occurred a battle of the ranchmen upon the occasion of +an attempted entry by a "tramp" owner with his flock into somebody's +"summer range." The intruder was killed, and I believe in this +particular instance the possessor of the unwritten right of exclusive +pasturage upon Government land found the laws of California awkward to +deal with; not so deadly, it may be, as a six-shooter, but expensive and +discouraging to quiet pastoral methods. + +Another point of interest was Rattlesnake Rock, which we rounded upon +the trail. This was a spot peculiarly sheltered and favored by the +winds, the warmest corner that snakes wot of, and here they assemble for +their winter's sleep. In the mild days of early spring, when the rest of +the world is still frozen and forbidden, this one little nook, catching +all the sun, is thawed and genial. From beneath the ledge crawl forth +into the warmth great store of rattlers, big and little. Coming out from +the Yosemite Valley, I had killed one quite four feet in length and of +exactly the same girth as my wrist, which I was assured was not at all +an extraordinary size for them "in these parts." Near this rock, in an +unfeeling manner, I shot the head off another big one, and he will no +longer attend the yearly meeting of his kind at Rattlesnake Rock. + +Upon this stage of our journey we met no one, yet the noble forest of +spruce through which we were traveling bore only too plainly the signs +of man's presence in the past, and of his injurious disregard of the +future. Everywhere were the traces of fire. The trees of the Sierras, at +the elevation at which we were, an altitude of 8,000 or 10,000 feet, +grow more sparsely than in any forest to which we are accustomed in the +East. Their dry and unimpeded spaces seem like heaven to the hunter +familiar only with the tangled and perplexing undergrowth of the "North +Woods," where the midday shadow, the thick underbrush, the uneven and +wet, mossy surface, except upon some remote hardwood ridge, are the +unvarying characteristics. In the Rocky Mountains, and that part of the +Sierras with which I am familiar, it is quite different. In California +the trees do not crowd and jostle one another, but have regard for the +sacredness of the person so far as the mutual relation of one and all +are concerned. Broad patches of sunshine beneath the trees encourage the +growth of rich grasses, none so sweet as those which are found at a +great altitude; and, although the prevailing tint under foot is that of +the reddish earth, tufts of succulent feed abound sufficient to repay +the sheep for cruising everywhere, while occasional glades furnish the +most delicious and abundant pasturage. As in every forest, the processes +of nature are slow--it takes a long time for the dead past to bury its +dead. On every side lie fallen trees; and a generation of rain and snow, +sunshine and wind and tempest, must elapse before these are rotted away, +and by the enrichment of the soil can furnish nourishment and life to +their progeny and successors. Naturally these trees are a hindrance and +annoyance to the sheep herder; they separate his flock and greatly +increase his labors. The land is not even his master's, whose one idea +is temporary gain, hence there is no restraining influence whatever for +their preservation. "So long as it lasts my lifetime, what matter?" is +the prevailing sentiment. + +As there is no rain during the summer months, the fallen trees become +perfectly dry; a handful of lighted twigs is all that is required to set +fire to them, when they blaze or smoulder until consumed. Owing to the +absence of underbrush, forest fires are far less common than would be +expected; but, of course, the soil is impoverished by the deprivation of +its natural enrichment, the decaying wood, and the centuries to come +will there, as well nigh everywhere in our country, point the finger of +scorn at our spendthrift forestry. + +Although this is the chief economic injury, the beauty of the woods is +sadly marred; all large game is frightened away, except the bear, which +is half human and half hog in his methods, and minds it not at all--in +fact, finds the presence of man perfectly intelligible, and his fat +flocks a substantial addition to his own bill of fare. Leonard pointed +out to us a certain mountain shrub, a rank poison to sheep. Every +cluster of it in his range is known to the herder, who keeps the sheep +in his charge at a safe distance. This is one of his important duties; +for, if a sheep eats of this plant, he is a "goner." + +In one particular the pasturage of the high Sierras has greatly +suffered. The ranchmen naturally wish to get their sheep off the home +range as early in the spring as possible--in fact, the last month there +is one of starvation. The new crops have not yet grown, nothing remains +standing of the old but a few dead stalks of weeds, the supply of +alfalfa cut the year before has long since been exhausted, and, +metaphorically speaking, the sheep and cattle have to dine, as the +hungry Indian is said to do, by tightening his belt half a dozen holes +and thinking of what he had to eat week before last. Only the weaklings +die, however; the others become lean and restless, and as eager as their +masters to start for the mountains. The journey supplies them with scant +pickings, just enough to keep body and soul together, but morally it is +a relief from the monotony of starvation at home, and they work their +way stubbornly and expectantly up the mountains and into the forest as +soon as the sun permits and anything has grown for them to eat. The +consequence of this close grazing is that certain species of the grasses +upon which they feed are never allowed to come to flower and mature +their seed; hence those with a delicate root, the more strictly annual +varieties, which rely upon seed for perpetuation of the plant, have a +hard time of it. Where the sheep range, the wild timothy, for example--a +dwarf variety and an excellent, sweet grass--has almost disappeared, +although formerly it grew in abundance. + +The forest glades through which we passed had the appearance of a +closely-cropped pasture, as different as possible from the profusion of +tall grasses and beautiful flowering plants which grow in similar +openings untroubled by sheep. So far as the grasses are concerned--or +"grass," by which, I take it, is ordinarily designated the foliage of +the plant--I doubt if it is molested to any great extent by deer. Their +diet is mainly the tender leaves of plants--"weeds" to the unscientific +person. The heads of wild oats and of a few of the grasses might prove +sufficiently sweet and tempting to arrest their fancy; but as for +grazing, as sheep or cattle do, it is not their habit. When deer shall +have come to trudge up hill in the plodding gait of the domestic beasts, +and shall have abandoned their present method of ascending by a series +of splendid springing leaps and bounds, the very embodiment of vigor and +of wild activity, time enough then for them to take to munching grass, +the sustenance of the harmless, necessary cow. At present they are most +fastidious in their food, and select only the choicest, tenderest tips +and sweetest tufts of herbage, picking them here and there, wandering +and meditating as they eat. I will not say that they never touch grass, +for I have seen deer feeding among cattle in the open, but it is not by +any means the chief article of their diet, and when they partake of it +under such circumstances, it is more as a gratification of their social +instincts, I think, than from any particular love of the food itself. + +A little before noon upon the fourth day, we arrived at one of the sheep +camps, to which we had been directed by a stray herd, and where we were +to find the foreman of the sheep gang. At that hour of the day there +were naturally in camp but a few men. The cook was there, of course. His +functions were simple enough--to make bread, tea, and boil mutton, or +bake it in a Mexican oven beneath the coals. With him was the chief +herder and a half-witted Portuguese, who, upon the day following, in the +plenitude of his zeal and mental deficiency, insisted upon offering +himself as live bait for a grizzly, as will be narrated. + +During the afternoon I strolled further up the mountain with my rifle, +in the hope of a shot at a stray deer, and to have a look at the lay of +the land. Bear tracks I saw and a little deer sign also, but it was too +early in the day regularly to hunt. All nature nodded in the dozy glare +of the August afternoon, and after the hot journey in the saddle I found +a siesta under the clean spruce trees refreshing. Toward sunset I awoke +to find a pine martin in a tree across the gulch reconnoitering, and +evidently turning over in his mind the probabilities whether the big +creature curled up on the hillside "forninst" him were of the cast of +hunter or hunted. I soon brought him out of that, and upon my return to +camp the hide was graciously accepted by the chief herder, who converted +the head of it into a tobacco pouch with neatness and dispatch. At the +evening meal there were good-natured references to _chile con +oso_--bear's meat cooked with red peppers--regret expressed that the +camp's larder could at present afford none, and expressions of +confidence that this delicacy would soon be set before us--all most +politely and comfortably insinuated. They had the gratification of their +desire; it was on the next day but one. + +That night there was a great jabbering of bad Spanish around the +camp-fire. Had this been the rendezvous of Sicilian brigands, it +doubtless would have had a slightly more picturesque appearance, but the +difference would have been only of degree, not at all of kind. The +absence of rain made tents unnecessary. Piles of bedding, of cooking and +riding equipment, defined the encampment. Around the fire a dozen +Mexicans clustered, of whom, except the chief herder and Leonard, not +one spoke English. They wore the broad hats of their race, and were +arrayed for protection against the cool night winds of the Sierras in +old and shabby cloaks, some of which had been originally bright in +color, but now were subdued by age and dirt into comfortable harmony +with the quiet tones of the mountain and the forest. Old quilts and +sheepskins carpeted a small space where we had been invited to seat +ourselves upon our arrival. Then, as throughout our stay, every possible +mark of hospitality was shown us--a delicious, faint survival of +Castilian courtesy. + +Long after I had turned in, somewhere in the dead vast and middle of the +night, I was aroused by the sound of scurry and scampering among the +bunch of sheep which was rounded up near the camp. Experience has +taught these creatures to efface themselves at night, and they are only +too glad to sleep quietly, as near as possible to humans, with no +disposition to wander after dark. They realize their danger from bears, +yet the protection which a Mexican affords is a purely imaginary thing, +as unsubstantial as the baseless fabric of a vision, of as little real +substance for the protection of the flock as the dream of mutton stew +and fat bear, by no means a baseless fabric, which engrosses the +sleeping shepherd, body and mind. The disturbance upon this occasion +soon subsided. One and another of the shepherds sleepily moved in his +blankets--perhaps swore to himself a hurried prayer or two--but not one +of them spoke aloud or indicated the slightest intention of +investigating the cause of the commotion. Only too well they and the +sheep knew what it signified. Quiet reigned again, and, attaching no +importance to the incident, I was promptly asleep. + +In the morning I learned that the disturbing cause had been the charge +of a grizzly into the flock within a stone's throw of us, a sound too +familiar to occasion comment at the time. There were the tracks, to +leeward of the sheep, of a she grizzly and two cubs. Their approach had +been without a sound; not the snap of a twig, or the faintest footfall, +had given any signal of their presence. The mother had critically +overhauled the flock in her mind from a slight rise of ground, on a +level with their backs or slightly higher, and made deliberate choice of +a fat wether, having a discriminating eye, and being too good a judge of +sheep flesh to take any but such as are in prime condition. A single +quick rush and she has secured her victim, in an instant, before the +rest are fairly upon their feet, and is off, carrying the sheep in her +mouth as easily as a cat would her kitten, her delighted cubs trotting +behind. Every two or three nights this occurrence was repeated, with no +interference upon the part of the Mexicans. "What recks it them?" "The +hungry sheep look up and are not fed." On the contrary, the bears are. +As for the Mexicans, they have "lost no bear!" To have seen the intruder +would have been only a gratuitous anxiety, since nothing in the world +would have tempted them to fire at it. Should they risk life and limb +for a sheep? and that the _patron's_, who had so many! It was not their +quarrel! The charge of the grizzly was a thing as much to be accepted as +an incident of the Sierras as the thunderbolt--equally dangerous to him +who should interfere as the lightning stroke to one daring to interpose +his rifle between the angry heavens and the fore-doomed tree. + +We may feel sure that the lesson is not lost upon the cubs. They are +taught energy, sagacity, craft in maturing their plans, courage and +promptness in their execution. They are taught reverence for the ursine +genius, unbounded admiration for their mother's leadership and +steadiness of nerve, at the same time that they are taught contempt for +the stupidity of sheep and the pusillanimity of humans. It may be that +an apologist for the latter might find a word to mitigate their too +severe sentence. A she grizzly of the Sierras, at night, with hungry +cubs to feed, is not an altogether pleasant thing to face when +infuriated by wounds, none of which may be bad enough to cripple her, +yet combined are amply sufficient to make her pretty cross and +dangerous. The Mexican is a poor shot, but what can you expect? His +vocation is a humble one. Were he of more positive and determined +temperament, he would be a _vaquero_ of the plains, or _boyero_ +(_Anglice_ "bull-whacker") on the Santa Fe trail or down in old Mexico; +and not the dry nurse of these "woolly idiots," in whose race, for +innumerable centuries, man has elaborately cultivated stupidity, and, by +systematic process of artificial selection, has faithfully eliminated +every sign of insubordination and the last trace of individuality of +temperament, and that which in our race is called character. No +native-born white man in this country can be induced to follow, for any +length of time, the vocation of shepherd. The deadly monotony of the +occupation drives him either to imbecility or desperation. It is well +known that men who habitually care for any animal come in time to +resemble him. Stable boys, bred to the vocation of groom, become +horse-faced and equine of disposition, eventually they wheeze and +whistle like a curry-comb. Cowboys partake of the scatter-brained +recklessness of the Texas steer which they tend. No one can admit dogs +to be daily and familiar companions without absorbing into his system +somewhat of their sense of humor and of their faithfulness. The +lion-tamer, who enters unscathed the den of his charge, must share the +robustious courage and determination of the beast with which he +associates. The rat-catcher, whether he be ferret or man, partakes of +the fierce slyness of the game he follows; and I remember that, years +ago, before I ever heard mention of this peculiarity of resemblance, I +could detect, plainly writ in the face of the attendant of "Mr. +Crowley," when he was kept in the old arsenal building in Central Park, +the reflected temperament and animalism of the poor, indolent, captive +chimpanzee, whose fellow and all too sympathetic friend he had made +himself. Naturalists are well aware of this phenomenon. + +If this be so, and stupidity catching, what more potent influence of +fatty degeneration of the intellect could there be than the +uninterrupted society of sheep, with nothing in the world to think of +except their care--without even the stimulating influence of gain to +redeem the paralyzing service. The sheep are not their own, and if the +bears eat them up the keepers do not feel the stimulating ache in their +money-pocket that might tempt them, however feebly, to resist +aggression. Moreover, as a rule, they are wretchedly armed. Each of +these men carried an old six-shooter of an outlandish and forgotten +pattern, good enough to try a chance shot at another Mexican with, but +only a source of more or less pleasurable titillation to a bear, were +one ever to be discharged at him, and about as effective as pelting an +alligator with strawberries. If the last stage of misery for a horse be +to drag, along its rigid road of stone and iron, the city horse-car with +its thankless freight of fares, the corresponding degradation of the +"gun" is to rest upon the hip of a degenerate sheep-herder, half +Spaniard, half Indian and half coyote. Any self-respecting weapon +reduced to such straits would be conscious of its low estate; its +magazine would revolve in a creaky, half-hearted, reluctant fashion; it +would doubtless fire an apologetic bullet; its report would be something +between "scat" and "beg your pardon," to which a bear would pay but +slight heed. Others of the Mexicans were armed with old muskets, +somewhat rusty and ramshackly, but with a furry longitudinal perforation +throughout their length, along which--it could not creditably be called +a bore--a ball could after a fashion, if you gave it time enough, be +propelled. Leonard was exceptionally fortunate in this respect; he +carried an old rim-fire .44-40 Winchester, the action of which +occasionally worked and occasionally did not. Comparatively speaking, he +was rather a swell in the matter of firearms; but if one should put his +trust in him in case of emergency as a sheet anchor to windward, there +was always the remote possibility, were the strain too intense, that he +might not be a dependence of absolute security. + +The afternoon of this day, much against my real inclination, but in +accordance with the prevailing desire, we started out, the whole rabble +of us, to follow the she grizzly's trail. It could not be called a +"still-hunt," for the reason that six men hunting in a pack are never +still; however, it did not matter. We found in a neighboring gulch bits +of the fleece, bones and hides of three sheep, and the sufficiently +plain evidence, upon the trampled and bloody ground, of recent feasts. +Yet this was the banqueting hall and not the children's nursery. A bear +thinks nothing of a little stroll of ten miles or so before or after +eating. It aids digestion, and in case of a female, as this was, wards +off an attack of the nerves. Particularly a bear with cubs would put at +least that distance between herself and hunters. Moreover they are so +clever that I doubt not this one knew already by scent and subtle +process of ratiocination how many of us there were in camp, where we +were from, the color of our hair, what sort of rifles we carried, their +caliber, how heavy a bullet and how many grains of powder they fired. +This is said in the light of after events and of further experience. + +That afternoon, in our unjustifiably sanguine forecast, we had hopes of +finding this particular bear. The half-witted "Portugee," of whom I have +spoken, showed especial zeal in the presence of the _patron_, and +insisted, in spite of mild and repeated caution, in going ahead and +scrupulously investigating every possible ambuscade where there was the +remotest chance of finding the bear, or, what was much more likely, of +the bear finding him. In consideration of the fact that this was a she +one which we were after, that she was proud and well fed, and on the +lookout for pursuit, had the "Portugee" found her, she would in all +probability have received his visit with cordial warmth. Not speaking +his tongue fluently, I was unable to express my solicitude except by +signs and admonitory gestures. The rest of the party apparently seemed +to think that, while the bear was interested and occupied with him, a +good opportunity would be offered for getting in a shot; and as +Portuguese were a drug in the market in that part of California, and +grizzly bears, dead, a great rarity, he was suffered to contribute his +mite to the success of _la chasse_, and all went merrily. Not a thicket +or a den did he leave unprobed. + +An hour or two were spent in beating up the gulch to its head. Then a +barren mountain side presented itself, three or four miles of it, with +no shelter. Leonard ran the trail here like a dog, literally ran it, and +the pack of hunters tailed behind him for a half or three-quarters of a +mile. A bit before sundown we were at the edge of the chaparral--a +tangle of bushes and quaking asp--rather a baddish place in which to +stumble upon her serene highness. However, my companions did me the +honor to promote me to the "Portugee's" place and function. With rifle +across the crook of arm, we stole as silently as might be--the United +States army would have made more noise--into the jungle. Sunset overtook +us up on the far edge, with a stretch of open forest in sight, and, I +doubt not, with Madam Bruin and her cubs miles ahead in some +inaccessible snarl of bushes, where the crackling underbrush would warn +her of approach as fully as could the most complete system of burglar +alarms. + +That night, leaving word that whoever might be the first to stir in the +morning should call me, I unrolled my blankets under a spruce somewhat +apart from the crowd, and was soon asleep. Before daylight I was astir, +had a cup of coffee and a bite, and was off. Upon the previous afternoon +I had picked the direction I would take, which was to skirt certain +openings in the forest below. Fresh sign I saw that assured me of the +excellence of the range for bear, but I encountered nothing alive worth +powder and ball, and returned to camp about 9 o'clock. I was greeted by +Leonard with the joyful news that during my absence he had seen from +camp a big bear cross the side of the mountain only a mile or so away, +and disappear over the ridge. This happened about 7 o'clock. The chief +herder and my companion received the information somewhat in a spirit of +respectful incredulity, but Leonard assured me that it was so, and we +made preparations to follow the trail toward night. Meanwhile I +breakfasted and slept. + +We left camp about 3 o'clock in the afternoon, and without the slightest +difficulty found the beast's trail exactly where the Mexican had said we +should. Before this time I had killed an odd bear or so in Colorado, and +had had some little experience in unraveling the trail of game. It may +be rather priding myself upon the accomplishment, but let me here +acknowledge the superiority of professional talent. Leonard, to all +intents and purposes, had been born and raised on a sheep range. His +earliest recollections had been of the sheep camps of the Sierras, of +the reputation of the arch-enemy of the flock and of the havoc which he +works. From infancy he, like all the herders, had been constantly upon +the lookout for bear sign; it was his one keenest intellectual +accomplishment and diversion. The result of this special training was +such an acuteness of vision and nice discrimination of eye that he could +clearly distinguish a bear's footprints upon the naked sand and gravel +where at a quick glance I was unable to see any indication whatever. A +single grain of sand displaced was sufficient to arrest his eye; he +detected it instantly. To him the minutest particle had its +weather-beaten side as well as a boulder. A bear could not put his foot +upon the ground without leaving an impress which he could detect. His +talent was so quick and unerring that we soon organized a division of +labor. He was to concentrate his energies and attention upon the trail, +while I, by his side or a step in advance, when the trail read itself +and permitted such a course, was to watch ahead and around for both of +us. Fortunately this arrangement was satisfactory to him. The hardest of +the trail to decipher was where it was written in condensed shorthand +across a mountain slide or _coulisse_ of naked granite boulders. Here +not one trace was to be found in a dozen yards. Fortunately we could +trust in the genius of the bear; he was aware, as well as La Place, that +a straight line is the shortest distance between two points. He +undoubtedly knew exactly where he was heading. We had his general +direction, and by beating about for a tuft of grass here with a blade +displaced, a stray gooseberry bush there with a leaf awry, and yonder a +patch of thicker vegetation, betraying interference, we soon succeeded, +owing mainly to Leonard's genius as a pathfinder, in getting through a +couple of acres of this most vague and illegible pedography. At last we +had the trail upon the mountain side once more, where, after such +difficulties surmounted, following it was a comparative luxury. + +After having proceeded in this manner for perhaps two hours, we entered +timber, and were obliged to advance with greater caution to avoid the +slightest sound which might betray our presence and give the alarm. With +two men the risk of doing this is increased in geometrical ratio. One +person alone, traveling through the woods, may, and almost certainly +will, break an occasional twig under foot. If game is within hearing, +the sound will inevitably be detected; the deer, if it be a deer, will +lift his head and listen; but if the hunter stops and waits for a time, +the chances are that the animal will, after due interval of silence, +resume his feeding if so engaged, or his rumination, be it physical or +moral, and the alarm may not prove fatal. Not so when companions are +hunting together. It would seem as if the second man, with dreadful +promptness, never failed to snap his twig also, which sounds as loud as +a pistol coming upon the strained attention of the listening beast, who +is off like a streak, leaving the disappointed hunter, as he hears him +crashing away, to moralize that company in the chase halves the pleasure +and doubles the sorrow. The only safety where union is necessary is to +proceed with exaggerated and fantastic caution. + +Leonard was a treasure in this. He had dreamt of grizzlies all his life, +yet had never been in at the death. His heart was in the hunt--he fairly +sighed for gore. We crept into the woods as silent as panthers and as +"purry" in the ardor of the chase. After a mile or so our bear had come +to an immense fallen spruce, lying across the trail, with the big butt, +five or six feet in diameter, to our right, the top pointing up the +hill. Over the middle of this, at right angles, lay another large tree, +with the point toward us. I felt that behind the first of these, if I +had been the original and unmolested settler in these parts, as the bear +was, with all the world before me where to choose, I should have made +the bed for my morning nap. It was long after daylight when he had +reached this covert. He had doubtless been stirring soon after sunset +the evening before; he had, it is not unlikely, been traveling all +night; had feasted heartily upon a sheep during that interval, and by +the time he reached this place, which may have been in his mind from the +start, was feeling comfortably lazy and inclined to the refreshment of +sleep. Behind that tree, so admirably suited for the purpose, I trusted +that he might still remain. The big end would protect a cool space from +the heat of the morning sun, and we might yet be so lucky as to find him +in his lair beneath its shelter. A signal to Leonard was enough, and we +proceeded to circle the fallen timber, which fortunately the wind +permitted, with all the caution of which we were capable. Had the +gentleman we were after been our dearest friend at the crisis of a +fever, we could not have tiptoed about his bed with more solicitude lest +we disturb sweet slumber. The big tree lay in front of us; by this we +crept at a respectful distance, and then approached the further end of +the tree lying across it. With great care I sneaked up until I could +look over its trunk at the desired point. Alas! no bear had made his +nest there. + +Sorrowfully, but without a sound, I crawled upon the intervening log and +slowly stood erect. There, directly beneath me, where I could have +jumped into it most comfortably, was the deserted form of the bear, +which he had dug in the morning within an hour after Leonard had seen +him, and in which the greater part of the day had been spent, until he +had stirred abroad for water, with which to wash down the recollection +of his muttons. Although ardently hoping that he was behind the tree, I +had not in the least expected to find his bed in this particular place. +Had he stayed quietly there until our arrival, he would have given one +of us a delicious surprise, and the mutual agitation of the moment might +have induced a shot with unpremeditated haste, and possibly have caused +me to get off that fallen spruce tree in somewhat quicker time than I +had climbed it. One naturally would not feel any keen desire to display +his acrobatic skill in walking a log for the entertainment of an +infuriated grizzly. A few hairs proclaimed him a cinnamon, who is either +a variety of the grizzly or his first cousin--authorities differ; at all +events, he closely resembles him except in color, which, although of a +uniform light, fady brown, might be an extreme type of the "sorrel top" +of the Rockies. In size the cinnamon fully holds his own with the +grizzly; I should say that his head was rather longer. The generous +excavation which this one had made showed that he was no mean +representative of his species. + +Not twenty yards away, and near the end of the big tree where I had +expected to find him, was a little spring. To this, still without a +word, we proceeded, saw where he had stood to drink more than once, +doubtless long and deep. To our left, in the soft earth, lay his +retreating footsteps--a continuation of the general direction of his +previous course. A moment's pause for closer scrutiny, a smile and a +whispered word exchanged--just to show that we were not bored; then, +respectful of the silence of the darkening woods, we were again upon the +trail. It was now easy to see why he had left his lair; it faced the +west, and the heat of the afternoon sun had annoyed him, warmly clad and +irritable with high living. + +We had proceeded only about a stone's throw further when I caught a +glimpse of our bear. Within twenty paces, under the shadow of a tree at +the edge of a cool, umbrageous thicket, between him and the setting sun, +lay the beast we were after; or, as I for a moment thought, judging +from the great inchoate mass of brown fur, a pair, perhaps male and +female, or one, it might be, a yearling cub. With finger lifted I +signaled Leonard to stop. A great head was slowly raised and turned my +way. A bullet between the eyes and down it went again, and I threw +another cartridge into the chamber, expecting to see the second bear +spring to his feet, ready to do whatever, in his judgment, the occasion +required, either to fight or to run. Whichever he might elect to do, it +was well to be prepared. "Give him another shot," said the prudent +Leonard, and I fired a second time, sending this ball quartering and, +like the first, through the brain; then I realized that there was but +one, and he of creditable size. We soon had him out in the open, for +nothing is easier to roll about than a bear just killed. He is like a +great jelly-fish, and I have seen a little terrier no larger than a +rabbit worry and shake a great carcass four times as large as the most +commodious kennel he could desire, provided he were a sensible pup and +had the comfortable instinct of wild things for snugness rather than +ostentatious display. Enough of daylight remained for us to get his pelt +off, with head and claws unskinned and attached, and to hurry over the +mountain by moonlight with our trophy, a junk of rank meat for such as +might desire it not forgotten. + +We were cordially welcomed back to camp, and, after the usual pow-wow, +the cook, with due formality, with Mexican _chile_ and Spanish +politeness, proceeded to concoct the boasted _chile con oso_--a much +overrated dish when made of a tough old cinnamon he bear. After I had +turned in I heard much laughter, and subsequently learned that it was at +an incident of the day. As we were starting out in the afternoon, and +before we had struck the bear's trail, in order to avoid any possibility +of a premature shot I had casually inquired of Leonard if he wished to +earn five dollars. + +"Certainly, Senor, I am always glad to get the chance." + +"Well, don't shoot then until I give the word, and you shall have it." + +This circumstance Leonard had innocently narrated to the group around +the camp-fire in the fuller elaboration of the hunt, and the story had +an immediate success, the idea seeming to prevail that nothing in the +world could have tempted him to fire before he was compelled to--which, +as a matter of fact, I think was only prudent on his part, considering +the arms he bore. + +The next morning, to the infinite chagrin of some of us, the younger +_patron_ discovered that his presence was required at home, where, if he +was mildly chid by my friend, his elder brother, who in generosity to +his junior had yielded his own place and the leadership of this +expedition, I should not greatly grieve. + +Upon the third day thereafter we regained the ranch. + +_Alden Sampson._ + + + + +The Ascent of Chief Mountain + + +In the most northern corner of the Piegans' country, in northwestern +Montana, almost grazing the Canadian border with its abrupt side, stands +a turret-shaped mountain. Behind it the great range of the Rockies, +which for hundreds of miles has been trending steadily northwood, bends +sharply away toward the west, leaving the corner on which the mountain +stands a huge protruding pedestal for its weird shape. Ninety years ago +Lewis and Clarke saw it from far to southward as they passed along the +dwindling Missouri and called it Tower Mountain; but to the Indians it +has always been The Chief Mountain. Even those prosaic German +geographers to whom we owe so much for information about our own and +other lands have either seen it and fallen under the spell of its +strange power, or have taken their nomenclature directly from the +Piegans, for they have crowned it Kaiser Peak. + +For more than a year we had been numbered with the Chief's subjects. +During the previous summer we had been seeking the acquaintance of the +mountain goat; not the shorn degenerate which throngs the slopes of the +Cascades and straggles among the southern peaks of Montana, but the true +snowy buffalo of the northern Rockies; and from the ledges of the St. +Mary Mountains, where we had sought him, could be seen still further to +the northward the Piegans' Chief. Of the range, yet not in it, like a +captain well to the front of his battle-line, he pressed out into the +broad prairie, as if leading a charge of Titans toward the far distant +lakes. And through the long months of an Eastern winter, and the still +longer months of an Eastern summer, above all the memories of that +wondrous land where every butte and mountain peak teems with legend, and +where every bison skull on the prairie tells its story, had towered the +clear-cut image of that Northern mountain, a worthy sovereign of any +man's allegiance. Now, as inevitably as an antelope returns to its lure, +we had returned for a closer look at our mountain. Down deep in our +hearts, battling with the awe which we felt for him, was the almost +unspoken hope that perhaps in some way we might struggle up his sheer +sides and make him, in a way he was to no one else, our king. + +We were a party of three, the Doctor and I, and our faithful packer, +Fox. A cold storm was blowing spitefully across the open foothills and +out on to the prairie as we broke camp under the high banks of Kennedy +Creek on the morning of the last stage of our journey. The clouds, +driving over the range from the northwest, swung so low that they hid +the peaks, and the great pedestal of the Chief met them all uncrowned, +indistinguishable from the others about him. It was one of those +doubtful mornings with which the mountains love to warn off strangers, +or to greet their friends--one which might presage a week of storm or +usher in a fortnight of surpassing beauty. + +We had camped for the night at the last of those ranches which stretch +along the bottom lands of the St. Mary River, and just as we started, +its owner, Indian Billy, decided to go with us. + +Even he had never been to the foot of his tribe's famous peak, and the +dark-skinned idlers of the ranch who gathered about us as we flung the +lash ropes over our horses could tell us little more than legends of +it. Several Bloods from across the Canadian border declared that the +boundary line ran, not where the white men had marked it on the prairie +with their insignificant piles of stones, but through the deep cleft in +the Chief's wall, where the Great Spirit himself had placed it; thus +giving to the Bloods, who knew it best, their proper share of the +mountain. And, getting warmer in their enthusiasm, they reminded Billy +of their standing challenge to his tribe, the Piegans--fifty horses to +anyone who should run around that wall, small as it seemed, in half a +day. + +For our part it was hard to realize even on that cold September morning +that the long dreaming was over and the reality before us. It took all +the straining of the pack ponies on the wet lead-ropes to remind us that +we were at last climbing the foothills of the great peak. Our presence +there, far from breaking the long enchantment, surrendered us bodily to +it, and Billy, riding over the successive slopes before us, swaying in +the saddle with the hawk-like motion of the prairie Indian, seemed a fit +ambassador to lead us to his king. As the day passed, the clouds +gradually lightened; and finally, just as we surmounted one of the +higher foothills, at the summit of the long, sloping, forest-clad +pedestal before us broke through the crown of the Chief. Toward us, on +the east, it showed a black rectangular wall 2,000 feet in length, 1,500 +in height, and from its sharp corners the broken mists streamed away +southward like tattered garments. + +A few hasty pictures, taken while Fox mended a broken pack cinch, and we +pressed on toward the foot of the mountain. Some benign influence was +with us even thus early, and we were guided into the easiest way. +Streaks of burned forest, bristling with windfalls, were slowly but +successfully threaded, long rock slides luckily avoided, while we +mounted steadily slope after slope; until finally, late in the +afternoon, we pulled our panting horses out, just above timber line, +upon the comparatively level summit of the pedestal. The foot of the +great crown wall was still a mile away and 1,000 feet above us, but we +were near enough and high enough for our purpose; and in a deep basin, +sheltered from the wind and carpeted with softest mountain grass, and +with the only water in the neighborhood sparkling up from a spring in +the bottom, we found a perfect camp. As soon as the tents were pitched, +Fox set about preparing dinner, while the seven horses, freed from their +loads, buried their noses in the grass in perfect contentment. + +As he sat in the door of the tent, the Doctor's eyes seemed glued to his +field glass, while the object lenses ever pointed in the one direction, +westward; under the brim of the Indian's broad hat, as he lay apparently +dozing before the fire, I could see his black eyes fixed on the same +point; and even Fox, constantly shifting his position about the fire, +rarely took one which placed his back toward that black wall behind +which the sun was now gradually sinking. For myself, all the longing of +the past year had concentrated itself into a desire to rush over this +last remaining distance; to get to that magic crown, to feel it with +hand and foot, and to see whether, as the Piegans aver, it denied even a +single foothold for a mortal man. + +After dinner the Doctor and I did go to it. We clambered out of our +little basin on to the higher portion of the domelike pedestal, and from +this platform, on which rests the great crown, looked past its two edges +at the vast mountain range behind it, stretching north and south. Then +we picked our way toward it, through the loose boulders and broken rock; +saw the summit hang further and further over us as we advanced into the +gloom at its foot, and after finally reaching it and pressing ourselves +against it where it rose sheer from its pedestal, we hurried back to +camp through the twilight, thoroughly awed by the solemnity of the +place. + +The storm of the morning had cleared into a most perfect night; and, as +we lay about the fire, Billy told us all that the old men had told him +of the Chief. A full-blooded Piegan, in his new life as a ranchman he +had not lost touch with the traditions of his tribe. Only one Piegan, he +said, had ever attempted to climb the mountain. Years ago a hunting +party of their young men had been encamped on the opposite side, where +the cliffs do not overhang so much, and ledges run temptingly up for a +distance; and one of them, the youngest and most ambitious of the band, +declared that he would go to the summit. He started, and his companions +watched him from below until he passed along one of the very highest +ledges, out of sight. Then the spirit of the mountain must have met +him; for, though they waited many days, and searched for him all around +the base, he never came back. And the Piegans, being a prairie tribe and +not over fond of the mountains at best, thereafter avoided any close +acquaintance with their king. + +A story had come to them, however, from the Flatheads across the +range--a tribe whose prowess they always respected in war, as they +believed in their truthfulness in peace--and as the story related to +their mountain, they had treasured it among their own legends. Still +earlier, many years before even the oldest Piegan was a boy, there had +lived a great Flathead warrior, a man watched over by a spirit so mighty +that no peril of battle or of the hunt could overcome him. When at last +in his old age he came to die, he told the young men his long-kept +secret. Many years before, as the time approached for him to go off into +the forest and sleep his warrior sleep, in which he hoped to see the +vision which should be his guide and protection through life, he had +decided to seek a spot and a spirit which had never before been tried. +So, carrying the usual sacred bison skull for his pillow, he had +crossed the mountains eastward into the far-off Piegan country. Then, +with none to aid him save the steady power of his own courage, he had +ventured upon the ledges of the Chief of the Mountains, and, choking +down each gasp of panic when at overhanging corners the black walls +seemed striving to thrust him off and down, he had finally forced his +way to the very summit. For four days and nights he had fasted there, +sleeping in the great cleft which one can see from far out on the +prairie. On each of the first three nights, with ever increasing +violence, the spirit of the mountain had come to him and threatened to +hurl him off the face of the cliff if he did not go down on the +following day. Each time he had refused to go, and had spent the day +pacing the summit, chanting his warrior song and waving his peace pipe +in the air as an offering, until finally, on the fourth night, the +spirit had yielded, had smoked the pipe, and had given him the token of +his life. None of the young Flatheads, however, said Billy, had dared to +follow their great warrior's example; so that to this day he was the +only man who had braved the spirit of the Chief and made it his friend. + +[Illustration: THE CHIEF'S CROWN, FROM THE EAST.] + +After we were rolled in our blankets, and the late moon, rising from +the prairie ocean behind us, had turned the dark, threatening wall to +cheering silver, we thought again of the old warrior's steadfastness and +longed to make his example ours. + + * * * * * + +The Doctor's thermometer marked 20 degrees Fahrenheit when Fox called +us, and the morning bucket which he dashed over us was flavored with +more of the spirit of duty than usual. But otherwise the weather had +been made for us. Yesterday's storm had beaten down the smoke from +Washington forest fires, which had clouded everything for the past +month, and the Sweet Grass Hills twinkled across one hundred miles of +prairie as if at our feet; and yet there was hardly a breath of wind. +Under the lee of the wall itself absolute stillness brooded over ledges +which even a moderate breeze could have made dangerous. We did not make +an early start. The thing could be done quickly if it could be done at +all, for there was only 1,500 feet of cliff. + +Our men did not give the attempt to reach the summit from this, the +eastern side, even the scant compliment of a doubt; in their minds its +failure was certain, but they were willing to see how far we could get +up. The Doctor, too, had at first suggested, and with perfect +correctness, that to try a difficult side of a mountain before +reconnoitering the other was bad mountaineering, to say the least. But, +on the other hand, this east side was the famous side of the Chief--the +side which every passer-by on the prairie saw and wondered at. With our +glasses we had mapped a course which seemed not impossible; was it not +better to meet our king face to face than to steal on him from behind? +Besides, this wonderful weather might not last long enough for us to +reach the other side. And so our final conclusion was to try the east +face. + +Half way up the sheer face of the cliff was divided horizontally by a +broad, steep shelf which ran nearly the length of the mountain. That +shelf could clearly be crossed at any place; the difficulty would lie +with the walls below and above it. The lower one was bad enough at best, +but it was easy to recognize as least bad a place where a slope of shale +abutted against it, shortening it some 300 feet. The upper wall in +general seemed even worse, but it was furrowed by two deep chimneys, +side by side, one of which led into the mountain's well-known cleft. +The other chimney seemed to lead directly to the summit, but its lower +mouth was inaccessible--cut off by overhanging cliff. Our plan, +therefore, if we could ever reach the halfway shelf, was to use the +first chimney in the beginning, then try to find a way around the +dividing shoulder into the second, then follow that to the top. And at 9 +o'clock we began on the lower wall. + +Of course, the work which followed was not so difficult as it had +promised from below--rock work rarely is--but it thoroughly taxed our +slender experience, and, for a single man without a rope, must have been +far worse. The Doctor and I took turns in leading, carrying up or having +thrown to us from below a rope, on which the others then ascended. Most +of the difficulty was thus confined to one man, and he could often be +assisted from beneath. We were not skilled enough in the use of the rope +to risk tying ourselves together. + +Two hundred feet up came our first trouble, perhaps the worst of the +day. We were sidling along a narrow shelf, with arms outstretched +against the wall above, when we reached a spot where the shelf was +broken by a round protruding shoulder. Beyond it the ledge commenced +again and seemed to offer our only way upward. I was leading at the +time, and, after examining it, turned back to a wider portion of the +shelf for consultation. It was not a place one would care to try if +there was an alternative. + +We braced the Indian against the wall, and his skillful hand sent the +lariat whirling up at a sharp rock above our heads. Time after time the +noose settled fairly around it, but found no neck to hold it, and came +sliding down. Then, almost before we knew it, the Doctor had run out +along the ledge to the shoulder and had started around. For a moment he +hung, griping the rounded surface with arms and knees; then a dangerous +wriggle and he was on the other side. + +Under his coaching the Indian and I followed; but Fox, when half way, +lost his head, and barely succeeded in getting back to the starting +point. He would not try again. The poor fellow's moccasins had lost some +of their nails and he had slipped once or twice that morning, thus +destroying the nerve of one who had at other times shown himself a good +climber. But of the Indian's companionship for the rest of the day we +were now sure. + +Again, when near the top of that first wall, and when the halfway ledge +seemed almost within our grasp, the shallow cleft--up which we were +scrambling--ended in a deep pocket in the cliff's face, with no outlet +above. The Doctor tried it at one corner, but the treacherous crumbling +rock warned him back. I tried it at another, but was stopped by an +overhang in the cliff. No help for it but to go back and try to find a +way around. + +Fifty feet below we landed on a small shelf running horizontally along +the mountain's face, and, after following it northward a few moments, we +found another channel leading up. The Doctor started to investigate it, +while Billy and I continued on slowly looking for a better. Almost +immediately, however, we heard the Doctor shout "All right," and, +following him, came out at last upon the great halfway shelf of the +mountain. + +This was a steep slope of shale, which seemed in places quite ready to +slide in an avalanche of loose rock over the edge of the cliff below; +but the relief of being out upon it, and able once more to stand upright +without the sensation of a wall against your face, apparently trying to +shove you outward from your slender foothold, was simply indescribable. + +After crossing the shelf and eating our lunch in the mouth of the first +or left-hand chimney, we attacked the upper wall. Following up the +chimney a short distance, we found at last a narrow ledge leading to the +right, and, creeping around on it, I looked into the right-hand chimney +above its forbidding mouth. It led as a broad, almost easy, staircase +clear to the top of the wall above, and for the first time we felt as if +our king were really ours. + +Six or seven hundred feet more of steady work, and we could feel the +summit breeze beginning to blow down the narrow mouth of the chimney. +Billy was then sent to the front, and at half past one the first Piegan +stepped out on the summit of the Chief Mountain. + +It is a long ridge of disintegrated rock, flanked at either end by lower +rounded turrets, and at its highest part is no wider than a New England +stone wall. On the opposite western side the cliffs fell away as on our +own, but they seemed shorter, were composed of looser rock, and far down +below we could see steep slopes of shale meeting them part way. After +we had picked out our various landmarks in the wonderful outlook about +us, and I had made my record from compass and barometer, we pushed our +way carefully along to the highest point of the narrow ridge, in order +to mark it with a cairn of rocks. Just as we reached it, the Indian, who +was still in the lead, suddenly stopped and pointed to the ground. +There, on the very summit of Chief Mountain, safely anchored by rocks +from the effect of wind or tempest, lay a small, weather-beaten bison +skull. It was certainly one of the very oldest I have ever seen. Even in +the pure air of that mountain top it had rotted away until there was +little else than the frontal bone and the stubs on which had been the +horns. Billy picked it up and handed it to us quietly, saying with +perfect conviction, "The old Flathead's pillow!" + +We left the skull where it had been found. Much as we should have +treasured it as a token of that day, the devotion of the old warrior who +had brought it was an influence quite sufficient to protect this +memorial of his visit. We shared his reverence far too much to allow us +to remove its offering. And then, too, as Billy suggested, we were still +on top of the Chief, and the Chief had certainly been very forbearing +to us. Those long walls, now darkened by the afternoon shade, those +narrow ledges whence the downward climber could no longer avoid seeing +the stone he dislodged bound, after two or three lengthening jumps, +clear to the pedestal below, loomed very suggestively before his mind. +But the Chief still remained gracious, and Billy worked even more +steadily and sure-footedly going down than in the morning. We had all +gained confidence, and besides we were certain of our course. By 5 +o'clock we had reached the last bad place--where Fox had left us--and, +after avoiding that by swinging down hand over hand on the rope from a +ledge above, it was only a few moments to the bottom. + +That night, after we were all safe in camp, and the great cliff beamed +down on us more kindly than ever in the moonlight, the Doctor and I +decided that we had been more favored than the old Flathead warrior, for +the spirit of our mountain had been with us even before we reached its +top. + +And for our success an explanation beyond our physical powers seemed +necessary to others also; for, when a few days later we returned to the +ranch in the St. Mary's Valley, Billy, who had preceded us, met us with +the mien of the prophet who is denied by his own, and told us that his +cousins, the Bloods from across the border, had suggested that, when +next he returned from a trip to the range, he should bring them a +likelier story than that he had climbed the east face of the Chief +Mountain. + +_Henry L. Stimson._ + + + + +The Cougar + + +It was upwards of twelve years ago that I had been down to one of the +Rio Grande River towns herding up Mexicans, whom I expected to aid me in +discovering gold where none existed. On my way down I had run across a +mountain lion making off with a lamb, and shot and secured him after a +little strategic maneuvering. On the return journey, after I had hired +as many of the greasers as I desired, I camped at night about twenty +miles from home, in a log cabin that had lost the door, the roof and all +the chinking from between the logs. + +There was no reason to fear wild beasts--and the cabin would have been +no protection for me even if there had been; nor was the structure any +protection from the numerous cut-throat, horse-stealing Mexicans who +flourished in that section of the country as thickly as cactus. However, +I lariated my horse and threw down my blankets in this tumble-down +shack, and turned in. I have quite a habit of sleeping on my back, and I +was awakened some time in the night by a feeling of oppression on my +chest. Having been accustomed to life in a country where the Indians +were rampant, and where the wise man on awakening looked about him +before stirring, I opened my eyes without moving, and there, standing +directly on my breast, looking me squarely in the face, was a skunk, +with its nose not, I swear, six inches from my own. + +It was a bright moonlight night, and I could see that the little devil +was of the kind whose bite is said to convey hydrophobia. But that did +not worry me; it was not the bite I feared. I realized perfectly that if +I moved I might get myself into trouble. I knew that the only thing for +me to do was to let the skunk gambol over me until he wearied of the +pastime and went out of the cabin. + +I have a lurking suspicion that that skunk knew I was awake and in +mental agony; for, after looking me in the face, he ran down my body on +one leg and then up again, actually smelling of one of my ears; and then +he trotted off me on to the floor of the cabin, where he nosed about +awhile, then up again on my body; and, after sprinting a few seconds +over my person, he went down and out of the cabin. + +So soon as he had disappeared out of the door I jumped to my feet and, +drawing my gun, rushed out after him. He was plainly visible just to the +right of the cabin, and I blazed away. Immediately after I had shot him +I regretted it, for I had to move camp. + +The next day, on my way back to camp, I journeyed over a divide that was +more or less noted as a den for mountain lions; though to designate any +particular locality as a "den" for cougars is incorrect, for it is not +an animal that remains in any one place for any great length of time. He +is a wandering pirate, who makes no one district his home for any long +period. + +However, this especial divide was said to harbor more of them than any +other; or, at least, there were more signs of them, and more were +reported to be started from there by hunters than elsewhere in the +territory. Be that as it may, on the particular day of which I write I +accidentally ran across the only cougar I ever have killed which gave me +a fight and stampeded my horse, so that I was obliged to foot it into +camp. + +I do not think the bronco is as fearful of the cougar as of the bear, at +least my experience has not been such. I have had a mustang jump pretty +nearly from under me on winding a bear, and I have wasted minutes upon +minutes in getting him near the carcass of a dead one, that I might pack +home a bit of bruin's highly-scented flesh, and I never had any similar +experience where the cougar was concerned. I have had my pony evince +reluctance to approach the slain lion, but not show the absolute terror +which seizes them in the neighborhood of bear. + +My experience at this particular time, as I say, was novel in two +respects--first, the fright with which my bronco was stricken; and +second, the fight shown by the cougar. I had reached the top of the +divide, and was picking my way across the fallen timber, which so often +blocks the trail over the tops of divides in New Mexico. I remember +distinctly having gained a clear spot that was pretty well filled with +wild violets, which grew in great profusion thereabouts, and was guiding +my pony that I should not trample upon them; for in that God-forsaken +district, 10,000 feet above the level of the sea, it seemed too bad to +crush the life out of the dainty little flowers that hold up their heads +to the New Mexico sunshine. + +Without warning, my bronco, which was traveling along at a fox-trot, +stopped suddenly, and looking up I saw, not more than fifty yards away, +about as large a mountain lion as I had ever encountered, standing +motionless and looking at us with utmost complacency. To throw myself +out of the saddle and draw my Sharps-forty from the saddle holster was +the work of a very few seconds. Throwing the bridle rein over my arm, I +slipped in a cartridge, and was just pulling down on him when the cougar +started off at a swinging trot to one side at right angles to where he +had stood, and through some small quaking aspens. Without thinking of +the bridle being over my arm, I knelt quickly in order to get a better +sight of the animal, and almost simultaneously pressed the trigger. + +As I did so my bronco threw up his head, which spoiled my aim, and, +instead of sending the ball through the cougar's heart, as I had hoped +to do, it went through the top of his shoulders, making a superficial +wound--not sufficiently severe to interfere with his locomotion, as I +immediately discovered; for, with a combined screech and growl, that +lion wheeled in my direction, and made for me with big jumps that were +not exactly of lightning rapidity, but were ground-covering enough to +create discomfort in the object of his wrath. + +My bronco, meanwhile, was jumping all over the ground, and I realized I +could not hold him and make sure of my aim. To swing myself into the +saddle and make away would have been simple, but I knew enough of the +cougar to know that if I retreated, he, in his fury, would be sure to +follow; and on that mountain side, with its fallen timber and rough +going, I should have little chance in a race with him. I had no revolver +to meet him in the saddle at short range, and a knife was not to my +liking for any purpose, so far as an infuriated cougar was concerned, +except for skinning him, once I had put sufficient lead into his carcass +to quiet his nerves. There was nothing for me to do but fight it out on +foot; therefore I dropped the bridle rein and turned the bronco loose +(thinking he would run his fright off in a short distance), and gave +myself up to the business of the moment, which, with the beast getting +nearer every instant, was becoming rather serious. I do not know how +others have felt under like conditions; but there is something about the +look of a cougar on business bent, with its greenish, staring eyes, that +produces a most uncomfortable sensation. I have been sent up a tree +post-haste by a bear, and I have had an old bull moose give me an +unpleasant quarter of an hour, but I am sure I never experienced a more +disagreeable sensation than when I looked through my rifle sights at +that loping lion. He did not seem to be in any feverish anxiety to reach +me, but there was an earnest air about his progression that was ominous. + +Under any circumstances, it is not altogether pleasing to have a +mountain lion, on his busy day, making for you, and with only about +fifteen to twenty yards between him and his quarry. I presume the +delicacy of the situation must have impressed itself upon me; for my +next shot, although I aimed for one of those hideous eyes, missed far +enough to clip off a piece of skin from the top of his skull and to whet +his appetite for my gore. My bullet seemed to give him an added +impetus; for, with almost a single bound and a blood-chilling screech, +by the time I had put another cartridge into my single-shot rifle, he +was practically on top of me. Fortunately, his spring had landed him +short, and in another instant I had very nearly blown his entire head +off. He was a monster. I skinned him and hung his pelt on a tree; and, +on foot, made my way into camp, after a fruitless search for my bronco. + +I have killed five cougars, and this is the only one that ever gave me a +fight. I record it with much pleasure, for there is an uncertainty about +the cougar's temperament and an alacrity of movement that are altogether +unsettling. You never know in what mood you find the mountain lion, and +he does not seem by any chance to be in the same one more than once, for +those I have shot have evinced different dispositions; generally, +however, bordering on the cowardly. At times their actions are +sufficient to characterize them as the veriest cowards in the world, and +yet again, on very slight provocation, they are most aggressive and +cruelly ferocious. There are many well-authenticated stories, to be had +for the asking of any old mountaineer, of the unwonted craftiness and +ferocity of the cougar, and I suppose I could fill a couple of chapters +of this volume by recounting yarns that have been told me during my +Western life. + +Between ourselves, I do not think hunting the cougar is very much sport. +It is an instructive experience, and one, I think, every hunter of big +game should have; but, at the same time, in my opinion it does not +afford the sport of still-hunting deer, antelope, elk, moose or bears. +In the first place, there is really no time you can still-hunt the +cougar except in winter, when there is a light snow on the ground, and +at all times it is most difficult, because you are dealing with an +animal that embodies the very quintessence of wariness, and is ever on +the lookout for prey and enemies. You have to deal with an animal that +knows every crevice and hole of the mountain side, that moves by night +in preference to day, and rarely travels in the open; whose great +velvety paws enable it to sneak about absolutely unheard, and that will +crouch in its lair while you pass, perhaps within a dozen feet. + +Yet there are only two ways of really hunting the mountain lion--by +still-hunting and by baiting. I have tried baiting a number of times, +but have never found it successful. Others, I understand, have found it +so; but in a score of cases, where I have provided tempting morsels, and +lain out all night in hopes of getting a shot at the marauder, in none +have I been rewarded, and in only one or two have I got a glimpse of a +pair of shining eyes, that disappeared in the gloom almost on the +instant of my discovering them. + +Probably the most successful method of getting a shot at this wary beast +is by hunting it with dogs (though I never had the experience), for the +mountain lion has small lungs and makes a short, fast race. With dogs on +his trail he is likely to take to a tree after a not very long run, +which rarely occurs when he is still-hunted on foot. Yet, if the hunter +values the lives of his dogs, he must be sure of his first shot, for the +cougar is a tough customer to tackle when in his death throes; and I +have been told, by those who have hunted in this way, that many a young +and promising dog has had the life crushed out of him by the dying lion. +Their forelegs are short and very powerful; but, curiously enough, +unlike the bear, they do not use them in cutting and slashing so much +as in drawing the victim to them to crush out its life with their strong +jaws. + +I have said, one never knows how to take the cougar. Almost every mining +camp in the West will produce somebody who has met and scared him to +flight by a mere wave of the hand or a shout, and that identical camp +will as like as not produce men that have had the most trying +experiences with the same animal. It is this knowledge that makes you, +to say the least, a little uncomfortable when you meet one of these +creatures. I have had many trying experiences of one kind and another, +and hunted many different kinds of game, but none ever harassed my soul +as the cougar has. On one occasion I had been about five miles from +camp, prospecting for gold, which I had discovered in such alluring +quantities as to keep me panning until darkness put an end to my work +and started me homeward. It was a pretty dark night, and my trail lay +along the side of a mountain that was rather thickly wooded and a pretty +fair sort of hunting country. I had left my cabin early in the morning, +intent on finding one of the numerous fortunes that was confidently +believed to be hidden away in those New Mexico gulches, and was armed +only with pick, shovel and pan. I was sauntering along, beset by dreams +of prospective prosperity, based on the excellent finds I had made, when +suddenly in front of me--I am sure not more than twenty-five feet--two +great balls of fire rudely awakened me and brought my progress to an +abrupt halt. I dare say it took a second or two to bring me down to +earth, but when the earthward flight was accomplished I immediately +concluded that those balls of fire must belong to a mountain lion. + +At that time my experience with the cougar had been sufficient to put me +in an uncertain frame of mind as to just what to expect of the creature. +I had not an idea whether he was going to spring at me or whether I +could scare him away. However, on chance, I broke the stillness of the +night by one of those cowboy yells, in the calliope variations of which +I was pretty well versed in those days, and, to my immense relief, the +two glaring balls of fire disappeared. + +Trudging on my way, I had once more lost myself in the roseate future +incidental to placers averaging three dollars in gold to the cubic +yard, when, as suddenly as before, and as directly in front of me, those +two glaring balls shone out like a hideous nightmare. This time, I +confess, I was a little bit annoyed. I knew that, as a rule, mountain +lions do not follow you unless they are ravenous with hunger or smell +blood. I had not been hunting, and, consequently, my clothes and hands +were free from gore, and I was therefore forced to the sickening +conclusion that this particular beast had selected me as a toothsome +morsel for its evening repast. I cannot honestly say I was flattered by +the implied compliment, and, summoning all my nerve, I reached for a +rock and hurled it at those eyes, to hear it crash into the dry brush, +and, greatly to my peace of mind, to see the diabolical lights go out, +for it was too dark to distinguish the animal itself. + +Congratulating myself on the disappearance of the hideous +will-o'-the-wisp, I set out at a five-mile-an-hour gait for camp. My +castles in the air had by this time quite dissolved, and I was attending +strictly to the business of the trail, wishing camp was at hand instead +of a mile off, when once more those greenish lanterns of despair loomed +up ahead of me--not more than a dozen feet away, it seemed. I presume +the beast had been trailing me all the time, though, after its second +visitation, I kept a sharp lookout without discovering it, but evidently +it had kept track of my movements. + +I had no proof of its being the same animal, of course, but I was pretty +well persuaded of its identity, and I became thoroughly convinced that +this particular cougar had grown weary of waiting for its supper, and +was about to begin its meal without even the courtesy of "by your +leave." The uncanny feature of the experience was that not a sound +revealed its approach on any occasion, and I had no intimation of its +call until it dropped directly in my path. I leaned against a friendly +tree and thought pretty hard, watching the animal most intently to see +that it did not advance. It stood there as still as death, so far as I +could distinguish, not moving even its head, and the steady glare of its +eyes turned full upon me. + +I made up my mind that, if the animal was going to feast on me that +evening, I would disarrange its digestion, if possible. My short-handled +prospecting pick was the nearest approach I had to a weapon, and, +summoning all my ancient baseball skill, and feeling very carefully all +around me to see that there were no intervening branches to arrest its +flight, I hurled that pick at those two shining eyes, with a fervid wish +that it might land between them. My aim was true and it landed--just +where I cannot say, but I do know that it struck home; for, with a +screech calculated to freeze one's blood, and a subsequent growl, the +lion made off. For the rest of the mile to camp I had eyes on all sides +of the path at once, but I was not molested. + +I have since often wondered whether hunger or pure malice possessed that +brute. Owen Wister, to whom I told the story not very long ago, +suggested curiosity, and I am half inclined to believe his +interpretation; for, if hunger had been the incentive, it seems as if a +tap on the nose with a prospecting pick would not have appeased it, +though the cougar's propensity for following people, out of +unadulterated wantonness to frighten them, is well known. At any rate, +he showed his cowardly side that trip. + +The cougar is a curious beast, capricious as a woman. One day he follows +his prey stealthily until the proper opportunity for springing upon it +comes; again he will race after a deer in the open; at one time he will +flee at a shout, at another he will fight desperately. They are +powerful animals, particularly in the fore quarters. I have seen one +lope down a mountain side, through about six inches of snow, carrying a +fawn by the nape of the neck in its jaws, and swinging the body clear. + +In the West generally, I think, the lion is considered cowardly--a +belief I share, though agreeing with Theodore Roosevelt, who in "The +Wilderness Hunter" says cougars, and, in fact, all animals vary in moods +just as much as mankind. Because of their feline strategy and +craftiness, they are most difficult animals to hunt; I know none more +so. Neither do I know of any beast so likely to still the tenderfoot's +heart. Their cry is as terror-striking as it is varied. I have heard +them wail so you would swear an infant had been left out in the cold by +its mamma; I have heard them screech like a woman in distress; and, +again, growl after the conventional manner attributed to the monarch of +the forest. The average camp dog runs to cover when a cougar is +awakening the echoes of the mountain. I should call it lucky, for those +who hunt with dogs, that the lion does not pierce the atmosphere by his +screeches when being hunted; for, if he did, I fear it would be a +difficult matter to keep dogs on his trail. There seems to be something +about his screeching that particularly terrorizes dogs. + +_Casper W. Whitney._ + + + + +[Illustration: YAKS GRAZING.] + +Big Game of Mongolia and Tibet + + +From remote antiquity hunting has been a favorite pastime of the +emperors of China, but at no time has it been conducted with such +magnificence as under the Mongol dynasty in the thirteenth century and +during the reigning Manchu one. + +Marco Polo's account of a hunt of Kublai Khan reads like a fairy tale. +The Emperor left his capital every year in March for a hunting +expedition in Mongolia, accompanied by all his barons, thousands of +followers and innumerable beaters. "He took with him," says Polo, "fully +10,000 falconers and some 500 gerfalcons, besides peregrines, sakers and +other hawks in great numbers, including goshawks, to fly at the +waterfowl. He had also numbers of hunting leopards (_cheetah_) and +lynxes, lions, leopards, wolves and eagles, trained to catch boars and +wild cattle, bears, wild asses, stags, wolves, foxes, deer and wild +goats, and other great and fierce beasts. + +"The Emperor himself is carried upon four elephants in a fine chamber, +made of timber, lined inside with plates of beaten gold and outside with +lions' skins. And sometimes, as they may be going along, and the Emperor +from his chamber is holding discourse with the barons, one of the latter +shall exclaim: 'Sire, look out for cranes!' Then the Emperor instantly +has the top of his chamber thrown open, and, having marked the cranes, +he casts one of his gerfalcons, whichever he pleases; and often the +quarry is struck within his view, so that he has the most exquisite +sport and diversion there, as he sits in his chamber or lies on his bed; +and all the barons with him get the enjoyment of it likewise. So it is +not without reason I tell you that I do not believe there ever existed +in the world, or ever will exist, a man with such sport and enjoyment as +he has, or with such rare opportunities." + +In the latter part of the seventeenth century, during the reign of the +Emperor K'ang-hsi, Father Gerbillon followed the Emperor several times +on his hunting expeditions into Mongolia, and has told us in his +accounts of these journeys of the enthusiasm and skill displayed by the +Emperor in the pursuit of game, which he usually shot with arrows, +though he also had hawks and greyhounds with him. + +I find no mention of the use of firearms in these imperial hunts, nor do +I believe that it has ever been considered, by the Tartars and Mongols, +sportsmanlike to use them. + +Coursing and hawking were probably introduced into China and Mongolia +after the Mongol conquest of Western Asia, where those royal sports had +then been in vogue for a long time. At present the Manchus keep great +numbers of hawks, caught for the most part in the northern portion of +the province of Shan-hsi, and with them they take hares and cranes. +Greyhounds are no longer numerous in Mongolia and China, though they are +much prized, and I have seen some among the Ordos Mongols and in Manchu +garrisons. They were short-haired, of a clear tan color with black +points, and showed good blood in their small tails and depth of chest. + +Besides the great annual hunts on the steppes--which, leaving aside the +sport and incidental invigorating influence on the courtiers, helped, by +the vast numbers of troops which took part in them, to keep quiet the +then turbulent Mongol tribes--the emperors of China have had, at +different times, great hunting parks, inclosed by high walls, at +convenient distances from their capital, or even in close proximity to +it, where they could indulge their fondness for the chase. Several of +these parks (called _wei chang_) are still preserved for imperial hunts, +and one I visited in 1886, to the north of Jehol and about six days' +travel from Peking, is some ninety miles long from north to south, and +over thirty miles from east to west. It is well stocked with pheasants, +roebucks, stags, and, it is said, there are also tigers and leopards in +it. The park is guarded by troops, and any person caught poaching in it, +besides receiving corporal punishment, is exiled for a period of a year +and a half to two years to a distant town of the empire. During my visit +to this park, I and my three companions camped just outside one of the +gates, and, by paying the keepers a small sum, we were able to get daily +a few hours' shooting in a little valley inside the wall and near our +camp. Though we had no dogs, and lost all the winged birds and wounded +hares, we bagged in nine or ten days over 500 pheasants, 150 hares, 100 +partridges and a few ducks. + +A mile or so south of Peking is another famous hunting park, called the +_Nan-hai-tzu_, in which is found that remarkable deer, not known to +exist in a wild state in any other spot, called _Cervus davidi_. Of late +years a number of these deer have been raised in the imperial park of +Uwino at Tokio, and also in the Zoological Garden of Berlin, where a +pair were sent by the German Minister to China, Mr. Von Brandt. This +deer is known to the Chinese as the _ssu-pu-hsiang-tzu_, "the four +dissimilarities," because, while its body shows points of resemblance to +those of the deer, horse, cow and ass, it belongs to neither of those +four species--so say the Chinese. + +The Chinese proper show but rarely any great love for sport. They are +fond of fishing, and I have seen some very good shots among them, +especially at snipe shooting, when, with their match-locks fired from +the hip, they will frequently do snap shooting of which any of our crack +shots might be proud. But the Chinese are essentially pot hunters, and +have no sportsmanlike instincts as have the Manchus and Mongols, with +whom sport is one of the pleasures of life, though it is also a source +of profit to many Mongol tribes. In winter they supply with game--deer, +boars, antelope, hares, pheasants and partridges--the Peking market, +bringing them there frozen from remote corners of their country. + +Among the big game in the northern part of the Chinese Empire the first +place properly belongs to tigers and leopards. In Korea tigers are quite +common, and a special corps of tiger hunters was kept up until recently +by the Government. The usual method of killing tigers is to make a +pitfall in a narrow path along which one has been found to travel, and +on either side of it a strong fence is erected. When the tiger has +fallen into the pit, he is shot to death or speared. The skin belongs to +the king, and the hunters are rewarded by him for each beast killed. The +skins are used to cover the seats of high dignitaries, to whom they are +given by the king, as are also the skins of leopards; and tigers' +whiskers go to ornament the hats of certain petty officials. + +Leopards are so numerous in Korea that I have known of two being killed +within a few weeks inside of the walls of Seoul. + +Tigers are also found in Manchuria, and, as before mentioned, in parts +of northern and southeastern China. I have seen the skin of a small one +hanging as an _ex voto_ offering in a lama temple near the Koko-Nor, and +was told that it had been killed not far from that spot. Colonel +Prjevalsky, however, says that the tiger is not found in northwestern +China; so the question remains an open one. + +Leopards, at all events, are common in northeastern and northwestern +China, in the hunting parks north of Peking, in the mountains of +northwest Kan-su and to the south of Koko-Nor. Bears are common from +northern Korea to the Pamirs. The Chinese distinguish two varieties, +which they call "dog bear" or "hog bear," and "man bear." The first is a +brown bear, and the latter, which is found on the high barren plateaus +to the north of Tibet, where it makes its food principally of the little +lagomys or marmots, which live there in great numbers, has for this +reason been called by Colonel Prjevalsky _Ursus lagomyarius_. I killed +one weighing over 600 pounds, whose claws were larger and thicker than +those of any grizzly I have seen. Its color is a rusty black, with a +patch of white on the breast. + +Besides these two varieties of bears, there is another animal, which, +though it is not properly a bear, resembles one so closely that it is +classed by the Chinese and Tibetans in that family. It is known to the +Chinese as _hua hsiung_, or "mottled bear," and Milne Edwards, who +studied and described it, has called it _Ailuropus melanoleucus_. This +animal was, I believe, discovered by that enterprising missionary and +naturalist, Father Armand David (who called it "white bear"), in the +little eastern Tibetan principality of Dringpa or Mupin, in western +Ssu-ch'uan.[13] Five specimens have so far been secured of this very +rare animal: three are in the Jardin des Plantes of Paris, the other two +in the Museum at the Jesuits' establishment, at Zikawei, near Shanghai. + + [13] See _Nouvelles Archives du Museum de Paris_, X., pp. 18 and 20. + +The stag or red deer ("horse deer" in Chinese) is found in Manchuria and +northern Korea, and the Tibetan variety, called _shawo_, must be very +abundant in portions of eastern Tibet, to judge from the innumerable +loads of horns which I have passed while traveling through eastern Tibet +on the way to China, in which latter country they are used in the +preparation of toilet powder. There is also a small deer in the +mountains of Alashan, in western Kan-su and Ssu-ch'uan, and in the +Ts'aidam; but I know nothing concerning it save its Mongol name, +_bura_, and its Chinese, _yang lu_, or "sheep deer." Prjevalsky, +however, gives some interesting details concerning it. Some Chinese +mention a third variety, called _mei lu_, or "beautiful deer," said to +live in the Koko-Nor country. + +[Illustration: AILUROPUS MELANOLEUCUS.] + +The musk deer is found in most parts of the Himalayas and Tibet, and as +far northeast as Lan-chou, on the Yellow River, in the Chinese province +of Kan-su. It is hunted wherever found, and nearly all the musk +ultimately finds its way to Europe or America, as it is not used to any +great extent by either Tibetans, Chinese or any of the other peoples in +whose countries it is procured; the Chinese only use a small quantity in +the preparation of some of their medicines. They distinguish two +varieties of musk deer: one, having tusks much larger than the other, is +called "yellow musk deer." + +Next in importance among the game of this region we find the _Antilope +gutturosa_ and the _Ovis burhil_, or "mountain goat," which range from +eastern Mongolia to western Tibet. But more important than these from a +sportsman's point of view is the _argali_, of which Col. Prjevalsky +distinguishes two varieties: the _Ovis argali_, ranging along the +northern bend of the Yellow River, between Kuei-hua Ch'eng and Alashan; +and the white-breasted _argali_, or _Ovis poli_, ranging from the +Ts'aidam and western Ssu-ch'uan to the Pamirs. + +The name _argali_ is, I think, an unfortunate one to give to this +species, as it is a Mongol word solely used to designate the female +animal, the male of which is called _kuldza_. + +The _Antilope hodgsoni_, called _orongo_ in Mongol, has about the same +range as the _Ovis poli_. It is by far the most beautiful antelope of +this region--the long, graceful, lyre-shaped horns, which it carries +very erect when running, being frequently over two feet in length. + +Although, to my mind, what are commonly regarded as cattle should no +more be considered game when wild than when tame, still, as I am perhaps +alone of this opinion, I must note, among the game animals of this part +of Asia, yaks and asses, which are found in western Mongolia, Turkestan +and in many parts of Tibet, especially the wild northern country, or +Chang-t'ang. + +The wild yak is invariably black, with short, rather slender horns +(smaller than our buffalo's), bending gracefully forward. The head is +large, but well proportioned, and the eyes quite large, but with a very +wild look in them. The legs are short and very heavy, the hoofs straight +and invariably black. The hair, which hangs down over the body and legs, +the face alone excepted, is wavy, and on the sides, belly and legs is so +long that it reaches within a few inches of the ground. The tail is very +bushy and reaches to the hocks, all the hair being of such uniform +length that it looks as if it were trimmed. When running, the yak +carries its tail high up or even over its back, and when frightened or +angered holds it straight out behind. + +The calves have a grunt resembling that of the hog, hence the name _Bos +grunniens_, but in the grown animal it is rarely heard; it is at best +only a dull, low sound, unworthy of such a big, savage-looking beast. +The bones of the yak are so heavy that it is nearly impossible to kill +one except by shooting it through the heart or wounding it in some +equally vital spot. Although I have shot a great many of these animals +in northern Tibet, I have never bagged any except when shot as above +mentioned, nor have I ever broken the limb of one. It is true that I +have done all my shooting with a .44 caliber Winchester carbine, which +was entirely too light for the purpose. + +The yak is not a dangerous animal except in the case of a solitary bull, +which will sometimes charge a few yards at a time, till he falls dead at +the hunter's feet, riddled with bullets. When in large bands yaks run at +the first shot, rushing down ravines, through snow banks and across +rivers, without a moment's hesitation, in a wild stampede. + +Mongol and Tibetan hunters say that one must never shoot at a solitary +yak whose horns have a backward curve, as he will certainly prove +dangerous when wounded; but the same beast may be shot at with impunity +if in a band. In fact, the natives never shoot at yaks except when in a +good-sized bunch. Natives usually hunt them by twos and threes, and, +after stalking to within a hundred yards or even less, they all blaze +away at the same time. + +The number of yaks on the plateaus north of Tibet is very considerable, +but there are no such herds as were seen of buffaloes on our plains +until within a few years. I have never seen over 300 in a herd, but Col. +Prjevalsky says that when he first visited the country around the +sources of the Yellow River, in 1870, he saw herds there of a thousand +head and more. Yaks are enormous feeders, and, in a country as thinly +covered with grass as that in which they roam, they must travel great +distances to secure enough food. As it is, it is the rarest thing in the +world to find even in July or August fine grazing in any part of this +country; the yaks keep the grass as closely cut as would a machine. + +In some of the wildest districts of western China a wild ox (_budorcas_) +is still found. Father Armand David thus describes it (_Nouvelles +Archives du Museum de Paris_, X., 17): "It is a kind of _ovibos_, with +very short tail, black and sharp horns, with broad bases touching on the +forehead; its ears are small, and, as it were, cropped obliquely. The +iris is of a dirty yellow gold color, the pupil oblong and horizontal. +The fur is quite long and of a dirty white color, with a dash of brown +on the hind quarters." + +The wild ass is no longer found, I believe, to the east of the Koko-Nor, +but from that meridian as far west as Persia is met with in large +numbers, and in the wilds to the north of Tibet in vast herds, quite as +large and numerous as those of yaks. + +The wild ass (called _kulan_ or _hulan_ in Mongol) stands about twelve +hands high, and is invariably of a tan color, with a dark line running +down the back, and white on the belly, neck and feet. The tail is rather +short, and thinly covered with hair; the head is broad, heavy, and too +large for the body of the animal. It carries its head very high when in +motion, and when trotting its tail is nearly erect. Its usual gait is a +trot or a run. A herd always moves in single file, a stallion leading. +As a rule, a stallion has a small band of ten or twelve mares, which he +herds and guards with jealous care day and night. Frequently these bands +run together and form herds of 500 or even of 1,000. + +One often meets solitary jackasses wandering about; they have been +deprived of their band of mares in a fight with some stronger male. +These have frequently proved most troublesome to me; they would round up +and drive off my ponies--all of which were mares--to add to the little +nucleus of a band they had hidden away in some lonely nook in the hills. +I have frequently had to lose days at a time hunting for my horses, and +I finally made it a point to shoot all such animals that came near my +camp; though I had a strong dislike to killing them--they looked so like +tame asses--and I never could see any sport in it, though the meat was +good enough--much better than yak flesh. + +The _hulan_ is very fleet and has wonderfully acute hearing, but it +possesses too great curiosity for its own safety; it will generally +circle around the hunter if not shot at, and come quite near to have a +look at the strange, unknown animal. + +It is said that wild camels and horses are found in some of the remoter +corners of southwestern Turkestan and south of Lob-Nor, and specimens of +them have been secured by Prjevalsky, Grijimailo and Littledale. The +question is now whether these animals are domesticated ones run wild, or +really wild varieties. Naturalists will probably disagree on this point. +For the time being these animals are too little known for me to express +an opinion on the subject, and, not having seen any, I can add nothing +to what has been written on the subject. + +My own shooting in Mongolia and Tibet has always been under +difficulties. Traveling without European companions, and my Asiatic one +not knowing how to handle our firearms, I have been able to give but +little time to sport. When pressed for food, however, I have killed +yaks, asses, _argali_, mountain sheep and antelope; I have also bagged a +few bears and leopards; but, as my only rifle was rather for purposes of +defense than for shooting game, I never went much out of my way to look +up these animals, though I felt great confidence in my good little +Winchester, having killed the largest yak I ever shot at, and a fine +bear, each with one shot from it. + +The game I mostly shot while in Tibet was yak; but, as I never killed +any save for meat--not believing in the theory of destroying animal life +for the sake of trophies to hang upon the wall--I made no phenomenal +bags, though big game was so plentiful in many sections of the country +that even with a native match-lock it would have been possible to have +killed many more animals than I did. + +The yak I approached at first with considerable trepidation, as I had +read in various books of their savageness and of the danger that the +hunter was exposed to from one of these big animals when wounded; but +now I am wiser, and I can reassure those who would kill these big +beasts; they look more dangerous than they really are, and will hardly +ever push their charge home, even when badly wounded. The first time I +saw them we were traveling up a rather open valley beside a frozen +rivulet, where, upon reaching the top of a little swell, some six or +eight hundred yards off, were a couple of hundred yaks coming down +toward the stream to try and find a water hole. I made signs to the men +behind me to stop, and, jumping from my horse, I crawled along to within +about 200 yards of them, when I blazed away at the biggest I could pick +out, standing a little nearer to me than the rest of the herd. They paid +hardly any attention to the slight report of my rifle; only the one at +which I shot advanced a short distance in the direction of the smoke and +then stopped, waving his great bushy tail over his back and holding his +head erect. I fired again, when he and the rest of the herd turned and +ran on to the ice, where I opened fire on them once more. They seemed +puzzled by the noise, but my bullets did not seem to harm them. Finally +one charged and then another, and at last the whole herd came dashing +up in my direction; but "I lay very low," especially as at this +seemingly critical moment I found that I had no more cartridges in my +gun. After awhile they turned and trotted back to the river, and I made +for my horse, much disappointed at my apparent failure to do any of them +any injury. + +[Illustration: ELAPHURUS DAVIDIANUS.] + +In the meantime my men had pushed on about half a mile, and we stopped +in a little nook to take a cup of tea. Having here supplied myself with +cartridges, I thought I would try to get another shot at the yaks, some +of which I could still see on the mountain side beyond the stream. My +delight was great when, coming up to the place where I had last seen +them, a big bull was lying dead, shot through the heart. + +The only time I ever encountered a solitary bull he bluffed us so +completely that I do not know but my reputation as a sportsman will +suffer materially by mentioning the incident. One day, as we were +rounding the corner of a hill, we saw an immense fellow, not 200 yards +off; and my two big mastiffs, which by this time were getting hardly any +food--as our stock of provisions was running very short, and who passed +most of their time while we were on the march vainly chasing hares, +marmots and any other animals they could see--made a dash for the yak +and commenced snapping at him. He trotted slowly off, but soon, becoming +angry, turned on the dogs, who came back to the caravan. He followed +them until within twenty yards of us. All my recollections of the +dangers encountered by Prjevalsky with yaks, all his remarks of the +extraordinary thickness and impenetrability of their skulls, of the +difficulty of killing these monstrous animals, and of their +ferociousness when wounded, came vividly to my mind in an instant. I saw +my mules and horses gored and bleeding on the ground, my expedition +brought to an untimely end, and a wounded yak waving his tail +triumphantly over us, for I was certain that with my light Winchester I +could never drop him dead in his tracks. We did not even dare so much as +look at him, but kept on our way, and the yak walked beside us, +evidently rejoicing in his victory. The dogs, now thoroughly cowed, took +refuge on the side of the caravan furthest from the infuriated animal, +and so we marched on for about half a mile, when, in utter disgust, he +turned and trotted off to the hillside where he stood watching us, his +bushy tail stretched out as stiff as iron behind him, pawing the ground, +and thus we left him. + +Shooting wild asses was much tamer business. We saw them sometimes in +herds of five or six hundred. They would mix with our mules even when +grazing around the camp, and often took them off five or six miles, when +we had great difficulty in getting them back. We frequently, however, +killed one for meat, which we found to be very savory; though most of my +men, who were Mahomedans, would only eat it when very hard pushed by +hunger, as their religion forbade them to eat the flesh of any animal +without cloven hoofs. I always felt, however, in shooting these animals, +as if I were destroying a domestic mule, and could never bring myself to +look upon them as fit game for a sportsman. This was strongly impressed +upon me one day when, desiring to get a fine specimen, whose skin and +bones I could bring back for the National Museum, I shot a very large +jack which was grazing some distance from our line of march, and broke +its hind legs, and was then obliged to go up to the poor beast and put a +ball into its head. After accomplishing this disagreeable duty in the +interest of science--though to no purpose, as it turned out, for I was +obliged to throw away the skin and bones a few days after, because I had +no means of transporting them--I made a solemn promise to myself that I +would never shoot a _kyang_ again; and, I am pleased to say, I broke my +promise but twice, and then I did so only to give us food, of which we +stood in great need. + +Shooting antelope in Tibet is not more exciting--or interesting, for +that matter--than shooting them elsewhere, and I do not know that +anything special can be said about this sport beyond the fact that the +number of Hodgson antelope which we met in parts of northern Tibet was +sometimes extraordinarily great. These animals suffer greatly, however, +from some plague, which frequently sweeps off enormous numbers of them. +I have passed over places where the bones of a hundred or more of them +might be seen, one near the other; and districts which I had visited in +1889, and where I had found great numbers of them, were absolutely +without a sign of one when I was there again in 1892. + +Of bear-hunting I can say but little. On different occasions, in various +parts of northern Tibet, I killed six or eight pretty good sized brown +bears; but a man would have to be blind not to be able to hit one at +twenty-five or thirty yards, and it is always possible to get as near +them as that, even in the open country which they frequent. They have +apparently no dens, but live in the holes in the ground which they dig +to get the little marmots on which they feed. These bears are, however, +very fleet, as I once or twice found out when trying to ride them down +on horseback, and when they nearly proved a match for the best ponies I +had. The natives stand in great dread of them, and will never attack +them except when there are three or four men together, when they +approach them from different directions and open fire all at the same +time. They say these bears are man-eaters, and even when the men with me +saw them lying dead they showed great repugnance to touch the body, or +even to come near them; though they might have made eight or ten dollars +by splitting them open and removing the gall--a highly-prized medicine +among the Chinese, who also find a place for bears' paws in their +pharmacopoeia. + +On the whole, though Korea, Mongolia and Tibet have plenty of big game, +they are not countries for a sportsman, and unless he has some other +hobby to take him there, he had better seek his fun elsewhere in more +accessible quarters of the globe. + +_W. W. Rockhill._ + + + + +Hunting in the Cattle Country + + +The little hunting I did in 1893 and 1894 was while I was at my ranch +house, or while out on the range among the cattle; and I shot merely the +game needed for the table by myself and those who were with me. It is +still possible in the cattle country to kill an occasional bighorn, bear +or elk; but nowadays the only big game upon which the ranchman of the +great plains can safely count are deer and antelope. While at the ranch +house itself, I rely for venison upon shooting either blacktail in the +broken country away from the river, or else whitetail in the river +bottoms. When out on the great plains, where the cattle range freely in +the summer, or when visiting the line camps, or any ranch on the heads +of the longer creeks, the prongbuck furnishes our fresh meat. + +In both 1893 and 1894 I made trips to a vast tract of rolling prairie +land, some fifty miles from my ranch, where I have for many years +enjoyed the keen pleasure of hunting the prongbuck. In 1893 the +pronghorned bands were as plentiful in this district as I have ever seen +them anywhere. A friend, a fellow Boone and Crockett man, Alexander +Lambert, was with me; and in a week's trip, including the journey out +and back, we easily shot all the antelope we felt we had any right to +kill; for we only shot to get meat, or an unusually fine head. + +In antelope shooting more cartridges are expended in proportion to the +amount of game killed than with any other game, because the shots are +generally taken at long range; and yet, being taken in the open, there +is usually a chance to use four or five cartridges before the animal +gets out of sight. These shots do not generally kill, but every now and +then they do; and so the hunter is encouraged to try them, especially as +after the first shot the game has been scared anyway, and no harm +results from firing the others. + +In 1893, Lambert, who was on his first hunt with the rifle, did most of +the shooting, and I myself fired at only two antelope, both of which had +already been missed. In each case a hard run and much firing at long +ranges, together with in one case some skillful maneuvering, got me my +game; yet one buck cost nine cartridges and the other eight. In 1894 I +had exactly the reverse experience. I killed five antelope for +thirty-six shots, but each one that I killed was killed with the first +bullet, and in not one case where I missed the first time did I hit with +any subsequent one. These five antelope were shot at an average distance +of about 150 yards. Those that I missed were, of course, much further +off on an average, and I usually emptied my magazine at each. The number +of cartridges spent would seem extraordinary to a tyro; and a very +unusually skillful shot, or else a very timid shot who fears to take +risks, will of course make a better showing per head killed; but I doubt +if men with much experience in antelope hunting, who keep an accurate +account of the cartridges they expend, will see anything out of the way +in the performance. During the thirteen years I have hunted in the West +I have always, where possible, kept a record of the number of cartridges +expended for every head of game killed, and of the distances at which it +was shot. I have found that with bison, bears, moose, elk, caribou, +big-horn and white goats, where the animals shot at were mostly of +large size and usually stationary, and where the mountainous or wooded +country gave chance for a close approach, the average distance at which +I have killed the game has been eighty yards, and the average number of +cartridges expended per head slain three: one of these representing the +death shot and the others standing either for misses outright, of which +there were not very many, or else for wounding game which escaped, or +which I afterward overtook, or for stopping cripples or charging beasts. +I have killed but one cougar and two peccaries, using but one cartridge +for each; all three were close up. At wolves and coyotes I have +generally had to take running shots at very long range, and I have +killed but two for fifty cartridges. Blacktail deer I have generally +shot at about ninety yards, at an expenditure of about four cartridges +apiece. Whitetail I have killed at shorter range; but the shots were +generally running, often taken under difficult circumstances, so that my +expenditure of cartridges was rather larger. Antelope, on the other +hand, I have on the average shot at a little short of 150 yards, and +they have cost me about nine cartridges apiece. This, of course, as I +have explained above, does not mean that I have missed eight out of nine +antelope, for often the entire nine cartridges would be spent at an +antelope which I eventually got. It merely means that, counting all the +shots of every description fired at antelope, I had one head to show for +each nine cartridges expended. Thus, the first antelope I shot in 1893 +cost me ten cartridges, of which three hit him, while the seven that +missed were fired at over 400 yards' distance while he was running. We +saw him while we were with the wagon. As we had many miles to go before +sunset, we cared nothing about frightening other game, and, as we had no +fresh meat, it was worth while to take some chances to procure it. When +I first fired, the prongbuck had already been shot at and was in full +flight. He was beyond all reasonable range, but some of our bullets went +over him and he began to turn. By running to one side I got a shot at +him at a little over 400 paces, as he slowed to a walk, bewildered by +the firing, and the bullet broke his hip. I missed him two or three +times as he plunged off, and then by hard running down a water course +got a shot at 180 paces and broke his shoulder, and broke his neck with +another bullet when I came up. This one was shot while going out to the +hunting ground. While there, Lambert killed four or five; most of the +meat we gave away. I did not fire again until on our return, when I +killed another buck one day while we were riding with the wagon. + +The day was gray and overcast. There were slight flurries of snow, and +the cold wind chilled us as it blew across the endless reaches of +sad-colored prairie. Behind us loomed Sentinel Butte, and all around the +rolling surface was broken by chains of hills, by patches of bad lands, +or by isolated, saddle-shaped mounds. The ranch wagon jolted over the +uneven sward, and plunged in and out of the dry beds of the occasional +water courses; for we were following no road, but merely striking +northward across the prairie toward the P. K. ranch. We went at a good +pace, for the afternoon was bleak, the wagon was lightly loaded, and the +Sheriff, who was serving for the nonce as our teamster and cook, kept +the two gaunt, wild-looking horses trotting steadily. Lambert and I rode +to one side on our unkempt cow ponies, our rifles slung across the +saddle bows. + +Our stock of fresh meat was getting low and we were anxious to shoot +something; but in the early hours of the afternoon we saw no game. Small +parties of horned larks ran along the ground ahead of the wagon, +twittering plaintively as they rose, and occasional flocks of longspurs +flew hither and thither; but of larger life we saw nothing, save +occasional bands of range horses. The drought had been very severe and +we were far from the river, so that we saw no horned stock. Horses can +travel much further to water than cattle, and, when the springs dry up, +they stay much further out on the prairie. + +At last we did see a band of four antelope, lying in the middle of a +wide plain, but they saw us before we saw them, and the ground was so +barren of cover that it was impossible to get near them. Moreover, they +were very shy and ran almost as soon as we got our eyes on them. For an +hour or two after this we jogged along without seeing anything, while +the gray clouds piled up in the west and the afternoon began to darken; +then, just after passing Saddle Butte, we struck a rough prairie road, +which we knew led to the P. K. ranch--a road very faint in places, while +in others the wheels had sunk deep in the ground and made long, +parallel ruts. + +Almost immediately after striking this road, on topping a small rise, we +discovered a young prongbuck standing off a couple of hundred yards to +one side, gazing at the wagon with that absorbed curiosity which in this +game so often conquers its extreme wariness and timidity, to a certain +extent offsetting the advantage conferred upon it by its marvelous +vision. The little antelope stood broadside, too, gazing at us out of +its great bulging eyes, the sharply contrasted browns and whites of its +coat showing plainly. Lambert and I leaped off our horses immediately, +and I knelt and pulled the trigger; but the cartridge snapped, and the +little buck, wheeling around, cantered off, the white hairs on its rump +all erect, as is always the case with the pronghorn when under the +influence of fear or excitement. My companion took a hasty, running +shot, with no more effect than changing the canter into a breakneck +gallop; and, though we opened on it as it ran, it went unharmed over the +crest of rising ground in front. We ran after it as hard as we could +pelt up the hill, into a slight valley, and then up another rise, and +again got a glimpse of it standing, but this time further off than +before; and again our shots went wild. + +However, the antelope changed its racing gallop to a canter while still +in sight, going slower and slower, and, what was rather curious, it did +not seem much frightened. We were naturally a good deal chagrined at our +shooting and wished to retrieve ourselves, if possible; so we ran back +to the wagon, got our horses and rode after the buck. He had continued +his flight in a straight line, gradually slackening his pace, and a +mile's brisk gallop enabled us to catch a glimpse of him, far ahead and +merely walking. The wind was bad, and we decided to sweep off and try to +circle round ahead of him. Accordingly, we dropped back, turned into a +slight hollow to the right, and galloped hard until we came to the foot +of a series of low buttes, when we turned more to the left; and, when we +judged that we were about across the antelope's line of march, leaped +from our horses, threw the reins over their heads, and left them +standing, while we stole up the nearest rise; and, when close to the +top, took off our caps and pushed ourselves forward, flat on our faces, +to peep over. We had judged the distance well, for we saw the antelope +at once, now stopping to graze. Drawing back, we ran along some little +distance nearer, then drew up over the same rise. He was only about 125 +yards off, and this time there was no excuse for my failing to get him; +but fail I did, and away the buck raced again, with both of us shooting. +My first two shots were misses, but I kept correcting my aim and holding +further in front of the flying beast. My last shot was taken just as the +antelope reached the edge of the broken country, in which he would have +been safe; and almost as I pulled the trigger I had the satisfaction of +seeing him pitch forward and, after turning a complete somersault, lie +motionless. I had broken his neck. He had cost us a good many +cartridges, and, though my last shot was well aimed, there was doubtless +considerable chance in my hitting him, while there was no excuse at all +for at least one of my previous misses. Nevertheless, all old hunters +know that there is no other kind of shooting in which so many cartridges +are expended for every head of game bagged. + +As we knelt down to butcher the antelope, the clouds broke and the rain +fell. Hastily we took off the saddle and hams, and, packing them behind +us on our horses, loped to the wagon in the teeth of the cold storm. +When we overtook it, after some sharp riding, we threw in the meat, and +not very much later, when the day was growing dusky, caught sight of the +group of low ranch buildings toward which we had been headed. We were +received with warm hospitality, as one always is in a ranch country. We +dried our steaming clothes inside the warm ranch house and had a good +supper, and that night we rolled up in our blankets and tarpaulins, and +slept soundly in the lee of a big haystack. The ranch house stood in the +winding bottom of a creek; the flanking hills were covered with stunted +cedar, while dwarf cottonwood and box elder grew by the pools in the +half-dried creek bed. + +Next morning we had risen by dawn. The storm was over, and it was clear +and cold. Before sunrise we had started. We were only some thirty miles +from my ranch, and I directed the Sheriff how to go there, by striking +east until he came to the main divide, and then following that down till +he got past a certain big plateau, when a turn to the right down any of +the coulees would bring him into the river bottom near the ranch house. +We wished ourselves to ride off to one side and try to pick up another +antelope. However, the Sheriff took the wrong turn after getting to the +divide, and struck the river bottom some fifteen miles out of his way, +so that we reached the ranch a good many hours before he did. + +When we left the wagon we galloped straight across country, looking out +from the divide across the great rolling landscape, every feature +standing clear through the frosty air. Hour after hour we galloped on +and on over the grassy seas in the glorious morning. Once we stopped, +and I held the horses while Lambert stalked and shot a fine prongbuck; +then we tied his head and hams to our saddles and again pressed forward +along the divide. We had hoped to get lunch at a spring that I knew of +some twelve miles from my ranch, but when we reached it we found it dry +and went on without halting. Early in the afternoon we came out on the +broad, tree-clad bottom on which the ranch house stands, and, threading +our way along the cattle trails, soon drew up in front of the gray, +empty buildings. + +Just as we were leaving the hunting grounds on this trip, after having +killed all the game we felt we had a right to kill, we encountered +bands of Sioux Indians from the Standing Rock and Cheyenne River +reservations coming in to hunt, and I at once felt that the chances for +much future sport in that particular district were small. Indians are +not good shots, but they hunt in great numbers, killing everything, +does, fawns and bucks alike, and they follow the wounded animals with +the utmost perseverance, so that they cause great destruction to game. + +Accordingly, in 1894, when I started for these same grounds, it was with +some misgivings; but I had time only to make a few days' hunt, and I +knew of no other accessible grounds where prongbuck were plentiful. My +foreman was with me, and we took the ranch wagon also, driven by a +cowboy who had just come up over the trail with cattle from Colorado. On +reaching our happy hunting grounds of the previous season, I found my +fears sadly verified; and one unforeseen circumstance also told against +me. Not only had the Indians made a great killing of antelope the season +before, but in the spring one or two sheep men had moved into the +country. We found that the big flocks had been moving from one spring +pool to another, eating the pasturage bare, while the shepherds whom we +met--wild-looking men on rough horses, each accompanied by a pair of +furtive sheep dogs--had taken every opportunity to get a shot at +antelope, so as to provide themselves with fresh meat. Two days of +fruitless hunting in this sheep-ridden region was sufficient to show +that the antelope were too scarce and shy to give us hope for sport, and +we shifted quarters, a long day's journey, to the head of another creek; +and we had to go to yet another before we found much game. As so often +happens on such a trip, when we started to have bad luck we had plenty. +One night two of the three saddle horses stampeded and went back +straight as the crow flies to their home range, so that we did not get +them until on our return from the trip. On another occasion the team +succeeded in breaking the wagon pole; and, as there was an entire +absence of wood where we were at the time, we had to make a splice for +it with the two tent poles and the picket ropes. Nevertheless it was +very enjoyable out on the great grassy plains. Although we had a tent +with us, I always slept in the open in my buffalo bag, with the +tarpaulin to pull over me if it rained. On each night before going to +sleep, I lay for many minutes gazing at the extraordinary multitude of +stars above, or watching the rising of the red moon, which was just at +or past the full. + +We had plenty of fresh meat--prairie fowl and young sage fowl for the +first twenty-four hours, and antelope venison afterward. We camped by +little pools, generally getting fair water; and from the camps where +there was plenty of wood we took enough to build the fires at those +where there was none. The nights were frosty, and the days cool and +pleasant, and from sunrise to sunset we were off riding or walking among +the low hills and over the uplands, so that we slept well and ate well, +and felt the beat of hardy life in our veins. + +Much of the time we were on a high divide between two creek systems, +from which we could see the great landmarks of all the regions +roundabout--Sentinel Butte, Square Butte and Middle Butte, far to the +north and east of us. Nothing could be more lonely and nothing more +beautiful than the view at nightfall across the prairies to these huge +hill masses, when the lengthening shadows had at last merged into one +and the faint glow of the red sun filled the west. The rolling prairie, +sweeping in endless waves to the feet of the great hills, grew purple as +the evening darkened, and the buttes loomed into vague, mysterious +beauty as their sharp outlines softened in the twilight. + +Even when we got out of reach of the sheep men we never found antelope +very plentiful, and they were shy, and the country was flat, so that the +stalking was extremely difficult; yet I had pretty good sport. The first +animal I killed was a doe, shot for meat, because I had twice failed to +get bucks at which I emptied my magazine at long range, and we were all +feeling hungry for venison. After that I killed nothing but bucks. Of +the five antelope killed, one I got by a headlong gallop to cut off his +line of flight. As sometimes happens with this queer, erratic animal, +when the buck saw that I was trying to cut off his flight he simply +raced ahead just as hard as he knew how, and, as my pony was not fast, +he got to the little pass for which he was headed 200 yards ahead of me. +I then jumped off, and his curiosity made him commit the fatal mistake +of halting for a moment to look round at me. He was standing end on, and +offered a very small mark at 200 yards; but I made a good line shot, +and, though I held a trifle too high, I hit him in the head, and down he +came. Another buck I shot from under the wagon early one morning as he +was passing just beyond the picketed horses. The other three I got after +much maneuvering and long, tedious stalks. + +In some of the stalks, after infinite labor, and perhaps after crawling +on all fours for an hour, or pulling myself flat on my face among some +small sagebrush for ten or fifteen minutes, the game took alarm and went +off. Too often, also, when I finally did get a shot, it was under such +circumstances that I missed. Sometimes the game was too far; sometimes +it had taken alarm and was already in motion. Once in the afternoon I +had to spend so much time waiting for the antelope to get into a +favorable place that, when I got up close, I found the light already so +bad that my front sight glimmered indistinctly, and the bullet went +wild. Another time I met with one of those misadventures which are +especially irritating. It was at midday, and I made out at a long +distance a band of antelope lying for their noon rest in a slight +hollow. A careful stalk brought me up within fifty yards of them. I was +crawling flat on my face, for the crest of the hillock sloped so gently +that this was the only way to get near them. At last, peering through +the grass, I saw the head of a doe. In a moment she saw me and jumped to +her feet, and up stood the whole band, including the buck. I immediately +tried to draw a bead on the latter, and to my horror found that, lying +flat as I was, and leaning on my elbows. I could not bring the rifle +above the tall, shaking grass, and was utterly unable to get a sight. In +another second away tore all the antelope. I jumped to my feet, took a +snap shot at the buck as he raced round a low-cut bank and missed, and +then walked drearily home, chewing the cud of my ill luck. Yet again in +more than one instance, after making a good stalk upon a band seen at +some distance, I found it contained only does and fawns, and would not +shoot at them. + +Three times, however, the stalk was successful. Twice I was out alone; +the other time my foreman was with me, and kept my horse while I +maneuvered hither and thither, and finally succeeded in getting into +range. In both the first instances I got a standing shot, but on this +last occasion, when my foreman was with me, two of the watchful does +which were in the band saw me before I could get a shot at the old buck. +I was creeping up a low washout, and, by ducking hastily down again and +running back and up a side coulee, I managed to get within long range of +the band as they cantered off, not yet thoroughly alarmed. The buck was +behind, and I held just ahead of him. He plunged to the shot, but went +off over the hill crest. When I had panted up to the ridge, I found him +dead just beyond. + +One of the antelope I killed while I was out on foot at nightfall, a +couple of miles from the wagon; I left the shoulders and neck, carrying +in the rest of the carcass on my back. On the other occasion I had my +horse with me and took in the whole antelope, packing it behind the +saddle, after it was dressed and the legs cut off below the knees. In +packing an antelope or deer behind the saddle, I always cut slashes +through the sinews of the legs just above the joints; then I put the +buck behind the saddle, run the picket rope from the horn of the saddle, +under the belly of the horse, through the slashes in the legs on the +other side, bring the end back, swaying well down on it, and fasten it +to the horn; then I repeat the same feat for the other side. Packed in +this way, the carcass always rides perfectly steady, and can not, by any +possibility, shake loose. Of course, a horse has to have some little +training before it will submit to being packed. + +The above experiences are just about those which befall the average +ranchman when he is hunting antelope. To illustrate how much less apt he +is to spend as many shots while after other game, I may mention the last +mountain sheep and last deer I killed, each of which cost me but a +single cartridge. + +The bighorn was killed in the fall of 1894, while I was camped on the +Little Missouri, some ten miles below my ranch. The bottoms were broad +and grassy, and were walled in by rows of high, steep bluffs, with back +of them a mass of broken country, in many places almost impassable for +horses. The wagon was drawn up on the edge of the fringe of tall +cottonwoods which stretched along the brink of the shrunken river. The +weather had grown cold, and at night the frost gathered thickly on our +sleeping bags. Great flocks of sandhill cranes passed overhead from time +to time, the air resounding with their strange, musical, guttural +clangor. + +For several days we had hunted perseveringly, but without success, +through the broken country. We had come across tracks of mountain sheep, +but not the animals themselves, and the few blacktail which we had seen +had seen us first and escaped before we could get within shot. The only +thing killed had been a whitetail fawn, which Lambert had knocked over +by a very pretty shot as we were riding through a long, heavily-timbered +bottom. Four men in stalwart health and taking much outdoor exercise +have large appetites, and the flesh of the whitetail was almost gone. + +One evening Lambert and I hunted nearly to the head of one of the creeks +which opened close to our camp, and, in turning to descend what we +thought was one of the side coulees leading into it, we contrived to get +over the divide into the coulees of an entirely different creek system, +and did not discover our error until it was too late to remedy it. We +struck the river about nightfall, and were not quite sure where, and had +six miles' tramp in the dark along the sandy river bed and through the +dense timber bottoms, wading the streams a dozen times before we finally +struck camp, tired and hungry, and able to appreciate to the full the +stew of hot venison and potatoes, and afterward the comfort of our +buffalo and caribou hide sleeping bags. The next morning the Sheriff's +remark of "Look alive, you fellows, if you want any breakfast," awoke +the other members of the party shortly after dawn. It was bitterly cold +as we scrambled out of our bedding, and, after a hasty wash, huddled +around the fire, where the venison was sizzling and the coffee-pot +boiling, while the bread was kept warm in the Dutch oven. About a third +of a mile away to the west the bluffs, which rose abruptly from the +river bottom, were crowned by a high plateau, where the grass was so +good that over night the horses had been led up and picketed on it, and +the man who had led them up had stated the previous evening that he had +seen what he took to be fresh footprints of a mountain sheep crossing +the surface of a bluff fronting our camp. The footprints apparently +showed that the animal had been there since the camp had been pitched. +The face of the cliff on this side was very sheer, the path by which the +horses scrambled to the top being around a shoulder and out of sight of +camp. + +While sitting close up around the fire finishing breakfast, and just as +the first level sunbeams struck the top of the plateau, we saw on this +cliff crest something moving, and at first supposed it to be one of the +horses which had broken loose from its picket pin. Soon the thing, +whatever it was, raised its head, and we were all on our feet in a +moment, exclaiming that it was a deer or a sheep. It was feeding in +plain sight of us only about a third of a mile distant, and the horses, +as I afterward found, were but a few rods beyond it on the plateau. The +instant I realized that it was game of some kind I seized my rifle, +buckled on my cartridge belt, and slunk off toward the river bed. As +soon as I was under the protection of the line of cottonwoods, I trotted +briskly toward the cliff, and when I got to where it impinged on the +river I ran a little to the left, and, selecting what I deemed to be a +favorable place, began to make the ascent. The animal was on the grassy +bench, some eight or ten feet below the crest, when I last saw it; but +it was evidently moving hither and thither, sometimes on this bench and +sometimes on the crest itself, cropping the short grass and browsing on +the young shrubs. The cliff was divided by several shoulders or ridges, +there being hollows like vertical gullies between them, and up one of +these I scrambled, using the utmost caution not to dislodge earth or +stones. Finally I reached the bench just below the sky line, and then, +turning to the left, wriggled cautiously along it, hat in hand. The +cliff was so steep and bulged so in the middle, and, moreover, the +shoulders or projecting ridges in the surface spoken of above were so +pronounced, that I knew it was out of the question for the animal to +have seen me, but I was afraid it might have heard me. The air was +absolutely still, and so I had no fear of its sharp nose. Twice in +succession I peered with the utmost caution over shoulders of the cliff, +merely to see nothing beyond save another shoulder some forty or fifty +yards distant. Then I crept up to the edge and looked over the level +plateau. Nothing was in sight excepting the horses, and these were close +up to me, and, of course, they all raised their heads to look. I +nervously turned half round, sure that if the animal, whatever it was, +was in sight, it would promptly take the alarm. However, by good luck, +it appeared that at this time it was below the crest on the terrace or +bench already mentioned, and, on creeping to the next shoulder, I at +last saw it--a yearling mountain sheep--walking slowly away from me, and +evidently utterly unsuspicious of any danger. I straightened up, +bringing my rifle to my shoulder, and as it wheeled I fired, and the +sheep made two or three blind jumps in my direction. So close was I to +the camp, and so still was the cold morning, that I distinctly heard one +of the three men, who had remained clustered about the fire eagerly +watching my movements, call, "By George, he's missed; I saw the bullet +strike the cliff." I had fired behind the shoulders, and the bullet, of +course going through, had buried itself in the bluff beyond. The wound +was almost instantaneously fatal, and the sheep, after striving in vain +to keep its balance, fell heels over head down a crevice, where it +jammed. I descended, released the carcass and pitched it on ahead of me, +only to have it jam again near the foot of the cliff. Before I got it +loose I was joined by my three companions, who had been running headlong +toward me through the brush ever since the time they had seen the animal +fall. + +I never obtained another sheep under circumstances which seemed to me +quite so remarkable as these; for sheep are, on the whole, the wariest +of game. Nevertheless, with all game there is an immense amount of +chance in the chase, and it is perhaps not wholly uncharacteristic of a +hunter's luck that, after having hunted faithfully in vain and with much +hard labor for several days through a good sheep country, we should at +last have obtained one within sight and earshot of camp. Incidentally I +may mention that I have never tasted better mutton, or meat of any kind, +than that furnished by this tender yearling. + +In 1894, on the last day I spent at the ranch, and with the last bullet +I fired from my rifle, I killed a fine whitetail buck. I left the ranch +house early in the afternoon on my favorite pony, Muley, my foreman +riding with me. After going a couple of miles, by sheer good luck we +stumbled on three whitetail--a buck, a doe and a fawn--in a long winding +coulee, with a belt of timber running down its bottom. When we saw the +deer, they were trying to sneak off, and immediately my foreman galloped +toward one end of the coulee and started to ride down through it, while +I ran Muley to the other end to intercept the deer. They were, of +course, quite likely to break off to one side, but this happened to be +one of the occasions when everything went right. When I reached the spot +from which I covered the exits from the timber, I leaped off, and +immediately afterward heard a shout from my foreman that told me the +deer were on foot. Muley is a pet horse, and he enjoys immensely the +gallop after game; but his nerves invariably fail him at the shot. He +stood snorting beside me, and finally, as the deer came in sight, away +he tore--only to go about 200 yards, however, and stand and watch us +with his ears pricked forward until, when I needed him, I went for him. +At the moment, however, I paid no heed to Muley, for a cracking in the +brush told me the game was close, and in another moment I caught the +shadowy outlines of the doe and the fawn as they scudded through the +timber. By good luck, the buck, evidently flurried, came right on the +edge of the woods next to me, and, as he passed, running like a quarter +horse, I held well ahead of him and pulled the trigger. The bullet broke +his neck and down he went--a fine fellow with a handsome ten-point head, +and fat as a prize sheep; for it was just before the rut. Then we rode +home, and I sat in a rocking-chair on the ranch house veranda, looking +across the river at the strangely shaped buttes and the groves of +shimmering cottonwoods until the sun went down and the frosty air bade +me go in. + + * * * * * + +I wish that members of the Boone and Crockett Club, and big game hunters +generally, would make a point of putting down all their experiences with +game, and with any other markworthy beasts or birds, in the regions +where they hunt, which would be of interest to students of natural +history; noting any changes of habits in the animals and any causes that +tend to make them decrease in numbers, giving an idea of the times at +which the different larger beasts became extinct, and the like. Around +my ranch on the Little Missouri there have been several curious changes +in the fauna. Thus, magpies have greatly decreased in number, owing, I +believe, mainly to the wolf-hunters. Magpies often come around carcasses +and eat poisoned baits. I have seen as many as seven lying dead around a +bait. They are much less plentiful than they formerly were. In this last +year, 1894, I saw one large party; otherwise only two or three +stragglers. This same year I was rather surprised at meeting a +porcupine, usually a beast of the timber, at least twenty miles from +trees. He was grubbing after sagebrush roots on the edge of a cut bank +by a half-dried creek. I was stalking an antelope at the time, and +stopped to watch him for about five minutes. He paid no heed to me, +though I was within three or four paces of him. Both the luciver, or +northern lynx, and the wolverine have been found on the Little Missouri, +near the Kildeer Mountains, but I do not know of a specimen of either +that has been killed there for some years past. The blackfooted ferret +was always rare, and is rare now. But few beaver are left; they were +very abundant in 1880, but were speedily trapped out when the Indians +vanished and the Northern Pacific Railroad was built. While this +railroad was building, the bears frequently caused much trouble by +industriously damming the culverts. + +With us the first animal to disappear was the buffalo. In the old days, +say from 1870 to 1880, the buffalo were probably the most abundant of +all animals along the Little Missouri in the region that I know, +ranging, say, from Pretty Buttes to the Killdeer Mountains. They were +migratory, and at times almost all of them might leave; but, on the +whole, they were the most abundant of the game animals. In 1881 they +were still almost as numerous as ever. In 1883 all were killed but a few +stragglers, and the last of these stragglers that I heard of as seen in +our immediate neighborhood was in 1885. The second game animal in point +of abundance was the blacktail. It did not go out on the prairies, but +in the broken country adjoining the river it was far more plentiful than +any other kind of game. It is greatly reduced in numbers now. Blacktail +were not much slaughtered until the buffalo began to give out, say in +1882; but they are probably now not a twentieth as plentiful as they +were in that year. Elk were plentiful in 1880, though never anything +like as abundant as the buffalo and the blacktail. Only straggling +parties or individuals have been seen since 1883. The last I shot near +my ranch was in 1886; but two or three have been shot since, and a cow +and calf were seen, chased and almost roped by the riders on the +round-up in the fall of 1893. Doubtless one or two still linger even yet +in inaccessible places. Whitetail were never as numerous as the other +game, but they have held their own well. Though they have decreased in +numbers, the decrease is by no means as great as of the blacktail, and a +good many can be shot yet. A dozen years ago probably twenty blacktail +were killed for every one whitetail; now the numbers are about equal. +Antelope were plentiful in the old days, though not nearly so much so as +buffalo and blacktail. The hunters did not molest them while the buffalo +and elk lasted, and they then turned their attention to the blacktails. +For some years after 1880 I think the pronghorn in our neighborhood +positively increased in numbers. In 1886 I thought them more plentiful +than I had ever known them before. Since then they have decreased, and +in the last two years the decrease has been quite rapid. Mountain sheep +were never very plentiful, and during the last dozen years they have +decreased proportionately less than any other game. Bears have decreased +in numbers, and have become very shy and difficult to get at; they were +never plentiful. Cougars were always very scarce. + +There were two stages of hunting in our country, as in almost all other +countries similarly situated. In 1880 the Northern Pacific Railroad was +built nearly to the edge of the Bad Lands, and the danger of Indian war +was totally eliminated. A great inrush of hunters followed. In 1881, +1882 and 1883 buffalo, elk and blacktail were slaughtered in enormous +numbers, and a good many whitetail and prongbuck were killed too. By +1884 the game had been so thinned out that hide hunting and meat hunting +had ceased to pay. A few professional hunters remained, but most of them +moved elsewhere, or were obliged to go into other business. From that +time the hunting has chiefly been done by the ranchers and occasional +small grangers. In consequence, for six or eight years the game about +held its own--the antelope, as I have said above, at one time +increasing; but the gradual increase in the number of actual settlers is +now beginning to tell, and the game is becoming slowly scarcer. + +The only wild animals that have increased with us are the wolves. These +are more plentiful now than they were ten years ago. I have never known +them so numerous or so daring in their assaults on stock as in 1894. +They not only kill colts and calves, but full-grown steers and horses. +Quite a number have been poisoned, but they are very wary about taking +baits. Quite a number also have been roped by the men on the round-up +who have happened to run across them when gorged from feeding at a +carcass. Nevertheless, for the last few years they have tended to +increase in numbers, though they are so wary, and nowadays so strictly +nocturnal in their habits, that they are not often seen. This great +increase, following a great diminution, in the number of wolves along +the Little Missouri is very curious. Twenty years ago, or thereabouts, +wolves were common, and they were then frequently seen by every traveler +and hunter. With the advent of the wolfers, who poisoned them for their +skins, they disappeared, the disappearance being only partly explicable, +however, by the poisoning. For a number of years they continued scarce; +but during the last four or five they have again grown numerous, why I +cannot say. I wish that there were sufficient data at hand to tell +whether they have decreased during these four or five years in +neighboring regions, say in central and eastern Montana. Another curious +feature of the case is that the white wolves, which in the middle of +the century were so common in this region, are now very rare. I have +heard of but one, which was seen on the upper Cannon Ball in 1892. One +nearly black wolf was killed in 1893. + +I suppose all hunters are continually asked what rifles they use. Any +good modern rifle is good enough, and, after a certain degree of +excellence in the weapon is attained, the difference between it and a +somewhat better rifle counts for comparatively little compared to the +difference in the skill, nerve and judgment of the men using them. +Moreover, there is room for a great deal of individual variation of +opinion among experts as to rifles. I personally prefer the Winchester. +I used a .45-75 until I broke it in a fall while goat-hunting, and since +then I have used a .45-90. For my own use I consider either gun much +preferable to the .500 and .577 caliber double-barreled Express for use +with bears, buffalo, moose and elk; yet my brother, for instance, always +preferred the double-barreled Express; Mr. Theodore Van Dyke prefers the +large bore, and Mr. H. L. Stimson has had built a special .577 +Winchester, which he tells me he finds excellent for grizzly bears. +There is the same difference of opinion among men who hunt game on +other continents than ours. Thus, Mr. Royal Carroll, in shooting +rhinoceros, buffalo and the like in South Africa, preferred big, heavy +English double-barrels; while Mr. William Chanler, after trying these +same double-barrels, finally threw them aside in favor of the .45-90 +Winchester for use even against such large and thick-hided beasts as +rhinoceros. There was an amusing incident connected with Mr. Chanler's +experiences. In a letter to the London _Field_ he happened to mention +that he preferred, for rhinoceros and other large game, the .45-90 +Winchester to the double-barrel .577, so frequently produced by the +English gun makers. His letter was followed by a perfect chorus of +protests in the shape of other letters by men who preferred the +double-barrel. These men had a perfect right to their opinions, but the +comic feature of their letters was that, as a rule, they almost seemed +to think that Mr. Chanler's preference of the .45-90 repeater showed +some kind of moral delinquency on his part; while the gun maker, whose +double-barrel Mr. Chanler had discarded in favor of the Winchester, +solemnly produced tests to show that the bullets from his gun had more +penetration than those from the Winchester--which had no more to do with +the question than the production by the Winchester people of targets to +show that this weapon possessed superior accuracy would have had. Of +course, the element of penetration is only one of twenty entering into +the question; accuracy, handiness, rapidity of fire, penetration, +shock--all have to be considered. Penetration is useless after a certain +point has been reached. Shock is useless if it is gained at too great +expense of penetration or accuracy. Flatness of trajectory, though +admirable, is not as important as accuracy, and when gained at a great +expense of accuracy is simply a disadvantage. All of these points are +admirably discussed in Mr. A. C. Gould's "Modern American Rifles." In +the right place, a fair-sized bullet is as good as a very big one; in +the wrong place, the big one is best; but the medium one will do more +good in the right place than the big one away from its right place; and +if it is more accurate it is therefore preferable. + +Entirely apart from the merit of guns, there is a considerable element +of mere fashion in them. For the last twenty years there has been much +controversy between the advocates of two styles of rifles--that is, the +weapon with a comparatively small bore and long, solid bullet and a +moderate charge of powder, and the weapon of comparatively large bore +with a very heavy charge of powder and a short bullet, often with a +hollow end. The first is the type of rifle that has always been used by +ninety-nine out of a hundred American hunters, and indeed it is the only +kind of rifle that has ever been used to any extent in North America; +the second is the favorite weapon of English sportsmen in those grandest +of the world's hunting grounds, India and South Africa. When a +single-shot rifle is not used, the American usually takes a repeater, +the Englishman a double-barrel. Each type has some good qualities that +the other lacks, and each has some defects. The personal equation must +always be taken into account in dealing with either; excellent sportsmen +of equal experience give conflicting accounts of the performances of the +two types. Personally, I think that the American type is nearer right. +In reading the last book of the great South African hunter, Mr. Selous, +I noticed with much interest that in hunting elephants he and many of +the Dutch elephant hunters had abandoned the huge four and eight bores +championed by that doughty hunter, Sir Samuel Baker, and had adopted +precisely the type of rifle which was in almost universal use among the +American buffalo hunters from 1870 to 1883--that is, a rifle of .45 +caliber, shooting 75 grains of powder and a bullet of 550 grains. The +favorite weapon of the American buffalo hunter was a Sharps rifle of .45 +caliber, shooting about 550 grains of lead and using ordinarily 90 to +110 grains of powder--which, however, was probably not as strong as the +powder used by Mr. Selous; in other words, the types of gun were +identically the same. I have elsewhere stated that by actual experience +the big double-barreled English eight and ten bores were found inferior +to Sharps rifle for bison-hunting on the Western plains. I know nothing +about elephant or rhinoceros shooting; but my own experience with bison, +bear, moose and elk has long convinced me that for them and for all +similar animals (including, I have no doubt, the lion and tiger) the +.45-90 type of repeater is, on the whole, the best of the existing +sporting rifles for my own use. I have of late years loaded my +cartridges not with the ordinary rifle powder, but with 85 grains of +Orange lightning, and have used a bullet with 350 grains of lead, and +then have bored a small hole, taking out 15 or 20 grains, in the point; +but for heavy game I think the solid bullet better. Judging from what I +have been told by some of my friends, however, it seems not unlikely +that the best sporting rifle will ultimately prove to be the very small +caliber repeating rifle now found in various forms in the military +service of all countries--a caliber of say .256 or .310, with 40 grains +of powder and a 200-grain bullet. These rifles possess marvelous +accuracy and a very flat trajectory. The speed of the bullet causes it +to mushroom if made of lead, and gives it great penetration if hardened. +Certain of my friends have used rifles of this type on bears, caribou +and deer; they were said to be far superior to the ordinary sporting +rifle. A repeating rifle of this type is really merely a much more +perfect form of the repeating rifles that have for so long been +favorites with American hunters. + +But these are merely my personal opinions; and, as I said before, among +the many kinds of excellent sporting rifles turned out by the best +modern makers each has its special good points and its special defects; +and equally good sportsmen, of equally wide experience, will be found to +vary widely in their judgment of the relative worth of the different +weapons. Some people can do better with one rifle and some with another, +and in the long run it is "the man behind the gun" that counts most. + +_Theodore Roosevelt._ + + + + +Wolf-Coursing + + +While wolf-coursing is one of the most thrilling and exciting sports to +be enjoyed in this country, it is less indulged in than any other sport; +this, too, in the face of the fact that no country offers such excellent +opportunities for its practice. This is, no doubt, due to the fact that +it is a sport requiring special preparation, a thorough knowledge of +both the game and country, and is very trying on horse, rider and hound. +Russia seems to be the only country in which it has a foothold and a +permanent place in the hearts of its sportsmen. In fact, with the +Russians it might be called a national pastime. However, did it require +in this country the same outlay of money, time and preparation that it +does in Russia, I doubt very much its advancement as a sport. + +There are really but two species of wolf in this country--the timber +wolf, generally called the gray, and the prairie wolf or coyote. In +different sections one hears of other varieties; but these, I believe, +are merely variations in color and size, and are not specific +differences. While the habits of the coyote or prairie wolf are well +known to a majority of sportsmen, it is not so with the timber or gray +wolf, and a few words in regard to the latter will not be amiss. + +[Illustration: THE WOLF THROWING ZLOOEM.] + +My experience is that the wolves of Montana and Wyoming are larger, +stronger and fiercer than those further south, though it is a fact that +the largest single wolf that I ever saw killed was in Arizona. However, +he was an exception to the general run of them there. If we may judge of +the Russian or European wolf from specimens to be seen in menageries and +zoological gardens, the American wolf, while not so tall or leggy, is +more compact, with heavier head, coarser muzzle, smaller ears, and +perhaps a little heavier in weight--the American wolf standing from 29 +to 36 inches at shoulder, and weighing from 85 to 125 pounds. I am also +inclined to think that the American wolf is, when run down to a +death-finish, a much more formidable foe for dogs than his European +relative. I reached this conclusion only after hunting them with +high-priced hounds, that had won medals in Russia for wolf-killing, but +which demonstrated their utter inability even to hold American wolves. + +Alive, the wolf is the enemy of man and beast, and when dead he is +almost useless. His skin has but little commercial value, and even dogs +refuse to eat his flesh. I have never known dogs to tear and mutilate a +wolf's carcass, and verily believe they would starve to death before +eating its flesh. And yet I have read accounts of hunters feeding their +dogs upon wolf meat. I recall an effort I made to cultivate in my dogs a +taste for wolf meat. I cut up a quantity of bear meat into small strips +and tossed them to the dogs, which would gulp them down before they +could fall upon the ground. Substituting a piece of wolf meat was of no +avail; they detected it instantly, and those which were fooled into +swallowing it immediately lost interest in the proceedings and walked +away. + +The wolf is by nature cowardly, being deficient in courage comparative +to his strength and great size, but he often becomes courageous from +necessity. When reduced to extremity by hunger, he braves danger, and +has been known in numbers to attack man, though no such incident ever +came under my personal observation. I have had them dog my footsteps +throughout a long day's hunt, always managing to remain just beyond +gunshot distance; and upon one occasion, when I had shot a pheasant, one +actually carried it off in full view before I could reach it, and, +notwithstanding I fired several shots that must have come uncomfortably +close, he made off with his dangerously earned meal. + +As a general thing, however, the wolf manifests a desire to run, rather +than fight, for life, and when alone will frequently tuck his tail +between his legs, and run like a stricken cur from a dog that he could +easily crush out of existence. They are great believers in the maxim, +"In union there is strength." The female, while apparently more timid +than the male, seems to lose all sense of danger when hemmed in and +forced to a fight, and attacks with intrepidity. I once shot a female at +long range, the bullet from my Winchester passing through her hind +quarters and breaking both legs. When I got up to her, she was +surrounded by the ranch dogs--an odd assortment of "mongrel puppy, whelp +and hound, and cur of low degree"--furiously attacking first one, then +another of them as they circled around her; and, though she was +partially paralyzed, dragging her hind quarters, she successfully stood +off the entire pack until another bullet ended the struggle. When in +whelp they fight with great obstinacy, and defend themselves with +intrepidity, being seemingly insensible to punishment. When captured +young they are susceptible of taming and domestication, though they are +never free from treachery. Though I have heard it denied, I know it to +be a fact that the dog has been successfully crossed upon the wolf. I +saw any number of the produce around the old Spotted Tail agency. They +closely resembled wolves, and were hardly distinguishable from them in +appearance, though generally lacking the good qualities of faithfulness +and attachment possessed by the dog. + +The amount of damage a wolf can do in a horse or cattle country is +almost beyond belief. He slaughters indiscriminately, carrying waste and +destruction to any section he honors with his presence. When a pack of +these nocturnal marauders come across an unprotected flock of sheep, a +sanguinary massacre occurs, and not until they have killed, torn or +mangled the entire flock will they return to the mountains. Thus the +wolves become a scourge, and their depredations upon herds of sheep and +cattle cause no inconsiderable loss to the rancher. They frequently +plunder for days and nights together. I am not prepared to state whether +it is owing to daintiness of appetite or pure love of killing, but as it +is a fact that a single wolf has been known to kill a hundred sheep in a +night, it would seem that this indiscriminate slaughter was more to +satisfy his malignity than his hunger. It is a prevalent idea that the +wolf will eat putrid meat. This I have not found to be true. He seldom +if ever devours carcasses after they begin to putrify, choosing to hunt +for fresh spoils rather than to return to that which he had half +devoured, before leaving it to the tender mercies of the coyotes, who +have an appetite less nice. + +The coyote is a good scavenger, following in the footsteps of the wolf, +and will pick bones until they glisten like ivory. His fondness for +domestic fowl and his thieving propensity often embolden him to enter +farmyards and even residences during the daytime; yet he often seems +contented to dine upon corrupt flesh, bones, hair, old boots and +saddles, and many remarkable gastronomic performances are credited to +him. I had occasion to "sleep out" one night in the Powder River +country, and, after picketing my horse, I threw my saddle upon the +ground near the picket pin, and, placing my cartridge belt beneath the +saddle--which I used as a pillow--I was soon sound asleep. Imagine my +surprise at daybreak--knowing there was not a human being within fifty +miles of me--to find that my cartridge belt was missing. After a short +search I found the cartridges some few hundred yards away, and a few +remnants of the belt. The coyotes had actually stolen this from under my +head without disturbing me, devoured it and licked all the grease from +the cartridges. I felt thankful that they had not devoured my rawhide +riata. + +Of all animals that I have hunted, I consider the wolf the hardest to +capture or kill. There is only one way in which he can be successfully +coped with, and that is with a pack of dogs trained to the purpose and +thoroughly understanding their business. Dogs, as a rule, have +sufficient combativeness to assail any animal, and, as a general thing, +two or three of them can easily kill another animal of same size and +weight; but the wolf, with his wonderful vitality and tenacity of life, +combined with his thickness of skin, matted hair and resistant muscles, +is anything but an easy victim for even six or eight times his number. + +I spent the winter of 1874-75 in a portion of the Rocky Mountains +uninhabited except by our own party. Wolves were very plentiful, and we +determined to secure as many pelts as possible. Owing to the rough +nature of the country and our inability to keep up with the dogs on +horseback, we tried poisoning, but with only moderate success. While +others claim it is an easy matter to poison wolves, we did not find it +so. In a country where game is plentiful, it is almost impossible to +poison them. We tried trapping them, with like results. Always +mistrustful and intensely suspicious, they imagine everything unusual +they see is a trap laid to betray or capture them, and with extreme +sagacity avoid everything strange and new. When caught, they frequently +gnaw off a foot or leg rather than be taken. Our cabin was surrounded by +a stockade wall, over which we could throw such portions of deer +carcasses as we did not use, and at nightfall the wolves, attracted by +the smell of the meat, would assemble on the outside, and we shot them +from the portholes. It required a death shot; for, if only wounded, no +matter how badly, they would manage to get far enough away from the +stockade to be torn into shreds by the survivors before we could drive +them off. I have always found the wolf a most difficult animal to shoot. +Endowed with wonderful powers of scent and extremely cunning, it is +almost impossible to stalk them. Frequently, after a long stalk after +one, have I raised my head to find him gone, his nose having warned him +of my approach. + +The successful chase of the wolf requires a species of knowledge that +can be acquired only by experience. It also requires men, horses and +dogs trained and disciplined for the purpose; and woe to the man, horse +or dog that undertakes it without such preparation. The true sportsman +is not a blood-thirsty animal. The actual killing of an animal, its mere +death, is not sport. Therefore, upon several occasions, I have declined +to join a general wolf round-up, where men form a cordon, and, by +beating the country, drive them to a common center and kill them +indiscriminately. I have always preferred hunting them with hounds to +any other method of extermination. The enjoyment of sport increases in +proportion to the amount of danger to man and beast engaged in it, and +for this reason coursing wolves has always held a peculiar fascination +for me. A number of years spent in the far West afforded me ample +opportunity to indulge my tastes in this line of sport, so my knowledge +of wolf-hunting and the habits of the wolf has been derived from +personal experience and from association with famous hunters. + +The principal drawback to the pleasure of wolf-coursing is the danger to +a good horse from bad footing, and the possible mutilation and death of +a favorite dog--death and destruction of hounds being often attendant +upon the capture and death of a full-grown wolf. I do not know that I +can give a better idea of the sport than by describing a day's +wolf-hunting I enjoyed in the early seventies near Raw Hide Butte, in +Wyoming. + +We had notified the cook, an odd character who went by the name of +Steamboat, to call us by daybreak. As we sat up late talking about the +anticipated pleasures of the morrow, it seemed to me that I had hardly +closed my eyes when Steamboat's heavy cavalry boots were heard beating a +tattoo on the shack door. I rolled out of my bunk, to find Maje and +Zach, my companions in the hunt, dressed and pulling on their shaps. +Hastily dressing, I followed them out to the corral just as the gray +tints of earliest morning were gathering in the sky. The horses had been +corralled the night before, and, with Steamboat standing in the door, +using anything but choice language at our delay in coming to breakfast, +we saddled up. Having ridden my own horse, a sturdy half-breed from Salt +Lake, very hard the day before in running down a wounded antelope, I +decided on a fresh mount; and, as luck would have it, I selected one of +the best lookers in the band, only to find out later, to my sorrow, that +I had fallen upon the only bucking horse in the lot. While we +breakfasted upon antelope steak, flapjacks and strong coffee, Steamboat +was harnessing a couple of wiry cayuses to a buckboard, and, as we came +out, we found him with the strike dogs chained to the seat behind him, +impatient to be off. The party consisted of Maje, a long-legged, +slab-sided, six-foot Kentuckian, mounted on a "States" horse; Zach, an +out-and-out typical cowboy, who had come up from Texas on the trail, +mounted on a pinto that did not look as though he had been fed since his +arrival in the territory, but, as Zach knowingly remarked, "No route was +too long or pace too hot for him"; Steamboat in the buckboard, holding +with a pair of slips Dan, an English greyhound, and Scotty, a Scotch +deerhound; while the other dogs, consisting of a pair of young +greyhounds, a pair of cross-bred grey and deerhounds, and Lead, an +old-time Southern foxhound, were making the horses miserable by jumping +first at their heads, then at their heels, in their eagerness to +facilitate the start; and myself on the bucking broncho. + +While crossing the creek a few hundred yards above the ranch, I heard +old Lead give mouth, a short distance ahead, in a chaparral rendered +impenetrable by tangled undergrowth, and which formed secure covert for +countless varmints. Knowing that he never threw his tongue without +cause, I dug my spurs into my horse, with the intention of joining him. +But I reckoned without my host, and for the next few minutes all my +energies were devoted to sticking to my horse, who then and there in the +creek bed proceeded to give an illustration of bucking that would have +put the wild West buckers to shame. Lead had jumped a coyote that put +off with all the speed that deadly terror could impart--all the dogs +after him full tilt. It required quite a display of energy upon the part +of Zach and his pinto to whip the dogs off; and, had it not been for the +fact that Dan and Scotty--who had jerked Steamboat literally out of the +buckboard and raced off together with the slips dangling about their +heels--ran into a bush, and the slips catching held them fast, we would +have been called upon to participate in a coyote and not a +wolf-hunt--as, when once slipped, no human power could have stopped +these dogs until they had tested the metal of Brer Coyote. By the time +Zach and the dogs returned, I had convinced my broncho that I was not a +tenderfoot, having "been there before," and he was contented to keep at +least two feet upon the ground at the same time. + +We rode probably five or six miles, carefully scanning the trackless +plains, without sighting a wolf, when Maje, who had ridden off a mile +to our right, was seen upon a butte wildly waving his hat. We +instinctively knew that game was afoot, and, as he disappeared, we +commenced a wild stampede for the butte. Steamboat, with slips and reins +in one hand and blacksnake whip in the other, came thundering after us, +lashing his team into a wild, mad run--and how he managed to hold +himself and dogs on the bounding buckboard was a mystery to me. Reaching +the butte, we espied Maje a mile away, riding for dear life. It did not +take long to decide, from the general direction taken, that the wolf +would shortly return to us. Keeping well back out of sight, we +impatiently awaited his return, and, had it not been for the pure +malignity of my broncho, the wolf would have doubled back within a few +hundred yards of us, and a close race have resulted. + +I had taken the dogs from Steamboat, and, with the release cord of the +slips around my wrist, sat in the saddle ready to sight and slip the +dogs. Becoming impatient under the restraint, the dogs ran behind my +horse, and, as the strap of the slips got under his tail, he again +commenced bucking, and before I could control him we were in full view +of the wolf, which, upon sighting us, veered off to the left. Although +not over a half mile away, the dogs failed to sight him. With a cheer to +the loose dogs, we pushed forward at top speed, the cracking of the +quirts upon our horses' flanks being echoed in the rear by the incessant +popping of Steamboat's whip as he lashed the panting cayuses to the top +of their speed in a vain effort to keep up with us. + +We joined Maje at the point where we had last seen the wolf, which by +this time had disappeared. Going over a rise, we dropped down into an +arroyo, where the foxhound again gave tongue, and started back on the +trail almost in the same direction in which we had come. Thinking that +for once he was at fault, and back-tracking, I took the two dogs in +slips up the arroyo, while Maje, Zach and the pack of dogs followed the +foxhound, and were soon out of sight and hearing. Circling around for +some distance and seeing no sign of the wolf, I rode upon a high point, +and, searching the country carefully through my glasses, I could see the +party probably a mile and a half away; and, from the manner in which +they were getting over the ground, I knew they had again sighted. A +hard ride of two miles, in which the dogs almost dragged me from my +horse in their eagerness, brought me within sighting distance of the +dogs--the voice of the foxhound, which was in the rear, floating back to +me in strong and melodious tones across the plains. Slipping Dan and +Scotty, they went from the slips like a pair of bullets and soon left me +far behind. Upon rounding a point of rocks, I saw one of the young dogs +lying upon the ground. A hasty glance showed me, from the violent manner +in which he strained to catch his breath, that he had tackled the wolf +and his windpipe was injured. It afterward developed that he had become +separated from the pack, and, in cutting across country, had imprudently +taken hold of the wolf, which, with one snap of his powerful jaws, had +utterly disabled him, and then continued his flight. Like most wolves, +he seemed to be able to keep up the pace he had set over all kinds of +ground. It seemed to him a matter of indifference whether the way was up +or down hill, and he evidently sought the roughest and stoniest ground, +following ravines and coulees--this giving him a great advantage over +horses and hounds. My horse beginning to show signs of distress, I +realized that, if the chase was to be a straightaway, I would see but +little of it and probably not be in at the death anyway; so I again +sought a high point that gave a commanding view over a large area of +country, and determined to await developments. Every once in a while, +with the aid of my glasses, I could see the pack, fairly well bunched, +straining every muscle, running as though for life. I could catch +occasional glimpses of the wolf far in advance, as he scurried through +the sagebrush, showing little power of strategy, but a determined +obstinacy to outfoot his relentless foes. + +Fortune again favored me. By degrees the superior speed and stamina of +the hounds began to tell, though both seemed to be running with +undiminished speed. The wolf, finding that, with all his speed and +cunning, they were slowly but surely overtaking him, circled in my +direction, and I was soon again an important factor in the hunt, urging +the dogs with shouts of encouragement. I was now near enough to note +that one of the young greyhounds, which had evidently been running +cunning by lying back and cutting across, was far in advance of the +pack--not over 100 yards behind the wolf, and gaining rapidly. Striking +a rise in the ground, he overtook the wolf and seized him by the +shoulder. The wolf seemed to drag him several yards before he reached +around, and with his powerful, punishing jaws gave him a slash that laid +his skull bare and rolled him over on the prairie. + +Slight as this interruption was, it encouraged Dan to greater effort, +and the next minute he had distanced the pack, nailed the wolf by the +jowl, and over they went, wolf on top. Scotty was but a few paces +behind, and, taking a hind hold, tried to stretch him. With a mighty +effort the wolf tore himself loose from both and started to run again. +He had not gone thirty paces before Scotty bowled him over again. +Rising, he sullenly faced his foes, who, with wholesome respect for his +glistening ivories, seemed to hesitate while recovering their wind, as +they were sadly blown after their long run, the day being an intensely +hot one. At this point I rode up. The wolf lay closely hugging the +ground, his swollen tongue protruding from foam-flecked chops, and with +keen and wary eye he watched the maddened pack circling about looking +for a vulnerable point. Varied experience in the art of self-defense +had taught him skill and quickness, and as each dog essayed to assail +him he found a threatening array of teeth. Throwing myself from the +saddle, I cheered them on. Dan and Scotty hesitated no longer, but +rushed savagely at him, one on either side, and the whole pack, +including the one recently scalped, regardless of his gaping wound, +followed them. + +For a few minutes the pile resembled a struggling mass of dogs, and the +air seemed filled with flying hair, fur and foam, and the snapping of +teeth was like castanets. At first the wolf seemed only intent upon +shaking off his foes and escaping, but the punishment he was receiving +could not long be borne; and from then on to the last gasp, with eyes +flaming with rage, every power seemingly put forth, he fought like a +demon possessed. As he tossed the dogs about, seemingly breaking their +hold at will, I was singularly impressed with his enormous size and +strength, his shaggy appearance and his generally savage look, and +suggested to Maje and Zach, who had come up in the meantime, that we +take a hand in the fray, as I doubted the ability of the dogs to finish +him without serious loss. However, we decided to give them the +opportunity, and ere long they had him _hors de combat_, stretched upon +the ground, his body crimson with his own life's blood, in the last +throes of death. He was one of the largest specimens I had ever seen, +weighing not less than 120 pounds, the green pelt weighing twenty-four. +His carcass, when stood up alongside of Scotty, seemed several inches +taller, and I afterward measured the latter and found him to be +thirty-one inches. + +All of the dogs received more or less punishment; none escaped +scathless, but really much less damage was done than I expected. This +was owing to the fact that Dan and Scotty, two of the staunchest seizers +I ever saw, engaged him constantly in front, while the other dogs +literally disemboweled him. Scotty had a bad cut on the side of the +neck, requiring several stitches to close, and the muscles of his +shoulder were laid bare; while Dan's most serious hurt was a cut from +dome of skull to corner of eye, from which he never entirely recovered, +as he ever afterward had a weeping eye. One of the cross-breeds, whose +pads were not well indurated, suffered from lacerated feet, and one of +his stoppers was torn almost off, necessitating removal. A wolf's bite +is both cruel and dangerous, and wounds on dogs are obstinate and very +hard to heal--more so than those of any other animal. While skinning the +wolf, our horses were standing with lowered heads, heaving flanks, +shaking and trembling limbs; my horse, much to my satisfaction, +evidently without a good buck left in him. + +After a full hour's rest for man and beast, we started back to the +ranch. Taking Steamboat with the buckboard, I went back to the point of +rocks with the intention of taking up the injured dog. Upon arrival +there no trace of him could be found; he had mysteriously disappeared. +Thinking that he had recovered sufficiently to make his way back to the +ranch, we increased our speed and soon joined the others, who had been +heading directly for home. The ride home was devoid of incident, the +monotony being occasionally broken by our frantic efforts to restrain +the dogs from chasing innumerable jack rabbits that bounded away on +three legs, in their most tantalizing way, inviting us to a chase. We +also got within rifle shot of a band of antelope, seeming quite at ease, +feeding and gamboling sportively with each other, until a pistol shot +at long range sent them skimming gracefully over the plains, finally +vanishing like a flying shadow in the distance. While crossing the creek +below, and within sight of the ranch, we again heard Lead give tongue in +the chaparral above the ranch, and in a few minutes he had a coyote +busy, doubtless the same one we had disturbed in taking a constitutional +in the morning. The dogs, now a sorry looking set, had been jogging +lazily along behind us, but in a moment were all life and action. Their +spirits were contagious, and, though we had positively agreed under no +circumstances to run a coyote, we very soon found ourselves flying after +the vanishing pack in full pursuit. A pretty race ensued. When first +dislodged the coyote appeared lame to such an extent that I thought his +leg broken; but after warming up this affection entirely disappeared, +and the pace was a hot one for the first mile. The dogs ran well +together, and were gradually lessening the gap between them and their +wily foe, who, realizing this, displayed tact in selecting the very +worst possible ground for footing, and soon regained his lost vantage. +It began to look as though the coyote would again give us the slip, +when one of the young dogs, that Zach in his excitement had ridden over +several minutes before and presumably killed, was seen to dash out from +a draw and bowl over the coyote. His hold was not a good one, but he +succeeded in turning the coyote, who then made a straight line for a +bunch of cattle grazing near, becoming temporarily unsighted among the +cattle. The dogs again fell behind, and when again sighted the coyote +was making a bee line for the ranch. By the time the creek was reached, +he was in evident distress and sorely pressed. With a final effort he +dashed through the creek up the opposite bank, and, as he dodged into +the open corral gate, one of the greyhounds flicked the hair from his +hind quarters. It was his last effort. By the time we reached the +corral, he was being literally pulled to pieces. We could not see that +he made additional wounds upon any of the dogs. In the excitement of the +finish of the chase I had lost Maje, and it was only after the death in +the corral that I missed him. Going to the adobe wall, I peered over and +saw him some distance away standing beside his horse. Upon going back to +him, we found that his horse had stepped into a prairie dog hole, +throwing him violently, and, turning a somersault, had landed upon him. +The only damage to Maje was, he had been converted for the time being +into a cactus pincushion; but his "States" horse had broken his fore leg +at the pastern joint and had to be shot. + +After the long run of the morning, this race afforded us ample scope for +testing both the speed and staying qualities of the dogs as well as of +our horses. + +We were disappointed in not finding the injured dog at the ranch. In +fact, he was never afterward heard of, and doubtless crawled away among +the rocks and died alone. After sewing up Scotty's wounds, dressing the +minor cuts of the other dogs and removing the cactus and prickly pear +points from their feet (the latter not a small job by any means), we +were soon doing full justice to Steamboat's satisfying if not appetizing +meal. + +In contrast to our simple preparations and equipment for this, an +average wolf-hunt in that country, wolf-hunts in Russia, as described to +me by my friend, St. Allen, of St. Petersburg, are certainly grand +affairs; but when the two methods of hunting are compared, I cannot but +believe that the balance of sport is in our favor. + +I have frequently been asked what breed of dogs I consider best for +wolf-hunting. Having tried nearly all kinds, experience and observation +justify me in asserting that the greyhound is undoubtedly the best. In +the first place, there is no question of their ability to catch wolves, +and, when properly bred and reared, their courage is undoubted. It is a +general supposition that the greyhound is devoid of the power of scent. +This is a mistake, as can be attested by anyone who has ever hunted them +generally in the West upon large game, especially wolves, which give a +stronger scent than any other animal. Of course, this power is not as +well developed in the greyhound as in other breeds, because the uses to +which he is put do not require scent, and, under the law of evolution, +it has deteriorated as a natural consequence. Unrivaled in speed and +endurance, these qualities have been developed and bred for, while the +olfactory organs have been necessarily neglected by restricting the work +of the dogs to sight hunting. Experience has taught me that they are the +only breed of dogs that, without special training or preparation, will +take hold and stay in the fight with the first wolf they encounter until +they have killed him. I have heard it said that this was because they +did not have sense enough to avoid a wolf. At all events, it is a fact +that they will unhesitatingly take hold of a wolf when dogs older, +stronger and better adapted to fighting will refuse to do so. I have +found that, while all dogs will hunt or run a fox spontaneously, with +seeming pleasure, they have a natural repugnance and great aversion to +the proverbially offensive odor peculiar to the wolf. I once hunted a +pack of high-bred foxhounds, noted for their courage. They had not only +caught and killed scores of red foxes, but had also been used in running +down and killing sheep-killing dogs. Though they had never seen a wolf, +I did not doubt for an instant that they would kill one. While they +trailed and ran him true, pulling him down in a few miles, they utterly +refused to break him up when caught. The following extract, from an +article I wrote some years ago on the "Greyhound," for the "American +Book of the Dog," expresses my views of the courage and adaptability of +the greyhound for wolf-hunting: + +"A general impression prevails that the greyhound is a timid animal, +lacking heart and courage. This may be true of some few strains of the +breed, but, could the reader have ridden several courses with me at +meetings of the American Coursing Club which I have judged, and have +seen greyhounds, as I have seen them, run until their hind legs refused +to propel them further, and then crawl on their breasts after a +thoroughly used up jack rabbit but a few feet in advance, the singing +and whistling in their throats plainly heard at fifty yards, literally +in the last gasp of death, trying to catch their prey, he or she would +agree with me in crediting them with both the qualities mentioned." + +In hunting the antelope, it is not an uncommon thing to see a greyhound, +especially in hot weather, continue the chase until he dies before his +master reaches him. An uninjured antelope is capable of giving any +greyhound all the work he can stand, and unless the latter is in prime +condition his chances are poor indeed to throttle. A peculiar feature of +the greyhound is that he always attacks large game in the throat, head +or fore part of the body. I have even seen them leave the line of the +jack rabbit to get at his throat. Old "California Joe," at one time +chief of scouts with Gen. Custer, in 1875 owned a grand specimen of the +greyhound called Kentuck, presented to him by Gen. Custer. I saw this +dog, in the Big Horn country, seize and throw a yearling bull buffalo, +which then dragged the dog on his back over rough stones, trampled and +pawed him until his ears were split, two ribs broken, and neck and fore +shoulders frightfully cut and lacerated, yet he never released his hold +until a Sharps rifle bullet through the heart of the buffalo ended the +unequal struggle. Talk about a lack of courage! I have seen many a +greyhound single-handed and alone overhaul and tackle a coyote, and in a +pack have seen them close in and take hold of a big gray timber wolf or +a mountain lion and stay throughout the fight, coming out bleeding and +quivering, with hardly a whole skin among them. In point of speed, +courage, fortitude, endurance and fine, almost human judgment, no +grander animal lives than the greyhound. He knows no fear; he turns from +no game animal on which he is sighted, no matter how large or how +ferocious. He pursues with the speed of the wind, seizes the instant he +comes up with the game, and stays in the fight until either he or the +quarry is dead. Of all dogs these are the highest in ambition and +courage, and, when sufficiently understood, they are capable of great +attachment. + +In selecting dogs for wolf-killing, the most essential qualities to be +desired are courage, strength and stamina to sustain continued exertion, +with plenty of force and dash. Training is a matter requiring unlimited +patience, coupled with firmness and judgment, and a large amount of love +for a dog. It also requires constant watchfulness of a dog's every +movement and mood to make a successful wolf-courser of him. Many a good +dog has been ruined at the outset by not being fully understood. + +They should receive their first practical work when about one year old, +provided they are sufficiently developed to stand the hard work +necessary. They generally have mind enough at this age to know what is +expected of them. It is, of course, better to hunt a young dog first +with older and experienced dogs, which will take hold of any kind of +game. The larger and stronger the dog, the better; for it requires +immense powers of endurance, hardihood and strength to hold, much less +kill, a wolf. The latter are particularly strong in the fore quarters +and muscles of the neck and jaw. As an evidence of their great strength, +I saw a wolf, while running at full speed, seize the Siberian wolfhound +Zlooem by the shoulder and throw him bodily into the air, landing him on +his back several feet away, and yet this wolf did not weigh as much as +the dog. + +Particular care should be taken to see that a young dog gets started +right in his practical training. Encourage him with your presence; do +all you can to see that he is sighted promptly; spare no expense or +pains in getting a good mount, and keep as close as possible during the +fighting; enliven him with your voice, and encourage him to renewed +effort; for his ardor increases in proportion to the encouragement and +praise received. Ride hard, to be in early at the death. His confidence +once gained, he will place implicit reliance in your assistance; but, +let him be beaten off once or twice through lack of encouragement, and +he will soon lose his relish for the sport and show a disposition to +hang back; while he may seem to be doing his best, a practiced eye will +soon detect a want of ardor and dash. A pack of hounds, with a good +strike dog and confidence in their owner, will carry everything before +them; by keeping them in good heart they always expect success to crown +their efforts. + +If from any cause in the final struggle the dogs are getting the worst +of it, or the other dogs refuse to assist the seizers, one must not +hesitate an instant about assisting them; this requires perfect +coolness, self-control and presence of mind, so as not to injure the +dog. To attempt the use of the pistol or gun is too dangerous. A +well-directed blow with a good strong hunting knife, delivered between +the shoulders, will generally break the spine, leaving the wolf entirely +at the mercy of the hounds. + +I would advise no one to attempt the Russian method of taping the jaws +while the wolf is held by the seizers. I had an experience of this kind +once. After a long chase, the wolf, in his efforts to escape, leaped a +wall, and, in alighting upon the farther side, thrust his head and neck +through a natural loop formed by a grapevine growing around a tree. +Reaching him as soon as the hounds, I fought them off; but, although he +was virtually as fast as if in a vise, it required the united efforts of +five of us to bind his legs and tape his jaws, and this was only +accomplished after a severe struggle of some minutes. I am sure I would +not have trusted any dog or dogs I ever hunted to have held him during +this operation. + +One should always be provided with a spool of surgeon's silk and a +needle, for these will assuredly be called into use. Old Major, a +greyhound owned by Dr. Van Hummel and myself, full of years and honors, +is still alive. He was a typical seizer and afraid of nothing that wore +hair. His entire body is seamed with innumerable scars, and has been +sewed up so often that he resembles a veritable piece of needlework. As +an evidence of his speed, strength and early training, I recollect that, +shortly after I had hunted him in the West, I had him at my home in +Kentucky. The Doctor was on a visit to me, and we had taken Major to the +country with us while inspecting stock farms. At Wyndom Place, where we +were admiring a handsome two-year-old Longfellow colt, running loose in +the field, the owner, before we were aware of his intention, set Major +after the colt "to show his speed and style." We both instantly saw his +error, but it was too late--we could not call the dog off. He soon +overhauled the colt, and, springing at his throat, down they went in a +heap--the colt, worth a thousand dollars, ruined for life. + +One of the most glaring instances of improper training and handling of +wolfhounds that ever came under my observation was the Colorado +wolf-hunt that attracted so much attention in the sporting press of this +country, England and Russia. Mr. Paul Hacke, an enthusiastic fancier, of +Pittsburg, Pa., while in Russia attended a wolf-killing contest in which +the barzois contested with captive wolves. He became so much enamored of +the sport that he purchased a number of trained barzois and brought them +to this country. They were a handsome lot and attracted much attention +while being exhibited at the bench shows. I was one of the official +judges at the Chicago Bench Show in 1892, and wolfhound classes were +assigned me. While I admired them very much for their handsome, showy +appearance, I expressed grave doubts as to their ability to catch and +kill timber wolves, notwithstanding I had read graphic accounts of +their killing coyotes in thirty-five seconds. This doubt was shared and +expressed by others present who had had practical experience in +wolf-hunting. This coming to the ears of Mr. Hacke, who is always +willing to back his opinion with his money, he issued a sweeping +challenge offering to match a pair of barzois against any pair of dogs +in the United States for a wolf-killing contest, for $500 a side. His +challenge was promptly accepted by Mr. Geo. McDougall, of Butte City, +Montana. + +I was selected to judge the match, and in the spring of 1892 we made up +a congenial carload and journeyed to Hardin, in the wilds of Colorado, +where our sleeper was sidetracked. Arrangements were made at an +adjoining horse ranch, and every morning a band of horses was promptly +on hand at daylight. On the night of our arrival at Hardin, a fine +saddle horse had been hamstrung in his owner's stable by wolves. It was +a pitiful sight, and added zest to our determination to exterminate as +many as possible. + +We were awakened from our sound sleep the first morning by the familiar +sounds of saddling, accompanied by the pawing and bucking of horses, +swearing of men, and snarling and growling of dogs. After a hasty +breakfast, eaten by lamplight, we were soon mounted and in motion for +the rendezvous. We had hardly crossed the Platte River, near which our +camp was located, before the advance guard announced a wolf in full +flight. A glance through my field-glasses convinced me that it was an +impudent coyote, and we continued our search. We had probably ridden an +hour through sand and cactus before one of the hunters had a wolf up and +going. + +McDougall had selected Black Sam, a cross between a deerhound and a +greyhound, as his first representative, and he was accordingly in the +slips with a magnificent-looking barzoi representing Mr. Hacke. Porter, +from Salt Lake, the slipper and an old-time hunter, had all he could do +to hold them until the word to slip was given. They went away from the +slips in great style, the barzoi getting a few feet the best of it; but +in the lead up to the wolf the cross-breed made a go-by, and, overtaking +the flying wolf, unhesitatingly seized and turned it. Before it could +straighten out for another run, the barzoi was upon it, and +unfortunately took a hind hold, which it easily broke. The cross-breed, +without having received a cut or even a pinch, lost all interest in the +proceedings, and stood around looking on as unconcerned as though there +was not a wolf within a hundred miles; and, though the wolf assumed a +combative attitude, at bay, ready to do battle, and made no effort to +avoid her canine foes, neither dog could be induced to tackle her again. +The barzoi acted as though he was willing if any assistance was afforded +by the half-breed. Neither of these dogs showed any evidence of +cowardice, in my opinion, though credited with it by representatives of +the press present. The evidences of this feeling are unmistakable, and I +have seen fear and terror too often expressed by dogs, when attacked or +run by wolves, not to recognize it when present. They did not turn a +hair, and walked about within twenty feet of the wolf with their tails +carried as gayly as though they were on exhibition at a bench show. Very +different was the action of a rancher's dog, evidently a cross between a +St. Bernard and a mastiff, that came up at this stage of the game. As +soon as he caught sight of the wolf, every hair on his back reversed, +his tail drooped between his legs, and the efforts of three strong men +could hardly have held him. This I call fear and cowardice; the actions +of the others, a lack of proper training and knowledge of how to fight. +As the wolf was a female and apparently heavy with whelp, I at the time +thought this was the cause of their queer actions; but later, when +skinning the wolf for the pelt, I found no evidence of whelp, but a +stomach full of calf's flesh. In the second course, Allan Breck, a big, +powerful Scotch deerhound, and Nipsic, a lighter female of the same +breed, were put in the slips and a male wolf put up. They readily +overhauled him. Allan, leading several lengths in the run up, promptly +took a shoulder hold and bowled over the wolf; then, as though he +considered his whole duty performed, quietly looked on, while Nipsic +kept up a running fight with the wolf, attacking him a score of times, +but was unable alone to disable or kill him. It was only after the wolf +and Nipsic were lassoed and dragged apart by horsemen that she desisted +in her crude efforts to kill the wolf. She displayed no lack of courage, +but a total lack of training and knowledge of how to fight. In the final +course two grand specimens of the barzoi were placed in the slips; one +of them, Zlooem, a magnificent animal, all power and life, who had won +the Czar's gold medal in St. Petersburg in a wolf contest, impressed me +forcibly with the idea that, if he once obtained a throat hold, it would +be all over with the wolf. On this occasion I had a most excellent +mount, a thoroughbred Kentucky race mare, and, as one of the conditions +of the match was that I alone was to be allowed to follow the hounds, I +determined to stay with them throughout the run at all hazards, and to +be in at the death. The wolf was put up in the bottom land of the Platte +River. The footing was excellent, and, as he had but a few hundred +yards' start, I was enabled to be within fifty yards of them throughout +the run and fighting. The wolf at first started off as though he had +decided to depend upon speed to save his pelt, disdaining to employ his +usual stratagem, and the hounds gained but little upon him. Finding that +but one horseman and two strange-looking animals were following him, he +slackened his pace, and in an incredibly short time Zlooem was upon even +terms with him, and, seizing by the throat, over and over they went in a +cloud of sand, from which the wolf emerged first, again on the retreat, +with both hounds after him full tilt. Within a hundred yards they again +downed him, only to be shaken off. This was repeated probably a half +dozen times, and, though both the barzois had throat and flank holds, +they were unable to "stretch him." After five minutes of fast and +furious fighting, they dashed into a bunch of frightened cattle and +became separated. Though I immediately cut the wolf out of the bunch of +cattle and he limped off in full view, the dogs were too exhausted to +follow, and their condition was truly pitiable. Zlooem staggered about +and fell headlong upon his side, unable to rise. Both were so thoroughly +exhausted from their tremendous efforts that they could not stand upon +their feet; their tongues were swollen and protruding full length, their +breath came in short and labored gasps, the whistle and rattle in their +throats was audible at some distance, while their legs trembled and were +really unable to sustain the weight of their bodies. At the expiration +of ten minutes, I signaled the slippers to come and take the dogs up; +and thus ended the bid of the Russian wolfhound for popularity in this +country. + +Upon our return to Denver we were waited upon by a ranchman who had +heard of the failure of a pair of these dogs to catch and kill wolves. +He stated that he had a leash of greyhounds that could catch and kill +gray timber wolves, and deposited $500 to bind a match to that effect. +He was very much in earnest, and I regretted that we could not raise a +purse of $500, as I should like to have seen the feat performed--my +experience being that it required from four to six to accomplish this, +and that even then they have to understand their business thoroughly. + +_Roger D. Williams._ + + + + +Game Laws + + +Laws for the preservation of wild animals are a product of civilization. +The more civilized a nation, the broader and more humane will be these +laws. + +Our ancestors of the flint age were lawless. After the fall "thorns also +and thistles" came forth, and man ceased from eating herb-bearing seed +and fruit, and turned his hand to killing and eating flesh--"even as +Nimrod, the mighty hunter before the Lord." Many great and dangerous +animals then existed, and it was a necessity to kill off the cave bear, +the cave tiger and the mastodon. The earliest of Chaldean poems +indicates the equally great fishing of those days: "Canst thou draw out +leviathan with an hook, or his tongue with a cord which thou lettest +down?" All savage nations are still ruthless and wasteful in their +destruction of animal life. An example is found on the plains, where a +thousand buffalo were driven over the walls of a canyon that a tribe +might have a feast, although the tribe might, and often did, starve +during the coming winter. + +With the slow progress of civilization, at first customs grew up, and +then laws were enacted consonant with the degree of education of the +lawmakers. In ancient Oriental nations only a few animals were protected +for the use of the rulers. Thus the elephant, the cheetah and the falcon +in the East came under royal protection. The Normans, when they were not +at war, followed the chase with ardor, and passed laws for the +protection of deer, wolves and the wild boar. The Saxons, like the +Romans, guarded their forest preserves, but left the open country free +for chase to all the people. After the Conquest the new Norman rulers +applied their own stern and selfish laws over all England. Not only was +the chase forbidden, but the bearing of arms used in the chase as well, +and the conquerors thus preserved the game for their own use, and also +kept in subjection the disarmed people. Their punishments were +barbarous, and comprised maiming and death, and the killing of a deer or +a wild boar was punished with putting out the eyes or death. No greater +penalty was inflicted for the killing of a man. + +The underlying principle maintained was that all wild game was the +property of no one, and that to which no one had title belonged to the +sovereign. So the king held all lands not apportioned, and granted +permission to his chiefs to hunt therein. He also created the right of +_free chase_, _warren_ and _free fishery_, thus authorizing a designated +person to protect game and to follow the chase on the land of others, or +protect and take fish from rivers and streams that flowed over the +properties of other men. These claims of right became numerous and so +burdensome that they were subsequently restricted by Magna Charta. The +fascination of the chase, indulged in for years, became so inwrought in +the English mind that it formed the principal recreation of the people, +shared in alike by nobles, priests and peasants, evoking a world of +romance and legend in Robin Hood tales, and a sturdy, semi-warlike +pride. The exercise formed a school of stalwart out-of-door men, whose +descendants of like taste have invaded the remotest isles of the sea, +and girdled the earth with the colonies of England. The taste made its +fair mark on English verse from the early date of Chevy Chase, when, + + To chase the deer with hawk and hound + Earl Percy took his way, + +down to this present year of grace, when Conan Doyle's archer sings: + + So we'll drink all together + To the grey goose feather, + And the land where the grey goose flew. + +The pomp and dignity of the chase, its pursuit by the highest clergy and +the sad result of want of skill by an archbishop are quaintly disclosed +in the trial of the Archbishop of Canterbury for accidentally killing a +game-keeper instead of a deer in the forest of Bramshill in the year +1621, as reported at length in Vol. II. of Cobbett's State Trials. + +The right in the crown to all wild game, thus claimed and established in +England, became part of the common law, and was inherited by the +American colonies; and thus wild game in our Republic became the +property of the people, and the duty of its care and protection fell +upon the different States of the Republic, and in the territories upon +Congress. + +It is unnecessary to enumerate the different game laws and the various +cruel judgments entered therein in the English courts, or to refer to +the many essays and orations written and delivered against the game laws +of the various European States. They met the condemnation alike of +philanthropists, statesmen and poets. Charles Kingsley wrote in 1848, on +behalf of the people, the bold and pathetic song: + + The merry brown hares came leaping + Over the crest of the hill. + +It defended the poacher lad, but lost for the writer his lawn sleeves. + +The great distinction to be ever borne in mind between the game laws of +Europe and those of America is, that the former were passed for the +protection of game for a class, while the laws of a republic are passed +for the preservation of game for the use of all the people. The former +encountered the hostility of all the people save the aristocracy; the +latter should obtain the approbation of all the people, rich and poor, +for they are passed and maintained for the good of the people at large. + +The value of the fish and game to the people of the State of Maine is +greater and brings into the State more money than its hay crop or its +potato crop. The value of a mountain stream is nothing except as it may +water people or kine. Stock and protect that river by suitable laws, and +the fishing privileges may be rented for an annual rental that will pay +all the taxes of every county through which it runs. Yet often it is +that the inhabitant of that county complains of the injustice of +preventing him from taking fish therein at his pleasure at any season of +the year. + +The earliest recorded game law is found in the twenty-second chapter of +Deuteronomy, where it is forbidden to take a bird from her nest. The +earliest law upon this subject in America that we find was the act of +the Assembly of Virginia of 1699, II. William III., wherein the killing +of deer between January and July was prohibited under a penalty of 500 +pounds of tobacco. In Maryland an act was passed on the same subject in +1730, which recites the evils of constant shooting--"Which evil +practice, if not put a stop to, may in a few years entirely destroy the +species of deer, to the great damage of the good people of this +province; be it enacted by the Right Honorable the Lord proprietary, by +and with the consent of his Lordship's Governor and the upper and lower +Houses of Assembly, that it should not be lawful that any person +(Indians in amity with us excepted), between January first and July +last, to kill any deer under the penalty of 400 pounds of tobacco." +South Carolina followed in 1769 with an act prohibiting the killing of +deer during the same period, "under a penalty of forty shillings +proclamation money." Both of these acts prohibited night hunting with +fire-light, as did also the Statutes of the Mississippi Territory. + +The earliest laws upon this subject in Kentucky were passed in 1775 by +the Legislature, appropriately holding its sessions under the greenwood +trees, and their author was Daniel Boone. + +The earliest law in the State of New York was passed in 1791 (2 Session +Laws of 1791, p. 188), and it prohibited the killing of "heath hen, +partridge, quail or woodcock" on Long Island, or "in the city and county +of New York," under penalty of twenty shillings. + +Laws upon this subject thereafter multiplied in New York, varying in +their scope and character with every Legislature. Sometimes the +prosecution was left to the county prosecutor; sometimes it was +permitted to the informer, who shared the penalty; sometimes the power +of enacting laws was reserved to the State; sometimes it was delegated +to the supervisors. In 1879, by the influence of the Society for the +Preservation of Game, a complete act was passed, entitled "An Act for +the Preservation of Moose and Wild Deer, Birds, Fish and other Game," +which for many years was vigorously enforced by that Society, and became +the model for like laws in many other States. This law made the +possession of game during the close season the offense, and not _prima +facie_ evidence of killing, and also it removed from the various local +supervisors the power of making laws upon this subject. + +These two essential features of law cannot be too strongly insisted upon +with all lawmakers. Under this statute hundreds of prosecutions were +made and convictions had in the markets of the great cities. The bidding +for game by wealthy cities is the incentive to unlawful killing, and the +closing of the markets stops the poacher's business more thoroughly than +the conviction of an occasional poacher. When the law permitted game +killed in other States during the open season to be sold in the State +of New York in the close season, there was no lack of evidence to show +that every head of game was killed elsewhere and in the open season, and +the petit jury always found in favor of the oppressed market man. When +the law was changed so that all game, wherever killed, was decreed +illegal, the defense was plead that such a law restricted commerce and +was unconstitutional; and it was not until the Society carried the case +of Royal Phelps, President of the Society for the Preservation of Game, +against Racey, through to the court of last resort, as reported in 60th +New York Reports, that this defense was decreed insufficient. That case +was followed in Illinois (97 Ill., 320), and Missouri (1st Mo. App., +15), and in other States, until it became the established law of the +land. The Supreme Court of the United States held (125 U. S., 465), that +a State cannot prohibit the importation of merchandise from another +State, but can the sale. That court also sustained the right of States +to protect fisheries and destroy illegal nets (Lawton _vs._ Steel, 152 +U. S.), and it affirmed the right of States to compel the maintenance of +fishways in dams erected in rivers (Holyoke Co. _vs._ Lyman, 82 U. S.). +The United States courts also maintained purchaser's title to marsh +lands and enjoined trespassers from shooting thereon in Chisholm _vs._ +Caines (U. S. Circuit Court of the 4th District). Thus, step by step, +the game laws of the land were sustained, held to be constitutional and +enforced. + +The forms of defense which offenders deem it righteous to make to game +prosecutions are without number, and as fraudulent as their trade is +wasteful. One instance will illustrate. The writer, as counsel for the +Society for the Protection of Game, prosecuted one Clark, a prominent +poulterer in State street in Albany, for having and offering for sale +several barrels of quail. The case was tried at Albany, Hon. Amasa J. +Parker appearing for the defense. After the plaintiff's witnesses had +proved the possession of the birds, the offering for sale as quail, and +the handling of several of them by the witnesses, the defendant +testified that these birds were not quail at all, but were English +snipe, and that their bills were pared down and the birds were thus sold +as quail, as they brought a better price, and that he frequently did so +in his trade. Probably no person in the court-room believed this +evidence, but the jury found for the defendant. + +The defense has been frequently interposed, that the birds in question +were not the prohibited birds, but were some other or foreign variety, +until it was found that it was necessary always to purchase and to +produce in court, fresh or dried, some of the game in regard to which +the suit was being tried. + +Before leaving the litigation of the courts of the State of New York, +and in order to show how early and ardently the gentlemen of the old +school followed the diversions of the chase, it is well to cite the case +of Post against Pierson, tried in 1805 before the venerable Judges +Tompkins and Livingston, and reported in 3d Cain's New York Reports. It +there appears that Mr. Post, a worthy citizen of that most traditional +hunting ground, Long Island, organized a fox-hunt. The chase went +merrily-- + + An hundred hounds bayed deep and strong, + Clattered an hundred [more or less] steeds along, + +and they started a fox and had him in view, when one Pierson, of +Hempstead, the defendant in the case, well knowing of the chase, yet +with wicked and felonious mind intercepted, shot, killed and carried +away the fox. Post brought suit for the value of the animal, and the +injury to the outraged feelings of the members of the hunt. Counsel +learned in the law declaimed, and the wise opinion of the court, citing +all the authorities from Puffendorf down, covers five printed pages, and +finally decided that, "However uncourteous or unkind the conduct of +Pierson in this instance may have been, yet this act was productive of +no injury or damage for which a legal remedy can be applied." + +Probably to correct this ruling, the Statute of 1844 was passed, which +provides that anyone who starts and pursues deer in the Counties of +Suffolk and Queens shall be deemed in possession of the same. + +A great responsibility is thrown upon the Government of the United +States to protect the large game in the different national parks. In a +few years they will contain the only remnants of the buffalo, elk, +antelope and mountain sheep. Poachers, like wolves, surround these +parks, killing only to sell the heads for trophies. Captain George S. +Anderson and Scout F. Burgess have done a good work in the Yellowstone +Park in capturing poachers, which efforts were recognized by the Boone +and Crockett Club. If authority should be given to the army to try and +punish these poachers by martial law, it would save many a herd +elsewhere, and also relieve the Government from great expense for the +transporting and trial of offenders. + +When we reflect how many and valuable races of animals in North America +have become extinct or nearly so, as the buffalo and the manatee; how +many varieties of birds that afforded us food, or brightened the autumn +sky with their migrations, have been annihilated, as have been the +prairie fowl in the Eastern States and the passenger pigeon in all our +States, the necessity of these laws appears urgent. A few suggestions +that experience has taught us in regard to these matters are worthy of +record. + +We must remember that in a republic no law is effective without public +opinion to back it. Therefore, contemporaneously with making our laws, +we should by writing and speaking educate the public mind to appreciate +and sustain them. Experience has taught that in these prosecutions the +public prosecutor is a laggard. He prefers noted criminal cases and +neglects these, which he regards as trivial offenses. Therefore the law +should authorize private prosecutors, on giving security for costs and +damages, to make search and conduct prosecutions in their own names. + +Next, it is to be remembered that a single private person will make +himself odious in the community by bringing such prosecutions, and is +often deterred by the fear of revenge. Therefore, societies should be +formed, composed of many good citizens; they should employ their own +counsel, and prosecute in the name of the society or its president. + +Next, the law should definitely fix a penalty for having in possession, +transporting or exposing for sale. This is more important than +prohibiting the killing, as it is the marketing of dead game that +incites the killing. It is the market hunter that has destroyed all +feathered life on our prairies, and the cold storage process has enabled +him to transport to other States or countries, and make his gains there. +Close the market and the killing ceases. + +Another step to success is the procuring of the conformity of the laws +in neighboring States. The laws of New York may prohibit the sale of +quail, ruffed grouse and prairie fowl, and the societies may enforce +them in New York city, and day by day see the monstrous wrong of +carloads of prairie fowl and other valuable game brought into Jersey +City, and sold to the population of that town and to the ocean vessels +sailing from its docks. Our Western prairies are denuded of their birds, +that are frozen in the close season and are afterward shipped to Europe, +and sold in the markets there at a price often less than they would +bring in New York city. + +Again, laws on these subjects should be as simple as possible, including +in the one open and close season as many kinds of game as possible, and +creating a general public understanding that the shooting season opens +at a fixed date, say October 1st, and that no shooting or possession of +game is to be allowed prior to that date, and that the close season for +all game should commence on another certain date, say February 1st. + +Lastly, a defective law, that is permanent and uniform throughout the +State, is more effective than a better and more detailed law varying in +different counties and towns, and frequently altered. In illustration +of the vagaries of lawmakers in this respect, it is to be remembered +that the law of 1879, passed by the Legislature of the State of New +York, was a complete and well-studied statute, made after much +consultation, and meeting the approval of all the societies of the +State, as well as the market men, and operated in the main +satisfactorily to all. Since that date members of the Legislature from +the different localities introduced bills making some exception or +addition to the act, to benefit their little town or locality, to +prohibit fishing in certain waters, to protect certain other animals, to +provide certain restrictions as to weapons of chase or means of fishing, +or times and seasons; or giving powers to county supervisors to +legislate in addition to the general legislation of the State. Two +hundred and fourteen such acts and ordinances have been passed since +1879, until the general law has been obscured and brought into contempt. +These acts and ordinances include, among other curiosities, the +protection of muskrats and mink, the preservation of skunks and other +vermin, the prohibition of residents of one county from fishing in +another county, and protecting parts of certain lakes or rivers in a +different manner or season from other parts. In some of the acts words +are misspelled; in one it is enacted that "_wild birds_ shall not be +killed at any time." Another act was passed defining the word "angling," +as used in the general statute, thus--"taking fish with hook and line +and by rod held in hands," leaving the troller or the happy schoolboy, +that drops his hand-line from the bridge, exposed to the dire penalties +of the law. While writing in this year of grace, eighteen hundred and +ninety-five, the Legislature has passed a law permitting the sale of +game at any time in the year, providing it is shown to have been killed +300 miles from the State. + +This most unreasonable law was procured largely through the influence of +the Chicago market men. The States lying west of Chicago have been +endeavoring to protect their game. Salutary laws have been passed +prohibiting the killing and freezing of game, and the transportation of +it outside of those territories. The markets of Chicago and the other +great cities of the West being closed to the public sale of game, the +dealers sought to open the markets of New York, and they have thus done +so by this law. The Governor was fully advised of the purpose and effect +of the law, but the powerful societies of the market men were promoting +it and the bill was approved. In a few years the conspicuous prairie +fowl will exist only in the naturalists' books. + +In olden times laws upon these subjects protected only animals which +lent pleasure to the chase, and also certain royal fish which were +deemed to belong to the king. These old laws were selfish and severe, +and were enforced with the cruelty of the age. A gentler spirit has +since dawned upon the world, and now most game laws shelter as well the +song bird as the wild boar and the stag. The true hunter derives more +pleasure in watching the natural life around him than in killing the +game that he meets. His heart feels the poetry of nature in the "wren +light rustling among the leaves and twigs," and in the train of ducks +as, + + Darkly seen against the crimson sky, + Their figure floats along. + +He stops to enjoy the guttural syllables where "Robert of Lincoln is +telling his name" in the summer meadow. At early dawn and eventide he +listens to the bugle call of the great migration in the skies and +exclaims: + + Thou hast no sorrow in thy song, + No winter in thy year. + +He feels the love that is begotten by contact with nature, and he it is +in these later days who has extended the laws to protect all birds of +meadow and woods, while in return he is rewarded by a choir of songsters +giving thanks in musical numbers, + + Better than all measures + Of delightful sound, + Better than all treasures, + That in books are found. + +_Chas. E. Whitehead._ + + + + +[Illustration: YELLOWSTONE PARK ELK.] + +Protection of the Yellowstone National Park + + +The first regular expedition to enter the region now embraced within the +limits of the National Park was the Washburn party of 1870. + +In the summer of 1871 two parties--one under Captain J. W. Barlow, U. S. +Engineers, and the other under Dr. F. V. Hayden, U. S. Geological +Survey--made pretty thorough scientific explorations of the whole area. + +As a result of the reports made by these two parties, and largely +through the influence of Dr. Hayden, the organic act of March 1, 1872, +was passed, setting aside a certain designated "tract of land as a +public park or pleasure ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the +people." It further provided that this Park should be "under the +exclusive control of the Secretary of the Interior, whose duty it shall +be, as soon as practicable, to make and publish such rules and +regulations as he may deem necessary or proper for the care and +management of the same. Such regulations shall provide for the +preservation from injury or spoliation of all timber, mineral deposits, +natural curiosities or wonders within the Park. + +"He shall provide against the wanton destruction of the fish and game +found within said Park, and against their capture or destruction for the +purpose of merchandise or profit. + +"And generally shall be authorized to take all such measures as shall be +necessary or proper to fully carry out the objects or purposes of this +act." + +It will be seen that "timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities and +wonders" were, by the terms of the _law_, protected from "injury or +spoliation." The Secretary of the Interior must, by _regulation_, +"provide against the wanton destruction of fish and game," and against +their "capture for the purpose of merchandise or profit." The Park +proper includes nearly 3,600 square miles, but under the act of 1891 a +timber reserve was set aside, adding about twenty-five miles on the east +and about eight on the south, making the total area nearly 5,600 square +miles. By an order of the Secretary of the Interior, dated April 14, +1891, this addition was placed under the control of the Acting +Superintendent of the Park, "with the same rules and regulations" as in +the Park; it thus in every respect became a part of the Park itself. + +Dr. Hayden drew the Park bill from his personal observations, made in +the summer of 1871. At that time the territorial lines were not run, and +their exact location was not known. He consequently chose for his +initial points the natural features of the ground, and made his lines +meridians and parallels of latitude. His selections seem almost a work +of inspiration. The north line takes in the low slopes on the north of +Mt. Everts and the valley of the East Fork of the Yellowstone, where the +elk, deer, antelope and mountain sheep winter by thousands; it leaves +outside every foot of land adapted to agriculture; also--and this is +more important than all--it passes over the rugged and inaccessible +summits of the snowy range, where the hardiest vandal dare not put his +shack. + +The east line might have been placed where the timber reserve line now +runs without much damage to material interests; but in that case the +owners of prospect holes about Cooke City would have long since secured +segregation. As the line runs, it is secured by the impassable +Absarokas--the summer home of large herds of mountain sheep--and it +includes not a foot of land of a dime's value to mortal man. Both south +and west lines are protected by mountain heights, and they exclude every +foot of land of any value for agriculture, or even for the grazing of +domestic cattle. + +The experiment was once made of wintering a herd of cattle in the lowest +part of the Park--the Falls River meadows, in the extreme southwest +corner--and, I believe, not a hoof survived. Their bones by the hundreds +now whiten the fair valley. + +Following the act of dedication, Mr. N. P. Langford was on May 10, 1872, +appointed superintendent, without salary. He was directed to "apply any +money which may be received from leases to carrying out the object of +the act." He never lived in the Park, never drew a salary, and never, +except by reports and recommendations, did anything for its protection. +In his first report he suggests that "wild game of all kinds be +protected by law," that trapping be prohibited, and that the timber be +protected from the axman and from fires. Unfortunately I am unable to +possess myself of any of his subsequent reports; but I know that he +toiled earnestly and without pay--and to no results. + +On April 18, 1877, Mr. P. W. Norris was appointed to succeed him. He +also served for love until July 5, 1878, when appropriations began, and +something was done for "Park protection." In his report for 1879 he +speaks of having stopped the killing of bison, and says that other game, +although "grown shy by the usually harmless fusillade of tourists," was +in "abundance for our largest parties." He also protected the wonders by +breaking them off with ax and crowbar, and shipping them by the carload +to Washington and elsewhere. His men did their best to protect the +forests from fires, and with only fair success. By this report (1879) it +seems that "no white men have ever spent an entire winter at the Mammoth +Hot Springs"; he strongly recommended game protection, but not the +prohibition of hunting. There was then but a single game superintendent, +and he without authority to act. As at present, the main trouble was +with the "Clark's Fork" people. The regulations permitted hunting for +"recreation" or "for food," which would always be made to cover the +object of any captured poacher. + +Major Norris was doubtless a valuable man for the place and the time; +but, as he expressed it in a manifesto dated July 1, 1881, and headed +"Mountain Comrades," "The construction of roads and bridle paths will be +our main object," to which he added the work of "explorations and +research." His entire force lived upon game, which was hunted only in +season, and preserved, or jerked, for a supply for the remainder of the +year. He was succeeded by Mr. P. H. Conger on February 2, 1882, but Mr. +Conger did not arrive until May 22 following, when he seems to have +fallen full upon the trials and the tribulations that have beset his +successors. He reported the necessity for protecting the wonders and the +game, but seems to have accomplished nothing in either direction. His +reports are largely made up of lists of the distinguished visitors by +whose hand-shake he was anointed. He was relieved in August, 1884, by +Mr. R. E. Carpenter, who was removed in May, 1885, without +accomplishing anything. Mr. David W. Wear was next in succession, and +remained until legislated out of office in August, 1886. Nothing of +value seems to have been done in these two administrations. In the +sundry civil appropriation bill for 1886-87 the item for the protection +and improvement of the Park was omitted. By the act of March 3, 1883, +the Secretary of War was authorized, on request from the Secretary of +the Interior, to detail part of the army for duty in the Park, the +commander of the troops to be the acting superintendent. As there was no +money appropriated to pay the old officers, they, of course, had +business elsewhere. Captain Moses Harris, First Cavalry, was the first +detailed under the new regime. He arrived there on August 17, 1886, and +assumed control on the 20th. From this time on things assumed a +different aspect. He had the assistance of a disciplined troop of +cavalry, and he used it with energy and discretion. It very soon became +unsafe to trespass in the Park, winter or summer, and load upon load of +confiscated property testified to the number of his captures. His +reports show the heroic efforts made to prevent and extinguish fires, to +prevent the defacement of the geysers and other formations, and to +protect the game. In his report for 1887 he pays his respects to our +enemies from "the northern and eastern borders"--the same hand that has +continued to depredate until this day. He speaks of the "immense herds +of elk that have passed the winter along the traveled road from Gardiner +to Cooke City," and he goes on to say that "but little efficient +protection can be afforded to this species of game except upon the +Yellowstone and its tributaries." He remained in charge until June 1, +1889, when he transferred his duties to Captain F. A. Boutelle, and in +the three years of his rule he inaugurated and put in motion most of the +protective measures now in use. + +Captain Boutelle, in succession to Captain Harris, continued his +methods, and protection prospered. Meantime, in 1889, an additional +troop of cavalry was detailed for duty in the Park in the summer, and +had station at the Lower Geyser Basin. The principal use of this troop +was in protecting the formations and the forests, but the work was well +done and the foundation was laid for future efficiency. + +I came to the Park in February, 1891, in succession to Captain Boutelle. +On his departure there was only one man left here familiar with the +Park and its needs, and that was Ed. Wilson, the scout. He had been a +trapper himself, and was thoroughly familiar with every species of game +and its haunts and habits. He was brave as Caesar, but feared the +mysterious and unseen. He preferred to operate alone by night and in +storms; he knew every foot of the Park, and knew it better than any +other man has yet known it; he knew its enemies and the practical +direction of their enmity. He came to me one morning and reported that a +man named Van Dyck was trapping beaver near Soda Butte; that he spent +his days on the highest points in the neighborhood, and with a glass +scanned every approach; and that the only way to get him was to go +alone, by night, and approach the position from the rear, over Specimen +Mountain. To this I readily assented, and at 9 that night, in as bad a +storm as I ever saw, Wilson started out for the forty-mile trip. He +reached a high point near the one occupied by Van Dyck, saw him visit +his traps in the twilight and return to his camp, where at daybreak the +next morning Wilson came upon him while sleeping, photographed him with +his own kodak, and then awakened him and brought him to the post. But, +unfortunately for the cause of Park protection, Wilson disappeared in +July of that year, and his remains were found a mile from headquarters +in the June following. That left me unsupported by anyone who knew the +place and its foes; I was fortunate, however, in having as his successor +Felix Burgess, who for more than three years has ably, bravely and +intelligently performed the perilous and thankless duties of the +position. + +But before going on with a description of my own work in the Park, I +will say a few words of my predecessors. In looking over the list, I +think I can, without disparagement of the rest, single out three for +especial mention. + +Langford was an explorer and pioneer; by his writings he made the Park +known to this country and to the whole world. He was an enthusiast and +his enthusiasm was contagious. Protection was not yet needed, but a +knowledge of the place was, and to this he largely contributed. He was +the proper man and he came at the proper time. + +Next came Major Norris. To him protection was a minor or unconsidered +subject. His "usually harmless fusillade of tourists" reminds one of +Paddy's remark to his master: "Did I hit the deer, Pat?" "No, my lord, +but you made him l'ave the place." For his time he was exactly suited; +he penetrated every remote nook and corner; built roads, blazed trails, +and in general made accessible all the wonders written of and described +by Mr. Langford. Protection was not yet due, but it was on the road and +close at hand. + +For this part of the work Major Harris was an ideal selection, and he +came none too soon. Austere, correct, unyielding, he was a terror to +evil doers. And, after all, is there anything more disagreeable than a +man who is always right? I believe Major Harris was always _sure_ he was +right before he acted, and then no fear of consequences deterred him. He +once arrested a man for defacing the formations at the Upper Basin. The +man confessed that he had done it, but that it was a small offense, and +that if put out of the Park for it he would publish the Major in all the +Montana papers. He was put out, and the Major was vilified in a manner +with which I am personally very familiar. The next year this same man +was sent to the penitentiary for one year for "holding up" one of the +Park coaches in the Gardiner Canyon. In 1891 I derived great assistance +in the protection of the wonders and the forests from Captain Edwards, +who, with his troop, had served in the Park before. Unfortunately he had +to leave in the autumn, and I was again left alone with my ignorance and +my good intentions. + +In May, 1892, Troop D of the Sixth Cavalry was sent to my assistance. +Captain Scott was in command, and he has remained until the present +time. Hard as iron, tireless and fearless, he has been an invaluable +assistant in all that pertains to Park protection. + +In protecting the beauties and wonders of the Park from vandalism, the +main things to be contended against were the propensities of women to +gather "specimens," and of men to advertise their folly by writing their +names on everything beautiful within their reach. Small squads of +soldiers were put on guard at each of the geyser basins, and at other +points where protection was needful, with orders to arrest and threaten +with expulsion anyone found breaking off or gathering specimens. Only a +few examples were needed to materially diminish this evil. Of course, +it still continued in small degree, but those who indulged in it had to +be at great pains to conceal their operations, and this of itself +greatly reduced the destruction. I personally engaged in a long +controversy with a reverend despoiler, whom I detected in the act of +breaking off a specimen. A large part of his defense was that, as I had +on no uniform, he did not know it was necessary to be watchful and +careful in my presence. + +The names of the vain glared at one from every bit of formation, and +from every place where the ingenuity of vanity could place them. +Primarily I ordered that every man found writing his name on the +formations should be sent back and made to erase it. I once sent a man +from the Mammoth Springs and once a man from the Canyon to the Upper +Basin to scrub his autograph from the rocks; and one morning a callow +youth from the West was aroused at 6:30 A. M. at the Fountain Hotel and +taken, with brush and soap, to the Fountain Geyser, there to obliterate +the supposed imperishable monument of his folly. His parents, who were +present, were delighted with the judgment awarded him, and his fellow +tourists by their taunts and gibes covered him with confusion as with a +garment. But, notwithstanding the sharpest watch and greatest care, new +names were constantly being added, and they could not easily be detected +from the old ones on account of the number of names already there. So, +in the early part of the season of 1892, with hammer and chisel, where +necessary, the old names were erased and we started even with the world, +and the geyser basins are practically free from this disfigurement +to-day. The remedy was heroic and successful, as such remedies usually +are. + +The protection of the forests--perhaps of more material importance than +any other form of Park protection--became a subject of study, care and +attention. As a rule, fires originated in one of three ways: by +carelessly left camp fires, by lightning, or by the rubbing together of +two trees swayed by the wind. There is no way of preventing the last two +forms of ignition; the only thing to be done is to keep a ceaseless +watch, and, so far as practicable, prevent the fire from spreading. The +extensive areas burned over in days evidently prior to the advent of +white men make it very apparent that these two agencies of destruction +were then at work, as it is certain they have been since. Camping +parties are many of them from cities, and they know little, and care +less, about the devastation a forest fire may create. They leave a small +and apparently harmless bunch of coals where their camp fire was; after +they have passed on, a wind springs up, fans the embers into flame, the +dry pine needles are kindled, and at once the forest is ablaze, and no +power on earth can put it out. When once the flame reaches the tree +tops, if the wind be strong, a man on horseback can scarce escape before +it. As the wind ceases the fire quiets down, only to spring up again +next day on the appearance of the afternoon breeze. The only time to +fight the fire is when the wind has gone down and the flames have +ceased. Then water poured on smouldering logs, earth thrown on +unextinguished stumps, and the clearing of a path before the line of +fire in the carpet of pine needles are the effective means of +extinguishment. After a fire is once got under control it is no unusual +thing for it to reappear 500 yards from any of its previous lines, +carried there as a spark through the air, and dropped in the resinous +tinder ever ready to receive and spread it. + +In the four seasons during which I have been in the Park but one fire of +any magnitude has occurred. That broke out along the main road, about a +mile north of Norris, in July, 1893. As it did not break out near a +camping place, its origin could not be traced to camp fires; nor could +it be charged to lightning or rubbing of trees. It was evidently started +by a match or other fire carelessly dropped by a member of the road +crew, then working near there, or possibly by a cigar stump thrown from +a stage by a tourist. It was at once reported to me by telegraph. The +troop was at drill, and in less than twenty minutes a dozen men, under +charge of a sergeant, were on their way, with shovels, axes and buckets, +to the scene of the trouble. An hour later the report was that it was +beyond control. I then sent out the balance of the troop, under +Lieutenant Vance, and ordered Captain Scott down from the Lower Basin +with all available men of his troop. Thus the whole of the two troops +were at the scene, and they remained there toiling and fighting night +and day for twenty days, when a providential rain put an end to their +labors. The area burned over included some exceptionally fine timber, +was in extreme length nearly six miles, and in breadth from a few feet +in some places to near a mile in others. + +A fire in pine woods may be successfully fought so long as it is kept +confined to the ground, but once it gets a start in the tree tops no +power on earth can cope with it; no effort is of the slightest avail. +Campers who leave their fires unextinguished often make the excuse that +they did not believe any damage could result, as the coals were nearly +dead. Although such might be the case at the hour of their leaving, in +the still air of morning, the afternoon wind is quite capable of blowing +them into dangerous and destructive life. My rule has been to insist on +the rigorous enforcement of the regulation requiring expulsion from the +Park in such cases. One or two expulsions each year serve as healthy +warnings, and these, backed by a system of numerous and vigilant +patrols, have brought about the particularly good results of which we +can boast. In 1892 a fire on Moose Creek was sighted from a point near +the Lake, and reported to me that night by wire from the Lake Hotel. +Before the next evening, Captain Scott was on the spot with his troop, +and the fire was soon under control. In a few hours it would have been +in the heavy timber on the shore of Shoshone Lake, and there is no limit +to the damage it might have wrought. + +As a last heading of my subject I shall touch on the protection of the +game. This was never seriously attempted until Major Harris came to the +Park, in 1886; but he attacked it with an earnestness and a fearlessness +that has left a lasting impress. It is not probable that the Park is the +natural home of bison, elk or deer, yet the last remnant of the first +and great numbers of the last two are found here. The high altitude, +great cold and extreme depth of snow make it a forbidding habitat for +the ruminants. They remain here simply because they are protected. +Protection was given by a system of scouting extended over the best game +ranges, and throughout the season of probable game destruction. A good +many captures were made; the poachers were turned loose and their +property confiscated; this was all the law allowed. The depredating +element of the community soon came to care very little for this menace +to their business, for they entered the Park with an equipment that +was hardly worth packing in to the post, and, if taken from them, +occasioned but small loss. + +[Illustration: A HUNTING DAY.] + +The accumulation of this sort of property had become great, and, as I +had no proper storage room for it, I began my work by making a bonfire +of it. A first requisite to successful work was to become acquainted +with the names, the haunts and the habits of those whom it was necessary +to watch or to capture. Ed. Wilson was thoroughly familiar with all +this, and many is the lesson I patiently took from him. He described to +me the leaders among the poachers from the several regions--Cooke, +Henry's Lake, Jackson's Lake and Gardiner. To begin with the Cooke City +parties, he named to me three as particularly active and dangerous: +these were Van Dyck, Pendleton and Howell. Van Dyck, he told me, was at +that time trapping beaver near Soda Butte, but he had not been able to +definitely locate him. He made two trips there through cold and storm, +but to no purpose. Finally, on his third expedition, he caught him, as +already stated, sleeping in his bed. His property was destroyed, and he +was held in the guard house awaiting the instructions of the Secretary +of the Interior, which for some reason were very slow in coming. At last +he was released, and ordered never again to cross the Park boundary +without permission. + +The next year Pendleton made a trip in the Park in early May, and got +out with two young bison calves, which he was carrying on pack animals +in beer boxes. Of course, they died before he got them to a place where +he could raise them in safety, and he soon started back to renew his +evil work. He was arrested and confined, and his case took exactly the +same course as Van Dyck's had taken. + +The last of the trio was Ed. Howell. Knowing of him and his habits, I +kept him as well under watch as possible. During a trip I made to the +east side of the Park in October, 1893, I saw many old signs of bison in +several localities. Howell having disappeared from public view for a +month or two, I sent Burgess out in January, 1894, with orders to +carefully scout this country. I indicated to him exactly where I +expected him to find signs of the marauder. He encountered very severe +weather, and was not able to make a full tour of the places indicated; +but he did report having found, in the exact locality I had designated +to him, tracks of a man on _skis_ drawing a toboggan. These tracks were +old and could not be followed, but they formed a valuable clue. I next +sent to the Soda Butte station and had a thorough search made near that +place. It was found that the same tracks had passed over the hill behind +the station, going toward Cooke. Careful inquiry developed the fact that +Howell had come in for provisions with his equipment, but that he had +not brought any trophies with him. Calculating the time when he should +be due again in the bison country, I gave Burgess an order to repeat his +trip there, and stay until he brought back results. He left the Lake +Hotel in a severe storm on March 11th, and camped the night of the 12th +where he had seen the tracks on his previous visit. Next morning, when +scarcely out of camp, he found a _cache_ of six bison scalps suspended +in a tree. The _ski_ tracks near by were old, and he was not able to +follow them. He possessed himself of the spoils and started down +Astringent Creek toward Pelican. When near the latter stream, he found a +lodge, evidently occupied at the time, and the tracks near it, fresh and +distinct, pointing to the southward. Soon he heard shots, and far off +in the distance he espied the culprit in the act of killing more of the +game. The problem then arose as to how he was to make the capture. With +him was only a single soldier, and the two had for arms only a .38 +caliber revolver. It was certain that this was Howell, and it was known +that he was a desperate character. + +In giving Burgess his orders, I had told him that I did not send him to +his death--that I did not want him to take risks or serious chances; I +impressed upon him the fact that, as far as Howell was concerned, even +if times were hard, the wages of sin had not been reduced. All this he +knew well, but there was a desperate criminal armed with a rifle; as for +himself, he might as well have been unarmed. However, fortune favored +him, and soon Howell became so occupied in removing the scalp from one +of his bison that Burgess, by a swift and silent run, approached within +four or five yards of him undiscovered. It would have been easy enough +to kill him then, but it was too much like cold-blooded murder to do so +at that range; at 200 or 300 yards it would have seemed entirely +different. Howell's rifle was leaning against a buffalo's carcass a few +yards from him. He made a step toward it, when Burgess told him to stop +or he would shoot. Howell then turned back and said, "All right, but you +would never have got me if I had seen you sooner." He was found +surrounded by the bodies of seven bison freshly killed, and, to +illustrate more fully the wanton nature of the man, of the eight scalps +brought in to the post, six were cows and one of the others was a +yearling calf. + +His case went through the same course as the others, and finally toward +the last of April he was turned loose, with orders to quit the Park and +never return. He, however, is cast in a different mold from some of the +previous captures, and some time in July he reappeared with the most +brazen and shameless effrontery. He was reincarcerated, tried, and +sentenced for disobedience of the order of expulsion. His sentence was +thirty days in jail and fifty dollars fine, and this he now has under +appeal. Insufficient as is Howell's punishment, his crime has been of +more service to the Park than any other event in its history; it created +the greatest interest throughout the country, and led to the passage of +the Park Protection Act, which was signed by the President on May 7th. +A strange coincidence in the cases of Van Dyck and Howell is that both +were accompanied by their faithful watchdogs, and neither dog gave a +sign of the approach of the enemy, and both men swore vengeance on their +faithless protectors. + +The preservation of elk, deer, antelope and the carnivora is assured. +Their numbers elsewhere, their wide distribution within the Park, their +relatively small commercial value, added to the danger attendant on +killing them within the Park, is a sufficient protection. Moose and +mountain sheep will probably increase for similar reasons, although they +are less generally distributed and are of greater value to head hunters. +With the bison it is different. They have entirely disappeared from all +other parts of the country, and they are of sufficient money value to +tempt the cupidity of the hunters and trappers who surround the Park on +all sides. It is told that a fine bison head has been sold, delivered in +London, for L200--nearly $1,000 in our money. A taxidermist would +probably be willing to pay $200 to $500 for such a scalp. Many a hardy +frontiersman, who has no sentiment for their preservation and no +respect for the law, will take his chances of capture for such a sum. + +Another animal that is difficult of preservation is the beaver; the +trouble in this case is entirely due to the ease with which traps may be +set in places where it is impossible to find them, and the ease with +which the pelts may be packed and carried out. Within the last four +years beaver have increased enormously, so I feel justified in saying +that their preservation is so far successful. + +For the general protection of the Park there are stationed within its +lines two troops of cavalry. They are both kept at the Mammoth Hot +Springs for eight months of the year, and one of them is sent to the +Lower Geyser Basin during the four months of the tourist season. Small +outposts are kept at Riverside on the west, Snake River on the south, +Soda Butte on the northeast, and Norris near the center. Besides these a +winter station has been placed in the Hayden Valley, and summer stations +are kept at the Upper Basin, Thumb, Lake and Canyon. Between these a +constant stream of patrols is kept up, so that no depredator can do very +much damage without detection. There is allowed but one civilian scout, +who is overworked and underpaid. With all this enormous territory to +guard, with all that is beautiful and valuable to protect, with the last +of the bison to preserve, it would seem that this rich Government should +be able to expend more than a paltry $900 per year for scouts, and more +than $500 (which it receives for rentals) for the other needs of the +Park. + +There are very few who appreciate the amount of work done here by the +soldiers in summer and in winter, in cold and in storms, on foot, on +horseback and on snowshoes--and all without murmur or word of complaint. +Never before was it so well placed before the public as it was by Mr. +Hough in his _Forest and Stream_ articles summer before last. Should +Congress be stirred to make a more liberal appropriation for the purpose +of carrying out the provisions of the act of May 7th, to him, more than +to any other man, will the credit be due. + +_Geo. S. Anderson._ + + + + +The Yellowstone National Park Protection Act + + +On May 7, 1894, President Cleveland approved an Act "to protect the +birds and animals in Yellowstone National Park, and to punish crimes in +said Park, and for other purposes." + +This law, as finally enacted, owed much to the efforts and labor of +members of the Boone and Crockett Club, who for many years had +persistently struggled to induce Congress to pass such necessary +legislation. The final triumph is a matter of congratulation to every +sportsman interested in the protection of game, and fulfills one of the +great objects sought to be attained by the foundation of the Club. While +the statute, in many of its details, could readily be improved, it is +still, in its general features, sufficient to serve the purposes of its +enactment. To those not conversant with the subject, the statement may +seem astonishing, that from the establishment of the Park in 1872 to the +passage of the Act in 1894 no law protecting either the Park, the +animals or the visitors was operative within the Yellowstone Park--a +region containing about 3,500 square miles, and larger than the States +of Delaware and Rhode Island. This condition of affairs was frequently +brought to the notice of the National Legislature, and in 1887 their +attention was called to it by a startling episode. A member of Congress, +Mr. Lacey, of Iowa, was a passenger in a stage which was "held up" in +the Park and robbed. The highwaymen were afterward apprehended, but +escaped the punishment suited to their crime because of the great doubt +existing as to whether any law was applicable. As to game offenses, +regulations were powerless for prevention in the absence of any +penalties by law to enforce them. + +The explanation of this anomalous situation is to be sought in the +circumstances under which the Park had been set apart. The eminent +scientists, who interested themselves in this important object, were +surrounded with difficulties. The vastness of the tract proposed to be +included, the question of expense, the selfish interests opposing the +measure, were obstacles not easy to overcome. Congress was told, "Give +us the Park; nothing more is needed than to reserve the land from public +sale or settlement." Doubtless the remoteness and isolation of the +region might have been thought, at the time, sufficient to insure +protection. But it was the wonderful scenery and extraordinary objects +of interest in the Park which were then thought of; the forests and the +game did not enter much into the consideration of the founders. And so +Congress passed the Act of 1872, merely defining the limits of the Park +and committing it to the keeping of the Department of the Interior, +which was empowered to make rules and regulations for its control. + +A great work was accomplished when Congress was persuaded to forever +dedicate this marvelous region as a National Park, for the benefit of +the entire country; and it was hoped and expected that Congress would, +in time, supplement the organizing Act by the needful additional +legislation. But this was not to be had for many years to come. For +some time after the year 1872, the reservation was occasionally visited +by a few adventurous spirits or Government parties on exploring +expeditions. During that period it became the refuge of the large game +which had gradually receded from the lower country before the advance of +settlement and railroads. The abundance of game astonished all who +beheld it. Bears, deer, elk, sheep, moose, antelope, buffalo, wolverines +and many other kinds of wild beasts were collected within an area which +afforded peculiar advantages to each and all. Nowhere else could such a +gathering of game be found in one locality. It should be remembered that +those who visited the Park in the early days we have mentioned confined +their investigations to a limited portion of it. The great winter ranges +and breeding grounds were almost unknown. During this period, game +killing was so slight and the supply so great that restrictions, by +those exercising a very uncertain authority in the reservation, were +hardly pretended to be enforced. + +But from about the year 1878 the depredations on the game of the Park +attained alarming proportions. The number of visitors had largely +increased. The skin hunter and the record hunter--twin brothers in +iniquity--appeared on the scene, and their number grew from year to +year. It was then that regulations and prohibitions were promulgated +from the Department of the Interior, but they were known to contain only +vain threats, which could be defied with impunity. And so the slaughter +continued, and likewise other depredations. Learned associations, +sportsmen's associations, visitors of all lands, showered petitions upon +Congress to pass some protective law. All that Congress did, however, +was in 1883 to confer authority for the use of troops in the Park. This +was something, and the effect of their presence was very beneficial, and +insured the only protection the Park had until the present time. +Congress seemed affected with an apathy which no appeals could change. +The result was non-action. + +Some Congressmen thought they were justified in declining to take any +interest in the matter, because few, if any, of their constituents had +ever visited the Park. Others thought that it should be a Wyoming or +Montana affair, and should be turned over to one or the other of those +then territories. A few seemed to labor under the impression that the +Park was nothing but a private pleasure ground, resorted to by the +wealthy class, and that it was no part of the Constitutional functions +of a Republican Government to afford security to wild animals, or to +incur any expense therefor. These narrow views were not shared by most +of the principal men in Congress; among these we had many staunch +friends, including especially several who held seats in the Senate. +Chief among them was Senator Vest, of Missouri, who at all times was +found ready to do everything in his power to promote the welfare of the +Park. Senator Manderson, of Nebraska, and many others were quite as +willing. It was largely due to the gentlemen we have named that the +Senate, as a body, was imbued with their views, and on all occasions +recognized the important national objects to be attained by the Park, +not only as a great game preserve, but also as a great forest +reservation of the highest economic importance. + +With the assistance of some of the present members of the Boone and +Crockett Club, a bill was framed which afforded in its provisions ample +protection to the Park, while it added largely to its area on the south +and on the east, embracing the great breeding grounds of the elk. This +bill was introduced by Senator Vest. But new difficulties now arose, +more serious than any hitherto encountered. By the completion of the +Northern Pacific Railroad a large influx of travel set in toward the +Park. It was now thought money was to be made there. Railroads through +it were talked about. Mines, situated near its northern border, were +said to contain untold wealth, needing only a railroad for their +development. A mining camp, called Cooke City, was started, and it was +urged that a railroad could reach it only by going through the Park. +Corporate influences made themselves felt. The bill introduced by +Senator Vest again and again, in session after session, passed the +Senate. The promoters of a railroad through the Park thought they saw +their opportunity. Afraid to launch their scheme of spoliation before +Congress as an independent measure, they sought to attach it as a rider +to the Park bill. They reasoned that those who desired the passage of +that bill regarded it as so important that they would be willing to +consent to its carrying a railroad rather than see all legislation on +the subject dropped or defeated. The plan was well conceived, but failed +of execution. The friends of the bill recognized that it was wiser to +leave the Park unprotected than to consent to what would be its +destruction. They recognized that, once railroads were allowed within +the Park, it would be a reservation only in name, and that before long +the forests and the game would both disappear. They therefore refused +the bait held out to them by the railroad promoters, who thereafter +always blocked the passage of the Park bill. In return they were always +defeated in their own scheme. The House Committee having the protection +bill in charge never failed to burden it with the railroad right of way +whenever it came to them, blandly ignoring the evident fact that a +railroad was not an appropriate nor a relevant feature to a law for the +protection of the Park. And so it happened that the bill which had been +the child of affection became an object of dread, and was denounced as +bitterly as it had before been advocated by its original friends. It was +thought better to have it die on the calendar than to take the risk of +its adoption by the House of Representatives with the obnoxious +amendment incorporated by the committee. + +Apart from that amendment, it was feared the bill would not only +encounter an opposition instigated by pecuniary interests, but might +itself fail to call to its support any counteracting influence. Those +who opposed the railroad, and notably the members of the Boone and +Crockett Club, who invariably appeared before the Public Lands Committee +to argue against it, were at the very least stigmatized as +"sentimentalists," who impeded material progress--as busybodies, who, +needing nothing themselves, interfered to prevent other people from +obtaining what was necessary and beneficial to commerce. With practical +legislators such animadversions are frequently not lacking in force, for +nothing more incurs their contempt than a measure which has not what +they call a _practical object_, by which they mean a _moneyed object_. +While throughout the country there was considerable general interest +taken in the preservation of the Park, such influence was not +sufficiently concentrated to make itself felt by Congress. The Park was +everybody's affair, and in the House of Representatives no one could be +found to take any special interest in it. And so the fight went on from +year to year. In Congress after Congress the bill was passed in the +Senate, and emerged from the House Committee on Public Lands weighted +down by the burden of the railroad. Secretary after Secretary of the +Interior protested against this feature of the bill, and so did every +officer of the Government who had any part in the administration or +exploration of the Park. But their protests were without effect on the +committee, which in those days seemed to regard the railroad as the most +important feature of the bill. + +It was clearly shown that the railroad would not only be most harmful to +the Park, but could serve no useful purpose; for it was quite possible +for a railroad to reach the mines without touching the Park, whereas the +projected route cut through the Park for a distance of some fifty miles. +The public press throughout the country was almost unanimous in +denouncing the threatened invasion of the reservation. But the railroad +in interest had a strong lobby at work, and many of the inhabitants in +the territories and States nearest the Park showed the most selfish +indifference to its preservation, and a greedy desire to plunder it. The +railroad lobbyists were very active. They saw the necessity of trying to +avoid openly outraging public opinion. Accordingly they changed the +bill, so that, instead of conferring a right of way through the Park, it +segregated and threw out of the reservation that portion through which +the railroad was to go. This was supposed to be a concession to public +sentiment; but it must have been thought that the public were very +easily deceived, for there was really no concession at all, save to the +railroad interests. Instead of a _right of way_ through a portion of the +Park, they now asked, and were offered by the committee, the land +itself. The Committee of the House proposed that this land should be +thrown out of the Park, and any and all railroads be allowed to scramble +for it. The area thus doomed is situated north of the Yellowstone River, +and constitutes one of the most attractive portions of the Park. It +includes the only great winter range of the elk. In the winter there can +be seen there some 5,000 animals, and no one who has traveled over this +region in summer has failed to observe the enormous number of shed +horns, showing how extensively the range is resorted to by this noble +animal. Here too can be found a large band of antelope at all times, +numbering about 500, and a smaller, but considerable, band of mountain +sheep. + +The friends of the Park succeeded in stopping the proposed railroad +legislation, but they could accomplish nothing else in Congress. They +had more success with another branch of the Government. There was a +statute authorizing the President to set apart any part of the public +domain as a forest reservation. Taking advantage of this, certain +members of the Boone and Crockett Club saw an opportunity of +substantially obtaining the enlargement of the Park which they had been +vainly endeavoring to obtain from Congress. They laid the matter before +General Noble, then Secretary of the Interior. He recommended to +President Harrison that the tract in question should be constituted a +forest reserve. This was done. In 1891 the President issued a +proclamation, establishing the Yellowstone Park Forest Reserve. It +embraced some 1,800 square miles, abutting on the east and south +boundaries of the Park. The Secretary afterward had the same regulations +extended to the Reserve as had been put in operation in the Park. This +important action was followed by further proclamations, instituting +other forest reservations in different sections of the country. The +Executive and its representative, the Department of the Interior, have +at all times been most sympathetic and helpful in the movement for +forest and game preservation. They have sternly resisted all assaults +upon the Park. + +The organization of the Boone and Crockett Club had been a great step +toward Park protection. Its membership included those who had shown most +interest in obtaining legislation. One of the main objects of the +society was the preservation of the game and the forests. It brought +together a body of men whose motives were entirely disinterested, and +who were able to make their influence felt. To their efforts must be +largely attributed the success which was ultimately attained. But that +success might have been indefinitely deferred had not Congress been +awakened to its duty by an event as shocking as it was unlooked for. + +For years one of the cherished objects of the Park had been the +preservation of perhaps the only surviving band of buffalo. It had +sought refuge in the mountains. It was known to be on the increase and +it was supposed that it would remain unmolested. Its number had been +estimated as high as 500. Its habitat was a wild and rugged country, +affording a seemingly secure asylum. For a long time these buffalo +remained comparatively safe. In the summer it would have been of no use +to slaughter them for their heads and hides. In the winter the snow was +so deep and their haunts so remote as to render it well nigh impossible +to pack heads or hides out to a market. But a desperate man was found to +take desperate chances. The trouble came to the Park from the mining +camp of Cooke. A notorious poacher named Howell made it his +headquarters. Its proximity to the northeast boundary of the Park made +it a convenient point from which to conduct his raids and to which he +might convey his booty. If he killed even a single buffalo, and safely +packed out of the Park its head or hide, he was sure of realizing a +large sum. If he was captured while making the attempt, he knew he was +safe from punishment, and that there was no penalty, even if there was +an offense. A less lawless man might have indulged a flexible conscience +with the idea that, as there was no punishment, there was no crime. A +similar view of ethics had been indulged in by a prominent member of the +gospel, who had killed game in the Park, and sought extenuation on the +ground that he had not violated any law. But Howell was not a man who +sought to justify his actions; it was sufficient for him that he +incurred no risk. The time he selected for his deed of destruction he +thought the most propitious for covering up his tracks. His operations +were conducted in the most tempestuous weather in that most tempestuous +month, March, in the year 1894. The snow then was deepest, and Howell +felt there would be little chance of interference by scouting or other +parties. Eluding the guard stationed in the northern portion of the +Park, on stormy nights, he stole into the Park and built a lodge in the +locality where the buffalo wintered. In it he stored his supplies, which +he had conveyed on a toboggan. He traveled on _skis_, the Norwegian +snowshoes, ten feet long, which are generally used in the Northwestern +country. This enabled him to traverse the roughest mountain range with +ease and great rapidity, even in the deepest snow. Once established, the +killing was an easy matter. He had only to find the buffalo where the +snow was deep. The ponderous, unwieldy animals had small chance of +escape from his pursuit. His quarry was soon located, and he needed no +assistance to make a surround; for, while the frightened, confused +beasts were plunging in the snow, in a vain attempt to extricate +themselves, the butcher glided swiftly around them on his snowshoes, +approaching as close as he chose. With his rapid-firing gun he +slaughtered them as easily as if they had been cattle in a corral. How +many he killed will never be known. The remains of many of his victims +will never be found. + +[Illustration: IN YELLOWSTONE PARK SNOWS.] + +But while the ruffian was busiest in his bloody work, a man was speeding +over the snow toward him from the south. He too was on _skis_. He too +was a mountain man, who thought as little of the obstacles before him as +Howell did. But the object of his trip was not the buffalo, but Howell. +It was human game he was pursuing. Howell had not covered up his tracks +as well as he thought. The trailer had struck a trail which he never +left till it brought him to the object of his pursuit. This man was +Burgess, the Yellowstone Park scout. He had learned of Howell's presence +in the Park, and was sent out, with the intention of apprehending him, +by the energetic superintendent, Captain Anderson. He proceeded on his +course as swiftly as a howling wind would permit, when he was surprised +by seeing suspended from some trees six buffalo scalps. He now felt that +he was in close vicinity to the man he was hunting, and that his +business had become a serious one. He knew the man who had done that +deed was prepared to resist and commit a greater crime. But this did not +deter him and he again took the trail. He had proceeded only a short +distance when he heard six shots. Hastening up a hill, he saw Howell +engaged in butchering five buffalo, the victims of the six shots. +Howell's gun was resting on the body of one of the slain animals, a few +feet away from where he was engaged in removing a scalp from another of +the bison. So occupied was he in his work that he did not perceive the +scout, who had emerged in plain view, and who silently glided to the +weapon, and, securing it, had Howell at his mercy. The demand to throw +up his hands was the first intimation Howell had that he was not alone +in the buffalo country. It must have been difficult for the scout at +that moment not to forget that ours is a Government of law, and to +refrain from making as summary an end of Howell as Howell had made of +the buffalo. + +The poacher accepted his capture with equanimity, casually remarking +that if he had seen Burgess first he never would have been captured. He +was conveyed to the post headquarters. As soon as the Secretary of the +Interior heard of his arrest, he ordered his discharge, as there was no +law by which he could be detained or otherwise punished. Howell was +proud of his achievement and of the notoriety it gave him, boasting +that he had killed altogether eighty of the bison. This statement may +only have been made for the purpose of magnifying his crime and so +enhancing his importance. It may, however, be true. Besides those +actually known to have been slaughtered by him, the remains of thirteen +other bison, it is said, have been found in the Park. It is probable +they were all killed by him. + +When the intelligence of what had happened reached the country, much +indignation was manifested. The public, which after all did have a vague +sense of pride in the Park, and a rather loose wish to see it cared for, +was shocked and surprised to discover that no law existed by which the +offense could be reached. They were aroused to the knowledge that the +Park was the only portion of our domain uncontrolled by law. The Boone +and Crockett Club took prompt advantage of this awakened feeling, and +redoubled its efforts to secure action by the National Legislature. +Congress had long been deaf to the appeals of the few individuals who, +year after year, endeavored to obtain a law; but now, at last, they +realized that some action was really needed if they desired to save +anything in the Park. Mr. Lacey, of Iowa, the gentleman whom we have +mentioned as having had a practical experience of the condition of +affairs in the Park, was naturally the first to take hold of the +opportunity which public opinion afforded. He willingly adopted the +chief jurisdictional and police features contained in the Park bill to +which we have so frequently referred as repeatedly passing the Senate. +He readily acquiesced in all the amendments which were proposed by +members of the Boone and Crockett Club. The Club pushed the matter +vigorously. The aid of many prominent members of the House of +Representatives was enlisted. Before the hostile railroad party knew of +the movement, the bill was presented to the House, unanimous consent for +its consideration obtained, and it was passed. In the Senate the bill +was among its friends, and Senator Vest was again instrumental in +securing its passage. The promoters of the railroad scheme thought it +more prudent not to meddle with the bill in the Senate, as they would +have been certain to have encountered defeat. + +The Act provides penalties and the means of enforcing them, and thus +secures adequate protection. It makes the violation of any rule or +regulation of the Secretary of the Interior a misdemeanor. It prohibits +the killing or capture of game, or the taking of fish in an unlawful +manner. It forbids transportation of game, and for the violation of the +Act or regulations it imposes a fine not to exceed $1,000, or +imprisonment not to exceed two years, or both. It also confiscates the +traps, guns and means of transport of persons engaged in killing or +capturing game. Finally a local magistrate is appointed, with +jurisdiction to try all offenders violating the law governing the Park, +and it specifies the jurisdiction over felonies committed in the Park. +By a happy coincidence the new system was inaugurated by the trial and +conviction of the first offender put on trial, and it was Howell who was +the first prisoner in the dock. He had returned to the Park after the +passage of the law, and was tried and convicted of violating the order +of the Secretary of the Interior, by which he was expelled after he had +slaughtered the buffalo. This was retributive justice indeed. The Club +had desired that the law should be extended by Congress over the +Yellowstone Park Forest Reserve, but legal difficulties were +encountered, so that this protection had to be deferred. It is to be +hoped that in the near future this important adjunct to the Park may +have the same law applied to it. + +The Park is now on a solid foundation, and all that is necessary for its +future welfare is the prevention of adverse legislation cutting down its +limits or authorizing railroads within it. In the winter of 1894-95 the +railroad scheme, now disguised under the form of a bill to regulate the +boundaries of the Park, came up again. This was the old segregation +plan. It aimed not only to cut off from the Park that valuable portion +already described, and embracing 367 square miles north of the +Yellowstone, but also to make extensive cuts in the Forest Reserve for +railroad and other purposes, amounting to 640 square miles. This +spoliation was not permitted. Congress seemed at last to be determined +to support the Park intact, and the Committee of the Fifty-fourth +Congress in the House having the Park legislation in charge manifested +this disposition by adverse reports on all the bills to authorize +railroads and on the segregation bill as well. + +The present boundaries only need marking on the ground--a mere matter of +departmental action. There is no need of legislation on the subject. The +boundaries, especially on the north, afford such natural features as +constitute the best possible barrier to prevent depredation from +without, and to insure the retention of the game within, the Park. +Notwithstanding the inadequacy of the protection in former years, the +game has increased largely, especially since the military occupation. +Competent authority has estimated the number of elk as high as 20,000, +though this is probably too large a figure. Moose are frequently +encountered. Mountain sheep and antelope are found in goodly numbers. It +is doubtful now whether there are over 200 buffalo left. Bears of the +different varieties are very plentiful and deer are also quite abundant. +The animals thoroughly appreciate their security. They have largely lost +their fear of man. Antelope and sheep can be seen in the vicinity of the +stage roads, and are not disturbed by constant travel. Wild geese, ducks +and other birds refuse to rise from the water near which men pass. + +But bears show the most indifference for human presence. Attracted by +the food obtained, they frequent the neighborhood of the hotels in the +Park. The writer of these notes, together with some companions, had a +good opportunity, in the latter part of August, 1894, to observe how +bold and careless these generally wary animals may become if not hunted. + +When we reached the Lake Hotel, the clerk asked us if we wished to see a +bear, as he could show us one after we had finished dinner. We went with +him to a spot some 200 feet back of the hotel, where refuse was +deposited. It was then a little after sunset. We waited some moments, +when the clerk, taking his watch out of his pocket said, "It is strange +he has not come down; he is now a little overdue." Before he had +replaced his watch, he exclaimed, "Here he comes now," and we saw +descending slowly from a hill close by a very large black bear. The bear +approached us, when I said to the clerk, "Had not we better get behind +the timber? He will be frightened off should he see us." He answered, +"No, he will not be frightened in the least," and continued to converse +with us in a loud voice. We were then standing in the open close by a +swill heap and the bear was coming toward us, there being no timber +intervening. We did not move, but continued talking. The bear came up to +us without hesitation, diverging slightly from his direct route to the +swill heap so as to approach nearer to where we were. He surveyed us +leisurely, with his nose in the air, got our scent, and, seeming content +that we were only harmless human beings, turned slowly away and went to +the refuse, where he proceeded to make a meal. We watched him for quite +a while, when a large wagon passing along the road nigh to where we +stood, the bear stopped feeding and turned toward the hotel in the +direction in which the wagon was traveling. Our guide exclaimed, "He has +gone to visit the pig sty," and in a little while we were satisfied this +was so by hearing a loud outcry of "b'ar, b'ar," which we afterward +found proceeded from a Chinaman, one of whose special duties it was to +keep bears out of the pig sty. + +[Illustration: ON THE SHORE OF YELLOWSTONE LAKE.] + +After the departure of the black bear we retraced our steps, but before +getting to the hotel I suggested to one of my companions, Del. Hay, that +if we returned to the refuse pile we might see another bear. We +accordingly went back on the trail to within a few yards of where we +stood before. When we stopped we heard, in the timber near by, a great +noise, as if dead pine branches were being smashed, and there emerged +into the open a large grizzly. Although he was not quite so familiar as +the black bear, he showed no hesitation, but walked straight toward us +and the object of his visit--the swill. Before reaching his +destination, however, he stopped and squatted on his haunches, calmly +surveying the scene before him. The reason why he stopped became at once +apparent. From the same hill down which the black bear had come we saw +another grizzly, larger than the first, moving toward us at a rapid +gait, in fact, on a lope, while the first grizzly regarded him with a +look not altogether friendly or cordial. The second bear did not stop an +instant until he reached the swill heap, where he proceeded to devour +everything in sight, without any regard to us or to his fellow squatted +near by. The latter apparently had had some experience on a former +occasion which he was not desirous of repeating. + +Three men coming through the timber toward us made a considerable +racket, and the two bears moved off at no rapid gait in opposite +directions; but they went only a short way. Until we left the spot we +could see them on the edge of the timber, looking toward us, and, no +doubt, waiting for more quiet before partaking of the delights before +them. It was not easy to realize the scene before us was actual. The dim +twilight, the huge forms of the bears pacing to and fro through the +whitened dead timber, made it appear the creation of a disordered fancy. +It did not seem natural to be in close proximity with animals esteemed +so ferocious, at liberty in their native wilds, with no desire to attack +them and with no disposition on their part to attack us. When the three +men joined us and were talking about the bears, one of them shouted, +"Here come two more," and before we could realize it we saw two +good-sized cinnamons at the feast. They paid no attention whatever to +us, but were entirely absorbed in finishing up what the other bears had +left. By this time it was fast becoming dark and we returned to the +hotel. I should have said that we measured the distance from the nearest +point from the black bear to where we stood, and found it to be exactly +twenty-one feet. The other bears were but a few yards further. + +When we returned to the house we entertained our friends with an account +of what we had seen, and had there not been many eye-witnesses we +probably would have been entirely disbelieved.[14] As we were narrating +our story a man came into the room and said, "If you want some fun, come +outside; we have a bear up a tree." We went outside of the hotel, and +not over forty feet from it found a black bear in a pine tree. It seems +that the wagon, already mentioned, had been stopped at the pine tree and +the horses had been taken out. The owner, returning to his wagon, found +the bear in it, and this was the explanation why the bear had so +suddenly taken to the tree. + + [14] Colonel John Hay, of Washington, was one of the spectators of + this curious scene. Captain Albrecht Heese, of the German Embassy, + tells us that in July, 1895, while stopping at the Lake Hotel, he saw + a very large bear eating out of a trough in the daytime while a number + of tourists were present; and that the bear was finally chased away + from the trough by a cow. At the Upper Geyser Basin a bear was + domiciled in the hotel; it took food from the hands of the hotel + keeper, following him around like a dog. + +The animal was considerably smaller than the one we had seen earlier; in +fact, it was not more than half as large, but still full grown. Quite a +number of packers and teamsters stood about, amusing themselves by +making the bear climb higher, till at last one of them asked our driver, +Jim McMasters, why he did not climb the tree and shake the bear out. It +was quite dark, and McMasters replied that he would not mind doing so if +there were enough daylight for him to see. His companions continuing to +banter him, he finally said, "I believe I'll go up anyhow," and up he +went, climbing, however--instead of the tree the bear had ascended--a +companion tree which grew alongside of the other, the trunks of the two +not being more than a foot or so apart and the branches interlaced. We +soon lost sight of McMasters and of the bear also; for, as Jim climbed +the bear would climb too, until at last they both had reached the top of +their respective perches, when we heard Jim cry out, "Boys, he's got to +come down; I can reach him." With that he proceeded to break off a small +branch of his tree, and we could hear him whack the bear with it, and +also could hear the bear remonstrating with a very unpleasant voice, at +times approaching a roar. But at last the bear seemed to have made up +his mind that it was better to come down than stay up and be whacked +with a pine branch, so down he came, but not with any great rapidity, +stopping at every resting place, until Jim came down too and gave him a +little persuading. + +We could now see the action, but its dangerous features were lost sight +of in its amusing ones. Jim had climbed into the tree down which the +bear was descending, and when he was not persuading the bear he was +pleading with us somewhat as follows: "Now, boys, don't throw up here, +and don't none of you hit him until he gets down. If he should make up +his mind to come up again he'd clean me out, sure." After each speech of +this sort he would move down to where the bear was and apply his branch, +whereupon both the man and the animal would descend a few pegs lower. +At last the bear was almost near the ground. We all formed a circle +around the tree, prepared to give both man and beast a reception when +they should alight. The beast came first, and every fellow who had +anything in the way of wood in his hand gave the bear a blow or two as a +warning not to return to the wagon again. Bruin made off into the timber +with great precipitancy. Jim, when he got down, did not seem to think +that he had done anything more than if the bear had been a "possum," +which he had shaken out of the tree. + + + + +Head-Measurements of the Trophies at the Madison Square Garden +Sportsmen's Exhibition + + +During the week beginning May 14, 1895, there was held in Madison Square +Garden, New York, a Sportsmen's Exhibition. There was a fair exhibit of +heads, horns and skins, for which the credit largely belongs to +Frederick S. Webster, the taxidermist. + +At the request of the managers of the Exhibition, three of the members +of the Boone and Crockett Club--Messrs. Theodore Roosevelt, George Bird +Grinnell and Archibald Rogers--were appointed a Committee on +Measurements. There were heads and skins of every kind of North American +big game. Many of them were exhibited by amateur sportsmen, including +various members of the Boone and Crockett Club, while many others were +exhibited by furriers and taxidermists. + +Some of the measurements are worth recording. For convenience we +tabulate, in the case of each animal, the measurements of the specimens +exhibited by amateur sportsmen who themselves shot the animals. For +purposes of comparison we add the measurements of a few big heads +exhibited by taxidermists or furriers; also for purposes of comparison +we quote the figures given in two works published with special +reference to the question of horn measurements. One is the "Catalogue +and Notes of the American Hunting Trophies Exhibition" at London in +1887. The moving spirit in this exhibition was Mr. E. M. Buxton, who was +assisted by all the most noted English sportsmen who had shot in +America. The result was a noteworthy collection of trophies, almost all +of which belonged to animals shot by the exhibitors themselves. Very few +Americans took part in the exhibition, though several did so, one of the +two finest moose heads being exhibited by an American sportsman. + +The other big game book quoted is Rowland Ward's "Measurements," +published in London in 1892. This is a very valuable compilation of +authentic records of horn measurements gathered from many different +sources. In many cases it quotes from Mr. Buxton's catalogue. The +largest elk head, for instance, given by Ward is the one mentioned in +the Buxton catalogue. But in most instances the top measurements given +by Ward stand above the top measurements given in the catalogue, because +the latter, as already said, contains only a record of the trophies of +amateur sportsmen, whereas many of Ward's best measurements are from +museum specimens, or from picked heads obtained from furriers or +taxidermists, who chose the best out of those presented by many hundreds +of professional hunters. + +At the Madison Square exhibition there were numerous bear skins, polar, +grizzly and black, submitted by men who had shot them. There were a few +wolf and cougar skins and one peccary head; but there was no +satisfactory way of making measurements of any of these. The peccary's +head, which was submitted by Mr. Roosevelt, of course, had the tusks in +the skull, so that it was not possible to measure them; for the same +reason it was not possible to measure the skulls which were in the heads +of the bear, wolf and cougar skins exhibited by Mr. Roosevelt. + +There were few Oregon blacktail deer heads exhibited, and these were not +large. The one exhibited by Mr. Roosevelt, for instance, had horns 21 +inches in length, 4 inches in girth and 17 inches in spread. + +In measuring most horns it is comparatively easy to get some relative +idea of the size of the heads by giving simply the girth and length. The +spread is often given also; but this is not a good measurement, as a +rule, because, in mounting the head, it is very easy to increase the +spread; and, moreover, even where the spread is natural, it may be +excessive and out of proportion to the length of the horns, in which +case it amounts to a deformity. The length is in every case measured +from the butt to the tip along the outside curve of the horn. The girth +is given at the butt in the case of buffalo, sheep, goat and antelope; +but in the case of deer it is given at the narrowest part of the horn, +above the first tine; in elk this narrowest part comes between the bay +and tray points; in blacktail and whitetail deer it comes above the +"dog-killer" points, and below the main fork in the horn. Even in the +case of elk, deer, sheep and buffalo the measurements of length and +girth do not always indicate how fine a head is, although they generally +give at least an approximate idea. The symmetry of the head cannot be +indicated by these measurements. In elk and deer heads, extra points, +though sometimes mere deformities, yet when large and symmetrical add +greatly to the appearance and value of the head, making it heavier and +grander in every way, and being a proof of great strength and vitality +of the animal and of the horn itself. In consequence, although the +measurements of length and girth generally afford a good test of the +relative worth of buffalo, elk, sheep and deer heads, it is not by any +means an infallible test. + +With moose and caribou heads the test of mere length and girth is of far +less value; for many of them have such extraordinary antlers that the +measurements of length and girth mean but little, and give hardly any +idea of the weight and beauty of the antlers. With moose a better idea +of these qualities can be obtained by measuring the extreme breadth of +the palmation, and the extreme length from the tip of the brow point +backward in each horn. Caribou horns are often of such fantastic shape +that the actual measurements, taken in any ordinary way, give but a very +imperfect idea of the value of the trophies. Very long horns are sure to +be fine specimens, and yet they may not be nearly as fine as those which +are much shorter, but more branched, and with the branches longer, +broader and heavier, and at the same time more beautiful. Thus, at the +Madison Square Garden, C. G. Gunther's Sons, the furriers, exhibited one +caribou with antlers 50 inches long, of the barren ground type, with 43 +points. These horns were very slender, and would not have weighed more +than a third as much as an enormous pair belonging to a woodland +caribou, which were some 10 inches shorter in extreme length, and with +rather fewer points, but were more massive in every way, the beam being +far larger, and all of the tines being palmated to a really +extraordinary extent. + + + + +_TABULATED SERIES_ + +With name of owner, and locality and date of capture. + + +BISON BULL. + + Girth. Length. + 1. P. Liebinger, Western Montana, '93 12-1/2 19 + 2. Theodore Roosevelt, Medora, N. D., Sept., '83 12-3/4 14 + 3. Theodore Roosevelt, S. W. Montana, Sept., '89 12-1/2 17-1/2 + + No. 2 was an old stub-horn bull, the animal being bigger in body + than No. 3, which, like No. 1, was a bull in the prime of life. + +F. Sauter, the taxidermist, exhibited a head killed in Montana in 1894, +which measured 14 inches in girth and 18 inches in length. + +In Ward's book the horns of the biggest bison given measure 15 inches in +girth and 20-7/8 inches in length. + + +BIG-HORN SHEEP. + + Girth. Length. Spread. + 4. Geo. H. Gould, Lower Cal., Dec., '94 16-1/4 42-1/2 25-3/4 + 5. G. O. Shields, Ashnola River, B. C. 16-1/4 37-3/4 22-1/2 + 6. Arch. Rogers, N. W. Wyoming 16 34 17 + 7. Arch. Rogers, N. W. Wyoming 15-1/2 33-1/2 23 + 8. T. Roosevelt, Little Mo. River, N. D. 16 29-1/2 18-1/2 + + No. 4 had the tip of one horn broken; it is on the whole the finest + head of which we have any record. + + No. 5 was a very heavy head, the horns huge and with blunted tips. + +A head was exhibited by C. G. Gunther's Sons which measured 17-3/4 +inches in girth, although it was but 33-1/2 inches in length. + +In Buxton's catalogue the three biggest rams exhibited by English +sportsmen had horns which measured respectively, in girth and length, +15-3/4 and 39 inches, 16-3/8 and 38-1/4 inches, and 16-1/2 and 31 +inches. + +In Ward's catalogue the biggest specimen given had horns which were +17-1/4 inches in girth and 41 inches in length. + + +WHITE GOAT. + + Girth. Length. + 9. Walter James, Swift Current River, Mont., '92 5-3/4 10-1/2 + 10. T. Roosevelt, Big Hole Basin, Mont., Aug., '89 5-1/16 9-1/16 + 11. Theodore Roosevelt, Heron, Mont., Sept., '86 5 9-3/4 + + No. 11 was a female; as the horns of the female white goat always + are, these horns were a little longer and slenderer than those of + No. 10, which was a big-bodied buck. + +In Buxton's catalogue the biggest horns given were 5 inches in girth and +8-1/4 inches in length. The two biggest specimens given in Ward's were 5 +inches in girth by 10-1/8 inches, and 5-1/2 by 9-1/2 inches. + + +MUSK OX. + +There was no musk ox head exhibited by an amateur sportsman. One, which +was exhibited by W. W. Hart & Co., had horns each of which was 29-3/4 +inches by 20-1/2 inches; the height of the boss was 13 inches. One of +the members of the Boone and Crockett Club, Mr. Caspar W. Whitney, has +this year, 1895, killed a number of musk ox; but he did not return from +his winter trip to the Barren Grounds until June. + + +PRONGBUCK. + + Girth. Length. + 12. Theodore Roosevelt, Medora, N. D., Sept., '84 6-1/2 16 + 13. A. Rogers 6 12-1/2 + 14. A. Rogers 6-1/4 10-7/8 + + No. 13 measured from tip to tip 6-1/8 inches. The greatest width + inside the horns was 8-5/8 inches; the corresponding figures for + No. 14 were 7-3/4 and 10-1/4 inches. + +In Buxton's catalogue the largest measurements given were for a specimen +which girthed 5-1/8 inches, and was in length 15-3/4 inches. + +In Ward's catalogue the two biggest specimens given measured +respectively 15-3/4 inches in length by 6-1/4 inches in girth, and +12-7/8 inches in length by 6-1/2 inches in girth. + + +WAPITI OR ROUND-HORN ELK. + + Girth. Length. Spread. Points. + 15. A. Rogers, Northwestern Wyoming 8 64-1/4 48 7+7 + 16. G. O. Shields, Clark's Fork, Wyo. 8-1/4 51-3/8 50 6+7 + 17. T. Roosevelt, Two Ocean Pass, '91 6-7/8 56-1/2 46-3/8 6+6 + 18. T. Roosevelt, Two Ocean Pass, '91 7-3/4 50-3/4 47 6+6 + 19. P. Liebinger, Indian Creek, Mont. 6-1/8 50-1/2 54 8+8 + + No. 15, as far as we know, is the record head for amateur sportsmen + in point of length. + + No. 16 has very heavy massive antlers; though these are not so long + as the antlers of No. 17, yet No. 16 is really the finer head. + +In Buxton's catalogue the three finest heads measure respectively 8 +inches in girth by 62-1/2 inches in length by 48-1/2 inches spread, with +7+9 points; and 7-7/8 inches in girth by 60-3/4 inches in length by 52 +inches spread, with 6+6 points; and 8-1/2 inches in girth by 55 inches +in length by 41-1/4 spread, with 6+6 points. + +These are also the biggest heads given in Ward's catalogue. + + +MULE OR BLACKTAIL DEER. + + Girth. Length. Spread. + 20. T. Roosevelt, Medora, N. D., Oct. '83 5 26-7/8 28-1/2 + 21. P. Liebinger, Madison R., Mont., '89 4-3/4 25-1/2 25-1/2 + + No. 20 is an extremely massive and symmetrical head with 28 points. + + No. 21 has 35 points. + +A still heavier head than either of the above, with 34 points, was +exhibited by the furriers, C. G. Gunther's Sons; it was in girth 5-1/4 +inches, length 26 inches and spread 28-1/4 inches. + +In Buxton's catalogue the length of the biggest mule deer horn exhibited +was 28-1/2 inches. + +In Ward's catalogue the biggest heads measured respectively: girth 4-1/2 +inches by 28-5/8 inches length, and girth 5-1/4 inches by 27 inches +length; they had 10 and 11 points respectively. + + +WHITETAIL OR VIRGINIA DEER. + + Girth. Length. Spread. + 22. G. B. Grinnell, Dismal River, Neb., '77 4-5/8 24 19-1/2 + 23. T. Roosevelt, Medora, N. D., '94 4 22-1/2 15-3/4 + + No. 22 is a very fine head with 18 points; very symmetrical. No. 23 + has 12 points. + +In Ward's measurements the biggest whitetail horns are in girth 5-3/8 +inches, and in length 27-5/8 inches. + + +MOOSE. + + Girth. Length. Points. + 24. Col. Haselton, Chesuncook, Me., '87 8-1/2 41 27 + 25. A. Rogers 7 31-3/4 14 + 26. T. Roosevelt, Bitter Root Mt., + Mont., '89 5-1/2 30 22 + + No. 24, a pair of horns only, is, with the possible exception of a + head of Mr. Bierstadt's, the finest we have ever seen in the + possession of an amateur sportsman. The measurements of the palm of + one antler were 41-1/2 by 21-3/4 inches. + + No. 26 has a spread of 40-1/2 inches, and the palm measured 29 by + 13 inches. + +In Buxton's catalogue the biggest moose given had horns which in girth +were 8-1/2 inches and in length 35-1/2 inches; the palm was 41 by 24 +inches; the spread was 65 inches. These measurements indicate a head +about as fine as Col. Haselton's, taking everything into consideration. + +The largest head given by Ward was 6-1/2 inches in girth by 39-7/8 +inches in length and 51-3/8 inches spread. It had 25 points, and the +breadth of the palm was 15-3/4 inches. + +For the reason given above, it is difficult in the case of moose, and +far more difficult in the case of caribou, to judge the respective +merits of heads by the mere record of measurements. + + +CARIBOU. + + Girth. Length. Points. + 27. A. Rogers 4-3/4 41-1/4 16 + 28. T. Roosevelt, Kootenai, B. C., Sept., + '88 5-1/2 32 14 + +Neither of these is a big head. C. G. Gunther's Sons exhibited one +caribou with 43 points. Its horns were 5-7/8 inches in girth by 50 +inches in length. They also exhibited a much heavier head, which was but +37 inches long, but was 6-1/2 inches in girth, with all of the tines +highly palmated; one of the brow points had a palm 17-1/2 inches high. + +In Buxton's catalogue the biggest caribou antler given girthed 5-1/2 +inches and was in length 37-1/2 inches. The biggest measurements given +by Ward are 5-5/8 inches in girth by 60 inches in length for a specimen +with 37 points. + + + + +National Park Protective Act + + + An Act to protect the birds and animals in Yellowstone National + Park, and to punish crimes in said Park, and for other purposes. + +_Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United +States of America in Congress assembled_, That the Yellowstone National +Park, as its boundaries now are defined, or as they may be hereafter +defined or extended, shall be under the sole and exclusive jurisdiction +of the United States; and that all the laws applicable to places under +the sole and exclusive jurisdiction of the United States shall have +force and effect in said Park: _Provided, however_, That nothing in this +Act shall be construed to forbid the service in the Park of any civil or +criminal process of any court having jurisdiction in the States of +Idaho, Montana and Wyoming. All fugitives from justice taking refuge in +said Park shall be subject to the same laws as refugees from justice +found in the State of Wyoming. + +SEC. 2. That said Park, for all the purposes of this Act, shall +constitute a part of the United States judicial district of Wyoming, and +the district and circuit courts of the United States in and for said +district shall have jurisdiction of all offenses committed within said +Park. + +SEC. 3. That if any offense shall be committed in said Yellowstone +National Park, which offense is not prohibited or the punishment is not +specially provided for by any law of the United States or by any +regulation of the Secretary of the Interior, the offender shall be +subject to the same punishment as the laws of the State of Wyoming in +force at the time of the commission of the offense may provide for a +like offense in the said State; and no subsequent repeal of any such law +of the State of Wyoming shall affect any prosecution for said offense +committed within said Park. + +SEC. 4. That all hunting, or the killing, wounding, or capturing at any +time of any bird or wild animal, except dangerous animals, when it is +necessary to prevent them from destroying human life or inflicting an +injury, is prohibited within the limits of said Park; nor shall any fish +be taken out of the waters of the Park by means of seines, nets, traps, +or by the use of drugs or any explosive substances or compounds, or in +any other way than by hook and line, and then only at such seasons and +in such times and manner as may be directed by the Secretary of the +Interior. That the Secretary of the Interior shall make and publish such +rules and regulations as he may deem necessary and proper for the +management and care of the Park, and for the protection of the property +therein, especially for the preservation from injury or spoliation of +all timber, mineral deposits, natural curiosities, or wonderful objects +within said Park; and for the protection of the animals and birds in the +Park from capture or destruction, or to prevent their being frightened +or driven from the Park; and he shall make rules and regulations +governing the taking of fish from the streams or lakes in the Park. +Possession within the said Park of the dead bodies, or any part thereof, +of any wild bird or animal shall be _prima facie_ evidence that the +person or persons having the same are guilty of violating this Act. Any +person or persons, or stage or express company or railway company, +receiving for transportation any of the said animals, birds or fish so +killed, taken or caught shall be deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and +shall be fined for every such offense not exceeding three hundred +dollars. Any person found guilty of violating any of the provisions of +this Act, or any rule or regulation that may be promulgated by the +Secretary of the Interior with reference to the management and care of +the Park, or for the protection of the property therein, for the +preservation from injury or spoliation of timber, mineral deposits, +natural curiosities or wonderful objects within said Park, or for the +protection of the animals, birds and fish in the said Park, shall be +deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and shall be subjected to a fine of not +more than one thousand dollars, or imprisonment not exceeding two years, +or both, and be adjudged to pay all costs of the proceedings. + +That all guns, traps, teams, horses, or means of transportation of every +nature or description used by any person or persons within said Park +limits, when engaged in killing, trapping, ensnaring or capturing such +wild beasts, birds, or wild animals, shall be forfeited to the United +States, and may be seized by the officers in said Park and held pending +the prosecution of any person or persons arrested under charge of +violating the provisions of this Act, and upon conviction under this Act +of such person or persons using said guns, traps, teams, horses, or +other means of transportation, such forfeiture shall be adjudicated as a +penalty in addition to the other punishment provided in this Act. Such +forfeited property shall be disposed of and accounted for by and under +the authority of the Secretary of the Interior. + +SEC. 5. That the United States circuit court in said district shall +appoint a commissioner, who shall reside in the Park, who shall have +jurisdiction to hear and act upon all complaints made, of any and all +violations of the law, or of the rules and regulations made by the +Secretary of the Interior for the government of the Park, and for the +protection of the animals, birds and fish, and objects of interest +therein, and for other purposes authorized by this Act. Such +commissioner shall have power, upon sworn information, to issue process +in the name of the United States for the arrest of any person charged +with the commission of any misdemeanor, or charged with the violation of +the rules and regulations, or with the violation of any provision of +this Act prescribed for the government of said Park, and for the +protection of the animals, birds and fish in the said Park, and to try +the person so charged; and, if found guilty, to impose the punishment +and adjudge the forfeiture prescribed. In all cases of conviction an +appeal shall lie from the judgment of said commissioner to the United +States district court for the district of Wyoming, said appeal to be +governed by the laws of the State of Wyoming providing for appeals in +cases of misdemeanor from justices of the peace to the district court of +said State; but the United States circuit court in said district may +prescribe rules of procedure and practice for said commissioner in the +trial of cases and for appeal to said United States district court. Said +commissioner shall also have power to issue process as hereinbefore +provided for the arrest of any person charged with the commission of any +felony within the Park, and to summarily hear the evidence introduced, +and, if he shall determine that probable cause is shown for holding the +person so charged for trial, shall cause such person to be safely +conveyed to a secure place for confinement, within the jurisdiction of +the United States district court in said State of Wyoming, and shall +certify a transcript of the record of his proceedings and the testimony +in the case to the said court, which court shall have jurisdiction of +the case: _Provided_, That the said commissioner shall grant bail in all +cases bailable under the laws of the United States or of said State. All +process issued by the commissioner shall be directed to the marshal of +the United States for the district of Wyoming; but nothing herein +contained shall be construed as preventing the arrest by any officer of +the Government or employee of the United States in the Park without +process of any person taken in the act of violating the law or any +regulation of the Secretary of the Interior: _Provided_, That the said +commissioner shall only exercise such authority and powers as are +conferred by this Act. + +SEC. 6. That the marshal of the United States for the district of +Wyoming may appoint one or more deputy marshals for said Park, who shall +reside in said Park, and the said United States district and circuit +courts shall hold one session of said courts annually at the town of +Sheridan, in the State of Wyoming, and may also hold other sessions at +any other place in said State of Wyoming or in said National Park at +such dates as the said courts may order. + +SEC. 7. That the commissioner provided for in this Act shall, in +addition to the fees allowed by law to commissioners of the circuit +courts of the United States, be paid an annual salary of one thousand +dollars, payable quarterly, and the marshal of the United States and his +deputies, and the attorney of the United States and his assistants in +said district, shall be paid the same compensation and fees as are now +provided by law for like services in said district. + +SEC. 8. That all costs and expenses arising in cases under this Act, and +properly chargeable to the United States, shall be certified, approved +and paid as like costs and expenses in the courts of the United States +are certified, approved and paid under the laws of the United States. + +SEC. 9. That the Secretary of the Interior shall cause to be erected in +the Park a suitable building to be used as a jail, and also having in +said building an office for the use of the commissioner; the cost of +such building not to exceed five thousand dollars, to be paid out of any +moneys in the Treasury not otherwise appropriated upon the certificate +of the Secretary as a voucher therefor. + +SEC. 10. That this Act shall not be construed to repeal existing laws +conferring upon the Secretary of the Interior and the Secretary of War +certain powers with reference to the protection, improvement and control +of the said Yellowstone National Park. + +Approved May 7, 1894. + + + + +Constitution of the Boone and Crockett Club + +FOUNDED DECEMBER, 1887. + + +Article I. + +This Club shall be known as the Boone and Crockett Club. + + +Article II. + +The objects of the Club shall be-- + +1. To promote manly sport with the rifle. + +2. To promote travel and exploration in the wild and unknown, or but +partially known, portions of the country. + +3. To work for the preservation of the large game of this country, and, +so far as possible, to further legislation for that purpose, and to +assist in enforcing the existing laws. + +4. To promote inquiry into, and to record observations on the habits and +natural history of, the various wild animals. + +5. To bring about among the members the interchange of opinions and +ideas on hunting, travel and exploration; on the various kinds of +hunting-rifles; on the haunts of game animals, etc. + + +Article III. + +No one shall be eligible for membership who shall not have killed with +the rifle in fair chase, by still-hunting or otherwise, at least one +individual of one of the various kinds of American large game. + + +Article IV. + +Under the head of American large game are included the following +animals: Bear, buffalo (bison), mountain sheep, caribou, cougar, +musk-ox, white goat, elk (wapiti), wolf (not coyote), pronghorn +antelope, moose and deer. + + +Article V. + +The term "fair chase" shall not be held to include killing bear, wolf or +cougar in traps, nor "fire-hunting," nor "crusting" moose, elk or deer +in deep snow, nor killing game from a boat while it is swimming in the +water. + + +Article VI. + +This Club shall consist of not more than one hundred regular members, +and of such associate and honorary members as may be elected. + + +Article VII. + +The Committee on Admissions shall consist of the President and Secretary +and the Chairman of the Executive Committee. In voting for regular +members, six blackballs shall exclude. In voting for associate and +honorary members, ten blackballs shall exclude. Candidates for regular +membership who are at the same time associate members shall be voted +upon before any other. + + +Article VIII. + +The Club shall hold one fixed meeting a year, to be held the second +Wednesday in January, and to be called the annual meeting. + + +Article IX. + +This Constitution shall not be changed, save by a four-fifths vote of +the members present. + + + + +Officers of the Boone and Crockett Club 1895 + + +_President._ + + Theodore Roosevelt, New York. + + +_Secretary and Treasurer._ + + George Bird Grinnell, New York. + + +_Executive Committee._ + + W. A. Wadsworth, Geneseo, N. Y. + Archibald Rogers, Hyde Park, N. Y. + Winthrop Chanler, New York. + Owen Wister, Philadelphia, Pa. + Charles Deering, Chicago, Ill. + + +_Editorial Committee._ + + Theodore Roosevelt, New York. + George Bird Grinnell, New York. + + + + +List of Members of the Boone and Crockett Club + + +* Deceased. + + Lieut. Henry T. Allen, Washington, D. C. + Capt. Geo. S. Anderson, Yellowstone Park, Wyo. + F. H. Barber, Southampton, L. I. + D. M. Barringer, Philadelphia, Pa. + Hon. T. Beal, Washington, D. C. + Albert Bierstadt, New York. + W. J. Boardman, Cleveland, Ohio. + Wm. B. Bogert, Chicago, Ill. + Hon. Benj. H. Bristow, New York. + Wm. B. Bristow, New York. + A. E. Brown, Philadelphia, Pa. + Major Campbell Brown, Spring Hill, Tenn. + Col. John Mason Brown,* Louisville, Ky. + W. A. Buchanan, Chicago, Ill. + H. D. Burnham, Chicago, Ill. + Edw. North Buxton, London, Eng. + H. A. Carey,* Newport, R. I. + Royal Carroll, New York. + Judge John Dean Caton,* Ottawa, Ill. + J. A. Chanler, New York. + W. A. Chanler, New York. + Winthrop Chanler, New York. + Frank C. Crocker, Portland, Me. + A. P. Gordon-Cumming, Washington. D. C. + Chas. P. Curtiss, Boston, Mass. + Paul J. Dashiell, Annapolis, Md. + E. W. Davis, Providence, R. I. + Chas. Deering, Chicago, Ill. + H. C. de Rham, New York. + W. B. Devereux, Glenwood Springs, Colo. + Col. Richard Irving Dodge, Washington, D. C. + Dr. Wm. K. Draper, New York. + J. Coleman Drayton, New York. + Capt. Frank Edwards, Washington, D. C. + Dr. D. G. Elliott, Chicago, Ill. + Maxwell Evarts, New York. + Robert Munro Ferguson, New York. + J. G. Follansbee, San Francisco, Cal. + Frank Furness, Philadelphia, Pa. + W. R. Furness, Jr., Jekyll Island, Brunswick, Ga. + Jas. T. Gardiner, Albany, N. Y. + John Sterett Gittings, Baltimore, Md. + George H. Gould, Santa Barbara, Cal. + De Forest Grant, New York. + Madison Grant, New York. + Gen. A. W. Greely, Washington, D. C. + Geo. Bird Grinnell, New York. + Wm. Milne Grinnell, New York. + Arnold Hague, Washington, D. C. + Hon. Wade Hampton, Columbia, S. C. + Howard Melville Hanna, Cleveland, Ohio. + Major Moses Harris, Washington, D. C. + Maj. Gen. W. H. Jackson, Nashville, Tenn. + Dr. Walter B. James, New York. + Col. Jas. H. Jones, New York. + Clarence King, New York. + C. Grant La Farge, New York. + Alex. Lambert, New York. + Dundas Lippincott,* Philadelphia, Pa. + Hon. Henry Cabot Lodge, Washington, D. C. + Francis C. Lowndes, New York. + Frank Lyman, Brooklyn, N. Y. + Geo. H. Lyman, Boston, Mass. + Chas. B. Macdonald, Chicago, Ill. + Prof. John Bache MacMasters, Philadelphia, Pa. + Henry May, Washington, D. C. + Col. H. C. McDowell, Lexington, Ky. + Dr. C. Hart Merriam, Washington, D. C. + Dr. J. C. Merrill, Washington, D. C. + Dr. A. Rutherfurd Morris, New York. + J. Chester Morris, Jr., Chestnut Hill, Pa. + H. N. Munn, New York. + Lyman Nichols, Boston, Mass. + Jas. S. Norton, Chicago, Ill. + Francis Parkman,* Boston, Mass. + Thos. Paton, New York. + Hon. Boies Penrose, Philadelphia, Pa. + C. B. Penrose, Philadelphia, Pa. + R. A. F. Penrose, Philadelphia, Pa. + W. Hallett Phillips, Washington, D. C. + Col. W. T. Pickett, Meeteetse, Wyo. + H. C. Pierce, St. Louis, Mo. + John J. Pierrepont, Brooklyn, N. Y. + Capt. John Pitcher, Washington, D. C. + A. P. Proctor, New York. + Hon. Redfield Proctor, Washington, D. C. + Prof. Ralph Pumpelly, Newport, R. I. + Percy Pyne, Jr., New York. + Hon. Thos. B. Reed, Portland, Me. + Douglas Robinson, Jr., New York. + Hon. W. Woodville Rockhill, Washington, D. C. + Archibald Rogers, Hyde Park, N. Y. + E. P. Rogers,* Hyde Park, N. Y. + Elliott Roosevelt,* Abingdon, Va. + John Ellis Roosevelt, New York. + J. West Roosevelt, New York. + Hon. Theo. Roosevelt, New York. + Elihu Root, New York. + Bronson Rumsey, Buffalo, N. Y. + Lawrence Rumsey, Buffalo, N. Y. + Dean Sage, Albany, N. Y. + Alden Sampson, Boston, Mass. + Hon. Carl Schurz, New York. + Philip Schuyler, Irvington, N. Y. + M. G. Seckendorf, Washington, D. C. + Dr. J. L. Seward, Orange, N. J. + Gen. Phil. Sheridan,* Washington, D. C. + Gen. W. T. Sherman,* New York. + Chas. F. Sprague, Boston, Mass. + Henry L. Stimson, New York. + Hon. Bellamy Storer, Washington, D. C. + Rutherfurd Stuyvesant, New York. + Frank Thompson, Philadelphia, Pa. + B. C. Tilghman, Philadelphia, Pa. + T. S. Van Dyke, San Diego, Cal. + Hon. G. G. Vest, Washington, D. C. + W. A. Wadsworth, Geneseo, N. Y. + Samuel D. Warren, Boston, Mass. + Jas. Sibley Watson, Rochester, N. Y. + Maj. Gen. W. D. Whipple, Norristown, Pa. + Chas. E. Whitehead, New York. + Caspar W. Whitney, New York. + E. P. Wilbur, Jr., South Bethlehem, Pa. + Col. Roger D. Williams, Lexington, Ky. + R. D. Winthrop, New York. + Owen Wister, Philadelphia, Pa. + J. Walter Wood, Jr., New York. + + + + +Transcriber's Note + + +Illustrations have been moved near the relevant section of the text. + +I have used "=" in the text to denote use of an ornamental font. + +[=a] (used in the word, "G[=a]t") represents an "a" with an macron +above it. + +Inconsistencies have been retained in hyphenation and grammar, except +where indicated in the list below. I have left "Colomiaghi" and +"Colombiagi" as-is although they may refer to the same location. + +Here is a list of the minor typographical corrections made: + + - "Zloeem" changed to "Zlooem" on Page 8 + - Period added before "577" on Page 24 + - "First" changed to "first" on Page 71 + - "necesssary" changed to "necessary" on Page 188 + - Removed period after "hillside" on Page 273 + - "ZLOEEM" changed to "ZLOOEM" in the caption for the illustration + following Page 318 + - Period changed to a comma after "However" on Page 336 + - "cotemporaneously" changed to "contemporaneously" on Page 370 + - Quotation mark added after "tributaries." on Page 384 + - Comma added after "Penrose" on Page 446 + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Hunting in Many Lands, by Various + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HUNTING IN MANY LANDS *** + +***** This file should be named 37122.txt or 37122.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/7/1/2/37122/ + +Produced by David Edwards, Linda Hamilton and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +https://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. |
