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diff --git a/37007-0.txt b/37007-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..0d3b24a --- /dev/null +++ b/37007-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,982 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Appropriate Clothes for the High School Girl, by +Virginia M. Alexander + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Appropriate Clothes for the High School Girl + +Author: Virginia M. Alexander + +Release Date: August 8, 2011 [EBook #37007] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE *** + + + + +Produced by Roger Frank and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was +produced from images made available by the HathiTrust +Digital Library.) + + + + + + College Bulletin + + COLLEGE OF INDUSTRIAL ARTS + THE STATE COLLEGE FOR WOMEN + DENTON, TEXAS + + APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE + HIGH SCHOOL GIRL + + BY + VIRGINIA M. ALEXANDER + DIRECTOR + DEPARTMENT OF FINE AND + APPLIED ART + + + + +APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE HIGH SCHOOL GIRL + + +Some one asked recently, “Why all this agitation on the subject of high +school girls’ dress?” Interest in this subject has certainly increased +during the last several years and the high school girl herself is +directly responsible for this interest. + +It has been said that no great evil exists but contains the seeds of its +own cure. + +The costumes worn to school by the high school girls of our country have +been gradually going from bad to worse with the years. Mothers and +teachers have striven to do what they could to correct matters but not +until the girls themselves realized that this great weakness existed, +and they resolved to seek a cure, were real results noticeable. + +The representative high school girls of our country are making a stand +for good taste and democracy in the clothes they wear to school. + +This little bulletin is published with the hope that its suggestions may +be of value to those students who truly desire to raise the standards of +dress among the girls of their school. + + + + +EXTENSION SERVICE + +ADVISORY FACULTY COMMITTEE ON EXTENSION SERVICE + +F. M. Bralley, _President of the College_. + +Virginia M. Alexander, _Director_, Department of Fine and Applied Art. + +Lena Bumpas, _Supervisor_, Teacher-Training Vocational Home Economics. + +Margaret Gleason, _Director_, Department of Household Arts. + +Mamie W. Walker, _Assistant Professor_, Department of English. + +A STAFF OF COMPETENT LECTURERS AND EXTENSION WORKERS FROM THE REGULAR +FACULTY + +Requests for Extension Service should be addressed to + + Lillian Humphries, + _Secretary_, Department of Extension, + College of Industrial Arts, + Denton, Texas. + + + + +NUMBER 74—FEBRUARY 1, 1920 + +Issued monthly by the College of Industrial Arts, Denton, Texas. + +Entered December 17, 1917, Denton, Texas, as second-class matter, under +Act of Congress, August 24, 1912. + + + + +APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE HIGH SCHOOL GIRL + +Many a girl feels, when she first enters high school, that she is a +child no longer. She has suddenly become a woman, and she must +demonstrate this fact to the world immediately by her clothes. + +Gingham dresses, middies, and low-heel shoes are scorned as belonging to +the days that are gone. Hair once lovely for its natural beauty and +simplicity takes on fearful and wonderful lines. French heels only are +to be considered and a georgette blouse with elaborate camisole or a +silk dress is an absolute necessity. With these acquisitions our young +lady is ready for her new undertaking. + +Could she possibly make a greater mistake? The school room is not a +style show, nor a social function, but it is a busy workshop where +material is to be assembled from which to build a life. + +In a truly good high school, of all places, a student must do or die, +and there is no time here to be wasted on thoughts of frills and +furbelows. School room walls and blackboards do not make consistent +backgrounds for party clothes. + +In the past the high school girl who was considered well-dressed by her +associates was the one who was elaborately dressed. Now, since the girls +of our country are interested in all the big world issues of the day and +have taken efficiency as their watchword the girl who is a leader is the +girl who can _do_, not the girl who can _dress_. + +One of the surest tests of good judgment and refinement in a girl is her +selection of clothes. + +The overdressed girl does not belong to the wealthiest and most cultured +families as a rule. She is often striving to attain a social goal not +yet realized and the school room and the street offer her only +opportunities to show her fine feathers. + + +Suggestions for the School Dress + +If a girl should not wear fanciful clothes to school just what, then, +should she wear? In a general way I will answer that question. + +A high school girl should wear dresses made of good, substantial +material, appropriate for its wearing quality and interesting for its +color and texture. + +These dresses should be made on lines becoming to the individual girl +who is to wear the dress, and at the same time designed so that they +will stand the wear and tear to which they will be subjected. + +Dangling tassels, sashes, and fluffy ruffles divert the attention of +both the wearer and the observer and by their very inappropriateness +make the owner conspicuous. Above all, the school dress, which is a work +dress, should allow the wearer free use of her limbs and muscles and +should promote her general good health. + +A school girl in a dress built on the lines of a Peter Thompson or +Hofflin suit with proper accessories in the way of shoes, stockings, and +coiffure has much more style than her little sister in georgette or +velvet. This type of suit is becoming to almost any girl as the collar, +tie, and belt may be varied to suit each individual, and the design has +become almost as staple as flour and sugar in the pantry. As a result, +these dresses, made of good material, may be worn for several years +without going out of style. + +Ready-made suits of this type are quite expensive but patterns are +easily secured and any one who sews may make a successful garment if a +little care is exercised. + +Gingham, linen, and percale dresses built on simple lines so that they +may be laundered without becoming stretched and misshapen, are always +satisfactory and pleasing. + +In cold weather serge and tricatine make splendid but expensive +substitutes for the washable materials. + +[Illustration: APPROPRIATE SCHOOL DRESSES] + + +The Dress with a Washable Underblouse + +The linen or serge jumper dress, made with a washable underblouse, is a +most satisfactory garment for the school dress. It is not only +utilitarian but it is also comfortable and attractive on account of its +many possible variations. It is becoming to almost all types of girls +from the very young girl, often found in the first year of high school, +to the dignified senior. + +The dress proper, built on simple lines, will stand hard wear and the +fact that the underblouse may be laundered or changed will give +freshness and variety to the costume. + +The very young girl who has not learned to care successfully for her +wristbands will find this feature most valuable. In warm climates or +overheated school rooms the light weight of the underblouse will prove +very comfortable. + +This dress made of wool may be worn quite late in the spring and a silk +blouse will be most useful for the winter months. Made of gingham or +linen the dress will be a valuable asset in the summer wardrobe, +particularly in the South. + +Georgette crêpe is not an appropriate material for this undergarment or +for any other school garment. Its perishable nature and its transparency +make it prohibited for the school room. A very transparent outer garment +demands a most carefully selected under garment and more often than not +this care is not wisely exercised by the wearer. + +A white shirt waist and dark skirt is a very utilitarian combination, +but from an art standpoint it is not considered good design. For a +costume to possess art quality it must have unity; the wearer and her +clothes should create an impression of “oneness.” + +The sudden change at the waist line from a light waist to a dark skirt +cuts the figure into two parts, destroying this much-desired quality of +unity. + +[Illustration: JUMPER DRESSES FOR THE VERY YOUNG HIGH SCHOOL GIRL] + + +The Proper Use of Line About the Face + +The truly well-dressed girl and the one who displays good judgment is +not the girl who slavishly adopts the new styles and fads of the day +regardless of whether they are becoming to her individually or not. This +applies also to the way she dresses her hair. + +There is no part of a toilet that influences the effect of the whole +more than the hair. The most becoming gown fails in its function if the +hair is tousled or dressed unbecomingly. Many girls fail to realize how +they may overcome some of Nature’s faults and shortcomings and how they +may counteract the effect of bad features and proportions by the correct +use of line when dressing the hair. + +If “ear muffs” become stylish, the little round-faced girl who knows +nothing of art or design as related to herself must bulge her hair over +her ears whether it makes a full moon of her face or not. Girls should +dress in style but styles should be modified to suit each individual. + +The hair is a frame for the face. The delicate blonde and the strenuous +athletic brunette may no more wear the same coiffure than they may +safely wear the same colors. A miniature and an oil painting would +certainly not be framed alike. + +The slender girl with a narrow face and thin neck should be most careful +with the use of line around her face. Hair combed in on the cheeks and +high and back from the forehead will make more evident her slenderness. +A hard neck line or chains and ties repeating the point of her chin will +make it appear more angular. Soft flowing lines in the hair, worn low on +the forehead and back from the cheeks, should be adopted. + +The round-faced girl should conscientiously avoid coiffures which +broaden the proportions of her face, also neck lines and beads that +repeat the curve of her chin. + +[Four small illustrations: + 1. Lines of Hair and Neck Increase Point of Face + 2. Flowing Lines for Narrow Face + 3. Face Made Broader by Hair and Neck Line + 4. Successful Coiffure for Broad Face] + + +Suggestions for the Stout Figure + +A girl may not only improve the appearance of her face and head by the +proper use of line but she may do wonders with her figure, as well, if +she knows how to properly design her dresses. A dress wonderfully +becoming to a slender sylphlike girl may become a tragedy on her plump +classmate. Every girl should understand her physical make-up as +thoroughly as she does her disposition, with its strong points and its +weaknesses. She should know the kind of line she may wear successfully +in her dresses, and the colors that are most becoming to her and the +types of materials most suitable for her. + +The stout girl should carefully avoid a design in a dress that is too +cut-up or complicated. Tunics, unless long and scant, are unfortunate +usually and the interest created by trimming about the waist line or +elaborate belts should never be indulged in by the stout girl. + +Length-producing lines should always be planned and light or colored +collars should always be designed so that interest will not be created +out towards the sides of the figure, creating width, but down the center +front instead. + +Contrasting shoes and stockings not only cut from the height of the +figure but help to accent the feet and ankles of the wearer. The girl +who wears white shoes with her dark dress states, by so doing, that she +considers her feet well worth public consideration. + +Contrasting materials for sleeves or elaborate cuffs or pockets will add +width to any figure. + +The designs in the accompanying illustration are most suitable for the +older school girl when made up of wool or linen materials. + +I may safely recommend this type of line in design for the girl of +superfluous weight. + +[Illustration: GOOD LINES FOR STOUT FIGURES] + + +Plaids and Figured Materials + +Our stores in the early spring and summer show such fascinating plaid +and figured materials that I feel their use should be considered. Almost +everyone has fallen a victim to a wonderfully colored plaid on display, +to discover later that buying a plaid is a much simpler matter than +making it into a dress. Plaids are fatal for stout people. Area is the +impression always created by them and unless the pattern is very small +and the colors very soft and indefinite, they should be reserved for the +use of children and young girls. There is no colored costume that will +make a woman more conspicuous than one made of a large black-and-white +plaid material. + +In selecting a pattern for a girl’s plaid dress care should be used to +secure one with as few seams as possible. Every seam is a danger zone. +Only persons with great poise and power of concentration, if they notice +their surroundings at all, will be able to remain unaffected by a +conspicuous seam when the plaids “don’t hit.” Some plaids are designed +so that it is very difficult to match the pattern in the seams of the +skirt or a stretched selvedge will add to the difficulty. A gored skirt +pattern making bias seams necessary should never be used for plaid +material. Arm holes and shoulder seams should be carefully planned. A +kimona sleeve simplifies the arm-hole problem but will not prove so +satisfactory in a wash dress. Plain material, either white or colored, +makes a happy combination with plaids or figured material. + +The accompanying designs are particularly becoming to slender girls. The +wide soft belts and collars and the contrasting materials in the sleeves +will seemingly add weight to slender young figures. In planning tucks +and band trimming for a skirt the result will be much more pleasing if +variety is used in the width of the bands and the spaces between the +bands. + +[Illustration: PLAID AND FIGURED MATERIAL FOR SLENDER FIGURES] + + +Appropriate Clothes for the Street + +If the school room is not an appropriate place for elaborate or fanciful +clothes, surely the street is less so. The truly refined woman will +never wear those things on the street that will make her conspicuous. +Here all classes of people meet and mingle, supposedly on business bent, +and the girl who appears in this public place in party clothes shows +either very poor judgment or that she is striving to attract public +attention in the cheapest possible way. + +The most stylish girls seen in the city streets are those gowned in +simple well-made dresses or tailored suits. Hats, gloves, and shoes +should be as carefully considered as the dress itself and all should +harmonize. + +A simple dark silk dress is almost an essential for street wear in +spring and summer, to replace the heavier suit or serge dress. Taffeta +is an excellent material for this dress and makes a much cooler and more +youthful dress than satin. A taffeta dress needs little trimming, if cut +on interesting lines. Buttons, tucks, and plaited frills of the same +material may be used most effectively. Little bits of hand embroidery or +attractive light collar and cuff sets add much charm to this type of +dress. Bright colors should not appear upon the street. A “loud” color +attracts attention as successfully as a loud noise. Any dark neutral +color becoming to the wearer is well for the street dress. Wool mixtures +and tweeds are particularly good for suits built on box or belted lines. +Sport clothes will give the young girl a wonderful opportunity for the +use of brilliant color. Dresses worn at home and for afternoon and +evening functions permit the use of delicate colors, more elaborate +trimming, and more perishable materials. + +Remember that a hat should serve a double function. It should act as a +covering for the head, and its lines and color should enhance the +attractiveness of the wearer. + +[Illustration: SIMPLE DESIGNS FOR TAFFETA STREET DRESSES] + + +The Graduation Dress + +One of the most important events in the life of every girl is her +graduation, and we shall here consider the dress worn by her when she +has fulfilled all the requirements and that long-anticipated day +arrives. This occasion is not one for splendor and show, and the cue for +the girl graduate is modesty and simplicity. She is not supposed to be a +radiant queen bedecked for a festive occasion, but a charming young girl +equipped and ready to begin life as a young woman. + +The simple and beautiful graduation dress of the past has assumed more +elaborate proportions during recent years until it has reached the point +where the students themselves realize that a halt must be called. +Georgettes, chiffons, and expensive nets have supplanted cotton weaves +and elaborate creations of lace and satin are not infrequent. The cost +of the dress itself is increased by such expensive accessories as long +white kid gloves, expensive slippers and stockings. + +What is the girl whose parents possess only moderate means to do under +these conditions? Perhaps she is graduating with honors. Is she to be +embarrassed by having to play a Cinderella rôle by the side of her +gorgeously attired classmates or shall she strain the family bank +account and spend money for this ornate apparel that should be spent for +the education or maintenance of other members of her family? + +Surely this is a time when the American girl may show her real spirit of +democracy. Instead of selecting a handsome dress, which she often +excuses by saying she wishes to use it afterwards for an evening dress, +she will choose a really more charming one made of less expensive +material, which will give her an opportunity to show her originality, +and make her personal charms more appreciated. + +[Illustration: (No. B 820) ORGANDY GRADUATION DRESS (No. B 822)] + +Patterns for these dresses may be secured at the College of Industrial Arts. + +In many high schools the unfairness of an expensive graduation dress has +been so much appreciated by the students that a price limit has been set +for the graduation outfit, and the girl who violates this understanding +is considered a real offender. The girls who have initiated this have +been, in many cases, those girls who could best afford the expensive +garments and by such acts they have demonstrated that they are to make +the splendid American women of the future, who will lead in those +movements that bring about the greatest good to the greatest number. + +I feel that organdy leads all other materials as desirable for the +graduation dress. It is a trifle more expensive than some other possible +materials but its sheerness and crispness give character to the dress, +making little trimming necessary. A dress of this material may be worn +for quite a while, as a little pressing always revives its freshness. +There are some qualities of flaxon that rival organdy as a desirable +material, and a dress of this may be laundered with perfect safety. + +If lace is used on the graduation dress, do not sacrifice quality for +quantity. A small amount of good lace skillfully used will make a much +handsomer garment than one festooned with rows of a cheap quality. A +self-trimmed organdy dress is very distinctive. Dainty little frills and +pin tucks may be used in many interesting ways, and they may be planned +so as to be becoming to almost any figure. + +Daintiness should be the characteristic quality of the graduation dress. +It is always disappointing to see elaborate jewelry worn with these +charming frocks. In many cases the most valued possessions of the family +have been collected for the occasion and this borrowed finery always +makes a discordant note in the harmony of the young wearer’s costume. +Under no consideration substitute imitation jewelry for the genuine +article. + +[Illustration: (No. B 824) ORGANDY GRADUATION DRESS (No. B 833)] + +Patterns for these dresses may be secured at the College of Industrial Arts. + + +How to Secure Patterns of These Dresses + +The College of Industrial Arts, in its efforts to be of service to the +girls and women of Texas, has made it possible for those desiring +patterns of the graduation dresses illustrated in this bulletin to +secure them through the Department of Extension of the College. + +The original designs of these dresses were made by highly trained +artists at the College, whom we feel appreciate the particular needs of +Texas girls and women. The patterns were cut from these original designs +by the Vogue Pattern Company of New York, and are sold at thirty cents +each, their exact cost to the College. An illustration, material +requirement, and approximate cost are given with each pattern, and they +are cut in sizes 14, 16, and 18. When ordering patterns state the number +of the pattern and the size desired. + +The quaint little design B 820 will appeal to the young girl who likes a +touch of originality in her clothes. The becoming fichu and full skirt +of this design seem to belong to the Colonial days with powdered hair +and patches. This design, created of organdy, should cost from $5.00 to +$8.00 according to the material selected. No. B 822 will prove more +expensive on account of the lace trimming, the approximate cost being +from $9.00 to $12.00. If interesting materials are chosen, this loose +peplum and snug ribbon girdle will make quite a distinctive costume, +becoming to stout figures. + +The long-waisted design B 824 is decidedly original and its dainty +frills and ribbons appeal to young girls. A dress may be made by this +pattern of good materials for $8.00. + +Design B 826 shows a clever interpretation of the narrow skirt so +popular today. The tiny tucks and frills make a dainty and inexpensive +trimming, and the costume should cost from $4.00 to $6.00. + +No. B 828 demonstrates that vertical ruffles may be used successfully. +This dress is beautiful when sheer material is used and the ruffles are +picoted and plaited. It should cost about $6.00. + +The slender girl who is not too thin through the bust is charming in +design B 833. The organdy sash and flounced peplum are designed +particularly for her. From $6.00 to $8.00 should buy the material for +this dress. + +[Illustration: (No. B 828) ORGANDY GRADUATION DRESS (No. B 826)] + +Patterns for these dresses may be secured at the College of Industrial Arts. + + +Lingerie for the Graduation Dress + +The garment worn directly under the graduation dress has much to do with +the effect of the dress itself. This garment should not be picked up at +random but the fullness of its skirt and the design around the neck +should be planned to suit the particular dress pattern selected. + +Underwear is to the dress what the foundation is to a house, and it +should be built just as skillfully. It is impossible to secure a dainty +graceful effect in a dress when it is worn with a clumsy petticoat. +Styles change in underwear just as they do in dresses and the silhouette +of the outer garment must decide what the lines of the under one shall +be. For the present styles soft yielding materials are absolutely +necessary for underwear and few flounces should be used about the bottom +of the skirt if the clinging effect around the ankles and knees is +desired in the dress. + +Elaborate lace trimmings are neither in good taste nor stylish, and +handwork constitutes the decoration on many of the most attractive of +these garments. Colored lingerie and bright-colored ribbons should be +worn only when the dress is not transparent. Bright pink and blue +ribbons in a camisole or chemise will always look a bit garish when +viewed through a thin blouse. + +Color has a magnetic attraction for the eye and wherever placed +immediately attracts attention to that spot. I am sure refined girls do +not wish to invite public interest in their lingerie through the use of +bright colors in their ribbons. The most delicate tints are permissible, +but should be used only in small quantities. White only should be used +with the graduation dress. + +Since several petticoats are apt to prove clumsy, great care must be +exerted in selecting the material for this undergarment, to avoid too +much transparency when worn under the very sheer organdy dress. + +[Illustration: LINGERIE FOR THE GRADUATION DRESS] + + +Corsets and Posture + +The envelope chemise and knickerbockers are very comfortable +undergarments and are quite popular with most young girls of today. They +may be made most attractive when soft dainty materials are used and the +needlework is carefully executed. These garments should be kept quite +simple. If lace is used it should be in limited quantities and of a kind +that may be laundered often. Little bits of dainty feather stitching and +hand embroidery will add individual charm to these undergarments. + +Style depends not only upon the proper selection of clothes but very +largely upon the way these clothes are put on and worn. Many girls +wearing beautiful clothes are decidedly “not stylish.” Their clothes +look as though they had fallen upon their owners. This is caused by the +fact that the wearer does not carry herself well, or has not good poise. +Nothing is so vitally necessary for good health and good looks as good +posture. The slouchy, humped-over girl is unattractive enough when +young, but when she develops into a misshapen woman with superfluous +flesh about the abdomen and shoulders the most skillful artist will be +unable to disguise her deformities. The girl with the débutante slouch +or the one who “sits in her corsets” is rarely graceful. The uncorseted +figure is the popular one today but if corsets must be worn they should +be most carefully selected. Fortunately the long, unyielding coats of +mail of several years ago are now rarely seen on girls, and soft, +flexible girdles leaving the figure with its natural lines and grace, +have appeared as substitutes. A well-shapen brassiere is often necessary +with these low-busted girdles. + +A stylish girl has good poise. This means that she stands well, walks +well, carries her head high, her shoulders back, and looks the world in +the face. The clothes worn by this girl will take the correct swing. + +[Illustration: ENVELOPE AND KNICKERBOCKER CHEMISE] + + +Shoes and Feet + +[Illustration: "Shoes and Feet" showing an image of "Good unspoiled +American feet," and "A bunion is in the bone."] + +All organizations and publications keenly interested in the welfare of +young women are making a strenuous effort to produce better American +feet, and this is to be done directly through the shoes worn by our +girls. The Y. W. C. A. during the war discovered that lack of endurance +among girls could be traced back directly to misshapen feet, flattened +arches, weak backs and abdominal muscles. In almost every case these had +been caused by wearing high-heel shoes. + +The human body is built and strung so that a person may walk and stand +with natural grace and ease. When the equilibrium of this delicate +mechanism is disturbed by inserting a spindle heel directly under that +point responsible for most of the human weight, it is not surprising +that physical ails result that must be carried through life. + +A French or spindle heel is absolutely inconsistent for any occasion +when walking or standing is to be done and is certainly not artistic +when worn with a tailored dress or suit. Vanity, gratified by a foot +that seemingly is a bit smaller, should not compensate for the loss of +good health, good sense, natural grace and efficiency. An elaborate +evening dress may call for a higher heel than the one worn on the +street, but it will not excuse the wabbly spindle heels sold girls by +many ruthless concerns. + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Appropriate Clothes for the High +School Girl, by Virginia M. Alexander + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE *** + +***** This file should be named 37007-0.txt or 37007-0.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/7/0/0/37007/ + +Produced by Roger Frank and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was +produced from images made available by the HathiTrust +Digital Library.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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