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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Appropriate Clothes for the High School Girl, by 
+Virginia M. Alexander
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Appropriate Clothes for the High School Girl
+
+Author: Virginia M. Alexander
+
+Release Date: August 8, 2011 [EBook #37007]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Roger Frank and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was
+produced from images made available by the HathiTrust
+Digital Library.)
+
+
+
+
+
+                            College Bulletin
+
+                       COLLEGE OF INDUSTRIAL ARTS
+                      THE STATE COLLEGE FOR WOMEN
+                             DENTON, TEXAS
+
+                      APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE
+                            HIGH SCHOOL GIRL
+
+                                   BY
+                         VIRGINIA M. ALEXANDER
+                                DIRECTOR
+                         DEPARTMENT OF FINE AND
+                              APPLIED ART
+
+
+
+
+APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE HIGH SCHOOL GIRL
+
+
+Some one asked recently, “Why all this agitation on the subject of high
+school girls’ dress?” Interest in this subject has certainly increased
+during the last several years and the high school girl herself is
+directly responsible for this interest.
+
+It has been said that no great evil exists but contains the seeds of its
+own cure.
+
+The costumes worn to school by the high school girls of our country have
+been gradually going from bad to worse with the years. Mothers and
+teachers have striven to do what they could to correct matters but not
+until the girls themselves realized that this great weakness existed,
+and they resolved to seek a cure, were real results noticeable.
+
+The representative high school girls of our country are making a stand
+for good taste and democracy in the clothes they wear to school.
+
+This little bulletin is published with the hope that its suggestions may
+be of value to those students who truly desire to raise the standards of
+dress among the girls of their school.
+
+
+
+
+EXTENSION SERVICE
+
+ADVISORY FACULTY COMMITTEE ON EXTENSION SERVICE
+
+F. M. Bralley, _President of the College_.
+
+Virginia M. Alexander, _Director_, Department of Fine and Applied Art.
+
+Lena Bumpas, _Supervisor_, Teacher-Training Vocational Home Economics.
+
+Margaret Gleason, _Director_, Department of Household Arts.
+
+Mamie W. Walker, _Assistant Professor_, Department of English.
+
+A STAFF OF COMPETENT LECTURERS AND EXTENSION WORKERS FROM THE REGULAR
+FACULTY
+
+Requests for Extension Service should be addressed to
+
+    Lillian Humphries,
+    _Secretary_, Department of Extension,
+    College of Industrial Arts,
+    Denton, Texas.
+
+
+
+
+NUMBER 74—FEBRUARY 1, 1920
+
+Issued monthly by the College of Industrial Arts, Denton, Texas.
+
+Entered December 17, 1917, Denton, Texas, as second-class matter, under
+Act of Congress, August 24, 1912.
+
+
+
+
+APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE HIGH SCHOOL GIRL
+
+Many a girl feels, when she first enters high school, that she is a
+child no longer. She has suddenly become a woman, and she must
+demonstrate this fact to the world immediately by her clothes.
+
+Gingham dresses, middies, and low-heel shoes are scorned as belonging to
+the days that are gone. Hair once lovely for its natural beauty and
+simplicity takes on fearful and wonderful lines. French heels only are
+to be considered and a georgette blouse with elaborate camisole or a
+silk dress is an absolute necessity. With these acquisitions our young
+lady is ready for her new undertaking.
+
+Could she possibly make a greater mistake? The school room is not a
+style show, nor a social function, but it is a busy workshop where
+material is to be assembled from which to build a life.
+
+In a truly good high school, of all places, a student must do or die,
+and there is no time here to be wasted on thoughts of frills and
+furbelows. School room walls and blackboards do not make consistent
+backgrounds for party clothes.
+
+In the past the high school girl who was considered well-dressed by her
+associates was the one who was elaborately dressed. Now, since the girls
+of our country are interested in all the big world issues of the day and
+have taken efficiency as their watchword the girl who is a leader is the
+girl who can _do_, not the girl who can _dress_.
+
+One of the surest tests of good judgment and refinement in a girl is her
+selection of clothes.
+
+The overdressed girl does not belong to the wealthiest and most cultured
+families as a rule. She is often striving to attain a social goal not
+yet realized and the school room and the street offer her only
+opportunities to show her fine feathers.
+
+
+Suggestions for the School Dress
+
+If a girl should not wear fanciful clothes to school just what, then,
+should she wear? In a general way I will answer that question.
+
+A high school girl should wear dresses made of good, substantial
+material, appropriate for its wearing quality and interesting for its
+color and texture.
+
+These dresses should be made on lines becoming to the individual girl
+who is to wear the dress, and at the same time designed so that they
+will stand the wear and tear to which they will be subjected.
+
+Dangling tassels, sashes, and fluffy ruffles divert the attention of
+both the wearer and the observer and by their very inappropriateness
+make the owner conspicuous. Above all, the school dress, which is a work
+dress, should allow the wearer free use of her limbs and muscles and
+should promote her general good health.
+
+A school girl in a dress built on the lines of a Peter Thompson or
+Hofflin suit with proper accessories in the way of shoes, stockings, and
+coiffure has much more style than her little sister in georgette or
+velvet. This type of suit is becoming to almost any girl as the collar,
+tie, and belt may be varied to suit each individual, and the design has
+become almost as staple as flour and sugar in the pantry. As a result,
+these dresses, made of good material, may be worn for several years
+without going out of style.
+
+Ready-made suits of this type are quite expensive but patterns are
+easily secured and any one who sews may make a successful garment if a
+little care is exercised.
+
+Gingham, linen, and percale dresses built on simple lines so that they
+may be laundered without becoming stretched and misshapen, are always
+satisfactory and pleasing.
+
+In cold weather serge and tricatine make splendid but expensive
+substitutes for the washable materials.
+
+[Illustration: APPROPRIATE SCHOOL DRESSES]
+
+
+The Dress with a Washable Underblouse
+
+The linen or serge jumper dress, made with a washable underblouse, is a
+most satisfactory garment for the school dress. It is not only
+utilitarian but it is also comfortable and attractive on account of its
+many possible variations. It is becoming to almost all types of girls
+from the very young girl, often found in the first year of high school,
+to the dignified senior.
+
+The dress proper, built on simple lines, will stand hard wear and the
+fact that the underblouse may be laundered or changed will give
+freshness and variety to the costume.
+
+The very young girl who has not learned to care successfully for her
+wristbands will find this feature most valuable. In warm climates or
+overheated school rooms the light weight of the underblouse will prove
+very comfortable.
+
+This dress made of wool may be worn quite late in the spring and a silk
+blouse will be most useful for the winter months. Made of gingham or
+linen the dress will be a valuable asset in the summer wardrobe,
+particularly in the South.
+
+Georgette crêpe is not an appropriate material for this undergarment or
+for any other school garment. Its perishable nature and its transparency
+make it prohibited for the school room. A very transparent outer garment
+demands a most carefully selected under garment and more often than not
+this care is not wisely exercised by the wearer.
+
+A white shirt waist and dark skirt is a very utilitarian combination,
+but from an art standpoint it is not considered good design. For a
+costume to possess art quality it must have unity; the wearer and her
+clothes should create an impression of “oneness.”
+
+The sudden change at the waist line from a light waist to a dark skirt
+cuts the figure into two parts, destroying this much-desired quality of
+unity.
+
+[Illustration: JUMPER DRESSES FOR THE VERY YOUNG HIGH SCHOOL GIRL]
+
+
+The Proper Use of Line About the Face
+
+The truly well-dressed girl and the one who displays good judgment is
+not the girl who slavishly adopts the new styles and fads of the day
+regardless of whether they are becoming to her individually or not. This
+applies also to the way she dresses her hair.
+
+There is no part of a toilet that influences the effect of the whole
+more than the hair. The most becoming gown fails in its function if the
+hair is tousled or dressed unbecomingly. Many girls fail to realize how
+they may overcome some of Nature’s faults and shortcomings and how they
+may counteract the effect of bad features and proportions by the correct
+use of line when dressing the hair.
+
+If “ear muffs” become stylish, the little round-faced girl who knows
+nothing of art or design as related to herself must bulge her hair over
+her ears whether it makes a full moon of her face or not. Girls should
+dress in style but styles should be modified to suit each individual.
+
+The hair is a frame for the face. The delicate blonde and the strenuous
+athletic brunette may no more wear the same coiffure than they may
+safely wear the same colors. A miniature and an oil painting would
+certainly not be framed alike.
+
+The slender girl with a narrow face and thin neck should be most careful
+with the use of line around her face. Hair combed in on the cheeks and
+high and back from the forehead will make more evident her slenderness.
+A hard neck line or chains and ties repeating the point of her chin will
+make it appear more angular. Soft flowing lines in the hair, worn low on
+the forehead and back from the cheeks, should be adopted.
+
+The round-faced girl should conscientiously avoid coiffures which
+broaden the proportions of her face, also neck lines and beads that
+repeat the curve of her chin.
+
+[Four small illustrations:
+  1. Lines of Hair and Neck Increase Point of Face
+  2. Flowing Lines for Narrow Face
+  3. Face Made Broader by Hair and Neck Line
+  4. Successful Coiffure for Broad Face]
+
+
+Suggestions for the Stout Figure
+
+A girl may not only improve the appearance of her face and head by the
+proper use of line but she may do wonders with her figure, as well, if
+she knows how to properly design her dresses. A dress wonderfully
+becoming to a slender sylphlike girl may become a tragedy on her plump
+classmate. Every girl should understand her physical make-up as
+thoroughly as she does her disposition, with its strong points and its
+weaknesses. She should know the kind of line she may wear successfully
+in her dresses, and the colors that are most becoming to her and the
+types of materials most suitable for her.
+
+The stout girl should carefully avoid a design in a dress that is too
+cut-up or complicated. Tunics, unless long and scant, are unfortunate
+usually and the interest created by trimming about the waist line or
+elaborate belts should never be indulged in by the stout girl.
+
+Length-producing lines should always be planned and light or colored
+collars should always be designed so that interest will not be created
+out towards the sides of the figure, creating width, but down the center
+front instead.
+
+Contrasting shoes and stockings not only cut from the height of the
+figure but help to accent the feet and ankles of the wearer. The girl
+who wears white shoes with her dark dress states, by so doing, that she
+considers her feet well worth public consideration.
+
+Contrasting materials for sleeves or elaborate cuffs or pockets will add
+width to any figure.
+
+The designs in the accompanying illustration are most suitable for the
+older school girl when made up of wool or linen materials.
+
+I may safely recommend this type of line in design for the girl of
+superfluous weight.
+
+[Illustration: GOOD LINES FOR STOUT FIGURES]
+
+
+Plaids and Figured Materials
+
+Our stores in the early spring and summer show such fascinating plaid
+and figured materials that I feel their use should be considered. Almost
+everyone has fallen a victim to a wonderfully colored plaid on display,
+to discover later that buying a plaid is a much simpler matter than
+making it into a dress. Plaids are fatal for stout people. Area is the
+impression always created by them and unless the pattern is very small
+and the colors very soft and indefinite, they should be reserved for the
+use of children and young girls. There is no colored costume that will
+make a woman more conspicuous than one made of a large black-and-white
+plaid material.
+
+In selecting a pattern for a girl’s plaid dress care should be used to
+secure one with as few seams as possible. Every seam is a danger zone.
+Only persons with great poise and power of concentration, if they notice
+their surroundings at all, will be able to remain unaffected by a
+conspicuous seam when the plaids “don’t hit.” Some plaids are designed
+so that it is very difficult to match the pattern in the seams of the
+skirt or a stretched selvedge will add to the difficulty. A gored skirt
+pattern making bias seams necessary should never be used for plaid
+material. Arm holes and shoulder seams should be carefully planned. A
+kimona sleeve simplifies the arm-hole problem but will not prove so
+satisfactory in a wash dress. Plain material, either white or colored,
+makes a happy combination with plaids or figured material.
+
+The accompanying designs are particularly becoming to slender girls. The
+wide soft belts and collars and the contrasting materials in the sleeves
+will seemingly add weight to slender young figures. In planning tucks
+and band trimming for a skirt the result will be much more pleasing if
+variety is used in the width of the bands and the spaces between the
+bands.
+
+[Illustration: PLAID AND FIGURED MATERIAL FOR SLENDER FIGURES]
+
+
+Appropriate Clothes for the Street
+
+If the school room is not an appropriate place for elaborate or fanciful
+clothes, surely the street is less so. The truly refined woman will
+never wear those things on the street that will make her conspicuous.
+Here all classes of people meet and mingle, supposedly on business bent,
+and the girl who appears in this public place in party clothes shows
+either very poor judgment or that she is striving to attract public
+attention in the cheapest possible way.
+
+The most stylish girls seen in the city streets are those gowned in
+simple well-made dresses or tailored suits. Hats, gloves, and shoes
+should be as carefully considered as the dress itself and all should
+harmonize.
+
+A simple dark silk dress is almost an essential for street wear in
+spring and summer, to replace the heavier suit or serge dress. Taffeta
+is an excellent material for this dress and makes a much cooler and more
+youthful dress than satin. A taffeta dress needs little trimming, if cut
+on interesting lines. Buttons, tucks, and plaited frills of the same
+material may be used most effectively. Little bits of hand embroidery or
+attractive light collar and cuff sets add much charm to this type of
+dress. Bright colors should not appear upon the street. A “loud” color
+attracts attention as successfully as a loud noise. Any dark neutral
+color becoming to the wearer is well for the street dress. Wool mixtures
+and tweeds are particularly good for suits built on box or belted lines.
+Sport clothes will give the young girl a wonderful opportunity for the
+use of brilliant color. Dresses worn at home and for afternoon and
+evening functions permit the use of delicate colors, more elaborate
+trimming, and more perishable materials.
+
+Remember that a hat should serve a double function. It should act as a
+covering for the head, and its lines and color should enhance the
+attractiveness of the wearer.
+
+[Illustration: SIMPLE DESIGNS FOR TAFFETA STREET DRESSES]
+
+
+The Graduation Dress
+
+One of the most important events in the life of every girl is her
+graduation, and we shall here consider the dress worn by her when she
+has fulfilled all the requirements and that long-anticipated day
+arrives. This occasion is not one for splendor and show, and the cue for
+the girl graduate is modesty and simplicity. She is not supposed to be a
+radiant queen bedecked for a festive occasion, but a charming young girl
+equipped and ready to begin life as a young woman.
+
+The simple and beautiful graduation dress of the past has assumed more
+elaborate proportions during recent years until it has reached the point
+where the students themselves realize that a halt must be called.
+Georgettes, chiffons, and expensive nets have supplanted cotton weaves
+and elaborate creations of lace and satin are not infrequent. The cost
+of the dress itself is increased by such expensive accessories as long
+white kid gloves, expensive slippers and stockings.
+
+What is the girl whose parents possess only moderate means to do under
+these conditions? Perhaps she is graduating with honors. Is she to be
+embarrassed by having to play a Cinderella rôle by the side of her
+gorgeously attired classmates or shall she strain the family bank
+account and spend money for this ornate apparel that should be spent for
+the education or maintenance of other members of her family?
+
+Surely this is a time when the American girl may show her real spirit of
+democracy. Instead of selecting a handsome dress, which she often
+excuses by saying she wishes to use it afterwards for an evening dress,
+she will choose a really more charming one made of less expensive
+material, which will give her an opportunity to show her originality,
+and make her personal charms more appreciated.
+
+[Illustration: (No. B 820) ORGANDY GRADUATION DRESS (No. B 822)]
+
+Patterns for these dresses may be secured at the College of Industrial Arts.
+
+In many high schools the unfairness of an expensive graduation dress has
+been so much appreciated by the students that a price limit has been set
+for the graduation outfit, and the girl who violates this understanding
+is considered a real offender. The girls who have initiated this have
+been, in many cases, those girls who could best afford the expensive
+garments and by such acts they have demonstrated that they are to make
+the splendid American women of the future, who will lead in those
+movements that bring about the greatest good to the greatest number.
+
+I feel that organdy leads all other materials as desirable for the
+graduation dress. It is a trifle more expensive than some other possible
+materials but its sheerness and crispness give character to the dress,
+making little trimming necessary. A dress of this material may be worn
+for quite a while, as a little pressing always revives its freshness.
+There are some qualities of flaxon that rival organdy as a desirable
+material, and a dress of this may be laundered with perfect safety.
+
+If lace is used on the graduation dress, do not sacrifice quality for
+quantity. A small amount of good lace skillfully used will make a much
+handsomer garment than one festooned with rows of a cheap quality. A
+self-trimmed organdy dress is very distinctive. Dainty little frills and
+pin tucks may be used in many interesting ways, and they may be planned
+so as to be becoming to almost any figure.
+
+Daintiness should be the characteristic quality of the graduation dress.
+It is always disappointing to see elaborate jewelry worn with these
+charming frocks. In many cases the most valued possessions of the family
+have been collected for the occasion and this borrowed finery always
+makes a discordant note in the harmony of the young wearer’s costume.
+Under no consideration substitute imitation jewelry for the genuine
+article.
+
+[Illustration: (No. B 824) ORGANDY GRADUATION DRESS (No. B 833)]
+
+Patterns for these dresses may be secured at the College of Industrial Arts.
+
+
+How to Secure Patterns of These Dresses
+
+The College of Industrial Arts, in its efforts to be of service to the
+girls and women of Texas, has made it possible for those desiring
+patterns of the graduation dresses illustrated in this bulletin to
+secure them through the Department of Extension of the College.
+
+The original designs of these dresses were made by highly trained
+artists at the College, whom we feel appreciate the particular needs of
+Texas girls and women. The patterns were cut from these original designs
+by the Vogue Pattern Company of New York, and are sold at thirty cents
+each, their exact cost to the College. An illustration, material
+requirement, and approximate cost are given with each pattern, and they
+are cut in sizes 14, 16, and 18. When ordering patterns state the number
+of the pattern and the size desired.
+
+The quaint little design B 820 will appeal to the young girl who likes a
+touch of originality in her clothes. The becoming fichu and full skirt
+of this design seem to belong to the Colonial days with powdered hair
+and patches. This design, created of organdy, should cost from $5.00 to
+$8.00 according to the material selected. No. B 822 will prove more
+expensive on account of the lace trimming, the approximate cost being
+from $9.00 to $12.00. If interesting materials are chosen, this loose
+peplum and snug ribbon girdle will make quite a distinctive costume,
+becoming to stout figures.
+
+The long-waisted design B 824 is decidedly original and its dainty
+frills and ribbons appeal to young girls. A dress may be made by this
+pattern of good materials for $8.00.
+
+Design B 826 shows a clever interpretation of the narrow skirt so
+popular today. The tiny tucks and frills make a dainty and inexpensive
+trimming, and the costume should cost from $4.00 to $6.00.
+
+No. B 828 demonstrates that vertical ruffles may be used successfully.
+This dress is beautiful when sheer material is used and the ruffles are
+picoted and plaited. It should cost about $6.00.
+
+The slender girl who is not too thin through the bust is charming in
+design B 833. The organdy sash and flounced peplum are designed
+particularly for her. From $6.00 to $8.00 should buy the material for
+this dress.
+
+[Illustration: (No. B 828) ORGANDY GRADUATION DRESS (No. B 826)]
+
+Patterns for these dresses may be secured at the College of Industrial Arts.
+
+
+Lingerie for the Graduation Dress
+
+The garment worn directly under the graduation dress has much to do with
+the effect of the dress itself. This garment should not be picked up at
+random but the fullness of its skirt and the design around the neck
+should be planned to suit the particular dress pattern selected.
+
+Underwear is to the dress what the foundation is to a house, and it
+should be built just as skillfully. It is impossible to secure a dainty
+graceful effect in a dress when it is worn with a clumsy petticoat.
+Styles change in underwear just as they do in dresses and the silhouette
+of the outer garment must decide what the lines of the under one shall
+be. For the present styles soft yielding materials are absolutely
+necessary for underwear and few flounces should be used about the bottom
+of the skirt if the clinging effect around the ankles and knees is
+desired in the dress.
+
+Elaborate lace trimmings are neither in good taste nor stylish, and
+handwork constitutes the decoration on many of the most attractive of
+these garments. Colored lingerie and bright-colored ribbons should be
+worn only when the dress is not transparent. Bright pink and blue
+ribbons in a camisole or chemise will always look a bit garish when
+viewed through a thin blouse.
+
+Color has a magnetic attraction for the eye and wherever placed
+immediately attracts attention to that spot. I am sure refined girls do
+not wish to invite public interest in their lingerie through the use of
+bright colors in their ribbons. The most delicate tints are permissible,
+but should be used only in small quantities. White only should be used
+with the graduation dress.
+
+Since several petticoats are apt to prove clumsy, great care must be
+exerted in selecting the material for this undergarment, to avoid too
+much transparency when worn under the very sheer organdy dress.
+
+[Illustration: LINGERIE FOR THE GRADUATION DRESS]
+
+
+Corsets and Posture
+
+The envelope chemise and knickerbockers are very comfortable
+undergarments and are quite popular with most young girls of today. They
+may be made most attractive when soft dainty materials are used and the
+needlework is carefully executed. These garments should be kept quite
+simple. If lace is used it should be in limited quantities and of a kind
+that may be laundered often. Little bits of dainty feather stitching and
+hand embroidery will add individual charm to these undergarments.
+
+Style depends not only upon the proper selection of clothes but very
+largely upon the way these clothes are put on and worn. Many girls
+wearing beautiful clothes are decidedly “not stylish.” Their clothes
+look as though they had fallen upon their owners. This is caused by the
+fact that the wearer does not carry herself well, or has not good poise.
+Nothing is so vitally necessary for good health and good looks as good
+posture. The slouchy, humped-over girl is unattractive enough when
+young, but when she develops into a misshapen woman with superfluous
+flesh about the abdomen and shoulders the most skillful artist will be
+unable to disguise her deformities. The girl with the débutante slouch
+or the one who “sits in her corsets” is rarely graceful. The uncorseted
+figure is the popular one today but if corsets must be worn they should
+be most carefully selected. Fortunately the long, unyielding coats of
+mail of several years ago are now rarely seen on girls, and soft,
+flexible girdles leaving the figure with its natural lines and grace,
+have appeared as substitutes. A well-shapen brassiere is often necessary
+with these low-busted girdles.
+
+A stylish girl has good poise. This means that she stands well, walks
+well, carries her head high, her shoulders back, and looks the world in
+the face. The clothes worn by this girl will take the correct swing.
+
+[Illustration: ENVELOPE AND KNICKERBOCKER CHEMISE]
+
+
+Shoes and Feet
+
+[Illustration: "Shoes and Feet" showing an image of "Good unspoiled
+American feet," and "A bunion is in the bone."]
+
+All organizations and publications keenly interested in the welfare of
+young women are making a strenuous effort to produce better American
+feet, and this is to be done directly through the shoes worn by our
+girls. The Y. W. C. A. during the war discovered that lack of endurance
+among girls could be traced back directly to misshapen feet, flattened
+arches, weak backs and abdominal muscles. In almost every case these had
+been caused by wearing high-heel shoes.
+
+The human body is built and strung so that a person may walk and stand
+with natural grace and ease. When the equilibrium of this delicate
+mechanism is disturbed by inserting a spindle heel directly under that
+point responsible for most of the human weight, it is not surprising
+that physical ails result that must be carried through life.
+
+A French or spindle heel is absolutely inconsistent for any occasion
+when walking or standing is to be done and is certainly not artistic
+when worn with a tailored dress or suit. Vanity, gratified by a foot
+that seemingly is a bit smaller, should not compensate for the loss of
+good health, good sense, natural grace and efficiency. An elaborate
+evening dress may call for a higher heel than the one worn on the
+street, but it will not excuse the wabbly spindle heels sold girls by
+many ruthless concerns.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Appropriate Clothes for the High
+School Girl, by Virginia M. Alexander
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE ***
+
+***** This file should be named 37007-0.txt or 37007-0.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
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diff --git a/37007-0.zip b/37007-0.zip
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Appropriate Clothes for the High School Girl, by 
+Virginia M. Alexander
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Appropriate Clothes for the High School Girl
+
+Author: Virginia M. Alexander
+
+Release Date: August 8, 2011 [EBook #37007]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Roger Frank and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was
+produced from images made available by the HathiTrust
+Digital Library.)
+
+
+
+
+
+                            College Bulletin
+
+                       COLLEGE OF INDUSTRIAL ARTS
+                      THE STATE COLLEGE FOR WOMEN
+                             DENTON, TEXAS
+
+                      APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE
+                            HIGH SCHOOL GIRL
+
+                                   BY
+                         VIRGINIA M. ALEXANDER
+                                DIRECTOR
+                         DEPARTMENT OF FINE AND
+                              APPLIED ART
+
+
+
+
+APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE HIGH SCHOOL GIRL
+
+
+Some one asked recently, “Why all this agitation on the subject of high
+school girls’ dress?” Interest in this subject has certainly increased
+during the last several years and the high school girl herself is
+directly responsible for this interest.
+
+It has been said that no great evil exists but contains the seeds of its
+own cure.
+
+The costumes worn to school by the high school girls of our country have
+been gradually going from bad to worse with the years. Mothers and
+teachers have striven to do what they could to correct matters but not
+until the girls themselves realized that this great weakness existed,
+and they resolved to seek a cure, were real results noticeable.
+
+The representative high school girls of our country are making a stand
+for good taste and democracy in the clothes they wear to school.
+
+This little bulletin is published with the hope that its suggestions may
+be of value to those students who truly desire to raise the standards of
+dress among the girls of their school.
+
+
+
+
+EXTENSION SERVICE
+
+ADVISORY FACULTY COMMITTEE ON EXTENSION SERVICE
+
+F. M. Bralley, _President of the College_.
+
+Virginia M. Alexander, _Director_, Department of Fine and Applied Art.
+
+Lena Bumpas, _Supervisor_, Teacher-Training Vocational Home Economics.
+
+Margaret Gleason, _Director_, Department of Household Arts.
+
+Mamie W. Walker, _Assistant Professor_, Department of English.
+
+A STAFF OF COMPETENT LECTURERS AND EXTENSION WORKERS FROM THE REGULAR
+FACULTY
+
+Requests for Extension Service should be addressed to
+
+    Lillian Humphries,
+    _Secretary_, Department of Extension,
+    College of Industrial Arts,
+    Denton, Texas.
+
+
+
+
+NUMBER 74—FEBRUARY 1, 1920
+
+Issued monthly by the College of Industrial Arts, Denton, Texas.
+
+Entered December 17, 1917, Denton, Texas, as second-class matter, under
+Act of Congress, August 24, 1912.
+
+
+
+
+APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE HIGH SCHOOL GIRL
+
+Many a girl feels, when she first enters high school, that she is a
+child no longer. She has suddenly become a woman, and she must
+demonstrate this fact to the world immediately by her clothes.
+
+Gingham dresses, middies, and low-heel shoes are scorned as belonging to
+the days that are gone. Hair once lovely for its natural beauty and
+simplicity takes on fearful and wonderful lines. French heels only are
+to be considered and a georgette blouse with elaborate camisole or a
+silk dress is an absolute necessity. With these acquisitions our young
+lady is ready for her new undertaking.
+
+Could she possibly make a greater mistake? The school room is not a
+style show, nor a social function, but it is a busy workshop where
+material is to be assembled from which to build a life.
+
+In a truly good high school, of all places, a student must do or die,
+and there is no time here to be wasted on thoughts of frills and
+furbelows. School room walls and blackboards do not make consistent
+backgrounds for party clothes.
+
+In the past the high school girl who was considered well-dressed by her
+associates was the one who was elaborately dressed. Now, since the girls
+of our country are interested in all the big world issues of the day and
+have taken efficiency as their watchword the girl who is a leader is the
+girl who can _do_, not the girl who can _dress_.
+
+One of the surest tests of good judgment and refinement in a girl is her
+selection of clothes.
+
+The overdressed girl does not belong to the wealthiest and most cultured
+families as a rule. She is often striving to attain a social goal not
+yet realized and the school room and the street offer her only
+opportunities to show her fine feathers.
+
+
+Suggestions for the School Dress
+
+If a girl should not wear fanciful clothes to school just what, then,
+should she wear? In a general way I will answer that question.
+
+A high school girl should wear dresses made of good, substantial
+material, appropriate for its wearing quality and interesting for its
+color and texture.
+
+These dresses should be made on lines becoming to the individual girl
+who is to wear the dress, and at the same time designed so that they
+will stand the wear and tear to which they will be subjected.
+
+Dangling tassels, sashes, and fluffy ruffles divert the attention of
+both the wearer and the observer and by their very inappropriateness
+make the owner conspicuous. Above all, the school dress, which is a work
+dress, should allow the wearer free use of her limbs and muscles and
+should promote her general good health.
+
+A school girl in a dress built on the lines of a Peter Thompson or
+Hofflin suit with proper accessories in the way of shoes, stockings, and
+coiffure has much more style than her little sister in georgette or
+velvet. This type of suit is becoming to almost any girl as the collar,
+tie, and belt may be varied to suit each individual, and the design has
+become almost as staple as flour and sugar in the pantry. As a result,
+these dresses, made of good material, may be worn for several years
+without going out of style.
+
+Ready-made suits of this type are quite expensive but patterns are
+easily secured and any one who sews may make a successful garment if a
+little care is exercised.
+
+Gingham, linen, and percale dresses built on simple lines so that they
+may be laundered without becoming stretched and misshapen, are always
+satisfactory and pleasing.
+
+In cold weather serge and tricatine make splendid but expensive
+substitutes for the washable materials.
+
+[Illustration: APPROPRIATE SCHOOL DRESSES]
+
+
+The Dress with a Washable Underblouse
+
+The linen or serge jumper dress, made with a washable underblouse, is a
+most satisfactory garment for the school dress. It is not only
+utilitarian but it is also comfortable and attractive on account of its
+many possible variations. It is becoming to almost all types of girls
+from the very young girl, often found in the first year of high school,
+to the dignified senior.
+
+The dress proper, built on simple lines, will stand hard wear and the
+fact that the underblouse may be laundered or changed will give
+freshness and variety to the costume.
+
+The very young girl who has not learned to care successfully for her
+wristbands will find this feature most valuable. In warm climates or
+overheated school rooms the light weight of the underblouse will prove
+very comfortable.
+
+This dress made of wool may be worn quite late in the spring and a silk
+blouse will be most useful for the winter months. Made of gingham or
+linen the dress will be a valuable asset in the summer wardrobe,
+particularly in the South.
+
+Georgette crêpe is not an appropriate material for this undergarment or
+for any other school garment. Its perishable nature and its transparency
+make it prohibited for the school room. A very transparent outer garment
+demands a most carefully selected under garment and more often than not
+this care is not wisely exercised by the wearer.
+
+A white shirt waist and dark skirt is a very utilitarian combination,
+but from an art standpoint it is not considered good design. For a
+costume to possess art quality it must have unity; the wearer and her
+clothes should create an impression of “oneness.”
+
+The sudden change at the waist line from a light waist to a dark skirt
+cuts the figure into two parts, destroying this much-desired quality of
+unity.
+
+[Illustration: JUMPER DRESSES FOR THE VERY YOUNG HIGH SCHOOL GIRL]
+
+
+The Proper Use of Line About the Face
+
+The truly well-dressed girl and the one who displays good judgment is
+not the girl who slavishly adopts the new styles and fads of the day
+regardless of whether they are becoming to her individually or not. This
+applies also to the way she dresses her hair.
+
+There is no part of a toilet that influences the effect of the whole
+more than the hair. The most becoming gown fails in its function if the
+hair is tousled or dressed unbecomingly. Many girls fail to realize how
+they may overcome some of Nature’s faults and shortcomings and how they
+may counteract the effect of bad features and proportions by the correct
+use of line when dressing the hair.
+
+If “ear muffs” become stylish, the little round-faced girl who knows
+nothing of art or design as related to herself must bulge her hair over
+her ears whether it makes a full moon of her face or not. Girls should
+dress in style but styles should be modified to suit each individual.
+
+The hair is a frame for the face. The delicate blonde and the strenuous
+athletic brunette may no more wear the same coiffure than they may
+safely wear the same colors. A miniature and an oil painting would
+certainly not be framed alike.
+
+The slender girl with a narrow face and thin neck should be most careful
+with the use of line around her face. Hair combed in on the cheeks and
+high and back from the forehead will make more evident her slenderness.
+A hard neck line or chains and ties repeating the point of her chin will
+make it appear more angular. Soft flowing lines in the hair, worn low on
+the forehead and back from the cheeks, should be adopted.
+
+The round-faced girl should conscientiously avoid coiffures which
+broaden the proportions of her face, also neck lines and beads that
+repeat the curve of her chin.
+
+[Four small illustrations:
+  1. Lines of Hair and Neck Increase Point of Face
+  2. Flowing Lines for Narrow Face
+  3. Face Made Broader by Hair and Neck Line
+  4. Successful Coiffure for Broad Face]
+
+
+Suggestions for the Stout Figure
+
+A girl may not only improve the appearance of her face and head by the
+proper use of line but she may do wonders with her figure, as well, if
+she knows how to properly design her dresses. A dress wonderfully
+becoming to a slender sylphlike girl may become a tragedy on her plump
+classmate. Every girl should understand her physical make-up as
+thoroughly as she does her disposition, with its strong points and its
+weaknesses. She should know the kind of line she may wear successfully
+in her dresses, and the colors that are most becoming to her and the
+types of materials most suitable for her.
+
+The stout girl should carefully avoid a design in a dress that is too
+cut-up or complicated. Tunics, unless long and scant, are unfortunate
+usually and the interest created by trimming about the waist line or
+elaborate belts should never be indulged in by the stout girl.
+
+Length-producing lines should always be planned and light or colored
+collars should always be designed so that interest will not be created
+out towards the sides of the figure, creating width, but down the center
+front instead.
+
+Contrasting shoes and stockings not only cut from the height of the
+figure but help to accent the feet and ankles of the wearer. The girl
+who wears white shoes with her dark dress states, by so doing, that she
+considers her feet well worth public consideration.
+
+Contrasting materials for sleeves or elaborate cuffs or pockets will add
+width to any figure.
+
+The designs in the accompanying illustration are most suitable for the
+older school girl when made up of wool or linen materials.
+
+I may safely recommend this type of line in design for the girl of
+superfluous weight.
+
+[Illustration: GOOD LINES FOR STOUT FIGURES]
+
+
+Plaids and Figured Materials
+
+Our stores in the early spring and summer show such fascinating plaid
+and figured materials that I feel their use should be considered. Almost
+everyone has fallen a victim to a wonderfully colored plaid on display,
+to discover later that buying a plaid is a much simpler matter than
+making it into a dress. Plaids are fatal for stout people. Area is the
+impression always created by them and unless the pattern is very small
+and the colors very soft and indefinite, they should be reserved for the
+use of children and young girls. There is no colored costume that will
+make a woman more conspicuous than one made of a large black-and-white
+plaid material.
+
+In selecting a pattern for a girl’s plaid dress care should be used to
+secure one with as few seams as possible. Every seam is a danger zone.
+Only persons with great poise and power of concentration, if they notice
+their surroundings at all, will be able to remain unaffected by a
+conspicuous seam when the plaids “don’t hit.” Some plaids are designed
+so that it is very difficult to match the pattern in the seams of the
+skirt or a stretched selvedge will add to the difficulty. A gored skirt
+pattern making bias seams necessary should never be used for plaid
+material. Arm holes and shoulder seams should be carefully planned. A
+kimona sleeve simplifies the arm-hole problem but will not prove so
+satisfactory in a wash dress. Plain material, either white or colored,
+makes a happy combination with plaids or figured material.
+
+The accompanying designs are particularly becoming to slender girls. The
+wide soft belts and collars and the contrasting materials in the sleeves
+will seemingly add weight to slender young figures. In planning tucks
+and band trimming for a skirt the result will be much more pleasing if
+variety is used in the width of the bands and the spaces between the
+bands.
+
+[Illustration: PLAID AND FIGURED MATERIAL FOR SLENDER FIGURES]
+
+
+Appropriate Clothes for the Street
+
+If the school room is not an appropriate place for elaborate or fanciful
+clothes, surely the street is less so. The truly refined woman will
+never wear those things on the street that will make her conspicuous.
+Here all classes of people meet and mingle, supposedly on business bent,
+and the girl who appears in this public place in party clothes shows
+either very poor judgment or that she is striving to attract public
+attention in the cheapest possible way.
+
+The most stylish girls seen in the city streets are those gowned in
+simple well-made dresses or tailored suits. Hats, gloves, and shoes
+should be as carefully considered as the dress itself and all should
+harmonize.
+
+A simple dark silk dress is almost an essential for street wear in
+spring and summer, to replace the heavier suit or serge dress. Taffeta
+is an excellent material for this dress and makes a much cooler and more
+youthful dress than satin. A taffeta dress needs little trimming, if cut
+on interesting lines. Buttons, tucks, and plaited frills of the same
+material may be used most effectively. Little bits of hand embroidery or
+attractive light collar and cuff sets add much charm to this type of
+dress. Bright colors should not appear upon the street. A “loud” color
+attracts attention as successfully as a loud noise. Any dark neutral
+color becoming to the wearer is well for the street dress. Wool mixtures
+and tweeds are particularly good for suits built on box or belted lines.
+Sport clothes will give the young girl a wonderful opportunity for the
+use of brilliant color. Dresses worn at home and for afternoon and
+evening functions permit the use of delicate colors, more elaborate
+trimming, and more perishable materials.
+
+Remember that a hat should serve a double function. It should act as a
+covering for the head, and its lines and color should enhance the
+attractiveness of the wearer.
+
+[Illustration: SIMPLE DESIGNS FOR TAFFETA STREET DRESSES]
+
+
+The Graduation Dress
+
+One of the most important events in the life of every girl is her
+graduation, and we shall here consider the dress worn by her when she
+has fulfilled all the requirements and that long-anticipated day
+arrives. This occasion is not one for splendor and show, and the cue for
+the girl graduate is modesty and simplicity. She is not supposed to be a
+radiant queen bedecked for a festive occasion, but a charming young girl
+equipped and ready to begin life as a young woman.
+
+The simple and beautiful graduation dress of the past has assumed more
+elaborate proportions during recent years until it has reached the point
+where the students themselves realize that a halt must be called.
+Georgettes, chiffons, and expensive nets have supplanted cotton weaves
+and elaborate creations of lace and satin are not infrequent. The cost
+of the dress itself is increased by such expensive accessories as long
+white kid gloves, expensive slippers and stockings.
+
+What is the girl whose parents possess only moderate means to do under
+these conditions? Perhaps she is graduating with honors. Is she to be
+embarrassed by having to play a Cinderella rôle by the side of her
+gorgeously attired classmates or shall she strain the family bank
+account and spend money for this ornate apparel that should be spent for
+the education or maintenance of other members of her family?
+
+Surely this is a time when the American girl may show her real spirit of
+democracy. Instead of selecting a handsome dress, which she often
+excuses by saying she wishes to use it afterwards for an evening dress,
+she will choose a really more charming one made of less expensive
+material, which will give her an opportunity to show her originality,
+and make her personal charms more appreciated.
+
+[Illustration: (No. B 820) ORGANDY GRADUATION DRESS (No. B 822)]
+
+Patterns for these dresses may be secured at the College of Industrial Arts.
+
+In many high schools the unfairness of an expensive graduation dress has
+been so much appreciated by the students that a price limit has been set
+for the graduation outfit, and the girl who violates this understanding
+is considered a real offender. The girls who have initiated this have
+been, in many cases, those girls who could best afford the expensive
+garments and by such acts they have demonstrated that they are to make
+the splendid American women of the future, who will lead in those
+movements that bring about the greatest good to the greatest number.
+
+I feel that organdy leads all other materials as desirable for the
+graduation dress. It is a trifle more expensive than some other possible
+materials but its sheerness and crispness give character to the dress,
+making little trimming necessary. A dress of this material may be worn
+for quite a while, as a little pressing always revives its freshness.
+There are some qualities of flaxon that rival organdy as a desirable
+material, and a dress of this may be laundered with perfect safety.
+
+If lace is used on the graduation dress, do not sacrifice quality for
+quantity. A small amount of good lace skillfully used will make a much
+handsomer garment than one festooned with rows of a cheap quality. A
+self-trimmed organdy dress is very distinctive. Dainty little frills and
+pin tucks may be used in many interesting ways, and they may be planned
+so as to be becoming to almost any figure.
+
+Daintiness should be the characteristic quality of the graduation dress.
+It is always disappointing to see elaborate jewelry worn with these
+charming frocks. In many cases the most valued possessions of the family
+have been collected for the occasion and this borrowed finery always
+makes a discordant note in the harmony of the young wearer’s costume.
+Under no consideration substitute imitation jewelry for the genuine
+article.
+
+[Illustration: (No. B 824) ORGANDY GRADUATION DRESS (No. B 833)]
+
+Patterns for these dresses may be secured at the College of Industrial Arts.
+
+
+How to Secure Patterns of These Dresses
+
+The College of Industrial Arts, in its efforts to be of service to the
+girls and women of Texas, has made it possible for those desiring
+patterns of the graduation dresses illustrated in this bulletin to
+secure them through the Department of Extension of the College.
+
+The original designs of these dresses were made by highly trained
+artists at the College, whom we feel appreciate the particular needs of
+Texas girls and women. The patterns were cut from these original designs
+by the Vogue Pattern Company of New York, and are sold at thirty cents
+each, their exact cost to the College. An illustration, material
+requirement, and approximate cost are given with each pattern, and they
+are cut in sizes 14, 16, and 18. When ordering patterns state the number
+of the pattern and the size desired.
+
+The quaint little design B 820 will appeal to the young girl who likes a
+touch of originality in her clothes. The becoming fichu and full skirt
+of this design seem to belong to the Colonial days with powdered hair
+and patches. This design, created of organdy, should cost from $5.00 to
+$8.00 according to the material selected. No. B 822 will prove more
+expensive on account of the lace trimming, the approximate cost being
+from $9.00 to $12.00. If interesting materials are chosen, this loose
+peplum and snug ribbon girdle will make quite a distinctive costume,
+becoming to stout figures.
+
+The long-waisted design B 824 is decidedly original and its dainty
+frills and ribbons appeal to young girls. A dress may be made by this
+pattern of good materials for $8.00.
+
+Design B 826 shows a clever interpretation of the narrow skirt so
+popular today. The tiny tucks and frills make a dainty and inexpensive
+trimming, and the costume should cost from $4.00 to $6.00.
+
+No. B 828 demonstrates that vertical ruffles may be used successfully.
+This dress is beautiful when sheer material is used and the ruffles are
+picoted and plaited. It should cost about $6.00.
+
+The slender girl who is not too thin through the bust is charming in
+design B 833. The organdy sash and flounced peplum are designed
+particularly for her. From $6.00 to $8.00 should buy the material for
+this dress.
+
+[Illustration: (No. B 828) ORGANDY GRADUATION DRESS (No. B 826)]
+
+Patterns for these dresses may be secured at the College of Industrial Arts.
+
+
+Lingerie for the Graduation Dress
+
+The garment worn directly under the graduation dress has much to do with
+the effect of the dress itself. This garment should not be picked up at
+random but the fullness of its skirt and the design around the neck
+should be planned to suit the particular dress pattern selected.
+
+Underwear is to the dress what the foundation is to a house, and it
+should be built just as skillfully. It is impossible to secure a dainty
+graceful effect in a dress when it is worn with a clumsy petticoat.
+Styles change in underwear just as they do in dresses and the silhouette
+of the outer garment must decide what the lines of the under one shall
+be. For the present styles soft yielding materials are absolutely
+necessary for underwear and few flounces should be used about the bottom
+of the skirt if the clinging effect around the ankles and knees is
+desired in the dress.
+
+Elaborate lace trimmings are neither in good taste nor stylish, and
+handwork constitutes the decoration on many of the most attractive of
+these garments. Colored lingerie and bright-colored ribbons should be
+worn only when the dress is not transparent. Bright pink and blue
+ribbons in a camisole or chemise will always look a bit garish when
+viewed through a thin blouse.
+
+Color has a magnetic attraction for the eye and wherever placed
+immediately attracts attention to that spot. I am sure refined girls do
+not wish to invite public interest in their lingerie through the use of
+bright colors in their ribbons. The most delicate tints are permissible,
+but should be used only in small quantities. White only should be used
+with the graduation dress.
+
+Since several petticoats are apt to prove clumsy, great care must be
+exerted in selecting the material for this undergarment, to avoid too
+much transparency when worn under the very sheer organdy dress.
+
+[Illustration: LINGERIE FOR THE GRADUATION DRESS]
+
+
+Corsets and Posture
+
+The envelope chemise and knickerbockers are very comfortable
+undergarments and are quite popular with most young girls of today. They
+may be made most attractive when soft dainty materials are used and the
+needlework is carefully executed. These garments should be kept quite
+simple. If lace is used it should be in limited quantities and of a kind
+that may be laundered often. Little bits of dainty feather stitching and
+hand embroidery will add individual charm to these undergarments.
+
+Style depends not only upon the proper selection of clothes but very
+largely upon the way these clothes are put on and worn. Many girls
+wearing beautiful clothes are decidedly “not stylish.” Their clothes
+look as though they had fallen upon their owners. This is caused by the
+fact that the wearer does not carry herself well, or has not good poise.
+Nothing is so vitally necessary for good health and good looks as good
+posture. The slouchy, humped-over girl is unattractive enough when
+young, but when she develops into a misshapen woman with superfluous
+flesh about the abdomen and shoulders the most skillful artist will be
+unable to disguise her deformities. The girl with the débutante slouch
+or the one who “sits in her corsets” is rarely graceful. The uncorseted
+figure is the popular one today but if corsets must be worn they should
+be most carefully selected. Fortunately the long, unyielding coats of
+mail of several years ago are now rarely seen on girls, and soft,
+flexible girdles leaving the figure with its natural lines and grace,
+have appeared as substitutes. A well-shapen brassiere is often necessary
+with these low-busted girdles.
+
+A stylish girl has good poise. This means that she stands well, walks
+well, carries her head high, her shoulders back, and looks the world in
+the face. The clothes worn by this girl will take the correct swing.
+
+[Illustration: ENVELOPE AND KNICKERBOCKER CHEMISE]
+
+
+Shoes and Feet
+
+[Illustration: "Shoes and Feet" showing an image of "Good unspoiled
+American feet," and "A bunion is in the bone."]
+
+All organizations and publications keenly interested in the welfare of
+young women are making a strenuous effort to produce better American
+feet, and this is to be done directly through the shoes worn by our
+girls. The Y. W. C. A. during the war discovered that lack of endurance
+among girls could be traced back directly to misshapen feet, flattened
+arches, weak backs and abdominal muscles. In almost every case these had
+been caused by wearing high-heel shoes.
+
+The human body is built and strung so that a person may walk and stand
+with natural grace and ease. When the equilibrium of this delicate
+mechanism is disturbed by inserting a spindle heel directly under that
+point responsible for most of the human weight, it is not surprising
+that physical ails result that must be carried through life.
+
+A French or spindle heel is absolutely inconsistent for any occasion
+when walking or standing is to be done and is certainly not artistic
+when worn with a tailored dress or suit. Vanity, gratified by a foot
+that seemingly is a bit smaller, should not compensate for the loss of
+good health, good sense, natural grace and efficiency. An elaborate
+evening dress may call for a higher heel than the one worn on the
+street, but it will not excuse the wabbly spindle heels sold girls by
+many ruthless concerns.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Appropriate Clothes for the High
+School Girl, by Virginia M. Alexander
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE ***
+
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+    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=utf-8" />
+    <meta content="Appropriate Clothes for the High School Girl" name="DC.Title"/>
+    <meta content="Virginia M. Alexander" name="DC.Creator"/>
+    <meta content="en" name="DC.Language"/>
+    <meta content="1920" name="DC.Created"/>
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+    <title>Appropriate Clothes for the High School Girl</title>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Appropriate Clothes for the High School Girl, by 
+Virginia M. Alexander
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
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+
+Title: Appropriate Clothes for the High School Girl
+
+Author: Virginia M. Alexander
+
+Release Date: August 8, 2011 [EBook #37007]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Roger Frank and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was
+produced from images made available by the HathiTrust
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+
+
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+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+<div class='center'>
+<p><span style='font-size:1.6em;font-variant:small-caps;'>College Bulletin</span></p>
+<p>&#160;</p>
+<p><span style='font-size:larger;'>COLLEGE OF INDUSTRIAL ARTS</span></p>
+<p><span style='font-size:smaller;'>THE STATE COLLEGE FOR WOMEN</span></p>
+<p><span style='font-size:larger;'>DENTON, TEXAS</span></p>
+<p>&#160;</p>
+<p><span style='font-size:1.6em;'>APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE</span></p>
+<p><span style='font-size:1.6em;'>HIGH SCHOOL GIRL</span></p>
+<p>&#160;</p>
+<p>BY</p>
+<p><span style='font-size:larger;'>VIRGINIA M. ALEXANDER</span></p>
+<p>DIRECTOR</p>
+<p>DEPARTMENT OF FINE AND</p>
+<p>APPLIED ART</p>
+</div>
+<p>
+&#160;<br />
+&#160;<br />
+&#160;<br />
+</p>
+<h1>APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE HIGH SCHOOL GIRL</h1>
+<p>
+Some one asked recently, “Why all this agitation on the
+subject of high school girls’ dress?” Interest in this subject
+has certainly increased during the last several years
+and the high school girl herself is directly responsible for
+this interest.
+</p>
+<p>
+It has been said that no great evil exists but contains
+the seeds of its own cure.
+</p>
+<p>
+The costumes worn to school by the high school girls
+of our country have been gradually going from bad to
+worse with the years. Mothers and teachers have striven
+to do what they could to correct matters but not until the
+girls themselves realized that this great weakness existed,
+and they resolved to seek a cure, were real results
+noticeable.
+</p>
+<p>
+The representative high school girls of our country are
+making a stand for good taste and democracy in the clothes
+they wear to school.
+</p>
+<p>
+This little bulletin is published with the hope that its
+suggestions may be of value to those students who truly
+desire to raise the standards of dress among the girls of
+their school.
+</p>
+<p>
+&#160;<br />
+&#160;<br />
+&#160;<br />
+</p>
+<p>
+EXTENSION SERVICE
+</p>
+<p>
+ADVISORY FACULTY COMMITTEE ON
+EXTENSION SERVICE
+</p>
+<p>
+F. M. <span class='sc'>Bralley</span>, <em>President of the College</em>.
+</p>
+<p>
+<span class='sc'>Virginia M. Alexander</span>, <em>Director</em>, Department of Fine and Applied Art.
+</p>
+<p>
+<span class='sc'>Lena Bumpas</span>, <em>Supervisor</em>, Teacher-Training Vocational Home Economics.
+</p>
+<p>
+<span class='sc'>Margaret Gleason</span>, <em>Director</em>, Department of Household Arts.
+</p>
+<p>
+<span class='sc'>Mamie W. Walker</span>, <em>Assistant Professor</em>, Department of English.
+</p>
+<p>
+A STAFF OF COMPETENT LECTURERS AND EXTENSION
+WORKERS FROM THE REGULAR FACULTY
+</p>
+<p>
+Requests for Extension Service should be addressed to
+</p>
+<p style='text-align:left; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:4em;;'><span class='sc'>Lillian Humphries</span>,</p>
+<p style='text-align:left; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:4em;;'><em>Secretary</em>, Department of Extension,</p>
+<p style='text-align:left; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:4em;;'>College of Industrial Arts,</p>
+<p style='text-align:left; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0; margin-left:4em;;'>Denton, Texas.</p>
+<p>
+&#160;<br />
+&#160;<br />
+&#160;<br />
+</p>
+<p>
+NUMBER 74—FEBRUARY 1, 1920
+</p>
+<p>
+Issued monthly by the College of Industrial Arts, Denton, Texas.
+</p>
+<p>
+Entered December 17, 1917, Denton, Texas, as second-class
+matter, under Act of Congress, August 24, 1912.
+</p>
+<p>
+&#160;<br />
+&#160;<br />
+&#160;<br />
+</p>
+<p>
+<span style='font-size:larger;font-weight:bold;'>APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE HIGH SCHOOL GIRL</span>
+</p>
+<p>
+Many a girl feels, when she first enters high school,
+that she is a child no longer. She has suddenly become a
+woman, and she must demonstrate this fact to the world immediately
+by her clothes.
+</p>
+<p>
+Gingham dresses, middies, and low-heel shoes are
+scorned as belonging to the days that are gone. Hair once
+lovely for its natural beauty and simplicity takes on fearful
+and wonderful lines. French heels only are to be considered
+and a georgette blouse with elaborate camisole or a silk
+dress is an absolute necessity. With these acquisitions our
+young lady is ready for her new undertaking.
+</p>
+<p>
+Could she possibly make a greater mistake? The school
+room is not a style show, nor a social function, but it is a
+busy workshop where material is to be assembled from
+which to build a life.
+</p>
+<p>
+In a truly good high school, of all places, a student must
+do or die, and there is no time here to be wasted on thoughts
+of frills and furbelows. School room walls and blackboards
+do not make consistent backgrounds for party clothes.
+</p>
+<p>
+In the past the high school girl who was considered
+well-dressed by her associates was the one who was elaborately
+dressed. Now, since the girls of our country are interested
+in all the big world issues of the day and have
+taken efficiency as their watchword the girl who is a leader
+is the girl who can <em>do</em>, not the girl who can <em>dress</em>.
+</p>
+<p>
+One of the surest tests of good judgment and refinement
+in a girl is her selection of clothes.
+</p>
+<p>
+The overdressed girl does not belong to the wealthiest
+and most cultured families as a rule. She is often striving
+to attain a social goal not yet realized and the school room
+and the street offer her only opportunities to show her fine
+feathers.
+</p>
+<p>
+&#160;<br />
+</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_1'></a>1</span></div>
+<p>
+<span style='font-size:larger;font-weight:bold;'>Suggestions for the School Dress</span>
+</p>
+<p>
+If a girl should not wear fanciful clothes to school just
+what, then, should she wear? In a general way I will answer
+that question.
+</p>
+<p>
+A high school girl should wear dresses made of good,
+substantial material, appropriate for its wearing quality
+and interesting for its color and texture.
+</p>
+<p>
+These dresses should be made on lines becoming to the
+individual girl who is to wear the dress, and at the same
+time designed so that they will stand the wear and tear to
+which they will be subjected.
+</p>
+<p>
+Dangling tassels, sashes, and fluffy ruffles divert the
+attention of both the wearer and the observer and by their
+very inappropriateness make the owner conspicuous. Above
+all, the school dress, which is a work dress, should allow the
+wearer free use of her limbs and muscles and should promote
+her general good health.
+</p>
+<p>
+A school girl in a dress built on the lines of a Peter
+Thompson or Hofflin suit with proper accessories in the
+way of shoes, stockings, and coiffure has much more style
+than her little sister in georgette or velvet. This type of
+suit is becoming to almost any girl as the collar, tie, and
+belt may be varied to suit each individual, and the design
+has become almost as staple as flour and sugar in the pantry.
+As a result, these dresses, made of good material, may be
+worn for several years without going out of style.
+</p>
+<p>
+Ready-made suits of this type are quite expensive but
+patterns are easily secured and any one who sews may make
+a successful garment if a little care is exercised.
+</p>
+<p>
+Gingham, linen, and percale dresses built on simple
+lines so that they may be laundered without becoming
+stretched and misshapen, are always satisfactory and pleasing.
+</p>
+<p>
+In cold weather serge and tricatine make splendid but
+expensive substitutes for the washable materials.
+</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_2'></a>2</span></div>
+<div class='figcenter' style='padding-top: 1em; padding-bottom: 1em'>
+<a name='i001' id='i001'></a>
+<img src="images/illus-007.jpg" alt="APPROPRIATE SCHOOL DRESSES" title=""/><br />
+<span class='caption'>APPROPRIATE SCHOOL DRESSES</span>
+</div>
+<p>
+&#160;<br />
+</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_3'></a>3</span></div>
+<p>
+<span style='font-size:larger;font-weight:bold;'>The Dress with a Washable Underblouse</span>
+</p>
+<p>
+The linen or serge jumper dress, made with a washable
+underblouse, is a most satisfactory garment for the
+school dress. It is not only utilitarian but it is also comfortable
+and attractive on account of its many possible
+variations. It is becoming to almost all types of girls from
+the very young girl, often found in the first year of high
+school, to the dignified senior.
+</p>
+<p>
+The dress proper, built on simple lines, will stand hard
+wear and the fact that the underblouse may be laundered
+or changed will give freshness and variety to the costume.
+</p>
+<p>
+The very young girl who has not learned to care successfully
+for her wristbands will find this feature most
+valuable. In warm climates or overheated school rooms the
+light weight of the underblouse will prove very comfortable.
+</p>
+<p>
+This dress made of wool may be worn quite late in the
+spring and a silk blouse will be most useful for the winter
+months. Made of gingham or linen the dress will be a valuable
+asset in the summer wardrobe, particularly in the
+South.
+</p>
+<p>
+Georgette crêpe is not an appropriate material for this
+undergarment or for any other school garment. Its perishable
+nature and its transparency make it prohibited for the
+school room. A very transparent outer garment demands
+a most carefully selected under garment and more often
+than not this care is not wisely exercised by the wearer.
+</p>
+<p>
+A white shirt waist and dark skirt is a very utilitarian
+combination, but from an art standpoint it is not considered
+good design. For a costume to possess art quality it must
+have unity; the wearer and her clothes should create an
+impression of “oneness.”
+</p>
+<p>
+The sudden change at the waist line from a light waist
+to a dark skirt cuts the figure into two parts, destroying
+this much-desired quality of unity.
+</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_4'></a>4</span></div>
+<div class='figcenter' style='padding-top: 1em; padding-bottom: 1em'>
+<a name='i002' id='i002'></a>
+<img src="images/illus-009.jpg" alt="JUMPER DRESSES FOR THE VERY YOUNG HIGH SCHOOL GIRL" title=""/><br />
+<span class='caption'>JUMPER DRESSES FOR THE VERY YOUNG HIGH SCHOOL GIRL</span>
+</div>
+<p>
+&#160;<br />
+</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_5'></a>5</span></div>
+<p>
+<span style='font-size:larger;font-weight:bold;'>The Proper Use of Line About the Face</span>
+</p>
+<p>
+The truly well-dressed girl and the one who displays
+good judgment is not the girl who slavishly adopts the new
+styles and fads of the day regardless of whether they are
+becoming to her individually or not. This applies also to the
+way she dresses her hair.
+</p>
+<p>
+There is no part of a toilet that influences the effect
+of the whole more than the hair. The most becoming gown
+fails in its function if the hair is tousled or dressed unbecomingly.
+Many girls fail to realize how they may overcome
+some of Nature’s faults and shortcomings and how they may
+counteract the effect of bad features and proportions by the
+correct use of line when dressing the hair.
+</p>
+<p>
+If “ear muffs” become stylish, the little round-faced
+girl who knows nothing of art or design as related to herself
+must bulge her hair over her ears whether it makes a
+full moon of her face or not. Girls should dress in style
+but styles should be modified to suit each individual.
+</p>
+<p>
+The hair is a frame for the face. The delicate blonde
+and the strenuous athletic brunette may no more wear the
+same coiffure than they may safely wear the same colors.
+A miniature and an oil painting would certainly not be
+framed alike.
+</p>
+<p>
+The slender girl with a narrow face and thin neck
+should be most careful with the use of line around her face.
+Hair combed in on the cheeks and high and back from the
+forehead will make more evident her slenderness. A hard
+neck line or chains and ties repeating the point of her chin
+will make it appear more angular. Soft flowing lines in the
+hair, worn low on the forehead and back from the cheeks,
+should be adopted.
+</p>
+<p>
+The round-faced girl should conscientiously avoid coiffures
+which broaden the proportions of her face, also neck lines
+and beads that repeat the curve of her chin.
+</p>
+<table summary='hair and neck influence on face shape' style='margin:auto'>
+<tr>
+<td style='padding:20px'>
+<img src='images/illus-011a.jpg' alt='' />
+<p style='font-size:smaller; text-align:center'>Lines of Hair and Neck<br/>Increase Point of Face</p>
+</td>
+<td style='padding:20px'>
+<img src='images/illus-011b.jpg' alt='' />
+<p style='font-size:smaller; text-align:center'>Flowing Lines for<br/>Narrow Face</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td style='padding:20px'>
+<img src='images/illus-011c.jpg' alt='' />
+<p style='font-size:smaller; text-align:center'>Face Made Broader<br/>by Hair and Neck Line</p>
+</td>
+<td style='padding:20px'>
+<img src='images/illus-011d.jpg' alt='' />
+<p style='font-size:smaller; text-align:center'>Successful Coiffure<br/>for Broad Face</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<p>
+&#160;<br />
+</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_10'></a>10</span></div>
+<p>
+<span style='font-size:larger;font-weight:bold;'>Suggestions for the Stout Figure</span>
+</p>
+<p>
+A girl may not only improve the appearance of her
+face and head by the proper use of line but she may do wonders
+with her figure, as well, if she knows how to properly
+design her dresses. A dress wonderfully becoming to a
+slender sylphlike girl may become a tragedy on her plump
+classmate. Every girl should understand her physical make-up
+as thoroughly as she does her disposition, with its strong
+points and its weaknesses. She should know the kind of line
+she may wear successfully in her dresses, and the colors that
+are most becoming to her and the types of materials most
+suitable for her.
+</p>
+<p>
+The stout girl should carefully avoid a design in a dress
+that is too cut-up or complicated. Tunics, unless long and
+scant, are unfortunate usually and the interest created by
+trimming about the waist line or elaborate belts should
+never be indulged in by the stout girl.
+</p>
+<p>
+Length-producing lines should always be planned and
+light or colored collars should always be designed so that interest
+will not be created out towards the sides of the figure,
+creating width, but down the center front instead.
+</p>
+<p>
+Contrasting shoes and stockings not only cut from the
+height of the figure but help to accent the feet and ankles
+of the wearer. The girl who wears white shoes with her
+dark dress states, by so doing, that she considers her feet
+well worth public consideration.
+</p>
+<p>
+Contrasting materials for sleeves or elaborate cuffs or
+pockets will add width to any figure.
+</p>
+<p>
+The designs in the accompanying illustration are most
+suitable for the older school girl when made up of wool or
+linen materials.
+</p>
+<p>
+I may safely recommend this type of line in design for
+the girl of superfluous weight.
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_11'></a>11</span>
+</p>
+<div class='figcenter' style='padding-top: 1em; padding-bottom: 1em'>
+<a name='i003' id='i003'></a>
+<img src="images/illus-013.jpg" alt="GOOD LINES FOR STOUT FIGURES" title=""/><br />
+<span class='caption'>GOOD LINES FOR STOUT FIGURES</span>
+</div>
+<p>
+&#160;<br />
+</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_12'></a>12</span></div>
+<p>
+<span style='font-size:larger;font-weight:bold;'>Plaids and Figured Materials</span>
+</p>
+<p>
+Our stores in the early spring and summer show such
+fascinating plaid and figured materials that I feel their use
+should be considered. Almost everyone has fallen a victim
+to a wonderfully colored plaid on display, to discover later
+that buying a plaid is a much simpler matter than making
+it into a dress. Plaids are fatal for stout people. Area is
+the impression always created by them and unless the pattern
+is very small and the colors very soft and indefinite,
+they should be reserved for the use of children and young
+girls. There is no colored costume that will make a woman
+more conspicuous than one made of a large black-and-white
+plaid material.
+</p>
+<p>
+In selecting a pattern for a girl’s plaid dress care should
+be used to secure one with as few seams as possible. Every
+seam is a danger zone. Only persons with great poise and
+power of concentration, if they notice their surroundings
+at all, will be able to remain unaffected by a conspicuous
+seam when the plaids “don’t hit.” Some plaids are designed
+so that it is very difficult to match the pattern in the seams
+of the skirt or a stretched selvedge will add to the difficulty.
+A gored skirt pattern making bias seams necessary should
+never be used for plaid material. Arm holes and shoulder
+seams should be carefully planned. A kimona sleeve simplifies
+the arm-hole problem but will not prove so satisfactory
+in a wash dress. Plain material, either white or colored,
+makes a happy combination with plaids or figured
+material.
+</p>
+<p>
+The accompanying designs are particularly becoming to
+slender girls. The wide soft belts and collars and the contrasting
+materials in the sleeves will seemingly add weight
+to slender young figures. In planning tucks and band trimming
+for a skirt the result will be much more pleasing if
+variety is used in the width of the bands and the spaces
+between the bands.
+</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_13'></a>13</span></div>
+<div class='figcenter' style='padding-top: 1em; padding-bottom: 1em'>
+<a name='i004' id='i004'></a>
+<img src="images/illus-015.jpg" alt="PLAID AND FIGURED MATERIAL FOR SLENDER FIGURES" title=""/><br />
+<span class='caption'>PLAID AND FIGURED MATERIAL FOR SLENDER FIGURES</span>
+</div>
+<p>
+&#160;<br />
+</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_14'></a>14</span></div>
+<p>
+<span style='font-size:larger;font-weight:bold;'>Appropriate Clothes for the Street</span>
+</p>
+<p>
+If the school room is not an appropriate place for elaborate
+or fanciful clothes, surely the street is less so. The
+truly refined woman will never wear those things on the
+street that will make her conspicuous. Here all classes of
+people meet and mingle, supposedly on business bent, and
+the girl who appears in this public place in party clothes
+shows either very poor judgment or that she is striving to
+attract public attention in the cheapest possible way.
+</p>
+<p>
+The most stylish girls seen in the city streets are those
+gowned in simple well-made dresses or tailored suits. Hats,
+gloves, and shoes should be as carefully considered as the
+dress itself and all should harmonize.
+</p>
+<p>
+A simple dark silk dress is almost an essential for
+street wear in spring and summer, to replace the heavier
+suit or serge dress. Taffeta is an excellent material for this
+dress and makes a much cooler and more youthful dress
+than satin. A taffeta dress needs little trimming, if cut
+on interesting lines. Buttons, tucks, and plaited frills of
+the same material may be used most effectively. Little bits
+of hand embroidery or attractive light collar and cuff sets
+add much charm to this type of dress. Bright colors should
+not appear upon the street. A “loud” color attracts attention
+as successfully as a loud noise. Any dark neutral color
+becoming to the wearer is well for the street dress. Wool
+mixtures and tweeds are particularly good for suits built on
+box or belted lines. Sport clothes will give the young girl
+a wonderful opportunity for the use of brilliant color.
+Dresses worn at home and for afternoon and evening functions
+permit the use of delicate colors, more elaborate trimming,
+and more perishable materials.
+</p>
+<p>
+Remember that a hat should serve a double function.
+It should act as a covering for the head, and its lines and
+color should enhance the attractiveness of the wearer.
+</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_15'></a>15</span></div>
+<div class='figcenter' style='padding-top: 1em; padding-bottom: 1em'>
+<a name='i005' id='i005'></a>
+<img src="images/illus-017.jpg" alt="SIMPLE DESIGNS FOR TAFFETA STREET DRESSES" title=""/><br />
+<span class='caption'>SIMPLE DESIGNS FOR TAFFETA STREET DRESSES</span>
+</div>
+<p>
+&#160;<br />
+</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_16'></a>16</span></div>
+<p>
+<span style='font-size:larger;font-weight:bold;'>The Graduation Dress</span>
+</p>
+<p>
+One of the most important events in the life of every
+girl is her graduation, and we shall here consider the dress
+worn by her when she has fulfilled all the requirements and
+that long-anticipated day arrives. This occasion is not one
+for splendor and show, and the cue for the girl graduate is
+modesty and simplicity. She is not supposed to be a radiant
+queen bedecked for a festive occasion, but a charming young
+girl equipped and ready to begin life as a young woman.
+</p>
+<p>
+The simple and beautiful graduation dress of the past
+has assumed more elaborate proportions during recent years
+until it has reached the point where the students themselves
+realize that a halt must be called. Georgettes, chiffons, and
+expensive nets have supplanted cotton weaves and elaborate
+creations of lace and satin are not infrequent. The cost of
+the dress itself is increased by such expensive accessories
+as long white kid gloves, expensive slippers and stockings.
+</p>
+<p>
+What is the girl whose parents possess only moderate
+means to do under these conditions? Perhaps she is graduating
+with honors. Is she to be embarrassed by having to
+play a Cinderella rôle by the side of her gorgeously attired
+classmates or shall she strain the family bank account
+and spend money for this ornate apparel that should be
+spent for the education or maintenance of other members
+of her family?
+</p>
+<p>
+Surely this is a time when the American girl may show
+her real spirit of democracy. Instead of selecting a handsome
+dress, which she often excuses by saying she wishes
+to use it afterwards for an evening dress, she will choose
+a really more charming one made of less expensive material,
+which will give her an opportunity to show her originality,
+and make her personal charms more appreciated.
+</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_17'></a>17</span></div>
+<div class='figcenter' style='padding-top: 1em; padding-bottom: 1em'>
+<a name='i006' id='i006'></a>
+<img src="images/illus-019.jpg" alt="(No. B 820) ORGANDY GRADUATION DRESS (No. B 822)" title=""/><br />
+<span class='caption'>(No. B 820) ORGANDY GRADUATION DRESS (No. B 822)</span>
+</div>
+<div class='center'>
+<p><span style='font-size:smaller;'>Patterns for these dresses may be secured at the College of Industrial Arts.</span></p>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_18'></a>18</span></div>
+<p>
+In many high schools the unfairness of an expensive
+graduation dress has been so much appreciated by the students
+that a price limit has been set for the graduation
+outfit, and the girl who violates this understanding is considered
+a real offender. The girls who have initiated this
+have been, in many cases, those girls who could best afford
+the expensive garments and by such acts they have demonstrated
+that they are to make the splendid American women
+of the future, who will lead in those movements that bring
+about the greatest good to the greatest number.
+</p>
+<p>
+I feel that organdy leads all other materials as desirable
+for the graduation dress. It is a trifle more expensive than
+some other possible materials but its sheerness and crispness
+give character to the dress, making little trimming
+necessary. A dress of this material may be worn for quite
+a while, as a little pressing always revives its freshness.
+There are some qualities of flaxon that rival organdy as
+a desirable material, and a dress of this may be laundered
+with perfect safety.
+</p>
+<p>
+If lace is used on the graduation dress, do not sacrifice
+quality for quantity. A small amount of good lace skillfully
+used will make a much handsomer garment than one
+festooned with rows of a cheap quality. A self-trimmed
+organdy dress is very distinctive. Dainty little frills and
+pin tucks may be used in many interesting ways, and they
+may be planned so as to be becoming to almost any figure.
+</p>
+<p>
+Daintiness should be the characteristic quality of the
+graduation dress. It is always disappointing to see elaborate
+jewelry worn with these charming frocks. In many
+cases the most valued possessions of the family have been
+collected for the occasion and this borrowed finery always
+makes a discordant note in the harmony of the young
+wearer’s costume. Under no consideration substitute imitation
+jewelry for the genuine article.
+</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_19'></a>19</span></div>
+<div class='figcenter' style='padding-top: 1em; padding-bottom: 1em'>
+<a name='i007' id='i007'></a>
+<img src="images/illus-021.jpg" alt="(No. B 824) ORGANDY GRADUATION DRESS (No. B 833)" title=""/><br />
+<span class='caption'>(No. B 824) ORGANDY GRADUATION DRESS (No. B 833)</span>
+</div>
+<div class='center'>
+<p><span style='font-size:smaller;'>Patterns for these dresses may be secured at the College of Industrial Arts.</span></p>
+</div>
+<p>
+&#160;<br />
+</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_20'></a>20</span></div>
+<p>
+<span style='font-size:larger;font-weight:bold;'>How to Secure Patterns of These Dresses</span>
+</p>
+<p>
+The College of Industrial Arts, in its efforts to be of
+service to the girls and women of Texas, has made it possible
+for those desiring patterns of the graduation dresses
+illustrated in this bulletin to secure them through the Department
+of Extension of the College.
+</p>
+<p>
+The original designs of these dresses were made by
+highly trained artists at the College, whom we feel appreciate
+the particular needs of Texas girls and women. The
+patterns were cut from these original designs by the Vogue
+Pattern Company of New York, and are sold at thirty cents
+each, their exact cost to the College. An illustration, material
+requirement, and approximate cost are given with
+each pattern, and they are cut in sizes 14, 16, and 18. When
+ordering patterns state the number of the pattern and the
+size desired.
+</p>
+<p>
+The quaint little design B 820 will appeal to the young
+girl who likes a touch of originality in her clothes. The becoming
+fichu and full skirt of this design seem to belong
+to the Colonial days with powdered hair and patches. This
+design, created of organdy, should cost from $5.00 to $8.00
+according to the material selected. No. B 822 will prove more
+expensive on account of the lace trimming, the approximate
+cost being from $9.00 to $12.00. If interesting materials
+are chosen, this loose peplum and snug ribbon girdle will
+make quite a distinctive costume, becoming to stout figures.
+</p>
+<p>
+The long-waisted design B 824 is decidedly original and
+its dainty frills and ribbons appeal to young girls. A dress
+may be made by this pattern of good materials for $8.00.
+</p>
+<p>
+Design B 826 shows a clever interpretation of the narrow
+skirt so popular today. The tiny tucks and frills make
+a dainty and inexpensive trimming, and the costume should
+cost from $4.00 to $6.00.
+</p>
+<p>
+No. B 828 demonstrates that vertical ruffles may be
+used successfully. This dress is beautiful when sheer material
+is used and the ruffles are picoted and plaited. It should
+cost about $6.00.
+</p>
+<p>
+The slender girl who is not too thin through the bust
+is charming in design B 833. The organdy sash and flounced
+peplum are designed particularly for her. From $6.00 to
+$8.00 should buy the material for this dress.
+</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_21'></a>21</span></div>
+<div class='figcenter' style='padding-top: 1em; padding-bottom: 1em'>
+<a name='i008' id='i008'></a>
+<img src="images/illus-023.jpg" alt="(No. B 828) ORGANDY GRADUATION DRESS (No. B 826)" title=""/><br />
+<span class='caption'>(No. B 828) ORGANDY GRADUATION DRESS (No. B 826)</span>
+</div>
+<div class='center'>
+<p><span style='font-size:smaller;'>Patterns for these dresses may be secured at the College of Industrial Arts.</span></p>
+</div>
+<p>
+&#160;<br />
+</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_22'></a>22</span></div>
+<p>
+<span style='font-size:larger;font-weight:bold;'>Lingerie for the Graduation Dress</span>
+</p>
+<p>
+The garment worn directly under the graduation dress
+has much to do with the effect of the dress itself. This
+garment should not be picked up at random but the fullness
+of its skirt and the design around the neck should be planned
+to suit the particular dress pattern selected.
+</p>
+<p>
+Underwear is to the dress what the foundation is to a
+house, and it should be built just as skillfully. It is impossible
+to secure a dainty graceful effect in a dress when
+it is worn with a clumsy petticoat. Styles change in underwear
+just as they do in dresses and the silhouette of the
+outer garment must decide what the lines of the under one
+shall be. For the present styles soft yielding materials are
+absolutely necessary for underwear and few flounces should
+be used about the bottom of the skirt if the clinging effect
+around the ankles and knees is desired in the dress.
+</p>
+<p>
+Elaborate lace trimmings are neither in good taste nor
+stylish, and handwork constitutes the decoration on many
+of the most attractive of these garments. Colored lingerie
+and bright-colored ribbons should be worn only when the
+dress is not transparent. Bright pink and blue ribbons in
+a camisole or chemise will always look a bit garish when
+viewed through a thin blouse.
+</p>
+<p>
+Color has a magnetic attraction for the eye and wherever
+placed immediately attracts attention to that spot. I
+am sure refined girls do not wish to invite public interest in
+their lingerie through the use of bright colors in their ribbons.
+The most delicate tints are permissible, but should
+be used only in small quantities. White only should be used
+with the graduation dress.
+</p>
+<p>
+Since several petticoats are apt to prove clumsy, great
+care must be exerted in selecting the material for this undergarment,
+to avoid too much transparency when worn under
+the very sheer organdy dress.
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_23'></a>23</span>
+</p>
+<div class='figcenter' style='padding-top: 1em; padding-bottom: 1em'>
+<a name='i009' id='i009'></a>
+<img src="images/illus-025.jpg" alt="LINGERIE FOR THE GRADUATION DRESS" title=""/><br />
+<span class='caption'>LINGERIE FOR THE GRADUATION DRESS</span>
+</div>
+<p>
+&#160;<br />
+</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_24'></a>24</span></div>
+<p>
+<span style='font-size:larger;font-weight:bold;'>Corsets and Posture</span>
+</p>
+<p>
+The envelope chemise and knickerbockers are very comfortable
+undergarments and are quite popular with most
+young girls of today. They may be made most attractive
+when soft dainty materials are used and the needlework is
+carefully executed. These garments should be kept quite
+simple. If lace is used it should be in limited quantities
+and of a kind that may be laundered often. Little bits of
+dainty feather stitching and hand embroidery will add individual
+charm to these undergarments.
+</p>
+<p>
+Style depends not only upon the proper selection of
+clothes but very largely upon the way these clothes are put
+on and worn. Many girls wearing beautiful clothes are
+decidedly “not stylish.” Their clothes look as though they
+had fallen upon their owners. This is caused by the fact
+that the wearer does not carry herself well, or has not good
+poise. Nothing is so vitally necessary for good health and
+good looks as good posture. The slouchy, humped-over girl
+is unattractive enough when young, but when she develops
+into a misshapen woman with superfluous flesh about the
+abdomen and shoulders the most skillful artist will be unable
+to disguise her deformities. The girl with the débutante
+slouch or the one who “sits in her corsets” is rarely
+graceful. The uncorseted figure is the popular one today
+but if corsets must be worn they should be most carefully
+selected. Fortunately the long, unyielding coats of mail of
+several years ago are now rarely seen on girls, and soft,
+flexible girdles leaving the figure with its natural lines and
+grace, have appeared as substitutes. A well-shapen brassiere
+is often necessary with these low-busted girdles.
+</p>
+<p>
+A stylish girl has good poise. This means that she
+stands well, walks well, carries her head high, her shoulders
+back, and looks the world in the face. The clothes worn
+by this girl will take the correct swing.
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_25'></a>25</span>
+</p>
+<div class='figcenter' style='padding-top: 1em; padding-bottom: 1em'>
+<a name='i010' id='i010'></a>
+<img src="images/illus-027.jpg" alt="ENVELOPE AND KNICKERBOCKER CHEMISE" title=""/><br />
+<span class='caption'>ENVELOPE AND KNICKERBOCKER CHEMISE</span>
+</div>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_26'></a>26</span></div>
+<p>
+&#160;<br />
+</p>
+<table summary='Shoes and Feet' style='border:1px solid black; margin:auto'>
+<tr>
+<td>
+<img src='images/illus-028a.jpg' alt=''/>
+<p style='font-size:smaller; text-align:center'>GOOD UNSPOILED<br/>AMERICAN FEET</p>
+</td>
+<td style='padding:10px; border-left:1px solid black; border-right:1px solid black'>
+<p style='font-size:1.4em; text-align:center'>Shoes<br/>and<br/>Feet</p>
+</td>
+<td>
+<img src='images/illus-028b.jpg' alt=''/>
+<p style='font-size:smaller; text-align:center'>A BUNION IS IN<br/>THE BONE</p>
+</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<p>
+All organizations and publications keenly interested in
+the welfare of young women are making a strenuous effort
+to produce better American feet, and this is to be done directly
+through the shoes worn by our girls. The Y. W. C. A.
+during the war discovered that lack of endurance among
+girls could be traced back directly to misshapen feet, flattened
+arches, weak backs and abdominal muscles. In almost
+every case these had been caused by wearing high-heel
+shoes.
+</p>
+<p>
+The human body is built and strung so that a person
+may walk and stand with natural grace and ease. When
+the equilibrium of this delicate mechanism is disturbed by
+inserting a spindle heel directly under that point responsible
+for most of the human weight, it is not surprising
+that physical ails result that must be carried through life.
+</p>
+<p>
+A French or spindle heel is absolutely inconsistent for
+any occasion when walking or standing is to be done and is
+certainly not artistic when worn with a tailored dress or
+suit. Vanity, gratified by a foot that seemingly is a bit
+smaller, should not compensate for the loss of good health,
+good sense, natural grace and efficiency. An elaborate evening
+dress may call for a higher heel than the one worn on
+the street, but it will not excuse the wabbly spindle heels
+sold girls by many ruthless concerns.
+</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Appropriate Clothes for the High
+School Girl, by Virginia M. Alexander
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+</body>
+</html>
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@@ -0,0 +1,982 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Appropriate Clothes for the High School Girl, by
+Virginia M. Alexander
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Appropriate Clothes for the High School Girl
+
+Author: Virginia M. Alexander
+
+Release Date: August 8, 2011 [EBook #37007]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Roger Frank and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This book was
+produced from images made available by the HathiTrust
+Digital Library.)
+
+
+
+
+
+                            College Bulletin
+
+                       COLLEGE OF INDUSTRIAL ARTS
+                      THE STATE COLLEGE FOR WOMEN
+                             DENTON, TEXAS
+
+                      APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE
+                            HIGH SCHOOL GIRL
+
+                                   BY
+                         VIRGINIA M. ALEXANDER
+                                DIRECTOR
+                         DEPARTMENT OF FINE AND
+                              APPLIED ART
+
+
+
+
+APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE HIGH SCHOOL GIRL
+
+
+Some one asked recently, "Why all this agitation on the subject of high
+school girls' dress?" Interest in this subject has certainly increased
+during the last several years and the high school girl herself is
+directly responsible for this interest.
+
+It has been said that no great evil exists but contains the seeds of its
+own cure.
+
+The costumes worn to school by the high school girls of our country have
+been gradually going from bad to worse with the years. Mothers and
+teachers have striven to do what they could to correct matters but not
+until the girls themselves realized that this great weakness existed,
+and they resolved to seek a cure, were real results noticeable.
+
+The representative high school girls of our country are making a stand
+for good taste and democracy in the clothes they wear to school.
+
+This little bulletin is published with the hope that its suggestions may
+be of value to those students who truly desire to raise the standards of
+dress among the girls of their school.
+
+
+
+
+EXTENSION SERVICE
+
+ADVISORY FACULTY COMMITTEE ON EXTENSION SERVICE
+
+F. M. Bralley, _President of the College_.
+
+Virginia M. Alexander, _Director_, Department of Fine and Applied Art.
+
+Lena Bumpas, _Supervisor_, Teacher-Training Vocational Home Economics.
+
+Margaret Gleason, _Director_, Department of Household Arts.
+
+Mamie W. Walker, _Assistant Professor_, Department of English.
+
+A STAFF OF COMPETENT LECTURERS AND EXTENSION WORKERS FROM THE REGULAR
+FACULTY
+
+Requests for Extension Service should be addressed to
+
+    Lillian Humphries,
+    _Secretary_, Department of Extension,
+    College of Industrial Arts,
+    Denton, Texas.
+
+
+
+
+NUMBER 74--FEBRUARY 1, 1920
+
+Issued monthly by the College of Industrial Arts, Denton, Texas.
+
+Entered December 17, 1917, Denton, Texas, as second-class matter, under
+Act of Congress, August 24, 1912.
+
+
+
+
+APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE HIGH SCHOOL GIRL
+
+Many a girl feels, when she first enters high school, that she is a
+child no longer. She has suddenly become a woman, and she must
+demonstrate this fact to the world immediately by her clothes.
+
+Gingham dresses, middies, and low-heel shoes are scorned as belonging to
+the days that are gone. Hair once lovely for its natural beauty and
+simplicity takes on fearful and wonderful lines. French heels only are
+to be considered and a georgette blouse with elaborate camisole or a
+silk dress is an absolute necessity. With these acquisitions our young
+lady is ready for her new undertaking.
+
+Could she possibly make a greater mistake? The school room is not a
+style show, nor a social function, but it is a busy workshop where
+material is to be assembled from which to build a life.
+
+In a truly good high school, of all places, a student must do or die,
+and there is no time here to be wasted on thoughts of frills and
+furbelows. School room walls and blackboards do not make consistent
+backgrounds for party clothes.
+
+In the past the high school girl who was considered well-dressed by her
+associates was the one who was elaborately dressed. Now, since the girls
+of our country are interested in all the big world issues of the day and
+have taken efficiency as their watchword the girl who is a leader is the
+girl who can _do_, not the girl who can _dress_.
+
+One of the surest tests of good judgment and refinement in a girl is her
+selection of clothes.
+
+The overdressed girl does not belong to the wealthiest and most cultured
+families as a rule. She is often striving to attain a social goal not
+yet realized and the school room and the street offer her only
+opportunities to show her fine feathers.
+
+
+Suggestions for the School Dress
+
+If a girl should not wear fanciful clothes to school just what, then,
+should she wear? In a general way I will answer that question.
+
+A high school girl should wear dresses made of good, substantial
+material, appropriate for its wearing quality and interesting for its
+color and texture.
+
+These dresses should be made on lines becoming to the individual girl
+who is to wear the dress, and at the same time designed so that they
+will stand the wear and tear to which they will be subjected.
+
+Dangling tassels, sashes, and fluffy ruffles divert the attention of
+both the wearer and the observer and by their very inappropriateness
+make the owner conspicuous. Above all, the school dress, which is a work
+dress, should allow the wearer free use of her limbs and muscles and
+should promote her general good health.
+
+A school girl in a dress built on the lines of a Peter Thompson or
+Hofflin suit with proper accessories in the way of shoes, stockings, and
+coiffure has much more style than her little sister in georgette or
+velvet. This type of suit is becoming to almost any girl as the collar,
+tie, and belt may be varied to suit each individual, and the design has
+become almost as staple as flour and sugar in the pantry. As a result,
+these dresses, made of good material, may be worn for several years
+without going out of style.
+
+Ready-made suits of this type are quite expensive but patterns are
+easily secured and any one who sews may make a successful garment if a
+little care is exercised.
+
+Gingham, linen, and percale dresses built on simple lines so that they
+may be laundered without becoming stretched and misshapen, are always
+satisfactory and pleasing.
+
+In cold weather serge and tricatine make splendid but expensive
+substitutes for the washable materials.
+
+[Illustration: APPROPRIATE SCHOOL DRESSES]
+
+
+The Dress with a Washable Underblouse
+
+The linen or serge jumper dress, made with a washable underblouse, is a
+most satisfactory garment for the school dress. It is not only
+utilitarian but it is also comfortable and attractive on account of its
+many possible variations. It is becoming to almost all types of girls
+from the very young girl, often found in the first year of high school,
+to the dignified senior.
+
+The dress proper, built on simple lines, will stand hard wear and the
+fact that the underblouse may be laundered or changed will give
+freshness and variety to the costume.
+
+The very young girl who has not learned to care successfully for her
+wristbands will find this feature most valuable. In warm climates or
+overheated school rooms the light weight of the underblouse will prove
+very comfortable.
+
+This dress made of wool may be worn quite late in the spring and a silk
+blouse will be most useful for the winter months. Made of gingham or
+linen the dress will be a valuable asset in the summer wardrobe,
+particularly in the South.
+
+Georgette crepe is not an appropriate material for this undergarment or
+for any other school garment. Its perishable nature and its transparency
+make it prohibited for the school room. A very transparent outer garment
+demands a most carefully selected under garment and more often than not
+this care is not wisely exercised by the wearer.
+
+A white shirt waist and dark skirt is a very utilitarian combination,
+but from an art standpoint it is not considered good design. For a
+costume to possess art quality it must have unity; the wearer and her
+clothes should create an impression of "oneness."
+
+The sudden change at the waist line from a light waist to a dark skirt
+cuts the figure into two parts, destroying this much-desired quality of
+unity.
+
+[Illustration: JUMPER DRESSES FOR THE VERY YOUNG HIGH SCHOOL GIRL]
+
+
+The Proper Use of Line About the Face
+
+The truly well-dressed girl and the one who displays good judgment is
+not the girl who slavishly adopts the new styles and fads of the day
+regardless of whether they are becoming to her individually or not. This
+applies also to the way she dresses her hair.
+
+There is no part of a toilet that influences the effect of the whole
+more than the hair. The most becoming gown fails in its function if the
+hair is tousled or dressed unbecomingly. Many girls fail to realize how
+they may overcome some of Nature's faults and shortcomings and how they
+may counteract the effect of bad features and proportions by the correct
+use of line when dressing the hair.
+
+If "ear muffs" become stylish, the little round-faced girl who knows
+nothing of art or design as related to herself must bulge her hair over
+her ears whether it makes a full moon of her face or not. Girls should
+dress in style but styles should be modified to suit each individual.
+
+The hair is a frame for the face. The delicate blonde and the strenuous
+athletic brunette may no more wear the same coiffure than they may
+safely wear the same colors. A miniature and an oil painting would
+certainly not be framed alike.
+
+The slender girl with a narrow face and thin neck should be most careful
+with the use of line around her face. Hair combed in on the cheeks and
+high and back from the forehead will make more evident her slenderness.
+A hard neck line or chains and ties repeating the point of her chin will
+make it appear more angular. Soft flowing lines in the hair, worn low on
+the forehead and back from the cheeks, should be adopted.
+
+The round-faced girl should conscientiously avoid coiffures which
+broaden the proportions of her face, also neck lines and beads that
+repeat the curve of her chin.
+
+[Four small illustrations:
+  1. Lines of Hair and Neck Increase Point of Face
+  2. Flowing Lines for Narrow Face
+  3. Face Made Broader by Hair and Neck Line
+  4. Successful Coiffure for Broad Face]
+
+
+Suggestions for the Stout Figure
+
+A girl may not only improve the appearance of her face and head by the
+proper use of line but she may do wonders with her figure, as well, if
+she knows how to properly design her dresses. A dress wonderfully
+becoming to a slender sylphlike girl may become a tragedy on her plump
+classmate. Every girl should understand her physical make-up as
+thoroughly as she does her disposition, with its strong points and its
+weaknesses. She should know the kind of line she may wear successfully
+in her dresses, and the colors that are most becoming to her and the
+types of materials most suitable for her.
+
+The stout girl should carefully avoid a design in a dress that is too
+cut-up or complicated. Tunics, unless long and scant, are unfortunate
+usually and the interest created by trimming about the waist line or
+elaborate belts should never be indulged in by the stout girl.
+
+Length-producing lines should always be planned and light or colored
+collars should always be designed so that interest will not be created
+out towards the sides of the figure, creating width, but down the center
+front instead.
+
+Contrasting shoes and stockings not only cut from the height of the
+figure but help to accent the feet and ankles of the wearer. The girl
+who wears white shoes with her dark dress states, by so doing, that she
+considers her feet well worth public consideration.
+
+Contrasting materials for sleeves or elaborate cuffs or pockets will add
+width to any figure.
+
+The designs in the accompanying illustration are most suitable for the
+older school girl when made up of wool or linen materials.
+
+I may safely recommend this type of line in design for the girl of
+superfluous weight.
+
+[Illustration: GOOD LINES FOR STOUT FIGURES]
+
+
+Plaids and Figured Materials
+
+Our stores in the early spring and summer show such fascinating plaid
+and figured materials that I feel their use should be considered. Almost
+everyone has fallen a victim to a wonderfully colored plaid on display,
+to discover later that buying a plaid is a much simpler matter than
+making it into a dress. Plaids are fatal for stout people. Area is the
+impression always created by them and unless the pattern is very small
+and the colors very soft and indefinite, they should be reserved for the
+use of children and young girls. There is no colored costume that will
+make a woman more conspicuous than one made of a large black-and-white
+plaid material.
+
+In selecting a pattern for a girl's plaid dress care should be used to
+secure one with as few seams as possible. Every seam is a danger zone.
+Only persons with great poise and power of concentration, if they notice
+their surroundings at all, will be able to remain unaffected by a
+conspicuous seam when the plaids "don't hit." Some plaids are designed
+so that it is very difficult to match the pattern in the seams of the
+skirt or a stretched selvedge will add to the difficulty. A gored skirt
+pattern making bias seams necessary should never be used for plaid
+material. Arm holes and shoulder seams should be carefully planned. A
+kimona sleeve simplifies the arm-hole problem but will not prove so
+satisfactory in a wash dress. Plain material, either white or colored,
+makes a happy combination with plaids or figured material.
+
+The accompanying designs are particularly becoming to slender girls. The
+wide soft belts and collars and the contrasting materials in the sleeves
+will seemingly add weight to slender young figures. In planning tucks
+and band trimming for a skirt the result will be much more pleasing if
+variety is used in the width of the bands and the spaces between the
+bands.
+
+[Illustration: PLAID AND FIGURED MATERIAL FOR SLENDER FIGURES]
+
+
+Appropriate Clothes for the Street
+
+If the school room is not an appropriate place for elaborate or fanciful
+clothes, surely the street is less so. The truly refined woman will
+never wear those things on the street that will make her conspicuous.
+Here all classes of people meet and mingle, supposedly on business bent,
+and the girl who appears in this public place in party clothes shows
+either very poor judgment or that she is striving to attract public
+attention in the cheapest possible way.
+
+The most stylish girls seen in the city streets are those gowned in
+simple well-made dresses or tailored suits. Hats, gloves, and shoes
+should be as carefully considered as the dress itself and all should
+harmonize.
+
+A simple dark silk dress is almost an essential for street wear in
+spring and summer, to replace the heavier suit or serge dress. Taffeta
+is an excellent material for this dress and makes a much cooler and more
+youthful dress than satin. A taffeta dress needs little trimming, if cut
+on interesting lines. Buttons, tucks, and plaited frills of the same
+material may be used most effectively. Little bits of hand embroidery or
+attractive light collar and cuff sets add much charm to this type of
+dress. Bright colors should not appear upon the street. A "loud" color
+attracts attention as successfully as a loud noise. Any dark neutral
+color becoming to the wearer is well for the street dress. Wool mixtures
+and tweeds are particularly good for suits built on box or belted lines.
+Sport clothes will give the young girl a wonderful opportunity for the
+use of brilliant color. Dresses worn at home and for afternoon and
+evening functions permit the use of delicate colors, more elaborate
+trimming, and more perishable materials.
+
+Remember that a hat should serve a double function. It should act as a
+covering for the head, and its lines and color should enhance the
+attractiveness of the wearer.
+
+[Illustration: SIMPLE DESIGNS FOR TAFFETA STREET DRESSES]
+
+
+The Graduation Dress
+
+One of the most important events in the life of every girl is her
+graduation, and we shall here consider the dress worn by her when she
+has fulfilled all the requirements and that long-anticipated day
+arrives. This occasion is not one for splendor and show, and the cue for
+the girl graduate is modesty and simplicity. She is not supposed to be a
+radiant queen bedecked for a festive occasion, but a charming young girl
+equipped and ready to begin life as a young woman.
+
+The simple and beautiful graduation dress of the past has assumed more
+elaborate proportions during recent years until it has reached the point
+where the students themselves realize that a halt must be called.
+Georgettes, chiffons, and expensive nets have supplanted cotton weaves
+and elaborate creations of lace and satin are not infrequent. The cost
+of the dress itself is increased by such expensive accessories as long
+white kid gloves, expensive slippers and stockings.
+
+What is the girl whose parents possess only moderate means to do under
+these conditions? Perhaps she is graduating with honors. Is she to be
+embarrassed by having to play a Cinderella role by the side of her
+gorgeously attired classmates or shall she strain the family bank
+account and spend money for this ornate apparel that should be spent for
+the education or maintenance of other members of her family?
+
+Surely this is a time when the American girl may show her real spirit of
+democracy. Instead of selecting a handsome dress, which she often
+excuses by saying she wishes to use it afterwards for an evening dress,
+she will choose a really more charming one made of less expensive
+material, which will give her an opportunity to show her originality,
+and make her personal charms more appreciated.
+
+[Illustration: (No. B 820) ORGANDY GRADUATION DRESS (No. B 822)]
+
+Patterns for these dresses may be secured at the College of Industrial Arts.
+
+In many high schools the unfairness of an expensive graduation dress has
+been so much appreciated by the students that a price limit has been set
+for the graduation outfit, and the girl who violates this understanding
+is considered a real offender. The girls who have initiated this have
+been, in many cases, those girls who could best afford the expensive
+garments and by such acts they have demonstrated that they are to make
+the splendid American women of the future, who will lead in those
+movements that bring about the greatest good to the greatest number.
+
+I feel that organdy leads all other materials as desirable for the
+graduation dress. It is a trifle more expensive than some other possible
+materials but its sheerness and crispness give character to the dress,
+making little trimming necessary. A dress of this material may be worn
+for quite a while, as a little pressing always revives its freshness.
+There are some qualities of flaxon that rival organdy as a desirable
+material, and a dress of this may be laundered with perfect safety.
+
+If lace is used on the graduation dress, do not sacrifice quality for
+quantity. A small amount of good lace skillfully used will make a much
+handsomer garment than one festooned with rows of a cheap quality. A
+self-trimmed organdy dress is very distinctive. Dainty little frills and
+pin tucks may be used in many interesting ways, and they may be planned
+so as to be becoming to almost any figure.
+
+Daintiness should be the characteristic quality of the graduation dress.
+It is always disappointing to see elaborate jewelry worn with these
+charming frocks. In many cases the most valued possessions of the family
+have been collected for the occasion and this borrowed finery always
+makes a discordant note in the harmony of the young wearer's costume.
+Under no consideration substitute imitation jewelry for the genuine
+article.
+
+[Illustration: (No. B 824) ORGANDY GRADUATION DRESS (No. B 833)]
+
+Patterns for these dresses may be secured at the College of Industrial Arts.
+
+
+How to Secure Patterns of These Dresses
+
+The College of Industrial Arts, in its efforts to be of service to the
+girls and women of Texas, has made it possible for those desiring
+patterns of the graduation dresses illustrated in this bulletin to
+secure them through the Department of Extension of the College.
+
+The original designs of these dresses were made by highly trained
+artists at the College, whom we feel appreciate the particular needs of
+Texas girls and women. The patterns were cut from these original designs
+by the Vogue Pattern Company of New York, and are sold at thirty cents
+each, their exact cost to the College. An illustration, material
+requirement, and approximate cost are given with each pattern, and they
+are cut in sizes 14, 16, and 18. When ordering patterns state the number
+of the pattern and the size desired.
+
+The quaint little design B 820 will appeal to the young girl who likes a
+touch of originality in her clothes. The becoming fichu and full skirt
+of this design seem to belong to the Colonial days with powdered hair
+and patches. This design, created of organdy, should cost from $5.00 to
+$8.00 according to the material selected. No. B 822 will prove more
+expensive on account of the lace trimming, the approximate cost being
+from $9.00 to $12.00. If interesting materials are chosen, this loose
+peplum and snug ribbon girdle will make quite a distinctive costume,
+becoming to stout figures.
+
+The long-waisted design B 824 is decidedly original and its dainty
+frills and ribbons appeal to young girls. A dress may be made by this
+pattern of good materials for $8.00.
+
+Design B 826 shows a clever interpretation of the narrow skirt so
+popular today. The tiny tucks and frills make a dainty and inexpensive
+trimming, and the costume should cost from $4.00 to $6.00.
+
+No. B 828 demonstrates that vertical ruffles may be used successfully.
+This dress is beautiful when sheer material is used and the ruffles are
+picoted and plaited. It should cost about $6.00.
+
+The slender girl who is not too thin through the bust is charming in
+design B 833. The organdy sash and flounced peplum are designed
+particularly for her. From $6.00 to $8.00 should buy the material for
+this dress.
+
+[Illustration: (No. B 828) ORGANDY GRADUATION DRESS (No. B 826)]
+
+Patterns for these dresses may be secured at the College of Industrial Arts.
+
+
+Lingerie for the Graduation Dress
+
+The garment worn directly under the graduation dress has much to do with
+the effect of the dress itself. This garment should not be picked up at
+random but the fullness of its skirt and the design around the neck
+should be planned to suit the particular dress pattern selected.
+
+Underwear is to the dress what the foundation is to a house, and it
+should be built just as skillfully. It is impossible to secure a dainty
+graceful effect in a dress when it is worn with a clumsy petticoat.
+Styles change in underwear just as they do in dresses and the silhouette
+of the outer garment must decide what the lines of the under one shall
+be. For the present styles soft yielding materials are absolutely
+necessary for underwear and few flounces should be used about the bottom
+of the skirt if the clinging effect around the ankles and knees is
+desired in the dress.
+
+Elaborate lace trimmings are neither in good taste nor stylish, and
+handwork constitutes the decoration on many of the most attractive of
+these garments. Colored lingerie and bright-colored ribbons should be
+worn only when the dress is not transparent. Bright pink and blue
+ribbons in a camisole or chemise will always look a bit garish when
+viewed through a thin blouse.
+
+Color has a magnetic attraction for the eye and wherever placed
+immediately attracts attention to that spot. I am sure refined girls do
+not wish to invite public interest in their lingerie through the use of
+bright colors in their ribbons. The most delicate tints are permissible,
+but should be used only in small quantities. White only should be used
+with the graduation dress.
+
+Since several petticoats are apt to prove clumsy, great care must be
+exerted in selecting the material for this undergarment, to avoid too
+much transparency when worn under the very sheer organdy dress.
+
+[Illustration: LINGERIE FOR THE GRADUATION DRESS]
+
+
+Corsets and Posture
+
+The envelope chemise and knickerbockers are very comfortable
+undergarments and are quite popular with most young girls of today. They
+may be made most attractive when soft dainty materials are used and the
+needlework is carefully executed. These garments should be kept quite
+simple. If lace is used it should be in limited quantities and of a kind
+that may be laundered often. Little bits of dainty feather stitching and
+hand embroidery will add individual charm to these undergarments.
+
+Style depends not only upon the proper selection of clothes but very
+largely upon the way these clothes are put on and worn. Many girls
+wearing beautiful clothes are decidedly "not stylish." Their clothes
+look as though they had fallen upon their owners. This is caused by the
+fact that the wearer does not carry herself well, or has not good poise.
+Nothing is so vitally necessary for good health and good looks as good
+posture. The slouchy, humped-over girl is unattractive enough when
+young, but when she develops into a misshapen woman with superfluous
+flesh about the abdomen and shoulders the most skillful artist will be
+unable to disguise her deformities. The girl with the debutante slouch
+or the one who "sits in her corsets" is rarely graceful. The uncorseted
+figure is the popular one today but if corsets must be worn they should
+be most carefully selected. Fortunately the long, unyielding coats of
+mail of several years ago are now rarely seen on girls, and soft,
+flexible girdles leaving the figure with its natural lines and grace,
+have appeared as substitutes. A well-shapen brassiere is often necessary
+with these low-busted girdles.
+
+A stylish girl has good poise. This means that she stands well, walks
+well, carries her head high, her shoulders back, and looks the world in
+the face. The clothes worn by this girl will take the correct swing.
+
+[Illustration: ENVELOPE AND KNICKERBOCKER CHEMISE]
+
+
+Shoes and Feet
+
+[Illustration: "Shoes and Feet" showing an image of "Good unspoiled
+American feet," and "A bunion is in the bone."]
+
+All organizations and publications keenly interested in the welfare of
+young women are making a strenuous effort to produce better American
+feet, and this is to be done directly through the shoes worn by our
+girls. The Y. W. C. A. during the war discovered that lack of endurance
+among girls could be traced back directly to misshapen feet, flattened
+arches, weak backs and abdominal muscles. In almost every case these had
+been caused by wearing high-heel shoes.
+
+The human body is built and strung so that a person may walk and stand
+with natural grace and ease. When the equilibrium of this delicate
+mechanism is disturbed by inserting a spindle heel directly under that
+point responsible for most of the human weight, it is not surprising
+that physical ails result that must be carried through life.
+
+A French or spindle heel is absolutely inconsistent for any occasion
+when walking or standing is to be done and is certainly not artistic
+when worn with a tailored dress or suit. Vanity, gratified by a foot
+that seemingly is a bit smaller, should not compensate for the loss of
+good health, good sense, natural grace and efficiency. An elaborate
+evening dress may call for a higher heel than the one worn on the
+street, but it will not excuse the wabbly spindle heels sold girls by
+many ruthless concerns.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Appropriate Clothes for the High
+School Girl, by Virginia M. Alexander
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK APPROPRIATE CLOTHES FOR THE ***
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