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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A West Country Pilgrimage, by Eden Phillpots
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A West Country Pilgrimage
+
+Author: Eden Phillpots
+
+Illustrator: A. T. Benthall
+
+Release Date: August 3, 2011 [EBook #36967]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A WEST COUNTRY PILGRIMAGE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow, Matthew Wheaton and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+    [Illustration: TINTAGEL.]
+
+
+
+
+    A WEST COUNTRY PILGRIMAGE
+
+    BY EDEN PHILLPOTTS
+
+
+    AUTHOR OF
+    "DANCE OF THE MONTHS," "A SHADOW PASSES," ETC.
+
+    _ILLUSTRATED BY A. T. BENTHALL_
+
+    LONDON
+    LEONARD PARSONS
+    PORTUGAL STREET
+
+    _First Published, May 1920_
+
+    _Leonard Parsons, Ltd._
+
+
+
+
+    CONTENTS
+
+
+    HAYES BARTON
+    THE SAD HEATH
+    DAWLISH WARREN
+    THE OLD GREY HOUSE
+    BERRY POMEROY
+    BERRY HEAD
+    THE QUARRY AND THE BRIDGE
+    BAGTOR
+    OKEHAMPTON CASTLE
+    THE GORGE
+    THE GLEN
+    A DEVON CROSS
+    COOMBE
+    OLD DELABOLE
+    TINTAGEL
+    A CORNISH CROSS
+
+
+
+
+HAYES BARTON
+
+[Illustration: HAYES BARTON.]
+
+
+East of Exe River and south of those rolling heaths crowned by the
+encampment of Woodberry, there lies a green valley surrounded by forest
+and hill. Beyond it rise great bluffs that break in precipices upon the
+sea. They are dimmed to sky colour by a gentle wind from the east, for
+Eurus, however fierce his message, sweeps a fair garment about him. Out
+of the blue mists that hide distance the definition brightens and lesser
+hills range themselves, their knolls dark with pine, their bosoms
+rounded under forest of golden green oak and beech; while beneath them a
+mosaic of meadow and tilth spreads in pure sunshine. One field is
+brushed with crimson clover; another with dull red of sorrel through the
+green meadow grass; another shines daisy-clad and drops to the green of
+wheat. Some crofts glow with the good red earth of Devon, and no growing
+things sprout as yet upon them; but they hold seed of roots and their
+hidden wealth will soon answer the rain.
+
+In the heart of the vale a brook twinkles and buttercups lie in pools of
+gold, where lambs are playing together.
+
+Elms set bossy signets on the land and throng the hedgerows, their round
+tops full of sunshine; under them the hawthorns sparkle very white
+against the riot of the green. From the lifted spinneys and coverts,
+where bluebells fling their amethyst at the woodland edge, pheasants
+are croaking, and silver-bright against the blue aloft, wheel gulls, to
+link the lush valley with the invisible and not far distant sea. They
+cry and musically mew from their high place; and beneath them the cuckoo
+answers.
+
+Nestling now upon the very heart of this wide vale a homestead lies,
+where the fields make a dimple and the burn comes flashing. Byres and
+granaries light gracious colour here, for their slate roofs are mellow
+with lichen of red gold, and they stand as a bright knot round which the
+valley opens and blossoms with many-coloured petals. The very buttercups
+shine pale by contrast, and the apple-blooth, its blushes hidden from
+this distance, masses in pure, cold grey beneath the glow of these great
+roofs. Cob walls stretch from the outbuildings, and their summits are
+protected against weather by a little penthouse of thatch. In their arms
+the walls hold a garden of many flowers, rich in promise of small
+fruits. Gooseberries and raspberries flourish amid old gnarled apple
+trees; there are strawberries, too, and the borders are bright with May
+tulips and peonies. Stocks and wallflowers blow flagrant by the pathway,
+murmured over by honey bees; while where the farmhouse itself stands,
+deep of eave under old thatch, twin yew trees make a dark splash on
+either side of the entrance, and a wistaria showers its mauve ringlets
+upon the grey and ancient front. The dormer windows are all open, and
+there is a glimpse of a cool darkness through the open door. Within the
+solid walls of this dwelling neither sunshine nor cold can penetrate,
+and Hayes Barton is warm in winter, in summer cool. The house is shaped
+in the form of a great E, and it has been patched and tinkered through
+the centuries; but still stands, complete and sturdy in harmony of
+design, with unspoiled dignity from a far past. Only the colours round
+about it change with the painting of the seasons, for the forms of hill
+and valley, the modelling of the roof-tree, the walls and the great
+square pond outside the walls, change not. Enter, and above the
+dwelling-rooms you shall find a chamber with wagon roof and window
+facing south. It is, on tradition meet to be credited, the birthplace of
+Walter Ralegh.
+
+Proof rests with Sir Walter's own assertion, and at one time the manor
+house of Fardel, under Dartmoor, claimed the honour; but Ralegh himself
+declares that he was born at Hayes, and speaks of his "natural
+disposition to the place" for that reason. He desired, indeed, to
+purchase his childhood's home and make his Devonshire seat there; but
+this never happened, though the old, three-gabled, Tudor dwelling has
+passed through many hands and many notable families.
+
+"Probably no conceivable growth of democracy," says a writer on Ralegh's
+genealogy, "will make the extraction of a famous man other than a point
+of general interest." Ralegh's family, at least, won more lustre from
+him than he from them, though his mother, of the race of the
+Champernownes, was a mother of heroes indeed. By her first marriage she
+had borne Sir Walter's great half-brother, Humphrey Gilbert; and when
+Otho Gilbert passed, the widow wedded Walter Ralegh, and gave birth to
+another prodigy. The family of the Raleghs must have been a large and
+scattered one; but our Western historian, Prince, stoutly declares that
+Sir Walter was descended from an ancient and noble folk, "and could have
+produced a much fairer pedigree than some of those who traduc'd him."
+
+The tale of his manifold labours has been inadequately told, though Fame
+will blow her trumpet above his grave for ever; but among the lesser
+histories Prince's brief chronicle is delightful reading, and we may
+quote a passage or two for the pleasure of those who pursue this note.
+
+"A new country was discovered by him in 1584," says the historian,
+"called in honour of the Queen, Virginia: a country that hath been since
+of no inconsiderable profit to our nation, it being so agreeable to our
+English bodies, so profitable to the Exchequer, and so fruitful in
+itself; an acre there yielding over forty bushels of corn; and, which is
+more strange, there being three harvests in a year: for their corn is
+sow'd, ripe and cut down in little more than two months."
+
+I fear Virginia to-day will not corroborate these agricultural wonders.
+
+We may quote again, for Prince, on Sir Walter's distinction, is
+instructive at this moment:--
+
+"For this and other beneficial expeditions and designs, her Majesty was
+pleased to confer on him the honour of Knighthood; which in her reign
+was more esteemed; the Queen keeping the temple of honour close shut,
+and never open'd but to vertue and desert."
+
+Well may democracy call for the destruction of that temple when
+contemplating those that are permitted entrance to-day.
+
+Then vanished Elizabeth, and a coward king took her place.
+
+"Fourteen years Sir Walter spent in the Tower, of whom Prince Henry
+would say that no King but his father would keep such a bird in a cage."
+
+But freedom followed, and the scholar turned into the soldier again.
+Ultimately Spain had her way with her scourge and terror. James
+ministered to her revenge, and Ralegh perished; "the only man left
+alive, of note, that had helped to beat the Spaniards in the year 1588."
+
+The favour of the axe was his last, and being asked which way he would
+dispose himself upon the block, he answered, "So the heart be right, it
+is no matter which way the head lieth."
+
+"Authors," adds old Prince, "are perplexed under what topick to place
+him, whether of statesman, seaman, soldier, chymist, or chronologer; for
+in all these he did excel. He could make everything he read or heard his
+own, and his own he would easily improve to the greatest advantage. He
+seemed to be born to that only which he went about, so dextrous was he
+in all his undertakings, in Court, camp, by sea, by land, with sword,
+with pen. And no wonder, for he slept but five hours; four he spent in
+reading and mastering the best authors; two in a select conversation and
+an inquisitive discourse; the rest in business."
+
+We may say of him that not only did he write _The History of the World_,
+but helped to make it; we may hold of all Devon's mighty sons, this man
+the mightiest. Fair works have been inspired by his existence, but one
+ever regrets that Gibbon, who designed a life of Ralegh, was called to
+relinquish the idea before the immensity of his greater theme.
+
+In the western meadow without the boundary of Hayes Barton there lies a
+great pool, where a cup has been hollowed to hold the brook. Here, under
+oak trees, one may sit, mark a clean reflection of the farmhouse upon
+the water, and regard the window of the birth chamber opening on the
+western gable of the homestead. Thence the august infant's eyes first
+drew light, his lungs, the air. He has told us that dear to memory was
+that snug nook, and many times, while he wandered the world and wrote
+his name upon the golden scroll, we may guess that the hero turned his
+thought to these happy valleys and, in the mind, mirrored this haunt of
+peace.
+
+
+
+
+THE SAD HEATH
+
+[Illustration: THE SAD HEATH.]
+
+
+Through the sad heath white roads wandered, trickling hither and thither
+helplessly. There was no set purpose in them; they meandered up the
+great hill and sometimes ran together to support each other. Then,
+fortified by the contact, they climbed on across the dusky upland, where
+it rolled and fell and lifted steadily to the crown of the land: a
+flat-headed clump of beech and oak with a fosse round about it. Only the
+roads twisting through this waste and a pool or two scattered upon it
+brought any light to earth; but there were flowers also, for the whins
+dragged a spatter of dull gold through the sere and a blackthorn hedge
+shivered cold and white, where fallow crept to the edge of the moors.
+For the rest, from the sad-coloured sky to the sentinel pines that rose
+in little detached clusters on every side, all was restrained and almost
+melancholy. The pines specially distinguished this rolling heath. They
+lifted their darkness in clumps, ascending to the hill-tops, spattered
+every acre of the land, and sprang as infant plants under the foot of
+the wanderer. Scarcely a hundred yards lacked them; and they ranged from
+the least seedling to full-grown trees that rose together and thrust
+with dim red branch and bough through their own darkness.
+
+There was no wind on the heath, and few signs of spring. She had passed,
+as it seemed, lighted the furzes, waked a thousand catkins on the dwarf
+sallows in the bogs, and then departed elsewhere. One felt that the
+deserted heath desired her return and regarded its obstinate winter
+robes with impatience. It was an uplifted place, and seemed to shoulder
+darkly out of the milder, mellower world beneath. Far below, an estuary
+shone through the valley welter and ran a streak of dull silver from
+south to north; while easterly rose up the grey horizons of the sea.
+
+In the murk of that silent hour, a spirit of thirst seemed to animate
+the heather and the marshes that oozed out beneath. The secret impressed
+upon my conscious intelligence was one of suspense, a watchful and alert
+attitude--an emotion shared by the trees and the thickets, the heath and
+the hills. It ascended higher and higher to the frowning crest of the
+land, where round woods made a crown for the wilderness and marked
+castramentations of old time. So unchanging appeared this place that
+little imagination was needed to bring back the past and revive a
+vanished century when the legions flashed where now the great trees
+frowned and a hive of men, loosed from a hundred galleys, swarmed hither
+to dig the ditches and pile these venerable earthworks for a stronghold.
+
+Thus the place lay in the lap of that tenebrous hour and waited for the
+warm rain to loose its fountains of sap and brush the loneliness with
+waking and welcoming green. It endured and hoped and seemed to turn
+blind eyes from the pond and bog upward to question the gathering
+clouds.
+
+Nigh me, a persistent and inquiring thrush clamoured from a pine. I
+could see his amber, speckled bosom shaking with his song.
+
+"Why did he do it? Why did he do it? Why did he?"
+
+He had asked the question a thousand times; and then a dark bird, that
+flapped high and heavy through the grey air, answered him.
+
+"God knows! God knows!" croaked the carrion crow.
+
+
+
+
+DAWLISH WARREN
+
+[Illustration: DAWLISH WARREN.]
+
+
+There is a spit of land that runs across the estuary of the Exe, and as
+the centuries pass, the sea plays pranks with it. A few hundred years
+ago the tideway opened to the West, not far from the red cliffs that
+tower there, and then Exmouth and the Warren were one; but now it is at
+Exmouth that the long sands are separated from the shore and, past that
+little port, the ships go up the river, while the eastern end of the
+Warren joins the mainland. So it has stood within man's memory; but now,
+as though tired of this arrangement, wind and sea are modifying the
+place again, for the one has found a new path in the midst, and the
+other has blown at the sand dunes until their heads are reduced by many
+feet from their old altitude.
+
+These sands are many-coloured, for over the yellow staple prevails a
+delicate and changing harmony of various tones, now rose, now blue, as
+though a million minute shining particles were reflecting the light of
+the sky and bringing it to earth on their tiny surfaces. But in truth
+these tender shades show where the sand is weathered, for if we walk
+upon it and break the thin crust created by the last rain, the dream
+tints depart, and a brighter corn colour breaks through. Coarse
+mat-grass binds the dunes and helps to hold them together against the
+forces of wind and water; but their tendency is to decrease. Perhaps
+observation would prove that their masses shift and vanish more quickly
+than we guess, for the sand is the sea's toy, and she makes and unmakes
+her castles at will.
+
+As a lad, I very well remember the silvery hills towering to little
+mountains above my head; and again I can hear the gentle tinkle of the
+sand for ever rustling about me where I basked like a lizard in some
+sun-baked nook. I remember the horrent couch grass that waved its ragged
+tresses above me, and how I told myself that the range of the sand dunes
+were great lions with bristling manes marching along to Exmouth.
+Presently they would swim across to the shore and eat up everybody, as
+soon as they had landed and shaken themselves. And the mud-flats I loved
+well also, where the sea-lavender spread its purple on sound land above
+the network of mud. I flushed summer snipe there and often lay
+motionless to watch sea-birds fishing. Many wild flowers flourished and
+the glass-wort made the flats as red as blood in autumn. It was a
+dreamland of wonders for me, and now I was seeking mermaids' purses in
+the tide-fringe and sorrowing to find them empty; now I was after
+treasure-trove flung overboard from pirate ships, now hunting for the
+secret hiding-places of buccaneers in the dunes.
+
+The ships go by still; but not the ships I knew; the flowers still
+sparkle in the hollows and brakes; but their wonder has waned a little.
+No more shall I weave the soldanella and sea-rocket and grey-green wheat
+grass into crowns for the sea-nymphs to find when they come up from the
+waves in the moonlight.
+
+It is a place of sweet air and wonderful sunshine. On a sunny day, with
+the sand ablaze against the blue sky, one might think oneself in some
+desert region of the East; but then green spaces, scarlet flags and a
+warning "fore!" tell a different story. For golfers have found the
+Warren now. Where once I roamed with only the gulls above and rabbits
+below for company, and for music the sigh of the wind in the bents and
+the song of the sea, half a hundred little houses have sprung up, and
+bungalows, red and white and green, throng the Warren. At hand is a
+railway-station, whence hundreds descend to take their pleasure, while
+easterly this once peaceful region is most populous and the Exmouth
+boats cross the estuary and land their passengers.
+
+One does not grudge the joy of the place to townsfolk or golfers; one
+only remembers the old haunt of peace, now peaceful no more, the old
+beauties that have vanished under the little dwellings and little
+flagstaffs, the former fine distinction that has departed.
+
+Dawlish Warren now gives pleasure to hundreds, where once only the
+dreamer or sportsman wandered through its mazes; and that is well; but
+we of the old brigade, who remember its far-flung loneliness, its rare
+wild flowers, its unique contours, its isolation and peculiar charm, may
+be forgiven if we forget the twentieth century for a season and conjure
+back the old time before us.
+
+Topsham, in the estuary, wakens thoughts of the Danes and their sword
+and fire, when Hungar and Hubba brought their Viking ships up the river,
+destroyed the busy little port, and, pushing on, defeated St. Edmond,
+King of the East Angles. The pagans scourged this Christian monarch
+with whips, then bound him to a tree and slew him.
+
+    Tho' no place was left for wounds,
+      Yet arrows did not fail.
+    These furious wretches still let fly
+      Thicker than winter's hail.
+
+So writes the old poet quoted by Risdon, who adds that the Danes,
+cutting off St. Edmond's head, "contumeliously threw it in a bush."
+
+But Topsham in Tudor times was a place of importance, a naval port, a
+mart and road for ships. Thanks to weirs built across the waterway by
+the Earls of Devon, Exeter began to lose its old-time trade, when the
+tide was wont to ascend to the city. Therefore Exeter fought the earls,
+and in the reign of Henry VIII. the city obtained a grant to cut a canal
+from Topsham. Thus vessels of fifteen tons burthen could ascend to the
+capital, and Topsham sank under the blow and lost its old importance.
+
+Exmouth also figures in the reign of Edward I. as a naval port. In 1298
+she contributed a fighting ship to the Fleet, and in 1347 sent ten
+vessels to aid the third Edward's expedition against Calais. From
+Exmouth, too, Edward IV. and Warwick, "the King Maker," embarked for the
+Continent.
+
+Risdon also makes mention of Lympston, another village in the estuary,
+aforetime in the lordship of the Dynhams, "of which family John Dynham,
+a valiant esquire siding with the Earl of March, took the Lord Rivers
+and Sir Anthony his son at Sandwich in their beds, when he was hurt in
+the leg, the 37th Henry 6."
+
+The villages are worth a visit still, but Exmouth is best known to those
+who visit Dawlish Warren now. For the open sea welcomes all who come
+hither, and the little holiday homes that stand on either side of the
+tidal stream are too few for those who would dwell here in July and
+August if they could.
+
+I have seen dawn upon the Exe, and watched the mists rise upon these
+heron-haunted flats to meet the morning. Then the villages twinkle out
+over the water, and a land breeze wakens the sleepy dunes, ruffles the
+still waters and fills the red sails of little fishers that come down to
+the sea.
+
+
+
+
+THE OLD GREY HOUSE
+
+[Illustration: THE OLD GREY HOUSE.]
+
+
+Among the ancient, fortified manors of the West Country there is a
+pleasant ruin whose history is innocent of event, yet glorified with a
+noble name or two that rings down through the centuries harmoniously.
+You shall find Compton Castle where the hamlet of Lower Marldon
+straggles through a deep and fertile valley not many miles from Torbay.
+
+Compton's time-stained face and crown of ivy rise now above a plat of
+flowers. Trim borders of familiar things blossom within their box-hedges
+before the entrance, and at this autumn hour fat dahlias, spiring
+hollyhocks, and rainbows of asters and pansies wind a girdle beneath the
+walls.
+
+It is a ruin of wide roofs and noble frontage. Above its windows
+sinister bartizans frown grimly; the portals yawn vast and deep; only
+the chapel-windows open frankly upon the face of the dwelling; but
+above, all apertures are narrow, up to the embattled towers.
+
+In the lap of many an enfolding hill Compton huddles its aged fabric,
+and, despite certain warlike additions, can have risen for no purpose of
+offence, for the land rakes it on every side; it stands at the bottom of
+a great green cup, whose slopes are crowned with fir and beech, whose
+sides now glimmer under stubble of corn, green of roots, and wealth of
+wide orchards, bright with the ripening harvest. Close at hand men make
+ready the cider-presses again, and the cooper's mallet echoes among his
+barrels.
+
+Much of the castle still stands, and the entrance hall, chapel, priest's
+chamber, and kitchen, with its gigantic hearth and double chimney, are
+almost intact. A mouldering roof of lichened slates still covers more
+than half of the ruin; but the banqueting hall has vanished, and many a
+tower and turret, under their weight of ivy, lift ragged and broken to
+the sky. Where now jackdaws chiefly dwell and bats sidle through the
+naked windows at call of dusk; where wind and rain find free entrance
+and pellitory-of-the-wall hangs its foliage for tapestry, with toadflax
+and blue speedwell; where Nature labours unceasing from fern-crowned
+battlement to mossy plinth, there dwelt of old the family of Gilbert.
+
+One Joan Compton conveyed the manor for her partage in the second
+Edward's reign; and of their posterity are justly remembered and
+revered the sons of Otho Gilbert, whose lady--a maiden of the
+Champernownes--bore not only Humphrey, the adventurer, who discovered
+Gilbert's Straits and founded the first British settlement of
+Newfoundland; but also his more famous uterine brother, Walter Ralegh.
+For upon Otho Gilbert's passing, his dame mated with Walter Ralegh of
+Fardel, and by him brought into the world the poet, statesman, soldier,
+courtier, explorer, and master-jewel of Elizabeth's Court. A noble
+matron surely must have been that Katherine, mother of two such sons;
+and less only in honour to these knights were Sir Humphrey's brothers,
+of whom Sir John, his senior, rendered himself acceptable to God and man
+by manifold charities and virtues; while Adrian Gilbert is declared a
+gentleman very eminent for his skill in mines and matters of engineering
+and science.
+
+Within these walls tradition brings Sir Walter and Sir Humphrey
+together. We may reasonably see them here discussing their far-reaching
+projects, while still the world smiled and both basked in the sunshine
+of Royal favour. Yet, at the end of their triumphs, from our standpoint
+in time, we can mark, stealing along the avenue of years, the shadow,
+hideous in one case and violent in both, destined presently to put a
+period to each great life.
+
+When the little _Squirrel_, a vessel of but ten tons burthen, was
+bearing Sir Humphrey upon his last voyage from Newfoundland, before his
+vision there took shape the spectre of a mighty lion gliding over the
+sea, "yawning and gaping wide as he went." Upon which portent there rose
+the storm whereby he perished. Yet the knight's memory is green, and his
+golden anchor, with pearl at peak, badge of a Sovereign's grace, is not
+forgot; nor his crest of a squirrel, whose living prototype still haunts
+the fir trees beside the castle; nor his motto, worthy of so righteous a
+genius and steadfast a man: "_Malem mori, quam mutare_."
+
+The navigator passed to his restless resting-place in 1584; his
+half-brother, still busy with the colonisation of Virginia, did not
+kneel at Westminster and brush his grey hair from the path of the axe
+until Fate had juggled with him for further four-and-thirty years. Then
+his sword and pen were laid down; his wise head fell low; and the
+portion of the great: well-doing, ill report, was won.
+
+At gloaming time, when the jackdaws make an end; when the owl glides
+out from his tower to the trees and the beetles boom, twilight shadows
+begin to move and the old grey house broods, like a sentient thing, upon
+the past; but no unhappy spirits haunt its desolation, and the mighty
+dead, despite their taking off, revisit these glimpses of the moon to
+clasp pale hands no more. Abundant life flows to the gate and circles
+the walls. Arable land ascends the hills, and the clank of plough and
+cry of man to his horses will soon be heard in the stubble of the corn.
+The orchards flash ruddy and gold; to-morrow they will be naked and
+grey; and then again they will foam with flowers and roll in a white sea
+to the castle walls. Time rings his rounds and forgets not this
+sequestered hollow. Today, beside the entrance-gate of Compton, the
+husbandman mounts his nag from that same "upping-stock" whence a Gilbert
+and a Ralegh leapt to horse in England's age of gold.
+
+
+
+
+BERRY POMEROY
+
+[Illustration: BERRY POMEROY.]
+
+
+Hither, a thousand years and more ago, rode Radulphus de la Pomerio,
+lord of the Norman Castle of the Orchard; for William I. was generous to
+those who helped his conquests. Radulphus, as the result of a hero's
+achievements at Hastings, won eight-and-fifty Devon lordships, and of
+these he chose Beri, "the Walled town," for his barony, or honour.
+
+Forward we may imagine him pressing with his cavalcade, through the
+wooded hills and dales, until this limestone crag and plateau in the
+forest suddenly opened upon his view, and the Norman eagle, judging the
+strength of such a position, quickly determined that here should his
+eyrie be built. For it was a stronghold impregnable before the days of
+gunpowder.
+
+So the banner with the Pomeroy lion upon it was set aloft on the bluff,
+and soon the sleep of the woods departed to the strenuous labour of a
+thousand men. There is a great gap in the hill close at hand that shows
+whence came these time-worn stones, when a feudal multitude of workers
+were set upon their task. Then, grim, squat and stern, with a hundred
+eyes from which the cross-bow's bolts might leap, arose another Norman
+castle, its watch-towers and great ramparts wedged into the woods and
+beetling over the valley beneath. It sprang from the solid rock,
+dominated a gorge, and so stood for many hundred years, during which
+time the descendants of Ralph exercised baronial rights and enjoyed the
+favour of their princes. The family, indeed, continued to prosper until
+1549, but then disaster overtook them and they disappeared, disgraced.
+It was during this year that Devon opposed the "Act for Reforming the
+Church Service." Tooth and nail she resented the proposed changes; and
+among the malcontents there figured a soldier Pomeroy, now head of his
+house, who had fought with distinction in France during the reign of
+Henry VIII. Like many another military veteran since his time, he
+assumed an exceedingly definite attitude on matters of religion, and
+held tolerance a doubtful virtue where dogma was involved. Him,
+therefore, the discontented gentlemen of the West elected their leader,
+and, after preliminary successes, the baron lost the day at Clist Heath,
+nigh Exeter. He was captured, and only escaped with his life. He kept
+his head on his shoulders, but Berry Pomeroy became sequestrated to the
+Crown.
+
+By purchase, the old castle now owned new masters, for the Seymours
+followed the founders in their heritage, and the great Elizabethan ruin,
+that lies in the midst of the Norman work and towers above it, is of
+their creation.
+
+Sir Edward--a descendant of the Protector--it was who, when William III.
+remarked to him, "I believe you are of the family of the Duke of
+Somerset?" made instant reply, "Pardon, sir; the Duke of Somerset is of
+my family." This haughty gentleman was the last of his race to dwell at
+Berry Pomeroy; but to his descendants the castle still belongs, and it
+can utter this unique boast: that since the Conquest it has changed
+hands but once.
+
+The fabric of Seymour's mansion was, it is said, never completed, but
+enough still stands to make an imposing ruin; while the earlier
+fragments of the original fortress, including the southern gateway, the
+pillared chamber above it and the north wing of the quadrangle, complete
+a spectacle sufficiently splendid in its habiliments of grey and green.
+
+Nature had played with it and rendered it beautiful. Ivy crowns every
+turret and shattered wall; its limbs writhe like hydras in and out of
+the ruined windows, and twist their fingers into the rotting mortar;
+while along the tattered battlements and archways, grass and wild
+flowers grow rankly together and many saplings of oak and ash and thorn
+find foothold aloft. Over all the jackdaws chime and chatter, for it is
+their home now, and they share it with the owl and the flittermouse.
+
+Seen from beyond the stew ponds in the valley below, the ruins of Berry
+still present a noble vision piled among the tree-tops into the sky, and
+never can it more attract than at autumn time, when the wealth of the
+woods is scattered and only spruce and pine trail their green upon the
+grey and amber of the naked forest. Then, against the low, lemon light
+of a clear sunset, Berry's ragged crown ascends like a haunted castle in
+a fairy story; while beneath the evening glow, the still water casts
+many a crooked reflection from the overhanging branches, and the last
+leaves hanging on the osiers splash gold against the gloom of the banks.
+The hour is very still after wind and rain; twilight broods under
+gathering vapours, while another night gently obscures detail and
+renders all formless and vast as the darkness falls. The castle is
+swallowed up in the woods; the first owl hoots; then there is a rush
+overhead and a splash and scutter below, as the wild duck come down from
+above, and, for a little while, break the peace with their noise. Their
+flurry on the water sets up wavelets, that catch the last of the light
+and run to bank with a little sigh. Then all is silent and stars begin
+to twinkle through the network of boughs at forest edge.
+
+
+
+
+BERRY HEAD
+
+[Illustration: BERRY HEAD.]
+
+
+Upon this seaward-facing headland the great cliffs slope outward like
+the sides of an old "three-decker." They bulge upon the sea, and the
+flower-clad scales of the limestone are full of lustrous light and
+colour, shining radiantly upon the still tide that flows at their feet.
+For, on this breathless August day, the very sea is weary; not a ripple
+of foam marks juncture of rock and water.
+
+The cliffs are spattered with green, where scurvy-grass and samphire,
+thrift and stonecrop find foothold in every cleft; but the flowers are
+nearly gone; the rare, white rock rose which haunts these crags has shed
+her last petal and the little cathartic flax and centaury; the snowy
+dropwort, storks-bill and carline thistles have all been scorched away
+by days of sunshine and dewless nights. Only the sea lavender still
+brushes the great, glaring planes of stone with cool colour, and a wild
+mallow lolls here and there out of a crevice.
+
+By the coastguard path holiday folk tramp with hot faces, but, save for
+the gulls, there is little sound or movement, for land and sea are
+swooning in the heavy noontide hour. The birds are everywhere--cresting
+the finials of the rocks, swooping over the sea, busy teaching the
+little grey "squabs" to use their wings and trust the air. Now and then
+a coney thrusts his ears from a burrow, likes not the heat, and pops
+back again to his cool, dark parlour. Brown hawks hang above the brown
+sward. Life seems to be retreating before the pitiless sun, yet the
+sear, scorched grasses will be green again in a few weeks when the
+cisterns of the autumn rains open upon them. Already tiny, blue _scilla
+autumnalis_ is pressing her head through the turf.
+
+Islets lie off-shore, so full of light that they glow like bubbles blown
+of air and seem to float on the surface of the sea. Their shadows fall
+in delicious purple on the aquamarine waters and warm hues percolate
+their ragged, silver faces, while the gulls cluster in myriads upon
+them, and, black and silent among the noisy sea-fowl, stand dusky
+cormorants with long necks lifted. Like pale blue silk, shot and
+streamed over with pure light, the Channel rises to the mists of the
+horizon. Light penetrates air and water and earth, so that the weight of
+land and water are lifted off them and lost; indeed the scene appears to
+be composed of imponderable hazes and vapours merging into each other;
+it is wrought in planes of light--a gorgeous, unsubstantial illumination
+as though the clouds were come to earth. The eternal melody of the gulls
+pierces the picture with sound, hard and metallic, until their din and
+racket seem of heavier substance and reality than the mighty cliffs and
+sea from which it pours. Yet the birds themselves, in their floatings
+and their wheelings, are lighter than feathers. They make the only
+movement save for fisher craft with tan-red sails now streaming in line
+round the Head to sea. For the Scruff they are bound--a great, sandy
+bottom where sole and turbot dwell ten sea-miles off-shore.
+
+Inland gleam cornfields of heavy grain ripe for harvest--pale yellow of
+oats and golden brown of wheat, where the poppies stir with the gipsy
+rose; and flung up upon the cliff-edge rise lofty ramparts, ribbed with
+granite and bored by portholes for cannon. A modern gun a league out at
+sea would crumble these masonries like sponge-cake; but they were lifted
+in haste a hundred years ago, when England quaked at the threatened
+advent of "Boney," whose ordnance could not have destroyed them. The
+great fortresses were piled by many thousands of busy hands, yet time
+sped quicker than the engineers, and before the forts were completed,
+Napoleon, from the deck of the _Bellerophon_ in the bay beneath, had
+looked his last on Europe.
+
+Still the unfinished work sprawls over the cliffs, and whence cannon
+were meant to stare, now thrust the blackberry, brier and eagle-fern
+through the embrasures, and stunted black-thorns and white-thorns shine
+green against the grey.
+
+One clambers among them to seek the gift of a patch of shade, and
+wonders what the first Napoleon would have thought of the hydroplane
+purring out to sea half a mile overhead.
+
+
+
+
+THE QUARRY AND THE BRIDGE
+
+[Illustration: THE QUARRY AND THE BRIDGE.]
+
+
+Lastrea and athyrium, their foliage gone, cling in silky russet knobs
+under the granite ledges, warm the iron-grey stone with brown and agate
+brightness, and promise many a beauty of unfolding frond when spring
+shall come again. For their jewels will be unfolding presently, to
+soften the cleft granite with misty green and bring the vernal time to
+these silent cliffs.
+
+The quarry lies like a gash in the slope of the hills. To the dizzy
+edges of it creep heather and the bracken; beneath, upon its precipices,
+a stout rowan or two rises, and everywhere Nature has fought and
+laboured to hide this wound driven so deep into her mountain-side by
+man. A cicatrix of moss and fern and many grasses conceal the scars of
+pick and gunpowder; time has weathered the harsh edges of the riven
+stone; the depths of the quarry are covered by pools of clear water, for
+it is nearly a hundred years since the place yielded its stores.
+
+One great silence is the quarry now--an amphitheatre of peace and quiet
+hemmed by the broken abutments of granite, and opening upon the
+hillside. The heather extends over wide, dun spaces to a blue distance,
+where evening lies dim upon the plains beneath; round about a minor
+music of dripping water tinkles from the sides of the quarry; a current
+of air brushes the pools and for a moment frets their pale surfaces;
+the dead rushes murmur and then are silent; here and there, along the
+steps and steep places flash the white scuts of the rabbits. A pebble is
+dislodged by one of them, and, falling to the water beneath, sets rings
+of light widening out upon it and raises a little sound.
+
+In the midst, casting its jagged shadow upon the water, springs a great,
+ancient crane from which long threads of iron still stretch round about
+to the cliffs. It stands stoutly yet and marks the meaning of all around
+it.
+
+At time of twilight it is good to be here, for then one may measure the
+profundity of such peace and contrast this matrix of vanished granite
+with the scene of its present disposal; one may drink from this cup all
+the mystery that fills a deserted theatre of man's work and feel that
+loneliness which only human ruins tell; and then one may open the eye of
+the mind upon another vision, and suffer the ear of imagination to throb
+with its full-toned roar.
+
+For hence came London Bridge; the mighty masses of granite riven from
+this solitude span Thames.
+
+Away in the heath and winding onward by many a curve may yet be traced
+the first railroad in the West Country. It started here, upon the
+frontier hills of Dartmoor, and sank mile upon mile to the valleys
+beneath. But of granite were wrought the lines, and over them ran
+ponderous wagons. Many thousand feet of stone were first cut for the
+railway, before those greater masses destined for London set forth upon
+it to their destination.
+
+Like the empty quarry this deserted railway now lies silent, and the
+place of its passing on the hills and through the forest beneath is at
+peace again. From the Moor the tramway drops into the woods of Yarner,
+and here, between a heathery hillside and the fringes of the forest, the
+broken track may still be found, its semi-grooved lengths of granite
+scattered and clad in emerald moss, where once the great wheels were
+wont to grind it. The line passes under interlacing boughs of beeches
+and winds this way and that, like a grey snake, through the copper
+brightness of the fallen leaves; it turns and twists, dropping ever, and
+ceases at last at the mouth of a little canal in the valley, where
+barges waited of old to carry the stone to the sea.
+
+Here also is stagnation now, but picturesque wrecks of the ancient boats
+may still be seen at Teigngrace in the forgotten waterway. They lie
+foundered upon the canal with bulging sides and broken ribs. Their
+shapes are outlined in grasses and flowers; sallows leap silvery from
+the old bulwarks and alders find foothold there; briar and kingcups
+flourish upon their decay; moss and ferns conceal their wounds; in
+summer purple spires of loosestrife man their water-logged decks, and
+the vole swims to and from his hidden nest therein.
+
+Here came the Hey Tor granite, after dropping twelve hundred feet from
+the Moor above. Leaving the great wains, it was shipped upon the Stover
+Canal and despatched down the estuary of Teign to Teignmouth, whence
+larger vessels bore it away to London for its final purpose.
+
+It came to supersede that bridge of houses familiar in the old pictures,
+the bridge that was a street; the bridge that in its turn had taken the
+place of older bridges built with wood: those mediaeval structures that
+perished each in turn by flood or fire.
+
+It was in 1756 that the Corporation of London obtained an order to
+rebuild London Bridge; but things must have moved slowly, for not until
+fifty years later was the announcement made of a new bridge to pass from
+Bankside, Southwark, to Queen Street, Cheapside. The public was invited
+to invest in the enterprise, and doubtless proved willing enough to do
+so. The ancient structure, long a danger to the navigation of the river,
+vanished, and in 1825, with great pomp and ceremony, the
+foundation-stone of the "New London Bridge" sank to its place. A recent
+writer in _The Academy_ has given a graphic picture of the event, and
+described the immense significance attached to the occasion. From the
+earliest dawn of that June morning, London flocked to waterside and
+thronged each point of vantage. Before noon the roofs of Fishmongers'
+Hall, of St. Saviour's Church, and every building that offered a glimpse
+of the ceremony were crowded; the river was alive with craft of all
+descriptions; the cofferdam for the erection of the first pier served
+the purpose of a private enclosure, where notable folk sat in four tiers
+of galleries under flags and awnings.
+
+At four o'clock, by which time the great company must have been weary of
+waiting, two six-pounder guns at the Old Swan Stairs announced the
+approach of the Civic and State authorities. The City Marshal, the
+Bargemasters, the Watermen, the members of the Royal Society, the
+Goldsmiths, the Under-Sheriffs, the Lord Mayor and the Duke of York
+appeared.
+
+"His Lordship, who was in full robes," so says an eye-witness of the
+event, "offered the chair to his Royal Highness, which was positively
+declined on his part. The Mayor, therefore, seated himself; the Lady
+Mayoress, with her daughters in elegant dresses, sat near his Lordship,
+accompanied by two fine-looking, intelligent boys, her sons; near them
+were the two lovely daughters of Lord Suffolk, and many other
+fashionable ladies."
+
+Then followed the ceremony. Coins in a cut-glass bottle were placed
+beneath a copper plate, and upon them descended a mighty block of
+Dartmoor granite. "The City sword and mace were placed upon it
+crossways, the foundation of the new bridge was declared to be laid, the
+music struck up 'God save the King,' and three times three excessive
+cheers broke forth from the company, the guns of the Honourable
+Artillery Company on the Old Swan Wharf fired a salute, and every face
+wore smiles of gratulation. Three cheers were afterwards given for the
+Duke of York, three for Old England, and three for the architect, Mr.
+Rennie."
+
+Then did a journalist with imagination dance a hornpipe upon the
+foundation-stone--for England would not take its pleasure sadly on that
+great day--and subsequently many ladies stood upon it, and "departed
+with the satisfaction of being enabled to relate an achievement
+honourable to their feelings!"
+
+And still the noble bridge remains, though the delicate feet that rested
+on its foundation-stone have all tripped to the shades. The bridge
+remains, and its five simple spans--the central one of a hundred and
+fifty-two feet--make a startling contrast with the nineteen little
+arches and huge pedestals of the ancient structure. New London Bridge
+is more than a thousand feet long; its width is fifty-six feet; its
+height, above low water, sixty feet. The central piers are twenty-four
+feet thick, and the voussoirs of the central arch four feet nine inches
+deep at the crown and nine feet at the springing. The foundations lie
+twenty-nine feet, six inches beneath low water; the exterior stones are
+all of granite; while the interior mass of the fabric came half from
+Bramley Fall and half from Derbyshire.
+
+More than seven years did London Bridge take a-building, and it was
+opened in 1831. The total costs were something under a million and a
+half of money--less than is needed for a modern battleship.
+
+And already, before it is one hundred years old, there comes a cry that
+London's heart finds this great artery too small for the stream of life
+that flows for ever upon it. One may hope, however, that when the
+necessity arrives, this notable bridge will not be spoiled, but another
+created hard by, if needs must, to fulfil the demands of traffic.
+Perhaps a second tunnel may solve the problem, since metropolitan man is
+turning so rapidly into a mole.
+
+From quarry to bridge is a far cry, yet he who has seen both may dream
+sometimes among the dripping ferns, silent cliff-faces and unruffled
+pools, of the city's roar and riot and the ceaseless thunder of man's
+march from dawn till even; while there--in the full throb and hurtle of
+London town, swept this way and that amid the multitudes that traverse
+Thames--it is pleasant to glimpse, through the reek and storm, the
+cradle of this city-stained granite, lying silent at peace in the
+far-away West Country.
+
+
+
+
+BAGTOR
+
+[Illustration: BAGTOR.]
+
+
+From the little southern salient of Bagtor at Dartmoor edge, there falls
+a slope to the "in country" beneath. Thereon Bagtor woods extend in many
+a shining plane--from wind-swept hill-crowns of beech and fir, to
+dingles and snug coombs in the valley bottom a thousand feet beneath.
+
+On a summer day one loiters in the dappled wood, for here is welcome
+shade after miles of hot sunshine on the heather above. Music of water
+splashes pleasantly through the trees, where a streamlet falls from step
+to step; the last of the bluebells still linger by the way, and above
+them great beech-boles rise, all chequered with sun splashes. On the
+earth dead leaves make a russet warmth, brighter by contrast with the
+young green round about, and brilliant where sunlight winnows through.
+There, in the direct beam, flash little flies, which hang suspended upon
+the light like golden beads; while through the glades, young fern is
+spread for pleasant resting-places. Pigeons murmur aloft unseen, and
+many a grey-bird and black-bird sing beside their hidden homes.
+
+At last the woodlands make an end, old orchards spread in a clearing,
+and the sun, now turning west, has left the apple trees, so that their
+blossom hangs cool and shaded on the boughs. Behind--a background for
+the orchard--there rise the walls of an ancient house, weathered and
+worn--a mass of picturesque gables and tar-pitched roofs with red-brick
+chimneys ascending above them. No great dignity or style marks this
+dwelling. It is a thing of patches and additions. Here the sun still
+burns radiantly, makes the roof golden, and flashes on the snow-white
+"fan-tails" that strut up and down upon it.
+
+Great Scotch firs tower to the south, and the light burns redly in their
+boughs against the blue sky above them. A farmhouse nestles beside the
+old mansion under a roof of ancient thatch, that falls low over the
+dawn-facing front, and makes ragged eyelashes for the little windows.
+The face of the farm is nearly hidden in green things, and a colour note
+of mauve dominates the foliage where wistaria showers. There are
+climbing roses too, a Japanese quince, and wallflowers and columbines in
+the garden plot that subtends the dwelling. Mossy walls enclose the
+garden, and beneath them spreads the farmyard--a dust-dry place to-day
+wherein a litter of black piglets gambol round their mother. Poultry
+cluck and scratch everywhere, and a company of red calves cluster
+together in one corner. A ploughman brings in his horses. From a byre
+comes the purr of milk falling into a pail.
+
+On still evenings bell music trickles up to this holt of ancient peace
+from a church tower three miles away; for we stand in the parish of
+Ilsington on the shoulder of Dartmoor, and the home of the silver
+"fan-tails" is Bagtor House--a spot sanctified to all book-lovers. Here,
+a very mighty personage first saw the light and began his pilgrimage; at
+Bagtor was John Ford born, the first great decadent of English letters,
+the tragedian whose sombre works belong to the sunset time of the
+spacious days.
+
+In April of 1586 the infant John received baptism at Ilsington church;
+while, sixteen years later, he was apprenticed to his profession and
+became a member of the Middle Temple. At eighteen John Ford, who wrote
+out of his own desire and under an artist's compulsion only, first
+tempted fortune; and over his earliest effort, _Fame's Memorial_, a veil
+may be drawn; while of subsequent collaborations with Webster and
+Decker, part perished unprinted and Mr. Warburton's cook "used up" his
+comedies. Probably they are no great loss, for a master with less sense
+of humour never lived. But _The Witch of Edmonton_ in Swinburne's
+judgment embodies much of Ford's best, and his greatest plays all
+endure.
+
+The man who wrote _The Lover's Melancholy_, _'Tis Pity She's a Whore_,
+_The Broken Heart_ and _Love's Sacrifice_ was born in this sylvan scene
+and his cradle rocked to the murmur of wood doves. True he vanished
+early from Devonshire, and though uncertain tradition declares his
+return, asserting that, while still in prime and vigour, he laid by his
+gown and pen and came back to Bagtor, to end his days where he was born,
+and mellow his stormy heart before he died, no proof that he did so
+exists. His life's history has been obliterated and contemporary records
+of him have yet to appear.
+
+As an artist he must surely have loved horror for horror's sake, and,
+too often, our terror arouses not that pity to which tragedy should lift
+man's heart, but rather generates disgust before his extraordinary plots
+and the unattractive and inhuman characters which unravel them. One
+salutes the intellectual power of him, but merely shudders, without
+being enchained or uplifted by the nature of his themes. It has been
+well said of Ford that he "abhorred vice and admired virtue; but
+ordinary vice or modern virtue were to him as light wine to a dram
+drinker.... Passion must be incestuous or adulterous; grief must be
+something more than martyrdom, before he could make them big enough to
+be seen."
+
+There is a little of Michaelangelo about Ford--something excruciating,
+tortured. The tormented marble of the one is reflected in the wracked
+and writhing characters of the other; but whether Ford felt for the
+sorrow of earth as the Florentine; whether he shared that mightier man's
+fiery patriotism, enthusiasm of humanity and tragic griefs before the
+suffering of mankind, we know not. One picture we have of him from old
+time, and it offers a gloomy, aloof figure, little caring to win
+friendship, or court understanding from his fellows:--
+
+    Deep in a dump John Ford was alone got,
+    With folded arms and melancholy hat.
+
+So depicted the gloomy artist might serve for tragedy's self--arms
+crossed, brows drawn, eyes darkling under the broad-brimmed beaver, with
+the plotter's night-black cloak swept round his person. Or to a vision
+of Michaelangelo's "Il Penseroso" we may exalt the poet, and see him in
+that solemn and stately stone, finally at peace, his last word written
+and the finger of silence upon his gloomy lips.
+
+Hazlitt finds John Ford finical and fastidious. He certainly is so, and
+one often wonders how this mind and pen should have welcomed such
+appalling subjects. He plays with edged tools and too well knows the
+use of poisoned weapons, says Hazlitt; and the criticism is just in the
+opinion of those who, with him, account it an artist's glory that he
+shall not tamper with foul and "unfair" subjects, or sink his genius to
+the kennel and gutter. That, however, is the old-world, vanished
+attitude, for artists recognise no "unfair" subjects to-day.
+
+Indeed, Ford can be not seldom beautiful and tender and touched to
+emotion of pity; but by the time of Charles, the golden galaxies were
+gone; their forces were spent; their inspiration had perished; England,
+merry no more, began to shiver in the shadow of coming puritan eclipse;
+and that twilight seems to have cast by anticipation its penumbra about
+Ford.
+
+There is in him little of the rollicking, superficial coarseness of the
+Elizabethans; the stain is in web and woof. His great moments are few;
+he is mostly ferocious, or absurdly sentimental, and one confesses that
+the bulk of his best work, judged against the highest of ancient or
+modern tragedy, rings feebly with a note of too transparent artifice. He
+is moved by intellectual interest rather than creative inspiration;
+there is far more brain than heart in his writings.
+
+Perhaps he knew it and convinced himself, while still at the noon of
+intelligence, that he was no creator. Perhaps he abandoned art, through
+failure to satisfy his own ideals. At any rate it would seem that he
+stopped writing at a time when most men have still much to give.
+
+One would like at least to believe that he found in his birthplace the
+distinguished privacy he desired and an abode of physical and mental
+peace. He may, indeed, have come home again to Devon when his work was
+ended; he may have passed the uncertain residue of life in seclusion
+with wife and family at this estate of his ancestors; his dust may lie
+unhonoured and unrecorded at Ilsington, as Herrick's amid the green
+graves not far distant at Dean Prior.
+
+It is all guesswork, and the truth of John Ford's life, as of his death,
+may be forever hidden. One sees him a notable, silent, subtle man, prone
+to pessimism as a gift of heredity--a man disappointed in his
+achievement, soured by inner criticism and comparison with those who
+were greater than he.
+
+So, weary of cities and the company of wits and poets, he came back to
+the country, that he might heal his disappointments and soothe his
+pains. His life, to the unseeing eyes around him, doubtless loomed
+prosperous and complete; to himself, perchance, all was dust and ashes
+of thwarted ambition. Again he roamed the woods where he had learned to
+walk; won to the love of nature; underwent the thousand new experiences
+and fancied discoveries of a townsman fresh in the country; and, through
+these channels, came to contentment and sunshine of mind, bright enough
+to pierce the night of his thoughts and sweeten the dark currents of his
+imagination. It may be so.
+
+
+
+
+OKEHAMPTON CASTLE
+
+[Illustration: OKEHAMPTON CASTLE.]
+
+
+A high wind roared over the tree-tops and sent the leaf
+flying--blood-red from the cherry, russet from the oak, and yellow from
+the elm. Rain and sunshine followed swiftly upon each other, and the
+storms hurtled over the forest, hissed in the river below and took fire
+through their falling sheets, as the November sun scattered the
+rear-guard of the rain and the cloud purple broke to blue. A great wind
+struck the larches, where they misted in fading brightness against the
+inner gloom of the woods, and at each buffet, their needles were
+scattered like golden smoke. Only the ash trees had lost all their
+leaves, for a starry sparkle of foliage still clung to every other
+deciduous thing. The low light, striking upon a knoll and falling on
+dripping surfaces of stone and tree trunk, made a mighty flash and
+glitter of it, so that the trees and the scattered masonry, that
+ascended in crooked crags above their highest boughs, were lighted with
+rare colour and blazed against the cloud masses now lumbering
+storm-laden from the West.
+
+The mediaeval ruin, that these woods had almost concealed in summer, now
+loomed amid them well defined. Viewed from aloft the ground plan of the
+castle might be distinctly traced, and it needed no great knowledge to
+follow the architectural design of it. The sockets of the pillars that
+sprang to a groined entrance still remained, and within, to right and
+left of the courtyard, there towered the roofless walls of a state
+chamber, or banqueting hall, on the one hand, a chapel, oratory and
+guard-room on the other. The chapel had a piscina in the southern wall;
+the main hall was remarkable for its mighty chimney. Without, the ruins
+of the kitchens were revealed, and they embraced an oven large enough to
+bake bread for a village. Round about there gaped the foundations of
+other apartments, and opened deep eyelet windows in the thickness of the
+walls. The mass was so linked up and knit together that of old it must
+have presented one great congeries of chambers fortified by a circlet of
+masonry; but now the keep towered on a separate hillock to the
+south-west of the ruin, and stood alone. It faced foursquare, dominated
+the valley, and presented a front impregnable to all approach.
+
+This is the keep that Turner drew, and set behind it a sky of mottled
+white and azure specially beloved by Ruskin; but the wizard took large
+liberties with his subject, flung up his castle on a lofty scarp, and
+from his vantage point at stream-side beneath, suggested a nobler and a
+mightier ruin than in reality exists. One may suppose that steps or
+secret passages communicated with the keep, and that in Tudor times no
+trees sprang to smother the little hill and obscure the views of the
+distant approaches--from Dartmoor above and the valleys beneath. Now
+they throng close, where oak and ash cling to the sides of the hillock
+and circle the stones that tower to ragged turrets in their midst.
+
+Far below bright Okement loops the mount with a brown girdle of foaming
+waters that threads the meadows; and beyond, now dark, now wanly
+streaked with sunshine, ascends Dartmoor to her border heights of Yes
+Tor and High Willhayes. Westerly the land climbs again and the last
+fires of autumn flicker over a forest.
+
+I saw the place happily between wild storms, at a moment when the walls,
+warmed by a shaft of sunlight, took on most delicious colour and,
+chiming with the gold of the flying leaves, towered bright as a dream
+upon the November blue.
+
+At the Conquest, Baldwin de Redvers received no fewer than one hundred
+and eighty-one manors in Devon alone, for William rewarded his strong
+men according to their strength. We may take it, therefore, that this
+Baldwin de Redvers, or Baldwin de Brionys, was a powerful lieutenant to
+the Conqueror--a man of his hands and stout enough to hold the West
+Country for his master. From his new possessions the Baron chose
+Ochementone[1] for his perch; indeed, he may be said to have created the
+township. With military eye he marked a little spur of the hills that
+commanded the passes of the Moor and the highway to Cornwall and the
+Severn Sea; and there built his stronghold,--the sole castle in Devon
+named in Domesday. But of this edifice no stone now stands upon another.
+It has vanished into the night of time past, and its squat, square,
+Norman keep scowls down upon the valleys no more.
+
+[1] "Okehampton" is a word which has no historic or philological excuse.
+
+The present ruins belong to the Perpendicular period of later
+centuries, and until a recent date the second castle threatened swiftly
+to pass after the first; but a new lease of life has lately been given
+to these fragments; they have been cleaned and excavated, the conquering
+ivy has been stripped from their walls, and a certain measure of work
+accomplished to weld and strengthen the crumbling masonry. Thus a
+lengthened existence has been assured to the castle. "Time, which
+antiquates antiquities," is challenged, and will need reinforcement of
+many years wherein again to lift his scaling ladders of ivy, loose his
+lightnings from the cloud, and marshal his fighting legions of rain and
+tempest, frost and snow.
+
+
+
+
+THE GORGE
+
+[Illustration: THE GORGE.]
+
+
+Reflection swiftly reveals the significance of a river gorge, for it is
+upon such a point that the interest of early man is seen to centre. The
+shallow, too, attracts him, though its value varies; it must ever be a
+doubtful thing, because the shallow depends upon the moods of a river,
+and a ford is not always fordable. But to the gorge no flood can reach.
+There the river's banks are highest, the aperture between them most
+trifling; there man from olden time has found the obvious place of
+crossing and thrown his permanent bridge to span the waterway. At a
+gorge is the natural point of passage, and Pontifex, the bridge-builder,
+seeking that site, bends road to river where his work may be most easily
+performed, most securely founded. But while the bridge, its arch
+springing from the live rock, is safe enough, the waters beneath are
+like to be dangerous, and if a river is navigable at all, at her gorges,
+where the restricted volume races and deepens, do the greatest dangers
+lie. In Italy this fact gave birth to a tutelary genius, or shadowy
+saint, whose special care was the raft-men of Arno and other rivers.
+Their dangerous business took these _foderatore_ amid strange hazards,
+and one may imagine them on semi-submerged timbers, swirling and
+crashing over many a rocky rapid, in the throats of the hills, where
+twilight homed and death was ever ready to snatch them from return to
+smooth waters and sunshine. So a new guardian arose to meet these
+perils, and the boldest navigator lifted his thoughts to Heaven and
+commended his soul to the keeping of San Gorgone.
+
+Sublimity haunts these places; be they great as the Grand Canyon of
+Arizona and the mountain rifts of Italy and France, or trifling as this
+dimple on Devon's face of which I tell to-day, they reveal similar
+characteristics and alike challenge the mind of the intelligent being
+who may enter them.
+
+Here, under the roof of Devon, through the measures that press up to the
+Dartmoor granite and are changed by the vanished heat thereof, a little
+Dartmoor stream, in her age-long battle with earth, has cut a right
+gorge, and so rendered herself immortal. There came a region in her
+downward progress when she found barriers of stone uplifted between her
+and her goal; whereupon, without avoiding the encounter, she cast
+herself boldly upon the work and set out to cleave and to carve. Now
+this glyptic business, begun long before the first palaeolithic man trod
+earth, is far advanced; the river has sunk a gulley of near two hundred
+feet through the solid rock, and still pursues her way in the nether
+darkness, gnawing ceaselessly at the stone and leaving the marks of her
+earlier labours high up on either side of the present channel. There,
+written on the dark Devonian rock, is a record of erosion set down ages
+before human eye can have marked it; for fifty feet above the present
+bed are clean-scooped pot-holes, round and true, left by those
+prehistoric waters. But the sides of the gorge are mostly broken and
+sloping; and upon the shelves of it dwell trees that fling their
+branches together with amazing intricacies of foliage in summer-time and
+lace-like ramage in winter. Now bright sunshine flashes down the pillars
+of them and falls from ledge to ledge of each steep precipice; it
+brightens great ivy banks and illuminates a thousand ferns, that stud
+each little separate knoll in the great declivities, or loll from clefts
+and crannies to break the purple shadows with their fronds. The buckler
+and the shield fern leap spritely where there is most light; the
+polypody loves the limb of the oak; the hart's tongue haunts the
+coolest, darkest crevices and hides the beauty of silvery mosses and
+filmy ferns under cover of each crinkled leaf. And secret waters twinkle
+out by many a hidden channel to them, bedewing their foliage with grey
+moisture.
+
+On a cloudy day night never departs from the deepest caverns of this
+gorge, and only the foam-light reveals each polished rib and buttress.
+The air is full of mist from a waterfall that thunders through the
+darkness, and chance of season and weather seldom permit the westering
+sun to thrust a red-gold shaft into the gloom. But that rare moment is
+worth pilgrimage, for then the place awakens and a thousand magic
+passages of brightness pierce the gorge to reveal its secrets. In such
+moments shall be seen the glittering concavities, the fair pillars and
+arches carved by the water, and the hidden forms of delicate life that
+thrive upon them, dwelling in darkness and drinking of the foam. Most
+notable is a crimson fungus that clings to the dripping precipices like
+a robe, so that they seem made of polished bloodstone, and hint the
+horror of some tragedy in these loud shouting caves. Below the mass of
+the river, very dark under its creaming veil of foam, shouts and
+hastens; above, there slope upwards the cliff-masses to a mere ribbon of
+golden-green, high aloft where the trees admit rare flashes from the
+azure above them. Beech and ash spring horizontally from the precipices,
+and great must be the bedded strength of the roots that hold their
+trunks hanging there. With the dark forces of the gorge dragging them
+downward and the sunshine drawing them triumphantly up--between
+gravitation and light--they poise, destruction beneath and life
+beckoning from above. They nourish thus above their ultimate graves,
+since they, too, must fall at last and join those dead tree skeletons
+whose bones are glimmering amid the rocks below.
+
+Here light and darkness so cunningly blend that size is forgotten, as
+always happens before a thing inherently fine. The small gorge wrought
+of a little river grows great and bulks large to imagination. The
+soaring sides of it, the shadow-loving things beneath, the torture of
+the trees above, and the living water, busy as of yore in levelling its
+ancient bed to the sea, waken wonder at such conquest over these
+fire-baked rocks. The heart goes out to the river and takes pleasure to
+follow her from the darkness of her battle into the light again, where,
+flower-crowned, she emerges between green banks that shelve gently, hung
+with wood-rush and meadow-sweet, angelica and golden saxifrage. Here
+through a great canopy of translucent foliage shines the noon sunlight,
+celebrating peace. Into the river, where she spreads upon a smooth pool,
+and trout dart shadowy through the crystal, the brightness burns, until
+the stream bed sparkles with amber and agate and flashes up in sweet
+reflections beneath each brier and arched fern-frond bending at the
+brink.
+
+Nor does the rivulet lack correspondence with greater streams in its
+human relation; she is complete in every particular, for man has found
+her also; and dimly seen, amid the very tree-tops, where the gorge
+opens, and great rocks come kissing close, an arch of stone carries his
+little road from hamlet to hamlet.
+
+
+
+
+THE GLEN
+
+[Illustration: THE GLEN.]
+
+
+There is a glen above West Dart whence a lesser stream after brief
+journeying comes down to join the river. By many reaches, broken with
+little falls, the waters descend upon the glen from the Moor; but
+barriers of granite first confront them, and before the lands break up
+and hollow, a mass of boulders, piled in splendid disorder and crowned
+with willow and rowan, crosses the pathway of the torrent. Therefore the
+little river divides and leaps and tumbles foaming over the mossy
+granite, or creeps beneath the boulders by invisible ways. Into fingers
+and tresses the running waters dislimn, and then, that great obstacle
+passed, their hundred rillets run together again and go on their way
+with music. By a descent that becomes swiftly steeper, the burn falls
+upon fresh rocks, is led into fresh channels and broken to the right and
+left where mossy islets stand knee-deep in fern and bilberry. Here
+spring up the beginnings of the wood, for the glen is full of trees.
+Beech and alder, with scrub of dwarf willow at their feet, cluster on
+the islets and climb the deepening valley westward; but in the glen
+stand aged trees, and on the crest of the slope haggard spruce firs
+still fight for life and mark, in their twisted and decaying timbers and
+perishing boughs, the torment of the unsleeping wind. Great is the
+contrast between these stricken ruins with death in their high tops,
+and the sylva beneath sheltered by the granite hill. There beech and
+pine are prosperous and sleek compared with the unhappy, time-foundered
+wights above them; but if the spruces perish, they rule. The lesser
+things are at their feet and the sublimity of their struggle--their
+mournful but magnificent protest against destiny--makes one ignore the
+sequestered woodland, where there is neither battle nor victory, but
+comfortable, ignoble shelter and repose. The river kisses the feet of
+these happy nonentities; they make many a stately arch and pillar along
+the water; in spring the pigeon and the storm-thrush nest among their
+branches; and they gleam with newly-opened foliage and shower their
+silky shards upon the earth; in autumn they fling a harvest of sweet
+beech mast around their feet. The seed germinates and thousands of
+cotyledon leaves appear like fairy umbrellas, from the waste of the dead
+leaves. The larger number of these seedlings perish, but some survive to
+take their places in fulness of time.
+
+By falls and rapids, by flashing stickles and reaches of stillness, the
+little river sinks to the heart of the glen; but first there is a
+water-meadow under the hills where an old clapper-bridge flings its
+rough span from side to side. This is of ancient date and has been more
+than once restored against the ravages of flood since pack-horses
+tramped that way in Tudor times. Here the streamlet rests awhile before
+plunging down the steeps beyond and entering the true glen--a place of
+shelving banks and many trees.
+
+In summer the dingle is a golden-green vision of tender light that
+filters through the beeches. Here and there a sungleam, escaping the
+net of the leaf, wins down to fall on mossy boulder and bole, or plunge
+its shaft of brightness into a dark pool. Then the amber beam quivers
+through the crystal to paint each pebble at the bottom and reveal the
+dim, swift shades of the trout, that dart through it from darkness back
+to darkness again. In autumn the freshets come and the winds awaken
+until a storm of foliage hurtles through the glen, now pattering with
+shrill whispers from above and taking the water gently; now whirling in
+mad myriads, swirling and eddying, driven hither and thither by storm
+until they bank upon some hillock, find harbour among holes and the
+elbows of great roots, or plunge down into the turmoil of the stream.
+The ways of the falling leaf are manifold, and as the rock delays the
+river, so the trees, with trunk and bough, arrest the flying foliage,
+bar its hurrying volume and deflect its tide. In winter the glen is
+good, for then a man may escape the north wind here and, finding some
+snug holt among the river rocks, mark the beauty about him while snow
+begins to touch the tree-tops and the boughs are sighing. Then can be
+contrasted the purple masses of sodden leaves with the splendour of the
+mosses among which they lie; for now the minor vegetation gleams at
+this, its hour of prime. It sheets every bank in a silver-green fabric
+fretted with liquid jewels or ice diamonds; it builds plump knobs and
+cushions on the granite, and some of the mosses, now in fruit, brush
+their lustrous green with a wash of orange or crimson, where tiny
+filaments rise densely to bear the seed. Here, also, dwelling among
+them, flourishes that treasure of such secret nooks by stream-side, the
+filmy fern, with transparent green vesture pressed to the
+moisture-laden rocks.
+
+Man's handiwork is also manifested here; not only in the felled trees
+and the clapper-bridge, but uniquely and delightfully; for where the
+river quickens over a granite apron and hastens in a torrent of foam
+away, the rocks have tongues and speak. He who planted this grove and
+added beauty to a spot already beautiful, was followed by his son, who
+caused to be carved inscriptions on the boulders. You may trace them
+through the moss, or lichen, where the records, grown dim after nearly a
+hundred years, still stand. It was a minister of the Church who amused
+himself after this fashion; but in no religious spirit did he compose;
+and the scattered poetry has a pleasant, pagan ring about it proper to
+this haunt of Pan.
+
+Upon one great rock in the open, with its grey face to the south-west
+and its feet deeply bedded in grass and sand, you shall with care
+decipher these words:--
+
+    Sweet Poesy! fair Fancy's child!
+      Thy smiles imparadise the wild.
+
+Beside the boulder a willow stands, its finials budding with silver;
+upon the north-western face of the stone is another inscription whose
+legend startles a wayfarer on beholding the bulk of the huge mass. "This
+stone was removed by a flood 17--."
+
+On the islets and by the pathway below, sharp eyes may discover other
+inscribed stones, and upon one island, which the bygone poet called "The
+Isle of Mona," there still exist inscriptions in "Bardic characters."
+These he derived from the _Celtic Researches_ of Davies. Furnished with
+the English letters corresponding to these symbols, one may, if
+sufficiently curious, translate each distich as one finds it. Elsewhere,
+beside the glen path, a sharp-eyed, little lover of Nature, tore the
+coat of moss from another phrase that beat us both as we hunted through
+the early dusk:--
+
+    Ye Naiads! venera
+
+This was the complete passage, and we puzzled not a little to solve its
+meaning. On dipping into the past, however, I discovered that the
+inscription was intended to have read as follows:--
+
+    Ye Naiads! venerate the swain
+      Who joined the Dryads to your train.
+
+The rhyme was designed to honour the poet's father, who set the forest
+here; but accident must have stayed the stone-cutter's hand and left the
+distich incomplete.
+
+And now a sudden flash of red aloft above the tree-tops told that the
+sun was setting. Night thickened quickly, though the lamp of a great red
+snow-cloud still hung above the glen long after I had left it. Beneath,
+the mass of the beech wood took on wonderful colour and the streamlet,
+emerging into meadows, flashed back the last glow of the sky.
+
+
+
+
+A DEVON CROSS
+
+[Illustration: A DEVON CROSS.]
+
+
+There are two orders of ancient human monuments on Dartmoor--the
+prehistoric evidences of man's earliest occupation and the mediaeval
+remains that date from Tudor times, or earlier. The Neolith has left his
+cairns and pounds and hut circles, where once his lodges clustered upon
+the hills. The other memorials are of a different character and chiefly
+mark the time of the stannators, when alluvial tin abounded and the Moor
+supported a larger population than it does to-day. Ruins of the smelting
+houses and the piled debris of old tin-streaming works may be seen on
+every hand, and the moulds into which molten tin was poured still lie in
+hollows and ruins half hidden by the herbage. Here also, scattered
+irregularly, the Christian symbol occurs, on wild heaths and lonely
+hillsides, to mark some sacred place, indicate an ancient path, or guide
+the wayfaring monk and friar of old on their journey by the Abbot's Way.
+
+Of these the most notable is that venerable fragment known as Siward's
+Cross--a place of pilgrimage these many years.
+
+Now, on this day of March, snow-clouds swept the desert intermittently
+with their grey veils and often blotted every landmark. At such times
+one sought the little hillocks thrown up by vanished men and hid in some
+hollow of the tin-streamers' digging to escape the pelt of the snow and
+avoid the buffet of the squall that brought it. Then the sun broke up
+the welter of hurrying grey and for a time the wind lulled and the brief
+white shroud of the snow melted, save where it had banked against some
+obstacle.
+
+The lonely hillock where stands Siward's Cross, or "Nun's Cross," as
+Moormen call it, lies at a point a little above the western end of Fox
+Tor Mire. The land slopes gently to it and from it; the great hills roll
+round about. To the east a far distance opens very blue after the last
+snow has fallen; to the south tower the featureless ridges of Cator's
+Beam with the twin turrets of Fox Tor on their proper mount beneath
+them. The beginnings of the famous mire are at hand--a region of
+shattered peat-hags and morasses--where, torn to pieces, the earth gapes
+in ruins and a thousand watercourses riddle it. All is dark and sere at
+this season, for the dead grasses make the peat blacker by contrast. It
+is a chaos of rent and riven earth ploughed and tunnelled by bogs and
+waterways; while beyond this savage wilderness the planes of the hills
+wind round in a semicircle and hem the cradle of the great marshes below
+with firm ground and good "strolls" for cattle, when spring shall send
+them in their thousands to the grazing lands of the Moor again.
+
+The sky shone blue by the time I reached the old cross and weak sunlight
+brightened its familiar face. The relic stands seven feet high, and now
+it held a vanishing patch of snow on each stumpy arm. Its weathered
+front had made a home for flat and clinging lichens, grey as the granite
+for the most part, yet warming to a pale gold sometimes. Once the cross
+was broken and thrown in two pieces on the heath; but the wall-builders
+spared it, for the monument had long been famous. Antiquarian interest
+existed for the old relic, and it was mended with clamps of iron, and
+lifted upon a boulder to occupy again its ancient site.
+
+For many a year experts puzzled to learn the meaning of the inscriptions
+upon its face, and various conjectures concerning them had their day;
+but it was left for our first Dartmoor authority, William Crossing, who
+has said the last word on these remains, to decipher the worn
+inscription and indicate its significance. He finds the word "Siward,"
+or "Syward," on the eastern side, and the word "Boc-lond," for
+"Buckland," on the other, set in two lines under the incised cross that
+distinguishes the western face of the monument.
+
+"Siward's Cross" is mentioned in the Perambulation of 1240. "It is
+named," says Mr. Crossing, "in a deed of Amicia, Countess of Devon,
+confirming the grant of certain lands for building and supporting the
+Abbey of Buckland, among which were the manors of Buckland, Bickleigh
+and Walkhampton. The latter manor abuts on Dartmoor Forest, and the
+boundary line, which Siward's Cross marks at one of the points, is drawn
+from Mistor to the Plym. The cross, therefore, in addition to being
+considered a forest boundary mark, also became one to the lands of
+Buckland Abbey, and I am convinced that the letters on it which have
+been so variously interpreted simply represent the word 'Bocland.' The
+name, as already stated, is engraved on the western face of the
+cross--the side on which the monks' possessions lay."
+
+Elsewhere he observes that Siward's Cross, "standing as it does on the
+line of the Abbot's Way, would seem not improbably to have been set up
+by the monks of Tavistock as a mark to point out the direction of the
+track across the Moor; and were it not for the fact that it has been
+supposed to have obtained its name from Siward, Earl of Northumberland,
+who, it is said, held property near this part of the Moor in the
+Confessor's reign, I should have no hesitation in believing such to be
+the case."
+
+No matter who first lifted it, still it stands--the largest cross on
+Dartmoor--like a sentinel to guard the path that extended between the
+religious houses of Plympton, Buckland and Tavistock. And other crosses
+there are beyond the Mire, where an old road descended over Ter Hill.
+But the Abbot's Way is tramped no more, and the princes of the Church,
+with their men-at-arms and their mules and pack-horses, have passed into
+forgotten time. Few now but the antiquary and holiday-maker wander to
+Siward's Cross; or the fox-hunter gallops past it; or the folk, when
+they tramp to the heights for purple harvest of "hurts" in summer-time.
+The stone that won the blessings of pious men, only comforts a heifer
+to-day; she rubs her side against it and leaves a strand of her red hair
+caught in the lichens.
+
+The snow began to fall more heavily and the wind increased. Therefore I
+turned north and left that local sanctity from olden time, well pleased
+to have seen it once again in the stern theatre of winter. It soon
+shrank to a grey smudge on the waste; then snow-wreaths whirled their
+arms about it and the emblem vanished.
+
+
+
+
+COOMBE
+
+[Illustration: COOMBE.]
+
+
+Life comes laden still with good days that whisper of romance, when in
+some haunt of old legend, our feet loiter for a little before we pass
+forward again. I indeed seek these places, and confess an incurable
+affection for romance in my thoughts if not my deeds. I would not banish
+her from art, or life; and though most artists of to-day will have none
+of her, spurn romantic and classic alike, and take only realism to their
+bosoms; yet who shall declare that realism is the last word, or that
+reality belongs to her drab categories alone?
+
+"There is no 'reality' for us--nor for you either, ye sober ones, and we
+are far from being so alien to one another as ye suppose, and perhaps
+our goodwill to get beyond drunkenness is just as respectable as your
+belief that ye are altogether _incapable_ of drunkenness."
+
+A return to romance most surely awaits literature, when our artists have
+digested the new conditions and discovered the magic and mystery that
+belong to newly created things--whether Nature or her human child has
+made them; but for the moment, those changes that to-day build
+revolution, stone on stone, demand great seers to record the romantic
+splendour of their promise, sing justly of all that science is doing,
+write the epic of our widening view and show man leading the lightning
+chained in his latest triumph. For us, who cannot measure such visions,
+there remains Nature--the incurable romantic--who retains her early
+methods, loves the sword better than the pruning-hook, and still
+sometimes strikes jealously at her sophisticated child, who has learned
+to substitute a thousand wants for the simple needs that she could
+gratify.
+
+At Coombe, on the coast of North Cornwall, there yet lies a nest of old
+romance, wherein move, for dream-loving folk, the shadows of an old-time
+tale. Nature reigns unchanged in the valley and her processions and
+pageants keep their punctual time and place; but once a story-teller
+came hither, and the direct, genial art of a brave spirit found
+inspiration here. From this secluded theatre sprang _Westward Ho!_ and
+none denies willing tribute to him who made that book.
+
+Seen on this stormy December day with a north-wester raging off the sea
+and the wind turning the forest music to "a hurricane of harps," Coombe
+Valley lives with music and movement. Far away in the gap eastward rises
+a blue mound with Kilkhampton Church-tower perched thereon, and thence,
+by winding woods, the way opens to the historic mill. Full of tender
+colour are the tree-clad hills--a robe of grey and amber and amethyst,
+jewelled here and there, where the last of the leaves still hang.
+Wind-beaten oak and larch, beech and ash twine their arms together and
+make a great commotion where the woven texture of their boughs is
+swaying and bending. Their yield and swing challenge the grey daylight,
+and it plays upon them and flings a tracery of swift brightness over the
+forest. The light is never still, but trembles upon the transparent
+woods, so that every movement of their great mass wins an answering
+movement from the illumination that reveals them. Beneath, under the
+tremulous curtain and visible through its throbbing, lies the earth's
+bosom, all brown with fallen leaves. It swells firm and solid under
+restless branch and bough, and listens to the great song of the trees.
+Sometimes a sunburst from the sky touches the woodland, and the ramage
+aloft sparkles like a gauze of silver over the russet and gold beneath.
+
+In the heart of the valley there runs a river, and, freed from her work,
+the mill-stream leaps to join it. The mill-wheel thunders, as it did
+when little Rose Salterne set stout hearts beating and dreamed dreams,
+wherein no sorrow homed or horror whispered. But time has not forgotten
+Coombe Mill, and, to one who may love flowers, the evidence of progress
+chiefly lies among them. There is a garden here and many a plant, that
+had not yet faced the buffets of an English winter when Kingsley's
+heroine tended her clove-pinks and violets, now thrives contented in
+this little garth.
+
+Beside the mill-pond, flogged by the December storm, Kaffir lilies wave
+their crimson and the red fuchsia flourishes. A bush of golden eleagnus
+is happy, and a shrubby speedwell thrives beside it; honeysuckles climb
+to the thatch of the white-washed homestead; a rambler rose hangs out
+its last blossoms; and a yellow jasmine also blooms upon the wall.
+Marigolds and lavender and blue periwinkles trail together in a bright
+wreath against the darkness of the water-wheel; there are stocks and
+Michaelmas daisies, too, with the silver discs of honesty and the fading
+green of tamarisk.
+
+Many suchlike things flourish in this cradle of low hills, for winter is
+a light matter here, and great cold never comes to them. They push
+forth and creep into the lanes and hedges; they find the water-meadows
+and love the shelter of the apple trees and the brink of the stream.
+
+Beside the mill there towers a great ivy-tod in fruit, and rises the
+weathered mill-house, stoutly built to bear the strain within. Once
+granite mill-wheels ground the corn, but now their day is over and they
+repose, flower crowned, in the hedges outside. The eternal splashing of
+water has painted a dark stain here, and ferns have found foothold. One
+great hart's tongue lolls fifty wet green leaves out from the gloom of
+the wheel-chamber.
+
+All is movement and bustle; the mill-stream races away to the river, and
+the river to the sea. The tree-tops bend and cry; the clouds tell of the
+gale overhead, now thinning to let the sunshine out, now darkening under
+a sudden squall and dropping a hurtle of hail.
+
+From the mill-pool to the west opened another vision of meadows with a
+little grey bridge in the midst of them. Hither winds the stream, trout
+in every hover, and the brown hills rise on either side, barren and
+storm-beaten. Then, at the mouth of the land between them, a great
+welter of white foam fills the gap, for the storm has beaten the sea
+mad, and the roar of it ascends in unbroken thunder over the meadows.
+Behind the meeting-place of land and ocean, there roll the lashed and
+stricken seas, all dim and grey; and their herds are brightened with
+sunshine or darkened by cloud, as the wind heaves them to shore. But
+there is no horizon from which we can trace them. They emerge wildly out
+of the flying scud of cloud that presses down upon the waters.
+
+
+
+
+OLD DELABOLE
+
+[Illustration: OLD DELABOLE.]
+
+
+Where low and treeless hills roll out to the cliffs, and the gulls cry
+their sea message over farms and fields, a mighty mouth opens upon the
+midst of the land and gapes five hundred feet into the earth. In shape
+of a crater it yawns, and its many-coloured cliffs slope from the
+surface inwards. The great cup is chased and jewelled. Round it run many
+galleries, some deserted, some alive with workers. Like threads of light
+they circle it, now opening upon the sides of the rounded cliffs, now
+suspended in air under perpendicular precipices. In the midst is the
+quarter-mile incline that descends to the heart of the cup and connects
+the works above with the works below; and elsewhere are other gentle
+acclivities, where moraines of fallen stone ooze out in great cones
+beneath the cliffs. Under them stand square black objects, dwarfed to
+the size of match-boxes, which wrestle with this huge accumulation of
+over-burden. Steam puffs from the machines; they thrust their scoops
+into the fallen mass; at each dig they pick up a ton and a half of
+rubbish and then deposit it in a trolley that waits for the load hard
+by. A network of tram-lines branches every way in the bottom of the cup,
+and extends its fingers to the points of attack; and where they end--at
+smudges of silver-grey scattered about the bottom of the quarry--there
+creep little atoms, like mites on a cheese.
+
+Centuries have bedecked and adorned the sides of this stupendous pit;
+and while naked sheets and planes of colour, the work of recent years,
+still gleam starkly, all innocent of blade and leaf, elsewhere in
+deserted galleries and among cliff-faces torn bare by vanished
+generations of men, green things have made their home and flourished
+with luxuriance, to the eternal drip of surface water. Ferns and
+foxgloves and a thousand lesser plants thrive in niches and crevices of
+the stone; and there is a splendid passage of flame, where the mimulus
+has found its way by some rivulet into the quarry, and sheets a
+precipice with gold.
+
+By steps and scarps the sides fall, narrowing always to the bottom; but
+the cliff planes are huge enough for sunshine and shadow to paint
+wonderful pictures upon them and find the colours--the olive and blue
+and mossy green, or the great splashes and patches of rose and russet
+that make harmony there. They melt together brokenly; and sometimes they
+are fretted with darkness and spotted with caverns, or mottled and
+zigzagged by rusty percolations of iron.
+
+One noble cliff falls sheer five hundred feet to a wilderness of rock,
+and across its huge front there hang aerial threads, like gossamers,
+while at its crown black wheels and chimneys tower into the sky. Below,
+upon the bluff of a crag, there turns a wheel, and a great pump, with
+intermittent jolt and grunt, sucks the water from the bottom of the
+quarry and sends it to tanks up aloft. This machine, with its network of
+arms and wheels, hangs very black on the cliff-side, and a note of black
+is also carried into the midst of the grey and rosy cliff-faces by
+little wheels that hang from the gossamers and tiny threads depending
+from them. They drop to the mites in the silver-grey cheese beneath, and
+from time to time masses and wedges of nearly two tons weight are
+hoisted upward and float through the air to the surface, like
+thistle-down.
+
+The quarry is full of noises--the clank of the pumps, the rattle of the
+trucks, the hiss of pneumatic and steam drills, the clink of tampers and
+the rumble and rattle of the great rocks dislodged by crowbars from the
+cliffs. Men shout, too, and their voices are as the drone of little
+gnats; but sometimes, at the hour of blasting, an immense volume of
+sound is liberated, and the thunder of the explosion crashes round and
+round the cup and wakes a war of echoes thrown from cliff to cliff.
+
+Once there were dwellings within the cup; but the needs of the quarry
+caused their destruction, and now but two cottages remain. The ragged
+cliff-edges creep towards them, and they will soon vanish, after
+standing for a hundred years.
+
+Everywhere the precious stone, now silver-green, now silver-grey, is
+being dragged up the great incline, or wafted through air to the workers
+above; and once aloft, another army of men and boys set to work upon it
+and split and hack and chop and square it into usefulness. On all sides
+the midgets are burrowing below and wrestling with the stone above;
+thousands of tons leave the works weekly, and yet such is the immensity
+of the mass, that the sides of the quarry seem hardly changed from year
+to year. For more than three hundred and fifty years has man delved at
+Old Delabole. Elizabethans worked its rare slate; and since their time,
+labouring ceaselessly, we have scratched out this stupendous hole and
+covered our habitations therefrom, through the length and breadth of
+the United Kingdom. Cathedrals and cottages alike send to Delabole for
+their slates; there are extant buildings with roofs two hundred years
+old, that show no crack or flaw; while more ancient than the stones that
+cover man's home must be those that mark his grave, and Delabole slates
+in churchyards, or on church walls, might doubtless be found dating from
+Tudor times.
+
+Five hundred men and boys are employed at Old Delabole, and their homes
+cluster in the little village without the works. Their type is Celtic,
+but many very blonde, high-coloured men labour here. All are polite,
+easy, and kindly; all appear to find their work interesting and take
+pleasure in explaining its nature to those who may be interested. The
+slate fills countless uses besides that of roofing, and the methods of
+cleaving and cutting it cannot easily be described. Steam plays its
+part, and the masses are reduced to manageable size by steel saws which
+slip swiftly through them; then workmen tackle the imperishable stuff,
+and with chisel and mallet split the sections thinner and thinner. It
+comes away wonderfully true, and a mass of stone gives off flake after
+flake until the solid rock has turned into a pile of dark grey slates,
+clean and bright of cleavage and ready for the roof. Green-grey or
+"abbey-grey" is the mass of the quarry output; but a generous production
+of "green" is also claimed. This fine stuff runs in certain veins, and
+offers a tone very beautiful and pleasant to the eye. Lastly, there are
+the reds--jewels among slates--that shine with russet and purple. This
+stone is rare, and can only be quarried in small quantities. All
+varieties have the slightest porosity, and take their places among the
+most distinguished slates in the world.
+
+
+
+
+TINTAGEL
+
+
+Ragged curtains of castellated stone climb up the northern side of a
+promontory and stretch their worn and fretted grey across the sea and
+sky. They are pierced with a Norman door, and beyond them there spreads
+a blue sea to the horizon; above it shines a summer sky, against whose
+blue and silver the ruin sparkles brightly. Beneath, a little bay opens,
+and the dark cliffs about it are fringed with foam; while beyond, "by
+Bude and Bos," the grand coastline is flung out hugely, cliff on cliff
+and ness on ness, until Hartland lies like a cloud on the sea and little
+Lundy peeps above the waters. Direct sunshine penetrates the haze from
+point to point, now bringing this headland out from among its
+neighbours, now accentuating the rocky islands, or flashing on some
+sea-bird's wing.
+
+Shadow, too, plays its own sleight; the cliff that was sun-kissed fades
+and glooms, while the scarps and planes before shaded, shine out again
+and spread their splendour along the sea. Light and darkness race over
+the waves also, and now the fringes of foam flash far off in the
+sunshine and streak the distant bases of earth; now they are no more
+seen, when the cloud shadows dim their whiteness and spread purple on
+the blue.
+
+A ewe and her lamb come through the gateway in the castle wall. They
+share the green slopes with me and browse along together. Overhead the
+gulls glide and a robber gull chases a jackdaw, who carries a lump of
+bread or fat in his beak. The gull presses hard upon the smaller bird,
+and Jack at last, after many a turn and twist, drops his treasure.
+Whereupon the gull dives downward and catches it in mid-air before it
+has fallen a dozen yards.
+
+The flora on these crags is interesting, though of little diversity.
+Familiar grasses there are, with plantain and sheep's sorrel, the silene
+and cushion pink, the pennywort and blue jasione, the lotus and
+eye-bright; but unsleeping winds from the west affect them as altitude
+dwarfs the alpines, and these things, though perfect and healthy and
+fair to see, are reduced to exquisite miniatures, where they nestle in
+the crannies of the rocks and flash their pink and white, or blue and
+gold, against the grey and orange lichens that wash the stones with
+colour and climb the ruin in the midst.
+
+In sheltered nooks the foxglove nods, but he, too, is dwarfed, yet seems
+to win a solid splendour of bells and intensity of tint from his
+environment.
+
+Other castle fragments there are--scattered here and on the neighbour
+cliff to the east; but they are of small account--no more than the
+stumps of vanished ramparts and walls. Even so, they stood before any
+word was printed concerning them, or pictures made. An ancient etching
+of more than two hundred years old shows that their fragments were then
+as now, and only doubtful tradition furnishes the historian with any
+data.
+
+But the castle is perched on a noble crag, whose strata of marble and
+slate and silver quartz slope from east to west downward until they
+round into sea-worn bosses and dip under the blue. The story of
+gigantic upheavals is written here, and the weathered rocks are cleft
+and serrated and full of wonderful convolutions for dawn and dusk to
+play upon. Here more wild flowers find foothold, and the wild bird makes
+her home. The cliffs are crested with samphire, and the white umbels of
+the carrot; they are brushed with the pale lemon of anthyllis, and the
+starry whiteness of the campion; they are honeycombed beneath by
+caverns, where the sea growls on calm days and thunders in time of
+storm.
+
+Westward of the mount, guarding the only spot where boat can land from
+these perilous waters, a fragment of the ruin still holds up above the
+little bay, within bow-shot of any adventurous bark that would brave a
+landing.
+
+Here is all that is left of the last castle on this famous headland. Of
+the so-called "Arthurian" localities, the most interesting and richest
+in tradition is that of North Cornwall, and at its centre lie these
+ancient strongholds. In addition to the Castle of Tintagel one finds
+King Arthur's Hall and Hunting Seat, his bed and his cups and saucers,
+his tomb and his grave.
+
+It is a long and intricate story, and none may say what fragment of
+reality homes behind the accumulated masses of myth and legend. With the
+bards of the sixth century and those that followed them we find the
+English beginnings of Arthur and his celebration as a first-class
+fighting man. Then it would seem he disappeared for a while, and takes
+no place, either in history or romance, until the ninth century. In 858,
+however, one Nennius, a Briton, made a history of the hero, some three
+centuries after his supposed death in 542. The "magnanimous Arthur" of
+Nennius fought against the Saxons, and, amid many more noble than
+himself, was twelve times chosen commander of his race. The Britons, we
+learn, conquered as often as he led them to war; and in his final and
+mightiest battle--that of Badon Hill--we are to believe that 940 of the
+enemy fell by Arthur's hand alone--a Homeric achievement, unassisted
+save by the watching Lord. Thereafter his activities ranged over other
+of the Arthurian theatres and campaigns before he died at Camlan.
+
+But alas for song! From Geoffrey of Monmouth to Tennyson, that last
+prodigious battle on the Camel has been the joy of poetry, and the
+mighty adventure between Arthur and Mordred has been told and retold a
+thousand times; yet if those warriors ever did meet, it was certainly in
+Scotland, and not Cornwall, that the encounter took place. Camlan is
+Camelon in the Valley of the Forth, and here a tolerably safe tradition
+tells that the King of the Picts, with his Scots and Saxons, defeated
+the Britons and slew their King.
+
+Leland reported to Henry VII. that "This castle hath been a marvellous
+strong fortress and almost _situ in loco_ inexpugnabile, especially from
+the dungeon that is on a great and terrabil crag environed with the se,
+but having a drawbridge from the residue of the castel on to it. Shepe
+now feed within the dungeon."
+
+That Arthur was begotten at Tintagel we may please to believe; but that
+he died far from the land of his birth seems sure.
+
+As for the existing ruin, it springs from that of the castle which saw
+the meeting of Arthur's parents, Uther Pendragon and the fair Igraine;
+but the original British building has long since vanished, and the
+present remains, dating from the Norman Conquest, did not rise until six
+hundred years later than the hero's death. An old Cornish tradition
+declares that Arthur's mighty spirit passed into a Cornish chough, and
+in the guise of that beautiful crow with the scarlet beak, still haunts
+the ruins of his birthplace.
+
+
+
+
+A CORNISH CROSS
+
+[Illustration: A CORNISH CROSS.]
+
+
+Kerning corn waved to the walls of the little churchyard and spread a
+golden foreground for the squat grey mass of the church that rose behind
+it. The building stood out brightly, ringed with oak and sycamore, and
+the turrets of the tower barely surmounted the foliage wrapped about it.
+Rayed in summer green the trees encircled church and burying-ground with
+shade so dense that the sun could scarce throw a gleam upon the graves.
+They lay close and girdled the building with mounds of grass and slabs
+of slate and marble. The dripping of the trees had stained the stones
+and cushions of moss flourished upon them. Here was the life of the
+hamlet written in customary records of triumphant age, failures of
+youth, death of children--all huddled together with that implicit pathos
+of dates that every churchyard holds.
+
+But more ancient than any recorded grave, more venerable than the church
+itself, a granite cross ascended among the tombs. Centuries had
+weathered the stone so that every angle of its rounded head and
+four-sided shaft was softened. Time had wrought on the granite mass, as
+well as man, and fingering the relic through the ages, had blurred every
+line of the form, set grey lichens on the little head of the Christ that
+hung there and splashed the shaft with living russet and silver and
+jade-green. The old cross rose nine feet high, its simple form clothed
+in a harmony of colours beautiful and delicate. The arms were filled
+with a carved figure of primitive type and a carmine vegetation washed
+the rough surfaces and outlined the human shape set in its small tunic
+stiffly there. Green moss covered the head of the cross and incised
+patterns decorated its sides to within a foot or two of the grass by a
+churchyard path from which it sprang.
+
+The design was of great distinction and I stood before one of the finest
+monuments in Cornwall. On the north side ran a zigzag; while to the
+south a more elaborate key-pattern was struck into the stone--a design
+of triangles enfolding each other. The back held the outline of a square
+filled with a cross and a shut semicircle carved beneath; while upon the
+face, under the head which contained the figure, there occurred another
+square with a cross. The shaft upon this side was adorned with the
+outline of a tall jug, or ewer, from which sprang the conventional
+symbol for a lily flower.
+
+There was another detail upon the southern side which seemed to lift
+this aged stone back into the mists of a past still more remote, for
+there, just above the ground, might be read the fragment of an
+inscription in debased Latin capitals. They were no longer decipherable
+save for the solitary word "FILIUS" which was easily to be
+distinguished, and this fragment of an obliterated inscription spoke
+concerning a period earlier by centuries than the carving and
+decoration. Indeed it indicated that the memorial was a palimpsest--a
+pre-Christian pillar-stone transformed at a later age to its present
+significance.
+
+There are above three hundred old crosses still standing in Cornwall,
+and not a few of these, dating from time beyond the Roman period,
+originally marked the burying-places of the pagan dead. At a later
+period, long after their original erection, they were mutilated. But the
+greater number of these grand stones belong to Christianity, and by
+their varied decorations the age of them may approximately be learned.
+
+Some bear the _Chi Rho_ monogram, which stands for the first two letters
+of the Greek "Christos," and these belong to the seventh century; but
+the more numerous appear to date from that later period when the sacred
+figure of the Christ began to be substituted in religious architecture
+for the symbolic lamb that always preceded it. The Eastern Church
+authorised this innovation, after A.D. 683, and pronounced that "The
+Lamb of Christ, our Lord, be set up in human shape on images henceforth,
+instead of the Lamb formerly used." The earliest type is not
+particularly human, however, and the little, archaic, shirted doll of
+Byzantine pattern, which ornaments so many of these Cornish crosses, has
+not much save archaeological interest to commend it. Until Gothic times
+this was the conventional pattern, and it is assumed that these early
+crucifixes dated from the eighth century and onward until a more
+naturalistic figure began to appear.
+
+Scattered over the far-flung landscape of the West our Cornish crosses
+stand; by meadow and tilth and copse, among the little hamlets of the
+peninsula, in lonely heaths and waste places overrun by wild growing
+things, they shall be found. Sometimes the Atlantic is their background
+and sometimes the waters of the Channel. They were set on the roads that
+led to the churches, and served not only as places for prayer, but also
+as sign-posts on the church-ways. Now many of the more splendid
+specimens have been rescued, as in the case of this great cross, and
+stand in churchyards, or under the shadow of sanctified buildings. Their
+fragments are also scattered over the land, here set in walls, here at
+cross-roads, now as a gate-post, or a stepping-stone, or foot-bridge.
+Sometimes they serve for boundary stones, and are yearly beaten;
+occasionally they support a sundial; not seldom the Ordnance Surveyors
+have outraged them with bench marks. Often only the stunted head and
+limbs of the wheel-crosses remain, their shafts vanished forever; still
+more frequently the cross-bases or pedestals alone have been chronicled
+and the stones that surmounted them exist no longer. None can say how
+numerous they were of old time; and it may happen, while many have been
+destroyed past recovery or restoration, that others still exist in
+obscure places, or sheltered by the saving earth, for a future race of
+antiquaries to discover and reclaim.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's A West Country Pilgrimage, by Eden Phillpots
+
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