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diff --git a/36962-8.txt b/36962-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ed5d7c3 --- /dev/null +++ b/36962-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,20633 @@ +Project Gutenberg's My Attainment of the Pole, by Frederick A. Cook + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: My Attainment of the Pole + +Author: Frederick A. Cook + +Release Date: August 3, 2011 [EBook #36962] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MY ATTAINMENT OF THE POLE *** + + + + +Produced by Greg Bergquist and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + + + + + [Illustration: Frederick A. Cook] + + + + + _Press Edition_ + + MY ATTAINMENT + OF THE POLE + + + _Being the Record of the Expedition that First Reached the Boreal + Center, 1907-1909. With the Final Summary of the Polar Controversy_ + + + _By_ + + DR. FREDERICK A. COOK + + + THIRD PRINTING, 60TH THOUSAND + + + [Illustration] + + + NEW YORK AND LONDON + MITCHELL KENNERLEY + MCMXIII + + By Special arrangements this edition is marketed by + The Polar Publishing Co., 601 Steinway Hall, Chicago + + + + COPYRIGHT 1913 + BY + DR. FREDERICK A. COOK + + + + +_OTHER BOOKS BY DR. COOK_ + + + Through the First Antarctic Night + A Narrative of the Belgian South Polar Expedition. + + To the Top of the Continent + Exploration in Sub-Arctic Alaska--The First Ascent of Mt. McKinley + + My Attainment of the Pole + Edition de Luxe + + + Each of above series will be sent post paid for $5.00. All to one + address for $14.00. + + Address: THE POLAR PUBLISHING CO. + 601 Steinway Hall, Chicago + + + + +_To the Pathfinders_ + + + To the Indian who invented pemmican and snowshoes; + To the Eskimo who gave the art of sled traveling; + To this twin family of wild folk who have no flag + Goes the first credit. + To the forgotten trail makers whose book of experience has been a + guide; + To the fallen victors whose bleached bones mark steps in the ascent + of the ladder of latitudes; + To these, the pathfinders--past, present and future--I inscribe the + first page. + In the ultimate success there is glory enough + To go to the graves of the dead and to the heads of the living. + + + + +THE PRESENT STATUS OF THE POLAR CONTROVERSY + + +DR. COOK IS VINDICATED. HIS DISCOVERY OF THE NORTH POLE IS ENDORSED BY +THE EXPLORERS OF ALL THE WORLD. + +In placing Dr. Cook on the Chautauqua platform as a lecturer, we have +been compelled to study the statements issued for and against the rival +polar claims with special reference to the facts bearing upon the +present status of the Polar Controversy. + +Though the question has been argued during four years, we find that it +is almost the unanimous opinion of arctic explorers today, that Dr. Cook +reached the North Pole on April 21, 1909. + +With officer Peary's first announcement he chose to force a press +campaign to deny Dr. Cook's success and to proclaim himself as the sole +Polar Victor. Peary aimed to be retired as a Rear-Admiral on a pension +of $6,000 per year. This ambition was granted; but the American Congress +rejected his claim for priority by eliminating from the pension bill the +words "Discovery of the Pole." The European geographical societies, +forced under diplomatic pressure to honor Peary, have also refused him +the title of "Discoverer." By a final verdict of the American government +and of the highest European authorities, Peary is therefore denied the +assumption of being the discoverer of the Pole, though his claim as a +re-discoverer is allowed. The evasive inscriptions on the Peary medals +prove this statement. + +Following the acute excitement of the first announcement, it seemed to +be desirable to bring the question to a focus by submitting to some +authoritative body for decision. Such an institution, however, did not +exist. Previously, explorers had been rated by the slow process of +historic digestion and assimilation of the facts offered, but it was +thought that an academic examination would meet the demands. Officer +Peary first submitted his case to a commission appointed by the National +Geographical Society of Washington, D. C. This jury promptly said that +in their "opinion" Peary reached the Pole on April 6, 1909; but a year +later in congress the same men unwillingly admitted that in the Peary +proofs there was no positive proof. + +Dr. Cook's data was sent to a commission appointed by the University of +Copenhagen. The Danes reported that the material presented was +incomplete and did not constitute positive proof. This verdict, however, +did not carry the interpretation that the Pole had not been reached. The +Danes have never said, as they have been quoted by the press, that Dr. +Cook did not reach the Pole; quite to the contrary, the University of +Copenhagen conferred the degree of Ph. D. and the Royal Danish +Geographical Society gave a gold medal, both in recognition of the +merits of the Polar effort. + +This early examination was based mostly upon the nautical calculations +for position, and both verdicts when analyzed gave the version that in +such observations there was no positive proof. The Washington jury +ventured an opinion. The Danes refused to give an opinion, but showed +their belief in Dr. Cook's success by conferring honorary degrees. + +It is the unfair interpretation of the respective verdicts by the +newspapers which has precipitated the turbulent air of distrust which +previously rested over the entire Polar achievement. All this, however, +has now been cleared by the final word of fifty of the foremost Polar +explorers and scientific experts. + +In so far as they were able to judge from all the data presented in the +final books of both claimants the following experts have given it as +their opinion that Dr. Cook reached the Pole, and that officer Peary's +similar report coming later is supplementary proof of the first victory: + +General A. W. Greely, U. S. A., commander of the Lady Franklin Bay +Expedition, who spent four years in the region under discussion. + +Rear Admiral W. S. Schley, U. S. N., commander of the Greely Relief +Expedition. + +Capt. Otto Sverdrup, discoverer of the land over which Dr. Cook's route +was forced. + +Capt. J. E. Bernier, commanding the Canadian Arctic Expeditions. + +Prof. G. Frederick Wright, author of the "Ice Age of North America." + +Capt. E. B. Baldwin, commanding the Baldwin-Ziegler Expedition. + +Prof. W. H. Brewer for 16 years president of the Arctic Club of America. + +Prof. Julius Payer of the Weyprecht-Payer Expedition. + +Prof. L. L. Dyche, member of various Peary and Cook Expeditions. + +Mr. Maurice Connell, Greely Expedition, and U. S. Weather Bureau. + +Capt. O. C. Hamlet, U. S. A. Arctic Revenue Service. + +Capt. E. A. Haven, Baldwin-Ziegler Expedition. + +Mr. Andrew J. Stone, Explorer of North Coast of America. + +Mr. Dillon Wallace, Labrador Explorer. + +Mr. Edwin Swift Balch, author of "The North Pole and Bradley Land." + +Captains Johan Menander, B. S. Osbon and Thomas F. Hall. + +Messrs. Henry Biederbeck, Frederick B. Wright, F. F. Taylor, Ralph H. +Cairns, Theodore Lerner, M. Van Ryssellberghe, J. Knowles Hare, Chas. E. +Rilliet, Homer Rogers, R. C. Bates, E. C. Rost, L. C. Bement, Clarence +Wychoff, Alfred Church, Archibald Dickinson, Robert Stein, J. S. +Warmbath, Geo. B. Butland, Ralph Shainwald, Henry Johnson, S. J. +Entrikin, Clark Brown, W. F. Armbruster, John R. Bradley, Harry Whitney +and Rudolph Franke. + +Drs. T. F. Dedrick, Middleton Smith, J. G. Knowlton, H. J. Egbert, W. H. +Axtell, A. H. Cordier and Henry Schwartz. + +Judge Jules Leclercq, and Prof. Georges Lecointe, Secretary of the +International Bureau of Polar Research. + +Thus endorsed by practically all Polar Explorers, Dr. Cook's attainment +of the Pole and his earlier work of discovery and exploration is farther +established by the following honorary pledges of recognition. (These are +now in the possession of Dr. Cook, the press reports to the contrary +being untrue). + +By the King of Belgium, decorated as Knight of the Order of Leopold. + +By the University of Copenhagen in conferring the degree of Ph. D. + +By the Royal Danish Geographical Society, presentation of a gold medal. + +By the Arctic Club of America, presentation of a gold medal. + +By the Royal Geographical Society of Belgium, presentation of a gold +medal. + +By the Municipality of the City of Brussels, presentation of a gold +medal. + +By the Municipality of the City of New York, with the ceremony of +presenting the keys and offering the freedom of the city. + +Without denying officer Peary's success, we note that his case rests +upon the opinion of three of his official associates in Washington. +Three men acting for a society financially interested--three men who +have never seen a piece of Polar ice--have given it as their "opinion" +that Mr. Peary (a year later than Dr. Cook) reached the Pole. By many +this was accepted as a final verdict of experts for Peary. But are such +men dependable experts? + +Dr. Cook now offers in substantiation of his work the support and the +final verdict of fifty of the foremost explorers and scientific experts. +Each in his own way has during the past four years examined the polar +problem and pronounced in favor of Dr. Cook. + +He is therefore vindicated of the propaganda of insinuation and distrust +which his enemies forced, and his success in reaching the Pole is +conceded and endorsed by his own peers. + +In his book, "My Attainment of the Pole," Dr. Cook offers with thrilling +vividness a most remarkable series of adventures in the enraptured +wilderness at the top of the globe. And in his lectures he takes his +audience step by step over the haunts of northernmost man and beyond to +the sparkling sea of death at the pole. Above all he leaves in the +hearts of his listeners the thrills of a fresh vigor and a new +inspiration, which opens the way for other worlds to conquer. By his +books and by his lectures, Dr. Cook seeks justice at the bar of public +opinion, and three million people have applauded his effort on the +platform. One hundred thousand people will read his book during the +coming year. We are inclined to agree with Capt. E. B. Baldwin and other +Arctic explorers who say--"Putting aside the academic and idle argument +of pin-point accuracy, the North Pole has been honestly reached by Dr. +Cook, three hundred and fifty days before any one else claimed to have +been there." + + May 22, 1913. + + THE CHAUTAUQUA MANAGERS' ASSOCIATION, + ORCHESTRA BUILDING, CHICAGO. + + Chas. W. Ferguson, Pres. A. L. Flude, Sec'y. + + + + +PREFACE + + +This narrative has been prepared as a general outline of my conquest of +the North Pole. In it the scientific data, the observations, every phase +of the pioneer work with its drain of human energy has been presented in +its proper relation to a strange cycle of events. The camera has been +used whenever possible to illustrate the progress of the expedition as +well as the wonders and mysteries of the Arctic wilds. Herein, with due +after-thought and the better perspective afforded by time, the rough +field notes, the disconnected daily tabulations and the records of +instrumental observations, every fact, every optical and mental +impression, has been re-examined and re-arranged to make a concise +record of successive stages of progress to the boreal center. If I have +thus worked out an understandable panorama of our environment, then the +mission of this book has served its purpose. + +Much has been said about absolute geographic proof of an explorer's +work. History demonstrates that the book which gives the final +authoritative narrative is the test of an explorer's claims. By it every +traveler has been measured. From the time of the discovery of America to +the piercing of darkest Africa and the opening of Thibet, men who have +sought the truth of the claims of discovery have sought, not abstract +figures, but the continuity of the narrative in the pages of the +traveler's final book. In such a narrative, after due digestion and +assimilation, there is to be found either the proof or the disproof of +the claims of a discoverer. + +In such narratives as the one herewith presented, subsequent travelers +and other experts, with no other interests to serve except those of fair +play, have critically examined the material. With the lapse of time +accordingly, when partisanship feelings have been merged in calm and +conscientious judgment, history has always finally pronounced a fair and +equitable verdict. + +In a similar way my claim of being first to reach the North Pole will +rest upon the data presented between the covers of this book. + +In working out the destiny of this Expedition, and this book which +records its doings, I have to acknowledge my gratitude for the +assistance of many people. First among those to whom I am deeply +indebted is John R. Bradley. By his liberal hand this Expedition was +given life, and by his loyal support and helpfulness I was enabled to +get to my base of operations at Annoatok. By his liberal donations of +food we were enabled to live comfortably during the first year. To John +R. Bradley, therefore, belong the first fruits of the Polar conquest. + +A tribute of praise must be placed on record for Rudolph Francke. After +the yacht returned, he was my sole civilized helper and companion. The +faithful manner in which he performed the difficult duties assigned to +him, and his unruffled cheerfulness during the trying weeks of the long +night, reflect a large measure of credit. + +The band of little people of the Farthest North furnished without pay +the vital force and the primitive ingenuity without which the quest of +the Pole would be a hopeless task. These boreal pigmies with golden +skins, with muscles of steel, and hearts as finely human as those of the +highest order of man, performed a task that cannot be too highly +commended. The two boys, Ah-we-lah and E-tuk-i-shook, deserve a place on +the tablet of fame. They followed me with a perseverance which +demonstrates one of the finest qualities of savage life. They shared +with me the long run of hardship; they endured without complaint the +unsatisfied hunger, the unquenched thirst, and the maddening isolation, +with no thought of reward except that which comes from an unselfish +desire to follow one whom they chose to regard as a friend. If a noble +deed was ever accomplished, these boys did it, and history should record +their heroic effort with indelible ink. + +At the request of Mrs. Cook, the Canadian Government sent its ship, the +"Arctic," under Captain Bernier, with supplementary supplies for me, to +Etah. These were left under the charge of Mr. Harry Whitney. The return +to civilization was made in comfort, by the splendid manner in which +this difficult problem was carried out. To each and all in this +combination I am deeply indebted. + +With sweet memories of the warm hospitality of Danes in Greenland, I +here subscribe my never-to-be-forgotten appreciation. I am also indebted +to the Royal Greenland Trading Company and to the United S. S. Company +for many favors; and, above all, am I grateful to the Danes as a nation, +for the whole-souled demonstrations of friendship and appreciation at +Copenhagen. + +In the making of this book, I was relieved of much routine editorial +work by Mr. T. Everett Harry, associate editor of Hampton's Magazine, +who rearranged much of my material, and by whose handling of certain +purely adventure matter a book of better literary workmanship has been +made. + +I am closing the pages of this book with a good deal of regret, for, in +the effort to make the price of this volume so low that it can go into +every home, the need for brevity has dictated the number of pages. My +last word to all--to friends and enemies--is, if you must pass judgment, +study the problem carefully. You are as capable of forming a correct +judgment as the self-appointed experts. One of Peary's captains has said +"that he knew, but never would admit, that Peary did not reach the +Pole." Rear Admiral Chester has said the same about me, but he "admits" +it in big, flaming type. With due respect to these men, in justice to +the cause, I am bound to say that these, and others of their kind, who +necessarily have a blinding bias, are not better able to judge than the +average American citizen. + +If you have read this book, then read Mr. Peary's "North Pole." Put the +two books side by side. When making comparisons, remember that my +attainment of the Pole was one year earlier than Mr. Peary's claim; that +my narrative was written and printed months before that of Mr. Peary; +that the Peary narrative is such that Rear Admiral Schley has +said--"After reading the published accounts daily and critically of +both claimants, I was forced to the conclusion from their striking +similarity that each of you was the eye-witness of the other's success. +Without collusion, it would have been impossible to have written +accounts so similar." + +This opinion, coming as it does from one of the highest Arctic and Naval +authorities, is endorsed by practically all Arctic explorers. Captain E. +B. Baldwin goes even further, and proves my claim from the pages of +Peary's own book. Governor Brown of Georgia, after a critical +examination of the two reports, says, "If it is true, as Peary would +like us to believe, that Cook has given us a gold brick, then Peary has +offered a paste diamond." + +Since my account was written and printed first, the striking analogy +apparent in the Peary pages either proves my position at the Pole or it +convicts Peary of using my data to fill out and impart verisimilitude to +his own story of a second victory. + +Much against my will I find myself compelled to uncover the dark pages +of the selfish unfairness of rival interests. In doing so my aim is not +to throw doubt and distrust on Mr. Peary's success, but to show his +incentive and his methods in attempting to leave the sting of discredit +upon me. I would prefer to close my eye to a long series of wrong doings +as I have done in the passing years, but the Polar controversy cannot be +understood unless we get the perspective of the man who has forced it. +Heretofore I have allowed others to expend their argumentative +ammunition. The questions which I have raised are minor points. On the +main question of Polar attainment there is not now room for doubt. The +Pole has been honestly reached--the American Eagle has spread its wings +of glory over the world's top. Whether there is room for one or two or +more under those wings, I am content to let the future decide. + + FREDERICK A. COOK. + +The Waldorf-Astoria, + + New York, June 15, 1911. + +[Illustration] + + + + +TABLE OF CONTENTS + + + PAGE + I THE POLAR FIGHT 1 + + II INTO THE BOREAL WILDS 23 + + THE YACHT BRADLEY LEAVES GLOUCESTER--INVADES THE MAGIC WATERS + OF THE ARCTIC SEAS--RECOLLECTIONS OF BOYHOOD AMBITIONS--BEYOND + THE ARCTIC CIRCLE--THE WEAVING OF THE POLAR SPELL + + III THE DRIVING SPUR OF THE POLAR QUEST 42 + + ON THE FRIGID PATHWAY OF THREE CENTURIES OF HEROIC MARTYRS-- + MEETING THE STRANGE PEOPLE OF THE FARTHEST NORTH--THE LIFE + OF THE STONE AGE--ON THE CHASE WITH THE ESKIMOS--MANEE AND + SPARTAN ESKIMO COURAGE + + IV TO THE LIMITS OF NAVIGATION 62 + + EXCITING HUNTS FOR GAME WITH THE ESKIMOS--ARRIVAL AT ETAH-- + SPEEDY TRIP TO ANNOATOK, THE WINDY PLACE, WHERE SUPPLIES ARE + FOUND IN ABUNDANCE--EVERYTHING AUSPICIOUS FOR DASH TO THE + POLE--DETERMINATION TO ESSAY THE EFFORT--BRADLEY INFORMED-- + DEBARK FOR THE POLE--THE YACHT RETURNS + + V PREPARATIONS FOR THE POLAR DASH 73 + + AN ENTIRE TRIBE BREATHLESSLY AND FEVERISHLY AT WORK--MAPPING + OUT THE POLAR CAMPAIGN + + VI THE CURTAIN OF NIGHT DROPS 81 + + TRIBE OF TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY NATIVES BUSILY BEGIN + PREPARATIONS FOR THE POLAR DASH--EXCITING HUNTS FOR THE + UNICORN AND OTHER GAME FROM ANNOATOK TO CAPE YORK--EVERY + ANIMAL CAUGHT BEARING UPON THE SUCCESS OF THE VENTURE--THE + GRAY-GREEN GLOOM OF TWILIGHT IN WHICH THE ESKIMO WOMEN + COMMUNICATE WITH THE SOULS OF THE DEAD + + VII FIRST WEEK OF THE LONG NIGHT 99 + + HUNTING IN THE ARCTIC TWILIGHT--PURSUING BEAR, CARIBOU AND + SMALLER GAME IN SEMI-GLOOM + + VIII THE MOONLIGHT QUEST OF THE WALRUS 114 + + DESPERATE AND DANGEROUS HUNTING, IN ORDER TO SECURE ADEQUATE + SUPPLIES FOR THE POLAR DASH--A THRILLING AND ADVENTUROUS + RACE IS MADE OVER FROZEN SEAS AND ICY MOUNTAINS TO THE WALRUS + GROUNDS--TERRIFIC EXPLOSION OF THE ICE ON WHICH THE PARTY + HUNTS--SUCCESS IN SECURING OVER SEVEN SLED-LOADS OF BLUBBER + MAKES THE POLE SEEM NEARER--AN ARCTIC TRAGEDY + + IX MIDNIGHT AND MID-WINTER 130 + + THE EQUIPMENT AND ITS PROBLEMS--NEW ART IN THE MAKING OF + SLEDGES COMBINING LIGHTNESS--PROGRESS OF THE PREPARATIONS-- + CHRISTMAS WITH ITS GLAD TIDINGS AND AUGURIES FOR SUCCESS + IN QUEST OF THE POLE + + X EN ROUTE FOR THE POLE 149 + + THE CAMPAIGN OPENS--LAST WEEKS OF THE POLAR NIGHT--ADVANCE + PARTIES SENT OUT--AWAITING THE DAWN + + XI EXPLORING A NEW PASS OVER ACPOHON 162 + + FROM THE ATLANTIC WATERS AT FLAGLER BAY TO THE PACIFIC WATERS + AT BAY FIORD--THE MECCA OF THE MUSK OX--BATTLES WITH THE + BOVINE MONSTERS OF THE ARCTIC--SUNRISE AND THE GLORY OF SUNSET + + XII IN GAME TRAILS TO LAND'S END 176 + + SVERDRUP'S NEW WONDERLAND--FEASTING ON GAME EN ROUTE TO + SVARTEVOEG--FIRST SHADOW OBSERVATIONS--FIGHTS WITH WOLVES AND + BEARS--THE JOYS OF ZERO'S LOWEST--THRESHOLD OF THE UNKNOWN + + XIII THE TRANS-BOREAL DASH BEGINS 194 + + BY FORCED EFFORTS AND THE USE OF AXES SPEED IS MADE OVER + THE LAND-ADHERING PACK ICE OF POLAR SEA--THE MOST DIFFICULT + TRAVEL OF THE PROPOSED JOURNEY SUCCESSFULLY ACCOMPLISHED-- + REGRETFUL PARTING WITH THE ESKIMOS + + XIV OVER THE POLAR SEA TO THE BIG LEAD 208 + + WITH TWO ESKIMO COMPANIONS, THE RACE POLEWARD CONTINUES OVER + ROUGH AND DIFFICULT ICE--THE LAST LAND FADES BEHIND--MIRAGES + LEAP INTO BEING AND WEAVE A MYSTIC SPELL--A SWIRLING SCENE OF + MOVING ICE AND FANTASTIC EFFECTS--STANDING ON A HILL OF ICE, + A BLACK, WRITHING, SNAKY CUT APPEARS IN THE ICE BEYOND--THE + BIG LEAD--A NIGHT OF ANXIETY--FIVE HUNDRED MILES ALREADY + COVERED--FOUR HUNDRED TO THE POLE + + XV CROSSING MOVING SEAS OF ICE 221 + + CROSSING THE LEAD--THE THIN ICE HEAVES LIKE A SHEET OF + RUBBER--CREEPING FORWARD CAUTIOUSLY, THE TWO DANGEROUS MILES + ARE COVERED--BOUNDING PROGRESS MADE OVER IMPROVING ICE--THE + FIRST HURRICANE--DOGS BURIED AND FROZEN INTO MASSES IN DRIFTS + OF SNOW--THE ICE PARTS THROUGH THE IGLOO--WAKING TO FIND + ONE'S SELF FALLING INTO THE COLD SEA + + XVI LAND DISCOVERED 232 + + FIGHTING PROGRESS THROUGH CUTTING COLD AND TERRIFIC STORMS-- + LIFE BECOMES A MONOTONOUS ROUTINE OF HARDSHIP--THE POLE + INSPIRES WITH ITS RESISTLESS LURE--NEW LAND DISCOVERED BEYOND + THE EIGHTY-FOURTH PARALLEL--MORE THAN TWO HUNDRED MILES FROM + SVARTEVOEG--THE FIRST SIX HUNDRED MILES COVERED + + XVII BEYOND THE RANGE OF LIFE 248 + + WITH A NEW SPRING TO WEARY LEGS BRADLEY LAND IS LEFT BEHIND-- + FEELING THE ACHING VASTNESS OF THE WORLD BEFORE MAN WAS MADE-- + CURIOUS GRIMACES OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN--SUFFERINGS INCREASE--BY + PERSISTENT AND LABORIOUS PROGRESS ANOTHER HUNDRED MILES IS + COVERED + + XVIII OVER POLAR SEAS OF MYSTERY 260 + + THE MADDENING TORTURES OF A WORLD WHERE ICE WATER SEEMS HOT, + AND COLD KNIVES BURN ONE'S HANDS--ANGUISHED PROGRESS ON THE + LAST STRETCH OF TWO HUNDRED MILES OVER ANCHORED LAND ICE-- + DAYS OF SUFFERING AND GLOOM--THE TIME OF DESPAIR--"IT IS + WELL TO DIE," SAYS AH-WE-LAH; "BEYOND IS IMPOSSIBLE" + + XIX TO THE POLE--LAST HUNDRED MILES 269 + + OVER PLAINS OF GOLD AND SEAS OF PALPITATING COLOR THE DOG + TEAMS, WITH NOSES DOWN, TAILS ERECT, DASH SPIRITEDLY LIKE + CHARIOT HORSES--CHANTING LOVE SONGS THE ESKIMOS FOLLOW WITH + SWINGING STEP--TIRED EYES OPEN TO NEW GLORY--STEP BY STEP, + WITH THUMPING HEARTS THE EARTH'S APEX IS NEARED--AT LAST! + THE GOAL IS REACHED! THE STARS AND STRIPES ARE FLUNG TO THE + FRIGID BREEZES OF THE NORTH POLE! + + XX AT THE NORTH POLE 286 + + OBSERVATIONS AT THE POLE--METEOROLOGICAL AND ASTRONOMICAL + PHENOMENA--SINGULAR STABILITY AND UNIFORMITY OF THE + THERMOMETER AND BAROMETER--A SPOT WHERE ONE'S SHADOW IS THE + SAME LENGTH EACH HOUR OF THE TWENTY-FOUR--EIGHT POLAR + ALTITUDES OF THE SUN + + XXI THE RETURN--A BATTLE FOR LIFE 314 + + TURNED BACKS TO THE POLE AND TO THE SUN--THE DOGS, SEEMINGLY + GLAD AND SEEMINGLY SENSIBLE THAT THEIR NOSES WERE POINTED + HOMEWARD, BARKED SHRILLY--SUFFERING FROM INTENSE DEPRESSION-- + THE DANGERS OF MOVING ICE, OF STORMS AND SLOW STARVATION--THE + THOUGHT OF FIVE HUNDRED AND TWENTY MILES TO LAND CAUSES + DESPAIR + + XXII BACK TO LIFE AND BACK TO LAND 326 + + THE RETURN--DELUDED BY DRIFT AND FOG--CARRIED ASTRAY OVER + AN UNSEEN DEEP--TRAVEL FOR TWENTY DAYS IN A WORLD OF MISTS, + WITH THE TERROR OF DEATH--AWAKENED FROM SLEEP BY A HEAVENLY + SONG--THE FIRST BIRD--FOLLOWING THE WINGED HARBINGER--WE + REACH LAND--A BLEAK, BARREN ISLAND POSSESSING THE CHARM OF + PARADISE--AFTER DAYS VERGING ON STARVATION, WE ENJOY A FEAST + OF UNCOOKED GAME + + XXIII OVERLAND TO JONES SOUND 341 + + HOURS OF ICY TORTURE--A FRIGID SUMMER STORM IN THE BERG-DRIVEN + ARCTIC SEA--A PERILOUS DASH THROUGH TWISTING LANES OF OPENING + WATER IN A CANVAS CANOE--THE DRIVE OF HUNGER + + XXIV UNDER THE WHIP OF FAMINE 355 + + BY BOAT AND SLEDGE, OVER THE DRIFTING ICE AND STORMY SEAS OF + JONES SOUND--FROM ROCK TO ROCK IN QUEST OF FOOD--MAKING NEW + WEAPONS + + XXV BEAR FIGHTS AND WALRUS BATTLES 365 + + DANGEROUS ADVENTURES IN A CANVAS BOAT--ON THE VERGE OF + STARVATION, A MASSIVE BRUTE, WEIGHING THREE THOUSAND POUNDS, + IS CAPTURED AFTER A FIFTEEN-HOUR STRUGGLE--ROBBED OF PRECIOUS + FOOD BY HUNGRY BEARS + + XXVI BULL FIGHTS WITH THE MUSK OX 378 + + AN ANCIENT CAVE EXPLORED FOR SHELTER--DEATH BY STARVATION + AVERTED BY HAND-TO-HAND ENCOUNTERS WITH WILD ANIMALS + + XXVII A NEW ART OF CHASE 393 + + THREE WEEKS BEFORE THE SUNSET OF 1908--REVELLING IN AN EDEN + OF GAME--PECULIARITIES OF ANIMALS OF THE ARCTIC--HOW NATURE + DICTATES ANIMAL COLOR--THE QUEST OF SMALL LIFE + + XXVIII A HUNDRED NIGHTS IN AN UNDERGROUND DEN 406 + + LIVING LIKE MEN OF THE STONE AGE--THE DESOLATION OF THE LONG + NIGHT--LIFE ABOUT CAPE SPARBO--PREPARING EQUIPMENT FOR THE + RETURN TO GREENLAND--SUNRISE, FEBRUARY 11, 1909 + + XXIX HOMEWARD WITH A HALF SLEDGE AND HALF-FILLED STOMACHS 425 + + THREE HUNDRED MILES THROUGH STORM AND SNOW AND UPLIFTED + MOUNTAINS OF ICE TROUBLES--DISCOVER TWO ISLANDS--ANNOATOK IS + REACHED--MEETING HARRY WHITNEY--NEWS OF PEARY'S SEIZURE OF + SUPPLIES + + XXX ANNOATOK TO UPERNAVIK 447 + + ELEVEN HUNDRED MILES SOUTHWARD OVER SEA AND LAND--AT ETAH-- + OVERLAND TO THE WALRUS GROUNDS--ESKIMO COMEDIES AND TRAGEDIES-- + A RECORD RUN OVER MELVILLE BAY--FIRST NEWS FROM PASSING SHIPS-- + THE ECLIPSE OF THE SUN--SOUTHWARD BY STEAMER GODTHAAB + + XXXI FROM GREENLAND TO COPENHAGEN 463 + + FOREWARNING OF THE POLAR CONTROVERSY--BANQUET AT + EGGEDESMINDE--ON BOARD THE HANS EGEDE--CABLEGRAMS SENT FROM + LERWICK--THE OVATION AT COPENHAGEN--BEWILDERED AMIDST THE + GENERAL ENTHUSIASM--PEARY'S FIRST MESSAGES--EMBARK ON OSCAR + II FOR NEW YORK + + XXXII COPENHAGEN TO THE UNITED STATES 476 + + ACROSS THE ATLANTIC--RECEPTION IN NEW YORK--BEWILDERING + CYCLONE OF EVENTS--INSIDE NEWS OF THE PEARY ATTACK--HOW + THE WEB OF SHAME WAS WOVEN + + XXXIII THE KEY TO THE CONTROVERSY 507 + + PEARY AND HIS PAST--HIS DEALING WITH RIVAL EXPLORERS--THE + DEATH OF ASTRUP--THE THEFT OF THE "GREAT IRON STONE," THE + NATIVES' SOLE SOURCE OF IRON + + XXXIV THE MT. MCKINLEY BRIBERY 521 + + THE BRIBED, FAKED AND FORGED NEWS ITEMS--THE PRO-PEARY + MONEY POWERS ENCOURAGE PERJURY--MT. MCKINLEY HONESTLY + CLIMBED--HOW, FOR PEARY, A SIMILAR PEAK WAS FAKED + + XXXV THE DUNKLE-LOOSE FORGERY 535 + + ITS PRO-PEARY MAKING + + XXXVI HOW A GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY PROSTITUTED ITS NAME 541 + + THE WASHINGTON VERDICT--THE COPENHAGEN VERDICT + + + RETROSPECT 557 + + THE PRESENT STATUS OF THE POLAR CONTROVERSY (Preceding Preface) (a) + + Dr. Cook Vindicated--His Discovery of the North Pole Endorsed + by the Explorers of all the World. + + THE PEARY-PARKER-BROWN HUMBUG UP TO DATE (To Finish Page) 534 + + Parker contradicts former Statement--Says he climbed Mt. + McKinley by Northeast Ridge.--The Ridge used by Dr. Cook. + + VERDICT OF THE GEOGRAPHIC HISTORIAN (By Edwin Swift Balch) 595 + + Dr. Cook's Record is Accurate--It is Certified--It is + Corroborated--He is the Discoverer of the North Pole. + + A REQUEST FOR A NATIONAL INVESTIGATION (By Dr. Frederick A. + Cook) 600 + + Nation should decide--Congress Should Investigate Rival + Claims--Letter to the President. + + CAN THE GOVERNMENT ESCAPE THE RESPONSIBILITY (By Fred High, + Editor of the Platform) 605 + + Cook Should Have a Fair Deal--An Unbiased Comparison--Letters + to and from Prominent Men. + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + + + FREDERICK A. COOK _Frontispiece_ + + FACING PAGE + RUDOLPH FRANCKE IN ARCTIC COSTUME 12 + + MIDNIGHT--"A PANORAMA OF BLACK LACQUER AND SILVER" 13 + + ON THE CHASE FOR BEAR--THE BOX-HOUSE AT ANNOATOK AND ITS + WINTER ENVIRONMENT 76 + + MAN'S PREY OF THE ARCTIC SEA--WALRUS ASLEEP 77 + + THE HELPERS--NORTHERNMOST MAN AND HIS WIFE 108 + + A MECCA OF MUSK OX ALONG EUREKA SOUND--A NATIVE + HELPER--AH-WE-LAH'S PROSPECTIVE WIFE 109 + + THE CAPTURE OF A BEAR--ROUNDING UP A HERD OF MUSK OXEN 140 + + SVARTEVOEG--CAMPING 500 MILES FROM THE POLE 141 + + "THE IGLOO BUILT, WE PREPARE FOR OUR DAILY CAMP" 172 + + CAMPING TO EAT AND TAKE OBSERVATIONS--ON AGAIN 173 + + DASHING FORWARD EN ROUTE TO THE POLE 204 + + DEPARTURE OF SUPPORTING PARTY--A BREATHING SPELL--POLEWARD 205 + + BRADLEY LAND DISCOVERED--SUBMERGED ISLAND OF POLAR + SEA--GOING BEYOND THE BOUNDS OF LIFE 236 + + SWIFT PROGRESS OVER SMOOTH ICE--BUILDING AN IGLOO--A + LIFELESS WORLD OF COLD AND ICE 237 + + "TOO WEARY TO BUILD IGLOOS, WE USED THE SILK TENT" + "ACROSS SEAS OF CRYSTAL GLORY TO THE BOREAL CENTRE" 268 + + MENDING NEAR THE POLE 269 + + FIRST CAMP AT THE POLE, APRIL 21, 1908 300 + + AT THE POLE--"WE WERE THE ONLY PULSATING CREATURES IN A + DEAD WORLD OF ICE" 301 + + "WITH EAGER EYES WE SEARCHED THE DUSKY PLAINS OF CRYSTAL, BUT + THERE WAS NO LAND, NO LIFE, TO RELIEVE THE PURPLE RUN OF DEATH" 332 + + RECORD LEFT IN BRASS TUBE AT NORTH POLE 333 + + OBSERVATION DETERMINING THE POLE--PHOTOGRAPH FROM ORIGINAL NOTE 364 + + BACK TO LAND AND BACK TO LIFE--AWAKENED BY A WINGED HARBINGER 365 + + E-TUK-I-SHOOK WAITING FOR A SEAL AT A BLOW HOLE 396 + + TOWARD CAPE SPARBO IN CANVAS BOAT--WALRUS--(PRIZE OF 15-HOUR + BATTLE) 4,000 LBS. OF MEAT AND FAT 397 + + PUNCTURED CANVAS BOAT IN WHICH WE PADDLED 1,000 MILES--FAMINE + DAYS, WHEN ONLY STRAY BIRDS PREVENTED STARVATION--DEN IN WHICH + WE SPENT 100 DOUBLE NIGHTS 428 + + BULL FIGHTS WITH THE MUSK OX ABOUT CAPE SPARBO 429 + + SAVED FROM STARVATION--THE RESULT OF ONE OF OUR LAST CARTRIDGES 460 + + "MILES AND MILES OF DESOLATION"--HOMEWARD BOUND 461 + + GOVERNOR KRAUL IN HIS STUDY--ARRIVAL AT UPERNAVIK 492 + + POLAR TRAGEDY--A DESERTED CHILD OF THE SULTAN OF THE NORTH AND + ITS MOTHER 493 + + + + +My Attainment of the Pole + + + + +I. + +THE POLAR FIGHT + + +On April 21, 1908, I reached a spot on the silver-shining desert of +boreal ice whereat a wild wave of joy filled my heart. I can remember +the scene distinctly--it will remain one of those comparatively few +mental pictures which are photographed with a terribly vivid +distinctness of detail, because of their emotional effect, during +everyone's existence, and which reassert themselves in the brain like +lightning flashes in stresses of intense emotion, in dreams, in the +delirium of sickness, and possibly in the hour of death. + +I can see the sun lying low above the horizon, which glittered here and +there in shafts of light like the tip of a long, circular, silver blade. +The globe of fire, veiled occasionally by purplish, silver-shot mists, +was tinged with a faint, burning lilac. Through opening cracks in the +constantly moving field of ice, cold strata of air rose, deflecting the +sun's rays in every direction, and changing the vision of distant ice +irregularities with a deceptive perspective, as an oar blade seen in the +depth of still water. + +Huge phantom-shapes took form about me; they were nebulous, their color +purplish. About the horizon moved what my imagination pictured as the +ghosts of dead armies--strange, gigantic, wraith-like shapes whose heads +rose above the horizon as the heads of a giant army appearing over the +summits of a far-away mountain. They moved forward, retreated, +diminished in size, and titanically reappeared again. Above them, in the +purple mists and darker clouds, shifted scintillantly waving flashes of +light, orange and crimson, the ghosts of their earthly battle banners, +wind-tossed, golden and bloodstained. + +I stood gazing with wonder, half-appalled, forgetting that these were +mirages produced by cold air and deflected light rays, and feeling only +as though I were beholding some vague revelation of victorious hosts, +beings of that other world which in olden times, it is said, were +conjured at Endor. It seemed fitting that they should march and remarch +about me; that the low beating of the wind should suddenly swell into +throbbing martial music. For that moment I was intoxicated. I stood +alone, apart from my two Eskimo companions, a shifting waste of purple +ice on every side, alone in a dead world--a world of angry winds, +eternal cold, and desolate for hundreds of miles in every direction as +the planet before man was made. + +I felt in my heart the thrill which any man must feel when an almost +impossible but dearly desired work is attained--the thrill of +accomplishment with which a poet must regard his greatest masterpiece, +which a sculptor must feel when he puts the finishing touch to inanimate +matter wherein he has expressed consummately a living thought, which a +conqueror must feel when he has mastered a formidable alien army. +Standing on this spot, I felt that I, a human being, with all of +humanity's frailties, had conquered cold, evaded famine, endured an +inhuman battling with a rigorous, infuriated Nature in a soul-racking, +body-sapping journey such as no man perhaps had ever made. I had proved +myself to myself, with no thought at the time of any worldy applause. +Only the ghosts about me, which my dazzled imagination evoked, +celebrated the glorious thing with me--a thing in which no human being +could have shared. Over and over again I repeated to myself that I had +reached the North Pole, and the thought thrilled through my nerves and +veins like the shivering sound of silver bells. + +That was my hour of victory. It was the climacteric hour of my life. The +vision and the thrill, despite all that has passed since then, remain, +and will remain with me as long as life lasts, as the vision and the +thrill of an honest, actual accomplishment. + +That I stood at the time on the very pivotal pin-point of the earth I do +not and never did claim; I may have, I may not. In that moving world of +ice, of constantly rising mists, with a low-lying sun whose rays are +always deflected, such an ascertainment of actual position, even with +instruments in the best workable condition, is, as all scientists will +agree, impossible. That I reached the North Pole approximately, and +ascertained my location as accurately, as painstakingly, as the +terrestrial and celestial conditions and the best instruments would +allow; that I thrilled with victory, and made my claim on as honest, as +careful, as scientific a basis of observations and calculations as any +human being could, I do emphatically assert. That any man, in reaching +this region, could do more than I did to ascertain definitely the +mathematical Pole, and that any more voluminous display of figures could +substantiate a claim of greater accuracy, I do deny. I believe still +what I told the world when I returned, that I am the first white man to +reach that spot known as the North Pole as far as it is, or ever will +be, humanly possible to ascertain the location of that spot. + +Few men in all history, I am inclined to believe, have ever been made +the subject of such vicious attacks, of such malevolent assailing of +character, of such a series of perjured and forged charges, of such a +widespread and relentless press persecution, as I; and few men, I feel +sure, have ever been made to suffer so bitterly and so inexpressibly as +I because of the assertion of my achievement. So persistent, so +egregious, so overwhelming were the attacks made upon me that for a time +my spirit was broken, and in the bitterness of my soul I even felt +desirous of disappearing to some remote corner of the earth, to be +forgotten. I knew that envy was the incentive to all the unkind abuses +heaped upon me, and I knew also that in due time, when the public +agitation subsided and a better perspective followed, the justice of my +claim would force itself to the inevitable light of truth. + +With this confidence in the future, I withdrew from the envious, +money-waged strife to the calm and restfulness of my own family circle. +The campaign of infamy raged and spent its force. The press lined up +with this dishonest movement by printing bribed, faked and forged news +items, deliberately manufactured by my enemies to feed a newspaper +hunger for sensation. In going away for a rest it did not seem prudent +to take the press into my confidence, a course which resulted in the +mean slurs that I had abandoned my cause. This again was used by my +enemies to blacken my character. In reality, I had tried to keep the +ungracious Polar controversy within the bounds of decent, gentlemanly +conduct; but indecency had become the keynote, and against this, mild +methods served no good purpose. I preferred, therefore, to go away and +allow the atmosphere to clear of the stench stirred up by rival +interest; but while I was away, my enemies were watched, and I am here +now to uncover the darkest campaign of bribery and conspiracy ever +forged in a strife for honor. + +Now that my disappointment, my bitterness has passed, that my hurt has +partly healed, I have determined to tell the whole truth about myself, +about the charges made against me, and about those by whom the charges +were made. Herein, FOR THE FIRST TIME, I will tell how and why I +believed I reached the North Pole, and give fully the record upon which +this claim is based. Only upon such a complete account of day-by-day +traveling and such observations, can any claim rest. + +Despite the hullabaloo of voluminous so-called proofs offered by a +rival, I am certain that the unprejudiced reader will herein find as +complete a story, and as valuable figures as those ever offered by +anyone for any such achievement in exploration as mine. Herein, for the +first time, shall I answer _in toto_ all charges made against me, and +this because the entire truth concerning these same charges I have not +succeeded in giving the world through other channels. Because of the +power of those who arrayed themselves against me, I found the columns of +the press closed to much that I wished to say; articles which I wrote +for publication underwent editorial excision, and absolutely necessary +explanations, which in themselves attacked my assailants, were +eliminated. + +Only by reading my own story, as fully set down herein, can anyone judge +of the relative value of my claim and that of my rival claimant; only by +so doing can anyone get at the truth of the plot made to discredit me; +only by doing so can one learn the reason for all of my actions, for my +failure to meet charges at the time they were made, for my disappearing +at a time when such action was unfairly made to confirm the worst +charges of my detractors. That I have been too charitable with those who +attempted to steal the justly deserved honors of my achievement, I am +now convinced; when desirable, I shall now, having felt the smarting +sting of the world's whip, and in order to justify myself, use the +knife. I shall tell the truth even though it hurts. I have not been +spared, and I shall spare no one in telling the unadorned and unpleasant +story of a man who has been bitterly wronged, whose character has been +assailed by bought and perjured affidavits, whose life before he +returned from the famine-land of ice and cold--the world of his +conquest--was endangered, designedly or not, by a dishonest +appropriation of food supplies by one who afterwards endeavored +to steal from him his honor, which is more dear than life. + +To be doubted, and to have one's honesty assailed, has been the +experience of many explorers throughout history. The discoverer of our +own continent, Christopher Columbus, was thrown into prison, and +another, Amerigo Vespucci, was given the honor, his name to this day +marking the land which was reached only through the intrepidity and +single-hearted, single-sustained confidence of a man whose vision his +own people doubted. Even in my own time have explorers been assailed, +among them Stanley, whose name for a time was shrouded with suspicion, +and others who since have joined the ranks of my assailants. +Unfortunately, in such cases the matter of proof and the reliability of +any claim, basicly, must rest entirely upon the intangible evidence of a +man's own word; there can be no such thing as a palpable and indubitable +proof. And in the case when a man's good faith is aspersed and his +character assailed, the world's decision must rest either upon his own +word or that of his detractors. + +Returning from the North, exhausted both in body and brain by a savage +and excruciating struggle against famine and cold, yet thrilling with +the glorious conviction of a personal attainment, I was tossed to the +zenith of worldly honor on a wave of enthusiasm, a world-madness, which +startled and bewildered me. In that swift, sudden, lightning-flash +ascension to glory, which I had not expected, and in which I was as a +bit of helpless drift in the thundering tossing of an ocean storm, I was +decorated with unasked-for honors, the laudations of the press of the +world rang in my ears, the most notable of living men hailed me as one +great among them. I found myself the unwilling and uncomfortable guest +of princes, and I was led forward to receive the gracious hand of a +King. + +Returning to my own country, still marveling that such honors should be +given because I had accomplished what seemed, and still seems, a merely +personal achievement, and of little importance to anyone save to him who +throbs with the gratification of a personal success, I was greeted with +mad cheers and hooting whistles, with bursting guns and blaring bands. I +was led through streets filled with applauding men and singing children +and arched with triumphal flowers. In a dizzy whirl about the +country--which now seems like a delirious dream--I experienced what I am +told was an ovation unparalleled of its kind. + +Coincident with my return to civilization, and while the world was +ringing with congratulations, there came stinging through the cold air +from the North, by wireless electric flashes, word from Mr. Peary that +he had reached the North Pole and that, in asserting such a claim +myself, I was a liar. I did not then doubt the good faith of Peary's +claim; having reached the boreal center myself, under extremely +favorable weather conditions, I felt that he, with everything in his +favor, could do as much a year later, as he claimed. I replied with all +candor what I felt, that there was glory enough for two. But I did, of +course, feel the sting of my rival's unwarranted and virulent attacks. +In the stress of any great crisis, the average human mind is apt to be +carried away by unwise impulses. + +Following Mr. Peary's return, I found myself the object of a campaign to +discredit me in which, I believe, as an explorer, I stand the most +shamefully abused man in the history of exploration. Deliberately +planned, inspired at first, and at first directed, by Mr. Peary from +the wireless stations of Labrador, this campaign was consistently and +persistently worked out by a powerful and affluent organization, with +unlimited money at its command, which has had as its allies dishonest +pseudo-scientists, financially and otherwise interested in the success +of Mr. Peary's expedition. With a chain of powerful newspapers, a +financial backer of Peary led a campaign to destroy confidence in me. I +found myself in due time, before I realized the importance of underhand +attacks, in a quandary which baffled and bewildered me. Without any +organization behind me, without any wires to pull, without, at the time, +any appreciable amount of money for defence, I felt what anyone who is +not superhuman would have felt, a sickening sense of helplessness, a +disgust at the human duplicity which permitted such things, a sense of +the futility of the very thing I had done and its little worth compared +to the web of shame my enemies were endeavoring to weave about me. + +One of the remarkable things about modern journalism is that, by +persistent repetition, it can create as a fact in the public mind a +thing which is purely immaterial or untrue. Taking the cue from Peary, +there was at the beginning a widespread and unprecedented call for +"proofs," which in some vague way were to consist of unreduced +reckonings. Mr. Peary had his own--he had buried part of mine. I did not +at the time instantly produce these vague and obscure proofs, knowing, +as all scientists know, that figures must inevitably be inadequate and +that any convincing proof that can exist is to be found only in the +narrative account of such a quest. I did not appreciate that in the +public mind, because of the newspapers' criticisms, there was growing a +demand for this vague something. For this reason, I did not consider an +explanation of the absurdity of this exaggerated position necessary. + +Nor did I appreciate the relative effect of the National Geographic +Society's "acceptance" of Mr. Peary's so-called "proofs" while mine were +not forthcoming. I did not know at the time, what has since been brought +out in the testimony given before the Naval Committee in Washington, +that the National Geographic Society's verdict was based upon an +indifferent examination of worthless observations and a few seconds' +casual observation of Mr. Peary's instruments by several members of the +Society in the Pennsylvania Railroad Station at Washington. With many +lecture engagements, I considered that I was right in doing what every +other explorer, including Mr. Peary himself, had done before me; that +is, to fulfill my lecture and immediate literary opportunities while +there was a great public interest aroused, and to offer a narrative of +greater length, with field observations and extensive scientific data, +later. + +Following the exaggerated call for proofs, there began a series of +persistently planned attacks. So petty and insignificant did many of +them seem to me that I gave them little thought. My speed limits were +questioned, this charge being dropped when it was found that Mr. Peary's +had exceeded mine. The use by the newspaper running my narrative story +of photographs of Arctic scenes--which never change in character--that +had been taken by me on previous trips, was held up as visible evidence +that I was a faker! Errors which crept into my newspaper account +because of hasty preparation, and which were not corrected because there +was no time to read proofs, were eagerly seized upon, and long, abstruse +and impressive mathematical dissertations were made on these to prove +how unscrupulous and unreliable I was. + +The photograph of the flag at the Pole was put forth by one of Mr. +Peary's friends to prove on _prima facie_ evidence that I had faked. +Inasmuch as the original negative was vague because of the non-actinic +light in the North, the newspaper photographers retouched the print and +painted on it a shadow as being cast from the flag and snow igloos. This +shadow was seized upon avidly, and after long and learned calculations, +was cited as showing that the picture was taken some five hundred miles +from the Pole. + +A formidable appearing statement, signed by various members of his +expedition, and copyrighted by the clique of honor-blind boosters, was +issued by Mr. Peary. In this he gave statements of my two Eskimo +companions to the effect that I had not gotten out of sight of land for +more than one or two "sleeps" on my trip. I knew that I had encouraged +the delusion of my Eskimos that the mirages and low-lying clouds which +appeared almost daily were signs of land. In their ignorance and their +eagerness to be near land, they believed this, and by this innocent +deception I prevented the panic which seizes every Arctic savage when he +finds himself upon the circumpolar sea out of sight of land. I have +since learned that Mr. Peary's Eskimos became panic-stricken near the +Big Lead on his last journey and that it was only by the +life-threatening announcement to them of his determination to leave +them alone on the ice (to get back to land as best they might or starve +to death) that he compelled them to accompany him. + +In any case, I did not consider as important any testimony of the +Eskimos which Mr. Peary might cite, knowing as well as he did that one +can get any sort of desired reply from these natives by certain adroit +questioning, and knowing also that the alleged route on his map which he +said they drew was valueless, inasmuch as an Eskimo out of sight of land +and in an unfamiliar region has no sense of location. I felt the whole +statement to be what it was, a trumped-up document in which my helpers, +perhaps unwittingly, had been adroitly led to affirm what Mr. Peary by +jesuitical and equivocal questioning planned to have them say, and that +it was therefore unworthy of a reply. + +I had left my instruments and part of the unreduced reckonings with Mr. +Harry Whitney, a fact which Mr. Whitney himself confirmed in published +press interviews when he first arrived--in the heat of the controversy +and after I left Copenhagen--in Sidney. When interviews came from Mr. +Peary insinuating that I had left no instruments in the North, this +becoming a definite charge which was taken up with great hue and cry, +I bitterly felt this to be a deliberate untruth on Mr. Peary's part. +I have since learned that one of Mr. Peary's officers cross-questioned +my Eskimos, and that by showing them Mr. Peary's own instruments he +discovered just what instruments I had had with me on my trip, and that +by describing the method of using these instruments to E-tuk-i-shook +and Ah-we-lah, Bartlett learned from them that I did take observations. +This information he conveyed to Mr. Peary before his expedition left +Etah for America, and this knowledge Mr. Peary and his party, +deliberately and with malicious intent, concealed on their return. At +the time I had no means of refuting this insinuation; it was simply my +word or Mr. Peary's. + +[Illustration: RUDOLPH FRANCKE IN ARCTIC COSTUME] + +[Illustration: MIDNIGHT--"A PANORAMA OF BLACK LACQUER AND SILVER."] + +I had no extraordinary proofs to offer, but, such as they were, I now +know, by comparison with the published reports of Mr. Peary himself, +they were as good as any offered by anyone. I was perhaps unfortunate in +not having, as Mr. Peary had, a confederate body of financially +interested friends to back me up, as was the National Geographic +Society. + +Not satisfied with unjustly attacking my claim, Mr. Peary's associates +proceeded to assail my past career, and I was next confronted by an +affidavit made by my guide, Barrill, to the effect that I had not scaled +Mt. McKinley, an affidavit which, as I later secured evidence, had been +bought. A widely heralded "investigation" was announced by a body of +"explorers" of which Peary was president. One of Colonel Mann's +muck-rakers was secretary, while its moving spirit was Mr. Peary's press +agent, Herbert L. Bridgman. In a desperate effort to help Peary, a +cowardly side issue was forced through Professor Herschell Parker, who +had been with me on the Mt. McKinley trip but who had turned back after +becoming panic-stricken in the crossing of mountain torrents. Mr. Parker +expressed doubt of my achievements because he differed with me as to the +value of the particular instrument to ascertain altitude which I, with +many other mountain climbers, used. I had offered all possible proofs +as to having climbed the mountain, as full and adequate proofs as any +mountaineer could, or ever has offered. + +I resented the meddlesomeness of this pro-Peary group of kitchen +explorers, not one of whom knew the first principles of mountaineering. +From such an investigation, started to help Peary in his black-hand +effort to force the dagger, with the money power easing men's +conscience--as was evident at the time everywhere--no fair result could +be expected. And as to the widely printed Barrill affidavit--this +carried on its face the story of pro-Peary bribery and conspiracy. I +have since learned that for it $1,500 and other considerations were +paid. Here was a self-confessed liar. I did not think that a sane public +therefore could take this underhanded pro-Peary charge as to the climb +of Mt. McKinley seriously. Indeed, I paid little attention to it, but by +using the cutting power of the press my enemies succeeded in inflicting +a wound in my side. + +I was thus plunged into the bewildering chaos which friends and enemies +created, and swept for three months through a cyclone of events which I +believe no human being could have stood. Before returning, I felt +weakened mentally and physically by the rigors of the North, where for a +year I barely withstood starvation. I was now whirled about the country, +daily delivering lectures, greeting thousands of people, buffeted by +mobs of well-meaning beings, and compelled to attend dinners and +receptions numbering two hundred in sixty days. The air hissed about me +with the odious charges which came from every direction. I was alone, +helpless, without a single wise counsellor, under the charge of the +enemies' press, mud-charged guns fired from every point of the compass. +Unlimited funds were being consumed in the infamous mill of bribery. + +I had not the money nor the nature to fight in this kind of battle--so I +withdrew. At once, howls of execration gleefully rose from the ranks of +my enemies; my departure was heralded gloriously as a confession of +imposture. Advantage was taken of my absence and new, perjured, forged +charges were made to blacken my name. Far from my home and unable to +defend myself, Dunkle and Loose swore falsely to having manufactured +figures and observations under my direction. When I learned of this, +much as it hurt me, I knew that the report which I had sent to +Copenhagen would, if it did anything, disprove by the very figures in it +the malicious lying document published in the New York _Times_. This, +combined with the verdict rendered by the University of Copenhagen--a +neutral verdict which carried no implication of the non-attainment of +the Pole, but which was interpreted as a rejection--helped to stamp me +in the minds of many people as the most monumental impostor the world +has ever seen. + +I fully realized that under the circumstances the only verdict of an +unprejudiced body on any such proofs to such a claim must be favorable +or neutral. The members of the University of Copenhagen who examined my +papers were neither personal friends nor members of a body financially +interested in my quest. Their verdict was honest. Mr. Peary's Washington +verdict was dishonest, for two members of the jury admitted a year later +in Congress, under pressure, that in the Peary data there was no +absolute proof. + +By the time I determined to return to my native country and state my +case, I had been placed, I am certain, in a position of undeserved +discredit unparalleled in history. No epithet was too vile to couple +with my name. I was declared a brazen cheat who had concocted the most +colossal lie of ages whereby to hoax an entire world for gain. I was +made the subject of cheap jokes. My name in antagonistic newspapers had +become a synonym for cheap faking. I was compelled to see myself held up +gleefully as an impostor, a liar, a fraud, an unscrupulous scoundrel, +one who had tried to steal honors from another, and who, to escape +exposure, had fled to obscurity. + +All the scientific work which scientists themselves had accepted as +valuable, all the necessary hardships and the inevitable agonies of my +last Arctic journey were forgotten; I was coupled with the most +notorious characters in history in a press which panders to the lowest +of human emotions and delights in men's shame. When I realized how +egregious, how frightful, how undeserved was all this, my soul writhed; +when I saw clearly, with the perspective which only time can give, how +I, stepping aside, in errors of confused judgment which were purely +human, had seemingly contributed to my unhappy plight, I felt the sting +of ignominy greater than that which has broken stronger men's hearts. + +For the glory which the world gives to such an accomplishment as the +discovery of the North Pole, I care very little, but when the very +result of such a victory is used as a whip to inflict cuts that mark my +future destiny, I have a right to call a halt. I have claimed no +national honors, want no medals or money. My feet stepped over the +Polar wastes with a will fired only by a personal ambition to succeed in +a task where all the higher human powers were put to the test of +fitness. That victory was honestly won. All that the achievement ever +meant to me--the lure of it before I achieved it, the only satisfaction +that remains since--is that it is a personal accomplishment of brain and +muscle over hitherto unconquered forces, a thought in which I have +pride. From the tremendous ovations that greeted me when I returned to +civilization I got not a single thrill. I did thrill with the handclasp +of confident, kindly people. I still thrill with the handclasp of my +countrymen. + +Insofar as the earthly glory and applause are concerned, I should be +only too glad to share them, with all material accruements, to any +honest, manly rivals--those of the past and those of the future. But +against the unjust charges which have been made against me, against the +aspersions on my personal integrity, against the ignominy with which my +name has been besmirched, I will fight until the public gets a normal +perspective. + +I have never hoaxed a mythical achievement. Everything I have ever +claimed was won by hard labor, by tremendous physical fortitude and +endurance, and by such personal sacrifice as only I, and my immediate +family, will ever know. + +For this reason, I returned to my country in the latter part of 1910, as +I always intended to do, after a year's rest. By this time I knew that +my enemies would have said all that was possible about me; the +excitement of the controversy would have quieted, and I should have the +advantage of the last word. + +In the heat of the controversy, only just returned in a weakened +condition from the North, and mentally bewildered by the unexpected +maelstrom of events, I should not have been able, with justice to +myself, to have met all the charges, criminal and silly, which were made +against me. Even what I did say was misquoted and distorted by a +sensational press which found it profitable to add fuel to the +controversy. Sometimes I feel that no man ever born has been so +variedly, so persistently lied about, misrepresented, made the butt of +such countless untruths as myself. When I consider the lies, great and +small, which for more than a year, throughout the entire world, have +been printed about me, I am filled almost with hopelessness. And +sometimes, when I think how I have been unjustly dubbed as the most +colossal liar of history, I am filled with a sort of sardonic humor. + +Returning to my country, determined to state my case freely and frankly, +and making the honest admission that any claim to the definite, actual +attainment of the North Pole--the mathematical pin-point on which the +earth spins--must rest upon assumptions, because of the impossibility of +accuracy in observations, I found that this admission, which every +explorer would have to make, which Mr. Peary was unwillingly forced to +make at the Congressional investigation, was construed throughout the +country and widely heralded as a "confession," that garbled extracts +were lifted from the context of my magazine story and their meaning +distorted. In hundreds of newspapers I was represented as confessing to +a fraudulent claim or as making a plea of insanity. A full answer to the +charges made against me, necessary in order to justly cover my case, +because of the controversial nature of certain statements which +involved Mr. Peary, was prohibited by the contract I found it necessary +to sign in order to get any statement of a comparatively ungarbled sort +before a public which had read Mr. Peary's own account of his journey. + +I found the columns of the press of my country closed to the publication +of statements which involved my enemies, because of the unfounded +prejudice created against me during my absence and because of the power +of Mr. Peary's friends. It is almost impossible in any condition for +anyone to secure a refutation for an unfounded attack in the American +papers. With the entire press of the country printing misstatements, I +was almost helpless. The justice, kindliness and generous spirit of fair +dealing of the American people, however, was extended to me--I found the +American people glad--nay, eager--to listen. + +It is this spirit which has encouraged me, after the shameful campaign +of opprobrium which well-nigh broke my spirit, to tell the entire and +unalterable truth about myself and an achievement in which I still +believe--in fairness to myself, in order to clear myself, in order that +the truth about the discovery of the North Pole may be known by my +people and in order that history may record its verdict upon a full, +free and frank exposition. I do not address myself to any clique of +geographers or scientists, but to the great public of the world, and +herein, for the first time, shall I give fully whatever proofs there may +be of my conquest. Upon these records must conviction rest. + +Did I actually reach the North Pole? When I returned to civilization and +reported that the boreal center had been attained, I believed that I +had reached the spot toward which valiant men had strained for more than +three hundred years. I still believe that I reached the boreal center as +far as it is possible for any human being to ascertain it. If I was +mistaken in approximately placing my feet upon the pin-point about which +this controversy has raged, I maintain that it is the inevitable mistake +any man must make. To touch that spot would be an accident. That any +other man has more accurately determined the Pole I do deny. That Mr. +Peary reached the North Pole--or its environs--with as fair accuracy as +was possible, I have never denied. That Mr. Peary was better fitted to +reach the Pole, and better equipped to locate this mythical spot, I do +not admit. In fact, I believe that, inasmuch as the purely scientific +ascertainment is a comparatively simple matter, I stood a better chance +of more scientifically and more accurately marking the actual spot than +Mr. Peary. I reached my goal when the sun was twelve degrees above the +horizon, and was therefore better able to mark a mathematical position +than Mr. Peary could have with the sun at less than seven degrees. Mr. +Peary's case rests upon three observations of sun altitude so low that, +as proof of a position, they are worthless. + +Besides taking observations, which, as I shall explain in due course in +my narrative, cannot be adequate, I also ascertained what I believed to +be my approximate position at the boreal center and en route by +measuring the shadows each hour of the long day. Inasmuch as one's +shadow decreases or increases in length as the sun rises toward the +meridian or descends, at the boreal center, where the sun circles the +entire horizon at practically the same height during the entire day, +one's shadow in this region of mystery is of the same length. In this +observation, which is so simple that a child may understand it, is a +sure and certain means of approximately ascertaining the North Pole. I +took advantage of this method, which does not seem to have occurred to +any other Arctic traveler, and this helped to bring conviction. + +I shall in this volume present with detail the story of my Arctic +journey--I shall tell how it was possible for me to reach my goal, why I +believe I attained that goal; and upon this record must the decision of +my people rest. I shall herein tell the story of an unfair and unworthy +plot to ruin the reputation of an innocent man because of an achievement +the full and prior credit of which was desired by a brutally selfish, +brutally unscrupulous rival. I shall tell of a tragedy compared with +which the North Pole and any glory accruing to its discoverer pales into +insignificance--the tragedy of a spirit that was almost broken, of a man +whose honor and pride was cut with knives in unclean hands. + +When you have read all this, then, and only then, in fairness to +yourself and in fairness to me, do I ask you to form your opinion. Only +by reading this can you learn the full truth about me, about my claim +and about the plot to discredit me, of the charges made against me, and +the reason for all of my own actions. So persistent, so world-wide has +been the press campaign made by my enemies, and so egregious have the +charges seemed against me, so multitudinous have the lies, fake stories, +fake interviews, fake confessions been, so blatant have rung the +hideous cries of liar, impostor, cheat and fraud, that the task to right +myself, explain myself, and bring the truth into clean relief has seemed +colossal. + +To return to my country and face the people in view of all that was +being said, with my enemies exultant, with antagonistic press men +awaiting me as some beast to be devoured, required a determined gritting +of the teeth and a reserve temperament to prevent an undignified battle. + +For against such things nature dictates the tactics of the tiger. I +faced my people, I found them fair and kindly. I accused my enemies of +their lies, and they have remained silent. Titanic as is this effort of +forcing fair play where biased abuse has reigned so long, I am confident +of success. I am confident of the honesty and justice of my people; of +their ability spiritually to sense, psychically to appreciate the +earmarks of a clean, true effort--a worthy ambition and a real +attainment. + + + + +INTO THE BOREAL WILDS + +THE YACHT BRADLEY LEAVES GLOUCESTER--INVADES THE MAGIC OF THE WATERS +OF THE ARCTIC SEAS--RECOLLECTION OF BOYHOOD AMBITIONS--BEYOND THE +ARCTIC CIRCLE--THE WEAVING OF THE POLAR SPELL + +II + +OVER THE ARCTIC CIRCLE + + +On July 3, 1907, between seven and eight o'clock in the evening, the +yacht, which had been renamed the _John B. Bradley_, quietly withdrew +from the pier at Gloucester, Massachusetts, and, turning her prow +oceanward, slowly, quietly started on her historic journey to the Arctic +seas. + +In the tawny glow of sunset, which was fading in the western sky, she +looked, with her new sails unfurled, her entire body newly painted a +spotless white, like some huge silver bird alighting upon the sunshot +waters of the bay. On board, all was quiet. I stood alone, gazing back +upon the picturesque fishing village with a tender throb at my heart, +for it was the last village of my country which I might see for years, +or perhaps ever. + +Along the water's edge straggled tiny ramshackle boat houses, +dun-colored sheds where fish are dried, and the humble miniature homes +of the fisherfolk, in the windows of which lights soon after appeared. +On the bay about us, fishing boats were lazily bobbing up and down; in +some, old bearded fishermen with broad hats, smoking clay and corncob +pipes, were drying their seines. Other boats went by, laden with +wriggling, silver-scaled fish; along the shore I could still see tons of +fish being unloaded from scores of boats. Through the rosy twilight, +voices came over the water, murmurous sounds from the shore, cries from +the sea mixed with the quaint oaths of fisherfolk at work. Ashore, the +boys of the village were testing their firecrackers for the morrow; +sputtering explosions cracked through the air. Occasionally a faint fire +rocket scaled the sky. But no whistles tooted after our departure. No +visiting crowds of curiosity-seekers ashore were frenziedly waving us +good-bye. + +An Arctic expedition had been born without the usual clamor. Prepared in +one month, and financed by a sportsman whose only mission was to hunt +game animals in the North, no press campaign heralded our project, no +government aid had been asked, nor had large contributions been sought +from private individuals to purchase luxuries for a Pullman jaunt of a +large party Poleward. For, although I secretly cherished the ambition, +there was no definite plan to essay the North Pole. + +At the Holland House in New York, a compact was made between John R. +Bradley and myself to launch an Arctic expedition. Because of my +experience, Mr. Bradley delegated to me the outfitting of the +expedition, and had turned over to me money enough to pay the costs of +the hunting trip. A Gloucester fishing schooner had been purchased by +me and was refitted, covered and strengthened for ice navigation. To +save fuel space and to gain the advantage of a steamer, I had a Lozier +gasoline motor installed. There had been put on board everything of +possible use and comfort in the boreal wild. As it is always possible +that a summer cruising ship is likely to be lost or delayed a year, +common prudence dictated a preparation for the worst emergencies. + +So far as the needs of my own personal expedition were concerned, I had +with me on the yacht plenty of hard hickory wood for the making of +sledges, instruments, clothing and other apparatus gathered with much +economy during my former years of exploration, and about one thousand +pounds of pemmican. These supplies, necessary to offset the danger of +shipwreck and detention by ice, were also all that would be required for +a Polar trip. When, later, I finally decided on a Polar campaign, extra +ship supplies, contributed from the boat, were stored at Annoatok. +There, also, my supply of pemmican was amplified by the stores of walrus +meat and fat prepared during the long winter by myself, Rudolph Francke +and the Eskimos. + +As the yacht slowly soared toward the ocean, and night descended over +the fishing village with its home lights glimmering cheerfully as the +stars one by one flecked the firmament with dots of fire, I felt that at +last I had embarked upon my destiny. Whether I should be able to follow +my heart's desire I did not know; I did not dare hazard a guess. But I +was leaving my country, now on the eve of celebrating its freedom, +behind me; I had elected to live in a world of ice and cold, of hunger +and death, which lay before me--thousands of miles to the North. + +Day by day passed monotonously; we only occasionally saw writhing curves +of land to the west of us; about us was the illimitable sea. That I had +started on a journey which might result in my starting for the Pole, +that my final chance had come, vaguely thrilled me. Yet the full purport +of my hope seemed beyond me. On the journey to Sydney my mind was full. +I thought of the early days of my childhood, of the strange ambition +which grew upon me, of my struggles, and the chance which favored me in +the present expedition. + +In the early days of my childhood, of which I now had only indistinct +glimmerings, I remembered a restless surge in my little bosom, a +yearning for something that was vague and undefined. This was, I +suppose, that nebulous desire which sometimes manifests itself in early +youth and later is asserted in strivings toward some splendid, sometimes +spectacular aim. My boyhood was not happy. As a tiny child I was +discontented, and from the earliest days of consciousness I felt the +burden of two things which accompanied me through later life--an innate +and abnormal desire for exploration, then the manifestation of my +yearning, and the constant struggle to make ends meet, that sting of +poverty, which, while it tantalizes one with its horrid grind, sometimes +drives men by reason of the strength developed in overcoming its +concomitant obstacles to some extraordinary accomplishment. + +As a very small boy, I remember being fascinated by the lure of a +forbidden swimming pool. One day, when but little over five, I, impelled +to test the depth, plunged to the center, where the water was above my +head, and nearly lost my life. I shall never forget that struggle, and +though I nearly gave out, in that short time I learned to swim. It seems +to me now I have been swimming and struggling ever since. + +Abject poverty and hard work marked my school days. When quite a boy, +after the death of my father, I came to New York. I sold fruit at one of +the markets. I saved my money. I enjoyed no luxuries. These days vividly +occur in my mind. Later I engaged in a dairy business in Brooklyn, and +on the meager profits undertook to study medicine. + +At that time the ambition which beset me was undirected; it was only +later that I found, almost by accident, what became its focusing point. +I graduated from the University of New York in 1890. I felt (as what +young man does not?) that I possessed unusual qualifications and +exceptional ability. An office was fitted up, and my anxiety over the +disappearing pennies was eased by the conviction that I had but to hang +out my shingle and the place would be thronged with patients. Six months +passed. There had been about three patients. + +I recall sitting alone one gloomy winter day. Opening a paper, I read +that Peary was preparing his 1891 expedition to the Arctic. I cannot +explain my sensations. It was as if a door to a prison cell had opened. +I felt the first indomitable, commanding call of the Northland. To +invade the Unknown, to assail the fastness of the white, frozen +North--all that was latent in me, the impetus of that ambition born in +childhood, perhaps before birth, and which had been stifled and starved, +surged up tumultuously within me. + +I volunteered, and accompanied Peary, on this, the expedition of +1891-92, as surgeon. Whatever merit my work possessed has been cited by +others. + +Unless one has been in the Arctic, I suppose it is impossible to +understand its fascination--a fascination which makes men risk their +lives and endure inconceivable hardships for, as I view it now, no +profitable personal purpose of any kind. The spell was upon me then. It +was upon me as I recalled those early days on the _Bradley_ going +Northward. With a feeling of sadness I realize that the glamor is all +gone now. + +On the Peary and all my subsequent expeditions I served without pay. + +On my return from that trip I managed to make ends meet by meager +earnings from medicine. I was nearly always desperately hard pressed for +money. I tried to organize several coöperative expeditions to the +Arctic. These failed. I then tried to arouse interest in Antarctic +exploration, but without success. Then came the opportunity to join the +Belgian Antarctic Expedition, again without pay. + +On my return I dreamed of a plan to attain the South Pole, and for a +long time worked on a contrivance for that end--an automobile arranged +to travel over ice. Financial failure again confronted me. +Disappointment only added to my ambition; it scourged me to a +determination, a conviction that--I want you to remember this, to bear +in mind the mental conviction which buoyed me--I must and should +succeed. It is always this innate conviction which encourages men to +exceptional feats, to tremendous failures or splendid, single-handed +success. + +A summer in the Arctic followed my Antarctic trip, and I returned to +invade the Alaskan wilds. I succeeded in scaling Mt. McKinley. After my +Alaskan expeditions, the routine of my Brooklyn office work seemed like +the confinement of prison. I fretted and chafed at the thought. Let me +have a chance, and I would succeed. This thought always filled my mind. +I convinced myself that in some way the attainment of one of the +Poles--the effort on which I had spent sixteen years--would become +possible. + +I had no money. My work in exploration had netted me nothing, and all my +professional income was soon spent. Unless you have felt the goading, +devilish grind of poverty hindering you, dogging you, you cannot know +the mental fury into which I was lashed. + +I waited, and fortune favored me in that I met Mr. John R. Bradley. We +planned the Arctic expedition on which I was now embarked. Mr. Bradley's +interest in the trip was that of a great sportsman, eager to seek big +game in the Arctic. My immediate purpose was to return again to the +frozen North. The least the journey would give me was an opportunity to +complete the study of the Eskimos which I had started in 1891. + +Mr. Bradley and I had talked, of course, of the Pole; but it was not an +important incentive to the journey. Back in my brain, barely above the +subconscious realm, was the feeling that this, however, might offer +opportunity in the preparation for a final future determination. I, +therefore, without any conscious purpose, and with my last penny, paid +out of my purse for extra supplies for a personal expedition should I +leave the ship.[1] + +Aboard the _Bradley_, going northward, my plans were not at all +definite. Even had I known before leaving New York that I should try for +the Pole, I should not have sought any geographical license from some +vague and unknown authority. Though much has since been made by critics +of our quiet departure, I always felt the quest of the Pole a personal +ambition[2], a crazy hunger I had to satisfy. + +Fair weather followed us to Sydney, Cape Breton. + +From this point we sailed over the Gulf of St. Lawrence, then entered +the Straits of Belle Isle at a lively speed. On a cold, cheerless day in +the middle of July we arrived at Battle Harbor, a little town at the +southeastern point of Labrador, where Mr. Bradley joined us. He had +preceded us north, by rail and coasting vessels, after watching a part +of the work of outfitting the schooner. + +On the morning of July 16 we left the rockbound coast of North America +and steered straight for Greenland. In this region a dense and heavy fog +almost always lies upon the sea. Then nothing is visible but +slow-swaying gray masses, which veil all objects in a shroud of ghostly +dreariness. Through the fog can be heard the sound of fisher-boat horns, +often the very voices of the fishermen themselves, while their crafts +are absolutely hidden from view. On this trip, however, from time to +time, great fragments of fog slowly lifted, and we saw, emerging out of +the gray mistiness, islands, bleak and black and weathertorn, and +patches of ocean dotted with scores of Newfoundland boats, which invade +this region to fish for cod. We entered the Arctic current, and +breasting its stream, a fancy came that perhaps this current, flowing +down from out of the mysterious unknown, came from the very Pole itself. + +Continuing, we entered Davis Straits, where we encountered headwinds +that piled up the water in great waves. It was a good test of the +sailing qualities of the _Bradley_, and well did the small craft +respond. + +Long before the actual coast line of Greenland could be seen we had a +first glimpse of the beauties that these northern regions can show. +Like great sapphires, blue ice floated in a golden sea; towering masses +of crystal rose gloriously, dazzling the eye and gladdening the heart +with their superb beauty. The schooner sailed into this wonderful yellow +sea, which soon became a broad and gleaming surface of molten silver. +Although this striking beauty of the North, which it often is so chary +of displaying, possesses a splendor of color equal to the gloriousness +of tropical seas, it always impresses one with a steely hardness of +quality suggestive of the steely hardness of the heart of the North. And +it somehow seemed, curiously enough, as if all this wonderful glitter +was a shimmering reflection from the ice-covered mountains of the +Greenland interior, although the mountains themselves were still +invisible. + +We swung from side to side, dodging icebergs. We steered cautiously +around low-floating masses, watching to see that the keel was not caught +by some treacherous jutting spur just beneath the water-line. Through +this fairyland of light and color we sailed slowly into a region rich in +animal life, a curious and striking sight. Seals floundered in the +sunbeams or slumbered on masses of ice, for even in this Northland there +is a strange commingling and contrast of heat and cold. Gulls and +petrels darted and fluttered about us in every direction, porpoises were +making swift and curving leaps, even a few whales added to the magic and +apparent unreality of it all. + +At length the coast showed dimly upon the horizon, veiled in a glow of +purple and gold. The wind freshened, the sails filled, and the speed of +the schooner increased. We were gradually nearing Holsteinborg, and the +course was set a point more in towards shore. The land was thrown into +bold relief by the brilliancy of lights and shadows, and in the +remarkably clear air it seemed as if it could be reached in an hour. But +this was an atmospheric deception, of the kind familiar to those who +know the pure air of the Rocky Mountains, for, although the land seemed +near, it was at least forty miles away. The general color of the land +was a frosty blue, and there were deep valleys to be seen, gashes cut by +the slow movement of centuries of glaciers, with rocky headlands leaping +forward, bleak and cold. It appeared to be a land of sublime desolation. + +The course was set still another point nearer the coast; the wind +continued fair and strong; and, with every possible stitch of canvas +spread, the schooner went rapidly onward. + +We saw rocky islands, drenched by clouds of spray and battered by +drifting masses of ice. There the eider duck builds its nest and spends +the brief summer of the Arctic. We saw dismal cliffs, terra cotta and +buff in color, in the crevasses of which millions of birds made their +homes, and from which they rose, frightened, in dense clouds, giving +vent to a great volume of clamorous hoarseness. + +Through our glasses we could see a surprising sight in such a +land--little patches of vegetation, seal brown or even emerald green. +Yet, so slight were these patches of green that one could not but wonder +what freak of imagination led the piratical Eric the Red, one thousand +years ago, to give to this coast a name so suggestive of luxuriant +forests and shrubs and general lushness of growth as "Greenland." Never, +surely, was there a greater misnomer, unless one chooses to regard the +old-time Eric as a practical joker. + +Between the tall headlands there were fiords cutting far into the +interior; arms of the sea, these, winding and twisting back for miles. +Along these quiet land-locked waters the Eskimos love to hunt and fish, +just as their forefathers have done for centuries. Shaggy looking +fellows are these Eskimos, clothed in the skins of animals, relieved by +dashes of color of Danish fabric, most of them still using spears, and +thus, to outward appearance, in the arts of life almost like those that +Eric saw. + +Although this rugged coast, with its low-lying islands, its icebergs and +floating icefields, its bleak headlands, its picturesque scenes of +animal life, is a continuous delight, it presents the worst possible +dangers to navigation, not only from reefs and under-water ice, but +because there are no lighthouses to mark permanent danger spots and +because signs of impending storm are ever on the horizon. While +navigating the coast, our officers spent sleepless nights of anxiety; +but the shortening of the nights and lengthening of the days, the daily +night brightening resulting from the northerly movement, combined with +an occasional flash of the aurora, gradually relieved the tension of the +situation. + +By the time the island of Disco rose splendidly out of the northern +blue, the Arctic Circle had been crossed, and a sort of celestial +light-house brightened the path of the schooner. Remaining on deck until +after midnight, we were rewarded by a sight of the sun magnified to many +times its normal size, glowing above the rim of the frosty sea. A light +wind blew gently from the coast, the sea ran in swells of gold, and the +sky was streaked with topaz and crimson. + +Bathed in an indescribable glow, the towering sides of the greatest +icebergs showed a medley of ever-changing, iridescent colors. The +jutting pinnacles of others seemed like oriental minarets of alabaster +fretted with old gold. Here and there, as though flung by an invisible +hand from the zenith, straggled long cloud ribbons of flossy crimson and +silver. Gradually, imperially, the sun rose higher and flushed sky and +sea with deeper orange, more burning crimson, and the bergs into vivid +ruby, chalcedony and chrysophase walls. This suddenly-changing, +kaleidoscopic whirl of color was rendered more effective because, in its +midst, the cliffs of Disco rose frowningly, a great patch of blackness +in artistic contrast. A pearly vapor now began to creep over the +horizon, and gradually spread over the waters, imparting a gentle and +restful tone of blue. This gradually darkened into irregular shadows; +the brilliant color glories faded away. Finally we retired to sleep with +a feeling that sailing Poleward was merely a joyous pleasure journey +over wonderful and magic waters. This, the first glorious vision of the +midnight sun, glowed in my dreams--the augury of success in that for +which my heart yearned. The glow never faded, and the weird lure +unconsciously began to weave its spell. + +Next morning, when we went on deck, the schooner was racing eastward +through heavy seas. The terraced cliffs of Disco, relieved by freshly +fallen snow, were but a few miles off. The cry of gulls and guillemots +echoed from rock to rock. Everything was divested of the glory of the +day before. The sun was slowly rising among mouse-colored clouds. The +bergs were of an ugly blue, and the sea ran in gloomy lines of ebony. +Although the sea was high, there was little wind, but we felt that a +storm was gathering and sought to hasten to shelter in Godhaven--a name +which speaks eloquently of the dangers of this coast and the precious +value of such a harbor. + +As we entered the narrow channel, which turns among low, polished rocks +and opens into the harbor, two Eskimos in kayaks came out to act as +pilots. Taking them aboard, we soon found a snug anchorage, secure from +wind and sea. The launch was lowered, and in it we left the schooner for +a visit to the Governor. + +Coming up to a little pier, we were cordially greeted by Governor +Fenker, who escorted us to his home, where his wife, a cultivated young +Danish woman, offered us sincere hospitality. + +The little town itself was keenly alive. All the inhabitants, and all +the dogs as well, were jumping about on the rocks, eagerly gazing at our +schooner. The houses of the Governor and the Inspector were the most +important of the town. They were built of wood imported from Denmark, +and were covered with tarred paper. Though quite moderate in size, the +houses seemed too large and out of place in their setting of +ice-polished rocks. Beyond them were twenty Eskimo huts, nearly square +in shape, constructed of wood and stone, the cracks of which were filled +tightly with moss. + +We deferred our visit to the native huts, and invited Governor Fenker +and his wife to dine aboard the schooner. The surprise of the evening +for these two guests was the playing of our phonograph, the tunes of +which brought tears of homesickness to the eyes of the Governor's gentle +wife. + +Anywhere on the coast of Greenland, the coming of a ship is always one +of the prime events of the season. So uneventful is life in these +out-of-the-way places that such an arrival is the greatest possible +social enlivener. The instant that the approach of our schooner had been +noted, the Eskimo girls--queer little maids in queer little +trousers--decided upon having a dance, and word was brought us that +everyone was invited to take part. The sailors eagerly responded, and +tumbled ashore as soon as they were permitted, leaving merely enough for +a watch on board ship. Then, to the sound of savage music, the dance was +continued until long after midnight. A curious kind of midnight dance it +was, with the sun brightly shining in a night unveiled of glitter and +color glory. The sailors certainly found pleasure in whirling about, +their arms encircling fat and clumsy waists. They did admit, however, +when back on board the schooner, that the smell of the furs within which +the maidens had spent the past winter was less agreeable than the savor +of fish. The name of this scattered settlement of huts, Godhaven, comes, +clearly enough, from its offering fortunate refuge from storms; that the +place is also known as Lively is not in the least to be wondered at, if +one has watched a midnight dance of the little population and their +visitors. + +Before hauling in anchor in the harbor of Godhaven, we made some +necessary repairs to the yacht and filled our tanks with water. With a +free wind speeding onward to the west of Disco, we passed the narrow +strait known as the Vaigat early the following morning. As I stood on +deck and viewed the passing of icebergs, glittering in the limpid, +silvery light of morning like monstrous diamonds, there began to grow +within me a feeling--that throbbed in pulsation with the onward movement +of the boat--that every minute, every mile, meant a nearing to that +mysterious center, on the attaining of which I had set my heart, and +which, even now, seemed unlikely, improbable. Yet the thought gave me a +thrill. + +Before noon we reached the mouth of Umanak Fiord, into the delightful +waters of which we were tempted to enter. The lure of the farther North +decided us against this, and soon the striking Svarten Huk (Black Hook), +a great rock cliff, loomed upon the horizon. Beyond it, gradually +appeared a long chain of those islands among which lies Upernavik, where +the last traces of civilized or semi-civilized life are found. The wind +increased in force but the horizon remained remarkably clear. Over a +bounding sea we sped rapidly along to the west, into the labyrinth of +islands that are sprinkled along the southern shore of Melville Bay.[3] +Beyond, we were to come into the true boreal wilderness of ice, where +there were only a few savage aborigines, its sole inhabitants. + +On the following day, with reduced sail and the help of the auxiliary +engine, we pushed far up into Melville Bay, where we ran into fields of +pack-ice. Here we decided to hunt for game. With this purpose it was +necessary to keep close to land. Here also came our first realistic +experience with the great forces of the North. The pack-ice floated +close around us, young ice cemented the broken masses together, and for +several days we were thus closely imprisoned in frozen seas. + +These days of enforced delay were days of great pleasure, for the bears +and seals on the ice afforded considerable sport. The constant danger of +our position, however, required a close watch for the safety of the +schooner. The Devil's Thumb, a high rock shaped like a dark thumb +pointing at the sky, loomed darkly and beckoningly before us. A biting +wind descended from the interior. + +The ice groaned; the eiderducks, guillemots and gulls uttered shrill and +disturbing cries, seemingly sensing the coming of a storm. + +For three days we were held in the grip of the relentless pack; then the +glimmer of the land ice changed to an ugly gray, the pack around us +began to crack threateningly, and the sky darkened to the southward. + +The wind ominously died away. The air thickened rapidly. A general +feeling of anxiety came over us, although my familiarity with storms in +the North made it possible for me to explain that heavy seas are seldom +felt within the zone of a large ice-pack, for the reason that the +icebergs, the flat ice masses, and even the small floating fragments, +ordinarily hold down the swells. Even when the pack begins to break, the +lanes of water between the fragments thicken under the lower temperature +like an oiled surface, and offer an easy sea. Furthermore, a really +severe wind would be sure to release the schooner, and it would then be +possible to trust it to its staunch qualities in free water. + +Hardly had we finished dinner when we heard the sound of a brisk wind +rushing through the rigging. Hurrying to the deck, we saw coils of what +looked like smoky vapor rising in the south as if belched from some +great volcano. The gloom on the horizon was rapidly growing deeper. The +sound of the wind changed to a threatening, sinister hiss. In the +piercing steel-gray light we saw the ice heave awesomely, like moving +hills, above the blackening water. The bergs swayed and rocked, and the +massed ice gave forth strange, troublous sounds. + +Suddenly a channel began to open through the ice in front of us. The +trisail was quickly set, the other sails being left tightly furled, and +with the engine helping to push us in the desired direction, we drew +deep breaths of relief as we moved out into the free water to the +westward. + +We felt a sense of safety now, although, clear of the ice, the sea rose +about us with a sickening suddenness. Black as night, the water seemed +far more dangerous because the waves were everywhere dashing angrily +against walls of ice. Already strong, the wind veered slightly and +increased to a fierce, persistent gale. Like rubber balls, the bergs +bounded and rolled in the sea. The sound of the storm was now a thunder +suggestive of constantly exploding cannons. But, fortunately, we were +snug aboard, and, keeping the westerly course, soon escaped the dangers +of ensnaring ice. + +We were still in a heavy storm, and had we not had full confidence in +the ship, built as she was to withstand the storms of the Grand Banks, +we should still have felt anxiety, for the schooner rolled and pitched +and the masts dipped from side to side until they almost touched the +water. + +Icy water swept the deck. A rain began to fall, and quickly sheathed the +masts and ropes in ice. Snow followed, giving a surface as of sandpaper +to the slippery, icy decks. The temperature was not low, but the cutting +wind pierced one to the very marrow. Our men were drenched with spray +and heavily coated with ice. Although suffering severely, the sailors +maintained their courage and appeared even abnormally happy. Gradually +we progressed into the open sea. In the course of four hours the storm +began to abate, and, under a double-reefed foresail, at last we +gleefully rode out the finish of the storm in safety. + + + + +THE DRIVING SPUR OF THE POLAR QUEST + +ON THE FRIGID PATHWAY OF THREE CENTURIES OF HEROIC MARTYRS--MEETING THE +STRANGE PEOPLE OF THE FARTHEST NORTH--THE LIFE OF THE STONE AGE--ON THE +CHASE WITH THE ESKIMOS--MANEE AND SPARTAN ESKIMO COURAGE + +III + +STRANGE TRAITS OF NORTHERNMOST MAN + + +I have often wondered of late about the dazzling white, eerie glamor +with which the Northland weaves its spell about the heart of a man. I +know of nothing on earth so strange, so wonderful, withal so sad. +Pursuing our course through Melville Bay, I felt the fatal magic of it +enthralling my very soul. For hours I stood on deck alone, the midnight +sun, like some monstrous perpetual light to some implacable +frozen-hearted deity, burning blindingly upon the horizon and setting +the sea aflame. The golden colors suffused my mind, and I swam in a sea +of molten glitter. + +I was consumed for hours by but one yearning--a yearning that filled and +intoxicated me--to go on, and on, and ever onward, where no man had ever +been. Perhaps it is the human desire to excel others, to prove, because +of the innate egotism of the human unit, that one possesses qualities of +brain and muscle which no other possesses, that has crazed men to +perform this, the most difficult physical test in the world. The lure of +the thing is unexplainable. + +During those dizzy hours on deck I thought of those who had preceded me; +of heroic men who for three centuries had braved suffering, cold and +famine, who had sacrificed the comforts of civilization, their families +and friends, who had given their own lives in the pursuit of this +mysterious, yea, fruitless quest. I remembered reading the thrilling +tales of those who returned--tales which had flushed me with excitement +and inspired me with the same mad ambition. I thought of the noble, +indefatigable efforts of these men, of the heart-sickening failures, in +which I too had shared. And I felt the indomitable, swift surge of their +awful, goading determination within me--to subdue the forces of nature, +to cover as Icarus did the air those icy spaces, to reach the +silver-shining vacantness which men called the North Pole. + +As we cut the shimmering waters, I felt, as it were, the wierd, unseen +presence of those who had died there--died horribly--men whose bodies +had withered, with slow suffering, in frigid blasts and famine, who +possibly had prolonged their suffering by feeding upon their own doomed +companions--and of others who had perished swiftly in the sudden yawning +of the leprous white mouth of the hungry frozen sea. It is said by some +that souls live only after death by the energy of great emotions, great +loves, or great ambitions generated throughout life. It seemed to me, in +those hours of intoxication, that I could feel the implacable, +unsatisfied desire of these disembodied things, who had vibrated with +one aim and still yearned in the spirit for what now they were +physically unable to attain. It seemed that my brain was fired with the +intensity of all these dead men's ambition, that my heart in sympathy +beat more turbulently with the throb of their dead hearts; I felt +growing within me, irresistibly, what I did not dare, for fear it might +not be possible, to confide to Bradley--a determination, even in the +face of peril, to essay the Pole! + +From this time onward, and until I turned my back upon the fruitless +silver-shining place of desolation at the apex of the world, I felt the +intoxication, the intangible lure of the thing exhilarating, buoying me +gladsomely, beating in my heart with a singing rhythm. I recall it now +with marveling, and am filled with the pathos of it. Yet, despite all +that I have suffered since because of it, I regret not those enraptured +hours of perpetual glitter of midnight suns. + +One morning we reached the northern shore of Melville Bay, and the bold +cliffs of Cape York were dimly outlined through a gray mist. Strong +southern winds had carried such great masses of ice against the coast +that it was impossible to make a near approach, and as a strong wind +continued, there was such a heavy sea along the bobbing line of outer +ice as to make it quite impossible to land and thence proceed toward the +shore. + +We were desirous of meeting the natives of Cape York, but these ice +conditions forced us to proceed without touching here, and so we set our +course for the next of the northernmost villages, at North Star Bay. By +noon the mist had vanished, and we saw clearly the steep slopes and warm +color of crimson cliffs rising precipitously out of the water. The coast +line is about two thousand feet high, evidently the remains of an old +tableland which extends a considerable distance northward. Here and +there were short glaciers which had worn the cliffs away in their +ceaseless effort to reach the sea. The air was full of countless gulls, +guillemots, little auks and eider-ducks. + +As the eye followed the long and lofty line of crimson cliffs, there +came into sight a towering, conical rock, a well-known guidepost for the +navigator. Continuing, we caught sight of the long ice wall of Petowik +Glacier, and behind this, extending far to the eastward, the +scintillating, white expanse of the overland-ice which blankets the +interior of all Greenland. + +The small and widely scattered villages of the Eskimos of this region +are hemmed in by the ice walls of Melville Bay on the southward, the +stupendous cliffs of Humboldt Glacier on the north, an arm of the sea to +the westward, and the hopelessly desolate Greenland interior toward the +east. + +There is really no reason why many Eskimos should not live here, for +there is abundant food in both sea and air, and even considerable game +on land. Blue and white foxes are everywhere to be seen. There is the +seal, the walrus, the narwhal, and the white whale. There is the white +bear, monarch of the Polar wilds, who roams in every direction over his +kingdom. The principal reason why the population remains so small lies +in the hazardous conditions of life. Children are highly prized, and a +marriageable woman or girl who has one or more of them is much more +valuable as a match than one who is childless. + +The coast line here is paradoxically curious, for although the coast +exceeds but barely more than two hundred miles of latitude it presents +in reality a sea line of about four thousand miles when the great +indentations of Wolstenholm Sound, Inglefield Gulf, and other bays, +sounds and fiords are measured. + +We sailed cautiously now about Cape Atholl, which we were to circle; a +fog lay upon the waters, almost entirely hiding the innumerable +icebergs, and making it difficult to pick our course among the dangerous +rocks in this vicinity. + +Rounding Cape Atholl, we sailed into Wolstenholm Sound and turned our +prow toward the Eskimo village on North Star Bay. + +North Star Bay is guarded by a promontory expressively named Table +Mountain, "Oomanaq." As we neared this headland, many natives came out +in kayaks to meet us. Inasmuch as I knew most of them personally, I felt +a singular thrill of pleasure in seeing them. Years before, I learned +their simple-hearted faithfulness. Knud Rasmussen, a Danish writer, +living as a native among the Eskimos, apparently for the sake of getting +local color, was in one of the canoes and came aboard the ship. + +As it was necessary to make slight repairs to the schooner, we here had +to follow the primitive method of docking by preliminary beaching her. +This was done at high tide when the propeller, which had been bent--the +principal damage to the ship--was straightened. At the same time we gave +the yacht a general looking-over, and righted a universal joint whose +loosening had disabled the engine. + +Meanwhile the launch kept busy scurrying to and fro, our quest being +occasionally rewarded with eider-ducks or other game. Late at night, a +visit was made to the village of Oomanooi. It could hardly be called a +village, for it consisted merely of seven triangular sealskin tents, +conveniently placed on picturesque rocks. Gathered about these in large +numbers, were men, women and children, shivering in the midnight chill. + +These were odd-looking specimens of humanity. In height, the men +averaged but five feet, two inches, and the women four feet, ten. All +had broad, fat faces, heavy bodies and well-rounded limbs. Their skin +was slightly bronzed; both men and women had coal-black hair and brown +eyes. Their noses were short, and their hands and feet short, but thick. + +A genial woman was found at every tent opening, ready to receive +visitors in due form. We entered and had a short chat with each family. +Subjects of conversation were necessarily limited, but after all, they +were about the same as they would have been in a civilized region. We +conversed as to whether or not all of us had been well, of deaths, +marriages and births. Then we talked of the luck of the chase, which +meant prosperity or need of food. Even had it been a civilized +community, there would have been little questioning regarding national +or international affairs, because, in such case, everyone reads the +papers. Here there was no comment on such subjects simply because nobody +cares anything about them or has any papers to read. + +That a prominent Eskimo named My-ah had disposed of a few surplus wives +to gain the means whereby to acquire a few more dogs, was probably the +most important single item of information conveyed. I was also informed +that at the present time there happened to be only one other man with +two wives. + +Marriage, among these folk, is a rather free and easy institution. It +is, indeed, not much more than a temporary tie of possession. Men +exchange partners with each other much in the manner that men in other +countries swap horses. And yet, the position of women is not so humble +as this custom might seem to indicate, for they themselves are +permitted, not infrequently, to choose new partners. These exceedingly +primitive ideas work out surprisingly well in practice in these isolated +regions, for such exchanges, when made, are seemingly to the advantage +and satisfaction of all parties; no regrets are expressed, and the feuds +of divorce courts, of alimony proceedings, of damages for alienation of +affection, which prevail in so-called civilization, are unknown. + +It is certainly a curious thing that these simple but intelligent people +are able to control their own destinies with a comfortable degree of +success, although they are without laws or literature and without any +fixed custom to regulate the matrimonial bond. + +It would seem as if there ought to be a large population, for there is +an average of about three fat, clever children for each family, the +youngest as a rule picturesquely resting in a pocket on the mother's +back. But the hardships of life in this region are such that accidents +and deaths keep down the population. + +Each tent has a raised platform, upon which all sleep. The edge of this +makes a seat, and on each side are placed stone lamps in which blubber +is burned, with moss as a wick. Over this is a drying rack, also a few +sticks, but there is no other furniture. Their dress of furs gives the +Eskimos a look of savage fierceness which their kindly faces and easy +temperament do not warrant. + +On board the yacht were busy days of barter. Furs and ivory were +gathered in heaps in exchange for guns, knives and needles. Every +seaman, from cabin boy to captain, suddenly got rich in the gamble of +trade for prized blue-fox skins and narwhal tusks. + +The Eskimos were equally elated with their part of the bargain. For a +beautiful fox skin, of less use to a native than a dog pelt, he could +secure a pocket knife that would serve him half a lifetime! + +A woman exchanged her fur pants, worth a hundred dollars, for a red +pocket handkerchief with which she would decorate her head or her igloo +for years to come. + +Another gave her bearskin mits for a few needles, and she conveyed the +idea that she had the long end of the trade! A fat youth with a fatuous +smile displayed with glee two bright tin cups, one for himself and one +for his prospective bride. He was positively happy in having obtained +nine cents' worth of tin for only an ivory tusk worth ninety dollars! + +With the coming of the midnight tide we lifted the schooner to an even +keel from the makeshift dry-dock on the beach. She was then towed out +into the bay by the launch and two dories, and anchored. + +Our first walrus adventures began in Wolstenholm Sound during the +beautiful nightless days of mid-August. The local environment was +fascinating. The schooner was anchored in North Star Bay, a lake of +glitter in which wild men in skin canoes darted after seals and +eider-ducks. On grassy shores were sealskin tents, about which fur-clad +women and children vied with wolf-dogs for favorite positions to see the +queer doings of white men. A remarkable landmark made the place +conspicuous. A great table-topped rock rose suddenly out of a low +foreland to an altitude of about six hundred feet. About this giant +cliff, gulls, guillemots and ravens talked and winged uproariously. The +rock bore the native name of Oomanaq. With the unique Eskimo manner of +name-coining, the village was called Oomanooi. + +Wolstenholm Sound is a large land-locked body of water, with arms +reaching to the narrow gorges of the overland sea of ice, from which +icebergs tumble ceaslessly. The sparkling water reflected the +surroundings in many shades of blue and brown, relieved by strong +contrasts of white and black. On the western sky line were the chiseled +walls of Acponie and other islands, and beyond a steel-gray mist in +which was wrapped the frozen sea of the Polar gateway. Fleets of +icebergs moved to and fro, dragging tails of drift bejeweled with blue +crystal. + +Far out--ten miles from our outlook--there was a meeting of the +currents. Here, small pieces of sea-ice slowly circled in an eddy, and +upon them were herds of walruses. We did not see them, but their shrill +voices rang through the icy air like a wireless message. This was a +call to action which Mr. Bradley could not resist, and preparations were +begun for the combat. + +The motor boat--the most important factor in the chase--had been +especially built for just such an encounter. Covered with a folding +whale-back top entirely painted white to resemble ice, we had hoped to +hunt walrus under suitable Arctic cover. + +Taking a white dory in tow, two Eskimo harpooners were invited to +follow. The natives in kayaks soon discovered to their surprise that +their best speed was not equal to ours--for the first time they were +beaten in their own element. For ages the Eskimos had rested secure in +the belief that the kayak was the fastest thing afloat. They had been +beaten by big ships, of course, but these had spiritual wings and did +not count in the race of man's craft. This little launch, however, with +its rapid-fire gas explosions, made their eyes bulge to a wondering, +wide-open, seal-like curiosity. They begged to be taken aboard to watch +the loading of the engines; they thought we fed it with cartridges. + +After a delightful run of an hour, a pan of ice was sighted with black +hummocks on it. "_Ahwek! Ahwek!_" the Eskimos shouted. A similar sound +floated over the oily waters from many walrus throats. The walruses were +about three miles to the southwest. At a slower speed we advanced two +miles more. In the meantime Mr. Bradley cleared the deck for action. The +direction of the hunting tactics was now turned over to My-ah. The mate +was at the wheel. I pushed the levers of the gasoline kicker. Our line +of attack was ordered at right angles to the wind. As we neared the +game, the engines were stopped. + +Looking through glasses, the sight of the gregarious herd made our +hearts quicken. They were all males of tremendous size, with glistening +tusks with which they horned one another in efforts for favorable +positions. Some were asleep, others basked in the sun with heads turning +lazily from side to side. Now and then, they uttered sleepy, low grunts. +They were quivering in a gluttonous slumber, while the organs piled up +their bank account of fat to pay the costs of the gamble of the coming +winter night. + +With muffled paddles the launch was now silently propelled forward, +while the kayaks stealthily advanced to deliver the harpoons. The Eskimo +reason for this mode of procedure is based on a careful study of the +walrus' habits. Its nose in sleep is always pointed windwards. Its ears +are at all times sensitive to noises from every direction, while the +eyes during wakeful moments sweep the horizon. But its horizon is very +narrow. Only the nose and the ear sense the distant alarm. We advanced +very slowly and cautiously, and that only when all heads were down. Our +boat slowly got within three hundred yards of the herd. Preparing their +implements to strike, the Eskimos had advanced to within fifty feet. The +moment was tense. Of a sudden, a tumultuous floundering sound smote the +air. The sleeping creatures awoke, and with a start leaped into the sea. +Turning their kayaks, the Eskimos paddled a wild retreat and sought the +security of the launch. The sport of that herd was lost to us. Although +they darted about under water in a threatening manner, they only rose to +the surface at a safe distance. + +Scanning the surroundings with our glasses, about two miles to the +south another group was sighted. This time Bradley, as the chief nimrod, +assumed direction. The kayaks and the Eskimos were placed in the dory. +Tactics were reversed. Instead of creeping up slowly, a sudden rush was +planned. No heed was taken of noise or wind. The carburetor was opened, +the spark lever of the magneto was advanced to its limit, and we shot +through the waters like a torpedo boat. As we neared the herd, the dory, +with its Eskimos, was freed from the launch. The Eskimos were given no +instructions, and they wisely chose to keep out of the battle. + +As we got to within two hundred yards, the canvas top of the launch fell +and a heavy gun bombardment began. The walruses had not had time to +wake; the suddenness of the onslaught completely dazed them. One after +another dropped his ponderous head with a sudden jerk as a prize to the +marksmen, while the launch, at reduced speed, encircled the +walrus-encumbered pan. Few escaped. There were heads and meat and skins +enough to satisfy all wants for a long time to follow. But the game was +too easy--the advantage of an up-to-date sportsman had been carried to +its highest degree of perfection. It was otherwise, however, in the +walrus battles that followed later--battles on the success of which +depended the possibility of my being able to assail the northern ice +desert, in an effort to reach the Polar goal. + +Oomanooi was but one of six villages among which the tribe had divided +its two hundred and fifty people for the current season. To study these +interesting folk, to continue the traffic and barter, and to enjoy for a +short time the rare sport of sailing and hunting in this wild region, +we decided to visit as many of the villages as possible. + +In the morning the anchor was raised and we set sail in a light wind +headed for more northern villages. It was a gray day, with a quiet sea. +The speed of the yacht was not fast enough to be exciting, so Mr. +Bradley suggested lowering the launch for a crack at ducks, or a chase +at walrus or a drive at anything that happened to cut the waters. His +harpoon gun was taken, as it was hoped that a whale might come our way, +but the gun proved unsatisfactory and did not contribute much to our +sport. In the fleet launch we were able to run all around the schooner +as she slowly sailed over Wolstenholm Sound. + +Ducks were secured in abundance. Seals were given chase, but they were +able to escape us. Nearing Saunders Island, a herd of walruses was seen +on a pan of drift ice far ahead. The magneto was pushed, the carburetor +opened, and out we rushed after the shouting beasts. Two, with splendid +tusks, were obtained, and two tons of meat and blubber were turned over +to our Eskimo allies. + +The days of hunting proved quite strenuous, and in the evening we were +glad to seek the comfort of our cosy cabin, after dining on eider-ducks +and other game delicacies. + +A few Eskimos had asked permission to accompany us to a point farther +north. Among them was a widow, to whom, for herself and her children, we +had offered a large bed, with straw in it, between decks, but which, +savage as she was, she had refused, saying she preferred the open air on +deck. There she arranged a den among the anchor chains, under a shelter +of seal skins. + +In tears, she told us the story of her life, a story which offered a +peep into the tragedy and at the same time the essential comedy of +Eskimo existence. It came in response to a question from me as to how +the world had used her, for I had known her years before. At my simple +question, she buried her face in her hands and for a time could only +mutter rapidly and unintelligibly to her two little boys. Then, between +sobs, she told me her story. + +Ma-nee--such was her name--was a descendant of the Eskimos of the +American side. A foreign belle, and, although thin, fair to look upon, +as Eskimo beauty goes, her hand was sought early by the ardent youths of +the tribe, who, truth to tell, look upon utility as more desirable than +beauty in a wife. The heart of Ma-nee throbbed to the pleadings of one +Ik-wa, a youth lithe and brave, with brawn and sinews as resilient as +rubber and strong as steel, handsome, dark, with flashing eyes, yet with +a heart as cruel as the relentless wind and cold sea of the North. +Ma-nee married Ik-wa and bore to him several children. These, which +meant wealth of the most valuable kind (children even exceeding in value +dogs, tusks and skins), meant the attainment of Ik-wa's selfish purpose. +Ma-nee was fair, but her hands were not adroit with the needle, nor was +she fair in the plump fashion desirable in wives. + +Ik-wa met Ah-tah, a good seamstress, capable of much toil, not +beautiful, but round and plump. Whereupon, Ik-wa took Ah-tah to wife, +and leading Ma-nee to the door of their igloo, ordered her to leave. +Cruel as can be these natives, they also possess a persistence and a +tenderness that manifest themselves in strange, dramatic ways. Ma-nee, +disconsolate but brave, departed. There being at the time a scarcity of +marriageable women in the village, Ma-nee was soon wooed by another, an +aged Eskimo, whose muscles had begun to wither, whose eyes no longer +flashed as did Ik-wa's, but whose heart was kind. To him Ma-nee bore two +children, those which she had with her on deck. To them, unfortunately, +descended the heritage of their father's frailities; one--now +eight--being the only deaf and dumb Eskimo in all the land; the other, +the younger, aged three, a weakling with a pinched and pallid face and +thin, gaunt arms. Ma-nee's husband was not a good hunter, for age and +cold had sapped his vigor. Their home was peaceful if not prosperous; +the two loved one another, and, because of their defects, Ma-nee grew to +love her little ones unwontedly. + +Just before the beginning of the long winter night, the old father, +anxious to provide food and deer skins for the coming months of +continuous darkness, ventured alone in search of game among the +mountains of the interior. Day after day, while the gloom descended, +Ma-nee, dry eyed waited. The aged father never came back. Returning +hunters finally brought news that he had perished alone, from a gun +accident, in the icy wilderness, and they had found him, his frozen, +mummied face peeping anxiously from the mantle of snow. Ma-nee wept +broken-heartedly. + +Ma-nee gazed into the faces of the two children with a wild, tragic +wistfulness. By the stern and inviolable law of the Eskimos, Ma-nee knew +her two beloved ones were condemned to die. In this land, where food is +at a premium, and where every helpless and dependent life means a +sensible drain upon the tribe's resources, they have evolved that +Spartan law which results in the survival of only the fittest. The one +child, because of its insufficient senses, the other because it was +still on its mother's back and under three at the time its father died, +and with no father to support them, were doomed. Kind-hearted as the +Eskimos naturally are, they can at times, in the working out of that +code which means continued existence, be terribly brutal. Their fierce +struggle with the elements for very existence has developed in them an +elemental fierceness. From probable experience in long-past losses of +life from contagion, they instinctively destroy every igloo in which a +native dies, or, at times, to save the igloo, they heartlessly seize the +dying, and dragging him through the low door, cast him, ere breath has +ceased, into the life-stilling outer world. + +This inviolable custom of ages Ma-nee, with a Spartan courage, +determined to break. During the long night which had just passed, +friends had been kind to Ma-nee, but now that she was defying Eskimo +usage, she could expect no assistance. Brutal as he had been to her, +hopeless as seemed such prospects, Ma-nee thought of the cruel Ik-wa and +determined to go to him, with the two defective children of her second +husband, beg him to accept them as his own and to take her, as a +secondary wife, a servant--a position of humiliation and hard labor. In +this determination, which can be appreciated only by those who know how +implacable and heartless the natives can be, Ma-nee was showing one of +their marvellous traits, that indomitable courage, persistence and +dogged hopefulness which, in my two later companions, E-tuk-i-shook and +Ah-we-lah, enabled them, with me, to reach the Pole. + +I admired the spirit of Ma-nee, and promised to help her, although the +mission of reuniting the two seemed dubious. + +Ma-nee was not going to Ik-wa entirely empty-handed, however, for she +possessed some positive wealth in the shape of several dogs, and three +bundles of skins and sticks which comprised her household furniture. + +We soon reached the village where Ma-nee was to be put ashore. Very +humbly, the heroic mother and her two frail children went to Ik-wa's +tent. Ik-wa was absent hunting, and his wife, who had supplanted Ma-nee, +a fat, unsociable creature, appeared. Weeping, Ma-nee told of her plight +and begged for shelter. The woman stolidly listened; then, without a +word, turned her back on the forlorn mother and entered her tent. For +the unintentional part we had played she gave us exceedingly cold, +frowning looks which were quite expressive. + +Ma-nee now went to the other villagers. They listened to her plans, and +their primitive faces lighted with sympathy. I soon saw them serving a +pot of steaming oil meat in her honor--a feast in which we were urgently +invited to partake, but which we, fortunately, found some good excuse +for avoiding. Although she had violated a custom of the tribe, these +people, both stern-hearted and tender, recognized the greatness of a +mother-love which had braved an unwritten law of ages, and they took her +in. Several months later, on a return to the village, I saw Ik-wa +himself. Although he did not thank me for the unwitting part I had +played in their reunion, he had taken Ma-nee back, and near his own +house was a new igloo in which the mother lived with her children. + +Resuming our journey, a snow squall soon frosted the deck of the yacht, +and to escape the icy air we retired early to our berths. During the +night the speed of the yacht increased, and when we appeared on deck +again, at four o'clock in the morning, the rays of the August sun seemed +actually warm. + +We passed the ice-battered and storm-swept cliffs of Cape Parry and +entered Whale Sound. On a sea of gold, strewn with ice islands of +ultramarine and alabaster, whales spouted and walrus shouted. Large +flocks of little auks rushed rapidly by. + +The wind was light, but the engine took us along at a pace just fast +enough to allow us to enjoy the superb surroundings. In the afternoon we +were well into Inglefield Gulf, and near Itiblu. There was a strong head +wind, and enough ice about to make us cautious in our prospect. + +We aimed here to secure Eskimo guides and with them seek caribou in +Olrik's Bay. While the schooner was tacking for a favorable berth in the +drift off Kanga, the launch was lowered, and we sought to interview the +Eskimos of Itiblu. The ride was a wet one, for a short, choppy sea +poured icy spray over us and tumbled us about. + +There were only one woman, a few children, and about a score of dogs at +the place. The woman was a remarkably fast talker, long out of practice. +She told us that her husband and the other men were absent on a caribou +hunt, and then, with a remarkably rapid articulation and without a +single question from us, plunged incessantly on through all the news of +the tribe for a year. After gasping for breath like a smothered seal, +she then began with news of previous years and a history of forgotten +ages. We started back for the launch, and she invited herself to the +pleasure of our company to the beach. + +We had gone only a few steps before it occurred to her that she was in +need of something. Would we not get her a few boxes of matches in +exchange for a narwhal tusk? We should be delighted, and a handful of +sweets went with the bargain. Her boy brought down two ivory tusks, each +eight feet in length, the two being worth one hundred and fifty dollars. +Had we a knife to spare? Yes; and a tin spoon was also given, just to +show that we were liberal. + +The yacht was headed northward, across Inglefield Gulf. With a fair +wind, we cut tumbling seas of ebony with a racing dash. Though the wind +was strong, the air was remarkably clear. + +The great chiselled cliffs of Cape Auckland rose in terraced grandeur +under the midnight sun. The distance was twelve miles, and it was twelve +miles of submerged rocks and shallow water. + +It was necessary to give Karnah a wide berth. There were bergs enough +about to hold the water down, though an occasional sea rose with a +sickening thump. At Karnah we went ashore. There was not a man in town, +all being absent on a distant hunting campaign. But, though there were +no men, the place was far from being deserted, for five women, fifteen +children and forty-five dogs came out to meet us. + +Here we saw five sealskin tents pitched among the bowlders of a glacial +stream. An immense quantity of narwhal meat was lying on the rocks and +stones to dry. Skins were stretched on the grass, and a general air of +thrift was evidenced about the place. Bundles of seal-skins, packages of +pelts and much ivory were brought out to trade and establish friendly +intercourse. We gave the natives sugar, tobacco and ammunition in +quantities to suit their own estimate of value. + +Would we not place ourselves at ease and stay for a day or two, as their +husbands would soon return? We were forced to decline their hospitality, +for without the harbor there was too much wind to keep the schooner +waiting. Eskimos have no salutation except a greeting smile or a parting +look of regret. We got both at the same time as we stepped into the +launch and shouted good-bye. + +The captain was told to proceed to Cape Robertson. The wind eased, and a +descending fog soon blotted out part of the landscape, horizon and sky. +It hung like a gray pall a thousand feet above us, leaving the air below +this bright and startlingly clear. + + + + +TO THE LIMITS OF NAVIGATION + +EXCITING HUNTS FOR GAME WITH THE ESKIMOS--ARRIVAL AT ETAH--SPEEDY +TRIP TO ANNOATOK, THE WINDY PLACE, WHERE SUPPLIES ARE FOUND IN +ABUNDANCE--EVERYTHING AUSPICIOUS FOR DASH TO THE POLE--DETERMINATION +TO ESSAY THE EFFORT--BRADLEY INFORMED--DEBARK FOR THE POLE--THE +YACHT RETURNS + +IV + +ALONE WITH OUR DESTINY, SEVEN HUNDRED MILES FROM THE POLE + + +We awoke off Cape Robertson early on August 13, and went ashore before +breakfast. The picturesque coast here rises suddenly to an altitude of +about two thousand feet, and is crowned with a gleaming, silver ice cap. +Large bays, blue glacial walls and prominent headlands give a pleasing +variety. It is much like the coast of all Greenland. On its southern +exposure the eroded Huronian rocks provide shelter for millions of +little auks. They dart incessantly from cliff to sea in a chattering +cloud of wings. Rather rich and grassy verdure offers an oasis for the +Arctic hare, while the blue fox finds life easy here, for he can fill +his winter den with the fat feathered creatures which teem by millions. + +The Eskimos profit by the combination, and pitch their camp at the foot +of the cliffs, for the chase on sea is nearly as good here as in other +places, while land creatures literally tumble into the larder. + +As we approached the shore, ten men, nine women, thirty-one children and +one hundred and six dogs came out to meet us. I count the children and +dogs for they are equally important in Eskimo economy. The latter are by +far the most important to the average Caucasian in the Arctic. + +Only small game had fallen to the Eskimos' lot, and they were eager to +venture out with us after big game. Mr. Bradley gathered a suitable +retinue of native guides, and we were not long in arranging a compact. + +Free passage, the good graces of the cook, and a knife each were to be +their pay. A caribou hunt was not sufficiently novel to merit a return +to Olrik's Bay, where intelligent hunting is always rewarded, but it was +hoped we might get a hunt at Kookaan, near the head of Robertson Bay.[4] + +Although hunting in the bay was not successful from a practical +standpoint, it afforded exciting pleasure in perilous waters. Even +during these hours of sport, my mind was busy with tentative plans for a +Polar journey. Whenever I aimed my gun at a snorting walrus, or at some +white-winged Arctic bird, I felt a thrill in the thought that upon the +skill of my arms, of my aim, and upon that of the natives we were later +to join, would depend the getting of food sufficient to enable me to +embark upon my dream. Everything I did now began to have some bearing +upon this glorious, intoxicating prospect; it colored my life, day and +night. I realized how easily I might fail even should conditions be +favorable enough to warrant the journey; for this reason, because of the +unwelcome doubt which at times chilled my enthusiasm, I did not yet +confide to Bradley my growing ambition. + +Returning to the settlement, we paid our hunting guides, made presents +to the women and children, and set sail for Etah. An offshore breeze +filled the big wings of the canvas. As borne on the back of some great +white bird, we soared northward into a limpid molten sea. From below +came the music of our phonograph, curiously shouting its tunes, classic +and popular, in that grim, golden region of glory and death. + +It is curious how ambition sets the brain on fire, and quickens the +heart throbs. As we sped over the magical waters, the wild golden air +electric about me, I believe I felt an ecstasy of desire such as mystics +achieved from fasting and prayer. It was the surge of an ambition which +began to grow mightily within me, which I felt no obstacle could +withstand, and which, later, I believe carried me forward with its wings +of faith when my body well nigh refused to move. We passed Cape +Alexander and entered Smith Sound. We sped by storm-chiselled cliffs, +whereupon the hand of nature had written a history, unintelligible to +humans, as with a pen of iron. The sun was low. Great bergs loomed up in +the radiant distance, and reflecting silver-shimmering halos, seemed to +me as the silver-winged ghosts of those who died in this region and who +were borne alone on the wind and air. + +Nature seemed to sing with exultation. Approaching a highland of emerald +green and seal brown, I heard the wild shouting of hawks from the +summit, and from below the shrill chattering of millions of auks with +baby families. And nearer, from the life enraptured waters, the minor +note of softly cooing ducks and mating guillemots. From the interior +land of ice, rising above the low booming of a sapphire glacier moving +majestically to the sea, rang the bark of foxes, the shrill notes of the +ptarmigan, and from an invisible farther distance the raucous wolf howl +of Eskimo dogs. + +Before us, at times, would come a burst of spouting spray, and a whale +would rise to the surface of the sea. Nearby, on a floating island of +ice, mother walrus would soothingly murmur to her babies. From invisible +places came the paternal voices of the oogzook, and as we went forward, +seals, white whales and unicorns appeared, speaking perhaps the sign +language of the animal deaf and dumb in the blue submarine. + +Occasionally, there was an explosion, when thunder as from a hundred +cannons echoed from cliff to cliff. A berg was shattered to ruins. +Following this would rise the frightened voices of every animal above +water. Now and then, from ultramarine grottoes issued weird, echoing +sounds, and almost continually rising to ringing peals and shuddering +into silence, reiterant, incessant, came nature's bugle-calls--calls of +the wind, of sundering glaciers, of sudden rushes of ice rivers, of +exploding gases and of disintegrating bergs. With those sounds pealing +in our ears clarion-like, we entered the "Gates of Hades," the Polar +gateway, bound for the harbor where the last fringe of the world's +humanity straggles finally up on the globe. + +As we entered Foulke Fiord, half a gale came from the sea. We steered +for the settlement of Etah. A tiny settlement it was, for it was +composed of precisely four tents, which for this season, had been +pitched beside a small stream, just inside of the first projecting point +on the north shore. Inside this point there was sheltered water for the +Eskimo's kayaks, and it also made a good harbor for the schooner. It is +possible in favorable seasons to push through Smith Sound, over Kane +Basin, into Kennedy Channel, but the experiment is always at the risk of +the vessel. + +So, as there was no special reasons for us to hazard life in making this +attempt, we decided to prepare the schooner here for the return voyage. + +These preparations would occupy several days. We determined to spend as +much of this time as possible in sport, since much game abounded in this +region. Before we landed we watched the Eskimos harpoon a white whale. +There were no unexplored spots in this immediate vicinity, as both +Doctor Kane and Doctor Hayes, in the middle of the last century, had +been thoroughly over the ground. The little auks kept us busy for a day +after our arrival, while hares, tumbling like snowballs over +wind-polished, Archæan rocks, gave another day of gun recreation. Far +beyond, along the inland ice, were caribou, but we preferred to confine +our hunting to the seashore. The bay waters were alive with eider-ducks +and guillemots, while, just outside, walruses dared us to venture in +open contest on the wind-swept water. + +After satisfying our desire for the hunt, we prepared to start for +Annoatok, twenty-five miles to the northward. This is the northernmost +settlement of the globe, a place beyond which even the hardy Eskimos +attempt nothing but brief hunting excursions, and where, curiously, +money is useless because it has no value. + +We decided to go in the motor boat, so the tanks were filled with +gasoline and suitable food and camp equipment were loaded. On the +morning of August 24, we started for Annoatok. + +It was a beautiful day. The sun glowed in a sky of Italian blue. A light +air crossed the sea, which glowed dully, like ground glass. Passing +inside of Littleton Island, we searched for relics along Lifeboat Cove. +There the _Polaris_ was stranded in a sinking condition in 1872, with +fourteen men on board. The desolate cliffs of Cape Hatherton were a +midsummer blaze of color and light that contrasted strongly with the +cold blue of the many towering bergs. + +As we went swiftly past the series of wind-swept headlands, the sea and +air became alive with seals, walruses and birds. We did little shooting +as we were eagerly bent on reaching Annoatok. + +As we passed the sharp rocks of Cairn Point, we saw a cluster of nine +tents on a small bay under Cape Inglefield. + +"Look, look! There is Annoatok!" cried Tung-we, our native guide. +Looking farther, we saw that the entire channel beyond was blocked with +a jam of ice. Fortunately we were able to take our boat as far as we +desired. A perpendicular cliff served as a pier to which to fasten it. +Here it could rise and fall with the tide, and in little danger from +drifting ice. + +Ordinarily, Annoatok is a town of only a single family or perhaps two, +but we found it unusually large and populous, for the best hunters had +gathered here for the winter bear hunt. Their summer game catch had been +very lucky. Immense quantities of meat were strewn along the shore, +under mounds of stone. More than a hundred dogs, the standard by which +Eskimo prosperity is measured, yelped a greeting, and twelve +long-haired, wild men came out to meet us as friends. + +It came strongly to me that this was the spot to make the base for a +Polar dash. Here were Eskimo helpers, strong, hefty natives from whom I +could select the best to accompany me; here, by a fortunate chance, were +the best dog teams; here were plenty of furs for clothing; and here was +unlimited food. These supplies, combined with supplies on the schooner, +would give all that was needed for the campaign. Nothing could have been +more ideal. + +For the past several days, having realized the abundance of game and the +auspicious weather, I had thought more definitely of making a dash for +the Pole. With all conditions in my favor, might I not, by one powerful +effort, achieve the thing that had haunted me for years? My former +failures dogged me. If I did not try now, it was a question if an +opportunity should ever again come to me. + +Now every condition was auspicious for the effort. I confess the task +seemed audacious almost to the verge of impossibility. But, with all +these advantages so fortunately placed in my hands, it took on a new and +almost weird fascination. My many years of schooling in both Polar zones +and in mountaineering would now be put to their highest test. + +Yes, I would try, I told myself; I believed I should succeed. I informed +Mr. Bradley of my determination. He was not over-optimistic about +success, but he shook my hand and wished me luck. From his yacht he +volunteered food, fuel, and other supplies, for local camp use and +trading, for which I have been thankful. + +"Annoatok" means "a windy place." There is really nothing there to be +called a harbor; but we now planned to bring the schooner to this point +and unload her on the rocky shore, a task not unattended with danger. +However, the base had to be made somewhere hereabout, as Etah itself is +still more windy than Annoatok. Moreover, at Etah the landing is more +difficult, and it was not nearly so convenient for my purpose as a base. + +Besides, there were gathered at Annoatok, as I have described, with +needed food and furs in abundance, the best Eskimos[5] in all Greenland, +from whom, by reason of the rewards from civilization which I could +give them, such as knives, guns, ammunition, old iron, needles and +matches, I could select a party more efficient, because of their +persistence, tough fibre, courage and familiarity with Arctic traveling, +than any party of white men could be. + +The possible combination of liberal supplies and valiant natives left +absolutely nothing to be desired to insure success, so far as +preliminaries were concerned. It was only necessary that good health, +endurable weather and workable ice should follow. The expenditure of a +million dollars could not have placed an expedition at a better +advantage. The opportunity was too good to be lost. We therefore +returned to Etah to prepare for the quest. + +At Etah, practically everything that was to be landed at Annoatok was +placed on deck, so that the dangerous stop beside the rocks of Annoatok +could be made a brief one. The ship was prepared for the contingency of +a storm. + +Late in the evening of August 26, the entire population of Etah was +taken aboard, the anchor was tripped, and soon the _Bradley's_ bow put +out on the waters of Smith Sound for Annoatok. The night was cold and +clear, brightened by the charm of color. The sun had just begun to dip +under the northern horizon, which marks the end of the summer double +days of splendor and begins the period of storms leading into the long +night. Early in the morning we were off Annoatok. + +The launch and all the dories were lowered and filled. Eskimo boats were +pressed into service and loaded. The boats were towed ashore. Only a few +reached Annoatok itself, for the wind increased and a troublesome sea +made haste a matter of great importance. Things were pitched ashore +anywhere on the rocks where a landing could be found for the boats. + +The splendid efficiency of the launch proved equal to the emergency, and +in the course of about thirteen hours all was safely put on shore in +spite of dangerous winds and forbidding seas. That the goods were spread +along the shore for a distance of several miles did not much matter, for +the Eskimos willingly and promptly carried them to the required points. + +Now the time had come for the return of the schooner to the United +States. Unsafe to remain longer at Annoatok at this advanced stage of +the season, it was also imperative that it go right on with barely a +halt at any other place. The departure meant a complete severance +between the civilized world and myself. But I do not believe, looking +back upon it, that the situation seemed as awesome as might be supposed. +Other explorers had been left alone in the Northland, and I had been +through the experience before. + +The party, so far as civilized men were concerned, was to be an +unusually small one. That, however, was not from lack of volunteers, for +when I had announced my determination many of the crew had volunteered +to accompany me. Captain Bartlett himself wished to go along, but +generously said that if it seemed necessary for him to go back with the +schooner, he would need only a cook and engineer, leaving the other men +with me. + +I wanted only one white companion, however, for I knew that no group of +white men could possibly match the Eskimos in their own element. I had +the willing help of all the natives, too, at my disposal. More than that +was not required. I made an agreement with them for their assistance +throughout the winter in getting ready, and then for as many as I wanted +to start with me toward the uttermost North. For my white companion I +selected Rudolph Francke, now one of the Arctic enthusiasts on the +yacht. He had shipped for the experience of an Arctic trip. He was a +cultivated young German with a good scientific schooling. He was strong, +goodnatured, and his heart was in the prospective work. These were the +qualities which made him a very useful man as my sole companion. + +Early on the morning of September 3, I bade farewell to Mr. Bradley, and +not long afterward the yacht moved slowly southward and faded gradually +into the distant southern horizon. I was left alone with my destiny, +seven hundred miles from the Pole. + + + + +BEGINNING PREPARATIONS FOR THE POLAR DASH + +THE ARCTIC SOLITUDE--RETROSPECTION AND INTROSPECTION--THE DETERMINATION +TO ACHIEVE--PLANNING OUT THE DETAILS OF THE CAMPAIGN--AN ENTIRE TRIBE +BUSILY AT WORK + +V + +THE POLE, THE ROUTE, AND THE INCENTIVE + + +When the yacht disappeared I felt a poignant pang at my heart. After it +had faded, I stood gazing blankly at the sky, and I felt the lure of the +old world. The yacht was going home--to the land of my family and +friends. I was now alone, and, with the exception of Francke, there was +no white man among this tribe of wild people with whom to converse +during the long Arctic night that was approaching. I knew I should not +be lonely, for there was a tremendous lot of work to do, although I had +unstinted assistance. In every detail, the entire six months of labor +including the catching of animals, the drying of meat, the making of +such clothes and sledges as would be necessary, and the testing of them, +would have to be managed by myself. Turning from the rocky highland +where I stood, a wild thrill stirred my heart. The hour of my +opportunity had come. After years of unavailing hopes and depressing +defeats my final chance was presented! In the determination to succeed, +every drop of blood in my body, every fibre of me responded. + +Why did I desire so ardently to reach the North Pole? What did I hope to +gain? What, if successful, did I expect to reap as the result of my +dreams? These questions since have been asked by many. I have searched +the chambers of my memory and have tried to resolve replies to myself. +The attaining of the North Pole meant at the time simply the +accomplishing of a splendid, unprecedented feat--a feat of brain and +muscle in which I should, if successful, signally surpass other men. In +this I was not any more inordinately vain or seekful of glory than one +who seeks pre-eminence in baseball, running tournaments, or any other +form of athletics or sport. + +At the time, any applause which the world might give, should I succeed, +did not concern me; I knew that this might come, but it did not enter +into my speculations. + +For years I had felt the lure of the silver glamor of the North, and I +can explain this no more than the reason why a poet is driven to express +himself in verse, or why one child preternaturally develops amazing +proficiency in mathematics and another in music. Certain desires are +born or unconsciously developed in us. I, with others before me, found +my life ambition in the conquest of the Pole. To reach it would mean, I +knew, an exultation which nothing else in life could give. + +This imaginary spot held for me the revealing of no great scientific +secrets. I never regarded the feat as of any great scientific value. +The real victory would lie, not in reaching the goal itself, but in +overcoming the obstacles which exist in the way of it. In the battle +with these I knew there would be excitement, danger, necessary +expedients to tax the brain and heroic feats to tax the muscles, the +ever constant incentive which the subduing of one difficulty after +another excites. + +During the first day at Annoatok, after the yacht left, I thought of the +world toward which it was going, of the continents to the south of me, +of the cities with their teeming millions, and of the men with their +multitudinous, conflicting ambitions. I could see, in my mind, the +gigantic globe of my world swinging in cloud-swept emerald spaces, and +far in the remote, vast, white regions in the north of it, far from the +haunts of men, thousands of miles from its populous cities, beyond the +raging of its blue-green seas, myself, alone, a wee, small atom on its +vast surface, striving to reach its hitherto unattained goal. I felt, as +I thought of my anticipation and lonely quest, a sense of the terrible +overwhelming hugeness of the earth, and the poignant loneliness any soul +must feel when it embarks upon some splendid solitary destiny. + +Beyond and above me I visioned the unimaginable, blinding white regions +of ice and cold, about which, like a golden-crowned sentinel, with face +of flame, the circling midnight sun kept guard. Upon this desolate, +awe-inspiring stage--unchanged since the days of its designing--I saw +myself attempting to win in the most spectacular and difficult marathon +for the testing of human strength, courage and perseverance, of body and +brain, which God has offered to man. I could see myself, in my fancy +pictures, invading those roaring regions, struggling over icy lands in +the dismal twilight of the Arctic morning, and venturing, with a few +companions, upon the lifeless, wind-swept Polar sea. A black mite, I saw +myself slowly piercing those white and terrible spaces, braving terrific +storms, assailing green, adamantine barriers of ice, crossing the +swift-flowing, black rivers of those ice fields, and stoutly persisting +until, successful, I stood alone, a victor, upon the world's pinnacle! + +This thought gave me wild joy. That I, one white man, might alone +succeed in this quest gave me an impetus which only single-handed effort +and the prospect of single-handed success can give. There was pleasure +in the thought that, in this effort, I was indebted to no one; no one +had expended money for me or my trip; no white men were to risk their +lives with me. Whether it resulted in success or defeat, I alone should +exult or I alone should suffer. I was the mascot of no clique of +friends, nor the pawn of scientists who might find a suppositious and +mythical glory in the reflected light of another's achievement. The +quest was personal; the pleasure of success must be personal. + +Yet, I want you to understand this thing was no casual jaunt with me. +All my life hinged about it, my hopes were bent upon it; the doing of it +was part of me. My plans of action were not haphazard and hair-brained. +Logically and clearly, I mapped out a campaign. It was based upon +experience in known conditions, experience gathered after years of +discouragement and failure. + +At Annoatok we erected a house of packing boxes.[6] The building of the +house, which was to be both storehouse and workshop, was a simple +matter. The walls were made of the packing boxes, especially selected of +uniform size for this purpose. + +[Illustration: ON THE CHASE FOR BEAR + +THE BOX-HOUSE AT ANNOATOK AND ITS WINTER ENVIRONMENT] + +[Illustration: MAN'S PREY OF THE ARCTIC SEA--WALRUS ASLEEP] + +Enclosing a space thirteen by sixteen feet, the cases were quickly piled +up. The walls were held together by strips of wood, the joints sealed +with pasted paper, with the addition of a few long boards. A really good +roof was made by using the covers of the boxes as shingles. A blanket of +turf over this confined the heat and permitted, at the same time, +healthful circulation of air. + +We slept under our own roof at the end of the first day. Our new house +had the great advantage of containing within it all our possessions +within easy reach at all times. When anything was needed in the way of +supplies, all we had to do was to open a box in the wall. + +The house completed, we immediately began the work of building sledges, +and the equally important work, at which a large proportion of the +Eskimos were at once set, of making up furs into clothing. According to +my plans, each one of us embarking in the Polar journey would have to +carry two suits of fur clothing. In the Arctic regions, especially when +men are marching to the limit of their strength every day, the bodily +heat puts the clothing into such condition that the only safe way, if +health is to be preserved, is to change suits frequently, while the +perspiration-soaked furs are laid out to dry. + +The Eskimos had also to prepare for winter. Tents of sealskin are +inhabitable only in the summer time. For the coming period of darkness +and bitter cold, they made igloos of stone and snow. + +Meanwhile, they were not in the least averse to agreeable relaxation. I +had with me a good supply of tea, and was in the habit of drinking a cup +of it with Francke about four o'clock every afternoon. Observing this, +the Eskimos at once began to present themselves at the tea hour. +Fortunately, tea was one of the supplies of which I had brought a good +deal for the sake of pleasing the natives, and it was not long before I +had a very large and gossipy afternoon tea party every day, in this +northernmost human settlement of the globe. + +I planned to superintend every detail of progress, as far as it +concerned our journey. I could watch the men, too, and see which ones +promised to be the best to accompany me. And, what was a most important +point, I could also perfect my final plans for the advance right at my +final base. + +I aimed to reach the top of the globe in the angle between Alaska and +Greenland, a promising route through a new and lonesome region which had +not been tried, abandoning what has come to be called the "American +Route." I should strike westward and then northward, working new trails. +With Annoatok as a base of operations, I planned to carry sufficient +supplies over Schley Land and along the west coast of the game lands, +trusting that the game along this region would furnish sufficient +supplies en route to the shores of the Polar sea. This journey to land's +end would also afford a test of every article of equipment needed in the +field work, and would enable us to choose finally from a selected +number of Eskimos those most able to endure the rigors of the unlimited +journey which lay before us. + +I sent out a few hunters along the intended line to seek for haunts of +game, but I was not surprised that their searching in the dark was +practically unsuccessful, and it merely meant that I must depend upon my +previous knowledge of conditions. I knew from the general reports of the +natives, and from the explorations of Sverdrup, that the beginning of +the intended route offered abundant game, and the indications were that +further food would likewise be found as we advanced. The readiness with +which the Eskimos declared themselves ready to trust to the food supply +of the unknown region was highly encouraging. + +To start from my base with men and dogs in superb condition, with their +bodies nourished with wholesome fresh meat instead of the nauseating +laboratory stuff too often given to men in the North, was of vital +importance; and if the men and dogs could afterwards be supported in +great measure by the game of the region through which we were to pass, +it would be of an importance more vital still. If my information was +well founded and my general conjectures correct, I should have +advantages which had not been possessed by any other leader of a Polar +expedition. The new route seemed to promise, also, immunity from the +highly disturbing effects of certain North Greenland currents. In all, +the chances seemed not unfavorable. + +With busy people hard at work about me, I knew that the months of the +long night would pass rapidly by. There was much to do, and with the +earliest dawn of the morning of the next year we must be ready to start +for the Pole. + + + + +THE CURTAIN OF NIGHT DROPS + +TRIBE OF TWO HUNDRED AND FIFTY NATIVES BUSILY BEGIN PREPARATIONS FOR THE +POLAR DASH--EXCITING HUNTS FOR THE UNICORN AND OTHER GAME FROM ANNOATOK +TO CAPE YORK--EVERY ANIMAL CAUGHT BEARING UPON THE SUCCESS OF THE +VENTURE--THE GREY-GREEN GLOOM OF TWILIGHT IN WHICH THE ESKIMO WOMEN +COMMUNICATE WITH THE SOULS OF THE DEAD + +VI + +THE SUNSET OF 1907 + + +Winter, long-lasting, dark and dismal, approached. To me it was to be a +season of feverish labor in which every hand at work and every hour +employed counted in the problem of success. While the hands of the +entire tribe would be busy, and while I should direct and help in the +making of sleds, catching of game, preparing of meat, I knew that my +mind would find continual excitement in dreams of my quest, in +anticipating and solving its difficulties, in feeling the bounding pulse +of the dash over the ice of the Polar sea, with dogs joyously barking, +whips cracking the air, and the reappearing sun paving our pathway with +liquid gold. In the labor of the long winter which I began to map out I +knew I should find ceaseless zest, for the pursuit of every narwhal, +every walrus, every fox I should regard with abated suspense, each one +bearing upon my chances; in the employment of every pair of hands I +should hang with an eager interest, the expediency and excellence of the +work making for success or failure. From this time onward everything of +my life, every native, every occurrence began to have some bearing upon +the dominating task to which I had set myself. + +With the advance of winter, storms of frightful ferocity began to arise. +Inasmuch as we had stored meat and blubber in large quantities about our +camp, it was not necessary at these times to venture out to dig up +supplies from great depths of snow drift. During these periods hands +were employed busily inside the igloos. Although a large quantity of +animals and furs had been gathered by the hunters before our arrival, we +now unexpectedly discovered that the supply was inadequate. According to +my plans, a large party of picked natives would accompany me to land's +end and somewhat beyond on the Polar sea when I started for my dash in +the coming spring. As spring is the best hunting season, it was +therefore imperative to secure sufficient advance provisions for the +families of these men in addition to preparing requisites for my +expedition. So the early days of the winter would have to be busily +occupied by the men in a ceaseless hunt for game, and later, even when +the darkness had fully fallen, the moonlight days and nights would thus +have to be utilized also. + +In the Polar cycle of the seasons there are peculiar conditions which +apply to circumstances and movements. As the word, seasons, is +ordinarily understood, there are but two, a winter season and a summer +season--a winter season of nine months and a summer of three months. + +But, for more convenient division of the yearly periods, it is best to +retain the usual cycle of four seasons. Eskimos call the winter +"ookiah," which also means year, and the summer "onsah." Days are +"sleeps." The months are moons, and the periods are named in accord with +the movements of various creatures of the chase. + +In early September at Annoatok the sun dips considerably under the +northern horizon. There is no night. At sunset and at sunrise storm +clouds hide the bursts of color which are the glory of twilight, and the +electric afterglow is generally lost in a dull gray. + +The gloom of the coming winter night now thickens. The splendor of the +summer day has gone. A day of six months and a night of six months is +often ascribed to the Polar regions as a whole, but this is only true of +a very small area about the Pole. + +As we come south, the sun slips under the horizon for an ever-increasing +part of each twenty-four hours. Preceding and following the night, as we +come from the Pole, there is a period of day and night which lengthens +with the descent of latitude. + +It is this period which enables us to retain the names of the usual +seasons--summer for the double days, fall for the period of the setting +sun. This season begins when the sun first dips under the ice at +midnight for a few moments. These moments increase rapidly, yet one +hardly appreciates that the sun is departing until day and night are of +equal length, for the night remains light, though not cheerful. Then the +day rapidly shortens and darkens, and the sun sinks until at last there +is but a mere glimmer of the glory of day. Winter is limited to the +long night, and spring applies to the days of the rising sun, a period +corresponding to the autumn days of the setting sun. + +At Annoatok the midnight sun is first seen on April 23. It dips in the +sea on August 19. It thus encircles the horizon, giving summer and +continuous day for one hundred and eighteen days. It sets at midday on +October 24, and is absent a period of prolonged night corresponding to +the day, and it rises on February 19. The Arctic air, with its low +temperature and its charge of frosted humidity, so distorts the sun's +rays that when low it is frequently lifted one or two diameters; +therefore, the exact day or hour for sunrise or sunset does not +correspond to mathematical calculations. Then follow days of spring. + +In the fall, when the harmonizing influence of the sun is withdrawn, +there begins a battle of the elements which continues until stilled by +the hopeless frost of early night. + +At this time, although field work was painful, the needs of our venture +forced us to persistent action in the chase of walrus, seal, narwhal and +white whale. We thus harvested food and fuel. + +Before winter ice spread over the sea, ptarmigan, hare and reindeer were +sought on land to supply the table during the long night with +delicacies, while bear and fox pleased the palates of the Eskimos, and +their pelts clothed all. + +Many long journeys were undertaken to secure an important supply of +grass to pad boots and mittens and also to secure moss, which serves as +wick for the Eskimo lamp. During the months of September and October, +along the entire Greenland coast, the Eskimos were engaged in a feverish +quest for reserve supplies. Shortly after my arrival, word had been +carried from village to village that I was at Annoatok, and, intending +to make a dash for the "Big Nail," desired the help of the entire tribe. +Intense and spontaneous activity followed. Knowing the demands of the +North, and of such work as I planned, the natives, without specific +instructions from me and with only a brief outline of the planned Polar +campaign which was sent from village to village, immediately got busy +gathering the needed things. They knew better than I where to go for +certain game, and where certain desirable things were obtainable. This +relieved me of a great responsibility. Each local group of natives was +to perform some important duty, suited to its available resources, in +gathering the tremendous amount of material required for our trip. Each +village had its peculiar game advantages. + +In some places foxes and hares, the skins of which were necessary for +coats and stockings, were abundant, and the Eskimos must not only gather +the greatest number possible, but prepare the skins and make them into +properly fitting garments. In other places reindeer were plentiful. The +skin of these was needed for sleeping bags, while the sinew was required +for thread. In still other places seal was the luck of the chase; its +skin was one of our most important needs. Of it boots were made, and an +immense amount of line and lashings prepared. + +Thus, in one way or another, every man and woman and most of the +children of this tribe of two hundred and fifty people were kept busy in +the service of the expedition. The work was well done, and with much +better knowledge of the fitness of things than could have been possessed +by any possible gathering of alien white men. + +The quest of the walrus and the narwhal came in our own immediate plan +of adventure, although the narwhal, called by whale fishers the unicorn, +does not often come under the eye of the white man. It afforded for a +brief spell good results in sport and useful material. Its blubber is +the pride of every housekeeper, for it gives a long, hot flame to the +lamp, with no smoke to spot the igloo finery. The skin is regarded as +quite a delicacy. Cut into squares, it looks and tastes like scallops, +with only a slight aroma of train oil. The meat dries easily, and is +thus prized as an appetizer or as a lunch to be eaten en route in sled +or kayak. In this shape it was an extremely useful thing for us, for it +took the place of pemmican on our less urgent journeys. + +Narwhals played in schools, far off shore, and usually along the edges +of some large ice field, their long ivory tusks rising under spouts of +breath and spray. Whenever this glad sight was noted, every kayak about +camp was manned, and the skin canoes went flittering like birds over the +water. Some of the Eskimos climbed to the ice fields and delivered their +harpoons from a secure footing. Others hid behind floating fragments of +heavy ice and made a sudden rush as the animals passed. Still others +came up in the rear, for the narwhal cannot easily see backward, and +does not often turn to watch its enemies, its speed being so fast that +it can easily keep ahead of them. + +In these exciting hunts I participated with eager delight, and by proxy +mentally engaged in every encounter. For, in this sea game, existed +food supplies which, instead of entirely confining myself to pemmican, I +planned also to use on my Polar journey. As the skin boats, like bugs, +sped over the water, I felt the movement of them surge in my brain; with +the upraising of each swift-darting native's arm I felt, as it were, my +heart stop with bated suspense. With every failure I experienced a throb +of dismay. With the hauling in of each slimy beast I felt, as it were, +nearer my goal. + +Narwhal hunting, in itself, and without the added spur of personal +interest, which I had, is brimful of thrilling sport. The harpoon is +always delivered at close range. Whenever the dragging float marks the +end of the line in tow of the frightened creature, the line of skin +canoes follows. Timid by nature and fearing to rise for breath, the +narwhal plunges along until nearly strangled. When he does come up, +there are likely to be several Eskimos near with drawn lances, which +inflict deep gashes. + +Again the narwhal plunges deep down, with but one breath, and hurries +along as best it can. But its speed slackens and a line of crimson marks +its hidden path. Loss of blood and want of air do not give it a chance +to fight. Again it comes up with a spout. Again the lances are hurled. + +The battle continues for several hours, with many exciting adventures, +but in the end the narwhal always succumbs, offering a prize of several +thousands of pounds of meat and blubber. Victory as a rule is not gained +until the hunters are far from home, and also far from the shore line. +But the Eskimo is a courageous hunter and an intelligent seaman. + +To the huge carcass frail kayaks are hitched in a long line. Towing is +slow, wind and sea combining to make the task difficult and dangerous. +One sees nothing of the narwhal and very little of the kayak, for +dashing seas wash over the little craft, but the double-bladed paddles +see-saw with the regularity of a pendulum. Homecoming takes many hours +and demands a prodigious amount of hard work, but there is energy to +spare, for a wealth of meat and fat is the culmination of all Eskimo +ambition. + +Seven of these ponderous animals were brought in during five days, +making a heap of more than forty thousand pounds of food and fuel. The +sight of this tremulous, blubbering mass filled my heart with joy. Our +success was not too soon, for now the narwhals suddenly disappeared, and +we saw no more of them. About this time three white whales were also +obtained at Etah by a similar method of hunting. + +With the advent of actual winter, storms swept over the land and sea +with such fury that it was no longer safe to venture out on the water in +kayaks. After the catching of several walruses from boats, sea hunting +now was confined to the quest of seal through young ice. As such hunting +would soon be limited to only a few open spaces near prominent +headlands, an industrious pursuit was feverishly engaged in at every +village from Annoatok to Cape York, and hour by hour, day by day, until +the hunt of necessity changed from sea to land, the husky natives +engaged in seal catching. As yet we had no caribou meat, and the little +auks, which had been gathered in nets during the summer, with the +eider-duck bagged later, soon disappeared as a steady diet. We must now +procure such available land game as hare, ptarmigan and reindeer, for we +had not yet learned to eat with a relish the fishy, liver-like substance +which is characteristic of all marine mammals. + +Guns and ammunition were now distributed, and when the winds were easy +enough to allow one to venture out, every Eskimo sought the neighboring +hills. Francke also took his exercise with a gun on his shoulder. + +The combined efforts resulted in a long line of ptarmigan, two reindeer +and sixteen hares. As snow covered the upper slopes, the game was forced +down near the sea, where we could still hope to hunt in the feeble light +of the early part of the night. + +With a larder fairly stocked and good prospects for other tasty meats, +we were spared the anxiety of a winter without supplies. Francke was an +ideal chef in the preparation of this game to good effect, for he had a +delightful way of making our primitive provisions quite appetizing. + +In the middle of October fox skins were prime, and then new steel traps +were distributed and set near the many caches. By this time all the +Eskimos had abandoned their sealskin tents and were snugly settled in +their winter igloos. The ground was covered with snow, and the sea was +almost entirely frozen. + +Everybody was busy preparing for the coming cold and night. The +temperature was about 20° below zero. Severe storms were becoming less +frequent, and the air, though colder, was less humid and less +disagreeable. An ice-foot was formed by the tides along shore, and over +this the winter sledging was begun by short excursions to bait the fox +traps and gather the foxes. + +Our life now resolved itself into a systematic routine of work, which +was practically followed throughout the succeeding long winter night. +About the box-house in which Francke and I lived were igloos housing +eight to twelve families. The tribe of two hundred and fifty was +distributed in a range of villages along the coast, an average of four +families constituting a community. Early each morning Koo-loo-ting-wah +would bang at my door, enter, and I would drowsily awaken while he +freshened the fire. Rising, we would prepare hot coffee and partake of +breakfast with biscuits. By seven o'clock--according to our standard of +time--five or six of the natives would arrive, and, after a liberal +libation of coffee, begin work. I taught them to help me in the making +of my hickory sleds. Some I taught to use modern carpentering +instruments, which I had with me. Another group was schooled in bending +the resilient but tough hickory. This was done by wrapping old cloths +about the wood and steeping it in hot water. Others engaged, as the days +went by, in making dog harness, articles of winter clothing, and drying +meat. Not an hour was lost during the day. At noon we paused for a bite +of frozen meat and hot tea. Then we fell to work again without respite +until five or six o'clock. + +Meanwhile, beginning in the early morning of our steadily darkening +days, other male members of the tribe pursued game. Others again +followed a routine of scouring of the villages and collecting all the +furs and game which had been caught. The women of the tribe, in almost +every dimly lighted igloo, were no less industrious. To them fell the +task of assisting in drying the fur skins, preparing dried meat and +making our clothing. Throughout the entire days they sat in their snow +and stone houses, masses of ill-smelling furs before them, cutting the +skins and sewing them into serviceable garments. This work I often +watched, passing from igloo to igloo, with an interest that verged on +anxiety; for upon the strength, thickness and durability of these +depended my life, and that of the companions I should choose, on the +frigid days which would inevitably come on my journey Poleward. But +these broad-faced, patient women did their work well. Their skill is +quite remarkable. They took my measurements, for instance, by roughly +sizing up my old garments and by measuring me by sight. Garments were +made to fit snugly after the preliminary making by cutting out or +inserting patches of fur. Needles among the natives are indeed precious. +So valuable are they that if a point or eye is broken, with infinite +skill and patience the broken end is heated and flattened, and by means +of a bow drill a new eye is bored. A new point is with equal skill +shaped on local stones. With marvelous patience they make their own +thread by drying and stripping caribou or narwhale sinews. + +Were it not for their extraordinary eyesight, such work, under such +conditions, would be impossible. But in the dark the natives can espy +things invisible to white men. This owl-sight enables them to hunt, if +necessary, in almost pitch darkness, and to perform tedious feats of +hand skill which, in such dim light, an alien would bungle. I noticed, +with much curiosity, that when the natives inspected any photograph or +object which I gave them they always held it upside down. All objects, +as is well known, are reflected in the retina thus, and it is our +familiarity with the size and comparative relations of things which +enables the brain to visualize an object or scene at its proper angle. +This strange, instinctive act of the natives might form an interesting +chapter in optics. + +Meanwhile, busy and interested in the beginning of our various pursuits, +the great crust which was to hold down the sea for so many months, +closed and thickened. + +During the last days of brief sunshine the weather cleared, and at noon +on October 24 everybody sought the open for a last glimpse of the dying +day. There was a charm of color and glitter, but no one seemed quite +happy as the sun sank under the southern ice, for it was not to rise +again for one hundred and eighteen days. + +Just prior to the falling of darkness, with that instinctive and forced +hilarity with which aboriginal beings seek to ward off an impending +calamity, the Eskimos engaged in their annual sporting event. It is a +curious sight, indeed, to behold a number of excited, laughing Eskimos +gathering about two champion dogs which are to fight. Although the zest +of betting is unknown, the natives regard dog fights with much the same +eager excitement as a certain type of sporting man does a cock +encounter. Sometimes the dogs do not fight fairly, a number of the +animals bunching together and attacking a single dog. Dogs selected for +the fight are, of course, the best of the teams. A dog which maintains +his fighting supremacy becomes a king dog, and when beaten becomes a +first lieutenant to the king. + +After the forced enthusiasm of this brief period of excitement, the +Eskimos begin to succumb to the inevitable melancholia of nature, when +the sun, the source of natural life, disappears and darkness descends. +A gloom descends heavily upon their spirits. A subtle sadness tinctures +their life, and they are possessed by an impulse to weep. At this +season, hour by hour, the darkness thickens; the cold increases and +chills their igloos; the wind, exultant while the sun shines, now whines +and sobs dolorously--there is something gruesome, uncanny, supernatural, +in its siren sorrow. Outside, the snow falls, the sea closes. Its +clamant beat of waves is silenced. Sea animals mostly disappear; land +animals are rare. Their source of physical supply vanished, the Eskimos +unconsciously feel the grim hand of want, of starvation, which means +death, upon them. The psychology of this period of depression partly +lies, undoubtedly, in this instinctive dread of death from lack of food +and the natural depression of unrelieved gloom. Moreover, there is a +grief, born of the native superstition that, when the sea freezes, the +souls of all who have perished in the waters are imprisoned during the +long night. Too fierce is the struggle of these people with the +elemental forces to permit them, like many other aboriginal peoples to +be obsessed greatly with superstitions. Although their religion is a +very primitive and native one, it is usually only at the inception of +night that they feel the appalling nearness of a world that is +supernatural. As the last rim of the sun sank over the southern ice, the +natives entered upon a formal period of melancholy, during which the +bereavements of each family, and the discomforts and disasters of the +year, were memoralized. + +I shall never forget that long, sad evening, which lasted many normal +days. The sun had descended. A sepulchral, gray-green curtain of gloom +hung over the chilled earth. In the dim semi-darkness could be vaguely +seen the outlines of the igloos, of the heaving curvatures of +snow-covered land, and the blacker, snake-like twistings of open lanes +of water, where the sea had not yet frozen. Sitting in my box-house, I +was startled suddenly by a sound that made my flesh for the instant +creep. I walked to the door and threw it open. Over the bluish, +snow-covered land, formed by the indentures and hollows, stretched +dark-purplish shapes--Titan shadows, sepulchral and ominous, some with +shrouded heads, others with spectral arms threateningly upraised. +Nebulous and gruesome shreds of blue-fog like wraiths shifted over the +sea. Out of the sombre, heavy air began to issue a sound as of many +women sobbing. From the indistinct distance came moaning, crooning +voices. Sometimes hysterical wails of anguish rent the air, and now and +then frantic choruses shrieked some heart-aching despair. My impression +was that I was in a land of the sorrowful dead, some mid-strata of the +spirit world, where, in this gray-green twilight, formless things in the +distance moved to and fro. + +There is, I believe, in the heart of every man, an instinctive respect +for sorrow. With muffled steps, I left the igloo and paced the +dreariness of ice, treading slowly, lest, in the darkness, I slip into +some unseen crevasse of the open sea. A strange and eerie sight +confronted me. Along the seashore, bending over the lapping black water, +or standing here and there by inky, open leads in the severed ice, many +Eskimo women were gathered. Some stood in groups of two or three. Bowed +and disconsolate, her arms about them, with almost every hundred steps, +I saw a weeping mother and her children. Standing rigid and stark, +motionless graven images of despair, or frantically writhing to and fro, +others stood far apart in desolate places, alone. + +The dull, opaque air was tinged with a strange phosphorescent green, +suggestive of a place of dead things; and now, like the flutterings of +huge death-lamps, along the horizon, where the sun had sunk, gashes of +crimson here and there fitfully glowed blood-red in the pall-like sky. + +To the left, as I walked along, I recognized Tung-wingwah, with a child +on her back and a bag of moss in her hand. She stood behind a cheerless +rock, with her face toward the faint red flushes of the sun. She stood +motionless. Big tears rolled from her eyes, but not a sound was uttered. +To my low queries she made no response. I invited her to the camp to +have a cup of tea, thinking to change her sad thoughts and loosen her +tongue. But still her eyes did not leave that last distant line of open +water. From another, I later learned that in the previous April her +daughter of five, while playing on the ice-foot, slipped and was lost in +the sea. The mother now mourned because the ice would bury her little +one's soul. + +A little farther along was Al-leek-ah, a woman of middle age, with two +young children by her side. She was hysterical in her grief, now +laughing with a weird giggle, now crying and groaning as if in great +pain, and again dancing with emotions of madness. I learned her story +from a chatter that ran through all her anguish. Towanah, her first +husband, had been drawn under the ice, by the harpoon line, twenty years +ago. And though she had been married three times since, she was trying +to keep alive the memory of her first love. I went on, marveling at a +primitive fidelity so long enduring. + +Still farther along towards the steep slopes of the main coast, I saw +Ahwynet, all alone in the gloomy shadow of great cliffs. Her story was +told in chants and moans. Her husband and all her children had been +swept by an avalanche into the stormy seas. There was a kind of wild +poetry in the song of her bereavement. Tears came to my eyes. The rush +of the avalanche, the hiss of the wind, the pounding of the seas, were +all indicated. And then, in heart-breaking tones, came "blood of her +blood, flesh of her flesh, under the frozen waters," and other +sentiments which I could not catch in the undertone of sobs. + +Cold shivers began to run up my spine, and I turned to retreat to camp. +Here was a scene that perhaps a Dante might adequately write about. I +cannot. I felt that I, an alien, was intruding into the realm of some +strange and mystic sorrow. I felt the sombre thrill of a borderland +world not human. These women were communicating with the souls of their +dead. To those who had perished in the sea they were telling, ere the +gates of ice closed above them, all the news of the past year--things of +interest and personal, and even of years before, as far back as they +could remember. Almost every family each year loses someone in the sea; +almost every family was represented by these weeping women, overburdened +with their own naive sorrow, and who yet strangely sought to cheer the +souls of the disconsolate and desolate dead. + +Meanwhile, while the women were weeping and giving their parting +messages to the dead, the male members of the tribe, in chants and +dramatic dances, were celebrating, in the igloos, the important events +of the past year. + +Inside, the igloos were dimly lighted with stone blubber lamps. These, +during the entire winter, furnish light and heat. The lamp consists of a +crescent-shaped stone with a concavity, in which there is animal oil and +a line of crushed moss as a wick. Lighted early in the season, for an +entire winter, these lamps cast a faint, perpetual, flickering light. +Shadows dance grotesquely about on the rounded walls. An oily stench +pervades the unventilated enclosure. In this weird, yellow-blackish +radiance the men engage in their fantastic dances. Moving the central +parts of their bodies to and fro, they utter weird sing-song chants. +They recite, in jerky, curious singing, the history of the big events of +the year; of successful chases; of notable storms; of everything that +means much in their simple lives. As they dance, their voices rise to a +high pitch of excitement. Their eyes flash like smoldering coals. Their +arms move frantically. Some begin to sob uncontrollably. A hysteria of +laughter seizes others. Finally the dance ends; exhausted, they pass +into a brief lethargy, from which they revive, their melancholia +departed. The women return from the shores of the sea; they wipe their +tears, and, with native spontaneity, forget their depression and smile +again. + +While I was interested in the curious spectacles presented, the sunset +of 1907 to me was inspiration for the final work in directing the +completion of the outfit with which to begin the conquest of the Pole at +sunrise of 1908. Fortunately, I was not handicapped by the company of +the usual novices taken on Polar expeditions. There were only two of us +white men, and white men, at the best, must be regarded as amateurs +compared with the expert efficiency of Eskimos in their own environment. +Our food supply contained only the prime factors of primitive +nourishment. Special foods and laboratory concoctions and canned +delicacies did not fill an important space in our larder. Nor had we +balloons, automobiles, motor sleds or other freak devices. We did, +however, I have said, have what was of utmost importance, an abundance +of the best hickory and metal for the making of the sleds upon which our +destinies were vitally to depend. + + + + +FIRST WEEK OF THE LONG NIGHT + +HUNTING IN THE ARCTIC TWILIGHT--PURSUING BEAR, CARIBOU AND SMALLER GAME +IN SEMI-GLOOM + +VII + +THE GLORY OF THE AURORA + + +The sun had dropped below the horizon. The gloom continued steadily to +thicken. Each twenty-four hours, at the approximate approach of what was +the noon hour when the sun had been above the horizon, the sky to the +south of us glowed with marvelous, subdued sunset hues. By this time our +work had gone ahead by progressive stages. Furs, to protect us from the +cold of the uttermost North on my prospective trip, had been prepared +and were being made into clothing; meat and fat, for food and fuel, were +being dried and stored in numerous caches about Annoatok; several of the +sledges and part of the equipment were ready. + +We still had need of large quantities of supplies, and, while some of +the natives were busy with their routine work, we planned that as many +others as possible should use the twilight days pursuing bear, caribou, +fox, hare and other game far beyond the usual Eskimo haunts. Before the +dawn of the sun's afterglow, on the morning of October 26, seven sledges +with sixty dogs were on the ice-foot near our camp, ready to start for +hunting grounds near Humboldt Glacier, a distance of one hundred miles +northward.[7] + +While the teamsters waited for the final password the dogs chafed +fiercely. I could barely see the outlines of my companions in the gloom, +and it was difficult, in the irregular snow and tide-lifted ice +descending to sea level, to find footing. + +The word to start was given. My companions took up the cry. + +"_Huk! Huk! Huk!_" (Go! Go!) they shouted. + +The dogs responded in leaps and howls. + +"_Howah! Howah!_" (Right! Right!) "_Egh! Egh!_" (Stop! Stop!) +"_Aureti!_" (Behave!) came echoingly along the line of teams. Finally +the wild dash slackened, the dogs regulated their paces to an easy trot, +and we swept steadily along the frozen highway of the tide-made shelf of +the ice-foot. The sledges dodged stones and ice-blocks, edged along +dangerous precipices, in the depths of which I heard the swish of water, +and glided miraculously over crevices and along deep gorges. Jumping +about the sledges, guiding, pushing, or retarding their speed, cracking +their whips in the air, the natives, with that art which only aborigines +seem to have, picked the way and controlled the dogs, but a few +generations removed from their wolf progenitors, with amazing dexterity. + +A low wind blew down the slopes and froze our breath in lines of frost +about our heads. The temperature was 35° below zero. To the left of us +was Kane Basin, recalling its history of human strife northward. It was +filled with serried ranges of crushed ice, a berg here and there, all in +the light of the kindling sky, aglow with purple and blue. To the far +west I saw the dim outline of Ellesmere, my promised land, over which I +hoped to force a new route to the Pole; upon its snowy highlands was +poured a soft creamy light from encouraging skies. To the right was the +rugged coast of Greenland, its huge, ice-chiselled cliffs leaping +portentously forward in the gloom. Thrilling with the race, we made a +run of twenty miles and reached Rensselaer Harbor, where Dr. Kane had +spent his long nights of misfortune. + +We pitched camp at the ice-foot at the head of the bay. Although we +found traces of hare and fox, it was too dark to venture on the chase. +The temperature had fallen to -40°, the wind pierced with a sharp sting. +For my shelter I erected a new tent which I had invented, and the +efficiency of which I desired to test. Taking the sledge frame work as a +platform, a folding top of strong canvas was fastened, and spread +between two bars of hickory from each end. The entrance was in front. +Inside was a space eight feet long and three and one-half feet wide, +with a round whaleback top. Inside this a supplementary wall was +constructed of light blankets, offering an air space of an inch between +the outer wall as a non-conductor to confine the little heat generated +within. As there was ample room for only two persons, Koo-loo-ting-wah, +my leading man, was invited to share the tent. The natives had not +provided themselves with shelter of any kind. They had counted on either +building an igloo or seeking the shelter of the snows, as do the +creatures of the wilds. + +Inside my tent I prepared a meal on the little German stove, burning the +vapor of alcohol. The meal consisted of a pail of hot corn meal, fried +bacon and a liberal all-round supply of steaming tea. To accomplish +this, which included melting the snow, heating the water, and cooking +everything separately, required about two hours. As I considered eating +outside with any degree of comfort impossible, my companions were +invited to crowd inside the tent. The vapor of their breath and that of +the cooking soon condensed into snow, and a miniature snowstorm covered +everything within. After this was swept out, the Eskimos were invited to +enter again. All partook of the meal ravenously, and then emerged to +reconnoiter the surroundings. Tracks of ptarmigan, hare and foxes were +found, and as we moved about with seeking, owl eyes, ravens shouted +notes of welcome. + +We then retired to rest. As there was no snow about that was +sufficiently hard to cut blocks with which to erect snow houses, the +natives placed themselves in semi-reclining positions on their sledges +and slept in their traveling clothes. After a few hours they awoke and +partook of chopped frozen meat and blubber; two hours later, they made a +fire in a tin can, with moss and blubber as fuel, and over this prepared +a pot of parboiled meat. A crescent-shaped wall of snow was built to +break the wind; in the shelter of this they sat, grinning delightedly, +and eating savagely, with much smacking of the lips, the steaming broth +and walrus meat. All this I studied with intense interest. I desired on +this trip not only to test my tent, but to learn more of the native +arts of the Eskimo, knowing that I, on my Polar trip, must, if I would +be successful, adapt myself to just such methods of living. + +This was my first winter experience of camping out in the night season +for this year, and, with only a diet of meal and bacon, I was miserably +cold. I was now testing also for the first time the new winter clothing +with which I and all my companions were dressed. Our shirts were made of +bird skins. Over these were coats of blue fox or caribou skins; our +trousers were of bear, our boots of seal, and our stockings of hare +skins. This was the usual native winter costume, but under it I had +added a suit of underwear. + +Retiring again for rest, I left instructions to be called for an early +start. It seemed that I had hardly settled comfortably in my sleeping +bag when the call for action came. + +We hastily partook of tea and biscuits, harnessed our teams and started +through the dark. The Eskimos, having eaten their fill of fat and frozen +meat, to which I must yet accustom myself, were thoroughly comfortable. +I was miserably cold. + +By running behind my sledge I produced sufficient bodily heat after +awhile to feel comfortable. My face suffered severely from the cutting +slant of the winds. We passed the perpendicular walls of Cape Seiper at +dawn. We ran along the long, straight coast into Bancroft Bay during the +six hours of twilight. The journey was continued to Dallas Bay by a +forced march of fifty miles before we halted. + +The scene displayed the rare glory of twilight charms as it had the day +before, but the snow was deeper, the temperature lower. The wind +steadily increased and veered northward. We made several efforts to +cross the bay ice, but cracked ice, huge uplifted blocks and deep snows +compelled a retreat to the ice-foot. + +The ice-foot along Smith Sound is a superb highway, where otherwise +sledge travel would be quite impossible along the coast. + +Along Dallas Bay we found a great deal of grass-covered land in +undulating valleys and on low hills, which offered grazing for caribou +and hare. The preceding glimmer of the new moon, which was to rise a few +days hence, offered sufficient light to search for game. + +We now fed our dogs for the first time since leaving Annoatok. After a +liberal drink of snow water, we started to seek our luck in the chase. +In the course of an hour my companions returned with four hares which, +when dressed, weighed about forty-eight pounds. Two of these were +cached. The others were eaten later. + +Before dawn of the day-long twilight the wind increased to a full gale. +The sky to the north, smoky all night, now blackened as with soot. The +wind came with a howl that brought to mind the despairing cries of the +dying explorers whose bleached bones were strewn along the shore. The +gloomy outline of the coast remained visible for awhile; but soon the +air thickened and came weighted with snow that piled up in huge drifts. + +The Eskimos took a few of their favorite dogs and sought shelter to the +lee of the tent, where drift covered their blankets with snow. Breathing +holes were kept open over their faces. Buried in snow drifts, they were +imprisoned for twenty-eight hours. But this tent sled sheltered +Koo-loo-ting-wah and myself. When the rush of the storm had abated we +began digging our way out. In this effort we dug up men and dogs like +potatoes from a patch. The northern sky had paled, the south was +brightening. The pack was lined with long lines beyond each hummock; the +snow was covered with a strong crust. But the ice-foot was a hopeless +line of drifts which made travel over it quite impossible. + +The work of pounding snow from the dogs and freeing the sledges brought +to our faces beads of perspiration which rolled off and froze in lines +of ice on our furs. We were none the worse as a result of the storm, and +although hungry as wolves, time was too precious to stop for a full +meal. + +We now pushed out of the bay, on to the sea ice. At this point the dogs +scented a bear and soon crossed its track. Rested and hungry, they were +in condition for a desperate chase. Their sharp noses pointed keenly +into the huge bear foot-prints, their little ears quivered, while, with +howls, they started onward in a mad rush. + +Neither our voices nor the whips made an impression on their wild speed. +We crossed banks and ridges of snow and swirled about slopes of ice, +gripping sledges violently. Now we were thrown to one side, again to the +other, dragging resistlessly beside the sleds. Rising, we gripped the +rear upstanders with fierce determination. + +Just how we escaped broken limbs, and our sledges utter destruction, is +a mystery to me. After a run of an hour we sighted the bear. The animal +had evidently sighted us, for he was galloping for the open water +toward the northwest. We cut the fleetest dogs loose from each team. +Freed, they rushed over the snow like race-horses. But the bear had an +advantage. As the first dog nipped his haunches he plunged into the +black waters. We advanced and waited for him to rise. But this bruin had +sense enough to emerge on the opposite shore, where he shook off the +freezing waters vigorously, and then sat down as if to have a laugh at +us. + +I knew that to plunge into the waters would have been fatal to dog or +man and equally fatal to a boat, as ice, in the intense cold, would form +about it so rapidly that it could not be propelled. + +The dogs sat down and howled a chorus of sad disappointment. For miles +about, the men sought fruitlessly for a way to cross. Outwitted, we +returned to continue our journey Northward. + +Advance Bay and its islands were in sight. Among these, we aimed to +place our central camp. The light was fading fast, and a cold wind came +from Humboldt Glacier, which at this time was located by a slight +darkening of the sky. Many grounded icebergs were about, and the sea ice +was much crossed. The hummocks and the snow were not as troublesome as +farther south. + +Two ravens followed us, their shrill cries echoing from berg to berg. +The Eskimos inferred from their presence that bears were near, but we +saw no tracks. + +The cries of the ravens were nearly as provoking to the dogs as the bear +tracks, and we moved along rapidly to Brook's Island. This was rather +high, with a plateau and sharp cliffs. Bonsall Island near by was +rounded by glacial action. Between them we found a place to camp +somewhat sheltered from the wind. + +While eating our ration of corn meal and bacon, howls of the dogs rose +to a fierce crescendo. I supposed they were saluting the coming of the +moon, as is their custom, but the howls changed to tones of increasing +excitement. We went out to inquire, but saw nothing. It was so dark that +I could not see the dogs twenty feet away, and the cold wind made +breathing difficult. + +"_Nan nook_" (Bear), the Eskimos said in an undertone. I looked around +for some position of defense. But the dense night-blackness rendered +this hopeless, so we took our position behind the tent, rifles in hand. +The bear, of an inquisitive turn of mind, deliberately advanced upon us. +"_Taokoo! taokoo! igloo dia oo-ah-tonie!_" (Look! look! beyond the +iceberg!) said the Eskimos. Neither the iceberg nor the bear was +visible. After a cold and exciting wait, the bear turned and hid behind +another iceberg. We separated a few of the best bear dogs from each +other. Bounding off, they disappeared quietly in the darkness. The other +dogs were fastened to the sledges, and away we started. + +I sat on To-ti-o's sledge, as he had the largest team. We jumped +crevasses, and occasionally dipped in open water. + +The track of the bear wound about huge bergs which looked in the +darkness like nebulous shadows. The dogs, of themselves, followed the +invisible line of tracks. + +Soon the wolfish dogs ahead began to shout the chorus of their battle. +We left the track in an air-line course for the dark mystery out of +which the noise came. To-ti-o took the lead. As we neared the noise, +all but two dogs of his sledge were cut loose. The sledge overturned, I +under it. As Koo-loo-ting-wah came along, he freed all his dogs. I +passed him my new take-down Winchester. + +Hurrying after To-ti-o, he had advanced only a few steps when To-ti-o +fired. Koo-loo-ting-wah, noting an effort of the bear to rise, fired the +new rifle. + +A flash of fire lit the darkness. Koo-loo-ting-wah rushed to me, asking +for the folding lantern. The smokeless powder had broken the new gun. +To-ti-o had no more cartridges. The bear, however, was quiet. We +advanced, lances in hand. + +The dogs danced wildly about the bear, but he managed to throw out his +feet with sufficient force to keep the canine fangs disengaged. The +other Eskimos now came, with rushing dogs in advance. To-ti-o dashed +forward and delivered the lance under the bear's shoulder. The bear was +his. He thereby not only gained the prize for the expedition, but, by +the addition of the bear to his game list, completed his retinue of +accomplishments whereby he could claim the full privileges of manhood. + +Among other things, it gave him the right to marry. He had already +secured a bride of twelve, but, without this bear conquest, the match +would not have been permanent. He danced with the romantic joy of a +young lover. We drove the dogs off from the victim with lashes, and fell +to and skinned and dressed the carcass. A taste was given to each dog. +The balance was placed on the sledges. Soon we were to camp, waiting for +the sled loads of bear meat. + +[Illustration: THE HELPERS--NORTHERNMOST MAN AND HIS WIFE] + +[Illustration: A MECCA OF MUSK OX ALONG EUREKA SOUND + +A NATIVE HELPER + +AH-WE-LAH'S PROSPECTIVE WIFE] + +On the day following we started to hunt caribou. The sky was beautifully +clear; the glacial wind was lost as we left the ice. The party scattered +among numerous old bergs of the glacier. Koo-loo-ting-wah accompanied +me. We aimed to rise to a small tableland from which I might make a +study of the surroundings. + +We had not gone inland more than a mile when we saw numerous fresh +caribou tracks. Following these, we moved along a steep slope to the +tableland above at an altitude of about one thousand feet. We peeped +over the crest. Below us were two reindeer digging under the snow for +food. The light was good, and they were in gun range. An Eskimo, +however, gets very near his game before he chances a shot, so, winding +about under the crest of a cliff or a snow-covered shelf of rocks, we +got to their range and fired. + +The creatures fell. They were nearly white, young, and possessed long +fur and thick skins, which we needed badly for sleeping bags. With +pocket knives, the natives skinned the animals and divided the meat in +three packs while I examined the surroundings. + +Part of the face of Humboldt Glacier, which extends sixty miles north, +was clearly visible in cliffs of a dark blue color. The interior ice ran +in waves like the surface of stormy seas, perfectly free of snow, with +many crevasses. An odd purplish-blue light upon it was reflected to the +skies, resembling to some extent a water sky. The snow of the sea ice +below was of a delicate lilac. Otherwise, sky and land were flooded with +the usual dominant purple of the Arctic twilight. + +This glacier, the largest in Arctic America, had at one time extended +very much farther south. All the islands, including Brook's, had at one +time been under its grinding influence. As a picture it was a charming +study in purple and blue, but the temperature was too low and the light +too nearly spent to venture a further investigation. + +The Eskimos fixed for me an extremely light pack. This was comfortably +placed on my back, with a bundle of thongs over the forehead. The +natives took their huge bundles, and, together, we started for camp. At +every rest we cut off slices of caribou tallow. I was surprised to find +that I had acquired a taste for a new delicacy. At camp we found the +natives, all in good humor, awaiting us beside heaps of meat and skins. +All had been successful in securing from one to two animals each in +regions nearer by. In a further search they had failed to find promising +tracks, so we proposed to return on the morrow, hoping to meet bears en +route. + +With the stupor of the gluttony of reindeer meat and the fatigue of the +long chase, we slept late. Awaking, we partook each of a cup of tea, and +packed and loaded the meat. Drawing heavy loads, the dogs gladly leaped +forward. The twilight flush already suffused the sky with incandescence. +Against the southeastern sky, glowing with rose, the great glaciers of +Humboldt loomed in walls of violet, while the sea displayed many shades +of rose and lilac, according to the direction of the light on the slope +of the drifts. + +Knowing that their noses pointed to a land of walrus, the dogs kept up a +lively pace. Not a breath of air was stirring. The temperature was -42°. +Aiming to make Annoatok in two marches, we ran behind the sledges to +save dog energy as much as possible. The cold enforced vigorous +exercise. But, weighted down by furs, the comfort of the sledges was +often sought to escape the tortures of perspiration. The source of light +slowly shifted along shadowed mountains under the frozen sea. Our path +glowed with electric, multi-colored splendor. + +By degrees, the rose-colored sky assumed the hue of old gold, the violet +embroideries of clouds changed to purple. The gold, in running bands, +darkened; the purple thickened. Soon new celestial torches lighted the +changing sheen of the snows. Into the dome of heaven swam stars of +burning intensity, each of which rivalled the sun in a miniature way. In +this new illumination the twilight fires lost flame and color. Cold +white incandescence electrically suffused the frigid sky. + +I strode onward, in that white, blazing air, the joy and beauty of it +enthralling my soul. I felt as though I were walking in a world of +heatless fire, a half supernatural realm such as that wherein reigned +the gods of ancient peoples. I felt as an old Norseman must have felt +when the glory of Valhalla burst upon him. For a long time I was +unconscious of the fatigue which was growing upon me. Finally, overcome +by the long forced march, I sank on my sled. The Eskimos, chanting +songs, loomed ahead, their forms magnified in the unearthly light. +Slowly a subtle change appeared along the horizon. Silent and impressed, +I watched the changing scenes and evolving lights as if all were some +divine and awe-inspiring stage arranged by God for some heroic drama of +man. + +New and warm with shimmering veils of color, attended by four radiant +satellites, the golden face of the moon rose majestically over the +sparkling pinnacles of the Greenland glaciers. Below, the lovely +planet-deflected images formed rainbow curves like rubied necklaces +about her invisible neck. As the moon ascended in a spiral course the +rose hues paled, the white light from the stars softened to a rich, +creamy glow. + +We continued our course, the Eskimos singing, the dogs occasionally +barking. Hours passed. Then we all suddenly became silent. The last, the +supreme, glory of the North flamed over earth and frozen sea. The divine +fingers of the aurora,[8] that unseen and intangible thing of flame, who +comes from her mysterious throne to smile upon a benighted world, began +to touch the sky with glittering, quivering lines of glowing silver. +With skeins of running, liquid fire she wove over the sky a shimmering +panorama of blazing beauty. Forms of fire, indistinct and unhuman, took +shape and vanished. From horizon to zenith, cascades of milk-colored +fire ascended and fell, as must the magical fountains of heaven. + +In the glory of this other-world light I felt the insignificance of +self, a human unit; and, withal I became more intensely conscious than +ever of the transfiguring influence of the sublime ideal to which I had +set myself. I exulted in the thrill of an indomitable determination, +that determination of human beings to essay great things--that human +purpose which, throughout history, has resulted in the great deeds, the +great art, of the world, and which lifts men above themselves. +Spiritually intoxicated, I rode onward. The aurora faded. But its glow +remained in my soul. + +We arrived at camp late on November 1. + +[Illustration] + + + + +THE MOONLIGHT QUEST OF THE WALRUS + +DESPERATE AND DANGEROUS HUNTING, IN ORDER TO SECURE ADEQUATE SUPPLIES +FOR THE POLAR DASH--A THRILLING AND ADVENTUROUS RACE IS MADE OVER FROZEN +SEAS AND ICY MOUNTAINS TO THE WALRUS GROUNDS--TERRIFIC EXPLOSION OF THE +ICE ON WHICH THE PARTY HUNTS--SUCCESS IN SECURING OVER SEVEN SLED-LOADS +OF BLUBBER MAKES THE POLE SEEM NEARER--AN ARCTIC TRAGEDY + +VIII + +FIVE HUNDRED MILES THROUGH NIGHT AND STORM + + +The early days of November were devoted to routine work about Annoatok. +Meat was gathered and dried in strips by Francke; a full force of men +were put to the work of devising equipment; the women were making +clothing and dressing skins; and then a traveling party was organized to +go south to gather an additional harvest of meat and skins and furs. For +this purpose we planned to take advantage of the November moon. Thus, in +the first week of the month, we were ready for a five-hundred-mile run +to the southern villages and to the night-hunting grounds for walrus. + +A crack of whips explosively cut the taut, cold air. The raucous, weird +and hungry howl of the wolf-dogs replied: "_Ah-u-oo, Ah-u-oo, +Ah-u-oo!_" rolled over the ice; "_Huk-huk!_" the Eskimos shouted. There +was a sudden tightening of the traces of our seven sledges; fifty lithe, +strong bodies leaped forward; and, holding the upstanders, the rear +upright framework of the native sledges, I and my six companions were +off. In a few moments the igloos of the village, with lights shining +through windows where animal membranes served as glass, had sped by us. +The cheering of the natives behind was soon lost in the grind of our +sledges on the irregular ice and the joyous, unrestrained barking of the +leaping, tearing, restless dog-teams. + +To the south of us, a misty orange flush suffused the dun-colored sky. +The sun, which we had not seen for an entire month, now late in November +far below the horizon, sent to us the dim radiance of a far-away smile. +After its setting it had, about noon time of each day, set the sky +faintly aglow, this radiance decreasing until it was lost in the +brightness of the midday moon. Rising above the horizon, a suspended +lamp of frosty, pearl-colored glass, the moon for ten days of +twenty-four hours, each month, encircled about us, now lost behind +ice-sheeted mountains, again subdued under colored films of frost +clouds, but always relieving the night of its gloom, and permitting, +when the wind was not too turbulent, outside activity. + +A wonderful animal is the sea-horse, or whale-horse, as the Icelanders +and Dutch (from whom we have borrowed "walrus") call it. In the summer +its life is easy and its time is spent in almost perpetual sunny dreams, +but in winter it would be difficult to conceive of a harder existence +than its own. Finding food in shallow Polar seas, it comes to permanent +open water, or to the crevasses of an active pack for breath. With but a +few minutes' rest on a storm-swept surface, it explores, without other +relief for weeks, the double-night darkness of unknown depths under the +frozen sea. At last, when no longer able to move its huge web feet, it +rises on the ice or seeks ice-locked waters for a needed rest. In +winter, the thump of its ponderous head keeps the young ice from closing +its breathing place. If on ice, its thick skin, its blanket of blubber, +and an automatic shiver, keep its blood from hardening. This is man's +opportunity to secure meat and fuel, but the quest involves a task to +which no unaided paleface is equal. The night hunt of the walrus is +Eskimo sport, but it is nevertheless sport of a most engaging and +exciting order. + +So that I might not be compelled to start on my dash stintedly equipped, +we now prepared for such an adventure by moonlight. Before this time +there had not been sufficient atmospheric stability and ice continuity +to promise comparative safety. My heart exulted as I heard the crack of +the whips in the electric air and felt the earth rush giddily under my +feet as I leaped behind the speeding teams. The fever of the quest was +in my veins; its very danger lent an indescribable thrill, for success +now meant more to me than perhaps hunting had ever meant to any man. + +Not long after we started, darkness descended. The moon slowly passed +behind an impenetrable curtain of inky clouds; the orange glow of the +sun faded; and we were surrounded on every side by a blackness so thick +that it was almost palpable. + +As I now recall that mad race I marvel how we escaped smashing sledges, +breaking our limbs, crushing our heads. We tumbled and jumped in a +frantic race over the broken, irregular pack-ice from Annoatok to Cape +Alexander, a distance of thirty miles as the raven moves, but more than +forty miles as we follow the sledge trail. Here the ice became thin; we +felt cold mist rising from open water; and now and then, in an +occasional breaking of the darkness, we could discern vast sheets or +snaky leads of open sea ahead of us. + +To reach the southern waters where the walrus were to be found, we now +had to seek an overland route, which would take us over the frozen +Greenland mountains and lead us through the murky clouds, a route of +twisting detours, gashed glaciers, upturned barriers of rock and ice, +swept by blinding winds, unmarked by any trail, and which writhed +painfully beyond us for forty-seven miles. + +Arriving at the limit of traversable sea-ice, we now paused before +sloping cliffs of glacial land-ice which we had to climb. Picture to +yourself a vast glacier rising precipitously, like a gigantic wall, +thousands of feet above you, and creeping tortuously up its glassy, +purple face, if such that surface could be called, formed by the piling +of one glacial formation upon the other in the descent through the +valleys, a twisting, retreating road of jagged ice strata, of earth and +stone, blocked here and there by apparently impassable impediments, +pausing at almost unscalable, frozen cliffs, and at times no wider than +a few yards. Imagine yourself pausing, as we suddenly did, and viewing +the perilous ascent, the only way open to us, revealed in the passing +glimmer of the pale, circling moon, despair, fear and hope tugging at +your heart. Whipped across the sky by the lashing winds, the torn +clouds, passing the face of the moon, cast magnified and grotesquely +gesticulating shadows on the glistening face of the icy Gibraltar before +us. Some of these misty shapes seemed to threaten, others shook their +rag-like arms, beckoning forward. Upon the face of the towering, +perpendicular ice-wall, great hummocks like the gnarled black limbs of a +huge tree twisted upwards. + +I realized that the frightful ascent must be made. The goal of my single +aim suddenly robbed the climb of its terrors. I dropped my whip. Six +other whips cracked through the air. Koo-loo-ting-wah said, "_Kah-Kah!_" +(Come, come!) But Sotia said, "_Iodaria-Iodaria!_" (Impossible, +impossible!) The dogs emitted shrill howls. Holding the rear upstanders +of the sledges, we helped to push them forward. + +Before us, the fifty dogs climbed like cats through narrow apertures of +the ice, or took long leaps over the serried battlements that barred our +way. We stumbled after, sometimes we fell. Again we had to lift the +sledges after the dogs. + +From the top of the glacier a furious wind brushed us backwards. We felt +the steaming breath of the laboring dogs in our faces. My heart thumped +painfully. Now and then the moon disappeared; we followed the unfailing +instinct of the animals. I realized that a misstep might plunge me to a +horrible death in the ice abysm below. With a howl of joy from drivers, +the dogs finally leaped to the naked surface of the wind-swept glacier. +Panting in indescribable relief, we followed. But the worst part of the +journey lay before us. The sable clouds, like the curtain of some +cyclopean stage, seemed suddenly drawn aside as if by an invisible hand. + +Upon the illimitable stretch of ice rising before us like the slopes of +a glass mountain, the full rays of the moon poured liquid silver. Only +in dreams had such a scene as this been revealed to me--in dreams of the +enchanted North--which did not now equal reality. The spectacle filled +me with both awed delight and a sense of terror. + +Beyond the fan-shaped teams of dogs the eyes ran over fields of +night-blackened blue, gashed and broken by bottomless canyons which +twisted like purple serpents in every direction. Vast expanses of smooth +surface, polished by the constant winds, reflected the glow of the moon +and gleamed like isles of silver in a motionless, deep, sapphire sea; +but all was covered with the air of night. In the moonlight, the jagged +irregular contours of the broken ice became touched with a burning gilt. +A constant effect like running quicksilver played about us as the moon +sailed around the heavens. + +Above us the ice pinnacles were lost in the clouds, huge billowy masses +that were blown in the wind troublously, like the heavy black tresses of +some Titan woman. I thrilled with the beauty of the magical spectacle, +yet, when I viewed the perilous pathway, I felt the grip of terror again +at my heart. + +I was aroused from my brief reverie by the familiar "_Huk-huk! Ah-gah! +Ah-gah!_" of the Eskimos, and placing our hands upon the sledges, we +leaped forward into the purple-gashed sea, with its blinding sheets of +silver. I seemed carried through a world such as the old Norsemen sang +of in the sagas. + +Of a sudden, as though extinguished, the moonlight faded, huge shadows +leaped onto the ice before us, frenziedly waved their arms and melted +into the pitch-black darkness which descended. I had read imaginative +tales of wanderings in the nether region of the dead, but only now did I +have a faint glimmering of the terror (with its certain, exultant +intoxication) which lost souls must feel when they wander in a darkness +beset with invisible horrors. + +Over the ice, cut with innumerable chasms and neck-breaking +irregularities, we rushed in the dark. The wind moaned down from the +despairing cloud-enfolded heights above; it tore through the bottomless +gullies on every side with a hungry roar. Beads of perspiration rolled +down my face and froze into icicles on my chin and furs. The temperature +was 48° below zero. + +Occasionally we stopped a moment to gasp for breath. I could hear the +panting of my companions, the labor of the dogs. A few seconds' inaction +was followed by convulsive shivering; the pain of stopping was more +excruciating than that of climbing. In the darkness, the calls of the +invisible Eskimos to the dogs seemed like the weird appeals of +disembodied things. I felt each moment the imminent danger of a +frightful death; yet the dogs with their marvelous intuition, twisting +this way and that, and sometimes retreating, sensed the open leads ahead +and rushed forward safely. + +At times I felt the yawning depth of ice canyons immediately by my +side--that a step might plunge me into the depths. Desperately I held +on to the sledges, and was dragged along. Such an experience might well +turn the hair of the most expert Alpinist white in one night; yet I did +not have time to dwell fully upon the dangers, and I was carried over a +trip more perilous than, later, proved the actual journey on sea-ice to +the Pole. + +Occasionally the moon peered forth from its clouds and brightened the +gloom. In its light the ice fields swam dizzily by us, as a landscape +seen from the window of a train; the open gashed gullies writhed like +snakes, pinnacles dancing like silver spears. By alternate running and +riding we managed to keep from freezing and sweating. We finally reached +an altitude of inland ice exceeding two thousand feet. Silver fog crept +under our feet. We were traveling now in a world of clouds. + +We paced twelve miles at a rapid speed. In the light of the moon-burned +clouds which rolled about our heads, I could see the forms of my +companions only indistinctly. The dogs ahead were veiled in the argent, +tremulous mists; the ice sped under me; I was no longer conscious of an +earthly footing; I might have been soaring in space. + +We began to descend. Suddenly the dogs started in leaps to fly through +the air. Our sleds were jerked into clouds of cutting snow. We jabbed +our feet into the drift to check the mad speed. On each side we saw a +huge mountain, seemingly thousands of feet above us, but ahead was +nothing but the void of empty space. Soon the sledges shot beyond the +dogs. We threw ourselves off to check the momentum. With dog +intelligence and savage strength judiciously expended, we reached the +sea level by flying flights over dangerous slopes, and, like cats, we +landed on nimble feet in Sontag Bay. + +A bivouac was arranged under a dome of snow-blocks, and exhausted by the +mad journey, a sleep of twenty-four hours was indulged in. + +Now, for a time, our task was easier. A course was set along the land, +southward. Each of the native settlements was visited. The season's +gossip was exchanged. Presents went into each household, and a return of +furs and useful products filled our sledges. Thus the time was occupied +in profitable visits during the feeble light of the November moon. With +the December moon we returned northward to Ser-wah-ding-wah. + +Then our struggle began anew for the walrus grounds. The Polar drift, +forcing through Smith Sound, left an open space of water about ten miles +south of Cape Alexander. This disturbed area was our destination. It was +marked by a dark cloud, a "water-sky"--against the pearly glow of the +southern heavens. The ice surface was smooth. We did not encounter the +crushed heaps of ice of the northern route, but there were frequent +crevasses which, though cemented with new ice, gave us considerable +anxiety, for I realized that if a northwesterly storm should suddenly +strike the pack we might be carried helplessly adrift. + +The urgency of our mission to secure dog food, however, left no +alternative. It was better to brave death now, I thought, than to perish +from scant supplies on the Polar trip. We had not gone far before the +ever-keen canine noses detected bear tracks on the ice. These we shot +over the pack surface in true battle spirit. As the bears were evidently +bound for the same hunting grounds, this course was accepted as good +enough for us. Although the trail was laid in a circuitous route, it +avoided the most difficult pressure angles. We traveled until late in +the day. The moon was low, and the dark purple hue of the night +blackened the snows. + +Of a sudden we paused. From a distance came a low call of walrus bulls. +The bass, nasal bellow was muffled by the low temperature, and did not +thump the ear drums with the force of the cry in sunny summer. My six +companions shouted with glee, and became almost hysterical with +excitement. The dogs, hearing the call, howled and jumped to jerk the +sledges. We dropped our whips, and they responded with all their brute +force in one bound. It was difficult to hold to the sledges as we shot +over the blackening snows. + +The ice-fields became smaller as we advanced; dangerous thin ice +intervened; but the owl-eyes of the Eskimos knew just where to find safe +ice. The sounds increased as we approached. We descended from the +snow-covered ice to thin, black ice and for a time I felt as if we were +flying over the open surface of the deep. With a low call, the dogs were +stopped. They were detached from the sledges and tied to holes drilled +with a knife in ice boulders. + +Pushing the sledges upon which rested the harpoon, the lance, the gun +and knives, each one of us advanced at some distance from his neighbor. +Soon, lines of mist told of dangerous breaks, and the ice was carefully +tested with the spiked shaft before venturing farther. I was behind +Koo-loo-ting-wah's sledge. While he was creeping up to the water's edge, +there came the rush of a spouting breath so near that we seemed to feel +the crystal spray. I took his place and pushed the sledge along. + +Taking the harpoon, with stealthy strides Koo-loo-ting-wah moved to the +water's edge and waited for the next spout. We heard other spouts in +various directions, and in the dark water, slightly lighted by the +declining moon, we saw other dark spots of spray. Suddenly a burst of +steam startled me. It was near the ice where Koo-loo-ting-wah lay. I was +about to shout, but the Eskimo turned, held up his hand and whispered +"_Ouit-ou._" (Wait.) + +Then, very slowly, he lowered his body, spread out his form on the ice, +and startlingly imitated the walrus call. His voice preternaturally +bellowed through the night. Out of the inky water, a walrus lifted its +head. I saw its long, white, spiral, ivory tusk and two phosphorescent +eyes. Koo-loo-ting-wah did not stir. I shivered with cold and +impatience. Why did he not strike? Our prey seemed within our hands. I +uttered an exclamation of vexed disappointment when, with a splash, the +head disappeared, leaving on the water a line of algae fire. + +For several minutes I stood gazing seaward. Far away on the black ocean, +to my amazement, I saw lights appearing like distant lighthouse signals, +or the mast lanterns on passing ships. They flashed and suddenly faded, +these strange will-o'-the wisps of the Arctic sea. In a moment I +realized that the lights were caused by distant icebergs crashing +against one another. On the bergs as on the surface of the sea, as it +happened now, were coatings of a teeming germ life, the same which +causes phosphorescence in the trail of an ocean ship. The effect was +indescribably weird. + +Suddenly I jumped backward, appalled by a noise that reverberated +shudderingly under the ice on which I stood. The ice shook as if with an +earthquake. I hastily retreated, but Koo-loo-ting-wah, lying by the +water's edge, never stirred. A dead man could not have been less +responsive. While I was wondering as to the cause of the upheaval, the +ice, within a few feet of Koo-loo-ting-wah, was suddenly torn asunder as +if by a submarine explosion. Koo-loo-ting-wah leaped into the air and +descended apparently toward the distending space of turbulent open +water. I saw him raise his arm and deliver a harpoon with amazing +dexterity; at the same instant I had seen also the white tusk and +phosphorescent eyes of a walrus appear for a moment in the black water +and then sink. + +The harpoon had gone home; the line was run out; a spiked lance shaft +was driven into the ice through a loop in the end of the line, and the +line was thus fastened. We knew the wounded beast would have to rise for +air. With rifle and lance ready, we waited, intending, each time a spout +of water arose, to drive holes into the tough armor of skin until the +beast's vitals were tapped. By feeling the line, I could sense the +struggles of the wild creature below in the depths of the sea. Then the +line would slacken, a spout of steam would rise from the water, +Koo-loo-ting-wah would drive a spear, I a shot from my gun. The air +would become oppressive with the creature's frightful bellowing. Then +would come an interval of silence. + +For about two hours we kept up the battle. Then the line slackened, +Koo-loo-ting-wah called the others, and together we drew the huge +carcass, steaming with blood, to the surface of the ice. Smelling the +odorous wet blood, the dogs exultantly howled. + +Falling upon the animal, the natives, trained in the art, with sharp +knives had soon dressed the thick meat and blubber from the bones and +lashed the weltering mass on a sledge. This done, with quick despatch, +they separated, dashed along the edge of the ice, casting harpoons +whenever the small geysers appeared on the water. We were in excellent +luck. One walrus after another was dragged lumberingly on the ice, and +in the course of several hours the seven sledges were heavily loaded +with the precious supplies which would now enable me, liberally +equipped, to start Poleward. We gave our dogs a light meal, and started +landward, leaving great piles of walrus meat behind us on the ice. + +Although we were tired on reaching land, we began to build several +snow-houses in which to sleep. Not far away was an Eskimo village. +Summoning the natives to help us bring in the spoils of the hunt which +had been left on the ice, we first indulged in a gluttonous feast of +uncooked meat, in which the dogs ravenously joined. The meat tasted like +train-oil. The work of bringing in the meat and blubber and caching it +for subsequent gathering was hardly finished when, from the ominous, +glacial-covered highlands, a winter blast suddenly began to come with +terrific and increasing fury. + +Blinding gusts of snow whipped the frozen earth. The wind shrieked +fiendishly. Above its roar, not three hours after our last trip on the +ice, a resounding, crashing noise rose above the storm. Braving the +blasts, I went outside the igloo. Through the darkness I could see white +curvatures of piling sea-ice. I could hear the rush and crashing of huge +floes and glaciers being carried seaward. Had we waited another day, had +we been out on the ice seeking walrus just twenty-four hours after our +successful hunt, we should have been carried away in the sudden roaring +gale, and hopelessly perished in the wind-swept deep. + +During the night, or hours usually allotted to rest, the noise continued +unabated. I failed to sleep. Now and then, a crashing noise shivered +through the storm. An igloo from the nearby settlement was swept into +the sea. During the gale many of the natives who had retired with their +clothes hung out to dry, awoke to find that the wind had robbed them of +their valuable winter furs. + +Some time along in the course of the night, I heard outside excited +Eskimos shouting. There was terror in the voices. Arising and dressing +hastily, I rushed into the teeth of the storm. Not far away were a +number of natives rushing along the land some twenty feet beneath which +the sea lapped the land-ice with furious tongues. They had cast lines +into the sea and were shouting, it seemed, to someone who was struggling +in the hopeless, frigid tumult of water. + +I soon learned of the dreadful catastrophe. Ky-un-a, an old and cautious +native, awakened by the storm a brief while before, after dressing +himself, ventured outside his stone house to secure articles which he +had left there. As was learned later, he had just tied his sledge to a +rock when a gust of wind resistlessly rushed seaward, lifted the aged +man from his feet, and dropped him into the sea. Through the storm, his +dreadful cries attracted his companions. Some who were now tugging at +the lines, were barely covered with fur rugs which they had thrown about +them, and their limbs were partly bare. Now and then, a blinding gust of +wind, filled with freezing snow crystals, almost lifted us from our +feet. The sea lapped its tongues sickeningly below us. + +Finally a limp body, ice-sheeted, dripping with water, yet clinging with +its mummied frozen hands to the line, was hauled up on the ice. Ky-un-a, +unconscious, was carried to his house about five hundred feet away. +There, after wrapping him in furs, in a brave effort to save his life, +the natives cut open his fur garments. The fur, frozen solid by the +frigid blasts in the brief period which had elapsed since his being +lifted from the water, took with it, in parting from his body, long +patches of skin, leaving the quivering raw flesh exposed as though by a +burn. For three days the aged man lay dying, suffering excruciating +tortures, the victim of merely a common accident, which at any time may +happen to anyone of these Spartan people. I shall never forget the +harrowing moans of the suffering man piercing the storm. Perhaps it had +been merciful to let him perish in the sea. + +Ky-un-a's old home was some forty miles distant. To it, that he might +die there, he desired to go. On the fourth day after the accident, he +was placed in a litter, covered with warm furs, and borne over the +smooth icefields. I shall never forget that dismal and solemn +procession. A benign calm prevailed over land and sea. The orange glow +of a luxurious moon set the ice coldly aflame. Long shadows, like +spectral mourners, robed in purple, loomed before the tiny procession. +Now and then, as they dwindled in the distance, I saw them, like black +dots, crossing areas of polished ice which glowed like mirror lakes of +silver. From the distance, softly shuddered the decreasing moans of the +dying man; then there was silence. I marvelled again upon the lure of +this eerily, weirdly beautiful land, where, always imminent, death can +be so terrible. + +[Illustration] + + + + +MIDNIGHT AND MID-WINTER + +THE EQUIPMENT AND ITS PROBLEMS--NEW ART IN THE MAKING OF SLEDGES +COMBINING LIGHTNESS--PROGRESS OF THE PREPARATIONS--CHRISTMAS, WITH +ITS GLAD TIDINGS AND AUGURIES FOR SUCCESS IN QUEST OF THE POLE + +IX + +THE COMING OF THE ESKIMO STORK + + +In planning for the Polar dash I appreciated fully the vital importance +of sledges. These, I realized, must possess, to an ultimate degree, the +combined strength of steel with the lightness and elasticity of the +strongest wood. The sledge must neither be flimsy nor bulky; nor should +it be heavy or rigid. After a careful study of the art of +sledge-traveling from the earliest time to the present day, after years +of sledging and sledge observation in Greenland, the Antarctic and +Alaska, I came to the conclusion that success was dependent, not upon +any one type of sledge, but upon local fitness. + +All natives of the frigid wilds have devised sledges, traveling and camp +equipment to fit their local needs. The collective lessons of ages are +to be read in this development of primitive sledge traveling. If these +wild people had been provided with the best material from which to work +out their hard problems of life, then it is probable that their methods +could not be improved. But neither the Indian nor the Eskimo was ever in +possession of either the tools or the raw material to fit their +inventive genius for making the best equipment. Therefore, I had studied +first the accumulated results of the sledge of primitive man and from +this tried to construct a sledge with its accessories in which were +included the advantages of up-to-date mechanics with the use of the most +durable material which a search of the entire globe had afforded me.[9] + +The McClintock sledges, made of bent wood with wide runners, had been +adopted by nearly all explorers, under different names and with +considerable modifications, for fifty years. This sledge is still the +best type for deep soft snow conditions, for which it was originally +intended. But such snow is not often found on the ice of the Polar sea. +The native sledge which Peary copied, although well adapted to local use +along the ice-foot and the land-adhering pack, is not the best sledge +for a trans-boreal run. This is because it is too heavy and too easily +broken, and breakable in such a way that it cannot be quickly repaired. + +For the Arctic pack, a sledge must be of a moderate length, with +considerable width. Narrow runners offer less friction and generally +give sufficient bearing surface. The other qualities vital to quick +movement and durability are lightness, elasticity and interchangeability +of parts. All of these conditions I planned to meet in a new pattern of +sledge which should combine the durability of the Eskimo sledges and the +lightness of the Yukon sledge of Alaska. + +The making of a suitable sledge caused me a good deal of concern. Before +leaving New York I had taken the precaution of selecting an abundance of +the best hickory wood in approximately correct sizes for sledge +construction. Suitable tools had also been provided. Now, as the long +winter with its months of darkness curtailed the time of outside +movement, the box-house was refitted as a workshop. From eight to ten +men were at the benches, eight hours each day, shaping and bending +runners, fitting and lashing interchangeable cross bars and posts, and +riveting the iron shoes. Thus the sledge parts were manufactured to +possess the same facilities to fit not only all other sledges, but also +other parts of the same sledge. If, therefore, part of a sledge should +be broken, other parts of a discarded sledge could offer repair sections +easily. + +The general construction of this new sledge is easily understood from +the various photographs presented. All joints were made elastic by +seal-thong lashings. The sledges were twelve feet long and thirty inches +wide; the runners had a width of an inch and an eighth. Each part and +each completed sledge was thoroughly tested before it was finally loaded +for the long run. For dog harness, the Greenland Eskimo pattern was +adopted. But canine habits are such that when rations are reduced to +minimum limits the leather strips disappear as food. To obviate this +disaster, the shoulder straps were made of folds of strong canvas, while +the traces were cut from cotton log line. + +A boat is an important adjunct to every sledge expedition which hopes to +venture far from its base of operations. It is a matter of necessity, +even when following a coast line, as was shown by the mishap of Mylius +Erickson, for if he had had a boat he would himself have returned to +tell the story of the Danish Expedition to East Greenland. + +Need for a boat comes with the changing conditions of the advancing +season. Things must be carried for several months for a chance use in +the last stages of the return. But since food supplies are necessarily +limited, delay is fatal, and therefore, when open water prevents +advance, a boat is so vitally necessary as to become a life preserver. +Foolish indeed is the explorer who pays slight attention to this +important problem. + +The transportation of a boat, however, offers many serious difficulties. +Nansen introduced the kayak, and most explorers since have followed his +example. The Eskimo canoe serves the purpose very well, but to carry it +for three months without hopeless destruction requires so tremendous an +amount of energy as to make the task practically impossible. + +Sectional boats, aluminum boats, skin floats and other devices had been +tried, but to all there is the same fatal objection on a Polar trip, of +impossible transportation. But it seems odd that the ordinary folding +canvas boat has not been pressed into this service. + +We found such a canoe boat to fit the situation exactly, and selected a +twelve-foot Eureka-shaped boat with wooden frame. The slats, spreaders +and floor-pieces were utilized as parts of sledges. The canvas cover +served as a floor cloth for our sleeping bags. Thus the boat did useful +service for a hundred days and never seemed needlessly cumbersome. When +the craft was finally spread for use as a boat, in it we carried the +sledge, in it we sought game for food, and in it or under it we camped. +Without it we could never have returned. + +Even more vital than the choice of sledges, more vital than anything +else, I knew, in such a trip as I proposed, is the care of the stomach. +From the published accounts of Arctic traveling it is impossible to +learn a fitting ration, and I hasten to add that I well realized that +our own experience may not solve the problem for future expeditions. The +gastronomic need differs with every man. It differs with every +expedition, and it is radically different with every nation. Thus, when +De Gerlache, with good intentions, forced Norwegian food into French +stomachs, he learned that there is a nationality in gastronomics. Nor is +it safe to listen to scientific advice, for the stomach is arbitrary, +and stands as autocrat over every human sense and passion and will not +easily yield to dictates. + +In this respect, as in others, I was helped very much by the natives. +The Eskimo is ever hungry, but his taste is normal. Things of doubtful +value in nutrition form no part in his dietary. Animal food, consisting +of meat and fat, is entirely satisfactory as a steady diet without other +adjuncts. His food requires neither salt nor sugar, nor is cooking a +matter of necessity. + +Quantity is important, but quality applies only to the relative +proportion of fat. With this key to gastronomics, pemmican was selected +as the staple food, and it would also serve equally well for the dogs. + +We had an ample supply of pemmican, which was made of pounded dried +beef, sprinkled with a few raisins and some currants, and slightly +sweetened with sugar. This mixture was cemented together with heated +beef tallow and run into tin cans containing six pounds each. + +This combination was invented by the American Indian, and the supply for +this expedition was made by Armour of Chicago after a formula furnished +by Captain Evelyn B. Baldwin. Pemmican had been used before as part of +the long list of foodstuffs for Arctic expeditions, but with us there +was the important difference that it was to be almost entirely the whole +bill of fare when away from game haunts. The palate surprises in our +store were few. + +By the time Christmas approached I had reason indeed for rejoicing. +Although this happy season meant little to me as a holiday of +gift-giving and feasting, it came with auguries for success in the thing +my heart most dearly desired, and compared to which earth had nothing +more alluring to give. + +Our equipment was now about complete. In the box house were tiers of new +sledges, rows of boxes and piles of bags filled with clothing, canned +supplies, dried meat, and sets of strong dog harness. The food, fuel +and camp equipment for the Polar dash were ready. Everything had been +thoroughly tested and put aside for a final examination. Elated by our +success, and filled with gratitude to the faithful natives, I declared a +week of holidays, with rejoicing and feasting. Feasting was at this time +especially desirable, for we had now to fatten up for the anticipated +race. + +Christmas day in the Arctic does not dawn with the glow which children +in waking early to seek their bedecked tree, view outside their windows +in more southern lands. Both Christmas day and Christmas night are +black. Only the stars keep their endless watch in the cold skies. + +Standing outside my igloo on the happy night, I gazed at the Pole Star, +the guardian of the goal I sought, and I remembered with a thrill the +story of that mysterious star the Wise Men had followed, of the wonders +to which it led them, and I felt an awed reverence for the Power that +set these unfaltering beacons above the earth and had written in their +golden traces, with a burning pen, veiled and unrevealed destinies which +men for ages have tried to learn. + +I retired to sleep with thoughts of home. I thought of my children, and +the bated expectancy with which they were now going to bed, of their +hopefulness of the morrow, and the unbounded joy they would have in +gifts to which I could not contribute. I think tears that night wet my +pillow of furs. But I would give them, if I did not fail, the gift of a +father's achievement, of which, with a glow, I felt they should be +proud. + +The next morning the natives arrived at the box house early. It had +been cleared of seamstresses and workmen the day before, and put in +comparatively spick and span order. I had told the natives they were to +feed to repletion during the week of holiday, an injunction to the +keeping of which they did not need much urging. + +Early Christmas morning, men and women began working overtime on the two +festive meals which were to begin that day and continue daily. + +About this time, the most important duty of our working force had been +to uncover caches and dig up piles of frozen meat and blubber. Of this, +which possesses the flavor and odor of Limburger cheese, and also the +advantage, if such it be, of intoxicating them, the natives are +particularly fond. While a woman held a native torch of moss dipped in +oils and pierced with a stick, the men, by means of iron bars and picks, +dug up boulders of meat just as coal is forced from mines. + +A weird spectacle was this, the soft light of the blubber lamp dancing +on the spotless snows, the soot-covered faces of the natives grinning +while they worked. The blubber was taken close to their igloos and +placed on raised platforms of snow, so as to be out of reach of the +dogs. Of this meat and blubber, which was served raw, partially thawed, +cooked and also frozen, the natives partook during most of their waking +hours. They enjoyed it, indeed, as much as turkey was being relished in +my far-away home. + +Moreover they had, what was an important delicacy, native ice cream. +This would not, of course, please the palate of those accustomed to the +American delicacy, but to the Eskimo maiden it possesses all the lure +of creams, sherberts or ice cream sodas. With us, sugar in the process +of digestion turns into fat, and fat into body fuel. The Eskimo, having +no sugar, yearns for fat, and it comes with the taste of sweets. + +The making of native ice cream is quite a task. I watched the process of +making it Christmas day with amused interest. The native women must have +a mixture of oils from the seal, walrus and narwhal. Walrus and seal +blubber is frozen, cut into strips, and pounded with great force so as +to break the fat cells. This mass is now placed in a stone pot and +heated to the temperature of the igloo, when the oil slowly separates +from the fibrous pork-like mass. Now, tallow from the suet of the +reindeer or musk ox is secured, cut into blocks and given by the good +housewife to her daughters, who sit in the igloo industriously chewing +it until the fat cells are crushed. This masticated mass is placed in a +long stone pot over the oil flame, and the tallow reduced from it is run +into the fishy oil of the walrus or seal previously prepared. + +This forms the body of native ice cream. For flavoring, the housewife +has now a variety from which to select. This usually consists of bits of +cooked meat, moss flowers and grass. Anticipating the absence of moss +and grass in the winter, the natives, during the hunting season, take +from the stomachs of reindeer and musk oxen which are shot, masses of +partly digested grass which is preserved for winter use. This, which has +been frozen, is now chipped in fragments, thawed, and, with bits of +cooked meats, is added to the mixed fats. It all forms a paste the color +of pistache, with occasional spots like crushed fruit. + +The mixture is lowered to the floor of the igloo, which, in winter, is +always below the freezing point, and into it is stirred snow water. The +churned composite gradually brightens and freezes as it is beaten. When +completed, it looks very much like ice cream, but it has the flavor of +cod liver oil, with a similar odor. Nevertheless, it has nutritive +qualities vastly superior to our ice cream, and stomach pains rarely +follow an engorgement. + +With much glee, the natives finished their Christmas repast with this +so-called delicacy. For myself a tremendous feast was prepared, +consisting of food left by the yacht and the choicest meat from the +caches. My menu consisted of green turtle soup, dried vegetables, caviar +on toast, olives, Alaskan salmon, crystallized potatoes, reindeer steak, +buttered rice, French peas, apricots, raisins, corn bread, Huntley and +Palmer biscuits, cheese and coffee. + +As I sat eating, I thought with much humor of the curious combinations +of caviar and reindeer steak, of the absurd contradiction in eating +green turtle soup beyond the Arctic circle. I ate heartily, with more +gusto than I ever partook of delicious food in the Waldorf Astoria in my +far-away home city. After dinner I took a long stroll on snow shoes. As +I looked at the star-lamps swung in heaven, I thought of Broadway, with +its purple-pale strings of lights, and its laughing merry-makers on this +festive evening. + +I did not, I confess, feel lonely. I seemed to be getting something so +much more wholesome, so much more genuine from the vast expanse of snow +and the unhidden heavens which, in New York, are seldom seen. Returning +to the box-house, I ended Christmas evening with Edgar Allen Poe and +Shakespeare as companions. + +The box-house in which I lived was amply comfortable. It did not possess +the luxury of a civilized house, but in the Arctic it was palatial. The +interior fittings had changed somewhat from time to time, but now things +were arranged in a permanent setting. The little stove was close to the +door. The floor measured sixteen feet in length and twelve feet in +width. On one side the empty boxes of the wall made a pantry, on the +other side were cabinets of tools, and unfinished sledge and camp +material. + +With a step we rose to the next floor. On each side was a bunk resting +on a bench. The bench was used as a bed, a work bench and seat. The long +rear bench was utilized as a sewing table for the seamstresses and also +for additional seating capacity. In the center was a table arranged +around a post which supported the roof. Sliding shelves from the bunks +formed table seats. A yacht lamp fixed to the post furnished ample +light. There was no other furniture. All of our needs were conveniently +placed in the open boxes of the wall. + +The closet room therefore was unlimited. In the boxes near the floor, in +which things froze hard, the perishable supplies were kept. In the next +tier there was alternate freezing and thawing. Here we stored lashings +and skins that had to be kept moist. The tiers above, usually warm and +dry under the roof, were used for various purposes. There, fresh meat in +strips, dried crisp in three days. Taking advantage of this, we had made +twelve hundred pounds of dog pemmican from walrus meat. In the gable we +placed furs and instruments. + +[Illustration: THE CAPTURE OF A BEAR ROUNDING UP A HERD OF MUSK OXEN] + +[Illustration: SVARTEVOEG--CAMPING FIVE HUNDRED MILES FROM THE POLE] + +The temperature changed remarkably as the thermometer was lifted. On the +floor in the lower boxes, it fell as low as -20°. Under the bunks on the +floor, it was usually -10°. The middle floor space was above the +freezing point. At the level of the bunk the temperature was +48°. At +the head, standing, +70°, and under the roof, -105°. + +We contrived to keep perfectly comfortable. Our feet and legs were +always dressed for low temperature, while the other portions of our body +were lightly clad. There was not the usual accumulation of moisture +except in the lower boxes, where it reinforced the foundation of the +structure and did no harm. From the hygienic standpoint, with the +material at hand, we could not have improved the arrangement. The +ventilation was by small openings, mostly along the corners, which thus +drew heat to remote angles. The value of the long stove pipe was made +evident by the interior accumulation of ice. If we did not remove the +ice every three or four days the draft was closed by atmospheric +humidity condensed from the draft drawn through the fire. From within, +the pipe was also a splendid supplementary heater, as it led by a +circuitous route about the vestibule before the open air was reached, +thus keeping the workshop somewhat warm. Two Eskimo lamps gave the added +heat and light for the sledge builders. + +From Christmas Day until New Year's there were daily feasts for the +natives. I luxuriated in a long rest, spending my time taking walks and +reading. I got a sort of pleasure by proxy in watching the delight of +these primal people in real food, food which, although to us horribly +unpalatable, never gives indigestion. This period was one of real +Christmas rejoicing in many snow homes, and the spirit, although these +people had never heard of the Christ child, was more truly in keeping +with this holiday than it often is in lands where, in ostentatious +celebration, the real meaning is lost. + +Wandering from igloo to igloo, to extend greetings and thanks for their +faithful work, I was often touched by the sounds of thin, plaintive +voices in the darkness. Each time a pang touched my heart, and I +remembered the time when I first heard my own baby girl's wee voice. The +little ones had begun to arrive. The Eskimo stork, at igloo after igloo, +was leaving its Christmas gift. + +For some time before Christmas, Cla-you, easily our best seamstress, had +not come for her assignment of sewing. To her had been given the +delicate task of making hare skin stockings; but she had lost interest +in needle-work and complained of not feeling well. E-ve-lue (Mrs. Sinue) +was completing her task. Ac-po-di-soa (the big bird), Cla-you's husband, +whom we called Bismark, had also deserted the bench where he had been +making sledges. For his absence there was no explanation, for neither he +nor his wife had ever shirked duties before. To solve the mystery I went +to his igloo during Christmas week. There I first got news from the +stork world. The boreal stork comes at a special season of the year, +usually a few weeks after midnight when there is little else to interest +the people. This season comes nine months after the days of budding +passions in April, the first Arctic month of the year when all the +world is happy. In the little underground home, the anticipated days of +the stork visit were made interesting by a long line of preparations. + +A prospective mother is busy as a bee in a charming effort to make +everything new for the coming little one. All things about must be +absolutely new if possible. Even a new house must be built. This places +the work of preparation quite as much on the father as on the mother. +There is in all this a splendid lesson in primitive hygiene. + +To examine, first, the general home environment; there is a little girl +four years old still taking nature's substitute for the bottle. She +looks about for a meaning of all the changes about the home, but does +not understand. You enter the new house on hands and knees through an +entrance twelve or fifteen feet long, crowding upwards into an ever-open +door just large enough to pass the shoulders. You rise into a dungeon +oblong in shape. The rear two-thirds of this is raised about fifteen +inches and paved with flat-rock. Upon this the furs are spread for a +bed. The forward edge forms a seat. The space ahead of this is large +enough for three people to stand at once. On each side there is a +semi-circular bulge. In these are placed the crescent-shaped stone +dishes, in which moss serves as a wick to burn blubber. Over this +blubber flame, there is a long stone pot in which snow is melted for +water and meats are occasionally cooked. Over this there is a drying +rack for boots and furs. There is no other furniture. This house +represents the home of the Eskimo family at its best. Do what she will, +the best housewife cannot free it of oil and soot. It is not, indeed, a +fit place for the immaculate stork to come. + +For months, the finest furs have been gathered to prepare a new suit for +the mother. Slowly one article of apparel after another has been +completed and put aside. The boots, called _kamik_, are of sealskin, +bleached to a spotless cream color. They reach halfway up the thigh. The +inner boot, called _atesha_, of soft caribou fur, is of the same length; +along its upper edge there is a decorative run of white bear fur. The +silky fur pads protect the tender skin of limb and foot, for no +stockings are used. Above these, there are dainty little pants of white +and blue fox, to protect the body to a point under the hips, and for +protection above that there is a shirt of birdskins or _aht-tee_. This +is the most delicate of all garments. Hundreds of little auk skins are +gathered, chewed and prepared, and as the night comes the garment is +built blouse-shaped, with hood attached. It fits loosely. There are no +buttons or openings. For the little one, the hood is enlarged and +extended down the back, as the pocket for its future abode. The coat of +fine blue fox skins, or _amoyt_, is of the same shape, but fits loosely +over all. + +The word _amoyt_, or _amoyt docsoa_, in its application, also covers the +entire range of the art and function of pregnancy. This is regarded as +an institution of the first order, second only to the art of the chase. +All being ready for the mother, for the baby only a hood is provided, +while bird-skins and grass are provided to take the place of absorbent +cotton. For the first year, the child has absolutely no other wrap or +cover but its little hood. + +The Eskimo loves children. If the stork does not come in due time, he is +likely to change his life partner. For this reason he looks forward to +the Christmas season with eager anticipation. Seeking the wilds far and +near for needed furs, in bitter winds and driving snows, he endures all +kinds of hardships during the night of months for the sake of the +expected child. Brave, good little man of iron, he fears nothing. + +From a near-by bank of hard snow he cuts blocks for a new igloo. In +darkness and wind he transports them to a point near the house. When +enough have been gathered, he walls a dome like a bee-hive. The interior +arrangement is like the winter underground home. The light is put into +it. By this he can see the open cracks between snow blocks. These are +filled in to keep wind and snow out. When all is completed, he cuts a +door and enters. The bed of snow is flattened. + +Then he seeks for miles about for suitable grass to cover the cheerless +ice floor. To get this grass, he must dig under fields of hardened snow. +Even then he is not always rewarded with success. The sledge, loaded +with frozen grass, is brought to the little snow dome. The grass is +carefully laid on the bed of leveled snow. Over it new reindeer skins +are spread. Now the new house of snow blocks in which the stork is to +come is ready. + +As the stork's coming is announced the mother's tears give the signal. +She goes to the new snowhouse alone. The father is frightened and looks +serious. But she must tear herself away. With her new garments, she +enters the dark chamber of the snowhouse, strikes a fire, lights the +lamp. The spotless walls of snow are cheerful. The new things about +give womanly pride. But life is hard for her. A soul-stirring battle +follows in that den of ice. + +There is a little cry. But there is no doctor, no nurse, no one, not a +kindly hand to help. A piece of glass is used as a surgical knife. Then +all is over. There is no soap, no water. The methods of a mother cat are +this mother's. Then, in the cold, cheerless chamber of ice, she fondly +examines the little one. Its eyes are blue, but they turn brown at once +when opened. Its hair is coal black, its skin is golden. It is turned +over and over in the search for marks or blemishes. The mother's eyes +run down along the tiny spine. At its end there is a blue shield-shaped +blot like a tattoo mark. This is the Eskimo guarantee of a well-bred +child. If it is there, the mother is happy, if not, there are doubts of +the child's future, and of the purity of the parents. Now the father and +the grandmother come. All rejoice. + +If misfortune at the time of birth befalls a mother, as is not +infrequent, the snow mound becomes her grave; it is not opened for a +long time. + +After a long sleep, into which the mother falls after her first joy, she +awakes, turns over, drinks some ice-water, eats a little half-cooked +meat, and then, shaking the frozen breath from the covers, she wraps +herself and her babe snugly in furs. Again she sleeps, perhaps +twenty-four hours, seemingly in perfect comfort, while the life-stilling +winter winds drive over the feeble wall of snow which shelters her from +the chilly death outside. + +One day during Christmas week there was a knock at our door. The proud +Ac-po-di-soa walked in, followed by his smiling wife, with the sleeping +stork gift on her back. The child had been born less than five days +before. We walked over and admired the little one. It suddenly opened +its brown eyes, screwed up its little blubber nose, and wrinkled its +chin for a cry. The mother grabbed her, plunged out of the door, pulled +the undressed infant out, and in the wind and cold served the little +one's want. + +New Year's Day came starlit and cold. The year had dawned in which I was +to essay the task to which I had set myself, the year which would mean +success or failure to me. The past year had been gracious and bountiful, +so, in celebration, Francke prepared a feast of which we both ate to +gluttonous repletion. This consisted of ox-tail soup, creamed boneless +cod, pickles, scrambled duck eggs with chipped smoked beef, roast +eider-duck, fresh biscuits, crystallized potatoes, creamed onions, Bayo +beans and bacon, Malaga grapes, (canned), peach-pie, blanc-mange, raisin +cake, Nabisco biscuits and steaming chocolate. + +The day was spent in making calls among the Eskimos. In the evening +several families were given a feast which was followed by songs and +dances. This hilarity was protracted to the early hours of morning and +ended in an epidemic of night hysteria. When thus afflicted the victims +dance and sing and fall into a trance, the combination of symptoms +resembling insanity. + +In taking account of our stock we found that our baking powder was about +exhausted. This was sad news, for a breakfast of fresh biscuits, butter +and coffee was one of the few delights that remained for me in life. We +had bicarbonate of soda, but no cream of tartar. I wondered whether we +could not substitute for cream of tartar some other substance. + +Curious experiments followed. The juice of sauerkraut was tried with +good results. But the flavor, as a steady breakfast food, was not +desirable. Francke had fermented raisins with which to make wine. As a +wine it was a failure, but as a fruit acid it enabled us to make soda +biscuits with a new and delicate flavor. Milk, we found, would also +ferment. From the unsweetened condensed milk, biscuits were made that +would please the palate of any epicure. My breakfast pleasure therefore +was still assured for many days to come. + + + + +EN ROUTE FOR THE POLE + +THE CAMPAIGN OPENS--LAST WEEKS OF THE POLAR NIGHT--ADVANCE PARTIES SENT +OUT--AWAITING THE DAWN + +X + +THE START WITH SUNRISE OF 1908 + + +Two weeks of final tests and re-examination of clothing, sledges and +general equipment followed the New Year's festivities. On January 14 +there was almost an hour of feeble twilight at midday. The moon offered +light enough to travel. Now we were finally ready to fire the first guns +of the Polar battle. Scouts were outside, waiting for the signal to +proceed. They were going, not only to examine the ice field for the main +advance, but to offer succor to a shipwrecked crew, which the natives +believed was at Cape Sabine. + +The smoke of a ship had been seen late in the fall, and much wood from a +wrecked ship had been found. The pack was, therefore, loaded with +expedition supplies, with instructions to offer help to anyone in want +that might be found. + +I had just finished a note to be left at Cape Sabine, telling of our +headquarters, our caches and our willingness to give assistance. This +was handed to Koo-loo-ting-wah, standing before his restless dogs, whip +in hand, as were his three companions, who volunteered as scouts. They +jumped on the sledges, and soon the dogs were rushing toward the Polar +pack of Smith Sound. + +It was a beautiful day. A fold of the curtain of night had been lifted +for a brief spell. A strong mixed light, without shadows, rested on the +snow. It changed in quality and color with the changing mystery of the +aurora. One might call it blue, or purple, or violet, or no color at +all, according to the color perception of the observer. + +In the south the heavens glowed with the heralds of the advancing sun. +The light was exaggerated by the blink of the ice over which the light +was sent, for the brightness of the heavens was out of proportion to its +illuminating effect upon the surface snows. In the north, the half-spent +moon dispelled the usual blackness Poleward, while the zenith was +lighted with stars of the first and second magnitude. + +The temperature was -41° F. The weather was perfectly calm--all that +could be expected for the important event of opening the campaign. + +In the course of a few hours the cheerful light faded, the snows +darkened to earthy fields, and out of the north came a smoky tempest. +The snow soon piled up in tremendous drifts, making it difficult to +leave the house without climbing new hills. The dogs tied about were +buried in snow. Only the light passing through the membrane of +intestines, which was spread over the ports to make windows for the +native houses, relieved the fierce blackness. + +The run to Cape Sabine, under fine conditions, was about forty miles, +and could be made in one day, but Smith Sound seldom offers a fair +chance. Insufficient light, impossible winds or ice make the crossing +hazardous at best. The Eskimos cross every year, but they are out so +much after bears that they have a good knowledge of the ice before they +start to reach the other shores. + +Coming from the north, with a low temperature and blowing snow, the wind +would not only stop our scouts, but force the ice south, leaving open +spaces of water. A resulting disruption of the pack might greatly delay +our start with heavy sledges. Furthermore, there was real danger at hand +for the advance. If the party had been composed of white men there +surely would have been a calamity. But the Eskimo approaches the +ventures of the wild with splendid endurance. Moreover, he has a weather +intelligence which seldom finds him unprepared. + +At midnight of the second night the party returned. They were none the +worse for the storm. The main intent of their mission had failed. The +storm had forced them into snow embankments, and before it was quite +spent a bear began to nose about their shelter places. The dogs were so +buried with drift that they were not on watch until the bear had +destroyed much of their food. Then their mad voices aroused the Eskimos. + +As they dug out of their shelter, the bear took a big walrus leg and +walked off, man-like, holding the meat in his forepaws. In their haste +to free the dogs, they cut their harness to pieces, for snow and ice +cemented the creatures. Oo-tah ran out in the excitement to head off the +bear--not to make an attack, but simply to stop his progress. The bear +dropped the meat and grabbed Oo-tah by the seat of his trousers. The +dogs, fortunately, came along in time to save Oo-tah's life, but he had +received a severe leg wound, which required immediate surgical +attention. + +The bear was captured, and with loads of bear meat and the wounded scout +the party returned as quickly as possible. In the retreat it was noticed +that the ice was very much broken. + +In the wreck of an Arctic storm there is always a subsequent profit for +someone. The snow becomes crusted and hardened, making sledge travel +easy. The breaking of the ice, which was a great hindrance to our +advance, offered open water for walrus and bear hunting. At this time we +went to Serwahdingwah for the last chase. Some of the Eskimos took their +families, so Annoatok became depopulated for a while. But on our return, +visitors came in numbers too numerous for our comfort. + +Dogs and skins, bargained for earlier in the season, were now delivered. +Each corps of excursionists required some attention, for they had done +noble work for the expedition. We gave them dinners and allowed them to +sit about our stove with picture-books in hand. + +Another storm came, with still more violent force, a week later. This +caused us much anxiety, for we counted on our people being scattered on +the ice along the shores of Cape Alexander. In a storm this would +probably be swept from the land and carried seaward. There was nothing +that could be done except wait for news. Messengers of trouble were not +long in reaching headquarters after the storm. None of the men were on +the ice, but a hurricane from the land had wrecked the camps. + +Our men suffered little, but many of the natives in neighboring villages +were left without clothing or sleeping furs. In the rush of the storm +the ice left the land, and the snowhouses were swept into the sea. Men +and women, without clothing, barely escaped with their lives. Two of our +new sledges, some dogs, and three suits of winter furs were lost. A +rescue party with furs had to be sent to the destitute people. +Fortunately, our people were well supplied with bed-furs, out of which +new suits were made. + +Sledge loads of our furs were also coming north, and instructions were +sent to use these for the urgent needs of the sufferers. Other things +were sent from Annoatok, with returning excursionists, and in the course +of a week the damage was replaced. But the loss was all on the +expedition, and deprived many of the men in their northern journey of +suitable sleeping-furs. Walruses were obtained after the storm, and the +natives now had no fear of a famine of meat or fat. + +By the end of January most of the natives had returned, and new +preparations were made for a second effort to cross the Sound. Francke +asked to join the party, and prepared for his first camp outing. Four +sledges were loaded with two hundred pounds each of expedition advance +supplies. Four good drivers volunteered to move the sledges to the +American side. + +The light had gradually brightened, and the storms passed off and left a +keen, cold air, which was as clear as crystal. But at best the light was +still feeble, and could be used for only about four hours of each +twenty-four. If, however, the sky remained clear, the moon and stars +would furnish enough illumination for a full day's travel. There was a +little flush of color in the southern skies, and the snows were a pale +purple as the sledges groaned in their rush over the frosty surface. + +The second party started off as auspiciously as the first, and news of +its luck was eagerly awaited. + +They reached Cape Sabine after a long run of twenty hours, making a +considerable detour to the north. The ice offered good traveling, but +the cold was bitter, the temperature being -52° F., with light, +extremely humid and piercing winds. + +Along the land and within the bays the snow was found to be deep, and a +bitter wind came from the west. Two of the party could not be persuaded +to go farther, but Francke, with two companions, pushed on for another +day along the shore to Cape Veile. Beyond, the snow was too deep to +proceed. The supplies were cached in a snowhouse, while those at Cape +Sabine were left in the old camp. The party returned at the end of four +days with their object accomplished. Nothing was seen of the rumored +shipwrecked crew. + +The next party, of eight sledges, led by Es-se-you, Kud-la, and Me-tek, +started on February 5. The object was to carry advance supplies to the +head of Flagler Bay, and hunt musk ox to feed the sledge teams as they +moved overland. We were to meet this party at an appointed place in the +bay. + +The light was still too uncertain to risk the fortunes of the entire +force. With a hundred dogs, a delay of a day would be an expensive loss, +for if fed upon the carefully guarded food of the advance stores, a +rapid reduction in supplies would follow, which could not be replaced, +even if abundant game were secured later. It was, therefore, desirable +to await the rising sun. + +We made our last arrangements, fastened our last packs, and waited +impatiently for the sunrise, here at this northernmost outpost of human +life, just seven hundred miles from the Pole. And this was the problem +that now insistently and definitely confronted us after the months of +planning and preparation: Seven hundred miles of advance, almost a +thousand miles as our route was planned; one thousand miles of return; +two thousand miles in all; allowing for detours (for the line to be +followed could not be precisely straight), more than two thousand miles +of struggling travel across icy and unknown and uninhabitable wastes of +moving ice. + +On the morning of February 19, 1908, I started on my trip to the North +Pole. + +Early, as the first real day of the year dawned, eleven sledges were +brought to the door of our box-house and lashed with supplies for the +boreal dash. There were four thousand pounds of supplies for use on the +Polar sea, and two thousands pounds of walrus skin and fat for use +before securing the fresh game we anticipated. The eleven sledges were +to be driven by Francke, nine Eskimos, and myself. They were drawn by +one hundred and three dogs, each in prime condition. The dogs had been +abundantly fed with walrus skin and meat for several weeks, and would +now be fed only every second day on fresh supplies. + +My heart was high. I was about to start on the quest which had inspired +me for many years! The natives were naturally excited. The dogs caught +the contagious enthusiasm, and barked joyously. At eight o'clock in the +morning our whips snapped, the spans of dog teams leaped forward, and we +were off. + +My Polar quest had begun! + +Most of the tribe had seemed willing to go with me, and to take all +their dogs, but the men and the dogs finally selected were the pick of +the lot. All were in superb physical condition, this matter of condition +being something that I had carefully looked out for during the winter +months. I regard this as having been highly advantageous to me, that +I have always been able to win the friendship and confidence of the +Eskimos; for thus I found them extremely ready to follow my advice +and instructions, and to do in general anything I desired. That +I could speak Eskimo fairly well--well enough to hold ordinary +conversations--was also a strong asset in my favor. + +When we started, a few stars were seen between thin clouds, but the +light was good. A soft wind came from the south; the temperature was +-36° F. The Greenland ice-cap was outlined; a belt of orange in the +south heralded the rising sun. The snow still retained the purple of +twilight. The ice was covered with about three inches of soft snow over +a hard crust, which made speed difficult. Before noon the sky was gray, +but the light remained good enough for traveling until 4 P. M. A course +was made about northwest, because a more direct line was still +impractical. + +A water sky to the west and south denoted open water. At 3 P. M. we ran +into bear tracks, and the sledges bounced along as if empty. The tracks +were making a good course for us, so the dogs were encouraged. By four +o'clock the feeble light made it dangerous to proceed. Two hunters still +followed the bear tracks, while the others built three snowhouses for +camp. Nothing was seen of the bears. + +The dogs were tied to holes cut in the ice, and we crept into our +snow-mounds, tired, hungry and sleepy. The night was extremely +uncomfortable--the first nights from camp always are. + +The next day brought a still air with a temperature of -42° F., and +brilliant light at eight o'clock. We had made twenty miles through the +air-line distance from Annoatok, and Cape Sabine was but thirty miles +away. We had been forced so far north that we still had thirty miles +before us to the Cape. The dogs, however, were in better trim, and we +had no doubt about reaching the off-shores for the next camp. We +followed the edge of ice which had been made in a wide open space in +December. Here the traveling was fairly level, but above was a hopeless +jungle of mountains and ridges of ice. We made about three miles an +hour, and were able to ride occasionally. + +At noon of February 20th we stopped, and coffee was served from our +ever-hot coffee box. A can had been placed in a box, and so protected by +reindeer skins that the heat was retained for twelve hours during the +worst weather. This proved a great luxury. + +While we sat regaling ourselves, a great ball of fire rose along the icy +horizon. Our hearts were glad. The weather was bitterly cold; the +temperature was 51° F.: but the sun had risen; the long night was at +end. There was little else to mark the glory of sunrise. The light was +no brighter than it had been for two hours. The sky remained a purple +blue, with a slight grayness in the south, darkening toward the horizon. +The snows were purple, with just a few dashes of red in the road before +us. This unpretentious burst of the sun opened our spirits to new +delights. Even the dogs sat in graceful rows and sounded a chorus of +welcome to the coming of the day. + +Although Cape Sabine, on February 20, was in sight, we still headed for +Bache Peninsula. Impossible ice and open water pushed us farther and +farther north. It was three o'clock before the Cape was seen over the +dogs' tails. Soon after four the light failed, the land colored to +purple and gold toward the rim of the horizon, and we were left to guess +the direction of our course. But Eskimos are somewhat better than +Yankees at guessing, for we got into no troubles until 9 P. M., when we +tried to scale the rafted ice against Cape Sabine. With only the camp +equipment and dog food, the dogs crept up and down in the black hills of +ice, while we followed like mountain-sheep. + +Here had been the camp of the ill-fated Greely expedition. It recurred +to me that it was a curious whim of fate that this ill-starred camp of +famine and death, in earlier days, should have marked the very outset of +our modern effort to reach the Pole. But later we were to learn that +under similar conditions a modern expedition can meet the same fate as +that of the Lady Franklin Bay Expedition. + +We turned about, took the advance supplies, and picked a course through +Rice Strait, to avoid the rough ice northward. Here the surface was +good, but a light wind, with a temperature of -52° F., came with great +bitterness. The dogs refused to face the wind, and required someone to +lead the way. The men buried their faces in the fur mittens, leaned on +the upstanders, and ran along. + +Passing Cape Rutherford on February 22, we followed the coast. Here the +wind came from the right, caught the tip of the nose, burning with a +bleaching effect, which, in camp later, turned black. At Cape Veile the +cache igloo was sighted, and there camp was pitched. + +In the morning the minimum thermometer registered -58° F. We were +evidently passing from the storms and open water of Smith Sound, from +warm, moist air to a still, dry climate, with very low temperature. The +day opened beautifully with a glow of rose to the south, which colored +the snows in warm tones. At noon the sun showed half of its face over +the cliffs as we crossed the bay and sought better ice along Bache +Peninsula. That night we camped near the Weyprecht Islands. The day, +although bright, proved severe, for most of the natives had frostbites +about the face. Along Bache Peninsula we saw hares staring at us. Four +were secured for our evening meal. In the very low temperature of -64° +F. the hunters suffered from injuries like burns, due to the blistering +cold metal of their guns. + +Dog food had also to be prepared. In efforts to divide the walrus skin, +two hatchets were broken. The Eskimo dog is a tough creature, but he +cannot be expected to eat food which breaks an axe. Petroleum and +alcohol were used liberally, and during the night the skin was +sufficiently softened by the heat to be cut with the hatchets. This +skin seems to be good food for the dogs. It is about one inch thick, and +contains little water, the skin fibre being a kind of condensed +nutriment, small quantities of which satisfy the dogs. It digests +slowly, and therefore has lasting qualities. + +The lamps, burning at full force, made the igloos comfortable. The +temperature fell to -68° F. It was the first satisfying sleep of the +journey for me. The economy of the blue fire stoves is beyond +conception. Burning but three pounds of oil all night, the almost liquid +air was reduced to a normal temperature of freezing point. + +Francke used alcohol stoves, with a double consumption of fuel. The +natives, in their three igloos, used the copper lamp, shaped after the +stone devices, but they did no cooking. + +In the morning of the 23d we heard sounds to the south, which at first +we thought to be walrus. But after a time the noise was interpreted as +that of the dogs of the advance party. They were camped a few miles +beyond, and came to our igloos at breakfast. One musk ox and eleven +hares had been secured. The valley had been thoroughly hunted, but no +other game was sighted. + +The ground was nearly bare, and made sledge travel impossible. They were +bound for Annoatok at once. This was sad news for us. We had counted on +game with which to feed the dog train en route to the Polar sea. If +animals were not secured, our project would fail at the very start, and +this route would be impossible. To push overland rapidly to the west +coast was our only chance, but the report of insufficient snow seemed to +forbid this. Something, however, must be tried. We could not give up +without a stronger fight. The strong probability of our failing to find +musk ox, and extending the expedition for another year, over another +route, made it necessary to send Francke back to headquarters to guard +our supplies. There was no objection to the return of most of the other +party, but we took their best dogs and sledges, with some exchange of +drivers. + +With this change in the arrangements, and the advance supplies from Cape +Sabine and Cape Viele, each sledge now carried eight hundred pounds. +Beyond, in Flagler Bay, the ice luckily became smooth and almost free of +snow. An increased number of dogs, with good traveling, enabled us to +make satisfactory progress, despite the steadily falling temperature. + +The head of Flagler Bay was reached late at night, after an exhausting +march of twenty-five miles. A hard wind, with a temperature of -60° F., +had almost paralyzed the dogs, and the men were kept alive only by +running with the dogs. Comfortable houses were built and preparations +made for a day of rest. On the morrow we aimed to explore the land for +an auspicious route. Many new frostbites were again noted in camp. One +of the dogs died of the cold. + +The party was by no means discouraged, however. We were as enthusiastic +as soldiers on the eve of a longed-for battle. The reduced numbers of +the return party gave us extra rations to use in times of need, and the +land did not seem as hopeless as pictured by the returning natives. A +cache was made here of needful things for use on the return. Other +things, which we had found useless, were also left here. + + + + +EXPLORING A NEW PASS OVER ACPOHON + +FROM THE ATLANTIC WATERS AT FLAGLER BAY TO THE PACIFIC WATERS AT BAY +FIORD--THE MECCA OF THE MUSK OX--BATTLES WITH THE BOVINE MONSTERS OF +THE ARCTIC--SUNRISE AND THE GLORY OF SUNSET + +XI + +BREAKING A TRAIL BEYOND THE HAUNTS OF MAN + + +Early in the morning of February 25 the dogs were spanned to sledges +with heavy loads, and we pushed into the valley of mystery ahead. Our +purpose was to cross the inland ice and descend into Cannon Bay. The +spread of the rush of glacial waters in summer had dug out a wide +central plain, now imperfectly covered with ice and snow. Over this we +lined a trail. + +On each side of us were gradual slopes rising to cliffs, above which I +noted the blue wall of the overland sea of ice, at an altitude of about +two thousand feet. Nowhere did this offer a safe slope for an ascent. We +now explored the picturesque valley, for I knew that our only hope was +to push overland to Bay Fiord. The easy slopes were enlivened with +darting, downy hares. Some sat motionless, with their long ears erect, +while they drank the first golden air of sunrise and watched the coming +of new life. Others danced about in frisky play. + +As we pushed along, the ascent of the slope was gradual. The necessity +for crossing from side to side to find ice or snow lengthened our +journey. Only the partially bare earth gave us trouble. The temperature +was -62° F., but there was no wind. The upper slopes glittered with +bright sunshine. Winding with a stream, we advanced twenty miles. Beyond +there was the same general topography. The valley looked like a pass. +Clouds of a different kind were seen through the gorges. At various +places we noted old musk ox paths. I knew that where game trails are +well marked on mountains one is certain to find a good crossing. This +rule is equally good in the Arctic as elsewhere. At any rate, there was +no alternative. The tortures of the top had to be risked. Pushing +onward, we found no fresh signs of musk ox. A few bear tracks were seen, +and a white fox followed us to camp. We shot sixteen hares, and for the +evening meal unlimited quantities of savory hare meat made an appetizing +broth. + +On the day following, everything was advanced to this point. A prolonged +search for musk ox was made, with negative results. + +On the morning of the 27th, full loads were taken on our sledges. With +slow progress we advanced on the rising bed of the stream, the valley +moved, and the river ice was found in one channel, making better travel. +Hare and fox tracks increased in number. The side slopes were grassy, +and mostly swept bare of snow by strong winter winds. Sand dunes and +gravel lines were also piled up, while huge drifts of pressed snow +indicated a dangerous atmospheric agitation. Here, I knew, were +excellent feeding grounds for musk ox and caribou. But a careful +scrutiny gave no results for a long time. + +To us the musk ox was now of vital importance. The shorter way, over +Schley Land and northward through Nansen Sound, was possible only if +game in abundance was secured en route. If the product of the chase gave +us no reward, then our Polar venture was doomed at the outset. + +One day, with a temperature of -100° below the freezing point, and with +a light but sharp Arctic wind driving needles of frost to the very bone, +we searched the rising slopes of ice-capped lands in the hope of +spotting life. + +For three days the dogs had not been fed. They sniffed the air, searched +the horizon, and ranged the wilds with all the eagerness of their wolf +progenitors. The hare and the fox were aroused from their winter's +sleep, but such game was not what we now desired. Only meat and fat in +heaps could satisfy the wants of over a hundred empty stomachs. + +After a hard pull, ascending miniature, ice-covered hills, winding about +big, polished boulders, we entered a wider section of the narrow +gorge-like valley. Here the silurian rocks had broken down, and by the +influence of glacier streams and glaciers, now receding, a good deal of +rolling, grass-covered land spread from cliff to cliff. Strong winter +gales had bared the ground. We sat down to rest. The dogs did likewise. + +All searched the new lands with eager eyes. The dog noses pointed to a +series of steep slopes to the north. They were scenting something, but +were too tired to display the usual animation of the chase. Soon we +detected three dark, moving objects on a snowy sun-flushed hill, under a +huge cliff, about a thousand feet above us. _"Ah-ming-mah!"_ shouted +E-tuk-i-shook. The dogs jumped; the men grasped glasses; in a second the +sledge train was in disorder. + +Fifty dogs were hitched to three sledges. Rushing up three different +gulches, the sledges, with tumbling human forms as freight, advanced to +battle. The musk oxen, with heads pointed to the attacking forces, +quietly awaited the onrush. + +Within an hour three huge, fat carcasses were down in the river bed. A +temporary camp was made, and before the meat froze most of it had passed +palates tantalized by many days of gastronomic want. + +Continuing our course, we crossed the divide in a storm. Beyond, in a +canyon, the wind was more uncomfortable than in the open. Something must +be done. We could not long breathe that maddening air, weighted by frost +and thickened by snows. The snow-bank gave no shelter whatever, and a +rush of snow came over, which quickly buried the investigators. But it +was our only hope. + +"Dig a hole," said Koo-loo-ting-wah. + +Now, to try to dig a hole without a shovel, and with snow coming more +rapidly than any power of man could remove, seemed a waste of needed +vital force. But I had faith in the intelligence of my savage +companions, and ordered all hands to work. They gathered at one corner +of the bank, and began to talk and shout, while I allowed myself to be +buried in a pocket of the cliffs to keep my tender skin from turning to +ice. Every few minutes someone came along to see if I was safe. + +The igloo was progressing. Two men were now inside. In the course of +another hour they reported four men inside; in another hour seven men +were inside, and the others were piling up the blocks, cut with knives +from the interior. A kind of vestibule was made to allow the wind to +shoot over the entrance. Inside, the men were sweating. + +Soon afterward I was told that the igloo was completed. I lost no time +in seeking its shelter. A square hole had been cut, large enough for the +entire party if packed like sardines. Our fur clothing was removed, and +beaten with sticks and stones. + +The lamps sang cheerily of steaming musk ox steaks. The dogs were +brought into the canyon. A more comfortable night was impossible. We +were fifty feet under the snow. The noise of the driving storm was lost. +The blinding drift about the entrance was effectually shut out by a +block of snow as a door. Two holes afforded ventilation, and the +tremendous difference between the exterior and the interior air assured +a circulation. + +When we emerged in the morning the sky was clear. A light wind came from +the west, with a temperature of -78° F. Two dogs had frozen during the +storm. All were buried in the edge of a drift that was piled fifteen +feet. An exploration of the canyon showed other falls and boulders +impossible for sledge travel. + +A trail was picked over the hills to the side. The day was severe. How +we escaped broken legs and smashed sleds was miraculous. But somehow, in +our plunges down the avalanches, we always landed in a soft bed of snow. +We advanced about ten miles, and made a descent of five hundred feet, +first camping upon a glacial lake. + +The temperature now was -79° F., and although there were about nine +hours of good light, including twilight, we had continued our efforts +too long, and were forced to build igloos by moonlight. Glad were we, +indeed, when the candle was placed in the dome of snow, to show the last +cracks to be stuffed. + +In the searchlight of the frigid dawn I noticed that our advance was +blocked by a large glacier, which tumbled barriers of ice boulders into +the only available line for a path. A way would have to be cut into this +barrier of icebergs for about a mile. This required the full energy of +all the men for the day. I took advantage of the halt to explore the +country through which we were forcing a pass. The valley was cut by +ancient glaciers and more modern creeks along the meeting line of two +distinct geological formations. To the north were silurian and +cambro-silurian rocks; to the south were great archæan cliffs. + +With the camera, the field-glass, and other instruments in the sack, I +climbed into a gorge and rose to the level of the mountains of the +northern slopes. The ground was here absolutely destitute of vegetation, +and only old musk ox trails indicated living creatures. The snow had all +been swept into the ditches of the lowlands. Climbing over +frost-sharpened stones, I found footing difficult. + +The average height of the mountains proved to be nineteen hundred feet. +To the northeast there was land extending a few miles further, with a +gradual rising slope. Beyond was the blue edge of the inland ice. To +the northwest, the land continued in rolling hills, beyond which no +land-ice was seen. The cliffs to the south were of about the same +height, but they were fitted to the crest with an ice-cap. The overflow +of perpetual snows descended into the gorges, making five overhanging +glaciers. + +The first was at the divide, furnishing in summer the waters which +started the vigorous stream to the Atlantic slopes. It was a huge stream +of ice, about a mile wide, and it is marked by giant cliffs, separated +by wide gaps, indicating the roughness of the surface over which it +pushes its frozen height. To the stream to which it gives birth, flowing +eastward from the divide, I will give the name of Schley River, in honor +of Rear-Admiral Schley. + +The stream starting westward from the divide, through picturesque rocks, +tumbles in icy falls into a huge canyon, down to the Pacific waters at +Bay Fiord. To this I will give, in honor of General A. W. Greely, the +name Greely River. + +The second and third glaciers were overhanging masses about a half-mile +wide, which gave volume in summer time to Greely River. + +The fourth was a powerful glacier, with a discharging face of blue three +miles long, closing up a valley and damming up a lake about four miles +long and one mile wide. The lake was beyond the most precipitous of the +descending slopes. The upper cliffs of the walled valley to Flagler Bay +were still visible, while to the west was seen a line of mountains and +cliffs which marked the head of Bay Fiord, under which was seen the ice +covering the first water of the Pacific upon which our future fortunes +would be told. To this sea level there was an easy descent of four +hundred feet on the river ice and snowdrifts, making, with good luck, a +day's run of twenty miles. + +Returning, at camp I was informed that not only had a trail been cut, +but many of the sledges had been advanced to the good ice beyond. Two of +the sledges, however, had been badly broken, and must be mended at dawn +before starting. + +The day was beautiful. For the first time I felt the heat of the sun. It +came through the thick fur of my shoulders with the tenderness of a warm +human hand. The mere thought of the genial sunbeams brought a glow of +healthful warmth, but at the same time the thermometer was very low, +-78½° F. One's sense of cold, under normal conditions, is a correct +instrument in its bearing upon animal functions, but as an instrument of +physics it makes an unreliable thermometer. If I had been asked to guess +the temperature of the day I should have placed it at -25° F. + +The night air had just a smart of bitterness. The igloo failed to become +warm, so we fed our internal fires liberally with warming courses, +coming in easy stages. We partook of superheated coffee, thickened with +sugar, and biscuits, and later took butter chopped in squares, which was +eaten as cheese with musk ox meat chopped by our axes into splinters. +Delicious hare loins and hams, cooked in pea soup, served as dessert. + +The amount of sugar and fat which we now consumed was quite remarkable. +Fortunately, during the journey to the edge of the Polar sea, there was +no urgent limit to transportation, and we were well supplied with the +luxury of sugar and civilized foods, most of which later were to be +abandoned. + +In this very low temperature I found considerable difficulty in jotting +down the brief notes of our day's doings. The paper was so cold that the +pencil barely left a mark. A few moments had to be spent warming each +page and pencil before beginning to write. With the same operation, the +fingers were also sufficiently warmed to hold the pencil. All had to be +done by the light and heat of a candle. + +To economize fuel, the fires later were extinguished before retiring to +sleep. In the morning we were buried in the frost falling from our own +breath. + +It was difficult to work at dawn with fur-covered hands; but the Eskimo +can do much with his glove-fitting mitten. The broken sledges were soon +repaired. After tumbling over irregular ice along the face of the +glacier, the river offered a splendid highway over which the dogs +galloped with remarkable speed. We rode until cold compelled exercise. +The stream descended among picturesque hills, but the most careful +scrutiny found no sign of life except the ever-present musk ox trails of +seasons gone by. + +As we neared the sea line, near the mouth of the river, we began to see +a few fresh tracks of hare and musk ox. Passing out on the south of Bay +Fiord, we noted bear and wolf tracks. Then the eyes of the hunter and +the dog rolled with eager anticipation. + +The sun flushed the skies in flaming colors as it was about to sink +behind a run of high peaks. The western sky burned with gold, the ice +flashed with crimson inlets, but the heat was very feeble. The +temperature was -72° F. We had already gone twenty-five miles, and were +looking forward to a point about ten miles beyond as the next camping +place, when all my companions, seemingly at once, espied a herd of musk +ox on the sky line of a whale-backed mountain to the north. + +The distance was about three miles, but the eagle eyes of the natives +detected the black spots. + +We searched the gorge with our glasses. Suddenly one of the Eskimos +cried out in a joyous tone: "_Ah-ming-ma! Ah-ming-ma!_" + +I could detect only some dark specks on the snow, which looked like a +hundred others that I knew to be rocks. I levelled my glasses on the +whale-backed mountain at which the Eskimo was staring, and, sure enough, +there were three musk oxen on a steep snow slope. They seemed to be +digging up the winter snow fields to get "scrub" willows. They were not +only three miles away, but at an altitude of perhaps a thousand feet +above us. + +The cumbersome loads were quickly pitched from three sledges. Rifles and +knives were securely fastened. In a few moments the long lashes snapped, +and away we rushed, with two men on each of the sledges and with double +teams of twenty dogs. + +The dogs galloped at a pace which made the sledges bound like rubber +balls over irregularities of rocks, slippery ice, and hard-crusted snow, +and our hold tightened on the hickory in the effort to keep our places. +It disturbed the dogs not at all whether they were on rock or snow, or +whether the sledge rested on runners or turned spirally; but it made +considerable difference to us, and we lost much energy in the constant +efforts to avoid somersaults. We did not dare release our grip for a +moment, for to do so would have meant painful bumping and torn clothes, +as well as being left behind in the chase. + +It took but a brief time to cover the three miles. We made our final +advance by three separate ravines, and for a time the musk oxen were out +of sight. When we again saw them they had not taken the alarm, nor did +they until we were ready to attack them from three separate points. + +All but five dogs from each sledge were now freed from harness. They +darted toward the oxen with fierce speed. + +The oxen tried to escape through a ravine, but it was too late. The dogs +were on every side of them, and all the oxen could do was to grunt +fiercely and jump into a bunch, with tails together and heads directed +at the enemy. There were seven musk oxen in all, and they tried to keep +the dogs scattered at a safe distance. + +The dogs would rush up to within a few feet, showing their teeth and +uttering wolfish sounds, and every now and then an ox would rush out +from its circle, with head down, in an effort to strike the dogs; but +the dogs were always too quick to be caught by the savage thrust, and +each time the ox, in its retreat, would feel canine fangs closing on its +haunches. + +After a few such efforts, the bulls, with lowered horns, merely held to +the position, while the dogs, not daring actually to attack under such +circumstances, sat in a circle and sent up blood-chilling howls. +Meanwhile, the Eskimos and myself were hurrying up. + +The strife was soon over. I snapped my camera at an old bull which at +that moment broke through the dogs and, followed by a group of them, was +driven madly over a cliff in a plunge of five thousand feet. The other +oxen were soon killed by the hunters. + +[Illustration: "THE IGLOO BUILT, WE PREPARE FOR OUR DAILY CAMP"] + +[Illustration: CAMPING TO EAT AND TAKE OBSERVATIONS ON AGAIN!] + +The sun settled under mountains of ice, and the purple twilight rapidly +thickened. It was very cold. The breath of each man came like jets of +steam from a kettle. The temperature was now -81° F. No time could be +lost in dressing the game. But the Eskimos were equal to the task, and +showed such skill as only Indians possess. + +While this was being done by my companions, I strolled about to note the +ear-marks of the home of the musk ox. The mountain was in line of the +sweep of the winds, and was bared of snows. Here were grass, mosses, and +creeping willows in abundance, descending into the gullies. I found +fossil-stumps of large trees and bits of lignite coal. The land in +pre-glacial times had evidently supported a vigorous vegetation; but now +the general aspect offered a scene of frosty hopelessness. Still, in +this desolation of snowy wastes, nature had supplied creatures with food +in their hard pressure of life. + +Fox and wolf tracks were everywhere, while on every little eminence sat +an Arctic hare, evincing ear-upraised surprise at our appearance. With +the glasses I noted on neighboring hills three other herds of musk ox. +This I did not tell the hunters, for they would not have rested until +all were secured. Living in a land of cold and hunger, the Eskimo is +insatiable for game. We had as much meat as we could possibly use for +the next few days, and it was much easier to fill up, and secure more +when we needed it, than now to carry almost impossible loads. In a +remarkably short time the skins were removed and the meat was boned and +cut in small strips in such a way that the axe would break it when +frozen. Neatly wrapped in skins, the loads did not seem large. + +Selecting a few choice bits for later use, the balance was separated and +allowed to cool. I looked at the enormous quantity of meat, and wondered +how it could be transported to camp, but no such thought troubled the +Eskimos. Piece after piece went down the canine throats with a gulp. No +energy was wasted in mastication. With a drop of the jaws and a twist of +the neck, the task of eating was finished and the stomach began to +spread. The dogs had not yet reached their limit when the snow was +cleared of its weight of dressed meat and a canine wrangle began for the +possession of the cleaned bones. + +With but little meat on the sledges, we began the descent, but the +spirit of the upward rush was lost. The dogs, too full to run, simply +rolled down the slopes, and we pushed the sledges ourselves. The ox that +had made the death plunge was picked up and taken as reserve meat. It +was midnight before camp was pitched. The moon burned with a cheerful +glow. The air was filled with liquid frost, but there was no wind and +consequently no suffering from cold. + +Two comfortable snowhouses were built, and in them our feasts rivalled +the canine indulgence. Thus was experienced the greatest joy of savage +life in boreal wilds--the hunt of the musk ox, with the advantage of the +complex cunning gathered by forgotten ages. The balance of the meat left +after our feast was buried, with the protecting skins, in the snow. On +opening the meat on the following morning, it was still warm, although +the minimum thermometer registered -80° F. for the night. + +A few minutes before midday, on our next march, the sledge train halted. +We sat on the packs, and, with eyes turned southward, waited. Even an +Eskimo has an eye for color and a soul for beauty. To us there appeared +a play of suppressed light and bleached color tints, as though in +harmony with bars of music, which inspired my companions to shouts of +joy. + +Slowly and majestically the golden orb lifted. The dogs responded in +low, far-reaching calls. The Eskimos greeted the day god with savage +chants. The sun, a flushed crimson ball, edged along the wintry outline +of the mountains' purplish snowy glitter. The pack was suddenly screened +by a moving sheet of ever-changing color, wherein every possible +continuation of purple and gold merged with rainbow hues. + +Soon the dyes changed to blue, and eventually the sky was fired by +flames of red. Then, slowly, the great blazing globe sank into seas of +fire-flushed ice. The snowy mountains about glowed with warm cheer. The +ice cooled again to purple, and again to blue, and then a winter +blackness closed the eye to color and the soul to joy. + + + + +IN GAME TRAILS TO LAND'S END + +SVERDRUP'S NEW WONDERLAND--FEASTING ON GAME EN ROUTE TO +SVARTEVOEG--FIRST SHADOW OBSERVATIONS--FIGHTS WITH WOLVES AND +BEARS--THE JOYS OF ZERO'S LOWEST--THRESHOLD OF THE UNKNOWN + +XII + +SHORES OF THE CIRCUMPOLAR SEA + + +March 2 was bright and clear and still. The ice was smooth, with just +snow enough to prevent the dogs cutting their feet. The heavy sledges +bounded along easily, but the dogs were too full of meat to step a +lively pace. The temperature was -79° F. We found it comfortable to walk +along behind the upstanders of the sledges. Some fresh bear tracks were +crossed. These denoted that bears had advanced along the coast on an +exploring tour, much as we aimed to do. Scenting these tracks, the dogs +forgot their distended stomachs, and braced into the harness with full +pulling force. We were still able to keep pace by running. Hard exercise +brought no perspiration. + +After passing the last land point, we noted four herds of musk oxen. The +natives were eager to embark for the chase. I tried to dissuade them, +but, had we not crossed the bear trail, no word of mine would have kept +them from another chase of the musk ox. + +Long after sunset, as we were about to camp, a bear was sighted +advancing on us behind a line of hummocks. The light was already feeble. +It was the work of but a minute to throw our things on the ice and start +the teams on the scent of the bear. But this bear was thin and hungry. +He gave us a lively chase. His advance was checked, however, as our rush +began, and he spread his huge paws into a step which outdistanced our +dogs. The chase was continued on the ice for about three miles. Then +bruin, with sublime intelligence, took to the land and the steep slopes, +leading us over hilly, bare ground, rocks, and soft snows. He gained the +top of the tall cliffs while we were still groping in the darkness among +the rocks at the base, a thousand feet below. + +The sledges were now left, and the dogs freed. They flew up a gully in +which the bear tracks guided an easy path. In a short time their +satisfying howls told of the bear's captivity. He had taken a position +on a table-rock, which was difficult for the dogs to climb. At an easy +distance from this rock were steep slopes of snow. One after another, +the dogs came tumbling down these slopes. With but a slight cuff of his +paw, the bear could toss the attacking dogs over dizzy heights. His +position was impregnable to the dogs, but, thus perched, he was a +splendid mark for E-tuk-i-shook. That doughty huntsman raised his gun, +and, following a shot, the bear rolled down the same slopes on which he +had hurled the dogs. To his carcass a span of strong dogs were soon +hitched, and it was hauled down to the sea level. Quickly dressed and +distributed, the bear was only a teasing mouthful to the ever-hungry +dogs. + +It was nearly midnight before we returned to our sledge packs. The work +of building the houses was rendered difficult by the failing moon and +the very low temperature. The lowest temperature of the season, -83°, +was reached this night. + +The sun rose in the morning of March 3 with warm colors, painting the +crystal world surrounding us with gorgeous tints of rose and old gold. +It was odd that in the glare of this enrapturing glory we should note +the coldest day of the year. + +With the returning sun in the Arctic comes the most frigid season. The +light is strongly purple, and one is tempted to ascribe to the genial +rays a heating influence which is as yet absent, owing to their slant. +The night-darkened surfaces prevent the new sunbeams from disseminating +any considerable heat, and the steadily falling temperature indicates +that the crust of the earth, as a result of its long desertion by the +sun in winter, is still unchecked in its cooling. Because of the +persistence of terrestrial radiation, we have the coldest weather of the +year with the ascending sun. + +It is a fortunate provision of nature that these icy days of the +ascending sun are usually accompanied by a breathless stillness. When +wind and storms come, the temperature quickly rises. It is doubtful if +any form of life could withstand a storm at -80° F. A quiet charm comes +with this eye-opening period. The spirits rise with indescribable +gladness, and, although the mercury is frozen, the body, when properly +dressed, is perfectly comfortable. The soft light of purple and gold, or +of lilac and rose, on the snowy slopes, dispels the chronic gloom of the +long night, while the tonic of a brightening air of frost returns the +flush to the pale cheeks. The stillness adds a charm, with which the +imagination plays. It is not the music of silence, nor the gold solitude +of summer, nor the deathlike stillness of the winter blackness. It is +the stillness of zero's lowest, which has a beauty of its own. + +The ice pinnacles are lined with hoar frost, on which there is a play of +rainbow colors. The tread of one's feet is muffled by feathery beds of +snow. The mountains, raised by the new glow of light or outlined by +colored shadows, stand against the brightened heavens in sculptured +magnificence. + +The bear admires his shadow, the fox peeps from behind his bushy tail, +devising a new cult, for his art of night will soon be a thing of the +past. The hare sits, with forelegs bent reverently, as if offering +prayers of gratitude. The musk ox stands in the brightest sun, with his +beautiful coat of black and blue, and absorbs the first heaven-given sun +bath, and man soars high in dreams of happiness. + +Shadows always attract the eye of primitive people and children. In a +world such as the one we were invading, with little to rest the eye from +perpetual glitter, they were to become doubly interesting. When we first +began observing our shadows, on March 3, I did not dream that a thing so +simple could rise to the dignity of a proof of the Polar conquest. But, +since then, I have come to the conclusion that, if a proof of this +much-discussed problem is at all possible, it is in the corroborative +evidence of just such little things as shadows. + +Accordingly, I have examined every note and impression bearing on +natural phenomena en route. + +To us, in our daily marches from Bay Fiord, the shadow became a thing +of considerable interest and importance. The Eskimo soul is something +apart from the body. The native believes it follows in the shadow. For +this reason, stormy, sunless days are gloomy times to the natives, for +the presence of the soul is then not in evidence. The night has the same +effect, although the moon often throws a clear-cut shadow. The native +believes the soul at times wanders from the body. When it does this, the +many rival spirits, which in their system of beliefs tenant the body, +get into all sorts of trouble. + +Every person, and every animal, has not only a soul which guards its +destiny, but every part of the body has an individual spirit--the arm, +the leg, the nose, the eye, the ear, and every other conceivable part of +the anatomy, with a peculiar individuality, throbs with a separate life. +The separate, wandering soul in the shadow is the guiding influence. + +Furthermore, there is no such conception as an absolutely inanimate +thing. The land, the sea, the air, ice, and snow, have great individual +spirits that ever engage in battle with each other. Even mountains, +valleys, rocks, icebergs, wood, iron, fire--all have spirits. All of +this gives them a keen interest in shadows in an otherwise desert of +gloom and death. + +Their entire religious creed would require a long time to work out. Even +that part of it which is represented by the shadow is quite beyond me. +As I observed in our following marches toward Svartevoeg, their keen +eyes detect in shadows incidents and messages of life, histories that +would fill volumes. The shadow is long or short, clear-cut or vague, +dark or light, blue or purple, violet or black. Each phase of it has a +special significance. It presages luck or ill-luck on the chase, +sickness and death in the future, the presence or unrest of the souls of +parted friends. Even the souls of the living sometimes get mixed. Then +there is love or intrigue. All the passions of wild life can be read +from the shadows. The most pathetic shadows had been the vague, ghastly +streaks of black that followed the body about a week before sunset in +October. At that time all the Arctic world is sad, and tears come +easily. + +The shadow does not quickly come back with the returning sun. Continuous +storms so screen the sunbeams that only a vague, diffused light reaches +the long night-blackened snows. When the joy of seeing the first shadows +exploded among my companions I did not know just what intoxication +infected the camp. With full stomachs of newly acquired musk ox loins, +we had slept. Suddenly the sun burst through a maze of burning clouds +and made our snow palace glow with electric darts. The temperature was +very low. Only half-dressed, the men rushed out, dancing with joy. + +Their shadows were long, sharp-cut, and of a deep, purple blue. They +danced with them. This brought them back to the normal life of Eskimo +hilarity. Then followed the pleasures of the thrill of the sunny days of +crystal air and blinding sparkle during never-to-be forgotten days of +the enervating chill of zero's lowest at -83° F. + +In the northward progress, for a long time the shadows did not +perceptibly shorten or brighten to my eyes. The natives, however, on our +subsequent marches, got from these shadows a never-ending variety of +topics to talk about. They foretold storms, located game, and read the +story of respective home entanglements of the Adamless Eden which we had +left far away on the Greenland shore. + +Our bear adventures took us on an advance trail over which progress was +easy. Beyond, the snow increased rapidly in depth with every mile. +Snowshoes were lashed to our feet for the first mile. We halted in our +march at noon, attacked suddenly by five wolves. The rifles were +prepared for defense. No shots were to be fired, however, unless active +battle was commenced. The creatures at close range were slightly +cream-colored, with a little gray along their backs, but at a greater +distance they seemed white. They came from the mountains, with a +chilling, hungry howl that brought shivers. The dogs were interested, +but made no offer to give chase. + +The wolves passed the advancing sledges at a distance, and gathered +about the rear sledge, which was separated from the train. The driver +turned his team to help in the fight. As the sledges neared, the teams +were stopped, the wolves sat down and delivered a maddening chorus of +chagrin. The dogs were restless, but only wiggled their tails. The men +stood still, with rifles pointed. The chorus ended. The battle was +declared off. Seeing that they were outnumbered, the howling creatures +turned and dashed up the snowy slopes, from which they had come, with a +storming rush. The train was lined up, and through the deep snow we +plowed westward. + +In two difficult marches we reached Eureka Sound. + +Wolves continued on our trail nearly every day along the west coast of +Acpohon, and also along North Devon. + +In the extreme North, the wolf, like the fox, is pure white, with black +points to the ears, and spots over the eyes. In the regions farther +south his fur is slightly gray. In size, he is slightly larger than the +Eskimo dog, his body longer and thinner, and he travels with his tail +down. Like the bear, he is a ceaseless wanderer during all seasons of +the year. + +In winter, wolves gather in groups of six or eight, and attack musk ox, +or anything in their line of march. But in summer they travel in pairs, +and become scavengers. The wolf is alert in estimating the number of his +combatants and their fighting qualities. Men and dogs in numbers he +never approaches within gunshot, contenting himself by howling +piercingly from mountains at a long distance. When a single sledge was +separated from the others, he would approach to an uncomfortable range. + +Bear tracks were also numerous. We were, however, too tired to give +chase. Close to a cape where we paused, on Eureka Sound, to cut +snow-blocks for igloos attached to the sledges, E-tuk-i-shook noted two +bears wandering over the lands not far away. Watching for a few moments +with the glasses, we noted that they were stalking a sleeping musk ox. +Now we did not care particularly for the bears, but the musk ox was +regarded as our own game, and we were not willing to divide it +knowingly. The packs were pitched into the snow, and the dogs rushed +through deep snow, over hummocks and rocks, to the creeping bears. + +As the bears turned, the rear attack seemed to offer sport, and they +rose to meet us. But as one team after the other bounced over the +nearest hills, their heads turned and they rushed up the steep slopes. +We now saw twenty musk oxen asleep in scattered groups. These interested +us more than the bears. The dogs were seemingly of the same mind, for +they required no urging to change the noses from the bears to the musk +oxen. + +As we wound around the hill upon which they rested, all at once arose, +shook off the snow, rubbed their horns on their knees, and then formed a +huge star. In a short time the entire herd was ours. The meat was +dressed, wrapped in skins, the dogs lightly fed, and the carcasses +hauled to camp. Then we completed our igloos. Bears and wolves wandered +about camp all night, but with one hundred dogs, whose eyes were on the +swelled larder, there was no danger from wild brutes. + +Early in the morning of March 4 we were awakened by a furious noise from +the dogs. Koo-loo-ting-wah peeked out and saw a bear in the act of +taking a choice strip of tenderloin from the meat. With a deft cut of +the knife, a falling block of snow made a window, and through it the +rifle was leveled at the animal. He was big, fat, and gave us just the +blubber required for our lamps. + +A holiday was declared. It would take time to stuff the dogs with twenty +musk oxen and a bear. Furthermore, our clothing needed attention. Boots, +mittens, and stockings had to be dried and mended. Some of our garments +were torn in places, permitting winds to enter. Much of the dog harness +required fixing. The Eskimos' sledges had been slightly broken. Later, +the same day, another herd of twenty musk oxen were seen. Now even the +Eskimo's savage thirst for blood was satisfied. The pot was kept +boiling, and the igloos rang with chants of primitive joys. + +On March 7 we began a straight run to the Polar sea, a distance of one +hundred and seventy miles. The weather was superb and the ice again free +of heavy snow. + +In six marches we reached Schei Island, which we found to be a +peninsula. We halted here and a feast day was declared. Twenty-seven +musk oxen and twenty-four hares were secured in one after-dinner hunt. +This meat guaranteed a food supply to the shores of the Polar sea. A +weight was lifted from my load of cares, for I had doubted the existence +of game far enough north to count on fresh meat to the sea. The +temperature was still low (-50° F.), but the nights were brightening, +and the days offered twelve hours of good light. Our outlook was hopeful +indeed. + +In the Polar campaign, the bear was unconsciously our best friend, and +also consciously our worst enemy. There were times when we admired him, +although he was never exactly friendly to us. There were other times +when we regarded him with a savage wrath. Only beyond the range of life +in the utmost North were we free from his attacks. In other places he +nosed our trail with curious persistence. He had attacked the first +party that was sent out to explore a route, under cover of night and +storms. One man was wounded, another lost the tail of his coat and a +part of his anatomy. + +In our march of glory through the musk ox land, the bear came as a +rival, and disputed not only our right to the chase, but also our right +to the product from our own catch. But we had guns and dogs, and the +bears fell easily. We were jealous of the quest of the musk ox. It +seemed properly to belong to the domain of man's game. We were equal at +the time to the task, and did not require the bear's help. + +The bears were good at figures, and quickly realized ours was a superior +fighting force. So they joined the ranks in order that they might share +in the division of the spoils. The bear's goodly mission was always +regarded with suspicion. We could easily spare the bones of our game, +which he delighted to pick. We were perfectly able to protect our booty +with one hundred dogs, whose dinners depended on open eyes. But the bear +did not always understand our tactics. We afterwards learned that we did +not always understand his, for he drove many prizes into our arms. But +man is a short-sighted critic--he sees only his side of the game. + +In the northern march a much more friendly spirit was developed. We +differed on many points of ethics with bruin, and our fights, successful +or otherwise, were too numerous and disagreeable to relate fully. Only +one of these battles will be recorded here, to save the reputation of +man as a superior fighting animal. + +We had made a long march of about forty miles. Already the dull purple +of twilight was resting heavily on darkening snows. The temperature was +-81°. There was no wind. The air was semi-liquid with suspended +crystals. When standing still we were perfectly comfortable, although +jets of steam from our nostrils arranged frost crescents about our +faces. + +We had been advancing towards a group of musk oxen for more than an +hour. We were now in the habit of living from catch to catch, filling up +on meat at the end of each successful hunt, and waiting for pot-luck for +the next meal. The sledges were too heavily loaded to carry additional +weight. Furthermore, the temperature was too low to split up frozen +meat. Indeed, most of our axes had been broken in trying to divide meat +as dog food. It was plainly an economy of axes and fuel to fill up on +warm meat as the skin was removed, and wait for the next plunder. + +We had been two days without setting eyes on an appetizing meal of +steaming meat. Not a living speck had crossed our horizon; and, +therefore, when we noted the little cloud of steam rise from a side +hill, and guessed that under it were herds of musk ox, our palates +moistened with anticipatory joys. A camping place was sought. Two domes +of snow were erected as a shelter. + +Through the glasses we counted twenty-one musk oxen. Some were digging +up snow to find willows; others were sleeping. All were unsuspecting. +After the experience we had in this kind of hunting, we confidently +counted the game as ours. A holiday was declared for the morrow, to +dispose of the surplus. Nourishment in prospect, one hundred dogs +started with a jump, under the lashes of ten Eskimos. Our sledges began +shooting the boreal shoots. After rushing over minor hills, the dog +noses sank into bear tracks. A little farther along, we realized we had +rivals. Two bears were far ahead, approaching the musk oxen. + +The dogs scented their rivals. The increased bounding of the sledges +made looping-the-loop seem tame. But we were too late; the bears ran +into the bunch of animals, and spoiled our game with no advantage to +themselves. Giving a half-hearted chase, they rose to a bank of snow, +deliberately sat down, and turned to a position to give us the laugh. + +The absence of musk ox did not slacken the pace of the dogs. The bears +were quick to see the force of our intent. They scattered and climbed. A +bear is an expert Alpinist; he requires no ice axe and no lantern. The +moon came out, and the snow slopes began to glare with an electric +incandescence. + +In this pearly light, the white bear seemed black, and was easily +located. One bear slipped into a ravine and was lost. All attention was +now given to the other, which was ascending an icy ridge to a commanding +precipice. We cut the dogs from the sledges. They soared up the white +slope as if they had wings. The bear gained the crest in time to cuff +away each rising antagonist. The dogs tumbled over each other, down +several hundred feet into a soft snow-padded gully. Other dogs continued +to rise on the ridge to keep the bear guessing. The dogs in the pit +discovered a new route, and made a combined rear attack. Bruin was +surprised, and turned to face his enemies. Backing from a sudden +assault, he stepped over a precipice, and tumbled in a heap into the +dog-strewn pit. The battle was now on in full force. Finding four feet +more useful than one mouth, the bear turned on his back and sent his +paws out with telling effect. The dogs, although not giving up the +battle, scattered, for the swing of the creature's feet did not suit +their battle methods. Sitting on curled tails, they filled the air with +murderous howls and raised clouds of frozen breath in the flying snow. + +We were on the scene at a safe distance, each with a tight grip on his +gun, expecting the bear to make a sudden plunge. But he was not given a +choice of movement, and we could not shoot into the darting pit of dogs +without injuring them. At this moment Ah-we-lah, youngest of the party, +advanced. Leaving his gun, he descended through the dog ranks into the +pit, with the spiked harpoon shaft. The bear threw back its head to meet +him. A score of dogs grabbed the bear's feet. Ah-we-lah raised his arm. +A sudden savage thrust sank the blunt steel into the bear's chest. +Cracking whips, we scattered the guarding dogs. The prize was quickly +divided. + +On our advance to the Polar sea, I found that there is considerable art +in building snowhouses. The casual observer is likely to conclude that +it is an easy problem to pile up snow-blocks, dome-shaped, but to do +this properly, so that the igloo will withstand wind, requires adept +work. From the lessons of my companions in this art I now became more +alert to learn, knowing the necessity of protection on our Polar dash. + +The first problem is to find proper snow. One has often to seek for +banks where the snow is just hard enough. If it is too hard, it cannot +be easily cut with knives. If it is too soft, the blocks will crush, and +cause the house to cave in. Long knives are the best instruments--one of +fifteen inches and another about ten. From sixty to seventy-five blocks, +fifteen by twenty-four inches, are required to make a house ten feet by +ten. The blocks are cut according to the snow, but fifteen by +twenty-four by eight inches is the best size. + +The lower tiers of blocks are set in slight notches in the snow, to +prevent the blocks from slipping out. A slight tilt begins from the +first tiers; the next tier tilts still more, and so the next. The blocks +are set so that the upper blocks cover the breaks in the lower tier. The +fitting is done mostly with the blocks in position, the knife being +passed between the blocks to and fro, with a pressure on the blocks with +the other hand. The hardest task is to make the blocks stick without +holding in the upper tiers. This is done by deft cuts with the knife and +a slight thump of the blocks. + +The dome is the most difficult part to build. In doing this all blocks +are leveled and carefully set to arch the roof. + +When the structure is completed, a candle is lit and the cracks are +stuffed by cutting the edges off the nearest blocks, and pressing the +broken snow into the cracks with the mittens. After this process, the +interior arrangement is worked out. The foot space is first cut out in +blocks. If the snow is on a slope, as it often happens, these blocks are +raised and the upper slopes are cut down to a level plane. + +The foot space is a very important matter, first for the comfort of +sitting, and also to let off the carbonic acid gas, which quickly +settles in these temperatures and extinguishes the fires. It, of course, +has also an important bearing on human breathing. + +Inhalation of very cold air at this time forced an unconscious +expenditure of very much energy. The extent of this tax can be gauged +only by the enormous difference between the temperature of the body and +that of the air. One day it was -72° F. The difference was, therefore, +170°. It is hard to conceive of normal breathing under such +difficulties; but when properly clothed and fed, no great discomfort or +ill-effects are noted. The membranes of the air passages are, however, +overflushed with blood. The chest circulation is forced to its limits, +and the heart beats are increased and strengthened. The organs of +circulation and respiration, which do ninety per cent. of the work of +the body, are taxed with a new burden that must be counted in estimating +one's day's task. This loss of power in breathing extreme frost is +certain to reduce working time and bodily force. + +The land whose coast we were following to the shores of the Polar sea is +part of the American hemisphere, and one of the largest islands of the +world, spreading 30° longitude and rising 7° of latitude. What is its +name? The question must remained unanswered, for it not only has no +general name, but numerous sections are written with names and outlines +that differ to a large extent with the caprice of the explorers who have +been there. + +The south is called Lincoln Land; above it, Ellesmere Land. Then comes +Schley Land, Grinnell Land, Arthur Land, and Grant Land, with other +lands of later christening by Sverdrup and others. + +No human beings inhabit the island. No nation assumes the responsibility +of claiming or protecting it. The Eskimo calls the entire country +Acpohon, or "the Land of Guillemots," which are found in great abundance +along the southeast point. I have, therefore, to avoid conflictions, +affixed the name of Acpohon as the general designation. + +We had now advanced beyond the range of all primitive life. No human +voice broke the frigid silence. The Eskimos had wandered into the +opening of the musk ox pass. Sverdrup had mapped the channels of the +west coast. But here was no trace of modern or aboriginal residence. +There is no good reason why men should not have followed the musk oxen +here, but the nearest Eskimos on the American side are those on +Lancaster Sound. + +I found an inspiration in being thus alone at the world's end. The +barren rocks, the wastes of snow-fields, the mountains stripped of +earlier ice-sheets, and every phase of the landscape, assured a new +interest. There was a note of absolute abandon on the part of nature. If +our own resources failed, or if a calamity overtook us, there would be +no trace to mark icy graves forever hidden from surviving loved ones. + +My Eskimo comrades were enthusiastic explorers. The game trails gave a +touch of animation to their steps, which meant much to the progress of +the expedition. We not only saw musk oxen in large herds, but tracks of +bears and wolves were everywhere in line with our course. On the sea-ice +we noted many seal blow-holes. Already the natives talked of coming here +on the following year to cast their lot in the new wilds. + +The picturesque headland of Schie we found to be a huge triassic rock of +the same general formation as that indicated along Eureka Sound. Its +west offered a series of grassy slopes bared by persistent winds, upon +which animal life found easy access to the winter-cured grass. A narrow +neck of land connected what seemed like an island with the main land. +Here caches of fur and fuel were left for the return. In passing Snag's +Fiord the formation changed. Here, for several marches, game was scarce. +The temperature rose as we neared the Polar sea. The snow became much +deeper but it was hardened by stronger winds and increased humidity. +High glacier-abandoned valleys with gradual slopes to the water's edge, +gave the Heiberg shores on Nansen Sound a different type of landscape +from that of the opposite shores. Here and there we found pieces of +lignite coal, and as we neared Svartevoeg the carboniferous formation +became more evident. + +Camping in the lowlands just south of Svartevoeg Cliffs we secured seven +musk oxen and eighty-five hares. Here were immense fields of grass and +moss bared by persistent winter gales. By a huge indentation here, +through which we saw the sea-level ice of the west, the shores seemed to +indicate that the point of Heiberg is an island, but of this we were not +absolutely sure. To us it was a great surprise that here, on the shores +of the Polar sea, we found a garden spot of plant luxuriance and animal +delight. For this assured, in addition to the caches left en route, a +sure food supply for the return from our mission to the North. + + + + +THE TRANS-BOREAL DASH BEGINS + +BY FORCED EFFORTS AND THE USE OF AXES SPEED IS MADE OVER THE +LAND--ADHERING PACK ICE OF POLAR SEA--THE MOST DIFFICULT TRAVEL OF THE +PROPOSED JOURNEY SUCCESSFULLY ACCOMPLISHED--REGRETFUL PARTING WITH THE +ESKIMOS + +XIII + +FIVE HUNDRED MILES FROM THE POLE + + +Svartevoeg is a great cliff, the northernmost point of Heiberg Land, +which leaps precipitously into the Polar sea. Its negroid face of black +scarred rocks frowns like the carven stone countenance of some hideously +mutilated and enraged Titan savage. It expresses, more than a human face +could, the unendurable sufferings of this region of frigid horrors. It +is five hundred and twenty miles from the North Pole. + +From this point I planned to make my dash in as straight a route as +might be possible. Starting from our camp at Annoatok late in February, +when the curtain of night was just beginning to lift, when the chill of +the long winter was felt at its worst, we had forced progress through +deep snows, over land and frozen seas, braving the most furious storms +of the season and traveling despite baffling darkness, and had covered +in less than a month about four hundred miles--nearly half the distance +between our winter camp and the Pole. + +Arriving at land's end my heart had cause for gratification. We had +weathered the worst storms of the year. The long bitter night had now +been lost. The days lengthened and invaded with glitter the decreasing +nights. The sun glowed more radiantly daily, rose higher and higher to a +continued afterglow in cheery blues, and sank for periods briefer and +briefer in seas of running color. Our hopes, like those of all mankind, +had risen with the soul-lifting sun. We had made our progress mainly at +the expense of the land which we explored, for the game en route had +furnished food and clothing. + +The supplies we had brought with us from Annoatok were practically +untouched. We had stepped in overfed skins, were fired by a resolution +which was recharged by a strength bred of feeding upon abundant raw and +wholesome meat. Eating to repletion on unlimited game, our bodies were +kept in excellent trim by the exigencies of constant and difficult +traveling. + +As a man's mental force is the result of yesteryears' upbuilding, so his +strength of to-day is the result of last week's eating. With the surge +of ambition which had been formulating for twenty years, and my body in +best physical shape for the supreme test, the Pole now seemed almost +near. + +As the great cliffs of Svartevoeg rose before us my heart leaped. I felt +that the first rung in the ladder of success had been climbed, and as I +stood under the black cliffs of this earth's northernmost land I felt +that I looked through the eyes of long experience. Having reached the +end of Nansen Sound, with Svartevoeg on my left, and the tall, scowling +cliffs of Lands-Lokk on my right, I viewed for the first time the rough +and heavy ice of the untracked Polar sea, over which, knowing the +conditions of the sea ice, I anticipated the most difficult part of our +journey lay. Imagine before you fields of crushed ice, glimmering in the +rising sunlight with shooting fires of sapphire and green; fields which +have been slowly forced downward by strong currents from the north, and +pounded and piled in jagged mountainous heaps for miles about the land. +Beyond this difficult ice, as I knew, lay more even fields, over which +traveling, saving the delays of storms and open leads, would be +comparatively easy. To encompass this rough prospect was the next step +in reaching my goal. I felt that no time must be lost. At this point I +was now to embark upon the Polar sea; the race for my life's ambition +was to begin here; but first I had finally to resolve on the details of +my campaign. + +I decided to reduce my party to the smallest possible number consistent +with the execution of the problem in hand. In addition, for greater +certainty of action over the unknown regions beyond, I now definitely +resolved to simplify the entire equipment. An extra sled was left at the +cache at this point to insure a good vehicle for our return in case the +two sleds which we were to take should be badly broken en route. I +decided to take only two men on the last dash. I had carefully watched +and studied every one of my party, and had already selected +E-tuk-i-shook and Ah-we-lah, two young Eskimos, each about twenty years +old, as best fitted to be my sole companions in the long run of destiny. + +Twenty-six of the best dogs were picked, and upon two sleds were to be +loaded all our needs for a trip estimated to last eighty days. + +To have increased this party would not have enabled us to carry supplies +for a greater number of days. + +The sleds might have been loaded more heavily, but I knew this would +reduce the important progress of the first days. + +With the character of ice which we had before us, advance stations were +impossible. A large expedition and a heavy equipment would have been +imprudent. We must win or lose in a prolonged effort at high pressure. +Therefore, absolute control and ease of adaptability to a changing +environment was imperative. + +From past experience I knew it was impossible to control adequately the +complex human temperament of white men in the Polar wilderness. But I +felt certain the two Eskimo boys could be trusted to follow to the limit +of my own endurance. So our sleds were burdened only with absolute +necessaries. + +Because of the importance of a light and efficient equipment, much care +had to be taken to reduce every ounce of weight. The sleds were made of +hickory, the lightest wood consistent with great endurance, and every +needless fibre was gouged out. The iron shoes were ground thin, and up +to the present had stood the test of half the Polar battle. + +Eliminating everything not actually needed, but selecting adequate food, +I made the final preparations. + +The camp equipment selected included the following articles: One blow +fire lamp (jeuel), three aluminum pails, three aluminum cups, three +aluminum teaspoons, one tablespoon, three tin plates, six pocket +knives, two butcher knives (ten inches), one saw knife (thirteen +inches), one long knife (fifteen inches), one rifle (Sharp's), one rifle +(Winchester .22), one hundred and ten cartridges, one hatchet, one +Alpine axe, extra line and lashings, and three personal bags. + +The sled equipment consisted of two sleds weighing fifty-two pounds +each; one twelve-foot folding canvas boat, the wood of which formed part +of a sled; one silk tent, two canvas sled covers, two reindeer skin +sleeping bags, floor furs, extra wood for sled repairs, screws, nails +and rivets. + +My instruments were as follows: One field glass; one pocket compass; one +liquid compass; one aluminum surveying compass, with azimuth attachment; +one French surveyor's sextant, with radius 7½, divided on silver to +10´, reading by Vernier to 10´´ (among the extra attachments were a +terrestrial and an astronomical telescope, and an extra night telescope +mounted in aluminum, and also double refracting prisms, thermometers, +etc.--the instrument was made by Hurleman of France and bought of +Keuffel & Esser); one glass artificial horizon; three Howard pocket +chronometers; one Tiffany watch; one pedometer; map-making material and +instruments; three thermometers; one aneroid barometer; one camera and +films; notebook and pencils. + +The personal bags contained four extra pairs of kamiks, with fur +stockings, a woolen shirt, three pairs of sealskin mittens, two pairs of +fur mittens, a piece of blanket, a sealskin coat (netsha), extra fox +tails and dog harness, a repair kit for mending clothing, and much other +necessary material. + +On the march we wore snow goggles, blue fox coats (kapitahs) and +birdskin shirts (Ah-tea), bearskin pants (Nan-nooka), sealskin boots +(Kam-ik), hare-skin stockings (Ah-tee-shah), and a band of fox tails +under the knee and about the waist. + +The food supply, as will be seen by the following list, was mostly +pemmican: + +Eight hundred and five pounds of beef pemmican, one hundred and thirty +pounds of walrus pemmican, fifty pounds of musk ox tenderloin, +twenty-five pounds of musk ox tallow, two pounds of tea, one pound of +coffee, twenty-five pounds of sugar, forty pounds of condensed milk, +sixty pounds of milk biscuit, ten pounds of pea soup powdered and +compressed, fifty pounds of surprises, forty pounds petroleum, two +pounds of wood alcohol, three pounds of candles and one pound of +matches. + +We planned our future food supply with pemmican as practically the sole +food; the other things were to be mere palate satisfiers. For the eighty +days the supply was to be distributed as follows: + +For three men: Pemmican, one pound per day for eighty days, two hundred +and forty pounds. For six dogs: Pemmican, one pound per day for eighty +days, four hundred and eighty pounds. This necessitated a total of seven +hundred and twenty pounds of pemmican. + +Of the twenty-six dogs, we had at first figured on taking sixteen over +the entire trip to the Pole and back to our caches on land, but in this +last calculation only six were to be taken. Twenty, the least useful, +were to be used one after the other, as food on the march, as soon as +reduced loads and better ice permitted. This, we counted, would give one +thousand pounds of fresh meat over and above our pemmican supply. We +carried about two hundred pounds of pemmican above the expected +consumption, and in the final working out the dogs were used for +traction purposes longer than we anticipated. But, with a cautious +saving, the problem was solved somewhat more economically than any +figuring before the start indicated. + +Every possible article of equipment was made to do double service; not +an ounce of dead weight was carried which could be dispensed with. + +After making several trips about Svartevoeg, arranging caches for the +return, studying the ice and land, I decided to make the final start on +the Polar sea on March 18, 1908. + +The time had come to part with most of our faithful Eskimo companions. +Taking their hands in my manner of parting, I thanked them as well as I +could for their faithful service to me. "_Tigishi ah yaung-uluk!_" (The +big nail!), they replied, wishing me luck. + +Then, in a half gale blowing from the northwest and charged with snow, +they turned their backs upon me and started upon the return track. They +carried little but ammunition, because we had learned that plenty of +game was to be provided along the return courses. + +Even after they were out of sight in the drifting snowstorm their voices +came cheerily back to me. The faithful savages had followed me until +told that I could use them no longer; and it was not only for their +simple pay of knives and guns, but because of a real desire to be +helpful. Their parting enforced a pang of loneliness.[10] + +With a snow-charged blast in our faces it was impossible for us to start +immediately after the Eskimos returned. Withdrawing to the snow igloo, +we entered our bags and slept a few hours longer. At noon the horizon +cleared. The wind veered to the southwest and came with an endurable +force. Doubly rationed the night before, the dogs were not to be fed +again for two days. The time had come to start. We quickly loaded our +sleds. Hitching the dogs, we let the whips fall, and with bounds they +leaped around deep ice grooves in the great paleocrystic floes. + +Our journey was begun. Swept of snow by the force of the preceding +storm, the rough ice crisply cracked under the swift speed of our sleds. +Even on this uneven surface the dogs made such speed that I kept ahead +of them only with difficulty. Their barking pealed about us and +re-echoed from the black cliffs behind. Dashing about transparent +ultramarine gorges, and about the base of miniature mountains of ice, we +soon came into a region of undulating icy hills. The hard irregularity +of the ice at times endangered our sleds. We climbed over ridges like +walls. We jumped dangerous crevasses, keeping slightly west by north; +the land soon sank in the rear of us. Drifting clouds and wind-driven +snows soon screened the tops of black mountains. Looking behind, I saw +only a swirling, moving scene of dull white and nebulous gray. On every +side ice hummocks heaved their backs and writhed by. Behind me followed +four snugly loaded sleds, drawn by forty-four selected dogs, under the +lash of four expert Eskimo drivers. The dogs pranced; the joyous cries +of the natives rose and fell. My heart leaped; my soul sang. I felt my +blood throb with each gallop of the leaping dog teams. The sound of +their feet pattering on the snow, the sight of their shaggy bodies +tossing forward, gave me joy. For every foot of ice covered, every +minute of constant action, drew me nearer, ever nearer, to my goal. + +Our first run was auspicious; it seemed to augur success. By the time we +paused to rest we had covered twenty-six miles. + +We pitched camp on a floeberg of unusual height; about us were many big +hummocks, and to the lee of these banks of hardened snow. Away from land +it is always more difficult to find snow suitable for cutting building +blocks. There, however, was an abundance. We busily built, in the course +of an hour, a comfortable snow igloo. Into it we crept, grateful for +shelter from the piercing wind. + +The dogs curled up and went to sleep without a call, as if they knew +that there would be no food until to-morrow. My wild companions covered +their faces with their long hair and sank quietly into slumber. For me +sleep was impossible. The whole problem of our campaign had again to be +carefully studied, and final plans made, not only to reach our ultimate +destination, but for the two returning Eskimos and for the security of +the things left at Annoatok, and also to re-examine the caches left en +route for our return. These must be protected as well as possible +against the bears and wolves. + +Already I had begun to think of our return to land. It was difficult at +this time even to approximate any probable course. Much would depend +upon conditions to be encountered in the northward route. Although we +had left caches of supplies with the object of returning along Nansen +Sound, into Cannon Fiord and over Arthur Land, I entertained grave +doubts of our ability to return this way. I knew that if the ice should +drift strongly to the east we might not be given the choice of working +out our own return. For, in such an event, we should perhaps be carried +helplessly to Greenland, and should have to seek a return either along +the east or the west coast. + +This drift, in my opinion, would not necessarily mean dangerous +hardships, for the musk oxen would keep us alive to the west, and to the +east it seemed possible to reach Shannon Island, where the +Baldwin-Zeigler expeditions had abandoned a large cache of supplies. It +appeared not improbable, also, that a large land extension might offer a +safe return much further west. I fell asleep while pondering over these +things. By morning the air was clear of frost crystals. It was intensely +cold, not only because of a temperature of 56° below zero, Fahrenheit, +but a humid chill which pierced to the very bones. A light breeze came +from the west. The sun glowed in a freezing field of blue. + +Hitching our dogs, we started. For several hours we seemed to soar over +the white spaces. Then the ice changed in character, the expansive, +thick fields of glacier-like ice giving way to floes of moderate size +and thickness. These were separated by zones of troublesome crushed ice +thrown into high-pressure lines, which offered serious barriers. +Chopping the pathway with an ice axe, we managed to make fair progress. +We covered twenty-one miles of our second run on the Polar sea. I +expected, at the beginning of this final effort, to send back by this +time the two extra men, Koo-loo-ting-wah and In-u-gi-to, who had +remained to help us over the rough pack-ice. But progress had not been +as good as I had expected; so, although we could hardly spare any food +to feed their dogs, the two volunteered to push along for another day +without dog food. + +Taking advantage of big, strong teams and the fire of early enthusiasm, +we aimed to force long distances through the extremely difficult ice +jammed here against the distant land. The great weight of the supplies +intended for the final two sleds were now distributed over four sleds. +With axe and compass in hand, I led the way. With prodigious effort I +chopped openings through barriers after barriers of ice. Sled after sled +was passed over the tumbling series of obstacles by my companions while +I advanced to open a way through the next. With increasing difficulties +in some troublesome ice, we camped after making only sixteen miles. +Although weary, we built a small snowhouse. I prepared over my stove a +pot of steaming musk ox loins and broth and a double brew of tea. After +partaking of this our two helpers prepared to return. To have taken them +farther would have necessitated a serious drain on our supplies and an +increased danger for their lives in a longer return to land. + +By these men I sent back instructions to Rudolph Francke to remain in +charge of my supplies at Annoatok until June 5th, 1908, and then, if we +should not have returned by that date, to place Koo-loo-ting-wah in +charge and go home either by a whaler or some Danish ship. I knew that, +should we get in trouble, he could offer no relief to help us, and that +his waiting an indefinite time alone would be a needless hardship. + +[Illustration: DASHING FORWARD EN ROUTE TO THE POLE] + +[Illustration: DEPARTURE OF SUPPORTING PARTY + +A BREATHING SPELL + +POLEWARD!] + +The way before Koo-loo-ting-wah and In-u-gi-to, who had so cheerfully +remained to the last possible moment that they could be of help, was not +an entirely pleasant one. Their friends were by now well on their +journey toward Annoatok, and they had to start after them with sleds +empty of provisions and dogs hungry for food. + +They hoped to get back to land and off the ice of the Polar sea in one +long day's travel of twenty-four hours. Even this would leave their +fourth day without food for their dogs. In case of storms or moving of +the ice, other days of famine might easily fall to their lot. However, +they faced possible dangers cheerfully rather than ask me to give them +anything from the stores that were to support their two companions, +myself and our dogs on our way onward to the Pole and back. I was deeply +touched by this superlative devotion. They assured me too (in which they +were right) that they had an abundance of possible food in the eighteen +dogs they took with them. If necessary, they could sacrifice a few at +any time for the benefit of the others, as must often be done in the +Northland. + +There were no formalities in our parting on the desolate ice. Yet, as +the three of us who were left alone gazed after our departing +companions, we felt a poignant pang in our hearts. About us was a +cheerless waste of crushed wind-and-water-driven ice. A sharp wind +stung our faces. The sun was obscured by clouds which piled heavily and +darkly about the horizon. The cold and brilliant jeweled effects of the +frozen sea were lost in a dismal hue of dull white and sombre gray. On +the horizon, Svartevoeg, toward which the returning Eskimos were bound, +was but a black speck. To the north, where our goal lay, our way was +untrodden, unknown. The thought came to me that perhaps we should never +see our departing friends. With it came a pang of tenderness for the +loved ones I had left behind me. Although our progress so far had been +successful, and half the distance was made, dangers unknown and +undreamed of existed in the way before us. My Eskimos already showed +anxiety--an anxiety which every aboriginal involuntarily feels when land +disappears on the horizon. Never venturing themselves far onto the Polar +sea, when they lose sight of land a panic overcomes them. Before leaving +us one of the departing Eskimos had pointed out a low-lying cloud to the +north of us. "Noona" (land), he said, nodding to the others. The thought +occurred to me that, on our trip, I could take advantage of the mirages +and low clouds on the horizon and encourage a belief in a constant +nearness to land, thus maintaining their courage and cheer.[11] + +Regrets and fears were not long-lasting, however, for the exigencies of +our problem were sufficiently imperative and absorbing. To the +overcoming of these we had now to devote our entire attention and strain +every fibre. + +We had now advanced, by persistent high-pressure efforts, over the worst +possible ice conditions, somewhat more than sixty miles. Of the 9° +between land's end and the Pole, we had covered one; and we had done +this without using the pound of food per day allotted each of us out of +the eighty days' supply transported. + +[Illustration: POLAR BEAR] + + + + +OVER THE POLAR SEA TO THE BIG LEAD + +WITH TWO ESKIMO COMPANIONS, THE RACE POLEWARD CONTINUES OVER ROUGH AND +DIFFICULT ICE--THE LAST LAND FADES BEHIND--MIRAGES LEAP INTO BEING AND +WEAVE A MYSTIC SPELL--A SWIRLING SCENE OF MOVING ICE AND FANTASTIC +EFFECTS--STANDING ON A HILL OF ICE, A BLACK, WRITHING, SNAKY CUT APPEARS +IN THE ICE BEYOND--THE BIG LEAD--A NIGHT OF ANXIETY--FIVE HUNDRED MILES +ALREADY COVERED--FOUR HUNDRED TO THE POLE + +XIV + +TO EIGHTY-THIRD PARALLEL + + +Our party, thus reduced to three, went onward. Although the isolation +was more oppressive, there were the advantages of the greater comfort, +safety, speed and convenience that came from having only a small band. +The large number of men in a big expedition always increases +responsibilities and difficulties. In the early part of a Polar venture +this disadvantage is eliminated by the facilities to augment supplies by +the game en route and by ultimate advantages of the law of the survival +of the fittest. But after the last supporting sleds return, the men are +bound to each other for protection and can no longer separate. A +disabled or unfitted dog can be fed to his companions, but an injured +or weak man cannot be eaten nor left alone to die. An exploring venture +is only as strong as its weakest member, and increased numbers, like +increased links in a chain, reduce efficiency. + +Moreover, personal idiosyncrasies and inconveniences always shorten a +day's march. And, above all, a numerous party quickly divides into +cliques, which are always opposed to each other, to the leader, and +invariably to the best interests of the problem in hand. With but two +savage companions, to whom this arduous task was but a part of an +accustomed life of frost, I did not face many of the natural personal +barriers which contributed to the failure of former Arctic expeditions. + +In my judgment, when you double a Polar party its chances for success +are reduced one-half; when you divide it, strength and security are +multiplied. + +We had been traveling about two and one-half miles per hour. By making +due allowances for detours and halts at pressure lines, the number of +hours traveled gave us a fair estimate of the day's distance. Against +this the pedometer offered a check, and the compass gave the course. +Thus, over blank charts, our course was marked. + +By this kind of dead reckoning our position on March 20 was: Latitude, +82° 23´; Longitude, 95° 14´. A study of our location seemed to +indicate that we had passed beyond the zone of ice crushed by the +influence of land pressure. Behind were great hummocks and small ice; +ahead was a cheerful expanse of larger, clearer fields, offering a +promising highway. + +Our destination was now about four hundred and sixty miles beyond. Our +life, with its pack environment, assumed another aspect. Previously we +permitted ourselves some luxuries. A pound of coal oil and a good deal +of musk ox tallow were burned each day to heat the igloo and to cook +abundant food. Extra meals were served when occasion called for them, +and for each man there had been all the food and drink he desired. If +the stockings or the mittens were wet there was fire enough to dry them +out. All of this had now to be changed. + +Hereafter there was to be a short daily allowance of food and fuel--one +pound of pemmican a day for the dogs, about the same for the men, with +just a taste of other things. Fortunately, we were well provided with +fresh meat for the early part of the race by the lucky run through game +lands. Because of the need of fuel economy we now cut our pemmican with +an axe. Later it split the axe. + +At first no great hardship followed our changed routine. We filled up +sufficiently on two cold meals daily and also depended on superfluous +bodily tissue. It was no longer possible to jump on the sled for an +occasional breathing spell, as we had done along the land. + +Such a journey as now confronted us is a long-continued, hard, +difficult, sordid, body-exhausting thing. Each day some problem presents +some peculiar condition of the ice or state of the weather. The effort, +for instance, to form some shield from intense cold gives added interest +to the game. That one thing after another is being met, with always the +anticipation of next day's struggle, adds a thrill to the conquest, +spurs one to greater and ever greater feats, and really constitutes the +actual victory of such a quest. With overloaded sleds the drivers must +now push and pull at them to aid the dogs. My task was to search the +troubled ice for easy routes, cutting away here and there with the +ice-axe to permit the passing of the sleds. + +Finally stripping for the race, man and dog must walk along together +through storms and frost for the elusive goal. Success or failure must +depend mostly upon our ability to transport nourishment and to keep up +the muscular strength for a prolonged period. + +As we awoke on the morning of March 21 and peered out of the eye-port of +the igloo, the sun edged along the northeast. A warm orange glow +suffused the ice and gladdened our hearts. The temperature was 63° below +zero, Fahrenheit; the barometer was steady and high. There was almost no +wind. Not a cloud lined the dome of pale purple blue, but a smoky streak +along the west shortened our horizon in that direction and marked a lead +of open water. + +Our breakfast consisted of two cups of tea, a watch-sized biscuit, a +chip of frozen meat and a boulder of pemmican. Creeping out of our bags, +our shivering legs were pushed through bearskin cylinders which served +as trousers. We worked our feet into frozen boots and then climbed into +fur coats. Next we kicked the front out of the snowhouse and danced +about to stimulate heart action. + +Quickly the camp furnishings were tossed on the sleds and securely +lashed. We gathered the dog traces into the drag lines, vigorously +snapped the long whips, and the willing creatures bent to the shoulder +straps. The sleds groaned. The unyielding snows gave a metallic ring. +The train moved with a cheerful pace. + +"_Am-my noona terronga dosangwah_" (Perhaps land will be out of sight +today), we said to one another.[12] But the words did not come with +serious intent. In truth, each in his own way felt keenly that we were +leaving a world of life and possible comfort for one of torment and +suffering. Axel Heiberg Land, to the south, was already only a dull blue +haze, while Grant Land, on the eastward, was making fantastic figures of +its peaks and ice walls. The ice ran in waves of undulating blue, +shimmering with streams of gold, before us. Behind, the last vestiges of +jagged land rose and fell like marionettes dancing a wild farewell. Our +heart-pulls were backward, our mental kicks were forward. + +Until now this strange white world had been one of grim reality. As +though some unseen magician had waved his wand, it was suddenly +transformed into a land of magic. Leaping into existence, as though from +realms beyond the horizon, huge mirages wove a web of marvelous +delusional pictures about the horizon. Peaks of snow were transformed +into volcanoes, belching smoke; out of the pearly mist rose marvelous +cities with fairy-like castles; in the color-shot clouds waved golden +and rose and crimson pennants from pinnacles and domes of mosaic-colored +splendor. Huge creatures, misshapen and grotesque, writhed along the +horizon and performed amusing antics. + +Beginning now, and rarely absent, these spectral denizens of the North +accompanied us during the entire journey; and later, when, fagged of +brain and sapped of bodily strength, I felt my mind swimming in a sea of +half-consciousness, they filled me almost with horror, impressing me as +the monsters one sees in a nightmare. + +At every breathing spell in the mad pace our heads now turned to land. +Every look was rewarded by a new prospect. From belching volcanoes to +smoking cities of modern bustle, the mirages gave a succession of +striking scenes which filled me with awed and marveling delight. A more +desolate line of coast could not be imagined. Along its edge ran low +wind-swept and wind-polished mountains. These were separated by valleys +filled with great depths of snow and glacial ice. + +Looking northward, the sky line was clear of the familiar pinnacles of +icebergs. In the immediate vicinity many small bergs were seen; some of +these were grounded, and the pack thus anchored was thrown in huge +uplifts of pressure lines and hummocks. The sea, as is thereby +determined, is very shallow for a long distance from land. + +This interior accumulation of snow moves slowly to the sea, where it +forms a low ice wall, a glacier of the Malaspina type. Its appearance is +more like that of heavy sea ice; hence the name of the paleocrystic ice, +fragments from this glacier, floebergs, which, seen in Lincoln Sea and +resembling old floes, were supposed to be the product of the ancient +upbuilding of the ice of the North Polar Sea. + +Snapping our whips and urging the dogs, we traveled until late in the +afternoon, mirages constantly appearing and melting about us. Now the +land suddenly settled downward as if by an earthquake. The pearly +glitter, which had raised and magnified it, darkened. A purple fabric +fell over the horizon and merged imperceptibly into the lighter purple +blue of the upper skies. We saw the land, however, at successive periods +for several days. This happened whenever the atmosphere was in the right +condition to elevate the terrestrial contour lines by refracting sun +rays. + +Every condition favored us on this march. The wind was not strong and +struck us at an angle, permitting us to guard our noses by pushing a +mitten under our hoods or by raising a fur-clad hand. + +We had not been long in the field, however, when the wind, that +ever-present dragon guardian of the unseen northern monarch's demesne, +began to suck strength from our bodies. Shortly before Grant Land +entirely faded the monster fawned on us with gentle breathing. + +The snow was hard, and the ice, in fairly large fields separated by +pressure lines, offered little resistance. On March 21, at the end of a +forced effort of fourteen hours, the register indicated a progress of +twenty-nine miles. + +Too weary to build an igloo, we threw ourselves thoughtlessly upon the +sleds for a short rest, and fell asleep. I was awakened from my fitful +slumber by a feeling of compression, as if stifling arms hideously +gripped me. It was the wind. I breathed with difficulty. I struggled to +my feet, and about me hissed and wailed the dismal sound. It was a sharp +warning to us that to sleep without the shelter of an igloo would +probably mean death. + +On the heavy floe upon which we rested were several large hummocks. To +the lee of one of these we found suitable snow for a shelter. + +Lines of snowy vapor were rushing over the pack. The wind came with +rapidly increasing force. We erected the house, however, before we +suffered severely from the blast. We crept into it out of the storm and +nested in warm furs. + +The wind blew fiercely throughout the night. By the next morning, March +22, the storm had eased to a steady, light breeze. The temperature was +59° below zero. We emerged from our igloo at noon. Although the +cheerless gray veil had been swept from the frigid dome of the sky, to +the north appeared a low black line over a pearly cloud which gave us +much uneasiness. This was a narrow belt of "water-sky," which indicated +open water or very thin ice at no great distance. + +The upper surface of Grant Land was now a mere thin pen line on the edge +of the horizon. But a play of land clouds above it attracted the eyes to +the last known rocks of solid earth. We now felt keenly the piercing +cold of the Polar sea. The temperature gradually rose to 46° F. below +zero, in the afternoon, but there was a deadly chill in the long shadows +which increased with the swing of the lowering sun. + +A life-sapping draught, which sealed the eyes and bleached the nose, +still hissed over the frozen sea. We had hoped that this would soften +with the midday sun. Instead, it came with a more cutting sharpness. In +the teeth of the wind we persistently pursued a course slightly west of +north. The wind was slightly north of west. It struck us at a painful +angle and brought tears. Our moistened lashes quickly froze together as +we winked, and when we rubbed them and drew apart the lids the icicles +broke the tender skin. Our breath froze on our faces. Often we had to +pause, uncover our hands and apply the warm palms to the face before it +was possible to see. + +Every minute thus lost filled me with impatience and dismay. Minutes of +traveling were as precious as bits of gold to a hoarding miser. + +In the course of a brief time our noses became tipped with a white skin +and also required nursing. My entire face was now surrounded with ice, +but there was no help for it. If we were to succeed the face must be +bared to the cut of the elements. So we must suffer. We continued, +urging the dogs and struggling with the wind just as a drowning man +fights for life in a storm at sea. + +About six o'clock, as the sun crossed the west, we reached a line of +high-pressure ridges. Beyond these the ice was cut into smaller floes +and thrown together into ugly irregularities. According to my surmises, +an active pack and troubled seas could not be far away. The water-sky +widened, but became less sharply defined. + +We laboriously picked a way among hummocks and pressure lines which +seemed impossible from a distance. Our dogs panted with the strain; my +limbs ached. In a few hours we arrived at the summit of an unusual +uplift of ice blocks. Looking ahead, my heart pained as if in the grip +of an iron hand. My hopes sank within me. Twisting snake-like between +the white field, and separating the packs, was a tremendous cut several +miles wide, which seemed at the time to bar all further progress. It was +the Big Lead, that great river separating the land-adhering ice from the +vast grinding fields of the central pack beyond, at which many heroic +men before me had stopped. I felt the dismay and heartsickness of all of +them within me now. The wind, blowing with a vengeful wickedness, +laughed sardonically in my ears. + +Of course we had our folding canvas boat on the sleds. But in this +temperature of 48° below zero I knew no craft could be lowered into +water without fatal results. All of the ice about was firmly cemented +together, and over it we made our way toward the edge of the water line. + +Passing through pressure lines, over smaller and more troublesome +fields, we reached the shores of the Big Lead. We had, by two +encouraging marches, covered fifty miles. The first hundred miles of our +journey on the Polar pack had been covered. The Pole was four hundred +miles beyond! + +Camp was pitched on a secure old ice field. Cutting through huge ice +cliffs, the dark crack seemed like a long river winding between +palisades of blue crystal. A thin sheet of ice had already spread over +the mysterious deep. On its ebony mirrored surface a profusion of +fantastic frost crystals arranged themselves in bunches resembling white +and saffron-colored flowers. + +Through the apertures of this young ice dark vapors rose like steam +through a screen of porous fabrics and fell in feathers of snow along +the sparkling shores. After partaking of a boulder of pemmican, +E-tuk-i-shook went east and I west to examine the lead of water for a +safe crossing. There were several narrow places, while here and there +floes which had been adrift in the lead were now fixed by young ice. +Ah-we-lah remained behind to make our snowhouse comfortable. + +For a long time this huge separation in the pack had been a mystery to +me. At first sight there seemed to be no good reason for its existence. +Peary had found a similar break north of Robeson Channel. It was likely +that what we saw was an extension of the same, following at a distance +the general trend of the northernmost land extension. + +This is precisely what one finds on a smaller scale when two ice packs +come together. Here the pack of the central polar sea meets the +land-adhering ice. The movement of the land pack is intermittent and +usually along the coast. The shallows, grounded ice and projecting +points interfere with a steady drift. The movement of the central pack +is quite constant, in almost every direction, the tides, currents and +winds each giving momentum to the floating mass. The lead is thus the +breaking line between the two bodies of ice. It widens as the pack +separates, and narrows or widens with an easterly or westerly drift, +according to the pressure of the central pack. Early in the season, when +the pack is crevassed and not elastic, it is probably wide; later, as +the entire sea of ice becomes active, it may disappear or shift to a +line nearer the land. + +In low temperature new ice forms rapidly. This offers an obstruction to +the drift of the old ice. As the heavy central pack is pressed against +the unyielding land pack the small ice is ground to splinters, and even +heavy floes are crushed. This reduced mass of small ice is pasted and +cemented along the shores of the Big Lead, leaving a broad band of +troublesome surface as a serious barrier to sled travel. It seems quite +probable that this lead, or a condition similar to it, extends entirely +around the Polar sea as a buffer between the land and the middle pack. + +In exploring the shore line, a partially bridged place was found about a +mile from camp, but the young ice was too elastic for a safe track. The +temperature, however, fell rapidly with the setting sun, and the wind +was just strong enough to sweep off the heated vapors. I knew better +atmospheric condition could not be afforded quickly to thicken the young +ice. + +Returning to camp that night, we surprised our stomachs by a little +frozen musk ox tenderloin and tallow, the greatest delicacy in our +possession. Then we retired. Ice was our pillow. Ice was our bed. A dome +of snow above us held off the descending liquid air of frost. Outside +the wind moaned. Shudderingly, the deep howl of the dogs rolled over the +ice. Lying on the sheeted deep, beneath my ears I heard the noise of the +moving, grinding, crashing pack. It sounded terrifyingly like a distant +thunder of guns. I could not sleep. Sick anxiety filled me. Could we +cross the dreadful river on the morrow? Would the ice freeze? Or might +the black space not hopelessly widen during the night? I lay awake, +shivering with cold. I felt within me the blank loneliness of the +thousands of desolate miles about me. + +One hundred miles of the unknown had been covered; five hundred miles of +the journey from our winter camp were behind us. Beyond, to the goal, +lay four hundred unknown miles. Nothing dearly desired of man ever +seemed so far away. + +[Illustration: ESKIMO TORCH] + + + + +CROSSING MOVING SEAS OF ICE + +CROSSING THE LEAD--THE THIN ICE HEAVES LIKE A SHEET OF RUBBER--CREEPING +FORWARD CAUTIOUSLY, THE TWO DANGEROUS MILES ARE COVERED--BOUNDING +PROGRESS MADE OVER IMPROVING ICE--THE FIRST HURRICANE--DOGS BURIED AND +FROZEN INTO MASSES IN DRIFTS OF SNOW--THE ICE PARTS THROUGH THE +IGLOO--WAKING TO FIND ONE'S SELF FALLING INTO THE COLD SEA. + +XV + +THE FIRST STEPS OVER THE GRINDING CENTRAL PACK + + +Ill at ease and shivering, we rose from our crystal berths on March 23 +and peeped out of a pole-punched porthole. A feeble glow of mystic color +came from everywhere at once. Outside, toward a sky of dull purple, +columns of steam-like vapor rose from open ice water, resembling vapors +from huge boiling cauldrons. We sank with chattering teeth to our +cheerless beds and quivered with the ghostly unreality of this great +vibrating unknown. + +Long before the suppressed incandescent night changed to the prism +sparkle of day we were out seeking a way over the miles of insecure +young ice separating us from the central pack. On our snowshoes, with an +easy tread, spread feet and with long life lines tied to each other, we +ventured to the opposite shores of that dangerous spread of young ice. +Beyond, the central pack glittered in moving lines and color, like +quicksilver shot with rainbow hues. + +The Big Lead was mottled and tawny colored, like the skin of a great +constrictor. As we stood and looked over its broad expanse to the solid +floes, two miles off, there came premonitions to me of impending danger. +Would the ice bear us? If it broke, and the life line was not quickly +jerked, our fate would almost certainly be sure death. Sontag, the +astronomer of Dr. Hay's Expedition, thus lost his life. Many others have +in like manner gone to the bottomless deep. On two occasions during the +previous winter I had thus gone through, but the life line had saved me. +What would be our fate here? But, whatever the luck, we must cross. I +knew delay was fatal, for at any time a very light wind or a change in +the drift might break the new ice and delay us long enough to set the +doom of failure upon our entire venture. + +Every precaution was taken to safeguard our lives. The most important +problem was to distribute the weight so that all of it would not be +brought to bear on a small area. We separated our dog teams from the +sleds, holding to long lines which were fastened about our bodies and +also to the sleds. The sleds were hitched to each other by another long +line. + +With bated breath and my heart thumping, I advanced at the end of a long +line which was attached to the first sled, and picked my way through the +crushed and difficult ice along shore. With the life-saving line +fastened to each one of us, we were insured against possible dangers as +well as forethought could provide. Running from sled to sled, from dog +to dog, and man to man, it would afford a pulling chance for life should +anyone break through the ice. It seemed unlikely that the ice along the +entire chain would break at once, but its cracking under the step of one +of us seemed probable. + +I knew, as I gently placed my foot upon the thin yellowish surface, that +at any moment I might sink into an icy grave. Yet a spirit of bravado +thrilled my heart. I felt the grip of danger, and also that thrill of +exultation which accompanies its terror. + +Gently testing the ice before me with the end of my axe, with spread +legs, on snowshoes, with long, sliding steps, I slowly advanced. + +A dangerous cracking sound pealed in every direction under my feet. The +Eskimos followed. With every tread the thin sheet ice perceptibly sank +under me, and waved, in small billows, like a sheet of rubber. + +Stealthily, as though we were trying to filch some victory, we crept +forward. We rocked on the heaving ice as a boat on waves of water. Now +and then we stepped upon sheets of thicker ice, and hastily went forward +with secure footing. None of us spoke during the dangerous crossing. I +heard distinctly the panting of the dogs and the patter of their feet. +We covered the two miles safely, yet our snail-like progress seemed to +cover many anxious years. + +I cannot describe the exultation which filled me when the crossing was +accomplished. It seemed as though my goal itself were stretching toward +me. I experienced a sense of unbounded victory. I could have cheered +with joy. Intoxicated with it, I and my companions leaped forward, new +cheer quickening our steps. The dangers to come seemed less formidable +now, and as we journeyed onward it was the mastering of these, as did +our accomplishment in crossing the Big Lead, which gave us a daily +incentive to continue our way and ever to apply brain and muscle to the +subduing of even greater difficulties with zest. + +It was in doing this that the real thrill, the real victory--the only +thrill and victory, indeed--of reaching the North Pole lay. The +attaining of this mythical spot did not then, and does not now, seem in +itself to mean anything; I did not then, and do not now, consider it the +treasure-house of any great scientific secrets. The only thing to be +gained from reaching the Pole, the triumph of it, the lesson in the +accomplishment, is that man, by brain power and muscle energy, can +subdue the most terrific forces of a blind nature if he is determined +enough, courageous enough, and undauntedly persistent despite failure. + +On my journey northward I felt the ever constant presence of those who +had died in trying to reach the goal before me. There were times when I +felt a startling nearness to them--a sense like that one has of the +proximity of living beings in an adjoining room. I felt the goad of +their hopes within me; I felt the steps of their dead feet whenever my +feet touched the ice. I felt their unfailing determination revive me +when I was tempted to turn back in the days of inhuman suffering that +were to come. I felt that I, the last man to essay this goal, must for +them justify humanity; that I must crown three centuries of human effort +with success. + +With the perilous Big Lead behind us, a bounding course was set to +reach the eighty-fifth parallel on the ninety-seventh meridian. What +little movement was noted on the ice had been easterly. To allow for +this drift we aimed to keep a line slightly west of the Pole. + +We bounded northward joyously. Under our speeding feet the ice +reverberated and rumbled with the echo of far-away splitting and +crashing. + +The sun sank into a haze like mother-of-pearl. Our pathway glowed with +purple and orange. We paused only when the pale purple blue of night +darkened the pack. + +Starting forward in the afternoon of March 24, we crossed many small +floes with low-pressure lines separated by narrow belts of new ice. Our +speed increased. At times we could hardly keep pace with our dogs. The +temperature rose to forty-one below zero. The western sky cleared +slightly. Along the horizon remained misty appearances resembling land. +This low-lying fog continued during our entire second hundred miles over +the Polar basin. Under it we daily expected to see new land. + +But Nature did not satisfy our curiosity for a long time. Both Ah-we-lah +and E-tuk-i-shook were sure of a constant nearness to land. Because of +the native panic out of its reassuring sight, I encouraged this belief, +as I did concerning every other possible sign of land further northward. +I knew that only by encouraging a delusion of nearness to land could I +urge them ever farther in the face of the hardships that must inevitably +come. + +An altitude of the sun at noon on March 24 gave our position as latitude +83° 31´. The longitude was estimated at 96° 27´. The land clouds of +Grant Land were still visible. The low bank of mist in the west +occasionally brightened. For a while I believed this to be an indication +of Crocker Land. + +Until midday I took observations and endeavored to study the appearances +of land. Our dogs sniffed the air as if scenting game. After a diligent +search, one seal blow-hole was located, and later we saw an old bear +track. No algæ or other small life was detected in the water between the +ice crevices. At the Big Lead a few algæ had been gathered. But here the +sea seemed sterile. Signs of seal and bear, however, were encouraging to +us as possible future food supply. In returning, I calculated the season +would be more advanced, and it was possible that life might move +northward, thus permitting an extension of the time allowance of our +rations. + +Although the heat of the sun was barely felt, its rays began to pierce +our eyes with painful effects. Reflected from the spotless surface of +the storm-driven snows, the bright light could not long be endured +without some protection, even by the Eskimos. Now came the time to test +a simple expedient that had occurred to me at Annoatok. Amber-colored +goggles, darkened or smoked glasses and ordinary automobile goggles had +all been tried with indifferent results. They failed for one reason or +another, mostly because of an insufficient range of vision or because of +a faulty construction that made it impossible to proceed more than a few +minutes without removing the accumulated condensation within them. At +Annoatok I had made amber-colored goggles from the glass of my +photographic supplies. By adjusting them I soon found they were a +priceless discovery. They entirely eliminated one of the greatest +torments of Arctic travel. + +While effectually screening the active rays that would have injured the +eye, these amber glasses at the same time possessed the inestimable +advantage of not interfering with the range of vision. + +Relieved of the snow glare, the eye was better enabled to see distant +objects than through field glasses. It is frequently extremely difficult +to detect icy surface irregularities on cloudy days. The amber glass +dispelled this trouble perfectly, enabling the eye to search carefully +every nook and crevice through the vague incandescence which blinds the +observer in hazy weather. The glasses did not reduce the _quantity_ of +light, as do smoked glasses, but the _quality_; the actinic rays, which +do the greatest harm, were eliminated. We were not only relieved of the +pain and fatigue of eye strain, but the color imparted a touch of cheer +and warmth to our chilled blue horizon. The usual snow goggles add to +the ugly gray-blue of the frozen seas, which alone sends frosty waves +through the nervous fibers. + +So thoroughly delighted were we with these goggles that later we wore +them even in igloos while asleep, with the double object of screening +the strong light which passes through the eyelids and of keeping the +forehead warm. + +On our march in the early part of the afternoon of the 24th the weather +proved good. The ice, though newly crevassed, improved as we advanced. +The late start spread our day's work close to the chill of midnight. +When we started the wind blew kindly. With glad hearts we forged +forward without delays. On the ice I heard the soft patter of swift dog +feet and the dashing, cutting progress of the sleds. As a scene viewed +from a carousel, the field of ice swept around me in our dizzy, twisting +progress. We swept resistlessly onward for twenty-three miles. As we had +taken a zigzag course to follow smooth ice, I therefore recorded only +eighteen miles to our credit. + +The night was beautiful. The sun sank into a purple haze. Soon, in the +magic of the atmosphere, appeared three suns of prismatic colors. These +settled slowly into the frozen sea and disappeared behind that +persistent haze of obscuring mist which always rests over the pack when +the sun is low. During the night a narrow band of orange was flung like +a ribbon across the northern skies. The pack surface glowed with varying +shades of violet, lilac and pale purplish blue. Many such splendid +sights are to be constantly seen in the Arctic. Although I reveled in it +now, the time was soon to come when weariness and hunger numbed my +faculties into a dreary torpor in which the splendor was not seen. + +Signs appeared of a gale from the west before we were quite ready to +camp. Little sooty clouds with ragged edges suddenly began to cover the +sky, scurrying at an alarming pace. Beyond us a huge smoky volume of +cloud blackened the pearly glitter. + +Suitable camping ice was sought. In the course of an hour we built an +igloo. We made the structure stronger than usual on account of the +threatening storm. We constructed double tiers of snow blocks to the +windward. A little water was thrown over the top to cement the blocks. +We fastened the dogs to the lee of hummocks. The sleds were securely +lashed and fastened to the ice. + +We expected a hurricane, and had not to wait to taste its fury. Before +we were at rest in our bags the wind lashed the snows with a force +inconceivable. With rushing drift, the air thickened. Dogs and sleds in +a few minutes were buried under banks of snow and great drifts encircled +the igloo. The cemented blocks of our dome withstood the sweep of the +blast well. Yet, now and then, small holes were burrowed through the +snow wall by the sharp wind. Drift entered and covered us. I lay awake +for hours. I felt the terrible oppression of that raging, life-sucking +vampire force sweeping over the desolate world. Disembodied things--the +souls of those, perhaps, who had perished here--seemed frenziedly +calling me in the wind. I felt under me the surge of the sweeping, awful +sea. I felt the desolation of this stormy world within my shuddering +soul; but, withal, I throbbed with a determination to assert the +supremacy of living man over these blind, insensate forces; to prove +that the living brain and palpitating muscle of a finite though +conscious creature could vanquish a hostile Nature which creates to +kill. I burned to justify those who had died here; to fulfill by proxy +their hopes; to set their calling souls at rest. The storm waked in me +an angry, challenging determination. + +Early in the morning of the 25th the storm ceased as suddenly as it had +come. A stillness followed which was appalling. It seemed as if the +storm had heard my thoughts and paused to contemplate some more dreadful +onslaught. The dogs began to howl desperately, as if attacked by a +bear. We rushed out of our igloo, seeking guns. There was no approaching +creature. It was, however, a signal of serious distress that we had +heard. The dogs were in acute misery. The storm-driven snows had buried +and bound them in unyielding ice. They had partly uncovered themselves. +United by trace and harness, they were imprisoned in frozen masses. Few +of them could even rise and stretch. They were in severe torment. + +We hurriedly freed their traces and beat the cemented snows from their +furs with sticks. Released, they leaped about gladly, their cries, +curling tails and pointed noses telling of gratitude. While we danced +about, stretching our limbs and rubbing our hands to get up circulation, +the sun rose over the northern blue, flushing the newly driven snows +with warm tones. The temperature during the storm had risen to only 26° +below, but soon the thermometer sank rapidly below 40°. The west was +still smoky and the weather did not seem quite settled. As it was still +too early to start, we again slipped into the bags and sought quiet +slumber. + +As yet the dreadful insomnia which was to rob me of rest on my journey +had not come, and I slept with the blissful soundness of a child. I must +have been asleep several hours, when, of a sudden, I opened my eyes. + +Terror gripped my heart. Loud explosive noises reverberated under my +head. It seemed as though bombs were torn asunder in the depths of the +cold sea beneath me. I lay still, wondering if I were dreaming. The +sounds echoingly died away. Looking about the igloo, I detected nothing +unusual. I saw Ah-we-lah and E-tuk-i-shook staring at me with wide-open +frightened eyes. I arose and peeped through the eye port. The fields of +ice without reflected the warm light of the rising sun in running waves +of tawny color. The ice was undisturbed. An unearthly quiet prevailed. +Concluding that the ice was merely cracking under the sudden change of +temperature, in quite the usual harmless manner, I turned over again, +reassuring my companions, and promptly fell asleep. + +Out of the blankness of sleep I suddenly wakened again. Half-dazed, I +heard beneath me a series of echoing, thundering noises. I felt the ice +floor on which I lay quivering. I experienced the sudden giddiness one +feels on a tossing ship at sea. In the flash of a second I saw Ah-we-lah +leap to his feet. In the same dizzy instant I saw the dome of the +snowhouse open above me; I caught a vision of the gold-streaked sky. My +instinct at the moment was to leap. I think I tried to rise, when +suddenly everything seemed lifted from under me; I experienced the +suffocating sense of falling, and next, with a spasm of indescribable +horror, felt about my body a terrific tightening pressure like that of a +chilled and closing shell of steel, driving the life and breath from me. + +In an instant it was clear what had happened. A crevasse had suddenly +opened through our igloo, directly under the spot whereon I slept; and +I, a helpless creature in a sleeping bag, with tumbling snow blocks and +ice and snow crashing about and crushing me, with the temperature 48° +below zero, was floundering in the opening sea! + + + + +LAND DISCOVERED + +FIGHTING PROGRESS THROUGH CUTTING COLD AND TERRIFIC STORMS--LIFE BECOMES +A MONOTONOUS ROUTINE OF HARDSHIP--THE POLE INSPIRES WITH ITS RESISTLESS +LURE--NEW LAND DISCOVERED BEYOND THE EIGHTY-FOURTH PARALLEL--MORE THAN +TWO HUNDRED MILES FROM SVARTEVOEG--THE FIRST SIX HUNDRED MILES COVERED + +XVI + +THREE HUNDRED MILES TO THE APEX OF THE WORLD + + +I think I was about to swoon when I felt hands beneath my armpits and +heard laughter in my ears. With an adroitness such as only these natives +possess, my two companions were dragging me from the water. And while I +lay panting on the ice, recovering from my fright, I saw them +expeditiously rescue our possessions. + +It seemed that all this happened so quickly that I had really been in +the water only a few moments. My two companions saw the humor of the +episode and laughed heartily. Although I had been in the water only a +brief time, a sheet of ice surrounded my sleeping bag. Fortunately, +however, the reindeer skin was found to be quite dry when the ice was +beaten off. The experience, while momentarily terrifying, was +instructive, for it taught us the danger of spreading ice, especially +in calms following storms. + +Gratitude filled my heart. I fully realized how narrow had been the +escape of all of us. Had we slept a few seconds longer we should all +have disappeared in the opening crevasse. The hungry Northland would +again have claimed its human sacrifice. + +The ice about was much disturbed. Numerous black lines of water opened +on every side; from these oozed jets of frosty, smoke-colored vapor. The +difference between the temperature of the sea and that of the air was +76°. With this contrast, the open spots of ice-water appeared to be +boiling. + +Anxious to move along, away from the troubled angle of ice, our usual +breakfast was simplified. Melting some snow, we drank the icy liquid as +an eye-opener, and began our ration of a half-pound boulder of pemmican. +But with cold fingers, blue lips and no possible shelter, the stuff was +unusually hard. To warm up, we prepared the sleds. Under our lashes the +dogs jumped into harness with a bound. The pemmican, which we really +found too hard to eat, had to be first broken into pieces with an axe. +We ground it slowly with our molars as we trudged along. Our teeth +chattered while the stomach was thus being fired with durable fuel. + +As we advanced the ice improved to some extent. With a little search +safe crossings were found over new crevices. A strong westerly wind blew +piercingly cold. + +Good progress was made, but we did not forget at any time that we were +invading the forbidden domains of a new polar environment. + +Henceforth, one day was to be much like another. Beyond the +eighty-third parallel life is devoid of any pleasure. The intense +objective impressions of cold and hunger assailing the body rob even the +mind of inspiration and exhilaration. Even the best day of sun and +gentle wind offers no balm. + +One awakes realizing the wind has abated and sees the cheerless sun +veering about the side of the ice shelter. One kicks the victim upon +whom, that morning, duty has fixed the misfortune to be up first--for we +tried to be equals in sharing the burdens of life. And upon him to whose +lot falls this hardship there is a loss of two hours' repose. He chops +ice, fills the kettles, lights the fire, and probably freezes his +fingers in doing so. Then he wiggles back into his bag, warms his icy +hands on the bare skin of his own stomach; or, if he is in a two-man +bag, and the other fellow is awake, Arctic courtesy permits the icy +hands on the stomach of his bedfellow. + +In due time the blood runs to the hand and he sets about tidying up the +camp. First, the hood of his own bag. It is loaded with icicles and +frost, the result of the freezing of his breath while asleep. He brushes +off the ice and snow. The ice has settled in the kettles in the +meantime. More ice must be chopped and put into the kettle. The chances +are that he now breaks a commandment and steals what to us is a great +luxury--a long drink of water to ease his parched throat. Because of the +need of fuel economy, limit is placed on drinks. + +Then the fire needs attention; the flame is imperfect and the gas hole +needs cleaning. He thoughtlessly grips the little bit of metal to the +end of which the priming needle is attached. That metal is so cold that +it burns, and he leaves a piece of his skin on it. Then the breakfast +ration of pemmican must be divided. It is not frozen, for it contains no +water. But it is hard. The stuff looks like granite. Heat would melt +it--but there is no fuel to spare. The two slumberers are given a thump, +and their eyes open to the stone-like pemmican. Between yawns the teeth +are set to grind the pemmican. The water boils, the tea is tossed in it +and the kettle is removed. + +We rise on elbows, still in the bags, to enjoy the one heavenly treat of +our lives, the cup of tea which warms the hand and the stomach at once. + +Then we dress. It is remarkable how cold compels speed in dressing. + +The door of the snowhouse is now kicked out--all tumble about to warm up +and stop chattering teeth. Breaking camp is a matter of but a minute, +for things fall almost automatically into convenient packs. The sledges +are loaded and lashed in a few minutes. Then the teams are gathered to +the pulling lines, and off we go with a run. The pace for dog and man is +two and a half miles an hour, over good ice or bad ice, hard snow or +soft snow, or tumbling over neckbreaking irregularities. There is no +stop for lunch, no riding, or rest, or anything else. It is +drive--drive. + +At times it was impossible to perspire, and the toxin of fatigue, +generating unearthly weariness, filled the brain with fag. When +perspiration oozed from our pores, as we forced forward, step by step, +it froze in the garments and the warmer portions of our bodies were +ringed with snow. Daily, unremittingly, this was our agony. + +In starting before the end of the winter night, and camping on the open +ice fields in the long northward march, we had first accustomed our eyes +to frigid darkness and then to a perpetual glitter. This proved to be +the coldest season of the year, and we ought to have been hardened to +all kinds of Arctic torment. But man gains that advantage only when his +pulse ceases to beat. + +Continuing the steady stride of forward marches, far from land, far from +life, there was nothing to arouse a warming spirit. Along the land there +had been calms and gales and an inspiring contrast, even in the dark +days and nights, but here the frigid world was felt at its worst. The +wind, which came persistently from the west--now strong, now feeble, but +always sharp--inflicted a pain to which we never became accustomed. + +The worst torture inflicted by the wind and humid air of an Arctic pack +came from a mask of ice about the face. It was absurdly picturesque but +painful. Every bit of exhaled moisture condensed and froze either to the +facial hair or to the line of fox tails about the hood. It made comical +caricatures of us. + +Frequent turns in our course exposed both sides of the face to the wind +and covered with icicles every hair offering a convenient nucleus. These +lines of crystal made an amazing dash of light and color as we looked at +each other. But they did not afford much amusement to the individual +exhibiting them. Such hairs as had not been pulled from the lips and +chin were first weighted, and then the wind carried the breath to the +long hair with which we protected our heads, and left a mass of dangling +frost. Accumulated moisture from the eyes coated the eyelashes and +brows. The humidity escaping about the forehead left a crescent of snow +above, while that escaping under the chin, combined with falling breath, +formed there a semi-circle of ice. The most uncomfortable icicles, +however, were those that formed on the coarse hair within the nostrils. +To keep the face free, the Eskimos pull the facial hair out by the +roots, the result of which is a rarity of mustaches and beards. Thus, +with low temperature and persistent winds, life was one of constant +torture on the march; but cooped in snowhouses, eating dried beef and +tallow, and drinking hot tea, some animal comforts were occasionally to +be gained in the icy camps. + +[Illustration: BRADLEY LAND DISCOVERED + +SUBMERGED ISLAND OF POLAR SEA + +GOING BEYOND THE BOUNDS OF LIFE] + +[Illustration: SWIFT PROGRESS OVER SMOOTH ICE + +BUILDING AN IGLOO + +A LIFELESS WORLD OF COLD AND ICE] + +We forced the dogs onward during two days of cheery bluster, with +encouraging results. At times we ran before the teams, calling and +urging the brutes to leaping progress. On the evening of March 26, with +a pedometer and other methods of dead reckoning for position, we found +ourselves at latitude 84° 24´, longitude 96° 53´. + +The western horizon remained persistently dark. A storm was gathering, +and slowly moving eastward. Late in the evening we prepared for the +anticipated blast. We built an igloo stronger than usual, hoping that +the horizon would be cleared with a brisk wind by the morrow and afford +us a day of rest. The long, steady marches, without time for +recuperation, necessarily dampened our enthusiasm for a brief period of +physical depression, which, however, was of short duration. + +Daily we had learned to appreciate more and more the joy of the sleeping +bag. It was the only animal comfort which afforded a relief to our life +of frigid hardship, and often with the thought of it we tried to force +upon the weary body in the long marches a pleasing anticipation. + +In the evening, after blocks of snow walled a dome in which we could +breathe quiet air, the blue-flame lamp sang notes of gastronomic +delights. We first indulged in a heaven-given drink of ice-water to +quench the intense thirst which comes after hours of exertion and +perspiration. Then the process of undressing began, one at a time, for +there was not room enough in the igloo for all to undress at once. + +The fur-stuffed boots were pulled off and the bearskin pants were +stripped. Then half of the body was quickly pushed into the bag. A brick +of pemmican was next taken out and the teeth were set to grind on this +bone-like substance. Our appetites were always keen, but a half pound of +cold withered beef and tallow changes a hungry man's thoughts +effectually. + +The tea, an hour in making, was always welcome, and we rose on elbows to +take it. Under the influence of the warm drink, the fur coat with its +mask of ice was removed. Next the shirt, with its ring of ice about the +waist, would come off, giving the last sense of shivering. Pushing the +body farther into the bag, the hood was pulled over the face, and we +were lost to the world of ice. + +The warm sense of mental and physical pleasure which follows is an +interesting study. The movement of others, the sting of the air, the +noise of torturing winds, the blinding rays of a heatless sun, the pains +of driving snows and all the bitter elements are absent. One's mind, +freed of anxiety and suffering, wanders to home and better times under +these peculiar circumstances; there comes a pleasurable sensation in +the touch of one's own warm skin, while the companionship of the arms +and legs, freed from their cumbersome furs, makes a new discovery in the +art of getting next to one's self. + +Early on March 27, a half gale was blowing, but at noon the wind ceased. +The bright sun and rising temperature were too tempting to let us remain +quiescent. Although the west was still dark with threatening clouds we +hitched the dogs to the sleds. We braced ourselves. "Huk! Huk!" we +called, and bounded away among the wind-swept hummocks. The crevices of +the ice wound like writhing snakes as we raced on. We had not gone many +miles before the first rush of the storm struck us. Throwing ourselves +over the sleds, we waited the passing of the icy blast. No suitable snow +with which to begin the erection of a shelter was near. A few miles +northward, as we saw, was a promising area for a camp. This we hoped to +reach after a few moments' rest. The squall soon spent its force. In the +wind which followed good progress was made without suffering severely. +The temperature was 41° below zero, Fahrenheit, and the barometer 29.05. + +Once in moving order, the drivers required very little encouragement to +prolong the effort to a fair day's march despite the weather. As the sun +settled in the western gloom the wind increased in fury and forced us to +camp. Before the igloo was finished a steady, rasping wind brushed the +hummocks and piled the snow in large dunes about us, like the sand of +home shores. + +The snowhouse was not cemented as usual with water, as was our custom +when weather permitted. The tone of the wind did not seem to indicate +danger, and furthermore, there was no open sea water near. Because of +the need of fuel economy we did not deem it prudent to use oil for fire +to melt snow, excepting for water to quench thirst. + +Not particularly anxious about the outcome of the storm, and with senses +blunted by overwork and benumbed with cold, we sought the comfort of the +bags. Awakened in the course of a few hours by drifts of snow about our +feet, I noted that the wind had burrowed holes at weak spots through the +snow wall. We were bound, however, not to be cheated of a few hours' +sleep, and with one eye open we turned over. I was awakened by falling +snow blocks soon after. + +Forcing my head out of my ice-encased fur hood, I saw the sky, +cloud-swept and grey. The dome of the igloo had been swept away. We were +being quickly buried under a dangerous weight of snow. In some way I had +tossed about sufficiently during sleep to keep on top of the +accumulating drift, but my companions were nowhere to be seen. About me +for miles the white spaces were vacant. With dread in my heart I uttered +a loud call, but there came no response. + +A short frenzied search revealed a blowhole in the snow. In response to +another call, as from some subterranean place came muffled Eskimo +shouts. Tearing and burrowing at the fallen snow blocks I made violent +efforts to free them, buried as they were in their bags. But to my +dismay the soft snow settled on them tighter with each tussle. + +I was surprised, a few moments later, as I was working to keep their +breathing place open, to feel them burrowing through the snow. They had +entered their bags without undressing. Half clothed in shirt and pants, +but with bare feet, they writhed and wriggled through the bags and up +through the breathing hole. + +After a little digging their boots were uncovered, and then, with +protected feet, the bag was freed and placed at the side of the igloo. + +Into it the boys crept, fully dressed, with the exception of coats. I +rolled out beside them in my bag. We lay in the open sweep of furious +wind, impotent to move, for twenty-nine hours. Only then the frigid +blast eased enough to enable us to creep out into the open. The air came +in hissing spouts, like jets of steam from an engine. + +Soon after noon of March 29 the air brightened. It became possible to +breathe without being choked with floating crystals, and as the ice +about our facial furs was broken, a little blue patch was detected in +the west. We now freed the dogs of their snow entanglement and fed them. +A shelter was made in which to melt snow and brew tea. We ate a double +ration. + +Hitching the dogs we raced off. The monotonous fields of snow swept +under us. Soon the sun burst through separating clouds and upraised icy +spires before us. The wind died away. A crystal glory transfigured the +storm-swept fields. We seemed traveling over fields of diamonds, +scintillant as white fire, which shimmered dazzlingly about us. It is +curious to observe an intense fiery glitter and glow, as in the North, +which gives absolutely no impression of warmth. Fire here seems cold. +With full stomachs, fair weather and a much needed rest, we moved with +renewed inspiration. The dogs ran with tails erect, ears pricked. I and +my companions ran behind with the joy of contestants in a race. Indeed, +we felt refreshed as one does after a cold bath. + +Considerable time and distance, however, were lost in seeking a workable +line of travel about obstructions and making detours. Camping at +midnight, we had made only nine miles by a day's effort. The conditions +under which this second hundred miles were forced, proved to be in every +respect the most exciting of the run of five hundred miles over the +Polar sea. The mere human satisfaction of overcoming difficulties was a +daily incentive to surmount obstacles and meet baffling problems. The +weather was unsettled. Sudden storms broke with spasmodic force, the +barometer was unsteady and the temperature ranged from 20° below zero to +60° below zero. The ice showed signs of recent agitation. + +New leads and recent sheets of new ice combined with deep snow made +travel difficult. Persistently onward, pausing at times, we would urge +the dogs to the limit. One dog after another went into the stomachs of +the hungry survivors. Camps were now swept by storms. The ice opened out +under our bodies, shelter was often a mere hole in the snow bank. Each +of us carried painful wounds, frost bites; and the ever chronic +emptiness of half filled stomachs brought a gastric call for food, +impossible to supply. Hard work and strong winds sent unquenched thirst +tortures to burning throats, and the gloom of ever clouded skies sent +despair to its lowest reaches. + +But there was no monotony; our tortures came from different angles, and +from so many sources, that we were ever aroused to a fighting spirit. +With a push at the sled or a pull at the line we helped the wind-teased +dogs to face the nose cutting drift that swept the pack mile after mile. +Day after day we plunged farther and farther along into the icy despair +and stormy bluster. + +Throughout the entire advance northward I found there was some advantage +in my Eskimo companions having some slight comprehension of the meaning +of my aim. Doubtless through information and ideas that had sifted from +explorers to Eskimos for many generations past, the aborigines had come +to understand that there is a point at the top of the globe, which is +somehow the very top of the world, and that at this summit there is +something which white men have long been anxious to find--a something +which the Eskimo describe as the "big nail." The feeling that they were +setting out with me in the hope of being the first to find this "big +nail"--for, of course, I had told them of the possibility--helped to +keep up the interest and courage of my two companions during long days +of hardship. + +Naturally enough, I could not expect their interest in the Pole itself +to be great. Their promised reward for accompanying me, a gun and knife +for each, maintained a lively interest in them. After a ceaseless +warfare lasting seven days, on March 30 the eastern sky broke in lines +of cheering blue. Whipped by low winds the clouds broke and scurried. + +Soon the western heavens, ever a blank mystery, cleared. Under it, to my +surprise, lay a new land. I think I felt a thrill such as Columbus must +have felt when the first green vision of America loomed before his eye. + +My promise to the good, trusty boys of nearness to land was unwittingly +on my part made good, and the delight of eyes opened to the earth's +northernmost rocks dispelled all the physical torture of the long run of +storms. As well as I could see, the land seemed an interrupted coast +extending parallel to the line of march for about fifty miles, far to +the west. It was snow covered, ice-sheeted and desolate. But it was real +land with all the sense of security solid earth can offer. To us that +meant much, for we had been adrift in a moving sea of ice, at the mercy +of tormenting winds. Now came, of course, the immediate impelling desire +to set foot upon it, but to do so I knew would have side-tracked us from +our direct journey to the Polar goal. In any case, delay was jeopardous, +and, moreover, our food supply did not permit our taking time to inspect +the new land.[13] + +This new land was never clearly seen. A low mist, seemingly from open +water, hid the shore line. We saw the upper slopes only occasionally +from our point of observation. There were two distinct land masses. The +most southern cape of the southern mass bore west by south, but still +further to the south there were vague indications of land. The most +northern cape of the same mass bore west by north. Above it there was a +distinct break for 15 or 20 miles, and beyond the northern mass extended +above the eighty-fifth parallel to the northwest. The entire coast was +at this time placed on our charts as having a shore line along the one +hundred and second meridian, approximately parallel to our line of +travel. At the time the indications suggested two distinct islands. +Nevertheless, we saw so little of the land that we could not determine +whether it consisted of islands or of a larger mainland. The lower coast +resembled Heiberg Island, with mountains and high valleys. The upper +coast I estimated as being about one thousand feet high, flat, and +covered with a thin sheet ice. Over the land I write "Bradley Land" in +honor of John R. Bradley, whose generous help had made possible the +important first stage of the expedition. The discovery of this land gave +an electric impetus of driving vigor at just the right moment to +counterbalance the effect of the preceding week of storm and trouble. + +Although I gazed longingly and curiously at the land, to me the Pole was +the pivot of ambition. My boys had not the same northward craze, but I +told them to reach the land on our return might be possible. We never +saw it again. This new land made a convenient mile-post, for from this +time on the days were counted to and from it. A good noon sight fixed +the point of observation to 84° 50´, longitude 95° 36´´. We had +forced beyond the second hundred miles from Svartevoeg. Before us +remained about three hundred more miles, to my alluring, mysterious +goal. + +[Illustration: ARCTIC FOX] + + + + +BEYOND THE RANGE OF LIFE + +WITH A NEW SPRING TO WEARY LEGS BRADLEY LAND IS LEFT BEHIND--FEELING THE +ACHING VASTNESS OF THE WORLD BEFORE MAN WAS MADE--CURIOUS GRIMACES OF +THE MIDNIGHT SUN--SUFFERINGS INCREASE--BY PERSISTENT AND LABORIOUS +PROGRESS ANOTHER HUNDRED MILES IS COVERED + +XVII + +TWO HUNDRED MILES FROM THE POLE + + +A curtain of mist was drawn over the new land in the afternoon of March +31, and, although we gazed westward longingly, we saw no more of it. Day +after day we now pushed onward in desperate northward efforts. Strong +winds and fractured, irregular ice, increased our difficulties. Although +progress was slow for several days we managed to gain a fair march +between storms during each twenty-four hours. During occasional spells +of icy stillness mirages spread screens of fantasy out for our +entertainment. Curious cliffs, odd-shaped mountains and inverted ice +walls were displayed in attractive colors. + +Discoveries of new land seemed often made. But with a clearing horizon +the deception was detected. + +The boys believed most of these signs to be indications of real land--a +belief I persistently encouraged, because it relieved them of the panic +of the terror of the unknown. + +On April 3, the barometer remained steady and the thermometer sank. The +weather became settled and fairly clear, the horizon was freed of its +smoky vapors, the pack assumed a more permanent aspect of glittering +color. At noon there was now a dazzling light, while at night the sun +kissed the frozen seas behind screens of mouse-colored cloud and haze. +At the same moment the upper skies flushed with the glow of color of the +coming double-days of joy. + +As we advanced north of Bradley Land the pack disturbance of +land-divided and land-jammed ice disappeared. The fields became larger +and less troublesome, the weather improved, the temperature ranged from +20° to 50° below zero, the barometer rose and remained steady, the day +sky cleared with increasing color, but a low haze blotted out much of +the night glory which attended the dip of the nocturnal sun. With dogs +barking and rushing before speeding sleds, we made swift progress. But +the steady drag and monotony of the never changing work and scene +reduced interest in life. + +The blankness of the mental desert which moved about us as we ran along +was appalling. Nothing changed materially. The horizon moved. Our +footing was seemingly a solid stable ice crust, which was, however, +constantly shifting eastward. All the world on which we traveled was in +motion. We moved, but we took our landscape with us. + +At the end of the day's march we were often too tired to build snow +houses, and in sheer exhaustion we bivouacked in the lee of hummocks. +Here the overworked body called for sleep, but my mind refused to close +the eyes. My boys had the advantage of sleep. I envied them. Anyone who +has suffered from insomnia may be able in a small degree to gauge my +condition when sleep became impossible. To reach the end of my journey +became the haunting, ever-present goading thought of my wakeful +existence. + +As I lay painfully trying to coax slumber, my mind worked like the +wheels of a machine. Dizzily the journey behind repeated itself; I again +crossed the Big Lead, again floundered in an ice-cold open sea. Dangers +of all sorts took form to harass me. Instead of sleep, a delirium of +anxiety and longing possessed me. + +Beyond the eighty-fourth parallel we had passed the bounds of visible +life. Lying wakeful in that barren world, with my companions asleep, I +felt what few men of cities, perhaps, ever feel--the tragic isolation of +the human soul--a thing which, dwelt upon, must mean madness. I think I +realized the aching vastness of the world after creation, before man was +made. + +For many days we had not seen a suggestion of animated nature. There +were no longer animal trails to indicate life; no breath spouts of seal +escaped from the frosted bosom of the sea. Not even the microscopic life +of the deep was longer detected under us. We were alone--alone in a +lifeless world. We had come to this blank space of the earth by slow but +progressive stages. Sailing from the bleak land of the fisher folk along +the out-posts of civilization, the complex luxury of metropolitan life +was lost. Beyond, in the half savage wilderness of Danish Greenland, we +partook of a new life of primitive simplicity. Still farther along, in +the Ultima Thule of the aborigines, we reverted to a prehistoric plane +of living. Advancing beyond the haunts of men, we reached the noonday +deadliness of a world without life. + +As we pushed beyond into the sterile wastes, with eager eyes we +constantly searched the dusky plains of frost, but there was no speck of +life to grace the purple run of death.[14] + +During these desolate marches, my legs working mechanically, my mind +with anguish sought some object upon which to fasten itself. My eyes +scrutinized the horizon. I saw, every day, every sleeping hour, hills of +ice, vast plains of ice, now a deadly white, now a dull gray, now a +misty purple, sometimes shot with gold or gleaming with lakes of +ultramarine, moving towards and by me, an ever-changing yet +ever-monotonous panorama which wearied me as does the shifting of +unchanging scenery seen from a train window. As I paced the weary +marches, I fortunately became unconscious of the painful movement of my +legs. Although I walked I had a sensation of being lifted involuntarily +onward. + +The sense of covering distance gave me a dull, pleasurable satisfaction. +Only some catastrophe, some sudden and overwhelming obstacle would have +aroused me to an intense mental emotion, to a passionate despair, to the +anguish of possible defeat. + +I was now becoming the unconscious instrument of my ambition; almost +without volition my body was being carried forward by a subconscious +force which had fastened itself upon a distant goal. Sometimes the +wagging of a dog's tail held my attention for long minutes; it afforded +a curious play for my morbidly obsessed imagination. In an hour I would +forget what I had been thinking. To-day I cannot remember the vague, +fanciful illusions about curiously insignificant things which occupied +my faculties in this dead world. The sun, however, did relieve the +monotony, and created in the death-chilled world skies filled with +elysian flowers and mirages of beauty undreamed of by Aladdin. + +My senses at the time, as I have said, were vaguely benumbed. While we +traveled I heard the sound of the moving sledges. Their sharp steel +runners cut the ice and divided the snow like a cleaving knife. I became +used to the first shudder of the rasping sound. In the dead lulls +between wind storms I would listen with curious attention to the soft +patter of our dogs' feet. At times I could hear their tiny toe nails +grasping at forward ice ridges in order to draw themselves forward, and, +strangely--so were all my thoughts interwoven with my ambition--this +clenching, crunching, gritty sound gave me a delighted sense of +progress, a sense of ever covering distance and nearing, ever nearing +the Pole. + +In this mid-Polar basin the ice does not readily separate. It is +probably in motion at all times of the year. In this readjustment of +fields following motion and expansion, open spaces of water appear. +These, during most months, are quickly sheeted with new ice. + +In these troubled areas I had frequent opportunities to measure +ice-thickness. From my observation I had come to the conclusion that ice +does not freeze to a depth of more than twelve or fifteen feet during a +single year. Occasionally we crossed fields fifty feet thick. These +invariably showed signs of many years of surface upbuilding. + +It is very difficult to estimate the amount of submerged freezing after +the first year's ice, but the very uniform thickness of Antarctic sea +ice suggests that a limit is reached the second year, when the ice, with +its cover of snow, is so thick that very little is added afterward from +below. + +Increase in size after that is probably the result mostly of addition to +the superstructure. Frequent falls of snow, combined with alternate +melting and freezing in summer, and a process similar to the upbuilding +of glacial ice, are mainly responsible for the growth in thickness of +the ice on the Polar sea. + +The very heavy, undulating fields, which give character to the mid-Polar +ice and escape along the east and west coasts of Greenland, are, +therefore, mostly augmented from the surface. + +Continuing north, at no time was the horizon perfectly clear. But the +weather was good enough to permit frequent nautical observations. Our +course was lined on uninteresting blank sheets. There were elusive signs +of land frequent enough to maintain an exploring enthusiasm, which +helped me also in satisfying my companions. For thus they were +encouraged to believe in a nearness to terrestrial solidity. At every +breathing spell, when we got together for a little chat, Ah-we-lah's +hand, with pointed finger, was directed to some spot on the horizon or +some low-lying cloud, with the shout of "_Noona?_" (land), to which I +always replied in the affirmative; but, for me, the field-glasses and +later positions dispelled the illusion. + +Man, under pressure of circumstances, will adapt himself to most +conditions of life. To me the other-world environment of the Polar-pack, +far from continental fastness, was beginning to seem quite natural. + +We forced marches day after day. We traveled until dogs languished or +legs failed. Ice hills rose and fell before us. Mirages grimaced at our +dashing teams with wondering faces. Daily the incidents and our position +were recorded, but our adventures were promptly forgotten in the mental +bleach of the next day's effort. + +Night was now as bright as day. By habit, we emerged from our igloos +later and later. On the 5th and 6th we waited until noon before +starting, to get observations; but, as was so often the case, when the +sun was watched, it slipped under clouds. This late start brought our +stopping time close to midnight, and infused an interest in the midnight +sun; but the persistent haze which clouded the horizon at night when the +sun was low denied us a glimpse of the midnight luminary. + +The night of April 7 was made notable by the swing of the sun at +midnight, above the usual obscuring mist, behind which it had, during +previous days, sunk with its night dip of splendor. For a number of +nights it made grim faces at us in its setting. A tantalizing mist, +drawn as a curtain over the northern sea at midnight, had afforded +curious advantages for celestial staging. We were unable to determine +sharply the advent of the midnight sun, but the colored cloud and haze +into which it nightly sank produced a spectacular play which interested +us immensely. + +Sometimes the great luminary was drawn out into an egg-shaped elongation +with horizontal lines of color drawn through it. I pictured it as some +splendid fire-colored lantern flung from the window of Heaven. Again, it +was pressed into a basin flaming with magical fires, burning behind a +mystic curtain of opalescent frosts. Blue at other times, it appeared +like a huge vase of luminous crystal, such as might be evoked by the +weird genii of the Orient, from which it required very little +imagination to see purple, violet, crimson and multi-colored flowers +springing beauteously into the sky. + +These changes took place quickly, as by magic. Usually the last display +was of distorted faces, some animal, some semi-human--huge, grotesque, +and curiously twitching countenances of clouds and fire. At times they +appallingly resembled the hideous teeth-gnashing deities of China, that, +with gnarled arms upraised, holding daggers of flame and surrounded by +smoke, were rising toward us from beyond the horizon. + +Sometimes in our northward progress these faces laughed, again they +scowled ominously. What the actual configurations were I do not know; I +suppose two men see nothing exactly alike in this topsy-turvy world. + +Rushing northward with forced haste, unreal beauties took form as if to +lure us to pause. Clouds of steam rising from frozen seas like geysers +assumed the aspects of huge fountains of iridescent fire. As the sun +rose, lines of light like quicksilver quivered and writhed about the +horizon, and in swirling, swimming circles closed and narrowed about us +on the increasingly color-burned but death-chilled areas of ice over +which we worked. Setting amid a dance of purple radiance, the sun, +however, instead of inspiring us, filled us with a sick feeling of +giddiness. What beauty there was in these spectacles was often lost upon +our benumbed senses. + +Nowhere in the world, perhaps, are seen such spectacles of celestial +glory. The play of light on clouds and ice produces the illusion of some +supernatural realm. + +We had now followed the sun's northward advance--from its first peep, at +midday, above the southern ice of the Polar gateway, to its sweep over +the northern ice at midnight. From the end of the Polar night, late in +February, to the first of the double days and the midnight suns, we had +forced a trail through darkness and blood-hardening temperature, and +over leg-breaking irregularities of an unknown world of ice, to a spot +almost exactly two hundred miles from the Pole! To this point our +destiny had been auspiciously protected. Ultimate success seemed within +grasp. But we were not blind to the long line of desperate effort still +required to push over the last distance. + +Now that we had the sun unmistakably at midnight, its new glory before +us was an incentive to onward efforts. Previous to this the sun had been +undoubtedly above the horizon, but, as is well known, when the sun is +low and the atmospheric humidity is high, as it always is over the pack, +a dense cloud of frost crystals rests on the ice and obscures the +horizon. During the previous days the sun sank into this frosty haze and +was lost for several hours. + +Observations on April 8[15] placed camp at latitude 86° 36´, longitude +94° 2´. Although we had made long marches and really great speed, we +had advanced only ninety-six miles in the nine days. Much of our hard +work had been lost in circuitous twists around troublesome pressure +lines and high, irregular fields of very old ice. The drift ice was +throwing us to the east with sufficient force to give us some anxiety, +but with eyes closed to danger and hardships, double days of fatigue and +double days of glitter quickly followed one another. + +Everything was now in our favor, but here we felt most of the +accumulating effect of long torture, in a world where every element of +Nature is hostile. Human endurance has distinct limits. Bodily abuse +will long be counterbalanced by man's superb recuperative power, but +sooner or later there comes a time when out-worn cells call a halt. + +We had lived for weeks on a steady diet of withered beef and tallow. +There was no change, we had no hot meat, and never more to eat than was +absolutely necessary to keep life within the body. We became indifferent +to the aching vacant pain of the stomach. Every organ had been whipped +to serve energy to the all important movement of our legs. The depletion +of energy, the lassitude of overstrained limbs, manifested themselves. +The Eskimos were lax in the swing of the whip and indifferent in urging +on the dogs. The dogs displayed the same spirit by lowered tails, limp +ears, and drooping noses, as their shoulders dragged the sleds farther, +ever farther from the land of life. + +A light life-sapping wind came from the west. We battled against it. We +swung our arms to fight it and maintain circulation, as a swimmer in +water. Veering a little at times, it always struck the face at a +piercing angle. It froze the tip of my nose so often that that feature +felt like a foreign bump on my face. Our cheeks had in like manner been +so often bleached in spots that the skin was covered with ugly scars. +Our eyes were often sealed by frozen eyelashes. The tear sack made +icicles. Every particle of breath froze as it left the nostrils, and +coated the face in a mask of ice. + +The sun at times flamed the clouds, while the snow glowed in burning +tones. In the presence of all this we suffered the chill of death. All +Nature exulted in a wave of hysteria. Delusions took form about us--in +mirages, in the clouds. We moved in a world of delusions. The heat of +the sun was a sham, its light a torment. A very curious world this, I +thought dumbly, as we pushed our sleds and lashed our lagging dogs. Our +footing was solid; there was no motion. Our horizon was lined with all +the topographic features of a solid land scene, with mountains, valleys +and plains, rivers of open water; but under it all there was the heaving +of a restless sea. Although nothing visibly moved, it was all in motion. +Seemingly a solid crust of earth, it imperceptibly drifts in response to +every wind. We moved with it, but ever took our landscape with us. + +Of the danger of this movement, of the possibility of its hopelessly +carrying us away from our goal, and the possibility of ultimate +starvation, I never lost consciousness. Although the distance may seem +slight, now that we had gone so far, the last two hundred miles seemed +hopelessly impossible. With aching, stiffened legs we started our +continuing marches without enthusiasm, with little ambition. But marches +we made--distance leaped at times under our swift running feet. + +It sometimes now seems that unknown and subtle forces of which we are +not cognizant supported me. I could almost believe that there were +unseen beings there, whose voices urged me in the wailing wind; who, in +my success, themselves sought soul peace, and who, that I might obtain +it, in some strange, mysterious way succored and buoyed me. + + + + +OVER POLAR SEAS OF MYSTERY + +THE MADDENING TORTURES OF A WORLD WHERE ICE WATER SEEMS HOT, AND COLD +KNIVES BURN ONE'S HANDS--ANGUISHED PROGRESS ON THE LAST STRETCH OF TWO +HUNDRED MILES OVER ANCHORED LAND ICE--DAYS OF SUFFERING AND GLOOM--THE +TIME OF DESPAIR--"IT IS WELL TO DIE," SAYS AH-WE-LAH; "BEYOND IS +IMPOSSIBLE." + +XVIII + +ONE HUNDRED MILES FROM THE POLE + + +We pushed onward. We cracked our whips to urge the tiring dogs. We +forced to quick steps weary leg after weary leg. Mile after mile of ice +rolled under our feet. The maddening influence of the shifting desert of +frost became almost unendurable in the daily routine. Under the lash of +duty interest was forced, while the merciless drive of extreme cold +urged physical action. Our despair was mental and physical--the result +of chronic overwork. + +Externally there was reason for rejoicing. The sky had cleared, the +weather improved, a liquid charm of color poured over the strange +other-world into which we advanced. Progress was good, but the soul +refused to open its eyes to beauty or color. All was a lifeless waste. +The mind, heretofore busy in directing arm and foot, to force a way +through miniature mountains of uplifted floes, was now, because of +better ice, relieved of that strain, but it refused to seek diversion. + +The normal run of hardship, although eased, now piled up the accumulated +poison of overwork, and when I now think of the terrible strain I fail +to see how a workable balance was maintained. + +As we passed the eighty-sixth parallel, the ice increased in breadth and +thickness. Great hummocks and pressure lines became less frequent. A +steady progress was gained with the most economical human drain +possible. The temperature ranged between 36° and 40° below zero, +Fahrenheit, with higher and lower midday and midnight extremes. Only +spirit thermometers were useful, for the mercury was at this degree of +frost either frozen or sluggish. + +Although the perpetual sun gave light and color to the cheerless waste +we were not impressed with any appreciable sense of warmth. Indeed, the +sunbeams by their contrast seemed to cause the frost of the air to +pierce with a more painful sting. In marching over the golden glitter, +snow scalded our faces, while our noses were bleached with frost. The +sun rose into zones of fire and set in burning fields of ice, but, in +pain, we breathed the chill of death. + +In camp a grip of the knife left painful burns from cold metal. To the +frozen fingers ice cold water was hot. With wine-spirits the fire was +lighted, while oil delighted the stomach. In our dreams Heaven was hot, +the other place was cold. All Nature was false; we seemed to be nearing +the chilled flame of a new Hades. + +We now changed our working hours from day to night, beginning usually at +ten o'clock and ending at seven. The big marches and prolonged hours of +travel with which fortune favored us earlier were no longer possible. +Weather conditions were more important in determining a day's run than +the hands of the chronometers. + +That I must steadily keep up my notes and the records of observations +was a serious addition to my daily task. I never permitted myself to be +careless in regard to this, for I never let myself forget the importance +of such data in plotting an accurate course. + +I kept my records in small notebooks, writing very fine with a hard +pencil on both sides of the paper. At the beginning of the journey I had +usually set down the day's record by candle light, but later, when the +sun was shining both day and night, I needed no light even inside the +walls of the igloo, for the sunlight shone strongly enough through the +walls of snow. Shining brilliantly at times, I utilized the opportunity +it afforded, every few marches, to measure our shadows. The daily change +marked our advance Poleward. + +When storms threatened, our start was delayed. In strong gales the march +was shortened. But in one way or another we usually found a few hours in +each turn of the dial during which a march could be forced between +winds. It mattered little whether we traveled night or day--all hours +and all days were alike to us--for we had no accustomed time to rest, no +Sundays, no holidays, no landmarks, or mile-posts to pass. + +To advance and expend the energy accumulated during one sleep at the +cost of one pound of pemmican was our sole aim in life. Day after day +our legs were driven onward. Constantly new but similar panoramas rolled +by us. + +Our observations on April 11, gave latitude 87° 20´, longitude 95° +19´. The pack disturbance of the new land was less and less noted as +we progressed in the northward movement. The fields became heavier, +larger and less crevassed. Fewer troublesome old floes and less crushed +new ice were encountered. With the improved conditions, the fire of a +racing spirit surged up for a brief spell. + +We had now passed the highest reaches of all our predecessors. The +inspiration of the Farthest North for a brief time thrilled me. The time +was at hand, however, to consider seriously the possible necessity of an +early return. + +Nearly half of the food allowance had been used. In the long marches +supplies had been more liberally consumed than anticipated. Now our dog +teams were much reduced in numbers. Because of the cruel law of the +survival of the fittest, the less useful dogs had gone into the stomachs +of their stronger companions. With the lessening of the number of dogs +had come at the same time a reduction of the weight of the sledge loads, +through the eating of the food. Now, owing to food limitations and the +advancing season, we could not prudently continue the onward march a +fortnight longer. + +We had dragged ourselves three hundred miles over the Polar sea in +twenty-four days. Including delays and detours, this gave an average of +nearly thirteen miles daily on an airline in our course. There remained +an unknown line of one hundred and sixty miles to the Pole. The same +average advance would take us to the Pole in thirteen days. There were +food and fuel enough to risk this adventure. With good luck the prize +seemed within our grasp. But a prolonged storm, a deep snowfall, or an +active ice-pack would mean failure. + +In new cracks I measured the thickness of the ice. I examined the water +for life. The technical details for the making and breaking of ice were +studied, and some attention was given to the altitude of uplifted and +submerged irregularities. Atmospheric, surface water and ice +temperatures were taken, the barometer was noted, the cloud formations, +weather conditions and ice drifts were tabulated. There was a continuous +routine of work, but like the effort of the foot in the daily drive, it +became more or less automatic. + +Running along over seemingly endless fields of ice, the physical +appearances now came under more careful scrutiny. I watched daily for +possible signs of failing in the strength of any of us, because a +serious disability would now mean a fatal termination. A disabled man +could neither continue nor return. Each new examination gave me renewed +confidence and was another reason to push human endurance to the limit +of straining every fibre and cell. + +As a matter of long experience I find life in this extreme North is +healthful so long as there is sufficient good food, so long as exertion +is not overdone. A weakling would easily be killed, but a strong man is +splendidly hardened and kept in perfect physical trim by sledging and +tramping in this germless air. But, as I have said, sufficient food and +not too much exertion are requisites to full safety, and in our case we +were working to the limit, with rations running low. Still, the men +responded superbly. + +Our tremendous exertion in forcing daily rushing marches, under +occasional bursts of burning sunbeams, provoked intense thirst. +Following the habit of the camel, we managed to take enough water before +starting to keep sufficient liquid in the stomach and veins for the +ensuing day's march. Yet it was painful to await the melting of ice at +camping time. + +In two sittings, evening and morning, each of us took an average of +three quarts of water daily. This included tea and also the luxury of +occasional soup. Water was about us everywhere in heaps, but before the +thirst could be quenched, several ounces of precious fuel, which had +been sledged for hundreds of miles, must be used. And yet, this water, +so expensive and so necessary to us, became the cause of our greatest +discomfort. It escaped through pores of the skin, saturated the boots, +formed a band of ice under the knee and a belt of frost about the waist, +while the face was nearly always encased in a mask of icicles from the +moist breath. We learned to take this torture philosophically. + +With our dogs bounding and tearing onward, from the eighty-seventh to +the eighty-eighth parallel we passed for two days over old ice without +pressure lines or hummocks. There was no discernible line of demarcation +to indicate separate fields, and it was quite impossible to determine +whether we were on land or sea ice. The barometer indicated no +perceptible elevation, but the ice had the hard, wavering surface of +glacial ice, with only superficial crevasses. The water obtained from +this was not salty. All of the upper surface of old hummock and high ice +of the Polar sea resolves into unsalted water. My nautical observations +did not seem to indicate a drift, but nevertheless my combined +tabulations do not warrant a positive assertion of either land or sea; I +am inclined, however, to put this down as ice on low or submerged land. + +The ice presented an increasingly cheering prospect. A plain of purple +and blue ran in easy undulations to the limits of vision without the +usual barriers of uplifted blocks. Over it a direct air-line course was +possible. Progress, however, was quite as difficult as over the +irregular pack. The snow was crusted with large crystals. An increased +friction reduced the sled speed, while the snow surface, too hard for +snowshoes, was also too weak to give a secure footing to the unprotected +boot. The loneliness, the monotony, the hardship of steady, unrelieved +travel were keenly felt. + +Day after day we pushed along at a steady pace over plains of frost and +through a mental desert. As the eye opened at the end of a period of +shivering slumber, the fire was lighted little by little, the stomach +was filled with liquids and solids, mostly cold--enough to last for the +day, for there could be no halt or waste of fuel for midday feeding. We +next got into harness, and, under the lash of duty, paced off the day's +pull; we worked until standing became impossible. + +As a man in a dream I marched, set camp, ate and tried to rest. I took +observations now without interest; under those conditions no man could +take an interest in mathematics. Eating became a hardship, for the +pemmican, tasteless and hard as metal, was cold. Our feet were numb--it +seemed fortunate they no longer even ached. + +The arduous task of building a snowhouse meant physical hardship. In +this the eyes, no longer able to wink, quickly closed. Soon the empty +stomach complained. Then the gastric wants were half served. With teeth +dropping to the spasm of cold and skins in an electric wave of shivers +to force animal heat, the boys fell to unconscious slumbers, but my lids +did not easily close. The anxiety to succeed, the eagerness to draw out +our food supply and the task of infusing courage into my savage helpers +kept the mind active while the underfed blood filled the legs with new +power. + +There was no pleasurable mental recreation to relieve us; there was +nothing to arouse the soul from its icy inclosure. To eat, to sleep, +endlessly to press one foot ahead of the other--that was all we could +do. We were like horses driven wearily in carts, but we had not their +advantages of an agreeable climate and a comfortable stable at night. +Daily our marches were much the same. Finishing our frigid meal, we +hitched the dogs and lashed the sleds. + +In the daily routine of our onward struggle, there was an inhuman strain +which neither words nor pictures could adequately describe. The +maddening influence of the sameness of Polar glitter, combined as it was +with bitter winds and extreme cold and overworked bodies, burned our +eyes and set our teeth to a chronic chattering. To me there was always +the inspiration of ultimate success. But for my young savage companions, +it was a torment almost beyond endurance. They were, however, brave and +faithful to the bitter end, seldom allowing hunger or weariness or +selfish ambition or fierce passions seriously to interfere with the +effort of the expedition. We suffered, but we covered distance. + +On the morning of April 13, the strain of agitating torment reached the +breaking point. For days there had been a steady cutting wind from the +west, which drove despair to its lowest reaches. The west again +blackened, to renew its soul-despairing blast. The frost-burn of sky +color changed to a depressing gray, streaked with black. The snow was +screened with ugly vapors. The path was absolutely cheerless. All this +was a dire premonition of storm and greater torture. + +No torment could be worse than that never-ceasing rush of icy air. It +gripped us and sapped the life from us. Ah-we-lah bent over his sled and +refused to move. I walked over and stood by his side. His dogs turned +and looked inquiringly at us. E-tuk-i-shook came near and stood +motionless, like a man in a trance, staring blankly at the southern +skies. Large tears fell from Ah-we-lah's eyes and froze in the blue of +his own shadow. Not a word was uttered. I knew that the dreaded time of +utter despair had come. The dogs looked at us, patient and silent in +their misery. Silently in the descending gloom we all looked over the +tremendous dead-white waste to the southward. With a tear-streaked and +withered face, Ah-we-lah slowly said, with a strangely shrilling wail, +"_Unne-sinig-po--Oo-ah-tonie i-o-doria--Ooh-ah-tonie i-o-doria!_" ("It +is well to die--Beyond is impossible--Beyond is impossible!") + +[Illustration: "TOO WEARY TO BUILD IGLOOS WE USED THE SILK TENT"] + +[Illustration: "ACROSS SEAS OF CRYSTAL GLORY TO THE BOREAL CENTRE"] + +[Illustration: MENDING NEAR THE POLE] + + + + +TO THE POLE--THE LAST HUNDRED MILES + +OVER PLAINS OF GOLD AND SEAS OF PALPITATING COLOR THE DOG TEAMS, WITH +NOSES DOWN, TAILS ERECT, DASH SPIRITEDLY LIKE CHARIOT HORSES--CHANTING +LOVE SONGS THE ESKIMOS FOLLOW WITH SWINGING STEP--TIRED EYES OPEN TO NEW +GLORY--STEP BY STEP, WITH THUMPING HEARTS THE EARTH'S APEX IS NEARED--AT +LAST! THE GOAL IS REACHED! THE STARS AND STRIPES ARE FLUNG TO THE FRIGID +BREEZES OF THE NORTH POLE! + +XIX + +BOREAL CENTER IS PIERCED + + +I shall never forget that dismal hour. I shall never forget that +desolate drab scene about us--those endless stretches of gray and +dead-white ice, that drab dull sky, that thickening blackness in the +west which entered into and made gray and black our souls, that ominous, +eerie and dreadful wind, betokening a terrorizing Arctic storm. I shall +never forget the mournful group before me, in itself an awful picture of +despair, of man's ambition failing just as victory is within his grasp. +Ah-we-lah, a thin, half-starved figure in worn furs, lay over his sled, +limp, dispirited, broken. In my ears I can now hear his low sobbing +words, I can see the tears on his yellow fissured face. I can see +E-tuk-i-shook standing gaunt and grim, and as he gazed yearningly onward +to the south, sighing pitifully, shudderingly for the home, the loved +one, An-na-do-a, left behind, whom, I could tell, he did not expect to +see again. + +It was a critical moment. Up to this time, during the second week of +April, we had, by intense mental force, goaded our wearied legs onward +to the limit of endurance. With a cutting wind in our faces, feeling +with each step the cold more severely to the marrow of our bones, with +our bodily energy and our bodily heat decreasing, we had traveled +persistently, suffering intolerable pains with every breath. Despite +increasing despair, I had cheered my companions as best I could; I had +impressed upon them the constant nearing of my goal. I had encouraged in +them the belief of nearness of land; each day I had gone on, fearing +what had now come, the utter breaking of their spirits. + +"_Unne-sinikpo-ashuka._" (Yes, it is well to die.) + +"_Awonga-up-dow-epuksha!_" (Yesterday I, too, felt that way), I said to +myself. The sudden extinction of consciousness, I thought, might be +indeed a blessed relief. But as long as life persisted, as long as human +endurance could be strained, I determined to continue. Desperate as was +my condition, and suffering hellish tortures, the sight of the despair +of my companions re-aroused me. Should we fail now, after our long +endurance, now, when the goal was so near? + +The Pole was only one hundred miles beyond. The attainment seemed almost +certain. + +"_Accou-ou-o-toni-ah-younguluk_" (Beyond to-morrow it will be better), +I urged, trying to essay a smile. "_Igluctoo!_" (Cheer up!) + +Holding up one hand, with a reach Poleward, bending five fingers, one +after the other, I tried to convey the idea that in five sleeps the "Big +Nail" would be reached, and that then we would turn (pointing with my +fingers) homeward. + +"_Noona-me-neulia-capa--ahmisua_" (For home, sweethearts and food in +abundance), I said. + +"_Noona-terronga, neuliarongita, ootah--peterongito_" (Land is gone; +loved ones are lost; signs of life have vanished). + +"_Tig-i-lay-waongacedla--nellu ikah-amisua_" (Return will I, the sky and +weather I do not understand. It is very cold), said Ah-we-lah. + +"_Attuda-emongwah-ka_" (A little farther come), I pleaded. +"_Attudu-mikisungwah_" (Only a little further). + +"_Sukinut-nellu_" (The sun I do not understand), said E-tuk-i-shook. + +This had been a daily complaint for some days--the approaching equality +of the length of shadows for night and day puzzled them. The failing +night dip of the sun left them without a guiding line to give direction. +They were lost in a landless, spiritless world, in which the sky, the +weather, the sun and all was a mystery. + +I knew my companions were brave. I was certain of their fidelity. Could +their mental despair be alleviated, I felt convinced they could brace +themselves for another effort. I spoke kindly to them; I told them what +we had accomplished, that they were good and brave, that their parents +and their sweethearts would be proud of them, and that as a matter of +honor we must not now fail. + +"_Tigishu-conitu_," I said. (The Pole is near.) + +"_Sinipa tedliman dossa-ooahtonie tomongma ah youngulok tigilay toy +hoy._" (At the end of five sleeps it is finished, beyond all is well, we +return thereafter quickly.) + +"_Seko shudi iokpok. Sounah ha-ah!_" they replied. (On ice always is not +good. The bones ache.) + +Then I said, "The ice is flat, the snow is good, the sky is clear, the +Great Spirit is with us, the Pole is near!" + +Ah-we-lah dully nodded his head. I noticed, however, he wiped his eyes. + +"_Ka-bishuckto-emongwah_" (Come walk a little further), I went on. +"_Accou ooahtoni-ahningahna-matluk-tigilay-Inut-noona._" (Beyond +to-morrow within two moons we return to Eskimo lands.) + +"_K i s a h iglucto-tima-attahta-annona-neuliasing-wah_," said +Ah-we-lah. (At last, then it is to laugh! There we will meet father +and mother and little wives!) + +"_Ashuka-alningahna-matluk_," I returned. (Yes, in two moons there will +be water and meat and all in plenty.) + +E-tuk-i-shook gazed at me intently. His eyes brightened. + +As I spoke my own spirits rose to the final effort, my lassitude gave +way to a new enthusiasm. I felt the fire kindling for many years aglow +within me. The goal was near; there remained but one step to the apex of +my ambition. I spoke hurriedly. The two sat up and listened. Slowly they +became inspired with my intoxication. Never did I speak so vehemently. + +E-tuk-i-shook gripped his whip. "_Ka, aga_" (Come, go!) he said. + +Ah-we-lah, determined but grim, braced his body and shouted to the +dogs--"_Huk, Huk, Huk_," and then to us he said, "_Aga-Ka!_" (Go-come). + +With snapping whip we were off for that last hundred miles. + +The animals pricked their ears, re-curled their tails, and pulled at the +traces. Shouting to keep up the forced enthusiasm, we bounded forward on +the last lap. A sort of wild gratification filled my heart. I knew that +only mental enthusiasm would now prevent the defeat which might yet come +from our own bodies refusing to go farther. Brain must now drive muscle. +Fortunately the sense of final victory imparted a supernormal mental +stimulus. + +Gray ice hummocks sped by us. My feet were so tired that I seemed to +walk on air. My body was so light from weakness that I suppose I should +hardly have been surprised had I floated upward from the ice in a gust +of wind. I felt the blood moving in my veins and stinging like needles +in my joints as one does when suffering with neurasthenia. I swung my +axe. The whip of my companions cut the air. The dogs leaped over the +ice, with crunching progress they pulled themselves over hummocks much +as cats climb trees. Distance continued to fade behind us. + +On April 14, my observations gave latitude, 88° 21´; longitude, 95° +52´. The wind came with a satanic cut from the west. There had been +little drift. But with a feeling of chagrin I saw that the ice before us +displayed signs of recent activity. It was more irregular, with open +cracks here and there. These we had to avoid, but the sleds glided with +less friction, and the weary dogs maintained a better speed. + +With set teeth and newly sharpened resolutions, we continued mile after +mile of that last one hundred. More dogs had gone into the stomachs of +their hungry companions, but there still remained a sufficient pull of +well-tried brute force for each sled. Although their noisy vigor had +been gradually lost in the long drag, they still broke the frigid +silence with an occasional outburst of howls. Any fresh enthusiasm from +the drivers was quickly responded to by canine activity. + + * * * * * + +We were in good trim to cover distance economically. Our sledges were +light, our bodies were thin. We had lost, since leaving winter camp, +judging from appearances, from twenty-five to forty pounds each. All our +muscles had shriveled. The dogs retained strength that was amazing. +Stripped for the last lap, one horizon after another was lifted. + + =From original field papers.--Observations of April 14, 1908.= + Long. 95-52. Bar. 29.90 Falling. Temp. -44°. Clouds Cu. St. & Alt. + St. 4. Wind 1-3. Mag. E. + + Noon 0....... = 22--02--05 + 96 === + 4 0....... = 22--56--20 + +-------- +----------- + 60 | 384 2 | 44--58--25 + +-------- +----------- + 6-24 22--29--12 + +2 + +----------- + 54 2 | 22--31--12 + 6½ +----------- + ------- 11--15--36 + 27 --9 + 324 ----------- + +------- 11-- 6--36 + 60 | 351 90 + +------- ----------- + 5--51 78--53--24 + 9--21--50 9--27--41 + ----------- ----------- + 9--27--41 88--21-- 5 + + Shadow 30½ ft. (of tent pole 6 ft. above snow.) + +In the forced effort which followed we frequently became overheated. The +temperature was steady at 44° below zero, Fahrenheit. Perspiration came +with ease, and with a certain amount of pleasure. Later followed a train +of suffering for many days. The delight of the birdskin shirt gave place +to the chill of a wet blanket. Our coats and trousers hardened to icy +suits of armor. It became quite impossible to dress after a sleep +without softening the stiffened furs with the heat of our bare skin. +Mittens, boots and fur stockings became quite useless until dried out. + +Fortunately, at this time the rays of the sun were warm enough to dry +the furs in about three days, if lashed to the sunny side of a sled as +we marched along, and strangely enough, the furs dried out without +apparent thawing. In these last days we felt more keenly the pangs of +perspiration than in all our earlier adventures. We persistently used +the amber-colored goggles. They afforded protection to the eyes, but in +spite of every precaution, our distorted, frozen, burned and withered +faces lined a map in relief, of the hardships endured en route. + +We were curious looking savages. The perpetual glitter of the snows +induced a squint of our eyes which distorted our faces in a remarkable +manner. The strong light reflected from the crystal surface threw the +muscles about the eyes into a state of chronic contraction. The iris was +reduced to a mere pin-hole. + +The strong winds and drifting snows necessitated the habit of peeping +out of the corners of the eyes. Nature, in attempting to keep the ball +from hardening, flushed it at all times with blood. To keep the seeing +windows of the mind open required a constant exertion of will power. The +effect was a set of expressions of hardship and wrinkles which might be +called the boreal squint. + +This boreal squint is a part of the russet-bronze physiognomy which +falls to the lot of every Arctic explorer. The early winds, with a +piercing temperature, start a flush of scarlet, while frequent +frostbites leave figures in black. Later the burning sun browns the +skin; subsequently, strong winds sap the moisture, harden the skin and +leave open fissures on the face. The human face takes upon itself the +texture and configuration of the desolate, wind-driven world upon which +it looks. + +Hard work and reduced nourishment contract the muscles, dispel the fat +and leave the skin to shrivel in folds. The imprint of the goggles, the +set expression of hard times, and the mental blank of the environment +remove all spiritual animation. Our faces assumed the color and lines of +old, withering, russet apples, and would easily pass for the mummied +countenances of the prehistoric progenitors of man. + +In enforced efforts to spread out our stiffened legs over the last +reaches, there was left no longer sufficient energy at camping times to +erect snow shelters. Our silk tent was pressed into use. Although the +temperature was still very low, the congenial rays pierced the silk +fabric and rested softly on our eye lids closed in heavy slumber. In +strong winds it was still necessary to erect a sheltering wall, whereby +to shield the tent. + +As we progressed over the last one hundred mile-step, my mind was +divested of its lethargy. Unconsciously I braced myself. My senses +became more keen. With a careful scrutiny I now observed the phenomena +of the strange world into which fortune had pressed us--first of all +men. + +Step by step, I invaded a world untrodden and unknown. Dulled as I was +by hardship, I thrilled with the sense of the explorer in new lands, +with the thrill of discovery and conquest. "Then," as Keats says, "felt +I like some watcher of the skies, when a new planet swims into his ken." +In this land of ice I was master, I was sole invader. I strode forward +with an undaunted glory in my soul. + +Signs of land, which I encouraged my companions to believe were real, +were still seen every day, but I knew, of course, they were deceptive. +It now seemed to me that something unusual must happen, that some line +must cross our horizon to mark the important area into which we were +passing. + +Through vapor-charged air of crystal, my eyes ran over plains moving in +brilliant waves of running colors toward dancing horizons. Mirages +turned things topsy-turvy. Inverted lands and queer objects ever rose +and fell, shrouded in mystery. All of this was due to the atmospheric +magic of the continued glory of midnight suns in throwing piercing beams +of light through superimposed strata of air of varying temperature and +density. + +Daily, by careful measurements, I found that our night shadows shortened +and became more uniform during the passing hours of the day, as the +shadow dial was marked. + +With a lucky series of astronomical observations our position was fixed +for each stage of progress. + +Nearing the Pole, my imagination quickened. A restless, almost +hysterical excitement came over all of us. My boys fancied they saw +bears and seals. I had new lands under observation frequently, but with +a change in the direction of light the horizon cleared. We became more +and more eager to push further into the mystery. Climbing the long +ladder of latitudes, there was always the feeling that each hour's work +was bringing us nearer the Pole--the Pole which men had sought for three +centuries, and which, fortune favoring, should be mine! + +Yet, I was often so physically tired that my mind was, when the +momentary intoxications passed, in a sense, dulled. But the habit of +seeing and of noting what I had seen, had been acquired. The habit, yes, +of putting one foot in front of the other, mile after mile, through the +wild dreariness of ice, the habit of observing, even though with aching, +blurred eyes, and noting, methodically, however wearily, what the tired +eyes had seen. + +From the eighty-eighth to the eighty-ninth parallel the ice lay in large +fields, the surface was less irregular than formerly. In other respects +it was about the same as below the eighty-seventh. I observed here also, +an increasing extension of the range of vision. I seemed to scan longer +distances, and the ice along the horizon had a less angular outline. The +color of the sky and the ice changed to deeper purple-blues. I had no +way of checking these impressions by other observations; the eagerness +to find something unusual may have fired my imagination, but since the +earth is flattened at the Pole, perhaps a widened horizon would +naturally be detected there. + +At eight o'clock on the morning of April 19, we camped on a picturesque +old field, with convenient hummocks, to the top of which we could easily +rise for the frequent outlook which we now maintained. We pitched our +tent, and silenced the dogs by blocks of pemmican. New enthusiasm was +aroused by a liberal pot of pea-soup and a few chips of frozen meat. +Then we bathed in life-giving sunbeams, screened from the piercing air +by the strands of the silk-walled tent. + +The day was beautiful. Had our sense of appreciation not been blunted by +accumulated fatigue we should have greatly enjoyed the play of light and +color in the ever-changing scene of sparkle. But in our condition it was +but an inducement to keep the eyes open and to prolong interest long +enough to dispel the growing complaint of aching muscles. + +Ah-we-lah and E-tuk-i-shook were soon lost in profound sleep, the only +comfort in their hard lives. I remained awake, as had been my habit for +many preceding days, to get nautical observations. My longitude +calculations lined us at 94° 3´. At noon the sun's altitude was +carefully set on the sextant, and the latitude, quickly reduced, gave +89° 31´. The drift had carried us too far east, but our advance was +encouraging. + +I put down the instrument, wrote the reckonings in my book. Then I +gazed, with a sort of fascination, at the figures. My heart began to +thump wildly. Slowly my brain whirled with exultation. I arose jubilant. +We were only 29 miles from the North Pole! + +I suppose I created quite a commotion about the little camp. +E-tuk-i-shook, aroused by the noise, awoke and rubbed his eyes. I told +him that in two average marches we should reach the "_tigi-shu_"--the +big nail. He sprang to his feet and shouted with joy. He kicked +Ah-we-lah, none too gently, and told him the glad news. + +Together they went out to a hummock, and through glasses, sought for a +mark to locate so important a place as the terrestrial axis! If but one +sleep ahead, it must be visible! So they told me, and I laughed. The +sensation of laughing was novel. At first I was quite startled. I had +not laughed for many days. Their idea was amusing, but it was eminently +sensible from their standpoint and knowledge. + +I tried to explain to them that the Pole is not visible to the eye, and +that its position is located only by a repeated use of the various +instruments. Although this was quite beyond their comprehension the +explanation entirely satisfied their curiosity. They burst out in +hurrahs of joy. For two hours they chanted, danced and shouted the +passions of wild life. Their joy, however, was in the thought of a +speedy turning back homeward, I surmised. + +This, however, was the first real sign of pleasure or rational emotion +which they had shown for several weeks. For some time I had entertained +the fear that we no longer possessed strength to return to land. This +unbridled flow of vigor dispelled that idea. My heart throbbed with +gladness. A font of new strength seemed to gush forth within me. +Considering through what we had gone, I now marvel at the reserve forces +latent in us, and I sometimes feel that I should write, not of human +weakness, but a new gospel of human strength. + +With the Pole only twenty-nine miles distant, more sleep was quite +impossible. We brewed an extra pot of tea, prepared a favorite broth of +pemmican, dug up a surprise of fancy biscuits and filled up on good +things to the limit of the allowance for our final feast days. The dogs, +which had joined the chorus of gladness, were given an extra lump of +pemmican. A few hours more were agreeably spent in the tent. Then we +started out with new spirit for the uttermost goal of our world. + +Bounding joyously forward, with a stimulated mind, I reviewed the +journey. Obstacle after obstacle had been overcome. Each battle won gave +a spiritual thrill, and courage to scale the next barrier. Thus had been +ever, and was still, in the unequal struggles between human and +inanimate nature, an incentive to go onward, ever onward, up the +stepping-stones to ultimate success. And now, after a life-denying +struggle in a world where every element of Nature is against the life +and progress of man, triumph came with steadily measured reaches of +fifteen miles a day! + +We were excited to fever heat. Our feet were light on the run. Even the +dogs caught the infectious enthusiasm. They rushed along at a pace which +made it difficult for me to keep a sufficient advance to set a good +course. The horizon was still eagerly searched for something to mark the +approaching boreal center. But nothing unusual was seen. The same +expanse of moving seas of ice, on which we had gazed for five hundred +miles, swam about us as we drove onward. + +Looking through gladdened eyes, the scene assumed a new glory. Dull blue +and purple expanses were transfigured into plains of gold, in which +were lakes of sapphire and rivulets of ruby fire. Engirdling this world +were purple mountains with gilded crests. It was one of the few days on +the stormy pack when all Nature smiled with cheering lights. + +As the day advanced beyond midnight and the splendor of the summer night +ran into a clearer continued day, the beams of gold on the surface snows +assumed a more burning intensity. Shadows of hummocks and ice ridges +became dyed with a deeper purple, and in the burning orange world loomed +before us Titan shapes, regal and regally robed. + +From my position, a few hundred yards ahead of the sleds, with compass +and axe in hand, as usual, I could not resist the temptation to turn +frequently to see the movement of the dog train with its new fire. In +this backward direction the color scheme was reversed. About the horizon +the icy walls gleamed like beaten gold set with gem-spots of burning +colors; the plains represented every shade of purple and blue, and over +them, like vast angel wings outspread, shifted golden pinions. Through +the sea of palpitating color, the dogs came, with spirited tread, noses +down, tails erect and shoulders braced to the straps, like chariot +horses. In the magnifying light they seemed many times their normal +size. The young Eskimos, chanting songs of love, followed with easy, +swinging steps. The long whip was swung with a brisk crack. Over all +arose a cloud of frosted breath, which, like incense smoke, became +silvered in the light, a certain signal of efficient motive power. + +With our destination reachable over smooth ice, in these brighter days +of easier travel our long chilled blood was stirred to double action, +our eyes opened to beauty and color, and a normal appreciation of the +wonders of this new strange and wonderful world. + +As we lifted the midnight's sun to the plane of the midday sun, the +shifting Polar desert became floored with a sparkling sheen of millions +of diamonds, through which we fought a way to ulterior and greater +glory. + +Our leg cramps eased and our languid feet lifted buoyantly from the +steady drag as the soul arose to effervescence. Fields of rich purple, +lined with running liquid gold, burning with flashes of iridescent +colors, gave a sense of gladness long absent from our weary life. The +ice was much better. We still forced a way over large fields, small +pressure areas and narrow leads. But, when success is in sight, most +troubles seem lighter. We were thin, with faces burned, withered, frozen +and torn in fissures, with clothes ugly from overwear. Yet men never +felt more proud than we did, as we militantly strode off the last steps +to the world's very top! + +Camp was pitched early in the morning of April 20. The sun was +northeast, the pack glowed in tones of lilac, the normal westerly air +brushed our frosty faces. Our surprising burst on enthusiasm had been +nursed to its limits. Under it a long march had been made over average +ice, with the usual result of overpowering fatigue. Too tired and sleepy +to wait for a cup of tea, we poured melted snow into our stomach and +pounded the pemmican with an axe to ease the task of the jaws. Our eyes +closed before the meal was finished, and the world was lost to us for +eight hours. Waking, I took observations which gave latitude 89° 46´. + +Late at night, after another long rest, we hitched the dogs and loaded +the sleds. When action began, the feeling came that no time must be +lost. Feverish impatience seized me. + +Cracking our whips, we bounded ahead. The boys sang. The dogs howled. +Midnight of April 21 had just passed. + +Over the sparkling snows the post-midnight sun glowed like at noon. I +seemed to be walking in some splendid golden realms of dreamland. As we +bounded onward the ice swam about me in circling rivers of gold. + +E-tuk-i-shook and Ah-we-lah, though thin and ragged, had the dignity of +the heroes of a battle which had been fought through to success. + +We all were lifted to the paradise of winners as we stepped over the +snows of a destiny for which we had risked life and willingly suffered +the tortures of an icy hell. The ice under us, the goal for centuries of +brave, heroic men, to reach which many had suffered terribly and +terribly died, seemed almost sacred. Constantly and carefully I watched +my instruments in recording this final reach. Nearer and nearer they +recorded our approach. Step by step, my heart filled with a strange +rapture of conquest. + +At last we step over colored fields of sparkle, climbing walls of purple +and gold--finally, under skies of crystal blue, with flaming clouds of +glory, we touch the mark! The soul awakens to a definite triumph; there +is sunrise within us, and all the world of night-darkened trouble fades. +We are at the top of the world! The flag is flung to the frigid breezes +of the North Pole! + +[Illustration: ROUTE TO THE POLE AND RETURN + +A triangle of 30,000 square miles cut out of the mysterious unknown] + + + + +AT THE NORTH POLE + +OBSERVATIONS AT THE POLE--METEOROLOGICAL AND ASTRONOMICAL +PHENOMENA--SINGULAR STABILITY AND UNIFORMITY OF THE THERMOMETER AND +BAROMETER--A SPOT WHERE ONE'S SHADOW IS THE SAME LENGTH EACH HOUR OF THE +TWENTY-FOUR--EIGHT POLAR ALTITUDES OF THE SUN + +XX + +FULL AND FINAL PROOFS OF THE ATTAINMENT + + +Looking about me, after the first satisfactory observation, I viewed the +vacant expanse. The first realization of actual victory, of reaching my +lifetime's goal, set my heart throbbing violently and my brain aglow. I +felt the glory which the prophet feels in his vision, with which the +poet thrills in his dream. About the frozen plains my imagination evoked +aspects of grandeur. I saw silver and crystal palaces, such as were +never built by man, with turrets flaunting "pinions glorious, golden." +The shifting mirages seemed like the ghosts of dead armies, magnified +and transfigured, huge and spectral, moving along the horizon and +bearing the wind-tossed phantoms of golden blood-stained banners. + +The low beating of the wind assumed the throb of martial music. +Bewildered, I realized all that I had suffered, all the pain of +fasting, all the anguish of long weariness, and I felt that this was my +reward. I had scaled the world, and I stood at the Pole! + +By a long and consecutive series of observations and mental tabulations +of various sorts on our journey northward, continuing here, I knew, +beyond peradventure of doubt, that I was at a spot which was as near as +possible, by usual methods of determination, five hundred and twenty +miles from Svartevoeg, a spot toward which men had striven for more than +three centuries--a spot known as the North Pole, and where I stood first +of white men. In my own achievement I felt, that dizzy moment, that all +the heroic souls who had braved the rigors of the Arctic region found +their own hopes' fulfilment. I had realized their dream. I had +culminated with success the efforts of all the brave men who had failed +before me. I had finally justified their sacrifices, their very death; I +had proven to humanity humanity's supreme triumph over a hostile, +death-dealing Nature. It seemed that the souls of these dead exulted +with me, and that in some sub-strata of the air, in notes more subtle +than the softest notes of music, they sang a pæan in the spirit with me. + +We had reached our destination. My relief was indescribable. The prize +of an international marathon was ours. Pinning the Stars and Stripes to +a tent-pole, I asserted the achievement in the name of the ninety +millions of countrymen who swear fealty to that flag. And I felt a pride +as I gazed at the white-and-crimson barred pinion, a pride which the +claim of no second victor has ever taken from me. + +My mental intoxication did not interfere with the routine work which +was now necessary. Having reached the goal, it was imperative that all +scientific observations be made as carefully as possible, as quickly as +possible. To the taking of these I set myself at once, while my +companions began the routine work of unloading the sledges and building +an igloo. + +[Illustration: CLIMBING THE LADDER OF LATITUDES] + +Our course when arriving at the Pole, as near as it was possible to +determine, was on the ninety-seventh meridian. The day was April 21, +1908. It was local noon. The sun was 11° 55´´ above the magnetic +northern horizon. My shadow, a dark purple-blue streak with ill-defined +edges, measured twenty-six feet in length. The tent pole, marked as a +measuring stick, was pushed into the snow, leaving six feet above the +surface. This gave a shadow twenty-eight feet long. + +Several sextant observations gave a latitude a few seconds below 90°, +which, because of unknown refraction and uncertain accuracy of time, was +placed at 90°. (Other observations on the next day gave similar results, +although we shifted camp four miles toward magnetic south.) A broken +hand-axe was tied to the end of a life-line; this was lowered through a +fresh break in the ice, and the angle which it made with the surface +indicated a drift toward Greenland. The temperature, gauged by a spirit +thermometer, was 37.7°, F. The mercury thermometer indicated -36°. The +atmospheric pressure by the aneroid barometer was at 29.83. It was +falling, and indicated a coming change in the weather. The wind was very +light, and had veered from northeast to south, according to the compass +card. + +The sky was almost clear, of a dark purple blue, with a pearly ice-blink +or silver reflection extending east, and a smoky water-sky west, in +darkened, ill-defined streaks, indicating continuous ice or land toward +Bering Sea, and an active pack, with some open water, toward +Spitzbergen. To the north and south were wine-colored gold-shot clouds, +flung in long banners, with ragged-pointed ends along the horizon. The +ice about was nearly the same as it had been continuously since leaving +the eighty-eighth parallel. It was slightly more active, and showed, by +news cracks and oversliding, young ice signs of recent disturbance. + +The field upon which we camped was about three miles long and two miles +wide. Measured at a new crevasse, the ice was sixteen feet thick. The +tallest hummock measured twenty-eight feet above water. The snow lay in +fine feathery crystals, with no surface crust. About three inches below +the soft snow was a sub-surface crust strong enough to carry the bodily +weight. Below this were other successive crusts, and a porous snow in +coarse crystals, with a total depth of about fifteen inches. + +Our igloo was built near one edge in the lee of an old hummock about +fifteen feet high. Here a recent bank of drift snow offered just the +right kind of material from which to cut building blocks. While a +shelter was thus being walled, I moved about constantly to read my +instruments and to study carefully the local environment. + +In a geographic sense we had now arrived at a point where all meridians +meet. The longitude, therefore, was zero. Time was a negative problem. +There being no longitude, there can be no time. The hour lines of +Greenwich, of New York, of Peking, and of all the world here run +together. Figuratively, if this position is the pin-point of the earth's +axis, it is possible to have all meridians under one foot, and therefore +it should be possible to step from midnight to midday, from the time of +San Francisco to that of Paris, from one side of the globe to the other, +as time is measured. + +[Illustration: WHERE ALL MERIDIANS MEET AND EVERY DIRECTION IS SOUTH + +The Pivotal Point on which the earth turns. + +*Magnetic Pole] + +Here there is but one day and but one night in each year, but the night +of six months is relieved by about one hundred days of continuous +twilight. Geographically, there was here but one direction. It was south +on every line of the dial of longitude--north, east and west had +vanished. We had reached a point where true direction became a paradox +and a puzzle. It was south before us, south behind us, and south on +every side. But the compass, pointing to the magnetic Pole along the +ninety-seventh meridian, was as useful as ever. (To avoid statements +easily misunderstood, all our directions about the Pole will be given as +taken from the compass, and without reference to the geographer's +anomaly of its being south in every direction.) + + =My first noon observations= gave the following result, which is + copied from the original paper, as it was written at the Pole and + reproduced photographically on another page. April 21, 1908: Long., + 97-W.; Bar., 29-83; Temp., -37.7; Clouds Alt., St., 1; Wind, 1; + Mag., S.; Iceblink E.; Water Sky W. + + Noon Alt. 0 23--33--25 + --- +2 + +-------------- + 2 | 23--35--25 + +-------------- + 11--47--42 5 + +15--56 + --------------- + 50 12-- 3--38 + 6½ --9 + ----------- --------------- + 25 11--54--38 + 300 90 + +---------- --------------- + 60 | 325 78-- 5--22 + +---------- 11--54--23 + 5--25 --------------- + 11--48--58 89--59--45 + ---------- + 11--54--23 + + Shadows 28 ft. (of 6 ft. pole). + +Taking advantage of our brief stay, the boys set up the ice-axe and +drying sticks, and hung upon them their perspiration-wetted and frosted +furs to dry. Hanging out wet clothes and an American flag at the North +Pole seemed an amusing incongruity. + +The puzzled standpoint of my Eskimos was amusing. They tried hard to +appreciate the advantages of finding this suppositious "_tigi shu_" (big +nail), but actually here, they could not, even from a sense of deference +to me and my judgment, entirely hide their feeling of disappointment. + +On the advance I had told them that an actual "big nail" would not be +found--only the point where it ought to be. But I think they really +hoped that if it had actually disappeared they should find that it had +come back into place after all! + +In building our igloo the boys frequently looked about expectantly. +Often they ceased cutting snow-blocks and rose to a hummock to search +the horizon for something which, to their idea, must mark this important +spot, for which we had struggled against hope and all the dictates of +personal comforts. At each breathing spell their eager eyes picked some +sky sign which to them meant land or water, or the play of some god of +land or sea. The naive and sincere interest which the Eskimos on +occasions feel in the mystery of the spirit-world gives them an +imaginative appreciation of nature often in excess of that of the more +material and skeptical Caucasian. + +Arriving at the mysterious place where, they felt, something should +happen, their imagination now forced an expression of disappointment. In +a high-keyed condition, all their superstitions recurred to them with +startling reality. + +In one place the rising vapor proved to be the breath of the great +submarine god--the "_Ko-Koyah_." In another place, a motionless little +cloud marked the land in which dwelt the "_Turnah-huch-suak_," the great +Land God, and the air spirits were represented by the different winds, +with sex relations. + +Ah-we-lah and E-tuk-i-shook, with the astuteness of the aborigine, who +reads Nature as a book, were sharp enough to note that the high air +currents did not correspond to surface currents; for, although the wind +was blowing homeward, and changed its force and direction, a few high +clouds moved persistently in a different direction. + +This, to them, indicated a warfare among the air spirits. The ice and +snow were also animated. To them the whole world presented a rivalry of +conflicting spirits which offered never-ending topics of conversation. + +As the foot pressed the snow, its softness, its rebound, or its metallic +ring indicated sentiments of friendliness or hostility. The ice, by its +color, movement or noise, spoke the humor of its animation, or that of +the supposed life of the restless sea beneath it. In interpreting these +spirit signs, the two expressed considerable difference of opinion. +Ah-we-lah saw dramatic situations and became almost hysterical with +excitement; E-tuk-i-shook saw only a monotone of the normal play of +life. Such was the trend of interest and conversation as the building of +the igloos was completed. + +Contrary to our usual custom, the dogs had been allowed to rest in their +traces attached to the sleds. Their usual malicious inquisitiveness +exhausted, they were too tired to examine the sleds to steal food. But +now, as the house was completed, holes were chipped with a knife in +ice-shoulders, through which part of a trace was passed, and each team +was thus securely fastened to a ring cut in ice-blocks. Then each dog +was given a double ration of pemmican. Their pleasure was expressed by +an extra twist of the friendly tails and an extra note of gladness from +long-contracted stomachs. Finishing their meal, they curled up and +warmed the snow, from which they took an occasional bite to furnish +liquid for their gastric economy. Almost two days of rest followed, and +this was the canine celebration of the Polar attainment. + +We withdrew to the inside of the dome of snow-blocks, pulled in a block +to close the doors, spread out our bags as beds on the platform of +leveled snow, pulled off boots and trousers, and slipped half-length +into the bristling reindeer furs. We then discussed, with chummy +congratulations, the success of our long drive to the world's end. + +While thus engaged, the little Juel stove piped the cheer of the +pleasure of ice-water, soon to quench our chronic thirst. In the +meantime, Ah-we-lah and E-tuk-i-shook pressed farther and farther into +their bags, pulled over the hoods, and closed their eyes to an +overpowering fatigue. But my lids did not easily close. I watched the +fire. More ice went into the kettle. With the satisfaction of an +ambition fulfilled, I peeped out occasionally through the pole-punched +port, and noted the horizon glittering with gold and purple. + +Quivers of self-satisfying joy ran up my spine and relieved the frosty +mental bleach of the long-delayed Polar anticipation. + +In due time we drank, with grateful satisfaction, large quantities of +ice-water, which was more delicious than any wine. A pemmican soup, +flavored with musk ox tenderloins, steaming with heat--a luxury seldom +enjoyed in our camps--next went down with warming, satisfying gulps. +This was followed by a few strips of frozen fresh meat, then by a block +of pemmican. Later, a few squares of musk ox suet gave the taste of +sweets to round up our meal. Last of all, three cups of tea spread the +chronic stomach-folds, after which we reveled in the sense of fulness +of the best meal of many weeks. + +With full stomachs and the satisfaction of a worthy task well performed, +we rested. + +We had reached the zenith of man's Ultima Thule, which had been sought +for more than three centuries. In comfortable berths of snow we tried to +sleep, turning with the earth on its northern axis. + +But sleep for me was impossible. At six o'clock, or six hours after our +arrival at local noon, I arose, went out of the igloo, and took a double +set of observations. Returning, I did some figuring, lay down on my bag, +and at ten o'clock, or four hours later, leaving Ah-we-lah to guard the +camp and dogs, E-tuk-i-shook joined me to make a tent camp about four +miles to the magnetic south. My object was to have a slightly different +position for subsequent observations. + +Placing our tent, bags and camp equipment on a sled, we pushed it over +the ice field, crossed a narrow lead sheeted with young ice, and moved +on to another field which seemed to have much greater dimensions. We +erected the tent not quite two hours later, in time for a midnight +observation. These sextant readings of the sun's altitude were continued +for the next twenty-four hours. + +In the idle times between observations, I went over to a new break +between the field on which we were camped and that on which Ah-we-lah +guarded the dogs. Here the newly-formed sheets of ice slid over each +other as the great, ponderous fields stirred to and fro. A peculiar +noise, like that of a crying child, arose. It came seemingly from +everywhere, intermittently, in successive crying spells. Lying down, +and putting my fur-cushioned ear to the edge of the old ice, I heard a +distant thundering noise, the reverberations of the moving, grinding +pack, which, by its wind-driven sweep, was drifting over the unseen seas +of mystery. In an effort to locate the cry, I searched diligently along +the lead. I came to a spot where two tiny pieces of ice served as a +mouthpiece. About every fifteen seconds there were two or three sharp, +successive cries. With the ice-axe I detached one. The cries stopped; +but other cries were heard further along the line. + +The time for observations was at hand, and I returned to take up the +sextant. Returning later to the lead, to watch the seas breathe, the cry +seemed stilled. The thin ice-sheets were cemented together, and in an +open space nearby I had an opportunity to study the making and breaking +of the polar ice. + +That tiny film of ice which voiced the baby cries spreads the world's +most irresistible power. In its making we have the nucleus for the +origin of the polar pack, that great moving crust of the earth which +crunches ships, grinds rocks, and sweeps mountains into the sea. +Beginning as a mere microscopic crystal, successive crystals, by their +affinity for each other, unite to make a disc. These discs, by the same +law of cohesion, assemble and unite. Now the thin sheet, the first sea +ice, is complete, and either rests to make the great field of ice, or +spreads from floe to floe and from field to field, thus spreading, +bridging and mending the great moving masses which cover the mid-polar +basin. + +Another law of nature was solved by a similar insignificant incident. In +spreading our things out to air and dry (for things will dry in wind +and sun, even at a very low temperature), two pieces of canvas were +thrown on a hummock. It was a white canvas sled-cover and a black strip +of canvas, in which the boat fittings were wrapped. When these strips of +canvas were lifted it was found that under the part of the black canvas, +resting on a slope at right angles to the sun, the snow had melted and +recongealed. Under the white canvas the snow had not changed. The +temperature was -41°; we had felt no heat, but this black canvas had +absorbed enough heat from a feeble sun to melt the snow beneath it. This +little lesson in physics began to interest me, and on the return many +similar experiments were made. As the long, tedious marches were made, I +asked myself the questions: Why is snow white? Why is the sky blue? And +why does black burn snow when white does not? + +Little by little, in the long drive of monotony, satisfactory answers +came to these questions. Thus, in seeking abstract knowledge, the law of +radiation was thoroughly examined. In doing this, there came to me +slowly the solution of various problems of animal life, and eventually +there was uncovered what to me proved a startling revelation in the +incidents that led up to animal coloring in the Arctic. For here I found +that the creatures' fur and feathers were colored in accord with their +needs of absorbing external heat or of conserving internal heat. The +facts here indicated will be presented later, when we deal with the +snow-fitted creatures at close range. + +One of the impressions which I carried with me of this night march was +that the sun seemed low--lower, indeed, than that of midday, which, in +reality, was not true, for the observations placed it nine minutes +higher. This was an indication of the force of habit. In the northward +march we had noted a considerable relative difference in the height of +the night sun and that of the day. Although this difference had vanished +now, the mind at times refused to grasp the remarkable change.[16] + +At the Pole I was impressed by a peculiar uniformity in the temperature +of the atmosphere throughout the twenty-four hours, and also by a +strange monotone in color and light of sea and sky. I had begun to +observe this as I approached the boreal center. The strange equability +of light and color, of humidity and of air temperatures extended an area +one hundred miles about the Pole. This was noted both on my coming and +going over this district. + +Approaching the Pole, and as the night sun gradually lifted, an +increasing equalization of the temperature of night and day followed. +Three hundred miles from the Pole the thermometer at night had been from +10° to 20° lower than during the day. There the shivering chill of +midnight made a strong contrast to the burning, heatless glitter of +midday. At the Pole the thermometer did not rise or fall appreciably for +certain fixed hours of the day or night, but remained almost uniform +during the entire twenty-four hours. + +This, to a less notable extent, was true also of the barometer. Farther +south there had been a difference in the day and night range of the +barometer. Here, although the night winds continued more actively than +those of the day, the barometer was less variable than at any time on my +journey. + +At the Pole the tendency of change in force and direction of air +currents, observed farther south, for morning and evening periods, was +no longer noted. But when strong winds brushed the pack, a good deal of +the Polar equalization gave place to a radical difference, giving a +period for high and low temperatures; which period, however, did not +correspond to the usual hours of day or night. The winds, therefore, +seemed to carry to us the sub-Polar inequality of atmospheric variation +in temperature and pressure. Many of the facts bearing upon this problem +were not learned until later. Subsequently, I learned, also, that strong +winds often disturb the Polar atmospheric sameness; but all is given +here because of the striking impression which it made upon me at this +time. + +In the region about the Pole I observed that, although there were +remarkable and beauteous color blendings in the sky, the intense +contrasts and the spectacular display of cloud effects, seen in more +southern regions, were absent. + +A color suffusion is common throughout the entire Arctic zone. Light, +pouring from the low-lying sun, is reflected from the ice in an +indescribable blaze. From millions of ice slopes, with millions and +millions of tiny reflecting surfaces, each one a mirror, some large, +some smaller than specks of diamond dust, this light is sent back in +different directions in burning waves to the sky. A liquid light seems +forced back from the sky into every tiny crevice of this bejeweled +wonderland. One color invariably predominates at a time. Sometimes the +ice and air and sky are suffused with a hue of rose, again of orange, +again of a light alloyed yellow, again blue; and, as we get farther +north, more dominantly purple. Farther south, in our journey northward, +we had viewed color effects in reality incomparably more beautiful than +those in the regions about the Pole. The sun, farther south, in rising +and setting, and with limitless changes of polarized and refracted +light, passing through strata of atmosphere of varying depths of +different density, produces kaleidoscopic changes of burning color. + +[Illustration: FIRST CAMP AT THE POLE, APRIL 21, 1908] + +[Illustration: AT THE POLE--"WE WERE THE ONLY PULSATING CREATURES IN A +DEAD WORLD OF ICE"] + +At the Pole there were sunbursts, but because of the slight change in +the sun's dip to the horizon, the prevailing light was invariably in +shades running to purple. At first my imagination evoked a more glowing +wonder than in reality existed; as the hours wore on, and as the wants +of my body asserted themselves, I began to see the vacant spaces with a +disillusionizing eye. + +The set of observations given here, taken every six hours, from noon on +April 21 to midnight on April 22, 1908, fixed our position with +reasonable certainty. + +These figures do not give the exact position for the normal spiral +ascent of the sun, which is about fifty seconds for each hour, or five +minutes for each six hours; but the uncertainties of error by refraction +and ice-drift do not permit such accuracy of observations. These figures +are submitted, therefore, not to establish the pin-point accuracy of our +position, but to show that we had approximately reached a spot where the +sun, throughout the twenty-four hours, circled the heavens in a line +nearly parallel to the horizon. + + +THE SUN'S TRUE CENTRAL ALTITUDE AT THE POLE. + +April 21 and 22, 1908. + + Seven successive observations, taken every six hours. + + Each observation is reduced for an instrumental error of +2´. + + For semi-diameter and also for refraction and parallax, -9´. + + The seven reductions are each calculated from two sextant readings, + generally of an upper and lower limb. + + (TAKEN FROM MY FIELD NOTES.) + + April 21, 1908, 97th meridian local + time--12 o'clock noon--11°--54´--40´´ + 6 P. M. (same camp). 12--00--10 + Moved camp 4 miles magnetic South + 12 o'clock (midnight) 12-- 3--50 + April 22nd, 6 A. M. 12-- 9--30 + 12 o'clock noon 12--14--20 + 6 P. M. 12--18--40 + 12 o'clock (midnight) 12--25--10 + Temperature, -41. Barometer, 30.05. + Shadow 27½ feet (of 6-foot pole). + +With the use of the sextant, the artificial horizon, pocket +chronometers, and the usual instruments and methods of explorers, our +observations were continued and our positions were fixed with the most +painstakingly careful safeguards possible against inaccuracy. The value +of all such observations as proof of a Polar success, however, is open +to such interpretation as the future may determine. This applies, not +only to me, but to anyone who bases any claim upon them. + +To me there were many seemingly insignificant facts noted in our +northward progress which left the imprint of milestones. Our footprints +marked a road ever onward into the unknown. Many of these almost +unconscious reckonings took the form of playful impressions, and were +not even at the time written down. + +In the first press reports of my achievement there was not space to go +into minute details, nor did the presentation of the subject permit an +elaboration on all the data gathered. But now, in the light of a better +perspective, it seems important that every possible phase of the +minutest detail be presented. For only by a careful consideration of +every phase of every phenomena en route can a true verdict be obtained +upon this widely discussed subject of Polar attainment. + +And now, right here, I want you to consider carefully with me one thing +which made me feel sure that we had reached the Pole. This is the +subject of shadows--our own shadows on the snow-covered ice. A seemingly +unimportant phenomenon which had often been a topic of discussion, and +so commonplace that I only rarely referred to it in my notebooks, our +own shadows on the snow-cushioned ice had told of northward movement, +and ultimately proved to my satisfaction that the Pole had been reached. + +In our northward progress--to explain my shadow observations from the +beginning--for a long time after our start from Svartevoeg, our shadows +did not perceptibly shorten or brighten, to my eyes. The natives, +however, got from these shadows a never-ending variety of topics of +conversation. They foretold storms, located game and read the story of +home entanglements. Far from land, far from every sign of a cheering, +solid earth, wandering with our shadows over the hopeless desolation of +the moving seas of glitter, I, too, took a keen interest in the blue +blots that represented our bodies. At noon, by comparison with later +hours, they were sharp, short, of a dark, restful blue. At this time a +thick atmosphere of crystals rested upon the ice pack, and when the sun +sank the strongest purple rays could not penetrate the frosty haze. +Long before the time for sunset, even on clear days, the sun was lost in +low clouds of drifting needles. + +[Illustration: SHADOW-CIRCLES INDICATING THE APPROACH TO THE POLE + +Shadow-circle about 250 miles from the Pole. Circle from which extend +radiating shadow-lines mark position of man. + +Shadow-circle when nearing the Pole, showing less difference in length +during the changing hours. + +Shadow-circle at the Pole; standing on the same spot, at each hour, +one's shadow is always apparently of the same length. + +Showing approximately the relative length of a man's shadow for each +hour of the twenty-four-hour day.] + +After passing the eighty-eighth parallel there was a notable change in +our shadows. The night shadow lengthened; the day shadow, by comparison, +shortened. The boys saw in this something which they could not +understand. The positive blue grew to a permanent purple, and the sharp +outlines ran to vague, indeterminate edges. + +Now at the Pole there was no longer any difference in length, color or +sharpness of outline between the shadow of the day or night. + +"What does it all mean?" they asked. The Eskimos looked with eager eyes +at me to explain, but my vocabulary was not comprehensive enough to give +them a really scientific explanation, and also my brain was too weary +from the muscular poison of fatigue to frame words. + +The shadows of midnight and those of midday were the same. The sun made +a circle about the heavens in which the eye detected no difference in +its height above the ice, either night or day. Throughout the +twenty-four hours there was no perceptible rise or set in the sun's +seeming movement. Now, at noon, the shadow represented in its length the +altitude of the sun--about twelve degrees. At six o'clock it was the +same. At midnight it was the same. At six o'clock in the morning it was +the same. + +A picture of the snowhouse and ourselves, taken at the same time and +developed a year later, gives the same length of shadow. The compass +pointed south. The night drop of the thermometer had vanished. Let us, +for the sake of argument, grant that all our instrumental observations +are wrong. Here is a condition of things in which I believed, and still +believe, the eye, without instrumental assistance, places the sun at +about the same height for every hour of the day and night. It is only on +the earth's axis that such an observation is possible. + +[Illustration: At a latitude about New York, a man's shadow lengthens +hour by hour as the sun descends toward the horizon at nightfall.] + +[Illustration: At the North Pole, a man's shadow is of equal length +during the entire twenty-four hours, since the sun moves spirally around +the heavens at about the same apparent height above the horizon +throughout the twenty-four-hour day.] + +There was about us no land. No fixed point. Absolutely nothing upon +which to rest the eye to give the sense of location or to judge +distance. + +Here everything moves. The sea breathes, and lifts the crust of ice +which the wind stirs. The pack ever drifts in response to the pull of +the air and the drive of the water. Even the sun, the only fixed dot in +this stirring, restless world, where all you see is, without your seeing +it, moving like a ship at sea, seems to have a rapid movement in a +gold-flushed circle not far above endless fields of purple crystal; but +that movement is never higher, never lower--always in the same fixed +path. The instruments detect a slight spiral ascent, day after day, but +the eye detects no change. + +Although I had measured our shadows at times on the northward march, at +the Pole these shadow notations were observed with the same care as the +measured altitude of the sun by the sextant. A series was made on April +22, after E-tuk-i-shook and I had left Ah-we-lah in charge of our first +camp at the Pole. We made a little circle for our feet in the snow. +E-tuk-i-shook stood in the foot circle. At midnight the first line was +cut in the snow to the end of his shadow, and then I struck a deep hole +with the ice-axe. Every hour a similar line was drawn out from his foot. +At the end of twenty-four hours, with the help of Ah-we-lah, a circle +was circumscribed along the points, which marked the end of the shadow +for each hour. The result is represented in the snow diagram on the next +page. + +[Illustration: SHADOW DIAL AT THE POLE + +At the Pole, a man's shadow is about the same length for every hour of +the double day. When a shadow line is drawn in the snow from a man's +foot in a marked dial, the human shadows take the place of the hands of +a clock and mark the time by compass bearing. The relative length of +these shadows also give the latitude or a man's position north or south +of the equator. When during two turns around the clock dial, the shadows +are all of about equal length, the position of the earth's axis is +positively reached--even if all other observations fail. This simple +demonstration is an indisputable proof of being on the North Pole.] + +In the northward march we did not stay up all of bedtime to play with +shadow circles. But, at this time, to E-tuk-i-shook the thing had a +spiritual interest. To me it was a part of the act of proving that the +Pole had been attained. For only about the Pole, I argued, could all +shadows be of equal length. Because of this combination of keen +interests, we managed to find an excuse, even during sleep hours, to +draw a line on our shadow circle. + +Here, then, I felt, was an important observation placing me with fair +accuracy at the Pole, and, unlike all other observations, it was not +based on the impossible dreams of absolutely accurate time or sure +corrections for refraction. + +[Illustration: HOW THE ALTITUDE OF THE SUN ABOVE THE HORIZON FIXES THE +POSITION OF THE NORTH POLE + + OBSERVED ALTITUDES, APRIL 22, 1908 + + 6 A. M. NOON 6 P. M. + + 12° 9´ 30´´ 12° 14´ 20´´ 12° 18´ 40´´ + +The exact altitude of the sun at noon of April 22, 1908, on the pole, +was 12° 9´ 16´´, but owing to ice-drift--the impossibility of +accurate time--and unknown error by refraction, no such pin-point +accuracy can be recorded. At each hour the sun, circling about the +horizon, cast a shadow of uniform length.] + +At the place where E-tuk-i-shook and I camped, four miles south of where +I had left Ah-we-lah with the dogs, only two big ice hummocks were in +sight. There were more spaces of open water than at our first camp. +After a midnight observation--of April 22--we returned to camp. When the +dogs saw us approaching in the distance they rose, and a chorus of howls +rang over the regions of the Pole--regions where dogs had never howled +before. All the scientific work being finished, we began hastily to make +final preparations for departure. + +We had spent two days about the North Pole. After the first thrills of +victory, the glamor wore away as we rested and worked. Although I tried +to do so, I could get no sensation of novelty as we pitched our last +belongings on the sleds. The intoxication of success had gone. I suppose +intense emotions are invariably followed by reactions. Hungry, mentally +and physically exhausted, a sense of the utter uselessness of this +thing, of the empty reward of my endurance, followed my exhilaration. I +had grasped my _ignus fatuus_. It is a misfortune for any man when his +_ignus fatuus_ fails to elude him. + +During those last hours I asked myself why this place had so aroused an +enthusiasm long-lasting through self-sacrificing years; why, for so many +centuries, men had sought this elusive spot? What a futile thing, I +thought, to die for! How tragically useless all those heroic +efforts--efforts, in themselves, a travesty, an ironic satire, on much +vainglorious human aspiration and endeavor! I thought of the enthusiasm +of the people who read of the spectacular efforts of men to reach this +vacant silver-shining goal of death. I thought, too, in that hour, of +the many men of science who were devoting their lives to the study of +germs, the making of toxins; to the saving of men from the grip of +disease--men who often lost their own lives in their experiments; whose +world and work existed in unpicturesque laboratories, and for whom the +laudations of people never rise. It occurred to me--and I felt the +bitterness of tears in my soul--that it is often the showy and futile +deeds of men which men praise; and that, after all, the only work worth +while, the only value of a human being's efforts, lie in deeds whereby +humanity benefits. Such work as noble bands of women accomplish who go +into the slums of great cities, who nurse the sick, who teach the +ignorant, who engage in social service humbly, patiently, unexpectant of +any reward! Such work as does the scientist who studies the depredations +of malignant germs, who straightens the body of the crippled child, who +precipitates a toxin which cleanses the blood of a frightful and +loathsome disease! + +As my eye sought the silver and purple desert about me for some stable +object upon which to fasten itself, I experienced an abject abandon, an +intolerable loneliness. With my two companions I could not converse; in +my thoughts and emotions they could not share. I was alone. I was +victorious. But how desolate, how dreadful was this victory! About us +was no life, no spot to relieve the monotony of frost. We were the only +pulsating creatures in a dead world of ice. + +A wild eagerness to get back to land seized me. It seemed as though some +new terror had arisen from the icy waters. Something huge, something +baneful ... invisible ... yet whose terror-inspiring, burning eyes I +felt ... the master genii of the goal, perhaps ... some vague, terrible, +disembodied spirit force, condemned for some unimaginable sin to +solitary prisonment here at the top of the world, and who wove its +malignant, awful spell, and had lured men on for centuries to their +destruction.... The desolation of the place was such that it was almost +palpable; it was a thing I felt I must touch and see. My companions felt +the heavy load of it upon them, and from the few words I overheard I +knew they were eagerly picturing to themselves the simple joys of +existence at Etah and Annoatok. I remember that to me came pictures of +my Long Island home. All this arose, naturally enough, from the reaction +following the strain of striving so long and so fiercely after the goal, +combined with the sense of the great and actual peril of our situation. +But what a cheerless spot this was, to have aroused the ambition of man +for so many ages! + +There came forcibly, too, the thought that although the Pole was +discovered, it was not essentially discovered, that it could be +discovered, in the eyes of the world, unless we could return to +civilization and tell what we had done. Should we be lost in these +wastes or should we be frozen to death, or buried in the snow, or +drowned in a crevasse, it would never be known that we had been here. It +was, therefore, as vitally necessary to get back in touch with human +life, with our report, as it had been to get to the Pole. + +Before leaving, I enclosed a note, written on the previous day, in a +metallic tube. This I buried in the surface of the Polar snows. I knew, +of course, that this would not remain long at the spot, as the ice was +in the grip of a slow-drifting movement. I felt the possibility of this +slow movement was more important than if it remained stationary; for, if +ever found in the south, the destination of the tube would indicate the +ice drift from the Pole. The following is an exact copy of the original +note, which is reproduced photographically on another page: + + +COPY OF NOTE IN TUBE. + +April 21--at the North Pole. + + Accompanied by the Eskimo boys Ah-we-lah and E-tuk-i-shuk I reached + at noon to-day 90° N. a spot on the polar sea 520 miles north of + Svartevoeg. We were 35 days en route. Hope to return to-morrow on a + line slightly west of the northward track. + + New land was discovered along the 102 M. between 84 and 85. The ice + proved fairly good, with few open leads, hard snow and little + pressure trouble. We are in good health, and have food for forty + days. This, with the meat of the dogs to be sacrificed, will keep + us alive for fifty or sixty days. + + This note is deposited with a small American flag in a metallic + tube on the drifting ice. + + Its return will be appreciated, to the International Bureau of + Polar Research at the Royal Observatory, Uccle, Belgium. + + (Signed) FREDERICK A. COOK. + +[Illustration: POLAR ADVANCE OF THE NATIONAL STANDARDS + +Climax of four centuries of Arctic exploration--Stars and Stripes at the +Pole.] + + + + +THE RETURN--A BATTLE FOR LIFE AGAINST FAMINE AND FROST + +TURNED BACKS TO THE POLE AND TO THE SUN--THE DOGS, SEEMINGLY GLAD AND +SEEMINGLY SENSIBLE THAT THEIR NOSES WERE POINTED HOMEWARD, BARKED +SHRILLY--SUFFERING FROM INTENSE DEPRESSION--THE DANGERS OF MOVING ICE, +OF STORMS AND SLOW STARVATION--THE THOUGHT OF FIVE HUNDRED AND TWENTY +MILES TO LAND CAUSES DESPAIR + +XXI + +SOUTHWARD OVER THE MID-POLAR SEA + + +With few glances backward, we continued the homeward run in haste, +crossing many new crevasses and bound on a course along the one +hundredth meridian. + +The eagerness to solve the mystery had served its purpose. The memory of +the adventure for a time remained as a reminder of reckless daring. As +we now moved along, there came more and more strongly the realization of +the prospective difficulties of the return. Although the mercury was +still frozen and the sun's perpetual flush was lost in a frigid blue, +the time was at hand in lower latitudes for the ice to break and drift +southward. + +With correct reasoning, all former expeditions had planned to return to +land and a secure line of retreat by May 1. We could not hope to do this +until early in June. It seemed probable, therefore, that the ice along +the outskirts of the Polar sea would be much disrupted and that open +water, small ice and rapid drifts would seriously interfere with our +return to a sure footing on the shores of Fridtjof Nansen Sound. This +and many other possible dangers had been carefully considered before, +but the conquest of the Pole was not possible without such risks. + +We had started earlier than all other Polar expeditions and no time had +been lost en route. If misfortune came to us, it could not be because of +wasted energies or unnecessary delay. In the last days of the onward +rush to success there had been neither time nor opportunity to ponder +over future dangers, but now, facing the southern skies, under which lay +home and all for which we lived, the back trail seemed indescribably +long. In cold, sober thought, freed of the intoxication of Polar +enthusiasm, the difficulties increasingly darkened in color. We clearly +saw that the crucial stage of the campaign was not the taking of the +Pole. The test of our fitness as boreal conquerors was to be measured by +the outcome of a final battle for life against famine and frost. + +Figuring out the difficulties and possibilities of our return, I came to +the conclusion that to endeavor to get back by our upward trail would +not afford great advantage. Much time would be lost seeking the trail. +The almost continuous low drift of snow during some part of nearly every +day would obliterate our tracks and render the trail useless as a +beaten track in making travel easier. The advantage of previously +constructed snow houses as camps did not appeal to us. + +After one is accustomed to a new, clean, bright dome of snow every +night, as we were, the return to such a camp is gloomy and depressing. +The house is almost invariably left in such a shape that, for hygienic +reasons alone, it should not be occupied. Furthermore, the influence of +sun and storm absolutely destroys in a few days two out of three of all +such shelter places. Moreover, we were now camping in our silk tent and +did not require other shelter. At the season of the year in which we +were traveling, the activity of the pack farther south made +back-tracking impossible, because of irregular lateral drift of +individual fields. And to me the most important reason was an eager +desire to ascertain what might be discovered on a new trail farther +west. It was this eagerness which led to our being carried adrift and +held prisoners for a year. + +The first days, however, passed rapidly. The ice fields became smoother. +On April 24 we crossed five crevasses. With fair weather and favorable +ice, long marches were made. On the 24th we made sixteen miles, on the +25th fifteen miles, on the 26th, 27th and 28th, fourteen miles a day. +The fire of the homing sentiment began to dispel our overbearing +fatigue. The dogs sniffed the air. The Eskimos sang songs of the chase. +To me also there came cheering thoughts of friends and loved ones to be +greeted. I thought of delightful dinners, of soul-stirring music. For +all of us, the good speed of the return chase brought a mental +atmosphere of dreams of the pleasures of another world. For a time we +were blinded to ultimate dangers, just as we had been in the northward +dash. + +In our return along the one hundredth meridian, there were three +important objects to be gained by a route somewhat west of the northward +march. The increasing easterly drift would thus be counterbalanced. We +hoped to get near enough to the new lands to explore a part of the +coast. And a wider belt would be swept out of the unknown area. On April +30 the pedometer registered one hundred and twenty-one miles, and by our +system of dead reckoning, which was usually correct, we should have been +at latitude 87°, 59´, longitude 100°. The nautical observations gave +latitude 88°, 1´, longitude 97°, 42´. We were drifting eastward, +therefore, with increasing speed. To counterbalance our being moved by +this drift, we turned and bounded southward in a more westerly course. + +The never-changing sameness of the daily routine was again felt. The +novelty of success and the passion of the run for the goal were no +longer operative. The scenes of shivering blue wearied the eye, and +there was no inspiration in the moving sea of ice to gladden the heart. +The thermometer rose and fell between 30 and 40° below zero, Fahrenheit, +with a ceaseless wind. The first of May was at hand, bringing to mind +the blossoms and smiles of a kindly world. But here all nature was +narrowed to lines of ice. + +May 1 came with increasing color in the sunbursts, but without cheer. +The splendor of terrestrial fire was a cheat. Over the horizon, mirages +displayed celestial hysterics. The sun circled the skies in lines of +glory, but its heat was a sham, its light a torment. The ice was heavy +and smooth. On May 2, clouds obscured the sky, fog fell heavily over the +ice, we struck our course with difficulty but made nineteen miles. On +May 3 snow fell, but the end of the march brought clear skies, and, with +them, the longing for my land of blossoming cherry and apple trees. + +With weary nerves, and with compass in hand, my lonely march ahead of +the sledges continued day by day. Progress was satisfactory. We had +passed the eighty-ninth and eighty-eighth parallels. The eighty-seventh +and the eighty-sixth would soon be under foot, and the sight of the new +lands should give encouragement. These hard-fought times were days long +to be remembered. The lack of cerebral stimulation and nutrition left no +cellular resource to aid the memory of those fateful hours of chill. + +The long strain of the march had established a brotherly sympathy +amongst the trio of human strugglers. The dogs, though still possessing +the savage ferocity of the wolf, had taken us into their community. We +now moved among them without hearing a grunt of discord, and their +sympathetic eyes followed until we were made comfortable on the +cheerless snows. If they happened to be placed near enough, they edged +up and encircled us, giving the benefit of their animal heat. To remind +us of their presence, frost-covered noses were frequently pushed under +the sleeping bag, and occasionally a cold snout touched our warm skin +with a rude awakening. + +We loved the creatures, and admired their superb brute strength. Their +superhuman adaptability was a frequent topic of conversation. With a +pelt that was a guarantee against all weather condition, they threw +themselves down to the sweep of winds, in open defiance of death-dealing +storms. Eating but a pound of pemmican a day, and demanding neither +water nor shelter, they willingly did a prodigious amount of work and +then, as bed-fellows, daily offered their fur as shelter and their bones +as head-rests to their two-footed companions. We had learned to +appreciate the advantage of their beating breasts. The bond of animal +fellowship had drawn tighter and tighter in a long run of successive +adventures. And now there was a stronger reason than ever to appreciate +power, for together we were seeking an escape from a world which was +never intended for creatures with pulsating hearts. + +Much very heavy ice was crossed near the eighty-eighth parallel, but the +endless unbroken fields of the northward trails were not again seen. Now +the weather changed considerably. The light, cutting winds from the west +increased in force, and the spasmodic squalls came at shorter intervals. +The clear purples and blues of the skies gradually gave place to an ugly +hue of gray. A rush of frosty needles came over the pack for several +hours each day. + +The inducement to seek shelter in cemented walls of snow and to wait for +better weather was very great. But such delay would mean certain +starvation. Under fair conditions, there was barely food enough to reach +land, and even short delays might seriously jeopardize our return. We +could not, therefore, do otherwise than force ourselves against the wind +and drift with all possible speed, paying no heed to unavoidable +suffering. As there was no alternative, we tried to persuade ourselves +that existing conditions might be worse than they were. + +The hard work of igloo building was now a thing of the past--only one +had been built since leaving the Pole, and in this a precious day was +lost, while the atmospheric fury changed the face of the endless expanse +of desolation. The little silk tent protected us sufficiently from the +icy airs. There were still 50° of frost, but, with hardened skins and +insensible nerve filaments, the torture was not so keenly felt. Our +steady diet of pemmican, tea and biscuits was not entirely satisfactory. +We longed for enough to give a real filling sense, but the daily ration +had to be slightly reduced rather than increased. The change in life +from winter to summer, which should take place at about this time of the +year, was, in our case, marked only by a change in shelter, from the +snow house to the tent, and our beds were moved from the soft snow shelf +of the igloo to the hard, wind-swept crust. + +In my watches to get a peep of the sun at just the right moment, I was +kept awake during much of the resting period. For pastime, my eyes +wandered from snorting dogs to snoring men. During one of these idle +moments there came a solution of the utility of the dog's tail, a topic +with which I had been at play for several days. It is quoted here at the +risk of censure, because it is a typical phase of our lives which cannot +be illustrated otherwise. Seeming trivialities were seized upon as food +for thought. Why, I asked, has the dog a tail at all? The bear, the musk +ox, the caribou and the hare, each in its own way, succeeds very well +with but a dwarfed stub. Why does nature, in the dog, expend its best +effort in growing the finest fur over a seemingly useless line of tail +bones? The thing is distinctive, and one could hardly conceive of the +creature without the accessory, but nature in the Arctic does not often +waste energy to display beauties and temperament. This tail must have an +important use; otherwise it would soon fall under the knife of frost and +time. Yes! It was imported into the Arctic by the wolf progenitor of the +dog from warmer lands, where its swing served a useful purpose in fly +time. A nose made to breathe warm air requires some protection in the +far north and the dog supplied the need with his tail. At the time when +I made this discovery a cold wind, charged with cutting crystal, was +brushing the pack. Each dog had his back arched to the wind and his face +veiled with an effective curl of his tail. Thus each was comfortably +shielded from icy torment by an appendage adapted to that very purpose. + +In the long tread over snowy wastes new lessons in human mechanism +aroused attention. At first the effort to find a workable way over the +troublesome pack surface had kept mind and body keyed to an exciting +pitch, but slowly this had changed. By a kind of unconscious intuition, +the eye now found easy routes, the lower leg mechanically traveled over +yards and miles and degrees without even consulting the brain, while the +leg trunk, in the effort to conserve energy, was left in repose at +periods during miles of travel, thus saving much of the exertion of +walking. + +The muscles, thus schooled to work automatically, left the mind free to +work and play. The maddening monotone of our routine, together with the +expenditure of every available strain of force, had left the head dizzy +with emptiness. Something must be done to lift the soul out of the +boreal bleach. + +The power of the mind over the horse-power of the body was here shown at +its best. The flesh proved loyal to the gray matter only while mental +entertainment was encouraged. Thus aching muscles were persuaded to do +double duty without sending up a cry of tired feeling. The play of the +mind with topics of its own choosing is an advantage worth seeking at +all times. But, to us, it multiplied vital force and increased greatly +the daily advance. Science, art and poetry were the heights to which the +wings of thought soared. Beginning with the diversion of making curious +speculations on subjects such as that of the use of the dog's tail and +the Arctic law of animal coloring, the first period of this mental +exercise closed with my staging a drama of the comedies and tragedies of +the Eskimos. + +In the effort to frame sentiment in measured lines, a weird list of +topics occupied my strained fancy. In more agreeable moods I always +found pleasure in imagining a picture of the Polar sunrise, that budding +period of life when all Nature awakens after its winter sleep. It was +not difficult to start E-tuk-i-shook and Ah-we-lah on similar flights of +fancy. A mere suggestion would keep up a flow of agreeable thought for +several days. + +By such forced mental stimuli the centers of fatigue were deluded into +insensibility. The eighty-seventh parallel was crossed, the eighty-sixth +was neared, but there came a time when both mind and body wearied of the +whole problem of forced resolution. + +On May 6 we were stopped at six in the morning by the approach of an +unusual gale. The wind had been steady and strong all night, but we did +not heed its threatening increase of force until too late. It came from +the west, as usual, driving coarse snow with needle points. The ice +about was old and hummocky, offering a difficult line of march, but some +shelter. In the strongest blasts we threw ourselves over the sled behind +hummocks and gathered new breath to force a few miles more. + +Finally, when no longer able to force the dogs through the blinding +drift we sought the lee of an unlifted block of ice. Here suitable snow +was found for a snow house. A few blocks were cut and set, but the wind +swept them away as if they were chips. The tent was tried, but it could +not be made to stand in the rush of the roaring tumult. In sheer despair +we crept into the tent without erecting the pole. Creeping into bags, we +then allowed the flapping silk to be buried by the drifting snow. Soon +the noise and discomfort of the storm were lost and we enjoyed the +comfort of an icy grave. An efficient breathing hole was kept open, and +the wind was strong enough to sweep off the weight of a dangerous drift. +A new lesson was thus learned in fighting the battle of life, and it was +afterwards useful. + +Several days of icy despair now followed one another in rapid +succession. The wind did not rise to the full force of a storm, but it +was too strong and too cold to travel. The food supply was noticeably +decreasing. The daily advance was less. With such weather, starvation +seemed inevitable. Camp was moved nearly every day, but ambition sank to +the lowest ebb. To the atmospheric unrest was added the instability of +broken ice and the depressing mystery of an unknown position. For many +days no observations had been possible. Our location could only be +guessed at. + +Through driving storms, with the wind wailing in our ears and deafening +us to the dismal howling of the hungry dogs, we pushed forward in a +daily maddening struggle. The route before us was unknown. We were in +the fateful clutch of a drifting sea of ice. I could not guess whither +we were bound. At times I even lost hope of reaching land. Our bodies +were tired. Our legs were numb. We were almost insensible to the mad +craving hunger of our stomachs. We were living on a half ration of food, +and daily becoming weaker.[17] + +Sometimes I paused, overcome by an almost overwhelming impulse to lie +down and drift through sleep into death. At these times, fortunately, +thoughts of home came thronging, with memories as tender as are the +memories of singing spring-time birds in winter time. And, although the +stimulating incentive of reaching the Pole on going north was gone, now, +having accomplished the feat, there was always the thought that unless I +got home no one should ever learn of that superhuman struggle, that +final victory. + +Empty though it was, I had, as I had hoped, proved myself to myself; I +had justified the three centuries of human effort: I had proven that +finite human brain and palpitating muscle can be victorious over a cruel +and death-dealing Nature. It was a testimony that it was my duty to give +the world of struggling, striving men, and which, as a father, I hoped +with pride to give to my little children. + +[Illustration: PTARMIGAN] + + + + +BACK TO LIFE AND BACK TO LAND + +THE RETURN--DELUDED BY DRIFT AND FOG--CARRIED ASTRAY OVER AN UNSEEN +DEEP--TRAVEL FOR TWENTY DAYS IN A WORLD OF MISTS, WITH THE TERROR OF +DEATH--AWAKENED FROM SLEEP BY A HEAVENLY SONG--THE FIRST BIRD--FOLLOWING +THE WINGED HARBINGER--WE REACH LAND--A BLEAK, BARREN ISLAND POSSESSING +THE CHARM OF PARADISE--AFTER DAYS VERGING ON STARVATION, WE ENJOY A +FEAST OF UNCOOKED GAME + +XXII + +SOUTHWARD INTO THE AMERICAN ARCHIPELAGO + + +On May 24 the sky cleared long enough to permit me to take a set of +observations. I found we were on the eighty-fourth parallel, near the +ninety-seventh meridian. The new land I had noted on my northward +journey was hidden by a low mist. The ice was much crevassed, and +drifted eastward. Many open spaces of water were denoted in the west by +patches of water sky. The pack was sufficiently active to give us +considerable anxiety, although pressure lines and open water did not at +the time seriously impede our progress. + +Scarcely enough food remained on the sledges to reach our caches unless +we should average fifteen miles a day. On the return from the Pole to +this point we had been able to make only twelve miles daily. Now our +strength, even under fair conditions, did not seem to be equal to more +than ten miles. The outlook was threatening, and even dangerous, but the +sight of the cleared sky gave new courage to E-tuk-i-shook and +Ah-we-lah. + +Our best course was to get to Fridtjof Nansen Sound as soon as possible. +The new land westward was invisible, and offered no food prospects. An +attempted exploration might cause a fatal delay. + +Still depending upon a steady easterly drift of the pack, a course was +set somewhat west of Svartevoeg, the northern point of Axel Heiberg +Land. In pressing onward, light variable winds and thick fogs prevailed. +The ice changed rapidly to smaller fields as we advanced. The +temperature rose to zero, and the air really began to be warm. Our +chronic shivering disappeared. With light sledges and endurable weather, +we made fair progress over the increasing pack irregularities. + +As we crossed the eighty-third parallel we found ourselves to the west +of a large lead, extending slightly west of south. Immense quantities of +broken and pulverized ice lined the shores to a width of several miles. +The irregularities of this surface and the uncemented break offered +difficulties over which no force of man or beast could move a sledge or +boat. Compelled to follow the line of least resistance, a southerly +course was set along the ice division. The wind now changed and came +from the east, but there was no relief from the heavy banks of fog that +surrounded us. + +The following days were days of desperation. The food for man and dog +was reduced, and the difficulties of ice travel increased +dishearteningly. We traveled twenty days, not knowing our position. A +gray mystery enshrouded us. Terror followed in our wake. Beneath us the +sea moved--whither it was carrying us I did not know. That we were +ourselves journeying toward an illimitable, hopeless sea, where we +should die of slow, lingering starvation, I knew was a dreadful +probability. Every minute drew its pangs of despair and fear. + +The gray world of mist was silent. My companions gazed at me with faces +shriveled, thinned and hardened as those of mummies. Their anguish was +unspeakable. My own vocal powers seemed to have left me. Our dogs were +still; with bowed heads, tails drooping, they pulled the sledges +dispiritedly. We seemed like souls in torment, traveling in a world of +the dead, condemned to some Dantesque torture that should never cease. + +After the mental torment of threatened starvation, which prevented, +despite the awful languor of my tortured limbs, any sleep; after +heart-breaking marches and bitter hunger and unquenched thirst, the +baffling mist that had shut us from all knowledge at last cleared away +one morning. Our hearts bounded. I felt such relief as a man buried +alive must feel when, after struggling in the stifling darkness, his +grave is suddenly opened. Land loomed to the west and south of us. + +Yet we found we had been hardly dealt with by fate. Since leaving the +eighty-fourth parallel, without noticeable movement, we had been carried +astray by the ocean drift. We had moved with the entire mass that +covered the Polar waters. I took observations. They gave latitude 79° +32´, and longitude 101° 22´. At last I had discovered our +whereabouts, and found that we were far from where we ought to be. But +our situation was indeed nearly hopeless. The mere gaining a knowledge +of where we actually were, however, fanned again the inextinguishable +embers of hope. + +We were in Crown Prince Gustav Sea. To the east were the low mountains +and high valleys of Axel Heiberg Land, along the farther side of which +was our prearranged line of retreat, with liberal caches of good things +and with big game everywhere. But we were effectually barred from all +this. + +Between us and the land lay fifty miles of small crushed ice and +impassable lines of open water. In hard-fought efforts to cross these we +were repulsed many times. I knew that if by chance we should succeed in +crossing, there would still remain an unknown course of eighty miles to +the nearest cache, on the eastern coast of Axel Heiberg Land. + +We had no good reason to expect any kind of subsistence along the west +coast of Axel Heiberg Land. We had been on three-fourths rations for +three weeks, and there remained only half rations for another ten days. +Entirely aside from the natural barriers in the way of returning +eastward and northward, we were now utterly unequal to the task, for we +had not the food to support us. + +The land to the south was nearer. Due south there was a wide gap which +we took to be Hassel Sound. On each side there was a low ice-sheeted +island, beyond the larger islands which Sverdrup had named Ellef Ringnes +Land and Amund Ringnes Land. The ice southward was tolerably good and +the drift was south-south-east. + +In the hope that some young seals might be seen we moved into Hassel +Sound toward the eastern island. To satisfy our immediate pangs of +hunger was our most important mission. + +The march on June 14 was easy, with a bright warm sun and a temperature +but little under the freezing point. In a known position, on good ice, +and with land rising before us, we were for a brief period happy and +strong, even with empty stomachs. The horizon was eagerly sought for +some color or form or movement to indicate life. We were far enough +south to expect bears and seals, and expecting the usual luck of the +hungry savage, we sought diligently. Our souls reached forth through our +far-searching eyes. Our eyes pained with the intense fixity of gazing, +yet no animate thing appeared. The world was vacant and dead. Our +beating hearts, indeed, seemed to be the only palpitating things there. + +In the piercing rays of a high sun the tent was erected, and in it, +after eating only four ounces of pemmican and drinking two cups of icy +water, we sought rest. The dogs, after a similar ration, but without +water, fell into an easy sleep. I regarded the poor creatures with +tenderness and pity. For more than a fortnight they had not uttered a +sound to disturb the frigid silence. When a sled dog is silent and +refuses to fight with his neighbor, his spirit is very low. Finally I +fell asleep. + +At about six o'clock we were awakened by a strange sound. Our surprised +eyes turned from side to side. Not a word was uttered. Another sound +came--a series of soft, silvery notes--the song of a creature that +might have come from heaven. I listened with rapture. I believed I was +dreaming. The enchanting song continued--I lay entranced. I could not +believe this divine thing was of our real world until the pole of our +tent gently quivered. Then, above us, I heard the flutter of wings. It +was a bird--a snow bunting trilling its ethereal song--the first sound +of life heard for many months. + +We were back to life! Tears of joy rolled down our emaciated faces. If I +could tell you of the resurrection of the soul which came with that +first bird note, and the new interest which it gave in our subsequent +life, I should feel myself capable of something superhuman in powers of +expression. + +With the song of that marvelous bird a choking sense of homesickness +came to all of us. We spoke no word. The longing for home gripped our +hearts. + +We were hungry, but no thought of killing this little feathered creature +came to us. It seemed as divine as the bird that came of old to Noah in +the ark. Taking a few of our last bread crumbs, we went out to give it +food. The little chirping thing danced joyously on the crisp snows, +evidently as glad to see us as we were to behold it. I watched it with +fascination. At last we were back to life! We felt renewed vigor. And +when the little bird finally rose into the air and flew homeward, our +spirits rose, our eyes followed it, and, as though it were a token sent +to us, we followed its winged course landward with eager, bounding +hearts. + +We were now on immovable ice attached to the land. We directed our +course uninterruptedly landward, for there was no thought of further +rest or sleep after the visit of the bird had so uplifted our hearts. +Our chances of getting meat would have been bettered by following close +to the open water, but the ice there was such that no progress could be +made. Furthermore, the temptation quickly to set foot on land was too +great to resist. At the end of a hard march--the last few hours of which +were through deep snows--we mounted the ice edge, and finally reached a +little island--a bare spot of real land. When my foot touched it, my +heart sank. We sat down, and the joy of the child in digging the sand of +the seashore was ours. + +I wonder if ever such a bleak spot, in a desert of death, had so +impressed men before as a perfect paradise. In this barren heap of sand +and clay, we were at last free of the danger, the desolation, the +sterility of that soul-withering environment of a monotonously moving +world of ice and eternal frost. + +We fastened the dogs to a rock, and pitched the tent on earth-soiled +snows. In my joy I did not forget that the Pole was ours, but, at that +time, I was ready to offer freely to others the future pleasures of its +crystal environment and all its glory. Our cup had been filled too often +with its bitters and too seldom with its sweets for us to entertain +further thirst for boreal conquest. + +And we also resolved to keep henceforth from the wastes of the terrible +Polar sea. In the future the position of lands must govern our +movements. For, along a line of rocks, although we might suffer from +hunger, we should no longer be helpless chips on the ocean drift, and if +no other life should be seen, at least occasional shrimps would gladden +the heart. + +[Illustration: "WITH EAGER EYES WE SEARCHED THE DUSKY PLAINS OF CRYSTAL, +BUT THERE WAS NO LAND, NO LIFE, TO RELIEVE THE PURPLE RUN OF DEATH"] + +[Illustration: RECORD LEFT IN BRASS TUBE AT NORTH POLE] + +We stepped about on the solid ground with a new sense of security. But +the land about was low, barren, and shapeless. Its formation was +triassic, similar to that of most of Heiberg land, but in our immediate +surroundings, erosion by frost, the grind of ice sheets, and the power +of winds, had leveled projecting rocks and cliffs. Part of its interior +was blanketed with ice. Its shore line had neither the relief of a +colored cliff nor a picturesque headland; there was not even a wall of +ice; there were only dull, uninteresting slopes of sand and snow +separating the frozen sea from the land-ice. The most careful scrutiny +gave no indication of a living creature. The rocks were uncovered even +with black lichens. A less inviting spot of earth could not be +conceived, yet it aroused in us a deep sense of enthusiasm. A strip of +tropical splendor could not have done more. The spring of man's passion +is sprung by contrast, not by degrees of glory. + +In camp, the joy of coming back to earth was chilled by the agonizing +call of the stomach. The effervescent happiness could not dispel the +pangs of hunger. A disabled dog which had been unsuccessfully nursed for +several days was sacrificed on the altar of hard luck, and the other +dogs were thereupon given a liberal feed, in which we shared. To our +palates the flesh of the dog was not distasteful, yet the dog had been +our companion for many months, and at the same time that our +conscienceless stomachs were calling for more hot, blood-wet meat, a +shivering sense of guilt came over me. We had killed and were eating a +living creature which had been faithful to us. + +We were hard-looking men at this time. Our fur garments were worn +through at the elbows and at the knees. Ragged edges dangled in the +winds. All the boot soles were mere films, like paper with many holes. +Our stockings were in tatters. The bird-skin shirts had been fed to the +dogs, and strips of our sleeping bags had day by day been added to the +canine mess. It took all our spare time now to mend clothing. Dressed in +rags, with ugly brown faces, seamed with many deep wind-fissures, we had +reached, in our appearance, the extreme limit of degradation. + +At the Pole I had been thin, but now my skin was contracted over bones +offering only angular eminences as a bodily outline. The Eskimos were as +thin as myself. My face was as black as theirs. They had risen to higher +mental levels, and I had descended to lower animal depths. The long +strain, the hard experiences, had made us equals. We were, however, +still in good health and were capable of considerable hard work. It was +not alone the want of food which had shriveled our bodies, for greater +pangs of hunger were reserved for a later run of misfortune. Up to this +point persistent overwork had been the most potent factor. + +As we passed out of Hassel Sound, the ice drifted southward. Many new +fractures were noted, and open spaces of water appeared. Here was seen +the track of a rat--the first sign of a four-footed creature--and we +stopped to examine the tiny marks with great interest. Next, some old +bear tracks were detected. These simple things had an intense +fascination for us, coming as we did out of a lifeless world; and, too, +these signs showed that the possibilities of food were at hand, and the +thought sharpened our senses into savage fierceness. + +We continued our course southward, as we followed, wolf-like, in the +bear footprints. The sledges bounded over the icy irregularities as they +had not done for months. Every crack in the ice was searched for seals, +and with the glasses we mounted hummock after hummock to search the +horizon for bears. + +We were not more than ten miles beyond land when Ah-we-lah located an +auspicious spot to leeward. After a peep through the glasses he shouted. +The dogs understood. They raised their ears, and jumped to the full +length of their traces. We hurried eastward to deprive the bear of our +scent, but we soon learned that he was as hungry as we were, for he made +an air line for our changed position. We were hunting the bear--the bear +was also hunting us. + +Getting behind a hummock, we awaited developments. Bruin persistently +neared, rising on his haunches frequently so as the better to see +E-tuk-i-shook, who had arranged himself like a seal as a decoy. When +within a few hundred yards the dogs were freed. They had been waiting +like entrenched soldiers for a chance to advance. In a few moments the +gaunt creatures encircled the puzzled bear. Almost without a sound, they +leaped at the great animal and sank their fangs into his hind legs. +Ah-we-lah fired. The bear fell. + +Camp technique and the advantages of a fire were not considered--the +meat was swallowed raw, with wolfish haste, and no cut of carefully +roasted bullock ever tasted better. It was to such grim hunger that we +had come. + +Then we slept, and after a long time our eyes reopened upon a world +colored with new hope. The immediate threat of famine was removed, and a +day was given over to filling up with food. Even after that, a liberal +supply of fresh meat rested on the sledge for successive days of +feasting. In the days which followed, other bears, intent on examining +our larder, came near enough at times to enable us to keep up a liberal +supply of fresh meat. + +With the assurance of a food supply, a course was set to enter +Wellington Channel and push along to Lancaster Sound, where I hoped a +Scottish whaler could be reached in July or August. In this way it +seemed possible to reach home shores during the current year. If we +should try to reach Annoatok I realized we should in all probability be +compelled to winter at Cape Sabine. The ice to the eastward in Norwegian +Bay offered difficulties like those of Crown Prince Gustav Sea, and +altogether the easterly return to our base did not at this time seem +encouraging. The air-line distance to Smith Sound and that to Lancaster +Sound were about the same, with the tremendous advantage of a straight +course--a direct drift--and fairly smooth ice to the southward. + +This conclusion to push forward for Lancaster Sound was reached on June +19. We were to the west of North Cornwall Island, but a persistent local +fog gave only an occasional view of its icy upper slopes. The west was +clear, and King Christian Land appeared as a low line of blue. About us +the ice was small but free of pressure troubles. Bear tracks were +frequently seen as we went along. The sea was bright. The air was +delightfully warm, with the thermometer at 10° above zero. + +At every stop, the panting dogs tumbled and rolled playfully on the +snows, and pushed their heated muzzles deep into the white chill. If +given time they would quickly arrange a comfortable bed and stretch out, +seemingly lifeless, for a refreshing slumber. At the awakening call of +the lash, all were ready with a quick jump and a daring snarl, but the +need of a tight trace removed their newly-acquired fighting propensity. +They had gained strength and spirit with remarkable rapidity. Only two +days before, they stumbled along with irregular step, slack traces, and +lowered tails, but the fill of juicy bear's meat raised their bushy +appendages to a coil of pride--an advantage which counted for several +miles in a day's travel. + +The drift carried us into Penny Strait, midway between Bathurst Land and +Grinnell Peninsula. The small islands along both shores tore up the ice +and piled it in huge uplifts. There was a tremendous pressure as the +floes were forced through narrow gorges. Only a middle course was +possible for us, with but a few miles' travel to our credit for each +day. But the southerly movement of the groaning ice was rapid. A +persistent fog veiled the main coast on both sides, but off-lying +islands were seen and recognized often enough to note the positions. At +Dundas Island the drift was stopped, and we sought the shores of +Grinnell Peninsula. Advancing eastward, close to land, the ice proved +extremely difficult. The weather, however, was delightful. Between +snowdrifts, purple and violet flowers rose over warm beds of newly +invigorated mosses--the first flowers that we had seen for a long and +weary time, and the sight of them, with their blossoms and color, +deeply thrilled me. From misty heights came the howl of the white wolf. +Everywhere were seen the traces of the fox and the lemming. The +eider-duck and the ivory gull had entered our horizon. + +All nature smiled with the cheer of midsummer. Here was an inspiring +fairyland for which our hearts had long yearned. In it there was music +which the long stiffened tympanums were slow in catching. The land was +an oasis of hardy verdure. The sea was a shifting scene of frost and +blue glitter. With the soul freed from its icy fetters, the soft, sunny +airs came in bounds of gladness. In dreamy stillness we sought the bosom +of the frozen sea, and there heard the groan of the pack which told of +home shores. Drops of water from melting snows put an end to thirst +tortures. The blow of the whales and the seals promised a luxury of fire +and fuel, while the low notes of the ducks prepared the palate for +dessert. + +As we neared a little moss-covered island in drifting southward, we saw +the interesting chick footprints of ptarmigan in the snow. The dogs +pointed their ears and raised their noses, and we searched the clearing +skies with eye and ear for the sudden swoop of the boreal chicken. I had +developed a taste for this delicate fowl as desperate as that of the +darky for chicken, and my conscience was sufficiently deadened by cold +and hunger to break into a roost by night or day to steal anything that +offered feathery delights for the palate. + +I was courting gastric desire, but the ptarmigan was engaged in another +kind of courtship. Two singing capons were cooing notes of love to a shy +chick, and they suddenly decided that there was not room for two, +whereupon a battle ensued with a storm of wings and much darting of +bills. In this excitement they got into an ice crevasse, where they +might have become easy victims without the use of ammunition. But, with +empty stomachs, there is also at times a heart-hunger, which pleases a +higher sense and closes the eye to gastric wants. + +Later in the same day, we saw at a great distance what seemed like two +men in motion. We hastened to meet them with social anticipations. Now +they seemed tall--now mere dots on the horizon. I thought this due to +their movement over ice irregularities. But boreal optics play havoc +with the eye and the sense of perspective. As we rose suddenly on a +hummock, where we had a clearer view, the objects rose on wings! They +were ravens which had been enlarged and reduced by reflecting and +refracting surfaces and a changing atmosphere, in much the same +manner as a curved mirror makes a caricature of one's self. I +laughed--bitterly. Dazed, bewildered, there was nevertheless for me a +joy in seeing these living creatures, denizens of the land toward which +we were directed. + +The bears no longer sought our camp, but the seals were conveniently +scattered along our track. A kindly world had spread our waistbands to +fairly normal dimensions. The palate began to exercise its +discriminating force. Ducks and land animals were sought with greater +eagerness. While in this mood, three white caribou were secured. They +were beautiful creatures, and as pleasing to the palate as to the eye, +but owing to the very rough ice it was quite impossible to carry more +than a few days' supply. Usually we took only the choice parts of the +game, but every eatable morsel of caribou that we could carry was +packed on the sledges. + +With this wealth of food and fuel we moved along the shores of +Wellington Channel to Pioneer Bay. We felt that we were steadily on our +way homeward. There was no premonition of the keen disappointment that +awaited us, of the inevitable imprisonment for the long Arctic winter +and the days of starvation that were to come. + +[Illustration: PTARMIGAN CHICKS] + + + + +OVERLAND TO JONES SOUND + +HOURS OF ICY TORTURE--A FRIGID SUMMER STORM IN THE BERG-DRIVEN ARCTIC +SEA--A PERILOUS DASH THROUGH TWISTING LANES OF OPEN WATER IN A CANVAS +CANOE--THE DRIVE OF HUNGER. + +XXIII + +ADRIFT ON AN ICEBERG + + +As we neared Pioneer Bay, along the coast of North Devon, it became +quite evident that farther advance by sledge was quite impossible. A +persistent southerly wind had packed the channel with a jam of small +ice, over which the effort of sledging was a hopeless task. The season +was too far advanced to offer the advantage of an ice-foot on the shore +line. There was no open water, nor any game to supply our larder. The +caribou was mostly used. We began to feel the craving pain of short +rations. + +Although the distance to Lancaster Sound was short, land travel was +impossible, and, with no food, we could not await the drift of the ice. +The uncertainty of game was serious, with nothing as a reserve to await +the dubious coming of a ship. If game should appear, we might remain on +the ice, accumulating in the meantime a supply of meat for travel by +canvas boat later. + +This boat had been our hope in moving south, but thus far had not been +of service. Forced to subsist mainly on birds, the ammunition rapidly +diminished, and something had to be done at once to prevent famine. + +We might have returned to the game haunts of Grinnell Peninsula, but it +seemed more prudent to cross the land to Jones Sound. Here, from +Sverdrup's experience, we had reason to expect abundant game. By moving +eastward there would be afforded the alternative of pushing northward if +we failed to get to the whalers. The temperature now remained steadily +near the freezing point, and with the first days of July the barometer +became unsteady. + +On the 4th of July we began the climb of the highlands of North Devon, +winding about Devonian cliffs toward the land of promise beyond. The +morning was gray, as it had been for several days, but before noon black +clouds swept the snowy heights and poured icy waters over us. We were +saturated to the skin, and shivered in the chill of the high altitude. +Soon afterwards a light breath-taking wind from the northwest froze our +pasty furs into sheets of ice. Still later, a heavy fall of snow +compelled us to camp. The snowstorm continued for two days, and held us +in a snow-buried tent, with little food and no fuel. + +Although the storm occasioned a good deal of suffering, it also brought +some advantages. The land had been imperfectly covered with snow, and we +had been forced to drive from bank to bank, over bared ground, to find a +workable course. But now all was well sheeted with crusted snow. Soon +the gaunt, dun-colored cliffs of North Devon ended the monotony of +interior snows, and beyond was seen the cheering blue of Jones Sound. + +Much open water extended along the north shore to beyond Musk Ox Fiord. +The southern shores were walled with pack-ice for a hundred miles or +more. In bright, cold weather we made a descent to Eidsbotn on July 7th. +Here a diligent search for food failed. Daily the howl of wolves and the +cry of birds came as a response to our calling stomachs. A scant supply +of ducks was secured for the men with an expenditure of some of the last +rifle ammunition, but no walruses, no seals, and no other big game were +seen. To secure dog food seemed quite hopeless. + +We now had the saddest incident of a long run of trouble. Open water ran +the range of vision, sledges were no longer possible, game was scarce, +our ammunition was nearly exhausted. Our future fate had to be worked +out in a canvas boat. What were we to do with the faithful dog +survivors? In the little boat they could not go with us. We could not +stay with them and live. We must part. Two had already left us to join +their wolf progenitors. We gave the others the same liberty. One sledge +was cut off and put into the canvas boat which we had carried to the +Pole and back. Our sleeping-bags and old winter clothing were given as +food to the dogs. All else was snugly packed in waterproof packages as +well as possible, and placed in the boat. With sad eyes, we left the +shore. The dogs howled like crying children; we still heard them when +five miles off shore. + +Off Cape Vera there was open water, and beyond, as far eastward as we +could see, its quivering surface offered a restful prospect. As we +advanced, however, the weather proved treacherous, and the seas rose +with sudden and disagreeable thumps. + +At times we camped on ice islands in the pack, but the pack-ice soon +became too insecure, being composed of small pieces, and weakened in +spots by the sun. Even a moderate gale would tear a pack apart, to be +broken into smaller fragments by the water. Sometimes we made camp in +the boat, with a box for a pillow and a piece of bear skin for a cover. + +With great anxiety we pulled to reach the land at Cape Sparbo before a +storm entrapped us. To the north, the water was free of ice as far as +the shores of Ellesmere Land, forty miles away. To avoid the glare of +the midday sun, we chose to travel by night, but we were nearing the end +of the season of Arctic double-days and midnight suns, when the winds +come suddenly and often. + +Soon after midnight the wind from the Pacific came in short puffs, with +periods of calm so sudden that we looked about each time for something +to happen. At about the same time there came long swells from the +northwest. We scented a storm, although at that time there were no other +signs. The ice was examined for a possible line of retreat to the land, +but, with pressure ridges, hummocks and breaks, I knew this was +impossible. It was equally hopeless to camp on such treacherous ice. +Berg ice had been passed the day before, but this was about as far +behind as the land was ahead. + +So we pulled along desperately, while the swells shortened and rose. The +atmosphere became thick and steel gray. The cliffs of Ellesmere Land +faded, while lively clouds tumbled from the highlands to the sea. + +We were left no alternative but to seek the shelter of the disrupted +pack, and press landward as best we could. We had hardly landed on the +ice, and drawn our boat after us, when the wind struck us with such +force that we could hardly stand against it. The ice immediately started +in a westward direction, veering off from the land a little and leaving +open leads. These leads, we now saw, were the only possible places of +safety. For, in them, the waters were easy, and the wind was slightly +shut off by the walls of pressure lines and hummocks. Furthermore, they +offered slants now and then by which we could approach the land. + +The sledge was set under the boat and lashed. All our things were lashed +to the wooden frame of the canoe to prevent the wind and the sea from +carrying them away. We crossed several small floes and jumped the lines +of water separating them, pulling sledge and canoe after us. The +pressure lines offered severe barriers. To cross them we were compelled +to separate the canoe from its sledge and remove the baggage. All of +this required considerable time. A sense of hopelessness filled my +heart. In the meantime, the wind veered to the east and came with a rush +that left us helpless. We sought the lee of a hummock, and hoped the +violence of the storm would soon spend itself, but there were no easy +spells in this storm, nor did it show signs of early cessation. The ice +about us moved rapidly westward and slowly seaward. + +It was no longer possible to press toward the land, for the leads of +water were too wide and were lined with small whitecaps, while the +tossing seas hurled mountains of ice and foaming water over the pack +edge. + +The entire pack was rising and falling under faint swells, and gradually +wearing to little fragments. The floe on which we stood was strong. I +knew it would hold out longer than most of the ice about, but it was not +high enough above water to give us a dry footing as the seas advanced. + +From a distance to the windward we noted a low iceberg slowly gaining on +our floe. It was a welcome sight, for it alone could raise us high +enough above the soul-despairing rush of the icy water. + +Its rich ultramarine blue promised ice of a sufficient strength to +withstand the battling of the storm. Never were men on a sinking ship +more anxious to reach a rock than we were to reach this blue stage of +ice. It offered several little shelves, upon which we could rise out of +the water upon the ice. We watched with anxious eyes as the berg +revolved and forced the other ice aside. + +It aimed almost directly for us, and would probably cut our floe. We +prepared for a quick leap upon the deck of our prospective craft. + +Bearing down upon us it touched a neighboring piece and pushed us away. +We quickly pulled to the other pan, and then found, to our dismay, a +wide band of mushy slush, as impossible to us for a footing as quicksand +would have been. As the berg passed, however, it left a line of water +behind it. We quickly threw boat and sledge into this, paddled after the +berg, and, reaching it, leaped to its security. What a relief to be +raised above the crumbling pack-ice and to watch from safety the +thundering of the elements! + +The berg which we had boarded was square, with rounded corners. Its +highest points were about twenty feet above water; the general level was +about ten feet. The ice was about eighty feet thick, and its width was +about a hundred feet. These dimensions assured stability, for if the +thing had turned over, as bergs frequently do, we should be left to seek +breath among the whales. + +It was an old remnant of a much larger berg which had stood the Arctic +tempest for many years. This we figured out from the hard blue of the +ice and its many caverns and pinnacles. We were, therefore, on a secure +mass of crystal which was not likely to suffer severely from a single +storm. Its upper configuration, however, though beautiful in its +countless shades of blue, did not offer a comfortable berth. There were +three pinnacles too slippery and too steep to climb, with a slope +leading by a gradual incline on each side. Along these the seas had worn +grooves leading to a central concavity filled with water. The only space +which we could occupy was the crater-like rim around this lake. At this +time we had to endure only the seething pitch of the sea and the cutting +blast of the storm. + +The small ice about kept the seas from boarding. To prevent our being +thrown about on the slippery surface, we cut holes into the pinnacles +and spread lines about them, to which we clung. The boat was securely +fastened in a similar way by cutting a makeshift for a ringbolt in the +floor of ice. Then we pushed from side to side along the lines, to +encourage our hearts and to force our circulation. Although the +temperature was only at the freezing point, it was bitterly cold, and we +were in a bad way to weather a storm. + +The sea had drenched us from head to foot. Only our shirts were dry. +With hands tightly gripped to the line and to crevasses, we received the +spray of the breaking icy seas while the berg ploughed the scattered +pack and plunged seaward. The cold, though only at the freezing point, +pierced our snow-pasted furs and brought shivers worse than that of +zero's lowest. Thus the hours of physical torture and mental anguish +passed, while the berg moved towards the gloomy black cliff of Hell +Gate. Here the eastern sky bleached and the south blued, but the falling +temperature froze our garments to coats of mail. We were still dressed +in part of our winter garments. + +The coat was of sealskin, with hood attached; the shirt of camel's hair +blanket, also with a hood; the trousers of bear fur; boots of seal, with +hair removed, and stockings of hare fur. The mittens were of seal, and +there were pads of grass for the palms and soles. Our garments, though +not waterproof, shed water and excluded the winds, but there is a cold +that comes with wet garments and strong winds that sets the teeth to +chattering and the skin to quivering. + +As all was snug and secure on the berg, we began to take a greater +interest in our wind and sea-propelled craft. Its exposed surface was +swept by the winds, while its submarine surface was pushed by tides and +undercurrents, giving it a complex movement at variance with the +pack-ice. It ploughed up miles of sea-ice, crushing and throwing it +aside. + +After several hours of this kind of navigation--which was easy for us, +because the movement of the swell and the breaking of the sea did not +inflict a hardship--the berg suddenly, without any apparent reason, +took a course at right angles to the wind, and deliberately pushed out +of the pack into the seething seas. This rapid shift from comfort to the +wild agitation of the black waters made us gasp. The seas, with boulders +of ice, rolled up over our crest and into the concavity of the berg, +leaving no part safe. Seizing our axes, we cut many other anchor holes +in the ice, doubly secured our life lines, and shifted with our boat to +the edge of the berg turned to the wind. The hours of suspense and +torment thus spent seemed as long as the winters of the Eskimo. The pack +soon became a mere pearly glow against a dirty sky. We were rushing +through a seething blackness, made more impressive by the pearl and blue +of the berg and the white, ice-lined crests. + +What could we do to keep the springs of life from snapping in such a +world of despair? Fortunately, we were kept too busy dodging the +storm-driven missiles of water and ice to ponder much over our fate. +Otherwise the mind could not have stood the infernal strain. + +Our bronze skins were adapted to cold and winds, but the torture of the +cold, drenching water was new. For five months we had been battered by +winds and cut by frosts, but water was secured only by melting ice with +precious fuel which we had carried thousands of miles. If we could get +enough of the costly liquid to wash our cold meals down, we had been +satisfied. The luxury of a face wash or a bath, except by the +wind-driven snows, was never indulged in. Now, in stress of danger, we +were getting it from every direction. The torments of frost about the +Pole were nothing compared to this boiling blackness. + +Twenty-four hours elapsed before there was any change. Such calls of +nature as hunger or thirst or sleep were left unanswered. We maintained +a terrific struggle to keep from being washed into the sea. At last the +east paled, the south became blue, and the land on both sides rose in +sight. The wind came steadily, but reduced in force, with a frosty edge +that hardened our garments to sheets of ice. + +We were not far from the twin channels, Cardigan Strait and Hell Gate, +where the waters of the Pacific and Atlantic meet. We were driving for +Cardigan Strait, past the fiords into which we had descended from the +western seas two weeks before. We had, therefore, lost an advance of two +weeks in one day, and we had probably lost our race with time to reach +the life-saving haunts of the Eskimo. + +Still, this line of thought was foreign to us. Not far away were bold +cliffs from which birds descended to the rushing waters. At the sight my +heart rose. Here we saw the satisfying prospect of an easy breakfast if +only the waves would cease to fold in white crests. Long trains of heavy +ice were rushing with railroad speed out of the straits. As we watched, +the temperature continued to fall. Soon the north blackened with +swirling curls of smoke. The wind came with the sound of exploding guns +from Hell Gate. What, I asked myself, was to be our fate now? + +We took a southwest course. Freezing seas washed over the berg and froze +our numbed feet to the ice, upon which a footing otherwise would have +been very difficult. Adrift in a vast, ice-driven, storm-thundering +ocean, I stood silent, paralyzed with terror. After a few hours, +sentinel floes of the pack slowly shoved toward us, and unresistingly, +we were ushered into the harboring influence of the heavy Polar ice. + +The berg lost its erratic movement, and soon settled in a fixed +position. The wind continued to tear along in a mad rage, but we found +shelter in our canoe, dozing away for a few moments while one paced the +ice as a sentinel. Slowly a lane of quiet water appeared among the +floes. We heard a strangely familiar sound which set our hearts +throbbing. The walrus and the seal, one by one, came up to the surface +to blow. Here, right before us, was big game, with plenty of meat and +fat. We were starving, but we gazed almost helplessly on plenty, for its +capture was difficult for us. + +We had only a few cartridges and four cans of pemmican in our baggage. +These were reserved for use to satisfy the last pangs of famine. That +time had not yet arrived. Made desperate by hunger, after a brief rest +we began to seek food. Birds flying from the land became our game at +this time. We could secure these with the slingshot made by the Eskimos, +and later, by entangling loops in lines, and in various other ways which +hunger taught us. + +A gull lighted on a pinnacle of our berg. Quietly but quickly we placed +a bait and set a looped line. We watched with bated breath. The bird +peered about, espied the luring bait, descended with a flutter of wings, +pecked the pemmican. There was a snapping sound--the bird was ours. +Leaping upon it, we rapidly cut it in bits and ravenously devoured it +raw. Few things I have ever eaten tasted so delicious as this meat, +which had the flavor of cod-liver oil. + +The ice soon jammed in a grinding pack against the land, and the wind +spent its force in vain. We held our position, and two of us, after +eating the bird, slept until the sentinel called us. At midnight the +wind eased and the ice started its usual rebound, seaward and eastward, +with the tide. + +This was our moment for escape. We were about ten miles off the shore of +Cape Vera. If we could push our canvas canoe through the channels of +water as they opened, we might reach land. We quickly prepared the boat. +With trepidation we pushed it into the black, frigid waters. We +hesitated to leave the sheltering berg which had saved our lives. Still, +it had served its purpose. To remain might mean our being carried out to +sea. The ultimate time had come to seek a more secure refuge on _terra +firma_. + +Leaping into the frail, rocking canoe, we pushed along desperately +through a few long channels to reach a wide, open space of water +landward. Paddling frantically, we made a twisting course through +opening lanes of water, ice on both sides of us, visible bergs bearing +down at times on us, invisible bergs with spear-points of ice beneath +the water in which our course lay. We sped forward at times with quick +darts. Suddenly, and to our horror, an invisible piece of ice jagged a +hole in the port quarter. Water gushed into the frail craft. In a few +minutes it would be filled; we should sink to an icy death! Fortunately, +I saw a floe was near, and while the canoe rapidly filled we pushed for +the floe, reaching it not a moment too soon. + +A boot was sacrificed to mend the canoe. Patching the cut, we put again +into the sea and proceeded. + +The middle pack of ice was separated from the land pack, leaving much +free water. But now a land breeze sprang up and gave us new troubles. We +could not face the wind and sea, so we took a slant and sought the lee +of the pans coming from the land. + +Our little overloaded canoe weathered the seas very well, and we had +nothing to gain and everything to lose by turning back. Again we were +drenched with spray, and the canoe was sheeted with ice above water. The +sun was passing over Hell Gate. Long blue shadows stretched over the +pearl-gray sea. By these, without resort to the compass, we knew it was +about midnight. + +As we neared the land-ice, birds became numerous. The waters rose in +easy swells. Still nearer, we noted that the entire body of land-ice was +drifting away. A convenient channel opened and gave us a chance to slip +behind. We pointed for Cape Vera, dashed over the water, and soon, to +our joy, landed on a ledge of lower rocks. I cannot describe the relief +I felt in reaching land after the spells of anguish through which we had +passed. Although these barren rocks offered neither food nor shelter, +still we were as happy as if a sentence of death had been remitted. + +Not far away were pools of ice water. These we sought first, to quench +our thirst. Then we scattered about, our eyes eagerly scrutinizing the +land for breakfast. Soon we saw a hare bounding over the rocks. As it +paused, cocking its ears, one of my boys secured it with a sling-shot. +It was succulent; we cut it with our knives. Some moss was found among +the rocks. This was a breakfast for a king. I returned to prepare it. +With the moss as fuel, we made a fire, put the dripping meat in a pot, +and, with gloating eyes, watched it simmering. I thrilled with the joy +of sheer living, with hunger about to be satisfied by cooked food. + +Before the hare was ready the boys came along with two eider-ducks, +which they had secured by looped lines. We therefore had now an advance +dinner, with a refreshing drink and a stomach full, and solid rocks to +place our heads upon for a long sleep. These solid rocks were more +delightful and secure than pillows of down. The world had indeed a new +aspect for us. In reality, however, our ultimate prospect of escape from +famine was darker than ever. + +[Illustration: ARCTIC HARE] + + + + +UNDER THE WHIP OF FAMINE + +BY BOAT AND SLEDGE, OVER THE DRIFTING ICE AND STORMY SEAS OF JONES +SOUND--FROM ROCK TO ROCK IN QUEST OF FOOD--MAKING NEW WEAPONS + +XXIV + +IMPRISONED BY THE HAND OF FROST + + +No time was lost in our onward course. Endeavoring at once to regain the +distance lost by the drifting berg, we sought a way along the shores. +Here, over ice with pools of water and slush, we dragged our sledge with +the canvas boat ever ready to launch. Frequent spaces of water +necessitated constant ferrying. We found, however, that most open places +could be crossed with sledge attached to the boat. This saved much time. + +We advanced from ten to fifteen miles daily, pitching the tent on land +or sleeping in the boat in pools of ice water, as the conditions +warranted. The land rose with vertical cliffs two thousand feet high, +and offered no life except a few gulls and guillemots. By gathering +these as we went along, a scant hand-to-mouth subsistence daily was +obtained. + +Early in August we reached the end of the land-pack, about twenty-five +miles east of Cape Sparbo. Beyond was a water sky, and to the north the +sea was entirely free of ice. The weather was clear, and our ambitions +for the freedom of the deep rose again. + +At the end of the last day of sledge travel, a camp was made on a small +island. Here we saw the first signs of Eskimo habitation. Old tent +circles, also stone and fox traps in abundance, indicated an ancient +village of considerable size. On the mainland we discovered abundant +grass and moss, with signs of musk ox, ptarmigan, and hare, but no +living thing was detected. After a careful search, the sledge was taken +apart to serve as a floor for the boat. All our things were snugly +packed. For breakfast, we had but one gull, which was divided without +the tedious process of cooking. + +As we were packing the things onto the edge of the ice, we espied an +oogzuk seal. Here was a creature which could satisfy for a while our +many needs. Upon it one of our last cartridges was expended. The seal +fell. The huge carcass was dragged ashore. All of its skin was jealously +taken. For this would make harpoon lines which would enable the shaping +of Eskimo implements, to take the place of the rifles, which, with +ammunition exhausted, would be useless. Our boots could also be patched +with bits of the skin, and new soles could be made. Of the immense +amount of oogzuk meat and blubber we were able to take only a small +part; for, with three men and our baggage and sledge in the little +canvas boat, it was already overloaded. + +The meat was cached, so that if ultimate want forced our retreat we +might here prolong our existence a few weeks longer. There was little +wind, and the night was beautifully clear. The sun at night was very +close to the horizon, but the sparkle of the shimmering waters gave our +dreary lives a bright side. On the great unpolished rocks of the point +east of Cape Sparbo a suitable camping spot was found, a prolonged feed +of seal was indulged in, and with a warm sun and full stomachs, the tent +was unnecessary. Under one of the rocks we found shelter, and slept with +savage delight for nine hours. + +Another search of the accessible land offered no game except ducks and +gulls far from shore. Here the tides and currents were very strong, so +our start had to be timed with the outgoing tide. + +Starting late one afternoon, we advanced rapidly beyond Cape Sparbo, in +a sea with an uncomfortable swell. But beyond the Cape, the land-ice +still offered an edge for a long distance. In making a cut across a +small bay to reach ice, a walrus suddenly came up behind the canoe and +drove a tusk through the canvas. E-tuk-i-shook quickly covered the cut, +while we pulled with full force for a pan of drift-ice only a few yards +away. The boat, with its load, was quickly jerked on the ice. Already +there were three inches of water in the floor. A chilly disaster was +narrowly averted. Part of a boot was sacrificed to mend the boat. + +While at work with the needle, a strong tidal current carried us out to +sea. An increasing wind brought breaking waves over the edge of the ice. +The wind fortunately gave a landward push to the ice. A sledge-cover, +used as a sail, retarded our seaward drift. The leak securely patched, +we pushed off for the land ice. With our eyes strained for breaking +seas, the boat was paddled along with considerable anxiety. Much water +was shipped in these dashes; constant bailing was necessary. Pulling +continuously along the ice for eight miles, and when the leads closed at +times, jumping on cakes and pulling the boat after us, we were finally +forced to seek a shelter on the ice-field. + +With a strong wind and a wet fall of snow, the ice-camp was far from +comfortable. As the tide changed, the wind came from the west with a +heavy, choppy sea. Further advance was impossible. Sleeping but a few +minutes at a time, and then rising to note coming dangers, as does the +seal, I perceived, to my growing dismay, a separation between the land +and the sea ice. We were going rapidly adrift, with only interrupted +spots of sea-ice on the horizon! + +There were a good many reefs about, which quickly broke the ice, and new +leads formed on every side. The boat was pushed landward. We pulled the +boat on the ice when the leads closed, lowering it again as the cracks +opened. By carrying the boat and its load from crack to crack, we at +last reached the land waters, in which we were able to advance about +five miles further, camping on the gravel of the first river which we +had seen. Here we were storm-bound for two days. + +There were several pools near by. Within a short distance from these +were many ducks. With the slingshot a few of these were secured. In the +midst of our trouble, with good appetites, we were feeding up for future +contests of strength. + +With a shore clear of ice, we could afford to take some chance with +heavy seas, so before the swell subsided, we pushed off. Coming out of +Braebugten Bay, with its discharging glaciers and many reefs, the water +dashed against the perpendicular walls of ice, and presented a +disheartening prospect. These reefs could be passed over only when the +sea was calm. With but a half-day's run to our credit, we were again +stopped. + +As we neared our objective point, on the fast ice inside of a reef, we +were greeted with the glad sight of what we supposed to be a herd of +musk ox. About three miles of the winter ice was still fast to the land. +Upon this we landed, cleared the canvas boat, and prepared to camp in +it. I remained to guard our few belongings, while the two Eskimo boys +rushed over the ice to try to secure the musk ox with the lance. It was +a critical time in our career, for we were putting to test new methods +of hunting, which we had partly devised after many hungry days of +preparation. + +I followed the boys with the glasses as they jumped the ice crevasses +and moved over the mainland with the stealth and ease of hungry wolves. +It was a beautiful day. The sun was low in the northwest, throwing beams +of golden light that made the ice a scene of joy. The great cliffs of +North Devon, fifteen miles away, seemed very near through the clear air. +Although enjoying the scene, I noted in the shadow of an iceberg a +suspicious blue spot, which moved in my direction. As it advanced in the +sunlight it changed from blue to a cream color. Then I made it out to be +a Polar bear which we had attacked forty-eight hours previous. + +The sight aroused a feeling of elation. Gradually, as bruin advanced and +I began to think of some method of defense, a cold shiver ran up my +spine. The dog and rifle, with which we had met bears before, were +absent. To run, and leave our last bit of food and fuel, would have been +as dangerous as to stay. A Polar bear will always attack a retreating +creature, while it approaches very cautiously one that holds its +position. Furthermore, for some reason, the bears always bore a grudge +against the boat. None ever passed it without testing the material with +its teeth or giving it a slap with its paw. At this critical stage of +our adventure the boat was linked more closely to our destiny than the +clothes we wore. I therefore decided to stay and play the rôle of the +aggressor, although I had nothing--not even a lance--with which to +fight. + +Then an idea flashed through my mind. I lashed a knife to the steering +paddle, and placed the boat on a slight elevation of ice, so as to make +it and myself appear as formidable as possible. Then I gathered about me +all the bits of wood, pieces of ice, and everything which I could throw +at the creature before it came to a close contest, reserving the knife +and the ice-ax as my last resort. When all was ready, I took my position +beside the boat and displayed a sledge-runner moving rapidly to and fro. + +The bear was then about two hundred yards away. It approached stealthily +behind a line of hummocks, with only its head occasionally visible. As +it came to within three hundred feet, it rose frequently on its hind +feet, dropped its forepaws, stretched its neck, and pushed its head up, +remaining motionless for several seconds. It then appeared huge and +beautiful. + +As it came still nearer, its pace quickened. I began to hurl my +missiles. Every time the bear was hit, it stopped, turned about, and +examined the object. But none of them proving palatable, it advanced to +the opposite side of the boat, and for a moment stood and eyed me. Its +nose caught the odor of a piece of oogzuk blubber a few feet beyond. I +raised the sledge-runner and brought it down with desperate force on the +brute's nose. It grunted, but quickly turned to retreat. I followed +until it was well on the run. + +Every time it turned to review the situation, I made a show of chasing +it. This always had the desired effect of hastening its departure. It +moved off, however, only a short distance, and then sat down, sniffed +the air, and watched my movements. As I turned to observe the boys' +doings, I saw them only a short distance away, edging upon the bear. +Their group of musk oxen had proved to be rocks, and they had early +noted my troubles and were hastening to enter the battle, creeping up +behind hummocks and pressure ridges. They got to within a few yards of +the brute, and then delivered their two lances at once, with lines +attached. The bear dropped, but quickly recovered and ran for the land. +He died from the wounds, for a month later we found his carcass on land, +placed near camp. + +For two days, with a continuation of bad luck, we advanced slowly. +Belcher Point was passed at midnight of the 7th of August, just as the +sun sank under the horizon for the first time. Beyond was a nameless +bay, in which numerous icebergs were stranded. The bend of the bay was +walled with great discharging glaciers. A heavy sea pitched our boat +like a leaf in a gale. But, by seeking the shelter of bergs and passing +inside of the drift, we managed to push to an island for camp. + +With moving glaciers on the land, and the sea storming and thundering, +sleep was impossible. Icebergs in great numbers followed us into the +bay, and later the storm-ground sea-ice filled the bay. On August 8, +following a line of water along shore, we started eastward. + +A strong wind on our backs, with quiet waters, sent the little boat +along at a swift pace. After a run of ten miles, a great quantity of +ice, coming from the east, filled the bay with small fragments and +ensnared us. + +Now the bay was jammed with a pack as difficult to travel over as +quicksand. We were hopelessly beset. The land was sought, but it offered +no shelter, no life, and no place flat enough to lie upon. We expected +that the ice would break. It did not; instead, new winter ice rapidly +formed. + +The setting sun brought the winter storms and premonitions of a long, +bitter night. Meanwhile we eked a meagre living by catching occasional +birds, which we devoured raw. + +Toward the end of August we pushed out on the ensnaring pack to a small +but solid floe. I counted on this to drift somewhere--any place beyond +the prison bars of the glaciers. Then we might move east or west to seek +food. Our last meat was used, and we maintained life only by an +occasional gull or guillemot. This floe drifted to and fro, and slowly +took us to Belcher Point, where we landed to determine our fate. To the +east, the entire horizon was lined with ice. Belcher Point was barren of +game and shelter. Further efforts for Baffin's Bay were hopeless. The +falling temperature, the rapidly forming young ice, and the setting sun +showed us that we had already gone too long without finding a winter +refuge. + +Our only possible chance to escape death from famine and frost was to +go back to Cape Sparbo and compel the walrus that ripped our boat to +give up his blubber, and then to seek our fortunes in the neighborhood. +This was the only reachable place that had looked like game country. +With empty stomachs, and on a heavy sea, we pushed westward to seek our +fate. The outlook was discouraging. + +During all our enforced imprisonment we were never allowed to forget +that the first duty in life was to provide for the stomach. Our muscles +rested, but the signals sent over the gastric nerve kept the gray matter +busy. + +We were near to the land where Franklin and his men starved. They had +ammunition. We had none. A similar fate loomed before us. We had seen +nothing to promise subsistence for the winter, but this cheerless +prospect did not interfere with such preparations as we could make for +the ultimate struggle. In our desperate straits we even planned to +attack bears, should we find any, without a gun. Life is never so sweet +as when its days seem numbered. + +The complete development of a new art of hunting, with suitable weapons, +was reserved for the dire needs of later adventures. The problem was +begun by this time. By an oversight, most of our Eskimo implements had +been left on the returning sledges from Svartevoeg. + +We were thus not only without ammunition, but also without harpoons and +lances. We fortunately had the material of which these could be made, +and the boys possessed the savage genius to shape a new set of weapons. +The slingshot and the looped line, which had served such a useful +purpose in securing birds, continued to be of prime importance. In the +sledge was excellent hickory, which was utilized in various ways. Of +this, bows and arrows could be made. Combined with the slingshot and the +looped line snares, the combination would make our warfare upon the +feathered creatures more effective. We counted upon a similar efficiency +with the same weapons in our hoped-for future attacks upon land animals. + +The wood of the sledge was further divided to make shafts for harpoons +and lances. Realizing that our ultimate return to Greenland, and to +friends, depended on the life of the sledge, the wood was used +sparingly. Furthermore, hickory lends itself to great economy. It bends +and twists, but seldom breaks in such a manner that it cannot be +repaired. We had not much of this precious fibre, but enough for the +time to serve our purpose. Along shore we had found musk ox horns and +fragments of whale bone. Out of these the points of both harpoon and +lance were made. A part of the sledge shoe was sacrificed to make metal +points for the weapons. The nails of the cooking-box served as rivets. +The seal skin, which we had secured a month earlier, was now carefully +divided and cut into suitable harpoon and lassoo lines. We hoped to use +this line to capture the bear and the musk ox. Our folding canvas boat +was somewhat strengthened by the leather from our old boots, and +additional bracing by the ever useful hickory of the sledge. Ready to +engage in battle with the smallest and the largest creatures that might +come within reach, we started west for Cape Sparbo. Death, on our +journey, never seemed so near. + +[Illustration: OBSERVATION DETERMINING THE POLE--PHOTOGRAPH FROM +ORIGINAL NOTE] + +[Illustration: BACK TO LAND AND TO LIFE--AWAKENED BY A WINGED +HARBINGER] + + + + +BEAR FIGHTS AND WALRUS BATTLES + +DANGEROUS ADVENTURES IN A CANVAS BOAT--ON THE VERGE OF STARVATION, A +MASSIVE BRUTE, WEIGHING THREE THOUSAND POUNDS, IS CAPTURED AFTER A +FIFTEEN-HOUR STRUGGLE--ROBBED OF PRECIOUS FOOD BY HUNGRY BEARS + +XXV + +GAME HAUNTS DISCOVERED + + +The stormy sea rose with heavy swells. Oceanward, the waves leaped +against the horizon tumultuously. Pursuing our vain search for food +along the southern side of Jones Sound, early in September, we had been +obliged to skirt rocky coves and shelves of land on which we might seek +shelter should harm come to the fragile craft in which we braved the +ocean storms and the spears of unseen ice beneath water. + +We had shaped crude weapons. We were prepared to attack game. We were +starving; yet land and sea had been barren of any living thing. + +Our situation was desperate. In our course it was often necessary, as +now, to paddle from the near refuge of low-lying shores, and to pass +precipitous cliffs and leaping glaciers which stepped threateningly into +the sea. Along these were no projecting surfaces, and we passed them +always with bated anxiety. A sudden storm or a mishap at such a time +would have meant death in the frigid sea. And now, grim and suffering +with hunger, we clung madly to life. + +Passing a glacier which rose hundreds of feet out of the green sea, +heavy waves rolled furiously from the distant ocean. Huge bergs rose and +fell against the far-away horizon like Titan ships hurled to +destruction. The waves dashed against the emerald walls of the smooth +icy Gibraltar with a thunderous noise. We rose and fell in the frail +canvas boat, butting the waves, our hearts each time sinking. + +Suddenly something white and glittering pierced the bottom of the boat! +It was the tusk of a walrus, gleaming and dangerous. Before we could +grasp the situation he had disappeared, and water gushed into our craft. +It was the first walrus we had seen for several weeks. An impulse, mad +under the circumstances, rose in our hearts to give him chase. It was +the instinctive call of the hungering body for food. But each second the +water rose higher; each minute was imminent with danger. Instinctively +Ah-we-lah pressed to the floor of the boat and jammed his knee into the +hole, thus partly shutting off the jetting, leaping inrush. He looked +mutely to me for orders. The glacier offered no stopping place. Looking +about with mad eagerness, I saw, seaward, only a few hundred yards away, +a small pan of drift-ice. With the desire for life in our arms, we +pushed toward it with all our might. Before the boat was pulled to its +slippery landing, several inches of water flooded the bottom. Once upon +it, leaping in the waves, we breathed with panting relief. With a piece +of boot the hole was patched. Although we should have preferred to wait +to give the walrus a wide berth, the increasing swell of the stormy sea, +and a seaward drift forced us away from the dangerous ice cliffs. + +Launching the boat into the rough waters, we pulled for land. A triangle +of four miles had to be made before our fears could be set at rest. A +school of walrus followed us in the rocking waters for at least half of +the distance. Finally, upon the crest of a white-capped wave, we were +lifted to firm land. Drawing the boat after us, we ran out of reach of +the hungry waves, and sank to the grass, desperate, despairing, utterly +fatigued, but safe. + +Now followed a long run of famine luck. We searched land and sea for a +bird or a fish. In the boat we skirted a barren coast, sleeping on rocks +without shelter and quenching our thirst by glacial liquid till the +stomach collapsed. The indifferent stage of starvation was at hand when +we pulled into a nameless bay, carried the boat on a grassy bench, and +packed ourselves in it for a sleep that might be our last. + +We were awakened by the glad sound of distant walrus calls. Through the +glasses, a group was located far off shore, on the middle pack. Our +hearts began to thump. A stream of blood came with a rush to our heads. +Our bodies were fired with a life that had been foreign to us for many +moons. No famished wolf ever responded to a call more rapidly than we +did. Quickly we dropped the boat into the water with the implements, and +pushed from the famine shores with teeth set for red meat. + +The day was beautiful, and the sun from the west poured a wealth of +golden light. Only an occasional ripple disturbed the glassy blue +through which the boat crept. The pack was about five miles northward. +In our eagerness to reach it, the distance seemed spread to leagues. +There was not a square of ice for miles about which could have been +sought for refuge in case of an attack. But this did not disturb us now. +We were blinded to everything except the dictates of our palates. + +As we advanced, our tactics were definitely arranged. The animals were +on a low pan, which seemed to be loosely run into the main pack. We +aimed for a little cut of ice open to the leeward, where we hoped to +land and creep up behind hummocks. The splash of our paddles was lost in +the noise of the grinding ice and the bellowing of walrus calls. + +So excited were the Eskimos that they could hardly pull an oar. It was +the first shout of the wilderness which we had heard in many months. We +were lean enough to appreciate its import. The boat finally shot up on +the ice, and we scattered among the ice blocks for favorable positions. +Everything was in our favor. We did not for a moment entertain a thought +of failure, although in reality, with the implements at hand, our +project was tantamount to attacking an elephant with pocket knives. + +We came together behind an unusually high icy spire only a few hundred +yards from the herd. Ten huge animals were lazily stretched out in the +warm sun. A few lively babies tormented their sleeping mothers. There +was a splendid line of hummocks, behind which we could advance under +cover. With a firm grip on harpoon and line, we started. Suddenly +E-tuk-i-shook shouted "_Nannook_!" (Bear.) + +We halted. Our implements were no match for a bear. But we were too +hungry to retreat. The bear paid no attention to us. His nose was set +for something more to his liking. Slowly but deliberately, he crept up +to the snoring herd while we watched with a mad, envious anger welling +up within us. Our position was helpless. His long neck reached out, the +glistening fangs closed, and a young walrus struggled in the air. All of +the creatures woke, but too late to give battle. With dismay and rage, +the walruses sank into the water, and the bear slunk off to a safe +distance, where he sat down to a comfortable meal. We were not of +sufficient importance to interest either the bear or the disturbed herd +of giants. + +Our limbs were limp when we returned to the boat. The sunny glitter of +the waters was now darkened by the gloom of danger from enraged animals. +We crossed to the barren shores in a circuitous route, where pieces of +ice for refuge were always within reach. + +On land, the night was cheerless and cold. We were not in a mood for +sleep. In a lagoon we discovered moving things. After a little study of +their vague darts they proved to be fish. A diligent search under stones +brought out a few handfuls of tiny finny creatures. With gratitude I saw +that here was an evening meal. Seizing them, we ate the wriggling things +raw. Cooking was impossible, for we had neither oil nor wood. + +On the next day the sun at noon burned with a real fire--not the sham +light without heat which had kept day and night in perpetual glitter for +several weeks. Not a breath of air disturbed the blue glitter of the +sea. Ice was scattered everywhere. The central pack was farther away, +but on it rested several suspicious black marks. Through the glasses we +made these out to be groups of walruses. They were evidently sound +asleep, for we heard no calls. They were also so distributed that there +was a hunt both for bear and man without interference. + +We ventured out with a savage desire sharpened by a taste of raw fish. +As we advanced, several other groups were noted in the water. They gave +us much trouble. They did not seem ill-tempered, but dangerously +inquisitive. Our boat was dark in color and not much larger than the +body of a full-sized bull. To them, I presume, it resembled a companion +in distress or asleep. A sight of the boat challenged their curiosity, +and they neared us with the playful intention of testing with their +tusks the hardness of the canvas. We had experienced such love taps +before, however, with but a narrow escape from drowning, and we had no +desire for further walrus courtship. + +Fortunately, we could maintain a speed almost equal to theirs, and we +also found scattered ice-pans, about which we could linger while their +curiosity was being satisfied by the splash of an occasional stone. + +From an iceberg we studied the various groups of walruses for the one +best situated for our primitive methods of attack. We also searched for +meddlesome bears. None was detected. Altogether we counted more than a +hundred grunting, snorting creatures arranged in black hills along a +line of low ice. There were no hummocks or pressure lifts, under cover +of which we might advance to within the short range required for our +harpoons. All of the walrus-encumbered pans were adrift and +disconnected from the main pack. Conflicting currents gave each group a +slightly different motion. We studied this movement for a little while. + +We hoped, if possible, to make our attack from the ice. With the +security of a solid footing, there was no danger and there was a greater +certainty of success. But the speed of the ice on this day did not +permit such an advantage. We must risk a water attack. This is not an +unusual method of the Eskimo, but he follows it with a kayak, a harpoon +and line fitted with a float and a drag for the end of his line. Our +equipment was only a makeshift, and could not be handled in the same +way. + +Here was food in massive heaps. We had had no breakfast and no full meal +for many weeks. Something must be done. The general drift was eastward, +but the walrus pans drifted slightly faster than the main pack. Along +the pack were several high points, projecting a considerable distance +seaward. We took our position in the canvas boat behind one of these +floating capes, and awaited the drift of the sleeping monsters. + +Their movement was slow enough to give us plenty of time to arrange our +battle tactics. The most vital part of the equipment was the line. If it +were lost, we could not hope to survive the winter. It could not be +replaced, and without it we could not hope to cope with the life of the +sea, or even that of the land. The line was a new, strong sealskin +rawhide of ample length, which had been reserved for just such an +emergency. Attached to the harpoon, with the float properly adjusted, it +is seldom lost, for the float moves and permits no sudden strain. + +To safeguard the line, a pan was selected only a few yards in diameter. +This was arranged to do the duty of a float and a drag. With the knife +two holes were cut, and into these the line was fastened near its +center. The harpoon end was taken into the boat, the other end was +coiled and left in a position where it could be easily picked from the +boat later. Three important purposes were secured by this +arrangement--the line was relieved of a sudden strain; if it broke, only +half would be lost; and the unused end would serve as a binder to other +ice when the chase neared its end. + +Now the harpoon was set to the shaft, and the bow of our little +twelve-foot boat cleared for action. Peeping over the wall of ice, we +saw the black-littered pans slowly coming toward us. Our excitement rose +to a shouting point. But our nerves were under the discipline of famine. +The pan, it was evident, would go by us at a distance of about fifty +feet. + +The first group of walruses were allowed to pass. They proved to be a +herd of twenty-one mammoth creatures, and, entirely aside from the +danger of attack, their unanimous plunge would have raised a sea that +must have swamped us. + +On the next pan were but three spots. At a distance we persuaded +ourselves that they were small--for we had no ambition for formidable +attacks. One thousand pounds of meat would have been sufficient for us. +They proved, however, to be the largest bulls of the lot. As they neared +the point, the hickory oars of the boat were gripped--and out we shot. +They all rose to meet us, displaying the glitter of ivory tusks from +little heads against huge wrinkled necks. They grunted and snorted +viciously--but the speed of the boat did not slacken. E-tuk-i-shook +rose. With a savage thrust he sank the harpoon into a yielding neck. + +The walruses tumbled over themselves and sank into the water on the +opposite side of the pan. We pushed upon the vacated floe without +leaving the boat, taking the risk of ice puncture rather than walrus +thumps. The short line came up with a snap. The ice pan began to plough +the sea. It moved landward. What luck! I wondered if the walrus would +tow us and its own carcass ashore. We longed to encourage the homing +movement, but we dared not venture out. Other animals had awakened to +the battle call, and now the sea began to seethe and boil with enraged, +leaping red-eyed monsters. + +The float took a zigzag course in the offing. We watched the movement +with a good deal of anxiety. Our next meal and our last grip on life +were at stake. For the time being nothing could be done. + +The three animals remained together, two pushing the wounded one along +and holding it up during breathing spells. In their excitement they +either lost their bearings or deliberately determined to attack. Now +three ugly snouts pointed at us. This was greatly to our advantage, for +on ice we were masters of the situation. + +Taking inconspicuous positions, we awaited the assault. The Eskimos had +lances, I an Alpine axe. The walruses dove and came on like torpedo +boats, rising almost under our noses, with a noise that made us dodge. +In a second two lances sank into the harpooned strugglers. The water was +thrashed. Down again went the three. The lances were jerked back by +return lines, and in another moment we were ready for another assault +from the other side. But they dashed on, and pulled the float-floe, on +which we had been, against the one on which we stood, with a crushing +blow. + +Here was our first chance to secure the unused end of the line, fastened +on the other floe. Ah-we-lah jumped to the floe and tossed me the line. +The spiked shaft of the ice-axe was driven in the ice and the line fixed +to it, so now the two floes were held together. Our stage of action was +enlarged, and we had the advantage of being towed by the animals we +fought. + +Here was the quiet sport of the fisherman and the savage excitement of +the battle-field run together in a new chase. The struggle was prolonged +in successive stages. Time passed swiftly. In six hours, during which +the sun had swept a quarter of the circle, the twin floes were jerked +through the water with the rush of a gunboat. The jerking line attached +to our enraged pilots sent a thrill of life which made our hearts jump. +The lances were thrown, the line was shortened, a cannonade of ice +blocks was kept up, but the animal gave no signs of weakening. Seeing +that we could not inflict dangerous wounds, our tactics were changed to +a kind of siege, and we aimed not to permit the animal its breathing +spells. + +The line did not begin to slacken until midnight. The battle had been on +for almost twelve hours. But we did not feel the strain of action, nor +did our chronic hunger seriously disturb us. Bits of ice quenched our +thirst and the chill of night kept us from sweating. With each rise of +the beast for breath now, the line slackened. Gently it was hauled in +and secured. Then a rain of ice blocks, hurled in rapid succession, +drove the spouting animals down. Soon the line was short enough to +deliver the lance in the captured walrus at close range. The wounded +animal was now less troublesome, but the others tore about under us like +submarine boats, and at the most unexpected moments would shoot up with +a wild rush. + +We did not attempt to attack them, however. All our attention was +directed to the end of the line. The lance was driven with every +opportunity. It seldom missed, but the action was more like spurs to a +horse, changing an intended attack upon us to a desperate plunge into +the deep, and depriving the walrus of oxygen. + +Finally, after a series of spasmodic encounters which lasted fifteen +hours, the enraged snout turned blue, the fiery eyes blackened, and +victory was ours--not as the result of the knife alone, not in a square +fight of brute force, but by the superior cunning of the human animal +under the stimulus of hunger. + +During all this time we had been drifting. Now, as the battle ended, we +were not far from a point about three miles south of our camp. Plenty of +safe pack-ice was near. A primitive pulley was arranged by passing the +line through slits in the walrus' nose and holes in the ice. The great +carcass, weighing perhaps three thousand pounds, was drawn onto the ice +and divided into portable pieces. Before the sun poured its morning +beams over the ice, all had been securely taken ashore. + +With ample blubber, a camp fire was now made between two rocks by using +moss to serve as a wick. Soon, pot after pot of savory meat was +voraciously consumed. We ate with a mad, vulgar, insatiable hunger. We +spoke little. Between gulps, the huge heap of meat and blubber was +cached under heavy rocks, and secured--so we thought--from bears, wolves +and foxes. + +When eating was no longer possible, sleeping dens were arranged in the +little boat, and in it, like other gluttonous animals after an +engorgement, we closed our eyes to a digestive sleep. For the time, at +least, we had fathomed the depths of gastronomic content, and were at +ease with ourselves and with a bitter world of inhuman strife. + +At the end of about fifteen hours, a stir about our camp suddenly awoke +us. We saw a huge bear nosing about our fireplace. We had left there a +walrus joint, weighing about one hundred pounds, for our next meal. We +jumped up, all of us, at once, shouting and making a pretended rush. The +bear took up the meat in his forepaws and walked off, man-like, on two +legs, with a threatening grunt. His movement was slow and cautious, and +his grip on the meat was secure. Occasionally he veered about, with a +beckoning turn of the head, and a challenging call. But we did not +accept the challenge. After moving away about three hundred yards on the +sea-ice, he calmly sat down and devoured our prospective meal. + +With lances, bows, arrows, and stones in hand, we next crossed a low +hill, beyond which was located our precious cache of meat. Here, to our +chagrin, we saw two other bears, with heads down and paws busily digging +about the cache. We were not fitted for a hand-to-hand encounter. Still, +our lives were equally at stake, whether we attacked or failed to +attack. Some defense must be made. With a shout and a fiendish rush, we +attracted the busy brutes' attention. They raised their heads, turned, +and to our delight and relief, grudgingly walked off seaward on the +moving ice. Each had a big piece of our meat with him. + +Advancing to the cache, we found it absolutely depleted. Many other +bears had been there. The snow and the sand was trampled down with +innumerable bear tracks. Our splendid cache of the day previous was +entirely lost. We could have wept with rage and disappointment. One +thing we were made to realize, and that was that life here was now to be +a struggle with the bears for supremacy. With little ammunition, we were +not at all able to engage in bear fights. So, baffled, and unable to +resent our robbery, starvation again confronting us, we packed our few +belongings and moved westward over Braebugten Bay to Cape Sparbo. + +[Illustration: A THIEF OF THE NORTH] + + + + +BULL FIGHTS WITH THE MUSK OX + +AN ANCIENT CAVE EXPLORED FOR SHELTER--DEATH BY STARVATION AVERTED +BY HAND-TO-HAND ENCOUNTERS WITH WILD ANIMALS + +XXVI + +TO THE WINTER CAMP AT CAPE SPARBO + + +As we crossed the big bay to the east of Cape Sparbo, our eyes were +fixed on the two huge Archæn rocks which made remarkable landmarks, +rising suddenly to an altitude of about eighteen thousand feet. They +appear like two mountainous islands lifted out of the water. On closer +approach, however, we found the islands connected with the mainland by +low grassy plains, forming a peninsula. The grassy lands seemed like +promising grounds for caribou and musk ox. The off-lying sea, we also +found, was shallow. In this, I calculated, would be food to attract the +seal and walrus. + +In our slow movement over the land swell of the crystal waters, it did +not take long to discover that our conjecture was correct. + +Pulling up to a great herd of walrus, we prepared for battle. But the +sea suddenly rose, the wind increased, and we were forced to abandon the +chase and seek shelter on the nearest land. + +We reached Cape Sparbo, on the shores of Jones Sound, early in +September. Our dogs were gone. Our ammunition, except four cartridges +which I had secreted for use in a last emergency, was gone. Our +equipment consisted of a half sledge, a canvas boat, a torn silk tent, a +few camp kettles, tin plates, knives, and matches. Our clothing was +splitting to shreds. + +Cape Sparbo, with its huge walls of granite, was to the leeward. A +little bay was noted where we might gain the rocks in quiet water. Above +the rocks was a small green patch where we hoped to find a soft resting +place for the boat, so that we might place our furs in it and secure +shelter from the bitter wind. + +When we landed we found to our surprise that it was the site of an old +Eskimo village. There was a line of old igloos partly below water, +indicating a very ancient time of settlement, for since the departure of +the builders of these igloos the coast must have settled at least +fifteen feet. Above were a few other ruins. + +Shortly after arriving we sought an auspicious place, protected from the +wind and cold, where later we might build a winter shelter. Our search +disclosed a cave-like hole, part of which was dug from the earth, and +over which, with stones and bones, had been constructed a roof which now +was fallen in. + +The long winter was approaching. We were over three hundred miles from +Annoatok, and the coming of the long night made it necessary for us to +halt here. We must have food and clothing. We now came upon musk oxen +and tried to fell them with boulders, and bows and arrows made of the +hickory of our sledge. Day after day the pursuit was vainly followed. +Had it not been for occasional ducks caught with looped lines and sling +shots, we should have been absolutely without any food. + +By the middle of September, snow and frost came with such frequency that +we omitted hunting for a day to dig out the ruins in the cave and cut +sod before permanent frost made such work impossible. Bone implements +were shaped from skeletons found on shore for the digging. Blown drifts +of sand and gravel, with some moss and grass, were slowly removed from +the pit. We found under this, to our great joy, just the underground +arrangement which we desired; a raised platform, about six feet long and +eight feet wide with suitable wings for the lamp, and footspace, lay +ready for us. The pit had evidently been designed for a small family. +The walls, which were about two feet high, required little alteration. +Another foot was added, which leveled the structure with the ground. A +good deal of sod was cut and allowed to dry in the sun for use as a +roof. + +While engaged in taking out the stones and cleaning the dungeon-like +excavation, I suddenly experienced a heart-depressing chill when, +lifting some debris, I saw staring at me from the black earth a +hollow-eyed human skull. The message of death which the weird thing +leeringly conveyed was singularly unpleasant; the omen was not good. Yet +the fact that at this forsaken spot human hands had once built shelter, +or for this thing had constructed a grave, gave me a certain +companionable thrill. + +On the shore not far away we secured additional whale ribs and with +these made a framework for a roof. This was later constructed of moss +and blocks of sod. We built a rock wall about the shelter to protect +ourselves from storms and bears. Then our winter home was ready. Food +was now an immediate necessity. Game was found around us in abundance. +Most of it was large. On land there were bear and musk ox, in the sea +the walrus and the whale. But what could we do without either dogs or +rifles? + +The first weapon that we now devised was the bow and arrow, for with +this we could at least secure some small game. We had in our sledge +available hickory wood of the best quality, than which no wood could be +better; we had sinews and seal lashings for strings, but there was no +metal for tips. We tried bone, horn and ivory, but all proved +ineffective. + +One day, however, E-tuk-i-shook examined his pocket knife and suggested +taking the side blades for arrow tips. This was done, and the blade with +its spring was set in a bone handle. Two arrows were thus tipped. The +weapons complete, the Eskimo boys went out on the chase. They returned +in the course of a few hours with a hare and an eider-duck. Joy reigned +in camp as we divided the meat and disposed of it without the process of +cooking. + +A day later, two musk oxen were seen grazing along the moraine of a +wasting glacier. Now the musk ox is a peace-loving animal and avoids +strife, but when forced into fight it is one of the most desperate and +dangerous of all the fighters of the wilderness. It can and does give +the most fatal thrust of all the horned animals. No Spanish bull of the +pampas, no buffalo of the plains, has either the slant of horn or the +intelligence to gore its enemies as has this inoffensive-looking bull of +the ice world. The intelligence, indeed, is an important factor, for +after watching musk oxen for a time under varied conditions, one comes +to admire their almost human intellect as well as their superhuman power +of delivering self-made force. + +Our only means of attack was with the bow and arrow. The boys crept up +behind rocks until within a few yards of the unsuspecting creatures. +They bent the bows, and the arrows sped with the force and accuracy as +only a hungry savage can master. But the beasts' pelts were too strong. +The musk oxen jumped and faced their assailants. Each arrow, as it came, +was broken into splints by the feet and the teeth. + +When the arrows were all used a still more primitive weapon was tried, +for the sling shot was brought into use, with large stones. These +missiles the musk oxen took good naturedly, merely advancing a few steps +to a granite boulder, upon which they sharpened their horn points and +awaited further developments. No serious injury had been inflicted and +they made no effort to escape. + +Then came a change. When we started to give up the chase they turned +upon us with a fierce rush. Fortunately, many big boulders were about, +and we dodged around these with large stones in hand to deliver at close +range. In a wild rush a musk ox cannot easily turn, and so can readily +be dodged. Among the rocks two legs were better than four. The trick of +evading the musk ox I had learned from the dogs. It saved our lives. + +After a while the animals wearied, and we beat a hasty retreat, with new +lessons in our book of hunting adventures. The bow and arrow was +evidently not the weapon with which to secure musk oxen. + +The musk ox of Jones Sound, unlike his brother farther north, is every +ready for battle. He is often compelled to meet the bear and the wolf in +vicious contests, and his tactics are as thoroughly developed as his +emergencies require. Seldom does he fall the victim of his enemies. We +were a long time in learning completely his methods of warfare, and if, +in the meantime, we had not secured other game our fate would have been +unfortunate. + +Harpoons and lances were next finally completed, and with them we +hastened to retrieve our honor in the "ah-ming-ma" chase. For, after +all, the musk ox alone could supply our wants. Winter storms were coming +fast. We were not only without food and fuel, but without clothing. In +our desperate effort to get out of the regions of famine to the +Atlantic, we had left behind all our winter furs, including the sleeping +bags; and our summer garments were worn out. We required the fuel and +the sinew, the fat and the horn. + +One day we saw a herd of twenty-one musk oxen quietly grazing on a misty +meadow, like cattle on the western plains. It was a beautiful sight to +watch them, divided as they were into families and in small groups. The +males were in fur slightly brown, while the females and the young ones +were arrayed in magnificent black pelts. + +To get any of them seemed hopeless, but our appalling necessities forced +us onward. There were no boulders near, but each of us gathered an +armful of stones, the object being to make a sudden bombardment and +compel them to retreat in disorder and scatter among the rocks. + +We approached under cover of a small grassy hummock. When we were +detected, a bull gave a loud snort and rushed toward his nearest +companions, whereupon the entire herd gathered into a circle, with the +young in the center. + +We made our sham rush and hurled the stones. The oxen remained almost +motionless, with their heads down, giving little snorts and stamping a +little when hit, but quickly resuming their immobile position of +watchfulness. After our stones were exhausted, the animals began to +shift positions slightly. We interpreted this as a move for action. So +we gave up the effort and withdrew. + +The days were long and the nights still light enough to continue +operations as long as we could keep our eyes open. The whip of hunger +made rest impossible. So we determined to seek a less formidable group +of oxen in a position more favorable. The search was continued until the +sinking glimmer of the sun in the north marked the time of midnight--for +with us at that time the compass was the timepiece. + +When E-tuk-i-shook secured a hare with the bow and arrow, we ascended a +rocky eminence and sat down to appease the calling stomach without a +camp fire. From here we detected a family of four musk oxen asleep not +far from another group of rocks. + +This was a call to battle. We were not long in planning our tactics. The +wind was in our favor, permitting an attack from the side opposite the +rocks to which we aimed to force a retreat. We also found small stones +in abundance, these being now a necessary part of our armament. Our +first effort was based on the supposition of their remaining asleep. +They were simply chewing their cud, however, and rose to form a ring of +defence as we advanced. We stormed them with stones and they took to the +shelter of the rocks. We continued to advance slowly upon them, throwing +stones occasionally to obviate a possible assault from them before we +could also seek the shelter of the rocks. + +Besides the bow and arrow and the stones, we now had lances and these we +threw as they rushed to attack us. Two lances were crushed to small +fragments before they could be withdrawn by the light line attached. +They inflicted wounds, but not severe ones. + +Noting the immense strength of the animals, we at first thought it +imprudent to risk the harpoon with its precious line, for if we lost it +we could not replace it. But the destruction of the two lances left us +no alternative. + +Ah-we-lah threw the harpoon. It hit a rib, glanced to a rock, and was +also destroyed. Fortunately we had a duplicate point, which was quickly +fastened. Then we moved about to encourage another onslaught. + +Two came at once, an old bull and a young one. E-tuk-i-shook threw the +harpoon at the young one, and it entered. The line had previously been +fastened to a rock, and the animal ran back to its associates, +apparently not severely hurt, leaving the line slack. One of the others +immediately attacked the line with horns, hoofs and teeth, but did not +succeed in breaking it. + +Our problem now was to get rid of the other three while we dealt with +the one at the end of the line. Our only resource was a sudden fusilade +of stones. This proved effective. The three scattered and ascended the +boulder-strewn foreland of a cliff, where the oldest bull remained to +watch our movements. The young bull made violent efforts to escape but +the line of sealskin was strong and elastic. A lucky throw of a lance at +close range ended the strife. Then we advanced on the old bull, who was +alone in a good position for us. + +We gathered stones and advanced, throwing them at the creature's body. +This, we found, did not enrage him, but it prevented his making an +attack. As we gained ground he gradually backed up to the edge of the +cliff, snorting viciously but making no effort whatever either to escape +along a lateral bench or to attack. His big brown eyes were upon us; his +sharp horns were pointed at us. He evidently was planning a desperate +lunge and was backing to gain time and room, but each of us kept within +a few yards of a good-sized rock. + +Suddenly we made a combined rush into the open, hurling stones, and +keeping a long rock in a line for retreat. Our storming of stones had +the desired effect. The bull, annoyed and losing its presence of mind, +stepped impatiently one step too far backwards and fell suddenly over +the cliff, landing on a rocky ledge below. Looking over we saw he had +broken a fore leg. The cliff was not more than fifteen feet high. From +it the lance was used to put the poor creature out of suffering. We were +rich now and could afford to spread out our stomachs, contracted by long +spells of famine. The bull dressed about three hundred pounds of meat +and one hundred pounds of tallow. + +We took the tallow and as much meat as we could carry on our backs, and +started for the position of our prospective winter camp, ten miles away. +The meat left was carefully covered with heavy stones to protect it +from bears, wolves and foxes. On the following day we returned with the +canvas boat, making a landing about four miles from the battlefield. As +we neared the caches we found to our dismay numerous bear and fox +tracks. The bears had opened the caches and removed our hard-earned +game, while the foxes and the ravens had cleared up the very fragments +and destroyed even the skins. Here was cause for vengeance on the bear +and the fox. The fox paid his skin later, but the bear out-generaled us +in nearly every maneuvre. + +We came prepared to continue the chase but had abandoned the use of the +harpoon. Our main hope for fuel was the blubber of the walrus, and if +the harpoon should be destroyed or lost we could not hope to attack so +powerful a brute as a walrus with any other device. In landing we had +seen a small herd of musk oxen at some distance to the east, but they +got our wind and vanished. We decided to follow them up. One day we +found them among a series of rolling hills, where the receding glaciers +had left many erratic boulders. They lined up in their ring of defence +as usual when we were detected. There were seven of them; all large +creatures with huge horns. A bitter wind was blowing, driving some snow, +which made our task more difficult. + +The opening of the fight with stones was now a regular feature which we +never abandoned in our later development of the art, but the manner in +which we delivered the stones depended upon the effect which we wished +to produce. If we wished the musk oxen to retreat, we would make a +combined rush, hurling the stones at the herd. If we wished them to +remain in position and discourage their attack, we advanced slowly and +threw stones desultorily, more or less at random. If we wanted to +encourage attacks, one man advanced and delivered a large rock as best +he could at the head. This was cheap ammunition and it was very +effective. + +In this case the game was in a good position for us and we advanced +accordingly. They allowed us to take positions within about fifteen +feet, but no nearer. The lances were repeatedly tried without effect, +and after a while two of these were again broken. + +Having tried bow and arrow, stones, the lance and the harpoon, we now +tried another weapon. We threw the lasso--but not successfully, owing to +the bushy hair about the head and the roundness of the hump of the neck. +Then we tried to entangle their feet with slip loops just as we trapped +gulls. This also failed. We next extended the loop idea to the horns. +The bull's habit of rushing at things hurled at him caused us to think +of this plan. + +A large slip loop was now made in the center of the line, and the two +natives took up positions on opposite sides of the animal. They threw +the rope, with its loop, on the ground in front of the creature, while I +encouraged an attack from the front. As the head was slightly elevated +the loop was raised, and the bull put his horns in it, one after the +other. The rope was now rapidly fastened to stones and the bull +tightened the loop by his efforts to advance or retreat. With every +opportunity the slack was taken up, until no play was allowed the +animal. During this struggle all the other oxen retreated except one +female, and she was inoffensive. A few stones at close range drove her +off. Then we had the bull where we could reach him with the lance at +arm's length, and plunge it into his vitals. He soon fell over, the +first victim to our new art of musk ox capture. + +The others did not run very far away. Indeed, they were too fat to run, +and two more were soon secured in the same way. This time we took all +the meat we could with us to camp and left a man on guard. When all was +removed to the bay we found the load too heavy for our boat, so, in two +loads, we transported the meat and fat and skins to our camp, where we +built caches which we believed impregnable to the bear, although the +thieving creatures actually opened them later. + +Our lances repaired, we started out for another adventure a few days +later. It was a beautiful day. Our methods of attack were not efficient, +but we wished to avoid the risk of the last plunge of the lance, for our +lives were in the balance every time if the line should break, and with +every lunge of the animal we expected it to snap. In such case, we knew, +the assailant would surely be gored. + +We were sufficiently independent now to proceed more cautiously. With +the bull's willingness to put his head into the loop, I asked myself +whether the line loop could not be slipped beyond the horns and about +the neck, thus shutting off the air. So the line was lengthened with +this effort in view. + +Of the many groups of oxen which we saw we picked those in the positions +most to our advantage, although rather distant. Our new plan was tried +with success on a female. A bull horned her vigorously when she gasped +for breath, and which aided our efforts. A storming of stones scattered +the others of the group, and we were left to deal with our catch with +the knife. + +Our art of musk ox fighting was now completely developed. In the course +of a few weeks we secured enough to assure comfort and ease during the +long night. By our own efforts we were lifted suddenly from famine to +luxury. But it had been the stomach with its chronic emptiness which had +lashed the mind and body to desperate efforts with sufficient courage to +face the danger. Hunger, as I have found, is more potent as a stimulant +than barrels of whiskey. Beginning with the bow and arrow we had tried +everything which we could devise, but now our most important acquisition +was our intimate knowledge of the animal's own means of offense and +defense. + +We knew by a kind of instinct when an attack upon us was about to be +made, because the animal made a forward move, and we never failed in our +efforts to force a retreat. The rocks which the animals sought for an +easy defense were equally useful to us, and later we forced them into +deep waters and also deep snow with similar success. By the use of +stones and utilizing the creatures' own tactics we placed them where we +wished. And then again, by the animal's own efforts, we forced it to +strangle itself, which, after all, was the most humane method of +slaughter. Three human lives were thus saved by the invention of a new +art of chase. This gave us courage to attack those more vicious but less +dangerous animals, the bear and walrus. + +The musk ox now supplied many wants in our "Robinson Crusoe" life. From +the bone we made harpoon points, arrow pieces, knife handles, fox traps +and sledge repairs. The skin, with its remarkable fur, made our bed and +roofed our igloo. Of it we made all kinds of garments, but its greatest +use was for coats with hoods, stockings and mittens. From the skin, with +the fur removed, we made boots, patched punctures in our boat, and cut +lashings. The hair and wool which were removed from the skins made pads +for our palms in the mittens and cushions for the soles of our feet in +lieu of the grass formerly used. + +The meat became our staple food for seven months without change. It was +a delicious product. It has a flavor slightly sweet, like that of +horseflesh, but still distinctly pleasing. It possesses an odor unlike +musk but equally unlike anything that I know of. The live creatures +exhale the scent of domestic cattle. Just why this odd creature is +called "musk" ox is a mystery, for it is neither an ox, nor does it +smell of musk. The Eskimo name of "ah-ming-ma" would fit it much better. +The bones were used as fuel for outside fires, and the fat as both fuel +and food. + +At first our wealth of food came with surprise and delight to us, for, +in the absence of sweet or starchy foods, man craves fat. Sugar and +starch are most readily converted into fat by the animal laboratory, and +fat is one of the prime factors in the development and maintenance of +the human system. It is the confectionery of aboriginal man, and we had +taken up the lot of the most primitive aborigines, living and thriving +solely on the product of the chase without a morsel of civilized or +vegetable food. Under these circumstances we especially delighted in the +musk ox tallow, and more especially in the marrow, which we sucked from +the bone with the eagerness with which a child jubilantly manages a +stick of candy. + +[Illustration: ARCTIC WOLF] + + + + +WITH A NEW ART OF CHASE IN A NEW WORLD OF LIFE + +THREE WEEKS BEFORE THE SUNSET OF 1908--REVELLING IN AN EDEN OF +GAME--PECULIARITIES OF ANIMALS OF THE ARCTIC--HOW NATURE DICTATES +ANIMAL COLOR--THE QUEST OF SMALL LIFE + +XXVII + +COMING OF THE SECOND WINTER + + +In two months, from the first of September to the end of October, we +passed from a period of hunger, thirst and abject misery into the realm +of abundant game. The spell for inactivity had not yet come. Up to this +time we were too busy with the serious business of life to realize +thoroughly that we had really discovered a new natural wonderland. The +luck of Robinson Crusoe was not more fortunate than ours, although he +had not the cut of frost nor the long night, nor the torment of bears to +circumscribe his adventures. In successive stages of battle our eyes had +opened to a new world of life. + +In searching every nook and cranny of land we had acquired new arts of +life and a new perspective of nature's wonders. We slept in caves in +storm; in the lee of icebergs in strong winds and on the mossy cushions +of earth concavities. Here we learned to study and appreciate primal +factors of both animal and plant life. + +In the Arctic, nature tries to cover its nakedness in places where the +cruel winds do not cut its contour. The effort is interesting, not only +because of the charm of the verdant dress, but because of the evidence +of a motherly protection to the little life cells which struggle against +awful odds to weave that fabric wherever a terrestrial dimple is exposed +to the kisses of the southern sun. In these depressions, sheltered from +the blasts of storms, a kindly hand spreads a beautiful mantle of +colorful grass, moss, lichens and flowery plants. + +Here the lemming digs his home under the velvet cover, where he may +enjoy the roots and material protection from the abysmal frost of the +long night. Here in the protected folds of Mother Earth, blanketed by +the warm white robe of winter, he sleeps the peace of death while the +warring elements blast in fury outside. + +Here the Arctic hare plays with its bunnies during summer, and as the +winter comes the young grow to full maturity and dress in a silky down +of white. Under the snow they burrow, making long tunnels, still eating +and sleeping on their loved cushions of frozen plants, far under the +snow-skirts of Mother Earth, while the life-stilling blasts without +expend their wintry force. + +Here the ptarmigan scratches for its food. The musk ox and the caribou +browse, while the raven, with a kind word for all, collects food for its +palate. The bear and the wolf occasionally visit to collect tribute, +while the falcon and the fox with one eye open are ever on the alert for +the exercise of their craft. + +In these little smiling indentations of nature, when the sun begins to +caress the gentle slopes, while the snow melts and flows in leaping +streams--the sea still locked by the iron grip of the winter +embrace--the Arctic incubator works overtime to start the little ones of +the snow wilds. Thus in these dimples of nature rocks the cradle of +boreal life. + +Relieved of the all-absorbing care of providing food, I now was often +held spellbound as I wandered over these spots of nature's wonders. +Phases of life which never interested me before now riveted my +attention. Wandering from the softly cushioned gullies, the harsh ridge +life next came under my eyes. While the valleys and the gullies become +garden spots of summer glory, the very protection from winds which makes +this life possible buries the vegetable luxuriousness in winter under +unfathomable depths of snow. The musk ox and the caribou, dependent upon +this plant life for food, therefore become deprived of the usual means +of subsistence. But Mother Nature does not desert her children. The same +winds which compel man and feebler animals to seek shelter from its +death-dealing assault, afford food to the better fitted musk ox and +caribou. In summer, plants, like animals, climb to ridges, hummocks and +mountain slopes, to get air and light and warm sunbeams. But the battle +here is hard, and only very strong plants survive the force of wind and +frosts. + +The plant fibre here become tenacious; with a body gnarled and knotty +from long conflict the roots dig yards deep into the soil. This leaves +the breathing part of the plant dwarfed to a few inches. Here the +winter winds sweep off the snow and offer food to the musk ox and +caribou. Thus the wind, which destroys, also gives means of life. The +equalizing balance of nature is truly wonderful. + +In small, circumscribed areas we thus found ourselves in a new Eden of +primeval life. + +The topography of North Devon, however, placed a sharp limit to the +animated wilderness. Only a narrow strip of coast about Cape Sparbo, +extending about twenty-five miles to the east and about forty miles to +the west, presented any signs of land life. All other parts of the south +shore of Jones Sound are more barren than the shores of the Polar sea. + +Although our larder was now well stocked with meat for food and blubber +for fuel, we were still in need of furs and skins to prepare a new +equipment with which to return to the Greenland shores. The animals +whose pelts we required were abundant everywhere. But they were too +active to be caught by the art and the weapons evolved earlier in the +chase of the walrus, bear and musk ox. + +A series of efforts, therefore, was directed to the fox, the hare, the +ptarmigan and the seal. It was necessary to devise special methods and +means of capture for each family of animals. The hare was perhaps the +most important, not only because its delicately flavored meat furnished +a pleasing change from the steady diet of musk ox, but also because its +skin is not equalled by any other for stockings. In our quest of the +musk ox we had startled little groups of creatures from many centers. +Their winter fur was not prime until after the middle of October. Taking +notes of their haunts and their habits, we had, therefore, reserved the +hare hunt until the days just before sunset. + +[Illustration: E-TUK-I-SHOOK WAITING FOR A SEAL AT A BLOW-HOLE] + +[Illustration: TOWARD CAPE SPARBO IN A CANVAS BOAT WALRUS--PRIZE OF A +FIFTEEN HOUR BATTLE--4,000 POUNDS OF MEAT AND FAT] + +We had learned to admire this little aristocrat. It is the most +beautiful, most delicate of northern creatures. Early in the summer we +had found it grazing in the green meadows along the base of bird cliffs. +The little gray bunnies then played with their mothers about crystal +dens. Now the babes were full grown and clothed in the same immaculate +white of the parents. We could distinguish the young only by their +greater activity and their ceaseless curiosity. + +In the immediate vicinity of camp we found them first in gullies where +the previous winter's snow had but recently disappeared. Here the grass +was young and tender and of a flavor to suit their taste for delicacies. +A little later they followed the musk ox to the shores of lagoons or to +the wind-swept hills. Still later, as the winter snows blanketed the +pastures and the bitter storms of night swept the cheerless drifts, they +dug long tunnels under the snow for food, and when the storms were too +severe remained housed in these feeding dugouts. + +An animal of rare intelligence, the hare is quick to grasp an advantage, +and therefore as winter advances we find it a constant companion of the +musk ox. For in the diggings of the musk ox this little creature finds +sufficient food uncovered for its needs. + +With a skeleton as light as that of the bird and a skin as frail as +paper it is nevertheless as well prepared to withstand the rigors of the +Arctic as the bear with its clumsy anatomy. The entire makeup of the +hare is based upon the highest strain of animal economy. It expends the +greatest possible amount of energy at the cost of the least consumption +of food. Its fur is as white as the boreal snows and absorbs color +somewhat more readily. In a stream of crimson light it appears red and +white; in a shadow of ice or in the darkness of night it assumes the +subdued blue of the Polar world. Nature has bleached its fur seemingly +to afford the best protection against the frigid chill, for a suitable +white fur permits the escape of less bodily heat than any colored or +shaded pelt. + +The fox is its only real enemy, and the fox's chance of success is won +only by superior cunning. Its protection against the fox lies in its +lightning-like movement of the legs. When it scents danger it rises by a +series of darts that could be followed only by birds. Its expenditure of +muscular energy is so economical that it can continue its run for an +almost indefinite time. Shooting along a few hundred paces, it then +rises to rest in an erect posture. With its black-tipped ears in line +with its back it makes a fascinating little bit of nature's handiwork. +Again, when asleep, it curls up its legs carefully in the long fur of +its body, and its ever-active nose, with the divided lip, is then pushed +into the long soft fur of the breast where the frost crystals are +screened from the breath when storms carry drift snow. It is a fluffy +ball of animation which provokes one's admiration. + +Deprived as we were of most of the usual comforts of life, many things +were taught us by the creatures about. From the hare, with its +scrupulous attention to cleanliness, we learned how to cleanse our hands +and faces. With no soap, no towels and very little water, we had some +difficulty in trying to keep respectable appearances. The hare has the +same problem to deal with, but it is provided by nature with a cleansing +apparatus. Its own choice is the forepaw, but with its need for snow +shoes the hind legs serve a very useful purpose, and then, too, the +surface is developed, a surface covered with tough fur which, we +discovered, possessed the quality of a wet sponge and did not require, +for efficiency, either soap or water. With hare paws, therefore, we kept +clean. These paws also served as napkins. To take the place of a basin +and a towel we therefore gathered a supply of hare paws, enough to keep +clean for at least six months. + +The hare was a good mark for E-tuk-i-shook with the sling shot, and many +fell victims to his primitive genius. Ah-we-lah, never an expert at +stone slinging, became an adept with the bow and arrow. Usually he +returned with at least a hare from every day's chase. Our main success +resulted from a still more primitive device. Counting on its +inquisitiveness we devised a chain of loop lines arranged across the +hare's regular lines of travel. In playing and jumping through these +loops, the animal tightened the lines and became our victim +automatically. + +The ptarmigan chase was possible only for Ah-we-lah. The bird was not at +all shy, for it often came close to our den and scattered the snow like +a chicken. It was too small a mark for the sling shot and only Ah-we-lah +could give the arrow the precise direction for these feathered +creatures. Altogether, fifteen were secured in our locality, and all +served as dessert for my special benefit. According to Eskimo custom, a +young, unmarried man or woman cannot eat the ptarmigan, or +"_ahr-rish-shah_" as they call it. That pleasure is reserved for the +older people, and I did not for a moment risk the sacrilege of trying to +change the custom. It was greatly to my advantage, for it not only +impressed with suitable force my dignity as a superior Eskimo, but it +enabled me to enjoy an entire bird at a time instead of only a teasing +mouthful. + +To us the ptarmigan was at all times fascinating, but it proved ever a +thing of mystery. Descending from the skies at unexpected times it +embarks again for haunts unknown. At times we saw the birds in great +numbers. At other times they were absent for months. In summer the bird +has gray and brown feathers, mingled with white. It keeps close to the +inland ice, making its course along the snowy coast of Noonataks, beyond +the reach of man or fox. Late in September it seeks the lower ground +along the sea level. + +Like the hare and the musk ox, it delights in windy places where the +snow has been driven away. There it finds bits of moss and withered +plants which satisfy its needs. The summer plumage is at first sight +like that of the partridge. On close examination one finds the feathers +are only tipped with color--underneath, the plumage is white. In winter +it retains only the black feathers of its tail, otherwise it is as white +as the hare. Its legs often are covered with tough fur, like that of the +hare's lower hind legs. The meat is delicate in flavor and tender. It is +the most beautiful of the four birds that remain in the white world when +all is bleak during the night. + +We sought the fox more diligently than the ptarmigan. We had a more +tangible way of securing it. Furthermore, we were in great need of its +skin. E-tuk-i-shook and Ah-we-lah regarded fox hams as quite a +delicacy--a delicacy which I never willingly shared when there were musk +tenderloins about. We had no steel traps, and with its usual craft the +fox usually managed to evade our crude weapons by keeping out of sight. +Bone traps were made with a good deal of care after the pattern of steel +traps. We used a musk-ox horn as a spring. But with these we were only +partially successful. As a last resort, little domes were arranged in +imitation of the usual caches, with trap stone doors. In these we +managed to secure fourteen white and two blue animals. After that they +proved too wise for our craft. + +The fox becomes shy only in the end of October, when its fur begins to +be really worth taking. Before that it followed us everywhere on the +musk ox quest, for it was not slow to learn the advantage of being near +our battle scenes. We frequently left choice bits for its picking, a +favor which it seemed to appreciate by a careful watchfulness of our +camps. Although a much more cunning thief than the bear, we could afford +its plunderings, for it had not so keen a taste for blubber and its +capacity was limited. We thus got well acquainted. + +Up to the present we had failed in the quest of the seal. During the +open season of summer, without a _kayak_, we could not get near the +animal. As the winter and the night advanced, we were too busy with the +land animals to watch the blow-holes in the new ice. When the sea is +first spread with the thin sheet of colorless ice, which later thickens, +the seal rises to the surface, makes a breathing hole, descends to its +feeding grounds on the sea bottom for about ten minutes, then rises and +makes another hole. This line of openings is arranged in a circle or a +series of connecting, oblong lines, marking that particular seal's +favorite feeding ground. Before the young ice is covered with snow, +these breathing holes are easily located by a ring of white frost +crystals, which condense and fall as the seal blows. But now that the +winter had sheeted the black ice evenly with a white cover, the seal +holes, though open, could not be found. We were not in need of either +fat or meat, but the seal skins were to fill an important want. We +required for boots and sled lashing the thin, tough seal hide. How could +we get it? + +From our underground den we daily watched the wanderings of the bears. +They trailed along certain lines which we knew to be favorable feeding +grounds for seals, but they did not seem to be successful. Could we not +profit by their superb scenting instinct and find the blow-holes? The +bear had been our worst enemy, but unconsciously it also proved to be +our best friend. + +We started out to trail the bear's footprints. By these we were led to +the blow-holes, where we found the snow about had been circled with a +regular trail. Most of these had been abandoned, for the seal has a +scent as keen as the bear, but a few "live" holes were located. Sticks +were placed to locate these, and after a few days' careful study and +hard work we harpooned six seals. Taking only the skins and blubber, we +left the carcasses for bruin's share of the chase--to be consumed later. +We did not hunt together with the bear--at least, not knowingly. + +In these wanderings over game lands we were permitted a very close +scrutiny of the animals about, and it was at this time that I came to +certain definite conclusions as to prevailing laws of color and dress of +our co-habitants of the Polar wastes. + +The animals of the Arctic assume a color in accordance to their need for +heat transmission. The prevailing influence is white, as light furs +permit the least escape of heat. It is evidently more important to +confine the heat of the body, than to gather heat from the sun's feeble +rays. The necessity for bleaching the furry raiment becomes most +operative in winter when the temperature of the air is 150° below that +of the body. In the summer, when the continued sunshine is made more +heating by the piercing influence of the reflecting snow-fields, there +is a tendency to absorb heat. Then nature darkens the skin, which +absorbs heat accordingly. + +The relative advantage of light and dark shades can be easily +demonstrated by placing pieces of white and black cloth on a surface of +snow, with a slope at right angles to the sun's rays. If, after a few +hours, the cloth is removed the snow under the black cloth will be +melted considerably, while that under the white cloth will show little +effect. + +Nature makes use of this law of physics to ease the hard lot of its +creatures fighting the weather in the icy world. The laws of color +protection as advocated in the rules of natural selection are not +operative here, because of the vitally important demand of heat economy. +If we now seek the problem of nature's body colored dyes, with heat +economy as the key, our calculations will become easy. The serwah, a +species of guillemot, which is as black as the raven in summer, is +white in winter. The ptarmigan is light as pearl in winter, but its +feathers become tipped with amber in summer. The hare is slightly gray +in summer, but, in winter, becomes white as the snow under which it +finds food and shelter. + +The white fox is gray in summer, the blue fox darkens as the sun +advances, while its under fur becomes lighter with increasing cold. The +caribou is dark brown as it grazes the moss-colored fields, but becomes +nearly white with the permanent snows. The polar bear, as white as +nature can make it, with only blubber to mix its paints, basks in the +midnight sun with a raiment suggestive of gold. The musk ox changes its +dark under-fur for a lighter shade. The raven has a white under-coat in +winter. The rat is gray in summer but bleaches to blue-gray in winter +time. The laws of selection and heat economy are thus combined. + +While thus preparing for the coming winter by seeking animals with furry +pelts, the weather conditions made our task increasingly difficult. The +storm of the descending sun whipped the seas into white fury and brushed +the lands with icy clouds. With the descent of the sun, nature again set +its seal of gloom on Arctic life. The cheer of a sunny heaven was +blotted from the skies, and the coming of the winter blackness was +signalled by the beginning of a warfare of the elements. All hostile +nature was now set loose to expend its restive battle energy. + +For brief moments the weather was quiet, and then in awe-inspiring +silence we steered for sequestered gullies in quest of little creatures. +This death-like stillness was in harmony with our loneliness. As the sea +was stilled by the iron bonds of frost, as life sought protection under +the storm-driven snows of land, the winds, growing even wilder, beat a +maddening onslaught over the dead, frozen world. The thunder of elements +shook the very rocks under which we slept. Then again would fall a spell +of that strange silence--all was dead, the sun glowed no more, the +creatures of the wilds were hushed. We were all alone--alone in a vast, +white dead world. + +[Illustration: LEMMING] + + + + +A HUNDRED NIGHTS IN AN UNDERGROUND DEN + +LIVING LIKE MEN OF THE STONE AGE--THE DESOLATION OF THE LONG +NIGHT--LIFE ABOUT CAPE SPARBO--PREPARING EQUIPMENT FOR THE RETURN +TO GREENLAND--SUNRISE, FEBRUARY 11, 1909 + +XXVIII + +LIFE ABOUT CAPE SPARBO + + +The coming night slowly fixed its seal on our field of activity. Early +in August the sun had dipped under the icy contour of North Lincoln, and +Jones Sound had then begun to spread its cover of crystal. The warm rays +gradually melted in a perpetual blue frost. The air thickened. The land +darkened. The days shortened. The night lengthened. The Polar cold and +darkness of winter came hand in hand. + +Late in September the nights had become too dark to sleep in the open, +with inquisitive bears on every side. Storms, too, increased thereafter +and deprived us of the cheer of colored skies. Thus we were now forced +to seek a retreat in our underground den. + +We took about as kindly to this as a wild animal does to a cage. For +over seven months we had wandered over vast plains of ice, with a new +camp site almost every day. We had grown accustomed to a wandering life +like that of the bear, but we had not developed his hibernating +instinct. We were anxious to continue our curious battle of life. + +In October the bosom of the sea became blanketed, and the curve of the +snow-covered earth was polarized in the eastern skies. The final period +for the death of day and earthly glory was advancing, but Nature in her +last throes displayed some of her most alluring phases. The colored +silhouette of the globe was perhaps the most remarkable display. In +effect, this was a shadow of the earth thrown into space. By the +reflected, refracted and polarized light of the sun, the terrestrial +shadows were outlined against the sky in glowing colors. Seen +occasionally in other parts of the globe, it is only in the Polar +regions, with its air of crystal and its surface of mirrors, that the +proper mediums are afforded for this gigantic spectral show. + +We had an ideal location. A glittering sea, with a level horizon, lay +along the east and west. The weather was good, the skies were clear, +and, as the sun sank, the sky over it was flushed with orange or gold. +This gradually paled, and over the horizon opposite there rose an arc in +feeble prismatic colors with a dark zone of purple under it. The arc +rose as the sun settled; the purple spread beyond the polarized bow; and +gradually the heavens turned a deep purple blue to the zenith, while the +halo of the globe was slowly lost in its own shadow. + +The colored face of the earth painted on the screen of the heavens left +the last impression of worldly charm on the retina. In the end of +October the battle of the elements, storms attending the setting of the +sun, began to blast the air into a chronic fury. By this time we were +glad to creep into our den and await the vanishing weeks of ebbing day. + +In the doom of night to follow, there would at least be some quiet +moments during which we could stretch our legs. The bears, which had +threatened our existence, were now kept off by a new device which served +the purpose for a time. We had food and fuel enough for the winter. +There should have been nothing to have disturbed our tempers, but the +coming of the long blackness makes all Polar life ill at ease. + +Early in November the storms ceased long enough to give us a last fiery +vision. With a magnificent cardinal flame the sun rose, gibbered in the +sky and sank behind the southern cliffs on November 3. It was not to +rise again until February 11 of the next year. We were therefore doomed +to hibernate in our underground den for at least a hundred double nights +before the dawn of a new day opened our eyes. + +The days now came and went in short order. For hygienic reasons we kept +up the usual routine of life. The midday light soon darkened to +twilight. The moon and stars appeared at noon. The usual partition of +time disappeared. All was night, unrelieved darkness, midnight, midday, +morning or evening. + +We stood watches of six hours each to keep the fires going, to keep off +the bears and to force an interest in a blank life. We knew that we were +believed to be dead. For our friends in Greenland would not ascribe to +us the luck which came after our run of abject misfortune. This thought +inflicted perhaps the greatest pain of the queer prolongation of life +which was permitted us. It was loneliness, frigid loneliness. I wondered +whether men ever felt so desolately alone. + +We could not have been more thoroughly isolated if we had been +transported to the surface of the moon. I find myself utterly unable to +outline the emptiness of our existence. In other surroundings we never +grasp the full meaning of the word "alone." When it is possible to put a +foot out of doors into sunlight without the risk of a bear-paw on your +neck it is also possible to run off a spell of blues, but what were we +to do with every dull rock rising as a bear ghost and with the torment +of a satanic blackness to blind us? + +With the cheer of day, a kindly nature and a new friend, it is easy to +get in touch with a sympathetic chord. The mere thought of another human +heart within touch, even a hundred miles away, would have eased the +suspense of the silent void. But we could entertain no such hopefulness. +We were all alone in a world where every pleasant aspect of nature had +deserted us. Although three in number, a bare necessity had compressed +us into a single composite individuality. + +There were no discussions, no differences of opinion. We had been too +long together under bitter circumstances to arouse each other's +interest. A single individual could not live long in our position. A +selfish instinct tightened a fixed bond to preserve and protect one +another. As a battle force we made a formidable unit, but there was no +matches to start the fires of inspiration. + +The half darkness of midday and the moonlight still permitted us to +creep from under the ground and seek a few hours in the open. The stone +and bone fox traps and the trap caves for the bears which we had built +during the last glimmer of day offered an occupation with some +recreation. But we were soon deprived of this. + +Bears headed us off at every turn. We were not permitted to proceed +beyond an enclosed hundred feet from the hole of our den. Not an inch of +ground or a morsel of food was permitted us without a contest. It was a +fight of nature against nature. We either actually saw the little sooty +nostrils with jets of vicious breath rising, and the huge outline of a +wild beast ready to spring on us, or imagined we saw it. With no +adequate means of defense we were driven to imprisonment within the +walls of our own den. + +From within, our position was even more tantalizing. The bear thieves +dug under the snows over our heads and snatched blocks of blubber fuel +from under our very eyes at the port without a consciousness of +wrongdoing. Occasionally we ventured out to deliver a lance, but each +time the bear would make a leap for the door and would have entered had +the opening been large enough. In other cases we shot arrows through the +peep-hole. A bear head again would burst through the silk covered window +near the roof, where knives, at close range and in good light, could be +driven with sweet vengeance. + +As a last resort we made a hole through the top of the den. When a bear +was heard near, a long torch was pushed through. The snow for acres +about was then suddenly flashed with a ghostly whiteness which almost +frightened us. But the bear calmly took advantage of the light to pick a +larger piece of the blubber upon which our lives depended, and then +with an air of superiority he would move into the brightest light, +usually within a few feet of our peep-hole, where we could almost touch +his hateful skin. Without ammunition we were helpless. + +Two weeks after sunset we heard the last cry of ravens. After a silence +of several days they suddenly descended with a piercing shout which cut +the frosty stillness. We crept out of our den quickly to read the riddle +of the sudden bluster. There were five ravens on five different rocks, +and the absence of the celestial color gave them quite an appropriate +setting. They were restless: there was no food for them. A fox had +preceded them with his usual craftiness, and had left no pickings for +feathered creatures. + +A family of five had gathered about in October, when the spoils of the +chase were being cached, and we encouraged their stay by placing food +for them regularly. Some times a sly fox, and at other times a thieving +bear, got the little morsels, but there were usually sufficient picking +for the raven's little crop. They had found a suitable cave high up in +the great cliffs of granite behind our den. + +We were beginning to be quite friendly. My Eskimo companions ascribed to +the birds almost human qualities and they talked to them reverently, +thereby displaying their heart's desire. The secrets of the future were +all entrusted to their consideration. Would the "too-loo-ah" go to +Eskimo Lands and deliver their messages? The raven said "ka-ah" (yes). + +E-tuk-i-shook said: "Go and take the tears from An-na-do-a's eyes; tell +her that I am alive and well and will come to take her soon. Tell +Pan-ic-pa (his father) that I am in Ah-ming-ma-noona (Musk Ox Land). +Bring us some powder to blacken the bear's snout." "Ka-ah, ka-ah," said +the two ravens at once. + +Ah-we-lah began an appeal to drive off the bears and to set the raven +spirits as guardians of our blubber caches. This was uttered in shrill +shouts, and then, in a low, trembling voice, he said: "Dry the tears of +mother's cheeks and tell her that we are in a land of todnu (tallow)." + +"Ka-ah," replied the raven. + +"Then go to Ser-wah; tell her not to marry that lazy gull, Ta-tamh; tell +her that Ah-we-lah's skin is still flushed with thoughts of her, that he +is well and will return to claim her in the first moon after sunrise." +"Ka-ah, ka-ah, ka-ah," said the raven, and rose as if to deliver the +messages. + +For the balance of that day we saw only three ravens. The two had +certainly started for the Greenland shores. The other three, after an +engorgement, rose to their cave and went to sleep for the night as we +thought. No more was seen of them until the dawn of day of the following +year. + +A few days later we also made other acquaintances. They were the most +interesting bits of life that crossed our trail, and in the dying effort +to seek animal companionship our soured tempers were sweetened somewhat +by four-footed joys. + +A noise had been heard for several successive days at eleven o'clock. +This was the time chosen by the bears for their daily exercise along our +foot-path, and we were usually all awake with a knife or a lance in +hand, not because there was any real danger, for our house cemented by +ice was as secure as a fort, but because we felt more comfortable in a +battle attitude. Through the peep-hole we saw them marching up and down +along the foot-path tramped down by our daily spells of leg-stretching. + +They were feasting on the aroma of our foot-prints, and when they left +it was usually safe for us to venture out. Noises, however, continued +within the walls of the den. It was evident that there was something +alive at close range. + +We were lonely enough to have felt a certain delight in shaking hands +even with bruin if the theft of our blubber had not threatened the very +foundation of our existence. For in the night we could not augment our +supplies; and without fat, fire and water were impossible. No! there was +not room for man and bear at Cape Sparbo. Without ammunition, however, +we were nearly helpless. + +But noises continued after bruin's steps came with a decreasing metallic +ring from distant snows. There was a scraping and a scratching within +the very walls of our den. We had a neighbor and a companion. Who, or +what, could it be? We were kept in suspense for some time. When all was +quiet at the time which we chose to call midnight, a little blue rat +came out and began to tear the bark from our willow lamp trimmer. + +I was on watch, awake, and punched E-tuk-i-shook without moving my head. +His eyes opened with surprise on the busy rodent, and Ah-we-lah was +kicked. He turned over and the thing jumped into a rock crevasse. + +The next day we risked the discomfort of bruin's interview and dug up an +abundance of willow roots for our new tenant. These were arranged in +appetizing display and the rat came out very soon and helped himself, +but he permitted no familiarity. We learned to love the creature, +however, all the more because of its shyness. By alternate jumps from +the roots to seclusion it managed to fill up with all it could carry. +Then it disappeared as suddenly as it came. + +In the course of two days it came back with a companion, its mate. They +were beautiful little creatures, but little larger than mice. They had +soft, fluffy fur of a pearl blue color, with pink eyes. They had no +tails. Their dainty little feet were furred to the claw tips with silky +hair. They made a picture of animal delight which really aroused us from +stupor to little spasms of enthusiasm. A few days were spent in testing +our intentions. Then they arranged a berth just above my head and became +steady boarders. + +Their confidence and trust flattered our vanity and we treated them as +royal guests. No trouble was too great for us to provide them with +suitable delicacies. We ventured into the darkness and storms for hours +to dig up savory roots and mosses. A little stage was arranged every day +with the suitable footlights. In the eagerness to prolong the rodent +theatricals, the little things were fed over and over, until they became +too fat and too lazy to creep from their berths. + +They were good, clean orderly camp fellows, always kept in their places +and never ventured to borrow our bed furs, nor did they disturb our +eatables. With a keen sense of justice, and an aristocratic air, they +passed our plates of carnivorous foods without venturing a taste, and +went to their herbivorous piles of sod delicacies. About ten days before +midnight they went to sleep and did not wake for more than a month. +Again we were alone. Now even the bears deserted us. + +In the dull days of blankness which followed, few incidents seemed to +mark time. The cold increased. Storms were more continuous and came with +greater force. We were cooped up in our underground den with but a +peep-hole through the silk of our old tent to watch the sooty nocturnal +bluster. We were face to face with a spiritual famine. With little +recreation, no amusements, no interesting work, no reading matter, with +nothing to talk about, the six hours of a watch were spread out to +weeks. + +We had no sugar, no coffee, not a particle of civilized food. We had +meat and blubber, good and wholesome food at that. But the stomach +wearied of its never changing carnivorous stuffing. The dark den, with +its walls of pelt and bone, its floor decked with frosted tears of ice, +gave no excuse for cheer. Insanity, abject madness, could only be +avoided by busy hands and long sleep. + +My life in this underground place was, I suppose, like that of a man in +the stone age. The interior was damp and cold and dark; with our +pitiable lamps burning, the temperature of the top was fairly moderate, +but at the bottom it was below zero. Our bed was a platform of rocks +wide enough for three prostrate men. Its forward edge was our seat when +awake. Before this was a space where a deeper hole in the earth +permitted us to stand upright, one at a time. There, one by one, we +dressed and occasionally stood to move our stiff and aching limbs. + +On either side of this standing space was half a tin plate in which +musk-ox fat was burned. We used moss as a wick. These lights were kept +burning day and night; it was a futile, imperceptible sort of heat they +gave. Except when we got close to the light, it was impossible to see +one another's faces. + +We ate twice daily--without enjoyment. We had few matches, and in fear +of darkness tended our lamps diligently. There was no food except meat +and tallow; most of the meat, by choice, was eaten raw and frozen. Night +and morning we boiled a small pot of meat for broth; but we had no salt +to season it. Stooped and cramped, day by day, I found occasional relief +from the haunting horror of this life by rewriting the almost illegible +notes made on our journey. + +My most important duty was the preparation of my notes and observations +for publication. This would afford useful occupation and save months of +time afterwards. But I had no paper. My three note books were full, and +there remained only a small pad of prescription blanks and two miniature +memorandum books. I resolved, however, to try to work out the outline of +my narrative in chapters in these. I had four good pencils and one +eraser. These served a valuable purpose. With sharp points I shaped the +words in small letters. When the skeleton of the book was ready I was +surprised to find how much could be crowded on a few small pages. By a +liberal use of the eraser many parts of pages were cleared of +unnecessary notes. Entire lines were written between all the lines of +the note books, the pages thus carrying two narrations or series of +notes. + +By the use of abbreviations and dashes, a kind of short-hand was +devised. My art of space economy complete, I began to write, literally +developing the very useful habit of carefully shaping every idea before +an attempt was made to use the pencil. In this way my entire book and +several articles were written. Charts, films and advertisement boxes +were covered. In all 150,000 words were written, and absolute despair, +which in idleness opens the door to madness, was averted. + +Our needs were still urgent enough to enforce much other work. Drift +threatened to close the entrance to our dungeon and this required +frequent clearing. Blubber for the lamp was sliced and pounded every +day. The meat corner was occasionally stocked, for it required several +days to thaw out the icy musk ox quarters. Ice was daily gathered and +placed within reach to keep the water pots full. The frost which was +condensed out of our breaths made slabs of ice on the floor, and this +required occasional removal. The snow under our bed furs, which had a +similar origin, was brushed out now and then. + +Soot from the lamps, a result of bad housekeeping, which a proud Eskimo +woman would not have tolerated for a minute, was scraped from the bone +rafters about once a week. With a difference of one hundred degrees +between the breathing air of the den and that outside there was a +rushing interchanging breeze through every pinhole and crevice. The +ventilation was good. The camp cleanliness could almost have been called +hygienic, although no baths had been indulged in for six months, and +then only by an unavoidable, undesirable accident. + +Much had still to be done to prepare for our homegoing in the remote +period beyond the night. It was necessary to plan and make a new +equipment. The sledge, the clothing, the camp outfit, everything which +had been used in the previous campaign, were worn out. Something could +be done by judicious repairing, but nearly everything required +reconstruction. In the new arrangement we were to take the place of the +dogs at the traces and the sledge loads must be prepared accordingly. +There was before us an unknown line of trouble for three hundred miles +before we could step on Greenland shores. It was only the hope of +homegoing, which gave some mental strength in the night of gloom. Musk +ox meat was now cut into strips and dried over the lamps. Tallow was +prepared and moulded in portable form for fuel. + +But in spite of all efforts we gradually sank to the lowest depths of +the Arctic midnight. The little midday glimmer on the southern sky +became indiscernible. Only the swing of the Great Dipper and other stars +told the time of the day or night. We had fancied that the persistent +wind ruffled our tempers. But now it was still; not a breath of air +moved the heavy blackness. In that very stillness we found reasons for +complaint. Storms were preferable to the dead silence; anything was +desirable to stir the spirits to action. + +Still the silence was only apparent. Wind noises floated in the frosty +distance; cracking rocks, exploding glaciers and tumbling avalanches +kept up a muffled rumbling which the ear detected only when it +rested on the floor rock of our bed. The temperature was low-- +-48° F.--so low that at times the very air seemed to crack. Every +creature of the wild had been buried in drift; all nature was asleep. +In our dungeon all was a mental blank. + +Not until two weeks after midnight did we awake to a proper +consciousness of life. The faint brightness of the southern skies at +noon opened the eye to spiritual dawn. The sullen stupor and deathlike +stillness vanished. + +Shortly after black midnight descended I began to experience a curious +psychological phenomenon. The stupor of the days of travel wore away, +and I began to see myself as in a mirror. I can explain this no better. +It is said that a man falling from a great height usually has a picture +of his life flashed through his brain in the short period of descent. I +saw a similar cycle of events. + +The panorama began with incidents of childhood, and it seems curious now +with what infinite detail I saw people whom I had long forgotten, and +went through the most trivial experiences. In successive stages every +phase of life appeared and was minutely examined; every hidden recess of +gray matter was opened to interpret the biographies of self-analysis. +The hopes of my childhood and the discouragements of my youth filled me +with emotion; feelings of pleasure and sadness came as each little +thought picture took definite shape; it seemed hardly possible that so +many things, potent for good and bad, could have been done in so few +years. I saw myself, not as a voluntary being, but rather as a +resistless atom, predestined in its course, being carried on by an +inexorable fate. + +Meanwhile our preparations for return were being accomplished. This +work had kept us busy during all of the wakeful spells of the night. +Much still remained to be done. + +Although real pleasure followed all efforts of physical labor, the +balking muscles required considerable urging. Musk ox meat was cut into +portable blocks, candles were made, fur skins were dressed and chewed, +boots, stockings, pants, shirts, sleeping bags were made. The sledge was +re-lashed, things were packed in bags. All was ready about three weeks +before sunrise. Although the fingers and the jaws were thus kept busy, +the mind and also the heart were left free to wander. + +In the face of all our efforts to ward aside the ill effects of the +night we gradually became its victims. Our skin paled, our strength +failed, the nerves weakened, and the mind ultimately became a blank. The +most notable physical effect, however, was the alarming irregularity of +the heart. + +In the locomotion of human machinery the heart is the motor. Like all +good motors it has a governor which requires some adjustment. In the +Arctic, where the need of regulation is greatest, the facilities for +adjustment are withdrawn. In normal conditions, as the machine of life +pumps the blood which drives all, its force and its regularity are +governed by the never-erring sunbeams. When these are withdrawn, as they +are in the long night, the heart pulsations become irregular; at times +slow, at other times spasmodic. + +Light seems to be as necessary to the animal as to the plant. A diet of +fresh meat, healthful hygienic surroundings, play for the mind, +recreation for the body, and strong heat from open fires, will help; +but only the return of the heaven-given sun will properly adjust the +motor of man. + +As the approaching day brightened to a few hours of twilight at midday, +we developed a mood for animal companionship. A little purple was now +thrown on the blackened snows. The weather was good. All the usual +sounds of nature were suspended, but unusual sounds came with a weird +thunder. The very earth began to shake in an effort to break the seal of +frost. For several days nothing moved into our horizon which could be +imagined alive. + +About two weeks before sunrise the rats woke and began to shake their +beautiful blue fur in graceful little dances, but they were not really +alive and awake in a rat sense for several days. At about the same time +the ravens began to descend from their hiding place and screamed for +food. There were only three; two were still conversing with the Eskimo +maidens far away, as my companions thought. + +In my subsequent strolls I found the raven den and to my horror +discovered that the two were frozen. I did not deprive E-tuk-i-shook and +Ah-we-lah of their poetic dream; the sad news of raven bereavement was +never told. + +The foxes now began to bark from a safe distance and advanced to get +their share of the camp spoils. Ptarmigan shouted from nearby rocks. +Wolves were heard away in the musk ox fields, but they did not venture +to pay us a visit. + +The bear that had shadowed us everywhere before midnight was the last to +claim our friendship at dawn. There were good reasons for this which we +did not learn until later. The bear stork had arrived. But really we had +changed heart even towards the bear. Long before he returned we were +prepared to give him a welcome reception. In our new and philosophical +turn of mind we thought better of bruin. In our greatest distress during +the previous summer he had kept us alive. In our future adventures he +might perform a similar mission. After all he had no sporting +proclivities; he did not hunt or trouble us for the mere fun of our +discomfort or the chase. His aim in life was the very serious business +of getting food. Could we blame him? Had we not a similar necessity? + +A survey of our caches proved that we were still rich in the coin of the +land. There remained meat and blubber sufficient for all our needs, with +considerable to spare for other empty stomachs. So, to feed the bear, +meat was piled up in heaps for his delight. + +The new aroma rose into the bleaching night air. We peeped with eager +eyes through our ports to spot results. The next day at eleven o'clock +footsteps were heard. The noise indicated caution and shyness instead of +the bold quick step which we knew so well. There was room for only one +eye and only one man at a time at the peep-hole, and so we took turns. +Soon the bear was sighted, proceeding with the utmost caution behind +some banks and rocks. The blue of the snows, with yellow light, dyed his +fur to an ugly green. He was thin and gaunt and ghostly. There was the +stealth and the cunning of the fox in his movements. But he could not +get his breakfast, the first after a fast of weeks, without coming +squarely into our view. + +The den was buried under the winter snows and did not disturb the +creature, but the size of the pile of meat did disturb its curiosity. +When within twenty-five yards, a few sudden leaps were made, and the +ponderous claws came down on a walrus shoulder. His teeth began to grind +like a stone cutter. For an hour the bear stood there and displayed +itself to good advantage. Our hatred of the creature entirely vanished. + +Five days passed before that bear returned. In the meantime we longed +for it to come back. We had unconsciously developed quite a brotherly +bear interest. In the period which followed we learned that eleven +o'clock was the hour, and that five days was the period between meals. +The bear calendar and the clock were consulted with mathematical +precision. + +We also learned that our acquaintance was a parent. By a little +exploration in February we discovered the bear den, in a snow covered +cave, less than a mile west. In it were two saucy little teddies in +pelts of white silk that would have gladdened the heart of any child. +The mother was not at home at the time, and we were not certain enough +of her friendship, or of her whereabouts, to play with the twins. + +With a clearing horizon and a wider circle of friendship our den now +seemed a cheerful home. Our spirits awakened as the gloom of the night +was quickly lost in the new glitter of day. + +On the eleventh of February the snow-covered slopes of North Devon +glowed with the sunrise of 1909. The sun had burst nature's dungeon. +Cape Sparbo glowed with golden light. The frozen sea glittered with +hills of shimmering lilac. We escaped to a joyous freedom. With a +reconstructed sled, new equipment and newly acquired energy we were +ready to pursue the return journey to Greenland and fight the last +battle of the Polar campaign. + +[Illustration: GUILLEMOT] + + + + +HOMEWARD WITH A HALF SLEDGE AND HALF-FILLED STOMACHS + +THREE HUNDRED MILES THROUGH STORM AND SNOW AND UPLIFTED MOUNTAINS OF ICE +TROUBLES--DISCOVER TWO ISLANDS--ANNOATOK IS REACHED--MEETING HARRY +WHITNEY--NEWS OF PEARY'S SEIZURE OF SUPPLIES + +XXIX + +BACK TO GREENLAND FRIENDS + + +On February 18, 1908, the reconstructed sledge was taken beyond the ice +fort and loaded for the home run. We had given up the idea of journeying +to Lancaster Sound to await the whalers. There were no Eskimos on the +American side nearer than Pond's Inlet. It was somewhat farther to our +headquarters on the Greenland shores, but all interests would be best +served by a return to Annoatok. + +During the night we had fixed all of our attention upon the return +journey, and had prepared a new equipment with the limited means at our +command; but, traveling in the coldest season of the year, it was +necessary to carry a cumbersome outfit of furs, and furthermore, since +we were to take the place of the dogs in the traces, we could not expect +to transport supplies for more than thirty days. In this time, however, +we hoped to reach Cape Sabine, where the father of E-tuk-i-shook had +been told to place a cache of food for us. + +Starting so soon after sunrise, the actual daylight proved very brief, +but a brilliant twilight gave a remarkable illumination from eight to +four. The light of dawn and that of the afterglow was tossed to and fro +in the heavens, from reflecting surfaces of glitter, for four hours +preceding and following midday. To use this play of light to the best +advantage, it was necessary to begin preparations early by starlight; +and thus, when the dim purple glow from the northeast brightened the +dull gray-blue of night, the start was made for Greenland shores and for +home. + +We were dressed in heavy furs. The temperature was -49°. A light air +brushed the frozen mist out of Jones Sound, and cut our sooty faces. The +sled was overloaded, and the exertion required for its movement over the +groaning snow was tremendous. A false, almost hysterical, enthusiasm +lighted our faces, but the muscles were not yet equal to the task set +for them. + +Profuse perspiration came with the first hours of dog work, and our +heavy fur coats were exchanged for the sealskin _nitshas_ (lighter +coat). At noon the snows were fired and the eastern skies burned in +great lines of flame. But there was no sun and no heat. We sat on the +sledge for a prolonged period, gasping for breath and drinking the new +celestial glory so long absent from our outlook. As the joy of color was +lost in the cold purple of half-light, our shoulders were braced more +vigorously into the traces. The ice proved good, but the limit of +strength placed camp in a snowhouse ten miles from our winter den. With +the new equipment, our camp life now was not like that of the Polar +campaign. Dried musk ox meat and strips of musk fat made a steady diet. +Moulded tallow served as fuel in a crescent-shaped disk of tin, in which +carefully prepared moss was crushed and arranged as a wick. Over this +primitive fire we managed to melt enough ice to quench thirst, and also +to make an occasional pot of broth as a luxury. While the drink was +liquefying, the chill of the snow igloo was also moderated, and we crept +into the bags of musk ox skins, where agreeable repose and home dreams +made us forget the cry of the stomach and the torment of the cold. + +At the end of eight days of forced marches we reached Cape Tennyson. The +disadvantage of manpower, when compared to dog motive force, was clearly +shown in this effort. The ice was free of pressure troubles and the +weather was endurable. Still, with the best of luck, we had averaged +only about seven miles daily. With dogs, the entire run would have been +made easily in two days. + +As we neared the land two small islands were discovered. Both were about +one thousand feet high, with precipitous sea walls, and were on a line +about two miles east of Cape Tennyson. The most easterly was about one +and a half miles long, east to west, with a cross-section, north to +south, of about three-quarters of a mile. About half a mile to the west +of this was a much smaller island. There was no visible vegetation, and +no life was seen, although hare and fox tracks were crossed on the ice. +I decided to call the larger island E-tuk-i-shook, and the smaller +Ah-we-lah. These rocks will stand as monuments to the memory of my +faithful savage comrades when all else is forgotten. + +From Cape Tennyson to Cape Isabella the coast of Ellesmere Land was +charted, in the middle of the last century, by ships at a great distance +from land. Little has been added since. The wide belt of pack thrown +against the coast made further exploration from the ship very difficult, +but in our northward march over the sea-ice it was hoped that we might +keep close enough to the shores to examine the land carefully. + +A few Eskimos had, about fifty years previously, wandered along this ice +from Pond's Inlet to the Greenland camps. They left the American shores +because famine, followed by forced cannibalism, threatened to +exterminate the tribe. A winter camp had been placed on Coburg Island. +Here many walruses and bears were secured during the winter, while in +summer, from Kent Island, many guillemots were secured. In moving from +these northward, by skin boat and _kayak_, they noted myriads of +guillemots, or "acpas," off the southeast point of the mainland. There +being no name in the Eskimo vocabulary for this land, it was called +Acpohon, or "The Home of Guillemots." The Greenland Eskimos had +previously called the country "Ah-ming-mah Noona," or Musk Ox Land, but +they also adopted the name of Acpohon, so we have taken the liberty of +spreading the name over the entire island as a general name for the most +northern land west of Greenland. In pushing northward, many of the +Eskimos starved, and the survivors had a bitter fight for subsistence. +Our experience was similar. + +[Illustration: PUNCTURED CANVAS BOAT IN WHIH WE PADDLED 1,000 MILES +FAMINE DAYS WHEN ONLY STRAY BIRDS PREVENTED STARVATION DEN IN WHICH WERE +SPENT 100 DOUBLE NIGHTS] + +[Illustration: BULL FIGHTS WITH THE MUSK OX ABOUT CAPE SPARBO] + +Near Cape Paget those ancient Eskimos made a second winter camp. Here +narwhals and bears were secured, and through Talbot's Fiord a short pass +was discovered over Ellesmere Land to the musk ox country of the west +shores. The Eskimos who survived the second winter reached the Greenland +shores during the third summer. There they introduced the _kayak_, and +also the bow and arrow. Their descendants are to-day the most +intelligent of the most northern Eskimos. + +To my companions the environment of the new land which we were passing +was in the nature of digging up ancient history. Several old camp sites +were located, and E-tuk-i-shook, whose grandfather was one of the old +pioneers, was able to tell us the incidents of each camp with remarkable +detail. + +As a rule, however, it was very difficult to get near the land. Deep +snows, huge pressure lines of ice, and protruding glaciers forced our +line of march far from the Eskimo ruins which we wished to examine. From +Cape Tennyson to Cape Clarence the ice near the open water proved fairly +smooth, but the humid saline surface offered a great resistance to the +metal plates of the sled. Here ivory or bone plates would have lessened +the friction very much. A persistent northerly wind also brought the ice +and the humid discomfort of our breath back to our faces with painful +results. During several days of successive storms we were imprisoned in +the domes of snow. By enforced idleness we were compelled to use a +precious store of food and fuel, without making any necessary advance. + +Serious difficulties were encountered in moving from Cape Clarence to +Cape Faraday. Here the ice was tumbled into mountains of trouble. +Tremendous snowdrifts and persistent gales from the west made traveling +next to impossible, and, with no game and no food supply in prospect, I +knew that to remain idle would be suicidal. The sledge load was +lightened, and every scrap of fur which was not absolutely necessary was +thrown away. The humid boots, stockings and sealskin coats could not be +dried out, for fuel was more precious than clothing. All of this was +discarded, and, with light sleds and reduced rations, we forced along +over hummocks and drift. In all of our Polar march we had seen no ice +which offered so much hardship as did this so near home shores. The +winds again cut gashes across our faces. With overwork and insufficient +food, our furs hung on bony eminences over shriveled skins. + +At the end of thirty-five days of almost ceaseless toil we managed to +reach Cape Faraday. Our food was gone. We were face to face with the +most desperate problem which had fallen to our long run of hard luck. +Famine confronted us. We were far from the haunts of game; we had seen +no living thing for a month. Every fiber of our bodies quivered with +cold and hunger. In desperation we ate bits of skin and chewed tough +walrus lines. A half candle and three cups of hot water served for +several meals. Some tough walrus hide was boiled and eaten with relish. +While trying to masticate this I broke some of my teeth. It was hard on +the teeth, but easy on the stomach, and it had the great advantage of +dispelling for prolonged periods the pangs of hunger. But only a few +strips of walrus line were left after this was used. + +Traveling, as we must, in a circuitous route, there was still a +distance of one hundred miles between us and Cape Sabine, and the +distance to Greenland might, by open water, be spread to two hundred +miles. This unknown line of trouble could not be worked out in less than +a month. Where, I asked in desperation, were we to obtain subsistence +for that last thirty days? + +To the eastward, a line of black vapors indicated open water about +twenty-five miles off shore. There were no seals on the ice. There were +no encouraging signs of life; only old imprints of bears and foxes were +left on the surface of the cheerless snows at each camp. For a number of +days we had placed our last meat as bait to attract the bears, but none +had ventured to pay us a visit. The offshore wind and the nearness of +the open water gave us some life from this point. + +Staggering along one day, we suddenly saw a bear track. These mute +marks, seen in the half-dark of the snow, filled us with a wild +resurgence of hope for life. On the evening of March 20 we prepared +cautiously for the coming of the bear. + +A snowhouse was built, somewhat stronger than usual; before it a shelf +was arranged with blocks of snow, and on this shelf attractive bits of +skin were arranged to imitate the dark outline of a recumbent seal. Over +this was placed a looped line, through which the head and neck must go +in order to get the bait. Other loops were arranged to entangle the +feet. All the lines were securely fastened to solid ice. Peepholes were +cut in all sides of the house, and a rear port was cut, from which we +might escape or make an attack. Our lances and knives were now carefully +sharpened. When all was ready, one of us remained on watch while the +others sought a needed sleep. We had not long to wait. Soon a crackling +sound on the snows gave the battle call, and with a little black nose +extended from a long neck, a vicious creature advanced. + +Through our little eye-opening and to our empty stomach he appeared +gigantic. Apparently as hungry as we were, he came in straight reaches +for the bait. The run port was opened. Ah-we-lah and E-tuk-i-shook +emerged, one with a lance, the other with a spiked harpoon shaft. Our +lance, our looped line, our bow and arrow, I knew, however, would be +futile. + +During the previous summer, when I foresaw a time of famine, I had taken +my four last cartridges and hid them in my clothing. Of the existence of +these, the two boys knew nothing. These were to be used at the last +stage of hunger, to kill something--or ourselves. That desperate time +had not arrived till now. + +The bear approached in slow, measured steps, smelling the ground where +the skin lay. + +I jerked the line. The loop tightened about the bear's neck. At the same +moment the lance and the spike were driven into the growling creature. + +A fierce struggle ensued. I withdrew one of the precious cartridges from +my pocket, placed it in my gun, and gave the gun to Ah-we-lah, who took +aim and fired. When the smoke cleared, the bleeding bear lay on the +ground. + +We skinned the animal, and devoured the warm, steaming flesh. Strength +revived. Here were food and fuel in abundance. We were saved! With the +success of this encounter, we could sit down and live comfortably for a +month; and before that time should elapse seals would seek the ice for +sun baths, and when seals arrived, the acquisition of food for the march +to Greenland would be easy. + +But we did not sit down. Greenland was in sight; and, to an Eskimo, +Greenland, with all of its icy discomforts, has attractions not promised +in heaven. In this belief, as in most others, I was Eskimo by this time. +With very little delay, the stomach was spread with chops, and we +stretched to a gluttonous sleep, only to awake with appetites that +permitted of prolonged stuffing. It was a matter of economy to fill up +and thus make the sled load lighter. When more eating was impossible we +began to move for home shores, dragging a sled overloaded with the +life-saving prize. + +A life of trouble, however, lay before us. Successive storms, mountains +of jammed ice, and deep snow, interrupted our progress and lengthened +the course over circuitous wastes of snowdrifts and blackened our +horizon. When, after a prodigious effort, Cape Sabine was reached, our +food supply was again exhausted.[18] + +Here an old seal was found. It had been caught a year before and cached +by Pan-ic-pa, the father of E-tuk-i-shook. With it was found a rude +drawing spotted with sooty tears. This told the story of a loving +father's fruitless search for his son and friends. The seal meat had the +aroma of Limburger cheese, and age had changed its flavor; but, with no +other food possible, our palates were easily satisfied. In an oil-soaked +bag was found about a pound of salt. We ate this as sugar, for no salt +had passed over our withered tongues for over a year. + +The skin, blubber and meat were devoured with a relish. Every eatable +part of the animal was packed on the sled as we left the American shore. + +Smith Sound was free of ice, and open water extended sixty miles +northward. A long detour was necessary to reach the opposite shores, but +the Greenland shores were temptingly near. With light hearts and +cheering premonitions of home, we pushed along Bache Peninsula to a +point near Cape Louis Napoleon. The horizon was now cleared of trouble. +The ascending sun had dispelled the winter gloom of the land. Leaping +streams cut through crystal gorges. The ice moved; the sea began to +breathe. The snows sparkled with the promise of double days and midnight +suns. + +Life's buds had opened to full blossom. On the opposite shores, which +now seemed near, Nature's incubators had long worked overtime to start +the little ones of the wilds. Tiny bears danced to their mothers' call; +baby seals sunned in downy pelts. Little foxes were squinting at school +in learning the art of sight. In the wave of germinating joys our +suppressed nocturnal passions rose with surprise anew. We were raised to +an Arctic paradise. + +As it lay in prospect, Greenland had the charm of Eden. There were the +homes of my savage companions. It was a stepping-stone to my home, still +very far off. It was a land where man has a fighting chance for his +life. + +In reality, we were now in the most desperate throes of the grip of +famine which we had encountered during all of our hard experience. +Greenland was but thirty miles away. But we were separated from it by +impossible open water--a hopeless stormy deep. To this moment I do not +know why we did not sit down and allow the blood to cool with famine and +cold. We had no good reason to hope that we could cross, but again +hope--"the stuff that goes to make dreams"--kept our eyes open. + +We started. We were as thin as it is possible for men to be. The scraps +of meat, viscera, and skin of the seal, buried for a year, was now our +sole diet. We traveled the first two days northward over savage uplifts +of hummocks and deep snows, tripping and stumbling over blocks of ice +like wounded animals. Then we reached good, smooth ice, but open water +forced us northward, ever northward from the cheering cliffs under which +our Greenland homes and abundant supplies were located. No longer +necessary to lift the feet, we dragged the ice-sheeted boots step after +step over smooth young ice. This eased our tired, withered legs, and +long distances were covered. The days were prolonged, the decayed seal +food ran low, water was almost impossible. Life no longer seemed worth +living. We had eaten the strips of meat and frozen seal cautiously. We +had eaten other things--our very boots and leather lashings as a last +resort. + +So weak that we had to climb on hands and knees, we reached the top of +an iceberg, and from there saw Annoatok. Natives, who had thought us +long dead, rushed out to greet us. There I met Mr. Harry Whitney. As I +held his hand, the cheer of a long-forgotten world came over me. With +him I went to my house, only to find that during my absence it had been +confiscated. A sudden bitterness rose within which it was difficult to +hide. A warm meal dispelled this for a time. + +In due time I told Whitney: "I have reached the Pole." + +Uttering this for the first time in English, it came upon me that I was +saying a remarkable thing. Yet Mr. Whitney showed no great surprise, and +his quiet congratulation confirmed what was in my mind--that I had +accomplished no extraordinary or unbelievable thing; for to me the Polar +experience was not in the least remarkable, considered with our later +adventures. + +Mr. Whitney, as is now well known, was a sportsman from New Haven, +Connecticut, who had been spending some months hunting in the North. He +had made Annoatok the base of his operations, and had been spending the +winter in the house which I had built of packing-boxes. + +The world now seemed brighter. The most potent factor in this change was +food--and more food--a bath and another bath--and clean clothes. Mr. +Whitney offered me unreservedly the hospitality of my own camp. He +instructed Pritchard to prepare meal after meal of every possible dish +that our empty stomachs had craved for a year. The Eskimo boys were +invited to share it. + +Between meals, or perhaps we had better call meals courses (for it was a +continuous all-night performance--interrupted by baths and breathing +spells to prevent spasms of the jaws)--between courses, then, there were +washes with real soap and real cleansing warm water, the first that we +had felt for fourteen months. Mr. Whitney helped to scrape my angular +anatomy, and he volunteered the information that I was the dirtiest man +he ever saw. + +From Mr. Whitney I learned that Mr. Peary had reached Annoatok about the +middle of August, 1908, and had placed a boatswain named Murphy, +assisted by William Pritchard, a cabin boy on the _Roosevelt_, in charge +of my stores, which he had seized. Murphy was anything but tactful and +considerate; and in addition to taking charge of my goods, had been +using them in trading as money to pay for furs to satisfy Mr. Peary's +hunger for commercial gain. Murphy went south in pursuit of furs after +my arrival. + +For the first few days I was too weak to inquire into the theft of my +camp and supplies. Furthermore, with a full stomach, and Mr. Whitney as +a warm friend at hand, I was indifferent. I was not now in any great +need. For by using the natural resources of the land, as I had done +before, it was possible to force a way back to civilization from here +with the aid of my Eskimo friends. + +Little by little, however, the story of that very strange "Relief +Station for Dr. Cook" was unraveled, and I tell it here with no ulterior +notion of bitterness against Mr. Peary. I forgave him for the practical +theft of my supplies; but this is a very important part of the +controversy which followed, a controversy which can be understood only +by a plain statement of the incidents which led up to and beyond this +so-called "Relief Station for Dr. Cook," which was a relief only in the +sense that I was relieved of a priceless store of supplies. + +When Mr. Peary heard of the execution of my plans to try for the Pole in +1907, and before he left on his last expedition, he accused me of +various violations of what he chose to call "Polar Ethics." No +application had been filed by me to seek the Pole. Now I was accused of +stealing his route, his Pole, and his people. This train of accusations +was given to the press, and with the greatest possible publicity. A part +of this was included in an official complaint to the International +Bureau of Polar Research at Brussels. + +Now, what are Polar ethics? There is no separate code for the Arctic. +The laws which govern men's bearing towards each other in New York are +good in any part of the world. One cannot be a democrat in civilized +eyes and an autocrat in the savage world. One cannot cry, "Stop thief!" +and then steal the thief's booty. If you are a member of the brotherhood +of humanity in one place, you must be in another. In short, he who is a +gentleman in every sense of the word needs no memory for ethics. It is +only the modern political reformer who has need of the cloak of the +hypocrisy of ethics to hide his own misdeeds. An explorer should not +stoop to this. + +Who had the power to grant a license to seek the Pole? If you wish to +invade the forbidden regions of Thibet, or the interior of Siberia, a +permit is necessary from the governments interested. But the Pole is a +place no nation owned, by right of discovery, occupation, or otherwise. + +If pushing a ship up the North Atlantic waters to the limit of +navigation was a trespass on Mr. Peary's preserve, then I am bound to +plead guilty. But ships had gone that way for a hundred years before Mr. +Peary developed a Polar claim. If I am guilty, then he is guilty of +stealing the routes of Davis, Kane, Greely and a number of others. But +as I view the situation, a modern explorer should take a certain pride +in the advantages afforded by his worthy predecessors. I take a certain +historic delight in having followed the routes of the early pathfinders +to a more remote destination. This indebtedness and this honor I do now, +as heretofore, acknowledge. The charge that I stole Mr. Peary's route is +incorrect. For, from the limit of navigation on the Greenland side, my +track was forced over a land which, although under Mr. Peary's eyes for +twenty years, was explored by Sverdrup, who got the same unbrotherly +treatment from Mr. Peary which he has shown to every explorer who has +had the misfortune to come within the circle he has drawn about an +imaginary private preserve. + +The charge of borrowing Peary's ideas, by which is meant the selection +of food and supplies and the adoption of certain methods of travel, is +equally unfounded. For Mr. Peary's weakest chain is his absolute lack of +system, order, preparation or originality. This is commented upon by the +men of every one of his previous expeditions. Mr. Peary early charged +that my system of work and my methods of travel were borrowed from him. +This was not true; but when he later, in a desperate effort to say +unkind things, said that my system--the system borrowed from +himself--was inefficient, the charge becomes laughable. As to the +Pole--if Mr. Peary has a prior lien on it--it is there still. We did not +take it away. We simply left our footprints there. + +Now as to the charge of using Mr. Peary's supplies and his people--by +assuming a private preserve of all the reachable Polar wilderness of +this section, he might put up a plausible claim to it as a private +hunting ground. If this claim is good, then I am guilty of trespass. But +it was only done to satisfy the pangs of hunger. + +This claim of the ownership of the animals of the unclaimed North might +be put with plausible excuses to The Hague Tribunal. But it is a claim +no serious person would consider. The same claim of ownership, however, +cannot be said of human life. + +The Eskimos are a free and independent people. They acknowledge no +chiefs among themselves and submit to no outside dictators. They are +likely to call an incoming stranger "nalegaksook," which the vanity of +the early travelers interpreted as the "great chief." But the intended +interpretation is "he who has much to barter" or "the great trader." +This is what they call Mr. Peary. The same compliment is given to other +traders, whalers or travelers with whom they do business. Despite his +claims Mr. Peary has been regarded as no more of a benefactor than any +other explorer. + +After delivering, early in 1907, an unreasonable and uncalled for +attack, Mr. Peary, two months after the Pole had been reached by me, +went North with two ships, with all the advantage that unlimited funds +and influential friends could give. At about the same time my companion, +Rudolph Francke, started south under my instructions, and he locked my +box-house at Annoatok wherein were stored supplies sufficient for two +years or more. + +The key was entrusted to a trustworthy Eskimo. Under his protection this +precious life-saving supply was safe for an indefinite time. With it no +relief expedition or help from the outside world was necessary. + +Francke had a hard time as he pushed southward, with boat and sledge. +Moving supplies to the limit of his carrying capacity, he fought bravely +against storms, broken ice and thundering seas. The route proved all but +impossible, but at last his destination at North Star was reached, only +for him to find that he was too late for the whalers he had expected. +Impossible to return to our northern camp at that time, and having used +all of his civilized food en route, he was now compelled to accept the +hospitality of the natives, in their unhygienic dungeons. For food there +was nothing but the semi-putrid meat and blubber eaten by the Eskimos. +After a long and desperate task by boat and sled he returned to Etah but +he was absolutely unable to proceed farther. Francke's health failed +rapidly and when, as he thought, the time had arrived to lay down and +quit life, a big prosperous looking ship came into the harbor. He had +not tasted civilized food for months, and longed, as only a sick, hungry +man can, for coffee and bread. + +Almost too weak to arise from his couch of stones, he mustered up enough +strength to stumble over the rails of that ship of plenty. After +gathering sufficient breath to speak, he asked for bread and coffee. It +was breakfast time. No answer came to that appeal. He was put off the +ship. He went back to his cheerless cave and prayed that death might +close his eyes to further trouble. Somewhat later, when it was learned +that there was a house and a large store of supplies at Annoatok, and +that the man had in his possession furs and ivory valued at $10,000, +there was a change of heart in Mr. Peary. Francke was called on board, +was given bread and coffee and whiskey. Too weak to resist, he was +bullied and frightened, and forced under duress to sign papers which he +did not understand. To get home to him meant life; to remain meant +death. And the ship before him was thus his only chance for life. Under +the circumstances he would naturally have put his name to any paper +placed under his feeble eyes. But the law of no land would enforce such +a document. + +In this way Mr. Peary compelled him to turn over $10,000 worth of furs +and ivory, besides my station and supplies, worth at least $35,000, +which were not his to turn over. The prized ivory tusks and furs were +immediately seized and sent back on the returning ship. + +One of the narwhal tusks, worth to me at least $1,000, was polished and +sent as Peary's trophy to President Roosevelt. Under the circumstances +has not the President been made the recipient of stolen goods? + +When Francke, as a passenger, returned on the Peary supply ship, _Erik_, +a bill of one hundred dollars was presented for his passage. This bill +was presumably the bill for the full cost of his return. But the +priceless furs and ivory trophies were confiscated without a murmur of +conscious wrongdoing. This is what happened as the ship went south. + +Now let us follow the ship _Roosevelt_ in its piratic career northward. +With Mr. Peary as chief it got to Etah. From there instructions were +given to seize my house and supplies. This was done over the signature +of Mr. Peary to a paper which started out with the following shameless +hypocrisy: + +"This is a relief station for Dr. Cook." + +According to Mr. Whitney even Captain Bartlett quivered with indignation +at the blushing audacity of this steal. The stores were said to be +abandoned. The men, with Peary's orders, went to Koo-loo-ting-wah and +forced from him the key with which to open the carefully guarded stores. +The house was reconstructed. + +Murphy, a rough Newfoundland bruiser, who had been accustomed to kick +sailors, was placed in charge with autocratic powers. Murphy could +neither read nor write, but he was given a long letter of instruction to +make a trading station of my home and to use my supplies. + +Now if Mr. Peary required my supplies for legitimate exploration I +should have been glad to give him my last bread; but to use my things to +satisfy his greed for commercial gain was, when I learned it, bitter +medicine. + +Because Murphy could not write, Pritchard was left with him to read the +piratic instructions once each week. Pritchard was also to keep account +of the furs bought and the prices paid--mostly in my coin. Murphy soon +forbade the reading of the instructions, and also stopped the +stock-taking and bookkeeping. The hypocrisy of the thing seemed to pinch +even Murphy's narrow brain. + +This same deliberate Murphy, accustomed to life in barracks, held the +whip for a year over the head of Harry Whitney, a man of culture and +millions. Money, however, was of no use there. Audacity and self-assumed +power, it seems, ruled as it did in times of old when buccaneers +deprived their victims of gold, and walked them off a plank into the +briny deep. + +Murphy and Pritchard, the paid traders, fixed themselves cosily in my +camp. Mr. Whitney had been invited as a guest to stay and hunt for his +own pleasure. The party lived for a year at my expense, but the lot of +Whitney was very hard as an invited guest, a privilege for which I was +told he had paid Mr. Peary two thousand dollars or more. His decision to +stay had come only after a disappointment in a lack of success of +hunting during the summer season. He was, therefore, ill-provided for +the usual Polar hardships. With no food, and no adequate clothing of his +own, he was dependent on the dictates of Murphy to supply him. As time +went on, the night with its awful cold advanced. Murphy gathered in all +the furs and absolutely prohibited Whitney from getting suitable furs +for winter clothing. He, therefore, shivered throughout the long winter +in his sheepskin shooting outfit. Several times he was at the point of a +hand-to-hand encounter with Murphy, but with young Pritchard as a friend +and gentlemanly instincts to soften his manner, he grit his teeth and +swallowed the insults. + +His ambition for a hunting trip was frustrated because it interfered +with Murphy's plans for trading in skins. The worst and most brutal +treatment was the almost inconceivable cruelty of his not allowing Mr. +Whitney enough food for a period of months, not even of my supplies, +although this food was used eventually to feed useless dogs. + +All of this happened under Mr. Peary's authority, and under the coarse, +swaggering Murphy, whom Mr. Peary, in his book, calls "a thoroughly +trustworthy man!" Mr. Peary's later contention, in a hypocritical effort +to clear himself (see "The North Pole," page 76) that he placed Murphy +in charge "to prevent the Eskimos from looting the supplies and +equipment left there by Dr. Cook," is a mean, petty and unworthy slur +upon a brave, loyal people, among whom thievery is a thing unknown. +Unknown, yes, save when white men without honor, without respect for +property or the ethics of humanity, which the Eskimos instinctively +have, invade their region and rob them and fellow explorers with the +brazenness of middle-aged buccaneers. + + + + +ANNOATOK TO UPERNAVIK + +ELEVEN HUNDRED MILES SOUTHWARD OVER SEA AND LAND--AT ETAH--OVERLAND TO +THE WALRUS GROUNDS--ESKIMO COMEDIES AND TRAGEDIES--A RECORD RUN OVER +MELVILLE BAY--FIRST NEWS FROM PASSING SHIPS--THE ECLIPSE OF THE +SUN--SOUTHWARD BY STEAMER GODTHAAB + +XXX + +ALONG DANISH GREENLAND + + +A few interesting days were spent with Mr. Whitney at Annoatok. The +Eskimos, in the meantime, had all gone south to the walrus hunting +grounds at Nuerke. Koo-loo-ting-wah came along with a big team of dogs. +Here was an opportunity to attempt to reach the Danish settlements--for +to get home quickly was now my all-absorbing aim. Koo-loo-ting-wah was +in my service. He was guarding my supplies in 1908 when the ship +_Roosevelt_ had come along. He had been compelled to give up the key to +my box-house. He had been engaged to place supplies for us and search +the American shores for our rescue. Peary, making a pretended "Relief +Station," forced Koo-loo-ting-wah from his position as guardian of my +supplies, and forbade him to engage in any effort to search for us, and +absolutely prohibited him and everybody else, including Murphy, +Prichard and Whitney, from engaging in any kind of succor at a time when +help was of consequence. Koo-loo-ting-wah was liberally paid to abandon +my interests (by Mr. Peary's orders, from my supplies), but, like +Bartlett and Whitney and Prichard later, he condemned Mr. Peary for his +unfair acts. When asked to join me in the long journey to Upernavik, he +said, "_Peari an-nutu_" (Peary will be mad.) Koo-loo-ting-wah was now in +Peary's service at my expense, and I insisted that he enter my service, +which he did. Then we began our preparations for the southern trip. + +Accompanied by Whitney, I went to Etah, and for this part of the journey +Murphy grudgingly gave me a scant food supply for a week, for which I +gave him a memorandum. This memorandum was afterwards published by Mr. +Peary as a receipt, so displayed as to convey the idea that all the +stolen supplies had been replaced. + +At Etah was a big cache which had been left a year before by Captain +Bernier, the commander of a northern expedition sent out by the Canadian +Government, and which had been placed in charge of Mr. Whitney. In this +cache were food, new equipment, trading material, and clean underclothes +which Mrs. Cook had sent on the Canadian expedition. With this new store +of suitable supplies, I now completed my equipment for the return to +civilization.[19] + +To get home quickly, I concluded, could be done best by going to the +Danish settlements in Greenland, seven hundred miles south, and thence +to Europe by an early steamer. From Upernavik mail is carried in small +native boats to Umanak, where there is direct communication with Europe +by government steamers. By making this journey, and taking a fast boat +to America, I calculated I could reach New York in early July. + +Mr. Whitney expected the _Erik_ to arrive to take him south in the +following August. Going, as he planned, into Hudson Bay, he expected to +reach New York in October. Although this would be the easiest and safest +way to reach home, by the route I had planned I hoped to reach New York +four months earlier than the _Erik_ would. + +The journey from Etah to Upernavik is about seven hundred miles--a +journey as long and nearly as difficult as the journey to the North +Pole. I knew it involved difficulties and risks--the climbing of +mountains and glaciers, the crossing of open leads of water late in the +season, when the ice is in motion and snow is falling, and the dragging +of sledges through slush and water. + +Mr. Whitney, in view of these dangers, offered to take care of my +instruments, notebooks and flag, and take them south on his ship. I knew +that if any food were lost on my journey it might be replaced by game. +Instruments lost in glaciers or open seas could not be replaced. The +instruments, moreover, had served their purposes. The corrections, +notes, and other data were also no longer needed; all my observations +had been reduced, and the corrections were valuable only for a future +re-examination. This is why I did not take them with me. It is +customary, also, to leave corrections with instruments. + +In the box which I gave to Mr. Whitney were packed one French sextant; +one surveying compass, aluminum, with azimuth attachment; one artificial +horizon, set in a thin metal frame adjusted by spirit levels and +thumbscrews; one aneroid barometer, aluminum; one aluminum case with +maximum and minimum spirit thermometer; other thermometers, and also one +liquid compass. All of these I had carried with me. + +Besides these were left other instruments used about the relief station. +There were papers giving instrumental corrections, readings, +comparisons, and other notes; a small diary, mostly of loose leaves, +containing some direct field readings, and meteorological data. These +were packed in one of the instrument cases. By special request of Mr. +Whitney, I also left my flag. + +In addition, I placed in Mr. Whitney's charge several big cases of +clothing and supplies which Mrs. Cook had sent, also ethnological +collections, furs, and geological specimens. In one of these boxes were +packed the instrument cases and notes. + +Mr. Whitney's plans later were changed. His ship, the _Erik_, not +having arrived when Peary returned, Whitney arranged with Peary to come +back to civilization on the latter's ship, the _Roosevelt_. As I learned +afterwards, when the _Roosevelt_ arrived Mr. Whitney took from one of my +packing boxes my instruments and packed them in his trunk. He was, +however, prohibited from carrying my things, and all my belongings were +consequently left at the mercy of the weather and the natives in far-off +Greenland. I have had no means of hearing from them since, so that I do +not know what has become of them. + +About Etah and Annoatok and on my eastward journey few notes were made. +As well as I can remember, I left Annoatok some time during the third +week of April. On leaving Whitney, I promised to send him dogs and +guides for his prospective hunting trip. I also promised to get for him +furs for a suitable winter suit--because, according to Mr. Peary's +autocratic methods, he had been denied the privilege of trading for +himself. He was not allowed to gather trophies, or to purchase +absolutely necessary furs, nor was he accorded the courtesy of arranging +for guides and dogs with the natives for his ambition to get big game. +All of this I was to arrange for Whitney as I passed the villages +farther south. + +In crossing by the overland route, over Crystal Palace Glacier to Sontag +Bay, we were caught in a violent gale, which buried us in drifts on the +highlands. Descending to the sea, we entered a new realm of coming +summer joys. + +Moving along to Neurke, we found a big snowhouse village. All had +gathered for the spring walrus chase. Many animals had been caught, and +the hunters were in a gluttonous stupor from continued overfeeding. It +was not long before we, too, filled up, and succumbed to similar +pleasures. + +My boys were here, and the principal pastime was native gossip about the +North Pole. + +Arriving among their own people here, Ah-we-lah and E-tuk-i-shook +recounted their remarkable journey. They had, of course, no definite +idea of where they had been, but told of the extraordinary journey of +seven moons; of their reaching a place where there was no game and no +life; of their trailing over the far-off seas where the sun did not dip +at night, and of their hunting, on our return, with slingshots, string +traps, and arrows. These were their strong and clear impressions.[20] + +From Neurke we crossed Murchison Sound, along the leads where the walrus +was being hunted, and from there we set a course for the eastern point +of Northumberland Island. + +We next entered Inglefield Gulf. Our party had grown. Half of the +natives were eager to join us on a pilgrimage to the kindly and beloved +Danes of Southern Greenland; but, because of the advancing season, the +marches must be forced, and because a large sled train hinders rapid +advancement, I reduced the numbers and changed the personnel of my party +as better helpers offered services. + +From a point near Itiblu we ascended the blue slopes of a snow-free +glacier, and after picking a dangerous footing around precipitous +cliffs, we rose to the clouds and deep snows of the inland ice. Here, +for twenty-four hours, we struggled through deep snow, with only the +wind to give direction to our trail. Descending from this region of +perpetual mist and storm, we came down to the sea in Booth Sound. From +here, after a good rest, over splendid ice, in good weather, we entered +Wolstenholm Sound. At Oomonoi there was a large gathering of natives, +and among these we rested and fed up in preparation for the long, +hazardous trip which lay before us. + +In this locality, the Danish Literary Expedition, under the late Mylius +Ericksen, had wintered. Their forced march northward from Upernavik +proved so desperate that they were unable to carry important +necessaries. + +But the natives, with characteristic generosity, had supplied the Danes +with the meat for food and the fat for fuel, which kept them alive +during dangerous and trying times.[21] + +We now started for Cape York. My-ah, Ang-ad-loo and I-o-ko-ti were +accepted as permanent members of my party. All of this party was, +curiously enough, hostile to Mr. Peary, and the general trend of +conversation was a bitter criticism of the way the people had been +fleeced of furs and ivory; how a party had been left to die of cold and +hunger at Fort Conger; how, at Cape Sabine, many died of a sickness +which had been brought among them, and how Dr. Dedrick was not allowed +to save their lives; how a number had been torn from their homes and +taken to New York, where they had died of barbarous ill-treatment; how +their great "Iron Stone," their only source of iron for centuries, the +much-prized heritage of their nation, had been stolen from the point we +were now nearing; and so on, throughout a long line of other abuses. +But, at the time, all of this bitterness seemed to soften my own +resentment, and I began to cherish a forgiving spirit toward Mr. Peary. +After all, thought I, I have been successful; let us have an end of +discord and seek a brighter side of life. + +Now I began to think for the first time of the public aspect of my +homegoing. Heretofore my anticipations had been centered wholly in the +joys of a family reunion, but now the thought was slowly forced as to +the attitude which others would take towards me. In the wildest flights +of my imagination I never dreamed of any world-wide interest in the +Pole. Again I desire to emphasize the fact that every movement I have +made disproves the allegation that I planned to perpetrate a gigantic +fraud upon the world. Men had been seeking the North Pole for years, and +at no time had any of these many explorers aroused any general interest +in his expedition or the results. + +Millions of money, hundreds of lives, had been sacrificed. The complex +forces of great nations had been arrayed unsuccessfully. I had believed +the thing could be done by simpler methods, without the sacrifice of +life, without using other people's money; and, with this conviction, had +gone north. I now came south, with no expectations of reward except such +as would come from a simple success in a purely private undertaking. + +I wish to emphasize that I regarded my entire experience as something +purely personal. I supposed that the newspapers would announce my +return, and that there would be a three days' breath of attention, and +that that would be all. So far as I was personally concerned, my chief +thought was one of satisfaction at having satisfied myself, and an +intense longing for home. + +We camped at Cape York. Before us was the great white expanse of +Melville Bay to the distant Danish shores. Few men had ever ventured +over this. What luck was in store for us could not be guessed. But we +were ready for every emergency. We moved eastward to an island where the +natives greeted us with enthusiasm, and then we started over treacherous +ice southward. The snow was not deep; the ice proved fairly smooth. The +seals, basking in the new summer sun, augmented our supplies. Frequent +bear tracks added the spirit of the chase, which doubled our speed. In +two days we had the "Devil's Thumb" to our left, and at the end of three +and a half days the cheer of Danish cliffs and semi-civilized Eskimos +came under our eyes. + +The route from Annoatok to this point, following the circuitous twists +over sea and land, was almost as long as that from Annoatok to the Pole, +but we had covered it in less than a month. With a record march across +Melville Bay, we had crossed a long line of trouble, in which Mylius +Ericksen and his companions nearly succumbed after weeks of frosty +torture. We had done it in a few days, and in comfort, with the luxury +of abundant food gathered en route. + +Behind the Danish archipelago, traveling was good and safe. As we went +along, from village to village, the Eskimos told the story of the Polar +conquest. Rapidly we pushed along to Tassuasak, which we reached in the +middle of May. This is one of the small trading posts belonging to the +district of Upernavik. + +At Tassuasak I met Charles Dahl, a congenial Danish official, with whom +I stayed a week. He spoke only Danish, which I did not understand. +Despite the fact that our language was unintelligible, we talked until +two or three o'clock in the morning, somehow conveying our thoughts, and +when he realized what I told him he took my hand, offering warm, +whole-souled Norse appreciation. + +Here I secured for Mr. Whitney tobacco and other needed supplies. For +the Eskimos, various presents were bought, all of which were packed on +the returning sleds. Then the time arrived to bid the final adieu to my +faithful wild men of the Far North. Tears took the place of words in +that parting. + +By sledge and oomiak (skin boat) I now continued my journey to +Upernavik. + +Upernavik is one of the largest Danish settlements in Greenland and one +of the most important trading posts. It is a small town with a +population of about three hundred Eskimos, who live in box-shaped huts +of turf. The town affords residence for about six Danish officials, who +live, with their families, in comfortable houses. + +I reached there early one morning about May 20, 1909, and went at +once to the house of Governor Kraul. The governor himself--a tall, +bald-headed, dignified man, a bachelor, about fifty years of +age, of genial manner and considerable literary and scientific +attainments--answered my knock on the door. He admitted me hospitably, +and then looked me over from head to foot. + +I was a hard-looking visitor. I wore an old sealskin coat, worn bearskin +trousers, stockings of hare-skin showing above torn seal boots. I was +reasonably dirty. My face was haggard and bronzed, my hair was uncut, +long and straggling. However, I felt reassured in a bath and clean +underclothing secured a week before at Tassuasak. Later these clothes +were replaced by new clothes given me by Governor Kraul, some of which I +wore on my trip to Copenhagen. My appearance was such that I was not +surprised by the governor's question: "Have you any lice on you?" + +Some years before he had entertained some Arctic pilgrims, and a +peculiar breed of parasites remained to plague the village for a long +time. I convinced him that, in spite of my unprepossessing appearance, +he was safe in sheltering me. + +At his house I had all the luxuries of a refined home with a large +library at my disposal. I had also a large, comfortable feather-bed with +clean sheets. I slept for hours every day, devoting about four or five +hours to my work on my notes. + +At breakfast I told Governor Kraul briefly of my journey, and although +he was polite and pleasant, I could see that he was skeptical as to my +having reached the Pole. I remained with him a month, using his pens and +paper putting the finishing touches on my narrative--on which I had done +much work at Cape Sparbo. My notes and papers were scattered about, and +Governor Kraul read them, and as he read them his doubts were dispelled +and he waxed enthusiastic. + +Governor Kraul had had no news of the inside world for about a year. He +was as anxious as I was for letters and papers. I went over his last +year's news with a good deal of interest. While thus engaged, early one +foggy morning, a big steamer came into port. It was the steam whaler +_Morning_ of Dundee. Her master, Captain Adams, came ashore with letters +and news. He recited the remarkable journey of Shackleton to the South +Pole as his opening item in the cycle of the year's incidents. After +that he gave it as his opinion that England had become Americanized in +its politics, and after recounting the year's luck in whaling, sealing +and fishing, he then informed me that from America the greatest news was +the success of "The Merry Widow" and "The Dollar Princess." I was +invited aboard to eat the first beefsteak and first fresh civilized food +that I had eaten in two years. I then told him of my Polar conquest. He +was keenly interested in my story, all of my reports seeming to confirm +his own preconceived ideas of conditions about the Pole. When I went +ashore I took a present of a bag of potatoes. To Governor Kraul and +myself these potatoes proved to be the greatest delicacy, for to both +the flavor and real fresh, mealy potatoes gave our meals the finishing +touches of a fine dessert. + +I gave Captain Adams some information about new hunting grounds which, +as he left, he said would be tried.[22] + +Life at Upernavik was interesting. Among other things, we noted the +total eclipse of the sun on June 17. According to our time, it began in +the evening at eighteen minutes past seven and ended ten minutes after +nine. + +For a number of days the natives had looked with anxiety upon the coming +of the mysterious darkness attending the eclipse, for now we were in a +land of anxiety and uneasiness. It was said that storms would follow +each other, displaying the atmospheric rage; that seals could not be +sought, and that all good people should pray. Although a violent +southwest gale did rush by, the last days before the eclipse were clear +and warm. + +Governor Kraul suggested a camp on the high rocks east. Mr. Anderson, +the governor's assistant, and I joined in the expedition. We took smoked +and amber glasses, a pen and paper, a camera and field glasses. A little +disk was cut out of the northern side of the sun before we started. +There was no wind, and the sky was cloudless. A better opportunity could +not have been afforded. It had been quite warm. The chirp of the snow +bunting and the buzz of bees gave the first joyous rebound of the short +Arctic summer. Small sand-flies rose in clouds, and the waters glittered +with midsummer incandescence. Small groups of natives, in gorgeous +attire, gathered in many places, and occasionally took a sly glance at +the sun as if something was about to happen. They talked in muffled +undertones. + +When one-third of the sun's disk was obscured it was impossible to see +the cut circle with the unprotected eye. It grew perceptibly dark. The +natives quieted and moved toward the church. The birds ceased to sing; +the flies sank to the ground. With the failing light the air quickly +chilled, the bright contour of the land blurred, the deep blue of the +sea faded to a dull purple-blue seemingly lighter, but the midday +splendor of high lights and shadows was lost. The burning glitter of +the waters under the sun now quickly changed to a silvery glow. The +alabaster and ultramarine blue of the icebergs was veiled in gray. + +When a thread of light spread the cut out, we knew that the total +eclipse was over. In what seemed like a few seconds the gloom of night +brightened to the sparkle of noon. + +[Illustration: SAVED FROM STARVATION--THE RESULT OF ONE OF OUR LAST +CARTRIDGES] + +[Illustration: "MILES AND MILES OF DESOLATION." + +HOMEWARD BOUND + +_Copyright_, 1909, "_New York Herald Co._"] + +At the darkest time the natives had called for open church doors, and a +sense of immediate danger came over the savage horizon with the force of +a panic. A single star was visible for about a minute before and after +the total eclipse. A slight salmon flush remained along the western +horizon; otherwise the sky varied in tones of purple-blue. + +After the sea had brightened to its normal luster, Governor Kraul gave +the entire native settlement a feast of figs. + +About June 20, the Danish supply ship, _Godthaab_, with Captain Henning +Shoubye in command, arrived from South Greenland. Inspector Dougaard +Jensen and Handelschef Weche were aboard on a tour of inspection along +the Danish settlements. A corps of scientific observers were also +aboard. Among these were Professors Thompsen and Steensby and Dr. +Krabbe. Governor Kraul asked me to accompany him aboard the _Godthaab_. +Thus I first met this group of men, who afterwards did so much to make +my journey southward to Copenhagen interesting and agreeable. The +Governor told them of the conquest of the Pole. At the time their +interest in the news was not very marked, but later every phase of the +entire trip was thoroughly discussed. + +In a few days the _Godthaab_ sailed from Upernavik to Umanak, and I took +passage on her. Captain Shoubye quietly and persistently questioned me +as to details of my trip. Apparently he became convinced that I was +stating facts, for when we arrived at Umanak, the social metropolis of +North Greenland, the people enthusiastically received me, having been +informed of my feat by the captain. + +After coaling at a place near Umanak we started south. + +At the "King's Guest House" in Eggedesminde, the only hotel in +Greenland, I met Dr. Norman-Hansen, a scientist, with whom I talked. He +questioned me, and a fraternal confidence was soon established. + +Later the _Godthaab_, which took the missionary expedition to the +northernmost Eskimo settlement at North Star Bay and then returned, +arrived from Cape York with Knud Rassmussen and other Danes aboard. They +had a story that my two Eskimos had said I had taken them to the "Big +Nail." + + + + +FROM GREENLAND TO COPENHAGEN + +FOREWARNING OF THE POLAR CONTROVERSY--BANQUET AT EGGEDESMINDE--ON +BOARD THE HANS EGEDE--CABLEGRAMS SENT FROM LERWICK--THE OVATION AT +COPENHAGEN--BEWILDERED AMIDST THE GENERAL ENTHUSIASM--PEARY'S FIRST +MESSAGES--EMBARK ON OSCAR II FOR NEW YORK + +XXXI + +AT THE DANISH METROPOLIS + + +At Eggedesminde was given the first banquet in my honor. At the table +were about twenty people. Knud Rassmussen, the writer, among others +spoke. In an excited talk in Danish, mixed with English and German, he +foretold the return of Mr. Peary and prophesied discord. This made +little impression at the time and was recalled only by later events. + +At this point I wish to express my gratitude and appreciation of the +universal courtesy of which I was the recipient at every Danish +settlement in my southward progress along the coast of Greenland. + +At Eggedesminde Inspector Daugaard-Jensen endeavored to secure an idle +walrus schooner for me. By this I hoped to get to Labrador and thence to +New York. This involved considerable official delay, and I estimated I +could make better time by going to Copenhagen on the _Hans Egede_. +Although every berth on this boat, when it arrived, was engaged, +Inspector Daugaard-Jensen, with the same characteristic kindness and +courtesy shown me by all the Danes, secured for me comfortable quarters. + +On board were a number of scientific men and Danish correspondents. As +the story of my quest had spread along the Greenland coast, and as +conflicting reports might be sent out, Inspector Daugaard-Jensen +suggested that I cable a first account to the world. + +The anxiety of the newspaper correspondents on board gave me the idea +that my story might have considerable financial value. I was certainly +in need of money. I had only forty or fifty dollars and I needed +clothing and money for my passage from Copenhagen to New York. + +The suggestions and assistance of Inspector Daugaard-Jensen were very +helpful. Iceland and the Faroe Islands, frequent ports of call for the +Danish steamers, because of a full passenger list and the absence of +commercial needs, were not visited by the _Hans Egede_ on this return +trip. The captain decided to put into Lerwick, in the Shetland Islands, +so that I could send my message. + +I prepared a story of about 2,000 words, and went ashore at Lerwick. No +one but myself and a representative of the captain was allowed to land. +We swore the cable operator to secrecy, sent several official and +private messages, and one to James Gordon Bennett briefly telling of my +discovery. As the operator refused to be responsible for the press +message, it was left with the Danish consul. To Mr. Bennett I cabled: +"Message left in care of Danish consul, 2,000 words. For it $3,000 +expected. If you want it, send for it." + +Our little boat pulled back to the _Hans Egede_, and the ship continued +on her journey to Copenhagen. Two days passed. On board we talked of my +trip as quite a commonplace thing. I made some appointments for a short +stay in Copenhagen. + +Off the Skaw, the northernmost point of Denmark, a Danish man-of-war +came alongside us. There was a congratulatory message from the Minister +of State. This greatly surprised me. + +Meanwhile a motor boat puffed over the unsteady sea and a half dozen +seasick newspaper men, looking like wet cats, jumped over the rails. +They had been permitted to board on the pretext that they had a message +from the American Minister, Dr. Egan. I took them to my cabin and asked +whether the New York _Herald_ had printed my cable. The correspondent of +the _Politiken_ drew out a Danish paper in which I recognized the story. +I talked with the newspaper men for five minutes and my prevailing +impression was that they did not know what they wanted. They told me +Fleet Street had moved to Copenhagen. I confess all of this seemed +foolish at the time. + +They told me that dinners and receptions awaited me at Copenhagen. That +puzzled me, and when I thought of my clothes I became distressed. I wore +a dirty, oily suit. I had only one set of clean linen and one cap. After +consulting with the Inspector we guessed at my measurements, and a +telegram was written to a tailor at Copenhagen to have some clothing +ready for me. At Elsinore cables began to arrive, and thence onward I +became a helpless leaf on a whirlwind of excitement. I let the people +about plan and think for me, and had a say in nothing. A cable from Mr. +Bennett saying that he had never paid $3,000 so willingly gave me +pleasure. There was relief in this, too, for my expenses at the hotel in +Eggedesminde and on the _Hans Egede_ were unpaid. + +At Elsinore many people came aboard with whom I shook hands and muttered +inanities in response to congratulations. Reporters who were not seasick +thronged the ship, each one insisting on a special interview. Why should +I be interviewed? It seemed silly to make such a fuss. + +Cablegrams and letters piled in my cabin. With my usual methodical +desire to read and answer all communications I sat down to this task, +which soon seemed hopeless. I was becoming intensely puzzled, and a +not-knowing-where-I-was-at sensation confused me. I did not have a +minute for reflection, and before I could approximate my situation, we +arrived at Copenhagen. + +Like a bolt from the blue, there burst about me the clamor of +Copenhagen's ovation. I was utterly bewildered by it. I found no reason +in my mind for it. About the North Pole I had never felt such +exultation. I could not bring myself to feel what all this indicated, +that I had accomplished anything extraordinarily marvelous. For days I +could not grasp the reason for the world-excitement. + +When I went on deck, as we approached the city, I saw far in the +distance flags flying. Like a darting army of water bugs, innumerable +craft of all kind were leaping toward us on the sunlit water. Tugs and +motors, rowboats and sailboats, soon surrounded and followed us. The +flags of all nations dangled on the decorated craft. People shouted, it +seemed, in every tongue. Wave after wave of cheering rolled over the +water. Horns blew, there was the sound of music, guns exploded. All +about, balancing on unsteady craft, their heads hooded in black, were +the omnipresent moving-picture-machine operators at work. All this +passed as a moving picture itself, I standing there, dazed, simply +dazed. + +Amidst increasing cheering the _Hans Egede_ dropped anchor. Prince +Christian, the crown prince, Prince Waldemar, King Frederick's brother, +United States Minister Egan, and many other distinguished gentlemen in +good clothes greeted me. That they were people who wore good clothes was +my predominant impression. Mentally I compared their well-tailored +garments with my dirty, soiled, bagged-at-the-knees suit. I doffed my +old dirty cap, and as I shook hands with the Prince Christian and Prince +Waldemar, tall, splendid men, I felt very sheepish. While all this was +going on, I think I forgot about the North Pole. I was most +uncomfortable. + +For a while it was impossible to get ashore. Along the pier to which we +drew, the crowd seemed to drag into the water. About me was a babel of +sound, of which I heard, the whole time, no intelligible word. I was +pushed, lifted ashore, the crown prince before me, William T. Stead, the +English journalist, behind. I almost fell, trying to get a footing. On +both sides the press of people closed upon us. I fought like a swimmer +struggling for life, and, becoming helpless, was pushed and carried +along. I walked two steps on the ground and five on the air. Somebody +grabbed my hat, another pulled off a cuff, others got buttons; but +flowers came in exchange. At times Stead held me from falling. I was +weak and almost stifled. On both sides of me rushed a flood of blurred +human faces. I was in a delirium. I ceased to think, was unable to +think, for hours. + +We finally reached the Meteorological building. I was pushed through the +iron gates. I heard them slammed behind me. I paused to breathe. +Somebody mentioned something about a speech. "My God!" I muttered. I +could no more think than fly. I was pushed onto a balcony. I remember +opening my mouth, but I do not know a word I said. There followed a lot +of noise. I suppose it was applause. Emerging from the black, lonely +Arctic night, the contrast of that rushing flood of human faces +staggered me. Yes, there was another sensation--that of being a stranger +among strange people, in a city where, however much I might be honored, +I had no old-time friend. This curiously depressed me. + +Through a back entrance I was smuggled into an automobile. The late +Commander Hovgaard, a member of the Nordenskjöld expedition, took charge +of affairs, and I was taken to the Phoenix Hotel. Apartments had also +been reserved for me at the Bristol and Angleterre, but I had no voice +in the plans, for which I was glad. + +I was shown to my room and, while washing my face and hands, had a +moment to think. "What the devil is it all about?" I remember repeating +to myself. I was simply dazed. A barber arrived; I submitted to a shave. +Meanwhile a manicure girl appeared and took charge of my hands. Through +the bewildered days that followed, the thought of this girl, like the +obsession of a delirious man, followed me. I had not paid or tipped her, +and with the girl's image a perturbed feeling persisted, "Here is some +one I have wronged." I repeated that over and over again. This shows the +overwrought state of my mind at the time. + +Next the bedroom was a large, comfortable reception room, already filled +with flowers. Beyond that was a large room in which I found many suits +of clothes, some smaller, some bigger than the estimated size wired from +the ship. At this moment there came Mr. Ralph L. Shainwald--an old +friend and a companion of the first expedition to Mt. McKinley. He +selected for me suitable things. Hastily I fell into one of these, and +mechanically put on clean linen--or rather, the clothing was put on by +my attendants. + +Now I was carried to the American Legation, where I lunched with +Minister Egan, and I might have been eating sawdust for all the +impression food made on me. For an hour, I have been told since, I was +plied with questions. It is a strange phenomenon how our bodies will act +and our lips frame words when the mind is blank. I had no more idea of +my answers than the man in the moon. + +Upon my brain, with the quick, nervous twitter of moving-picture +impressions, swam continually the scenes through which I moved. I have a +recollection, on my return to the hotel, of going through hundreds of +telegrams. Just as a man looks at his watch and puts it in his pocket +without noting the time, so I read these messages of congratulation. +Tremendous offers of money from publishers, and for lecture engagements, +and opportunities by which I might become a music-hall attraction +excited no interest one way or another. + +My desire to show appreciation of the hospitality of the Danes by +returning to America on a Danish steamer prevented my even considering +some of these offers. If I had planned to deceive the world for money, +is it reasonable to believe I should have thrown away huge sums for this +simple show of courtesy? + +Having lunched with Minister Egan, I spent part of the afternoon of the +day of my arrival hastily scanning a voluminous pile of correspondence. +Money offers and important messages were necessarily pushed aside. I had +been honored by a summons to the royal presence, and shortly before five +o'clock repaired to the royal palace. + +I still retain in my mental retina a picture of the king. It is a +gracious, kindly memory. Surrounded by the queen and his three +daughters, Princesses Ingeborg, Thyra, and Dagmar, he rose, a +gray-haired, fatherly old man, and with warmness of feeling extended his +hand. Out of that human sea of swirling white faces and staring eyes, in +which I had struggled as a swimmer for life, I remember feeling a sense +of security and rest. We talked, I think, of general topics. + +I returned to the hotel. Into my brain came the words, from some one, +that the newspaper correspondents, representing the great dailies and +magazines of the world, were waiting for me. Would I see them? I went +downstairs and for an hour was grilled with questions. They came like +shots, in many tongues, and only now and then did familiar English words +strike me and quiver in my brain cells. + +I have been told I was self-possessed and calm. Had I gone through +30,000 square miles of land? Was I competent to take observations? Could +I sit down and invent observations? Had I been fully possessed, I +suppose, these sudden doubts expressed would have caused some +wonderment; doubtless I was puzzled below the realm of consciousness, +where, they say, the secret service of the mind grasps the most elusive +things. I have since read my replies and marveled at the lucidity of +certain answers; only my bewilderment, unless I were misquoted, can +explain the absurdity of others. + +My impression of the banquet that night in the City Hall is very vague. +I talked aimlessly. There were speeches, toasts were drunk; I replied. +The North Pole was, I suppose, the subject, but so bewildered was I at +the time, that nothing was further from my mind than the North Pole. If +an idea came now and then it was the feeling that I must get away +without offending these people. I felt the atmosphere of excitement +about me for days, pressing me, crushing me. + +My time was occupied with consultations, receptions, lunches, and +dinners, between which there was a feverish effort to answer +increasingly accumulating telegrams. Mr. E. G. Wyckoff, an old friend, +now came along and took from me certain business cares. By day there was +excitement; by night excitement; there was excitement in my dreams. I +slept no more than five hours a night--if I could call it sleep. + +As a surcease from this turmoil came the evening at King Frederick's +summer palace, where I dined with the royal family and many notable +guests. All were so kindly, the surroundings were so unostentatious, +that for a short while my confusion passed. + +I remember being cornered near a piano after dinner by the young members +of the family and plied with questions. I felt for once absolutely at +ease and told them of the wild animals and exciting hunts of the north. +Otherwise we talked of commonplace topics, and rarely was the North Pole +mentioned. + +Until after midnight, on my return to my hotel, I sat up with the late +Commander Hovgaard and Professor Olafsen, secretary of the Geographical +Society. I clearly recall an afternoon when Professor Torp, rector of +the university, and Professor Elis Stromgren, informed me that the +university desired to honor me with a decoration. Professor Stromgren +asked me about my methods of observation and I explained them freely. He +believed my claim. The question of certain, absolute and detailed proofs +never occurred to me. I was sure of the verity of my claim. I knew I had +been as accurate in my scientific work as anyone could be. + +My first public account of my exploit was delivered before the +Geographical Society on the evening of September 7, and in the presence +of the king and queen, Prince and Princess George of Greece, most of the +members of the royal family, and the most prominent people of +Copenhagen. I had outlined my talk and written parts of it. With the +exception of these, which I read, I spoke extempore. Because of the +probability of the audience not understanding English, I confined +myself to a brief narrative. The audience listened quietly and their +credence seemed but the undemonstrative acceptance of an every-day fact. + +Not knowing that a medal was to be presented to me at that time, I +descended from the platform on concluding my speech. I met the crown +prince, who was ascending, and who spoke to me. I did not understand him +and proceeded to the floor before the stage. Embarrassed by my +misunderstanding, he unfolded his papers and began a presentation +speech. Confused, I remained standing below. Whether I ascended the +stage and made a reply or received the medal from the floor, I do not +now remember. + +During the several days that followed I spent most of my time answering +correspondence and attending to local obligations. An entire day was +spent autographing photographs for members of the royal family. After +much hard work I got things in such shape that I saw my way clear to go +to Brussels, return to Copenhagen, and make an early start for home. + +I had delivered my talk before the Geographical Society. The reporters +had seen me, and assailed me with questions, and had packed their suit +cases. Tired to death and exhausted with want of sleep, I viewed the +prospect of a departure with relief. Because of my condition I refused +an invitation to attend a banquet which the newspaper _Politiken_ gave +to the foreign correspondents at the Tivoli restaurant. + +They insisted that I come, if only for five minutes, and promised that +there would be no attempt at interviewing. I went and listened wearily +to the speeches, made in different languages, and felt no stir at the +applause. While the representative of the _Matin_ was speaking in +French, some one tiptoed up to me and placed a cablegram under my plate. +From all sides attendants appeared with cables which were quietly placed +under the plates of the various reporters. The _Matin_ man stopped; we +looked at the cables. A deadly lull fell in the room. You could have +heard a pin drop. It was Peary's first message--"Stars and Stripes +nailed to the Pole!" + +My first feeling, as I read it, was of spontaneous belief. Well, I +thought, he got there! On my right and left men were arguing about it. +It was declared a hoax. I recognized the characteristic phrasing as +Peary's. I knew that the operators along the Labrador coast knew Peary +and that it would be almost impossible to perpetrate a joke. I told this +to the dinner party. The speeches continued. No reference was made to +the message, but the air seemed charged with electricity. + +My feeling at the news, as I analyze it, was not of envy or chagrin. I +thought of Peary's hard, long years of effort, and I was glad; I felt no +rivalry about the Pole; I did feel, aside from the futility of reaching +the Pole itself, that Peary's trip possibly might be of great scientific +value; that he had probably discovered new lands and mapped new seas of +ice. "There is glory enough for all," I told the reporters. + +At the hotel a pile of telegrams six inches high, from various papers, +awaited me. I picked eight representative papers and made some +diplomatic reply, expressing what I felt. That Peary would contest my +claim never entered my head. It did seem, and still seems, in itself too +inconsequential a thing to make such a fuss about. This may be hard to +believe to those who have magnified the heroism of such an achievement, +a thing I never did feel and could not feel. + +While sitting at the farewell dinner of the Geographical Society the +following day, Mr. Peary's second message, saying that my Eskimos +declared I had not gone far out of sight of land, came to me. Those +about received it with indignation. Many advised me to reply in biting +terms. This I did not do; did not feel like doing. + +Peary's messages caused me to make a change in my plans. Previously I +had accepted an invitation to go to Brussels, but now, as I was being +attacked, I determined to return home immediately and face the charges +in person. I took passage on the steamship _Oscar II_, sailing direct +from Copenhagen to New York. + + + + +COPENHAGEN TO THE UNITED STATES + +ACROSS THE ATLANTIC--RECEPTION IN NEW YORK--BEWILDERING CYCLONE OF +EVENTS--INSIDE NEWS OF THE PEARY ATTACK--HOW THE WEB OF SHAME WAS +WOVEN + +XXXII + +PEARY'S UNDERHAND WORK AT LABRADOR + + +It seemed that, coming from the companionless solitude of the North, +destiny in the shape of crowds was determined to pursue me. I expected +to transfer from the _Melchior_ to the _Oscar II_ at Christiansaand, +Norway, quietly and make my way home in peace. At Christiansaand the +noise began. On a smaller scale was repeated the previous ovation of +Copenhagen. + +On board the _Oscar II_ I really got more sleep than I had for months +previous or months afterwards. After several days of seasickness I +experienced the joys of comparative rest and slept like a child. My +brain still seemed numbed. There were on the boat no curiosity-seekers; +no crowds stifled me nor did applause thunder in my ears. + +Every few minutes, before we got out of touch with the wireless, there +were messages; communications from friends, from newspapers and +magazines; repetitions of the early charges made against me; questions +concerning Peary's messages and my attitude toward him. When the boat +approached Newfoundland the wireless again became disturbing. Then came +the "gold brick" cable. + +At this time, every vestige of pleasure in the thought of the thing I +had accomplished left me. Since then, and to this day, I almost view all +my efforts with regret. I doubt if any man ever lived in the belief of +an accomplishment and got so little pleasure, and so much bitterness, +from it. That my Eskimos had told Mr. Peary they had been but two days +out of sight of land seemed probable; it was a belief I had always +encouraged. That Mr. Peary should persistently attack me did arouse a +feeling of chagrin and injury. + +I spent most of my time alone in my cabin or strolling on the deck. The +people aboard considered Peary's messages amusing. I talked little; I +tried to analyze the situation in my mind, but wearily I gave it up; +mentally I was still dazed. + +During the trip Director Cold, chief of the Danish United Steamship +Company, helped me with small details in every way; Lonsdale, my +secretary, and Mr. Cold's secretary were busy copying my notes and my +narrative story, which I had agreed to give to the New York _Herald_. I +had made no plans; my one object was to see my family. + +As we approached New York the wireless brought me news of the ovation +under way. This amazed and filled me with dismay. I had considered the +exaggerated reception of Copenhagen a manifestation of local excitement, +partly due to the interest of the Danes in the North. New York, I +concluded, was too big, too unemotional, too much interested in bigger +matters to bother much about the North Pole. This I told Robert M. +Berry, the Berlin representative of the Associated Press, who +accompanied me on the boat. He disagreed with me. + +Having burned one hundred tons of coal in order to make time, the _Oscar +II_ arrived along American shores a day before that arranged for my +reception. So as not to frustrate any plans, we lay off Shelter Island +until the next day. It was my wish to send a message to Mrs. Cook and +ask her to come out. But the sea was rough; and, moreover, she was not +well. Now tugs bearing squads of reporters began to arrive. We agreed to +let no one aboard. The New York _Journal_, with characteristic +enterprise, had brought Anthony Fiala on its tug with a note from Mrs. +Cook. So an exception had to be made. An old friend and a letter from my +wife could not be sent away. + +That night I slept little. Outside I heard the dull thud of the sea. +Voices exploded from megaphones every few minutes. Mingled emotions +filled me. The anticipation of meeting wife and children was sweet; that +again, after an absence of more than two years, I should step upon the +shores of my own land filled me with emotions too strong for words. + +The next morning I was up with the rising of the sun. We arrived at +Quarantine soon after seven. About us on the waves danced a dozen tugs +with reporters. In the distance appeared a tug toward which I strained +my eyes, for I was told it bore my wife and children. With a feeling of +delight, which only long separation can give, I boarded this, and in a +moment they were in my arms. I was conscious of confusion about me; of +whistling and shrieking; uncanny magnified voices thundering from scores +of megaphones; of a band playing an American air. When the _Grand +Republic_, thrilling a metallic salute, steamed toward us, and the +cheers of hundreds rent the air, I remembered asking myself what it +could be all about. Why all this agitation? + +Again the contagion of excitement bewildered me; the big boat drew near +to a tug, above me swirled a cloud of hundreds of faces; around me the +sunlit sea, with decorated craft, whirled and danced. As I giddily +ascended the gangplank and felt a wreath of roses flung about me I was +conscious chiefly of an unsuitable lack of appreciation. I spoke +briefly; friends and relatives greeted me; the shaking of thousands of +hands began; and all the while a deep hurt, a feeling of soreness, +oppressed me. + +From that day on until after I left New York, my life was a +kaleidoscopic whirl of excitement, for which I found no reason. I had no +time to analyze or estimate public enthusiasm and any change of that +enthusiasm into doubt. I had no sense of perspective; involuntarily I +was swept through a cyclone of events. The bewilderment which came upon +me at Copenhagen returned, and with it a feeling of helplessness, of +puzzlement; I felt much as a child might when taking its first ride in a +carousel. Each day thereafter, from morning until morning there was a +continuous rush of excitement; at no time, until I fled from it, did I +get more than four hours' sleep at night--disturbed sleep at that. I +had not a moment for reflection, and even now, after recovering from the +lack of mental perception which inevitably followed, it is with +difficulty that I recall my impressions at the time. I suppose there are +those who think that I was having a good time, but it was the hardest +time of my life. + +I remember standing in the pilot house of the _Grand Republic_, my +little ones by me, and watching thousands of men along the wharves of +the East River, going mad. The world seemed engaged in some frantic +revel. Factories became vocal and screamed hideously; boats became +hoarse with shrieking; the megaphone cry was maddening. Drawing up to a +gayly decorated pier, a thunder of voices assailed me. I felt crushed by +the unearthly din. + +I was involuntarily shoved along, and found myself in an automobile--one +of many, all decorated with flags. Cameras clicked like rapid-fire guns. +A band played; roaring voices like beating sound waves rose and fell; +faces swam before me. + +Through streets jammed with people we moved along. I hardly spoke a word +to my wife, who sat near. Out of the scene of tumult, familiar faces +peered now and again. I remember being touched by the sight of thousands +of school children, assembled outside of public schools and waving +American flags. + +In the neighborhood of the new bridge, under the arch, I recall seeing +the eager face of my favorite boyhood school-teacher. It struck me at +the time that she hardly seemed aged a day. Something swelled up within +me, and I was conscious of a desire to lean out through the crowd and +draw her into the machine. Through the thick congestion it was +difficult to move; even the police were helpless. Now and again people +tried to climb into the machine and were torn away. + +At the Bushwick Club I lunched in a small room with friends, and a +feeling of pleasure warmed my heart. During the reception words of +confidence were spoken and somehow filtered into my mind. I shook hands +until my arms were sore, bowed my head until my neck ached. I was forced +to retire. Later there was dinner at the club, after which I received +seven hundred singers. By this time I felt like a machine. My brain was +blank. About midnight, utterly exhausted, I arrived at the +Waldorf-Astoria, where I fought through a crowd in the lobby. I think I +sat and listened to Mrs. Cook telling me news of home and the family +until night merged into morning. + +Next day the storm through which I was being swept began again. During +that and the days following I made many mistakes, did and said unwise +things. I want to show you, in telling of these events, just how +helpless I was; what a victim of circumstance; how unfitted to bear the +physical and mental demands of a ceaseless procession of public +functions, lectures, dinners, receptions, days and nights of traveling, +and how unable to cope with the many charges. In sixty days there were +not less than two hundred lectures, dinners, and receptions, not to +mention the unremitting train of press interviews. With no club of +friends or organization of any kind behind me, I stood the strain alone. + +I was ignorant of much that was said about me. I had no one to gauge my +situation at any time and advise me. About me was an unbearable pressure +from friends and foes; I stood it until I could stand it no longer. +There was not a minute of relief, not a minute to think. Coming after +two years spent in the Arctic, at a time when nature was paying the debt +of long starvation and hardship, the stress of events inevitably +developed a mental strain bordering on madness. Where could I go to get +rest from it all? This was my last thought at night and my first thought +in the morning. + +During my second day at the Waldorf I had to read proofs of the +narrative to be printed in the _Herald_, go over the plans of my book +with the New York publishing house with whom I had signed a contract, +and examine hundreds of films to select photographs. There were hundreds +of letters and telegrams; scores of reporters demanding interviews; +hundreds of callers, few of whom I was able to see. An army of +publishers, lecture managers, and even vaudeville managers sent up their +cards. + +The chief event of the first day in New York was the inquisition by +newspaper reporters. They both interested and amused me. I had gone +through the same ordeal in Copenhagen, and I knew that American +interviewers are famed for their wolfish propensities. + +Before I saw the sensation-hungry press men, I got certain news that +shocked my sense of the fairness of the American press. Someone +interested in my case had sent me unsolicited copies of all telegrams, +cables and wireless messages passing between New York and the Peary +ship. These messages now continued to come daily, and thus I was +afforded a splendid opportunity to watch an underhand game of deceit +wherein Mr. Peary was shown to be in league with a New York paper +aiming secretly to further his claims and to cast doubt upon mine. + +Among these was a message asking a certain editor to meet Peary at +Bangor, Maine, to arrange for the pro-Peary campaign of bribery and +conspiracy which followed. In another, and the most remarkable message, +Mr. Peary first showed the sneaking methods by which the whole +controversy was conducted. A long list of questions had been prepared by +Mr. Peary at Battle Harbor, covering, as rival interests dictated, every +phase of Polar work. These questions were sent to the New York _Times_ +with instructions to compel answers from me on each of a series of catch +phrases. + +When the _Times_ reporter came to me with these, I recognized the Peary +phraseology at once. I afterwards compared the copy of Peary's telegram +with that of the _Times_, and found in it nearly every question asked by +the reporters. While the questions were being read off, it required a +good deal of patience to conceal my irritation, as I knew Mr. Peary was +talking through the smooth-faced, smiling press cubs, none of whom knew +that he was Peary's mouthpiece. Every one of the Peary questions, +however, was amusing, for I had answered each a dozen times in Europe. +But if Mr. Peary must question me, why did he stoop to the hypocrisy of +doing it through others? The other reporters asked many questions, the +reports of which I have not seen since. But the duplicity of this little +trick left a strong impression of unfairness. + +At about this time I began to examine critically the many efforts which +Mr. Peary had begun to make to discredit my achievement. In going over +such of his reports of his own claims as had gotten to me, I was at once +struck with the statements parallel to mine which he had sent out, and +since these so thoroughly proved my case I felt that I could be liberal +and patient with Mr. Peary's ill-temper. + +I now learned that after Mr. Peary got the full reports of my attainment +of the Pole at the wireless station at Labrador, he withdrew behind the +rocks to a place where no one was looking, and digested that report. His +own report came after the digestion of mine. In the meantime, his delay +in proceeding to Sydney, Nova Scotia, and his silence, were explained by +the official announcement that the ship was being washed and cleaned. +This was manifestly absurd. No seaman returning from a voyage of a year, +where sailors have no occupation whatever except such work, waits until +he gets to port before cleaning his decks. Furthermore, this hiding +behind the rocks of Labrador continued for weeks. What was the +mysterious occupation of Mr. Peary? The _Roosevelt_, as described by +visitors when she arrived at Sydney, was still very dirty. When Mr. +Peary's much-heralded report was finally printed, every Arctic explorer +at once said the astonishing parallel statements in Mr. Peary's +narrative either proved my case or convicted Mr. Peary of plagiarism. My +story, by this time, had got well along in the New York _Herald_. To +help Mr. Peary out of his position, McMillan later rushed to the press. +He was under contract not to write or talk to the press, nor to lecture, +write magazine articles or books, as were all of Peary's men. But this +prohibition was waived temporarily. Then McMillan made the statement +that Dr. Cook must have gotten the "parallel data" and inside +information from Mr. Peary's Eskimos. Everyone acquainted with +Greenland, including McMillan, knows that such inter-communication was +impossible. I had left for Upernavik by the time Peary returned to Etah. +Therefore, McMillan and Peary both were caught in a deliberate lie, as +were also Bartlett[23] and Borup later. These were Mr. Peary's witnesses +in the broadside of charges with which I was to be annihilated. + +A few days after my arrival in America I learned for the first time of +the strange death of Ross Marvin. We were asked by Mr. Peary to believe +that this young man of more than average intelligence, a graduate of +Cornell University and of the New York Nautical School, a man of +experience on the Polar seas, stepped over young ice alone, without a +life-line, and sank through a film of ice to a grave in the Arctic +waters. + +An idiot might do that; but Marvin, unless he went suddenly mad, would +not do it. To cross the young ice of open leads, like that in which +Marvin is said to have perished, is a daily, almost hourly, experience +in Arctic travel. To safeguard each other's lives, and to save sledges +and dog teams, life-lines are carried in coils on the upstanders of the +sled. When about to risk a crossing, a line is always fixed from one to +the other and from sled to sled. When this is done, and an accident +happens such as that which is alleged to have befallen Marvin, the +victim is saved by the pull of his companions on the line. This is done +as unfailingly as one eats meals. Would a man of Marvin's experience and +intelligence neglect such a precaution? I knew such an accident might +have happened to the inexperienced explorers of the days of Franklin, +but to-day it seemed incredible. Furthermore, Peary was boasting of what +he styled the "Peary system," for which is claimed such thoroughness +that without it no other explorer could reach the Pole. If Marvin's +death was natural, then he is a victim of this system. + +But let us read between the lines of this harrowing tragedy. After +learning of my attainment of the Pole, Peary rushed to the wireless. +With a letter in his pocket from Captain Adams which gave the news that +started the ire of envy, and which also gave the news that convicted +Peary of a lie, he thereafter for a week or more kept the wires busy +with the famous "gold brick" messages. + +Marvin's death, and the duty to a bereaved family, which ordinary +humanity would have dictated, were of no consequence to one making +envious, vicious attacks. For a week all the world blushed with shame +because of the dishonor thus brought upon our country and our flag. In +New York there was a happy home, a loving mother, a fond sister; anxious +friends were all busy in preparing surprises for the happy homecoming of +the one beloved by all. It was a busy week, with joyous, heart-stirring +anticipation. There was no news from the Peary ship. Not a word came to +indicate that their expected returning hero had been lost in the icy +seas. To that mother's yearning heart her boy was nearing home--but +alas! no news came! A week passed, and still no news! + +At last, after Peary had digested my narrative, the carefully prepared +press report was put on the wires. Ross Marvin's family, engrossed in +preparations for a reception with flowers and flags, was about to see, +in cold, black print, that he for whom their hearts beat expectantly was +no more. At the last moment, Peary's conscience seemingly troubled him. +A long message was sent to a friend to break the news and to soften the +effects of the press reports on that poor mother and sister. That +message was sent "Collect." A man who had given years of his time and +his life to glorify Peary was not worthy of a prepaid telegram! + +Later, an important letter from Marvin reached his own home. In it the +stealing of my supplies is referred to in a way to show that Marvin +condemned Peary. The public ought to know the wording of this part of +the letter. Why has it been suppressed? Marvin's death, to my +understanding, does not seem natural. With a good deal of empty verbiage +the sacrifice of this unfortunate young man is explained; but two +questions are forced at once: Why was Marvin without a life-line? Why +were conveniently lost with him certain data that might disprove Peary's +case? + +If Marvin sank into the ice, as Peary said he did, then Peary is +responsible for the loss of that life, for he did not surround him with +proper safeguards. The death of this man points to something more than +tragedy. Since Marvin's soundings were made under the authority of the +Coast and Geodetic Survey, the American Government is, therefore, +answerable for this death. + +Mr. Peary's treatment of Marvin wearied me of all the Peary talk at the +time; and, furthermore, all of Mr. Peary's charges, of which so much +fuss was made, carried the self-evident origin of cruel envy and +selfishness. First, the Eskimos, put through a third degree behind +closed doors, were reported to have said that I had not been more than +two sleeps out of sight of land. This was easily explained. They had +been instructed not to tell Mr. Peary of my affairs, and they had been +encouraged to believe themselves always near land. Then this charge was +dropped, and the next was made, the one about my not reporting the +alleged cache at "Cape Thomas Hubbard." That assertion, instead of +injuring me, convicted Peary of trying to steal from Captain Sverdrup +the honor of discovering and naming Svartevoeg. For it was shown that by +deception "Cape Thomas Hubbard" had been written over a point discovered +years earlier by another explorer. For this kind of honor Hubbard had +contributed to Peary's expeditions. But is not the obliteration of a +geographic name for money a kind of geographic larceny? + +Then was forced the charge that I had told no one of my Polar success in +the North, and therefore the entire report was an afterthought. Whitney +and Prichard later cleared this up, but at the very time when Peary made +this charge he had in his possession a letter from Captain Adams, of the +whaler _Morning_, which he had received in the North, wherein my +attainment of the Pole was stated. When Peary got the Adams letter he +put on full steam, abandoned his plan to visit other Greenland ports, +and came direct to Labrador, to the wireless. Why was the Adams letter +suppressed, when it was charged that I had told no one? And, +furthermore, why had Mr. Peary told no one on his ship of his own +success until he neared Battle Harbor? + +All of these charges betrayed untruthful methods on the part of Mr. +Peary in his own method of presentation. Automatically, without a word +of defence on my part, each charge rebounded on the charger. + +Then there came the page broadside of rearranged charges printed by +every American paper. It contained nothing new in the text, but with it +there was a faked map, copied from Sverdrup, which was made to appear +as though drawn by Eskimos. The best answer to this whole problem is +that from the same tongues with which Mr. Peary tried to discredit me +has come a much more formidable charge against Mr. Peary. For these same +Eskimos have since said, without quizzing from me, that Mr. Peary never +got to the Pole and that he never saw Crocker Land. + +This part of the controversy was thoroughly analyzed by Professor W. F. +Armbruster and Dr. Henry Schwartz in the St. Louis _Mirror_[24]. + +While this controversy early began to rage, the tremendous offers of +money which came in every hour contributed to my bewilderment. They +seemed fabulous; the purport was beyond me. I imagined this as part of +a dream from which I should awake. Were I the calculating monster of +cupidity which some believe me, I suppose I should have been more +circumspect in making my financial arrangements. + +I should hardly, for instance, have sold my narrative story to Mr. James +Gordon Bennett for $25,000 when there were single offers of $50,000, +$75,000, $100,000, and more, for it. While I was in Copenhagen, and +before the _Herald_ offer was accepted, Mr. W. T. Stead had come with a +message from W. R. Hearst with instructions to double any other offer +presented for my narrative. Had I accepted Mr. Hearst's bid he would +have paid $400,000 for what I sold for $25,000. Here is a sacrifice of +$375,000. Does that look as if I tried to hoax the world for sordid +gain, as my enemies would like the public to believe? What Mr. Bennett +asked and offered $25,000 for was a series of four articles on +adventures in the North, for use in the Sunday supplement of the +_Herald_. I had no such articles prepared at the time, nor, as I knew, +should I have time to write these. I did have the narrative story of my +trip, which consisted of twenty-five thousand to thirty thousand words, +complete. I decided, when I heard the first reports of doubt cast on my +claim, to publish my narrative story as an honest and sincere proof of +my claim as soon as possible. So I gave this to Mr. Bennett for the sum +offered purely for Sunday articles. + +[Illustration: GOVERNOR KRAUL IN HIS STUDY + +ARRIVAL AT UPERNAVIK] + +[Illustration: POLAR TRAGEDY--A DESERTED CHILD OF THE SULTAN OF THE +NORTH AND ITS MOTHER] + +Mr. Bennett offered me $5,000 additional for the European rights of this +story. To this offer I made no reply, giving Mr. Bennett the sole news +rights of the story for the entire world. + +When I reached New York, needing ready money, I wired Mr. Bennett for an +advance on my story. He cabled back an immediate order for the entire +sum of $25,000. This gave me a sudden glow, a feeling of pleasure at +what I regarded as a display of confidence. + +With my lecture work and traveling I was kept so busy that I did not +have time to go over the story, typewritten from my almost illegible +notes, which was sent to the New York _Herald_. When I did go over the +proofs and found many grievous errors, the _Herald_ had already +syndicated the story. It was too late for any corrections, and thus many +errors appeared. + +I made a contract with a New York publishing house, while in Copenhagen, +with the idea of getting out my book and all proofs possible as soon as +the presses would allow, in view of the imminent controversy. For the +English and American rights to my book I was to receive $150,000 in a +lump sum and an additional $150,000 in royalties. Although papers were +signed for this, later on, when things seemed turning against me and I +saw the publishers were getting "cold feet," I voluntarily freed them +from the contract. + +By the time I left Copenhagen, as I figured later, offers for book and +magazine material and lectures had aggregated just one and one-half +million dollars. A prominent New York manager made me an offer of +$250,000 for a series of lectures. During the first few days I had +absolutely no system of caring for this correspondence, hundreds of +important cablegrams remained unopened, and huge offers of money were +ignored. It was only after Minister Egan sent Walter Lonsdale, in +response to my request for a competent secretary, that some intelligible +information was gleaned from the mass of correspondence. Most of it, as +a matter of fact, was read only when we were on the _Oscar II_, bound +for home. + +After making my arrangement with Mr. Bennett, the _Matin_ of Paris had +sent me an offer of $50,000 for the serial rights of a French +translation of the story to appear in the _Herald_. This included a +lecture under the auspices of the paper in Paris. My anxiety to get home +prevented a consideration of this; and it was only after I sailed on +the _Oscar II_ that I realized I could have gone to Paris, delivered the +lecture, and returned to New York by a fast boat. + +On the _Oscar II_ a wireless had reached me of a large offer for a +lecture during the convention in St. Louis. This I decided to accept, +the simple reason being that I needed money. + +Much criticism has been hurled at me because I started on a lecture +campaign when I should have prepared my data and submitted proof. At +that time I was in no position to anticipate or understand this +criticism. Every explorer for fifty years had done the same thing, all +had delivered lectures and written articles about their work after a +first preliminary report. Supplementary and detailed data were usually +given long afterwards, not as proof but as a part of the plan of +recording ultimate results. I had the precedents of Stanley, +Nordenskjöld, Nansen, Peary, and others. + +Had I anticipated the furore that was being raised about proofs, I +probably should have taken public opinion into my consideration. So firm +was my own conviction of achievement that the difficulty of supplying +such absolute proof as the unique occasion afterwards demanded never +occurred to me. My feeling at the time was that I was under no +obligation to patrons, to the Government, to any society, or anyone, and +that I had a right to deliver lectures at a time when public interest +was keyed up, and to prepare my detailed reports at a time when I should +have more leisure. + +My family needed money. Huge sums were offered me hourly; I should have +been unwise indeed had I not accepted some of the offers. I am advised +that stories of enormous lecture profits have been told. I am informed +that the newspapers said I was to receive $25,000 for going to St. +Louis. The truth is that I got less than half that, though I believe St. +Louis probably spent more than $25,000 in preparing for my appearance +there. All told, I delivered about twenty lectures in various large +cities, receiving from $1,000 to $10,000 per lecture. My expenses were +heavy, so that in the end I netted less than $25,000. When I determined +to stop the lecture work and prepare my data, I canceled $140,000 worth +of lecture engagements. + +Each day there was a routine of lunches with speeches, dinners with +speeches, suppers with speeches. The task of devising speeches was ever +present; with me it did not come easy. But speeches must be made, and I +felt a tense strain, as if something were drawing my mentality from me. + +Everywhere I went crowds pressed about me. I shook hands until the flesh +of one finger was actually worn through to the bone. Hundreds of people +daily came to see me. + +About this time, too, my bewildered brain began to realize that I was +also the object of most ferocious attacks from many quarters. I had no +time to read the newspapers, and these charges and suspicions filtered +in to me through reporters and friends. Usually they reached me in an +exaggerated or a distorted form. + +There began at this time the publication of innumerable fake interviews +and stories misrepresenting me.[25] One interviewer quoted me as saying +that Dagaard Jensen had seen my records, and therefore confirmed my +claim to the people in Copenhagen; another that I said Governor Kraul of +Greenland had reported talking with my Eskimos, who had confirmed my +report. Dagaard Jensen justly denied this by cable, as I had made no +such statement. That about Governor Kraul was absurd on the face of it, +as he was a thousand miles away from my Eskimos. I have no means of +knowing the embarrassing statements attributed to me--things which were +variously denied, and which hurt me. There was not time for me to +consider or answer them. + +Then came the blow which almost stunned me--the news that Harry Whitney +had not been allowed by Peary to bring my instruments and notes home +with him. + +During the long night at Cape Sparbo I had carefully figured out and +reduced most of my important observations. The old, rubbed, oily, and +torn field notes, the instrumental corrections and the direct readings +were packed with the instruments, and these were mostly left with Mr. +Whitney. The figures were important for future recalculation, but +otherwise had not seemed materially important to me, for they had served +their purpose. I had with me all the important data, such as is usually +given in a traveler's narrative. No more had ever been asked before. + +Under ordinary circumstances, these instruments and papers would not +have been of great value, but under the public excitement their +importance was immensely enhanced. + +I had publicly announced that Mr. Whitney would bring these with him on +the boat in which he was to return. Had there been no notes and no +instruments, I hardly should have said this were I perpetrating a fraud, +for I should have known that the failure of Mr. Whitney to supply these +would provoke widespread suspicion. This is just what happened. Had I +foreseen the trouble that resulted, I should have taken my instruments +with me to Upernavik, and have supplied my observations and notes at +once. + +As I have said before, I believed in an accomplishment which I felt was +largely personal, for which a world excitement was not warranted and in +which I had such a sure confidence that I never thought of absolutely +accurate proof. This was my folly--for which fate made me pay. Imagine +my dismay, the heartsickness which seized me when, through the din of +tumult and excitement, in the midst of suspicion, came the news that Mr. +Whitney had been forced by Mr. Peary to take from the _Roosevelt_ and +bury the very material with which I might have dispelled suspicion and +quelled the storm of unmerited abuse. + +The instruments carried on my northern trip, and left with Mr. Whitney, +and which he had seen, consisted of one French sextant; one aluminum +surveying compass, with azimuth attachment, bought of Keuffer & Essen, +New York; one glass artifical horizon, set in a thin metal frame, +adjusted by spirit levels and thumbscrews, bought of Hutchinson, Boston; +one aneroid barometer, aluminum, bought of Hicks; an aluminum case with +maximum and minimum spirit thermometer; other thermometers, and one +liquid compass. + +Other instruments used about stations were also left. With these were +papers giving some instrumental corrections, readings, and comparisons, +and other occasional notes, and a small diary, mostly loose leaves, +containing some direct field reading of instruments and meteorological +data. These took up very little space; and, if I remember correctly, +all were snugly packed in one of the instrument cases. + +Mr. Whitney especially asked, as a personal favor, the honor of caring +for my flag. Later, after his return, he said that as Mr. Peary had +refused to let him take aboard my things, he had no alternative but to +bury them at Etah. I have no complaint to make against Mr. Peary about +this. He was at liberty to pick the freight of his own ship. But he +later said: "His [Dr. Cook's] leaving of his records at Etah was a +scheme by which he could claim that they were lost." If Mr. Peary knew +this, why did he not bring them? + +At the time I felt crippled; my feeling of disgust with the problem, +with myself, and with the situation began. It would be impossible to +give in my report a continuous line of observations. I had no +corrections for the instruments. I knew they might vary. I had no means +of checking them. I had some copies of the original data, but they were +not complete. I should have to rest my whole case on a report with +reduced observations, for I knew it would not be possible to send a ship +to Etah until the following year. And I also knew that if Eskimos were +not given strong explicit instructions all would be lost. + +Meanwhile, many apparently trivial accusations against me were being +widely discussed, which, never refuted, had their weight in the long run +in discrediting my good faith. On every side I was attacked, not so much +for unintentional error, as for deliberate falsehood. + +In the bewildering days that followed--during which I traveled to +various cities to fulfill lecture engagements--I felt alone, a victim +of such pressure as, I believe, has seldom been the fate of any human +being. + +Friends confused me as much as the attacks of foes. Some advised one +thing; others another; my brain staggered with their well-meaning +advice. Most of them wanted me to "light out," as they expressed it, and +attack Mr. Peary. A number suggested the formation of an organization, +the work of which would be to issue counter attacks on Mr. Peary, to be +written by various men, and to reply systematically to charges made +against me. Such a course was distasteful to me, and, furthermore, the +selfish, envious origin of all of Mr. Peary's charges seemed evident. + +Many of the other attacks seemed so ridiculous that I felt no one would +believe them--which was another of my many mistakes. The more serious +charges I believed could wait until I had time to sit down and reply to +them at length. I felt the futility of any fragmentary retorts. At no +time did I have an intelligent grasp of the situation, of the excited +and exaggerated interest of the public, or of the fluctuating state of +public opinion. + +In my many years of Arctic work I had gathered pictures of almost every +phase of Arctic life and scene; on subsequent trips, unless for some +special reason, I did not duplicate photographs of impregnable, +unmeltable headlands, or of walrus, or icebergs which I considered +typical. In the early rush for illustrative material I gave a number of +these to the _Herald_, stating they were scenes I had passed, but which +had been taken on an earlier expedition. By some mistake, which is not +unusual in newspaper offices, one of these pictures was put under a +caption, "Pictures of Dr. Cook's Polar Trip," or something to this +effect. Whereupon, Mr. Herbert Bridgman, secretary of the Peary Arctic +Club, shouted aloud, "Fraud!" and others took up the cry. A further +charge that these pictures were not mine at all, but had been stolen or +borrowed from Herbert Berri, was advanced--an absolute untruth, as I had +the negatives, from which these pictures were made, in my possession. + +What, in those early days, had seemed a serious criticism offered +against my claim, was that I had exceeded possible speed limits by +asserting an average of about fifteen miles a day. The English critics +were particularly severe. According to their reading, this had never +been done before. Admiral Melville had taken this up in America before +my arrival; by the time I got to New York, Mr. Peary had made a report +of twenty to forty-five miles daily under similar conditions, and I +asked myself the reason of the sudden hush. + +Much space was now given to the criticism by learned men of my giving +seconds in observations. The point was taken that as you near the Pole +the degrees of longitude narrow, and seconds are of no consequence. +Therefore I was charged with trying to fake an impossible accuracy. I +always regarded seconds as of little consequence, put them down as a +matter of routine--for in that snow-blinding, bewildering North I worked +more like a machine than a reasoning being--and now the inadvertent use +of these was used to cast suspicion upon me. + +With this attack, like echoes from many places, came reiterations of the +criticism, which, polly-like, was taken up by Rear-Admiral Chester. +Professor Stockwell of Cleveland had earlier brought out this academic +discussion. Because I had seen the midnight sun for the first time on +April 7 it was claimed I must have been at a more southern point of the +globe than I believed. At the time it seemed the only serious scientific +criticism of my reports which was used against me. + +Whether I was on a more southerly point of the globe than I believed or +not, I had not used the midnight sun, seen through a mystic maze of +unknowable refraction, to determine position; to do so would have been +impossible. With a constant moving and grinding of the ice, causing +opening lanes of water, from which the inequality of temperature drew an +evaporation like steam from a volcano, it is impossible at this season +to see a low sun with a clear horizon. One looks through an opaque veil +of blinding crystals. Every Arctic traveler knows that even when the sun +is seen on a clear horizon, as it returns after the long night, his eyes +are deceived--he does not see the sun at all, but a refracted image +caused by the optical deception of atmospheric distortions. For this +reason, as I knew, all observations of the sun when very low are +worthless as a means of determining position. The assumption that I had +done this seemed mere foolishness to me at the time. + +Staggered by the blow that Whitney had buried my instruments in the +North, the recurring thoughts of these harassing charges certainly had +no soothing effect. + +Alone, I was unable to cope with matters, anyway. I under-estimated the +effect of the cumulating attacks. Oppressed by the undercurrent feeling +that it was all a fuss about very little, a thing of insignificant +worth, and disturbed by the growing uncertainty of proving such a claim +to the point of hair-breadth accuracy by any figures, despair overcame +me. + +I was so busy I could not pause to think, and was conscious only of the +rush, the labor, the worry. I no longer slept; indigestion naturally +seized me as its victim. A mental depression brought desperate +premonitions. + +I developed a severe case of laryngitis in Washington; it got worse as I +went to Baltimore and Pittsburg. At St. Louis, where I talked before an +audience said to number twelve thousand persons, I could hardly raise my +voice above a whisper. The lecture was given with physical anguish. I +was feverish and mentally dazed. Thereafter, day by day, my thoughts +became less coherent; I, more like a machine. + +I do not exaggerate when I say that there was practically not one hour +of pleasure in those troubled days. The dinner which was given by the +Arctic travelers at the Waldorf-Astoria pleased me more than anything +during the entire experience. I felt the close presence of hundreds of +warm friends; I was conscious of their good will. + +I can recall the ceremony of presenting the keys of the City of New York +to me, but I was so confused and half ill that I was not in a condition +to appreciate the honor. + +After I had been on my lecture tour for a few weeks, I began to feel +persecuted. On every side I sensed hostility; the sight of crowds filled +me with a growing sort of terror. I did not realize at the time that I +was passing from periods of mental depression to dangerous periods of +nervous tension. I was pursued by reporters, people with craning necks, +good-natured demonstrations of friendliness that irritated me. In the +trains I viewed the whirling landscape without, and felt myself part of +it--as a delirious man swept and hurtled through space. + +I suppose I answered questions intelligently; like an automaton +delivered my lectures, shook hands. I have been told I smiled pleasantly +always--mentally I was never conscious of a smile. It is strange how, +machine-like, a man can conduct himself like a reasonable being when, +mentally, he is at sea. I have read a great deal about the subconscious +mind; on no other theory can I account for my rational conduct in public +at the time. Really, as I view myself from the angle of the present, I +marvel that a man so distraught did not do desperate things. + + _Author's Note._--I have never attempted to disprove Mr. Peary's + claim to having reached the North Pole. I prefer to believe that Mr. + Peary reached the North Pole. + + So avid have been my enemies, however, to cast discredit upon my own + achievement, by such trivial and petty charges, that it seems + curious they have never noticed or have remained silent about many + striking and staggering discrepancies in Mr. Peary's own published + account of his journey. + + In Mr. Peary's book, entitled "The North Pole; Its Discovery, 1909," + published by Frederick A. Stokes Company, on page 302, appears the + following: + + "We turned our backs upon the Pole at about four o'clock of the + afternoon of April 7." + + According to a statement made on page 304, Mr. Peary took time on + his return trip to take a sounding of the sea five miles from the + Pole. + + On page 305, Mr. Peary says: "Friday, April 9, was a wild day. All + day long the wind blew strong from the north-northeast, increasing + finally to a gale." And on page 306: "We camped that night at 87° + 47´." + + Mr. Peary thus claims to have traveled from the Pole to this point, + a distance of 133 nautical miles, or 153 statute miles, in a little + over two days. This would average 76½ statute miles a day. Could a + pedestrian make such speed? During this time Mr. Peary camped twice, + to make tea, eat lunch, feed the dogs, and rest--several hours in + each camp. + + Why I should never have gone out of sight of land for more than two + days, as he has charged, when such miraculous speed can be made on + the circumpolar sea, is something Mr. Peary might find interesting + reasons to explain. + + On page 310, Mr. Peary says: "We were coming down the North Pole + hill in fine shape now, and another double march, April 16-17, + brought us to our eleventh upward camp at 85° 8´, one hundred and + twenty-one miles from Cape Columbia." + + According to this, Mr. Peary covered the distance from 87° 47´, on + April 9, to 85° 8´, on April 17--a distance of 159 nautical miles in + eight day. This averaged twenty miles a day. + + On page 316, he says: "It was almost exactly six o'clock on the + morning of April 23 when we reached the igloo of 'Crane City,' at + Cape Columbia, and the work was done." + + Mr. Peary left 85° 8´ on April 17, according to his statement, and + traveled 121 miles to Cape Columbia in six days, arriving on April + 23. This last stretch was at the rate of twenty miles a day. To sum + up, he traveled from the North Pole, according to his statements, to + land, as follows: + + The first 133 nautical miles southward in two days, at the rate of + 66 nautical miles, or 76½ statute miles, a day; the last 279 + nautical miles in fourteen days, an average of 20 miles a day. + + According to Peary's book, Bartlett left him at 87° 46´, and Mr. + Peary started on his final spurt to the Pole a little after midnight + on the morning of April 2. By arriving at the point where he left + Bartlett on the evening of April 9, he would have made the distance + of 270 miles to the Pole from this point and back, in a little over + seven days. + + In the New York _World_ of October 3, 1910, page 3, column 6, + Matthew Henson makes the following statement: "On the way up we had + to break a trail, and averaged only eighteen to twenty miles a day. + On the way back we had our own trail to within one hundred miles of + land, and then Captain Bartlett's trail. We made from twenty to + forty miles a day." + + At the rate of twenty miles a day on the way up, which Henson claims + was made, it would have taken 6 days and 18 hours to cover the + distance of 135 miles from 87° 47´ to the Pole. Adding the thirty + hours Mr. Peary claims he spent at the Pole for observations, eight + days would have elapsed before they started back. Peary says the + round trip of 270 miles from 87° 47´ N. to the Pole and the return + to the same latitude was done in seven days and a few hours. + + Why has Mr. Peary never been asked to explain his miraculous speed + and the discrepancy between his statement and Henson's? + + Henson was Mr. Peary's sole witness. When Mr. Peary, in a framed-up + document, endeavors to disprove my claim by quoting my Eskimos, it + would be just as fair to apply Henson's words to disprove Peary. + + Moreover, inasmuch as Mr. Peary's partisans attacked my speed limits + when I made my first reports, does it not seem curious indeed that + they now accept as infallible, and _ex cathedra_, the published + reports of the almost supernatural feat in covering distance made by + Mr. Peary? + + + + +THE KEY TO THE CONTROVERSY + +PEARY AND HIS PAST--HIS DEALING WITH RIVAL EXPLORERS--THE DEATH OF +ASTRUP--THE THEFT OF THE "GREAT IRON STONE," THE NATIVES' SOLE SOURCE +OF IRON + +XXXIII + +ACTIONS WHICH CALL FOR INVESTIGATION + + +Aiming to be retired from the Navy as a Captain, with a comfortable +pension; aiming eventually to wear the stripes of a Rear-Admiral, which +necessitated a promotion over the heads of others in the normal line of +advancement, a second Polar victory, which was all that Peary could +honestly claim, was not sufficient. Something must be done to destroy in +the public eye the merits of my achievement for the first attainment of +the Pole. I had reached the Pole on April 21, 1908. Mr. Peary's claims +were for April 6, 1909, a year later. To destroy the advantage of +priority of my conquest, and to establish himself as the first and only +one who had reached the Pole, was now the one predominant effort to +which Mr. Peary and his coterie of conspirators set themselves. To this +end the cables were now made to burn with an abusive campaign, which the +press, eager for sensations, took up from land's end to land's end, +even to the two worlds. The wireless operators picked up messages that +were being thrown from ship to ship and from point to point. Each +carried unkind insinuations coming from the lips of Mr. Peary. The press +and the public were induced to believe that Peary's words came from one +who was himself above the shadow of suspicion. Their efforts, however, +as we will see later, did not differ from the battle of envy forced +against others before me, but it was now done more openly. + +It was difficult to remain silent against such world-wide slanders. But +I reasoned that truth would ultimately prevail, and that the rebound of +the American spirit of fair play would quell the storm. + +I had known for nearly a quarter of a century the man for whom the press +now attacked me. I had served on two of his expeditions without pay; I +had watched his successes and his failures; I had admired his strong +qualities, and I had shivered with the shocks of his wrongdoings. But +still I did not feel that anything was to be gained by retaliative +abuse; and the truth about him, out of charity, I hesitated to tell. No, +I argued, this warfare of the many against one, under the dictates of +envy, must ultimately bring to light its own injustice. + +I had always reasoned that a quiet, dignified, non-assailing bearing +would be most effective in a battle of this kind. Contrary to the +general belief at the time, this was not done out of respect for Mr. +Peary; it seemed the best means to a worthier end. But I did not know at +this time that the press, dog-like, jumps upon him who maintains a +non-attacking attitude. In modern times, the old Christian philosophy +of turning the other cheek, as I have found, does not give the desired +results. + +The press, which, at my home-coming, had lavished praise and glowing +panegyric, now, as promptly, swung completely around and heaped upon my +head terms of opprobrium and obloquy. Faked news items were issued to +discredit me by Peary's associates; editors devoted space to jibes and +sarcasms at my expense; clever writers and cartoonists did their best to +make my name a humorous byword with my countrymen. Much of this I did +not know until long after. + +The suddenness of all this--the terrible injustice and unreasonableness +of it--simply overwhelmed me. Arriving from the cruel North, completely +spent in body and in mind, the rest that I was urgently in need of had +been constantly denied me. Instead, I had been caught up and held within +a perfect maelstrom of excitement. That excitement still ran like fever +in my veins. The plaudits of the multitude were still ringing in my ears +when this horror of a world's contumely burst on my head. I could only +bow my head and let the storm spend itself about me. Sick at heart and +dazed in mind, conscious only of a vague disgust with all the world and +myself, I longed for respite and forgetfulness within the bosom of my +family. + +So, quietly, I decided to retire for a year, out of reach of the yellow +papers; out of reach of the grind of the pro-Peary mill of infamy, still +maintaining silence rather than stoop to the indignity of showing up the +dark side of Mr. Peary's character. Having returned, I hesitate to do it +now; but the weaving of the leprous blanket of infamy with which Peary +and his supporters attempted to cover me cannot be understood unless we +look through Mr. Peary's eyes--regard other explorers as he regarded +them; regard the North as his inalienable property as he did, and regard +his infamous, high-handed injustices as right. + +I have now decided to uncover the incentive of this one-sided fight to +which I have so long maintained a non-attacking attitude. I had hoped, +almost against hope, that the public would ultimately understand, +without a word from me, the humbug of the mudslingers who were +attempting to defame my character. I had felt sure that the hand which +did the besmearing was silhouetted clearly against the blackness of its +own making. But the storm of a sensation-seeking press later so +thickened the atmosphere that the public, from which one has a sure +guarantee of fair play, was denied a clear view. + +Now that the storm has spent its force; now that the hand which did the +mudslinging has within its grasp the unearned gain which it sought; now +that a clear point of observation can be presented, I am compelled, with +much reluctance and distaste, to reveal the unpleasant and unknown past +of the man who tried to ruin me; showing how unscrupulous and brutal he +was to others before me; with evidence in hand, I shall reveal how he +wove his web of defamation and how his friends conspired with him in the +darkest, meanest and most brazen conspiracy in the history of +exploration. + +In doing this, my aim is not to challenge Mr. Peary's claim, but to +throw light on unwritten pages of history, which pages furnish the key +to unlock the longclosed door of the Polar controversy and the +pro-Peary conspiracy. + +From the earliest days, Mr. Peary's effort to reach the Pole was +undertaken primarily for purposes of personal commercial gain. For +twenty years he has passed the hat along lines of easy money. That hat +would be passing to-day if the game had not been, in the opinion of +many, spoiled by my success. + +For nearly twenty years he sought to be promoted over the heads of +stay-at-home but hardworking naval officers. During all of this time, +while on salary as a naval officer, he was away engaged in private +enterprises from which hundreds of thousands of dollars went into his +pockets. By wire-pulling and lobbying he succeeded in having the +American Navy pay him an unearned salary. Such a man could not afford to +divide the fruits of Polar attainment with another. + +In 1891, as the steamer _Kite_ went north, Mr. Peary began to evince the +brutal, selfish spirit which later was shown to every explorer who had +the misfortune to cross his trail. Nansen had crossed Greenland; his +splendid success was in the public eye. Mr. Peary attempted to belittle +the merited applause by saying that Nansen had borrowed the "Peary +system." But Peary had borrowed the Nordenskiold system, without giving +credit. A few months later, Mr. John M. Verhoeff, the meteorologist of +the _Kite_ expedition, was accorded such unbrotherly treatment that he +left his body in a glacial crevasse in preference to coming home on the +same ship with Mr. Peary. This man had paid $2,000 for the privilege of +being Peary's companion. + +Eivind Astrup, another companion of Peary, a few years later was +publicly denounced because he had written a book on his own scientific +observations and did work which Peary had himself neglected to do. This +attempt to discredit a young, sensitive explorer was followed by his +mental unbalancement and suicide. + +About 1897, Peary took from the people of the Farthest North the +Eskimos' treasured "Star Stone." At some remote period in the unknown +history of the frigid North, thousands of years ago, when, possibly, the +primitive forefathers of the Eskimos were perishing from inability to +obtain food in that fierce war waged between Nature and crude, blindly +struggling, aboriginal life because of a lack of weapons with which to +kill, there swiftly, roaringly, descended from the mysterious skies a +gigantic meteoric mass of burning, white-hot iron. Whence it came, those +dazed and startled people knew not; they regarded it, as their +descendants have regarded it, with baffled mystified terror; later, with +reverence, gratitude, and a feeling akin to awe. Gazing skyward, in the +long, starlit nights, there undoubtedly welled up surgingly in the wild +hearts of these innocent, Spartan children of nature, a feeling of +vague, instinctive wonder at the Power which swung the boreal lamps in +heaven; which moves the worlds in space; which sweeps in the northern +winds, and which, for the creatures of its creation, apparently +consciously, and often by means seemingly miraculous, provides methods +of obtaining the sources of life. As the meteor and its two smaller +fragments cooled, the natives, by the innate and adaptive ingenuity of +aboriginal man, learned to chip masses from it, from which were shaped +knives and arrows and spearheads. It became their mine of treasure, +more precious than gold; it was their only means of making weapons for +obtaining that which sustained life. With new weapons, they developed +the art of spear-casting and arrow-throwing. As the centuries passed, +animals fell easy prey to their skill; the starvation of elder ages gave +way to plenty. + +The arm of God, it is said in the Scriptures, is long. From the far +skies it extended to these people of an ice-sheeted, rigorous land, that +they might survive, this miraculous treasure. It seemed, however, that +the arm of man, in its greed, proved likewise long; and as the strange +providence which gave these people their chief means of killing was +kind, so the arm of man was cruel. + +In 1894, R. E. Peary, regarding the Arctic world as his own, the people +as his vassals, came north, and a year later took from these natives, +without their consent, the two smaller fragments. In 1897 he took "The +Tent," or Great Iron Stone, the natives' last and one source of mineral +wealth and ancestral treasure. That it was these people's great source +of securing metal meant nothing to him; that it was a scientific curio, +whereby he might secure a specious credit from the well-fed armchair +gentlemen of science at home, meant much to the man who later did not +hesitate to employ methods of dishonor to try to secure exclusive credit +of the achievement of the Pole. Just as he later tried to rob me of +honor, so he ruthlessly took from these people a thing that meant +abundance of game--and game there meant life. + +The great "Iron Stone" was hauled aboard the S. S. _Hope_, and brought +to New York. Today it reposes in the Museum of Natural History--a +bulky, black heap of metal, which can be viewed any day by the well-fed +and curious. In the North, where he will not go again to give his +mythical "abundance of guns and ammunition," the Eskimos need the metal +which was sold to Mrs. Morris K. Jesup (who presented it to the museum) +for $40,000. That money went into Mr. Peary's pockets. In a land where +laws existed this act would be regarded as a high-handed, monumental and +dishonorable theft. One who might attempt now to purloin the ill-gotten +hulk from the museum would be prosecuted. Taken from the people to whose +ancestors it was sent, as if by a providence that is divine, and to whom +it meant life, it gave Mr. Peary so-called scientific honors among his +friends. In the name of religion, it has been said, many crimes have +been committed. It remained for this man to reveal what atrocious things +could be done in the fair name of science. + +At about the same time a group of seven or eight Eskimos were put aboard +a ship against their will and brought to New York for museum purposes. +They were locked up in a cellar in New York, awaiting a market place. +Before the profit-time arrived, because of unhygienic surroundings and +improper food, all but one died. When in the grip of death, through a +Mrs. Smith, who ministered to their last wants, they appealed with tears +in their eyes for some word from Mr. Peary. They begged that he extend +them the attention of visiting them before their eyes closed to a world +of misery and trouble. There came no word and no responsive call from +the man who was responsible for their suffering. Of seven or eight +innocent wild people, but one little child survived. That +one--Mene--was later even denied a passage back to his fathers' land by +Mr. Peary. + +A few years later, the Danish Literary Expedition visited the +northernmost Eskimos in their houses. The splendid hospitality shown the +Danes by the Eskimos saved their lives. The Danish people, aiming to +express their gratitude for this unselfish Eskimo kindness, sent a ship +to their shores on the following year, loaded with presents, at an +expenditure of many thousands of kroner. That ship, under the direction +of Captain Schoubye, left at North Star great quantities of food, iron +and wood. After the Danes had turned their backs, Mr. Peary came along +and deliberately, high-handedly, took many of the things. This story is +told today by every member of the tribe whom Peary claims to have +befriended, whom he calls "my people." + +The sad story of the unavoidable deaths by starvation of the members of +General Greely's Expedition has for years been issued and reissued to +the press by Mr. Peary and his press agents, in such form as to +discredit General Greely and his co-workers. His own inhuman doings +about Cape Sabine and the old Greely stamping-grounds have been +suppressed. + +In 1901 the ship _Erik_ left Mr. Peary, with a large group of native +helpers, near Cape Sabine. An epidemic, brought by the Peary ship, soon +after attacked the Eskimos. Many died; others survived to endure a slow +torture. Peary had no doctor and no medicine. In the year previous, +Peary had shown the same spirit to the ever faithful Dr. Dedrick that he +had shown to Verhoeff, to Astrup, and to others. Although Dedrick could +not endure Peary's unfairness, he remained, against instructions, +within reach for just such an emergency as this epidemic presented. He +offered his services when the epidemic broke out, but Peary refused his +offer, and allowed the natives to die rather than permit a competent +medical expert to attend the afflicted. + +Near the same point, a year later, Captain Otto Sverdrup wintered with +his ship. His mission was to explore the great unknown to the west. This +unexplored country had been under Mr. Peary's eye for ten years; but +instead of exploring it, his time was spent in an easy and comparatively +luxurious life about a comfortable camp. When Sverdrup's men visited the +Peary ship, they were denied common brotherly courtesy and were refused +the hospitality which is universally granted, by an unwritten law, to +all field workers. Mr. Peary even refused to send him, on his returning +ship, important letters and papers which Sverdrup desired taken back. He +also refused to allow Sverdrup to take native guides and dogs-which did +not belong to Mr. Peary. This same courtesy was later denied to Captain +Bernier, of the Canadian Expedition. + +Thus attempting to make a private preserve of the unclaimed North, he +attempted to discredit and thwart every other explorer's effort. In line +with the same policy, every member of every Peary expedition has been +muzzled with a contract which prevented talking or writing after the +expedition's return--contracts by which Mr. Peary derived the sole +credit, the entire profit, and all the honor of the results of the men +who volunteered their services and risked their lives. This same spirit +was shown at the time when, at 87° 45´´, he turned Captain Bartlett +back, because he (Peary), to use his own words, "wanted all the honors." + +In profiting by his long quest for funds for legitimate exploration, we +find Peary engaged in private enterprises for which public funds were +used. Much of this money was, in my judgment, used to promote a +lucrative fur and ivory trade, while the real effort of getting to the +Pole was delayed, seemingly, for commercial gain. I believe the Pole +might have been reached ten years earlier. But delay was profitable. + +After being thus engaged for years in a propaganda of self-exploitation, +in assailing other explorers whom he regarded as rivals, in committing +deeds in the North unworthy of an American and officer of the Navy, +Peary, knowing that I had started Poleward, knowing that relief must +inevitably be required, ultimately appropriated my supplies, and +absolutely prevented any effort to reach me, which even the natives +themselves might have made. Peary knew he was endangering my life. He +knew that he was getting ivory and furs in return for supplies belonging +to me, and which I should need. He knew, also, that it would not +coincide with his selfish purposes of appropriating all honor and profit +if I reached the Pole and should return and tell the world. His +deliberate act was in itself--whether so designed or not--an effort to +kill a brother explorer. The stains of at least a dozen other lives are +on this man. + +The property which Peary took from Francke and myself, with the hand of +a buccaneer and the heart of a hypocrite, was worth thirty-five thousand +dollars. This was done, not to insure expedition needs, but to satisfy +a hunger for commercial gain, and to inflict a cowardly, underhanded +injury on a rival. All of my caches, my camp equipment, my food, were +taken; and under his own handwriting he gave the orders which deprived +me of all relief efforts at a time when relief was of vital importance. +Certainly to all appearances this was a deliberate, preconceived plan to +kill a rival worker by starvation. Here we find an American naval +officer stooping to a trick for which he would be hanged in a mining +camp. + +Many members of his expeditions, some rough seamen, speak with +shuddering of his actions in that far-away North. In my possession are +affidavits, voluntarily made and given to me by members of Mr. Peary's +expeditions, revealing gross actions, which, in an officer of the Navy, +call for investigation. Mention has been made of certain facts, because, +only by knowing these things, can people understand the spirit and +character of the man and the unscrupulous attacks made upon me, and +understand, also, why, out of a sense of delicacy and dislike for +mudslinging, I remained silent so long. It is only because the public +has been misled by a sensational press, because I realize I have +suffered by my own silence, in order that history may know the full +truth and accord a just verdict, that with reluctance, with a sense of +shuddering distaste, I have been compelled to present these unpleasant +pages of unwritten Arctic history. + +When Mr. Peary and his partisans attacked me they hesitated at nothing +that was untrue, cruel and dishonorable--forgery and perjury even seemed +justifiable to them in their effort to discredit me. I still hesitate +to speak of certain unworthy, unblushing and utterly cruel acts of which +Mr. Peary is guilty. I would have preferred to remain silent about the +actions of which I have told. + +Assuming the attitude of one above reproach, Peary, upon his return, +assailed me as a dishonest person who tried to rob him of honor. Had the +actual and full truths been told at the time about Peary's life in the +North, his charges would have rebounded annihilatingly upon himself. For +certain things the people of this country, who are clean, honest and +fair, will not stand. The facts told about Peary in the affidavits given +me make his charges of dishonor and dishonesty against me a travesty, +indeed. Yet, at a time when I might have profited by revealing phases of +Mr. Peary's personal character, I preferred to remain silent. Of certain +things men do not care to speak. Although Mr. Peary and his friends +endeavored to make the Polar controversy a personal one, I regarded Mr. +Peary's personal actions as having no bearing upon his, or my, having +attained the Pole. He and his friends forced a personal fight; they +tried to injure my veracity, my reputation for truth-telling, my +personal honor. I had hoped against hope that the truth would resolve +itself without any necessity of my revealing elements of Mr. Peary's +character. I have herein recited pages from his past, known to Arctic +explorers but not to the general public, so that his attitude toward me +may be understood. Yet all, indeed, has not been told. Although Mr. +Peary did not scruple to lie about me, I still hesitate to tell the full +truth about him. + +In the white, frozen North a tragedy was enacted which would bring +tears to the hearts of all who possess human tenderness and kindness. +This has never been written. To write it would still further reveal the +ruthlessness, the selfishness, the cruelty of the man who tried to ruin +me. Yet here I prefer the charity of silence, where, indeed, charity is +not at all merited. + +The knowledge of these facts tempered the shocks I felt when the Peary +campaign of defamation was first made against me. I told myself that a +man who had done these things would, in the nature of things, be branded +by the truth, as he deserved. + +I was not so greatly surprised that Peary tried to steal my honor. I +knew that he had stolen tangible things. Yet the theft of food, even +though a man's life depends upon it, is not so awful as the attempt to +steal the good name a father hopes to bequeath his children. Yet Peary +has attempted to do this. + +He has attempted to blacken me in the eyes of my family; but, with the +conscience of a brute, he has deserted two of his own children--left +them to starve and freeze in the cheerless north. They are there today +crying for food and a father, while he enjoys a life of luxury at the +expense of the American tax-payers. This statement calls for an +investigation by the Secretary of the Navy. See photograph of the +deserted child of the Sultan of the North, facing page 493. + + + + +THE MT. McKINLEY BRIBERY + +THE BRIBED, FAKED AND FORGED NEWS ITEMS--THE PRO-PEARY MONEY POWERS +ENCOURAGE PERJURY--MT. M'KINLEY HONESTLY CLIMBED--HOW, FOR PEARY, A +SIMILAR PEAK WAS FAKED + +XXXIV + +HOW A MAN'S SOUL WAS MARKETED + + +After Mr. Peary had done his utmost to try to disprove my Polar +attainment; after the chain of newspapers which, for him, in conjunction +with the New York _Times_, had printed the same egregious lies on the +same days, from the Atlantic to the Pacific; after they had expended all +possible ammunition, the damages inflicted were still insufficient. My +narrative, as published in the New York _Herald_, was still more +generally credited than Mr. Peary's. To gain his end, something else had +to be done. Something else was done. The darkest page of defamation in +the world's history of exploration was now written by the hands of +bribers and perjurers. + +The public suddenly turned from the newspaper-inculcated idea of "proof" +in figures to a more sane examination of personal veracity. To destroy +my reputation for truth in the public mind was the next unscrupulous +effort decided upon. The selfish and self-evident press campaign, +obviously managed by the Peary cabal, to that end had given +unsatisfactory results. Some vital blow must be delivered by fair +means or otherwise. + +The climb of Mt. McKinley was now challenged. + +I had made a first ascent of the great mid-Alaskan peak in 1906. The +record of that conquest was published during my absence in the North, +under the title, "To the Top of the Continent." The book, being printed +at a time when I was unable to see the proofs, contained some mistakes; +but in it was all the data that could be presented for such an +undertaking. + +The Board of Aldermen of the City of New York decided to honor me by +offering the keys and the freedom of the metropolis on October 15. This +was to be an important event. The pro-Peary conspiracy aiming to deliver +striking blows through the press, their propaganda was so planned that +the bribed, faked and forged news items were issued on days which gave +them dramatic and psychologic climaxes. Two days before the New York +demonstration in my favor, the pretentious full-page broadside of +distorted Eskimo information was issued. This fell flat; for it was +instantly seen to be a pretentious rearrangement of old charges. But it +was so played up as to fill columns of newspaper space and impress +readers by its magnitude. This was followed by the Barrill affidavit, +similarly played up so as to fill a full newspaper page, which I shall +analyze later. All this was done to draw a black cloud over the day of +honor in New York, the 15th day of October. + +Since the published affidavit of my old associate, Barrill, was a +document which proved him a self-confessed liar; since the affidavit +carried with it the earmarks of pro-Peary bribery and perjury, I +reasoned again that fair-minded people would in time see through this +moneyed campaign of dishonor. In all history it has been shown that he +who seeks to besmear others usually leaves the greatest amount of mud on +himself. But again I had not counted on the unfairness of the press. + +The only reason given that I should have faked the climb of Mt. McKinley +is that, in some vague way, I was to profit mightily by a successful +report. The expedition was to have been financed by a rich Philadelphia +sportsman. He did advance the greater portion of the sum required. We +were to prepare a game trail for him. Something interfered, he +relinquished his trip, and did not send the balance of money promised. + +The result was that many checks I had given out went to protest. Harper +& Brothers had agreed, before starting, to pay me $1,500 for an account +of the expedition, whether successful or not. On my return this was +paid, and went to meet outstanding debts--debts to pay which I +embarrassed myself. Instead of "profits" from this alleged "fake," I +suffered a loss of several thousand dollars. + +As is quite usual in all exploring expeditions, some of the members of +my Mt. McKinley expedition, who did not share in the final success, were +disgruntled. Chief among these was Herschell Parker. Owing to ill-health +and inexperience, Parker had proved himself inefficient in Alaskan work. +Climbing a little peak forty miles from the great mountain, when he was +with me, he had pronounced Mt. McKinley unclimbable. Climbing a similar +hill, four years later, he stooped to the humbug of offering a +photograph of it as a parallel to my picture of the top of Mt. McKinley. +This man was so ill-fitted for such work that two men were required to +help him mount a horse. But I insisted that we continue at least to the +base of the mountain. At the first large glacier, Parker and his +companion, Belmore Brown, balked, halting in front of an insignificant +ice-wall. The ascent of Mt. McKinley, still thirty-five miles off, they +said, was impossible. Parker returned, and in a trail of four thousand +miles to New York told every press representative how impossible was the +ascent of Mt. McKinley. By the time Parker reached New York a cable went +through that the thing was done. At a point four thousand miles from the +scene of action, he again cried, "Impossible!" When I returned to New +York, however, a month later, and Parker learned the details, he +publicly and privately credited my ascent of Mt. McKinley. Nothing +further was said to doubt the climb until two years later, when he lined +up with the Peary interests. + +Using Parker as a tool, Peary's Arctic Club, through him, first forced +the side-issue of Mt. McKinley. With the Barrill affidavit, made later, +were printed other affidavits by Barrill's friends, who had not been +within fifty miles of the mountain when it was climbed. This act, to me, +was a bitter climax of injustice. But I have since learned that Printz +got $500 of pro-Peary money; that both Miller and Beecher were promised +large amounts, but were cheated at the "showdown." Printz afterwards +wrote that he would make an affidavit for me for $300, and at Missoula +he made an affidavit in which he attempted to defend me.[26] This he +offered to sell to Roscoe Mitchell for $1,000. + +While easy pro-Peary money was passing in the West, Parker came forward +with his old grudge. His chief contention was that, because he had taken +home with him in deserting the object of the expedition a hypsometer, I +could not have measured the high altitudes claimed. The altitude had +been measured by triangulation by the hydrographer of the expedition, +but I had other methods of measuring the ascent. + +I had two aneroid barometers, specially marked for very high climbing, +thermometers, and all the usual Alpine instruments. The hypsometer was +not at that time an important instrument. Parker also showed unfair +methods by allowing the press repeatedly to print that he had been the +leader and the organizer of the expedition. This he knew to be false. I +had organized two expeditions to explore Mt. McKinley, at a cost of +$28,000. Of this Parker had furnished $2,500. Parker took no part in the +organization of the last expedition, had given no advice to help supply +an adequate equipment, and in the field his presence was a daily +handicap to the progress of the expedition. Heretofore, this was never +indicated. But when he allows himself to be quoted as the leader of an +expedition upon which he attempts to throw discredit, then it is right +that all the facts be known. + +In the press reports, when Parker was first heard from, came the news +that on the Pacific coast, at Tacoma, a lawyer by the name of J. M. +Ashton was retained by someone. To the press Ashton said he was engaged +"to look into the McKinley business," but he did not know by +whom--whether by Cook or Peary. He was "engaged" in a business too +questionable to tell who furnished the money. + +In the final ascent of Mt. McKinley there was with me Edward Barrill, +the affidavit-maker. He was a good-natured and hard-working packer, who +had proved himself a most able climber. Together we ascended the +mountain in September, 1906. To this time (1909) there was not the +slightest doubt about the footprints on the top of the great mountain. +Barrill had told everybody that he knew, and all who would listen to +him, that the mountain was climbed. He went from house to house +boastfully, with my book under his arm, telling and retelling the story +of the ascent of Mt. McKinley. That anyone should now believe the +affidavit, secured and printed for Peary, did not to me seem reasonable. + +Parker, filling the position of betrayer and traitor to one who had +saved his life many times, had decided, as the Polar controversy opened, +to direct the Mt. McKinley side-issue of the pro-Peary effort. + +The first news of bribery in the matter came from Darby, Montana. This +was Barrill's home town. A Peary man from Chicago was there. He frankly +said that he would pay Barrill $1,000 to offer news that would discredit +the climb of Mt. McKinley. Other news of the dishonest pro-Peary +movement induced me to send Roscoe Mitchell, of the New York _Herald_, +to the working ground of the bribers. Mitchell was working under the +direction of my attorneys, H. Wellington Wack, of New York, Colonel +Marshal, of Missoula, and General Weed, of Helena, Montana. + +Mitchell secured testimony and evidence regarding the buying of Barrill, +but was unable to put the conspirators in jail. At Hamilton, Montana, +there had appeared a man with $5,000 to pass to Barrill. Barrill's first +reply was that he had climbed the mountain; that Dr. Cook had climbed +the mountain; that to take that $5,000, in his own words, he "would have +to sell his own soul." Barrill's business partner, Bridgeford, was +present. He later made an affidavit for Mr. Mitchell covering this part +of the pro-Peary perjury effort. + +A little later, however, Barrill said to his partner he "might as well +see what was in it." Five thousand dollars to Barrill meant more than +five million dollars to Mr. Peary or his friends. To Barrill, ignorant, +poor, good-natured, but weak, it was an irresistible temptation. + +Barrill now went to Seattle. He visited the office of the Seattle +_Times_. In the presence of the editor, Mr. Joe Blethen, he dickered for +the sale of an affidavit to discredit me. He knew such an affidavit had +news value. Indefinite offers ranging from $5,000 to $10,000 were made. +Not getting a lump sum off-hand, Barrill, dissatisfied, then went over +to Tacoma, to the mysterious Mr. Ashton. That all this was done, was +told me on my trip west shortly afterward, by Mr. Blethen himself. + +After visiting Ashton, Barrill was seen in a bank in Tacoma. Barrill had +said to his partner that to make an affidavit denying my climb would be +"selling his soul." Barrill, ill at ease, reluctant, appeared. It is a +terrible thing to lure a weak man to dishonor; it is still more tragic +and awful when that man is bought so his lie may hurt another. The time +for the parting of his soul had arrived in the bank. With the sadness of +a funeral mourner Barrill was pushed along. The talk was in a muffled +undertone. But it all happened. In the presence of a witness, whose +evidence I am ready to produce, $1,500 was passed to him. This money was +paid in large bills, and placed in Barrill's money-belt. There were +other considerations, and I know where some of this money was spent. His +soul was marketed at last. The infamous affidavit was then prepared. + +This affidavit was printed first in the New York _Globe_. The _Globe_ is +partly owned and entirely controlled by General Thomas H. Hubbard, the +President of the Peary Club. With General Hubbard, Mr. Peary had +consulted at Bar Harbor immediately after his return from Sydney. +Together they had outlined their campaign. General Hubbard is a +multi-millionaire. A tremendous amount of money was spent in the Peary +campaign. In the Mt. McKinley affidavit of Barrill we can trace bribery, +a conspiracy, and black dishonor, right up to the door of R. E. Peary. + +If Peary is not the most unscrupulous self-seeker in the history of +exploration, caught in underhand, surreptitious acts too cowardly to be +credited to a thief, caught in the act of bartering for men's souls and +honor in as ruthless a way as he high-handedly took others' property in +the North; if he, drawing an unearned salary from the American Navy, has +not brindled his soul with stripes that fit his body for jail, let him +come forward and reply. If Peary is not the most conscienceless of +self-exploiters in all history, caught in the act of stealing honor by +forcing dishonor, let him come forward and explain the Mt. McKinley +perjury. + +Now let us examine the others who were lined up in this desperate black +hand movement. In New York there is a club, at first organized to bring +explorers together and to encourage original research. It bore the name +of Explorers' Club; but, as is so often the case with clubs that +monopolize a pretentious name, the membership degenerated. It is now +merely an association of museum collectors. Among real explorers, this +club to-day is jocularly known as the "Worm Diggers' Union." In 1909 Mr. +Peary was president. His press agent, Bridgman, was the moving spirit, +and one of Colonel Mann's muck-rakers was secretary. Of course, such a +society, committed to Peary, had no use for Dr. Cook. + +In a spirit of helping along the pro-Peary conspiracy, and after the +Barrill affidavit was secured, the Explorers' Club took upon itself the +supererogatory duty of appointing a committee to pass on my ascent of +Mt. McKinley. There was but one real explorer on this committee. The +others were kitchen geographers, whose honor and fairness had been +bartered to the Peary interests before the investigation began. Without +a line of data before them, they decided, with glee and gusto, that Mt. +McKinley had not been climbed. This was what one would expect from such +an honor-blind group of meddlers. But Mr. Peary's press worker, +Bridgman, who himself had engineered the investigation, used this +seeming verdict of experts to Mr. Peary's advantage.[27] + +Still all these combined underhanded efforts failed to reach vital spots +and to turn the entire public Mr. Peary's way. Something more must still +be done, Peary's press agent offered $3,000, and the cowardly Ashton, of +Tacoma, offered another $3,000, to send an expedition to Alaska, to +further the pro-Peary effort to down a rival. The traitor, Parker, +responded. He was joined by the other quitter, Belmore Brown, who has +conveniently forgotten to return borrowed money to me. This +Peary-Parker-Brown combination went to Alaska in 1910, engaged in mining +pursuits and hunting adventures. They returned with the expected and +framed report that Mt. McKinley had not been climbed, and that they had +climbed a snow-hill, had photographed it, and that the photograph was +similar to mine of the topmost peak of Mt. McKinley. Mt. McKinley has a +base twenty-five miles wide; it has upon the various slopes of its giant +uplift hundreds of peaks, all glacial, polished, and of a similar +contour. No one peak towers gigantically above the others. On the top +are many peaks, no particular one of which can with any accuracy of +inches be decided arbitrarily as the very highest. The top of a mountain +does not converge to a pin-point apex. One looks out, not into immediate +space on all sides, but over an area, as I have said, of many peaks. My +photograph of the peak, which loomed highest among the others on the +top, possesses a profile not unusual among ice-cut rocks. The +Peary-Parker-Brown seekers tried hard to duplicate this photograph, so +as to show I had faked my picture. The thing might have been done easily +in the Canadian Rockies. It could be done in a dozen more accessible +places in Alaska; but, without real work, it could be only crudely done +near Mt. McKinley. The photograph which Peary's friends offered to +discredit the first ascent is one of a double peak, part of which +vaguely suggests but a poor outline of Mt. McKinley, and in which a rock +has been faked. Who is responsible for this humbug? Where is the +negative? The photograph bears no actual semblance to my picture of the +top of Mt. McKinley whatever. But why was the negative faked? Parker +excuses the evident unfairness of the dissimilar photograph by saying +that he could not get the same position as I must have had. But is +laziness or haste an excuse when a man's honor is assailed.[28] + +Let us follow the Peary high-handed humbugs further. To the southeast of +Mt. McKinley is a huge mountain, which I named Mt. Disston in 1905. This +peak was robbed of its name, and over it Parker wrote Mt. Huntington. To +the northeast of Mt. McKinley is another peak, charted on my maps, to +which Peary gave the name of the president of the Peary Arctic Trust. To +this peak was given the same name, by the same methods of stealing the +credit of other explorers, as that adopted by Peary when, in response to +$25,000 of easy money, he wrote the same name, "Thomas Hubbard," over +Sverdrup's northern point of Heiberg Land. Can it be doubted that the +Peary-Parker-Brown propaganda of hypocrisy and dishonor in Alaska is +guided by no other spirit than that of Mr. Peary? + +Many persons say: "We will credit Dr. Cook's attainment of the Pole +if this Mt. McKinley matter is cleared up." I have heard this often. +I have offered in my book proofs of the climb--the same proofs any +mountain-climber offers. To discredit these, my enemies stooped to +bribery. I have in my possession, and have stated here, proofs of this. +Such proofs are even more tangible than the climbing of a far-away +mountain. Is any other clarifier or any other evidence required to prove +the pro-Peary frauds? + + +THE PEARY-PARKER-BROWN HUMBUG UP TO DATE + + This chapter is best closed by an analysis of the second effort of + Parker and Brown. It will be remembered that in their first venture + as hirelings of the Peary propaganda, they balked at the north-east + ridge, without making a serious attempt. This ridge--(the ridge upon + which I had climbed to the top of Mt. McKinley) was pronounced + impossible and therefore my claim in their judgment was false, for + such a statement $3,000.00 had been paid. During the spring of 1912, + again with $5,000 of Pro-Peary money to discredit me--The same + hirelings went through the range, attacked the same ridge from the + west and by the really able efforts of their guide, La Voy, a point + near the top was reached. The Associated Press report of this effort + said that the principal result of the expedition was to show that the + north-east ridge (the ridge which I had climbed), was climbable. The + very men sent out and paid, therefore, by my enemies to disprove my + work have proven, against their will, my first ascent of Mt. McKinley. + + Two other exploring parties were about the slopes of Mt. McKinley + during the time of the Peary-Parker defamers. The first, a group of + hardy Alaskan pioneers, whose report is written in the Overland + Magazine for February, 1913, by Ralph H. Cairns--after an unbiased + study of reports both for and against, Cairns credits my first ascent. + The well known Engineer R. C. Bates, who as a U. S. revenue inspector + of mines and an explorer and mountain climber, did much pioneer work + about Mt. McKinley. He also goes on record in the Los Angeles Tribune + of February 13th, 1913, as saying: "Dr. Cook really succeeded in + ascending the north-east ridge of Mt. McKinley as claimed in 1906." + Bates confirms the charge of $5,000 being paid the Parker-Brown + expedition to refute my 1906 ascent, and says: "In 1906 Dr. Cook + claimed he climbed Mt. McKinley by the north-east ridge. In the + account of the 1910 expedition, Parker claimed that 'the north-east + ridge, the one used by Dr. Cook, was absolutely unsurmountable'. I, + with a party of two, explored the mountain in 1911 and selected the + north-east ridge as the only feasible route to the top. I ascended to + 11,000 feet, according to barometric measure. I told of the exploit + to members of the Parker party, who took the same course in 1912. + Mr. Parker now contradicts his former statement by saying, 'The + north-east ridge is the only feasible ridge, and whoever goes up will + follow in my footsteps.'" It is important to note that Dr. Cook's + previous footsteps were eliminated, $5,000 had been paid for that very + purpose. + + In a personal interview Mr. Bates made the very grave change that one + of the leaders of the very expedition sent out to discredit me, had + offered him a bribe to swear falsely to certain assessment work on + claims which had not been done. The Peary-Parker-Brown movement is + therefore from many sources a proven propaganda of bribery, conspiracy + and perjury. That such men can escape the doom of prison cells is + a parody upon human decency, and yet such are the men who are + responsible for the distrust which has been thrown on my work. + + + + +THE DUNKLE-LOOSE FORGERY + +ITS PRO-PEARY MAKING + +XXXV + +THE LAST PERJURED DEFAMATION + + +With the bitterness of the money-bought document to shatter my veracity +regarding the ascent of Mt. McKinley ever before me, I canceled in +November all my lecture engagements. Mr. William M. Grey, then managing +my tour, broke contracts covering over $140,000. But, for the time +being, these could not be filled. I was nearing a stage of mental and +physical exhaustion, and required rest. Seeking a quiet retreat, my wife +and I left the Waldorf-Astoria and secured quarters at the Gramatan Inn, +in Bronxville, N. Y. Here was prepared my report and data to be sent to +Copenhagen. + +At this time, as if again destined by fate, innocently I made my +greatest error, opened myself to what became the most serious and +damaging charge against my good faith, and the misstated account of +which, published later, was used by my enemies in their efforts to brand +me as a conscious faker and deliberate fraud. + +When I now think of the incidents leading up to the acquaintance of +Dunkle and Loose, it does seem that I had lost all sense of balance, and +that my brain was befogged. Shortly before I had started West, Dunkle +was brought to me by Mr. Bradley on the pretext of wanting to talk life +insurance. + +During my lecture tour threats from fanatics reached me, and in my +nervous condition it was not hard for me to believe that my life was in +danger. Then, too, it seemed that all the money I had made might be +spent in efforts to defend myself. I decided to protect my wife and +children by life insurance. How Dunkle guessed this--if he did--I do not +know. But at just the right moment he appeared, and I fell into the +insurance trap. + +At the time I did not know that Dunkle had been a professional +"subscription-raiser," who, while I was in the North, had volunteered to +raise money for a relief expedition--provided he was given an exorbitant +percentage. + +For this reason both Anthony Fiala and Dillon Wallace had refused to +introduce him to me before he secured the introduction by Mr. Bradley. +When Mrs. Cook first saw him, with feminine intuition she said: + +"Don't have anything to do with that man. I don't like his looks." + +I did not heed this, however. After some futile life insurance talk, he +surprised me by saying irrelevantly: + +"By the way, I have an expert navigator, a friend of mine, who can prove +that Peary was not at the Pole." + +"I have not challenged Mr. Peary's claim," I replied, "and do not wish +to. The New York _Herald_, however, may listen to what you have to say." +That was all that was said at the time. + +After my return from the western lecture tour, Dunkle seemed to be +always around, and at every opportunity spoke to me. He gained a measure +of confidence by criticising the press campaign waged against me. I +naturally felt kindly toward anyone who was sympathetic. At this time, +when the problem of accurate observations was worrying me, when my mind +was beginning to weigh the problem of scientific accuracy--again just at +the psychological moment--Dunkle brought Loose out to the Gramatan Inn +and introduced him to me, saying that he was an expert navigator. + +Pretending a knowledge of the situation in Europe, Loose told me the +Danes were becoming impatient. I replied that I was busy preparing my +report. + +"Something ought to be done in the meantime," he said. "Now, I have +connections with some of the Scandinavian papers, and I think some +friendly articles in the meantime would allay this unrest." + +The idea seemed reasonable; anything that would help me was welcome, and +I told Loose, if he wanted to, that he might go ahead. He visited me +several times, and broached the subject of the possible outcome of the +Copenhagen verdict. By this time I felt fairly friendly with him. +Finally he brought me several articles. They seemed weak and irrelevant. +Lonsdale read them, said there was not much to them, but that they might +help. Loose mailed the articles--or said he did. Then, to my amazement, +he made the audacious suggestion that I let him go over my material. I +flatly refused. + +He pointed out, what I myself had been thinking about, that all +observations were subject to extreme inaccuracy. He suggested his +working mine out backward to verify them. As I regarded him as an +experienced navigator, I thought this of interest. I was not a +navigator, and, moreover, had had no chance of checking my figures. So, +desiring an independent view, and thinking that another man's method +might satisfy any doubts, I told him to go ahead, using the figures +published in my story in the New York _Herald_. + +At the time I told him to purchase for me a "Bowditch Navigator," which +I lacked, and any other almanacs and charts he needed for himself. He +came out to the Gramatan to live. Arrangements for his stay had been +made by Dunkle--under the name of Lewis, I have been told since--but I +knew nothing of this at the time. I gave Loose $250, which was to +compensate him in full for the articles and his running expenses. It +struck me that he took an unnecessarily long time to finish his work of +checking my calculations. + +Late one night, returning from the city, I went to his room. Dunkle was +there. Papers were strewn all over the room. + +"Well," said Loose, "I think we have this thing all fixed up." + +Dunkle, smooth-tongued and friendly as ever, said, "Now, Doctor, I want +to advise you to put your own observations aside. _Send these to +Copenhagen!_" + +I looked up amazed, incredulous. I felt stunned for the moment, and said +little. I then took the trouble to look over all the papers carefully. +There was a full set of faked observations. The examination took me an +hour. During that time Dunkle and Loose were talking in a low tone. I +did not hear what they said. I saw at once the game the rascals had been +playing. The insinuation of their nefarious suggestion for the moment +cleared my mind, and a dull anger filled me. + +"Gentlemen," I said, "pack up every scrap of this paper in that +dress-suit case. Take all of your belongings and leave this hotel at +once." + +I stood there while they did so. Not a word was spoken. Sheepish and +silent, they shuffled from the room, ashamed and taken aback. Sick at +heart at the thought that these men should have considered me +unscrupulous enough to buy and use their faked figures, I went to my +room. From that day--November 22--I have not received a letter or +telegram from either. + +Months later, in South America, I read with horrified amazement a +summary of the account of this occurrence, sold by Dunkle and Loose to +the New York _Times_. Distorted and twisted as it was I doubt if even +the _Times_ would have used it had Dunkle and Loose not forced the lie +that these faked figures were sent to Copenhagen. They knew, as God +knows, that every scrap of paper on which they wrote was packed in a +suit-case as dirty as the intent of their sin-blotted paper. + +If my report to the Copenhagen University proved anything, it was, by +comparison, figure by figure, with the affidavits published, that in +this at least I was guilty of no fraud. + +In a re-examination later, a handwriting expert has come to the +conclusion that the name of Loose was forged, and Loose was later put in +jail for another offense. To the city editor of a New York evening paper +Loose offered to sell a story retracting the charges published in the +_Times_. Dunkle admitted to witnesses that he had been paid for the +affidavit published in the New York _Times_. Loose, willing to discredit +the _Times_ story, said, however, he "wanted big money" for a +retraction. One question that is forced in the interest of fair-play is, +Why did the New York _Times_, without investigation, print a news item +by which a man's honor is attacked, which is not only a perjury but a +forgery? The managing editor was shown the evidence of this forgery, +admitted its force, but not a word was printed to counteract the harm +done by printing false news. + +Captain E. B. Baldwin, a year later, discovered that this pro-Peary +faked stuff was in possession of Professor James H. Gore, one of Mr. +Peary's friends in the National Geographic Society, which prostituted +its name for Peary by passing upon valueless "proofs." From the methods +pursued by this society later, I am inclined to the belief that the +Dunkle-Loose fake was concocted for members of this society. If not, how +does it happen that Professor Gore is in possession of this faked, +forged, and perjured stuff? + + + + +HOW A GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETY PROSTITUTED ITS NAME + +XXXVI + +THE WASHINGTON VERDICT--THE COPENHAGEN VERDICT + + +While one group of pro-Peary men were early engaged in various +conspiracies, extending from New York to the Pacific coast, fabricating +false charges, faking, and forging news items designed to injure me, men +higher up in Washington were planning other deceptions behind closed +doors. The Mt. McKinley bribery and the Dunkle-Loose humbug had the +desired effect in reducing the opposition in Washington, and by December +of 1909 the controversy was settled to Mr. Peary's satisfaction by a +group of men who, by deception, betrayed public trust. + +The National Geographic Society very early assumed a meddlesome air in +an effort to dictate the distribution of Polar honors. With the excuse +that they would give a gold medal to him who could prove priority to the +claim of Polar discovery, they began a series of movements that would +put a dishonorable political campaign to shame. In the light of later +developments, medals from this society are regarded by true scientific +workers as badges of dishonor. By way of explanation, one of the +officers said that they made it a rule to examine all original field +observations before the society honored an explorer. This was a +deliberate falsehood, for no explorer going to Washington had previously +packed his field papers and instruments for inspection. If so, then this +society again convicts itself of a humbug, as it did later. Mr. Peary +had been given a gold medal for his claim of having reached the farthest +north in 1906. Peary admitted that his position rested on one imperfect +observation. I happened, quite by accident, to be in a position, soon +after Peary's return, to examine the instruments with which the farthest +north observations had been made. Every apparatus was so bent and +bruised that further observations were impossible. Of course Peary will +say that the instruments were injured en route on the return. But this +does not excuse the idle boast of the members of the National Geographic +Society, who said that they always examined a returning explorer's field +notes and apparatus, when in this case they did not see Mr. Peary's +observations nor his instruments. + +As a matter of fact, the National Geographic, like every other +geographic society, had previously rated the merits of an explorer's +work by his published reports. Their tactics were now changed to bring +about a position where they might focus the controversy to Mr. Peary's +and their advantage. There would have been no harm in this effort, if it +had been honest; but, as we will see presently, falsehood and deception +were evident in every move. + +The position of the National Geographic Society is very generally +misunderstood because of its pretentious use of the word "National." In +reality, it is neither national nor geographic. It is a kind of +self-admiration society, which serves the mission of a lecture bureau. +It has no connection with the Government and has no geographic authority +save that which it assumes. As a lecture bureau it had retained Mr. +Peary to fill an important position as its principal star for many +years. To keep him in the field as their head-line attraction they had +paid $1,000 to Mr. Peary for the very venture now in question. This +so-called "National" Geographic Society was, therefore, a stock owner in +the venture upon which they passed as an unbiased jury. + +Of course Mr. Peary consented to rest his case in their hands; but, for +reasons above indicated and for others given below, I refused to have +any dealings with such an unfair combination. The Government was +appealed to, and every political and private wire was pulled to compel +me to submit my case to a packed jury. During all the time when this was +done, its moving spirits, Gilbert Grosvenor and Admiral Chester, were +publicly and privately saying things about me and my attainment of the +Pole that no gentleman would utter. That Mr. Peary was a member of this +society; that his friends were absolute dictators of the power of +appointment; that they were stock owners in Mr. Peary's enterprise--all +of this, and a good many other facts, were carefully suppressed. To the +public this society declared they were "neutral, unbiased and +scientific"--no more deliberate lie than which was ever forced upon the +public. + +Of course I refused to place my case in dishonest pro-Peary hands. With +shameless audacity this society helped Mr. Peary carry along his press +campaign by disseminating the cowardly slurs of Grosvenor, Chester, and +others. They watched and encouraged the McKinley bribery; they closed +their eyes to the Kennan lies. Through Chester and others, they faked +pages of sensational pseudo-scientific news, all with the one centered +aim of forcing doubt on opposing interests before the crucial moment, +when, behind closed doors, the matter could be settled to their liking. + +Thus, when Peary, his club, and his affiliated boosters at Washington +were carrying their press slanders to a focus, there came a loud cry +from the National Geographic Society for proofs. + +With some wrangling, and a good deal of protest from half-hearted men, +like Professor Moore, a jury was appointed to pass upon Mr. Peary's +claims and mine. My claims were to be passed upon against my will. +Unbiased and real Arctic explorers like General Greely and Admiral +Schley were carefully excluded from this jury. Instead, armchair +geographers, who were closely related to the Peary interests, were +appointed as a "neutral jury," as follows: + +_Henry Gannett_, a close personal friend of Mr. Peary. + +_C. M. Chester_, related to Mr. Peary's fur trader, a member of a +coterie that divided the profits of fleecing the Eskimos. + +_O. H. Tittman_, chief of a department under which part of Mr. Peary's +work was done. + +With a flourish of trumpets, including pages of self-boosting news +distributed by Mr. Peary's press agents, this commission began its +important investigation. At the time, it was said that all of Mr. +Peary's original field papers and instruments were under careful +scrutiny. Later it was shown that one of the jury saw only COPIES. On +November 4, 1909, was issued the verdict of this jury: "That Commander +Peary reached the North Pole on April 6, 1909." + +This verdict, at its face value, was fair; but the circumstances which +surrounded it before and after were such as to raise a doubt that can +never be removed. With the verdict came the insinuation that no one else +had reached the Pole before Peary; that my claim of priority was +dishonest. A nagging press campaign continued to emanate from +Washington. + +I have no objection to Mr. Peary's friends endorsing him--a friend who +will stretch a point is not to be condemned. But when such friends stoop +to dishonorable methods to inflict injury upon others, then a protest is +in order. My aim here is not to deny that Mr. Peary reached the Pole +near enough for all practical purposes, but to show how men sacrificed +their word of honor to boost Mr. Peary and to discredit me. + +The verdict of this jury which was to settle the controversy for all +time was sent out on wires that encircled the globe. Soon after there +was a call for the data upon which that jury passed. The public called +for it; the Government called for it; foreign geographical societies +asked for it. No one was allowed to see the wonderful "proofs." Why? + +Officially, that commission said that Mr. Peary's contract with a +magazine prevented the publication of the "proofs." But every member of +the commission was on the Government pay-roll. Why, may we ask, should +a Government official be muzzled with a bid for commercial gain? This +contract was held by Benjamin Hampton, of _Hampton's Magazine_. If +Hampton's contract muzzled the Government officials, Mr. Hampton thought +so little of the so-called "proofs" that he did not print them. For, in +_Hampton's_ installment, with the eye-attracting title, "Peary Proofs +Positive," the real data upon which the Peary case rests were +eliminated. Why? In Mr. Peary's own book that material is again +suppressed. Why? For the same reason that the jury was muzzled. _The +material would not bear public scrutiny!_ + +The real difficulty is that, in the haste to floor rival claims, Mr. +Peary and all his biased helpers fixed as the crucial test of Polar +attainment an examination of field observations. Mr. Peary had his; he +had refused to let Whitney bring part of mine from the North; and, +therefore, he and his friends supposed that I was helpless, by assuming +this false position. But when Mr. Peary's own material was examined, it +was found that his position rested on a set of worthless +observations--calculations of altitudes of the sun so low that it is +questionable if the observation could have been made at all. So long as +three men, behind closed doors, could be made to say "Yes, Peary reached +the Pole," and so long as this verdict came with the authority of a +Geographic Society and the seeming endorsement of national prestige, the +false position could be impressed upon the pubic as a _bona-fide_ +verdict. But, with publicity, the whole railroading game would be +spoiled. These three men could be influenced. But there are a hundred +thousand other men in the world whose lives depend upon their knowledge +of just such observations as were here involved. They knew publicity +would bring the attention of these men to the fact that Mr. Peary's +polar claim rests upon the impossible observations of a sun at an +altitude less than 7° above the horizon. The three armchair geographers, +seldom out of reach of dusty book-shelves, passed upon these worthless +observations. Not one of one hundred thousand honest sextant experts +would credit such an observation as that upon which Mr. Peary's case +rests--not even in home regions, where for centuries tables for +corrections have been gathered. + +[29]A year later, at the Congressional investigation of the Naval +Committee in Washington, Mr. Peary and two of his jurors admitted that +in the much-heralded Peary proofs "there was no proof." Members of the +Geographic Society acknowledged their "examination" of Peary's +instruments was made in the Pennsylvania Station, when they opened Mr. +Peary's trunk and casually looked over its contents. Therefore, Mr. +Peary's claim for a second victory now rests upon his book. + +In forcing the controversy, the press and the public have come to the +conclusion that one or the other report must be discredited. This is an +incorrect point of view. Each case must be judged upon its own merits. +To prove my case, it is not necessary to disprove Peary's; nor, to prove +Peary's, should it have been necessary to try to disprove mine. + +Much has been said about my case resting in foreign hands. This came +about in a natural way. It was not intended to convey the idea that my +own countrymen were incompetent or dishonest. In the case of the +National Geographic Society they have irretrievably prostituted their +name; but the same is not true of other American authorities. + +When I came to Copenhagen, the Danish Geographic Society gave me a first +spontaneous hearing. The Copenhagen University honored me. It was, +therefore, but proper that the Danes should be the first to pass upon +the merits of my claim. While these arrangements were in progress, I met +Professor Thorp, the Rector of the University of Copenhagen, at the +American Legation. I did not know the purport of that meeting, nor of +his detailed, careful questions; but on the 6th of September appeared an +official statement in the press reports. In these it was stated that +the meeting had been arranged to satisfy the University authorities as +to whether the Pole had been reached. Among other things, Professor +Thorp said: + +"As there were certain questions of a special astronomical nature with +which I myself was not sufficiently acquainted, I called in our greatest +astronomical scientist, Professor Stromgren, who put an exhaustive +series of mathematical, technical and natural scientific questions to +Dr. Cook, based particularly on those of his contentions on which some +doubts had been cast. + +"Dr. Cook answered all to our full satisfaction. He showed no +nervousness or excitement at any time. I dare say, therefore, that there +is no justification for anybody to throw the slightest doubt on his +claim to have reached the Pole and the means by which he did it. +Professor Stromgren and I are entirely satisfied with the evidence." + +I have always maintained that the proof of an explorer's doings was not +to be found in a few disconnected figures, but in the continuity of his +final book which presents his case. To this end I prepared a report, +accompanied by the important part of the original field notes and a +complete set of reduced observations. These were submitted to the +University of Copenhagen in December of 1909. The verdict on this was +that in such material there was no absolute proof of the attainment of +the Pole. + +The Peary press agents were in Copenhagen, and sent this news out so as +to convey the idea that Copenhagen had denounced me; that, in their +opinion, the Pole had not been reached as claimed, and that I had hoaxed +the world for sordid gain; all of which was untrue. But the press +flaunted my name in big headlines as a faker. + +"In the Cook data there is no proof," they repeated as the verdict of +Copenhagen. + +A year later Mr. Peary and his jurors confessed unwillingly in Congress +that in the Peary data there was no proof. + +This was reported in the official Congressional pamphlets, but, so far +as I know, not a single newspaper displayed the news. The two cases, +therefore, so far as verdicts go, are parallel. + +Wearied of the whole problem of undesirable publicity; mentally and +physically exhausted; disgusted with the detestable and slanderous +campaign, which, for Mr. Peary, the press forced unremittingly, I +decided to go away for a year, to rest and recuperate. This could not be +done if I took the press into my confidence; and, therefore, I quietly +departed from New York, to be joined by my family later. Out of the +public eye, life, for me, assumed a new interest. In the meantime, the +public agitation was stilled. Time gave a better perspective to the +case; Mr. Peary got that for which his hand had reached. He was made a +Rear-Admiral, with a pension of $6,000 under retirement. + +By the time I had resolved my case, I received through my brother, +William L. Cook, of Brooklyn, and my London solicitor, various offers +from newspapers and magazines for any statement I desired to make. +Because I had gone away quietly and remained in seclusion, the +newspapers had inflamed the public with an abnormal curiosity in my +so-called mysterious disappearance. This fact imparted a great +sensational value to any news of my public reappearance or to any +statement which I might make. Eager to secure a "beat," newspapers were +offering my brother as high as one thousand dollars merely for my +address. The New York newspaper which had led the attack against me sent +an offer, through my London solicitor, of any figure which I might make +for my first exclusive statement to the public. One magazine offered me +ten thousand dollars for a series of articles. + +While in London I received a message from Mr. T. Everett Harry, of +_Hampton's Magazine_, concerning the publication of a series of articles +explaining my case. Mr. Harry came to London and talked over plans for +these. The opportunity of addressing the same public, through the same +medium, as Mr. Peary had in his serial story, strongly influenced me--in +fact, so strongly that, while I had a standing offer of ten thousand +dollars, I finally gave my articles to _Hampton's_ for little more than +four thousand dollars. + +In order that _Hampton's Magazine_ might benefit by the publicity +attaching to my first statement, and in response to the editor's +request, I came quietly to the United States with Mr. Harry, by way of +Canada, to consult with the editor before making final arrangements. Mr. +Harry and I had agreed upon the outline for the articles. They were to +be a series of heart-to-heart talks, embodying the psychological phases +of the Polar controversy and my own actions. In these I determined fully +to state my case, explain the ungracious controversy, and analyze the +impossibility of mathematically ascertaining the Pole or of proving such +a claim by figures. The articles that eventually appeared in +_Hampton's_, with the exception of unauthorized editorial changes and +excisions of vitally important matter concerning Mr. Peary, were +practically the same as planned in London. + +Coming down from Quebec, I stopped in Troy, New York, to await Mr. +Hampton, who was to come from New York. While there, a sub-editor, with +all a newspaper man's sensational instincts, came to see me. He +communicated, it seems, a brilliant scheme for a series of articles. As +he outlined it, I was to go secretly to New York, submit myself to +several employed alienists who should pronounce me insane, whereupon I +was to write several articles in which I should admit having arrived at +the conclusion that I reached the Pole while mentally unbalanced! This +admission was to be supported by the alienists' purchased report! This +plan, I was told, would "put me right" and make a great sensational +story! + +When I was told of this I felt staggered. Did people--could they--deem +me such a hoax that, in order to obtain an unwarranted sympathy, or to +make money, I should be willing to admit to such a shameful, mad, +atrocious and despicable lie? I said nothing when the suggestion was +made. At heart, I felt achingly hurt. I felt that this newspaper man, +not hesitating at deceiving the public in order to get a sensation, +regarded me as a scoundrel. I was learning, too, as I had throughout the +heart-bitter controversy, the duplicity of human nature. + +After a talk with Mr. Hampton, who finally arrived, and who, I am glad +to say, had no such suggestion himself to offer, I got to work on my +articles after the general plan spoken of in London. These were written +at the Palatine Hotel, in Newburgh. The articles finished, I returned to +London to settle certain business matter prior to my public return to +America by Christmas. + +Imagine my amazed indignation when, shortly before sailing, the cables +brought the untrue news, "Dr. Cook Confesses." Imagine my heart-aching +dismay when, on reaching the shores of my native country, I found the +magazine which was running the articles in which I hoped to explain +myself, had blazoned the sensation-provoking lie over its cover--"Dr. +Cook's Confession." + +I had made no confession. I had made the admission that I was uncertain +as to having reached the exact mathematical Pole. That same admission +Mr. Peary would have to make had he been pinned down. He did make this +admission, in fact, while his own articles, a year before, were being +prepared, in the _Hampton's_ office. + +In order to advertise itself, the magazine employed the trick of +construing a mere admission of uncertainty as to the exact pin-point +attainment of the Pole as a "confession." To the public I had apparently +authorized this. The misrepresentation hurt me, and for a time placed me +in an unhappy dilemma. + +Before the appearance of the January _Hampton's_, in which the first +instalment of my articles appeared, a series of press stories supposedly +based upon my forthcoming articles were prepared and sent out by the +sub-editor who had suggested the insanity plan. These were prepared +during the absence of Mr. Harry in Atlantic City. By picking garbled +extracts from my articles about the impossibility of a pin-point +determination of the Pole, and the crazy mirage-effects of the Arctic +world, these news-stories were construed to the effect that I admitted I +did not know whether I had been at the North Pole or whether I had not +been at the North Pole, and also that I admitted to a plea of insanity. +These stories were printed on the first pages of hundreds of newspaper +all over the country, under scareheads of "Dr. Cook Admits Fake!" and +"Dr. Cook Makes Plea of Insanity!" + +In these reports, written by the sub-editor, he gave himself credit for +the "discovery" of Dr. Cook and the securing of his articles for +_Hampton's_. This claim for the magazine "beat" was as dishonest as his +handling of the press matter for _Hampton's_. My dealings with the +magazine were entirely through Mr. Harry, whose frankness and +fair-dealing early disposed me to give my story to the publication he +represented. + +The widespread dissemination of the untrue and cruelly unfair +"confession" and "insanity-plea" stories dazed me. I felt impotent, +crushed. In my very effort to explain myself I was being irretrievably +hurt. I was being made a catspaw for magazine and newspaper sensation. + +But misrepresentations do not make history. The American people cannot +always be hoodwinked. The reading public soon realized that my story was +no more a confession than the "Peary Proof Positive" instalment in +Hampton's had been the embodiment of any real Polar proofs. + +Finding that it was impossible, in magazines and newspapers, to tell +the full truth; finding that what I did say was garbled and distorted, I +concluded to reserve the detailed facts for this book. There were truths +about Mr. Peary which, I suppose, no paper would have dared to print. I +have told them here. There were truths about myself which, because they +explain me, the papers, preferring to attack me, would not have printed. +I have told them here. + +I climbed Mt. McKinley, by my own efforts, without assistance; I reached +the Pole, save for my Eskimos, alone. I had spent no one's money, lost +no lives. I claimed my victory honestly; and as a man believing in +himself and his personal rights, at a time when I was nervously unstrung +and viciously attacked, I went away to rest, rather than deal in dirty +defamation, alone. At a time when the tables seemed turned, when the +wolves of the press were desirous of rending me, I came back to my +country--alone. + +I have now made my fight; I have been compelled to extreme measures of +truth-telling that are abhorrent to me. I have done this because, +otherwise, people would not understand the facts of the Polar +controversy or why I, reluctant, remained silent so long. I have done +this single-handedly. I have confidence in my people; more than that, I +have implicit and indomitable confidence in--Truth. + + + + +RETROSPECT + + +Returning from the North, in September, 1909, while being honored in +Copenhagen for my success in reaching the North Pole, there came, by +wireless from Labrador, messages from Robert E. Peary, claiming the +attainment exclusively as his own, and declaring that in my assertion I +was, in his vernacular, offering the world a "gold brick." + +On April 21, 1908, I had reached a spot which I ascertained, with as +scientific accuracy as possible, to be the top of the axis around which +the world spins--the North Pole. + +On April 6, 1909, a year later, Mr. Peary claimed to have reached the +same spot. + +To substantiate his charge of fraud, Peary declared that my Eskimo +companions had said I had been only two sleeps from land. Why, he +further asked, had I not taken reputable witnesses with me on such a +trip? + +I had taken, on my final dash, two expert Eskimos. Mr. Peary had four +Eskimos and a negro body servant. + +Before launching further charges, Mr. Peary delayed his ship, the +_Roosevelt_, at Battle Harbor, on the pretext of cleaning it, that he +might digest my New York _Herald_ story, compare it with his own, and +fabricate his broadside of abuse. There he was in constant communication +with the New York _Times_, General Thomas Hubbard--president of the +Peary Arctic Club and financial sponsor of the "trust"--and Herbert L. +Bridgman. The _Times_, eager to "beat" the _Herald_, was desirous of +descrediting me and launching Peary's as the _bona-fide_ North Pole +discovery story. General Hubbard, Mr. Bridgman, and the "trust" were +eager for a publicity and acclaim greater than that which might attach +to any honorable second victor. Dishonor and perjury, to secure first +honors, were not even to be weighed in the balance. + +When I arrived in New York, I was confronted by a series of technical +questions, designed to baffle me. These questions, I learned, had been +sent to the _Times_ by Mr. Peary with instructions that the _Times_ "get +after" me. + +I answered these questions. I had answered them in Europe. Mr. Peary, +when he arrived at Sydney, and afterward, refused to answer any +questions. He continued simply to attack me, to make insinuations +aspersing my honesty, playing the secret back-hand game of defamation +conducted by his friends of his Arctic Club. + +Why had I not, on my return from my Polar trip, told anyone of the +achievement, Mr. Peary asked in an interview, aiming to show that my +Polar attainment was an afterthought. + +On my return to Etah I had told Harry Whitney and Pritchard. They, in +turn, told Captain Bob Bartlett. Captain Bartlett, as well as the +Eskimos, in turn told Peary at Etah that I claimed to have reached the +Pole. At the very moment when this charge was made, Peary had in his +pocket Captain Adams' letter which gave the same information. Why did +Mr. Peary suppress this information, convicting himself of insinuating +an untruth from three different sources to challenge my claim. +Returning from the North with the negro, Henson, and Eskimos, Mr. Peary +himself had not told his own companions on the _Roosevelt_ of his own +success. Why was this? + +In a portentous statement Mr. Peary and his party declared my Eskimos +said I had not been more than two sleeps from land. + +I had instructed my companions not to tell Peary of my achievement. He +had stolen my supplies. I felt him unworthy of the confidence of a +brother explorer. I had encouraged the delusion of E-tuk-i-shook and +Ah-we-lah that almost daily mirages and low-lying clouds were signs of +land, so as to prevent the native panic and desertion on the circumpolar +sea. They had possibly told this to Peary in all honesty; but other +natives also told him that we had reached the "Big Nail." + +Why was the news to Mr. Peary's liking given, while that which he did +not like was ignored? + +Not long ago, Matthew Henson, interviewed in the south, was quoted as +saying that Peary did not get to the Pole. In another interview he said +that Peary, like a tenderfoot, rode in a fur-cushioned sledge until they +got to a place which was "far enough." I still prefer to believe Peary +rather than Henson. Peary's Eskimo companions of a former trip +positively deny Peary's claimed discovery of Crocker Land. I still +prefer to believe that Crocker Land does deserve a place on the map. +Peary's last Eskimo companions say that he did not reach the Pole. But I +prefer to credit his claim. Mr. Peary's spirit has never been that of +fairness to others when a claim impinges upon his own. He has always +adopted the tactics of the claim-jumper. + +In a like manner, and with similar intent, Mr. Peary had attacked many +explorers before me. To prevent his companions from profiting by their +own work, members of each expedition were forced to sign contracts that +barred press interviews, eliminated cameras, prohibited lecturing or +writing, or even trading for trophies. To insure Mr. Peary all the +honor, his men were made slaves to his cause. + +In a quarrel which resulted from these impossible conditions, Eivind +Astrup was assailed. Broken-hearted, he committed suicide. Captain Otto +Sverdrup was made to feel the sting of the same grasping spirit. General +A. W. Greely has been unjustly attacked. All of this detestable +selfishness culminated in the treatment of Captain Bob Bartlett. When +the Pole, to Peary, seemed within reach, and the glory of victory was +within grasp, the ever-faithful Bartlett was turned back and his place +was taken by a negro, that Peary might be, to quote his own words, "the +only white man at the Pole." + +When, on my return to New York, I found myself attacked by a man of this +caliber, I decided that the public, without any counter-defamation on my +part, would read him aright and see through the unscrupulous and +dishonest campaign. So I remained silent. + +Coming down to Portland from Sydney, where he had landed, Mr. Peary gave +out an interview insinuating that I had had no instruments with which to +take observations. "Would Dr. Cook," he asked, "if he had had +instruments, have left them in the hands of a stranger (Harry Whitney), +when upon these depended his fame or his dishonor?" + +On his return to this country, Mr. Whitney corroborated my statement of +leaving my instruments with him. Mr. Peary's own captain, who had +cross-questioned my Eskimos for Mr. Peary, later stated to two magazine +editors that my companions had described to him the instruments I had +had. Is it reasonable to suppose that Mr. Peary did not know of this? I +know that he knew. If he is an honest man, why did he stoop to this +dishonesty? Even if he believed me to be dishonest, dishonest methods +only placed him in the class of the one he attacked as dishonest. + +By using the same underhand methods, as when he got the New York _Times_ +to cross-question me for himself, Peary now got his friends of the +Geographic Society, who had boosted him, to call for "proofs." Such +proofs, it appeared, should always be presented before public honors +were accepted or the returns of a lecture tour considered. But Peary had +engaged in exploration for twenty years, and had always given lectures +at once, without ever offering proofs. I was asked to cancel lecture +engagements and furnish what Peary knew neither he nor anybody else +could furnish offhand. For the proof of an explorer's doings is his +final book, which requires months and years to prepare. + +With much blaring of trumpets, the Peary "proofs" were submitted to his +friends of the National Geographic Society. With but a casual +examination of copies of data, claimed at the time to be original field +notes, with no explanation of the wonderful instruments upon which it +had been earlier claimed Polar honors rested, an immediate and +favorable verdict was rendered. + +A huge picture was published, showing learned, bewhiskered gentlemen +examining the Peary "proofs," and reaching their verdict. Mr. Peary's +case for a rediscovery of the Pole was won--for the time. The public +were deceived into believing that positive proofs had been presented; +that the society, acting as a competent and neutral jury, was honest. +Later it was shown that its members were financially interested in Mr. +Peary's expedition, and still later it was admitted that the Peary +proofs contained no proof. All of this later development has had no +publicity. + +In the meantime, I was attacked for delay. My data was finally sent to +the University of Copenhagen. A verdict of "Unproven" was rendered. + +Thereupon, Mr. Peary and his friends at once shouted "Fraud!" The press +parrot-like re-echoed that shout. With this unfair insinuation there +came to me the biting sting of a burning electric shock as the wires +quivered all around the world. At the Congressional investigation, a +year later, the Peary data was shown to be useless as proof. It was a +verdict precisely like that of Copenhagen on mine, but the press did not +print it. Did the Peary interests have any control over the American +press or its sources of news distribution? + +After the call for "proof" came charges, from members of the Peary +cabal, that I was unable to take observations. Mr. Peary was so much +better equipped than I to do so! Moreover, he had had the able +scientific assistance of Bartlett and--the negro. + +When I was at the Pole the sun was 12° above the horizon. At the time +Peary claims he was there it was less than 7°. Difficult as it is to +take observations at 12°, because of refracted light, any accurate +observation at 7° is impossible. It is indeed, questionable if an +observation could be made at all at the time when Peary claims to have +been at the Pole. + +Finding that, despite all charges, the public believed in me, Mr. Peary, +through his coöperators, attempted to discredit my veracity. An +affidavit, which was bought, as I have evidence to prove, was made by +Barrill to the effect that I had not climbed Mt. McKinley. The getting +of this affidavit is placed at the door of Mr. Peary. + +Do honest men, with honest intentions, buy perjured documents? + +Do honest men, believing in themselves, besmirch their own honor by +deliberate lying? + +Dunkle and Loose came to me, offered to look over the observations in my +_Herald_ story, and--suddenly--to my amazement--offered a set of faked +observations, manufactured at the instigation of someone. I refused the +batch of faked papers, and turned the two nefarious conspirators out of +my hotel. + +A comparison of my Copenhagen report with the Dunkle perjured story, +later printed in the New York _Times_, proves I used not one of their +figures. Mr. R. J. McLouglin later proved that the hand which signed +"Dunkle" also signed "Loose" to that lying document. It is, therefore, +not only a perjury, but a forgery. + +Recently, Professor J. H. Gore, a member of the National Geographic +Society, and one of Peary's friends, acknowledged to Evelyn B. Baldwin +that he had in his possession the faked observations which were made by +Dunkle and Loose. + +How did he come by them? Why does he have them? What were the relations +between Dunkle and Loose, Peary's friends, the New York _Times_, and the +National Geographic Society? Do honest men, with honest intentions, +conspire with men of this sort, men who offered to sell me faked +figures--most likely to betray me had I been dishonest enough to buy +them--and who, failing, perjured themselves? + +Disgusted, I decided to let my enemies exhaust their abuse. I knew it +eventually would rebound. Determined to retire to rest, to resolve my +case in quietude and secrecy, I left America. My enemies gleefully +proclaimed this an admission of imposture. + +Yet, after they had turned almost every newspaper in the country against +me, having rested, having resolved my case, having secured damaging +proofs of the facts of the conspiracy against me, I returned to America. + +Realizing my error in so long remaining silent; realizing the power of a +sensation-seeking press, which has no respect for individuals or of +truth, I determined, painful as would be the task, to tell the +unpleasant, distasteful truth about the man who tried to besmirch my +name. This may seem unkind. But I was kind too long. Truth is often +unpleasant, but it is less malicious than the sort of lies hurled at me. + +After I had left America, the newspapers, desirous of sensation, had +played into the hands of those who, with seeming triumph, assailed me. +But meanwhile, however, I was taking advantage of the opportunity to +rest and gain an accurate perspective of the situation. I thought out my +case, considered it pro and con, puzzled out the reasons for, and the +source of, the newspaper clamor against me. Through friends in America +who worked quietly and effectively, I secured evidence, which is +embodied in affidavits, which laid bare the methods employed to +discredit me in the Mt. McKinley affair. I learned of the methods used, +and just what charges were made, to discredit my Polar claim. Damaging +admissions were secured concerning Mr. Peary's fabricated attacks from +the mouths of Mr. Peary's own associates. Knowing these facts, at the +proper time, I returned to my native country to confront my enemies. I +have proceeded in detail to state my case and reveal the hitherto +unknown inside facts of the entire Polar controversy. I have stated +certain facts before the public. Neither Mr. Peary nor his friends have +replied. One point in the Polar controversy has never reached the +public. Both Mr. Peary and many of his friends asserted that I left the +country just in time to escape criminal prosecution. They said the +charge was to be that I had obtained money on a false pretence by +accepting fees for lecturing on my discovery. I returned to America. I +have been lecturing for fees on my discovery since; I have not yet been +prosecuted. + +Were Mr. Peary not the sort of man who would stoop to dishonor, to +discredit a rival in order to gain an unfair advantage for himself, were +he not guilty of the gross injustice I have stated, he would have had +all the opportunity in the world for effectively coming back at me. But +he has remained silent. Why? + +I have, as I have said, absolute confidence in the good sense, spirit of +fair-play, and ability of reasoning judgment of my people. My case +rests, not with any body of armchair explorers or kitchen geographers, +but with Arctic travelers who can see beyond the mist of selfish +interests, and with my fellow-countrymen, who breathe normal air and +view without bias the large open fields of honest human endeavor. + +In this book I have stated my case, presented my proofs. As to the +relative merits of my claim, and Mr. Peary's, place the two records side +by side. Compare them. I shall be satisfied with your decision. + + FREDERICK A. COOK. + +[Illustration] + + + + +[Illustration] + + + * * * * * + + + + +FOOTNOTES: + + +[1] Accused of being the most colossal liar of history, I sometimes feel +that more lies have been told about me than about anyone ever born. I +have been guilty of many mistakes. Most men really true to themselves +admit that. My claim to the North Pole may always be questioned. Yet, +when I regard the lies great and small attached to me, I am filled +almost with indifference. + +As a popular illustration of the sort of yarns that were told, let me +refer to the foolish fake of the gum drops. Someone started the story +that I expected to reach the Pole by bribing the Eskimos with gum +drops--perhaps the idea was that I was to lure them on from point to +point with regularly issued rations of these confections. + +Wherever I went on my lecture tour after my return to the United States, +much to my irritation I saw "Cook" gum drops conspicuously displayed in +confectionery store windows. Hundreds of pounds of gum drops were sent +to my hotel with the compliments of the manufacturers. On all sides I +heard the gum-drop story, and in almost every paper read the reiterated +tale of leading the Eskimos to the Pole by dangling a gum drop on a +string before them. I never denied this, as I never denied any of the +fakes printed about me. The fact is, that I never heard the gum-drop +yarn until I came to New York. We took no gum drops with us on our Polar +trip, and, to my knowledge, no Eskimo ate a gum drop while with me. + + +[2] Among the many things which the public has been misled into +believing is that Mr. Bradley and I together connived the trip for the +purpose of essaying this quest of the Pole. The fact is, not until I +reached Annoatok, and saw that conditions were favorable for a long +sledge journey, did I finally determine to make a Poleward trip; not +until then did I tell my decision definitely to Mr. Bradley. + +One of the big mistakes which has been pounded into the public mind is +that the proposed Polar exploit was expensively financed. It did cost a +great deal to finance the planned hunting trip. Mr. Bradley's expenses +aggregated, perhaps, $50,000, but my journey Northward, which was but an +extension of this yachting cruise, cost comparatively little. + + +[3] The killing of Astrup.--The head of Melville Bay was explored by +Eivind Astrup while a member of the Peary expedition of 1894-1895. +Astrup had been a member of the first expedition, serving without pay, +during 1891 and 1892 and proving himself a loyal supporter and helper of +Mr. Peary, when he crossed the inland ice in 1892. As a result of eating +pemmican twenty years old, in 1895, Astrup was disabled by poisoning, +due to Peary's carelessness in furnishing poisoned food. Recovering from +this illness, he selected a trustworthy Eskimo companion, went south, +and under almost inconceivable difficulties, explored and mapped the ice +walls, with their glaciers and mountains, and the off-lying islands of +Melville Bay. This proved a creditable piece of work of genuine +discovery. Returning, he prepared his data and published it, thus +bringing credit and honor on an expedition which was in other respects a +failure. + +Astrup's publication of this work aroused Peary's envy. Publicly, Peary +denounced Astrup. Astrup, being young and sensitive, brooded over this +injustice and ingratitude until he had almost lost his reason. The abuse +was of the same nature as that heaped on others, the same as that +finally hurled at me in the wireless "Gold Brick" slurs. For days and +weeks, Astrup talked of nothing but the infamy of Peary's attack on +himself and the contemptible charge of desertion which Peary made +against Astrup's companions. Then he suddenly left my home, returned to +Norway, and we next heard of his suicide. Here is one life directly +chargeable to Peary's narrow and intolerant brutality. Directly this was +not murder with a knife--but it was as heinous--for a young and noble +life was cut short by the cowardly dictates of jealous egotism. + + +[4] The Death of John M. Verhoeff.--As we passed Robertson Bay, there +came up memories of the tragedy of Verhoeff. This young man was a member +of Peary's first expedition, in 1891. He had paid $2,000 toward the fund +of the expedition. Verhoeff was young and enthusiastic. He gave his +time, his money, and he risked his life for Peary. He was treated with +about the same consideration as that accorded the Eskimo dogs. When I +last saw him in camp, he was in tears, telling of Peary's injustice. +Mrs. Peary--I advert to this with all possible reluctance--had done much +to make his life bitter, and over this he talked for days. Finally he +said: "I will never go home in the same ship with that man and that +woman." It was the last sentence he uttered in my hearing. He did not go +home in that ship. Instead, he wandered off over the glacier, where he +left his body in the blue depths of a crevasse. + + +[5] Before he sailed on his last Northern expedition Mr. Peary, learning +that I had preceded him, took the initial step in his campaign to +discredit me by issuing a statement to the effect that I was bent upon +the unfair and dishonest purpose of enlisting in my aid Eskimos which he +had the exclusive right to command. Mr. Peary's attitude that the +Eskimos, because he had given them guns, powder and needles, belong to +him, is as absurd as his pretension to the sole ownership of the North +Pole. Although Mr. Peary had spent about a quarter of a century essaying +the task by means of luxurious expeditions, he had done little more than +other explorers and did not, in my opinion, either secure an option on +the Pole or upon the services of the natives. In giving guns, etc., to +the natives he also did no more than other explorers, and the Danes for +many years, have done. Nor was this with him a magnanimous matter of +gracious bounty, for, in prodigal return for all he gave them, Mr. Peary +on every expedition secured a fortune in furs and ivory. The Eskimos +belong to no one. For ages they have worked out their rigorous existence +without the aid of white men, and Mr. Peary's pretension becomes not +only absurd but grotesque when one realizes that following the arrival +of ships with white crews, the natives have fallen easy victims of +loathsome epidemics, mostly of a specific nature, for which the trivial +gifts of any explorer would ill repay them. + + +[6] One of the charges which Mr. Peary circulated before he returned +North in 1908, was, that I violated a rule of Polar ethics by not +applying for a license to seek the Pole, nor giving notice of my +proposed trip. There is no such rule in Polar ethics. The following +letter, however, to his press agent, Mr. Herbert Bridgman, dated Etah, +August 26, 1907, answers the charge: + +"My dear Bridgman: I have hit upon a new route to the North Pole and +will stay to try it. By way of Buchanan Bay and Ellesmere Land and +northward through Nansen Strait over the Polar sea seems to me to be a +very good route. There will be game to the 82°, and here are natives and +dogs for the task. So here is for the Pole. Mr. Bradley will tell you +the rest. Kind regards to all--F. A. Cook." + +"It will be remembered," continued Mr. Bridgman, in his press reports, +"that Dr. Cook, accompanied by John R. Bradley, Captain Moses Bartlett, +and a number of Eskimos, left North Sidney, N. S., early last July on +the American Auxiliary Schooner Yacht _John R. Bradley_, which landed +the party at Smith Sound. Mr. Bradley returned to North Sydney on the +yacht on October 1. _The expedition is provisioned for two years and +fully equipped with dogs and sledges for the trip. The party is +wintering thirty miles further north than Peary did two years ago._" + +And yet Bridgman, in line with the indefatigable pro-Peary boosters, +later tried to lead the public to believe that I had nothing but gum +drops with which to undertake a trip to the Pole. This same Bridgman +also printed in what Brooklyn people call the "Standard Liar" the fake +about my using, as my own, photographs said to belong to the newspaper +cub, Herbert Berri. + +For fifteen years Bridgman used my photographs and my material for his +lectures on the Arctic and Antarctic, generally without giving credit. +Evidently, my work and my results were good enough for him to borrow as +Peary did. So long as my usefulness served the Bridgman-Peary interests, +there was no question of my credibility, but when my success interfered +with the monopoly of the fruits of Polar attainment, then I was to be +striped with dark lines of dishonor. + +The most amusing and also the most significant incident of the +Bridgman-Peary humbug was the faked wireless message which Bridgman +printed for Peary in his paper. Peary claims he reached the Pole on +April 6, 1909. In the Standard Union, Brooklyn, of April 14, 1909 (eight +days after the alleged discovery), Peary's friend H. L. Bridgman, one of +the owners, printed the following: + +"PEARY DUE NORTH POLE TWELVE M., THURSDAY" + +(APRIL 15, 1909). + +Is Mr. Bridgman a psychic medium? How, with Peary thousands of miles +away, hundreds of miles from the most northerly wireless station, did he +sense the amazing feat? Were he and Peary in telepathic communication? +Or, rather, does this not seem to point to an agreement entered into +before the departure of Peary, about a year before the attempt was made, +to announce on a certain day the "discovery" of the Pole? + +From other sources we learn that the timing of the arrival of the ship +at Cape Sheridan seems to have been made good, but in an apparent effort +on the part of Peary to keep faith with Bridgman on April 15, we find +him in trouble. If Peary arranged his "discovery" for this agreed date, +he would have had to take nine days for his return trip from the Pole. +This would increase his speed limit 50 per cent., and since he is +regarded with suspicion on his speed limits, to make his "Pole +Discovery" story fit in between the known time when he left Bartlett and +the time when he got back to the ship, he was compelled to break faith +with Bridgman and went back nine days on his calendar, placing the date +of Pole reaching at April 6. + + +[7] _Game List._--The following animals were captured from August 15, +1907, to May 15, 1909: + +Two thousand four hundred and twenty-two birds, 311 Arctic hares, 320 +blue and white foxes, 32 Greenland reindeer, 4 white reindeer, 22 polar +bears, 52 seals, 73 walrus, 21 narwhals, 3 white whales, and 206 musk +oxen. + + +[8] Auroras in the Arctic are best seen in more southern latitudes. The +display here described was the brightest observed on this trip. Not more +than three or four others were noted during the following year, but in +previous trips I have witnessed some very wonderful color and motion +displays. + +The best illustrations of this remarkable color of aurora and night come +from the brush of Mr. Frank Wilbert Stokes. These were reproduced in the +_Century Magazine_ of February, 1903. After their appearance, Mr. Peary +accorded to Mr. Stokes (a member of his expedition) the same sort of +treatment as he had accorded Astrup--the same as that shown to others. +In a letter to the late Richard Watson Gilder, editor of the _Century_, +he denounced and did his utmost to discredit Mr. Stokes by insisting +that no such remarkable colors are displayed by the aurora borealis. Mr. +Gilder replied, in defense of Mr. Stokes, by quoting from Peary's own +book, "Northward," Vol. II, pages 194, 195, 198 and 199, descriptions of +even more remarkable color effects. + + +[9] The so-called "Jesup" sled, which Mr. Peary used on his last Polar +trip, is a copy of the Eskimo sledge, a lumbering, unwieldy thing +weighing over one hundred pounds and which bears the same relation to a +refined bent-hickory vehicle that a lumber cart does to an express +wagon. In this "Jesup" sledge there is a dead weight of over fifty +pounds of useless wood. The needless weight thus carried can, in a +better sledge, be replaced by fifty pounds of food. This fifty pounds +will feed one man over the entire route to the Pole. Mr. Peary claims +that the Pole is not reachable without this sled, but Borup, in his +book, reports that most of the sledges were broken at the first trial. + +Since an explorer's success is dependent upon his ability to transport +food it behooves him to eliminate useless weight. Therefore, the solid +runner sled is as much out of place as a solid wood wheel would be in an +automobile. + + +[10] A great deal of careful search and study was prosecuted about +Svartevoeg, for here Peary claims to have left a cache, the alleged +placing of which he has used as a pretext for attempting to take from +the map the name of Svartevoeg, given by Sverdrup, when he discovered +it, to the northern part of Heiberg Land. Peary, coming later, put on +his map the name Cape Thomas Hubbard, for one who had put easy money in +his hands. But no such cache was found, and I doubt very much if Peary +ever reached this point, except through a field-glass at very long +range. + + +[11] On their return to Etah, and after I had left for Upernavik, my +Eskimos, questioned by Mr. Peary, who was anxious to secure anything +that might serve towards discrediting me, answered innocently that they +had been only a few sleeps from land. This unwilling and naive admission +was published in a pretentious statement, the purpose of which was to +cast doubt on my claim. Other answers of my Eskimos, to the effect that +I had instruments and had made constant observations, it is curious to +note, were suppressed by Mr. Peary and his party on their return. Every +insinuation was made to the effect that I had had no instruments, had +consequently taken no observations, and had, therefore, no means of +ascertaining the Pole even had I wished to do so. + + +[12] My enemies credit me with a journey of two thousand miles, which is +double Peary's greatest distance; but then, to deny my Polar attainment, +they keep me sitting here, on a sterile waste of ice, for three months. +Would any man sit down there and shiver in idleness, when the reachable +glory of Polar victory was on one side and the get-at-able gastronomic +joy of game land on the other? Only a crazy man would do that, and we +were too busy to lose our mental balance at that time. When leg-force +controls human destiny, and a half-filled stomach clears the brain for +action, for a long time, at least, insanity is very remote. Furthermore, +the Eskimo boys said we traveled on the ice-pack for seven moons, and +that we reached a place where the sun does not dip at night; where the +day and night shadows were of equal length. Has Mr. Peary reached that +point? If so, neither he nor his Eskimos have noted it. + + +[13] After my return to Copenhagen I was widely quoted as declaring that +I had discovered and traversed 30,000 square miles of new land. What I +did report was that in my journey I had passed through an area wherein +it was possible to declare 30,000 square miles--a terrestrial unknown of +water and ice--cleared from the blank of our charts. I have been quoted +as describing this land as "a paradise for hunters" and criticised on +the ground that animal life does not exist so far north. Whether animal +life existed there, I do not know, for the impetus of my quest left no +time to investigate. I passed the last game at Heiberg Land. + +In my diary of the day's doings, only the results of observations were +written down. The detail calculations were made on loose sheets of paper +and in other note books--wherein was recorded all instrumental data. +Later all my observations were reduced in the form in which they were to +be finally presented. Therefore, these field papers with their +miscellaneous notes had served their purpose, as had the instruments; +and for this reason most of the material was left with Harry Whitney. A +few of the important calculations were kept more as a curiosity. These +will be presented as we go along. Those left I thought might later be +useful for a re-examination of the results; but it never occurred to me +that Whitney would be forced to bury the material, as he was by Peary. I +do not regard those buried notes as being proof or as being particularly +valuable, except as proving Peary to be one of the most ungracious and +selfish characters in history. + +In the subsequent excitement, because Peary cried fraud on the very +papers which he had buried for me, an agitated group of American +armchair explorers came to the conclusion against the dictates of +history that the proof of the Polar quest was to be found in the +re-examination of the figures of the observations for position. + +Part of mine were buried. Peary had his. Thus handicapped, because +blocks of my field calculations were absent, with the instruments and +chronometer corrections, I rested my case at Copenhagen on a report, the +original notes giving the brief tabulations of the day's doings, and the +complete set of reduced observations. + +My friends have criticised me for not sending the data given below and +similar observations to Copenhagen to prove my claim, but I did not deem +it worth while to present more, taking the ground that if in this there +was not sufficient material to explain the movement step by step of the +Polar quest, then no academic examination could be of any value. This +viewpoint, as I see it at present, was a mistake. I am now presenting +every scrap of paper and every isolated fact, not as proof but as part +of the record of the expedition, with due after-thought, and the better +perspective afforded by time. Every explorer does this. Upon such a +record history has always given its verdict of the value of an +explorer's work. It will do the same in estimating the relative merits +of the Polar quest. + +=Observation as figured out in original field paper for March 30, 1908=: +Longitude 95.36. Bar. 30.10 had risen from 29.50 in 2 hours. Temp. -34°. +Wind 2. Mag. N. E. Clouds Mist W.-Water bands E. + + ---- + 95½ Noon, 0 18--46--10 + 4 ---- 18--48--20 + +--------- 0 +------------- + 60 | 382 2 | 37--34--30 + +--------- +------------- + 6-22 18--47--15 + I. E. +2 + +------------- + 2 | 18--49--15 + +------------- + 58 9--24--38 + 6½ h. --16-- 2 + ---------- -------------- + 29 9-- 8--36 + 348 R. & P. -- 9 + +----------- -------------- + 60 | 377 8--59--36 + +----------- 90 + 6--17 -------------- + 3--43--15 81--00--24 + ------------- 3--49--32 + 3--49--32 -------------- + 84--49--56 + + Shadows 39 ft. (of tent pole 6 ft. above snow). + (Directions Magnetic.) + +Because of the impossibility of making correct allowances for +refraction, I have made a rough allowance of -9´ for refraction and +parallax in all my observations. + +The tent pole was a hickory floor slat of one of the sledges. It was 6 +ft. 6 ins. high, 2 ins. wide, and 1/2 in. thick. This stick was marked +in feet and inches, to be used as a measuring stick. It also served as a +paddle and steering oar for the boat. + +By pressing this tent pole 6 ins. into the snow, it served as a 6 ft. +pole to measure the shadows. These measurements were recorded on the +observation blanks. Absolute accuracy for the measurements is not +claimed, because of the difficulty of determining the line of +demarcation in long, indistinct shadows; but future efforts will show +that my shadow measurements are an important check on all sun +observations by which latitude and longitude are determined. + + +[14] Peary claims to have seen life east of this position. This is +perfectly possible, for Arctic explorers have often noted when game +trails were abundant one year, none were seen the next. In these tracks +of foxes and bears, as noted by Baldwin, are positive proofs of the +position of Bradley Land--for such animals work only from a land base. + + +[15] Observation on April 8, from original field-papers. April 8, 1908, +Longitude 94°-2´. Bar. 29.80, rising. Temp. -31°. Wind 2, Mag. N. E. +Clouds St. 3. + + --- + 0 21°--59´--30´´ + 0 21 --08 --20 + 94° --- +---------------- + 4´ 2 | 43 -- 7 --50 + +------ +---------------- + 60 | 376´ 21 --33 --55 + +------ ---------------- + 6-16 I. E. +2 + +---------------- + 56´´ 2 | 21 --35 --50 + × 6¼ +---------------- + -------- 10 --47 --55 + 14 --9 + 336 ---------------- + +-------- 10 --38 --55 + 60 | 350 90-- + +-------- ---------------- + 5--50 79 --21 -- 5 + 7-- 9--33 7 --15 --23 + ----------- ---------------- + 7--15--23 86 --36 --28 + + Shadows 32 ft. (of pole 6 + ft. above snow). + + +[16] After trying to explain this impression fifteen months later to a +Swiss professor, who spoke little English, he quoted me as saying that +the sun at night about the Pole was much lower than at noon. No such +ridiculous remark was ever made. In reality the eye did not detect any +difference in the distance between the sun and the horizon through the +next twenty-four hours. There was no visible rise or set, the night dip +of the nocturnal swing of the sun was entirely eliminated. We had, +however, several ways of checking this important phenomena, which will +be introduced later. + + +[17] _The Fall of Body Temperature_--The temperature of the body was +frequently taken. Owing to the breathing of very cold air, the +thermometer placed in the mouth gave unreliable results, but by placing +the bulb in the armpits, when in the sleeping bag, fairly accurate +records were kept. These proved that extreme cold had little influence +on bodily heat; but when long-continued overwork was combined with +insufficient food, the temperature gradually came down. On the route to +the Pole the bodily temperature ranged from 97° 5´ to 98° 4´. In +returning, the subnormal temperature fell still lower. When the worry of +being carried adrift and the danger of never being able to return became +evident, then the mental anguish, combined as it was with prolonged +overwork, continued thirst and food insufficiency, was strikingly noted +by our clinical thermometer. During the last few weeks, before reaching +land at Greenland in 1909, the subnormal temperature sank to the +remarkable minimum of 96° 2´ F. The Eskimos usually remained about half +a degree warmer. The respiration and heart action was at this time fast +and irregular. + +In the summer period of famine about Jones Sound the temperature was +normal. At that time we had an abundance of water and an interesting +occupation in quest of game, but we often felt the cold more severely +than in the coldest season of winter. + + +[18] _The Tragedies of Cape Sabine._--Cape Sabine has been the scene of +one of the saddest Arctic tragedies--the death by starvation of most of +the members of the Greely Expedition. Several modern travelers, +including Mr. Peary, have, in passing here, taken occasion to criticise +adversely the management of this expedition. In his last series of +articles in _Hampton's Magazine_, Peary has again attempted to throw +discredit on General Greely. It is easy, after a lapse of forty years, +to show the mistakes of our predecessors, and thereby attempt to +belittle another's effort; but is it right? I have been at Cape Sabine +in a half-starved condition, as General Greely was. I have watched the +black seas of storm thunder the ice and rock walls, as he did; and I +have looked longingly over the impassable stretches of death-dealing +waters to a land of food and plenty, as he did. I did it, possessing the +accumulated knowledge of the thirty years which have since passed, and I +nearly succumbed in precisely the same manner as did the unfortunate +victims of that expedition. The scientific results of the Lady Franklin +Bay Expedition were so carefully and so thoroughly gathered that no +expedition to the Arctic since has given value of equal importance. +Greely's published record is an absolute proof of his ability as a +leader and a vindication of the unfair insinuations of later rivals. + +In passing along this same coast, E-tuk-i-shook called my attention to +several graves, some of which we opened. In other places we saw human +bones which had been left unburied. They were scattered, and had been +picked by the ravens, the foxes and the wolves. With a good deal of +sorrow and reserve I then learned one of the darkest imprinted pages of +Arctic history. When the steamer _Erie_ returned, in 1901, a large +number of Eskimos were left with Mr. Peary near Cape Sabine. They soon +after developed a disease which Mr. Peary's ship brought to them. There +was no medicine and no doctor to save the dying victims. Dr. T. F. +Dedrick, who had served Mr. Peary faithfully, was dismissed without the +payment of his salary, because of a personal grudge, but Dedrick refused +to go home and leave the expedition without medical help. He remained at +Etah, living with the Eskimos in underground holes, as wild men do, +sacrificing comfort and home interests for no other purpose except to +maintain a clean record of helpfulness. As the winter and the night +advanced, Dr. Dedrick got news that the Eskimos were sick and required +medical assistance. He crossed the desperate reaches of Smith Sound at +night, and offered Mr. Peary medical assistance to save the dying +natives. Peary refused to allow Dedrick to attempt to cure the +afflicted, crying people. Dedrick had been without civilized food for +months, and was not well himself after the terrible journey over the +storm-swept seas of ice. Before returning, he asked for some coffee, a +little sugar and a few biscuits. These Mr. Peary refused him. Dr. +Dedrick returned. The natives, in fever and pain, died. Theirs are the +bones scattered by the wild beasts. Who is responsible for these deaths? + +"_Peary-tiglipo-savigaxua_" (Peary has stolen the iron stone), was now +repeated with bitterness by the Eskimos. In 1897 it occurred to Mr. +Peary that the museums would be interested in the Eskimos, and also in +the so-called "Star Stone," owned by the Eskimos. It had been passed +down from generation to generation as a tribal property; from it the +natives, from the Stone Age, had chipped metal for weapons. This +"meteorite" was, without Eskimo consent, put by Mr. Peary on his ship; +without their consent, also, were put a group of men and women and +children on the ship. All were taken to New York for museum purposes. In +New York the precious meteorite was sold, but the profits were not +divided with the rightful owners. The men, women and children +(merchandise of similar value) were placed in a cellar, awaiting a +marketplace. Before the selling time arrived, all but one died of +diseases directly arising out of inhuman carelessness, due to the +dictates of commercialism. Who is responsible for the death of this +group of innocent wild folk? + + +[19] These supplies had, fortunately, been left in the care of Mr. +Whitney. In the months that followed, Murphy several times threatened to +take these things, but Whitney's sense of justice was such that no +further pilfering was allowed. + +The unbrotherly tactics which Mr. Peary had shown to Sverdrup and other +explorers were here copied by his representative. Captain Bernier was +bound for the American coast, to explore and claim for Canada the land +to the west. He desired a few native helpers. There were at Etah +descendants of Eskimo emigrants from the very land which Bernier aimed +to explore. These men were anxious to return to their fathers' land, and +would have made splendid guides for Bernier. Murphy volunteered to ask +the Eskimos if they would go. He went ashore, pretending that he would +try to secure guides, but, in reality, he never asked a single Eskimo to +join Bernier. Returning, he said that no one would go. Later he boasted +to Whitney and Prichard of the intelligent way in which he had deceived +Captain Bernier. Was this under Mr. Peary's instructions? + + +[20] I now learned, also, that the Eskimos had told their tribesmen of +their arrival at the mysterious "Big Nail," which, of course, meant less +to them than the hardship and unique methods of hunting. + +Among themselves the Eskimos have an intimate way of conveying things, a +method of expression and meaning which an outsider never grasps. At +most, white men can understand only a selected and more simple language +with which the Eskimos convey their thoughts. This partly accounts for +the unreliability of any testimony which a white man extracts from them. +There is also to be considered an innate desire on the part of these +simple people to answer any question in a manner which they think will +please. In all Indian races this desire to please is notoriously +stronger than a sense of truth. The fact that my Eskimos, when later +questioned as to my whereabouts, are reported to have answered that I +had not gone far out of sight of land, was due partly to my instructions +and partly to this inevitable wish to answer in a pleasing way. + +While they spoke among themselves of having reached the "Big Nail," they +also said--what they later repeated to Mr. Peary--that they had passed +few days beyond the sight of land, a delusion caused by mirages, in +which, to prevent any panic, I had with good intentions encouraged an +artificial belief in a nearness to land. + +But we were for weeks enshrouded in dense fogs, where nothing could be +seen. The natives everywhere had heard of this, and inquired about it. +Why has Mr. Peary suppressed this important information? We traveled and +camped on the pack for "seven moons." Why was this omitted? We reached a +place where the sun did not dip at night; where there was not enough +difference in the height of the day and night sun to give the Eskimo his +usual sense of direction. Why was this fact ignored? + + +[21] In appreciation of this kind helpfulness, the Danes later sent a +special ship loaded with presents, which were left for distribution +among the good-natured Eskimos who had helped Ericksen. Mr. Peary came +along after the Danes had turned their backs, and picked from the Danish +presents such things as appealed to his fancy, thus depriving the +Eskimos of the merited return for their kindness. What right had Mr. +Peary to take these things? The Danes, who have since placed a mission +station here, in continuation of their policy to guard and protect the +Eskimos, are awaiting an answer to this question to-day. + + +[22] When Captain Adams arrived off the haunts of the northernmost +Eskimos, he sent ashore a letter to be passed along to Mr. Peary, as he +was expected to return south during that summer. In his letter Captain +Adams told of my attainment of the Pole. The letter got into Mr. Peary's +hands before he returned to Labrador. With this letter in his pocket, +Mr. Peary gave as his principal reason for doubting my success that +nobody else had been told that I had reached the Pole. I told Whitney, I +had told Pritchard--thus Peary's charge was proven false later. But why +did he suppress the information which Captain Adams' letter contained? +With this letter in his pocket, why did Mr. Peary say that no one had +been told? + + +[23] Captain Robert A. Bartlett, of the Peary ship _Roosevelt_, has +figured much in this controversy. Most of his reported statements, I am +inclined to believe, are distorted. But he has allowed the words +attributed to him to stand; therefore, the harm done is just as great as +if the charges were true. He allowed Henry Rood, in _The Saturday +Evening Post_, to say that my expedition was possible only through the +advice of Bartlett. Every statement which Rood made, as Bartlett knows, +is a lie. He has allowed this to stand, and he thereby stands convicted +as party to a faked article written with the express purpose of +inflicting an injury. + +Bartlett cross-questioned my Eskimos about instruments. By showing them +a sextant and other apparatus he learned that I not only had a full set, +but he also learned how I used them. Peary, although having Bartlett's +report on this, insinuated that I had no instruments, and that I made no +observations. Bartlett knew this to be a lie, but he remained silent. He +is therefore a party to a Peary lie. + +In the early press reports Bartlett is credited with saying that "Cook +had no instruments." A year later, after Bartlett returned from another +trip north, faked pictures and faked news items were printed with the +Bartlett interviews and reports. There was no protest, and at the same +time Bartlett said that books, instruments, and things belonging to me +had been destroyed. In the following year Bartlett announced that he was +"going after Cook's instruments." Has the press lied, or has Bartlett +lied? Next to Henson, Mr. Peary's colored servant, Captain Bartlett is +Peary's star witness. + +George Borup, in "A Tenderfoot With Peary," after repeating in his book +many pro-Peary lies, tried to prove his assertion by an alleged study of +my sledge (P. 300): "Except for its being shortened, the sledge was the +same as when it had left Annoatok. It weighed perhaps thirty pounds, and +was very flimsy." + +This is a deliberate lie, for it was only a half-sled, reassembled and +repaired by old bits of driftwood. After this first lie he says, in the +same paragraph: "Yet it had only two cracks in it." The upstanders had +been cracked in a dozen places, the runners were broken, and every part +was cracked. + +Borup shows by his orthography of Eskimo words that he knows almost +nothing of the Eskimo language. Therefore he may be dismissed as +incompetent where Eskimo reports are to be interpreted. He is committed +to the Peary interests, which also eliminates him from the jury. But in +his report of my sled he has stooped to lies which forever deprive him +of being credited with any honest opinion on the Polar controversy. + + +[24] Professor Armbruster and Dr. Schwartz, of St. Louis, at a time when +few papers had the courage to print articles in my defence, appealed to +W. R. Reedy, of the _Mirror_, for space to uncover the unfair methods of +the Pro-Peary conspiracy. This space was liberally granted, and the +whole controversy was scientifically analyzed by the _Mirror_ in an +unbiased manner. Here is shown an important phase of the Peary charges, +from the _Mirror_, April 21, 1910. As it clearly reveals the facts, I +present part of it as follows: + +The point made by Dr. Schwartz, that there is a contradiction between +Peary's statements of September 28 and October 13, is well taken. The +statement of October 13 is a point-blank contradiction of the previous +one. Dr. Schwartz notes that when Peary made, on September 28, what +Peary called his strongest indictment of Dr. Cook, Peary must have had +with him at Bar Harbor the chart with the trail of Cook's route, and +infers that, as the later charge was by far the stronger indictment of +the two, there must be some other explanation of the contradiction. + +Analysis of this contradiction develops one of the most serious +propositions of the whole Polar controversy. Mr. Peary might now say +that he was holding his strongest point in reserve, but such explanation +would not be sufficient, for he stated that the indictment of September +28 is "the strongest that has been advanced in Arctic exploration ever +since the great expedition was sent there," and no child is so simple as +to believe that the indictment of September 28 is at all comparable in +magnitude to the one of October 13. Upon analysis, we find that there is +indeed another explanation, and only one, and that is, that _when the +indictment of September 28 was made, the one of October 13 had not been +conceived or concocted_, and it will show that Peary, Bartlett, +McMillan, Borup and Henson, _all_ who signed the statement of October +13, perpetrated a gross falsehood and imposition upon the public. All +are caught in the one net. + +If this coterie had received from the Eskimos such information as is +claimed by them in their statement of October 13, then they must have +received it from the Eskimos _before Peary and his party left Etah on +their return to America_. If they had the information when they left the +Eskimos at Etah, on their return to America, then they had it when they +arrived at Indian Harbor, and before their statement of September 28 was +made. + +In their statement of October 13, 1909, Peary, Bartlett, McMillan, Borup +and Henson state, and sign their names to the statement made to the +world and copyrighted, that they had a map on which E-tuk-i-shook and +Ah-we-lah, Dr. Cook's two Eskimos, had traced for them the route taken +by Dr. Cook, and that this was also supported by the verbal statements +of the two Eskimos, _that Dr. Cook had reached the northern point of +Heiberg Land, or Cape Thomas Hubbard; that he had gone two sleeps north +of it, had then turned to the west or southwest, and returned to the +northern headland of Heiberg Land, but on the west or northwest side, +and had sent back one of the Eskimos to the cache left on the headland, +but on the east side of the point, and remained at this new place on the +west side of the point for four or five sleeps_. Then, all the time that +Peary was challenging and impugning that Dr. Cook had reached even the +northern point of Heiberg Land, according to their own statement of +October 13, _they had in their pockets the map and information from the +Eskimos that Dr. Cook had not only reached the northern point of Heiberg +Land, but traveled above it and turned around the point_. In so +challenging that Dr. Cook had reached even the northern point of said +land, and thereby discrediting Dr. Cook with all the force and influence +at their command, when, according to their own later statement, they had +then and at that time, and before such time (since they left Etah on +their return to America), the statements, trail of route and testimony +of the Eskimos entirely to the contrary, _Peary and his coterie +deliberately and knowingly perpetrated on the public the grossest of +falsehoods and impositions_. + +There are several other contradictions in the statement of October 13. +One is the statement that Pan-ic-pa (the father of E-tuk-i-shook), was +familiar with the first third and last third of the journey of Dr. Cook +and his two Eskimos. Pan-ic-pa may be familiar with the territory of the +last third of the route, but not with the journey made by Dr. Cook and +E-tuk-i-shook and Ah-we-lah over this part of the route, for these three +alone made the journey from Cape Sparbo to Annoatok. Pan-ic-pa went only +as far as the northern point of Heiberg Land, and returned from there +nearly a year before Dr. Cook and his two Eskimos arrived from Cape +Sparbo. This is shown by Peary and his party themselves in their +statement that Pan-ic-pa, the father of E-tuk-i-shook, a very +intelligent man, _who was in the party of Eskimos that came back from +Dr. Cook from the northern end of Nansen's Strait_ (Sound), came in and +indicated the same localities and details as the two boys. Of course +Pan-ic-pa could only indicate the localities that he had himself +journeyed to with Dr. Cook, and not any after he had left Dr. Cook and +the two Eskimos at the northern point of Heiberg Land, or the northern +end of Nansen's Sound, which is the same thing. + +Another contradiction, a very serious one indeed, as important as the +first of the foregoing contradictions is, that if Peary and his party +had such information from the Eskimos as they claimed in their statement +of October 13, then they knew that the little sledge of Dr. Cook which +they saw at Etah was not the sledge that made the trip to the Pole. The +printed reports show that long before October 13 Peary and all his +henchmen were challenging and charging to the public that the little +sled in question left with Whitney, could not possibly have made the +trip to the Pole. In the statement of October 13, Peary and his party +state that, according to the Eskimos, Dr. Cook and his two Eskimos +started from the northern point of Heiberg Land with only two sledges. +Further on in the statement, that the dogs and one sledge were abandoned +in Jones Sound, and that at Cape Vera--western end of Jones Sound--Peary +and his party say that E-tuk-i-shook and Ah-we-lah, Dr. Cook's two +Eskimos, informed them that (quoting Peary and his party's statement +verbatim), "here they cut the remaining sledge off--that is, shortened +it, as it was awkward to transport with the boat, and near here they +killed a walrus." + +_During all the time then, before October 13, that Peary and his party +were belittling this sled, and referring to its character as a positive +proof that Dr. Cook could not have reached the Pole, and stating that it +would have been knocked to pieces in a few days, they, according to +their own statement of October 13, knew, even while using such argument +against Dr. Cook, that the little sled was not the original sled, but +only a part of one which the desperate and fearfully hard-pressed +wanderers had themselves--having no dogs--dragged their food for three +hundred miles over one of the roughest and most terrible stretches of +the frozen zone, never before traveled by man._ According to their own +statement of October 13, Peary and his clique convict themselves of +boldly and deliberately perpetrating gross falsehoods against Dr. Cook +and upon the people. Then shall we believe anything further from them? + +There is only one rational view to take of their statement of October +13. That, knowing their first charges were certain to fail, the +statement of October 13 was concocted for their own base purposes. _No +sane person can believe that if they had had such exceedingly damaging +information as is claimed by them in their statement of October 13, they +could have instead made use of charges far less damaging and known to +them to be false._ + + W. J. ARMBRUSTER. + +ST. LOUIS, MO., April 13, 1910. + + +[25] One of the meanest and pettiest charges concocted for Mr. Peary at +a time when personal veracity was regarded as the test of rival claims +was that I had attempted to steal the scientific work of a missionary +while I was on the Belgica Antarctic Expedition. Director Townsend, of +the New York Aquarium, who, like Mr. Peary, was drawing a salary from +the taxpayers while his energies were spent in another mission, declared +I had taken a dictionary, compiled by Thos. Bridges, of Indian words, +and had put it forth as my own work. Dalenbagh, of the American +Geographical Society, and of the "Worm Diggers' Union," polly-like, also +repeated this charge. "Of the other charges against Dr. Cook we are at +sea," he said, "but here is something that we know about." By expending +five cents in stamps, five minutes with the pen, both Townsend and +Dalenbaugh might have learned that the dishonor which they were trying +to attach to some one else was on themselves. + +Under big headlines, "Dr. Cook Steals a Missionary's Work," the New York +_Times_ and other pro-Peary papers printed columns of absolute lies in +what purported to be interviews with Townsend. Dalenbaugh, pointing to +this gleefully, said "Dr. Cook has been guilty of wrong-doing for many +years." + +Now what were the facts? Among the scientific collections of the Belgian +Expedition, was a series of notes, embodying a Yahagan Indian +Dictionary, made by the missionary, Thomas Bridges. Although this was of +little use to anybody, it was a scientific record worthy of +preservation. In a friendly spirit toward the late Mr. Bridges and his +Indians, I persuaded the Belgians at great expense to publish the work. +It was written in the old Ellis system of orthography, which is not +generally understood. Working on this material for one year without pay, +I changed it to ordinary English orthography, but made few other +alterations. The book is not yet printed, but part of it is in press. +The introduction was printed five years ago, and among the first +paragraphs appear these words: + +"My visit among the tribe of Fuegians was not of sufficient length to +make a thorough study, nor had I the opportunity to collect much data +from Indians, but I was singularly fortunate in being in the company of +Mr. Thomas Bridges and Mr. John Lawrence, men who have made these people +their life study. The credit of collecting and making this Yahagan +Grammar and Vocabulary belongs solely to Mr. Bridges, who devoted most +of his time during thirty-seven years to recording this material. My +work is limited to a slight re-arrangement of the words, a few additions +of notes and words, and a conversion of the Ellis phonetic characters in +which the native words were written into ordinary English orthography. +It is hoped that this study of Yahagan language, with a few of their +tales and traditions, will, with a report of the French Expedition, make +a fitting end to an important record of a vanishing people." + +Then follows a short favorable biography of the man whose work I was +accused of stealing. + + +[26] Letter from Barrill's associate: + + MISSOULA, MONT., Oct. 12, 1909. + +Friend Cook--I am sorry that I can't come at present. But will come +and see you in about fifteen days if you will send me Three Hundred and +Fifty ($350.00), and I will say that the report in the papers (that Dr. +Cook did not ascend Mt. McKinley), from what I have, is not true. + +Hoping to see you soon. + + Your friend, + (Signed) FRED PRINTZ. + + +[27] While this book was going through the press, several chapters of +the proof-sheets, stolen from the printers, Messrs. Lent & Graff, were +found on the table of the Explorers' Club on June 27, 1911. It is +important to note that this pro-Peary repository of bribed, faked and +forged writings, which were issued to defame me, is also the den for +stolen goods. Who are the thieves who congregate there to deposit their +booty? Why the theft of a part of my book? What humbug has this club and +its shameless president next to offer? + + +[28] Letter from an onlooker when Mt. McKinley was climbed: + +To Dr. Cook's Friends: + +Professor Parker says "regretfully" that Dr. Cook's evidence as to the +ascent of Mt. McKinley was unconvincing. + +I was located in the foothills of Mt. McKinley, and had been for about a +year, when Dr. Cook, Professor H. C. Parker, Mr. Porter, the topographer +of the party, and Mr. Miller, Fred Printz and the rest of the party, +landed at the head-waters of the Yentna River, in the foothills of Mt. +McKinley. + +I met Professor Parker and the rest of the party, and saw a great deal +of them while they were up there, as I had three mining camps in the +foothills from which they made their try for the top of the mountain. I +let Dr. Cook have one of my Indian hunters, who knew every foot of the +country around there, for a guide. Dr. Cook also had some of his caches +in my camps, leaving supplies which he did not take along with his +pack-trains. Some of Dr. Cook's party were in our camps nearly every day +or so, and consequently I became very well posted in regard to Dr. +Cook's affairs, and very well acquainted with him. Dr. Parker should be +the last one to say anything about mountain-climbing or anything else +connected with the expedition, or anything where it takes a man and +pluck to accomplish results--good results; as he showed himself to be +the rankest kind of a tenderfoot while in the foothills of Mt. McKinley, +and was the laughing stock of the country. Mt. McKinley and the country +around there was too rough for him. He got "cold feet," and started back +for the States, before he had even seen much of the country around +there. + +Looking over my memoranda, I find that Dr. Cook had given up his attempt +to climb Mt. McKinley for the time being, and had sent Printz and Miller +on a hunting expedition, and the rest of the party was scattered out to +hunt up something new. + +At that time I came into Youngstown, and the boys were getting ready to +strike out on their different routes, and Dr. Cook was going down to +Tyonic, in Cook's Inlet, with his launch, to meet a friend, Mr. Disston, +who expected to go on a hunting trip with him. The friend did not +arrive, so Dr. Cook returned to the head-waters of the Yentna River, to +Youngstown, arriving there on Monday, August 27. On Sunday, August 28, +he started down to the Sushitna River. I went down with him as far as +the Sushitna Station, and he told me he was going to run up the river +and strike Fish Creek, which ran up on another side of Mt. McKinley, and +see what the chances were to make the top of the continent from that +side. He made it. I was one of the last to see him start on the ascent, +and one of the first to see him when he returned after he had made the +ascent. + +Dr. Cook proved to be a man in every respect, as unselfish as he was +courageous, always giving the other fellow a thought before thinking of +himself. + +Upon his arrival from the ascent of the mountain, although tired and +worn and in a bad physical condition himself, he gave his unlimited +attention to a party of prospectors who had been picked up from a wreck +in the river, and brought into camp in an almost dying condition just +before his arrival. He spent hours working over these men, and did not +give himself a thought until they were properly cared for. + +_Evidence?_ No man who has known Dr. Cook, been with him, worked with +him, and learned by personal experience of his courage, energy and +perseverance, would ask for evidence beyond his word. + +Dr. Cook is one of the most daring men, and can stand more hardships +than any man I have ever met, and I believe I have met some of the most +able men of the world when it comes to roughing it over the trails in +Alaska and the North. + +Dr. Cook climbed Mt. McKinley. Of course there are always skeptics--men +who have a wishbone instead of a backbone, and who, when wishing has +brought to them no good results, their last effort is pushed forth in +criticism of the things which have been constructed or accomplished by +men, their superiors. + +If Professor Parker wants evidence to convince him, I think he can find +it, provided he will put himself to as much trouble in looking for +evidence as he has in criticising such evidence as he has obtained. + + Respectfully yours, + J. A. MACDONALD. + +VONTRIGGER, CALIFORNIA. + + _Author's Note._--It is a curious fact that most men who have + assailed me are themselves sailing under false colors. Herschell + Parker was an assistant professor and instructor in the Department + of Physics in Columbia University. This gave him the advantage of + using the title, "Professor," but, like many others, his university + association was mostly for the prestige it gave him. His + professorship assumption was, therefore, a deception. Instead of + devoting himself conscientiously to university interests, he was, + like Peary, engaged in private enterprises--such as the Parker-Clark + light, and other ventures--and employed substitute instructors to do + the work for which he drew a salary, and for which he claimed the + honor and the prestige. A man who thus sails falsely under the + banner of a professorship is just the man to try to steal the honor + of other men. Here is a make-believe professor who is not a + professor; whose dwarfed conscience is eased by drippings from the + Arctic Trust; who has stooped to a photographic humbug. He is a + fitting exponent of the bribing pro-Peary propaganda. + + +[29] When Mr. Peary first returned from the North, and began his attacks +upon me, he caused a demand for "proofs" through the New York _Times_ +and its affiliated papers; he had them call for my instruments; he +insinuated that I had had no instruments with me in the North (despite +the fact that Captain Bartlett had informed him that my own Eskimos had +testified that I had); he declared that any Polar claim must be +established by an examination of observations and an examination of the +explorer's instruments. + +In view of the unwarranted newspaper call for "proofs," I was +embarrassed by having left my instruments with Whitney. Mr. Peary had +his, however. But were they carefully examined by the august body who so +eagerly decided he reached the Pole? Was the verdict of the +self-appointed arbiters of the so-called National Geographic Society +based upon such examination as Mr. Peary--concerning my case--had +declared necessary? + +Testifying before the subcommittee of the Committee on Naval Affairs, +when the move was on to have Peary made a Rear-Admiral, Henry Gannett, +one of the three members of the National Geographic Society, who had +passed on Peary's claim, admitted that their examination of Mr. Peary's +instruments was casually and hastily made in the Pennsylvania Station at +Washington. When Peary later appeared in person before the committee, he +admitted having come to Washington from Portland, Maine, to consult with +the members of the National Geographic Society who were to examine his +proofs, and that he had brought his instruments with him in a trunk, +which was left at the station. The following took place (See official +Congressional Report, Private Calendar No. 733, Sixty-first Congress, +Third Session, House of Representatives, Report No. 1961, pages 21 and +22): + +"Mr. Roberts--How did the instruments come down? + +"Captain Peary--They came in a trunk. + +"Mr. Roberts--Your trunk? + +"Captain Peary--Yes. + +"Mr. Roberts--After you reached the station and found the trunk, what +did you and the committee do regarding the instruments? + +"Captain Peary--I should say that we opened the trunk there in the +station. + +"Mr. Roberts--That is, in the baggage-room of the station? + +"Captain Peary--Yes. + +"Mr. Roberts--Were the instruments all taken out? + +"Captain Peary--_That I could not say. Members of the committee will +probably remember better than I._ + +"Mr. Roberts--Well, do you not have any recollection of whether they +took them out and examined them? + +"Captain Peary--Some were taken out, I should say; whether all were +taken out I could not say. + +"Mr. Roberts--Was any test of those instruments made by any member of +the committee to ascertain whether or not the instruments were +inaccurate? + +"Captain Peary--_That I could not say. I should imagine that it would +not be possible to make tests there._ + +"Mr. Roberts--Were those instruments ever in the possession of the +committee other than the inspection at the station? + +"Captain Peary--NOT TO MY KNOWLEDGE." + +NOTE.--This, then, was the basis of the glorious verdict of the packed +jury which assailed me; which demanded as necessary instruments of me +which had been left in the North, and which posed as a fair body of +experts! + +All important questions asked of Peary, Tittman and Gannett were hedged, +their aim being to avoid publicity. In substance, they admitted that in +the "Peary Proofs," passed upon a year before, there was no proof. They +admitted that their favorable verdict was reached upon an examination of +COPIES of Mr. Peary's observations, and that the examination and +decision occurred at a sort of social gathering in the house of Admiral +Chester, who had attacked me. Chairman Roberts, commenting on the +testimony, wrote (see page 15): + +"From these extracts from the testimony it will be seen that Mr. +Gannett, after his careful examination of Captain Peary's proofs and +records, did not know how many days it took Captain Peary from the time +he left Bartlett to reach the Pole and return to the _Roosevelt_, that +information being supplied by a Mr. Grosvenor. It will be also observed +that Mr. Gannett, as a result of his careful examination of Captain +Peary's proofs and records, gives Captain Peary, in his final dash to +the Pole, the following equipment: Two sledges, 36 or 32 dogs, 2 +Eskimos, and Henson. It will be seen later from Captain Peary's +testimony, that he had on that final dash 40 dogs, 5 sledges, and a +total of six men in his party. This discrepancy on so vital a point must +seem quite conclusive that the examination of the Geographic Society's +committee was anything but careful." + + + * * * * * + + + + +APPENDIX + + + + +COPY OF THE FIELD NOTES + + +The following copy of the daily entries in one of my original note-books +takes the expedition step by step from Svartevoeg to the Pole and back +to land. + +As will be seen by those here reproduced, the original notes are mostly +abbreviations and suggestions, hasty tabulations and reminders, +memoranda to be later elaborated. The hard environment, the scarcity of +materials, and cold fingers did not encourage extensive field notes. +Most of these field notes were rewritten while in Jones Sound, and some +were also copied and elaborated in Greenland. + +In planning this expedition, every article of equipment and every phase +of effort was made subordinate to the one great need of covering long +distances. We deliberately set out for the Pole, with a desperate +resolution to succeed, and although appreciating the value of detail +scientific work, I realized that such work could not be undertaken in a +pioneer project like ours. We therefore did not burden ourselves with +cumbersome instruments, nor did we allow ourselves to be side-tracked in +attractive scientific pursuits. Elaborate results are not claimed, but +the usual data of Arctic expeditions were gathered with fair success. + +(Notes usually written at end of day's march.) + + ---------------------------------------------------------------------- + |Date.| Miles | OBSERVATIONS, ETC. + | |Covered.| (Exact copy from original Field Papers) + -----+-----+--------+------------------------------------------------- + March| 18 | 26 | Svartevoeg. Made cache here for return. + 1908.| | | Supporting party goes back. Noon start; + | | | 4 men, 46 dogs, 4 sleds; 26 miles. Ice heavy, + | | | wavy; little snow; crystals hard; land + | | | screened by drift. Camp on old field. Night + | | | uncomfortable; air humid, penetrating. + | | | Snowhouse of hard snow imperfectly made. + | | | (Other notes of this date so dim that they + | | | cannot be read. _Compass directions, unless + | | | otherwise noted, are true._) + | | | + | 19 | 21 | Clearer, overland thick; -56° F.; Wind 2 W.; + | | | sun feeble; blue haze. On march, ice smaller; + | | | use of axe; crossings troublesome. Camp lee of + | | | big hummock. Cannot send supply back; must + | | | follow for another day. + | | | + | 20 | 16 | Land more clearly visible; sky overcast; wind + | | | W. S. W. 1; ice worse. Small igloo. The last + | | | feed men return. + | | | + | 21 | 29 | Awoke, sun N. E.; orange glow; -63° F.; + | | | bar. 30.10, steady; no clouds; sky pale purple. + | | | More snow (on ice); groaning sledges; mirages, + | | | lands, mountains, volcanoes. Air light; wind + | | | sky N.; Grant Land a mere line; -46°. Torture + | | | of light snow; march 14 hours. + | | | + | 22 | 22 | A. M.; wind E. 3; -59°. Start 12 (noon); sky + | | | clearer; wind 2; water sky N. Grant Land visible + | | | P. M. (Later) Temp. rose to -46°. Wind tolerably + | | | high; pressure lines; the big lead. Camp on old + | | | field on bank; ice noises; search for the + | | | crossing. Young, elastic ice. + | | | + | 23 | 17 | Cross the big lead. Young ice elastic and + | | | dangerous; western sky again threatening; ice + | | | movement east; fields small; narrow open lanes. + | | | Course for 85th on 97th; -40°; march 11 hours; + | | | 23 miles, credit 17 miles. Ice noises; night + | | | beautiful; sun sank into pearly haze. (Later) + | | | Orange glow; pack violet and pale purple blue; + | | | sky late--partly cl. appearance of land W. + | | | + | 24 | 18 | Observations 83.31--96.27; -41°; bar. 29.70. + | | | West bank of fog and haze. Start afternoon; + | | | no life; old seal hole and bear tracks; long + | | | march; ice improving. 10 h.; pedometer 21 m.; + | | | camp in coming storm; rushing clouds; signs of + | | | land W. 18 m. (credited on course). + | | | + | 25 | 18 | Early awakened by dogs. Storm spent soon; + | | | sunrise temp. -26°, later -41°; west again + | | | smoky. Back to the bags; cracking ice; the + | | | breaking and separating ice and the crevasse + | | | episode; in a bag and in water; ice-water + | | | and pemmican; masks of ice. Good march over + | | | newly-fractured ice; ice in motion. + | | | + | 26 | 17 | Still windy; some drift snow; another storm + | | | threatening. How we need rest! Strong wind + | | | during the night. Position D. R. 84.24--96.53. + | | | + | 27 | 16 | In camp until noon. Strong winds all night; + | | | eased at noon; clearing some; sun; weather + | | | unsettled. Short run; squally en route; made + | | | early camp. Bar. 29.05. + | | | + | 28 | 0 | Weather still unsettled. Temp. -41°; Bar. 29.15; + | | | west ugly. No progress. The drift. In camp. + | | | Anxious about stability of igloo. The collapsed + | | | camp. Midnight; north cloudy, but ice bright; + | | | many hummocks. + | | | + | 29 | 9 | Start early P. M. A little blue in the west; sun + | | | bursts; pack disturbed; hard traveling, due to + | | | fresh crevasses. Camp midnight; only 9 miles. + | | | + | 30 | 10 | Land, 9 A. M., cleared; land was seen; westerly + | | | clouds settled over it. Observations 84.50, + | | | 95.36; bearing of land, southern group, West by + | | | South to West by North true. Other bearings + | | | taken later place a coast line along the 102 + | | | meridian from lat. 84° 20´ to 85° 10´. There + | | | must be much open water about the land, for + | | | banks of vapor persistently hide part. A low fog + | | | persistent; cannot see shore; for days we have + | | | expected to see something W., but never a clear + | | | horizon. Probably two island S. like Heiberg, + | | | 1,800 ft. high, valleys, mountains, snow N., + | | | table 1,000, thin ice sheet, bright nights. + | | | From observation paper: Bar. 30.10, had risen + | | | from 29.50 in 2 hours; wind 2-3 mag. S.; + | | | clouds mist, East, water-bands W.; shadow + | | | (of 6 ft. pole) 39 ft. + | | | + | 31 | 10 | Land screened by mist; wind W. 2-0. Ice + | | | fracture; no sign of life--none since 83. + | | | + April| 1 | 18 | (Time of traveling) 9 to 6; ice better; fields + 1908.| | | larger; crevasses less troublesome; temp. -32°. + | | | There is no more darkness at night. + | | | + | 2 | 12 | (Start) 9.30; (stop) 8. Smooth ice; hard snow; + | | | ice 28 ft. and 32. Night bright but cloudy. + | | | Temp. -35°; bar. 30.10; leads difficult. + | | | + | 3 | 10 | 8.30 to 6.30. Temp. -39°; bar. 30.12; sky + | | | clearing at noon, but low clouds and frosty haze + | | | persist in the W. and N. Night bright; sun at + | | | midnight under cloud and haze. + | | | + | 4 | 14 | 8.45 to 6.10. Snow softer; used snowshoes; have + | | | crossed 11 crevasses; much chopping; brash and + | | | small hummocks. + | | | + | 5 | 14 | 9 (A. M.) to 5.45 (P. M.). Snow better. + | | | Ice larger. Oh, so tired! Snowshoes. + | | | + | 6 | 14 | 8.10 (A. M.) to 6.15 (P. M.). Snow hard. Ice + | | | flat. Few hummocks. Less wavy. Snow (shoes). + | | | Sun faces. + | | | + | 7 | 14 | 11 to 10. Beautiful clear weather; even the + | | | night sky clear. Midnight sun first seen. + | | | Ice 36 ft. (thick). (Another measurement gave + | | | 21 feet.) + | | | + | 8 | 9 | Observation before starting, 86.36, 94.2. In + | | | spite of what seemed like long marches we made + | | | only 106 miles in 9 days. Much distance lost in + | | | crossings. (From field paper) bar. 29.50, + | | | rising; temp. -37°; wind mag. N. E., 2; clouds + | | | St. 3; shadow (6 ft. pole), 32 feet. + | | | + | 9 | 14 | 9 A. M. to 5.30 P. M.; snow hard; ice about the + | | | same; wind cutting; frost bites. Clothes humid. + | | | + | 10 | 16 | 10 P. M. to 7 A. M. Working hours changed; big + | | | marches and long hours no longer possible; snow + | | | good; ice steadily improving; bodily fatigue + | | | much felt; wind 1-28 W. + | | | + | 11 | 15 | 10.30 to 8 A. M. Observation end of March, + | | | 87.20, 95.19; the pack disturbance of B. Ld. + | | | lost; farthest north; little crushed ice; + | | | old floes less irregular; anxious about food; + | | | wind 3 W. (true); 300 miles in 24 days; work + | | | intermittent; too tired to read instruments. + | | | (From other field notes, Temp. -39°; + | | | bar. 29.90°.) + | | | + | 12 | 21 | 11 P. M. to 7 A. M. Thoughts of return. Food + | | | supply reduced. Hope to economize in warmer + | | | weather. Very heavy ice. Much like land ice. + | | | Wind 2 W. S. W. The awful monotony! + | | | + | 13 | 17 | 12 P. M. to 7 A. M. The same heavy glacier-like + | | | ice.... The occasional soup. Hummocks 15-20 ft. + | | | Ahwelah in tears at start. W. black. Sun under + | | | rushing vapors. Ice changes. Leads. + | | | + | 14 | 23 | 11 P. M. to 7.10 A. M. 88.21, 95.52. Wind light + | | | but penetrating. Off the big field, ice smaller. + | | | Some open leads. Little sign of pressure. Snow + | | | soft, but less precipitation. Dogs get up + | | | better speed. 100 miles from Pole. (From other + | | | observation papers: Bar. 29.90, falling; + | | | temp., -44°; shadow (6 ft. pole) 30½ feet.) + | | | + | 15 | 14 | 10 P. M. to 7 A. M. Ice same. Wind -1, S. W. + | | | Working to the limit of muscle capacity. So + | | | tired and weary of the never ceasing tread! + | | | + | 16 | 15 | 10.30 to 8 A. M. Ice passed. Several heavy old + | | | floes. Made 6 crossings. Wind 1-3, W. S. W. + | | | + | 17 | 13 | 10.15 to 8 A. M. Ice same. Crevasses new. + | | | 7 crossings. Saw several big hummocks. Ice + | | | less troublesome. Temp., -40°; bar., 30.00. + | | | Sled friction less. + | | | + | 18 | 14 | 9 P. M. to 6. Ice, though broken, smooth. The + | | | horizon line not so irregular as that of more + | | | S. ice. Sky and ice of a dark purple blue. + | | | (Bar. 30.02.) + | | | + | 19 | 16 | 11 P. M. to 8 A. M. (Position) 89.31. D. R. + | | | 94.03. Camp on an old field--the only one on + | | | the horizon with big hummocks. Ice in very large + | | | fields; surface less irregular, but in other + | | | respects not different from farther S. Eskimos + | | | told that in two average marches Pole would be + | | | reached. Extra rations served. Camp in tent. + | | | (Bar., 29.98; Temp., -46°.) + | | | + | 20 | 15½ | 8 P. M. to 4 A. M. An exciting run; ice aglow in + | | | purple and gold; Eskimos chanting. Wind, S. 1 + | | | 89; 46.45. (D. R.) 94.52. New enthusiasm; good + | | | march. Temp., -36°; bar. (not legible on notes); + | | | course set for 97th. + | | | + | 21 | 13½ | 1 A. M. to 9 A. M. Observations noon: 89; 59.45; + | | | ped. 14. Camp; sleep in tent short time; after + | | | observations advance; pitch tent; (also) made + | | | camp--snow--prepared for two rounds of + | | | observations. Temp., 37.7°; bar., 29.83. Nothing + | | | wonderful; no Pole; a sea of unknown depth; ice + | | | more active; new cracks; open leads; but surface + | | | like farther south. Overjoyed but find no words + | | | to express pleasure. So tired and weary! How we + | | | need a rest! 12, night. Sun seems as high as at + | | | noon, but in reality is a little higher, owing + | | | to its spiral ascent. The mental elation--the + | | | drying of furs, and (making) photos--Eskimos' + | | | ideas and disappointment of no Pole--thoughts + | | | of home and its cheer. But oh, such monotony of + | | | sky, wind and ice! The dangers of getting back. + | | | (From other observation papers: Temp, ranged + | | | from -36° by mercury thermometer to -39° by + | | | spirit thermometer; clouds Alt. St., 1; wind + | | | mag. S., 1; ice blink E.; water sky, W.; shadow + | | | (of 6 ft. pole) 28 feet.) + | | | + | 22 | 0 | Moved camp 4 m. magnetic S. Made 4 observations + | | | for altitude; S. at noon, W. at 6, N. at 12M, E. + | | | at 6 A. M. Ice same; more open water; wind 2-3; + | | | temp., -41°; (from field paper) W. S. W., 1 to + | | | 2. There are only two big hummocks in sight. + | | | (Made a series of observations for the sun's + | | | altitude, 2 on the 21st at the first camp, 4 on + | | | the 22nd at W. M. camp, and another midnight + | | | 22-23. Before we left deposited tube.) + | | | + | 23 | 20 | Start for home. 12.30 to noon. Fairly clear--ice + | | | smooth, but many new crevasses. Temp., -41°. + | | | Course for 100 mer. + | | | + | 24 | 16 | 11 P. M. to 9 A. M. These records, being made at + | | | the end of the day's journey, give the doings of + | | | the day previous--this note for the 24th is in + | | | reality written on the morning of the 25th, when + | | | comfortable in camp. Wind 1-2 W. Temp., -36°. + | | | Ice smooth--fields larger; 5 crossings; the + | | | pleasure of facing home. + | | | + | 25 | 15 | 8-8. Temp., -37°; Wind 1-2 W. S. W.; ice same. + | | | The worry of ice breaking up for me, signs of + | | | joy for the Eskimo. + | | | + | 26 | 14 | 9 to 7. Still much worried about return; + | | | possibility of ice disruption and open water + | | | near land; wind light; ice shows new cracks, + | | | but few have opened; seems to be little + | | | pressure; few hummocks; snow hard and + | | | traveling all that could be desired. + | | | + | 27 | 14 | 9.30 to 8. Ice same; wind S. E. 1; good going; + | | | crossings not troublesome; dogs in good spirits; + | | | Eskimos happy; but all very tired. Temp., -40°. + | | | + | 28 | 14 | 9.15 to 7.45. Ice same; wind 1 W.; snow + | | | moderately hard; few hummocks and no pressure + | | | lines. + | | | + | 29 | 13 | Midnight to 8.45 A. M. Ice more active; fresh + | | | cracks; some open cracks but no leads. Wind 1 S. + | | | + | 30 | 15 | Midnight to 8 A. M. Ped. registered 121 m. from + | | | Pole; camp by D. R., 87.59-100; observations + | | | 88.01, 97.42. Course half point more W. + | | | Temp., -34°. Start more westerly. + | | | + May | 1 | 18 | 12.30 to 9 A. M. Much color to the sunbursts, + 1908.| | | but the air humid; the temperature persistently + | | | near -40°, but considerable range with the + | | | direction of the light winds and mists when + | | | they come over leads. Much very heavy smooth + | | | ice--undulating, not hummocky like S. + | | | + | 2 | 12 | 2 A. M. to 11 A. M. Fog, clouds and wet air. + | | | Temp., -15°. Hard to strike a course. + | | | + | 3 | 13 | 1 A. M. to 10 A. M. Thick weather; wind E. 2; + | | | ice friction less; occasional light snow fall. + | | | + | 4 | 14 | 3 to 11 A. M. Air clear but sky obscured; ice + | | | very good, but hummocks appearing on the + | | | horizon. + | | | + | 5 | 11 | 11 P. M. to 6 A. M. Strong wind; occasional + | | | breathing spell behind hummocks; squally with + | | | drifts. + | | | + | 6 | 0 | In camp. Stopped by signs of storm; tried to + | | | build igloo but wind prevented; in a collapsed + | | | tent for 24 hours; eat only half ration of + | | | pemmican. + | | | + | 7 | 10 | 8 A. M. to 3 P. M. Wind detestable; ice bad; + | | | life a torture; sky persistently obscured; no + | | | observations; pedometer out of order, only time + | | | to gauge our distance. + | | | + | 8 | 12 | 2 A. M. to 10. Weather bad; windy, S. W.; some + | | | drift; heavy going. + | | | + | 9 | 13 | 1 to 8 A. M. (Weather) thick; wind easier; ice + | | | in big fields; snow a little harder, snowshoes + | | | steady. + | | | + | 10 | 13 | 11 P. M. of the 9th to 6 A. M. Heavy going but + | | | little friction on sled; some drift; see more + | | | hummocks. + | | | + | 11 | 0 | May 11. In camp. Strong wind; heavy drift; + | | | encircle tent with snow blocks. + | | | + | 12 | 11 | 12.30 to 8.30 A. M. Wind still strong; cestrugi + | | | troublesome, but temperature moderate; sled + | | | loads getting light. + | | | + | 13 | 12 | 11 P. M. of 12th, to 7.30 A. M. of 13th. Wind + | | | easier, S. S. W.; snow harder; ice very thick + | | | and very large fields; fog. + | | | + | 14 | 9 | 3 A. M. to 9 A. M. No sky; strong wind compelled + | | | to camp early. + | | | + | 15 | 13 | 1 A. M. to 10. Fog; ice much crevassed; passed + | | | over several cracks--some opening. + | | | + | 16 | 14 | May 16. 11 P. M. of the 15th to 6 A. M. Cl. 10; + | | | wind again troublesome; light diffused, making + | | | it difficult to find footing. + | | | + | 17 | 11 | 2 A. M. to 10. Thick; ice more and more broken; + | | | smaller and more cracked--cracks give much + | | | trouble. + | | | + | 18 | 11 | 1 A. M. to 9.30. Wind more southerly and strong; + | | | ice separating; some open water in leads. + | | | + | 19 | 12 | 11 P. M. to 7.30. Wind veering east; fog + | | | thicker; ice very much broken, but snow surface + | | | good. + | | | + | 20 | 6 | Midnight to 9 A. M. Open water; active pack; + | | | almost impossible. + | | | + | 21 | 8 | 11 P. M. to 9. Conditions the same; our return + | | | seems almost hopeless; no observations--cannot + | | | even guess at the drift. + | | | + | 22 | 0 | In camp. Gale N. E.; temp, high; air wet; + | | | ice breaking and grinding; worried about the + | | | ultimate return; food low. + | | | + | 23 | 5 | 3 A. M. to 7 A. M. Still squally, but forced a + | | | short march. + | | | + | 24 | 12 | 12 noon to 8 A. M. Short clearing at noon; the + | | | first clear mid-day sky for a long time; west + | | | still in haze. Water sky W. and S. W.; no land + | | | in sight--though the boys saw the land later + | | | when I was asleep; ice much broken. + | | | 84° 02´-97° 03´. + | | | + | 25 | 14 | 10 P. M. to 6 A. M. Ice better; no wind; thick + | | | fog; snow hard. Temp., -10°. + | | | + | 26 | 12 | 11 P. M. to 7.45 A. M. Ice in fields of about + | | | 1 M. somewhat hummocky; crossings hard; no wind. + | | | + | 27 | 11 | 11.30 P. M. to 9.30 A. M. Ice same; thick fog. + | | | + | 28 | 13 | 12 m. night to 10 A. M. Ice still same; fog; + | | | wind 3, shifting E. S. E. and S. W. + | | | + | 29 | 11 | 11.30 P. M. to 9.30 A. M. As we came here the + | | | water sky in the southwest to which we had + | | | aimed, gradually working west, led to a wide + | | | open lead, extending from north to south, and + | | | almost before knowing it, in the general plan + | | | of the ice arrangement, we found ourselves to + | | | the east of this lead. Temp. rose to zero. Ice + | | | much broken; air thick; light vague; impossible + | | | to see irregularities. Food 3/4 rations; and + | | | straight course for Nansen Sound. + | | | + | 30 | 10 | 12 to 11 A. M. Ice in heaps; open water; brash + | | | the worst trouble; little fog. + | | | + | 31 | 11 | 11.15 P. M. to 9 A. M. Ice little better; snow + | | | hard; sleds go easy; much helping required + | | | (over pressure lines). + | | | + June | 1 | 12 | 10.45 to 8. Ice in large fields; many hummocks; + 1908.| | | few heavy fields. + | | | + | 2 | 12 | 10 P. M. to 9 A. M. Ice steadily improving. + | | | + | 3 | 11 | 10 P. M. to 8 A. M. Ice begins to show action of + | | | sun. Temperature occasionally above freezing. + | | | + | 4 | 10 | 9.30 P. M. to 7.30 A. M. Fog; ice offering much + | | | trouble, but friction little and load light. + | | | + | 5 | 11 | 9.45 P. M. to 7 A. M. Hummocks exposed to sun + | | | have icicles. + | | | + | 6 | 0 | In camp. Strong N. W. gale. + | | | + | 7 | 0 | In camp. Gale continues, with much snow; the ice + | | | about breaks up; anxious about map. (Not knowing + | | | either drift or position, were puzzled as to + | | | proper course to set.) + | | | + | 8 | 14 | 1 A. M. to noon. Ice bad, but snow hard, and + | | | after rest progress good; wind still blowing + | | | west. + | | | + | 9 | 10 | 11 P. M. to 9 A. M. With thick ice and this kind + | | | of traveling it is hard to guess at distances. + | | | + | 10 | 0 | 10.30 P. M. to 8. Bad ice; open leads; still no + | | | sun. + | | | + | 11 | 14 | 10 P. M. to 8 A. M. Large smooth ice; little + | | | snow; wind S. W., 1; no fog, but sky still of + | | | lead. + | | | + | 12 | 15 | 10.30 to 5. Small fields but good going; + | | | sky black to the east. + | | | + | 13 | 14 | 10 to 8 A. M. Fog cleared first time since last + | | | observation. Land in sight south and east. + | | | Heiberg and Ringnes Land; water sky; small ice; + | | | brash and drift eastward. We have been carried + | | | adrift far to the south and west, and + | | | examination of ice eastward proves that all + | | | is small ice and open water. Heiberg Island + | | | is impossible to us. What is our fate? Food and + | | | fuel is about exhausted, though we still have + | | | 10 bony dogs. Upon these and our little pemmican + | | | we can possibly survive for 20 days. In the + | | | meantime we must go somewhere. To the south + | | | is our only hope. + ---------------------------------------------------------------------- + +NOTE.--_June 14_ and thereafter to _September 1_, all notes were briefly +jotted down in another diary, a collection of loose leaves in which the +observations of the return were made. This diary was left with the +instruments at Etah with Mr. Whitney. The data, however, had been +rewritten at Cape Sparbo, so that the notes had served their purpose and +were of no further value when no pretentious publication was +anticipated. + +Other notes were made on loose sheets of paper or on leaves of the note +books. Many of these were destroyed, others were rubbed out to make room +for recording what was regarded as more important data, and a few were +retained quite by accident. + + + + +QUESTIONS THAT ENTER CALCULATIONS FOR POSITION OF THE NORTH POLE. + +By FREDERICK A. COOK. + + +Much abstruse, semi-scientific and academic material has been forced +into the polar discussions about proofs by observation. The problem +presented is full of interesting points, and to elucidate these I will +ask the reader to go back with me to that elusive imaginary spot, the +North Pole. Here we find no pole--and absolutely nothing to mark the +spot for hundreds of miles. We are in the center of a great moving sea +of ice and for 500 miles in every direction it is the same hopeless +desert of floating, shifting crystal. I believed then that we had +reached the Pole, and it never occurred to me that there would be a cry +for absolute proof. Such a demand had never been presented before. The +usual data of the personal narrative of the explorers had always been +received with good faith. But let us reopen the question and examine the +whole problem. + +Is there any positive proof for a problem of this kind? Is there any one +sure shoulder upon which we can hang the mantle of polar conquest? We +are deprived of the usual landmarks of terrestrially fixed points. The +effort to furnish proof is like trying to fix a point in Mid-Atlantic. +But here you have the tremendous advantage of known compass variation, +sure time, reasonably accurate corrections. Not only by careful +observation at sea of fixed stars and other astronomical data, but by an +easy and quick access to and from each shore, and by reliable tables for +reductions gathered during scores of years of experience. + +All this is denied in the mid-polar basins at the time when it is +possible to arrive there. There is no night, there are no stars, and the +sun, the only fixed object by which a position can be calculated, is not +absolutely fixable. It is low on the horizon. Its rays are bent in +getting to the recording instruments while passing through the thick +maze of floating ice mist. This mist always rests on the pack even in +clear days. The very low temperature of the atmosphere and the +distorting, twisting mirage effect of different strata of air, with +radically different temperatures, wherein each stratum has a different +density, carry different quantities of frosted humidity. + +All of this gives to the sunbeam, upon which the calculation for +latitude and longitude is based, the deceptive appearance of a paddle +thrust into clear water. The paddle in such case seems bent. The sunbeam +is bent in a like manner, since it passes through an unknown depth of +refractory air for the correction of which no law can be devised until +modern aerial navigation brings to a science that very complex problem +of the geography of the atmosphere. For this reason, and for others +which we will presently show, this whole idea of proof by figures as +devised by Mr. Peary and the armchair geographers, falls to pieces. + +Let us take the noon observation--a fairly certain method to determine +latitude in most zones of the earth where for hundreds of years we have +learned to make certain corrections, which by use have been incorporated +as laws in the art of navigation. About five minutes before local noon +the sea captain goes to the bridge with sextant in hand. His time is +certain, but even if it were not, the sun rises and sets and therefore +changes its altitude quickly. The captain screws the sun down to a fixed +angle on his sextant; he puts the instrument aside; then takes it up +again, brings the sun to the horizon, examines his instrument. The sun +has risen a little further; it is not yet noon. This is repeated again +and again, and at last the sun begins to descend. It is now local noon. +This gives a rough check for his time. There is a certain sure moment +for his observation at just the second when it is accurate,--when the +sun's highest ascent has been reached. Such advantages are impossible +when nearing the Pole. The chronometers have been shooting the shoots of +the pack for weeks. The sudden changes of temperature also disturb the +mechanism, and therefore time, that very important factor upon which all +astronomical data rest, is at best only a rough guess. For this reason +alone, if for no other, such as unknown refraction and other optical +illusions, the determination of longitude when nearing the Pole becomes +difficult and unreliable. All concede this, but latitude, we are told by +the armchair observer, is easy and sure. Let us see. + +The time nears to get a peep of the sun at noon, but what is local +noon? The chronometers may be, and probably are, far off. And there is +no way to correct even approximately. I do not mean on hours, but there +may be unknowable differences of minutes, and each minute represents a +mile. Let us see how this affects our noon observation. Five or ten +minutes before local noon the observer levels his artificial horizon and +with sextant in hand lies down on the snow. A little drift and nose +bleaching wind complicate matters. The fingers are cold; the instrument +must be handled with mittens; the cold is such that at best a shiver +runs up the spine, the eye blinks with snow glitter and frost. The arms, +hands and legs become stiff from cold and from inaction. He tries +exactly what the sea captain does in comfort on the bridge, but his time +is a guess, he watches the sun, he tries to catch it when it is highest, +but this is about as difficult as it is to catch a girl in the act of +winking when her back is turned. + +The sun does not rise and set as it does in temperate climes--it circles +the horizon day and night in a spiral ascent so nearly parallel to the +line of the horizon that it is a practical impossibility to determine by +any possible means at hand when it is highest. One may lie on that snow +for an hour, and though steadied with the patience of Job, the absolute +determination of the highest point of the sun's altitude or the local +noon is almost a physical impossibility. + +This observation is not accurate and gives only results of use in +connection with other calculations. These results at best are also +subject to that unknown allowance for really great atmospheric +refraction. The geographic student will, I am sure, agree that against +this the magnetic needle will offer some check, for if you can be +certain that when the needle points to a positive direction, then it is +a simple matter to get approximate time with it and the highest noon +altitude; but since the correction for the needle, like that of latitude +and longitude, is based on accurate time, and since it is further +influenced by other local and general unknown conditions--therefore even +the compass, that sheet anchor of the navigator, is as uncertain as +other aids to fixing a position in the polar basin. + +In making such observations an artificial horizon must be used. This +offers an uncontrollable element of inaccuracy in all Arctic +observations when the sun is low. + +My observations were made with the sun about 12° above the horizon. At +this angle the image of the sun is dragged over the glass or mercury +with no sharp outlines, a mere streak of light, and not a perfect, +sharp-cut image of the sun which an important observation demands. + +Mr. Peary's altitudes were all less than 7°. I challenge any one to +produce a clear cut image of the sun on an artificial horizon with the +sun at that angle. All such observations therefore are unreliable +because of imperfect contact, for which there can be no correction. + +The question of error by refraction is one of very great importance. In +the known zones the accumulated lesson of ages has given us certain +tables for correction, but even with these advantages few navigators +would take an observation when the sun is but 7° above the horizon and +count it of any value whatever. + +In the Arctic the problem of refraction presents probable inaccuracies, +not of seconds or minutes, but possibly of degrees. Every Arctic +traveler has seen in certain atmospheric conditions a dog enlarged to +the image of a bear. A raven frequently looks like a man, and a hummock, +but 25 feet high, a short distance away, will at times rise to the +proportions of a mountain. Mirages turn things topsy-turvy, and the +whole polar topography is distorted by optical illusions. Many explorers +have seen the returning sun over a sea horizon after the long night one +or two days before the correct time for its reappearance. This gives you +an error in observations which can be a matter of 60 miles. + +Here is a tangle in optics, which cannot under the present knowledge of +conditions be elucidated, and yet with all these disadvantages, the +group of armchair geographers of the National Geographic Society +pronounces a series of sun altitudes less than 7° above the horizon as +proof positive of the attainment of the Pole. Furthermore these men are +personal friends of Mr. Peary, and the society for whom they act is +financially interested in the venture which they indorsed. + +Is this verdict based upon either science or justice, or honor? + +In response to a public clamor for a peep at these papers, a more +detestable unfairness was forced on the public. The venerable director +of the Coast and Geodetic Survey, who was one of Mr. Peary's jurors, +instead of showing his hand, and thus freeing himself from a dishonest +entanglement, asked his underlings, H. C. Mitchell and C. R. Duval, to +stoop to a dishonor to veil the humbug previously perpetrated. Under the +instruction of their chief, the first figures of Mr. Peary's sextant +readings have been taken, and by manipulating these they have helped Mr. +Peary by saying that their calculation placed Mr. Peary within two miles +of the Pole. + +Perhaps Mr. Peary was at the pin-point of the Pole, but when he allows +his friends to use questionable methods to give a false security to his +claim, then his claim is insecure indeed. + +Mitchell and Duval took the sextant readings at face value. If Mr. Peary +or his computers had frankly admitted the uncertainty of the grounds +upon which these sextant readings rested, then one would be inclined to +grant the benefit of doubt; but as was the case regarding the verdict of +the National Geographic Society, the public was carefully excluded from +a knowledge of the shaky grounds upon which these calculations are +based. The impossibility of correct time and adequate allowance for +refraction render such figures useless as proof of a position. But what +about the image of the sun upon the artificial horizon? + +An important observation demands that this should be sharp and clear, +otherwise the observation is worthless. Mitchell and Duval have surely +thought of this. Perhaps they have tried an experiment. As real +scientific students they should have experimented with the figures with +which they played. If the experiment has not been made they are +incompetent. In either case a trick has been used to bolster up the +deceptive verdict of the National Geographic Society. + +A dish of molasses, a bull's eye lantern and a dark room are all that is +necessary to prove how the public has been deceived by men in the +Government pay as scientific computers. With the bull's eye as the sun, +the molasses or any other reflecting surface as a horizon, with the +light striking the surface at less than 7 degrees, as Mr. Peary's sun +did, it will be found that the sun's image is an oblong streak of light +with ill-defined edges. Such an image cannot be recorded on a sextant +with sufficient accuracy to make it of any use as an observation. +Mitchell and Duval must know this. If so, they are dishonest, for they +did not tell the public about it. If they did not know it they are +incompetent and should be dismissed from the Government service. + +With all of these uncertainties a course which gives a workable plan of +action can be laid over the blank charts, but there always remains the +feebly guarded mystery of the ice drift. When the course is set, the +daily run of distance can be checked by estimating speed and hourly +progress with the watches. Against this there is the check of the +pedometer or some other automatic measure for distance covered. The +shortening night shadows and the gradual coming to a place where the +night and day shadows are of about equal length is a positive conviction +to him who is open to self-conviction, as a polar aspirant is likely to +be. But frankly and candidly, when I now review one and all of these +methods of fixing the North Pole, or the position of a traveler en route +to it, I am bound to admit that all attempt at proof represented by +figures is built on a foundation of possible and unknowable inaccuracy. +Figures may convince an armchair geographer who has a preconceived +opinion, but to the true scientist with the many chances for mistakes +above indicated there is no real proof. The verdict on such data must +always be "not proven" if the evidence rests on a true scientific +examination of material which at best and in the very nature of things +is not checked by the precision which science demands. The real +proof--if proof is possible--is the continuity of the final printed book +that gives all the data with the consequent variations. + + +FROM A CRITICAL REVIEW OF THE POLAR CLAIMS IN A FORTHCOMING BOOK + +By CAPTAIN THOMAS F. HALL of Omaha, Neb. + +DR. COOK'S VALID CLAIM. + +Cook's narrative has been before the public nearly two years. It has +been subject to the most minute scrutiny that invention, talent and +money could give. It is to-day absolutely unscathed. Not one item in it +from beginning to end has been truthfully discredited. It stands +unimpeached. Mud enough has been thrown. Bribery and conspiracy have +done their worst. A campaign of infamy has been waged, and spent its +force; but not one solitary sentence has been proven wrong. Musk-ox +fakes, starved dogs, fictitious astronomical or other calculations may +have some effect on popular opinion; but they have none on the actual +facts. They do not budge the truth a hair's breadth and they do not make +history. + +Cook's claim to the Discovery of the North Pole is as sound and as valid +as the other claims of discovery, or the achievement of any one +preceding him in the Arctic or the Antarctic. + + +VERDICT OF GEN. A. W. GREELY, REAR ADMIRAL W. S. SCHLEY AND OTHER ARCTIC +EXPERTS + +Dr. Cook is the discoverer of the North Pole.--GENERAL A. W. GREELY. + +No one familiar with the Polar problem doubts Dr. Cook's success. Peary +never tried to get to the Pole. He copied Cook's data and then, by +official intrigue tried to "put it over." A study of Peary's deception +on compass variation will prove that.--CLARK BROWN. + +You can prove the discovery of Northermost Land. The Eskimo talk is +nonsense. The Polar discussion should be settled by an International +Commission--PROF. OTTO NORDENSKJOLD. + +Dr. Cook was the first and only man to reach the North Pole--CHAS. E. +RILLIET. + +I have gone over all of Dr. Cook's data, and, in spite of the statements +to the contrary, I believe he reached the Pole.--MAURICE CONNELL. + +It has always been my pleasure to support Dr. Cook. I can see no reason +for doubting his success. Who are his accusers, surely not Arctic +Explorers?--CAPTAIN OTTO SVERDRUP. + +I am convinced that if anyone reached the Pole, Dr. Cook got +there.--ANDREW J. STONE. + +From first to last I have championed Dr. Cook's cause, and after going +over the printed records of both claimants I am doubly convinced that he +reached the Pole.--CAPTAIN EDWARD A. HAVEN. + +Dr. Cook reached the Pole, I doubt Peary, his observations bear the +stamp of inexcusable inaccuracy and bunglesome carelessness. One cannot +read Peary's book and believe in him.--CAPTAIN JOHN MENANDER. + + Washington, D. C., + Jan. 7th, 1911. + + Dear Dr. Cook: + + ... I would assure you that I have never varied in the belief that you + reached the Pole. After reading the published accounts, daily and + critically, of both claimants, I was forced to the conclusion from + their striking similarity that each of you was the eye witness of the + other's success. + + Without collusion it would have been impossible to have written + accounts so similar, and yet in view of the ungracious controversy + that has occurred since that view (collusion) would be impossible + to imagine. + + While I have never believed that either of you got within a pin-point + of the Pole, I have steadfastly held that both got as near the goal + as was possible to ascertain considering the imperfections of the + instruments used and the personal errors of individuals under + circumstances as adverse to absolute accuracy. + + Again I have been broad enough in my views to believe that there was + room enough at the Pole for two; and never narrow enough to believe + that only one man got there. + + I believe that both are entitled to the honor of the achievement. + + Very truly yours, + (Signed) W. S. SCHLEY. + + + + +POSITIVE PROOF OF DR. COOK'S ATTAINMENT OF THE POLE + +BY CAPTAIN EVELYN BRIGGS BALDWIN + + METEOROLOGIST PEARY EXPEDITION, 1893-4, SECOND-IN-COMMAND WELLMAN + EXPEDITION 1898-9, AND ORGANIZER AND LEADER OF THE BALDWIN-ZIEGLER + POLAR EXPEDITION, 1901-2, ETC. + + +I can prove the truth of Dr. Cook's statements in regard to his +discovery of the North Pole from Peary's own official record of his last +dash to the Northward. + +So far as I can learn, Dr. Cook has never made a "confession" in regard +to his trip to the Pole in the sense that he denied his first +statements. He has merely said that, in view of the great difficulty in +determining the exact location of the Pole, he may not have been exactly +upon the northernmost pin-point of the world. Peary, under pressure at +the Congressional investigation, was forced to admit the same. + +For three hundred years there has been a rivalry among civilized men to +be the first to reach the North Pole. I believe that the honor of having +succeeded in the attempt should go--not to Peary--but to the man who +reached the Pole a year before Peary claims to have been there. + +Dr. Cook is now in New York City, and I have talked with him several +times recently. With the information that I myself have gathered, I +believe that he really did reach the Pole, or came so close to that +point that he is entitled to the credit of the Pole's discovery. + +[Illustration: THE LAND-DIVIDED ICE-PACK REPORTED BY PEARY PROVES COOK'S +ATTAINMENT OF THE POLE] + +Bradley Land is located between latitude 84 and 85. It was discovered by +Cook in his Poleward march. The land ice, or glacial ice, which Cook +also discovered, is located between latitude 87 and latitude 88. +Cook's line of march carried him thirty or forty miles to the east of +Bradley Land and then upon the glacial ice. The proximity to the new +land gave Cook a favorable land-protected surface upon which to travel, +and also afforded him protection from gales and from the consequent +movements of the pack-ice westward of the new lands. Cook traveled in +the lee of the groups of islands and over ice floes more stationary than +the ice farther to the east, over which Peary traveled. + + +EVIDENCE OF COOK'S TRAVELS + +A critical examination of Peary's book not only reveals a remarkable +corroboration of Cook's discovery of Bradley Land and the glacial island +north of it, but also seems to indicate the existence of islands farther +west between the same parallels of latitude. + +Referring to page 250, when beyond the 86th parallel, Peary says: "In +this march there was some pretty heavy going. Part of the way was over +some old floes, which had been broken up by many seasons of unceasing +conflict with the winds and tides. Enclosing these more or less level +floes were heavy pressure ridges over which we and the dogs were obliged +to climb." In other words, the floes which Peary describes in this part +of his journey clearly indicate that they were just such floes as one +would expect to find after having passed through a group of islands, +and, therefore, contrasting naturally with the immense size of the floes +which both Cook and Peary traversed north of the 88th parallel. + +Beginning with page 258, we have a most instructive description by Peary +of the ice between the parallels wherein Cook locates the glacial ice +and upon which he traveled for two days. It is such ice as one would +expect to find after having passed around the north and south ends of an +island from forty to sixty miles to the westward. This particular area +Peary designates as a veritable "Arctic Phlegethon," and it is +inconceivable to believe in this Phlegethon without also believing in +the existence of the glacial ice, as located and described by Dr. Cook. +Let us, therefore, examine Peary's narrative minutely. He says, on page +259, "When I awoke the following day, March 28, the sky was apparently +clear; but, ahead of us, was a thick, smoky, ominous haze drifting low +over the ice, and a bitter northeast wind, which, in the orthography of +the Arctic, plainly spelled 'Open Water'...." + +Also, on the same page: "After traveling at a good rate for six hours +along Bartlett's trail, we came upon his camp beside a wide lead, with a +dense black, watery sky to the northwest, north and northeast." + +Again, on page 260: "... The break in the ice had occurred within a foot +of the fastening of one of my dog teams, ... Bartlett's igloo was moving +east on the ice raft, which had broken, and beyond it, as far as the +belching fog from the lead would let us see, there was nothing but black +water." + +Finally, on page 262, Peary says: "This last march had put us well +beyond my record of three years before, probably 87° 12´. The following +day, March 29, was not a happy one for us. Though we were all tired +enough to rest, we did not enjoy picnicing beside this Arctic Phlegethon +which, hour after hour, to the north, northeast and northwest, seemed to +belch black smoke like a prairie fire.... Bartlett made a sounding of +one thousand two hundred and sixty fathoms, but found no bottom." + +In the foregoing we have positive proof that this almost open water area +was not caused by shoals at that immediate point. + +Peary's concern as regards this big hole in the ice-pack is set forth +further on page 265, as follows: "The entire region through which we had +come during the last four marches was full of unpleasant possibilities +for the future. Only too well we knew that violent winds, for only a few +hours, would send the ice all abroad in every direction. Crossing such a +zone on a journey north is only half the problem, for there is always +the return to be figured on. Though the motto of the Arctic must be +'Sufficient unto the day is the evil thereof,' we ardently hoped there +might not be violent winds until we were south of this zone again on the +return." + +From this it is apparent that Peary realized fully the permanent +character of this Phlegethon over which he was traveling. With +astonishing persistency, he refers again and again to this particular +locality. Quoting from page 303, when on his return march, he says: +"There was one region just above the 87th parallel, a region about +fifty-seven miles wide, which gave me a great deal of concern until we +had passed it. Twelve hours of strong wind blowing from any quarter +excepting the north would have turned that region into an open sea. I +breathed a sigh of relief when we left the 87th parallel behind." + +And, as though the Phlegethon had not already been sufficiently +described, on page 307 we find recorded: "Inspired by our good fortune +we pressed on again completing two marches, and when we camped we were +very near the 87th parallel. The entry that I made in my diary that +night is perhaps worth quoting: 'Hope to reach the Marvin Igloo (86° +38´) to-morrow. I shall be glad when we get there on to the big ice +again. This region here was open water during February and the early +part of March and is now covered with young ice which is thoroughly +unreliable as a means of return. A few hours of a brisk wind east, west, +or south, would make this entire region open water for some fifty to +sixty miles north and south, and an unknown extent east and west. Only +calm weather or a northerly wind keeps it practicable.'" + + +ABSOLUTE PROOF OF COOK'S CLAIM + +From the foregoing it is self-evident that Peary's observations by +sextant could not be more corroborative of Cook's latitude than that the +Phlegethon is proof of the existence of a glacial island between the +same two parallels traversed by both explorers. Cook had discovered the +_cause_, and Peary followed to discover the effect of that _cause_. To +one familiar with the conditions of ice-floes in the vicinity of islands +in the Arctic the reasons for this are as clear as it would be to the +lay mind should it be suddenly announced that on a certain date an +astronomer had discovered the head of a comet, which being doubted by +rival investigators, might lead to the unhappy discrediting of the +original discoverer; but should it be as suddenly announced that a rival +astronomer had observed the tail of a comet in the same locality there +would quite certainly follow a reversal of public sentiment. + + +EVIDENCE OF HIS TRAVELS + +Of first importance also in proving the existence of new lands +discovered by Cook is the evidence derived from the existence of animal +life, since Arctic game clings close to the shore line in its search for +food. Birds must find their nesting places on lands. Foxes live upon +birds and the refuse left in the trails of polar bears and seals. Seals +feed upon shrimps and find the chief source of food in waters close to +the land. Polar bears in turn feed upon seals, and necessarily are found +more numerously about lands or islands. + +For this reason we will examine Peary's official narrative of his +journey north for evidence of Dr. Cook's discovery of land to within 2° +of the North Pole. Having noted Dr. Cook's statement relative to the +blow hole of a seal near Bradley Island, we will follow in Peary's trail +for corroboration of Cook's journey eleven months previous, and a +comparatively short distance westward of Peary's line of march. +Referring to Peary's "North Pole" on page 249, while in latitude 85° 48´ +he records: + +"While we were engaged in this business we saw a seal disporting himself +in the open water of the lead." + +Still farther along, when in latitude 86° 13´, Peary states, on page +252: "Along the course of one of those leads we saw the fresh tracks of +a polar bear going west." + + +ANIMAL TRAILS VERIFY COOK'S REPORT + +Arctic travelers will well appreciate the force of this statement +relative to the polar bear, who, scenting the land a few miles to the +westward, was in search of seals. The freshness of the bear's tracks is +proof that it had not drifted on some ice floe from remote parts of the +Arctic basin. + +Again, referring to page 257, we find that Peary while traveling through +deep snow March 28, records: "During the day we saw the tracks of two +foxes in this remote and icy wilderness, nearly two hundred and forty +nautical miles beyond the northern coast of Grant Land." + +It is worthy of note that Peary does not state just how far from the +glacial or land ice upon the submerged island over which Cook traveled +the fox tracks were. But it is evident that the foxes were less than two +sleeps from land, since Peary states that Marvin's observation placed +them in about latitude 86° 38´, the very latitude in which Cook traveled +upon the stationary land ice. + +Still again, page 307, while on his return march and near the 88th +parallel Peary observes: "Here we noticed some fox tracks that had just +been made. The animal was probably disturbed by our approach. These are +the most northerly animal tracks ever seen." + +Certainly. Why not? Since they were so near the northern termination of +the land ice discovered by Dr. Cook. In this connection it is also +important to remark that between latitude 88 and his approximate +approach to the Pole, Dr. Cook makes no mention of animal life, and this +is corroborated by Peary's own statement that he observed no tracks of +animals beyond the 88th parallel. Thus Peary corroborated Cook by the +very absence of animal life in the very region where Cook states he saw +no land. + + +PEARY'S STATEMENTS PROVE COOK'S + +On Peary's return journey he states that as they approached Grant Land +the fresh tracks of foxes and other evidences of animal life were very +numerous. And if the nearness of land was evidenced in this case it is +also clear that the tracks and appearance of animals on his journey in +the high latitudes should be given equal weight as evidence of the +lands discovered by Cook. + +The line of deep sea soundings taken by Peary from Cape Columbia +northward indicates a steady increase in depth to latitude 84° 24´, +where the lead touched bottom at eight hundred and twenty-five fathoms, +until, in latitude 85° 23´, the sounding showed a depth of but three +hundred and ten fathoms. Referring to this, we find that Peary says, on +page 338 of his narrative: "This diminution in depth is a fact of +considerable interest in reference to the possible existence of land to +the westward." + +It seems to me that it is not impertinent to remark that this land to +the westward was scarcely two sleeps distant, as Dr. Cook has +steadfastly maintained. Finally, on page 346, Peary says: "Taking +various facts into consideration it would seem that an obstruction +(lands, islands or shoals) containing nearly half a million square +statute miles probably exists, and another at or near Crocker Land." + + +MORE ACCURATE OBSERVATIONS BY COOK THAN BY PEARY + +And this is all that Dr. Cook claims in his location of land to the +northward of the very Crocker Land to which Peary alludes. + +As to Dr. Cook's and Peary's observations when in the immediate vicinity +of the Pole, I would call attention to the following facts: Cook's +determination by the sextant of the sun's altitude was made April 21, +1908; Peary's final observations were taken April 7 of the following +year. The sun being thus two weeks higher at the time Cook made his +observations, he was able to secure a more accurate series of altitudes, +and this will have an important bearing in substantiation of his claims. + +Considering the difficulty which Peary has had in proving whether he was +at 1.6 miles from the Pole on the Grant Land side or the Bering Strait +side, and whether he was ten or fifteen miles away, I think Dr. Cook was +justified in saying that, although he believed he was at the North +Pole, he is not claiming that he had been exactly at the pin-point of +the North Pole. At any rate, it places Dr. Cook in the position of +endeavoring to tell the truth. + +In this connection I feel like replying to a criticism which Mr. +Grosvenor, editor of the National Geographic Magazine, published over +his own signature immediately following Dr. Cook's return from the Pole. +"Cook's story reads like that of a man who had filled his head with the +contents of a few books on polar expeditions and especially the writings +of Sverdrup." + + +ARMCHAIR CRITICISMS UNFAIR + +Now, since Sverdrup is a real navigator, having accompanied Nansen +during his three years' drift on the Fram, and, following this, having +himself organized and led an expedition during three years to the +westward of Grinnell Land, in the course of which he discovered and +charted, in 1902, Heiberg Land and contiguous islands (which, however, +Peary charted four years later and named Jessup Land), I do not consider +Mr. Grosvenor's armchair criticism of the writings of Capt. Sverdrup and +of Dr. Cook quite in keeping with the principles of a square deal and +fair play. + +Among the reasons which Peary assigns for doubting Dr. Cook is one +pertaining to the original records which Dr. Cook unwillingly left at +Etah. The leaving behind of these papers, according to Peary, was merely +a scheme on Cook's part, so that he might claim they had been lost or +destroyed and thus escape being forced to produce them in substantiation +of his claim. Recently, when I asked Dr. Cook about this, his reply was: +"This does not sound very manly. If this was so in Peary's belief, why +did he not bring them back? Here was absolute proof in his own hands. +Why did he bury it?" + +Armchair geographers and renegades may endeavor to discredit Dr. Cook, +but the seals and polar bears and little foxes will bear testimony of +unimpeachable character to substantiate his claims as the discoverer of +the North Pole. The reading public will not forget that when Paul Du +Chaillu, returning from his expedition to Africa, reported the discovery +of the pigmies, he was denounced as a faker and a liar. For three years +Du Chaillu, as he has told me himself, sought in vain to re-establish +his credibility, and when at the end of that time he succeeded in +bringing some of the pigmies and exhibiting them before the scientific +bodies of the world, then the "doubting Thomases" were obliged to give +him credit as the discoverer of the African dwarfs. The yellow press and +sensation mongers will decry Dr. Cook as they did Du Chaillu, for some +years to come, but Arctic explorers endorse him to-day. + +Rear Admiral W. S. Schley, General A. W. Greely, Captain Otto Sverdrup, +Captain Roald Amundsen, and all the world's greatest explorers have +indorsed Dr. Cook. + +I have seen Dr. Cook's original field notes, his observations, and the +important chapters of his book, wherein his claim is presented in such a +way that the scientific world must accept it as the record and the proof +of the greatest geographic accomplishment of modern times. + +Putting aside the academic and idle argument of pin-point accuracy--the +North Pole has been honestly reached by Dr. Cook 350 days before anyone +else claimed to have been there. + + (Signed) EVELYN BRIGGS BALDWIN. + + + + +VERDICT OF THE GEOGRAPHIC HISTORIAN + +DR. COOK'S RECORD IS ACCURATE IT IS CERTIFIED--IT IS CORROBORATED + +HE IS THE DISCOVERER OF THE NORTH POLE + +By EDWIN SWIFT BALCH + +(From the N. Y. Tribune, April 14, 1913) + + +Which was it: Cook or Peary? Who discovered the North Pole? Everybody +thought the question had been settled long ago, but now comes an eminent +geographer and explorer, who says, over his name, that both got to the +"Big Nail," and that it was the Brooklyn doctor who did it first. And in +defense of his belief he cites chapter and verse, and uses Peary's own +story to prove that his hated rival it was who first stood at the top of +the earth, "where every one of the cardinal points is South." + +The intrepid defender of Cook is Edwin Swift Balch, fellow of the +Association for the Advancement of Science, member of the Wyoming +Historical and Geological Society, the Franklin Institute, American +Philosophical, American Geographical and Royal Geographical Societies, +writer on arctic, antarctic geographical and ethnological topics for the +learned societies of the world. Dr. Balch lives at No. 1412 Spruce +street, Philadelphia, and the title of his book, just published by +Campion & Co., of Philadelphia, is "The North Pole and Bradley Land." + + +"ALL TRAVELLERS CALLED LIARS" + +"From time immemorial travellers have been called liars," says Mr. Balch +in a chapter devoted to "travellers who were first doubted and afterward +vindicated," and it is on this general assumption of their +Munchausen-like proclivities that much of the weight of argument +depends. But most of all the truthfulness of the doctor's assertion that +on April 21, 1908, he and his two Eskimo boys, E-tuk-i-shook and +Ah-we-lah, reached the goal and "were the only pulsating creatures in a +dead world of ice," is shown by the fact that conditions reported by +Cook as existing there were corroborated by Peary. + +"The man who breaks into the unknown may say what he chooses and present +such astronomical observations as he sees fit," says Mr. Balch, "but his +proof rests on his word. But if the next traveller corroborated the +discoverer, instantly the first man's statements are immeasurably +strengthened. + +"To solve such a problem as that of who discovered the North Pole, this +comparative method seems to the writer the only one available. It is not +a matter of belief, it is a matter of comparison and reasoning. It is +not the evidence which Cook produces _which in itself alone could prove +Cook's claims_. It is the geographical evidence offered by both Cook and +Peary, which, when carefully compared, affords, in the writer's +judgment, the only means of arriving at a conclusion. It is Peary's +statements and observations which prove, as far as can be proved at +present, Cook's statements." + + +ALL DISCOVERERS FIRST DOUBTED + +The writer then mentions a score of the great discoverers and explorers +of history who have been defamed and berated by their contemporaries, +yet whose achievements have in time proved them to be truth tellers. +Marco Polo, "greatest of mediaeval travellers, was generally +discredited." Amerigo Vespucci "to this day remains under a cloud for +things he did not do." Fernao Mendes Pinto, Nathaniel B. Palmer, Robert +Johnson, James Weddell, von Drygalski, Nordenskjold, Bruce, Charcot, Dr. +Krapf, Dr. Robmann, Du Chaillu, Stanley, Livingstone, Colter, all have +been reviled as fabricators, yet all have been honored by those who came +later, he says. + +"There are three records of Dr. Cook's journey of 1908," says the +writer. "Cook's first announcement was a long cablegram sent from +Lerwick, Shetland Islands, and published in the 'New York Herald' of +September 2, 1909. The full original narrative was sent immediately +after this and published in the 'New York Herald' between September 15 +and October 7, 1909, with the title 'The Conquest of the Pole.' + +"_Both of these were written and sent before Cook could, by any +possibility, have seen or heard of any of the results of Peary's last +expedition._ + +The third record is Cook's book "My Attainment of the Pole," which is +simply an enlargement on the earlier story. + + +COOK MUST HAVE BEEN FIRST + +The point here emphasized is that Cook could not have had anything on +which to base his description of conditions north of 83:20 north +latitude, and as his description agreed with that later given by Peary, +there could be no doubt that Cook was there first. + +"The reason for this is that these statements can be based on nothing +but Cook's own observations," says Mr. Balch, "for Cook started for +Denmark from South Greenland before Peary started for Labrador from +North Greenland, and therefore everything Cook stated or wrote or +published immediately after his arrival in Europe must be based on what +Cook observed or experienced himself. + +"_Cook's original narrative stands on its own merits; it is the first +and most vital proof of Cook's veracity, and yet it has passed almost +unnoticed._ + +The points on which the two accounts, Cook's and Peary's, of conditions +at 90 degrees north agree most fundamentally, and hence most definitely +establish the truthfulness of Cook, are first the "account of the land +sighted in 84:20 north to 85:11 north (Bradley Land). The second is the +glacial land ice in 87-88 degrees north. The third is the account of the +discovery of the North Pole and the description of the ice at the North +Pole." + + +COOK'S THREE ACHIEVEMENTS + +Cook's first great discovery, the writer holds, was Bradley Land, named +after his friend and backer. This land, Cook declared, had a great +crevasse in it, making it appear like two islands, the southerly one +starting at 84:20 north. Peary made no mention of land north of 83:20 +north. + +"Whether there is land or water in the intervening sixty geographical +miles is a problem," says the writer, "but in order to be perfectly fair +to both explorers and to allow for errors in observation one might split +the difference at 83:50 north and consider that latitude as a dividing +line between the lands discovered respectively by Cook and Peary." + +"The second important discovery of Cook's is the glacial land ice in 87 +north to 87 north-88 north," says the writer. "A closely similar +occurrence was observed by Peary on his 1906 trip in about 86 north, 60 +west." + +But the most important particular in which the two men agree, in the +mind of Mr. Balch, is in their description of the ice at the pole. Cook +reported that it was "a smooth sheet of level ice." The writer adds: "if +that description of the North Pole is accurate, the writing of it by +Cook, first of all men, on the face of it is proof that Cook is the +discoverer of the North Pole." + + +THE SNOW WAS PURPLE + +But not only was the ice at the pole smooth and level, but the snow +there was "purple" in the story of Cook, a detail in which he is again +borne out by Peary. + +"Purple snow," says the writer, "is a linguistic expression, an attempt +to suggest with words what Frank Wilbert Stokes has done with paints in +his superb pictures of the polar regions. Hence," he says, "the use of +the word 'purple' by Dr. Cook, who is not a trained artist, proves that +he has the eye of an impressionist painter and that he is an extremely +accurate observer of his surroundings.... + +That Cook's description is accurate is in the next place certified to by +Peary. Peary corroborates Cook absolutely about conditions enroute to +the North Pole; and Cook is corroborated by Peary, not only by what +Peary saw, but by what Peary did. If there was anything in the Western +Arctic between the North Pole and 87:47 north but 'an endless field of +purple snows,' smooth and slippery, Peary could not have covered the +intervening 133 geographical miles in two days and a few hours. Peary, +therefore, from observation and from actual physical performance proves +that Cook's most important statement is true." + +The evidence is thus examined, step by step. The statements of the two +men are compared, word by word, and this is the conclusion reached: + +"In view of all these facts it becomes certain that Cook must have +written his description of the North Pole from his own observations, for +until Cook actually traversed the Western Arctic between 88 degrees +north and the North Pole, and told the world the facts, no one could +have said whether in that area there was land or sea, nor have stated +anything of the conditions of its ice, with its unusual, perhaps unique, +flat surface. + +"But Cook, in his first cable dispatch, stated definitely and positively +and finally that at the North Pole there was no land, but sea, frozen +over into smooth ice, and Peary confirmed Cook's statements. + +"Cook was accurate, and the only possible inference is that Cook was +accurate because Cook knew; and the further inevitable conclusion is +that since Cook knew, Cook had been at the North Pole." + +(_Ed._) In personal letters Balch further says, "I have tried to look at +it as if this were the year 2013, and all of us in heaven.... It is only +a question of time till Dr. Cook is recognized as the discoverer of the +North Pole." + + + + +FOR A NATIONAL INVESTIGATION + +A REQUEST + +By DR. FREDERICK A. COOK + + +For three years I have sought in various ways to bring about a National +investigation of the relative merits of the Polar Attainment and the +unjust propaganda of distrust which followed. Such an investigation +would do no harm if the original work and the later criticism has been +done in good faith. Why has it been refused? To take the ground that it +is a private matter and that the Government has taken no official part +in the Polar race is to assume a false position. The injustice of this +evasive policy is brought out in my telegram to former President +Taft--and again in my letter to President Wilson. To compel such an +investigation and to appoint Arctic explorers as National experts has +been my main mission on the platform. Much against my will I have been +forced to adopt the usual political tactics of getting to the voters to +force action by Congress and the official circles of Washington. + +When in 1911 the bill was introduced in Congress to retire Peary as a +Rear Admiral with a pension, I supposed that this would automatically +bring about a thorough scientific examination of the merits of the rival +Polar claims. And such an investigation I then believed would surely +bring about the only reward I have ever claimed--The appreciation of my +fellow countrymen. It was however, as I learned later, a bold Pro-Peary +movement fostered by lobbyists whose conscience was eased by drippings +from the Hubbard-Bridgeman Arctic Trust, but I still believed that the +dictates of National prestige were such that the usual white-washing and +rail-roading process could not be adopted in a question of such +International importance. I did not begrudge Mr. Peary a pension if +honest methods were pursued to adjust the bitterly fought contention in +the eyes of the world. My friends made no protest in Congress. As +matters progressed, however, I saw that such men as Prof. Willis Moore +and others of his kind--men I had previously trusted as honest, really +proved themselves, double-faced, political back-scratchers. Then I +changed my tactics. When one's honor is bartered by thieves under the +guise of friends--and when these thieves are part of a government from +which justice is expected--Then one is bound to uncover the leprous +spots of one's accusers. I am glad to note that Prof. Moore, the +President of the National Geographic Society, has since been exposed as +being too crooked to fit into a berth of the present administration. +There are others whose long fingers have been in the Polar-pie who will +also meet their fate as time exposes their flat-heads. + +To call a halt on this National Humbug where only official chair-warmers +and political crooks served as experts, I sent the following telegram to +former President Taft: + + +COPY OF TELEGRAM SENT TO FORMER PRESIDENT TAFT + + Omaha, Neb., March 4, 1911 + The President--The White House, + Washington, D. C. + + When you sign the Peary bill you are honoring a man with sin-soiled + hands who has taken money from our innocent school children. A part of + this money I believe was used to make Arctic concubines comfortable. I + am ready to produce others of the same opinion. Thus for twenty years + while in the pay of the navy, supplied with luxuries from the public + purse, Peary has enjoyed, apparently with National consent, the + privilege denied the Mormons. + + There are at least two children now in the cheerless north crying for + bread and milk and a father. These are growing witnesses of Peary's + leprous character. Will you endorse it? + + By endorsing Peary you are upholding the cowardly verdict of Chester, + Tittman and Gannett, who bartered their souls to Peary's interests by + suppressing the worthlessness of the material upon which they passed. + These men on the Government pay-roll have stooped to a dishonor that + should make all fair-minded people blush with shame. This underhanded + performance calls for an investigation. Will you close these dark + chamber doings to the light of justice? + + In this bill you are honoring one, who in seeking funds for legitimate + exploration, has passed the hat along the line of easy money for + twenty years. Much of this money was in my judgment used to promote a + lucrative fur and ivory trade, while the real effort of getting to the + pole was delayed seemingly for commercial gain. Thus engaged in a + propaganda of hypocrisy he stooped to immerality and dishonor and + ultimately when his game of fleecing the public was threatened, he + tried to kill a brother explorer. The stain of at least two other + lives is on this man. This bill covers a page in history against + which the spirits of murdered men cry for redress. + + Peary is covered with the scabs of unmentionable indecency, and for + him your hand is about to put the seal of clean approval upon the + dirtiest campaign of bribery, conspiracy and black-dishonor that the + world has ever known. + + If you can close your eyes to this, sign the Peary bill. + + (Signed) FREDERICK A. COOK + + +The telegram was received but not acknowledged--the Peary bill was +signed. But the false assumption of Peary's "Discovery of the Pole" was +eliminated from the bill. There is therefore no National endorsement of +Peary; though he was given an evasive Old Age Pension which the +newspapers quoted incorrectly as an official recognition of Peary's +claim to polar priority. + +I now appeal to President Wilson and the present administration to make +some official endeavor to clear our National emblem of the stain of the +envious Polar contention. To that end I have written the following +letter: + + +AN APPEAL TO PRESIDENT WILSON + +(COPY OF A LETTER) + + Chicago, May 1, 1913 + + Honored Sir: + + I appeal to you to forward a movement which will adjust in the eyes + of the world the contention regarding the rival Polar claims. The + American Eagle has spread its wings of glory over the world's top. It + would seem to be a National duty to determine officially whether there + is room for one or two under those wings. + + The graves of our worthy ancestors are marks in the ascent of the + ladder of latitudes. Hundreds of lives, millions of dollars, have been + sacrificed in the quest of the Pole. The success at last attained has + lifted the United States to the first ranks as a Nation of Scientific + Pioneers. Every true American has quivered with an extra thrill of + pride with the knowledge that the unknown boreal center has been + pierced and that the stars and stripes have been put to the virgin + breezes of the North Pole. The unjustified and ungracious controversy + which followed has wounded our National honor; it has left a stain + upon our flag. Is it not, therefore, our duty as a Nation to dispel + the cloud of contention resting over the glory of Polar attainment? + + I have given twenty years to the life-sapping task of Polar + exploration--all without pay--all for the benefit of future man. + Returning--asking for nothing, expecting only brotherly appreciation + of my fellow countrymen, I am compelled to face an unjust battle of + political intrigues by men in the pay of the Government. My effort now + is not for money nor for a pension, but to defend my honor and that of + my family. The future of my children demands an exposition of the + unfair methods of the arm-chair geographers in Washington. However, + I do not ask the administration to defend me or my posterity, but do + ask that the men who draw a salary from the National treasury be made + answerable for a propaganda of character assassination, among these + is Prof. Willis Moore and others of the so-called National Geographic + Society. + + The National Geographic Society with Prof. Moore as President is + responsible for the false interpretation of the rival Polar claims. + This society is a private organization used mostly for political + purposes; for two dollars per year a college professor or a + street-sweeper becomes with equal facility a "national geographer." + It is, therefore, not "national" nor "geographic," and when this + society poses as a scientific body, it is an imposition upon American + intelligence, and yet it is this society, with the well-known + political trickery of Prof. Moore, which has attempted to decide for + the world the merits of Polar attainment. An investigation of the + wrong doings of this society will quickly bring to light the + injustice of the Polar controversy. + + A commission of Polar explorers appointed by National authority will + end for all times the problem of the rival Polar claims. There is an + abundance of material on both sides by which such a commission could + come to a reasonable conclusion. The general impression that the Polar + contention has been scientifically determined is not true. There has + been no real investigation into either claim. Such an investigation + could only be made by Arctic explorers, and to bring about this end I + would suggest the appointment of an International Commission of such + men as General A. W. Greely, U. S. A., Captain Otto Sverdrup of Norway + and Professor Georges Lecointe of Belgium. Their decision would be + accepted everywhere. Greely and Sverdrup have each spent four years in + the very region under discussion, and Lecointe is the Secretary of the + International Bureau for Polar Research and also director of the Royal + Observatory of Belgium. Such men will render a decision free from + personal bias, free from National prejudice and their verdict will be + accepted by the Nations of the world. + + Though I am an interested party I insist that my appeal is not + altogether a personal one. In the interest of that deep-seated + American sense of fair play, in the interest of National honor, in + the interest of the glory of our flag, it would seem to be a National + duty to have the distrust of the Polar attainment cleared by an + International commission. + + Respectfully submitted, + (Signed) FREDERICK A. COOK + To the President, + The White House, + Washington, D. C. + +Thousands of requests similar to those reproduced below have gone to +various officials in Washington. Such appeals demand action. + + Chicago, May 7, 1913 + Mr. Josephus Daniels, Secretary of the Navy, + Washington, D. C. + + Dear Sir: + + Rear Admiral Peary wears the stripes of the Navy, he is drawing + a pension of $6,000.00 per year from the tax-payers--The National + dictates of honor compel such a man to be clean morally--honest + and upright officially. Dr. Cook has publicly made charges against + Peary which relegate this Naval Officer to the rank of a common + thief and degenerate. In his book, "My Attainment of the Pole," + (Mitchell-Kennedy, N. Y.) there are specific charges made which call + for an investigation. These charges have remained unanswered for + three years--Why? + + In the Polar controversy the flag has been dragged through muck, and + this dishonor seems to rest upon a man for whose actions you are + responsible. + + The American people have a right to demand an investigation into the + intrigue of the Peary Polar Propaganda, and as one believing in + justice at the bar of public opinion, I ask that you take steps to + clear this cloud in the eyes of the world. + + Respectfully, + FRED HIGH + Editor of _The Platform_, + The Lyceum and Chautauqua Magazine, + Steinway Hall, Chicago. + + + Chicago, May 22, 1913. + To Congressman James R. Mann, + Washington, D. C. + + Dear Sir: + + The conquest of the North Pole has lifted the United States to a first + position as a Nation of scientific pioneers. The controversy which + followed is a blot on our flag and it is a slur at our National honor. + From the Government purse and from private resources we have spent + millions to reach the top of the earth; it would appear therefore to + be our duty as a Nation to adjust the Polar contention in the eyes of + the world. + + If Dr. Cook has reached the Pole, a year earlier than Peary, as most + Arctic explorers believe, then the seeming endorsement and the pension + of the Naval officer is an injustice to Dr. Cook and an imposition on + the public; if both have reached the Pole then there should be a + suitable recognition and reward extended to each. As one of thousands + of American citizens, I beg of you to forward a movement which will + bring about a National investigation into this problem, with a + suitable provision for a proper recognition. + + Respectfully, + CHARLES W. FERGUSON, + Pres., + The Chautauqua Managers Association, + Orchestra Bldg., Chicago. + + + + +CAN THE GOVERNMENT ESCAPE THE RESPONSIBILITY? + +BY FRED HIGH + + +While the Danes were royally entertaining Dr. Cook on September 4th, +1909, telegrams were being showered upon him by all the world. The King +of Sweden sent this message: + +"A BRILLIANT DEED, OF WHICH THE AMERICAN PEOPLE MAY RIGHTLY BE PROUD." + +The American minister to Denmark made Dr. Cook's visit state business +and joined in the effort to share Cook's honors. Dr. Cook paused in the +midst of all this splendor to cable the following message to our +President: + + Copenhagen, Sept. 4, 1909. + President, + The White House, Washington. + + I have the honor to report to the chief magistrate of the United + States that I have returned, having reached the North Pole." + +To which President Taft cabled the following reply: + + Beverly, Mass., Sept. 4, 1909. + Frederick A. Cook, + Copenhagen, Denmark. + + Your dispatch received. Your report that you have reached the North + Pole calls for my heartiest congratulations, and stirs the pride of + all Americans that this feat which has so long baffled the world has + been accomplished by the intelligent energy and wonderful endurance + of a fellow countryman." + WILLIAM H. TAFT. + +Was President Taft speaking for the American people when he called Dr. +Cook's achievement the pride of all Americans? Were we ready to share +Cook's joys? Share his honors? If so, then in all fairness, should we +not share in his trials and tribulations? Are we like the crazy base +ball fan who cheers a pitching hero when he wins and insults him with +all kinds of vile epithets when he loses? + +For one I shared in that thrill of pride and was glad to know that I +had had dealings with Dr. Cook before he went in search of the Pole, +consequently, I felt in honor bound to withhold any hasty criticisms +that I might feel tempted to hurl at Dr. Cook. All who joined in his +praises should insist upon it that he be given a chance to disprove +every charge that has been brought against him, that he be given a +chance to explain his every act before we join in the cry to crucify +him. "Crucify him, or give us the most contemptible coward, moral leper +and political crook that has lived in our time," if Dr. Cook's charges +are true. + +Believing that this is a matter that ought to be fairly settled by +competent and orderly methods, I have written to several congressmen and +senators, and the following correspondence speaks for itself: + + Chicago, Illinois, May 7, 1913. + Hon. Wooda N. Carr, + Washington, D. C. + + Dear Sir: + + I wish to ask a personal favor of you, one that I think the public is + interested in and one that I think the world ought to know more about. + It is the Cook-Peary controversy. I have given this considerable + thought and study. I have heard Dr. Cook lecture a number of times and + have talked to him personally and tried to find out from every angle + the facts as to whether or not his story is true. So far I have been + unable to find a flaw in any of his statements, and Mr. Peary by his + actions has given every evidence that Dr. Cook is telling the truth. + Therefore, as a citizen who is interested in the larger affairs of + this country, and as the editor of The Platform, which is devoted to + the Lyceum and Chautauqua movement, I am asking whether or not it + would be compatible with fair play and our sense of justice and real + national dignity to take this controversy out of the hands of + individuals and settle it by an official tribunal, or by a commission + of arctic explorers. + + I shall be very glad, indeed, if you will inform me of what steps + could best be taken to bring about the settlement of this controversy. + If there are any authoritative facts developed along this line, I will + be glad to know where to locate them as my sole object is to learn the + truth. + + Under separate cover I am sending you copy of The Platform which + contains Doctor Cook's letter to President Wilson, which I hope you + will read. + Yours very truly, + (Signed) FRED HIGH. + + + House of Representatives, U. S. + Washington, D. C., May 13, 1913. + Mr. Fred High, + 602 Steinway Hall, + Chicago, Ill. + + Dear Sir: + + Your letter of the 7th inst., regarding the Cook-Peary controversy, + received. I do not think it would be possible to get Congress to + interfere in this matter. It is a question of little concern to many + who discovered the Pole, or whether it was discovered at all. It seems + to be a personal matter, the settlement of which should be determined + by the persons interested. + Very truly yours, + (Signed) WOODA N. CARR. + +Is it a matter of no concern whether or not the North Pole has been +discovered? Is it a matter of no concern whether a man can fake a story +about having discovered the North Pole, receive the homage of the world, +fleece the American public out of thousands of dollars for fees to hear +his lecture and go unpunished? If Dr. Cook has hoaxed the world as so +many have charged him with having done, this is more than a private +matter. + +If Dr. Cook has discovered the North Pole, are we acting the part of +fellow countrymen by shirking our duty? Shall Congress say that the +clique at Washington either make good its charges against Dr. Cook, or +be made to retract and stand disgraced in the eyes of the world? We +shared Cook's honors. Will we shirk when he calls upon his countrymen +for a square deal? + +The following letter was received from Senator Miles Poindexter and +should be carefully studied: + +United States Senate, Committee on Expenditures in the War Department. + + Washington, D. C. May 9, 1913. + Mr. Fred High, Editor, + The Platform, 602 Steinway Hall, + 64 E. Van Buren St., + Chicago, Illinois. + + My dear Mr. High: + + I have yours of 7th inst., and was very much pleased to know that you + are interested in securing a fair examination, officially if possible, + into Dr. Cook's claims of discovery. + + Ever since the Cook-Peary controversy began, I have paid more or less + close attention to the questions involved therein. I have talked with + a number of residents around the neighborhood of Mt. McKinley, Alaska, + some of whom are friendly and some unfriendly to Dr. Cook; have read + with great care Dr. Cook's book describing his polar expedition; and + have followed through the newspapers and otherwise the various phases + of the controversy and happenings in connection therewith. As a + lawyer, I have always been especially interested in the study of the + credibility of witnesses, the weight of evidence; and in deducing + logical conclusions therefrom. From the careful consideration of the + comparative character of the witnesses for and against Dr. Cook, their + motives, and the attitude and hearing throughout the controversy of + Cook and Peary themselves, I have a very fixed and firm conviction + that Dr. Cook's story is true. I believe the majority of the people of + the country who are interested in the subject are of the same opinion. + + From my observation of the miserable petty cliques and factional + squabbles in official circles of the Government, such for instance + as the Sampson-Schley controversy and innumerable smaller disputes, + I have long ago ceased to accept, as necessarily correct, official + evidence merely because it is official. + + I have not yet seen a copy of The Platform containing Dr. Cook's + letter to President Wilson which you say you are forwarding me under + separate cover, and when received will read it with much interest. + Not having read it, I do not know just what plan Dr. Cook proposes for + an official investigation. I will be glad however, to learn the basis + upon which it is proposed to make the test an official investigation. + It occurs to me that it is entirely a private matter and that the + Government officially has nothing to do with it. Every man has as much + right as any other man to form a conclusion in the case; public + opinion, if the facts can be presented to the public, is the best + judgment. I would be apprehensive of submitting the absolute + determination of the question to an official tribunal for the reasons, + among others, which I have mentioned above. However, will be glad to + learn further as stated of the proposal. + + With kind regards. + Very truly yours, + (Signed) MILES POINDEXTER. + +Senator Poindexter's letter is a stricture on official Washington that +ought to cause every true patriot to blush with shame. Are we at the +point where even an impartial investigation can not be had into the +controversy as to who discovered the North Pole? + +There are thousands who believe this is a question that touches our +national honor and therefore is a rightful subject for a Congressional +Investigation. Those who believe this, ought to write to their +representatives at Washington and urge such action as will lay the +facts before the world. + + * * * * * + +The following letter from Hon. Champ Clark is worthy of much +consideration as it reveals the real status of this controversy as it +exists in official circles. + +Dr. Cook is a private citizen with no Cook Arctic club to back him and +share his gains. No National Geographical Society helped to finance his +venture with the hope of managing his lectures as a sort of bureau +graft. He is a private citizen. + +Speaker Clark's letter furnishes us with the reason for asking Congress +to take a hand in this affair for it shows how ready our statesmen are +to give ear when the people speak: + + THE SPEAKER'S ROOM + HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES + + WASHINGTON, D. C. + + May 10, 1913. + Mr. Fred High, + Editor of The Platform, + Chicago, Illinois. + + My dear Mr. High: + + I have your letter touching the Cook-Peary controversy. I note what + you say. I do not see clearly what it is that you are suggesting. That + is, whether you want Congress to formulate some plan to determine the + matter by appointing a commission of Arctic explorers, or exactly what + it is that you do want. + + Of course, I do not know very much about Arctic explorations and do + not set a very high store on them as I never could understand what + sort of good would come of locating the North Pole. I am a good deal + of a utilitarian, and am a disciple of the Baconian philosophy rather + than of the philosophy of Aristotle and the Greek school. To tell the + truth, I have always had a hazy sort of an idea that both Cook and + Peary discovered the North Pole. I have not valued my opinion highly + enough to undertake to exploit it or to induce anybody else to believe + it as I have enough other matters on hand to employ the time and + attention of one man. + + Wishing you success, I am + Your friend, + (Signed) CHAMP CLARK + +The following opinion of the men on the Chautauqua platform is +attributed to our good friend from Missouri: + + "The Chautauqua has been a powerful force in directing the political + thought of the country, which is largely sociological in these + latter days. I approve the Chautauqua lecturers, with whom I have + been associated, because they constitute as fine a group of men and + women as can be found among the splendid citizenship of America. I + have a deep and abiding interest in them, and bid them a hearty + godspeed in their work." + +Dr. Cook is perhaps the leading Chautauqua lecturer of the present +season. He is now booked to appear at seventy Chautauquas this Summer +and it is certain that even the genial Speaker of the House wouldn't +want to associate with a man who would hoax the world for gain. +Certainly he wouldn't want "The greatest liar of the Century" to be one +of the powerful forces directing the political thoughts of the Century. +If Dr. Cook discovered the North Pole he should be given the credit for +that great achievement. + +We certainly have a right to see to it that neither Dr. Cook nor Mr. +Peary are treated as though they were the scum of the earth. Dr. Cook +has brought charges against Mr. Peary as a Naval officer. He still +brings these charges, and he should be made to prove them. Peary, an +officer of the Navy, has brought charges against Cook and he should be +made to prove them. + +Mr. Peary is an officer of our navy, drawing an old age pension. His +position is such that he cannot ignore Dr. Cook's open charges. He is +honor bound to protect the good name of this great country by asking an +investigation of these charges. To remain silent, is to stand to be +branded as the arch-degenerate of our day. Don't forget it was he who +opened up the mud batteries and caused this undignified controversy. + +No honorable man can allow such open charges of gross immorality as Dr. +Cook preferred against Mr. Peary in his telegram to President Taft. +These have been printed in magazines and newspapers as well as appearing +in Dr. Cook's books, now in the sixtieth thousand edition. + +Here in Illinois press stories of improper conduct implicating +Lieutenant-Governor Barrett O'Hara were circulated and he immediately +asked the state legislature to investigate them. The legislature +appointed a committee that took testimony and reported these stories +were groundless and false. + +Is a retired Admiral less important in the eyes of the world than the +Lieutenant-Governor of Illinois, or has the "old tar" taken an immunity +bath? + +Are we any farther along than were those who put Columbus in chains and +stoned the Prophets and nailed the Christ to the Cross? Are we so +engrossed in the material things that all questions of honor are of no +concern to us? + +It is true that the bar of public opinion is the court of last resort in +a real democracy, but it is equally true that it is essential to see +that the source of public opinion be not polluted. Should our school +children be taught that Peary discovered the Pole if Dr. Cook was there +first? + +Senator Robert M. LaFollette says: "You can't buy, you can't subsidize +the Lyceum. At least, it never has been done. The Press has been +subsidized. Papers and magazines which were printing the bad records of +public officials and political parties have, in many instances, been +forced out of the field or silenced. Special privilege organized as a +System has its own press. + +But the Lyceum platform is free. Really, I sometimes think that, from +the days of Wendell Phillips to now, the Lyceum has pretty nearly been +the salvation of the country." + +The Lyceum and the Chautauqua have given Dr. Cook a fair hearing, and it +is now a matter of National pride that when the press was silent or +hostile, Congress indifferent, the Chautauqua, the one distinctively +American institution, gave him an honest, impartial hearing. + + * * * * * + +I write as I do because, being the editor of The Lyceum and Chautauqua +Magazine, I have tried to give Dr. Cook the same opportunity to present +his case as I would expect him to do by me were I in his place and he in +mine. + +AFTER YOU HAVE READ THIS BOOK KINDLY WRITE YOUR CONGRESSMAN CALLING FOR +AN INVESTIGATION. + + + + +INDEX + + + Acpohon, Trail Along, 183; + "The Land of Guillemots," 191 + + Acponie Island, 50 + + Adams, Captain, 458; + Peary Suppressed Letter Presented by, 459, 487, 489 + + Advance Bay, 106 + + Ah-tah, Turns Away Ma-nee, 58 + + Ah-we-lah, Told Bartlett That Observations Were Made, 13, 189; + Chosen for Dash to Pole, 196; + Sure of Nearness of Land, 225, 230, 269, 270, 284, 293, 307, 327, + 335; + Prevents Boat From Sinking, 366, 385, 399; + Recounts Remarkable Journey to the Pole, 452 + + Ahwynet, 96 + + Alaskan Wilds, 29 + + Alexander, Cape, 65, 117, 122, 152 + + Al-leek-ah, 95 + + American Legation, 469 + + Amund Ringnes Land, 329 + + Anderson, Mr., 460 + + Annoatok, 25; + Supplies Stored at, 30; + Started for, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71; + First Day at, 75; + Erected a House of Packing Boxes at, 76, 79, 83, 84, 85, 104, 110, + 117, 152, 157, 194, 195, 226, 312, 336, 379, 437, 442, 443, + 447, 451, 456 + + Antarctic Exploration, 28 + + Arctic, Bradley, Expedition, 24, 27 + + Arctic Circle Crossed, 34 + + Armbruster, Professor W. F., Defense of Dr. Cook by, 490 + + Armour of Chicago, Food Supplies by, 135 + + Arthur Land, 191 + + Ashton, J. M., 526, 530 + + Astrup, Eivind, Death of, 38, 511, 515, 560 + + Atholl, Cape, Sailed Around, 46 + + Auckland, Cape, 60 + + Auks, 62 + + Auroras, 112 + + Axel Heiberg Land, 193, 194, 201, 212, 246, 327, 329, 333 + + + Bache Peninsula, Headed for, 158, 435 + + Baffin's Bay, 362 + + Baldwin, Captain Evelyn B., 135, 540, 564 + + Baldwin-Zeigler, Cache of Supplies Left by, 203 + + Bancroft Bay, 103 + + Bangor, 483 + + Barrill Affidavit, 13, 14, 522, 523, 524 + + Bartlett, Capt. Robt. A., Learns from Eskimos That Observations Were + Made, 13; + Assisted Peary in His Lies, 485, 558, 560, 562. + + Bathurst Land, 337 + + Battle Harbor, Arrival at, 31; + Questions Prepared by Peary at, 483, 489, 557 + + Bay, Baffin's, 362; + Bancroft, 103; + Braebugten, 358, 377; + Buchanan, 77; + Cannon, 162; + Dallas, 103, 104; + Flagler, 154, 161, 168; + Melville, 38; + Entered, 39, 42, 44, 45; + North Star, 46; + Anchored in, 50, 462; + Olrick's, 59, 63; + Pioneer, 314; + Robertson, 63; + Sontag, 451 + + Bay Fiord, Overland to, 162, 168 + + Bear Hunting, 177, 184, 189, 432 + + Belcher Point, Passed, 361, 362 + + Belgian Antarctic Expedition, 28, 497 + + Belle Isle, Straits of, Entering, 31 + + Bennett, James Gordon, Cable to, 464, 465; + Selling Narrative Story to, 491, 492, 493 + + Bernier, Captain, 448, 516 + + Berri, Herbert, 502 + + Berry, Robert M., 478 + + "Big Lead," Peary's Eskimos Become Panic-Stricken at, 11; + Dr. Cook Reaches the Shores of, 217; + Crossing the, 221, 222, 224, 250 + + "Big Nail," 85, 243 + + Blethen, J., 527 + + Bonsall Island, 106 + + Booth Sound, 453 + + Borup, George, 485, 486 + + Bradley, John R., Compact Made for Expedition, 24; + Expedition, 29; + Join Party, 31; + Called to Action, 51; + Assumed Direction, 53; + Shoots Duck, 54, 537 + + "_Bradley, John R._," S. S., Sailed July 3, 1907, 23; + Going Northward, 28; + Aboard the, 30; + Sailing Qualities of the, 31 + + Bradley Land, 246, 249; + Positive Proof of, 251 + + Braebugten Bay, 358, 377 + + Breton, Cape, 30 + + Bridgeford, 527 + + Bridgman, Herbert L., Kitchen Explorer, 13, 77, 78, 502, 529, 557 + + Bridges, Thomas, Yahgan Dictionary, 497, 498 + + Brooklyn Dairy Business, 27 + + Brooke's Island, 106 + + Brown, Belmore, 524 + + Buchanan Bay, 77 + + Bushwick Club, 481 + + + Cairn Point, Passed, 68 + + Camped for the Winter, 393 + + Cannon Bay, 162 + + Cannon Fiord, 203 + + Cape Alexander, Passed, 65, 117, 122, 152; + Athol, Sailed Around, 46; + Auckland, 60; + Breton, 30; + Clarence, 429; + Faraday, 429, 430; + Hatherton, 167; + Inglefield, 68; + Isabella, 428; + Louis Napoleon, 435; + Paget, 428; + Parry, 59; + Robertson, Proceeded to, 61, 62; + Rutherford, 159; + Sabine, Note Left at, 149, 150, 154, 157, 158, 161, 336, 426, 431; + Tragedies of, 433, 434; + Seiper, 103; + Sheridan, 78; + Sparbo, 344, 355, 357, 363, 364, 377, 378, 413, 497; + Tennyson, 427, 428, 429; + "Thomas Hubbard," 201; + Veile, 154, 161; + Vera, 343, 352, 353; + York, 44, 454, 455 + + Cardigan Strait, 350 + + Caribou Hunting, 109 + + Chester, Rear-Admiral, 502, 543, 544 + + Christiansaand, 476 + + Clarence, Cape, 429 + + Coast and Geodetic Survey, 488 + + Coburg Island, 428 + + Cold, Director, 477 + + Columbus, Christopher, 7 + + Conger, Fort, Party Left by Peary to Die of Cold and Hunger at, 454 + + Congress, Investigation of, Admission of Peary Witnesses in, 15, 18, + 547 + + Contracts, Book, 494 + + Controversy, Polar, 5 + + Cook, Mrs., 478 + + Copenhagen, 12, 15, 244, 465, 466, 476, 479, 482, 494, 497, 538, 539, + 540, 549, 550, 551, 557, 563 + + Copenhagen, University of, 549, 562 + + Cornell University, 485 + + Crocker Land, 226, 490, 559 + + Crown Prince Gustav Sea, 329, 336 + + Crystal Palace Glacier, 451 + + + Dahl, Charles, 456 + + Dallas Bay, 103, 104 + + Danes, Hospitality of the, 515 + + Danish Literary Expedition, 453, 515 + + Davis Straits, Entered, 31 + + Dedrick, Dr., Harshly Treated by Peary, 434, 454, 515 + + De Gerlache, 134 + + "Devil's Thumb," 456 + + Dial Shadow, at the Pole, 308 + + Disco, Island of, Sighted, 34 + + Dundas Island, 337 + + Dunkle, Faked Observations of, 15, 535; + Introduced to, 536, 537, 538, 539, 540, 563 + + Dunkle-Loose Forgery, Explanation of, 355 + + + Egan, Dr., 465, 469, 470, 494 + + Eggedesminde, 462; + First Banquet in Honor of Discovery of the Pole at, 463, 466 + + Eidsbotn, Descended to, 343 + + Ellef Ringnes Land, 329 + + Ellesmere Land, 71; + the Promised Land, 101, 191, 344 + + Elsinore, 466 + + Endor, 2 + + Equipment, Examination of, 149 + + Eric the Red, 33 + + "_Erik_," S. S., Peary Supply Ship, 443, 449, 451, 515 + + Eskimos, Delusions of, 11; + Testimony of, 12, 34; + Married Life Among the, 48; + Tents, 49; + Bargaining, 49; + Study of Walrus Habits, 52; + Customs Pertaining to Children, 54; + Romance, 55; + Have No Salutation, 61; + Equality of Children and Dogs to the, 63; + Prosperity Measured by the Number of Dogs, 68; + Engaged in Request of Reserve Supplies, 85; + Making Clothes, 90; + Gloom When the Long Night Begins, 92; + Mourning for the Dead, 95; + Dancing, 97; + Joy in Killing a Bear, 108; + Christmas Festivities, 137; + Ice Cream, 137; + the Coming of the Stork to the, 142; + Love for Children, 145; + Belief in Shadows, 180; + Show Anxiety, 206; + Questioned by Peary, 206; + Comedies and Tragedies of the, 322; + Weird Customs of the, 399; + Describe Trip to Pole, 452; + Hostility to Peary, 454; + Put Through the Third Degree by Peary, 488; + Put on Board Peary's Ship Against their Will, 514 + + Etah, 13; + Steered for, 64; + Landing Difficult at, 69, 70; + Eskimos Return to, 206, 312, 448, 449, 451, 558 + + E-tuk-i-shook, 12; + Told Bartlett That Observations Were Made, 13; + Sights Bears, 183; + Chosen for Dash to Pole, 196, 293; + Sure of Nearness to Land, 225, 230, 270, 279, 284, 293, 307, 327, + 335; + Kills a Walrus, 373, 381; + Secures a Hare, 384; + An Adept With a Sling Shot, 399; + Recounts Remarkable Journey to the Pole, 452. + + Eureka Sound, Reached, 102, 183, 192 + + Explorers' Club, 529 + + + Faraday, Cape, 429, 430 + + Faroe Islands, 464 + + Fenker, Governor, 36 + + Fiala, Anthony, 478, 536 + + Fiord Umanak, Reached, 38; + Bay, Overland to, 162, 168; + Snag's, 193; + Cannon, 203; + Musk Ox, 343; + Talbot's, 429 + + Floundering in the Open Sea, 231 + + Flagler Bay, Advance Supplies Sent to, 154, 161, 168 + + Foulke Fiord, Entered, 66 + + Fox, Arctic, 398 + + Francke, Rudolph, 25; + Selected as Companion to Dr. Cook, 72, 73, 79; + Hunting, 89, 90; + Meat Gathered and Dried in Strips by, 114; + Prepared a Feast, 147, 148; + Asked to Join Party, 153, 155; + Remained in Charge of Supplies at Annoatok, 204; + in Starving Condition Refused Bread and Coffee by Peary, 442; + Compelled by Peary to Turn Over Furs and Ivory, 443, 517 + + Franklin Bay Expedition, Lady, 158 + + Fridtjof Nansen Sound, 315, 327 + + + Game, Captured, 100 + + Gannett, Henry, 544 + + "Gates of Hades," 66 + + Gilder, Richard Watson, 112 + + Glacier, Crystal Palace, 451; + Humboldt, 45, 100, 106, 109; + Petowik, Sighted, 45 + + Gloucester, 23 + + "_Godthaab_," S. S., Supply Ship, 461 + + Godhaven, Sheltered in, 36, 37 + + Goggles, Amber-Colored, Used to Protect the Eyes, 226 + + "Gold Brick," Slurs, 39 + + Gore, Professor, 540, 563 + + Gramatan Inn, 535 + + Grand Republic, 479, 480 + + Grant Land, 191, 212, 214, 215, 226 + + Great Iron Stone, 513 + + Greely Expedition, Camp of, 158; + Peary Throws Discredit Upon the, 433, 515 + + Greely, General A. W., 168, 544, 560 + + Greely River, 168 + + Greenland, Steered for, 31; + Interior, 32, 37, 45, 62, 69, 79, 117, 364, 408, 433, 436, 489, 497 + + Grinnell Land, 191 + + Grinnell Peninsula, 337, 342 + + Grosvenor, Gilbert, 543, 544 + + Gulf, Inglefield, 46, 59; + Crossing, 60, 453; + of St. Lawrence, Sailed Over, 31 + + Gum Drop Story, Explanation of, 30 + + + Hague Tribunal, The, 441 + + Hampton, Benjamin, 546, 553 + + Hampton's Magazine, 546, 552, 553 + + "_Hans Egede_," S. S., Sailed on, 464, 466, 467 + + Hansen, Dr. Norman, 462 + + Hares, Arctic, 67, 163 + + Harry, T. Everett, 552, 554 + + Hassel Sound, 329, 334 + + Hatherton, Cape, 67 + + Hayes, Dr., 66, 222 + + Hearst, W. R., Offer From, 491 + + Hell Gate, 348; + Drifting Towards, 350, 353 + + Henson, Matthew, Statement of, 506, 559 + + Holland House, Compact Made at, 24 + + Holsteinborg, 32 + + "_Hope_," S. S., 513 + + Hovgaard, Commander, 468, 472 + + "Hubbard, Cape Thomas," 201, 489 + + Hubbard, General Thomas, 528, 558 + + Humboldt Glacier, 45, 100, 106, 109 + + Hunting, Caribou, 109; + Bear, 177, 184, 189, 432; + Hare, 67, 89, 163; + Musk Ox, 171, 184, 378-392; + Narwhal, 87; + Walrus, 54, 64, 367-373; + In the Moonlight, 114-129 + + + Icarus, 43 + + Ice, Explosion of, 124 + + Iceberg, Adrift on an, 346 + + Iceland, 464 + + Igloo, Building an, 166 + + Ik-wa, the Cruelty of, 55, 56, 57 + + Inglefield, Cape, 68 + + Inglefield, Gulf, 46, 59; + Crossing, 60, 453 + + Instruments, Carried on Journey to Pole, 198; + Left With Whitney, 450; + Buried, 499 + + Investigation of Peary's So-Called Proofs, 544, 545 + + Isabella Cape, 428 + + Island, Bonsall, 106; + Brook's, 106; + Coburg, 428; + Disco, 34, 50; + Littleton, Passing Inside of, 67; + Dundas, 337; + Faroe, 464; + North Cornwall, 336; + Saunders, 54; + Schei, 185; + Shannon, 203; + Shelton, 478; + Weyprecht, 159 + + Itiblu, Near, 59, 453 + + + Jensen, Inspector Dougaard, 461, 463, 464, 497 + + Jesup, Mrs. Morris K., 514 + + Jones Sound, 324, 342, 383, 396, 406, 426 + + + Kraul, Governor, 457, 458, 459, 460, 461, 497 + + Kane Basin, 66, 101 + + Kane, Dr., 66 + + Kanga, 59 + + Karnah, 60 + + Kennedy Channel, 66 + + King Christian Land, 336 + + "King's Guest House," Only Hotel in Greenland, 462 + + "_Kite_," S. S., 511 + + Kookaan, 63 + + Koo-loo-ting-wah, Leading Man, 101, 105, 108, 109, 184; + Took Instructions to Francke, 204; + Paid by Peary to Abandon Supplies, 448 + + Ky-un-a, the Death of, 127 + + + Labrador, 9, 31, 463, 484, 557 + + Lancaster Sound, 192, 336, 342, 425 + + Lands-Lokk, 195 + + Lerwick, Sent First Cable to New York From, 464 + + Lonsdale, 477, 494, 537 + + Loose, 15; + Faked Observations, 535, 537, 538, 539, 540, 563 + + Louis Napoleon, Cape, 435 + + Lifeboat Cove, Searched for Relics Along, 67 + + Lincoln Land, 191 + + Lincoln Sea, 214 + + Littleton Island, Passing Inside of, 67 + + + MacDonald, J. A., Describes the Mt. McKinley Ascent, 531, 532, 533 + + McLaughlin, A. J., 563 + + Ma-nee, the Romance of, 55, 56, 57 + + Mann, Colonel, 13, 529 + + Marshal, Colonel, 527 + + Marvin, Ross, the Suspicious Death of, 485; + Letters Suppressed, 488 + + _Matin_, Paris, offer $50,000, 494 + + McMillan, Makes False Statements, 484 + + "_Melchior_," S. S., 476 + + Melville, Admiral, 502 + + Melville Bay, 38; + Entered, 39, 42, 44, 45, 455 + + Meteorite, "Star Stone," Stolen by Peary, 435, 454, 512 + + _Mirror_, St. Louis, the Only Paper to Grant Space to Uncover the + Unfair Methods of the Pro-Peary Conspiracy, 490, 491, 492 + + Mitchell, Roscoe, 525, 527 + + "_Morning_," S. S., 458 + + Mountain, Table, "Oomanaq," 46 + + Mt. McKinley, Affidavit, 13, 14; + Scaled, 29, 522; + Description of ascent, 531, 535, 541 + + Murchison Sound, 453 + + Museum of Natural History, 513 + + Musk Ox Fiord, 343 + + Musk Ox Hunting, 171, 184, 387 + + My-ah, Disposes of Wives to Gain Dogs, 48; + Direct Hunting, 51 + + Mylius Erickson, 133, 453 + + + Nansen, introduced the Kayak, 133, 495 + + Nansen Sound, Through, 164, 193, 195, 203 + + Nansen Straits, 77 + + Narwhal Hunt, Description of, 87 + + Naval Committee, 10 + + National Geographic Society, 10, 13, 540, 541, 542, 544, 549, 561, 564 + + Needles, Eskimo, How They are Made, 91 + + Newfoundland Boats, 31 + + New York _Globe_, 528 + + New York _Herald_, 465, 482, 493, 527, 538, 557 + + New York _Times_, Published Lying Document, 15; + Peary's Questions Sent to, 483, 521, 540, 557, 561, 564 + + New York _World_, 506 + + New York, University of, Graduated From, 27 + + Nordenskjold, 495 + + Nordenskjold, Expedition, 468 + + Nordenskjold System Borrowed by Peary, 511 + + North Cornwall Island, 336 + + North Devon, 183, 342, 359, 396, 423 + + North Lincoln, 406 + + North Pole, 3, 4, 5, 8, 16, 18, 19, 20, 21, 24, 30, 74, 155, 284, 287, + 310, 449, 452, 455, 557 + + North Star Bay, 44, 46; + Anchored in, 50, 462 + + Norwegian Bay, 336 + + Nuerke, 447, 451, 453 + + + Observations, 245, 257, 274, 292, 302 + + Olafsen, Professor, 472 + + Olrik's Bay, 59, 63 + + "Oomanaq," Table Mountain, 46 + + Oomanooi, Village of, Visited, 47, 453 + + _Oscar II_, S. S., Sailed on to New York, 475, 476, 477, 494, 495 + + + Paget, Cape, 428 + + Palatine Hotel, 554 + + Parker, Professor Herschell, 13, 523, 524 + + Parry, Cape, 59 + + Peary, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 18, 19, 20, 27, 28, 38, 39, 77, + 112, 131, 200, 212, 244, 253, 433, 438, 439, 440, 441, 443, + 444, 447, 448, 451, 452, 454, 459, 463, 474, 477, 482, 483, + 484, 485, 487, 490, 491, 492, 493, 496, 499, 500, 501, 502, + 505, 506, 507, 508, 509, 510, 511, 512, 513, 514, 516, 517, + 518, 519, 527, 528, 529, 530, 540, 542, 543, 544, 545, 557, + 558, 563, 565 + + Peary, Mrs., 63 + + Pennsylvania R. R. Station (Washington), Casual Examination of Peary's + Instruments in, 10 + + Penny Strait, 337 + + Petowik Glacier, 45 + + Phoenix Hotel, Stayed at, 468 + + Pioneer Bay, 340, 341 + + Polar Ethics, Accused of Violating, 439 + + Poe, Edgar Allen, 140 + + "_Polaris_," S. S., Stranded in Sinking Condition, 67 + + Pole, Copy of Note Left in Tube at, 313 + + Pole Star, 136 + + _Politiken_, 465, 473 + + Pond's Inlet, 425 + + Portland, 560 + + Press, Injustice of the, 19 + + Printz, F., 525 + + Proofs, Peary's Demands for, 547, 548, 549 + + + Quebec, 553 + + + Rassmussen, Knud, Lived Among Eskimos, 46; + Heard Story From Eskimos of Finding the "Big Nail," 462; + Foretold Return of Peary and Prophesied Discord, 463 + + Rensselaer Harbor, 101 + + Rice Strait, Through, 158 + + Roberts, Mr., 548 + + Robertson Bay, 63 + + Robertson, Cape, Proceed to, 61, 62 + + Robeson Channel, 218 + + "Robinson Crusoe" Life, 391 + + Rocky Mountains, 33 + + Rood, Henry, 485 + + Roosevelt, Stolen Tusk Presented to, 443 + + "_Roosevelt_," S. S., 438; + Piratical Career of the, 444, 447, 451, 484, 557 + + Route to the Pole, 285 + + Royal Geographical Society, 472, 473, 475 + + Rutherford, Cape, 159 + + + Sabine, Cape, Notes Left at, 149, 150, 154, 157, 158, 161, 336; + Tragedies of, 426, 431, 433, 434, 515 + + Saunders Island, 54 + + Schei Land, 185 + + Schley Land, 79, 164, 191 + + Schley, Rear-Admiral, 168, 544, 584 + + Schley River, 168 + + Schwartz, Dr. Henry, 490 + + Seattle _Times_, 527 + + Seiper, Cape, 103 + + Ser-wah-ding-wah, 122, 152 + + Shackleton's Journey to the South Pole, 458 + + Shadows at the Pole, 304, 306, 308 + + Shainwald, Ralph L., 469 + + Shakespeare, 140 + + Shelter Island, 478 + + Shannon Island, 203 + + Sheridan, Cape, 78 + + Schoubye, Captain Henning, 46, 515 + + Sledges, Making of, 128 + + Smith, Mrs., 514 + + Smith Sound, Entered, 65, 66; + Left, 71, 104, 122, 150 + + Snag's Fiord, 193 + + Sontag, Astronomer, Lost Life, 222 + + Sontag Bay, 451 + + Sound, Booth, 453; + Eureka, 182, 183, 192; + Fridtjof Nansen, 315, 327; + Hassel, 329, 334, 365; + Jones, 324, 342, 383, 396, 406, 426; + Lancaster, 192, 336, 425; + Murchison, 453; + Nansen, Through, 164, 193, 195, 203; + Smith, Entered, 65, 66; + Left, 71, 164, 122, 150; + Whale, Entered, 59; + Wolstenholm, 46; + Walrus Adventure in, 50, 433. + + Sparbo, Cape, 344, 355, 357, 363, 364, 377, 378, 413, 497 + + Speed Limits, Criticized, 502; + Peary's, 505 + + Spitzbergen, 289 + + Squint, Boreal, 275 + + Stanley, 7, 495 + + "Star Stone," 435, 454, 512 + + Stars and Stripes Pinned to the North Pole, 287 + + Stead, William T., 467, 468, 491 + + Steinsby, Professor, 461 + + St. Lawrence, Gulf of, 31 + + St. Louis, Lecture, 496 + + Stockwell, Professor, 503 + + Stokes, Frank Wilbert, 112 + + Straits, Davis, 31; + Belle Isle, Entering, 31; + Rice, Through, 158; + Vaigat, Passed, 38; + Cardigan, 350 + + Stromgren, Professor Elis, 472, 550 + + Stork, Visits at Christmas, 142 + + Supplies, 197; + Taken for Journey to Pole, 198, 199; + Seized by Peary, 444 + + Sydney, Harry Whitney, Arrives at, 12; + Journey to, 236, 558, 561 + + Svarten Huk, 38 + + Svartevoeg, 180; + Camped South of, 193, 194, 195, 201, 206, 247, 287, 363 + + Sverdrup, Captain Otto, Exploration of, 80, 191; + Mapped Channels by, 192, 201, 342; + Peary Stole the Honor of the Naming of Svartevoeg From, 489, 490, + 516, 560 + + + Table Mountain, "Oomanaq," 46 + + Tacoma, 528, 530 + + Talbot's Fiord, 429 + + Tassuasak, Arrived at, 456 + + Temperature of the Body, 324 + + Tennyson, Cape, 427, 428, 429 + + "Tent, The," Meteorite, 513 + + Tents, Eskimo, 49 + + Thompsen, Professor, 461 + + "Thumb, The Devil's," 39 + + Tittman, O. H., 544 + + Torp, Professor, 472, 549, 560 + + Townsend, Director, of the New York Aquarium, Falsely Accused Dr. Cook + of Stealing a Dictionary Compiled by Thomas Bridges of Indian + Words, 497, 498 + + To-ti-o, 107; + Joy in Killing of Bear, 108 + + Troy, 553 + + Tung-wing-wah, 95 + + + Umanak, 449, 461, 462 + + Umanak Fiord, 38 + + United Steamship Company, 477 + + Upernavik, Island, Appeared, 38, 206, 448, 449, 457, 459, 461 + + + Vaigat Straits, Passed, 38 + + Veile, Cape, 154, 161 + + Vera, Cape, 343, 352, 353 + + Verhoeff, John M., the Death of, 63, 511, 515 + + Vespucci, Amerigo, 7 + + + Wack, H. Wellington, 527 + + Waldorf-Astoria, Arrived at, 481; + Dinner Given at, 504, 535 + + Wallace, Dillon, 536 + + Walrus Hunting, 15, 50, 122, 123, 367-373; + In the Moonlight, 114-129 + + Whale Sound, Entered, 59 + + Whitney, Harry, 12; + Instruments left with, 244, 437; + Ill Treated by Peary's Boatswain Murphy, 445, 449, 451; + Peary Refused Permission to Bring From the North Instruments and + Data Left in His Hands, 497; + Forced to Bury Instruments, 499, 558 + + Weapons, Making, 381 + + Weche, Handelschef, 461 + + Weed, General, 527 + + Wellington, Channel, 336, 340 + + Weyprecht Island, 159 + + Wolstenholm Sound, 46, 50, 453 + + "Worm Diggers' Union," 529 + + Wyckoff, E. G., 471 + + + York, Cape, 44, 454, 455 + + + + +INDEX OF NEW MATERIAL + + + Arctic Club of America (b) + + + Balch, Edwin Swift, Article by, 595-599 (b) + + Bates, R. C., Credits Mt. McKinley ascent, 534 (b) + + Bradley Land, 597-598 + + + Chautauqua Managers Association, Article by (a, b, c) + + Caines, Ralph H., Credits Mt. McKinley ascent, 534 (b) + + Cook-Peary Controversy, 606, 607, 608 + + Cook Must Have Been First, 597 + + Cook's Three Achievements, 598 + + Carr, Wooda N. Letter to and from, 606 + + Can Government Escape Responsibility, 605 + + Clark, Champ, Letter from, 608 + + + Danish Geographical Society (b) + + "Discoverer of the Pole," Peary denied title (a) + + Daniels, Josephus, Card to, 603 + + Discoverers Doubted, 596 + + + Explorers, Verdicts of, 584 + + + Geographic Societies, European, Forced to Honor Peary (a) + + Greely, Gen. A. W., 603 (b) + + Glacial Land, Discovery of, 598 + + + Hubbard-Bridgeman, Arctic Trust, 600 + + Hoax the World, 606 + + High, Fred, Editor of Platform, Article by, 604, 605, 610 + + + King of Belgium (b) + + Kill Brother Explorer, Tried to, 602 + + + Lecointe, Prof. Georges, 603 + + Lyceum and Chautauqua Magazine, 604, 610 + + + Mann, Congressman James R., Card to, 604 + + Mt. McKinley Expedition, 534 + + Moore, Prof. Willis, 601, 603 + + + North Pole, 595, 604, 606 + + National Investigation, Desired by Cook, 600 + + National Geographical Society, 601, 603, (a) + + + Overland Magazine, Article by R. H. Caines, 534 + + Official Evidence not Necessarily Correct, 607 + + O'Hara, Barrett, 609 + + + Pension Peary, Old Age, 602, 603 + + Purple Snow, 598, 599 + + Peary's Data proves Cook's, 596, 597, 599 + + Poindexter, Miles, Letter from, 607 + + Petty Cliques in Washington, 607 + + Peary-Parker-Brown Humbug up to date, 534 + + Parker-Brown Mt. McKinley Expedition, 534 + + + Schley, Rear Admiral W. S. (b) + + Sverdrup, Capt. Otto, 603 (b) + + Sampson-Schley Controversy, 607 + + Scientific Pioneers, U. S. first rank, 602 + + + Tribune, N. Y., Article from, 595 + + Travelers Called Liars, 595 + + Taft, Wm. H., Telegram to, 606 + + + University of Copenhagen, Conferred Degree, Ph. D. (a, b) + + + Wilson, Woodrow, Letter to, 602 + + + * * * * * + + + + +OTHER BOOKS BY DR. COOK + + +You have read Dr. Cook's narrative of his expedition to the North Pole. +His other books are of equal interest. + + +Through the First Antarctic Night + +A narrative of the Belgian South Pole Expedition of 1897, in charge of +Commander de Gerlache, with Dr. Cook as surgeon. + +This expedition came near sharing the fate of Captain Scott of the +English expedition. Captain Roald Amundsen, discoverer of the South +Pole, in speaking to the Press of the hardships which the members of the +Belgica expedition withstood says: "During the winter scurvy broke out +and at the same time several of the party showed signs of mental +trouble. Dr. Cook proved himself a surgeon equal to the situation. All +of his patients recovered. Here I learned to know Dr. Cook and to +appreciate him as one of the ablest, most honest, most reliable men I +have ever met. Members of the Belgica expedition owe their lives to Dr. +Cook, as it was through his ingenious plan of sawing the channel through +the pack-ice to open water, thus releasing the ice locked ship, that +saved the entire party from death." + +The above is covered in detail in similar words on pages 19, 20, 23 +Volume One of "The South Pole" a late book by Captain Amundsen. On page +24 of the same volume he says: + +"Upright, honorable, capable and consciencious in the extreme; such is +the memory we retain of Dr. Frederick A. Cook." + + +To the Top of the Continent + +Exploration in Sub-Artic Alaska. A thrilling account of the first ascent +of America's highest mountain--Mount McKinley. + +Dr. Cook has been engaged in exploration for twenty years--the best part +of his life--all without pay. He has furnished his own money for most of +his expeditions. He is a quiet, unassuming man and has done all of his +work with little thought of personal gain or honorary publicity. +Quietly he came forward and told us that one of the greatest exploits +ever made in mountain climbing was now accomplished. It did not occur to +him to beat a drum or blow a trumpet to make this known to the world. +The work was accomplished; this was sufficient for him. Little was known +of the Mt. McKinley trip until Peary brought it up as a side issue to +throw doubt on Dr. Cook's Polar Claim; see page 534 of this book. + + +My Attainment of the Pole + +Edition de Luxe + +Captain Amundsen in speaking of Dr. Cook's Polar trip says: "It was a +pity that Peary should besmirch his beautiful work by circulating +outrageous accusations against a competitor who had WON THE BATTLE in +open field. If Peary is to prove the accusation by the evidence of +Cook's two followers, I must confess it is a very weak foundation." + + * * * * * + +The above books by Dr. Frederick A. Cook have been printed in edition de +Luxe, especially for subscription purposes. The regular price is $5.00 +each, but to accommodate those further interested in exploration, we +have arranged to make a special reduced price; see next page. + + + .................................... + .................................... + + The Polar Publishing Co., + 601 Steinway Hall, + Chicago, Ill. + + Gentlemen: + + Enclosed find three dollars ($3.00) for which please send me postpaid, + one copy of "Through the First Antarctic Night," by Dr. Frederick A. + Cook, and oblige + + Yours truly, + ........................................ + .................................... + + + ........................................ + .................................... + + The Polar Publishing Co., + 601 Steinway Hall, + Chicago, Ill. + + Gentlemen: + + Enclosed find three dollars ($3.00) for which please send me postpaid, + one copy of "To the Top of the Continent," by Dr. Frederick A. Cook, + and oblige + + Yours truly, + .................................... + .................................... + + + .................................... + .................................... + + The Polar Publishing Co., + 601 Steinway Hall, + Chicago, Ill. + + Gentlemen: + + Enclosed find three dollars ($3.00) for which please send me postpaid, + one copy of "My Attainment of the Pole," Edition de Luxe, by Dr. + Frederick A. Cook, and oblige + + Yours truly, + .................................... + .................................... + + +Remove this sheet, clip and fill out any or all of the above coupons and +mail to this office and we will forward the books at once. + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's My Attainment of the Pole, by Frederick A. 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