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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Photogravure, by Henry R. Blaney
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Photogravure
+
+Author: Henry R. Blaney
+
+Release Date: June 17, 2011 [EBook #36446]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PHOTOGRAVURE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ [Illustration: THE S. & A. PHOTOGRAPHIC SERIES.]
+
+ Edited by W. I. LINCOLN ADAMS.
+
+
+ No. 1. THE PHOTOGRAPHIC AMATEUR.
+ By J. TRAILL TAYLOR. A Guide to the Young Photographer, either
+ Professional or Amateur. (Second Edition.) Paper covers =$0.50=
+
+ No. 4. HOW TO MAKE PICTURES.
+ By HENRY CLAY PRICE. (Fourth Edition.) The A B C of Dry-Plate
+ Photography. Out of print. (See No. 26)
+
+ No. 5. PHOTOGRAPHY WITH EMULSIONS.
+ By Capt. W. DE W. ABNEY, R.E., F.R.S. A treatise on the theory
+ and practical working of Gelatine and Collodion Emulsion
+ Processes. (Second Edition.) Paper covers =.75=
+
+ No. 7. THE MODERN PRACTICE OF RETOUCHING.
+ As practiced by M. Piquepé, and other celebrated experts. (Eighth
+ Edition.) Paper covers, =50= cents: Library Edition =.75=
+
+ No. 8. THE SPANISH EDITION OF HOW TO MAKE PICTURES.
+ Ligeras Lecciones sobre Fotografia Dedicados a los Aficionados,
+ Cloth bound, =75= cents. Paper covers =.50=
+
+ No. 9. Out of print.
+
+ No. 12. HARDWICH'S PHOTOGRAPHIC CHEMISTRY.
+ A manual of Photographic Chemistry, theoretical and practical.
+ (Ninth Edition) Edited by J. TRAILL TAYLOR.
+ Leatherette binding =2.00=
+
+ No. 13. TWELVE ELEMENTARY LESSONS ON SILVER PRINTING.
+ (Second Edition.) Paper covers =.50=
+
+ No. 14. ABOUT PHOTOGRAPHY AND PHOTOGRAPHERS.
+ A series of interesting essays for the studio and study, to which
+ is added European Rambles with a Camera. By H. BADEN PRITCHARD,
+ F.C.S. Paper covers, =50= cents. Cloth bound =.75=
+
+ No. 15. THE CHEMICAL EFFECT OF THE SPECTRUM.
+ By Dr. J. M. EDER. Cloth bound, =50= cents. Paper covers =.25=
+
+ No. 16. PICTURE MAKING BY PHOTOGRAPHY.
+ By H. P. ROBINSON, author of Pictorial Effect in Photography.
+ Written in popular form and finely illustrated. Library Edition,
+ =$1.00=. Paper covers =.75=
+
+ No. 17. FIRST LESSONS IN AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHY.
+ Out of print. (See Amateur Photography, by W. I. LINCOLN ADAMS.)
+
+ No. 20. DRY PLATE MAKING FOR AMATEURS.
+ By GEORGE L. SINCLAIR, M.D. Pointed, practical and plain.
+ Leatherette binding =.50=
+
+ No. 21. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES
+ ALMANAC FOR 1887.
+ (Second Edition.) Paper cover (postage, 12 cents
+ additional) =0.50=
+ Library Edition (postage, 12 cents additional) =1.00=
+
+ No. 22. PHOTOGRAPHIC PRINTING METHODS.
+ By the Rev. W. H. BURBANK. A Practical Guide to the Professional
+ and Amateur Worker. Cloth bound. (Third Edition) =1.00=
+
+ No. 23. A HISTORY OF PHOTOGRAPHY.
+ Written as a practical guide and an introduction to its latest
+ developments. By W. JEROME HARRISON, F.G.S., and containing a
+ frontispiece of the author. Cloth bound =1.00=
+
+ No. 24. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES
+ ALMANAC FOR 1888.
+ Illustrated. (Second Edition.) Paper (by mail, 12 cents
+ additional) =.50=
+ Library Edition (by mail, 12 cents additional) =1.00=
+
+ No. 25. THE PHOTOGRAPHIC NEGATIVE.
+ A Practical Guide to the Preparation of Sensitive Surfaces by the
+ Calotype, Albumen, Collodion, and Gelatine Processes, on Glass
+ and Paper, with Supplementary Chapter on Development, etc., by
+ the Rev. W. H. BURBANK. Cloth bound. Reduced from $1.50 to =1.00=
+
+ No. 26. THE PHOTOGRAPHIC INSTRUCTOR FOR THE PROFESSIONAL AND AMATEUR.
+ Being the comprehensive series of Practical Lessons issued to
+ the Students of the Chautauqua School of Photography. Revised
+ and enlarged. Edited by W. I. LINCOLN ADAMS, with an Appendix
+ by Prof. CHAS. EHRMANN. (Fourth Edition, enlarged and revised.)
+ Paper covers =1.00=
+ Library Edition =1.50=
+
+ No. 27. LETTERS ON LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHY.
+ By H. P. ROBINSON. Finely illustrated from the author's own
+ photographs and containing a Photogravure frontispiece of the
+ author. Cloth bound. =1.50=
+
+ No. 29. THE PROCESSES OF PURE PHOTOGRAPHY.
+ By W. K. BURTON and ANDREW PRINGLE. A standard work, very
+ complete and freely illustrated. Price, in paper covers, =$2.00=.
+ Library Ed. =2.50=
+
+ No. 30. PICTORIAL EFFECT IN PHOTOGRAPHY.
+ By H. P. ROBINSON. A new edition. Illustrated. Mr. Robinson's
+ first and best work. Cloth bound =1.50=
+
+ No. 32. PRACTICAL PHOTO-MICROGRAPHY.
+ By ANDREW PRINGLE. Fully illustrated. Cloth bound =2.50=
+
+ No. 33. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES
+ ALMANAC FOR 1890.
+ Paper cover (by mail, 14 cents additional) =.50=
+ Library Edition (by mail, 14 cents additional) =1.00=
+
+ No. 34. THE OPTICAL LANTERN.
+ Illustrated. By ANDREW PRINGLE. Paper covers, =$1.00=.
+ Cloth bound =1.50=
+
+ No. 35. LANTERN SLIDES BY PHOTOGRAPHIC METHODS.
+ By ANDREW PRINGLE. Paper covers =75= cents. Cloth bound =1.25=
+
+ No. 36. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES
+ ALMANAC FOR 1891.
+ Paper covers (by mail, 15 cents additional) =.50=
+ Library Edition (by mail, 15 cents additional) =1.00=
+ Cyclopædic Index for 1891 Annual =.10=
+
+ No. 37. PHOTOGRAPHIC OPTICS.
+ A Text-Book for the Professional and Amateur. By W. K. BURTON.
+ Paper covers, =$1.00=. Library Edition =1.50=
+
+ No. 38. PHOTOGRAPHIC REPRODUCTION PROCESSES.
+ Illustrated. By P. C. DUCHOCHOIS. Paper covers, =$1.00=.
+ Cloth =1.50=
+
+ No. 39. EL INSTRUCTOR FOTOGRAFICO.
+ Paper covers, =$1.00=. Library Edition =1.50=
+
+ No. 40. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES
+ ALMANAC FOR 1892.
+ Out of print.
+
+ No. 41. THE CHEMISTRY OF PHOTOGRAPHY.
+ By W. JEROME HARRISON. Cloth bound =3.00=
+
+ No. 42. PICTURE MAKING IN THE STUDIO.
+ By H. P. ROBINSON. Paper covers, =50= cents. Cloth bound (Library
+ Edition) =1.00=
+
+ No. 43. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES
+ ALMANAC FOR 1893.
+ Edited by W. I. LINCOLN ADAMS.
+ Paper covers (postage extra, 15 cents) =.50=
+ Cloth bound (Library Edition) (postage extra, 15 cents) =1.00=
+
+ No. 44. THE LIGHTING IN THE PHOTOGRAPHIC STUDIO.
+ By P. C. DUCHOCHOIS. A new edition. Paper covers, =75= cents.
+ Cloth bound (Library Edition) =1.00=
+
+ No. 45. THE GRAMMAR OF PHOTO-ENGRAVING.
+ By H. D. FARQUHAR. Illustrated. The most complete text-book yet
+ published on this subject. Price, in paper covers, =$2.00=. Cloth
+ bound (Library Edition) =2.50=
+
+ No. 46. INDUSTRIAL PHOTOGRAPHY.
+ Illustrated. By P. C. DUCHOCHOIS. Being a description of the
+ various processes of producing Indestructible Photographic Images
+ on Glass, Porcelain, Metal, and many other substances. Paper
+ covers, =50= cents. Cloth bound =1.00=
+
+ No. 47. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES
+ ALMANAC FOR 1894.
+ Edited by W. I. LINCOLN ADAMS.
+ Paper covers (postage extra, 15 cents) =.50=
+ Cloth bound (Library Edition) (postage extra, 15 cents) =1.00=
+
+ No. 48. ARISTOTYPES AND HOW TO MAKE THEM.
+ Giving a complete description of the manufacture and treatment of
+ Gelatino and Collodio-Chloride Papers. By WALTER E. WOODBURY.
+ Illustrated. Paper covers, =$1.50=. Library Edition =2.00=
+
+ No. 49. THE ENCYCLOPÆDIC DICTIONARY OF PHOTOGRAPHY.
+ Containing over 2,000 references and about 400 illustrations. By
+ WALTER E. WOODBURY. In press.
+
+ No. 50. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES
+ ALMANAC FOR 1895.
+ With over 200 illustrations In paper covers. Postage extra =50=
+ Cloth bound. (Library Edition.) Postage 15 cents extra =1.00=
+
+ No. 51. THE PHOTO-GRAVURE PROCESS.
+ By =Henry R. Blaney=. A very complete and practical book, written
+ by an Expert. In paper covers, =50= cents. Cloth bound (Library
+ edition). =1.00=
+
+ For sale by all dealers in Photographic goods, booksellers,
+ and sent, post-paid, on receipt of price, by the publishers,
+
+ THE SCOVILL & ADAMS COMPANY OF NEW YORK,
+ SEND FOR BOOK CATALOGUE. 423 BROOME STREET.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ A Selected List of Books
+ FROM THE SCOVILL & ADAMS CO.'S BOOK CATALOGUE.
+
+ Price per Copy.
+ Amateur Photography.
+ A Practical Guide for the Beginner. By W. I. LINCOLN ADAMS.
+ Illustrated. Paper covers, =50c.=; cloth bound =$1.00=
+
+ Lantern Slides and How to Make Them.
+ By A. R. DRESSER. A new book, very complete and practical =.25=
+
+ Photography at Night.
+ By P. C. DUCHOCHOIS. Illustrated. 108 pp. Paper covers =1.00=
+
+ Bromide Paper and How to Use It.
+ Written by an Expert, with a specimen Bromide illustration =.25=
+
+ The Knack.
+ Written expressly to help the beginner in perplexity, reduced
+ to =.25=
+
+ Photographic Lenses; Their Choice and Use.
+ By J. H. DALLMEYER. A special edition, edited for American
+ photographers. In paper covers =.25=
+
+ The Chemistry of Photography.
+ By Prof. RAPHAEL MELDOLA =2.00=
+
+ The Photographic Image.
+ By P. C. DUCHOCHOIS. A Theoretical and Practical Treatise on
+ Development. Paper covers =1.50=
+ Cloth bound =2.00=
+
+ The Ferrotyper's Guide.
+ For the ferrotyper, this is the only standard work. Seventh
+ thousand =.75=
+
+ The Photographic Studios of Europe.
+ By H. BADEN PRITCHARD, F.C.S. Cloth bound, =$1.00=; paper
+ covers =.50=
+
+ Art of Making Portraits in Crayon on Solar Enlargements.
+ (Third edition.) By E. LONG =1.00=
+
+ History and Hand-Book of Photography.
+ With seventy illustrations. Cloth bound, reduced to =.50=
+
+ Crayon Portraiture.
+ Complete instructions for making Crayon Portraits on Crayon Paper
+ and on Platinum, Silver and Bromide Enlargements; also directions
+ for the use of Transparent Liquid Water Colors, and for making
+ French Crystals. By J. A. BARHYDT. A new edition. Paper covers,
+ =50c.=; cloth bound =1.00=
+
+ Art Recreations.
+ Ladies' popular guide in home decorative work, with a
+ chapter on photography. Edited by MARION KEMBLE =1.00=
+
+ American Carbon Manual.
+ For those who want to try the carbon printing process, this
+ work gives the most detailed information. Cloth bound.
+ Reduced to =.50=
+
+ Manual de Fotografia.
+ By AUGUSTUS LE PLONGEON. (Hand-book for Spanish
+ Photographers.) =1.00=
+
+ Secrets of the Dark Chamber.
+ By D. D. T. DAVIE =.50=
+
+ The Photographer's Book of Practical Formulas.
+ Compiled by Dr. W. D. HOLMES. Ph.D., and E. P. GRISWOLD.
+ Paper covers, reduced from =75c.= to =30c.=; cloth bound,
+ reduced from =$1.50= to =.60=
+
+ American Hand-Book of the Daguerrotype.
+ By S. D. HUMPHREY. (Fifth edition.) This book contains
+ the various processes employed in taking heliographic
+ impressions =.25=
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ AN ANNOUNCEMENT!
+
+ We have made arrangements with the NEW YORK PHOTOGRAVURE COMPANY by
+ which we are enabled to offer a series of magnificent Photogravures
+ at a very low price.
+
+ The first is that which has been already published and described by
+ us, being the "COURT OF HONOR," at the World's Fair. The companion
+ to this is in preparation, and will shortly be ready. It represents
+ a view of the "ADMINISTRATION BUILDING AND COURT OF HONOR," looking
+ up from the Peristyle. These two pictures form a magnificent
+ souvenir of the World's Fair, and imperishable ones, which have not
+ been approached in artistic or technical excellence. Each measures
+ about 18 x 22 inches, and they are printed in the best style, on
+ paper 24 x 32 inches.
+
+ The next two pictures are photogravures from negatives made by Mr.
+ JOHN E. DUMONT, of Rochester, and form admirable companion pictures.
+ Their titles are, "NO DOUBT," and "IN DOUBT," and represent, in one
+ case, a monk with a winning hand of cards, and having no doubt what
+ his play is to be. In the other, a monk holding a hand of cards
+ which evidently is a losing one, and, as evidently, he is in doubt
+ as to what to play.
+
+ The story of these pictures is admirably told, and with all the well
+ known skill of Mr. DUMONT.
+
+ The next in the series is a "LANDSCAPE WITH SHEEP," by Mr. ROBERT S.
+ REDFIELD, of Philadelphia, and can well pass for a reproduction of a
+ painting by VERBECK HOVEN, not that it is in any sense a copy of any
+ picture, being entirely original, but in sentiment and feeling
+ equaling the best and most artistic work of the painter. As a
+ companion to this, "A STORM AT BRIGHTON" is published. This was one
+ of the prize pictures at the recent exhibition of the joint
+ Societies of Amateur Photographers of Boston, Philadelphia and New
+ York. It is exceedingly effective as a study of cloud and motion of
+ water, and forms an admirably suggestive study for artists. It is
+ from a negative by Mr. ERNEST EDWARDS, President of the New York
+ Photogravure Company.
+
+ The well-known picture of "Flirtation" has also been engraved for
+ this series, and will be very popular. This picture (it will be
+ remembered) appeared in the American "Annual of Photography" for
+ 1892.
+
+ With the exception of the two first, all these pictures measure
+ about 16 x 12 inches for size of work, and are printed on etching
+ paper, 22 x 28 inches.
+
+ The uniform price of all is $2.00 each. For sale by all dealers.
+
+ Other subjects will follow, from time to time.
+
+ These Photogravures will be sent, post-paid, by mail,
+ carefully packed, on receipt of price.
+
+ THE SCOVILL & ADAMS COMPANY.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ Twelve: Photographic: Studies.
+
+ THE THIRD EDITION.
+
+ A Collection of Photogravures from the Best Representative
+ Photographic Negatives by Leading Photographic Artists.
+
+ COMPILED BY W. I. LINCOLN ADAMS.
+
+ THE COLLECTION INCLUDES
+
+ "Dawn and Sunset," H. P. Robinson.
+ "Childhood," H. McMichael.
+ "As Age Steals On," J. F. Ryder.
+ "A Portrait Study," B. J. Falk.
+ "Solid Comfort," John E. Dumont.
+ "Ophelia," H. P. Robinson.
+ "No Barrier," F. A. Jackson.
+ "El Capitan," W. H. Jackson.
+ "Still Waters," J. J. Montgomery.
+ "Surf," James F. Cowee
+ "A Horse Race," George Barker.
+ "Hi, Mister, may we have some Apples?" Geo. B. Wood.
+
+ Printed on Japan Paper, Mounted on Boards. Size, 11 × 14, in
+ ornamental Portfolio and a Box. Price, $3.00.
+
+ Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price, by
+ The Scovill & Adams Company.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ Artistic Landscapes
+ FROM NATURE.
+
+ Representing The Four Seasons.
+
+ These plates were made from photographs taken direct from nature.
+ They have been most beautifully reproduced by the highest grade
+ (copper-plate) process of the New York Photogravure Company. The
+ plates measure 6 x 8 inches, but are printed on extra heavy plate
+ paper 11 x 14 inches in size. Each picture is printed in a tint
+ especially appropriate for the season which it represents, and the
+ entire set of photogravures are in every way =worthy of framing=.
+
+ The negatives were photographed from nature by Mr. W. I. LINCOLN
+ ADAMS, and they have been _enthusiastically praised wherever shown_.
+
+ What GEORGE INNESS, America's greatest landscape painter, says of
+ these photogravures:
+
+ "They are very charming, and should prove extremely useful in the
+ development of the landscape art of our country."
+
+ They are sold singly or in sets.
+
+ Price, per copy $0.50
+ The Set of Four 1.50
+
+ Sent, post-paid, to any address, on receipt of price, by
+ The Montclair Photogravure Publishing Company,
+ MONTCLAIR, N. J.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ THEODORE METCALF CO.
+
+ Chemicals
+ Fine, Rare and Crude, of every description.
+
+ From the many years we have dealt in this class of supplies, we claim
+ to be leaders in this branch of the drug trade, and by constantly
+ replenishing and increasing our stock, and at once procuring or
+ manufacturing all new chemical products, we are able to do full
+ justice to all orders.
+
+ : Pure Chemicals :
+ FOR PHOTOGRAPHIC AND PROCESS WORK.
+
+ Bromide of Potassium.
+ Bichromates.
+ Ammonium, Potassium and Sodium.
+ Powdered Dragon Blood, Light Colored and Dark.
+ Metcalf Powdered Bitumen of Judea.
+
+ :: ALSO ::
+
+ Syrian Asphaltum.
+ Benzole, Chemically Pure,
+
+ By Can or Barrel.
+
+ Etc., Etc., Etc.
+
+ Boston, U. S. A.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ The Grammar of Photo-Engraving.
+
+ By H. D. FARQUHAR.
+
+ (Number Forty-five of the Scovill Photographic Series.)
+
+ CONTAINING INSTRUCTION IN
+
+ Drawing, Chemistry and Optics, as applied to Photo-Engraving.
+
+ AND A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE ART OF
+
+ HALF-TONE, ZINC ETCHING, SWELLED GELATINE, LITHOTYPE AND
+ CHALK PLATE ENGRAVING, AS PRACTICED IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+ ILLUSTRATED.
+
+ The object of this book is to present to the constantly increasing
+ number of persons seeking after practical knowledge in the art of
+ process engraving, a comprehensive and totally reliable text-book.
+ The book has been written with a view to instruct the amateur as
+ well as the professional, and the writer has always had in mind the
+ beginner, counting no detail too trivial to be fully described.
+
+ It has been written for the most part in the leisure hours, after
+ practical service during the day in a photo-engraving establishment,
+ so that the instruction goes directly from the shop to the pupil. It
+ has been the author's hope, in writing this book, to so carefully
+ describe every branch of work connected with the subject, that the
+ beginner, who knows absolutely nothing about it, may become a
+ practical photo-engraver from a careful reading of the work.
+
+ CONTENTS:
+
+ Chapter I.--Drawings for Photographic Reproduction. The Materials
+ Required.
+
+ Chapter II.--Chemicals used in Photo-Engraving.
+
+ Chapter III.--Apparatus and the Workshop.
+
+ Chapter IV.--Photographic Processes as Employed in
+ Photo-Engravings. Preparation of the Chemicals.
+
+ Chapter V.--Causes of Failure. Remedies.
+
+ Chapter VI.--The Half-Tone Process. Screen Plates.
+
+ Chapter VII.--Zinc Etching. Preparation of Chemicals Used in Zinc
+ Etching.
+
+ Chapter VIII.--Etching in Half-Tone.
+
+ Chapter IX.--Blocking and Finishing. Tools and Materials.
+
+ Chapter X.--Swelled Gelatine Process of Photo-Engraving.
+
+ Chapter XI.--Lithotype Engraving for Color Work.
+
+ Chapter XII.--Photographing on Wood and Other Processes.
+
+ Price, in paper covers $2.00
+ " cloth bound (Library Edition) 2.50
+
+ For sale by all dealers in Photographic Materials, and sent,
+ post-paid, on receipt of price, by the publishers,
+
+ THE SCOVILL & ADAMS COMPANY,
+ 423 Broome Street, New York City.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+ [Illustration: A ROADSIDE COTTAGE IN THE CATSKILLS
+ E. EDWARDS PHOTO. N.Y PHOTOGRAVURE CO.]
+
+
+
+
+ PHOTOGRAVURE.
+
+
+ BY
+ HENRY R. BLANEY.
+
+
+ _With Introduction and Additions by the Editor._
+
+
+ NEW YORK:
+ THE SCOVILL & ADAMS COMPANY.
+ 1895.
+
+
+
+ [Illustration]
+
+ Copyright, 1895.
+ THE SCOVILL & ADAMS COMPANY.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+ PAGE
+ INTRODUCTION BY THE EDITOR.--Early History of Photogravure--
+ Woodbury's Process--Other Methods, 5
+
+ CHAPTER I.--The Negative.--Quality best Suitable.--Necessity
+ for Reversing.--Methods of Obtaining Reversals.--The Powder
+ Process, 9
+
+ CHAPTER II.--The Transparency.--The Carbon Process.--Cutting
+ up the Tissue.--Sensitizing.--Drying.--Exposing.--Continuing
+ Action of Light.--Development.--Carbutt's Transparency
+ Plates, 15
+
+ CHAPTER III.--The Carbon Tissue.--Sensitizing and Exposing.--
+ The Actinometer, 22
+
+ CHAPTER IV.--Cleaning and Graining of the Copper Plate Plate--
+ Grade of Copper Necessary.--Where and How to Buy it, 25
+
+ CHAPTER V.--Development of Negative Resist on the Copper
+ Plate.--Preparation for Biting with Acid through the
+ Gelatine, 29
+
+ CHAPTER VI.--The Acid Baths.--How to Make Them and Method
+ of Biting through the Gelatine, 32
+
+ CHAPTER VII.--Cleaning and Polishing the Plate, with Tools
+ Necessary for Retouching, 37
+
+ CHAPTER VIII.--Printing from the Plate.--Steel Facing, 39
+
+ CHAPTER IX.--Materials Necessary for Photogravure--List of
+ Firms Supplying Them, 41
+
+ CHAPTER X.--Books and Articles on Photogravure, 1888-1893, 44
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+About the year 1820 Nicéphore Niepce made the discovery that bitumen,
+under certain conditions, was sensitive to light. He dissolved it in oil
+of lavender, and spread a thin layer of the solution thus obtained upon
+stone. This he exposed under a drawing (making the paper transparent by
+waxing), and after sufficient exposure, oil of lavender was poured on.
+Those portions of the bitumen which had been exposed to the action of
+the light had become insoluble, and so remained while the lines which
+had been protected by the drawing were dissolved away. By treating the
+stone with an acid these lines were bitten or eroded, and could be
+printed from. Niepce afterward employed metal plates instead of the
+stone.
+
+Here we have the foundation for a number of printing processes of the
+present day, including photogravure.
+
+For many years, however, progress in processes for intaglio printing was
+very slow. In 1852 Talbot introduced a process termed photoglyphy, and
+in 1854 Paul Pretsch, of Vienna, patented a process which he termed
+photogalvanography. In 1870 the late Walter B. Woodbury, inventor of
+the Woodburytype process, suggested to M. Rousselon, of M. M. Goupil &
+Co.,[A] a process which he had discovered, and which he describes[B]
+as follows:
+
+"The method, as perhaps many of your readers know, is based on the fact
+that some pigments used in carbon printing have an unpleasant habit of
+granulating when mixed with gelatine and bichromate, destructive to
+their use in carbon printing and Woodburytype, but bearing the essence
+of success in an engraving process where grain is necessary. The origin
+of this method was simply owing to my getting some bad reliefs, in which
+this effect was first noticed. Out of this arose the photo-engraving
+process which, as I said before, is now claimed as the invention of a
+Frenchman. But I am digressing.
+
+"This relief, possessing a suitable grain, could, by hydraulic pressure,
+be made to transfer its minutest details to metal without any loss to
+fineness, so giving a plate possessing all the properties of a
+mezzotint. The methods hitherto used of electrotyping would have proved
+useless, as all detail would have been lost. The same thing applies to
+the new method I am now about to bring before your readers. The latter
+process of getting the grain transferred to a hard metal remains the
+same; but the novelty is in the method of producing the grained plate.
+To those who have practiced the process of enameling, as used by Geymet
+and Alker, and others, my description will be better understood.
+
+"I first coat a thin, polished steel plate (zinc will answer) with a
+very thin coating of gum, glucose, and bichromate as used for enameling.
+This I dry rapidly, and, while still warm and desiccated, expose under a
+glass positive. On removal from the frame after exposure the plate is
+made to take up a slight amount of moisture by breathing on it.
+
+"During this stage I brush or dust over it any hard powder, such as
+emery, powdered glass, etc, but these I keep of different degrees of
+fineness or coarseness. No. 1, is of a coarse quality, and is used
+first; No. 2 is finer; and No. 3 is of the finest grain obtainable.
+These are obtained by passing through muslin of different degrees of
+fineness. Having in the first stage of moisture used the No. 1, or
+coarsest, powder, after a time No. 2 is dusted over and adheres to the
+middle tints, while the very finest tones, which have almost lost their
+sticky qualities by the exposure to light, are treated to No. 3.
+
+"Now we possess a granular picture having all the true qualities
+required in a photo-engraved plate, or, rather, such as will give a
+reverse in metal having these qualities. The steel or zinc plate is then
+to be exposed to light to completely harden the mixture all over, and is
+then treated exactly as in my other engraving process; that is, pressed
+into soft metal by hydraulic pressure, electrotyped, and then the
+surface is aciercised or coated with steel. The dark parts are thus
+represented by a coarse grain, the middle tints by a medium grain, and
+the finest shades by the most infinitesimal particles, thus meeting all
+requirements necessary to a successful photo engraving process."
+
+This process was taken up by a Frenchman and claimed by him as his own
+invention. The chief difficulty with it was that the plates before being
+perfect require the work of a skillful engraver, sometimes for weeks.
+They were therefore very costly, six dollars per square inch being
+charged for the making of the plate alone.
+
+Klic's process, 1886, was the next important improvement in photogravure
+or intaglio printing, and since then many other processes and
+improvements have been introduced by Obernetter, Waterhouse, Colls,
+Zuccato, Sawyer and others.
+
+In the following chapters Mr. H. R. Blaney gives a working description
+of the process as practiced to-day by many of the leading firms in this
+and other countries. This originally appeared in the columns of THE
+PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES, but I have made many additions that I have imagined
+may be of value to the student. A dividing line will be found between
+Mr. Blaney's writings and my own additions.
+
+ THE EDITOR.
+
+ [A] Now Boussod, Valadon et Cie.
+
+ [B] _British Journal Almanac_, 1874.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+THE NEGATIVE.
+
+
+Any negative may be used for photogravure, that is, taken from nature,
+or from a painting or engraving, provided it is reversed, and, in the
+case of paintings, should, in addition, be on an orthochromatic plate.
+The negative should be soft and brilliant, well exposed, and not hard or
+under-exposed. A reversed negative is always necessary if the print from
+the copper plate is required to be similar in regard to right and left,
+or if no other means are to be taken, to reverse the image upon the
+copper plate. Professionals use stripping plates especially made for
+this purpose for small work, or the reversed negative may be made in the
+copying camera. A fairly good reversed negative can be made by contact
+in the printing frame from an albumen print from the original negative,
+the print made transparent with white wax by being placed on a piece of
+warm, clean metal and the wax rubbed over the face. To have the negative
+reversed, the print should first be placed, face out, against the glass
+of the printing frame, with its back against the sensitive surface of
+the transparency plate, the back closed in and exposed to a large lamp
+for about five seconds. Every care must be taken that you use the best
+of negatives, carefully retouched if necessary, as the professional
+photographic etchers have informed me that (from their standpoint) the
+success of the whole process depends on the quality of the original
+negative and the care taken in artistic retouching.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+It will often happen in commercial photogravure work that plates have to
+be made from all kinds of original negatives. In cases where these are
+flat from over-exposure it is well to make a carbon transparency;
+intensifying the image with a strong solution of permanganate of potash,
+and from this make a fresh negative upon a slow or Carbutt transparency
+plate.
+
+Mr. Horace Wilmer says: "The class of negative most suitable is such as
+gives a good result by any of the printing processes. A bright sparkling
+negative will always give a good plate, but I do not find that any
+satisfactory results can be got from a soft flat negative. The negative
+should be as perfect as possible. It is absolutely useless to work from
+a faulty negative. Contrasts on it may be increased by retouching. Such
+contrasts are desirable because the tendency of the etching is to reduce
+them somewhat."
+
+Perhaps the simplest way of obtaining a reversed negative is by placing
+the dry plate in the slide film inside and exposing through the glass,
+of course after allowing in focusing for the thickness of the glass
+plate. With the wet-collodion process, usually the method employed by
+large photomechanical printers, this method can be used because it is
+a simple matter to carefully examine the glass plate to be employed,
+but it will be obvious that with the ordinary dry plate all the
+imperfections of the glass, such as dirt, scratches, air-bubbles, etc.,
+will be clearly reproduced in the image.
+
+Another method largely employed to produce reversed negatives direct, is
+by means of a mirror or prism placed either before or behind the lens.
+The prism is the more convenient, but if large sizes are used it becomes
+a costly piece of apparatus. The mirror, which should be a plane of
+glass silvered on its surface, is a less expensive affair. By either of
+these means the reversed negatives can be made direct without suffering
+the least in quality.
+
+With celluloid or other flexible films, printing can, of course, be done
+from either side. Practical men, however, say that, except with the
+very thinnest films, there is an undoubted loss of sharpness in the
+grain when these films are reversed and with some mechanical processes.
+
+Against this, however, it may be said that better contact can be
+obtained in printing than if the film were upon a piece of uneven glass,
+as is often the case, for by backing it with a piece of plate-glass
+perfect contact is ensured everywhere.
+
+We come now to the method of stripping the film from the glass. If the
+negative is made by the collodion process the matter is a simple one.
+The glass is treated with French chalk previous to collodionizing. After
+the negative is made and dried it is laid on a leveling stand and a
+solution of gelatine poured on it. When dry, it is readily stripped by
+running a knife all round. With ordinary dry-plates the method usually
+recommended is to immerse them in dilute hydrofluoric acid. The
+difficulty often experienced here is in the lateral expansion of the
+film. This will largely depend upon the plate, or rather the quality of
+the gelatine used. There are, however, two methods of securing the films
+to some medium unaffected by moisture, and so prevent expansion or
+distortion. The first is that recommended by Mr. A. Pumphrey and the
+second by Mr. H. J. Burton, modified descriptions of which are given in
+a recent number of _The British Journal of Photography_. If the negative
+is varnished this is removed. A thin film of gelatine is moistened in a
+dilute solution of hydrofluoric acid, one part of acid to sixty of
+water. This gelatine film is secured on paper by a coating of
+india-rubber.
+
+The action of the dilute acid is to soften the gelatine, making it very
+adhesive. It can, in this state, be readily attached to the negative by
+squeegeeing. The acid in the film passes through the negative, and
+releases it from the glass. It can then be lifted off and pinned to a
+flat surface to dry. The paper can afterward be stripped off, when dry,
+by moistening the back with a little benzole to dissolve the
+india-rubber. In this manner we get the stripped negative in exactly the
+same size as when on the glass, to which it can be restored at any time
+desired.
+
+Burton, in his method, employs collodion in place of paper as the
+support. The negative is first coated with a thick collodion, and this
+is allowed ten minutes or so to set. It is then immersed in plain water
+until the film loses all appearance of greasiness. A few drops of
+hydrofluoric acid are added to the water, and the dish gently rocked.
+The film will soon detach itself, when the plate should be at once
+rinsed. Another plate previously coated with gelatine, and dried, is
+placed in the dish, and the released film, after reversing, is floated
+upon it, the two removed together, and allowed to dry.
+
+So far we have only treated upon reverse negatives, either obtained at
+once or reversed afterward. It often happens, however, that we have an
+ordinary negative, which is required to be reversed. This negative may
+be a valuable one, and the risk involved in stripping it be too great.
+
+Another simple method of obtaining a reversed negative is by means of
+the powder process. Although this process is an old one, it appears to
+be but little known, for what reason we have never been able to define.
+It is by no means difficult, and by its means a negative can be obtained
+direct from a negative without the intermediate positive transparency.
+
+The principle of the process is this: An organic tacky substance is
+sensitized with potassium dichromate, and exposed under a reversed
+positive to the action of light. All those parts acted upon become hard,
+the stickiness disappearing according to the strength of the light
+action, while those parts protected by the darker parts of the positive
+retain their adhesiveness. If a colored powder be dusted over, it will
+be understood that it will adhere to the sticky parts only, forming a
+visible image, the same being a reproduction of the positive printed
+from. The process is very useful for the production of lantern slides
+and transparencies, or for the reproduction of negatives. Any of the
+following formulæ may be employed for the manufacture of the organic
+substance:--
+
+
+SOLUTION A.
+
+ Gum arabic 25 grammes
+ Grape sugar 60 grammes
+ Purified honey 15 grammes
+ Alcohol, 40 deg 15 c.c.
+ Water 60 c.c.
+
+
+SOLUTION B.
+
+Saturated solution of ammonium dichromate.
+
+Two solutions to be mixed together before using in proportions 15 A,
+25 B, 50 water.
+
+
+WOODBURY'S FORMULA.
+
+ Gum arabic 60 grains
+ Glucose 45 grains
+ Glycerine 10 minims
+ Potassium dichromate 30 grains
+ Distilled water 2 ounces
+
+
+OBERNETTER PROCESS.
+
+ Dextrine 60 grains
+ White sugar 75 grains
+ Ammonium dichromate 30 grains
+ Glycerine 2 to 8 minims
+ Distilled water 3 ounces
+
+The gum is first dissolved and the remainder of the ingredients added.
+It may be necessary to warm the solution in a hot water bath to dissolve
+it. It is then filtered through flannel or clean muslin, and preserved
+for use in well-stoppered bottles. With this solution clear glass plates
+are coated and dried by a gentle heat over a small spirit lamp. The
+plate while still warm is exposed under a reversed positive[C] for from
+two to five minutes in sunlight, and from 10 to 20 minutes in diffused
+light. The image is then but slightly visible. On removing from the
+printing frame the plate is laid in the air (protected from light) for a
+few minutes to absorb a little moisture from it. The next process is the
+"dusting on." If the image is required to be black, fine Siberian
+graphite is spread over it with a soft flat brush. This will adhere to
+the parts unaffected by light, giving an image of the positive. Any
+colored fine powder maybe used, giving images in various colors. When
+fully developed the excess of powder is dusted off and the film coated
+with collodion. After this it is well washed to remove the unaltered gum
+and dichromate salt. The film may, if desired, be detached from the
+plate and used for enamels, ivory, wood, textile fabrics, opals, etc.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+ [C] Reversed as regards right and left.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+THE TRANSPARENCY.
+
+
+Regular transparency gelatine dry plates are the handiest for making
+positives, especially for amateurs, if one does not care if the subject
+is in reverse, or if one has a reversed negative to work from. There is
+a "special" carbon tissue, price $4.00 per roll of 2 × 12 feet, made by
+the Autotype Company, of London, England, with full instructions
+appended; by a system of double transfer, reversed negatives may be
+obtained with this tissue. The "special" tissue is only to be used for
+the transparency. A safe edge of black paper is required on the
+transparency, pasted up exactly to the edge of the picture, on the glass
+side; it comes, sold in strips, gummed, ready for use, about 1/4 inch
+wide; this is required, as the tissue used for the negative resist on
+the copper plate, which is printed from the transparency, must have a
+safe edge, shielded from the light, or it will not attach itself to the
+copper plate, the tissue coming inside half way. The screw pressure
+printing frame should have a piece of heavy felt for backing the
+transparency.
+
+The following instructions for making carbon transparencies will no
+doubt be found useful:
+
+The carbon tissue prepared for this process consists of paper coated
+with gelatine containing carbon, lamp-black, or other pigments.
+
+The Autotype Company, of London, manufacture a special "transparency"
+tissue.
+
+CUTTING UP THE TISSUE is performed by unrolling it gently upon a zinc
+cutting plate, cut square and true, with the inches marked at the bottom
+and right-hand side. By using a T square and observing the numbered
+inches marked on the plate, it will not be difficult to cut the tissue
+to any dimension. If the tissue is very curly and unmanageable it should
+be kept down with convenient weights. After cutting it up to the
+required sizes, which should be conveniently smaller than the dish to
+be used for sensitizing, it should be kept flat under a metal plate.
+
+SENSITIZING THE TISSUE is the next operation. This is performed in a
+solution of potassium dichromate rendered alkaline with ammonia. Tie
+over the mouth of a two-gallon jug a piece of muslin, to form a kind of
+bag, into which place fifteen ounces of potassium dichromate, then fill
+up the jug with water and allow it to stand until the dichromate is
+dissolved and the solution becomes cold. It is sometimes advisable to
+regulate the quantity of dichromate. In hot weather, or for very thin
+negatives, the proportion of water should be doubled, while for very
+hard negatives only half the quantity should be used. In very hot
+weather it is often advantageous to replace about 30 per cent. of the
+water with the same quantity of alcohol.
+
+The operation of sensitizing the tissue must be carried on in a room
+lighted by a window covered with a yellow blind. A flat dish of
+porcelain, glass, or _papier maché_, a squeegee, and a sheet of glass or
+zinc larger than the tissue, will be required.
+
+The solution is poured into the dish, and should be at least two inches
+deep. The tissue is then immersed in it, and the air-bells that form
+immediately brush away from both sides with a broad camel's-hair brush.
+The temperature of the bath should not be higher than 60 deg. Fahr.; and
+the time of immersion should be from three to five minutes. After the
+tissue has remained in the solution for the allotted time it is gently
+removed and laid face downward upon the glass or zinc plate, and the
+back squeegeed, removing all superfluous solution. The tissue is
+removed from the glass and laid over a sheet of cardboard, bent into the
+form of an arch, to dry.
+
+Another method (H. J. Burton's) of sensitizing carbon tissue is to lay
+it flat on a sheet of clean blotting paper, and sponge on the back a
+very strong sensitizing solution composed as follows:
+
+ Potassium dichromate 4 ounces
+ Liquid ammonia fort 1 ounce
+ Water 20 ounces
+
+First mix the ammonia with the water, then grind up and add the
+dichromate.
+
+DRYING THE TISSUE should be accomplished in a room perfectly free from
+the noxious fumes of other chemicals, and lighted only by non-actinic
+light. Tissues sensitized during the evening should be dry on the
+following morning. It should then be cut to the sizes required and kept
+flat in a pressure frame, or other similar contrivance.
+
+EXPOSING THE TISSUE.--The tissue can be exposed behind the negative in
+an ordinary printing frame, or in special frames having no joint in the
+back, as no image is visible. The negative must be furnished with a safe
+edge, made by painting an edge about one-eighth of an inch round the
+negative with black varnish, or by pasting on strips of red or black
+paper. Exposure must be judged by an actinometer. A very suitable
+instrument for timing the exposure of carbon tissue is Sawyer's
+actinometer. It consists of a rectangular tin box with a glass lid,
+bearing twelve tints graduated from slight discoloration to a degree of
+opacity, representing the extreme amount of deposit upon the lights of
+the densest negatives, each division of this screen of tints bearing a
+number in opaque pigments; and a roll of sensitive paper is placed in
+the box, and the end pulled forward so as to pass under the tints. When
+this arrangement is placed in the light, the silver paper commences to
+discolor underneath the graduated screen, beginning of course at the
+lightest, but the number on the tint being in an opaque pigment is
+preserved white, and serves to register the progress of printing; for
+if, when the lid is opened, the number one, for instance, shows clearly
+on a tinted ground, the instrument is said to have registered one tint;
+by that time the number two will have begun to make its appearance, and,
+if sufficient exposure be given, the light will print through the whole
+scale by successive steps, and show up the numbers, one to twelve. With
+an instrument of this kind it is evident that, by exposing alongside the
+carbon tissue and determining the number of tints required for the
+proper exposure of that negative, the same number of tints with the same
+negative will always prove right. A little practice will enable one to
+judge the number of tints required for every class of negative.
+
+It will be well to remark here that freshly sensitized tissue will
+produce inferior pictures to that used a day or two after; the pictures
+are not so hard, and there is less danger of the high-lights being
+washed away.
+
+CONTINUING ACTION OF LIGHT.--If the carbon tissue after exposure to the
+light, be kept in the dark for a little time the effect on the print
+will be precisely the same as if the exposure to light had been
+prolonged. This continuing action of light may often be utilized to
+advantage. Pictures known to be under-exposed will, if kept till
+morning, by that time have acquired the same force as if they had
+received the proper exposure.
+
+DEVELOPMENT consists simply in dissolving the gelatine unaffected by
+light, with hot water as the solvent.
+
+Immerse the exposed tissue in a bath containing cold water. It will
+first of all curl up, but afterward lay flat and limp. It is then placed
+in another bath containing cold water together with a sheet of glass
+which has previously been coated with a 5 per cent. solution of
+gelatine. Bring them together face to face, draw them out, and force
+into close contact with a large squeegee; then place between blotting
+paper for five or ten minutes. In squeegeeing, the tissue should be
+uppermost, and a sheet of American cloth laid over it to prevent the
+squeegee from damaging it.
+
+Development should not be attempted for at least twenty minutes, during
+which time the glass, with the tissue on it, should be placed between
+sheets of blotting paper, and kept under pressure to insure its
+adherence to the glass support. After that time it is placed in a dish,
+and water heated to a temperature of 100 deg. F. added. The colored
+pigment will at once commence to ooze out of the edges, and after a
+little time the paper originally holding the carbon film may be removed
+with the hand. Then, by gently leveling the picture with the hand, the
+superfluous gelatine will be washed away, and if the exposure has been
+correct a perfect image should remain. A certain amount of control can
+be kept over an autotype picture. An over-exposed print will show itself
+by insolubility of the gelatine, and the high light refusing to be
+washed clear. The temperature should be raised considerably, and hot
+water poured over with a jug. If this fails to reduce the intensity, add
+a little ammonia to the water as a last resource, though the better plan
+is to make another print, giving less exposure. Under-exposure results
+in over-solubility of the gelatine. The half-tones will be washed clean
+away. It is rarely an under-exposed print can be saved. All that can be
+done is to reduce the temperature of the water. Development should never
+be hurried; the slower it is the better the gradation of tone in the
+results.
+
+After development is complete the bichromate salt is discharged, and the
+image rendered perfectly insoluble by well washing in cold water and
+placing in a dish containing a 5 per cent. solution of potash alum,
+after which it is again washed and dried.
+
+Another method of making a transparency and one that involves less
+trouble is by means of the transparency plates which are now in the
+market. Of these we have tried Carbutt's with the greatest success. For
+these the following instructions are given:
+
+The requisites are, a deep printing-frame a size larger than the
+negative to be used, with a flat glass bottom clear and free from
+scratches (crystal plate is best), a dark-room Lantern, or other
+artificial light, and Keystone Gelatino-Albumen Plates. Transparencies
+can be made same size of negative by contact and exposure to artificial
+light, or enlarged or reduced in the camera by daylight, with equal
+perfection in result. To make transparencies by contact place one of the
+Keystone thin crystal glass transparency plates over the negative in
+printing-frame, lay piece of dark soft material over it, close down the
+back, and expose to the light of the lantern or to a gas flame or other
+artificial light, for 10 to 30 seconds, according to density of
+negative, at a distance of 20 inches from the flame. Use the following
+developer:
+
+
+EIKONOGEN AND HYDROCHINON DEVELOPER.
+
+A.
+
+ Metric Weight. Avoirdupois Weight.
+
+ 600 c.c.m Distilled Water 20 ounces
+ 120 grammes Sulphite of Soda Crystals 4 ounces
+ 22 grammes Eikonogen 330 grains
+ 10½ grammes Hydrochinon 160 grains
+ 960 c.c.m Water to make up to 32 ounces
+
+B.
+
+ Metric Weight. Avoirdupois Weight.
+
+ 600 c.c.m Distilled Water 20 ounces
+ 60 grammes Carbonate of Potash 2 ounces
+ 60 grammes Carbonate Soda Crystals 2 ounces
+ 960 c.c.m Water to make up to 32 ounces
+
+For use take 1 ounce (30 c.c.) of A, 3/4 ounce (25 c.c.) of B, with 4
+ounces (120 c.c.) of water.
+
+More of A will increase density, more of B will increase detail and
+softness. Temperature of developer should not vary much below 65 deg.
+nor above 75 deg. The after treatment is same as with any other
+developer.
+
+Let the development continue until the blacks look quite strong, and
+detail showing in the high-lights; wash off developer, then immerse in
+
+
+CARBUTT'S NEW ACID FIXING AND CLEARING BATH.
+
+ 4 c.c.m Sulphuric Acid 1 drachm
+ 480 grammes Hyposulphite of Soda 16 ounces
+ 60 grammes Sulphite of Soda 2 ounces
+ 30 grammes [D]Chrome Alum 1 ounce
+ 1920 c.c.m Warm Water 64 ounces
+
+Dissolve the hyposulphite of soda in 48 ounces (1440 c.c.m.) of water,
+the sulphite of soda in 6 ounces (180 c.c.m.) of water; mix the
+sulphuric acid with two ounces (60 c.c.m.) of water, and pour slowly
+into the sulphite soda solution, and add to the hyposulphite; then
+dissolve the chrome alum in 8 ounces (240 c.c.m.) of water and add to
+the bulk of solution, and the bath is ready. This fixing bath will not
+discolor until after long usage, and both clears up the shadows of the
+negative and hardens the film at the same time.
+
+Let remain two or three minutes after transparency is cleared of all
+appearance of silver bromide. Then wash in running water for not less
+than half an hour to free from any trace of hypo solution. Swab the
+surface with wad of wet cotton, rinse, and place in rack to dry
+spontaneously. Then varnish with plain collodion.
+
+ [D] N. B.--During cold weather use only half the quantity
+ of Chrome Alum in above.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+THE CARBON TISSUE--(SENSITIZING AND EXPOSURE).
+
+
+The carbon tissue used as a resist, which is mounted on the copper
+plate, is made by the Autotype Company, London, England. No. 100
+Standard Brown is the right grade to use, though I have reached good
+results with No. 103. The No. 100 is a heavier grade than No. 103, and
+requires two or three minutes longer exposure than the latter. Use a
+deep printing frame with a screw pressure to secure absolute contact,
+which is known by iridescent markings appearing on the glass of the
+printing frame. A Johnson's actinometer is very useful to time the
+exposure. From 4 to 6 tints are necessary. Experience here is the only
+guide, as the light varies as well as the density of the negative and
+the sensitiveness of the tissue. If one does not have an actinometer, a
+slip of albumen paper may be used; as soon as the paper has reached the
+darkest point, which is then called one tint, extend it so that a fresh
+portion comes out to the light, and so on for the different tints. In
+September, for instance, the darkest tint is reached in about 3 to 4
+minutes; two tints and a half or 8 minutes in the shade at midday on a
+clear day in September is about right,--this is understood to be with
+medium negatives and No. 103 tissue sensitized within three days.
+
+You should over-expose rather than under-expose, allowance being made
+when the acid is used. Print deeply, so that, on development, the
+negative tissue on the copper plate shows all the detail clearly in the
+shadows. The tissue should not appear very dark on the plate. The copper
+should show up through the gelatine clearly and brightly. The thinner
+the negative tissue, the quicker the biting of the acid.
+
+
+SENSITIZING THE TISSUE.
+
+The carbon tissue comes only in rolls of 2½ feet by 12 feet, price
+$3.00, not cut. It is not sold in a sensitive condition. Full
+instructions with each roll for sensitizing. Tap water will do, but I
+would suggest distilled water for making the sensitizing solution of
+bichromate of potassium.
+
+ Bichromate of potassium 1 ounce
+ Water 16 ounces
+ Alcohol 1/2 drachm
+ Ammonia 12 drops
+
+The best way to sensitize the tissue, is to place the tissue face up,
+keeping it flat so that the solution reaches all parts at once, removing
+all air bubbles, and rubbing in the solution with the fingers until
+pliant; the time of immersion is three minutes in winter, two minutes in
+summer. The hands should be washed directly after handling the solution,
+and care must be taken that there are no cuts on the fingers, as the
+solution is very harmful, but if due care is exercised and the hands
+well washed immediately with soap, little, if any, trouble will be
+experienced; use rubber finger tips as much as possible. Keep the
+temperature of the solution at 70 deg. both in summer and winter. Take a
+piece of glass free from scratches (an inch larger all round than the
+tissue); have the glass ready cleaned with ammonia and talcum powder of
+fine whiting, squeegee the sensitized carbon tissue directly from the
+solution on to the glass and place to dry at night in a light-tight box;
+it will be dry in the morning.
+
+The tissue is in the best condition for three days after sensitizing; it
+can be used up to seven days; it gradually increases in sensitiveness
+from day to day. After a week or ten days has elapsed, it is hard to
+manage and becomes unreliable. When the tissue is dry take a sharp knife
+and cut inside the edge, and strip off one corner. Fairly good results
+can be reached by simply drying over a curved piece of pulp board,
+which is tied with string on each end, but squeegeeing on glass gives a
+sharper result. The addition of ammonia and alcohol to the sensitizing
+solution makes it easier to strip the paper from the copper plate, after
+the carbon tissue is mounted on the plate, and enables one to develop
+the resist in the water at a lower temperature than without it, thus
+avoiding pits in the darker portions and white specks or bubbles in the
+lights, should the water reach too high a temperature.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+THE CLEANING AND GRAINING OF THE COPPER PLATE, AND GRADE OF COPPER
+NECESSARY, AND WHERE AND HOW TO BUY IT AT REASONABLE PRICES.
+
+
+The best copper is recognized by its rosy lustre. Pure copper only
+should be used. It can be purchased ready polished and beveled from
+several firms in New York. The best way, if large quantities of plates
+are required, is to buy the copper in the rough of one firm and have it
+polished by another, and bevel it yourself if necessary with a file and
+burnish it by hand, or the firm who polish it will do the beveling for
+you.
+
+The Scovill & Adams Co. supply copper-plates of the finest quality,
+ready polished, for photogravure work.
+
+Total cost by this method about one-third less than by purchasing ready
+made. It makes a copper plate 1/16 grade, 9 × 11, cost about $1.10.
+Order your copper 1/16 in. grade up to 10 × 12; larger sizes 1/8 in.
+grade. If you use 1/16 in. grade above this size, the plate is liable to
+buckle. Be sure the plate is free from pits and scratches and with a
+high polish. Have what the polishers and engravers call a rouge polish.
+If they do not supply it, rouge it yourself with powdered rouge and
+turpentine, using a ball of absorbent cotton over a large piece of
+smooth cork. A good way to buy rouge is in the stick; it is more
+economical. Rub the wet cotton on it and the right quantity is assured.
+Pits in the copper may be taken out by tapping upon the back with a nail
+set, using a small piece of polished steel to lay the face of the plate
+on, and localizing the spot with a pair of calipers. The part raised by
+the tapping, cut away with the scraper, then rub the spot with Scotch
+stone and water, then a piece of engraver's charcoal (cut to a pencil
+point), with machine oil; then burnish with the regular engraver's
+burnisher and sperm oil, finishing with rouge and refined turpentine.
+
+When the plate is well polished, make a strong solution of caustic
+potash (C.P.), which comes in sticks, as strong as possible, as long as
+it does not stain the copper. It should register about 40 deg. with an
+actinometer used to test silver solutions.
+
+Take a piece of absorbent cotton and clean the copper with potash (by
+the way, use finger tips); rinse under tap for five minutes, then a
+fresh piece of cotton with alcohol at 95 per cent., rinse again with
+water, and place in warm water for final rinsing; stand up on corner, or
+place in drying frame usually used for negatives; allow to drain. Should
+any stains appear, it must be recleaned and all the operations repeated
+until it drains off without streaks, for these streaks and spots of
+stain are caused by the caustic potassa, which is difficult to remove.
+It is as hard to get rid of from the copper as hyposulphite is from a
+negative. These streaks retard the acid on the copper wherever they
+appear, and cause defects in the recording of the original tones of the
+negative.
+
+The plate is then ready for graining.
+
+
+II.--GRAINING THE COPPER PLATE.
+
+A grain is required on the copper plate so that the tones will be
+reproduced, as copper has not a sufficient grain of its own. The grain
+is given to the copper plate by dusting it with powdered Syrian
+asphaltum or resin. Have a paste-board box made 18 inches high, 12
+inches wide and 8 inches deep, perfectly air-tight, with a small door
+running the whole length on the widest side, an inch or two from the
+bottom. Have the inside of the box perfectly smooth; place within the
+box 4 ounces finely powdered Syrian asphaltum (sold by Messrs. Theodore
+Metcalf & Co., Tremont Street, Boston, Mass.); it is difficult to find
+in New York. Shake the box vigorously, place on table, insert a piece of
+wood an inch high made in shape of cross (or open square, or have
+netting of wire raised an inch from the bottom of the box); the copper
+plate, previously cleaned, is at once placed face up upon it. Instead of
+shaking the box it can be arranged upon supports (see fig. 1), and
+revolved.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
+
+Close the door instantly, and let the plate remain about two minutes;
+carefully remove the plate and place it on a Florence oil lamp, holding
+the plate with a hand vise, watch carefully until the powder disappears
+from the surface and the plate slightly smokes, then stand aside to
+cool. Do not keep the plate too long on the heater, or the particles of
+dust will run together, forming an impenetrable varnish over the plate.
+This part of the process is not difficult, but requires practice.
+Preserve each atom of dust as much as possible, examine with magnifying
+glass and, when cool, test with finger nail; if it rubs off easily, it
+has not been heated enough; then the plate must be re-cleaned and again
+powdered. To get a good all-round working grain, suitable for medium
+subjects, the plate should be placed at once in the box after shaking;
+thus the coarser particles that fall first, and the finer, which
+gradually settle, will combine after two or three minutes.
+
+Many combinations will be suggested to the student by practice to suit
+the subject; for instance, waiting for two minutes and then inserting
+the plate, gives a fine grain for delicate subjects. Powdered dragon's
+blood (resin) in combination with asphaltum makes a beautiful grain; a
+separate box may be used for the dragon's blood; the asphaltum first
+dusted on the plate, then inserted in the dragon's blood box for twenty
+or thirty seconds, then melted together. The dragon's blood melts first,
+then the asphaltum.
+
+The air brush is also used by professionals; it throws a resinous spirit
+varnish, coarse or fine, as required.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+DEVELOPMENT OF NEGATIVE RESIST ON THE COPPER PLATE, AND PREPARATION FOR
+BITING WITH ACID THROUGH THE GELATINE.
+
+
+Have a wooden box made 24 inches long, by 12 inches high, 12 inches
+wide, with door 6 inches high on side, fastened with hinges, top and
+bottom of box open; cover top with sheet zinc. Place inside Florence oil
+lamp; the door is valuable to regulate the heat. On top of box place
+deep porcelain tray, 11 × 14, fill with water half full; in the water
+place two pieces of plate glass 1/2 inch high and 4 inches long, on
+which to place copper to keep it from the bottom of the tray. Slide the
+copper plate into the water, removing all air bubbles, keeping the
+fingers off the surface of the plate. Take the sensitized and exposed
+tissue and place face down in the cold water (65 deg.) sliding it
+gradually in at further end of the paper so as to avoid air bubbles; the
+instant the paper curls backward, place it over the copper plate and
+remove it quickly from the water. This has to be done with celerity or
+it will be found difficult to mount the tissue with the squeegee on the
+copper, and also it should be exactly placed with reference to the top
+and sides of the copper; all this, of course, to be done under water,
+never allow it to slip up out of it. Place plate on table and squeegee
+into place, stroking firmly from the centre, each way. Place face down
+on clean blotting paper, under heavy weight for fifteen minutes. While
+plate is under pressure (which is necessary to enable the gelatine to
+expand and attach itself to the plate), start the lamp gradually, and by
+the time the paper is ready the water should register on the thermometer
+75 deg. Slide the plate under water removing air bubbles as they
+appear, with a ball of absorbent cotton; when the heat of the water
+reaches 90 deg. Fahr., the gelatine commences to ooze from all around
+the edges of the paper, and after the plate has remained in the water
+about ten minutes after the showing up of the gelatine (at the
+temperature from 90 to 95 deg.), take a pin and carefully raise the
+paper at the corner, gradually pulling away the paper toward the
+opposite corner, keeping the hand close to the water; should the
+gelatine which adheres to the plate appear to lift, wait a few minutes
+longer and start another corner. After the paper is stripped from the
+plate, gently develop the negative resist with a piece of fresh
+absorbent cotton, delicately rubbing the surface, edges first, and lave
+the plate up and down in the water, keeping the temperature steadily at
+90 to 95 deg., by raising or lowering the lamp. (Should the paper be
+under-exposed and appear very black on the copper, develop at 100 to 110
+deg., not over. If over-exposed it will appear very thin, and the heat
+of the water must not go over 90 deg.; it will strip at 88 to 90 deg.)
+Then the negative image gradually appears, the darks first, which are of
+course the brightest portions; when all detail appears in the shadows
+and the negative stands out clear and bright, take it out of the
+dark-room (which is lighted with an ordinary lamp), and gently wash
+under the tap with clean and cold water at 65 to 70 deg.
+
+Dry the resist with alcohol, pouring it over the plate from one end,
+starting with half alcohol and half water, gradually adding more alcohol
+and eliminating the water, until a final flooding with absolute alcohol
+is reached; use fresh solutions of alcohol and water for each copper;
+don't use old alcohol for anything except cleaning the copper at the
+end, and for removing the spirit varnish. Stand up to dry against the
+wall, face out, and standing square on the bottom of the plate, in the
+same position as you flooded it with alcohol; it will be dry in twenty
+minutes if rightly flooded. The bare copper should now be protected by a
+strong varnish in alcohol (it must flow freely off the brush); a good
+varnish for this purpose, and the best I know of, is an etcher's
+asphaltum stopping-out varnish, sold by Messrs. Devoe & Co., New York;
+price 50 cents per bottle. Should it get thick as you come to the bottom
+of the bottle, add a little spirits of lavender until it flows again
+freely. Take an architect's ruling pen and carefully rule a line with
+the varnish up to the edge of the picture, making it exactly true with
+the sides of the plate and the space on each side of the work the same
+with the top, the bottom space slightly larger; make sure that it
+slightly comes inside the picture. Keep the rule away from the surface
+of the gelatine, as it is very delicate. Then cover all the rest of the
+copper, protecting the bare parts and bevel, and bringing the varnish up
+to the line. Allow to dry hard; about twenty minutes will do. Form a
+wall about the resist, with walling wax, about an inch high; make a lip
+at one corner, the further left hand one, for instance; see that there
+are no leaks. There are several grades of wax, but Liedel & Co.'s is the
+best; when ordering you should give the name as modeling wax; gray is a
+good color. Pans can be used made of tin and varnished, or porcelain
+trays, protecting the back and edges of the plate with varnish, but I
+find the wax very helpful, especially on large plates.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+THE ACID BATHS.--HOW TO MAKE THEM AND METHOD OF BITING THROUGH THE
+GELATINE.
+
+
+Perchloride of iron C.P. is the acid generally used for this purpose; it
+is a still acid, and if the room is well ventilated no harm to health
+results, but care must be taken to air the baths after making to get rid
+of the surplus chlorine.
+
+Four baths are used, each of different strengths, the strongest is used
+first, the weakest last. I quote from the catalogue of the Boston Art
+Museum, of the exhibition illustrating the technical methods of the
+Reproductive Arts and Photo-Mechanical Processes, held January 8, 1892:
+"Photo-aquatint (photogravure) for the production of half-tone intaglio
+plates from photographs from nature, paintings, etc. A dry aquatint
+ground is laid on a metal plate, and over this is mounted a gelatine
+negative film, made by the pigment printing process. To obtain this
+negative film a _reversed_ positive on glass has first to be made. The
+reason why this positive must be reversed will become clear when the
+nature of the manipulations in the pigment printing process, which
+involves the turning of the film, are considered. The film mounted on
+the plate is a washout relief, thickest in those parts which are to show
+white in the impressions from the plate, and gradually growing thinner
+toward the darkest parts, where it is thinnest. The film acts as a
+'resist' to the mordant, allowing it to pass freely in the thinnest
+parts, and less freely as it increases in thickness. If, however, the
+film were mounted on the bare plate, and the biting then proceeded with,
+the result would be of no practical use, as the plate would present
+merely shallow hollows, incapable of holding the ink, and which would
+therefore be wiped out in the attempt to clean the surface of the plate.
+This is, however, prevented by the aquatint ground, which allows the
+mordant to circulate only in the channels around the resinous particles
+of which it consists, and thus produces a grain precisely as in ordinary
+aquatinting. The mordant used in perchloride of iron, which is a 'still
+mordant,' _i.e._, one which does not evolve bubbles of gas. An
+effervescent mordant cannot be used as the bubbles rising under the film
+would tear it up. In biting, successive baths of varying strength are
+made.
+
+"A strong solution of perchloride of iron penetrates only the thinner
+parts of the film, whereas a weaker acts also through the thicker parts.
+The biting, therefore, begins with a strong solution, which acts only in
+the darkest parts, and followed up with weaker and weaker solutions,
+which continue the biting in the darks and at the same time carry it on
+gradually toward the lights. If necessary, the plate is worked over with
+the burnisher to brighten the lights, and with roulettes, etc., to
+strengthen the darks."
+
+Purchase nine (9) pounds of perchloride of iron in crystals (45 cents
+per pound), take a wide-mouthed gallon jar, place within half a gallon
+of distilled water, add the iron until it tests 30 deg. by a Beaumé
+hydrometer, pour off enough to fill a one-litre glass stoppered bottle,
+after filtering through absorbent cotton. Keep adding the iron to the
+jar until the strength of each bath is reached. To the strongest
+solution add half a drachm of C. P. muriatic acid, and to the weakest
+half a drachm C. P. nitric acid; the nitric acid is added so that in the
+last biting a good final nip is given to the copper.
+
+I here give my own formula, with those recommended by others.
+
+The four (4) baths should be well aired for a day (in broad pans) in the
+open air before filtering.
+
+
+FORMULA FOR ACID BATHS.
+
+(H. R. BLANEY.)
+
+ No. 1 should register to Beaumé's scale 42 deg.
+ No. 2 " " " " " 37 deg.
+ No. 3 " " " " " 33 deg.
+ No. 4 " " " " " 30 deg.
+
+The temperature of the bath to be at 63 deg. Fahr. when tested.
+
+(DENISON'S.)
+
+No. 1 should be made to register Beaumé's scale, 45 deg., the percentage
+of perchloride in this solution is 47, and the specific gravity 1.444.
+
+ No. 2, 40 deg.; percentage, 41; spec. grav. 1.375
+ No. 3, 38 " " 38; " 1.339
+ No. 4, 35 " " 35; " 1.313
+ No. 5, 27 " " 27; " 1.225
+
+From an article in the _Photographic News_ (English), Nov. 1, 1889, as
+practiced in India.
+
+
+BITING BATH.
+
+(WATERHOUSE.)
+
+ No. 1, sp. grav., 1.444; ap. per ct. of Fe_{2}, Cl_{6} = 47
+ No. 2, " 1.375; " " 41
+ No. 3, " 1.339; " " 38
+ No. 4, " 1.313; " " 35
+ No. 5, " 1.225; " " 27
+
+A stronger solution of 48 deg. has been tried (by the above) but has no
+penetrating power through even the thinnest film.
+
+
+ANOTHER FORMULA.
+
+For large plates, 20 lbs. perchloride of iron and distilled water, until
+weight amounts to 1.500 grammes per 1000 c.c. From this four (4)
+solutions are made, at
+
+ No. 1, 42 deg. Beaumé; spec. grav. 1.420
+ No. 2, 38 " " " 1.375
+ No. 3, 35 " " " 1.330
+ No. 4, 31 " " " 1.285
+
+The plate is now ready for biting. Keep a record of the bitings, and
+length of time for each one, for after-study; also note the time of
+exposure of the tissue, age of same, etc., etc.
+
+Pour the acid from a glass graduate with one sweep over the plate,
+removing all bubbles with a feather, noting the time of immersion so as
+to guide you. Start with 42 deg., having ready the 37 deg. in another
+graduate, watch carefully the action of the acid, and if the resist has
+been properly printed, the action of the acid will show after a minute;
+if longer it means a generally longer biting for each bath.
+
+
+AVERAGE BITINGS.
+
+ 42 deg., No. 1 5 minutes
+ 37 deg., No. 2 5 minutes
+ 33 deg., No. 3 2 minutes
+ 30 deg., No. 4 2 minutes
+
+ Temperature of bath at 70 deg. Fahr., with No. 103 tissue.
+
+Total of different bitings, from 10 to 25 minutes, according to depth of
+printing. It always varies. There is no hard and fast rule; you must in
+time learn to judge by your eye alone. The acid will first attack the
+thinnest part of the film, wherever that may be, and when the darkening
+of the copper ceases to spread to the next thickest parts, instantly
+pour off the acid, and pour on the 37 deg. Do not allow the atmosphere
+to act on the gelatine while biting any longer than is necessary to pour
+off one bath and quickly pour on a new one. The 37 and 33 deg. baths are
+for the middle tones, the 30 deg. for the most delicate ones. The action
+of each bath is cumulative, the 37 deg. biting a little where the 42
+deg. had bitten, the 33 deg. doing the same for those before it, besides
+taking care of itself, and the 30 deg. attacking all more or less.
+During the biting with the 30 deg. solution, it should be continued
+until the whites just turn color, and a minute beyond; that is, the
+copper should begin to show a very little under the thickest and darkest
+film.
+
+(Note that in the carbon resist the shadows are transparent and the high
+lights are opaque.)
+
+The length of the last biting very seldom is over two minutes. It is
+better to overbite your darks, and underbite your lights, if you vary
+any.
+
+The amount of moisture in the air and the heat of the day influences the
+length of biting. In hot weather in summer it is very difficult to work
+the process, the walling wax being discarded and the copper (back and
+edges protected by varnish) placed in a porcelain tray, surrounded by
+ice-water and kept at 65 to 70 deg., and the acid pured over the plate
+to the depth of one inch.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+CLEANING AND POLISHING THE PLATE, WITH TOOLS NECESSARY FOR RETOUCHING.
+
+
+When the biting is finished rapidly place the plate under the tap and
+rinse thoroughly, breaking away the film with your fingers; it seems to
+have rotted under the action of the acid and is easily removed.
+
+Remove the walling wax, clean off the varnish with chloroform or
+turpentine, or alcohol first, and chloroform last. This leaves a dim
+picture on the plate, with a kind of scum over it; wet the plate with
+turpentine and start heavily with rouge, rubbing to and fro equally all
+over the plate with a ball of absorbent cotton; continue this treatment,
+using less and less rouge and more turpentine until you give the final
+polish to the high lights with a clean dry piece of cotton. Be very
+careful not to overdo in rouging; the scum (if the biting of the plate
+is of medium strength) should clear from the plate with hardly a touch,
+and with very little rouging. Some plates require a great deal of
+rouging; it then generally means that you must look to your sensitizer.
+I again draw your attention to the rouging; here is where any artistic
+feeling you may possess will come into play with taste and patience.
+
+After the plate is rouged sufficiently, an engraver's burnisher is used
+to clean up the highest lights and to modify others. Two or three
+roulettes of different fineness are valuable to touch up any darks that
+need deepening; it matches very well with the grain, but I am always
+trying to dispense with the use of the roulettes; one ought to get it
+with the acid alone. A No. 6 sewing needle in a holder (dentist's
+pin-holder, screw end) is necessary to touch out occasional white
+specks. You will have plenty of them at first unless you look out
+carefully for dust on the film; keep all your solutions constantly
+attended to by occasional filtering, and don't use your sensitizing
+solution more than half a dozen times; keep it well corked; if it gets
+old it scums the plate too much.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+PRINTING THE PLATE AND STEEL FACING.
+
+
+Before final finishing by hand a working proof should be printed from
+the plate by an expert plate printer, by which, what the plate needs can
+be determined before final proving.
+
+Have the plate proved on different papers, and with different colored
+inks, so as to judge the effect. Imperial Japan is the best paper,
+besides etching paper, India, thin Chinese and Japanese papers. The cost
+of proving per single proof is 25 cents for a 4 × 6 plate on Imp. Japan,
+about $2.00 per doz. same paper; etching paper, about $5.00 per
+100--less for large quantities.
+
+A second-hand D press, suitable for printing large or small editions or
+for proving, can be bought in Boston or New York for from $75 to $100.
+For instructions in printing see Hamerton's "Etchers and Etching."
+
+
+STEEL FACING.
+
+The life of a photogravure plate without steel facing does not last much
+beyond 75 impressions, so that if an edition is needed, send the plate
+to any good printer who will have it steel-faced for you; their charges
+are very moderate, about 50 cents for a 4 × 6 plate. The steel-facing is
+accomplished by first making the plate chemically clean, as before
+preparation for graining, only be very thorough in using an old
+tooth-brush to get out the dirt and in addition use chloroform before
+using potash. Then solder a copper wire on to the back. The negative
+wire is attached to the copper plate. To the positive pole of the quart
+Smee battery is fastened a bright steel plate same size of copper, in a
+gallon jar. The plates are hung from glass rods 1/2 inch apart, a
+sufficient quantity of the following solution to be poured into the jar:
+
+(DENISON'S.)
+
+ Warm water 20 ounces
+ Ammonium chloride 3 ounces
+ Sulphate of iron and ammonia 4 ounces
+
+Filter, and let stand for 24 hours. Five (5) minutes will cover the
+plate with a thin film of steel.
+
+
+(OBERNETTER'S.)
+
+"Place the copper plate in a porcelain tray on the bottom of which rests
+a brightly burnished copper wire, the negative pole.
+
+"The anode on the positive pole, a bright steel plate, is suspended over
+the copper plate, and kept in motion while the circuit is closed. A
+precipitate of steel, resembling silver in appearance, must instantly
+occur upon the copper plate, any air-bells to be removed. Five minutes
+is sufficient to deposit a perfect steel coating." Grease the plate
+after steel facing, to keep off the rust. Formula:
+
+(OBERNETTER'S.)
+
+ Distilled water 1 litre
+ Chloride of ammonium 60 grammes
+ Proto sulphate of iron 30 grammes
+ Iron alum 30 grammes
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+MATERIALS NECESSARY FOR PHOTOGRAVURE, AND LIST OF FIRMS SUPPLYING THEM.
+
+
+_Materials._
+
+ Printing Frame (deep), 8 × 10, screw pressure, $8.
+ Roll Carbon Tissue, No. 100; Standard Brown, $3.
+ Johnson Actinometer, $1.25.
+ Beaumé Hydrometer, $1.25 (with glass).
+ Silver " (argentometer) 75c.
+ Engravers' Scraper, $1.75, best grade.
+ " Burnisher, $1.75, "
+ Powder Box for graining (paste-board), $1.
+ Powdered Syrian Asphaltum, $1 per pound.
+ Nine (9) pounds Perchloride of Iron (C. P. crystals), 45c. per pound.
+ Stick Rouge, 20c.
+ Turpentine, 20c. (refined).
+ Alcohol (95 per cent.).
+ Modeling Wax, $1.25.
+ One Ps. Scotch Stone, 25c.
+ One dozen Glass Blowers' Charcoal, $2.00 per dozen sticks (for
+ polishing copper).
+ One pound Absorbent Cotton, 50c.
+ One pound Caustic Potash C. P. (sticks).
+ One Porcelain Tray, deep, 11 × 14, $3.50.
+ One Florence Hand Lamp, 75c.
+ One Squeegee.
+ Three Roulettes, $1.50 each.
+ Hand Vise, 75c.
+ Calipers, 50c.
+ Dairy Thermometer, 25 c.
+ One bottle Etchers' Varnish, 50c.
+ One ounce Chloroform, 20c.
+ Six ounces Bichromate Potassium.
+ One pound Concentrated Ammonia.
+
+
+LIST OF FIRMS SUPPLYING MATERIALS FOR PHOTOGRAVURE.
+
+The Scovill & Adams Co., 423 Broome Street. Photographic Materials and
+Photo-Engravers' Supplies.
+
+Messrs. Bestgen & Co., 1001 Washington Street, Boston, Mass. Polishers
+of Copper Plates.
+
+Mr. George Schard, 116 Wooster Street, New York. Polisher Copper Plates.
+
+Mr. Jos. Wheeler, 299 Washington Street, Boston, Mass. Printer of
+Photogravures.
+
+Messrs. J. H. Daniels & Co., Oliver Street, Boston, Mass. Printers of
+Photogravures.
+
+Messrs. Frost & Adams, Cornhill, Boston, Mass. Engravers' and Etchers'
+Supplies.
+
+Messrs. F. W. Devoe & Co., Fulton Street, New York. Engravers' and
+Etchers' Supplies.
+
+Messrs. Fusch & Lang, 29 Warren Street, New York. Engravers' Supplies.
+
+Mr. Alfred Sellers, 58 Fulton Street, New York. Engravers' Supplies
+(screw pressure printing frames).
+
+Messrs. John Sellers & Sons, 17 Dey Street, New York. Engravers'
+Supplies.
+
+Messrs. Eimer & Amend, 18th Street and 3d Avenue, New York. Chemists,
+Glassblowers Charcoal.
+
+Messrs. Theodore Metcalf & Co., Tremont Street, Boston, Mass. Chemists.
+
+Messrs. Kimmel & Voigt, 242 Canal Street, New York. Expert Photogravure
+Printers.
+
+Messrs. Whitely & Co., Centre Street, New York. Polisher of Copper
+Plates.
+
+Messrs. Gilderslieve & Co., 18th Street, New York. Blankets for Press.
+
+Mr. Charles Creedner, 19 South William Street, Room 4, New York. Japan
+Paper.
+
+Mr. Geo. B. Sharp, 13 Baxter Street, New York. Copper Plates.
+
+Messrs. F. A. Ringler, 21 Barclay Street, New York. Steel Facing Copper
+Plates, Printers of Photogravures.
+
+Messrs. Leidel & Co., 901 6th Avenue, corner 51st Street, New York.
+Modeling Wax; Etchers' Supplies.
+
+Thomas Hall (Electrician), Bromfield Street, Boston, Mass. Hydrometers
+(Smee's Battery), etc.
+
+New York Steel and Copper Plate Co., 171 Wallabout Street, Brooklyn,
+N. Y.
+
+Mr. Jas. Moffet, 159 Wooster Street, New York. Copper Plates in the
+Rough.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+BOOKS AND ARTICLES ON PHOTOGRAVURE. PUBLISHED FROM 1888 TO 1893.
+
+
+LA PHOTOGRAVURE facile et à bon marché. Par l'Abbé Ferret. Paris. 1889.
+Price, 1 fr. 25 cents.
+
+Manuel d'Heliographie et de Photogravure en Relief. Par G. Bonnet. 1890.
+Paris. 2 fr. 50 cents.
+
+Photogravure. By W. T. Wilkinson. 1890. London, E. C. Published by
+Messrs Iliffe & Son, 3 St. Bride Street. Price, 1_s._ 6_d._
+
+Photo-Engraving and Photo-Etching. By W. T. Wilkinson. Sold by The
+Scovill & Adams Co., New York. Price, $3.00.
+
+Hamerton's "Etchers and Etching." Roberts Bros., Boston, Mass. Price,
+$4.00.
+
+Photo-Etching in India. Article in _Photographic News_ (English),
+November 1, 1889.
+
+"Photogravure, or Photographic Etching on Copper." By Herbert Denison. A
+lecture delivered before the Photographic Society of Great Britain.
+Printed in THE PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES, April 21st, 1893, and following
+issues.
+
+Photogravure or Photo-Etching. Article in _Wilson's Magazine_,
+1890-1891.
+
+Notes on Photo-Aquatint. Catalogue of Exhibition, Illustrating the
+Reproductive Arts and Photo-Mechanical Processes. Address S. R. Koehler,
+Boston Art Museum, Boston, Mass.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+ Merck's Pyrogallic Acid
+
+
+ will be found, upon comparison, to be _superior_ in every respect to
+ all other brands on the market. Its distinctive points of superiority
+ are:
+
+ 1ST.--ABSOLUTE PURITY
+ 2D.--PERFECT CRYSTALLIZATION
+ 3D.--IMMACULATE WHITENESS
+ 4TH.--EXTREME LIGHTNESS
+ 5TH.--MODERATE COST
+
+ (Its price is not higher than that of any other make.)
+
+ [Illustration]
+
+
+ Merck's Pyrogallic Acid
+
+ produces the highest intensity to be desired in a photographic plate,
+ and, at the same time, the finest detail in light and shade required
+ for the most perfect printing negative.
+
+ Under ordinary precaution, it retains all its superior qualities
+ undiminished for an indefinite length of time.
+
+ WHEN ORDERING SPECIFY "=MERCK'S.="
+ TO BE HAD OF ALL DEALERS.
+
+
+ TESTIMONIALS.
+
+
+ "I have tested Merck's pyro carefully in comparison with the other
+ pyros at present on the market, and I find that it is superior to
+ any and all of them."
+
+ Prof. CHARLES EHRMANN,
+ Instructor of the Chautauqua School of Photography.
+
+
+ "I shall, in future, certainly use no other pyro but Merck's. The
+ best is always good enough for me."
+
+ ALFRED STIEGLITZ,
+ Editor _American Amateur Photographer_.
+
+
+ "Merck's Pyrogallic Acid will be found a very superior article. Its
+ purity is absolute, with quick crystallization and immaculate
+ whiteness. In use, it produces the highest intensity that can be
+ desired in the negatives. The detail in light and shade is perfect,
+ producing printing qualities unsurpassed by any pyro we have ever
+ used."
+
+ ST. LOUIS AND CANADIAN PHOTOGRAPHER.
+
+
+ "Merck's pyro has undergone a severe test in my hands. I find it to
+ possess many qualities which give it superiority over all other
+ makes. Authorities place the solubility of pyro as one part in two
+ of water. I found one ounce of Merck's to dissolve readily in 1:7 of
+ water at 60°. It is extremely light, pure, and of a fine white
+ color, giving rich negatives full of vigor and sparkling
+ brilliancy."
+
+ WALTER E. WOODBURY,
+ Editor of _The Photographic Times_.
+
+
+ "I have used Merck's Pyrogallic Acid, and prefer it to all others."
+
+ B. W. KILBURN,
+ Official Photographer (Stereoscopic), at the Columbian World's
+ Fair, and San Francisco Mid-Winter Exposition.
+
+
+ "I have tried Merck's pyro and must certainly say it is the best I
+ ever used. The results I have obtained with it are remarkably fine."
+
+ W. B. POST,
+ Amateur Photographer, New York.
+
+
+ MORENO STUDIO, Fifth Ave., New York.
+
+ "I have been using Merck's pyro in my studio, and am very well
+ pleased with it. It is clean, gives brilliant negatives, and is
+ reliable, one day's work being exactly the same as another's."
+
+ A. MORENO.
+
+
+ "I have been using Merck's pyro, and am ready to indorse the high
+ praise which you have found it entitled to: 'that it is superior in
+ point of purity, lightness and solubility' to any like product that
+ I have seen. In fact, 'the new and improved process' seems to reach
+ in its result the point beyond which it is impossible to go--that
+ is, perfection. This was my impression at first sight, and using
+ serves only to confirm it.
+
+ In my opinion, pyro stands at the head of all developers of dry
+ plates, and I am much mistaken if Merck's pyro, when known, does not
+ lead all brands of pyro."
+
+ W. H. SHERMAN,
+ Professional Photographer, Milwaukee.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ Scovill & Adams Photo-Engraving Materials,
+ Combined in a small outfit for Half-tone Photo-Engraving.
+
+ The articles contained in this outfit are all that is necessary for
+ the Half-tone Process, except when the installation of large and
+ expensive machinery is warranted.
+
+ 1 10 x 12 American Optical Co. Enlarging, Reducing and
+ Copying Camera, fitted with Patent Screen Plate
+ Holder $56.00
+ 1 Camera Swing 20.00
+ 1 Copy Board 2.00
+ 1 Max Levy Screen, 133 lines to the inch, 10 x 12 80.00
+ 1 Max Levy Screen, 150 lines to the inch, 10 x 12 95.00
+ 1 Rectilinear Lens, Rapid Paragon, 10 x 12, w. D. 68.00
+ 2 2-qt. Funnels, glass, 25c. .50
+ 6 8-oz. " " 12c. .72
+ 1 pkg. No. 33 Filtering Paper .75
+ 2 Hydrometers, 50c. 1.00
+ 2 11 x 14 Glass Baths in Studio Box, $7 14.00
+ 1 Rubber Dipper .60
+ 1 2-gall. Evap. Dish 3.00
+ 2 10 x 12 Porcelain Trays, $1.66 3.32
+ 2 10 x 12 Vulcanite Trays, $1.75 3.50
+ 2 16-oz. Graduates, 75c. 1.50
+ 4 4-oz. " 30c. 1.20
+ 1 9 x 11 Printing Frame, 1-in. glass 9.50
+ 1 8 x 10 Retouching Frame 3.75
+ 2 large Neg. Racks 6.00
+ 1 13-in. French Hand Roller 7.00
+ 1 Composition Roller, 12-in. 4.00
+ 2 Pincers 2.00
+ 2 Acid Brushes 3.50
+ 1 Ink Spatula 1.00
+ 1 Hook for cutting Zinc Plates 1.50
+ Retouching Brushes .50
+ 1 gal. Absolute Alcohol 4.00
+ 3½ lbs. Ether 2.63
+ 4 oz. Pary's Gun Cotton, 50c. 2.00
+ 4 oz. Iodide Potass., 30c. 1.20
+ 2 oz. Resubl. Iodine, 35c. .70
+ 3 lbs. Nitrate Silver Crystal, $8.50 25.50
+ 1 lb. Absorbent Cotton, 1 lb. packages .75
+ 5 lbs. Protosulph. Iron, 10c. .50
+ 1 lb. Citric Acid .70
+ 1 " Bichloride Mercury 1.00
+ 5 " Cyanide Potash 3.25
+ 1 " Glycerine .30
+ 5 b'ks Blue Litmus Paper, 5c. .25
+ 1 lb. Aqua Ammonia fort. .32
+ 1/2 lb. Nitric Acid, C. P. .45
+ 1 gall. Benzole 1.50
+ 1 lb. Bichromate Ammonia .75
+ 1 " Caustic Potash .15
+ 8 " Com'l Nitric Acid, 45c. 3.60
+ 1 " Ferri Chloride, 1 bot. .30
+ 1 " Rubber Cement, 1 can .30
+ 1 " Nitrate Lead, 1 bot. 1.00
+ 1 " Ferricyan. Potash, 1 bot. 1.00
+ 1/2 " Transfer Ink 2.50
+ 1/2 " Engraver's Charcoal 1.50
+ 1 " Pumice Stone .10
+ 5 " Sulphate Copper, 40c. 2.00
+ 2 " 3/8-in. Brass Pins, 40c. .80
+ 1 " Lith. Ink, black 3.50
+ 2 galls. Le Page's Liquid Glue, $2.25 4.50
+ 1 Shoot Board and Plane 25.00
+ 1 set Engraving Tools 1.50
+ 1 " Finishing " 2.50
+ 1 ½-in. Flat File .50
+ 1 1-in. " .85
+ 1 set Ass'd Sable Pencils, Nos. 1 to 6 .62
+ 1 Darlot Focusing Glass 2.50
+ 1 5-in. Engraver's Pad, filled 1.00
+ 1 Egg Beater .30
+ 1 set Roulettes 6.00
+ 1 ream Proof Paper 10.00
+ 1 16-oz. plain Collodion Vial .55
+ 1 lb. best Dragon's Blood .85
+ Polished Zinc Plates, sq. in. .01
+ " Copper " " .01¼
+
+ SEND FOR THE PHOTO-ENGRAVERS' CATALOGUE to
+ THE SCOVILL & ADAMS CO., 423 Broome St., N.Y.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ Copying Cameras
+ FOR
+ PHOTO-ENGRAVING.
+
+ The Scovill Enlarging, Reducing and Copying Cameras.
+
+ With S. & A. Photo-Engravers' Adjustable Screen Plate Holder.
+
+ [Illustration]
+
+ No. 61. Size, 6½ × 8½, 4 ft. bed Price, $38.00
+ " 62. " 8 × 10, 5 ft. bed " 43.00
+ " 63. " 10 × 12, 5 " " 56.00
+ " 64. " 11 × 14, 5 " " 68.00
+ " 65. " 14 × 17, 6 " " 80.00
+ " 66. " 17 × 20, 7 " " 95.00
+ " 67. " 20 × 24, 7 " " 118.00
+
+ _Special sizes and styles made to order._
+
+ The form of construction of this Camera is made apparent
+ by the illustration here shown.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ SCOVILL
+ COPYING CAMERAS.
+
+ With S. & A. Photo-Engravers' Adjustable Screen Plate Holder.
+
+ [Illustration]
+
+ These Cameras are made of hardwood, shellacked, not varnished.
+ Naturally they are without swing, but in every requisite they are
+ complete; and for this particular service, as well as others, the
+ American Optical Company's make is sought for before all others.
+ Such varied lengths of bed are required and ordered, that we can
+ only give a price list for Copying Cameras with the regulation
+ length of bed. We make them to order of any length of platform
+ desired, either rigid or detachable, and with either single or
+ double bellows.
+
+ Estimates promptly and cheerfully furnished.
+
+ No. 70. 6½ × 8½, with bed 3 feet in length Price, $33.00
+ " 71. 8 × 10, " 3¾ " " 38.00
+ " 72. 10 × 12, " 4 " " 46.00
+ " 73. 11 × 14, " 4½ " " 53.00
+ " 74. 14 × 17, " 5 " " 66.00
+ " 75. 17 × 20, " 6 " " 72.00
+ " 76. 20 × 24, " 6 " " 98.00
+
+ _Larger sizes made to order._
+
+ When ordering Copying Camera, please give length of cone, if that is
+ needed.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ The S. & A. Photo-Engravers' Adjustable Screen Plate Holder.
+
+ [Illustration]
+
+ (Patent applied for.)
+
+ This Holder, as is shown in the cut above, is a great improvement
+ over any heretofore manufactured for photo-engraving purposes. Its
+ principal points of superiority are, briefly:
+
+ First.--The ease with which it is adjusted for different size plates
+ and screens, by a simple sliding movement of the two inside frames
+ to or from the centre, and thus dispensing with the expensive and
+ troublesome use of kit frames.
+
+ Second.--The convenience by which the screen plate is accurately
+ adjusted to the sensitized plate by means of the metallic sliding
+ adjusters. (Heretofore it has been necessary to do the adjusting by
+ means of inserting different thicknesses of cardboard, paper, etc.)
+
+ Third.--Different thicknesses in the screen plates are allowed for
+ by means of a spring which always holds the plate in accurate place,
+ no matter what its thickness may be.
+
+ Fourth.--A graduated scale on each screen adjuster makes it easy to
+ always insure absolute accuracy in determining the distance of the
+ screen plate from the wet plate.
+
+ Fifth.--The simplicity of construction and excellent workmanship of
+ the entire holder, being made, as it is, in the factory of the
+ famous American Optical Company.
+
+ And, altogether, it is an ingeniously designed and beautifully
+ constructed holder, which will be found of indispensable aid to the
+ practical photographer.
+
+ These holders are thicker than the ordinary plate holders, and if it
+ is desired to use them on a camera the ground glass of which is
+ focused for the ordinary plate holder, a new ground glass frame is
+ necessary in order to adjust the focus. When ordering a holder to
+ fit a camera in use, send the old holder or the old ground glass
+ frame, so that the new ones can be made to fit the camera. Also
+ state the size of largest and smallest screen plate to be used in
+ holder.
+
+ It is made in various sizes. Prices as follows: Frames _only_;
+ for Ground Glass.
+
+ 8 × 10 size $15.50 $1.50
+ 10 × 12 " 21.00 1.50
+ 11 × 14 " 26.50 1.88
+ 14 × 17 " 29.00 2.25
+ 17 × 20 " 32.50 2.63
+ 18 × 22 " 36.00 2.63
+ 20 × 24 " 40.75 3.00
+
+ If adjustment from the outside of holder is desired, add $2.00 to
+ above prices.
+
+ THE SCOVILL & ADAMS CO., 423 Broome St., New York City.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ The Scovill Printing Frames for Photo-Engraving.
+
+ [Illustration]
+
+ The Printing Frames made by the American Optical Co. for
+ photo-engraving are like everything else manufactured by this
+ factory, of the highest degree of perfection, and the utmost care
+ was given to the comparative distance of screws so as to produce an
+ even pressure. Many negatives have been either ruined or snapped by
+ the use of imperfect Printing Frames.
+
+ [Illustration]
+
+ The American Optical Co. Printing Frames for photo-engraving are the
+ only safe ones on the market.
+
+ PRICES.
+
+ 8 × 10, including one-inch glass $8.00
+ 10 × 12, " " " 11.02
+ 9 × 11, " " " 9.50
+ 11 × 14, " " " 13.00
+ 14 × 17, " " " 19.00
+
+ Larger and special sizes made to order.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ To Photo Engravers:
+
+ Having systematically undertaken the improvement of photo engravers'
+ appliances, we follow the S. & A. Photo Engravers' Adjustable Screen
+ Plate Holder, and the S. & A. accurately adjusted Photo-Engraving
+ Printing Frames, with the
+
+ S. & A.
+ Photo-Engraving Etching Tub,
+
+ to which we call the attention of those interested in this business.
+ We extend to them a cordial invitation to examine the same at our
+ salesrooms.
+
+ [Illustration]
+
+ These Photo-Engraving Etching Tubs will "fill a long felt want" with
+ the photo engravers, as they are constructed so as to resist the
+ strongest acids, and combine the features suggested by practical
+ experience.
+
+ The tub measures, inside, 48½ inches long, 20¼ inches wide,
+ and 7-5/8 inches deep, and the price of same is $10.00.
+
+ Very truly yours,
+
+ =The Scovill & Adams Co.=
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ [Illustration]
+
+ IN OLDEN TIMES
+
+ people were satisfied to worry along with whatever crude appliances
+ came easiest to hand....
+
+ =The material progress= of the nineteenth century, however, has
+ created a demand for a higher order of mechanical products than was
+ formerly deemed essential, and this is peculiarly the case with....
+
+ Process Engravers.
+
+ =To meet this demand=, the firm of JOHN ROYLE & SONS have devoted the
+ best part of their time, for the past 25 years, to the improvement of
+ the mechanical accessories to Process Engraving, and with what
+ success is best testified to by the fact that their machinery is
+ used exclusively by the _best_ Process Engravers, both in the United
+ States and abroad.
+
+ JOHN ROYLE & SONS,
+ Paterson, N. J., U. S. A.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ Chrome=Gelatine and
+ Photo=Gelatine.
+
+ Chrome-Gelatine is a perfected modification of the three-color
+ printing process. It is so named from the Gelatine process of
+ printing being used to produce the resulting pictures, which are
+ allowed to be really wonderful, and which may be reproductions from
+ original Oil Paintings, Water-colors, Views from Nature, Objects of
+ Still Life, Textile Fabrics--indeed, all classes of work copied from
+ originals in color. The results, in all cases, are produced from
+ three-color negatives. Artists, whose works have been reproduced by
+ this method, express their satisfaction of the results in the
+ highest terms, without qualification.
+
+ N. Y. Photogravure Co.
+ 137 West 23d Street,
+ New York.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ Photogravure and Aquarelle
+
+ (_Photogravure in Colors._)
+
+ Photogravures are of all classes of subjects.
+
+ An important modification of this process has recently been perfected
+ (patent applied for), by which the delicacy of the gelatine print is
+ maintained, at the same time that great strength and color is produced
+ in the shadows. The plates thus made are very durable, and show but
+ little wear after many thousands of impressions have been produced.
+ Moreover, they require no finishing or handling after having been
+ etched, and are quite easily printed.
+
+ Aquarelles are printed from photogravure plates, inked up locally in a
+ variety of colors. When the whole of the plate has been so inked, the
+ impression is pulled. The results are beautiful, but the process of
+ printing is exceedingly slow--three or four impressions a day, only,
+ being obtainable from a moderate sized plate.
+
+ N. Y. Photogravure Co.
+ 137 West 23d Street,
+ New York.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ Publications
+
+ THE N. Y. PHOTOGRAVURE CO. has on hand thousands of subjects of all
+ classes, available for the purposes of illustration, and at the
+ service of its customers. The newest and best subjects are being
+ continually added to this collection. Sets of illustrations selected
+ with the greatest care and skill, for any desired purpose.
+
+ The N. Y. Photogravure Co.
+ 137 West 23d Street,
+ New York.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ SUN AND SHADE.
+
+ An Artistic Periodical.
+ Published Monthly.
+
+ Forty cents a number. Four dollars a year. Each number contains eight
+ exquisite Photogravures, Photo-gelatines or Color Prints, by the
+ new Chrome-gelatine process, printed on paper 11 × 14 inches, with
+ descriptive letter-press. Six volumes are now complete, price $4.00
+ each. Each volume contains nearly one hundred plates. The whole six
+ volumes form a complete gallery of current art.
+
+ "SUN AND SHADE reproduces not only the most notable paintings
+ and portraits, but the best work of amateur and professional
+ photographers. If it gave nothing but the latter work it would be
+ deserving of the most liberal patronage that it receives; but it is
+ an admirable record of the greatest paintings at the Metropolitan
+ Museum of Art, of living American players, of portraits of celebrated
+ Americans, of great American painters, with reproductions of their
+ work, and it is a monument of the N. Y. Photogravure Co., which is a
+ monument of artistic New York."
+
+ The N. Y. Photogravure Co.
+ 137 West 23d Street,
+ New York.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ ALFRED SELLERS & CO.
+
+ MANUFACTURERS OF ZINC COPPER AND BRASS PLATES FOR Photo-Engravers.
+
+ Printing Frames, Etching Tubs, Etching Powders, Rollers, Etc.
+
+ SELLERS' SPECIAL TRANSFER.
+ ETCHING AND PROVING INKS.
+
+ Inking Slabs, Chemicals (Chas. Cooper & Co.'s), Formulas, and
+ all Supplies for Photo-Engravers.
+
+ Photo-Engraving Taught
+ IN ALBUMEN, BITUMEN, OR THE ENAMEL PROCESS.
+
+ TRY THE NEW RUSSELL ETCHING POWDER.
+
+ Supplies in General. Send for Price List.
+
+ 59 Beekman Street, New York, N. Y.
+ U. S. A.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ [Illustration: E. C. MEINECKE· ERNEST BURTT· H W ROWLAND·
+
+ PHOTO-GRAVURE.
+ PHOTO-GELATINE.
+ PHOTO-LITHOGRAPHY.
+ LITHOGRAPHY.
+ PHOTO-ENGRAVING.
+ TYPE-PRINTING.
+
+ WORKS. BROOKLYN. N.Y.
+
+ E. C. MEINECKE & CO.
+ ROOM 5. 63 WEST 22ND STREET.
+ NEW YORK.]
+
+ The favorable comments received from all sources testify to the
+ unrivaled results obtained by the PHOTOGRAVURE PROCESS, as worked
+ by our method.
+
+ In reviewing a set of photogravures of the Clifton Water Garden,
+ from negatives by the proprietor, Mr. S. C. Nash, the _Florists'
+ Exchange_, says:
+
+ "In his work he has been ably seconded by Messrs. E. C. Meinecke &
+ Co., of New York, the makers and printers of the plates. Without
+ fear of contradiction, we state there is no method of reproducing a
+ picture to compare with the photogravure process, except, possibly,
+ the expensive and tedious steel plate. For fidelity to detail,
+ sharpness of outline, contrast of light and shadow, breadth and
+ depth, and absolute fidelity to life, we choose this.
+
+ The Photogravure Process _IS THE BEST FOR_
+
+ =Book Illustrations=
+ =Art and Trade Catalogues=
+ =Calendars, Menus, Etc.=
+
+ where the most artistic results are desired. Either
+
+ =PLATES SUPPLIED=
+
+ combining the BEST WEARING QUALITIES with the most Artistic
+ Finish, or editions ready for the binder.
+
+ Your correspondence is solicited, and a trial order requested, which
+ will be executed promptly and in the best manner.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ =AMATEURS!=
+
+ In order to get the =Best Results= You must use the
+
+ =CRAMER PLATE=
+
+ Manufactured by
+
+ =G. Cramer Dry Plate Works, St. Louis, Mo.=
+
+ =Your Dealer does not KEEP Cramer Plates, he SELLS them.=
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ =If you want to secure the best Photogravure results,=
+ =Then you must use the best plates, and these are=
+ =Wuestner's "White Label" 50 Sens. Plate.=
+
+ =WUESTNER'S=
+ =New Eagle Dry Plate Works.=
+
+ For Sale by all Dealers.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ [Illustration: OUR BUSINESS is to sell EVERYTHING USED IN PHOTOGRAPHY
+ DOUGLASS & SHUEY CO. III STATE ST. CHICAGO.]
+
+ =Photogravure Worker.=
+
+ =Have you tried=
+ =THE ORIGINAL=
+
+ ZEISS LENS?
+
+ =NO?=
+
+ _BETTER DO SO AT ONCE._
+
+ THE SCOVILL & ADAMS CO.
+ HAVE THEM!
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ =ZEISS-ANASTIGMAT LENSES=
+
+ =Manufactured by=
+ =BAUSCH & LOMB OPTICAL CO.=
+
+ =ARE UNAPPROACHED for all Process Work, and are rapidly
+ displacing other forms of Lenses.=
+
+ =515-543 N. St. Paul Street, Rochester, N. Y.,=
+ =New York City, Corner Fulton & Nassau Sts.=
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ [Illustration: THE PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES
+
+ AN ILLUSTRATED MONTHLY MAGAZINE
+ DEVOTED TO THE INTERESTS OF
+ ARTISTIC & SCIENTIFIC PHOTOGRAPHY
+
+ THE PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES PUBLISHING
+ ASSOCIATION 423 BROOME STREET NEW YORK
+
+ EDITED BY WALTER E. WOODBURY.]
+
+ Each number contains from 50 to 60 Illustrations!
+ besides a magnificent PHOTOGRAVURE FRONTISPIECE.
+
+ The Most "up to date" Photographic Magazine in the world.
+
+ ALL THE BEST AND LATEST IMPROVEMENTS CHRONICLED BY THE BEST WRITERS.
+
+ Reproductions of all the finest photographic work from all parts of
+ the world.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ A FEW UNSOLICITED OPINIONS OF
+ The Photographic Times.
+
+ "It is a daisy."--Hon. A. A. ADEE.
+
+ "It is a veritable triumph of photographic literature."--J. J.
+ CARTER.
+
+ "One of the finest illustrated magazines received by us is THE
+ PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES."--_Chenango Telegraph._
+
+ "If my opinion is of any value, I will tell you that it is far and
+ away ahead of anything that has ever been attempted."--H. J. AIKEN.
+
+ "You have certainly reached the very height of possibilities in a
+ photographic magazine."--ARTHUR J. BENTON.
+
+ "The photographic art has hitherto had no better exponent, and the
+ publishers of this magazine are determined to keep at the head of
+ the literature of their profession. The many original articles are
+ fully illustrated."--_The Portland Transcript._
+
+ "Be sure and continue sending it. Can't keep house without it."--J.
+ E. CRAIG.
+
+ "It is a beauty in every sense."--CHAS. WAGER HULL.
+
+ "The subject-matter, the number and quality of the illustrations,
+ the typographic work and the general appearance of THE PHOTOGRAPHIC
+ TIMES, monthly, are, separately and collectively, cause for hearty
+ congratulation. Permit me to hereby extend mine, together with
+ sincere wishes for your continued success."--C. D. CHENEY.
+
+ ________________ 189
+
+ The Photographic Times Publishing Association,
+ =423 Broome Street, New York, N. Y.=
+
+ _Please send me_ =The Photographic Times=, _commencing with_
+ _______________ 189 , _for_ _______________ _to my address_:
+
+ _Name_, ______________________________________
+ _P. O._, _____________________________________
+ _County_, ____________________________________
+ _State_, _____________________________________
+
+ Subscription rates, one year, $4.00; six months, $2.00; three months,
+ $1.00; single copies, 35 cents.
+
+ Remit by Express, Money Order, Draft, P. O. Order, or Registered
+ Letter.
+
+ Subscriptions to THE PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES received by all dealers
+ in photographic materials in this and foreign countries; also by
+ The American News Company and all its branches.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ =The Photographic Appetite=
+
+ increases by what it feeds on. The beginner is usually content to
+ start with a modest outfit, but as interest grows the hunger for more
+ artistic results calls for better facilities so that the apparatus
+ must constantly be of a more improved pattern and contain all the
+ latest fixings, till finally the question of improvement is entirely
+ one of the value of the lens.
+
+ 4 × 5 Size
+
+ The Empire, =$5.00=
+ The New Waterbury, =$15.00=
+ The Henry Clay 2d, =$15.00=
+ The Waterbury, =$25.00=
+ The Henry Clay, Jr. =$30.00=
+ The Henry Clay, =$50.00=
+
+ To suit this growing appetite we make a line of camera boxes unequaled
+ for workmanship and convenient appliances. We can supply any stage of
+ hunger, and make to order to suit any whim. Any photographic question
+ cheerfully answered. Send for our Catalogue.
+
+ The Scovill & Adams Co.
+ 423 Broome Street, New York.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ ANTHION-SCHERING
+ The Best Hypo Eliminator.
+
+
+ DIRECTIONS FOR USE.
+
+ THE SOLUTION.
+
+ Five grammes (75 grains) =Anthion= are dissolved in one litre (one
+ quart) of luke-warm distilled water. The solution keeps for at least
+ one month.
+
+
+ A. For Gelatine Plates.
+
+ _a._ The plate (13 × 18 centimetres--5 × 7 inches) or film, after
+ fixing, is allowed to drain and then washed for about five minutes
+ in a dish with about 600 cubic centimetres (20 fluid ounces) water;
+ it is then again allowed to drain.
+
+ _b._ Afterward it is laid in a second dish with 200 c.c. (7 fluid
+ ounces) =Anthion solution=, and again allowed to remain for five
+ minutes with occasional stirring.
+
+ _c._ The plate is then once more laid in 600 c.c. (20 fluid ounces)
+ fresh water, exactly according to direction _a_.
+
+ _d._ The operations _b_ and _c_ are repeated.
+
+ The plate is then =free from fixing soda=. (In order to determine
+ this, proceed as follows:)
+
+
+ Test.
+
+ To be certain that all the fixing soda is completely destroyed,
+ proceed as follows: Several c.c. (half to one teaspoonful) of the
+ last washing water are poured into a test-tube, and three or four
+ drops silver nitrate solution (1 to 20) added. A white precipitate
+ generally forms. If this gradually acquires a =yellow= tint, fixing
+ soda is still present.
+
+ In such a case operations _a_ and _b_ are to be repeated.
+
+
+ B. For Positive Paper Prints.
+
+ The operations are carried out as under A, but instead of one plate
+ five fixed copies (13 × 18 c.c.--5 × 7 inches) are taken, allowed to
+ drain one by one, then laid singly in water (vide _a_), afterward in
+ =Anthion solution= (vide _b_), then again in water (vide _c_), again
+ in =Anthion solution= (vide _d_), and finally in water.
+
+ =It is important that the paper prints are frequently separated in
+ the different baths.= If the prints stick together, the solution
+ does not penetrate and cannot act.
+
+
+ = IMPORTANT =
+
+ For large plates and prints it is not only necessary to use larger
+ dishes, but also more liquid, both =Anthion solution= and water. An
+ excess of =Anthion= or of water is decidedly useful, but less is
+ disadvantageous.
+
+ The above directions for washing relate to those who have no
+ continual flow of water at hand.
+
+ If a continual flow of water is obtainable, it is advisable to wash
+ the plates or prints in flowing water for a quarter of an hour, and
+ then dip in the =Anthion solution= and test the result as above.
+
+ Send orders to your Dealers, or to
+ The Scovill & Adams Co., New York.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ When purchasing a Developer please be particular to specify
+ Schering's the oldest and most favorably known brand.
+
+ _Put up with labels and seals as per fac-similes here given._
+
+ [Illustration: ONE OUNCE =PYROGALLIC ACID= RESUBLIMED
+ From E. SCHERING, MANUFACTURING CHEMIST, BERLIN, GERMANY.]
+
+ THE STANDARD OF THE LAST--THIRD--EDITION OF THE GERMAN PHARMACOPOEIA.
+
+ See that you get the Genuine "Schering's." Excelled by none.
+
+ Send Orders to your Dealers, or to
+ THE SCOVILL & ADAMS COMPANY, NEW YORK.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Photogravure, by Henry R. Blaney
+
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+
+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Photogravure, by Henry R. Blaney
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Photogravure
+
+Author: Henry R. Blaney
+
+Release Date: June 17, 2011 [EBook #36446]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PHOTOGRAVURE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1024px;">
+<img src="images/i_002x.jpg" width="1024" height="509" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>THE S. &amp; A.<br />
+<big><span class="smcap">Photographic</span></big><br />
+SERIES.</h2>
+
+<h4>Edited by<br />
+W. I. LINCOLN ADAMS.</h4>
+
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 1. THE PHOTOGRAPHIC AMATEUR.</b><br />
+By <span class="smcap">J. Traill Taylor</span>. A Guide to the Young Photographer, either Professional
+or Amateur. (Second Edition.) Paper covers. <span class='bprice'><b>$0 50</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 4. HOW TO MAKE PICTURES.</b><br />
+By <span class="smcap">Henry Clay Price</span>. (Fourth Edition.) The A B C of Dry-Plate Photography.
+Out of print. (See No. 26)</p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 5. PHOTOGRAPHY WITH EMULSIONS.</b><br />
+By Capt. <span class="smcap">W. de W. Abney</span>, R.E., F.R.S. A treatise on the theory and
+practical working of Gelatine and Collodion Emulsion Processes. (Second
+Edition.) Paper covers. <span class='bprice'><b>75</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 7. THE MODERN PRACTICE OF RETOUCHING.</b><br />
+As practiced by M. Piquep&eacute;, and other celebrated experts. (Eighth Edition.)
+Paper covers, <b>50</b> cents; Library Edition. <span class='bprice'><b>75</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 8. THE SPANISH EDITION OF HOW TO MAKE PICTURES.</b><br />
+Ligeras Lecciones sobre Fotografia Dedicados a los Aficionados, Cloth
+bound, <b>75</b> cents. Paper covers. <span class='bprice'><b>50</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 9.</b> Out of print.</p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 12. HARDWICH'S PHOTOGRAPHIC CHEMISTRY.</b><br />
+A manual of Photographic Chemistry, theoretical and practical. (Ninth
+Edition) Edited by <span class="smcap">J. Traill Taylor</span>. Leatherette binding. <span class='bprice'><b>2 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 13. TWELVE ELEMENTARY LESSONS ON SILVER PRINTING.</b><br />
+(Second Edition.) Paper covers. <span class='bprice'><b>50</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 14. ABOUT PHOTOGRAPHY AND PHOTOGRAPHERS.</b><br />
+A series of interesting essays for the studio and study, to which is added
+European Rambles with a Camera. By <span class="smcap">H. Baden Pritchard</span>, F.C.S.
+Paper covers, <b>50</b> cents. Cloth bound. <span class='bprice'><b>75</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 15. THE CHEMICAL EFFECT OF THE SPECTRUM.</b><br />
+By Dr. <span class="smcap">J. M. Eder</span>. Cloth bound, <b>50</b> cents. Paper covers. <span class='bprice'><b>25</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 16. PICTURE MAKING BY PHOTOGRAPHY.</b><br />
+By <span class="smcap">H. P. Robinson</span>, author of Pictorial Effect in Photography. Written
+in popular form and finely illustrated. Library Edition, <b>$1.00</b>. Paper
+covers. <span class='bprice'><b>75</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 17. FIRST LESSONS IN AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHY.</b><br />
+Out of print. (See Amateur Photography, by <span class="smcap">W. I. Lincoln Adams</span>.)</p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 20. DRY PLATE MAKING FOR AMATEURS.</b><br />
+By <span class="smcap">George L. Sinclair</span>, M.D. Pointed, practical and plain. Leatherette
+binding. <span class='bprice'><b>50</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 21. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND
+PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES ALMANAC FOR 1887.</b><br />
+(Second Edition.) Paper cover (postage, 12 cents additional). <span class='bprice'><b>50</b></span><br />
+Library Edition (postage, 12 cents additional). <span class='bprice'><b>1 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 22. PHOTOGRAPHIC PRINTING METHODS.</b><br />
+By the Rev. <span class="smcap">W. H. Burbank</span>. A Practical Guide to the Professional and
+Amateur Worker. Cloth bound. (Third Edition). <span class='bprice'><b>1 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 23. A HISTORY OF PHOTOGRAPHY.</b><br />
+Written as a practical guide and an introduction to its latest developments.
+By <span class="smcap">W. Jerome Harrison</span>, F.G.S., and containing a frontispiece of the
+author. Cloth bound. <span class='bprice'><b>1 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 24. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND
+PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES ALMANAC FOR 1888.</b><br />
+Illustrated. (Second Edition.) Paper (by mail, 12 cents additional). <span class='bprice'><b>50</b></span><br />
+Library Edition (by mail, 12 cents additional). <span class='bprice'><b>1 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 25. THE PHOTOGRAPHIC NEGATIVE.</b><br />
+A Practical Guide to the Preparation of Sensitive Surfaces by the Calotype,
+Albumen, Collodion, and Gelatine Processes, on Glass and Paper, with
+Supplementary Chapter on Development, etc., by the Rev. <span class="smcap">W. H. Burbank</span>.
+Cloth bound. Reduced from $1.50 to <span class='bprice'><b>1 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 26. THE PHOTOGRAPHIC INSTRUCTOR FOR THE
+PROFESSIONAL AND AMATEUR.</b><br />
+Being the comprehensive series of Practical Lessons issued to the Students
+of the Chautauqua School of Photography. Revised and enlarged. Edited
+by <span class="smcap">W. I. Lincoln Adams</span>, with an Appendix by Prof. <span class="smcap">Chas. Ehrmann</span>.
+(Fourth Edition, enlarged and revised.) Paper covers. <span class='bprice'><b>1 00</b></span><br />
+Library Edition. <span class='bprice'><b>1 50</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 27. LETTERS ON LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHY.</b><br />
+By <span class="smcap">H. P. Robinson</span>. Finely illustrated from the author's own photographs
+and containing a Photogravure frontispiece of the author. Cloth bound. <span class='bprice'><b>1 50</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 29. THE PROCESSES OF PURE PHOTOGRAPHY.</b><br />
+By <span class="smcap">W. K. Burton</span> and <span class="smcap">Andrew Pringle</span>. A standard work, very complete
+and freely illustrated. Price, in paper covers, <b>$2 00</b>. Library Ed. <span class='bprice'><b>2 50</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 30. PICTORIAL EFFECT IN PHOTOGRAPHY.</b><br />
+By <span class="smcap">H. P. Robinson</span>. A new edition. Illustrated. Mr. Robinson's first
+and best work. Cloth bound. <span class='bprice'><b>1 50</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 32. PRACTICAL PHOTO-MICROGRAPHY.</b><br />
+By <span class="smcap">Andrew Pringle</span>. Fully illustrated. Cloth bound. <span class='bprice'><b>2 50</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 33. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND
+PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES ALMANAC FOR 1890.</b><br />
+Paper cover (by mail, 14 cents additional). <span class='bprice'><b>50</b></span><br />
+Library Edition (by mail, 14 cents additional). <span class='bprice'><b>1 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 34. THE OPTICAL LANTERN.</b><br />
+Illustrated. By <span class="smcap">Andrew Pringle</span>. Paper covers, <b>$1.00</b>.<br />
+Cloth bound. <span class='bprice'><b>1 50</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 35. LANTERN SLIDES BY PHOTOGRAPHIC METHODS.</b><br />
+By <span class="smcap">Andrew Pringle</span>. Paper covers <b>75</b> cents. Cloth bound. <span class='bprice'><b>1 25</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 36. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND
+PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES ALMANAC FOR 1891.</b><br />
+Paper covers (by mail, 15 cents additional). <span class='bprice'><b>50</b></span><br />
+Library Edition (by mail, 15 cents additional). <span class='bprice'><b>1 00</b></span><br />
+Cyclop&aelig;dic Index for 1891 Annual. <span class='bprice'><b>10</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 37. PHOTOGRAPHIC OPTICS.</b><br />
+A Text-Book for the Professional and Amateur. By <span class="smcap">W. K. Burton</span>.
+Paper covers, <b>$1.00</b>. Library Edition. <span class='bprice'><b>1 50</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 38. PHOTOGRAPHIC REPRODUCTION PROCESSES.</b><br />
+Illustrated. By <span class="smcap">P. C. Duchochois</span>. Paper covers, <b>$1.00</b>. Cloth. <span class='bprice'><b>1 50</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 39. EL INSTRUCTOR FOTOGRAFICO.</b><br />
+Paper covers, <b>$1.00</b>. Library Edition. <span class='bprice'><b>1 50</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 40. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND
+PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES ALMANAC FOR 1892.</b><br />
+Out of print.</p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 41. THE CHEMISTRY OF PHOTOGRAPHY.</b><br />
+By <span class="smcap">W. Jerome Harrison</span>. Cloth bound. <span class='bprice'><b>3 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 42. PICTURE MAKING IN THE STUDIO.</b><br />
+By <span class="smcap">H. P. Robinson</span>. Paper covers, <b>50</b> cents. Cloth bound (Library
+Edition). <span class='bprice'><b>1 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 43. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND
+PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES ALMANAC FOR 1893.</b><br />
+Edited by <span class="smcap">W. I. Lincoln Adams</span>.<br />
+Paper covers (postage extra, 15 cents). <span class='bprice'><b>50</b></span><br />
+Cloth bound (Library Edition) (postage extra, 15 cents). <span class='bprice'><b>1 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 44. THE LIGHTING IN THE PHOTOGRAPHIC STUDIO.</b><br />
+By <span class="smcap">P. C. Duchochois</span>. A new edition. Paper covers, <b>75</b> cents. Cloth
+bound (Library Edition). <span class='bprice'><b>1 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 45. THE GRAMMAR OF PHOTO-ENGRAVING.</b><br />
+By <span class="smcap">H. D. Farquhar</span>. Illustrated. The most complete text-book yet published
+on this subject. Price, in paper covers, <b>$2.00</b>. Cloth bound
+(Library Edition). <span class='bprice'><b>2 50</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 46. INDUSTRIAL PHOTOGRAPHY.</b><br />
+Illustrated. By <span class="smcap">P. C. Duchochois</span>. Being a description of the various
+processes of producing Indestructible Photographic Images on Glass, Porcelain,
+Metal, and many other substances. Paper covers, <b>50</b> cents. Cloth
+bound. <span class='bprice'><b>1 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 47. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND
+PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES ALMANAC FOR 1894.</b><br />
+Edited by <span class="smcap">W. I. Lincoln Adams</span>.<br />
+Paper covers (postage extra, 15 cents). <span class='bprice'><b>50</b></span><br />
+Cloth bound (Library Edition) (postage extra, 15 cents). <span class='bprice'><b>1 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 48. ARISTOTYPES AND HOW TO MAKE THEM.</b><br />
+Giving a complete description of the manufacture and treatment of Gelatino
+and Collodio-Chloride Papers. By <span class="smcap">Walter E. Woodbury</span>. Illustrated.
+Paper covers, <b>$1.50</b>. Library Edition. <span class='bprice'><b>2 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 49. THE ENCYCLOP&AElig;DIC DICTIONARY OF PHOTOGRAPHY.</b><br />
+Containing over 2,000 references and about 400 illustrations. By <span class="smcap">Walter
+E. Woodbury</span>. In press.</p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 50. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND
+PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES ALMANAC FOR 1895.</b><br />
+With over 200 illustrations In paper covers. Postage extra. <span class='bprice'><b>50</b></span><br />
+Cloth bound. (Library Edition.) Postage 15 cents extra. <span class='bprice'><b>1 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>No. 51. THE PHOTO-GRAVURE PROCESS.</b><br />
+By <span class="smcap">Henry R. Blaney</span>. A very complete and practical book, written by an
+Expert. In paper covers, <b>50</b> cents. Cloth bound (Library edition). <span class='bprice'><b>1 00</b></span></p>
+
+
+<p>For sale by all dealers in Photographic goods, booksellers, and sent, post-paid, on receipt of price, by the
+publishers,</p>
+
+<p class="center"><b>
+THE SCOVILL &amp; ADAMS COMPANY OF NEW YORK,<br />
+SEND FOR BOOK CATALOGUE. &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 423 BROOME STREET.
+</b></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<h2>A Selected List of Books</h2>
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">From the Scovill &amp; Adams Co.'s Book Catalogue.</span></h3>
+
+<p><span class='bprice'>Price per Copy.</span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>Amateur Photography.</b><br />
+A Practical Guide for the Beginner. By <span class="smcap">W. I. Lincoln Adams</span>. Illustrated. Paper covers, <b>50c.</b>;
+cloth bound. <span class='bprice'><b>$1 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>Lantern Slides and How to Make Them.</b><br />
+By <span class="smcap">A. R. Dresser</span>. A new book, very complete and practical. <span class='bprice'><b>25</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>Photography at Night.</b><br />
+By <span class="smcap">P. C. Duchochois</span>. Illustrated. 108 pp. Paper covers. <span class='bprice'><b>1 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>Bromide Paper and How to Use It.</b><br />
+Written by an Expert, with a specimen Bromide illustration. <span class='bprice'><b>25</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>The Knack.</b><br />
+Written expressly to help the beginner in perplexity, reduced to <span class='bprice'><b>25</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>Photographic Lenses; Their Choice and Use.</b><br />
+By <span class="smcap">J. H. Dallmeyer</span>. A special edition, edited for American photographers. In paper covers. <span class='bprice'><b>25</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>The Chemistry of Photography.</b><br />
+By Prof. <span class="smcap">Raphael Meldola</span>. <span class='bprice'><b>2 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>The Photographic Image.</b><br />
+By <span class="smcap">P. C. Duchochois</span>. A Theoretical and Practical Treatise on Development. Paper covers. <span class='bprice'><b>1 50</b></span><br />
+Cloth bound. <span class='bprice'><b>2 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>The Ferrotyper's Guide.</b><br />
+For the ferrotyper, this is the only standard work. Seventh thousand. <span class='bprice'><b>75</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>The Photographic Studios of Europe.</b><br />
+By <span class="smcap">H. Baden Pritchard</span>, F.C.S. Cloth bound, <b>$1.00</b>; paper covers. <span class='bprice'><b>50</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>Art of Making Portraits in Crayon on Solar Enlargements.</b><br />
+(Third edition.) By <span class="smcap">E. Long</span>. <span class='bprice'><b>1 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>History and Hand-Book of Photography.</b><br />
+With seventy illustrations. Cloth bound, reduced to <span class='bprice'><b>50</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>Crayon Portraiture.</b><br />
+Complete instructions for making Crayon Portraits on Crayon Paper and on Platinum, Silver and
+Bromide Enlargements; also directions for the use of Transparent Liquid Water Colors, and for
+making French Crystals. By <span class="smcap">J. A. Barhydt</span>. A new edition. Paper covers, <b>50c.</b>; cloth bound. <span class='bprice'><b>1 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>Art Recreations.</b><br />
+Ladies' popular guide in home decorative work, with a chapter on photography. Edited by <span class="smcap">Marion
+Kemble</span>. <span class='bprice'><b>1 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>American Carbon Manual.</b><br />
+For those who want to try the carbon printing process, this work gives the most detailed information.
+Cloth bound. Reduced to <span class='bprice'><b>50</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>Manual de Fotografia.</b><br />
+By <span class="smcap">Augustus Le Plongeon</span>. (Hand-book for Spanish Photographers.) <span class='bprice'><b>1 00</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>Secrets of the Dark Chamber.</b><br />
+By <span class="smcap">D. D. T. Davie</span>. <span class='bprice'><b>50</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>The Photographer's Book of Practical Formulas.</b><br />
+Compiled by Dr. <span class="smcap">W. D. Holmes</span>. Ph.D., and <span class="smcap">E. P. Griswold</span>. Paper covers, reduced from <b>75c.</b> to
+<b>30c.</b>; cloth bound, reduced from <b>$1.50</b> to <span class='bprice'><b>60</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="pblockquot"><b>American Hand-Book of the Daguerrotype.</b><br />
+By <span class="smcap">S. D. Humphrey</span>. (Fifth edition.) This book contains the various processes employed in taking
+heliographic impressions. <span class='bprice'><b>25</b></span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<h2>AN ANNOUNCEMENT!</h2>
+
+
+<p>We have made arrangements with the <span class="smcap">New York Photogravure
+Company</span> by which we are enabled to offer a series of magnificent
+Photogravures at a very low price.</p>
+
+<p>The first is that which has been already published and described by
+us, being the "COURT OF HONOR," at the World's Fair. The companion
+to this is in preparation, and will shortly be ready. It represents
+a view of the "ADMINISTRATION BUILDING AND COURT OF
+HONOR," looking up from the Peristyle. These two pictures form a
+magnificent souvenir of the World's Fair, and imperishable ones, which
+have not been approached in artistic or technical excellence. Each
+measures about 18 x 22 inches, and they are printed in the best style, on
+paper 24 x 32 inches.</p>
+
+<p>The next two pictures are photogravures from negatives made by
+Mr. <span class="smcap">John E. Dumont</span>, of Rochester, and form admirable companion
+pictures. Their titles are, "NO DOUBT," and "IN DOUBT," and
+represent, in one case, a monk with a winning hand of cards, and having
+no doubt what his play is to be. In the other, a monk holding a
+hand of cards which evidently is a losing one, and, as evidently, he is
+in doubt as to what to play.</p>
+
+<p>The story of these pictures is admirably told, and with all the well
+known skill of Mr. <span class="smcap">Dumont</span>.</p>
+
+<p>The next in the series is a "LANDSCAPE WITH SHEEP," by
+Mr. <span class="smcap">Robert S. Redfield</span>, of Philadelphia, and can well pass for a reproduction
+of a painting by <span class="smcap">Verbeck Hoven</span>, not that it is in any sense a
+copy of any picture, being entirely original, but in sentiment and feeling
+equaling the best and most artistic work of the painter. As a companion
+to this, "A STORM AT BRIGHTON" is published. This
+was one of the prize pictures at the recent exhibition of the joint Societies
+of Amateur Photographers of Boston, Philadelphia and New York.
+It is exceedingly effective as a study of cloud and motion of water, and
+forms an admirably suggestive study for artists. It is from a negative
+by Mr. <span class="smcap">Ernest Edwards</span>, President of the New York Photogravure
+Company.</p>
+
+<p>The well-known picture of "Flirtation" has also been engraved for
+this series, and will be very popular. This picture (it will be remembered)
+appeared in the American "Annual of Photography" for 1892.</p>
+
+<p>With the exception of the two first, all these pictures measure about
+16 x 12 inches for size of work, and are printed on etching paper, 22 x 28
+inches.</p>
+
+<p>The uniform price of all is $2.00 each. For sale by all dealers.</p>
+
+<p>Other subjects will follow, from time to time.</p>
+
+
+<p class="center"><b>These Photogravures will be sent, post-paid, by mail, carefully<br />
+packed, on receipt of price.</b></p>
+
+<h4>THE SCOVILL &amp; ADAMS COMPANY.</h4>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<h2>Twelve : Photographic : Studies.</h2>
+
+<h4><i>THE THIRD EDITION.</i></h4>
+
+<p class="center"><b>A Collection of Photogravures from the Best Representative Photographic<br />
+Negatives by Leading Photographic Artists.</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><b>COMPILED BY W. I. LINCOLN ADAMS.</b></p>
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'> &nbsp; &nbsp; <b>THE COLLECTION INCLUDES</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>"Dawn and Sunset,"</td><td align='right'>H. P. Robinson.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>"Childhood,"</td><td align='right'>H. McMichael.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>"As Age Steals On,"</td><td align='right'>J. F. Ryder.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>"A Portrait Study,"</td><td align='right'>B. J. Falk.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>"Solid Comfort,"</td><td align='right'>John E. Dumont.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>"Ophelia,"</td><td align='right'>H. P. Robinson.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>"No Barrier,"</td><td align='right'>F. A. Jackson.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>"El Capitan,"</td><td align='right'>W. H. Jackson.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>"Still Waters,"</td><td align='right'>J. J. Montgomery.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>"Surf,"</td><td align='right'>James F. Cowee</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>"A Horse Race,"</td><td align='right'>George Barker.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>"Hi, Mister, may we have some Apples?"</td><td align='right'>Geo. B. Wood.</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+<p class="center">Printed on Japan Paper, Mounted on Boards. Size, 11 &times; 14, in ornamental<br />
+Portfolio and a Box. Price, $3.00.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><b>Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price, by</b></p>
+
+<h4><span class='bprice'>The Scovill &amp; Adams Company.</span><br /></h4>
+
+<hr style='width: 100%;' />
+
+<h2>Artistic Landscapes</h2>
+
+<h4>FROM NATURE.<span class='bprice'>
+Representing<br />
+The Four Seasons.</span><br /><br /></h4>
+
+
+<p>These plates were made from photographs taken direct from
+nature. They have been most beautifully reproduced by the
+highest grade (copper-plate) process of the New York Photogravure
+Company. The plates measure 6 x 8 inches, but are printed on
+extra heavy plate paper 11 x 14 inches in size. Each picture is printed
+in a tint especially appropriate for the season which it represents, and
+the entire set of photogravures are in every way <b>worthy of framing</b>.</p>
+
+<p>The negatives were photographed from nature by Mr. <span class="smcap">W. I. Lincoln
+Adams</span>, and they have been <i>enthusiastically praised wherever shown</i>.</p>
+
+<p>What <span class="smcap">George Inness</span>, America's greatest landscape painter, says of
+these photogravures:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p><b>"They are very charming, and should prove extremely useful
+in the development of the landscape art of our country."</b></p>
+
+<p class="center">They are sold singly or in sets.</p>
+
+<p class="noidt"><b>
+Price, per copy <span class='bprice'>$0 50</span><br />
+The Set of Four <span class='bprice'>1 50</span>
+</b></p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">Sent, post-paid, to any address, on receipt of price, by</p>
+
+<h3>The Montclair Photogravure Publishing Company,<br />
+
+<small>MONTCLAIR, N. J.</small></h3>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<h4>THEODORE METCALF CO.</h4>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;">
+<img src="images/i_008.png" width="800" height="269" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+<h2>Chemicals</h2>
+
+<p class="center"><b>Fine, Rare and Crude, of every description.</b></p>
+
+
+<p>From the many years we have dealt in this class of supplies,
+we claim to be leaders in this branch of the drug
+trade, and by constantly replenishing and increasing our
+stock, and at once procuring or manufacturing all new
+chemical products, we are able to do full justice to all
+orders.</p>
+
+<h4><big>: Pure Chemicals :</big><br />
+FOR PHOTOGRAPHIC AND PROCESS WORK.</h4>
+
+<p class="center">Bromide of Potassium.<br />
+Bichromates.<br />
+Ammonium, Potassium and Sodium.<br />
+Powdered Dragon Blood, Light Colored and Dark.<br />
+Metcalf Powdered Bitumen of Judea.<br />
+
+<small>:: ALSO ::</small>
+<br />
+Syrian Asphaltum.<br />
+Benzole, Chemically Pure,<br />
+
+<small>By Can or Barrel.</small><br />
+Etc., Etc., Etc.<br />
+</p>
+
+<h3>
+Boston, &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; U. S. A.
+</h3>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<h2><span class="smcap">The Grammar of Photo-Engraving.</span></h2>
+
+<h4>B<small>Y</small> H. D. FARQUHAR.</h4>
+
+<hr style="width: 5%;" />
+<h4>(Number Forty-five of the Scovill Photographic Series.)<br />
+<br />
+<small>CONTAINING INSTRUCTION IN</small><br />
+<br />
+<big>Drawing, Chemistry and Optics, as applied to Photo-Engraving.</big><br />
+<br />
+<small>AND A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE ART OF</small><br />
+<br />
+<big><span class="smcap">Half-Tone, Zinc Etching, Swelled Gelatine, Lithotype and<br />
+Chalk Plate Engraving, as Practiced in the<br />
+United States.</span></big></h4>
+
+<hr style="width: 5%;" />
+<h4>ILLUSTRATED.</h4>
+<hr style="width: 5%;" />
+
+<p>The object of this book is to present to the constantly increasing
+number of persons seeking after practical knowledge in the art of
+process engraving, a comprehensive and totally reliable text-book. The
+book has been written with a view to instruct the amateur as well as the
+professional, and the writer has always had in mind the beginner,
+counting no detail too trivial to be fully described.</p>
+
+<p>It has been written for the most part in the leisure hours, after practical
+service during the day in a photo-engraving establishment, so that
+the instruction goes directly from the shop to the pupil. It has been
+the author's hope, in writing this book, to so carefully describe every
+branch of work connected with the subject, that the beginner, who knows
+absolutely nothing about it, may become a practical photo-engraver
+from a careful reading of the work.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 5%;" />
+<h4>CONTENTS:</h4>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Chapter I.&mdash;Drawings for Photographic
+Reproduction. The Materials Required.</p>
+
+<p>Chapter II.&mdash;Chemicals used in Photo-Engraving.</p>
+
+<p>Chapter III.&mdash;Apparatus and the Workshop.</p>
+
+<p>Chapter IV.&mdash;Photographic Processes as
+Employed in Photo-Engravings. Preparation
+of the Chemicals.</p>
+
+<p>Chapter V.&mdash;Causes of Failure. Remedies.</p>
+
+<p>Chapter VI.&mdash;The Half-Tone Process.
+Screen Plates.</p>
+
+<p>Chapter VII.&mdash;Zinc Etching. Preparation
+of Chemicals Used in Zinc Etching.</p>
+
+<p>Chapter VIII.&mdash;Etching in Half-Tone.</p>
+
+<p>Chapter IX.&mdash;Blocking and Finishing.
+Tools and Materials.</p>
+
+<p>Chapter X.&mdash;Swelled Gelatine Process of
+Photo-Engraving.</p>
+
+<p>Chapter XI.&mdash;Lithotype Engraving for
+Color Work.</p>
+
+<p>Chapter XII.&mdash;Photographing on Wood
+and Other Processes.</p>
+
+<p class="noidt"><b>
+Price, in paper covers <span class='bprice'>$2 00</span><br />
+&nbsp; &nbsp;"&nbsp; &nbsp; cloth bound (Library Edition) <span class='bprice'>2 50</span>
+</b></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>For sale by all dealers in Photographic Materials, and sent, post-paid,
+on receipt of price, by the publishers,</p>
+
+
+<h4><span class='bprice'>THE SCOVILL &amp; ADAMS COMPANY, &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; <br />
+423 Broome Street, New York City.</span><br /></h4>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 896px;">
+<p>E. EDWARDS PHOTO. <span class='bprice'>N.Y PHOTOGRAVURE CO.</span></p>
+<img src="images/i_011.jpg" width="896" height="768" alt="A ROADSIDE COTTAGE IN THE CATSKILLS." title="" />
+<p class="center ft15"><span class="smcap">A Roadside Cottage in the Catskills</span></p>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p>
+<h1>PHOTOGRAVURE.</h1>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h3><small>BY</small><br />
+<big>HENRY R. BLANEY.</big></h3>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h4><i>With Introduction and Additions by the Editor.</i></h4>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h5>NEW YORK:<br />
+<big>THE SCOVILL &amp; ADAMS COMPANY.</big><br />
+1895.</h5>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 336px;">
+<img src="images/i_013.png" width="336" height="350" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h4>Copyright, 1895,<br />
+<span class="smcap">The Scovill &amp; Adams Company.</span></h4>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="8" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>&nbsp;</td><td align='right'><small>PAGE</small></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Introduction by the Editor.</span>&mdash;Early History of Photogravure&mdash;Woodbury's
+Process&mdash;Other Methods,</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_5">5</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Chapter I.</span>&mdash;The Negative.&mdash;Quality best Suitable.&mdash;Necessity
+for Reversing.&mdash;Methods of Obtaining Reversals.&mdash;The Powder
+Process,</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Chapter II.</span>&mdash;The Transparency.&mdash;The Carbon Process.&mdash;Cutting
+up the Tissue.&mdash;Sensitizing.&mdash;Drying.&mdash;Exposing.&mdash;Continuing
+Action of Light.&mdash;Development.&mdash;Carbutt's Transparency
+Plates,</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Chapter III.</span>&mdash;The Carbon Tissue.&mdash;Sensitizing and Exposing.&mdash;The
+Actinometer,</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_22">22</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Chapter IV.</span>&mdash;Cleaning and Graining of the Copper Plate Plate&mdash;Grade
+of Copper Necessary.&mdash;Where and How to Buy it,</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_25">25</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Chapter V.</span>&mdash;Development of Negative Resist on the Copper
+Plate.&mdash;Preparation for Biting with Acid through the Gelatine,</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Chapter VI.</span>&mdash;The Acid Baths.&mdash;How to Make Them and Method
+of Biting through the Gelatine,</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_32">32</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Chapter VII.</span>&mdash;Cleaning and Polishing the Plate, with Tools
+Necessary for Retouching,</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Chapter VIII.</span>&mdash;Printing from the Plate.&mdash;Steel Facing,</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_39">39</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Chapter IX.</span>&mdash;Materials Necessary for Photogravure&mdash;List of
+Firms Supplying Them,</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_41">41</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="smcap">Chapter X.</span>&mdash;Books and Articles on Photogravure, 1888-1893,</td><td align='right'><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span></p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;">
+<img src="images/i_016.png" width="800" height="196" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>INTRODUCTION.</h2>
+
+
+<p>About the year 1820 Nic&eacute;phore Niepce made the discovery
+that bitumen, under certain conditions, was sensitive to light.
+He dissolved it in oil of lavender, and spread a thin layer of
+the solution thus obtained upon stone. This he exposed under
+a drawing (making the paper transparent by waxing), and
+after sufficient exposure, oil of lavender was poured on.
+Those portions of the bitumen which had been exposed to
+the action of the light had become insoluble, and so remained
+while the lines which had been protected by the drawing
+were dissolved away. By treating the stone with an acid
+these lines were bitten or eroded, and could be printed from.
+Niepce afterward employed metal plates instead of the stone.</p>
+
+<p>Here we have the foundation for a number of printing
+processes of the present day, including photogravure.</p>
+
+<p>For many years, however, progress in processes for intaglio
+printing was very slow. In 1852 Talbot introduced a process
+termed photoglyphy, and in 1854 Paul Pretsch, of Vienna,
+patented a process which he termed photogalvanography.
+In 1870 the late Walter B. Woodbury, inventor of the Woodburytype
+process, suggested to M. Rousselon, of M. M. Goupil
+&amp; Co.,<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> a process which he had discovered, and which he
+describes<a name="FNanchor_B_2" id="FNanchor_B_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_B_2" class="fnanchor">[B]</a> as follows:</p>
+
+<p>"The method, as perhaps many of your readers know,
+is based on the fact that some pigments used in carbon
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span>printing have an unpleasant habit of granulating when
+mixed with gelatine and bichromate, destructive to their
+use in carbon printing and Woodburytype, but bearing
+the essence of success in an engraving process where
+grain is necessary. The origin of this method was simply
+owing to my getting some bad reliefs, in which this effect
+was first noticed. Out of this arose the photo-engraving
+process which, as I said before, is now claimed as the invention
+of a Frenchman. But I am digressing.</p>
+
+<p>"This relief, possessing a suitable grain, could, by hydraulic
+pressure, be made to transfer its minutest details to metal
+without any loss to fineness, so giving a plate possessing all
+the properties of a mezzotint. The methods hitherto
+used of electrotyping would have proved useless, as all
+detail would have been lost. The same thing applies to
+the new method I am now about to bring before your
+readers. The latter process of getting the grain transferred
+to a hard metal remains the same; but the novelty is in the
+method of producing the grained plate. To those who have
+practiced the process of enameling, as used by Geymet and
+Alker, and others, my description will be better understood.</p>
+
+<p>"I first coat a thin, polished steel plate (zinc will answer)
+with a very thin coating of gum, glucose, and bichromate as
+used for enameling. This I dry rapidly, and, while still
+warm and desiccated, expose under a glass positive. On removal
+from the frame after exposure the plate is made to
+take up a slight amount of moisture by breathing on it.</p>
+
+<p>"During this stage I brush or dust over it any hard powder,
+such as emery, powdered glass, etc, but these I keep of
+different degrees of fineness or coarseness. No. 1, is of a
+coarse quality, and is used first; No. 2 is finer; and No. 3 is
+of the finest grain obtainable. These are obtained by passing
+through muslin of different degrees of fineness. Having
+in the first stage of moisture used the No. 1, or coarsest,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span>
+powder, after a time No. 2 is dusted over and adheres to the
+middle tints, while the very finest tones, which have almost
+lost their sticky qualities by the exposure to light, are
+treated to No. 3.</p>
+
+<p>"Now we possess a granular picture having all the true
+qualities required in a photo-engraved plate, or, rather,
+such as will give a reverse in metal having these qualities.
+The steel or zinc plate is then to be exposed to light to
+completely harden the mixture all over, and is then treated
+exactly as in my other engraving process; that is, pressed
+into soft metal by hydraulic pressure, electrotyped, and then
+the surface is aciercised or coated with steel. The dark
+parts are thus represented by a coarse grain, the middle tints
+by a medium grain, and the finest shades by the most infinitesimal
+particles, thus meeting all requirements necessary to
+a successful photo engraving process."</p>
+
+<p>This process was taken up by a Frenchman and claimed by
+him as his own invention. The chief difficulty with it was
+that the plates before being perfect require the work of a
+skillful engraver, sometimes for weeks. They were therefore
+very costly, six dollars per square inch being charged
+for the making of the plate alone.</p>
+
+<p>Klic's process, 1886, was the next important improvement
+in photogravure or intaglio printing, and since then many
+other processes and improvements have been introduced by
+Obernetter, Waterhouse, Colls, Zuccato, Sawyer and others.</p>
+
+<p>In the following chapters Mr. H. R. Blaney gives a working
+description of the process as practiced to-day by many
+of the leading firms in this and other countries. This originally
+appeared in the columns of <span class="smcap">The Photographic Times</span>,
+but I have made many additions that I have imagined may
+be of value to the student. A dividing line will be found
+between Mr. Blaney's writings and my own additions.</p>
+
+<p class="ralign">THE EDITOR.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER I.</h2>
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">The Negative.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>Any negative may be used for photogravure, that is, taken
+from nature, or from a painting or engraving, provided it is
+reversed, and, in the case of paintings, should, in addition,
+be on an orthochromatic plate. The negative should be soft
+and brilliant, well exposed, and not hard or under-exposed.
+A reversed negative is always necessary if the print from
+the copper plate is required to be similar in regard to right
+and left, or if no other means are to be taken, to reverse the
+image upon the copper plate. Professionals use stripping
+plates especially made for this purpose for small work, or the
+reversed negative may be made in the copying camera. A
+fairly good reversed negative can be made by contact in
+the printing frame from an albumen print from the original
+negative, the print made transparent with white wax by
+being placed on a piece of warm, clean metal and the wax
+rubbed over the face. To have the negative reversed, the
+print should first be placed, face out, against the glass of the
+printing frame, with its back against the sensitive surface of
+the transparency plate, the back closed in and exposed to a
+large lamp for about five seconds. Every care must be
+taken that you use the best of negatives, carefully retouched
+if necessary, as the professional photographic etchers have
+informed me that (from their standpoint) the success of the
+whole process depends on the quality of the original negative
+and the care taken in artistic retouching.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 15%;' />
+
+<p>It will often happen in commercial photogravure work
+that plates have to be made from all kinds of original nega<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span>tives.
+In cases where these are flat from over-exposure it is
+well to make a carbon transparency; intensifying the image
+with a strong solution of permanganate of potash, and from
+this make a fresh negative upon a slow or Carbutt transparency
+plate.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Horace Wilmer says: "The class of negative most
+suitable is such as gives a good result by any of the printing
+processes. A bright sparkling negative will always give a
+good plate, but I do not find that any satisfactory results
+can be got from a soft flat negative. The negative should
+be as perfect as possible. It is absolutely useless to work
+from a faulty negative. Contrasts on it may be increased
+by retouching. Such contrasts are desirable because the
+tendency of the etching is to reduce them somewhat."</p>
+
+<p>Perhaps the simplest way of obtaining a reversed negative
+is by placing the dry plate in the slide film inside and exposing
+through the glass, of course after allowing in focusing
+for the thickness of the glass plate. With the wet-collodion
+process, usually the method employed by large photomechanical
+printers, this method can be used because it is a
+simple matter to carefully examine the glass plate to be
+employed, but it will be obvious that with the ordinary dry
+plate all the imperfections of the glass, such as dirt, scratches,
+air-bubbles, etc., will be clearly reproduced in the image.</p>
+
+<p>Another method largely employed to produce reversed
+negatives direct, is by means of a mirror or prism placed
+either before or behind the lens. The prism is the more
+convenient, but if large sizes are used it becomes a costly
+piece of apparatus. The mirror, which should be a plane of
+glass silvered on its surface, is a less expensive affair. By
+either of these means the reversed negatives can be made
+direct without suffering the least in quality.</p>
+
+<p>With celluloid or other flexible films, printing can, of
+course, be done from either side. Practical men, however,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span>
+say that, except with the very thinnest films, there is an
+undoubted loss of sharpness in the grain when these films
+are reversed and with some mechanical processes.</p>
+
+<p>Against this, however, it may be said that better contact
+can be obtained in printing than if the film were upon a
+piece of uneven glass, as is often the case, for by backing it
+with a piece of plate-glass perfect contact is ensured everywhere.</p>
+
+<p>We come now to the method of stripping the film from the
+glass. If the negative is made by the collodion process the
+matter is a simple one. The glass is treated with French
+chalk previous to collodionizing. After the negative is
+made and dried it is laid on a leveling stand and a solution
+of gelatine poured on it. When dry, it is readily stripped
+by running a knife all round. With ordinary dry-plates the
+method usually recommended is to immerse them in dilute
+hydrofluoric acid. The difficulty often experienced here is
+in the lateral expansion of the film. This will largely
+depend upon the plate, or rather the quality of the gelatine
+used. There are, however, two methods of securing the
+films to some medium unaffected by moisture, and so prevent
+expansion or distortion. The first is that recommended
+by Mr. A. Pumphrey and the second by Mr. H. J. Burton,
+modified descriptions of which are given in a recent number
+of <i>The British Journal of Photography</i>. If the negative is
+varnished this is removed. A thin film of gelatine is moistened
+in a dilute solution of hydrofluoric acid, one part of
+acid to sixty of water. This gelatine film is secured on
+paper by a coating of india-rubber.</p>
+
+<p>The action of the dilute acid is to soften the gelatine,
+making it very adhesive. It can, in this state, be readily
+attached to the negative by squeegeeing. The acid in the
+film passes through the negative, and releases it from the
+glass. It can then be lifted off and pinned to a flat surface<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span>
+to dry. The paper can afterward be stripped off, when dry,
+by moistening the back with a little benzole to dissolve the
+india-rubber. In this manner we get the stripped negative
+in exactly the same size as when on the glass, to which it
+can be restored at any time desired.</p>
+
+<p>Burton, in his method, employs collodion in place of paper
+as the support. The negative is first coated with a thick
+collodion, and this is allowed ten minutes or so to set. It is
+then immersed in plain water until the film loses all appearance
+of greasiness. A few drops of hydrofluoric acid are
+added to the water, and the dish gently rocked. The film
+will soon detach itself, when the plate should be at once
+rinsed. Another plate previously coated with gelatine, and
+dried, is placed in the dish, and the released film, after
+reversing, is floated upon it, the two removed together, and
+allowed to dry.</p>
+
+<p>So far we have only treated upon reverse negatives, either
+obtained at once or reversed afterward. It often happens,
+however, that we have an ordinary negative, which is
+required to be reversed. This negative may be a valuable
+one, and the risk involved in stripping it be too great.</p>
+
+<p>Another simple method of obtaining a reversed negative
+is by means of the powder process. Although this process
+is an old one, it appears to be but little known, for what
+reason we have never been able to define. It is by no means
+difficult, and by its means a negative can be obtained direct
+from a negative without the intermediate positive transparency.</p>
+
+<p>The principle of the process is this: An organic tacky substance
+is sensitized with potassium dichromate, and exposed
+under a reversed positive to the action of light. All those
+parts acted upon become hard, the stickiness disappearing
+according to the strength of the light action, while those
+parts protected by the darker parts of the positive retain<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span>
+their adhesiveness. If a colored powder be dusted over, it
+will be understood that it will adhere to the sticky parts only,
+forming a visible image, the same being a reproduction of
+the positive printed from. The process is very useful for
+the production of lantern slides and transparencies, or for
+the reproduction of negatives. Any of the following formul&aelig;
+may be employed for the manufacture of the organic substance:&mdash;</p>
+
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Solution A.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="4" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Gum arabic</td><td align='left'>25 grammes</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Grape sugar</td><td align='left'>60 grammes</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Purified honey</td><td align='left'>15 grammes</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Alcohol, 40 deg</td><td align='left'>15 c.c.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Water</td><td align='left'>60 c.c.</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Solution B.</span></h3>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Saturated solution of ammonium dichromate.</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>Two solutions to be mixed together before using in proportions
+15 A, 25 B, 50 water.</p>
+
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Woodbury's Formula.</span></h3>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="4" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Gum arabic</td><td align='left'>60 grains</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Glucose</td><td align='left'>45 grains</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Glycerine</td><td align='left'>10 minims</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Potassium dichromate</td><td align='left'>30 grains</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Distilled water</td><td align='left'>2 ounces</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Obernetter Process.</span></h3>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="4" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Dextrine</td><td align='left'>60 grains</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>White sugar</td><td align='left'>75 grains</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ammonium dichromate</td><td align='left'>30 grains</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Glycerine</td><td align='left'>2 to 8 minims</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Distilled water</td><td align='left'>3 ounces</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>The gum is first dissolved and the remainder of the ingredients
+added. It may be necessary to warm the solution in
+a hot water bath to dissolve it. It is then filtered through
+flannel or clean muslin, and preserved for use in well-stoppered
+bottles. With this solution clear glass plates are coated
+and dried by a gentle heat over a small spirit lamp. The
+plate while still warm is exposed under a reversed positive<a name="FNanchor_C_3" id="FNanchor_C_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_C_3" class="fnanchor">[C]</a>
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span>
+for from two to five minutes in sunlight, and from 10 to 20
+minutes in diffused light. The image is then but slightly
+visible. On removing from the printing frame the plate is
+laid in the air (protected from light) for a few minutes to
+absorb a little moisture from it. The next process is the
+"dusting on." If the image is required to be black, fine
+Siberian graphite is spread over it with a soft flat brush.
+This will adhere to the parts unaffected by light, giving an
+image of the positive. Any colored fine powder maybe used,
+giving images in various colors. When fully developed the
+excess of powder is dusted off and the film coated with collodion.
+After this it is well washed to remove the unaltered
+gum and dichromate salt. The film may, if desired, be
+detached from the plate and used for enamels, ivory, wood,
+textile fabrics, opals, etc.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 448px;">
+<img src="images/i_025.png" width="448" height="300" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER II.</h2>
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">The Transparency.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>Regular transparency gelatine dry plates are the handiest
+for making positives, especially for amateurs, if one does not
+care if the subject is in reverse, or if one has a reversed
+negative to work from. There is a "special" carbon tissue,
+price $4.00 per roll of 2 &times; 12 feet, made by the Autotype
+Company, of London, England, with full instructions appended;
+by a system of double transfer, reversed negatives
+may be obtained with this tissue. The "special" tissue is
+only to be used for the transparency. A safe edge of black
+paper is required on the transparency, pasted up exactly to
+the edge of the picture, on the glass side; it comes, sold in
+strips, gummed, ready for use, about &frac14; inch wide; this is
+required, as the tissue used for the negative resist on the
+copper plate, which is printed from the transparency, must
+have a safe edge, shielded from the light, or it will not attach
+itself to the copper plate, the tissue coming inside half way.
+The screw pressure printing frame should have a piece of
+heavy felt for backing the transparency.</p>
+
+<p>The following instructions for making carbon transparencies
+will no doubt be found useful:</p>
+
+<p>The carbon tissue prepared for this process consists of
+paper coated with gelatine containing carbon, lamp-black, or
+other pigments.</p>
+
+<p>The Autotype Company, of London, manufacture a special
+"transparency" tissue.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Cutting up the Tissue</span> is performed by unrolling it gently
+upon a zinc cutting plate, cut square and true, with the inches
+marked at the bottom and right-hand side. By using a T<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span>
+square and observing the numbered inches marked on the
+plate, it will not be difficult to cut the tissue to any dimension.
+If the tissue is very curly and unmanageable it should
+be kept down with convenient weights. After cutting it up
+to the required sizes, which should be conveniently smaller
+than the dish to be used for sensitizing, it should be kept
+flat under a metal plate.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Sensitizing the Tissue</span> is the next operation. This is
+performed in a solution of potassium dichromate rendered
+alkaline with ammonia. Tie over the mouth of a two-gallon
+jug a piece of muslin, to form a kind of bag, into which place
+fifteen ounces of potassium dichromate, then fill up the jug
+with water and allow it to stand until the dichromate is dissolved
+and the solution becomes cold. It is sometimes advisable
+to regulate the quantity of dichromate. In hot weather,
+or for very thin negatives, the proportion of water should be
+doubled, while for very hard negatives only half the quantity
+should be used. In very hot weather it is often advantageous
+to replace about 30 per cent. of the water with the
+same quantity of alcohol.</p>
+
+<p>The operation of sensitizing the tissue must be carried on
+in a room lighted by a window covered with a yellow blind.
+A flat dish of porcelain, glass, or <i>papier mach&eacute;</i>, a squeegee,
+and a sheet of glass or zinc larger than the tissue, will be
+required.</p>
+
+<p>The solution is poured into the dish, and should be at least
+two inches deep. The tissue is then immersed in it, and the
+air-bells that form immediately brush away from both sides
+with a broad camel's-hair brush. The temperature of the bath
+should not be higher than 60 deg. Fahr.; and the time of
+immersion should be from three to five minutes. After the
+tissue has remained in the solution for the allotted time it is
+gently removed and laid face downward upon the glass or
+zinc plate, and the back squeegeed, removing all superfluous<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span>
+solution. The tissue is removed from the glass and laid over
+a sheet of cardboard, bent into the form of an arch, to dry.</p>
+
+<p>Another method (H. J. Burton's) of sensitizing carbon
+tissue is to lay it flat on a sheet of clean blotting paper, and
+sponge on the back a very strong sensitizing solution composed
+as follows:</p>
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="4" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Potassium dichromate</td><td align='left'>4 ounces</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Liquid ammonia fort</td><td align='left'>1 ounce</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Water</td><td align='left'>20 ounces</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>First mix the ammonia with the water, then grind up and
+add the dichromate.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Drying the Tissue</span> should be accomplished in a room perfectly
+free from the noxious fumes of other chemicals, and
+lighted only by non-actinic light. Tissues sensitized during
+the evening should be dry on the following morning. It
+should then be cut to the sizes required and kept flat in a
+pressure frame, or other similar contrivance.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Exposing the Tissue.</span>&mdash;The tissue can be exposed behind
+the negative in an ordinary printing frame, or in special
+frames having no joint in the back, as no image is visible.
+The negative must be furnished with a safe edge, made by
+painting an edge about one-eighth of an inch round the
+negative with black varnish, or by pasting on strips of red or
+black paper. Exposure must be judged by an actinometer.
+A very suitable instrument for timing the exposure of carbon
+tissue is Sawyer's actinometer. It consists of a rectangular
+tin box with a glass lid, bearing twelve tints graduated from
+slight discoloration to a degree of opacity, representing the
+extreme amount of deposit upon the lights of the densest
+negatives, each division of this screen of tints bearing a number
+in opaque pigments; and a roll of sensitive paper is placed
+in the box, and the end pulled forward so as to pass under
+the tints. When this arrangement is placed in the light, the
+silver paper commences to discolor underneath the graduated<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span>
+screen, beginning of course at the lightest, but the number
+on the tint being in an opaque pigment is preserved white,
+and serves to register the progress of printing; for if, when
+the lid is opened, the number one, for instance, shows clearly
+on a tinted ground, the instrument is said to have registered
+one tint; by that time the number two will have begun to
+make its appearance, and, if sufficient exposure be given, the
+light will print through the whole scale by successive steps,
+and show up the numbers, one to twelve. With an instrument
+of this kind it is evident that, by exposing alongside
+the carbon tissue and determining the number of
+tints required for the proper exposure of that negative, the
+same number of tints with the same negative will always
+prove right. A little practice will enable one to judge the
+number of tints required for every class of negative.</p>
+
+<p>It will be well to remark here that freshly sensitized tissue
+will produce inferior pictures to that used a day or two after;
+the pictures are not so hard, and there is less danger of the
+high-lights being washed away.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Continuing Action of Light.</span>&mdash;If the carbon tissue
+after exposure to the light, be kept in the dark for a little
+time the effect on the print will be precisely the same as if
+the exposure to light had been prolonged. This continuing
+action of light may often be utilized to advantage. Pictures
+known to be under-exposed will, if kept till morning, by that
+time have acquired the same force as if they had received
+the proper exposure.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Development</span> consists simply in dissolving the gelatine unaffected
+by light, with hot water as the solvent.</p>
+
+<p>Immerse the exposed tissue in a bath containing cold
+water. It will first of all curl up, but afterward lay flat
+and limp. It is then placed in another bath containing cold
+water together with a sheet of glass which has previously
+been coated with a 5 per cent. solution of gelatine. Bring<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span>
+them together face to face, draw them out, and force into
+close contact with a large squeegee; then place between
+blotting paper for five or ten minutes. In squeegeeing, the
+tissue should be uppermost, and a sheet of American cloth
+laid over it to prevent the squeegee from damaging it.</p>
+
+<p>Development should not be attempted for at least twenty
+minutes, during which time the glass, with the tissue on it,
+should be placed between sheets of blotting paper, and kept
+under pressure to insure its adherence to the glass support.
+After that time it is placed in a dish, and water heated to a
+temperature of 100 deg. F. added. The colored pigment
+will at once commence to ooze out of the edges, and after a
+little time the paper originally holding the carbon film may
+be removed with the hand. Then, by gently leveling the
+picture with the hand, the superfluous gelatine will be
+washed away, and if the exposure has been correct a perfect
+image should remain. A certain amount of control can be
+kept over an autotype picture. An over-exposed print will
+show itself by insolubility of the gelatine, and the high
+light refusing to be washed clear. The temperature should
+be raised considerably, and hot water poured over with a
+jug. If this fails to reduce the intensity, add a little
+ammonia to the water as a last resource, though the better
+plan is to make another print, giving less exposure. Under-exposure
+results in over-solubility of the gelatine. The
+half-tones will be washed clean away. It is rarely an under-exposed
+print can be saved. All that can be done is to
+reduce the temperature of the water. Development should
+never be hurried; the slower it is the better the gradation
+of tone in the results.</p>
+
+<p>After development is complete the bichromate salt is
+discharged, and the image rendered perfectly insoluble by
+well washing in cold water and placing in a dish containing
+a 5 per cent. solution of potash alum, after which it is again
+washed and dried.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Another method of making a transparency and one that
+involves less trouble is by means of the transparency plates
+which are now in the market. Of these we have tried Carbutt's
+with the greatest success. For these the following
+instructions are given:</p>
+
+<p>The requisites are, a deep printing-frame a size larger
+than the negative to be used, with a flat glass bottom clear
+and free from scratches (crystal plate is best), a dark-room
+Lantern, or other artificial light, and Keystone
+Gelatino-Albumen Plates. Transparencies can be made
+same size of negative by contact and exposure to artificial
+light, or enlarged or reduced in the camera by daylight,
+with equal perfection in result. To make transparencies by
+contact place one of the Keystone thin crystal glass transparency
+plates over the negative in printing-frame, lay piece
+of dark soft material over it, close down the back, and expose
+to the light of the lantern or to a gas flame or other
+artificial light, for 10 to 30 seconds, according to density of
+negative, at a distance of 20 inches from the flame. Use
+the following developer:</p>
+
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Eikonogen and Hydrochinon Developer.</span></h3>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="4" summary="">
+<tr><th colspan='3' align='center'>A.</th></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>Metric Weight.</th><th>&nbsp;</th><th align='right'>Avoirdupois Weight.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>600 c.c.m</td><td align='center'>Distilled Water</td><td align='right'>20 ounces</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>120 grammes</td><td align='center'>Sulphite of Soda Crystals</td><td align='right'>4 ounces</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>22 grammes</td><td align='center'>Eikonogen</td><td align='right'>330 grains</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>10&frac12; grammes</td><td align='center'>Hydrochinon</td><td align='right'>160 grains</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>960 c.c.m</td><td align='center'>Water to make up to</td><td align='right'>32 ounces</td></tr>
+<tr><th colspan='3' align='center'>&nbsp;</th></tr>
+<tr><th colspan='3' align='center'>B.</th></tr>
+<tr><th align='left'>Metric Weight.</th><th>&nbsp;</th><th align='right'>Avoirdupois Weight.</th></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>600 c.c.m</td><td align='center'>Distilled Water</td><td align='right'>20 ounces</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>60 grammes</td><td align='center'>Carbonate of Potash</td><td align='right'>2 ounces</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>60 grammes</td><td align='center'>Carbonate Soda Crystals</td><td align='right'>2 ounces</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>960 c.c.m</td><td align='center'>Water to make up to</td><td align='right'>32 ounces</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='center'></td><td align='right'></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='center'></td><td align='right'></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='center'></td><td align='right'></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='center'></td><td align='right'></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='center'></td><td align='right'></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='center'></td><td align='right'></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>For use take 1 ounce (30 c.c.) of A, &frac34; ounce (25 c.c.) of B,
+with 4 ounces (120 c.c.) of water.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>More of A will increase density, more of B will increase
+detail and softness. Temperature of developer should not
+vary much below 65 deg. nor above 75 deg. The after treatment
+is same as with any other developer.</p>
+
+<p>Let the development continue until the blacks look quite
+strong, and detail showing in the high-lights; wash off developer,
+then immerse in</p>
+
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Carbutt's New Acid Fixing and Clearing Bath.</span></h3>
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="4" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>4 c.c.m</td><td align='center'>Sulphuric Acid</td><td align='right'>1 drachm</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>480 grammes</td><td align='center'>Hyposulphite of Soda</td><td align='right'>16 ounces</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>60 grammes</td><td align='center'>Sulphite of Soda</td><td align='right'>2 ounces</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>30 grammes</td><td align='center'><a name="FNanchor_D_4" id="FNanchor_D_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_D_4" class="fnanchor">[D]</a>Chrome Alum</td><td align='right'>1 ounce</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1920 c.c.m</td><td align='center'>Warm Water</td><td align='right'>64 ounces</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>Dissolve the hyposulphite of soda in 48 ounces (1440 c.c.m.)
+of water, the sulphite of soda in 6 ounces (180 c.c.m.) of water;
+mix the sulphuric acid with two ounces (60 c.c.m.) of water,
+and pour slowly into the sulphite soda solution, and add to
+the hyposulphite; then dissolve the chrome alum in 8 ounces
+(240 c.c.m.) of water and add to the bulk of solution, and the
+bath is ready. This fixing bath will not discolor until after
+long usage, and both clears up the shadows of the negative
+and hardens the film at the same time.</p>
+
+<p>Let remain two or three minutes after transparency is
+cleared of all appearance of silver bromide. Then wash in
+running water for not less than half an hour to free from
+any trace of hypo solution. Swab the surface with wad of
+wet cotton, rinse, and place in rack to dry spontaneously.
+Then varnish with plain collodion.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER III.</h2>
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">The Carbon Tissue&mdash;(Sensitizing and Exposure).</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>The carbon tissue used as a resist, which is mounted on
+the copper plate, is made by the Autotype Company, London,
+England. No. 100 Standard Brown is the right grade to use,
+though I have reached good results with No. 103. The No. 100
+is a heavier grade than No. 103, and requires two or three
+minutes longer exposure than the latter. Use a deep printing
+frame with a screw pressure to secure absolute contact, which
+is known by iridescent markings appearing on the glass of
+the printing frame. A Johnson's actinometer is very useful
+to time the exposure. From 4 to 6 tints are necessary.
+Experience here is the only guide, as the light varies as well
+as the density of the negative and the sensitiveness of the
+tissue. If one does not have an actinometer, a slip of albumen
+paper may be used; as soon as the paper has reached the
+darkest point, which is then called one tint, extend it so that
+a fresh portion comes out to the light, and so on for the
+different tints. In September, for instance, the darkest tint
+is reached in about 3 to 4 minutes; two tints and a half or
+8 minutes in the shade at midday on a clear day in September
+is about right,&mdash;this is understood to be with medium negatives
+and No. 103 tissue sensitized within three days.</p>
+
+<p>You should over-expose rather than under-expose, allowance
+being made when the acid is used. Print deeply, so
+that, on development, the negative tissue on the copper plate
+shows all the detail clearly in the shadows. The tissue
+should not appear very dark on the plate. The copper
+should show up through the gelatine clearly and brightly.
+The thinner the negative tissue, the quicker the biting of the
+acid.</p>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Sensitizing the Tissue.</span></h3>
+
+<p>The carbon tissue comes only in rolls of 2&frac12; feet by 12 feet,
+price $3.00, not cut. It is not sold in a sensitive condition.
+Full instructions with each roll for sensitizing. Tap water
+will do, but I would suggest distilled water for making the
+sensitizing solution of bichromate of potassium.</p>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="4" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Bichromate of potassium</td><td align='left'>1 ounce</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Water</td><td align='left'>16 ounces</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Alcohol</td><td align='left'>&frac12; drachm</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ammonia</td><td align='left'>12 drops</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>The best way to sensitize the tissue, is to place the tissue
+face up, keeping it flat so that the solution reaches all parts at
+once, removing all air bubbles, and rubbing in the solution
+with the fingers until pliant; the time of immersion is three
+minutes in winter, two minutes in summer. The hands
+should be washed directly after handling the solution, and
+care must be taken that there are no cuts on the fingers, as
+the solution is very harmful, but if due care is exercised and
+the hands well washed immediately with soap, little, if any,
+trouble will be experienced; use rubber finger tips as much
+as possible. Keep the temperature of the solution at 70 deg.
+both in summer and winter. Take a piece of glass free from
+scratches (an inch larger all round than the tissue); have the
+glass ready cleaned with ammonia and talcum powder of fine
+whiting, squeegee the sensitized carbon tissue directly from
+the solution on to the glass and place to dry at night in a
+light-tight box; it will be dry in the morning.</p>
+
+<p>The tissue is in the best condition for three days after
+sensitizing; it can be used up to seven days; it gradually
+increases in sensitiveness from day to day. After a week or
+ten days has elapsed, it is hard to manage and becomes unreliable.
+When the tissue is dry take a sharp knife and cut
+inside the edge, and strip off one corner. Fairly good results
+can be reached by simply drying over a curved piece of pulp<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span>
+board, which is tied with string on each end, but squeegeeing
+on glass gives a sharper result. The addition of ammonia
+and alcohol to the sensitizing solution makes it easier to strip
+the paper from the copper plate, after the carbon tissue is
+mounted on the plate, and enables one to develop the resist
+in the water at a lower temperature than without it, thus
+avoiding pits in the darker portions and white specks or
+bubbles in the lights, should the water reach too high a
+temperature.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 448px;">
+<img src="images/i_035.png" width="448" height="329" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">The Cleaning and Graining of the Copper Plate, and
+Grade of Copper Necessary, and Where and How
+to Buy It at Reasonable Prices.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>The best copper is recognized by its rosy lustre. Pure
+copper only should be used. It can be purchased ready
+polished and beveled from several firms in New York. The
+best way, if large quantities of plates are required, is to buy
+the copper in the rough of one firm and have it polished by
+another, and bevel it yourself if necessary with a file and
+burnish it by hand, or the firm who polish it will do the
+beveling for you.</p>
+
+<p>The Scovill &amp; Adams Co. supply copper-plates of the
+finest quality, ready polished, for photogravure work.</p>
+
+<p>Total cost by this method about one-third less than by
+purchasing ready made. It makes a copper plate 1/16 grade,
+9 &times; 11, cost about $1.10. Order your copper 1/16 in. grade up
+to 10 &times; 12; larger sizes 1/8 in. grade. If you use 1/16 in. grade
+above this size, the plate is liable to buckle. Be sure the
+plate is free from pits and scratches and with a high polish.
+Have what the polishers and engravers call a rouge polish.
+If they do not supply it, rouge it yourself with powdered
+rouge and turpentine, using a ball of absorbent cotton over
+a large piece of smooth cork. A good way to buy rouge is
+in the stick; it is more economical. Rub the wet cotton on
+it and the right quantity is assured. Pits in the copper may
+be taken out by tapping upon the back with a nail set, using
+a small piece of polished steel to lay the face of the plate on,
+and localizing the spot with a pair of calipers. The part
+raised by the tapping, cut away with the scraper, then rub<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>
+the spot with Scotch stone and water, then a piece of
+engraver's charcoal (cut to a pencil point), with machine oil;
+then burnish with the regular engraver's burnisher and
+sperm oil, finishing with rouge and refined turpentine.</p>
+
+<p>When the plate is well polished, make a strong solution of
+caustic potash (C.P.), which comes in sticks, as strong as
+possible, as long as it does not stain the copper. It should
+register about 40 deg. with an actinometer used to test silver
+solutions.</p>
+
+<p>Take a piece of absorbent cotton and clean the copper
+with potash (by the way, use finger tips); rinse under tap
+for five minutes, then a fresh piece of cotton with alcohol at
+95 per cent., rinse again with water, and place in warm water
+for final rinsing; stand up on corner, or place in drying
+frame usually used for negatives; allow to drain. Should
+any stains appear, it must be recleaned and all the operations
+repeated until it drains off without streaks, for these
+streaks and spots of stain are caused by the caustic potassa,
+which is difficult to remove. It is as hard to get rid of from
+the copper as hyposulphite is from a negative. These streaks
+retard the acid on the copper wherever they appear, and
+cause defects in the recording of the original tones of the
+negative.</p>
+
+<p>The plate is then ready for graining.</p>
+
+
+<h3>II.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Graining the Copper Plate.</span></h3>
+
+<p>A grain is required on the copper plate so that the tones
+will be reproduced, as copper has not a sufficient grain of its
+own. The grain is given to the copper plate by dusting it
+with powdered Syrian asphaltum or resin. Have a paste-board
+box made 18 inches high, 12 inches wide and 8 inches
+deep, perfectly air-tight, with a small door running the whole
+length on the widest side, an inch or two from the bottom.
+Have the inside of the box perfectly smooth; place within<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span>
+the box 4 ounces finely powdered Syrian asphaltum (sold by
+Messrs. Theodore Metcalf &amp; Co., Tremont Street, Boston,
+Mass.); it is difficult to find in New York. Shake the box
+vigorously, place on table, insert a piece of wood an inch
+high made in shape of cross (or open square, or have netting
+of wire raised an inch from the bottom of the box); the
+copper plate, previously cleaned, is at once placed face up
+upon it. Instead of shaking the box it can be arranged upon
+supports (see fig. 1), and revolved.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 480px;">
+<span class="caption smcap">Fig. 1.</span>
+<img src="images/i_038.png" width="480" height="505" alt="Fig. 1." title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>Close the door instantly, and let the plate remain about
+two minutes; carefully remove the plate and place it on a
+Florence oil lamp, holding the plate with a hand vise, watch
+carefully until the powder disappears from the surface and
+the plate slightly smokes, then stand aside to cool. Do not
+keep the plate too long on the heater, or the particles of dust
+will run together, forming an impenetrable varnish over the
+plate. This part of the process is not difficult, but requires
+practice. Preserve each atom of dust as much as possible,
+examine with magnifying glass and, when cool, test with
+finger nail; if it rubs off easily, it has not been heated
+enough; then the plate must be re-cleaned and again pow<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span>dered.
+To get a good all-round working grain, suitable for
+medium subjects, the plate should be placed at once in the
+box after shaking; thus the coarser particles that fall first,
+and the finer, which gradually settle, will combine after two
+or three minutes.</p>
+
+<p>Many combinations will be suggested to the student by
+practice to suit the subject; for instance, waiting for two
+minutes and then inserting the plate, gives a fine grain for
+delicate subjects. Powdered dragon's blood (resin) in combination
+with asphaltum makes a beautiful grain; a separate
+box may be used for the dragon's blood; the asphaltum first
+dusted on the plate, then inserted in the dragon's blood box
+for twenty or thirty seconds, then melted together. The
+dragon's blood melts first, then the asphaltum.</p>
+
+<p>The air brush is also used by professionals; it throws a
+resinous spirit varnish, coarse or fine, as required.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 448px;">
+<img src="images/i_039.png" width="448" height="284" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER V.</h2>
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">Development of Negative Resist on the Copper Plate,
+and Preparation for Biting with Acid through
+the Gelatine.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>Have a wooden box made 24 inches long, by 12 inches high,
+12 inches wide, with door 6 inches high on side, fastened with
+hinges, top and bottom of box open; cover top with sheet
+zinc. Place inside Florence oil lamp; the door is valuable
+to regulate the heat. On top of box place deep porcelain
+tray, 11 &times; 14, fill with water half full; in the water place two
+pieces of plate glass &frac12; inch high and 4 inches long, on which
+to place copper to keep it from the bottom of the tray. Slide
+the copper plate into the water, removing all air bubbles,
+keeping the fingers off the surface of the plate. Take the
+sensitized and exposed tissue and place face down in the cold
+water (65 deg.) sliding it gradually in at further end of the
+paper so as to avoid air bubbles; the instant the paper curls
+backward, place it over the copper plate and remove it
+quickly from the water. This has to be done with celerity
+or it will be found difficult to mount the tissue with the
+squeegee on the copper, and also it should be exactly placed
+with reference to the top and sides of the copper; all this,
+of course, to be done under water, never allow it to slip up
+out of it. Place plate on table and squeegee into place,
+stroking firmly from the centre, each way. Place face down
+on clean blotting paper, under heavy weight for fifteen
+minutes. While plate is under pressure (which is necessary
+to enable the gelatine to expand and attach itself to the
+plate), start the lamp gradually, and by the time the paper
+is ready the water should register on the thermometer 75 deg.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>
+Slide the plate under water removing air bubbles as they
+appear, with a ball of absorbent cotton; when the heat of
+the water reaches 90 deg. Fahr., the gelatine commences to
+ooze from all around the edges of the paper, and after the
+plate has remained in the water about ten minutes after the
+showing up of the gelatine (at the temperature from 90 to 95
+deg.), take a pin and carefully raise the paper at the corner,
+gradually pulling away the paper toward the opposite corner,
+keeping the hand close to the water; should the gelatine
+which adheres to the plate appear to lift, wait a few minutes
+longer and start another corner. After the paper is stripped
+from the plate, gently develop the negative resist with a
+piece of fresh absorbent cotton, delicately rubbing the surface,
+edges first, and lave the plate up and down in the
+water, keeping the temperature steadily at 90 to 95 deg., by
+raising or lowering the lamp. (Should the paper be under-exposed
+and appear very black on the copper, develop at
+100 to 110 deg., not over. If over-exposed it will appear
+very thin, and the heat of the water must not go over 90 deg.;
+it will strip at 88 to 90 deg.) Then the negative image
+gradually appears, the darks first, which are of course the
+brightest portions; when all detail appears in the shadows
+and the negative stands out clear and bright, take it out of
+the dark-room (which is lighted with an ordinary lamp), and
+gently wash under the tap with clean and cold water at 65 to
+70 deg.</p>
+
+<p>Dry the resist with alcohol, pouring it over the plate from
+one end, starting with half alcohol and half water, gradually
+adding more alcohol and eliminating the water, until a final
+flooding with absolute alcohol is reached; use fresh solutions
+of alcohol and water for each copper; don't use old alcohol
+for anything except cleaning the copper at the end, and for
+removing the spirit varnish. Stand up to dry against the
+wall, face out, and standing square on the bottom of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span>
+plate, in the same position as you flooded it with alcohol; it
+will be dry in twenty minutes if rightly flooded. The bare
+copper should now be protected by a strong varnish in
+alcohol (it must flow freely off the brush); a good varnish
+for this purpose, and the best I know of, is an etcher's
+asphaltum stopping-out varnish, sold by Messrs. Devoe &amp; Co.,
+New York; price 50 cents per bottle. Should it get thick as
+you come to the bottom of the bottle, add a little spirits of
+lavender until it flows again freely. Take an architect's
+ruling pen and carefully rule a line with the varnish up to
+the edge of the picture, making it exactly true with the sides
+of the plate and the space on each side of the work the same
+with the top, the bottom space slightly larger; make sure
+that it slightly comes inside the picture. Keep the rule away
+from the surface of the gelatine, as it is very delicate. Then
+cover all the rest of the copper, protecting the bare parts
+and bevel, and bringing the varnish up to the line. Allow to
+dry hard; about twenty minutes will do. Form a wall about
+the resist, with walling wax, about an inch high; make a lip
+at one corner, the further left hand one, for instance; see
+that there are no leaks. There are several grades of wax, but
+Liedel &amp; Co.'s is the best; when ordering you should give
+the name as modeling wax; gray is a good color. Pans can
+be used made of tin and varnished, or porcelain trays, protecting
+the back and edges of the plate with varnish, but
+I find the wax very helpful, especially on large plates.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">The Acid Baths.&mdash;How to Make Them and Method of
+Biting through the Gelatine.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>Perchloride of iron C.P. is the acid generally used for
+this purpose; it is a still acid, and if the room is well ventilated
+no harm to health results, but care must be taken to
+air the baths after making to get rid of the surplus chlorine.</p>
+
+<p>Four baths are used, each of different strengths, the
+strongest is used first, the weakest last. I quote from the
+catalogue of the Boston Art Museum, of the exhibition illustrating
+the technical methods of the Reproductive Arts and
+Photo-Mechanical Processes, held January 8, 1892: "Photo-aquatint
+(photogravure) for the production of half-tone intaglio
+plates from photographs from nature, paintings, etc.
+A dry aquatint ground is laid on a metal plate, and over this
+is mounted a gelatine negative film, made by the pigment
+printing process. To obtain this negative film a <i>reversed</i>
+positive on glass has first to be made. The reason why this
+positive must be reversed will become clear when the nature
+of the manipulations in the pigment printing process, which
+involves the turning of the film, are considered. The film
+mounted on the plate is a washout relief, thickest in those
+parts which are to show white in the impressions from the
+plate, and gradually growing thinner toward the darkest
+parts, where it is thinnest. The film acts as a 'resist' to the
+mordant, allowing it to pass freely in the thinnest parts, and
+less freely as it increases in thickness. If, however, the film
+were mounted on the bare plate, and the biting then proceeded
+with, the result would be of no practical use, as the
+plate would present merely shallow hollows, incapable of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>
+holding the ink, and which would therefore be wiped out in
+the attempt to clean the surface of the plate. This is, however,
+prevented by the aquatint ground, which allows the
+mordant to circulate only in the channels around the resinous
+particles of which it consists, and thus produces a grain
+precisely as in ordinary aquatinting. The mordant used in
+perchloride of iron, which is a 'still mordant,' <i>i.e.</i>, one which
+does not evolve bubbles of gas. An effervescent mordant
+cannot be used as the bubbles rising under the film would
+tear it up. In biting, successive baths of varying strength
+are made.</p>
+
+<p>"A strong solution of perchloride of iron penetrates only
+the thinner parts of the film, whereas a weaker acts also
+through the thicker parts. The biting, therefore, begins
+with a strong solution, which acts only in the darkest parts,
+and followed up with weaker and weaker solutions, which
+continue the biting in the darks and at the same time carry
+it on gradually toward the lights. If necessary, the plate is
+worked over with the burnisher to brighten the lights, and
+with roulettes, etc., to strengthen the darks."</p>
+
+<p>Purchase nine (9) pounds of perchloride of iron in crystals
+(45 cents per pound), take a wide-mouthed gallon jar, place
+within half a gallon of distilled water, add the iron until it
+tests 30 deg. by a Beaum&eacute; hydrometer, pour off enough to
+fill a one-litre glass stoppered bottle, after filtering through
+absorbent cotton. Keep adding the iron to the jar until the
+strength of each bath is reached. To the strongest solution
+add half a drachm of C. P. muriatic acid, and to the weakest
+half a drachm C. P. nitric acid; the nitric acid is added so
+that in the last biting a good final nip is given to the copper.</p>
+
+<p>I here give my own formula, with those recommended by
+others.</p>
+
+<p>The four (4) baths should be well aired for a day (in broad
+pans) in the open air before filtering.</p>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Formula for Acid Baths.</span></h3>
+
+<p class="center">(<span class="smcap">H. R. Blaney.</span>)</p>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>No. 1</td><td align='center'>should</td><td align='center'>register</td><td align='center'>to</td><td align='center'>Beaum&eacute;'s</td><td align='left'>scale &nbsp; &nbsp; </td><td align='left'>42 deg.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>No. 2</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>37 deg.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>No. 3</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>33 deg.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>No. 4</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>30 deg.</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>The temperature of the bath to be at 63 deg. Fahr. when tested.</p>
+
+<p class="center">(<span class="smcap">Denison's.</span>)</p>
+
+<p>No. 1 should be made to register Beaum&eacute;'s scale, 45 deg., the percentage
+of perchloride in this solution is 47, and the specific gravity 1.444.</p>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>No. 2, 40</td><td align='center'>deg.;</td><td align='center'>percentage,</td><td align='center'>41;</td><td align='center'>spec. grav. &nbsp; &nbsp; </td><td align='left'>1.375</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>No. 3, 38</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>38;</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>1.339</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>No. 4, 35</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>35;</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>1.313</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>No. 5, 27</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>27;</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>1.225</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>From an article in the <i>Photographic News</i> (English), Nov. 1, 1889, as
+practiced in India.</p>
+
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Biting Bath.</span></h3>
+
+<p class="center">(<span class="smcap">Waterhouse.</span>)</p>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>No. 1,</td><td align='center'>sp. grav.,</td><td align='center'>1.444;</td><td align='center'>ap. per ct. of</td><td align='left'>Fe<sub>2</sub>, Cl<sub>6</sub> = &nbsp; &nbsp; </td><td align='left'>47</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>No. 2,</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>1.375;</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>41</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>No. 3,</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>1.339;</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>38</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>No. 4,</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>1.313;</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>35</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>No. 5,</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>1.225;</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>27</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>A stronger solution of 48 deg. has been tried (by the above) but has
+no penetrating power through even the thinnest film.</p>
+
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Another Formula.</span></h3>
+
+<p>For large plates, 20 lbs. perchloride of iron and distilled water, until
+weight amounts to 1.500 grammes per 1000 c.c. From this four (4)
+solutions are made, at</p>
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>No. 1, 42</td><td align='center'>deg.</td><td align='center'>Beaum&eacute;;</td><td align='center'>spec. grav. &nbsp; &nbsp; </td><td align='left'>1.420</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>No. 2, 38</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>1.375</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>No. 3, 35</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>1.330</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>No. 4, 31</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='left'>1.285</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>The plate is now ready for biting. Keep a record of the
+bitings, and length of time for each one, for after-study; also
+note the time of exposure of the tissue, age of same, etc., etc.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Pour the acid from a glass graduate with one sweep over
+the plate, removing all bubbles with a feather, noting the
+time of immersion so as to guide you. Start with 42 deg.,
+having ready the 37 deg. in another graduate, watch carefully
+the action of the acid, and if the resist has been properly
+printed, the action of the acid will show after a minute; if
+longer it means a generally longer biting for each bath.</p>
+
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Average Bitings.</span></h3>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>42 deg., No. 1</td><td align='left'>5 minutes</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>37 deg., No. 2</td><td align='left'>5 minutes</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>33 deg., No. 3</td><td align='left'>2 minutes</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>30 deg., No. 4</td><td align='left'>2 minutes</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>Temperature of bath at 70 deg. Fahr., with No. 103 tissue.</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>Total of different bitings, from 10 to 25 minutes, according
+to depth of printing. It always varies. There is no hard
+and fast rule; you must in time learn to judge by your eye
+alone. The acid will first attack the thinnest part of the
+film, wherever that may be, and when the darkening of the
+copper ceases to spread to the next thickest parts, instantly
+pour off the acid, and pour on the 37 deg. Do not allow the
+atmosphere to act on the gelatine while biting any longer
+than is necessary to pour off one bath and quickly pour on a
+new one. The 37 and 33 deg. baths are for the middle tones,
+the 30 deg. for the most delicate ones. The action of each
+bath is cumulative, the 37 deg. biting a little where the
+42 deg. had bitten, the 33 deg. doing the same for those
+before it, besides taking care of itself, and the 30 deg. attacking
+all more or less. During the biting with the 30 deg. solution,
+it should be continued until the whites just turn color, and a
+minute beyond; that is, the copper should begin to show a
+very little under the thickest and darkest film.</p>
+
+<p>(Note that in the carbon resist the shadows are transparent
+and the high lights are opaque.)<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The length of the last biting very seldom is over two
+minutes. It is better to overbite your darks, and underbite
+your lights, if you vary any.</p>
+
+<p>The amount of moisture in the air and the heat of the day
+influences the length of biting. In hot weather in summer
+it is very difficult to work the process, the walling wax being
+discarded and the copper (back and edges protected by
+varnish) placed in a porcelain tray, surrounded by ice-water
+and kept at 65 to 70 deg., and the acid pured over the plate
+to the depth of one inch.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 358px;">
+<img src="images/i_047.png" width="358" height="336" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER VII.</h2>
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">Cleaning and Polishing the Plate, with Tools Necessary
+for Retouching.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>When the biting is finished rapidly place the plate under
+the tap and rinse thoroughly, breaking away the film with
+your fingers; it seems to have rotted under the action of the
+acid and is easily removed.</p>
+
+<p>Remove the walling wax, clean off the varnish with chloroform
+or turpentine, or alcohol first, and chloroform last. This
+leaves a dim picture on the plate, with a kind of scum over
+it; wet the plate with turpentine and start heavily with rouge,
+rubbing to and fro equally all over the plate with a ball of
+absorbent cotton; continue this treatment, using less and
+less rouge and more turpentine until you give the final polish
+to the high lights with a clean dry piece of cotton. Be very
+careful not to overdo in rouging; the scum (if the biting of
+the plate is of medium strength) should clear from the plate
+with hardly a touch, and with very little rouging. Some
+plates require a great deal of rouging; it then generally
+means that you must look to your sensitizer. I again draw
+your attention to the rouging; here is where any artistic
+feeling you may possess will come into play with taste and
+patience.</p>
+
+<p>After the plate is rouged sufficiently, an engraver's burnisher
+is used to clean up the highest lights and to modify
+others. Two or three roulettes of different fineness are
+valuable to touch up any darks that need deepening; it
+matches very well with the grain, but I am always trying to
+dispense with the use of the roulettes; one ought to get it
+with the acid alone. A No. 6 sewing needle in a holder<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>
+(dentist's pin-holder, screw end) is necessary to touch out
+occasional white specks. You will have plenty of them at
+first unless you look out carefully for dust on the film; keep
+all your solutions constantly attended to by occasional filtering,
+and don't use your sensitizing solution more than half a
+dozen times; keep it well corked; if it gets old it scums the
+plate too much.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 448px;">
+<img src="images/i_049.png" width="448" height="305" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">Printing the Plate and Steel Facing.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>Before final finishing by hand a working proof should be
+printed from the plate by an expert plate printer, by which,
+what the plate needs can be determined before final proving.</p>
+
+<p>Have the plate proved on different papers, and with different
+colored inks, so as to judge the effect. Imperial Japan
+is the best paper, besides etching paper, India, thin Chinese
+and Japanese papers. The cost of proving per single proof
+is 25 cents for a 4 &times; 6 plate on Imp. Japan, about $2.00 per
+doz. same paper; etching paper, about $5.00 per 100&mdash;less
+for large quantities.</p>
+
+<p>A second-hand D press, suitable for printing large or small
+editions or for proving, can be bought in Boston or New
+York for from $75 to $100. For instructions in printing see
+Hamerton's "Etchers and Etching."</p>
+
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">Steel Facing.</span></h3>
+
+<p>The life of a photogravure plate without steel facing does
+not last much beyond 75 impressions, so that if an edition
+is needed, send the plate to any good printer who will have it
+steel-faced for you; their charges are very moderate, about 50
+cents for a 4 &times; 6 plate. The steel-facing is accomplished by
+first making the plate chemically clean, as before preparation
+for graining, only be very thorough in using an old tooth-brush
+to get out the dirt and in addition use chloroform before using
+potash. Then solder a copper wire on to the back. The negative
+wire is attached to the copper plate. To the positive pole of the
+quart Smee battery is fastened a bright steel plate same size
+of copper, in a gallon jar. The plates are hung from glass<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>
+rods &frac12; inch apart, a sufficient quantity of the following
+solution to be poured into the jar:</p>
+
+
+<p class="center">(<span class="smcap">Denison's.</span>)</p>
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="4" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Warm water</td><td align='left'>20 ounces</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Ammonium chloride</td><td align='left'>3 ounces</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Sulphate of iron and ammonia</td><td align='left'>4 ounces</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p class="noidt">Filter, and let stand for 24 hours. Five (5) minutes will
+cover the plate with a thin film of steel.</p>
+
+
+
+<h3>(<span class="smcap">Obernetter's.</span>)</h3>
+
+<p>"Place the copper plate in a porcelain tray on the bottom
+of which rests a brightly burnished copper wire, the negative
+pole.</p>
+
+<p>"The anode on the positive pole, a bright steel plate, is suspended
+over the copper plate, and kept in motion while the
+circuit is closed. A precipitate of steel, resembling silver in
+appearance, must instantly occur upon the copper plate, any
+air-bells to be removed. Five minutes is sufficient to deposit
+a perfect steel coating." Grease the plate after steel facing,
+to keep off the rust. Formula:</p>
+
+<p class="center">(<span class="smcap">Obernetter's.</span>)</p>
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="4" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Distilled water</td><td align='left'>1 litre</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Chloride of ammonium</td><td align='left'>60 grammes</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Proto sulphate of iron</td><td align='left'>30 grammes</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Iron alum</td><td align='left'>30 grammes</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 448px;">
+<img src="images/i_051.png" width="448" height="197" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">Materials Necessary for Photogravure, and List of
+Firms Supplying them.</span></h2>
+
+
+<h3><i>Materials.</i></h3>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p class="noidt">
+Printing Frame (deep), 8 &times; 10, screw pressure, $8.<br />
+Roll Carbon Tissue, No. 100; Standard Brown, $3.<br />
+Johnson Actinometer, $1.25.<br />
+Beaum&eacute; Hydrometer, $1.25 (with glass).<br />
+Silver &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; " &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; (argentometer) 75c.<br />
+Engravers' Scraper, $1.75, best grade.<br />
+&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;"&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Burnisher, $1.75,&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; "<br />
+Powder Box for graining (paste-board), $1.<br />
+Powdered Syrian Asphaltum, $1 per pound.<br />
+Nine (9) pounds Perchloride of Iron (C. P. crystals), 45c. per pound.<br />
+Stick Rouge, 20c.<br />
+Turpentine, 20c. (refined).<br />
+Alcohol (95 per cent.).<br />
+Modeling Wax, $1.25.<br />
+One Ps. Scotch Stone, 25c.<br />
+One dozen Glass Blowers' Charcoal, $2.0c per dozen sticks (for polishing copper).<br />
+One pound Absorbent Cotton, 50c.<br />
+One pound Caustic Potash C. P. (sticks).<br />
+One Porcelain Tray, deep, 11 &times; 14, $3.50.<br />
+One Florence Hand Lamp, 75c.<br />
+One Squeegee.<br />
+Three Roulettes, $1.50 each.<br />
+Hand Vise, 75c.<br />
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>Calipers, 50c.<br />
+Dairy Thermometer, 25 c.<br />
+One bottle Etchers' Varnish, 50c.<br />
+One ounce Chloroform, 20c.<br />
+Six ounces Bichromate Potassium.<br />
+One pound Concentrated Ammonia.<br />
+</p></div>
+
+<h3><span class="smcap">List of Firms Supplying Materials for Photogravure.</span></h3>
+
+<p>The Scovill &amp; Adams Co., 423 Broome Street. Photographic
+Materials and Photo-Engravers' Supplies.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Bestgen &amp; Co., 1001 Washington Street, Boston,
+Mass. Polishers of Copper Plates.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. George Schard, 116 Wooster Street, New York. Polisher
+Copper Plates.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Jos. Wheeler, 299 Washington Street, Boston, Mass.
+Printer of Photogravures.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. J. H. Daniels &amp; Co., Oliver Street, Boston, Mass.
+Printers of Photogravures.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Frost &amp; Adams, Cornhill, Boston, Mass. Engravers'
+and Etchers' Supplies.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. F. W. Devoe &amp; Co., Fulton Street, New York.
+Engravers' and Etchers' Supplies.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Fusch &amp; Lang, 29 Warren Street, New York.
+Engravers' Supplies.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Alfred Sellers, 58 Fulton Street, New York. Engravers'
+Supplies (screw pressure printing frames).</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. John Sellers &amp; Sons, 17 Dey Street, New York.
+Engravers' Supplies.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Eimer &amp; Amend, 18th Street and 3d Avenue, New
+York. Chemists, Glassblowers Charcoal.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Theodore Metcalf &amp; Co., Tremont Street, Boston,
+Mass. Chemists.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Kimmel &amp; Voigt, 242 Canal Street, New York.
+Expert Photogravure Printers.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Whitely &amp; Co., Centre Street, New York. Polisher
+of Copper Plates.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Gilderslieve &amp; Co., 18th Street, New York. Blankets
+for Press.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Charles Creedner, 19 South William Street, Room 4,
+New York. Japan Paper.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Geo. B. Sharp, 13 Baxter Street, New York. Copper
+Plates.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. F. A. Ringler, 21 Barclay Street, New York. Steel
+Facing Copper Plates, Printers of Photogravures.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Leidel &amp; Co., 901 6th Avenue, corner 51st Street,
+New York. Modeling Wax; Etchers' Supplies.</p>
+
+<p>Thomas Hall (Electrician), Bromfield Street, Boston, Mass.
+Hydrometers (Smee's Battery), etc.</p>
+
+<p>New York Steel and Copper Plate Co., 171 Wallabout
+Street, Brooklyn, N. Y.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Jas. Moffet, 159 Wooster Street, New York. Copper
+Plates in the Rough.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 448px;">
+<img src="images/i_054.png" width="448" height="274" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span></p>
+<h2>CHAPTER X.</h2>
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">Books and Articles on Photogravure. Published from
+1888 to 1893.</span></h2>
+
+
+<p>La Photogravure facile et &agrave; bon march&eacute;. Par l'Abb&eacute;
+Ferret. Paris. 1889. Price, 1 fr. 25 cents.</p>
+
+<p>Manuel d'Heliographie et de Photogravure en Relief.
+Par G. Bonnet. 1890. Paris. 2 fr. 50 cents.</p>
+
+<p>Photogravure. By W. T. Wilkinson. 1890. London, E. C.
+Published by Messrs Iliffe &amp; Son, 3 St. Bride Street. Price,
+1<i>s.</i> 6<i>d.</i></p>
+
+<p>Photo-Engraving and Photo-Etching. By W. T. Wilkinson.
+Sold by The Scovill &amp; Adams Co., New York. Price,
+$3.00.</p>
+
+<p>Hamerton's "Etchers and Etching." Roberts Bros., Boston,
+Mass. Price, $4.00.</p>
+
+<p>Photo-Etching in India. Article in <i>Photographic News</i>
+(English), November 1, 1889.</p>
+
+<p>"Photogravure, or Photographic Etching on Copper." By
+Herbert Denison. A lecture delivered before the Photographic
+Society of Great Britain. Printed in <span class="smcap">The Photographic
+Times</span>, April 21st, 1893, and following issues.</p>
+
+<p>Photogravure or Photo-Etching. Article in <i>Wilson's
+Magazine</i>, 1890-1891.</p>
+
+<p>Notes on Photo-Aquatint. Catalogue of Exhibition, Illustrating
+the Reproductive Arts and Photo-Mechanical
+Processes. Address S. R. Koehler, Boston Art Museum,
+Boston, Mass.</p>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="footnotes">
+<h3>FOOTNOTES</h3>
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> Now Boussod, Valadon et Cie.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_B_2" id="Footnote_B_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_B_2"><span class="label">[B]</span></a> <i>British Journal Almanac</i>, 1874.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_C_3" id="Footnote_C_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_C_3"><span class="label">[C]</span></a> Reversed as regards right and left.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_D_4" id="Footnote_D_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_D_4"><span class="label">[D]</span></a> N. B.&mdash;During cold weather use only half the quantity
+of Chrome Alum in above.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+
+<h2>Merck's Pyrogallic Acid</h2>
+
+
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 253px;">
+<img src="images/i_056.png" width="253" height="448" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="noidt"><b>will be found, upon
+comparison, to be
+<i>superior</i> in every
+respect to all other
+brands on the market.
+Its distinctive
+points of superiority
+are:</b></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">1ST.</span>&mdash;ABSOLUTE PURITY</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">2D.</span>&mdash;PERFECT CRYSTALLIZATION</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">3D.</span>&mdash;IMMACULATE WHITENESS</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">4TH.</span>&mdash;EXTREME LIGHTNESS</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">5TH.</span>&mdash;MODERATE COST</p>
+
+<p> &nbsp; &nbsp; (Its price is not higher
+than that of any other
+make.)</p>
+
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class="bb bt">
+<p class="center ft15"><b>Merck's Pyrogallic Acid</b></p>
+
+<p class="noidt">produces the highest intensity to be desired in a photographic
+plate, and, at the same time, the finest detail in light
+and shade required for the most perfect printing negative.</p>
+
+<p>Under ordinary precaution, it retains all its superior
+qualities undiminished for an indefinite length of time.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="u"><small>WHEN ORDERING SPECIFY</small></span> <b>"MERCK'S."</b></p>
+
+<p class="center"><small>TO BE HAD OF</small> <b><big>ALL DEALERS</big>.</b></p>
+
+
+<hr style='width: 35%;' />
+<h4>TESTIMONIALS.</h4>
+<hr style='width: 5%;' />
+
+<p>"I have tested Merck's pyro carefully in comparison with the other
+pyros at present on the market, and I find that it is superior to any and
+all of them."</p>
+
+<p><span class='bprice'>
+<span style="margin-right: 6em;">Prof. <span class="smcap">Charles Ehrmann</span>,</span><br />
+Instructor of the Chautauqua School of Photography.</span><br /><br />
+</p>
+
+
+<hr style='width: 5%;' />
+<p>"I shall, in future, certainly use no other pyro but Merck's. The
+best is always good enough for me."</p>
+
+<p><span class='bprice'>
+<span style="margin-right: 5em;"><span class="smcap">Alfred Stieglitz</span>,</span><br />
+Editor <i>American Amateur Photographer</i>.</span><br /><br />
+</p>
+
+
+<hr style='width: 5%;' />
+<p>"Merck's Pyrogallic Acid will be found a very superior article. Its
+purity is absolute, with quick crystallization and immaculate whiteness.
+In use, it produces the highest intensity that can be desired in the negatives.
+The detail in light and shade is perfect, producing printing
+qualities unsurpassed by any pyro we have ever used."</p>
+
+<p><span class='bprice'>
+<span class="smcap">St. Louis and Canadian Photographer.</span></span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+<hr style='width: 5%;' />
+<p>"Merck's pyro has undergone a severe test in my hands. I find it
+to possess many qualities which give it superiority over all other makes.
+Authorities place the solubility of pyro as one part in two of water.
+I found one ounce of Merck's to dissolve readily in 1:7 of water at 60&deg;.
+It is extremely light, pure, and of a fine white color, giving rich negatives
+full of vigor and sparkling brilliancy."</p>
+
+<p><span class='bprice'>
+<span style="margin-right: 5em;"><span class="smcap">Walter E. Woodbury</span>,</span><br />
+Editor of <i>The Photographic Times</i>.</span><br /><br />
+</p>
+
+
+<hr style='width: 5%;' />
+<p>"I have used Merck's Pyrogallic Acid, and prefer it to all others."</p>
+
+<p><span class='bprice'>
+<span style="margin-right: 10em;"><span class="smcap">B. W. Kilburn</span>,</span><br />
+Official Photographer (Stereoscopic), at the Columbian World's Fair, and
+San Francisco Mid-Winter Exposition.</span><br /><br />
+</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 5%;' />
+<p>"I have tried Merck's pyro and must certainly say it is the best I
+ever used. The results I have obtained with it are remarkably fine."</p>
+
+<p><span class='bprice'>
+<span style="margin-right: 5em;"><span class="smcap">W. B. Post</span>,</span><br />
+Amateur Photographer, New York.</span><br /><br />
+</p>
+
+
+<hr style='width: 5%;' />
+<p><span class='bprice'>
+<span class="smcap">Moreno Studio</span>, Fifth Ave., New York.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>"I have been using Merck's pyro in my studio, and am very well
+pleased with it. It is clean, gives brilliant negatives, and is reliable,
+one day's work being exactly the same as another's."</p>
+
+<p><span class='bprice'>
+<span class="smcap">A. Moreno.</span></span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+<hr style='width: 5%;' />
+<p>"I have been using Merck's pyro, and am ready to indorse the high
+praise which you have found it entitled to: 'that it is superior in point
+of purity, lightness and solubility' to any like product that I have seen.
+In fact, 'the new and improved process' seems to reach in its result
+the point beyond which it is impossible to go&mdash;that is, perfection. This
+was my impression at first sight, and using serves only to confirm it.</p>
+
+<p>In my opinion, pyro stands at the head of all developers of dry
+plates, and I am much mistaken if Merck's pyro, when known, does not
+lead all brands of pyro."</p>
+
+<p><span class='bprice'>
+<span style="margin-right: 5em;"><span class="smcap">W. H. Sherman</span>,</span><br />
+Professional Photographer, Milwaukee.</span><br /><br />
+</p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>1</span></p>
+<h2>Scovill &amp; Adams Photo-Engraving Materials,</h2>
+
+<h4>Combined in a small outfit for Half-tone Photo-Engraving.</h4>
+
+
+<p>The articles contained in this outfit are all that is necessary for the
+Half-tone Process, except when the installation of large and expensive
+machinery is warranted.</p>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>1 10 x 12 American Optical Co. Enlarging, Reducing and Copying Camera, fitted with Patent Screen Plate Holder</td><td align='right'>$56 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 Camera Swing</td><td align='right'>20 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 Copy Board</td><td align='right'>2 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 Max Levy Screen, 133 lines to the inch, 10 x 12 </td><td align='right'>80 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 Max Levy Screen, 150 lines to the inch, 10 x 12 </td><td align='right'>95 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 Rectilinear Lens, Rapid Paragon, 10 x 12, w. D.</td><td align='right'>68 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>2 2-qt. Funnels, glass, 25c.</td><td align='right'>50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>6 8-oz. &nbsp; &nbsp; " &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; " &nbsp; &nbsp; 12c.</td><td align='right'>72</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 pkg. No. 33 Filtering Paper</td><td align='right'>75</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>2 Hydrometers, 50c.</td><td align='right'>1 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>2 11 x 14 Glass Baths in Studio Box, $7 </td><td align='right'>14 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 Rubber Dipper</td><td align='right'>60</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 2-gall. Evap. Dish</td><td align='right'>3 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>2 10 x 12 Porcelain Trays, $1.66</td><td align='right'>3 32</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>2 10 x 12 Vulcanite Trays, $1.75</td><td align='right'>3 50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>2 16-oz. Graduates, 75c.</td><td align='right'>1 50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>4 4-oz. &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; " &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 30c.</td><td align='right'>1 20</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 9 x 11 Printing Frame, 1-in. glass&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; </td><td align='right'> 9 50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 8 x 10 Retouching Frame</td><td align='right'>3 75</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>2 large Neg. Racks</td><td align='right'>6 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 13-in. French Hand Roller</td><td align='right'>7 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 Composition Roller, 12-in.</td><td align='right'>4 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>2 Pincers</td><td align='right'>2 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>2 Acid Brushes</td><td align='right'>3 50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 Ink Spatula</td><td align='right'>1 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 Hook for cutting Zinc Plates</td><td align='right'>1 50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Retouching Brushes</td><td align='right'>50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 gal. Absolute Alcohol</td><td align='right'>4 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>3&frac12; lbs. Ether</td><td align='right'>2 63</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>4 oz. Pary's Gun Cotton, 50c.</td><td align='right'>2 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>4 oz. Iodide Potass., 30c.</td><td align='right'>1 20</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>2 oz. Resubl. Iodine, 35c.</td><td align='right'>70</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>3 lbs. Nitrate Silver Crystal, $8.50&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;</td><td align='right'>25 50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 lb. Absorbent Cotton, 1 lb. packages&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;</td><td align='right'>75</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>5 lbs. Protosulph. Iron, 10c.</td><td align='right'>50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 lb. Citric Acid</td><td align='right'>70</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 &nbsp;"&nbsp; Bichloride Mercury</td><td align='right'>1 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>5 &nbsp;"&nbsp; Cyanide Potash</td><td align='right'>3 25</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 &nbsp;"&nbsp; Glycerine</td><td align='right'>30</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>5 b'ks Blue Litmus Paper, 5c.</td><td align='right'>25</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 lb. Aqua Ammonia fort.</td><td align='right'>32</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&frac12; lb. Nitric Acid, C. P.</td><td align='right'>45</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 gall. Benzole</td><td align='right'>1 50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 lb. Bichromate Ammonia</td><td align='right'>75</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 &nbsp;"&nbsp; Caustic Potash</td><td align='right'>15</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>8 &nbsp;"&nbsp; Com'l Nitric Acid, 45c.</td><td align='right'>3 60</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 &nbsp;"&nbsp; Ferri Chloride, 1 bot.</td><td align='right'>30</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 &nbsp;"&nbsp; Rubber Cement, 1 can</td><td align='right'>30</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 &nbsp;"&nbsp; Nitrate Lead, 1 bot.</td><td align='right'>1 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 &nbsp;"&nbsp; Ferricyan. Potash, 1 bot.</td><td align='right'>1 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&frac12; " Transfer Ink</td><td align='right'>2 50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>&frac12; " Engraver's Charcoal</td><td align='right'>1 50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 &nbsp;"&nbsp; Pumice Stone</td><td align='right'>10</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>5 &nbsp;"&nbsp; Sulphate Copper, 40c.</td><td align='right'>2 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>2 &nbsp;"&nbsp; &#8540;-in. Brass Pins, 40c.</td><td align='right'>80</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 &nbsp;"&nbsp; Lith. Ink, black</td><td align='right'>3 50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>2 galls. Le Page's Liquid Glue, $2.25 </td><td align='right'> 4 50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 Shoot Board and Plane</td><td align='right'>25 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 set Engraving Tools</td><td align='right'>1 50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 &nbsp; "&nbsp; Finishing &nbsp; &nbsp;"</td><td align='right'>2 50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 &frac12;-in. Flat File</td><td align='right'>50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 1-in. &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; "</td><td align='right'>85</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 set Ass'd Sable Pencils, Nos. 1 to 6</td><td align='right'>62</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 Darlot Focusing Glass</td><td align='right'>2 50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 5-in. Engraver's Pad, filled</td><td align='right'>1 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 Egg Beater</td><td align='right'>30</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 set Roulettes</td><td align='right'>6 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 ream Proof Paper</td><td align='right'>10 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 16-oz. plain Collodion Vial</td><td align='right'>55</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>1 lb. best Dragon's Blood</td><td align='right'>85</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>Polished Zinc Plates, sq. in.</td><td align='right'>01</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; " &nbsp; &nbsp; Copper &nbsp; " &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; " </td><td align='right'> 01&frac14;</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+<h4><span class="smcap">Send for the</span> PHOTO-ENGRAVERS' CATALOGUE to<br />
+THE SCOVILL &amp; ADAMS CO., &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; 423 Broome St., N.Y.
+</h4>
+
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>2</span></p>
+<h2>Copying Cameras</h2>
+
+<h5>FOR</h5>
+
+<h3>PHOTO-ENGRAVING.</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 448px;">
+<img src="images/i_059a.png" width="448" height="122" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h3>The Scovill Enlarging, Reducing and Copying Cameras.</h3>
+
+<h5>With S. &amp; A. Photo-Engravers' Adjustable Screen Plate Holder.</h5>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;">
+<img src="images/i_059b.png" width="800" height="390" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='center'>No.</td><td align='center'>61.</td><td align='center'>Size,</td><td align='center'>6&frac12; &times; 8&frac12;, 4</td><td align='left'>ft. bed &nbsp; &nbsp; </td><td align='center'>Price,</td><td align='center'>$38 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='center'>62.</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>8 &times; 10, 5</td><td align='left'>ft. bed &nbsp; &nbsp; </td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>43 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='center'>63.</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>10 &times; 12, 5</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>56 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='center'>64.</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>11 &times; 14, 5</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>68 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='center'>65.</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>14 &times; 17, 6</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>80 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='center'>66.</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>17 &times; 20, 7</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>95 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='center'>67.</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>20 &times; 24, 7</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>118 00</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Special sizes and styles made to order.</i></p>
+
+<p>The form of construction of this Camera is made apparent
+by the illustration here shown.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'>3</span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><small>SCOVILL</small><br />
+<span class="smcap">Copying Cameras.</span></h2>
+
+<h4>With S. &amp; A. Photo-Engravers' Adjustable Screen Plate Holder.</h4>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;">
+<img src="images/i_060.png" width="800" height="364" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>These Cameras are made of hardwood, shellacked, not
+varnished. Naturally they are without swing, but in every
+requisite they are complete; and for this particular service,
+as well as others, the American Optical Company's make is
+sought for before all others. Such varied lengths of bed are
+required and ordered, that we can only give a price list for
+Copying Cameras with the regulation length of bed. We
+make them to order of any length of platform desired, either
+rigid or detachable, and with either single or double bellows.</p>
+
+<p>Estimates promptly and cheerfully furnished.</p>
+
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='center'>No.</td><td align='center'>70.</td><td align='center'>6&frac12; &times; 8&frac12;,</td><td align='center'>with bed</td><td align='center'>3</td><td align='center'>feet in length &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; </td><td align='center'>Price,</td><td align='center'>$33 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='center'>71.</td><td align='center'>8 &times; 10,</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>3&frac34;</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>38 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='center'>72.</td><td align='center'>10 &times; 12,</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>4</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>46 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='center'>73.</td><td align='center'>11 &times; 14,</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>4&frac12;</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>53 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='center'>74.</td><td align='center'>14 &times; 17,</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>5</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>66 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='center'>75.</td><td align='center'>17 &times; 20,</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>6</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>72 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='center'> "</td><td align='center'>76.</td><td align='center'>20 &times; 24,</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>6</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>98 00</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Larger sizes made to order.</i></p>
+
+<p class="center">When ordering Copying Camera, please give length of cone, if that is
+needed.</p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>4</span></p>
+
+
+
+
+<h2>The S. &amp; A. Photo-Engravers' Adjustable Screen<br />
+Plate Holder.</h2>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 706px;">
+<img src="images/i_061.png" width="706" height="600" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">(Patent applied for.)</p>
+
+<p>This Holder, as is shown in the cut above, is a great improvement over any heretofore
+manufactured for photo-engraving purposes. Its principal points of superiority are,
+briefly:</p>
+
+<p>First.&mdash;The ease with which it is adjusted for different size plates and screens, by a
+simple sliding movement of the two inside frames to or from the centre, and thus dispensing
+with the expensive and troublesome use of kit frames.</p>
+
+<p>Second.&mdash;The convenience by which the screen plate is accurately adjusted to the sensitized
+plate by means of the metallic sliding adjusters. (Heretofore it has been necessary
+to do the adjusting by means of inserting different thicknesses of cardboard, paper, etc.)</p>
+
+<p>Third.&mdash;Different thicknesses in the screen plates are allowed for by means of a spring
+which always holds the plate in accurate place, no matter what its thickness may be.</p>
+
+<p>Fourth.&mdash;A graduated scale on each screen adjuster makes it easy to always insure absolute
+accuracy in determining the distance of the screen plate from the wet plate.</p>
+
+<p>Fifth.&mdash;The simplicity of construction and excellent workmanship of the entire holder,
+being made, as it is, in the factory of the famous American Optical Company.</p>
+
+<p>And, altogether, it is an ingeniously designed and beautifully constructed holder,
+which will be found of indispensable aid to the practical photographer.</p>
+
+<p>These holders are thicker than the ordinary plate holders, and if it is desired to use
+them on a camera the ground glass of which is focused for the ordinary plate holder, a
+new ground glass frame is necessary in order to adjust the focus. When ordering a holder
+to fit a camera in use, send the old holder or the old ground glass frame, so that the new
+ones can be made to fit the camera. Also state the size of largest and smallest screen plate
+to be used in holder.</p>
+
+<p>It is made in various sizes. Prices as follows:</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='right' colspan='4'></td><td align='center'>Frames <i>only</i>;<br />for Ground Glass.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'></td><td align='right'>8 &times; 10</td><td align='center'>size </td><td align='right'> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; $15 50</td><td align='right'>$1 50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'></td><td align='right'>10 &times; 12</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>21 00</td><td align='right'>1 50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'></td><td align='right'>11 &times; 14</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>26 50</td><td align='right'>1 88</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'></td><td align='right'>14 &times; 17</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>29 00</td><td align='right'>2 25</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'></td><td align='right'>17 &times; 20</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>32 50</td><td align='right'>2 63</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'></td><td align='right'>18 &times; 22</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>36 00</td><td align='right'>2 63</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'></td><td align='right'>20 &times; 24</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>40 75</td><td align='right'>3 00</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p class="center">If adjustment from the outside of holder is desired, add $2.00 to above prices.</p>
+
+<h4>THE SCOVILL &amp; ADAMS CO., 423 Broome St., New York City.</h4>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>5</span></p>
+
+
+
+<h2>The Scovill Printing Frames for Photo-Engraving.</h2>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 612px;">
+<img src="images/i_062a.png" width="612" height="600" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>The Printing Frames made by the American Optical Co. for photo-engraving are like
+everything else manufactured by this factory, of the highest degree of perfection, and the
+utmost care was given to the comparative distance of screws so as to produce an even
+pressure. Many negatives have been either ruined or snapped by the use of imperfect
+Printing Frames.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;">
+<img src="images/i_062b.png" width="800" height="415" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>The American Optical Co. Printing Frames for photo-engraving are the only safe
+ones on the market.</p>
+
+<h4>PRICES.</h4>
+
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='right'> 8 &times; 10,</td><td align='center'>including</td><td align='center'>one-inch</td><td align='center'>glass</td><td align='right'> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; $8 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>10 &times; 12,</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>11 02</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'> 9 &times; 11,</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>9 50</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>11 &times; 14,</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>13 00</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right'>14 &times; 17,</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='center'>"</td><td align='right'>19 00</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>Larger and special sizes made to order.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>6</span></p>
+<p class="ft20 u"><b>To Photo Engravers:</b></p>
+
+
+<p>Having systematically undertaken the improvement of
+photo engravers' appliances, we follow the S. &amp; A. Photo
+Engravers' Adjustable Screen Plate Holder, and the S. &amp; A.
+accurately adjusted Photo-Engraving Printing Frames, with
+the</p>
+
+<h4><small>S. &amp; A.</small><br />
+
+
+<big>Photo-Engraving Etching Tub,</big></h4>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 640px;">
+<img src="images/i_063a.png" width="640" height="123" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="noidt">to which we call the attention of those interested in this
+business. We extend to them a cordial invitation to examine
+the same at our salesrooms.</p>
+
+<h5></h5><div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;">
+<img src="images/i_063b.png" width="800" height="362" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>These Photo-Engraving Etching Tubs will "fill a long
+felt want" with the photo engravers, as they are constructed
+so as to resist the strongest acids, and combine the features
+suggested by practical experience.</p>
+
+<p>The tub measures, inside, 48&frac12; inches long, 20&frac14; inches
+wide, and 7&#8541; inches deep, and the price of same is $10.00.</p>
+
+<p class="center">Very truly yours,</p>
+
+<p class="ft15" style="text-align: right">The Scovill &amp; Adams Co.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>7</span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 1024px;">
+<img src="images/i_064a.jpg" width="1024" height="647" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h3>IN OLDEN TIMES</h3>
+
+<p class="noidt">people were satisfied to worry along with whatever
+crude appliances came easiest to hand....</p>
+
+<p class="noidt"><b>The material progress</b> of the nineteenth century,
+however, has created a demand for a higher order
+of mechanical products than was formerly deemed
+essential, and this is peculiarly the case with ...</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 640px;">
+<h3>Process Engravers.</h3>
+<img src="images/i_064b.png" width="640" height="103" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="noidt"><b>To meet this demand</b>, the firm of <span class="smcap">John Royle &amp;
+Sons</span> have devoted the best part of their time, for
+the past 25 years, to the improvement of the mechanical
+accessories to Process Engraving, and with
+what success is best testified to by the fact that their
+machinery is used exclusively by the <i>best</i> Process
+Engravers, both in the United States and abroad.</p>
+
+<h5>
+<big>JOHN ROYLE &amp; SONS,</big><br />
+Paterson, N. J., U. S. A.<br />
+</h5>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>8</span></p>
+<p class="ft20"><b>Chrome=Gelatine <sup><span class="u">and</span> . .</sup><br />
+Photo=Gelatine.</b></p>
+
+
+<p>Chrome-Gelatine is a perfected modification of the three-color printing
+process. It is so named from the Gelatine process of printing being
+used to produce the resulting pictures, which are allowed to be really
+wonderful, and which may be reproductions from original Oil Paintings,
+Water-colors, Views from Nature, Objects of Still Life, Textile Fabrics&mdash;indeed,
+all classes of work copied from originals in color. The results,
+in all cases, are produced from three-color negatives. Artists,
+whose works have been reproduced by this method, express their satisfaction
+of the results in the highest terms, without qualification.</p>
+
+<h5>
+<big>N. Y. Photogravure Co.</big><br />
+137 West 23d Street,<br />
+New York.<br />
+</h5>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<p class="ft20"><b>Photogravure <sup><span class="u">and</span></sup> Aquarelle</b><br />
+&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; <small>(<i>Photogravure in Colors.</i>)</small></p>
+
+<p>Photogravures are of all classes of subjects.</p>
+
+<p>An important modification of this process has recently been perfected
+(patent applied for), by which the delicacy of the gelatine print is
+maintained, at the same time that great strength and color is produced
+in the shadows. The plates thus made are very durable, and show but
+little wear after many thousands of impressions have been produced.
+Moreover, they require no finishing or handling after having been
+etched, and are quite easily printed.</p>
+
+<p>Aquarelles are printed from photogravure plates, inked up locally
+in a variety of colors. When the whole of the plate has been so inked,
+the impression is pulled. The results are beautiful, but the process of
+printing is exceedingly slow&mdash;three or four impressions a day, only,
+being obtainable from a moderate sized plate.</p>
+
+<h5>
+<big>N. Y. Photogravure Co.</big><br />
+137 West 23d Street,<br />
+New York.<br /></h5>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>9</span></p>
+<h2> &middot; &middot; <i>Publications</i> &middot; &middot; </h2>
+
+
+<p>THE N. Y. PHOTOGRAVURE CO. has on hand
+thousands of subjects of all classes, available for the
+purposes of illustration, and at the service of its customers.
+The newest and best subjects are being continually added
+to this collection. Sets of illustrations selected with the
+greatest care and skill, for any desired purpose.</p>
+
+<h5><i>
+<big>The N. Y. Photogravure Co.</big><br />
+137 West 23d Street,<br />
+New York.<br />
+</i></h5>
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<h3>SUN AND SHADE.</h3>
+
+<h4>An Artistic Periodical.<br />
+Published Monthly.</h4>
+
+<p>Forty cents a number. Four dollars a year. Each number contains
+eight exquisite Photogravures, Photo-gelatines or Color Prints, by the
+new Chrome-gelatine process, printed on paper 11 &times; 14 inches, with descriptive
+letter-press. Six volumes are now complete, price $4.00 each.
+Each volume contains nearly one hundred plates. The whole six volumes
+form a complete gallery of current art.</p>
+
+<p>"SUN AND SHADE reproduces not only the most notable paintings
+and portraits, but the best work of amateur and professional photographers.
+If it gave nothing but the latter work it would be deserving
+of the most liberal patronage that it receives; but it is an admirable
+record of the greatest paintings at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, of
+living American players, of portraits of celebrated Americans, of great
+American painters, with reproductions of their work, and it is a monument
+of the N. Y. Photogravure Co., which is a monument of artistic
+New York."</p>
+
+<h5><i><big>The N. Y. Photogravure Co.</big><br />
+137 West 23d Street,<br />
+New York.</i></h5>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>10</span></p>
+<h3>ALFRED SELLERS &amp; CO.</h3>
+
+<h5>MANUFACTURERS OF</h5>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 640px;">
+<img src="images/i_067.png" width="640" height="325" alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ZINC COPPER <small>AND</small> BRASS PLATES<br />
+<small>FOR</small><br />
+Photo-Engravers.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+<h3><i>
+<span style="margin-right: 6em;">Printing Frames, Etching Tubs,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 6em;">Etching Powders, Rollers, Etc.</span>
+</i></h3>
+
+<h4>SELLERS' SPECIAL TRANSFER.<br />
+ETCHING AND PROVING INKS.<br />
+</h4>
+
+<p class="center">Inking Slabs, Chemicals (Chas. Cooper &amp; Co.'s), Formulas,
+and all Supplies for Photo-Engravers.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 5%;" />
+<h4>Photo-Engraving Taught</h4>
+
+<p class="center">IN ALBUMEN, BITUMEN, OR THE ENAMEL PROCESS.</p>
+
+<h4>T<span class="u"><small>RY THE NEW</small></span> RUSSELL ETCHING POWDER.</h4>
+
+<h5>
+Supplies in General. &nbsp; &nbsp; Send for Price List.<br />
+
+<i><big>59 Beekman Street, New York, N. Y.</big></i><br />
+U. S. A.</h5>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>11</span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 640px;">
+<img src="images/i_068a.png" width="640" height="333" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+<p class="center">E. C. MEINECKE &middot; ERNEST BURTT &middot; H W ROWLAND &middot;</p>
+
+<h4><big><span class="smcap">E. C. Meinecke &amp; Co.</span></big><br />
+ 63 WEST 22<sup>ND</sup> STREET.<br />
+ <span class="smcap">Room 5.</span> &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; <span class="smcap">New York.</span><br />
+</h4>
+
+<p class="center">
+PHOTO-GRAVURE.<br />
+PHOTO-GELATINE.<br />
+PHOTO-LITHOGRAPHY.<br />
+LITHOGRAPHY.<br />
+PHOTO-ENGRAVING.<br />
+TYPE-PRINTING.<br />
+<br />
+WORKS. BROOKLYN. N.Y.<br />
+</p>
+
+
+<p>The favorable comments received from all sources testify
+to the unrivaled results obtained by the <span class="smcap">Photogravure Process</span>,
+as worked by our method.</p>
+
+<p>In reviewing a set of photogravures of the Clifton Water Garden,
+from negatives by the proprietor, Mr. S. C. Nash, the <i>Florists' Exchange</i>,
+says:</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"In his work he has been ably seconded by Messrs. E. C. Meinecke
+&amp; Co., of New York, the makers and printers of the plates. Without
+fear of contradiction, we state there is no method of reproducing a
+picture to compare with the photogravure process, except, possibly, the
+expensive and tedious steel plate. For fidelity to detail, sharpness of
+outline, contrast of light and shadow, breadth and depth, and absolute
+fidelity to life, we choose this.</p></div>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 640px;">
+<img src="images/i_068b.png" width="640" height="251" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<h4><big>The Photogravure Process</big><br />
+<br />
+<i>IS THE BEST FOR</i></h4>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>
+<b>Book Illustrations</b><br />
+<b>Art and Trade Catalogues</b><br />
+<b>Calendars, Menus, Etc.</b><br />
+</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+<p class="center">
+where the most artistic results are desired. Either<br />
+<br />
+<b>PLATES SUPPLIED</b><br />
+<br />
+combining the BEST WEARING QUALITIES with the most Artistic<br />
+Finish, or editions ready for the binder.<br />
+<br />
+Your correspondence is solicited, and a trial order requested, which<br />
+will be executed promptly and in the best manner.</p>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>12</span></p>
+
+
+<h2>AMATEURS!</h2>
+
+<h5>In order to get the</h5>
+
+<p class="center ft20 u">Best Results</p>
+
+<h5>You must use the</h5>
+
+<p class="center ft15 u">CRAMER PLATE</p>
+
+<h5>Manufactured by</h5>
+
+<p class="center ft15">G. Cramer Dry Plate Works,</p>
+
+<h4>St. Louis, Mo.</h4>
+
+<hr style="width: 5%;" />
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'><b>Your Dealer does not<br />
+KEEP<br />
+Cramer Plates,<br />
+he SELLS them.</b></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>13</span></p>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="ft20">If you want to</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'>secure<br />
+the best Photogravure<br />
+results,</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'><span class="ft20"> &nbsp; &nbsp; Then you must</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align='left'> &nbsp; &nbsp; use the best plates,<br />
+ &nbsp; &nbsp; and<br />
+ &nbsp; &nbsp; these are</td></tr>
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'><span class="ft20"><b>Wuestner's</b></span></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'><span class="ft20">
+"White Label"<br />
+50 Sens.<br />
+Plate.</span></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 5%;" />
+<p class="center"><span class="ft15">WUESTNER'S<br />
+<b>New Eagle Dry Plate Works.</b></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 5%;" />
+<p class="center">For Sale by all Dealers.</p>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>14</span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 640px;">
+<img src="images/i_071.png" width="640" height="309" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="ft15">OUR BUSINESS <small>IS TO SELL</small> EVERYTHING USED IN PHOTOGRAPHY</span><br />
+DOUGLASS &amp; SHUEY CO. III STATE ST. CHICAGO.<br />
+</p>
+
+
+<h2>Photogravure Worker.</h2>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="1" cellspacing="20" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>Have<br />you<br />tried</td><td align='left'><b>THE ORIGINAL</b></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p class="center ft20"><span class="smcap">Zeiss * Lens?</span></p>
+
+<h3><b>NO?</b></h3>
+
+<h3><i>BETTER DO SO AT ONCE.</i></h3>
+
+<h4>THE SCOVILL &amp; ADAMS CO.<br />
+HAVE THEM!</h4>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'>15</span></p>
+<h2>ZEISS-ANASTIGMAT<br />
+<big>LENSES</big></h2>
+
+<h4>Manufactured by</h4>
+
+<h3>BAUSCH &amp; LOMB &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;<br />
+&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; OPTICAL CO.</h3>
+
+<h4>ARE UNAPPROACHED for all<br />
+Process Work, and are rapidly<br />
+displacing other forms of<br />
+Lenses.</h4>
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='center'>515-543<br />N. St. Paul Street,</td><td align='left'><big>Rochester, N. Y.,</big></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'><big>New York City,</big></td><td align='center'>Corner<br />Fulton &amp; Nassau Sts.</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>16</span></p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/i_073a.png" width="450" height="600" alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption"><small>EDITED BY</small><br />
+WALTER E. WOODBURY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p class="ft20 center"><b><span class="smcap">The Photographic Times</span></b></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="center"><span class="ft15 smcap">An Illustrated Monthly Magazine<br />
+devoted to the interests of<br />
+Artistic &amp; Scientific Photography.</span></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p class="center">THE &middot; PHOTOGRAPHIC &middot; TIMES &middot; PUBLISHING &middot; <br />
+ASSOCIATION &middot; 423 &middot; BROOME &middot; STREET &middot; NEW &middot; YORK</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left' colspan='2'><big>Each<br />
+number<br />
+contains</big>
+</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><small>from</small></td><td><span class="ft30"><b>50</b></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right' valign='top'><small>to</small></td><td><span class="ft30"><b>60</b></span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='right' colspan='2'><span class="ft20">Illustrations!</span></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p class="ft10"><b>besides a magnificent : : : : : : <br />
+<big>PHOTOGRAVURE FRONTISPIECE.</big></b></p>
+
+<div style="clear: both;"></div>
+<div class="blockquot">
+
+<div class="bt"></div>
+<div class="figright" style="width: 448px;">
+<img src="images/i_073b.png" width="448" height="140" alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">Photographic Magazine</span><br />
+<span class="ft20">in the world.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="ft20">The Most</span><br />
+<span class="ft30">&ldquo;up to date&rdquo;</span></p>
+
+
+<div class="bt"></div>
+</div>
+
+<h4>ALL THE BEST AND<br />
+LATEST IMPROVEMENTS CHRONICLED BY THE BEST<br />
+WRITERS.</h4>
+
+
+<h4>Reproductions of all the finest photographic work<br />
+from all parts of the world.</h4>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>17</span></p>
+<h4>A FEW UNSOLICITED OPINIONS OF</h4>
+<p class="ft20 center"><b>The &middot; Photographic &middot; Times.</b></p>
+
+<p>"It is a daisy."&mdash;Hon. <span class="smcap">A. A. Adee</span>.</p>
+
+<p>"It is a veritable triumph of photographic literature."&mdash;<span class="smcap">J. J. Carter.</span></p>
+
+<p>"One of the finest illustrated magazines received by us is <span class="smcap">The
+Photographic Times</span>."&mdash;<i>Chenango Telegraph.</i></p>
+
+<p>"If my opinion is of any value, I will tell you that it is far and
+away ahead of anything that has ever been attempted."&mdash;<span class="smcap">H. J. Aiken.</span></p>
+
+<p>"You have certainly reached the very height of possibilities in a
+photographic magazine."&mdash;<span class="smcap">Arthur J. Benton.</span></p>
+
+<p>"The photographic art has hitherto had no better exponent, and
+the publishers of this magazine are determined to keep at the head of
+the literature of their profession. The many original articles are fully
+illustrated."&mdash;<i>The Portland Transcript.</i></p>
+
+<p>"Be sure and continue sending it. Can't keep house without it."&mdash;<span class="smcap">J.
+E. Craig.</span></p>
+
+<p>"It is a beauty in every sense."&mdash;<span class="smcap">Chas. Wager Hull.</span></p>
+
+<p>"The subject-matter, the number and quality of the illustrations,
+the typographic work and the general appearance of <span class="smcap">The Photographic
+Times</span>, monthly, are, separately and collectively, cause for hearty congratulation.
+Permit me to hereby extend mine, together with sincere
+wishes for your continued success."&mdash;<span class="smcap">C. D. Cheney.</span></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot">
+<p style='text-align: right'>________________________ 189</p>
+<p class="center"><big>The Photographic Times Publishing Association,</big><br />
+<b>423 Broome Street, New York, N. Y.</b></p>
+
+<p><i>Please send me</i> <b>The Photographic Times</b>, <i>commencing</i>
+<i>with</i> _________________ 189 , <i>for</i> __________________
+<i>to my address</i>:<br />
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="5" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'><i>Name</i>,</td><td align='left'>______________________________________</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'><i>P. O.</i>,</td><td align='left'>______________________________________</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'><i>County</i>,</td><td align='left'>______________________________________</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'><i>State</i>,</td><td align='left'>______________________________________</td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p>Subscription rates, one year, $4.00; six months, $2.00; three months,
+$1.00; single copies, 35 cents.</p>
+
+<p>Remit by Express, Money Order, Draft, P. O. Order, or Registered
+Letter.</p>
+
+<p>Subscriptions to <span class="smcap">The Photographic Times</span> received by all dealers
+in photographic materials in this and foreign countries; also by The
+American News Company and all its branches.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>18</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 640px;">
+<img src="images/i_075.png" width="640" height="160" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 450px;">
+<img src="images/i_075b.png" width="272" height="448" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center"><span class="ft20"><b>The Photographic Appetite</b></span></p>
+
+<p class="noidt">increases by what it feeds on. The beginner
+is usually content to start with a modest outfit,
+but as interest grows the hunger for more artistic
+results calls for
+better facilities so that
+the apparatus must
+constantly be of a more
+improved pattern and
+contain all the latest
+fixings, till finally the
+question of improvement
+is entirely one of
+the value of the lens.</p>
+
+
+<p>To suit this growing
+appetite we make a line
+of camera boxes unequaled
+for workmanship
+and convenient
+appliances. We can
+supply any stage of
+hunger, and make to order to suit any whim.
+Any photographic question cheerfully answered.
+Send for our Catalogue.</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='center' colspan='2'>4 &times; 5 Size</td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Empire,</td><td align='left'><b>&nbsp;$5.00</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The New Waterbury,</td><td align='left'><b>$15.00</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Henry Clay 2d,</td><td align='left'><b>$15.00</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Waterbury,</td><td align='left'><b>$25.00</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Henry Clay, Jr.</td><td align='left'><b>$30.00</b></td></tr>
+<tr><td align='left'>The Henry Clay,</td><td align='left'><b>$50.00</b></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<h3>The Scovill &amp; Adams Co.<br />
+<small>423 Broome Street, New York.</small>
+</h3>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>19</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 640px;">
+<img src="images/i_076x.png" width="640" height="179" alt="" title="" />
+<span class="caption">ANTHION-SCHERING<br />
+<span class="u">The Best Hypo Eliminator.</span></span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p class="center ft20">DIRECTIONS FOR USE.</p>
+
+<h4>THE SOLUTION.</h4>
+
+<p>Five grammes (75 grains) <b>Anthion</b> are dissolved in one litre (one
+quart) of luke-warm distilled water. The solution keeps for at least
+one month.</p>
+
+<h4><i>A. For Gelatine Plates.</i></h4>
+
+<p><i>a.</i> The plate (13 &times; 18 centimetres&mdash;5 &times; 7 inches) or film, after fixing, is
+allowed to drain and then washed for about five minutes in a dish with
+about 600 cubic centimetres (20 fluid ounces) water; it is then again
+allowed to drain.</p>
+
+<p><i>b.</i> Afterward it is laid in a second dish with 200 c.c. (7 fluid ounces)
+<b>Anthion solution</b>, and again allowed to remain for five minutes with occasional
+stirring.</p>
+
+<p><i>c.</i> The plate is then once more laid in 600 c.c. (20 fluid ounces) fresh
+water, exactly according to direction <i>a</i>.</p>
+
+<p><i>d.</i> The operations <i>b</i> and <i>c</i> are repeated.</p>
+
+<p>The plate is then <b>free from fixing soda</b>. (In order to determine this,
+proceed as follows:)</p>
+
+<h4><i>Test.</i></h4>
+
+<p>To be certain that all the fixing soda is completely destroyed, proceed
+as follows: Several c.c. (half to one teaspoonful) of the last washing
+water are poured into a test-tube, and three or four drops silver
+nitrate solution (1 to 20) added. A white precipitate generally forms.
+If this gradually acquires a <b>yellow</b> tint, fixing soda is still present.</p>
+
+<p>In such a case operations <i>a</i> and <i>b</i> are to be repeated.</p>
+
+<h4><i>B. For Positive Paper Prints.</i></h4>
+
+<p>The operations are carried out as under A, but instead of one plate
+five fixed copies (13 &times; 18 c.c.&mdash;5 &times; 7 inches) are taken, allowed to drain one
+by one, then laid singly in water (vide <i>a</i>), afterward in <b>Anthion solution</b>
+(vide <i>b</i>), then again in water (vide <i>c</i>), again in <b>Anthion solution</b> (vide <i>d</i>),
+and finally in water.</p>
+
+<p><b>It is important that the paper prints are frequently separated in
+the different baths.</b> If the prints stick together, the solution does not
+penetrate and cannot act.</p>
+
+<h3>= IMPORTANT =</h3>
+
+<p>For large plates and prints it is not only necessary to use larger
+dishes, but also more liquid, both <b>Anthion solution</b> and water. An
+excess of <b>Anthion</b> or of water is decidedly useful, but less is disadvantageous.</p>
+
+<p>The above directions for washing relate to those who have no continual
+flow of water at hand.</p>
+
+<p>If a continual flow of water is obtainable, it is advisable to wash the
+plates or prints in flowing water for a quarter of an hour, and then dip
+in the <b>Anthion solution</b> and test the result as above.</p>
+
+<h3><small>Send orders to your Dealers, or to</small><br />
+
+<i>The Scovill &amp; Adams Co., &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; New York.</i></h3>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 100%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'>20</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 800px;">
+<img src="images/i_077.png" width="800" height="494" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class='center'>
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="">
+<tr><td align='left'>When purchasing a Developer<br />
+&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; please be particular to specify</td>
+<td><span class="ft20">Schering's</span></td>
+<td align='left'>the oldest and most<br />
+&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; favorably known brand.</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td colspan='3' align='center'><i>Put up with labels and seals as per fac-similes here given.</i></td></tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<p class="center">ONE OUNCE<br />
+<b>PYROGALLIC ACID</b><br />
+RESUBLIMED<br />
+From E. SCHERING,<br />
+MANUFACTURING CHEMIST, BERLIN, GERMANY.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><b>THE STANDARD OF THE LAST&mdash;THIRD&mdash;EDITION OF THE GERMAN PHARMACOP&#338;IA.</b></p>
+
+<h3><big>See that you get the Genuine "Schering's." Excelled by none.</big></h3>
+
+<h3><small>Send Orders to your Dealers, or to</small><br />
+
+THE SCOVILL &amp; ADAMS COMPANY, NEW YORK.</h3>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Photogravure, by Henry R. Blaney
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PHOTOGRAVURE ***
+
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@@ -0,0 +1,3095 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Photogravure, by Henry R. Blaney
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Photogravure
+
+Author: Henry R. Blaney
+
+Release Date: June 17, 2011 [EBook #36446]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PHOTOGRAVURE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chris Curnow and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ [Illustration: THE S. & A. PHOTOGRAPHIC SERIES.]
+
+ Edited by W. I. LINCOLN ADAMS.
+
+
+ No. 1. THE PHOTOGRAPHIC AMATEUR.
+ By J. TRAILL TAYLOR. A Guide to the Young Photographer, either
+ Professional or Amateur. (Second Edition.) Paper covers =$0.50=
+
+ No. 4. HOW TO MAKE PICTURES.
+ By HENRY CLAY PRICE. (Fourth Edition.) The A B C of Dry-Plate
+ Photography. Out of print. (See No. 26)
+
+ No. 5. PHOTOGRAPHY WITH EMULSIONS.
+ By Capt. W. DE W. ABNEY, R.E., F.R.S. A treatise on the theory
+ and practical working of Gelatine and Collodion Emulsion
+ Processes. (Second Edition.) Paper covers =.75=
+
+ No. 7. THE MODERN PRACTICE OF RETOUCHING.
+ As practiced by M. Piquepe, and other celebrated experts. (Eighth
+ Edition.) Paper covers, =50= cents: Library Edition =.75=
+
+ No. 8. THE SPANISH EDITION OF HOW TO MAKE PICTURES.
+ Ligeras Lecciones sobre Fotografia Dedicados a los Aficionados,
+ Cloth bound, =75= cents. Paper covers =.50=
+
+ No. 9. Out of print.
+
+ No. 12. HARDWICH'S PHOTOGRAPHIC CHEMISTRY.
+ A manual of Photographic Chemistry, theoretical and practical.
+ (Ninth Edition) Edited by J. TRAILL TAYLOR.
+ Leatherette binding =2.00=
+
+ No. 13. TWELVE ELEMENTARY LESSONS ON SILVER PRINTING.
+ (Second Edition.) Paper covers =.50=
+
+ No. 14. ABOUT PHOTOGRAPHY AND PHOTOGRAPHERS.
+ A series of interesting essays for the studio and study, to which
+ is added European Rambles with a Camera. By H. BADEN PRITCHARD,
+ F.C.S. Paper covers, =50= cents. Cloth bound =.75=
+
+ No. 15. THE CHEMICAL EFFECT OF THE SPECTRUM.
+ By Dr. J. M. EDER. Cloth bound, =50= cents. Paper covers =.25=
+
+ No. 16. PICTURE MAKING BY PHOTOGRAPHY.
+ By H. P. ROBINSON, author of Pictorial Effect in Photography.
+ Written in popular form and finely illustrated. Library Edition,
+ =$1.00=. Paper covers =.75=
+
+ No. 17. FIRST LESSONS IN AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHY.
+ Out of print. (See Amateur Photography, by W. I. LINCOLN ADAMS.)
+
+ No. 20. DRY PLATE MAKING FOR AMATEURS.
+ By GEORGE L. SINCLAIR, M.D. Pointed, practical and plain.
+ Leatherette binding =.50=
+
+ No. 21. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES
+ ALMANAC FOR 1887.
+ (Second Edition.) Paper cover (postage, 12 cents
+ additional) =0.50=
+ Library Edition (postage, 12 cents additional) =1.00=
+
+ No. 22. PHOTOGRAPHIC PRINTING METHODS.
+ By the Rev. W. H. BURBANK. A Practical Guide to the Professional
+ and Amateur Worker. Cloth bound. (Third Edition) =1.00=
+
+ No. 23. A HISTORY OF PHOTOGRAPHY.
+ Written as a practical guide and an introduction to its latest
+ developments. By W. JEROME HARRISON, F.G.S., and containing a
+ frontispiece of the author. Cloth bound =1.00=
+
+ No. 24. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES
+ ALMANAC FOR 1888.
+ Illustrated. (Second Edition.) Paper (by mail, 12 cents
+ additional) =.50=
+ Library Edition (by mail, 12 cents additional) =1.00=
+
+ No. 25. THE PHOTOGRAPHIC NEGATIVE.
+ A Practical Guide to the Preparation of Sensitive Surfaces by the
+ Calotype, Albumen, Collodion, and Gelatine Processes, on Glass
+ and Paper, with Supplementary Chapter on Development, etc., by
+ the Rev. W. H. BURBANK. Cloth bound. Reduced from $1.50 to =1.00=
+
+ No. 26. THE PHOTOGRAPHIC INSTRUCTOR FOR THE PROFESSIONAL AND AMATEUR.
+ Being the comprehensive series of Practical Lessons issued to
+ the Students of the Chautauqua School of Photography. Revised
+ and enlarged. Edited by W. I. LINCOLN ADAMS, with an Appendix
+ by Prof. CHAS. EHRMANN. (Fourth Edition, enlarged and revised.)
+ Paper covers =1.00=
+ Library Edition =1.50=
+
+ No. 27. LETTERS ON LANDSCAPE PHOTOGRAPHY.
+ By H. P. ROBINSON. Finely illustrated from the author's own
+ photographs and containing a Photogravure frontispiece of the
+ author. Cloth bound. =1.50=
+
+ No. 29. THE PROCESSES OF PURE PHOTOGRAPHY.
+ By W. K. BURTON and ANDREW PRINGLE. A standard work, very
+ complete and freely illustrated. Price, in paper covers, =$2.00=.
+ Library Ed. =2.50=
+
+ No. 30. PICTORIAL EFFECT IN PHOTOGRAPHY.
+ By H. P. ROBINSON. A new edition. Illustrated. Mr. Robinson's
+ first and best work. Cloth bound =1.50=
+
+ No. 32. PRACTICAL PHOTO-MICROGRAPHY.
+ By ANDREW PRINGLE. Fully illustrated. Cloth bound =2.50=
+
+ No. 33. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES
+ ALMANAC FOR 1890.
+ Paper cover (by mail, 14 cents additional) =.50=
+ Library Edition (by mail, 14 cents additional) =1.00=
+
+ No. 34. THE OPTICAL LANTERN.
+ Illustrated. By ANDREW PRINGLE. Paper covers, =$1.00=.
+ Cloth bound =1.50=
+
+ No. 35. LANTERN SLIDES BY PHOTOGRAPHIC METHODS.
+ By ANDREW PRINGLE. Paper covers =75= cents. Cloth bound =1.25=
+
+ No. 36. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES
+ ALMANAC FOR 1891.
+ Paper covers (by mail, 15 cents additional) =.50=
+ Library Edition (by mail, 15 cents additional) =1.00=
+ Cyclopaedic Index for 1891 Annual =.10=
+
+ No. 37. PHOTOGRAPHIC OPTICS.
+ A Text-Book for the Professional and Amateur. By W. K. BURTON.
+ Paper covers, =$1.00=. Library Edition =1.50=
+
+ No. 38. PHOTOGRAPHIC REPRODUCTION PROCESSES.
+ Illustrated. By P. C. DUCHOCHOIS. Paper covers, =$1.00=.
+ Cloth =1.50=
+
+ No. 39. EL INSTRUCTOR FOTOGRAFICO.
+ Paper covers, =$1.00=. Library Edition =1.50=
+
+ No. 40. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES
+ ALMANAC FOR 1892.
+ Out of print.
+
+ No. 41. THE CHEMISTRY OF PHOTOGRAPHY.
+ By W. JEROME HARRISON. Cloth bound =3.00=
+
+ No. 42. PICTURE MAKING IN THE STUDIO.
+ By H. P. ROBINSON. Paper covers, =50= cents. Cloth bound (Library
+ Edition) =1.00=
+
+ No. 43. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES
+ ALMANAC FOR 1893.
+ Edited by W. I. LINCOLN ADAMS.
+ Paper covers (postage extra, 15 cents) =.50=
+ Cloth bound (Library Edition) (postage extra, 15 cents) =1.00=
+
+ No. 44. THE LIGHTING IN THE PHOTOGRAPHIC STUDIO.
+ By P. C. DUCHOCHOIS. A new edition. Paper covers, =75= cents.
+ Cloth bound (Library Edition) =1.00=
+
+ No. 45. THE GRAMMAR OF PHOTO-ENGRAVING.
+ By H. D. FARQUHAR. Illustrated. The most complete text-book yet
+ published on this subject. Price, in paper covers, =$2.00=. Cloth
+ bound (Library Edition) =2.50=
+
+ No. 46. INDUSTRIAL PHOTOGRAPHY.
+ Illustrated. By P. C. DUCHOCHOIS. Being a description of the
+ various processes of producing Indestructible Photographic Images
+ on Glass, Porcelain, Metal, and many other substances. Paper
+ covers, =50= cents. Cloth bound =1.00=
+
+ No. 47. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES
+ ALMANAC FOR 1894.
+ Edited by W. I. LINCOLN ADAMS.
+ Paper covers (postage extra, 15 cents) =.50=
+ Cloth bound (Library Edition) (postage extra, 15 cents) =1.00=
+
+ No. 48. ARISTOTYPES AND HOW TO MAKE THEM.
+ Giving a complete description of the manufacture and treatment of
+ Gelatino and Collodio-Chloride Papers. By WALTER E. WOODBURY.
+ Illustrated. Paper covers, =$1.50=. Library Edition =2.00=
+
+ No. 49. THE ENCYCLOPAEDIC DICTIONARY OF PHOTOGRAPHY.
+ Containing over 2,000 references and about 400 illustrations. By
+ WALTER E. WOODBURY. In press.
+
+ No. 50. THE AMERICAN ANNUAL OF PHOTOGRAPHY AND PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES
+ ALMANAC FOR 1895.
+ With over 200 illustrations In paper covers. Postage extra =50=
+ Cloth bound. (Library Edition.) Postage 15 cents extra =1.00=
+
+ No. 51. THE PHOTO-GRAVURE PROCESS.
+ By =Henry R. Blaney=. A very complete and practical book, written
+ by an Expert. In paper covers, =50= cents. Cloth bound (Library
+ edition). =1.00=
+
+ For sale by all dealers in Photographic goods, booksellers,
+ and sent, post-paid, on receipt of price, by the publishers,
+
+ THE SCOVILL & ADAMS COMPANY OF NEW YORK,
+ SEND FOR BOOK CATALOGUE. 423 BROOME STREET.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ A Selected List of Books
+ FROM THE SCOVILL & ADAMS CO.'S BOOK CATALOGUE.
+
+ Price per Copy.
+ Amateur Photography.
+ A Practical Guide for the Beginner. By W. I. LINCOLN ADAMS.
+ Illustrated. Paper covers, =50c.=; cloth bound =$1.00=
+
+ Lantern Slides and How to Make Them.
+ By A. R. DRESSER. A new book, very complete and practical =.25=
+
+ Photography at Night.
+ By P. C. DUCHOCHOIS. Illustrated. 108 pp. Paper covers =1.00=
+
+ Bromide Paper and How to Use It.
+ Written by an Expert, with a specimen Bromide illustration =.25=
+
+ The Knack.
+ Written expressly to help the beginner in perplexity, reduced
+ to =.25=
+
+ Photographic Lenses; Their Choice and Use.
+ By J. H. DALLMEYER. A special edition, edited for American
+ photographers. In paper covers =.25=
+
+ The Chemistry of Photography.
+ By Prof. RAPHAEL MELDOLA =2.00=
+
+ The Photographic Image.
+ By P. C. DUCHOCHOIS. A Theoretical and Practical Treatise on
+ Development. Paper covers =1.50=
+ Cloth bound =2.00=
+
+ The Ferrotyper's Guide.
+ For the ferrotyper, this is the only standard work. Seventh
+ thousand =.75=
+
+ The Photographic Studios of Europe.
+ By H. BADEN PRITCHARD, F.C.S. Cloth bound, =$1.00=; paper
+ covers =.50=
+
+ Art of Making Portraits in Crayon on Solar Enlargements.
+ (Third edition.) By E. LONG =1.00=
+
+ History and Hand-Book of Photography.
+ With seventy illustrations. Cloth bound, reduced to =.50=
+
+ Crayon Portraiture.
+ Complete instructions for making Crayon Portraits on Crayon Paper
+ and on Platinum, Silver and Bromide Enlargements; also directions
+ for the use of Transparent Liquid Water Colors, and for making
+ French Crystals. By J. A. BARHYDT. A new edition. Paper covers,
+ =50c.=; cloth bound =1.00=
+
+ Art Recreations.
+ Ladies' popular guide in home decorative work, with a
+ chapter on photography. Edited by MARION KEMBLE =1.00=
+
+ American Carbon Manual.
+ For those who want to try the carbon printing process, this
+ work gives the most detailed information. Cloth bound.
+ Reduced to =.50=
+
+ Manual de Fotografia.
+ By AUGUSTUS LE PLONGEON. (Hand-book for Spanish
+ Photographers.) =1.00=
+
+ Secrets of the Dark Chamber.
+ By D. D. T. DAVIE =.50=
+
+ The Photographer's Book of Practical Formulas.
+ Compiled by Dr. W. D. HOLMES. Ph.D., and E. P. GRISWOLD.
+ Paper covers, reduced from =75c.= to =30c.=; cloth bound,
+ reduced from =$1.50= to =.60=
+
+ American Hand-Book of the Daguerrotype.
+ By S. D. HUMPHREY. (Fifth edition.) This book contains
+ the various processes employed in taking heliographic
+ impressions =.25=
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ AN ANNOUNCEMENT!
+
+ We have made arrangements with the NEW YORK PHOTOGRAVURE COMPANY by
+ which we are enabled to offer a series of magnificent Photogravures
+ at a very low price.
+
+ The first is that which has been already published and described by
+ us, being the "COURT OF HONOR," at the World's Fair. The companion
+ to this is in preparation, and will shortly be ready. It represents
+ a view of the "ADMINISTRATION BUILDING AND COURT OF HONOR," looking
+ up from the Peristyle. These two pictures form a magnificent
+ souvenir of the World's Fair, and imperishable ones, which have not
+ been approached in artistic or technical excellence. Each measures
+ about 18 x 22 inches, and they are printed in the best style, on
+ paper 24 x 32 inches.
+
+ The next two pictures are photogravures from negatives made by Mr.
+ JOHN E. DUMONT, of Rochester, and form admirable companion pictures.
+ Their titles are, "NO DOUBT," and "IN DOUBT," and represent, in one
+ case, a monk with a winning hand of cards, and having no doubt what
+ his play is to be. In the other, a monk holding a hand of cards
+ which evidently is a losing one, and, as evidently, he is in doubt
+ as to what to play.
+
+ The story of these pictures is admirably told, and with all the well
+ known skill of Mr. DUMONT.
+
+ The next in the series is a "LANDSCAPE WITH SHEEP," by Mr. ROBERT S.
+ REDFIELD, of Philadelphia, and can well pass for a reproduction of a
+ painting by VERBECK HOVEN, not that it is in any sense a copy of any
+ picture, being entirely original, but in sentiment and feeling
+ equaling the best and most artistic work of the painter. As a
+ companion to this, "A STORM AT BRIGHTON" is published. This was one
+ of the prize pictures at the recent exhibition of the joint
+ Societies of Amateur Photographers of Boston, Philadelphia and New
+ York. It is exceedingly effective as a study of cloud and motion of
+ water, and forms an admirably suggestive study for artists. It is
+ from a negative by Mr. ERNEST EDWARDS, President of the New York
+ Photogravure Company.
+
+ The well-known picture of "Flirtation" has also been engraved for
+ this series, and will be very popular. This picture (it will be
+ remembered) appeared in the American "Annual of Photography" for
+ 1892.
+
+ With the exception of the two first, all these pictures measure
+ about 16 x 12 inches for size of work, and are printed on etching
+ paper, 22 x 28 inches.
+
+ The uniform price of all is $2.00 each. For sale by all dealers.
+
+ Other subjects will follow, from time to time.
+
+ These Photogravures will be sent, post-paid, by mail,
+ carefully packed, on receipt of price.
+
+ THE SCOVILL & ADAMS COMPANY.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ Twelve: Photographic: Studies.
+
+ THE THIRD EDITION.
+
+ A Collection of Photogravures from the Best Representative
+ Photographic Negatives by Leading Photographic Artists.
+
+ COMPILED BY W. I. LINCOLN ADAMS.
+
+ THE COLLECTION INCLUDES
+
+ "Dawn and Sunset," H. P. Robinson.
+ "Childhood," H. McMichael.
+ "As Age Steals On," J. F. Ryder.
+ "A Portrait Study," B. J. Falk.
+ "Solid Comfort," John E. Dumont.
+ "Ophelia," H. P. Robinson.
+ "No Barrier," F. A. Jackson.
+ "El Capitan," W. H. Jackson.
+ "Still Waters," J. J. Montgomery.
+ "Surf," James F. Cowee
+ "A Horse Race," George Barker.
+ "Hi, Mister, may we have some Apples?" Geo. B. Wood.
+
+ Printed on Japan Paper, Mounted on Boards. Size, 11 x 14, in
+ ornamental Portfolio and a Box. Price, $3.00.
+
+ Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price, by
+ The Scovill & Adams Company.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ Artistic Landscapes
+ FROM NATURE.
+
+ Representing The Four Seasons.
+
+ These plates were made from photographs taken direct from nature.
+ They have been most beautifully reproduced by the highest grade
+ (copper-plate) process of the New York Photogravure Company. The
+ plates measure 6 x 8 inches, but are printed on extra heavy plate
+ paper 11 x 14 inches in size. Each picture is printed in a tint
+ especially appropriate for the season which it represents, and the
+ entire set of photogravures are in every way =worthy of framing=.
+
+ The negatives were photographed from nature by Mr. W. I. LINCOLN
+ ADAMS, and they have been _enthusiastically praised wherever shown_.
+
+ What GEORGE INNESS, America's greatest landscape painter, says of
+ these photogravures:
+
+ "They are very charming, and should prove extremely useful in the
+ development of the landscape art of our country."
+
+ They are sold singly or in sets.
+
+ Price, per copy $0.50
+ The Set of Four 1.50
+
+ Sent, post-paid, to any address, on receipt of price, by
+ The Montclair Photogravure Publishing Company,
+ MONTCLAIR, N. J.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ THEODORE METCALF CO.
+
+ Chemicals
+ Fine, Rare and Crude, of every description.
+
+ From the many years we have dealt in this class of supplies, we claim
+ to be leaders in this branch of the drug trade, and by constantly
+ replenishing and increasing our stock, and at once procuring or
+ manufacturing all new chemical products, we are able to do full
+ justice to all orders.
+
+ : Pure Chemicals :
+ FOR PHOTOGRAPHIC AND PROCESS WORK.
+
+ Bromide of Potassium.
+ Bichromates.
+ Ammonium, Potassium and Sodium.
+ Powdered Dragon Blood, Light Colored and Dark.
+ Metcalf Powdered Bitumen of Judea.
+
+ :: ALSO ::
+
+ Syrian Asphaltum.
+ Benzole, Chemically Pure,
+
+ By Can or Barrel.
+
+ Etc., Etc., Etc.
+
+ Boston, U. S. A.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ The Grammar of Photo-Engraving.
+
+ By H. D. FARQUHAR.
+
+ (Number Forty-five of the Scovill Photographic Series.)
+
+ CONTAINING INSTRUCTION IN
+
+ Drawing, Chemistry and Optics, as applied to Photo-Engraving.
+
+ AND A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE ART OF
+
+ HALF-TONE, ZINC ETCHING, SWELLED GELATINE, LITHOTYPE AND
+ CHALK PLATE ENGRAVING, AS PRACTICED IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+ ILLUSTRATED.
+
+ The object of this book is to present to the constantly increasing
+ number of persons seeking after practical knowledge in the art of
+ process engraving, a comprehensive and totally reliable text-book.
+ The book has been written with a view to instruct the amateur as
+ well as the professional, and the writer has always had in mind the
+ beginner, counting no detail too trivial to be fully described.
+
+ It has been written for the most part in the leisure hours, after
+ practical service during the day in a photo-engraving establishment,
+ so that the instruction goes directly from the shop to the pupil. It
+ has been the author's hope, in writing this book, to so carefully
+ describe every branch of work connected with the subject, that the
+ beginner, who knows absolutely nothing about it, may become a
+ practical photo-engraver from a careful reading of the work.
+
+ CONTENTS:
+
+ Chapter I.--Drawings for Photographic Reproduction. The Materials
+ Required.
+
+ Chapter II.--Chemicals used in Photo-Engraving.
+
+ Chapter III.--Apparatus and the Workshop.
+
+ Chapter IV.--Photographic Processes as Employed in
+ Photo-Engravings. Preparation of the Chemicals.
+
+ Chapter V.--Causes of Failure. Remedies.
+
+ Chapter VI.--The Half-Tone Process. Screen Plates.
+
+ Chapter VII.--Zinc Etching. Preparation of Chemicals Used in Zinc
+ Etching.
+
+ Chapter VIII.--Etching in Half-Tone.
+
+ Chapter IX.--Blocking and Finishing. Tools and Materials.
+
+ Chapter X.--Swelled Gelatine Process of Photo-Engraving.
+
+ Chapter XI.--Lithotype Engraving for Color Work.
+
+ Chapter XII.--Photographing on Wood and Other Processes.
+
+ Price, in paper covers $2.00
+ " cloth bound (Library Edition) 2.50
+
+ For sale by all dealers in Photographic Materials, and sent,
+ post-paid, on receipt of price, by the publishers,
+
+ THE SCOVILL & ADAMS COMPANY,
+ 423 Broome Street, New York City.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+ [Illustration: A ROADSIDE COTTAGE IN THE CATSKILLS
+ E. EDWARDS PHOTO. N.Y PHOTOGRAVURE CO.]
+
+
+
+
+ PHOTOGRAVURE.
+
+
+ BY
+ HENRY R. BLANEY.
+
+
+ _With Introduction and Additions by the Editor._
+
+
+ NEW YORK:
+ THE SCOVILL & ADAMS COMPANY.
+ 1895.
+
+
+
+ [Illustration]
+
+ Copyright, 1895.
+ THE SCOVILL & ADAMS COMPANY.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+ PAGE
+ INTRODUCTION BY THE EDITOR.--Early History of Photogravure--
+ Woodbury's Process--Other Methods, 5
+
+ CHAPTER I.--The Negative.--Quality best Suitable.--Necessity
+ for Reversing.--Methods of Obtaining Reversals.--The Powder
+ Process, 9
+
+ CHAPTER II.--The Transparency.--The Carbon Process.--Cutting
+ up the Tissue.--Sensitizing.--Drying.--Exposing.--Continuing
+ Action of Light.--Development.--Carbutt's Transparency
+ Plates, 15
+
+ CHAPTER III.--The Carbon Tissue.--Sensitizing and Exposing.--
+ The Actinometer, 22
+
+ CHAPTER IV.--Cleaning and Graining of the Copper Plate Plate--
+ Grade of Copper Necessary.--Where and How to Buy it, 25
+
+ CHAPTER V.--Development of Negative Resist on the Copper
+ Plate.--Preparation for Biting with Acid through the
+ Gelatine, 29
+
+ CHAPTER VI.--The Acid Baths.--How to Make Them and Method
+ of Biting through the Gelatine, 32
+
+ CHAPTER VII.--Cleaning and Polishing the Plate, with Tools
+ Necessary for Retouching, 37
+
+ CHAPTER VIII.--Printing from the Plate.--Steel Facing, 39
+
+ CHAPTER IX.--Materials Necessary for Photogravure--List of
+ Firms Supplying Them, 41
+
+ CHAPTER X.--Books and Articles on Photogravure, 1888-1893, 44
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+INTRODUCTION.
+
+
+About the year 1820 Nicephore Niepce made the discovery that bitumen,
+under certain conditions, was sensitive to light. He dissolved it in oil
+of lavender, and spread a thin layer of the solution thus obtained upon
+stone. This he exposed under a drawing (making the paper transparent by
+waxing), and after sufficient exposure, oil of lavender was poured on.
+Those portions of the bitumen which had been exposed to the action of
+the light had become insoluble, and so remained while the lines which
+had been protected by the drawing were dissolved away. By treating the
+stone with an acid these lines were bitten or eroded, and could be
+printed from. Niepce afterward employed metal plates instead of the
+stone.
+
+Here we have the foundation for a number of printing processes of the
+present day, including photogravure.
+
+For many years, however, progress in processes for intaglio printing was
+very slow. In 1852 Talbot introduced a process termed photoglyphy, and
+in 1854 Paul Pretsch, of Vienna, patented a process which he termed
+photogalvanography. In 1870 the late Walter B. Woodbury, inventor of
+the Woodburytype process, suggested to M. Rousselon, of M. M. Goupil &
+Co.,[A] a process which he had discovered, and which he describes[B]
+as follows:
+
+"The method, as perhaps many of your readers know, is based on the fact
+that some pigments used in carbon printing have an unpleasant habit of
+granulating when mixed with gelatine and bichromate, destructive to
+their use in carbon printing and Woodburytype, but bearing the essence
+of success in an engraving process where grain is necessary. The origin
+of this method was simply owing to my getting some bad reliefs, in which
+this effect was first noticed. Out of this arose the photo-engraving
+process which, as I said before, is now claimed as the invention of a
+Frenchman. But I am digressing.
+
+"This relief, possessing a suitable grain, could, by hydraulic pressure,
+be made to transfer its minutest details to metal without any loss to
+fineness, so giving a plate possessing all the properties of a
+mezzotint. The methods hitherto used of electrotyping would have proved
+useless, as all detail would have been lost. The same thing applies to
+the new method I am now about to bring before your readers. The latter
+process of getting the grain transferred to a hard metal remains the
+same; but the novelty is in the method of producing the grained plate.
+To those who have practiced the process of enameling, as used by Geymet
+and Alker, and others, my description will be better understood.
+
+"I first coat a thin, polished steel plate (zinc will answer) with a
+very thin coating of gum, glucose, and bichromate as used for enameling.
+This I dry rapidly, and, while still warm and desiccated, expose under a
+glass positive. On removal from the frame after exposure the plate is
+made to take up a slight amount of moisture by breathing on it.
+
+"During this stage I brush or dust over it any hard powder, such as
+emery, powdered glass, etc, but these I keep of different degrees of
+fineness or coarseness. No. 1, is of a coarse quality, and is used
+first; No. 2 is finer; and No. 3 is of the finest grain obtainable.
+These are obtained by passing through muslin of different degrees of
+fineness. Having in the first stage of moisture used the No. 1, or
+coarsest, powder, after a time No. 2 is dusted over and adheres to the
+middle tints, while the very finest tones, which have almost lost their
+sticky qualities by the exposure to light, are treated to No. 3.
+
+"Now we possess a granular picture having all the true qualities
+required in a photo-engraved plate, or, rather, such as will give a
+reverse in metal having these qualities. The steel or zinc plate is then
+to be exposed to light to completely harden the mixture all over, and is
+then treated exactly as in my other engraving process; that is, pressed
+into soft metal by hydraulic pressure, electrotyped, and then the
+surface is aciercised or coated with steel. The dark parts are thus
+represented by a coarse grain, the middle tints by a medium grain, and
+the finest shades by the most infinitesimal particles, thus meeting all
+requirements necessary to a successful photo engraving process."
+
+This process was taken up by a Frenchman and claimed by him as his own
+invention. The chief difficulty with it was that the plates before being
+perfect require the work of a skillful engraver, sometimes for weeks.
+They were therefore very costly, six dollars per square inch being
+charged for the making of the plate alone.
+
+Klic's process, 1886, was the next important improvement in photogravure
+or intaglio printing, and since then many other processes and
+improvements have been introduced by Obernetter, Waterhouse, Colls,
+Zuccato, Sawyer and others.
+
+In the following chapters Mr. H. R. Blaney gives a working description
+of the process as practiced to-day by many of the leading firms in this
+and other countries. This originally appeared in the columns of THE
+PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES, but I have made many additions that I have imagined
+may be of value to the student. A dividing line will be found between
+Mr. Blaney's writings and my own additions.
+
+ THE EDITOR.
+
+ [A] Now Boussod, Valadon et Cie.
+
+ [B] _British Journal Almanac_, 1874.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+THE NEGATIVE.
+
+
+Any negative may be used for photogravure, that is, taken from nature,
+or from a painting or engraving, provided it is reversed, and, in the
+case of paintings, should, in addition, be on an orthochromatic plate.
+The negative should be soft and brilliant, well exposed, and not hard or
+under-exposed. A reversed negative is always necessary if the print from
+the copper plate is required to be similar in regard to right and left,
+or if no other means are to be taken, to reverse the image upon the
+copper plate. Professionals use stripping plates especially made for
+this purpose for small work, or the reversed negative may be made in the
+copying camera. A fairly good reversed negative can be made by contact
+in the printing frame from an albumen print from the original negative,
+the print made transparent with white wax by being placed on a piece of
+warm, clean metal and the wax rubbed over the face. To have the negative
+reversed, the print should first be placed, face out, against the glass
+of the printing frame, with its back against the sensitive surface of
+the transparency plate, the back closed in and exposed to a large lamp
+for about five seconds. Every care must be taken that you use the best
+of negatives, carefully retouched if necessary, as the professional
+photographic etchers have informed me that (from their standpoint) the
+success of the whole process depends on the quality of the original
+negative and the care taken in artistic retouching.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+It will often happen in commercial photogravure work that plates have to
+be made from all kinds of original negatives. In cases where these are
+flat from over-exposure it is well to make a carbon transparency;
+intensifying the image with a strong solution of permanganate of potash,
+and from this make a fresh negative upon a slow or Carbutt transparency
+plate.
+
+Mr. Horace Wilmer says: "The class of negative most suitable is such as
+gives a good result by any of the printing processes. A bright sparkling
+negative will always give a good plate, but I do not find that any
+satisfactory results can be got from a soft flat negative. The negative
+should be as perfect as possible. It is absolutely useless to work from
+a faulty negative. Contrasts on it may be increased by retouching. Such
+contrasts are desirable because the tendency of the etching is to reduce
+them somewhat."
+
+Perhaps the simplest way of obtaining a reversed negative is by placing
+the dry plate in the slide film inside and exposing through the glass,
+of course after allowing in focusing for the thickness of the glass
+plate. With the wet-collodion process, usually the method employed by
+large photomechanical printers, this method can be used because it is
+a simple matter to carefully examine the glass plate to be employed,
+but it will be obvious that with the ordinary dry plate all the
+imperfections of the glass, such as dirt, scratches, air-bubbles, etc.,
+will be clearly reproduced in the image.
+
+Another method largely employed to produce reversed negatives direct, is
+by means of a mirror or prism placed either before or behind the lens.
+The prism is the more convenient, but if large sizes are used it becomes
+a costly piece of apparatus. The mirror, which should be a plane of
+glass silvered on its surface, is a less expensive affair. By either of
+these means the reversed negatives can be made direct without suffering
+the least in quality.
+
+With celluloid or other flexible films, printing can, of course, be done
+from either side. Practical men, however, say that, except with the
+very thinnest films, there is an undoubted loss of sharpness in the
+grain when these films are reversed and with some mechanical processes.
+
+Against this, however, it may be said that better contact can be
+obtained in printing than if the film were upon a piece of uneven glass,
+as is often the case, for by backing it with a piece of plate-glass
+perfect contact is ensured everywhere.
+
+We come now to the method of stripping the film from the glass. If the
+negative is made by the collodion process the matter is a simple one.
+The glass is treated with French chalk previous to collodionizing. After
+the negative is made and dried it is laid on a leveling stand and a
+solution of gelatine poured on it. When dry, it is readily stripped by
+running a knife all round. With ordinary dry-plates the method usually
+recommended is to immerse them in dilute hydrofluoric acid. The
+difficulty often experienced here is in the lateral expansion of the
+film. This will largely depend upon the plate, or rather the quality of
+the gelatine used. There are, however, two methods of securing the films
+to some medium unaffected by moisture, and so prevent expansion or
+distortion. The first is that recommended by Mr. A. Pumphrey and the
+second by Mr. H. J. Burton, modified descriptions of which are given in
+a recent number of _The British Journal of Photography_. If the negative
+is varnished this is removed. A thin film of gelatine is moistened in a
+dilute solution of hydrofluoric acid, one part of acid to sixty of
+water. This gelatine film is secured on paper by a coating of
+india-rubber.
+
+The action of the dilute acid is to soften the gelatine, making it very
+adhesive. It can, in this state, be readily attached to the negative by
+squeegeeing. The acid in the film passes through the negative, and
+releases it from the glass. It can then be lifted off and pinned to a
+flat surface to dry. The paper can afterward be stripped off, when dry,
+by moistening the back with a little benzole to dissolve the
+india-rubber. In this manner we get the stripped negative in exactly the
+same size as when on the glass, to which it can be restored at any time
+desired.
+
+Burton, in his method, employs collodion in place of paper as the
+support. The negative is first coated with a thick collodion, and this
+is allowed ten minutes or so to set. It is then immersed in plain water
+until the film loses all appearance of greasiness. A few drops of
+hydrofluoric acid are added to the water, and the dish gently rocked.
+The film will soon detach itself, when the plate should be at once
+rinsed. Another plate previously coated with gelatine, and dried, is
+placed in the dish, and the released film, after reversing, is floated
+upon it, the two removed together, and allowed to dry.
+
+So far we have only treated upon reverse negatives, either obtained at
+once or reversed afterward. It often happens, however, that we have an
+ordinary negative, which is required to be reversed. This negative may
+be a valuable one, and the risk involved in stripping it be too great.
+
+Another simple method of obtaining a reversed negative is by means of
+the powder process. Although this process is an old one, it appears to
+be but little known, for what reason we have never been able to define.
+It is by no means difficult, and by its means a negative can be obtained
+direct from a negative without the intermediate positive transparency.
+
+The principle of the process is this: An organic tacky substance is
+sensitized with potassium dichromate, and exposed under a reversed
+positive to the action of light. All those parts acted upon become hard,
+the stickiness disappearing according to the strength of the light
+action, while those parts protected by the darker parts of the positive
+retain their adhesiveness. If a colored powder be dusted over, it will
+be understood that it will adhere to the sticky parts only, forming a
+visible image, the same being a reproduction of the positive printed
+from. The process is very useful for the production of lantern slides
+and transparencies, or for the reproduction of negatives. Any of the
+following formulae may be employed for the manufacture of the organic
+substance:--
+
+
+SOLUTION A.
+
+ Gum arabic 25 grammes
+ Grape sugar 60 grammes
+ Purified honey 15 grammes
+ Alcohol, 40 deg 15 c.c.
+ Water 60 c.c.
+
+
+SOLUTION B.
+
+Saturated solution of ammonium dichromate.
+
+Two solutions to be mixed together before using in proportions 15 A,
+25 B, 50 water.
+
+
+WOODBURY'S FORMULA.
+
+ Gum arabic 60 grains
+ Glucose 45 grains
+ Glycerine 10 minims
+ Potassium dichromate 30 grains
+ Distilled water 2 ounces
+
+
+OBERNETTER PROCESS.
+
+ Dextrine 60 grains
+ White sugar 75 grains
+ Ammonium dichromate 30 grains
+ Glycerine 2 to 8 minims
+ Distilled water 3 ounces
+
+The gum is first dissolved and the remainder of the ingredients added.
+It may be necessary to warm the solution in a hot water bath to dissolve
+it. It is then filtered through flannel or clean muslin, and preserved
+for use in well-stoppered bottles. With this solution clear glass plates
+are coated and dried by a gentle heat over a small spirit lamp. The
+plate while still warm is exposed under a reversed positive[C] for from
+two to five minutes in sunlight, and from 10 to 20 minutes in diffused
+light. The image is then but slightly visible. On removing from the
+printing frame the plate is laid in the air (protected from light) for a
+few minutes to absorb a little moisture from it. The next process is the
+"dusting on." If the image is required to be black, fine Siberian
+graphite is spread over it with a soft flat brush. This will adhere to
+the parts unaffected by light, giving an image of the positive. Any
+colored fine powder maybe used, giving images in various colors. When
+fully developed the excess of powder is dusted off and the film coated
+with collodion. After this it is well washed to remove the unaltered gum
+and dichromate salt. The film may, if desired, be detached from the
+plate and used for enamels, ivory, wood, textile fabrics, opals, etc.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+ [C] Reversed as regards right and left.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+THE TRANSPARENCY.
+
+
+Regular transparency gelatine dry plates are the handiest for making
+positives, especially for amateurs, if one does not care if the subject
+is in reverse, or if one has a reversed negative to work from. There is
+a "special" carbon tissue, price $4.00 per roll of 2 x 12 feet, made by
+the Autotype Company, of London, England, with full instructions
+appended; by a system of double transfer, reversed negatives may be
+obtained with this tissue. The "special" tissue is only to be used for
+the transparency. A safe edge of black paper is required on the
+transparency, pasted up exactly to the edge of the picture, on the glass
+side; it comes, sold in strips, gummed, ready for use, about 1/4 inch
+wide; this is required, as the tissue used for the negative resist on
+the copper plate, which is printed from the transparency, must have a
+safe edge, shielded from the light, or it will not attach itself to the
+copper plate, the tissue coming inside half way. The screw pressure
+printing frame should have a piece of heavy felt for backing the
+transparency.
+
+The following instructions for making carbon transparencies will no
+doubt be found useful:
+
+The carbon tissue prepared for this process consists of paper coated
+with gelatine containing carbon, lamp-black, or other pigments.
+
+The Autotype Company, of London, manufacture a special "transparency"
+tissue.
+
+CUTTING UP THE TISSUE is performed by unrolling it gently upon a zinc
+cutting plate, cut square and true, with the inches marked at the bottom
+and right-hand side. By using a T square and observing the numbered
+inches marked on the plate, it will not be difficult to cut the tissue
+to any dimension. If the tissue is very curly and unmanageable it should
+be kept down with convenient weights. After cutting it up to the
+required sizes, which should be conveniently smaller than the dish to
+be used for sensitizing, it should be kept flat under a metal plate.
+
+SENSITIZING THE TISSUE is the next operation. This is performed in a
+solution of potassium dichromate rendered alkaline with ammonia. Tie
+over the mouth of a two-gallon jug a piece of muslin, to form a kind of
+bag, into which place fifteen ounces of potassium dichromate, then fill
+up the jug with water and allow it to stand until the dichromate is
+dissolved and the solution becomes cold. It is sometimes advisable to
+regulate the quantity of dichromate. In hot weather, or for very thin
+negatives, the proportion of water should be doubled, while for very
+hard negatives only half the quantity should be used. In very hot
+weather it is often advantageous to replace about 30 per cent. of the
+water with the same quantity of alcohol.
+
+The operation of sensitizing the tissue must be carried on in a room
+lighted by a window covered with a yellow blind. A flat dish of
+porcelain, glass, or _papier mache_, a squeegee, and a sheet of glass or
+zinc larger than the tissue, will be required.
+
+The solution is poured into the dish, and should be at least two inches
+deep. The tissue is then immersed in it, and the air-bells that form
+immediately brush away from both sides with a broad camel's-hair brush.
+The temperature of the bath should not be higher than 60 deg. Fahr.; and
+the time of immersion should be from three to five minutes. After the
+tissue has remained in the solution for the allotted time it is gently
+removed and laid face downward upon the glass or zinc plate, and the
+back squeegeed, removing all superfluous solution. The tissue is
+removed from the glass and laid over a sheet of cardboard, bent into the
+form of an arch, to dry.
+
+Another method (H. J. Burton's) of sensitizing carbon tissue is to lay
+it flat on a sheet of clean blotting paper, and sponge on the back a
+very strong sensitizing solution composed as follows:
+
+ Potassium dichromate 4 ounces
+ Liquid ammonia fort 1 ounce
+ Water 20 ounces
+
+First mix the ammonia with the water, then grind up and add the
+dichromate.
+
+DRYING THE TISSUE should be accomplished in a room perfectly free from
+the noxious fumes of other chemicals, and lighted only by non-actinic
+light. Tissues sensitized during the evening should be dry on the
+following morning. It should then be cut to the sizes required and kept
+flat in a pressure frame, or other similar contrivance.
+
+EXPOSING THE TISSUE.--The tissue can be exposed behind the negative in
+an ordinary printing frame, or in special frames having no joint in the
+back, as no image is visible. The negative must be furnished with a safe
+edge, made by painting an edge about one-eighth of an inch round the
+negative with black varnish, or by pasting on strips of red or black
+paper. Exposure must be judged by an actinometer. A very suitable
+instrument for timing the exposure of carbon tissue is Sawyer's
+actinometer. It consists of a rectangular tin box with a glass lid,
+bearing twelve tints graduated from slight discoloration to a degree of
+opacity, representing the extreme amount of deposit upon the lights of
+the densest negatives, each division of this screen of tints bearing a
+number in opaque pigments; and a roll of sensitive paper is placed in
+the box, and the end pulled forward so as to pass under the tints. When
+this arrangement is placed in the light, the silver paper commences to
+discolor underneath the graduated screen, beginning of course at the
+lightest, but the number on the tint being in an opaque pigment is
+preserved white, and serves to register the progress of printing; for
+if, when the lid is opened, the number one, for instance, shows clearly
+on a tinted ground, the instrument is said to have registered one tint;
+by that time the number two will have begun to make its appearance, and,
+if sufficient exposure be given, the light will print through the whole
+scale by successive steps, and show up the numbers, one to twelve. With
+an instrument of this kind it is evident that, by exposing alongside the
+carbon tissue and determining the number of tints required for the
+proper exposure of that negative, the same number of tints with the same
+negative will always prove right. A little practice will enable one to
+judge the number of tints required for every class of negative.
+
+It will be well to remark here that freshly sensitized tissue will
+produce inferior pictures to that used a day or two after; the pictures
+are not so hard, and there is less danger of the high-lights being
+washed away.
+
+CONTINUING ACTION OF LIGHT.--If the carbon tissue after exposure to the
+light, be kept in the dark for a little time the effect on the print
+will be precisely the same as if the exposure to light had been
+prolonged. This continuing action of light may often be utilized to
+advantage. Pictures known to be under-exposed will, if kept till
+morning, by that time have acquired the same force as if they had
+received the proper exposure.
+
+DEVELOPMENT consists simply in dissolving the gelatine unaffected by
+light, with hot water as the solvent.
+
+Immerse the exposed tissue in a bath containing cold water. It will
+first of all curl up, but afterward lay flat and limp. It is then placed
+in another bath containing cold water together with a sheet of glass
+which has previously been coated with a 5 per cent. solution of
+gelatine. Bring them together face to face, draw them out, and force
+into close contact with a large squeegee; then place between blotting
+paper for five or ten minutes. In squeegeeing, the tissue should be
+uppermost, and a sheet of American cloth laid over it to prevent the
+squeegee from damaging it.
+
+Development should not be attempted for at least twenty minutes, during
+which time the glass, with the tissue on it, should be placed between
+sheets of blotting paper, and kept under pressure to insure its
+adherence to the glass support. After that time it is placed in a dish,
+and water heated to a temperature of 100 deg. F. added. The colored
+pigment will at once commence to ooze out of the edges, and after a
+little time the paper originally holding the carbon film may be removed
+with the hand. Then, by gently leveling the picture with the hand, the
+superfluous gelatine will be washed away, and if the exposure has been
+correct a perfect image should remain. A certain amount of control can
+be kept over an autotype picture. An over-exposed print will show itself
+by insolubility of the gelatine, and the high light refusing to be
+washed clear. The temperature should be raised considerably, and hot
+water poured over with a jug. If this fails to reduce the intensity, add
+a little ammonia to the water as a last resource, though the better plan
+is to make another print, giving less exposure. Under-exposure results
+in over-solubility of the gelatine. The half-tones will be washed clean
+away. It is rarely an under-exposed print can be saved. All that can be
+done is to reduce the temperature of the water. Development should never
+be hurried; the slower it is the better the gradation of tone in the
+results.
+
+After development is complete the bichromate salt is discharged, and the
+image rendered perfectly insoluble by well washing in cold water and
+placing in a dish containing a 5 per cent. solution of potash alum,
+after which it is again washed and dried.
+
+Another method of making a transparency and one that involves less
+trouble is by means of the transparency plates which are now in the
+market. Of these we have tried Carbutt's with the greatest success. For
+these the following instructions are given:
+
+The requisites are, a deep printing-frame a size larger than the
+negative to be used, with a flat glass bottom clear and free from
+scratches (crystal plate is best), a dark-room Lantern, or other
+artificial light, and Keystone Gelatino-Albumen Plates. Transparencies
+can be made same size of negative by contact and exposure to artificial
+light, or enlarged or reduced in the camera by daylight, with equal
+perfection in result. To make transparencies by contact place one of the
+Keystone thin crystal glass transparency plates over the negative in
+printing-frame, lay piece of dark soft material over it, close down the
+back, and expose to the light of the lantern or to a gas flame or other
+artificial light, for 10 to 30 seconds, according to density of
+negative, at a distance of 20 inches from the flame. Use the following
+developer:
+
+
+EIKONOGEN AND HYDROCHINON DEVELOPER.
+
+A.
+
+ Metric Weight. Avoirdupois Weight.
+
+ 600 c.c.m Distilled Water 20 ounces
+ 120 grammes Sulphite of Soda Crystals 4 ounces
+ 22 grammes Eikonogen 330 grains
+ 101/2 grammes Hydrochinon 160 grains
+ 960 c.c.m Water to make up to 32 ounces
+
+B.
+
+ Metric Weight. Avoirdupois Weight.
+
+ 600 c.c.m Distilled Water 20 ounces
+ 60 grammes Carbonate of Potash 2 ounces
+ 60 grammes Carbonate Soda Crystals 2 ounces
+ 960 c.c.m Water to make up to 32 ounces
+
+For use take 1 ounce (30 c.c.) of A, 3/4 ounce (25 c.c.) of B, with 4
+ounces (120 c.c.) of water.
+
+More of A will increase density, more of B will increase detail and
+softness. Temperature of developer should not vary much below 65 deg.
+nor above 75 deg. The after treatment is same as with any other
+developer.
+
+Let the development continue until the blacks look quite strong, and
+detail showing in the high-lights; wash off developer, then immerse in
+
+
+CARBUTT'S NEW ACID FIXING AND CLEARING BATH.
+
+ 4 c.c.m Sulphuric Acid 1 drachm
+ 480 grammes Hyposulphite of Soda 16 ounces
+ 60 grammes Sulphite of Soda 2 ounces
+ 30 grammes [D]Chrome Alum 1 ounce
+ 1920 c.c.m Warm Water 64 ounces
+
+Dissolve the hyposulphite of soda in 48 ounces (1440 c.c.m.) of water,
+the sulphite of soda in 6 ounces (180 c.c.m.) of water; mix the
+sulphuric acid with two ounces (60 c.c.m.) of water, and pour slowly
+into the sulphite soda solution, and add to the hyposulphite; then
+dissolve the chrome alum in 8 ounces (240 c.c.m.) of water and add to
+the bulk of solution, and the bath is ready. This fixing bath will not
+discolor until after long usage, and both clears up the shadows of the
+negative and hardens the film at the same time.
+
+Let remain two or three minutes after transparency is cleared of all
+appearance of silver bromide. Then wash in running water for not less
+than half an hour to free from any trace of hypo solution. Swab the
+surface with wad of wet cotton, rinse, and place in rack to dry
+spontaneously. Then varnish with plain collodion.
+
+ [D] N. B.--During cold weather use only half the quantity
+ of Chrome Alum in above.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+THE CARBON TISSUE--(SENSITIZING AND EXPOSURE).
+
+
+The carbon tissue used as a resist, which is mounted on the copper
+plate, is made by the Autotype Company, London, England. No. 100
+Standard Brown is the right grade to use, though I have reached good
+results with No. 103. The No. 100 is a heavier grade than No. 103, and
+requires two or three minutes longer exposure than the latter. Use a
+deep printing frame with a screw pressure to secure absolute contact,
+which is known by iridescent markings appearing on the glass of the
+printing frame. A Johnson's actinometer is very useful to time the
+exposure. From 4 to 6 tints are necessary. Experience here is the only
+guide, as the light varies as well as the density of the negative and
+the sensitiveness of the tissue. If one does not have an actinometer, a
+slip of albumen paper may be used; as soon as the paper has reached the
+darkest point, which is then called one tint, extend it so that a fresh
+portion comes out to the light, and so on for the different tints. In
+September, for instance, the darkest tint is reached in about 3 to 4
+minutes; two tints and a half or 8 minutes in the shade at midday on a
+clear day in September is about right,--this is understood to be with
+medium negatives and No. 103 tissue sensitized within three days.
+
+You should over-expose rather than under-expose, allowance being made
+when the acid is used. Print deeply, so that, on development, the
+negative tissue on the copper plate shows all the detail clearly in the
+shadows. The tissue should not appear very dark on the plate. The copper
+should show up through the gelatine clearly and brightly. The thinner
+the negative tissue, the quicker the biting of the acid.
+
+
+SENSITIZING THE TISSUE.
+
+The carbon tissue comes only in rolls of 21/2 feet by 12 feet, price
+$3.00, not cut. It is not sold in a sensitive condition. Full
+instructions with each roll for sensitizing. Tap water will do, but I
+would suggest distilled water for making the sensitizing solution of
+bichromate of potassium.
+
+ Bichromate of potassium 1 ounce
+ Water 16 ounces
+ Alcohol 1/2 drachm
+ Ammonia 12 drops
+
+The best way to sensitize the tissue, is to place the tissue face up,
+keeping it flat so that the solution reaches all parts at once, removing
+all air bubbles, and rubbing in the solution with the fingers until
+pliant; the time of immersion is three minutes in winter, two minutes in
+summer. The hands should be washed directly after handling the solution,
+and care must be taken that there are no cuts on the fingers, as the
+solution is very harmful, but if due care is exercised and the hands
+well washed immediately with soap, little, if any, trouble will be
+experienced; use rubber finger tips as much as possible. Keep the
+temperature of the solution at 70 deg. both in summer and winter. Take a
+piece of glass free from scratches (an inch larger all round than the
+tissue); have the glass ready cleaned with ammonia and talcum powder of
+fine whiting, squeegee the sensitized carbon tissue directly from the
+solution on to the glass and place to dry at night in a light-tight box;
+it will be dry in the morning.
+
+The tissue is in the best condition for three days after sensitizing; it
+can be used up to seven days; it gradually increases in sensitiveness
+from day to day. After a week or ten days has elapsed, it is hard to
+manage and becomes unreliable. When the tissue is dry take a sharp knife
+and cut inside the edge, and strip off one corner. Fairly good results
+can be reached by simply drying over a curved piece of pulp board,
+which is tied with string on each end, but squeegeeing on glass gives a
+sharper result. The addition of ammonia and alcohol to the sensitizing
+solution makes it easier to strip the paper from the copper plate, after
+the carbon tissue is mounted on the plate, and enables one to develop
+the resist in the water at a lower temperature than without it, thus
+avoiding pits in the darker portions and white specks or bubbles in the
+lights, should the water reach too high a temperature.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+THE CLEANING AND GRAINING OF THE COPPER PLATE, AND GRADE OF COPPER
+NECESSARY, AND WHERE AND HOW TO BUY IT AT REASONABLE PRICES.
+
+
+The best copper is recognized by its rosy lustre. Pure copper only
+should be used. It can be purchased ready polished and beveled from
+several firms in New York. The best way, if large quantities of plates
+are required, is to buy the copper in the rough of one firm and have it
+polished by another, and bevel it yourself if necessary with a file and
+burnish it by hand, or the firm who polish it will do the beveling for
+you.
+
+The Scovill & Adams Co. supply copper-plates of the finest quality,
+ready polished, for photogravure work.
+
+Total cost by this method about one-third less than by purchasing ready
+made. It makes a copper plate 1/16 grade, 9 x 11, cost about $1.10.
+Order your copper 1/16 in. grade up to 10 x 12; larger sizes 1/8 in.
+grade. If you use 1/16 in. grade above this size, the plate is liable to
+buckle. Be sure the plate is free from pits and scratches and with a
+high polish. Have what the polishers and engravers call a rouge polish.
+If they do not supply it, rouge it yourself with powdered rouge and
+turpentine, using a ball of absorbent cotton over a large piece of
+smooth cork. A good way to buy rouge is in the stick; it is more
+economical. Rub the wet cotton on it and the right quantity is assured.
+Pits in the copper may be taken out by tapping upon the back with a nail
+set, using a small piece of polished steel to lay the face of the plate
+on, and localizing the spot with a pair of calipers. The part raised by
+the tapping, cut away with the scraper, then rub the spot with Scotch
+stone and water, then a piece of engraver's charcoal (cut to a pencil
+point), with machine oil; then burnish with the regular engraver's
+burnisher and sperm oil, finishing with rouge and refined turpentine.
+
+When the plate is well polished, make a strong solution of caustic
+potash (C.P.), which comes in sticks, as strong as possible, as long as
+it does not stain the copper. It should register about 40 deg. with an
+actinometer used to test silver solutions.
+
+Take a piece of absorbent cotton and clean the copper with potash (by
+the way, use finger tips); rinse under tap for five minutes, then a
+fresh piece of cotton with alcohol at 95 per cent., rinse again with
+water, and place in warm water for final rinsing; stand up on corner, or
+place in drying frame usually used for negatives; allow to drain. Should
+any stains appear, it must be recleaned and all the operations repeated
+until it drains off without streaks, for these streaks and spots of
+stain are caused by the caustic potassa, which is difficult to remove.
+It is as hard to get rid of from the copper as hyposulphite is from a
+negative. These streaks retard the acid on the copper wherever they
+appear, and cause defects in the recording of the original tones of the
+negative.
+
+The plate is then ready for graining.
+
+
+II.--GRAINING THE COPPER PLATE.
+
+A grain is required on the copper plate so that the tones will be
+reproduced, as copper has not a sufficient grain of its own. The grain
+is given to the copper plate by dusting it with powdered Syrian
+asphaltum or resin. Have a paste-board box made 18 inches high, 12
+inches wide and 8 inches deep, perfectly air-tight, with a small door
+running the whole length on the widest side, an inch or two from the
+bottom. Have the inside of the box perfectly smooth; place within the
+box 4 ounces finely powdered Syrian asphaltum (sold by Messrs. Theodore
+Metcalf & Co., Tremont Street, Boston, Mass.); it is difficult to find
+in New York. Shake the box vigorously, place on table, insert a piece of
+wood an inch high made in shape of cross (or open square, or have
+netting of wire raised an inch from the bottom of the box); the copper
+plate, previously cleaned, is at once placed face up upon it. Instead of
+shaking the box it can be arranged upon supports (see fig. 1), and
+revolved.
+
+[Illustration: FIG. 1.]
+
+Close the door instantly, and let the plate remain about two minutes;
+carefully remove the plate and place it on a Florence oil lamp, holding
+the plate with a hand vise, watch carefully until the powder disappears
+from the surface and the plate slightly smokes, then stand aside to
+cool. Do not keep the plate too long on the heater, or the particles of
+dust will run together, forming an impenetrable varnish over the plate.
+This part of the process is not difficult, but requires practice.
+Preserve each atom of dust as much as possible, examine with magnifying
+glass and, when cool, test with finger nail; if it rubs off easily, it
+has not been heated enough; then the plate must be re-cleaned and again
+powdered. To get a good all-round working grain, suitable for medium
+subjects, the plate should be placed at once in the box after shaking;
+thus the coarser particles that fall first, and the finer, which
+gradually settle, will combine after two or three minutes.
+
+Many combinations will be suggested to the student by practice to suit
+the subject; for instance, waiting for two minutes and then inserting
+the plate, gives a fine grain for delicate subjects. Powdered dragon's
+blood (resin) in combination with asphaltum makes a beautiful grain; a
+separate box may be used for the dragon's blood; the asphaltum first
+dusted on the plate, then inserted in the dragon's blood box for twenty
+or thirty seconds, then melted together. The dragon's blood melts first,
+then the asphaltum.
+
+The air brush is also used by professionals; it throws a resinous spirit
+varnish, coarse or fine, as required.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+DEVELOPMENT OF NEGATIVE RESIST ON THE COPPER PLATE, AND PREPARATION FOR
+BITING WITH ACID THROUGH THE GELATINE.
+
+
+Have a wooden box made 24 inches long, by 12 inches high, 12 inches
+wide, with door 6 inches high on side, fastened with hinges, top and
+bottom of box open; cover top with sheet zinc. Place inside Florence oil
+lamp; the door is valuable to regulate the heat. On top of box place
+deep porcelain tray, 11 x 14, fill with water half full; in the water
+place two pieces of plate glass 1/2 inch high and 4 inches long, on
+which to place copper to keep it from the bottom of the tray. Slide the
+copper plate into the water, removing all air bubbles, keeping the
+fingers off the surface of the plate. Take the sensitized and exposed
+tissue and place face down in the cold water (65 deg.) sliding it
+gradually in at further end of the paper so as to avoid air bubbles; the
+instant the paper curls backward, place it over the copper plate and
+remove it quickly from the water. This has to be done with celerity or
+it will be found difficult to mount the tissue with the squeegee on the
+copper, and also it should be exactly placed with reference to the top
+and sides of the copper; all this, of course, to be done under water,
+never allow it to slip up out of it. Place plate on table and squeegee
+into place, stroking firmly from the centre, each way. Place face down
+on clean blotting paper, under heavy weight for fifteen minutes. While
+plate is under pressure (which is necessary to enable the gelatine to
+expand and attach itself to the plate), start the lamp gradually, and by
+the time the paper is ready the water should register on the thermometer
+75 deg. Slide the plate under water removing air bubbles as they
+appear, with a ball of absorbent cotton; when the heat of the water
+reaches 90 deg. Fahr., the gelatine commences to ooze from all around
+the edges of the paper, and after the plate has remained in the water
+about ten minutes after the showing up of the gelatine (at the
+temperature from 90 to 95 deg.), take a pin and carefully raise the
+paper at the corner, gradually pulling away the paper toward the
+opposite corner, keeping the hand close to the water; should the
+gelatine which adheres to the plate appear to lift, wait a few minutes
+longer and start another corner. After the paper is stripped from the
+plate, gently develop the negative resist with a piece of fresh
+absorbent cotton, delicately rubbing the surface, edges first, and lave
+the plate up and down in the water, keeping the temperature steadily at
+90 to 95 deg., by raising or lowering the lamp. (Should the paper be
+under-exposed and appear very black on the copper, develop at 100 to 110
+deg., not over. If over-exposed it will appear very thin, and the heat
+of the water must not go over 90 deg.; it will strip at 88 to 90 deg.)
+Then the negative image gradually appears, the darks first, which are of
+course the brightest portions; when all detail appears in the shadows
+and the negative stands out clear and bright, take it out of the
+dark-room (which is lighted with an ordinary lamp), and gently wash
+under the tap with clean and cold water at 65 to 70 deg.
+
+Dry the resist with alcohol, pouring it over the plate from one end,
+starting with half alcohol and half water, gradually adding more alcohol
+and eliminating the water, until a final flooding with absolute alcohol
+is reached; use fresh solutions of alcohol and water for each copper;
+don't use old alcohol for anything except cleaning the copper at the
+end, and for removing the spirit varnish. Stand up to dry against the
+wall, face out, and standing square on the bottom of the plate, in the
+same position as you flooded it with alcohol; it will be dry in twenty
+minutes if rightly flooded. The bare copper should now be protected by a
+strong varnish in alcohol (it must flow freely off the brush); a good
+varnish for this purpose, and the best I know of, is an etcher's
+asphaltum stopping-out varnish, sold by Messrs. Devoe & Co., New York;
+price 50 cents per bottle. Should it get thick as you come to the bottom
+of the bottle, add a little spirits of lavender until it flows again
+freely. Take an architect's ruling pen and carefully rule a line with
+the varnish up to the edge of the picture, making it exactly true with
+the sides of the plate and the space on each side of the work the same
+with the top, the bottom space slightly larger; make sure that it
+slightly comes inside the picture. Keep the rule away from the surface
+of the gelatine, as it is very delicate. Then cover all the rest of the
+copper, protecting the bare parts and bevel, and bringing the varnish up
+to the line. Allow to dry hard; about twenty minutes will do. Form a
+wall about the resist, with walling wax, about an inch high; make a lip
+at one corner, the further left hand one, for instance; see that there
+are no leaks. There are several grades of wax, but Liedel & Co.'s is the
+best; when ordering you should give the name as modeling wax; gray is a
+good color. Pans can be used made of tin and varnished, or porcelain
+trays, protecting the back and edges of the plate with varnish, but I
+find the wax very helpful, especially on large plates.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+THE ACID BATHS.--HOW TO MAKE THEM AND METHOD OF BITING THROUGH THE
+GELATINE.
+
+
+Perchloride of iron C.P. is the acid generally used for this purpose; it
+is a still acid, and if the room is well ventilated no harm to health
+results, but care must be taken to air the baths after making to get rid
+of the surplus chlorine.
+
+Four baths are used, each of different strengths, the strongest is used
+first, the weakest last. I quote from the catalogue of the Boston Art
+Museum, of the exhibition illustrating the technical methods of the
+Reproductive Arts and Photo-Mechanical Processes, held January 8, 1892:
+"Photo-aquatint (photogravure) for the production of half-tone intaglio
+plates from photographs from nature, paintings, etc. A dry aquatint
+ground is laid on a metal plate, and over this is mounted a gelatine
+negative film, made by the pigment printing process. To obtain this
+negative film a _reversed_ positive on glass has first to be made. The
+reason why this positive must be reversed will become clear when the
+nature of the manipulations in the pigment printing process, which
+involves the turning of the film, are considered. The film mounted on
+the plate is a washout relief, thickest in those parts which are to show
+white in the impressions from the plate, and gradually growing thinner
+toward the darkest parts, where it is thinnest. The film acts as a
+'resist' to the mordant, allowing it to pass freely in the thinnest
+parts, and less freely as it increases in thickness. If, however, the
+film were mounted on the bare plate, and the biting then proceeded with,
+the result would be of no practical use, as the plate would present
+merely shallow hollows, incapable of holding the ink, and which would
+therefore be wiped out in the attempt to clean the surface of the plate.
+This is, however, prevented by the aquatint ground, which allows the
+mordant to circulate only in the channels around the resinous particles
+of which it consists, and thus produces a grain precisely as in ordinary
+aquatinting. The mordant used in perchloride of iron, which is a 'still
+mordant,' _i.e._, one which does not evolve bubbles of gas. An
+effervescent mordant cannot be used as the bubbles rising under the film
+would tear it up. In biting, successive baths of varying strength are
+made.
+
+"A strong solution of perchloride of iron penetrates only the thinner
+parts of the film, whereas a weaker acts also through the thicker parts.
+The biting, therefore, begins with a strong solution, which acts only in
+the darkest parts, and followed up with weaker and weaker solutions,
+which continue the biting in the darks and at the same time carry it on
+gradually toward the lights. If necessary, the plate is worked over with
+the burnisher to brighten the lights, and with roulettes, etc., to
+strengthen the darks."
+
+Purchase nine (9) pounds of perchloride of iron in crystals (45 cents
+per pound), take a wide-mouthed gallon jar, place within half a gallon
+of distilled water, add the iron until it tests 30 deg. by a Beaume
+hydrometer, pour off enough to fill a one-litre glass stoppered bottle,
+after filtering through absorbent cotton. Keep adding the iron to the
+jar until the strength of each bath is reached. To the strongest
+solution add half a drachm of C. P. muriatic acid, and to the weakest
+half a drachm C. P. nitric acid; the nitric acid is added so that in the
+last biting a good final nip is given to the copper.
+
+I here give my own formula, with those recommended by others.
+
+The four (4) baths should be well aired for a day (in broad pans) in the
+open air before filtering.
+
+
+FORMULA FOR ACID BATHS.
+
+(H. R. BLANEY.)
+
+ No. 1 should register to Beaume's scale 42 deg.
+ No. 2 " " " " " 37 deg.
+ No. 3 " " " " " 33 deg.
+ No. 4 " " " " " 30 deg.
+
+The temperature of the bath to be at 63 deg. Fahr. when tested.
+
+(DENISON'S.)
+
+No. 1 should be made to register Beaume's scale, 45 deg., the percentage
+of perchloride in this solution is 47, and the specific gravity 1.444.
+
+ No. 2, 40 deg.; percentage, 41; spec. grav. 1.375
+ No. 3, 38 " " 38; " 1.339
+ No. 4, 35 " " 35; " 1.313
+ No. 5, 27 " " 27; " 1.225
+
+From an article in the _Photographic News_ (English), Nov. 1, 1889, as
+practiced in India.
+
+
+BITING BATH.
+
+(WATERHOUSE.)
+
+ No. 1, sp. grav., 1.444; ap. per ct. of Fe_{2}, Cl_{6} = 47
+ No. 2, " 1.375; " " 41
+ No. 3, " 1.339; " " 38
+ No. 4, " 1.313; " " 35
+ No. 5, " 1.225; " " 27
+
+A stronger solution of 48 deg. has been tried (by the above) but has no
+penetrating power through even the thinnest film.
+
+
+ANOTHER FORMULA.
+
+For large plates, 20 lbs. perchloride of iron and distilled water, until
+weight amounts to 1.500 grammes per 1000 c.c. From this four (4)
+solutions are made, at
+
+ No. 1, 42 deg. Beaume; spec. grav. 1.420
+ No. 2, 38 " " " 1.375
+ No. 3, 35 " " " 1.330
+ No. 4, 31 " " " 1.285
+
+The plate is now ready for biting. Keep a record of the bitings, and
+length of time for each one, for after-study; also note the time of
+exposure of the tissue, age of same, etc., etc.
+
+Pour the acid from a glass graduate with one sweep over the plate,
+removing all bubbles with a feather, noting the time of immersion so as
+to guide you. Start with 42 deg., having ready the 37 deg. in another
+graduate, watch carefully the action of the acid, and if the resist has
+been properly printed, the action of the acid will show after a minute;
+if longer it means a generally longer biting for each bath.
+
+
+AVERAGE BITINGS.
+
+ 42 deg., No. 1 5 minutes
+ 37 deg., No. 2 5 minutes
+ 33 deg., No. 3 2 minutes
+ 30 deg., No. 4 2 minutes
+
+ Temperature of bath at 70 deg. Fahr., with No. 103 tissue.
+
+Total of different bitings, from 10 to 25 minutes, according to depth of
+printing. It always varies. There is no hard and fast rule; you must in
+time learn to judge by your eye alone. The acid will first attack the
+thinnest part of the film, wherever that may be, and when the darkening
+of the copper ceases to spread to the next thickest parts, instantly
+pour off the acid, and pour on the 37 deg. Do not allow the atmosphere
+to act on the gelatine while biting any longer than is necessary to pour
+off one bath and quickly pour on a new one. The 37 and 33 deg. baths are
+for the middle tones, the 30 deg. for the most delicate ones. The action
+of each bath is cumulative, the 37 deg. biting a little where the 42
+deg. had bitten, the 33 deg. doing the same for those before it, besides
+taking care of itself, and the 30 deg. attacking all more or less.
+During the biting with the 30 deg. solution, it should be continued
+until the whites just turn color, and a minute beyond; that is, the
+copper should begin to show a very little under the thickest and darkest
+film.
+
+(Note that in the carbon resist the shadows are transparent and the high
+lights are opaque.)
+
+The length of the last biting very seldom is over two minutes. It is
+better to overbite your darks, and underbite your lights, if you vary
+any.
+
+The amount of moisture in the air and the heat of the day influences the
+length of biting. In hot weather in summer it is very difficult to work
+the process, the walling wax being discarded and the copper (back and
+edges protected by varnish) placed in a porcelain tray, surrounded by
+ice-water and kept at 65 to 70 deg., and the acid pured over the plate
+to the depth of one inch.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+CLEANING AND POLISHING THE PLATE, WITH TOOLS NECESSARY FOR RETOUCHING.
+
+
+When the biting is finished rapidly place the plate under the tap and
+rinse thoroughly, breaking away the film with your fingers; it seems to
+have rotted under the action of the acid and is easily removed.
+
+Remove the walling wax, clean off the varnish with chloroform or
+turpentine, or alcohol first, and chloroform last. This leaves a dim
+picture on the plate, with a kind of scum over it; wet the plate with
+turpentine and start heavily with rouge, rubbing to and fro equally all
+over the plate with a ball of absorbent cotton; continue this treatment,
+using less and less rouge and more turpentine until you give the final
+polish to the high lights with a clean dry piece of cotton. Be very
+careful not to overdo in rouging; the scum (if the biting of the plate
+is of medium strength) should clear from the plate with hardly a touch,
+and with very little rouging. Some plates require a great deal of
+rouging; it then generally means that you must look to your sensitizer.
+I again draw your attention to the rouging; here is where any artistic
+feeling you may possess will come into play with taste and patience.
+
+After the plate is rouged sufficiently, an engraver's burnisher is used
+to clean up the highest lights and to modify others. Two or three
+roulettes of different fineness are valuable to touch up any darks that
+need deepening; it matches very well with the grain, but I am always
+trying to dispense with the use of the roulettes; one ought to get it
+with the acid alone. A No. 6 sewing needle in a holder (dentist's
+pin-holder, screw end) is necessary to touch out occasional white
+specks. You will have plenty of them at first unless you look out
+carefully for dust on the film; keep all your solutions constantly
+attended to by occasional filtering, and don't use your sensitizing
+solution more than half a dozen times; keep it well corked; if it gets
+old it scums the plate too much.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+PRINTING THE PLATE AND STEEL FACING.
+
+
+Before final finishing by hand a working proof should be printed from
+the plate by an expert plate printer, by which, what the plate needs can
+be determined before final proving.
+
+Have the plate proved on different papers, and with different colored
+inks, so as to judge the effect. Imperial Japan is the best paper,
+besides etching paper, India, thin Chinese and Japanese papers. The cost
+of proving per single proof is 25 cents for a 4 x 6 plate on Imp. Japan,
+about $2.00 per doz. same paper; etching paper, about $5.00 per
+100--less for large quantities.
+
+A second-hand D press, suitable for printing large or small editions or
+for proving, can be bought in Boston or New York for from $75 to $100.
+For instructions in printing see Hamerton's "Etchers and Etching."
+
+
+STEEL FACING.
+
+The life of a photogravure plate without steel facing does not last much
+beyond 75 impressions, so that if an edition is needed, send the plate
+to any good printer who will have it steel-faced for you; their charges
+are very moderate, about 50 cents for a 4 x 6 plate. The steel-facing is
+accomplished by first making the plate chemically clean, as before
+preparation for graining, only be very thorough in using an old
+tooth-brush to get out the dirt and in addition use chloroform before
+using potash. Then solder a copper wire on to the back. The negative
+wire is attached to the copper plate. To the positive pole of the quart
+Smee battery is fastened a bright steel plate same size of copper, in a
+gallon jar. The plates are hung from glass rods 1/2 inch apart, a
+sufficient quantity of the following solution to be poured into the jar:
+
+(DENISON'S.)
+
+ Warm water 20 ounces
+ Ammonium chloride 3 ounces
+ Sulphate of iron and ammonia 4 ounces
+
+Filter, and let stand for 24 hours. Five (5) minutes will cover the
+plate with a thin film of steel.
+
+
+(OBERNETTER'S.)
+
+"Place the copper plate in a porcelain tray on the bottom of which rests
+a brightly burnished copper wire, the negative pole.
+
+"The anode on the positive pole, a bright steel plate, is suspended over
+the copper plate, and kept in motion while the circuit is closed. A
+precipitate of steel, resembling silver in appearance, must instantly
+occur upon the copper plate, any air-bells to be removed. Five minutes
+is sufficient to deposit a perfect steel coating." Grease the plate
+after steel facing, to keep off the rust. Formula:
+
+(OBERNETTER'S.)
+
+ Distilled water 1 litre
+ Chloride of ammonium 60 grammes
+ Proto sulphate of iron 30 grammes
+ Iron alum 30 grammes
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+MATERIALS NECESSARY FOR PHOTOGRAVURE, AND LIST OF FIRMS SUPPLYING THEM.
+
+
+_Materials._
+
+ Printing Frame (deep), 8 x 10, screw pressure, $8.
+ Roll Carbon Tissue, No. 100; Standard Brown, $3.
+ Johnson Actinometer, $1.25.
+ Beaume Hydrometer, $1.25 (with glass).
+ Silver " (argentometer) 75c.
+ Engravers' Scraper, $1.75, best grade.
+ " Burnisher, $1.75, "
+ Powder Box for graining (paste-board), $1.
+ Powdered Syrian Asphaltum, $1 per pound.
+ Nine (9) pounds Perchloride of Iron (C. P. crystals), 45c. per pound.
+ Stick Rouge, 20c.
+ Turpentine, 20c. (refined).
+ Alcohol (95 per cent.).
+ Modeling Wax, $1.25.
+ One Ps. Scotch Stone, 25c.
+ One dozen Glass Blowers' Charcoal, $2.00 per dozen sticks (for
+ polishing copper).
+ One pound Absorbent Cotton, 50c.
+ One pound Caustic Potash C. P. (sticks).
+ One Porcelain Tray, deep, 11 x 14, $3.50.
+ One Florence Hand Lamp, 75c.
+ One Squeegee.
+ Three Roulettes, $1.50 each.
+ Hand Vise, 75c.
+ Calipers, 50c.
+ Dairy Thermometer, 25 c.
+ One bottle Etchers' Varnish, 50c.
+ One ounce Chloroform, 20c.
+ Six ounces Bichromate Potassium.
+ One pound Concentrated Ammonia.
+
+
+LIST OF FIRMS SUPPLYING MATERIALS FOR PHOTOGRAVURE.
+
+The Scovill & Adams Co., 423 Broome Street. Photographic Materials and
+Photo-Engravers' Supplies.
+
+Messrs. Bestgen & Co., 1001 Washington Street, Boston, Mass. Polishers
+of Copper Plates.
+
+Mr. George Schard, 116 Wooster Street, New York. Polisher Copper Plates.
+
+Mr. Jos. Wheeler, 299 Washington Street, Boston, Mass. Printer of
+Photogravures.
+
+Messrs. J. H. Daniels & Co., Oliver Street, Boston, Mass. Printers of
+Photogravures.
+
+Messrs. Frost & Adams, Cornhill, Boston, Mass. Engravers' and Etchers'
+Supplies.
+
+Messrs. F. W. Devoe & Co., Fulton Street, New York. Engravers' and
+Etchers' Supplies.
+
+Messrs. Fusch & Lang, 29 Warren Street, New York. Engravers' Supplies.
+
+Mr. Alfred Sellers, 58 Fulton Street, New York. Engravers' Supplies
+(screw pressure printing frames).
+
+Messrs. John Sellers & Sons, 17 Dey Street, New York. Engravers'
+Supplies.
+
+Messrs. Eimer & Amend, 18th Street and 3d Avenue, New York. Chemists,
+Glassblowers Charcoal.
+
+Messrs. Theodore Metcalf & Co., Tremont Street, Boston, Mass. Chemists.
+
+Messrs. Kimmel & Voigt, 242 Canal Street, New York. Expert Photogravure
+Printers.
+
+Messrs. Whitely & Co., Centre Street, New York. Polisher of Copper
+Plates.
+
+Messrs. Gilderslieve & Co., 18th Street, New York. Blankets for Press.
+
+Mr. Charles Creedner, 19 South William Street, Room 4, New York. Japan
+Paper.
+
+Mr. Geo. B. Sharp, 13 Baxter Street, New York. Copper Plates.
+
+Messrs. F. A. Ringler, 21 Barclay Street, New York. Steel Facing Copper
+Plates, Printers of Photogravures.
+
+Messrs. Leidel & Co., 901 6th Avenue, corner 51st Street, New York.
+Modeling Wax; Etchers' Supplies.
+
+Thomas Hall (Electrician), Bromfield Street, Boston, Mass. Hydrometers
+(Smee's Battery), etc.
+
+New York Steel and Copper Plate Co., 171 Wallabout Street, Brooklyn,
+N. Y.
+
+Mr. Jas. Moffet, 159 Wooster Street, New York. Copper Plates in the
+Rough.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+BOOKS AND ARTICLES ON PHOTOGRAVURE. PUBLISHED FROM 1888 TO 1893.
+
+
+LA PHOTOGRAVURE facile et a bon marche. Par l'Abbe Ferret. Paris. 1889.
+Price, 1 fr. 25 cents.
+
+Manuel d'Heliographie et de Photogravure en Relief. Par G. Bonnet. 1890.
+Paris. 2 fr. 50 cents.
+
+Photogravure. By W. T. Wilkinson. 1890. London, E. C. Published by
+Messrs Iliffe & Son, 3 St. Bride Street. Price, 1_s._ 6_d._
+
+Photo-Engraving and Photo-Etching. By W. T. Wilkinson. Sold by The
+Scovill & Adams Co., New York. Price, $3.00.
+
+Hamerton's "Etchers and Etching." Roberts Bros., Boston, Mass. Price,
+$4.00.
+
+Photo-Etching in India. Article in _Photographic News_ (English),
+November 1, 1889.
+
+"Photogravure, or Photographic Etching on Copper." By Herbert Denison. A
+lecture delivered before the Photographic Society of Great Britain.
+Printed in THE PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES, April 21st, 1893, and following
+issues.
+
+Photogravure or Photo-Etching. Article in _Wilson's Magazine_,
+1890-1891.
+
+Notes on Photo-Aquatint. Catalogue of Exhibition, Illustrating the
+Reproductive Arts and Photo-Mechanical Processes. Address S. R. Koehler,
+Boston Art Museum, Boston, Mass.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+
+
+ Merck's Pyrogallic Acid
+
+
+ will be found, upon comparison, to be _superior_ in every respect to
+ all other brands on the market. Its distinctive points of superiority
+ are:
+
+ 1ST.--ABSOLUTE PURITY
+ 2D.--PERFECT CRYSTALLIZATION
+ 3D.--IMMACULATE WHITENESS
+ 4TH.--EXTREME LIGHTNESS
+ 5TH.--MODERATE COST
+
+ (Its price is not higher than that of any other make.)
+
+ [Illustration]
+
+
+ Merck's Pyrogallic Acid
+
+ produces the highest intensity to be desired in a photographic plate,
+ and, at the same time, the finest detail in light and shade required
+ for the most perfect printing negative.
+
+ Under ordinary precaution, it retains all its superior qualities
+ undiminished for an indefinite length of time.
+
+ WHEN ORDERING SPECIFY "=MERCK'S.="
+ TO BE HAD OF ALL DEALERS.
+
+
+ TESTIMONIALS.
+
+
+ "I have tested Merck's pyro carefully in comparison with the other
+ pyros at present on the market, and I find that it is superior to
+ any and all of them."
+
+ Prof. CHARLES EHRMANN,
+ Instructor of the Chautauqua School of Photography.
+
+
+ "I shall, in future, certainly use no other pyro but Merck's. The
+ best is always good enough for me."
+
+ ALFRED STIEGLITZ,
+ Editor _American Amateur Photographer_.
+
+
+ "Merck's Pyrogallic Acid will be found a very superior article. Its
+ purity is absolute, with quick crystallization and immaculate
+ whiteness. In use, it produces the highest intensity that can be
+ desired in the negatives. The detail in light and shade is perfect,
+ producing printing qualities unsurpassed by any pyro we have ever
+ used."
+
+ ST. LOUIS AND CANADIAN PHOTOGRAPHER.
+
+
+ "Merck's pyro has undergone a severe test in my hands. I find it to
+ possess many qualities which give it superiority over all other
+ makes. Authorities place the solubility of pyro as one part in two
+ of water. I found one ounce of Merck's to dissolve readily in 1:7 of
+ water at 60 deg.. It is extremely light, pure, and of a fine white
+ color, giving rich negatives full of vigor and sparkling
+ brilliancy."
+
+ WALTER E. WOODBURY,
+ Editor of _The Photographic Times_.
+
+
+ "I have used Merck's Pyrogallic Acid, and prefer it to all others."
+
+ B. W. KILBURN,
+ Official Photographer (Stereoscopic), at the Columbian World's
+ Fair, and San Francisco Mid-Winter Exposition.
+
+
+ "I have tried Merck's pyro and must certainly say it is the best I
+ ever used. The results I have obtained with it are remarkably fine."
+
+ W. B. POST,
+ Amateur Photographer, New York.
+
+
+ MORENO STUDIO, Fifth Ave., New York.
+
+ "I have been using Merck's pyro in my studio, and am very well
+ pleased with it. It is clean, gives brilliant negatives, and is
+ reliable, one day's work being exactly the same as another's."
+
+ A. MORENO.
+
+
+ "I have been using Merck's pyro, and am ready to indorse the high
+ praise which you have found it entitled to: 'that it is superior in
+ point of purity, lightness and solubility' to any like product that
+ I have seen. In fact, 'the new and improved process' seems to reach
+ in its result the point beyond which it is impossible to go--that
+ is, perfection. This was my impression at first sight, and using
+ serves only to confirm it.
+
+ In my opinion, pyro stands at the head of all developers of dry
+ plates, and I am much mistaken if Merck's pyro, when known, does not
+ lead all brands of pyro."
+
+ W. H. SHERMAN,
+ Professional Photographer, Milwaukee.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ Scovill & Adams Photo-Engraving Materials,
+ Combined in a small outfit for Half-tone Photo-Engraving.
+
+ The articles contained in this outfit are all that is necessary for
+ the Half-tone Process, except when the installation of large and
+ expensive machinery is warranted.
+
+ 1 10 x 12 American Optical Co. Enlarging, Reducing and
+ Copying Camera, fitted with Patent Screen Plate
+ Holder $56.00
+ 1 Camera Swing 20.00
+ 1 Copy Board 2.00
+ 1 Max Levy Screen, 133 lines to the inch, 10 x 12 80.00
+ 1 Max Levy Screen, 150 lines to the inch, 10 x 12 95.00
+ 1 Rectilinear Lens, Rapid Paragon, 10 x 12, w. D. 68.00
+ 2 2-qt. Funnels, glass, 25c. .50
+ 6 8-oz. " " 12c. .72
+ 1 pkg. No. 33 Filtering Paper .75
+ 2 Hydrometers, 50c. 1.00
+ 2 11 x 14 Glass Baths in Studio Box, $7 14.00
+ 1 Rubber Dipper .60
+ 1 2-gall. Evap. Dish 3.00
+ 2 10 x 12 Porcelain Trays, $1.66 3.32
+ 2 10 x 12 Vulcanite Trays, $1.75 3.50
+ 2 16-oz. Graduates, 75c. 1.50
+ 4 4-oz. " 30c. 1.20
+ 1 9 x 11 Printing Frame, 1-in. glass 9.50
+ 1 8 x 10 Retouching Frame 3.75
+ 2 large Neg. Racks 6.00
+ 1 13-in. French Hand Roller 7.00
+ 1 Composition Roller, 12-in. 4.00
+ 2 Pincers 2.00
+ 2 Acid Brushes 3.50
+ 1 Ink Spatula 1.00
+ 1 Hook for cutting Zinc Plates 1.50
+ Retouching Brushes .50
+ 1 gal. Absolute Alcohol 4.00
+ 31/2 lbs. Ether 2.63
+ 4 oz. Pary's Gun Cotton, 50c. 2.00
+ 4 oz. Iodide Potass., 30c. 1.20
+ 2 oz. Resubl. Iodine, 35c. .70
+ 3 lbs. Nitrate Silver Crystal, $8.50 25.50
+ 1 lb. Absorbent Cotton, 1 lb. packages .75
+ 5 lbs. Protosulph. Iron, 10c. .50
+ 1 lb. Citric Acid .70
+ 1 " Bichloride Mercury 1.00
+ 5 " Cyanide Potash 3.25
+ 1 " Glycerine .30
+ 5 b'ks Blue Litmus Paper, 5c. .25
+ 1 lb. Aqua Ammonia fort. .32
+ 1/2 lb. Nitric Acid, C. P. .45
+ 1 gall. Benzole 1.50
+ 1 lb. Bichromate Ammonia .75
+ 1 " Caustic Potash .15
+ 8 " Com'l Nitric Acid, 45c. 3.60
+ 1 " Ferri Chloride, 1 bot. .30
+ 1 " Rubber Cement, 1 can .30
+ 1 " Nitrate Lead, 1 bot. 1.00
+ 1 " Ferricyan. Potash, 1 bot. 1.00
+ 1/2 " Transfer Ink 2.50
+ 1/2 " Engraver's Charcoal 1.50
+ 1 " Pumice Stone .10
+ 5 " Sulphate Copper, 40c. 2.00
+ 2 " 3/8-in. Brass Pins, 40c. .80
+ 1 " Lith. Ink, black 3.50
+ 2 galls. Le Page's Liquid Glue, $2.25 4.50
+ 1 Shoot Board and Plane 25.00
+ 1 set Engraving Tools 1.50
+ 1 " Finishing " 2.50
+ 1 1/2-in. Flat File .50
+ 1 1-in. " .85
+ 1 set Ass'd Sable Pencils, Nos. 1 to 6 .62
+ 1 Darlot Focusing Glass 2.50
+ 1 5-in. Engraver's Pad, filled 1.00
+ 1 Egg Beater .30
+ 1 set Roulettes 6.00
+ 1 ream Proof Paper 10.00
+ 1 16-oz. plain Collodion Vial .55
+ 1 lb. best Dragon's Blood .85
+ Polished Zinc Plates, sq. in. .01
+ " Copper " " .011/4
+
+ SEND FOR THE PHOTO-ENGRAVERS' CATALOGUE to
+ THE SCOVILL & ADAMS CO., 423 Broome St., N.Y.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ Copying Cameras
+ FOR
+ PHOTO-ENGRAVING.
+
+ The Scovill Enlarging, Reducing and Copying Cameras.
+
+ With S. & A. Photo-Engravers' Adjustable Screen Plate Holder.
+
+ [Illustration]
+
+ No. 61. Size, 61/2 x 81/2, 4 ft. bed Price, $38.00
+ " 62. " 8 x 10, 5 ft. bed " 43.00
+ " 63. " 10 x 12, 5 " " 56.00
+ " 64. " 11 x 14, 5 " " 68.00
+ " 65. " 14 x 17, 6 " " 80.00
+ " 66. " 17 x 20, 7 " " 95.00
+ " 67. " 20 x 24, 7 " " 118.00
+
+ _Special sizes and styles made to order._
+
+ The form of construction of this Camera is made apparent
+ by the illustration here shown.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ SCOVILL
+ COPYING CAMERAS.
+
+ With S. & A. Photo-Engravers' Adjustable Screen Plate Holder.
+
+ [Illustration]
+
+ These Cameras are made of hardwood, shellacked, not varnished.
+ Naturally they are without swing, but in every requisite they are
+ complete; and for this particular service, as well as others, the
+ American Optical Company's make is sought for before all others.
+ Such varied lengths of bed are required and ordered, that we can
+ only give a price list for Copying Cameras with the regulation
+ length of bed. We make them to order of any length of platform
+ desired, either rigid or detachable, and with either single or
+ double bellows.
+
+ Estimates promptly and cheerfully furnished.
+
+ No. 70. 61/2 x 81/2, with bed 3 feet in length Price, $33.00
+ " 71. 8 x 10, " 33/4 " " 38.00
+ " 72. 10 x 12, " 4 " " 46.00
+ " 73. 11 x 14, " 41/2 " " 53.00
+ " 74. 14 x 17, " 5 " " 66.00
+ " 75. 17 x 20, " 6 " " 72.00
+ " 76. 20 x 24, " 6 " " 98.00
+
+ _Larger sizes made to order._
+
+ When ordering Copying Camera, please give length of cone, if that is
+ needed.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ The S. & A. Photo-Engravers' Adjustable Screen Plate Holder.
+
+ [Illustration]
+
+ (Patent applied for.)
+
+ This Holder, as is shown in the cut above, is a great improvement
+ over any heretofore manufactured for photo-engraving purposes. Its
+ principal points of superiority are, briefly:
+
+ First.--The ease with which it is adjusted for different size plates
+ and screens, by a simple sliding movement of the two inside frames
+ to or from the centre, and thus dispensing with the expensive and
+ troublesome use of kit frames.
+
+ Second.--The convenience by which the screen plate is accurately
+ adjusted to the sensitized plate by means of the metallic sliding
+ adjusters. (Heretofore it has been necessary to do the adjusting by
+ means of inserting different thicknesses of cardboard, paper, etc.)
+
+ Third.--Different thicknesses in the screen plates are allowed for
+ by means of a spring which always holds the plate in accurate place,
+ no matter what its thickness may be.
+
+ Fourth.--A graduated scale on each screen adjuster makes it easy to
+ always insure absolute accuracy in determining the distance of the
+ screen plate from the wet plate.
+
+ Fifth.--The simplicity of construction and excellent workmanship of
+ the entire holder, being made, as it is, in the factory of the
+ famous American Optical Company.
+
+ And, altogether, it is an ingeniously designed and beautifully
+ constructed holder, which will be found of indispensable aid to the
+ practical photographer.
+
+ These holders are thicker than the ordinary plate holders, and if it
+ is desired to use them on a camera the ground glass of which is
+ focused for the ordinary plate holder, a new ground glass frame is
+ necessary in order to adjust the focus. When ordering a holder to
+ fit a camera in use, send the old holder or the old ground glass
+ frame, so that the new ones can be made to fit the camera. Also
+ state the size of largest and smallest screen plate to be used in
+ holder.
+
+ It is made in various sizes. Prices as follows: Frames _only_;
+ for Ground Glass.
+
+ 8 x 10 size $15.50 $1.50
+ 10 x 12 " 21.00 1.50
+ 11 x 14 " 26.50 1.88
+ 14 x 17 " 29.00 2.25
+ 17 x 20 " 32.50 2.63
+ 18 x 22 " 36.00 2.63
+ 20 x 24 " 40.75 3.00
+
+ If adjustment from the outside of holder is desired, add $2.00 to
+ above prices.
+
+ THE SCOVILL & ADAMS CO., 423 Broome St., New York City.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ The Scovill Printing Frames for Photo-Engraving.
+
+ [Illustration]
+
+ The Printing Frames made by the American Optical Co. for
+ photo-engraving are like everything else manufactured by this
+ factory, of the highest degree of perfection, and the utmost care
+ was given to the comparative distance of screws so as to produce an
+ even pressure. Many negatives have been either ruined or snapped by
+ the use of imperfect Printing Frames.
+
+ [Illustration]
+
+ The American Optical Co. Printing Frames for photo-engraving are the
+ only safe ones on the market.
+
+ PRICES.
+
+ 8 x 10, including one-inch glass $8.00
+ 10 x 12, " " " 11.02
+ 9 x 11, " " " 9.50
+ 11 x 14, " " " 13.00
+ 14 x 17, " " " 19.00
+
+ Larger and special sizes made to order.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ To Photo Engravers:
+
+ Having systematically undertaken the improvement of photo engravers'
+ appliances, we follow the S. & A. Photo Engravers' Adjustable Screen
+ Plate Holder, and the S. & A. accurately adjusted Photo-Engraving
+ Printing Frames, with the
+
+ S. & A.
+ Photo-Engraving Etching Tub,
+
+ to which we call the attention of those interested in this business.
+ We extend to them a cordial invitation to examine the same at our
+ salesrooms.
+
+ [Illustration]
+
+ These Photo-Engraving Etching Tubs will "fill a long felt want" with
+ the photo engravers, as they are constructed so as to resist the
+ strongest acids, and combine the features suggested by practical
+ experience.
+
+ The tub measures, inside, 481/2 inches long, 201/4 inches wide,
+ and 7-5/8 inches deep, and the price of same is $10.00.
+
+ Very truly yours,
+
+ =The Scovill & Adams Co.=
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ [Illustration]
+
+ IN OLDEN TIMES
+
+ people were satisfied to worry along with whatever crude appliances
+ came easiest to hand....
+
+ =The material progress= of the nineteenth century, however, has
+ created a demand for a higher order of mechanical products than was
+ formerly deemed essential, and this is peculiarly the case with....
+
+ Process Engravers.
+
+ =To meet this demand=, the firm of JOHN ROYLE & SONS have devoted the
+ best part of their time, for the past 25 years, to the improvement of
+ the mechanical accessories to Process Engraving, and with what
+ success is best testified to by the fact that their machinery is
+ used exclusively by the _best_ Process Engravers, both in the United
+ States and abroad.
+
+ JOHN ROYLE & SONS,
+ Paterson, N. J., U. S. A.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ Chrome=Gelatine and
+ Photo=Gelatine.
+
+ Chrome-Gelatine is a perfected modification of the three-color
+ printing process. It is so named from the Gelatine process of
+ printing being used to produce the resulting pictures, which are
+ allowed to be really wonderful, and which may be reproductions from
+ original Oil Paintings, Water-colors, Views from Nature, Objects of
+ Still Life, Textile Fabrics--indeed, all classes of work copied from
+ originals in color. The results, in all cases, are produced from
+ three-color negatives. Artists, whose works have been reproduced by
+ this method, express their satisfaction of the results in the
+ highest terms, without qualification.
+
+ N. Y. Photogravure Co.
+ 137 West 23d Street,
+ New York.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ Photogravure and Aquarelle
+
+ (_Photogravure in Colors._)
+
+ Photogravures are of all classes of subjects.
+
+ An important modification of this process has recently been perfected
+ (patent applied for), by which the delicacy of the gelatine print is
+ maintained, at the same time that great strength and color is produced
+ in the shadows. The plates thus made are very durable, and show but
+ little wear after many thousands of impressions have been produced.
+ Moreover, they require no finishing or handling after having been
+ etched, and are quite easily printed.
+
+ Aquarelles are printed from photogravure plates, inked up locally in a
+ variety of colors. When the whole of the plate has been so inked, the
+ impression is pulled. The results are beautiful, but the process of
+ printing is exceedingly slow--three or four impressions a day, only,
+ being obtainable from a moderate sized plate.
+
+ N. Y. Photogravure Co.
+ 137 West 23d Street,
+ New York.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ Publications
+
+ THE N. Y. PHOTOGRAVURE CO. has on hand thousands of subjects of all
+ classes, available for the purposes of illustration, and at the
+ service of its customers. The newest and best subjects are being
+ continually added to this collection. Sets of illustrations selected
+ with the greatest care and skill, for any desired purpose.
+
+ The N. Y. Photogravure Co.
+ 137 West 23d Street,
+ New York.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ SUN AND SHADE.
+
+ An Artistic Periodical.
+ Published Monthly.
+
+ Forty cents a number. Four dollars a year. Each number contains eight
+ exquisite Photogravures, Photo-gelatines or Color Prints, by the
+ new Chrome-gelatine process, printed on paper 11 x 14 inches, with
+ descriptive letter-press. Six volumes are now complete, price $4.00
+ each. Each volume contains nearly one hundred plates. The whole six
+ volumes form a complete gallery of current art.
+
+ "SUN AND SHADE reproduces not only the most notable paintings
+ and portraits, but the best work of amateur and professional
+ photographers. If it gave nothing but the latter work it would be
+ deserving of the most liberal patronage that it receives; but it is
+ an admirable record of the greatest paintings at the Metropolitan
+ Museum of Art, of living American players, of portraits of celebrated
+ Americans, of great American painters, with reproductions of their
+ work, and it is a monument of the N. Y. Photogravure Co., which is a
+ monument of artistic New York."
+
+ The N. Y. Photogravure Co.
+ 137 West 23d Street,
+ New York.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ ALFRED SELLERS & CO.
+
+ MANUFACTURERS OF ZINC COPPER AND BRASS PLATES FOR Photo-Engravers.
+
+ Printing Frames, Etching Tubs, Etching Powders, Rollers, Etc.
+
+ SELLERS' SPECIAL TRANSFER.
+ ETCHING AND PROVING INKS.
+
+ Inking Slabs, Chemicals (Chas. Cooper & Co.'s), Formulas, and
+ all Supplies for Photo-Engravers.
+
+ Photo-Engraving Taught
+ IN ALBUMEN, BITUMEN, OR THE ENAMEL PROCESS.
+
+ TRY THE NEW RUSSELL ETCHING POWDER.
+
+ Supplies in General. Send for Price List.
+
+ 59 Beekman Street, New York, N. Y.
+ U. S. A.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ [Illustration: E. C. MEINECKE. ERNEST BURTT. H W ROWLAND.
+
+ PHOTO-GRAVURE.
+ PHOTO-GELATINE.
+ PHOTO-LITHOGRAPHY.
+ LITHOGRAPHY.
+ PHOTO-ENGRAVING.
+ TYPE-PRINTING.
+
+ WORKS. BROOKLYN. N.Y.
+
+ E. C. MEINECKE & CO.
+ ROOM 5. 63 WEST 22ND STREET.
+ NEW YORK.]
+
+ The favorable comments received from all sources testify to the
+ unrivaled results obtained by the PHOTOGRAVURE PROCESS, as worked
+ by our method.
+
+ In reviewing a set of photogravures of the Clifton Water Garden,
+ from negatives by the proprietor, Mr. S. C. Nash, the _Florists'
+ Exchange_, says:
+
+ "In his work he has been ably seconded by Messrs. E. C. Meinecke &
+ Co., of New York, the makers and printers of the plates. Without
+ fear of contradiction, we state there is no method of reproducing a
+ picture to compare with the photogravure process, except, possibly,
+ the expensive and tedious steel plate. For fidelity to detail,
+ sharpness of outline, contrast of light and shadow, breadth and
+ depth, and absolute fidelity to life, we choose this.
+
+ The Photogravure Process _IS THE BEST FOR_
+
+ =Book Illustrations=
+ =Art and Trade Catalogues=
+ =Calendars, Menus, Etc.=
+
+ where the most artistic results are desired. Either
+
+ =PLATES SUPPLIED=
+
+ combining the BEST WEARING QUALITIES with the most Artistic
+ Finish, or editions ready for the binder.
+
+ Your correspondence is solicited, and a trial order requested, which
+ will be executed promptly and in the best manner.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ =AMATEURS!=
+
+ In order to get the =Best Results= You must use the
+
+ =CRAMER PLATE=
+
+ Manufactured by
+
+ =G. Cramer Dry Plate Works, St. Louis, Mo.=
+
+ =Your Dealer does not KEEP Cramer Plates, he SELLS them.=
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ =If you want to secure the best Photogravure results,=
+ =Then you must use the best plates, and these are=
+ =Wuestner's "White Label" 50 Sens. Plate.=
+
+ =WUESTNER'S=
+ =New Eagle Dry Plate Works.=
+
+ For Sale by all Dealers.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ [Illustration: OUR BUSINESS is to sell EVERYTHING USED IN PHOTOGRAPHY
+ DOUGLASS & SHUEY CO. III STATE ST. CHICAGO.]
+
+ =Photogravure Worker.=
+
+ =Have you tried=
+ =THE ORIGINAL=
+
+ ZEISS LENS?
+
+ =NO?=
+
+ _BETTER DO SO AT ONCE._
+
+ THE SCOVILL & ADAMS CO.
+ HAVE THEM!
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ =ZEISS-ANASTIGMAT LENSES=
+
+ =Manufactured by=
+ =BAUSCH & LOMB OPTICAL CO.=
+
+ =ARE UNAPPROACHED for all Process Work, and are rapidly
+ displacing other forms of Lenses.=
+
+ =515-543 N. St. Paul Street, Rochester, N. Y.,=
+ =New York City, Corner Fulton & Nassau Sts.=
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ [Illustration: THE PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES
+
+ AN ILLUSTRATED MONTHLY MAGAZINE
+ DEVOTED TO THE INTERESTS OF
+ ARTISTIC & SCIENTIFIC PHOTOGRAPHY
+
+ THE PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES PUBLISHING
+ ASSOCIATION 423 BROOME STREET NEW YORK
+
+ EDITED BY WALTER E. WOODBURY.]
+
+ Each number contains from 50 to 60 Illustrations!
+ besides a magnificent PHOTOGRAVURE FRONTISPIECE.
+
+ The Most "up to date" Photographic Magazine in the world.
+
+ ALL THE BEST AND LATEST IMPROVEMENTS CHRONICLED BY THE BEST WRITERS.
+
+ Reproductions of all the finest photographic work from all parts of
+ the world.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ A FEW UNSOLICITED OPINIONS OF
+ The Photographic Times.
+
+ "It is a daisy."--Hon. A. A. ADEE.
+
+ "It is a veritable triumph of photographic literature."--J. J.
+ CARTER.
+
+ "One of the finest illustrated magazines received by us is THE
+ PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES."--_Chenango Telegraph._
+
+ "If my opinion is of any value, I will tell you that it is far and
+ away ahead of anything that has ever been attempted."--H. J. AIKEN.
+
+ "You have certainly reached the very height of possibilities in a
+ photographic magazine."--ARTHUR J. BENTON.
+
+ "The photographic art has hitherto had no better exponent, and the
+ publishers of this magazine are determined to keep at the head of
+ the literature of their profession. The many original articles are
+ fully illustrated."--_The Portland Transcript._
+
+ "Be sure and continue sending it. Can't keep house without it."--J.
+ E. CRAIG.
+
+ "It is a beauty in every sense."--CHAS. WAGER HULL.
+
+ "The subject-matter, the number and quality of the illustrations,
+ the typographic work and the general appearance of THE PHOTOGRAPHIC
+ TIMES, monthly, are, separately and collectively, cause for hearty
+ congratulation. Permit me to hereby extend mine, together with
+ sincere wishes for your continued success."--C. D. CHENEY.
+
+ ________________ 189
+
+ The Photographic Times Publishing Association,
+ =423 Broome Street, New York, N. Y.=
+
+ _Please send me_ =The Photographic Times=, _commencing with_
+ _______________ 189 , _for_ _______________ _to my address_:
+
+ _Name_, ______________________________________
+ _P. O._, _____________________________________
+ _County_, ____________________________________
+ _State_, _____________________________________
+
+ Subscription rates, one year, $4.00; six months, $2.00; three months,
+ $1.00; single copies, 35 cents.
+
+ Remit by Express, Money Order, Draft, P. O. Order, or Registered
+ Letter.
+
+ Subscriptions to THE PHOTOGRAPHIC TIMES received by all dealers
+ in photographic materials in this and foreign countries; also by
+ The American News Company and all its branches.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ =The Photographic Appetite=
+
+ increases by what it feeds on. The beginner is usually content to
+ start with a modest outfit, but as interest grows the hunger for more
+ artistic results calls for better facilities so that the apparatus
+ must constantly be of a more improved pattern and contain all the
+ latest fixings, till finally the question of improvement is entirely
+ one of the value of the lens.
+
+ 4 x 5 Size
+
+ The Empire, =$5.00=
+ The New Waterbury, =$15.00=
+ The Henry Clay 2d, =$15.00=
+ The Waterbury, =$25.00=
+ The Henry Clay, Jr. =$30.00=
+ The Henry Clay, =$50.00=
+
+ To suit this growing appetite we make a line of camera boxes unequaled
+ for workmanship and convenient appliances. We can supply any stage of
+ hunger, and make to order to suit any whim. Any photographic question
+ cheerfully answered. Send for our Catalogue.
+
+ The Scovill & Adams Co.
+ 423 Broome Street, New York.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ ANTHION-SCHERING
+ The Best Hypo Eliminator.
+
+
+ DIRECTIONS FOR USE.
+
+ THE SOLUTION.
+
+ Five grammes (75 grains) =Anthion= are dissolved in one litre (one
+ quart) of luke-warm distilled water. The solution keeps for at least
+ one month.
+
+
+ A. For Gelatine Plates.
+
+ _a._ The plate (13 x 18 centimetres--5 x 7 inches) or film, after
+ fixing, is allowed to drain and then washed for about five minutes
+ in a dish with about 600 cubic centimetres (20 fluid ounces) water;
+ it is then again allowed to drain.
+
+ _b._ Afterward it is laid in a second dish with 200 c.c. (7 fluid
+ ounces) =Anthion solution=, and again allowed to remain for five
+ minutes with occasional stirring.
+
+ _c._ The plate is then once more laid in 600 c.c. (20 fluid ounces)
+ fresh water, exactly according to direction _a_.
+
+ _d._ The operations _b_ and _c_ are repeated.
+
+ The plate is then =free from fixing soda=. (In order to determine
+ this, proceed as follows:)
+
+
+ Test.
+
+ To be certain that all the fixing soda is completely destroyed,
+ proceed as follows: Several c.c. (half to one teaspoonful) of the
+ last washing water are poured into a test-tube, and three or four
+ drops silver nitrate solution (1 to 20) added. A white precipitate
+ generally forms. If this gradually acquires a =yellow= tint, fixing
+ soda is still present.
+
+ In such a case operations _a_ and _b_ are to be repeated.
+
+
+ B. For Positive Paper Prints.
+
+ The operations are carried out as under A, but instead of one plate
+ five fixed copies (13 x 18 c.c.--5 x 7 inches) are taken, allowed to
+ drain one by one, then laid singly in water (vide _a_), afterward in
+ =Anthion solution= (vide _b_), then again in water (vide _c_), again
+ in =Anthion solution= (vide _d_), and finally in water.
+
+ =It is important that the paper prints are frequently separated in
+ the different baths.= If the prints stick together, the solution
+ does not penetrate and cannot act.
+
+
+ = IMPORTANT =
+
+ For large plates and prints it is not only necessary to use larger
+ dishes, but also more liquid, both =Anthion solution= and water. An
+ excess of =Anthion= or of water is decidedly useful, but less is
+ disadvantageous.
+
+ The above directions for washing relate to those who have no
+ continual flow of water at hand.
+
+ If a continual flow of water is obtainable, it is advisable to wash
+ the plates or prints in flowing water for a quarter of an hour, and
+ then dip in the =Anthion solution= and test the result as above.
+
+ Send orders to your Dealers, or to
+ The Scovill & Adams Co., New York.
+
+ * * * * *
+
+
+ When purchasing a Developer please be particular to specify
+ Schering's the oldest and most favorably known brand.
+
+ _Put up with labels and seals as per fac-similes here given._
+
+ [Illustration: ONE OUNCE =PYROGALLIC ACID= RESUBLIMED
+ From E. SCHERING, MANUFACTURING CHEMIST, BERLIN, GERMANY.]
+
+ THE STANDARD OF THE LAST--THIRD--EDITION OF THE GERMAN PHARMACOPOEIA.
+
+ See that you get the Genuine "Schering's." Excelled by none.
+
+ Send Orders to your Dealers, or to
+ THE SCOVILL & ADAMS COMPANY, NEW YORK.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Photogravure, by Henry R. Blaney
+
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