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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Wonderland; or Alaska and the Inside Passage, by 
+Lieut. Frederick Schwatka and John Hyde
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Wonderland; or Alaska and the Inside Passage
+       With a Description of the Country Traversed by the Northern
+       Pacific Railroad
+
+Author: Lieut. Frederick Schwatka
+        John Hyde
+
+Release Date: June 16, 2011 [EBook #36435]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WONDERLAND; OR ALASKA AND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Jens Nordmann, Greg Bergquist and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                           Transcriber's Notes:
+
+The original spelling and minor inconsistencies in the spelling and
+formatting have been maintained.
+
+The ligature oe has been marked as [oe].
+
+A list with all corrections applied to the text has been added at the
+end of the text.
+
+
+                                Formatting:
+
+Text in italics has been marked with underscores (_text_) and bold text
+using the equals sign (=text=).
+
+
+
+
+     [Illustration: COLUMBIA RIVER, LOOKING EASTWARD FROM ROCK BLUFF.]
+
+
+
+
+                                Wonderland;
+
+                                    OR
+
+                       ALASKA AND THE INLAND PASSAGE
+
+                                    BY
+
+                        LIEUT. FREDERICK SCHWATKA.
+
+                                   WITH
+
+               A Description of the Country Traversed by the
+                        Northern Pacific Railroad.
+
+                                    BY
+
+                                JOHN HYDE,
+
+      Author of "The Wonderland Route to the Pacific Coast," "Alice's
+               Adventures in the New Wonderland," etc., etc.
+
+
+        Copyrighted, 1886, by CHAS. S. FEE, General Passenger Agent
+                   Northern Pacific Railroad, St. Paul.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Rand McNally & Co.]
+
+
+                      PRINTERS AND ENGRAVERS, CHICAGO
+
+
+
+
+                               INTRODUCTORY.
+
+
+"Multi discurrent, et augebitur _stultitia_." Thus did one of the
+profoundest of modern thinkers parody the prediction of the Hebrew
+prophet who foretold the time when, with increased facilities for travel
+and intercommunication, there should come a great enlargement of the
+bounds of knowledge, and a corresponding amelioration of the condition
+of humanity.
+
+It would, however, be strange indeed, if the complex process of social
+evolution, even in its present stage, were not marked by some of the
+indications of a retrograde movement. The age in which we live has
+undoubtedly its peculiar follies and foibles, which are but thrown into
+relief by the qualities that more generally distinguish it.
+
+But many are running to and fro, and knowledge is being increased.
+Nature is revealing herself to the traveler in new forms and aspects,
+and disclosing to his wondering gaze mysterious pages of her great book
+hitherto hidden from him.
+
+And while extensive tracts of country, presenting physical features to
+which the entire known world furnishes no parallel, have been brought by
+railroad enterprise within reach alike of the curious sight-seer and the
+inquiring student, a vast region, of almost unexampled wealth-producing
+capabilities, has, by the same agency, been thrown open to that
+advancing tide of civilization which is rapidly overspreading the world.
+
+Hence the traveler journeying to Wonderland--to that enchanted realm
+where the most extravagant creations of the fancy appear trivial and
+commonplace beside the more extraordinary works of Nature--sees also, in
+process of solution, some of the hitherto most perplexing problems of
+economics; observes, as he can not do with like facility anywhere else
+in the world, the well-ordered plan upon which the bounty of Nature is
+distributed; and witnesses the unlocking of vast storehouses of good, to
+supply the increasing needs of the human race.
+
+It may be doubted whether the world affords another tour at once so
+delightful and so instructive as that which, beginning at the head of
+the Mississippi valley, and crossing the great wheat fields of Dakota
+and Eastern Washington, the stock ranges of Montana, and the gold and
+silver ribbed mountains of Montana and Idaho, embraces also the wonders
+of the Yellowstone National Park, and the incomparable scenery of the
+Columbia river, to crown all with the stupendous sights of that Great
+Land whose unique natural features have earned for it the well-deserved
+title of "Wonderland." No longer one of peril and hardship, but, on the
+contrary, one of absolute luxury, this tour has, within the last two
+years, attracted thousands of pilgrims from all parts of the civilized
+world. To them, as well as to all other lovers of the sublime and
+beautiful, and to the students of the mysteries of Nature in all lands,
+who may have the good fortune to visit the far Northwest in 1886, the
+following pages are respectfully inscribed.
+
+
+
+
+                                CONTENTS.
+
+                                                                       PAGE
+  The Advantages of Travel--Introductory                                  3
+  The Development of the Northwest--St. Paul and Minneapolis           7, 8
+  Minnesota Lakes and their Attractions for the Angler                 8-10
+  Brainerd, Duluth, Superior and Ashland                                 10
+  Red River Valley                                                       12
+  The Changes of a Half Century                                          13
+  Great Wheat Farms of Dakota, and the Capital of the Territory          14
+  "Bad Lands" of the Little Missouri                                 15, 16
+  Yellowstone River                                                   16-19
+  Yellowstone National Park                                           20-22
+  Helena and the Romance of Mining                                    23-26
+  Main Range of the Rocky Mountains                                  26, 27
+  Butte City, the greatest Mining Camp in the World                   27-30
+  The Flathead Country                                               30, 31
+  Clark's Fork and Lake Pend d'Oreille                                31-34
+  Spokane Falls                                                          35
+  Palouse and Walla Walla Wheat Countries                            36, 37
+  The Columbia River                                                  37-40
+  Portland                                                           40, 41
+  The Willamette Valley and Southern Oregon                          42, 43
+  The Lower Columbia and City of Astoria, with Fisheries              43-46
+  Western Washington: its Scenery and Resources                          46
+  The Sovereign Mountain: Tacoma                                         47
+  Puget Sound                                                         48-54
+  Victoria, British Columbia                                         55, 56
+  Discovery Passage                                                      58
+  Queen Charlotte Sound                                                  60
+  Varieties of Fish found in Inland Passage                              62
+  Wrangell, Alaska                                                   63, 64
+  Indian Life, Facilities for Studying                                67-71
+  Sitka, Alaska                                                       73-77
+  Hot Springs Bay, Alaska                                                77
+  Climate of Sitka                                                       79
+  Land of the Chilkats                                                81-84
+  Juneau, Alaska, and the Mines of Douglas Island                     84-86
+  Glacier Bay                                                         86-92
+  Glaciers of Alaska                                                  93-95
+  Mount St. Elias                                                    95, 96
+
+
+
+
+                          INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+                                                                       PAGE
+  Alaska's Thousand Islands, as seen from Sitka                          78
+  An Alaska Indian House, with Totem Poles                               66
+  Chancel of the Greek Church, Sitka                                     75
+  Chilkat Blanket                                                        81
+  Columbia River, looking Eastward from Rock Bluff             Frontispiece
+  Detroit Lake and Hotel Minnesota, Detroit, Minn.                       11
+  Falls of the Gibbon River, National Park                               29
+  Floating Fish Wheel, Columbia River                                    42
+  Hotel Tacoma, Tacoma, W. T.                                            47
+  Lake Pend d'Oreille, Idaho                                             33
+  Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, National Park                               21
+  Mount Hood, from the Head of the Dalles, Columbia River                38
+  Mount Tacoma, W. T.                                                    44
+  Old Faithful Geyser, National Park                                     18
+  Scenes among the Alaskan Glaciers                                      89
+  Scenes in the Inland Passage                                           59
+  Sitka, Alaska                                                          72
+  T'linket Basket Work                                                   68
+  T'linket Carved Spoons                                                 85
+  T'linket War Canoe                                                     83
+  Yellowstone River, National Park                                       25
+
+
+
+
+                   FROM THE GREAT LAKES TO PUGET SOUND.
+
+
+                   "=To the doorways of the West-Wind,
+                     To the portals of the Sunset.="
+
+While, in the old world, armies have been contending for the possession
+of narrow strips of territory, in kingdoms themselves smaller than many
+single American States, and venerable _savants_ have been predicting
+the near approach of the time when the population of the world shall have
+outstripped the means of subsistence, there has arisen, between the
+headwaters of the Mississippi and the mouth of the stately Columbia, an
+imperial domain, more than three times the size of the German empire,
+and capable of sustaining upon its own soil one hundred millions of
+people. What little has been done--for it is but little,
+comparatively--toward the development of its amazing resources, has
+called into existence, on its eastern border, two great and beautiful
+cities, which have sprung up side by side on the banks of the great
+Father of Waters.
+
+It is there, at St. Paul and Minneapolis, that the traveler's journey to
+Wonderland may be said to begin. And what could be more fitting? for are
+they not wonders in themselves, presenting, as they do, the most
+astonishing picture of rapid expansion the world has ever seen?
+
+But it is not their magnitude that excites the greatest surprise. If
+there is a single newspaper reader in ignorance of the fact that the
+State census of 1885 found them with a population of 240,597? or that
+the 23,994 buildings erected within their limits since the beginning of
+1882, represent a frontage of over 100 miles and an expenditure of
+$69,895,390, or that their banking capital considerably exceeds that of
+either San Francisco, New Orleans, Cincinnati or St. Louis, it is
+through no fault of the cities themselves. But the visitor may bring
+with him a just appreciation of their size and commercial importance,
+and yet have had no conception of their beauty, nor of the abounding
+evidences of public spirit and private enterprise that will confront him
+at every turn.
+
+The position of St. Paul, at the head of navigation, and as the focus of
+the railway activity of the Northwest, commands for it an extensive
+wholesale trade, its sales aggregating, in 1885, the large sum of
+$81,420,000. The surprise with which the visitor views the stately piles
+that are the outward and visible signs of the vast commercial and
+financial interests of the city, the creation of a few brief seasons, is
+no greater than the astonishment with which he realizes the absence of
+all appearance of immaturity. In no city in the Union are the business
+quarters more solid and substantial; in none is the domestic
+architecture more attractive. Nothing is crude, nothing tentative,
+nothing transitional.
+
+Clustered around the great Falls of St. Anthony, stand those colossal
+flouring mills that have been more than ever the pride and glory of
+Minneapolis, since they enabled her to pluck from Chicago's crown one of
+the brightest of its jewels. It is a startling commentary upon the much
+vaunted supremacy of the great metropolis of the West, that, while the
+wheat attracted to its market fell gradually from 34,106,109 bushels in
+1879, to 13,265,223 bushels in 1885, the amount handled by the millers
+of Minneapolis increased, within the same period, from 7,514,364 bushels
+to 32,112,840 bushels. The mills have a total flour-manufacturing
+capacity of 33,973 barrels per day, an amount equal to the necessities
+of the three most populous States of the Union, or of one-half the
+population of Great Britain.
+
+But to turn from the romance of figures to that of song and story.
+Should the traveler have any desire to visit the far-famed falls of
+Minnehaha, it is now he should gratify it. Situated almost midway
+between the two cities, they can be easily reached, either by train,
+carriage or river steamboat. The poetic interest with which they have
+been invested by their association with the legend of Hiawatha
+constitutes but the least of their claims upon the traveler's notice;
+and, should he turn aside to visit them, not even the sublime scenery of
+Wonderland will entirely efface the memory of their laughing waters.
+
+The residents of St. Paul and Minneapolis are fortunate in having,
+within easy access, two of the most beautiful of Minnesota's ten
+thousand lakes, White Bear and Minnetonka. Justly celebrated for the
+beauty of their scenery and the excellence of their hotel and other
+accommodations, they are resorted to annually by thousands of visitors
+from far and near. Minnetonka is not inappropriately called the Saratoga
+of the Northwest; but no designation, however high-sounding or
+significant, can do justice to the exquisite beauty of its scenery or
+the sumptuousness of its hotels.
+
+It is time, however, that we were directing our steps toward that
+scarcely less luxurious hotel which is waiting to convey us to the
+fir-clad slopes of Puget Sound! While holding in honorable remembrance
+the names of Watt and Stephenson, surely posterity ought not altogether
+to forget those of the inventors of the sleeping car and dining car; for
+the railway train of early days was hardly a greater advance upon the
+old stage-coach than is the completely equipped train of to-day over its
+predecessor of even twenty-five years ago.
+
+The journey from St. Paul to Puget Sound may be said to fall into eight
+geographical divisions, with well-marked natural boundaries, and
+corresponding in the main to the divisions into which the line has been
+formed for operating purposes. The first extends to the Red River of the
+North, a distance of 275 miles, lying wholly in the State of Minnesota.
+
+The great attractions of this State are its pine forests, covering
+nearly one-half of its entire area, and its numerous beautiful lakes. Of
+the latter, there are no fewer than 215 within twenty-five miles of St.
+Paul, and they extend right through the central part of the State, on
+both sides of the railroad, to the prairie region bordering upon the Red
+River. Many of them are of exceeding beauty, especially in the district
+known as the
+
+
+                             LAKE PARK REGION,
+
+a richly diversified section of country, presenting the most charming
+scenery.
+
+Among the most famous, are Lake Minnewaska, on the Little Falls and
+Dakota division of the road, fifty-nine miles from its junction with the
+main line; Clitherall and Battle Lakes, on the Fergus Falls and Black
+Hills branch; and Detroit Lake, on the direct line to the West, 230
+miles from St. Paul. All these have fine pebbly beaches, lined with
+beautiful borders of timber, and their accommodations for all classes of
+visitors--anglers, sportsmen and families--are exceptionally good.
+
+Like all the waters of Minnesota, they teem with fine, gamey fish of
+many varieties. The accomplished editor of the _American Angler_,
+writing in his well-known journal, after a visit to the Northwest in the
+summer of 1885, stated, that, during a life of nearly a quarter of a
+century as an angler, no experience with a rod had equaled in variety
+and weight the two days' fishing he had had on Detroit Lake. Nor was Mr.
+Harris' success exceptional. A score of one hundred pounds per day on
+two rods, is, as he goes on to state, considered quite a modest record.
+
+For what is locally regarded as a good catch, we must turn to that of
+the three gentlemen who, on the afternoon of June 1st, 1885, brought in,
+as the result of less than three days' work, 603 pike, 138 black bass,
+178 rock bass, 28 cat-fish and 25 pickerel; the entire catch weighing
+2,321 pounds. This "fish story" is well authenticated. Eastern anglers
+can have no conception how full of fine fish, of many varieties, these
+Minnesota lakes are. For black and rock bass, maskalonge, pickerel,
+wall-eyed pike, and an infinite variety of smaller fish, a recent writer
+in the _American Angler_ pronounces Detroit Lake the finest fishing
+ground on the continent. Nor need any angler or sportsman--for prairie
+chickens, ducks and deer are abundant--expect to have to look to sport
+to make up for the deficiencies of accommodation; for the Hotel
+Minnesota is said, on the highest authority, to be a gem of a hostelry
+for anglers, every facility and convenience they could wish for being
+obtainable at moderate charges.
+
+The scenic attractions, also, are of a high order, the natural features
+of the surrounding country being of the most diversified character. The
+air is pure and invigorating, and hay fever and malarial diseases are
+absolutely unknown.
+
+Lake Park is another delightful resort in this region, having good
+fishing and boating within easy distance, and a first-class hotel
+adjoining the depot.
+
+Before arriving at Detroit, the traveler from St. Paul passes through
+Brainerd, the "City of the Pines." The selection of this city for the
+location of the machine shops of the railroad has given a great impetus
+to its growth; nevertheless, for deer and bear hunting, it is still one
+of the best localities in the State. There is fine fishing, too, in its
+immediate vicinity, and its hotel accommodations also are very good.
+Here it is, also, that travelers from the East, coming by way of the
+Great Lakes, join the west-bound train.
+
+The distance to Brainerd from Duluth, the point of debarkation, at the
+west end of Lake Superior, is 114 miles.
+
+The traveler, who, in 1886, visits Mr. Proctor Knott's "Zenith City of
+the Unsalted Seas," will find the straggling village of five years ago a
+busy city of 20,000 inhabitants, with abounding evidences of the
+commercial importance it has attained. By reason of the advantages
+afforded by the great waterway of the continent, for the direct shipment
+of wheat to the Eastern States or to Europe, Duluth has become almost as
+formidable a rival of Minneapolis as that city is of Chicago. It handled
+last year no fewer than 15,819,462 bushels of wheat, while its saw mills
+cut up 125,000,000 feet of lumber, and an extensive trade was also
+carried on in coal, salt and lime.
+
+A few miles distant, and connected with it by a railway whose
+construction involved the building of an exceedingly fine iron bridge,
+is the city of Superior, also with excellent terminal facilities. The
+eastern terminus of this, the Wisconsin division of the railroad, is
+Ashland, an important town and favorite summer resort on Lake Superior.
+Midway between this town and Duluth the line crosses the Brule river,
+whose excellent fishing grounds its recent opening has, for the first
+time, rendered accessible.
+
+The Brule river proper is a large stream, averaging 100 feet in width,
+of clear, cold water, flowing, its entire length, through one of the
+great forests of Wisconsin. With high banks, and free from low or marshy
+ground, it is an ideal trout stream. The best fishing on the river is to
+be had in a stretch of fourteen miles, extending six miles above, and
+eight miles below, the crossing of the Northern Pacific Railroad. The
+trout attain a large size, catches of three and four pound fish being an
+everyday occurrence. In the surrounding forest, game, including moose,
+deer, beaver and pheasant, is found in great abundance. Large quantities
+of venison were shipped hence by rail during the winter of 1885-86, the
+shipments from November 1st to December 15th alone exceeding 13,000
+pounds.
+
+[Illustration: DETROIT LAKE AND HOTEL MINNESOTA, DETROIT, MINN.]
+
+Almost equal to the exciting pleasures of the chase is that of shooting
+the Brule river rapids in a canoe. Accompanied by an experienced guide,
+the visitor performs this feat without danger; let him attempt it alone,
+and he is sure of a ducking. For the angler and sportsman, the Brule
+possesses an additional attraction in the fact, that, while most
+excellent accommodations are to be had at the railroad crossing,
+including boats, fishing tackle and guides, there is no settlement of
+any kind within a considerable distance.
+
+The line from Duluth to Brainerd follows, for many miles, the winding
+valley of the St. Louis river, through scenery for the most part stern
+and wild, yet not without an occasional suggestion of the gentler beauty
+of the far-off Youghiogheny. Between Fond du Lac and Thompson the river
+has a descent of 500 feet in a distance of twelve miles, tearing its way
+with terrific force through a tortuous, rock-bound channel. The best
+point for observing the fine effect of these impetuous rapids and
+cascades, known locally as the Dalles of the St. Louis, is near the
+twentieth mile post westward from Duluth.
+
+Pursuing its way in the direction of Brainerd, the train traverses a
+country comparatively little known. Its scanty population is engaged
+almost entirely in logging, lumber manufacturing, and hunting, the
+immense forest covering the face of the country abounding with deer,
+bear, wolves, foxes and other game.
+
+Emerging from the deep recesses of the forest, and passing swiftly
+through the lake region already referred to, we find ourselves in a
+level prairie country, and can dimly descry, in the far distance, the
+thin, dark line which another hour's ride will show to be the narrow
+fringe of timber that marks the course of the famous Red River of the
+North, that true Arimaspes, with whose golden sands thousands and tens
+of thousands have been made rich.
+
+This, then, is the renowned Red River valley, the story of whose amazing
+fertility has attracted, from older States and still older countries,
+one hundred and fifty thousand people. The greatest influx has taken
+place since 1880, the increase in population between the census of that
+year and that in the spring of 1885 being 38,719 on the Minnesota side
+of the river, and 54,918 on the Dakota side.
+
+Although there are vast tracts of land still uncultivated, the general
+appearance of the valley is that of a well-settled agricultural country.
+But this will occasion no surprise to those who remember that its annual
+wheat crop has now reached 25,000,000 bushels, and its crop of other
+cereals 15,000,000 bushels.
+
+Not a little surprise, however, is occasioned by the discovery that the
+"valley" of which the traveler has heard so much is not a valley at all,
+but a great plain, whose slope toward the river is so slight as to be
+wholly imperceptible.
+
+Where the railroad crosses the river, have sprung up the cities of
+Moorhead and Fargo, the former in Minnesota, the latter in Dakota. With
+such advantages of situation as they possess, and with the days of
+booms, with all their unhealthy excitement and fictitious values, gone,
+never, it is to be hoped, to return, these cities must continue to
+increase in commercial importance, with the development of the rich
+country surrounding them.
+
+Fargo is, indeed, the largest city in the entire Territory of Dakota,
+and will probably retain its position as such for many years to come.
+
+It is needless to repeat here the oft-told story of Dakota's marvelous
+growth. Time was when it was capable of being wrought up into a mosaic
+of wondrous interest and beauty; but, with the multiplication of
+agencies for giving it publicity, its charm, for the present generation
+at least, has passed away. It will, nevertheless, afford the historian
+of the nineteenth century material for one of the most interesting and
+instructive chapters of his work.
+
+Writing, in 1828, his "Principles of Population," the great historian of
+Europe said: "The gradual and continuous progress of the European race
+toward the Rocky Mountains has the solemnity of a providential event: it
+is like a deluge of men rising unabatedly, and daily driven onward by
+the hand of God." But at that time the State of Illinois, but half way
+toward the Rocky Mountains and one-third of the way to the Pacific
+Ocean, was almost the limit of its mighty flow. Wisconsin, with no
+noteworthy settlements of its own, formed part of the Territory of
+Michigan; Iowa was an altogether vacant region, without any form of
+organized government; while other great States of to-day were still
+either mere parts of the Louisiana purchase, with as yet no separate
+identity, or were comprised within the then far-extending territory of
+the republic of Mexico.
+
+The traveler to the Northwest, by the Northern Pacific Railroad,
+traverses that section of the far-extending dominion of the American
+people that was the last to be overspread by that great tide of
+civilization. He sees its evidences in the happy and prosperous
+homesteads that dot the fertile plains of Dakota, and nestle under the
+sheltering bluffs of the winding valleys of Montana; he is able to bear
+witness, also, to its having penetrated the fastnesses of the Rocky
+Mountains, and converted the hillsides of Eastern Washington and the
+fair lands of Oregon into smiling wheat fields and fruitful orchards.
+
+But, notwithstanding the hundreds of flourishing settlements scattered
+along the great highway of travel, with here and there a goodly town or
+city, he can not but wonder at the apparent sparseness of population
+when he remembers that one and a half millions of people have their
+homes between the Great Lakes and Puget Sound.
+
+But let him consider the vast extent of the country; let him call to
+mind that Dakota, with her 415,664 inhabitants, has yet 230 acres of
+land to every man, woman and child within her borders, her population
+averaging less than three to the square mile; that the density of
+population in Oregon and Washington is but two and one-half and two to
+the square mile, respectively; while both Montana and Idaho have
+considerably more square miles than they have inhabitants.
+
+The county of Cass, which stretches westward from Fargo, is one of the
+best settled sections of the Northwest, there being no land whatever
+subject to entry. It contains some of the largest wheat farms in the
+world, and it has produced more than one wheat crop of 5,000,000
+bushels. This county has an actual wealth of over $20,000,000, and, with
+its 120 school houses and numberless churches, it may be taken as
+admirably illustrating both the capabilities of the country and the
+character of the people who are building it up.
+
+At Dalrymple, eighteen miles from Fargo, and at Casselton, two miles
+farther west, are the
+
+
+                            GREAT WHEAT FARMS
+
+of Mr. Oliver Dalrymple, comprising some 50,000 acres. Continuing
+westward, we pass, in rapid succession, various flourishing settlements,
+among them being Valley City, on the Sheyenne river, the judicial seat
+of Barnes county.
+
+Presently the train descends into the valley of the James, or Dakota,
+river, and the prosperous city of Jamestown is reached.
+
+From this point a branch line extends northward, ninety miles, to
+Minnewaukan, at the west end of Devil's Lake. This remarkable body of
+salt water, with its deeply indented and richly wooded shores, where the
+briny odor of the ocean mingles with the fragrance of the prairie
+flower, is surrounded by some of the best farming lands in Dakota. Its
+attractions for the tourist, angler and sportsman have obtained wide
+recognition, fish and game being very plentiful, the climate highly
+salubrious, the scenery picturesque, and the hotel accommodations good.
+The James river is said to be the longest unnavigable river on the
+continent, if not in the world, its flow, for hundreds of miles, being
+distinguished by scarcely any perceptible increase of volume.
+
+Crossing a high table land, 1,850 feet above sea-level, and 950 feet
+higher than the Red river at Fargo, and known geographically as the
+Coteaux de Missouri, the train rapidly pursues its way past various
+large and well-managed farms to Bismarck, the capital of the Territory.
+
+This city has long commanded an important trade with various settlements
+on the Upper Missouri, the steamboats employed having transported as
+much as 45,000,000 pounds of freight within a single brief period of
+navigation. It is the shipping and distributing point of a vast area
+whose only railroad facilities are those afforded by the great
+transcontinental line that here crosses the Missouri river. With the
+various important settlements that have been established in that great
+tract of country, Bismarck has either stage or steamboat communication.
+While, however, river navigation is limited to a comparatively short
+season, the stages run regularly all the year round, having even been
+known not to miss a single trip, or to be more than a few hours late,
+during an entire winter.
+
+But it is not the Fargos, the Jamestowns or the Bismarcks with which the
+tourist chiefly concerns himself. They attract his attention only
+because of the evidence they afford of the development and stability of
+the country, and the enterprise of the people, and he is far more
+interested in the crossing of the Missouri river, than in either of the
+two cities that frown at each other across its turbid waters.
+
+The bridge, by which the railroad is carried across the great river,
+here 2,800 feet in breadth, although 3,500 miles from the Gulf of
+Mexico, is a structure of immense strength, and not more substantial
+than it is graceful. It consists of three spans, each of 400 feet, and
+two approach spans, each of 113 feet, with a long stretch of strongly
+built trestle work over the gently sloping west bank of the river.
+
+Here the train runs into Mandan, a pleasant little city, nestling under
+low ranges of hills which encompass it on three sides. This is the
+terminus of the Missouri and Dakota divisions of the road. The change
+from Central to Mountain time is made at this point, and the west-bound
+traveler sets his watch back one hour.
+
+The country west of the Missouri river presents an entirely different
+appearance from that through which the tourist has been traveling since
+he entered the Territory at Fargo. It is more diversified; its numerous
+streams, with handsome groves of cottonwood upon their banks, meandering
+through pleasant valleys, clothed, where still uncultivated, with that
+nutritious bunch grass, which, but a few short years ago, made them the
+favorite feeding grounds of the buffalo. The vast beds of lignite coal
+that underlie this portion of the Territory crop out at various points,
+twelve car loads being mined daily at Sims, 35 miles west of Mandan, for
+shipment by rail. The most important settlements on this division of the
+road are Gladstone and Dickinson.
+
+Twenty miles west of the latter town, the line enters the singular and
+picturesque region known as the Bad Lands of the Little Missouri. For a
+full hour the train pursues its way through scenery of which the whole
+world is not known to afford any counterpart.
+
+The product of natural forces, still working to the same end, the
+picture that meets the astonished gaze of the traveler, suggests, where
+it does not utterly bewilder, either supernatural agency or the
+operation of laws whose reign has ceased. Reasonable hypotheses all
+failing, one's imagination connects the weird and mysterious scene with
+some early geologic epoch when, perchance under the brooding darkness of
+night, the yet plastic earth was tortured by some wild spirit of Caprice
+into the fantastic forms in which we see it to-day. But evidences of
+intelligent design are not altogether wanting, and we turn from mounds
+of wonderful regularity and symmetry of form, standing like Egyptian
+pyramids, to reproductions of the frowning battlements of Gibraltar or
+Ehrenbreitstein, or the dome and towers of some great cathedral.
+
+Marvelous as they are, however, these forms and outlines excite even
+less astonishment than the wealth of coloring in which they are arrayed.
+Composed largely of clay, solidified by pressure, and converted into
+terra-cotta by the slow combustion of underlying masses of lignite, each
+dome and pyramid and mimic castle is encircled with chromatic bands
+presenting vivid and startling contrasts. Huge petrifactions and vast
+masses of scoria contribute to the weirdness of the scene, and, as if to
+complete its plutonic appearance, smoke goes up unceasingly from
+unquenchable subterranean fires.
+
+It is a mistake to suppose that these lands are worthless for
+agricultural or stock-raising purposes. The valleys and ravines are
+covered with nutritious grasses, and thousands of cattle may be seen
+grazing where the buffalo and other herbivorous wild animals were wont
+to roam in days gone by. The term "Bad Lands" is a careless and
+incomplete translation of the designation bestowed upon the country by
+the early French _voyageurs_, who described it as "_mauvaises terres
+pour traverser_."
+
+At the crossing of the Little Missouri, the Marquis de Mores, a wealthy
+young French nobleman, has established the headquarters of an extensive
+stock raising and dressed meat shipping business.
+
+From this point, Medora, excursions may be made to Cedar Cañon, one of
+the most interesting localities in the Bad Lands; or to the burning
+mine, where may be seen, raging, perhaps the most extensive of the
+subterranean fires of the entire region. It is also a good point from
+which to start out on hunting expeditions, large game being by no means
+exterminated.
+
+Sixteen miles beyond the Little Missouri, the train passes Sentinel
+Butte, a lofty peak rising precipitously from the plain on the south
+side of the railroad. One mile more and the Montana boundary is crossed,
+at an elevation of 2,840 feet above sea-level.
+
+In crossing the great Territory of Dakota, the tourist has traveled 367
+miles; in traversing that of Montana, he performs a journey of no less
+than 800 miles, almost equivalent to the distance from New York to
+Indianapolis. Fortunately, the luxurious appointments of the train
+render weariness well nigh impossible, and the trip hourly becomes more
+interesting and enjoyable.
+
+At Glendive, 692 miles from St. Paul, the road enters the valley of the
+Yellowstone, the windings of which famous river it follows, more or less
+closely, for 340 miles.
+
+The valley, from five to ten miles in width, is inclosed by high bluffs
+of clay and sandstone, their curious formations occasionally reminding
+the traveler of the Bad Lands, though they have but little variety of
+color.
+
+If the Red River of the North may justly be regarded as the true
+Arimaspes, the Yellowstone may, with equal propriety, be designated the
+modern Amphrysus. It is upon its banks and those of its tributaries that
+there has been developed, since the opening of the Northern Pacific
+Railroad, that vast grazing interest which has given Montana as great a
+reputation for its stock as Dakota has for its wheat.
+
+For many years,--up to and including the winter of 1881-82,--this was
+the finest buffalo hunting country on the continent. But the slaughter
+that season was enormous, 250,000 hides being shipped East, principally
+from Miles City. Few have been seen since that time. There are hunters
+who believe that small herds might still be found north of the
+international boundary; but, so far as the United States is concerned,
+the buffalo is practically extinct. There is, however, a small herd in
+the National Park. Safe from the hunter's deadly repeater, they will
+probably multiply rapidly, as it may be supposed that they will soon
+know instinctively the limits within which they are unmolested.
+
+Miles City, a few years ago the principal rendezvous of the hunter, is
+now the great resort of the grazier and cowboy, it being the metropolis
+of the stock interest of the Territory.
+
+The development of this interest within recent years has been as rapid
+as that of wheat raising in Dakota, and the economist who should turn to
+the United States census reports for 1880 for the present condition of
+any considerable section of the Northwest would be led seriously astray.
+
+In 1880, Montana contained 490,000 cattle and 520,000 sheep. According
+to a recent report of the Governor of the Territory, it contains, at the
+present time, 900,000 cattle, 1,200,000 sheep, and 120,000 horses. The
+grazing interests of the West are moving steadily toward Eastern
+Montana; for, so rapidly do cattle thrive on the nutritious grasses of
+these northern valleys, that a yearling steer is worth $10 more in
+Montana than in Texas.
+
+Glendive, already mentioned as the point at which the railroad enters
+the Yellowstone valley, is second only to Miles City in importance as a
+shipping and distributing point. It is also a divisional terminus of the
+railroad.
+
+Two miles west of Miles City is Fort Keogh, one of the largest and most
+beautiful military posts in the United States. It was established in
+1877 by Gen. Nelson A. Miles, as a means of holding in check the warlike
+Sioux. There are but few Indians to be seen now along the line of the
+railroad, and those are engaged in agricultural and industrial pursuits.
+The extinction of the buffalo has rendered the Indian much more amenable
+to the civilizing influences brought to bear upon him than he formerly
+was, and very fair crops of grain are now being raised at the various
+agencies. At the Devil's Lake Agency, 60,000 bushels of wheat were
+raised in 1885, and purchased by the United States Government at $1 per
+hundred pounds. The Crows, along the northern border of whose
+reservation--nearly as large as the State of Massachusetts--the road
+runs for two hundred miles, are said to be the richest nation in the
+world, in proportion to their numbers, their wealth aggregating $3,500
+per head. This, however, is due to the natural increase of their live
+stock, chiefly ponies, rather than to their own industry and thrift.
+
+Out amid the solitudes of the far Northwest--for it must not be supposed
+that the entire country is a succession of settlements--it is wonderful
+with what interest the traveler regards that trivial event of daily
+occurrence, the meeting of the east-bound train. But, as he peers
+through the car window, or stands out on the platform, in critical
+survey of its passengers, it probably does not occur to him that he is
+as much an object of curiosity to them as they are, each of them, to
+him. He represents the far East of this great continent, they the far
+West. He, perchance, is making his first trip to the Pacific slope, they
+theirs to the Great Lakes or the Atlantic coast. Among them, however,
+may be distinguished merry groups of returning tourists, while,
+reclining in a luxurious Pullman car, or tempting dyspepsia with the
+rich and varied dainties of the dining car, may be seen one of the early
+settlers of California, a weather-beaten pioneer, who reached the
+Pacific slope by way of the Horn, twenty years ahead of the first
+transcontinental railway, and now goes east, by the Wonderland route, to
+revisit the scenes of his childhood.
+
+[Illustration: VIEWS OF "OLD FAITHFUL" GEYSER, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.]
+
+Twenty-nine miles east of Billings, the next divisional terminus and
+important trading point on the line of the road, the traveler will
+observe, rising from the right bank of the river, a huge mass of
+sandstone, interesting as bearing upon its face the name of William
+Clarke, cut in the rock by the veteran explorer himself, when he visited
+the locality in 1806. He will, about the same time, be able dimly to
+descry the peaks of the Big Snow Mountains, which, at first scarcely
+distinguishable from the fleecy clouds that hang around them,
+subsequently loom up grandly, constituting one of the most beautiful
+pieces of scenery in the Northwest.
+
+The disciple of Izaak Walton will not have traveled 225 miles along the
+banks of the Yellowstone without having seen many an inviting spot for
+indulgence in what his great master called the most calm, quiet and
+innocent of all recreations. His arrival, therefore, at Billings, the
+largest town on the upper river, and the metropolis--notwithstanding
+that it has a population of only 2,000--of a region larger than Maine,
+South Carolina, West Virginia or Indiana, affords a not unfitting
+opportunity for a brief reference to the incomparable trout fishing
+afforded by the numerous streams accessible from points on the Montana
+and Yellowstone divisions of the road.
+
+The Yellowstone river itself, west of Billings, has no superior as a
+trout stream. It contains trout of four distinct varieties, and fishing
+is so easy as at times to be in danger of losing its charm. The
+individual scores of various tourists, reported in the _American Angler_
+during the summer and fall of 1885, and not containing any that were
+phenomenally large, averaged twenty-five trout per hour for each rod, a
+record with which the most ardent angler ought surely to be satisfied. A
+majority of these scores were made in the vicinity of Livingston, near
+which town another visitor is reported to have caught twenty-one fine,
+large trout "after supper," while two others are stated to have brought
+in 160 as the result of "a day's sport." The Yellowstone also contains a
+gamey fish known to local anglers as grayling, but pronounced by Mr. W.
+C. Harris to be the whitefish (_Corregonus tullibee_). That gentleman
+refers, in a recent article, to the abundance, in these waters, of the
+celebrated "cut-throat" trout, whose size and abundance, in conjunction
+with the picturesqueness of its habitat, will, he adds, when generally
+known, "make a visit to the Yellowstone imperative to the angler who
+aspires to a well-rounded life as a rodster." Among other waters,
+mention may be made of Rosebud Lake, a beautiful spot reached by wagon
+from Billings, where the trout fishing is declared to be splendid;
+Little Rosebud Creek, near Stillwater, where eighty-seven trout are
+reported to have been caught in four hours with a single rod; Prior
+Creek, near Huntley; Mission Creek, twelve miles east of Livingston; and
+Sixteen-Mile Creek, sixteen miles from Townsend, all of which are said
+by visitors to afford excellent sport.
+
+It must not, however, be supposed that the angler enjoys a monopoly of
+sport in this country of varied attractions; for grouse and ducks are
+plentiful, as are also, on the mountain ranges, deer, elk and antelope.
+
+Passing Springdale, where the traveler will observe hacks in readiness
+to convey visitors to Hunter's Hot Springs, two and one-half miles
+distant, the train approaches, amid scenery increasing in grandeur, the
+little city of Livingston. Whatever interest may, in the near future,
+attach to this place as a resort of the gentle brotherhood from all
+parts of the continent, it will certainly fall short of that which will
+belong to it as the gateway of that world-renowned region, the
+
+
+                        YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.
+
+"Situated," to quote the distinguished geologist, Professor John Muir,
+of California, who recently visited it, "in the heart of the Rocky
+Mountains, on the broad, rugged summit of the continent, amid snow and
+ice, and dark, shaggy forests, where the great rivers take their rise,
+it surpasses in wakeful, exciting interest any other region yet
+discovered on the face of the globe." While it contains the most
+beautiful and sublime of mountain, lake and forest scenery, its fame
+rests, not upon that, but upon the extraordinary assemblage of the
+curious products of Nature's caprice, and the infinitely wonderful
+manifestations of almost extinct forms of her energy that are found
+within its borders. Approached by a branch of the Northern Pacific
+Railroad, extending southward from Livingston to its northern boundary,
+and the only railroad within one hundred miles, this remarkable region
+has, by a judicious expenditure of public money and by admirable
+individual and corporate enterprise, been rendered so easy of
+exploration that the tourist may within the brief period of five days
+visit all its most interesting points.
+
+So majestically do the snow-capped mountains tower above the lesser
+hills that inclose the charming valley whose various windings the
+railroad follows, from Livingston to Cinnabar, that the traveler can
+scarcely believe that still more magnificent scenery lies beyond. And
+truly the cloud-piercing Emigrant's Peak, with its famous mining gulch;
+the yet loftier Electric Peak; the colossal Sphinx; and that most
+singular formation, the Devil's Slide, form the most fitting
+introduction that the human mind can conceive to the wonders of the
+National Park.
+
+Conveyed by an excellently equipped Concord coach from the terminus of
+the railroad to the hotel at Mammoth Hot Springs, six miles distant, the
+tourist finds himself surrounded by all the conveniences of modern hotel
+life.
+
+And within full view of the hotel, from which they are distant but a few
+hundred yards, are the exquisitely filigreed and richly colored terraces
+formed by the Mammoth Hot Springs, not the least of the wonders of this
+famous region. Here one hardly knows whether to admire more the
+delicacy of the formation or that of the coloring, the former not being
+excelled by that of the finest lace, while the latter surpasses, both in
+brilliancy, harmony, and subtle gradations, any chromatic effects known
+to exist beyond the limits of this enchanted ground.
+
+The keenest interest of the newly arrived tourist, however, usually
+centres in those constantly recurring evidences of tremendous force, the
+geysers. With few and unimportant exceptions, these are found within the
+limits of certain distinctly marked areas, known as the upper, middle,
+lower and Norris basins, to which one or two days' time is devoted,
+according to circumstances. The most celebrated of the geysers--those
+with whose names the world has been made familiar by the pen, brush or
+camera of author or artist--are in the upper basin. Here are found the
+Giant and Giantess, the Castle and Grotto, the Bee Hive, the Splendid
+and the Grand. Here, too, is Old Faithful, the constancy of whose hourly
+eruption makes it impossible for even the most hurried visitor to the
+upper basin to leave without witnessing at least one display of its
+tremendous energy.
+
+[Illustration: MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS HOTEL--YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.]
+
+The reader, who, not having visited the National Park, has yet gazed
+into some of the profound gorges to be found in the great mountain
+ranges of the far West, will read with astonishment, if not with
+incredulity, that there is but one cañon in the world,--the Grand Cañon
+of the Yellowstone. Perhaps slightly exceeded in depth, as it certainly
+is in gloom, it is yet made to stand pre-eminent among the natural
+wonders of the world by the majesty of its cataract and the gorgeous
+blazonry of its walls. To say that the former--no mere silver ribbon of
+spray, but a fall of great volume--is a little more than twice the
+height of Niagara, would, by means of a familiar comparison, enable
+almost any one to form a not altogether inadequate conception of its
+grandeur. But for the matchless adornment of its walls, we have no
+available comparison; naught but itself can be its parallel. One great
+writer describes it as being hung with rainbows, like glorious banners.
+Another, borrowing from Mr. Ruskin, likens it to a great cathedral,
+with painted windows, and full of treasures of illuminated manuscript.
+But, as we take our stand on the brink of the Falls, with twelve miles
+of sculptured rock spread out before us, rising from 1,500 to 2,000 feet
+in height, and all aflame with glowing color, we have to acknowledge,
+with a distinguished writer and a no less celebrated artist, that,
+neither by the most cunningly wrought fabric of language, nor the most
+skillful manipulation of color, is it possible to create in the mind a
+conception answering to this sublime reality. For countless ages, frost
+and snow, heat and vapor, lightning and rain, torrent and glacier, have
+wrought upon that mysterious rock, evolving from its iron, its sulphur,
+its arsenic, its lime and its lava, the glorious apparel in which it
+stands arrayed. And the wondrous fabrication is still going on. The
+bewildered traveler would scarcely be surprised to see the gorgeous
+spectacle fade from his vision like a dream: but its texture is
+continually being renewed; the giant forces are ever at work; still do
+they--
+
+            "=Sit at the busy loom of time and ply,
+              Weaving for God the garment thou seest Him by.="
+
+For the minor wonders of this world of marvels, the formations of
+geyserite and the petrified forests, Tower and Gibbon Falls and the
+cliffs of volcanic glass, the caldrons of boiling mud and transparent
+pools of sapphire blue, the reader is referred to special guides to the
+Park.
+
+It only remains to be stated that there is regularly established
+transportation daily between all the principal points, that the
+distances are not fatiguing, that the charges are reasonable, and the
+equipment everything that could be desired.
+
+The angler need scarcely be reminded that this is the far-famed region
+where the juxtaposition of streams of hot and cold water enables him to
+cook his fish as fast as he can catch them, without moving from his seat
+or taking them off the hook!
+
+
+                              WESTWARD STILL.
+
+Resuming his westward journey at Livingston, the traveler finds himself
+ascending the first of the two great mountain barriers that had to be
+surmounted by the engineers of the Northern Pacific Railroad. By a grade
+of 116 feet to the mile, the line reaches, twelve miles from Livingston,
+an elevation of 5,565 feet above sea-level. Here it is carried under the
+crest of the range by a tunnel 3,610 feet in length, from which it
+emerges into a fine, rocky cañon, at the western portal of which is the
+military post of Fort Ellis. A few minutes more, and the train runs into
+Bozeman, a beautifully situated and flourishing little city of twenty
+years' growth. Few cities can boast of more magnificent scenery,
+majestic snow-capped ranges standing out against the sky on every side.
+
+Westward for thirty miles extends the rich and fertile Gallatin valley.
+It is no uncommon thing to get forty bushels of hard spring wheat, or
+sixty bushels of fall wheat, to the acre in this valley, and its barley
+is of such superior excellence as to be in great demand for malting
+purposes at Milwaukee and other Eastern cities.
+
+Twenty-nine miles west of Bozeman, are Gallatin City, and the bright
+little town of Three Forks, commanding the valleys of the Madison and
+Jefferson, the agricultural lands of which, now being brought under
+cultivation, are not inferior to those of the older settled valley of
+the Gallatin.
+
+Four miles more, and the tourist comes upon a point of considerable
+geographical interest, the three mountain streams just mentioned pouring
+their waters into a common channel, to form the Missouri river. It is
+through a rocky cañon, abounding in wild and magnificent scenery, that
+the greatest river on the continent enters upon its long course of 4,450
+miles. For nearly fifty miles, the line follows its various windings,
+until finally the river runs away northward through that profound chasm
+known as the Grand Cañon of the Missouri, or the Gates of the Rocky
+Mountains. Visitors to Helena will find an excursion to the Grand Cañon,
+occupying not necessarily more than two days' time, one of the most
+delightful experiences of their transcontinental journey.
+
+The most important town between Bozeman and Helena, is Townsend, the
+shipping and distributing point for no inconsiderable portion of one of
+the best counties in Montana. It has daily communication by coach with
+White Sulphur Springs, a health resort of great local repute. This
+coming rival of older and hitherto more famous spas, lies in a beautiful
+valley, 5,070 feet above sea-level, and surrounded by the grandest of
+Rocky Mountain scenery. Its accommodations for visitors of all classes
+are most excellent, including, as they do, one of the best hotels in the
+Territory. Six miles distant are Castle Mountain and Crystal Cave, the
+latter a cavern of great extent, having twenty-three separate chambers,
+full of curious and beautiful stalactitic and stalagmitic formations.
+The town, mountain and cavern were all fully described and admirably
+illustrated in the _West Shore Magazine_ for July, 1885.
+
+Not so much by way of tribute, either to its own beauty or that of its
+situation, as in recognition of its wealth, its commercial importance
+and the commanding position it has so long occupied in the mining world,
+Helena, the capital of the Territory, is called the Queen of the
+Mountains. Situated on the eastern slope of the continental divide,
+1,155 miles from St. Paul, it became a great distributing point and
+financial centre, even when hundreds of miles of mountain and prairie
+separated it from the nearest railroad. Dependent upon the Missouri
+river for its commercial intercourse with the world, it was in a state
+of well-nigh complete isolation during the greater part of every year.
+Under other conditions, this comparative isolation would have stunted
+its growth and cramped the energies of its people. But with the assured
+product of their labor such a commodity as gold, with its universality
+of demand and stability of value, the sturdy settlers in Last Chance
+Gulch had always the most powerful of incentives to restless energy.
+With the steadily increasing production of the precious metals, if not
+in its own immediate vicinity, at least in the country it dominated,
+Helena grew rich, until now it claims to be the wealthiest city of its
+size in the United States.
+
+It was on the afternoon of the 15th of July, 1864, that a party of four
+miners, weary and sick at heart, pitched their tents in that
+desolate-looking gulch where now stands this flourishing city.
+Disappointed at not being able to secure claims in the then prosperous
+camp of Virginia City, and reduced to great extremity, they regarded the
+little gulch on the Prickly Pear as their "last chance." Finding gold in
+paying quantities, they resolved to settle down; and it is said, that,
+before two years had elapsed, each of them was worth $50,000.
+
+In the meantime, the little camp in what was thenceforward known as Last
+Chance Gulch had attracted miners from all parts of the Rocky Mountains.
+It is stated, in a recent official publication of the Territory, that
+the gulch yielded $30,000,000 during the first three seasons it was
+worked; but these figures so far exceed the popular estimate, that they
+are repeated only under reserve. The present annual production is said
+to be about $50,000. It would seem to the visitor as though every square
+foot of ground had been dug up, and, if it be his first experience of a
+placer mining district, its appearance will strike him as singularly
+novel.
+
+The romance of mining is well illustrated by the story of the citizen of
+Helena who was digging out a cellar to his house, when a passing
+stranger offered to remove the pile of earth that was being heaped up in
+the roadway, and promised to return with one-half of whatever dust he
+might obtain by the washing to which he proposed to submit it.
+Permission granted and the earth removed, the citizen thought no more of
+the matter. Great, therefore, was his astonishment when, a few days
+later, the half-forgotten face of the stranger appeared at the door, and
+he was handed, as his share of the yield of that unpromising dirt, the
+equivalent of $650.
+
+Possibly, however, a story involving only a paltry sum of three figures,
+may not answer to the reader's conception of the romantic. It does not
+excite his imagination. He expects to read of millions. If so, let us
+turn to the story of the miner, who, confident that he was the possessor
+of a valuable claim, held on to it in spite of the most adverse
+circumstances, hiring himself out in winter that he might have a little
+money wherewith to work upon his claim in summer, until, at last, after
+eight years of indomitable perseverance and patient toil, he was able to
+sell his property for $2,250,000; or that of the weary and penniless
+wanderer, who, having tramped all the way from Nevada, began a toilsome
+search, to be continued through much suffering and privation for several
+years, but destined to be rewarded at last by the discovery of one of
+the richest veins of gold in the Territory, a vein that has yielded, up
+to the present time, $4,000,000 worth of gold.
+
+The tourist will find an hour's chat with an old-timer an interesting
+and not altogether unprofitable exercise, albeit he may find it hard to
+discriminate between statements that he may venture to repeat and those
+made for his especial benefit as a tenderfoot.
+
+He need not, however, discredit such stories as that a four-mule team
+once hauled to Fort Benton, for transportation down the Missouri river,
+two and one-half tons of gold, valued at $1,500,000; nor yet, that in
+the early days potatoes were worth fifty cents per pound, and flour one
+dollar, or that oranges were sold at a dollar each, and small pineapples
+at seven dollars. These are facts not more startling than many others
+that might be quoted. In the mining world, at least, truth is positively
+stranger than fiction.
+
+[Illustration: YELLOWSTONE RIVER, NATIONAL PARK.]
+
+The annual production of the precious metals in Montana has increased
+enormously within recent years, doubling itself between 1880 and 1882,
+and trebling between 1882 and 1884. The annual output now approaches
+$30,000,000, and the Territory stands at the head of the gold-producing
+regions of the world, notwithstanding that upward of $200,000,000 worth
+has been extracted from its soil.
+
+Among the many famous mines on the eastern slope of the mountains are
+the Drum Lumon, shipping $80,000 worth of bullion per month, of which
+fully one-half may be set down as profit; the Gloster, shipping $50,000
+worth per month; the Whitlach Union, long the most celebrated gold mine
+in the Territory; those of Red Mountain, said to be the most important
+undeveloped mineral field in the United States; the Clark's Fork,
+bordering on the National Park, and now yielding, and with no railroad
+facilities, 855 tons of ore per day; those of the Helena Mining and
+Reduction Company at Wickes, reached by a branch of the Northern Pacific
+Railroad from Prickly Pear Junction, and known to have shipped as much
+as $125,000 worth of ore in a single month; and the Lexington, which has
+produced silver ore averaging in assay value from $15,000 to $20,000 per
+ton. Visitors to the New Orleans Exposition of 1884-85 will remember the
+magnificent exhibits from the last-mentioned mine, as also those from
+the Cable and Drum Lumon mines, the latter including one solid chunk of
+high-grade ore weighing 1,715 pounds.
+
+The most valuable gold nugget ever found in Montana is said to have been
+worth about $3,200. There is a nugget in the vault of the First National
+Bank at Helena, weighing 47.7 ounces, and valued at $945.80. But the
+most interesting sight in the city is, undoubtedly, the process of
+assaying at the United States Assay Office, where may also be seen those
+marvelously adjusted and delicately graduated scales, by which the
+weight of even an eye-lash can be exactly determined.
+
+The next stage of the traveler's journey westward from Helena lies
+across
+
+
+                  THE MAIN RANGE OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.
+
+It is by way of the Mullan Pass--so named from the fact of Lieut. John
+Mullan, U. S. A., having built a wagon road through it in 1867, to
+connect Fort Benton, Mont., with Fort Walla Walla, W. T.,--that the
+railroad is carried over the continental divide. The highest elevation
+of the pass itself is 5,855 feet; but, by the construction of a tunnel
+3,850 feet in length, the line was made to reach the western slope
+without attaining a higher elevation than 5,547 feet.
+
+It is not until Butler is reached, thirteen miles from Helena, that
+either the scenery or the construction of the road calls for special
+notice. But at that point the scenery becomes exceedingly picturesque,
+the rocks towering above the pines and spruce like the ruins of some
+ancient stronghold. From now on, too, the tourist will find constant
+employment in observing how the gigantic barriers, which seem to forbid
+all further progress, are, one after another, overcome.
+
+Amid scenery increasing in wildness and grandeur, the train pursues its
+tortuous course; through Iron Ridge Tunnel, near which the track forms
+an almost perfect letter S; across innumerable ravines; along rocky
+shelves and through deep cuttings, until at last it enters the eastern
+portal of the Mullan Tunnel. A few minutes later the traveler is looking
+out upon the grassy hills and pleasant valleys of the Pacific slope, the
+approach to the tunnel from the west presenting a singular contrast to
+the savage grandeur that distinguishes the approach from the east.
+
+Following the valley of the Little Blackfoot, the train presently
+arrives at Garrison, where passengers desirous of visiting the most
+flourishing mining city on the American continent, if not in the world,
+must change cars.
+
+"The most flourishing mining city on the American continent, if not in
+the world!" exclaims the reader. Even so; and yet we are not in Nevada,
+nor yet in Colorado; and, besides, the former is about played out; and,
+as for Leadville, every one remembers the disasters that overtook her,
+culminating, as they did, in the failure of all her four banks. The city
+is Butte, that, at the last United States census, had a population of
+only 3,363, but now claims six times that number, and has a monthly
+mining pay-roll of $620,000.
+
+The line from Garrison runs through the beautiful Deer Lodge valley, in
+which are many fine farms. Deer Lodge City, the judicial seat of the
+county, is pleasantly situated 4,546 feet above sea-level. Being well
+laid out, it presents, with its wide streets and handsome public
+buildings, an exceedingly attractive appearance.
+
+It is at the head of this valley, on the western slope of the main range
+of the Rocky Mountains, and fifteen miles from the Pipestone Pass, that
+there has been witnessed, during the last three or four years, that
+rapid growth of population and wealth that is without parallel, even in
+the marvelous annals of mining. Here, encompassed on three sides by
+lofty ranges of mountains, Butte pours forth the smoke of its
+innumerable furnaces; for not only is its production of silver so great
+that it has come to be designated the "Silver City," but its copper
+mines are such as to give employment to the most extensive smelting
+works in the United States. Its total production during 1885, valued at
+$15,000,000, viz., $5,000,000 worth of bullion and $10,000,000 worth of
+copper matte, was twice that of Utah, and three times that of Nevada. It
+also exceeded that of the whole of California, or the combined
+production of Idaho, New Mexico and Arizona.
+
+The leading silver mines of the district are the Alice, Moulton,
+Lexington and Silver Bow, which alone employ 210 stamps and produce 230
+tons of ore daily. The magnificent appliances of the Alice mine,
+including the great Cornish pump that cost $40,000, are the wonder of
+every visitor. The process of reduction, here as elsewhere, is somewhat
+complex, especially in the case of the baser ores, being in part
+chemical and in part mechanical. It involves the crushing of the ore to
+powder, under the pressure of enormous bars of iron, weighing 900 pounds
+each, and known as "stamps," and its subsequent roasting in large,
+hollow cylinders, salt being largely employed in the former, and
+quicksilver in the latter, stage of the operation. The roasting mills of
+the Alice mines treat 100 tons of ore per day, and their bullion
+product approaches $100,000 per month.
+
+The great Lexington property, which has produced $1,000,000 per annum
+for four years, is owned by a French company. It claims to be the most
+complete mine in the entire West, and it is certainly one of the richest
+and most extensive.
+
+The Moulton and Silver Bow have a daily capacity of forty and thirty
+tons of ore respectively. They are magnificent properties, well
+developed and exceedingly productive. The former makes the proud boast
+of working its ore to a higher percentage of its value than any other
+mill in the district.
+
+But it is the copper mines and smelters that represent the largest
+capital; give employment to the greatest number of men; have the largest
+production, both in tonnage and aggregate value; and, it may be added,
+make the most smoke.
+
+At the head of the rich and powerful companies engaged in this industry,
+stands the Anaconda,--its mine at Butte, the greatest copper property in
+America; its smelting works, at the neighboring town of Anaconda, the
+largest of their kind in the world. Sold, five years ago, for an amount
+that would not now be more than sufficient to pay its employés a week's
+wages, its property is roughly estimated to be worth $15,000,000. With
+certain contemplated additions to its smelting capacity, it will handle
+daily 1,200 tons of ore, yielding 180 tons of matte, or 108 tons of pure
+copper. Its entire machinery run by water-power, it yet requires for its
+furnaces no less than 180 cords of wood per day; in view of which
+enormous consumption it is stated to have recently let a contract for
+300,000 cords, representing upward of $1,000,000. Second only to this
+gigantic concern, is the Parrott Company, whose total matte output for
+1884 was 14,856,323 pounds, containing 9,324,805 pounds of pure copper,
+valued, including its silver contents, at about $1,250,000. With largely
+increased capacity, its production of pure copper will probably have
+reached 15,000,000 pounds in the year just drawing to a close. Among
+other leading companies, may be mentioned the Montana, owning some of
+the richest and most steadily productive mining property in process of
+development; Clark's Colusa, said to have in sight, above the 300-foot
+level, at least 150,000 tons of valuable ore; and the Bell and Colorado,
+two of the richest copper-silver mines in the district.
+
+So much for the mines and smelting works of Butte. What of the city
+itself? Briefly, it may be said to be a typical Western town, as seen in
+flush times; nothing too big for it, nothing too good; its quivering
+energy finding expression, now in the erection of a $150,000 court
+house, and now in that of the finest opera house on the Pacific slope,
+outside of San Francisco; its business enterprise filling magnificent
+stores with costly goods, suited to the tastes, pocket-books and
+spending proclivities of a community that on last Christmas eve spent
+$6,000 in presents in a single one of its stores.
+
+[Illustration: FALLS OF THE GIBBON RIVER, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.]
+
+There are several good trout streams in the vicinity of Butte, and it is
+pleasant to know that, in a city whose amusements are mainly of a very
+different character, there are those who know how to handle the rod.
+
+Proceeding westward from Garrison, the traveler will have some fine
+views of mountain scenery, including the snow-clad peaks of Mount
+Powell. Drummond, twenty-one miles west, is the station for the rich
+mining districts of New Chicago and Phillipsburg. Granite Mountain mine,
+near the latter place, is exceedingly rich. A vein of ore, six feet
+wide, and assaying from 125 to 2,000 ounces of silver to the ton, is now
+being worked, the output reaching $120,000 per month.
+
+Soon the train enters Hell Gate Cañon, at first a beautiful valley, from
+two to three miles in width, but narrowing as we go westward, until from
+between its stupendous walls we suddenly emerge upon a broad plateau,
+where stands the city of Missoula. Formerly a remote and isolated
+frontier post, Missoula is now a place of considerable importance.
+Extending southward for ninety miles is the valley of the Bitter Root
+river, well watered, exceedingly fertile and thickly settled. Here are
+raised fine crops of wheat and oats, as well as vegetables, apples and
+strawberries.
+
+The tourist has now entered the finest game country in the Northwest. At
+any point along the line, for a distance of nearly three hundred miles,
+he will find deer, elk and bear in great abundance. Let him but place
+himself on their trail, and he will certainly soon have them within
+gunshot. Even in the vicinity of Missoula there is excellent sport, one
+local trapper obtaining $160 bounty for bear last season. Ducks and
+prairie chickens are also plentiful, and various species of trout abound
+in the mountain streams.
+
+The most interesting, as it is the most accessible, of the Indian
+reservations contiguous to the line of the Northern Pacific Railroad, is
+that of the Flathead tribe, through which the line runs for many miles
+in the course of its north-westward sweep from Missoula. At Arlee
+station, the visitor is within five miles of the agency, and at Ravalli
+a like distance from St. Ignatius mission. For a full account of the
+excellent work carried on among the Indians by the Jesuit Fathers,
+together with an exceedingly interesting description of the Flathead
+country generally, the reader is referred to an article in the _Century
+Magazine_ for October, 1882, from the accomplished pen of Mr. E. V.
+Smalley, as well as to sundry articles in that gentleman's own magazine,
+_The Northwest_. From a point about 500 feet from the summit of
+Macdonald's Peak, a few miles north of Ravalli, there is a remarkable
+view of a deep mountain gorge known as Pumpelly Cañon, which has many of
+the striking features of the Yosemite valley, in California. Two
+waterfalls, having an apparent height of about 800 feet, leap into this
+profound rocky cañon, and form a small circular lake of a dark blue
+color. This lake falls, by another cataract, into a second lake of
+exactly the same size and shape as the first, while still another
+cataract leaps from the lower lake into a deep ravine filled with
+magnificent forest trees. An excursion to Macdonald's Peak may be made
+from the mission in a single day. Tourists are, however, recommended to
+take blankets and provisions, and encamp upon the crest of the mountain
+to witness the sunrise. Saddle horses are obtainable at the mission, and
+there is a good trail all the way.
+
+Thompson Falls, 101 miles west of Missoula, is the starting point for
+the C[oe]ur d'Alène mines. The distress that followed the arrival in
+this district, in 1883, of several thousand half-starving adventurers,
+who, expecting to pick up in a few hours' time nuggets enough to make
+them rich for life, brought neither blankets to protect them from the
+cold of winter, nor the means of returning to their far-distant homes,
+or even of reaching less remote centres where work could be obtained,
+gave the C[oe]ur d'Alène mines a blow from which they were slow to
+recover. The development that has since taken place, especially since
+the introduction of hydraulics, has, however, abundantly demonstrated
+that former claims as to the richness and permanence of the mines were
+well founded, and we shall probably soon see here the richest placer
+mining camp in the world.
+
+The matchless river scenery that has done so much toward placing the
+Northern Pacific Railroad system in the proud position it occupies
+to-day at the head of the scenic railways of America, is not alone that
+of the peerless Columbia. For 140 miles of its course, in Western
+Montana and the Panhandle of Idaho, it follows the windings of a stream
+that for grand and imposing scenery is second only to that renowned
+river itself. Should the traveler wake up in the morning, anywhere
+between the point at which the waters of the Missoula empty themselves
+into the bright green flood of the Pend d'Oreille river and the head of
+Pend d'Oreille Lake, he will almost certainly suppose that it is in the
+current of the far-famed Columbia that he sees reflected, perhaps
+hundreds of feet beneath him, the varying forms of those stately
+mountains that soar thousands of feet above. But he is as yet almost a
+day's journey from the classic regions of the Columbia, albeit the
+lordly stream, whose scenery will be, hour after hour, a succession of
+surprises and delights to him, is one of the principal forks of that
+mighty river, whose still grander scenery it may be said to foreshadow
+in miniature.
+
+Between the Yellowstone National Park, on the one hand, and the Columbia
+river, on the other, Clark's Fork and the beautiful lake into which it
+widens out before turning northward to the British possessions, have
+been almost completely overshadowed. But their ten thousand beauties
+will assert themselves. They have not to be sought for in out-of-the-way
+places, nor are they so localized that a mere passing glimpse is the
+only reward of strained attention as the train flies onward. On the
+contrary, from an early hour in the morning until long past noon, there
+is a continuous unfolding of scenes in which are combined, with Nature's
+inimitable skill and infinite variety, all that is grandest in mountain,
+all that is most graceful in woodland and stream. So evenly distributed
+are the beauties of this long stretch of river scenery, that it is not
+easy to single out particular points as calling for special notice.
+There are, however, two that must arrest the attention and command the
+admiration of every traveler. The first, one mile east of Cabinet, where
+the river, which has been flowing for some distance considerably below
+the level of the railroad, enters a magnificent rocky gorge; and the
+other, about the same distance east of Clark's Fork, where it flows,
+without a ripple, through a forest of stately pines, whose forms are,
+with singular fidelity, reflected in its clear and tranquil waters. Soon
+it is lost to view, but only to reappear, after a short interval, in the
+form of the lovely
+
+
+                           LAKE PEND D'OREILLE.
+
+One of the largest sheets of fresh water in the West, Lake Pend
+d'Oreille will certainly yield to none in the beauty and variety of its
+scenery. Fifty-five miles in extreme length, and from three to twelve
+miles in width, it has an irregular shore line of probably 250 miles,
+richly diversified with rock and foliage, and surmounted by lofty ranges
+of hills. The railroad follows the north shore of the lake for about
+twenty-five miles, passing several little settlements, among which are
+Hope, Kootenai and Sand Point. Such accommodations as have hitherto been
+available to the visitor have been provided by respectable residents of
+Sand Point; but for the season of 1886 arrangements will be made that
+will constitute Hope the more convenient halting place. That, also, will
+be the point of arrival and departure for steamers making the tour of
+the lake.
+
+While the view from the car windows is not to be compared with the
+scenery at the southern end of the lake, it must, nevertheless, be
+pronounced superb. In the immediate foreground, the green waters break
+soothingly upon a pebbly beach, or fall in crested waves. On the right
+and left recede into distance the deeply indented shores, here clothed
+with luxuriant forests, there bare and precipitous. Yonder, nineteen
+miles away, is Granite Point, rising perpendicularly from the water 724
+feet, with Granite Mountain behind it, towering 5,300 feet above the
+level of the lake, itself surmounted by the snowy peaks of Pack Saddle
+Mountain, and they, in turn, by the great purple range of the C[oe]ur
+d'Alènes.
+
+Not a few Eastern travelers passing over the Northern Pacific Railroad
+have remarked upon the resemblance borne by the scenery of Lake Pend
+d'Oreille to that of their own famous Lake George. It is, however, if
+possible, even finer, the mountains being loftier, and the forests more
+luxuriant, than those inclosing the hitherto unrivaled lake in Northern
+New York.
+
+To fully set forth the attractions of this region for the sportsman, or
+to do anything like justice to its waters as fishing grounds, would
+require more space than is devoted in this pamphlet to the entire
+country between the Great Lakes and Puget Sound. Nowhere, probably, in
+the United States, is there such an abundance of large game as in the
+forests of Northwestern Montana and Northern Idaho. Within a few miles
+of any of the stations on Lake Pend d'Oreille may be found mule deer,
+white-tailed deer, elk, caribou and moose, black and cinnamon bear, and
+mountain sheep. Of winged game, geese, ducks and partridge are
+plentiful, and they may be shot at any season of the year. Various
+applications have been made to the Northern Pacific Railroad Company, by
+local hunters, for special rates for the shipment of game East; but the
+Company has steadfastly refused to encourage the wholesale destruction
+of game for commercial purposes, preferring that it should be reserved
+for legitimate sport.
+
+[Illustration: LAKE PEND D'OREILLE, IDAHO.]
+
+The true sportsman will immensely enjoy an excursion into the Kootenai
+country. The best route is from Kootenai station to Bonner's Ferry, on
+the Kootenai river, a distance of thirty-three miles by wagon road, and
+thence by boat, either down to the lake, a further distance of ninety
+miles, or up into the mountains. Complete camping outfits may be
+obtained from Spokane Falls, the nearest town on the line of the
+railroad.
+
+That the waters of Clark's Fork and Lake Pend d'Oreille are full of fine
+fish of many varieties, is established by overwhelming testimony. The
+want of a common nomenclature, however, is somewhat embarrassing to one
+whose opportunities for personal observation have been limited. Perhaps,
+therefore, it will be best to allow the local anglers to tell their own
+stories. Beginning with the town of Thompson's Falls, to which reference
+has already been made, we find a recent correspondent of the _American
+Angler_ claiming for Clark's Fork an abundance of salmon trout, of a
+species of large lake trout, and a species of whitefish, known locally
+as "squaw fish." Salmon trout are, he says, caught at all times of the
+year, except in midwinter and during high water in the month of June.
+They average from one-half to two pounds each, and the fishing is best
+during early spring and late fall. Lake trout have been caught weighing
+as much as eighteen pounds each; but the average is about six pounds.
+The "squaw fish" is said to be gamey, but of comparatively little value
+for the table. The same correspondent says that the mountain streams
+emptying into Clark's Fork in the vicinity of Thompson's Falls, afford
+excellent mountain trout fishing, and he quotes large scores made by
+local anglers. At Heron, which, by the way, is a divisional terminus of
+the railroad, with a first-class hotel operated in connection with the
+dining car department, trout is said to be so abundant as to be thought
+nothing of; "grayling," sometimes reaching ten pounds in weight, are
+almost as plentiful; and it is said to be no uncommon thing to see them
+jumping out of the water, pursued by large whitefish. Bull River, eight
+miles distant, yields salmon trout weighing up to twelve pounds. The
+waters of Lake Pend d'Oreille contain, in addition to the common lake
+trout, a species weighing from five to ten pounds each, and occasionally
+caught weighing as much as twenty pounds, speckled on both back and
+sides, and generally resembling Mackinac trout. They are a fine table
+fish, being much superior to lake trout. The "squaw fish" of this lake
+are said to resemble the pike. They weigh from one pound to five pounds
+each. From about the middle of August until the snow flies, the trout
+fishing is "the best in the world." There is also a fish resembling the
+herring, found in one part of the lake in immense shoals.
+
+Soon after leaving Lake Pend d'Oreille, the line enters a dense forest
+containing few settlements, and little that is interesting or
+picturesque, beyond the beautiful Lake Cocolala, a long but narrow sheet
+of water on the north side of the track. On the borders of the forest
+the train pauses a moment at Rathdrum, the nearest point on the railroad
+to Fort C[oe]ur d'Alène, on the lake of the same name. This lake even
+rivals, in the beauty of its waters and the grandeur of its mountain
+scenery, its more accessible neighbor, Lake Pend d'Oreille, while its
+conveniences for boating and fishing are equally good.
+
+At the station of Idaho Line, the train enters the Territory of
+Washington, pursuing its way in a southwesterly direction across the
+great Spokane Plain.
+
+A short run, and we are at Spokane Falls, a bright and busy little city,
+charmingly situated on the Spokane river, near the celebrated falls from
+which it takes its name. Built upon a gravelly plateau, sloping gently
+toward the river, overlooked by beautiful pine-clad hills, and with
+lofty mountain ranges in the far distance, Spokane Falls can not but
+produce a favorable impression upon the passing traveler. Its falls,
+which are its chief natural attraction, and will be the secret of the
+great commercial and manufacturing importance that undoubtedly awaits
+it, are situated on the north side of the town. The river is divided by
+basaltic islands into three great streams, curving toward each other,
+and pouring their floods into a common basin, from which the united
+waters come surging and foaming to make their final plunge of sixty-five
+feet into the deep chasm below. The tremendous force with which the
+river tears through its rocky channels, and hurls itself over the falls,
+is perhaps best illustrated by a comparison with the Falls of St.
+Anthony, at Minneapolis. While the latter represent a force of 135,000
+horse power, the former represents one of 216,000 horse power,
+utilizable with equal facility. Several extensive flouring mills, as
+well as saw mills, are already in operation; and there is no doubt that,
+with the development of the rich wheat country of Eastern Washington,
+there will come an immense extension of the manufacturing industries of
+Spokane Falls.
+
+It is probable that the town will soon have two important feeders in
+branch lines of railway, extending, the one northward to the Colville
+mining region,--the other southward to the Palouse wheat country. These
+lines will open railway communication with two of the richest sections
+of country west of the Rocky Mountains.
+
+Until within the last year or two, the settlements of the Colville
+valley have been confined to the scattered homes of ranchmen. But
+recently the tide of immigration that has been flowing into the
+Territory has reached this remote region, and agricultural operations of
+a general character are being engaged in. The valley is as fertile as it
+is beautiful, and not only fine wheat, but fruit of excellent quality,
+is being raised there.
+
+In the Chewelah district there have recently been found so many rich
+veins of silver that Mr. E. V. Smalley, who visited it in November,
+1885, declares that it is almost certain to become, within a few years,
+the greatest silver camp on the continent.
+
+Sixteen and forty-one miles respectively westward from Spokane Falls,
+are Cheney and Sprague, in a good agricultural country, whose rapid
+development is building them up as solid and substantial towns. Cheney
+has a large hotel, and is, moreover, the nearest railway station to
+Medical Lake, a large sheet of water possessing remarkable curative
+properties, and situated nine miles west. Good hotels and bathing
+establishments having been erected, Medical Lake is now an exceedingly
+pleasant resort, the surrounding country being very attractive.
+
+From Palouse Junction, sixty-nine miles west of Sprague, a line extends
+eastward into the Palouse country. So far as regards scenery, a ride
+over this line to Colfax and Moscow is as uninteresting a railroad
+journey as could well be found, the line following a series of valleys
+that have the appearance of having once formed the rocky bed of some
+considerable stream.
+
+Colfax is a busy little city in the Palouse river valley, hemmed in so
+closely on both sides that one of its rivals recently suggested that it
+might find it an advantage to be roofed over. But it does a considerable
+business for so small a place, shipping a large proportion of the
+agricultural produce of the valley, estimated, in 1885, at two million
+bushels of grain. The agricultural methods of Eastern Washington will
+strike most visitors as somewhat peculiar. It is not in every State of
+the Union, nor in every Territory, that the farmer can plow and sow
+"just when he gets ready." But here plowing and seeding may be seen in
+progress ten months out of every twelve, and instances have even been
+known of winter wheat being sown every month in the year, and all coming
+to harvest in its proper turn. And such crops! Thirty, forty and fifty
+bushels to the acre are raised so easily, that, had the farmer a nearer
+market, he would soon get rich. The construction of the proposed branch
+southward from Spokane Falls will, however, give him facilities for
+shipping east over the Northern Pacific Railroad that will certainly pay
+him better than exporting to England by way of Portland, as he does at
+present. The self-binding harvester, so familiar an object in many other
+parts of the country, is here unknown, the grain being cut by immense
+"headers," propelled by from four to eight horses each. This
+strange-looking machine, an exemplification of the old saying, "the cart
+before the horse," is better adapted than any other to the peculiar
+conditions of the country, straw being of no value, and threshing
+usually going on simultaneously with the cutting of the grain, although
+the wheat may, after cutting, lie in the fields for many weeks without
+detriment.
+
+The climate of Eastern Washington, to which alone this remarkable state
+of things is due, differs entirely from that of the western half of the
+Territory, from which it is divided by the Cascade range of mountains.
+It is a mistake to suppose that the humidity which characterizes that
+portion of the Territory bordering on the Pacific Ocean, distinguishes
+it as a whole. On the contrary, the eastern half is remarkably dry, and
+that, too, without those extremes of temperature that usually accompany
+a dry climate. Should there be a spell of severe cold during the brief
+winter season, it is invariably cut short by the "Kuro-Siwo," or
+Japanese current, which, striking the coasts of British Columbia and
+Washington Territory, sends a warm wave over the entire Northwestern
+country, sometimes extending even to the valleys of Montana.
+
+Continuing westward from Palouse Junction, a run of little more than an
+hour brings us to Pasco, the eastern terminus of the Cascade division of
+the railroad. This important division, intended to establish direct
+communication between the magnificent harbors on Puget Sound and the
+Eastern States, is already operated to the extent of 122 miles, or
+ninety miles westward from Pasco, and thirty-two miles eastward from
+Tacoma. Its eastern section has given a great impetus to the development
+of the agricultural capabilities of the Yakima, Klickitat and Kittitas
+valleys, which are well adapted, not only to stock raising, but also to
+the cultivation of fruits and cereals. In this section wool growing is
+also engaged in with great success. This industry is one of considerable
+importance both in Washington and Oregon, the entire clip for 1885 being
+no less than 13,000,000 pounds.
+
+There are few revelations more surprising to an Eastern tourist than
+that of the magnitude of some of the great Western rivers. The Snake
+river, for example, is known to him, if at all, merely as one of the
+various tributaries of the Columbia; and, when he finds himself crossing
+its mighty flood by a bridge 1,672 feet in length, and learns that its
+force and volume are such that it drives itself like a solid wedge into
+the waters of the Columbia, he is apt to wonder that he knows so little
+about it. Future tourists will not regard this tributary stream with any
+the less interest for being told beforehand that it is longer than the
+Rhine, more than three times the length of the Hudson, and that,
+straightened out, it would reach from the Missouri valley to the
+Atlantic ocean. It is, moreover, a great commercial highway, being
+navigated by steamers of considerable tonnage for 150 miles. It flows
+for a long distance in a deep cañon, the sides of which are so
+precipitous as to render the river almost inaccessible. Immense shutes
+have therefore been constructed for the transfer of the wheat that forms
+the staple product of the country from the warehouses on the high banks
+to the boats and barges anchored below.
+
+Another section of the famous wheat country of Southeastern Washington,
+identified with the unmusical name of Walla Walla, borne by the oldest
+and best town east of the Cascade Mountains, is reached by a branch line
+extending from Wallula Junction. With 100,000 acres of land cultivated
+to cereals, with 800,000 apple trees, 100,000 pear, plum and peach
+trees, 25,000 grape-vines, large herds of cattle, and still larger
+flocks of sheep, the county of which Walla Walla is the judicial seat
+may be taken as fairly illustrating the varied capabilities of Eastern
+Washington. Scarcely less prosperous is the adjoining county of
+Columbia. These counties, however, being well settled, reference is made
+to them only as foreshadowing the future condition of those younger
+counties, adjacent to the Northern Pacific Railroad, which are now in
+course of settlement. In many of the latter the cultivation of the soil
+presents even fewer difficulties than in these older settled regions, in
+many parts of which there is scarcely an acre of level land to be found.
+
+Returning to Wallula Junction, and there resuming our westward journey,
+we at once enter a region of surpassing interest, none other than the
+famous land--
+
+                         "=Where rolls the Oregon.="
+
+Its navigable waters within 450 miles of those of the Missouri river,
+the great Columbia drains an area almost equal in extent to the united
+area of France and Germany. Excluding the portages at the Cascades and
+Dalles, with several less important rapids, the river is navigable to
+Kettle Falls, 725 miles from its mouth. These falls, on the upper river,
+are not accessible by rail, being a considerable distance above the
+point at which the railroad enters its valley. They are said to be more
+impressive even than the famous Cascades on the lower river, there being
+a perpendicular fall of twenty feet, and then swift rapids between rocky
+banks of quartz and porphyry. It is on the upper river, also, that there
+occur the Little Dalles, where the waters tear through a contracted
+channel with terrific force, constituting, at least at high water, an
+impassable barrier to navigation.
+
+[Illustration: MOUNT HOOD--FROM THE HEAD OF THE DALLES, COLUMBIA RIVER,
+OREGON.]
+
+From Wallula to within a few miles of Portland, a twelve hours' ride,
+the tourist enjoys an uninterrupted succession of views of that superb
+scenery which has given the Columbia river its world-wide reputation.
+Never for more than a few moments does he lose sight of its mighty
+flood,--now flowing onward with all the majesty of the lower
+Mississippi, and now surging through the rocky barriers that impede its
+course; here confined within lofty basaltic walls, there inclosing
+numerous beautifully wooded islands; and here again marked by long
+stretches of bare white sand driven continually by the unceasing winds.
+For some miles west of Wallula the banks of the river are low, and
+possess no special object of interest. It is not, indeed, until he
+reaches the Great Dalles that the tourist sees any indication of the
+magnificent scenery he is approaching. There, however, he has his first
+glimpse of the queenly Mount Hood, whose snowy peak, soaring 11,225 feet
+above the sea, stands out sharply against the sky at a distance of
+thirty-five miles. The Dalles themselves, scarcely noticeable, except
+when the river is at flood, constitute one of the most curious and
+interesting sights in the world,--nothing less than that of the mighty
+Columbia turned on edge. Here, within a gorge so narrow that a child may
+fling a pebble from bank to bank, is confined the greatest river of the
+Northwest. The chasm through which it flows has never been fathomed, and
+can only be approximately determined by an inversion of the grand
+proportions of the river where it flows through its ordinary channel.
+
+At Dalles City, the eastern terminus of navigation on the middle river,
+the tourist finds himself in an attractive town of nearly forty years'
+growth. Here he may with advantage make a brief stay, resuming his
+journey either by train or by steamer, the fine boats of the Oregon
+Railway & Navigation Company plying daily between this city and
+Portland. From the heights commanding the town, magnificent views are to
+be obtained, Mount Hood looming up in the southwest, and Mount Adams,
+another of the great peaks of the Cascade Range, in the north.
+
+We have now left behind the low-lying shores that extend for so many
+miles between the Dalles and Wallula. Henceforward the scenery increases
+in interest every mile, the mountains becoming loftier and more
+precipitous, the rocky shores more rugged, and the intervening foliage
+more luxuriant.
+
+It should be stated that the scenery, especially on the south side of
+the river, appears to much greater advantage when viewed from the deck
+of a steamer than when seen from the train. In consideration of this
+fact, railway tickets are available by steamer without extra charge. The
+boat leaving the Dalles early in the morning, there is a loss of one day
+involved in taking the steamer on the westward journey; but, returning
+from Portland, the tourist is able to reach the Dalles in time for that
+day's east-bound train.
+
+Forty-three miles from the Dalles are the Cascades, where the river
+changes from a placid lake to swift rapids and a foaming torrent. Before
+the completion of the railroad every pound of freight had to be
+transferred, at this point, from a steamer navigating the river above
+this insurmountable barrier to one navigating it below, or _vice versa_.
+The railway portage of six miles on the Washington side of the river is
+still operated, and the transfer of such passengers as choose to
+complete their journey by water is made so speedily and conveniently as
+to enhance, rather than otherwise, the pleasure and interest of the
+river trip.
+
+In view of the importance of the river as a free commercial highway,
+Congress has made several appropriations for the construction, at the
+Cascades, of a system of locks. It is certainly a gigantic undertaking,
+and many years will probably elapse before its completion.
+
+To a great convulsion of nature, of whose occurrence there is abundant
+evidence, may be traced a singular Indian tradition, that Mount Hood and
+Mount Adams formerly stood close to the river, connected by a natural
+bridge. The mountains, so goes the story, becoming angry with each
+other, threw out fire, ashes and stones, and so demolished the bridge,
+choking the river, which had previously been navigable. The present
+remoteness of the mountains is attributed to the anger of the Great
+Spirit, who hurled them thus far asunder. Both, in common with other
+peaks of the Cascade Range, are extinct volcanoes; and the Indian
+tradition may have its origin either in some great eruption, or in some
+sudden movement of what is known as the sliding mountain, an immense
+mass of basaltic rock gradually wearing its way toward the river.
+
+After gazing in admiration at the fine scenery surrounding the Cascades,
+the tourist will scarcely be prepared for the announcement that the
+grandest of all is yet to come. But, after leaving Bonneville, not only
+is the general effect grander and more imposing, but the objects of
+special interest are more numerous. Here it is that the advantage of
+making the trip by steamer is most apparent; for, let the train travel
+ever so slowly, it is impossible for even the most quick-sighted
+traveler to take in all the points of interest that crowd one upon
+another.
+
+On the north side is Castle Rock, rising abruptly from the water's edge
+a thousand feet or more. Farther down the river, also on the north side,
+is Cape Horn, an imposing basaltic cliff projecting into the water. On
+the south side there descend from the lofty perpendicular walls that
+frown upon the river for many miles, numerous waterfalls, of
+indescribable beauty. Here is the lovely Oneonta, 600 feet of silver
+ribbon, floating from the dizzy height. A few moments more, and we are
+opposite the still more beautiful Multnomah Fall, which has a descent of
+no less than 820 feet. At this point the train stops fifteen minutes to
+enable passengers to ascend to the rustic bridge, there to enjoy the
+best possible view of this incomparable fall, and its wondrously
+beautiful setting, contrasting so strikingly with the wild scenery
+around it.
+
+At the Pillars of Hercules, two gigantic columns of rock, one on either
+side the track, and forming, as it were, the western gateway to this
+marvelous region, the railroad leaves the river, and runs right on to
+Portland. The steamer continues its course, past the beautiful city of
+Vancouver, to the mouth of the Willamette river, by which great
+tributary of the Columbia, it soon reaches
+
+
+                                 PORTLAND.
+
+Its phenomenal growth, its commanding position on one of the great
+waterways of the continent, its wealth, commerce and enterprise, and the
+singular natural beauty of its situation, render the capital of the
+Pacific Northwest one of the most attractive cities on the American
+continent.
+
+Fifteen years ago Portland contained a population of 1,103. By 1880 the
+construction of the western section of the Northern Pacific Railroad,
+and the approaching completion of the great transcontinental system, had
+so stimulated the growth of the city that its population had increased
+to 17,577. To-day it is estimated at 30,000, or, including the suburbs
+of East Portland and Albina, at 40,000, and a handsomer city of its size
+can not be found in the United States.
+
+In everything that distinguishes a great metropolitan city, the progress
+of Portland has been even more remarkable than the rapid growth of its
+population. The handsome business blocks that line its principal streets
+bear witness to the magnitude of its trade and commerce, while its
+churches, schools and other public buildings testify to the high moral
+tone and refined taste of its citizens.
+
+Although one hundred miles from the coast, Portland, like London,
+Rotterdam and Antwerp, is virtually a seaport, and its growth and
+progress are based upon the solid foundations of its natural advantages.
+Loading at its wharves, or riding at anchor on the broad bosom of the
+river, may be seen, not only river craft of all sorts and sizes, but
+ocean-going vessels of 3,000 tons. When the great wheat crop of Oregon
+is in course of shipment to Europe, there may be seen a fleet of as fine
+merchantmen as can be found in the world. The salmon exports alone, for
+the year ending August 1, 1885, required 120 large vessels, having a
+total capacity of about as many thousand tons. The total value of the
+exports to foreign countries for the year just mentioned, was
+$5,857,057, and that of domestic exports $6,699,776, making a grand
+total of $12,556,833. In addition to several hundred thousand tons of
+wheat, and the 120 ship loads of salmon already mentioned, the exports
+from the Columbia river included over eleven million pounds of wool,
+over two million pounds of hides, nearly five and one-half million
+pounds of hops, and twenty-nine million pounds of potatoes.
+
+Portland is said to number among its merchant princes twenty-one
+millionaires, and certainly there are few cities whose private
+residences are more strikingly indicative of wealth and refinement. The
+picturesque surroundings of the city render it an exceedingly desirable
+place of residence. From the summit of Robinson's Hill a view that it is
+no extravagance to pronounce one of the finest in the world may be
+obtained. At one's feet lies the city, nestled in rich foliage.
+Stretching away, for many miles, from where their waters unite in one
+common flood, may be seen the Columbia and Willamette rivers. But above
+all, bounded only by the limits of the horizon, is the great Cascade
+Range, with all its glittering peaks. On the extreme right,
+seventy-eight miles distant, as the crow flies, is seen the snowy crown
+of Mount Jefferson; across the river, fifty-one miles distant, rises
+Mount Hood, one of the most beautiful mountains on the coast, and the
+pride and glory of Oregon; to the northeast stand out the crests of
+Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens, and in the same direction, but one
+hundred miles away, may be descried the great Tacoma, the grandest
+mountain on the Pacific slope. All these five peaks are radiant with
+eternal snow, and it may well be imagined that the effect of the
+uplifting of their giant forms against the clear blue sky is grand in
+the extreme.
+
+Tourists coming northward from San Francisco have the choice of two
+routes and two modes of travel. They may either take one of the fine
+steamers of the Oregon Railway and Navigation Company, sailing every
+five days, and performing the voyage in from sixty to seventy-two hours,
+or they may travel overland by the Oregon & California Railroad, a line
+that traverses not only the most fruitful plains, but also the most
+beautiful valleys, of this rich State.
+
+For the benefit of such travelers, and also in view of the possibility
+of there being those who, both coming and returning by the Northern
+Pacific Railroad, would like to visit the garden of Oregon, and, if
+possible, obtain a glimpse of Mount Shasta, it may not be out of place
+to give a brief description of the line extending southward from
+Portland to the southern boundary of the State.
+
+For upward of one hundred miles our route lies along the Willamette
+valley. This is the largest valley in the State, being 150 miles in
+length, with an average width of fifty miles. Inclosed on the east side
+by the Cascade Mountains, and on the west by the Coast Range, it
+contains an area of about four and one-half million acres of rich and
+beautiful land. Some of the pleasantest towns in the Northwest are to be
+found in this valley.
+
+[Illustration: FLOATING FISH WHEEL, ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER, OREGON.]
+
+First comes Oregon City, sixteen miles from Portland; this is the oldest
+town in Oregon. It is situated just below the beautiful falls of the
+Willamette, amid highly picturesque scenery. Its chief interest for the
+tourist centres in the falls, which represent a force of over a million
+horse power, or about eight times that of the Falls of St. Anthony. They
+may be seen a few hundred yards south of the station, on the west side
+of the track. Hitherto there has been seen no considerable extent of
+fertile country; but in Barlow's prairie there appears a fine tract of
+agricultural land inclosed by tributaries of the Willamette. Others
+succeed it, and soon good homesteads, surrounded by shade trees and
+orchards, are seen in every direction. The next town of importance is
+Salem, the State capital, beautifully situated on the sloping banks of
+the river. The capitol, and other State buildings, may be seen from the
+train; and the entire city, with its broad streets and fine oak groves,
+presents a pleasing appearance.
+
+The twenty-eight miles intervening between Salem and Albany afford some
+fine views of the Cascade Range, Mount Hood being visible at a distance
+of seventy miles, and the nearer southern peaks in still bolder
+outline. Eugene City, 123 miles from Portland, is also charmingly
+situated and finely laid out on the edge of a broad, rich prairie
+overlooked by a ridge of low hills. Its geographical position, at the
+head of navigation, commands for it the trade of a large section of
+country. It is also the seat of the State University, and is otherwise
+an educational centre of great importance.
+
+In the course of the next seventy-four miles the railroad ascends about
+2,000 feet to Roseburg, the judicial seat of Douglas county, traversed
+by another of the famous valleys of Oregon, that of the Umpqua. This was
+formerly a great stock country; but its pastures have gradually
+disappeared before the plow, and cattle have given way to grain. It is,
+moreover, a fine fruit growing region. The tourist is now approaching
+those intricate valleys which have made this line of railway from
+Roseburg to its terminus at Ashland at once so costly and so
+picturesque.
+
+Cow Creek Cañon, so winding that thirty-five miles of track had to be
+laid to attain twelve miles of actual distance, abounds with wild and
+beautiful scenery. From the valley of the Umpqua, the railroad passes
+into that of the Rogue river, in Josephine county. This county is
+equally famed for its natural beauty, its healthful climate and the
+wonderful productiveness of its soil. Grains, fruits and vegetables of
+every description, yield prodigiously, and their quality is not to be
+surpassed.
+
+The great attractions of the county for the tourist are the two
+limestone caves situated thirty miles south of Grant's Pass, and fifteen
+miles east of Kerbyville. There is said to be a good wagon road from the
+latter place to within five miles of these caves, and arrangements are
+in progress for the early completion of the road. According to an
+official publication of the county, there is another route, _viâ_
+Williams Creek, by wagon road, to within eight miles of the caves, and
+thence, by a mountain trail, on horseback. The scenery along this route
+is stated to be grand beyond description, embracing many of the lovely
+valleys of this charming county, and, in the distance, the snow-capped
+mountains of the Cascade Range, terminating in the tremendous peak of
+Mount Shasta. The caves themselves consist each of a series of chambers,
+adorned with beautiful stalactites of prismatic colors, and other
+curious and delicate formations, presenting exquisite patterns, and
+sparkling with the lustre of diamonds.
+
+At Ashland, 341 miles from Portland, the tourist arrives at the southern
+terminus of the road. Connection is made with the California and Oregon
+Railroad, at Delta, California, by stage. This is an exceedingly
+enjoyable stage ride, the first twenty miles of the journey being over
+the Siskiyou Mountains, from whose summits the long Sierra Nevada and
+Cascade Range can be traced for nearly 200 miles.
+
+No tourist should return East without first taking a trip down the
+
+
+                              LOWER COLUMBIA
+
+to Astoria, that city of most interesting historical associations, and
+no little actual importance in these stirring days of trade and
+manufactures. Admirably appointed steamers, making fast time, run daily
+between Portland and Astoria. The trip need not, therefore, occupy more
+than two days. The distance from Portland to the point at which the
+Willamette discharges itself into the Columbia, is twelve miles, in the
+course of which opportunity is afforded for observing the progress being
+made by the city in its manufacturing and other enterprises. The busy
+wharves are also passed, and the stately ships riding at anchor.
+
+[Illustration: MOUNT TACOMA.]
+
+After the first few miles of the Columbia the tourist may be surprised
+to find that the scenery of the lower river is far from being tame or
+monotonous. The river itself winds considerably for so great a body of
+water; the forest, too, is luxuriant, and the hillsides are covered with
+heavy fir; numerous islands occur at intervals, wooded and exceedingly
+pretty. Where the river has worked its way through the Coast Mountains,
+the scenery, though not so abrupt, stern or impressive as that of the
+middle Columbia, presents many fine effects, the lofty walls of the
+river being surmounted by hills of considerable altitude.
+
+Not far from Columbia City, on the north or Washington bank of the
+stream, is an island rock known as Mount Coffin, and formerly an Indian
+place of sepulture. Here the tribes deposited the bodies of their noted
+chiefs and warriors. In his canoe, previously rendered useless, and
+with his bow and arrows, the dead hero was here laid to rest.
+
+After passing Kalama, the tourist comes upon some of the great canning
+establishments, which before long are passed at such short intervals
+that they seem to line the north bank, on which most of them are
+situated.
+
+The fisheries of the Columbia river are almost as famous as its scenery.
+The canning industry, which was first established in 1866, has within
+the last few years attained great importance. Producing the first year
+some 4,000 cases, representing, at the high price they commanded, $16
+per case, a total value of $64,000, it has steadily increased its
+product, until now it has reached upward of half a million cases. The
+catch of 1885, which was 524,530 cases, fell short of that of 1884 by
+132,000 cases, in consequence of the markets of the world being
+temporarily overstocked. It is remarkable that the supply should at all
+exceed the demand, when the gigantic extent of the industry is taken
+into consideration. The great perfection to which the methods employed
+in capturing the salmon have been brought, is probably accountable for
+the recent glut in the market. Among the most effective contrivances for
+the purpose, is the floating fish-wheel, by means of which the fish are
+literally scooped up out of the water in shoals. The industry gives
+employment to 1,500 boats, 3,000 fishermen, and 1,000 factory hands, the
+latter principally Chinese. The canning season is from April 1st to July
+31st, when the lower Columbia is alive with fishing boats, and the
+canneries are in full operation.
+
+As we approach Astoria, the river widens out into a broad estuary, some
+seven miles across. Here is Tongue Point, a bold headland running out
+into the river from the Oregon shore.
+
+In a beautiful bay between this point and Point Adams, is Astoria, built
+partly on piles, and partly on the shelving hills. For the story of its
+early history, of the arrival of John Jacob Astor's trading ship,
+"Tonquin," and of its subsequent British occupancy, the reader is
+referred to Washington Irving's delightful volume. It is sufficient to
+say that it is to-day an exceedingly interesting city to visit, not more
+on account of its being the oldest British settlement in the Northwest,
+and the central figure in the salmon fishing of the Columbia river, than
+for the novelty of its construction.
+
+Its busy wharves and abundant shipping proclaim it a seaport of
+considerable importance, requiring only a railroad or the removal of the
+barriers to the navigation of the middle Columbia, to make it a great
+city.
+
+Opposite Point Adams is Cape Hancock, formerly known as Cape
+Disappointment. On the sea-coast, both on the Washington side, north of
+Cape Hancock, and on the Oregon side, south of Point Adams, are various
+summer resorts attracting crowds of visitors during the season. On the
+Washington shore is Ilwaco, beautifully situated on the north shore of
+Baker's Bay, with a long, crescent-shaped beach of fine, white sand
+sloping to the water, and heavily wooded hills in the rear. This growing
+place, with its hotels, stores, church and school house, is rapidly
+growing in popularity. Steamers meet the Portland boat at Astoria,
+where passengers are transferred without inconvenience or delay. They
+call, both going and returning, at Cape Hancock, affording tourists an
+opportunity of visiting Fort Canby, and the great lighthouse, from which
+there is one of the most extensive and magnificent views on the entire
+Pacific coast. On the Oregon shore of the ocean are Clatsop Beach, where
+there are good hotel accommodations and excellent hunting and fishing,
+and a popular resort known as Seaside, boasting a multitude of
+attractions, including a fine ocean beach and a trout creek. Should the
+tourist be unable to make a long stay at any of these places, he ought
+at least to pay them a brief visit, if only to cross the great bar of
+the river, and to see where its mighty flood discharges itself into the
+ocean at the rate of 1,000,000 gallons per second.
+
+The climate of this section is exceedingly humid; but its summers are
+delightful. Its rainfall is mostly in winter, when it is both heavy and
+continuous. It is said, that, if a barrel, with the two ends taken out,
+be placed upon its side with the bung-hole uppermost, the rain will
+enter by that small aperture faster than it can run out at the two ends.
+For this story, however, the writer can not vouch, any more than for
+that of the recent visitor to the National Park, who is said to have
+caught, in one of the lakes of that remarkable region, a fish so large
+that, upon his dragging it ashore, the water of the lake fell six
+inches.
+
+
+                              TO PUGET SOUND.
+
+The tourist has now become more or less familiar with the natural
+features and resources of that great country lying between the Snake
+river and the Pacific Ocean, and between the Columbia river and the
+Siskiyou Mountains.
+
+There remains only Western Washington, with its extensive forests, its
+rich coal mines, its hop gardens, and its far-famed inland sea, on which
+he is to embark on his voyage to the great land of the far North. The
+Pacific division of the Northern Pacific Railroad follows the Willamette
+river from Portland to its confluence with the Columbia, and the latter
+river from that point to Kalama, where trains are conveyed across the
+river by the finest transfer boat in the world, built expressly for the
+railroad company, and constructed to carry thirty cars at one time. From
+Kalama the track strikes almost directly northward for Puget Sound,
+passing through long stretches of dense forest, but also intersecting a
+tract of country containing a larger area of fertile agricultural land
+than is contained in any other county in Western Washington.
+
+The chief towns of this region are Chehalis and Centralia, and they give
+evidence of thrift and prosperity. But the attention of the tourist as
+he travels onward is largely occupied with the magnificent peaks of the
+Cascade Range, whose forms of dazzling whiteness constitute, with their
+background of deepest blue and the dark forests which clothe their base,
+a picture of marvelous beauty. For more than one hundred miles after we
+leave Portland, there looms up behind us the graceful contour of Mount
+Hood, while to the east are seen at intervals the majestic forms of
+Mount St. Helens and Mount Adams.
+
+But the grandest scene of all is yet to come. After leaving Tenino,
+there is a revelation of almost unequaled grandeur in the view of Mount
+Tacoma, the loftiest peak of the entire range. If Mount Hood can claim
+to be considered, as is generally admitted, the most graceful and
+beautiful mountain on the Pacific coast, Mount Tacoma can certainly
+claim to be the most majestic and sublime. Towering 14,444 feet above
+sea-level, and thus exceeding by more than 3,000 feet the height of any
+other mountain in Washington or Oregon, it seems to rear its massive
+head close to the very battlements of heaven. No other mountain, even in
+the Yellowstone National Park or in the main range of the Rockies, will
+have produced so great an impression upon the traveler as will the
+mighty Tacoma. As he gazes at its majestic form, he is inclined to doubt
+whether there is in the whole world one that could establish a better
+claim to universal sovereignty. In lines that will live as long as the
+English language itself, Byron declared Mont Blanc the monarch of
+mountains. But Byron never saw the matchless Tacoma. It, too, has its
+throne of rocks, its diadem of snow, and, though less frequently than
+Mont Blanc, its robe of clouds, an adjunct of doubtful advantage except
+in the exigencies of versification.
+
+[Illustration: "THE TACOMA" TACOMA. W. T.]
+
+Mount Tacoma has, embedded in its mighty bosom, no fewer than fifteen
+glaciers, three of which have been rendered accessible to visitors.
+Comparing them with the glaciers of the Alps, Senator Edmunds, of
+Vermont, declares that the finest effects he witnessed during the course
+of a long tour in Switzerland, fell far short of what he saw on his
+visit to Mount Tacoma. At the great hotel, at Tacoma City, guides and
+camping outfits are always obtainable. Excursion parties are frequently
+made up during the summer season, the trip being entirely free from
+difficulty or danger, even to ladies.
+
+It is at the city of Tacoma that the tourist first looks over the blue
+waters of Puget Sound. This is the western terminus of the Northern
+Pacific Railroad. Occupying a commanding position upon a high plateau
+overlooking Admiralty Inlet, Tacoma has an excellent harbor, capable of
+receiving the largest ocean-going vessels. It has also some fine public
+buildings, among them being the Anna Wright Seminary for girls, a
+monument of the beneficence of Mr. C. B. Wright, of Philadelphia. Its
+luxuriously furnished hotel, the Tacoma, erected at a cost of $200,000,
+occupies one of the finest sites in the world, overlooking, as it does,
+the picturesque shores of the bay, and commanding a magnificent view of
+the imperial mountain.
+
+A few miles northward is Seattle, also with an excellent harbor, and the
+promise of becoming a city of great importance, an extensive section of
+rich country being naturally tributary to it.
+
+There is no more delightful climate than that of Puget Sound. The
+summers are cool, the maximum temperature at Tacoma in the summer of
+1884 being eighty-nine degrees, and in that of 1885, eighty-five degrees
+only.
+
+The Cascade division of the railroad, extending eastward from Tacoma, is
+developing a very rich bituminous coal country, and great quantities of
+the mineral are being shipped from Tacoma, where immense bunkers have
+been erected to facilitate its exportation. This line also reaches the
+fine hop growing country of the Puyallup valley, whose product has
+steadily risen in Eastern markets, until now it commands as high a price
+as that of the State of New York.
+
+But never was the tourist less disposed than now to concern himself with
+agricultural or commercial statistics. With eager expectation, impatient
+of delay, he is hastening toward that veritable Wonderland of the World
+that constitutes the Mecca of his pilgrimage. He is about to enter upon
+the final stage of his long journey, in that far-famed Inland Passage,
+whose incomparable scenery, extending in one unbroken chain for more
+than a thousand miles, alone surpasses those stupendous works of Nature
+upon which he has so recently gazed.
+
+                                                              JOHN HYDE.
+
+
+
+
+                     ALASKA AND THE INLAND PASSAGE.
+
+
+Man travels for business and pleasure. The former can be easily
+described, by a slight interpolation in a well-known mathematical
+definition, as "the shortest distance and quickest time between two
+points." The latter bears to this mathematical rectilinear exactness the
+relation of the curves,--Hogarth's "line of beauty," the rotund circle
+and graceful sweep of the Archimedean spiral, and bends of beauty beyond
+computation; and, as any of these are more pleasing to the eye than the
+stiff straight line, so any tourist's jaunt is more pleasing to all the
+senses than the business man's travels. But, as all straight lines are
+alike, and all curves are different, so are their equivalents in travel,
+to which we have alluded. One tourist, as a Nimrod, dons his hunting
+shirt and high-topped boots, and, seeking the solemn recesses of the
+Rockies, slays the grizzly and mountain lion, and thus has his "good
+time;" another drives through the grand old gorges of the Yellowstone
+Park, and the deep impressions left by a lofty nature are his ample
+rewards; and yet again, where physical exertion is to be avoided by
+delicate ones or those averse to its peculiarities, one may float down
+the distant Columbia, with its colossal contours, and, without even
+lifting a finger to aid one's progress, view as vast and stupendous
+scenery as the world can produce. Thus each place suits each varying
+disposition, from the most roystering "roughing it," developing the
+muscles in mighty knots, to where the most ponderous panorama of nature
+may be enjoyed from a moving mansion, as it were. Could we conceive a
+place where all these advantages would be united into one, or where one
+after the other might be indulged at pleasure, we would certainly have a
+tourists' paradise, an ever-to-be-sought and never-to-be-forgotten nook
+of creation. Such a tour is to be encountered on "the inland passage to
+Alaska," as it is called by those knowing it best.
+
+In this rough, rocky region, Nature has been prodigal of both land and
+water,--making the former high and picturesque, and the latter deep and
+navigable, and running in all directions through the other, apparently
+for the purpose that it might be easily viewed. From the northwest
+corner of Washington Territory, through all of the coast line of British
+Columbia, and along Alaska's shores to the long-cast shadows of Mount
+St. Elias, stretches for nearly two thousand miles a picturesque
+panorama that seems as if the Yellowstone, the Yosemite, Colorado, and
+Switzerland and the Alps, were passing in review before the spectator;
+and, when the greatest northing is gained, Greenland and Norway have
+added their glacier-crowned and iceberg-bearing vistas to the view. It
+looks as if the Yellowstone National Park had sunk into the sea until
+the valleys were waterways, and the feet of the high mountains had been
+converted into shores. A grand salt-water river it is that stretches
+from Puget Sound, itself a beautiful sheet of water, to our distant
+colony of Alaska, a good round thousand miles, and whose waters are as
+quiet as an Alpine lake, even though a fierce gale rage on the broad
+Pacific outside.
+
+Beyond the parallel of Sitka, though the grand scenery may be no more
+imposing than that through which the tourist will have passed in coming
+from Washington Territory, he will find some of the curiosities of
+nature which are to be found only in the dreaded frigid zones,--icebergs
+and glaciers. Before the waters of Northwestern Washington Territory are
+out of sight, great patches of snow are to be seen on the highest of the
+grand mountains bordering the inland passage. These little white
+blotches in the northern gullies become larger and larger as the
+excursion steamer wends her way northward, until the loftiest peaks are
+crowned with snow. Then, across connecting ridges, they join their white
+mantles; and, in a few more miles, the blue ice of glaciers peeps from
+out the lower edges of the deep snow. Lower and lower they descend as
+the steamer crawls northward, until the upper parts of the passage are
+essayed, when they have come to the ocean's level, and, plunging into
+the sea, snap off at intervals, and float away as icebergs, some of them
+higher than the masts of the large, commodious steamers that bear
+tourists to this fairy-land of the frigid zones, if one can be allowed
+such an expression. Glacier Bay, which the excursion steamers visit on
+their summer trips, has a great number of these frozen rivers of ice
+debouching into it; and its clear, quiet waters, reflecting the Alpine
+scenery of its shores, are ruffled only by the breaking of the icebergs
+from the terminal fronts of the glacier, that send waves across its
+whole breadth, and with a noise like the firing of a sea-coast cannon.
+Muir Glacier is the greatest of this grand group, and surpasses anything
+nearer than the polar zones themselves. There is no use in going into
+mathematical measurements,--its two and three hundred feet in height and
+its breadth of several miles; for they but feebly represent its
+grandeur, the deep impressions that figures can not measure when viewing
+this frozen Niagara of the North. Not until the blue Adriatic has
+pierced its way into the heart of the high Alps, or some ocean inlet has
+invaded the valleys of the vast Yellowstone Park, will we ever have an
+equivalent to this display of Nature's noblest efforts in scenic
+effects. Were the other scenery as monotonous as the ceaseless plains, a
+visit to the Alaskan glaciers and icebergs would well repay any one's
+time and effort; but, when the tourist travels through the greatest
+Wonderland of the wide West to reach these curious sights, he or she
+will be paid over and over tenfold.
+
+So far everything may be seen from the decks of an elegant steamer; but,
+should the tourist want a little "roughing it," let him stop over in
+Glacier Bay, from one steamer's visit to another, two weeks to a month
+apart, and clamber over the glaciers and row around among the icebergs
+to his heart's content, and until he almost imagines he is an arctic
+explorer. He will descend from the tumbled surface of the frozen seas of
+ice on the glacier's surface, only to wade through grass up to his
+waist, that waves in the light winds like the pretty pampas fields of
+South America. In these fields of grasses he may pitch his tent, which,
+with a cook stove and a month's rations for each person, is all that is
+needed, beyond the baggage of the other tourists. Hunting is found in
+the mountains back of the bay, fish in the waters, and small game in the
+woods near by.
+
+Or, if longer and rougher jaunts are wanted, ascend the Lynn Channel,
+and then the Chilkat, or Chilkoot, Inlet, hiring two or three Indians to
+carry one's camping effects on their backs to the lakes at the source of
+the great Yukon river of the British Northwest Territory and
+Alaska,--the third river of America. Going by the Chilkoot trail, over
+the Alaskan coast range of mountains, which will furnish Alpine climbing
+enough to suit the most eager, on snow and glacier ice, one comes to a
+series of lakes aggregating 150 miles in extent; and along these he may
+paddle and return, shooting an occasional brown or black bear, moose,
+caribou or mountain goat, while aquatic life is everywhere on these
+pretty Alpine lakes.
+
+Throughout the whole inland passage, one is passing now and then some
+Indian village, of more or less imposing appearance and numbers. In
+Alaska they all belong to a single great tribe, the T'linkit, bound
+together by a common language, but by no stronger ties, for each
+village, or cluster of villages, makes a sub-tribe, having no sympathies
+with the other, and they often war against one another.
+
+It is not often that one would want to call a tourist's attention to an
+Indian village, for the average encampment or habitation of the "noble
+red man" is not the most attractive sight or study; but, in the T'linkit
+towns, we have no such hesitation, for, in the curiosities to be seen in
+their houses and surroundings, they are certainly one of the strangest
+people on earth. They are the artistic savages of the world. In front of
+each log house, and often rearing its head much higher than it by two or
+three fold, are one or two posts, called "totem poles," which are merely
+logs on end; but, on the seaward face, the savage sculptor has exhausted
+all the resources of his barbaric imagination in cutting in hideous
+faces and figures, that, with a hundred or so such terrible "totems" in
+front of a village, makes one think of some nightmare of his childish
+days. The houses, too, are carved inside and out. Every utensil they
+have is sculptured deep with diabolical but well executed designs, and
+their spoons of mountain sheep and goat horn are marvels of savage work.
+All these are for sale to tourists, and every excursion steamer brings
+numbers of these romantic remembrances of a yet more romantic journey
+back to civilization.
+
+But the inland passage to Alaska is not the only grand and picturesque
+part of that great territory visited by the excursion steamers; for
+beyond and as far as Mount St. Elias, they often sail to this the
+greatest cluster of high mountains on the Western Continent,--Lituya
+Peak, 10,000 feet high; and Fairweather and Crillon, a third taller;
+then beyond, Cook and Vancouver cluster near sublime St. Elias, nearly
+20,000 feet above the ocean that thunders at its base, and whose jagged
+top may be seen a hundred and fifty miles to sea. How disappointing are
+the Colorado peaks of 12,000 and 14,000 feet to one, for the simple
+reason that they spring from a plain already 6,000 to 8,000 feet above
+sea-level, and seem, as they are, but high hills on a high plateau. How
+like pygmies they appear to Hood, Tacoma, Shasta, and others not so high
+above the ocean base line, but whose nearly every foot above sea-level
+is in mountain slope. How grand, then, must be hoary-headed St. Elias,
+whose waist is the waters of the wide sea, and whose 20,000 feet above
+sea-level springs from the Pacific Ocean, from whose calm waters we view
+its majestic height.
+
+But let us commence at the starting point of our journey, and take our
+readers step by step over the whole route.
+
+For many years the people of our great Northwest country, Oregon,
+Washington and Idaho Territories, have spoken familiarly of "the Sound"
+as one of their great geographical features,--in much the same way as
+the people of Southern Connecticut or Long Island speak of "the
+Sound,"--referring thereby to Puget Sound, that cuts deep into the
+northwestern corner of Washington Territory. Many have visited it, and
+sailed on its beautiful waters; beautiful enough in themselves or their
+own immediate surroundings, but thrice grand and gorgeous in their
+silver framing of snow-clad peaks and mountain ranges, surrounding them
+on all sides. The long, narrow, picturesque sound, that looked not
+unlike a Greenland fjord, or close-walled bay at the mouth of some grand
+river,--one of those bays so slowly converging that a person can hardly
+define where it ceases and the river commences,--was considered one of
+the most beautiful and scenic places of the Northwest; and its people
+delighted to show it to strangers, with its enhancing surroundings,
+reaching from the prettily situated capital of the Territory, Olympia,
+at the head of "the sound," to where the broad Juan de Fuca Strait leads
+to the great Pacific Sea. Then Alaska was known only as Russian America,
+when it was spoken of at all, so seldom was it heard, and seemed to be
+as far away from the United States on that side of the continent, and as
+little thought of, as Greenland or Iceland is to-day with our people of
+the Atlantic coast. An occasional Hudson's Bay Company trading boat
+steamed out of Victoria harbor, and disappeared northward, crawling
+through a maze of intricate inland channels and Alpine-like waterways to
+some distant and seemingly half-mythical trading post of that lonesome
+land; but, as to anything definite as to where she was going, as little
+was known by the people as if an arctic expedition was leaving the
+harbor of New York or Boston, and not one hundredth of the _furor_ was
+made about the departure, if, in fact, any notice was taken of it at
+all. With the accession of Alaska, through the efforts of Secretary
+Seward and Senator Sumner, the discovery of the Cassiar mines, in
+British Columbia, but which must be reached through Alaska, and a few
+other minor incentives, set many people to looking northward; they then
+found that they could continue their trips on a long inland salt-water
+river, of which the well-known Puget Sound was but a small part,--hardly
+the equivalent of Narragansett Bay taken from Long Island Sound, or
+Green Bay from Lake Michigan. Not that these were the first explorations
+and discoveries of importance in the inland passage and its surrounding
+woods and waters, by any manner of means. Cook and Clerke, as early as
+1776; Dixon, from 1785 to 1788; Langsdorff, in 1803-8; La Perouse, in
+1785-88; Lisianski, from 1803 to 1806; Meares, of the Royal navy, from
+1788 to 1789; and especially Vancouver, from 1790 to 1795,--had all
+peeped into this part of the country, and many of the explorations and
+surveys were of the most extended nature; but, at about the time of
+which I speak, the knowledge of the inland passage to the bulk of the
+people, even in these parts so near to it, was nearly as musty as the
+old volumes on the library shelves that gave the most information. In
+fact, but little knowledge or interest was to be found regarding these
+parts. Their history of development from that embryonic state where
+everything told is regarded as bordering on the mythical, to where a
+line of ocean steamers visits them with crowded passenger lists, is the
+usual history of such developments.
+
+The inland passage to Alaska may be said to practically extend from
+Tacoma, in Washington Territory, at the head of Puget Sound, to Chilkat,
+Alaska, at the head of Lynn Channel, a distance of nearly 1,100 miles,
+where the tourist taking a sea voyage has high shores in close proximity
+on either side of him, except a few places here and there, where a short
+communication with the ocean outside is to be had. But this "inland
+passage," so called, is not the only one leading between the points
+named. It is, rather, a Broadway in New York City, a Pennsylvania avenue
+in Washington, State street in Chicago,--i. e., the main way; but every
+few miles a vessel could turn off down another passage as readily as a
+pedestrian or vehicle could down a side street, and, continuing a short
+way, return to the main thoroughfare again. Probably all the channels
+and straits and sounds and inlets in this part of Alaska, British
+Columbia and Washington Territory, susceptible of navigation by
+fair-sized ocean and river steamers, and all of them connecting with
+each other in a perfect network of waterways, would, if placed end to
+end, reach from a quarter to a third of the way around the world. Many
+of them are so illy charted--or not charted at all--that no craft of
+value would trust herself to follow their courses, while some of the
+smaller ways, but probably none the less picturesque, have yet to bear
+the first white man on their bosom. The most picturesque of all the ways
+through this intricacy of picturesque channels has been selected,
+carefully surveyed, and experienced pilots conduct the vessels to and
+from Alaska on its waters. The whole length of the passage is heavily
+timbered with various kinds of pine, fir, hemlock, cedar and spruce.
+Here and there avalanches from the mountain tops have swept through the
+dense timber, like a sickle through so much grain; and, although in a
+few years the growth is restored, yet the varying shades of green in the
+old and new growth of trees, running in perpendicular stripes up the
+steep hillsides, plainly show the ancient and recent devastations.
+Prettily situated Indian villages dot the narrow, shelving shores at
+rare intervals along the passage; and, when these nomads of the
+Northwest are seen, which is not infrequent, the chances are more than
+likely that it will be in a canoe, where they spend two-thirds of their
+out-of-door life.
+
+Says the "American Cyclopædia," speaking of this interesting part of
+Washington Territory, the southern part of the inland passage:
+"Washington Territory possesses a great multitude of harbors, perhaps
+more than any other country of equal extent on the globe. Puget Sound,
+which has an average width of two miles, never less than one nor more
+than four, and a depth never less than eight fathoms, runs 100 miles
+inland in a southward direction from the Straits of Fuca; and Hood's
+Canal, twelve miles further west, with half the width, runs in the same
+general direction about 60 miles. These two great estuaries, or arms of
+tidewater, have depth sufficient for the largest vessels, and numerous
+bends and corners where the most perfect protection may be found against
+the winds." Captain Wilkes, in the report of his famous exploring
+expedition, writes of Puget Sound: "I venture nothing in saying there is
+no country in the world that possesses waters equal to these." The Coast
+Range and Cascade Range of mountains are plainly visible from the sound.
+Near the Columbia river the Coast Range is not very high; but west of
+Hood's Canal it rises, in abrupt, beetling ridges, 7,000 to 9,000 feet
+high, called the Olympian Mountains, many of the peaks being
+snow-crowned throughout the year. The Cascade Range fairly bristles with
+snow-clad peaks from 8,000 to over 14,000 feet in height, and in every
+direction, almost, may be seen the grandest Alpine scenery in the
+distance.
+
+Steaming northward through Puget Sound from Tacoma, with Seattle and
+other towns upon our right, and Port Townsend, the port of entry to the
+sound, upon our left, we come to Juan de Fuca Strait, which would lead
+us to the Pacific Ocean were we to follow it out. It is the most
+southern of all the waterways that connect the great sea with the
+network of channels inside, and formerly was much used as a part of the
+route to Alaska or Puget Sound from Portland, Oregon, or San Francisco,
+California; the steamer putting out to sea for a day if from the former
+port, and for four or five if from the latter, the passengers having all
+the discomforts of a sea voyage for that time. Where Magellan sailed
+over the Pacific Ocean it well deserved the name; but along the rough
+northern coast the amount of stormy weather increases, and a voyage on
+this part of the Pacific is not always calculated to impress one with
+the appropriateness of the great ocean's name. The construction of the
+Northern Pacific Railroad from the Columbia river to Puget Sound has
+made these sea voyages unnecessary to reach a port on the inland
+passage; and, unless a person's stomach is built on "nautical lines," so
+that he really enjoys an ocean trip, he can save this discomfort by a
+cut across lots on a railroad train. In fact, it must be kept in mind,
+that, while the trip on the inland passage is an ocean voyage, equal to
+one from New York City to Havana and return, it is, as far as
+sea-sickness is concerned, as if the Hudson river was turned around in
+the opposite direction, and we sailed on its waters from New York to
+Havana and return; while the inland passage, in its southern part, is as
+accessible by railroad travel, to the people of the United States and
+Canada, as any point on the Hudson river. Therefore, broad Juan de Fuca
+Strait, where the pulsations of the ocean's life outside are even felt
+to its eastern end, in much diminished waves, however, carries fewer
+persons than formerly, and especially of that reluctant class who look
+uncomplainingly at the terrors of the sea, from the basis of dire
+necessity.
+
+Crossing this strait, which has led to so many controversies as to
+whether the old Greek from whom it is named actually discovered this
+beautiful body of water, or only made a lucky guess in publishing to the
+world a mythical journey of his, we sight and bear down on the beautiful
+British island of Vancouver, whose metropolis is Victoria, and alongside
+of whose docks we shall soon be made fast.
+
+Victoria, the city, was built on the site of old Fort Victoria, a Hudson
+Bay Company trading post of that great British monopoly that held nearly
+all British America under its control for two hundred years, and,
+although broken as a monopoly, has yet an influence to assist or retard
+the development of the country which is incalculable. The Fraser river
+gold mine excitement in the '50's did much to build up Victoria, and
+send it forward into the front rank of Pacific coast cities, a position
+which she has held with varying fortunes, though now, in common with the
+whole Northwest, once more on the ascending wave.
+
+Cities, like individuals, have their "hobbies," although seldom so
+prominently marked; and the municipal "hobby" of Victoria is her
+splendidly constructed roads, leading through the town and far beyond
+the suburbs, and in which she has no superior on the Pacific coast of
+North America, and but few in the world. If the steamer remains long
+enough in the harbor,--and during excursion times in the summer months
+they always do,--a drive should be taken on the Victoria roads, and
+especially the one leading to Esquimalt harbor and return, some two or
+three miles in all. It is but one, however, of the many beautiful
+drives; but it is only necessary to mention them in a general way for
+any one who would desire to test them, so readily can all needed
+information be found on the spot.
+
+In quaint little smoke-stained and dingy-looking stores in
+out-of-the-way nooks and corners of the streets are to be found the
+Victorian curiosity shops, crowded with relics of the fast-disappearing
+Indian tribes that once formed a much denser population in this part of
+the country than at present. Pretty little mats and baskets are made
+from the sea-grass, dyed with the juices from berries and other natural
+dyes, and sold for the merest trifles. Curiously carved steatite houses,
+in miniature imitation of the Indian dwellings, and "totem poles" made
+by the Hydah or Haïda Indians, are to be seen for sale. Sometimes they
+carve plaques with spread-eagles and other fanciful designs upon them;
+rude but serviceable mats from the inner bark of the cedar tree, and all
+the known--and unknown--knick-knacks that can come from the barbaric
+ingenuity of Indian art, and which would require a pamphlet larger than
+the one in the reader's hands to chronicle half. This is the beginning
+of such curious wares that will be temptingly displayed before the
+tourist at every town and stopping place on the route, and from which
+may be selected such mementoes of the journey as will please the
+individual fancy.
+
+Says a writer in the _Overland Monthly_, the _Century Magazine_ of the
+Pacific coast: "Victoria, in a rock-bound and land-protected cove, is
+the most attractive and the largest city on Vancouver's Island. During
+the days of the Fraser river excitement, Victoria was a much more
+energetic city than it is to-day. There were exciting times there then,
+and, because of the great expectations which everybody indulged in, land
+was bid up to an enormously high figure, and the town's prospects were
+considered wonderfully brilliant. But the Fraser was a fraud,
+comparatively, and its mines were quickly exhausted, so that Victoria
+received a setback, from which it is only just recovering. It is a
+picturesque town, thoroughly English, staid and conservative, and its
+location is an enviable one. In the distance rise the blue-hued heights
+of the Vancouver ranges, and nearer at hand lie the waters of Fuca
+Straits; beyond which there can be seen the snowy peaks of the
+Washington Territory mountains. Rounding the long point of land which
+juts out into the sea to form Victoria harbor, the town lay all revealed
+to us at last. In one direction were red painted shops set upon a high
+bluff overlooking the bay, and eastward there were green fields and
+trimly built cottages.
+
+"'Coming ashore?' we were asked at length.
+
+"'Not to-day,' the artist said.
+
+"'Then, don't judge Victoria until you see the place,' came the word
+from the dock.
+
+"We promised, and said that when homeward bound we would make a call."
+
+Returning, the narrator continues, "On the wharf at Victoria stood our
+friend of a month ago.
+
+"'Coming ashore?' he said, when he saw us.
+
+"'Yes.'
+
+"'Good, we can show you a pretty town. Disappointed in Alaska?'
+
+"'No; it's the grandest country for scenery I--' began the artist.
+
+"'Yes, yes, I know,' said our friend, interrupting him. 'Big glaciers,
+fine sailing, curious sights, no sea-sickness. Same old story; hear it
+every trip.'
+
+"Victoria is picturesque in every detail," continues the narrator. "The
+land faces a land-locked bay, and behind the place stretch dense
+forests, through which roadways extend to the various suburbs. During
+our stay the frosts of early fall began to color the leaves, and at
+night the air grew sharp and chill. But still the air was clear, and
+down in the harbor white-winged yachts still moved over the bluish
+waters."
+
+Vancouver Island, which forms the outlying barrier to, or seaward side
+of, the inland passage from Juan de Fuca Strait to Queen Charlotte
+Sound, is one of the largest islands in that vast archipelago which
+forms the passage, and is the largest under British dominion. It was
+called Quadra Island by the Spaniards, who held it by descent from
+Mexico (then a Spanish colony) until the latter part of the eighteenth
+century, when Vancouver, of the Royal navy, was sent from England to
+receive its surrender from the Spanish; it having been ordered by the
+home government at Madrid,--which he did from the Castilian governor,
+Quadra. Vancouver called it Quadra and Vancouver's Island; but the
+Spanish title has slowly disappeared under British rule. Vancouver
+pushed his discoveries from here to Cook's Inlet during his two or three
+years' cruise on this coast, and many of the names in the inland passage
+and adjacent lands and waters are due to his explorations made nearly a
+hundred years ago.
+
+Leaving Victoria and its picturesque surroundings behind us, we swing in
+a huge circle around the southeastern coast of Vancouver Island, until
+we are pointed northward once more.
+
+Strictly speaking, "the inland passage to Alaska, as defined by nautical
+men, now begins, Puget Sound only belonging to it in a geographical
+sense, but as similar thereto as 'peas in a pod.'" We shortly after pass
+through a congerie of pretty islands, like the Thousand Islands of the
+St Lawrence on a greatly magnified scale, when we come to the Gulf of
+Georgia, one of the widest portions of the inland passage. The islands
+we have left to the right (although it may change by the pilot not
+taking the usual route, so many are they to choose from) are the San
+Juan Islands, of far more importance than one would believe, looking at
+the unpopulated shores; at least, they were so in 1856, when the United
+States and Great Britain came very near coming to national blows about
+their possession. The matter was finally left to arbitration in the
+hands of the Emperor of Brazil, and then transferred to the present
+Emperor of Germany, who awarded them to the United States. The British
+troops then withdrew, a post of them having been on one end of the large
+island, with an American post on the other.
+
+As we steam through the Gulf of Georgia we leave the highest point
+(Point Roberts) of the United States off to our right, in the distance,
+on the forty-ninth parallel.
+
+Some forty or fifty miles farther on, and we enter the first typical
+waters of the inland passage,--Discovery Passage,--a narrow waterway
+between high, mountainous banks; a great salt-water, river-like channel,
+about a mile in breadth, and twenty-three and a half miles long by the
+British Admiralty charts. A huge yellow bluff, projecting into the sea,
+greets the eye as the passage is approached, and the great, wide channel
+to the east is the one the tourist has selected as a matter of course
+for the steamer to pursue; but she agreeably disappoints him, and enters
+the narrow, picturesque way. This Discovery Passage is a Yankee "find,"
+having first been entered by a Boston sloop, the "Washington," in 1789.
+The broad right-hand passage could have been taken, as the land to our
+right is an island (of which the yellow clay bluff is the southern
+cape), called Valdez Island after an ancient mariner who visited this
+part of the world in 1792, in the Spanish galleon "Mexicana." At first
+one is slightly nonplused at the frequency of Spanish names in these
+quarters; but, as the early history of the country is closely searched,
+the conclusion is forced on one more and more that these old Castilian
+navigators have not even got their dues, and, where their names once
+formed an honorable majority, they have slowly disappeared before the
+constant revisions of the geographers and hydrographers of another
+people, who have since acquired possession. We will come to many such
+changes of nomenclature on our interesting trip.
+
+About two miles from the entrance to Discovery Passage we come to the
+Indian Village of Yaculta, on Valdez Island. It is the first of many we
+will see before we return to Victoria again, and, like most of them, it
+is on one of the narrow, level places between the high hills and the
+deep sea that happens here and there in this Alpine country; or its
+inhabitants would have to live in the trees on the steep hillsides, or
+in their canoes on the water. The large river coming in from the
+Vancouver Island side, some five or six miles from the entrance to the
+passage, is Campbell river, and is navigable for some distance inland by
+boats and canoes.
+
+About half way through Discovery Passage we come to the Seymour Narrows,
+a contracted channel of the passage, about two miles long, and not much
+over one-fourth the previous width, where the tides rush through with
+the velocity of the swiftest rivers (said to be nine knots at
+spring-tides), a current which is so strong that it is generally
+calculated upon in departing from Victoria so as to reach this point
+about slack water. In the narrows is a submerged rock, with the
+pretty-sounding alliterative title of Ripple Rock, on which the United
+States man-of-war "Saranac" was lost in the summer of 1875. Ripple Rock
+is now so well marked that it is no longer dangerous to navigation.
+Northward from the narrows the hills rise in bold gradients, making the
+change quite noticeable, and more picturesque.
+
+Chatham Point marks the northern entrance to Discovery Passage, and here
+the tourist apparently sees the inland passage bearing off slightly to
+the east from this cape, when, with a sudden swerve to the westward, the
+ship swings around at full right angles to her original course, and
+enters a channel which a minute before seemed to be but a bay on the
+west side of the original water-way. The new channel is Johnstone
+Strait, and is over twice as long as Discovery Passage, that we have
+just left; or, to be more exact, about fifty-five miles in length. The
+shores are now getting truly mountainous in character, ridges and peaks
+on the south side bearing snow throughout the summer on their summits,
+4,000 to 5,000 feet high, and the pilot will tell you that the waters on
+which you are sailing correspond in their dimensions, in many places 100
+to 150 fathoms of line failing to reach bottom. The rough and rugged
+islands which we pass to our right, about three or four miles beyond
+Chatham Point, are the Pender Islands. The high mountains to the left
+and front are the Prince of Wales range. About fifteen to twenty miles
+after entering Johnstone Strait, a conspicuous valley is seen on
+Vancouver Island, the only break in the high mountain range on that
+side. It is the valley of a stream called Salmon river, named from that
+delicious fish, which here abound, and in the pursuit of which the
+Indians have shown this stream to be navigable for canoes for a number
+of miles inland. A conspicuous conical hill, probably a thousand feet
+high, rises in the valley and marks it to the traveler. Just beyond
+Salmon river's mouth, some three miles, the strait widens, another
+joining it from the north. The mountains to our left are now the New
+Castle range, Mount Palmerston attaining the height of 5,000 feet. At
+the northern end of Johnstone Strait we have a number of channels to
+choose from,--Blackfish Sound, Weynton Passage, Race Passage and
+Broughton Strait, the longest of all, and only fifteen miles in length,
+which we take. All these channels simply indicate that there is a
+cluster of islands where Johnstone Strait swells out into Queen
+Charlotte Sound, which we enter as Broughton Strait is left behind, and
+that as we select between different islands we take a different-named
+channel. These particular islands are the Malcolm Islands, sometimes
+confined in its application to the largest island. About half way
+through the Broughton Strait comes in the Nimpkish river from the
+Vancouver side. Mount Holdsworth is the high, conical peak we see to the
+south from here. At the mouth of the river is the Indian village of
+Cheslakee. It is said that an ascent of this river reveals the most
+picturesque scenery in lakes and falls, a saying to which all the
+surroundings in the inland passage itself, at this point, would give the
+most ample corroboration. Directly north from the river's mouth is
+Cormorant Island, which we leave to our right; and the bay in its side
+is Alert Bay, where exist a salmon cannery, an Indian mission, a wharf
+at which ships can land, and other signs of civilization.
+
+[Illustration: SCENES IN THE INLAND PASSAGE.
+
+From Schwatka's "Along Alaska's Great River," Cassell & Co. New York.
+Publisher]
+
+Queen Charlotte Sound is one of the few openings to the Pacific Ocean.
+It is about fifty miles long, and, in some places, nearly half as wide,
+and looks like getting out to sea after having passed through the narrow
+channels just left behind. It was entered and named by Wedgeborough in
+the summer of 1786; so those visitors of 1886 to its grand waters may
+celebrate its centennial, and drink a toast to Queen Charlotte, the
+queen of King George III., and queen for fifty-seven years. About nine
+or ten miles on its waters, and to our left, is Fort Rupert, a Hudson
+Bay Company's trading post, with a large Indian village clustered around
+it. Here fruits and vegetables are grown for the local demand. About
+half way through Queen Charlotte Sound, and we pass through a narrow
+channel, twenty-two miles long, named Goletas Channel. Emerging from it,
+we leave Cape Commerell on our left side, and bid good-bye to Vancouver
+Island, for this is its northernmost cape. Near the exit from Goletas
+Channel, but by another passage, now seldom used, is where the United
+States man-of-war "Suwanee" was wrecked, on a submerged rock, in July,
+1869, when the inland passage was not so well known by pilots as it is
+now. We can now look out to sea toward the Pacific Ocean; but a short
+journey plunges us into one of the many passages ahead of us, the
+smallest, or one nearest the mainland, being taken, called Fitzhugh
+Sound. It was named in 1786 by Captain Hanna, is about forty miles long,
+and with a width of about three miles. The first island to our left on
+entering is Calvert Island. About ten miles from its southern cape is an
+indentation in the island, called Safety Cove or Port Safety, probably a
+mile deep. It was while delayed in this picturesque little harbor, in
+1885, that Mr. Charles Hallock, the well-known author on piscatorial
+pursuits, penned the following lines, descriptive of the inland passage,
+which we find in the _American Angler_ of September, 1885:
+
+"The mainland is flanked throughout nearly its entire extent by a belt
+of islands, of which the majority are sea-girt mountains. Of course,
+throughout this extended coast-line there are many islands of many
+different phases,--some of them mere rocks, to which the kelps cling for
+dear life, like stranded sailors in a storm; while others are gently
+rounded mounds, wooded with fir; and others, still, precipitous cliffs
+standing breast deep in the waves. Most aptly has this wave-washed
+region been termed an archipelago of mountains and land-locked seas.
+Steaming through the labyrinths of straits and channels which seem to
+have no outlets; straining the neck to scan the tops of snow-capped
+peaks which rise abruptly from the basin where you ride at anchor;
+watching the gambols of great whales, thresher-sharks and herds of
+sea-lions, which seem as if penned up in an aquarium, so completely are
+they enclosed by the shadowy hills,--one seems, indeed, in a new
+creation, and watches the strange forms around him with an intensity of
+interest which almost amounts to awe.
+
+"In this weird region of bottomless depths, there are no sand beaches or
+gravelly shores. All the margins of mainland and islands drop down plump
+into inky fathoms of water, and the fall of the tide only exposes the
+rank yellow weeds which cling to the damp crags and slippery rocks, and
+the mussels and barnacles which crackle and hiss when the lapping waves
+recede. * * * * * When the tide sets in, great rafts of algæ, with stems
+fifty feet long, career along the surface; millions of jelly-fish and
+anemones crowded as closely as the stars in the firmament; great
+air-bulbs, with streamers floating like the long hair of female corpses;
+schools of porpoises and fin-back whale rolling and plunging headlong
+through the boiling foam; all sorts of marine and Mediterranean fauna
+pour in a ceaseless surge, like an irresistible army. Hosts of gulls
+scream overhead, or whiten the ledges, where they squat content or run
+about feeding.
+
+"Here and there along the almost perpendicular cliffs the outflow of the
+melting snow in the pockets of the mountains leaps down in dizzy
+waterfalls from heights that are higher than the Yosemite. From the
+cañons which divide the foot-hills, cascades pour out into the brine,
+and all their channels are choked with salmon crowding toward the upper
+waters. I could catch them with my hands as long as my strength endured,
+so helpless and infatuated are these creatures of predestination. At the
+heads of many of these rivulets there are lakes in which dwell salmon
+trout, spotted with crimson spots as large as a pea; and the rainbow
+trout, with his iridescent lateral stripe; and his cousin germain, the
+'cut-throat trout,' slashed with carmine under the gills. And there is
+another trout, most familiar to the eye in Eastern waters, and doubly
+welcome to the sight in this far-off region--the _Salvelinus
+Canadensis_, or 'sea-trout,' which I have recognized these many years as
+a separate species. * * * Here he is in his garniture of crimson, blue
+and gold, just like his up-stream neighbors of New England and the
+Provinces. * *
+
+"The seas are full of strange species. Here the family _Percidæ_ is
+regnant and supreme among the food fishes. The number of species and
+varieties is remarkable. Here are the _Embiotocidæ_, or _viviparous_
+perch, which bring forth their young in litters, like cats or dogs, to
+the number of eight to forty at a time. There are no less than seventeen
+known varieties of them. Here, also, are at least fifteen varieties of
+_Scorpænidæ_, all fine table fish, which are locally known as rock-cod,
+groupers and snappers, but having no close relations at all to the
+family of _Gadidæ_. I send herewith the differential characteristics of
+four of them taken near our present berth, in latitude 51 degrees 30
+minutes. The scarlet snapper seems very closely allied to the _Lutjanus
+Blackfordi_ of Eastern Florida and the Gulf of Mexico, from which he
+could scarcely be distinguished in appearance. The others are all fish
+of brilliant colors. No. 2 can scarcely be distinguished from the
+fresh-water bass of the lakes lying west of the Mississippi,--the
+_Micropterus_,--either in form, fin system or color. At Sitka I found a
+fish of exactly the same shape, but black as a sea-bass of the Atlantic
+(_Centropristis atrarius_). No. 4 belongs, I believe, to the family of
+_Chiridæ_, and is locally known as a sea-trout. * * * These fish take
+salmon roe, clams, sand-worms, crabs, meat and cut-fish bait. The black
+bass of Sitka is taken alongshore with a trolling spoon. * * * The other
+fish were taken chiefly in thirty fathoms of water on the young flood
+tide.
+
+"Besides these fish, we have taken halibut, two kinds of flounder,
+skates, dogfish of several kinds and strange shapes, sharks, sculpins,
+etc.; some of the sculpins were beautifully marked in blue, red and
+brown. * * I have had several of the species painted in oil, and will
+forward them to the Smithsonian, with descriptions."
+
+But let us leave this piscatorial paradise, as painted by one who is an
+artist in his line, and wend our way through the forty miles of Fitzhugh
+Sound. Then comes Lama Passage, contracted, winding and picturesque,
+about fourteen or fifteen miles long. About half way through we pass
+very near the Indian village of Bella-Bella, and which is also a Hudson
+Bay Company trading post. The Bella-Bellas were once a large tribe
+living in these parts; but the little village, of about twenty Indian
+houses, that the tourist passes on his left, represents the greater
+portion of the tribe at present, and gives one a practical and forcible
+illustration of the disappearance of "the noble red man." A mission
+residence and a church, with the cattle on the cleared hills, give the
+place quite a civilized aspect. After Lama Passage comes Seaforth
+Channel, just as winding and pretty; the swingings to the right and
+left, in places where the passage is apparently right ahead, increase
+your respect for the pilot, and you wonder, in all these intricacies,
+like Goldsmith's village schoolmaster, "how one small head could carry
+all he knew." At Milbank Sound we look out to sea for a brief half-hour,
+and then plunge into Finlayson Channel, a typical waterway of the inland
+passage, like a great river. The sides are very high mountains, densely
+timbered nearly to the top, where snow exists the year round, forming a
+base of supplies for the beautiful waterfalls that dash down the
+precipitous heights, like silvery columns, on a deep green background.
+It is said that all the little streams of this region swarm with salmon,
+giving the Indians a most bountiful supply. Then comes Graham Reach,
+about twenty miles long; then Fraser Reach, of ten miles; and McKay
+Reach, of seven,--that could all have been given a single name, and much
+trouble have been saved. A little, irregular sheet of water, called
+Wright Sound, and Grenville Channel, "as straight as an arrow," gives us
+nearly fifty miles of rectilinear sailing.
+
+We are now getting far enough north to make the sight of snow a familiar
+one, and the dense timber is striped with perpendicular windrows, where
+large avalanches have cut their way through them in the winter, when the
+snow falls heavily in these parts. Chatham Sound is the last channel we
+essay in British domain, and a royal old sheet of water it is, with a
+width of nearly ten miles, and about three or four times as long. After
+about three hours on its bosom a great channel is opened east and west
+before us, on which the swells from the broad Pacific enter. This is
+Dixon Entrance, and the boundary between British Columbia and Alaska
+beyond, whose blue mountains we see in the distance. The islands still
+continue; and the number, in this part of Alaska alone, has been
+estimated at eleven hundred, and this, too, excludes the rocks and
+islets. Clarence Strait is the main channel as soon as Alaskan waters
+are entered; but there are others on both sides of it which may be
+taken. It is a little over a hundred miles long, and somewhat variable
+in its width. It was named by Vancouver, nearly a hundred years ago,
+after the Duke of Clarence. From Clarence Strait we enter Stickeen
+Strait; for most of the steamers call at Wrangell, and this bends us off
+of our course.
+
+Wrangell is a tumble-down, dilapidated-looking town, in a most
+beautifully picturesque situation, and the first impression is to make
+one ashamed of the displays of the human race compared with those of
+nature. It is the port to the Cassiar mines; or, better speaking, it
+was, for they have seen their palmiest days, a fact which is quite
+evident on looking at their dependency, the town of Wrangell. The
+Cassiar mines are in British Columbia, and to reach them the Stickeen
+river, emptying near Wrangell, must be ascended, itself a most
+picturesque stream, and one well worth visiting if the tourist can catch
+one of the little boats that yet occasionally depart from Wrangell to
+ascend the rushing, impetuous river. Says one writer of it, in the
+Philadelphia _Dispatch_: "The Stickeen is navigable for small steamers
+to Glenora, one hundred and fifty miles, flowing first in a general
+westerly direction, through grassy, undulating plains, darkened here and
+there with patches of evergreens; then, curving southward, and receiving
+numerous tributaries from the north, it enters the Coast Range, and
+sweeps across it to the sea through a Yosemite valley more than a
+hundred miles long, and one to three miles wide at the bottom, and from
+five thousand to eight thousand feet deep, marvelously beautiful and
+inspiring from end to end. To the appreciative tourist, sailing up the
+river through the midst of it all, the cañon, for a distance of one
+hundred and ten miles, is a gallery of sublime pictures,--an unbroken
+series of majestic mountains, glaciers, falls, cascades, forests,
+groves, flowery garden spots, grassy meadows in endless variety of form
+and composition,--furniture enough for a dozen Yosemites! while, back of
+the walls, and thousands of feet above them, innumerable peaks and
+spires and domes of ice and snow tower grandly into the sky. About
+fifteen miles above the mouth of the river you come to the first of the
+great glaciers, pouring down through the forest in a shattered
+ice-cascade nearly to the level of the river. Twelve miles above this
+point a noble view is opened along the Skoot river cañon--a group of
+glacier-laden Alps, from ten thousand to twelve thousand feet high.
+Thirty-five miles above the mouth of the river the most striking object
+of all comes in sight; this is the lower expansion of the great glacier,
+measuring about six miles around the 'snout,' pushed boldly forward into
+the middle of the valley among the trees, while its sources are mostly
+hidden. It takes its rise in the heart of the range, some thirty or
+forty miles away. Compared with this, the Swiss _mer de glace_ is a
+small thing. It is called the 'Ice Mountain.' The front of the snout is
+three hundred feet high, but rises rapidly back for a few miles to a
+height of about one thousand feet. Seen through gaps in the trees
+growing on one of its terminal moraines, as one sails slowly along
+against the current, the marvelous beauty of the chasms and clustered
+pinnacles shows to fine advantage in the sunshine."
+
+Wrangell's log-cabin backwoods stores are good places to search for
+Indian relics, the Stickeen Indians living in the vicinity being the
+most prolific in the manufacture of these savage curios. Leaving
+Wrangell, a westward-trending strait (Sumner Strait, after Senator
+Sumner) of forty or fifty miles carries us directly out to the Pacific
+Ocean; but an hour's run finds us turning into another passage,--Chatham
+Strait,--one of the largest of the almost innumerable channels of the
+inland passage, and which points squarely to the north. It is nearly one
+hundred and fifty miles long, and about five or six miles wide. It was
+named by Vancouver, about the end of last century, after the then Earl
+of Chatham, and is a most noble sheet of water.
+
+Formerly the pilots used to go around Cape Ommaney, and put out to sea
+in order to reach Sitka, although there was a channel leading from
+Chatham Strait thereto which saved the roughness of a sea voyage. It was
+shunned, however, by most of them, and, in getting the ominous name of
+Peril Strait, certain supposed dangers were thought to be lurking in it.
+Captain Carroll, who has spent half an ordinary lifetime in these
+waters, and done much toward practically determining their navigability,
+found that most of the peril was in the name,--at least to ships under
+his management,--and Peril Straits[A] are used nearly altogether now,
+making Sitka, though facing the Pacific Ocean, practically on the inland
+passage.
+
+    [A] The Russian name is Destruction or Pernicious Straits
+    (the reason for which appears further on), and, in its improper
+    translation to Peril Straits, many people supposed the name was
+    given on account of its dangerous navigation.
+
+Just before entering Peril Straits,--by the way, one of the most
+charming of the many channels described,--we stop at a little place
+ensconced in a narrow inlet of Chatham Strait, called Killisnoo. At
+Killisnoo the Northwest Trading Company, of Portland, Oregon, have
+erected quite extensive works for the capture and curing of cod-fish,
+which has made this something of a port, at least for Alaska. There is
+also a phosphate factory here, where phosphates are made from herring,
+after the oil is extracted. This company formerly caught whales in this
+strait; but I understand the enterprise has been partially, or wholly,
+given up as not paying; or, at least, in proportion to the new
+enterprises they have more recently opened. Around this part of
+Admiralty Island are the Kootznahoo Indians, who have been quite a
+warlike band of savages in the past, but have been quite mollified by an
+incident in their troubles, which I will give in the language of a
+correspondent to the New York _Times_, of November 23, 1884:
+
+"The Kootznahoo village, near the fishing station of Killisnoo, was the
+scene of the latest naval battle and bombardment on the coast, two years
+ago. A medicine man of the tribe who went out in a whale-boat was killed
+by the explosion of a bomb harpoon, and the Indians demanded money or a
+life as an equivalent for their loss. The Killisnoo traders did not
+respect this Indian law of atonement, and the Indians seized a white man
+for hostage. Finding that the hostage had only one eye, they declared
+him _cultus_ (bad), and sent word that they must have a whole and sound
+man, or his equivalent in blankets, to make up for their lost medicine
+man. They threatened the massacre of the settlement, and word was sent
+to Sitka for help. Captain Merriman, United States navy, went over with
+the revenue cutter 'Corwin' and the steamer 'Favorite,' and made a
+counter demand for blankets as a guarantee for their future peace and
+quiet. Failing to respond, he carried out his threat of shelling their
+village, the Indians having improved their hours of delay by removing
+their canoes, valuables and provisions. Most of the houses were
+destroyed, and the humbled Indians came to terms, and have been the most
+penitent and reliable friends of the whites ever since. They have built
+their houses now around the Killisnoo settlement; and, although Captain
+Merriman left the Territory some time ago, they all speak of him as the
+best of _tyees_, and the settlers say that the naval battle of Killisnoo
+has made life and property more secure throughout the Territory."
+
+[Illustration: AN ALASKA INDIAN HOUSE WITH TOTEM POLES.]
+
+At present the inland passage in the Territory and British Columbia is
+as safe from Indians as Broadway, in New York City, or State street,
+Chicago. In no place in the world of which I know, or have ever heard,
+are the facilities for studying Indian life so good for those who only
+spend a tourist's jaunt among them. Many people along the far Western
+railroads will remember seeing here and there a dirty group of assorted
+Indians, begging for alms, and taking full advantage of all the
+silver-plated sympathy showered upon them in that metal; for they were
+parts of the curious scenes to behold. Generally they were a slim
+delegation from some far-away agency, and a person living in Washington,
+where the Indian chiefs occasionally visit in their full regalia, would
+have a better chance to see typical Indians than the tourist, unless he
+left the road and visited their agencies, a journey of toil and trouble,
+and less welcome if the agent be a stranger. Alaska is widely different.
+From its mountainous, Alpine nature, living inland is out of the
+question; and the Indians seek the few narrow beaches and low points
+scattered here and there through the inland passage as the places
+whereon to build their little villages, and these are in as full view to
+the passing steamer as New York and Brooklyn are to a boat going up or
+down the East river channel. At rarer intervals more extensive plats of
+level or rolling land have been found; and at some of these, in
+proximity to certain places where business pursuits are carried on,
+white men have erected their little towns; and around these, again, the
+Indians have clustered their curious cabins in the most friendly way,
+giving the greatest access to tourists during even the short time that
+vessels stop at the ports to load and unload their freight. At Wrangell,
+Sitka, Pyramid Harbor, etc., are to be seen villages of Stickeens,
+Sitkas, Chilkats, Kootznahoos, etc., in close juxtaposition. In the
+_Polaris_, of Portland, Oregon, under date of November 19, 1881, I find
+the following description of the old Stickeen village, just below
+Wrangell, from the pen of the Rev. Dr. Lindsley, a well-known divine and
+missionary of the Northwest:
+
+"The next day we went to the site of the old Stickeen town. It was a
+beautiful situation, looking out upon the sea, sheltered and with sunny
+exposure. In the bay were several islands. One of them was kept sacred
+as a burial place. The tombs were visible at a distance. These were
+strong boxes raised above the ground for protection, built in the shape
+of houses, sometimes painted, and within which the remains are
+deposited. We could not but admire the rude taste, as well as the
+sentiments which were thus conveyed. The buildings were falling into
+decay; but enough remained to impress us with the fact that their
+mechanical skill was of no recent origin. The Stickeens have occupied
+the site for generations past; and here were immense wooden houses that
+might have been standing a century ago, judging from the condition of
+the wooden buildings which I had examined on the Atlantic coast, and
+which are known to have been erected before the Revolutionary War. Those
+buildings were frail; these, built of massive timbers and posts of from
+two to three feet in diameter, some round, and others squared. The
+planks for the floors were several inches thick. The mortise and tenon
+work in the frames joined with accuracy, and other mechanical
+contrivances appeared in these structures. All were large, and some
+immense. I measured one house sixty by eighty feet.
+
+[Illustration: T'LINKET BASKET WORK.
+
+(Made by the Indians of the Inland Passage.)]
+
+"The domestic life is patriarchal, several families being gathered under
+one roof. Genealogies were kept for ages, and honors and distinctions
+made hereditary. To mark these, insignia, like a coat-of-arms, were
+adopted, and in rude carvings they strove to represent them. I could
+decipher, also, the paintings that once figured these upon the posts and
+sides of houses. The eagle, the whale, the bear and the otter, and other
+animals of sea and land, were the favorites, ofttimes coupled with a
+warrior in the attitude of triumph. Gigantic representations of these
+family emblems were erected near the house, on posts, twenty to thirty
+feet high, covered with carvings of animals, and the devices stained
+with permanent pigments of black, red and blue. [See illustration on
+page 66, which is the front of a chief's house at Kaigan village.]
+Imaginary creatures resembling griffins or dragons, and reminding you of
+the mammoth animals that flourished in a distant geological period, were
+carved on the posts or pictured on the walls. Raised figures resembling
+hieroglyphics and Asiatic alphabets were carved on the inside wall. Some
+of the posts containing the family coat-of-arms, thus highly carved and
+decorated according to the native taste, were used as receptacles for
+the remains of the dead, gathered up after cremation. Great sacredness
+was attached to them. To injure one was to insult the family to which it
+belonged; to cut one down was an unpardonable offense.
+
+"The description which I have now given will answer, with some
+unimportant differences, for the native houses as they are found
+elsewhere."
+
+Of the readiness of these Indians to give exhibitions of their savage
+manners and customs for their visitors,--and which one will seldom see
+elsewhere, and never with so little trouble and effort on the
+spectator's part,--Dr. Lindsley says: "By previous invitation, the
+missionaries and their guests assembled at the house of Tow-ah-att, a
+_tyee_, or chief of the Stickeen tribe. An exhibition of manners and
+customs had been prepared for us, to show us what Indian life had been.
+* * * The insignia on Tow-ah-att's house were the eagle and wolf,
+marking the union of two families. A brief address of welcome introduced
+the entertainment. Among the customs shown to us by the dramatic
+representation, were a warrior with blackened face, with spear and
+helmet, and with belt containing a two-edged knife, or dagger; a chief
+in full dress made of skins and a robe made of the wool of a mountain
+sheep. [For this robe see the illustration on page 81.] Each of these
+presented an imposing appearance. After these, masks and effigies
+appeared; next, a _potlatch_ dance, in which a large number of the
+natives of both sexes engaged. This was followed by dances which were
+used only upon notable occasions which might be called sacred or
+religious. These dances and the chants were regarded by the natives with
+a species of veneration. We were struck with the comparative excellence
+of the singing which accompanied these dances, displaying a considerable
+amount of culture. Evidently much practice had been bestowed upon the
+art, as the large number, young and old, who engaged in them, observed
+the musical rests and parts with great precision. A large number of
+whites and Indians were present at this entertainment, and the house was
+not crowded. Our entertainers observed some formalities which could do
+no discredit to the most enlightened assemblies. After an address of
+welcome, and short speeches from visitors, one of the chiefs,
+Tow-ah-att, delivered a formal discourse."
+
+Mr. Ivan Petroff, a Russian, of Alaska, who was deputized by the
+Superintendent of the United States Census of 1880 to collect statistics
+for his report regarding Alaska Territory, finds the following
+interesting items regarding the Indian tribes which the tourist will
+encounter in his trip to Southeastern Alaska:
+
+"The outward characteristics of the T'linkit tribe may be enumerated as
+follows: The coarse, stiff, coal-black hair, dark eyebrows, but faintly
+delineated over the large black eyes full of expression; protruding
+cheek bones; thick, full lips (the under lips of the women disfigured by
+the custom of inserting round or oval pieces of wood or bone), and the
+septum of the men pierced for the purpose of inserting ornaments;
+beautiful white teeth; ears pierced not only in the lobes, but all
+around the rim. To these may be added the dark color of the skin, a
+medium stature, and a proud, erect bearing (this only applies to the
+men). The hands of the women are very small, and large feet are rarely
+met with.
+
+"Before their acquaintance with the Russians, the only clothing of the
+T'linkits consisted of skins sewed together, which they threw around
+their naked bodies without regard to custom or fashion. In addition to
+this, they wore, on festive occasions, blankets woven out of the fleeces
+of mountain goats. From time immemorial they have possessed the art of
+dyeing this material black and yellow by means of charcoal and a kind of
+moss called _sekhone_. The patterns of these blankets, wrought in
+colors, exhibit an astonishing degree of skill and industry; the hat,
+plaited of roots, is also ornamented with figures and representations of
+animals.
+
+"Both men and women paint their faces black and red with charcoal or
+soot, and vermilion (cinnabar), which are their favorite colors. They
+are mixed with seal oil, and rubbed well into the cuticle; subsequently,
+figures and patterns are scratched upon this surface with sticks of
+wood. The wealthy T'linkits paint their faces every day, while the
+plebeians indulge in this luxury only occasionally. As a rule, the
+T'linkits of both sexes go barefooted.
+
+"The men pierce the partition of the nose, the operation being performed
+in early childhood, frequently within a few weeks after birth. In the
+aperture thus made a silver ring is sometimes inserted large enough to
+cover the mouth; but the poorer individuals insert other articles, such
+as feathers, etc. They also pierce the lobes of the ear for the purpose
+of inserting shark's teeth, shells, and other ornaments, while through
+the holes around the rim of the ear they draw bits of red worsted or
+small feathers. Veniaminoff states that each hole in the ear was pierced
+in memory of some event or deed.
+
+"The ornamentation of the under lip of a female (now almost obsolete)
+marked an epoch in her life. As long as she remained single she wore
+this; but, as soon as she was married, a larger piece of wood or bone
+was pressed into the opening, and annually replaced by a still larger
+one, the inner side being hollowed out. It was, of course, impossible
+for these individuals to close their mouths, the under lip protruding,
+distended by the disk of wood or bone.
+
+"Veniaminoff states that among the T'linkits the married women are
+permitted to have what are called 'assistant husbands,' who are
+maintained by the wives. Among the T'linkits the office of vice-husband
+can only be filled by a brother or near relative of the husband.
+
+"The T'linkits burn their dead upon funeral pyres, with the exception of
+the bodies of shamans, or sorcerers, which are deposited in boxes
+elevated on posts. The dead slave is not considered worthy of any
+ceremony whatever; his corpse is thrown into the sea like the carcass of
+a dog. When a T'linkit dies his relatives prepare a great feast,
+inviting a multitude of guests, especially if the deceased has been a
+chief or a wealthy member of a clan. The guests are chosen only from a
+strange clan; for instance, if the deceased belonged to the Raven clan,
+the guests must be from the Wolf clan, and _vice versa_. No certain
+time is set for the cremation or for the festivities; this depends
+altogether upon the magnitude of the preparations. Poor people who are
+unable to defray the cost of such ceremonies, take their dead to some
+distant cove or bay, and burn them without any display. When the guests
+have assembled and the pyre has been erected, the corpse is carried out
+of the village by invited guests, and placed upon the fagots. The pyre
+is then ignited in the presence of the relatives; but these latter take
+no active part, confining themselves to crying, weeping and howling. On
+such occasions many burn their hair, placing the head in the flames;
+others cut the hair short, and smear the face with the ashes of the
+deceased. When the cremation of the body has been accomplished, the
+guests return to the dwelling of the deceased, and seat themselves with
+the widow, who belongs to their clan, around the walls of the hut; the
+relatives of the deceased then appear with hair burned and cropped,
+faces blackened and disfigured, and place themselves within the circle
+of guests, sadly leaning upon sticks with bowed heads, and then begin
+their funeral dirges with weeping and howling. The guests take up the
+song when the relatives are exhausted, and thus the howling is kept up
+for four nights in succession, with only a brief interruption for
+refreshment. During this period of mourning, if the deceased had been a
+chief, or wealthy, the relatives formerly killed one or two slaves,
+according to the rank of the dead, in order to give him service in the
+other world. At the end of the period of mourning, or on the fourth day
+following the cremation, the relatives wash their blackened faces and
+paint them with gay colors, at the same time making presents to all the
+guests, chiefly to those who assisted in burning the corpse. Then the
+guests are feasted again, and the ceremony is at an end. The heir of the
+deceased is his sister's son, or, if he has no such relative, a younger
+brother. The heir was compelled to marry the widow."
+
+While I was at Chilkat the chief of the Crow clan was cremated with most
+savage ceremonials, no doubt well worth seeing, to which I was invited;
+but my preparations for my expedition kept me from accepting the
+invitation.
+
+[Illustration: SITKA, ALASKA.]
+
+Leaving Killisnoo, we cross Chatham Strait almost at right angles to its
+course (or due west), here about ten miles wide, and enter Peril
+Straits, about thirty-five miles long. They sweep boldly to the north in
+a great arc, and, like all winding and rapidly and alternately widening
+and narrowing of the inland channels, they are extremely picturesque,
+more from the contrast of different scenes so swiftly changed before
+one's eyes, than from anything radically new so presented. The old
+Russian name for them was Paboogni (meaning "pernicious") Strait, and
+they got this title rather from an incident of appetite than bad
+navigation. In the latter part of last century the Russians used to
+import the poor Aleuts of the Aleutian Islands, far to the westward, as
+mercenaries to fight their battles for them against the T'linkit Indians
+of this region; and, while encamped here, they partook of a large number
+of mussels, which proved poisonous, killing some, and putting many on
+the sick list for that particular campaign. In some of the very
+contracted places the tides run with great velocity; but, by taking
+advantage of the proper times (which the nearness of Killisnoo on one
+side and Sitka on the other makes easy) and a more thorough knowledge of
+the few impediments, the dangers to navigation here are now about _nil_.
+Once through Peril Straits, we can look out on the Pacific Ocean through
+Salisbury Sound for a few minutes before turning southward through a
+series of short straits and channels "too numerous to mention;" and
+then, after twenty to twenty-five miles of sailing, we come to Sitka,
+the capital of the Territory. It is most picturesquely located at the
+head of Sitka Sound, through which, looking in a southwest direction,
+the Pacific Ocean is plainly visible. Looking in this way, its bay seems
+full of pretty little islets, sprinkled all over it, that are almost
+invisible as seen from the ocean when approaching, so densely are they
+covered with timber, and so exactly like the timbered hills of the
+mainland, against which they are thrown. The steamer, after winding its
+way through a tortuous channel, finally brings to at a commodious wharf,
+with the city before you, which is in strange contrast with the wild,
+rugged scenery through which the tourist has been sailing. To our left,
+as we pass on to the wharf, is the Indian village of the Sitkas, one of
+the largest among the islands of the inland passage. To our front and
+right stretch the white settlements of the town. At the large Indian
+village, which is near--or, really, part of--Sitka, there are estimated
+to gather fully a thousand Indians in the winter time, the summer
+finding them partially dispersed over a greater area to gain their
+sustenance. These houses are like those described as being near
+Wrangell. In one way they have somewhat patterned after white men, in
+partitioning off the ends and sides of these large rooms into sleeping
+apartments by canvas and cloth drapery. It is said that the most
+fiendish ceremonies and diabolical cruelties were practiced at their
+"house-warmings," so to speak. Before the white men put a stop to these
+ceremonies, a slave was killed, with the greatest cruelties, under each
+of the corner uprights; and, as a house could not have less than four of
+these, and sometimes had more, by its irregularities, one may
+contemplate the suffering with which a large village like that at Sitka
+has been baptized.
+
+In the town proper the Greek Church is the most conspicuous and
+interesting object to the tourist, and especially those who have never
+seen one of this religion. It is built in the form of a Greek cross, in
+plan, and is surmounted by an Oriental dome over the centre, which has
+been painted an emerald green color. One wing is used as a chapel, and
+contains, besides a curious font, an exquisite painting of the Virgin
+and Child, copied from the celebrated picture at Moscow. All the drapery
+is of silver, and the halo of gold; so, of the painting itself, nothing
+is seen but the faces and background. The chancel, which is raised above
+the body of the church, is approached by three broad steps leading to
+four doors, two of which are handsomely carved and richly gilded, and
+contain four oval and two square _bas reliefs_. Above is a large picture
+of the Last Supper, covered, like that of the Madonna, with silver, as
+are two others, one on each side of the altar. Across the threshold of
+these doors no woman may set her foot, and across the inner ones to the
+innermost sanctuary none but the priest himself, or his superiors in the
+general Greek Church, or the white Czar, can enter. The doors, however,
+usually stand open; and the priest in residence, Father Metropaulski, is
+exceedingly courteous to visitors, showing them the costly and
+magnificent vestments and the bishop's crown, almost covered with pearls
+and amethysts. The ornaments and the candelabra are all of silver, the
+walls are hung with portraits of princes and prelates, and the general
+effect is rich in the extreme.
+
+Next to the church in interest--with some visitors, probably, ranking
+before it--is the old Muscovite castle on the hill. Here, in days gone
+by, the stern Romanoff ruled this land, and Baron Wrangell, one of
+Russia's many celebrated Polar explorers, held sway. It is said that it
+has been twice destroyed, once by fire and then by an earthquake, but
+was again erected with such staunch belongings that it will probably
+stand for ages much as it is to-day. It is now used as an office for
+United States Government officials, and it has a ball-room and theatre,
+with the same old brass chandeliers and huge bronze hinges that adorned
+it in its glory. The whole building has a semi-deserted and melancholy
+appearance; but it is of exceeding interest, speaking to us as it does
+of a grander history, when Sitka was the metropolis of the Pacific coast
+of North America, and it was the centre from which such power emanated.
+To sentimental tourists I will relate a tradition that has been
+published concerning the stern old castle; and, whether it fits the
+truth or not, it fits the sombre surroundings of the ancient pile. It
+runs, that, when Baron Romanoff was governor, he had living with him an
+orphan niece and ward, who, like all orphan nieces in feudal castles,
+especially those who figure in tradition, was very beautiful. But, when
+the baron commanded her to marry a beautiful prince, who was a guest at
+the castle, she refused, having given her heart to a handsome young
+lieutenant of the household. The old baron, who, like the rest of his
+race in traditional accounts, was an accomplished diplomate, feigning an
+interest in the young lieutenant which he did not feel, sent him away on
+a short expedition, and in the mean time hurried on the preparations for
+the marriage of the unhappy girl to the prince. Deprived of the support
+of her lover's counsels and presence, she yielded to the threats of her
+uncle, and the ceremony was solemnized. Half an hour after the marriage,
+while the rejoicing and the gayety were at their height, the young
+lieutenant strode into the ball-room, his travel-stained dress and
+haggard appearance contrasting strangely with the glittering costumes
+and gay faces of the revelers; and, during the silence which followed
+his ominous appearance, he stepped up to the hapless girl, and took her
+hand. After gazing for a few moments on the ring the prince had placed
+there, he, without a word, and before any one could interfere, drew a
+dagger from his belt, and stabbed her to the heart. In the wild
+confusion that followed, he escaped from the castle; and, overcome with
+grief, unable to live without the one he so fondly loved, yet ruthlessly
+murdered, he threw himself into the sea. And now her spirit is seen on
+the anniversary of her wedding night, her slender form robed in heavy
+silk brocade, pressing her hands on the wound in her heart, the tears
+streaming from her eyes. Sometimes, before a severe storm, she makes her
+appearance in the little tower at the top of the building once used as a
+lighthouse. There she burns a light until dawn for the spirit of her
+lover at sea.
+
+[Illustration: CHANCEL OF THE GREEK CHURCH, SITKA.]
+
+Almost directly west from Sitka, about fifteen miles distant, is Mount
+Edgecumbe, so named by Cook, it having previously been called Mount San
+Jacinto by Bodega in 1775, and Mount St. Hyacinth again by La Perouse.
+Tchirikov, before all others, I believe, got it chronicled as Mount St.
+Lazarus; and it looked as if it would go through the whole calendar of
+the saints, and their different national changes, if it had not gotten
+pretty firmly rooted as Mount Edgecumbe. It is nearly 3,000 feet above
+the level of the sea, and looks like a peak of 5,000 feet cut off by a
+huge shaving plane at its present height. This truncated apex is a
+crater, said to be, by those who have visited it, some 2,000 feet in
+diameter by one-tenth as deep. In the early and middle summer time, the
+snow from its table-like crown has partially disappeared, and the bright
+red volcanic rock projects in radiating ridges from the white covering
+that is disappearing, making a most beautiful crest to a mountain
+already picturesque by its singular isolation. When in this condition,
+with the western setting sun directly over it, and its golden beams
+radiating upward, and the royal red ridges radiating downward, both
+thrown against their background of blue sky and water and white snow, it
+makes a superb picture that the brush of a Turner could hardly copy, let
+alone a feeble pen describe.
+
+Lieutenant C. E. S. Wood, who visited this portion of Alaska in 1877,
+and gave a graphic description of his travels in the _Century Magazine_
+of July, 1882, gives therein the following interesting Indian legend
+concerning Mount Edgecumbe:
+
+"One drowsy eve we saw the peak of Edgecumbe for the last time. The
+great truncated cone caught the hues of the sunset, and we could note
+the gloom gathering deeper and deeper in the hollow of the crater. Our
+Indians were stolidly smoking the tobacco we had given them, and were
+resting after the labors of the day with bovine contentment.
+Tah-ah-nah-kléck related to us the T'linkit legend of Edgecumbe.
+
+"A long time ago the earth sank beneath the water, and the water rose
+and covered the highest places, so that no man could live. It rained so
+hard that it was as if the sea fell from the sky. All was black, and it
+became so dark, that no man knew another. Then a few people ran here and
+there and made a raft of cedar logs; but nothing could stand against the
+white waves, and the raft was broken in two.
+
+"On one part floated the ancestors of the T'linkits; on the other, the
+parents of all other nations. The waters tore them apart, and they never
+saw each other again. Now their children are all different, and do not
+understand each other. In the black tempest, Chethl was torn from his
+sister Ah-gish-áhn-ahkon [The-woman-who-supports-the-earth], Chethl
+[symbolized in the osprey] called aloud to her, 'You will never see me
+again; but you will hear my voice forever!' Then he became an enormous
+bird, and flew to southwest, till no eye could follow him.
+Ah-gish-áhn-ahkon climbed above the waters, and reached the summit of
+Edgecumbe. The mountain opened, and received her into the bosom of the
+earth. That hole [the crater] is where she went down. Ever since that
+time she has held the earth above the water. The earth is shaped like
+the back of a turtle, and rests on a pillar; Ah-gish-áhn-ahkon holds the
+pillar. Evil spirits that wish to destroy mankind seek to overthrow her
+and drive her away. The terrible battles are long and fierce in the
+lower darkness. Often the pillar rocks and sways in the struggle, and
+the earth trembles and seems like to fall; but Ah-gish-áhn-ahkon is good
+and strong, so the earth is safe. Chethl lives in the bird
+Kunna-Káht-eth; his nest is in the top of the mountain, in the hole
+through which his sister disappeared.
+
+"He carries whales in his claws to this eyrie, and there devours them.
+He swoops from his hiding-place, and rides on the edge of the coming
+storm. The roaring of the tempest is his voice calling to his sister. He
+claps his wings in the peals of thunder, and its rumbling is the
+rustling of his pinions. The lightning is the flashing of his eyes."
+
+Looking inland are the glacier-clad summits of the interior mountains,
+Vostovia predominating, where few people, even among the Indians of the
+country, have ever been. Taking all its surroundings, it may be well
+said, as has been written, that Sitka Bay rivals in scenic beauty its
+nearest counterpart, the far-famed Bay of Naples. Near Sitka comes in a
+beautiful mountain stream called the Indian river. A most picturesque
+road leads out to this rambling brook, and a less frequented trail winds
+up its valley; but, if the steamer stops long enough to warrant the
+tramp, no one should fail to stroll along its two or three miles of
+winding way, embowered in absolutely tropical foliage, so dense and deep
+is it. It is the only road worthy of the name in Alaska; and, if one
+wends his way through it, and then combines his information acquired
+thereby with a view of the Alpine country of this part of the Territory,
+he will plainly comprehend why there are no more roads than this
+particular one, and feel willing to give full credit to its makers. It
+is near the half-way point of the journey, also; and this warrants a
+little inshore exercise that can be had at no other stopping place so
+well.
+
+About ten or eleven miles south of Sitka, on the mainland, but protected
+seaward by a breakwater of (Necker) islands, is Hot Springs Bay, on
+whose shores are springs which give it its name. About six or seven
+years before we obtained the Territory, the Russian American Fur
+Company, whose headquarters were at Sitka (since Baron Wrangell
+established them there in 1832), built a hospital at Hot Springs, which
+was said to have had wonderful remedial powers in skin and rheumatic
+diseases; but, for some reasons, the place has been abandoned (probably
+the lack of government by the United States), and the buildings are
+reported to be in a state of decay. The Indians used the waters for
+illness, and thus called the attention of the Russians thereto. The
+temperature of the water is from 120 to 125 degrees, and it contains a
+number of elements held in solution, as sulphur, chlorine, manganese,
+sodium and iron, besides combinations of these, and with other elements.
+It is worth a visit to see these hot springs, with the thermometer
+soaring up above the hundreds; for, in a day or two, by way of strange
+contrast, you will be among glaciers and icebergs towering as far in
+feet above your head.
+
+[Illustration: ALASKA'S THOUSAND ISLANDS, AS SEEN FROM SITKA.]
+
+The only way out of Sitka harbor, without putting to sea, is back
+through Peril Straits again; and, passing back, one can hardly realize
+that it is the same waterway, so radically different are the views
+presented. In the harbor of Sitka is Japonskoi (Japanese) Island, which
+may be identified by the captain's chart of the harbor, and which has a
+curious history. Here, about eighty years ago, an old Japanese junk,
+that had drifted across the sea on the Kuro-Siwo, or Japanese current,
+was stranded, and the Russians kindly cared for the castaway sailors who
+had survived the dreadful drift, and returned them to their country,
+after an experience that is seldom equaled, even in the romantic
+accounts of maritime misfortunes. The drifting of Japanese junks, and
+those of adjacent countries, is not so infrequent as one would suppose,
+and this fact might set the reflective man to thinking as to the
+ethnical possibilities accruing therefrom, the settlement of North
+America, etc.
+
+This Kuro-Siwo, or Japanese current,--sometimes called black current, or
+Japanese black current, from its hue,--corresponds in many ways to the
+Gulf Stream of the Atlantic: like it, its waters are warmed in the
+equatorial regions under a vertical sun; and, like it, a great portion
+of these waters are carried northward in its flow, and their heat poured
+upon the eastern shores of its ocean, till their climate is phenomenally
+temperate compared with the western shores in the same parallels. Sitka
+is said to have, as a result of facing this current, a mean winter
+temperature of a point half way between Baltimore and Washington, or
+slightly milder than the winter temperature of Baltimore. It is said to
+be no unusual thing to suffer from an ice famine in Sitka. A short way
+inland the winters are not so temperate, more snow falling at that
+season, while rain characterizes the coast face; but during the summer,
+or excursion season, these rains are not unpleasantly frequent. I take
+the following from a letter from Sitka, and published in the San
+Francisco _Bulletin_ of January 9, 1882, before this country was really
+opened to excursionists, although the subject was being discussed, so
+much had been heard of this wonderland:
+
+"The climate, as shown by the meteorological data collected by the
+signal service observers, is not of such a disagreeable character as
+some would have us believe. The scientific data collected and tabulated
+for the year 1881, as shown by the records at Sitka, Chilkoot, Juneau
+and Killisnoo, disprove most emphatically the seemingly malicious
+assertions in reference to its climate.
+
+  =========================================================================
+                      |April.|May.|June.|July.|Aug. |Sept.|Oct. |Nov.| Dec.
+  --------------------+------+----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+----+-----
+  Mean Temperature    | 42.5 |45.4|51.2 | 54.2|56.7 |54.  |46.3 |41.8|34.8
+  Max. Temperature    | 56.5 |61. |65.  | 67. |79.  |63.8 |57.8 |52.8|44.9
+  Min. Temperature    | 31.  |31. |41.  | 43. |43.9 |40.5 |32.  |22.5|14.
+  Total rainfall,     |      |    |     |     |     |     |     |    |
+  inches              |  4.21| 3.1| 1.54|  4.4| 1.98|12.11| 5.04|13.5|10.52
+  --------------------+------+----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+----+-----
+
+"A study of the above data, combined with an actual experience, compels
+the writer to admit that the summer weather of Southeastern Alaska is
+the most delightful that can be enjoyed throughout the length and
+breadth of this vast territory, and throws in the shade all the boasted
+claims of many, if not most, of the famous summer resorts in the
+'States.' There were only two days during the long, pleasant summer,
+that were rendered disagreeable by that feeling of oppressiveness caused
+by heat. The nights were cool and pleasant; the days always warm enough
+for open windows, through which the invigorating breezes from the
+snow-capped mountains or the broad Pacific, would blow at will; the
+long, bright days, when the sun disappeared only for a few hours, when
+twilight, after sunset, seemed to mingle with the rays of early dawn;
+the nights beautified by the dancing beams of the _aurora borealis_, and
+the myriad stars that seemed as if hung on invisible threads in the deep
+blue firmament. * * In regard to the summer weather, I reiterate that no
+one could possibly choose a more delightful place in which to spend a
+portion of the heated term than in making a trip through this portion of
+the Territory."
+
+"In Alaska, in midsummer," according to a late letter, "the almost
+continuous light of day shines upon bright green slopes, shaded here and
+there with dark timber belts, rising up from the deep blue waters. An
+endless variety of bright-hued flowers, the hum of insects, and
+melodious song of birds, * * * would cause a stranger, suddenly
+translated there, to think himself in any country but Alaska."--_Chicago
+Herald, 1885._
+
+When we are some five or six miles back on our northward way to Peril
+Straits, a pretty little bay, on Baronoff Island, is pointed out to us,
+on our starboard (by this time all the passengers are able seamen) side,
+called Old Harbor, or Starri-Gaven, in Russian. It was there that
+Baronoff built his first fort, called the Archangel Gabriel, in 1799,
+which, after a number of rapidly recurring vicissitudes, was
+annihilated, and its garrison massacred, by the Sitka Indians, three
+years later. Baronoff re-established his power at the present site of
+Sitka, calling the new place Archangel Michael,--Archangel Gabriel
+having failed in his duty as a protector; and from this name it was
+called New Archangel, which changed to Sitka with the change of flags in
+1867, although American maps had dubbed it Sitka before this.
+
+Once more in Chatham Strait, with the ship's head pointed northward, we
+are on our way to the northernmost recesses of the inland passage, and
+with the greatest wonders of our wonderland ahead of us. At its northern
+end, Chatham Strait divides into two narrow waterways, Icy Strait
+leading off to the west, to the land and waters of glaciers and
+icebergs, while Lynn Canal continues broad Chatham to the north. Lynn
+Canal is a double-headed inlet, the western arm at its head being called
+the Chilkat Inlet, and the eastern arm the Chilkoot Inlet, after two
+tribes of T'linkit Indians living on these respective channels. It is a
+beautiful sheet of water, more Alpine in character than any yet entered.
+Glaciers of blue and emerald ice can be seen almost everywhere, peeping
+from underneath the snow-capped mountains and ranges that closely
+enclose this well-protected canal, and render it picturesque in the
+extreme. Here is the Eagle Glacier on the right, and dozens that have
+never been named, and a most massive one (Davison's) on our left, just
+as we enter Chilkat Inlet. At the head of Chilkat Inlet is Pyramid
+Harbor, so named after an island of pyramidal profile in its waters. It
+marks the highest point you will probably reach in the inland passage,
+unless Chilkoot Inlet is entered, which is occasionally done.
+
+[Illustration: CHILKAT BLANKET.]
+
+We are now in the land of the Chilkats, one of the most aggressive and
+arrogant, yet withal industrious and wealthy, Indian tribes of the
+T'linkits. It should be remembered that all the Alaskan Indians of the
+inland passage (except the Hy-dahs of Dixon Entrance) are bound together
+by a common language, called the T'linkit; but having so little else in
+sympathy that the sub-tribes often war against each other, these
+sub-tribes having separate chiefs, medicine men and countries, in fact,
+and being known by different names. We have already spoken of the
+Stickeens, Kootznahoos, Sitkas, etc.; and by these names they are known
+among the whites of this portion of the Territory, the title T'linkit
+being seldom heard. At the salmon cannery, on the west shore, a small
+but recently built village of Chilkats is clustered; but, to see them in
+"all their glory," the Chilkat river should be ascended to their
+principal village of Klukwan.
+
+Of this country,--the Chilkat and Chilkoot,--Mrs. Eugene S. Willard, the
+wife of the missionary presiding at Haines Mission, in Chilkoot Inlet,
+and who has resided here a number of years, writes in the _Century
+Magazine_, of October, 1885:
+
+"From Portage Bay (of Chilkoot Inlet) west to the Chilkat river and
+southward to the point, lies the largest tract of arable land, so far as
+my knowledge goes, in Southeastern Alaska, while the climate does not
+differ greatly from that of Pennsylvania * * * Here summer reaches
+perfection, never sultry, rarely chilling. * * * In May the world and
+the sun wake up together. In his new zeal, we find old Sol up before us
+at 2:15 A. M., and he urges us on until 9:45 at night. Even then the
+light is only turned down; for the darkest hour is like early summer
+twilight, not too dark for reading.
+
+"From our front door to the pebbly beach below, the wild sweet pea runs
+rampant; while under and in and through it spring the luxuriant phlox,
+Indian rice, the white-blossomed 'yun-ate,' and wild roses which make
+redolent every breath from the bay. Passing out the back door, a few
+steps lead us into the dense pine woods, whose solitudes are peopled
+with great bears, and owls, and--T'linkit ghosts! while eagles and
+ravens soar without number. On one tree alone we counted thirty bald
+eagles. These trees are heavily draped with moss, hanging in rich
+festoons from every limb; and into the rich carpeting underneath, one's
+foot may sink for inches. Here the ferns reach mammoth size, though many
+of fairy daintiness are found among the moss; and the devil's walking
+stick stands in royal beauty at every turn, with its broad, graceful
+leaves, and waxen, red berries.
+
+"Out again into the sunshine, and we discover meadows of grass and
+clover, through which run bright little streams, grown over with
+willows, just as at home. And here and there are clumps of trees, so
+like the peach and apple, that a lump comes into your throat. But you
+lift your eyes, and there beyond is the broad shining of the river, and
+above it the ever-present, dream-dispelling peaks of snow, with their
+blue ice sliding down and down. * *
+
+"The Chilkat people long ago gained for themselves the reputation of
+being the most fierce and warlike tribe in the Archipelago. Certain it
+is, that, between themselves and southern Hy-dah, there is not another
+which can compare with them in strength, either as to numbers,
+intelligence, physical perfection, or wealth. * * * The children always
+belong to their mother, and are of her to-tem. This to-temic relation
+is considered closer than that of blood. If the father's and mother's
+tribes be at war, the children must take the maternal side, even if
+against their father. * * * In very rare cases a woman has two husbands;
+oftener we find a man with two wives, even three; but more frequently
+met than either is the consecutive wife.
+
+"The Chilkats are comparatively an industrious people. On the mainland
+we have none of the deer which so densely populate the islands, owing,
+it is said, to the presence of bears and wolves; but we have the white
+mountain goat, which, while it is lamb, is delicious meat. From its
+black horns the finest carved spoons are made, and its pelt, when washed
+and combed, forms a necessary part of the Indian's bedding and household
+furniture. The combings are made by the women into rolls similar to
+those made by machinery at home. Then, with a great basket of these
+white rolls on one side, and a basket on the other to receive the yarn,
+a woman sits on the floor, and, on her bared knee, with her palm, rolls
+it into cord. This they dye in most brilliant colors made of roots,
+grasses and moss, and of different kinds of bark.
+
+[Illustration: T'LINKET WAR CANOE.]
+
+"It is of this yarn that the famous Chilkat dancing-blanket is made.
+This is done by the women with great nicety and care. The warp, all
+white, is hung from a handsomely carved upright frame. Into it the
+bright colors are wrought by means of ivory shuttles. The work is
+protected during the tedious course of its manufacture by a covering
+resembling oiled silk, made from the dressed intestines of the bear.
+Bright striped stockings of this yarn are also knitted on little needles
+whittled from wood."
+
+An illustration of a dancing-blanket is given on page 81. These are made
+by several of the T'linkit tribes; but the Chilkats so predominate in
+the manufacture, both in numbers and excellence, that you seldom hear
+them mentioned in Alaska, except as Chilkat blankets. Nearly all of the
+T'linkit tribes, as the tourist will have seen by this time, spend most
+of their out-of-door time in the water, in their canoes; and this
+constant semi-aquatic life has told on their physical development to the
+extent of giving them very dwarfed and illy developed lower limbs,
+although the trunk and arms are well developed. When walking, they seem
+to shamble along more like an aquatic fowl on land than a human being.
+The Chilkats are noticeable exceptions. Although their country is much
+more mountainous in appearance than others lower down, yet here are some
+of the most accessible of the few mountain passes by which the interior,
+a rich fur-bearing district, can be gained. The Chilkats have yearly
+taken trading goods from the white men, lashed them into packs of about
+a hundred pounds, and carried them on their backs through these
+glacier-clad passes, and traded them for furs, bringing them out in the
+same way. They monopolized the trade by the simple process of
+prohibiting the interior Indians from coming to the sea-coast to trade.
+The Chilkats therefore are probably the richest tribe of Indians in the
+Northwest, the chief having two houses full of blankets, their standard
+of value, at the village of Kluk-wan.
+
+To those who find their greatest pleasure in a rough, out-of-door life,
+let them leave the steamer at this point, hire three or four Indians to
+carry their company effects on their backs, and make an Alpine journey
+to the head of the Yukon river, where lakes aggregating 150 miles in
+length can be passed over in a canoe. The route leads up the Dayay
+river, over the Perrier Pass in the Kotusk Mountains. The trip could be
+made between visiting steamers, and I will guarantee the persons will
+come back with more muscle than they took in.
+
+Bidding good-bye to the picturesque country of the Chilkats, the
+steamer's head is turned south again; and, when just about ready to
+leave Lynn Canal, we entered an intricate series of channels bearing
+eastward, and which bring us to the great mining town of Juneau, where
+many Alaskan hopes are centred. This is what a correspondent of the
+Chicago _Times_, under date of February 23, 1885, says of this Alaskan
+town and its curious history:
+
+"The centre from which radiates whatever of excitement and interest
+there is in Alaskan mines is Douglas Island. The history of the
+discovery of ore near this island, which eventually led to the location
+of the present much-talked-of property, is similar to that attending the
+finding of most of the large mines in the West. It seems that some
+half-dozen years ago two needy and seedy prospectors named Juneau and
+Harris arrived at an Indian village that still remains visible on the
+shore across the bay from Douglas Island, in search of ore. They
+prospected the country as thoroughly as they could, with but little
+success, and were about to return home when an Indian said that he knew
+where gold existed, and that he would reveal the place for a certain sum
+of money. Hardly believing, but yet curious, Harris and Juneau accepted
+the offer, and, with their guide, set out on a pilgrimage into the
+interior to a spot now known as 'The Basin.' After a long tramp through
+the forests, and up a deep valley, the Indian showed them a place where
+there were nuggets of free gold and dirt, which, when panned, yielded a
+handsome return. Claims were immediately staked out, and the adventurers
+began their work in earnest. Later, the fact of the discovery became
+known, and other miners entered the valley, and the region gained no
+little celebrity, and became the scene of much animation. Four years the
+work progressed, and a town, which to-day is of respectable size and
+great expectations, was founded, and christened Juneau.
+
+"The Douglas Island mine is located within fifty yards of the waters of
+Juneau Bay, and was discovered by a man named Treadwell, who sold his
+claim a year or two ago to a San Francisco company. The new owners set
+up a fine stamp-mill to begin with, and made thorough tests of the ore.
+It is a 120-stamp mill, the largest in the world, and the company has
+refused, it is said, $16,000,000 for the mine."
+
+[Illustration: T'LINKET CARVED SPOONS.
+
+(Made from the Horns of Mountain Goats.)]
+
+Since the above was written, and as late as last August, reports from
+there gave the astonishing showing of enough ore in sight to keep the
+120-stamp mill "running for a lifetime." The uninitiated in mining
+mills, ledges and lodes, may grasp the value of the mine by saying its
+output for a twenty-days run of the stamp-mill was $100,000 in gold, or
+at the rate of $1,800,000 per year; which, estimating its value on an
+income of five per cent. annually, would make the mine worth
+$36,000,000, or just five times the amount we paid for the whole
+Territory. There is no doubt whatever in the minds of many experts, that
+there are a number of such places as the Treadwell mine yet to be found,
+the great difficulty of prospecting in the dense, deep mass of fallen
+timber covered with wet moss and thick underbrush on the steepest
+mountain sides, coupled with the little probability of the Treadwell
+being an isolated case in such a uniformly Alpine country, amply
+justifying them in coming to such conclusions. A visit to the mines is
+one the tourists can readily make. At Juneau we find the Takoo band of
+T'linkits in a village near by, where nearly all that has been said
+regarding Alaskan Indians may be here repeated. The very curious spoons
+they carve from the horns of the mountain goat, which are figured on
+page 85, and beautifully woven mats, and the baskets shown on page 68,
+may be purchased; and, in leaving a few pieces of silver among them for
+their own handiwork, little as it is that we have thus done for them, it
+is far more than the extremists of either side in the Indian question
+have done, those who would exterminate, or those who would
+sentimentalize in print over their wrongs.
+
+Bidding the mining metropolis of Alaska farewell, our bowsprit is once
+more pointed for the Pacific Sea; but, before we reach it, or get quite
+to it, we turn northward and enter Glacier Bay, its name signifying its
+main attractions. Glaciers, which are great rivers or sheets of ice made
+from compacted snows, are functions as much of altitude as of high
+latitude; and both unite here, with an air charged with moisture from
+the warm Pacific waters, to make the grand glaciers which are to be seen
+in this bay. In the immediate vicinity are the Mount St. Elias Alps, a
+snowy range which culminates in the well-known peak from which it
+derives its name; and, radiating from their flanks, come down these
+rivers of ice, reaching the sea-level in the greatest perfection in
+Glacier Bay, the largest one of the grand group being the Muir Glacier,
+after Professor John Muir, the scientist, of California, who is said to
+be the first to discover it. I will give the language of the man who
+claims to be the second to arrive upon the scene, and who gives his
+account in the St. Louis _Globe-Democrat_, writing from Glacier Bay,
+July 14, 1883:
+
+"When Dick Willoughby told of the great glacier, thirty miles up the
+bay, the thud of whose falling ice could be heard and felt at his house,
+the captain of the 'Idaho' said he would go there, and took this Dick
+Willoughby along to find the place and prove the tale. Away we went
+coursing up Glacier Bay, a fleet of 112 little icebergs gayly sailing
+out to meet us as we left our anchorage the next morning. Entering into
+these unknown and unsurveyed waters, the lead was cast through miles of
+bottomless channels; and, when the pilot neared a green and mountainous
+little island, he made me an unconditional present of the domain, and
+duly entered its bearings on the ship's log. For a summer resort my
+island possesses unusual advantages, and I hereby invite all suffering
+and perspiring St. Louis to come to that emerald spot in latitude 58
+degrees 29 minutes north, and longitude 135 degrees 52 minutes west from
+Greenwich, and enjoy the July temperature of 42 degrees, the whale
+fishing, the duck hunting, and a sight of the grandest glacier in the
+world.
+
+"But one white man had ever visited the glacier before us, and he was
+the irrepressible geologist and scientist, John Muir, who started out in
+an Indian canoe, with a few blankets and some hard-tack, and spent days
+scrambling over the icy wastes. Feeling our way along carefully, we cast
+anchor beside a grounded iceberg, and the photographers were rowed off
+to a small island to take the view of the ship in the midst of that
+arctic scenery. Mount Crillon showed his hoary head to us in glimpses
+between the clouds; and then, rounding Willoughby Island, which the
+owner declares is solid marble of a quality to rival that of Pentelicus
+and Carrara, we saw the full front of the great Muir Glacier, where it
+dips down and breaks into the sea. At the first breathless glance at
+that glorious ice-world, all fancies and dreams were surpassed: the
+marvelous beauty of those shining, silvery pinnacles and spires, the
+deep blue buttresses, the arches and aisles of that fretted front,
+struck one with awe. In all Switzerland there is nothing comparable to
+these Alaskan glaciers, where the frozen wastes rise straight from the
+sea, and a steamer can go up within an eighth of a mile, and cruise
+beside them. Add to the picture of high mountains and snowy glaciers a
+sapphire bay scattered over with glittering little icebergs, and nature
+can supply nothing more to stir one's soul, to rouse the fancy and
+imagination, and enchant the senses. The vastness of this Muir Glacier
+is enough alone to overpower one with a sense of the might and strength
+of these forces of nature. Dry figures can give one little idea of the
+great, desolate stretches of gray ice and snow that slope out of sight
+behind the jutting mountains, and the tumbled and broken front forced
+down to and into the sea. Although not half of the glacier has been
+explored, it is said to extend back 40 miles.
+
+"What we could know accurately was, that the front of the glacier was
+two miles across, and that the ice-wall rose 500 and 1,000 feet from the
+water. The lead cast at the point nearest to the icy front gave eighty
+fathoms, or 240 feet, of water; and, in the midst of those deep
+soundings, icebergs filled with boulders lay grounded with forty feet of
+their summits visible above water. At very low tide, there is a
+continual crash of falling ice; and, for the half-day we spent beside
+this glacier, there was a roar as of artillery every few minutes, when
+tons of ice would go thundering down into the water. After the prosaic
+matter of lunch had been settled, and we had watched the
+practical-minded steward order his men down on the iceberg to cut off a
+week's supply with their axes, we embarked in the life-boats, and landed
+in a ravine beside the glacier. * * * We wandered at will over the
+seamed and ragged surface, the ice cracked under our feet with a
+pleasant midwinter sound, and the wind blew keenly from over those
+hundreds of miles of glacier fields; but there were the gurgle and
+hollow roar of the water heard in every deep crevasse, and trickling
+streams spread a silver network in the sunshine. Reluctantly we obeyed
+the steamer's whistle, and started back to the boats.
+
+"A magnificent sunset flooded the sky that night, and filled every icy
+ravine with rose and orange lights. At the last view of the glacier, as
+we steamed away from it, the whole brow was glorified and transfigured
+with the fires of sunset; the blue and silvery pinnacles, the white and
+shining front floating dreamlike on a roseate and amber sea, and the
+range and circle of dull violet mountains lighting their glowing summits
+into a sky flecked with crimson and gold."
+
+Since the above was written, in July, 1883, Glacier Bay has been one of
+the constant visiting points of the excursion steamer, and the
+experience of two or three years has shown the company how to exhibit
+this great panorama of nature to its patrons to the best advantage, and
+one will now be astonished at the ease with which the whole field may
+be surveyed in this the most wonderful bay on a line of steamboat
+travel.
+
+Our same correspondent speaks of an unknown passage down which they
+traveled in a way that will delight the heart of a Nimrod; but he should
+have added that almost half the inland passage is of that character so
+far as the general world is wiser concerning it, and half of this,
+again, may be wholly unknown, offering one of the finest fields for
+short explorations without any of the dangers and difficulties which so
+often beset greater undertakings, and rob them of all pleasure while
+they are being prosecuted, and only compensating the explorer in the
+results attained. Here is what he has to say:
+
+"For the twenty miles that we had come down the beautiful inlet, the
+coast survey charts showed an unbroken stretch of dry land. To the
+sportsman that unknown inlet is the dreamed-of paradise. When we went
+out in the small boats, salmon and flounders could be seen darting in
+schools through the water; and, as we approached the mouth of a creek,
+the freshening current was alive with the fish. The stewards who went to
+the shore with the tank-boats for fresh water, startled seven deer as
+they pushed their way to the foot of a cascade, and the young men caught
+thirteen great salmon with their own inexperienced spearing. The captain
+of the ship took his rifle, and was rowed away to shallow waters, where
+he shot a salmon, waded in, and threw it ashore. While wandering along
+after some huge bear tracks, he saw an eagle at work on his salmon, and
+another fine shot laid the bird of freedom low. When the captain
+returned to the ship he threw the eagle and salmon on deck, and, at the
+size of the former, every one marveled. The outspread wings measured the
+traditional six feet from tip to tip, and the beak, the claws, and the
+huge, stiff feathers were rapidly seized upon as trophies and souvenirs
+of the day. A broad double rainbow arched over us as we left the lovely
+niche between the mountains, and then we swept back to Icy Straits, and
+started out to the open ocean."
+
+But we will not confine ourselves to the description of one person in
+considering this the most fascinating and curious scene presented to the
+Alaskan tourists. Grand, even to the extent of being almost appalling,
+as are the Alaskan fjords, they are but the Yosemite or Colorado Parks,
+with navigable valleys, as they would appear greatly enlarged; much as
+we are awestruck at the feet of Mount St. Elias, it is but Tacoma or
+Shasta in grander proportions, and so on through the list of scenes we
+view: but in the glaciers we have no counterpart that can be viewed from
+a steamer's deck, unless the polar zones themselves be invaded; and
+here, in fact, we view the grandest sight to be seen in that dreary
+zone, without any of its many dangers. Says Professor Denman, of San
+Francisco, who has devoted much of his attention to glaciers, and
+especially these of Alaska, compared with which he pronounces those to
+be seen in Switzerland and other parts of Europe to be "babies:"
+
+"Muir Glacier is a spectacle whose grandeur can not be described,--a
+vast frozen river of ice, ever slowly moving to the sea, and piling the
+enormous masses higher between the mountain banks, until their summit
+towers hundreds of feet in the air. Where the point of the glacier
+pushes out into and overhangs the water, vast fragments breaking apart
+every few moments of their own weight, and falling with a thundering
+crash into the sea, to float away as enormous icebergs, it affords a
+spectacle which can only be understood and appreciated by one who
+beholds it with his own eyes. From the summit of Muir Glacier no less
+than twenty-nine others are to be seen in various directions, all
+grinding and crowding their huge masses toward the sea, a sight which
+must certainly be one which few other scenes can equal."
+
+[Illustration: SCENES AMONG THE ALASKAN GLACIERS. (From Photographs.)
+
+No. 1 (Top). A Near View of the Terminal Front of the Muir Glacier. No.
+2. Looking Seaward from the Surface of the Glacier. No 3. The Excursion
+Steamer at the Front of the Glacier. No. 4 (Bottom). On the Great Frozen
+Sea; a Near View of the Surface of the Glacier.]
+
+Says a writer, Mr. Edward Roberts, in the _Overland Monthly_: "I do not
+know how wide, nor how long, nor how deep Glacier Bay is. One does not
+think of figures and facts when sailing over its waters and enjoying the
+novel features. Flood Switzerland, and sail up some of its cañons toward
+Mont Blanc, and you will have there another Glacier Bay. But until the
+sea-waves wash the feet of that Swiss peak, and until one can sail past
+the glaciers of that country, there will never be found a companion bay
+to this of Alaska. Norway, with all its ruggedness, has nothing to equal
+it; and there is not a mountain in all the ranges of the Rockies which
+has the majestic gracefulness of Fairweather Peak, which looks down upon
+the bay.
+
+"Imagine the view we had as we turned out of Lynn Canal and moved into
+the ice-strewn waters of the strange place. Above hung the sun, warm and
+clear, and lighting up the wide waste of waters till they glistened like
+flashing brilliants. Away to the left and right ran sombre forests, and
+long stretches of yellow-colored stone, and rocky cliffs that now ran
+out into the bay, and, again, rose high and straight from out it. No
+villages were in sight; no canoes dotted the waters; but all was
+desolate, neglected, still; and cakes of ice, white in the distance and
+highly colored nearer to, floated about our ship. And there, in the
+northwest, rising so high above the intervening hills that all its
+pinnacles, all its gorges, and its deep ravines of moving ice were
+visible, was Fairweather, loftiest, whitest, most delicately moulded
+peak of all the snowy crests in this north land. From a central spur,
+topping all its fellows, lesser heights helped form a range which
+stretched for miles across the country, and on whose massive shoulders
+lay a mantle of such pure whiteness that the sky above was bluer still
+by contrast, and the forests grew doubly dark and drear. All through the
+afternoon we sailed toward the glorious beacon, while the air grew
+colder every hour, and the ice cakes, hundreds of tons in weight, grew
+more numerous as the daylight began to wane. The glaciers of Glacier Bay
+are the largest in Alaska. Formed among the highest crags of the
+Fairweather range, they gradually deepen and widen as they near the sea,
+and end, at last, in massive cliffs of solid ice, often measuring three
+hundred feet high, and having a width of several miles. The surface of
+the glaciers is rough and billowy, resembling the waves of a troubled
+sea frozen into solid blocks of ice at the moment of their wildest
+gambols. Constantly pressed forward by the heavy blocks that gradually
+slide down the mountain ravines, the great frozen river keeps pressing
+seaward, until the action of the waves crumbles away gigantic cakes,
+that fall into the waters with a noise like the booming of cannon, and
+with a force that sends columns of water high into the air. The scene
+was one of arctic splendor,--white, ghostly and cheerless; while the
+light was that so often described by visitors to the polar
+sea,--uncertain, bluish, and strongly resembling a November twilight in
+New England, when the sky is overcast, the trees are bare, and the
+clouds are full of snow. Gaining at last a point barely three hundred
+yards from the glacier, the ship was stopped short. Before us rose the
+towers and solid walls, forming an embankment higher than our mast-head,
+and towering upward in dense masses against the leaden sky. Taken to
+Switzerland, the glacier of Alaska would cover that country three times
+over; for the frozen rivers of our largest purchase are not only fifty
+miles in length and three in width, but often twice that distance long
+and ten times that distance wide."
+
+Lieutenant Wood, whom we have quoted before, in speaking of the T'linkit
+Indians in the ice, says: "I noticed that, when journeying through the
+floating ice in good weather, our Indians would carefully avoid striking
+pieces of ice, lest they should offend the Ice Spirit. But, when the Ice
+Spirit beset us with peril, they did not hesitate to retaliate by
+banging his subjects. After picking our way through the ice for three
+days, we came upon a small, temporary camp of Hoonahs, who were seal
+hunting. We found little camps of a family or two scattered along both
+shores. One of the largest glaciers from Fairweather comes into the bay,
+and thus keeps its waters filled with the largest icebergs, even in the
+summer season, for which reason the bay is a favorite place for seal
+hunting. The seal is the native's meat, drink (the oil is like melted
+butter) and clothing. I went seal hunting to learn the art, which
+requires care and patience. The hunter, whether on an ice floe or in a
+canoe, never moves when the seal is aroused. When the animal is asleep,
+or has dived, the hunter darts forward. The spear has a barbed,
+detachable head, fastened to the shaft by a plaited line made from
+sinew. The line has attached to it a marking buoy, which is merely an
+inflated seal's bladder. The young seals are the victims of the T'linkit
+boys, who kill them with bow and arrow. These seal hunters used a little
+moss and seal oil and some driftwood for fuel. * * * After about forty
+miles' travel, we came to a small village of Asónques. They received us
+with great hospitality, and, as our canoe had been too small to carry
+any shelter, the head man gave me a bed in his own cabin. He had a great
+many wives, who busied themselves making me comfortable. The buckskin
+re-enforcement of my riding trousers excited childish wonder. I drew
+pictures of horses and men separate, and then of men mounted on horses.
+Their astonishment over the wonderful animal was greater than their
+delight at comprehending the utility of the trousers. The Alaskan women
+are childish and pleasant, yet quick-witted, and capable of heartless
+vindictiveness. Their authority in all matters is unquestioned. No
+bargain is made, no expedition set on foot, without first consulting
+the women. Their veto is never disregarded. I bought a silver-fox skin
+from Tsatate; but his wife made him return the articles of trade and
+recover the skin. In the same way I was perpetually being annoyed by
+having to undo bargains because his wife said '_clekh_;' that is, 'no.'
+I hired a fellow to take me about thirty miles in his canoe, when my own
+crew was tired. He agreed. I paid him the tobacco, and we were about to
+start, when his wife came to the beach and stopped him. He quietly
+unloaded the canoe and handed me back the tobacco. The whole people are
+curious in the matter of trade. I was never sure that I had done with a
+bargain; for they claimed and exercised the right to undo a contract at
+any time, provided they could return the consideration received. This is
+their code among themselves. For example: I met, at the mouth of the
+Chilkat, a native trader who had been to Fort Simpson, about six hundred
+miles away, and, failing to get as much as he gave in the interior of
+Alaska for the skins, was now returning to the interior to find the
+first vender, and revoke the whole transaction.
+
+"From the Asónque village I went, with a party of mountain goat hunters,
+up into the Mount St. Elias Alps back of Mount Fairweather,--that is, to
+the northeast of that mountain. For this trip our party made elaborate
+preparations. We donned belted shirts made of squirrel skins, fur
+head-dresses (generally conical), sealskin bootees, fitting very
+closely, and laced half way to the knee. We carried spears for
+alpenstocks, bows and arrows, raw-hide ropes, and one or two old Hudson
+Bay rifles. Ptarmigan were seen on the lower levels where the ground was
+bare. The goats kept well up toward the summit, amid the snow fields,
+and fed on the grass which sprouted along the edges of melting drifts.
+The animal is like a large, white goat, with long, coarse hair and a
+heavy coat of silky underfleece. We found a bear that, so far as I know,
+is peculiar to this country. It is of a beautiful bluish under-color,
+with the tips of the long hairs silvery white. The traders call it 'St.
+Elias silver bear.' The skins are not uncommon." This little mountain
+trip of Lieutenant Wood's is especially spread before the attention of
+those who find in this form of exercise their best recreation from their
+regular duties.
+
+But, however much the tourists may want to dwell amidst the curious and
+marvelous scenes of Glacier Bay (and so great has been this demand that
+it is contemplated building a summer resort near by, that passengers may
+remain over one steamer), yet a time must come when we will have to bid
+good-bye to this polar part of our wonderland, and pass on to the next
+grand panorama in view. Southeastward out of Glacier Bay into Icy
+Straits, and we turn southwestward into Cross Sound, headed for the
+Pacific Ocean, and for the first time enter its limitless waters. Cross
+Sound was named by Vancouver, in 1778, in honor of the day on which it
+was discovered, and is about fifty-five miles long. It corresponds on
+the north to the Strait of Juan de Fuca on the south, these two
+waterways being the limiting channels north and south of the inland
+passage as it connects with the Pacific Ocean. As the Puget Sound
+projects much farther to the south from Fuca Strait into the mainland,
+hemmed in by snowy peaks, so Lynn Canal, "the Puget Sound of the North,"
+continues the Sound of the Holy Cross far to the northward, embayed by
+glaciers, icebergs, and fields of snow.
+
+Recently, a trip out of Cross Sound, and northwestward about two hundred
+miles along the Pacific coast, has been occasionally added to the scenes
+of the inland passage, the new views presented being the Mount St. Elias
+Alps, directly facing the Pacific, for the distance noted, and
+containing within those limits the greatest number of high and imposing
+peaks to be found in any range in the world. The inland passage (by the
+use of Peril Straits to Sitka) became so perfect a river-like journey,
+absolutely free from sea-sickness, that no one felt like breaking this
+delightful trip by a sea journey, in any of its parts, however tempting
+the display might be. A trip or two, however, soon convinced the company
+that the mildness of the sea during the excursion season would warrant
+them in taking it as a part of the journey; and since, as I have said,
+it is taken occasionally, I think a short description of it would be
+appropriate here. Should the hotel in Glacier Bay, or near vicinity, be
+completed soon, it would be a good stopping-point for those who are sure
+to feel sea-sick with the least motion of the waves; while, to all
+others, the chances for good weather on the Fairweather Grounds, as they
+are not inappropriately termed, are very good, and, conjoined with the
+grand mountain scenery, should not be missed. Rounding Cape Spencer
+(_Punta de Villaluenga_ of old Spanish charts), the northern point of
+the Pacific entrance to Cross Sound, the journey out to sea is
+commenced; a view about ten to fifteen miles off shore being the best,
+or on what is known to the fishermen who here used to pursue the right
+whale, "the Fairweather Grounds," being so named, it is said, from
+Fairweather peak being in sight of most of it; and this, again, was
+named by the indomitable Cook, in 1778, as a monument to the fair
+weather he had cruising in sight of the grand old chain, a name which
+most tourists may congratulate themselves is well bestowed.
+
+Almost as soon as Cape Spencer is doubled, the southern spurs of the
+Mount St. Elias Alps burst into view, Crillon and Fairweather being
+prominent, and the latter easily recognized from our acquaintance with
+it from the waters of Glacier Bay. A trip of an hour or two takes us
+along a comparatively uninteresting coast, as viewed from "square off
+our starboard beam;" but all this time the mind is fixed by the grand
+Alpine views we have ahead of us that are slowly developing in plainer
+outline here and there as we speed toward them. Soon we are abreast of
+Icy Point: while, just beyond it, comes down a glacier to the ocean that
+gives about three miles of solid sea-wall of ice, while its source is
+lost in the heights covering the bases of the snowy peaks just behind.
+The high peak to the right, as we steam by the glacier front, is Mount
+La Perouse, named for one of the most daring of France's long list of
+explorers, and who lost his life in the interest of geographical
+science. His eyes rested on this range of Alpine peaks in 1786, just a
+century ago. Its highest point reaches well above 10,000 feet, and its
+sides are furrowed with glaciers, one of which is the ice-wall before
+our eyes, and which is generally known as the La Perouse Glacier. The
+highest peak of all, and on the left of this noble range, is Mount
+Crillon, named by La Perouse, in 1786, after the French Minister of the
+Marine; while between Crillon and La Perouse is Mount D'Agelet, the
+astronomer of that celebrated expedition. Crillon cleaves the air for
+16,000 feet above the sea on which we rest, and can be seen for over a
+hundred miles to sea. It, too, is surrounded with glaciers, in all
+directions from its crown. Crillon and La Perouse are about seven miles
+apart, nearly north and south of each other. About fifteen miles
+northwest from Crillon is Lituya Peak, 10,000 feet high; and the little
+bay opening that we pass, between the two, is the entrance to Lituya
+Bay, a sheet of water which La Perouse has pronounced as one of the most
+extraordinary in the world for grand scenery, with its glaciers and
+Alpine shores. Our steamer will not enter, however; for the passage is
+dangerous to even small boats,--one island bearing a monument to the
+officers and men of La Perouse's expedition, lost in the tidal wave
+which sweeps through the contracted passage like a breaker over a
+treacherous bar. Some ten or twelve miles northwest from Lituya Peak is
+Mount Fairweather, which bears abreast us after a little over an hour's
+run from Lituya Bay. It was named by Cook in 1778, and is generally
+considered to be a few hundred feet shorter than Mount Crillon. It is in
+every way, by its peculiar isolation from near ridges almost as high as
+itself, a much grander peak than Crillon, whose surroundings are not so
+good for a fine Alpine display. Fairweather, too, has its frozen rivers
+flowing down its sides; but none of them reach the sea, for a low,
+wooded country, some three or four miles in width, lies like a glacis at
+the seaward side of the St. Elias Alps, for a short distance along this
+part of the coast. The sombre, deep green forests add an impressive
+feature to the scene, however, lying between the dancing waves below and
+the white and blue glacier ice above. Rounding Cape Fairweather, the
+coast trends northward; and, as our bowsprit is pointed in the same
+direction, directly before us are seen immense glaciers reaching to the
+sea. From Cape Fairweather (abreast of Mount Fairweather) to Yakutat Bay
+(abreast of Mount Vancouver), no conspicuous peak rears its head above
+the grand mountain chain which for nearly a hundred miles lies between
+these two Alpine bastions; but nevertheless every hour reveals a new
+mountain of 5,000 to 8,000 feet in height, which, if placed anywhere
+else, would be held up with national or State pride as a grand
+acquisition. Here they are only dwarfed by grander peaks. The glacier
+which we are approaching from Cape Fairweather was named, by La Perouse,
+_La Grande Plateau_. It is a very low lying glacier, its grade as it
+fades away inland being very slight, more like a frozen river than the
+precipitous masses of ice which we have been used to seeing. Little is
+known of it, beyond the seaward aspect; but it is probably the largest
+glacier in Alaska, and the largest in the world, south of the polar
+regions themselves.
+
+Wherever these glaciers reach the sea, or connect with it by draining
+rivers,--and all large glaciers, at least, do this,--there is seen a
+milky sediment floating in the water, which these "mills of the gods"
+grind from the mountain flanks in their slow but rasping course down
+their sides. Wherever they find calcareous strata to abrade, the water
+is almost milklike in hue for miles around. The glacier of the Grand
+Plateau is the last one facing the Pacific itself, as we move northward;
+but, where little bays cut back through the flat lands at the foot of
+the range, they may reach the glaciers which exist everywhere on the
+mountain sides.
+
+Off the Bay of Yakutat,--a name given it by the resident T'linkit
+tribes,--we have our best view of imperial St. Elias, the crowning peak
+of this noble range, and the highest mountain in all North
+America,--nearly 20,000 feet above the sea-level, and all of this vast
+height seemingly springing from the very sea itself. No good picture has
+ever been given of it, and no words have ever fully described it. All of
+the superlatives of our language have clothed so many lesser peaks that
+they fall flat and mentally tasteless in the presence of this Alpine
+Titan, rearing his crest among the clouds as if defying description.
+This want of words has been felt by so many who have visited the grand
+scenery of Alaska, who saw that, in illustrating a fjord here or a
+glacier there, they have but duplicated the word-painting of some other
+writer describing a puny antagonist, compared with their subject, that I
+will give it in the words of one who expresses the idea more closely
+than I. It is from the pen of a correspondent in the Kansas City
+_Journal_, under date of September 14, 1885.
+
+"The difficult thing for the tourist to do in regard to Alaska is to
+describe what is seen for the general reader. Everything is on such an
+immense and massive scale that words are diminutives for expression,
+rather than--as travelers have been credited with using them--for
+exaggerated descriptions. For example, people cross the continent to
+sail for an hour or two among the Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence,
+and word-painting has been exhausted in exaltation of their beauties.
+But here is a thousand miles of islands, ranging in size from an acre to
+the proportions of a State, covered with evergreen forests of tropical
+luxuriance, yet so arctic in their character as to be new to the eye,
+and in regard to which botanical nomenclature but confuses and
+dissatisfies. And in all this vast extent of mountain scenery, with
+summits ranging from one thousand to fifteen thousand feet in height,
+there is not enough level land visible to aggregate one prairie county
+in Western Missouri or Kansas. Day after day there is a continuous and
+unbroken chain of mountain scenery. I can not better impress the
+character of the landscape, as seen from a vessel's deck, than to ask
+the reader to imagine the parks, valleys, cañons, gorges and depressions
+of the Rocky Mountains to be filled with water to the base of the snowy
+range, and then take a sail through them from Santa Fé to the northern
+line of Montana. Just about what could be seen on such an imaginary
+voyage is actually passed through in the sail now completed by our party
+of enthusiastic tourists for the past ten days. You may divide the
+scenery into parts by the days, and just as it was successively passed
+through, and any one of the subdivisions will furnish more grand
+combination of mountain and sea than can be seen anywhere on the globe.
+It is this vast profusion of scenery, this daily and hourly unrolling of
+the panorama, that overwhelms and confuses the observer. It is too great
+to be separated into details, and everything is platted on such a
+gigantic scale that all former experiences are dwarfed, and the
+imagination rejects the adjectives that have heretofore served for other
+scenes: to employ them here is only to mislead."
+
+"As one gentleman, a veteran traveler, remarked to me, as we stood
+looking north at the entrance to Glacier Bay, with the St. Elias Alps in
+full view, and Mounts Crillon and Fairweather overtopping the
+snow-covered peaks of that remarkable range:
+
+"'You can take just what we see here, and put it down on Switzerland,
+and it will hide all there is of mountain scenery in Europe.' And then
+he added: 'I have been all over the world; but you are now looking at a
+scene that has not its parallel elsewhere on the globe.'
+
+"I cite this incident, as it is more descriptive, and gives a better
+idea of contrast than anything of my own could do, giving, as it does,
+to the reader, a conception of the vastness and immensity of the
+topographical aspect of the shores of the inland seas through whose
+labyrinthine passages we have for ten days past, and for ten days more
+to come will be lost to the outside world, where nature reigns
+undisturbed and unfretted by the hand of civilization."
+
+Here, under the solemn influence of Mount St. Elias, and in the
+northernmost waters of the greatest ocean of our planet, we turn
+southward to repeat in inverse order the things we have seen; or
+perchance, as often happens, down a number of new channels, with their
+varied scenery, before home is reached again.
+
+I have given a certain order in which the few ports of Alaska are
+visited; but the reader must not for a moment think that this is always
+rigidly followed. Sometimes some of them are left for the return
+journey, and much depends on the amount of freight, and the number and
+character of passengers. In the winter the trips are made wholly with
+reference to mails, freight, and the few passengers; but in the spring,
+summer, and fall these are wholly subordinate, and the trips are
+converted into excursions in the broadest sense of the word. While
+thousands of little channels remain almost wholly unexplored, which
+probably would make the fortune of excursion companies if transported
+elsewhere, yet it is evident that the greater attractions of the great
+inland passage have been discovered, and are now shown to the tourists
+to the Wonderland of the World.
+
+                                                        FRED'K SCHWATKA.
+
+                     *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+The table below lists all corrections applied to the original text.
+
+  p 5: Glaciers of Alaska -> shift after Glacier Bay
+  p 9: rock bass, mascalonge -> maskalonge
+  p 34: Bull river -> Bull River
+  p 39: it below, or vice versâ -> versa
+  P 46: and the great light-house -> lighthouse
+  p 72: SITKA, ALASKA. -> period added
+  p 85: running for a life-time -> lifetime
+  p 87: with a pleasant mid-winter -> midwinter
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Wonderland; or Alaska and the Inside
+Passage, by Lieut. Frederick Schwatka and John Hyde
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+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of Wonderland; or Alaska and the Inland Passage, by Lieut. Frederick Schwatka.
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Wonderland; or Alaska and the Inside Passage, by 
+Lieut. Frederick Schwatka and John Hyde
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Wonderland; or Alaska and the Inside Passage
+       With a Description of the Country Traversed by the Northern
+              Pacific Railroad
+
+Author: Lieut. Frederick Schwatka
+        John Hyde
+
+Release Date: June 16, 2011 [EBook #36435]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WONDERLAND; OR ALASKA AND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Jens Nordmann, Greg Bergquist and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="note">
+<p class="center"><b>Transcriber's Note</b></p>
+<p style="text-indent: 0em;">The original spelling and minor inconsistencies
+in the spelling and formatting have been maintained. Obvious misprints have been corrected
+and <ins title="like this">marked-up</ins>. The original text will be
+displayed as a mouse-over pop-up.</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/img_frontpageh.jpg">
+     <img src="images/img_frontpage.jpg" width="300" height="174"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+   </a>
+   <a id="Frontispiece"></a>
+<p class="caption">COLUMBIA RIVER, LOOKING EASTWARD FROM ROCK BLUFF.</p>
+</div>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h1>Wonderland;</h1>
+
+<p class="title"><span style="font-size: 1em;">OR</span></p>
+
+<p class="title"><span style="font-size: 2em;"><span class="smcap">Alaska and the Inland Passage</span></span></p>
+
+<p class="title"><span style="font-size: 1em;">BY</span></p>
+
+<p class="title"><span style="font-size: 2em;">LIEUT. FREDERICK SCHWATKA.</span></p>
+
+<p class="title"><span style="font-size: 1em;">WITH</span></p>
+
+<p class="title"><span style="font-size: 2em;"><span class="smcap">A Description of the Country Traversed by the Northern Pacific Railroad.</span></span></p>
+
+<p class="title"><span style="font-size: 1em;">BY</span></p>
+
+<p class="title"><span style="font-size: 2em;">JOHN HYDE,</span></p>
+
+<p class="title"><span style="font-size: 1em;">Author of &ldquo;The Wonderland Route to the Pacific Coast,&rdquo; &ldquo;Alice's Adventures in the
+New Wonderland,&rdquo; etc., etc.</span></p>
+
+<p class="title"><span style="font-size: 1em;">Copyrighted, 1886, by CHAS. S. FEE, General Passenger Agent Northern Pacific Railroad, St. Paul.</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 314px;">
+     <img src="images/img_002.jpg" width="314" height="227"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+<p class="caption">PRINTERS AND ENGRAVERS, CHICAGO</p>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 640px;">
+     <img src="images/img_003a_h.jpg" width="640" height="213"
+        alt="Headpiece"
+        title="Headpiece" />
+</div>
+
+<h2>INTRODUCTORY.</h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 168px;">
+<img src="images/img_003b.jpg" width="168" height="160" alt="M" title="M" />
+</div><p class="dropcap">ulti discurrent, et augebitur <i>stultitia</i>.&rdquo; Thus did one of the
+profoundest of modern thinkers parody the prediction of the Hebrew
+prophet who foretold the time when, with increased facilities for travel and
+intercommunication, there should come a great enlargement of the bounds
+of knowledge, and a corresponding amelioration of the condition of
+humanity.</p>
+
+<p>It would, however, be strange indeed, if the complex process of social
+evolution, even in its present stage, were not marked by some of the
+indications of a retrograde movement. The age in which we live has
+undoubtedly its peculiar follies and foibles, which are but thrown into
+relief by the qualities that more generally distinguish it.</p>
+
+<p>But many are running to and fro, and knowledge is being increased.
+Nature is revealing herself to the traveler in new forms and aspects,
+and disclosing to his wondering gaze mysterious pages of her great book
+hitherto hidden from him.</p>
+
+<p>And while extensive tracts of country, presenting physical features to
+which the entire known world furnishes no parallel, have been brought by
+railroad enterprise within reach alike of the curious sight-seer and the
+inquiring student, a vast region, of almost unexampled wealth-producing
+capabilities, has, by the same agency, been thrown open to that
+advancing tide of civilization which is rapidly overspreading the world.</p>
+
+<p>Hence the traveler journeying to Wonderland&mdash;to that enchanted realm
+where the most extravagant creations of the fancy appear trivial and
+commonplace beside the more extraordinary works of Nature&mdash;sees also, in
+process of solution, some of the hitherto most perplexing problems of
+economics; observes, as he can not do with like facility anywhere else
+in the world, the well-ordered plan upon which the bounty of Nature is
+distributed; and witnesses the unlocking of vast storehouses of good, to
+supply the increasing needs of the human race.</p>
+
+<p>It may be doubted whether the world affords another tour at once so
+delightful and so instructive as that which, beginning at the head of
+the Mississippi valley, and crossing the great wheat fields of Dakota
+and Eastern Washington, the stock ranges of Montana, and the gold and
+silver ribbed mountains of Montana and Idaho, embraces also the wonders
+of the Yellowstone National Park, and the incomparable scenery of the
+Columbia river, to crown all with the stupendous sights of that Great
+Land whose unique natural features have earned for it the well-deserved
+title of &ldquo;Wonderland.&rdquo; No longer one of peril and hardship, but, on the
+contrary, one of absolute luxury, this tour has, within the last two
+years, attracted thousands of pilgrims from all parts of the civilized
+world. To them, as well as to all other lovers of the sublime and
+beautiful, and to the students of the mysteries of Nature in all lands,
+who may have the good fortune to visit the far Northwest in 1886, the
+following pages are respectfully inscribed.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 640px;">
+     <img src="images/img_003c_h.jpg" width="640" height="216"
+        alt="Tailpiece"
+        title="Tailpiece" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 553px;">
+     <img src="images/img_004_h.jpg" width="553" height="480"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+</div>
+
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">Contents.</span></h2>
+
+<table width="600" cellspacing="3" summary="Table of Contents">
+  <tr>
+    <td>&nbsp;</td>
+    <td align="right"><small>PAGE</small></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">The Advantages of Travel&mdash;Introductory</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_3">3</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">The Development of the Northwest&mdash;St. Paul and Minneapolis</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_7">7, 8</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Minnesota Lakes and their Attractions for the Angler</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_8">8&ndash;10</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Brainerd, Duluth, Superior and Ashland</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_10">10</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Red River Valley</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_12">12</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">The Changes of a Half Century</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_13">13</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Great Wheat Farms of Dakota, and the Capital of the Territory</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_14">14</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">&ldquo;Bad Lands&rdquo; of the Little Missouri</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_15">15, 16</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Yellowstone River</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_16">16&ndash;19</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Yellowstone National Park</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_20">20&ndash;22</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Helena and the Romance of Mining</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_23">23&ndash;26</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Main Range of the Rocky Mountains</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_26">26, 27</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Butte City, the greatest Mining Camp in the World</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_27">27&ndash;30</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">The Flathead Country</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_30">30, 31</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Clark's Fork and Lake Pend d'Oreille</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_31">31&ndash;34</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Spokane Falls</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_35">35</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Palouse and Walla Walla Wheat Countries</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_36">36, 37</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">The Columbia River</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_37">37&ndash;40</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Portland</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_40">40, 41</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">The Willamette Valley and Southern Oregon</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_42">42, 43</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">The Lower Columbia and City of Astoria, with Fisheries</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_43">43&ndash;46</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Western Washington: its Scenery and Resources</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_46">46</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">The Sovereign Mountain: Tacoma</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_47">47</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Puget Sound</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_48">48&ndash;54</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Victoria, British Columbia</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_55">55, 56</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Discovery Passage</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_58">58</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Queen Charlotte Sound</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_60">60</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Varieties of Fish found in Inland Passage</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_62">62</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Wrangell, Alaska</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_63">63, 64</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Indian Life, Facilities for Studying</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_67">67&ndash;71</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Sitka, Alaska</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_73">73&ndash;77</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Hot Springs Bay, Alaska</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_77">77</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Climate of Sitka</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_79">79</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Land of the Chilkats</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_81">81&ndash;84</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Juneau, Alaska, and the Mines of Douglas Island</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_84">84&ndash;86</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Glacier Bay</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_86">86&ndash;92</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left"><ins title="shift after Glacier Bay">Glaciers of Alaska</ins></td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_93">93&ndash;95</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Mount St. Elias</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_95">95, 96</a></td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 640px;">
+     <img src="images/img_006a.jpg" width="640" height="159"
+        alt="Headpiece"
+        title="Headpiece" />
+</div>
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">Index to illustrations.</span></h2>
+
+<table width="600" cellspacing="3" summary="Index of Illustrations">
+  <tr>
+    <td>&nbsp;</td>
+    <td align="right"><small>PAGE</small></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Alaska's Thousand Islands, as seen from Sitka</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_78">78</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">An Alaska Indian House, with Totem Poles</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_66">66</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Chancel of the Greek Church, Sitka</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Chilkat Blanket</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_81">81</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Columbia River, looking Eastward from Rock Bluff</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Frontispiece">Frontispiece</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Detroit Lake and Hotel Minnesota, Detroit, Minn.</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_11">11</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Falls of the Gibbon River, National Park</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_29">29</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Floating Fish Wheel, Columbia River</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_42">42</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Hotel Tacoma, Tacoma, W. T.</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_47">47</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Lake Pend d'Oreille, Idaho</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, National Park</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Mount Hood, from the Head of the Dalles, Columbia River</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_38">38</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Mount Tacoma, W. T.</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Old Faithful Geyser, National Park</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_18">18</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Scenes among the Alaskan Glaciers</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_89">89</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Scenes in the Inland Passage</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_59">59</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Sitka, Alaska</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">T'linket Basket Work</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_68">68</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">T'linket Carved Spoons</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_85">85</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">T'linket War Canoe</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td align="left">Yellowstone River, National Park</td>
+    <td align="right"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 640px;">
+     <img src="images/img_006b.jpg" width="640" height="443"
+        alt="Tailpiece"
+        title="Tailpiece" />
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 640px;">
+     <img src="images/img_007a_h.jpg" width="640" height="298"
+        alt="Headpiece"
+        title="Headpiece" />
+</div>
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">From the Great Lakes to Puget Sound.</span></h2>
+
+<p style="font-size: 90%; margin-left: 40%; text-indent: -0.4em;">
+<b>&ldquo;To the doorways of the West-Wind,<br />
+To the portals of the Sunset.&rdquo;</b></p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 160px;">
+<img src="images/img_007b.jpg" width="160" height="217" alt="W" title="W" />
+</div><p class="dropcap">hile, in the old world, armies have been contending for the possession
+of narrow strips of territory, in kingdoms themselves smaller than many
+single American States, and venerable <i>savants</i> have been predicting
+the near approach of the time when the population of the world shall have
+outstripped the means of subsistence, there has arisen, between the
+headwaters of the Mississippi and the mouth of the stately Columbia, an
+imperial domain, more than three times the size of the German empire,
+and capable of sustaining upon its own soil one hundred millions of
+people. What little has been done&mdash;for it is but little,
+comparatively&mdash;toward the development of its amazing resources, has
+called into existence, on its eastern border, two great and beautiful
+cities, which have sprung up side by side on the banks of the great
+Father of Waters.</p>
+
+<p>It is there, at St. Paul and Minneapolis, that the traveler's journey to
+Wonderland may be said to begin. And what could be more fitting? for are
+they not wonders in themselves, presenting, as they do, the most
+astonishing picture of rapid expansion the world has ever seen?</p>
+
+<p>But it is not their magnitude that excites the greatest surprise. If
+there is a single newspaper reader in ignorance of the fact that the
+State census of 1885 found them with a population of 240,597? or that
+the 23,994 buildings erected within their limits since the beginning of
+1882, represent a frontage of over 100 miles and an expenditure of
+$69,895,390, or that their banking capital considerably exceeds that of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span>
+either San Francisco, New Orleans, Cincinnati or St. Louis, it is
+through no fault of the cities themselves. But the visitor may bring
+with him a just appreciation of their size and commercial importance,
+and yet have had no conception of their beauty, nor of the abounding
+evidences of public spirit and private enterprise that will confront him
+at every turn.</p>
+
+<p>The position of St. Paul, at the head of navigation, and as the focus of
+the railway activity of the Northwest, commands for it an extensive
+wholesale trade, its sales aggregating, in 1885, the large sum of
+$81,420,000. The surprise with which the visitor views the stately piles
+that are the outward and visible signs of the vast commercial and
+financial interests of the city, the creation of a few brief seasons, is
+no greater than the astonishment with which he realizes the absence of
+all appearance of immaturity. In no city in the Union are the business
+quarters more solid and substantial; in none is the domestic
+architecture more attractive. Nothing is crude, nothing tentative,
+nothing transitional.</p>
+
+<p>Clustered around the great Falls of St. Anthony, stand those colossal
+flouring mills that have been more than ever the pride and glory of
+Minneapolis, since they enabled her to pluck from Chicago's crown one of
+the brightest of its jewels. It is a startling commentary upon the much
+vaunted supremacy of the great metropolis of the West, that, while the
+wheat attracted to its market fell gradually from 34,106,109 bushels in
+1879, to 13,265,223 bushels in 1885, the amount handled by the millers
+of Minneapolis increased, within the same period, from 7,514,364 bushels
+to 32,112,840 bushels. The mills have a total flour-manufacturing
+capacity of 33,973 barrels per day, an amount equal to the necessities
+of the three most populous States of the Union, or of one-half the
+population of Great Britain.</p>
+
+<p>But to turn from the romance of figures to that of song and story.
+Should the traveler have any desire to visit the far-famed falls of
+Minnehaha, it is now he should gratify it. Situated almost midway
+between the two cities, they can be easily reached, either by train,
+carriage or river steamboat. The poetic interest with which they have
+been invested by their association with the legend of Hiawatha
+constitutes but the least of their claims upon the traveler's notice;
+and, should he turn aside to visit them, not even the sublime scenery of
+Wonderland will entirely efface the memory of their laughing waters.</p>
+
+<p>The residents of St. Paul and Minneapolis are fortunate in having,
+within easy access, two of the most beautiful of Minnesota's ten
+thousand lakes, White Bear and Minnetonka. Justly celebrated for the
+beauty of their scenery and the excellence of their hotel and other
+accommodations, they are resorted to annually by thousands of visitors
+from far and near. Minnetonka is not inappropriately called the Saratoga
+of the Northwest; but no designation, however high-sounding or
+significant, can do justice to the exquisite beauty of its scenery or
+the sumptuousness of its hotels.</p>
+
+<p>It is time, however, that we were directing our steps toward that
+scarcely less luxurious hotel which is waiting to convey us to the
+fir-clad slopes of Puget Sound! While holding in honorable remembrance<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span>
+the names of Watt and Stephenson, surely posterity ought not altogether
+to forget those of the inventors of the sleeping car and dining car; for
+the railway train of early days was hardly a greater advance upon the
+old stage-coach than is the completely equipped train of to-day over its
+predecessor of even twenty-five years ago.</p>
+
+<p>The journey from St. Paul to Puget Sound may be said to fall into eight
+geographical divisions, with well-marked natural boundaries, and
+corresponding in the main to the divisions into which the line has been
+formed for operating purposes. The first extends to the Red River of the
+North, a distance of 275 miles, lying wholly in the State of Minnesota.</p>
+
+<p>The great attractions of this State are its pine forests, covering
+nearly one-half of its entire area, and its numerous beautiful lakes. Of
+the latter, there are no fewer than 215 within twenty-five miles of St.
+Paul, and they extend right through the central part of the State, on
+both sides of the railroad, to the prairie region bordering upon the Red
+River. Many of them are of exceeding beauty, especially in the district
+known as the</p>
+
+<h3>LAKE PARK REGION,</h3>
+
+<p style="text-indent: 0;">a richly diversified section of country, presenting the most charming
+scenery.</p>
+
+<p>Among the most famous, are Lake Minnewaska, on the Little Falls and
+Dakota division of the road, fifty-nine miles from its junction with the
+main line; Clitherall and Battle Lakes, on the Fergus Falls and Black
+Hills branch; and Detroit Lake, on the direct line to the West, 230
+miles from St. Paul. All these have fine pebbly beaches, lined with
+beautiful borders of timber, and their accommodations for all classes of
+visitors&mdash;anglers, sportsmen and families&mdash;are exceptionally good.</p>
+
+<p>Like all the waters of Minnesota, they teem with fine, gamey fish of
+many varieties. The accomplished editor of the <i>American Angler</i>,
+writing in his well-known journal, after a visit to the Northwest in the
+summer of 1885, stated, that, during a life of nearly a quarter of a
+century as an angler, no experience with a rod had equaled in variety
+and weight the two days' fishing he had had on Detroit Lake. Nor was Mr.
+Harris' success exceptional. A score of one hundred pounds per day on
+two rods, is, as he goes on to state, considered quite a modest record.</p>
+
+<p>For what is locally regarded as a good catch, we must turn to that of
+the three gentlemen who, on the afternoon of June 1st, 1885, brought in,
+as the result of less than three days' work, 603 pike, 138 black bass,
+178 rock bass, 28 cat-fish and 25 pickerel; the entire catch weighing
+2,321 pounds. This &ldquo;fish story&rdquo; is well authenticated. Eastern anglers
+can have no conception how full of fine fish, of many varieties, these
+Minnesota lakes are. For black and rock bass, <ins title="mascalonge">maskalonge</ins>, pickerel,
+wall-eyed pike, and an infinite variety of smaller fish, a recent writer
+in the <i>American Angler</i> pronounces Detroit Lake the finest fishing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span>
+ground on the continent. Nor need any angler or sportsman&mdash;for prairie
+chickens, ducks and deer are abundant&mdash;expect to have to look to sport
+to make up for the deficiencies of accommodation; for the Hotel
+Minnesota is said, on the highest authority, to be a gem of a hostelry
+for anglers, every facility and convenience they could wish for being
+obtainable at moderate charges.</p>
+
+<p>The scenic attractions, also, are of a high order, the natural features
+of the surrounding country being of the most diversified character. The
+air is pure and invigorating, and hay fever and malarial diseases are
+absolutely unknown.</p>
+
+<p>Lake Park is another delightful resort in this region, having good
+fishing and boating within easy distance, and a first-class hotel
+adjoining the depot.</p>
+
+<p>Before arriving at Detroit, the traveler from St. Paul passes through
+Brainerd, the &ldquo;City of the Pines.&rdquo; The selection of this city for the
+location of the machine shops of the railroad has given a great impetus
+to its growth; nevertheless, for deer and bear hunting, it is still one
+of the best localities in the State. There is fine fishing, too, in its
+immediate vicinity, and its hotel accommodations also are very good.
+Here it is, also, that travelers from the East, coming by way of the
+Great Lakes, join the west-bound train.</p>
+
+<p>The distance to Brainerd from Duluth, the point of debarkation, at the
+west end of Lake Superior, is 114 miles.</p>
+
+<p>The traveler, who, in 1886, visits Mr. Proctor Knott's &ldquo;Zenith City of
+the Unsalted Seas,&rdquo; will find the straggling village of five years ago a
+busy city of 20,000 inhabitants, with abounding evidences of the
+commercial importance it has attained. By reason of the advantages
+afforded by the great waterway of the continent, for the direct shipment
+of wheat to the Eastern States or to Europe, Duluth has become almost as
+formidable a rival of Minneapolis as that city is of Chicago. It handled
+last year no fewer than 15,819,462 bushels of wheat, while its saw mills
+cut up 125,000,000 feet of lumber, and an extensive trade was also
+carried on in coal, salt and lime.</p>
+
+<p>A few miles distant, and connected with it by a railway whose
+construction involved the building of an exceedingly fine iron bridge,
+is the city of Superior, also with excellent terminal facilities. The
+eastern terminus of this, the Wisconsin division of the railroad, is
+Ashland, an important town and favorite summer resort on Lake Superior.
+Midway between this town and Duluth the line crosses the Brule river,
+whose excellent fishing grounds its recent opening has, for the first
+time, rendered accessible.</p>
+
+<p>The Brule river proper is a large stream, averaging 100 feet in width,
+of clear, cold water, flowing, its entire length, through one of the
+great forests of Wisconsin. With high banks, and free from low or marshy
+ground, it is an ideal trout stream. The best fishing on the river is to
+be had in a stretch of fourteen miles, extending six miles above, and
+eight miles below, the crossing of the Northern Pacific Railroad. The
+trout attain a large size, catches of three and four pound fish being an
+everyday occurrence. In the surrounding forest, game, including moose,
+deer, beaver and pheasant, is found in great abundance. Large quantities
+of venison were shipped hence by rail during the winter of 1885&ndash;86, the
+shipments from November 1st to December 15th alone exceeding 13,000
+pounds.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/img_011_h.jpg">
+     <img src="images/img_011.jpg" width="400" height="204"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+   </a>
+<p class="caption">DETROIT LAKE AND HOTEL MINNESOTA, DETROIT, MINN.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Almost equal to the exciting pleasures of the chase is that of shooting<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span>
+the Brule river rapids in a canoe. Accompanied by an experienced guide,
+the visitor performs this feat without danger; let him attempt it alone,
+and he is sure of a ducking. For the angler and sportsman, the Brule
+possesses an additional attraction in the fact, that, while most
+excellent accommodations are to be had at the railroad crossing,
+including boats, fishing tackle and guides, there is no settlement of
+any kind within a considerable distance.</p>
+
+<p>The line from Duluth to Brainerd follows, for many miles, the winding
+valley of the St. Louis river, through scenery for the most part stern
+and wild, yet not without an occasional suggestion of the gentler beauty
+of the far-off Youghiogheny. Between Fond du Lac and Thompson the river
+has a descent of 500 feet in a distance of twelve miles, tearing its way
+with terrific force through a tortuous, rock-bound channel. The best
+point for observing the fine effect of these impetuous rapids and
+cascades, known locally as the Dalles of the St. Louis, is near the
+twentieth mile post westward from Duluth.</p>
+
+<p>Pursuing its way in the direction of Brainerd, the train traverses a
+country comparatively little known. Its scanty population is engaged
+almost entirely in logging, lumber manufacturing, and hunting, the
+immense forest covering the face of the country abounding with deer,
+bear, wolves, foxes and other game.</p>
+
+<p>Emerging from the deep recesses of the forest, and passing swiftly
+through the lake region already referred to, we find ourselves in a
+level prairie country, and can dimly descry, in the far distance, the
+thin, dark line which another hour's ride will show to be the narrow
+fringe of timber that marks the course of the famous Red River of the
+North, that true Arimaspes, with whose golden sands thousands and tens
+of thousands have been made rich.</p>
+
+<p>This, then, is the renowned Red River valley, the story of whose amazing
+fertility has attracted, from older States and still older countries,
+one hundred and fifty thousand people. The greatest influx has taken
+place since 1880, the increase in population between the census of that
+year and that in the spring of 1885 being 38,719 on the Minnesota side
+of the river, and 54,918 on the Dakota side.</p>
+
+<p>Although there are vast tracts of land still uncultivated, the general
+appearance of the valley is that of a well-settled agricultural country.
+But this will occasion no surprise to those who remember that its annual
+wheat crop has now reached 25,000,000 bushels, and its crop of other
+cereals 15,000,000 bushels.</p>
+
+<p>Not a little surprise, however, is occasioned by the discovery that the
+&ldquo;valley&rdquo; of which the traveler has heard so much is not a valley at all,
+but a great plain, whose slope toward the river is so slight as to be
+wholly imperceptible.</p>
+
+<p>Where the railroad crosses the river, have sprung up the cities of
+Moorhead and Fargo, the former in Minnesota, the latter in Dakota. With
+such advantages of situation as they possess, and with the days of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span>
+booms, with all their unhealthy excitement and fictitious values, gone,
+never, it is to be hoped, to return, these cities must continue to
+increase in commercial importance, with the development of the rich
+country surrounding them.</p>
+
+<p>Fargo is, indeed, the largest city in the entire Territory of Dakota,
+and will probably retain its position as such for many years to come.</p>
+
+<p>It is needless to repeat here the oft-told story of Dakota's marvelous
+growth. Time was when it was capable of being wrought up into a mosaic
+of wondrous interest and beauty; but, with the multiplication of
+agencies for giving it publicity, its charm, for the present generation
+at least, has passed away. It will, nevertheless, afford the historian
+of the nineteenth century material for one of the most interesting and
+instructive chapters of his work.</p>
+
+<p>Writing, in 1828, his &ldquo;Principles of Population,&rdquo; the great historian of
+Europe said: &ldquo;The gradual and continuous progress of the European race
+toward the Rocky Mountains has the solemnity of a providential event: it
+is like a deluge of men rising unabatedly, and daily driven onward by
+the hand of God.&rdquo; But at that time the State of Illinois, but half way
+toward the Rocky Mountains and one-third of the way to the Pacific
+Ocean, was almost the limit of its mighty flow. Wisconsin, with no
+noteworthy settlements of its own, formed part of the Territory of
+Michigan; Iowa was an altogether vacant region, without any form of
+organized government; while other great States of to-day were still
+either mere parts of the Louisiana purchase, with as yet no separate
+identity, or were comprised within the then far-extending territory of
+the republic of Mexico.</p>
+
+<p>The traveler to the Northwest, by the Northern Pacific Railroad,
+traverses that section of the far-extending dominion of the American
+people that was the last to be overspread by that great tide of
+civilization. He sees its evidences in the happy and prosperous
+homesteads that dot the fertile plains of Dakota, and nestle under the
+sheltering bluffs of the winding valleys of Montana; he is able to bear
+witness, also, to its having penetrated the fastnesses of the Rocky
+Mountains, and converted the hillsides of Eastern Washington and the
+fair lands of Oregon into smiling wheat fields and fruitful orchards.</p>
+
+<p>But, notwithstanding the hundreds of flourishing settlements scattered
+along the great highway of travel, with here and there a goodly town or
+city, he can not but wonder at the apparent sparseness of population
+when he remembers that one and a half millions of people have their
+homes between the Great Lakes and Puget Sound.</p>
+
+<p>But let him consider the vast extent of the country; let him call to
+mind that Dakota, with her 415,664 inhabitants, has yet 230 acres of
+land to every man, woman and child within her borders, her population
+averaging less than three to the square mile; that the density of
+population in Oregon and Washington is but two and one-half and two to
+the square mile, respectively; while both Montana and Idaho have
+considerably more square miles than they have inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>The county of Cass, which stretches westward from Fargo, is one of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span>
+best settled sections of the Northwest, there being no land whatever
+subject to entry. It contains some of the largest wheat farms in the
+world, and it has produced more than one wheat crop of 5,000,000
+bushels. This county has an actual wealth of over $20,000,000, and, with
+its 120 school houses and numberless churches, it may be taken as
+admirably illustrating both the capabilities of the country and the
+character of the people who are building it up.</p>
+
+<p>At Dalrymple, eighteen miles from Fargo, and at Casselton, two miles
+farther west, are the</p>
+
+<h3>GREAT WHEAT FARMS</h3>
+
+<p style="text-indent: 0;">of Mr. Oliver Dalrymple, comprising some 50,000 acres. Continuing
+westward, we pass, in rapid succession, various flourishing settlements,
+among them being Valley City, on the Sheyenne river, the judicial seat
+of Barnes county.</p>
+
+<p>Presently the train descends into the valley of the James, or Dakota,
+river, and the prosperous city of Jamestown is reached.</p>
+
+<p>From this point a branch line extends northward, ninety miles, to
+Minnewaukan, at the west end of Devil's Lake. This remarkable body of
+salt water, with its deeply indented and richly wooded shores, where the
+briny odor of the ocean mingles with the fragrance of the prairie
+flower, is surrounded by some of the best farming lands in Dakota. Its
+attractions for the tourist, angler and sportsman have obtained wide
+recognition, fish and game being very plentiful, the climate highly
+salubrious, the scenery picturesque, and the hotel accommodations good.
+The James river is said to be the longest unnavigable river on the
+continent, if not in the world, its flow, for hundreds of miles, being
+distinguished by scarcely any perceptible increase of volume.</p>
+
+<p>Crossing a high table land, 1,850 feet above sea-level, and 950 feet
+higher than the Red river at Fargo, and known geographically as the
+Coteaux de Missouri, the train rapidly pursues its way past various
+large and well-managed farms to Bismarck, the capital of the Territory.</p>
+
+<p>This city has long commanded an important trade with various settlements
+on the Upper Missouri, the steamboats employed having transported as
+much as 45,000,000 pounds of freight within a single brief period of
+navigation. It is the shipping and distributing point of a vast area
+whose only railroad facilities are those afforded by the great
+transcontinental line that here crosses the Missouri river. With the
+various important settlements that have been established in that great
+tract of country, Bismarck has either stage or steamboat communication.
+While, however, river navigation is limited to a comparatively short
+season, the stages run regularly all the year round, having even been
+known not to miss a single trip, or to be more than a few hours late,
+during an entire winter.</p>
+
+<p>But it is not the Fargos, the Jamestowns or the Bismarcks with which the
+tourist chiefly concerns himself. They attract his attention only
+because of the evidence they afford of the development and stability of
+the country, and the enterprise of the people, and he is far more<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span>
+interested in the crossing of the Missouri river, than in either of the
+two cities that frown at each other across its turbid waters.</p>
+
+<p>The bridge, by which the railroad is carried across the great river,
+here 2,800 feet in breadth, although 3,500 miles from the Gulf of
+Mexico, is a structure of immense strength, and not more substantial
+than it is graceful. It consists of three spans, each of 400 feet, and
+two approach spans, each of 113 feet, with a long stretch of strongly
+built trestle work over the gently sloping west bank of the river.</p>
+
+<p>Here the train runs into Mandan, a pleasant little city, nestling under
+low ranges of hills which encompass it on three sides. This is the
+terminus of the Missouri and Dakota divisions of the road. The change
+from Central to Mountain time is made at this point, and the west-bound
+traveler sets his watch back one hour.</p>
+
+<p>The country west of the Missouri river presents an entirely different
+appearance from that through which the tourist has been traveling since
+he entered the Territory at Fargo. It is more diversified; its numerous
+streams, with handsome groves of cottonwood upon their banks, meandering
+through pleasant valleys, clothed, where still uncultivated, with that
+nutritious bunch grass, which, but a few short years ago, made them the
+favorite feeding grounds of the buffalo. The vast beds of lignite coal
+that underlie this portion of the Territory crop out at various points,
+twelve car loads being mined daily at Sims, 35 miles west of Mandan, for
+shipment by rail. The most important settlements on this division of the
+road are Gladstone and Dickinson.</p>
+
+<p>Twenty miles west of the latter town, the line enters the singular and
+picturesque region known as the Bad Lands of the Little Missouri. For a
+full hour the train pursues its way through scenery of which the whole
+world is not known to afford any counterpart.</p>
+
+<p>The product of natural forces, still working to the same end, the
+picture that meets the astonished gaze of the traveler, suggests, where
+it does not utterly bewilder, either supernatural agency or the
+operation of laws whose reign has ceased. Reasonable hypotheses all
+failing, one's imagination connects the weird and mysterious scene with
+some early geologic epoch when, perchance under the brooding darkness of
+night, the yet plastic earth was tortured by some wild spirit of Caprice
+into the fantastic forms in which we see it to-day. But evidences of
+intelligent design are not altogether wanting, and we turn from mounds
+of wonderful regularity and symmetry of form, standing like Egyptian
+pyramids, to reproductions of the frowning battlements of Gibraltar or
+Ehrenbreitstein, or the dome and towers of some great cathedral.</p>
+
+<p>Marvelous as they are, however, these forms and outlines excite even
+less astonishment than the wealth of coloring in which they are arrayed.
+Composed largely of clay, solidified by pressure, and converted into
+terra-cotta by the slow combustion of underlying masses of lignite, each
+dome and pyramid and mimic castle is encircled with chromatic bands
+presenting vivid and startling contrasts. Huge petrifactions and vast<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span>
+masses of scoria contribute to the weirdness of the scene, and, as if to
+complete its plutonic appearance, smoke goes up unceasingly from
+unquenchable subterranean fires.</p>
+
+<p>It is a mistake to suppose that these lands are worthless for
+agricultural or stock-raising purposes. The valleys and ravines are
+covered with nutritious grasses, and thousands of cattle may be seen
+grazing where the buffalo and other herbivorous wild animals were wont
+to roam in days gone by. The term &ldquo;Bad Lands&rdquo; is a careless and
+incomplete translation of the designation bestowed upon the country by
+the early French <i>voyageurs</i>, who described it as &ldquo;<i>mauvaises terres
+pour traverser</i>.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>At the crossing of the Little Missouri, the Marquis de Mores, a wealthy
+young French nobleman, has established the headquarters of an extensive
+stock raising and dressed meat shipping business.</p>
+
+<p>From this point, Medora, excursions may be made to Cedar Cañon, one of
+the most interesting localities in the Bad Lands; or to the burning
+mine, where may be seen, raging, perhaps the most extensive of the
+subterranean fires of the entire region. It is also a good point from
+which to start out on hunting expeditions, large game being by no means
+exterminated.</p>
+
+<p>Sixteen miles beyond the Little Missouri, the train passes Sentinel
+Butte, a lofty peak rising precipitously from the plain on the south
+side of the railroad. One mile more and the Montana boundary is crossed,
+at an elevation of 2,840 feet above sea-level.</p>
+
+<p>In crossing the great Territory of Dakota, the tourist has traveled 367
+miles; in traversing that of Montana, he performs a journey of no less
+than 800 miles, almost equivalent to the distance from New York to
+Indianapolis. Fortunately, the luxurious appointments of the train
+render weariness well nigh impossible, and the trip hourly becomes more
+interesting and enjoyable.</p>
+
+<p>At Glendive, 692 miles from St. Paul, the road enters the valley of the
+Yellowstone, the windings of which famous river it follows, more or less
+closely, for 340 miles.</p>
+
+<p>The valley, from five to ten miles in width, is inclosed by high bluffs
+of clay and sandstone, their curious formations occasionally reminding
+the traveler of the Bad Lands, though they have but little variety of
+color.</p>
+
+<p>If the Red River of the North may justly be regarded as the true
+Arimaspes, the Yellowstone may, with equal propriety, be designated the
+modern Amphrysus. It is upon its banks and those of its tributaries that
+there has been developed, since the opening of the Northern Pacific
+Railroad, that vast grazing interest which has given Montana as great a
+reputation for its stock as Dakota has for its wheat.</p>
+
+<p>For many years,&mdash;up to and including the winter of 1881&ndash;82,&mdash;this was
+the finest buffalo hunting country on the continent. But the slaughter
+that season was enormous, 250,000 hides being shipped East, principally
+from Miles City. Few have been seen since that time. There are hunters
+who believe that small herds might still be found north of the
+international boundary; but, so far as the United States is concerned,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span>
+the buffalo is practically extinct. There is, however, a small herd in
+the National Park. Safe from the hunter's deadly repeater, they will
+probably multiply rapidly, as it may be supposed that they will soon
+know instinctively the limits within which they are unmolested.</p>
+
+<p>Miles City, a few years ago the principal rendezvous of the hunter, is
+now the great resort of the grazier and cowboy, it being the metropolis
+of the stock interest of the Territory.</p>
+
+<p>The development of this interest within recent years has been as rapid
+as that of wheat raising in Dakota, and the economist who should turn to
+the United States census reports for 1880 for the present condition of
+any considerable section of the Northwest would be led seriously astray.</p>
+
+<p>In 1880, Montana contained 490,000 cattle and 520,000 sheep. According
+to a recent report of the Governor of the Territory, it contains, at the
+present time, 900,000 cattle, 1,200,000 sheep, and 120,000 horses. The
+grazing interests of the West are moving steadily toward Eastern
+Montana; for, so rapidly do cattle thrive on the nutritious grasses of
+these northern valleys, that a yearling steer is worth $10 more in
+Montana than in Texas.</p>
+
+<p>Glendive, already mentioned as the point at which the railroad enters
+the Yellowstone valley, is second only to Miles City in importance as a
+shipping and distributing point. It is also a divisional terminus of the
+railroad.</p>
+
+<p>Two miles west of Miles City is Fort Keogh, one of the largest and most
+beautiful military posts in the United States. It was established in
+1877 by Gen. Nelson A. Miles, as a means of holding in check the warlike
+Sioux. There are but few Indians to be seen now along the line of the
+railroad, and those are engaged in agricultural and industrial pursuits.
+The extinction of the buffalo has rendered the Indian much more amenable
+to the civilizing influences brought to bear upon him than he formerly
+was, and very fair crops of grain are now being raised at the various
+agencies. At the Devil's Lake Agency, 60,000 bushels of wheat were
+raised in 1885, and purchased by the United States Government at $1 per
+hundred pounds. The Crows, along the northern border of whose
+reservation&mdash;nearly as large as the State of Massachusetts&mdash;the road
+runs for two hundred miles, are said to be the richest nation in the
+world, in proportion to their numbers, their wealth aggregating $3,500
+per head. This, however, is due to the natural increase of their live
+stock, chiefly ponies, rather than to their own industry and thrift.</p>
+
+<p>Out amid the solitudes of the far Northwest&mdash;for it must not be supposed
+that the entire country is a succession of settlements&mdash;it is wonderful
+with what interest the traveler regards that trivial event of daily
+occurrence, the meeting of the east-bound train. But, as he peers
+through the car window, or stands out on the platform, in critical
+survey of its passengers, it probably does not occur to him that he is
+as much an object of curiosity to them as they are, each of them, to
+him. He represents the far East of this great continent, they the far
+West. He, perchance, is making his first trip to the Pacific slope, they
+theirs to the Great Lakes or the Atlantic coast. Among them, however,
+may be distinguished merry groups of returning tourists, while,
+reclining in a luxurious Pullman car, or tempting dyspepsia with the
+rich and varied dainties of the dining car, may be seen one of the early
+settlers of California, a weather-beaten pioneer, who reached the
+Pacific slope by way of the Horn, twenty years ahead of the first
+transcontinental railway, and now goes east, by the Wonderland route, to
+revisit the scenes of his childhood.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/img_018_h.jpg">
+     <img src="images/img_018.jpg" width="225" height="300"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+   </a>
+<p class="caption">VIEWS OF &ldquo;OLD FAITHFUL&rdquo; GEYSER, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Twenty-nine miles east of Billings, the next divisional terminus and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span>
+important trading point on the line of the road, the traveler will
+observe, rising from the right bank of the river, a huge mass of
+sandstone, interesting as bearing upon its face the name of William
+Clarke, cut in the rock by the veteran explorer himself, when he visited
+the locality in 1806. He will, about the same time, be able dimly to
+descry the peaks of the Big Snow Mountains, which, at first scarcely
+distinguishable from the fleecy clouds that hang around them,
+subsequently loom up grandly, constituting one of the most beautiful
+pieces of scenery in the Northwest.</p>
+
+<p>The disciple of Izaak Walton will not have traveled 225 miles along the
+banks of the Yellowstone without having seen many an inviting spot for
+indulgence in what his great master called the most calm, quiet and
+innocent of all recreations. His arrival, therefore, at Billings, the
+largest town on the upper river, and the metropolis&mdash;notwithstanding
+that it has a population of only 2,000&mdash;of a region larger than Maine,
+South Carolina, West Virginia or Indiana, affords a not unfitting
+opportunity for a brief reference to the incomparable trout fishing
+afforded by the numerous streams accessible from points on the Montana
+and Yellowstone divisions of the road.</p>
+
+<p>The Yellowstone river itself, west of Billings, has no superior as a
+trout stream. It contains trout of four distinct varieties, and fishing
+is so easy as at times to be in danger of losing its charm. The
+individual scores of various tourists, reported in the <i>American Angler</i>
+during the summer and fall of 1885, and not containing any that were
+phenomenally large, averaged twenty-five trout per hour for each rod, a
+record with which the most ardent angler ought surely to be satisfied. A
+majority of these scores were made in the vicinity of Livingston, near
+which town another visitor is reported to have caught twenty-one fine,
+large trout &ldquo;after supper,&rdquo; while two others are stated to have brought
+in 160 as the result of &ldquo;a day's sport.&rdquo; The Yellowstone also contains a
+gamey fish known to local anglers as grayling, but pronounced by Mr. W.
+C. Harris to be the whitefish (<i>Corregonus tullibee</i>). That gentleman
+refers, in a recent article, to the abundance, in these waters, of the
+celebrated &ldquo;cut-throat&rdquo; trout, whose size and abundance, in conjunction
+with the picturesqueness of its habitat, will, he adds, when generally
+known, &ldquo;make a visit to the Yellowstone imperative to the angler who
+aspires to a well-rounded life as a rodster.&rdquo; Among other waters,
+mention may be made of Rosebud Lake, a beautiful spot reached by wagon
+from Billings, where the trout fishing is declared to be splendid;
+Little Rosebud Creek, near Stillwater, where eighty-seven trout are
+reported to have been caught in four hours with a single rod; Prior<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span>
+Creek, near Huntley; Mission Creek, twelve miles east of Livingston; and
+Sixteen-Mile Creek, sixteen miles from Townsend, all of which are said
+by visitors to afford excellent sport.</p>
+
+<p>It must not, however, be supposed that the angler enjoys a monopoly of
+sport in this country of varied attractions; for grouse and ducks are
+plentiful, as are also, on the mountain ranges, deer, elk and antelope.</p>
+
+<p>Passing Springdale, where the traveler will observe hacks in readiness
+to convey visitors to Hunter's Hot Springs, two and one-half miles
+distant, the train approaches, amid scenery increasing in grandeur, the
+little city of Livingston. Whatever interest may, in the near future,
+attach to this place as a resort of the gentle brotherhood from all
+parts of the continent, it will certainly fall short of that which will
+belong to it as the gateway of that world-renowned region, the</p>
+
+<h3>YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.</h3>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Situated,&rdquo; to quote the distinguished geologist, Professor John Muir,
+of California, who recently visited it, &ldquo;in the heart of the Rocky
+Mountains, on the broad, rugged summit of the continent, amid snow and
+ice, and dark, shaggy forests, where the great rivers take their rise,
+it surpasses in wakeful, exciting interest any other region yet
+discovered on the face of the globe.&rdquo; While it contains the most
+beautiful and sublime of mountain, lake and forest scenery, its fame
+rests, not upon that, but upon the extraordinary assemblage of the
+curious products of Nature's caprice, and the infinitely wonderful
+manifestations of almost extinct forms of her energy that are found
+within its borders. Approached by a branch of the Northern Pacific
+Railroad, extending southward from Livingston to its northern boundary,
+and the only railroad within one hundred miles, this remarkable region
+has, by a judicious expenditure of public money and by admirable
+individual and corporate enterprise, been rendered so easy of
+exploration that the tourist may within the brief period of five days
+visit all its most interesting points.</p>
+
+<p>So majestically do the snow-capped mountains tower above the lesser
+hills that inclose the charming valley whose various windings the
+railroad follows, from Livingston to Cinnabar, that the traveler can
+scarcely believe that still more magnificent scenery lies beyond. And
+truly the cloud-piercing Emigrant's Peak, with its famous mining gulch;
+the yet loftier Electric Peak; the colossal Sphinx; and that most
+singular formation, the Devil's Slide, form the most fitting
+introduction that the human mind can conceive to the wonders of the
+National Park.</p>
+
+<p>Conveyed by an excellently equipped Concord coach from the terminus of
+the railroad to the hotel at Mammoth Hot Springs, six miles distant, the
+tourist finds himself surrounded by all the conveniences of modern hotel
+life.</p>
+
+<p>And within full view of the hotel, from which they are distant but a few
+hundred yards, are the exquisitely filigreed and richly colored terraces
+formed by the Mammoth Hot Springs, not the least of the wonders of this
+famous region. Here one hardly knows whether to admire more the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>
+delicacy of the formation or that of the coloring, the former not being
+excelled by that of the finest lace, while the latter surpasses, both in
+brilliancy, harmony, and subtle gradations, any chromatic effects known
+to exist beyond the limits of this enchanted ground.</p>
+
+<p>The keenest interest of the newly arrived tourist, however, usually
+centres in those constantly recurring evidences of tremendous force, the
+geysers. With few and unimportant exceptions, these are found within the
+limits of certain distinctly marked areas, known as the upper, middle,
+lower and Norris basins, to which one or two days' time is devoted,
+according to circumstances. The most celebrated of the geysers&mdash;those
+with whose names the world has been made familiar by the pen, brush or
+camera of author or artist&mdash;are in the upper basin. Here are found the
+Giant and Giantess, the Castle and Grotto, the Bee Hive, the Splendid
+and the Grand. Here, too, is Old Faithful, the constancy of whose hourly
+eruption makes it impossible for even the most hurried visitor to the
+upper basin to leave without witnessing at least one display of its
+tremendous energy.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/img_021_h.jpg">
+     <img src="images/img_021.jpg" width="400" height="169"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+   </a>
+<p class="caption">MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS HOTEL&mdash;YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The reader, who, not having visited the National Park, has yet gazed
+into some of the profound gorges to be found in the great mountain
+ranges of the far West, will read with astonishment, if not with
+incredulity, that there is but one cañon in the world,&mdash;the Grand Cañon
+of the Yellowstone. Perhaps slightly exceeded in depth, as it certainly
+is in gloom, it is yet made to stand pre-eminent among the natural
+wonders of the world by the majesty of its cataract and the gorgeous
+blazonry of its walls. To say that the former&mdash;no mere silver ribbon of
+spray, but a fall of great volume&mdash;is a little more than twice the
+height of Niagara, would, by means of a familiar comparison, enable
+almost any one to form a not altogether inadequate conception of its
+grandeur. But for the matchless adornment of its walls, we have no
+available comparison; naught but itself can be its parallel. One great
+writer describes it as being hung with rainbows, like glorious banners.
+Another, borrowing from Mr. Ruskin, likens it to a great cathedral,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span>
+with painted windows, and full of treasures of illuminated manuscript.
+But, as we take our stand on the brink of the Falls, with twelve miles
+of sculptured rock spread out before us, rising from 1,500 to 2,000 feet
+in height, and all aflame with glowing color, we have to acknowledge,
+with a distinguished writer and a no less celebrated artist, that,
+neither by the most cunningly wrought fabric of language, nor the most
+skillful manipulation of color, is it possible to create in the mind a
+conception answering to this sublime reality. For countless ages, frost
+and snow, heat and vapor, lightning and rain, torrent and glacier, have
+wrought upon that mysterious rock, evolving from its iron, its sulphur,
+its arsenic, its lime and its lava, the glorious apparel in which it
+stands arrayed. And the wondrous fabrication is still going on. The
+bewildered traveler would scarcely be surprised to see the gorgeous
+spectacle fade from his vision like a dream: but its texture is
+continually being renewed; the giant forces are ever at work; still do
+they&mdash;</p>
+
+<p style="font-size: 90%; margin-left: 36%; text-indent: -0.4em;">
+<b>&ldquo;Sit at the busy loom of time and ply,<br />
+Weaving for God the garment thou seest Him by.&rdquo;</b></p>
+
+<p>For the minor wonders of this world of marvels, the formations of
+geyserite and the petrified forests, Tower and Gibbon Falls and the
+cliffs of volcanic glass, the caldrons of boiling mud and transparent
+pools of sapphire blue, the reader is referred to special guides to the
+Park.</p>
+
+<p>It only remains to be stated that there is regularly established
+transportation daily between all the principal points, that the
+distances are not fatiguing, that the charges are reasonable, and the
+equipment everything that could be desired.</p>
+
+<p>The angler need scarcely be reminded that this is the far-famed region
+where the juxtaposition of streams of hot and cold water enables him to
+cook his fish as fast as he can catch them, without moving from his seat
+or taking them off the hook!</p>
+
+<h3>WESTWARD STILL.</h3>
+
+<p>Resuming his westward journey at Livingston, the traveler finds himself
+ascending the first of the two great mountain barriers that had to be
+surmounted by the engineers of the Northern Pacific Railroad. By a grade
+of 116 feet to the mile, the line reaches, twelve miles from Livingston,
+an elevation of 5,565 feet above sea-level. Here it is carried under the
+crest of the range by a tunnel 3,610 feet in length, from which it
+emerges into a fine, rocky cañon, at the western portal of which is the
+military post of Fort Ellis. A few minutes more, and the train runs into
+Bozeman, a beautifully situated and flourishing little city of twenty
+years' growth. Few cities can boast of more magnificent scenery,
+majestic snow-capped ranges standing out against the sky on every side.</p>
+
+<p>Westward for thirty miles extends the rich and fertile Gallatin valley.
+It is no uncommon thing to get forty bushels of hard spring wheat, or
+sixty bushels of fall wheat, to the acre in this valley, and its barley<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>
+is of such superior excellence as to be in great demand for malting
+purposes at Milwaukee and other Eastern cities.</p>
+
+<p>Twenty-nine miles west of Bozeman, are Gallatin City, and the bright
+little town of Three Forks, commanding the valleys of the Madison and
+Jefferson, the agricultural lands of which, now being brought under
+cultivation, are not inferior to those of the older settled valley of
+the Gallatin.</p>
+
+<p>Four miles more, and the tourist comes upon a point of considerable
+geographical interest, the three mountain streams just mentioned pouring
+their waters into a common channel, to form the Missouri river. It is
+through a rocky cañon, abounding in wild and magnificent scenery, that
+the greatest river on the continent enters upon its long course of 4,450
+miles. For nearly fifty miles, the line follows its various windings,
+until finally the river runs away northward through that profound chasm
+known as the Grand Cañon of the Missouri, or the Gates of the Rocky
+Mountains. Visitors to Helena will find an excursion to the Grand Cañon,
+occupying not necessarily more than two days' time, one of the most
+delightful experiences of their transcontinental journey.</p>
+
+<p>The most important town between Bozeman and Helena, is Townsend, the
+shipping and distributing point for no inconsiderable portion of one of
+the best counties in Montana. It has daily communication by coach with
+White Sulphur Springs, a health resort of great local repute. This
+coming rival of older and hitherto more famous spas, lies in a beautiful
+valley, 5,070 feet above sea-level, and surrounded by the grandest of
+Rocky Mountain scenery. Its accommodations for visitors of all classes
+are most excellent, including, as they do, one of the best hotels in the
+Territory. Six miles distant are Castle Mountain and Crystal Cave, the
+latter a cavern of great extent, having twenty-three separate chambers,
+full of curious and beautiful stalactitic and stalagmitic formations.
+The town, mountain and cavern were all fully described and admirably
+illustrated in the <i>West Shore Magazine</i> for July, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>Not so much by way of tribute, either to its own beauty or that of its
+situation, as in recognition of its wealth, its commercial importance
+and the commanding position it has so long occupied in the mining world,
+Helena, the capital of the Territory, is called the Queen of the
+Mountains. Situated on the eastern slope of the continental divide,
+1,155 miles from St. Paul, it became a great distributing point and
+financial centre, even when hundreds of miles of mountain and prairie
+separated it from the nearest railroad. Dependent upon the Missouri
+river for its commercial intercourse with the world, it was in a state
+of well-nigh complete isolation during the greater part of every year.
+Under other conditions, this comparative isolation would have stunted
+its growth and cramped the energies of its people. But with the assured
+product of their labor such a commodity as gold, with its universality
+of demand and stability of value, the sturdy settlers in Last Chance
+Gulch had always the most powerful of incentives to restless energy.
+With the steadily increasing production of the precious metals, if not<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span>
+in its own immediate vicinity, at least in the country it dominated,
+Helena grew rich, until now it claims to be the wealthiest city of its
+size in the United States.</p>
+
+<p>It was on the afternoon of the 15th of July, 1864, that a party of four
+miners, weary and sick at heart, pitched their tents in that
+desolate-looking gulch where now stands this flourishing city.
+Disappointed at not being able to secure claims in the then prosperous
+camp of Virginia City, and reduced to great extremity, they regarded the
+little gulch on the Prickly Pear as their &ldquo;last chance.&rdquo; Finding gold in
+paying quantities, they resolved to settle down; and it is said, that,
+before two years had elapsed, each of them was worth $50,000.</p>
+
+<p>In the meantime, the little camp in what was thenceforward known as Last
+Chance Gulch had attracted miners from all parts of the Rocky Mountains.
+It is stated, in a recent official publication of the Territory, that
+the gulch yielded $30,000,000 during the first three seasons it was
+worked; but these figures so far exceed the popular estimate, that they
+are repeated only under reserve. The present annual production is said
+to be about $50,000. It would seem to the visitor as though every square
+foot of ground had been dug up, and, if it be his first experience of a
+placer mining district, its appearance will strike him as singularly
+novel.</p>
+
+<p>The romance of mining is well illustrated by the story of the citizen of
+Helena who was digging out a cellar to his house, when a passing
+stranger offered to remove the pile of earth that was being heaped up in
+the roadway, and promised to return with one-half of whatever dust he
+might obtain by the washing to which he proposed to submit it.
+Permission granted and the earth removed, the citizen thought no more of
+the matter. Great, therefore, was his astonishment when, a few days
+later, the half-forgotten face of the stranger appeared at the door, and
+he was handed, as his share of the yield of that unpromising dirt, the
+equivalent of $650.</p>
+
+<p>Possibly, however, a story involving only a paltry sum of three figures,
+may not answer to the reader's conception of the romantic. It does not
+excite his imagination. He expects to read of millions. If so, let us
+turn to the story of the miner, who, confident that he was the possessor
+of a valuable claim, held on to it in spite of the most adverse
+circumstances, hiring himself out in winter that he might have a little
+money wherewith to work upon his claim in summer, until, at last, after
+eight years of indomitable perseverance and patient toil, he was able to
+sell his property for $2,250,000; or that of the weary and penniless
+wanderer, who, having tramped all the way from Nevada, began a toilsome
+search, to be continued through much suffering and privation for several
+years, but destined to be rewarded at last by the discovery of one of
+the richest veins of gold in the Territory, a vein that has yielded, up
+to the present time, $4,000,000 worth of gold.</p>
+
+<p>The tourist will find an hour's chat with an old-timer an interesting
+and not altogether unprofitable exercise, albeit he may find it hard to
+discriminate between statements that he may venture to repeat and those<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span>
+made for his especial benefit as a tenderfoot.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft">
+   <a href="images/img_025_h.jpg">
+     <img src="images/img_025.jpg" width="293" height="400"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+   </a>
+<p class="caption">YELLOWSTONE RIVER, NATIONAL PARK.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>He need not, however, discredit such stories as that a four-mule team
+once hauled to Fort Benton, for transportation down the Missouri river,
+two and one-half tons of gold, valued at $1,500,000; nor yet, that in
+the early days potatoes were worth fifty cents per pound, and flour one
+dollar, or that oranges were sold at a dollar each, and small pineapples
+at seven dollars. These are facts not more startling than many others
+that might be quoted. In the mining world, at least, truth is positively
+stranger than fiction.</p>
+
+<p>The annual production of the precious metals in Montana has increased
+enormously within recent years, doubling itself between 1880 and 1882,
+and trebling between 1882 and 1884. The annual output now approaches
+$30,000,000, and the Territory stands at the head of the gold-producing
+regions of the world, notwithstanding that upward of $200,000,000 worth<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>
+has been extracted from its soil.</p>
+
+<p>Among the many famous mines on the eastern slope of the mountains are
+the Drum Lumon, shipping $80,000 worth of bullion per month, of which
+fully one-half may be set down as profit; the Gloster, shipping $50,000
+worth per month; the Whitlach Union, long the most celebrated gold mine
+in the Territory; those of Red Mountain, said to be the most important
+undeveloped mineral field in the United States; the Clark's Fork,
+bordering on the National Park, and now yielding, and with no railroad
+facilities, 855 tons of ore per day; those of the Helena Mining and
+Reduction Company at Wickes, reached by a branch of the Northern Pacific
+Railroad from Prickly Pear Junction, and known to have shipped as much
+as $125,000 worth of ore in a single month; and the Lexington, which has
+produced silver ore averaging in assay value from $15,000 to $20,000 per
+ton. Visitors to the New Orleans Exposition of 1884&ndash;85 will remember the
+magnificent exhibits from the last-mentioned mine, as also those from
+the Cable and Drum Lumon mines, the latter including one solid chunk of
+high-grade ore weighing 1,715 pounds.</p>
+
+<p>The most valuable gold nugget ever found in Montana is said to have been
+worth about $3,200. There is a nugget in the vault of the First National
+Bank at Helena, weighing 47.7 ounces, and valued at $945.80. But the
+most interesting sight in the city is, undoubtedly, the process of
+assaying at the United States Assay Office, where may also be seen those
+marvelously adjusted and delicately graduated scales, by which the
+weight of even an eye-lash can be exactly determined.</p>
+
+<p>The next stage of the traveler's journey westward from Helena lies
+across</p>
+
+<h3>THE MAIN RANGE OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.</h3>
+
+<p>It is by way of the Mullan Pass&mdash;so named from the fact of Lieut. John
+Mullan, U. S. A., having built a wagon road through it in 1867, to
+connect Fort Benton, Mont., with Fort Walla Walla, W. T.,&mdash;that the
+railroad is carried over the continental divide. The highest elevation
+of the pass itself is 5,855 feet; but, by the construction of a tunnel
+3,850 feet in length, the line was made to reach the western slope
+without attaining a higher elevation than 5,547 feet.</p>
+
+<p>It is not until Butler is reached, thirteen miles from Helena, that
+either the scenery or the construction of the road calls for special
+notice. But at that point the scenery becomes exceedingly picturesque,
+the rocks towering above the pines and spruce like the ruins of some
+ancient stronghold. From now on, too, the tourist will find constant
+employment in observing how the gigantic barriers, which seem to forbid
+all further progress, are, one after another, overcome.</p>
+
+<p>Amid scenery increasing in wildness and grandeur, the train pursues its
+tortuous course; through Iron Ridge Tunnel, near which the track forms
+an almost perfect letter S; across innumerable ravines; along rocky<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span>
+shelves and through deep cuttings, until at last it enters the eastern
+portal of the Mullan Tunnel. A few minutes later the traveler is looking
+out upon the grassy hills and pleasant valleys of the Pacific slope, the
+approach to the tunnel from the west presenting a singular contrast to
+the savage grandeur that distinguishes the approach from the east.</p>
+
+<p>Following the valley of the Little Blackfoot, the train presently
+arrives at Garrison, where passengers desirous of visiting the most
+flourishing mining city on the American continent, if not in the world,
+must change cars.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The most flourishing mining city on the American continent, if not in
+the world!&rdquo; exclaims the reader. Even so; and yet we are not in Nevada,
+nor yet in Colorado; and, besides, the former is about played out; and,
+as for Leadville, every one remembers the disasters that overtook her,
+culminating, as they did, in the failure of all her four banks. The city
+is Butte, that, at the last United States census, had a population of
+only 3,363, but now claims six times that number, and has a monthly
+mining pay-roll of $620,000.</p>
+
+<p>The line from Garrison runs through the beautiful Deer Lodge valley, in
+which are many fine farms. Deer Lodge City, the judicial seat of the
+county, is pleasantly situated 4,546 feet above sea-level. Being well
+laid out, it presents, with its wide streets and handsome public
+buildings, an exceedingly attractive appearance.</p>
+
+<p>It is at the head of this valley, on the western slope of the main range
+of the Rocky Mountains, and fifteen miles from the Pipestone Pass, that
+there has been witnessed, during the last three or four years, that
+rapid growth of population and wealth that is without parallel, even in
+the marvelous annals of mining. Here, encompassed on three sides by
+lofty ranges of mountains, Butte pours forth the smoke of its
+innumerable furnaces; for not only is its production of silver so great
+that it has come to be designated the &ldquo;Silver City,&rdquo; but its copper
+mines are such as to give employment to the most extensive smelting
+works in the United States. Its total production during 1885, valued at
+$15,000,000, viz., $5,000,000 worth of bullion and $10,000,000 worth of
+copper matte, was twice that of Utah, and three times that of Nevada. It
+also exceeded that of the whole of California, or the combined
+production of Idaho, New Mexico and Arizona.</p>
+
+<p>The leading silver mines of the district are the Alice, Moulton,
+Lexington and Silver Bow, which alone employ 210 stamps and produce 230
+tons of ore daily. The magnificent appliances of the Alice mine,
+including the great Cornish pump that cost $40,000, are the wonder of
+every visitor. The process of reduction, here as elsewhere, is somewhat
+complex, especially in the case of the baser ores, being in part
+chemical and in part mechanical. It involves the crushing of the ore to
+powder, under the pressure of enormous bars of iron, weighing 900 pounds
+each, and known as &ldquo;stamps,&rdquo; and its subsequent roasting in large,
+hollow cylinders, salt being largely employed in the former, and
+quicksilver in the latter, stage of the operation. The roasting mills of
+the Alice mines treat 100 tons of ore per day, and their bullion<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span>
+product approaches $100,000 per month.</p>
+
+<p>The great Lexington property, which has produced $1,000,000 per annum
+for four years, is owned by a French company. It claims to be the most
+complete mine in the entire West, and it is certainly one of the richest
+and most extensive.</p>
+
+<p>The Moulton and Silver Bow have a daily capacity of forty and thirty
+tons of ore respectively. They are magnificent properties, well
+developed and exceedingly productive. The former makes the proud boast
+of working its ore to a higher percentage of its value than any other
+mill in the district.</p>
+
+<p>But it is the copper mines and smelters that represent the largest
+capital; give employment to the greatest number of men; have the largest
+production, both in tonnage and aggregate value; and, it may be added,
+make the most smoke.</p>
+
+<p>At the head of the rich and powerful companies engaged in this industry,
+stands the Anaconda,&mdash;its mine at Butte, the greatest copper property in
+America; its smelting works, at the neighboring town of Anaconda, the
+largest of their kind in the world. Sold, five years ago, for an amount
+that would not now be more than sufficient to pay its employés a week's
+wages, its property is roughly estimated to be worth $15,000,000. With
+certain contemplated additions to its smelting capacity, it will handle
+daily 1,200 tons of ore, yielding 180 tons of matte, or 108 tons of pure
+copper. Its entire machinery run by water-power, it yet requires for its
+furnaces no less than 180 cords of wood per day; in view of which
+enormous consumption it is stated to have recently let a contract for
+300,000 cords, representing upward of $1,000,000. Second only to this
+gigantic concern, is the Parrott Company, whose total matte output for
+1884 was 14,856,323 pounds, containing 9,324,805 pounds of pure copper,
+valued, including its silver contents, at about $1,250,000. With largely
+increased capacity, its production of pure copper will probably have
+reached 15,000,000 pounds in the year just drawing to a close. Among
+other leading companies, may be mentioned the Montana, owning some of
+the richest and most steadily productive mining property in process of
+development; Clark's Colusa, said to have in sight, above the 300-foot
+level, at least 150,000 tons of valuable ore; and the Bell and Colorado,
+two of the richest copper-silver mines in the district.</p>
+
+<p>So much for the mines and smelting works of Butte. What of the city
+itself? Briefly, it may be said to be a typical Western town, as seen in
+flush times; nothing too big for it, nothing too good; its quivering
+energy finding expression, now in the erection of a $150,000 court
+house, and now in that of the finest opera house on the Pacific slope,
+outside of San Francisco; its business enterprise filling magnificent
+stores with costly goods, suited to the tastes, pocket-books and
+spending proclivities of a community that on last Christmas eve spent
+$6,000 in presents in a single one of its stores.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/img_029_h.jpg">
+     <img src="images/img_029.jpg" width="231" height="300"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+   </a>
+<p class="caption">FALLS OF THE GIBBON RIVER, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>There are several good trout streams in the vicinity of Butte, and it is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>
+pleasant to know that, in a city whose amusements are mainly of a very
+different character, there are those who know how to handle the rod.</p>
+
+<p>Proceeding westward from Garrison, the traveler will have some fine
+views of mountain scenery, including the snow-clad peaks of Mount
+Powell. Drummond, twenty-one miles west, is the station for the rich
+mining districts of New Chicago and Phillipsburg. Granite Mountain mine,
+near the latter place, is exceedingly rich. A vein of ore, six feet
+wide, and assaying from 125 to 2,000 ounces of silver to the ton, is now
+being worked, the output reaching $120,000 per month.</p>
+
+<p>Soon the train enters Hell Gate Cañon, at first a beautiful valley, from
+two to three miles in width, but narrowing as we go westward, until from
+between its stupendous walls we suddenly emerge upon a broad plateau,
+where stands the city of Missoula. Formerly a remote and isolated
+frontier post, Missoula is now a place of considerable importance.
+Extending southward for ninety miles is the valley of the Bitter Root
+river, well watered, exceedingly fertile and thickly settled. Here are
+raised fine crops of wheat and oats, as well as vegetables, apples and
+strawberries.</p>
+
+<p>The tourist has now entered the finest game country in the Northwest. At
+any point along the line, for a distance of nearly three hundred miles,
+he will find deer, elk and bear in great abundance. Let him but place
+himself on their trail, and he will certainly soon have them within
+gunshot. Even in the vicinity of Missoula there is excellent sport, one
+local trapper obtaining $160 bounty for bear last season. Ducks and
+prairie chickens are also plentiful, and various species of trout abound
+in the mountain streams.</p>
+
+<p>The most interesting, as it is the most accessible, of the Indian
+reservations contiguous to the line of the Northern Pacific Railroad, is
+that of the Flathead tribe, through which the line runs for many miles
+in the course of its north-westward sweep from Missoula. At Arlee
+station, the visitor is within five miles of the agency, and at Ravalli
+a like distance from St. Ignatius mission. For a full account of the
+excellent work carried on among the Indians by the Jesuit Fathers,
+together with an exceedingly interesting description of the Flathead
+country generally, the reader is referred to an article in the <i>Century
+Magazine</i> for October, 1882, from the accomplished pen of Mr. E. V.
+Smalley, as well as to sundry articles in that gentleman's own magazine,
+<i>The Northwest</i>. From a point about 500 feet from the summit of
+Macdonald's Peak, a few miles north of Ravalli, there is a remarkable
+view of a deep mountain gorge known as Pumpelly Cañon, which has many of
+the striking features of the Yosemite valley, in California. Two
+waterfalls, having an apparent height of about 800 feet, leap into this
+profound rocky cañon, and form a small circular lake of a dark blue
+color. This lake falls, by another cataract, into a second lake of
+exactly the same size and shape as the first, while still another
+cataract leaps from the lower lake into a deep ravine filled with
+magnificent forest trees. An excursion to Macdonald's Peak may be made
+from the mission in a single day. Tourists are, however, recommended to
+take blankets and provisions, and encamp upon the crest of the mountain<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span>
+to witness the sunrise. Saddle horses are obtainable at the mission, and
+there is a good trail all the way.</p>
+
+<p>Thompson Falls, 101 miles west of Missoula, is the starting point for
+the C&oelig;ur d'Alène mines. The distress that followed the arrival in
+this district, in 1883, of several thousand half-starving adventurers,
+who, expecting to pick up in a few hours' time nuggets enough to make
+them rich for life, brought neither blankets to protect them from the
+cold of winter, nor the means of returning to their far-distant homes,
+or even of reaching less remote centres where work could be obtained,
+gave the C&oelig;ur d'Alène mines a blow from which they were slow to
+recover. The development that has since taken place, especially since
+the introduction of hydraulics, has, however, abundantly demonstrated
+that former claims as to the richness and permanence of the mines were
+well founded, and we shall probably soon see here the richest placer
+mining camp in the world.</p>
+
+<p>The matchless river scenery that has done so much toward placing the
+Northern Pacific Railroad system in the proud position it occupies
+to-day at the head of the scenic railways of America, is not alone that
+of the peerless Columbia. For 140 miles of its course, in Western
+Montana and the Panhandle of Idaho, it follows the windings of a stream
+that for grand and imposing scenery is second only to that renowned
+river itself. Should the traveler wake up in the morning, anywhere
+between the point at which the waters of the Missoula empty themselves
+into the bright green flood of the Pend d'Oreille river and the head of
+Pend d'Oreille Lake, he will almost certainly suppose that it is in the
+current of the far-famed Columbia that he sees reflected, perhaps
+hundreds of feet beneath him, the varying forms of those stately
+mountains that soar thousands of feet above. But he is as yet almost a
+day's journey from the classic regions of the Columbia, albeit the
+lordly stream, whose scenery will be, hour after hour, a succession of
+surprises and delights to him, is one of the principal forks of that
+mighty river, whose still grander scenery it may be said to foreshadow
+in miniature.</p>
+
+<p>Between the Yellowstone National Park, on the one hand, and the Columbia
+river, on the other, Clark's Fork and the beautiful lake into which it
+widens out before turning northward to the British possessions, have
+been almost completely overshadowed. But their ten thousand beauties
+will assert themselves. They have not to be sought for in out-of-the-way
+places, nor are they so localized that a mere passing glimpse is the
+only reward of strained attention as the train flies onward. On the
+contrary, from an early hour in the morning until long past noon, there
+is a continuous unfolding of scenes in which are combined, with Nature's
+inimitable skill and infinite variety, all that is grandest in mountain,
+all that is most graceful in woodland and stream. So evenly distributed
+are the beauties of this long stretch of river scenery, that it is not
+easy to single out particular points as calling for special notice.
+There are, however, two that must arrest the attention and command the
+admiration of every traveler. The first, one mile east of Cabinet, where
+the river, which has been flowing for some distance considerably below
+the level of the railroad, enters a magnificent rocky gorge; and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>
+other, about the same distance east of Clark's Fork, where it flows,
+without a ripple, through a forest of stately pines, whose forms are,
+with singular fidelity, reflected in its clear and tranquil waters. Soon
+it is lost to view, but only to reappear, after a short interval, in the
+form of the lovely</p>
+
+<h3>LAKE PEND D'OREILLE.</h3>
+
+<p>One of the largest sheets of fresh water in the West, Lake Pend
+d'Oreille will certainly yield to none in the beauty and variety of its
+scenery. Fifty-five miles in extreme length, and from three to twelve
+miles in width, it has an irregular shore line of probably 250 miles,
+richly diversified with rock and foliage, and surmounted by lofty ranges
+of hills. The railroad follows the north shore of the lake for about
+twenty-five miles, passing several little settlements, among which are
+Hope, Kootenai and Sand Point. Such accommodations as have hitherto been
+available to the visitor have been provided by respectable residents of
+Sand Point; but for the season of 1886 arrangements will be made that
+will constitute Hope the more convenient halting place. That, also, will
+be the point of arrival and departure for steamers making the tour of
+the lake.</p>
+
+<p>While the view from the car windows is not to be compared with the
+scenery at the southern end of the lake, it must, nevertheless, be
+pronounced superb. In the immediate foreground, the green waters break
+soothingly upon a pebbly beach, or fall in crested waves. On the right
+and left recede into distance the deeply indented shores, here clothed
+with luxuriant forests, there bare and precipitous. Yonder, nineteen
+miles away, is Granite Point, rising perpendicularly from the water 724
+feet, with Granite Mountain behind it, towering 5,300 feet above the
+level of the lake, itself surmounted by the snowy peaks of Pack Saddle
+Mountain, and they, in turn, by the great purple range of the C&oelig;ur
+d'Alènes.</p>
+
+<p>Not a few Eastern travelers passing over the Northern Pacific Railroad
+have remarked upon the resemblance borne by the scenery of Lake Pend
+d'Oreille to that of their own famous Lake George. It is, however, if
+possible, even finer, the mountains being loftier, and the forests more
+luxuriant, than those inclosing the hitherto unrivaled lake in Northern
+New York.</p>
+
+<p>To fully set forth the attractions of this region for the sportsman, or
+to do anything like justice to its waters as fishing grounds, would
+require more space than is devoted in this pamphlet to the entire
+country between the Great Lakes and Puget Sound. Nowhere, probably, in
+the United States, is there such an abundance of large game as in the
+forests of Northwestern Montana and Northern Idaho. Within a few miles
+of any of the stations on Lake Pend d'Oreille may be found mule deer,
+white-tailed deer, elk, caribou and moose, black and cinnamon bear, and
+mountain sheep. Of winged game, geese, ducks and partridge are
+plentiful, and they may be shot at any season of the year. Various
+applications have been made to the Northern Pacific Railroad Company, by
+local hunters, for special rates for the shipment of game East; but the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>
+Company has steadfastly refused to encourage the wholesale destruction
+of game for commercial purposes, preferring that it should be reserved
+for legitimate sport.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/img_033_h.jpg">
+     <img src="images/img_033.jpg" width="272" height="400"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+   </a>
+<p class="caption">LAKE PEND D'OREILLE, IDAHO.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The true sportsman will immensely enjoy an excursion into the Kootenai
+country. The best route is from Kootenai station to Bonner's Ferry, on
+the Kootenai river, a distance of thirty-three miles by wagon road, and
+thence by boat, either down to the lake, a further distance of ninety<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>
+miles, or up into the mountains. Complete camping outfits may be
+obtained from Spokane Falls, the nearest town on the line of the
+railroad.</p>
+
+<p>That the waters of Clark's Fork and Lake Pend d'Oreille are full of fine
+fish of many varieties, is established by overwhelming testimony. The
+want of a common nomenclature, however, is somewhat embarrassing to one
+whose opportunities for personal observation have been limited. Perhaps,
+therefore, it will be best to allow the local anglers to tell their own
+stories. Beginning with the town of Thompson's Falls, to which reference
+has already been made, we find a recent correspondent of the <i>American
+Angler</i> claiming for Clark's Fork an abundance of salmon trout, of a
+species of large lake trout, and a species of whitefish, known locally
+as &ldquo;squaw fish.&rdquo; Salmon trout are, he says, caught at all times of the
+year, except in midwinter and during high water in the month of June.
+They average from one-half to two pounds each, and the fishing is best
+during early spring and late fall. Lake trout have been caught weighing
+as much as eighteen pounds each; but the average is about six pounds.
+The &ldquo;squaw fish&rdquo; is said to be gamey, but of comparatively little value
+for the table. The same correspondent says that the mountain streams
+emptying into Clark's Fork in the vicinity of Thompson's Falls, afford
+excellent mountain trout fishing, and he quotes large scores made by
+local anglers. At Heron, which, by the way, is a divisional terminus of
+the railroad, with a first-class hotel operated in connection with the
+dining car department, trout is said to be so abundant as to be thought
+nothing of; &ldquo;grayling,&rdquo; sometimes reaching ten pounds in weight, are
+almost as plentiful; and it is said to be no uncommon thing to see them
+jumping out of the water, pursued by large whitefish. Bull <ins title="river">River</ins>, eight
+miles distant, yields salmon trout weighing up to twelve pounds. The
+waters of Lake Pend d'Oreille contain, in addition to the common lake
+trout, a species weighing from five to ten pounds each, and occasionally
+caught weighing as much as twenty pounds, speckled on both back and
+sides, and generally resembling Mackinac trout. They are a fine table
+fish, being much superior to lake trout. The &ldquo;squaw fish&rdquo; of this lake
+are said to resemble the pike. They weigh from one pound to five pounds
+each. From about the middle of August until the snow flies, the trout
+fishing is &ldquo;the best in the world.&rdquo; There is also a fish resembling the
+herring, found in one part of the lake in immense shoals.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after leaving Lake Pend d'Oreille, the line enters a dense forest
+containing few settlements, and little that is interesting or
+picturesque, beyond the beautiful Lake Cocolala, a long but narrow sheet
+of water on the north side of the track. On the borders of the forest
+the train pauses a moment at Rathdrum, the nearest point on the railroad
+to Fort C&oelig;ur d'Alène, on the lake of the same name. This lake even
+rivals, in the beauty of its waters and the grandeur of its mountain
+scenery, its more accessible neighbor, Lake Pend d'Oreille, while its
+conveniences for boating and fishing are equally good.</p>
+
+<p>At the station of Idaho Line, the train enters the Territory of
+Washington, pursuing its way in a southwesterly direction across the
+great Spokane Plain.</p>
+
+<p>A short run, and we are at Spokane Falls, a bright and busy little city,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>
+charmingly situated on the Spokane river, near the celebrated falls from
+which it takes its name. Built upon a gravelly plateau, sloping gently
+toward the river, overlooked by beautiful pine-clad hills, and with
+lofty mountain ranges in the far distance, Spokane Falls can not but
+produce a favorable impression upon the passing traveler. Its falls,
+which are its chief natural attraction, and will be the secret of the
+great commercial and manufacturing importance that undoubtedly awaits
+it, are situated on the north side of the town. The river is divided by
+basaltic islands into three great streams, curving toward each other,
+and pouring their floods into a common basin, from which the united
+waters come surging and foaming to make their final plunge of sixty-five
+feet into the deep chasm below. The tremendous force with which the
+river tears through its rocky channels, and hurls itself over the falls,
+is perhaps best illustrated by a comparison with the Falls of St.
+Anthony, at Minneapolis. While the latter represent a force of 135,000
+horse power, the former represents one of 216,000 horse power,
+utilizable with equal facility. Several extensive flouring mills, as
+well as saw mills, are already in operation; and there is no doubt that,
+with the development of the rich wheat country of Eastern Washington,
+there will come an immense extension of the manufacturing industries of
+Spokane Falls.</p>
+
+<p>It is probable that the town will soon have two important feeders in
+branch lines of railway, extending, the one northward to the Colville
+mining region,&mdash;the other southward to the Palouse wheat country. These
+lines will open railway communication with two of the richest sections
+of country west of the Rocky Mountains.</p>
+
+<p>Until within the last year or two, the settlements of the Colville
+valley have been confined to the scattered homes of ranchmen. But
+recently the tide of immigration that has been flowing into the
+Territory has reached this remote region, and agricultural operations of
+a general character are being engaged in. The valley is as fertile as it
+is beautiful, and not only fine wheat, but fruit of excellent quality,
+is being raised there.</p>
+
+<p>In the Chewelah district there have recently been found so many rich
+veins of silver that Mr. E. V. Smalley, who visited it in November,
+1885, declares that it is almost certain to become, within a few years,
+the greatest silver camp on the continent.</p>
+
+<p>Sixteen and forty-one miles respectively westward from Spokane Falls,
+are Cheney and Sprague, in a good agricultural country, whose rapid
+development is building them up as solid and substantial towns. Cheney
+has a large hotel, and is, moreover, the nearest railway station to
+Medical Lake, a large sheet of water possessing remarkable curative
+properties, and situated nine miles west. Good hotels and bathing
+establishments having been erected, Medical Lake is now an exceedingly
+pleasant resort, the surrounding country being very attractive.</p>
+
+<p>From Palouse Junction, sixty-nine miles west of Sprague, a line extends
+eastward into the Palouse country. So far as regards scenery, a ride
+over this line to Colfax and Moscow is as uninteresting a railroad<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>
+journey as could well be found, the line following a series of valleys
+that have the appearance of having once formed the rocky bed of some
+considerable stream.</p>
+
+<p>Colfax is a busy little city in the Palouse river valley, hemmed in so
+closely on both sides that one of its rivals recently suggested that it
+might find it an advantage to be roofed over. But it does a considerable
+business for so small a place, shipping a large proportion of the
+agricultural produce of the valley, estimated, in 1885, at two million
+bushels of grain. The agricultural methods of Eastern Washington will
+strike most visitors as somewhat peculiar. It is not in every State of
+the Union, nor in every Territory, that the farmer can plow and sow
+&ldquo;just when he gets ready.&rdquo; But here plowing and seeding may be seen in
+progress ten months out of every twelve, and instances have even been
+known of winter wheat being sown every month in the year, and all coming
+to harvest in its proper turn. And such crops! Thirty, forty and fifty
+bushels to the acre are raised so easily, that, had the farmer a nearer
+market, he would soon get rich. The construction of the proposed branch
+southward from Spokane Falls will, however, give him facilities for
+shipping east over the Northern Pacific Railroad that will certainly pay
+him better than exporting to England by way of Portland, as he does at
+present. The self-binding harvester, so familiar an object in many other
+parts of the country, is here unknown, the grain being cut by immense
+&ldquo;headers,&rdquo; propelled by from four to eight horses each. This
+strange-looking machine, an exemplification of the old saying, &ldquo;the cart
+before the horse,&rdquo; is better adapted than any other to the peculiar
+conditions of the country, straw being of no value, and threshing
+usually going on simultaneously with the cutting of the grain, although
+the wheat may, after cutting, lie in the fields for many weeks without
+detriment.</p>
+
+<p>The climate of Eastern Washington, to which alone this remarkable state
+of things is due, differs entirely from that of the western half of the
+Territory, from which it is divided by the Cascade range of mountains.
+It is a mistake to suppose that the humidity which characterizes that
+portion of the Territory bordering on the Pacific Ocean, distinguishes
+it as a whole. On the contrary, the eastern half is remarkably dry, and
+that, too, without those extremes of temperature that usually accompany
+a dry climate. Should there be a spell of severe cold during the brief
+winter season, it is invariably cut short by the &ldquo;Kuro-Siwo,&rdquo; or
+Japanese current, which, striking the coasts of British Columbia and
+Washington Territory, sends a warm wave over the entire Northwestern
+country, sometimes extending even to the valleys of Montana.</p>
+
+<p>Continuing westward from Palouse Junction, a run of little more than an
+hour brings us to Pasco, the eastern terminus of the Cascade division of
+the railroad. This important division, intended to establish direct
+communication between the magnificent harbors on Puget Sound and the
+Eastern States, is already operated to the extent of 122 miles, or
+ninety miles westward from Pasco, and thirty-two miles eastward from
+Tacoma. Its eastern section has given a great impetus to the development
+of the agricultural capabilities of the Yakima, Klickitat and Kittitas<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span>
+valleys, which are well adapted, not only to stock raising, but also to
+the cultivation of fruits and cereals. In this section wool growing is
+also engaged in with great success. This industry is one of considerable
+importance both in Washington and Oregon, the entire clip for 1885 being
+no less than 13,000,000 pounds.</p>
+
+<p>There are few revelations more surprising to an Eastern tourist than
+that of the magnitude of some of the great Western rivers. The Snake
+river, for example, is known to him, if at all, merely as one of the
+various tributaries of the Columbia; and, when he finds himself crossing
+its mighty flood by a bridge 1,672 feet in length, and learns that its
+force and volume are such that it drives itself like a solid wedge into
+the waters of the Columbia, he is apt to wonder that he knows so little
+about it. Future tourists will not regard this tributary stream with any
+the less interest for being told beforehand that it is longer than the
+Rhine, more than three times the length of the Hudson, and that,
+straightened out, it would reach from the Missouri valley to the
+Atlantic ocean. It is, moreover, a great commercial highway, being
+navigated by steamers of considerable tonnage for 150 miles. It flows
+for a long distance in a deep cañon, the sides of which are so
+precipitous as to render the river almost inaccessible. Immense shutes
+have therefore been constructed for the transfer of the wheat that forms
+the staple product of the country from the warehouses on the high banks
+to the boats and barges anchored below.</p>
+
+<p>Another section of the famous wheat country of Southeastern Washington,
+identified with the unmusical name of Walla Walla, borne by the oldest
+and best town east of the Cascade Mountains, is reached by a branch line
+extending from Wallula Junction. With 100,000 acres of land cultivated
+to cereals, with 800,000 apple trees, 100,000 pear, plum and peach
+trees, 25,000 grape-vines, large herds of cattle, and still larger
+flocks of sheep, the county of which Walla Walla is the judicial seat
+may be taken as fairly illustrating the varied capabilities of Eastern
+Washington. Scarcely less prosperous is the adjoining county of
+Columbia. These counties, however, being well settled, reference is made
+to them only as foreshadowing the future condition of those younger
+counties, adjacent to the Northern Pacific Railroad, which are now in
+course of settlement. In many of the latter the cultivation of the soil
+presents even fewer difficulties than in these older settled regions, in
+many parts of which there is scarcely an acre of level land to be found.</p>
+
+<p>Returning to Wallula Junction, and there resuming our westward journey,
+we at once enter a region of surpassing interest, none other than the
+famous land&mdash;</p>
+
+<p style="font-size: 90%; text-align: center; text-indent: 0em;">
+<b>&ldquo;Where rolls the Oregon.&rdquo;</b></p>
+
+<p>Its navigable waters within 450 miles of those of the Missouri river,
+the great Columbia drains an area almost equal in extent to the united
+area of France and Germany. Excluding the portages at the Cascades and
+Dalles, with several less important rapids, the river is navigable to
+Kettle Falls, 725 miles from its mouth. These falls, on the upper river,
+are not accessible by rail, being a considerable distance above the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>
+point at which the railroad enters its valley. They are said to be more
+impressive even than the famous Cascades on the lower river, there being
+a perpendicular fall of twenty feet, and then swift rapids between rocky
+banks of quartz and porphyry. It is on the upper river, also, that there
+occur the Little Dalles, where the waters tear through a contracted
+channel with terrific force, constituting, at least at high water, an
+impassable barrier to navigation.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/img_038_h.jpg">
+     <img src="images/img_038.jpg" width="400" height="283"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+   </a>
+<p class="caption">MOUNT HOOD&mdash;FROM THE HEAD OF THE DALLES, COLUMBIA RIVER, OREGON.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>From Wallula to within a few miles of Portland, a twelve hours' ride,
+the tourist enjoys an uninterrupted succession of views of that superb
+scenery which has given the Columbia river its world-wide reputation.
+Never for more than a few moments does he lose sight of its mighty
+flood,&mdash;now flowing onward with all the majesty of the lower
+Mississippi, and now surging through the rocky barriers that impede its
+course; here confined within lofty basaltic walls, there inclosing
+numerous beautifully wooded islands; and here again marked by long
+stretches of bare white sand driven continually by the unceasing winds.
+For some miles west of Wallula the banks of the river are low, and
+possess no special object of interest. It is not, indeed, until he
+reaches the Great Dalles that the tourist sees any indication of the
+magnificent scenery he is approaching. There, however, he has his first<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>
+glimpse of the queenly Mount Hood, whose snowy peak, soaring 11,225 feet
+above the sea, stands out sharply against the sky at a distance of
+thirty-five miles. The Dalles themselves, scarcely noticeable, except
+when the river is at flood, constitute one of the most curious and
+interesting sights in the world,&mdash;nothing less than that of the mighty
+Columbia turned on edge. Here, within a gorge so narrow that a child may
+fling a pebble from bank to bank, is confined the greatest river of the
+Northwest. The chasm through which it flows has never been fathomed, and
+can only be approximately determined by an inversion of the grand
+proportions of the river where it flows through its ordinary channel.</p>
+
+<p>At Dalles City, the eastern terminus of navigation on the middle river,
+the tourist finds himself in an attractive town of nearly forty years'
+growth. Here he may with advantage make a brief stay, resuming his
+journey either by train or by steamer, the fine boats of the Oregon
+Railway&nbsp;&amp; &nbsp;Navigation Company plying daily between this city and
+Portland. From the heights commanding the town, magnificent views are to
+be obtained, Mount Hood looming up in the southwest, and Mount Adams,
+another of the great peaks of the Cascade Range, in the north.</p>
+
+<p>We have now left behind the low-lying shores that extend for so many
+miles between the Dalles and Wallula. Henceforward the scenery increases
+in interest every mile, the mountains becoming loftier and more
+precipitous, the rocky shores more rugged, and the intervening foliage
+more luxuriant.</p>
+
+<p>It should be stated that the scenery, especially on the south side of
+the river, appears to much greater advantage when viewed from the deck
+of a steamer than when seen from the train. In consideration of this
+fact, railway tickets are available by steamer without extra charge. The
+boat leaving the Dalles early in the morning, there is a loss of one day
+involved in taking the steamer on the westward journey; but, returning
+from Portland, the tourist is able to reach the Dalles in time for that
+day's east-bound train.</p>
+
+<p>Forty-three miles from the Dalles are the Cascades, where the river
+changes from a placid lake to swift rapids and a foaming torrent. Before
+the completion of the railroad every pound of freight had to be
+transferred, at this point, from a steamer navigating the river above
+this insurmountable barrier to one navigating it below, or <ins title="vice versâ"><i>vice versa</i></ins>.
+The railway portage of six miles on the Washington side of the river is
+still operated, and the transfer of such passengers as choose to
+complete their journey by water is made so speedily and conveniently as
+to enhance, rather than otherwise, the pleasure and interest of the
+river trip.</p>
+
+<p>In view of the importance of the river as a free commercial highway,
+Congress has made several appropriations for the construction, at the
+Cascades, of a system of locks. It is certainly a gigantic undertaking,
+and many years will probably elapse before its completion.</p>
+
+<p>To a great convulsion of nature, of whose occurrence there is abundant
+evidence, may be traced a singular Indian tradition, that Mount Hood and
+Mount Adams formerly stood close to the river, connected by a natural
+bridge. The mountains, so goes the story, becoming angry with each<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>
+other, threw out fire, ashes and stones, and so demolished the bridge,
+choking the river, which had previously been navigable. The present
+remoteness of the mountains is attributed to the anger of the Great
+Spirit, who hurled them thus far asunder. Both, in common with other
+peaks of the Cascade Range, are extinct volcanoes; and the Indian
+tradition may have its origin either in some great eruption, or in some
+sudden movement of what is known as the sliding mountain, an immense
+mass of basaltic rock gradually wearing its way toward the river.</p>
+
+<p>After gazing in admiration at the fine scenery surrounding the Cascades,
+the tourist will scarcely be prepared for the announcement that the
+grandest of all is yet to come. But, after leaving Bonneville, not only
+is the general effect grander and more imposing, but the objects of
+special interest are more numerous. Here it is that the advantage of
+making the trip by steamer is most apparent; for, let the train travel
+ever so slowly, it is impossible for even the most quick-sighted
+traveler to take in all the points of interest that crowd one upon
+another.</p>
+
+<p>On the north side is Castle Rock, rising abruptly from the water's edge
+a thousand feet or more. Farther down the river, also on the north side,
+is Cape Horn, an imposing basaltic cliff projecting into the water. On
+the south side there descend from the lofty perpendicular walls that
+frown upon the river for many miles, numerous waterfalls, of
+indescribable beauty. Here is the lovely Oneonta, 600 feet of silver
+ribbon, floating from the dizzy height. A few moments more, and we are
+opposite the still more beautiful Multnomah Fall, which has a descent of
+no less than 820 feet. At this point the train stops fifteen minutes to
+enable passengers to ascend to the rustic bridge, there to enjoy the
+best possible view of this incomparable fall, and its wondrously
+beautiful setting, contrasting so strikingly with the wild scenery
+around it.</p>
+
+<p>At the Pillars of Hercules, two gigantic columns of rock, one on either
+side the track, and forming, as it were, the western gateway to this
+marvelous region, the railroad leaves the river, and runs right on to
+Portland. The steamer continues its course, past the beautiful city of
+Vancouver, to the mouth of the Willamette river, by which great
+tributary of the Columbia, it soon reaches</p>
+
+<h3>PORTLAND.</h3>
+
+<p>Its phenomenal growth, its commanding position on one of the great
+waterways of the continent, its wealth, commerce and enterprise, and the
+singular natural beauty of its situation, render the capital of the
+Pacific Northwest one of the most attractive cities on the American
+continent.</p>
+
+<p>Fifteen years ago Portland contained a population of 1,103. By 1880 the
+construction of the western section of the Northern Pacific Railroad,
+and the approaching completion of the great transcontinental system, had
+so stimulated the growth of the city that its population had increased
+to 17,577. To-day it is estimated at 30,000, or, including the suburbs
+of East Portland and Albina, at 40,000, and a handsomer city of its size
+can not be found in the United States.</p>
+
+<p>In everything that distinguishes a great metropolitan city, the progress
+of Portland has been even more remarkable than the rapid growth of its<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>
+population. The handsome business blocks that line its principal streets
+bear witness to the magnitude of its trade and commerce, while its
+churches, schools and other public buildings testify to the high moral
+tone and refined taste of its citizens.</p>
+
+<p>Although one hundred miles from the coast, Portland, like London,
+Rotterdam and Antwerp, is virtually a seaport, and its growth and
+progress are based upon the solid foundations of its natural advantages.
+Loading at its wharves, or riding at anchor on the broad bosom of the
+river, may be seen, not only river craft of all sorts and sizes, but
+ocean-going vessels of 3,000 tons. When the great wheat crop of Oregon
+is in course of shipment to Europe, there may be seen a fleet of as fine
+merchantmen as can be found in the world. The salmon exports alone, for
+the year ending August 1, 1885, required 120 large vessels, having a
+total capacity of about as many thousand tons. The total value of the
+exports to foreign countries for the year just mentioned, was
+$5,857,057, and that of domestic exports $6,699,776, making a grand
+total of $12,556,833. In addition to several hundred thousand tons of
+wheat, and the 120 ship loads of salmon already mentioned, the exports
+from the Columbia river included over eleven million pounds of wool,
+over two million pounds of hides, nearly five and one-half million
+pounds of hops, and twenty-nine million pounds of potatoes.</p>
+
+<p>Portland is said to number among its merchant princes twenty-one
+millionaires, and certainly there are few cities whose private
+residences are more strikingly indicative of wealth and refinement. The
+picturesque surroundings of the city render it an exceedingly desirable
+place of residence. From the summit of Robinson's Hill a view that it is
+no extravagance to pronounce one of the finest in the world may be
+obtained. At one's feet lies the city, nestled in rich foliage.
+Stretching away, for many miles, from where their waters unite in one
+common flood, may be seen the Columbia and Willamette rivers. But above
+all, bounded only by the limits of the horizon, is the great Cascade
+Range, with all its glittering peaks. On the extreme right,
+seventy-eight miles distant, as the crow flies, is seen the snowy crown
+of Mount Jefferson; across the river, fifty-one miles distant, rises
+Mount Hood, one of the most beautiful mountains on the coast, and the
+pride and glory of Oregon; to the northeast stand out the crests of
+Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens, and in the same direction, but one
+hundred miles away, may be descried the great Tacoma, the grandest
+mountain on the Pacific slope. All these five peaks are radiant with
+eternal snow, and it may well be imagined that the effect of the
+uplifting of their giant forms against the clear blue sky is grand in
+the extreme.</p>
+
+<p>Tourists coming northward from San Francisco have the choice of two
+routes and two modes of travel. They may either take one of the fine
+steamers of the Oregon Railway and Navigation Company, sailing every
+five days, and performing the voyage in from sixty to seventy-two hours,
+or they may travel overland by the Oregon&nbsp;&amp;&nbsp;California Railroad, a line
+that traverses not only the most fruitful plains, but also the most
+beautiful valleys, of this rich State.</p>
+
+<p>For the benefit of such travelers, and also in view of the possibility<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>
+of there being those who, both coming and returning by the Northern
+Pacific Railroad, would like to visit the garden of Oregon, and, if
+possible, obtain a glimpse of Mount Shasta, it may not be out of place
+to give a brief description of the line extending southward from
+Portland to the southern boundary of the State.</p>
+
+<p>For upward of one hundred miles our route lies along the Willamette
+valley. This is the largest valley in the State, being 150 miles in
+length, with an average width of fifty miles. Inclosed on the east side
+by the Cascade Mountains, and on the west by the Coast Range, it
+contains an area of about four and one-half million acres of rich and
+beautiful land. Some of the pleasantest towns in the Northwest are to be
+found in this valley.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/img_042_h.jpg">
+     <img src="images/img_042.jpg" width="400" height="278"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+   </a>
+<p class="caption">FLOATING FISH WHEEL, ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER, OREGON.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>First comes Oregon City, sixteen miles from Portland; this is the oldest
+town in Oregon. It is situated just below the beautiful falls of the
+Willamette, amid highly picturesque scenery. Its chief interest for the
+tourist centres in the falls, which represent a force of over a million
+horse power, or about eight times that of the Falls of St. Anthony. They
+may be seen a few hundred yards south of the station, on the west side
+of the track. Hitherto there has been seen no considerable extent of
+fertile country; but in Barlow's prairie there appears a fine tract of
+agricultural land inclosed by tributaries of the Willamette. Others
+succeed it, and soon good homesteads, surrounded by shade trees and
+orchards, are seen in every direction. The next town of importance is
+Salem, the State capital, beautifully situated on the sloping banks of
+the river. The capitol, and other State buildings, may be seen from the
+train; and the entire city, with its broad streets and fine oak groves,
+presents a pleasing appearance.</p>
+
+<p>The twenty-eight miles intervening between Salem and Albany afford some
+fine views of the Cascade Range, Mount Hood being visible at a distance
+of seventy miles, and the nearer southern peaks in still bolder<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span>
+outline. Eugene City, 123 miles from Portland, is also charmingly
+situated and finely laid out on the edge of a broad, rich prairie
+overlooked by a ridge of low hills. Its geographical position, at the
+head of navigation, commands for it the trade of a large section of
+country. It is also the seat of the State University, and is otherwise
+an educational centre of great importance.</p>
+
+<p>In the course of the next seventy-four miles the railroad ascends about
+2,000 feet to Roseburg, the judicial seat of Douglas county, traversed
+by another of the famous valleys of Oregon, that of the Umpqua. This was
+formerly a great stock country; but its pastures have gradually
+disappeared before the plow, and cattle have given way to grain. It is,
+moreover, a fine fruit growing region. The tourist is now approaching
+those intricate valleys which have made this line of railway from
+Roseburg to its terminus at Ashland at once so costly and so
+picturesque.</p>
+
+<p>Cow Creek Cañon, so winding that thirty-five miles of track had to be
+laid to attain twelve miles of actual distance, abounds with wild and
+beautiful scenery. From the valley of the Umpqua, the railroad passes
+into that of the Rogue river, in Josephine county. This county is
+equally famed for its natural beauty, its healthful climate and the
+wonderful productiveness of its soil. Grains, fruits and vegetables of
+every description, yield prodigiously, and their quality is not to be
+surpassed.</p>
+
+<p>The great attractions of the county for the tourist are the two
+limestone caves situated thirty miles south of Grant's Pass, and fifteen
+miles east of Kerbyville. There is said to be a good wagon road from the
+latter place to within five miles of these caves, and arrangements are
+in progress for the early completion of the road. According to an
+official publication of the county, there is another route, <i>viâ</i>
+Williams Creek, by wagon road, to within eight miles of the caves, and
+thence, by a mountain trail, on horseback. The scenery along this route
+is stated to be grand beyond description, embracing many of the lovely
+valleys of this charming county, and, in the distance, the snow-capped
+mountains of the Cascade Range, terminating in the tremendous peak of
+Mount Shasta. The caves themselves consist each of a series of chambers,
+adorned with beautiful stalactites of prismatic colors, and other
+curious and delicate formations, presenting exquisite patterns, and
+sparkling with the lustre of diamonds.</p>
+
+<p>At Ashland, 341 miles from Portland, the tourist arrives at the southern
+terminus of the road. Connection is made with the California and Oregon
+Railroad, at Delta, California, by stage. This is an exceedingly
+enjoyable stage ride, the first twenty miles of the journey being over
+the Siskiyou Mountains, from whose summits the long Sierra Nevada and
+Cascade Range can be traced for nearly 200 miles.</p>
+
+<p>No tourist should return East without first taking a trip down the</p>
+
+<h3>LOWER COLUMBIA</h3>
+
+<p style="text-indent: 0;">to Astoria, that city of most interesting historical associations, and
+no little actual importance in these stirring days of trade and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span>
+manufactures. Admirably appointed steamers, making fast time, run daily
+between Portland and Astoria. The trip need not, therefore, occupy more
+than two days. The distance from Portland to the point at which the
+Willamette discharges itself into the Columbia, is twelve miles, in the
+course of which opportunity is afforded for observing the progress being
+made by the city in its manufacturing and other enterprises. The busy
+wharves are also passed, and the stately ships riding at anchor.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/img_044_h.jpg">
+     <img src="images/img_044.jpg" width="300" height="213"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+   </a>
+<p class="caption">MOUNT TACOMA.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>After the first few miles of the Columbia the tourist may be surprised
+to find that the scenery of the lower river is far from being tame or
+monotonous. The river itself winds considerably for so great a body of
+water; the forest, too, is luxuriant, and the hillsides are covered with
+heavy fir; numerous islands occur at intervals, wooded and exceedingly
+pretty. Where the river has worked its way through the Coast Mountains,
+the scenery, though not so abrupt, stern or impressive as that of the
+middle Columbia, presents many fine effects, the lofty walls of the
+river being surmounted by hills of considerable altitude.</p>
+
+<p>Not far from Columbia City, on the north or Washington bank of the
+stream, is an island rock known as Mount Coffin, and formerly an Indian
+place of sepulture. Here the tribes deposited the bodies of their noted
+chiefs and warriors. In his canoe, previously rendered useless, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span>
+with his bow and arrows, the dead hero was here laid to rest.</p>
+
+<p>After passing Kalama, the tourist comes upon some of the great canning
+establishments, which before long are passed at such short intervals
+that they seem to line the north bank, on which most of them are
+situated.</p>
+
+<p>The fisheries of the Columbia river are almost as famous as its scenery.
+The canning industry, which was first established in 1866, has within
+the last few years attained great importance. Producing the first year
+some 4,000 cases, representing, at the high price they commanded, $16
+per case, a total value of $64,000, it has steadily increased its
+product, until now it has reached upward of half a million cases. The
+catch of 1885, which was 524,530 cases, fell short of that of 1884 by
+132,000 cases, in consequence of the markets of the world being
+temporarily overstocked. It is remarkable that the supply should at all
+exceed the demand, when the gigantic extent of the industry is taken
+into consideration. The great perfection to which the methods employed
+in capturing the salmon have been brought, is probably accountable for
+the recent glut in the market. Among the most effective contrivances for
+the purpose, is the floating fish-wheel, by means of which the fish are
+literally scooped up out of the water in shoals. The industry gives
+employment to 1,500 boats, 3,000 fishermen, and 1,000 factory hands, the
+latter principally Chinese. The canning season is from April 1st to July
+31st, when the lower Columbia is alive with fishing boats, and the
+canneries are in full operation.</p>
+
+<p>As we approach Astoria, the river widens out into a broad estuary, some
+seven miles across. Here is Tongue Point, a bold headland running out
+into the river from the Oregon shore.</p>
+
+<p>In a beautiful bay between this point and Point Adams, is Astoria, built
+partly on piles, and partly on the shelving hills. For the story of its
+early history, of the arrival of John Jacob Astor's trading ship,
+&ldquo;Tonquin,&rdquo; and of its subsequent British occupancy, the reader is
+referred to Washington Irving's delightful volume. It is sufficient to
+say that it is to-day an exceedingly interesting city to visit, not more
+on account of its being the oldest British settlement in the Northwest,
+and the central figure in the salmon fishing of the Columbia river, than
+for the novelty of its construction.</p>
+
+<p>Its busy wharves and abundant shipping proclaim it a seaport of
+considerable importance, requiring only a railroad or the removal of the
+barriers to the navigation of the middle Columbia, to make it a great
+city.</p>
+
+<p>Opposite Point Adams is Cape Hancock, formerly known as Cape
+Disappointment. On the sea-coast, both on the Washington side, north of
+Cape Hancock, and on the Oregon side, south of Point Adams, are various
+summer resorts attracting crowds of visitors during the season. On the
+Washington shore is Ilwaco, beautifully situated on the north shore of
+Baker's Bay, with a long, crescent-shaped beach of fine, white sand
+sloping to the water, and heavily wooded hills in the rear. This growing
+place, with its hotels, stores, church and school house, is rapidly
+growing in popularity. Steamers meet the Portland boat at Astoria,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>
+where passengers are transferred without inconvenience or delay. They
+call, both going and returning, at Cape Hancock, affording tourists an
+opportunity of visiting Fort Canby, and the great <ins title="light-house">lighthouse</ins>, from which
+there is one of the most extensive and magnificent views on the entire
+Pacific coast. On the Oregon shore of the ocean are Clatsop Beach, where
+there are good hotel accommodations and excellent hunting and fishing,
+and a popular resort known as Seaside, boasting a multitude of
+attractions, including a fine ocean beach and a trout creek. Should the
+tourist be unable to make a long stay at any of these places, he ought
+at least to pay them a brief visit, if only to cross the great bar of
+the river, and to see where its mighty flood discharges itself into the
+ocean at the rate of 1,000,000 gallons per second.</p>
+
+<p>The climate of this section is exceedingly humid; but its summers are
+delightful. Its rainfall is mostly in winter, when it is both heavy and
+continuous. It is said, that, if a barrel, with the two ends taken out,
+be placed upon its side with the bung-hole uppermost, the rain will
+enter by that small aperture faster than it can run out at the two ends.
+For this story, however, the writer can not vouch, any more than for
+that of the recent visitor to the National Park, who is said to have
+caught, in one of the lakes of that remarkable region, a fish so large
+that, upon his dragging it ashore, the water of the lake fell six
+inches.</p>
+
+<h3>TO PUGET SOUND.</h3>
+
+<p>The tourist has now become more or less familiar with the natural
+features and resources of that great country lying between the Snake
+river and the Pacific Ocean, and between the Columbia river and the
+Siskiyou Mountains.</p>
+
+<p>There remains only Western Washington, with its extensive forests, its
+rich coal mines, its hop gardens, and its far-famed inland sea, on which
+he is to embark on his voyage to the great land of the far North. The
+Pacific division of the Northern Pacific Railroad follows the Willamette
+river from Portland to its confluence with the Columbia, and the latter
+river from that point to Kalama, where trains are conveyed across the
+river by the finest transfer boat in the world, built expressly for the
+railroad company, and constructed to carry thirty cars at one time. From
+Kalama the track strikes almost directly northward for Puget Sound,
+passing through long stretches of dense forest, but also intersecting a
+tract of country containing a larger area of fertile agricultural land
+than is contained in any other county in Western Washington.</p>
+
+<p>The chief towns of this region are Chehalis and Centralia, and they give
+evidence of thrift and prosperity. But the attention of the tourist as
+he travels onward is largely occupied with the magnificent peaks of the
+Cascade Range, whose forms of dazzling whiteness constitute, with their
+background of deepest blue and the dark forests which clothe their base,
+a picture of marvelous beauty. For more than one hundred miles after we
+leave Portland, there looms up behind us the graceful contour of Mount
+Hood, while to the east are seen at intervals the majestic forms of
+Mount St. Helens and Mount Adams.</p>
+
+<p>But the grandest scene of all is yet to come. After leaving Tenino,
+there is a revelation of almost unequaled grandeur in the view of Mount<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span>
+Tacoma, the loftiest peak of the entire range. If Mount Hood can claim
+to be considered, as is generally admitted, the most graceful and
+beautiful mountain on the Pacific coast, Mount Tacoma can certainly
+claim to be the most majestic and sublime. Towering 14,444 feet above
+sea-level, and thus exceeding by more than 3,000 feet the height of any
+other mountain in Washington or Oregon, it seems to rear its massive
+head close to the very battlements of heaven. No other mountain, even in
+the Yellowstone National Park or in the main range of the Rockies, will
+have produced so great an impression upon the traveler as will the
+mighty Tacoma. As he gazes at its majestic form, he is inclined to doubt
+whether there is in the whole world one that could establish a better
+claim to universal sovereignty. In lines that will live as long as the
+English language itself, Byron declared Mont Blanc the monarch of
+mountains. But Byron never saw the matchless Tacoma. It, too, has its
+throne of rocks, its diadem of snow, and, though less frequently than
+Mont Blanc, its robe of clouds, an adjunct of doubtful advantage except
+in the exigencies of versification.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/img_047_h.jpg">
+     <img src="images/img_047.jpg" width="400" height="248"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+   </a>
+<p class="caption">&ldquo;THE TACOMA&rdquo; TACOMA. W. T.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Mount Tacoma has, embedded in its mighty bosom, no fewer than fifteen
+glaciers, three of which have been rendered accessible to visitors.
+Comparing them with the glaciers of the Alps, Senator Edmunds, of
+Vermont, declares that the finest effects he witnessed during the course
+of a long tour in Switzerland, fell far short of what he saw on his
+visit to Mount Tacoma. At the great hotel, at Tacoma City, guides and
+camping outfits are always obtainable. Excursion parties are frequently<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span>
+made up during the summer season, the trip being entirely free from
+difficulty or danger, even to ladies.</p>
+
+<p>It is at the city of Tacoma that the tourist first looks over the blue
+waters of Puget Sound. This is the western terminus of the Northern
+Pacific Railroad. Occupying a commanding position upon a high plateau
+overlooking Admiralty Inlet, Tacoma has an excellent harbor, capable of
+receiving the largest ocean-going vessels. It has also some fine public
+buildings, among them being the Anna Wright Seminary for girls, a
+monument of the beneficence of Mr. C. B. Wright, of Philadelphia. Its
+luxuriously furnished hotel, the Tacoma, erected at a cost of $200,000,
+occupies one of the finest sites in the world, overlooking, as it does,
+the picturesque shores of the bay, and commanding a magnificent view of
+the imperial mountain.</p>
+
+<p>A few miles northward is Seattle, also with an excellent harbor, and the
+promise of becoming a city of great importance, an extensive section of
+rich country being naturally tributary to it.</p>
+
+<p>There is no more delightful climate than that of Puget Sound. The
+summers are cool, the maximum temperature at Tacoma in the summer of
+1884 being eighty-nine degrees, and in that of 1885, eighty-five degrees
+only.</p>
+
+<p>The Cascade division of the railroad, extending eastward from Tacoma, is
+developing a very rich bituminous coal country, and great quantities of
+the mineral are being shipped from Tacoma, where immense bunkers have
+been erected to facilitate its exportation. This line also reaches the
+fine hop growing country of the Puyallup valley, whose product has
+steadily risen in Eastern markets, until now it commands as high a price
+as that of the State of New York.</p>
+
+<p>But never was the tourist less disposed than now to concern himself with
+agricultural or commercial statistics. With eager expectation, impatient
+of delay, he is hastening toward that veritable Wonderland of the World
+that constitutes the Mecca of his pilgrimage. He is about to enter upon
+the final stage of his long journey, in that far-famed Inland Passage,
+whose incomparable scenery, extending in one unbroken chain for more
+than a thousand miles, alone surpasses those stupendous works of Nature
+upon which he has so recently gazed.</p>
+
+<p style="text-align: right; margin-right: 5%;"><span class="smcap">John Hyde.</span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 448px;">
+     <img src="images/img_048_h.jpg" width="448" height="166"
+        alt="Tailpiece"
+        title="Tailpiece" />
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 640px;">
+     <img src="images/img_049a_h.jpg" width="640" height="147"
+        alt="Headpiece"
+        title="Headpiece" />
+</div>
+
+<h2><span class="smcap">Alaska and the Inland Passage.</span></h2>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 160px;">
+<img src="images/img_049b.jpg" width="160" height="268" alt="M" title="M" />
+</div><p class="dropcap">an travels for business and pleasure. The former can be easily
+described, by a slight interpolation in a well-known mathematical
+definition, as &ldquo;the shortest distance and quickest time between two
+points.&rdquo; The latter bears to this mathematical rectilinear exactness the
+relation of the curves,&mdash;Hogarth's &ldquo;line of beauty,&rdquo; the rotund circle
+and graceful sweep of the Archimedean spiral, and bends of beauty beyond
+computation; and, as any of these are more pleasing to the eye than the
+stiff straight line, so any tourist's jaunt is more pleasing to all the
+senses than the business man's travels. But, as all straight lines are
+alike, and all curves are different, so are their equivalents in travel,
+to which we have alluded. One tourist, as a Nimrod, dons his hunting
+shirt and high-topped boots, and, seeking the solemn recesses of the
+Rockies, slays the grizzly and mountain lion, and thus has his &ldquo;good
+time;&rdquo; another drives through the grand old gorges of the Yellowstone
+Park, and the deep impressions left by a lofty nature are his ample
+rewards; and yet again, where physical exertion is to be avoided by
+delicate ones or those averse to its peculiarities, one may float down
+the distant Columbia, with its colossal contours, and, without even
+lifting a finger to aid one's progress, view as vast and stupendous
+scenery as the world can produce. Thus each place suits each varying
+disposition, from the most roystering &ldquo;roughing it,&rdquo; developing the
+muscles in mighty knots, to where the most ponderous panorama of nature
+may be enjoyed from a moving mansion, as it were. Could we conceive a
+place where all these advantages would be united into one, or where one
+after the other might be indulged at pleasure, we would certainly have a
+tourists' paradise, an ever-to-be-sought and never-to-be-forgotten nook
+of creation. Such a tour is to be encountered on &ldquo;the inland passage to
+Alaska,&rdquo; as it is called by those knowing it best.</p>
+
+<p>In this rough, rocky region, Nature has been prodigal of both land and
+water,&mdash;making the former high and picturesque, and the latter deep and
+navigable, and running in all directions through the other, apparently
+for the purpose that it might be easily viewed. From the northwest<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span>
+corner of Washington Territory, through all of the coast line of British
+Columbia, and along Alaska's shores to the long-cast shadows of Mount
+St. Elias, stretches for nearly two thousand miles a picturesque
+panorama that seems as if the Yellowstone, the Yosemite, Colorado, and
+Switzerland and the Alps, were passing in review before the spectator;
+and, when the greatest northing is gained, Greenland and Norway have
+added their glacier-crowned and iceberg-bearing vistas to the view. It
+looks as if the Yellowstone National Park had sunk into the sea until
+the valleys were waterways, and the feet of the high mountains had been
+converted into shores. A grand salt-water river it is that stretches
+from Puget Sound, itself a beautiful sheet of water, to our distant
+colony of Alaska, a good round thousand miles, and whose waters are as
+quiet as an Alpine lake, even though a fierce gale rage on the broad
+Pacific outside.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond the parallel of Sitka, though the grand scenery may be no more
+imposing than that through which the tourist will have passed in coming
+from Washington Territory, he will find some of the curiosities of
+nature which are to be found only in the dreaded frigid zones,&mdash;icebergs
+and glaciers. Before the waters of Northwestern Washington Territory are
+out of sight, great patches of snow are to be seen on the highest of the
+grand mountains bordering the inland passage. These little white
+blotches in the northern gullies become larger and larger as the
+excursion steamer wends her way northward, until the loftiest peaks are
+crowned with snow. Then, across connecting ridges, they join their white
+mantles; and, in a few more miles, the blue ice of glaciers peeps from
+out the lower edges of the deep snow. Lower and lower they descend as
+the steamer crawls northward, until the upper parts of the passage are
+essayed, when they have come to the ocean's level, and, plunging into
+the sea, snap off at intervals, and float away as icebergs, some of them
+higher than the masts of the large, commodious steamers that bear
+tourists to this fairy-land of the frigid zones, if one can be allowed
+such an expression. Glacier Bay, which the excursion steamers visit on
+their summer trips, has a great number of these frozen rivers of ice
+debouching into it; and its clear, quiet waters, reflecting the Alpine
+scenery of its shores, are ruffled only by the breaking of the icebergs
+from the terminal fronts of the glacier, that send waves across its
+whole breadth, and with a noise like the firing of a sea-coast cannon.
+Muir Glacier is the greatest of this grand group, and surpasses anything
+nearer than the polar zones themselves. There is no use in going into
+mathematical measurements,&mdash;its two and three hundred feet in height and
+its breadth of several miles; for they but feebly represent its
+grandeur, the deep impressions that figures can not measure when viewing
+this frozen Niagara of the North. Not until the blue Adriatic has
+pierced its way into the heart of the high Alps, or some ocean inlet has
+invaded the valleys of the vast Yellowstone Park, will we ever have an
+equivalent to this display of Nature's noblest efforts in scenic
+effects. Were the other scenery as monotonous as the ceaseless plains, a
+visit to the Alaskan glaciers and icebergs would well repay any one's
+time and effort; but, when the tourist travels through the greatest<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span>
+Wonderland of the wide West to reach these curious sights, he or she
+will be paid over and over tenfold.</p>
+
+<p>So far everything may be seen from the decks of an elegant steamer; but,
+should the tourist want a little &ldquo;roughing it,&rdquo; let him stop over in
+Glacier Bay, from one steamer's visit to another, two weeks to a month
+apart, and clamber over the glaciers and row around among the icebergs
+to his heart's content, and until he almost imagines he is an arctic
+explorer. He will descend from the tumbled surface of the frozen seas of
+ice on the glacier's surface, only to wade through grass up to his
+waist, that waves in the light winds like the pretty pampas fields of
+South America. In these fields of grasses he may pitch his tent, which,
+with a cook stove and a month's rations for each person, is all that is
+needed, beyond the baggage of the other tourists. Hunting is found in
+the mountains back of the bay, fish in the waters, and small game in the
+woods near by.</p>
+
+<p>Or, if longer and rougher jaunts are wanted, ascend the Lynn Channel,
+and then the Chilkat, or Chilkoot, Inlet, hiring two or three Indians to
+carry one's camping effects on their backs to the lakes at the source of
+the great Yukon river of the British Northwest Territory and
+Alaska,&mdash;the third river of America. Going by the Chilkoot trail, over
+the Alaskan coast range of mountains, which will furnish Alpine climbing
+enough to suit the most eager, on snow and glacier ice, one comes to a
+series of lakes aggregating 150 miles in extent; and along these he may
+paddle and return, shooting an occasional brown or black bear, moose,
+caribou or mountain goat, while aquatic life is everywhere on these
+pretty Alpine lakes.</p>
+
+<p>Throughout the whole inland passage, one is passing now and then some
+Indian village, of more or less imposing appearance and numbers. In
+Alaska they all belong to a single great tribe, the T'linkit, bound
+together by a common language, but by no stronger ties, for each
+village, or cluster of villages, makes a sub-tribe, having no sympathies
+with the other, and they often war against one another.</p>
+
+<p>It is not often that one would want to call a tourist's attention to an
+Indian village, for the average encampment or habitation of the &ldquo;noble
+red man&rdquo; is not the most attractive sight or study; but, in the T'linkit
+towns, we have no such hesitation, for, in the curiosities to be seen in
+their houses and surroundings, they are certainly one of the strangest
+people on earth. They are the artistic savages of the world. In front of
+each log house, and often rearing its head much higher than it by two or
+three fold, are one or two posts, called &ldquo;totem poles,&rdquo; which are merely
+logs on end; but, on the seaward face, the savage sculptor has exhausted
+all the resources of his barbaric imagination in cutting in hideous
+faces and figures, that, with a hundred or so such terrible &ldquo;totems&rdquo; in
+front of a village, makes one think of some nightmare of his childish
+days. The houses, too, are carved inside and out. Every utensil they
+have is sculptured deep with diabolical but well executed designs, and
+their spoons of mountain sheep and goat horn are marvels of savage work.
+All these are for sale to tourists, and every excursion steamer brings<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>
+numbers of these romantic remembrances of a yet more romantic journey
+back to civilization.</p>
+
+<p>But the inland passage to Alaska is not the only grand and picturesque
+part of that great territory visited by the excursion steamers; for
+beyond and as far as Mount St. Elias, they often sail to this the
+greatest cluster of high mountains on the Western Continent,&mdash;Lituya
+Peak, 10,000 feet high; and Fairweather and Crillon, a third taller;
+then beyond, Cook and Vancouver cluster near sublime St. Elias, nearly
+20,000 feet above the ocean that thunders at its base, and whose jagged
+top may be seen a hundred and fifty miles to sea. How disappointing are
+the Colorado peaks of 12,000 and 14,000 feet to one, for the simple
+reason that they spring from a plain already 6,000 to 8,000 feet above
+sea-level, and seem, as they are, but high hills on a high plateau. How
+like pygmies they appear to Hood, Tacoma, Shasta, and others not so high
+above the ocean base line, but whose nearly every foot above sea-level
+is in mountain slope. How grand, then, must be hoary-headed St. Elias,
+whose waist is the waters of the wide sea, and whose 20,000 feet above
+sea-level springs from the Pacific Ocean, from whose calm waters we view
+its majestic height.</p>
+
+<p>But let us commence at the starting point of our journey, and take our
+readers step by step over the whole route.</p>
+
+<p>For many years the people of our great Northwest country, Oregon,
+Washington and Idaho Territories, have spoken familiarly of &ldquo;the Sound&rdquo;
+as one of their great geographical features,&mdash;in much the same way as
+the people of Southern Connecticut or Long Island speak of &ldquo;the
+Sound,&rdquo;&mdash;referring thereby to Puget Sound, that cuts deep into the
+northwestern corner of Washington Territory. Many have visited it, and
+sailed on its beautiful waters; beautiful enough in themselves or their
+own immediate surroundings, but thrice grand and gorgeous in their
+silver framing of snow-clad peaks and mountain ranges, surrounding them
+on all sides. The long, narrow, picturesque sound, that looked not
+unlike a Greenland fjord, or close-walled bay at the mouth of some grand
+river,&mdash;one of those bays so slowly converging that a person can hardly
+define where it ceases and the river commences,&mdash;was considered one of
+the most beautiful and scenic places of the Northwest; and its people
+delighted to show it to strangers, with its enhancing surroundings,
+reaching from the prettily situated capital of the Territory, Olympia,
+at the head of &ldquo;the sound,&rdquo; to where the broad Juan de Fuca Strait leads
+to the great Pacific Sea. Then Alaska was known only as Russian America,
+when it was spoken of at all, so seldom was it heard, and seemed to be
+as far away from the United States on that side of the continent, and as
+little thought of, as Greenland or Iceland is to-day with our people of
+the Atlantic coast. An occasional Hudson's Bay Company trading boat
+steamed out of Victoria harbor, and disappeared northward, crawling
+through a maze of intricate inland channels and Alpine-like waterways to
+some distant and seemingly half-mythical trading post of that lonesome
+land; but, as to anything definite as to where she was going, as little
+was known by the people as if an arctic expedition was leaving the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>
+harbor of New York or Boston, and not one hundredth of the <i>furor</i> was
+made about the departure, if, in fact, any notice was taken of it at
+all. With the accession of Alaska, through the efforts of Secretary
+Seward and Senator Sumner, the discovery of the Cassiar mines, in
+British Columbia, but which must be reached through Alaska, and a few
+other minor incentives, set many people to looking northward; they then
+found that they could continue their trips on a long inland salt-water
+river, of which the well-known Puget Sound was but a small part,&mdash;hardly
+the equivalent of Narragansett Bay taken from Long Island Sound, or
+Green Bay from Lake Michigan. Not that these were the first explorations
+and discoveries of importance in the inland passage and its surrounding
+woods and waters, by any manner of means. Cook and Clerke, as early as
+1776; Dixon, from 1785 to 1788; Langsdorff, in 1803&ndash;8; La Perouse, in
+1785&ndash;88; Lisianski, from 1803 to 1806; Meares, of the Royal navy, from
+1788 to 1789; and especially Vancouver, from 1790 to 1795,&mdash;had all
+peeped into this part of the country, and many of the explorations and
+surveys were of the most extended nature; but, at about the time of
+which I speak, the knowledge of the inland passage to the bulk of the
+people, even in these parts so near to it, was nearly as musty as the
+old volumes on the library shelves that gave the most information. In
+fact, but little knowledge or interest was to be found regarding these
+parts. Their history of development from that embryonic state where
+everything told is regarded as bordering on the mythical, to where a
+line of ocean steamers visits them with crowded passenger lists, is the
+usual history of such developments.</p>
+
+<p>The inland passage to Alaska may be said to practically extend from
+Tacoma, in Washington Territory, at the head of Puget Sound, to Chilkat,
+Alaska, at the head of Lynn Channel, a distance of nearly 1,100 miles,
+where the tourist taking a sea voyage has high shores in close proximity
+on either side of him, except a few places here and there, where a short
+communication with the ocean outside is to be had. But this &ldquo;inland
+passage,&rdquo; so called, is not the only one leading between the points
+named. It is, rather, a Broadway in New York City, a Pennsylvania avenue
+in Washington, State street in Chicago,&mdash;i.&nbsp;e., the main way; but every
+few miles a vessel could turn off down another passage as readily as a
+pedestrian or vehicle could down a side street, and, continuing a short
+way, return to the main thoroughfare again. Probably all the channels
+and straits and sounds and inlets in this part of Alaska, British
+Columbia and Washington Territory, susceptible of navigation by
+fair-sized ocean and river steamers, and all of them connecting with
+each other in a perfect network of waterways, would, if placed end to
+end, reach from a quarter to a third of the way around the world. Many
+of them are so illy charted&mdash;or not charted at all&mdash;that no craft of
+value would trust herself to follow their courses, while some of the
+smaller ways, but probably none the less picturesque, have yet to bear
+the first white man on their bosom. The most picturesque of all the ways
+through this intricacy of picturesque channels has been selected,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>
+carefully surveyed, and experienced pilots conduct the vessels to and
+from Alaska on its waters. The whole length of the passage is heavily
+timbered with various kinds of pine, fir, hemlock, cedar and spruce.
+Here and there avalanches from the mountain tops have swept through the
+dense timber, like a sickle through so much grain; and, although in a
+few years the growth is restored, yet the varying shades of green in the
+old and new growth of trees, running in perpendicular stripes up the
+steep hillsides, plainly show the ancient and recent devastations.
+Prettily situated Indian villages dot the narrow, shelving shores at
+rare intervals along the passage; and, when these nomads of the
+Northwest are seen, which is not infrequent, the chances are more than
+likely that it will be in a canoe, where they spend two-thirds of their
+out-of-door life.</p>
+
+<p>Says the &ldquo;American Cyclopædia,&rdquo; speaking of this interesting part of
+Washington Territory, the southern part of the inland passage:
+&ldquo;Washington Territory possesses a great multitude of harbors, perhaps
+more than any other country of equal extent on the globe. Puget Sound,
+which has an average width of two miles, never less than one nor more
+than four, and a depth never less than eight fathoms, runs 100 miles
+inland in a southward direction from the Straits of Fuca; and Hood's
+Canal, twelve miles further west, with half the width, runs in the same
+general direction about 60 miles. These two great estuaries, or arms of
+tidewater, have depth sufficient for the largest vessels, and numerous
+bends and corners where the most perfect protection may be found against
+the winds.&rdquo; Captain Wilkes, in the report of his famous exploring
+expedition, writes of Puget Sound: &ldquo;I venture nothing in saying there is
+no country in the world that possesses waters equal to these.&rdquo; The Coast
+Range and Cascade Range of mountains are plainly visible from the sound.
+Near the Columbia river the Coast Range is not very high; but west of
+Hood's Canal it rises, in abrupt, beetling ridges, 7,000 to 9,000 feet
+high, called the Olympian Mountains, many of the peaks being
+snow-crowned throughout the year. The Cascade Range fairly bristles with
+snow-clad peaks from 8,000 to over 14,000 feet in height, and in every
+direction, almost, may be seen the grandest Alpine scenery in the
+distance.</p>
+
+<p>Steaming northward through Puget Sound from Tacoma, with Seattle and
+other towns upon our right, and Port Townsend, the port of entry to the
+sound, upon our left, we come to Juan de Fuca Strait, which would lead
+us to the Pacific Ocean were we to follow it out. It is the most
+southern of all the waterways that connect the great sea with the
+network of channels inside, and formerly was much used as a part of the
+route to Alaska or Puget Sound from Portland, Oregon, or San Francisco,
+California; the steamer putting out to sea for a day if from the former
+port, and for four or five if from the latter, the passengers having all
+the discomforts of a sea voyage for that time. Where Magellan sailed
+over the Pacific Ocean it well deserved the name; but along the rough
+northern coast the amount of stormy weather increases, and a voyage on
+this part of the Pacific is not always calculated to impress one with
+the appropriateness of the great ocean's name. The construction of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span>
+Northern Pacific Railroad from the Columbia river to Puget Sound has
+made these sea voyages unnecessary to reach a port on the inland
+passage; and, unless a person's stomach is built on &ldquo;nautical lines,&rdquo; so
+that he really enjoys an ocean trip, he can save this discomfort by a
+cut across lots on a railroad train. In fact, it must be kept in mind,
+that, while the trip on the inland passage is an ocean voyage, equal to
+one from New York City to Havana and return, it is, as far as
+sea-sickness is concerned, as if the Hudson river was turned around in
+the opposite direction, and we sailed on its waters from New York to
+Havana and return; while the inland passage, in its southern part, is as
+accessible by railroad travel, to the people of the United States and
+Canada, as any point on the Hudson river. Therefore, broad Juan de Fuca
+Strait, where the pulsations of the ocean's life outside are even felt
+to its eastern end, in much diminished waves, however, carries fewer
+persons than formerly, and especially of that reluctant class who look
+uncomplainingly at the terrors of the sea, from the basis of dire
+necessity.</p>
+
+<p>Crossing this strait, which has led to so many controversies as to
+whether the old Greek from whom it is named actually discovered this
+beautiful body of water, or only made a lucky guess in publishing to the
+world a mythical journey of his, we sight and bear down on the beautiful
+British island of Vancouver, whose metropolis is Victoria, and alongside
+of whose docks we shall soon be made fast.</p>
+
+<p>Victoria, the city, was built on the site of old Fort Victoria, a Hudson
+Bay Company trading post of that great British monopoly that held nearly
+all British America under its control for two hundred years, and,
+although broken as a monopoly, has yet an influence to assist or retard
+the development of the country which is incalculable. The Fraser river
+gold mine excitement in the '50's did much to build up Victoria, and
+send it forward into the front rank of Pacific coast cities, a position
+which she has held with varying fortunes, though now, in common with the
+whole Northwest, once more on the ascending wave.</p>
+
+<p>Cities, like individuals, have their &ldquo;hobbies,&rdquo; although seldom so
+prominently marked; and the municipal &ldquo;hobby&rdquo; of Victoria is her
+splendidly constructed roads, leading through the town and far beyond
+the suburbs, and in which she has no superior on the Pacific coast of
+North America, and but few in the world. If the steamer remains long
+enough in the harbor,&mdash;and during excursion times in the summer months
+they always do,&mdash;a drive should be taken on the Victoria roads, and
+especially the one leading to Esquimalt harbor and return, some two or
+three miles in all. It is but one, however, of the many beautiful
+drives; but it is only necessary to mention them in a general way for
+any one who would desire to test them, so readily can all needed
+information be found on the spot.</p>
+
+<p>In quaint little smoke-stained and dingy-looking stores in
+out-of-the-way nooks and corners of the streets are to be found the
+Victorian curiosity shops, crowded with relics of the fast-disappearing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span>
+Indian tribes that once formed a much denser population in this part of
+the country than at present. Pretty little mats and baskets are made
+from the sea-grass, dyed with the juices from berries and other natural
+dyes, and sold for the merest trifles. Curiously carved steatite houses,
+in miniature imitation of the Indian dwellings, and &ldquo;totem poles&rdquo; made
+by the Hydah or Haïda Indians, are to be seen for sale. Sometimes they
+carve plaques with spread-eagles and other fanciful designs upon them;
+rude but serviceable mats from the inner bark of the cedar tree, and all
+the known&mdash;and unknown&mdash;knick-knacks that can come from the barbaric
+ingenuity of Indian art, and which would require a pamphlet larger than
+the one in the reader's hands to chronicle half. This is the beginning
+of such curious wares that will be temptingly displayed before the
+tourist at every town and stopping place on the route, and from which
+may be selected such mementoes of the journey as will please the
+individual fancy.</p>
+
+<p>Says a writer in the <i>Overland Monthly</i>, the <i>Century Magazine</i> of the
+Pacific coast: &ldquo;Victoria, in a rock-bound and land-protected cove, is
+the most attractive and the largest city on Vancouver's Island. During
+the days of the Fraser river excitement, Victoria was a much more
+energetic city than it is to-day. There were exciting times there then,
+and, because of the great expectations which everybody indulged in, land
+was bid up to an enormously high figure, and the town's prospects were
+considered wonderfully brilliant. But the Fraser was a fraud,
+comparatively, and its mines were quickly exhausted, so that Victoria
+received a setback, from which it is only just recovering. It is a
+picturesque town, thoroughly English, staid and conservative, and its
+location is an enviable one. In the distance rise the blue-hued heights
+of the Vancouver ranges, and nearer at hand lie the waters of Fuca
+Straits; beyond which there can be seen the snowy peaks of the
+Washington Territory mountains. Rounding the long point of land which
+juts out into the sea to form Victoria harbor, the town lay all revealed
+to us at last. In one direction were red painted shops set upon a high
+bluff overlooking the bay, and eastward there were green fields and
+trimly built cottages.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Coming ashore?&rsquo; we were asked at length.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Not to-day,&rsquo; the artist said.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Then, don't judge Victoria until you see the place,&rsquo; came the word
+from the dock.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;We promised, and said that when homeward bound we would make a call.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Returning, the narrator continues, &ldquo;On the wharf at Victoria stood our
+friend of a month ago.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Coming ashore?&rsquo; he said, when he saw us.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Yes.&rsquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Good, we can show you a pretty town. Disappointed in Alaska?&rsquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;No; it's the grandest country for scenery I&mdash;&rsquo; began the artist.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;Yes, yes, I know,&rsquo; said our friend, interrupting him. &lsquo;Big glaciers,
+fine sailing, curious sights, no sea-sickness. Same old story; hear it every trip.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Victoria is picturesque in every detail,&rdquo; continues the narrator. &ldquo;The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span>&rsquo;
+land faces a land-locked bay, and behind the place stretch dense
+forests, through which roadways extend to the various suburbs. During
+our stay the frosts of early fall began to color the leaves, and at
+night the air grew sharp and chill. But still the air was clear, and
+down in the harbor white-winged yachts still moved over the bluish
+waters.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Vancouver Island, which forms the outlying barrier to, or seaward side
+of, the inland passage from Juan de Fuca Strait to Queen Charlotte
+Sound, is one of the largest islands in that vast archipelago which
+forms the passage, and is the largest under British dominion. It was
+called Quadra Island by the Spaniards, who held it by descent from
+Mexico (then a Spanish colony) until the latter part of the eighteenth
+century, when Vancouver, of the Royal navy, was sent from England to
+receive its surrender from the Spanish; it having been ordered by the
+home government at Madrid,&mdash;which he did from the Castilian governor,
+Quadra. Vancouver called it Quadra and Vancouver's Island; but the
+Spanish title has slowly disappeared under British rule. Vancouver
+pushed his discoveries from here to Cook's Inlet during his two or three
+years' cruise on this coast, and many of the names in the inland passage
+and adjacent lands and waters are due to his explorations made nearly a
+hundred years ago.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving Victoria and its picturesque surroundings behind us, we swing in
+a huge circle around the southeastern coast of Vancouver Island, until
+we are pointed northward once more.</p>
+
+<p>Strictly speaking, &ldquo;the inland passage to Alaska, as defined by nautical
+men, now begins, Puget Sound only belonging to it in a geographical
+sense, but as similar thereto as &lsquo;peas in a pod.&rsquo;&rdquo; We shortly after pass
+through a congerie of pretty islands, like the Thousand Islands of the
+St Lawrence on a greatly magnified scale, when we come to the Gulf of
+Georgia, one of the widest portions of the inland passage. The islands
+we have left to the right (although it may change by the pilot not
+taking the usual route, so many are they to choose from) are the San
+Juan Islands, of far more importance than one would believe, looking at
+the unpopulated shores; at least, they were so in 1856, when the United
+States and Great Britain came very near coming to national blows about
+their possession. The matter was finally left to arbitration in the
+hands of the Emperor of Brazil, and then transferred to the present
+Emperor of Germany, who awarded them to the United States. The British
+troops then withdrew, a post of them having been on one end of the large
+island, with an American post on the other.</p>
+
+<p>As we steam through the Gulf of Georgia we leave the highest point
+(Point Roberts) of the United States off to our right, in the distance,
+on the forty-ninth parallel.</p>
+
+<p>Some forty or fifty miles farther on, and we enter the first typical
+waters of the inland passage,&mdash;Discovery Passage,&mdash;a narrow waterway
+between high, mountainous banks; a great salt-water, river-like channel,
+about a mile in breadth, and twenty-three and a half miles long by the
+British Admiralty charts. A huge yellow bluff, projecting into the sea,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span>
+greets the eye as the passage is approached, and the great, wide channel
+to the east is the one the tourist has selected as a matter of course
+for the steamer to pursue; but she agreeably disappoints him, and enters
+the narrow, picturesque way. This Discovery Passage is a Yankee &ldquo;find,&rdquo;
+having first been entered by a Boston sloop, the &ldquo;Washington,&rdquo; in 1789.
+The broad right-hand passage could have been taken, as the land to our
+right is an island (of which the yellow clay bluff is the southern
+cape), called Valdez Island after an ancient mariner who visited this
+part of the world in 1792, in the Spanish galleon &ldquo;Mexicana.&rdquo; At first
+one is slightly nonplused at the frequency of Spanish names in these
+quarters; but, as the early history of the country is closely searched,
+the conclusion is forced on one more and more that these old Castilian
+navigators have not even got their dues, and, where their names once
+formed an honorable majority, they have slowly disappeared before the
+constant revisions of the geographers and hydrographers of another
+people, who have since acquired possession. We will come to many such
+changes of nomenclature on our interesting trip.</p>
+
+<p>About two miles from the entrance to Discovery Passage we come to the
+Indian Village of Yaculta, on Valdez Island. It is the first of many we
+will see before we return to Victoria again, and, like most of them, it
+is on one of the narrow, level places between the high hills and the
+deep sea that happens here and there in this Alpine country; or its
+inhabitants would have to live in the trees on the steep hillsides, or
+in their canoes on the water. The large river coming in from the
+Vancouver Island side, some five or six miles from the entrance to the
+passage, is Campbell river, and is navigable for some distance inland by
+boats and canoes.</p>
+
+<p>About half way through Discovery Passage we come to the Seymour Narrows,
+a contracted channel of the passage, about two miles long, and not much
+over one-fourth the previous width, where the tides rush through with
+the velocity of the swiftest rivers (said to be nine knots at
+spring-tides), a current which is so strong that it is generally
+calculated upon in departing from Victoria so as to reach this point
+about slack water. In the narrows is a submerged rock, with the
+pretty-sounding alliterative title of Ripple Rock, on which the United
+States man-of-war &ldquo;Saranac&rdquo; was lost in the summer of 1875. Ripple Rock
+is now so well marked that it is no longer dangerous to navigation.
+Northward from the narrows the hills rise in bold gradients, making the
+change quite noticeable, and more picturesque.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/img_059_h.jpg">
+     <img src="images/img_059.jpg" width="240" height="400"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+   </a>
+<p class="caption">SCENES IN THE INLAND PASSAGE.<br />
+From Schwatka's &ldquo;Along Alaska's Great River,&rdquo; Cassell&nbsp;&amp;&nbsp;Co. New York. Publisher</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Chatham Point marks the northern entrance to Discovery Passage, and here<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span>
+the tourist apparently sees the inland passage bearing off slightly to
+the east from this cape, when, with a sudden swerve to the westward, the
+ship swings around at full right angles to her original course, and
+enters a channel which a minute before seemed to be but a bay on the
+west side of the original water-way. The new channel is Johnstone
+Strait, and is over twice as long as Discovery Passage, that we have
+just left; or, to be more exact, about fifty-five miles in length. The
+shores are now getting truly mountainous in character, ridges and peaks
+on the south side bearing snow throughout the summer on their summits,
+4,000 to 5,000 feet high, and the pilot will tell you that the waters on
+which you are sailing correspond in their dimensions, in many places 100
+to 150 fathoms of line failing to reach bottom. The rough and rugged
+islands which we pass to our right, about three or four miles beyond
+Chatham Point, are the Pender Islands. The high mountains to the left
+and front are the Prince of Wales range. About fifteen to twenty miles
+after entering Johnstone Strait, a conspicuous valley is seen on
+Vancouver Island, the only break in the high mountain range on that
+side. It is the valley of a stream called Salmon river, named from that
+delicious fish, which here abound, and in the pursuit of which the
+Indians have shown this stream to be navigable for canoes for a number
+of miles inland. A conspicuous conical hill, probably a thousand feet
+high, rises in the valley and marks it to the traveler. Just beyond
+Salmon river's mouth, some three miles, the strait widens, another
+joining it from the north. The mountains to our left are now the New
+Castle range, Mount Palmerston attaining the height of 5,000 feet. At
+the northern end of Johnstone Strait we have a number of channels to
+choose from,&mdash;Blackfish Sound, Weynton Passage, Race Passage and
+Broughton Strait, the longest of all, and only fifteen miles in length,
+which we take. All these channels simply indicate that there is a
+cluster of islands where Johnstone Strait swells out into Queen
+Charlotte Sound, which we enter as Broughton Strait is left behind, and
+that as we select between different islands we take a different-named
+channel. These particular islands are the Malcolm Islands, sometimes
+confined in its application to the largest island. About half way
+through the Broughton Strait comes in the Nimpkish river from the
+Vancouver side. Mount Holdsworth is the high, conical peak we see to the
+south from here. At the mouth of the river is the Indian village of
+Cheslakee. It is said that an ascent of this river reveals the most
+picturesque scenery in lakes and falls, a saying to which all the
+surroundings in the inland passage itself, at this point, would give the
+most ample corroboration. Directly north from the river's mouth is
+Cormorant Island, which we leave to our right; and the bay in its side
+is Alert Bay, where exist a salmon cannery, an Indian mission, a wharf
+at which ships can land, and other signs of civilization.</p>
+
+<p>Queen Charlotte Sound is one of the few openings to the Pacific Ocean.
+It is about fifty miles long, and, in some places, nearly half as wide,
+and looks like getting out to sea after having passed through the narrow
+channels just left behind. It was entered and named by Wedgeborough in
+the summer of 1786; so those visitors of 1886 to its grand waters may
+celebrate its centennial, and drink a toast to Queen Charlotte, the
+queen of King George III., and queen for fifty-seven years. About nine
+or ten miles on its waters, and to our left, is Fort Rupert, a Hudson
+Bay Company's trading post, with a large Indian village clustered around
+it. Here fruits and vegetables are grown for the local demand. About<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>
+half way through Queen Charlotte Sound, and we pass through a narrow
+channel, twenty-two miles long, named Goletas Channel. Emerging from it,
+we leave Cape Commerell on our left side, and bid good-bye to Vancouver
+Island, for this is its northernmost cape. Near the exit from Goletas
+Channel, but by another passage, now seldom used, is where the United
+States man-of-war &ldquo;Suwanee&rdquo; was wrecked, on a submerged rock, in July,
+1869, when the inland passage was not so well known by pilots as it is
+now. We can now look out to sea toward the Pacific Ocean; but a short
+journey plunges us into one of the many passages ahead of us, the
+smallest, or one nearest the mainland, being taken, called Fitzhugh
+Sound. It was named in 1786 by Captain Hanna, is about forty miles long,
+and with a width of about three miles. The first island to our left on
+entering is Calvert Island. About ten miles from its southern cape is an
+indentation in the island, called Safety Cove or Port Safety, probably a
+mile deep. It was while delayed in this picturesque little harbor, in
+1885, that Mr. Charles Hallock, the well-known author on piscatorial
+pursuits, penned the following lines, descriptive of the inland passage,
+which we find in the <i>American Angler</i> of September, 1885:</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The mainland is flanked throughout nearly its entire extent by a belt
+of islands, of which the majority are sea-girt mountains. Of course,
+throughout this extended coast-line there are many islands of many
+different phases,&mdash;some of them mere rocks, to which the kelps cling for
+dear life, like stranded sailors in a storm; while others are gently
+rounded mounds, wooded with fir; and others, still, precipitous cliffs
+standing breast deep in the waves. Most aptly has this wave-washed
+region been termed an archipelago of mountains and land-locked seas.
+Steaming through the labyrinths of straits and channels which seem to
+have no outlets; straining the neck to scan the tops of snow-capped
+peaks which rise abruptly from the basin where you ride at anchor;
+watching the gambols of great whales, thresher-sharks and herds of
+sea-lions, which seem as if penned up in an aquarium, so completely are
+they enclosed by the shadowy hills,&mdash;one seems, indeed, in a new
+creation, and watches the strange forms around him with an intensity of
+interest which almost amounts to awe.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;In this weird region of bottomless depths, there are no sand beaches or
+gravelly shores. All the margins of mainland and islands drop down plump
+into inky fathoms of water, and the fall of the tide only exposes the
+rank yellow weeds which cling to the damp crags and slippery rocks, and
+the mussels and barnacles which crackle and hiss when the lapping waves
+recede. * * * * * When the tide sets in, great rafts of algæ, with stems
+fifty feet long, career along the surface; millions of jelly-fish and
+anemones crowded as closely as the stars in the firmament; great
+air-bulbs, with streamers floating like the long hair of female corpses;
+schools of porpoises and fin-back whale rolling and plunging headlong
+through the boiling foam; all sorts of marine and Mediterranean fauna
+pour in a ceaseless surge, like an irresistible army. Hosts of gulls
+scream overhead, or whiten the ledges, where they squat content or run
+about feeding.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Here and there along the almost perpendicular cliffs the outflow of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span>
+melting snow in the pockets of the mountains leaps down in dizzy
+waterfalls from heights that are higher than the Yosemite. From the
+cañons which divide the foot-hills, cascades pour out into the brine,
+and all their channels are choked with salmon crowding toward the upper
+waters. I could catch them with my hands as long as my strength endured,
+so helpless and infatuated are these creatures of predestination. At the
+heads of many of these rivulets there are lakes in which dwell salmon
+trout, spotted with crimson spots as large as a pea; and the rainbow
+trout, with his iridescent lateral stripe; and his cousin germain, the
+&lsquo;cut-throat trout,&rsquo; slashed with carmine under the gills. And there is
+another trout, most familiar to the eye in Eastern waters, and doubly
+welcome to the sight in this far-off region&mdash;the <i>Salvelinus
+Canadensis</i>, or &lsquo;sea-trout,&rsquo; which I have recognized these many years as
+a separate species. * * * Here he is in his garniture of crimson, blue
+and gold, just like his up-stream neighbors of New England and the
+Provinces. * *</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The seas are full of strange species. Here the family <i>Percidæ</i> is
+regnant and supreme among the food fishes. The number of species and
+varieties is remarkable. Here are the <i>Embiotocidæ</i>, or <i>viviparous</i>
+perch, which bring forth their young in litters, like cats or dogs, to
+the number of eight to forty at a time. There are no less than seventeen
+known varieties of them. Here, also, are at least fifteen varieties of
+<i>Scorpænidæ</i>, all fine table fish, which are locally known as rock-cod,
+groupers and snappers, but having no close relations at all to the
+family of <i>Gadidæ</i>. I send herewith the differential characteristics of
+four of them taken near our present berth, in latitude 51 degrees 30
+minutes. The scarlet snapper seems very closely allied to the <i>Lutjanus
+Blackfordi</i> of Eastern Florida and the Gulf of Mexico, from which he
+could scarcely be distinguished in appearance. The others are all fish
+of brilliant colors. No. 2 can scarcely be distinguished from the
+fresh-water bass of the lakes lying west of the Mississippi,&mdash;the
+<i>Micropterus</i>,&mdash;either in form, fin system or color. At Sitka I found a
+fish of exactly the same shape, but black as a sea-bass of the Atlantic
+(<i>Centropristis atrarius</i>). No. 4 belongs, I believe, to the family of
+<i>Chiridæ</i>, and is locally known as a sea-trout. * * * These fish take
+salmon roe, clams, sand-worms, crabs, meat and cut-fish bait. The black
+bass of Sitka is taken alongshore with a trolling spoon. * * * The other
+fish were taken chiefly in thirty fathoms of water on the young flood
+tide.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Besides these fish, we have taken halibut, two kinds of flounder,
+skates, dogfish of several kinds and strange shapes, sharks, sculpins,
+etc.; some of the sculpins were beautifully marked in blue, red and
+brown. * * I have had several of the species painted in oil, and will
+forward them to the Smithsonian, with descriptions.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>But let us leave this piscatorial paradise, as painted by one who is an
+artist in his line, and wend our way through the forty miles of Fitzhugh
+Sound. Then comes Lama Passage, contracted, winding and picturesque,
+about fourteen or fifteen miles long. About half way through we pass
+very near the Indian village of Bella-Bella, and which is also a Hudson<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span>
+Bay Company trading post. The Bella-Bellas were once a large tribe
+living in these parts; but the little village, of about twenty Indian
+houses, that the tourist passes on his left, represents the greater
+portion of the tribe at present, and gives one a practical and forcible
+illustration of the disappearance of &ldquo;the noble red man.&rdquo; A mission
+residence and a church, with the cattle on the cleared hills, give the
+place quite a civilized aspect. After Lama Passage comes Seaforth
+Channel, just as winding and pretty; the swingings to the right and
+left, in places where the passage is apparently right ahead, increase
+your respect for the pilot, and you wonder, in all these intricacies,
+like Goldsmith's village schoolmaster, &ldquo;how one small head could carry
+all he knew.&rdquo; At Milbank Sound we look out to sea for a brief half-hour,
+and then plunge into Finlayson Channel, a typical waterway of the inland
+passage, like a great river. The sides are very high mountains, densely
+timbered nearly to the top, where snow exists the year round, forming a
+base of supplies for the beautiful waterfalls that dash down the
+precipitous heights, like silvery columns, on a deep green background.
+It is said that all the little streams of this region swarm with salmon,
+giving the Indians a most bountiful supply. Then comes Graham Reach,
+about twenty miles long; then Fraser Reach, of ten miles; and McKay
+Reach, of seven,&mdash;that could all have been given a single name, and much
+trouble have been saved. A little, irregular sheet of water, called
+Wright Sound, and Grenville Channel, &ldquo;as straight as an arrow,&rdquo; gives us
+nearly fifty miles of rectilinear sailing.</p>
+
+<p>We are now getting far enough north to make the sight of snow a familiar
+one, and the dense timber is striped with perpendicular windrows, where
+large avalanches have cut their way through them in the winter, when the
+snow falls heavily in these parts. Chatham Sound is the last channel we
+essay in British domain, and a royal old sheet of water it is, with a
+width of nearly ten miles, and about three or four times as long. After
+about three hours on its bosom a great channel is opened east and west
+before us, on which the swells from the broad Pacific enter. This is
+Dixon Entrance, and the boundary between British Columbia and Alaska
+beyond, whose blue mountains we see in the distance. The islands still
+continue; and the number, in this part of Alaska alone, has been
+estimated at eleven hundred, and this, too, excludes the rocks and
+islets. Clarence Strait is the main channel as soon as Alaskan waters
+are entered; but there are others on both sides of it which may be
+taken. It is a little over a hundred miles long, and somewhat variable
+in its width. It was named by Vancouver, nearly a hundred years ago,
+after the Duke of Clarence. From Clarence Strait we enter Stickeen
+Strait; for most of the steamers call at Wrangell, and this bends us off
+of our course.</p>
+
+<p>Wrangell is a tumble-down, dilapidated-looking town, in a most
+beautifully picturesque situation, and the first impression is to make
+one ashamed of the displays of the human race compared with those of
+nature. It is the port to the Cassiar mines; or, better speaking, it
+was, for they have seen their palmiest days, a fact which is quite
+evident on looking at their dependency, the town of Wrangell. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span>
+Cassiar mines are in British Columbia, and to reach them the Stickeen
+river, emptying near Wrangell, must be ascended, itself a most
+picturesque stream, and one well worth visiting if the tourist can catch
+one of the little boats that yet occasionally depart from Wrangell to
+ascend the rushing, impetuous river. Says one writer of it, in the
+Philadelphia <i>Dispatch</i>: &ldquo;The Stickeen is navigable for small steamers
+to Glenora, one hundred and fifty miles, flowing first in a general
+westerly direction, through grassy, undulating plains, darkened here and
+there with patches of evergreens; then, curving southward, and receiving
+numerous tributaries from the north, it enters the Coast Range, and
+sweeps across it to the sea through a Yosemite valley more than a
+hundred miles long, and one to three miles wide at the bottom, and from
+five thousand to eight thousand feet deep, marvelously beautiful and
+inspiring from end to end. To the appreciative tourist, sailing up the
+river through the midst of it all, the cañon, for a distance of one
+hundred and ten miles, is a gallery of sublime pictures,&mdash;an unbroken
+series of majestic mountains, glaciers, falls, cascades, forests,
+groves, flowery garden spots, grassy meadows in endless variety of form
+and composition,&mdash;furniture enough for a dozen Yosemites! while, back of
+the walls, and thousands of feet above them, innumerable peaks and
+spires and domes of ice and snow tower grandly into the sky. About
+fifteen miles above the mouth of the river you come to the first of the
+great glaciers, pouring down through the forest in a shattered
+ice-cascade nearly to the level of the river. Twelve miles above this
+point a noble view is opened along the Skoot river cañon&mdash;a group of
+glacier-laden Alps, from ten thousand to twelve thousand feet high.
+Thirty-five miles above the mouth of the river the most striking object
+of all comes in sight; this is the lower expansion of the great glacier,
+measuring about six miles around the &lsquo;snout,&rsquo; pushed boldly forward into
+the middle of the valley among the trees, while its sources are mostly
+hidden. It takes its rise in the heart of the range, some thirty or
+forty miles away. Compared with this, the Swiss <i>mer de glace</i> is a
+small thing. It is called the &lsquo;Ice Mountain.&rsquo; The front of the snout is
+three hundred feet high, but rises rapidly back for a few miles to a
+height of about one thousand feet. Seen through gaps in the trees
+growing on one of its terminal moraines, as one sails slowly along
+against the current, the marvelous beauty of the chasms and clustered
+pinnacles shows to fine advantage in the sunshine.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Wrangell's log-cabin backwoods stores are good places to search for
+Indian relics, the Stickeen Indians living in the vicinity being the
+most prolific in the manufacture of these savage curios. Leaving
+Wrangell, a westward-trending strait (Sumner Strait, after Senator
+Sumner) of forty or fifty miles carries us directly out to the Pacific
+Ocean; but an hour's run finds us turning into another passage,&mdash;Chatham
+Strait,&mdash;one of the largest of the almost innumerable channels of the
+inland passage, and which points squarely to the north. It is nearly one
+hundred and fifty miles long, and about five or six miles wide. It was
+named by Vancouver, about the end of last century, after the then Earl
+of Chatham, and is a most noble sheet of water.</p>
+
+<p>Formerly the pilots used to go around Cape Ommaney, and put out to sea<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span>
+in order to reach Sitka, although there was a channel leading from
+Chatham Strait thereto which saved the roughness of a sea voyage. It was
+shunned, however, by most of them, and, in getting the ominous name of
+Peril Strait, certain supposed dangers were thought to be lurking in it.
+Captain Carroll, who has spent half an ordinary lifetime in these
+waters, and done much toward practically determining their navigability,
+found that most of the peril was in the name,&mdash;at least to ships under
+his management,&mdash;and Peril Straits<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a> are used nearly altogether now,
+making Sitka, though facing the Pacific Ocean, practically on the inland
+passage.</p>
+
+<p>Just before entering Peril Straits,&mdash;by the way, one of the most
+charming of the many channels described,&mdash;we stop at a little place
+ensconced in a narrow inlet of Chatham Strait, called Killisnoo. At
+Killisnoo the Northwest Trading Company, of Portland, Oregon, have
+erected quite extensive works for the capture and curing of cod-fish,
+which has made this something of a port, at least for Alaska. There is
+also a phosphate factory here, where phosphates are made from herring,
+after the oil is extracted. This company formerly caught whales in this
+strait; but I understand the enterprise has been partially, or wholly,
+given up as not paying; or, at least, in proportion to the new
+enterprises they have more recently opened. Around this part of
+Admiralty Island are the Kootznahoo Indians, who have been quite a
+warlike band of savages in the past, but have been quite mollified by an
+incident in their troubles, which I will give in the language of a
+correspondent to the New York <i>Times</i>, of November 23, 1884:</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The Kootznahoo village, near the fishing station of Killisnoo, was the
+scene of the latest naval battle and bombardment on the coast, two years
+ago. A medicine man of the tribe who went out in a whale-boat was killed
+by the explosion of a bomb harpoon, and the Indians demanded money or a
+life as an equivalent for their loss. The Killisnoo traders did not
+respect this Indian law of atonement, and the Indians seized a white man
+for hostage. Finding that the hostage had only one eye, they declared
+him <i>cultus</i> (bad), and sent word that they must have a whole and sound
+man, or his equivalent in blankets, to make up for their lost medicine
+man. They threatened the massacre of the settlement, and word was sent
+to Sitka for help. Captain Merriman, United States navy, went over with
+the revenue cutter &lsquo;Corwin&rsquo; and the steamer &lsquo;Favorite,&rsquo; and made a
+counter demand for blankets as a guarantee for their future peace and
+quiet. Failing to respond, he carried out his threat of shelling their
+village, the Indians having improved their hours of delay by removing
+their canoes, valuables and provisions. Most of the houses were
+destroyed, and the humbled Indians came to terms, and have been the most
+penitent and reliable friends of the whites ever since. They have built
+their houses now around the Killisnoo settlement; and, although Captain
+Merriman left the Territory some time ago, they all speak of him as the
+best of <i>tyees</i>, and the settlers say that the naval battle of Killisnoo
+has made life and property more secure throughout the Territory.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/img_066_h.jpg">
+     <img src="images/img_066.jpg" width="350" height="260"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+   </a>
+<p class="caption">AN ALASKA INDIAN HOUSE WITH TOTEM POLES.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>At present the inland passage in the Territory and British Columbia is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>
+as safe from Indians as Broadway, in New York City, or State street,
+Chicago. In no place in the world of which I know, or have ever heard,
+are the facilities for studying Indian life so good for those who only
+spend a tourist's jaunt among them. Many people along the far Western
+railroads will remember seeing here and there a dirty group of assorted
+Indians, begging for alms, and taking full advantage of all the
+silver-plated sympathy showered upon them in that metal; for they were
+parts of the curious scenes to behold. Generally they were a slim
+delegation from some far-away agency, and a person living in Washington,
+where the Indian chiefs occasionally visit in their full regalia, would
+have a better chance to see typical Indians than the tourist, unless he
+left the road and visited their agencies, a journey of toil and trouble,
+and less welcome if the agent be a stranger. Alaska is widely different.
+From its mountainous, Alpine nature, living inland is out of the
+question; and the Indians seek the few narrow beaches and low points
+scattered here and there through the inland passage as the places
+whereon to build their little villages, and these are in as full view to
+the passing steamer as New York and Brooklyn are to a boat going up or
+down the East river channel. At rarer intervals more extensive plats of
+level or rolling land have been found; and at some of these, in
+proximity to certain places where business pursuits are carried on,
+white men have erected their little towns; and around these, again, the
+Indians have clustered their curious cabins in the most friendly way,
+giving the greatest access to tourists during even the short time that
+vessels stop at the ports to load and unload their freight. At Wrangell,
+Sitka, Pyramid Harbor, etc., are to be seen villages of Stickeens,
+Sitkas, Chilkats, Kootznahoos, etc., in close juxtaposition. In the
+<i>Polaris</i>, of Portland, Oregon, under date of November 19, 1881, I find
+the following description of the old Stickeen village, just below
+Wrangell, from the pen of the Rev. Dr. Lindsley, a well-known divine and
+missionary of the Northwest:</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The next day we went to the site of the old Stickeen town. It was a
+beautiful situation, looking out upon the sea, sheltered and with sunny
+exposure. In the bay were several islands. One of them was kept sacred
+as a burial place. The tombs were visible at a distance. These were
+strong boxes raised above the ground for protection, built in the shape
+of houses, sometimes painted, and within which the remains are
+deposited. We could not but admire the rude taste, as well as the
+sentiments which were thus conveyed. The buildings were falling into
+decay; but enough remained to impress us with the fact that their
+mechanical skill was of no recent origin. The Stickeens have occupied
+the site for generations past; and here were immense wooden houses that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span>
+might have been standing a century ago, judging from the condition of
+the wooden buildings which I had examined on the Atlantic coast, and
+which are known to have been erected before the Revolutionary War. Those
+buildings were frail; these, built of massive timbers and posts of from
+two to three feet in diameter, some round, and others squared. The
+planks for the floors were several inches thick. The mortise and tenon
+work in the frames joined with accuracy, and other mechanical
+contrivances appeared in these structures. All were large, and some
+immense. I measured one house sixty by eighty feet.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/img_068_h.jpg">
+     <img src="images/img_068.jpg" width="365" height="267"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+   </a>
+<p class="caption">T'LINKET BASKET WORK.<br />
+(Made by the Indians of the Inland Passage.)
+</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The domestic life is patriarchal, several families being gathered under
+one roof. Genealogies were kept for ages, and honors and distinctions
+made hereditary. To mark these, insignia, like a coat-of-arms, were
+adopted, and in rude carvings they strove to represent them. I could
+decipher, also, the paintings that once figured these upon the posts and
+sides of houses. The eagle, the whale, the bear and the otter, and other
+animals of sea and land, were the favorites, ofttimes coupled with a
+warrior in the attitude of triumph. Gigantic representations of these
+family emblems were erected near the house, on posts, twenty to thirty
+feet high, covered with carvings of animals, and the devices stained
+with permanent pigments of black, red and blue. [See illustration on
+page <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, which is the front of a chief's house at Kaigan village.]
+Imaginary creatures resembling griffins or dragons, and reminding you of
+the mammoth animals that flourished in a distant geological period, were
+carved on the posts or pictured on the walls. Raised figures resembling
+hieroglyphics and Asiatic alphabets were carved on the inside wall. Some
+of the posts containing the family coat-of-arms, thus highly carved and
+decorated according to the native taste, were used as receptacles for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span>
+the remains of the dead, gathered up after cremation. Great sacredness
+was attached to them. To injure one was to insult the family to which it
+belonged; to cut one down was an unpardonable offense.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The description which I have now given will answer, with some
+unimportant differences, for the native houses as they are found
+elsewhere.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Of the readiness of these Indians to give exhibitions of their savage
+manners and customs for their visitors,&mdash;and which one will seldom see
+elsewhere, and never with so little trouble and effort on the
+spectator's part,&mdash;Dr. Lindsley says: &ldquo;By previous invitation, the
+missionaries and their guests assembled at the house of Tow-ah-att, a
+<i>tyee</i>, or chief of the Stickeen tribe. An exhibition of manners and
+customs had been prepared for us, to show us what Indian life had been.
+* * * The insignia on Tow-ah-att's house were the eagle and wolf,
+marking the union of two families. A brief address of welcome introduced
+the entertainment. Among the customs shown to us by the dramatic
+representation, were a warrior with blackened face, with spear and
+helmet, and with belt containing a two-edged knife, or dagger; a chief
+in full dress made of skins and a robe made of the wool of a mountain
+sheep. [For this robe see the illustration on page <a href="#Page_81">81</a>.] Each of these
+presented an imposing appearance. After these, masks and effigies
+appeared; next, a <i>potlatch</i> dance, in which a large number of the
+natives of both sexes engaged. This was followed by dances which were
+used only upon notable occasions which might be called sacred or
+religious. These dances and the chants were regarded by the natives with
+a species of veneration. We were struck with the comparative excellence
+of the singing which accompanied these dances, displaying a considerable
+amount of culture. Evidently much practice had been bestowed upon the
+art, as the large number, young and old, who engaged in them, observed
+the musical rests and parts with great precision. A large number of
+whites and Indians were present at this entertainment, and the house was
+not crowded. Our entertainers observed some formalities which could do
+no discredit to the most enlightened assemblies. After an address of
+welcome, and short speeches from visitors, one of the chiefs,
+Tow-ah-att, delivered a formal discourse.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Ivan Petroff, a Russian, of Alaska, who was deputized by the
+Superintendent of the United States Census of 1880 to collect statistics
+for his report regarding Alaska Territory, finds the following
+interesting items regarding the Indian tribes which the tourist will
+encounter in his trip to Southeastern Alaska:</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The outward characteristics of the T'linkit tribe may be enumerated as
+follows: The coarse, stiff, coal-black hair, dark eyebrows, but faintly
+delineated over the large black eyes full of expression; protruding
+cheek bones; thick, full lips (the under lips of the women disfigured by
+the custom of inserting round or oval pieces of wood or bone), and the
+septum of the men pierced for the purpose of inserting ornaments;
+beautiful white teeth; ears pierced not only in the lobes, but all<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span>
+around the rim. To these may be added the dark color of the skin, a
+medium stature, and a proud, erect bearing (this only applies to the
+men). The hands of the women are very small, and large feet are rarely
+met with.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Before their acquaintance with the Russians, the only clothing of the
+T'linkits consisted of skins sewed together, which they threw around
+their naked bodies without regard to custom or fashion. In addition to
+this, they wore, on festive occasions, blankets woven out of the fleeces
+of mountain goats. From time immemorial they have possessed the art of
+dyeing this material black and yellow by means of charcoal and a kind of
+moss called <i>sekhone</i>. The patterns of these blankets, wrought in
+colors, exhibit an astonishing degree of skill and industry; the hat,
+plaited of roots, is also ornamented with figures and representations of
+animals.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Both men and women paint their faces black and red with charcoal or
+soot, and vermilion (cinnabar), which are their favorite colors. They
+are mixed with seal oil, and rubbed well into the cuticle; subsequently,
+figures and patterns are scratched upon this surface with sticks of
+wood. The wealthy T'linkits paint their faces every day, while the
+plebeians indulge in this luxury only occasionally. As a rule, the
+T'linkits of both sexes go barefooted.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The men pierce the partition of the nose, the operation being performed
+in early childhood, frequently within a few weeks after birth. In the
+aperture thus made a silver ring is sometimes inserted large enough to
+cover the mouth; but the poorer individuals insert other articles, such
+as feathers, etc. They also pierce the lobes of the ear for the purpose
+of inserting shark's teeth, shells, and other ornaments, while through
+the holes around the rim of the ear they draw bits of red worsted or
+small feathers. Veniaminoff states that each hole in the ear was pierced
+in memory of some event or deed.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The ornamentation of the under lip of a female (now almost obsolete)
+marked an epoch in her life. As long as she remained single she wore
+this; but, as soon as she was married, a larger piece of wood or bone
+was pressed into the opening, and annually replaced by a still larger
+one, the inner side being hollowed out. It was, of course, impossible
+for these individuals to close their mouths, the under lip protruding,
+distended by the disk of wood or bone.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Veniaminoff states that among the T'linkits the married women are
+permitted to have what are called &lsquo;assistant husbands,&rsquo; who are
+maintained by the wives. Among the T'linkits the office of vice-husband
+can only be filled by a brother or near relative of the husband.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The T'linkits burn their dead upon funeral pyres, with the exception of
+the bodies of shamans, or sorcerers, which are deposited in boxes
+elevated on posts. The dead slave is not considered worthy of any
+ceremony whatever; his corpse is thrown into the sea like the carcass of
+a dog. When a T'linkit dies his relatives prepare a great feast,
+inviting a multitude of guests, especially if the deceased has been a
+chief or a wealthy member of a clan. The guests are chosen only from a
+strange clan; for instance, if the deceased belonged to the Raven clan,
+the guests must be from the Wolf clan, and <i>vice versa</i>. No certain
+time is set for the cremation or for the festivities; this depends<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span>
+altogether upon the magnitude of the preparations. Poor people who are
+unable to defray the cost of such ceremonies, take their dead to some
+distant cove or bay, and burn them without any display. When the guests
+have assembled and the pyre has been erected, the corpse is carried out
+of the village by invited guests, and placed upon the fagots. The pyre
+is then ignited in the presence of the relatives; but these latter take
+no active part, confining themselves to crying, weeping and howling. On
+such occasions many burn their hair, placing the head in the flames;
+others cut the hair short, and smear the face with the ashes of the
+deceased. When the cremation of the body has been accomplished, the
+guests return to the dwelling of the deceased, and seat themselves with
+the widow, who belongs to their clan, around the walls of the hut; the
+relatives of the deceased then appear with hair burned and cropped,
+faces blackened and disfigured, and place themselves within the circle
+of guests, sadly leaning upon sticks with bowed heads, and then begin
+their funeral dirges with weeping and howling. The guests take up the
+song when the relatives are exhausted, and thus the howling is kept up
+for four nights in succession, with only a brief interruption for
+refreshment. During this period of mourning, if the deceased had been a
+chief, or wealthy, the relatives formerly killed one or two slaves,
+according to the rank of the dead, in order to give him service in the
+other world. At the end of the period of mourning, or on the fourth day
+following the cremation, the relatives wash their blackened faces and
+paint them with gay colors, at the same time making presents to all the
+guests, chiefly to those who assisted in burning the corpse. Then the
+guests are feasted again, and the ceremony is at an end. The heir of the
+deceased is his sister's son, or, if he has no such relative, a younger
+brother. The heir was compelled to marry the widow.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>While I was at Chilkat the chief of the Crow clan was cremated with most
+savage ceremonials, no doubt well worth seeing, to which I was invited;
+but my preparations for my expedition kept me from accepting the
+invitation.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/img_072_h.jpg">
+     <img src="images/img_072.jpg" width="375" height="269"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+   </a>
+<p class="caption">SITKA, <ins title="ALASKA">ALASKA.</ins></p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Leaving Killisnoo, we cross Chatham Strait almost at right angles to its<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span>
+course (or due west), here about ten miles wide, and enter Peril
+Straits, about thirty-five miles long. They sweep boldly to the north in
+a great arc, and, like all winding and rapidly and alternately widening
+and narrowing of the inland channels, they are extremely picturesque,
+more from the contrast of different scenes so swiftly changed before
+one's eyes, than from anything radically new so presented. The old
+Russian name for them was Paboogni (meaning &ldquo;pernicious&rdquo;) Strait, and
+they got this title rather from an incident of appetite than bad
+navigation. In the latter part of last century the Russians used to
+import the poor Aleuts of the Aleutian Islands, far to the westward, as
+mercenaries to fight their battles for them against the T'linkit Indians
+of this region; and, while encamped here, they partook of a large number
+of mussels, which proved poisonous, killing some, and putting many on
+the sick list for that particular campaign. In some of the very
+contracted places the tides run with great velocity; but, by taking
+advantage of the proper times (which the nearness of Killisnoo on one
+side and Sitka on the other makes easy) and a more thorough knowledge of
+the few impediments, the dangers to navigation here are now about <i>nil</i>.
+Once through Peril Straits, we can look out on the Pacific Ocean through
+Salisbury Sound for a few minutes before turning southward through a
+series of short straits and channels &ldquo;too numerous to mention;&rdquo; and
+then, after twenty to twenty-five miles of sailing, we come to Sitka,
+the capital of the Territory. It is most picturesquely located at the
+head of Sitka Sound, through which, looking in a southwest direction,
+the Pacific Ocean is plainly visible. Looking in this way, its bay seems
+full of pretty little islets, sprinkled all over it, that are almost
+invisible as seen from the ocean when approaching, so densely are they
+covered with timber, and so exactly like the timbered hills of the
+mainland, against which they are thrown. The steamer, after winding its
+way through a tortuous channel, finally brings to at a commodious wharf,
+with the city before you, which is in strange contrast with the wild,
+rugged scenery through which the tourist has been sailing. To our left,
+as we pass on to the wharf, is the Indian village of the Sitkas, one of
+the largest among the islands of the inland passage. To our front and
+right stretch the white settlements of the town. At the large Indian
+village, which is near&mdash;or, really, part of&mdash;Sitka, there are estimated
+to gather fully a thousand Indians in the winter time, the summer
+finding them partially dispersed over a greater area to gain their
+sustenance. These houses are like those described as being near
+Wrangell. In one way they have somewhat patterned after white men, in
+partitioning off the ends and sides of these large rooms into sleeping
+apartments by canvas and cloth drapery. It is said that the most
+fiendish ceremonies and diabolical cruelties were practiced at their
+&ldquo;house-warmings,&rdquo; so to speak. Before the white men put a stop to these
+ceremonies, a slave was killed, with the greatest cruelties, under each
+of the corner uprights; and, as a house could not have less than four of
+these, and sometimes had more, by its irregularities, one may
+contemplate the suffering with which a large village like that at Sitka
+has been baptized.</p>
+
+<p>In the town proper the Greek Church is the most conspicuous and
+interesting object to the tourist, and especially those who have never
+seen one of this religion. It is built in the form of a Greek cross, in
+plan, and is surmounted by an Oriental dome over the centre, which has
+been painted an emerald green color. One wing is used as a chapel, and
+contains, besides a curious font, an exquisite painting of the Virgin
+and Child, copied from the celebrated picture at Moscow. All the drapery
+is of silver, and the halo of gold; so, of the painting itself, nothing
+is seen but the faces and background. The chancel, which is raised above
+the body of the church, is approached by three broad steps leading to
+four doors, two of which are handsomely carved and richly gilded, and
+contain four oval and two square <i>bas reliefs</i>. Above is a large picture
+of the Last Supper, covered, like that of the Madonna, with silver, as
+are two others, one on each side of the altar. Across the threshold of
+these doors no woman may set her foot, and across the inner ones to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span>
+innermost sanctuary none but the priest himself, or his superiors in the
+general Greek Church, or the white Czar, can enter. The doors, however,
+usually stand open; and the priest in residence, Father Metropaulski, is
+exceedingly courteous to visitors, showing them the costly and
+magnificent vestments and the bishop's crown, almost covered with pearls
+and amethysts. The ornaments and the candelabra are all of silver, the
+walls are hung with portraits of princes and prelates, and the general
+effect is rich in the extreme.</p>
+
+<p>Next to the church in interest&mdash;with some visitors, probably, ranking
+before it&mdash;is the old Muscovite castle on the hill. Here, in days gone
+by, the stern Romanoff ruled this land, and Baron Wrangell, one of
+Russia's many celebrated Polar explorers, held sway. It is said that it
+has been twice destroyed, once by fire and then by an earthquake, but
+was again erected with such staunch belongings that it will probably
+stand for ages much as it is to-day. It is now used as an office for
+United States Government officials, and it has a ball-room and theatre,
+with the same old brass chandeliers and huge bronze hinges that adorned
+it in its glory. The whole building has a semi-deserted and melancholy
+appearance; but it is of exceeding interest, speaking to us as it does
+of a grander history, when Sitka was the metropolis of the Pacific coast
+of North America, and it was the centre from which such power emanated.
+To sentimental tourists I will relate a tradition that has been
+published concerning the stern old castle; and, whether it fits the
+truth or not, it fits the sombre surroundings of the ancient pile. It
+runs, that, when Baron Romanoff was governor, he had living with him an
+orphan niece and ward, who, like all orphan nieces in feudal castles,
+especially those who figure in tradition, was very beautiful. But, when
+the baron commanded her to marry a beautiful prince, who was a guest at
+the castle, she refused, having given her heart to a handsome young
+lieutenant of the household. The old baron, who, like the rest of his
+race in traditional accounts, was an accomplished diplomate, feigning an
+interest in the young lieutenant which he did not feel, sent him away on
+a short expedition, and in the mean time hurried on the preparations for
+the marriage of the unhappy girl to the prince. Deprived of the support
+of her lover's counsels and presence, she yielded to the threats of her
+uncle, and the ceremony was solemnized. Half an hour after the marriage,
+while the rejoicing and the gayety were at their height, the young
+lieutenant strode into the ball-room, his travel-stained dress and
+haggard appearance contrasting strangely with the glittering costumes
+and gay faces of the revelers; and, during the silence which followed
+his ominous appearance, he stepped up to the hapless girl, and took her
+hand. After gazing for a few moments on the ring the prince had placed
+there, he, without a word, and before any one could interfere, drew a
+dagger from his belt, and stabbed her to the heart. In the wild
+confusion that followed, he escaped from the castle; and, overcome with
+grief, unable to live without the one he so fondly loved, yet ruthlessly
+murdered, he threw himself into the sea. And now her spirit is seen on
+the anniversary of her wedding night, her slender form robed in heavy
+silk brocade, pressing her hands on the wound in her heart, the tears
+streaming from her eyes. Sometimes, before a severe storm, she makes her
+appearance in the little tower at the top of the building once used as a
+lighthouse. There she burns a light until dawn for the spirit of her
+lover at sea.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/img_075_h.jpg">
+     <img src="images/img_075.jpg" width="400" height="273"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+   </a>
+<p class="caption">CHANCEL OF THE GREEK CHURCH, SITKA.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Almost directly west from Sitka, about fifteen miles distant, is Mount<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span>
+Edgecumbe, so named by Cook, it having previously been called Mount San
+Jacinto by Bodega in 1775, and Mount St. Hyacinth again by La Perouse.
+Tchirikov, before all others, I believe, got it chronicled as Mount St.
+Lazarus; and it looked as if it would go through the whole calendar of
+the saints, and their different national changes, if it had not gotten
+pretty firmly rooted as Mount Edgecumbe. It is nearly 3,000 feet above
+the level of the sea, and looks like a peak of 5,000 feet cut off by a
+huge shaving plane at its present height. This truncated apex is a
+crater, said to be, by those who have visited it, some 2,000 feet in
+diameter by one-tenth as deep. In the early and middle summer time, the
+snow from its table-like crown has partially disappeared, and the bright
+red volcanic rock projects in radiating ridges from the white covering
+that is disappearing, making a most beautiful crest to a mountain
+already picturesque by its singular isolation. When in this condition,
+with the western setting sun directly over it, and its golden beams
+radiating upward, and the royal red ridges radiating downward, both
+thrown against their background of blue sky and water and white snow, it
+makes a superb picture that the brush of a Turner could hardly copy, let
+alone a feeble pen describe.</p>
+
+<p>Lieutenant C. E. S. Wood, who visited this portion of Alaska in 1877,
+and gave a graphic description of his travels in the <i>Century Magazine</i>
+of July, 1882, gives therein the following interesting Indian legend
+concerning Mount Edgecumbe:</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;One drowsy eve we saw the peak of Edgecumbe for the last time. The
+great truncated cone caught the hues of the sunset, and we could note
+the gloom gathering deeper and deeper in the hollow of the crater. Our
+Indians were stolidly smoking the tobacco we had given them, and were
+resting after the labors of the day with bovine contentment.
+Tah-ah-nah-kléck related to us the T'linkit legend of Edgecumbe.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;A long time ago the earth sank beneath the water, and the water rose
+and covered the highest places, so that no man could live. It rained so
+hard that it was as if the sea fell from the sky. All was black, and it
+became so dark, that no man knew another. Then a few people ran here and
+there and made a raft of cedar logs; but nothing could stand against the
+white waves, and the raft was broken in two.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;On one part floated the ancestors of the T'linkits; on the other, the
+parents of all other nations. The waters tore them apart, and they never
+saw each other again. Now their children are all different, and do not
+understand each other. In the black tempest, Chethl was torn from his
+sister Ah-gish-áhn-ahkon [The-woman-who-supports-the-earth], Chethl
+[symbolized in the osprey] called aloud to her, &lsquo;You will never see me
+again; but you will hear my voice forever!&rsquo; Then he became an enormous
+bird, and flew to southwest, till no eye could follow him.
+Ah-gish-áhn-ahkon climbed above the waters, and reached the summit of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>
+Edgecumbe. The mountain opened, and received her into the bosom of the
+earth. That hole [the crater] is where she went down. Ever since that
+time she has held the earth above the water. The earth is shaped like
+the back of a turtle, and rests on a pillar; Ah-gish-áhn-ahkon holds the
+pillar. Evil spirits that wish to destroy mankind seek to overthrow her
+and drive her away. The terrible battles are long and fierce in the
+lower darkness. Often the pillar rocks and sways in the struggle, and
+the earth trembles and seems like to fall; but Ah-gish-áhn-ahkon is good
+and strong, so the earth is safe. Chethl lives in the bird
+Kunna-Káht-eth; his nest is in the top of the mountain, in the hole
+through which his sister disappeared.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;He carries whales in his claws to this eyrie, and there devours them.
+He swoops from his hiding-place, and rides on the edge of the coming
+storm. The roaring of the tempest is his voice calling to his sister. He
+claps his wings in the peals of thunder, and its rumbling is the
+rustling of his pinions. The lightning is the flashing of his eyes.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Looking inland are the glacier-clad summits of the interior mountains,
+Vostovia predominating, where few people, even among the Indians of the
+country, have ever been. Taking all its surroundings, it may be well
+said, as has been written, that Sitka Bay rivals in scenic beauty its
+nearest counterpart, the far-famed Bay of Naples. Near Sitka comes in a
+beautiful mountain stream called the Indian river. A most picturesque
+road leads out to this rambling brook, and a less frequented trail winds
+up its valley; but, if the steamer stops long enough to warrant the
+tramp, no one should fail to stroll along its two or three miles of
+winding way, embowered in absolutely tropical foliage, so dense and deep
+is it. It is the only road worthy of the name in Alaska; and, if one
+wends his way through it, and then combines his information acquired
+thereby with a view of the Alpine country of this part of the Territory,
+he will plainly comprehend why there are no more roads than this
+particular one, and feel willing to give full credit to its makers. It
+is near the half-way point of the journey, also; and this warrants a
+little inshore exercise that can be had at no other stopping place so
+well.</p>
+
+<p>About ten or eleven miles south of Sitka, on the mainland, but protected
+seaward by a breakwater of (Necker) islands, is Hot Springs Bay, on
+whose shores are springs which give it its name. About six or seven
+years before we obtained the Territory, the Russian American Fur
+Company, whose headquarters were at Sitka (since Baron Wrangell
+established them there in 1832), built a hospital at Hot Springs, which
+was said to have had wonderful remedial powers in skin and rheumatic
+diseases; but, for some reasons, the place has been abandoned (probably
+the lack of government by the United States), and the buildings are
+reported to be in a state of decay. The Indians used the waters for
+illness, and thus called the attention of the Russians thereto. The
+temperature of the water is from 120 to 125 degrees, and it contains a
+number of elements held in solution, as sulphur, chlorine, manganese,
+sodium and iron, besides combinations of these, and with other elements.
+It is worth a visit to see these hot springs, with the thermometer
+soaring up above the hundreds; for, in a day or two, by way of strange
+contrast, you will be among glaciers and icebergs towering as far in
+feet above your head.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/img_078_h.jpg">
+     <img src="images/img_078.jpg" width="400" height="268"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+   </a>
+<p class="caption">ALASKA'S THOUSAND ISLANDS, AS SEEN FROM SITKA.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>The only way out of Sitka harbor, without putting to sea, is back<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>
+through Peril Straits again; and, passing back, one can hardly realize
+that it is the same waterway, so radically different are the views
+presented. In the harbor of Sitka is Japonskoi (Japanese) Island, which
+may be identified by the captain's chart of the harbor, and which has a
+curious history. Here, about eighty years ago, an old Japanese junk,
+that had drifted across the sea on the Kuro-Siwo, or Japanese current,
+was stranded, and the Russians kindly cared for the castaway sailors who
+had survived the dreadful drift, and returned them to their country,
+after an experience that is seldom equaled, even in the romantic
+accounts of maritime misfortunes. The drifting of Japanese junks, and
+those of adjacent countries, is not so infrequent as one would suppose,
+and this fact might set the reflective man to thinking as to the
+ethnical possibilities accruing therefrom, the settlement of North
+America, etc.</p>
+
+<p>This Kuro-Siwo, or Japanese current,&mdash;sometimes called black current, or
+Japanese black current, from its hue,&mdash;corresponds in many ways to the
+Gulf Stream of the Atlantic: like it, its waters are warmed in the
+equatorial regions under a vertical sun; and, like it, a great portion
+of these waters are carried northward in its flow, and their heat poured
+upon the eastern shores of its ocean, till their climate is phenomenally
+temperate compared with the western shores in the same parallels. Sitka
+is said to have, as a result of facing this current, a mean winter
+temperature of a point half way between Baltimore and Washington, or
+slightly milder than the winter temperature of Baltimore. It is said to
+be no unusual thing to suffer from an ice famine in Sitka. A short way
+inland the winters are not so temperate, more snow falling at that
+season, while rain characterizes the coast face; but during the summer,
+or excursion season, these rains are not unpleasantly frequent. I take
+the following from a letter from Sitka, and published in the San
+Francisco <i>Bulletin</i> of January 9, 1882, before this country was really
+opened to excursionists, although the subject was being discussed, so
+much had been heard of this wonderland:</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The climate, as shown by the meteorological data collected by the
+signal service observers, is not of such a disagreeable character as
+some would have us believe. The scientific data collected and tabulated
+for the year 1881, as shown by the records at Sitka, Chilkoot, Juneau
+and Killisnoo, disprove most emphatically the seemingly malicious
+assertions in reference to its climate.</p>
+
+<table id="p79" summary="Temperatures">
+  <tr>
+    <td class="one">&nbsp;</td>
+    <td class="two">April.</td>
+    <td class="two">May.</td>
+    <td class="two">June.</td>
+    <td class="two">July.</td>
+    <td class="two">Aug.</td>
+    <td class="two">Sept.</td>
+    <td class="two">Oct.</td>
+    <td class="two">Nov.</td>
+    <td class="two">Dec.</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="three">Mean Temperature</td>
+    <td class="four">42.5</td>
+    <td class="four">45.4</td>
+    <td class="four">51.2</td>
+    <td class="four">54.2</td>
+    <td class="four">56.7</td>
+    <td class="four"><span style="margin-right: 0.5em;">54.</span></td>
+    <td class="four">46.3</td>
+    <td class="four">41.8</td>
+    <td class="four">34.8</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="three">Max. Temperature</td>
+    <td class="four">56.5</td>
+    <td class="four"><span style="margin-right: 0.5em;">61.</span></td>
+    <td class="four"><span style="margin-right: 0.5em;">65.</span></td>
+    <td class="four"><span style="margin-right: 0.5em;">67.</span></td>
+    <td class="four"><span style="margin-right: 0.5em;">79.</span></td>
+    <td class="four">63.8</td>
+    <td class="four">57.8</td>
+    <td class="four">52.8</td>
+    <td class="four">44.9</td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="three">Min. Temperature</td>
+    <td class="four"><span style="margin-right: 0.5em;">31.</span></td>
+    <td class="four"><span style="margin-right: 0.5em;">31.</span></td>
+    <td class="four"><span style="margin-right: 0.5em;">41.</span></td>
+    <td class="four"><span style="margin-right: 0.5em;">43.</span></td>
+    <td class="four">43.9</td>
+    <td class="four">40.5</td>
+    <td class="four"><span style="margin-right: 0.5em;">32.</span></td>
+    <td class="four">22.5</td>
+    <td class="four"><span style="margin-right: 0.5em;">14.</span></td>
+  </tr>
+  <tr>
+    <td class="five">Total rainfall, inches</td>
+    <td class="six"><span style="margin-left: 1em;">4.21</span></td>
+    <td class="six"><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">3.1</span></td>
+    <td class="six"><span style="margin-left: 1em;">1.54</span></td>
+    <td class="six"><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">4.4</span></td>
+    <td class="six"><span style="margin-left: 1em;">1.98</span></td>
+    <td class="six"><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">12.11</span></td>
+    <td class="six"><span style="margin-left: 1em;">5.04</span></td>
+    <td class="six">13.5</td>
+    <td class="six"><span style="margin-left: 0.5em;">10.52</span></td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>&ldquo;A study of the above data, combined with an actual experience, compels<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span>
+the writer to admit that the summer weather of Southeastern Alaska is
+the most delightful that can be enjoyed throughout the length and
+breadth of this vast territory, and throws in the shade all the boasted
+claims of many, if not most, of the famous summer resorts in the
+&lsquo;States.&rsquo; There were only two days during the long, pleasant summer,
+that were rendered disagreeable by that feeling of oppressiveness caused
+by heat. The nights were cool and pleasant; the days always warm enough
+for open windows, through which the invigorating breezes from the
+snow-capped mountains or the broad Pacific, would blow at will; the
+long, bright days, when the sun disappeared only for a few hours, when
+twilight, after sunset, seemed to mingle with the rays of early dawn;
+the nights beautified by the dancing beams of the <i>aurora borealis</i>, and
+the myriad stars that seemed as if hung on invisible threads in the deep
+blue firmament. * * In regard to the summer weather, I reiterate that no
+one could possibly choose a more delightful place in which to spend a
+portion of the heated term than in making a trip through this portion of
+the Territory.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;In Alaska, in midsummer,&rdquo; according to a late letter, &ldquo;the almost
+continuous light of day shines upon bright green slopes, shaded here and
+there with dark timber belts, rising up from the deep blue waters. An
+endless variety of bright-hued flowers, the hum of insects, and
+melodious song of birds, * * * would cause a stranger, suddenly
+translated there, to think himself in any country but Alaska.&rdquo;&mdash;<i>Chicago
+Herald, 1885.</i></p>
+
+<p>When we are some five or six miles back on our northward way to Peril
+Straits, a pretty little bay, on Baronoff Island, is pointed out to us,
+on our starboard (by this time all the passengers are able seamen) side,
+called Old Harbor, or Starri-Gaven, in Russian. It was there that
+Baronoff built his first fort, called the Archangel Gabriel, in 1799,
+which, after a number of rapidly recurring vicissitudes, was
+annihilated, and its garrison massacred, by the Sitka Indians, three
+years later. Baronoff re-established his power at the present site of
+Sitka, calling the new place Archangel Michael,&mdash;Archangel Gabriel
+having failed in his duty as a protector; and from this name it was
+called New Archangel, which changed to Sitka with the change of flags in
+1867, although American maps had dubbed it Sitka before this.</p>
+
+<p>Once more in Chatham Strait, with the ship's head pointed northward, we
+are on our way to the northernmost recesses of the inland passage, and
+with the greatest wonders of our wonderland ahead of us. At its northern
+end, Chatham Strait divides into two narrow waterways, Icy Strait
+leading off to the west, to the land and waters of glaciers and
+icebergs, while Lynn Canal continues broad Chatham to the north. Lynn
+Canal is a double-headed inlet, the western arm at its head being called
+the Chilkat Inlet, and the eastern arm the Chilkoot Inlet, after two
+tribes of T'linkit Indians living on these respective channels. It is a
+beautiful sheet of water, more Alpine in character than any yet entered.
+Glaciers of blue and emerald ice can be seen almost everywhere, peeping
+from underneath the snow-capped mountains and ranges that closely<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span>
+enclose this well-protected canal, and render it picturesque in the
+extreme. Here is the Eagle Glacier on the right, and dozens that have
+never been named, and a most massive one (Davison's) on our left, just
+as we enter Chilkat Inlet. At the head of Chilkat Inlet is Pyramid
+Harbor, so named after an island of pyramidal profile in its waters. It
+marks the highest point you will probably reach in the inland passage,
+unless Chilkoot Inlet is entered, which is occasionally done.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/img_081_h.jpg">
+     <img src="images/img_081.jpg" width="300" height="243"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+   </a>
+<p class="caption">CHILKAT BLANKET.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>We are now in the land of the Chilkats, one of the most aggressive and
+arrogant, yet withal industrious and wealthy, Indian tribes of the
+T'linkits. It should be remembered that all the Alaskan Indians of the
+inland passage (except the Hy-dahs of Dixon Entrance) are bound together
+by a common language, called the T'linkit; but having so little else in
+sympathy that the sub-tribes often war against each other, these
+sub-tribes having separate chiefs, medicine men and countries, in fact,
+and being known by different names. We have already spoken of the
+Stickeens, Kootznahoos, Sitkas, etc.; and by these names they are known
+among the whites of this portion of the Territory, the title T'linkit
+being seldom heard. At the salmon cannery, on the west shore, a small
+but recently built village of Chilkats is clustered; but, to see them in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span>
+&ldquo;all their glory,&rdquo; the Chilkat river should be ascended to their
+principal village of Klukwan.</p>
+
+<p>Of this country,&mdash;the Chilkat and Chilkoot,&mdash;Mrs. Eugene S. Willard, the
+wife of the missionary presiding at Haines Mission, in Chilkoot Inlet,
+and who has resided here a number of years, writes in the <i>Century
+Magazine</i>, of October, 1885:</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;From Portage Bay (of Chilkoot Inlet) west to the Chilkat river and
+southward to the point, lies the largest tract of arable land, so far as
+my knowledge goes, in Southeastern Alaska, while the climate does not
+differ greatly from that of Pennsylvania * * * Here summer reaches
+perfection, never sultry, rarely chilling. * * * In May the world and
+the sun wake up together. In his new zeal, we find old Sol up before us
+at 2:15 A. M., and he urges us on until 9:45 at night. Even then the
+light is only turned down; for the darkest hour is like early summer
+twilight, not too dark for reading.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;From our front door to the pebbly beach below, the wild sweet pea runs
+rampant; while under and in and through it spring the luxuriant phlox,
+Indian rice, the white-blossomed &lsquo;yun-ate,&rsquo; and wild roses which make
+redolent every breath from the bay. Passing out the back door, a few
+steps lead us into the dense pine woods, whose solitudes are peopled
+with great bears, and owls, and&mdash;T'linkit ghosts! while eagles and
+ravens soar without number. On one tree alone we counted thirty bald
+eagles. These trees are heavily draped with moss, hanging in rich
+festoons from every limb; and into the rich carpeting underneath, one's
+foot may sink for inches. Here the ferns reach mammoth size, though many
+of fairy daintiness are found among the moss; and the devil's walking
+stick stands in royal beauty at every turn, with its broad, graceful
+leaves, and waxen, red berries.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Out again into the sunshine, and we discover meadows of grass and
+clover, through which run bright little streams, grown over with
+willows, just as at home. And here and there are clumps of trees, so
+like the peach and apple, that a lump comes into your throat. But you
+lift your eyes, and there beyond is the broad shining of the river, and
+above it the ever-present, dream-dispelling peaks of snow, with their
+blue ice sliding down and down. * *</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The Chilkat people long ago gained for themselves the reputation of
+being the most fierce and warlike tribe in the Archipelago. Certain it
+is, that, between themselves and southern Hy-dah, there is not another
+which can compare with them in strength, either as to numbers,
+intelligence, physical perfection, or wealth. * * * The children always
+belong to their mother, and are of her to-tem. This to-temic relation is
+considered closer than that of blood. If the father's and mother's
+tribes be at war, the children must take the maternal side, even if
+against their father. * * * In very rare cases a woman has two husbands;
+oftener we find a man with two wives, even three; but more frequently
+met than either is the consecutive wife.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The Chilkats are comparatively an industrious people. On the mainland<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span>
+we have none of the deer which so densely populate the islands, owing,
+it is said, to the presence of bears and wolves; but we have the white
+mountain goat, which, while it is lamb, is delicious meat. From its
+black horns the finest carved spoons are made, and its pelt, when washed
+and combed, forms a necessary part of the Indian's bedding and household
+furniture. The combings are made by the women into rolls similar to
+those made by machinery at home. Then, with a great basket of these
+white rolls on one side, and a basket on the other to receive the yarn,
+a woman sits on the floor, and, on her bared knee, with her palm, rolls
+it into cord. This they dye in most brilliant colors made of roots,
+grasses and moss, and of different kinds of bark.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/img_083_h.jpg">
+     <img src="images/img_083.jpg" width="400" height="266"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+   </a>
+<p class="caption">T'LINKET WAR CANOE.</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>&ldquo;It is of this yarn that the famous Chilkat dancing-blanket is made.
+This is done by the women with great nicety and care. The warp, all
+white, is hung from a handsomely carved upright frame. Into it the
+bright colors are wrought by means of ivory shuttles. The work is
+protected during the tedious course of its manufacture by a covering
+resembling oiled silk, made from the dressed intestines of the bear.
+Bright striped stockings of this yarn are also knitted on little needles
+whittled from wood.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>An illustration of a dancing-blanket is given on page <a href="#Page_81">81</a>. These are made
+by several of the T'linkit tribes; but the Chilkats so predominate in
+the manufacture, both in numbers and excellence, that you seldom hear<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span>
+them mentioned in Alaska, except as Chilkat blankets. Nearly all of the
+T'linkit tribes, as the tourist will have seen by this time, spend most
+of their out-of-door time in the water, in their canoes; and this
+constant semi-aquatic life has told on their physical development to the
+extent of giving them very dwarfed and illy developed lower limbs,
+although the trunk and arms are well developed. When walking, they seem
+to shamble along more like an aquatic fowl on land than a human being.
+The Chilkats are noticeable exceptions. Although their country is much
+more mountainous in appearance than others lower down, yet here are some
+of the most accessible of the few mountain passes by which the interior,
+a rich fur-bearing district, can be gained. The Chilkats have yearly
+taken trading goods from the white men, lashed them into packs of about
+a hundred pounds, and carried them on their backs through these
+glacier-clad passes, and traded them for furs, bringing them out in the
+same way. They monopolized the trade by the simple process of
+prohibiting the interior Indians from coming to the sea-coast to trade.
+The Chilkats therefore are probably the richest tribe of Indians in the
+Northwest, the chief having two houses full of blankets, their standard
+of value, at the village of Kluk-wan.</p>
+
+<p>To those who find their greatest pleasure in a rough, out-of-door life,
+let them leave the steamer at this point, hire three or four Indians to
+carry their company effects on their backs, and make an Alpine journey
+to the head of the Yukon river, where lakes aggregating 150 miles in
+length can be passed over in a canoe. The route leads up the Dayay
+river, over the Perrier Pass in the Kotusk Mountains. The trip could be
+made between visiting steamers, and I will guarantee the persons will
+come back with more muscle than they took in.</p>
+
+<p>Bidding good-bye to the picturesque country of the Chilkats, the
+steamer's head is turned south again; and, when just about ready to
+leave Lynn Canal, we entered an intricate series of channels bearing
+eastward, and which bring us to the great mining town of Juneau, where
+many Alaskan hopes are centred. This is what a correspondent of the
+Chicago <i>Times</i>, under date of February 23, 1885, says of this Alaskan
+town and its curious history:</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The centre from which radiates whatever of excitement and interest
+there is in Alaskan mines is Douglas Island. The history of the
+discovery of ore near this island, which eventually led to the location
+of the present much-talked-of property, is similar to that attending the
+finding of most of the large mines in the West. It seems that some
+half-dozen years ago two needy and seedy prospectors named Juneau and
+Harris arrived at an Indian village that still remains visible on the
+shore across the bay from Douglas Island, in search of ore. They
+prospected the country as thoroughly as they could, with but little
+success, and were about to return home when an Indian said that he knew
+where gold existed, and that he would reveal the place for a certain sum
+of money. Hardly believing, but yet curious, Harris and Juneau accepted
+the offer, and, with their guide, set out on a pilgrimage into the
+interior to a spot now known as &lsquo;The Basin.&rsquo; After a long tramp through
+the forests, and up a deep valley, the Indian showed them a place where<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span>
+there were nuggets of free gold and dirt, which, when panned, yielded a
+handsome return. Claims were immediately staked out, and the adventurers
+began their work in earnest. Later, the fact of the discovery became
+known, and other miners entered the valley, and the region gained no
+little celebrity, and became the scene of much animation. Four years the
+work progressed, and a town, which to-day is of respectable size and
+great expectations, was founded, and christened Juneau.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The Douglas Island mine is located within fifty yards of the waters of
+Juneau Bay, and was discovered by a man named Treadwell, who sold his
+claim a year or two ago to a San Francisco company. The new owners set
+up a fine stamp-mill to begin with, and made thorough tests of the ore.
+It is a 120-stamp mill, the largest in the world, and the company has
+refused, it is said, $16,000,000 for the mine.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/img_085_h.jpg">
+     <img src="images/img_085.jpg" width="400" height="197"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+   </a>
+<p class="caption">T'LINKET CARVED SPOONS.<br />
+(Made from the Horns of Mountain Goats.)</p>
+</div>
+
+<p>Since the above was written, and as late as last August, reports from
+there gave the astonishing showing of enough ore in sight to keep the
+120-stamp mill &ldquo;running for a <ins title="life-time">lifetime</ins>.&rdquo; The uninitiated in mining
+mills, ledges and lodes, may grasp the value of the mine by saying its
+output for a twenty-days run of the stamp-mill was $100,000 in gold, or
+at the rate of $1,800,000 per year; which, estimating its value on an
+income of five per cent. annually, would make the mine worth
+$36,000,000, or just five times the amount we paid for the whole
+Territory. There is no doubt whatever in the minds of many experts, that
+there are a number of such places as the Treadwell mine yet to be found,
+the great difficulty of prospecting in the dense, deep mass of fallen
+timber covered with wet moss and thick underbrush on the steepest
+mountain sides, coupled with the little probability of the Treadwell
+being an isolated case in such a uniformly Alpine country, amply
+justifying them in coming to such conclusions. A visit to the mines is
+one the tourists can readily make. At Juneau we find the Takoo band of
+T'linkits in a village near by, where nearly all that has been said
+regarding Alaskan Indians may be here repeated. The very curious spoons<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span>
+they carve from the horns of the mountain goat, which are figured on
+page <a href="#Page_85">85</a>, and beautifully woven mats, and the baskets shown on page <a href="#Page_68">68</a>,
+may be purchased; and, in leaving a few pieces of silver among them for
+their own handiwork, little as it is that we have thus done for them, it
+is far more than the extremists of either side in the Indian question
+have done, those who would exterminate, or those who would
+sentimentalize in print over their wrongs.</p>
+
+<p>Bidding the mining metropolis of Alaska farewell, our bowsprit is once
+more pointed for the Pacific Sea; but, before we reach it, or get quite
+to it, we turn northward and enter Glacier Bay, its name signifying its
+main attractions. Glaciers, which are great rivers or sheets of ice made
+from compacted snows, are functions as much of altitude as of high
+latitude; and both unite here, with an air charged with moisture from
+the warm Pacific waters, to make the grand glaciers which are to be seen
+in this bay. In the immediate vicinity are the Mount St. Elias Alps, a
+snowy range which culminates in the well-known peak from which it
+derives its name; and, radiating from their flanks, come down these
+rivers of ice, reaching the sea-level in the greatest perfection in
+Glacier Bay, the largest one of the grand group being the Muir Glacier,
+after Professor John Muir, the scientist, of California, who is said to
+be the first to discover it. I will give the language of the man who
+claims to be the second to arrive upon the scene, and who gives his
+account in the St. Louis <i>Globe-Democrat</i>, writing from Glacier Bay,
+July 14, 1883:</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;When Dick Willoughby told of the great glacier, thirty miles up the
+bay, the thud of whose falling ice could be heard and felt at his house,
+the captain of the &lsquo;Idaho&rsquo; said he would go there, and took this Dick
+Willoughby along to find the place and prove the tale. Away we went
+coursing up Glacier Bay, a fleet of 112 little icebergs gayly sailing
+out to meet us as we left our anchorage the next morning. Entering into
+these unknown and unsurveyed waters, the lead was cast through miles of
+bottomless channels; and, when the pilot neared a green and mountainous
+little island, he made me an unconditional present of the domain, and
+duly entered its bearings on the ship's log. For a summer resort my
+island possesses unusual advantages, and I hereby invite all suffering
+and perspiring St. Louis to come to that emerald spot in latitude 58
+degrees 29 minutes north, and longitude 135 degrees 52 minutes west from
+Greenwich, and enjoy the July temperature of 42 degrees, the whale
+fishing, the duck hunting, and a sight of the grandest glacier in the
+world.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;But one white man had ever visited the glacier before us, and he was
+the irrepressible geologist and scientist, John Muir, who started out in
+an Indian canoe, with a few blankets and some hard-tack, and spent days
+scrambling over the icy wastes. Feeling our way along carefully, we cast
+anchor beside a grounded iceberg, and the photographers were rowed off
+to a small island to take the view of the ship in the midst of that
+arctic scenery. Mount Crillon showed his hoary head to us in glimpses
+between the clouds; and then, rounding Willoughby Island, which the
+owner declares is solid marble of a quality to rival that of Pentelicus<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span>
+and Carrara, we saw the full front of the great Muir Glacier, where it
+dips down and breaks into the sea. At the first breathless glance at
+that glorious ice-world, all fancies and dreams were surpassed: the
+marvelous beauty of those shining, silvery pinnacles and spires, the
+deep blue buttresses, the arches and aisles of that fretted front,
+struck one with awe. In all Switzerland there is nothing comparable to
+these Alaskan glaciers, where the frozen wastes rise straight from the
+sea, and a steamer can go up within an eighth of a mile, and cruise
+beside them. Add to the picture of high mountains and snowy glaciers a
+sapphire bay scattered over with glittering little icebergs, and nature
+can supply nothing more to stir one's soul, to rouse the fancy and
+imagination, and enchant the senses. The vastness of this Muir Glacier
+is enough alone to overpower one with a sense of the might and strength
+of these forces of nature. Dry figures can give one little idea of the
+great, desolate stretches of gray ice and snow that slope out of sight
+behind the jutting mountains, and the tumbled and broken front forced
+down to and into the sea. Although not half of the glacier has been
+explored, it is said to extend back 40 miles.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;What we could know accurately was, that the front of the glacier was
+two miles across, and that the ice-wall rose 500 and 1,000 feet from the
+water. The lead cast at the point nearest to the icy front gave eighty
+fathoms, or 240 feet, of water; and, in the midst of those deep
+soundings, icebergs filled with boulders lay grounded with forty feet of
+their summits visible above water. At very low tide, there is a
+continual crash of falling ice; and, for the half-day we spent beside
+this glacier, there was a roar as of artillery every few minutes, when
+tons of ice would go thundering down into the water. After the prosaic
+matter of lunch had been settled, and we had watched the
+practical-minded steward order his men down on the iceberg to cut off a
+week's supply with their axes, we embarked in the life-boats, and landed
+in a ravine beside the glacier. * * * We wandered at will over the
+seamed and ragged surface, the ice cracked under our feet with a
+pleasant <ins title="mid-winter">midwinter</ins> sound, and the wind blew keenly from over those
+hundreds of miles of glacier fields; but there were the gurgle and
+hollow roar of the water heard in every deep crevasse, and trickling
+streams spread a silver network in the sunshine. Reluctantly we obeyed
+the steamer's whistle, and started back to the boats.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;A magnificent sunset flooded the sky that night, and filled every icy
+ravine with rose and orange lights. At the last view of the glacier, as
+we steamed away from it, the whole brow was glorified and transfigured
+with the fires of sunset; the blue and silvery pinnacles, the white and
+shining front floating dreamlike on a roseate and amber sea, and the
+range and circle of dull violet mountains lighting their glowing summits
+into a sky flecked with crimson and gold.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Since the above was written, in July, 1883, Glacier Bay has been one of
+the constant visiting points of the excursion steamer, and the
+experience of two or three years has shown the company how to exhibit
+this great panorama of nature to its patrons to the best advantage, and
+one will now be astonished at the ease with which the whole field may<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span>
+be surveyed in this the most wonderful bay on a line of steamboat
+travel.</p>
+
+<p>Our same correspondent speaks of an unknown passage down which they
+traveled in a way that will delight the heart of a Nimrod; but he should
+have added that almost half the inland passage is of that character so
+far as the general world is wiser concerning it, and half of this,
+again, may be wholly unknown, offering one of the finest fields for
+short explorations without any of the dangers and difficulties which so
+often beset greater undertakings, and rob them of all pleasure while
+they are being prosecuted, and only compensating the explorer in the
+results attained. Here is what he has to say:</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;For the twenty miles that we had come down the beautiful inlet, the
+coast survey charts showed an unbroken stretch of dry land. To the
+sportsman that unknown inlet is the dreamed-of paradise. When we went
+out in the small boats, salmon and flounders could be seen darting in
+schools through the water; and, as we approached the mouth of a creek,
+the freshening current was alive with the fish. The stewards who went to
+the shore with the tank-boats for fresh water, startled seven deer as
+they pushed their way to the foot of a cascade, and the young men caught
+thirteen great salmon with their own inexperienced spearing. The captain
+of the ship took his rifle, and was rowed away to shallow waters, where
+he shot a salmon, waded in, and threw it ashore. While wandering along
+after some huge bear tracks, he saw an eagle at work on his salmon, and
+another fine shot laid the bird of freedom low. When the captain
+returned to the ship he threw the eagle and salmon on deck, and, at the
+size of the former, every one marveled. The outspread wings measured the
+traditional six feet from tip to tip, and the beak, the claws, and the
+huge, stiff feathers were rapidly seized upon as trophies and souvenirs
+of the day. A broad double rainbow arched over us as we left the lovely
+niche between the mountains, and then we swept back to Icy Straits, and
+started out to the open ocean.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>But we will not confine ourselves to the description of one person in
+considering this the most fascinating and curious scene presented to the
+Alaskan tourists. Grand, even to the extent of being almost appalling,
+as are the Alaskan fjords, they are but the Yosemite or Colorado Parks,
+with navigable valleys, as they would appear greatly enlarged; much as
+we are awestruck at the feet of Mount St. Elias, it is but Tacoma or
+Shasta in grander proportions, and so on through the list of scenes we
+view: but in the glaciers we have no counterpart that can be viewed from
+a steamer's deck, unless the polar zones themselves be invaded; and
+here, in fact, we view the grandest sight to be seen in that dreary
+zone, without any of its many dangers. Says Professor Denman, of San
+Francisco, who has devoted much of his attention to glaciers, and
+especially these of Alaska, compared with which he pronounces those to
+be seen in Switzerland and other parts of Europe to be &ldquo;babies:&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+   <a href="images/img_089_h.jpg">
+     <img src="images/img_089.jpg" width="208" height="350"
+        alt="see caption"
+        title="see caption" />
+   </a>
+<p class="caption">SCENES AMONG THE ALASKAN GLACIERS. (From Photographs.)<br />
+<span class="text-align: center;">No. 1 (Top). A Near View of the Terminal Front of the Muir Glacier. No.
+2. Looking Seaward from the Surface of the Glacier. No 3. The Excursion
+Steamer at the Front of the Glacier. No. 4 (Bottom). On the Great Frozen
+Sea; a Near View of the Surface of the Glacier.</span></p>
+</div>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Muir Glacier is a spectacle whose grandeur can not be described,&mdash;a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span>
+vast frozen river of ice, ever slowly moving to the sea, and piling the
+enormous masses higher between the mountain banks, until their summit
+towers hundreds of feet in the air. Where the point of the glacier
+pushes out into and overhangs the water, vast fragments breaking apart
+every few moments of their own weight, and falling with a thundering
+crash into the sea, to float away as enormous icebergs, it affords a
+spectacle which can only be understood and appreciated by one who
+beholds it with his own eyes. From the summit of Muir Glacier no less
+than twenty-nine others are to be seen in various directions, all
+grinding and crowding their huge masses toward the sea, a sight which
+must certainly be one which few other scenes can equal.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Says a writer, Mr. Edward Roberts, in the <i>Overland Monthly</i>: &ldquo;I do not
+know how wide, nor how long, nor how deep Glacier Bay is. One does not
+think of figures and facts when sailing over its waters and enjoying the
+novel features. Flood Switzerland, and sail up some of its cañons toward
+Mont Blanc, and you will have there another Glacier Bay. But until the
+sea-waves wash the feet of that Swiss peak, and until one can sail past
+the glaciers of that country, there will never be found a companion bay
+to this of Alaska. Norway, with all its ruggedness, has nothing to equal
+it; and there is not a mountain in all the ranges of the Rockies which
+has the majestic gracefulness of Fairweather Peak, which looks down upon
+the bay.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;Imagine the view we had as we turned out of Lynn Canal and moved into
+the ice-strewn waters of the strange place. Above hung the sun, warm and
+clear, and lighting up the wide waste of waters till they glistened like
+flashing brilliants. Away to the left and right ran sombre forests, and
+long stretches of yellow-colored stone, and rocky cliffs that now ran
+out into the bay, and, again, rose high and straight from out it. No
+villages were in sight; no canoes dotted the waters; but all was
+desolate, neglected, still; and cakes of ice, white in the distance and
+highly colored nearer to, floated about our ship. And there, in the
+northwest, rising so high above the intervening hills that all its
+pinnacles, all its gorges, and its deep ravines of moving ice were
+visible, was Fairweather, loftiest, whitest, most delicately moulded
+peak of all the snowy crests in this north land. From a central spur,
+topping all its fellows, lesser heights helped form a range which
+stretched for miles across the country, and on whose massive shoulders
+lay a mantle of such pure whiteness that the sky above was bluer still
+by contrast, and the forests grew doubly dark and drear. All through the
+afternoon we sailed toward the glorious beacon, while the air grew
+colder every hour, and the ice cakes, hundreds of tons in weight, grew
+more numerous as the daylight began to wane. The glaciers of Glacier Bay
+are the largest in Alaska. Formed among the highest crags of the
+Fairweather range, they gradually deepen and widen as they near the sea,
+and end, at last, in massive cliffs of solid ice, often measuring three
+hundred feet high, and having a width of several miles. The surface of
+the glaciers is rough and billowy, resembling the waves of a troubled
+sea frozen into solid blocks of ice at the moment of their wildest
+gambols. Constantly pressed forward by the heavy blocks that gradually<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span>
+slide down the mountain ravines, the great frozen river keeps pressing
+seaward, until the action of the waves crumbles away gigantic cakes,
+that fall into the waters with a noise like the booming of cannon, and
+with a force that sends columns of water high into the air. The scene
+was one of arctic splendor,&mdash;white, ghostly and cheerless; while the
+light was that so often described by visitors to the polar
+sea,&mdash;uncertain, bluish, and strongly resembling a November twilight in
+New England, when the sky is overcast, the trees are bare, and the
+clouds are full of snow. Gaining at last a point barely three hundred
+yards from the glacier, the ship was stopped short. Before us rose the
+towers and solid walls, forming an embankment higher than our mast-head,
+and towering upward in dense masses against the leaden sky. Taken to
+Switzerland, the glacier of Alaska would cover that country three times
+over; for the frozen rivers of our largest purchase are not only fifty
+miles in length and three in width, but often twice that distance long
+and ten times that distance wide.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Lieutenant Wood, whom we have quoted before, in speaking of the T'linkit
+Indians in the ice, says: &ldquo;I noticed that, when journeying through the
+floating ice in good weather, our Indians would carefully avoid striking
+pieces of ice, lest they should offend the Ice Spirit. But, when the Ice
+Spirit beset us with peril, they did not hesitate to retaliate by
+banging his subjects. After picking our way through the ice for three
+days, we came upon a small, temporary camp of Hoonahs, who were seal
+hunting. We found little camps of a family or two scattered along both
+shores. One of the largest glaciers from Fairweather comes into the bay,
+and thus keeps its waters filled with the largest icebergs, even in the
+summer season, for which reason the bay is a favorite place for seal
+hunting. The seal is the native's meat, drink (the oil is like melted
+butter) and clothing. I went seal hunting to learn the art, which
+requires care and patience. The hunter, whether on an ice floe or in a
+canoe, never moves when the seal is aroused. When the animal is asleep,
+or has dived, the hunter darts forward. The spear has a barbed,
+detachable head, fastened to the shaft by a plaited line made from
+sinew. The line has attached to it a marking buoy, which is merely an
+inflated seal's bladder. The young seals are the victims of the T'linkit
+boys, who kill them with bow and arrow. These seal hunters used a little
+moss and seal oil and some driftwood for fuel. * * * After about forty
+miles' travel, we came to a small village of Asónques. They received us
+with great hospitality, and, as our canoe had been too small to carry
+any shelter, the head man gave me a bed in his own cabin. He had a great
+many wives, who busied themselves making me comfortable. The buckskin
+re-enforcement of my riding trousers excited childish wonder. I drew
+pictures of horses and men separate, and then of men mounted on horses.
+Their astonishment over the wonderful animal was greater than their
+delight at comprehending the utility of the trousers. The Alaskan women
+are childish and pleasant, yet quick-witted, and capable of heartless
+vindictiveness. Their authority in all matters is unquestioned. No
+bargain is made, no expedition set on foot, without first consulting<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span>
+the women. Their veto is never disregarded. I bought a silver-fox skin
+from Tsatate; but his wife made him return the articles of trade and
+recover the skin. In the same way I was perpetually being annoyed by
+having to undo bargains because his wife said &lsquo;<i>clekh</i>;&rsquo; that is, &lsquo;no.&rsquo;
+I hired a fellow to take me about thirty miles in his canoe, when my own
+crew was tired. He agreed. I paid him the tobacco, and we were about to
+start, when his wife came to the beach and stopped him. He quietly
+unloaded the canoe and handed me back the tobacco. The whole people are
+curious in the matter of trade. I was never sure that I had done with a
+bargain; for they claimed and exercised the right to undo a contract at
+any time, provided they could return the consideration received. This is
+their code among themselves. For example: I met, at the mouth of the
+Chilkat, a native trader who had been to Fort Simpson, about six hundred
+miles away, and, failing to get as much as he gave in the interior of
+Alaska for the skins, was now returning to the interior to find the
+first vender, and revoke the whole transaction.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;From the Asónque village I went, with a party of mountain goat hunters,
+up into the Mount St. Elias Alps back of Mount Fairweather,&mdash;that is, to
+the northeast of that mountain. For this trip our party made elaborate
+preparations. We donned belted shirts made of squirrel skins, fur
+head-dresses (generally conical), sealskin bootees, fitting very
+closely, and laced half way to the knee. We carried spears for
+alpenstocks, bows and arrows, raw-hide ropes, and one or two old Hudson
+Bay rifles. Ptarmigan were seen on the lower levels where the ground was
+bare. The goats kept well up toward the summit, amid the snow fields,
+and fed on the grass which sprouted along the edges of melting drifts.
+The animal is like a large, white goat, with long, coarse hair and a
+heavy coat of silky underfleece. We found a bear that, so far as I know,
+is peculiar to this country. It is of a beautiful bluish under-color,
+with the tips of the long hairs silvery white. The traders call it &lsquo;St.
+Elias silver bear.&rsquo; The skins are not uncommon.&rdquo; This little mountain
+trip of Lieutenant Wood's is especially spread before the attention of
+those who find in this form of exercise their best recreation from their
+regular duties.</p>
+
+<p>But, however much the tourists may want to dwell amidst the curious and
+marvelous scenes of Glacier Bay (and so great has been this demand that
+it is contemplated building a summer resort near by, that passengers may
+remain over one steamer), yet a time must come when we will have to bid
+good-bye to this polar part of our wonderland, and pass on to the next
+grand panorama in view. Southeastward out of Glacier Bay into Icy
+Straits, and we turn southwestward into Cross Sound, headed for the
+Pacific Ocean, and for the first time enter its limitless waters. Cross
+Sound was named by Vancouver, in 1778, in honor of the day on which it
+was discovered, and is about fifty-five miles long. It corresponds on
+the north to the Strait of Juan de Fuca on the south, these two
+waterways being the limiting channels north and south of the inland
+passage as it connects with the Pacific Ocean. As the Puget Sound
+projects much farther to the south from Fuca Strait into the mainland,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span>
+hemmed in by snowy peaks, so Lynn Canal, &ldquo;the Puget Sound of the North,&rdquo;
+continues the Sound of the Holy Cross far to the northward, embayed by
+glaciers, icebergs, and fields of snow.</p>
+
+<p>Recently, a trip out of Cross Sound, and northwestward about two hundred
+miles along the Pacific coast, has been occasionally added to the scenes
+of the inland passage, the new views presented being the Mount St. Elias
+Alps, directly facing the Pacific, for the distance noted, and
+containing within those limits the greatest number of high and imposing
+peaks to be found in any range in the world. The inland passage (by the
+use of Peril Straits to Sitka) became so perfect a river-like journey,
+absolutely free from sea-sickness, that no one felt like breaking this
+delightful trip by a sea journey, in any of its parts, however tempting
+the display might be. A trip or two, however, soon convinced the company
+that the mildness of the sea during the excursion season would warrant
+them in taking it as a part of the journey; and since, as I have said,
+it is taken occasionally, I think a short description of it would be
+appropriate here. Should the hotel in Glacier Bay, or near vicinity, be
+completed soon, it would be a good stopping-point for those who are sure
+to feel sea-sick with the least motion of the waves; while, to all
+others, the chances for good weather on the Fairweather Grounds, as they
+are not inappropriately termed, are very good, and, conjoined with the
+grand mountain scenery, should not be missed. Rounding Cape Spencer
+(<i>Punta de Villaluenga</i> of old Spanish charts), the northern point of
+the Pacific entrance to Cross Sound, the journey out to sea is
+commenced; a view about ten to fifteen miles off shore being the best,
+or on what is known to the fishermen who here used to pursue the right
+whale, &ldquo;the Fairweather Grounds,&rdquo; being so named, it is said, from
+Fairweather peak being in sight of most of it; and this, again, was
+named by the indomitable Cook, in 1778, as a monument to the fair
+weather he had cruising in sight of the grand old chain, a name which
+most tourists may congratulate themselves is well bestowed.</p>
+
+<p>Almost as soon as Cape Spencer is doubled, the southern spurs of the
+Mount St. Elias Alps burst into view, Crillon and Fairweather being
+prominent, and the latter easily recognized from our acquaintance with
+it from the waters of Glacier Bay. A trip of an hour or two takes us
+along a comparatively uninteresting coast, as viewed from &ldquo;square off
+our starboard beam;&rdquo; but all this time the mind is fixed by the grand
+Alpine views we have ahead of us that are slowly developing in plainer
+outline here and there as we speed toward them. Soon we are abreast of
+Icy Point: while, just beyond it, comes down a glacier to the ocean that
+gives about three miles of solid sea-wall of ice, while its source is
+lost in the heights covering the bases of the snowy peaks just behind.
+The high peak to the right, as we steam by the glacier front, is Mount
+La Perouse, named for one of the most daring of France's long list of
+explorers, and who lost his life in the interest of geographical
+science. His eyes rested on this range of Alpine peaks in 1786, just a
+century ago. Its highest point reaches well above 10,000 feet, and its<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span>
+sides are furrowed with glaciers, one of which is the ice-wall before
+our eyes, and which is generally known as the La Perouse Glacier. The
+highest peak of all, and on the left of this noble range, is Mount
+Crillon, named by La Perouse, in 1786, after the French Minister of the
+Marine; while between Crillon and La Perouse is Mount D'Agelet, the
+astronomer of that celebrated expedition. Crillon cleaves the air for
+16,000 feet above the sea on which we rest, and can be seen for over a
+hundred miles to sea. It, too, is surrounded with glaciers, in all
+directions from its crown. Crillon and La Perouse are about seven miles
+apart, nearly north and south of each other. About fifteen miles
+northwest from Crillon is Lituya Peak, 10,000 feet high; and the little
+bay opening that we pass, between the two, is the entrance to Lituya
+Bay, a sheet of water which La Perouse has pronounced as one of the most
+extraordinary in the world for grand scenery, with its glaciers and
+Alpine shores. Our steamer will not enter, however; for the passage is
+dangerous to even small boats,&mdash;one island bearing a monument to the
+officers and men of La Perouse's expedition, lost in the tidal wave
+which sweeps through the contracted passage like a breaker over a
+treacherous bar. Some ten or twelve miles northwest from Lituya Peak is
+Mount Fairweather, which bears abreast us after a little over an hour's
+run from Lituya Bay. It was named by Cook in 1778, and is generally
+considered to be a few hundred feet shorter than Mount Crillon. It is in
+every way, by its peculiar isolation from near ridges almost as high as
+itself, a much grander peak than Crillon, whose surroundings are not so
+good for a fine Alpine display. Fairweather, too, has its frozen rivers
+flowing down its sides; but none of them reach the sea, for a low,
+wooded country, some three or four miles in width, lies like a glacis at
+the seaward side of the St. Elias Alps, for a short distance along this
+part of the coast. The sombre, deep green forests add an impressive
+feature to the scene, however, lying between the dancing waves below and
+the white and blue glacier ice above. Rounding Cape Fairweather, the
+coast trends northward; and, as our bowsprit is pointed in the same
+direction, directly before us are seen immense glaciers reaching to the
+sea. From Cape Fairweather (abreast of Mount Fairweather) to Yakutat Bay
+(abreast of Mount Vancouver), no conspicuous peak rears its head above
+the grand mountain chain which for nearly a hundred miles lies between
+these two Alpine bastions; but nevertheless every hour reveals a new
+mountain of 5,000 to 8,000 feet in height, which, if placed anywhere
+else, would be held up with national or State pride as a grand
+acquisition. Here they are only dwarfed by grander peaks. The glacier
+which we are approaching from Cape Fairweather was named, by La Perouse,
+<i>La Grande Plateau</i>. It is a very low lying glacier, its grade as it
+fades away inland being very slight, more like a frozen river than the
+precipitous masses of ice which we have been used to seeing. Little is
+known of it, beyond the seaward aspect; but it is probably the largest
+glacier in Alaska, and the largest in the world, south of the polar
+regions themselves.</p>
+
+<p>Wherever these glaciers reach the sea, or connect with it by draining
+rivers,&mdash;and all large glaciers, at least, do this,&mdash;there is seen a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span>
+milky sediment floating in the water, which these &ldquo;mills of the gods&rdquo;
+grind from the mountain flanks in their slow but rasping course down
+their sides. Wherever they find calcareous strata to abrade, the water
+is almost milklike in hue for miles around. The glacier of the Grand
+Plateau is the last one facing the Pacific itself, as we move northward;
+but, where little bays cut back through the flat lands at the foot of
+the range, they may reach the glaciers which exist everywhere on the
+mountain sides.</p>
+
+<p>Off the Bay of Yakutat,&mdash;a name given it by the resident T'linkit
+tribes,&mdash;we have our best view of imperial St. Elias, the crowning peak
+of this noble range, and the highest mountain in all North
+America,&mdash;nearly 20,000 feet above the sea-level, and all of this vast
+height seemingly springing from the very sea itself. No good picture has
+ever been given of it, and no words have ever fully described it. All of
+the superlatives of our language have clothed so many lesser peaks that
+they fall flat and mentally tasteless in the presence of this Alpine
+Titan, rearing his crest among the clouds as if defying description.
+This want of words has been felt by so many who have visited the grand
+scenery of Alaska, who saw that, in illustrating a fjord here or a
+glacier there, they have but duplicated the word-painting of some other
+writer describing a puny antagonist, compared with their subject, that I
+will give it in the words of one who expresses the idea more closely
+than I. It is from the pen of a correspondent in the Kansas City
+<i>Journal</i>, under date of September 14, 1885.</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;The difficult thing for the tourist to do in regard to Alaska is to
+describe what is seen for the general reader. Everything is on such an
+immense and massive scale that words are diminutives for expression,
+rather than&mdash;as travelers have been credited with using them&mdash;for
+exaggerated descriptions. For example, people cross the continent to
+sail for an hour or two among the Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence,
+and word-painting has been exhausted in exaltation of their beauties.
+But here is a thousand miles of islands, ranging in size from an acre to
+the proportions of a State, covered with evergreen forests of tropical
+luxuriance, yet so arctic in their character as to be new to the eye,
+and in regard to which botanical nomenclature but confuses and
+dissatisfies. And in all this vast extent of mountain scenery, with
+summits ranging from one thousand to fifteen thousand feet in height,
+there is not enough level land visible to aggregate one prairie county
+in Western Missouri or Kansas. Day after day there is a continuous and
+unbroken chain of mountain scenery. I can not better impress the
+character of the landscape, as seen from a vessel's deck, than to ask
+the reader to imagine the parks, valleys, cañons, gorges and depressions
+of the Rocky Mountains to be filled with water to the base of the snowy
+range, and then take a sail through them from Santa Fé to the northern
+line of Montana. Just about what could be seen on such an imaginary
+voyage is actually passed through in the sail now completed by our party
+of enthusiastic tourists for the past ten days. You may divide the
+scenery into parts by the days, and just as it was successively passed
+through, and any one of the subdivisions will furnish more grand<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span>
+combination of mountain and sea than can be seen anywhere on the globe.
+It is this vast profusion of scenery, this daily and hourly unrolling of
+the panorama, that overwhelms and confuses the observer. It is too great
+to be separated into details, and everything is platted on such a
+gigantic scale that all former experiences are dwarfed, and the
+imagination rejects the adjectives that have heretofore served for other
+scenes: to employ them here is only to mislead.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;As one gentleman, a veteran traveler, remarked to me, as we stood
+looking north at the entrance to Glacier Bay, with the St. Elias Alps in
+full view, and Mounts Crillon and Fairweather overtopping the
+snow-covered peaks of that remarkable range:</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;&lsquo;You can take just what we see here, and put it down on Switzerland,
+and it will hide all there is of mountain scenery in Europe.&rsquo; And then
+he added: &lsquo;I have been all over the world; but you are now looking at a
+scene that has not its parallel elsewhere on the globe.&rsquo;</p>
+
+<p>&ldquo;I cite this incident, as it is more descriptive, and gives a better
+idea of contrast than anything of my own could do, giving, as it does,
+to the reader, a conception of the vastness and immensity of the
+topographical aspect of the shores of the inland seas through whose
+labyrinthine passages we have for ten days past, and for ten days more
+to come will be lost to the outside world, where nature reigns
+undisturbed and unfretted by the hand of civilization.&rdquo;</p>
+
+<p>Here, under the solemn influence of Mount St. Elias, and in the
+northernmost waters of the greatest ocean of our planet, we turn
+southward to repeat in inverse order the things we have seen; or
+perchance, as often happens, down a number of new channels, with their
+varied scenery, before home is reached again.</p>
+
+<p>I have given a certain order in which the few ports of Alaska are
+visited; but the reader must not for a moment think that this is always
+rigidly followed. Sometimes some of them are left for the return
+journey, and much depends on the amount of freight, and the number and
+character of passengers. In the winter the trips are made wholly with
+reference to mails, freight, and the few passengers; but in the spring,
+summer, and fall these are wholly subordinate, and the trips are
+converted into excursions in the broadest sense of the word. While
+thousands of little channels remain almost wholly unexplored, which
+probably would make the fortune of excursion companies if transported
+elsewhere, yet it is evident that the greater attractions of the great
+inland passage have been discovered, and are now shown to the tourists
+to the Wonderland of the World.</p>
+
+<p style="text-align: right; margin-right: 5%;"><span class="smcap">Fred'k Schwatka.</span></p>
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+<p><span style="font-size: 120%; text-align: left;">Footnote:</span></p>
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> The Russian name is Destruction or Pernicious Straits (the
+reason for which appears further on), and, in its improper translation
+to Peril Straits, many people supposed the name was given on account of
+its dangerous navigation.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Wonderland; or Alaska and the Inside
+Passage, by Lieut. Frederick Schwatka and John Hyde
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Wonderland; or Alaska and the Inside Passage, by
+Lieut. Frederick Schwatka and John Hyde
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Wonderland; or Alaska and the Inside Passage
+       With a Description of the Country Traversed by the Northern
+       Pacific Railroad
+
+Author: Lieut. Frederick Schwatka
+        John Hyde
+
+Release Date: June 16, 2011 [EBook #36435]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WONDERLAND; OR ALASKA AND ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Jens Nordmann, Greg Bergquist and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                           Transcriber's Notes:
+
+The original spelling and minor inconsistencies in the spelling and
+formatting have been maintained.
+
+The ligature oe has been marked as [oe].
+
+A list with all corrections applied to the text has been added at the
+end of the text.
+
+
+                                Formatting:
+
+Text in italics has been marked with underscores (_text_) and bold text
+using the equals sign (=text=).
+
+
+
+
+     [Illustration: COLUMBIA RIVER, LOOKING EASTWARD FROM ROCK BLUFF.]
+
+
+
+
+                                Wonderland;
+
+                                    OR
+
+                       ALASKA AND THE INLAND PASSAGE
+
+                                    BY
+
+                        LIEUT. FREDERICK SCHWATKA.
+
+                                   WITH
+
+               A Description of the Country Traversed by the
+                        Northern Pacific Railroad.
+
+                                    BY
+
+                                JOHN HYDE,
+
+      Author of "The Wonderland Route to the Pacific Coast," "Alice's
+               Adventures in the New Wonderland," etc., etc.
+
+
+        Copyrighted, 1886, by CHAS. S. FEE, General Passenger Agent
+                   Northern Pacific Railroad, St. Paul.
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Rand McNally & Co.]
+
+
+                      PRINTERS AND ENGRAVERS, CHICAGO
+
+
+
+
+                               INTRODUCTORY.
+
+
+"Multi discurrent, et augebitur _stultitia_." Thus did one of the
+profoundest of modern thinkers parody the prediction of the Hebrew
+prophet who foretold the time when, with increased facilities for travel
+and intercommunication, there should come a great enlargement of the
+bounds of knowledge, and a corresponding amelioration of the condition
+of humanity.
+
+It would, however, be strange indeed, if the complex process of social
+evolution, even in its present stage, were not marked by some of the
+indications of a retrograde movement. The age in which we live has
+undoubtedly its peculiar follies and foibles, which are but thrown into
+relief by the qualities that more generally distinguish it.
+
+But many are running to and fro, and knowledge is being increased.
+Nature is revealing herself to the traveler in new forms and aspects,
+and disclosing to his wondering gaze mysterious pages of her great book
+hitherto hidden from him.
+
+And while extensive tracts of country, presenting physical features to
+which the entire known world furnishes no parallel, have been brought by
+railroad enterprise within reach alike of the curious sight-seer and the
+inquiring student, a vast region, of almost unexampled wealth-producing
+capabilities, has, by the same agency, been thrown open to that
+advancing tide of civilization which is rapidly overspreading the world.
+
+Hence the traveler journeying to Wonderland--to that enchanted realm
+where the most extravagant creations of the fancy appear trivial and
+commonplace beside the more extraordinary works of Nature--sees also, in
+process of solution, some of the hitherto most perplexing problems of
+economics; observes, as he can not do with like facility anywhere else
+in the world, the well-ordered plan upon which the bounty of Nature is
+distributed; and witnesses the unlocking of vast storehouses of good, to
+supply the increasing needs of the human race.
+
+It may be doubted whether the world affords another tour at once so
+delightful and so instructive as that which, beginning at the head of
+the Mississippi valley, and crossing the great wheat fields of Dakota
+and Eastern Washington, the stock ranges of Montana, and the gold and
+silver ribbed mountains of Montana and Idaho, embraces also the wonders
+of the Yellowstone National Park, and the incomparable scenery of the
+Columbia river, to crown all with the stupendous sights of that Great
+Land whose unique natural features have earned for it the well-deserved
+title of "Wonderland." No longer one of peril and hardship, but, on the
+contrary, one of absolute luxury, this tour has, within the last two
+years, attracted thousands of pilgrims from all parts of the civilized
+world. To them, as well as to all other lovers of the sublime and
+beautiful, and to the students of the mysteries of Nature in all lands,
+who may have the good fortune to visit the far Northwest in 1886, the
+following pages are respectfully inscribed.
+
+
+
+
+                                CONTENTS.
+
+                                                                       PAGE
+  The Advantages of Travel--Introductory                                  3
+  The Development of the Northwest--St. Paul and Minneapolis           7, 8
+  Minnesota Lakes and their Attractions for the Angler                 8-10
+  Brainerd, Duluth, Superior and Ashland                                 10
+  Red River Valley                                                       12
+  The Changes of a Half Century                                          13
+  Great Wheat Farms of Dakota, and the Capital of the Territory          14
+  "Bad Lands" of the Little Missouri                                 15, 16
+  Yellowstone River                                                   16-19
+  Yellowstone National Park                                           20-22
+  Helena and the Romance of Mining                                    23-26
+  Main Range of the Rocky Mountains                                  26, 27
+  Butte City, the greatest Mining Camp in the World                   27-30
+  The Flathead Country                                               30, 31
+  Clark's Fork and Lake Pend d'Oreille                                31-34
+  Spokane Falls                                                          35
+  Palouse and Walla Walla Wheat Countries                            36, 37
+  The Columbia River                                                  37-40
+  Portland                                                           40, 41
+  The Willamette Valley and Southern Oregon                          42, 43
+  The Lower Columbia and City of Astoria, with Fisheries              43-46
+  Western Washington: its Scenery and Resources                          46
+  The Sovereign Mountain: Tacoma                                         47
+  Puget Sound                                                         48-54
+  Victoria, British Columbia                                         55, 56
+  Discovery Passage                                                      58
+  Queen Charlotte Sound                                                  60
+  Varieties of Fish found in Inland Passage                              62
+  Wrangell, Alaska                                                   63, 64
+  Indian Life, Facilities for Studying                                67-71
+  Sitka, Alaska                                                       73-77
+  Hot Springs Bay, Alaska                                                77
+  Climate of Sitka                                                       79
+  Land of the Chilkats                                                81-84
+  Juneau, Alaska, and the Mines of Douglas Island                     84-86
+  Glacier Bay                                                         86-92
+  Glaciers of Alaska                                                  93-95
+  Mount St. Elias                                                    95, 96
+
+
+
+
+                          INDEX TO ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+                                                                       PAGE
+  Alaska's Thousand Islands, as seen from Sitka                          78
+  An Alaska Indian House, with Totem Poles                               66
+  Chancel of the Greek Church, Sitka                                     75
+  Chilkat Blanket                                                        81
+  Columbia River, looking Eastward from Rock Bluff             Frontispiece
+  Detroit Lake and Hotel Minnesota, Detroit, Minn.                       11
+  Falls of the Gibbon River, National Park                               29
+  Floating Fish Wheel, Columbia River                                    42
+  Hotel Tacoma, Tacoma, W. T.                                            47
+  Lake Pend d'Oreille, Idaho                                             33
+  Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, National Park                               21
+  Mount Hood, from the Head of the Dalles, Columbia River                38
+  Mount Tacoma, W. T.                                                    44
+  Old Faithful Geyser, National Park                                     18
+  Scenes among the Alaskan Glaciers                                      89
+  Scenes in the Inland Passage                                           59
+  Sitka, Alaska                                                          72
+  T'linket Basket Work                                                   68
+  T'linket Carved Spoons                                                 85
+  T'linket War Canoe                                                     83
+  Yellowstone River, National Park                                       25
+
+
+
+
+                   FROM THE GREAT LAKES TO PUGET SOUND.
+
+
+                   "=To the doorways of the West-Wind,
+                     To the portals of the Sunset.="
+
+While, in the old world, armies have been contending for the possession
+of narrow strips of territory, in kingdoms themselves smaller than many
+single American States, and venerable _savants_ have been predicting
+the near approach of the time when the population of the world shall have
+outstripped the means of subsistence, there has arisen, between the
+headwaters of the Mississippi and the mouth of the stately Columbia, an
+imperial domain, more than three times the size of the German empire,
+and capable of sustaining upon its own soil one hundred millions of
+people. What little has been done--for it is but little,
+comparatively--toward the development of its amazing resources, has
+called into existence, on its eastern border, two great and beautiful
+cities, which have sprung up side by side on the banks of the great
+Father of Waters.
+
+It is there, at St. Paul and Minneapolis, that the traveler's journey to
+Wonderland may be said to begin. And what could be more fitting? for are
+they not wonders in themselves, presenting, as they do, the most
+astonishing picture of rapid expansion the world has ever seen?
+
+But it is not their magnitude that excites the greatest surprise. If
+there is a single newspaper reader in ignorance of the fact that the
+State census of 1885 found them with a population of 240,597? or that
+the 23,994 buildings erected within their limits since the beginning of
+1882, represent a frontage of over 100 miles and an expenditure of
+$69,895,390, or that their banking capital considerably exceeds that of
+either San Francisco, New Orleans, Cincinnati or St. Louis, it is
+through no fault of the cities themselves. But the visitor may bring
+with him a just appreciation of their size and commercial importance,
+and yet have had no conception of their beauty, nor of the abounding
+evidences of public spirit and private enterprise that will confront him
+at every turn.
+
+The position of St. Paul, at the head of navigation, and as the focus of
+the railway activity of the Northwest, commands for it an extensive
+wholesale trade, its sales aggregating, in 1885, the large sum of
+$81,420,000. The surprise with which the visitor views the stately piles
+that are the outward and visible signs of the vast commercial and
+financial interests of the city, the creation of a few brief seasons, is
+no greater than the astonishment with which he realizes the absence of
+all appearance of immaturity. In no city in the Union are the business
+quarters more solid and substantial; in none is the domestic
+architecture more attractive. Nothing is crude, nothing tentative,
+nothing transitional.
+
+Clustered around the great Falls of St. Anthony, stand those colossal
+flouring mills that have been more than ever the pride and glory of
+Minneapolis, since they enabled her to pluck from Chicago's crown one of
+the brightest of its jewels. It is a startling commentary upon the much
+vaunted supremacy of the great metropolis of the West, that, while the
+wheat attracted to its market fell gradually from 34,106,109 bushels in
+1879, to 13,265,223 bushels in 1885, the amount handled by the millers
+of Minneapolis increased, within the same period, from 7,514,364 bushels
+to 32,112,840 bushels. The mills have a total flour-manufacturing
+capacity of 33,973 barrels per day, an amount equal to the necessities
+of the three most populous States of the Union, or of one-half the
+population of Great Britain.
+
+But to turn from the romance of figures to that of song and story.
+Should the traveler have any desire to visit the far-famed falls of
+Minnehaha, it is now he should gratify it. Situated almost midway
+between the two cities, they can be easily reached, either by train,
+carriage or river steamboat. The poetic interest with which they have
+been invested by their association with the legend of Hiawatha
+constitutes but the least of their claims upon the traveler's notice;
+and, should he turn aside to visit them, not even the sublime scenery of
+Wonderland will entirely efface the memory of their laughing waters.
+
+The residents of St. Paul and Minneapolis are fortunate in having,
+within easy access, two of the most beautiful of Minnesota's ten
+thousand lakes, White Bear and Minnetonka. Justly celebrated for the
+beauty of their scenery and the excellence of their hotel and other
+accommodations, they are resorted to annually by thousands of visitors
+from far and near. Minnetonka is not inappropriately called the Saratoga
+of the Northwest; but no designation, however high-sounding or
+significant, can do justice to the exquisite beauty of its scenery or
+the sumptuousness of its hotels.
+
+It is time, however, that we were directing our steps toward that
+scarcely less luxurious hotel which is waiting to convey us to the
+fir-clad slopes of Puget Sound! While holding in honorable remembrance
+the names of Watt and Stephenson, surely posterity ought not altogether
+to forget those of the inventors of the sleeping car and dining car; for
+the railway train of early days was hardly a greater advance upon the
+old stage-coach than is the completely equipped train of to-day over its
+predecessor of even twenty-five years ago.
+
+The journey from St. Paul to Puget Sound may be said to fall into eight
+geographical divisions, with well-marked natural boundaries, and
+corresponding in the main to the divisions into which the line has been
+formed for operating purposes. The first extends to the Red River of the
+North, a distance of 275 miles, lying wholly in the State of Minnesota.
+
+The great attractions of this State are its pine forests, covering
+nearly one-half of its entire area, and its numerous beautiful lakes. Of
+the latter, there are no fewer than 215 within twenty-five miles of St.
+Paul, and they extend right through the central part of the State, on
+both sides of the railroad, to the prairie region bordering upon the Red
+River. Many of them are of exceeding beauty, especially in the district
+known as the
+
+
+                             LAKE PARK REGION,
+
+a richly diversified section of country, presenting the most charming
+scenery.
+
+Among the most famous, are Lake Minnewaska, on the Little Falls and
+Dakota division of the road, fifty-nine miles from its junction with the
+main line; Clitherall and Battle Lakes, on the Fergus Falls and Black
+Hills branch; and Detroit Lake, on the direct line to the West, 230
+miles from St. Paul. All these have fine pebbly beaches, lined with
+beautiful borders of timber, and their accommodations for all classes of
+visitors--anglers, sportsmen and families--are exceptionally good.
+
+Like all the waters of Minnesota, they teem with fine, gamey fish of
+many varieties. The accomplished editor of the _American Angler_,
+writing in his well-known journal, after a visit to the Northwest in the
+summer of 1885, stated, that, during a life of nearly a quarter of a
+century as an angler, no experience with a rod had equaled in variety
+and weight the two days' fishing he had had on Detroit Lake. Nor was Mr.
+Harris' success exceptional. A score of one hundred pounds per day on
+two rods, is, as he goes on to state, considered quite a modest record.
+
+For what is locally regarded as a good catch, we must turn to that of
+the three gentlemen who, on the afternoon of June 1st, 1885, brought in,
+as the result of less than three days' work, 603 pike, 138 black bass,
+178 rock bass, 28 cat-fish and 25 pickerel; the entire catch weighing
+2,321 pounds. This "fish story" is well authenticated. Eastern anglers
+can have no conception how full of fine fish, of many varieties, these
+Minnesota lakes are. For black and rock bass, maskalonge, pickerel,
+wall-eyed pike, and an infinite variety of smaller fish, a recent writer
+in the _American Angler_ pronounces Detroit Lake the finest fishing
+ground on the continent. Nor need any angler or sportsman--for prairie
+chickens, ducks and deer are abundant--expect to have to look to sport
+to make up for the deficiencies of accommodation; for the Hotel
+Minnesota is said, on the highest authority, to be a gem of a hostelry
+for anglers, every facility and convenience they could wish for being
+obtainable at moderate charges.
+
+The scenic attractions, also, are of a high order, the natural features
+of the surrounding country being of the most diversified character. The
+air is pure and invigorating, and hay fever and malarial diseases are
+absolutely unknown.
+
+Lake Park is another delightful resort in this region, having good
+fishing and boating within easy distance, and a first-class hotel
+adjoining the depot.
+
+Before arriving at Detroit, the traveler from St. Paul passes through
+Brainerd, the "City of the Pines." The selection of this city for the
+location of the machine shops of the railroad has given a great impetus
+to its growth; nevertheless, for deer and bear hunting, it is still one
+of the best localities in the State. There is fine fishing, too, in its
+immediate vicinity, and its hotel accommodations also are very good.
+Here it is, also, that travelers from the East, coming by way of the
+Great Lakes, join the west-bound train.
+
+The distance to Brainerd from Duluth, the point of debarkation, at the
+west end of Lake Superior, is 114 miles.
+
+The traveler, who, in 1886, visits Mr. Proctor Knott's "Zenith City of
+the Unsalted Seas," will find the straggling village of five years ago a
+busy city of 20,000 inhabitants, with abounding evidences of the
+commercial importance it has attained. By reason of the advantages
+afforded by the great waterway of the continent, for the direct shipment
+of wheat to the Eastern States or to Europe, Duluth has become almost as
+formidable a rival of Minneapolis as that city is of Chicago. It handled
+last year no fewer than 15,819,462 bushels of wheat, while its saw mills
+cut up 125,000,000 feet of lumber, and an extensive trade was also
+carried on in coal, salt and lime.
+
+A few miles distant, and connected with it by a railway whose
+construction involved the building of an exceedingly fine iron bridge,
+is the city of Superior, also with excellent terminal facilities. The
+eastern terminus of this, the Wisconsin division of the railroad, is
+Ashland, an important town and favorite summer resort on Lake Superior.
+Midway between this town and Duluth the line crosses the Brule river,
+whose excellent fishing grounds its recent opening has, for the first
+time, rendered accessible.
+
+The Brule river proper is a large stream, averaging 100 feet in width,
+of clear, cold water, flowing, its entire length, through one of the
+great forests of Wisconsin. With high banks, and free from low or marshy
+ground, it is an ideal trout stream. The best fishing on the river is to
+be had in a stretch of fourteen miles, extending six miles above, and
+eight miles below, the crossing of the Northern Pacific Railroad. The
+trout attain a large size, catches of three and four pound fish being an
+everyday occurrence. In the surrounding forest, game, including moose,
+deer, beaver and pheasant, is found in great abundance. Large quantities
+of venison were shipped hence by rail during the winter of 1885-86, the
+shipments from November 1st to December 15th alone exceeding 13,000
+pounds.
+
+[Illustration: DETROIT LAKE AND HOTEL MINNESOTA, DETROIT, MINN.]
+
+Almost equal to the exciting pleasures of the chase is that of shooting
+the Brule river rapids in a canoe. Accompanied by an experienced guide,
+the visitor performs this feat without danger; let him attempt it alone,
+and he is sure of a ducking. For the angler and sportsman, the Brule
+possesses an additional attraction in the fact, that, while most
+excellent accommodations are to be had at the railroad crossing,
+including boats, fishing tackle and guides, there is no settlement of
+any kind within a considerable distance.
+
+The line from Duluth to Brainerd follows, for many miles, the winding
+valley of the St. Louis river, through scenery for the most part stern
+and wild, yet not without an occasional suggestion of the gentler beauty
+of the far-off Youghiogheny. Between Fond du Lac and Thompson the river
+has a descent of 500 feet in a distance of twelve miles, tearing its way
+with terrific force through a tortuous, rock-bound channel. The best
+point for observing the fine effect of these impetuous rapids and
+cascades, known locally as the Dalles of the St. Louis, is near the
+twentieth mile post westward from Duluth.
+
+Pursuing its way in the direction of Brainerd, the train traverses a
+country comparatively little known. Its scanty population is engaged
+almost entirely in logging, lumber manufacturing, and hunting, the
+immense forest covering the face of the country abounding with deer,
+bear, wolves, foxes and other game.
+
+Emerging from the deep recesses of the forest, and passing swiftly
+through the lake region already referred to, we find ourselves in a
+level prairie country, and can dimly descry, in the far distance, the
+thin, dark line which another hour's ride will show to be the narrow
+fringe of timber that marks the course of the famous Red River of the
+North, that true Arimaspes, with whose golden sands thousands and tens
+of thousands have been made rich.
+
+This, then, is the renowned Red River valley, the story of whose amazing
+fertility has attracted, from older States and still older countries,
+one hundred and fifty thousand people. The greatest influx has taken
+place since 1880, the increase in population between the census of that
+year and that in the spring of 1885 being 38,719 on the Minnesota side
+of the river, and 54,918 on the Dakota side.
+
+Although there are vast tracts of land still uncultivated, the general
+appearance of the valley is that of a well-settled agricultural country.
+But this will occasion no surprise to those who remember that its annual
+wheat crop has now reached 25,000,000 bushels, and its crop of other
+cereals 15,000,000 bushels.
+
+Not a little surprise, however, is occasioned by the discovery that the
+"valley" of which the traveler has heard so much is not a valley at all,
+but a great plain, whose slope toward the river is so slight as to be
+wholly imperceptible.
+
+Where the railroad crosses the river, have sprung up the cities of
+Moorhead and Fargo, the former in Minnesota, the latter in Dakota. With
+such advantages of situation as they possess, and with the days of
+booms, with all their unhealthy excitement and fictitious values, gone,
+never, it is to be hoped, to return, these cities must continue to
+increase in commercial importance, with the development of the rich
+country surrounding them.
+
+Fargo is, indeed, the largest city in the entire Territory of Dakota,
+and will probably retain its position as such for many years to come.
+
+It is needless to repeat here the oft-told story of Dakota's marvelous
+growth. Time was when it was capable of being wrought up into a mosaic
+of wondrous interest and beauty; but, with the multiplication of
+agencies for giving it publicity, its charm, for the present generation
+at least, has passed away. It will, nevertheless, afford the historian
+of the nineteenth century material for one of the most interesting and
+instructive chapters of his work.
+
+Writing, in 1828, his "Principles of Population," the great historian of
+Europe said: "The gradual and continuous progress of the European race
+toward the Rocky Mountains has the solemnity of a providential event: it
+is like a deluge of men rising unabatedly, and daily driven onward by
+the hand of God." But at that time the State of Illinois, but half way
+toward the Rocky Mountains and one-third of the way to the Pacific
+Ocean, was almost the limit of its mighty flow. Wisconsin, with no
+noteworthy settlements of its own, formed part of the Territory of
+Michigan; Iowa was an altogether vacant region, without any form of
+organized government; while other great States of to-day were still
+either mere parts of the Louisiana purchase, with as yet no separate
+identity, or were comprised within the then far-extending territory of
+the republic of Mexico.
+
+The traveler to the Northwest, by the Northern Pacific Railroad,
+traverses that section of the far-extending dominion of the American
+people that was the last to be overspread by that great tide of
+civilization. He sees its evidences in the happy and prosperous
+homesteads that dot the fertile plains of Dakota, and nestle under the
+sheltering bluffs of the winding valleys of Montana; he is able to bear
+witness, also, to its having penetrated the fastnesses of the Rocky
+Mountains, and converted the hillsides of Eastern Washington and the
+fair lands of Oregon into smiling wheat fields and fruitful orchards.
+
+But, notwithstanding the hundreds of flourishing settlements scattered
+along the great highway of travel, with here and there a goodly town or
+city, he can not but wonder at the apparent sparseness of population
+when he remembers that one and a half millions of people have their
+homes between the Great Lakes and Puget Sound.
+
+But let him consider the vast extent of the country; let him call to
+mind that Dakota, with her 415,664 inhabitants, has yet 230 acres of
+land to every man, woman and child within her borders, her population
+averaging less than three to the square mile; that the density of
+population in Oregon and Washington is but two and one-half and two to
+the square mile, respectively; while both Montana and Idaho have
+considerably more square miles than they have inhabitants.
+
+The county of Cass, which stretches westward from Fargo, is one of the
+best settled sections of the Northwest, there being no land whatever
+subject to entry. It contains some of the largest wheat farms in the
+world, and it has produced more than one wheat crop of 5,000,000
+bushels. This county has an actual wealth of over $20,000,000, and, with
+its 120 school houses and numberless churches, it may be taken as
+admirably illustrating both the capabilities of the country and the
+character of the people who are building it up.
+
+At Dalrymple, eighteen miles from Fargo, and at Casselton, two miles
+farther west, are the
+
+
+                            GREAT WHEAT FARMS
+
+of Mr. Oliver Dalrymple, comprising some 50,000 acres. Continuing
+westward, we pass, in rapid succession, various flourishing settlements,
+among them being Valley City, on the Sheyenne river, the judicial seat
+of Barnes county.
+
+Presently the train descends into the valley of the James, or Dakota,
+river, and the prosperous city of Jamestown is reached.
+
+From this point a branch line extends northward, ninety miles, to
+Minnewaukan, at the west end of Devil's Lake. This remarkable body of
+salt water, with its deeply indented and richly wooded shores, where the
+briny odor of the ocean mingles with the fragrance of the prairie
+flower, is surrounded by some of the best farming lands in Dakota. Its
+attractions for the tourist, angler and sportsman have obtained wide
+recognition, fish and game being very plentiful, the climate highly
+salubrious, the scenery picturesque, and the hotel accommodations good.
+The James river is said to be the longest unnavigable river on the
+continent, if not in the world, its flow, for hundreds of miles, being
+distinguished by scarcely any perceptible increase of volume.
+
+Crossing a high table land, 1,850 feet above sea-level, and 950 feet
+higher than the Red river at Fargo, and known geographically as the
+Coteaux de Missouri, the train rapidly pursues its way past various
+large and well-managed farms to Bismarck, the capital of the Territory.
+
+This city has long commanded an important trade with various settlements
+on the Upper Missouri, the steamboats employed having transported as
+much as 45,000,000 pounds of freight within a single brief period of
+navigation. It is the shipping and distributing point of a vast area
+whose only railroad facilities are those afforded by the great
+transcontinental line that here crosses the Missouri river. With the
+various important settlements that have been established in that great
+tract of country, Bismarck has either stage or steamboat communication.
+While, however, river navigation is limited to a comparatively short
+season, the stages run regularly all the year round, having even been
+known not to miss a single trip, or to be more than a few hours late,
+during an entire winter.
+
+But it is not the Fargos, the Jamestowns or the Bismarcks with which the
+tourist chiefly concerns himself. They attract his attention only
+because of the evidence they afford of the development and stability of
+the country, and the enterprise of the people, and he is far more
+interested in the crossing of the Missouri river, than in either of the
+two cities that frown at each other across its turbid waters.
+
+The bridge, by which the railroad is carried across the great river,
+here 2,800 feet in breadth, although 3,500 miles from the Gulf of
+Mexico, is a structure of immense strength, and not more substantial
+than it is graceful. It consists of three spans, each of 400 feet, and
+two approach spans, each of 113 feet, with a long stretch of strongly
+built trestle work over the gently sloping west bank of the river.
+
+Here the train runs into Mandan, a pleasant little city, nestling under
+low ranges of hills which encompass it on three sides. This is the
+terminus of the Missouri and Dakota divisions of the road. The change
+from Central to Mountain time is made at this point, and the west-bound
+traveler sets his watch back one hour.
+
+The country west of the Missouri river presents an entirely different
+appearance from that through which the tourist has been traveling since
+he entered the Territory at Fargo. It is more diversified; its numerous
+streams, with handsome groves of cottonwood upon their banks, meandering
+through pleasant valleys, clothed, where still uncultivated, with that
+nutritious bunch grass, which, but a few short years ago, made them the
+favorite feeding grounds of the buffalo. The vast beds of lignite coal
+that underlie this portion of the Territory crop out at various points,
+twelve car loads being mined daily at Sims, 35 miles west of Mandan, for
+shipment by rail. The most important settlements on this division of the
+road are Gladstone and Dickinson.
+
+Twenty miles west of the latter town, the line enters the singular and
+picturesque region known as the Bad Lands of the Little Missouri. For a
+full hour the train pursues its way through scenery of which the whole
+world is not known to afford any counterpart.
+
+The product of natural forces, still working to the same end, the
+picture that meets the astonished gaze of the traveler, suggests, where
+it does not utterly bewilder, either supernatural agency or the
+operation of laws whose reign has ceased. Reasonable hypotheses all
+failing, one's imagination connects the weird and mysterious scene with
+some early geologic epoch when, perchance under the brooding darkness of
+night, the yet plastic earth was tortured by some wild spirit of Caprice
+into the fantastic forms in which we see it to-day. But evidences of
+intelligent design are not altogether wanting, and we turn from mounds
+of wonderful regularity and symmetry of form, standing like Egyptian
+pyramids, to reproductions of the frowning battlements of Gibraltar or
+Ehrenbreitstein, or the dome and towers of some great cathedral.
+
+Marvelous as they are, however, these forms and outlines excite even
+less astonishment than the wealth of coloring in which they are arrayed.
+Composed largely of clay, solidified by pressure, and converted into
+terra-cotta by the slow combustion of underlying masses of lignite, each
+dome and pyramid and mimic castle is encircled with chromatic bands
+presenting vivid and startling contrasts. Huge petrifactions and vast
+masses of scoria contribute to the weirdness of the scene, and, as if to
+complete its plutonic appearance, smoke goes up unceasingly from
+unquenchable subterranean fires.
+
+It is a mistake to suppose that these lands are worthless for
+agricultural or stock-raising purposes. The valleys and ravines are
+covered with nutritious grasses, and thousands of cattle may be seen
+grazing where the buffalo and other herbivorous wild animals were wont
+to roam in days gone by. The term "Bad Lands" is a careless and
+incomplete translation of the designation bestowed upon the country by
+the early French _voyageurs_, who described it as "_mauvaises terres
+pour traverser_."
+
+At the crossing of the Little Missouri, the Marquis de Mores, a wealthy
+young French nobleman, has established the headquarters of an extensive
+stock raising and dressed meat shipping business.
+
+From this point, Medora, excursions may be made to Cedar Canon, one of
+the most interesting localities in the Bad Lands; or to the burning
+mine, where may be seen, raging, perhaps the most extensive of the
+subterranean fires of the entire region. It is also a good point from
+which to start out on hunting expeditions, large game being by no means
+exterminated.
+
+Sixteen miles beyond the Little Missouri, the train passes Sentinel
+Butte, a lofty peak rising precipitously from the plain on the south
+side of the railroad. One mile more and the Montana boundary is crossed,
+at an elevation of 2,840 feet above sea-level.
+
+In crossing the great Territory of Dakota, the tourist has traveled 367
+miles; in traversing that of Montana, he performs a journey of no less
+than 800 miles, almost equivalent to the distance from New York to
+Indianapolis. Fortunately, the luxurious appointments of the train
+render weariness well nigh impossible, and the trip hourly becomes more
+interesting and enjoyable.
+
+At Glendive, 692 miles from St. Paul, the road enters the valley of the
+Yellowstone, the windings of which famous river it follows, more or less
+closely, for 340 miles.
+
+The valley, from five to ten miles in width, is inclosed by high bluffs
+of clay and sandstone, their curious formations occasionally reminding
+the traveler of the Bad Lands, though they have but little variety of
+color.
+
+If the Red River of the North may justly be regarded as the true
+Arimaspes, the Yellowstone may, with equal propriety, be designated the
+modern Amphrysus. It is upon its banks and those of its tributaries that
+there has been developed, since the opening of the Northern Pacific
+Railroad, that vast grazing interest which has given Montana as great a
+reputation for its stock as Dakota has for its wheat.
+
+For many years,--up to and including the winter of 1881-82,--this was
+the finest buffalo hunting country on the continent. But the slaughter
+that season was enormous, 250,000 hides being shipped East, principally
+from Miles City. Few have been seen since that time. There are hunters
+who believe that small herds might still be found north of the
+international boundary; but, so far as the United States is concerned,
+the buffalo is practically extinct. There is, however, a small herd in
+the National Park. Safe from the hunter's deadly repeater, they will
+probably multiply rapidly, as it may be supposed that they will soon
+know instinctively the limits within which they are unmolested.
+
+Miles City, a few years ago the principal rendezvous of the hunter, is
+now the great resort of the grazier and cowboy, it being the metropolis
+of the stock interest of the Territory.
+
+The development of this interest within recent years has been as rapid
+as that of wheat raising in Dakota, and the economist who should turn to
+the United States census reports for 1880 for the present condition of
+any considerable section of the Northwest would be led seriously astray.
+
+In 1880, Montana contained 490,000 cattle and 520,000 sheep. According
+to a recent report of the Governor of the Territory, it contains, at the
+present time, 900,000 cattle, 1,200,000 sheep, and 120,000 horses. The
+grazing interests of the West are moving steadily toward Eastern
+Montana; for, so rapidly do cattle thrive on the nutritious grasses of
+these northern valleys, that a yearling steer is worth $10 more in
+Montana than in Texas.
+
+Glendive, already mentioned as the point at which the railroad enters
+the Yellowstone valley, is second only to Miles City in importance as a
+shipping and distributing point. It is also a divisional terminus of the
+railroad.
+
+Two miles west of Miles City is Fort Keogh, one of the largest and most
+beautiful military posts in the United States. It was established in
+1877 by Gen. Nelson A. Miles, as a means of holding in check the warlike
+Sioux. There are but few Indians to be seen now along the line of the
+railroad, and those are engaged in agricultural and industrial pursuits.
+The extinction of the buffalo has rendered the Indian much more amenable
+to the civilizing influences brought to bear upon him than he formerly
+was, and very fair crops of grain are now being raised at the various
+agencies. At the Devil's Lake Agency, 60,000 bushels of wheat were
+raised in 1885, and purchased by the United States Government at $1 per
+hundred pounds. The Crows, along the northern border of whose
+reservation--nearly as large as the State of Massachusetts--the road
+runs for two hundred miles, are said to be the richest nation in the
+world, in proportion to their numbers, their wealth aggregating $3,500
+per head. This, however, is due to the natural increase of their live
+stock, chiefly ponies, rather than to their own industry and thrift.
+
+Out amid the solitudes of the far Northwest--for it must not be supposed
+that the entire country is a succession of settlements--it is wonderful
+with what interest the traveler regards that trivial event of daily
+occurrence, the meeting of the east-bound train. But, as he peers
+through the car window, or stands out on the platform, in critical
+survey of its passengers, it probably does not occur to him that he is
+as much an object of curiosity to them as they are, each of them, to
+him. He represents the far East of this great continent, they the far
+West. He, perchance, is making his first trip to the Pacific slope, they
+theirs to the Great Lakes or the Atlantic coast. Among them, however,
+may be distinguished merry groups of returning tourists, while,
+reclining in a luxurious Pullman car, or tempting dyspepsia with the
+rich and varied dainties of the dining car, may be seen one of the early
+settlers of California, a weather-beaten pioneer, who reached the
+Pacific slope by way of the Horn, twenty years ahead of the first
+transcontinental railway, and now goes east, by the Wonderland route, to
+revisit the scenes of his childhood.
+
+[Illustration: VIEWS OF "OLD FAITHFUL" GEYSER, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.]
+
+Twenty-nine miles east of Billings, the next divisional terminus and
+important trading point on the line of the road, the traveler will
+observe, rising from the right bank of the river, a huge mass of
+sandstone, interesting as bearing upon its face the name of William
+Clarke, cut in the rock by the veteran explorer himself, when he visited
+the locality in 1806. He will, about the same time, be able dimly to
+descry the peaks of the Big Snow Mountains, which, at first scarcely
+distinguishable from the fleecy clouds that hang around them,
+subsequently loom up grandly, constituting one of the most beautiful
+pieces of scenery in the Northwest.
+
+The disciple of Izaak Walton will not have traveled 225 miles along the
+banks of the Yellowstone without having seen many an inviting spot for
+indulgence in what his great master called the most calm, quiet and
+innocent of all recreations. His arrival, therefore, at Billings, the
+largest town on the upper river, and the metropolis--notwithstanding
+that it has a population of only 2,000--of a region larger than Maine,
+South Carolina, West Virginia or Indiana, affords a not unfitting
+opportunity for a brief reference to the incomparable trout fishing
+afforded by the numerous streams accessible from points on the Montana
+and Yellowstone divisions of the road.
+
+The Yellowstone river itself, west of Billings, has no superior as a
+trout stream. It contains trout of four distinct varieties, and fishing
+is so easy as at times to be in danger of losing its charm. The
+individual scores of various tourists, reported in the _American Angler_
+during the summer and fall of 1885, and not containing any that were
+phenomenally large, averaged twenty-five trout per hour for each rod, a
+record with which the most ardent angler ought surely to be satisfied. A
+majority of these scores were made in the vicinity of Livingston, near
+which town another visitor is reported to have caught twenty-one fine,
+large trout "after supper," while two others are stated to have brought
+in 160 as the result of "a day's sport." The Yellowstone also contains a
+gamey fish known to local anglers as grayling, but pronounced by Mr. W.
+C. Harris to be the whitefish (_Corregonus tullibee_). That gentleman
+refers, in a recent article, to the abundance, in these waters, of the
+celebrated "cut-throat" trout, whose size and abundance, in conjunction
+with the picturesqueness of its habitat, will, he adds, when generally
+known, "make a visit to the Yellowstone imperative to the angler who
+aspires to a well-rounded life as a rodster." Among other waters,
+mention may be made of Rosebud Lake, a beautiful spot reached by wagon
+from Billings, where the trout fishing is declared to be splendid;
+Little Rosebud Creek, near Stillwater, where eighty-seven trout are
+reported to have been caught in four hours with a single rod; Prior
+Creek, near Huntley; Mission Creek, twelve miles east of Livingston; and
+Sixteen-Mile Creek, sixteen miles from Townsend, all of which are said
+by visitors to afford excellent sport.
+
+It must not, however, be supposed that the angler enjoys a monopoly of
+sport in this country of varied attractions; for grouse and ducks are
+plentiful, as are also, on the mountain ranges, deer, elk and antelope.
+
+Passing Springdale, where the traveler will observe hacks in readiness
+to convey visitors to Hunter's Hot Springs, two and one-half miles
+distant, the train approaches, amid scenery increasing in grandeur, the
+little city of Livingston. Whatever interest may, in the near future,
+attach to this place as a resort of the gentle brotherhood from all
+parts of the continent, it will certainly fall short of that which will
+belong to it as the gateway of that world-renowned region, the
+
+
+                        YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.
+
+"Situated," to quote the distinguished geologist, Professor John Muir,
+of California, who recently visited it, "in the heart of the Rocky
+Mountains, on the broad, rugged summit of the continent, amid snow and
+ice, and dark, shaggy forests, where the great rivers take their rise,
+it surpasses in wakeful, exciting interest any other region yet
+discovered on the face of the globe." While it contains the most
+beautiful and sublime of mountain, lake and forest scenery, its fame
+rests, not upon that, but upon the extraordinary assemblage of the
+curious products of Nature's caprice, and the infinitely wonderful
+manifestations of almost extinct forms of her energy that are found
+within its borders. Approached by a branch of the Northern Pacific
+Railroad, extending southward from Livingston to its northern boundary,
+and the only railroad within one hundred miles, this remarkable region
+has, by a judicious expenditure of public money and by admirable
+individual and corporate enterprise, been rendered so easy of
+exploration that the tourist may within the brief period of five days
+visit all its most interesting points.
+
+So majestically do the snow-capped mountains tower above the lesser
+hills that inclose the charming valley whose various windings the
+railroad follows, from Livingston to Cinnabar, that the traveler can
+scarcely believe that still more magnificent scenery lies beyond. And
+truly the cloud-piercing Emigrant's Peak, with its famous mining gulch;
+the yet loftier Electric Peak; the colossal Sphinx; and that most
+singular formation, the Devil's Slide, form the most fitting
+introduction that the human mind can conceive to the wonders of the
+National Park.
+
+Conveyed by an excellently equipped Concord coach from the terminus of
+the railroad to the hotel at Mammoth Hot Springs, six miles distant, the
+tourist finds himself surrounded by all the conveniences of modern hotel
+life.
+
+And within full view of the hotel, from which they are distant but a few
+hundred yards, are the exquisitely filigreed and richly colored terraces
+formed by the Mammoth Hot Springs, not the least of the wonders of this
+famous region. Here one hardly knows whether to admire more the
+delicacy of the formation or that of the coloring, the former not being
+excelled by that of the finest lace, while the latter surpasses, both in
+brilliancy, harmony, and subtle gradations, any chromatic effects known
+to exist beyond the limits of this enchanted ground.
+
+The keenest interest of the newly arrived tourist, however, usually
+centres in those constantly recurring evidences of tremendous force, the
+geysers. With few and unimportant exceptions, these are found within the
+limits of certain distinctly marked areas, known as the upper, middle,
+lower and Norris basins, to which one or two days' time is devoted,
+according to circumstances. The most celebrated of the geysers--those
+with whose names the world has been made familiar by the pen, brush or
+camera of author or artist--are in the upper basin. Here are found the
+Giant and Giantess, the Castle and Grotto, the Bee Hive, the Splendid
+and the Grand. Here, too, is Old Faithful, the constancy of whose hourly
+eruption makes it impossible for even the most hurried visitor to the
+upper basin to leave without witnessing at least one display of its
+tremendous energy.
+
+[Illustration: MAMMOTH HOT SPRINGS HOTEL--YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.]
+
+The reader, who, not having visited the National Park, has yet gazed
+into some of the profound gorges to be found in the great mountain
+ranges of the far West, will read with astonishment, if not with
+incredulity, that there is but one canon in the world,--the Grand Canon
+of the Yellowstone. Perhaps slightly exceeded in depth, as it certainly
+is in gloom, it is yet made to stand pre-eminent among the natural
+wonders of the world by the majesty of its cataract and the gorgeous
+blazonry of its walls. To say that the former--no mere silver ribbon of
+spray, but a fall of great volume--is a little more than twice the
+height of Niagara, would, by means of a familiar comparison, enable
+almost any one to form a not altogether inadequate conception of its
+grandeur. But for the matchless adornment of its walls, we have no
+available comparison; naught but itself can be its parallel. One great
+writer describes it as being hung with rainbows, like glorious banners.
+Another, borrowing from Mr. Ruskin, likens it to a great cathedral,
+with painted windows, and full of treasures of illuminated manuscript.
+But, as we take our stand on the brink of the Falls, with twelve miles
+of sculptured rock spread out before us, rising from 1,500 to 2,000 feet
+in height, and all aflame with glowing color, we have to acknowledge,
+with a distinguished writer and a no less celebrated artist, that,
+neither by the most cunningly wrought fabric of language, nor the most
+skillful manipulation of color, is it possible to create in the mind a
+conception answering to this sublime reality. For countless ages, frost
+and snow, heat and vapor, lightning and rain, torrent and glacier, have
+wrought upon that mysterious rock, evolving from its iron, its sulphur,
+its arsenic, its lime and its lava, the glorious apparel in which it
+stands arrayed. And the wondrous fabrication is still going on. The
+bewildered traveler would scarcely be surprised to see the gorgeous
+spectacle fade from his vision like a dream: but its texture is
+continually being renewed; the giant forces are ever at work; still do
+they--
+
+            "=Sit at the busy loom of time and ply,
+              Weaving for God the garment thou seest Him by.="
+
+For the minor wonders of this world of marvels, the formations of
+geyserite and the petrified forests, Tower and Gibbon Falls and the
+cliffs of volcanic glass, the caldrons of boiling mud and transparent
+pools of sapphire blue, the reader is referred to special guides to the
+Park.
+
+It only remains to be stated that there is regularly established
+transportation daily between all the principal points, that the
+distances are not fatiguing, that the charges are reasonable, and the
+equipment everything that could be desired.
+
+The angler need scarcely be reminded that this is the far-famed region
+where the juxtaposition of streams of hot and cold water enables him to
+cook his fish as fast as he can catch them, without moving from his seat
+or taking them off the hook!
+
+
+                              WESTWARD STILL.
+
+Resuming his westward journey at Livingston, the traveler finds himself
+ascending the first of the two great mountain barriers that had to be
+surmounted by the engineers of the Northern Pacific Railroad. By a grade
+of 116 feet to the mile, the line reaches, twelve miles from Livingston,
+an elevation of 5,565 feet above sea-level. Here it is carried under the
+crest of the range by a tunnel 3,610 feet in length, from which it
+emerges into a fine, rocky canon, at the western portal of which is the
+military post of Fort Ellis. A few minutes more, and the train runs into
+Bozeman, a beautifully situated and flourishing little city of twenty
+years' growth. Few cities can boast of more magnificent scenery,
+majestic snow-capped ranges standing out against the sky on every side.
+
+Westward for thirty miles extends the rich and fertile Gallatin valley.
+It is no uncommon thing to get forty bushels of hard spring wheat, or
+sixty bushels of fall wheat, to the acre in this valley, and its barley
+is of such superior excellence as to be in great demand for malting
+purposes at Milwaukee and other Eastern cities.
+
+Twenty-nine miles west of Bozeman, are Gallatin City, and the bright
+little town of Three Forks, commanding the valleys of the Madison and
+Jefferson, the agricultural lands of which, now being brought under
+cultivation, are not inferior to those of the older settled valley of
+the Gallatin.
+
+Four miles more, and the tourist comes upon a point of considerable
+geographical interest, the three mountain streams just mentioned pouring
+their waters into a common channel, to form the Missouri river. It is
+through a rocky canon, abounding in wild and magnificent scenery, that
+the greatest river on the continent enters upon its long course of 4,450
+miles. For nearly fifty miles, the line follows its various windings,
+until finally the river runs away northward through that profound chasm
+known as the Grand Canon of the Missouri, or the Gates of the Rocky
+Mountains. Visitors to Helena will find an excursion to the Grand Canon,
+occupying not necessarily more than two days' time, one of the most
+delightful experiences of their transcontinental journey.
+
+The most important town between Bozeman and Helena, is Townsend, the
+shipping and distributing point for no inconsiderable portion of one of
+the best counties in Montana. It has daily communication by coach with
+White Sulphur Springs, a health resort of great local repute. This
+coming rival of older and hitherto more famous spas, lies in a beautiful
+valley, 5,070 feet above sea-level, and surrounded by the grandest of
+Rocky Mountain scenery. Its accommodations for visitors of all classes
+are most excellent, including, as they do, one of the best hotels in the
+Territory. Six miles distant are Castle Mountain and Crystal Cave, the
+latter a cavern of great extent, having twenty-three separate chambers,
+full of curious and beautiful stalactitic and stalagmitic formations.
+The town, mountain and cavern were all fully described and admirably
+illustrated in the _West Shore Magazine_ for July, 1885.
+
+Not so much by way of tribute, either to its own beauty or that of its
+situation, as in recognition of its wealth, its commercial importance
+and the commanding position it has so long occupied in the mining world,
+Helena, the capital of the Territory, is called the Queen of the
+Mountains. Situated on the eastern slope of the continental divide,
+1,155 miles from St. Paul, it became a great distributing point and
+financial centre, even when hundreds of miles of mountain and prairie
+separated it from the nearest railroad. Dependent upon the Missouri
+river for its commercial intercourse with the world, it was in a state
+of well-nigh complete isolation during the greater part of every year.
+Under other conditions, this comparative isolation would have stunted
+its growth and cramped the energies of its people. But with the assured
+product of their labor such a commodity as gold, with its universality
+of demand and stability of value, the sturdy settlers in Last Chance
+Gulch had always the most powerful of incentives to restless energy.
+With the steadily increasing production of the precious metals, if not
+in its own immediate vicinity, at least in the country it dominated,
+Helena grew rich, until now it claims to be the wealthiest city of its
+size in the United States.
+
+It was on the afternoon of the 15th of July, 1864, that a party of four
+miners, weary and sick at heart, pitched their tents in that
+desolate-looking gulch where now stands this flourishing city.
+Disappointed at not being able to secure claims in the then prosperous
+camp of Virginia City, and reduced to great extremity, they regarded the
+little gulch on the Prickly Pear as their "last chance." Finding gold in
+paying quantities, they resolved to settle down; and it is said, that,
+before two years had elapsed, each of them was worth $50,000.
+
+In the meantime, the little camp in what was thenceforward known as Last
+Chance Gulch had attracted miners from all parts of the Rocky Mountains.
+It is stated, in a recent official publication of the Territory, that
+the gulch yielded $30,000,000 during the first three seasons it was
+worked; but these figures so far exceed the popular estimate, that they
+are repeated only under reserve. The present annual production is said
+to be about $50,000. It would seem to the visitor as though every square
+foot of ground had been dug up, and, if it be his first experience of a
+placer mining district, its appearance will strike him as singularly
+novel.
+
+The romance of mining is well illustrated by the story of the citizen of
+Helena who was digging out a cellar to his house, when a passing
+stranger offered to remove the pile of earth that was being heaped up in
+the roadway, and promised to return with one-half of whatever dust he
+might obtain by the washing to which he proposed to submit it.
+Permission granted and the earth removed, the citizen thought no more of
+the matter. Great, therefore, was his astonishment when, a few days
+later, the half-forgotten face of the stranger appeared at the door, and
+he was handed, as his share of the yield of that unpromising dirt, the
+equivalent of $650.
+
+Possibly, however, a story involving only a paltry sum of three figures,
+may not answer to the reader's conception of the romantic. It does not
+excite his imagination. He expects to read of millions. If so, let us
+turn to the story of the miner, who, confident that he was the possessor
+of a valuable claim, held on to it in spite of the most adverse
+circumstances, hiring himself out in winter that he might have a little
+money wherewith to work upon his claim in summer, until, at last, after
+eight years of indomitable perseverance and patient toil, he was able to
+sell his property for $2,250,000; or that of the weary and penniless
+wanderer, who, having tramped all the way from Nevada, began a toilsome
+search, to be continued through much suffering and privation for several
+years, but destined to be rewarded at last by the discovery of one of
+the richest veins of gold in the Territory, a vein that has yielded, up
+to the present time, $4,000,000 worth of gold.
+
+The tourist will find an hour's chat with an old-timer an interesting
+and not altogether unprofitable exercise, albeit he may find it hard to
+discriminate between statements that he may venture to repeat and those
+made for his especial benefit as a tenderfoot.
+
+He need not, however, discredit such stories as that a four-mule team
+once hauled to Fort Benton, for transportation down the Missouri river,
+two and one-half tons of gold, valued at $1,500,000; nor yet, that in
+the early days potatoes were worth fifty cents per pound, and flour one
+dollar, or that oranges were sold at a dollar each, and small pineapples
+at seven dollars. These are facts not more startling than many others
+that might be quoted. In the mining world, at least, truth is positively
+stranger than fiction.
+
+[Illustration: YELLOWSTONE RIVER, NATIONAL PARK.]
+
+The annual production of the precious metals in Montana has increased
+enormously within recent years, doubling itself between 1880 and 1882,
+and trebling between 1882 and 1884. The annual output now approaches
+$30,000,000, and the Territory stands at the head of the gold-producing
+regions of the world, notwithstanding that upward of $200,000,000 worth
+has been extracted from its soil.
+
+Among the many famous mines on the eastern slope of the mountains are
+the Drum Lumon, shipping $80,000 worth of bullion per month, of which
+fully one-half may be set down as profit; the Gloster, shipping $50,000
+worth per month; the Whitlach Union, long the most celebrated gold mine
+in the Territory; those of Red Mountain, said to be the most important
+undeveloped mineral field in the United States; the Clark's Fork,
+bordering on the National Park, and now yielding, and with no railroad
+facilities, 855 tons of ore per day; those of the Helena Mining and
+Reduction Company at Wickes, reached by a branch of the Northern Pacific
+Railroad from Prickly Pear Junction, and known to have shipped as much
+as $125,000 worth of ore in a single month; and the Lexington, which has
+produced silver ore averaging in assay value from $15,000 to $20,000 per
+ton. Visitors to the New Orleans Exposition of 1884-85 will remember the
+magnificent exhibits from the last-mentioned mine, as also those from
+the Cable and Drum Lumon mines, the latter including one solid chunk of
+high-grade ore weighing 1,715 pounds.
+
+The most valuable gold nugget ever found in Montana is said to have been
+worth about $3,200. There is a nugget in the vault of the First National
+Bank at Helena, weighing 47.7 ounces, and valued at $945.80. But the
+most interesting sight in the city is, undoubtedly, the process of
+assaying at the United States Assay Office, where may also be seen those
+marvelously adjusted and delicately graduated scales, by which the
+weight of even an eye-lash can be exactly determined.
+
+The next stage of the traveler's journey westward from Helena lies
+across
+
+
+                  THE MAIN RANGE OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.
+
+It is by way of the Mullan Pass--so named from the fact of Lieut. John
+Mullan, U. S. A., having built a wagon road through it in 1867, to
+connect Fort Benton, Mont., with Fort Walla Walla, W. T.,--that the
+railroad is carried over the continental divide. The highest elevation
+of the pass itself is 5,855 feet; but, by the construction of a tunnel
+3,850 feet in length, the line was made to reach the western slope
+without attaining a higher elevation than 5,547 feet.
+
+It is not until Butler is reached, thirteen miles from Helena, that
+either the scenery or the construction of the road calls for special
+notice. But at that point the scenery becomes exceedingly picturesque,
+the rocks towering above the pines and spruce like the ruins of some
+ancient stronghold. From now on, too, the tourist will find constant
+employment in observing how the gigantic barriers, which seem to forbid
+all further progress, are, one after another, overcome.
+
+Amid scenery increasing in wildness and grandeur, the train pursues its
+tortuous course; through Iron Ridge Tunnel, near which the track forms
+an almost perfect letter S; across innumerable ravines; along rocky
+shelves and through deep cuttings, until at last it enters the eastern
+portal of the Mullan Tunnel. A few minutes later the traveler is looking
+out upon the grassy hills and pleasant valleys of the Pacific slope, the
+approach to the tunnel from the west presenting a singular contrast to
+the savage grandeur that distinguishes the approach from the east.
+
+Following the valley of the Little Blackfoot, the train presently
+arrives at Garrison, where passengers desirous of visiting the most
+flourishing mining city on the American continent, if not in the world,
+must change cars.
+
+"The most flourishing mining city on the American continent, if not in
+the world!" exclaims the reader. Even so; and yet we are not in Nevada,
+nor yet in Colorado; and, besides, the former is about played out; and,
+as for Leadville, every one remembers the disasters that overtook her,
+culminating, as they did, in the failure of all her four banks. The city
+is Butte, that, at the last United States census, had a population of
+only 3,363, but now claims six times that number, and has a monthly
+mining pay-roll of $620,000.
+
+The line from Garrison runs through the beautiful Deer Lodge valley, in
+which are many fine farms. Deer Lodge City, the judicial seat of the
+county, is pleasantly situated 4,546 feet above sea-level. Being well
+laid out, it presents, with its wide streets and handsome public
+buildings, an exceedingly attractive appearance.
+
+It is at the head of this valley, on the western slope of the main range
+of the Rocky Mountains, and fifteen miles from the Pipestone Pass, that
+there has been witnessed, during the last three or four years, that
+rapid growth of population and wealth that is without parallel, even in
+the marvelous annals of mining. Here, encompassed on three sides by
+lofty ranges of mountains, Butte pours forth the smoke of its
+innumerable furnaces; for not only is its production of silver so great
+that it has come to be designated the "Silver City," but its copper
+mines are such as to give employment to the most extensive smelting
+works in the United States. Its total production during 1885, valued at
+$15,000,000, viz., $5,000,000 worth of bullion and $10,000,000 worth of
+copper matte, was twice that of Utah, and three times that of Nevada. It
+also exceeded that of the whole of California, or the combined
+production of Idaho, New Mexico and Arizona.
+
+The leading silver mines of the district are the Alice, Moulton,
+Lexington and Silver Bow, which alone employ 210 stamps and produce 230
+tons of ore daily. The magnificent appliances of the Alice mine,
+including the great Cornish pump that cost $40,000, are the wonder of
+every visitor. The process of reduction, here as elsewhere, is somewhat
+complex, especially in the case of the baser ores, being in part
+chemical and in part mechanical. It involves the crushing of the ore to
+powder, under the pressure of enormous bars of iron, weighing 900 pounds
+each, and known as "stamps," and its subsequent roasting in large,
+hollow cylinders, salt being largely employed in the former, and
+quicksilver in the latter, stage of the operation. The roasting mills of
+the Alice mines treat 100 tons of ore per day, and their bullion
+product approaches $100,000 per month.
+
+The great Lexington property, which has produced $1,000,000 per annum
+for four years, is owned by a French company. It claims to be the most
+complete mine in the entire West, and it is certainly one of the richest
+and most extensive.
+
+The Moulton and Silver Bow have a daily capacity of forty and thirty
+tons of ore respectively. They are magnificent properties, well
+developed and exceedingly productive. The former makes the proud boast
+of working its ore to a higher percentage of its value than any other
+mill in the district.
+
+But it is the copper mines and smelters that represent the largest
+capital; give employment to the greatest number of men; have the largest
+production, both in tonnage and aggregate value; and, it may be added,
+make the most smoke.
+
+At the head of the rich and powerful companies engaged in this industry,
+stands the Anaconda,--its mine at Butte, the greatest copper property in
+America; its smelting works, at the neighboring town of Anaconda, the
+largest of their kind in the world. Sold, five years ago, for an amount
+that would not now be more than sufficient to pay its employes a week's
+wages, its property is roughly estimated to be worth $15,000,000. With
+certain contemplated additions to its smelting capacity, it will handle
+daily 1,200 tons of ore, yielding 180 tons of matte, or 108 tons of pure
+copper. Its entire machinery run by water-power, it yet requires for its
+furnaces no less than 180 cords of wood per day; in view of which
+enormous consumption it is stated to have recently let a contract for
+300,000 cords, representing upward of $1,000,000. Second only to this
+gigantic concern, is the Parrott Company, whose total matte output for
+1884 was 14,856,323 pounds, containing 9,324,805 pounds of pure copper,
+valued, including its silver contents, at about $1,250,000. With largely
+increased capacity, its production of pure copper will probably have
+reached 15,000,000 pounds in the year just drawing to a close. Among
+other leading companies, may be mentioned the Montana, owning some of
+the richest and most steadily productive mining property in process of
+development; Clark's Colusa, said to have in sight, above the 300-foot
+level, at least 150,000 tons of valuable ore; and the Bell and Colorado,
+two of the richest copper-silver mines in the district.
+
+So much for the mines and smelting works of Butte. What of the city
+itself? Briefly, it may be said to be a typical Western town, as seen in
+flush times; nothing too big for it, nothing too good; its quivering
+energy finding expression, now in the erection of a $150,000 court
+house, and now in that of the finest opera house on the Pacific slope,
+outside of San Francisco; its business enterprise filling magnificent
+stores with costly goods, suited to the tastes, pocket-books and
+spending proclivities of a community that on last Christmas eve spent
+$6,000 in presents in a single one of its stores.
+
+[Illustration: FALLS OF THE GIBBON RIVER, YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK.]
+
+There are several good trout streams in the vicinity of Butte, and it is
+pleasant to know that, in a city whose amusements are mainly of a very
+different character, there are those who know how to handle the rod.
+
+Proceeding westward from Garrison, the traveler will have some fine
+views of mountain scenery, including the snow-clad peaks of Mount
+Powell. Drummond, twenty-one miles west, is the station for the rich
+mining districts of New Chicago and Phillipsburg. Granite Mountain mine,
+near the latter place, is exceedingly rich. A vein of ore, six feet
+wide, and assaying from 125 to 2,000 ounces of silver to the ton, is now
+being worked, the output reaching $120,000 per month.
+
+Soon the train enters Hell Gate Canon, at first a beautiful valley, from
+two to three miles in width, but narrowing as we go westward, until from
+between its stupendous walls we suddenly emerge upon a broad plateau,
+where stands the city of Missoula. Formerly a remote and isolated
+frontier post, Missoula is now a place of considerable importance.
+Extending southward for ninety miles is the valley of the Bitter Root
+river, well watered, exceedingly fertile and thickly settled. Here are
+raised fine crops of wheat and oats, as well as vegetables, apples and
+strawberries.
+
+The tourist has now entered the finest game country in the Northwest. At
+any point along the line, for a distance of nearly three hundred miles,
+he will find deer, elk and bear in great abundance. Let him but place
+himself on their trail, and he will certainly soon have them within
+gunshot. Even in the vicinity of Missoula there is excellent sport, one
+local trapper obtaining $160 bounty for bear last season. Ducks and
+prairie chickens are also plentiful, and various species of trout abound
+in the mountain streams.
+
+The most interesting, as it is the most accessible, of the Indian
+reservations contiguous to the line of the Northern Pacific Railroad, is
+that of the Flathead tribe, through which the line runs for many miles
+in the course of its north-westward sweep from Missoula. At Arlee
+station, the visitor is within five miles of the agency, and at Ravalli
+a like distance from St. Ignatius mission. For a full account of the
+excellent work carried on among the Indians by the Jesuit Fathers,
+together with an exceedingly interesting description of the Flathead
+country generally, the reader is referred to an article in the _Century
+Magazine_ for October, 1882, from the accomplished pen of Mr. E. V.
+Smalley, as well as to sundry articles in that gentleman's own magazine,
+_The Northwest_. From a point about 500 feet from the summit of
+Macdonald's Peak, a few miles north of Ravalli, there is a remarkable
+view of a deep mountain gorge known as Pumpelly Canon, which has many of
+the striking features of the Yosemite valley, in California. Two
+waterfalls, having an apparent height of about 800 feet, leap into this
+profound rocky canon, and form a small circular lake of a dark blue
+color. This lake falls, by another cataract, into a second lake of
+exactly the same size and shape as the first, while still another
+cataract leaps from the lower lake into a deep ravine filled with
+magnificent forest trees. An excursion to Macdonald's Peak may be made
+from the mission in a single day. Tourists are, however, recommended to
+take blankets and provisions, and encamp upon the crest of the mountain
+to witness the sunrise. Saddle horses are obtainable at the mission, and
+there is a good trail all the way.
+
+Thompson Falls, 101 miles west of Missoula, is the starting point for
+the C[oe]ur d'Alene mines. The distress that followed the arrival in
+this district, in 1883, of several thousand half-starving adventurers,
+who, expecting to pick up in a few hours' time nuggets enough to make
+them rich for life, brought neither blankets to protect them from the
+cold of winter, nor the means of returning to their far-distant homes,
+or even of reaching less remote centres where work could be obtained,
+gave the C[oe]ur d'Alene mines a blow from which they were slow to
+recover. The development that has since taken place, especially since
+the introduction of hydraulics, has, however, abundantly demonstrated
+that former claims as to the richness and permanence of the mines were
+well founded, and we shall probably soon see here the richest placer
+mining camp in the world.
+
+The matchless river scenery that has done so much toward placing the
+Northern Pacific Railroad system in the proud position it occupies
+to-day at the head of the scenic railways of America, is not alone that
+of the peerless Columbia. For 140 miles of its course, in Western
+Montana and the Panhandle of Idaho, it follows the windings of a stream
+that for grand and imposing scenery is second only to that renowned
+river itself. Should the traveler wake up in the morning, anywhere
+between the point at which the waters of the Missoula empty themselves
+into the bright green flood of the Pend d'Oreille river and the head of
+Pend d'Oreille Lake, he will almost certainly suppose that it is in the
+current of the far-famed Columbia that he sees reflected, perhaps
+hundreds of feet beneath him, the varying forms of those stately
+mountains that soar thousands of feet above. But he is as yet almost a
+day's journey from the classic regions of the Columbia, albeit the
+lordly stream, whose scenery will be, hour after hour, a succession of
+surprises and delights to him, is one of the principal forks of that
+mighty river, whose still grander scenery it may be said to foreshadow
+in miniature.
+
+Between the Yellowstone National Park, on the one hand, and the Columbia
+river, on the other, Clark's Fork and the beautiful lake into which it
+widens out before turning northward to the British possessions, have
+been almost completely overshadowed. But their ten thousand beauties
+will assert themselves. They have not to be sought for in out-of-the-way
+places, nor are they so localized that a mere passing glimpse is the
+only reward of strained attention as the train flies onward. On the
+contrary, from an early hour in the morning until long past noon, there
+is a continuous unfolding of scenes in which are combined, with Nature's
+inimitable skill and infinite variety, all that is grandest in mountain,
+all that is most graceful in woodland and stream. So evenly distributed
+are the beauties of this long stretch of river scenery, that it is not
+easy to single out particular points as calling for special notice.
+There are, however, two that must arrest the attention and command the
+admiration of every traveler. The first, one mile east of Cabinet, where
+the river, which has been flowing for some distance considerably below
+the level of the railroad, enters a magnificent rocky gorge; and the
+other, about the same distance east of Clark's Fork, where it flows,
+without a ripple, through a forest of stately pines, whose forms are,
+with singular fidelity, reflected in its clear and tranquil waters. Soon
+it is lost to view, but only to reappear, after a short interval, in the
+form of the lovely
+
+
+                           LAKE PEND D'OREILLE.
+
+One of the largest sheets of fresh water in the West, Lake Pend
+d'Oreille will certainly yield to none in the beauty and variety of its
+scenery. Fifty-five miles in extreme length, and from three to twelve
+miles in width, it has an irregular shore line of probably 250 miles,
+richly diversified with rock and foliage, and surmounted by lofty ranges
+of hills. The railroad follows the north shore of the lake for about
+twenty-five miles, passing several little settlements, among which are
+Hope, Kootenai and Sand Point. Such accommodations as have hitherto been
+available to the visitor have been provided by respectable residents of
+Sand Point; but for the season of 1886 arrangements will be made that
+will constitute Hope the more convenient halting place. That, also, will
+be the point of arrival and departure for steamers making the tour of
+the lake.
+
+While the view from the car windows is not to be compared with the
+scenery at the southern end of the lake, it must, nevertheless, be
+pronounced superb. In the immediate foreground, the green waters break
+soothingly upon a pebbly beach, or fall in crested waves. On the right
+and left recede into distance the deeply indented shores, here clothed
+with luxuriant forests, there bare and precipitous. Yonder, nineteen
+miles away, is Granite Point, rising perpendicularly from the water 724
+feet, with Granite Mountain behind it, towering 5,300 feet above the
+level of the lake, itself surmounted by the snowy peaks of Pack Saddle
+Mountain, and they, in turn, by the great purple range of the C[oe]ur
+d'Alenes.
+
+Not a few Eastern travelers passing over the Northern Pacific Railroad
+have remarked upon the resemblance borne by the scenery of Lake Pend
+d'Oreille to that of their own famous Lake George. It is, however, if
+possible, even finer, the mountains being loftier, and the forests more
+luxuriant, than those inclosing the hitherto unrivaled lake in Northern
+New York.
+
+To fully set forth the attractions of this region for the sportsman, or
+to do anything like justice to its waters as fishing grounds, would
+require more space than is devoted in this pamphlet to the entire
+country between the Great Lakes and Puget Sound. Nowhere, probably, in
+the United States, is there such an abundance of large game as in the
+forests of Northwestern Montana and Northern Idaho. Within a few miles
+of any of the stations on Lake Pend d'Oreille may be found mule deer,
+white-tailed deer, elk, caribou and moose, black and cinnamon bear, and
+mountain sheep. Of winged game, geese, ducks and partridge are
+plentiful, and they may be shot at any season of the year. Various
+applications have been made to the Northern Pacific Railroad Company, by
+local hunters, for special rates for the shipment of game East; but the
+Company has steadfastly refused to encourage the wholesale destruction
+of game for commercial purposes, preferring that it should be reserved
+for legitimate sport.
+
+[Illustration: LAKE PEND D'OREILLE, IDAHO.]
+
+The true sportsman will immensely enjoy an excursion into the Kootenai
+country. The best route is from Kootenai station to Bonner's Ferry, on
+the Kootenai river, a distance of thirty-three miles by wagon road, and
+thence by boat, either down to the lake, a further distance of ninety
+miles, or up into the mountains. Complete camping outfits may be
+obtained from Spokane Falls, the nearest town on the line of the
+railroad.
+
+That the waters of Clark's Fork and Lake Pend d'Oreille are full of fine
+fish of many varieties, is established by overwhelming testimony. The
+want of a common nomenclature, however, is somewhat embarrassing to one
+whose opportunities for personal observation have been limited. Perhaps,
+therefore, it will be best to allow the local anglers to tell their own
+stories. Beginning with the town of Thompson's Falls, to which reference
+has already been made, we find a recent correspondent of the _American
+Angler_ claiming for Clark's Fork an abundance of salmon trout, of a
+species of large lake trout, and a species of whitefish, known locally
+as "squaw fish." Salmon trout are, he says, caught at all times of the
+year, except in midwinter and during high water in the month of June.
+They average from one-half to two pounds each, and the fishing is best
+during early spring and late fall. Lake trout have been caught weighing
+as much as eighteen pounds each; but the average is about six pounds.
+The "squaw fish" is said to be gamey, but of comparatively little value
+for the table. The same correspondent says that the mountain streams
+emptying into Clark's Fork in the vicinity of Thompson's Falls, afford
+excellent mountain trout fishing, and he quotes large scores made by
+local anglers. At Heron, which, by the way, is a divisional terminus of
+the railroad, with a first-class hotel operated in connection with the
+dining car department, trout is said to be so abundant as to be thought
+nothing of; "grayling," sometimes reaching ten pounds in weight, are
+almost as plentiful; and it is said to be no uncommon thing to see them
+jumping out of the water, pursued by large whitefish. Bull River, eight
+miles distant, yields salmon trout weighing up to twelve pounds. The
+waters of Lake Pend d'Oreille contain, in addition to the common lake
+trout, a species weighing from five to ten pounds each, and occasionally
+caught weighing as much as twenty pounds, speckled on both back and
+sides, and generally resembling Mackinac trout. They are a fine table
+fish, being much superior to lake trout. The "squaw fish" of this lake
+are said to resemble the pike. They weigh from one pound to five pounds
+each. From about the middle of August until the snow flies, the trout
+fishing is "the best in the world." There is also a fish resembling the
+herring, found in one part of the lake in immense shoals.
+
+Soon after leaving Lake Pend d'Oreille, the line enters a dense forest
+containing few settlements, and little that is interesting or
+picturesque, beyond the beautiful Lake Cocolala, a long but narrow sheet
+of water on the north side of the track. On the borders of the forest
+the train pauses a moment at Rathdrum, the nearest point on the railroad
+to Fort C[oe]ur d'Alene, on the lake of the same name. This lake even
+rivals, in the beauty of its waters and the grandeur of its mountain
+scenery, its more accessible neighbor, Lake Pend d'Oreille, while its
+conveniences for boating and fishing are equally good.
+
+At the station of Idaho Line, the train enters the Territory of
+Washington, pursuing its way in a southwesterly direction across the
+great Spokane Plain.
+
+A short run, and we are at Spokane Falls, a bright and busy little city,
+charmingly situated on the Spokane river, near the celebrated falls from
+which it takes its name. Built upon a gravelly plateau, sloping gently
+toward the river, overlooked by beautiful pine-clad hills, and with
+lofty mountain ranges in the far distance, Spokane Falls can not but
+produce a favorable impression upon the passing traveler. Its falls,
+which are its chief natural attraction, and will be the secret of the
+great commercial and manufacturing importance that undoubtedly awaits
+it, are situated on the north side of the town. The river is divided by
+basaltic islands into three great streams, curving toward each other,
+and pouring their floods into a common basin, from which the united
+waters come surging and foaming to make their final plunge of sixty-five
+feet into the deep chasm below. The tremendous force with which the
+river tears through its rocky channels, and hurls itself over the falls,
+is perhaps best illustrated by a comparison with the Falls of St.
+Anthony, at Minneapolis. While the latter represent a force of 135,000
+horse power, the former represents one of 216,000 horse power,
+utilizable with equal facility. Several extensive flouring mills, as
+well as saw mills, are already in operation; and there is no doubt that,
+with the development of the rich wheat country of Eastern Washington,
+there will come an immense extension of the manufacturing industries of
+Spokane Falls.
+
+It is probable that the town will soon have two important feeders in
+branch lines of railway, extending, the one northward to the Colville
+mining region,--the other southward to the Palouse wheat country. These
+lines will open railway communication with two of the richest sections
+of country west of the Rocky Mountains.
+
+Until within the last year or two, the settlements of the Colville
+valley have been confined to the scattered homes of ranchmen. But
+recently the tide of immigration that has been flowing into the
+Territory has reached this remote region, and agricultural operations of
+a general character are being engaged in. The valley is as fertile as it
+is beautiful, and not only fine wheat, but fruit of excellent quality,
+is being raised there.
+
+In the Chewelah district there have recently been found so many rich
+veins of silver that Mr. E. V. Smalley, who visited it in November,
+1885, declares that it is almost certain to become, within a few years,
+the greatest silver camp on the continent.
+
+Sixteen and forty-one miles respectively westward from Spokane Falls,
+are Cheney and Sprague, in a good agricultural country, whose rapid
+development is building them up as solid and substantial towns. Cheney
+has a large hotel, and is, moreover, the nearest railway station to
+Medical Lake, a large sheet of water possessing remarkable curative
+properties, and situated nine miles west. Good hotels and bathing
+establishments having been erected, Medical Lake is now an exceedingly
+pleasant resort, the surrounding country being very attractive.
+
+From Palouse Junction, sixty-nine miles west of Sprague, a line extends
+eastward into the Palouse country. So far as regards scenery, a ride
+over this line to Colfax and Moscow is as uninteresting a railroad
+journey as could well be found, the line following a series of valleys
+that have the appearance of having once formed the rocky bed of some
+considerable stream.
+
+Colfax is a busy little city in the Palouse river valley, hemmed in so
+closely on both sides that one of its rivals recently suggested that it
+might find it an advantage to be roofed over. But it does a considerable
+business for so small a place, shipping a large proportion of the
+agricultural produce of the valley, estimated, in 1885, at two million
+bushels of grain. The agricultural methods of Eastern Washington will
+strike most visitors as somewhat peculiar. It is not in every State of
+the Union, nor in every Territory, that the farmer can plow and sow
+"just when he gets ready." But here plowing and seeding may be seen in
+progress ten months out of every twelve, and instances have even been
+known of winter wheat being sown every month in the year, and all coming
+to harvest in its proper turn. And such crops! Thirty, forty and fifty
+bushels to the acre are raised so easily, that, had the farmer a nearer
+market, he would soon get rich. The construction of the proposed branch
+southward from Spokane Falls will, however, give him facilities for
+shipping east over the Northern Pacific Railroad that will certainly pay
+him better than exporting to England by way of Portland, as he does at
+present. The self-binding harvester, so familiar an object in many other
+parts of the country, is here unknown, the grain being cut by immense
+"headers," propelled by from four to eight horses each. This
+strange-looking machine, an exemplification of the old saying, "the cart
+before the horse," is better adapted than any other to the peculiar
+conditions of the country, straw being of no value, and threshing
+usually going on simultaneously with the cutting of the grain, although
+the wheat may, after cutting, lie in the fields for many weeks without
+detriment.
+
+The climate of Eastern Washington, to which alone this remarkable state
+of things is due, differs entirely from that of the western half of the
+Territory, from which it is divided by the Cascade range of mountains.
+It is a mistake to suppose that the humidity which characterizes that
+portion of the Territory bordering on the Pacific Ocean, distinguishes
+it as a whole. On the contrary, the eastern half is remarkably dry, and
+that, too, without those extremes of temperature that usually accompany
+a dry climate. Should there be a spell of severe cold during the brief
+winter season, it is invariably cut short by the "Kuro-Siwo," or
+Japanese current, which, striking the coasts of British Columbia and
+Washington Territory, sends a warm wave over the entire Northwestern
+country, sometimes extending even to the valleys of Montana.
+
+Continuing westward from Palouse Junction, a run of little more than an
+hour brings us to Pasco, the eastern terminus of the Cascade division of
+the railroad. This important division, intended to establish direct
+communication between the magnificent harbors on Puget Sound and the
+Eastern States, is already operated to the extent of 122 miles, or
+ninety miles westward from Pasco, and thirty-two miles eastward from
+Tacoma. Its eastern section has given a great impetus to the development
+of the agricultural capabilities of the Yakima, Klickitat and Kittitas
+valleys, which are well adapted, not only to stock raising, but also to
+the cultivation of fruits and cereals. In this section wool growing is
+also engaged in with great success. This industry is one of considerable
+importance both in Washington and Oregon, the entire clip for 1885 being
+no less than 13,000,000 pounds.
+
+There are few revelations more surprising to an Eastern tourist than
+that of the magnitude of some of the great Western rivers. The Snake
+river, for example, is known to him, if at all, merely as one of the
+various tributaries of the Columbia; and, when he finds himself crossing
+its mighty flood by a bridge 1,672 feet in length, and learns that its
+force and volume are such that it drives itself like a solid wedge into
+the waters of the Columbia, he is apt to wonder that he knows so little
+about it. Future tourists will not regard this tributary stream with any
+the less interest for being told beforehand that it is longer than the
+Rhine, more than three times the length of the Hudson, and that,
+straightened out, it would reach from the Missouri valley to the
+Atlantic ocean. It is, moreover, a great commercial highway, being
+navigated by steamers of considerable tonnage for 150 miles. It flows
+for a long distance in a deep canon, the sides of which are so
+precipitous as to render the river almost inaccessible. Immense shutes
+have therefore been constructed for the transfer of the wheat that forms
+the staple product of the country from the warehouses on the high banks
+to the boats and barges anchored below.
+
+Another section of the famous wheat country of Southeastern Washington,
+identified with the unmusical name of Walla Walla, borne by the oldest
+and best town east of the Cascade Mountains, is reached by a branch line
+extending from Wallula Junction. With 100,000 acres of land cultivated
+to cereals, with 800,000 apple trees, 100,000 pear, plum and peach
+trees, 25,000 grape-vines, large herds of cattle, and still larger
+flocks of sheep, the county of which Walla Walla is the judicial seat
+may be taken as fairly illustrating the varied capabilities of Eastern
+Washington. Scarcely less prosperous is the adjoining county of
+Columbia. These counties, however, being well settled, reference is made
+to them only as foreshadowing the future condition of those younger
+counties, adjacent to the Northern Pacific Railroad, which are now in
+course of settlement. In many of the latter the cultivation of the soil
+presents even fewer difficulties than in these older settled regions, in
+many parts of which there is scarcely an acre of level land to be found.
+
+Returning to Wallula Junction, and there resuming our westward journey,
+we at once enter a region of surpassing interest, none other than the
+famous land--
+
+                         "=Where rolls the Oregon.="
+
+Its navigable waters within 450 miles of those of the Missouri river,
+the great Columbia drains an area almost equal in extent to the united
+area of France and Germany. Excluding the portages at the Cascades and
+Dalles, with several less important rapids, the river is navigable to
+Kettle Falls, 725 miles from its mouth. These falls, on the upper river,
+are not accessible by rail, being a considerable distance above the
+point at which the railroad enters its valley. They are said to be more
+impressive even than the famous Cascades on the lower river, there being
+a perpendicular fall of twenty feet, and then swift rapids between rocky
+banks of quartz and porphyry. It is on the upper river, also, that there
+occur the Little Dalles, where the waters tear through a contracted
+channel with terrific force, constituting, at least at high water, an
+impassable barrier to navigation.
+
+[Illustration: MOUNT HOOD--FROM THE HEAD OF THE DALLES, COLUMBIA RIVER,
+OREGON.]
+
+From Wallula to within a few miles of Portland, a twelve hours' ride,
+the tourist enjoys an uninterrupted succession of views of that superb
+scenery which has given the Columbia river its world-wide reputation.
+Never for more than a few moments does he lose sight of its mighty
+flood,--now flowing onward with all the majesty of the lower
+Mississippi, and now surging through the rocky barriers that impede its
+course; here confined within lofty basaltic walls, there inclosing
+numerous beautifully wooded islands; and here again marked by long
+stretches of bare white sand driven continually by the unceasing winds.
+For some miles west of Wallula the banks of the river are low, and
+possess no special object of interest. It is not, indeed, until he
+reaches the Great Dalles that the tourist sees any indication of the
+magnificent scenery he is approaching. There, however, he has his first
+glimpse of the queenly Mount Hood, whose snowy peak, soaring 11,225 feet
+above the sea, stands out sharply against the sky at a distance of
+thirty-five miles. The Dalles themselves, scarcely noticeable, except
+when the river is at flood, constitute one of the most curious and
+interesting sights in the world,--nothing less than that of the mighty
+Columbia turned on edge. Here, within a gorge so narrow that a child may
+fling a pebble from bank to bank, is confined the greatest river of the
+Northwest. The chasm through which it flows has never been fathomed, and
+can only be approximately determined by an inversion of the grand
+proportions of the river where it flows through its ordinary channel.
+
+At Dalles City, the eastern terminus of navigation on the middle river,
+the tourist finds himself in an attractive town of nearly forty years'
+growth. Here he may with advantage make a brief stay, resuming his
+journey either by train or by steamer, the fine boats of the Oregon
+Railway & Navigation Company plying daily between this city and
+Portland. From the heights commanding the town, magnificent views are to
+be obtained, Mount Hood looming up in the southwest, and Mount Adams,
+another of the great peaks of the Cascade Range, in the north.
+
+We have now left behind the low-lying shores that extend for so many
+miles between the Dalles and Wallula. Henceforward the scenery increases
+in interest every mile, the mountains becoming loftier and more
+precipitous, the rocky shores more rugged, and the intervening foliage
+more luxuriant.
+
+It should be stated that the scenery, especially on the south side of
+the river, appears to much greater advantage when viewed from the deck
+of a steamer than when seen from the train. In consideration of this
+fact, railway tickets are available by steamer without extra charge. The
+boat leaving the Dalles early in the morning, there is a loss of one day
+involved in taking the steamer on the westward journey; but, returning
+from Portland, the tourist is able to reach the Dalles in time for that
+day's east-bound train.
+
+Forty-three miles from the Dalles are the Cascades, where the river
+changes from a placid lake to swift rapids and a foaming torrent. Before
+the completion of the railroad every pound of freight had to be
+transferred, at this point, from a steamer navigating the river above
+this insurmountable barrier to one navigating it below, or _vice versa_.
+The railway portage of six miles on the Washington side of the river is
+still operated, and the transfer of such passengers as choose to
+complete their journey by water is made so speedily and conveniently as
+to enhance, rather than otherwise, the pleasure and interest of the
+river trip.
+
+In view of the importance of the river as a free commercial highway,
+Congress has made several appropriations for the construction, at the
+Cascades, of a system of locks. It is certainly a gigantic undertaking,
+and many years will probably elapse before its completion.
+
+To a great convulsion of nature, of whose occurrence there is abundant
+evidence, may be traced a singular Indian tradition, that Mount Hood and
+Mount Adams formerly stood close to the river, connected by a natural
+bridge. The mountains, so goes the story, becoming angry with each
+other, threw out fire, ashes and stones, and so demolished the bridge,
+choking the river, which had previously been navigable. The present
+remoteness of the mountains is attributed to the anger of the Great
+Spirit, who hurled them thus far asunder. Both, in common with other
+peaks of the Cascade Range, are extinct volcanoes; and the Indian
+tradition may have its origin either in some great eruption, or in some
+sudden movement of what is known as the sliding mountain, an immense
+mass of basaltic rock gradually wearing its way toward the river.
+
+After gazing in admiration at the fine scenery surrounding the Cascades,
+the tourist will scarcely be prepared for the announcement that the
+grandest of all is yet to come. But, after leaving Bonneville, not only
+is the general effect grander and more imposing, but the objects of
+special interest are more numerous. Here it is that the advantage of
+making the trip by steamer is most apparent; for, let the train travel
+ever so slowly, it is impossible for even the most quick-sighted
+traveler to take in all the points of interest that crowd one upon
+another.
+
+On the north side is Castle Rock, rising abruptly from the water's edge
+a thousand feet or more. Farther down the river, also on the north side,
+is Cape Horn, an imposing basaltic cliff projecting into the water. On
+the south side there descend from the lofty perpendicular walls that
+frown upon the river for many miles, numerous waterfalls, of
+indescribable beauty. Here is the lovely Oneonta, 600 feet of silver
+ribbon, floating from the dizzy height. A few moments more, and we are
+opposite the still more beautiful Multnomah Fall, which has a descent of
+no less than 820 feet. At this point the train stops fifteen minutes to
+enable passengers to ascend to the rustic bridge, there to enjoy the
+best possible view of this incomparable fall, and its wondrously
+beautiful setting, contrasting so strikingly with the wild scenery
+around it.
+
+At the Pillars of Hercules, two gigantic columns of rock, one on either
+side the track, and forming, as it were, the western gateway to this
+marvelous region, the railroad leaves the river, and runs right on to
+Portland. The steamer continues its course, past the beautiful city of
+Vancouver, to the mouth of the Willamette river, by which great
+tributary of the Columbia, it soon reaches
+
+
+                                 PORTLAND.
+
+Its phenomenal growth, its commanding position on one of the great
+waterways of the continent, its wealth, commerce and enterprise, and the
+singular natural beauty of its situation, render the capital of the
+Pacific Northwest one of the most attractive cities on the American
+continent.
+
+Fifteen years ago Portland contained a population of 1,103. By 1880 the
+construction of the western section of the Northern Pacific Railroad,
+and the approaching completion of the great transcontinental system, had
+so stimulated the growth of the city that its population had increased
+to 17,577. To-day it is estimated at 30,000, or, including the suburbs
+of East Portland and Albina, at 40,000, and a handsomer city of its size
+can not be found in the United States.
+
+In everything that distinguishes a great metropolitan city, the progress
+of Portland has been even more remarkable than the rapid growth of its
+population. The handsome business blocks that line its principal streets
+bear witness to the magnitude of its trade and commerce, while its
+churches, schools and other public buildings testify to the high moral
+tone and refined taste of its citizens.
+
+Although one hundred miles from the coast, Portland, like London,
+Rotterdam and Antwerp, is virtually a seaport, and its growth and
+progress are based upon the solid foundations of its natural advantages.
+Loading at its wharves, or riding at anchor on the broad bosom of the
+river, may be seen, not only river craft of all sorts and sizes, but
+ocean-going vessels of 3,000 tons. When the great wheat crop of Oregon
+is in course of shipment to Europe, there may be seen a fleet of as fine
+merchantmen as can be found in the world. The salmon exports alone, for
+the year ending August 1, 1885, required 120 large vessels, having a
+total capacity of about as many thousand tons. The total value of the
+exports to foreign countries for the year just mentioned, was
+$5,857,057, and that of domestic exports $6,699,776, making a grand
+total of $12,556,833. In addition to several hundred thousand tons of
+wheat, and the 120 ship loads of salmon already mentioned, the exports
+from the Columbia river included over eleven million pounds of wool,
+over two million pounds of hides, nearly five and one-half million
+pounds of hops, and twenty-nine million pounds of potatoes.
+
+Portland is said to number among its merchant princes twenty-one
+millionaires, and certainly there are few cities whose private
+residences are more strikingly indicative of wealth and refinement. The
+picturesque surroundings of the city render it an exceedingly desirable
+place of residence. From the summit of Robinson's Hill a view that it is
+no extravagance to pronounce one of the finest in the world may be
+obtained. At one's feet lies the city, nestled in rich foliage.
+Stretching away, for many miles, from where their waters unite in one
+common flood, may be seen the Columbia and Willamette rivers. But above
+all, bounded only by the limits of the horizon, is the great Cascade
+Range, with all its glittering peaks. On the extreme right,
+seventy-eight miles distant, as the crow flies, is seen the snowy crown
+of Mount Jefferson; across the river, fifty-one miles distant, rises
+Mount Hood, one of the most beautiful mountains on the coast, and the
+pride and glory of Oregon; to the northeast stand out the crests of
+Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens, and in the same direction, but one
+hundred miles away, may be descried the great Tacoma, the grandest
+mountain on the Pacific slope. All these five peaks are radiant with
+eternal snow, and it may well be imagined that the effect of the
+uplifting of their giant forms against the clear blue sky is grand in
+the extreme.
+
+Tourists coming northward from San Francisco have the choice of two
+routes and two modes of travel. They may either take one of the fine
+steamers of the Oregon Railway and Navigation Company, sailing every
+five days, and performing the voyage in from sixty to seventy-two hours,
+or they may travel overland by the Oregon & California Railroad, a line
+that traverses not only the most fruitful plains, but also the most
+beautiful valleys, of this rich State.
+
+For the benefit of such travelers, and also in view of the possibility
+of there being those who, both coming and returning by the Northern
+Pacific Railroad, would like to visit the garden of Oregon, and, if
+possible, obtain a glimpse of Mount Shasta, it may not be out of place
+to give a brief description of the line extending southward from
+Portland to the southern boundary of the State.
+
+For upward of one hundred miles our route lies along the Willamette
+valley. This is the largest valley in the State, being 150 miles in
+length, with an average width of fifty miles. Inclosed on the east side
+by the Cascade Mountains, and on the west by the Coast Range, it
+contains an area of about four and one-half million acres of rich and
+beautiful land. Some of the pleasantest towns in the Northwest are to be
+found in this valley.
+
+[Illustration: FLOATING FISH WHEEL, ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER, OREGON.]
+
+First comes Oregon City, sixteen miles from Portland; this is the oldest
+town in Oregon. It is situated just below the beautiful falls of the
+Willamette, amid highly picturesque scenery. Its chief interest for the
+tourist centres in the falls, which represent a force of over a million
+horse power, or about eight times that of the Falls of St. Anthony. They
+may be seen a few hundred yards south of the station, on the west side
+of the track. Hitherto there has been seen no considerable extent of
+fertile country; but in Barlow's prairie there appears a fine tract of
+agricultural land inclosed by tributaries of the Willamette. Others
+succeed it, and soon good homesteads, surrounded by shade trees and
+orchards, are seen in every direction. The next town of importance is
+Salem, the State capital, beautifully situated on the sloping banks of
+the river. The capitol, and other State buildings, may be seen from the
+train; and the entire city, with its broad streets and fine oak groves,
+presents a pleasing appearance.
+
+The twenty-eight miles intervening between Salem and Albany afford some
+fine views of the Cascade Range, Mount Hood being visible at a distance
+of seventy miles, and the nearer southern peaks in still bolder
+outline. Eugene City, 123 miles from Portland, is also charmingly
+situated and finely laid out on the edge of a broad, rich prairie
+overlooked by a ridge of low hills. Its geographical position, at the
+head of navigation, commands for it the trade of a large section of
+country. It is also the seat of the State University, and is otherwise
+an educational centre of great importance.
+
+In the course of the next seventy-four miles the railroad ascends about
+2,000 feet to Roseburg, the judicial seat of Douglas county, traversed
+by another of the famous valleys of Oregon, that of the Umpqua. This was
+formerly a great stock country; but its pastures have gradually
+disappeared before the plow, and cattle have given way to grain. It is,
+moreover, a fine fruit growing region. The tourist is now approaching
+those intricate valleys which have made this line of railway from
+Roseburg to its terminus at Ashland at once so costly and so
+picturesque.
+
+Cow Creek Canon, so winding that thirty-five miles of track had to be
+laid to attain twelve miles of actual distance, abounds with wild and
+beautiful scenery. From the valley of the Umpqua, the railroad passes
+into that of the Rogue river, in Josephine county. This county is
+equally famed for its natural beauty, its healthful climate and the
+wonderful productiveness of its soil. Grains, fruits and vegetables of
+every description, yield prodigiously, and their quality is not to be
+surpassed.
+
+The great attractions of the county for the tourist are the two
+limestone caves situated thirty miles south of Grant's Pass, and fifteen
+miles east of Kerbyville. There is said to be a good wagon road from the
+latter place to within five miles of these caves, and arrangements are
+in progress for the early completion of the road. According to an
+official publication of the county, there is another route, _via_
+Williams Creek, by wagon road, to within eight miles of the caves, and
+thence, by a mountain trail, on horseback. The scenery along this route
+is stated to be grand beyond description, embracing many of the lovely
+valleys of this charming county, and, in the distance, the snow-capped
+mountains of the Cascade Range, terminating in the tremendous peak of
+Mount Shasta. The caves themselves consist each of a series of chambers,
+adorned with beautiful stalactites of prismatic colors, and other
+curious and delicate formations, presenting exquisite patterns, and
+sparkling with the lustre of diamonds.
+
+At Ashland, 341 miles from Portland, the tourist arrives at the southern
+terminus of the road. Connection is made with the California and Oregon
+Railroad, at Delta, California, by stage. This is an exceedingly
+enjoyable stage ride, the first twenty miles of the journey being over
+the Siskiyou Mountains, from whose summits the long Sierra Nevada and
+Cascade Range can be traced for nearly 200 miles.
+
+No tourist should return East without first taking a trip down the
+
+
+                              LOWER COLUMBIA
+
+to Astoria, that city of most interesting historical associations, and
+no little actual importance in these stirring days of trade and
+manufactures. Admirably appointed steamers, making fast time, run daily
+between Portland and Astoria. The trip need not, therefore, occupy more
+than two days. The distance from Portland to the point at which the
+Willamette discharges itself into the Columbia, is twelve miles, in the
+course of which opportunity is afforded for observing the progress being
+made by the city in its manufacturing and other enterprises. The busy
+wharves are also passed, and the stately ships riding at anchor.
+
+[Illustration: MOUNT TACOMA.]
+
+After the first few miles of the Columbia the tourist may be surprised
+to find that the scenery of the lower river is far from being tame or
+monotonous. The river itself winds considerably for so great a body of
+water; the forest, too, is luxuriant, and the hillsides are covered with
+heavy fir; numerous islands occur at intervals, wooded and exceedingly
+pretty. Where the river has worked its way through the Coast Mountains,
+the scenery, though not so abrupt, stern or impressive as that of the
+middle Columbia, presents many fine effects, the lofty walls of the
+river being surmounted by hills of considerable altitude.
+
+Not far from Columbia City, on the north or Washington bank of the
+stream, is an island rock known as Mount Coffin, and formerly an Indian
+place of sepulture. Here the tribes deposited the bodies of their noted
+chiefs and warriors. In his canoe, previously rendered useless, and
+with his bow and arrows, the dead hero was here laid to rest.
+
+After passing Kalama, the tourist comes upon some of the great canning
+establishments, which before long are passed at such short intervals
+that they seem to line the north bank, on which most of them are
+situated.
+
+The fisheries of the Columbia river are almost as famous as its scenery.
+The canning industry, which was first established in 1866, has within
+the last few years attained great importance. Producing the first year
+some 4,000 cases, representing, at the high price they commanded, $16
+per case, a total value of $64,000, it has steadily increased its
+product, until now it has reached upward of half a million cases. The
+catch of 1885, which was 524,530 cases, fell short of that of 1884 by
+132,000 cases, in consequence of the markets of the world being
+temporarily overstocked. It is remarkable that the supply should at all
+exceed the demand, when the gigantic extent of the industry is taken
+into consideration. The great perfection to which the methods employed
+in capturing the salmon have been brought, is probably accountable for
+the recent glut in the market. Among the most effective contrivances for
+the purpose, is the floating fish-wheel, by means of which the fish are
+literally scooped up out of the water in shoals. The industry gives
+employment to 1,500 boats, 3,000 fishermen, and 1,000 factory hands, the
+latter principally Chinese. The canning season is from April 1st to July
+31st, when the lower Columbia is alive with fishing boats, and the
+canneries are in full operation.
+
+As we approach Astoria, the river widens out into a broad estuary, some
+seven miles across. Here is Tongue Point, a bold headland running out
+into the river from the Oregon shore.
+
+In a beautiful bay between this point and Point Adams, is Astoria, built
+partly on piles, and partly on the shelving hills. For the story of its
+early history, of the arrival of John Jacob Astor's trading ship,
+"Tonquin," and of its subsequent British occupancy, the reader is
+referred to Washington Irving's delightful volume. It is sufficient to
+say that it is to-day an exceedingly interesting city to visit, not more
+on account of its being the oldest British settlement in the Northwest,
+and the central figure in the salmon fishing of the Columbia river, than
+for the novelty of its construction.
+
+Its busy wharves and abundant shipping proclaim it a seaport of
+considerable importance, requiring only a railroad or the removal of the
+barriers to the navigation of the middle Columbia, to make it a great
+city.
+
+Opposite Point Adams is Cape Hancock, formerly known as Cape
+Disappointment. On the sea-coast, both on the Washington side, north of
+Cape Hancock, and on the Oregon side, south of Point Adams, are various
+summer resorts attracting crowds of visitors during the season. On the
+Washington shore is Ilwaco, beautifully situated on the north shore of
+Baker's Bay, with a long, crescent-shaped beach of fine, white sand
+sloping to the water, and heavily wooded hills in the rear. This growing
+place, with its hotels, stores, church and school house, is rapidly
+growing in popularity. Steamers meet the Portland boat at Astoria,
+where passengers are transferred without inconvenience or delay. They
+call, both going and returning, at Cape Hancock, affording tourists an
+opportunity of visiting Fort Canby, and the great lighthouse, from which
+there is one of the most extensive and magnificent views on the entire
+Pacific coast. On the Oregon shore of the ocean are Clatsop Beach, where
+there are good hotel accommodations and excellent hunting and fishing,
+and a popular resort known as Seaside, boasting a multitude of
+attractions, including a fine ocean beach and a trout creek. Should the
+tourist be unable to make a long stay at any of these places, he ought
+at least to pay them a brief visit, if only to cross the great bar of
+the river, and to see where its mighty flood discharges itself into the
+ocean at the rate of 1,000,000 gallons per second.
+
+The climate of this section is exceedingly humid; but its summers are
+delightful. Its rainfall is mostly in winter, when it is both heavy and
+continuous. It is said, that, if a barrel, with the two ends taken out,
+be placed upon its side with the bung-hole uppermost, the rain will
+enter by that small aperture faster than it can run out at the two ends.
+For this story, however, the writer can not vouch, any more than for
+that of the recent visitor to the National Park, who is said to have
+caught, in one of the lakes of that remarkable region, a fish so large
+that, upon his dragging it ashore, the water of the lake fell six
+inches.
+
+
+                              TO PUGET SOUND.
+
+The tourist has now become more or less familiar with the natural
+features and resources of that great country lying between the Snake
+river and the Pacific Ocean, and between the Columbia river and the
+Siskiyou Mountains.
+
+There remains only Western Washington, with its extensive forests, its
+rich coal mines, its hop gardens, and its far-famed inland sea, on which
+he is to embark on his voyage to the great land of the far North. The
+Pacific division of the Northern Pacific Railroad follows the Willamette
+river from Portland to its confluence with the Columbia, and the latter
+river from that point to Kalama, where trains are conveyed across the
+river by the finest transfer boat in the world, built expressly for the
+railroad company, and constructed to carry thirty cars at one time. From
+Kalama the track strikes almost directly northward for Puget Sound,
+passing through long stretches of dense forest, but also intersecting a
+tract of country containing a larger area of fertile agricultural land
+than is contained in any other county in Western Washington.
+
+The chief towns of this region are Chehalis and Centralia, and they give
+evidence of thrift and prosperity. But the attention of the tourist as
+he travels onward is largely occupied with the magnificent peaks of the
+Cascade Range, whose forms of dazzling whiteness constitute, with their
+background of deepest blue and the dark forests which clothe their base,
+a picture of marvelous beauty. For more than one hundred miles after we
+leave Portland, there looms up behind us the graceful contour of Mount
+Hood, while to the east are seen at intervals the majestic forms of
+Mount St. Helens and Mount Adams.
+
+But the grandest scene of all is yet to come. After leaving Tenino,
+there is a revelation of almost unequaled grandeur in the view of Mount
+Tacoma, the loftiest peak of the entire range. If Mount Hood can claim
+to be considered, as is generally admitted, the most graceful and
+beautiful mountain on the Pacific coast, Mount Tacoma can certainly
+claim to be the most majestic and sublime. Towering 14,444 feet above
+sea-level, and thus exceeding by more than 3,000 feet the height of any
+other mountain in Washington or Oregon, it seems to rear its massive
+head close to the very battlements of heaven. No other mountain, even in
+the Yellowstone National Park or in the main range of the Rockies, will
+have produced so great an impression upon the traveler as will the
+mighty Tacoma. As he gazes at its majestic form, he is inclined to doubt
+whether there is in the whole world one that could establish a better
+claim to universal sovereignty. In lines that will live as long as the
+English language itself, Byron declared Mont Blanc the monarch of
+mountains. But Byron never saw the matchless Tacoma. It, too, has its
+throne of rocks, its diadem of snow, and, though less frequently than
+Mont Blanc, its robe of clouds, an adjunct of doubtful advantage except
+in the exigencies of versification.
+
+[Illustration: "THE TACOMA" TACOMA. W. T.]
+
+Mount Tacoma has, embedded in its mighty bosom, no fewer than fifteen
+glaciers, three of which have been rendered accessible to visitors.
+Comparing them with the glaciers of the Alps, Senator Edmunds, of
+Vermont, declares that the finest effects he witnessed during the course
+of a long tour in Switzerland, fell far short of what he saw on his
+visit to Mount Tacoma. At the great hotel, at Tacoma City, guides and
+camping outfits are always obtainable. Excursion parties are frequently
+made up during the summer season, the trip being entirely free from
+difficulty or danger, even to ladies.
+
+It is at the city of Tacoma that the tourist first looks over the blue
+waters of Puget Sound. This is the western terminus of the Northern
+Pacific Railroad. Occupying a commanding position upon a high plateau
+overlooking Admiralty Inlet, Tacoma has an excellent harbor, capable of
+receiving the largest ocean-going vessels. It has also some fine public
+buildings, among them being the Anna Wright Seminary for girls, a
+monument of the beneficence of Mr. C. B. Wright, of Philadelphia. Its
+luxuriously furnished hotel, the Tacoma, erected at a cost of $200,000,
+occupies one of the finest sites in the world, overlooking, as it does,
+the picturesque shores of the bay, and commanding a magnificent view of
+the imperial mountain.
+
+A few miles northward is Seattle, also with an excellent harbor, and the
+promise of becoming a city of great importance, an extensive section of
+rich country being naturally tributary to it.
+
+There is no more delightful climate than that of Puget Sound. The
+summers are cool, the maximum temperature at Tacoma in the summer of
+1884 being eighty-nine degrees, and in that of 1885, eighty-five degrees
+only.
+
+The Cascade division of the railroad, extending eastward from Tacoma, is
+developing a very rich bituminous coal country, and great quantities of
+the mineral are being shipped from Tacoma, where immense bunkers have
+been erected to facilitate its exportation. This line also reaches the
+fine hop growing country of the Puyallup valley, whose product has
+steadily risen in Eastern markets, until now it commands as high a price
+as that of the State of New York.
+
+But never was the tourist less disposed than now to concern himself with
+agricultural or commercial statistics. With eager expectation, impatient
+of delay, he is hastening toward that veritable Wonderland of the World
+that constitutes the Mecca of his pilgrimage. He is about to enter upon
+the final stage of his long journey, in that far-famed Inland Passage,
+whose incomparable scenery, extending in one unbroken chain for more
+than a thousand miles, alone surpasses those stupendous works of Nature
+upon which he has so recently gazed.
+
+                                                              JOHN HYDE.
+
+
+
+
+                     ALASKA AND THE INLAND PASSAGE.
+
+
+Man travels for business and pleasure. The former can be easily
+described, by a slight interpolation in a well-known mathematical
+definition, as "the shortest distance and quickest time between two
+points." The latter bears to this mathematical rectilinear exactness the
+relation of the curves,--Hogarth's "line of beauty," the rotund circle
+and graceful sweep of the Archimedean spiral, and bends of beauty beyond
+computation; and, as any of these are more pleasing to the eye than the
+stiff straight line, so any tourist's jaunt is more pleasing to all the
+senses than the business man's travels. But, as all straight lines are
+alike, and all curves are different, so are their equivalents in travel,
+to which we have alluded. One tourist, as a Nimrod, dons his hunting
+shirt and high-topped boots, and, seeking the solemn recesses of the
+Rockies, slays the grizzly and mountain lion, and thus has his "good
+time;" another drives through the grand old gorges of the Yellowstone
+Park, and the deep impressions left by a lofty nature are his ample
+rewards; and yet again, where physical exertion is to be avoided by
+delicate ones or those averse to its peculiarities, one may float down
+the distant Columbia, with its colossal contours, and, without even
+lifting a finger to aid one's progress, view as vast and stupendous
+scenery as the world can produce. Thus each place suits each varying
+disposition, from the most roystering "roughing it," developing the
+muscles in mighty knots, to where the most ponderous panorama of nature
+may be enjoyed from a moving mansion, as it were. Could we conceive a
+place where all these advantages would be united into one, or where one
+after the other might be indulged at pleasure, we would certainly have a
+tourists' paradise, an ever-to-be-sought and never-to-be-forgotten nook
+of creation. Such a tour is to be encountered on "the inland passage to
+Alaska," as it is called by those knowing it best.
+
+In this rough, rocky region, Nature has been prodigal of both land and
+water,--making the former high and picturesque, and the latter deep and
+navigable, and running in all directions through the other, apparently
+for the purpose that it might be easily viewed. From the northwest
+corner of Washington Territory, through all of the coast line of British
+Columbia, and along Alaska's shores to the long-cast shadows of Mount
+St. Elias, stretches for nearly two thousand miles a picturesque
+panorama that seems as if the Yellowstone, the Yosemite, Colorado, and
+Switzerland and the Alps, were passing in review before the spectator;
+and, when the greatest northing is gained, Greenland and Norway have
+added their glacier-crowned and iceberg-bearing vistas to the view. It
+looks as if the Yellowstone National Park had sunk into the sea until
+the valleys were waterways, and the feet of the high mountains had been
+converted into shores. A grand salt-water river it is that stretches
+from Puget Sound, itself a beautiful sheet of water, to our distant
+colony of Alaska, a good round thousand miles, and whose waters are as
+quiet as an Alpine lake, even though a fierce gale rage on the broad
+Pacific outside.
+
+Beyond the parallel of Sitka, though the grand scenery may be no more
+imposing than that through which the tourist will have passed in coming
+from Washington Territory, he will find some of the curiosities of
+nature which are to be found only in the dreaded frigid zones,--icebergs
+and glaciers. Before the waters of Northwestern Washington Territory are
+out of sight, great patches of snow are to be seen on the highest of the
+grand mountains bordering the inland passage. These little white
+blotches in the northern gullies become larger and larger as the
+excursion steamer wends her way northward, until the loftiest peaks are
+crowned with snow. Then, across connecting ridges, they join their white
+mantles; and, in a few more miles, the blue ice of glaciers peeps from
+out the lower edges of the deep snow. Lower and lower they descend as
+the steamer crawls northward, until the upper parts of the passage are
+essayed, when they have come to the ocean's level, and, plunging into
+the sea, snap off at intervals, and float away as icebergs, some of them
+higher than the masts of the large, commodious steamers that bear
+tourists to this fairy-land of the frigid zones, if one can be allowed
+such an expression. Glacier Bay, which the excursion steamers visit on
+their summer trips, has a great number of these frozen rivers of ice
+debouching into it; and its clear, quiet waters, reflecting the Alpine
+scenery of its shores, are ruffled only by the breaking of the icebergs
+from the terminal fronts of the glacier, that send waves across its
+whole breadth, and with a noise like the firing of a sea-coast cannon.
+Muir Glacier is the greatest of this grand group, and surpasses anything
+nearer than the polar zones themselves. There is no use in going into
+mathematical measurements,--its two and three hundred feet in height and
+its breadth of several miles; for they but feebly represent its
+grandeur, the deep impressions that figures can not measure when viewing
+this frozen Niagara of the North. Not until the blue Adriatic has
+pierced its way into the heart of the high Alps, or some ocean inlet has
+invaded the valleys of the vast Yellowstone Park, will we ever have an
+equivalent to this display of Nature's noblest efforts in scenic
+effects. Were the other scenery as monotonous as the ceaseless plains, a
+visit to the Alaskan glaciers and icebergs would well repay any one's
+time and effort; but, when the tourist travels through the greatest
+Wonderland of the wide West to reach these curious sights, he or she
+will be paid over and over tenfold.
+
+So far everything may be seen from the decks of an elegant steamer; but,
+should the tourist want a little "roughing it," let him stop over in
+Glacier Bay, from one steamer's visit to another, two weeks to a month
+apart, and clamber over the glaciers and row around among the icebergs
+to his heart's content, and until he almost imagines he is an arctic
+explorer. He will descend from the tumbled surface of the frozen seas of
+ice on the glacier's surface, only to wade through grass up to his
+waist, that waves in the light winds like the pretty pampas fields of
+South America. In these fields of grasses he may pitch his tent, which,
+with a cook stove and a month's rations for each person, is all that is
+needed, beyond the baggage of the other tourists. Hunting is found in
+the mountains back of the bay, fish in the waters, and small game in the
+woods near by.
+
+Or, if longer and rougher jaunts are wanted, ascend the Lynn Channel,
+and then the Chilkat, or Chilkoot, Inlet, hiring two or three Indians to
+carry one's camping effects on their backs to the lakes at the source of
+the great Yukon river of the British Northwest Territory and
+Alaska,--the third river of America. Going by the Chilkoot trail, over
+the Alaskan coast range of mountains, which will furnish Alpine climbing
+enough to suit the most eager, on snow and glacier ice, one comes to a
+series of lakes aggregating 150 miles in extent; and along these he may
+paddle and return, shooting an occasional brown or black bear, moose,
+caribou or mountain goat, while aquatic life is everywhere on these
+pretty Alpine lakes.
+
+Throughout the whole inland passage, one is passing now and then some
+Indian village, of more or less imposing appearance and numbers. In
+Alaska they all belong to a single great tribe, the T'linkit, bound
+together by a common language, but by no stronger ties, for each
+village, or cluster of villages, makes a sub-tribe, having no sympathies
+with the other, and they often war against one another.
+
+It is not often that one would want to call a tourist's attention to an
+Indian village, for the average encampment or habitation of the "noble
+red man" is not the most attractive sight or study; but, in the T'linkit
+towns, we have no such hesitation, for, in the curiosities to be seen in
+their houses and surroundings, they are certainly one of the strangest
+people on earth. They are the artistic savages of the world. In front of
+each log house, and often rearing its head much higher than it by two or
+three fold, are one or two posts, called "totem poles," which are merely
+logs on end; but, on the seaward face, the savage sculptor has exhausted
+all the resources of his barbaric imagination in cutting in hideous
+faces and figures, that, with a hundred or so such terrible "totems" in
+front of a village, makes one think of some nightmare of his childish
+days. The houses, too, are carved inside and out. Every utensil they
+have is sculptured deep with diabolical but well executed designs, and
+their spoons of mountain sheep and goat horn are marvels of savage work.
+All these are for sale to tourists, and every excursion steamer brings
+numbers of these romantic remembrances of a yet more romantic journey
+back to civilization.
+
+But the inland passage to Alaska is not the only grand and picturesque
+part of that great territory visited by the excursion steamers; for
+beyond and as far as Mount St. Elias, they often sail to this the
+greatest cluster of high mountains on the Western Continent,--Lituya
+Peak, 10,000 feet high; and Fairweather and Crillon, a third taller;
+then beyond, Cook and Vancouver cluster near sublime St. Elias, nearly
+20,000 feet above the ocean that thunders at its base, and whose jagged
+top may be seen a hundred and fifty miles to sea. How disappointing are
+the Colorado peaks of 12,000 and 14,000 feet to one, for the simple
+reason that they spring from a plain already 6,000 to 8,000 feet above
+sea-level, and seem, as they are, but high hills on a high plateau. How
+like pygmies they appear to Hood, Tacoma, Shasta, and others not so high
+above the ocean base line, but whose nearly every foot above sea-level
+is in mountain slope. How grand, then, must be hoary-headed St. Elias,
+whose waist is the waters of the wide sea, and whose 20,000 feet above
+sea-level springs from the Pacific Ocean, from whose calm waters we view
+its majestic height.
+
+But let us commence at the starting point of our journey, and take our
+readers step by step over the whole route.
+
+For many years the people of our great Northwest country, Oregon,
+Washington and Idaho Territories, have spoken familiarly of "the Sound"
+as one of their great geographical features,--in much the same way as
+the people of Southern Connecticut or Long Island speak of "the
+Sound,"--referring thereby to Puget Sound, that cuts deep into the
+northwestern corner of Washington Territory. Many have visited it, and
+sailed on its beautiful waters; beautiful enough in themselves or their
+own immediate surroundings, but thrice grand and gorgeous in their
+silver framing of snow-clad peaks and mountain ranges, surrounding them
+on all sides. The long, narrow, picturesque sound, that looked not
+unlike a Greenland fjord, or close-walled bay at the mouth of some grand
+river,--one of those bays so slowly converging that a person can hardly
+define where it ceases and the river commences,--was considered one of
+the most beautiful and scenic places of the Northwest; and its people
+delighted to show it to strangers, with its enhancing surroundings,
+reaching from the prettily situated capital of the Territory, Olympia,
+at the head of "the sound," to where the broad Juan de Fuca Strait leads
+to the great Pacific Sea. Then Alaska was known only as Russian America,
+when it was spoken of at all, so seldom was it heard, and seemed to be
+as far away from the United States on that side of the continent, and as
+little thought of, as Greenland or Iceland is to-day with our people of
+the Atlantic coast. An occasional Hudson's Bay Company trading boat
+steamed out of Victoria harbor, and disappeared northward, crawling
+through a maze of intricate inland channels and Alpine-like waterways to
+some distant and seemingly half-mythical trading post of that lonesome
+land; but, as to anything definite as to where she was going, as little
+was known by the people as if an arctic expedition was leaving the
+harbor of New York or Boston, and not one hundredth of the _furor_ was
+made about the departure, if, in fact, any notice was taken of it at
+all. With the accession of Alaska, through the efforts of Secretary
+Seward and Senator Sumner, the discovery of the Cassiar mines, in
+British Columbia, but which must be reached through Alaska, and a few
+other minor incentives, set many people to looking northward; they then
+found that they could continue their trips on a long inland salt-water
+river, of which the well-known Puget Sound was but a small part,--hardly
+the equivalent of Narragansett Bay taken from Long Island Sound, or
+Green Bay from Lake Michigan. Not that these were the first explorations
+and discoveries of importance in the inland passage and its surrounding
+woods and waters, by any manner of means. Cook and Clerke, as early as
+1776; Dixon, from 1785 to 1788; Langsdorff, in 1803-8; La Perouse, in
+1785-88; Lisianski, from 1803 to 1806; Meares, of the Royal navy, from
+1788 to 1789; and especially Vancouver, from 1790 to 1795,--had all
+peeped into this part of the country, and many of the explorations and
+surveys were of the most extended nature; but, at about the time of
+which I speak, the knowledge of the inland passage to the bulk of the
+people, even in these parts so near to it, was nearly as musty as the
+old volumes on the library shelves that gave the most information. In
+fact, but little knowledge or interest was to be found regarding these
+parts. Their history of development from that embryonic state where
+everything told is regarded as bordering on the mythical, to where a
+line of ocean steamers visits them with crowded passenger lists, is the
+usual history of such developments.
+
+The inland passage to Alaska may be said to practically extend from
+Tacoma, in Washington Territory, at the head of Puget Sound, to Chilkat,
+Alaska, at the head of Lynn Channel, a distance of nearly 1,100 miles,
+where the tourist taking a sea voyage has high shores in close proximity
+on either side of him, except a few places here and there, where a short
+communication with the ocean outside is to be had. But this "inland
+passage," so called, is not the only one leading between the points
+named. It is, rather, a Broadway in New York City, a Pennsylvania avenue
+in Washington, State street in Chicago,--i. e., the main way; but every
+few miles a vessel could turn off down another passage as readily as a
+pedestrian or vehicle could down a side street, and, continuing a short
+way, return to the main thoroughfare again. Probably all the channels
+and straits and sounds and inlets in this part of Alaska, British
+Columbia and Washington Territory, susceptible of navigation by
+fair-sized ocean and river steamers, and all of them connecting with
+each other in a perfect network of waterways, would, if placed end to
+end, reach from a quarter to a third of the way around the world. Many
+of them are so illy charted--or not charted at all--that no craft of
+value would trust herself to follow their courses, while some of the
+smaller ways, but probably none the less picturesque, have yet to bear
+the first white man on their bosom. The most picturesque of all the ways
+through this intricacy of picturesque channels has been selected,
+carefully surveyed, and experienced pilots conduct the vessels to and
+from Alaska on its waters. The whole length of the passage is heavily
+timbered with various kinds of pine, fir, hemlock, cedar and spruce.
+Here and there avalanches from the mountain tops have swept through the
+dense timber, like a sickle through so much grain; and, although in a
+few years the growth is restored, yet the varying shades of green in the
+old and new growth of trees, running in perpendicular stripes up the
+steep hillsides, plainly show the ancient and recent devastations.
+Prettily situated Indian villages dot the narrow, shelving shores at
+rare intervals along the passage; and, when these nomads of the
+Northwest are seen, which is not infrequent, the chances are more than
+likely that it will be in a canoe, where they spend two-thirds of their
+out-of-door life.
+
+Says the "American Cyclopaedia," speaking of this interesting part of
+Washington Territory, the southern part of the inland passage:
+"Washington Territory possesses a great multitude of harbors, perhaps
+more than any other country of equal extent on the globe. Puget Sound,
+which has an average width of two miles, never less than one nor more
+than four, and a depth never less than eight fathoms, runs 100 miles
+inland in a southward direction from the Straits of Fuca; and Hood's
+Canal, twelve miles further west, with half the width, runs in the same
+general direction about 60 miles. These two great estuaries, or arms of
+tidewater, have depth sufficient for the largest vessels, and numerous
+bends and corners where the most perfect protection may be found against
+the winds." Captain Wilkes, in the report of his famous exploring
+expedition, writes of Puget Sound: "I venture nothing in saying there is
+no country in the world that possesses waters equal to these." The Coast
+Range and Cascade Range of mountains are plainly visible from the sound.
+Near the Columbia river the Coast Range is not very high; but west of
+Hood's Canal it rises, in abrupt, beetling ridges, 7,000 to 9,000 feet
+high, called the Olympian Mountains, many of the peaks being
+snow-crowned throughout the year. The Cascade Range fairly bristles with
+snow-clad peaks from 8,000 to over 14,000 feet in height, and in every
+direction, almost, may be seen the grandest Alpine scenery in the
+distance.
+
+Steaming northward through Puget Sound from Tacoma, with Seattle and
+other towns upon our right, and Port Townsend, the port of entry to the
+sound, upon our left, we come to Juan de Fuca Strait, which would lead
+us to the Pacific Ocean were we to follow it out. It is the most
+southern of all the waterways that connect the great sea with the
+network of channels inside, and formerly was much used as a part of the
+route to Alaska or Puget Sound from Portland, Oregon, or San Francisco,
+California; the steamer putting out to sea for a day if from the former
+port, and for four or five if from the latter, the passengers having all
+the discomforts of a sea voyage for that time. Where Magellan sailed
+over the Pacific Ocean it well deserved the name; but along the rough
+northern coast the amount of stormy weather increases, and a voyage on
+this part of the Pacific is not always calculated to impress one with
+the appropriateness of the great ocean's name. The construction of the
+Northern Pacific Railroad from the Columbia river to Puget Sound has
+made these sea voyages unnecessary to reach a port on the inland
+passage; and, unless a person's stomach is built on "nautical lines," so
+that he really enjoys an ocean trip, he can save this discomfort by a
+cut across lots on a railroad train. In fact, it must be kept in mind,
+that, while the trip on the inland passage is an ocean voyage, equal to
+one from New York City to Havana and return, it is, as far as
+sea-sickness is concerned, as if the Hudson river was turned around in
+the opposite direction, and we sailed on its waters from New York to
+Havana and return; while the inland passage, in its southern part, is as
+accessible by railroad travel, to the people of the United States and
+Canada, as any point on the Hudson river. Therefore, broad Juan de Fuca
+Strait, where the pulsations of the ocean's life outside are even felt
+to its eastern end, in much diminished waves, however, carries fewer
+persons than formerly, and especially of that reluctant class who look
+uncomplainingly at the terrors of the sea, from the basis of dire
+necessity.
+
+Crossing this strait, which has led to so many controversies as to
+whether the old Greek from whom it is named actually discovered this
+beautiful body of water, or only made a lucky guess in publishing to the
+world a mythical journey of his, we sight and bear down on the beautiful
+British island of Vancouver, whose metropolis is Victoria, and alongside
+of whose docks we shall soon be made fast.
+
+Victoria, the city, was built on the site of old Fort Victoria, a Hudson
+Bay Company trading post of that great British monopoly that held nearly
+all British America under its control for two hundred years, and,
+although broken as a monopoly, has yet an influence to assist or retard
+the development of the country which is incalculable. The Fraser river
+gold mine excitement in the '50's did much to build up Victoria, and
+send it forward into the front rank of Pacific coast cities, a position
+which she has held with varying fortunes, though now, in common with the
+whole Northwest, once more on the ascending wave.
+
+Cities, like individuals, have their "hobbies," although seldom so
+prominently marked; and the municipal "hobby" of Victoria is her
+splendidly constructed roads, leading through the town and far beyond
+the suburbs, and in which she has no superior on the Pacific coast of
+North America, and but few in the world. If the steamer remains long
+enough in the harbor,--and during excursion times in the summer months
+they always do,--a drive should be taken on the Victoria roads, and
+especially the one leading to Esquimalt harbor and return, some two or
+three miles in all. It is but one, however, of the many beautiful
+drives; but it is only necessary to mention them in a general way for
+any one who would desire to test them, so readily can all needed
+information be found on the spot.
+
+In quaint little smoke-stained and dingy-looking stores in
+out-of-the-way nooks and corners of the streets are to be found the
+Victorian curiosity shops, crowded with relics of the fast-disappearing
+Indian tribes that once formed a much denser population in this part of
+the country than at present. Pretty little mats and baskets are made
+from the sea-grass, dyed with the juices from berries and other natural
+dyes, and sold for the merest trifles. Curiously carved steatite houses,
+in miniature imitation of the Indian dwellings, and "totem poles" made
+by the Hydah or Haida Indians, are to be seen for sale. Sometimes they
+carve plaques with spread-eagles and other fanciful designs upon them;
+rude but serviceable mats from the inner bark of the cedar tree, and all
+the known--and unknown--knick-knacks that can come from the barbaric
+ingenuity of Indian art, and which would require a pamphlet larger than
+the one in the reader's hands to chronicle half. This is the beginning
+of such curious wares that will be temptingly displayed before the
+tourist at every town and stopping place on the route, and from which
+may be selected such mementoes of the journey as will please the
+individual fancy.
+
+Says a writer in the _Overland Monthly_, the _Century Magazine_ of the
+Pacific coast: "Victoria, in a rock-bound and land-protected cove, is
+the most attractive and the largest city on Vancouver's Island. During
+the days of the Fraser river excitement, Victoria was a much more
+energetic city than it is to-day. There were exciting times there then,
+and, because of the great expectations which everybody indulged in, land
+was bid up to an enormously high figure, and the town's prospects were
+considered wonderfully brilliant. But the Fraser was a fraud,
+comparatively, and its mines were quickly exhausted, so that Victoria
+received a setback, from which it is only just recovering. It is a
+picturesque town, thoroughly English, staid and conservative, and its
+location is an enviable one. In the distance rise the blue-hued heights
+of the Vancouver ranges, and nearer at hand lie the waters of Fuca
+Straits; beyond which there can be seen the snowy peaks of the
+Washington Territory mountains. Rounding the long point of land which
+juts out into the sea to form Victoria harbor, the town lay all revealed
+to us at last. In one direction were red painted shops set upon a high
+bluff overlooking the bay, and eastward there were green fields and
+trimly built cottages.
+
+"'Coming ashore?' we were asked at length.
+
+"'Not to-day,' the artist said.
+
+"'Then, don't judge Victoria until you see the place,' came the word
+from the dock.
+
+"We promised, and said that when homeward bound we would make a call."
+
+Returning, the narrator continues, "On the wharf at Victoria stood our
+friend of a month ago.
+
+"'Coming ashore?' he said, when he saw us.
+
+"'Yes.'
+
+"'Good, we can show you a pretty town. Disappointed in Alaska?'
+
+"'No; it's the grandest country for scenery I--' began the artist.
+
+"'Yes, yes, I know,' said our friend, interrupting him. 'Big glaciers,
+fine sailing, curious sights, no sea-sickness. Same old story; hear it
+every trip.'
+
+"Victoria is picturesque in every detail," continues the narrator. "The
+land faces a land-locked bay, and behind the place stretch dense
+forests, through which roadways extend to the various suburbs. During
+our stay the frosts of early fall began to color the leaves, and at
+night the air grew sharp and chill. But still the air was clear, and
+down in the harbor white-winged yachts still moved over the bluish
+waters."
+
+Vancouver Island, which forms the outlying barrier to, or seaward side
+of, the inland passage from Juan de Fuca Strait to Queen Charlotte
+Sound, is one of the largest islands in that vast archipelago which
+forms the passage, and is the largest under British dominion. It was
+called Quadra Island by the Spaniards, who held it by descent from
+Mexico (then a Spanish colony) until the latter part of the eighteenth
+century, when Vancouver, of the Royal navy, was sent from England to
+receive its surrender from the Spanish; it having been ordered by the
+home government at Madrid,--which he did from the Castilian governor,
+Quadra. Vancouver called it Quadra and Vancouver's Island; but the
+Spanish title has slowly disappeared under British rule. Vancouver
+pushed his discoveries from here to Cook's Inlet during his two or three
+years' cruise on this coast, and many of the names in the inland passage
+and adjacent lands and waters are due to his explorations made nearly a
+hundred years ago.
+
+Leaving Victoria and its picturesque surroundings behind us, we swing in
+a huge circle around the southeastern coast of Vancouver Island, until
+we are pointed northward once more.
+
+Strictly speaking, "the inland passage to Alaska, as defined by nautical
+men, now begins, Puget Sound only belonging to it in a geographical
+sense, but as similar thereto as 'peas in a pod.'" We shortly after pass
+through a congerie of pretty islands, like the Thousand Islands of the
+St Lawrence on a greatly magnified scale, when we come to the Gulf of
+Georgia, one of the widest portions of the inland passage. The islands
+we have left to the right (although it may change by the pilot not
+taking the usual route, so many are they to choose from) are the San
+Juan Islands, of far more importance than one would believe, looking at
+the unpopulated shores; at least, they were so in 1856, when the United
+States and Great Britain came very near coming to national blows about
+their possession. The matter was finally left to arbitration in the
+hands of the Emperor of Brazil, and then transferred to the present
+Emperor of Germany, who awarded them to the United States. The British
+troops then withdrew, a post of them having been on one end of the large
+island, with an American post on the other.
+
+As we steam through the Gulf of Georgia we leave the highest point
+(Point Roberts) of the United States off to our right, in the distance,
+on the forty-ninth parallel.
+
+Some forty or fifty miles farther on, and we enter the first typical
+waters of the inland passage,--Discovery Passage,--a narrow waterway
+between high, mountainous banks; a great salt-water, river-like channel,
+about a mile in breadth, and twenty-three and a half miles long by the
+British Admiralty charts. A huge yellow bluff, projecting into the sea,
+greets the eye as the passage is approached, and the great, wide channel
+to the east is the one the tourist has selected as a matter of course
+for the steamer to pursue; but she agreeably disappoints him, and enters
+the narrow, picturesque way. This Discovery Passage is a Yankee "find,"
+having first been entered by a Boston sloop, the "Washington," in 1789.
+The broad right-hand passage could have been taken, as the land to our
+right is an island (of which the yellow clay bluff is the southern
+cape), called Valdez Island after an ancient mariner who visited this
+part of the world in 1792, in the Spanish galleon "Mexicana." At first
+one is slightly nonplused at the frequency of Spanish names in these
+quarters; but, as the early history of the country is closely searched,
+the conclusion is forced on one more and more that these old Castilian
+navigators have not even got their dues, and, where their names once
+formed an honorable majority, they have slowly disappeared before the
+constant revisions of the geographers and hydrographers of another
+people, who have since acquired possession. We will come to many such
+changes of nomenclature on our interesting trip.
+
+About two miles from the entrance to Discovery Passage we come to the
+Indian Village of Yaculta, on Valdez Island. It is the first of many we
+will see before we return to Victoria again, and, like most of them, it
+is on one of the narrow, level places between the high hills and the
+deep sea that happens here and there in this Alpine country; or its
+inhabitants would have to live in the trees on the steep hillsides, or
+in their canoes on the water. The large river coming in from the
+Vancouver Island side, some five or six miles from the entrance to the
+passage, is Campbell river, and is navigable for some distance inland by
+boats and canoes.
+
+About half way through Discovery Passage we come to the Seymour Narrows,
+a contracted channel of the passage, about two miles long, and not much
+over one-fourth the previous width, where the tides rush through with
+the velocity of the swiftest rivers (said to be nine knots at
+spring-tides), a current which is so strong that it is generally
+calculated upon in departing from Victoria so as to reach this point
+about slack water. In the narrows is a submerged rock, with the
+pretty-sounding alliterative title of Ripple Rock, on which the United
+States man-of-war "Saranac" was lost in the summer of 1875. Ripple Rock
+is now so well marked that it is no longer dangerous to navigation.
+Northward from the narrows the hills rise in bold gradients, making the
+change quite noticeable, and more picturesque.
+
+Chatham Point marks the northern entrance to Discovery Passage, and here
+the tourist apparently sees the inland passage bearing off slightly to
+the east from this cape, when, with a sudden swerve to the westward, the
+ship swings around at full right angles to her original course, and
+enters a channel which a minute before seemed to be but a bay on the
+west side of the original water-way. The new channel is Johnstone
+Strait, and is over twice as long as Discovery Passage, that we have
+just left; or, to be more exact, about fifty-five miles in length. The
+shores are now getting truly mountainous in character, ridges and peaks
+on the south side bearing snow throughout the summer on their summits,
+4,000 to 5,000 feet high, and the pilot will tell you that the waters on
+which you are sailing correspond in their dimensions, in many places 100
+to 150 fathoms of line failing to reach bottom. The rough and rugged
+islands which we pass to our right, about three or four miles beyond
+Chatham Point, are the Pender Islands. The high mountains to the left
+and front are the Prince of Wales range. About fifteen to twenty miles
+after entering Johnstone Strait, a conspicuous valley is seen on
+Vancouver Island, the only break in the high mountain range on that
+side. It is the valley of a stream called Salmon river, named from that
+delicious fish, which here abound, and in the pursuit of which the
+Indians have shown this stream to be navigable for canoes for a number
+of miles inland. A conspicuous conical hill, probably a thousand feet
+high, rises in the valley and marks it to the traveler. Just beyond
+Salmon river's mouth, some three miles, the strait widens, another
+joining it from the north. The mountains to our left are now the New
+Castle range, Mount Palmerston attaining the height of 5,000 feet. At
+the northern end of Johnstone Strait we have a number of channels to
+choose from,--Blackfish Sound, Weynton Passage, Race Passage and
+Broughton Strait, the longest of all, and only fifteen miles in length,
+which we take. All these channels simply indicate that there is a
+cluster of islands where Johnstone Strait swells out into Queen
+Charlotte Sound, which we enter as Broughton Strait is left behind, and
+that as we select between different islands we take a different-named
+channel. These particular islands are the Malcolm Islands, sometimes
+confined in its application to the largest island. About half way
+through the Broughton Strait comes in the Nimpkish river from the
+Vancouver side. Mount Holdsworth is the high, conical peak we see to the
+south from here. At the mouth of the river is the Indian village of
+Cheslakee. It is said that an ascent of this river reveals the most
+picturesque scenery in lakes and falls, a saying to which all the
+surroundings in the inland passage itself, at this point, would give the
+most ample corroboration. Directly north from the river's mouth is
+Cormorant Island, which we leave to our right; and the bay in its side
+is Alert Bay, where exist a salmon cannery, an Indian mission, a wharf
+at which ships can land, and other signs of civilization.
+
+[Illustration: SCENES IN THE INLAND PASSAGE.
+
+From Schwatka's "Along Alaska's Great River," Cassell & Co. New York.
+Publisher]
+
+Queen Charlotte Sound is one of the few openings to the Pacific Ocean.
+It is about fifty miles long, and, in some places, nearly half as wide,
+and looks like getting out to sea after having passed through the narrow
+channels just left behind. It was entered and named by Wedgeborough in
+the summer of 1786; so those visitors of 1886 to its grand waters may
+celebrate its centennial, and drink a toast to Queen Charlotte, the
+queen of King George III., and queen for fifty-seven years. About nine
+or ten miles on its waters, and to our left, is Fort Rupert, a Hudson
+Bay Company's trading post, with a large Indian village clustered around
+it. Here fruits and vegetables are grown for the local demand. About
+half way through Queen Charlotte Sound, and we pass through a narrow
+channel, twenty-two miles long, named Goletas Channel. Emerging from it,
+we leave Cape Commerell on our left side, and bid good-bye to Vancouver
+Island, for this is its northernmost cape. Near the exit from Goletas
+Channel, but by another passage, now seldom used, is where the United
+States man-of-war "Suwanee" was wrecked, on a submerged rock, in July,
+1869, when the inland passage was not so well known by pilots as it is
+now. We can now look out to sea toward the Pacific Ocean; but a short
+journey plunges us into one of the many passages ahead of us, the
+smallest, or one nearest the mainland, being taken, called Fitzhugh
+Sound. It was named in 1786 by Captain Hanna, is about forty miles long,
+and with a width of about three miles. The first island to our left on
+entering is Calvert Island. About ten miles from its southern cape is an
+indentation in the island, called Safety Cove or Port Safety, probably a
+mile deep. It was while delayed in this picturesque little harbor, in
+1885, that Mr. Charles Hallock, the well-known author on piscatorial
+pursuits, penned the following lines, descriptive of the inland passage,
+which we find in the _American Angler_ of September, 1885:
+
+"The mainland is flanked throughout nearly its entire extent by a belt
+of islands, of which the majority are sea-girt mountains. Of course,
+throughout this extended coast-line there are many islands of many
+different phases,--some of them mere rocks, to which the kelps cling for
+dear life, like stranded sailors in a storm; while others are gently
+rounded mounds, wooded with fir; and others, still, precipitous cliffs
+standing breast deep in the waves. Most aptly has this wave-washed
+region been termed an archipelago of mountains and land-locked seas.
+Steaming through the labyrinths of straits and channels which seem to
+have no outlets; straining the neck to scan the tops of snow-capped
+peaks which rise abruptly from the basin where you ride at anchor;
+watching the gambols of great whales, thresher-sharks and herds of
+sea-lions, which seem as if penned up in an aquarium, so completely are
+they enclosed by the shadowy hills,--one seems, indeed, in a new
+creation, and watches the strange forms around him with an intensity of
+interest which almost amounts to awe.
+
+"In this weird region of bottomless depths, there are no sand beaches or
+gravelly shores. All the margins of mainland and islands drop down plump
+into inky fathoms of water, and the fall of the tide only exposes the
+rank yellow weeds which cling to the damp crags and slippery rocks, and
+the mussels and barnacles which crackle and hiss when the lapping waves
+recede. * * * * * When the tide sets in, great rafts of algae, with stems
+fifty feet long, career along the surface; millions of jelly-fish and
+anemones crowded as closely as the stars in the firmament; great
+air-bulbs, with streamers floating like the long hair of female corpses;
+schools of porpoises and fin-back whale rolling and plunging headlong
+through the boiling foam; all sorts of marine and Mediterranean fauna
+pour in a ceaseless surge, like an irresistible army. Hosts of gulls
+scream overhead, or whiten the ledges, where they squat content or run
+about feeding.
+
+"Here and there along the almost perpendicular cliffs the outflow of the
+melting snow in the pockets of the mountains leaps down in dizzy
+waterfalls from heights that are higher than the Yosemite. From the
+canons which divide the foot-hills, cascades pour out into the brine,
+and all their channels are choked with salmon crowding toward the upper
+waters. I could catch them with my hands as long as my strength endured,
+so helpless and infatuated are these creatures of predestination. At the
+heads of many of these rivulets there are lakes in which dwell salmon
+trout, spotted with crimson spots as large as a pea; and the rainbow
+trout, with his iridescent lateral stripe; and his cousin germain, the
+'cut-throat trout,' slashed with carmine under the gills. And there is
+another trout, most familiar to the eye in Eastern waters, and doubly
+welcome to the sight in this far-off region--the _Salvelinus
+Canadensis_, or 'sea-trout,' which I have recognized these many years as
+a separate species. * * * Here he is in his garniture of crimson, blue
+and gold, just like his up-stream neighbors of New England and the
+Provinces. * *
+
+"The seas are full of strange species. Here the family _Percidae_ is
+regnant and supreme among the food fishes. The number of species and
+varieties is remarkable. Here are the _Embiotocidae_, or _viviparous_
+perch, which bring forth their young in litters, like cats or dogs, to
+the number of eight to forty at a time. There are no less than seventeen
+known varieties of them. Here, also, are at least fifteen varieties of
+_Scorpaenidae_, all fine table fish, which are locally known as rock-cod,
+groupers and snappers, but having no close relations at all to the
+family of _Gadidae_. I send herewith the differential characteristics of
+four of them taken near our present berth, in latitude 51 degrees 30
+minutes. The scarlet snapper seems very closely allied to the _Lutjanus
+Blackfordi_ of Eastern Florida and the Gulf of Mexico, from which he
+could scarcely be distinguished in appearance. The others are all fish
+of brilliant colors. No. 2 can scarcely be distinguished from the
+fresh-water bass of the lakes lying west of the Mississippi,--the
+_Micropterus_,--either in form, fin system or color. At Sitka I found a
+fish of exactly the same shape, but black as a sea-bass of the Atlantic
+(_Centropristis atrarius_). No. 4 belongs, I believe, to the family of
+_Chiridae_, and is locally known as a sea-trout. * * * These fish take
+salmon roe, clams, sand-worms, crabs, meat and cut-fish bait. The black
+bass of Sitka is taken alongshore with a trolling spoon. * * * The other
+fish were taken chiefly in thirty fathoms of water on the young flood
+tide.
+
+"Besides these fish, we have taken halibut, two kinds of flounder,
+skates, dogfish of several kinds and strange shapes, sharks, sculpins,
+etc.; some of the sculpins were beautifully marked in blue, red and
+brown. * * I have had several of the species painted in oil, and will
+forward them to the Smithsonian, with descriptions."
+
+But let us leave this piscatorial paradise, as painted by one who is an
+artist in his line, and wend our way through the forty miles of Fitzhugh
+Sound. Then comes Lama Passage, contracted, winding and picturesque,
+about fourteen or fifteen miles long. About half way through we pass
+very near the Indian village of Bella-Bella, and which is also a Hudson
+Bay Company trading post. The Bella-Bellas were once a large tribe
+living in these parts; but the little village, of about twenty Indian
+houses, that the tourist passes on his left, represents the greater
+portion of the tribe at present, and gives one a practical and forcible
+illustration of the disappearance of "the noble red man." A mission
+residence and a church, with the cattle on the cleared hills, give the
+place quite a civilized aspect. After Lama Passage comes Seaforth
+Channel, just as winding and pretty; the swingings to the right and
+left, in places where the passage is apparently right ahead, increase
+your respect for the pilot, and you wonder, in all these intricacies,
+like Goldsmith's village schoolmaster, "how one small head could carry
+all he knew." At Milbank Sound we look out to sea for a brief half-hour,
+and then plunge into Finlayson Channel, a typical waterway of the inland
+passage, like a great river. The sides are very high mountains, densely
+timbered nearly to the top, where snow exists the year round, forming a
+base of supplies for the beautiful waterfalls that dash down the
+precipitous heights, like silvery columns, on a deep green background.
+It is said that all the little streams of this region swarm with salmon,
+giving the Indians a most bountiful supply. Then comes Graham Reach,
+about twenty miles long; then Fraser Reach, of ten miles; and McKay
+Reach, of seven,--that could all have been given a single name, and much
+trouble have been saved. A little, irregular sheet of water, called
+Wright Sound, and Grenville Channel, "as straight as an arrow," gives us
+nearly fifty miles of rectilinear sailing.
+
+We are now getting far enough north to make the sight of snow a familiar
+one, and the dense timber is striped with perpendicular windrows, where
+large avalanches have cut their way through them in the winter, when the
+snow falls heavily in these parts. Chatham Sound is the last channel we
+essay in British domain, and a royal old sheet of water it is, with a
+width of nearly ten miles, and about three or four times as long. After
+about three hours on its bosom a great channel is opened east and west
+before us, on which the swells from the broad Pacific enter. This is
+Dixon Entrance, and the boundary between British Columbia and Alaska
+beyond, whose blue mountains we see in the distance. The islands still
+continue; and the number, in this part of Alaska alone, has been
+estimated at eleven hundred, and this, too, excludes the rocks and
+islets. Clarence Strait is the main channel as soon as Alaskan waters
+are entered; but there are others on both sides of it which may be
+taken. It is a little over a hundred miles long, and somewhat variable
+in its width. It was named by Vancouver, nearly a hundred years ago,
+after the Duke of Clarence. From Clarence Strait we enter Stickeen
+Strait; for most of the steamers call at Wrangell, and this bends us off
+of our course.
+
+Wrangell is a tumble-down, dilapidated-looking town, in a most
+beautifully picturesque situation, and the first impression is to make
+one ashamed of the displays of the human race compared with those of
+nature. It is the port to the Cassiar mines; or, better speaking, it
+was, for they have seen their palmiest days, a fact which is quite
+evident on looking at their dependency, the town of Wrangell. The
+Cassiar mines are in British Columbia, and to reach them the Stickeen
+river, emptying near Wrangell, must be ascended, itself a most
+picturesque stream, and one well worth visiting if the tourist can catch
+one of the little boats that yet occasionally depart from Wrangell to
+ascend the rushing, impetuous river. Says one writer of it, in the
+Philadelphia _Dispatch_: "The Stickeen is navigable for small steamers
+to Glenora, one hundred and fifty miles, flowing first in a general
+westerly direction, through grassy, undulating plains, darkened here and
+there with patches of evergreens; then, curving southward, and receiving
+numerous tributaries from the north, it enters the Coast Range, and
+sweeps across it to the sea through a Yosemite valley more than a
+hundred miles long, and one to three miles wide at the bottom, and from
+five thousand to eight thousand feet deep, marvelously beautiful and
+inspiring from end to end. To the appreciative tourist, sailing up the
+river through the midst of it all, the canon, for a distance of one
+hundred and ten miles, is a gallery of sublime pictures,--an unbroken
+series of majestic mountains, glaciers, falls, cascades, forests,
+groves, flowery garden spots, grassy meadows in endless variety of form
+and composition,--furniture enough for a dozen Yosemites! while, back of
+the walls, and thousands of feet above them, innumerable peaks and
+spires and domes of ice and snow tower grandly into the sky. About
+fifteen miles above the mouth of the river you come to the first of the
+great glaciers, pouring down through the forest in a shattered
+ice-cascade nearly to the level of the river. Twelve miles above this
+point a noble view is opened along the Skoot river canon--a group of
+glacier-laden Alps, from ten thousand to twelve thousand feet high.
+Thirty-five miles above the mouth of the river the most striking object
+of all comes in sight; this is the lower expansion of the great glacier,
+measuring about six miles around the 'snout,' pushed boldly forward into
+the middle of the valley among the trees, while its sources are mostly
+hidden. It takes its rise in the heart of the range, some thirty or
+forty miles away. Compared with this, the Swiss _mer de glace_ is a
+small thing. It is called the 'Ice Mountain.' The front of the snout is
+three hundred feet high, but rises rapidly back for a few miles to a
+height of about one thousand feet. Seen through gaps in the trees
+growing on one of its terminal moraines, as one sails slowly along
+against the current, the marvelous beauty of the chasms and clustered
+pinnacles shows to fine advantage in the sunshine."
+
+Wrangell's log-cabin backwoods stores are good places to search for
+Indian relics, the Stickeen Indians living in the vicinity being the
+most prolific in the manufacture of these savage curios. Leaving
+Wrangell, a westward-trending strait (Sumner Strait, after Senator
+Sumner) of forty or fifty miles carries us directly out to the Pacific
+Ocean; but an hour's run finds us turning into another passage,--Chatham
+Strait,--one of the largest of the almost innumerable channels of the
+inland passage, and which points squarely to the north. It is nearly one
+hundred and fifty miles long, and about five or six miles wide. It was
+named by Vancouver, about the end of last century, after the then Earl
+of Chatham, and is a most noble sheet of water.
+
+Formerly the pilots used to go around Cape Ommaney, and put out to sea
+in order to reach Sitka, although there was a channel leading from
+Chatham Strait thereto which saved the roughness of a sea voyage. It was
+shunned, however, by most of them, and, in getting the ominous name of
+Peril Strait, certain supposed dangers were thought to be lurking in it.
+Captain Carroll, who has spent half an ordinary lifetime in these
+waters, and done much toward practically determining their navigability,
+found that most of the peril was in the name,--at least to ships under
+his management,--and Peril Straits[A] are used nearly altogether now,
+making Sitka, though facing the Pacific Ocean, practically on the inland
+passage.
+
+    [A] The Russian name is Destruction or Pernicious Straits
+    (the reason for which appears further on), and, in its improper
+    translation to Peril Straits, many people supposed the name was
+    given on account of its dangerous navigation.
+
+Just before entering Peril Straits,--by the way, one of the most
+charming of the many channels described,--we stop at a little place
+ensconced in a narrow inlet of Chatham Strait, called Killisnoo. At
+Killisnoo the Northwest Trading Company, of Portland, Oregon, have
+erected quite extensive works for the capture and curing of cod-fish,
+which has made this something of a port, at least for Alaska. There is
+also a phosphate factory here, where phosphates are made from herring,
+after the oil is extracted. This company formerly caught whales in this
+strait; but I understand the enterprise has been partially, or wholly,
+given up as not paying; or, at least, in proportion to the new
+enterprises they have more recently opened. Around this part of
+Admiralty Island are the Kootznahoo Indians, who have been quite a
+warlike band of savages in the past, but have been quite mollified by an
+incident in their troubles, which I will give in the language of a
+correspondent to the New York _Times_, of November 23, 1884:
+
+"The Kootznahoo village, near the fishing station of Killisnoo, was the
+scene of the latest naval battle and bombardment on the coast, two years
+ago. A medicine man of the tribe who went out in a whale-boat was killed
+by the explosion of a bomb harpoon, and the Indians demanded money or a
+life as an equivalent for their loss. The Killisnoo traders did not
+respect this Indian law of atonement, and the Indians seized a white man
+for hostage. Finding that the hostage had only one eye, they declared
+him _cultus_ (bad), and sent word that they must have a whole and sound
+man, or his equivalent in blankets, to make up for their lost medicine
+man. They threatened the massacre of the settlement, and word was sent
+to Sitka for help. Captain Merriman, United States navy, went over with
+the revenue cutter 'Corwin' and the steamer 'Favorite,' and made a
+counter demand for blankets as a guarantee for their future peace and
+quiet. Failing to respond, he carried out his threat of shelling their
+village, the Indians having improved their hours of delay by removing
+their canoes, valuables and provisions. Most of the houses were
+destroyed, and the humbled Indians came to terms, and have been the most
+penitent and reliable friends of the whites ever since. They have built
+their houses now around the Killisnoo settlement; and, although Captain
+Merriman left the Territory some time ago, they all speak of him as the
+best of _tyees_, and the settlers say that the naval battle of Killisnoo
+has made life and property more secure throughout the Territory."
+
+[Illustration: AN ALASKA INDIAN HOUSE WITH TOTEM POLES.]
+
+At present the inland passage in the Territory and British Columbia is
+as safe from Indians as Broadway, in New York City, or State street,
+Chicago. In no place in the world of which I know, or have ever heard,
+are the facilities for studying Indian life so good for those who only
+spend a tourist's jaunt among them. Many people along the far Western
+railroads will remember seeing here and there a dirty group of assorted
+Indians, begging for alms, and taking full advantage of all the
+silver-plated sympathy showered upon them in that metal; for they were
+parts of the curious scenes to behold. Generally they were a slim
+delegation from some far-away agency, and a person living in Washington,
+where the Indian chiefs occasionally visit in their full regalia, would
+have a better chance to see typical Indians than the tourist, unless he
+left the road and visited their agencies, a journey of toil and trouble,
+and less welcome if the agent be a stranger. Alaska is widely different.
+From its mountainous, Alpine nature, living inland is out of the
+question; and the Indians seek the few narrow beaches and low points
+scattered here and there through the inland passage as the places
+whereon to build their little villages, and these are in as full view to
+the passing steamer as New York and Brooklyn are to a boat going up or
+down the East river channel. At rarer intervals more extensive plats of
+level or rolling land have been found; and at some of these, in
+proximity to certain places where business pursuits are carried on,
+white men have erected their little towns; and around these, again, the
+Indians have clustered their curious cabins in the most friendly way,
+giving the greatest access to tourists during even the short time that
+vessels stop at the ports to load and unload their freight. At Wrangell,
+Sitka, Pyramid Harbor, etc., are to be seen villages of Stickeens,
+Sitkas, Chilkats, Kootznahoos, etc., in close juxtaposition. In the
+_Polaris_, of Portland, Oregon, under date of November 19, 1881, I find
+the following description of the old Stickeen village, just below
+Wrangell, from the pen of the Rev. Dr. Lindsley, a well-known divine and
+missionary of the Northwest:
+
+"The next day we went to the site of the old Stickeen town. It was a
+beautiful situation, looking out upon the sea, sheltered and with sunny
+exposure. In the bay were several islands. One of them was kept sacred
+as a burial place. The tombs were visible at a distance. These were
+strong boxes raised above the ground for protection, built in the shape
+of houses, sometimes painted, and within which the remains are
+deposited. We could not but admire the rude taste, as well as the
+sentiments which were thus conveyed. The buildings were falling into
+decay; but enough remained to impress us with the fact that their
+mechanical skill was of no recent origin. The Stickeens have occupied
+the site for generations past; and here were immense wooden houses that
+might have been standing a century ago, judging from the condition of
+the wooden buildings which I had examined on the Atlantic coast, and
+which are known to have been erected before the Revolutionary War. Those
+buildings were frail; these, built of massive timbers and posts of from
+two to three feet in diameter, some round, and others squared. The
+planks for the floors were several inches thick. The mortise and tenon
+work in the frames joined with accuracy, and other mechanical
+contrivances appeared in these structures. All were large, and some
+immense. I measured one house sixty by eighty feet.
+
+[Illustration: T'LINKET BASKET WORK.
+
+(Made by the Indians of the Inland Passage.)]
+
+"The domestic life is patriarchal, several families being gathered under
+one roof. Genealogies were kept for ages, and honors and distinctions
+made hereditary. To mark these, insignia, like a coat-of-arms, were
+adopted, and in rude carvings they strove to represent them. I could
+decipher, also, the paintings that once figured these upon the posts and
+sides of houses. The eagle, the whale, the bear and the otter, and other
+animals of sea and land, were the favorites, ofttimes coupled with a
+warrior in the attitude of triumph. Gigantic representations of these
+family emblems were erected near the house, on posts, twenty to thirty
+feet high, covered with carvings of animals, and the devices stained
+with permanent pigments of black, red and blue. [See illustration on
+page 66, which is the front of a chief's house at Kaigan village.]
+Imaginary creatures resembling griffins or dragons, and reminding you of
+the mammoth animals that flourished in a distant geological period, were
+carved on the posts or pictured on the walls. Raised figures resembling
+hieroglyphics and Asiatic alphabets were carved on the inside wall. Some
+of the posts containing the family coat-of-arms, thus highly carved and
+decorated according to the native taste, were used as receptacles for
+the remains of the dead, gathered up after cremation. Great sacredness
+was attached to them. To injure one was to insult the family to which it
+belonged; to cut one down was an unpardonable offense.
+
+"The description which I have now given will answer, with some
+unimportant differences, for the native houses as they are found
+elsewhere."
+
+Of the readiness of these Indians to give exhibitions of their savage
+manners and customs for their visitors,--and which one will seldom see
+elsewhere, and never with so little trouble and effort on the
+spectator's part,--Dr. Lindsley says: "By previous invitation, the
+missionaries and their guests assembled at the house of Tow-ah-att, a
+_tyee_, or chief of the Stickeen tribe. An exhibition of manners and
+customs had been prepared for us, to show us what Indian life had been.
+* * * The insignia on Tow-ah-att's house were the eagle and wolf,
+marking the union of two families. A brief address of welcome introduced
+the entertainment. Among the customs shown to us by the dramatic
+representation, were a warrior with blackened face, with spear and
+helmet, and with belt containing a two-edged knife, or dagger; a chief
+in full dress made of skins and a robe made of the wool of a mountain
+sheep. [For this robe see the illustration on page 81.] Each of these
+presented an imposing appearance. After these, masks and effigies
+appeared; next, a _potlatch_ dance, in which a large number of the
+natives of both sexes engaged. This was followed by dances which were
+used only upon notable occasions which might be called sacred or
+religious. These dances and the chants were regarded by the natives with
+a species of veneration. We were struck with the comparative excellence
+of the singing which accompanied these dances, displaying a considerable
+amount of culture. Evidently much practice had been bestowed upon the
+art, as the large number, young and old, who engaged in them, observed
+the musical rests and parts with great precision. A large number of
+whites and Indians were present at this entertainment, and the house was
+not crowded. Our entertainers observed some formalities which could do
+no discredit to the most enlightened assemblies. After an address of
+welcome, and short speeches from visitors, one of the chiefs,
+Tow-ah-att, delivered a formal discourse."
+
+Mr. Ivan Petroff, a Russian, of Alaska, who was deputized by the
+Superintendent of the United States Census of 1880 to collect statistics
+for his report regarding Alaska Territory, finds the following
+interesting items regarding the Indian tribes which the tourist will
+encounter in his trip to Southeastern Alaska:
+
+"The outward characteristics of the T'linkit tribe may be enumerated as
+follows: The coarse, stiff, coal-black hair, dark eyebrows, but faintly
+delineated over the large black eyes full of expression; protruding
+cheek bones; thick, full lips (the under lips of the women disfigured by
+the custom of inserting round or oval pieces of wood or bone), and the
+septum of the men pierced for the purpose of inserting ornaments;
+beautiful white teeth; ears pierced not only in the lobes, but all
+around the rim. To these may be added the dark color of the skin, a
+medium stature, and a proud, erect bearing (this only applies to the
+men). The hands of the women are very small, and large feet are rarely
+met with.
+
+"Before their acquaintance with the Russians, the only clothing of the
+T'linkits consisted of skins sewed together, which they threw around
+their naked bodies without regard to custom or fashion. In addition to
+this, they wore, on festive occasions, blankets woven out of the fleeces
+of mountain goats. From time immemorial they have possessed the art of
+dyeing this material black and yellow by means of charcoal and a kind of
+moss called _sekhone_. The patterns of these blankets, wrought in
+colors, exhibit an astonishing degree of skill and industry; the hat,
+plaited of roots, is also ornamented with figures and representations of
+animals.
+
+"Both men and women paint their faces black and red with charcoal or
+soot, and vermilion (cinnabar), which are their favorite colors. They
+are mixed with seal oil, and rubbed well into the cuticle; subsequently,
+figures and patterns are scratched upon this surface with sticks of
+wood. The wealthy T'linkits paint their faces every day, while the
+plebeians indulge in this luxury only occasionally. As a rule, the
+T'linkits of both sexes go barefooted.
+
+"The men pierce the partition of the nose, the operation being performed
+in early childhood, frequently within a few weeks after birth. In the
+aperture thus made a silver ring is sometimes inserted large enough to
+cover the mouth; but the poorer individuals insert other articles, such
+as feathers, etc. They also pierce the lobes of the ear for the purpose
+of inserting shark's teeth, shells, and other ornaments, while through
+the holes around the rim of the ear they draw bits of red worsted or
+small feathers. Veniaminoff states that each hole in the ear was pierced
+in memory of some event or deed.
+
+"The ornamentation of the under lip of a female (now almost obsolete)
+marked an epoch in her life. As long as she remained single she wore
+this; but, as soon as she was married, a larger piece of wood or bone
+was pressed into the opening, and annually replaced by a still larger
+one, the inner side being hollowed out. It was, of course, impossible
+for these individuals to close their mouths, the under lip protruding,
+distended by the disk of wood or bone.
+
+"Veniaminoff states that among the T'linkits the married women are
+permitted to have what are called 'assistant husbands,' who are
+maintained by the wives. Among the T'linkits the office of vice-husband
+can only be filled by a brother or near relative of the husband.
+
+"The T'linkits burn their dead upon funeral pyres, with the exception of
+the bodies of shamans, or sorcerers, which are deposited in boxes
+elevated on posts. The dead slave is not considered worthy of any
+ceremony whatever; his corpse is thrown into the sea like the carcass of
+a dog. When a T'linkit dies his relatives prepare a great feast,
+inviting a multitude of guests, especially if the deceased has been a
+chief or a wealthy member of a clan. The guests are chosen only from a
+strange clan; for instance, if the deceased belonged to the Raven clan,
+the guests must be from the Wolf clan, and _vice versa_. No certain
+time is set for the cremation or for the festivities; this depends
+altogether upon the magnitude of the preparations. Poor people who are
+unable to defray the cost of such ceremonies, take their dead to some
+distant cove or bay, and burn them without any display. When the guests
+have assembled and the pyre has been erected, the corpse is carried out
+of the village by invited guests, and placed upon the fagots. The pyre
+is then ignited in the presence of the relatives; but these latter take
+no active part, confining themselves to crying, weeping and howling. On
+such occasions many burn their hair, placing the head in the flames;
+others cut the hair short, and smear the face with the ashes of the
+deceased. When the cremation of the body has been accomplished, the
+guests return to the dwelling of the deceased, and seat themselves with
+the widow, who belongs to their clan, around the walls of the hut; the
+relatives of the deceased then appear with hair burned and cropped,
+faces blackened and disfigured, and place themselves within the circle
+of guests, sadly leaning upon sticks with bowed heads, and then begin
+their funeral dirges with weeping and howling. The guests take up the
+song when the relatives are exhausted, and thus the howling is kept up
+for four nights in succession, with only a brief interruption for
+refreshment. During this period of mourning, if the deceased had been a
+chief, or wealthy, the relatives formerly killed one or two slaves,
+according to the rank of the dead, in order to give him service in the
+other world. At the end of the period of mourning, or on the fourth day
+following the cremation, the relatives wash their blackened faces and
+paint them with gay colors, at the same time making presents to all the
+guests, chiefly to those who assisted in burning the corpse. Then the
+guests are feasted again, and the ceremony is at an end. The heir of the
+deceased is his sister's son, or, if he has no such relative, a younger
+brother. The heir was compelled to marry the widow."
+
+While I was at Chilkat the chief of the Crow clan was cremated with most
+savage ceremonials, no doubt well worth seeing, to which I was invited;
+but my preparations for my expedition kept me from accepting the
+invitation.
+
+[Illustration: SITKA, ALASKA.]
+
+Leaving Killisnoo, we cross Chatham Strait almost at right angles to its
+course (or due west), here about ten miles wide, and enter Peril
+Straits, about thirty-five miles long. They sweep boldly to the north in
+a great arc, and, like all winding and rapidly and alternately widening
+and narrowing of the inland channels, they are extremely picturesque,
+more from the contrast of different scenes so swiftly changed before
+one's eyes, than from anything radically new so presented. The old
+Russian name for them was Paboogni (meaning "pernicious") Strait, and
+they got this title rather from an incident of appetite than bad
+navigation. In the latter part of last century the Russians used to
+import the poor Aleuts of the Aleutian Islands, far to the westward, as
+mercenaries to fight their battles for them against the T'linkit Indians
+of this region; and, while encamped here, they partook of a large number
+of mussels, which proved poisonous, killing some, and putting many on
+the sick list for that particular campaign. In some of the very
+contracted places the tides run with great velocity; but, by taking
+advantage of the proper times (which the nearness of Killisnoo on one
+side and Sitka on the other makes easy) and a more thorough knowledge of
+the few impediments, the dangers to navigation here are now about _nil_.
+Once through Peril Straits, we can look out on the Pacific Ocean through
+Salisbury Sound for a few minutes before turning southward through a
+series of short straits and channels "too numerous to mention;" and
+then, after twenty to twenty-five miles of sailing, we come to Sitka,
+the capital of the Territory. It is most picturesquely located at the
+head of Sitka Sound, through which, looking in a southwest direction,
+the Pacific Ocean is plainly visible. Looking in this way, its bay seems
+full of pretty little islets, sprinkled all over it, that are almost
+invisible as seen from the ocean when approaching, so densely are they
+covered with timber, and so exactly like the timbered hills of the
+mainland, against which they are thrown. The steamer, after winding its
+way through a tortuous channel, finally brings to at a commodious wharf,
+with the city before you, which is in strange contrast with the wild,
+rugged scenery through which the tourist has been sailing. To our left,
+as we pass on to the wharf, is the Indian village of the Sitkas, one of
+the largest among the islands of the inland passage. To our front and
+right stretch the white settlements of the town. At the large Indian
+village, which is near--or, really, part of--Sitka, there are estimated
+to gather fully a thousand Indians in the winter time, the summer
+finding them partially dispersed over a greater area to gain their
+sustenance. These houses are like those described as being near
+Wrangell. In one way they have somewhat patterned after white men, in
+partitioning off the ends and sides of these large rooms into sleeping
+apartments by canvas and cloth drapery. It is said that the most
+fiendish ceremonies and diabolical cruelties were practiced at their
+"house-warmings," so to speak. Before the white men put a stop to these
+ceremonies, a slave was killed, with the greatest cruelties, under each
+of the corner uprights; and, as a house could not have less than four of
+these, and sometimes had more, by its irregularities, one may
+contemplate the suffering with which a large village like that at Sitka
+has been baptized.
+
+In the town proper the Greek Church is the most conspicuous and
+interesting object to the tourist, and especially those who have never
+seen one of this religion. It is built in the form of a Greek cross, in
+plan, and is surmounted by an Oriental dome over the centre, which has
+been painted an emerald green color. One wing is used as a chapel, and
+contains, besides a curious font, an exquisite painting of the Virgin
+and Child, copied from the celebrated picture at Moscow. All the drapery
+is of silver, and the halo of gold; so, of the painting itself, nothing
+is seen but the faces and background. The chancel, which is raised above
+the body of the church, is approached by three broad steps leading to
+four doors, two of which are handsomely carved and richly gilded, and
+contain four oval and two square _bas reliefs_. Above is a large picture
+of the Last Supper, covered, like that of the Madonna, with silver, as
+are two others, one on each side of the altar. Across the threshold of
+these doors no woman may set her foot, and across the inner ones to the
+innermost sanctuary none but the priest himself, or his superiors in the
+general Greek Church, or the white Czar, can enter. The doors, however,
+usually stand open; and the priest in residence, Father Metropaulski, is
+exceedingly courteous to visitors, showing them the costly and
+magnificent vestments and the bishop's crown, almost covered with pearls
+and amethysts. The ornaments and the candelabra are all of silver, the
+walls are hung with portraits of princes and prelates, and the general
+effect is rich in the extreme.
+
+Next to the church in interest--with some visitors, probably, ranking
+before it--is the old Muscovite castle on the hill. Here, in days gone
+by, the stern Romanoff ruled this land, and Baron Wrangell, one of
+Russia's many celebrated Polar explorers, held sway. It is said that it
+has been twice destroyed, once by fire and then by an earthquake, but
+was again erected with such staunch belongings that it will probably
+stand for ages much as it is to-day. It is now used as an office for
+United States Government officials, and it has a ball-room and theatre,
+with the same old brass chandeliers and huge bronze hinges that adorned
+it in its glory. The whole building has a semi-deserted and melancholy
+appearance; but it is of exceeding interest, speaking to us as it does
+of a grander history, when Sitka was the metropolis of the Pacific coast
+of North America, and it was the centre from which such power emanated.
+To sentimental tourists I will relate a tradition that has been
+published concerning the stern old castle; and, whether it fits the
+truth or not, it fits the sombre surroundings of the ancient pile. It
+runs, that, when Baron Romanoff was governor, he had living with him an
+orphan niece and ward, who, like all orphan nieces in feudal castles,
+especially those who figure in tradition, was very beautiful. But, when
+the baron commanded her to marry a beautiful prince, who was a guest at
+the castle, she refused, having given her heart to a handsome young
+lieutenant of the household. The old baron, who, like the rest of his
+race in traditional accounts, was an accomplished diplomate, feigning an
+interest in the young lieutenant which he did not feel, sent him away on
+a short expedition, and in the mean time hurried on the preparations for
+the marriage of the unhappy girl to the prince. Deprived of the support
+of her lover's counsels and presence, she yielded to the threats of her
+uncle, and the ceremony was solemnized. Half an hour after the marriage,
+while the rejoicing and the gayety were at their height, the young
+lieutenant strode into the ball-room, his travel-stained dress and
+haggard appearance contrasting strangely with the glittering costumes
+and gay faces of the revelers; and, during the silence which followed
+his ominous appearance, he stepped up to the hapless girl, and took her
+hand. After gazing for a few moments on the ring the prince had placed
+there, he, without a word, and before any one could interfere, drew a
+dagger from his belt, and stabbed her to the heart. In the wild
+confusion that followed, he escaped from the castle; and, overcome with
+grief, unable to live without the one he so fondly loved, yet ruthlessly
+murdered, he threw himself into the sea. And now her spirit is seen on
+the anniversary of her wedding night, her slender form robed in heavy
+silk brocade, pressing her hands on the wound in her heart, the tears
+streaming from her eyes. Sometimes, before a severe storm, she makes her
+appearance in the little tower at the top of the building once used as a
+lighthouse. There she burns a light until dawn for the spirit of her
+lover at sea.
+
+[Illustration: CHANCEL OF THE GREEK CHURCH, SITKA.]
+
+Almost directly west from Sitka, about fifteen miles distant, is Mount
+Edgecumbe, so named by Cook, it having previously been called Mount San
+Jacinto by Bodega in 1775, and Mount St. Hyacinth again by La Perouse.
+Tchirikov, before all others, I believe, got it chronicled as Mount St.
+Lazarus; and it looked as if it would go through the whole calendar of
+the saints, and their different national changes, if it had not gotten
+pretty firmly rooted as Mount Edgecumbe. It is nearly 3,000 feet above
+the level of the sea, and looks like a peak of 5,000 feet cut off by a
+huge shaving plane at its present height. This truncated apex is a
+crater, said to be, by those who have visited it, some 2,000 feet in
+diameter by one-tenth as deep. In the early and middle summer time, the
+snow from its table-like crown has partially disappeared, and the bright
+red volcanic rock projects in radiating ridges from the white covering
+that is disappearing, making a most beautiful crest to a mountain
+already picturesque by its singular isolation. When in this condition,
+with the western setting sun directly over it, and its golden beams
+radiating upward, and the royal red ridges radiating downward, both
+thrown against their background of blue sky and water and white snow, it
+makes a superb picture that the brush of a Turner could hardly copy, let
+alone a feeble pen describe.
+
+Lieutenant C. E. S. Wood, who visited this portion of Alaska in 1877,
+and gave a graphic description of his travels in the _Century Magazine_
+of July, 1882, gives therein the following interesting Indian legend
+concerning Mount Edgecumbe:
+
+"One drowsy eve we saw the peak of Edgecumbe for the last time. The
+great truncated cone caught the hues of the sunset, and we could note
+the gloom gathering deeper and deeper in the hollow of the crater. Our
+Indians were stolidly smoking the tobacco we had given them, and were
+resting after the labors of the day with bovine contentment.
+Tah-ah-nah-kleck related to us the T'linkit legend of Edgecumbe.
+
+"A long time ago the earth sank beneath the water, and the water rose
+and covered the highest places, so that no man could live. It rained so
+hard that it was as if the sea fell from the sky. All was black, and it
+became so dark, that no man knew another. Then a few people ran here and
+there and made a raft of cedar logs; but nothing could stand against the
+white waves, and the raft was broken in two.
+
+"On one part floated the ancestors of the T'linkits; on the other, the
+parents of all other nations. The waters tore them apart, and they never
+saw each other again. Now their children are all different, and do not
+understand each other. In the black tempest, Chethl was torn from his
+sister Ah-gish-ahn-ahkon [The-woman-who-supports-the-earth], Chethl
+[symbolized in the osprey] called aloud to her, 'You will never see me
+again; but you will hear my voice forever!' Then he became an enormous
+bird, and flew to southwest, till no eye could follow him.
+Ah-gish-ahn-ahkon climbed above the waters, and reached the summit of
+Edgecumbe. The mountain opened, and received her into the bosom of the
+earth. That hole [the crater] is where she went down. Ever since that
+time she has held the earth above the water. The earth is shaped like
+the back of a turtle, and rests on a pillar; Ah-gish-ahn-ahkon holds the
+pillar. Evil spirits that wish to destroy mankind seek to overthrow her
+and drive her away. The terrible battles are long and fierce in the
+lower darkness. Often the pillar rocks and sways in the struggle, and
+the earth trembles and seems like to fall; but Ah-gish-ahn-ahkon is good
+and strong, so the earth is safe. Chethl lives in the bird
+Kunna-Kaht-eth; his nest is in the top of the mountain, in the hole
+through which his sister disappeared.
+
+"He carries whales in his claws to this eyrie, and there devours them.
+He swoops from his hiding-place, and rides on the edge of the coming
+storm. The roaring of the tempest is his voice calling to his sister. He
+claps his wings in the peals of thunder, and its rumbling is the
+rustling of his pinions. The lightning is the flashing of his eyes."
+
+Looking inland are the glacier-clad summits of the interior mountains,
+Vostovia predominating, where few people, even among the Indians of the
+country, have ever been. Taking all its surroundings, it may be well
+said, as has been written, that Sitka Bay rivals in scenic beauty its
+nearest counterpart, the far-famed Bay of Naples. Near Sitka comes in a
+beautiful mountain stream called the Indian river. A most picturesque
+road leads out to this rambling brook, and a less frequented trail winds
+up its valley; but, if the steamer stops long enough to warrant the
+tramp, no one should fail to stroll along its two or three miles of
+winding way, embowered in absolutely tropical foliage, so dense and deep
+is it. It is the only road worthy of the name in Alaska; and, if one
+wends his way through it, and then combines his information acquired
+thereby with a view of the Alpine country of this part of the Territory,
+he will plainly comprehend why there are no more roads than this
+particular one, and feel willing to give full credit to its makers. It
+is near the half-way point of the journey, also; and this warrants a
+little inshore exercise that can be had at no other stopping place so
+well.
+
+About ten or eleven miles south of Sitka, on the mainland, but protected
+seaward by a breakwater of (Necker) islands, is Hot Springs Bay, on
+whose shores are springs which give it its name. About six or seven
+years before we obtained the Territory, the Russian American Fur
+Company, whose headquarters were at Sitka (since Baron Wrangell
+established them there in 1832), built a hospital at Hot Springs, which
+was said to have had wonderful remedial powers in skin and rheumatic
+diseases; but, for some reasons, the place has been abandoned (probably
+the lack of government by the United States), and the buildings are
+reported to be in a state of decay. The Indians used the waters for
+illness, and thus called the attention of the Russians thereto. The
+temperature of the water is from 120 to 125 degrees, and it contains a
+number of elements held in solution, as sulphur, chlorine, manganese,
+sodium and iron, besides combinations of these, and with other elements.
+It is worth a visit to see these hot springs, with the thermometer
+soaring up above the hundreds; for, in a day or two, by way of strange
+contrast, you will be among glaciers and icebergs towering as far in
+feet above your head.
+
+[Illustration: ALASKA'S THOUSAND ISLANDS, AS SEEN FROM SITKA.]
+
+The only way out of Sitka harbor, without putting to sea, is back
+through Peril Straits again; and, passing back, one can hardly realize
+that it is the same waterway, so radically different are the views
+presented. In the harbor of Sitka is Japonskoi (Japanese) Island, which
+may be identified by the captain's chart of the harbor, and which has a
+curious history. Here, about eighty years ago, an old Japanese junk,
+that had drifted across the sea on the Kuro-Siwo, or Japanese current,
+was stranded, and the Russians kindly cared for the castaway sailors who
+had survived the dreadful drift, and returned them to their country,
+after an experience that is seldom equaled, even in the romantic
+accounts of maritime misfortunes. The drifting of Japanese junks, and
+those of adjacent countries, is not so infrequent as one would suppose,
+and this fact might set the reflective man to thinking as to the
+ethnical possibilities accruing therefrom, the settlement of North
+America, etc.
+
+This Kuro-Siwo, or Japanese current,--sometimes called black current, or
+Japanese black current, from its hue,--corresponds in many ways to the
+Gulf Stream of the Atlantic: like it, its waters are warmed in the
+equatorial regions under a vertical sun; and, like it, a great portion
+of these waters are carried northward in its flow, and their heat poured
+upon the eastern shores of its ocean, till their climate is phenomenally
+temperate compared with the western shores in the same parallels. Sitka
+is said to have, as a result of facing this current, a mean winter
+temperature of a point half way between Baltimore and Washington, or
+slightly milder than the winter temperature of Baltimore. It is said to
+be no unusual thing to suffer from an ice famine in Sitka. A short way
+inland the winters are not so temperate, more snow falling at that
+season, while rain characterizes the coast face; but during the summer,
+or excursion season, these rains are not unpleasantly frequent. I take
+the following from a letter from Sitka, and published in the San
+Francisco _Bulletin_ of January 9, 1882, before this country was really
+opened to excursionists, although the subject was being discussed, so
+much had been heard of this wonderland:
+
+"The climate, as shown by the meteorological data collected by the
+signal service observers, is not of such a disagreeable character as
+some would have us believe. The scientific data collected and tabulated
+for the year 1881, as shown by the records at Sitka, Chilkoot, Juneau
+and Killisnoo, disprove most emphatically the seemingly malicious
+assertions in reference to its climate.
+
+  =========================================================================
+                      |April.|May.|June.|July.|Aug. |Sept.|Oct. |Nov.| Dec.
+  --------------------+------+----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+----+-----
+  Mean Temperature    | 42.5 |45.4|51.2 | 54.2|56.7 |54.  |46.3 |41.8|34.8
+  Max. Temperature    | 56.5 |61. |65.  | 67. |79.  |63.8 |57.8 |52.8|44.9
+  Min. Temperature    | 31.  |31. |41.  | 43. |43.9 |40.5 |32.  |22.5|14.
+  Total rainfall,     |      |    |     |     |     |     |     |    |
+  inches              |  4.21| 3.1| 1.54|  4.4| 1.98|12.11| 5.04|13.5|10.52
+  --------------------+------+----+-----+-----+-----+-----+-----+----+-----
+
+"A study of the above data, combined with an actual experience, compels
+the writer to admit that the summer weather of Southeastern Alaska is
+the most delightful that can be enjoyed throughout the length and
+breadth of this vast territory, and throws in the shade all the boasted
+claims of many, if not most, of the famous summer resorts in the
+'States.' There were only two days during the long, pleasant summer,
+that were rendered disagreeable by that feeling of oppressiveness caused
+by heat. The nights were cool and pleasant; the days always warm enough
+for open windows, through which the invigorating breezes from the
+snow-capped mountains or the broad Pacific, would blow at will; the
+long, bright days, when the sun disappeared only for a few hours, when
+twilight, after sunset, seemed to mingle with the rays of early dawn;
+the nights beautified by the dancing beams of the _aurora borealis_, and
+the myriad stars that seemed as if hung on invisible threads in the deep
+blue firmament. * * In regard to the summer weather, I reiterate that no
+one could possibly choose a more delightful place in which to spend a
+portion of the heated term than in making a trip through this portion of
+the Territory."
+
+"In Alaska, in midsummer," according to a late letter, "the almost
+continuous light of day shines upon bright green slopes, shaded here and
+there with dark timber belts, rising up from the deep blue waters. An
+endless variety of bright-hued flowers, the hum of insects, and
+melodious song of birds, * * * would cause a stranger, suddenly
+translated there, to think himself in any country but Alaska."--_Chicago
+Herald, 1885._
+
+When we are some five or six miles back on our northward way to Peril
+Straits, a pretty little bay, on Baronoff Island, is pointed out to us,
+on our starboard (by this time all the passengers are able seamen) side,
+called Old Harbor, or Starri-Gaven, in Russian. It was there that
+Baronoff built his first fort, called the Archangel Gabriel, in 1799,
+which, after a number of rapidly recurring vicissitudes, was
+annihilated, and its garrison massacred, by the Sitka Indians, three
+years later. Baronoff re-established his power at the present site of
+Sitka, calling the new place Archangel Michael,--Archangel Gabriel
+having failed in his duty as a protector; and from this name it was
+called New Archangel, which changed to Sitka with the change of flags in
+1867, although American maps had dubbed it Sitka before this.
+
+Once more in Chatham Strait, with the ship's head pointed northward, we
+are on our way to the northernmost recesses of the inland passage, and
+with the greatest wonders of our wonderland ahead of us. At its northern
+end, Chatham Strait divides into two narrow waterways, Icy Strait
+leading off to the west, to the land and waters of glaciers and
+icebergs, while Lynn Canal continues broad Chatham to the north. Lynn
+Canal is a double-headed inlet, the western arm at its head being called
+the Chilkat Inlet, and the eastern arm the Chilkoot Inlet, after two
+tribes of T'linkit Indians living on these respective channels. It is a
+beautiful sheet of water, more Alpine in character than any yet entered.
+Glaciers of blue and emerald ice can be seen almost everywhere, peeping
+from underneath the snow-capped mountains and ranges that closely
+enclose this well-protected canal, and render it picturesque in the
+extreme. Here is the Eagle Glacier on the right, and dozens that have
+never been named, and a most massive one (Davison's) on our left, just
+as we enter Chilkat Inlet. At the head of Chilkat Inlet is Pyramid
+Harbor, so named after an island of pyramidal profile in its waters. It
+marks the highest point you will probably reach in the inland passage,
+unless Chilkoot Inlet is entered, which is occasionally done.
+
+[Illustration: CHILKAT BLANKET.]
+
+We are now in the land of the Chilkats, one of the most aggressive and
+arrogant, yet withal industrious and wealthy, Indian tribes of the
+T'linkits. It should be remembered that all the Alaskan Indians of the
+inland passage (except the Hy-dahs of Dixon Entrance) are bound together
+by a common language, called the T'linkit; but having so little else in
+sympathy that the sub-tribes often war against each other, these
+sub-tribes having separate chiefs, medicine men and countries, in fact,
+and being known by different names. We have already spoken of the
+Stickeens, Kootznahoos, Sitkas, etc.; and by these names they are known
+among the whites of this portion of the Territory, the title T'linkit
+being seldom heard. At the salmon cannery, on the west shore, a small
+but recently built village of Chilkats is clustered; but, to see them in
+"all their glory," the Chilkat river should be ascended to their
+principal village of Klukwan.
+
+Of this country,--the Chilkat and Chilkoot,--Mrs. Eugene S. Willard, the
+wife of the missionary presiding at Haines Mission, in Chilkoot Inlet,
+and who has resided here a number of years, writes in the _Century
+Magazine_, of October, 1885:
+
+"From Portage Bay (of Chilkoot Inlet) west to the Chilkat river and
+southward to the point, lies the largest tract of arable land, so far as
+my knowledge goes, in Southeastern Alaska, while the climate does not
+differ greatly from that of Pennsylvania * * * Here summer reaches
+perfection, never sultry, rarely chilling. * * * In May the world and
+the sun wake up together. In his new zeal, we find old Sol up before us
+at 2:15 A. M., and he urges us on until 9:45 at night. Even then the
+light is only turned down; for the darkest hour is like early summer
+twilight, not too dark for reading.
+
+"From our front door to the pebbly beach below, the wild sweet pea runs
+rampant; while under and in and through it spring the luxuriant phlox,
+Indian rice, the white-blossomed 'yun-ate,' and wild roses which make
+redolent every breath from the bay. Passing out the back door, a few
+steps lead us into the dense pine woods, whose solitudes are peopled
+with great bears, and owls, and--T'linkit ghosts! while eagles and
+ravens soar without number. On one tree alone we counted thirty bald
+eagles. These trees are heavily draped with moss, hanging in rich
+festoons from every limb; and into the rich carpeting underneath, one's
+foot may sink for inches. Here the ferns reach mammoth size, though many
+of fairy daintiness are found among the moss; and the devil's walking
+stick stands in royal beauty at every turn, with its broad, graceful
+leaves, and waxen, red berries.
+
+"Out again into the sunshine, and we discover meadows of grass and
+clover, through which run bright little streams, grown over with
+willows, just as at home. And here and there are clumps of trees, so
+like the peach and apple, that a lump comes into your throat. But you
+lift your eyes, and there beyond is the broad shining of the river, and
+above it the ever-present, dream-dispelling peaks of snow, with their
+blue ice sliding down and down. * *
+
+"The Chilkat people long ago gained for themselves the reputation of
+being the most fierce and warlike tribe in the Archipelago. Certain it
+is, that, between themselves and southern Hy-dah, there is not another
+which can compare with them in strength, either as to numbers,
+intelligence, physical perfection, or wealth. * * * The children always
+belong to their mother, and are of her to-tem. This to-temic relation
+is considered closer than that of blood. If the father's and mother's
+tribes be at war, the children must take the maternal side, even if
+against their father. * * * In very rare cases a woman has two husbands;
+oftener we find a man with two wives, even three; but more frequently
+met than either is the consecutive wife.
+
+"The Chilkats are comparatively an industrious people. On the mainland
+we have none of the deer which so densely populate the islands, owing,
+it is said, to the presence of bears and wolves; but we have the white
+mountain goat, which, while it is lamb, is delicious meat. From its
+black horns the finest carved spoons are made, and its pelt, when washed
+and combed, forms a necessary part of the Indian's bedding and household
+furniture. The combings are made by the women into rolls similar to
+those made by machinery at home. Then, with a great basket of these
+white rolls on one side, and a basket on the other to receive the yarn,
+a woman sits on the floor, and, on her bared knee, with her palm, rolls
+it into cord. This they dye in most brilliant colors made of roots,
+grasses and moss, and of different kinds of bark.
+
+[Illustration: T'LINKET WAR CANOE.]
+
+"It is of this yarn that the famous Chilkat dancing-blanket is made.
+This is done by the women with great nicety and care. The warp, all
+white, is hung from a handsomely carved upright frame. Into it the
+bright colors are wrought by means of ivory shuttles. The work is
+protected during the tedious course of its manufacture by a covering
+resembling oiled silk, made from the dressed intestines of the bear.
+Bright striped stockings of this yarn are also knitted on little needles
+whittled from wood."
+
+An illustration of a dancing-blanket is given on page 81. These are made
+by several of the T'linkit tribes; but the Chilkats so predominate in
+the manufacture, both in numbers and excellence, that you seldom hear
+them mentioned in Alaska, except as Chilkat blankets. Nearly all of the
+T'linkit tribes, as the tourist will have seen by this time, spend most
+of their out-of-door time in the water, in their canoes; and this
+constant semi-aquatic life has told on their physical development to the
+extent of giving them very dwarfed and illy developed lower limbs,
+although the trunk and arms are well developed. When walking, they seem
+to shamble along more like an aquatic fowl on land than a human being.
+The Chilkats are noticeable exceptions. Although their country is much
+more mountainous in appearance than others lower down, yet here are some
+of the most accessible of the few mountain passes by which the interior,
+a rich fur-bearing district, can be gained. The Chilkats have yearly
+taken trading goods from the white men, lashed them into packs of about
+a hundred pounds, and carried them on their backs through these
+glacier-clad passes, and traded them for furs, bringing them out in the
+same way. They monopolized the trade by the simple process of
+prohibiting the interior Indians from coming to the sea-coast to trade.
+The Chilkats therefore are probably the richest tribe of Indians in the
+Northwest, the chief having two houses full of blankets, their standard
+of value, at the village of Kluk-wan.
+
+To those who find their greatest pleasure in a rough, out-of-door life,
+let them leave the steamer at this point, hire three or four Indians to
+carry their company effects on their backs, and make an Alpine journey
+to the head of the Yukon river, where lakes aggregating 150 miles in
+length can be passed over in a canoe. The route leads up the Dayay
+river, over the Perrier Pass in the Kotusk Mountains. The trip could be
+made between visiting steamers, and I will guarantee the persons will
+come back with more muscle than they took in.
+
+Bidding good-bye to the picturesque country of the Chilkats, the
+steamer's head is turned south again; and, when just about ready to
+leave Lynn Canal, we entered an intricate series of channels bearing
+eastward, and which bring us to the great mining town of Juneau, where
+many Alaskan hopes are centred. This is what a correspondent of the
+Chicago _Times_, under date of February 23, 1885, says of this Alaskan
+town and its curious history:
+
+"The centre from which radiates whatever of excitement and interest
+there is in Alaskan mines is Douglas Island. The history of the
+discovery of ore near this island, which eventually led to the location
+of the present much-talked-of property, is similar to that attending the
+finding of most of the large mines in the West. It seems that some
+half-dozen years ago two needy and seedy prospectors named Juneau and
+Harris arrived at an Indian village that still remains visible on the
+shore across the bay from Douglas Island, in search of ore. They
+prospected the country as thoroughly as they could, with but little
+success, and were about to return home when an Indian said that he knew
+where gold existed, and that he would reveal the place for a certain sum
+of money. Hardly believing, but yet curious, Harris and Juneau accepted
+the offer, and, with their guide, set out on a pilgrimage into the
+interior to a spot now known as 'The Basin.' After a long tramp through
+the forests, and up a deep valley, the Indian showed them a place where
+there were nuggets of free gold and dirt, which, when panned, yielded a
+handsome return. Claims were immediately staked out, and the adventurers
+began their work in earnest. Later, the fact of the discovery became
+known, and other miners entered the valley, and the region gained no
+little celebrity, and became the scene of much animation. Four years the
+work progressed, and a town, which to-day is of respectable size and
+great expectations, was founded, and christened Juneau.
+
+"The Douglas Island mine is located within fifty yards of the waters of
+Juneau Bay, and was discovered by a man named Treadwell, who sold his
+claim a year or two ago to a San Francisco company. The new owners set
+up a fine stamp-mill to begin with, and made thorough tests of the ore.
+It is a 120-stamp mill, the largest in the world, and the company has
+refused, it is said, $16,000,000 for the mine."
+
+[Illustration: T'LINKET CARVED SPOONS.
+
+(Made from the Horns of Mountain Goats.)]
+
+Since the above was written, and as late as last August, reports from
+there gave the astonishing showing of enough ore in sight to keep the
+120-stamp mill "running for a lifetime." The uninitiated in mining
+mills, ledges and lodes, may grasp the value of the mine by saying its
+output for a twenty-days run of the stamp-mill was $100,000 in gold, or
+at the rate of $1,800,000 per year; which, estimating its value on an
+income of five per cent. annually, would make the mine worth
+$36,000,000, or just five times the amount we paid for the whole
+Territory. There is no doubt whatever in the minds of many experts, that
+there are a number of such places as the Treadwell mine yet to be found,
+the great difficulty of prospecting in the dense, deep mass of fallen
+timber covered with wet moss and thick underbrush on the steepest
+mountain sides, coupled with the little probability of the Treadwell
+being an isolated case in such a uniformly Alpine country, amply
+justifying them in coming to such conclusions. A visit to the mines is
+one the tourists can readily make. At Juneau we find the Takoo band of
+T'linkits in a village near by, where nearly all that has been said
+regarding Alaskan Indians may be here repeated. The very curious spoons
+they carve from the horns of the mountain goat, which are figured on
+page 85, and beautifully woven mats, and the baskets shown on page 68,
+may be purchased; and, in leaving a few pieces of silver among them for
+their own handiwork, little as it is that we have thus done for them, it
+is far more than the extremists of either side in the Indian question
+have done, those who would exterminate, or those who would
+sentimentalize in print over their wrongs.
+
+Bidding the mining metropolis of Alaska farewell, our bowsprit is once
+more pointed for the Pacific Sea; but, before we reach it, or get quite
+to it, we turn northward and enter Glacier Bay, its name signifying its
+main attractions. Glaciers, which are great rivers or sheets of ice made
+from compacted snows, are functions as much of altitude as of high
+latitude; and both unite here, with an air charged with moisture from
+the warm Pacific waters, to make the grand glaciers which are to be seen
+in this bay. In the immediate vicinity are the Mount St. Elias Alps, a
+snowy range which culminates in the well-known peak from which it
+derives its name; and, radiating from their flanks, come down these
+rivers of ice, reaching the sea-level in the greatest perfection in
+Glacier Bay, the largest one of the grand group being the Muir Glacier,
+after Professor John Muir, the scientist, of California, who is said to
+be the first to discover it. I will give the language of the man who
+claims to be the second to arrive upon the scene, and who gives his
+account in the St. Louis _Globe-Democrat_, writing from Glacier Bay,
+July 14, 1883:
+
+"When Dick Willoughby told of the great glacier, thirty miles up the
+bay, the thud of whose falling ice could be heard and felt at his house,
+the captain of the 'Idaho' said he would go there, and took this Dick
+Willoughby along to find the place and prove the tale. Away we went
+coursing up Glacier Bay, a fleet of 112 little icebergs gayly sailing
+out to meet us as we left our anchorage the next morning. Entering into
+these unknown and unsurveyed waters, the lead was cast through miles of
+bottomless channels; and, when the pilot neared a green and mountainous
+little island, he made me an unconditional present of the domain, and
+duly entered its bearings on the ship's log. For a summer resort my
+island possesses unusual advantages, and I hereby invite all suffering
+and perspiring St. Louis to come to that emerald spot in latitude 58
+degrees 29 minutes north, and longitude 135 degrees 52 minutes west from
+Greenwich, and enjoy the July temperature of 42 degrees, the whale
+fishing, the duck hunting, and a sight of the grandest glacier in the
+world.
+
+"But one white man had ever visited the glacier before us, and he was
+the irrepressible geologist and scientist, John Muir, who started out in
+an Indian canoe, with a few blankets and some hard-tack, and spent days
+scrambling over the icy wastes. Feeling our way along carefully, we cast
+anchor beside a grounded iceberg, and the photographers were rowed off
+to a small island to take the view of the ship in the midst of that
+arctic scenery. Mount Crillon showed his hoary head to us in glimpses
+between the clouds; and then, rounding Willoughby Island, which the
+owner declares is solid marble of a quality to rival that of Pentelicus
+and Carrara, we saw the full front of the great Muir Glacier, where it
+dips down and breaks into the sea. At the first breathless glance at
+that glorious ice-world, all fancies and dreams were surpassed: the
+marvelous beauty of those shining, silvery pinnacles and spires, the
+deep blue buttresses, the arches and aisles of that fretted front,
+struck one with awe. In all Switzerland there is nothing comparable to
+these Alaskan glaciers, where the frozen wastes rise straight from the
+sea, and a steamer can go up within an eighth of a mile, and cruise
+beside them. Add to the picture of high mountains and snowy glaciers a
+sapphire bay scattered over with glittering little icebergs, and nature
+can supply nothing more to stir one's soul, to rouse the fancy and
+imagination, and enchant the senses. The vastness of this Muir Glacier
+is enough alone to overpower one with a sense of the might and strength
+of these forces of nature. Dry figures can give one little idea of the
+great, desolate stretches of gray ice and snow that slope out of sight
+behind the jutting mountains, and the tumbled and broken front forced
+down to and into the sea. Although not half of the glacier has been
+explored, it is said to extend back 40 miles.
+
+"What we could know accurately was, that the front of the glacier was
+two miles across, and that the ice-wall rose 500 and 1,000 feet from the
+water. The lead cast at the point nearest to the icy front gave eighty
+fathoms, or 240 feet, of water; and, in the midst of those deep
+soundings, icebergs filled with boulders lay grounded with forty feet of
+their summits visible above water. At very low tide, there is a
+continual crash of falling ice; and, for the half-day we spent beside
+this glacier, there was a roar as of artillery every few minutes, when
+tons of ice would go thundering down into the water. After the prosaic
+matter of lunch had been settled, and we had watched the
+practical-minded steward order his men down on the iceberg to cut off a
+week's supply with their axes, we embarked in the life-boats, and landed
+in a ravine beside the glacier. * * * We wandered at will over the
+seamed and ragged surface, the ice cracked under our feet with a
+pleasant midwinter sound, and the wind blew keenly from over those
+hundreds of miles of glacier fields; but there were the gurgle and
+hollow roar of the water heard in every deep crevasse, and trickling
+streams spread a silver network in the sunshine. Reluctantly we obeyed
+the steamer's whistle, and started back to the boats.
+
+"A magnificent sunset flooded the sky that night, and filled every icy
+ravine with rose and orange lights. At the last view of the glacier, as
+we steamed away from it, the whole brow was glorified and transfigured
+with the fires of sunset; the blue and silvery pinnacles, the white and
+shining front floating dreamlike on a roseate and amber sea, and the
+range and circle of dull violet mountains lighting their glowing summits
+into a sky flecked with crimson and gold."
+
+Since the above was written, in July, 1883, Glacier Bay has been one of
+the constant visiting points of the excursion steamer, and the
+experience of two or three years has shown the company how to exhibit
+this great panorama of nature to its patrons to the best advantage, and
+one will now be astonished at the ease with which the whole field may
+be surveyed in this the most wonderful bay on a line of steamboat
+travel.
+
+Our same correspondent speaks of an unknown passage down which they
+traveled in a way that will delight the heart of a Nimrod; but he should
+have added that almost half the inland passage is of that character so
+far as the general world is wiser concerning it, and half of this,
+again, may be wholly unknown, offering one of the finest fields for
+short explorations without any of the dangers and difficulties which so
+often beset greater undertakings, and rob them of all pleasure while
+they are being prosecuted, and only compensating the explorer in the
+results attained. Here is what he has to say:
+
+"For the twenty miles that we had come down the beautiful inlet, the
+coast survey charts showed an unbroken stretch of dry land. To the
+sportsman that unknown inlet is the dreamed-of paradise. When we went
+out in the small boats, salmon and flounders could be seen darting in
+schools through the water; and, as we approached the mouth of a creek,
+the freshening current was alive with the fish. The stewards who went to
+the shore with the tank-boats for fresh water, startled seven deer as
+they pushed their way to the foot of a cascade, and the young men caught
+thirteen great salmon with their own inexperienced spearing. The captain
+of the ship took his rifle, and was rowed away to shallow waters, where
+he shot a salmon, waded in, and threw it ashore. While wandering along
+after some huge bear tracks, he saw an eagle at work on his salmon, and
+another fine shot laid the bird of freedom low. When the captain
+returned to the ship he threw the eagle and salmon on deck, and, at the
+size of the former, every one marveled. The outspread wings measured the
+traditional six feet from tip to tip, and the beak, the claws, and the
+huge, stiff feathers were rapidly seized upon as trophies and souvenirs
+of the day. A broad double rainbow arched over us as we left the lovely
+niche between the mountains, and then we swept back to Icy Straits, and
+started out to the open ocean."
+
+But we will not confine ourselves to the description of one person in
+considering this the most fascinating and curious scene presented to the
+Alaskan tourists. Grand, even to the extent of being almost appalling,
+as are the Alaskan fjords, they are but the Yosemite or Colorado Parks,
+with navigable valleys, as they would appear greatly enlarged; much as
+we are awestruck at the feet of Mount St. Elias, it is but Tacoma or
+Shasta in grander proportions, and so on through the list of scenes we
+view: but in the glaciers we have no counterpart that can be viewed from
+a steamer's deck, unless the polar zones themselves be invaded; and
+here, in fact, we view the grandest sight to be seen in that dreary
+zone, without any of its many dangers. Says Professor Denman, of San
+Francisco, who has devoted much of his attention to glaciers, and
+especially these of Alaska, compared with which he pronounces those to
+be seen in Switzerland and other parts of Europe to be "babies:"
+
+"Muir Glacier is a spectacle whose grandeur can not be described,--a
+vast frozen river of ice, ever slowly moving to the sea, and piling the
+enormous masses higher between the mountain banks, until their summit
+towers hundreds of feet in the air. Where the point of the glacier
+pushes out into and overhangs the water, vast fragments breaking apart
+every few moments of their own weight, and falling with a thundering
+crash into the sea, to float away as enormous icebergs, it affords a
+spectacle which can only be understood and appreciated by one who
+beholds it with his own eyes. From the summit of Muir Glacier no less
+than twenty-nine others are to be seen in various directions, all
+grinding and crowding their huge masses toward the sea, a sight which
+must certainly be one which few other scenes can equal."
+
+[Illustration: SCENES AMONG THE ALASKAN GLACIERS. (From Photographs.)
+
+No. 1 (Top). A Near View of the Terminal Front of the Muir Glacier. No.
+2. Looking Seaward from the Surface of the Glacier. No 3. The Excursion
+Steamer at the Front of the Glacier. No. 4 (Bottom). On the Great Frozen
+Sea; a Near View of the Surface of the Glacier.]
+
+Says a writer, Mr. Edward Roberts, in the _Overland Monthly_: "I do not
+know how wide, nor how long, nor how deep Glacier Bay is. One does not
+think of figures and facts when sailing over its waters and enjoying the
+novel features. Flood Switzerland, and sail up some of its canons toward
+Mont Blanc, and you will have there another Glacier Bay. But until the
+sea-waves wash the feet of that Swiss peak, and until one can sail past
+the glaciers of that country, there will never be found a companion bay
+to this of Alaska. Norway, with all its ruggedness, has nothing to equal
+it; and there is not a mountain in all the ranges of the Rockies which
+has the majestic gracefulness of Fairweather Peak, which looks down upon
+the bay.
+
+"Imagine the view we had as we turned out of Lynn Canal and moved into
+the ice-strewn waters of the strange place. Above hung the sun, warm and
+clear, and lighting up the wide waste of waters till they glistened like
+flashing brilliants. Away to the left and right ran sombre forests, and
+long stretches of yellow-colored stone, and rocky cliffs that now ran
+out into the bay, and, again, rose high and straight from out it. No
+villages were in sight; no canoes dotted the waters; but all was
+desolate, neglected, still; and cakes of ice, white in the distance and
+highly colored nearer to, floated about our ship. And there, in the
+northwest, rising so high above the intervening hills that all its
+pinnacles, all its gorges, and its deep ravines of moving ice were
+visible, was Fairweather, loftiest, whitest, most delicately moulded
+peak of all the snowy crests in this north land. From a central spur,
+topping all its fellows, lesser heights helped form a range which
+stretched for miles across the country, and on whose massive shoulders
+lay a mantle of such pure whiteness that the sky above was bluer still
+by contrast, and the forests grew doubly dark and drear. All through the
+afternoon we sailed toward the glorious beacon, while the air grew
+colder every hour, and the ice cakes, hundreds of tons in weight, grew
+more numerous as the daylight began to wane. The glaciers of Glacier Bay
+are the largest in Alaska. Formed among the highest crags of the
+Fairweather range, they gradually deepen and widen as they near the sea,
+and end, at last, in massive cliffs of solid ice, often measuring three
+hundred feet high, and having a width of several miles. The surface of
+the glaciers is rough and billowy, resembling the waves of a troubled
+sea frozen into solid blocks of ice at the moment of their wildest
+gambols. Constantly pressed forward by the heavy blocks that gradually
+slide down the mountain ravines, the great frozen river keeps pressing
+seaward, until the action of the waves crumbles away gigantic cakes,
+that fall into the waters with a noise like the booming of cannon, and
+with a force that sends columns of water high into the air. The scene
+was one of arctic splendor,--white, ghostly and cheerless; while the
+light was that so often described by visitors to the polar
+sea,--uncertain, bluish, and strongly resembling a November twilight in
+New England, when the sky is overcast, the trees are bare, and the
+clouds are full of snow. Gaining at last a point barely three hundred
+yards from the glacier, the ship was stopped short. Before us rose the
+towers and solid walls, forming an embankment higher than our mast-head,
+and towering upward in dense masses against the leaden sky. Taken to
+Switzerland, the glacier of Alaska would cover that country three times
+over; for the frozen rivers of our largest purchase are not only fifty
+miles in length and three in width, but often twice that distance long
+and ten times that distance wide."
+
+Lieutenant Wood, whom we have quoted before, in speaking of the T'linkit
+Indians in the ice, says: "I noticed that, when journeying through the
+floating ice in good weather, our Indians would carefully avoid striking
+pieces of ice, lest they should offend the Ice Spirit. But, when the Ice
+Spirit beset us with peril, they did not hesitate to retaliate by
+banging his subjects. After picking our way through the ice for three
+days, we came upon a small, temporary camp of Hoonahs, who were seal
+hunting. We found little camps of a family or two scattered along both
+shores. One of the largest glaciers from Fairweather comes into the bay,
+and thus keeps its waters filled with the largest icebergs, even in the
+summer season, for which reason the bay is a favorite place for seal
+hunting. The seal is the native's meat, drink (the oil is like melted
+butter) and clothing. I went seal hunting to learn the art, which
+requires care and patience. The hunter, whether on an ice floe or in a
+canoe, never moves when the seal is aroused. When the animal is asleep,
+or has dived, the hunter darts forward. The spear has a barbed,
+detachable head, fastened to the shaft by a plaited line made from
+sinew. The line has attached to it a marking buoy, which is merely an
+inflated seal's bladder. The young seals are the victims of the T'linkit
+boys, who kill them with bow and arrow. These seal hunters used a little
+moss and seal oil and some driftwood for fuel. * * * After about forty
+miles' travel, we came to a small village of Asonques. They received us
+with great hospitality, and, as our canoe had been too small to carry
+any shelter, the head man gave me a bed in his own cabin. He had a great
+many wives, who busied themselves making me comfortable. The buckskin
+re-enforcement of my riding trousers excited childish wonder. I drew
+pictures of horses and men separate, and then of men mounted on horses.
+Their astonishment over the wonderful animal was greater than their
+delight at comprehending the utility of the trousers. The Alaskan women
+are childish and pleasant, yet quick-witted, and capable of heartless
+vindictiveness. Their authority in all matters is unquestioned. No
+bargain is made, no expedition set on foot, without first consulting
+the women. Their veto is never disregarded. I bought a silver-fox skin
+from Tsatate; but his wife made him return the articles of trade and
+recover the skin. In the same way I was perpetually being annoyed by
+having to undo bargains because his wife said '_clekh_;' that is, 'no.'
+I hired a fellow to take me about thirty miles in his canoe, when my own
+crew was tired. He agreed. I paid him the tobacco, and we were about to
+start, when his wife came to the beach and stopped him. He quietly
+unloaded the canoe and handed me back the tobacco. The whole people are
+curious in the matter of trade. I was never sure that I had done with a
+bargain; for they claimed and exercised the right to undo a contract at
+any time, provided they could return the consideration received. This is
+their code among themselves. For example: I met, at the mouth of the
+Chilkat, a native trader who had been to Fort Simpson, about six hundred
+miles away, and, failing to get as much as he gave in the interior of
+Alaska for the skins, was now returning to the interior to find the
+first vender, and revoke the whole transaction.
+
+"From the Asonque village I went, with a party of mountain goat hunters,
+up into the Mount St. Elias Alps back of Mount Fairweather,--that is, to
+the northeast of that mountain. For this trip our party made elaborate
+preparations. We donned belted shirts made of squirrel skins, fur
+head-dresses (generally conical), sealskin bootees, fitting very
+closely, and laced half way to the knee. We carried spears for
+alpenstocks, bows and arrows, raw-hide ropes, and one or two old Hudson
+Bay rifles. Ptarmigan were seen on the lower levels where the ground was
+bare. The goats kept well up toward the summit, amid the snow fields,
+and fed on the grass which sprouted along the edges of melting drifts.
+The animal is like a large, white goat, with long, coarse hair and a
+heavy coat of silky underfleece. We found a bear that, so far as I know,
+is peculiar to this country. It is of a beautiful bluish under-color,
+with the tips of the long hairs silvery white. The traders call it 'St.
+Elias silver bear.' The skins are not uncommon." This little mountain
+trip of Lieutenant Wood's is especially spread before the attention of
+those who find in this form of exercise their best recreation from their
+regular duties.
+
+But, however much the tourists may want to dwell amidst the curious and
+marvelous scenes of Glacier Bay (and so great has been this demand that
+it is contemplated building a summer resort near by, that passengers may
+remain over one steamer), yet a time must come when we will have to bid
+good-bye to this polar part of our wonderland, and pass on to the next
+grand panorama in view. Southeastward out of Glacier Bay into Icy
+Straits, and we turn southwestward into Cross Sound, headed for the
+Pacific Ocean, and for the first time enter its limitless waters. Cross
+Sound was named by Vancouver, in 1778, in honor of the day on which it
+was discovered, and is about fifty-five miles long. It corresponds on
+the north to the Strait of Juan de Fuca on the south, these two
+waterways being the limiting channels north and south of the inland
+passage as it connects with the Pacific Ocean. As the Puget Sound
+projects much farther to the south from Fuca Strait into the mainland,
+hemmed in by snowy peaks, so Lynn Canal, "the Puget Sound of the North,"
+continues the Sound of the Holy Cross far to the northward, embayed by
+glaciers, icebergs, and fields of snow.
+
+Recently, a trip out of Cross Sound, and northwestward about two hundred
+miles along the Pacific coast, has been occasionally added to the scenes
+of the inland passage, the new views presented being the Mount St. Elias
+Alps, directly facing the Pacific, for the distance noted, and
+containing within those limits the greatest number of high and imposing
+peaks to be found in any range in the world. The inland passage (by the
+use of Peril Straits to Sitka) became so perfect a river-like journey,
+absolutely free from sea-sickness, that no one felt like breaking this
+delightful trip by a sea journey, in any of its parts, however tempting
+the display might be. A trip or two, however, soon convinced the company
+that the mildness of the sea during the excursion season would warrant
+them in taking it as a part of the journey; and since, as I have said,
+it is taken occasionally, I think a short description of it would be
+appropriate here. Should the hotel in Glacier Bay, or near vicinity, be
+completed soon, it would be a good stopping-point for those who are sure
+to feel sea-sick with the least motion of the waves; while, to all
+others, the chances for good weather on the Fairweather Grounds, as they
+are not inappropriately termed, are very good, and, conjoined with the
+grand mountain scenery, should not be missed. Rounding Cape Spencer
+(_Punta de Villaluenga_ of old Spanish charts), the northern point of
+the Pacific entrance to Cross Sound, the journey out to sea is
+commenced; a view about ten to fifteen miles off shore being the best,
+or on what is known to the fishermen who here used to pursue the right
+whale, "the Fairweather Grounds," being so named, it is said, from
+Fairweather peak being in sight of most of it; and this, again, was
+named by the indomitable Cook, in 1778, as a monument to the fair
+weather he had cruising in sight of the grand old chain, a name which
+most tourists may congratulate themselves is well bestowed.
+
+Almost as soon as Cape Spencer is doubled, the southern spurs of the
+Mount St. Elias Alps burst into view, Crillon and Fairweather being
+prominent, and the latter easily recognized from our acquaintance with
+it from the waters of Glacier Bay. A trip of an hour or two takes us
+along a comparatively uninteresting coast, as viewed from "square off
+our starboard beam;" but all this time the mind is fixed by the grand
+Alpine views we have ahead of us that are slowly developing in plainer
+outline here and there as we speed toward them. Soon we are abreast of
+Icy Point: while, just beyond it, comes down a glacier to the ocean that
+gives about three miles of solid sea-wall of ice, while its source is
+lost in the heights covering the bases of the snowy peaks just behind.
+The high peak to the right, as we steam by the glacier front, is Mount
+La Perouse, named for one of the most daring of France's long list of
+explorers, and who lost his life in the interest of geographical
+science. His eyes rested on this range of Alpine peaks in 1786, just a
+century ago. Its highest point reaches well above 10,000 feet, and its
+sides are furrowed with glaciers, one of which is the ice-wall before
+our eyes, and which is generally known as the La Perouse Glacier. The
+highest peak of all, and on the left of this noble range, is Mount
+Crillon, named by La Perouse, in 1786, after the French Minister of the
+Marine; while between Crillon and La Perouse is Mount D'Agelet, the
+astronomer of that celebrated expedition. Crillon cleaves the air for
+16,000 feet above the sea on which we rest, and can be seen for over a
+hundred miles to sea. It, too, is surrounded with glaciers, in all
+directions from its crown. Crillon and La Perouse are about seven miles
+apart, nearly north and south of each other. About fifteen miles
+northwest from Crillon is Lituya Peak, 10,000 feet high; and the little
+bay opening that we pass, between the two, is the entrance to Lituya
+Bay, a sheet of water which La Perouse has pronounced as one of the most
+extraordinary in the world for grand scenery, with its glaciers and
+Alpine shores. Our steamer will not enter, however; for the passage is
+dangerous to even small boats,--one island bearing a monument to the
+officers and men of La Perouse's expedition, lost in the tidal wave
+which sweeps through the contracted passage like a breaker over a
+treacherous bar. Some ten or twelve miles northwest from Lituya Peak is
+Mount Fairweather, which bears abreast us after a little over an hour's
+run from Lituya Bay. It was named by Cook in 1778, and is generally
+considered to be a few hundred feet shorter than Mount Crillon. It is in
+every way, by its peculiar isolation from near ridges almost as high as
+itself, a much grander peak than Crillon, whose surroundings are not so
+good for a fine Alpine display. Fairweather, too, has its frozen rivers
+flowing down its sides; but none of them reach the sea, for a low,
+wooded country, some three or four miles in width, lies like a glacis at
+the seaward side of the St. Elias Alps, for a short distance along this
+part of the coast. The sombre, deep green forests add an impressive
+feature to the scene, however, lying between the dancing waves below and
+the white and blue glacier ice above. Rounding Cape Fairweather, the
+coast trends northward; and, as our bowsprit is pointed in the same
+direction, directly before us are seen immense glaciers reaching to the
+sea. From Cape Fairweather (abreast of Mount Fairweather) to Yakutat Bay
+(abreast of Mount Vancouver), no conspicuous peak rears its head above
+the grand mountain chain which for nearly a hundred miles lies between
+these two Alpine bastions; but nevertheless every hour reveals a new
+mountain of 5,000 to 8,000 feet in height, which, if placed anywhere
+else, would be held up with national or State pride as a grand
+acquisition. Here they are only dwarfed by grander peaks. The glacier
+which we are approaching from Cape Fairweather was named, by La Perouse,
+_La Grande Plateau_. It is a very low lying glacier, its grade as it
+fades away inland being very slight, more like a frozen river than the
+precipitous masses of ice which we have been used to seeing. Little is
+known of it, beyond the seaward aspect; but it is probably the largest
+glacier in Alaska, and the largest in the world, south of the polar
+regions themselves.
+
+Wherever these glaciers reach the sea, or connect with it by draining
+rivers,--and all large glaciers, at least, do this,--there is seen a
+milky sediment floating in the water, which these "mills of the gods"
+grind from the mountain flanks in their slow but rasping course down
+their sides. Wherever they find calcareous strata to abrade, the water
+is almost milklike in hue for miles around. The glacier of the Grand
+Plateau is the last one facing the Pacific itself, as we move northward;
+but, where little bays cut back through the flat lands at the foot of
+the range, they may reach the glaciers which exist everywhere on the
+mountain sides.
+
+Off the Bay of Yakutat,--a name given it by the resident T'linkit
+tribes,--we have our best view of imperial St. Elias, the crowning peak
+of this noble range, and the highest mountain in all North
+America,--nearly 20,000 feet above the sea-level, and all of this vast
+height seemingly springing from the very sea itself. No good picture has
+ever been given of it, and no words have ever fully described it. All of
+the superlatives of our language have clothed so many lesser peaks that
+they fall flat and mentally tasteless in the presence of this Alpine
+Titan, rearing his crest among the clouds as if defying description.
+This want of words has been felt by so many who have visited the grand
+scenery of Alaska, who saw that, in illustrating a fjord here or a
+glacier there, they have but duplicated the word-painting of some other
+writer describing a puny antagonist, compared with their subject, that I
+will give it in the words of one who expresses the idea more closely
+than I. It is from the pen of a correspondent in the Kansas City
+_Journal_, under date of September 14, 1885.
+
+"The difficult thing for the tourist to do in regard to Alaska is to
+describe what is seen for the general reader. Everything is on such an
+immense and massive scale that words are diminutives for expression,
+rather than--as travelers have been credited with using them--for
+exaggerated descriptions. For example, people cross the continent to
+sail for an hour or two among the Thousand Islands of the St. Lawrence,
+and word-painting has been exhausted in exaltation of their beauties.
+But here is a thousand miles of islands, ranging in size from an acre to
+the proportions of a State, covered with evergreen forests of tropical
+luxuriance, yet so arctic in their character as to be new to the eye,
+and in regard to which botanical nomenclature but confuses and
+dissatisfies. And in all this vast extent of mountain scenery, with
+summits ranging from one thousand to fifteen thousand feet in height,
+there is not enough level land visible to aggregate one prairie county
+in Western Missouri or Kansas. Day after day there is a continuous and
+unbroken chain of mountain scenery. I can not better impress the
+character of the landscape, as seen from a vessel's deck, than to ask
+the reader to imagine the parks, valleys, canons, gorges and depressions
+of the Rocky Mountains to be filled with water to the base of the snowy
+range, and then take a sail through them from Santa Fe to the northern
+line of Montana. Just about what could be seen on such an imaginary
+voyage is actually passed through in the sail now completed by our party
+of enthusiastic tourists for the past ten days. You may divide the
+scenery into parts by the days, and just as it was successively passed
+through, and any one of the subdivisions will furnish more grand
+combination of mountain and sea than can be seen anywhere on the globe.
+It is this vast profusion of scenery, this daily and hourly unrolling of
+the panorama, that overwhelms and confuses the observer. It is too great
+to be separated into details, and everything is platted on such a
+gigantic scale that all former experiences are dwarfed, and the
+imagination rejects the adjectives that have heretofore served for other
+scenes: to employ them here is only to mislead."
+
+"As one gentleman, a veteran traveler, remarked to me, as we stood
+looking north at the entrance to Glacier Bay, with the St. Elias Alps in
+full view, and Mounts Crillon and Fairweather overtopping the
+snow-covered peaks of that remarkable range:
+
+"'You can take just what we see here, and put it down on Switzerland,
+and it will hide all there is of mountain scenery in Europe.' And then
+he added: 'I have been all over the world; but you are now looking at a
+scene that has not its parallel elsewhere on the globe.'
+
+"I cite this incident, as it is more descriptive, and gives a better
+idea of contrast than anything of my own could do, giving, as it does,
+to the reader, a conception of the vastness and immensity of the
+topographical aspect of the shores of the inland seas through whose
+labyrinthine passages we have for ten days past, and for ten days more
+to come will be lost to the outside world, where nature reigns
+undisturbed and unfretted by the hand of civilization."
+
+Here, under the solemn influence of Mount St. Elias, and in the
+northernmost waters of the greatest ocean of our planet, we turn
+southward to repeat in inverse order the things we have seen; or
+perchance, as often happens, down a number of new channels, with their
+varied scenery, before home is reached again.
+
+I have given a certain order in which the few ports of Alaska are
+visited; but the reader must not for a moment think that this is always
+rigidly followed. Sometimes some of them are left for the return
+journey, and much depends on the amount of freight, and the number and
+character of passengers. In the winter the trips are made wholly with
+reference to mails, freight, and the few passengers; but in the spring,
+summer, and fall these are wholly subordinate, and the trips are
+converted into excursions in the broadest sense of the word. While
+thousands of little channels remain almost wholly unexplored, which
+probably would make the fortune of excursion companies if transported
+elsewhere, yet it is evident that the greater attractions of the great
+inland passage have been discovered, and are now shown to the tourists
+to the Wonderland of the World.
+
+                                                        FRED'K SCHWATKA.
+
+                     *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+The table below lists all corrections applied to the original text.
+
+  p 5: Glaciers of Alaska -> shift after Glacier Bay
+  p 9: rock bass, mascalonge -> maskalonge
+  p 34: Bull river -> Bull River
+  p 39: it below, or vice versa -> versa
+  P 46: and the great light-house -> lighthouse
+  p 72: SITKA, ALASKA. -> period added
+  p 85: running for a life-time -> lifetime
+  p 87: with a pleasant mid-winter -> midwinter
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Wonderland; or Alaska and the Inside
+Passage, by Lieut. Frederick Schwatka and John Hyde
+
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