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margin:1em 0'> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and +most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions +whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms +of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online +at <a href="https://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a>. If you +are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the +country where you are located before using this eBook. +</div> + +<p style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Title: Diary of a pedestrian in Cashmere and Thibet</p> + +<div style='display:block; margin-top:1em; margin-bottom:1em; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Author: William Henry Knight</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Release Date: July 7, 2021 [eBook #3639]</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Language: English</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'>Character set encoding: UTF-8</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin-left:2em; text-indent:-2em'>Produced by: Jeroen Hellingman</div> + +<div style='margin-top:2em; margin-bottom:4em'>*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DIARY OF A PEDESTRIAN IN CASHMERE AND THIBET ***</div> +<div class="front"> +<div class="div1 cover"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divBody"> +<p class="first"></p> +<div class="figure cover-imagewidth"><img src="images/cover.jpg" alt="Newly Designed Front Cover." width="480" height="720" /></div><p> +</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div1 frontispiece"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divBody"> +<p class="first"></p> +<div class="figure frontispiecewidth" id="frontispiece"><img src="images/frontispiece.jpg" alt="Ladak." width="443" height="720" /><div class="figAnnotation frontispiecewidth"><span class="figBottomLeft">W.H.K. <abbr title="Delineavit">Delt.</abbr></span><span class="figTop"> </span><span class="figBottomRight">Hanhart, <abbr title="Lithography">Lith.</abbr></span></div> +<p class="figureHead">Ladak.</p> +</div><p> +</p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="titlepage" class="div1 page"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divBody"> +<p class="first"></p> +<div class="figure titlepage-imagewidth"><img src="images/titlepage.png" alt="Original titlepage." width="411" height="720" /></div><p> +</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="titlePage"> +<div class="docTitle"> +<div class="mainTitle">Diary of a Pedestrian<br/> +in<br/> +Cashmere and Thibet.</div> +<div class="mainTitle"></div> +</div> +<div class="byline">By +<span class="docAuthor">Captain Knight</span>, Forty-eighth Regiment.</div> +<div class="docImprint">London:<br/> +Richard Bentley, New Burlington Street.<br/> +Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty.<br/> +<span class="docDate">1863.</span></div> +</div> +<p><span class="pageNum" id="xd30e156">[<a href="#xd30e156">v</a>]</span></p> +<div class="div1 dedication"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divBody"> +<p class="first xd30e158">To<br/> +those for whose perusal<br/> +the following pages were originally written<br/> +they are affectionately<br/> +dedicated. +<span class="pageNum" id="xd30e168">[<a href="#xd30e168">vii</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div1 preface"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Preface.</h2> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">With the fullest sense of the responsibility incurred by the addition of another volume +to the countless numbers already existing, and daily appearing in the world, the following +Diary has been committed to the press, trusting that, as it was not written <i>with intent</i> to publication, the unpremeditated nature of the offence may be its extenuation, +and that as a faithful picture of travel in regions where excursion trains are still +unknown, and Travellers’ Guides unpublished, the book may not be found altogether +devoid of interest or amusement. Its object is simply to bring before the reader’s +imagination those scenes and incidents of travel which have already been a source +of enjoyment to the writer, <span class="pageNum" id="xd30e175">[<a href="#xd30e175">viii</a>]</span>and to impart, perhaps, by their description, some portion of the gratification which +has been derived from their reality. With this view, the original Diary has undergone +as little alteration of form or matter as possible, and is laid before the reader +as it was sketched and written during the leisure moments of a wandering life, hoping +that faithfulness of detail may atone in it for faults and failings in a literary +and artistic point of view. +</p> +<p>Although the journey it describes was written without the advantages of a previous +acquaintance with the writings of those who had already gone over the same ground, +subsequent research has added much to the interest of the narrative, and information +thus obtained has been added either in the form of Notes or Appendix. Under the latter +head, acknowledgment is principally due to an able and interesting essay on the architecture +of Cashmere, by <abbr title="Captain">Capt.</abbr> Cunningham, and also to a paper by M. Klaproth, both of whom appear to have treated +more fully than any other writers the subjects to which they refer. +<span class="pageNum" id="xd30e182">[<a href="#xd30e182">ix</a>]</span></p> +<p>As differences will be found to occur in the names of places, &c. between the parts +thus added and the remainder of the book, it may be well to explain that in the former +only are they spelt according to the usually received method of rendering words of +Eastern origin in the Roman character. By this system the letters <i>ā, e, ī, o,</i> and <i>ū,</i> are given the sounds of the corresponding Italian vowels; <i>i</i> and <i>u</i> are pronounced as in “hit” and “put;” and the letter <i>a</i> is made to represent the short <i>u</i> in the word “cut.” In this way it is that Cashmere, correctly pronounced Cushmere, +comes to be written Kashmīr, and Mutun, pronounced as the English word “mutton,”<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e198src" href="#xd30e198">1</a> is written Matan, both of which, to the initiated, represent the true sound of the +words. Those who have adopted the system, however, have not always employed it throughout, +nor given with it the key by which it alone becomes intelligible; and the result has +been that in many ways, but principally from the un-English use made of the letter +<i>a,</i> it has tended quite as much to mislead and confuse, as to direct. +<span class="pageNum" id="xd30e207">[<a href="#xd30e207">x</a>]</span></p> +<p>In the narrative, therefore, wherever custom has not already established a particular +form of spelling, the explanation of the sound has been attempted in the manner which +seemed least liable to misconception, and, except as regards the letters <i>a</i> and <i>u</i> no particular system has been followed. These have been invariably given the sounds +they possess in the words “path” and “cut” respectively, a circumflex being placed +over the latter to denote the short <i>u</i> in the word “put.” +</p> +<p>Such names, therefore, as Cushmere, Tibbut, Muhummud, Hijra, &c. have been left as +custom has ruled them, and will appear in their more well-known costume of Cashmere, +Thibet, Mahomet, and Hegira. +</p> +<p>The concluding sketch was originally intended to accompany a series of brightly-coloured +Cashmerian designs illustrative of the life of “Krishna;” and the reproduction of +these, in their integrity, not having been found feasible, the sketch itself may appear +<i>de trop.</i> +<span class="pageNum" id="xd30e221">[<a href="#xd30e221">xi</a>]</span></p> +<p>It has, however, been retained on the possibility of the translations which occur +in it being of interest to those who may not be acquainted with the style of Eastern +religious literature; while the outline it presents of some of the religions of the +East, bare and simple as it is, may be acceptable to such as are not inclined to search +out and study for themselves the necessarily voluminous and complicated details. +</p> +<p class="dateline"><span class="sc">London.</span> +<br/><i>June,</i> 1863. +<span class="pageNum" id="xd30e230">[<a href="#xd30e230">xiii</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep" /> +<div class="footnote-body"> +<div id="xd30e198"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e198src">1</a></span> <i>Vide</i> <a href="#appa">Appendix A</a>. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e198src" title="Return to note 1 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div id="toc" class="div1 contents"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Contents.</h2> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first tocChapter">Preface. <span class="tocPageNum">vii</span> +</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#intro" id="xd30e239">Introduction</a>. <span class="tocPageNum">3</span> +</p> +<p class="tocChapter">Part I. +</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#pt1">The Pleasures of the Plains</a>. <span class="tocPageNum">9</span> +</p> +<p class="tocChapter">Part II. +</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#pt2">Cashmere</a>. <span class="tocPageNum">39</span> +</p> +<p class="tocChapter">Part III. +</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#pt3">A Halt in the Valley</a>. <span class="tocPageNum">78</span> +<span class="pageNum" id="xd30e272">[<a href="#xd30e272">xiv</a>]</span></p> +<p class="tocChapter">Part IV. +</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#pt4">Little Thibet</a>. <span class="tocPageNum">129</span> +</p> +<p class="tocChapter">Part V. +</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#pt5">Ladak and the Monastery of Hemis</a>. <span class="tocPageNum">181</span> +</p> +<p class="tocChapter">Part VI. +</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#pt6">A Retreat to the Valley</a>. <span class="tocPageNum">205</span> +</p> +<p class="tocChapter">Part VII. +</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#pt7">Last Days of Travel</a>. <span class="tocPageNum">261</span> +</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#religions">The Religions of Cashmere and Thibet</a>. <span class="tocPageNum">305</span> +</p> +<p class="tocChapter">Appendix A. +</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#appa" id="xd30e320">The Temples of Cashmere</a>. <span class="tocPageNum">347</span> +</p> +<p class="tocChapter">Appendix B. +</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#appb" id="xd30e329">The Mystic Sentence of Thibet</a>. <span class="tocPageNum">362</span> +</p> +<p class="tocChapter">Appendix C. +</p> +<p class="tocChapter"><a href="#appc" id="xd30e339">A Sketch of the History of Cashmere</a>. <span class="tocPageNum">376</span> +<span class="pageNum" id="xd30e345">[<a href="#xd30e345">xv</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div1 contents"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Illustrations.</h2> +<table class="tocList"> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">1.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#frontispiece">Ladak</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum"><i>frontispiece.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">2.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p084">View in Sirinugger</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum"><i>To face p.</i> 84</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">3.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p090">Solomon’s Throne</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">90</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">4.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p092">Hurree Purbut</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">92</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">5.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p108">Martund</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">108</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">6.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p122">Pandreton</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">122</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">7.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p164-2">Lamieroo</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">164</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">8.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p176-2">Road to Egnemo</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">176</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">9.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p182">Rajah’s Palace, Ladak</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">182</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">10.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p192">Monastery of Hemis</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">192</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">11.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p268">Seventh Bridge, Sirinugger</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">268</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">12.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p306">Hindoo Temple in the Himalayas</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">306</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">13.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p311">Gunesh</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">311</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">14.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p312">Birth of Krishna</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">312</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">15.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p318">Temple Decoration, Himalayas</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">318</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">16.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p336">Ancient Jain Temple</a> </td> +<td class="tocPageNum">336</td> +</tr> +</table> +<table class="tocList xd30e510"> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">17.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#titlepage">Chubootra, or Resting-place in the Himalayas</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum"><i>Vignette Title.</i></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">18.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p003">The Head of Affairs</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">3</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">19.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p027">An Unpropitious Moment</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">27</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">20.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p029">Kismut</a> +<span class="pageNum" id="xd30e551">[<a href="#xd30e551">xvi</a>]</span></td> +<td class="tocPageNum">29</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">21.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p030">Crossing the Sutlej</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">22.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p074">A Halting-place in Cashmere</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">74</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">23.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p102">Latticed Window, Sirinugger</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">102</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">24.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p104">Sacred Tank, Islamabad</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">104</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">25.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p111">Painting <i>versus</i> Poetry</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">111</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">26.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p112">Love-lighted Eyes</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">112</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">27.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p115">Vernagh</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">115</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">28.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p121">Cashmerian Temple Sculpture</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">121</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">29.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p126">Patrun</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">126</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">30.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p152">Roadside Monument, Thibet</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">152</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">31.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p155">Road to Moulwee</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">155</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">32.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p156">Rock Sculpture</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">156</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">33.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p159">Thibetian Monument</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">159</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">34.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p164">Natives and Lama</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">164</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">35.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p167">Thibetian Religious Literature</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">167</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">36.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p170-1">Inscribed Stones</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">170</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">37.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p176">Inscribed <span class="corr" id="xd30e721" title="Source: Stones">Stone</span></a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">176</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">38.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p190">Monument at Hemis</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">190</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">39.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p199">Painted Stone</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">199</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">40.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p202">Buddha</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">202</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">41.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p241">Snow Bridge</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">241</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">42.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p266">Kangree</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">266</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">43.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p305">Ancient Hindoo Temple</a> +</td> +<td class="tocPageNum">305</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="tocDivNum">44.</td> +<td class="tocDivTitle" colspan="7"> <a href="#p322">Fukeer of Solomon’s Throne</a> </td> +<td class="tocPageNum">322</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div1 errata"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Erratum.</h2> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first xd30e799">Page 116, line 5, <i>for</i> <span class="asc">A.D.</span> 1612, <i>read</i> <span class="asc">A.D.</span> 1619. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb2">[<a href="#pb2">2</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div1 epigraph"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead"> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“Who has not heard of the Vale of Cashmere, +</p> +<p class="line xd30e815">With its roses the brightest that earth ever gave, +</p> +<p class="line">Its temples, and grottoes, and fountains as clear +</p> +<p class="line xd30e815">As the love-lighted eyes that hang over their wave?”</p> +</div> +<p><span class="pageNum" id="pb3">[<a href="#pb3">3</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div id="intro" class="div1 introduction"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#xd30e239">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="main">Introduction.</h2> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">More than a year and a half had been spent in the hottest parts of the plains of India, +and another dreaded hot season was rapidly making its approach, when, together with +a brother officer, I applied for and obtained six months’ leave of <span class="pageNum" id="pb4">[<a href="#pb4">4</a>]</span>absence for the purpose of travelling in Cashmere and the Himalayas, otherwise called +by Anglo-Indians “The Hills.” +</p> +<div class="figure p003width" id="p003"><img src="images/p003.jpg" alt="The Head of Affairs." width="508" height="489" /></div><p> +</p> +<p>We had been long enough in the country to have discovered that the gorgeous East of +our imagination, as shadowed forth in the delectable pages of the “Arabian Nights,” +had little or no connexion with the East of our experience—the dry and dusty East +called India, as it appeared, wasted and dilapidated, in its first convalescence from +the fever into which it had been thrown by the Mutiny of 1857–58. We were not long, +therefore, in making our arrangements for escaping from Allahabad, with the prospect +before us of exchanging the discomforts of another hot season in the plains, for the +pleasures of a sojourn in the far-famed valley of Cashmere, and a tramp through the +mountains of the Himalayas—the mountains, whose very name breathes of comfort and +consolation to the parched up dweller in the plains. The mountains of “the abode of +snow!” +</p> +<p>Our expeditionary force consisted at starting of but one besides the brother officer +above alluded to—the F. of the following pages—and myself. This was my Hindoo bearer, +Mr. Rajoo, whose duty it was to make all the necessary arrangements for our transport +and general welfare, and upon whose shoulders devolved the <span class="pageNum" id="pb5">[<a href="#pb5">5</a>]</span>entire management of our affairs. He acted to the expedition in the capacity of quartermaster-general, +adjutant-general, commissary-general, and paymaster to the forces; and, as he will +figure largely in the following pages, under the title of the “<abbr title="Quartermaster General">Q.M.G.</abbr>,” and comes, moreover, under the head of “a naturally dark subject,” a few words +devoted to his especial description and illumination may not be out of place. +</p> +<p>With the highest admiration for England, and a respect for the Englishman, which extended +to the very lining of their pockets, Mr. Rajoo possessed, together with many of the +faults of his race, a certain humour, and an amount of energy most unusual among the +family of the mild Hindoo. He had, moreover, travelled much with various masters, +in what are, in his own country, deemed “far lands;” and having been wounded before +Delhi, he had become among the rest of his people an authority, and to the Englishman +in India an invaluable medium for their coercion and general management. +</p> +<p>To us he proved a most efficient incumbent of the several offices we selected him +to fill. His administration no doubt did display an occasional weakness; and his conduct +as paymaster to the forces was decidedly open to animadversion; for, in this capacity, +he seemed to be under the impression <span class="pageNum" id="pb6">[<a href="#pb6">6</a>]</span>that payments, like charity, began at home, and he also laboured under a constitutional +and hereditary infirmity, which prevented him in small matters from discerning any +difference between <i lang="la">meum</i> and <i lang="la">tuum.</i> +</p> +<p>Having been employed collectively, however, it would be unfair to judge of his performances +in detail; and from his satisfactory management of the expedition, occasionally under +such trying circumstances as a break-down in the land transport, or an utter failure +in his tobacco supply, we had every reason to be satisfied with our choice. The latter +misfortune was the only one which really interfered at any time with his efficiency, +or upset his equanimity, and it unfortunately occurred always at the most inopportune +seasons, and at a time when he was undergoing his greatest hardships. +</p> +<p>As long as the supply lasted, the mysterious gurglings of his “Hubble Bubble,” or +cocoa-nut water-pipe, might be heard at almost any hour of the day or night. “Hubble +bubble, toil and trouble,” was the natural order of his existence; and when in some +peculiarly uncivilised region of our wanderings, the compound of dirt, sugar, and +tobacco, in which his soul delighted, was not forthcoming, he and his pipe seemed +at once to lose their vitality, and to become useless together. <span class="pageNum" id="pb7">[<a href="#pb7">7</a>]</span>The temporary separation which ensued, being in its way a <i lang="la">mensa et thoro,</i> was a source of trouble and inconvenience to all concerned, and we had, more than +once, cause to regret not having given the tobacco question that forethought and consideration +to which it would be well entitled by any one undertaking a similar expedition. +</p> +<p>Overlooking these weaknesses, Mr. Rajoo’s character was beyond reproach, and for the +particular work he had to perform, his combination of efficiency, portability, and +rascality, rendered him in every respect “the right man in the right place.” +</p> +<p>Such was our “head of affairs,” and such the small force he had at first to provide +for. As we passed out of India, and got further from regions of comparative <span class="corr" id="xd30e861" title="Source: civilisation">civilization</span>, his cares increased: cellar, kitchen, larder, farm-yard, tents, &c. had then to +accompany our wandering steps, and the expedition gradually increased in size, until +it attained its maximum of nearly forty. From this it again as gradually decreased, +and as one by one our retainers disappeared, it dwindled in dimensions until it finally +reached its original limited proportions, and then “we three met again,” once more +upon the plains of India. +</p> +<p>All our necessary preparations having been completed, and a sacrifice of three precious +weeks <span class="pageNum" id="pb8">[<a href="#pb8">8</a>]</span>having been duly offered to the inexorable genius who presides over public correspondence, +we reduced our impedimenta to the smallest possible compass, and with about a hundred +pounds to commence life with, all in two shilling pieces, that being the only available +coin of the realm in this our second century of British administration, we took our +departure by railway for Cawnpore. Here we found ourselves located and hospitably +entertained in the house in which our unfortunate fellow-countrywomen were confined +on their recapture from the river by the Nana Sahib, one of the few mementos of the +mutiny still left standing at Cawnpore. +</p> +<p>Next day we laid our dâk for Simla, and about six o’clock in the evening, with the +<abbr title="Quartermaster General">Q.M.G.</abbr> on the roof, and ourselves and our possessions stowed away in the innumerable holes +and corners of the rude wooden construction called a “Dâk garee,” or post coach, we +took our departure. After a few mishaps with our steed, involving the necessity of +getting out to shove behind, we entered upon the Grand Trunk Road, and with a refreshing +sense of freedom and relief, soon left Cawnpore in all its native dust and dreariness +behind us. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb9">[<a href="#pb9">9</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div class="body"> +<div id="pt1" class="div0 part"> +<h2 class="label">Part I.</h2> +<h2 class="main">The Pleasures of the Plains.</h2> +<p class="first"><i>May 21, 1860.</i>—Being fairly under weigh, our first attention was directed towards the machine which +was to be, in a great measure, our home for many days to come. Not overburdened with +springs, and not much to look at, though decidedly an extraordinary one to go, our +conveyance was by no means uncomfortable; and, stretched upon a mattress extending +its entire length, F. and I chatted over our plans and projects, and star-gazed, and +soon fell asleep, in spite of the ruts on the road and the wild discordant bugling +of our ragged coachman, who seemed to consider that, however inferior in other respects, +in a matter of music we were not to be <span class="pageNum" id="pb10">[<a href="#pb10">10</a>]</span>outdone, not even by Her Majesty’s own royal mail. At first sight, the necessity of +trying to clear such lonely roads as we were travelling was not altogether apparent; +but a slight acquaintance with the general principles and laws of progression of the +national Indian institution called a bullock-cart, or “beil-garee,” soon clears up +the difficulty. Built entirely of wood, and held together by scraps of ropes and cord, +a more hopeless-looking machine cannot exist; and drivers and bullocks alike share +in the general woodenness and impassibility of the structure. The animals, too, having probably lost all the better feelings +of their nature in such a service, are appealed to entirely through the medium of +their tails, and the operation occasionally results in the whole creaking mass being +safely deposited in some capacious rut, there to remain until “the Fates”—assuming, +perhaps, the appearance of three additional bullocks—arrive to draw it out again. +Occasionally, too, the institution comes to a halt for the night, comfortably drawn +up in the centre of the line of traffic, with a delightful disregard for aught but +the present, and an air of supreme contempt for the most eloquent music of all the +ragged coachmen on the Grand Trunk Road. +</p> +<p>Every five miles we stopped to change <span class="pageNum" id="pb11">[<a href="#pb11">11</a>]</span>our horse, and miserable indeed was the raw-boned little animal that made his appearance +on every occasion. Still the pace was kept up in spite of appearances, and at seven +<span class="asc">A.M.</span> we reached “Ghoorsahagunge”—more generally known as <i>Gooseygunge</i>—sixty miles from Cawnpore, and 197 from Delhi. +</p> +<p>Here we slept in peace until eleven o’clock, and awoke from dreams of Cashmere to +the unpleasant realities of a violent dust-storm. The usual “Khus-khus tatties,” or +screens of fragrant grass, which are kept in a continual state of moisture at door +and window, and convert the dust-charged scorching blast into a comparative coolness, +were not forthcoming, and our halt was not a pleasant one by any means: still our +faces were towards the mountains, and the pleasures of hope enabled us to take our +misfortunes with entire philosophy. We started again about five <span class="asc">P.M.</span>, when the power of the sun was somewhat abated, and encountered the usual difficulties +with refractory horses at every change. A start was in no case effected without much +management and exertion. A half-naked black generally attaches himself to each wheel; +the driver, from a post of vantage, belabours the miserable horse with all his might +and main; the <abbr title="Quartermaster General">Q.M.G.</abbr> takes a firm hold of the rails on the roof; and all <span class="pageNum" id="pb12">[<a href="#pb12">12</a>]</span>shouting, grunting, and using bad language together, away we go at full gallop, if +we are in unusual luck, for about 300 yards. Then comes a dead stop: the same operation +commences again, and so on, until the animal is sufficiently far from his last stable +to be able to look forward with some confidence to the one ahead, and resigns himself +to circumstances accordingly. One peculiarity in this peculiar country we found to +be, that in putting our steed-to, the English custom is reversed. The cart is “put-to,” not the horse; and the latter +being left standing anywhere on the road, the lumbering “garee” is dragged up to his +tail, and fastened up with a combination of straps and ropes, marvellous to behold. +</p> +<p><i>May 23.</i>—To-day we arrived at “Etawah,” where we found a very comfortable little staging bungalow, +but no supplies of either beer or butter procurable. On the road in the early morning +there were herds of deer and antelope in sight, but time being precious we left them +unmolested. +</p> +<p>As yet very little change makes its appearance in the character of the country. Level +plains, with patches of trees, mango and palm, as far as the eye can reach, and everywhere +dust, dust, dust! The palm-trees, however, with toddy parties scattered about among +them, serve to make the scene look cheerful, and, for an eastern <span class="pageNum" id="pb13">[<a href="#pb13">13</a>]</span>one, comparatively lively. In the evening we again took the road, with a hot wind +blowing strongly and steadily, and before long we were overtaken by a dust-storm, +which completely enveloped us in its murky folds, and interfered with our happiness +a good deal. Got through the night much as usual, with the addition of a midnight +vocal entertainment, which some hundreds of wolves and jackals treated us to, while +the “authorities” were looking to our welfare, by taking off and greasing our wheels. +Of travellers we meet but few, generally bullock-train parties, with soldiers, &c., +return dâks, and an occasional old Mussulman, or other native, taking advantage of +the early morning for his journey, and wrapped and swaddled up as if afraid of being +congealed by the coolness of the morning air. +</p> +<p>Every day’s journey leaves one more and more at a loss to discover the sources of +the wealth of this enormous country. The soil, for miles and miles a dead flat, is +now barren as a desert, and we meet hardly a sign of active traffic. During the night +we certainly did encounter a long train of heavily-laden bullock-waggons; but the +merchandize was gunpowder, and its destination was up, instead of down the road. +</p> +<p><i>May 24.</i>—Arrived at “Kurga,” where we <span class="pageNum" id="pb14">[<a href="#pb14">14</a>]</span>found neither bread nor butter forthcoming—nothing but—“plenty fowl, Sahib!” In the +evening we again encountered a heavy dust-storm, the worst of the season; the whole +night it continued to blow in our teeth; and between the fierce dryness of the wind +and the searching particles of dust, which visited us without ceremony, we spent anything +but an agreeable night. At three <span class="asc">A.M.</span> we reached the “Hingus Nuddee,” or river; and changing our solitary horse for two +fat bullocks, we crossed its sandy bed, and over a bridge of boats—not so genteelly, +perhaps, but much more securely, than we could have otherwise done. There were the +remains here of a handsome suspension bridge; but the chains had been cut by the rebel +Sepoys, and nothing but the pillars now remained. +</p> +<p><i>May 25.</i>—At four <span class="asc">A.M.</span> we crossed the bridge of boats over the Jumna, and found ourselves under the gloomy +battlements of the Fort of Delhi. +</p> +<p>Entering by the Calcutta Gate, we drove through large suburbs, lighted up with rows +of oil lamps, reminding one, in the dim light, a good deal of Cairo. Arriving at the +dâk bungalow, we found it such a dirty looking deserted building, and the interior +so much of a piece with the exterior, that we mounted again, <span class="pageNum" id="pb15">[<a href="#pb15">15</a>]</span>and set off to try the Hotel, or “Pahunch Ghur,”—a name originally intended to convey +the meaning “An arriving house,” but neatly and appropriately corrupted into the term +“Punch Gur,” which speaks for itself, and troubles no one much about its derivation. +We were rather disappointed with the general appearance of the city: dirt and grandeur +were closely combined, and the combination gave the usual impression of shabby genteelness +in general, not at first sight prepossessing. After driving through what might have +been an Eastern Sebastopol, from the amount of ruin about, we reached a cut-throat-looking +archway; and the coachman, here pointing to a dirty board, above his head, triumphantly +announced the “Punch Gur!” Hot and thirsty, we got out, with visions of rest and cooling +sherbets, too soon to be dispelled. Passing through long dirty halls, and up unsavoury +steps, we at last reached a sort of court, with beds of sickly flowers, never known +to bloom, and from thence issued to a suite of musty hot Moorish-looking rooms, with +gold-inlaid dust-covered tables, and a heavily-draped four-post bedstead, the very +sight of which, in such a climate, was almost enough to deprive one of sleep for ever. +Our speech forsook us, and without waiting to remark whether the lady of the house +was an <span class="pageNum" id="pb16">[<a href="#pb16">16</a>]</span>ogress, or possessed of a “rose-coloured body” and face like the full moon, we fairly +turned tail, and drove in all haste to our despised dâk bungalow, where, meekly and +with softened feelings towards that edifice, we were glad to deposit ourselves on +a couple of charpoys, or “four-legs,” as the bedstead of India is called, and endeavour +to sleep the best way we could. “Delhi,” we found, quite kept up its reputation of +being the hottest place in India. All idea of sight-seeing was out of the question, +and the whole of our energies we were obliged to expend in endeavouring to keep moderately +cool. +</p> +<p>After enjoying the two first of blessings in a hot climate—viz. a plentiful supply +of cold water and a change of raiment, we felt ourselves able to undergo the exertion +of meeting the traditional grilled fowl at breakfast, and of inspecting the curiosities +from the bazaars. At the first wish on the latter subject, we were invaded by a crowd +of bundle-carrying, yellow-turbaned, rascally merchants, who, in half a minute, had +the whole of their goods on the floor—rings, brooches, ivory ornaments, and inutilities +of all sorts and kinds, all of them exorbitantly dear, and none of any real value. +</p> +<p>We left Delhi again at about six <span class="asc">P.M.</span>, after loitering about the city for a short time, among <span class="pageNum" id="pb17">[<a href="#pb17">17</a>]</span>the teeming bazaars, some parts of which were picturesque and “Eastern” enough. Outside +the city walls, the country was ruined and dilapidated in the extreme; demolished +houses and wasted gardens telling their tale of the loss of Delhi, and our struggle +for its recapture. +</p> +<p><i>May 26.</i>—During the night, we got over seventy-three miles, and reached “Kurnaul” at seven +<span class="asc">A.M.</span> The bungalow we found unusually comfortable, being a remnant of the old régime, and +one of the few which escaped from the hands of the rebels during the mutiny. +</p> +<p>The country here begins to improve in appearance—more trees and cultivation on all +sides; and the natives appear finer specimens than their more southern relations. +The irrigation, too, seems to be carried on with more systematic appliances than further +south—the water being raised by the Persian wheel, and bullock-power introduced in +aid of manual labour. +</p> +<p><i>May 27.</i>—Arrived at Umballa at three <span class="asc">A.M.</span>, and found the staging bungalow full. The only available accommodation being a spare +charpoy in the verandah, F. took a lease of it, while I revelled in the unaccustomed +roominess of the entire carriage, and slept till six, when we got into our lodgings. +Although so near the foot of the Himalayas, the weather was so oppressive <span class="pageNum" id="pb18">[<a href="#pb18">18</a>]</span>here that exploring was out of the question; and at six <span class="asc">P.M.</span>, changing our carriage for palankeens, or <span class="corr" id="xd30e964" title="Source: dolies">doolies</span>, we commenced a tedious and dusty journey to the village of “Kalka,” the veritable +“foot of the hills,” where we were met by a string of deputies from the different +“<i>dry-lodgings</i>” in the neighbourhood, soliciting custom. The first house we came to was guarded +by an unmistakeable English hotel-keeper, of some eighteen stone; and so terrible +was the appearance she presented, with her arms akimbo, rejoicing in her mountain +air, that in our down-country and dilapidated condition, we felt quite unequal to +the exertion of stepping into <i>her</i> little parlour; and passing her establishment—something in the small bathingplace-style +of architecture—we went on to the next, very much of the same order, and called the +“Brahminee Bull.” Here, to my dismay however, standing in the selfsame position, weighing +the same number of stone, and equally confident in the purity of her air as her neighbour, +stood another female “Briton,” with the come-into-my-parlour expression of countenance, +regarding us as prey. Under the circumstances, exhausted nature gave in; though saved +from Scylla, our destiny was Charybdis, and we accordingly surrendered ourselves to +a wash, breakfast, and the <span class="pageNum" id="pb19">[<a href="#pb19">19</a>]</span>Brahminee Bull. During the day, we had a visit from a friend and ex-brother officer, +whom we had promised to stay with, at “Kussowlie,” on our road up. Kalka was not <i>hot,</i> but <i>grilling,</i> so that a speedy ascent to the station was soon agreed upon. Not caring to risk a +sun-stroke, I resigned myself to the traditional conveyance of the country, a “jhampan,” +while the other two rode up; but here, for the second time, it was “out of the fryingpan +into the fire.” Such an infernal machine as my new conveyance turned out never could +have existed in the palmiest days of the Inquisition. It was a sort of child’s cradle, +long enough for a creature of some five or six summers, made like a tray, and hung +after the fashion of a miniature four-post bedstead, with goat’s-hair curtains. The +structure is suspended, something in the fashion of a sedan-chair which has been stunted +in its growth, between two poles; between the projections of these again, before and +behind, connected by a stout strap, are two shorter bars, each supported, when in +travelling order, on the shoulders of two bearers. When the machine is in motion, +therefore, there are four men in line between the shafts. +</p> +<p>The pace is always rather fast, and down a declivity the torturers go at a run; the +result is, that prominent parts of one’s body are continually <span class="pageNum" id="pb20">[<a href="#pb20">20</a>]</span>in collision with the seat or sides of the machine, coming down from various altitudes, +according to the nature of the ground and the humour of the inquisitors. After getting +over about six miles in this graceful and pleasing manner, we reached the first of +the fir-trees, and as we rose still higher a delicious breeze came over the hills, +as precious to the parched and travel-stained pilgrim from the plains as a drop of +water to the thirstiest wanderer in the desert. Kussowlie appeared a picturesque little +station, perched at the summit of one of the first of the hilly ranges, and here I +found my two companions, burnt and red in the face as if they, too, had had their +sufferings on the road, occupied in looking over the goods of a strolling Cashmere +merchant; luckily for themselves, however, it was under the protecting superintendence +of our hostess. Our friends were living on a miniature estate commanding a magnificent +view of the mountain ranges on one side, and, on the other, the plains of the Punjab, +the scorching country from which we had just made our escape lying stretched out before +us like an enormous map in relief. Towards the mountains were the military stations +of “Dugshai” and “Subathoo,” and the boys’ asylum of “Senore,” the latter rather marring +the face of nature by the workhouse order <span class="pageNum" id="pb21">[<a href="#pb21">21</a>]</span>of its architecture. “Simla” we could just distinguish, nestled among the blue mountains +in the far distance. +</p> +<p>Here we spent a couple of days very pleasantly with our hospitable entertainers, and +satisfactorily pulled up all arrears of sleep—a luxury none can really appreciate +who have not travelled for six days and nights in the different local conveniences +I have mentioned. +</p> +<p>Before leaving we had an opportunity of seeing how England in the Himalayas makes +its morning calls. Walking, which amounts almost to an impossibility in “the plains,” +seems to be voted <i>infra dig.</i> in “the hills,” and Mrs. Kussowlie according made her appearance seated in state +in a jhampan, and borne on the shoulders of four of her slaves. +</p> +<p>These were active, wiry-looking natives, dressed in long green coats, bound with broad, +red, tight-fitting pantaloons, and with small turbans of red and green on their heads. +Altogether, a more startling-looking apparition to the uninitiated than this Himalayan +morning visitor could hardly be imagined, even in a tour through the remotest regions +of the earth. +</p> +<p><i>May 29.</i>—About six o’clock in the evening we remounted our instruments of torture and took +the road to Simla. For about seven miles <span class="pageNum" id="pb22">[<a href="#pb22">22</a>]</span>the path was down hill, and the bearers being fresh, they huddled us along at a pace +calculated to outrage our feelings most considerably, and, at the same time, with +no more consideration for our welfare than if we were so many sacks of coal. In spite +of the sufferings of the principal performers, the procession was most amusing; and +as we jolted, bumped, and bundled along, it was impossible to keep from laughing, +although crying, perhaps, would, under the circumstances, have been more appropriate. +My machine led the way, four of the inquisition being in the shafts, and four in waiting, +running along at the side with pipes, bundles, sticks, &c. Then came F. similarly +attended, and finally the <abbr title="Quartermaster General">Q.M.G.</abbr>, hubble bubble in hand, and attired in a gold embroidered cap, surrounded by a lilac +turban: seated in a sort of tray, and reclining at his case in full enjoyment of his +high position, he looked the priest of the procession, and managed to retain his dignity +in spite of the rapid and unceremonious way in which he was being whirled along. As +the moon went down we had the additional effect of torchlight to the scene, three +bearers having the special duty of running along to show the pathway to the rest. +This seemed a service of some danger, and our torch-bearers at times verged upon places +where a stumble would <span class="pageNum" id="pb23">[<a href="#pb23">23</a>]</span>have apparently extinguished both themselves and their torches for ever. About half +way we stopped for about an hour for the bearers to partake of a light entertainment +of “ghee and chupatties”—otherwise, rancid butter and cakes of flour and water. This +was their only rest and only meal, from the time they left Kussowlie at six <span class="asc">P.M.</span> until they reached Simla at eight <span class="asc">A.M.</span> The same set of bearers took us the entire distance, about thirty-five miles; and +the four men who were not actually in the shafts used to rest themselves by running, +ahead and up precipitous short cuts, so as to insure a few minutes’ pull at the pipe +of consolation before their turn arrived again. To us, supposed to be the <i>otium cum dig.</i> part of the procession, the road seemed perfectly endless. No sooner were we up one +ascent than we were down again on the other side; and when we thought Simla must be +in sight round the next turn, it seemed suddenly to become more hid than ever. In +one of these ups and downs of life my machine, during a heavy lurch, fairly gave way +to its feelings, and with a loud crash the pole broke, and down we both came, much +to my temporary satisfaction and relief. A supply of ropes and lashings, however, +formed part of the inquisitors’ stores, and we were soon under weigh again to fulfil +the remainder of our destiny. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb24">[<a href="#pb24">24</a>]</span></p> +<p>The entrance to Simla led us through a fine forest of oaks, firs, cedars, and other +large trees; and winding along through these we could, every now and then, discern, +towering over the backs of endless ranges of blue and hazy mountains, ridge upon ridge +of glittering snow, which cast its icy breath upon us even where we were, helping +us to forget the horrors of the night, and giving us a renewal of our lease of existence. +Simla itself soon opened on our view, a scattered and picturesque settlement of houses +of the most varied patterns perched about over the mountain top, just as an eligible +spot presented itself for building purposes. It is situated 8,000 feet above the level +of the sea and 7,000 over the average level of “the plains,” Umballa, which is near +the foot of the range, being 1,000 above the sea-level. From our halting-place we +could discern the scene of our night’s journey, with Kussowlie looking like a mere +speck in the distance, and we felt a proud sort of consciousness of having accomplished +a desperate undertaking in very good style. Passive endurance was, under the circumstances +quite as worthy of praise as the more active virtues displayed by those who were the +cause of our sufferings. After the first good breakfast I had eaten for three months, +we pulled up arrears of sleep till <span class="pageNum" id="pb25">[<a href="#pb25">25</a>]</span>four <span class="asc">P.M.</span> and found, on awaking, that our much expected letters had arrived from the post, +and among them the necessary permission from the Punjab Government to travel in Cashmere, +and instructions for our guidance while in the territory. From among the routes laid +down in the latter we chose No. 1.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e1016src" href="#xd30e1016">1</a> The direct line across the mountains from Simla would have entailed additional delay +and permission, and as time was precious we decided upon descending again to the plains +and making our way through Lahore, not, however, without a severe pang at leaving +so soon the terrestrial paradise of which we had got a glimpse. After arranging our +movements with the “authorities,” we sallied out to see fashionable Simla airing itself, +which, as far as dress is concerned, it appeared to do very much in the fashionable +watering-place style at home. The jhampans, palkies, dandies,<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e1022src" href="#xd30e1022">2</a> &c. which took up the entire road, however, loudly proclaimed India, Simla being +much too dainty to touch the <span class="pageNum" id="pb26">[<a href="#pb26">26</a>]</span>ground with its pretty feet, and too lazy to use its own legs for purposes of out-door +locomotion. The station seems a curious combination of many styles and places; the +scenery and houses, Swiss; the people Anglo Indians, Affghans, Cashmeeries, &c.; the +conveyances, Inquisito-Spanish; and the bazaars, in their native dirt, pure Indian. +</p> +<p><i>May 31.</i>—After making our leave secure, we made up our minds for a plunge into the plains +again and a forced march to Lahore, being rather expedited in the determination by +hearing that several travellers had been recalled from leave in consequence of there +being a scarcity of officers with their regiments. +</p> +<p>With a fine moonlight night in our favour we again took the road; and practice slightly +assuaging our sufferings, we got on smoothly enough till within a few hours from Hureepore +Bungalow, when my machine again broke with a crash, and the nature of the fracture +being compound, I walked on and left the executioners to repair the instrument at +their leisure. +</p> +<p><i>June 1.</i>—Reached Hureepore at four <span class="asc">A.M.</span>, and found the place in possession of a crowd of monkeys of all sorts and sizes, +taking an early breakfast. Here, chicken and eggs being again written in our destiny, +we halted for an hour or <span class="pageNum" id="pb27">[<a href="#pb27">27</a>]</span>two, and at eleven again took the road with our cast-iron bearers, and hurried along +in the noonday sun, up hill and down dale, through Kussowlie, and on and on till we +were once more fairly deposited at the feet of “Mrs. Charybdis.” A slight dinner here, +and at 8.30 <span class="asc">P.M.</span> we were again in train, shuffling along through several feet of dust, which the bearers, +and torch-carriers, and the rest of our numerous train, kicked up about us, in clouds +nearly dense enough to cause suffocation. +</p> +<div class="figure p027width" id="p027"><img src="images/p027.jpg" alt="An Unpropitious Moment." width="488" height="289" /></div><p> +</p> +<p><i>June 2.</i>—At 8.30 <span class="asc">A.M.</span> we arrived again at Umballa, and with nothing to comfort us in our dusty and worried +condition but the reflection that our start from Simla was a magnificent triumph of +stern determination over present enjoyment and unwonted luxury, we again resumed <span class="pageNum" id="pb28">[<a href="#pb28">28</a>]</span>our forced march. At six <span class="asc">P.M.</span> we took our departure, in a very magnificent coach, but in an “unpropitious moment,” +for the horse was unusually averse to an advance of any sort, and when we did get +clear of the station his opinions were borne out by a terrific storm of dust, with +a thunder, lightning, and rain accompaniment, which effectually put a stop to all +further progress. The horse for once had his wish, and was brought to a regular stand. +The wind howled about us, and the dusty atmosphere assumed a dull red appearance, +such as I had only once before seen at Cawnpore, and the like of which might possibly +have prevailed during the last days of Pompeii. After getting through the worst of +the storm, we pushed along, and had reached the twentieth mile-stone, when, catching +a flavour of burning wood, I looked out and found the wheel at an angle of some 30 +degrees, and rubbing against the side preparatory to taking its leave altogether. +Here was another effect of starting in an unpropitious moment. The interruption in +the great forced march preyed heavily upon our minds, but, on the principle of doing +as “Rome does,” we took a lesson from the religion of “Islam,” and concurring in the +views expressed by our attendant blacks, viz. that “whatever is written in a man’s +destiny <span class="pageNum" id="pb29">[<a href="#pb29">29</a>]</span>that will be accomplished,” we ejaculated “Kismut” with the rest, and resignedly adapted +ourselves to the writings in our own particular page of fate. Having sent back to +Umballa the news of our distress, a new conveyance in a few hours made its appearance; +and hauling it alongside the wreck, we unshipped the stores, reloaded, and eventually +reached “Thikanmajura” at eight <span class="asc">A.M.</span> +</p> +<p><i>June 3.</i>—Starting at about three o’clock <span class="asc">P.M.</span>, we found the unpropitious moment still hanging over us: first a violent dust-storm, +and then a <span class="pageNum" id="pb30">[<a href="#pb30">30</a>]</span>refractory horse, which bolted completely off the road, and nearly upset us down a +steep bank, proved to demonstration that our star was still obscured. +</p> +<div class="figure p029width" id="p029"><img src="images/p029.jpg" alt="Kismut." width="487" height="420" /></div><p> +</p> +<p>About midnight we reached the river “Sutlej,” and exchanged our horse for four fat +and humpy bullocks, who managed, with very great labour and difficulty, to drag us +through the heavy sands of the river-bed down to the edge of the water. Here we were +shipped on board a flat-bottomed boat, with a high peaked bow; and, after an immensity +of hauling and grunting, we were fairly launched into the stream, and poled across +to the opposite shore. The water appeared quite shallow, and the coolies were most +of the time in the water; but its width, including the sands forming its bed, could +not have been less <span class="pageNum" id="pb31">[<a href="#pb31">31</a>]</span>than two miles and a half. It was altogether a wild and dreary-looking scene, as we +paddled along—the wild ducks and jackals, &c. keeping up a concert on their own account, +and the patient old bullocks ruminating quietly on their prospects at our feet. +</p> +<p>On arriving at what appeared to be the opposite bank, we were taken out, and again +pulled and hauled through the deep sand, only to be reshipped again on what seemed +a respectable river in its own right; and here, getting out of patience with a stream +that had no opposite bank, I fell asleep, and left the bullocks to their sorrows and +their destiny. +</p> +<p><i>June 4.</i>—Arrived at Jullundur, where we had to share the bungalow with another traveller and +a rising family, who kept us alive by howling vigorously all day. The road from this +being “Kucha,” literally <i>uncooked,</i> but here meant to express “unmetalled,” we had yet another form of conveyance to +make acquaintance with. It was a palkee, rudely strapped upon the body of a worn-out +“Dâk garee;” and although a more unpromising-looking locomotive perhaps never was +placed upon wheels, the actual reality proved even worse than the appearance foreboded. +</p> +<p>Anybody who has happened to have been run <span class="pageNum" id="pb32">[<a href="#pb32">32</a>]</span>away with in a dust-cart through Fenchurch Street, or some other London pavement, +the gas pipes being up at the time, might form some idea of our sensations as we pounded +along, at full gallop, over some thirty miles of uneven, <i>uncooked</i> road; but to anybody who has not had this advantage, description would be impossible. +About half way, it appeared that it was written in my miserable destiny that the off +fore-wheel of my shay was to come off, and off it came accordingly; so that once more +I became an involuntary disciple of Islam, and went to sleep among the ruins, with +rather a feeling of gratitude for the respite than otherwise. On awaking, I found +myself again under way; and effecting a junction with my companion, we had a light +supper off half a water-melon; and, after crossing the River Beas by a bridge of boats, +and being lugged through another waste of sand by bullocks, we once again reached +a “cooked” road, and arrived at “Umritsur” at six <span class="asc">A.M.</span> +</p> +<p><i>June 5.</i>—Found the heat so great here that we were unable to stir out. +</p> +<p>As a consolation, we received a visit from four “Sikh Padres,” who rushed in and squatted +themselves down without ceremony, previously placing a small ball of candied sugar +on the <span class="pageNum" id="pb33">[<a href="#pb33">33</a>]</span>table as a votive and suggestive offering. The spokesman, a lively little rascal, +with a black beard tied up under his red turban, immediately opened fire, by hurling +at us all the names of all the officers he had ever met or read of. The volley was +in this style: First, the number of the regiment, then Brown Sahib, Jones Sahib, Robinson +Sahib, Smith Sahib, Tomkins Sahib, Green Sahib, and so on, regiment after regiment +and name after name, his brother Padres occasionally chiming in in corroboration of +their friend’s veracity and in admiration of his vast stock of military information. +After much trouble, we got rid of the pack, at the price of one rupee, which was cheap +for the amount of relief afforded by their departure. +</p> +<p><i>June 6.</i>—Reached Lahore at ten <span class="asc">P.M.</span> and had a night in bed, for the third time only since leaving Cawnpore. The <abbr title="Quartermaster General">Q.M.G.</abbr> being at once set to work to make the necessary arrangements for our final start +for Cashmere, we paid a hurried visit to the Tomb of Runjeet <span class="corr" id="xd30e1108" title="Source: Sing">Singh</span> and the Fort and City of Lahore. These were worth seeing, but they abounded in sights +and perfumes, which rendered the operation rather a trying one, considering the very +high temperature of the weather. +</p> +<p><i>June 7.</i>—Drove out in a dilapidated buggy, <span class="pageNum" id="pb34">[<a href="#pb34">34</a>]</span>and with an incorrigible horse, to Mean Meer, the cantonments of Lahore. The place +looked burnt up and glaring like its fellows, and a fierce hot wind swept over it, +which made us glad enough to turn our backs on it and hurry home again as fast as +our obstinate animal would take us. The <abbr title="Quartermaster General">Q.M.G.</abbr>, we found, had collected our staff of servants together, and was otherwise pushing +on our preparations as fast as the dignity and importance of the undertaking would +admit. +</p> +<p>The staff consisted of khidmutgar, bawurchie, bhistie, dhobie, and mihtar; or, in +plain English, butler, cook, water-carrier, washerman, and sweeper. +</p> +<p>Of these, the washing department only brought with it its insignia and badge of office. +This was an enormous smoothing-iron, highly ornamented with brass, decorated with +Gothic apertures, and made to contain an amount of charcoal that would have kept an +entire family warm in the coldest depths of winter. Being of great weight, we rather +objected to such an addition to our stores—the more so as our linen was not likely +to require much <i>getting-up.</i> The <i>dhobie,</i> however, declared himself unable to get on without it, and it accordingly had to +be engaged with its master. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb35">[<a href="#pb35">35</a>]</span></p> +<p><i>June 8.</i>—To-day Rajoo is still hard at work laying in stores from the bazaars and arranging +means of transport for them; the weather hot beyond measure; and as neither our food +nor quarters are very good, we begin to forget our lessons of resignation, more especially +as the mosquitoes begin to form a very aggravating item in our destiny. +</p> +<p><i>June 9.</i>—About four <span class="asc">P.M.</span> the <abbr title="Quartermaster General">Q.M.G.</abbr> came in triumphantly with about sixteen tall baskets covered with leather, which +he called “khiltas;” and having ranged them about the room like the oil-jars of “Ali +Baba,” he proceeded to cram them with potatoes, tea, clothes, brandy, and the whole +stock of our earthly goods, in a marvellous and miscellaneous manner, very trying +to contemplate, and suggestive of their entire separation from us and our heirs for +ever. +</p> +<p>Coolies not being procurable in sufficient numbers to carry away all our stores together, +F. and I agreed to start in the morning, leaving the head of affairs with the rearguard +to follow at his leisure. Got away at last in two “palkees,” with four “banghy wallahs,” +or baggage-bearers, carrying our immediate possessions, guns, &c. Spent the night +wretchedly enough, the roads being of the worst, and covered nearly a foot deep everywhere +with fine dust, which our <span class="pageNum" id="pb36">[<a href="#pb36">36</a>]</span>bearers very soon stirred up into an impenetrable cloud, enveloping us in its folds +to the verge of suffocation. +</p> +<p>The sensation is strange enough, travelling in this way along a lonely road at dead +of night, closely shut up in an oblong box, and surrounded by some twenty or more +dusky savages, who could quietly tap one on the head at any time, and appropriate +the bag of rupees—inseparable from Indian travelling—without the slightest difficulty. +That they do not do so is probably from the knowledge they possess that with the bag +of rupees there is generally to be found a revolver, and that an English traveller +is of so generous a disposition that he seldom parts from his money without giving +a little lead in with the silver. +</p> +<p><i>June 10.</i>—After a dusty jolt of forty miles, we reached “Gugerwalla” at eight <span class="asc">A.M.</span>, and felt the change from Lahore most refreshing. The village seemed a quiet little +settlement, very little visited by Englishmen, and the inhabitants, probably on that +account, appeared of a different stamp from those we had hitherto met. The women, +in particular, were more gaily dressed, and not so frightened at a white face as more +south. The rearguard not having come up at six <span class="asc">P.M.</span> we started off without it. Crossed the Chenab <span class="pageNum" id="pb37">[<a href="#pb37">37</a>]</span>during the night. The fords, by torchlight, were most picturesque, and rather exciting, +in consequence of the water at times taking it into its head to see what was inside +the “palkee.” The Chenab makes the fourth out of the “five waters” from which the +“Punjab” takes its name. The Jhelum only remains—the ancient Hydaspes of Alexandrian +notoriety. +</p> +<p><i>June 11.</i>—Reached “Goojerat” at five <span class="asc">A.M.</span> and enjoyed a few hours of quiet sleep in a very comfortable bungalow. The “khiltas” +not making their appearance, we halt here for the night. In the evening we explored +the city—a straggling rabbit-barrow settlement, inclosed by a mud wall, and boasting +the narrowest streets I had ever seen. In an open space we came upon a marvellously-ornamented +“mundir,” or Hindoo temple, painted in the most florid style, with effigies of dark +gentlemen in coloured pants riding on peacocks, antelopes, and other beasts of burden +common in the country. It seemed the centre of attraction to a numerous concourse +of strangers from the north; among others, a bevy of young ladies with loose trousers +and fair complexions, evidently “Cashmeeries,” who seemed to regard the “heathen temple” +as one of the wonders of the world. In the middle of the night the rearguard came +in with the supplies, <span class="pageNum" id="pb38">[<a href="#pb38">38</a>]</span>and we at once turned it into an advanced-guard, and packed it off to make preparations +for our arrival at “Bimber.” +</p> +<p><i>June 12.</i>—Spent a very hot day at Goojerat, and amused ourselves by inspecting the gold-inlaid +work for which the place is famous. At 5.30 <span class="asc">P.M.</span> we started for our last night’s journey in British territory; and thus terminated, +for the present, our experiences of all the hot and dusty “pleasure of the Plains.” +<span class="pageNum" id="pb39">[<a href="#pb39">39</a>]</span></p> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep" /> +<div id="xd30e1016"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e1016src">1</a></span> ROADS—I. There are four authorized routes for European visitors to Cashmere. +</p> +<p class="footnote cont"><i>First.</i> The principal road from the plains by Bimbhur and Rajâoree. This road over the “Peer +Punjal” range is not open until May, and is closed by snow at the beginning of November: +it is the old imperial route, and the stages are marked by the remains of serais. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e1016src" title="Return to note 1 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e1022"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e1022src">2</a></span> A hill conveyance something similar to a hammock, suspended from a pole, with straps +for the feet and back, and carried by two bearers. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e1022src" title="Return to note 2 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div id="pt2" class="div0 part"> +<h2 class="label">Part II.</h2> +<h2 class="main">Cashmere.</h2> +<p class="first"><i>June 13.</i>—About two <span class="asc">A.M.</span> we passed out of India into the territory of His Highness the Maharajah of Cashmere, +and halted at Bimber. The accommodation here turned out to be most indifferent, although +in our route the edifice for travellers was called a “Baraduree,” which sounded grandly. +It means a summer-house with twelve doors; but beyond the facilities it afforded of +rapid egress, we found it to possess but few advantages. +</p> +<p>Putting a couple of charpoys outside, we managed a few hours’ sleep <i>al fresco,</i> in spite of the flies and mosquitoes innumerable, who lost no time in taking possession +of their new property. <span class="pageNum" id="pb40">[<a href="#pb40">40</a>]</span>On being able to discern the face of the country, we found ourselves at the foot of +a range of hills of no great height, but still veritable hills; and although the sun +was nearly as hot as in the plains, we felt that we were emancipated from India, and +that all our real travelling troubles were over. In the evening we inspected the Maharajah’s +troops, consisting of eight curiously-dressed and mysteriously-accoutred sepoys under +a serjeant. These same troops had rather astonished us in the morning by filing up +in stage style in front of our two charpoys just as we awoke, and delivering a “Present +arms” with great unction as we sat up in a half-sleepy and dishevelled condition, +rubbing our eyes, and not exactly in the style of costume in which such a salute is +usually received. We now found the “army” in the domestic employment of cooking their +victuals, so that we were unable to have much of a review. However, we looked at their +arms and accoutrements; ammunition they had none; and saw them perform the “manual +and platoon.” Their arms had been matchlocks, but had been converted, these stirring +times, into flintlocks! In addition to these, which were about as long as a respectable +spear, they had each a sword and shield, together with a belt and powder-horn, all +clumsy in the extreme. <span class="pageNum" id="pb41">[<a href="#pb41">41</a>]</span>In loading, we found an improvement on the English fashion, for, after putting the +imaginary charge in with the hand, they <i>blew</i> playfully down the muzzle to obviate the difficulty of the powder sticking to the +sides. After presenting the troops with “bukhshish,” we strolled through the village +and met the “thanadar,” or head man, coming out to meet us, arrayed in glorious apparel +and very tight inexpressibles, and mounted on a caparisoned steed. Dismounting, he +advanced towards us salaaming, and holding out a piece of money in the palm of his +hand; and not exactly knowing the etiquette of the proceeding, we touched it and left +it where we found it, which appeared to be a relief to his mind, for he immediately +put it in his pocket again. +</p> +<p>His chief conversation was on the subject of the Maharajah and the delights of Cashmere, +and anxiety as to our having got all supplies, &c. which we required, as he had been +appointed expressly for the purpose of looking after the comfort of the English visitors. +What with our friend and his train, and the detachment of “<i>the army</i>” which had accompanied us, our retinue began to assume the appearance of a procession; +and it was with great difficulty that we induced them all to leave us, which they +did at last after <span class="pageNum" id="pb42">[<a href="#pb42">42</a>]</span>we had expressed our full satisfaction at the courtesy displayed by the Maharajah’s +very intelligent selection of a “thanadar.” +</p> +<p><i>June 14.</i>—Broke up our camp about three <span class="asc">A.M.</span> and started our possessions at four o’clock, after some difficulty in prevailing +upon the coolies to walk off with their loads. On mustering our forces, we found that +they numbered thirty-seven, including ourselves. Of these twenty-four were coolies, +carrying our possessions—beer, brandy, potatoes, &c.; our servants were six more; +then there were four ponies, entailing a native each to look after them; and, last +of all, one of the redoubtable “army” as a guard, who paraded in the light marching +order of a sword, shield, bag of melons, and an umbrella. F. and I travelled on “yaboos,” +or native ponies—unlikely to look at, but wonderful to go. Mine was more like a hatchet +than anything else, and yet the places he went over and the rate he travelled up smooth +faces of rock was marvellous to behold. +</p> +<p>About eight o’clock we found ourselves once more among the pine-trees; and, although +the sun was very powerful, we had enough of the freshness of the mountain air to take +away the remembrance of the dusty plains from our minds. No rain having fallen as +yet, the springs and rivers were all nearly dry; but we saw several <span class="pageNum" id="pb43">[<a href="#pb43">43</a>]</span>rocky beds, which gave good promise of fly-fishing, should they receive a further +supply of water. +</p> +<p>About nine <span class="asc">A.M.</span> we reached our halting-place, “Serai Saidabad,” a ruined old place, with a mud tenement +overlooking, at some elevation, the banks of a river. +</p> +<p>Here we were again received with a salute, by a detachment of warriors drawn up in +full dress—viz. red and yellow turbans, and blue trousers with a red stripe. +</p> +<p>After undergoing a refreshing bath of a skin of water, taken in our drawing-room, +we got our artist to work at breakfast, and shortly after found, with considerable +satisfaction, that we were in for the first of the rains. This welcome fact first +proclaimed itself by the reverberation of distant thunder from among the mountains +to the north; then an ominous black cloud gradually spread itself over us, and, with +a storm of dust, down came the rain in torrents, making the air, in a few minutes, +cool and delicious as possible, and entirely altering the sultry temperature which +had previously prevailed. The thirsty ground soaked up the moisture as if it had never +tasted rain, and the trees came out as if retouched by Nature’s brush; while as, for +F. and myself, we turned the unwonted coolness to the <span class="pageNum" id="pb44">[<a href="#pb44">44</a>]</span>best account we could, by setting ourselves to work to pull up all arrears of sleep +forthwith. +</p> +<p><i>June 15.</i>—Started at four <span class="asc">A.M.</span>, with our numerous train, and found the road all the pleasanter for the rain of the +previous evening, and all things looking green and fresh after the storm. Our path +led us up a rocky valley, with its accompanying dashing stream, in the bed of which +we could see traces of what the brawler had been in his wilder days, in huge and polished +boulders and water-worn rocks, which had been hurled about in all directions. We afterwards +went straight up a precipitous mountain, wooded with pine, which was no light work +for the coolies, heavily laden as they were. No sooner, however, were we on the top +of this than down we went on the other side; and how the ponies managed their ups-and-downs +of life was best known to themselves; certainly, nothing but a cat or a Cashmere pony +could have got over the ground. About nine <span class="asc">A.M.</span> we reached “Nowshera,” under another salute, where we found an indifferent-looking +“Baraduree,” completely suffocated among the trees of a garden called the “Bauli Bagh,” +or “Reservoir Garden,” from a deep stone well in the centre of it. Here we got on +indifferently well, the weather being close after the rain, and the place thickly +inhabited by crowds of sparrows, <span class="pageNum" id="pb45">[<a href="#pb45">45</a>]</span>all with large families, who made an incessant uproar all day long; besides an army +of occupation of small game, which interfered sadly with our sleeping arrangements +at night. In the evening we made the acquaintance of a loquacious and free-and-easy +gardener, entirely innocent of clothes, who came and seated himself between F. and +myself, as we were perched upon a rock enjoying the prospect. According to his account, +the Maharajah’s tenants pay about seven rupees, or fourteen shillings, per annum for +some five acres of land. In the middle of the night we came in for another storm of +thunder and lightning, which took a good many liberties with our house, but cooled +the air; and only for the mosquitoes, and other holders of the property, whose excessive +attentions were rather embarrassing, we would have got on very well. As it was, however, +I hardly closed an eye all night, and spent the greater part of it in meandering about +the Bauli Bagh, <i>vestito da notte</i>—in which operation I rejoice to think that, like the Russians at the burning of Moscow, +I at least put the enemy to very considerable inconvenience, even at the expense of +my own comfort. +</p> +<p><i>June 16.</i>—About half-past four <span class="asc">A.M.</span> we got under weigh again, heartily delighted to leave <span class="pageNum" id="pb46">[<a href="#pb46">46</a>]</span>the sparrows and their allies in undisputed possession of their property. +</p> +<p>The “kotwal,” and other authorities, who had been extremely civil in providing supplies, +coolies, &c., according to the Maharajah’s order, took very good care not to let us +depart without a due sense of the fact, for they bothered us for “bukhshish” just +as keenly as the lowest muleteer; and when I gave the kotwal twelve annas, or one +shilling and sixpence, as all the change I had, he assured me that the khidmutgar +had more, and ran back to prove it by bringing me two rupees. I gave the scoundrel +one, and regretted it for three miles, for he had robbed the coolies in the morning, +either on his own or his master’s account, of one anna, or three-halfpence each, out +of their hardly-earned wages. To-day we find ourselves once more among the rocks and +pines, and as we progressed nothing could exceed the beauty of the views which opened +upon us right and left. A mountain stream attended our steps the whole way sometimes +smoothly and placidly, sometimes dancing about like a mad thing, and teasing the sturdy +old battered rocks and stones which long ago had settled down in life along its path, +and which, from the amount of polish they displayed, must themselves have been finely +knocked about the world in their <span class="pageNum" id="pb47">[<a href="#pb47">47</a>]</span>day. Rounding a turn of the river, where it ran deeply under its rocky bank, we came +suddenly upon the ghastly figure of a man carefully suspended in chains from a prominent +tree. His feet had been torn off by the wolves and jackals, but the upper part of +the body remained together, and there he swung to and fro in the breeze, a ghastly +warning to all evildoers, and a not very pleasing monument of the justice of the country. +He was a sepoy of the Maharajah’s army, who had drowned his comrade in the stream +below the place where he thus had expiated his crime. Not far from this spot we discovered +traces of another marauder, in the shape of a fresh footprint of a tiger or a leopard, +just as he had prowled shortly before along the very path we were pursuing. +</p> +<p>From this we gradually got into a region of fruit-trees, interspersed with pines; +and sometimes we came upon a group of scented palms, which looked strangely enough +in such unusual company. Through clustering pomegranates, figs, plums, peach-trees, +wild but bearing fruit, we journeyed on and on; and, as new beauties arose around +us, we could not help indulging in castles in the air, and forming visions of earthly +paradises, where, with the addition only of such importations as are inseparable from +all ideas of paradise, either in Cashmere or elsewhere, one <span class="pageNum" id="pb48">[<a href="#pb48">48</a>]</span>might live in uninterrupted enjoyment of existence, and, at least, bury in oblivion +all remembrance of such regions as the “Plains of India.” +</p> +<p>About ten <span class="asc">A.M.</span>, after a continuous series of ups-and-downs of varied scenery, we arrived at “Chungas,” +a picturesque old serai, perched upon a hill over the river. It was marked off in +our route as having no accommodation, but, located among the mouldering remnants of +grandeur of an old temple in the centre of the serai, we managed to make ourselves +very comfortable, and thought our “accommodation” a most decided improvement upon +our late fashionable but rather overcrowded halting-place. From the serai we can see, +for the first time, the snowy range of the Himalayas, trending northwards, towards +the Peer Punjal Pass, through which our route leads into the Valley of Cashmere. +</p> +<p><i>June 17.</i>—Another ride through hill and dale to “Rajaori,” or “Rampore,” a most picturesque-looking +town, built in every possible style of architecture, and flanked at one extremity +by a ruined castle. Our halting-place was in an ancient serai, with a dilapidated +garden, containing the remains of some rather handsome fountains. It was situated +on a rock, several hundred feet above the river which separated us <span class="pageNum" id="pb49">[<a href="#pb49">49</a>]</span>from the town; and, from our elevated position, we had a fine view of the whole place, +and got an insight into the manners and customs of the inhabitants, without their +being at all aware of our proximity. +</p> +<p>The women and children appeared to be dressed quite in the Tartar style: the women +with little red square-cornered fez caps, with a long strip of cloth thrown gracefully +over them, and either pyjamas of blue stuff with a red stripe, or a long loose toga +of greyish cloth, reaching nearly to the feet. The little girls were quite of the +bullet-headed Tartar pattern, of Crimean recollection, but wore rather less decoration. +The Crimean young ladies generally had a three cornered charm suspended round their +necks, while the youthful fashion of Rajaori, scorning all artificial adornment, selected +nature only as their mantua-maker, and wore their dresses strictly according to her +book of patterns. After enjoying a delightfully cool night in our elevated bedroom, +we started for “Thanna.” +</p> +<p>Our path led through a gradually ascending valley, cultivated, for the rice crop, +in terraces, and irrigated by a complicated net-work of channels, cut off from the +mountain streams, and branching off in every direction to the different elevations. +The ground was so saturated <span class="pageNum" id="pb50">[<a href="#pb50">50</a>]</span>in these terraces that ploughing was carried on by means of a large scraper, like +a fender, which was dragged along by bullocks, the ploughman standing up in the machine +as it floundered and wallowed about, and guiding it through the sea of mud. +</p> +<p><i>June 18.</i>—Reached Thanna at nine <span class="asc">A.M.</span> and came to a halt in a shady spot outside the village. There was an old serai about +half a mile off, but it was full of merchants and their belongings, and savoured so +strongly of fleas and dirt, that we gave it up as impracticable. +</p> +<p>This was the first instance of our finding no shelter; and, as ill luck would have +it, our tents took the opportunity of pitching themselves on the road, a number of +coolies broke down, and one abandoned our property and took himself off altogether. +Under these interesting circumstances, we were obliged to spend the day completely +<i>al fresco,</i> and to wait patiently for breakfast until the fashionable hour of half-past two <span class="asc">P.M.</span> The inhabitants took our misfortunes very philosophically, and stopped to stare at +us to their heart’s content as they went by for water, wondering, no doubt, at that +restless nature of the crazy Englishman, which drives him out of his own country for +the sole purpose, apparently, of being uncomfortable in other people’s. Our <span class="pageNum" id="pb51">[<a href="#pb51">51</a>]</span>position, although at the foot of the grander range of mountains, we found very hot, +and a good deal of ingenuity was required in order to find continued shelter from +the scorching rays of the sun. The natives here, seemed to suffer to a great extent +from goitre, and one of our coolies in particular had three enormous swellings on +his neck, horrible to look at. During the night, Rajoo came in with the missing baggage, +except two khiltas, for which no carriage could be procured, and which he was in consequence +obliged to abandon on the road until assistance could be sent to them. +</p> +<p><i>June 19.</i>—Started at daybreak from our unsatisfactory quarters, and enjoyed some of the finest +scenery we had yet encountered. The road ascended pretty sharply into what might be +called the <i>real</i> mountains, and finding our spirits rise with the ground, we abandoned our ponies +and resolved to perform the remainder of our wanderings on foot. As we reached the +summit of our first ascent, and our range of view enlarged, mountain upon mountain +rose before us, richly clothed with forest trees; while, overtopping all, peeped up +the glistening summits of the snowy range, everything around <span class="corr" id="xd30e1279" title="Source: seem">seems</span> cool and pleasant, in spite of the hot sun’s rays, which still poured down upon us. +Our road from this, <span class="pageNum" id="pb52">[<a href="#pb52">52</a>]</span>descending, lay among the nooks and dells of the shady side of the mountain; and the +wild rose and the heliotrope perfumed the air at every step as we walked along in +full enjoyment of the morning breeze. Our sepoy guide of to-day was not of the educated +branch of the army. He was the stupidest specimen of his race I had ever met; and +as his language was such a jargon as to be nearly unintelligible, we failed signally +in obtaining much information from him. +</p> +<p>Among other questions, I made inquiries as to woodcock, the cover being just suited +to them, and after a great deal of difficulty in explaining the bird to him, he declared +that he knew the kind of creature perfectly, and that there were plenty of them. By +way of convincing us, however, of his sporting knowledge, he added that they were +in the habit of living entirely on fruit; and he was sadly put out when F. and I both +burst into laughter at the idea of an old woodcock with his bill stuck into a juicy +pear, or perhaps enjoying a pomegranate for breakfast. Shortly after, we came suddenly +upon quite a new feature in the scene—a strange innovation of liveliness in the midst +of solitude. +</p> +<p>At a bend in the road, what should appear almost over our heads but a troop of about +a hundred monkeys, crashing through the firs and <span class="pageNum" id="pb53">[<a href="#pb53">53</a>]</span>chestnuts, and bounding in eager haste from tree to tree, in their desire to escape +from a party of natives coming from the opposite direction. They were large brown +monkeys, of the kind called lungoors, standing, some of them, three feet high, and +having tails considerably longer than themselves. Their faces were jet black, fringed +with light grey whiskers, which gave them a most comical appearance; and as they jumped +along from tree to tree, sometimes thirty and forty feet, through the air, with their +small families following as best they could, they made the whole forest resound with +the crashing of the branches, and amused us not a little by their aërial line of march. +</p> +<p>After crossing a dashing mountain-torrent by a rude bridge of trees thrown across +it, we arrived at the village of Burrumgulla. Here our guide wanted us to halt in +a mud-built native serai, but, with the recollection of past experience fresh upon +us, we declined, preferring to choose our own ground and pitch our first encampment. +The ground we selected was almost at the foot of a noble waterfall, formed by a huge +cleft in a mass of rugged rock. The water, dashing headlong down, was hidden in the +recess of rock below, but the spray, as it rose up like vapour and again fell around +us, plainly told the history of <span class="pageNum" id="pb54">[<a href="#pb54">54</a>]</span>its birth and education. Even had we not seen the snowy peaks before us from the mountain +top, there was no mistaking, from its icy breath, the nursery in which its infant +form had been cradled. Just at our feet was one of the frail and picturesque-looking +pine bridges spanning the torrent; while just below it another mountain river came +tumbling down, and, joining with its dashing friend, they both rolled on in life together. +As soon as our traps arrived, F. and I had a souse in the quietest pool we could find, +and anything so cold I never felt; it was almost as if one was turned into stone, +and stopping in it more than a second was out of the question. After breakfast and +a <i>siesta,</i> we sallied out to try and explore the head of the cataract above us. After rather +a perilous ascent over loose moss and mould, and clutching at roots of shrubs and +trees, we were brought to a stand by a huge mass of perpendicular rock, which effectually +barred us from the spot through which the water took its final leap. The upper course +of the torrent, however, amply repaid us for our labour, for it ran through the most +lovely dell I ever saw; and as it bounded down from rock to rock, and roared and splashed +along, it seemed to know what there was before it, and to be rejoicing at the prospect +of its mighty jump. Torrent <span class="pageNum" id="pb55">[<a href="#pb55">55</a>]</span>as it seemed, it was evidently nothing to what it could swell to when in a rage, for +here and there, far out of its present reach, and scattered all about, were torn and +tattered corpses of forest trees, which had evidently been sucked up and carried along +until some rock more abrupt than its neighbours, had brought them to a stand and left +them, bleached and rotting, in the summer’s sun. At night we found ourselves glad +to exchange our usual covering of a single sheet for a heavy complement of blankets, +and found our encampment not the least too warm. The authorities here were particularly +civil and obliging, and supplied us with the best of butter, eggs, and milk. The latter +was particularly good, and, not having often tasted cow’s milk in the Plains, we did +it ample justice here. +</p> +<p><i>June 20.</i>—Found it rather hard to turn out this morning, in consequence of the great change +in the temperature, but got under weigh very well considering. Our path led us up +the main torrent towards the snow, and in the first three miles we crossed about twenty +pine-tree bridges thrown across the stream, some of them consisting of a single tree, +and all in the rudest style of manufacture. Near one of these, under an immense mass +of rock, we passed our first snow. It looked, however, so strange and unexpected, +<span class="pageNum" id="pb56">[<a href="#pb56">56</a>]</span>that we both took it for a block of stone; and being thatched, as it were, with leaves +and small sticks, &c., and discoloured on all sides, it certainly bore no outward +resemblance to what it really was. +</p> +<p>After an almost perpendicular ascent up natural flights of steps, we reached our next +stage, Poshana—a little mud-built, flat-roofed settlement on the mountain-side. Here +we engaged a couple of “shikàrees,” or native sportsmen, and made preparations for +a <i>détour</i> into the snows of the Peer Punjal in search of game. +</p> +<p><i>June 21.</i>—Having made a division of our property, and sent the <abbr title="Quartermaster General">Q.M.G.</abbr> with an advanced guard two stages on to Heerpore, F. and I started at daybreak for +a five-days’ shooting expedition in the mountains. +</p> +<p>We took with us a khidmutgar and bhistie—both capital servants, but unfortunately +not accustomed to cold, much less to snow. Besides these, we had ten coolies to carry +our baggage, consisting of two small tents, bedding, guns, and cooking utensils, &c.; +and our two shikàrees with their two assistants. The two former wore named Khandàri +Khan and Baz Khan,—both bare-legged, lightly clothed, sharp-eyed, hardy-looking mountaineers, +and well acquainted <span class="pageNum" id="pb57">[<a href="#pb57">57</a>]</span>with the haunts of game, and passes through the snow. +</p> +<p>For the first time we had now to put on grass shoes or sandals; and though they felt +strange at first, we soon found that they were absolutely necessary for the work we +had before us. Our shoemaker charged us six annas, or ninepence, for eight pairs, +and that was thirty per cent. over the proper price. However, as one good day’s work +runs through a new pair, they are all the better for being rather cheap. Along the +road in all directions one comes across cast-off remains of shoes, where the wearer +has thrown off his worn-out ones and refitted from his travelling stock; and in this +way the needy proprietor of a very indifferent pair of shoes may, perchance, make +a favourable exchange with the cast-off pair of a more affluent pedestrian; but, to +judge from the specimens we saw, he must be very needy indeed in order to benefit +by the transaction. On leaving Poshana, we immediately wound up the precipitous side +of a mountain above us, and soon found that, from the rarification of the air, and +the want of practice, we felt the necessity of calling a halt very frequently, for +the purpose, of course, of admiring the scenery and expatiating upon the beauties +of nature. About two miles on the <span class="pageNum" id="pb58">[<a href="#pb58">58</a>]</span>way we came to a slip in the mountain-side, and just as we scrambled, with some difficulty, +across this, our foremost shikàree suddenly dropped down like a stone, and motioning +us to follow his example, he stealthily pointed us out four little animals, which +he called “markore,” grazing at the bottom of a ravine. Putting our sights to about +250 yards, we fired both together, with the best intentions, but indifferent results; +for they all scampered off apparently untouched, and we again resumed our march. +</p> +<p>Our encamping ground we found situated among a shady grove of fir-trees, with a mountain-torrent +running beneath, bridged over, as far as we could see, with dingy-looking fields of +snow and ice. Here, in the middle of June; with snow at our feet, above us, and around +us, we pitched our tent, and had breakfast, and laid our plans for a search for game +to-morrow. Though the wind blew cold and chilly off the snows, we soon found that +the midday sun still asserted his supremacy, and our faces and hands soon bore witness +to the fierceness of the trial of strength between the two. Our camp, although so +high up, was not more than six miles from Poshana, and from thence we drew all our +supplies, such as milk, eggs, and fowls, &c., the coolies’ and shikàrees’ subsistence +being deducted <span class="pageNum" id="pb59">[<a href="#pb59">59</a>]</span>from their pay. Our own living was not expensive: fowls, threepence each for large, +three-halfpence small; milk, three-halfpence per quart, and eggs, twelve for the like +amount, or one anna. For the rest, we lived upon chupatties, or unleavened cakes of +flour—very good hot, but “gutta-percha” cold—potatoes from Lahore, and, in the liquid +line, tea and brandy. At night we slept upon the ground—pretty hard it was while one +was awake to feel it—and not having any lamp, we turned in shortly after dark, while +in the morning we were up and dressed before the nightingales had cleared their voices. +These latter abounded all about us, and formed a most agreeable addition to our establishment. +</p> +<p><i>June 22.</i>—Left our camp before sunrise, and crossing a large field of snow over the main torrent, +we clambered up the precipitous side of our opposite mountain. The snow at first felt +piercingly cold as it penetrated our snow-shoes, but before we reached the top, we +had little to complain of in the way of chilliness. Our sharp-sighted guides soon +detected game on the rocks above us, and off we went on a stalk, over rocks and chasms +of snow—now running, now crawling along, more like serpents than respectable Christians, +and all in a style that would have <span class="pageNum" id="pb60">[<a href="#pb60">60</a>]</span>astonished nobody more than ourselves, could we have regarded the performance in the +cool light of reason, and not influenced by the excitement of chasing horned cattle +of such rare and curious proportions. +</p> +<p>The markore, however, were quite as interested in the sport as we were, and after +an arduous and protracted stalk, they finally gave us the slip, and we called a halt +at the summit of a hill for breakfast and a rest during the heat of the day. The former +we enjoyed as we deserved, but for the latter I can’t say much: occasionally a cold +blast from off the snow would run right through us, while the sun bore down upon our +heads with scorching power, making havoc with whatever part of us it found exposed +to its rays, and blistering our hands and legs. The guides helped us out by building +up a most ricketty-looking shanty with sticks and pieces of their garments and our +own, and under this apology for shelter, with our feet almost in the snow, we passed +the day, until it was cool enough again to look for game. In the evening we came suddenly +upon a kustura, a sort of half goat, half sheep, with long teeth like a wolf. He was, +however, in such thick cover, that we were unable to get a shot at him. +</p> +<p>Our camp, we found, moved, according to <span class="pageNum" id="pb61">[<a href="#pb61">61</a>]</span>order, some three miles higher up, to facilitate the shooting on that side: it was +still, however, among the firs and nightingales. +</p> +<p><i>June 23.</i>—Up again before sunrise, and off to the tops of the mountains in search of game. +The pull-up took us about an hour and a half, and on reaching the summit, we found +ourselves above the pass of the Peer Punjal, the rocky and snow-covered ranges of +mountain around us gradually trending off on all sides, and losing themselves in pine-covered +slopes, till they finally blended with the blue outlines of the ranges of Pills we +had crossed on our route from Bimber. While taking a sharp look around us for a herd +of some twenty animals which we had seen the day previously, we suddenly found ourselves +close to a party of five markore, but they scampered off so fast over rock and snowdrift, +that they gave us no opportunity of getting a shot. +</p> +<p>Following them up, we came, while clinging to an overhanging ledge of rock, upon one +solitary gentleman standing about 150 yards below. We both fired together, but the +pace we had come, and the ground we had crossed, had unsteadied our aim, and though +my second bullet parted the wool on his back, it was not written that our first markore +was to fall so easily. <span class="pageNum" id="pb62">[<a href="#pb62">62</a>]</span>After this we tracked the first herd for a long distance over the snow, until they +scampered down an almost perpendicular face of snow and ice, and here we gave them +up, halting on a spur of the mountain for a repast of chicken, eggs, chupatties, and +cold tea. During our morning’s work we had come across some most break-neck places, +and had one or two narrow escapes, which, at the time, one was hardly conscious of. +The snow was wedged into the ravines like sheets of ice, and being most precipitous, +and continuing to the very foot of the mountains, terminating in the numerous torrents +which they fed, a single false step in crossing would have sent one rolling down, +without a chance of stopping, to be dashed to pieces at the bottom. In this way, a +couple of years before, two coolies and a shikàree had been killed, while shooting +with an officer. F. and I generally crossed these places in the footsteps of the guides, +or in holes cut by them for our feet with a hatchet; but the men themselves passed +them with a dash, which only long practice and complete confidence could have imitated. +During our halt we suffered a good deal from the sun, although the snow was only six +inches off. In spite of the shade which our guides constructed for us out of mysterious +portions of their dress, both our wrists and ankles were completely <span class="pageNum" id="pb63">[<a href="#pb63">63</a>]</span>swollen and blistered before evening, while our faces and noses in particular began +to assume the appearance so generally suggestive of Port wine and good living. +</p> +<p>Our descent to the camp was a good march in itself, and we arrived there about five +<span class="asc">P.M.</span> hot and tired, ‘but quite ready for our mountain fare. On our road, we luckily discovered +a quantity of young rhubarb, growing in nature’s kitchen-garden, and pouncing on it, +we devoted it to the celebration of our Sunday dinner.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e1349src" href="#xd30e1349">1</a> We also saw a number of minaur, or jungle-fowl, something of the pheasant tribe; +but they were so wild that nothing but slugs would secure them, and they entirely +declined the honour of an invitation to our Sunday entertainment. +</p> +<p><i>June 24.</i>—We were not at all sorry to remember this morning, as the sun rose, that it was a +day of rest, for after our last few days of work we were fully able to enjoy it. Amused +ourselves exploring all about us, and picking wild flowers in memory of our camp. +The commonest were wild pansy and forget-me-not, and the rhododendron grew in quantities. +In the afternoon we made a muster of our standing provisions, <span class="pageNum" id="pb64">[<a href="#pb64">64</a>]</span>having only brought four days’ supply, and seeing little chance of getting back for +ten. The result was., that tea was reported low, potatoes on their last legs, and +brandy in a declining state. Under these melancholy circumstances, we agreed to stop +another day for shooting, and then march over the snows for Aliabad and Heerpore, +to join our main body at the latter place. A road by Cheta Panee was declared impracticable +for coolies, in consequence of the hardness of the snow; so we gave it up. +</p> +<p><i>June 25.</i>—All over the mountains again this morning before daybreak, and up to breakfast-time +without seeing game. However, one of our sharp-sighted guides then detected markore, +grazing at a long distance up the mountains; even through the glasses they were mere +specks, and, to our unpractised eyes, very like the tufts and stones around them; +but in all faith that our guides were right, off we started in pursuit. The first +step was to lose all our morning’s toil by plunging for a mile or so down a steep +descent. After that being accomplished, up we went again, up and up an apparently +interminable bank of snow, at an angle of about sixty degrees, and slippery as glass. +At the summit, exhausted and completely out of breath, we did at last arrive, and +from this our friends of the morning were <span class="pageNum" id="pb65">[<a href="#pb65">65</a>]</span>expected to be within shot. Not a sign of a living creature appeared, however, to +enliven the solitude around us, and we began to think that our guides were a little +<i>too</i> clear-sighted this time, when what should suddenly come upon us but a solitary old +markore, slowly and leisurely rounding a rugged point of rock below. We were all squatted +in a bunch upon a space about as large as a good-sized towel; but, hidden as we thought +ourselves, I could discern that our friend had evidently caught a glimpse of something +which displeased him in his morning cogitations. Still, on he came, and just as he +crossed a small field of snow, F. opened fire at him across the ravine: the ball struck +just below his body, and, as he plunged forward, I followed with both barrels. On +he went, however, and before another shot could be fired he was coolly looking down +upon us from a terrace of inaccessible rocks, completely out of range. Nothing remained +but to descend again, and this we accomplished very much more speedily, though perhaps +not quite in such a graceful style as we had ascended. The shikàrees merely sat down +on the inclined plane, and with a hatchet or a stick firmly pressed under the arm +as a lever to regulate the pace, or a rudder to steer clear of rocks as occasion might +require, down they went at a tremendous pace, <span class="pageNum" id="pb66">[<a href="#pb66">66</a>]</span>until the slope was not sufficient to propel them further. +</p> +<p>Our own wardrobe being limited in dimensions we declined adopting this mode of locomotion, +and slipping and sliding along, soon accomplished the descent, in a less business-like +but equally satisfactory manner. While taking the direction of our camp, we espied +seven more animals, perched apparently upon a smooth face of rock; and after a short +council of war off we started on a fresh stalk, down another descent, over more fields +of snow, and up a place where a cat would have found walking difficult. +</p> +<p>While accomplishing this latter movement, our guides detected two huge red bears, +an enormous distance off, enjoying themselves in the evening air, and feeding and +scratching themselves alternately, as they sauntered about in the breeze. Abandoning +our present stalk, which was not promising, down we went again, and crossing about +a mile and a half of broken ground, snow, rocks, &c., we reached a wood close to the +whereabouts of our new game. F. and I, separating, had made the place by different +routes, and just as I had caught sight of one enormous monster, F. and the shikàree +appeared, just on the point of walking into his jaws. Having, by great exertion, prevented +this <span class="pageNum" id="pb67">[<a href="#pb67">67</a>]</span>catastrophe, we massed our forces, and taking off our hats, just as if we were stalking +an unpopular landed proprietor in Tipperary, we crept up to within sixty yards of +the unsuspicious monster, and fired both together. With a howl and a grunt, the huge +mass doubled himself up, and rolled into the cover badly wounded. Being too dangerous +a looking customer to follow directly, we reloaded and made a circuit above him; and +after a short search, discovered him with his paws firmly clasped round a young tree. +By way of finishing him, I gave him the contents of my rifle behind the ear, and we +then rolled him down a ravine on to the snow beneath, where, a heavy storm of rain, +hail, and thunder coming on, we left him alone in his glory. Putting our best legs +foremost, we made for our camp, amid a pelting shower of hail like bullets and an +incessant play of lightning around us, as we pushed our way along the frozen torrent. +About five <span class="asc">P.M.</span><span class="corr" id="xd30e1373" title="Not in source">,</span> tired and drenched, we reached the camp, when we discovered that our tents, though +extremely handy for mountain work, were not intended to keep out much rain, and that +all our rugs, and other comforts, were almost in as moist a state as ourselves. During +the entire night it continued to hail, rain, thunder, and lighten; and with the exception +of the exact <span class="pageNum" id="pb68">[<a href="#pb68">68</a>]</span>spots we were each lying on, there was not a dry place in the tent to take refuge +in. +</p> +<p><i>June 26.</i>—After an exceedingly moist night, we made the most of a little sunshine by turning +out all our property, and hanging it around us on stones and bushes to dry. After +we had distinguished ourselves in this way, for a couple of hours, down came the rain +again; and after stowing our half-dried goods, we assembled under a tree, and held +a council of war as to our future movements. The rain had swelled the mountain torrents +considerably, and the hail, lying on the old snow, had made it slippery as glass, +so that we were obliged to give up the mountain pass we had agreed upon, and decided +on a retreat to “Poshana,” our present ground being fairly untenable. Sending off +our tents and traps, and half-drowned servants, who were completely out of their element, +we remained behind under the pines till the rain a little abated, and having secured +the bear-skin for curing, we started off with our rear-guard for Poshana. The road +was so slippery, that even with grass-shoes we could hardly keep from falling; and +the snow we found as hard as ice, and proportionately difficult to cross. The consequence +was, that in passing a steep incline with the guide, he slipped, and I followed his +example, and down we both <span class="pageNum" id="pb69">[<a href="#pb69">69</a>]</span>went like an engine and tender, the guide fishing about with his legs for obstacles, +and I above him, endeavouring to use my pole as an anchor to bring us to. +</p> +<p>Luckily, we both reached <i>terra firma</i> safely, after a perilous run, though at the same side we started from, and a long +distance from our point of previous departure. On at length reaching the opposite +side, we found a disconsolate coolie bemoaning himself and reckoning his bones, having +also fallen down the snow, while a little further on we came upon the bhistie lamenting +over a similar disaster. The latter functionary had also lost a valuable pot of virgin +honey, which had only come up from Poshana the day before, and which we had not had +time to see the inside of even, ere it was thus lost to us for ever, and made over +as a poetical reparation to the bears of the country for the ruthless murder we had +committed on one of their number. Found the hut at Poshana empty, and were glad to +get into its shelter again. The rain seeming quite set in, we determined to discharge +our shikàrees, and after paying them three rupees each for their week’s work, we sent +them away perfectly happy, with a few copper caps and a good character apiece. +</p> +<p><i>June 27.</i>—Left Poshana at five <span class="asc">A.M.</span>, and <span class="pageNum" id="pb70">[<a href="#pb70">70</a>]</span>made for the Peer Punjal pass. A sharp struggle brought us to the summit, where we +found a polygon tower erected, apparently as a landmark and also a resting-place for +travellers to recover themselves after their exertions.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e1394src" href="#xd30e1394">2</a> At the Cashmere side of the pass I had expected to see something of the far-famed +valley, but nothing met the eye but a wild waste of land, bounded on all sides by +snow, while a few straggling coolies toiled up towards us with some itinerant Englishman’s +baggage like our own. +</p> +<p>This turned out to belong to a party returning to Sealkote, and we were rather elated +by seeing among their possessions several enormous antlers, which promised well for +sport at the other side of the valley. They turned out, however, to have been bought, +and, as their owners informed us, there was no chance of meeting such game until October +or November. About two miles down the pass we reached the old serai of Aliabad, and +found the only habitable part of it in possession of a clergyman and a young Bengal +artilleryman bound for the shooting-grounds we had just left. With much difficulty +we obtained a few eggs, and a little milk with which we washed down the chupatties +we had <span class="pageNum" id="pb71">[<a href="#pb71">71</a>]</span>brought with us; but the coolies were so long getting over the path, that no signs +of breakfast made their appearance until about two o’clock. At mid-day it came on +to rain heavily, and we took up our quarters in a miserable den, with a flooring of +damp rubbish and a finely carved stone window not very much in keeping with the rest +of the establishment. Here we spent the day drearily enough, the prospect being confined +to a green pool of water in the middle of the serai, around which the Pariah dogs +contended with the crows for the dainties of offal scattered about. As soon as it +was dark, we were glad enough to spread our waterproof sheets on the ground, and sleep +as well as the thousands of tenants already in possession would allow us. +</p> +<p><i>June 28.</i>—Up at sunrise, and packed off our things down the mountain for Heerpore, where the +main body of our possessions were concentrated. +</p> +<p>Shortly after their departure it began to rain an Irish and Scotch combined mist, +and after warming our toes and blinding our eyes over a wood fire for about three +hours, in hopes of its clearing, we donned grass-shoes and, putting our best legs +foremost, accomplished about thirteen miles of a most slippery path without a halt, +<span class="pageNum" id="pb72">[<a href="#pb72">72</a>]</span>except for the occasional purpose of adjusting our dilapidated shoes. +</p> +<p>After the first five or six miles the path entered a beautifully-wooded valley, and +at one spot, where two torrents joined their foaming waters at the foot of a picturesque +old ivy-grown serai, the landscape was almost perfection. Passing this, we entered +a thickly-shaded wood, studded with roses and jessamine, and peopled with wood-pigeons +and nightingales, who favoured us with a morning concert as we passed. Crossing a +wooden bridge over the torrent, we reached a fine grass country, and here the presence +of a herd of cows told us we were near our destination. At Heerpore we found Mr. Rajoo +located with all our belongings in a little wooden sort of squatter’s cabin, where +we were glad to take shelter out of the dripping rain. It reminded one strongly of +Captain Cuttle’s habitation and a ship’s cabin together, and made one feel inclined +to go on deck occasionally. It was on the whole, however, very comfortable, and seemed, +after our late indifferent quarters, to be a perfect palace. After breakfast, we made +inquiries as to our worldly affairs, and found that all were thriving with the exception +of the potatoes, which had been taken worse on the road, and were already decimated +<span class="pageNum" id="pb73">[<a href="#pb73">73</a>]</span>by sickness. We added a sheep to our stock, for which we paid three shillings, and +laid in a welcome supply of butter. The khidmutgar and bhistie, we found, had retailed +the history of their many sorrows to the other servants, and, having expatiated most +fully on the horrors they had endured among the snows and thunderstorms of the mountains, +were promising themselves a speedy end to all their woes among the peace and plenty +of the promised land of Cashmere. +</p> +<p><i>June 29.</i>—After some trouble in procuring coolies, we started at eleven in a shower of rain, +and found ourselves gradually passing into the valley, and exchanging rocks and firs +for groves of walnut; and moss and fern for the more civilized strawberry and the +wild carnation. The strawberries, though small, had a delicious flavour, and we whiled +away the time by gathering them as we passed. About two o’clock we reached the village +of Shupayon, and here began to perceive a considerable change in the style of architecture +from what we had been accustomed to; the flat mudden roof giving place to the sharply-pitched +wooden one, thatched with straw, or coarsely <i>tiled</i> with wood. +</p> +<p>Our halting-place we found, for the first time, to possess a staircase and upper story. +A little <span class="pageNum" id="pb74">[<a href="#pb74">74</a>]</span>square habitation it was, with a verandah all round it, and built entirely of wood. +From this, as the clouds lifted from the mountain-tops around, a most lovely view +opened out before us. +</p> +<div class="figure p074width" id="p074"><img src="images/p074.jpg" alt="A Halting-place in Cashmere." width="493" height="315" /></div><p> +</p> +<p>Wherever the eye rested toward the mountains, the snow-capped peaks raised themselves +up into the clear blue sky; while at our feet lay the far-famed valley, reaching towards +the north, to the very base of the mountain range, and rising gradually and by a gentle +slope to our halting-place, and so back to the pass from which we had just descended. +</p> +<p>As the sun appeared to have come out again permanently, we took the opportunity of +getting our tents and other property which had suffered from the wet out for a general +airing. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb75">[<a href="#pb75">75</a>]</span></p> +<p><i>June 30.</i>—Marched about nine miles through fertile slopes of rice-fields, shaded by walnuts +and sycamores, and found our halting-place situated in a serai, shrouded in mulberry +and cherry trees, and with a charming little rivulet running through it, discoursing +sweet music night and day. Our habitation was a baraduree, or summer-house, of wood, +and having an upper room with trellised windows, where we spent the day very pleasantly. +At dinner we had the first instalment of the land of promise, in the shape of a roly-poly +pudding of fresh cherries, a thing to date from in our hitherto puddingless circumstances. +</p> +<p><i>July 1.</i>—Started at daybreak for our last march into the capital. The first appearance of +the low part of the valley was rather disappointing, for there was nothing striking +in the view; still, the country was extremely fertile, and its tameness was redeemed +by the glorious mountain range, which bounded the valley in every direction, with +its pure unsullied fringe of snow. Our path was occasionally studded with the most +superb sycamores and lime-trees; and as we approached the town we entered a long avenue +of poplars, planted as closely together as possible, and completely hiding all the +buildings until close upon them. Passing through the <span class="pageNum" id="pb76">[<a href="#pb76">76</a>]</span>grand parade-ground, we found a bustling throng of about four hundred Cashmeeries, +with heavy packs beside them, waiting for an escort to take out supplies to the Maharajah’s +army, now on active service at a place called Girgit, in the mountains. The said army +seemed to be fighting with nobody knew who, about nobody knew what; but report says +that his Highness, having a number of troops wanting arrears of pay, sends them out +periodically to contend with the hill tribes, by way of settlement in full of all +demands. +</p> +<p>Having engaged a boat’s crew at Ramoon, we were, on arriving at the River Jhelum, +which runs through the city, immediately inducted to the manners and customs of the +place; and being safely deposited in a long flat-bottomed boat, with a mat roof and +a prow about twelve feet out of the water, we were paddled across by our six new servants, +and landed among a number of bungalows on the right bank, which were erected by the +Maharajah for the reception of his English visitors. These are entirely of wood, of +the rudest construction, and are built along the very edge of the river, which is +here about a hundred yards broad. +</p> +<p>We were received on landing by the Baboo and Moonshee, the native authorities retained +by the <span class="pageNum" id="pb77">[<a href="#pb77">77</a>]</span>Maharajah for the convenience of his visitors; and learning from them that there were +no bungalows vacant, we pitched our little camp under a shady grove of trees close +by; and thus, in the capital of the land of poetry and promise, the far-famed paradise +of the Hindoo, we brought our wanderings to an end for the present, and gave ourselves +and our retainers a rest from all the toils and troubles of the road. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb78">[<a href="#pb78">78</a>]</span></p> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep" /> +<div id="xd30e1349"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e1349src">1</a></span> M. Jacquemont, in his “Letters from Kashmir and Thibet,” carried away no doubt by +the ardour of Botanical research, mentions having made a similar discovery, in the +following glowing terms:—“The mountains here produce rhubarb; celestial happiness!” <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e1349src" title="Return to note 1 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e1394"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e1394src">2</a></span> The Pass of the Peer Punjal is 13,000 feet above the level of the sea; the highest +peak of the range being 15,000. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e1394src" title="Return to note 2 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div id="pt3" class="div0 part"> +<h2 class="label">Part III.</h2> +<h2 class="main">A Halt in the Valley.</h2> +<p class="first">Being fairly settled in our quarters, we were not long in putting our new staff of +dependants into requisition; and, taking to our boat, sallied forth to get a general +view of the city of Sirinugger.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e1449src" href="#xd30e1449">1</a> Finding, however, a review of the army going on, we stopped at the parade-ground +to witness the interesting ceremony. The troops we found drawn up in lines, forming +the sides of a large square, and dressed in what his Highness Rumbeer Singh believes +confidently to be the <i>English costume.</i> As far as one could see, however, the sole foundation for this belief lay in the +fact of their <span class="pageNum" id="pb79">[<a href="#pb79">79</a>]</span>all wearing trousers! These were certainly the only articles of their equipment that +could in any way be called English in style; and they bore, after all, but a slender +resemblance to the corresponding habiliments of the true Briton. +</p> +<p>The head-dress, generally speaking, was a turban. One regiment, however, had actually +perpetrated a parody on the English shako—a feat which I had always hitherto considered +absolutely impossible. +</p> +<p>The cavalry were mounted upon tattoos, or native ponies, and wore white trousers, +with tight straps, which rendered them for the time being the most miserable of their +race. +</p> +<p>A few of them had imitations of Lancer caps, some had boots, some slippers, some spurs, +others none; some had wondrous straps of tape and cord, others wore their trousers +up to their knees; but one and all were entirely uniform in looking completely ill +at ease and out of their element in their borrowed would-be-English plumage. Just +as we had finished taking a general view of the army, the Maharajah appeared upon +the stage, dressed in a green-and-gold embroidered gown and turban and tight silk +pantaloons, mounted on a grey caparisoned Arab steed. After riding round the lines +with his retinue, he came up, and we were presented in due form; and after asking +<span class="pageNum" id="pb80">[<a href="#pb80">80</a>]</span>us if we had come from Allahabad, and expressing his opinion that it was a long way +off, in which we entirely concurred with him, he shook hands in English style; and, +taking his seat in a chair which was placed for him, we collected ourselves around, +and, similarly seated, prepared to inspect the marching past of his highness’s redoubtables. +Before this began, however, the Maharajah’s little son made his appearance, dressed +in all respects like his papa, with miniature sword and embroidered raiment; and to +him we were also introduced in form. During the marching past, I congratulated myself +upon being several seats distant from his highness’s chair, for the effect was so +absurd that it was almost impossible to preserve that dignity and composure which +the occasion demanded. +</p> +<p>The marching was in slow time, and the step being fully thirty-six inches the fat +little dumpy officers nearly upset themselves in their efforts to keep time, and at +the same time prevent their slippers from deserting on the line of march; while, in +bringing their swords to the salute, they did it with a swing which was suggestive +of their throwing away their arms altogether. Besides artillery, five regiments of +infantry and two of cavalry marched past—in all, little over 2,000 men—colours flying +and bands playing <span class="pageNum" id="pb81">[<a href="#pb81">81</a>]</span>“Home, sweet home!” After this the irregulars began to appear; and although the first +part of the army might have almost deserved the name, these put them completely in +the shade. One colonel had a pair of enormous English gold epaulettes and a turban; +another a black embroidered suit, with white tape straps, and slippers; and as for +the men, there were no two of them dressed alike, while in the way of arms, each pleased +his own particular fancy also. A long gun over the shoulder was the most popular weapon; +but each had, in addition, a perfect armoury fastened in his girdle: pistols with +stocks like guns, daggers and even blunderbusses made their appearance; and the general +effect, as the crowd galloped independently past, dressed in their many-coloured turbans, +and flowing apparel, was most picturesque. As soon as the last of the flags and banners +and prancing horses had gone past, the Maharajah set us the example of rising, and +mounting his grey steed, cantered off in state, surrounded by the crowd of dusky parasites, +arrayed in gold and jewels, who formed his court. +</p> +<p>His Highness appeared to be about thirty-eight years old, and was as handsome a specimen +of a native as I had ever seen. He wore a short, jet-black beard, and mustachios, +<span class="pageNum" id="pb82">[<a href="#pb82">82</a>]</span>turned up from the corners of his mouth, and reaching, in two long twists, nearly +to his eyes. He appeared absent and thoughtful which, considering the low state of +his exchequer, was perhaps not to be wondered at.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e1470src" href="#xd30e1470">2</a> His English visitors spend a good deal of money every summer in his kingdom; and +for this reason alone, he is anxious enough to cultivate their acquaintance, and gives +naches, or native dances, and <span class="corr" id="xd30e1478" title="Source: champaigne">champagne</span> dinners periodically to amuse them. He presents, also, an offering to each traveller +that arrives, and we in due course received two sheep, two fowls, and about fourteen +little earthen dishes containing rice, butter, spices, eggs, flour, fruit, honey, +sugar, tea, &c., all of which were laid at the door of our tent, with great pomp and +ceremony, by a host of attendants. +</p> +<p>After the review, we took boat again and <span class="pageNum" id="pb83">[<a href="#pb83">83</a>]</span>paddled down the stream to look at the town, and a quainter and more picturesque-looking +old place it would be hard to conceive. The houses are built entirely of wood, of +five and six stories, and overhanging the river, and are as close as possible to each +other, except where here and there interspersed with trees. Communication is kept +up between the banks by means of wooden rustic bridges, built on enormous piles of +timber, laid in entire trees, crossing each other at equal distances. Not a single +straight line is to be seen in any direction—the houses being dilapidated and generally +out of the perpendicular; and everywhere the river view is bounded by the snow-capped +ranges of mountain, which, towards the north, appear to rise almost from the very +water’s edge. +</p> +<p><i>July 2.</i>—Taking the <abbr title="Quartermaster General">Q.M.G.</abbr> as a guide, we sallied out immediately after breakfast to explore the land part of +this Eastern Venice. Entering at the city gate, on the left bank of the river, near +the Maharajah’s palace, we walked past a row of trumpery pop-guns, on green and red +carriages, and so through the most filthy and odoriferous bazaar I ever met with, +till we reached the residence of Saifula Baba, the great shawl merchant of Sirinugger. +Here we found a noted shawl fancier inspecting the stock, and were <span class="pageNum" id="pb84">[<a href="#pb84">84</a>]</span>inducted to the mysteries of the different fabrics. Some that we saw were of beautiful +workmanship, but dangerous to an uninitiated purchaser. They ranged from 300 to 1,000 +rupees generally, but could be ordered to an almost unlimited extent of price. After +inspecting a quantity of Pushmeena and other local manufactures, Mr. Saifula Baba +handed us tea and sweetmeats, after the fashion of his country; and we adjourned to +the abode of a worker in papier maché, where we underwent a second edition of tea +and sweetmeats, and inspected a number of curiosities. The chief and only beauty of +the work was in the strangeness of the design; and some of the shawl patterns, reproduced +on boxes, &c., were pretty in their way, but as manufacturers of papier maché simply, +the Cashmeeries were a long way behind the age. +</p> +<p>On reaching home, we found that the Maharajah had sent his salaam, together with the +information that he was going to give a nach and dinner, to which we were invited. +</p> +<div class="figure p084width" id="p084"><img src="images/p084.jpg" alt="View in Sirinugger." width="720" height="448" /><div class="figAnnotation p084width"><span class="figBottomLeft">W.H.K. Delt.</span><span class="figTop"> </span><span class="figBottomRight">Hanhart, Lith.</span></div> +<p class="figureHead">View in Sirinugger.</p> +</div><p> +</p> +<p><i>July 3.</i>—After continuing our explorations of Sirinugger, we repaired, about seven o’clock, +to the Maharajah’s palace, where we were received by a guard of honour of sixty men +and four officers, the latter in gold embroidered dresses, <span class="pageNum" id="pb85">[<a href="#pb85">85</a>]</span>and hung all over with ear-rings and finery of divers sorts and kinds. +</p> +<p>Ascending the stairs, we were met by the <i>Deewan,</i> or prime minister, who conducted us into an open sort of terrace over the river, +where we found the Maharajah with the few English officers already arrived seated +on either side of him, and the nach-girls, about twenty in number, squatted in a semicircle +opposite them. Standing behind his Highness were colonels of regiments and native +dignitaries of all sorts, dressed in cloth of gold and jewels, and in every variety +and hue of turban and appointments. A number of these were Sikhs; and magnificent-looking +men they were, with their flowing dress and fiercely-twisted whiskers and mustachios. +The nach-girls, too—a motley group—were attired in all the hues of the rainbow, and +with the white-robed musicians behind them, awaited in patience the signal to commence. +In singular contrast to this glittering throng, which formed the court, were the guests +whom the Maharajah, on this occasion, delighted to honour. The British officer appeared +generally in the national but uncourtly costume of a shooting jacket! and though some +few had donned their uniform, and one rejoiced in the traditional swallow-tail of +unmistakeable civilization, neither <span class="pageNum" id="pb86">[<a href="#pb86">86</a>]</span>the one nor the other contrasted favourably in point of grace with the Cashmerian +rank and fashion. +</p> +<p>After shaking hands with his Highness, who prides himself upon his English way of +accomplishing that ceremony, and does it by slipping into one’s hand what might be +taken for a dying flat fish, we took our seats, and the dancing began shortly afterwards. +Though on a more magnificent scale than anything I had seen of the kind before, the +programme was flat and insipid enough. The ladies came out two and two, and went through +a monotonous die-away movement, acting, dancing, and singing all at the same time, +and showing off their red-stained palms and the soles of their feet to the best advantage. +Some of the women were very pretty, but very properly they modified their charms by +dressing in the most unbecoming manner possible. Their head-dress was a little cloth +of gold and silver cap hung all round with pendent ornaments, and these were becoming +enough, but the remainder of the dress was much more trying. A short body of shot +silk was separated by a natural border from a gauze skirt, which hung down perfectly +straight and innocent of fulness, and allowed a pair of white pyjamas to appear beneath. +These were fastened <span class="pageNum" id="pb87">[<a href="#pb87">87</a>]</span>tightly round the ancles, which were encircled by little bunches of the tinkling bells, +which the ladies make such use of in the dance. Round the shoulders comes a filmy +scarf of various colours, which also plays a prominent part in all their movements, +and answers in its way to the fan of more accomplished Western belles. +</p> +<p>After each couple had gone through the whole of their performances, they used to squat +themselves down suddenly in the most ungraceful style imaginable, and were then relieved +by another pair of artistes from the group. +</p> +<p>One lady, in addition to the dance, favoured us with “the Marseillaise” with the French +words, being occasionally prompted by the head of the orchestra, who nearly worked +himself into a frenzy while accompanying the dancers with both vocal and instrumental +music at the same time. The Maharajah himself was plainly dressed in white robes, +with a pair of pale-green striped silk pantaloons fitting his legs like stockings +from the knee down, and terminating in a pair of English socks, of which he seemed +immensely proud. His turban was of the palest shade of green, and (in strong contrast +to the rest of his court) without any ornament whatever. The little heir to the throne—a +nice little blackamoor of about eight years of age—was, <span class="pageNum" id="pb88">[<a href="#pb88">88</a>]</span>like his father, perched upon a chair, and arrayed in a green and gold turban, pants, +and socks, with the addition of a velvet gold-embroidered coat, while round his neck +were three or four valuable necklaces, one of pear-shaped emeralds of great size and +beauty. After a few dances the doors of the banqueting-room were thrown open, and +his Highness led the way into dinner with the commissioner. On entering, we found +a capital dinner laid out English fashion, and with a formidable army of black bottles +ranged along the table. The Maharajah, however, had disappeared, and we were left +to feed without a host. The grandees, meanwhile, remained outside, and still enjoyed +the dances, ranging themselves upon their haunches in front of the rows of chairs +which not one among them would have dared to trust himself in for either love or money. +Considering that our entertainer was a Hindoo, and that his dinner-giving appliances +were limited, each person having to bring his own knife, fork, spoon, and chair, we +fared very well, and after having drunk his health, again assembled in the court, +where we found Rumbeer Singh still occupied with the wearisome nach, and reattired +in a gorgeous dress of green velvet and gold. After a short stay he got up, and we +all followed his example, glad enough <span class="pageNum" id="pb89">[<a href="#pb89">89</a>]</span>to bring the entertainment to an end, and betake ourselves to our boats. At the stairs +there was a desperate encounter with innumerable boatmen, each boat having six, eight, +or ten sailors, and all being equally anxious to uphold the credit of their craft +by being the first to land their masters safe, at home. We were fortunate enough to +reach our own at once, and, with a shouting crew, away we dashed up the river, leaving +the others struggling, fighting, and flourishing their paddles in the air, in a way +which was more suggestive of an insurrection scene in Masaniello than the departure +of guests from a peaceable gentleman’s own hall door on the night of an evening party. +</p> +<p>On the stairs there was an extraordinary assemblage of slippers, which seemed to hold +the same relative position that hats and cloaks do in more enlightened communities—that +is, the good ones were taken by the owners of the bad, and the proprietors of the +bad ones were fain to make the best of the exchange. Next morning our khidmutgar came +up with a most doleful countenance and presented to our notice a pair of certainly +most ill-favoured slippers, which a fellow true-believer had <i>inadvertently</i> substituted for a pair of later date. The lost ones had, in fact, only recently been +received from the boot-maker; <span class="pageNum" id="pb90">[<a href="#pb90">90</a>]</span>and the blow was difficult to bear with resignation, even by the saintliest follower +of Islam—a reputation which our retainer came short of by a very long way indeed. +</p> +<p><i>July 4.</i>—Having an accumulation of letters to answer, we devoted the day to writing—merely +enjoying a little <i>otium cum dig.</i>—in the evening, reclining in our boat while serenaded by the crew of boatmen. +</p> +<p><i>July 5.</i>—Walked up, before daybreak, to the Tukht e Sûleeman, or Solomon’s throne, “the mountainous +Portal,” which Moore speaks of in <i>Lalla Rookh,</i> and which forms the most striking landmark in the valley.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e1540src" href="#xd30e1540">3</a> +</p> +<div class="figure p090width" id="p090"><img src="images/p090.jpg" alt="Solomon’s Throne." width="476" height="720" /><p class="figureHead">Solomon’s Throne<span class="corr" id="xd30e1554" title="Not in source">.</span></p> +</div><p> +</p> +<p>From the summit there was a curious view of the multitudinous wooden houses and the +sinuous windings of the river, which could alone be obtained from such a bird’s-eye +point of inspection. An old temple at the top was in the hands of the Hindoo faction, +being dedicated to the goddess Mahadewee, and in charge of it I found two of the dirtiest +fukeers, or religious mendicants, <span class="pageNum" id="pb91">[<a href="#pb91">91</a>]</span>I ever had the pleasure of meeting. One was lying asleep, with his feet in a heap +of dust and ashes, and the other was listlessly sitting, without moving a muscle, +warming himself in the morning sun. Both were almost naked, and had their bodies and +faces smeared with ashes and their hair long and matted. They appeared to have arrived +at a state of almost entire abstraction, and neither of them even raised his eyes +or seemed to be in the slightest degree aware of my presence, although I took a sketch +of one of them, and stared at both, very much as I would have done at some new arrival +of animals in the Zoological Gardens. +</p> +<p>In the evening we went again to Saifula Baba’s and visited the workrooms, where we +were much astonished by the quickness with which the people worked the intricate shawl +patterns with a simple needle, and no copy to guide them. +</p> +<p>The first stages of the work are not very promising, but the finished result, when +pressed and rolled and duly exhibited by that true believer Saifula Baba, in his snowy +gown and turban, was certainly in every way worthy of its reputation. +</p> +<p>Returning home, we visited a garden where any of the English visitors who die in the +valley are buried—the Maharajah presenting a Cashmere shawl, in some instances, to +wrap the body <span class="pageNum" id="pb92">[<a href="#pb92">92</a>]</span>in. There were about eight or ten monuments built of plaster, with small square slabs +for inscriptions. One of these was turned topsy-turvey, which was not to be wondered +at, for a native almost always holds English characters upside-down when either trying +to decipher them himself or when holding them to be read by others. +</p> +<div class="figure p092width" id="p092"><img src="images/p092.jpg" alt="Hurree Purbut." width="720" height="425" /><p class="figureHead">Hurree Purbut.</p> +</div><p> +</p> +<p><i>July 6.</i>—In the early morning I ascended to the throne of Solomon, in order to get a sketch +of the Fort of Hurree Purbut, and in the afternoon we repaired to the lake behind +the town, where there was a grand Mela or fair, on the water, to which the Maharajah +and all his court went in state. The lake is beautifully situated at the foot of the +mountains, and was covered so densely in many parts with weed and water-plants that +it bore quite the appearance of a floating garden; and as the innumerable boats paddled +about, with their bright and sunny cargoes, talking and laughing and enjoying themselves +to their heart’s content, the scene began to identify itself in some measure with +Moore’s description of the “Sunny lake of cool Cashmere,” and its “Plane-tree isle +reflected clear,” although the poet’s eyes had never rested on either lake or isle. +Putting poetry on one side, however, for the present, we made our way to the extremity +of the lake, in order to pay a <span class="pageNum" id="pb93">[<a href="#pb93">93</a>]</span>visit to his Highness’s gaol, where we were received by a very civil gaoler, equipped +with a massive sword and dilapidated shield. We found 110 prisoners in the place, +employed generally in converting dhan into chawul, or, in other words, clearing the +rice-crop. There was also a mill for mustard oil, and the most primitive machine for +boring fire-arms ever invented, both worked by water-power. The prison dress was uniform +in the extreme: it consisted simply of a suit of heavy leg-irons and nothing more! +</p> +<p>After seeing the fair, we paddled across through a perfect water-meadow to the Shalimar +gardens, where we found the Rajah and his suite just taking their departure. The vista +on entering the gardens was extremely pretty: four waterfalls appear at the same moment, +sending a clear sheet of crystal water over a broad stone slab, and gradually receding +from sight in the wooded distance. A broad canal runs right through the gardens, bridged +at intervals by summer-houses and crossed by carved and quaintly-fashioned stepping +stones. At the extremity there is a magnificent baradurree of black marble, which +looks as if it had been many centuries in existence, and had originally figured in +some very different situation. The pillars were entire to a length of seven feet, +and <span class="pageNum" id="pb94">[<a href="#pb94">94</a>]</span>were highly polished from the people leaning against them. Around this, in reservoirs +of water, were about two hundred fountains, all spouting away together, and on one +side a sheet of the most perfectly still water I ever saw. It appeared exactly like +a large looking-glass, and it was impossible to discern where the artificial bank +which inclosed it either began or terminated. +</p> +<p>In these gardens it was that Selim, or Jehangeer the son of Akbar, used to spend so +many of his days with the far-famed Noor Jehan in the beginning of the seventeenth +century, and here was the scene of their reconciliation, as related by Feramorz to +Lalla Rookh ere he revealed himself to her as her future lord, the king of Bucharia. +From these founts and streams it was that the fair Persian sought to entice her lord, +with “Fly to the desert, fly with me!” +</p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“When breathing, as she did, a tone +</p> +<p class="line">To earthly lutes and lips unknown; +</p> +<p class="line">With every chord fresh from the touch +</p> +<p class="line">Of Music’s spirit,—<span class="corr" id="xd30e1586" title="Source: t’was">’twas</span> too much!”</p> +</div> +<p class="first">“The light of the universe” overcomes even the “conqueror of the world.” Thinking +it, after all, wiser to kiss and be friends than be sulky, he surrenders at discretion:— +<span class="pageNum" id="pb95">[<a href="#pb95">95</a>]</span></p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“And, happier now for all their sighs, +</p> +<p class="line">As on his arm her head reposes, +</p> +<p class="line">She whispers him with laughing eyes, +</p> +<p class="line">‘Remember, love, the Feast of Roses!’ ”</p> +</div> +<p class="first">Leaving the favourite haunts of the “magnificent son of Akbar,” we crossed the lake +again to see the Maharajah inspect a party of about 2,000 soldiers, who were departing +for the war at Girgit. Nothing in the way of supplies being procurable near the scene +of action, the greater part of the review was taken up by the marching past of a horde +of Cashmeree and mountain porters, heavily laden with the sinews of war. According +to report, the pay of the army here is about five shillings per mensem, with a ration +of two pounds of rice per diem. +</p> +<p>In the evening, the number of boats congregated on the lake was marvellous. All were +perfectly crammed with Cashmerian pleasure-seekers; but the turbaned faithful, in +spite of the pressure, in no way lost their dignity, but with pipes and coffee enjoyed +themselves in apparently entire unconsciousness of there being a soul on the lake +beside themselves. The most wonderful sight, however, was the immense crowd of many-coloured +turbans congregated on shore, witnessing the departure of the Cashmerian Guards; and +as they thronged the green <span class="pageNum" id="pb96">[<a href="#pb96">96</a>]</span>slopes in thousands, they gave one quite the idea of a mass of very violent-coloured +flowers blooming together in a garden. On our way home we had great jostling, and +even fighting, in order to maintain our position among the crowds of boats, the result +of which was that our crew managed to break two paddles in upholding the dignity and +respectability of their masters. The Maharajah himself, however, gave us the go-by +in great style, in a long quaint boat, propelled by thirty-six boatmen, and built +with a broad seat towards the bows, in shape like the overgrown body of a gig in indifferent +circumstances, on which his Highness reclined. By his side was the little prince, +in glorious apparel, while half a dozen of his court, arrayed in spotless white, appeared +like so many snow-drifts lying at his feet. +</p> +<p><i>July 7.</i>—Made our arrangements to-day for a trip by water to the Wûler Lake, and spent the +afternoon in inspecting the jeweller’s and other shops in the city. The native workmen +appear to engrave cleverly both on stone and metal, and some of their performances +would bear comparison with any European workmanship of a similar kind. They also work +in filagree silver, charging about sixpence in every two shillings’ worth of silver +for their labour. <span class="pageNum" id="pb97">[<a href="#pb97">97</a>]</span>About nine <span class="asc">P.M.</span> we took to our boats; F. and I occupying one together, in which we stowed bedding, +dressing-things, &c. while the cooking apparatus and servants occupied the other. +Passed the night very comfortably, and found the situation most conducive to sleep, +as we glided gently along with the stream. +</p> +<p><i>July 8.</i>—Awoke to find an innumerable swarm of mosquitoes buzzing about our habitation, and +apparently endeavouring to carry it off bodily. Letting down, however, the muslin +curtains, which the foreknowledge of the faithful <abbr title="Quartermaster General">Q.M.G.</abbr> had provided us with, we succeeded in puzzling the enemy for the time being. About +eight o’clock, the fleet came to an anchor at a luxuriant little island at the entrance +of the great lake; to all appearance, however, it might have been situated in a meadow, +for we had to force our way to it through a perfect plain of green water-plants, whose +slimy verdure covered the face of the lake for miles around. It was wooded by mulberry +trees, very prettily entwined with wild vines, and in the midst were the remains of +an old Musjid, in which we discovered a slab of black marble, covered with a beautifully +carved inscription in Arabic, and appearing as if it had not always held the ignoble +position which it now occupied. Scattered <span class="pageNum" id="pb98">[<a href="#pb98">98</a>]</span>about the island, also, were many scraps of columns and carved stones, which gave +evidence of having belonged to some ancient temple or palace. While thus surveying +our island, we were pestered to death by swarms of prodigious mosquitoes, for which +the Wûler Lake is justly celebrated, and during breakfast the eating was quite as +much on their side as ours; so that we were glad to weigh anchor, and with our curtains +tightly tucked in around us, we floated away, in lazy enjoyment of climate and scenery, +towards the centre of the lake. As we cleared the margin of the water-plants, we found +ourselves on a glassy surface, extending away towards the west as far as the eye could +see, and bordered on all sides by gorgeous mountains and ranges of snow. Around the +edges of the lake a sunny mirage was playing tricks with the cattle and the objects +on the banks, and as we glided lazily on with the stream, and the splashing paddles, +and even the foiled mosquitoes, made music about us, we began to enter more into the +spirit of our situation, and to appreciate the peculiar beauties of the “sunny lake +of cool Cashmere,” with the <i>dolce far niente</i> existence which of right belongs to it. About one o’clock we reached Sompoor, at +the Baramoula extremity of the lake, and as it <span class="pageNum" id="pb99">[<a href="#pb99">99</a>]</span>came on to blow a little, it was not too soon: our boats were totally unadapted for +anything rougher than a mill-pond, and in the ripple excited by the small puffs of +wind, I had the misfortune to ship what was, under the circumstances, a heavy sea, +and so sacrificed the prospects of a dry lodging for the night. Sompoor we found a +picturesque but dirty village, with promise of good fishing, in the river below it. +We unfortunately had no tackle, but the boatmen succeeded in catching five or six +good fish with a hook baited with a mulberry only: a very favourite article of consumption, +apparently, among the Cashmerian little fishes. +</p> +<p>Dropping down the river, we dined on the bank among the mulberry trees, and I afterwards +essayed to take a sketch of the village; such a firm and determined body of mosquitoes, +however, immediately fell upon me, that, after a short but unsuccessful combat, I +was fairly put to flight, and Sompoor remained undrawn. We passed the night above +the town, ready for an early start in the morning. +</p> +<p><i>July 9.</i>—Left our moorings before sunrise, and halted about eight <span class="asc">A.M.</span> at a little island stacked with elephant-grass, where, after as good a swim as the +tangled weeds would permit, we breakfasted pleasantly under the trees. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb100">[<a href="#pb100">100</a>]</span></p> +<p>From this point we adopted a new mode of progression, the boatmen towing us from the +bank; and the motion was a great improvement on the paddling system, except that it +had a tendency to set one to sleep altogether. Reached Sirinugger, and our camp again, +at four <span class="asc">P.M.</span> +</p> +<p><i>July 10.</i>—Paid Saifula Baba, the shawl merchant, a visit to-day, in order to get a bill of +exchange on Umritsur cashed. Found him just going out to Mosque, in his snow-white +robe and turban, cleanly-shaved pate, and golden slippers. Not having any money, he +promised us a hundred rupees of the Maharajah’s coinage to go on with. These nominal +rupees are each value 10 annas, or 1<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.,</i> the most chipped and mutilated objects imaginable. On one face of the coin are the +letters <abbr title="XX">I.H.S.</abbr> stamped, a strange enough device for a heathen or any other mint to have adopted. +While floating about the Eastern Venice, we discovered a number of finely-cut old +blocks of stone in the built-up wall which bounded the river; and on inspecting the +place, we came upon an ancient Mussulman cemetery and ruined Musjid, in which there +were some very antique-looking carvings, which apparently had commenced life elsewhere +than on Mussulman ground. The graveyard, however, was itself extremely old, although +many of the <span class="pageNum" id="pb101">[<a href="#pb101">101</a>]</span>turbaned and lettered tombstones of the faithful were in perfect preservation. All +began with the “La Ulah ila Ullah,” or “B’ism Ullah,”<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e1646src" href="#xd30e1646">4</a> with which everything connected with a Mussulman does commence, either in life or +death. +</p> +<p>All through the city one can trace the remains of some much more ancient structure +in the huge blocks of carved stone which are scattered about among their more plebeian +brethren, and serve to form with them, in humble forgetfulness of past grandeur, the +foundations of the lofty rattletrap but picturesque wooden structures which line both +sides of the river and form the city of Cashmere in the year of grace 1860. +</p> +<p>Some of these houses, as one looks into the narrow lanes leading to the river and +sees them in profile, are apparently in the last stage of dissolution, leaning out +of the perpendicular and overtopping their lower stories and foundations in a way +that would put even the leaning tower of Pisa to shame. One six-storied house, of +long experience in this crooked world, had made the most wonderful efforts to redeem +his character and to recover his equilibrium by leaning the contrary way aloft from +what he did below. Poor fellow! he had been but badly conducted in his youth, and +was nobly endeavouring to <span class="pageNum" id="pb102">[<a href="#pb102">102</a>]</span>correct his ways in a mossy and dilapidated old age. The tracery of much of the wood-work +carvings, and particularly of the windows, varies greatly, and in some places is so +minute that it requires close inspection to find out the design. <span class="pageNum" id="pb103">[<a href="#pb103">103</a>]</span>Of these the Zenana windows of the Maharajah’s palace are about the finest specimens; +but as there is no way of approaching them closely, it is impossible to make out their +details. +</p> +<div class="figure p102width" id="p102"><img src="images/p102.jpg" alt="Latticed Window, Sirinugger." width="439" height="685" /></div><p> +</p> +<p><i>July 11.</i>—Started this evening by water for Islamabad, the ancient capital of Cashmere. +</p> +<p>We made a slight change in our arrangements, rather for the better, by hiring a large +boat for ourselves and handing our own over to the servants and culinary department +in general. +</p> +<p><i>July 12.</i>—Found ourselves not very far on our road on awakening this morning, the night having +been very dark, the current strong against us, and the sailors lazy. +</p> +<p>Another cause of delay also, if these were insufficient, was, that the proprietor +of the boat dropped his turban overboard, with two rupees in the folds of it, and +the old lady his spouse had stopped the fleet for at least an hour to cry over the +misfortune. Before breakfast we had a swim, and found ourselves only just able to +make way against the stream. Breakfasted on the river bank, under the trees, and surrounded +by rocky snow-capped mountains. Reading, scribbling, and eating apricots brought us +to about an hour before sunset, when F. and I landed and went ahead to pick out a +spot for a dining-room for ourselves. In the search, we passed through <span class="pageNum" id="pb104">[<a href="#pb104">104</a>]</span>orchards and gardens innumerable, and finally decided upon a grove of magnificent +sycamores on the river bank, where we laid out our table just as the sun went down. +Within view was a picturesque old wooden bridge, on the mossy tree-formed piles of +which the bushes were growing, as if quite at home, and hanging gracefully over the +flowing river. +</p> +<div class="figure p104width" id="p104"><img src="images/p104.jpg" alt="Sacred Tank, Islamabad." width="493" height="335" /></div><p> +</p> +<p><i>July 13.</i>—Found ourselves at sunrise at the end of our boat journey, bathed in the river, and +started for Islamabad, about half a kos off. +</p> +<p>On the bank we found three other travellers encamped, and leaving them fast asleep, +we pushed ahead and took possession of the baraduree. This we found a charming little +place in a garden, full of ponds of sacred fish, with old <span class="pageNum" id="pb105">[<a href="#pb105">105</a>]</span>carved stones scattered about, belonging to the Hindoo mythology. Through one corner +of an upper tank a stream of crystal water flowed in from the mountain which rose +perpendicularly behind it—the water welling up from below in a constant and abundant +stream. Round this corner were some most grotesque stones; and here the sacred fish +were assembled in such shoals as to jostle each other almost out of the water; but +whether they were attracted by the fresh supply of water or the sacred images covered +as they were with votive offerings of milk and rice, flowers, &c., the fish or the +Brahmins alone can tell. +</p> +<p>Tradition states that an infidel Christian officer once killed three of these fish, +and having eaten one of them, died shortly after. Putting their sanctity out of the +question, however, the little creatures are so tame and so numerous that few people +would be inclined either to kill or to eat them. While feeding them with bread, I +could have caught any number with my hand; and holding a piece of tough crust under +water, it was amusing to feel them tugging and hauling at it, making occasional snaps +at one’s fingers in their efforts. They were generally about half a pound in weight. +</p> +<p>Our baraduree was built of wood, in the usual <span class="pageNum" id="pb106">[<a href="#pb106">106</a>]</span>style, with latticed windows of various designs, and having one room overhanging the +stream which ran through the centre of the house from the sacred tanks. Directly below +the place we occupied was a little waterfall, which conversed pleasantly day and night; +and by taking-up a loose plank in the floor we could see as well as hear it. Learning +that there were some ruins in the neighbourhood, supposed to have existed from before +the birth of our Saviour, we started in the afternoon for a place called Bowūn, or +more popularly Mutton, about two and a half kos off. +</p> +<p>The sun to-day we found very hot in this same valley of coolness, its rays coming +down on the backs of our heads in a very searching and inquisitive manner. Along the +entire path there were running streams in every direction: and what with these and +the magnificent sycamores and walnut-trees which shaded us as we walked, our opinions +of the beauty of the country got a considerable rise. The path from the Peer Punjal +Pass by which we entered appears to be the worst point of view from which to see the +valley. From either the Peshawur or Murree roads the effect is much finer; and from +the north-east, from which direction it is perhaps seldomer seen than any other, it +looks greener <span class="pageNum" id="pb107">[<a href="#pb107">107</a>]</span>and more beautiful than from either of the other points. +</p> +<p>At Mutton we found our three lazy friends of the morning, encamped under the trees +reading green railway-novels, and evidently very much puzzled how to kill time. Beyond +a tank teeming with sacred fishes, there appeared nothing whatever to be seen here. +Taking warning from this, we thought it not worth while proceeding to Bamazoo, where +we were told there were caves; but, treating the fishes to a small coin’s worth of +Indian maize, we retraced our steps and diverged about a kos off the Islamabad road +to Pandau. Here we were rewarded by coming suddenly upon a magnificent old Cyclopeian +ruin of grey stone, bearing, from a little distance, the appearance rather of an ancient +Christian Church—such as may be seen occasionally in Ireland—than of a heathen place +of worship. On entering, we found a number of ancient carvings on the massive stone +walls, but they were much worn, and the designs to us were unintelligible. Some of +them were like the Hindoo divinities, while others were more like Christian devices, +such as cherubims, &c. Altogether, it puzzled us completely as to its origin; but +there was no doubt whatever as to its having existed from an extremely ancient date; +and from its general style, as well as the <span class="pageNum" id="pb108">[<a href="#pb108">108</a>]</span>absence of any similitude to any other place of heathen worship we have met, we set +it down in our own minds as most probably a temple to the Sun.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e1694src" href="#xd30e1694">5</a> Most of the figures, as far as their worn state would allow one to judge, appeared +to be female; and there was an entire absence of any symbol at all resembling a cross. +Many of the huge pillars had been eaten away as if they were of wood, by the combined +effects of wind and weather; but hands had also been at work, as pieces of the decorations +and figures appeared scattered about in every direction. +</p> +<div class="figure p108width" id="p108"><img src="images/p108.jpg" alt="Martund." width="720" height="449" /><div class="figAnnotation p108width"><span class="figBottomLeft">W.H.K. Delt.</span><span class="figTop"> </span><span class="figBottomRight">Hanhart, Lith.</span></div> +<p class="figureHead">Martund.</p> +</div><p> +</p> +<p>Passing through the town of Islamabad on our return, we went into some of the houses +to see the people at work at the loom-made shawls. Very hard-working and intricate +business it seemed to be, and very hard and <i>Manchestery</i> the production looked to my eye, far inferior to the hand-made, shawl, though not +generally considered so. +</p> +<p>I tried to negotiate a shawl with the overseer, but he assured me that the pieces +were all made separately, and were sent in to the merchant at <span class="pageNum" id="pb109">[<a href="#pb109">109</a>]</span>Sirinugger to be put together, and that he in fact had nothing whatever to do with +the sale of them. +</p> +<p>In the evening we dined at a fashionably late hour, and were lulled to sleep by the +simple music of our domesticated waterfall. +</p> +<p><i>July 14.</i>—Started at daybreak for Atchabull, three and a half kos off towards the north-east. +The baraduree we found situated in the middle of a large reservoir, in a beautiful +but half-ruined garden; and here, the commissariat being unusually late in arriving, +we took the edge off our appetites with a quantity of small apricots, red plums, cherries, +&c. +</p> +<p>While exploring the gardens, we found, among other remains of grandeur, a Humaam, +or hot-bath room, which was in very good preservation, and had probably in its day +been honoured by the fair presence of Noor Jehan, with whom Atchabull was a favourite +resort, and who has been, at one time or another, over all these gardens, during her +lord’s visit to the valley. +</p> +<p>About thirty yards from the house, at the base of an almost perpendicular hill, were +the great sources of interest which the place possesses—viz., a number of springs +of ice-cold water, bubbling up to a height of two or three feet above the surrounding +water level, and forming three <span class="pageNum" id="pb110">[<a href="#pb110">110</a>]</span>separate rivers: one in the centre which expanded round our house, and one on either +side. Around were fruit-trees of all sorts and kinds, and from every quarter came +the gurgling sound of rushing water mingled with the singing of innumerable birds. +Here sweetly indeed do the “founts of the valley fall;” and their number and beauty, +as well as the purity of the clear and crystal streams which they pour over the length +and breadth of the land, it is which forms one of its chief and pleasantest features, +and has, no doubt, mainly contributed to its reputation as a terrestrial paradise. +To the abundance of these streams the inhabitants are indebted for the crops of waving +rice which spread their delicately-green carpetting over the entire valley; the purity +of the waters give to the silks the brightness of their dyes and to their shawls their +fame; and from its virtues also the love-lighted eyes are supposed to derive their +far-famed lustre. No wonder, therefore, that to the Hindoo at least, “Cashmere is +all holy land.” From his sun-burnt plains and his home by the muddy banks of his sacred +Ganges, he can form but a small conception of these cooling streams and shady pleasures. +Should he happen to read the glowing descriptions of Lalla Rookh, and be perhaps led +to reflect that— +<span class="pageNum" id="pb111">[<a href="#pb111">111</a>]</span></p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“If woman can make the worst wilderness dear, +</p> +<p class="line">What a heaven she must make of Cashmere!”</p> +</div> +<p class="first"></p> +<div class="figure p111width" id="p111"><img src="images/p111.jpg" alt="Painting versus Poetry." width="453" height="431" /></div><p> +</p> +<p>He no doubt ejaculates “Wa, wa!” in admiration of the poetry of the West, and thinks +complacently of the partner of his joys as all his fancy painted her. His highest +flights of imagination, however, probably fail to transplant him very far beyond the +actual wilderness which bounds his mortal vision, while Pudmawutee and Oonmadinee, +as here depicted by his own artistic skill, present, in all their loveliness of form +and feature, his best conceptions <span class="pageNum" id="pb112">[<a href="#pb112">112</a>]</span>of ideal worth and beauty. No wonder, therefore, that the reality of +</p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“Those roses, the brightest that earth ever gave, +</p> +<p class="line">Those grottoes and gardens and fountains so clear!”</p> +</div> +<p class="first">and above all of— +</p> +<p></p> +<div class="figure p112width" id="p112"><img src="images/p112.jpg" alt="Love-lighted Eyes." width="423" height="497" /></div><p> +</p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“Those love-lighted eyes that hang over their wave,”<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e1756src" href="#xd30e1756">6</a></p> +</div> +<p class="first">should shed its influence largely on his imagination, and that, in contrast to his +own dry and <span class="pageNum" id="pb113">[<a href="#pb113">113</a>]</span>dusty native plains, Cashmere should well be called the Hindoo’s Paradise. +</p> +<p><i>July 15.</i>—Marched at dawn for Vernagh, a distance of eight kos, rather over a Sabbath-day’s +journey. Here we had to wait a considerable time for our breakfast, the cook being +an indifferent pedestrian and the day a very hot one. The baradurree was curiously +built, close to an octagon tank, the water from which ran at a great pace through +an arch in the middle of the house.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e1767src" href="#xd30e1767">7</a> The tank was supplied with water in <span class="pageNum" id="pb114">[<a href="#pb114">114</a>]</span>great volume, but from no apparent source, and was filled with fine fish, all sacred, +and as fat as butter, from the plentiful support they receive from the devout among +the Hindoos, not to mention the unbelieving travellers, who also supply them for amusement. +The tank itself, the natives informed us, was bottomless, and it really appeared to +be so; for from the windows of the baradurree, some fifty feet over the water, we +could see the sides stretching back as they descended, <span class="pageNum" id="pb115">[<a href="#pb115">115</a>]</span>and losing themselves in the clear water, which looked, from the intensity of its +blue, both deep and treacherous to an unlimited extent. The water, too, was so intensely, +icily cold, that an attempt to swim across it would have been a dangerous undertaking, +and neither F. nor I could summon courage to jump in. We, however, bathed in the stream +which ran out of the inexhaustible reservoir, and its effect we found very similar +to that of hot water, so that a little of it went a very long way with us. As for +the fish, they swarmed in such numbers that they jostled each other fairly out of +the water in a dense living mass, while striving for grains of rice and bread. +</p> +<div class="figure p115width" id="p115"><img src="images/p115.jpg" alt="Vernagh." width="489" height="312" /></div><p> +</p> +<p>This also was a favourite resort of Jehangeer <span class="pageNum" id="pb116">[<a href="#pb116">116</a>]</span>and Noor Jehan; and I found an inscription in the Persian character which, in a sentence +according to Eastern custom, fixed the date of the erection of the building attached +to the tank as <span class="asc">A.H.</span> 1029, or, about <span class="asc">A.D.</span> <span class="corr" id="xd30e1799" title="Corrected by author from: 1612">1619</span>. The inscription runs thus:— +</p> +<blockquote> +<p class="first">“The king of seven climes, the spreader of justice, Abdool, Mûzuffer, Noor-ûl-deen<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e1805src" href="#xd30e1805">9</a> Jehangeer Badshah, son of Akbar, conqueror of kings, on the day of the 11th year +of his reign paid a visit to this fountain of favour, and by his order this building +has been completed. By means of Jehangeer Shah, son of Akbar Shah, this building has +raised its head to the heavens.” +</p> +<p>“The ‘Inventor of Wisdom’ has fixed its date in this line, viz:—‘Aqsirabad o Chushma +Wurnak.’ ”</p> +</blockquote><p> +</p> +<p>The fountain or reservoir, and the canal, &c. seem to have been the work of Shah Jehan, +Noor <span class="pageNum" id="pb117">[<a href="#pb117">117</a>]</span>Jehan’s son, or were probably remodelled in his reign. The inscription referring to +them runs also in the Persian character on a slab of copper: +</p> +<blockquote> +<p class="first">“Hyan, by order of Shah Jahan, King, thanks be to God, built this fountain and canal. +From these have the country of Cashmere become renowned, and the fountains aye as +the fountains of Paradise.” +</p> +<p>“The poet Survashi Ghaib has written the date in this sentence, viz:—‘From the waters +of Paradise have these fountains flowed.’ ”</p> +</blockquote><p> +</p> +<p><i>July 16.</i>—On the road again at daybreak, with the intention of going to a place called Kûkûnath, +where there were more springs, and which, from information obtained from the sepoy +who accompanied us, was on our road to Islamabad. However, like most information relative +to either direction or to distance in this country, it turned out to be wrong, and +we accordingly altered our course and made for our old quarters. Breakfasted under +a huge walnut-tree, at a village about six kos off, and reached Islamabad about one +<span class="asc">P.M.</span>, after a very hot tramp of ten kos, through groves of sycamore and walnuts, and hundreds +and hundreds of acres of rice-fields, immersed in water, and tenanted by whole armies +of croaking frogs. The people were principally employed in weeding their rice-crops, +<span class="pageNum" id="pb118">[<a href="#pb118">118</a>]</span>standing up to their knees in mud and water, and grubbing about, with their heads +in a position admirably adapted to give anybody but a native, apoplexy in such a hot +sun. +</p> +<p><i>July 17.</i>—In the middle of the night we were awoke by a tremendous uproar in our wooden habitation, +as if some one was crashing about the boards and panels with a big stick; immediately +afterwards something jumped upon my bed, and with a whisk and a rush, clattered through +the room to F.’s side, over the table, and back again to my quarter. Half asleep and +half awake, I hit out energetically, without encountering anything of our uninvited +guest; and the faithful Rajoo coming in with a light, I found F. brandishing a stick +valiantly in the air, everything knocked about the room; an earthenware vessel of +milk spilt upon the floor, a tumbler broken, and a plate of biscuits on the table +with marks of teeth in them. This latter discovery was quite a relief to my mind, +for the visitation had a most diabolic savour about it, and we were just beginning +to fancy that there was a slight smell of sulphur. However, the milk and the biscuits +being such innocent food, we were enabled to fancy that the intruder might have been +no worse than a wild cat, which had frightened itself by breaking, our <span class="pageNum" id="pb119">[<a href="#pb119">119</a>]</span>tumbler, and had eventually jumped through the window and made its escape. This interpretation, +however satisfactory to ourselves, was apparently not so to the <abbr title="Quartermaster General">Q.M.G.</abbr>, and to his dying day he will probably remain rather doubtful of the kind of company +we kept that night. +</p> +<p>At sunrise I paid another visit to the ruins of Pandau, or Martund, and sketched it +from the north-east; a view which took in the only columns of any perfection that +remained standing. +</p> +<p>Islamabad being, as its name implies, the “abode of Mahomedanism,” I had set the kotwal +to work to procure me a good copy of the Koran. +</p> +<p>On returning, however, I found that he had collected together a bundle of the common +editions printed in the Arabic alone, without interlineations. He assured me, however, +that they were rare and valuable specimens; and I was amused by the old gentleman +reading out a passage in a sonorous voice, following each word with his finger, and +astonishing the bystanders by the display of his erudition; but at the same time holding +the precious volume upside down, and thus failing in impressing at least one of his +audience. In the evening we started again for Sirinugger. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb120">[<a href="#pb120">120</a>]</span></p> +<p><i>July 18.</i>—Found ourselves, according to sailing directions, at anchor this morning, or in other +words, tied to an upright stick, at Wentipore, on the left bank of the river, where +there were some old ruins to be seen. +</p> +<p>The architecture we found very similar to the Pandau temple. One column, however, +was left standing, which was more perfect than any we had seen before. +</p> +<p>The ruins consisted of a large quadrangle, with cloisters all round, and the remains +of a temple in the centre; both these were completely decayed, but the enormous stones +piled together in grand confusion showed that the buildings had been of considerable +extent.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e1847src" href="#xd30e1847">10</a> The corner stones here alone pointed out the position of the cloisters, which at +Pandau had been in very fair preservation. +</p> +<p>About fifty yards from the entrance there were three columns of different form, sunk +in the ground, their capitals just reaching a little below the surface, and connected +by trefoil arches, all in pretty good preservation. +</p> +<p>A few hundred yards down the river we found another large ruin, but in a more dilapidated +state than either of the others. In both, the <span class="pageNum" id="pb121">[<a href="#pb121">121</a>]</span>designs carved in the huge stones were something similar in pattern—viz. a female +figure, with what appeared to be a long strip of drapery passing round either arm +and descending to the ancles. It was impossible to decipher the exact device, but +the breast and <span class="pageNum" id="pb122">[<a href="#pb122">122</a>]</span>head, in most instances, were plainly distinguishable. +</p> +<div class="figure p121width" id="p121"><img src="images/p121.jpg" alt="Cashmerian Temple Sculpture." width="493" height="645" /></div><p> +</p> +<p>About three kos from Sirinugger, we stopped at another very extensive site of Cyclopeian +ruins, at a place called Pandreton. Here we found the most perfect building of any +we had met; and for a considerable distance around were traces of what must have been, +in ages past, a city of some extent. +</p> +<div class="figure p122width" id="p122"><img src="images/p122.jpg" alt="Pandreton." width="487" height="720" /><div class="figAnnotation p122width"><span class="figBottomLeft">W.H.K. Delt.</span><span class="figTop"> </span><span class="figBottomRight">Hanhart, Lith.</span></div> +<p class="figureHead">Pandreton.</p> +</div><p> +</p> +<p>Among other interesting remains, there was the base of a colossal figure standing +in the midst of a field of cut corn. Only from the knees down remained, but this block +alone was over seven feet high; the toes were mutilated a good deal, but the legs +were in wonderful preservation. There was also, about half a mile off, an enormous +base of a column, resting on its side, at the summit of a little eminence, where a +considerable amount of mechanical power must have been required to place it. Its diameter +was about six feet; and at some distance we found the remainder of the column, split +into three pieces. It was about twelve feet long, the lower part polygon, the upper +round, and the top a cone similar in form to the stones dedicated to Mahadeö in the +temples of the Hindoos. The building which alone remained in at all a perfect state +was situated in a sort of pond or tank of slimy <span class="pageNum" id="pb123">[<a href="#pb123">123</a>]</span>green, and was quite inaccessible without a boat.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e1877src" href="#xd30e1877">11</a> Sending on the cooking apparatus and servants, I remained with the smaller boat; +and with a rug and a supply of biscuits, set to work to sketch the ruins. The operation, +however, was not performed without very great difficulty. Innumerable mosquitoes made +the spot their home, and at critical moments they persisted in settling themselves +in the most uncomfortable positions. The ants, too, took a fancy to my paint-box, +and even endeavoured to carry off some of the colours; so that between the two I was +soon fairly put to flight, and obliged to evacuate the territory. +</p> +<p>On consulting my Hindoo authority, Rajoo, on the subject of Cyclopeian ruins, he tells +me that they were built, not by man but by “the gods,” in the Sut Jûg, or golden age, +an epoch which existed no less than 2,165,000 years ago, or thereabouts! +</p> +<p>This view of the matter increases the interest of the ruins immensely, besides being +very complimentary to the style of building practised by “<span class="sc">the gods</span>” in that age. +</p> +<p>The Hindoo ages are four, and we are believed to be at present in the last of the +four, of which 5,000 years have been already accomplished. <span class="pageNum" id="pb124">[<a href="#pb124">124</a>]</span>The names and duration are as follows, viz:—Sut Jûg, 1,728,000 years; Treth Jûg, 1,296,000 +years; Dûapûr Jûg, 864,000 years; and Kul Jûg. 432,000 years. This makes the present +age of the world to be about 3,893,000 years! +</p> +<p>About five P. M. I reached Sirinugger, and found the advanced guard in possession +of one of the bungalows. Spent the night in a succession of skirmishes with innumerable +fleas, who appeared to have been out of society for a considerable time previous to +our arrival. Up to this moment I fancied that I knew something of the natural history +of the race, having studied them and fought with them and slept with them in their +happiest hunting grounds. Greek fleas, Albanian fleas, Tartar fleas, Russian fleas, +I had combated on their own soil, but never before was I put to such utter confusion. +All night long the enemy poured in upon me, and several times during the action was +I forced to leave the field and recruit my shattered forces outside in the moonlight. +As day dawned, however, I fell upon the foe at a certain advantage, and managed at +last to get a few hours of sleep. +</p> +<p><i>July 19.</i>—Made an expedition to the small lake to see a building which we were informed was +built by the Puree, or fairies—the Peri of poetical licence. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb125">[<a href="#pb125">125</a>]</span></p> +<p>After a sharp struggle up a steep hill, under a hot sun, we reached the building; +but, to all appearance, the fairies had less to do with the edifice than a race of +very indifferent engineers. It was evidently the remains of a hill fort, built of +stones and mortar, and with nothing wonderful in its construction whatever. It was +tenanted by buffaloes and a few natives; and having seen specimens of both before, +we took our departure again rather in a bad humour with both the fairies and their +partisans. +</p> +<p>In the plain below we found the remains of Cyclopeian ruins in an enormous block of +stone, part of a column. +</p> +<p><i>July 22.</i>—Started this evening in the direction of the water-lake in further search of ancient +ruins. +</p> +<p><i>July 23.</i>—Found ourselves at daybreak among the mosquitoes in a little stream about two kos +from Patrun. After breakfasting, we started for the vicinity of the ruins. As usual, +in the villages we passed through, we found traces of cut stone doing duty as washing-stones, +or corners of walls, &c; and at Patrun we found rather a fine old ruined temple, something +similar in style to those towards Islamabad.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e1906src" href="#xd30e1906">12</a> It was surrounded at some distance by trees, which had <span class="pageNum" id="pb126">[<a href="#pb126">126</a>]</span>tended apparently to preserve the building, for the stone carvings were clearer and +less decayed by time than any others we had seen. Being caught here in a heavy rain, +we had a scamper for our boats, and after a wet journey, reached Sirinugger about +eight <span class="asc">P.M.</span> +</p> +<div class="figure p126width" id="p126"><img src="images/p126.jpg" alt="Patrun." width="503" height="423" /></div><p> +</p> +<p><i>July 26.</i>—Finding ourselves rather tired of Sirinugger, and with no other books than Hindostanee +to beguile the time, we resolved upon an expedition across the mountains into the +regions of Little Thibet. Began preparations by hiring twelve coolies, at thirteen +shillings <span class="pageNum" id="pb127">[<a href="#pb127">127</a>]</span>each per mensem, and a mate or head man to look after them. Increased our stock of +ducks to twelve, and otherwise added to our necessary stores, and completed the arrangements +for a move. +</p> +<p>To-day a number of arrivals and departures took place, and the whole settlement was +in a state of excitement and confusion. Boatmen swarmed about in rival application +for employment, while all the rascals in the place seemed to have assembled together +for the occasion: those who had bills, wanting to get them paid; and those who were +either lucky or unfortunate enough to have none, wanting to open them as soon as possible with +the new comers. What with these and pistol practice and rifle shooting from upper +casements across the river, in order to expend spare ammunition, the European quarter +was a very Babel all day long, and we were not sorry to escape the turmoil and get +under weigh to new scenes as soon as possible. +</p> +<p>About dusk we embarked in two large boats with Rajoo, the cook, and the bhistie, the +other servants remaining behind, much to their delight, to take charge of spare baggage, +&c. left in the bungalow. One of the Maharajah’s army also accompanied us, a rough-and-ready-looking +sepoy irregular, whose duty it was to <span class="pageNum" id="pb128">[<a href="#pb128">128</a>]</span>ferret out supplies and coolies, &c. during our march, and at the same time, perhaps, +to keep a watch over our own movements and desperate designs. Passed the night under +gauze fortifications, the disappointed mosquitoes buzzing about outside in myriads, +and striving hard to take a fond farewell of their much-loved foreign guests. +</p> +<p>By strange sounds from the direction of my companion’s quarters, as if of smacking +of hands, &c., I was led to infer that they had partially succeeded in bidding him +good-bye. I, however, luckily escaped without receiving even as much as a deputation +from the enemy, and slept in happy unconsciousness of their vicinity. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb129">[<a href="#pb129">129</a>]</span></p> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep" /> +<div id="xd30e1449"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e1449src">1</a></span> Supposed to designate “The City of the Sun;” Sûrya meaning in Sanscrit “the Sun,” +and Nugger “a City.” <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e1449src" title="Return to note 1 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e1470"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e1470src">2</a></span> Cashmere seems to have been regarded for many ages merely as a source of wealth to +its absentee lords or present governors, and to have suffered more than ever, since +falling under the dominion of Hindoo rulers. +</p> +<p class="footnote cont">Of the first of this dynasty, who subdued and took possession of the valley in the +year 1819, Vigne remarks, in his Travels, “Runjeet Singh assuredly well knew that +the greater the prosperity of Kashmīr, the stronger would be the inducement to invasion +by the East India Company. ‘<span lang="fr">Après moi le déluge</span>’ has been his motto, and its ruin has been accelerated not less by his rapacity than +by his political jealousy, which suggested to him at any cost the merciless removal +of its wealth and the reckless havoc he has made in its resources.” <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e1470src" title="Return to note 2 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e1540"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e1540src">3</a></span> The Tukt-i-Suliman, an old Hindoo temple, the throne of Solomon the magnificent, the +prophet, the mighty magician, whom all pious Mussulmans believe to have been carried +through the air on a throne supported by Dives or Afrites, whom the Almighty had made +subservient to His will.—<span class="sc">Vigne</span>. The summit stands 1,000 feet above the level of the plain, and the date of its erection +is believed to be 220 B.C. <i>Vide</i> <a href="#appa">Appendix A</a>. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e1540src" title="Return to note 3 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e1646"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e1646src">4</a></span> “There is no God but God;” “In the name of God.” <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e1646src" title="Return to note 4 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e1694"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e1694src">5</a></span> This was written without being aware that the native name of Mutton is a corruption +of Martund, by which name the temple is also designated. +</p> +<p class="footnote cont">The meaning of Martund being in Sanscrit “the Sun,” additional grounds have thus been +furnished for determining the origin of the ruin. <i>Vide</i> <a href="#appa">Appendix A</a>. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e1694src" title="Return to note 5 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e1756"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e1756src">6</a></span> On this subject a good deal of difference of opinion seems to exist, and from Moore’s +descriptions of the furniture of his terrestrial paradise, which have added so much +to the fame of the valley, <span class="pageNum" id="pb113n">[<a href="#pb113n">113</a>]</span>it appears probable that his “muse,” thinking it useless to search abroad for materials +which existed in abundance at home, supplied him with what he supposed to be Eastern +celestial creations, entirely from his native shores. Vigne, however, says, “I do +not think that the beauty of the Kashmirian women has been overrated. They are, of +course, wholly deficient in the graces and fascinations derivable from cultivation +and accomplishment; but for mere uneducated eyes, I know of none that surpass those +of Kashmir.” On the other hand, M. Jacquemont, who found “celestial happiness” in +a plant of rhubarb, is unable to discover any beauty whatever in the Cashmerian ladies, +and has no patience with his neighbour’s little flights of fancy in depicting their +perfections. “Moore,” he writes, in his “Letters from India,” “is a perfumer, and +a liar to boot. Know that I have never seen anywhere such hideous witches as in Cashmere. +The female race is remarkably ugly.” Instead of adding to such conflicting evidence, +I have endeavoured to subpœna a credible witness to speak for herself; and the right +of private judgment being thus reserved to the reader, Gûlabie will no doubt be charitably +dealt with, and will find her proper position somewhere within the limits of a “hideous +witch” and a “celestial being.” <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e1756src" title="Return to note 6 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e1767"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e1767src">7</a></span> This place is mentioned in the “Tûzûk Jehangeery,” or “Precepts <span class="pageNum" id="pb114n">[<a href="#pb114n">114</a>]</span>of Jehangeer,” in a way which shows that the Conqueror of the World had not included +himself among his victories. +</p> +<p class="footnote cont">The name appears on a Persian inscription as Wurnagh, but is called by the natives +Vernagh, and is mentioned by Jehangeer in his journal as Tirnagh:— +</p> +<p class="footnote cont">“The source of the river Bhet (Jhelum)<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e1775src" href="#xd30e1775">8</a> lies in a fountain in Cashmeer, named Tirnagh, which, in the language, of Hindostan, +signifies a snake—probably some large snake had been seen there. During the lifetime +of my father (Akbar) I went twice to this fountain, which is about twenty kos from +the city of Cashmere. Its form is octagonal, and the sides of it are about twenty +yards in length. +</p> +<p class="footnote cont">“I accompanied my father to this spot during the season of flowers. In some places +the beds of saffron-flowers extend to a kos. Their appearance is best at a distance, +and when they are plucked they emit a strong smell. My attendants were all seized +with a headache, and though I was myself at the time intoxicated with liquor, I felt +also my head affected. I inquired of the brutal Cashmeerians who were employed in +plucking them, what was their condition, and they replied that they never had a headache +in their lifetime.” <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e1767src" title="Return to note 7 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e1775"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e1775src">8</a></span> The Jhelum is called in Cashmere, Behat—a contraction of the Sanscrit <i>Vedasta,</i> which the Greeks slightly altered to Hydaspes. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e1775src" title="Return to note 8 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e1805"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e1805src">9</a></span> The title of Noor-ûl-deen is also mentioned by Jehangeer in his Journal from Lahore +to Cabul, and its origin is thus accounted for in his own words: +</p> +<p class="footnote cont">“Now that I had become a king, it occurred to me that I ought to change my name, which +was liable to be confounded with that of the Cæsars, of Rome. +</p> +<p class="footnote cont">“The Secret Inspirer of thoughts suggested to me that, as the business of kings is +the conquest of the world, I ought to assume the name of Jehangeer, or Conqueror of +the World; and that as my accession to the throne had taken place, about sunrise, +I ought therefore to take the title of Noor-ûl-deen, or the Light of Religion. I had +heard during the time of my youth from several learned Hindoos, that after the expiration +of the reign of Akbar, the throne would be filled by a kin, named Noor-ûl-deen. This +circumstance made an impression on me, and I therefore assumed the name and title +of Jehangeer Badshah.” <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e1805src" title="Return to note 9 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e1847"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e1847src">10</a></span> These ruins appear to be in the greatest dilapidation of any in the valley. The date +of their erection is believed to be <span class="asc">A.D.</span> 852. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e1847src" title="Return to note 10 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e1877"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e1877src">11</a></span> See <a href="#appa">Appendix A</a>. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e1877src" title="Return to note 11 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e1906"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e1906src">12</a></span> <i>Vide</i> <a href="#appa">Appendix A</a>. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e1906src" title="Return to note 12 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div id="pt4" class="div0 part"> +<h2 class="label">Part IV.</h2> +<h2 class="main">Little Thibet.</h2> +<p class="first"><i>July 27.</i>—About six o’clock this morning we found ourselves at anchor under the mountains at +the northern extremity of the lake, and at the mouth of a dashing river of ice-cold +water, into which we lost no time in plunging. On mustering our forces after breakfast, +we found that our possessions required fourteen coolies for their transport. Our own +immediate effects took four, viz. bedding two, guns one, and clothes, &c. one; the +kitchen required four more; tent one, charpoys one, servants’ reserve supply of food +one, brandy, one, plank for table and tent poles one, and last though not least, the +twelve ducks took up the services of the fourteenth all to <span class="pageNum" id="pb130">[<a href="#pb130">130</a>]</span>themselves. The rest of our train consisted of the faithful Rajoo, who came entirely +at his own request to see a new country, the two servants, the sepoy, and the coolie’s +mate, who was to act as guide, carry small matters, and make himself generally useful. +After a most affectionate parting with our boatmen, Messrs. Suttarah, Ramzan, Guffard, +and Co., we started on our new travels at about ten <span class="asc">A.M.</span> under a broiling sun. After several halts under shady chestnuts, groves of mulberry, +&c., and passing by a gentle ascent through a lovely country, we came to our first +encamping ground, at Kungur, and pitched our tent under a chestnut grove, considerably +hot and tired by our first march, after all the ease and comparative idleness we had +of late been enjoying in the valley. Here we saw the first of the system of extortion +which goes on among the government authorities and the people; for after the paymaster +to the forces had settled with the seven coolies who were not in our permanent employ, +not being able to take all as we had originally intended, they assembled round us, +and complained most dolefully of the smallness of their pay. The sepoy, who appeared +a most pugnacious customer, cuffed some of them, and made desperate flourishes at +others with a big stick, and seemed altogether so anxious <span class="pageNum" id="pb131">[<a href="#pb131">131</a>]</span>to prevent, as he said, the “cherishers of the poor,” from being inconvenienced by +the “scum of the earth,” that we suspected something wrong, and on inquiring, ascertained, +that out of the amount due to the seven, viz. one rupee five annas, or about two shillings +and eightpence, the organ of government had actually stopped eight annas, or one shilling. +The mistake we soon rectified, much to the delight of the “scum of the earth,”—who +had certainly earned their three annas, or fourpence halfpenny per man, by carrying +our impedimenta eight kos under a hot sun,—and equally to the disgust of “the organ” +who handed over the difference with a very bad grace indeed, and was rather out of +tune for the rest of the day. Our hearts being expanded by this administration of +justice, we proceeded to a further act of charity, and emancipated our twelve ducks +from their basket, into a temporary pond constructed for them by the bhistie, where +they dabbled about to their hearts’ content, and soon forgot the sorrows of the road +in a repast of meal and rice. +</p> +<p><i>July 28.</i>—Marched at six <span class="asc">A.M.</span>, and after proceeding about a kos found that we were in for a regular wetting. Our +path lay through a beautifully wooded ravine with precipitous mountain peaks appearing +ahead in every direction: these, however, were soon shrouded in impenetrable <span class="pageNum" id="pb132">[<a href="#pb132">132</a>]</span>mist, which gradually gathered in about us, and proceeded to inspect us in a most +searching and uncomfortable way. +</p> +<p>The road however, though beautiful, was by no means a good one, and it was in many +places difficult work to keep one’s feet in the wet slush, over wooden bridges, or +along the side of a dashing torrent which kept us company, and which seemed to be +labouring just now under an unusual degree of temporary excitement, in consequence +of having had too much to drink. We had arranged to breakfast on the road, but the +rain made us push on, and on reaching the vicinity of our halting-place, we stopped +to inspect the condition of our garments, and to satisfy ourselves as to our future +prospects in the matter of dry changes of raiment. On opening our small reserve, of +which the mate had charge, I found that sad havoc had been made in the precious articles +we had been so hopefully depending upon for comfort and consolation at the end of +our soaking march. The last efforts of our generally rather useless dhobie had been +brought to bear upon our present equipment. The massive brass smoothing-iron and its +owner had alike done their best to start us creditably in life with the only clean +linen we were likely to behold for many weeks, and now nothing remained of the <span class="pageNum" id="pb133">[<a href="#pb133">133</a>]</span>first instalment of these spotless results, but a wringing mass of wet and dirty linen. +The sun, however, coming out opportunely to our assistance, we made the best of our +misfortune by spreading out our small wardrobe to the greatest advantage in its rays. +Our guide, who by the way appeared to know nothing whatever about the path, proceeded +to unroll his turban, and divesting himself of his other garments, took to waving +his entire drapery to and fro in the breeze, with a view to getting rid of the superfluous +moisture. Leaving him to this little amusement, in which he looked like a forlorn +and shipwrecked mariner making signals of distress, I repaired to a torrent close +by, and after a satisfactory bathe in the cold snow water, and very nearly losing +the whole of my personal property in the rushing stream, donned the few dry articles +I was possessed of, and proceeded to pick out our camping ground. We fixed it among +the scattered cottages of the little village of Gûndisursing, and while waiting for +the main body, stayed our appetites with the few apricots we managed to discover on +the already rather closely picked trees. +</p> +<p>Got breakfast at two <span class="asc">P.M.</span> just as the rain began to come down upon us again. The supplies procurable here were +flour, milk, fowls, and eggs; butter, however, was not forthcoming. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb134">[<a href="#pb134">134</a>]</span></p> +<p><i>July 29.</i>—Marched early after enjoying a drier night than I had anticipated from the look of +the evening and the fine-drawn condition of our tent. +</p> +<p>Our road continued up a beautifully wooded and watered valley, and reaching a gorge +in the mountains, about five kos from our start, we halted at a log hut a little way +beyond a wooden settlement dignified by the name of Gûgenigiera. +</p> +<p>Here we had a bathe in the rushing snow torrent, a curious combination of pain and +pleasure, but the latter considerably predominating, particularly when it was all +over. +</p> +<p>After breakfast we sent the coolies on again, intending to halt three kos off; however, +on reaching the ground, they unanimously requested to be allowed to go on to the village +of Soonamurg, the halting-place shown on our route. It was altogether considerably +over a Sabbath-day’s journey, being nine kos of a bad mountain-path; but as no supplies +whatever were procurable short of it, we held on our course. After leaving our halt, +the path led us close to the torrent’s edge, and the gorge narrowing very much, we +were completely towered over in our march by gigantic peaks of rock, blocks of which +had come down from their high estate at some remote period of their existence, and +now occupied <span class="pageNum" id="pb135">[<a href="#pb135">135</a>]</span>equally prominent though humbler positions in the torrent’s bed below. Occasionally +they presented themselves in our actual path, and at one place we found that our course +was blocked completely, the inaccessible mountain side descending precipitously to +the torrent, and leaving us no option but to take to the water, roaring and boiling +as it was. Our guide went first with great deliberation and groping his way with a +stick, and after an ineffectual attempt to scale the rock above, F. and I also unwillingly +followed his example. The water was piercingly cold as it swept against us, and the +pain was so great that we were glad to blunder over as quickly as possible, without +taking very much trouble about picking our steps. After passing this in safety we +came suddenly upon a band of hill-men with their loads, from Thibet; they were the +first natives we had encountered, and wild and weird-looking savages they appeared +as they congregated about us, gibbering to each other in their astonishment at our +sudden appearance. With them, was a strange-looking bullock, with long black mane +and tail, and hind quarters like a horse, which they apparently used for carrying +their merchandize. To-day we passed the first snow since leaving the valley, although +in the distance there was plenty of it to be seen. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb136">[<a href="#pb136">136</a>]</span></p> +<p>Nothing could exceed the beauty of the view as we approached our intended halting-place. +Having crossed the torrent by a wooden bridge, the mountains we had been winding through +showed out in all their grandeur, while above us, <span class="corr" id="xd30e1982" title="Source: inaccesible">inaccessible</span> peaks, with sharp and fanciful projections, nestled their mighty heads among the +fleecy clouds, which hung about after the recent rains. In advance again, other mountain +ranges rose behind each other, clothed on their southern faces with delicate grass +up to the point where the snow lay lightly on their rocky top-knots and hid itself +among the clouds. From the bridge, a rustic structure of entire pine-trees, we passed +through an upper valley carpeted with the brightest soft green pasturage, until we +reached the usual little cluster of dilapidated wooden tenements which constitute +a village in these mountains. This was Soonamurg, and crossing another bridge, formed +of two single giant pines, we came to a halt and pitched our camp close to a huge +bank of snow on the river’s brink. What with our halt, and the badness of the path, +we did not arrive until five <span class="asc">P.M.</span>, and as the sun set, the spray from our snowy neighbour began to wrap its chilling +influence about us, and we were glad enough to invest ourselves in some thick cashmere +wraps of native manufacture, <span class="pageNum" id="pb137">[<a href="#pb137">137</a>]</span>which we had hitherto considered merely as standbyes in case of extraordinary cold +on mountain tops. +</p> +<p>According to general report, however, we only reach <i>the foot of the mountains</i> to-morrow. This sounds well, considering that we have been ascending steadily for +three days, and have left huge avalanches of snow beneath us, not to mention the mountains +which we traversed on the Peer Punjal side before even entering the Valley of Cashmere +at all. +</p> +<p>At Soonamurg, where we had been warned that there were no supplies, we found large +herds of sheep and goats. The people, however, were not at all inclined to sell them, +and we had some trouble in getting hold of a couple of fine fat sheep from them, for +which we paid, what was here considered a high price, viz. two rupees, or four shillings +each. We also enlisted the temporary services of two hairy, horny goats, which are +to accompany us for the next three marches as portable dairies, no supplies being +procurable on the road. Butter and milk are both forthcoming here in abundance, and +occasionally rice is to be got. Penetrated with the freshness of the mountain air +and the freedom of our vagabond life, we came unanimously to the conclusion that we +had made a wise exchange from the <span class="pageNum" id="pb138">[<a href="#pb138">138</a>]</span><i lang="it">far niente dolces</i> of Sirinugger, and passed a vote of general confidence in the expedition. +</p> +<p><i>July 30.</i>—The wind this morning blew bitterly cold over the snow and into our tent, rendering +the operation of turning out rather more unpopular than usual. +</p> +<p>Got off, however, about six, and had a fine bracing march over a grassy valley among +the mountains. After about four kos, the sun began again to assert his supremacy, +and, in conjunction with the cold of the morning, rather took liberties with our faces +and hands. About half-way we came upon the merry ring of axes among the trees, and +found a party of natives constructing a log-house for the benefit of travellers towards +Ladak. Pitched our camp in a wild spot at the foot of the mountains, bathed in the +snow water, and had a sheep killed for breakfast. +</p> +<p>One of the live stock died this morning: an unfortunate hen had been sat upon by the +ducks, and the result was asphyxia, and consignment to the torrent. +</p> +<p><i>July 31.</i>—Finished up the month by a difficult march of four and twenty miles, encamping at +Pandras about eight <span class="asc">P.M.</span> and no longer at the <i>foot</i> of the mountains. Immediately on leaving our halting-place we commenced the ascent +of a steep glacier, and for upwards of four miles our <span class="pageNum" id="pb139">[<a href="#pb139">139</a>]</span>path lay entirely over the snow: so dense and accumulated was it, that even when the +sun came out and burned fiercely into our faces and hands, there was no impression +whatever made on its icy surface. +</p> +<p>The glacier was surrounded on all sides by peaks of perpetual snow, while parts of +it were of such ancient date that, ingrained as it was with bits of stick and stones +&c., it bore quite the appearance of rock. The path was in some places so indistinct, +that on one occasion I found myself far ahead of the rest of the party, and approximating +to the clouds instead of to the direction of Ladak. About five kos on our journey +we halted to let the kitchen come up, and had our breakfast on the snow in the company +of a select party of marmots. The little creatures appeared to live in great peace +and seclusion here, for they let us up, in their ignorance of fire-arms, to within +thirty yards of them before scuttling into their habitations. They were all dressed +in blackish brown suits of long thick fur, and considering that they live in snow +for at least eight months out of twelve, they appeared not the least too warmly clothed. +As we went by they used to come out and sit up on their hind legs, with their fore +paws hanging helplessly over their paunches, while, with a shrill discordant cry, +they bid us <span class="pageNum" id="pb140">[<a href="#pb140">140</a>]</span>good-morning and then hurried back to their houses again. Not having our rifles handy +they escaped scot free, otherwise we might have borrowed a coat from one of them as +a reminiscence of the country. After another kos or two we began to get clear of the +glacier; but occasionally we came upon enormous masses of snow jammed up on either +side of the torrent, the action of the water having worn away the centre. The path +gradually led us through rocky passes, over torrents spanned by snow among the magnificent +mountain range; and although the march was, rather long for a hill country, we found +no fault with it until about the last three kos, when it was getting late in the day, +and although fast becoming hungry, we saw no immediate prospect of getting anything +to eat. +</p> +<p>The last few kos we find invariably longer than their fellows; one kos by <i>description,</i> at this stage of the proceedings, being generally equal to two in reality. Asking +a native, how far we are from a halting-place, is invariably answered in one of two +ways: either <i>thoree door,</i> not very far, or <i>nuzdeek,</i> close. <i>Thoree door</i> means generally about four miles, while <i>nuzdeek</i> may be translated five at least. A kos too, which ought to be from one and a half +to two miles, means here anything between one mile and seven. Delaying as much <span class="pageNum" id="pb141">[<a href="#pb141">141</a>]</span>as possible, to let our servants up, we reached Pandras at last, and found all the inhabitants turned out to see our +arrival; they were dressed in long woollen coats and sheepskins, and looked something +between Russians and Tartars, with a strong flavour of the Esquimaux, as depicted +by Polar voyagers. As the sun went down it became bitterly cold, and we found the +natives even, shuddering under the influences of the snowy wind, which, setting in +from the mountains, appeared to blow from all points of the compass at one and the +same time. What the village of Pandras must be in mid-winter it is hard to imagine, +so covered with snow as the mountains around it are even in August, and so bleak and +so barren the valley in which it is situated. +</p> +<p>In spite of the cold, we astonished the entire swaddled population by taking off our +clothes, and bathing in a little crystal stream close by: two operations, in all probability, +which they themselves had never perpetrated within the memory of the oldest inhabitant, +This feat accomplished, we were much astonished by the arrival of a <i lang="la">rara avis,</i> in the shape of a British traveller, from the direction of Ladak. He turned out to +be an officer of the Government survey, now being carried on in the mountains, and +we took the opportunity of deriving from <span class="pageNum" id="pb142">[<a href="#pb142">142</a>]</span>him all the information we could, relative to the prospect before us. He strongly +recommended us to go to the monastery of Hemis, beyond Ladak, and also to the Lakes, +but the latter would appear to be beyond the limits of our time. The only natives +we had met during our unusually long march to-day, were four hairy-looking savages +from the interior, from whom, after much difficulty, I succeeded in purchasing an +aboriginal tobacco-pouch, flint, and steel, all combined in one, paying for the same +about three times its actual and local value, viz. two rupees. They were dressed in +long woollen coats, with thick bands of stuff rolled round their waists; and all four +had bunches of yellow flowers stuck in their caps, and pipes, knives, tobacco-pouches, +&c. hung round their girdles. Their shoes were of the Esquimaux pattern, the soles +sheepskin, coming up all round the front of the foot, where they were joined by woollen +continuations—shoes, socks, and leggings, being thus conveniently amalgamated into +one article of apparel. +</p> +<p><i>August 1.</i>—On the road a little later than usual, all hands being tired after yesterday’s exertions. +The path to-day lay among huge boulders of rock, which had come down as specimens +from the mountains above, and after a <span class="pageNum" id="pb143">[<a href="#pb143">143</a>]</span>short march of five kos, we reached Dras, a little assemblage of flat-roofed houses, +with a mud fort about half a mile from it, in the valley. This was built with four +bastions and a ditch scarped with paving-stones, which surrounded it on all sides +except one, where it was naturally defended by the torrent. On the road we passed +a curious bridge, built entirely of rope manufactured from twigs of trees. The cables +thus formed were swung across the torrent, from piles of loose stones, in a most scientific +way, though not one calculated to inspire confidence in any traveller with weak nerves +who might have to trust himself to its support. It appeared, nevertheless, a most +serviceable structure, and was decidedly picturesque. At Dras we were able to get +all supplies except fowls. +</p> +<p><i>August 2.</i>—Having a long and up-hill march before us, we were up and dressed by moonlight. Outside +the village, we came upon two curious old stones, standing about six feet high, upright, +and carved in the way we had already seen at the ruins of Pandau and elsewhere. These +stones were of irregular form, and carved on three sides, and the designs, though +much worn, were distinctly traceable. They represented, apparently, a male and female +figure, standing about <span class="pageNum" id="pb144">[<a href="#pb144">144</a>]</span>five feet high, and surrounded by three smaller figures each. Like all the other sculptured +figures we had seen, they were innocent of clothes, with the exception of the rope, +or very scant drapery, which ran across their ancles and up either side to the shoulders. +</p> +<p>Leaving these, we passed through a wild and rugged valley among the mountains, cultivated +in patches, and watered by numerous little sparkling crystal streams. At short intervals, +there were little settlements of mud huts, built, Tartar fashion, one on top of another, +and peopled by a few miserable-looking natives, who appeared, in their woollen rags, +to be cold, even in the middle of this summer’s day. The few travellers we met during +our march were flat nosed, heavy-looking creatures, with Chinese skull-caps and pig-tails, +and were employed in conveying salt to Cashmere, packed in bags of woven hair, and +laden on cows and asses as weird and strange-looking as their owners. About five kos +off, we called a halt for breakfast, and reached Tusgam about four <span class="asc">P.M.</span> +</p> +<p>Here we found a few <i>Arbor Vitæ,</i> and other shrubs, in bad health, the first of the tree species we had encountered +since ascending the glacier. +</p> +<p><i>August 3.</i>—Struck our camp at sunrise, and crossing the torrent, which still accompanied us, +<span class="pageNum" id="pb145">[<a href="#pb145">145</a>]</span>descended the Pass by a slight decline. During the day we passed through numerous +gorges, studded with giant masses of rock, and bounded on all sides by rugged and +inhospitable mountains. We only saw one village, and that some way off the road—Kurroo, +the guide called it. Breakfasted under an overhanging rock on the mountain side, just +where our path was, hemmed in by the torrent, and were disturbed during our repast +by several volleys of stones which rattled down over us from above. They were set +free by the melting of some large masses of snow, which, being covered with sticks +and dirt, we had not noticed when we chose our breakfast parlour so close to their +uncomfortable proximity. To-day we met more salt-carrying parties—uncouth-looking +savages in pig-tails, speaking a language that not one of our party could understand. +We also encountered an original-looking gold-washing association of five, who were +wending their way towards the snow with their wooden implements. They were all also +weighted with bags of grain, to keep them alive during their search. Their labour +consists in sifting the fine sand which comes down in the snow-torrents, charged with +minute particles of gold; and the proceeds, from the appearance of “the trade,” would +not seem to <span class="pageNum" id="pb146">[<a href="#pb146">146</a>]</span>be very great. They say it amounts only to a few annas a day, but would probably not +allow to the full amount for fear of being taxed. +</p> +<p>At our breakfast-halt we saw the most primitive specimen of a smoking apparatus probably +ever invented. It consisted of a dab of mud stuck in a hole of a tree, about five +feet from the ground. Two small sticks, inserted in this from above and below and +then withdrawn, had evidently served to form the smoke passage; while the bowl as +evidently had been fashioned by the simple impression of a Thibetian thumb, the whole +forming, for the use of needy travellers, as permanent and satisfactory a public pipe +as could well have been devised. It had just been in requisition before we passed, +for a small quantity of newly-burned tobacco lay in the bowl; and a fresh patch of +clay on the mouthpiece had probably been added, either in the way of general repairs +or by some extra-fastidious traveller, who preferred having a private mouthpiece of +his own. After rather a severe march through rocky mountain gorges, we reached Chungun, +a little oasis of about five acres of standing barley, with three or four flat-roofed +houses dotted about it in the usual Tartar style of architecture. It also boasted +four poplar-trees, standing in a stiff and reserved little row, evidently <span class="pageNum" id="pb147">[<a href="#pb147">147</a>]</span>in proud consciousness of their family importance among such rugged, treeless, iron +mountains. +</p> +<p>It was altogether a refreshing little spot for a halt, after the savage scenery we +had marched through; and pitching our camp in it, we were not long in introducing +ourselves to the little brawling stream of clear cold water to which it owed its existence. +</p> +<p><i>August 4.</i>—Started this morning in a mountain mist. Just outside the village we passed the scene +of the fall of an avalanche, which gave one some faint idea of the enormous forces +occasionally at work among these mountains. It had taken a small village in its path, +and over the place where it had stood we now took our way, among a perfect chaos of +masses of rock, and uptorn earth, trees, &c. The whole ground was torn and rent, as +by the eruption of volcanoes or the explosion of enormous magazines of powder. Passing +this, our path continued to descend the gorge until about two kos from Chungun, when +another torrent came down to join its forces to the one we were accompanying; and +leaving our old companion to roar its way down to join the Indus, we proceeded up +the valley in the society of our new friend. Passing a series of little villages nestled +among the <span class="pageNum" id="pb148">[<a href="#pb148">148</a>]</span>rugged rocks, we crossed the stream by a tree bridge and causeway, to the Fort of +Kurgil, where, after a long consultation, we breakfasted. The differences of opinion +between the guide and the rest of the natives as to the distance of a village ahead, +where milk and supplies were forthcoming, were so wide, some saying three kos, others +six, &c., that we finally determined upon getting some breakfast before deciding the +true distance for ourselves. The village Hundas was another most perfect little oasis. +It was only about five or six acres in extent, under the frowning mountain, and was +terraced and planted in the neatest and most economical way imaginable. The fields +were beautifully clean, and were quaintly adorned in many instances by huge blocks +of rock from the mountain above, bigger considerably than the whole of the houses +of the village put together. Leaving Kurgil, we made a sharp ascent, and crossed a +plateau bounded by some extremely curious formations of rock and sandstone. +</p> +<p>The mountains appeared to have been reared on end and cut with a knife, as if for +the especial benefit of geologists in general, although the hues of their many-coloured +strata were calculated to attract even the most ungeological mind by their brightness. +Descending from this plateau, <span class="pageNum" id="pb149">[<a href="#pb149">149</a>]</span>we came to a pass dotted with three or four little villages, wooded with poplars, +and adorned with a few shrubs of different kinds. Here every available inch of ground +which the grudging rocks bestowed was cultivated, although all around, the mud-built +native huts were broken down and deserted, in such numbers as to give the idea of +an Irish settlement whose inhabitants had transplanted themselves to America. At the +last of these little villages, called Pushkoom, we pitched our camp, the retainers +taking a fancy to the place from the promise it gave of abundant supplies. +</p> +<p><i>August 5.</i>—Made our first day’s halt, and enjoyed it considerably—not the least of its advantages +being the immunity it gave us from being torn out of bed at grey hours in the morning. +The rest of the force also appreciated the day of rest, and made themselves comfortable +after their fashion under our grove of trees. +</p> +<p>In the afternoon I ascended the mountain opposite to reconnoitre and inspect the curious +formation of strata, which formed the principal feature of the place. +</p> +<p>The ascent I found at first to be over a soft crumbling small stone, resembling ashes, +but of various colours, and in distinctly-marked strata. These were generally of pinkish +red and grey, <span class="pageNum" id="pb150">[<a href="#pb150">150</a>]</span>and from them in large masses, rose enormous blocks of concrete, in all manner of +forms and shapes, some like towers and fortifications, and others standing out boldly +by themselves, worn by the weather into holes and ridges. After a considerably difficult +ascent, from the crumbling nature of the stones, I reached the summit of the mountain, +and climbing a concrete monster which capped it, had a magnificent survey of the mountain +ranges and country around. In every direction the eye rested on snowy summits, and +the wind from them fell coolly and refreshingly after the toil of ascent under a hot +sun. +</p> +<p>Returning through the village, I found the natives hard at work collecting their crops +of wheat and barley, and stowing them away, generally upon the flat tops of their +houses. They seemed altogether a peaceful, primitive race; but, although their ground +appears in first-rate order, they themselves are uncultivated and dirty in the extreme. +The ladies, I am sorry to say, are even rather worse in this matter than the gentlemen. +The female costume consists generally of robes of sheep and goat skins thrown across +the shoulders; while a long tail of twisted worsted plaits, looking like a collection +of old-fashioned bell-ropes, forms the chief decoration. This is attached to the back +hair, and <span class="pageNum" id="pb151">[<a href="#pb151">151</a>]</span>hangs down quite to the heels, where it terminates in a large tuft, with tassels and +divers balls of worsted attached to it. On a hill overhanging the village were the +remains of a mud fort, which had been pulled down by Gûlab Singh in one of his excursions +to Thibet, with a view to bringing the inhabitants to a proper sense of their position, +and enforcing the payment of his tribute. +</p> +<p>The number of battered and deserted huts about the village is accounted for by the +erratic habits of the people, which induce them never to stay long in one set of houses, +but to flit from one side of the valley and from one settlement to another as the +fancy strikes them. That the large increase of the flea population among such a race, +however, may have something to do with their restlessness, seems more than probable. +</p> +<p>Except when impressed for government employ, they seldom leave the vicinity of their +villages, and one old gentleman told me he had never been even as far as a place called +Lotzûm, which is only two kos off! The religion seems to be a mixture of Buddhism +and Mahomedanism—the latter on the decrease as we get farther into the country. +</p> +<p>The dress assimilates to the Chinese—pig-tails and little skull-caps being the order +of the day. We obtained here good supplies of cow’s milk, <span class="pageNum" id="pb152">[<a href="#pb152">152</a>]</span>butter, &c., and among other things, some peas. These enabled us to celebrate our +Sunday’s dinner by a “duck and green peas,” and never since the first invention of +ducks could a similar luxury have been so thoroughly appreciated. +</p> +<div class="figure p152width" id="p152"><img src="images/p152.jpg" alt="Roadside Monument, Thibet." width="513" height="471" /></div><p> +</p> +<p><i>August 6.</i>—Started early again, and marched five kos, through the little half-deserted settlement +of Lotzûm to the village of Shergol, where we halted for breakfast. Here we found +ourselves fairly among the Buddhists, and saw an entirely new description of monuments +connected with religion, from anything we had yet encountered. <span class="pageNum" id="pb153">[<a href="#pb153">153</a>]</span>The most striking objects were a series of tomb-like buildings, without entrances, +and adorned on all sides by the most hideous effigies, rudely executed in coloured +mud.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e2112src" href="#xd30e2112">1</a> +</p> +<p>Some of these were men, depicted in bright red on a yellow ground, with horrible staring +countenances; others women, adorned with numberless necklaces and other ornaments; +besides these, there were peacocks, griffins with human arms, deer, &c., and all in +the most flaring colours and the very rudest designs. +</p> +<p>In the perpendicular face of a rock beyond was a very curious monastery, or abode +of the Lamas. It was built completely <i>in</i> the rock, and was reached by a natural cavity on the face of the stone. +</p> +<p>Jutting out from the upper part, balconies had been erected overhanging the precipice, +and these were decorated with red copings, spotted <span class="pageNum" id="pb154">[<a href="#pb154">154</a>]</span>with white. From the fact of only one of our party knowing the language, it was difficult +to ascertain from the natives the history of this curious abode, but they gave us +to understand that it was the home of their Lamas, or spiritual preceptors. Here we +met another of the race of wandering Englishmen, who was wending his way back to the +valley. He was returning from a shooting tour, was all alone, and appeared to have +had very hard work indeed of it, if his face and hands and generally dilapidated appearance +might taken as a criterion. Not being quite in such light marching order ourselves, +we were able to ask him to breakfast, and from his ready acceptance and the entire +justice he did to our offer, I don’t think he could have had anything to eat for a +week. +</p> +<p>He appeared to be a thorough sportsman, and had bagged several head of large game, +which he showed us. They were principally a kind of wild sheep with enormous heads +and horns, each of his trophies being almost a coolie load in itself. Leaving Shergol, +we entered a curious valley with rocks of concrete standing out like towers and fortifications, +and on the summits of these again, airy-looking habitations with red streaks adorning +them, and entered, as that at Shergol, by holes in the face of the rock. These were, +or had <span class="pageNum" id="pb155">[<a href="#pb155">155</a>]</span>been, the abodes of the Lamas; numbers of them now however, as well as the mud settlements +at their feet, appeared in ruins, and gave no sign of habitation, beyond having about +them a number of little flags stuck on long poles, which fluttered about in the breeze. +According to the account of our interpreter, which had to pass from Thibetian into +Hindostanee before it could clothe itself in English, the cause of this dilapidation +was the state of wealth and ambition at which the Lamas had arrived, and the consequent +interposition of Gûlab Singh to take down their pride and ease them of a little of +their wealth, both of which <span class="pageNum" id="pb156">[<a href="#pb156">156</a>]</span>he accomplished in the style to which he was so partial, by slaughtering some hundreds +of them and reducing their airy habitations to ruins. +</p> +<div class="figure p155width" id="p155"><img src="images/p155.jpg" alt="Road to Moulwee." width="511" height="403" /></div><p> +</p> +<p>At a place called Moulwee we came to a curious block of massive rock standing close +beside the path, with one of the red-topped houses built into its side. Above this +was a colossal figure with four arms, rudely cut on the face of the rock, and above +all was perched an implement, something after the fashion of a Mrs. Gamp’s umbrella +of large proportions, together with sundry sticks and rags, which seem to be <span class="pageNum" id="pb157">[<a href="#pb157">157</a>]</span>the common style of religious decoration in these parts. +</p> +<div class="figure p156width" id="p156"><img src="images/p156.jpg" alt="Rock Sculpture." width="347" height="439" /></div><p> +</p> +<p>The figure was about eighteen feet high, the lower extremities being hidden behind +the building at the base of the rock. It resembled in some measure the sculptures +occasionally seen among Hindoo temples, but no one appeared to know anything whatever +of its origin or history. +</p> +<p>Close to this there were an immense number of stones collected together, bearing inscriptions +in two different characters, one of which resembled slightly the Devanagree or Sanscrit. +Seeing such a profusion about, I appropriated one which happened to be conveniently +small, and carried it off in my pocket. +</p> +<p>The sun being intensely powerful, we called a halt at a village named Waka, perched +among the rocks, where we found a rattletrap of a baradurree, which saved us the trouble +of pitching our tents. Opposite to us was a curiously worn mass of concrete mountain, +which might easily have been mistaken for artificial lines of fortification, had not +the scale been so large as to preclude the possibility of any but giants or fairies +having been the engineers. At the head of the valley there was a fine snow-covered +mountain, which helped to keep us cool in an otherwise excessively hot position. The +cook having been rather <span class="pageNum" id="pb158">[<a href="#pb158">158</a>]</span>overcome by his exertions to-day, we got our dinner at the fashionable hour of nine +<span class="asc">P.M.</span> +</p> +<p><i>August 7.</i>—Starting from Waka at cock-crow, we marched up a steep ascent, through a bleak-looking +range of hills, to Khurboo, where we bivouacked under a tree and got breakfast about +noon. +</p> +<p>Afterwards, I examined more minutely the inscription on the stones, which, as we advanced +into the country, appeared to increase considerably in number. They consisted in almost +every case of the same word, containing five letters in one character and six in the +other, though I occasionally there were additional letters, and sometimes, though +very rarely, a stone with a different inscription altogether. After a good deal of +difficulty I succeeded in unearthing a Lama from the village to help me in my researches, +and a strange-looking dignitary of the Church he turned out to be when he did make +his appearance. He was a bloated and fat old gentleman, dressed in a yellowish red +garment of no particular shape, and looked altogether more like a moving bundle of +red rags than anything else, human or divine. +</p> +<div class="figure p159width" id="p159"><img src="images/p159.jpg" alt="Thibetian Monument." width="451" height="544" /></div><p> +</p> +<p>Finding that nothing was required of him more expensive than information, he appeared +delighted to show off his learning, and by means <span class="pageNum" id="pb159">[<a href="#pb159">159</a>]</span>of the sepoy, who was the only one of our party acquainted with both Thibetan and +Hindoostanee, I ascertained that the words carved upon the stones were “Ûm mani panee,” +and meant, as far as I could make out, “the Supreme Being.” As the old gentleman repeated +the mystic syllables, he bobbed and scraped towards a strange-looking monument close +by, in an <span class="pageNum" id="pb160">[<a href="#pb160">160</a>]</span>abject, deprecatory way, as if in extreme awe of its presence.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e2166src" href="#xd30e2166">2</a> +</p> +<p>On inquiring the origin of this new structure, which was built of stones and plaster, +and decorated with red ochre, all we could get out of him was a fresh string of “Ûm +mani panees,” and a further series of moppings and mowings, accompanied by a sagacious +expression of his fat countenance, indicative of the most entire satisfaction at the +clearness of his explanations, and a sense of his own importance as a Lama and an +expositor of the doctrines of Bûddh. +</p> +<p>He also explained the only other inscription which I had seen; and according to the +interpretation <span class="pageNum" id="pb161">[<a href="#pb161">161</a>]</span>of the sepoy, it ran thus:—“As God can do so none other can.”<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e2178src" href="#xd30e2178">3</a> +</p> +<p>Not another piece of information could I elicit relative to the religion beyond the +continual “Ûm mani panee, Ûm mani panee!” which our friend seemed never tired of mumbling; +and although the sepoy was, I believe, considerably more adapted for the extraction +of reluctant supplies of food for our kitchen than for eliciting such information +on the subject of theology as I was in search of, the real cause of failure was more +to be attributed to the extreme ignorance of the particular pillar of the Church that +we had got hold of, than to any little literary failings of the interpreter. Such +were the quantities of the inscribed stones about this place, that in one long wall +I estimated there must have been upwards of 3,000, and this in a country where inhabitants +of any sort are few and far between, and where none appear who seem at all capable +of executing such inscriptions. +</p> +<p><i>August 8<span class="corr" id="xd30e2186" title="Not in source">.</span></i>—Having suffered a good deal yesterday from the heat of the sun, we started this morning +by a bright moonlight, at about half-past four <span class="asc">A.M.</span> +</p> +<div class="figure p164width" id="p164"><img src="images/p164.jpg" alt="Natives and Lama." width="516" height="389" /></div><p> +</p> +<p>Entering the Pass of Fotoola, we ascended <span class="pageNum" id="pb162">[<a href="#pb162">162</a>]</span>gradually for some five kos, and reached a considerable elevation, with a good deal +of snow lying about on the mountains. A peak on the right was 19,000 feet above the +sea level, and few of those in our immediate vicinity were under 17,000 feet. From +the summit of this pass we descended about three kos to Lamieroo, without passing +a single hut or village on the entire road. The only natives we encountered were a +party of three from Ladak, on their way to Cashmere, with a couple of fine native +dogs, as a present from the Thanadar to some of his visitors. The pedestrians one +generally meets now are old ladies, carrying conical baskets filled with sulphur or +saltpetre, in the direction of Cashmere, and so shy are they, that on beholding “the +white face” they drop their loads as if shot, and scuttle away among the mountains, +so that, if inclined, we could seize upon the Maharajah’s munitions of war and carry +them off without difficulty. On reaching the vicinity of Lamieroo, the inscribed stones +became more frequent than ever. They were placed generally upon long broad walls, +the tops of which sloped slightly outwards, like the roof of a house. Supplies of +uncut stones were also in many instances collected together in their vicinity, as +if for the benefit of any pedestrian who might feel inclined <span class="pageNum" id="pb163">[<a href="#pb163">163</a>]</span>to carve out his future happiness by adding to the collection. Lamieroo, as its name +would seem to imply, appears to have been a headquarters of the Lamas and their religion. +It contains a curious monastery, or Lamaserai, built upon the extreme top ledge of +a precipice of concrete stone, and at its base (some hundred feet below) the habitations +which constitute the village are also perched on pinnacles of rock, and scattered +about, often in the most unlikely spots imaginable. Entering the bason formed by the +valley in which this curious settlement is situated, one opens suddenly by an ascending +turn upon the whole scene, and anything more startlingly picturesque it would be hard +to conceive. As the view appears, the first objects presented are a host of little +monument-like buildings, which line the path and are dotted about in groups of from +three to twelve or fourteen together. They stand about seven feet high, and, as far +as we could make out from the natives, are erected over the defunct Lamas and other +saints of the Buddhist religion, after which they become sacred in the eyes of the +living, and are referred to with scrapings and bowings and “Ûm mani panees” innumerable. +In the monastery we found twenty Lamas at present domiciled—fat, comfortable-looking +gentlemen <span class="pageNum" id="pb164">[<a href="#pb164">164</a>]</span>they all were, dressed in orange-yellow garments, and not a bit cleaner than the rest +of the natives, nor looking by any means more learned. Mounting the side of the bill, +and passing under one of the red-ring pillared monuments, we entered the precincts +of the monastery, and threading some very steep and dark passages in the interior +of the rock, were received by a deputation of Lamas, with the salutation of “Joo, +Joo!” +</p> +<div class="figure p164-2width" id="p164-2"><img src="images/p164-2.jpg" alt="Lamieroo." width="720" height="439" /><p class="figureHead">Lamieroo.</p> +</div><p> +</p> +<p>We were then ushered with great ceremony into their temple, much to the awe and consternation +of our guides, who apparently expected to see us as much overcome by the sanctity +of the <span class="pageNum" id="pb165">[<a href="#pb165">165</a>]</span>place as they themselves were. The temple we found a small square room with a gallery +round it, from which were suspended dingy-looking Chinese banners, flowers, &c., and +at one end were about twenty idols of various designs, seated in a row staring straight +before them, and covered with offerings of Indian corn, yellow flowers, butter, &c. +They were for the most part dressed in Chinese fashion, and in the dusky light had +certainly a queer weird-looking appearance about them, which was quite enough to overawe +our village guide; not being accustomed to such saintly society, he could hardly raise +his eyes or speak above his breath, but stood with hands joined together and in a +supplicating posture, enough to melt the heart of even the very ugliest of idols. +The service (by particular desire) began by three of the most unctuous of the Lamas +squatting down on some planked spaces before the divinities, and raising a not unmusical +chaunt, accompanying themselves at the same time with a pair of cymbals, while two +large double-sided tom-toms or drums gradually insinuated themselves into the melody. +These were each fixed on one long leg and were beaten with a curved stick, muffled +at the end. The performance of the cymbals was particularly good, and the changes +of time they introduced formed the <span class="pageNum" id="pb166">[<a href="#pb166">166</a>]</span>chief feature of the music, and was rather pleasing than otherwise. The service as +it drew to a close, was joined by a duett upon two enormous brass instruments like +speaking-trumpets grown out of all decent proportions; they were about five feet long, +and were placed on the ground during the performance, and as two of the fattest of +the Lamas operated and nearly suffocated themselves in their desperate exertions, +the result was the most diabolical uproar that ever could have been produced since +the first invention of music. +</p> +<p>Not being able to trust the sepoy in such a delicate undertaking, I was unable to +get any information from the Lamas on religious subjects; and all signs and suggestive +pointings, &c. were immediately and invariably answered by “Ûm mani panee,” so that +we left about as wise as we entered. The most interesting object in the place was +a library of Thibetian books. It consisted of an upright frame divided into square +compartments, each with a word cut deeply into the wood over it, and containing the +volumes. These were merely long narrow sheets, collected between two boards, also +carved on the outside with a name similar to the one on the shelf. The characters +were beautifully formed, and I tried to purchase a small volume, if a thing about +two feet long could <span class="pageNum" id="pb167">[<a href="#pb167">167</a>]</span>be called so, but without effect. There were about thirty of these books in the place, +ponderous tomes, carefully covered up, and little read, to judge by the quantity of +dust collected on them. They read us, however, a small portion of one, in a drawling, +sonorous tone, and with no very great facility. +</p> +<div class="figure p167width" id="p167"><img src="images/p167.png" alt="Thibetian Religious Literature." width="443" height="553" /></div><p> +</p> +<p>These books, together with a number of rudely-printed papers, of the nature of tracts, +<span class="pageNum" id="pb168">[<a href="#pb168">168</a>]</span>one of which I carried away, containing some of the characters similar to that on +the inscribed stones, appear to have been printed at Lassa,<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e2223src" href="#xd30e2223">4</a> the capital of Thibet Proper, and from there, the head-quarters of the religion in +these parts, all the musical instruments and other paraphernalia belonging to the +temples are also sent. One exception, however, I discovered; this was an empty brandy-bottle, +bearing a magnificent coloured label, which certainly could not have been issued from +the Grand Lama’s religious stores. To the English eye, or rather nose, it had but +little of the odour of sanctity about it; but here it evidently held a high position, +and was prominently placed among the temporal possessions of “the Gods.” +</p> +<p>The women here, and those we met on the road during the last two marches, wore a curious +head-dress, differing from anything of the kind we had before seen. It consisted of +a broad band extending from the forehead to the waist behind, and studded thickly +with large coarse turquoises. These generally decrease in size <span class="pageNum" id="pb169">[<a href="#pb169">169</a>]</span>from the forehead, where there is a larger turquoise than the others, down to the +waist, and where the hair ends, it is joined into a long worsted tail terminating +at the heels. Some of these bands must be of considerable value, but the proprietors, +although otherwise in complete rags, will not part with them for any consideration. +One lady whom I accosted on the subject, thought I was going to murder her, and took +to her heels forthwith. In general, however, the fair sex here carefully hide both +their charms and their turquoises behind the nearest rock or the most convenient cover +that presents itself, and vanish like phantoms whenever they discern a white man in +the distance. +</p> +<p>The cooking department being delayed by the ascent, we got no breakfast to-day until +one o’clock, unless a drink of milk and a biscuit on arrival could be called by courtesy +a breakfast. +</p> +<p><i>August 9.</i>—Descended from Lamieroo through a precipitous pass for about three kos and a half, +to Kulchee, a tidy little village of fifteen huts, situated in an oasis of apricot +and walnut-trees, the first we had encountered since leaving Cashmere. +</p> +<div class="figure p170-1width" id="p170-1"><img src="images/p170-1.jpg" alt="Inscribed Stone with Tibetan text: ཨོཾ་མ་ཎི་པདྨེ་ཧཱུཾ་." width="478" height="232" /></div><p> +</p> +<p>The people here seemed particularly simple and happy among their waving corn-fields +and wild fruit-trees, and they were most anxious to <span class="pageNum" id="pb170">[<a href="#pb170">170</a>]</span>supply us with apricots and milk, and whatever they could produce. The Gopa, or head-man +of the village, could speak a little Hindostanee, besides being able to read and write +his own language in two characters, and as he seemed unusually sharp and intelligent, +I was very glad to have a chat with him while waiting for the commissariat to come +up. The character most common on the inscribed stones, and one of those now in actual +use, he told me was Romeeque; the other, the square character on the <span class="pageNum" id="pb171">[<a href="#pb171">171</a>]</span>stones, is obsolete, and is called Lantza;<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e2254src" href="#xd30e2254">5</a> while a third character, which was the one he was most conversant with, but which +did not appear upon any of the stones, he called Tyeeque. +</p> +<div class="figure p170-2width"><img src="images/p170-2.jpg" alt="Inscribed Stone with Ranjána text ओंमनिपद्मेहूं." width="498" height="234" /></div><p> +</p> +<p>His explanation of the stones was, that at the last day a certain recording angel, +whom he called Khurjidal, would pass through the land, and inspecting these mounds +of inscribed stones, <span class="pageNum" id="pb172">[<a href="#pb172">172</a>]</span>would write down the names of all those who had contributed to the heap. What the +inscription was he seemed unable clearly to explain, but believed it to refer in some +manner to the Supreme Being. Whatever it was, all those who had contributed their +share towards its dissemination, by adding stones to the mounds, were certain of future +rewards, while those who had omitted to do so were as equally certain of punishment.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e2273src" href="#xd30e2273">6</a> +</p> +<p>This explanation of the difficulty caused me some qualms of conscience on account +of the future prospects of the unfortunate writer whose <span class="pageNum" id="pb173">[<a href="#pb173">173</a>]</span>particular stone I had appropriated; but for fear the Gopa himself might be the sufferer, +I thought it better not to confide my emotions to him, but to leave the case in the +hands of Khurjidal. +</p> +<p>Regarding the state of the people here, he told me that each house paid a tax of seven +rupees per annum to the Maharajah. This, for the entire village, would only give 105 +rupees per annum towards the enrichment of the Treasury. +</p> +<p>The Lamas, who have no ground of their own, appear to be a further burden on the population. +They are supplied gratuitously with food, and appear to be somewhat similar to the +Hindoo Fukeer, devoting themselves to religion and remaining unmarried. They, however, +are not so violent in their opinions, and are more conversable, to say nothing of +being decidedly cleaner. +</p> +<p>We breakfasted under the spreading walnuts, among an audience composed of the entire +village, who seemed much edified and amused by our novel manners and customs. Some +of our English possessions took their fancy immensely. A cut-glass lantern and the +label of a bottle of cherry-brandy in particular, seemed to them the very essence +of the rare and curious, and they <span class="pageNum" id="pb174">[<a href="#pb174">174</a>]</span>seemed never tired of admiring them. After breakfast we again took the road, and marched +three kos to another little wooded settlement, called Nûrila, situated, like Kulchee, +upon the Indus, or, as it is here called, the Attock. The noisy, dirty torrent, as +it here appears, however, gives little promise of becoming, as it does in after life, +one of the largest of the stately Indian rivers. +</p> +<p><i>August 10.</i>—From Nûrila we travelled along the Indus bank to Suspûl, a distance of seven kos +or thereabouts, stopping for breakfast at a village whose entire population consisted +of one woman! The river being shut in by high and rocky mountains, our path took several +most abrupt turns and startling ascents and descents in its meanderings, and proved +altogether the worst for coolies to travel that we had as yet encountered. The greater +part of our march, too, was under a burning sun, whose rays the rocks on either side +of us reflected in anything but an agreeable way, giving thereby a considerable addition +of colour to our already well-bronzed countenances. Near Suspûl we had to take to +the water, as a mass of overhanging rock jutted into the river and completely obstructed +the path; and here one of our coolies, stumbling, dropped his load into the torrent. +It was a <span class="pageNum" id="pb175">[<a href="#pb175">175</a>]</span>particularly precious part of our expeditionary stores, containing, among other things, +the small stock of brandy which was to last us back to Sirinugger. However, on inspecting +the contents of the basket, the precious liquid was safe and sound, and the only damage +was the conversion, <i>pro tem.</i> of our stock of best lump sugar into <i>moist.</i> Suspûl we found situated in a half-moon shaped break of fertility among the barren +mountains. The snow was within half an hour’s climb, while at the same time the sun +shone with such power as to blister our faces, and even to affect the black part of +the expedition, rendered somewhat tender, no doubt, by the unusual mixture of heat +and cold to which they had already been exposed. We encamped here under a grove of +apricot and apple-trees, which resulted in the production of an apple-dumpling for +dinner. +</p> +<p><i>August 11.</i>—Leaving Suspûl, we ascended considerably to the village of Buzgo, another of the +cloud-built little settlements so dear to the Lamas. The tenements were most picturesquely +pitched upon the extreme tips of almost perpendicular rocks, and to many of them access +seemed apparently impossible. Leaving this, we entered upon a desert of shifting sand +and stones, in the midst of which there was an unusually <span class="pageNum" id="pb176">[<a href="#pb176">176</a>]</span>long wall of the inscribed stones, one of which, although containing the same inscription, +was of a different pattern from any I had hitherto discovered.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e2306src" href="#xd30e2306">7</a> +</p> +<div class="figure p176width" id="p176"><img src="images/p176.jpg" alt="Inscribed Stone." width="391" height="410" /></div><p> +</p> +<p>The next oasis was Egnemo, formed, like all the others, by the existence of numerous +little springs of crystal water, which enabled the waving corn to raise its golden +head, and the apricot and the apple-tree to flourish in refreshing contrast to the +general barrenness and sterility which reigned around. +</p> +<div class="figure p176-2width" id="p176-2"><img src="images/p176-2.jpg" alt="Thibetian Monuments and Wall of Inscribed Stones.
Road to Egnemo." width="720" height="439" /><p class="figureHead">Thibetian Monuments and Wall of Inscribed Stones.<br/> +Road to Egnemo.</p> +</div><p> +</p> +<p>After a grilling march, we enjoyed the delights <span class="pageNum" id="pb177">[<a href="#pb177">177</a>]</span>of a bathe under a waterfall of clear cold water, and got our breakfast by eleven +o’clock. +</p> +<p>To-day, some of our brigade of coolies begin to complain of sickness, which sounds +alarming, not only to themselves, but to us, for none others are now procurable. This +results from their making too free with unripe apricots, and drinking too many gallons +of cold water on the road; also, however, from the fact of my having doctored the +first patient who had presented himself, with a couple of pills and some tea—a piece +of generosity which drove all the others nearly mad with jealousy and envy, and set +them thinking how they also might be participators in similar luxuries. The pills, +although in this instance selected promiscuously from a varied stock, were the great +objects of desire, and such was their confidence in the virtuous properties of the +remedy, that the character of the particular bolus that fell to their share was to +them a matter of no consequence whatever. So great a rage is there for medicine among +people who have never known the luxury of paying for it, that even the blind and deformed +continually applied to us for it on the road. +</p> +<p><i>August 12.</i>—Halted to-day, and gave all hands a day of rest, which was rather required after +our <span class="pageNum" id="pb178">[<a href="#pb178">178</a>]</span>incessant marching. In the afternoon we explored the village, and enjoyed a magnificent +sunset behind the ranges of distant snowy mountains. The crops here were more backward +than those met hitherto, although the power of the sun was rather on the increase<span id="xd30e2335"></span> than otherwise, as we advanced. Some of the fields were occupied by beans, peas, +and wheat, all growing like a happy family together. +</p> +<p><i>August 13.</i>—Made an unusually early start, this morning, for our final march into Ladak. The +first part of the journey was up a precipitous ascent, and over shifting gravel, which +was very trying to our already well-worn boots; and it was a relief when, on arriving +at the summit, we found a long and gradual descent before us, with an entirely new +panorama of snow-clad mountains extending away towards Ladak. +</p> +<p>In the distance, close to the river Indus, which here branched out into several small +and separate streams, there was a high mound, topped with buildings, which we made +for, under the full impression that it was our journey’s end: however, on reaching +it, and turning confidently round the corner, we found nothing but a deserted-looking +building, surrounded by an immense number of the monuments which the natives call +Permessur; while, stretched out at <span class="pageNum" id="pb179">[<a href="#pb179">179</a>]</span>our feet, and forming, as it were, the bottom of a large basin among the mountains, +was a dreary desert of glaring, burning sand. The place altogether looked like a city +of the dead: not a soul appeared in sight, except one solitary old woman, who was +slowly traversing the weary waste of sands, and all around was still and silent as +the grave. In order to gain some intelligence of our whereabouts, I was obliged to +give chase to this only inhabitant, and from her I discovered, that to reach Ladak—a +green-looking speck which she pointed out in the far distance—we had to cross the +desert sands, and still hold on our course for several miles. The sun was by this +time high in the heavens, and we had already come a longish march, so that by the +time I had traversed the arid plain under the blinding glare, and reached the green +fields beyond, it was nearly twelve o’clock, and I had had nearly enough of the journey. +It was, however, a couple of miles farther to the grove of trees, where, under very +indifferent shade, travellers are in the habit of halting to pitch their camps; and +on reaching this, I was glad to throw myself down on the grass, and, after a drink +of milk, and the slight refreshment afforded by a leathery chupattie, to go to sleep +on the grass, until the arrival of our servants and baggage <span class="pageNum" id="pb180">[<a href="#pb180">180</a>]</span>should give us a prospect of breakfast. These made their appearance about two <span class="asc">P.M.</span>, and all hands requiring a little rest from the toils of the road, we pitched our +camp under the trees, and set ourselves to the enjoyment of a few days’ halt in the +city of Ladak. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb181">[<a href="#pb181">181</a>]</span></p> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep" /> +<div id="xd30e2112"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e2112src">1</a></span> These monuments would appear to be of the kind designated Chod-tens and Dung-tens, +which have been thus described:—“In the monuments which are dedicated to the celestial +Buddha, the invisible being who pervades all space, no deposit was made; but the Divine +Spirit, who was light, was supposed to occupy the interim. Such are the numerous Chod-tens +in Tibet dedicated to the celestial Buddha, in contradistinction to the Dung-tens, +which are built in honour of the mortal Buddhas, and which ought to contain some portion +of their relies, real or supposed. The first means an offering to the Deity, the latter +a bone or relic receptacle. In the Sanscrit these are termed Chaitya and Dagoba.”—<span class="sc">Cunningham.</span> <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e2112src" title="Return to note 1 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e2166"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e2166src">2</a></span> This appears to have been one of the Dagobas or bone-holders, which are erected either +over the corse of a Lama or the ashes of some person of consequence. “The tribute +of respect is paid in Tibet to the manes of the dead in various ways. It is the custom +to preserve entire the mortal remains of the sovereign Lamas only. As soon as life +has left the body of a Lama, it is placed upright, sitting in an attitude of devotion, +his legs being folded before him, with the instep resting on each thigh, and the sides +of the feet turned upwards. The right hand is rested with its back upon the thigh, +with the thumb bent across the palm. The left arm is bent and held close to the body, +the hand being open and the thumb touching the point of the shoulder. This is the +attitude of abstracted meditation. +</p> +<p class="footnote cont">“The bodies of inferior Lamas are usually burnt, and their ashes preserved with the +greatest care, and the monuments in which they are contained are ever after looked +upon as sacred, and visited with religious awe.”—<span class="sc">Turner.</span> <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e2166src" title="Return to note 2 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e2178"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e2178src">3</a></span> <span lang="ur" class="aran">جو خُدا كريگا سو كويِ نہين كريگا</span> <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e2178src" title="Return to note 3 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e2223"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e2223src">4</a></span> “Tibet may be considered the head-quarters of Buddhism in the present age, and immense +volumes are still to be found in that country (faithful translations of the Sanskrit +text), which refer to the manners, customs, opinions, knowledge, ignorance, superstition, +hopes and fears of a great part of Asia, especially of India in former ages.”—<span class="sc">Csoma de <span class="corr" id="xd30e2227" title="Source: Koros">Kőrös</span>,</span> <i>Preface to Tibetan Grammar.</i> <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e2223src" title="Return to note 4 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e2254"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e2254src">5</a></span> These stones would appear to be peculiar to Thibet, although the sentence inscribed +upon them has been occasionally discovered elsewhere. Mention of it is thus made in +the Journal of the Asiatic Society of Bengal:—“On the main road from the Valley of +Nipal to Tibet stands a diminutive stone, ‘Chaitya.’ Upon this is inscribed a variety +of texts from the Buddha Scriptures, and amongst others the celebrated Mantra, or +charmed sentence of Tibet. The system of letters called Lantzá in Tibet, and there +considered foreign and Indian, though nowhere extant in the Plains of India, is the +common vehicle of Sanscrit language among the Buddhists of Nipal Proper, by whom it +is denominated Ranjá, in Devanagri <span lang="sa" class="deva">रंजा</span>. +</p> +<p class="footnote cont">“Ranjá, therefore, and not, according to a barbarian metamorphosis, Lántzá, it should +be called by us, and by way of further and clearer distinction, the Nipalese variety +of Devánágrí. Obviously deducible as this form is from the Indian standard, it is +interesting to observe it in practical collocation with the ordinary Thibetan form, +and when it is considered that Lántzá or Ranjá is the common extant vehicle of those +original Sanscrit works of which the Thibetan books are translations, the interest +of an inscription traced on one slab in both characters cannot but be allowed to be +considerable. The habit of promulgation of the doctrines of their faith by inscriptions +patent on the face of religious edifices, stones, &c., is peculiar to the Buddhists +of Thibet. The Mantrá is also quite unknown to the Buddhists of Ceylon and the Eastern +peninsula, and forms the peculiar feature of Thibetan Buddhism.” <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e2254src" title="Return to note 5 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e2273"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e2273src">6</a></span> This was the only explanation of the mounds of inscribed stones which I was able to +obtain from a native source; and some foundation for the story may be traced in the +legend—which will be found in <a href="#appb">Appendix B</a>—upon which M. Klaproth has founded the only explanation of the mystic inscription, +which I have been as yet able to discover. +</p> +<p class="footnote cont">By the Lamas themselves I never heard these mounds alluded to otherwise than by the +words “Mani panee.” Cunningham, however, who had ample opportunity of ascertaining +their meaning and origin, terms them “Manís” (in another form of spelling, “Munees”), +and thus describes them:—“The Maní—a word naturalized from the Sanscrit—is a stone +dyke, from four to five feet high, and from six to twelve in breadth; length from +ten or twenty feet to half a mile The surface of the Maní is always covered with inscribed +slabs; these are votive offerings from all classes of people for the attainment of +some particular object. Does a childless man wish for a son, or a merchant about to +travel hope for a safe return; each goes to a Lama and purchases a slate, which he +deposits carefully on the village ‘Maní,’ and returns to his home in full confidence +that his prayers will be heard.” <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e2273src" title="Return to note 6 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e2306"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e2306src">7</a></span> This was in all probability intended to represent the form of the lotus. <i>Vide</i> <a href="#appb">Appendix B</a>. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e2306src" title="Return to note 7 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div id="pt5" class="div0 part"> +<h2 class="label">Part V.</h2> +<h2 class="main">Ladak and the Monastery of Hemis.</h2> +<p class="first">The first event after being settled in our new quarters was the arrival of a sheep, +presented to us by the Kardar, or chief dignitary of the town, as a mark of affection +and distinction. This, according to the strict letter of the law, we should have refused +to accept; twenty days marching, however, while it had sharpened our appetites, had +rather diminished our stores. Sheep were not to be got every day, and an ill-looking +animal which we had succeeded in purchasing at Egnemo, had been overcome by the heat +of the weather and taken itself off on the road. Other supplies, also, were a good +deal weakened by successive attacks; potatoes had been extinct many days, and the +stock of ducks, <span class="pageNum" id="pb182">[<a href="#pb182">182</a>]</span>which formed our main stay in case of future difficulties, was rapidly succumbing +to the knife of the assassin. Under these circumstances we felt that we would be in +no way justified in hurting the Kardar’s feelings at the expense of our own, by refusing +his present, and believing ourselves to be in this instance fit subjects for out-door +relief, the new arrival was soon swinging about in the breeze, a welcome addition +to our unfurnished larder. +</p> +<p>Having thus ended the struggle between our duty and our feelings, we turned our attention +to the exploration of the surrounding country. +</p> +<div class="figure p182width" id="p182"><img src="images/p182.jpg" alt="Rajah’s Palace, Ladak." width="720" height="444" /><div class="figAnnotation p182width"><span class="figBottomLeft">W.H.K. Delt.</span><span class="figTop"> </span><span class="figBottomRight">Hanhart, Lith.</span></div> +<p class="figureHead">Rajah’s Palace, Ladak.</p> +</div><p> +</p> +<p>The town of Ladak, although in a commercial point of view by no means a flourishing-looking +settlement, was, as far as picturesqueness was concerned, everything that could be +desired. It was built in the style so popular throughout the country—on pinnacles +of rock, and such out of the way positions as seemed, of all others, the least adapted +for building purposes—immediately outside the town, occupying a sort of bason among +the surrounding mountains, <span class="corr" id="xd30e2369" title="Not in source">and</span> was what might fairly be called a “city of the dead.” It was of considerable extent, +and was formed of groups of the numerous monumental buildings which I have described, +and which in a country where the habitations of the living appear so <span class="pageNum" id="pb183">[<a href="#pb183">183</a>]</span>few in proportion to those of the dead, form so curious and remarkable a feature. +These tombs, although by no means of very modern date, bear traces, in many instances, +of the more recently departed of the Buddhist population. Burnt fragments of bone, +hair, &c., were scattered about in various directions, while, collected together in +one corner, were the little mounds of mud with a rise at one extremity, where the +sculptured turban ought to rest, which denoted the last resting-place of the Moslem +faithful. Meeting with the Kardar’s chupprassie, I entered into conversation with +him about the manners and customs of the Thibetians, a subject on which he seemed +to have very hazy ideas indeed, although not on that account at all the less inclined +to impart them to one more ignorant than himself. His opinion of the inscribed stones +was that they were all written by the Lamas, but he failed completely in explaining +for what reason they were collected together. He was aware, however, of Khurjidal, +who was to inspect them at the last day. The tomb-like erections, he said, were considered +in the light of gods; the bones and ashes of departed Lamas having been pounded up +together and deposited beneath them, together with such valuables as turquoises, Pushmeena, +rupees, &c. This fact would perhaps <span class="pageNum" id="pb184">[<a href="#pb184">184</a>]</span>account for their being so often in a ruined state—Gûlab <span class="corr" id="xd30e2375" title="Source: Sing">Singh</span> having, probably, taken a look at their foundations in search of such valuable pickings. +The reason my informant gave me for the unwillingness of the people, however poor, +to sell their superabundant ornaments, was that they regarded them as sacred, and +held them as their own property during their lifetime only; on decease the jewels +reverted to the possessions of the Church. The Lamas are provided, by the custom of +dedicating in every family of two or more, one to that office; should there be a number +of girls in a family, all those that do not marry become nuns, and adopt the male +attire of red and yellow. The nuns, however, seem to be by no means kept in confinement; +they work in the fields, and one of them enlisted with us as a coolie, and brought +her load into camp before any of her male coadjutors. Among other curious information +my friend told me, that the Thibetians by no means consider that each man is entitled +to the luxury of a wife all to himself; but that a family of four or five brothers +frequently have but one between them, and that the system is productive of no ill-feeling +whatever among the different members.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e2378src" href="#xd30e2378">1</a> He also <span class="pageNum" id="pb185">[<a href="#pb185">185</a>]</span>pointed out a fact which I had not before noticed, viz., that the Thibetians invariably +pass to the right hand of these piles of stones and other monuments, but for what +reason he was unable to inform me.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e2386src" href="#xd30e2386">2</a> Having finished his stock of information, which I received thank-fully in default +of better, he told me, with delightful coolness, that it was the proper thing for +me to give him a bottle of brandy for the Kardar, and that it would be necessary to +send also a corkscrew with the bottle, to enable him to get at it! The impudence of +the request was almost worth the bottle, but brandy was too scarce and precious a +commodity to justify us in pleasing the Kardar, so that all I could do was politely +to decline sending the corkscrew or the bottle either. In the afternoon we explored +the Bazaar, where we found abundance of dogs, dirt, and idlers, but little else. What +little there was in the way of merchandise the proprietors seemed utterly indifferent +about disposing of, and after visiting a <span class="pageNum" id="pb186">[<a href="#pb186">186</a>]</span>few shops we went away in disgust. The people were a mixture of Cashmeeries, Chinese, +Tartars, Bengalees, and Indians of all sorts and sects, and more idle, good-for-nothing +looking scoundrels I never laid eyes on. One most amusing group of Mahomedan exquisites +reminded one forcibly of <i>Punch’s</i> Noah’s ark costumes and Bond Street specimens of fashion. They were dressed in exaggerated +turbans and long white Chogas, or loose coats, which reached down to their heels; +and, as arm in arm, with gentle swagger, they sauntered through the bazaar, they had, +in addition to their heavy swellishness, an air of Eastern listlessness to which the +most exquisite of their European prototypes could never hope to attain. On reaching +our camp we found another traveller had added his little canvas to the scene; it was +one of the Government Survey, whom the natives invariably designate by the comprehensive +title of “the Compass Wallahs.” Wallah is, in Hindostanee, as nearly as possible an +equivalent to “fellow,” and in explaining the character of this particular order of +Wallah, the accent is always strong on the second syllable of the compass. The Compáss +Wallah in question we found quite a wild man of the mountains; his face, from changes +of heat and cold and long exposure, was burnt and blistered into all sorts of colours, +and, <span class="pageNum" id="pb187">[<a href="#pb187">187</a>]</span>to make his appearance more generally striking, he wore as head-dress, a flyaway, puggery, or turban of blue cotton, of the most voluminous dimensions and wonderful +construction imaginable. He gave us an amusing account of his operations among the +clouds; how he always rode a cow! and was so much alone that he at times began to +doubt the existence of other white men in creation besides himself; how he was <i>sea</i> sick at first, and unable to sleep at night from the great rarification of the atmosphere, +&c. He joined us during dinner, just in time for a triumph of a plum pudding which +our cook had unexpectedly produced, and his heart was so gladdened and expanded by +either the suet, the raisins, or the brandy, that he chatted away until the dissipated +mountain hour of eleven o’clock, when we sent him off to bed, much pleased with his +entertainment, and again reassured, at least for a time, of the continued existence, +not only of white men in the world, but of their plum puddings. Among other statistics +he gave us the height of Ladak, as 11,000 feet, and that of the recently discovered +monarch of the mountains, now set at rest as belonging to the Himalayan range, as +being 29,003 feet above the level of the sea.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e2402src" href="#xd30e2402">3</a> +<span class="pageNum" id="pb188">[<a href="#pb188">188</a>]</span></p> +<p><i>August 15.</i>—Employed all the morning in endeavouring to procure supplies of tea, and after unearthing +a queer-looking package containing seven pounds and a half, we differed about the +price, the proprietor demanding twenty-four shillings, or about twice its local value. +</p> +<p><i>August 16.</i>—There being no tidings of the arrival of expected caravans, we marched for the monastery +of Hemis, crossing the Indus immediately after leaving Ladak, and following it up +towards its source. Outside the town we passed a mound of the inscribed stones, which +must have been nearly a quarter of a mile in length, and probably contained as many +as 30,000. The left bank of the river, which thus formed our path, was a continuation +of detached huts, forming no regular villages, and affording very little shade or +apparent prospect of shelter for man or beast. The right bank, however, was studded +with picturesque-looking little villages, built generally on rocky summits, and surrounded +by tombs and Mani panees, to an extent almost to rival the towns themselves in size +and importance. About nine miles on the road we halted for breakfast, on the confines +of a desert <span class="pageNum" id="pb189">[<a href="#pb189">189</a>]</span>of smooth stones, from which the heat ascended like vapour, and made our eye-balls +ache again. There was no shade in sight, however, and milk was here forthcoming, so we made the best of a bad situation, and, after our repast, lost no time in getting +again under weigh. After a hot tramp over a perfect desert, we reached the wooded +little village of Chunga, where, as it was getting late, we called a halt and pitched +our camp. All hands being tired by their march, we got our dinner at nine o’clock. +</p> +<p><i>August 17.</i>—Started early for Hemis. From the formation of the mountains in which it is situated, +the entrance to the village opens upon the traveller suddenly and as if by magic; +and as we tramped this morning along the parched and sandy desert, welcome indeed +was the unexpected vision of trees and rushing water which the sharp turn presented +to our astonished gaze. +</p> +<p>The entrance to the gorge in which the monastery is situated was, as usual, quite +covered with Mani panees and walls of inscribed stones; one of the former was studded +with human skulls, and otherwise ornamented, in a way that proved the vicinity of +some stronghold of Lama talent, though not perhaps of the very highest order. +</p> +<p>The monastery we found situated in a beautifully-wooded <span class="pageNum" id="pb190">[<a href="#pb190">190</a>]</span>valley, thickly planted, and having a dashing little torrent foaming through the centre. +</p> +<div class="figure p190width" id="p190"><img src="images/p190.jpg" alt="Monument at Hemis." width="443" height="560" /></div><p> +</p> +<p>It was built as usual, on the very face of the rock, and towering above it was an +airy fort, ensconced among a number of crows’-nest habitations, perched about apparently +with more regard to effect than comfort. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb191">[<a href="#pb191">191</a>]</span></p> +<p>While waiting for the kitchen to come up, we inspected the monastery, and were waited +upon by half-a-dozen Lamas, who showed us through the various temples of the gods. +Originally containing some two hundred Lamas, its numbers had now dwindled down, by +their account, to fifteen or sixteen. We, however, saw actually more than that number +ourselves while wandering through the building. +</p> +<p>They owned to having treasure in the monastery to the amount of three lakhs of rupees +(£30,000), but of this we saw small signs during our inspection. +</p> +<p>Some of the divinities were, however, provided with vestments of cloth of gold, and +were seated upon thrones, studded with would-be precious stones. Others were accommodated +with large silver bowls, placed on pedestals, filled to the brim with “ghee,” or rancid +butter, and unless blest with inordinate appetites, these, from their enormous size, +might fairly last them all till doomsday. We were altogether conducted through four +temples, each inhabited by a number of Chinese figures, seated in state, with offerings +of corn, flour, rice and ghee, &c. before them, and these were generally served in +valuable cups of china, and precious metals. Hanging from the ceiling and the walls +around <span class="pageNum" id="pb192">[<a href="#pb192">192</a>]</span>were scrolls, decorated in the Chinese fashion, with figures of tightly-robed, narrow-eyed +ladies and gentlemen, scattered about with the usual perspective results. +</p> +<p>Some of these scrolls were decorated with scenes which it would take hours to decipher +and appreciate. One, in particular, of the last day, was covered with innumerable +little figures, and appeared well worthy of a close inspection. +</p> +<p>The bad people might here be seen, falling into the hands of some of the most disrespectable +looking monsters I have ever beheld; while the good were sitting up in a bunch, looking +on at the dreadful scene, in a satisfied and undisturbed way, beautiful to behold. +</p> +<div class="figure p192width" id="p192"><img src="images/p192.jpg" alt="Monastery of Hemis." width="431" height="720" /><p class="figureHead">Monastery of Hemis.</p> +</div><p> +</p> +<p>The most curious things in the place, however, were the praying wheels, which I here +saw for the first time. They were little wooden drums, covered round the sides with +leather, and fitted vertically in niches in the walls.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e2447src" href="#xd30e2447">4</a> A spindle running through the centre, enabled them to revolve at the slightest push. +They were generally in rows of eight and ten, and well thumbed and worn they looked, +but others of larger dimensions were placed by themselves, decorated with the words +“Ûm mani panee,” in the Lanza character, all round the barrel. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb193">[<a href="#pb193">193</a>]</span></p> +<p>In the vicinity of the monasteries were various small temples, probably chapels of +ease, rudely decorated with grotesque figures, in red and yellow, and having queer-looking +structures fastened on the top of them, generally a trident, with tufts of hair attached, +or strips of coloured calico, horns of animals, and other rude devices. +</p> +<p>In one place we came upon a praying-wheel, turned by water, but I was unable to ascertain +whether the benefit accrued to the water, or to the possessor of the stream, or to +the public generally. Sometimes the people carry portable wheels, and one old gentleman +we met was provided with a huge brass one, with a wooden handle. It was suspended +from his neck, in company with a collection of square leather charms, fastened by +a string to his coat. +</p> +<p>On my asking him what the structure meant, he immediately begun to set it in motion, +and piously ejaculating “Ûm mani panee,” passed on without another word, but in evident +pity for my benighted spiritual condition. +</p> +<p>Among other curious sights, we saw one of the Lamas sitting at a chapel door, having, +before him seven little brass pots. In each of these there was a letter of the words +“Ûm <span class="pageNum" id="pb194">[<a href="#pb194">194</a>]</span>mani panee,” and the pots being filled with water, he was employed in strewing each +with a few grains of corn from a heap at his side, keeping up at the same time a loud +mournful chant, and swaying himself to and fro, in time with the music. To have inquired +the meaning of this would only have again resulted in the comprehensive information +contained in “Ûm mani panee,” so we rested in our ignorance, and passed on, much to +the relief of the chaunter. After going all through this curious monastery, we repaired +to our tents, which had arrived in the interim, and which we found pitched pleasantly +among the trees, within a few yards of the torrent. After a bathe and breakfast, we +came unanimously to the conclusion that the water was so cold, and the air so cool +and refreshing, we could not do better than halt for a couple of days, under the protection +of the Church, before again taking the road on our homeward route. +</p> +<p><i>August 18.</i>—Out early for a day’s stalk over the mountains, after deer, or anything there might +be forthcoming. One of the coolies being a “shikaree,” or what they call in Ireland +a “sportsman,” I took him with me, and with another to carry some breakfast, off we +started at about five <span class="asc">A.M.</span> The ascent at first was so <span class="pageNum" id="pb195">[<a href="#pb195">195</a>]</span>abrupt, that, although in pretty good walking condition by this time, I found myself +halting very frequently to admire the prospect. Having attained the greatest height +actually attainable, we spied quietly grazing, about half a mile off, some half dozen +little animals, which my “sportsman” declared to be Ibex, and down Aye went again, +best pace, with a view to making a circumbendibus, to get behind them. With a view +to accomplish this, we had to pass across some very difficult ground, and at last +came to a smooth face of rock, with nothing whatever about it to hold on by, and, +moreover, an overhanging ledge, which fairly seemed to bar all further progress. +</p> +<p>The coolie, however, whose every toe was as useful to him as a finger, managed to +scramble up; and not to be outdone, I also attained some height, when, holding on +fly-fashion, and clinging to the rock with my fingers and grass shoes, suddenly the +pole which partly supported me slipped away, and my whole attention had to be directed +to again reaching the ground in as soft and comfortable a manner as possible. In this +I succeeded beyond my expectations, and, a second attempt being more successful, finally +reached the top. On attaining our hardly-earned post of vantage, however, there was +no <span class="pageNum" id="pb196">[<a href="#pb196">196</a>]</span>sign of our friends, but, suddenly, on the mountain below us a herd of about five-and-twenty +more appeared to our delighted view. They were standing gazing up at us in astonishment, +and for some moments we remained fixed and motionless, hoping to be taken for the +stones we were habited in imitation of. Then, crouching down and crawling along as +if on velvet, down we went again, and after another long and trying stalk, over broken +ground formed apparently of small slates placed edgeways, and crumbling rocks, whose +slightest fall would have been destruction to our plans, we attained a rock about +two hundred yards from the herd, and paused for breath once more. They were lying +about sunning themselves, with an outlying sentinel posted here and there on either +side of them on the look-out; and seeing an eligible spot some fifty yards nearer, +we stole along to reach it. We were not, however, destined to take this unfair advantage +of the enemy. Just as we had half crossed the distance, an ill-fated, abominable little +fragment of rock suddenly broke off, and at its first bound away went the herd like +lightning over the precipitous rocks, and with a little chirrupping noise like sparrows, +were in a few seconds well out of range of bullets. As the natives express it, “they +became wind,” and we <span class="pageNum" id="pb197">[<a href="#pb197">197</a>]</span>were left behind our rock, looking, after all our toils, to say the least of it, extremely +foolish. A shot which I took at some 250 yards was more to relieve ourselves by making +a noise than with any hopes of bringing down one of the light-heeled little creatures, +for their bounding powers put all correctness of aim at that range out of the question. +</p> +<p>The next part of the programme was breakfast, but alas! there were no signs in any +direction of the bearer of our supplies, and I now recollected that the rock which +had so puzzled us would be quite inaccessible to the coolie and his precious charge, +without which he himself was useless. All we could do was to ascend a high peak of +mountain, in hopes that the breakfast would ascend another, and that we could then +exchange signals of distress and obtain relief. However, after reaching our look-out +station, which took us some climbing, we could discern nothing around us bearing the +slightest resemblance to a coolie, and our hopes began to descend below zero. +</p> +<p>It was now about twelve o’clock, and taking advantage of the produce of the country, +I made a light breakfast off two stalks of rhubarb, and tying a handkerchief to the +top of my pole as a signal, lay down in the very minute portion of <span class="pageNum" id="pb198">[<a href="#pb198">198</a>]</span>shade procurable under a midday sun, and indulged in the pleasures of imagination, +conjured up by absent chicken legs and cold chupatties. After a long wait, I came +to the conclusion that the two pieces of rhubarb were entirely insufficient to continue +the day’s work upon, so I reluctantly gave the order to retreat upon our camp, and +turned from thoughts of breakfast to those of dinner. My grass shoes were by this +time completely worn out by the pointed rocks and flinty ground we had traversed, +and my spare ones were in the society of the cold chicken and the chupatties, so that +I was soon walking in nothing but socks. Before long, this portion of my property +was also run through, and I was finally obliged to borrow the sportsman’s pointed +slippers, in which I managed to get along over the ruggedest piece of creation I ever +traversed, and reached our camp about three <span class="asc">P.M.</span> Tired, hungry, and burnt by the sun, a bathe in the rushing torrent and a visit to +the kitchen were soon accomplished, and I then learnt that the coolie, being stopped +by the rock, had come back at once, and, having been again immediately packed off +by F. to search for us, had not been since heard of. +</p> +<p><i>August 19.</i>—Found the <abbr title="Quartermaster General">Q.M.G.</abbr> to-day laid up with fever and influenza, and administered <span class="pageNum" id="pb199">[<a href="#pb199">199</a>]</span>some quinine pills to him, besides ordering a steed to carry him on to Ladak to-morrow. +</p> +<p>Explored the Lama’s habitations and temples, and saw some very curious carvings and +paintings on stones, some of them not altogether in the Church order of design. +</p> +<div class="figure p199width" id="p199"><img src="images/p199.jpg" alt="Painted Stone." width="389" height="455" /></div><p> +</p> +<p>Some of the ceilings were beautifully decorated, and must have cost a good deal of +money in their day, but they were now rapidly falling into decay. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb200">[<a href="#pb200">200</a>]</span></p> +<p>During the day we had a good opportunity of seeing the Lamas go through their private +devotions. The operation appeared simple enough. Each as he entered the court and +passed along the rows of wheels, by simply stretching out his arm set the whole of +them in motion, at the same time repeating “Ûm mani panee” in a dolorous voice to +himself. Coming then to the large wheel with painted characters, he gave it an extra +energetic spin, which sufficed to keep it in motion for several minutes, and having +thus expended his energies for the time being, he again disappeared as he had come. +One of the smaller wheels I found in a state of neglect and dilapidation as to its +outer case, and thinking it a good opportunity to discover something as to the meaning +of the system in general and of “Ûm mani panee” in particular, I quietly abstracted +the inner contents, in full assurance that it would never be missed; that the wheel +itself would go round as merrily as ever, and that, as far as the prayers were concerned, +there were still sufficient left behind, considering the reduced state of the monasteries, +to satisfy the conscience even of the devoutest of Lamas.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e2499src" href="#xd30e2499">5</a> +<span class="pageNum" id="pb201">[<a href="#pb201">201</a>]</span></p> +<p>As I passed out, however, a huge black dog, which was chained up in the yard, seemed, +by the rabid manner in which he made feints at my legs, to be quite aware of what +I had done, and he snapped and howled, and strained and tore at his chain as I went +by, just as if he detected the holy bundle sticking out of my pocket, and thoroughly +understood my consequent guilty appearance. The principal designs upon the stones +here—some of which, in colour, were in wonderful preservation—appear to be cross-legged +effigies of Buddha, seated in that state of entire abstraction from all passions and +desires, which seem to be the end and object of Buddhists’ aspirations. +</p> +<p>A certain rotundity of form, however, and appearance of <i>comfortableness,</i> rather tend to suggest that the pleasures of the table at least <span class="pageNum" id="pb202">[<a href="#pb202">202</a>]</span>have not quite been renounced among the other pomps and vanities of Buddhist life. +</p> +<div class="figure p202width" id="p202"><img src="images/p202.jpg" alt="Buddha." width="553" height="496" /></div><p> +</p> +<p><i>August 20.</i>—Started for Ladak again, nominally at some desperately early hour of the morning, +but in reality at about half-past five, the sun not shining upon our position until +late, in consequence of our proximity to the mountains. Mr. Rajoo being still indisposed, +and, in his own belief, dying, we mounted him upon a hill <span class="pageNum" id="pb203">[<a href="#pb203">203</a>]</span>horse, where he looked like a fly on a dromedary. Halted for breakfast half way, and +had a hot wearisome march afterwards into Ladak, the sun being intensely powerful, +and the greater part of the journey over a glaring desert of shifting sand and loose +stones. So deep was this in some places, that it was with difficulty we could drag +our steps along. The latter part seemed perfectly interminable, and not until four +o’clock, burnt, tired, and parched with thirst, did we reach our old halting place. +Since our departure, the Thanadar had changed his fancy as to brandy, and now requested +a bottle of vinegar. This we promised in the event of his procuring us some tea, our +stock being low, and none other procurable without government assistance. By this +means we obtained a decorated bundle of pale-looking tea for thirteen rupees, or 1<i>l.</i> 6<i>s.</i> The bundle contained 7½ lbs., so that the price was heavy enough, considering our +proximity to the land of tea. +</p> +<p>My shoe-leather being in a doubtful state, I invested in a pair of the sheepskin Chino-Esquimaux +ones of local manufacture, but soon found that the old saw of “nothing like leather” +was quite a fallacy, when the leather savoured so strongly of mutton as that composing +my new boots did. In the morning they were <span class="pageNum" id="pb204">[<a href="#pb204">204</a>]</span>absent, and it was not until after much search that the mutilated remains of one foot +was discovered, gnawed and sucked out of all semblance to Blucher, Wellington, or +any other known order of shoe or boot, while the other appeared irretrievably to have +gone to the dogs. Our lantern here was also carried off by some of the canine race, +and left beautifully cleaned, but unbroken, not far from our tent door. +</p> +<p>Finding that there was no news of caravans, or probability of their arriving, we determined +upon striking our camp, and retiring again towards Cashmere, having attained the furthermost +point which the limits of our leave allowed. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb205">[<a href="#pb205">205</a>]</span></p> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep" /> +<div id="xd30e2378"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e2378src">1</a></span> Of this custom Turner remarks, alluding to Thibet Proper:—“Here we find a practice +at once different from the modes of <span class="pageNum" id="pb185n">[<a href="#pb185n">185</a>]</span>Europe, and opposite to those of Asia. That of one female associating her fate and +fortune with all the brothers of a family, without any restriction of age or numbers. +The choice of a wife is the privilege of the elder brother; and singular as it may +seem, a Thibetan wife is as jealous of her connubial rites as ever the despot of an +Indian Zenana is of the favours of his imprisoned fair.” <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e2378src" title="Return to note 1 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e2386"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e2386src">2</a></span> “As the inscription of course begins at opposite ends on each side, the Thibetans +are careful in passing that they do not trace the words backwards.”—<span class="sc">Turner.</span> <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e2386src" title="Return to note 2 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e2402"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e2402src">3</a></span> This is Mount “Everest,” which has been called, the King of <span class="pageNum" id="pb188n">[<a href="#pb188n">188</a>]</span>the South. The King of the North, “Nunga Purbut,” is 26,629 feet above the level of +the sea. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e2402src" title="Return to note 3 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e2447"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e2447src">4</a></span> <i>Vide</i> illustration, Hemis Monastery. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e2447src" title="Return to note 4 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e2499"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e2499src">5</a></span> The only information I here again received was “Ûm mani panee!” The wheel consisted +of a roll of the thinnest paper, six inches in diameter, and five and a half in width, +closely printed <span class="pageNum" id="pb201n">[<a href="#pb201n">201</a>]</span>throughout with the eternally recurring words, which all appeared so ready to pronounce +and none seemed able to explain. The roll was sixty yards long, and was composed of +a succession of strips, one foot nine inches in length, and all joined together. The +whole was inclosed in a coarse canvas cover, open at both ends, and marked with what +was no doubt the official seal of the particular society for the diffusion of ignorance +at Lassa, from which it had originally emanated. Each of the strips contained the +mystic sentence, one hundred and seventy times, so that I was thus at once put into +possession of all the valuable intelligence to be derived from “Ûm mani panee,” repeated +between seventeen and eighteen thousand times. <i>Vide</i> <a href="#appb">Appendix B</a>. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e2499src" title="Return to note 5 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div id="pt6" class="div0 part"> +<h2 class="label">Part VI.</h2> +<h2 class="main">A Retreat to the Valley.</h2> +<p class="first"><i>August 21.</i>—Left Ladak about four <span class="asc">P.M.</span> and halted for the night on the confines of the desert-plain at Pitok. On the road +I succeeded—much to my astonishment—in getting a necklace of bits of amber, and a +turquoise, from an old lady, whom I found at her cottage-door weaving goat’s-hair +cloth. She took two rupees for the family jewels, and, when the bargain was struck, +seemed in a desperate fright at what she had done, looking about in every direction +to see that no avaricious old Lama was near, nor any of her gossiping acquaintance, +who would be likely to tell <i>the minister</i> of what she had done. +</p> +<p>For the first time during our travels, the retainers turned a little rusty to-day. +The scarcity of the tobacco supply and dislike to <span class="pageNum" id="pb206">[<a href="#pb206">206</a>]</span>quit the amusements of city life were the chief causes, and the consequence was that +the cook, who was sent off at two o’clock to have dinner ready for us on arrival, +made his appearance about sunset and gave us dinner at nine <span class="asc">P.M.</span> The <abbr title="Quartermaster General">Q.M.G.</abbr> and the Sipahee sauntered in afterwards at their leisure, having left the coolies +and ourselves to pitch the camp how and where we liked. Smarting under these indignities, +and knowing that the Sipahee was the head and front of the offending, I, in a weak +moment, committed an assault upon that ferocious warrior. The consequence was that +the representative of “The Army,” feeling its dignity insulted in the face of the +populace, immediately set to work upon the unfortunate natives, and assaulted even +the gopa, or kotwal, of the village; and so severely was one of the coolies handled, +that I was obliged to interfere in the cause of peace, and not without difficulty +succeeded in stopping the stone I had thus so unwittingly set rolling. +</p> +<p>This same Sipahee rejoiced in the name of Dilour Khan, which might be loosely translated +the “Invincible One,” and such we always called him. He was a fierce-looking soldier +beyond measure to look at, and very terrible among the miserable Thibetians, making +desperate <span class="pageNum" id="pb207">[<a href="#pb207">207</a>]</span>onslaughts upon the unfortunate boors, to obtain supplies fit, as he said, for the +Grandees, the Cherishers of the Poor, the Protection of the World, &c. +</p> +<p>The style of head-dress generally worn among the natives facilitated his efforts immensely +in these matters; for, throwing aloft his sword, and relinquishing his umbrella, he +used to seize suddenly upon a pig-tail, and, handling it after the fashion of a bell-rope, +proceed to insist upon the production of impossible mutton and other delicacies in +a way that was almost always successful, even under circumstances apparently the most +hopeless. +</p> +<p>He had a sharp, detonating way, too, of delivering a volley of Thibetian, at the same +time curling up his fierce-looking moustaches and whiskers, and gesticulating with +both arms, which always had a great effect, the more so that the expletives were generally +in Hindostanee, and not being understood, were all the more terrible to the unfortunate +pig-tails on that account. +</p> +<p><i>August 22.</i>—Left for Egnemo, over our old ground, which, wanting the attraction of novelty, appeared +to us rather longer than on first acquaintance. The sun, too, was more powerful than +ever and the deep soft sand more trying, <span class="pageNum" id="pb208">[<a href="#pb208">208</a>]</span>so that we were glad enough to get under shelter at our journey’s end. Here we found +the apricot trees, which were teeming with fruit when we passed, completely stripped +and bare, and it was with difficulty we got a few from the houses for preserving purposes. +</p> +<p><i>August 23.</i>—Made an early start, and arrived at Suspûl after a pleasant march, a cool breeze +from the mountains fanning our faces the entire way. Here we pitched upon a cool and +shady camping-ground, close to a rushing torrent, where we were soon immersed in ice-cold +water. While making a short cut back to breakfast up a precipitous face of concrete +stone, I very nearly finished my wanderings in Thibet with an unpleasantly abrupt +full stop. I had nearly reached the top, which was higher than I had imagined, when +the treacherous lumps of stone to which I was clinging, came away in my hands, and, +with a tremendous crash, down I came in a perfect storm of dirt, dust, and stones, +very much to the fright and astonishment of F. and the mate, who were quietly finishing +their toilet below. A broken bone in such a place as Egnemo would have been a serious +misfortune, and it was therefore a matter of considerable satisfaction to find that, +although half-stunned and doing but little credit in appearance to my <span class="pageNum" id="pb209">[<a href="#pb209">209</a>]</span>recent washing, I had escaped with no worse injuries than torn hands and what the +doctors would call abrasions of the side and elbow. +</p> +<p><i>August 24.</i>—Marched as usual, and reached Nûrila about noon. From the hilliness of the road and +the laziness of the coolies combined, they did not arrive until two <span class="asc">P.M.</span>, so that we breakfasted at three o’clock. To occupy the time, however, we took advantage +of the products of the country, and set to work upon a quantity of apples, and having +both thirst and hunger to assuage, I think we got through about sixteen each before +the kitchen appeared. While bathing we were suddenly caught in a pouring shower of +rain, which obliged us to snatch up our only garments and beat a hasty and not to +say dignified retreat into a little den of a water-mill, where we crouched until it +was over. After the rain had stopped, a curious fall of stones and rocks took place +down the precipitous face of mountain which bounded the opposite side of the Indus +to our camp. The noise and the commotion the stones made in their descent, reminded +one exactly of volleys of grape, and to any traveller unfortunate enough to get in +their way, the results would probably have been quite as disastrous. +</p> +<p>Our larder having been low of late, we effected <span class="pageNum" id="pb210">[<a href="#pb210">210</a>]</span>the purchase of a sheep here, for which we paid two shillings. +</p> +<p><i>August 25.</i>—Left for Lamieroo. The khitmutgar, having reported himself sick to-day, we mounted +him on a pony, the efficiency of that branch of the service being of vital importance +to the future prospects of the expedition. Having discovered, by yesterday’s experience, +that nature abhors a vacuum, and no apples being forthcoming at Lamieroo, we halted +for breakfast at the village of Kulchee. +</p> +<p>Here I tried hard to purchase a curiously contrived praying-wheel from an old Lama, +but without success. My old acquaintance, the gopa, however, brought me one for sale, +but it was in such a dilapidated state, and so highly valued as church property, that +I let him keep his shaky religious curiosity at his own price. Leaving Kulchee, we +crossed the Indus at a mud fort, and bid the roaring, dirty river a final good-bye. +Near this the bhistie and khitmutgar, journeying together, lost the path, and found +themselves well on the road to Iscardo before discovering their mistake. The road +to-day, like all our return journeys, appeared twice the length it did on first acquaintance. +The hills, too, were very severe on the coolies, and it was fortunate we halted for +breakfast on the road. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb211">[<a href="#pb211">211</a>]</span></p> +<p>At Lamieroo, we found a great change in the temperature; a strong cold breeze blowing, +and a general winteriness prevailing, which affected our retainers considerably more +than it did ourselves. The <abbr title="Quartermaster General">Q.M.G.</abbr> in particular, not having entirely recovered his health, and being low in the article +of tobacco, still believed himself to be dying, and was most unusually low-spirited +and down in the mouth. As it threatened rain, we pitched our camp close to an old +serai, in order to allow our servants to ensconce themselves under a roof, and to +derive the full benefit of their wood fire, which they lost no time in kindling. +</p> +<p><i>August 26.</i>—Exactly a mouth to-day since leaving Sirinugger. The live stock begin to show signs +of time on their constitutions; the four surviving ducks wandering about, with a melancholy +sort of consciousness that the mysterious fate that has overtaken their late companions +is also hanging over themselves, and appearing entirely changed in consequence from +the joyous birds they used to be on first starting for their Thibetian travels. To-day +being Sunday, we all enjoyed a rest; and the feeling on waking at dawn, and remembering +that we were not to be rudely turned out of bed, was quite a delightful and novel +sensation. The wind, <span class="pageNum" id="pb212">[<a href="#pb212">212</a>]</span>too, was unusually chill, and as it made nothing of the trifling obstacle presented +by the walls of our tent, we were some time before we finally emerged from among the +bed-clothes. The people here we found employed in <i>pulling</i> their corn crops, and stacking them upon the roofs of their houses. At Suspûl, although +much hotter than here, they had hardly begun to take in their crops, and at Ladak, +the harvest was untouched when we left. +</p> +<p>In the afternoon, while rambling about the crow’s nests of Lamieroo, I discovered +by chance a very curious temple in course of construction, and a number of Lamas and +Zemindars superintending the proceedings. The principal decorative work was being +carried on by a Chinese-looking, pig-tailed artist, evidently not a local celebrity, +who was embellishing the walls most profusely with scenes, portrayed in the purest +style of pre-Raphaelite colouring. The figures in these had only been furnished with +flesh-coloured spots where their faces were to be, and the foreign “pigtail” was employed, +seated on a high platform, in furnishing them with features and casts of expression +in accordance with the spirit of the scenes which they helped to compose. This he +did certainly with very great skill, and the operation was a most interesting <span class="pageNum" id="pb213">[<a href="#pb213">213</a>]</span>one to watch. The floor was covered with pigments, and materials of all kinds, and +the little community, in the midst of the surrounding apparent solitude, were working +away like a hive of bees. They appeared to have a hive-like dislike also of the approach +of a stranger, and one old Lama, with a twisted mat of hair erected on the top of +his head—a drone of the hive—took a particular dislike to me, and scowled savagely +as I quietly examined the curious designs upon the walls. +</p> +<p>The eternal “Ûm mani panee” formed a very large part of the decoration, being painted +over the walls in every variety of coloured letters. In the inner part of the temple +was a large coloured statue, with eight arms, and two-and-twenty heads. +</p> +<p>The heads were placed in threes, looking every way, in the shape of a pyramid, a single +head crowning the whole.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e2609src" href="#xd30e2609">1</a> One of the hands held a bow, but the implements contained in the others were entirely +Buddhist in character, and to me unknown. +</p> +<p>Behind this figure was a star, with innumerable radiating arms from the centre, while +from the points of the fingers were five other rows of <span class="pageNum" id="pb214">[<a href="#pb214">214</a>]</span>hands, continuing the star-like circle. These were in half relief on the wall, the +figure itself standing out some feet, as if to receive and appropriate the offerings +of corn, flowers, oil, &c., which already began to be laid at its feet. Among the +litter I remarked several tame partridges and “chickore” walking about, probably sacred +to the newly installed divinities. +</p> +<p>The whole scene was a very curious one, and not the less so from being entirely unexpected, +and occurring in such an apparently deserted spot. One might have explored the place +a dozen times without hitting upon the hive of workmen, and, even when discovered, +the excellence of the designs and workmanship in so uncivilized a region, was in itself +remarkable. +</p> +<p>Some of the paintings were of rather startling a character to find occupying places +in the order of church decoration, or indeed any other, but they were not perhaps +more unsuitable than many I have seen in more avowedly civilized temples of worship. +</p> +<p><i>August 27.</i>—We found it very hard, in spite of our day of rest, to turn out early again this +morning. The wind was sharp and cold, and the temperature altogether decidedly changed +from that we had been having. The head of the cooking department being still sick, +proceeded <span class="pageNum" id="pb215">[<a href="#pb215">215</a>]</span>on a pony, and, having a certain air of the Sepoy about him, very grand and imposing +he looked. The road being long and up hill, we breakfasted at a tomb in the pass of +Fotoola, reaching Khurboo about three <span class="asc">P.M.</span> +</p> +<p>In the evening, the comptroller of the household made his appearance upon the cook’s +pony, having from want of tobacco, and other causes, become done up on the road. The +bhistie alone holds out, and seems, as far as servants go, the only hope of the expedition. +To-day’s march has again spoiled F.’s and my own lately amending complexions, the +icy wind and the burning sun together completely blistering our faces. In the evening +we enjoyed a lovely sunset, which tinted the magnificent range of mountains we had +crossed with the most beautiful hues imaginable. +</p> +<p><i>August 28.</i>—Another bitterly cold morning. Got away well considering, and arrived at Waka in +time for a late breakfast in the little native serai, where we had before halted. +Mr. Rajoo and the cook came in with an air of great magnificence. They were each mounted, +and each pony was provided with a well-grown foal, so that the two departments may +be said to have performed their march with four horses. +</p> +<p><i>August 29.</i>—Descended the Waka Valley, <span class="pageNum" id="pb216">[<a href="#pb216">216</a>]</span>leaving Shergol to our left, and thereby saving about a kos and a half of already +explored road. +</p> +<p>Breakfasted under a shady grove of pollards, at the little village of Lotzûm, a cold +refreshing bathe in a snow torrent enabling us to do full justice to our cook’s very +excellent performances in this line. That dignitary was upon his legs again to-day, +and Rajoo convalescent once more. Arriving about three <span class="asc">P.M.</span> at our old ground at Pushkoom, we found the peaceful, quiet-looking little spot we +had left, a scene of the greatest noise and bustle imaginable. We were now received +in due form by the Kardar, and Thanadar of Kurgil, not to mention the Wuzeer, or Vizier +of Pushkoom. This dignitary had formerly been its Rajah, but during Gûlab Singh’s +time was reduced to the post of Vizier, or Prime Minister to nobody in particular, +with a salary of some thirty rupees per annum. Where our last camp was pitched, we +found a circle of natives congregated, some standing, some sitting on their haunches, +but all accompanying to the full extent of their voices—at the same time clapping +time with their hands—the efforts of a band of six or seven artists on the pipe and +tabor, who kept up a quavering strain of what they doubtless believed to be <span class="pageNum" id="pb217">[<a href="#pb217">217</a>]</span>music. To the united melody thus produced, a string of a dozen or so of ladies, in +their full war paint, were decorously going through the monotonous evolutions of a +popular dance, waving their arms about, gesticulating, and at the same time lingering, +as it were, over the ground, and comporting themselves in that staid, yet fitfully +lively way, which seems to be the general style of Eastern dancing. They were attired +most picturesquely, and evidently in their very fullest ball costume, so that we were +fortunate in hitting upon such a good opportunity of seeing their gala manners and +customs. They all wore caps of some kind, either of a small, close-fitting pattern, +like a fez, or in the shape of a large, and very ultra Scotch cap, black, and very +baggy; these were hung round with little silver ornaments, something in the shape +of wine labels for decanters, but studded with turquoises; some of them, also, wore +brooches, generally formed of three cornelians, or turquoises, in a row. The broad +bands of turquoise, worn usually on the forehead, were for the time disrated from +their post of honour, and were suspended instead from the nape of the neck, over a +square piece of stiff cloth, embroidered with strings of red beads. Round the shoulders, +and hanging low, in order to <span class="pageNum" id="pb218">[<a href="#pb218">218</a>]</span>show off the turquoises, lumps of amber, and other family jewels, were the sheepskin +cloaks, inseparable from Thibetian female costume; they were, however, of larger size +than those of every day life, and were gorgeously decorated outside in red and blue, +the <i>fur</i> merely appearing at the edges. Below this, everything merged in some mysterious way +into the variegated sheepskin boots of the country, also decorated with red, blue, +and yellow cloth patterns on the instep. These bore a very conspicuous position in +the dance, as the ladies, contrary to the principles of modern art, were continually +regarding and showing forth the aforesaid boots, as they glided about, and pattered +the time to the well-marked music. The dance was altogether much more pleasing than +the Indian nach, and the ladies, in spite of their savage jewellery, and rude manner, +were much more womanly and respectable than their gauzy, be-ringed and bare-footed +southern rivals. +</p> +<p>After the dance was over, there was a general move to a large, open space of ground, +where the male part of the community were to show off their prowess in the native +games. To my astonishment, some fifty or sixty Thibetians here assembled, each provided +with a veritable hockey stick, not on foot, however, but each man <span class="pageNum" id="pb219">[<a href="#pb219">219</a>]</span>mounted on his own little mountain pony, and prepared to play a downright game of +hockey on horseback. In the centre of the battle-field, between the two “sides,” the +pipes and tabors forming <i>the band</i> took their station, and each time the wooden ball of contention was struck off, set +up a flourish to animate the players. The Thibetians, however, required no such artificial +excitement, but set to work with an energy and spirit, quite refreshing to behold, +and the scene soon became most animated and amusing. The Thibetians, unlike Englishmen +under similar circumstances, appeared to think the more clothes they had on the better, +and in their long woollen coats and trowsers, and their huge sheepskin boots, they +quite overshadowed the wiry little horses they bestrode. Besides having to carry all +this weight, the ponies, most unfairly, came in also for all the <i>shinning</i>; but in spite of these disadvantages, they performed their parts to admiration, dashing +about in the most reckless manner, at the instigation of their riders, and jostling +and knocking against one another in a way that would have disgusted any other pony +in the world. Conspicuous among the crowd of riders, was the thirty-rupee Prime Minister, +who on a most diminutive little animal, charged about in a way he never could <span class="pageNum" id="pb220">[<a href="#pb220">220</a>]</span>have condescended to do, had he had the misfortune to have still remained a Rajah. +Each time that the ball was sent into the goal, the striker, picking it up dexterously, +without dismounting, came again at full speed down the course, the band struck up, +and throwing the ball into the air, he endeavoured to strike it as far as possible +in the direction of the adverse party. Behind him, at best pace, came his own side, +and a desperate collision appeared the inevitable result; however, not a single man +was unhorsed during the entire struggle, nor were there any violent concussions, or +accidents of any kind on either side. +</p> +<p>The men rode very short, and their clumsy boots, stuck through the heavy stirrup-irons, +gave them a ludicrous appearance, which was little indicative of the firm seat and +active part they displayed in the games. After seeing the last of the hockey we pitched +our camp under a grove of trees, and had an audience of the Kardar, with a view to +obtaining information as to our new line of march, which here branches off from the +old route. He, however, was unable to afford us much intelligence, and we were glad +to get rid of him again, with a present of fifteen bullets, which were the objects +he appeared, at the time, to covet most in the world. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb221">[<a href="#pb221">221</a>]</span></p> +<p>To-day a charge was brought against our immaculate bhistie, by the <abbr title="Quartermaster General">Q.M.G.</abbr>, of secreting about half-a-pound of precious white sugar in his sheepskin bag. On +being confronted with the Bench he confessed the crime, improving on it, like most +natives, by declaring that it was for medicine for his little boy at home, who had +sore eyes! The cook, being taken up with the festivities and the turquoises, gave +us our dinner at an unusually fashionable hour. +</p> +<p><i>August 30.</i>—Started for a fresh line of exploration, not without some difficulty and opposition, +in consequence of a desire on the part of the Sipahee and the servants to revisit +Kurgil, with a view to the tobacco supplies supposed to exist there. +</p> +<p>The consequence was that they obtained all sorts of information for us as to the badness +of our proposed road, and the insuperable obstacles to be overcome from unbridged +rivers, snow, &c. Persevering in our plans, however, we were rewarded by finding a +great improvement in the scenery, and, from the novelty of the day’s work, a corresponding +benefit to the spirits of the entire expedition. Passing through a little village +called Menzies, we halted for breakfast within view of the northern face of an entire +new range of snow-capped mountains. Everything gave promise of <span class="pageNum" id="pb222">[<a href="#pb222">222</a>]</span>fine scenery in advance, and about four <span class="asc">P.M.</span> we reached Thambis, a lovely piece of cultivation, surrounded on all sides by monster +rocks, and overlooked by a peak of pure white virgin snow, and here we pitched our +little camp. Entering the village suddenly from the rocky mountain-pass, the little +place looked inexpressibly green and refreshing, and we were soon under the shade +of a row of pleasant pollards, which lined the bank of a stream near which we halted. +As at Pushkoom, the second crops were down, and the people employed in thrashing and +grinding their corn. The new crop consisted principally of pulse of various kinds, +radishes, and a few fields of tobacco, and nestled in pleasant nooks and corners there +were occasional gardens of melons. +</p> +<p>Here we got two fine sheep for one rupee ten annas, or 3<i>s.</i> 3<i>d.,</i> and one of them formed a sumptuous repast for the coolies and retainers, who held +a most convivial banquet round their camp-fires in the evening. The primitive inhabitants +seemed quite unaccustomed to the sight of strangers, and we found on this account, +better and more plentiful supplies procurable, while the assembling of the entire +village to behold the wonderful arrival, formed a pleasant excitement after the day’s +march. +</p> +<p>To-day we had the choice of two roads, one on <span class="pageNum" id="pb223">[<a href="#pb223">223</a>]</span>either side of the torrent; that on the right bank was reported bad, and we accordingly +decided upon the other, but an unexpected obstacle then presented itself in the shape +of a bridge of rope of a very considerable length, crossing the torrent. It was formed +of the twigs of trees, and being in an unpleasantly dilapidated condition, the passage +was a matter of some difficulty if not danger. To save the direct strain a number +of the villagers took up their position to distend the side ropes, and having to get +over the outstretched legs of these officious aids, made the affair a very much more +nervous proceeding than it would otherwise have been. The lowness of the side-ropes, +and the oscillation of the ricketty structure rendered the feat altogether a rather +more amusing performance to the looker on than to the actual performer, and I was +not to reach the opposite shore. On the arrival of the coolies, they all hung back, +and regarded the machine with utter astonishment, and when one of them did essay the +passage, his coat caught in one of the twigs, about half way across, and not having +the use of his hands, he was completely caught as in a trap, and unable either to +advance or retire. In endeavouring to turn, his load nearly upset him, and there he +remained until extricated by one of the villagers. <span class="pageNum" id="pb224">[<a href="#pb224">224</a>]</span>A few of the coolies afterwards got across, and also the servants, with great trepidation, +but the greater number, with the main body of the baggage, including, alas! all the +cooking department, except one load, were afraid to essay the passage, and had to +take to the bad road in despair. The fraction of the commissariat stores which did +reach our side of the water turned out to be plates, knives, forks, and kettles, so +that we had before us no prospect of breakfast until we arrived at a village some +ten kos off, where a more respectable bridge was to re-unite us with our goods and +chattels. +</p> +<p>As promised, the path on our side was pretty good, and led us through several peaceful +little villages, overhung by giant rocks, and dotted with enormous blocks of stone, +which had descended to disturb the harmony of the scene during some convulsion or +commotion in the interior economy of the mountains. Some of these were taken advantage +of by the natives to serve as canvas for their designs, and were carved with effigies +of four-armed divinities, and other <i>sacred</i> subjects. With the exception of these, we saw few traces of Buddhism about us here. +Passing through one of the villages, I bought a medicine-book, or charm, from one +of the natives. It was in Arabic, and was rolled and <span class="pageNum" id="pb225">[<a href="#pb225">225</a>]</span>swathed like a mummy, and worn round his arm. He told me that he had inherited it +from his father, and appeared by no means happy when it was gone. +</p> +<p>Arriving at Sankoo, we found it a well-wooded thinly-inhabited valley, about a kos +and a half in length. Here we had a new specimen of bridge architecture to pass. It +was formed simply enough of two crooked trunks of trees, and, considering the torrent +below, it required a considerable amount of confidence to enable one to traverse it +successfully. From the scarcity of the population, I had great difficulty in finding +anybody to procure me a drink of milk, and when I at last discovered a woman and two +children, she was so thunderstruck that, catching up one of her offspring in her arms +and shrieking to another to follow her, like a hen and chickens swooped at by a hawk, +away they went as fast as their legs would carry them. As this was no satisfaction +to me, however productive it might be of milk to the baby, I began to make signs of +bringing down the family mansion that short distance required to raze it to the ground, +and thus succeeded in calling forth from its interior a half-naked old gentleman out +of his study to my assistance. +</p> +<p>He, however, in an abject way informed me <span class="pageNum" id="pb226">[<a href="#pb226">226</a>]</span>that he had no milk himself, but would introduce me to a friend who had. I accordingly +followed him, “at the point of the stick,” until we reached another mud hovel, where +we found the lady of the house sitting in her porch working, and a supercilious-looking +gentleman reclining at her side. +</p> +<p>Neither of them, however, seemed to pay the slightest attention to my wants, and savage +with thirst, I charged the whole trio, saluting the gentleman at the same time with +an application of my stick. Instead of his jumping up, however, as I expected, I found +that the unfortunate man was kept in his recumbent position by rheumatism, or some +such ailment, and that, in my ignorance of Thibetian, and want of milk and patience +combined, I had committed an atrocious and unwarrantable assault upon an invalid. +Meantime, however, the lady was off like a shot, and soon returned from the dairy +bearing both milk and flour, wherewith to appease the ferocity of her visitor. Having +nearly choked myself with the meal and brought myself round again with the milk, I +gave the invalid full compensation and satisfaction as far as I was able, for my attack, +and again took to the road in search of the bridge which was to re-unite us with our +baggage and our breakfast. <span class="pageNum" id="pb227">[<a href="#pb227">227</a>]</span>Before reaching it, however, I was the unfortunate cause of the entire abandonment +of some half-dozen houses, by merely halting to sit down for a few minutes under a +tree in their vicinity. Whether the inhabitants—who appeared to be all women—thought +that I was going to open trenches and beleaguer them or not I don’t know, but, after +a few minutes, I used to see one of them dart out from behind a mud wall and scuttle +away like a rabbit; then another lady would steal out, carefully lock the door, and +with a child on her back and a couple of olive branches in rear, crawl over the housetop +and out at the back garden, there taking to her heels, and vanishing with her convoy +suddenly from sight. This operation being repeated in other tenements, I found myself +at last left in full and uninterrupted possession of the entire settlement I happened +to be in the vicinity of, including the cocks, hens, firewood, dwelling, places, and +messuages, &c. thereunto appertaining and belonging. When they re-occupied the evacuated +premises I don’t know, but Rajoo, I ascertained, wished them all no future happiness +when, on coming up some time afterwards, he knocked at every door and looked down +every sky-light and chimney in the village without being able to procure as much as +a light to ignite the tobacco <span class="pageNum" id="pb228">[<a href="#pb228">228</a>]</span>in his “hubble bubble.” The coolies having found the path on the right bank of the +torrent quite as bad as prognosticated, we got our breakfast shortly before sunset. +From the proximity of a high rocky mountain, towards the westward of our camp, however, +this was considerably earlier than might be imagined. +</p> +<p><i>September 1.</i>—Commenced our last month but one of leave, by a fine march of some sixteen miles +from Sankoo to Tesroo, or Sooroo, at the foot of the grandest snowy range we had yet +encountered. The path led us over a gigantic fall of rocks, evidently the deposits +formed by successive and destructive avalanches. +</p> +<p>In some parts the traces were quite fresh, the rocks being rent and uptorn in a wonderful +way; and, in one place, we passed the ground where two villages had been entirely +overwhelmed by an avalanche, the entire population of twenty-five having been killed +in the ruins. +</p> +<p>After walking about five or six kos, in the finest and freshest of morning air, we +suddenly opened upon a noble mountain of pure unbroken snow, rearing its head proudly +into the blue sky among a train of courtiers, not so noble, nor so purely, whitely, +clad as itself, but still arrayed in robes of glistening snow. Here the path emerged +from the side of the rugged mountain torrent, and brought us <span class="pageNum" id="pb229">[<a href="#pb229">229</a>]</span>about two kos over fine turfy grass to within some three miles of Sooroo; and here +we halted, under a grove of trees, for breakfast. After this, we had another rope +bridge to pass, which was so little to the taste of the coolies, that they were glad +to get the natives to carry over their loads for them. On crossing we found the Thanadar, +a fine<span id="xd30e2715"></span> old black-muzzled Cashmeeree, with his Moonshee, and a train of eight Sipahees waiting +to receive us, and were conducted in due form to our camping ground. Here the breeze, +as it whistled over our tent, savoured strongly of the snow, and reminded us of the +vicinity of the chilly mountain Grandees we had seen on our road, and which still +presided over us. +</p> +<p>The natives even appeared to feel the cold, though in the winter months they are entirely +snowed up, and ought to be pretty well inured to it by this time. +</p> +<p>The entire valley is, in winter, totally submerged in snow, and a stranger might then +pass over it without knowing there were villages beneath his feet. The bridges are +annually swept away, and so suddenly does the hard weather make its appearance, that +even now the inhabitants were in fear and trembling lest the snows should come down +on them before their <span class="pageNum" id="pb230">[<a href="#pb230">230</a>]</span>crops of wheat and barley were carried for the winter’s use. +</p> +<p>Numbers of fields of corn are still within a week or so of ripening, and, should they +be lost, the chance of winter’s subsistence would be small indeed. +</p> +<p>The appearance of a Thibetian settlement here, as one looks down upon it from a height, +is very much that of an ant-hill. The huts are built on the top of each other, and +generally on mounds, and the people, like ants, are busily and laboriously employed +in laying up their winter store, not only of grain, but also of firewood, and anything +capable of serving in its place, to enable them to struggle through their dreary mouths +of captivity. +</p> +<p>Huge loads of corn and stacks are to be seen moving about, apparently spontaneously, +disappearing through queer holes and corners of the earth, and again appearing on +the housetops, where they are stacked and stored. The bundles of fire-wood being placed +with the branches outside, and neatly ranged, they give the peaceful settlement quite +a bristling and warlike appearance, as if defended by <i lang="fr">chevaux de frise.</i> The Zemindars here pay but two rupees a year to the Maharajah, but it seems a hard +case that such hardly-subsisting people <span class="pageNum" id="pb231">[<a href="#pb231">231</a>]</span>should have to pay anything whatever in such a sterile dreary territory as they possess. +</p> +<p>To-day we came across one solitary mound of the inscribed stones, probably the last, +as we now cross the mountains into Cashmerian territory again. +</p> +<p>To the south of our camp, the road from Ladak through Zanskar joins the valley, and +we half regretted not having risked the chances of that road; however, it was uncertain +whether it was passable, and, as time was valuable, we had but little option in the +matter. +</p> +<p><i>September 2.</i>—Being Sunday, we had a regular rest, explored the country, and made the acquaintance +of the few Thibetians who inhabited the villages. +</p> +<p>Everywhere there were signs of the invasion of Gûlab Singh, some twenty years ago. +Houses in ruins, and forts reduced to dust and rubbish. To replace these latter, a +new fort had been constructed by Rumbeer Singh, in what appears about the worst possible +position in the entire valley to render it of any use whatever. +</p> +<p>The people were busily employed in their fields, pulling and carrying corn, and treading +it out with oxen. A team of six I saw, most uncomfortably performing this work. They +were tied together by the noses, and so small a piece of <span class="pageNum" id="pb232">[<a href="#pb232">232</a>]</span>ground had they to revolve upon, that the innermost animal had to go backward continually, +while the centre ones were regularly jammed together by the outsiders. Two deformed +natives were employed in driving this unhappy thrashing machine. +</p> +<p>In the evening, the Thanadar’s Moonshee came to beg a “razee nama,” or “letter of +satisfaction,” which we gave him, together with a “bukshish,” with which he seemed +well pleased. +</p> +<p><i>September 3.</i>—Got up this morning with a peculiarly cold feel, and started with a fine piercing +breeze in our teeth, blowing directly off the snows. +</p> +<p>Our force was augmented to-day by three goats, as portable dairy, and a party of natives, +with three days’ supplies, also a guide, for our path lay over ground neither much +frequented nor well known. To-day’s has been the grandest scene of the panorama yet +unfolded to us. From the last halt, no inconsiderable height in itself, we mounted +continually towards the huge white masses of snow, which so lately towered above us +in the distance. Passing the remains of mighty avalanches firmly fixed across the +foaming torrent, we ascended the snow valley by the side of a perfect mountain of +ice and snow, the accumulations of, possibly, as many years as the <span class="pageNum" id="pb233">[<a href="#pb233">233</a>]</span>world has existed, which had formed itself immoveably between the mighty mountain’s +sides. The terrific force, with which the masses of snow had come down each season, +to repair the ravages in the frozen monster’s constitution caused by the melting away +of his lower extremities, could be seen by the enormous blocks of stone which rested +on its surface in all directions. In some places fantastic arches of snow were thus +formed, with blocks of rock resting on their summits, and such a distance were these +central accumulations of rocks, and snow, and ice, from the cradles in which they +were reared, that it was impossible to conceive, without the occurrence of an earthquake, +how they could ever have reached their present positions. +</p> +<p>One begins now faintly to understand how it is that the enormous number of torrents +dashing about are kept supplied with icy life. The vast quantities of snow wedged +into solid masses, which must have existed since all time among these mighty mountains, +would serve to feed rivers innumerable, and the supply, as long as rivers and mountains +exist, would appear to be inexhaustible. +</p> +<p>Our path, if path it could be called, was very bad in parts, and so difficult for +the coolies that we were fortunate in getting our breakfast at <span class="pageNum" id="pb234">[<a href="#pb234">234</a>]</span>two <span class="asc">P.M.</span>, and, when we did get it, a snowstorm which came down upon us rather hurried our +<span class="corr" id="xd30e2758" title="Source: procedings">proceedings</span> in discussing it. +</p> +<p>The entire afternoon it continued snowing, and the mountain-tops soon hid themselves +and sulked away among the leaden mists. Our tent was pitched among a low sort of scrub, +the only apology for fire-wood procurable, and here we soon had a fine carpet of fresh +snow, which put the unfortunate coolies, and the servants, and the three goats and +the four ducks, and, in fact, everybody but F. and myself, who now begin to feel thoroughly +<i>at home,</i> to considerable discomfort and inconvenience. +</p> +<p>About a hundred yards from us rises the central mountain of consolidated old snow; +while the monarchs of the place, whose hospitality we have been enjoying, overtopped +our diminutive little worn canvas dwelling with proud and gloomy magnificence, or +hid themselves from us in their ermine mantles, with aristocratic frigidity.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e2768src" href="#xd30e2768">2</a> Before us, the path continues towards the clouds, hemmed in, to all appearance, by +a mighty glacier, which it would seem impossible to avoid in our to-morrow’s route. +To-day we again find the society <span class="pageNum" id="pb235">[<a href="#pb235">235</a>]</span>of the little shrieking marmots, who seemed more than over astonished at what could +bring so strange and motley a group of creatures to disturb the universal quiet of +their solitude. Of all our party the cook, perhaps, here fares the worst. The only +things growing about us are a few plants of rhubarb and the miserable scrub, which +he is obliged to use with all faith as firewood! this being thoroughly wet requires +much coaxing to ignite, and what with the difficulties of his profession, the cold, +the falling snow, and the increased appetites of the <i>Sahibs,</i> the unfortunate head of the cooking department becomes for the time the most intensely +miserable being, black or white, upon the whole face of the globe. +</p> +<p><i>September 4.</i>—Awoke this morning to find the encampment, and its vicinity, covered with snow, and +every prospect of a snow-stormy march before us. The coolies and servants were in +a deplorable state of frozen discomfort, but all kept up their spirits by laughing +at each other’s woes. Just as the sun appeared above the mountains for a few minutes +only, we got under weigh; the tent, however, took some time to disencumber of its +load of frozen snow, and to pack, and all the baggage required excavating previous +to becoming capable of removal. +</p> +<p>The path up to the great glacier above us was <span class="pageNum" id="pb236">[<a href="#pb236">236</a>]</span>wild and barren, it lay over a little plain watered by branching streams, and covered +over with ice and newly fallen snow. Crossing one of these streams, I flushed a solitary +woodcock, the only inhabitant of the wild, and shortly afterwards, our guide, an uncouth +bundle of sheep-skins, slipped over a frozen stone, and came down in the freezing +water with a splash, which, at that hour of the morning, made one shudder all over +involuntarily. The snow-shoes which F. and myself had donned, alone saved us several +times from a similar, uncomfortable fate. Our path, properly speaking, should have +led over the very centre of the glacier; but, in consequence of the numerous crevasses +and the early appearance of the new snow, our guide steadily refused to take us over +the pass by that route. To have taken it without a guide would have been simply impossible; +so we diverged to one side, and, after a sharp ascent of two hours over the snow, +reached a sort of upper basin among the very mountain-tops. Here the scene which opened +on us was wild beyond description. We were now about 18,000 feet above the sea, and +in every direction around us snow hemmed in our view. Under our feet was a plain of +pure white snow; the mountain-tops were snowy <i>hillocks,</i> standing white against the leaden sky; <span class="pageNum" id="pb237">[<a href="#pb237">237</a>]</span>and from above the fleecy snow-flakes fell around us thickly as we trudged along. +The ground was most treacherous, and required great care in traversing, and in one +place, being ahead of the guide, the snow and ice suddenly gave way beneath me, and +with a most unpleasant sensation of uncertainty as to where I might be going, I found +myself standing up to my waist in snow and to my knees in freezing water. +</p> +<p>The guide, almost at the same moment, came to the same end, and it was not without +much floundering and blundering that we both extricated ourselves from our difficulties. +Shortly after this we crossed the highest point of the pass, and here the guide said +his prayers to the presiding “peer,” or divinity of the place, previous to asking +for bukshish; after which he and the sepoy proceeded to smoke a pipe of peace and +tranquillity together. The most trying part of our day’s work we found to be waiting +for breakfast, the coolies being much retarded both by the road and the state of the +weather. We stopped at a sort of temporary abode, where some slight protection from +rain and snow was obtained by the piling up of stones against an eligible rock, and +here, after a long and dreary wait, we breakfasted in a little smoke-dried, draught-inviting +den, the snow all the time <span class="pageNum" id="pb238">[<a href="#pb238">238</a>]</span>coming down in a way not altogether adapted for the enjoyment of such <i>al fresco</i> entertainments. Descending from this, we came to a grassy slope at last, and so by +a most precipitous path to the valley on the southern side of the mountains, down +which a formidable torrent rolled along, dividing itself into a number of channels +not very promising as to our prospects of reaching the opposite side. Here we saw +an enormous flock of sheep grazing on the mountain-side, seeming, as they moved to +and fro in search of pasture, like a floating cloud against the hill. There must have +been several thousands, though accurate computation was out of the question. They +made, however, all the other mountain-flocks we had met, appear as nothing in point +of numbers. +</p> +<p>Arriving at the many-branching river, I was for some time quite at a loss for a ford, +until a native, seeing the dilemma I was in, crossed to my assistance. Finding me +stripping to the work, he insisted on my mounting upon his back, and in an evil moment +I consented. The consequence was that, after passing safely a couple of the streams, +in the deepest spot of the whole torrent, he tottered and fell, and down we both came, +he in the most ungraceful position in which man can fall, and I, luckily, upon my +<span class="pageNum" id="pb239">[<a href="#pb239">239</a>]</span>feet. The sensation, however, on suddenly finding the water rushing past, and one’s +feet slipping about among the clinking stones, was anything but pleasant, and it was +with difficulty that I collected myself together and completed the uncomfortable passage. +The tent being luckily pitched about a mile farther on, the loss of dignity in the +eyes of the bystanders was the only evil result of the misfortune. Towards night it +came on again to snow, and the coolies and retainers had another hard bivouac of it, +while F. and I were obliged to keep all hands at the pumps, or, in other words, to +fasten all available rags and wraps under our canvas, to keep out the soaking wet. +</p> +<p>The cold was very great, and everything gave token of coming winter, and testified +to what the Himalayas can do in the snow and ice line of business when their full +time shall arrive. +</p> +<p><i>September 5.</i>—After a damp night’s bivouac, we awoke to find “<i>a mixture as before</i>” falling—a mixture of rain, sleet, and snow—anything but promising for the comfort +of our day’s march. To avoid having to wait in the wet for breakfast, we sent on the +kitchen and the cook, and, after some time, followed leisurely ourselves. +</p> +<p>An overhanging ledge of rock afforded us some shelter for our meal, and, after warming +<span class="pageNum" id="pb240">[<a href="#pb240">240</a>]</span>and drying ourselves to some extent in this smoke-blackened and not very commodious +little Himalayan hotel, we again pressed on. This was our third day away from either +villages or regular shelter of any sort, and the retainers were naturally anxious +to reach some settlement where they could, for a time at least, protect themselves +from the rain and snow which still continued to fall. The consequence was, they pressed +on some sixteen miles farther at a good pace, to reach a little wooden village at +the head of the Wurdwan valley, and we saw nothing of them on the road. On reaching +our halting-place, however, lo and behold, our unfortunate cook was absent, and nobody +seemed to know anything whatever about him! The cooking things and the larder were +all present, and dinner-hour was at hand; but, alas! the pots and kettles were without +a lord, and the question of where was our dinner began to give way in point of interest +to where was our cook. At the time F. and I left the “cave-hotel,” the whole of the +coolies, Rajoo, the three goats, and the two sheep, had all gone on ahead, as also +the “Invincible One,” the sepoy. +</p> +<p>The bhistie and the missing cook had therefore only remained behind. The road, soon +after leaving, entered a wooded gorge, and, as the valley <span class="pageNum" id="pb241">[<a href="#pb241">241</a>]</span>narrowed, the torrent began to get considerably more rapid and boisterous, as it took +to leaping down the giant rocks, which bound it in between their iron grasp and formed +its only bed. +</p> +<div class="figure p241width" id="p241"><img src="images/p241.jpg" alt="Snow Bridge." width="507" height="417" /></div><p> +</p> +<p>The path was wet and sloppy, and led in parts along the tops of rather dangerous precipices. +Passing cautiously over these, and through wooded paths lined with mosses and wild +flowers, whose perfume scented the entire air, we came upon a curious bridge of well-packed +snow, which spanned the torrent. A treacherous-looking specimen it was, and after +taking its likeness in my pocket-book, I was <span class="pageNum" id="pb242">[<a href="#pb242">242</a>]</span>passing it as a matter of course, when I suddenly heard a shout, and perceived F. +and the mate at the other side of the torrent beckoning me to cross the snow. I accordingly, +with no very good grace and some astonishment, essayed the passage. The snow I found +hard as ice, and not liking the look of its treacherous convex sides, I held my course +straight up the centre, and then descended with great care and deliberation along +the junction of the snow and the mountain. So slippery was the passage, that without +grass shoes I should have been sorry to have attempted it, and, as I halted to regard +the curious structure from a distance, I could not help thinking what a likely spot +it was for a traveller to lose his life without anybody being the wiser, and what +a small chance he would have in the deep and rapid torrent below if he should happen +to slip into its remorseless clutches. The path from this continued its perilous character, +in one place traversing a precipitous face of rock only passable on all fours, beneath +which a thick cover of long grass and weeds hung over the deep, treacherous-looking +pools of the torrent. Having on a pair of grass shoes which had already done one day’s +work, I had broken down about half way, and was now nearly bare-footed. I consequently +did <span class="pageNum" id="pb243">[<a href="#pb243">243</a>]</span>not arrive till nearly the last of the party, and found the tent pitched and fires +lit under a group of large trees, in the wooden village of about a dozen houses, called +Sucknez. It was then getting dusk, and after waiting a reasonable time, we sent out +a party from the village to make search for our missing man, while F. and I, lighting +a fire almost in the tent door, proceeded to cook our own dinner. +</p> +<p>The materials consisted of an unlimited supply of eggs and a box of sardines, hitherto +neglected, and despised among the artistic productions of our lost professor. F. superintended +the frying of the eggs, and produced a conglomeration of some eight of them, which +we pronounced unusually delicious, while I laid the table and looked after the kettle, +for we thought it better, under our bereaved circumstances, to knock tea and dinner +into one meal. Although we had made a longish march, we managed, with the aid of the +kettle and the brandy, to sit up by the light of a roaring pine fire until late, in +the hopes of some news arriving of our searching party. None however came, and we +went to bed <i>hoping</i> that the man had lost his way, and <i>fearing</i> that he had fallen either over the slippery snow-bridge or down one of the many precipices +into the torrent. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb244">[<a href="#pb244">244</a>]</span></p> +<p><i>September 6.</i>—Morning came, but neither news of our cook nor of the party who went out in his search, +and, after breakfast, donning a pair of grass shoes, and provided with some matches +and a small bottle of cherry-brandy, I sallied out with the mate on a voyage of discovery. +Outside the village I met the searching party, who had been out all through the bitter +night, but had found no traces of the object of their search. +</p> +<p>Sending a note to F. to dispatch all the coolies to search, I pressed on to the most +dangerous precipice of our yesterday’s route, and, descending to the torrent, searched +about the grass and weeds at the bottom, but without finding any traces. About this +place I met three lonely travellers, laden with meal, who had come along the entire +path, but had seen no sign of a human creature anywhere. I now gave up our man as +lost, but still held on, in a pouring mixture of sleet and snow, which added considerably +to the gloom of the scene. Every now and then the old mate, who was in very low spirits, +would raise a lugubrious wail at the top of his voice of “Ai Khansaman Jee! Ai Khansaman +Jee?” “Oh, cook of my soul! oh, cook of my soul, where art thou?” at the same time +apparently apostrophizing the deepest whirlpools of the torrent, while the roar of +the waters effectually <span class="pageNum" id="pb245">[<a href="#pb245">245</a>]</span>prevented his magnificent voice from reaching more than a dozen yards from the spot +where he stood. Arriving at the snow-bridge, we examined it closely for signs of footmarks; +it was, however, so hard that it baffled all our efforts. +</p> +<p>At the other side I explored the path which I myself had followed in the first instance. +It, however, only led to a small shelter among the rocks and trees, where the natives +had evidently been in the habit of lighting their fires and halting for the night. +After continuing the search to another snow-bridge above, we returned to our camp, +and made the sepoy issue a notice that twenty rupees reward would be given for the +recovery of our cook, dead or alive, and also that a reward would be given to any +person who should bring us any reliable information about him. At the same time we +sent the notice to the villages below, and spread it as much as possible; but though +twenty rupees would be a small fortune to one of these people, they took but little +interest in the matter, and looked upon the whole thing as “Kismut,” or destiny. “If +it was the will of God that the body should be found, it would be found, if not, where +was the use of looking for it;” and so they took no steps whatever in the matter. +</p> +<p>To add to the probabilities of the snow-bridge <span class="pageNum" id="pb246">[<a href="#pb246">246</a>]</span>having been the cause of our loss, it appeared that a short time before, a coolie +carrying Pushmeena &c. had fallen there, and had never since been heard of; while +another, who had also fallen into the torrent, was only discovered six days afterwards +miles and miles below. +</p> +<p>Having now despatched several searching parties, and received no tidings, we decided +upon retreating to the next village down the valley, and halting there for a few days, +in order to do all we could for our unfortunate man. +</p> +<p><i>September 7.</i>—Started on our march again in heavy sleet and rain, which, higher up the mountains, +took the form of downright snow. The valley descended by a slight incline, through +fir and other forest trees, and about four kos down, we reached another little wooden +city, where, being wet through and through, we were glad to halt, and getting a good +fire lit in one of the log-houses, we set to work to dry our clothes. The house was +reached by a most primitive ladder, made of half the trunk of a tree, hollowed out +into holes for the feet; and, as for the shelter afforded by the tenement, it certainly +kept off the rain, but was not intended to keep out the wind, for the trees which +composed the walls were so far apart, that we could see the face of nature between +them, <span class="pageNum" id="pb247">[<a href="#pb247">247</a>]</span>and, in spite of the open windows, which the architect had thought necessary to provide +the building with, the breeze whistled through the chinks in a way that might be very +pleasant in hot weather, but was not so cheery when snow and rain was the order of +the day. The roofs were the most novel structures I had ever seen. They consisted +merely of rudely split blocks of wood, some five or six feet long, through the upper +ends of which stout pegs had been driven, and, thus suspended, these weighty wooden +tiles overlapped each other, and formed a rude covering, which, unpromising as it +was to outward appearance, answered its purpose sufficiently well, and was at least +quite in keeping with the remainder of the wooden mansion. The people here were something +like the Cashmeerees in appearance, and as we descend into civilization, fowls, and +other hitherto foreign animals begin to show themselves once more. The entire substitution +of wood for mud and stones effectually marks the difference between the Cashmerian +and Thibetian sides of the snowy range we had just crossed. About eight kos from Sucknez +we reached Bragnion, where we found the camp pitched in a most promising position, +having a fine view of the valley below, and the distant ranges of mountains. <span class="pageNum" id="pb248">[<a href="#pb248">248</a>]</span>The torrent here spread itself into several channels, and the valley, widening to +allow it fuller liberty to pursue its joyful existence, descended in a succession +of wooded slopes, one beyond the other, while the eternal snows again bounded the +view in the distance. +</p> +<p>The small portions of comparatively level ground in sight were covered with crops +of the richest colours. One in particular, which the people called “gunhar,” was of +the hue of beetroot, and grew upon its stalk in heavy, gorgeous masses, which added +considerably to the richness of the landscape. The seed of this consists of myriads +of little semi-transparent white grains, very like ant’s eggs, and the taste is something +similar to that of wheat. Above our camp, in a ravine of the hills, is the place where +an officer had been killed by the fall of an avalanche, while out on a shooting expedition. +His companion, a noted sportsman, was saved, by making a tremendous jump; but he himself, +and three shikarees, were swept away, their bodies not being recovered for two months +afterwards. +</p> +<p><i>September 8.</i>—After a cold night, during which I dreamt of our lost cook, we were awoke by a shout +of “Jeeta hy!”—“He is living!” then, “Rusta bhool gya!”—“He lost his way!” <span class="pageNum" id="pb249">[<a href="#pb249">249</a>]</span>and gradually it dawned upon us that the man we had fancied floating down the torrent +a mangled corpse was still actually in the land of the living. +</p> +<p>It appeared that he had been discovered, sitting helplessly upon the mountain side, +by a chance and solitary traveller from Thibet. He had lost his way at the snow-bridge, +and, in trying to retrace his steps, completely got off the only track existing, and +had consequently wandered about among the wood and cover as long as his strength enabled +him. +</p> +<p>The accounts of his movements amid the general excitement were rather conflicting, +but this being the fourth day since his disappearance, and the weather having been +very bad all that time, he must have had a very narrow escape of his life, from the +combined effects of cold and hunger. By the man’s account who found him, he was so +weak, that he was unable to eat the chupatties thrown across to him; and, his rescuer +accordingly leaving with him some meal, and means to make a fire, came on to Sucknez, +and from thence sent out a party to carry him in. Sending a horse and some supplies +for him, we looked forward with some interest to his own account of his most unsought-for +adventures. +</p> +<p>The villagers here, we found, were in the <span class="pageNum" id="pb250">[<a href="#pb250">250</a>]</span>habit of making regular expeditions among their crops at night, to keep off the bears +who prowl about in search of food. Armed with torches, they keep up a tremendous shouting +all through the dark hours, during the time their grain is ripening; and thinking +to get a daylight view of the robbers, I started up the mountain with a native guide +and a rifle. My “sportsman,” however, in spite of many promises, failed in showing +me anything more savage than a preserve of wild raspberry-trees, on which I regaled +with much satisfaction. +</p> +<p>A curious custom in the valley is that of hanging quantities of hay up among the branches +of trees, and its object puzzled me immensely, till my guide informed me that in the +winter the snow lies five and six yards in depth, and that the supplies of hay, which +now look only meant for camel-leopards, are then easily reached by the flocks of sheep +which abound in the valley. At present these were all collected among the mountains, +to be out of the way of the harvest, and this accounts for the enormous herd we had +seen while descending from the pass. +</p> +<p><i>September 9.</i>—Found the sun brightly shining again this morning, and everything looking fresh and +beautiful after the rain. The man who had gone with supplies to the cook returned +with <span class="pageNum" id="pb251">[<a href="#pb251">251</a>]</span>news that he was ill from the effects of cold and fasting, and not able to come on +to us. While at breakfast, my yesterday’s guide brought us in a bowl of raspberries, +which gave pleasant token of the change from the desolate country we had recently +passed through, to the land of plenty we had reached. We also got about eleven seers +(22 lbs.) of virgin honey, for which we paid three rupees. While trying it for breakfast, +a dense swarm of the original proprietors came looking for their stores, and the noise +they made buzzing about, made one fancy they contemplated walking off bodily with +the jars. In the evening our long-lost cook again returned to the bosom of his family. +The poor creature looked regularly worn out. From the combined effects of snow and +fire he was quite lame; his turban, most of his clothes, and all his small possessions, +had vanished while struggling through the thick cover, and he himself had subsisted +for two nights and three days, unsheltered and alone, upon nothing but tobacco and +snow! On losing his way, not thinking of crossing the snow-bridge, he struck right +up the mountain side, in search, first of the path, and afterwards of some hut or +shelter. He then gradually got into thick and almost impervious cover; not a habitation +of any sort was within miles of him, <span class="pageNum" id="pb252">[<a href="#pb252">252</a>]</span>and thus he wandered about for two days and nights. On the third day he descended +again towards the torrent, and, falling and stumbling, reached a rock on its bank, +and there seating himself, was, by the merest chance, seen by the passing traveller +from the other side of the torrent. Making signs that he was starving, this man threw +him some chupatties, and these, wonderful to relate, the cook put in his pocket without +touching. Supposing him to be either too weak, or else, even while starving, too strict +a Hindoo to eat cooked food, his rescuer then threw him across some meal in his turban, +and went off for assistance. The poor creature was rather proud, I think, to find +himself the centre of attraction, as well as of being valued at twenty rupees; and, +as he falteringly related his sorrows and escape from death, the coolies and the rest +of the forces gathered round him, listening with wide open mouths to the wonderful +narrative of his adventures. +</p> +<p><i>September 10.</i>—Took another day’s rest to give our unfortunate cook a little time to recover his +energies. In the evening, the villagers produced us a couple of hives of honey, which +we packed away in earthen jars for transport to the plains. The amount was 39½ seers, +or 79 lbs. for which we paid ten rupees. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb253">[<a href="#pb253">253</a>]</span></p> +<p>The unwillingness of the people to produce their honey the “Invincible One” accounted +for by saying that they were afraid of <i>our</i> not paying them. On inquiry, however, the real cause turned out to be, that the Sepoy +himself was in the habit of exacting a heavy tax on all purchases on our part, and +fear of him, not us, was the true difficulty. +</p> +<p>In the evening, we took a tour through the village, and <i>discoursed,</i> as well as we could, a native Zemindar, whom we found with his household around him, +gathering in his crop of grain, which had been partially destroyed by the early snow. +His land appeared to be about four acres in extent, and for this, he told us, he paid +twelve rupees per annum to the Maharajah of Cashmere. He failed signally, however, +in explaining how he produced that amount by his little farm. The produce of his land +sufficed only to feed himself and his family, and the proceeds of the sale of wool, +belonging to his twelve sheep, he estimated at only two rupees. Besides these, he +possessed a few cows, and appeared as cheery and contented a landholder as I ever +met, in spite of his losses by the snows, and his inability to make out, even by description, +his ten rupees of ground-rent to the Maharajah. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb254">[<a href="#pb254">254</a>]</span></p> +<p>The crops around consisted chiefly of bearded wheat (kanûk), barley (jow), anik, tronba, +and gunhar, all otherwise nameless; and also a small quantity of tobacco, turnips, +and radishes. +</p> +<p><i>September 11.</i>—Having with some difficulty procured a pony for the cook, we started again for Cashmere, +and, after a very steep ascent, through woods of magnificent pine-trees, with every +now-and-then a glorious peep of distant snow-peaks towering in the skies, we reached +the summit of the peer, which separates the territory called Kushtwar from that of +Cashmere. According to the “Invincible” authority, this territory belonged, some sixty +years ago, to an independent Rajah, and, on his death without heirs or successors, +it fell into the clutches of Gûlab Singh.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e2885src" href="#xd30e2885">3</a> +<span class="pageNum" id="pb255">[<a href="#pb255">255</a>]</span></p> +<p>The entire revenue, he stated, was 3,000 rupees. From the heights along our path, +we could see the great glaciers of Dutchen, with its mountain peak of 25,000 feet, +which we had been bound for when the misadventure of our cook interfered with our +plans, and left us not sufficient time to carry out our explorations. +</p> +<p>The summit of the pass we found evidently not long freed from the old snow, while +the new supply lay about in masses all over the mountain. +</p> +<p>Passing over a wild and marshy plain at the summit, we began to descend a lovely pine-clad +valley once more into veritable Cashmere, and, about four <span class="asc">P.M.</span> encamped in a forest-clearing, which, in a very short space of time, was illuminated +by no less than seven roaring campfires. Our own formed the centre, and was formed +of a couple of entire pine-trunks, while the others were ranged about wherever a dry +and prostrate tree presented a favourable basis for a conflagration. In the evening +we enjoyed <span class="pageNum" id="pb256">[<a href="#pb256">256</a>]</span>the warmth of our fires considerably, and discussed hot brandy and water seated on +the very trees which formed our fuel. We were all the more inclined to appreciate +our position, as we felt that we were nearly out of our cold latitudes, and rapidly +descending to the land of dog days once again. +</p> +<p><i>September 12.</i>—Continued our march down the valley, through continued wooded grassy scenes, and +attended by a not too noisy torrent. About a kos from our halting place, we began +again to see the wooden houses, and came to a halt at the picturesque little village +of Nowbogh, where there were two roads branching off to Islamabad. +</p> +<p>Here we had a long wait for breakfast, the servants being overcome by the unaccustomed +civilization and tobacco they met on the road. We accordingly set to work at our own +kitchen fire, and breakfasted without further assistance off fried eggs, rice, and +honey. +</p> +<p>In the evening we found alas! that a fire at our tent door, as we had had hitherto, +was rather too hot to be pleasant. We were here visited by the local prodigy, a rustic +carpenter, who insisted upon making something for us with his rather primitive-looking +turning lathe. His shop I found completely <i>al fresco,</i> between a <span class="pageNum" id="pb257">[<a href="#pb257">257</a>]</span>couple of cows in the centre of a farm-yard, and here he set to work at a walnut cup, +which he turned out creditably enough. The only thing against it was, that his lathe +bored a hole right through the bottom of it, which spoiled the utensil a good deal +for drinking out of. However, not at all taken aback, he plugged it up with a piece +of stick, and at once requested the bukshish, which was the chief part of the performance. +Like most of the Cashmeeries, he complained bitterly of the exactions of the Maharajah’s +government, and stated his own rent to amount to sixteen Huree Singh’s rupees (£1) +per annum. Not seeing how he could accumulate that sum, by even an entire year of +work such as his, I took the liberty of disbelieving his assertion. +</p> +<p><i>September 13.</i>—Started for Kûkûnath. Our path lay over a finely-wooded hill, from which we had a +full view of the Peer Punjal range, now divested considerably of the snows which lay +upon it at the time we started for Thibet. +</p> +<p>Gradually descending into the valley proper, we soon found ourselves once more among +the waving rice-fields and apple-orchards, while the wooden tenements again gave way +to mud and stone, and thatched erections. At a village called Soprû, we found some +iron mines in working order, and passing Kundunath, a pretty <span class="pageNum" id="pb258">[<a href="#pb258">258</a>]</span>little spot adorned with gardens of melons, pumpkins, sunflowers, &c., we shortly +after reached Kûkûnath. Here we encamped close to a collection of bubbling crystal +springs, which, bursting out of the hill side, and spreading into a dozen separate +streams, took their course down to the innumerable fields of rice which they watered +in their passage through the valley. To-day our little camp assumes quite a lively +appearance again, three sheep and several fowls having been added to the farm-yard; +these, together with three surviving ducks of the real original stock, and a wonderful +white Thibetian cock, who owes his life entirely to his highly-cultivated vocal powers, +strut about in front of the tent, and give an air of unwonted respectability to the +scene. Two marches more take us to Islamabad, and it seems altogether about time that +the present expedition should draw to a close. Supplies appear alarmingly low. Sugar +out some days, brandy ditto, European boots worn out long ago, and both F. and myself +living in grass shoes; clothes generally dilapidated, and decidedly dirty; servants +very anxious for more tobacco and society, and everything, in fact, requiring rest +and renovation after our seven weeks’ wanderings. +</p> +<p><i>September 14.</i>—Reached the picturesque little <span class="pageNum" id="pb259">[<a href="#pb259">259</a>]</span>baraduree of Atchabull once more, after a pleasant march from Kûkûnath. Shortly after +taking possession, a fresh arrival of Sahib’s possessions and servants came in, the +latter rather astonished to find the house occupied by such early birds. The owners +turned out to be a colonel of the Bengal Artillery and a brother officer. These were +almost our first acquaintances since starting, so that we were glad enough to fraternize +and hear what was going on in the world. Two of our former boat’s crew here also appeared, +and gave us tidings of our rearguard and baggage. The latter had been ejected from +its lodgings, and taken out for an airing on the river, having been visited by a flood +caused by the melting of the snows shortly after our departure. The weather here began +to be unpleasantly hot again; the disappearance of the snow from the mountains having +removed the principal cause of the usual coolness in the valley. +</p> +<p>Dined with the white men under the spreading sycamores, and enjoyed the luxuries of +bread, beer, and sugar in our tea, to all of which we had now been long unaccustomed. +</p> +<p><i>September 15.</i>—A short march brought us to Islamabad, which we found unusually lively from the assembling +of a host of pilgrims, who <span class="pageNum" id="pb260">[<a href="#pb260">260</a>]</span>had come from far and wide for a religious fair at Mutton. The groups of different +nations, and their manners and customs while bivouacking, were most picturesque, and +served to amuse and interest us for the entire day. +</p> +<p><i>September 16.</i>—Started early by boat, in the fond expectation of reaching Sirinugger in the evening. +Dusk, however, found us no farther than the ruins of Wentipore, and we only reached +the capital at daylight in the morning. Finding our old quarters vacant, we were soon +located once more under a roof; and, fifty days having elapsed since we had seen either +letter or paper, we lost no time in applying to the postal authorities for our expected +accumulations and arrears of correspondence. This resulted in the production of twenty-seven +epistles and eleven papers, which we carried home triumphantly in our boat, and proceeded +forthwith to devour in that ravenous fashion only known and appreciated by such as +have ever undergone a similar literary fast. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb261">[<a href="#pb261">261</a>]</span></p> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep" /> +<div id="xd30e2609"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e2609src">1</a></span> The origin of this divinity is probably derived from the legend of Khoutoukhtou, which +will be found in <a href="#appb">Appendix B</a>. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e2609src" title="Return to note 1 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e2768"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e2768src">2</a></span> The most remarkable of these were “Ser” and “Mer,” otherwise called “Nanoo” and “Kanoo;” +respectively 23,407 and 23,264 feet above the level of the sea. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e2768src" title="Return to note 2 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e2885"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e2885src">3</a></span> The true version of the story appears to be that Gûlab Singh had quarrelled with the +Rajah of Cashmere, his rightful master, and entered into the service of the Rajah +of Kushtwar. After about three years, hearing that Runjeet Singh was preparing an +expedition against Cashmere, he went to him and offered his services. Being accepted, +he was successful against his old enemy, and took possession of the country for Runjeet +Singh; after which he wrote to the Rajah of Kushtwar, falsely telling him that the +Maharajah was going to send a force against him also. The Rajah and his people prepared +for resistance, and Gûlab Singh then forged a paper containing an invitation from +the chief men in the army of Kushtwar to the Maharajah, encouraging him to come forward +and invade the country. +</p> +<p class="footnote cont">This paper Gûlab then forwarded to the Rajah himself, with a note, in which he told +him that it was folly to talk of resistance <span class="pageNum" id="pb255n">[<a href="#pb255n">255</a>]</span>when the chief men of his country were opposed to him. The Rajah, who had been in +possession of Kushtwar for twenty-seven years, was completely deceived, and repaired, +by invitation, with only a few followers to Gûlab’s camp. Here he was kept for three +months upon an allowance of 10<i>l.</i> a-day, which was afterwards reduced to 10<i>s.,</i> and Gûlab Singh in the meantime took possession of Kushtwar without opposition. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e2885src" title="Return to note 3 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div id="pt7" class="div0 part"> +<h2 class="label">Part VII.</h2> +<h2 class="main">Last Days of Travel.</h2> +<p class="first"><i>September 30.</i>—For the last fifteen days we have been living once more the life of <i>otium cum dignitate</i> common to the travelling Englishman in Cashmere. Basking in the sun, taking the daily +row upon the river, eating fruit, and buying trash in the city, have been our principal +occupations and amusements. +</p> +<p>About the 20th of the month an English general officer arrived, and was received with +all honours, including a salute of heavy ordnance, which was happily unattended with +loss of life or limb. A dance and grand review were also given in his honour; so that +the <span class="pageNum" id="pb262">[<a href="#pb262">262</a>]</span>arrival made quite a stir, and came fairly under the head of <i>an event</i> in the valley. At the review the Maharajah was decorated with unusual grandeur, and +as he and his guest rode down the line together—the latter in a plain blue frock, +and the other in all his cloth of gold and jewelled splendour—never were simplicity +and display more strikingly placed in contrast. +</p> +<p>The general’s medals and crosses, however, appeared to have a greater interest and +importance in the Maharajah’s eyes than their intrinsic value could have commanded +for them, and, during the marching past of “The Army,” he kept continually poking +his finger at them, and pointing them out to the courtiers who were gathered about +his chair. The general, at the same time, was employed in explaining how many thousands +the British Army consisted of, and how vastly superior it was to all other armies +whatever, not even making an exception (as I thought he might fairly have done) in +favour of the “Invincible Forces,” then and there manfully throwing out their feet +before him to the martial strains of “Home, sweet Home!” After the last of the army +had marched past, the general, with an energy little appreciated by his friends in +cloth of gold, jumped up, and, <span class="pageNum" id="pb263">[<a href="#pb263">263</a>]</span>begging permission to manœuvre the troops himself, went off to throw the unfortunate +colonel commanding into a state of extreme consternation, and to frighten the few +English words of command he was possessed of, fairly out of his head. +</p> +<p>In the early mornings my chief amusement had been to watch the colonel in question +preparing both himself and his troops for the approaching spectacle, and very sensibly +he went through the performance. He was arrayed on these occasions in the full dress +of a green velvet dressing-gown, worn in the style affected by the <i>ferocious ruffian</i> in small theatres, and, in place of a bugler, was accompanied by a pipe-bearer. This +aide followed him over the battle-field, wherever the exigencies of the service required, +and supplied him with whiffs of the fragrant weed to compose his nerves at intervals +during the action. Their united efforts, however, although slightly irregular in appearance, +were attended with full success, for, with the help of ten rounds of ammunition, the +troops, even when handed over to the tender mercies of the “Foreign General” got through +their ordeal very creditably; and, as they shot nobody, and did nothing more irregular +than losing their shoes upon the field, the event passed off <span class="pageNum" id="pb264">[<a href="#pb264">264</a>]</span>smoothly and pleasantly, and to the satisfaction of all concerned. +</p> +<p>Here we met an old Sikh acquaintance of the road, who informed me that he had taken +service under the Maharajah. Next day he paid us a visit, by appointment, and expressed +himself highly delighted with his entertainment; smoking and drinking, however, not +being lawful in society to the Sikhs, we could do but little in the character of hosts, +beyond letting him talk away to his heart’s content, and with as little interruption +as possible. He told us his entire life and history, in the worst of English, and +we affected to understand the whole of the narration, which, perhaps, was as much +as any host could have been called upon to do under the circumstances. The old gentleman’s +dress was extremely gorgeous, and contrasted rather strongly with our own woollen +shooting-jackets and general exterior. He wore a turban of purest white, entwined +in endless folds round a light green skull-cap; his waistcoat was of green velvet, +embroidered, and richly bordered with gold. His pyjamas—striped silk of the brightest +hue—fitted his little legs as tightly as needle and thread could make them, and his +lady-like feet were encased in cotton socks and gold embroidered slippers. Over all +this he wore a <span class="pageNum" id="pb265">[<a href="#pb265">265</a>]</span>green and gold silk scarf of voluminous proportions, and of that comprehensive character +which an Eastern scarf, and in Eastern hands, alone is capable of assuming. Round +his wrists were massive gold bracelets, but of other trinkets he had few; and the +enormous ear-rings, so usually worn by his race, were not among them. His long grey +beard and almost white moustache were, perhaps, the only ornaments his fine old head +required. The last time I had seen him, he was arrayed entirely in scarlet and gold, +and he had, no doubt, a large reserve of dresses and jewellery; but, in spite of his +tinsel and gilding, he appeared a perfect little Eastern gentleman, and the only one +I had met as yet in our travels. After expressing a great desire to open a correspondence +with us, which, considering the small number of topics we possessed in common, was +rather a strange wish, the old gentleman and his retinue took their leave, and we +had seen the last of Beer <span class="corr" id="xd30e2970" title="Source: Sing">Singh</span> Bahadûr and his glorious apparel. +</p> +<p><i>October 1.</i>—Busily employed to-day in packing away our possessions, and making final arrangements +for again taking the road. +</p> +<p>Paid a visit to Saifula Baba, the shawl merchant, whose dignity was considerably upset +by a cold in his head, and bought a few specimens <span class="pageNum" id="pb266">[<a href="#pb266">266</a>]</span>of his trade, though not sufficient to raise his spirits entirely above the influenza. +The approaching winter, and the evacuation of the territory by the principal rupee-spending +community, seemed a source of great unhappiness to the sun and silver-loving natives. +</p> +<p>Their houses seem but badly adapted to keep out cold, and their efforts at heating +them are frequently attended by the burning down of a whole nest of their wooden habitations. +</p> +<p>Their chief means of artificial warmth seems to be an earthenware jar covered with +basket-work, which each native possesses and carries about with him wherever he goes. +</p> +<div class="figure p266width" id="p266"><img src="images/p266.jpg" alt="Kangree." width="309" height="207" /></div><p> +</p> +<p>This, which is called a Kangree, is filled with charcoal, and, as the Cashmeerians +squat down upon the ground, they tuck it under their long clothes, where, until they +again rise, it remains hidden from sight, and forms a hot-air chamber <span class="pageNum" id="pb267">[<a href="#pb267">267</a>]</span>under their garments.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e2991src" href="#xd30e2991">1</a> Among other artists I discovered a native painter, rather an uncommon trade in these +parts, from whom I obtained some original designs, illustrating, with uncommon brilliancy, +the very common ceremonies of Hindoo and Mahomedan Shadees, or marriage processions, +and other manners and customs of native life. +</p> +<p>After getting together everything we required for the road, and clearing out the whole +of our possessions, much to the inconvenience of several large standing armies of +fleas, we finally took our departure in two boats, manned by twelve boatmen, and started +for Baramoula, on the road to Muree and the plains. +</p> +<p><i>October 2.</i>—After making but little progress during the night, we discovered in the morning that +our boats were rather too large for the river, in its present weakly and reduced state. +Every ten minutes we found ourselves aground upon the sand and mud, and the cooking +boat behind us followed our example, while the river ahead showed no prospect whatever +of deepening. <span class="pageNum" id="pb268">[<a href="#pb268">268</a>]</span>The Manjees, under the circumstances performed wonders in the nautical manœuvring +line. Jumping overboard incessantly, they called upon Peer Dustgeer, their favourite +patron saint, to aid them in their difficulties, and shrieked and screamed till the +whole place resounded with their cries. +</p> +<p>Sometimes the saints were stony-hearted, probably not being in a humour to be shouted +at, and then the entire body of silky-skinned darkies would set to work, laughing +and shouting, to clear away the bar of sand. Their paddles forming in this operation, +very effective substitutes for spades and shovels, with much difficulty we reached +the lake, and about nine o’clock arrived at Baramoula. +</p> +<div class="figure p268width" id="p268"><img src="images/p268.jpg" alt="Seventh Bridge, Sirinugger." width="720" height="442" /><p class="figureHead">Seventh Bridge, Sirinugger.</p> +</div><p> +</p> +<p>Here the river ceases to be navigable, and abandons itself for a short time to irregular +and wanton habits, before finally sowing its wild mountain oats, and becoming the +staid and sedate Jhelum of the Plains. Unlike some rivers, the Jhelum contains more +water in the middle of summer than at other times. Its principal resources are the +snows, and these mighty masses are so wrapped up in their own frigid magnificence +that it requires a good deal of warm persuasion from the sun to melt their icy hearts +to tears. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb269">[<a href="#pb269">269</a>]</span></p> +<p><i>October 3.</i>—Took the road once more, and started for Muree. Our train was increased by a couple +of volunteer native travellers, who were glad of our society in order that they might +get clear of the Maharajah’s dominions with as little questioning as possible. Our +coolies numbered twenty-six, so that altogether our forces now reached to thirty-eight. +After a fine march, we halted at Nowshera, where the dashing river afforded us an +exciting swim before breakfast. Coming out of the water, however, I had the ill luck +to slip upon a treacherous rock, and, falling heavily on my side, and so over into +the rapid stream, had some difficulty in fishing myself out again, and was very near +taking an unpleasantly short cut to the Plains. In the evening, when the cook came +to inspect the larder for dinner, it was discovered, that, with an unusual want of +presence of mind, a newly-killed sheep had been left by mistake in the boats for the +benefit of the already overpaid boatmen. This was the third animal we had lost, from +various causes, during our travels, and the mishap most seriously affected the success +of our dinner arrangements for the day. +</p> +<p><i>October 4.</i>—Found great difficulty in getting up this morning after my fall, and still more in +<span class="pageNum" id="pb270">[<a href="#pb270">270</a>]</span>walking three miles, which I had to do before finding a pony. The view was beautiful +the whole way; but we had been so gorged with scenery of all sorts and kinds, that +rugged passes, shady dells, waterfalls, &c., however precious they may become in future +recollection, were almost thrown away upon us for the time being. Breakfasted under +the pine trees, near an ancient temple, and halted at Uree, where there was a baraduree +for travellers. Except, however, to very dirty travellers indeed, it would be of little +use. While descending a very steep part of the road, my saddle suddenly slipped over +the pony’s round little carcase on to his neck, and, <i lang="la">nolens volens,</i> I came to the ground, the pony remaining in a position very nearly perpendicular, +with his tail towards the heavens and his head between my legs, in which predicament +he luckily remained perfectly quiet, until the bhistie, coming up behind, set us both +on our proper extremities once more. +</p> +<p><i>October 5.</i>—Started for Chukothee, and thinking, in an evil moment, to walk off the effects of +my late mishap, I essayed the fifteen miles on foot. +</p> +<p>Long before reaching half way, however, I began to look about for anything in the +shape of a pony, that might appear in sight; but, none <span class="pageNum" id="pb271">[<a href="#pb271">271</a>]</span>being forthcoming, I was obliged to finish as I had begun, and at last reached our +destination, a snug little village, buried in fields of yellow rice upon the hill-side. +On the way, I fell in with a fine old Mussulman Zemindar, trudging along on his return +to Delhi, from paying a visit to Sirinugger. +</p> +<p>Being an unusually talkative old gentleman, we fraternized by the way, and he told +me that he had been to see the civil commissioner of his district, now acting as commissioner +in the valley, to make his salaam, relative to a “jageer,” or Government grant of +certain villages to the amount of some three thousand rupees per annum, which he had +succeeded in obtaining on account of his loyalty during the recent mutiny. +</p> +<p>Of this three thousand rupees, it appeared that only one thousand would come into +his own pocket, the remainder being payable as rent, &c. to Government. +</p> +<p>His son had also a jageer of twelve thousand rupees, so that both he and his family +were loyal and well to do in the world. His ideas of Cashmere were rather amusing. +He appeared to think it a miserable spot enough, compared to his own land, and the +only advantage he could hit upon, was, in my estimation, quite the <span class="pageNum" id="pb272">[<a href="#pb272">272</a>]</span>reverse, viz: <i>that Sirinugger was very hot in the middle of summer.</i> +</p> +<p>The rice he had a supreme contempt for. It was not to be compared with the Indian +rice, and the Cashmeeries he pooh-poohed, as being no judges whatever of its qualities, +and, in fact; not fit to eat rice at all. He seemed quite unable to understand my +walking when I could ride; or, indeed, why I should leave such a charming country +as India to be uncomfortable in Cashmere, without even having any jageer business +to transact as an excuse. +</p> +<p>Our coolies, being an unusually miserable crew, we got breakfast about two <span class="asc">P.M.</span> To-day our tent lamp finished its erratic life, according to the Dhobie’s account, +by self-destruction! That good for nothing piece of charcoal had, however, doubtless +dashed the solid cut-glass globe, which formed the chief glory of the instrument, +against a rock, while thinking of his hubble bubble, and his little blackamoors at +home. +</p> +<p>The lamp had got over all the difficulties of the road from Lahore to Ladak and back, +and had been quite a peep-show to half the natives of Thibet, who were never tired +of regarding their multiplied countenances in the numerous cut circles of the glass +shade, so that we felt <span class="pageNum" id="pb273">[<a href="#pb273">273</a>]</span>quite grieved at its melancholy loss. Our water bottle also to-day finished its existence, +and the table came into camp a bundle of sticks; so that everything seemed to betoken +the approaching dissolution of the expedition. The farm-yard consists of five ducks, +all strangers, and a pet sheep, and the khiltas look haggard and dilapidated in the +extreme. The musical cock, alone, of old friends still survives, but he appears in +weak health, and his constitution is evidently undermined by the changes of climate +it has undergone. We were here worried by a party of strolling mountebanks from the +Punjab, who persisted in horrifying us by making two young girls and three boys, all +apparently entirely destitute of bones, stand upon their heads, and go through similar +performances on the grass. The girl actually pattered a measure with her feet upon +the back of her head, and the proprietors seemed utterly unable to account for our +apathetic disregard of so extremely talented and interesting a performance. +</p> +<p><i>October 6.</i>—Left for Hutteian, about fifteen miles off. Ponies being scarce, I had to walk part +of the way; but the sepoy, pitching by chance upon our friends, the Punjabees, triumphantly +carried off a stout little animal of theirs for my use. Before mounting, however, +I was mobbed <span class="pageNum" id="pb274">[<a href="#pb274">274</a>]</span>by the tumbling family, <i>en masse,</i> who went on their knees in their solicitations to be exempt from the seizure of their +property. Finding me obdurate in retaining the pony at a fair valuation, with “the +army” to bear me out, they proceeded to diplomatic measures to gain their end. First, +a very small child, choosing a stony place in the path, suddenly stood upon her head, +and proceeded to form black knots with her body. Finding that this only caused me +to threaten her father with a stick, they produced a blind girl, who threw herself +half naked at my feet and cried by order. The poor creature had lost her sight by +the small-pox, and I had remarked her the day before patiently toiling over rocks +and broken paths with one little child in her arms, and another half leading, half +obstructing her, endeavouring to guide her footsteps down the rocks. She, however, +got no immediate benefit from the pony of contention; so, giving her some money to +console her in her forced misery, I still remained inexorable. After this, the encampment +broke up, with all its pots and pans, cows and fowl, &c. and took to the road, leaving +me in undisturbed possession of my new conveyance. The weather began to astonish us +a little to-day, by a renewed accession of October heat. Still the climate was delightful. +Morning <span class="pageNum" id="pb275">[<a href="#pb275">275</a>]</span>and evenings always cool, and sometimes cold, and a bright cheery blue invariably +over head, while a refreshing breeze made music through the pine trees, and waved +the golden ears of rice. +</p> +<p>Encamped under a spreading sycamore, at the junction of two mountain streams. To-day +a new order of bridge appeared, consisting merely of a single rope, the passengers +being tugged across in a basket. From its appearance it was rather a matter of congratulation +that we were not called upon to cross it. +</p> +<p><i>October 7.</i>—Being Sunday, we made a halt, and enjoyed a refreshing bathe in the stream, and a +rest from the toils of the road. +</p> +<p><i>October 8.</i>—Left “Hutteian,” and, winding along the valley, arrived, by a steep ascent, at Chukar, +a little village boasting a fort and a small nest of Sepoys. It also owned a curiously +<i>dirty,</i> and consequently <i>saintly</i> Fukeer, <span class="corr" id="xd30e3081" title="Source: who">whom</span> we found sitting bolt upright, newly decorated with ashes, and with an extremely +florid collection of bulls, demons, &c. painted about the den he occupied. On the +road I again picked up the old Mussulman, who seemed delighted to chat, and gave me +an account of the part he had played in the mutiny. +</p> +<p>He appeared frequently to have warned his Commissioner that an outbreak was about +to <span class="pageNum" id="pb276">[<a href="#pb276">276</a>]</span>take place, but without his crediting the story; and when it actually did occur, the +latter fled from his station at Lahore, and took shelter with a friendly Risaldar +until the storm should blow over. From thence he sent for the old gentleman, my informant, +and “Imam Buksh” forthwith mounted his camel and came with five and twenty armed followers +to his assistance. While here, a party of rebels came searching for English, and Mr. +Buksh narrated how he went forth to meet them, and proclaimed, that they might kill +the Englishman if they would, but must first dispose not only of himself, but also +of his five and twenty followers. Upon this they abused him, and asked him, “What +sort of a Mussulman he called himself?” and denounced him as a “Feringee,” or foreigner. +</p> +<p>The rebels, however, finally went off, and the Commissioner and his family, by Imam +Buksh’s further assistance, succeeded in escaping all the dangers of the times. For +this service it was that the old gentleman had just received his jageer of two villages, +now some years after the occurrence of the events. +</p> +<p>He appeared to think very little of the Maharajah’s rule, and was of opinion that +the people were miserably oppressed, paying, by his account, two thirds of the produce +of their lands to <span class="pageNum" id="pb277">[<a href="#pb277">277</a>]</span>the Government. This was in kind, but, where the revenue was taken in coin, a produce +of about fourteen pounds of grain was subject to a tax of two rupees. On the subject +of the cause of the mutiny in India, he said that greased cartridges certainly had +nothing to do with it; for the rest, why, “It was the will of God, and so it happened.” +To induce him to argue on the <i>possibility</i> of the mutiny having been successful, I found to be out of the question. “It was +the power of God which had prevented the rebels from gaining over us, and, in the +name of the Holy Prophet and the twelve Imams, how then could it have been otherwise?” +As to the probability, however, of there being another mutiny, he admitted that he +thought there would be one, but that, as long as we maintained justice, no other power +could hold the country against us. On my asking him if we did not maintain justice +in the land, he said no, and adduced the fact that in every case brought before the +courts an enormous amount of bribery goes on among the Rishtidars, and other understrappers, +whereby the man with most money wins his cause. No Englishman, he thought, could take +a bribe, but he seemed to be under the impression that those in authority were aware +of the system being carried on by those beneath them. He admitted that he <span class="pageNum" id="pb278">[<a href="#pb278">278</a>]</span>knew of one native who would not take a bribe! and dwelt largely on the subject, as +if it were a wonderful fact, which I have no doubt it was. +</p> +<p>In the evening we presented Mr. Imam Buksh with some of our sheep, which delighted +his heart immensely, and he spent the entire evening in cooking and eating it, together +with a perfect mountain of chupatties, which he manufactured with great care and deliberation. +</p> +<p><i>October 9.</i>—Left our camp very early, and had a sharp ascent up the mountains. A considerable +descent again, brought us to the village of Mehra, where we pitched our tents, once +more within sight of the territories of India. +</p> +<p><i>October 10.</i>—Marched into Dunna, our last halting-place in Cashmere. It is situated nearly at +the summit of the frontier range of hills, and commanded a most extensive view of +the mountains of Cashmere and Cabul, besides those on the Indian side. +</p> +<p><i>October 11.</i>—Took a last fond glance towards “the valley,” and descended by a very steep and difficult +path to the river Jhelum, which forms the boundary between the two territories. Here +a couple of queerly-shaped, rudely-constructed boats, with two huge oars apiece, one +astern and one at the side, formed <span class="pageNum" id="pb279">[<a href="#pb279">279</a>]</span>the traveller’s flying bridge. Into one of these the whole of our possessions and +coolies, &c. were stowed, and we commenced the passage of the stream. +</p> +<p>This we managed by, in the first instance, coasting up the bank for several hundred +yards, and then striking boldly into the current; and it was amusing to see our well-crammed +boat suddenly drawn into the rapid stream and whisked and whirled about like a straw, +while a nice calculation on the part of the skipper, and a good deal of rowing and +shouting on that of the sailors, enabled us to touch the opposite shore not very far +below the point from which we had started. One last lingering look at Cashmerian ground, +a step over the side, and we were once more standing upon the territories of Queen +Victoria, and in the burning land of India—happily, however, still six days’ journey +from the Plains. +</p> +<p><i>October 12.</i>—Marched up the spur of the Muree Hill to Dewul, where we found a room in a mud fort +converted into a halting-place for travellers, reached by a series of break-neck ladders, +and looking very much like a cell in a prison, with its two chairs and clumsy wooden +table. Here we found a little amusement in the arrival of the Chota Sahib, or “small +gentleman,”<span class="pageNum" id="pb280">[<a href="#pb280">280</a>]</span>—otherwise the Assistant Civil Commissioner of the district,—to review the fort and +its dependencies. On the first tidings of his approach, the Thanadar immediately turned +out the entire garrison, consisting of twelve military policemen, called “Burqundaz,” +or “Flashers of lightning!” These soon appeared in their full dress of crimson turbans +and yellow tights, and, shouldering their “flint-locks,” proceeded to perform a series +of intricate evolutions, by way of practice for the rapidly-approaching inspection. +When the great little man did arrive, there was, we thought, a good deal of irregularity +among the troops, such as laughing in the ranks and treading on toes, &c. However, +the only point the inspecting officer dwelt upon was the absence of uniformity in +dress, caused by the deficiency of two pairs of yellow tights among the lightning +flashers, otherwise he appeared perfectly satisfied, and all went off well. After +his review he invited himself to our dinner-party, and honoured our repast with the +further addition of a kid stew. He turned out to be one of the ex-Company’s officers, +a subaltern of eighteen years’ service, <i>fifteen</i> of which had been spent away from his regiment on the staff. He was with his corps, +however, when it mutinied, and escaped without much difficulty. The unfortunate <span class="pageNum" id="pb281">[<a href="#pb281">281</a>]</span>colonel of the regiment, finding that none of his men would shoot him, had done so +with his own hand. He gave it as his opinion that the cartridges <i>were</i> the cause of the mutiny; but allowed that his regiment was in a bad state of discipline +some time before, and that all the native corps were known to be disaffected years +before the event occurred, both by the officers present and those absent upon staff +employ. Altogether, after the Chota Sahib had thoroughly discussed both the mutiny +and the dinner, we were left under the impression that there was quite sufficient +cause for the disaffection of the Bengal army without ever arriving at the vexed question +of greased cartridges at all. +</p> +<p><i>October 13.</i>—Marched early into the Hill Station of Muree. Not being yet quite in walking trim, +I had pressed a mule into the service, who carried me in good style as far as the +entrance to the town. Here, however, he seemed suddenly to remember that we had each +a character to support, and, stopping short, he utterly refused to budge another step. +Not being willing even to be led, I finally abandoned him to his own devices, and +walked on to the Commandant’s bungalow, where I found my companion already hospitably +received, and comfortably <span class="pageNum" id="pb282">[<a href="#pb282">282</a>]</span>seated at breakfast, discussing kidneys and beefsteaks, and such like unwonted delicacies +of the Muree season. +</p> +<p>After getting somewhat over the novelty and discomfort of being again in a house with +doors and glass windows, and other inconveniences, we sallied out to inspect the station. +</p> +<p>Like its <i>confrères</i> of the Hills—Simla, Kussowlie, &c. Muree was a prettily-situated little settlement, +with houses scattered about entirely according to the freaks and fancies of the owners, +and with utter disregard of all system whatever. The Mall was a fine one, and its +gaily-dressed frequenters, in jhampans and palkees, &c. were of the unmistakeable +stamp of Anglo India in the Hills. Two or three of the ladies, however, were bold +enough to walk, and looked none the worse for being divorced from their almost inseparable +vehicles, and unattended by their <span class="corr" id="xd30e3132" title="Source: motly">motley</span> crowd of red, and green, and variegated bearers. +</p> +<p><i>October 14.</i>—Spent a quiet day among the hospitalities of Muree, and became gradually accustomed +to <i>city life.</i> Going to church seemed rather a strange process, and the building itself was but +a bad exchange for the grander temples which we had frequented for so many Sundays. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb283">[<a href="#pb283">283</a>]</span></p> +<p><i>October 15.</i>—Laid our dak by doolie to Lahore, and, with our hospitable entertainer to guide us, +started at five <span class="asc">P.M.</span> by a short cut, to meet our new conveyances. +</p> +<p>Reaching the main road, we once more packed ourselves away in our boxes, and, the +sun soon setting his last for us upon the Cashmere mountains, left us to make our +way down to the miserable plains as fast as the flaring and spluttering light of a +couple of pine torches would allow our bearers to patter along. +</p> +<p>From this, until we reach Lahore, we are accompanied by an incessant shuffle shuffle +of naked feet through the dusty road; jabbering and shouting of blacks, flickering +of torches, bumping of patched and straining doolies against mounds of earth, glimpses +of shining naked bodies, streaming with perspiration, as they flit about, and the +whole enveloped in dense and suffocating clouds of dust, which penetrate everything +and everywhere, and soon become, in fact, a part of one’s living breathing existence; +occasionally, outstripping our procession, a vision passes, like the glimmer of a +white strip of linen, a stick, and a black and polished body, it rushes by like the +wind, and disappears in the gloom of dust and night, and, in a second, her Majesty’s +mail has passed us on the road! As we near <span class="pageNum" id="pb284">[<a href="#pb284">284</a>]</span>the plains this vision undergoes a slight change, and takes the form of an apparition +of two wild horses tearing away with a red and almost body-less cart; this also goes +by like a flash, but gives more notice of its coming, and our torches, for a second, +light up the figure of a wild huntsman, with red and streaming turban, who sits behind +the steeds and blows a defiant blast at us as he also vanishes into the darkness. +About seven miles from Muree, we halted for dinner, and made renewed acquaintance +with that interesting object—the Indian roadside chicken. +</p> +<p><i>October 16.</i>—Arrived early at Rawul Pindee, and breakfasted at seven, apparently off guttapercha +and extract of sloe leaves. On again immediately, and reached Gugerkhan bungalow at +seven <span class="asc">P.M.</span> hot, apoplectic, and saturated with dust. +</p> +<p>The room smells thoroughly of the plains; an odour, as it were, of punkhas, mosquitoes, +and mustiness, not to be found elsewhere, and entirely unexplainable to uninitiated +sufferers. +</p> +<p>The chicken, whose “fate had been accomplished,” died as we entered the yard, and +was on the table in the fashion of a warm <i>spread eagle</i> in fifteen minutes! After this delicacy is duly discussed, the doolies are emptied +of dust, the bedding laid down, and jolt, jolt, creak, <span class="pageNum" id="pb285">[<a href="#pb285">285</a>]</span>creak, grunt, grunt, on we go again, until sleep good-naturedly comes to make us oblivious +of all things. The kahars, or bearers, however, take a different view of life, and +at every relief a crowd of sniggering darkies assemble, on both sides, with applications +for bukshish. At first one hears, “Sahib, Sahib!” in a deprecating tone of voice, +mindful of sudden wakings of former Sahibs, sticks, and consequent sore backs, then +<span class="corr" id="xd30e3166" title="Source: piu">più</span> forte, “Sahib!” crescendo, “Sahib, Sahib!” and then at last, in a burst of harmony, +“Sahib pûrana Baira kûtch bukshish mil jawe?”<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e3169src" href="#xd30e3169">2</a> and the miserable doolie traveller, who has been, probably, feigning sleep in sulky +savageness for the last ten minutes, makes a sudden dive through the curtains with +a stick, an exclamation is heard very like swearing, only in a foreign language, and +the troop of applicants vanish like a shot, keeping up, however, a yelping of Sahibs, +and Pûrana Bairas, and Bukshishs, until the new bearers get fairly under weigh, and +have carried their loads beyond hearing. None but those who have been <span class="corr" id="xd30e3172" title="Source: woke">woken</span> up in this manner from a comfortable state of unconsciousness, to the full realities +of doolie travelling in Indian heat and dust, can form an idea of the trial it is +to one’s temper; and, from my own feelings, together with <span class="pageNum" id="pb286">[<a href="#pb286">286</a>]</span>the sounds I hear from my companion’s direction, I can testify as to the relief that +the use of foreign expletives affords under the affliction. +</p> +<p><i>October 17.</i>—Arrived at Jhelum about eight <span class="asc">A.M.</span> to all intents and purposes dust inside and out. Flesh and blood can stand no more +for the present, and we resolve to halt here for the day. The weather appears quite +as hot as when we started, and the wind comes in, hot and dry, and makes one feel +like a herring of the reddest; while an infernal punkha is creaking its monotonous +tune, as it flaps to and fro in the next room, making one again realize to the full, +“the pleasures of the plains.” We begin, in fact, to discover that the thorns which +were not forthcoming on the Cashmere roses are too surely to be found elsewhere. +</p> +<p><i>October 18.</i>—Reached Goojerat at cock-crow; thus completing a distinct circle of travel through +Bimber, Sirinugger, Ladak, Kushtwar, Muree, and back to our present halting-place, +from whence we had originally branched off. +</p> +<p><i>October 19.</i>—A dusty night’s work brought us at two <span class="asc">A.M.</span> to Goojerwala. Here we found that there was no bungalow between us and Lahore, and, +consequently, no chance of either a wash or breakfast should we go on; we therefore +chose loss of time in preference to loss of breakfast, <span class="pageNum" id="pb287">[<a href="#pb287">287</a>]</span>with the addition of a day under a broiling sun, and halted until the authorities +should awake to feed us. +</p> +<p><i>October 20.</i>—Reached Lahore before sunrise, and got our letters and papers from the post once +more. Afterwards we laid our dak for Cawnpore, and made all arrangements for a start +in the evening. +</p> +<p><i>October 21.</i>—Arrived at Umritsur about three <span class="asc">A.M.</span>, and remained in our coaches until sunrise, when we set off for a stroll through +the city. This we found the cleanest, if not the only clean, town we had seen since +landing in India. The streets were well drained and built, and were guarded by a force +of yellow-legged, red-turbaned Punjabee policemen, who were provided, like their brother +blue-bottles at home, with staves and rattles instead of the more usual insignia of +sword and shield. The houses were almost all decorated, outside and in, with grotesque +mythological and other paintings, such as Vishnu annihilating Rakshus, or demons of +various kinds, or wonderful battle-pieces, wherein pale-faced, unhealthy-looking people, +in tailed coats and cocked hats, might be seen performing prodigies of valour, assisted +by bearded and invincible Sikh warriors of ferocious exterior. The shops were built +with verandahs, <span class="pageNum" id="pb288">[<a href="#pb288">288</a>]</span>and the piazza character of some of the streets, in conjunction with the unusual cleanliness, +gave one a very agreeable impression of Umritsur and its municipal corporation, whoever +that body may be. The inhabitants are principally Sikhs, fine-looking men generally, +with long beards turned up at either side of their faces, and knotted with their hair +under the voluminous folds of their turbans. +</p> +<p><i>October 22.</i>—Out at four <span class="asc">A.M.</span> to explore the great durbar, or head-quarters of the Sikh religion in the Punjab. +Entering through a highly decorated archway in the kotwalee, or police station, we +came upon an enormous tank, with steps descending into the water on all sides, and +planted around with large and shady trees. In the centre of this rose the temple of +the Sikhs, a light-looking, richly-gilt edifice, the lower part of which was constructed +of inlaid stones upon white marble. From this to one side of the tank, a broad causeway +led, decorated with handsome railings, and lamps of gilt-work upon marble pedestals. +Along this, crowds of people were passing to and fro, arrayed in every possible variety +of costume and colour. Sikhs, Hindoos, Mussulmen—men, women, and children, crowded +together like bees in a hive. Round the edges of the tank were handsome <span class="pageNum" id="pb289">[<a href="#pb289">289</a>]</span>buildings, minarets, &c. with trees and gardens attached to them; and that, towards the causeway, was divided in two by a fine and richly-decorated archway, +in the upper part of which a party of patriarchal old Sikhs were squatted on their +haunches, discoursing the affairs of the nation. This whole scene opened upon our +view at a glance. The sun had as yet scarcely appeared over the horizon, and the reflection +of its light shone faintly upon the gold-work and ornaments of the central building, +tipping it and the lofty minarets with rosy light, whilst the rest of the buildings +remained shrouded in the morning haze. With the incessant bustle of the thronging, +brightly-vestured crowd, and the accompaniment of the wild discordant tom-toming of +a band of turbaned musicians, it formed a scene which almost persuaded one to put +once more confidence in the brightly-coloured descriptions of the “Arabian Nights.” +While waiting for sun-rise, we ascended one of the minarets, from which we had a curious +bird’s-eye view of the tank and surrounding city at our feet, while the plains lay +stretching away before us; the horizon level and unbroken, as if it bounded in the +ocean. From this we had also a private view of the manners and customs <span class="pageNum" id="pb290">[<a href="#pb290">290</a>]</span>of the natives. Just below us was an early morning scene in the life of a Sikh gentleman. +He was sitting up in his “four-leg,” on the open court of an upper story, which formed +his bed-room, while his attendants were offering him his morning cup of coffee, and +otherwise attending to his wants. In one corner, another Sikh gentleman, with one +arm, was having a brass vessel of water poured over him, and a number of similar vessels +stood upon a sort of rack, ready for the master of the house to have his bath. +</p> +<p>Scattered about the foot of the bed, which had a grandly decorated canopy, was a deputation +of white-robed Sikhs paying their morning visit, or having an audience upon some matter +of business. These by degrees got up and went out, each making a profound salaam as +he passed the bed. One of them only, the old man called back, and with him, as he +sat upon the “four-leg,” he had a long and confidential talk. This evidently was the +medical adviser, and, judging by the dumb-show of the interview which ensued, the +Sikh, as evidently, was the victim of a cold in his fine old nose, which he had doubtless +caught from sleeping in the open air. After this we repaired to the kotwallee again, +and, getting a pair of slippers in exchange for <span class="pageNum" id="pb291">[<a href="#pb291">291</a>]</span>our boots, descended to the durbar and mingled with the crowd. +</p> +<p>Although we were inadmissible in boots, no objection whatever appeared to be made +to the entrance of Brahminee bulls; for we found a number of them walking about the +mosaic pavement with as much confidence and impunity as if the place belonged to them. +</p> +<p>In the building we found a collection of Sikh padres, or “gooroos,” sitting behind +a massive volume richly cased in cloth of gold and silver, while squatted around under +a canopy, were the Sikh faithful, offering their presents of cowries, chupatties, +balls of sweetmeats, and showers of yellow and white necklaces of flowers. The book +was the original law of Gooroo Gurunth Sahib, which they had just finished reading, +and, as we entered, they were commencing to cover it up again, which they did, with +great pomp and ceremony, in a number of cloths of various patterns, after which they +distributed the votive offerings among themselves and the people present, and held +a sort of banquet over the sweets and flowers. In the midst of the proceedings, a +very fine specimen of the race of Fukeer came in, and presenting an offering of the +smallest, laid his head upon the ground before the book, and, <span class="pageNum" id="pb292">[<a href="#pb292">292</a>]</span>without a word, took himself off again. He was girt round the loins with a yellowish-red +cloth; his body, from head to foot, was covered with ashes. The hair of his head was +matted together in strips, like the tail of an uncared cow, and reached to his waist. +A shallow earthen pot was his hat, and over his shoulders hung two large gourds, suspended +by a cord, while in his hand he carried a long staff, covered over with stuff of the +same kind as that round his waist. Such was the figure which entered among the gaily-dressed +multitude in the saintly durbar; and, although to the assembled people there appeared +nothing whatever either strange or unusual in the arrival, to us, who were looking +on, the contrast between the unclad dirty mendicant, and the pure white vestments +of the Sikhs around, rendered it a most striking and remarkable apparition. +</p> +<p>On entering, he had removed the earthen pot which formed his hat, and, one of the +two gourds which were round his shoulders having fallen to the ground in the act, +it was amusing to see him pause for a second, and anxiously examine whether any compound +fracture had taken place in the precious article of his very limited dinner service. +One extremity of the building we found <span class="pageNum" id="pb293">[<a href="#pb293">293</a>]</span>was occupied for Hindoo worship; so that fraternity and equality, worthy of imitation +seems to be the order of the day among the religions of Umritsur. The interior was +richly decorated with gilding and mirrors, &c., but was little worthy of remark in +comparison with the richness of the exterior effect. Presenting a “bukshish” to the +expectant padres who guarded the sacred book, we left them to their devotions, and +betook ourselves once more to our bungalow. +</p> +<p><i>October 23.</i>—Travelling all night, we reached Jullunder at six <span class="asc">A.M.</span>, and, after breakfast, again started for Loodianah, where we dined. We here again +crossed the Sutlej, but, the water being low, boat navigation was dispensed with, +and a shaky bridge, and about two miles of sandy river-bed, completed the passage. +</p> +<p>At Loodianah we were stormed by a host of merchants, with pushmeena and other soft +matters, who were rather disappointed at finding we had come from the birth-place +of such like manufactures. Some of the local shawls, however, or “Rampore chudders,” +were beautifully fine and delicate, and seemed worthy of inspection. +</p> +<p><i>October 24.</i>—Reached Umballa at eight <span class="asc">A.M.</span>, and started again shortly after. Our horses to-day <span class="pageNum" id="pb294">[<a href="#pb294">294</a>]</span>were most miserable caricatures, and it was with difficulty we managed to progress +at all. The last stage was accomplished at a walk; and what with this and the delay +caused by a couple of sandy river-beds, we only reached Kurnaul at ten <span class="asc">P.M.</span> The miserable condition of the horses was accounted for by the enormously high price +of grain and the absence of grass, in consequence of the want of rain. The general +topic, in fact, is now the failure of the rains, and consequent apprehensions of a +famine throughout the land. “Atar” is here eight seers the rupee, or in other words, +flour sells at one shilling and ninepence a stone—an enormous price in these parts. +</p> +<p><i>October 25.</i>—Sunrise found us still half-way to Delhi, and we stopped to breakfast at the little +bungalow of Ghureekulla. Here we found a fine old Khansaman, who gave us an account +of the incidents of the Mutiny which came under his notice. He had received a flying +party of two hundred men, women, and children, who arrived at dead of night, some +on horses, some on foot, and all worn and haggard by their march from Delhi, from +which they had escaped. These he took care of, and supplied with food until the following +day, when they departed, without, by <span class="pageNum" id="pb295">[<a href="#pb295">295</a>]</span>his own account, giving him anything, either as pay or reward. He afterwards assisted +others also, and received about one hundred and twenty rupees, one way or another, +for his services. At present he receives six rupees a month, with whatever he can +pick up from travellers; not a very large amount in the out-of-the-way little jungle +station of Ghureekulla. +</p> +<p><i>October 26.</i>—Passed through Delhi by moonlight, and reached the bungalow at one <span class="asc">A.M.</span> At gun-fire we emerged from our locomotives, and went to explore the king’s palace. +In spite of the late lesson on the subject of sepoys, we found the gates of the fort +held entirely by native guards, and a very small body of Europeans located within +the walls. After rambling through the place, and discovering that its only beauty +lay at present in its exterior, we went to the Jama Musjid, a fine mosque of red granite, +inlaid in parts with white marble. The cupolas, of great size, were entirely marble, +and the minarets, also of marble, were closely inlaid. The place had been only recently +handed over to the Moslems after its late seizure, and was not as yet used for worship. +Ascending one of the minarets, we had a fine view of the city of the Great Mogul dynasty, +with its minarets and <span class="pageNum" id="pb296">[<a href="#pb296">296</a>]</span>ornamented streets; and in the distance we could discern the positions occupied by +our besieging force, when the last of the kings was brought so rudely to the termination +of his reign. +</p> +<p><i>October 27.</i>—Reached Koel, or Allyghur, at eight <span class="asc">A.M.</span> Started again at five, stopping on the way to inspect the Jama Musjid, and a very +fine old tower, probably of Buddhist or Jain origin, which was covered over with ancient +inscriptions. Just as the Muezzin was calling to evening prayer, we again resumed +our monotonous order of travel, and branched off towards Agra to visit the famous +Taj Mahul. +</p> +<p><i>October 28.</i>—Reached Agra at two <span class="asc">A.M.</span>, and finding the bungalow full, had to go to the hotel. At sunrise we drove out to +the Taj, and here, I think, for the first time, we were not disappointed in the difference +between reality and description. The entrance to the gardens in which the Taj is situated +was beautiful in itself, but one sight of the main building left no room for admiration +of anything besides. +</p> +<p>It is situated on the banks of the Jumna, with a fine view of the magnificent fort, +with its mosque and minarets, and is entirely of pure white marble, inlaid with stones +into shapes of flowers and arabesques, &c. At each corner rises <span class="pageNum" id="pb297">[<a href="#pb297">297</a>]</span>a white marble minaret, like a pillar of snow, beautifully decorated and carved, but +unsullied by a single line of any other colour whatever. The interior is profusely +inlaid with minute stones of considerable value, and is lit by carved marble windows +of the most beautiful design imaginable. In the centre, surrounding the tomb of Mûmtaz +and her lord, is a marvellous white marble screen, in the form of a polygon, carved +like perforated ivory, and also inlaid with minute stones of every shape and colour.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e3280src" href="#xd30e3280">3</a> The queen, in whose honour the tomb was built, occupies the very centre of the enclosure, +Shah Jehan’s tomb being on one side of it, and larger in size, which rather spoils +the symmetry of the space. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb298">[<a href="#pb298">298</a>]</span></p> +<p>Exactly underneath the tombs, in the main body of the building, one descends to a +marble vault, where there are two others precisely similar in shape, but without any +inscription or ornament whatever, and under these latter the mortal remains of the +famous Shah Jehan and Mûmtaz repose in peace. Over the queen’s tomb, in the very centre +of the interior, a single ostrich egg was suspended by an almost invisible thread, +probably to shadow forth something of the meaning of the “Resurgam” affixed to monuments +elsewhere. On either side, without the mausoleum, are two buildings facing inwards, +one of which is a mosque, built in red granite and white marble; and the whole are +profusely ornamented with carvings in marble, which would take an age to examine thoroughly, +and which produce an effect quite incapable of being adequately portrayed by either +pen or pencil. +</p> +<p>In one of these edifices, among the inlaid work and arabesques, and not far from the +mortal remains of the departed King and Queen, we found a curious and interesting +inscription, which seems to have been hitherto unmentioned by the many travellers +who have visited the sacred spot. It was prominently placed and easily decipherable, +being in unusually large letters, and in that <span class="pageNum" id="pb299">[<a href="#pb299">299</a>]</span>character which might be called the “<i>Uneiform,</i>” of which so many valuable specimens exist in all parts of the known globe. +</p> +<p>It ran thus:— +</p> +<blockquote><p>IN MEMORY OF VALENTINE’S DAY.</p></blockquote> +<p>The sentence appeared unfinished, and one or two words were probably required to complete +the sense, but from similar existing records there could be no difficulty in filling +in the missing syllables. +</p> +<p>It was curious, however, to reflect what the feeling could have been that stayed the +writer’s hand, and prevented him from finishing his graceful tribute to the mighty +dead. +</p> +<p>Mûmtaz, from whose name the word “Taj” is derived (the letter “z” being incapable +of being pronounced by many natives except as a “j”), was the daughter of the famous +Noor Jehan’s brother Asoph Khan. Shah Jehan followed his queen in <span class="asc">A.D.</span> 1665, and was laid in the building which he had himself originally designed in her +honour alone. +</p> +<p>With Noor Jehan and Jehangeer the case was reversed. The conqueror of the world ended +his career in <span class="asc">A.D.</span> 1627, and the partner of all his Cashmerian wanderings, and many adventures, <span class="pageNum" id="pb300">[<a href="#pb300">300</a>]</span>who wore no colour but white after his death, finally rejoined him in a tomb which +she had raised to his memory at Lahore. +</p> +<div class="figure p030width" id="p030"><img src="images/p030.jpg" alt="Crossing the Sutlej." width="492" height="263" /></div><p> +</p> +<p>Having paid due homage to the beauty of the far-famed mausoleum, we went to the Fort, +and, after visiting the Ram Bagh, the Ikmam Dowlah, and the various palaces built +by Akbar Shah, once more took the road, and were soon again galloping through the +dust, morning bringing us to the bungalow of Bewah. From this we again made for Ghoorsahagunge +and Cawnpore, and by rail to Allahabad, there completing a circuit of travel extending +to between two and three thousand miles: +</p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line xd30e815">“In heat and cold +</p> +<p class="line">We’d roved o’er many a hill and many a dale, +</p> +<p class="line">Through many a wood and many an open ground, +</p> +<p class="line">In sunshine and in shade, in wet and fair, +</p> +<p class="line">Thoughtful or blithe of heart as might befall +</p> +<p class="line">Our best companions, now the driving winds, +</p> +<p class="line">And now the trotting brooks and whispering trees, +</p> +<p class="line">And now the music of our own quick steps +</p> +<p class="line">With many a short-lived thought that passed between +</p> +<p class="line">And disappeared.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first">And now but one day more remains of our six months’ leave. The 31st of October sees +us again fairly in the hands of the authorities. Brothers in arms, who during our +absence have been <span class="pageNum" id="pb301">[<a href="#pb301">301</a>]</span>having “all work and no play,” receive us with warm and disinterested welcome. The +<abbr title="Quartermaster General">Q.M.G.</abbr> is hauled away in triumph by a swarm of fellow black-legs to glad the squaw-like +partner of his sooty bosom. The last remnants of the expedition are fairly broken +up, and already the days when we went gipsying have passed away “a long time ago.” +<span class="pageNum" id="pb302">[<a href="#pb302">302</a>]</span></p> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep" /> +<div id="xd30e2991"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e2991src">1</a></span> The value which a Kashmirian sets upon his Kangrí may be known by the following distich:— +</p> +<div class="q"> +<div class="nestedtext"> +<div class="nestedbody"> +<div class="lgouter footnote"> +<p class="line">“Oh Kangrí! Oh Kangrí! +</p> +<p class="line">You are the gift of Houris and Fairies; +</p> +<p class="line">When I take you under my arm +</p> +<p class="line">You drive away fear from my heart.”</p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +</div><p> +</p> +<p class="footnote cont">—<span class="sc">Vigne.</span> <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e2991src" title="Return to note 1 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e3169"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e3169src">2</a></span> “Won’t the old bearers get something, your honour?” <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e3169src" title="Return to note 2 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e3280"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e3280src">3</a></span> According to M. Voysey, in his Asiatic Researches, “A single flower in the screen +contains a hundred stones, each cut to the exact shape necessary, and highly polished; +and, although everything is finished like an ornament for a drawing-room chimney-piece, +the general effect produced is rather solemn and impressive than gaudy. +</p> +<p class="footnote cont">“In the minute beauties of execution, the flowers are by no means equal to those on +tables and other small works in Pietra dura at Florence. It is the taste displayed +in outline and application of this ornament, combined with the lightness and simplicity +of the building, which gives it an advantage so prodigious over the gloomy portals +of the chapel of the Medici. The graceful flow, the harmonious colours, combined with +the mild lustre of the marble on which the ornamentation is displayed, form the peculiar +charm of the building, and distinguish it from any other in the world. The materials +are Lapis Lazuli, Jasper, Heliotrope or blood stone, Chalcedony, and other agates, +Cornelian, Jade, &c.” <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e3280src" title="Return to note 3 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div0 route"> +<h2 class="main">Route.</h2> +<p class="first"></p> +<div class="table"> +<table class="t2"> +<thead> +<tr class="unit"> +<td class="cellHeadLeft cellHeadTop cellHeadBottom"> </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellHeadRight cellHeadTop cellHeadBottom">Miles.</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellHeadLeft cellHeadTop cellHeadBottom"> </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellHeadRight cellHeadTop cellHeadBottom">Miles.</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellHeadLeft cellHeadTop cellHeadBottom"> </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellHeadRight cellHeadTop cellHeadBottom">Miles.</td> +</tr> +</thead> +<tbody> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Allahabad </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight"></td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Vernagh </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">11</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Peer </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">16</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Cawnpore </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">120</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Islamabad </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">15</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Nowbogh </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">9</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Ghoorsahagunge </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">72</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Sirinugger </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">by water</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Kûkûnath </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">10</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Etawah </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">73</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Gunberbull </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight"><span class="seg"><span class="ditto"><span class="s">by</span><span class="d"><span class="i">,,</span></span></span> <span class="ditto"><span class="s">water</span><span class="d"><span class="i">,,</span></span></span> </span></td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Atchabull </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">8</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Kurga </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">72</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Kungur </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">11</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Islamabad </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">6</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Delhi </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">51</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Gûndisursing </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">12</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Sirinugger </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">by water</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Kurnaul </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">73</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Soonamurg </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">14</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Baramoula </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight"><span class="seg"><span class="ditto"><span class="s">by</span><span class="d"><span class="i">,,</span></span></span> <span class="ditto"><span class="s">water</span><span class="d"><span class="i">,,</span></span></span> </span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Umballa </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">45</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Foot of the Hills </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">9</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Nowshera </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">8</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Kalka </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">40</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Pandras </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">24</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Uree </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Kussowlie </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">9</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Dras </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">8</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Chukothee </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">15</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Simla </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">40</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Tusgam </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">14</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Hutteian </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">14</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Hureepore </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">20</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Chungun </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">12</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Chukar </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">9</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Kalka </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">29</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Pushkoom </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">10</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Mehra </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">6</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Umballa </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">40</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Waka </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">13</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Dunna </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">6</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Thikanmajura </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">36</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Khurboo </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">10</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Puttun </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">6</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Jullundur </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">61</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Lamieroo </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">12</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Dewul </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">9</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Umritsur </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">59</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Nûrila </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">16</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Muree </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">11</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Lahore </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">35</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Suspûl </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">14</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Rawul Pindee </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">37</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Gûgerwalla </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">39</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Egnemo </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">10</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Gûgerkhan </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Goojerat </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">30</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Ladak </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">18</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Jhelum </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">37</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Bimber </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">27</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Chunga </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">18</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Goojerat </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">31</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Serai Saidabad </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">12</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Hemis </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">2</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Gûgerwalla </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">30</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Nowshera </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">11</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Ladak </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">20</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Lahore </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">39</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Chungas </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">11</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Pitok </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">4</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Umritsur </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">35</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Rajaori </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">12</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Egnemo </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">14</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Jullundur </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">59</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Thanna </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">12</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Suspûl </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">10</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Loodiana </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">32</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Burrumgulla </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">11</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Nûrila </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">14</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Umballa </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">71</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Poshana </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">6</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Lamieroo </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">16</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Kurnaul </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">45</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Peer Punjal </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">9</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Khurboo </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">12</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Ghureekulla </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Poshana </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">9</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Waka </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">10</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Delhi </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Aliabad </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">11</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Pushkoom </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">13</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Allyghur </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">79</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Heerpore </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">13</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Thambis </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">14</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Agra </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">50</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Shupayon </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">6</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Sankoo </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">16</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Bewah </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">82</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Ramoon </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">9</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Sooroo </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">12</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Ghoorsahagunge </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">79</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Sirinugger </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">14</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Among the Mountains </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">11</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Cawnpore </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">72</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Wûler </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight"><span class="seg">by water</span></td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Ditto </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">14</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft cellBottom">Allahabad </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight cellBottom">120</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft">Islamabad </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight"><span class="seg"><span class="ditto"><span class="s">by</span><span class="d"><span class="i">,,</span></span></span> <span class="ditto"><span class="s">water</span><span class="d"><span class="i">,,</span></span></span> </span></td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft">Sucknez </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight">11</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="cellLeft cellBottom">Atchabull </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight cellBottom">6</td> +<td class="cellDoubleUp"></td> +<td class="cellLeft cellBottom">Bragnion </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellRight cellBottom">14</td> +</tr> +</tbody> +</table> +</div><p> +</p> +<p>Parts of the country not having been at the time correctly mapped, these distances +are in some instances approximations only. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb305">[<a href="#pb305">305</a>]</span></p> +</div> +<div id="religions" class="div0 route"> +<h2 class="main">The Religions of Cashmere and Thibet.</h2> +<p class="first">During all our wanderings, whether in India, Cashmere, or Thibet, the most striking +feature throughout, was the outward display of religion and the prominent part which +religious forms of worship take in the every-day life of the people. <span class="pageNum" id="pb306">[<a href="#pb306">306</a>]</span>Monuments and temples everywhere bear testimony to the universal belief in a Supreme +Being; and Hindoo, Mussulman, and Buddhist alike, by numberless prayers and frequent +offerings, confess their desire to propitiate His power and to cultivate His favour. +</p> +<div class="figure p305width" id="p305"><img src="images/p305.jpg" alt="Ancient Hindoo Temple." width="501" height="636" /></div><p> +</p> +<p>Every little village has its “Musjid” or “Shiwala,” and everywhere, and at all hours, +votaries of the different sects may be seen, in the fashion they have learnt from +childhood, openly <i>remembering,</i> at least, their Creator. +</p> +<div class="figure p306width" id="p306"><img src="images/p306.jpg" alt="Hindoo Temple in the Himalayas" width="444" height="720" /><p class="figureHead">Hindoo Temple in the Himalayas</p> +</div><p> +</p> +<p>The naked Hindoo, with loosened scalp lock and otherwise closely-shaven head, stands +in running water, and with his face upturned to the sun apostrophises the Divine Essence, +whose qualities and attributes he has alone been taught to recognise, through the +numberless incarnations of his degenerate creed. Five times a day the Mussulman kneels +in open adoration of his Maker, and, doffing his slippers, repeats, with forehead +to the ground, the formula laid down for him by the only Prophet he has learnt to +believe in. The Buddhist, too, mutters his “Ûm mani panee” at every turn, and keeps +his praying wheel in endless motion, with entire confidence in its mystic virtues, +and fullest faith in the efficacy of those forms which he has thus been taught to +follow from his cradle. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb307">[<a href="#pb307">307</a>]</span></p> +<p>Each worships after the fashion of his fathers before him, and each, by the dim illumination +of his own particular light, fancies himself upon the true path, and is able plainly +to perceive his neighbour groping in the outer darkness. +</p> +<p>Seeing all this, and turning in imagination to other lands, it is curious to consider +that the Church which possesses the only Lamp of Truth, and who by the help of its +light pronounces all these zealous worshippers alike, to be but “Infidels and Turks,” +and says to all, in language not quite so polite as that of Touchstone, “Truly, shepherds, +ye are in a parlous state,” herself makes no such public demonstration of her faith. +To an Eastern infidel travelling in the West, she would even appear, to outward eye, +a tenfold greater infidel than her neighbours. Except on one day in seven, he would +seldom find a place of public worship open to his gaze, while the Name which he himself +has learned to reverence to such a degree that every scrap of paper that might chance +to bear it, is sacred in his eyes, he might hear a thousand times, and perhaps not +once in adoration; and while it commences every action of his own life he would there +find it utterly excluded from its accustomed place. Even the form of parting salutation, +which in almost all <span class="pageNum" id="pb308">[<a href="#pb308">308</a>]</span>lands—Infidel and Heretical—greets him in the name of God, would, in Protestant England, +fall upon his ear with no such signification. While the benighted Hindoo greets his +parting neighbour to the present day with “Khûda Hafiz”—God the Preserver—the Englishman’s +“Good-bye,” like well-worn coin, has changed so much by use, that now, no stranger +could discern in it any trace whatever of the image with which it was originally stamped. +</p> +<p>And although the comparison between the apparent creeds of East and West is truly +that between a very large proportion of faithful professors of a false religion and, +to outward eye, a similarly large proportion of unfaithful followers of the true religion, +it is interesting to form some idea of the different systems which have existed for +so many ages, and which, though proved alike by reason and revelation to be of human +origin and unequal to the wants of human nature, have yet maintained their influence +to the present day, and hold among their votaries still such zealous worshippers of +an unknown God. +</p> +<p>The oldest of all these religions appears to be that of the Hindoos. The Vedas, or +Scriptures, date as far back as the Books of Moses, 1100 B.C.; and previously even +to their then being committed <span class="pageNum" id="pb309">[<a href="#pb309">309</a>]</span>to writing by the Sage Vyasa, they are believed to have been preserved for ages by +tradition. The primary doctrine of the Vedas is the Unity of God. There is, they say, +“but one Deity, the Supreme Spirit, the Lord of the Universe, whose work is the universe.” +“Let as adore the supremacy of that divine Sun, the Godhead, who illuminates all, +who recreates all, from whom all proceed, to whom all must return, whom we invoke +to direct our understandings aright in our progress towards His holy seat. What the +sun and light are to this world, that are the Supreme Good and Truth to the intellectual +and invisible universe; and as our corporeal eyes have a distinct perception of objects +enlightened by the sun, thus our souls acquire certain knowledge by meditating on +the light of truth which emanates from the Being of beings; that is the light by which +alone our minds can be directed to the path of beatitude.” +</p> +<p>Every Brahmin must pray at morning and evening twilight in some unfrequented place, +near pure water, and must bathe daily; he must also daily perform five sacraments, +viz., studying the Vedas, making oblations to the manes of the departed, giving rice +to living creatures, and receiving guests with honour. As to the <span class="pageNum" id="pb310">[<a href="#pb310">310</a>]</span>doctrine of a future state, they believe in the transmigration of the soul, but that +between the different stages of existence it enjoys, according to merit or demerit, +years and years of happiness in some of the heavens, or suffers torments of similar +duration in some of the hells. The most wicked, however, after being purged of their +crimes by ages of suffering, and by repeated transmigrations, may ascend in the scale +of being until they finally enter heaven and attain the highest reward of all good, +which is incorporation with the Divine Essence. +</p> +<p>Like more enlightened systems of religion, the Hindoo faith has degenerated from the +purity originally inculcated. The Monotheism, though still existing, has been almost +smothered by a system of innumerable incarnations; by means of which the attributes +of an unseen Deity were to be brought to the understandings of the ignorant; and, +as might be expected, the hidden symbol has been almost lost in the tangible reality. +The later Scriptures, or Pûranas, are believed to have been compiled between the eighth +and sixteenth centuries, <span class="asc">A.D.</span>; and though still upholding the existence of a Supreme Being, by whom all things +are composed, they introduce a variety of incarnations and divinities almost innumerable. +Of these, the three principal <span class="pageNum" id="pb311">[<a href="#pb311">311</a>]</span>are<span id="xd30e3962"></span> Brahma, Vishnu, and Siva, representing respectively the creating, preserving, and +destroying principles; and their wives, Sereswutee, Lukshmee, and Dewee. These latter +are the active powers which develop the principles represented by the triad. The divinity +most commonly portrayed however, though not publicly worshipped, is Gunesh. Almost +every dwelling has her effigy rudely painted over the entrance; and she is invoked +at the beginning of all undertakings, and is the remover of all difficulties. Her +peculiar appearance is accounted for by the fact of her having been killed at an early +period of life by Siva, who cut off her head, and, afterwards relenting, replaced +it with the first that happened to come to hand, which turned out to be an elephant’s! +</p> +<div class="figure p311width" id="p311"><img src="images/p311.jpg" alt="Gunesh." width="720" height="420" /><p class="figureHead">Gunesh.</p> +</div><p> +</p> +<p>Gunesh was produced by the intense wishes of Dewee, and is now appealed to at the +commencement of almost every act in Hindoo life. +</p> +<p>The following invocation to this “household god” will give some idea of the position +she holds in public estimation. It is taken from the “Prem Sagur,” or Ocean of Love, +a history of the life of Krishna, a son of Vishnu, who, with Siva and Dewee, or Mahadewee, +monopolises almost the entire public respect and adoration:— +<span class="pageNum" id="pb312">[<a href="#pb312">312</a>]</span></p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“Oh elephant-faced Deity, obviator of difficulties, of exalted fame resplendent, +</p> +<p class="line">Grant as a boon, pure language, wisdom, and felicity may be much promoted. +</p> +<p class="line">Thou on whose two celestial feet the world is gazing, worshipping both day and night, +</p> +<p class="line">O mother of the universe, grant unto me, remembering thee, true skill and utterance.”</p> +</div> +<p class="first">The “Ocean of Love” gives a full account of the various incarnations of Krishna, the +favourite divinity of the Hindoos, and opens with the scene of his birth. Kans, his +uncle, has placed guards, in order that the child may be killed at his first appearance, +it having been predicted that Kans himself is to fall by the hands of Krishna. The +Cashmerian artist—whose powers of colouring were his chief recommendation—has depicted +the moment when Vasadeo and Devakee, the father and mother, viewing Krishna, with +long-drawn sighs, both begin to say, “If, by some means, we could send away this child, +then it would escape the guilty Kans.” Vasadeo says, “Without destiny none can preserve +him; the writing of Fate, that only will be accomplished.” +</p> +<div class="figure p312width" id="p312"><img src="images/p312.jpg" alt="Birth of Krishna." width="720" height="420" /><p class="figureHead">Birth of Krishna.</p> +</div><p> +</p> +<p>Destiny being propitious, the guards fall asleep upon their posts, as shown in the +accompanying design, and another child is substituted for Krishna. He is afterwards +brought up as a <span class="pageNum" id="pb313">[<a href="#pb313">313</a>]</span>herdsman, and spends his childhood among the milkmaids of Braj, upon whom he plays +all sorts of tricks. “One day the divine Krishna played upon the flute<span id="xd30e3986"></span> in the forest, when, hearing the sound of the instrument, all the young women of +Braj arose in confusion, and hastened and assembled in one place. The dark-blue Krishna, +with body of the hue of clouds, stood in the midst; and such was the beauty of the +fair ones, as they sported, that they resembled golden creepers growing from beneath +a blue mountain!” +</p> +<p>The description of the state of the world, on Krishna’s appearance, is given by the +saintly Shukadeo to King Parikshah—“O King, at the time of the divine Krishna appearing, +in the minds of all such joy arose, that not even the name of grief remained. With +joy the woods and groves began to bear fruits and flowers, their verdure still increasing. +The rivers, streams, and lakes were filled with water, and upon them birds of every +kind were sporting; and, from city to city, from house to house, from village to village, +rejoicings were celebrated. The Brahmins were performing sacrifice; the Regents of +the ten divisions of the horizon rejoiced. Clouds were moving over the circuit of +Braj. The deities, seated in their cars, <span class="pageNum" id="pb314">[<a href="#pb314">314</a>]</span>rained down flowers; the holders of the magic pill, the celestial musicians, and heavenly +bards, continually sounding drums, kettledrums, and pipes, were singing the praises +of the divine virtues; and, in one direction, Urvasee, and all the celestial dancers, +were dancing. In such a time, then, on Wednesday, the eighth day of the dark half +of the month Bhadon, at midnight, while the moon was in the mansion of Rohanee, the +divine Krishna was born, of the colour of clouds, moon-faced and lotus-eyed, with +a girdle of yellow cloth passing round his loins, wearing a crown, and arrayed in +a necklace of five jewels, produced from the elements of nature, and with ornaments +set with gems, in a four-armed form, sustaining the shell, the quoit, the mace, and +the lotus he presented himself.” +</p> +<p>Krishna afterwards espouses a fair lady, of the name of Rûkminee, and the marriage +is thus poetically described. Rûkminee has written a letter, filled with love, and +sent it by the hand of a Brahmin, to the Root of Joy, Krishna:—“The Brahmin having +arrived at Dûarika, perceives that the town is in the midst of the ocean, and on the +four sides of it there are great mountains and woods and groves, which add beauty +to the scene. In these were various <span class="pageNum" id="pb315">[<a href="#pb315">315</a>]</span>kinds of beasts and birds, and the limpid lakes were filled with pure water, and lotus +flowers were blooming, upon which swarms upon swarms of black bees were humming. To +the distance of many miles orchards, containing an endless variety of fruit and flowers, +extended; along these enclosures betel gardens were flourishing. The gardeners, standing +at the wells, were singing with sweet strains; and, working waterwheels and buckets, +were irrigating the high and low grounds.” +</p> +<p>Beholding this beautiful scene, and being gladdened thereby, the Brahmin, still advancing, +beholds that “on four sides of the city are very lofty ramparts, with four gateways, +in which folding-doors, inlaid with gold, are fixed, and, inside the city, houses +of five and six stories high, of silver and gold, adorned with jewels, so lofty as +to converse with the sky, are glittering. Their minarets and pinnacles are gleaming +like lightning, and banners and pennons of many colours are fluttering. The warm fragrance +of perfumes was issuing from windows, air-holes, and lattices. At every door were +placed pillars of the plantain-tree, with fresh shoots, and golden vessels. Garlands +and wreathed flowers were festooned from house to house, and joyful music was sounding. +From <span class="pageNum" id="pb316">[<a href="#pb316">316</a>]</span>place to place, the recital of the Pûranas and discourse about Krishna was kept up. +The eighteen classes were dwelling in case and tranquillity.” +</p> +<p>On hearing the Brahmin’s message, the warder says:—“ ‘Great sir, be pleased to enter +the palace; the divine Krishna reposes, in front of you, on a throne.’ Krishna, descending, +bows to him, and shows him much respect, and those attentions which a man would show +to his friend. Having applied fragrant unguents, and caused him to be bathed and washed, +he partakes of food, possessing the six flavours. Afterwards he gave him the betel +leaf, made up with areca nut, spices, and chunam; and having perfumed his body with +saffron and sandal wood oil, and arranged his dress, and put upon him a necklace of +flowers, he conducted him into a palace adorned with jewels, and caused him to repose +in a fair curtained bed, studded with gems.” After sleeping profoundly, the Brahmin +awakes, and relates his mission. Krishna goes to claim his bride, and orders his charioteer, +Darak, to prepare his chariot. Darak quickly yokes four horses. Then the divine Krishna, +having ascended, and seated the Brahmin, departs from Dûarika to Kundalpore. On coming +forth from the city, behold! “on the right hand <span class="pageNum" id="pb317">[<a href="#pb317">317</a>]</span>herds upon herds of deer are moving, and in front, a lion and lioness, carrying their +prey, are advancing, roaring.” +</p> +<p>Having seen this auspicious event, the Brahmin, having mentally reflected, said, “Sire, +from beholding, at this time, this good omen, it appears to my mind that, just as +these are advancing, having accomplished their object, just so you will return, having +effected yours.” Arrived at Kundalpore, he finds preparations made for the marriage: +</p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“Swept were the streets, the crossings o’er-canopied, and with perfumes sprinkled +and sandal oil; +</p> +<p class="line">Clusters were formed of flowers of white and of red, and interspersed with cocoa-nuts +of gold. +</p> +<p class="line">The green foliage, fruits, and flowers, were in profusion, and from house to house +flowering wreaths. +</p> +<p class="line">Banners and pennons and flowers, in golden tissues, were suspended, and well-fashioned +vessels of gold +</p> +<p class="line">And in every house reigned joy!”</p> +</div> +<p class="first">“As for Rûkminee, with agitated frame, she gazed in every direction, as the moon is +dimmed by the morn. Extreme anxiety showed in the heart of the fair one; she gazed, +standing in a lofty balcony; her frame was agitated, her heart most sad; she drew +deep sighs. While, through distress, tears rain from her eyes, she says, “Why has +not Krishna arrived?” When the marriage-day dawns, she sends, by a Brahmin, to Krishna: +<span class="pageNum" id="pb318">[<a href="#pb318">318</a>]</span>“Receptacle of favour,—When two hours of the day remain I shall go to perform worship +in the temple of Dewee, to the east of the city.” Her companions and attendants, arriving, +first filled a square place in the courtyard with pearls, and spread a seat of gold +set with pearls, on which they caused Rûkminee to sit, and anointed her with oil by +the hands of seven married women whose husbands were alive. Afterwards, having rubbed +her with fragrant paste, they adorned her with sixteen ornaments, and put on her twelve +trinkets, and having arrayed her in a red boddice they seated her, fully adorned. +Then the young Rûkminee, accompanied by all her handmaidens, went, with the sound +of music, to perform her devotions. Screened by a curtain of silk, and surrounded +by crowd upon crowd of companions, she appeared among the swarthy group who accompanied +her as beautiful, as amid dark blue clouds, the moon with its company of stars!” +</p> +<div class="figure p318width" id="p318"><img src="images/p318.jpg" alt="Temple Decoration, Himalayas." width="720" height="450" /><div class="figAnnotation p318width"><span class="figBottomLeft">W.H.K. Delt.</span><span class="figTop"> </span><span class="figBottomRight">Hanhart, Lith.</span></div> +<p class="figureHead">Temple Decoration, Himalayas.</p> +</div><p> +</p> +<p>Having arrived at the temple of Dewee, the royal maiden, having washed her hands and +feet and sipped water, proceeded to offer sandal oil, unbroken grains of rice, flowers, +incense, lamps, and consecrated food, and with earnest faith performed the worship +of Dewee according to the prescribed ritual. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb319">[<a href="#pb319">319</a>]</span></p> +<p>“After which she fed women of the Brahmin caste with delectable food, and having attired +them in fair garments, she drew a mark on their foreheads with a mixture of rice, +alum, turmeric, and acid, and having caused to adhere some unbroken grains of rice, +she received their benediction. Hearing from an attendant that Krishna has arrived, +the Princess is filled with ecstatic delight, so that she cannot contain herself; +and leaning on the arm of an attendant, in a graceful attitude, remains slightly smiling, +in such a manner that no description can express her beauty. The guards become fascinated +and remain immoveable. With trembling frame and coy of heart she finally departs with +Krishna.” +</p> +<p>The domestic life and appearance of Krishna and Rûkminee is still further characteristically +described in the imaginative pages of the “Ocean of Love:”—“Once on a time, in a palace +of gold, studded with jewels, a gem-adorned bedstead, with curtains, was spread, on +which a bedding white as foam, and adorned with flowers, with pillows for the cheek +and for the head, continued to exhale perfumes. On all four sides of the bed vessels +containing camphor, rose-water, saffron, sandal oil, and other ingredients, were placed; +various kinds of marvellous pictures were delineated on the walls on all sides. In +recesses, <span class="pageNum" id="pb320">[<a href="#pb320">320</a>]</span>here and there, flowers, fruits, sweetmeats, and confections were placed, and all +that could be required for enjoyment was at hand. Clothed in a petticoat and a full +loose robe of dazzling splendour, embroidered with pearls, and a sparkling boddice, +and a long refulgent wrapper, and wearing a glittering veil, covered with ornaments +from head to foot; with red lines drawn across the forehead, having a nose-ring of +the largest pearls, ornaments for the head, earrings, ornamental line at the parting +of the hair, marks between the eyebrows, ornaments for the ears and forehead, a necklace +composed of circular pieces of gold, a string of gold beads and coral, a breast ornament, +a necklace of five strings and of seven, a pearl necklace, double and triple bracelets +of nine gems, armlets, wristlets, and other kinds of fastenings for the arm; bangles, +seals; seal rings, a girdle of bells, rings for the great toe, toe ornaments, anklets, +and other ornaments of all kinds studded with jewels; the moon-faced, tulip-complexioned, +gazelle-eyed, bird-voiced, elephant-gaited, slim-waisted, divine Rûkminee, and the +cloud-coloured, lotus-eyed Krishna, ocean of beauty, splendour of the three worlds, +root of joy, wearing a diadem like the crest of a peacock, and a necklace of forest +flowers, a silken robe of yellow hue, and a scarf <span class="pageNum" id="pb321">[<a href="#pb321">321</a>]</span>of the same, were reposing, when, all of sudden, the divine Krishna said to Rûkminee, +‘Listen, fair one,’ ” &c. +</p> +<p>Krishna afterwards takes 16,100 wives, and always at early dawn, one would wash his +face, another would apply a fragrant paste to his body, another would prepare for +him and give him to eat food of six flavours, another would make nice betel, with +cloves, cardamums, mace, and nutmegs, for her beloved. “Each produced a daughter fair +as Rûkminee; each ten sons, brave sons were they! 161,000 and all alike, such were +the sons of Krishna!” +</p> +<p>Such is part of the history of the favourite divinity of the benighted Hindoo as related +in the flowery pages of the “Ocean of Love,” and the history may be, more or less, +read in the every-day scenes of Indian life which pass around one. +</p> +<p>The description of Rûkminee, strange as it is, corresponds with many other fair portraits +in the Hindee; witness that of “Oonmadinee,” the daughter of “Rutundutt”:— +</p> +<p>“Her beauty was like a light in a dark house—her eyes were those of a deer, her curls +like female snakes, her eyebrows like a bow, her nose like a parrot’s, her teeth like +a string of pearls, her lips like the red gourds, her neck like a pigeon’s, her waist +like a leopard’s, her hands <span class="pageNum" id="pb322">[<a href="#pb322">322</a>]</span>and feet like a soft lotus, her face like the moon, with the gait of a goose, and +the voice of a cuckoo!” +</p> +<div class="figure p322width" id="p322"><img src="images/p322.jpg" alt="Fukeer of Solomon’s Throne." width="537" height="466" /></div><p> +</p> +<p>More apparent even than in the earthly nature of the Hindoo’s conception of the Divine +attributes, the falsity and the human origin of his Faith may be seen in the effect +it produces wherever it is allowed to obtain undivided sway. Combining dirt, idleness, +and religion together, the Hindoo Fukeer, attired in the minutest rag of raiment, +at times in none at all, wanders from <span class="pageNum" id="pb323">[<a href="#pb323">323</a>]</span>place to place, and with long and matted hair, blood-shot haggard eyes, and scowling +visage, fancies himself upon the path which leads direct to Paradise. +</p> +<p>Attenuated to the last degree, he suffers all extremes of heat and cold, sleeps upon +a bed of ashes, and sits moodily beneath the burning mid-day sun, lives on charity +while scorning usually to ask for alms, and bears the reputation of a saint while +reducing himself to the very level of the beasts that perish. +</p> +<p>Something of the cheerful feelings which actuate these religious mendicants may be +found in the following passage:—“He may be called a wise ‘Jogee,’ or ‘Fukeer,’ who +has dried up the reservoir of hope with the fire of austere devotion, and who has +subdued his mind, and kept the organs of sense in their proper place; and this is +the condition of persons in this world, that their bodies undergo dissolution, their +heads shake, and their teeth fall out. When men become old, they walk about with sticks, +and it is thus that time passes away. Night succeeds day, and year succeeds month, +and old age succeeds childhood, and we know not who we are ourselves, and who others +are; one comes and another departs; and at last all living creatures must depart. +And, behold! night <span class="pageNum" id="pb324">[<a href="#pb324">324</a>]</span>passes away, and then day dawns; the moon goes down and the sun rises; thus does youth +depart, and old age comes on, and thus Time pursues his course: but although man sees +all these things, he does not become wise. There are bodies of many kinds, and minds +of many kinds, and affections or fascinations of many kinds, and Brahma has created +wickedness of many kinds; but a wise man, having escaped from these, and having subdued +hope and avarice, and shaved his head, and taken a stick and water-pot in his hands, +having subjugated the passion of love and anger, and become a ‘Jogee,’ who wanders +and travels about with naked feet to places of pilgrimage, obtains final liberation. +And, behold, this world is like a dream.” +</p> +<p>The derivation of the word “Fukeer,” and an illustration of the disposition of the +mendicant race, is given in a Persian tale, called the “Four Dervishes.” The story was originally narrated to amuse a king of Delhi, who was sick, and was +afterwards <i>done</i> into Hindostanee by a Mussulman author, who styles himself, “This wicked sinner, +Meer Ammun of Delhi.” +</p> +<p>The speaker, a certain prince, who aspires to the title of “generous,” has built a +lofty house, with forty high and spacious doors, where, at all <span class="pageNum" id="pb325">[<a href="#pb325">325</a>]</span>times, from morning to evening, he gives rupees and gold mohurs<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e4064src" href="#xd30e4064">1</a> to the poor and necessitous, and whoever asks for anything he satisfies him. “One +day a Fukeer came to the front door and begged. I gave him a gold mohur; again he +came to a second door, and asked for two gold mohurs. I passed over the matter, and +gave him two gold mohurs. +</p> +<p>“In this manner he came to every door, and asked for an additional gold mohur each +time, and I gave him according to his request. Having come to the fortieth door, and +received forty gold mohurs, he came in again by the first door, and begged afresh. +</p> +<p>“This appeared to me a very bad action on his part. I said to him, ‘O avaricious man! +what sort of mendicant art thou, who knowest not the three letters of “Fukur” (<i>poverty</i>), according to which a Fukeer should act?’ The Fukeer said, ‘Well, O liberal person, +do you explain them to me.’ I replied, ‘The three letters are <i>f, k,</i> and <i>r.</i> From <i>f</i> comes “faka” (<i>fasting</i>); from <i>k,</i> “kinaüt” (<i>contentment</i>); and from <i>r</i> comes “reeazut” (<i>abstinence</i>). He is not a Fukeer in whom these qualities are not. Oh, avaricious creature! you +have taken from forty doors, from one gold mohur to forty. Calculate, <span class="pageNum" id="pb326">[<a href="#pb326">326</a>]</span>therefore, how many you have received. And, in addition to this, your avarice has +brought you again to the first door. Expend what you have received, and return and +take whatever you ask for. A Fukeer should take thought for one day; on the second +day there will be some fresh bestower of alms.’ Having heard this speech of mine, +he became angry and dissatisfied, and threw all he had received from me on the ground, +and said, ‘Enough, father; be not so warm; take all your presents back again. Do not +again assume the name of “Liberal.” You cannot lift the weights of liberality. When +will you arrive at that day’s journey?’ +</p> +<p>“When I heard this I was alarmed, and with many solicitations asked him to forgive +my fault, and to take whatsoever he wished. He would not accept my gifts at all, and +went away saying, ‘If you were now to offer me your whole kingdom I would not receive +it from you.’ ” +</p> +<p>This studied indifference about a matter of more than a thousand pounds, though perhaps +not often exercised upon so large a scale, is just that which these wandering fanatics +display towards every offering they receive, and in every action of their useless +lives. Whatever may be said against them, however, their profession of poverty and +suffering is no mockery, as was that <span class="pageNum" id="pb327">[<a href="#pb327">327</a>]</span>of the well-fed “monks of old,” whose reasonings were something similar on religious +points. +</p> +<p>The Fukeer soliloquizes: “The condition of our being born is, that our griefs are +many and our pleasures few, because this world is the root of misery. What happiness, +therefore, has man? If any man should climb to the top of a tree, or sit down on the +summit of a hill, or remain concealed in water, yet death does not allow him to escape. +At the most, man’s age is a hundred years, half of which passes away in night, half +of the other half is expended in childhood and old age; the remainder is spent in +altercation, separation from those we love, and affliction, and the soul is restless +as a wave of the sea. No one who has come into the world has escaped from affliction. +It is vain to fix one’s affections on it, and therefore it is best to cultivate and +practise religion.” And so, as a remedy for the evil which he has discovered to exist +upon the earth, and to work out a successful escape from it, he sits himself down +in dust and ashes, and, mistaking the sign-post, adopts the path which leads him furthest +from the point he wishes to arrive at. +</p> +<p>As the Hindoo is the most ancient of religions, so the Buddhist is the one which is +professed by the largest portion of the human race. It is the <span class="pageNum" id="pb328">[<a href="#pb328">328</a>]</span>religion of Burmah, Ceylon, China, Siam, Thibet, and Russian Tartary, and is computed +to claim as many as three hundred and sixty-nine millions among its Votaries.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e4101src" href="#xd30e4101">2</a> “Gautama,” or “Sakya mounee,” its founder, was born in Bengal about the seventh century +before Christ. Yet India at present contains no modern temples of its worship, and +no native of India, that I have ever met, knew anything of its founder, or was even +acquainted with the term “Buddha,” or “Buddhist.” Its doctrines are the most curious +of those that have ever been promulgated, and appear even now to be scarcely understood +in all their ramifications. According to original Buddhism, there is no Creator, nor +being that is self-existent and eternal. The great object is the attainment, in this +life, of complete abstraction from all worldly affairs and passions, and the ultimate +result, of entire annihilation. Like the Hindoo, the Buddhist believes in transmigration +of souls, and until utter annihilation is reached, he is doomed to shift his earthly +tenement, from form to form, according to the deeds done in the flesh. It is, therefore, +the great object of all beings, who would be released from the sorrows of successive +birth, to seek the destruction of the moral cause of continued existence, that is, +the cleaving to <span class="pageNum" id="pb329">[<a href="#pb329">329</a>]</span>existing objects or evil desire. It is only possible to accomplish this end by attending +to a prescribed course of discipline, and by fixing the mind upon the perfections +of Buddha. Those who after successive births have entirely destroyed all evil desires +are called “Rahuts,” and after death the Rahut attains “Nirwana,” or ceases to exist. +The actual meaning of the word “Rahut,” is “Tranquillity,” and it appears to be the +same word which is used on a small scale, to express the soothing qualities of that +far-famed Eastern sweetmeat, the Rahut-lûkma, or “Morsels of tranquillity.” +</p> +<p>The Buddhas themselves are beings who appear after intervals of time inconceivably +vast. Previous to their reception of the state, they pass through countless phases +of being, at, one time appearing in human form, at another as a frog, or fish, &c., +in each of which states they acquire a greater degree of merit. +</p> +<p>In the birth in which they become Buddha, they are always of woman born, and pass +through infancy and youth like ordinary mortals, until at the prescribed age they +abandon the world and retire to the wilderness, where they receive the supernatural +powers with which the office is endowed. Their highest glory is that they receive +the wisdom by which they can direct <span class="pageNum" id="pb330">[<a href="#pb330">330</a>]</span>sentient beings to the path that leads to the desired cessation of existence. +</p> +<p>The Buddhism of Thibet appears to be an innovation on the original system of religion. +It was introduced into the country about the seventh century of our era; and although +Sakya mounee, who is supposed by the Thibetians to have lived one thousand years before +Christ, is still believed to be the founder of the present system, the Delai Lama, +at Lassa, is regarded as an incarnation of Buddha, and is the supreme infallible head +of the whole Thibetian religious community. +</p> +<p>The original tenets, too, have been modified, and the modern Scriptures have been +adapted to three different capacities of mankind—viz. the lowest, mean (or middle), +and the highest. The principles thus declared are as follows:— +</p> +<p>“1. Men of vulgar capacity must believe that there is a God, a future life, and that +they shall therein reap the fruits of their works in this life. +</p> +<p>“2. Those that are in a middle degree of intellectual and moral capacity, besides +admitting the former position, must know that every compound thing is perishable, +that there is no reality in things, that every imperfection is pain, and that deliverance +from pain or bodily existence is final happiness. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb331">[<a href="#pb331">331</a>]</span></p> +<p>“3. Those of the highest capacities, besides the above enumerated articles, must know +that, from the body to the supreme soul, nothing is existing by itself, neither can +it be said that it will continue always or cease absolutely, but that everything exists +by a dependant or casual connexion.”<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e4120src" href="#xd30e4120">3</a> +</p> +<p>One cause of the extension of the religion of Buddha appears to be the broad basis +upon which admission to the priesthood has ‘been placed. No one can become a Brahmin +except by birth, but the privileges of becoming a Lama are open to all who are willing +to receive them upon the conditions implied in their acceptance. The principal duties +to be attended to, by one about to become a priest, are thus laid down:—“He who, with +a firm faith in the religion of Truth, believes in Buddha, shall rise before daylight, +and, having cleaned his teeth, shall then sweep all the places appointed to be swept +in the vicinity of the ‘Vihara,’ or monastery; after which he shall fetch the water +that is required for use, filter it, and place it ready for drinking. When this is +done, he shall retire to a solitary place, and for the space of three hours meditate +on the obligations of his vow. The bell will then ring, and he must reflect that greater +than <span class="pageNum" id="pb332">[<a href="#pb332">332</a>]</span>the gift of 100 elephants, 100 horses, and 100 chariots, is the reward of him who +takes one step towards the place where worship is offered. Thus reflecting, he shall +approach the ‘Dagoba,’ where relics of holy men are placed, and perform that which +is appointed; he shall offer flowers just as if Buddha were present in person, meditate +on the nine virtues of Buddha with a fixed and determined mind, and seek forgiveness +for his faults, just as if the sacred relics were endowed with life. He shall then +meditate on the advantages to be derived from carrying the alms-bowl and putting on +the yellow robe.” The injunctions on the priesthood relative to their abstracting +their thoughts and desires from all earthly matters whatever, are of the strictest +nature. “The door of the eye is to be kept shut. When the outer gates of the city +are left open, though the door of every separate house and store be shut, the enemy +will enter the city and take possession; in like manner, though all the ordinances +be kept, if the eye be permitted to wander, affection for worldly objects will be +produced.” A story is told of a priest named Chittagutta, who resided once in a cave, +upon the walls of which the history of Buddha was painted “in the finest style of +art.” +</p> +<p>The cave was visited by some priests, who <span class="pageNum" id="pb333">[<a href="#pb333">333</a>]</span>expressed their admiration of the paintings to Chittagutta, but the devotee replied +that he had lived there sixty years and had never seen them, nor would he, except +for their information, ever have become aware of their existence. There was near the +door of his cave a spreading tree; but he only knew that it was there by the fall +of its leaves or flowers; the tree itself he never saw, as he carefully observed the +precept not to look upwards, or to a distance! +</p> +<p>The priest of Buddha must possess but eight articles: three of these are matters of +dress; the others, a girdle for the loins, an alms-bowl, a razor, a needle, and a +water-strainer. The bowl receives the food presented in alms; the razor is for shaving +the head; the needle keeps his yellow wardrobe in order; and the water-strainer is +the most serviceable of all, for “if any priest shall knowingly drink water containing +insects, he shall be ejected from the priesthood.” +</p> +<p>The Dagobas, or shrines of relics, which abound in such numbers in Thibet, have also +been found in India and other countries. Some of them when opened have been found +to contain what appears to be remains of a funeral pile, also vessels of stone or +metal, and, occasionally, caskets of silver and gold, curiously wrought. “Some of +these have been chased with a series <span class="pageNum" id="pb334">[<a href="#pb334">334</a>]</span>of four figures, representing Buddha in the act of preaching; a mendicant is on his +right, a lay follower on his left, and behind the latter a female disciple.” This +somewhat describes the appearance of the stone-carved figures at the monastery of +Hemis.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e4139src" href="#xd30e4139">4</a> These caskets have been set with rubies and chased with the leaves of the lotus. +Besides these have also been found small pearls, gold buttons, rings, beads, pieces +of clay and stone bearing impressions of figures, bits of bone, and teeth of animals, +pieces of cloth, &c. The images are sometimes recumbent, at other times standing upright, +with the hand uplifted in the act of giving instruction. Sometimes they have three +heads and six or more arms. +</p> +<p>In order to form clear and accurate ideas of the religion of Buddha, it would be necessary +to study a vast number of volumes, some of them contradictory and of very doubtful +authority, and the result would appear hardly to compensate for the trouble, so altered +has modern Buddhism become from ancient, and into so many different systems has it +been divided in the many different countries in which it is professed. Among its doctrines +there is much that is virtuous and true. It preaches benevolence and goodwill towards +men, but enjoins <span class="pageNum" id="pb335">[<a href="#pb335">335</a>]</span>no active efforts to prove the sincerity of such goodwill. It requires its members +to “confess their sins with a contrite heart, to ask forgiveness of them, and to repent +truly, with a resolution not to commit such again. To rejoice in the moral merit and +perfection of human beings, and to wish that they may attain beatitude; further, to +pray and exhort others to turn the wheel of religion, that the world may be benefited +thereby.” Its general aim seems to be to overcome all emotions and preferences of +the mind, and all that would disturb its repose and quiet. It seeks to destroy the +human passions and not to regulate them; and with faith in Buddha only as its aid, +it succeeds about as well as might have been anticipated. +</p> +<p>Between these two religions of Brahma and Buddha, that of the “Jains” sprang up, apparently +a heresy from both. It has nearly died out in India, though many ruins of its temples +remain. The Jains agree with the Buddhists as to the transmigration of souls, and +carry their respect for life to the still greater extent, that besides a strainer +to remove all animalculæ from the water they imbibe, they carry a broom to sweep away +the insects from their path. They differ from the Brahmins in repudiating their minor +incarnations and gods, as the following <span class="pageNum" id="pb336">[<a href="#pb336">336</a>]</span>translation will serve to show:—“A rajah, of the name of Gondshekur, had a minister, +Abhûechund, who converted him to the Jain religion. He prohibited the worship of Vishnu, +and all gifts of cows, land, and balls of flour and rice, and would not allow any +one to carry away bones to the Ganges. One day the minister began to say, ‘O great +king, be pleased to listen to the judgments and explanations of religion: Whosoever +takes another’s life, that other takes his life in another world. The birth of a man +after he has again come into the world does not escape from this sin; he is born again +and again, and dies again and again. For this reason it is right for a man, who has +been born in the world, to cultivate religion. Behold! Brahma, Vishnu, and Mahadeo, +being under the influence of love, anger, and fascination, descend upon the earth +in various ways; but a cow is superior to them all, for it is free from anger, enmity, +intoxication, rage, avarice, and inordinate affection, and affords protection to the +subject; and her sons also behave kindly to, and cherish the animals of the earth, +and therefore all the gods and sages regard the cow with respect. For this reason, +it is not right to regard the gods—in this world, respect the cow. It is virtuous +to protect all animals, from <span class="pageNum" id="pb337">[<a href="#pb337">337</a>]</span>the elephant to the ant, and from beasts and birds to man. In the world there is no +act so impious as for men to increase their own flesh by eating the flesh of other +creatures. They who do not sympathise in the griefs of animated beings, and who kill +and eat other animals, do not live long on the earth, and are born lame, maimed, blind, +dwarfs, and humpbacked, &c.; and it is a great sin to drink wine and eat flesh; wherefore +to do so is improper. The minister, having thus explained his sentiments to the rajah, +converted him to the Jain religion, so that he did whatever the minister said, and +no longer paid any respect to Brahmins, Fukeers, Jogies, Dervishes, &c., and carried +on his government according to this religion.” +</p> +<div class="figure p336width" id="p336"><img src="images/p336.jpg" alt="Ancient Jain Temple." width="720" height="436" /><div class="figAnnotation p336width"><span class="figBottomLeft">W.H.K. Delt.</span><span class="figTop"> </span><span class="figBottomRight">Hanhart, Lith.</span></div> +<p class="figureHead">Ancient Jain Temple.</p> +</div><p> +</p> +<p>Next among the religions of the East, whose outward observances so forcibly attract +attention, comes that of the Moslem—“The marvellous reformation wrought by Mahomet +and the Koran in the manners, morals, and religious feelings of so many millions.” +</p> +<p>Mahomet, in truth, although “<i>The</i> False Prophet,” would appear to have been a considerable benefactor to his species. +The Arabs, at the time of his birth, were sunk in idolatry and the worship of the +stars, while their morals <span class="pageNum" id="pb338">[<a href="#pb338">338</a>]</span>were under no control either of law or religion. The Prophet’s aim appears, in the +first instance, to have been, to secure a system of orderly government, and at the +same time to gain, for his own family, a dignity which should be exalted beyond all +fear of competition—the dignity of lordship over the holy city of Mecca. This was +then held under no higher tenure than the sufferance and caprice of the Arab tribes. +To perpetuate this lordship by assuming an hereditary and inviolable pontificate was +Mahomet’s first idea, and at a banquet given to the whole of his kinsmen he revealed +his scheme. They, however, rejected his appeal, and he then proclaimed himself as +an apostle to all, and setting aside existing forms and traditions proceeded to a +higher flight of ambition. For election by blood, he substituted election of God; +and assuming a direct revelation from on high, he, by force of an ardent and ambitious +will, carried out his project even at Mecca itself, where, to all who visited his +shrine, he preached without distinction. From the powerful opposition brought against +him, Mahomet was at last obliged to fly; but before doing so, and casting off the +high position he held among his own tribe and kinsmen, he assembled his followers +<span class="pageNum" id="pb339">[<a href="#pb339">339</a>]</span>together on a mountain near Mecca, and there, without distinction of blood or calling, +he enrolled them as equal followers in one community, and entered with them into a +solemn and binding agreement. “That night Mahomet fled from Mecca to Medina, and then +took its rise a pontificate, an empire, and an era.” This hegira, or “flight,” is +believed to have occurred on the 19th June, <span class="asc">A.D.</span> 622<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e4172src" href="#xd30e4172">5</a> but has been variously stated; it is, however, the era now in general use among no +less than one hundred and sixty millions of people. +</p> +<p>Although himself an undoubted impostor, and the Koran a manifest forgery, Mahomet +would appear to deserve a larger share of appreciation, or at least of charitable +judgment, than he usually receives. +</p> +<p>“He was one richly furnished with natural endowments, showing liberality to the poor, +courtesy to every one, fortitude in trial, and, above all, a high reverence for the +name of God. He was a preacher of patience, charity, mercy, beneficence, gratitude, +honouring of parents and superiors, and a frequent celebrator of Divine praise.” The +great doctrine of the Koran is the Unity of God, and in this creed Mahomet <span class="pageNum" id="pb340">[<a href="#pb340">340</a>]</span>himself seems to have been a sincere believer. “Its design was to unite the professors +of the three different religions then followed in Arabia—who for the most part were +without guides, the greater number being idolaters, and the rest Jews and Christians, +mostly of erroneous and heterodox belief—in the knowledge and worship of one eternal +and invisible God, and to bring them to obedience of Mahomet as the only prophet and +ambassador of the truth.” The “fatiha,” or opening chapter of the Koran, is said to +contain the essence of the whole, and forms part of the daily prayers of all zealous +Mussulmans. It commences with the formula pronounced at the beginning of their reading +on all occasions whenever an animal is slaughtered for food, and upon the undertaking +of all important actions whatever: +</p> +<blockquote> +<p class="first">“In the name of God, the merciful, the compassionate. Praise be to God, the Lord of +the Creation, the all-merciful, the all-compassionate! Ruler of the day of reckoning! +</p> +<p>“Thee we worship, and Thee we invoke for help. Lead us in the straight path—the path +of those upon whom thou hast been gracious, not of those that are the objects of wrath +or that are in error.”</p> +</blockquote><p> +</p> +<p>The Moslem faithful pray five times in the twenty-four hours: in the morning before +sunrise, <span class="pageNum" id="pb341">[<a href="#pb341">341</a>]</span>at noon, before sunset, after sunset, and before the first watch of the night: and +that these observances were not originally instituted merely that their prayers might +be seen before men, would appear from the injunction which lays down that “what is +principally to be regarded in the duty of prayer, is the inward disposition of the +heart, which is its entire life and spirit, the most punctual observance being of +no avail if performed without devotion, reverence, attention, and hope.” +</p> +<p>Prayer was held by Mahomet to be the “pillar of religion” and the “key of paradise,” +and in the performance of it, his disciples are enjoined to lay aside their ornaments +and costly habits, and all that might savour of either pride or arrogance. +</p> +<p>Its observance, however, at five stated times appears to be nowhere mentioned in the +Koran, although the custom is now an essential part, and the most noticeable and characteristic +feature of Mahomedanism. +</p> +<p>Saints and sinners join equally in the form. A crime just committed, or one in immediate +contemplation, in no way interferes with the “five-time prayers,” and the neglect +of them amounts to an abnegation of the Faith. The <span class="pageNum" id="pb342">[<a href="#pb342">342</a>]</span>summons to prayer was originally only one sentence, “To public prayer.” Mahomet, however, +afterwards bethought himself that a more elaborate and striking call would be an improvement, +and the present “Azzan,” or call to prayer, was introduced. +</p> +<p>While the matter was under discussion, Mahomet being unable to decide upon any suitable +form, a certain Abdallah dreamed that he met a man arrayed in green raiment carrying +a bell. Abdallah sought to buy it, thinking it would just suit the Prophet for assembling +together the Faithful. The stranger, however, replied, “I will show you a better way +than that; let a crier call aloud— +</p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“Great is the Lord! great is the Lord! +</p> +<p class="line">I bear witness that there is no God but the Lord; +</p> +<p class="line">I bear witness that Mahomet is the Prophet of God! +</p> +<p class="line">Come unto prayer, come unto happiness— +</p> +<p class="line">God is great! God is great! There is no God but the Lord!”</p> +</div> +<p class="first">Mahomet, learning the particulars of Abdallah’s dream, believed it to have been a +vision from on high, and sent his servant forthwith to execute the Divine command. +Ascending to the top of a lofty house, this first of established Mûezzins, on the +earliest appearance of light, startled all <span class="pageNum" id="pb343">[<a href="#pb343">343</a>]</span>around from their slumbers with the newly-adopted call, adding to it, “Prayer is better +than sleep! Prayer is better than sleep!” And ever since, at the customary five hours, +have his successors thus summoned the people to their devotions. +</p> +<p>Concerning the future state, the Mahomedan believes that all will be examined at the +day of Judgment as to their words and actions in this life. +</p> +<p>“Their time, as to how they spent it; their wealth, by what means they acquired it, +and how they employed it; their bodies, wherein they exercised them; their knowledge +and learning, what use they made of them,” &c. “They enter Paradise, however, not +by their own good works, but by the mercy of God. At that day each person will make +his defence in the best manner he can, endeavouring to find excuses for his own conduct +by casting blame on others; so much so, that disputes shall even arise between the +Soul and Body. The Soul saying, “Lord, I was created without a hand to lay hold with, +a foot to walk with, an eye to see with, or an understanding to apprehend with, until +I came and entered the Body: therefore punish it, but deliver me.” The Body, on the +<span class="pageNum" id="pb344">[<a href="#pb344">344</a>]</span>other side, will make this apology, “Lord, thou createdst me like a stock of wood, +being neither able to hold with my hand, nor to walk with my feet, till this Soul, +like a ray of light, entered into me, and my tongue began to speak, my eye to see, +and my foot to walk: therefore punish it, but deliver me.” Then shall the following +parable be propounded:—“A certain king having a pleasant garden, in which were ripe +fruits, set two persons to keep it, one of whom was blind, and the other lame—the +former not being able to see the fruit, nor the latter to gather it. The lame man, +however, seeing the fruit, persuaded the blind man to take him on his shoulders; and +by that means he easily gathered the fruits, which they divided between them. The +lord of the garden coming some time after, and inquiring after the fruit, each began +to excuse himself; the blind man said he had no eyes to see it with, and the lame +man that he had no feet to approach the trees. Then the king, ordering the lame man +to be set on the blind, passed sentence on them both, and punished them together. +</p> +<p>“In like manner shall be judged the Body and the Soul.” +</p> +<p>Such are some few of the religious tenets of <span class="pageNum" id="pb345">[<a href="#pb345">345</a>]</span>those among whom one’s lot is cast while wandering in the East. Sunk for the most +part in ignorance, and held as infidels for wanting faith in what they never heard, +they nevertheless attract attention chiefly by their Faith, and by their zealous worship +of the Being, whom, although in darkest ignorance as to His attributes and laws, their +original creed would teach them to believe the one Eternal God. +</p> +<p>Some idea of the number represented by these different sects may be derived from the +following table:— +</p> +<div class="table"> +<table> +<tr> +<td rowspan="3" class="rowspan cellLeft cellTop xd30e4226">Asiatic Religions </td> +<td rowspan="3" class="rowspan leftbrace cellTop"><img src="images/lbrace3.png" alt="{" width="18" height="60" /></td> +<td class="cellTop">Buddhists </td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellTop">369,000,000 </td> +<td class="cellRight cellTop"></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Hindoos </td> +<td class="xd30e3339">231,000,000 </td> +<td class="cellRight"></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Mussulmen </td> +<td class="xd30e3339">160,000,000 </td> +<td class="cellRight"></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td rowspan="3" class="rowspan cellLeft xd30e4226">Christians </td> +<td rowspan="3" class="rowspan leftbrace"><img src="images/lbrace3.png" alt="{" width="18" height="60" /></td> +<td>Roman Catholics </td> +<td class="xd30e3339">170,000,000 </td> +<td class="cellRight"></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Protestants </td> +<td class="xd30e3339"> 80,000,000 </td> +<td class="cellRight"></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>Greek Church </td> +<td class="xd30e3339"> 76,000,000 </td> +<td class="cellRight"></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3" class="colspan cellLeft">Jews +</td> +<td class="xd30e3339"> 5,000,000 </td> +<td class="cellRight"></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3" class="colspan cellLeft cellBottom">Other Religions +</td> +<td class="xd30e3339 cellBottom">200,000,000 </td> +<td class="cellRight cellBottom"> <a class="noteRef" id="xd30e4283src" href="#xd30e4283">6</a></td> +</tr> +</table> +</div><p> +</p> +<p>And when we reflect how great is the proportion of those who sit in darkness, and +that “even all who tread the earth are but a handful to the tribes that slumber in +its bosom,” it is but natural to consider what our own belief would <span class="pageNum" id="pb346">[<a href="#pb346">346</a>]</span>bid us hold as to the future destiny of so large a portion of the human family. +</p> +<p>At the same time, the question, “Are there few that be saved?” not having been answered +eighteen centuries ago, would appear to be one to which no definite reply was intended +to be rendered, and which might well be left till now unanswered, by those who hold +the religion of Faith, Hope, and Charity. When, however, the Church to which we belong +boldly affirms, in words<span id="xd30e4292"></span> which as the public profession of its faith, should be beyond all doubt or misconception +by either friend or foe, that none <i>can</i> be saved but those who hold the Catholic Faith, as she would have them hold it, then, +at least, we may fairly consider the matter so far as to doubt whether the answer +thus forced upon us is one which, even on such high authority, we are bound to accept. +Before, at least, concurring in a solution of the question which, thus virtually bringing +it within the limits of a simple arithmetical calculation, would summarily dispose +of so many millions of the human race, we may remember that some things have been +taught as possible which men, and even saints, may deem impossible; and, before attempting +to reduce “goodwill toward men” to human and determinable proportions, we <span class="pageNum" id="pb347">[<a href="#pb347">347</a>]</span>may also remember that “good tidings of great joy” were promised to <i>all</i> people, and that they may possibly prove therefore to have in some way benefited +even those who have never heard them with their mortal ears. +</p> +<p>Meanwhile, in the matter of “Turks and Infidels,” we may perhaps learn something even +from an Infidel creed, and, borrowing a definition from the religion of Islam, may +be allowed to hold with it, that +</p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">“Truly to despair of the goodness of God—this is ‘<i>Infidelity.</i>’ ”</p> +</div> +<p class="first"></p> +<div class="figure p347width"><img src="images/p347.png" alt="Ornament with Arabic text." width="523" height="349" /></div><p> +</p> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep" /> +<div id="xd30e4064"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e4064src">1</a></span> A coin of the value of thirty-two shillings. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e4064src" title="Return to note 1 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e4101"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e4101src">2</a></span> Hardy’s “Eastern Monachisms.” <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e4101src" title="Return to note 2 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e4120"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e4120src">3</a></span> Csoma de <span class="corr" id="xd30e4122" title="Source: Koros">Kőrös</span>. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e4120src" title="Return to note 3 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e4139"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e4139src">4</a></span> <i>Vide</i> page 202. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e4139src" title="Return to note 4 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e4172"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e4172src">5</a></span> Muir’s “Life of Mahomet.” <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e4172src" title="Return to note 5 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e4283"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e4283src">6</a></span> M. Dietrici. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e4283src" title="Return to note 6 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div class="back"> +<div id="appa" class="div1 appendix"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#xd30e320">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Appendix A.</h2> +<h2 class="main">The Temples of Cashmere.</h2> +<div class="argument"> +<p class="first">Extract from “An Essay on the Arian Order of Architecture, as exhibited in the Temples +of Kashmír,” by <span class="sc">Capt. A. Cunningham.</span> “Journal of the Asiatic Society,” Vol. XVII.</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">The architectural remains of Kashmír are perhaps the most remarkable of the existing +monuments of India, as they exhibit undoubted traces of the influence of Grecian art. +The Hindú temple is generally a sort of architectural pasty, a huge collection of +ornamental fritters, huddled together with or without keeping; while the “Jain” temple +is usually a vast forest of pillars, made to look as unlike one another as possible, +by some paltry differences in their petty details. +</p> +<p>On the other hand, the Kashmirian fanes are distinguished by the graceful elegance +of their outlines, by the massive boldness of their parts, and by the happy propriety +of their decorations. +</p> +<p>They cannot, indeed, vie with the severe simplicity of the Parthenon, but they possess +great beauty—different, indeed, yet quite their own. +</p> +<p>The characteristic features of the Kashmirian architecture are its lofty pyramidal +roofs, its trefoiled doorways, <span class="pageNum" id="pb352">[<a href="#pb352">352</a>]</span>covered by pyramidal pediments, and the great width of the intercolumniations. +</p> +<p>Most of the Kashmirian temples are more or less injured, but more particularly those +at Wantipúr, which are mere heaps of ruins. Speaking of these temples, Trebeck says: +“It is scarcely possible to imagine that the state of ruin to which they have been +reduced has been the work of time, or even of man, as their solidity is fully equal +to that of the most massive monuments of Egypt. Earthquakes must have been the cause +of their overthrow.” In my opinion, their <i>overthrow</i> is too complete to have been the result of an earthquake, which would have simply +<i>prostrated</i> the buildings in large masses. But the whole of the superstructure of these temples +is now lying in one confused heap of stones, totally disjointed from one another. +</p> +<p>I believe, therefore, that I am fully justified in saying, from my own experience, +that such a complete and <i>disruptive overturn</i> could only have been produced by gunpowder. +</p> +<p>The destruction of the Kashmirian temples is universally attributed, both by history +and by tradition, to the bigoted Sikander. (<span class="asc">A.D.</span> 1396.) He was reigning at the period of Timúr’s invasion of India, with whom he exchanged +friendly presents, and from whom, I suppose, he may have received a present of the +<i><span class="corr" id="xd30e4346" title="Source: villanous">villainous</span> saltpetre.</i> +</p> +<p>As it would appear that the Turks had <i>metal</i> cannon at the siege of Constantinople in 1422, I think it no great stretch of probability to suppose that gunpowder itself had +been carried into the East, even as far as Kashmír, at least ten or twenty years earlier—that +is, about <span class="asc">A.D.</span> 1400 to 1420, or certainly during the reign of Sikander, who died in 1416. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb353">[<a href="#pb353">353</a>]</span></p> +<p>Even if this be not admitted, I still adhere to my opinion, that the complete ruin +of the Wantipúr temples could only have been effected by gunpowder; and I would, then, +ascribe their overthrow to the bigoted “Aurungzíb.” +</p> +<p>“Ferishta” attributed to Sikander the demolition of all the Kashmirian temples save +one, which was dedicated to Mahadeo, and which only escaped “in consequence of its +foundations being below the surface of the neighbouring water.” +</p> +<p>In <span class="asc">A.D.</span> 1580, “Abul Fazl” mentions that some of the idolatrous temples were in “perfect preservation;” +and Ferishta describes many of these temples as having been in existence in his own +time, or about <span class="asc">A.D.</span> 1600. +</p> +<p>As several are still standing, though more or less injured, it is certain that Sikander +could not have destroyed them all. He most likely gave orders that they should be +overturned; and I have no doubt that many of the principal temples were thrown down +during his reign. +</p> +<p>But, besides the ruthless hand of the destroyer, another agency, less immediate, but +equally certain in its ultimate effects, must have been at work upon the large temples +of Kashmír. The silent ravages of the destroyer, who carries away pillars and stone, +for the erection of other edifices, has been going on for centuries. Pillars, from +which the architraves have been thus removed, have been thrown down by earthquakes, +ready to be set up again for the decoration of the first Musjid that might be erected +in the neighbourhood. Thus every Mahomedan building in Kashmír is constructed either +entirely or in part of the ruins of Hindú temples. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb354">[<a href="#pb354">354</a>]</span></p> +<div class="div2 section"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">Takt I Sulíman.</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">The oldest temple in Kashmír, both in appearance and according to tradition, is that +upon the hill of “Takt i Sulíman,” or Solomon’s Throne. It stands 1,000 feet above +the plain, and commands a view of the greater part of Kashmír. +</p> +<p>The situation is a noble one, and must have been amongst the first throughout the +whole valley which was selected as the position of a temple. Its erection is ascribed +to Jaloka, the son of Asoka, who reigned about 220 B.C. +</p> +<p>The plan of the temple is octagonal, each side being fifteen feet in length. It is +approached by a flight of eighteen steps, eight feet in width, and inclosed between +two sloping walls. Its height cannot now be ascertained, as the present roof is a +modern plastered dome, which was probably built since the occupation of the country +by the Sikhs. The walls are eight feet thick, which I consider one of the strongest +proofs of the great antiquity of the building. +</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 section"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">Pándrethán.</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">This name means the old capital, or ancient chief town. The name has, however, been +spelt by different travellers in many different ways. “Moorcroft” calls it Pándenthán, +“Vigne” Pandrenton, and “Hugel” Pandriton. +</p> +<p>The building of this temple is recorded between <span class="asc">A.D.</span> 913 and 921; and it is afterwards mentioned between the years 958 and 972, as having escaped destruction when the King Abhimanyú—Nero-like—set fire to his +own capital. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb355">[<a href="#pb355">355</a>]</span></p> +<p>As this is the only temple situated in the old capital, there can be very little, +if any, doubt that it is the very same building which now exists. For as it is surrounded +by water, it was, of course, quite safe amid the fire, which reduced the other buildings +to mere masses of quicklime. +</p> +<p>Baron Hugel calls the Pándrethán edifice a “Buddhist temple,” and states that there +are some well-preserved Buddhist figures in the interior. But he is doubly mistaken, +for the temple was dedicated to Vishnú, and the figures in the inside have no connexion +with Buddhism. +</p> +<p>Trebeck swam into the interior, and could discover no figures of any kind; but as +the whole ceiling was formerly hidden by a coating of plaster, his statement was, +at that time, perfectly correct. +</p> +<p>The object of erecting the temples in the midst of water must have been to place them +more immediately under the protection of the Nágas, or human-bodied and snake-tailed +gods, who were zealously worshipped for ages through Kashmír. +</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 section"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">Márttand.</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Of all the existing remains of Kashmirian grandeur, the most striking in size and +situation is the noble ruin of Márttand. +</p> +<p>This majestic temple stands at the northern end of the elevated table-land of “Matan,” +about three miles to the eastward of Islámabád. +</p> +<p>This is undoubtedly the finest position in Kashmír. The temple itself is not now (1848) more than forty feet in height, but its solid walls and bold outlines towering <span class="pageNum" id="pb356">[<a href="#pb356">356</a>]</span>over the fluted pillars of the surrounding colonnade give it a most imposing appearance. +</p> +<p>There are no petty confused details; but all are distinct and massive, and most admirably +suited to the general character of the building. +</p> +<p>Many vain speculations have been hazarded regarding the date of the erection of this +temple and the worship to which it was appropriated. +</p> +<p>It is usually called the “House of the Pandús” by the Brahmins, and by the people +“Mattan.” +</p> +<p>The true appellation appears to be preserved in the latter, Matan being only a corruption +of the Sanscrit Márttand <span lang="sa" class="deva">मार्त्तण्ड</span>, or the sun, to which the temple was dedicated. +</p> +<p>The true date of the erection of this temple—the wonder of Kashmír—is a disputed point +of chronology; but the period of its foundation can be determined within the limits +of one century, or between <span class="asc">A.D.</span> 370 and 500. +</p> +<p>The mass of building now known by the name of Matan, or Márttand, consists of one +lofty central edifice, with a small detached wing on each side of the entrance, the +whole standing on a large quadrangle surrounded by a colonnade of fluted pillars, +with intervening trefoil-headed recesses. The central building is sixty-three feet +in length, by thirty-six in width. +</p> +<p>As the main building is at present entirely uncovered, the original form of the roof +can only be determined by a reference to other temples, and to the general form and +character of the various parts of the Márttand temple itself. +</p> +<p>The angle of the roof in the Temple of Pándrethán, and in other instances, is obtained +by making the sides of the pyramid which forms it parallel to the sides of the <span class="pageNum" id="pb357">[<a href="#pb357">357</a>]</span>doorway pediment, and in restoring the Temples of Patrun and Márttand I have followed +the same rule. +</p> +<p>The height of the Pándrethán temple—of the cloistered recesses, porch pediments, and +niches of Márttand itself—were all just double their respective widths. This agreement +in the relative proportions of my restored roof of Márttand with those deduced from +other examples, is a presumptive proof of the correctness of my restoration. The entrance-chamber +and the wings I suppose to have been also covered by similar pyramidal roofs. There +would thus have been four distinct pyramids, of which that over the inner chamber +must have been the loftiest, the height of its pinnacle above the ground being about +seventy-five feet. +</p> +<p>The interior must have been as imposing as the exterior. On ascending the flight of +steps—now covered by ruins—the votary of the sun entered a highly-decorated chamber, +with a doorway on each side covered by a pediment, with a trefoil-headed niche containing +a bust of the Hindú triad, and on the flanks of the main entrance, as well as on those +of the side doorways, were pointed and trefoil niches, each of which held a statue +of a Hindú divinity. +</p> +<p>The interior decorations of the roof can only be conjecturally determined, as I was +unable to discover any ornamented stones that could with certainty be assigned to +it. Baron Hugel doubts that Márttand ever had a roof; but, as the walls of the temple +are still standing, the numerous heaps of large stones that are scattered about on +all sides can only have belonged to the roof. +</p> +<p>I can almost fancy that the erection of this sun-temple was suggested by the magnificent +sunny prospect which its position commands. It overlooks the finest view in Kashmír, +and perhaps in the known world, Beneath it <span class="pageNum" id="pb358">[<a href="#pb358">358</a>]</span>lies the paradise of the East, with its sacred streams and cedarn glens, its brown +orchards and green fields, surrounded on all sides by vast snowy mountains, whose +lofty peaks seem to smile upon the beautiful valley below. The vast extent of the +scene makes it sublime; for this magnificent view of Kashmír is no petty peep into +a half-mile glen, but the full display of a valley sixty miles in breadth and upwards +of a hundred miles in length, the whole of which lies beneath “the ken of the wonderful +Márttand.” +</p> +<p>The principal buildings that still exist in Kashmír are entirely composed of a blue +limestone, which is capable of taking the highest polish—a property to which I mainly +attribute the beautiful state of preservation in which some of them at present exist. +</p> +<p>Even at first sight one is immediately struck by the strong resemblance which the +Kashmirian colonnades bear to the classic peristyles of Greece. Even the temples themselves, +with their porches and pediments, remind one more of Greece than of India; and it +is difficult to believe that a style of architecture which differs so much from all +Indian examples, and which has so much in common with those of Greece, could have +been indebted to chance alone for this striking resemblance. +</p> +<p>One great similarity between the Kashmirian architecture and that of the various Greek +orders is its stereotyped style, which, during the long flourishing period of several +centuries, remained unchanged. In this respect it is so widely different from the +ever-varying forms and plastic vagaries of the Hindú architecture that it is impossible +to conceive their evolution from a common origin. +</p> +<p>I feel convinced myself that several of the Kashmirian forms, and many of the details, +were borrowed from the temples of the Kabúlian Greeks, while the arrangements <span class="pageNum" id="pb359">[<a href="#pb359">359</a>]</span>of the interior and the relative proportions of the different parts were of Hindú +origin. Such, in fact, must necessarily have been the case with imitations by Indian +workmen, which would naturally have been engrafted upon the indigenous architecture. +The general arrangements would still remain Indian, while many of the details, and +even some of the larger forms, might be of foreign origin. +</p> +<p>As a whole, I think that the Kashmirian architecture, with its noble fluted pillars, +its vast colonnades, its lofty pediments, and its elegant trefoiled arches, is fully +entitled to be classed as a distinct style. I have therefore ventured to call it the +Arian order—a name to which it has a double right; first, because it was the style +of the Aryas, or Arians, of Kashmír; and, secondly, because its intercolumniations +are always of four diameters—an interval which the Greeks called Araiostyle. +</p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 section"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">Extract from Vigne’s “Travels in Kashmír.”</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">The Hindú temple of Márttand is commonly called the House of the Pandús. Of the Pandús +it is only necessary to say that they are the Cyclopes of the East. Every old building, +of whose origin the poorer class of Hindús in general have no information, is believed +to have been the work of the Pandús. As an isolated ruin, this deserves, on account +of its solitary and massive grandeur, to be ranked not only as the first ruin of the +kind in Kashmír, but as one of the noblest among the architectural relics of antiquity +that are to be seen in any country. Its noble and exposed situation at the foot of +the hills reminded <span class="pageNum" id="pb360">[<a href="#pb360">360</a>]</span>me of that of the Escurial. It has no forest of cork-trees and evergreen-oaks before +it, nor is it to be compared, in point of size, with that stupendous building; but +it is visible from as great a distance. And the Spanish sierra cannot for a moment +be placed in competition with the verdant magnificence of the mountain-scenery of +Kashmír. +</p> +<p>Few of the Kashmirian temples, if any, I should say, were Buddhist. Those in or upon +the edge of the water were rather, I should suppose, referable to the worship of the +Nágas, or snake-gods. The figures in all the temples are almost always in an erect +position, and I have never been able to discover any inscription in those now remaining. +</p> +<p>I had been struck with the great general resemblance which the temple bore to the +recorded disposition of the Ark and its surrounding curtains, in imitation of which +the Temple at Jerusalem was built; and it became for a moment a question whether the +Kashmirian temples had not been built by Jewish architects, who had recommended them +to be constructed on the same plan for the sake of convenience merely. It is, however, +a curious fact, that in Abyssinia, the ancient Ethiopia, which was also called “Kush,” +the ancient Christian churches are not unlike those of Kashmír, and that they were +originally built in imitation of the temple, by the Israelites who followed the Queen +of Sheba, whose son took possession of the throne of Kush, where his descendants are +at this moment Kings of Abyssinia. +</p> +<p>Without being able to boast, either in extent or magnificence, of an approach to equality +with the temple of the sun at Palmyra, or the ruins of the palace at Persepolis, Márttand +is not without pretensions to a locality of <span class="pageNum" id="pb361">[<a href="#pb361">361</a>]</span>scarcely inferior interest, and deserves to be ranked with them as the leading specimen +of a gigantic style of architecture that has decayed with the religion it was intended +to cherish, and the prosperity of a country it could not but adorn. +</p> +<p>In situation it is far superior to either. Palmyra is surrounded by an ocean of sand, +and Persepolis overlooks a marsh; but the temple of the sun in Márttand is built upon +a natural platform at the foot of some of the noblest mountains, and beneath its ken +lies what is undoubtedly the finest and the most <i>prononcé</i> valley in the known world. +</p> +<p>We are not looking upon the monuments of the dead. We step not aside to inspect a +tomb, or pause to be saddened by an elegy. The noble pile in the foreground is rather +an emblem of age than of mortality; and the interest with which we perambulate its +ruins is not the less pleasurable because we do not know much that is certain of its +antiquity, its founders, or its original use. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb362">[<a href="#pb362">362</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div id="appb" class="div1 appendix"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#xd30e329">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Appendix B.</h2> +<h2 class="main">The Mystic Sentence of Thibet.</h2> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<div lang="fr" class="div2 section"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">Explication et origine de la formule bouddhique:—“Om mani padmè hoûm” Par <span class="sc">M. Klaproth.</span> “Nouveau Journal Asiatique.”</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">Les Tubétains et les Mongols ont perpétuellement cette prière dans la bouche. Les +mots de cette inscription sont Sanscrits, et donnent un sens complet dans cette langue. +En voici la transcription en devanagri:— +</p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line"><span lang="sa" class="deva">ओं मणि पद्मे हुं</span></p> +</div> +<p class="first">“Om” est, chez les Hindous, le nom mystique de la divinité, par lequel toutes les +prières commencent. Cette particule mystique équivaut à l’interjection, <i>oh!</i> prononcée avec emphase et avec une entière conviction religieuse. Mani signifie <i>le joyau</i>; Padma <i>le lotus.</i> Enfin Hoûm est une particule qui équivaut à notre “<i>Amen.</i>” Le sens de la phrase est très clair; “Om mani padmè hoûm” signifie “<i>Oh! le joyau dans le lotus, Amen.</i>” Malgré ce sens indubitable, les Bouddhistes du Tubet se sont évertués à chercher +un sens mystique à chacune des six syllabes qui composent cette phrase. Ils ont rempli +des livres entiers de ces explications imaginaires. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb363">[<a href="#pb363">363</a>]</span></p> +<p>Cette formule est particulière aux Bouddhistes du Tubet. +</p> +<p>Selon l’histoire de ce pays la formule Om mani padmè hoûm, y a été apportée de l’Inde +vers la moitié du 7<sup>e</sup> siècle de notre ère. +</p> +<p>La legende suivante traduite du Mongol contient des détails sur la conversion du Tubet +par le dieu Padmá pani,<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e4520src" href="#xd30e4520">1</a> et sur l’origine des six syllabes sacrées, Om mani padmè hoûm. Ce dieu est appelé +en Sanscrit “Avalokites’ vara” ou “le maître qui contemple avec amour;” ce que les Tubétains ont rendu par “le tout-voyant +aux mille mains et aux mille yeux:” Les Chinois on traduit le nom par “celui qui contemple +les sous du inonde.” +</p> +<p>“Autrefois, quand le ‘<i>glorieux-accompli</i>’ (Sakya mouni ou Buddh) séjournait dans la forêt ‘d’Odma,’ il advint un jour, qu’étant +entouré de ses nombreux disciples un rayon de lumière de cinq couleurs sortit tout-à-coup +entre ses deux sourcils, forma un arc-en-ciel, et se dirigea du côté de l’Empire septentrional +de neige (Thibet). Les regards du Bouddha suivaient ce rayon, et sa figure montra +un sourire de joie inexprimable. Un de ses disciples lui demanda <span class="pageNum" id="pb364">[<a href="#pb364">364</a>]</span>de lui en expliquer la raison, et sur sa prière le glorieux-accompli lui dit: +</p> +<p>“ ‘Fils d’illustre origine! dans le pays qu’aucun Bouddha des trois âges n’a pu convertir, +et qui est rempli d’une foule d’êtres malfaisans, la loi se lèvera comme le soleil +et s’y répandra dans les temps futurs.<span id="xd30e4541"></span> +</p> +<p>“ ‘L’apôtre de cet Empire de neige âpre et sauvage, sera le Khoutoukhtou’ (Padmá páni). +</p> +<p>“Après que ‘Sakya mouni’ eut prononcé ces paroles, un rayon de lumière, éclatant comme +un lotus blanc, sortit de son coeur et illumina toutes les régions du monde et se +plongea dans le coeur du <i>Bouddha infiniment resplendissant.</i> Alors un autre éclat de lumière sortit du Bouddha resplendissant et se plongea dans +la mer des fleurs de <i>Padmá</i> (lotus), et y transmit cette pensée du Bouddha, qu’il s’en élèverait et qu’il en +naitrait un Khoubilkhan<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e4550src" href="#xd30e4550">2</a> divin, destiné à la conversion de l’Empire de neige.<span id="xd30e4553"></span> +</p> +<p>“Le Roi Dehdou qui était parvenu à participer à la béatitude de l’empire de Soukhawatee, +voulant un jour offrir au Bouddha un sacrifice des fleurs, dépêcha quelques-uns des +siens aux bords de la mer des <i>Padmá</i> (Lotus), pour y cueillir de ces fleurs. Ses envoyés aperçurent dans la mer une très +grande tige de Lotus au milieu de laquelle il y avait un bouton colossal entouré d’une +foule de grandes feuilles, et jetant des rayons de lumière de différentes couleurs. +Les envoyés en firent leur rapport au roi, qui, rempli d’étonnement, se rendit avec +sa cour sur un grand radeau à la place de la mer où se trouvait cette tige merveilleuse.<span id="xd30e4560"></span> +</p> +<p>“Y’étant arrivé, il présenta ses offrandes et prononça la bénédiction; le bouton s’ouvrit +alors des quatre cotés, et <span class="pageNum" id="pb365">[<a href="#pb365">365</a>]</span>au milieu apparut l’apôtre de l’empire de neige, né comme ‘Khoubilkhan.’ Il y était +assis, les jambes croisées, avait mi visage et quatre mains; les deux mains antérieures +étaient jointes devant le cœur, la troisième de droite tenait un rosaire de cristal, +et la quatrième à gauche une fleur de Lotus blanche, qui penchait vers l’oreille.<span id="xd30e4566"></span> +</p> +<p>“Sur sa figure, dont l’éclat se répandait vers les dix régions du monde, se montrait +un sourire qui pénétra dans tous les cœurs.<span id="xd30e4570"></span> +</p> +<p>“Le roi et sa suite portèrent le ‘Khoubilkhan’ au palais, en poussant des cris de +joie et entonnant des hymnes. Le roi se rendit devant le Bouddha éternel et lui demanda +la permission d’adopter pour fils, le ‘Khoubilkhan’ né dans la mer de lotus. Mais +sa demande ne fut pas agréé et il apprit, la véritable origine de ce ‘Khoubilkhan.’ +Le Bouddha infiniment resplendissant posa alors sa main sur la tête de celui-ci et +dit ‘Fils d’illustre origine! Les êtres qui habitent l’âpre empire de la neige, qu’aucun +Bouddha des temps passés n’a pu convertir, qu’aucun du temps futurs ne convertira, +et qu’aucun du temps présent n’a converti, le seront par la force et la bénédiction +de ton vœu. C’est excellant; c’est excellant! Khoutoukhtou!<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e4574src" href="#xd30e4574">3</a><span id="xd30e4578"></span> +</p> +<p>“ ‘Aussitôt que les habitans de l’âpre empire de neige te verront et qu’ils entendront +le son des six syllabes (Om mani padmè hoûm) ils seront délivrés des trois <span class="corr" id="xd30e4582" title="Source: naissance">naissances</span> de mauvaise nature, et trouveront la béatitude par la renaissance comme êtres d’une +nature supérieure. Les esprits malfaisans de l’âpre empire de neige, ainsi que tous +les êtres donnant des maladies ou la mort, aussitôt, Khoutoukhtou, qu’ils te verront +et qu’ils entendront le <span class="pageNum" id="pb366">[<a href="#pb366">366</a>]</span>son des six syllabes, ils quitteront la fureur et la méchanceté qui les anime, et +deviendront compatissans. +</p> +<p>“ ‘Les tigres, les panthères, les loups, les ours et autres animaux féroces, aussitôt, +O Khoutoukhtou! qu’ils te verront et entendront le son des six syllabes ils adouciront +leurs hurlemens, et leur fureur sanguinaire se changera en douceur bienveillante. +Khoutoukhtou! ta figure et le son des six syllabes rassaiseront les affamés et calmeront +la soif des altérés; il tombera comme une pluie d’eau bénite, et elle remplira tous +leurs desirs. Khoutoukhtou! tu es l’être gracieux destiné à annoncer la volonté du +Bouddha à cet empire de neige. +</p> +<p>“ ‘Selon ton example, un grand nombre de Bouddhas s’y montreront, dans <span class="corr" id="xd30e4590" title="Source: le">les</span> temps futurs, et y répandront la foi. +</p> +<p>“ ‘Les six syllabes sont le sommaire de toute doctrine et l’âpre empire de neige, +sera rempli de cette doctrine par la force de ces six syllabes— +</p> +<div class="lgouter"> +<p class="line">Om ma ni pad me houm.’</p> +</div> +<p class="first">“Après cette consécration, le Khoutoukhtou s’agenouilla devant le Bouddha, joignit +les mains et prononça le vœu suivant: ‘Puissé-je être en état de pouvoir faire parvenir +à la béatitude les six espèces d’êtres vivans dans les trois royaumes! Puissé-je, +avant tout, conduire sur le chemin du bonheur, les êtres vivans de l’empire de neige +(Thibet). +</p> +<p>“ ‘Loin de moi le désir de retourner dans mon Empire de joie, avant d’avoir achevé +l’œuvre si difficile de la conversion de ces êtres. Si une telle pensée, produite +par le dégoût et la <span class="corr" id="xd30e4599" title="Source: mauvaíse">mauvaise</span> humeur, s’empare de moi, que ma tête se fende en dix parties, et mon corps, comme +cette fleur de lotus, en mille.’ +</p> +<p>“Après ces mots, il se rendit dans le royaume de l’enfer, prononça les six syllabes +et détruisit les peines des enfers <span class="pageNum" id="pb367">[<a href="#pb367">367</a>]</span>frois et chauds. De là il s’éleva au royaume des animaux, prononça les six syllabes +et détruisit la peine que leur produit la chasse. Puis il se rendit dans l’empire +des hommes, prononça les six syllabes et détruisit la peine de la naissance, de l’âge, +des maladies et de la mort. Il s’éleva après à l’empire des génies du ciel, prononça +les six syllabes et détruisit l’envie qui les tourmente pour se disputer et se combattre. +Enfin, il aborda le grand Royaume de neige (le Tubet). +</p> +<p>“Ici, il aperçut la mer d’ ‘Otang’ comme un enfer terrible, et il vit que <span class="corr" id="xd30e4609" title="Source: dêrêchef">derechef</span>, plusieurs millions d’êtres y’étaient, bouillis, brûlés, et martyrisés. +</p> +<p>“Le Khoutouktou se rendit au bord de la mer et dit: ‘Oh! que tant de milliers d’êtres +qui se trouvent dans cette mer, où ils souffrent des tourmens <span class="corr" id="xd30e4614" title="Source: inexprimable">inexprimables</span> par la chaleur, le froid, la faim, et la soif, puissent rejeter loin d’eux leur enveloppe +funeste et renaître dans mon paradis commes êtres supérieures. <b>Om mani padme houm!</b>’ +</p> +<p>“A peine le ‘Khoutoukhtou’ avait-il prononcé ces mots que les tourmens des damnés +cessèrent; leur esprit fut tranquillisé, et ils se virent transportés sur le chemin +du Bouddha. Le Khoutoukhtou ayant ainsi rendu propres à la délivrance les six espèces +des êtres vivans dans les trois royaumes du monde, se trouva fatigué, se reposa et +tomba dans un état de contemplation intérieure!<span id="xd30e4622"></span> +</p> +<p>“<span class="corr" id="xd30e4626" title="Source: Apres">Après</span> quelques temps il vit qu’à peine la centième partie des habitans de l’empire de neige +avaient été conduits sur le chemin de la délivrance. Son âme en fut si douloureusement +affectée qu’il eut le désir de retourner dans son paradis. A peine l’avait-il conçu, +qu’ensuite de ce vœu, sa tête se fendit en dix et son corps en mille pièces. +</p> +<p>“Le Bouddha infiniment resplendissant lui apparût dans <span class="pageNum" id="pb368">[<a href="#pb368">368</a>]</span>le même moment, guérit la tête et le corps fendus du Khoutoukhtou, le prit par la +main et lui dit: “Fils d’illustre origine! Vois les suites inévitables de ton vœu; +mais <span class="corr" id="xd30e4633" title="Source: parceque">parce que</span> tu l’avais fait pour l’illustration de tous les Bouddhas, tu as été guéri sur-le-champ. +Ne sois donc plus triste, car quoique ta tête se soit fendue en dix pièces, chacune +aura, par ma bénédiction, une face particulière, et au-dessus d’elles sera placé mon +propre visage rayonnant. <span class="corr" id="xd30e4636" title="Source: Ce">Cet</span> onzième visage de <i>l’infiniment resplendissant,</i> placé au-dessus de tes dix autres, te rendra l’objet de l’adoration. +</p> +<p>“ ‘Quoique ton corps se soit fendu en mille morceaux, ils deviendront, par ma bénédiction, +mille mains qui représenteront les mille Bouddhas d’un âge complet du monde (en sanscrit +Kalpa),<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e4643src" href="#xd30e4643">4</a> et qui te rendront l’objet le plus digne d’adoration.’ ” +</p> +<p>Cette légende nous explique, <span class="corr" id="xd30e4648" title="Source: non-seulement">non seulement</span> l’extrême importance que les Bouddhistes du Tubet attachent à la formule “Om mani +padmè hoûm,” mais elle nous démontre aussi que son véritable sens est celui que j’ai +donné plus haut: Oh! le joyau dans le lotus; Amen! Il est évident qu’elle se rapporte +à “Avalokites’ vara” ou “Padma pani” lui-même, qui naquit dans une fleur de lotus.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e4653src" href="#xd30e4653">5</a> +<span class="pageNum" id="pb369">[<a href="#pb369">369</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="div2 section"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead"> +<h3 class="main">Ûm Mani Panee.</h3> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">As will be seen by the foregoing extract from M. Klaproth’s explanation, the mystic +sentence, instead of being as I have represented it, is in reality, “<b>Om mani padme houm,</b>” or, in a form of spelling more English, if not more intelligible, “Om muni pudmay +hoom,” and the meaning, supposing its derivation from the Sanscrit to be beyond doubt, +would, as therein translated, be, “Oh the jewel in the Lotus, Amen!” Almost every +traveller who has mentioned the inscription in question appears to have followed M. +Klaproth’s pronunciation as above; but this, although the one actually given by the +value of the Thibetian letters, is certainly not that in use by the people among whom +it is chiefly, if not alone, to be found. This I can vouch for, as the words were +so incessantly in the mouths of all to whom I applied for information, that I had +ample opportunity of hearing and remembering their sound; and having written them +on the spot in the Persian character, the pronunciation would not be open to the misapprehension +or uncertainty to which, after the sounds themselves had been forgotten, the English +form of spelling might have rendered them liable.<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e4664src" href="#xd30e4664">6</a> +</p> +<p>A form, however, different from both these, is given by one who, with the exception +perhaps of M. Hue, had better opportunities than most others for ascertaining the +meaning of the words and hearing their actual pronunciation: this was Captain Turner, +who was nominated by <span class="pageNum" id="pb370">[<a href="#pb370">370</a>]</span>Warren Hastings, in the year 1783, to undertake an embassy to the Court of Thibet, at Lassa. +</p> +<p>He, however, makes no mention of the Sanscrit translation above given, and confesses +his inability to obtain, even at the head-quarters of Thibetian Buddhism, a satisfactory +explanation of the origin or import of the sentence. The following account, taken +from Captain Turner’s Report on his Mission, may be of interest, as it explains the +circumstances under which an event so unusual as an embassy to the Court of Thibet +was agreed to by the Grand Lama. +</p> +<p>In 1772, a frontier warfare having broken out between the “Booteas,” dependants of Thibet, +and the English Government, in consequence of the aggression of the former, Teshoo +Lama, at the time regent of Thibet and guardian of the Delai Lama, his superior in +religious rank, united in his own person the political authority and the spiritual +hierarchy of the country, subservient only to the Emperor of China. The Lama, interested +for the safety of Bootan, sent a deputation to Calcutta, with a letter addressed to +the governor, of which the following is a translation:—“The affairs of this quarter +in every respect flourish. I am, night and day, employed in prayers for the increase +of your happiness and prosperity. Having been informed, by travellers from your country, +of your exalted fame and reputation, my heart, like the blossoms of spring, abounds +with satisfaction, gladness, and joy. +</p> +<p>“Praise be to God that the star of your fortune is in its ascension! Praise be to +Him that happiness and ease are the surrounding attendants of myself and family! Neither +to molest, nor persecute, is my aim. It is even the characteristic of our sect to +deprive ourselves of the <span class="pageNum" id="pb371">[<a href="#pb371">371</a>]</span>necessary refreshment of sleep, should an injury be done to a single individual; but +in justice and humanity, I am informed, you far surpass us. +</p> +<p>“May you ever adorn the seat of justice and power, that mankind may, in the shadow +of your bosom, enjoy the blessings of peace and affluence.” +</p> +<p>The Lama then enters into the subject of the disturbances between his dependants and +the British Government, and concludes:—“As to my part, I am but a Fakeer; and it is +the custom of my sect, with the rosary in our hands, to pray for the welfare of all +mankind, and especially for the peace and happiness of the inhabitants of this country; +and I do now, with my head uncovered, intreat that you will cease from all hostilities +in future. In this country the worship of the Almighty is the profession of all. We +poor creatures are in nothing equal to you. Having, however, a few things in hand, +I send them to you as tokens of remembrance, and hope for your acceptance of them.”<a class="noteRef" id="xd30e4686src" href="#xd30e4686">7</a> +</p> +<p>The Lama being in this unusually agreeable frame of mind, the British Government yielded +without hesitation to his intercession. +</p> +<p>The governor himself readily embraced the opportunity, which he thought the occurrence +afforded, of extending the British influence to a quarter of the world but little +known, and with which we possessed hardly any commercial connexion. +</p> +<p>In 1774 a deputation was sent to carry back an answer to the Lama, and to offer him suitable +presents. It was <span class="pageNum" id="pb372">[<a href="#pb372">372</a>]</span>furnished also with a variety of articles of English manufacture, to be produced as +specimens of the trade in which the subjects of the Lama might be invited to participate. +The result was, that in 1779, when the Lama visited the Emperor of China at Pekin, desirous of improving his connexion +with the Government of Bengal, he desired the British envoy to go round by sea to +Canton, promising to join him at the capital. The Emperor’s promise was at the same +time obtained to permit the first openings of an intercourse between that country +and Bengal, through the intermediate channel furnished by the Lama. +</p> +<p>The death of both the Lama and the envoy, however, which happened nearly at the same +time, destroyed the plans thus formed. +</p> +<p>Soon after the receipt of the letters announcing the Lama’s death, intelligence arrived +of his reappearance in Thibet! His soul, according to the doctrines of their faith, +had passed into and animated the body of an infant, who, on the discovery of his identity +by such testimony as their religion prescribes, was proclaimed by the same title as +his predecessor. +</p> +<p>Warren Hastings then proposed a second deputation to Thibet, and Captain Turner was +accordingly nominated on the 9th January, 1783. +</p> +<p>His mention of the sculptured stones and inscription is as follows:— +</p> +<p>“Another sort of monument is a long wall, on both faces of which near the top are +inserted large tablets with the words ‘Oom maunee paimee oom’ carved in relief. This +is the sacred sentence repeated upon the rosaries of the Lamas, and in general use +in Tibet. Of the form of words to which ideas of peculiar sanctity are annexed by +<span class="pageNum" id="pb373">[<a href="#pb373">373</a>]</span>the inhabitants, I could never obtain a satisfactory explanation. It is frequently +engraven on the rocks in large and deep characters, and sometimes I have seen it on +the sides of hills; the letters, which are formed by means of stones fixed in the +earth, are of so vast a magnitude as to be visible at a very considerable distance.” +</p> +<p>M. Hue’s account of an explanation of the formula, which he received from the highest +authority at Lassa, is as follows:—“Living beings are divided into six classes—angels, +demons, men, quadrupeds, birds, and reptiles. These six classes of beings correspond +to the syllables of the formula, ‘Om mani padmè houm.’ Living beings by continual +transformations, and according to their merit or demerit, pass about in these six +classes until they have attained the apex of perfection, when they are absorbed and +lost in the grand essence of Buddha. Living beings have, according to the class to +which they belong, particular means of sanctifying themselves, of rising to a superior +class, of obtaining perfection, and of arriving in process of time at the period of +their absorption. Men who repeat very frequently and devotedly ‘Om mani padmè houm,’ +escape falling after death into the six classes of animate creatures, corresponding +to the six syllables of the formula, and obtain the plenitude of being, by their absorption +into the eternal and universal soul of Buddha.” +</p> +<p>One traveller only I have been able to find who mentions the sentence as I have done. +M. Jacquemont writes, in his “Letters from Cashmere and Thibet,” in 1830:—“I am returned from afar; I have often been very cold; I have had a hundred and +eighteen very bad dinners: but I think myself amply recompensed for these trans-Himalayan +miseries by the interesting observations and vast collections <span class="pageNum" id="pb374">[<a href="#pb374">374</a>]</span>which I have been able to make in a country perfectly new. The Tartars are a very +good sort of people. It is true that to please them I made myself a little heathen +after their fashion, and joined without scruple in the national chorus, ‘<b>Houm mâni pani houm.</b>’ ” +</p> +<p>Judging by the system of spelling he has adopted in other instances in his letters, +this would be nearly—as regards the two main words—the same pronunciation as I have +given. He however, in another part, follows it still more closely, and at the same +time shows that he is aware of a translation which, although probably the true one, +has no connexion whatever with the words as he himself actually represents them. +</p> +<p>He says—“In Thibet they sing a good deal also—that is, one or two inhabitants per +square league—but only a single song of three words—<b>‘Oum mani pani;’</b> which means, in the learned language, ‘Oh, diamond water-lily!’ and leads the singers +direct into Buddha’s paradise. +</p> +<p>“But, though composed of three Thibetian words, it is evidently of Indian origin, +and I have proved it <i>botanically.</i> The lotus is a plant peculiar to the lukewarm and temperate waters of India and Egypt. +There is not one of its genus, or even of its family, in Thibet.” +</p> +<p>The words, however, are not, as M. Jacquemont says, Thibetian, but Sanscrit; and, +although one of the characters in which they are clothed is the current Thibetian, +it would appear that neither their true pronunciation nor actual meaning is known +to the people who thus make such frequent use of them. +</p> +<p>The sentence itself is in the mouths of all. In the monastery of Hemis alone, probably +as many as a hundred wheels are in continual motion, bearing it within their folds +not less than 1,700,000 times. The <span class="pageNum" id="pb375">[<a href="#pb375">375</a>]</span>very stones by the wayside present its well-known characters in countless numbers, +and the hills repeat it, and yet to those into whose daily religious observances it +thus so largely enters, it comes but as a vain and empty sound, without either sense +or signification. The Lamas themselves, no doubt, believe that the doctrine contained +in these marvellous words is immense, and the higher dignitaries of the Church may +know their derivation; but, to the great majority, even the mystic meaning and dim +legendary history which the true pronunciation and rightful origin of the words would +bring to their minds, are unknown, and they are thus deprived of that large amount +of comfort and consolation which they would otherwise derive from the glowing and +all-powerful sentence— +</p> +<p>“Oh, the jewel in the lotus, Amen!” +<span class="pageNum" id="pb376">[<a href="#pb376">376</a>]</span></p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div class="footnotes"> +<hr class="fnsep" /> +<div class="footnote-body"> +<div id="xd30e4520"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e4520src">1</a></span> Padmà pâni, fils céleste du Bouddha divin du monde actuel, est, dans cette qualité, +entré en fonction depuis la mort du Bouddha terrestre Sakya mouni, comme son remplaçant, +chargé d’être après lui le protecteur constant, le gardien et le propagateur de la +foi bouddhique renouvelée par Sakya. C’est pour cette raison qu’il ne se borne pas +à une apparition unique comme les Bouddhas, mais qu’il se soumet presque sans interruption +à une série de naissances qui dureront jusqu’à l’avénement de Maitreya, le futur Bouddha. +</p> +<p class="footnote cont">On croit aussi qu’il est incarné dans la personne du “Dalai Lama,” et qu’il paraîtra +en qualité de Bouddha, le millième de la période actuelle du monde. +</p> +<p class="footnote cont">Le Tibet est sa terra de prédilection; il est le père de ses habitants, et la formule +célèbre<span class="corr" id="xd30e4525" title="Source: .">:</span> Om mani padmè hom, est un de ses bienfaits.<i>—Rélation des Royaumes Bouddhiques,</i> par Chy Fa Hian, traduit par M. Remusat. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e4520src" title="Return to note 1 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e4550"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e4550src">2</a></span> Le mot Khoubilkhan, en Mongol, désigne l’incarnation d’une âme supérieure. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e4550src" title="Return to note 2 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e4574"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e4574src">3</a></span> Khoutoukhtou, en Mongol, signifie “<i>Un Saint Maître.</i>” <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e4574src" title="Return to note 3 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e4643"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e4643src">4</a></span> Le plus petit “Kalpa” est de seize millions huit cent mille ans, et le grand “Kalpa” +est d’un milliard trois cents quarante-quatre millions d’années. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e4643src" title="Return to note 4 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e4653"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e4653src">5</a></span> Je ne l’ai encore trouvée cette phrase dans aucun ouvrage chinois ou japonais, et +notre savant collègue M. Bournouf, m’a dit aussi qu’il ne l’a jamais rencontrée dans +les livres palis, birmans et siamois. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e4653src" title="Return to note 5 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e4664"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e4664src">6</a></span> <span lang="ur" class="aran">اُم مانِپانِي</span> <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e4664src" title="Return to note 6 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +<div id="xd30e4686"> +<p class="footnote"><span class="fnlabel"><a class="noteRef" href="#xd30e4686src">7</a></span> Amongst these were sheets of gilt leather, stamped with the black eagle of the Russian +armorial; talents of gold and silver, bags of genuine musk, narrow cloths of woollen +the manufacture of Thibet, and silks of China. <a class="fnarrow" href="#xd30e4686src" title="Return to note 7 in text.">↑</a></p> +</div> +</div> +</div> +</div> +<div id="appc" class="div1 appendix"><span class="pageNum">[<a href="#xd30e339">Contents</a>]</span><div class="divHead"> +<h2 class="label">Appendix C.</h2> +<h2 class="main">A Sketch of the History of Cashmere.</h2> +</div> +<div class="divBody"> +<p class="first">A Mahomedan Writer, “Noor ul deen,” who begins the history of Cashmere with the Creation, +affirms that the valley was visited by Adam after the Fall; that the descendants of +Seth reigned over the country for 1,110 years; and that, after the deluge, it became +peopled by a tribe from Turkistan. +</p> +<p>The Hindoo historians add, that, after the line of Seth became extinct, the Hindoos +conquered the country, and ruled it until the period of the deluge; and that the Cashmerians +were afterwards taught the worship of one God by “Moses;” but, relapsing into Hindoo +idolatry, were punished by the local inundation of the province, and the conversion +of the valley into a vast lake. +</p> +<p>It would appear, from chronicles actually existing, that Cashmere has been a regular +kingdom for a period far beyond the limits of history in general. From the year B.C. 2666 to <span class="asc">A.D.</span> 1024 it seems to have been governed (according to these authorities) by Princes of Hindoo +and Tartar dynasties, and their names, to the number of about a hundred, have been +duly handed down to posterity. <span class="pageNum" id="pb377">[<a href="#pb377">377</a>]</span>Of the titles of these worthies, “Durlabhaverddhana” and “Bikrumajeet” will perhaps +be sufficient as specimens. During these years, the religion seems at first to have +been the worship of snakes, and afterwards Hindooism. +</p> +<p>In the reign of Asoca, about the 4th century before Christ, Buddhism was introduced, +and after remaining for some time, under Tartar princes, the religion of the country, +was again succeeded by Hindooism. +</p> +<p>The first Mahomedan king of Cashmere is believed to be “Shahmar,” who came to the +throne in <span class="asc">A.D.</span> 1341, and during the succeeding reigns Thibet appears to have been first subdued, and +was annexed for a time to the kingdom. +</p> +<p>The next monarch, who appears notably on the stage, was “Sikunder,” who, influenced +by a certain Syud Alee Humudanee and other religious fanatics recently arrived in +the country, began to destroy the Hindoo temples and images by fire, and to force +the people to abjure idolatry. Previous to this influx of zealots, the country was +in a transition state as regards religion and Mahomedanism then began to make some +head in the valley. +</p> +<p>After this period nothing of very great importance occurred in the kingdom of Cashmere +until the year 1584, when the great Akbar summoned the then king “Yûsûf Shah” to present himself in person +at the court of Lahore. Finding his orders not complied with, he despatched an army +of 50,000 men to enforce obedience, and Yûsûf Shah, preferring apparently to die than +fight, delivered himself up, and was sent to Lahore. +</p> +<p>The imperial army was afterwards, however, repulsed in attempting to subdue the country, +and it was not finally conquered for two years, when Akbar, overcoming all resistance, +took possession of the province. +<span class="pageNum" id="pb378">[<a href="#pb378">378</a>]</span></p> +<p>The purity of the emperor’s motives in annexing the territory, and his opinion of +his conquest, are amusingly shown in the following letter to his minister Abdûllah +Khan:— +</p> +<p>“On the mirror of your mind, which bears the stamp of Divine illumination, be it manifest +and evident, that at the time when my imperial army happened to be in the territories +of the Punjab, although I at first had no other views than to amuse myself with sports +and hunting in this country, yet the conquest of the enchanting kingdom of Cashmere, +which has never yet been subdued by monarchs of the age, which for natural strength +and inaccessibility is unrivalled, and which, for beauty and pleasantness, is a proverb +among the most sagacious beholders, became secretly an object of my wishes, <i>because</i> I received constantly accounts of the tyranny of the rulers of that region. Accordingly, +in a very short time, my brave warriors annexed that kingdom to my dominions. Though +the princes of that country were not remiss in their exertions, yet, as my intentions +were established on the basis of equity, it was completely conquered. +</p> +<p>“I myself also visited that happy spot, the possession of which is a fresh instance +of the Divine favour, and offered up my praise and thanksgiving to the supreme Lord +of all things. As I found myself delighted with the romantic bowers of Cashmere, the +residence of pleasure, I made an excursion to the mountains of that country and Thibet, +and beheld, with the eyes of astonishment, the wonders of the picture of Nature.” +</p> +<p>This visit was in <span class="asc">A.D.</span> 1588. +</p> +<p>The emperor then appears to have entered the valley by the Peer Punjal Pass, and to +have been received with every demonstration of joy by the people in whom he took <span class="pageNum" id="pb379">[<a href="#pb379">379</a>]</span>such a fatherly interest. The loyalty of his children, however, was but short-lived, +for about the year 1591 he again writes to Abdûllah:— +</p> +<p>“I must acquaint your Highness, that just at this time certain persons, under the +predominance of an unlucky destiny, raised an insurrection in Cashmere and breathed +the air of rebellion and dissatisfaction at the bounty of Providence. +</p> +<p>“As soon as the intelligence of this tumult arrived, regardless of deluges of rain, +I hastened away by forced marches, but before the troops could get through the passes +and enter into that kingdom, certain Omrahs, attached to my interests, who had been +obliged by compulsion to join in that rash enterprise, availing themselves of an opportunity, +brought me the head of the rebel commander. +</p> +<p>“As my forces were near, I visited a second time that ever-verdant garden, and gratified +my mind and senses with the beauties of that luxuriant spot.” +</p> +<p>With a view to keeping the capital in order, the Fort of Huree Purbut was built, about +<span class="asc">A.D.</span> 1597, at a cost of over 1,000,000<i>l.</i> +</p> +<p>Means were at the same time adopted of rendering the Cashmerians less warlike, and +of breaking their independent spirit. To effect this, it is generally believed in +Cashmere that the Emperor Akbar caused a change to be made in the dress of the people. +Instead of the ancient, well-girdled tunic, adapted to activity and exercise, he introduced +the effeminate long gown of the present day, a change which may have led to the introduction +of the kangree, or pot of charcoal, now used in the valley. +</p> +<p>During Akbar’s reign much was done towards the <span class="pageNum" id="pb380">[<a href="#pb380">380</a>]</span>improvement of the province. The country was adorned with palaces and gardens, and +various trees and shrubs were introduced and cultivated. +</p> +<p>About the beginning of the seventeenth century, Akbar visited Cashmere for the third +and last time, being succeeded, after a reign of fifty-two years, by his son Selim, +or Jehangeer, <span class="asc">A.D.</span> 1605. +</p> +<p>Jehangeer, during the early part of his reign, visited Cashmere many times, and the +valley having been surveyed and brought to order by Akbar, nothing remained for his +successor but to enjoy the delights of the country in company with his empress, the +famous Noor Jehan. In 1621, and in 1624, he repeated his visit, when he built many summer-houses and palaces at Atchabull, +Shalimar, &c., and in <span class="asc">A.D.</span> 1627 he visited the valley for the last time. He was succeeded in that year by Shah Jehan, +who, in 1634, also visited his territories; and, besides improving the country by the introduction +of fruit-trees, flowers, &c. from Cabul, he invaded Thibet, and taking the Fort of +Ladak, annexed the country to Cashmere. +</p> +<p>In 1645 he again visited the valley, and also in the following years, being accompanied by +many poets and savants; among the former was a certain Hajee Mahomet Jan, a Persian, +who composed a poem on the country; but the difficulties of the road appear to have +impressed his mind rather more than the beauties of the scenery. He compares the sharpness +of the passes to “the swords of the Feringees,<span class="corr" id="xd30e4835" title="Not in source">”</span> and their tortuous ascents to “the curls of a blackamoor’s hair!” +</p> +<p>In 1657, Shah Jehan, being deposed by his son Aurungzib, was confined in the Fort of Agra +for life; and in the year 1664 the new emperor also paid a visit to his Cashmerian dominions. Of this magnificent +expedition, <span class="pageNum" id="pb381">[<a href="#pb381">381</a>]</span>M. Bernier, the monarch’s state physician, gives an amusing and detailed description, +purporting to be +</p> +<p>“A relation of a voyage made in the year 1664, when the Great Mogul, Aureng-Zebe, went with his army from, Dehly to Lahor, from +Lahor to Bember, and from thence to that small kingdom of Kachemere, or Cassimere, +called by the Mogols the Paradise of the Indies, concerning which the author affirms +that he hath a particular history of it, in the Persian tongue.” +</p> +<p>“The weighty occasion and cause of this voyage of the Emperor’s, together with an +account of the state and posture of his army, and some curious particulars observable +in voyages of the Indies,” are thus given by M. Bernier:—“Since that Aureng-Zebe began +to find himself in better health, it hath been constantly reported that he would make +a voyage to Kachemere, to be out of the way of the approaching summer heats, though +the more intelligent sort of men would hardly be persuaded, that as long as he kept +his father, Chah-Jean (Shah Jehan), prisoner in the Fort of Agra, he would think it +safe to be at such a distance. Yet, notwithstanding, we have found that reason of +State hath given place to that of health, or rather, to the intrigues of Rauchenara +Begum, who was wild to breathe a more free air than that of the Seraglio, and to have +her turn in showing herself to a gallant and magnificent army, as her sister had formerly +done during the reign of Chah-Jean.” +</p> +<p>The Emperor appears to have made preparations on this occasion for a voyage of a year +and a half. +</p> +<p>He had with him, not only thirty-five thousand horse, or thereabouts, and ten thousand +foot, but also “both his artilleries, the great or heavy, and the small or lighter. +</p> +<p>For the carriage of the Emperor’s baggage and stores, <span class="pageNum" id="pb382">[<a href="#pb382">382</a>]</span>no less than 30,000 coolies were required, although, for fear of starving that little +kingdom of Kachemere,” he only carried with him the least number of ladies and cavaliers +he could manage, and as few elephants and mules as would suffice for the convenience +of the former. +</p> +<p>Crossing the Peer Punjal, some of the ladies of the Seraglio unfortunately paid the +penalty of their too ardent desires to show themselves off to “a gallant and magnificent +army,” for “one of the elephants fell back upon him that was next, and he upon the +next, and so on to the fifteenth, so that they did all tumble to the bottom of the +precipice. It was the good fortune of those poor women, however, that there were but +three or four of them killed; but the fifteen elephants remained upon the place.” +The historian rather ungallantly adds, “When these bulky masses do once fall under +<i>those vast burdens</i> they never rise again, though the way be ever so fair.” +</p> +<p>On reaching the summit of the pass after this accident, the expedition appears to +have encountered more misfortunes, for “there blew a wind so cold that all people +shook and ran away, especially the silly Indians, who never had seen ice or snow, +or felt such cold.” +</p> +<p>Aurungzib appears to have remained three months in the valley on this occasion. +</p> +<p>After his death there is no mention of his successors having visited Cashmere, and +the local governors became in consequence, in common with those of other provinces +of the tottering Mogul throne, little short of independent rulers. Under the tender +mercies of most of these, the unfortunate Cashmeeries appear to have fared but badly. +</p> +<p>In 1745, however, a series of misfortunes from another source burst forth upon the inhabitants +of the happy valley. A dreadful famine first broke out, during which it is said <span class="pageNum" id="pb383">[<a href="#pb383">383</a>]</span>that slaves sold for four pice (three half-pence) each. The famine produced its natural +result, a pestilence, which swept away many thousands of the people; an eclipse also +added to their terror, and storms of rain followed by floods carried away all the +bridges. +</p> +<p>In the year 1752, the country passed from the possession of the Mogul throne, and fell under the rule +of the Dûranees, and during many years was convulsed by a series of wars and rebellions, +and subject to numerous different governors. In <span class="asc">A.D.</span> 1801, Runjeet Singh began to come into notice, and, having consolidated the nation of +the Sikhs, had, in the year 1813 become one of the recognised princes of India. In that year Futteh Shah entered into +a treaty with him for a subsidiary force for the invasion of Cashmere. The price of +this accommodation was fixed at 80,000<i>l.</i> yearly; but, before the expiration of the second year, the Lion of the Punjab, on +pretence of the non-fulfilment of the treaty, invaded the valley on his own account +at the head of a considerable army. He was repulsed, however, and forced to retreat +to Lahore with the loss of his entire baggage. In <span class="asc">A.D.</span> 1819, encouraged by recent successes against Moultan, Runjeet Singh collected an army +“as numerous as ants and locusts,” and invaded the valley a second time, and being +successful, the country again fell under the sway of a Hindoo Sovereign. +</p> +<p>It, however, remained for some time afterwards in a disturbed state; and for signal +services against the rebellious frontier chiefs, who were averse to Runjeet Singh’s +rule, Gûlab Singh (the late Maharajah) obtained possession of the territory of Jumoo, +now included in the kingdom of Cashmere. +</p> +<p>Runjeet Singh, dying in 1839, was succeeded by his son and grandson, successively, both of whom died shortly <span class="pageNum" id="pb384">[<a href="#pb384">384</a>]</span>after their accession; and the state of anarchy and confusion which ensued among the +Sikh Sirdars was terminated by Shere Singh being installed as Maharajah of Lahore. +</p> +<p>Under his rule, in 1842, Gûlab Singh further brought himself into notice by reducing the kingdom of little +Thibet with the army under Zorawur Singh, and on the termination of the Sikh Campaign +of the Sutlej—Duleep Singh being established on the throne of Lahore—he was admitted, +“in consideration of his good conduct,” to the privileges of a separate treaty with +the British Government. +</p> +<p>The result of these privileges was, that he was shortly afterwards put in possession, +for “a consideration,” of the entire kingdom of Cashmere. +</p> +<p>As indemnification for the expenses of the Sikh Campaign, the British Government had +demanded from the Lahore State the sum of a crore and a half of rupees, or 1,500,000<i>l.</i> The whole of this amount, however, was not forthcoming, and it was agreed by Article +4 of the treaty of 9th March, 1846, with the Maharajah Duleep Singh, that all the hill-country between the rivers Indus +and Beas, including the province of Cashmere, should be ceded to the Honourable East +India Company, in perpetual sovereignty, as an equivalent for one million sterling. +</p> +<p>Article 12 of the same treaty guaranteed to Gûlab Singh, in consequence of his services +to the Lahore State, its recognition of his independence in such territories as might +afterwards be agreed upon; and on the 16th March, 1846, the British Government, by +special treaty, made over for ever, in independent possession to Maharajah Gûlab Singh +and the heirs male of his body, the greater part of the territories previously mentioned +in Article 4. In consideration of this transfer, the Maharajah was to pay to the British +Government, within the year, the sum of seventy-five <span class="pageNum" id="pb385">[<a href="#pb385">385</a>]</span>lakhs of rupees (750,000<i>l.</i>). To acknowledge the supremacy of that Government, and, in token of such supremacy, +to present it annually the following tribute, viz.:—One horse, twelve perfect shawl +goats of approved breed (six male and six female), and three pairs of Cashmere shawls. +</p> +<p>Thus, “on the 16th day of March, in the year of our Lord 1846, corresponding with the 17th day +of Rubbeeoolawul, 1262, Hijree, was <i>done</i> at Umritsur,” the treaty of ten articles, by which Gûlab Singh was raised to the +rank and dignity of an independent ruler. +</p> +<p>For seventy-five lakhs of rupees the unfortunate Cashmeeries were handed over to the +tender mercies of “the most thorough ruffian that ever was created—a villain from +a kingdom down to a half-penny,” and the “Paradise of the Indies,” after remaining +rather less than a week a British possession, was relinquished by England for ever. +</p> +<p class="trailer xd30e4920"><span class="sc">The End.</span></p> +</div> +</div> +<div class="transcriberNote"> +<h2 class="main">Colophon</h2> + +<h3 class="main">Metadata</h3> + +<table class="colophonMetadata" summary="Metadata"> +<tr> +<td><b>Title:</b></td> +<td>Diary of a pedestrian in Cashmere and Thibet</td> +<td></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><b>Author:</b></td> +<td>William Henry Knight</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><b>Contributor:</b></td> +<td>Alexander Cunningham (1814–1893)</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><b>Contributor:</b></td> +<td>Heinrich Julius Klaproth (1783–1835)</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><b>Contributor:</b></td> +<td>Godfrey Thomas Vigne (1801–1863)</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><b>Publication date:</b></td> +<td>2003-01-01</td> +<td></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><b>Language:</b></td> +<td>English (U.K.)</td> +<td></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><b>Original publisher:</b></td> +<td>R. Bentley</td> +<td></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><b>Original publication place:</b></td> +<td>London</td> +<td></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><b>Original publication date:</b></td> +<td>1863</td> +<td></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><b>QR-code:</b></td> +<td colspan="2"><img src="images/qr3639.png" alt="QR-code of Project Gutenberg URL" width="148" height="148" /></td> +</tr> +</table> +<h3 class="main">Encoding</h3> +<p class="first">This book contains small fragments in Devanagari (Sanskrit) and Arabic script (Hindostani +or Urdu). These parts are marked as below. +</p> +<ul> +<li><span lang="sa" class="deva">देवनगारी</span> +</li> +<li><span lang="ur" class="aran">ٱردُو</span> +</li> +</ul><p> +</p> +<p>Known Problems: +</p> +<p>The spelling of names is inconsistent, especially between the main text and the appendix. +No changes are made to this. +</p> +<p>Redundant start-of-line quotation-marks have been removed. (Occurs in the appendix, +especially in the French text). +</p> +<p>Where the text has been corrected, this is tagged with the corr tag, giving the source +in the sic attribute. Some troublesome spots have been marked with the sic tag.</p> +<h3 class="main">Revision History</h3> +<ul> +<li class="numberedItem"><span class="itemNumber">1.1</span> 2021-07-06 Added illustrations from scans available in The Internet Archive; made +several minor corrections. +</li> +<li class="numberedItem"><span class="itemNumber">1.0</span> 2008-01-07 Moved to 1.0 status. +</li> +<li class="numberedItem"><span class="itemNumber">0.9</span> 1999-08-16 finished proofing corrections by Francis Miles. (JH) +</li> +<li class="numberedItem"><span class="itemNumber">0.0</span> 1998-12-20 OCR scanned entire book (in about 8 hours, 2 hours rec.).</li> +</ul> +<h3 class="main">External References</h3> +<p>This Project Gutenberg eBook contains external references. These links may not work +for you.</p> +<h3 class="main">Corrections</h3> +<p>The following corrections have been applied to the text:</p> +<table class="correctionTable" summary="Overview of corrections applied to the text."> +<tr> +<th>Page</th> +<th>Source</th> +<th>Correction</th> +<th>Edit distance</th> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e721">xvi</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Stones</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Stone</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e861">7</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">civilisation</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">civilization</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e964">18</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">dolies</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">doolies</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e1108">33</a>, <a class="pageref" href="#xd30e2375">184</a>, <a class="pageref" href="#xd30e2970">265</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Sing</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Singh</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e1279">51</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">seem</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">seems</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e1373">67</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom"> +[<i>Not in source</i>] +</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">,</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e1478">82</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">champaigne</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">champagne</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e1554">90</a>, <a class="pageref" href="#xd30e2186">161</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom"> +[<i>Not in source</i>] +</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">.</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e1586">94</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">t’was</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">’twas</td> +<td class="bottom">2</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e1799">116</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">1612</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">1619</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e1982">136</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">inaccesible</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">inaccessible</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e2227">168</a>, <a class="pageref" href="#xd30e4122">331</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Koros</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Kőrös</td> +<td class="bottom">2 / 0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e2335">178</a>, <a class="pageref" href="#xd30e2715">229</a>, <a class="pageref" href="#xd30e3962">311</a>, <a class="pageref" href="#xd30e3986">313</a>, <a class="pageref" href="#xd30e4292">346</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">,</td> +<td class="width40 bottom"> +[<i>Deleted</i>] +</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e2369">182</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom"> +[<i>Not in source</i>] +</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">and</td> +<td class="bottom">3</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e2758">234</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">procedings</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">proceedings</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e3081">275</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">who</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">whom</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e3132">282</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">motly</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">motley</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e3166">285</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">piu</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">più</td> +<td class="bottom">1 / 0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e3172">285</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">woke</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">woken</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e4346">352</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">villanous</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">villainous</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e4525">363</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">.</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">:</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e4541">364</a>, <a class="pageref" href="#xd30e4578">365</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">’ ”</td> +<td class="width40 bottom"> +[<i>Deleted</i>] +</td> +<td class="bottom">3</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e4553">364</a>, <a class="pageref" href="#xd30e4560">364</a>, <a class="pageref" href="#xd30e4566">365</a>, <a class="pageref" href="#xd30e4570">365</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">”</td> +<td class="width40 bottom"> +[<i>Deleted</i>] +</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e4582">365</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">naissance</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">naissances</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e4590">366</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">le</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">les</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e4599">366</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">mauvaíse</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">mauvaise</td> +<td class="bottom">1 / 0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e4609">367</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">dêrêchef</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">derechef</td> +<td class="bottom">2 / 0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e4614">367</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">inexprimable</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">inexprimables</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e4622">367</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">’</td> +<td class="width40 bottom"> +[<i>Deleted</i>] +</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e4626">367</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Apres</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Après</td> +<td class="bottom">1 / 0</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e4633">368</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">parceque</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">parce que</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e4636">368</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Ce</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">Cet</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e4648">368</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom">non-seulement</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">non seulement</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="width20"><a class="pageref" href="#xd30e4835">380</a></td> +<td class="width40 bottom"> +[<i>Not in source</i>] +</td> +<td class="width40 bottom">”</td> +<td class="bottom">1</td> +</tr> +</table> +<h3 class="main">Abbreviations</h3> +<p>Overview of abbreviations used.</p> +<table class="abbreviationtable" summary="Overview of abbreviations used."> +<tr> +<th>Abbreviation</th> +<th>Expansion</th> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="bottom">Capt.</td> +<td class="bottom">Captain</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="bottom">Delt.</td> +<td class="bottom">Delineavit</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="bottom">I.H.S.</td> +<td class="bottom"> +[<i>Expansion not available</i>] +</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="bottom">Lith.</td> +<td class="bottom">Lithography</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td class="bottom">Q.M.G.</td> +<td class="bottom">Quartermaster General</td> +</tr> +</table> +</div> +</div> +<div style='display:block; margin-top:4em'>*** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK DIARY OF A PEDESTRIAN IN CASHMERE AND THIBET ***</div> +<div style='text-align:left'> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will +be renamed. +</div> + +<div style='display:block; margin:1em 0'> +Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright +law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, +so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United +States without permission and without paying copyright +royalties. 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