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diff --git a/36387.txt b/36387.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..52cb0bb --- /dev/null +++ b/36387.txt @@ -0,0 +1,6454 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Colonial Expeditions to the Interior of +California Central Valley, 1800-1820, by Sherburne Friend Cook + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Colonial Expeditions to the Interior of California Central Valley, 1800-1820 + Anthropological Records 16(6):239-292, 1958 + + +Author: Sherburne Friend Cook + + + +Release Date: June 12, 2011 [eBook #36387] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COLONIAL EXPEDITIONS TO THE +INTERIOR OF CALIFORNIA CENTRAL VALLEY, 1800-1820*** + + +E-text prepared by Colin Bell, René Anderson Benitz, Joseph Cooper, and +the Online Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) + + + +COLONIAL EXPEDITIONS TO THE INTERIOR OF CALIFORNIA +CENTRAL VALLEY, 1800-1820 + +by + +S. F. COOK + + + + + + + +Anthropological Records +Vol. 16, No. 6 + +University Of California Publications +Anthropological Records +Editors (Berkeley): J. H. Rowe, R. F. Heizer, R. F. Murphy, E. Norbeck +Volume 16, No. 6, pp. 239-292 +Submitted by editors June 18, 1958 +Issued May 27, 1960 +Price, $1.50 + +University of California Press +Berkeley and Los Angeles +California + +Cambridge University Press +London, England + +Manufactured in the United States of America + + + + +CONTENTS + + + Page + Introduction 239 + + I. Early expeditions, 1776-1803 241 + Excerpts from official correspondence 241 + Hermenegildo Sal's expedition, 1796 241 + + II. Expeditions, 1804-1805 243 + Father Martin's visit to Cholam, 1804 243 + Father Martin's visit to Bubal, 1805 243 + Expedition of Second Lieutenant Luis Arguello, 1805 244 + + III. Expeditions by Zalvidea and Moraga, 1806-1807 245 + Father Zalvidea's expedition, 1806 245 + Lieutenant Gabriel Moraga's expedition, 1806 247 + Reminiscences of Mexican pioneers 254 + + IV. Jose Palomares' expedition to the Tulares, 1808 256 + + V. Exploration of the Sacramento-San Joaquin delta, 1810-1813 258 + Father Viader's first trip 258 + Father Viader's second trip 259 + Father Ramon Abella's expedition, 1811 260 + Jose Arguello's attack on an Indian village, 1813 265 + + VI. Expeditions, 1815-1820 267 + Ortega's expedition to Kings River and Tulare Lake, 1815 267 + Father Martinez' expedition 271 + Minor sorties 273 + Expedition to the delta, 1817 273 + + VII. Minor raids and forays, 1810-1820 280 + + Notes 282 + + Bibliography 291 + + + + +COLONIAL EXPEDITIONS TO THE INTERIOR OF CALIFORNIA +CENTRAL VALLEY, 1800-1820 + +BY S. F. COOK + + +INTRODUCTION + +The general anthropology and history of the California natives has been +exhaustively studied, in particular their archaeology and ethnography. +Much is also known concerning the vicissitudes of their existence since +the coming of the white man. The mission experience has been thoroughly +explored and is admirably documented. The period of the Mexican War and +the gold rush has been the subject of hundreds of books and articles. + +Students interested in problems of human biology, ecology, and sociology +centering on the indigenous population of California have readily +available certain important sources of information. First, there is a +wealth of archaeological data--materials deposited in museums, many +archaeological sites which are in their original position, reports, and +monographs. Second should be mentioned the long series of ethnographic +investigations carried on by various agencies over half a century and +based primarily upon the word of living informants. Third are the +general historical and mission records, which display the relation +between the Spanish-Mexican civilization and the native. These merge +into the fourth source of knowledge, the official documents, letters, +memoirs, diaries, and contemporary newspaper accounts which give us +an exceedingly detailed picture of the Indian during the period of +first exploitation by the Americans. The fifth category includes the +documentary records since approximately 1855: the reports of the Indian +Service and of Army Officers, correspondence of all sorts among Federal +and State functionaries, and investigations by Congressional or +Legislative Committees. These documents, most of which are to be +found in libraries and public archives, bring the student down to +the present time. + +In spite of this wide spectrum of source material there is one area +which has been as yet relatively little explored but which merits +attention on the part of those concerned with the human development of +California. I refer to the contact between the Spanish-Mexican settlers +and the aboriginal population, not through the medium of the missions +but within the natural environment of the Indians. Over a period of more +than fifty years, while converts were being drawn into the mission +system, priests, soldiers, and ranchers were continually reaching +out into the interior, opening up the country and thus impinging upon +native life. A constant succession of expeditions, sorties, raids, and +campaigns moved in from the coast, left their mark on the land and its +inhabitants, then retreated to the missions and presidios. Most of these +forays were undertaken without official sanction and left no record save +in the memory of a few old men, who were interviewed by H. H. Bancroft +many years after the event. A good many expeditions and military +campaigns, however, were sponsored by the government or the church. Of +these, diaries were kept and written reports made. A rather long series +of such documents still exists. + +The diaries, reports, letters, and reminiscences of the Ibero-American +pioneers in California from 1770 to 1840 give us primary information for +which there is no substitute. In the first place, they fill in the gap +in our knowledge of the aboriginal peoples between what is deduced +from purely archaeological evidence and what is learned from personal +informants whose memories can reach back to a time only a little before +the year 1850. Moreover we learn a good deal about the location and +behavior of village or tribal groups which were entirely extinguished +before the memory of modern survivors. In the second place, we see in +detail the initial reaction of the Indian to the Spaniard in the wild +environment and witness the subsequent struggle for survival on the +part of the native population. In the third place, we obtain firsthand +knowledge concerning the primitive environment of the interior, the +condition of the land, the character and extent of vegetation, the +location and capacity of rivers, swamps, and lakes. Such data antedate +the memory and written descriptions of the earliest American observers +and so are of great value in tracing the changes which have since +occurred. + +The body of literature under consideration is found in only a few +places. Some documents are in the Mexican National Archive, with +microfilm possibly available. The largest single collection is in the +Bancroft Library at Berkeley, with smaller collections at the Huntington +Library and elsewhere. A few of the important diaries are in the form of +the original manuscripts or contemporary copies. The greater part of the +material, however, consists of transcripts of the originals made at the +order of H. H. Bancroft in the 1870's. Despite the very sloppy work done +by the paid copyists it is fortunate that the attempt was made, for the +documents themselves were nearly all destroyed in the San Francisco fire +of 1906. + +Some effort has been made to bring before the scholarly world and the +interested public certain of the outstanding accounts of expeditions +and explorations. The period of 1765 to 1776 has been very adequately +covered, particularly by the late Professor Herbert E. Bolton, who is +remembered for his editing of the diaries of Crespi, Portola, Anza, and +others. The later exploration has been the subject of a few works, such +as Gayton's translation of the Estudillo manuscripts. Both Herbert I. +Priestley and Donald C. Cutter have contributed to our body of knowledge +of the time. Priestley's little book on the Franciscan explorations, +finished after his death by Lillian E. Fisher, is a rather brief +general description of the expeditions to the Central Valley. Cutter's +exhaustive thesis (1950) is a very satisfactory exposition of Central +Valley exploration from the standpoint of the Spanish-Mexican colonial +policy and missionization. Cutter, however, merely paraphrases and +condenses the actual documents, thereby omitting much of the detail +to be found in the original accounts. Neither Priestley nor Cutter +concerns himself with Indian relations or explorations in Southern +California and on the Colorado River, nor do they carry their +consideration of the Central Valley past 1820. For a complete picture, +therefore, the student of the early nineteenth century must seek out +the primary documents. + +The written records within the area under discussion are deposited in +a very few libraries and archives and, moreover, the documents, with +the exceptions noted, are in handwritten Spanish. For these reasons +a valuable body of information can be reached only with relative +difficulty by students at large. Thus it seems worth while to assemble +this material, translate it into English, and disseminate it in printed +form among institutions of learning and research. At the same time a +certain minimum amount of editorial organization is necessary, together +with some explanation and commentary. + +The present group of translations embodies all the pertinent documents +I can find dealing with the Central Valley of California in the period +from 1800 to 1820. Not all the possible correlated references are +included. The emphasis is upon the actual progress of exploration +and physical contact with the natives--from the point of view of the +natives. Consequently, no attempt is made to include papers bearing +solely on political background, personal biography of participants, +detailed military or logistic preparations, controversies between +military, civilian, and ecclesiastical interests, and matters of +official policy. For the broad historical setting and the details of +organization the works of Bancroft, Bolton, Priestley, and Cutter will +be found entirely adequate. + +All the important diaries are presented, with two exceptions. One is +Arguello's account of his expedition to the upper Sacramento and +Trinity rivers in 1821. This manuscript is now being translated and +annotated as a separate work by Professor Robert F. Heizer, of the +University of California, and Professor Donald C. Cutter, of the +University of Southern California. The other is the Estudillo expedition +to the southern San Joaquin Valley in 1818. The Estudillo documents have +already been translated and edited by Dr. Anna H. Gayton (1936) and can +readily be obtained. + +In addition to the well-known, formal reports to the Central Authority +I have translated several excerpts from letters and memoirs. The +contemporary correspondence occasionally discusses briefly or +extensively expeditions of interest concerning which we have no other +knowledge. For completeness, therefore, these accounts must be included. +Concerning the memoirs some reservation is necessary. This type of +document furnishes a great deal of material for the later period of +1820-1840. There are, however, a number of passages which refer quite +clearly to events in the preceding decade. These are the reminiscences +of old men, talking about campaigns and battles which occurred more than +half a century earlier. The raconteurs were mostly rather ignorant, +their memory faulty, their attitude boastful. Their command of fact +is definitely unreliable, their personal viewpoint highly colored and +biased. Their accounts are nevertheless valuable for the picture they +give of the day-to-day personal contact between the white men and the +natives, and for the many interesting sidelights on the life and the +land of the Central Valley in its original condition. + +The author wishes to acknowledge with thanks a grant made by the +Institute of Social Sciences, of the University of California, for +photocopying and clerical assistance. + + + + +I. EARLY EXPEDITIONS, 1776-1803 + + +During the initial period of settlement and exploration in California, +from 1769 to 1776, several important and well-known expeditions entered +the area, among them those of Portola, Anza, Fages, and Canizares. As a +result the coastal strip and the vicinity of San Francisco Bay became +well known. The interior did not receive so much attention. Following +Anza only two recorded expeditions went into the Central Valley, that of +Moraga, described by Palou (Bolton, 1926) and that of Fages, the account +of which has been translated by Priestley (1913). + +In the meantime, and during the first two decades of Spanish occupation +of coastal California, individuals were slowly penetrating the interior. +Most of these left no record or trace, except on the health and +emotional outlook of the natives. Many of them were deserters from the +army, whose enlisted ranks contained many from the lowest strata of +Mexican society. Along the coast trouble with desertion began with the +Portola expedition itself (see Crespi's diary) and was commented upon by +both military and clerical writers for many years thereafter. Most of +the absconding soldiers stayed within the mission area but some reached +the interior valley. The earliest clear examples are cited by Garces in +the diary of his famous trip in 1776. In the upper San Joaquin Valley, +east of Bakersfield, he was told of two Spanish soldiers who had been +killed by the Indians for molesting women (Coues, 1900, p. 288) and +found a Spaniard married to an Indian woman (Coues, 1900, p. 295). + + +EXCERPTS FROM OFFICIAL CORRESPONDENCE + +A number of letters in the official correspondence of the late +eighteenth century refer to fugitive deserters. Of these several may be +quoted, primarily by way of illustration since a complete presentation +of such data would be very difficult. Documents cited are all in the +Bancroft Library, Berkeley, unless otherwise stated. + +It should be noted that the style in a great many of the transcripts +is indirect. The copyist made a paraphrase of the original letter and +prefaced his statement with the word "that." Thus in the first letter +below the copyist wishes it understood that the original letter said +that Sebastian Albitre ran away ... and so on. In some documents the +indirection is ignored and the text is translated directly. As a rule, +however, it is preferable to retain the circumlocution employed by +Bancroft's transcriber. + + _Blotter of Governor Fages_ + November 7, 1785 + (Cal. Arch., Prov. Rec., II: 348) + + That Sebastian Albitre ran away and with him the soldier of the + Presidio, Mariano Yepez; that after a few days the mistress of the + latter disappeared from her mission at Santa Clara; that he sent out + two parties to chase them as far as the Sierra Nevada; these parties + returned because their horses were badly exhausted; the pursuit will + be resumed in June. + + _Governor to Commandant at Santa Barbara_ + October 9, 1795 + (Cal. Arch., Prov. Rec., IV: 302) + + He should offer presents, or whatever they like, to the Indians, + so that they will catch Avila, who, as is known, is running as a + fugitive in the Tulare Valley with several Christians from San Juan + Bautista. He should make every effort to catch this man. + + _Marcos Briones to Hermenegildo Sal_ + San Luis Obispo, January 8, 1797 + (Cal. Arch., Prov. St. Pap., XVI: 239) + + Says that the Father[1] sent some Christian Indians in search of a + Gentile woman in order that she might be married to a Christian who + had been her husband when they were heathen. That on the return with + the Indian woman they passed by a rancheria where an old Gentile, + accompanied by his two sons, killed Toribio, one of those who had + gone after the Gentile woman. The latter was suspected of having + poisoned her Christian daughter who died in this mission. That today + he is setting out with three soldiers and some Christian Indians to + apprehend the culprits. + + _Marcos Briones to Sal_ + San Luis Obispo, January 14, 1797 + (Cal. Arch., Prov. St. Pap., XVI: 238-239) + + That on the 8th inst. he set out from this garrison in search of the + malefactors, as the governor had ordered him and he could not find + them. That in one rancheria, among those which he entered, an + old Indian woman told him that the Gentiles of that vicinity had + assembled opposite the Nacimiento [River] looking for the [road to + the] Tulares. That he turned back on account of lack of provisions + but intends to return [to the Tulares] on the 19th in order to + pacify that gathering of Gentiles. + + _Marcos Briones to Sal_ + San Luis Obispo, January 8, 1797 + (Cal. Arch., Prov. St. Pap., XVI: 239) + + He says that on the 18th he set out to apprehend the Gentile Indians + who had killed Toribio, the Christian Indian of this Mission. That + he fell upon a rancheria at the edge of the Valley of the Tulares, + where he knew was the chief of the malefactors, whom he succeeded + in catching. He brought him in company with two others whom he (the + malefactor) had forced to burn the corpse of the defunct Toribio. + That he arrived at this mission the 23rd and asked the said criminal + why he killed Toribio. He [the Indian] replied that it was because a + Christian [Indian], one of those who accompanied the deceased, had + come close to his house and had said: "Is the old robber[2] here? If + he is, why doesn't he come out?" Whereupon he and his son chased the + Christians as far as the place where they killed the said Toribio. + + +HERMENEGILDO SAL'S EXPEDITION, 1796 + +The first formally organized exploration, subsequent to Anza and Fages, +was apparently carried out by an army officer, Hermenegildo Sal, in +1796. He was a lieutenant in command of the Monterey garrison and +conducted a party into the Stockton area. He left no personal diary but +did write a letter to the Governor. It is the transcript, or rather +paraphrase, of the letter by one of Bancroft's workers which is here +presented. + + _Report of Hermenegildo Sal_ + San Francisco, January 31, 1796 + (Cal. Arch., Prov. St. Pap., XIV: 14-16) + + Report in which Lieutenant Hermenegildo Sal sets forth what he has + learned concerning various matters, in order to communicate it to + the Governor of the Province. + + That leaving the mission of Santa Clara or the town of San Jose, in + a northerly direction, at about 15 leagues, one reaches the Rio del + Pescadero,[3] which has good water, depth and current, and is so + called because fishing is done in it for salmon. That at one-quarter + league [farther on] is the Rio de San Francisco Jabier, wider than + the preceding and with more water, for the latter reaches to the + bottom of the saddle pad. That at about two leagues [farther on] is + the Rio de San Miguel, larger than the two others, and deeper, for + the water reaches to the back bow of the saddle. That the three have + no trees where they cross the valley of the Tulares. That at about + five leagues [farther on][4] is the Rio de la Pasion, populated with + ash, alder, and other trees, and with a very deep channel. + + That between the two last rivers is a fine oak park, in the area + toward the Sierra Madre which runs toward the north and is called + Sierra Nevada. + + That, going through the oak park and leaving on the left hand the + tule swamps, there is a region of fresh-water lakes so spaced + that there are pockets of solid ground in which are encountered + rancherias inhabited by Gentiles. [These are] brave and strong, have + small dragnets with stone sinkers, and make bread with flour from + tule roots and from acorns like that which they presented to Captain + Fernando de Rivera.[5] + + That these four rivers run from east to west and discharge into the + bay of the port of San Francisco. That when the tide rises salt + water is carried into them far upstream.[6] + + That the Sierra Madre is distant from the Rio de la Pasion a matter + of eight leagues. That the natives take two days to cross it. That + all the countryside abounds with fresh grass, tule swamps, and lakes + where deer breed. That before reaching the rivers, on the right hand + lies the territory of San Juan,[7] a short distance from the Sierra + Nevada, and visible from the presidio. + + That the names of the four rivers were given by Captain Fernando + Rivera, commander of these presidios, when he passed by there during + the month of December, 1776. + + (Under the heading "Information secured ... from the Christian + Indians of the Mission of San Francisco," is the following report.) + + That the first Indian told him that his people traded with a "nation + of dark Indians" and that the latter have priests.[8] + + (What follows is copied verbatim.) + + The second [Indian] gave news of the nations Julpones,[9] + Quinenseat, Taunantoc, and Quisitoc: the first are on the shore of + the estuary. The second are on the other side of the rivers; they + are tall and blond. The third trade with glass beads like ours. The + last are bald. He says the land is very hot and the Indians stay all + day in the lakes, the water of which is boiling, and this is the + reason why their hair falls out. The Indian reasserts that those + people have heads like their hands, but they are born with hair like + everyone else. + + An Indian woman named Delfina told the mayor-domo, Diego Olbera, and + his wife: "One day, having crossed the rivers and traveled five + days, soldiers and priests are encountered who give the Indians + pieces of cotton cloth, blankets, axes and knives." That there are + [i.e., they had] wheels and, as she stated, the latter were from + carts or wagons, giving the appearance that this was their mode of + travel. + + That the above is the news which he has been able to secure and + which he is transmitting [to the Governor]. + + + + +II. EXPEDITIONS, 1804-1805 + + +In 1804, and probably in 1805, there were various penetrations of the +valley. Chief of these was the visit of Father Fray Juan Martin to the +village of Bubal. Since this trip was entirely unauthorized, it was not +described until 1815. This silence for ten years is significant, since +it opens up the possibility that many other such informal expeditions +occurred--without having been written up afterward. + + +FATHER MARTIN'S VISIT TO CHOLAM, 1804 + +Father Martin's trip to Cholam did not actually reach the valley, but +attained its borders. It is worth recording as showing the type of +activity characteristic of the period. + + _Jose de la Guerra, Commandant, to Governor Arrillaga_ + Monterey, January 29, 1804 + (Prov. St. Pap., Benicia, Military, XXXIV: 266-267) + + Communicates that Father Juan Martin, minister of San Miguel, + protected by one soldier, went to a village called Cholam and asked + the chief of all the villages thereabouts, named Guchapa, to give + him some children to baptize. This was refused by the chief, who + told the Father and the soldier to get out immediately or it would + go badly with them, for he "was not afraid of the soldiers, who + were cowards, and he knew with certainty that they would die like + everyone else." + + Commandant Guerra sent a sergeant, a corporal, and thirteen soldiers + to take the chief, Guchapa, prisoner. The expedition set out + December 22. It returned January 10 bringing as captives Chief + Guchapa, his son, two other chieftains, and two Christians. (The + commandant says he includes the report of the sergeant, but it is + not to be found. He talks of "the heroic struggle of Guchapa and the + good passage provided them by the Indian Cojapa.") + + The commandant continues saying that Guchapa made the proposition + that he would bring out all the Christian Indians there were in his + villages. This was accepted and he left his son as hostage. "I + dismissed him with some presents which I gave him as a reward for + his good behavior with the troops and waited a little while for his + return. This was in order to grant them forgiveness together with + the warning that in the future they should hold in respect the + troops and the Fathers. This was the least which it seems to me + should be done and said."[1] + + +FATHER MARTIN'S VISIT TO BUBAL, 1805 + + _Fray Juan Martin to P. P. Fray Jose Senan_ + San Miguel, April 26, 1815 + (Santa Barbara Arch., VI: 85-89) + + My venerated Father President Fray Jose Senan: good health! + + Under date of 4 April, this year, the Reverend Father Prefect + requested us to inform Your Reverence concerning the state of the + heathen Indians near this mission, particularly as pertains to their + inclination to receive Holy Baptism. + + In complying with my orders I will state with candor that the desire + of the neighboring heathens is great, for twelve years have already + passed during which they have manifested good will, now to the + soldiers on the various occasions when the troops have gone out, now + to the Fathers who have likewise gone, and now also to the neophytes + on the very numerous occasions when they have gone visiting to the + Tulares. Their favorable disposition will continue if the fugitives + from the north do not set them against us. Thus the most recent + mission Indians to return from leave, who came from one of the + Valley villages called Tache, informed us that Indians had arrived + on horseback from the north saying that the Fathers were simply + going to kill the Indians. Satan will do his utmost to gain + possession of more than 4,000 souls[2] who will be started on the + road to salvation if a mission is established in the nearby Tulare + Valley. This I said in substance many times to Governor Don Jose + Joaquin de Arrillaga, may he rest in peace. + + Although I saw him to be inclined to establish missions on the + rivers, and in spite of the high regard in which I held this + gentleman, nevertheless on one occasion when he asked me what I + thought about new foundations in the Tulare Valley, I spoke thus: + "Sir, why do you wish to place missions where they are not wanted? + And why do you neglect the villages of Bubal, Tache, Chuntache, + Notonto, and Telame, which do want them? So that they may kill + soldiers and priests and thus deprive us of the spiritual conquest? + Aside from the primary reason that they are sons of God, if those + who wish and beg for missions do not receive them, they will take up + arms against all the soldiers who enter their territory." Witnesses + to this truth are Father Pedro Munoz, Senor Moraga and in part I + myself. In order that Your Reverence may fully understand this I + shall set forth what I saw in the year 1804 in the village of Bubal + where I went with no more protection than two soldiers. + + Repeatedly I was informed by the neophytes who had been inhabitants + of the villages of the Tulare Valley that the people of the region + wanted to see me, that they were well disposed, and that they would + give me their children to baptize. Finally they said that I might go + without fear and I confess that I went with no permission from + anyone. + + So I left in the month of November in the year mentioned and at the + end of the third day I arrived at the first suburb of the village + Bubal, to which I gave the name La Salve. On first seeing us the + heathen concealed their women in some little huts but as soon as + they saw that we were coming in peace they brought the women out in + order to make a fire and cook food for the Father.[3] This they did, + using sticks which had been brought for more than eight leagues for + the purpose of farming the [Z ..., meaning unintelligible] when + they gathered with their neighbors for some ceremony. They did not + burn these sticks although they knew it was certain to be very cold, + because for many leagues around one cannot find even small brush. + + In the evening the people from the main village came to invite me to + the place where they lived, saying that where I was there were no + people, nor children to give me, and therefore I should come without + fail. I promised I would go the following day, and I did so. As soon + as I arrived they presented me with their little sons so that I + might carry them away to be baptized. There were so many that the + soldiers who accompanied me objected strongly, pointing out that + there were no fewer than two hundred children, and that we must + leave them. Seeing such a harvest, Your Reverence may well imagine + how happy I was at the prospect of gaining so many infant souls for + paradise. But Satan, always the fiend, brought it about that for the + moment we did not gain a single one. + + It happened that the chief was not at this place (which I called La + Dolorosa). It was necessary for me to send for him for I did not + venture to take them [the children] away without his sanction. There + arrived a heathen, whom I took to be the chief. As the reason for my + coming was made clear to him, which was to make them Sons of God, + my request affected him very badly. He began to rail against the + soldiers and their weapons in such a crazy fashion that the poor + people who had given me their children, probably scared, fled in a + body and I was left with no one. This man was one of those who with + a bow in his hand fears nobody. His name is Chape. The following + day I condemned as vigorously as I could his wicked way of acting + and was even tempted to order him punished. However, thank God, I + satisfied myself with what I had done, in consideration of the fact + that one of the soldiers was the commander of the garrison [at the + mission] and that both priest and soldiers might expect a just + reprimand if any injury resulted. I relaxed my determination not + to return home without visiting the villages mentioned above and + without taking with me as many small children as they would give me. + Finally I went home quite disappointed at having lost, because of + one villain, such a harvest for Heaven. + + I may mention that the latter individual was taken to Monterey where + I believe it is generally known that he was one of the first to + receive the salutary waters of baptism. What I regret is that so + many heathen are dying not only in continuous internal warfare but + also from numerous diseases, especially syphilis. Therefore if a + mission is not placed among them soon, when one is established there + will remain no one to convert. + + May God help them and keep Your Reverence safe for many years, + together with your companion, Fray Marcos, as you desire. + + Fray Juan Martin + + +EXPEDITION OF SECOND LIEUTENANT LUIS ARGUELLO, 1805 + + _Jose Arguello, Commandant, to Governor Arrillaga_ + San Francisco, June 25, 1805 + (Prov. St. Pap., Benicia, Military, XXXIII: 251-252) + + This letter is accompanied by the report of the expedition, a report + made by Second Lieutenant Luis Arguello. The latter on his mission, + which occupied him thirty-two days, traversed "all the ranges of San + Jose and Santa Clara as far as opposite the sheep ranch, scouting + all the rivers, plains and tule swamps without having found any sign + of wild Indians...."[4] + + Second Lieutenant Arguello set out on the expedition with twenty-two + men and returned on the 15th of July bringing with him twenty-two + Indian renegades (thirteen Christians and 9 heathen). + + On the trip he visited the village of the celebrated Joscoui[5] and + captured everyone except this chieftain.[6] + + Among the heathen captives there were six who were in part guilty of + the murder of George the Christian. + + Having been solicited, all the prisoners were baptized and + distributed to the ministers of San Jose and Santa Clara. It was + recommended that these Fathers moderate the punishment given to the + six [mentioned above]. + + + + +III. EXPEDITIONS BY ZALVIDEA AND MORAGA, 1806-1807 + + +The year 1806 was notable for the important recorded expeditions of +Zalvidea and Moraga. The report of the first of these is translated +herewith. + + +FATHER ZALVIDEA'S EXPEDITION, 1806 + + _Report of an expedition to the interior by Father Jose Maria de + Zalvidea_ + From 19 July to 14 August of 1806 + (Santa Barbara Arch., IV: 49-68) + +_Saturday, July 19, 1806._ The expedition left Santa Barbara in order to +carry out the orders of the Governor contained in his official letter of +the 10th of this month. + +On the morning of this day we left Santa Barbara and in the afternoon +arrived at the mission of Santa Ynez. + +_July 20._ This day, after Mass, we left Santa Ynez, going toward the +north. At three leagues we reached the remains of the village called +Jonatas; after another three leagues from this village there is the +village of Saca whose Indians are Christians of Santa Ynez. At five +leagues from this village we came upon another, called Olomosong, +consisting of three houses. In this village there are living 2 old +women and 4 young women with the chief. Here I baptized 2 old women, +one of eighty years, the other of seventy. To the first I gave the +name of Maria Dominga and to the second Maria Geronima. + +_July 21._ This morning we left the village of Olomosong, going north, +and at four leagues we came to a village of five houses inhabited by 4 +men and 7 women. In this village, called Gecp, I baptized 2 old women of +eighty to ninety years. The first I called Maria Josefa and the second +Josefa Maria. Today my interpreter had to go back on account of illness +and I was left with another from Mission San Fernando, who also asked +to be relieved. All the road today has been through broken mountains, +through which ran an insignificant arroyo. We slept in a valley in which +there was a small stream of water. + +_July 22._ Very early in the morning we set out toward the north. At the +beginning of our journey we had to climb a mountain by a very bad path. +Soon we came out upon some plains[1] and at two leagues we reached the +village of Talihuilimit where I baptized 3 old women, the first of sixty +years, one of whose legs was paralyzed. To her I gave the name Maria +Magdalena. This woman has a son at Santa Ynez. The second might have +been sixty-five years old, and had been bitten in the hip by a bear. To +her I gave the name Maria Marta. She has a Christian son at La Purisima. +The third whom I baptized might have been over one hundred years old +and I called her Maria Francisca. The village may contain 25 heathen +Indians. In the afternoon we traveled toward the east and at six leagues +found the village of Lisahua.[2] This village consists of 28 heathens of +whom I baptized 5: 4 extremely old women, and 1 old man. The women I +named Maria Juana, Juana Maria, Maria Antonia, and Antonia Maria; the +man I named Juan. Near this village flows a stream of water like that at +Mission San Fernando. The land is arid and saline. There is no grass or +timber. + +_July 23._ This day at dawn we left the village of Lisahua, going toward +the east, and at four leagues we found a village called Cuia, with nine +houses and 14 men, 19 women, 8 children, all heathen. I baptized here +5 old women and 2 old men: the women I named Maria Ambrosia, Ambrosia +Maria, Maria Antonia, Antonia Maria, Nicolosa, and the men Ambrosio and +Nicolas. Near the village are three small springs which are of little +consequence. The land is arid, saline, and without any timber in the +vicinity. + +Four leagues south of this village is the village of Siguecin. The +latter has 10 men, 19 women, and a few children. I baptized here two old +women, one of more than one hundred, the other of seventy, years of age. +The first I called Anastacia and the second Rafaela. In these two last +villages there are two little wells. The country is arid and alkaline +and there are no trees in the neighborhood. We went back to sleep at the +village of Lisahua. + +_July 24._ Early in the morning we started out toward the east. At two +leagues we came upon a salt marsh, a cross made of logs, and a wild +horse. At four leagues we reached the village of Sgene.[3] This village +consists of 7 men, 16 women, and 3 children. I baptized 3 old women of +seventy to eighty years old and one man of the same age. The names of +the baptized were as follows: Maria Agustina, Agustina Maria, Maria +Francisca, and Francisco Solano. Seven leagues east of this village we +encountered the village called Malapoa,[4] which has 29 men, 22 women, +and 8 children. I baptized at this village an old woman of eighty years +and named her Maria Rufina. The territory covered today is arid, without +herbage or trees. In the afternoon of this day I went out with the +Lieutenant and a few soldiers to a little settlement of Indians +belonging to the village of Napolea, the settlement being three leagues +from the village. There is a small spring one league from the village of +Napolea and on the way from Napolea to the little settlement there are +lands good for sowing crops. One can see mountains which have a few pine +trees and in the near-by hills there is some pasturage. In the little +ranch mentioned I baptized five old women and one old man, their names +being respectively Maria Lucia, Lucia Maria, Maria Dominga, Dominga +Maria, Fernandina, and Fernando. A league away from this settlement one +sees a range of mountains on which pine forests are growing. + +_July 25._ Today after Mass we took our way in a northerly direction +and at eight leagues came to the village of Buenavista,[5] consisting, +according to the statement of the Indians, of 36 men, 144 women, and 38 +children. This village is on the shore of a lake eight leagues long and +five leagues wide. The Indians travel on rafts [_balsas_] on the lake. +The source of the latter is a big river which divides into three +branches, and then all these branches join again to form the lake. I +baptized in the village of Buenavista one old woman of ninety years and +named her Antonina. The Indians say that a day and a half journey from +Buenavista is a crossing to the other side of the lake. We spent the +night two leagues from Buenavista. + +_July 26._ Today after Mass we traveled till noon to the east along the +shore of the lake. After noon we went northward. The area covered in the +morning consisted of extensive plains. In quality the land is alkaline. +The shore of the lake is completely covered with a great deal of tule. +Elsewhere, and in the hills bordering the plains, I saw neither +pasturage nor watering places. + +After noon we went north over wide plains and the latter have a +little grass. At dark we arrived at a village on the extremity of the +lake called Sisupistu. We were accompanied by several Indians from +Buenavista. As soon as the Indians of the village at the end of the lake +saw the others coming they fled from their village to a tule swamp near +by. At the same time their warriors caused an uproar by firing a spear +at the chief of the Buenavista Indians. The cause of the excitement was +the arrival of the Buenavista Indians, who were enemies of the others; +of all this we were in ignorance. As soon as I discovered the reason for +the riot I managed to talk to the chief of the village of Sisupistu and +convince him that we came to be his friends and we did not know that +the Indians of Buenavista were his enemies. I called together the two +hostile chiefs and made them become friends and soon everything quieted +down. We slept within sight of the village and the Buenavista Indians +remained all night in our camp. In order that there might be no conflict +among the natives I collected the bows and arrows carried by the +Buenavista Indians. The night passed quietly and on the next day I +returned the weapons. After having made presents to the Buenavista +Indians I told them to go back to their village (which indeed they did) +and exhorted them to keep peace between the two villages. Both chiefs +gave their word that henceforth they would not fight with each other. + +I saw in the village of Sisupistu from 50 to 60 men and a few women, +but since at this season most of the Indians are away gathering +their harvests it was not possible to determine the exact number of +inhabitants of either village. Moreover, although they are questioned +repeatedly, they usually do not tell the truth. I counted the houses of +the Indians of this village [Sisupistu] and found 28, from which your +Reverence may infer the approximate number of people. + +_July 27._ In the morning, after Mass, we went to the village and there +I baptized an old woman whom I named Maria Anna. At 8:30 in the morning +we left the village and went eastward. After one league we came upon an +old woman, in a little hut, who was at her last breath, destitute of all +human assistance. After having labored very hard to revive her, so that +I might make her a Christian, I finally attained my desire and named her +Maria Gertrudis: two hours after baptism she surrendered her soul to its +Creator. This morning we traveled about four leagues over arid, slightly +grassy plains. Soon we entered a valley and after a further two leagues +we established our camp[6] with the intention of staying in it several +days so as to explore the country, which merited some attention. In +the afternoon we examined some of the valley. We discovered some large +plains which have some grass. All this territory is similar in character +to that around Mission San Gabriel. We saw a few little streams of +water, and then returned to our camp. + +_[July 28]._ This morning I went out with the Lieutenant and some +soldiers to explore the lands and watercourses in the environs of the +camp. A quarter of a league from the starting point we found a stream +which carried a good quantity of water, substantially the same amount as +the creek at Mission San Gabriel. A gunshot from the creek is a hill +heavily covered with oaks and live oaks; the stream runs through land +well suited to cultivation. A quarter of an hour from this creek is +another one which has an equivalent amount of arable land. The latter +stream could support two irrigation ditches. Half a league beyond it is +still another which contains about twice as much water as the last one, +but the water disappears at a distance of two gunshots. Going down this +stream bed for two leagues one finds another creek [the fourth] which +runs from between two hills and has no land fit for cultivation. In +addition to the creeks mentioned there is another [the fifth] which has +land good for crops and could support an irrigation ditch. There are +also in the vicinity some swamps. + +The position of the area explored this morning is as follows. From north +to south it is surrounded by hills which make a semicircle. It is seven +leagues distant from the end of the lake and the plains are much larger +than those of the Mission Santa Clara. All this territory is covered +with a species of herb which has a little stem with a yellow flower, the +stalk being no more than a quarter [of a yard] high. All the hills which +encircle this area have also a little herbage such that, although the +vegetation is not dense, the great extent of the plains will make it +possible to maintain twelve thousand head of cattle. There is also in +the vicinity of this site a mountain range covered with pine forest. The +place where we established camp is called Tupai. To the north of this +range are several Indian villages, according to what they say. + +_July 29._ This morning I went out with the Sergeant, Corporal, and +seven soldiers toward the village of Tacui,[7] while the others stayed +in camp. At three leagues we came to a stream of water which runs out of +the canyon called the Grapevine. This watercourse discharges onto some +plains which are similar in character to those of San Gabriel. On the +plain itself the stream could supply two irrigation ditches. On the +other side of Grapevine Canyon there is a mountain range which has +much pine. At one league from the creek the village of Tacui lies in +a valley. It consists of twenty-three souls. There I baptized two old +men whom I named Fernando and Ramon. At sunset we returned to the camp. + +_July 30._ This day we spent in camp so that the horses might +recuperate, for they had been very badly used. + +_July 31._ At four o'clock in the afternoon we went north and at four +leagues we stopped for the night. These four leagues have been over pure +plains with a little grass. But this night there was no water. + +_August 1._ At dawn we started our journey northward. At five leagues +we came upon the village of the rivers, or Yaguelame.[8] These rivers, +which we saw were two, are close to the village. The first is about +16 yards across and 1 yard deep. Very close is the other, which will +measure 7 yards across and 1/3 of a yard deep. These rivers come from a +big river which emerges from a range of mountains. The big river divides +into the two branches described and another which goes by a different +route, and this the Indians say is smaller, and at times dries up. From +these rivers is formed the Lake of the Tulares, which I have described. +Three leagues below this village the rivers reunite and form the lake. +In the three leagues there is a great forest of cottonwood. All the +territory covered this morning is alkaline, and with some grass. The +cottonwood forest has considerable foliage and also grass. To the north +of the village one can see nothing but bare hills. + +At two days' journey from this village is located the tribe of Bald +Indians, consisting of thirteen villages, all to the north of this +village [Yaguelame]. In the latter I counted 92 men from seven to forty +years of age, from which I conclude that the village of the rivers +contains at least 300 souls. All these villages volunteer themselves +for baptism, provided that missions are founded in their territory. The +chiefs promise to become the first Christians and some of them say to +me: "Why do you not come without delay to establish missions in our +lands?" They all appear to be good people and show themselves to be of +excellent spirit. Several of the Indians accompanied us, showing us the +trails and serving us in all ways asked of them. In all directions from +the village of the rivers, say the Indians, are other Indian villages. + +_August 2._ This morning we left the village of the rivers, going south. +After three leagues we stopped. The Indians relate that from a village +called Majagua on the Colorado River other Indians continually come to +trade with them. They take ten days to make the trip and on the road one +finds no water. + +_August 3._ At two o'clock in the afternoon we set out to the southward. +A little later in the afternoon we passed the end of the lake[9] and one +league farther on we stopped for the night. All the land this afternoon +has consisted of immense plains which have a little pasturage. Thus from +the end of the lake to the rivers eight thousand head of cattle could be +maintained. + +_August 4._ In the morning of this day we went on southward. At four +leagues we entered a canyon where some years ago the Indians killed two +soldiers. At the entrance of this canyon a stream of water flows out, +carrying a quantity equal to that of the San Gabriel River. Soon we came +to a village of five houses, called Taslupi,[10] but at present there +are no Indians living on it. This stream emerges onto some flats, which +are sandy and gravelly. The water is somewhat saline, but nevertheless +not so seriously as to prevent its' being potable. Part of both morning +and afternoon we traveled through the above-mentioned canyon. It is +five leagues distant from the village at the end of the lake, the same +distance from Buenavista, and seven leagues from the rivers. Along the +canyon there is a range of hills widely covered with a pine forest. + +_August 5._ This morning I went out with the Lieutenant and some +soldiers to investigate a watering place seen previously by the +Lieutenant. All the morning and part of the afternoon we traveled along +a pine-covered range over a very bad trail. Two o'clock in the afternoon +arrived and the watering place was still far distant for we would have +to traverse still another range of hills in order to reach it. The +animals were exhausted. The weather was stormy, with thunder, hail, and +rain. For these reasons we decided to return to the camp and abandon the +search for the watering place. + +_August 6._ At dawn of this day we began to go eastward through the +entire length of the canyon. At the end of the afternoon we found a +little bog with a small quantity of water. This whole canyon is +surrounded on all sides by pine forest. + +_August 7._ This morning I went out with the Sergeant and seven soldiers +to the village of Casteque. We found no Indians for they were all away +at their fields of Guata. + +_August 8._ On the morning of this day we began our journey by going +eastward and at five leagues came to a marsh which had near by some +lands covered with a little pasturage. In the afternoon we arrived +at a wide valley[11] and went about seven leagues over level country. +Eventually we stopped for the night in this valley, there being no water +at all. + +_August 9._ At dawn we covered the whole valley, going eastward. This +valley is sixteen leagues long and in all this expanse there is no +watering place to be found. Beyond the valley is the mountain range of +San Gabriel.[12] In the afternoon of this day we went two leagues and +stopped to sleep near a gully with plenty of water. This creek has no +land suitable for cultivation. Near it we saw two little huts in which +six Indians were staying on account of their Guata crops. + +_August 10._ After Mass we resumed our journey and went all day through +hills adjacent to the San Gabriel Mts. At noon we saw the remains of a +village and a few wells. One league farther on we came upon a stream +full of water but without land for cultivation nor much pasturage in its +vicinity. In the afternoon we traveled about six leagues through hilly +country and in all this distance there was no watering place. + +_August 11._ At dawn of this day we set out toward the east. At seven +leagues we came to the village of Atongai; a league and a half from +this village there is a swamp full of water. There are lands which, if +watered, would yield grain. Around the village pine forests are visible. +The village consists of 32 men, 36 women, and 15 children. At four +leagues from this village is the village of Guapiabit in which we stayed +for the night. + +_August 12._ Today we rested at Guapiabit. The village has 19 men, 16 +women, and 11 children. I baptized here 3 old women and 2 old men. I +gave the names Juan and Antonio to the men and Juana, Antonia, and Clara +to the women. Two leagues from this village there is a hill covered with +pine forest, and near the village is a well filled with water and land +moist enough to support crops. To the south, the other side of the +mountains, there are villages of Indians. At the village of Atongai +I baptized 2 old men and 3 old women, to whom I gave the names Maria +Ignacia, Maria Ramona, Maria Dominga, Ignacio, and Ramon. + +_August 13._ This morning we left Guapiabit, going toward the west, and +at four leagues reached the village Moscopiabit, in which we saw 15 to +18 adult heathen and a few children. I baptized 2 old women whom I named +Francisca and Ambrosia. At four leagues from this village we found a +village of five houses which was uninhabited. Two leagues from the +latter runs a big stream and, according to what I was told, this stream +runs into the Santa Ana River. At a short distance from the creek we +spent the night. + +_August 14._ This morning we set out in the same direction as the +previous day. At two leagues we came upon a very old Indian who could +hardly walk. Having instructed him in everything necessary to baptism, +and he having voluntarily accepted the Holy Rite I proceeded to baptize +him on the trail where we found him. He did not know from what village +he came. He said he lived with another Indian, and no more could we +ascertain. + +At four leagues from the place where we had slept the last night we came +to a stream filled with water and well provided with lands for crops. +Two leagues beyond we found another of the same sort and with the same +amount of water as the last one. Near this watering place is the village +of Guapiana. There we found several children from San Gabriel. I +baptized an old woman and called her Gabriela. To the old man this +morning I gave the name.... In the baptisms which I have performed I +have undertaken to make a prior judgment with reference to the condition +in which those to be baptized found themselves, so as to preserve +consistently the significance of baptism. All those baptized embraced +the ceremony voluntarily, after having been instructed in the dogmas of +our Holy Faith and having previously made public and private avowal of +the principal mysteries of our religion and the repudiation of their +past sins. + +This night we entered San Gabriel, and as attestation I sign. + + Fray Jose Maria de Zalvidea + + +LIEUTENANT GABRIEL MORAGA'S EXPEDITION, 1806 + +The Moraga expedition of 1806 was recorded by Father Fray Pedro Munoz, +who accompanied it as chaplain. His diary, or report, is translated +below. + +Concerning the background of and preparation for the expedition there +is a great deal of correspondence, a full exposition of which will +be found in Cutter's thesis (MS, chap. IV). Since the political and +military details are irrelevant here, they are omitted. + + +_Diary of Father Pedro Munoz_ + +Diary of the expedition made by Don Gabriel Moraga, Second Lieutenant +of the Company of San Francisco to the new discoveries in the Tulare +Valley: by order of the Governor Don Jose Joaquin de Arrillaga. The +first day September 21, 1806. (Santa Barbara Arch., IV: 1-47.) + +_1st day and 21 [September]._ On the morning of this day the troops were +informed in a formal address of the purpose toward which God was guiding +them in the present expedition and of the merit they would acquire if, +following the Voice of God as transmitted through their chief, they +fulfilled their duty. In resignation and accord we left the mission of +San Juan Bautista at about two o'clock in the afternoon. We went more or +less to the east for a league and a half in the afternoon, traversing a +great plain, well covered with forage, to arrive at a stream called that +of the Huzaymas. It is a creek well populated with alders, oaks, and +other shrubs. It dries up in the summer and has water only in a few +pools. It has a wide bed and could be of considerable importance in the +rainy season. In this place we made camp for the following night, during +which nothing particular occurred.[13] + +_2nd day and 22 [September]._ At dawn the expedition got under way +and experienced the labor of a bad road. Having traveled about eight +leagues, a halt was made at the entrance of the Tulare plain at a spot +discovered by the expedition which went out from the Presidio of San +Francisco, and which is called San Luis Gonzaga because it was found on +this day. This place has a fair spring, quite adequate for crops. This +spring flows into a moderate-sized stream bed. It was found to be +dry and could furnish a current only in the rainy season. The lands +surrounding this place are saline. During the night the troops suffered +the discomfort of three showers. This is all that is worth noting.[14] + +_3rd day and 23 [September]._ On the morning of this day we set forth +toward the east and having gone in this direction six or eight leagues +we stopped at a spot, previously discovered, called Santa Rita. Here +camp was established, so that in going out from it new discoveries could +be made. Before reaching this point a big creek bed is encountered, +which is quite deep in parts but contains water only in pools. This area +is somewhat saline and very heavily covered with green vegetation at +this season. In all this region there are very numerous bands of deer +and antelope. This locality of Santa Rita is a stream which contains +water only in the same manner as the previously mentioned place [i.e., +San Luis Gonzaga], but in a much scantier quantity because of the very +sandy soil. There are also great tule swamps in all this region and much +black willow along this stream.[15] + +_4th day and 24 [September]._ This morning the expedition went south +(leaving the camp at the same spot) in search of a village which, +according to information, was of 400 people. We had the misfortune to +find no one in it and saw only signs of its' having been inhabited. Not +being able to ascertain whither the people had gone we turned eastward +to investigate a large river, previously discovered by Second Lieutenant +Don Gabriel and called by him the San Joaquin. The latter river is about +two leagues distant from the camp at Santa Rita. In the rainy season +this river and its adjacent land may be impassable, according to the +vestiges left by immense overflows of water. On the route taken two +large stream beds were encountered the waters of which supply the San +Joaquin River. On all sides tremendous tule swamps present themselves, +which can be very miry in wet years. From the river we returned to the +camp, and this concluded the day. + +_5th day and 25 [September]._ Today the camp was moved to the +above-mentioned San Joaquin River. It has fine meadows of good land and +excellent pasture toward the south, although there are some patches of +alkali and salt. We pitched camp on the banks of the river. Beaver +abound and also salmon, according to what was told us by the Indians +native to this country. + +In the afternoon of this day forty-two warriors came to our camp and +showed themselves to be friendly. They presented us with a little fish. +I made them acquainted with the purpose of our visit, showing them an +image of our Lady of Sorrows. This they received with much satisfaction, +appearing, according to their behavior, ready to enroll under the banner +of the Divine Savior. Finally, taking advantage of our good faith and +confidence, they remained in the camp all night, receiving also +refreshment from us and admiring exceedingly our clothing and +ornaments.[16] + +_6th day and 26 [September]._ In the morning of this day we talked to +the Indians, who were still with us, exhibiting a desire to visit them +in their village. Soon they offered their company and guidance. With +this assurance we set forth, and having traveled about three leagues we +arrived at the village.[17] It was situated on the other side of the +river, hidden among some willow trees. It is called Nupchenche and may +have about 250 souls, more or less, under their chief, called Choley. +The reception they gave us was as follows. There came out a very old +woman, who sprinkled us with seeds. Emerging at the same time, the +chiefs led us to the interior of the village where between intertwined +willow trees they had stretched out some mats and deerskins for our +reception. On these they placed an abundance of their food, with two +very white loaves of a seed which resembles our rice. Having made the +effort to eat--for they are insulted if one slights the food--I went +on to present the purpose of our visit. They all received my talk with +pleasure and, having listened silently to the Divine Word, they begged +to become Christians. I baptized 23 old women and 3 old men. The rest of +the Indians regretted not being made Christians also. I explained the +reasons why they must wait for a mission in order that they may reach +Heaven. May Almighty God grant it to them. They wanted me to stay with +them permanently, but since this could not be, I exhorted them always to +seek baptism and forsake heathendom, especially when they found +themselves in danger of death. All these lands are fine and well +pastured. They abound in wild tomatoes. + +_7th day and 27 [September]._ In the morning we crossed the river and, +taking a northerly direction, we pushed through about a league of very +high, thick tules, in the midst of which could be seen a few clearings +well covered with grass. After traveling about three leagues, more or +less, we stopped at a stream which runs from east to west.[18] It has +no running water, only a few pools, where we were forced to pitch camp. +From the point where we left the tule swamps to this place the land +is really miserable. Salt flats and alkali patches, with innumerable +ground-squirrel burrows are all that one can see. There are at this spot +about sixty oak trees and a few willows in the bed of the stream. The +forage was extremely scanty, and that the country appeared to have +been burned over by the Indians did not conceal the fact that the land +is very poor. Consequently there is little pasturage. This place is +called the Mariposas ["the butterflies"] because of their great number, +especially at night. In the morning they become extremely troublesome, +for their aggressiveness reaches the point where they obscure the light +of the sun. They came at us so hard that one of them flew into the ear +of a corporal of the expedition. It caused him much discomfort and no +little effort to get it out. + +_8th day and 28 [September]._ This day, in spite of its being Sunday, +the party was divided into three groups on account of the necessity of +shifting camp. This in turn was due to the lack of water and grass. One +group remained to guard the camp. Another turned north and the other +east-northeast. Both these groups ran onto a fine river on the banks of +which were many Indians. All these, however, began to run away as soon +as they spied us. The Lieutenant was able to collect twelve by assuring +them of our good will. The Sergeant, and I with him, going to the +east-northeast, collected up to eighteen, but no matter how much he +explained his good intentions, he could attract no one else. They were +rendered deaf by their fear. + +Lieutenant Don Gabriel received word of five other villages situated on +the river at some distance from this one. In the latter were 250 souls, +according to the information of the Indians. After having found some +good spots for the horses and for a camp, they returned to the place on +the Mariposa where they waited for the rest of the troops. + +_9th day and 29 [September]._ The departure was arranged very early on +this day, the direction east-northeast. Having traveled about three +leagues, we encountered the river which was discovered the previous day. +This river we call the Merced [Our Lady of Mercy]. It has fine meadows +and is well populated with heathen Indians, as is attested by the many +straight and wide footpaths which are found in all the meadows and along +the banks of the river. We are hoping to find a place suitable for a +foundation, for the entire river bottom possesses fine lands, well +covered with grass and populated with oak trees. It all should be +examined and everything as found should be recorded on the day it is +inspected. The river has fine water, abundant in great measure for +cattle, crops, etc. The borders of this river carry much willow, ash, +poplar, and shrubbery. + +We came upon two villages, but all the people had retreated to the +mountains on account of the fear that beset them as soon as they +detected our approach. In one of the villages we met an old woman who +was not able to flee because she was completely incapacitated by age. +As soon as we were able to approach her, she gathered strength in her +decrepit bones and plunged into the river with a splash. One of the +neophytes among the camp followers was forced to pull off his clothes in +a great hurry and pull her out in spite of her attempt to surrender +to the fury of the rough waves rather than come to us, even though we +showed the greatest friendliness. Finally, having extricated her, we +managed to calm her fright, by virtue of the kind treatment we gave her +in accordance with our existing situation. As soon as she seemed to me +to feel better I began to instruct her, setting before her the Kingdom +of God and giving her as adequate a lesson as was permitted by the +shortness of the time. I baptized her, she giving very clear evidence +of the joy which filled her heart. Afterward, thoroughly exhausted, +she was given a safe conduct, but even after she understood the meaning +of this, she preferred to stay with us.[19] + +_10th day and 30 [September]._ On this day one portion of the party went +to the northwest and discovered another river similar to the Merced +in its copious and Christian flow of water. But its banks are closer +together. Another group went to the east, up the river. It found many +heathen, without doubt from the five villages about which we had been +given notice. At noon some heathen were seen among the willows along the +river. They were hailed in the most friendly manner possible, but they +showed themselves to be timid and did not dare to come out of their +hiding places. Finally, convinced of our good faith and good intentions, +three of them arrived at our camp. They were given something to eat and +afterward a few presents were distributed among them, and then they were +able to breathe freely. Then I told them how pleased I would be if they +called their companions, and indeed they did so. In a short while they +brought up to thirty persons, saying at the same time that the others +were very much afraid and because of this did not wish to come. They +entered the camp in this manner: on leaving the willow thicket along the +river they laid down their weapons under a leafy oak tree and then in +good order took the path to the encampment two by two, one of them in +advance crying out in a loud voice. According to the interpreter, all he +said consisted of a prayer for our friendship and of a demonstration of +his good will. To this end it was decided to give them some food, and +thereafter they went off very well content. They asked for a mission +and baptism, after having been advised of the excellency of God and the +benefit which would accrue to their souls. The Merced River is covered +with wild vines and the Indians are bald and rather stupid. At this spot +a cross was raised, which concluded the day. + +_11th day and 1 [October]._ On this day the expedition continued in the +same direction, toward the northwest, in search of the river discovered +yesterday.[20] Having traveled about seven or eight leagues we reached +it. It is a big river, as previously written while we were on the +Merced. Its banks are close together and it provides only small meadows +and a shortage of pasturage, because of the saline soil. We named this +river Our Lady of Sorrows [Dolores] on account of its' having been +discovered on Her day in September. No heathen Indians were found on the +river but we did see signs of several villages. No doubt those from the +previous river [Merced] had brought them word, as a result of which they +had taken flight. This was confirmed by the wide, heavily used trails +which were encountered. + +_12th day and 2 [October]._ In the morning we continued in the same +direction as the day before and at about a league we came upon a dry +creek bed full of sand but no water.[21] It could be a large river in +the season of the rains or the melting snow. It has no border of oaks +along its banks and few willows. + +From this creek we perceived at a short distance an oak forest lying in +the same direction, and after going about two leagues we entered it. +According to the way it appeared to us it was without end but actually +it reaches about four leagues in width. Its length we could not +determine, for it is very extensive. There are in this forest various +kinds of oak and live oak. The grass is very sparse because the soil is +very poor. After going into the woods about a league and a half we came +upon a river similar to the preceding ones in size and clearness of the +water, although its bed is narrower than the others.[22] The banks are +covered with an infinity of wild grapevines, a little torote, and an +abundance of ash trees. We pitched camp on this river, so as to use it +as a base for further exploration. The river we named Our Lady of +Guadalupe. + +_13th day and 3 [October]._ In the morning the expedition went to the +east along the margin of the river and, having traveled about six +leagues, we came upon a village called Taulamne.[23] This village is +situated on some steep cliffs, inaccessible because of their rough +rocks. The Indians live in caves; they climb and descend by a feeble +pole held by one of them while he who is descending slides down. It was +impossible for us to get them to come down to a little flat spot beside +the stream where we had assembled near a pool formed by the river. Tired +of promising them everything they wanted and seeing that they still +persisted in their negative attitude, we determined to ascend on foot to +where they were. We asked their permission to do so. This having been +obtained we began to climb but it was not possible for us to reach the +point where they were. As a result some twelve or fifteen of them +descended to a narrow shelf among the cliffs. There, even though they +were so distrustful as to carry weapons in their hands, they were +reassured of our good will and gave evidence of affability. We +distributed presents to them, and some pinole. Their excuse for +remaining obstinate and refusing to come down was that they were afraid +because the soldiers killed and captured people. It was explained to +them that the purpose of the expedition was to advance the Kingdom of +God and to make friends with them so that their souls might be saved. +They replied that they all wanted to become Christians and have a +mission established for them. In spite of this, it was not possible to +achieve a single baptism, although there were a great many old women to +whom baptism might be administered, because they would not come down +from their hiding places and it was too difficult for me to go up. + +They told us that there were six villages above them on the river but +they would not give us the names of either these villages or the chief +of their own village. Such was their fear or malice. They are poor and +very stupid. The village will contain about 200 souls, judging by the +number we repeatedly noticed among the rocks and along the paths which +run like balconies above the precipice. + +From here we returned to the camp. The only incident was that we ran +onto one heathen, who came along with us, and some others, who escaped +in the river without being detected by the soldiers, whom they +misled.[24] + +_14th day and 4 [October]._ On this day the expedition took a course +a little inclined toward the northwest and at about six leagues came +upon the bed of a big stream which, however, was dry. It was heavily +overgrown with ash trees and wild vines. It was named the San Francisco +because it was discovered on the day of that Saint. We kept on in the +same direction and after a matter of nine leagues from the Arroyo of +San Francisco we reached a river of great volume, already discovered +(according to reports) by an expedition which was searching for a route +by land to Bodega. We met on this river many very affectionate and +affable heathen. For lack of an interpreter no one was baptized, since +the language is totally different from the one we left behind us. +According to the few words they spoke which we could understand they +want a mission and want to become Christians. This river has excellent +land for agriculture and grazing and has a good oak forest. In the +mountains there is pine. The river is called La Pasion, a name given by +the first expedition to discover it. It has also much ash, willow, +torote, and wild vines. + +From this river the expedition turned back to the Guadalupe River, +mentioned on the 12th day of the expedition (Oct. 2), where the camp was +situated.[25] + +_15 day and 5 [October]._ In the afternoon of this day about forty armed +Indians suddenly appeared at the camp. They fired arrows into the air +and, while skirmishing around, three of them separated from the rest, as +ambassadors, carrying a flag which was a black ribbon of feathers with a +red stripe in the middle. The camp was aroused, and the soldiers, with +weapons in hand, prepared to receive them. The Indians, seeing that our +forces and weapons were superior to their own, spoke in a more moderate +tone than had been expected. In fact, they were subdued to the point of +asking merely if we had come to kill them, for this was the rumor which +they had received and which had caused in them all great fear. Assured +by everyone that this was not possible, on account of our good will, and +that our intentions were quite otherwise, one of them agreed to go and +give the information to all the rest of the Indians who were waiting +along the river. When he had brought the word to them, they came closer +to the opposite bank but it was impossible to make any of them come as +far as our position. Noting their obstinacy, we proposed that we come +over to where they were. They assented, but as soon as we started on the +path toward them they took flight and did not let themselves be seen +again. The two who were still with us were treated with the greatest +consideration and the following morning they were released. + +_16th day and 6 [October]._ This day camp was lifted from the Guadalupe +River and we traveled to the Dolores, mentioned on the 11th day. One +part of the expedition set out for the mountains. It discovered many +heathen Indians but no site for founding a mission offered itself, for +the lands are poor, there is little pasturage, and the river bottom is +narrow. + +_17th day and 7 [October]._ This day the party crossed from the River +Dolores to the Merced, mentioned on the 8th day. One section of the +troops, which traveled toward the mountains, came upon many heathen at +the river. It was not possible to determine the number because as soon +as they saw the troops they vanished like vapor and not one could be +caught because force could not be used. The remainder of the party, +which set out for the plains and low foothills, encountered at the bank +of the river about twenty children. Such was their preoccupation that +they did not notice us until we got very close to them. They began to +scream and throw themselves into the water to save themselves by flight +but with such fear and haste that many of them fell down. There were +some old women who acted likewise until the men came out with their +weapons to defend them. We took no notice of their terror, but rather +showed the greatest consideration, leaving them alone and continuing +along the opposite bank to pitch camp in a fine meadow. As soon as we +had dismounted seventy-nine warriors arrived in good order, attracted by +the unusual occurrence, to make us a visit. They brought us seeds and +fish. After making friends with us, they helped us with odd jobs and we +gave them food. Finally, presents having been distributed to them, they +returned to their village on the opposite side of the river. + +_18th day and 8 [October]._ On the morning of this day, carrying the +image of Holy Mary of Sorrows (who was our patron Saint) we started out +to pay a visit to the village, on account of the attention they had paid +us. We were received with great joy. They laid out their mats on the +ground for us to sit down upon. This matter attended to, we set forth +the reason for our coming. They replied in a very pleased manner that +they all sought baptism and the establishment of a mission. I baptized +six old women and one old man who were present. Most of the women had +fled at our arrival, but according to the number of men the village must +contain 200 souls. It is called Latelate. There is another village very +close to it with substantially the same number of people called Lachio. +This locality would be a good one in which to found a mission and a +presidio. Its wide meadows with fine land are perfect for raising crops, +grazing cattle, etc. + +_19th day and 9 [October]._ In the morning of this day the expedition +went to the east and, having gone eight leagues, reached a place covered +with small willows, in a dry stream bed but with a few pools. This spot +is situated at the foot of a hill the summit of which carries some small +bush oak trees. The place is inconvenient because of its restricted +pasturage. The whole trail today has been very rocky and for this reason +very troublesome. About a league before reaching this spot we found a +stream, also dry but with a large pool at the foot of a cliff. However, +there was no firewood. + +_20th day and 10 [October]._ The party followed the same course today +and at about two leagues encountered a line of oaks and willows which +contains the bed of a large stream. It may be very sizable in the rainy +season but at present has only a few pools and patches of grass. At +about five leagues in the same direction a river with two or three +channels was encountered, but with water only in pools on account of the +great expanse of sand. It has grass, willows, oaks, and ash. At this +place we spent the night. A scouting party went into the mountains but +found nothing worth noting. All the country traversed today has very +poor grass and is very stony. Many pebbles are found, which are very +brilliant and, from their beautiful appearance, are, or would seem to +be, rock crystal. The first arroyo discovered in the morning is called +Santo Domingo. That at which the camp is situated is [called] the +Tecolote [owl] because of the great abundance of these birds.[26] + +_21st day and 11 [October]._ This morning we kept on in the same +direction, toward the east, and, having traveled about four leagues, +we came upon an arroyo well populated with willow and some oak. It +was found to be dry but had one huge pool. We called it the Santa Ana. +It has low banks in that portion which trends toward the plain, or +valley. We continued on the same course and after another four leagues, +approximately, we reached the San Joaquin River, mentioned in the +account of the 4th day of the expedition. All the country we observed +between the Tecolote (mentioned yesterday) and the Santa Ana is worse +than bad. From the Santa Ana to the San Joaquin there is a little +pasturage, although it is sparse and spread out widely. Some other +stream beds are seen but none merit consideration: they might carry +some water in the winter. From the Santa Ana to the San Joaquin River +the land is flat and free from stones or pebbles. The neighboring +hills and the Sierra itself are covered with oaks.[27] + +_22nd day and 12 [October]._ Today the expedition rested because it was +Sunday and in order to give some rest to the horses which needed it +badly. + +_23rd day and 13 [October]._ In the morning of this day the party went +to scout and explore the San Joaquin River. One section of the group +went down the river and the other up the river toward the mountains. The +latter discovered an abundance of pine and redwood but farther in the +interior of the mountains, on the bank of the river they descried a +village called Pizcache[28] of about 200 souls, with a chief named +Sujoyucomu. From this chief the following information was obtained, the +testimony being from eyewitnesses. Other soldiers from the other side +of the mountains--who we presume were from New Mexico--appeared about +twenty years ago, according to the communication of the Indian. The +heathen Indians having acted in a hostile manner, the soldiers began to +fight and killed many of the Indians. The latter awaited with extreme +apprehension the return of the soldiers a second time, but they saw that +we did not come from the other side [of the mountains] but from this +side and were amazed at the kindness shown them when they expected +their annihilation. He [the chief] added that on the other side of the +mountains toward the north--according to the way he pointed--was the +sea, and that it took them ten days to go there. He said that toward the +south there was no sea but that the land continued as low hills. The +soldiers who had come previously did not differ at all from our own as +far as concerns horses and clothing. This Indian had been present at the +skirmish with the soldiers. He supported the fact that he had seen the +ocean with all kinds of signs, having been there himself. For this +reason, and also because the signs made by the Indian were very clear, +we concluded that New Mexico is very close to the other side of the +Sierra.[29] + +In this village two old men and two old women were made Christians. +In the middle of the mountain range is the source of a big river which +separates into two branches, one to the other side of the range, the +other being the San Joaquin. That portion of the expedition which went +down the river found nothing but bad lands, with little grass and saline +in places. It might be possible to found a mission on this river where +there are good level areas and an abundance of timber, but it lacks +firewood and grazing in this region. A cross was engraved on an oak +tree at the bank of the river near the camp. This is all that could +be discovered. + +_24th day and 14 [October]._ Today the camp on the San Joaquin River +was raised and we turned in the same direction as previously, toward the +east. After traveling five leagues we came to the Kings River [Rio de +los Santos Reyes][30] already discovered[31] in the preceding year of +1805. The country appeared to have moderately good pasturage, excellent +in the river bottoms. All the meadows are well covered with oak, alder, +cottonwood, and willow. The river abounds with beaver and fish. It is a +location suitable for a mission, although there would also have to be a +presidio. The land is fine for crops, etc. On this same day we came upon +a small village but in it we found only two old women and one sick +man. The rest of the people had gone to gather seeds. We did not stop, +because the cloudy sky threatened us with rain. And indeed as soon as we +had pitched camp and had thrown up a few small shelters the water poured +down with great fury. + +_25th day and 15 [October]._ Today the expedition could not go on +because of the heavy rain and so we all remained inactive, waiting +for clearing weather in order to continue with our explorations and +discoveries. + +_26th day and 16 [October]._ Today, the weather being better, and +leaving enough men to guard the camp, we divided the party into two +groups. One went up the river toward the mountains and the other +followed down the river. The first group discovered a village of about +60 souls under the leadership of a chief named Achagua. Nine persons +were made Christians, one old man and eight old women. All these people +want a mission and wish to be baptized. Furthermore the same story +was told as on the 23rd day about the coming of the soldiers and the +existence of the sea. This village is called Ayquiche. In addition, +word was obtained of six other villages situated on the bank of the +river toward the mountains.[32] + +The other group of the party, which went down the river, discovered +three villages which all together might contain 400 souls. All three are +close to each other in a wide, pleasant plain along the banks of the +river. In the first one visited eleven persons were made Christians, two +old men and the others old women. The chief is named Chaochay. In the +second village only one old woman was baptized for, although it was a +large village, as soon as they spied us in the first village, the people +all fled to the willow thickets. The chief of the second village is +called Chayalate. In the third village ten persons were baptized, all +old women. Here the chief is called Chatene. In the mountains there is +pine and redwood timber. The streams make it easy to get out. All the +Indian population has showed itself to be very docile and anxious to be +baptized and have a mission. + +_28th day and 18 [October]._ On this day a small group of soldiers was +sent in search of water and grass. Having traveled some three or four +leagues they found only a few pools in a great oak forest and even they +were inadequate. Here it was decided to spend the following day.[33] + +_29th day and 19 [October]._ This day the party moved toward the spot +discovered yesterday. Having penetrated the oak forest a short distance, +we halted at the pools previously discovered. The water was rather bad +but since the day was nearly gone we were obliged to make camp until the +following day. We went into a village which might contain 600 souls, +where 22 persons were baptized. The chief is called Gucayte. Several +other villages were encountered but all the people had disappeared at +our arrival. The number of baptisms includes those of the other party. + +_30th day and 20 [October]._ This day, seeing that the oak forest was +full of arroyos without water, we went in search of their origin. After +traveling a league we came upon a big village but all its people had +hidden in the nearby willow thickets. From here we continued eastwardly +and at about a league and a half we encountered another village, +named Cohochs, its chief called Chumueu. We were received with much +satisfaction by these poor people. All of them, after being instructed +concerning God and the welfare of their souls, want to be baptized and +have a mission. Following the direction of the mountains we came upon a +fine river, already discovered by the other expedition made at the end +of April in this same year. The great extent of sand which it has is +damaging in its effect, for only at the time of the melting of the snow +or in the rainy season does water fill copiously all the stream beds in +the oak forest. Nevertheless it would be easy to get water if a mission +were established. For this oak forest, which contains about 3,000 +souls[34] who want baptism and a mission, is the place most suitable +for a mission of all that we have explored. There are fine lands for +cultivation and great meadows in many parts of the oak forest which are +green all the time. There are also good spots of saltpeter and alkali. +The river is known as the San Gabriel. It divides into two branches, one +of which we called the San Miguel, and the latter sends its water into +several other branches. This mission, in case the King, our Lord, whom +God protect, grants its establishment, could have available pine and +redwood timber and fine lands for crops. After having explored all this +area, we returned to the camp. + +_31st day and 21 [October]._ Today a scouting party went to the east +and found a river already discovered by the expedition of the month of +April, already mentioned. It was called the San Pedro.[35] Because that +portion which was examined was found to be without water we were forced +to move the camp to the village of 600 souls mentioned above, called +Telame, where water was scarce but good pasturage was obtainable. Here +we pitched camp. + +_32nd day and 22 [October]._ Today, having explored all the points of +interest and villages of the oak forest the expedition remained at rest, +meanwhile waiting for supplies which were to come from Mission San +Miguel. + +_33rd day and 23 [October]._ On the morning of this day I, together with +the Commander, Don Gabriel Moraga, went to the aforementioned village of +Telame. We had the luck to find there a little girl, who was wasted away +and at the point of death. Her parents, as soon as I showed them the +benefit which would come to their daughter when she died, gave her to +me so that she might be baptized. And in fact I did baptize her, the +parents being very happy with her good fortune, and we being pleased +with having gained another soul. During the days which we spent at this +place all the Indians showed themselves very much satisfied with having +us in their midst, even to the extent of pointing out to us a spot +appropriate for the establishment or foundation of a mission. All the +people of the villages, even though on our arrival they had hidden +themselves, came to visit us, bringing their small possessions and +feeling insulted if they were not accepted. + +_34th day and 24 [October]._ Today there is nothing in particular to +note, other than that we received the provisions early in the evening. + +_35th day and 25 [October]._ In the morning of this day the provisions +were distributed to the troops and in the afternoon we set out. We +traveled to the east, being guided by two heathen Indians, and at about +two leagues we turned to the west. In another two leagues we came upon +a very copious spring. This water is reached by taking a big stream bed, +which is encountered to the east of the village, and following it to the +west for about four leagues. At this point the water is discovered in +the arroyo itself. We suppose that the water is the River San Gabriel, +which has percolated through the immense stretches of sand along it. +This place has much grass but the land is alkaline in most parts. + +_36th day and 26 [October]._ In the afternoon of this day the camp was +raised and we crossed over to where an oak park runs along the course +of the San Pedro River, discovered by the expedition of last April, in +1806. We traveled about eight leagues, four of them in front of the oak +forest and the other four into the forest toward the east. For we found +the river to be without water on account of the extremely thick growth +of willow, cottonwood, torote, and ash, together with the great quantity +of sand. Following the river bed toward the mountains one encounters +water quite sufficient for the foundation of a mission. This is a river +with fine water, excellent lands for crops, pasturage, etc. There is +much timber in the mountains, pine and redwood.[36] + +_37th day and 27 [October]._ In the morning of this day, continuing +upstream for a league, we came upon a small village which was part +of another large one called Coyehete. The latter according to the +information given by the Indians will have 400 people. There was no one +in this village who could be baptized, because, although they wanted +baptism and begged for a mission, they were all young people. From this +village we took an easterly course and at about a league from the river +we came upon an arroyo which we called San Cayetano, discovered at the +same time as the river described previously.[37] It was found to be dry, +but has many large pools capable of supporting a great number of cattle. +This stream is bordered by an abundance of trees, willows and some oaks, +but the land is poor. + +Continuing in the same easterly direction we reached after four leagues +of travel another stream, large in the rainy season, but at present +dry.[38] It has a few willow trees. From this stream we followed a +ravine without leaving it for most of the day, for it is very long, +and at sunset reached a big creek bed with considerable willow and an +immense area of sand.[39] It now being very late, we made every effort +to find water but were unable to do so. For this reason we began to dig +and, having gone down about two yards, we finally found enough for the +troops, although it was bad. The horses, which were quite thirsty, had +not drunk since morning and were forced to abstain until we should +arrive at a river of great volume that had been found earlier this year +by an expedition from the presidio of Santa Barbara. This we were going +to search for. We spent the night in this valley with no other matter +worth noting than that it was very cold. + +_38th day and 28 [October]._ Very early in the morning the party +set forth and having gone about three leagues encountered the +river discovered by the expedition from Santa Barbara and mentioned +yesterday.[40] It is very full of water, even in the dry season. All +the country which we have seen today is the most miserable noted in the +entire expedition. Some brush and a large quantity of ground-squirrel +holes is all the land contains. There is no green grass and even at the +river all we found was willow thickets and saline and alkali flats. +Going down the river in search of pasturage we discovered the traces of +horses from the Santa Barbara expedition. After traveling a very long +way we were obliged to stop, although there was great scarcity of +pasturage in the enormous willow thickets along the river. This is +the tree which most abounds, together with considerable cottonwood. + +_39th day and 29 [October]._ Today, while searching for pasturage, we +moved the camp about three leagues farther downstream and one league +distant from the river. Here, although there was much saltpeter and +underbrush, the country was well covered with grass. One group scouted +to the end of the plain at the edge of the mountains and found nothing +but salt and alkali and very poor land. + +_40th day and 30 [October]._ Today everyone stayed quietly in camp in +order to give some rest to the horses which were badly exhausted. + +_41st day and 31 [October]._ Today we traveled south to find a sheltered +spot in the mountains and to reach the line of exit to be taken by the +expedition. On the way we found a village, about three leagues from the +encampment. At this point we separated the most badly worn-out horses so +that they might go by another road to a place where they could sooner +recuperate. Nothing is said about this or the other village which we +saw on the river because it is to be supposed that the Santa Barbara +expedition will give a complete account of them. Just before sunset we +came to the sheltered place mentioned above. We found it to have an +abundance of running water in a little creek and many wild grapevines, +these being almost the entire vegetation. Here we spent the night +although there was a lack of grass for the horses.[41] + +_42nd day and 1 [November]._ Today we set out from this oasis and after +about two leagues we found the source of the stream. It is a marsh well +covered with grass. The open area may be entered by a valley filled with +oak trees. At the end of it one sees a lake which, however, is pure salt +water. To the east is located a moderate-sized village, the Indians of +which seemed to us altogether too cunning and crafty in trading. Guided +by three Indians from this village we came to another of the same size +but hidden among ravines and badlands. The number of inhabitants could +not be determined because they were absent at a fiesta in another +village near by. From here we set out in an easterly direction and late +in the afternoon, at sunset, we reached a plain extending toward a +valley which contained a small stream. The latter carried a little +water, which was quite salty due to the great salinity of the land. + +_43rd day and last of the expedition._ On this day, by following the +valley, we reached the ranch of the Reverend Fathers of Mission San +Fernando. The roughness of the mountains we went through this day is +indescribable, but it pleased God that in the early evening we should +see a light and by going toward it came upon the ranch. From here the +following day we came to the mission.[42] + +All that has been stated in this report represents exactly what I have +seen myself. Together with a few others baptized on the expedition made +at the end of April of this year 1806 we baptized on this expedition 141 +persons. These were all baptized _in extremis_. + +In witness hereof I signed on 2 November 1806. + + Fray Pedro Munoz + + + _Villages_ + +Number of villages scouted on this expedition and Christians made, +together with those made on the expedition carried out in the last part +of April of this year, 1806. The number of persons is given. + + Nupchenche This village has about 250 souls. Twenty-eight + Christians were made, 5 old men and 23 old + women. 28 + + Chineguis Has the same number of people as the previous + one. A single old woman was baptized. 1 + + Yunate According to a good calculation this village + has the same number of persons as those + preceding. One old man was baptized. 1 + + Chamuasi Has the same number of persons as those + mentioned above. No one was baptized because + everyone hid himself at our arrival. + + Latelate This village will have about 200 people. I + baptized six old women. 6 + + Lachuo Is of the same size as the previous village. + The same thing happened as at the village of + Chamuasi, for which reason there was no one to + whom Holy Baptism might be administered. + + Pizcache This village may contain about 200 people. Four + were baptized, two old men and two old women. 4 + + Aycayche This village will have about 60 souls. Nine + were made Christians, one old man and 8 old + women. 9 + + Here there are six other villages which could + not be investigated. All of them, according to + the reports of the inhabitants of this village + are of about the same size as Pizcache. + + Ecsaa This village has about 100 souls. Fourteen were + baptized, 2 men and 12 women, all old, and one + of the women _in articulo mortis_. 14 + + Chiaja Has the same number as the previous village. + One old woman baptized. 1 + + Xayuase Will have 100 souls, like the preceding. Nine + old women were baptized. 9 + + Capatau This is a very small village and subject to the + chief of the previous village. It will have 9 + or 10 people. One old woman was baptized. 1 + + Hualo, Vual This village will have about 400 souls. Two old + women were baptized. Discovered on the first + expedition. 2 + + Tuntache This village will have 250 souls. One sick old + man was baptized. 1 + + Notonto 1st Eight old women and two dying children were + baptized in this village on the first + expedition. The two children were later found + to have died. This village will have about 300 + souls. 10 + + Notonto 2nd Will have 100 souls. Two old women were + baptized. 2 + + Telame first This is the largest of all the villages which + have been discovered. It will have, according + to a fast count, 600 souls. It was entered by + the first expedition and 11 old women and 1 + sick man were baptized. He was found by this + expedition to have died. On this expedition, + the second one, 8 old women were baptized, + together with 1 old man and 1 moribund infant. + In all there are twenty-two. 22 + + Telame second It will have 200 souls. (This village was not + seen by the other expedition.) I baptized 6 old + women. 6 + + Uholasi This village will have 100 souls. It was + discovered on the first expedition. I baptized + 3 old women. [3] + + Eaguea This village has about 300 souls and was + discovered on the first expedition. Ten were + baptized, 9 old women and 1 dying man. We found + on this expedition that he had died. 10 + + Cohochs Will have 100 souls. Eleven old women were + baptized. 11 + + Choynoque This is a village of 300 souls. No one was + baptized for their terror caused them to flee. + However, the warriors who were visible gave us + reason to estimate their total number as 300 + souls. + + Cutucho This village is close to that called + Nupchenche. It will have 400 souls. It was + scouted by the first expedition. No one was + baptized for everyone had fled. + + Tahualamne This village will have 200 souls. No one was + baptized because their fear did not permit + them to come down from their rocky village as + is described on the 13th day of this account. + + The total baptisms performed on the two expeditions amount to 141 + + Coyehete This is a village of about 400 souls according + to the report of the Indians. We did not see + it. In addition there are a great many villages + which I do not mention because I did not + examine them. + + Fray Pedro Munoz + + +REMINISCENCES OF MEXICAN PIONEERS + +The two following selections are taken from reminiscences of old Mexican +pioneers, obtained by Alexander S. Taylor in the early 1860's. The first +was published in an unidentified newspaper; the second is handwritten. +Both purport to relate experiences of expeditions carried out in 1806 +or 1807 (except the Ortega sortie of 1815 described by Olivera). The +Olivera account follows the report of Moraga's 1806 expedition in a +general way but departs from the diary of Munoz in many details. It is +likely that the narrator was confusing this with other campaigns in +which he was engaged. At any event little reliance should be placed upon +his statements. + +Both accounts give a lively picture of conditions in the valley at this +period, and for such unofficial detail they are of some value. + + +_Diego Olivera's Account of Moraga's 1806 Expedition_ + +This account is given in a clipping from an unspecified newspaper, +presumably of 1864. The piece has no title. It is included in Alexander +S. Taylor's collection, Discoverers, Founders and Pioneers of California +(2:153). + + My father, said he [i.e., Olivera],... was one of a company of sixty + mounted men under the Alferez Gabriel Moraga, accompanied by the + Padre Munoz for chaplain, who left Monterey in August, 1806 ... and + crossed over into the Tulares by the way of San Juan Bautista.... We + traversed the whole of the country from where the San Joaquin comes + out of the Sierra Nevada to a long way up north along the Sacramento + River and found multitudes of Indians everywhere along the + streams.[43] We passed fifteen days at one camp on the Sacramento, + whence we made trips up into the snowy mountains.... We were obliged + to encounter great dangers in this trip and did not get back till + November after being out over a hundred days,[44] for, from the + melting of the snows and the overflowing of the rivers and not + knowing our whereabouts, we had to keep well on the lower hills and + creep along by the eastern trail the best way we could until we + found ourselves near the King's River and the Big Lakes,[45] and + picked our way among great numbers of Indian rancherias, until we + came to the passes called the Tejon and Las Ulvas, and so made our + exit at the Mission of San Fernando.... + + There was also another expedition from Santa Barbara in the fall of + 1815, which went over into the Tulares, where they met another party + from Monterey who had come through the Estrella from San Miguel. + That was commanded by Captain Juan Ortega, when Don Pablo Vicente + de Sola was Governor. I was also along with it, but we did nothing + particular, excepting to bring in a great many Indians for the + reverend Padres to make Christians of. The _pobre infelices_ lived + like so many brutes in dirt and filth, and were always fighting + each other like so many wild cats and dogs, _muy mestanjes_. The + girls among them used to run after the soldiers--_pobrecitas_--and + the people gave us the orphan children, and in this way many of + their souls were saved who would otherwise have been lost with the + _diablos_. + + +_Felipe Santiago Garcia's Account of Moraga's 1807 Expedition_ + +Pertinent passages have been selected from a manuscript entitled "Story +of an Old Dragoon of Monterey," in Alexander Taylor's Discoverers, +Founders and Pioneers of California (2:141-151). + + In the year 1807 I went to the Buena Vista Lake[46] as we called + it, as a soldier in a company of Cavalry of twenty-five men under + Alferez Gabriel Moraga. Each of us had eight horses and they made a + big _caballada_. Miguel Espinosa was our serjeant and we had to keep + constant watch that the Indians did not steal our horses; they were + everywhere.... We went from Monterey to San Miguel Mission, and + from there to the Laguna we called Buena Vista in one day and a + half, and we went after the runaway _neophytas_ [and] tried to bring + in others for the Padres to make Christians; but did not get any. We + went away into the Snowy Mountains, or near where the snow was, and + the Indians stole one-half of our horses and killed two of our + men. Where we went into the mountains there was a _Portosuello_ + [_portezuelo_, an opening or gap], called by our Captain "_Salinas + de Cortez_" which had great quantities of _nitre_, _quisas + tequesquite_.[47] We crossed the San Joaquin River several times and + everywhere there was Indians, and the Captain made up his mind to go + back by the way of San Jose Mission where we arrived in good order. + + I went several times to the Tulares and to the Sacramento, both on + horseback and once in boats. In all the rivers we saw many beavers; + bears were everywhere and very dangerous. Elk and antelope and deer + used to run before us in _bandados_ [bands] and we found plenty of + mustangs, wild horses,[48] in 1807 and afterwards many others with + the mission brands, and lots and lots of the mission cattle, _muy + cimarones_. + + + + +IV. JOSE PALOMARES' EXPEDITION TO THE TULARES, 1808 + + +In 1808 there are two accounts of significance, Moraga's trip to the +Sacramento Valley (Cutter, 1957) and Jose Palomares' expedition through +the southern tip of the San Joaquin Valley, probably in the same year. + + + _Report on the Expedition to the Tulares_ + (Cal. Arch., Prov. St. Pap., Mis. and Col., I: 229-239) + + On the 25th [of October][1] I left the Presidio with six men, and, + taking another one from San Buenaventura, I went as far as Simi,[2] + where we spent the night. On the following day I went with one + soldier toward San Fernando, leaving the other six at Simi awaiting + further orders. Having arrived at this mission I talked to the + Reverend Fathers and asked them where the fiesta was. They answered + that they did not know and inquired of some Indians who told them + that the fiesta was at a village called Quariniga and that the + dancing had already begun. This being the situation I spent the 26th + and 27th provisioning and on the latter day sent a soldier to Simi + to tell the others to start out in the afternoon and arrive at the + mission in the evening. This they did. At about nine o'clock at + night, taking with me four men from this garrison, I set out with + considerable secrecy for the rancho through which I passed at about + one o'clock in the morning of the 28th. We went as far as a canyon, + at a distance of about five leagues from the said rancho, arriving + at dawn, or about eight o'clock. We had with us a list of the + names of the Indian men and women fugitive from this mission [San + Fernando] and also two interpreters, one Spanish, the other familiar + with the language of all the Valley Indians. He also was well + acquainted with the country. While we were at this place some + Christian Indians arrived, who were on furlough and who had + originated in this village. They told me that the people were + beginning to arrive and that the dance was going to start on the + night of the 29th. For this reason it seemed to me desirable to + remain there till the 30th. The place was well arranged and + isolated, with water and forage for the horses. + + At about ten o'clock on the morning of the 30th I set forth through + a very long canyon, and during the day and the following night I + arrived within a league of the village. This was at about twelve + o'clock midnight. At dawn of the 31st I started out and at daybreak + I approached the village with ten men, having left two with the + horses near by. Having got near the village I called to the + chieftains and asked them for the Christians. They told me there + was no more than one. The others, according to what they said, were + ten in number, five men and five women, and were with Quipagui. + Still others were at a village which they called Muscupian and one + called Mavialla, both far to the east.[3] + + Thus, finding myself in this place without having accomplished + anything, I was told by a heathen Indian who knew the village of + Quipagui that five heathen were there whom I was seeking. On the way + there I encountered an Indian, named Macal, who was among those who + had killed the soldiers,[4] and whom it had not been possible to + catch. I captured him, and with him the rest of the wild Indians. + Thereafter I took him with me and retired from the village about + two leagues where I remained until two o'clock in the afternoon. + Then I set out, taking the valley of San Gabriel in a northerly + direction.[5] I crossed this valley and crossed the mountains and + at about three o'clock in the morning I came to the Tulare Valley. + Going along the slope of the mountains, I traveled as far as a + protected spot, which was called by the expedition San Jose, + arriving there at dawn. At about three o'clock in the afternoon I + started out again, going along the edge of the mountains, and at + about twelve o'clock midnight I reached a distance of two leagues + from the village mentioned above. At about three o'clock the next + morning, the 2nd of November, I set forth with my whole party, and, + careful to reach the village just as day was breaking, I found it + solitary. From dawn to eleven o'clock in the morning we were rained + on hard. Leaving all the rest of my party together, I went off with + three soldiers from this region, which was rather rocky, scouting + for the Indians, who had concealed all their tracks. I saw an + Indian--Christian or heathen--and noting this I retreated to within + three hundred paces of the rest of the troops. Inasmuch as the + heathen, who were near by on a hill, could have seen no more than + four men they would have thought we were no greater than this in + number. So the afore-mentioned Quipagui with six warriors allowed + himself to approach. As soon as we saw them, I called out in a loud + voice and the other six men joined us. We went out to encounter them + [the Indians] on a small hill. Seeing us and those who were guarding + the prisoners, the chief cried out to the other Indians and they + all simultaneously discharged their arrows and rushed to where the + soldiers held the prisoners.[6] We went and joined the latter, + and after everyone had arrived I accused him[7] of concealing + Christians. To this he replied that on the previous day when the + news arrived [of our coming] he was not at the village but was + hunting deer. In the afternoon when he returned he found only one + Indian. The latter exclaimed that they should leave because the + soldiers were coming against him. According to what the native + Indians told him, the Christians had fled, some to the eastern + mountains, others, with the one who had brought the news, down to + the tule swamps. I pressed him to go with me to search for them but + he replied that under the circumstances he could not because it + was raining. If he could wait till it stopped raining, he would + go to search. I could not remain, first, because I did not have + provisions, and second, because there was no water for the horses. + [I told him that] if he would gather them [the Christians] and take + them to the Mission of San Fernando, the Reverend Fathers would pay + him. I left him a rope with which to tie them up. This he promised + to do at the end of the moon just past. All this he did not perform. + + This Indian should be removed from that place with all his + village for many reasons. The first is because he has killed many + unconverted Indians and is still killing them. He is the most feared + Indian in that entire country. The other reason is that he gives + refuge to Christian fugitives, and they know that neither Christian + nor heathen will go to look for them there on account of the terror + which he inspires. I would have brought him back with his people but + the weather did not permit me to do so without running the risk of + injury in capturing and securing them. + + The same day at two o'clock I started to retire, and left the Tulare + Valley by a road never before discovered by an expedition. It is + the best way to get out of the valley, with good land, water, and + pasturage.[8] We stopped at two o'clock in the morning of the 3rd in + the midst of this country and camped for the rest of the night. On + the 3rd we set out and arrived at the mouth of the canyon at sunset. + There was some water, left by the rain of the preceding night. + The soldier Miguel Lugo, second in command, allowed the heathen + prisoner, called Macal, whom he had with him, to escape. I think + that if the Christian who was with him, had not cried out, the + sentinel would not have known when he left. At the outcry he [the + sentinel] chased him but could not catch him. We all went out + through the brush surrounding this place but not having found him, + we kept on retreating during the 4th and arrived at San Fernando in + the evening.[9] + + + + +V. EXPLORATION OF THE SACRAMENTO-SAN JOAQUIN DELTA, 1810-1813 + + +These four years are notable primarily for the exploration of the +Sacramento-San Joaquin delta, which previously had undergone no very +intensive examination. We have accounts of the two trips by Father Fray +Jose Viader in 1810 and that by Father Fray Ramon Abella in 1811. To +these may be added the account of the rather disastrous punitive +expedition by Sergeant Francisco Soto in 1813. + + +FATHER VIADER'S FIRST TRIP + +_Viva Jesus._ + +Report or account of the trip which has just been made by order of the +Governor and Father President with the purpose of searching for places +or sites where missions might be established, from 15 to 28 August, +1810. + +_15 August 1810._ At five-thirty o'clock in the afternoon of this day +I departed from Mission San Jose with Second Lieutenant Gabriel Moraga, +Cadet Raymundo Estrada, one corporal, three soldiers, and four neophytes +of Mission Santa Clara. Having traveled about six leagues to the north +we stopped alongside a pool of good water located in the western portion +of the valley called San Jose. We did not stop to explore the place +because it is so near and so well known to everyone. With no other +special incident the next day dawned. + +_16 August._ This day, following the same direction, northward, we went +about six leagues before noon, and having killed two bears and one very +big deer, we stopped for lunch at the source of a stream called Walnut +Creek. This stream, although it has good water runs in very small +amount. In the afternoon, having gone another six leagues in the same +direction, having killed a deer and an antelope, and having seen good +lands and groves of trees, all without water, we arrived by nightfall at +the end of Walnut Creek and the beginning of some estuaries. These are +on the northeast side of a fine plain which is well covered with trees +(among others big walnuts).[1] + +_17th day [of August]._ This day we spent, without moving our camp, in +exploring the plain and surrounding hills. These lands belong to the +Tarquines, most, or all, of whom are Christians at San Francisco. We saw +the mouth of the rivers, of which there are two, one from the north, the +other from the east. When they join, they enter one of the bays which +border San Francisco. In all this region so well known for its good air, +its fine land, its copious firewood, its walnut trees, the only water we +found was two pools, one spoiled, the other good, although the water was +stagnant. There is a little spring next to a willow thicket close to an +inlet, where, it is said, was situated the village of the Tauquines. +Because the area of Walnut Creek has very little water, it does not seem +to me suitable for founding a mission. Throughout the day we killed +three bears and eleven deer. With no other incident the night passed. + +_18th day [of August]._ We left this place early and, going east, +crossed the Mother Range. At seven leagues we came to the San Joaquin +River, or, as it is called the River of the Tulares.[2] It is about a +quarter of a league wide, and apparently very deep. It is reached by the +tides of the sea. Here we stopped for lunch between the river and a very +large oak forest. It is said that this land belongs to the Tulpunes, +whom we did not see. There were no indications of heathen Indians. This +place would be good for a mission if there were water, or if water could +be taken from the river, for there is good land and much wood from oaks +and live oaks. Today in the afternoon we went two more leagues to the +east, through the oak forest and over good country. However, there is +no water except what is in the above-mentioned river. This place also +belongs to the Tulpunes, who did not allow themselves to be seen. + +_19th day [of August]._ We set out at dawn in a southeasterly direction +and after having gone about ten leagues over bad ground and along the +edge of the tule swamps we arrived at a lake in the middle of an oak +grove where we could neither get to the river nor turn back. Here, in +the village of the Cholvones, or Pescadero, we stayed all the rest of +the day, and the night. We sent an interpreter to get in touch with the +Cholvones. He returned with a heathen Indian called Guanats, together +with a considerable quantity of fish. They say that the Christian +fugitives from San Jose are on the opposite shore, between the river +and a lake. All this country is good and has firewood, but the floods +from the rivers submerge it from the beginning of the warm season until +August.[3] + +_20th day [of August]._ We started out and traveled south-southeast some +distance from the river on account of the swamps. We passed opposite a +village of heathen called Aupemis and, without stopping, came to another +village, whose chief is called Tomchom, having traveled since morning +about three leagues. Here we rested, and no wild Indian showed himself. +In the afternoon, and after two and one-half leagues in the same +direction we arrived at a village, whose chief is called Cuyens. The +latter is well known to, and friendly with, the interpreter, who had +gone ahead to call him. We met them, together with fifteen other Indians +carrying a great deal of fish to give us. Here we stopped to make camp +for the night. Four of the Indians wanted to remain with us while the +others went away, saying they would return with more fish for tomorrow. +This they did and were accompanied by even more natives. Nothing we have +seen today is suitable for a mission, because the land is flooded, in +places for more than a league.[4] + +_21st day [of August]._ We set out and the Indians followed us as far as +another village whose chief is called Maijem.[5] This was at a distance +of two and a half or three leagues in the same direction. Just before +arriving there we came upon a dry stream bed, but with indications that +in the rainy season it carries much water. Furthermore the land, or +ground, is higher than anything we have seen thus far. The Indians of +this village came [to us], although with great trepidation. After +we had given them cigarettes and a few other presents they all +disappeared--even those from Cuijens. In the afternoon after two more +leagues in the same direction we halted opposite a village whose chief +is called Bozenats.[6] These Indians, who let themselves be seen on the +other side of the river, refused to come near us, however much we called +to them. On the other hand they yelled at us with much vigor, also +saying that they had no fugitive Christians and finally that they would +come over the next day. If the region traversed today had water, or +water could be obtained from the San Joaquin River, it would not be bad +for the establishment of a mission, for there is good land and no lack +of firewood. + +_22nd day [of August]._ The Indians who had said they would come did +not come and we went on in the same south-southeasterly direction. After +we had gone about two leagues about thirty armed heathen appeared on the +opposite bank of the river. Asked by our interpreter, they refused to +come across. Furthermore, they said in a very threatening manner that +we had better get out quickly and appeared anxious to fight. Here, +according to their statements, are the fugitive Christians from Santa +Clara and Santa Cruz. These natives are called the Apaglamenes. + +Seeing that they refused to cross over, we pursued the same direction +and after a league stopped at a village named Tationes.[7] Here also +they say there are Christian fugitives. A little while after we arrived +for a rest period the heathen Apaglamenes, to whom I referred above, +made an appearance, accompanied by the Tationes, all armed, painted, and +bedecked with feathers. Some were on the other side of the river and +six on our side, a gunshot away. These six were already shooting at the +interpreter, who had gone to speak to them and pacify them. Also they +fired on Corporal Berreyessa, who went to call back the interpreter. The +Lieutenant, seeing this and noting that those on the other side of the +river were talking with a great deal of insolence, ordered that they be +told to be quiet and to go away. Otherwise they would be fired upon. The +Indians having replied with still more insults, we fired in the air in +order to make our intentions clear. Thereupon they began to fire at us +and the soldiers at them. The fight did not last long, for the soldiers +fired no more than twelve shots. According to a later count one Indian +was hit, and perhaps more, for the shots went into a little thicket. The +soldier Morales came into the skirmish with half his chin shaved and +the other half covered with lather. On our part there were no other +casualties. The territory covered today is also rather high in some +places and has no lack of firewood but has no water. + +In the afternoon we continued in the same direction. At the point of +departure a few Indians were visible at a distance. After traveling +three leagues we stopped near some lakes, apart from the river but near +a willow grove.[8] The area we covered in the afternoon has neither +firewood nor good land. + +_23rd day [of August]._ Today, after three and one-half leagues in the +same direction and without being able to get near the river on account +of the sloughs, flooded land, and swamps, we had to rest on an open +plain without shade near a creek, or arm of the river.[9] The great heat +forced us to jump in for a swim. The water of the creek was lukewarm. +After we had rested, we started out in the same direction more or less, +and after four leagues, already at nightfall, without hope of meeting or +reaching the river, we stopped beside a pond.[10] There was no wood or +brush to cook supper or even make chocolate. Everything we crossed +today is low ground, tule swamps, and ponds and for this reason is +not suitable for a mission. + +_24th day [of August]._ Very early, before breakfast, thinking that +we were opposite Soledad [Mission] and that the tule swamps and low, +flooded territory continued as far as the vicinity of San Miguel, we +decided to turn back. Taking now a westerly direction, after going four +leagues we had chocolate in a patch of brush and then going on in the +same direction for another six leagues we arrived at the place called +San Luis Gonzaga. Here we halted for the afternoon and also the +following morning, with the purpose of exploring this area, which +at first sight appears to be a good one. + +_25th day [of August]._ As a matter of fact, this place was examined +and explored and no more water was found than a few pools and one short +creek, all of which together would not be adequate for a mission. The +pools are deep but the creek flows very little, although there are +indications that in the rainy season it fills up considerably. Moreover, +the wood supply is quite far removed and above all there are no heathen +Indians in the whole region as far as the rivers. + +_26th day [of August]._ We left this place in the morning and took a +southwesterly course. After crossing a little plain for about a league +we began to climb the mountains, which carried us some six leagues, +including the plain just mentioned. We stopped at the foot of the range +along a creek which had no more water than a few scattered pools. In +just one of these we caught forty fish including six trout or little +salmon. After the siesta we kept on in the same direction for three +leagues and arrived at the stream called Ausaymas. This is already +the plain of San Juan Bautista, and is suitable for at least a rancho +because it has water, wood, and good land. + +_27th day [of August]._ From here we set forth and, crossing the plain +in the same southwesterly direction for five leagues, we arrived at +Mission San Juan Bautista without difficulty, thank God, at about nine +o'clock of the same day. Here with a good breakfast we brought the +expedition to an end. + + San Juan Bautista, Fr. Jose Viader + August 28, 1810 + + +FATHER VIADER'S SECOND TRIP + + _Report of Father Jose Viader_ + From 19 to 27 October, 1810 + Mission San Jose, October 19, 1810 + +_Viva Jesus._ + +My esteemed Father President, I inform you that at about two o'clock +this afternoon I left this mission in the company of Lieutenant Gabriel +Moraga, 23 other soldiers, and about 50 armed Christian Indians. After +going some six leagues to the northeast we halted to pass the night in +the valley of San Jose near a willow grove which contains good water. + +_20th day._ From the valley to Pescadero, or Cholvones, we traveled +about nine leagues to the east-northeast[11] and arrived very late so as +not to be seen or heard. Soon we placed our people in position to attack +a dance [being carried on] by heathen Indians and fugitive Christians. + +_21st day._ Before dawn we assaulted a village on this side of the river +and only one person escaped, a San Jose Christian named Bernardo. He, +having gone to sleep at a distance from the village, jumped into the +water and swam in great haste to warn those at the dance. For this +reason we immediately fell upon the other village, which was on the +opposite side of the river, and took it entire. The prisoners in all +included 15 San Jose Christians, 18 heathen men, and 51 heathen women. +The latter were released by the lieutenant and went away very happy.[12] + +The remainder of the day we rested here and passed the time well with +fresh salmon and wild grapes. Two of the Christian prisoners escaped, on +the pretext of having to attend to a necessity, and also because of the +negligence or overconfidence of the sentinel. All this place and its +surroundings are inundated during the high water of the rivers, which +is in the summer. At that time the wild Indians live on a few small +elevations.[13] For this reason there is no way to establish a mission +here. + +_22nd day._ This morning Corporal Pico, with seven soldiers and the +neophytes, went with the Christian and heathen prisoners toward San +Jose. The rest of us, with a heathen Indian called Guanats, went up +the river, southeasterly through oak groves, willow thickets, ponds, +and lands flooded during the freshets. We also met four wild Indians +gathering seeds, who were extremely glad to meet honest people. After +having gone about two and one-half leagues we stopped to eat between two +ponds, in front of the [village of] the Jusmites[14] Indians. In the +afternoon, having gone another two and one-half leagues we spent the +night near the [village of] the Tugites Indians. All the country seen +thus far has wood, with water in the river and lakes, but the land is +low, flooded, and without stone. + +_23rd day._ In the morning we resumed our march in the same direction, +always upstream with the intention of crossing it. On the way, Indians +whom we knew and who were friendly, from the village of Cuyens, came out +to meet us, bearing as a gift three very big, red, salmon. They also +have accompanied us to the village of Mayem, where we halted to eat, +having gone four leagues since early morning. Having rewarded well our +Indian benefactors and companions, we also gave something to those of +Mayem. The latter people have just approached us with much fear and with +a tendency to prevaricate. Although they know that they have in their +village Christians from Santa Clara, they deny it and furthermore +declare that they will never again admit any [Christian fugitives]. If +it were not for the nuisance it would cause us, the Lieutenant says he +would flog them, but on the return trip he will do so if things go as +they have this time. In the afternoon, after having dismissed all the +wild Indians, we set forth in the same direction, and traveled two +leagues. At this point, opposite the village called or designated +Taualames, we found a ford across the river. However it was very bad, +being wide and deep and with poor approaches. We crossed it without +untoward incident, thanks be to God, and soon halted for the night. I +sent a boy to the village to carry a statement to the natives here of +our purpose to call for Christian fugitives and offer them pardon. Six +heathen Indians returned who, filled with apprehension, said that all +the Christians had gone to the mission and would not be allowed to come +back, but they were lying. Finally they said they would take us to their +village and would come back in the morning to do this. So we sent them +away. In all we have covered today we have not found any place suitable +for establishing a mission. + +_24th day._ We got up early and without moving camp I went out with the +Lieutenant and four soldiers to the north, with the intention of getting +to the Rio de Dolores [Tuolumne River] two or three leagues away. +However on account of so many sloughs, swamps, and ponds we turned back. +We could see only some high ground, not reached by the floods, which are +as bad as, or worse than, those on this side, or the west side. We also +went into the village and found only a dog and a tame deer. The boy went +into the brush [to get the people] but they did not want to come out, +so we went to eat lunch. In the afternoon we went ahead in the same +south-southeasterly direction up the river. We passed in front of +the Apelamenes and Tatives Indians, who had fought us on the former +occasion, but did not enter the villages for we anticipated that we +would find the houses empty and because of the extensive swamp and lake. +After having gone six leagues and having noted that the high ground not +covered by the river is very poor, is a long distance from the river +and from a wood supply, and is useful for nothing, we arrived at +another river, the Merced, which comes from the east and joins the San +Joaquin.[15] We crossed it, almost swimming the horses. Here is much +wood on both banks of the river: oak, live oak, cottonwood, cypress, +willow, etc. Nevertheless it was clear that the spring floods cover a +great deal of these lands and that only the latter seem to be of value. + +_25th day._ In the morning we left here going southwest with the +intention of crossing the San Joaquin River, which was still to the +west of where we slept. Shortly after our departure we came upon an old +village on a height whose lands have a little grass but no rock, and +moreover this place is between two large rivers. We reached the San +Joaquin after one long league and crossed it. Thereafter we crossed +several other swampy sloughs. From here southward there are no more +trees, only tules and more tules. + +The Merced River, it seems to me, cannot be dammed, not only because the +soil is pure sand, but because it is now confined between very close +banks. I can say the same of the other stream, the San Joaquin, and +furthermore the bottom is so level that the current is very slow, even +though the water is deep. + +From here we turned back down the San Joaquin River and in two and +one-half leagues we reached the scene of the battle, or shaving place, +for at this point now, as previously, the soldiers shave themselves. +Only one wild Indian was seen in the distance when we arrived. We left +here a sick horse. This place is a little elevated, but only the flooded +areas have grass and are without rocks in the entire three leagues +to the western hills. In the afternoon we went forward in the same +direction, downstream, and after a league we got to the arroyo of +Orestimac [Orestimba Cr.], opposite the Apalamenes, the allies of the +Tatives when the latter fought us. This creek, which comes from the +hills, is not flowing nor does it contain water, but it is known that in +the rainy season it fills up and even overflows. This spot is the least +bad on this whole side of the river but even so it would not be suitable +for a mission. It has only firewood, river water, and much good fish. + +We kept on and in two more leagues we came to a point opposite the +Taualames Indians. When called by the boy, their kinsman, they refused +to come out, saying that they were afraid. They guessed right for they +would have been taken captive. From this point, considering that the +people of Mayem would also refuse to come out, and that it was not yet +late, we turned west and after crossing three leagues of plain reached +the arroyo of Corpus Christi, where we spent the night[16] without water +for the horses. We had to dig a well in the sand. + +_26th day._ We started early toward the west and after six leagues of +mountains and bad trails we reached a place formerly called El Toro, +where we ate lunch, and we, with the horses, drank. In the afternoon, +going in the same direction more or less for another six leagues of +extremely bad trail, we arrived at dark at a little flat with some +pools of good water. This place we called San Guillermo. + +_27th day._ From San Guillermo we went six leagues in the same direction +to stop for lunch at the old village of the Patenos. From here in the +afternoon after five leagues to the northwest we reached this mission, +in good condition, thanks be to God. + + Santa Clara Mission, Fr. Jose Viader + October 28, 1810 + + +FATHER RAMON ABELLA'S EXPEDITION, 1811 + +This manuscript of twenty-seven pages is entitled: "Diario de un +registro de los rios grandes, October 15-31, 1811." The title page bears +the note: + + A copy in the handwriting of and signed by Gervasio Arguello. + + Exploration of the Eastern Shores of upper San Francisco Bay, San + Pablo and Suisun Bays and of the lower Sacramento and San Joaquin + Rivers. + +The authorship of this document is something of a mystery. The copy in +the Bancroft Library has the title given above but is in the handwriting +of, and signed by, Gervasio Arguello, who was not a member of the +expedition. If it is Father Abella's actual diary, then how may one +explain the references to "Father Ramon," "the two priests," etc.? +Furthermore, the diction is confused and ungrammatical, unlike what one +would expect of a literate priest. Certain passages give the impression +of a third person who is involved. My own feeling is that Father Abella +kept some sort of record but that these notes, plus a verbal account by +Sergeant Jose Sanchez, the military commander of the expedition were +worked over by Gervasio Arguello into a day-by-day account which has the +semblance of a diary. Credit for the leadership of the expedition, of +course, remains with Father Abella. + + + Exploration of the Eastern Shores of upper San Francisco Bay, San + Pablo and Suisun Bays and of the lower Sacramento and San Joaquin + Rivers. + +_15th day._ At ten o'clock in the morning we set out from the wharf +at the port and stopped at Angel Island because the tide was running +out.[17] At about four in the afternoon the tide turned and was +favorable. We set out, arrived at the Point of the Huchiunes, and +stopped on the south side of that point. We went during the entire day +about five hours, all at the oar in a calm sea. Angel Island, the Point +of the Huchiunes, and that of the Abastos form a bay equal in size to +that of the Port.[18] It contains eight islands, most of which are +small. One of them, which has to be passed in navigating to the Point +of the Huchiunes, has a sand bar, and it is necessary to pass a little +away from it to the west. It is recognizable only when a bearing is +taken. The west side [of the island] is covered with trees. + +_16th day._ We set out from the above-mentioned Point of the Huchiunes, +which we called Point San Pablo. Where we slept is a fairly good beach +with water and firewood where one may stop. This Point San Pablo has +opposite to it another point which we called San Pedro and halfway +between are two little islands. From one point to the other will be +about twice the distance as from the fort to the other shore.[19] These +two points enclose the bay which we have mentioned, and form another, +much larger, which we estimated to extend four leagues. From the center +to the periphery this bay is square. On the northern side and the +western it has five villages, which are still heathen. On the western +side is a cove, according to the Indians quite large, but Ensign Gabriel +Moraga has twice reached its head in the expeditions he has carried out +in these parts. + +At one and a half leagues we encountered another point which we called +San Andres.[20] Between the latter and Point San Pablo, all of which is +the mainland of San Jose,[21] there is a cove which ends in a creek. The +latter, according to those who have traveled past it, and according to +the Indians, is like that of the town [San Jose] but runs very deep, +and has a fair amount of trees. Between the points there are 4 varas of +water, which drops to 2. This is while cruising some distance from +the shore; farther in it deepens, the same as at the port [of San +Francisco], because there is a channel which carries a considerable +current. All the land of the Huchiunes is quite bare, although there +are some oaks. + +As far as Carquinez Strait, with what we covered yesterday and today, we +will have consumed some eight hours all to the northeast, one-quarter +north from the mission. Here, within the eight leagues,[22] the bay +proper ends. The strait is formed by an island[23] and the mainland of +San Jose. The island soon ends and mainland remains on each side. The +strait runs southeast and makes a half-turn to the south and has a +strong current, according to the rise and fall of the tide. This strait +is about two and one-half leagues long and one-quarter of a league +wide, although in some places rather wider, and ends in the land of +the Chupunes, for there it opens out. At this place we stopped at +eleven-thirty o'clock on a little beach, which at low tide remains dry +and where the boats have to pull back about 200 varas so as not to run +aground. At low tide there is visible a rock, which is covered by the +water and could damage boats approaching the shore. However, a little +farther down, toward the mountain, there is a kind of small stream which +is good [for anchorage]. To this place we gave the name "La Division." +It has a large pool of water and considerable firewood. Here we stopped +for the night uneventfully. The shore opposite the mainland of San Jose +on the strait called Carquinez is very bare country.[24] + +_17th day._[25] We set forth at nine o'clock in the morning, and as soon +as we emerged from the strait at the point which, as I have said, we +called "La Division," we entered a large bay four or five leagues wide. +Gradually from here the water becomes sweet. We cruised close to the +coast of San Jose, and at five leagues[26] the estuary begins to +develop. We traveled the whole day as close as possible to the coast +of San Jose. There are various islands covered with tule rushes and +thickets. At fourteen leagues[27] the rivers begin to form, with tule on +the banks. It is sheer swamp, which prevents any landing on firm ground. + +In this branch of the river, as in all the others which we have seen, +we observed that when the tide rises, the water in some places comes up +to a height of a vara and a half, and this is quite to be expected on +account of the flatness of the land and the thrust of the sea through +the Carquinez Strait. The channel of the river over which we traveled +today has a width of a quarter of a league and in places somewhat more. + +We cruised today somewhere near eight hours, four of them with a fresh +breeze, and we measured about eighteen leagues, all to the east, with +the river turning now and again to the northeast. We stopped at an +island which has trees of some thickness but which is choked with +underbrush, and it is evidently submerged during floods. + +A little before reaching this island the river divides into two +branches. From the mouth some alders are visible at half a league +distance to the left. This is the entrance which should be taken at +this island. The place where we stopped was recognized as a fishing +location of the Ompines, for there were signs of campfires.[28] + +_18th day._ We set out from this island at seven o'clock in the morning, +and went back half a league so as to enter the previously mentioned +river mouth (although it seems to me that it is not necessary to go +back, but rather to follow the same entrance for we afterwards saw that +they [the two river mouths] joined each other, a thing which even the +guide had not yet noticed). We traveled about seven leagues to the east, +with a fresh north wind. The river makes some turns at about one-quarter +of the seven-league distance and forms another island with the +opening[29] where we slept. This is why I said that it is not necessary +to turn back. Everything is tule swamp on each side, with an occasional +bush. The channel, as has been stated, is about a quarter of a league +wide. At noon we [stopped and] landed in a swamp. Here the river widens +considerably and there is another opening, which, although somewhat +concealed, communicates with the River of the North.[30] The latter goes +up to the left and is the one we took on the 24th on the down trip. + +We set out at two o'clock in the afternoon. At about half a league we +took the opening to the right, which is the one carrying less water and +with some small trees, leaving the one on the left, which is the main +stream, for we always tried to stay as close as we could to the mainland +of San Jose. But if others come after us, they should follow the main +river, because all the other openings lead to branches which leave it +[the main river] and return to it, forming an infinity of islands.[31] +We cruised to the south, but there are so many twists and windings that +at times we circled the compass. The principal turns are south and +southwest, and the course follows this way twice, but the banks are +covered with nothing but tule, and so high that one sees nothing but +sky, water, and tule. We kept on till eleven o'clock in the evening +because there was no place to stop, and slept in the boats. There is +land but it is flooded. [The stream] has a depth of 8 to 14 varas and a +width of 80 varas, although in some places it widens, as at the turns +and bends. At about nine o'clock at night the river divided into two +parts, and that which we left goes on to join the big river [Rio Grande] +which we encountered on the 22nd. It carries more water than the one we +followed, and the two join a little before the place where we set up the +cross. We did not measure the distance we traveled on account of the +bends and turns made by the river.[32] + +_19th day._ We set forth at five o'clock in the morning and traveled +until twelve o'clock noon. The river keeps on in the same way with its +windings, covered with tules, but now one meets land that is a little +higher but still bare of trees. We ran upon two or three village sites, +the people from which have already been made Christians at the mission +of San Jose.[33] We set out again at two o'clock in the afternoon, and +after a league's travel found three heathen women seventy years of age, +with one husband and one boy, who were San Jose Christians. They had +quite a few fish. This place is known as being good for fishing, and +here, as along all the river, are many signs of beaver, although I have +never seen more than the signs. This afternoon, already, the river has +turned to the east, with an occasional bend to the southwest. We went +about three leagues and slept in the land of the Bolbones. Still there +are ponds and tule swamps, although it is said that white men have +pastured horses only about half a league away.[34] + +_20th day._ We set out at sunrise with the intention of saying Mass at +Pescadero in order to have dry land [for the service]. However after a +mile from the start the boats ran aground. Here we sounded the river, +which is seen clearly to be running and which appears to me to carry +about as much water as the river at the ranch at Monterey.[35] The depth +which it had [i.e., we had observed] on the two preceding days was due +to the low level of the land. From here to the mouth found on the 22nd, +which will be about nine or ten leagues, can be traversed by boats only +with much difficulty. + +We turned back to the place from which we had set out, where we +celebrated Mass. After four hours, when the water had risen due to the +backing up caused by the reversal of the tide, we again undertook the +same course. As I have said, the river contains very little water and +there are numerous trees. We were desirous of following this pathway +because the Indians said this river had two arms, one of which went on +to join the Rio Grande, which we left on the 18th. As has been said we +did reach it on the 22nd. + +We went about two leagues with some effort and halted at the village of +Pescadero, called also of the Bolbones. The San Jose Christians who were +there on a visit presented themselves. From the villages of the vicinity +Father Fray Buenaventura[36] baptized six ill and decrepit heathen women +and the baby boy of a neophyte. In this spot, which is also an island, +the day was passed. On the shore where we landed there are several oak +trees on each side, and the land promises well for wheat, pasturage, or +even corn by dry farming.[37] There are certain trees which are said to +be mangroves, but in time of high water the area will be impassable.[38] + +_21st day._ We sent four guides on tule rafts to see whether the boats +could get through. They encountered some difficulty, although they were +optimistic that it was possible [to pass]. We set out at one o'clock at +noon and cruised until nightfall in a direction northeast, one-quarter +east. The stream bed is full of logs and the boats grounded two or three +times. The stream is inadequate for travel by boat. We journeyed about +three or four leagues and stopped at a high spot which had a number of +oak trees but was entirely surrounded by tule swamps. A league from the +starting point we passed out of the slough called Pescadero. We left it +on the right hand and took the [channel] on the left hand, which trends +to the northeast and [with] the opening which we left behind forms an +island. For an Indian went past with a boat and turned off and met us in +the big river [Braso Grande], he going upward and we downward. Although +some of the soldiers said that it [the channel] emptied into White Lake +[Laguna del Blanco][39] I conclude that this is not true, but that White +Lake discharges into the Rio Grande. Furthermore, from horseback, in the +tules, one cannot see well, so I base my opinion on what an Indian said. +The matter could not be settled because the boats ran aground.[40] + +_22nd day._ We set out from the place of the oak trees at about seven +o'clock in the evening. We went to the southeast with some turns to the +east. We traveled four or five leagues, two of them still in low water. +The river bank was populated with oaks and other trees, and once the +boats ran aground. At the end of the two leagues the water increases +threefold in volume and the river divides into two channels. One of +these is that which we left behind in the evening of the 18th. [The +other] is better because it carries much more water. [Both branches] go +to unite with each other in the middle of the tule swamps, where we +slept on the day mentioned.[41] We kept on cruising up the river with +the tripled volume of water. The water is clear and both banks are +covered with oak trees. At three leagues we encountered the Rio Grande. +Here we observed the junction of the rivers; it has about 5 varas depth +in the center and a width of about 100. The river water is pure, because +it was low tide and it is known that the tide exercises little influence +because the land is already high. This place lies about on the parallel +of the Pueblo [San Jose], according to those who have come by land, and +is distant from the Pueblo some 25 or 26 leagues from east to west, +although it may be a little below this latitude. Here it is evident from +the quantity of water that several rivers have united, for there is no +ford and there would always be required a pontoon or boat to cross the +stream. At this place there are many oak trees on the opposite, or +eastern, shore. There is no tule, and only in great floods does the +river overflow, for the western bank is the lower. Here it is necessary +to take soundings in order to cross from one side to the other. + +Four or five leagues higher up, where there is the village of +Christians, the river unites with the watercourse which we left behind +yesterday.[42] It seems to me that in this plain there are islands and +that it would not be difficult to have the horses and cattle cross by +swimming and the people by boats, because the river falls very gently. +This would be much easier than at the Strait of Carquinez, which is the +only other possible place we have seen. All the tule swamp is +impassable. + +Just here the river separates by way of two openings: one is that which +we followed this morning; the other is closer to the mainland of the +opposite shore. We are going to follow down the latter because it is the +most direct. Here a cross was made with a chisel in an oak tree, about +four inches wide and correspondingly long, about four varas high and in +the point between the openings. Father Fray Ramon named the river San +Juan Capistrano.[43] If anyone comes back to explore, he should follow +upstream. On the return trip he should not take the entrance to the +left, which is the one we have just come from, because the river is full +of logs. The other one, even if it contains no logs, runs in the middle +of the tule swamps, and in that region nothing can be accomplished[44] +unless it be salmon fishing and beaver [trapping], although I have +already said elsewhere that I saw only their traces. + +Here we stopped to eat, and at one o'clock in the afternoon we turned +back and went around the entrance which, as has been said, leads, +isolated, through numerous islands, all of which we have traversed +since the 17th. The largest of these are the most deeply submerged. We +cruised to the northwest, one-quarter north, for some five leagues, for +downstream the boats travel considerably faster, and came upon a village +called "Los Coyboses."[45] Seventy persons of all ages and sexes +presented themselves. The village may hold nearly 180 persons but a +message had been sent to them that we were coming, and it was evident +that the rest had hidden themselves. They seem to be docile people. +Father Fray Buenaventura baptized a sick boy and two women, one of them +decrepit, the other very ill, for there are already from here a few +Christians in the mission of San Jose. The bank of the river still has +some oak trees, but from here downward the tule swamps begin again. We +halted a league below the village, on a high spot along the river, where +we slept. + +_23rd day._ We set out at about seven o'clock in the morning and +traveled some three leagues to the northwest, ignoring the turns, where +we came upon a village, which according to count could contain 900 +persons, although they were segregated in three villages, each at some +distance from the other.[46] We saw only one of them, where about 150 +persons presented themselves, of both sexes and all ages. They showed us +their landing place, and the houses made it clear that twice as many +people lived there. They had heard [about our arrival] the previous +night and the majority fled. We gave them a few little presents and they +responded in a like manner. It is an excellent place to fish for salmon. + +We started out again about two o'clock in the afternoon and went about +five leagues and at the halfway point we found a village which had no +more than two persons. They said that the rest of the people had fled +because they had heard that we were coming that way. They had taken up +the houses, which are of straw, and all their personal belongings. The +currents of the river downstream strike sharply against this village. +The land is a little higher, the oaks can be seen from the opposite +shore, and there is already dry land along the river we are following. +So say the Indians. Farther down we came onto another village which had +been completely removed at the same time. We even caught them going +ashore, whereupon they threw away their possessions, abandoned their +boats, and hid in the tule swamps. No matter how hard we tried we could +not succeed in finding more than four persons and two dogs. They said +they had done this on account of the fear which they had for us. Here +again is land under water. On this day the Father from San Jose baptized +some sick people and infants who had some connection with the neophytes +of San Jose Mission. During the afternoon we cruised to the northwest, +with some turns to the north. The river divides into two channels, but +soon they join again forming an island.[47] + +_24th day._ The previous night we slept in the tule swamp and the water +reached our blankets at the turn of the tide. The whole area is this way +for several leagues. The water rose about one and one-half varas. We +observed that the people who had run away from the rancheria, as I +have said, yelled a great deal, obviously to collect together all the +inhabitants who had hidden by letting them know that we had already +moved on. + +We set out about six o'clock in the morning, following the direction of +the river, which runs to the northwest, although it turns occasionally +north and south. We traveled about seven leagues and came upon several +openings which entered and left here and there, but all of little +consequence. They all connect with the river which we are following. In +the afternoon we started at one o'clock. The river widens wherever it +shoals, and in some places becomes almost a bay, because the land is +very low. After going three leagues from this afternoon's starting point +we came upon the entrance which we took on the 18th on the up-trip and +the one of which I spoke on the 22nd. Here the waters of the river again +unite.[48] This entrance remains on the left hand going downstream. +There are a few small trees, like brush, and on the opposite bank also +a few other small trees. If people come up this way again, they should +leave this entrance to their right hand and go directly up the river +because this [route] is much better and shorter. We went on down the +river. At half a league we took another channel on the right [going +downstream] which is an arm of the Rio de San Francisco [Sacramento] and +which connects here with the San Juan Capistrano [San Joaquin]. This can +be navigated only by pilots familiar with the terrain, such as performed +the task for us. It seems small at first, but later widens considerably, +and from here on travels northward. At the end of a league we +encountered two other entrances, one of which leads north and the +other east. That to the east we did not explore, for, according to +the statements of the Indians, who said that it came to an end soon, +it appeared to me to be one of the [branches of] the Rio San Juan +Capistrano which we saw this morning, and which breaks off to the +right. I was not certain of this but it seemed likely, according to +the direction and the opinion of the Indians. We took the branch to the +north, as I said, and in a little while we stopped on a height in the +midst of a thicket full of trees of considerable thickness, but which is +nevertheless an island, as we saw in the following days. To the other +side of this high ground everything is under water. The Indians today +did not cease returning to see what course we were taking, but we could +not catch them because everywhere they hide in the swamps. + +_25th day._ We set out at seven o'clock in the morning. We cruised to +the north, with a few turns to the east. I have already said that this +is a branch of the Rio de San Francisco. It is necessary to traverse it +by day because it has several tree trunks crosswise in the channel, but +it has depth and width. At about three leagues we suddenly ran onto +three heathen Indians. At first they fled precipitately, but soon they +halted, because one had just been on a visit to Mission San Jose with +the two other heathen and two neophytes of the same mission, San +Jose. These we sent to the village so that we should not come upon it +unexpectedly. The third [heathen] we took with us in the boat. At about +two leagues we descried the village, which was in two sections, one on +each side of the river.[49] As soon as [the inhabitants] saw us there +began a great uproar, in spite of which they told us by signs where the +river was deepest. The two guides whom we carried with us managed to +make them be quiet, and performed good services in this respect. We went +ashore and only the priests and two soldiers stayed in the boat. The +Indians went ahead with their chatter and finally they [the natives] +calmed down. The village, as I have said already, is divided between +the two banks of the river, which is perhaps 30 to 40 varas wide. Those +on the left hand, which is to the west,[50] were of evil disposition. +However much those on the right bank tried, they could not induce more +than half of the men [on the left bank] to cross to the other side. +Finally they were half pacified, although it always seemed as if they +were in a bad mood. They were given a few little presents, and they gave +acorn mush to the neophytes. About 200 men presented themselves, for +other villages had joined them. Already they had told us that they, the +Tauquimenes, were going to fight. + +There was a large population but only a few old women allowed themselves +to be seen. The young women, boys, and girls had hidden, either in the +brush or in the houses themselves. Soon after we had arrived there +sixteen young men appeared, making a disturbance, as they are accustomed +to do. One of the chiefs ran to meet them, as well as an elderly woman, +and took their bows away from them. We ate with them, although it was +rather uncomfortable because they never did quiet down entirely. They +said they were behaving in this manner because they had been told that +we had killed all the people at the village of the Coyboses, which is +near Pescadero on one of the branches of the Rio de San Juan Capistrano +[San Joaquin]. Furthermore, I am sure that [the population] of several +villages had come together in this restricted locality, because some of +the Indians said they had come to gather acorns and there are extensive +woods [here]. At last peace was established and we took our departure, +although before we left we told them that if they wanted to fight, let +them take up their arms. But they said no. + +After traveling about a mile we entered the river, which here divides +into two branches. It is a fine river and carries plenty of water; +indeed the stream which we had been following contained no more than +one-third as much. The river extends to the north, but from here we went +down the branch to the west.[51] The heathen now came out to accompany +us and show us the way. This division of the stream is 28 to 30 leagues +east of the mission of San Francisco. + +Having gone down the river one league we came upon another village which +had fourteen houses, and in this village there were already some of the +men who had been in the previous one. They showed us the landing place +and behaved in a very friendly fashion, but nevertheless we saw no more +than two or three women of great age. So we went along, seeing other +little hamlets of two or three houses, and it became evident that all +[the inhabitants] had assembled in the large village previously +mentioned. + +In all this day we traveled about twelve leagues and the number of +people may have reached some 1,200 souls. However there may have +been more, for the first [village] could have contained about 2,000, +according to the size of the houses here, which are 28 to 30 varas +in circumference with a post in the center. Also it was said that a +considerable number of people were higher up [the river] gathering +acorns. + +All that we have passed today is part of an island. Each branch [of the +river] is covered with trees on both banks, of various kinds and very +large. There are many walnut trees and wild grapes but the latter have +stems so thick that those who have seen grapes in favorable countries +say they have never seen such thick trunks. The land on both sides rises +considerably. It is excellent for anything which one might wish to sow, +in those areas not covered with underbrush.[52] + +Higher up the river the heathen said there was another channel which +is as large, or larger than, the one which we are following. This is +true, for the next day we found where it joined with the latter and +the [volume of] water is doubled.[53] Therefore the river higher up +must be little smaller than the San Juan Capistrano. We stopped and +slept on an elevation covered with trees of the kinds described +previously. + +_26th day._ We set out at seven o'clock in the morning. The river +spreads out considerably and in two places the boats ran aground because +the tide was very low. However there is a [deeper] channel along the +banks. After we had gone about a league and a half we reached the stream +entrance which was mentioned yesterday and the water was doubled in +quantity and the river now was about 7 varas deep and 400 wide. From +here downward [the river] seems like an arm of the ocean, for the land +becomes lower and at the meeting point of the sea and the other river +the current is brought to a standstill. The two streams are from the +Rio de San Francisco and, with the stream which we left yesterday, +constitute in all three channels and consequently form islands.[54] +Farther above, where all the water is united in a single stream, the +river must be as large as it is down here, but nevertheless it will not +be as large as the San Juan Capistrano. + +Down here, where the two channels unite, there is a village of the +Ompines. Some of the people have already been baptized at San Jose, +because they [are accustomed to] pass over to the opposite shore. We +traveled in the entire day some twelve leagues and stopped where the +hills end which are opposite the high hill of the Bolbones and which are +very bare, completely devoid of trees and shrubs. However, the deer +run in herds, for there are some great plains with an occasional low +hill.[55] Those persons should come to this point who wish to sail up +the Rio de San Francisco, as we have heard it was formerly called, for +it was here that the schooners turned around.[56] We went on to the +place where we slept on the 17th of this month and it seems to me that +they [the former explorers] came this far and must have returned from +here, that is, without ascending higher up the river, because there is +not enough water for schooners. + +The first six leagues which we covered today are populated, as I said +before, with various kinds of trees, but the last six are very bare. +This Rio de San Francisco, which we are now leaving, is good for any +kind of settlement and contains many people, but one cannot get to it +except by boat. The narrowest passages are at the Port of San Francisco +or at the Strait of Carquinez. + +_27th day._ Holy Mass was celebrated at the hill of the Ompines. We set +out at about eleven o'clock in the morning and went some twelve leagues, +six of them to the north and the rest winding through a slough of fresh +water close to the land of the opposite shore. We slept on a height +about a league before arriving at the plain of the Suisunes. All that +we have passed today is low, but very bare hills; in all this country +there is no running stream. Going from here to the Suisunes there must +be at least a half-tide so that the boats will not run aground.[57] + +_28th day._ Holy Mass was celebrated, the day being that of the Holy +Apostles, St. Simon and St. Jude. We went about one league and stopped +at the end of the slough of the Suisunes [Suisun Slough] at half a +boat's length from shore so that one could jump onto solid ground. +It was on a big plain, with fine land, completely covered at a short +distance with oaks and live oaks, finally becoming uneven and hilly. +The Serro de los Bolbones [Mt. Diablo] lies about twelve leagues to +the southwest. + +We sent four neophytes from the San Francisco Mission, natives of this +area, to locate their countrymen, and fifty men from two villages +presented themselves, all unarmed. They brought us some of those things +which they held in highest esteem and gave us their war decorations.[58] +We responded in the same manner by paying part of their value. The +villages are called Malaca and Suisun. According to what the Indians +said, the latter is divided into three parts. They claimed that it +was quite close but according to the signs between here and the shore +somewhat less than two leagues away; a short time ago they were living +on the shore. That was where Second Lieutenant Gabriel Moraga struck +them the blow.[59] Thoroughly cowed the poor people have remained, for +they are badly scared. There is another village called Ululato farther +away. It had been told us that they wanted to fight but the exact +opposite happened, because they did not dare to visit us. In terror +they sent us some eighteen presents, which were not worth much, using +a Suisun as messenger, and stated, as I have indicated, that they were +afraid to approach us. The presents were paid for, by means of the +Suisun, who was sent to tell them that they should not be afraid. +But they did not appear. It is known that these people are all very +tractable. The place is very good for the establishment of missions but +there remains the difficulty of getting there except by boat through the +narrow passages mentioned above. + +_29th day._ We set out at two o'clock in the morning and arrived at +Carquinez Strait by sunrise. The section which we traversed this morning +is a large bay, and before arriving at the Strait the water is already +salty. The Carquinez Hills also are bare.[60] We stopped below the +Strait about four hours and in the afternoon arrived at Angel Island +opposite the Presidio. We sailed in the afternoon under a favorable wind +and reversed the trip of the first two days by the same route. The two +bays and their islands are discussed there [i.e., the entries for the +first two days]. We could have reached the Presidio if we had not +stopped so long, because on the down trip one goes at least twice as +fast. This is because at least eight of the twelve hours from tide to +tide are consumed by the outgoing tide, which flows very rapidly. There +is a quite natural reason [for this phenomenon], for the water which +enters must flow out again, having been held in the meantime by the +rivers, plus that which the rivers themselves carry down. All this I +have already heard from the Indians, and on that account those who are +not very skillful, struggling to[61]... + +_30th day._ We left Angel Island, opposite the Presidio at ten o'clock +in the morning. Up till now the sea had been calm, but now a squall fell +upon us, the sea arose, and we took shelter on the opposite shore, in +front of the fort. The sea stayed in this condition all day. In the +afternoon it seemed to certain persons that there was some improvement. +Finally we crossed, although the sea was quite rough and we, the +fifty-eight people, arrived at the Presidio. The only difficulty was +the breaking of a rudder pintle of the mission boat on a log, but it +was soon repaired. + + Presidio of San Francisco, Gervasio Arguello + 31 October 1811 (rubric) + + +JOSE ARGUELLO'S ATTACK ON AN INDIAN VILLAGE, 1813 + +The excerpt below is apparently a direct quotation, although there are +no quotation marks in the transcript. + + _Jose Arguello to Governor Arrillaga_ + San Francisco, October 31, 1813 + (Prov. St. Pap., XIX: 334-348) + + On the 22nd of the month now ending ten soldiers left this Presidio + and embarked in one of the launches of the near-by mission of San + Francisco in order to join Master Sergeant Francisco Soto. He left + San Jose Mission the same day with two soldiers and 100 Indian + auxiliaries for the purpose of capturing the fugitives from the + above-mentioned mission of San Jose. Having united on the 25th with + the troops which set sail from here the 22nd, he navigated the + rivers all the night of the 25th, hiding as soon as day dawned on + the 26th so as not to be detected. + + The following night they continued and at dawn of the 27th they fell + upon the village where the fugitives were located.[62] This was on + a quite large island, very brush and swamp. Nevertheless they were + observed long before they arrived because the fugitive Indians, + informed many days previously that the soldiers were going in search + of them, gathered together the people of four villages throughout + the area and sent out their spies and scouts in all directions from + which they suspected they might be surprised. They segregated at the + same time all the women and children who could act as a hindrance + to them and held all the warriors to await the troops. As a result, + when the troops arrived they encountered a stubborn resistance, for + they were opposed on all sides by innumerable Indians who were + waiting, fully prepared. + + According to Soto's estimate, there might have been over 1,000 + warriors. The latter attacked with such fury that all the valor + of the soldiers was necessary in order to repulse them. This was + accomplished by heavy fire, the hostile Indians maintaining their + offensive for a long time and holding their position on all sides + without perceiving the damage which their obstinacy caused them. + They were confident perhaps in their own great number and the small + number of soldiers and Indian auxiliaries with whom they were + contending, as well as the advantages provided them by the terrain. + Soto for a while saw victory as uncertain, because of the large + number of adversaries, and the multitude of arrows which flew + at them, while at the same time the enemy showed only obstinate + resistance. Finally the savages recognized that the resistance was + merely a danger to themselves and decided to retreat. Then, although + Soto pursued them in their flight for a long time he gained no + decision because of the difficulties of the terrain, where it was + necessary in places to walk in water up to the knees. The Indians + were much favored by very close thickets in which they could hide. + Although they were dislodged from that place, the river was very + near and they all jumped in to swim, some crossing to the opposite + island, others hiding in the dense tule swamps where they could not + be followed. For this reason it was not possible to capture anyone. + + The enemy was left badly beaten and adequately punished for his + boldness, for the battle was very costly, and in the action a + considerable number were killed. On our part only one of the Indian + auxiliaries died, a man named Julio, whom they seriously wounded but + who got back without being captured by our opponents. This loss, + compared with that suffered by the enemy and considered with + reference to the very limited number who broke them and cut them + to pieces, makes it reasonable to consider the outcome favorable, + particularly in view of the poor chances attending a campaign with + such unequal numbers and with such advantages in terrain for the + savages. Thus the troops had to stand waiting for the enemy, and at + the same time watch their footing on ground so muddy and swampy that + in places the water came above their knees. This in turn made the + savages more desperate in their attack because they encouraged each + other by saying (as the Indian auxiliaries interpreted them) that + the soldiers were worth nothing on foot, that they knew how to fight + only on horseback. But they came out very disillusioned for they + found that [the soldiers] fought on foot the same as on horseback + and that their weapons were invincible, regardless of style. + + At the end of the attack, which lasted for three hours, retirement + was accomplished from this place on the afternoon of the same day, + the 27th. Again all the people were embarked and, after landing on + the mainland of San Jose, the Indian auxiliaries took up their march + toward that mission under the care of two soldiers. Soto continued + his journey by water with the remaining troops and the Indian + oarsmen as far as the Presidio, where he arrived on the evening of + the 28th....[63] + + ... Worthy of praise, as Soto himself declared to me, are the Indian + auxiliaries who accompanied him by virtue of their obedience and the + valor with which they threw themselves into the most dangerous parts + of the battle--without showing any cowardice.[64] + + + + +VI. EXPEDITIONS, 1815-1820 + + +In 1815 a joint expedition consisting of two or more parties traversed +the valley. Two full accounts remain, those of Ortega and of Pico. In +1816 Father Luis Antonio Martinez circulated in the Tulare Lake region, +some of his exploits generating a lively controversy with other friars. +The delta was again visited in 1817 by Father Narciso Duran, who left +an extensive diary. With him was Lieutenant Luis Arguello, who also +submitted a report. All these documents are presented herewith. + +The last important expedition of the pioneering period was that of +Estudillo in 1819, but, as explained previously, this diary has already +been translated and published. Subsequent to 1820 numerous incursions +were made into the valley and even well into the Sierra Nevada. They +were, however, not exploratory in character but were outright military +raids and campaigns. They should therefore not be included in the +present group of expeditions. + + +ORTEGA'S EXPEDITION TO KINGS RIVER AND TULARE LAKE, 1815 + +_Juan Ortega's Diary_ + + Copy, made by Sergeant Ortega at Mission San Juan Bautista with + covering letter, of diary, November 4-15, 1815, of expedition from + Mission San Miguel, accompanied by Father Juan Cabot and soldiers, + in search of runaway Indians. Report on the lower Kings River and + "Tulare Lake" area. + + Diary written by Master Sergeant Don Juan de Ortega with reference + to the localities which, by order of the Governor, I was directed to + survey, reckoning from November 4 up to the day when junction was + made with Sergeant Jose Dolores Pico on Kings River. + +_4th day._ At about ten o'clock in the evening I arrived at San Miguel +Mission with a party of fifteen men. At one and one-half leagues from +the mission we joined that night another party of the same number which +came from Monterey. + +_5th day._ This day I left the said mission, accompanied by Reverend +Father Fray Juan Cabot and, together with the party, moved camp for the +night at the place called Cholam.[1] + +_6th day._ We stayed all day in this place organizing the horses. + +_7th [and 8th] day._ At dawn we started out and camped for the night +at Chenem. Here I remained all day of the 8th until sundown. Then we +traveled all night so as not to be seen by the Indians. Because we were +now in the Plain of the Tulares and because it is a land without trails +the guide and all of us lost our direction and did not know where we +were. However, having sent out Corporal Juan Arroyo, a soldier, and the +guide to explore, they returned after a long time with the report that +we were near Kings River. I immediately ordered haste to be made, but +even so we could not reach the crossing of the river before dawn. + +_9th day._ Realizing that it was useless to fall upon the village of +Tache[2] in the daytime, for the sun was already up, I decided to remain +hidden all day in a low area formed by a bend in the river. We managed +to catch two old Indians who were coming to fish who, before they went +back to their village of Tache, told us its correct location. At sunset, +the same afternoon, I decided to post two men with horses hidden at the +river crossing to prevent Indians from getting to the village. After +they had been there a little while two Indians appeared on horseback +going through the meadow toward the village mentioned, with four +animals ahead of them, one loaded with fish. However, seeing themselves +overtaken by the soldiers, they abandoned horses and saddle and crossed +the river by swimming. In the darkness of the night, along the river and +in the tule swamps and thickets it was impossible to catch them. By the +saddle the soldier Martin Olivera recognized the Indian Antonio, a +fugitive from Soledad Mission. + +_10th day._ At dawn I attacked the village of Tache although +considerably discouraged by my suspicion that the two Indian fugitives +had given word during the night of our arrival. As a matter of fact, I +found the village deserted. I followed through the tule swamp and after +going a little way I met three armed Indians at a distance of about one +hundred long varas. We talked to them through the interpreter. The reply +they gave us was that they were afraid; whereupon they plunged into the +marshy lake. I waited here until nearly nine o'clock in the morning, +together with the Father, calling to them. Finally some eight or nine of +them showed themselves, unarmed, but buried deep in the swamp. We urged +them to come out, but with no effect. They said that all the people were +scared and were hiding in the lake because the fugitive Indians and +other Christian runaways from Soledad had told them we were coming to +kill them at the point of the lance. Here were found three horses, one +from San Miguel and two from Soledad, formerly in possession of the +fugitives. These Indians informed us that the Indian Antonio and his +companions the previous night had started in the direction of the +village of Notonto.[3] With a view to seeing if we could catch them I +decided to visit the latter village. But all was in vain, for we arrived +at the town a little before sunset and were received by the Indian +inhabitants with much affection. Indeed, two of them came out to meet us +on the road, giving us their poor presents and imparting the information +that no fugitives had appeared there. After the Father, with some of +the soldiers, had dismounted and after they had inspected the entire +village, we retired to camp for the night at a distance of one and a +half gunshots. The Indians came there to serve the troops by bringing +water and firewood. + +_11th day._ At dawn the Indians returned to bid us farewell with much +rejoicing. We took the direction of the village of Telame,[4] where we +arrived at sunset. The people of this big village we found to be totally +dispersed on account of the heavy mortality and great famine which they +had been suffering. However, we were received with much affability and +were given presents. The Father succeeded in baptizing four very old +women and one man who was dying. + +_12th day._ We set out in search of the village of Choynoct,[5] spending +almost all the day looking for it. We found it in the same manner as the +previous one [Telame] and in the same condition. From there we went to +pass the night higher up on the San Gabriel River. + +_13th day._ We went on and spent the night at the crossing of this river. + +_14th day._ We took the direction of the village of Sumtache.[6] After +having gone about a league and a half into the tule swamp along a narrow +trail we found the village on the other side of an arm of the lake, with +some twenty armed men in front of it. However, after we had talked to +them and stated the purpose of our visit, several of them laid down +their weapons and came to where we were. Reproached for having received +the troops in such a manner, they said they were scared because the +fugitive Indians from Soledad had told them the soldiers were coming to +kill them all. Asked by the Father where were the four Indians of his +mission who were fugitives in this village, they replied that two had +gone to the village of Bubal to join the Christians who were there with +license to travel (as actually was the case) and that the other two had +gone the previous week to the village of Tulamne, toward the south. +After instructing them, according to the Governor's orders, that they +should accept no fugitives in the future we took the path toward the +village of Bubal. We did not arrive until about eleven o'clock in the +evening because its location had been changed and the guide could not +find it. Here we were received with more affability than at the previous +places. + +_15th day._ At dawn we followed our course toward a junction with the +party of Sergeant Jose Dolores Pico, a junction which we actually +effected at about seven o'clock in the afternoon. In all the journey +described no slaughter of horses has been observed and no adverse +sentiment on the part of the Indians excepting only the fear inspired +among them at the village of Tache and Sumtache by the fugitives from +Soledad. I may note that at the village of Tache the Father baptized the +only man discovered there, a man incapacitated, covered with leprosy +[lepra], and debilitated by illness. + +As far as the remainder of the expedition is concerned, up to the 2nd of +December, I refer to the account written by Sergeant Jose Dolores Pico, +since I have no additions or changes to make in it. The foregoing is +what I have to communicate to your Excellency, in compliance with my +obligations. + + Mission San Juan Bautista, Juan de Ortega + December 2, 1815 (rubric) + + +_Jose Dolores Pico's Diary, 1815_ + + Copy of a diary, November 3-December 3, 1815, signed by Pico at + Mission San Juan Bautista, as a report to Governor Pablo Vicente de + Sola, of an expedition, including Fr. Jaime Escude and soldiers, in + search of runaway Indians. Starting from Mission San Juan Bautista, + the expedition proceeded eastward to the valley of the San Joaquin, + joined the expedition led by Sergeant Juan de Ortega, and returned + with them. + + Diary written by Sergeant Jose Dolores Pico by order of Governor Don + Pablo Vicente de Sola from the 3rd day of November, 1815. + +_3rd day [of November]._ I left the Presidio [of Monterey] and went as +far as the Royal Treasury, where all the troops under my command were +mobilized. This day there were no events worth recording. + +_4th day._ On this day I inspected the troops, the ammunition, and the +weapons, and at about five o'clock in the afternoon continued my march +toward the place called Ansaimas [Paraje de los Ansaimas].[7] Near seven +o'clock in the evening I arrived with one soldier at Mission San Juan, +where I met Reverend Father Fray Jaime Escude. After reviewing the +troops who were to go with me from the mission, we started on our way, +the Father being with us, at quarter past twelve at night. At about one +o'clock in the morning we met the rest of the troops at the Arroyo of +San Benito. All well. + +_5th day._ We continued our march to the place mentioned [Ansaimas], +where we met citizens Cornelio Lucas Altimirano, Manuel Pinto, and +Quintin Ortega, all with weapons and horses. Here I remained the rest +of the day waiting for the equipage of the Father, which had not yet +arrived. + +_6th day._ We left this place at about five o'clock in the morning, +taking an easterly direction, and at about seven o'clock in the evening +we arrived at the place called San Luis Gonzaga, which is situated at +the foot of the Sierra on the border of the Tulare Valley. Here we +passed the night without incident. + +_7th day._ In the morning I again inspected the troops and the munitions +and at about nine o'clock in the evening we started out, going toward +the east. At twelve o'clock midnight we reached the Tulares at the +arroyo called San Jose.[8] Here we passed the remainder of the night +up to the hour of attacking the village of the Cheneches.[9] + +_8th day._ At three o'clock in the morning we left this place and fell +upon the said village at four o'clock. Sixty-six souls were captured, +between Christians and heathen, women and men. I released four men and +twelve old women, who were crippled. The majority of the people escaped +because this village is in a bad location. Here were found seven live +horses and five recently dead. The Father baptized an infant girl on the +point of death, to whom he gave the name Severa. These heathen told me +that at a distance of four leagues up the River San Joaquin from this +village there was another village called Nopchenches, which had many +horses, and at which were to be found the Christian fugitives Justo, +Damian, Severo, and Pedro Pablo. I sent Corporal Juarez with fourteen +men to arrest the said Christians and heathen, and bring back the horses +which they said were to be found there. + +Reaching the village, he entered it, but no people remained except +the chief and four of his companions. The corporal charged him with +[concealing] the Christians and the horses which had been there. To this +he replied that the Christians, together with all his people, as soon as +they heard the noise of the troops going to the other village, had fled +to the swamps and that he and the others with him alone remained. He +also said that at the edge of the swamp there were two more and that he +would go and get them. This he did and on his return the corporal told +him to call to his people (with the idea of catching them) to help him +capture the Christians. He said he was going to bring them and went off +with the others who were already with him. They did not return, although +he [the Corporal] remained waiting a long time. Seeing that they were +not coming back, he retired and reported to me. We then directed our +course back to the place called San Jose. Here I consulted with the +corporals and decided not to attack the village of Malim, for the +Tulares were very much stirred up and it did not seem wise to do so +until our return. No other news. + +_9th day._ This morning I ordered Corporal Castillo with eight men to +escort 54 Indians, heathen and Christians, to the Presidio. After having +set him on his way I took a southerly direction and emerged from the +tule swamp. Having traveled about eight leagues from the said swamp +I turned in an easterly direction toward the San Joaquin River. On +arriving at this river at about six o'clock in the afternoon I was told +that some armed heathen were crossing to the opposite bank. Immediately +Corporal Juarez went over with some men to investigate them. The +heathen, seeing that the soldiers were crossing the river, gathered in +a village near by and began to shoot at them without further delay. The +corporal ordered [his men] to fire, killing two, and at that moment I +arrived with the rest of the troops. The enemy retired some distance +into the thickets. Thereupon I ordered all the troops to bring up the +horses and remount, but after consulting briefly with the corporals, we +decided it was better to retire a distance of two leagues and wait till +the next day because night had already fallen. + +_10th day._ At three o'clock in the morning of this day I was informed +by Soldier Mariano Soberanes (who was on duty as sentinel) that a light +was to be seen in a thicket near the camp. I ordered Soldier Archuleta +to reconnoitre and he returned saying that the illumination was a +gunshot away and that it could be the heathen of the previous day +intending to attack us at dawn. I ordered the sentinels to be on the +alert. + +At five o'clock in the morning I told two men to investigate the exposed +fire. As soon as they got close they encountered the heathen Indians, +who were already coming to attack the camp, and fired on the first of +them. As soon as we heard the uproar which resulted I came up with the +troops to oppose them. Having formed a line of battle, I told the +interpreter to ask them what they wanted and they answered, to fight. +Even after we had said to them that the officer in charge did not wish +to do them any harm, they gave no heed, but began to fight. Seeing this +I ordered them to be fired upon. They then retreated to the interior of +the underbrush. The troops dismounted at my command and fell upon them, +killing three and capturing one alive. Of the dead, one was found to be +a Christian of Mission San Juan and a leader in stealing horses. Of +those who escaped some were seen to be wounded, and, according to the +quantity of blood visible along the river, I consider that most of them +must have died. The action having ceased, I ordered Corporal Juarez with +ten men to make a reconnaissance of the rancheria, which was called +Copicha, to see if there were any horses. They brought out one, together +with two Indians. The latter were among those who had been in the battle +and, along with the other [captured as described above], confessed that +they had followed us to this place with the purpose of killing us, the +dead Christian being the one most determined to do this. During the +night they [the Indians] shot a few arrows but did us no damage. During +the engagement the only casualty was Soldier Juan Espinoza who received +a dart between his coat and his skin, but it did not hurt him. + +At eleven o'clock in the morning we set out in a direction south and +a little east and at a distance of eight leagues we came upon eleven +animals belonging to the village of Tape, which was in a wood along the +same river bottom. These we gathered up, leaving the village for the +return trip because it was already afternoon. At about four leagues we +reached the junction of the San Joaquin and the San Jose rivers where we +camped. We left behind one horse, exhausted and unable to travel. Here +we spent the night without incident. + +_11th day._ At five o'clock in the morning we continued in the same +direction as on the previous day, going along the River San Jose. At +about 4 leagues we crossed it and traveled to the east in order to avoid +bad traveling. After a league we resumed the former direction and at a +distance of nine leagues we camped for the night on the bank of the same +[river]. There had fallen by the wayside one exhausted and useless horse +and one more of those which we had recovered from the Indians. Here we +passed the night without incident. + +_12th day._ At five o'clock in the morning we set out in the same +direction and at about ten leagues we encountered a conflagration, at +which there were some heathen Indians. As soon as we saw them I made +arrangements to catch them, but as soon as they saw us, they presented +themselves without any apprehension. They gave us the news that they had +seen the troops accompanying Don Juan Ortega the previous day on Kings +River. They told me they would take me there, which they did. On the way +we came upon two villages of these same people, called Gumilchis,[10] +who all showed themselves to be very agreeable. I informed them that the +high chief who governed us wished them all well and was pleased at the +good journey which they made possible for the troops. I said that they +should not admit Christians or horses in their villages because the said +chief requested it. We crossed the river, where we came upon the trail +of the troops mentioned. We followed this trail for a league and camped +for the night without incident. + +_13th day._ At dawn of this day Soldier Juan Martinez was sick in his +stomach, and about seven o'clock in the morning we started out in a +southerly direction. At four leagues we camped without further trouble. + +_14th day._ This day we remained in the same place awaiting the troops +brought by Don Juan Ortega, and the soldier Martinez recovered without +difficulty. + +_15th day._ At about six o'clock in the afternoon the troops which we +were expecting arrived, with their horses used very roughly, for three +leagues back they had abandoned seven exhausted animals. Otherwise all +was well. + +_16th day._ The seven worn-out animals were brought in. We agreed upon +what should be done, but the departure was postponed until the following +day. No other news. + +_17th day._ At three o'clock in the afternoon we left this place, +moving back by the same road and visiting, as we passed, the village +of Notonoto. Here we were received with much affection and made the +same speech as to the Gumilchis. At a distance of two leagues, going +west, we crossed the river and there spent the night without incident. + +_18th day._ This day we took the same direction,[11] a little to the +northwest. We wanted to pass by the villages which we had seen before. +The inhabitants of these, on seeing the troops, took to the brush, and +no matter how much we called to them, through the interpreter, they did +not come. We followed our course, coming finally to sleep at a lake at +the edge of the tule swamp. To this we gave the name of San Pablo and +spent the night there without incident. + +_19th day._ We left this place at two o'clock in the afternoon in order +to attack a village which the guides said was to be found in the meadow +along the San Joaquin River. When it appeared to us that we were near +it, we stopped to await the dawn in order to attack. Meanwhile we +recovered the two horses which previously had fallen exhausted in +the same locality. No other incident. + +_20th day._ At about three o'clock in the afternoon we went to the +above-mentioned river in search of the village which the guide talked +about. Having arrived at the spot the guide was asked where the village +was. He said it was so far away that we would get there only at sunset. +We asked him why he had deceived us and he answered because he felt +cold. We asked him again and he said that the village of Tape was the +one which was to be found in that direction. However, since it was +afternoon we decided to wait for the horses, which had been left with +ten soldiers and two cowboys. They crossed the river without our knowing +where. We asked the guide the location of the ford so that we could join +the other soldiers with the horses but we failed to do so because the +guide misled us. We slept at the junction of the San Jose and San +Joaquin rivers, one league apart, with no other incident. + +_21st day._ At nine o'clock in the morning we joined the troops with +the horses, killing on the way two deer to supply the troops, who were +without provisions. The day passed by and we decided to attack the +village mentioned previously at four o'clock the next morning. But we +did not carry out this plan because of a great stampede of the horses +at about ten o'clock in the evening. Even though all the troops were +mounted it was not possible to contain the stampede, because many +animals had scattered in numerous groups. At this misfortune the +Christian Indian from Santa Cruz, who had accompanied us through Kings +River, deserted us. He had seemed so devoted that we had released him +from his bonds so that he could better bear the hardships of the road. + +_22nd day._ This morning the horses were counted and sixty-five animals +were missing. Corporals Francisco Juarez, Antonio Olivera, Juan Arroyo, +and Encargado Jose Villavicencio, taking ten men [each] and Rivera with +four were ordered to go out in different directions. Juarez, going to +the east, found thirty-eight animals and had to kill one horse because +it was exhausted. Arroyo, who went to the south, brought the news that +the tracks led to the trail toward Soledad, but because it was late he +turned back. Villavicencio, who went to the north, reported that at a +distance of a league and a half there was a village. Near it was a mule, +one of those we had lost during the preceding night, and Villavicencio +had seen tracks of horses going down to drink. He saw some old Indians +coming toward the woods in which he was hidden, so he did not leave the +woods and did not catch the mule, in order to avoid being seen by the +old people. Olivera brought back no information. It was decided to +attack the village at dawn in case some of the inhabitants had remained +there. Nothing else to report. + +_23rd day._ This day we set out for the village mentioned, which, +according to information taken from Indian prisoners, we know to be +Tapee. After surrounding it on both sides of the river, we caught three +old Indian men, one Christian from Santa Cruz, together with eight old +women. Here we came upon two hundred and thirty-eight recently killed +animals, a great deal of meat quartered and dried, and sixteen live +animals, mares and riding horses, some shot with arrows and others very +badly treated. Most of these horses belong to Mission San Juan. The +heathen mentioned previously were asked where were the people of this +village. [The reply was that] first they had waited for us down the +river with three others who claimed that we were coming in search of +them, and then they had gone to the hills. A few of the people were +opposite the village in the woods. The troops went on foot to hunt for +them but found no one. + +The Christian was held captive and the old men, after being chastised, +were let loose. It was then decided that Corporal Arroyo should go right +away to follow the trail which he had abandoned the day before, taking +ten men with two mounts each. He was to return the following day with or +without the lost horses. Here the troops were provided with some dried +fish (although bad) and wild rice, with which they managed to pass the +two days we were in this locality. No other incident. + +_24th day._ Corporal Arroyo arrived about four o'clock in the afternoon +with the information that the horses had gone toward San Luis Gonzaga. +We decided to follow on our way. No other news. + +_25th day._ Today we continued with our expedition and at about seven +o'clock in the morning we arrived at the village of Cupicha, which we +found without inhabitants. (This village is in the meadow along the +river where the San Joaquin joins the Tecolote.) We inquired of the +heathen Indians whom we had with us and they told us the people had +moved to the mountains. + +We went westward and crossed the river. At this point Corporal Arroyo +was sent to follow up the tracks which he had relinquished the previous +day, and the place was specified where we were to meet. He took with him +four soldiers and two cowboys, who were to go to San Luis Gonzaga for +provisions. He also had orders that, if he found the trail going in that +direction, he should turn it over to Manuel Butron and that the latter +should continue on to the place mentioned and send back a sack of +pinole, which we had left in storage there, and two belonging to the +Father. At about seven o'clock in the evening Arroyo returned with the +information that he had turned over the trail to the said Butron. In +the morning three soldiers were incapacitated, Atenacio Mendoza, Jose +Soberanes, and Jose Espinoza, the first with a head-ache, the second +with a stomach-ache, and the third with a bad foot due to a fall from a +horse. Today six deer were caught, which were supplied to the troops. +During the night, which we spent on the arroyo San Jose, it rained on +us. No other incident. + +_26th day._ Early this morning soldiers Gabriel Espinoza and Jose +Arellanes were sick but those who were ill yesterday had recovered. +Three deer were taken. At about seven o'clock in the evening the party +arrived with the provisions. There was a fanega [of pinole] and it was +distributed among the troops. Butron reported that he followed the +tracks of the horses as far as the summit [of the coast range]. + +At about eight o'clock in the evening, soldier Joaquin Juarez being +the sentinel in the camp and Arroyo corporal of the guard, one of the +heathen Indian prisoners broke the rope with which he was tied and ran +away. Corporal [_sic_] Juarez yelled that the prisoner had escaped. The +troops converged upon the spot, a little tule swamp opposite us, but +were not able to find him. For this offense the corporal and the soldier +were placed under arrest among the horses until further orders. No other +incident. + +_27th day._ It was decided to attack the village of Malim. Leaving +fifteen soldiers, two corporals, and ten cowboys with the horses we set +out in the rain at one o'clock in the afternoon. We pursued a northerly +course. Arriving at the San Joaquin River we entered the village +Cheneche and found it without inhabitants. We kept on down the river +and at about three leagues we came upon foot tracks at the edge of a +thicket. A corporal with four soldiers went to examine the place and in +the middle [of the thicket] they found a blind old man and an old woman. +They [the soldiers] returned to report and were ordered to bring them +[the Indians] back for questioning; but they could not find the latter. +Here we passed the night with considerable discomfort on account of the +rain which had fallen on us during the afternoon. No other news. + +_28th day._ The morning of this day we continued in the same direction. +At about half a league we came upon the village of Cheneches,[12] where +two old women were found. It was clear that the other inhabitants had +gone on ahead of us, slipping into the thickets and swamps. In any case, +we were able to find no one. After about two leagues we arrived at the +junction of Mariposa Creek and the river. The guide whom we took with +us, who was from that village, had previously told us that he was +familiar with the village of Malim, but when he got there he said he did +not know where it was; but he did know that this was his country and we +were hunting for his village. I ordered him given ten lashes. While +this was being done, the soldiers spied some heathen who were coming +up Mariposa Creek. By scattering out in various directions the troops +succeeded in catching two Christians from Santa Cruz and three heathen. +The latter were to take us to the village but previously we encountered +one of their little ranchos. The inhabitants all fled to the swamps +without our being able to seize a single one. The village was located +at a distance of three leagues west. However, after we had passed it by +about a quarter of a league, they [the Indians] said it was behind us. +On arriving [at the village] we found by our trail that we had missed it +by no more than a gunshot. From this it was obvious that the captives +had acted with malice, giving opportunity to the others [their +countrymen] to escape. Here two horses and a very few tracks were +discovered. (According to the signs observed this village does not have +many horses, yet the region where it is known that the heathen have done +terrible damage is from Tappee, inclusive, to Cheneches. We found in +those places more than 500 dead animals.)[13] From here we retired to +Arroyo de Santa Rita where Corporal Juarez was sent with six soldiers +to join the other troops who were escorting the horses and proceed +the following day to San Luis Gonzaga.[14] Here it rained. No other +incident. + +_29th day._ We set out for San Luis Gonzaga, arriving about two o'clock +in the afternoon. Corporal Juarez got there about five o'clock, having +killed and left behind fourteen worn-out horses from among those picked +up in the swamps. The sick soldiers continued to recover. No other news. + +_30th day._ We set out from this place at about six o'clock in the +morning and arrived at Ausaymas at about five in the afternoon, leaving +in the vicinity seventy-eight used-up animals. Most of these had been +recovered from the Tulares and were killed. The others were brought to +this place with some difficulty at eight o'clock in the evening. Nothing +else of importance occurred. + +_1st day of December._ We stayed in the place previously mentioned in +order to rest the horses. Nothing else of importance. + +_2nd day._ We arrived at Mission San Juan with ten soldiers ill with +stomach ailments. No other news. + +_3rd day._ By morning the soldiers had recovered and we continued our +march to the Presidio, taking nine prisoners and sending the soldiers of +the guard to their respective garrisons. One soldier accompanied Father +Escude to his mission and another accompanied Father Cabot. + + Mission San Juan Bautista, Dolores Pico + 3 December 1815 (rubric) + + +FATHER MARTINEZ' EXPEDITION + +The following five documents, all in the Bancroft Library, show clearly +the confusion in the valley following the repeated expeditions of the +preceding years, particularly those of 1815. The first, second, and +third concern the Martinez sortie into the southern valley and include +in full the original account by Father Martinez and the drastic +criticism of his behavior by Father Cabot. The reader may form his +own opinion with respect to the merits of the controversy. + +The last two excerpts relate to minor and otherwise unrecorded +incidents. + +_Father Martinez' Report_ + + _Fr. Luis Antonio Martinez' to Prefect Sarria_ + San Luis Obispo, May 29, 1816 + (Alexander S. Taylor Papers. Archbishop's Office, + San Francisco. Doc. 489.) + +My venerated Prelate and Sir: + +I have just arrived from an ecclesiastical journey with good fortune, +although not so much as I was expecting. The people through whose lands +I have gone are not yet capable of reason, and prefer their state of +misery to all the benefits available to them far from their rude and +wretched dwellings. + +In all the villages I saw I gave something to eat to everyone who +presented himself; one, two, or even three ladles full of atole. I gave +them presents. I treated them with as much loving-kindness as I could so +as to mould them to my ultimate purpose, which was simply their own best +interest. + +The names of the villages are:[15] Lucluc, 28 leagues distant from the +mission, at the edge of the plain; from here I went to Thuohuala, about +9 leagues; from here to Gelecto, about 9; from here to Lihuahilame, +about 19; and from there to Quihuame, about 7. At this point we could +not cross a big river (the source of which we did not see) which runs +from north to south, and south to north. It makes a bend in the plain +some 7 leagues from Telame. Its speed and the dense brush along its +banks prevented our passage. It fills the lakes of Buenavista, of +Gelecto, and of Thuohuala. In all our trip we did not see a good tree, +nor wood enough to cook a meal, nor a stone, nor even grass enough for +the horses, more than bunch grass, or what grows in the swamps. This +big river ends as such in Buenavista Lake or loses itself in ponds and +swamps. Along all the border of the plain [i.e., along the river] there +is a great meadow a league wide, very heavily overgrown with brush. +However, the lands through which the river runs are pure sand, without +grass and utterly useless for any good purpose. + +In the first village, Lucluc, we found about fifty Indians with their +women and children. In this place they offered to bring me a small boy, +after much begging and persuasion, and after I had given his parents +two blankets, some ornaments, meat, etc. In the night the Indians sent +a message for the following day, and in the morning we met the Indian +Gabriel, as he was called by the soldiers, for he had gone with them +on all the previous expeditions. He, with six other heathen Indians, +accompanied us to the village of Thuohuala, which we found deserted +except for one old woman on a mat, and a paralytic, whom they could +not carry into the swamps. I was here three days, sending my Indians +on sorties through the tule swamps. They brought me back about ten +families, together with a sick man. The latter I ordered to be taken by +my Indians to his house, covered with a wrap. I gave the others atole, +making it clear that they should have no fear, that my trip was only for +the purpose of visiting them and offering them the facilities of San +Luis Mission together with the knowledge of the True God, without which +no one can live well or enjoy any good fortune. I told them they should +have no fear. + +With my arguments I was able to acquire some seventy men, all warriors, +but noticed that those whom I had taken out of the swamp during the +night had gone elsewhere. Of the seventy whom I gathered with the help +of the Indian Gabriel, no one ran away again. They ate and even slept +with us in our camp. I knew where the women and the others were and I +expressed the displeasure caused by seeing a friendly village run away +from us. They unanimously maintained that a certain Chape and other old +men were to blame for having spread the rumor that we wanted to kill +them all. Nevertheless he himself [i.e., Chape] gave me and the corporal +a little basket and we gave him some fish. During the time I was there, +I gave him, in addition to the food, some beads. After this transaction +I decided to continue my journey toward the village of Gelecto, where +we found no trace of people except the cemetery, because they had +destroyed the village in their wars. After spending the night here I +went on to Telamni. This consumed the whole day (without anyone having +a meal). Furthermore I had to endure showers falling on my back four +times during this period. + +Since we did not try to hide ourselves, the train of horses stirred up a +great dust visible for several leagues. As soon as I arrived at Telamni, +they observed us from Lihuahilami the Great. At that place there had +been a big riot the day previously, as a result of which some eight men +had been killed, among them the grandson of Quipagueces. For this reason +they were very much worried for fear the father would come to avenge the +murders. The chief sent me a message to inform me of this occurrence and +I answered that he should not be concerned for I did not come to do harm +to anyone nor [would I] permit anyone else to hurt them. I wanted only +to see them and offer them the services of the mission. This chief had +me summoned to request that I place the camp close to his village, which +would contain about three hundred married men. The next day I went into +it and everyone received us with pleasure. I talked to them of religious +matters and they said to me that [illegible][16] they were made +Christians, but that it had to be there. Three of them who wanted to +go with me presented themselves and they started out very happy. When +we reached the village of Quihuama, the chief, who already knew I was +coming, had hidden the people in the brush. While I was dismounting, he +had caused them to drop their clothing and flee to the thickets. In +consequence I was not able to speak to anyone. + +I was now about six leagues from Telame and was hemmed in by a big +river, which afforded no transit anywhere. It runs along the northern +side of the valley and forms a lake and swamps where the plain obstructs +its flow. I decided to turn back, for to persist in going on to Telame +would mean a long detour. So I went back, accomplishing the operation +without any event worth mentioning, as far as the village of our friends +at Thuohuala, called, in the language of San Miguel, Hubal. There we +found that the village had moved. Since on my first visit I had departed +on such good terms with these people, I was the more astonished at their +fickleness. I decided to send some Indians to let them know I was there +and that I would like to see them all together. They received these poor +fellows with arrows and, if the latter had not carried with them their +leather shields to defend themselves, not a one would have got back to +the camp (they were below Hubal at a village called Pusas). They quickly +sent word to me at the camp. The corporal and six men went out but found +no one there. My Indians did not use weapons against anyone and made no +more resistance than to seize arrows and take bows out of the hands of +those who were offending. They took three prisoners, two women and a +man, who, according to the story, were all yelling "Kill the Playanos!" +[Playanos, people from the coast.] The next day the village was burned +and everything in it destroyed because the people in it had taken up +arms against those who had treated them well. One Indian was slightly +wounded in the head; two horses were hit by arrows, one rather +seriously, and another stolen with the saddle, together with all those +from which the riders had dismounted in order to deliver my message.[17] +This village deserves severe punishment. + +In all the land we have covered there is neither good water to drink nor +stones nor firewood, even enough to cook a meal, except in the river +bottom. The latter is overgrown with cottonwoods and willows but there +is no land fit for sowing crops because everywhere is sand. + +The foregoing, my respected Prelate, is the information I have to give +you concerning my journey. I cannot forget that in all the time I was +away there was nothing but a miserable supper at night and chocolate in +the morning, that in the day I was weak and tired with traveling and in +the night, no matter what protection I used, I was soaking wet till +after my prayers. Nevertheless, may this all be for the greater honor +and glory of God, our Lord, who, with all these labors ... [illegible] +... arrived at San Luis.... + +May your health..., etc. + + This is a copy Fr. L. de Martinez + + +_Father Cabot's Report_ + + _Fr. Juan Cabot to Prefect_ + San Miguel, June 1, 1816 + (Archbishop's Arch., III (1): 213-216) + + He says[18] that when Father Luis [Martinez] was returning from the + village of Bubas he encountered six vaqueros whom he [i.e., Cabot] + was sending to the village mentioned to locate the cattle which had + reached there and to visit the heathen Indians. The said Father + [Martinez] told them to go back, for otherwise the Indians would + kill them. The vaqueros however kept on their way for "he who fears + nothing, owes nothing" [_el que nada teme, nada debe_]. They were + very well received and slept among them [the Indians] without + trouble. While [they were] there the Indians related to them that + the vaqueros of San Luis [i.e., those accompanying the Martinez + party] prior to arriving at the village, suddenly broke out in + violence along the edge of the tule swamps. They tried to stop the + people from escaping but, since that was not possible, they dragged + out all they could with lassos and ropes and drove them to the + village. In terror, many people, principally women and children, + tried to jump into the water. These were then held back with clubs + and the infants were thrown either into the water or onto the + ground. One youth they tied up and whipped and he still has the + wounds on his back. In spite of this the Indians undertook no + reprisals. Then one of them escaped into the swamp, whereupon he + was followed on foot and on horseback in an attempt to catch him. + + At this the chief could no longer keep in check the anger of the + Indians and they began to shoot arrows at those from San Luis, not + with the object of killing them but to make them retreat. In this + they succeeded, and the others began a wild flight, some on horses, + some on foot, even to one who "pulled off his pants so he could run + faster." They left their horses and harnesses. They [the villagers] + did not want to kill anyone. A prisoner whom they captured was set + free with the statement: "Go with your comrades for we do not want + to kill you." Afterward they carried out of the swamp all the + material they had captured so that the other group could pick it up + when they returned, as indeed they did the following day. There were + lost only two horses, one shield, a hat, spurs, reins, and a pair of + trousers; the latter was found after the troops had gone. All these + items were turned over to the vaqueros [of Father Cabot] so that + they might deliver them to the people of San Luis. Nevertheless the + Indians said that the troops had burned their village, scattered + their grain, and smashed their jars and grinding stones. On account + of all this they were in a state of the greatest misery and fear + lest the troops come back and kill them. Unless they were told what + to do within a week, they would have to leave their village to go + and die at the hands of other wild Indians. + + He [Father Cabot] states that tomorrow he is going to send an + alcalde to them to tell them not to be afraid and to trust the pious + efforts of the Governor. He thinks those heathen are not at all to + blame, judging by the docility, hospitality, kindness, and affection + with which they treat the white men. His mission converts visit them + without any harm and they also are accustomed to go to the mission, + where he is then successful in baptizing some of them. The heathen + say that if a mission were to be established for them, in the Tulare + Valley, not only they but also many of their neighbors would have + themselves made Christians. Finally, if the wild Indians shot + arrows, it was in the exercise of their rights, for they were + defending themselves against the annoyances perpetrated upon them. + He [Father Cabot] believes that unless the Governor "is made + acquainted with the truth, he may order them chastised, and for + that very reason he begs that the matter be brought speedily to + his attention." + + +_Father Martinez' Rebuttal_ + + _Fr. Luis Antonio Martinez to the Governor_ + San Luis Obispo, June 10, 1816 + (Archbishop's Archive, III (1): 218-220) + +This is an answer to the charges raised by Father Juan Cabot concerning +the affair at Bubal. There are no new facts introduced, merely a polemic +against his unjust accusers and a reiteration that he proceeded +correctly and that the heathen were full of malice. + + +MINOR SORTIES + + _Fr. Antonio Jaime to Governor Sola_ + La Soledad, March 30, 1816 + (Archbishop's Archive, III (1): 190-191) + + ... telling him that last night Regidor Socio arrived from the + Tulare Valley.[19] He brought back the missing Christians with the + exception of three women and their husbands, one because she had + just given birth to a child and the other two because their children + were sick. Three others are still missing, named Marcos, Pastor, and + Justo. These are at the village of Cuonam where there are numerous + horses run off by Sebero and Pedro Pablo from the herd of San Juan. + These same individuals in the night ran off twenty horses of the + herd recovered by Socio and the _Capilar_ Tape. Three _capilares_ + arrived, one Tape of the village Cutuchu, another Thizac of Tache, + and the other Qucurlac of Culache.[20] The heathen are in all + thirty-three. The _capilares_ want to go on to Monterey with the + heathen Indians to talk to the Governor. + + After Easter the latter will return with them. They brought back + ten horses lost on the expedition and turned them over to Corporal + Sebastian. + + + _Fr. Marcelino Marquinez to Governor Sola_ + Santa Cruz, December 13, 1816 + (Archbishop's Archive, III (1): 264-265) + + ... notifying him [the Governor] of the pleasure he had, yesterday + and day before yesterday, because some forty sons of his mission + who had run away returned. They are natives of the villages of + Malime,[21] Chaneh, and Lucham. With them came others, heathen + (men and women) of Malime. That village has now been abandoned + permanently, for they have "left neither old men nor old women, nor + blind, nor deaf, nor dogs," nor is there anything to cause them to + return. Some of them went to the village of Tasnil looking for a + Christian boy whose relatives had previously taken him there. The + searchers were told that he was in a village farther on. There now + began a lively battle in which the Christians killed four heathen + and took away from them two horses, one from Rancho Carmel and one + from the town. + + The pleasure of Father Jaime is great but his happiness has not been + complete because there are still missing many Christians from the + village of Notoalh who have withdrawn far into the mountains, + fearing a surprise attack by the troops, among whom is Egidio, + the accomplice of Chivero.... + + +EXPEDITION TO THE DELTA, 1817 + +There follow herewith the two documents relating to the joint expedition +to the delta in 1817. This was the final purely exploratory effort in +the area. By 1820 most of the channels and landmarks were well known and +river navigation offered few obstacles. By this time the Indians, except +those along the eastern margin from Sacramento to Stockton, had been +converted or driven out and little remained to interest the white man. + +_Father Narciso Duran's Diary. 1817_ + +This manuscript of six pages is entitled "Diario de la expedicion de +reconocimiento hecha ... en los ... rios del Sacramento y San Joaquin." +It is the diary of exploration of the delta region by Fr. Narciso Duran +and Lieutenant Luis Arguello. The two explorers started out together but +later separated and still later reunited. Each kept an account, this one +being that of Father Narciso. It should be studied in conjunction with +that of Lieutenant Arguello. There are many points of disagreement which +cannot be discussed in detail. + +It is to be noted that Father Fray Ramon Abella accompanied Father Duran +on this expedition. + + +Diary of the expedition of reconnaissance made to the rivers Sacramento +and San Joaquin. + +_Viva Jesus._ + +Diary of the expedition of exploration made in the month of May of 1817 +by the Commandant of the Royal Presidio of our Father San Francisco, +Lieutenant Don Luis Arguello, with his launch San Rafael, alias "The +Fine One," and by the Fathers Fray Ramon Abella, minister of the Mission +of Our Father of San Francisco, and Fray Narciso Duran, minister of San +Jose, with the launch named San Jose, alias "The Fisherman," in the only +two rivers which enter the Port of Our Father San Francisco, called the +Sacramento and the San Joaquin. + +_13th day of May._ We left the beach at the Presidio at ten o'clock in +the morning of this day with a fresh wind, which lasted until we had +crossed the entrance of the port. By rowing we arrived at twelve o'clock +at the big island of Los Angeles [Angel Island], where we ate lunch. At +five o'clock in the afternoon we left the island, and having passed +Point San Pablo, which is on the side of the mainland of San Jose, we +stopped at eight o'clock in the evening, having gone in the entire day +six leagues toward the northeast. + +_14th day._ We set out at six o'clock in the morning, and with a light +wind we arrived at noon at the end of the strait of the Chupcanes [i.e., +Carquinez Strait]. The village of this name is Christian, part at San +Jose, part at San Francisco. It is fourteen leagues distant from the +latter and seventeen leagues north-northeast of the former. + +After lunch we set out with a fresh wind, which became strong by the +middle of the afternoon, in the direction of the Ompines toward the +east. In this area one recognizes the mouths of the only two rivers +which flow through this strait to the Port: one comes from the north +and northeast and is called the Sacramento, the other from the east +and southeast and is called the San Joaquin. I say they are the only +two rivers, for it seems that the many openings and branches which form +so many islands of brush and tulares, as well also as some other rivers +which are found here, all come to discharge their water into the two +rivers mentioned. Thus although the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada +form certain rivers, as has been stated, nevertheless all of them lose +their identity and are lost in the two principal rivers just described. + +In the meantime, night having approached and the boat of the Commandant +having gone ahead, he stopped on the mainland of San Jose at the mouth +of the San Joaquin. We two Fathers in the other boat followed the route +agreed upon, and took the mouth of the Sacramento so as to reach the +opposite shore in the land of the Ompines. However, although we passed +near the other boat and saw their fire, it was not possible to go back +on account of the high wind. We landed on an island of tule which was +flooded when the tide rose and had to take refuge in a bramble patch to +protect ourselves against the water until it went down. We spent a very +difficult night, although cheerfully, and a no better one was passed by +the Commandant, for, although with us it was water without fire, with +him it was wind without shelter. + +All this day we went twelve leagues northeast and east. + +_15th day._ The storm lasted all night. At five o'clock in the morning +the Commandant arrived to join us. He got here with the main mast broken +but, the Lord be thanked, without greater misfortune. It seems almost +a miracle that when it fell it did not break someone's head or kill +someone. We set out soon to search for a place suitable for saying Mass, +for this was the day of the Ascension. Having gone five or six leagues +up the Sacramento ahead of the same wind, we landed on dry land, where +Mass was said. But because this place was very exposed and cold we set +forth after lunch, in the middle of the afternoon, and arrived by dark +at the end of the hills of the Ompines, the latter serving us as a +shelter from the storm.[22] This place is called "Los Ciervos." About a +league before getting there the launch San Jose struck a submerged log, +which scared us. However, on later examination, no damage was found, +thank God! We went in this day eight leagues east and northeast.[23] + +_16th day._ The storm from the northwest continued all night and at dawn +left the sky covered with heavy clouds and almost raining. We left under +a light breeze at eight o'clock in the morning, going northeast. At the +end of a league we came to an opening to the starboard, which led to the +east. This is said to be a bend in the main river. If that were true, +then we would know that this river is the one which encircles the Island +of the Quenemsias. We followed a branch which runs toward the north +and northwest, with the intention of investigating the village of the +Chucumnes. At the end of another league we encountered another opening, +or arm, to port, which at first seemed to us to lead to the village +mentioned. Nevertheless we left this opening and continued along the +branch we had been following. We saw during this morning some boats with +people and some houses empty of people, because at the noise of the +launches they cleared out. At six leagues we reached another opening +to the starboard, running northeast. Either the latter or the one +previously mentioned is that which forms the main Sacramento River. We +passed by the latter and kept along the same one we had been navigating. +The whole river is made a great grove by the number and luxuriance +of the trees, although only with difficulty can one get to shore. +Everything is flooded owing to the rise in the rivers caused by the +melting of the snow pack [in the mountains]. We stopped at six o'clock +in the afternoon, having rowed eight leagues to the north, northeast, +and occasionally northwest.[24] + +_17th day._ All night the wind blew hard. We set out at six o'clock +in the morning. After one league we came upon the opening which we +passed yesterday on our left hand. A little while afterward we found +the village of the Chucumnes, although it was deserted. We counted +35 houses, some 20, 40, or 50 paces in circumference, a fact which +indicates a large number of people. We called to the heathen but no one +appeared. This village is in a place where the river subdivides into +three other branches. One goes to the south, which is the one I say we +passed yesterday on the left, another goes to the west but we do not +know where it ends, although it is supposed that, making a turn to the +southwest, it goes to join the southerly branch. The other goes north. + +Having eaten we started again at two o'clock in the afternoon and took +the branch to the north. The great meadow of yesterday still continues +and both banks are flooded. At six o'clock we stopped opposite a slough +which is said to lead to the village of the Ylamnes. We went during the +entire day no more than four leagues, because the river flows with a +strong current. The direction today has been northwest, north, and +northeast.[25] + +_18th day._ After having said Mass, since it was Sunday, we set out in +the same direction upstream, northeast. At the end of a league (which +cost us much labor to cover on account of the great force of the +current) we entered the main Sacramento River which runs from north +to south. It is the same one we left on the 6th to the right hand, or +starboard, although I cannot decide which of the two channels it was, +whether the first or the last. We kept on up the river, which is very +wide and of great depth, and at half a league we stopped to eat. Hardly +had we finished eating when suddenly our people became very much +excited, saying that the heathen Indians were coming to annoy us. But +no one appeared. We started out again at two o'clock in the afternoon. +After going a league we found an opening to the right which makes a turn +and joins the river again two leagues upstream.[26] About five o'clock +we descried the well-known Sierra Nevada to the northeast through a +clearing in the trees which border the river. The whiteness of the +mountains seemed to everyone to be snow, although the range contains +also (as is said) a kind of white rock which resembles the latter [i.e., +snow]. We kept on a little farther up and stopped at sunset, having gone +in the day some five leagues northeast, north, and northwest.[27] + +_19th day._ We started at seven o'clock in the morning and continued +upstream. After going one league we came upon a village called Chuppumne +on the east bank, the inhabitants of which fled at the sound of the +boats, leaving only two old women more than sixty years old. After +catechizing these, I baptized them because it seemed to us that they +were likely to die before Divine Providence could provide another +occasion upon which they might be baptized in a mission. We left this +village at ten o'clock and stopped to eat at noon. We started out again +at two o'clock in the afternoon and in the distance saw two villages +with people and another, for some time abandoned and covered with +water. The river is very high and so flooded on both sides that one +can scarcely get ashore. We stopped at sunset having during the day +traveled ten leagues north and northwest.[28] + +_20th day._ We started up the river at six o'clock in the morning with +the intention of finding an open spot where a cross might be set up, and +where we might cease our ascent of the river, turn around, and retreat +downstream. After three leagues, when the launches were close to the +western shore, some rafts were noticed in a near-by tule swamp. On going +to investigate these some [of our Indian] converts came upon a village +of heathen, who fell upon them with weapons and with the ferocious +screams to which they are accustomed. Quickly the Commandant went with +the troops and the other converts to talk to them. They were pacified +and explained themselves, saying that they had taken up arms thinking +that we were enemies. They presented us with _torous_, which is a kind +of roasted soap root, and came in peace, telling us that a little higher +up was their village and that there they would wait for us in order to +give us fish. We had our meal and then set out, going a league higher +up. But we did not encounter or see a village or a heathen Indian except +a poor old man, sleeping under a tree, who had not yet heard our boats. +We gave him some pinole and sent him on his way. Seeing that no one +was coming, we made a cross on an oak tree. The cross having been +consecrated and worshiped by our company, served to mark the limit of +our upward journey. At this place it appears to be possible to approach +by land in the dry season, because although in the immediate vicinity +tules are to be seen, nevertheless probably everything is dry by October +for there is no water other than the overflow from the river. It is +therefore to be supposed that from here on it is better to follow the +course of the river by land than by water. In this manner the immense +expanse of land may be explored which extends to the end of the Sierra +Nevada and which likely is inhabited by innumerable heathen. Once the +entrance to the Sierra is discovered, which the end seems to offer as a +probability, it would be possible to test the truth of the story which +the Indians have told for many years that on the other side of the +Sierra Nevada there are people like our soldiers. We have never been +able to decide definitely whether they are Spaniards from New Mexico, +Englishmen from the Columbia, or Russians from Bodega. + +From here we could make out at about ten leagues northwest the very high +hill called Jesus Maria by the troops who have passed near its slopes. +It is entirely covered with snow.[29] It is said that near by flows a +large river of the same name which enters the Sacramento River, and it +is to be suspected that it is a branch of the Columbia. This I heard +from some soldier, and it may be true. We went upstream today four +leagues north and northwest. + +At four o'clock in the afternoon we began to descend, and at sunset we +stopped on the west bank opposite the place where we stopped on the +18th, having gone fourteen leagues in three or four hours on account +of the great force of the current. The direction is south and +southeast.[30] + +_21st day._ We set out at seven o'clock in the morning and in a little +while encountered on the right hand the slough through which on the 18th +we entered the main river. Leaving the latter and following the former +[i.e., the main river, to the left], after one league we came to a +rancheria called that of the Ochejamnes, which had forty houses but no +people. A little while thereafter we passed the head of the Island of +the Quenemsias.[31] Here we left the main Sacramento River, which runs +to the southwest, on the right hand and took a channel to the southeast +at the entrance to which in the year ... the heathen Indians murdered +Julio, the alcalde of San Jose. The launches got through with effort on +account of the many logs in the channel. At six leagues we came upon +the village of the Guaypens, with a few people, where we baptized seven +souls, all aged, invalids, or children. Here we had lunch and, having +started again at three o'clock in the afternoon, we stopped at the place +called "Las Cruces." It was our intention on the next day to reach the +San Joaquin River and ascend it as far as the village of the Passasimas. +We went in all today fifteen leagues, south and southeast.[32] + +_22nd day._ We set out at seven o'clock in the morning and, shortly +after reaching the end of the branch, or slough, in which we were +traveling yesterday, we found another coming in from the northeast on +the left side. We passed this and followed south and southeast through +a very broad channel which leads to the San Joaquin River. Here the +launches separated. That of the Commandant directed its way to the west +and northwest in order to reconnoitre two or three islands in which are +living hidden some fugitives from San Jose. We with the other launch, +took a south and southeasterly direction, ascending the San Joaquin +River, with the intention of scouting the villages of the tule swamps. +At four o'clock we halted in a very muddy spot on account of the extreme +heat, which was exhausting the oarsmen. We started out again at six +o'clock with the idea of traveling all night. + +_23rd day._ We went all night, except for a while during which we +stopped in the boat itself, and at eight o'clock [in the morning] we +arrived near the village of the Passasimas. During the night we passed +on our right the village of the Nototemnes, who are already Christians +in San Jose and who were living almost in the middle of the tule swamps. +On the left hand we passed the Tauquimnes and Yatchicomnes and on the +same side live the Passasimas previously mentioned. A little to the +northeast of these are the Mokelumnes. Some of the Passasimas came out +to greet us in peace. This is not strange because they have been many +times in the mission [San Jose] and several of them have been baptized. +After breakfast we went on foot to visit some of their houses, where +I baptized four heathen sixty or seventy years of age. Then, having +commended them to God and having pointed out the necessity that they +consider being made Christians, we returned to the boat, accompanied by +the Indians. Here they told us again the story of how, on the other side +of the Sierra Nevada (from which we were perhaps ten leagues distant) +there were white men. But no definite conclusions could be reached, as +was set forth on May 20. + +At four o'clock in the afternoon we embarked, returning by the same way +we had come. In a short distance 113 heathen Indians were waiting for +us, Yatchicomnes and Mokelumnes. Half of them were painted and armed as +for war. We approached, and after we had talked to them they put down +their weapons and begged for peace. These heathen live mostly on solid +ground and they could be visited on horseback if this became necessary. +They penetrate to the slopes of the Sierra Nevada and state that the +whiteness one sees is rock and not snow. However, it is most probable +that the Sierra has both snow and white rock which resembles it. At +six o'clock we bade them farewell, giving them some wheat, etc. They +promised us that they would come and make a visit to the mission. During +yesterday and the previous night we must have covered eleven or twelve +leagues toward the south and southeast. We traveled hard all night, +going north and northwest.[33] + +_24th day._ At dawn we found ourselves on approximately the same +parallel as that where we were at the start of the trip of the 22nd. At +eight o'clock we arrived at the place called "Los Meganos"[34] opposite +the Julpunes. Here we ate breakfast. At noon we started out to meet the +Commandant in the Strait of the Chupcanes [Carquinez Strait], which we +reached at six o'clock in the afternoon. There we met the gentleman +mentioned, he having got there in the morning. The region traversed +this afternoon is the mouth of the San Joaquin, and it must be crossed +at high tide because it contains a shoal on which boats run aground. +The difference noticed between the Sacramento River and the San Joaquin +is that the latter carries a smaller volume of water, although in some +places it is wider. All that we have passed is nothing but pure tule +swamp, without a tree under which the wanderer will find shade or +a stick of wood with which to warm himself. On the other hand, the +Sacramento, when it is not flooded, has dry land on both banks, with +groves of trees as before described, and seems to carry a greater +volume of water. We covered during the preceding night and during +the day twenty leagues north, northwest, and west. + +_25th day._ At dawn of this day of the Pentecost Mass was sung and +thereafter again the Praefacio so that during the next two days Mass +should not be lacking. We set out at nine o'clock with a headwind. It +was quite hard navigating through the whole strait, which will be about +two leagues long and one half, more or less, wide. After leaving the +strait the sea was fair and at three o'clock in the afternoon we arrived +at a place called Olegario Point near Angel Island. Here we stopped +after having traveled some ten leagues toward the southwest. + +_26th day._ At two o'clock in the morning, before the tide had finished +going out, we passed the narrow entrance of the harbor, arriving almost +by dawn at the beach of the Presidio. After having said Mass at the +latter place we returned to the Mission of Our Father San Francisco with +all good fortune, thanks to the Lord, to whom be the Glory forever and +ever, Amen. + + Fr. Narciso Duran + (rubric) + + +_Luis Arguello's Report_ + +The second report of the expedition to the delta is a document whose +title page states that it is a letter to the Governor, Don Pablo Vicente +de Sola, and "incorporates" a diary of the expedition, which was "in +company with Frays Narciso Duran and Ramon Abella." The account is +signed by Luis Antonio Arguello and was undoubtedly written by him. The +style indicates that the letter incorporates a revision or abstract of +Arguello's diary rather than an actual copy of it (see the introduction +to the letter). + +The existence of two accounts of the same expedition is unusual--indeed, +unique. Despite personal controversies the two narratives complement +each other. Each brings out detail omitted by the other. + + _Luis Antonio Arguello to Governor Pablo Vicente de Sola_ + San Francisco, May 26, 1817 + +Consequent upon the orders which I received officially from you on April +11, ultimo, I accompanied the Reverend Father Fray Narciso Duran on the +expedition which at the request of the said Reverend Father Duran you +authorized, and which was carried out. His diary, although I have +abstracted it in brief form so that you may take into consideration all +the distance we have covered, you will nevertheless use, as appears most +convenient to you for the purposes you have in mind. We explored these, +and other lands which up till the present have been considered unknown, +swarming with heathen who are overwhelmed with error and who are without +the least knowledge of God, who has placed us under the conquering +banner of the most Catholic and pious monarch of all those who rule +in our universe, our dearly beloved sovereign and Lord, Ferdinand the +Seventh. This is with the sole object of propagating our holy religion +and for which pious purpose I am ready to sacrifice my comfort and my +life and all the power of my mind. + +With regard to this expedition which has just been completed, +although you intended, as I understood according to the content of +your eminent official letter, that outstanding results were to be +expected, nevertheless in my opinion although the outcome was in no way +unfavorable, neither was it of much value. Despite the fact that I had +wished at least to make a careful survey and compile a detailed account +I found myself completely prevented from accomplishing this. The reason +was that I soon saw myself unable to direct my own going and coming. In +consequence, since I was not able to operate according to my own wishes +so as to give Your Excellency an exact account of all those lands and +heathen tribes, I declined to formulate a document which could at any +time be protested as defective for lack of exact and fully detailed +examination of the country. I did nothing else but go where the Reverend +Father Fray Narciso Duran wanted to go, and since my orders specified +only that I should accompany him it seemed to me, in order to maintain +harmonious relations, that I had to follow the desires of the Reverend +Father mentioned. I felt that this was your intention and wish, for the +expedition was organized upon the request of the said Reverend Father +Duran. Thus, although I curbed my propensity to explore, it seemed to me +proper to compose a day-by-day account, of which I make an exact +copy.[35] + +We started out, then, on the 13th day of the present month, between +eleven and twelve o'clock in the morning and traveled to the north for +twenty-one miles. We anchored for the night at Point San Pablo at eight +o'clock. After an hour the launch "Josefina" of our convoy joined us, +carrying the Reverend Fathers Fray Ramon Abella and Fray Narciso Duran. + +The following day, the 14th, we set sail at six o'clock in the morning +to the north and after going through Carquinez Strait we pointed east, +one quarter northeast. The wind freshened considerably as the sun went +down and the launch "Josefina" of our convoy fell behind so that it +became necessary for me to shorten sail. Since even this did not permit +them to catch up, we had to anchor at the strait which separates the +bays of Suisun and of the Ompines and wait until the launch "Josefina" +came up much later. As soon as it joined us we set out again. I ordered +sail shortened as much as I could, but the wind freshened considerably +so that soon the other launch fell behind again. Our launch suddenly ran +aground on a shoal half a mile distant from the mainland on the side of +Mission San Jose. However, we started again soon and by sounding we came +upon the channel, which had sufficient water and which followed closely +the same shore. While engaged in this operation, we were joined again by +the "Josefina" which, according to the signs they made, had been heading +toward the shore. We followed along the shore and by dark we saw that +the launch "San Jose" had again fallen far behind. The night fell and +the wind was quite strong, with consequently considerable swell. I held +closer to the shore in order to search for some kind of shelter. This +we found and anchored at half-past eight in the evening. Immediately I +caused signals to be made to the other launch so that it might join us +but without success. So, without much regard to comfort, I maintained my +position until three o'clock in the morning of the following day. In +this day we traveled sixty miles.[36] + +At three o'clock in the morning of the 15th, as I have said, in spite of +the strong wind I made arrangements to start out in search of the launch +"San Jose" and, after we had traveled toward the north with a quite +strong southwesterly gale and in a heavy sea, a gust of wind came so +strong that it broke off the mainmast. It carried the sail and all the +gear into the water. At the same time the sheets of the foremast were +lost. However, by a sharp maneuver we made fast the sheets of the +foremast and recovered the mainsail, which had gone into the water with +a piece of the mast. We continued navigating with the foremast alone +toward the north. There was no other misfortune than that just described +of a broken mainmast, and [the loss of] the hat of a soldier which in +the flurry fell into the water and could not be recovered on account of +the high wind and waves. + +At six o'clock in the morning we caught sight of the launch "San Jose," +which had taken shelter at a very swampy island full of water. Half an +hour after we descried them we joined them and found the Reverend +Fathers and the soldiers who were embarked with them. They were in a +very sad and pitiful situation for all night they had been unable to +find a hand's breadth of land on which to lie down. After they had +related the miseries and fatigues of the preceding night, both Fathers +transferred to my boat. We then turned northeast, close to the coast of +the Ompines, in search of another and better shelter where we might +anchor and land in order to say Mass. The wind did not abate its fury +and in this fashion we sailed eighteen miles. Having taken an entrance +to the main Sacramento River, we stopped in the land of the Ompines at +ten-thirty in the morning and constructed a chapel, where Mass was sung +in all solemnity. Reverend Father Fray Ramon Abella celebrated Mass and +Reverend Father Fray Narciso Duran officiated with appropriate music, +the troops all being under arms. + +At half-past five in the afternoon of this day we embarked, going toward +the north, with a few turns to the northeast, according to the bends +of the river. We may have traveled eleven miles when we anchored at +half-past eight at the point where the land of the Ompines ends, having +skirted its shore all day.[37] + +At seven o'clock in the morning of the 16th we set forth up the river +always in a northerly direction with a few turns east-northeast and +northwest. At five miles we passed a mouth, or arm, of the river which +came from the northeast and joined that along which we were traveling, +which runs north and south. Three miles farther on we descried some +rafts of Indians, who immediately concealed themselves in the bushes +along the riverbank. Right away we attacked them and jumped ashore +to see if we could catch some, but the underbrush hindered us, for +everything is covered with water and we could not follow them. They +threw away all their equipment and belongings, but none of it was of +value. We soon reembarked and followed upstream. At two miles we saw +another river, which united with that which we were pursuing and which +came from the northwest. We wanted to enter and explore it, but the +Reverend Fathers did not wish to do this, so we continued following the +same stream and halted at six o'clock in the afternoon. In the entire +day we navigated fifteen miles without incident. + +At six-thirty in the morning of the 17th we started up the river and at +three miles we found an opening which separated from the river we were +following and ran to the northwest. Suddenly we came upon a village on +the west bank of the river. We thought it might contain some people +and with great care we went ashore. However, we found it empty of its +inhabitants, for all without doubt had fled as soon as they saw us. This +village consists of thirty-six houses or huts of tule matting. After +making some inquiries as to whether we might be able to catch and talk +to any of the heathen, and being unsuccessful, we set sail. We followed +a bend of the river to the northeast, passing by the mouth of the other +channel, which separates here and runs to the northwest; the latter +seems to me to be the one which we left behind us yesterday and which +turns so as again to unite with the main stream of the river. We stopped +at seven o'clock in the evening at a ruined village, at the end of the +northeasterly bend of the river which from this point trends toward the +east. We will have traveled during the whole day no more than seven +miles. The current flows very rapidly because of the quantity of water +carried by the river, which is at a very high level. + +At ten-thirty in the morning of the 18th, after having heard Mass +celebrated by the Reverend Father Fray Narciso Duran, we set out, +following the bend of the river to the east, and at two miles we +observed that the river on which we are traveling is a branch of the +main Sacramento River, which here separates and takes a northwesterly +direction. It gives off the opening, or slough, which we left behind +yesterday and continues northwest, as I have said. The channel which we +pursued makes a turn to the south and thus goes on to unite with the +other channel and flow into the Bay of the Ompines. + +At the bend and at the point where we rejoin the main Sacramento River, +as stated, it contained a much greater quantity of water and has greater +width. It here flows north and south. Here we saw two little rafts, +which fled downstream at full speed, and we could not see where they +went because our view was cut off by the bend of the river we were +following. We went on northward and two miles beyond, where we joined +the main channel of the Sacramento River, we stopped at twelve o'clock +noon. While I was having lunch here with the Reverend Fathers, I was +told that many armed heathen were coming to meet us and were ready to +attack us. I immediately ordered the troops to prepare for them but +they did not arrive, nor could I see them. So it seemed to me to be an +exaggeration on the part of the Indian sailors, who, with their little +courage and in terror at seeing themselves in a land swarming with so +many heathen Indians, thought we must be ambushed since we were so +exposed. I ordered sentinels to be sent on ahead in all directions to +advise me of any advance on the part of the heathen, for the terrain was +very favorable to them. This was because of the very dense thickets and +the immense tule swamps, all submerged and covered with water, which +have extended as far as we have come. + +We stayed here until four o'clock, after which we started out and +continued up the river until dark when we stopped. We may have covered +this day sixteen miles, without incident. + +At six o'clock on the morning of the 19th we started up the river toward +the north, with an occasional turn east, northeast, or northwest. At +eight o'clock in the morning, having gone about three miles, we descried +several little rafts, which by rowing hid themselves along the northwest +bank of the river. Suddenly we noticed a village to the east, some three +hundred paces from the riverbank. We landed with every precaution, for +we perceived that there were people there. Although we were held up by +a slough which branches from the river itself and passes between the +latter and the village, we got across on the shoulders of the Indian +sailors. When we reached the village, its inhabitants had already +escaped into the underbrush and the tule swamps. Only two old and very +feeble women were to be found, who, after being preached to, were +baptized by the Reverend Father Fray Narciso Duran. After giving them +a few beans and peas, I instructed them to tell their chiefs and other +people of the village that on their return they should wait for us +there. I said that they should not desert their houses, that we would +make them gifts, and that we would visit them without doing any harm to +them. Having thus convinced them [the old women], we left them in +the village. Following our course, we noticed that the heathen were +appearing in crowds along the riverbank, without doubt at the news of +our boats. We stopped at seven o'clock in the evening, having sailed +during this entire day about twenty-eight miles. + +At six o'clock in the morning of the 20th we set out up the river, no +doubt at the insistence of the Reverend Father Fray Ramon Abella, for +already on the afternoon of the previous day, the Reverend Father Fray +Narciso wanted to turn back. Although I regretted it, I did not find it +advisable to continue farther upstream. Although we were already seeing +the Sierra Nevada and my desire was to reach it, carefully examine the +river in the interior of the range, discover the direction it has at its +exit, and at least get acquainted with the lands and heathen population +which would be encountered before reaching the mountains, nevertheless I +supported the request of the said Reverend Father Duran in order not to +oppose his desire to return. + +We sailed on up the river five miles to the north. With the intention of +setting up a cross the said Reverend Father Fray Ramon went ashore here +with a corporal and four soldiers and went to hunt a place suitable for +placing it. I stayed in the boat, but in a little while I was told that +some heathen Indians had been descried. I immediately ordered them to be +followed to see if a few could not be caught and brought back without +hurting them. However, soon a second message was returned to me that +the heathen were coming in considerable numbers to attack us. I quickly +landed, leaving four soldiers in charge of the boats. I, with the rest, +went toward them [the Indians] and reached the point where the corporal +and soldiers were who had gone with Father Ramon. They were awaiting +the Indians, who were approaching under arms. As soon as we had all +reassembled, we advanced on them, but they had not the courage to +attack us or even to maintain the position they were holding, because +immediately they retreated to find shelter in a thicket at their rear. +As for ourselves, we halted because we were held up by the deep water +in a slough that intersects with the river itself. The heathen did not +cease to hurl their insults. Then I sent the interpreters to approach a +little closer but so that the heathen would not be offended and fire at +them, having previously instructed the interpreters what they should +say. + +Seeing that nothing could be accomplished [in this manner], I resolved +to go closer myself and, with Sergeant Soto, I left the rest of the +troops in the position they occupied with instructions that if we were +attacked, they were to advance. We went toward the Indians, I and Soto, +and, carried on the shoulders of the Christian Indians, we got within +fifty paces of them. Although I wanted to get closer, the deep water +at that point prevented us. Nevertheless, I continued talking to them +through interpreters, saying that it was my intention not to do them +harm unless they did something first. They apologized but did not lay +down their arms. + +Thus I stayed for an hour. After a lot of yelling and insults we decided +that we would wait for them in their village and that they would not +abandon it. It was found to be a matter of two miles by boat from +where we had left them to the place where their village was situated. +I quickly went back and embarked. Having gone upstream, we reached the +parallel of the village, which was situated about four hundred paces +northwest of the bank, and did not encounter its inhabitants, for they +had all run away. Nor could we reach it on account of the great amount +of water in the intervening space, for the river was flowing at a very +high level. I sent some Indians but they brought back only a decrepit +old man, who had hidden himself because he could not follow the others +in their flight. He was given a present and sent off. + +I wanted much to stay here until the following day but the irritation +shown by the Reverend Father Fray Narciso Duran, who wanted to turn +around, determined me to accede to his wishes and retreat, although with +inward misgivings. The Reverend Father Fray Ramon Abella improved the +time by constructing a cross, which he blessed with solemnity and which +we worshiped with much devotion. This place was given the name of San +Bernardino, whose day our Holy Mother Church was celebrating. At five +o'clock in the afternoon of this day we turned around and took a +southerly direction downstream. The boats traveled with great speed +with the current. We stopped to camp for the night without having +noticed anything of particular interest. + +This river, as measured in its narrowest part, is 200 varas wide and 7, +8, and 10 brazas deep. + +On the following day, the 21st, we started out on the same route +downstream. A few isolated villages were encountered, their inhabitants +gone, which the soldiers reconnoitred. I did not see them, nor did I +want to go ashore, but in the village where the two old women who +had been baptized were left, the soldiers were told that it had been +abandoned by the natives, after they had destroyed the houses. Such +is the fear that fills the breasts of these unfortunate heathen. At +ten-thirty o'clock in the morning we left the main stream of the +Sacramento, which makes a turn here and runs to the northwest, and took +a branch which here cuts off from the big river and runs southward. +After having sailed along this branch for five miles, we suddenly came +upon a village of the heathen, situated on the east bank of the branch, +or slough. All the Indians ran away, hiding themselves in the brush and +tule swamps. It was possible to gather up only a few women and children +of both sexes and nine buck Indians. This was with much effort, for the +troops had to wade through the water at places up to their waist, and +passage was entirely prevented by the mud. The reverend fathers occupied +themselves by baptizing some feeble old women and another woman, who was +seen to be seriously ill. As soon as the reverend fathers had finished +I made a short speech to the Indians and left them in their village. We +continued sailing until six o'clock in the afternoon when we stopped +at the confluence of this slough and the River San Joaquin. The latter +comes down from the southeast and joins the River of the Holy Sacrament +so as to form the bays of the Tulpunes, Ompines, and Chupucanes. From +here the two rivers, in one body, discharge through the Strait of the +Karquines so as to empty into the Bay of San Francisco. + +On the 22nd the Reverend Father Fray Narciso decided to ascend the San +Joaquin River in order to visit a rancheria called Pasasimes. Together +with Sergeant Soto I obtained information concerning the situation of +this village and the condition of the Indians living in it, with the +purpose of going in another direction in case there was no fear of an +attack by the heathen. The said Soto told me that in the region in which +this village is situated there was no cause for apprehension, that +the Indians of this village went often to Mission San Jose and that +they were very docile. Nevertheless I gave the necessary orders and +instructions for him, with seven soldiers, to accompany the Reverend +Father Duran while I with the corporal and four soldiers separated from +them with the idea of returning to the southwest and northwest of the +Island of the Quenemsias, where the runaway Christians of San Jose were +hiding. + +We in the two boats then set out together but after having sailed four +miles the launch "Josefina" took a southerly course up the San Joaquin +while I kept on to the northwest. I soon put about to the north, taking +a channel which, according to the Indian pilot, was an arm of the river +which connected with the Sacramento. We sailed up this channel and at +five miles descried a crowd of Indians in the tules at the edge of the +river. Immediately I had all the Indian sailors jump ashore to see if +they could catch a few [of the natives], whom they quickly reported to +be the Christian fugitives. We could not get out of the boat because +everywhere was a swamp. The sailors pursued them a good stretch but, +since the fugitives had a great advantage, they [the sailors] could not +catch anyone. However, they captured good booty, because the Christian +fugitives, in order better to escape, abandoned everything. The sailors, +very happy with the putian (which is what they call pillage in their +language), reembarked and we continued our voyage. + +Going on upstream we observed that the river narrowed a great deal, so +much indeed that when I tried to turn around, we found ourselves in such +a narrow spot, with the current so rapid and strong, that I resolved +to go back, even with great effort, as soon as I could. But we had +to sail once more for about seven miles to the north. Then, taking a +northwesterly direction through another slough which we encountered, we +sailed about ten miles, at the end of which we turned north and entered +the main stream of the Sacramento River. At seven o'clock in the evening +we halted for the night on the same island.[38] + +At six o'clock in the morning of the following day, the 23rd, we started +out to the north and at five miles bore east, following the bend of the +river. We sailed on about seven miles and stopped around eleven o'clock +on account of the excessive heat and because we wanted to cut a pole to +provide a mast for the boat and replace the mainmast which broke off on +the 15th. All this island is covered with an abundance of wood and we +were entirely without any. + +Since all the island was found to be flooded owing to the very high +water in the river, I sent the Indian sailors with an axe to cut a tree +while I and the soldiers were eating lunch. They got so far away from us +that they unexpectedly ran onto the Christian fugitives from San Jose +and attacked them. As soon as word of this reached me, while we were +eating, I and the five men immediately broke off our meal, but although +we pushed about a quarter of a league through the swamp, we could get no +farther forward on account of the deep water. Thereupon I ordered the +Indian who had brought the message to tell the sailors that they should +make their retreat and that we would wait for them on the spot to see if +the runaway Indians pursued them. Soon they arrived, telling the story +that they had got away and crossed a branch of the river by swimming. +Each side shot a few arrows at the other but no damage was done except +to one San Jose Christian, who was wounded in the leg. We embarked and +continued upstream in pursuit of the fugitive Indians. We found the +village but it was without inhabitants. Although we landed and traveled +through the thickets, which are extremely dense, it was very difficult +to catch any of them unless by surprise. So at about five o'clock we +went back on board the boat and sailed some five miles to the northwest, +where we stopped with the intention of cutting a tree. But since we +could not find one suitable for the mast of the launch, at eight o'clock +in the evening I decided to go back. Having sailed all night, at six +o'clock in the morning of the 24th, we anchored in the bay of the +Chupucanes, there to await and join the launch "Josefina" and pass +through Carquinez Strait.[39] + +She arrived at six o'clock in the afternoon of this day. Here we +remained until the following day, the 25th, when Mass was celebrated +at nine o'clock in the morning. At ten-thirty o'clock we set sail and +navigated until four o'clock in the afternoon. With the aid of the high +tide we anchored off Point San Pablo. The launch "Josefina" did not +stop but kept on to the Island of Los Angeles, five miles north of the +Presidio. At eight o'clock in the evening we departed from Point San +Pablo and at ten o'clock rejoined the launch "Josefina." At twelve +o'clock the latter started to cross to the Port. I waited until one +o'clock in the morning, at which time we made the crossing to the port +and anchored without incident at two o'clock in the morning of the 26th +at the wharf. The launch "Josefina" went by another course and arrived +safely shortly after we did. + +This is in substance all that I can give your Excellency as official +information. I still entertain regret that I have not been able to +secure more exact information, as I had wished, for the reasons which +I outlined at the beginning. + +May God preserve many years the life of your Excellency. + + San Francisco, May 26, 1817 Luis Arguello + (rubric) + + + + +VII. MINOR RAIDS AND FORAYS, 1810-1820 + + +Apart from the records of major expeditions given in the previous +chapters a few scattered items from the Bancroft Library documents are +worth presenting. The first six below refer to various informal forays +and raids and give an idea of the character of these in the period near +1820. The last two are excerpts from recollections of early Spanish and +Mexican pioneers as recounted to Hubert Howe Bancroft's assistants in +1877 or 1878. The historical accuracy of these last is low, since they +refer to events which occurred sixty-five years before the telling. +Nevertheless, the personal flavor is worth preserving, including the +unabashed boastfulness. No detailed comment is required. + + _Fr. Juan Cabot to Captain de la Guerra_ + San Miguel, May 23, 1818 + (De la Guerra Docs., VII: 88-89) + + In the village of Telame there are at present thirty-three + Christians from several missions; as a rule, this is the place of + refuge ... from the direction of Santa Barbara there is no access + because everything is surrounded by water, but by way of Bubal there + is access. + + Before getting to Telame there are five villages, among them + Quiuamine, where they killed the Christian of San Buenaventura. + The Santa Barbara soldiers could stop them from escaping by water. + In Yulumne there are some [fugitives] also. + + If the other villages are treated in a friendly manner, without + our giving any indication of our intentions, and the first blow + is struck, I doubt if there will be any more trouble. + + Regarding Telame, he says that he was there twice in different + years. The first year he did not see the people "because they were + almost entirely dispersed and debilitated from starvation." The + second time the people were there. The village is situated opposite + the mission, a league from the Sierra Nevada, in an immense oak + forest--many Indians, docile and friendly, who do not admit + fugitives to their village. A little farther toward Santa Barbara + is Choimoc, of the same type and character, but not as large. "None + of these villages has a fixed position, but the variation is less + than half a league." + + _[Governor] to Captain Luis Arguello_ + Rancho de Real Hacienda, September 14, 1819 + (Cal. Arch., St. Pap., Sacramento, II: 241-242) + + He says that the time has come to make the expedition at San Jose. + The primary object is to recover the fugitives from that mission and + chastise the heathen Indians who are sheltering them, as well as + to take away from them the horses which, according to what Father + Narciso Duran has told him, are in their possession. He considers + that Sergeant Jose Sanchez is competent to lead the expedition, + but only because he [Arguello] feels himself indisposed. For this + purpose he is sending forty men who have arrived from San Blas. He + [Arguello] will instruct them day and night in the operation of + their weapons. + + _[Governor] to Captain Luis Arguello_ + Rancho Rey, October 13, 1819 + (Cal. Arch., St. Pap., Sacramento, II: 243-244) + + He thinks the expedition must have started to the outskirts of + San Jose for the purpose of recapturing the horses from the wild + Indians, and he has given orders that Lieutenant Estudillo, with + Sergeant Pico and thirty men, set out to make a campaign. + + _[Governor] to Captain Luis Arguello_ + Monterey, November 3, 1819 + (Cal. Arch., St. Pap., Sacramento, II: 244) + + He will bring to the attention of the viceroy the success of the + campaign made against the village of the Muquelenis. + + _Father Juan Martinez to Governor Sola_ + San Miguel, November 6, 1820 + (Archbishop's Arch., IV (1): 174) + + Says that it is necessary, in compliance with his duty, to go to the + villages of the Valley, Bubal, Telame, and Notonto, to confess and + instruct.... + + He asks that he be furnished a guard for the trip so that it may be + successful, both going and coming. + + _Father Esteban Tapis to Governor Sola_ + San Juan Bautista, January 22, 1821 + (Archbishop's Arch., IV (1): 199) + + Last night, to his pleasure, he was visited by thirty-three heathen + recently arrived from the Tulare Valley in search of baptism. Seven + of them were married to seven female converts. Three brought their + women who are heathen. Thirteen are single young persons or adults + from nine to forty years of age. Six are infants. + + They are from the villages of Hualquem, or Hualquemne, Notvolitch, + Huohual, and Quisats. + + _Jose Canuto Boronda, "Notas Historicas sobre California," 1878_ + + The first campaign on which I went was to Kings River, which comes + from the slopes of the mountains and enters Tulare Lake; from there + it goes to the junction with the San Joaquin River. + + At that place there were several Indian villages which had given + shelter to fugitive Christian Indians from the missions. They + brought out the Christian Indians they had with them and promised + in the future to shelter no more runaways. The custom was, if they + defaulted on that promise or committed acts of hostility, to fall + upon them with military power and capture them all, taking them by + force to the missions in order to baptize them. [Pp. 2-3.]... + + When I was a recruit we went on a campaign to the village of Tachi. + While there, I saw one of our Indian auxiliaries from San Miguel + seize an old Indian woman with completely white hair. The Indian was + going to kill her when I stopped him. But the Indian had already + fired an arrow at close range, which perforated her skin on one side + but did not enter her body. The arrows were raining around me and I + had to pay attention to warding them off. When I was able to turn + around again, I saw that an Indian had covered up the poor old woman + with firewood and had ignited it so as to burn her alive. I ran + to her and with my spear had begun to remove the burning sticks + when an arrow split the crown of my hat. Sergeant Espinosa, our + Commander, yelled to me to leave the old woman and look after my + own safety--but I pulled the fire away from the unfortunate Indian + woman--although Father Juan Cabot himself said to me that this was + no occasion suitable for a show of charity and neglect of my own + interest. The Indians jumped into the lake and crossed into the + swamps where it was not possible for us to follow them. These and + other Indians used to have underground chambers from which they shot + arrows. In some places everything would seem smooth and even, but on + going across the top, horse and all would go to the bottom. These + falls were extremely dangerous because the Indians would finish off + the horse before he could get up. [Pp. 13-15.] + + _Inocente Garcia, "Hechos Historicos de California," 1878_ + + After a few months I was selected to go on a campaign with five + other men--Antasio Mendoza, Manuel Butron, Jose de las Llagas + Garcia, Damaso Soto, and Ramon Martinez--under the orders of + Sergeant Jose Dolores Pico.[1] We accompanied Father Arroyo de la + Cuesta to the other side of Santa Rita to the villages of Jayaya + and Tape (Mission San Juan Bautista) in search of young girls + [monjas] whom the chiefs of these villages had offered us [i.e., + for baptism]. + + Father Arroyo had arranged with chief Jayaya that we should come + and get the girls--I already knew a little of the language of that + place. Sergeant Pico took thirty armed Indians from the mission to + go with us. We traveled to Jayaya and Tape, in which there were + numerous Indians. Chief Tape had gone to La Soledad, and Father + Arroyo was under the impression that he had returned to his village. + Consequently the Indians did not know of the arrangements made at + the mission and on our arrival we met the warriors armed and ready + to fight us. The sergeant ordered our Indian auxiliaries to march + straight on the village. I saw clearly that the enemy were going to + overwhelm us with arrows if we did not proceed carefully, and said + so to my comrades. The guide who was directing us said to the Father + that the only approach was a thousand yards higher up. We went that + way in order to protect our auxiliaries, who were already fighting. + Two of our Indians were already dead, but we did not know it, when + the auxiliaries began to run with the enemy after them. + + The situation was bad, and confused, for we could not give way a + step so as not to abandon our missionary. I said to Damaso Soto, + who was with me ahead of the others, that he should take out his + shield, for the Indians had been putting me under heavy fire, while + I covered him with mine. While Soto was getting out his shield, an + arrow went through it from the back, and he started running to join + the others who were with the Father. I found myself alone. So I made + my adversaries think that I was going to shoot them with my musket, + although I only pointed it at them. When they ducked, I began to + retreat, moving backward little by little until I knew I was far + enough away. Then I jumped on my horse and ran to join the others. + + There I saw that Father Arroyo was talking to the Indians in their + language and that they were paying no heed to him. Arrows were + hailing around the Father and the soldiers and one struck the knee + of my horse. I jumped to the ground and cried: "In the name of the + King, everybody fire!" That I said because the Sergeant had warned + us not to fire. The Father, the Sergeant, and Damaso Soto began + to run. I and the rest of my companions stayed fighting the enemy + until we managed to bring down their chief, who was all adorned + with feathers. This caused them to cease attacking us. Already the + Indians had gained possession of the spare horses, the provisions, + etc. Then I said to Manuel Butron that, since he was the senior man, + he should assume command and we would all obey him, so as to aid our + Indians to recover the horses from the enemy, etc. We succeeded in + this, saving everything and recapturing our two [dead] auxiliaries + and five live ones who were hidden in the arroyo of Santa Rita where + the tules were high. + + We loaded the two dead men and went to catch up with Father Arroyo, + the Sergeant, and Damaso Soto. They were about three leagues away + on the slope of the hills at the place they call Banos del Padre + Arroyo. The Father asked us to go to La Soledad, where the Governor + was, and send the dead to San Juan. [Pp. 10-13.] + + + + +NOTES + + + CHAPTER I + (pp. 241-242) + +[1] The Father--the missionary in charge of San Luis Obispo Mission. + +[2] "Capeador," from "capear." Literally "to steal the cape"--a +bullfighting expression. By extension, to divert with lies and +subterfuge. May be translated as "liar," "cheat," or a similar term. + +[3] According to the topography, the Rio del Pescadero is Old River, in +the delta area, Rio de San Francisco Jabier is Middle River, and Rio de +San Miguel is the main channel of the San Joaquin. Rio de la Pasion is +the Calaveras. + +[4] The route taken by Sal can be determined with reasonable accuracy. +Fifteen leagues, or 40 mi., from San Jose would have brought him to the +vicinity of Tracy. He probably crossed Old River somewhere to the north +of the present town, then, bearing northeast, crossed Middle River, +traversed Roberts I., and crossed the main San Joaquin R. somewhere to +the southwest of French Camp. From this point "about five leagues" would +put him on the Calaveras just west of Waterloo. The entire distance +would have been through oak park, as indicated by Sal. + +[5] In late 1776 two small expeditions penetrated the valley and crossed +the San Joaquin R. The primary, and probably the only first-hand +account, we have of them is contained in Palou's New California (H. +Bolton, 1926, IV: 127-131; 155-156). In September, 1776, Fernando Quiros +and Jose Joaquin Moraga made a joint attempt to explore the tulares. +Quiros was to go by water and Moraga by land, the two parties to meet +near Antioch. The plan miscarried. Quiros returned to San Francisco, but +Moraga kept on for three days up the river, crossing finally somewhere +near Merced (Bolton says "past the site of Modesto"). No details of what +he saw or did, remain to us, however, except the statement that the east +side of the river consisted of a great plain. + +On November 29 (cf. Bolton, 1926, IV: 155) Don Fernando Rivera y +Moncada tried it again. Palou says: "After dinner they started.... They +continued their journey by the same road that the lieutenant [Moraga] +had taken and crossed the great river by the same ford. But although +they traveled through the plain for some distance on the other side, +they did not venture to examine the other rivers, in order not to expose +themselves to the contingency that the great river might rise and cut +off the ford. For this reason they did not go up as far as in the +preceding examination. So they set out for home...." + +There is some discrepancy between the statements of Palou and Sal. If +the latter is correct, Rivera reached (and named) the Calaveras, or Rio +de la Pasion. If, as Palou says, he followed in Moraga's footsteps, he +could have gone no farther north than Modesto, and indeed would not have +crossed the branches of the San Joaquin in the delta, as Sal seems to +have done. It is unfortunate that no direct report of these expeditions +exists. + +[6] According to all modern observation the rivers show no salinity +detectable by taste above Antioch and certainly not above Rio Vista. +If this is "muy adentro," then Sal was correct. + +[7] San Juan Bautista Mission. The geography is somewhat distorted. The +west side of the valley as far south as Pacheco Pass, east of San Juan +Bautista, is by no means a "short distance" from the Sierra Nevada, +nor is this region visible from San Francisco. In his ignorance of the +actual terrain Sal foreshortened his distances considerably. + +[8] These references to white men and priests are intriguing. There is +no evidence that Spaniards crossed the high Sierra Nevada before this +date, or that they had reached the eastern flank of the mountains in +western Nevada. The tales here recounted could well have been derived +from contact, in trading or exploration, of the New Mexico and Sonora +Spaniards with the Yokuts of the upper San Joaquin V., directly, or +indirectly through the Colorado R. tribes. + +[9] The Julpones (or Julpunes) lived on the south shore of Suisun Bay. +Quinenseat refers no doubt to the Quenemsias, who inhabited Grand +Island, in the upper delta. Taunantoc and Quisitoc refer probably to +other groups on the lower Sacramento or, in fact, may be merely names +of persons. The words are at present impossible to identify. + + + CHAPTER II + (pp. 243-244) + +[1] The account is incomplete and there are discrepancies. Evidently +there was some untoward incident, since the expedition returned with +only two Christians in addition to Guchapa and his son. Furthermore +when did the "heroic struggle" occur? And why did an expedition to a +not far distant point like Cholam consume twenty days? + +[2] This figure seems to establish Martin's estimate of the population +of the Tulare L. area. + +[3] This statement is important since it demonstrates the previous +experience of the Indian women with the Mexican soldiers. + +[4] Arguello must have gone into the valley, otherwise there is no sense +to the mention of rivers, tule swamps, etc. Furthermore, 32 days is a +long trip, hardly to be spent in the coast ranges. + +[5] Probably Joscolo, a prominent Indian rebel and bandit, later +captured and beheaded in Santa Cruz Co. Perhaps he was not a bandit. +Perhaps he was an Indian patriot. Would it be subversion to suggest +the idea? + +[6] No women and children were found. This alone proves the utter +disruption of native society, even at this early date. + + + CHAPTER III + (pp. 245-255) + +[1] On July 20 the party went from Santa Ynez Mission north to Jonatas, +at Las Olivas, then to Saca on Alamo Pintado Cr. The next village, +Olomosong, was probably on the Sisquoc R. near the 120th meridian. After +4 leagues further travel they reached Gecp, apparently on the south +slope of the Sierra Madre range, because after climbing a mountain they +came out onto plains, no doubt the Cuyama V., in approximately T 10 N, +R 28 W (San Bernardino base line). Two leagues to the east was +Talihuilimit. + +[2] Lisahua was probably in lower Salisbury Canyon in T 9 N, R 26 W. +Cuia may have been in lower Santa Barbara Canyon, T 9 N, R 25 W. +Siguecin would then have been 12-15 mi. up the canyon to the south. + +[3] The party evidently bore more to the north and found Sgene somewhere +in lower Cuyama V., T 10 N, R 25 W. + +[4] Malapoa is located by Gifford and Schenck (1926) as on Bitterwater +Cr. It is identified by them with Hoschiu of the Yokuts tribe, Tulamni. +All the preceding villages were Tokya Chumash (see Kroeber, 1925, pl. +47). Nopalea can have been on either Bitterwater or Santiago Cr. + +[5] Buenavista can have been 8 leagues north of either Bitterwater or +Santiago Cr. It is identified by Gifford and Schenck as Tilamniu, which +Kroeber (1925, pl. 47) puts on the western or northwestern end of the +lake. Sisupistu is considered to be Pohalin Tinliu at the southeast +corner of Kern L. The big river is of course the Kern. + +[6] Six leagues from Sisupistu would have brought Zalvidea to the mouth +of either Tejon or El Paso Cr. at the edge of the foothills. In the +reconnaissance of July 28 the group explored the lower courses of El +Paso, Tejon, and Pastoria creeks. Tupai is placed doubtfully by Gifford +and Schenck at Tejon Ranch on El Paso Cr. + +[7] The party apparently doubled back west past Grapevine Cr. to Tacui +which was undoubtedly Tecuya on Tecuya Cr. + +[8] Nine leagues north of Tecuya, on the Kern R. was Yaguelame, which +Gifford and Schenck think was either Loasau or Woilo. My preference is +the latter since Loasau was on Kern L. rather than the river and since +Woilo is very close to 9 leagues from Tecuya. + +[9] The eastern end of Kern L. in T 32 S, R 28 E (Mt. Diablo base line). + +[10] Gifford and Schenck place Taslupi on Tejon Cr. This conforms with +the distances given. However it is more likely to have been Pastoria +on Grapevine Cr. since the party arrived at Castaic, at the head of +Grapevine Cr., on August 7. + +[11] Antelope V. + +[12] The San Gabriel Mts. The party crossed the mountains and went +southwest to San Gabriel Mission. Several villages of the Serrano +Indians were seen but the area concerned is well beyond the limits +of the San Joaquin V. + +[13] Camp was on San Benito R., 1 1/2 leagues from San Juan Bautista, +not on Pacheco Cr., as stated by Cutter (MS, p. 100). + +[14] Camp was approximately at San Luis Ranch, where Highway 152 crosses +San Luis Cr. + +[15] The camp at Santa Rita was 15 to 20 mi. east of San Luis Gonzaga +and 5 or 6 mi. west of the main San Joaquin R. (see account of the 4th +day). According to distances this point would be on Salt Slough or Paso +Slough, a few miles northeast of Los Banos. The course of the sloughs +and the channels of the San Joaquin are difficult to locate with +precision on a modern map because of the drainage and reclamation +operations of the past century. + +[16] Camp on the San Joaquin may be assumed to lie in T 8 S, R 11 E. + +[17] This village may be placed on the east bank of the river in T 11 S, +R 14 E. It was one of the several villages along the lower San Joaquin +which had been effaced so thoroughly that modern informants gave +ethnographers no indication that they had ever existed. + +[18] Cutter (MS, p. 104) thinks this was Bear Cr., rather than Mariposa +Cr., since it is approximately 3 leagues south of the Merced R. I see +no reason to disagree with him. + +[19] The party which went north reached the Merced R. somewhere west +of Livingston in T 6 S, R 11 E. The other party, which must have gone +north-northeast, probably reached it east of Cressey at the crossing of +Highway 99. The village where the old woman was baptized was Chineguis, +according to the list at the end of the diary. Near by were Yunate, +Chamuasi, Latelate, and Lachuo, some of which were seen on the return +trip. On September 29 Munoz saw Chineguis, and the other party found 5 +other villages. Within the area, therefore, was a minimum of 6 villages. +The average population was about 225 souls, according to the village +list, or a minimum total of 1,350 persons. Very possibly the number of +villages was greater, particularly if it be assumed that Moraga's 5, +seen on the 29th, are in addition to the 5 listed for the Merced by +Munoz. Certainly the total number of inhabitants between the San Joaquin +R. and the foothills must have been fully 2,000. + +[20] The Tuolumne, according to the direction, near Modesto. The +presence of several villages, although deserted, indicates a fairly +heavy Indian population. + +[21] Undoubtedly Dry Cr. The description is valid even today. + +[22] The Stanislaus. The party, if it continued in a northwesterly +direction from near Modesto would have reached the river at, or east of, +Ripon. The remnants of the oak forest can still be seen. It extended +perhaps a mile each side of the river at this point and ran parallel to +the stream continuously from the junction with the San Joaquin eastward +to beyond Oakdale. Here the valley oak park merges with the general +foothill forest and chaparral. + +[23] This spot is difficult to locate according to the description. +However, 6 leagues upstream from the vicinity of Ripon or Riverbank +barely reaches the limestone bluffs just below Knights Ferry. Certainly +no place lower on the river could possibly provide the physical +characteristics demanded by the account. These bluffs are not very high +but are unquestionably precipitous. Without heavy equipment an invader +would be hard put to scale them. As an alternative one must go far into +the foothills beyond the Calaveras-Stanislaus County line. Not only +is this distance greater than is indicated by Munoz but also the +description lacks any indication that the party had really entered +the mountains. The best guess is the vicinity of Knights Ferry. + +[24] There is some controversy concerning the ethnographic affinity of +the natives living in this area. Kroeber thinks they were Yokuts. He +mentions as Yokuts groups (Handbook, p. 485) "the Tawalimni, presumably +on Tuolumne River, which appears to be named from them; the Lakisamni +... rancheria at Dent's or Knights Ferry on the Stanislaus...." Schenck +(1926, p. 141) says, under the caption _Taulamne_: "The villages +Taulamne and Taualames are both definitely placed, the former on an +inaccessible rock on the Stanislaus river in the foothills, the latter +at the ford of the San Joaquin just below the mouth of the Tuolumne +river.... This seems to establish the region between the lower Tuolumne +and Stanislaus rivers as Taulamne territory." Kroeber on his map of the +region (Handbook, pl. 37) draws the line between Miwok and Yokuts at the +county boundary, near which the village of Taulamne seems to have been +situated. Hence the inhabitants may have been either Miwok or Yokuts. +The villages higher up the river mentioned by Munoz must have been +Central Miwok. + +It is noteworthy that Munoz makes no mention of villages on the lower +Stanislaus within the very favorable environment created by the oak +forest. Villages were seen on the Tuolumne but were deserted. It is +highly probable that a similar series existed on the Stanislaus but +by 1806 had been abandoned. The only village mentioned by name in the +supplementary list is Tahualamne. + +[25] Cutter (MS, p. 107) concludes that the first stream (Rio San +Francisco) was the Calaveras, and the second (Rio de la Pasion) the +Cosumnes. There is little reason to disagree. The distances are right, +and the linguistic border between the Miwok and the Maidu runs along +the Cosumnes. On the other hand, it is difficult to explain the failure +of the diarist to mention the Mokelumne, an all-year stream. Moreover +a round trip of 30 leagues, or about 75 mi., is incredible, even for +an accomplished group of horsemen traveling without baggage. Another +guess would be that Munoz meant the first river was 6 leagues from the +starting point on the Stanislaus and the second 9 leagues _from the +Stanislaus_, rather than 9 leagues _additional_. This would end the +trip at the Mokelumne and satisfy the criterion of distance but would +not explain the linguistic change. + +[26] Cutter (MS, pp. 109-110) identifies the Santo Domingo with Mariposa +Cr. and the Tecolote with the Chowchilla. + +[27] The Santa Ana was the Fresno R. Throughout the journey from the +Merced to the San Joaquin Moraga's party stayed close to the eastern +edge of the valley. On the seasonal streams found in this area there +was a distinct absence of permanent Indian settlements. Pizcache, on +the San Joaquin, is listed in the appendix directly following Lachuo, +on the Merced. On the San Joaquin, Moraga probably halted approximately +north of Fresno, below Le Grand. + +[28] There is a discrepancy here. Moraga, or Munoz, says that this +village was in the mountains or at least the foothills. But Kroeber +(Handbook, p. 484) says that the Pitkachi "held the south side of the +San Joaquin, living at Kohuou, near Herndon or Sycamore; at Weshiu, +on a slough; and at Gewachiu, still farther downstream." Gayton (1948, +p. 5) says: "After getting aid Derby's party reached the bend of the +San Joaquin River, country attributed to the Pitkachi, on May 24." It +appears as if this group moved downstream between 1806 and 1850. + +[29] For comment on the New Mexico legend see Cutter (MS, pp. 110-111). + +[30] Kings R. was reached near Sanger or Centerville. + +[31] No record exists of this expedition. + +[32] The village list at the end of the report mentions by name Aycayche +and 4 other villages which can be ascribed to the Kings R. basin. The +text mentions Ayquiche plus 6 others upstream and 3 downstream, a total +of 9. Evidently the village list does not include all those which were +actually seen. + +[33] The entry for the 27th day (17 Oct.) is missing. However it is +clear that on the 28th day the scouts reached the great oak forest along +the Kaweah delta at or above Visalia. To this area the main party moved +on the 29th day (19 October). The water evidently was very low--somewhat +unusual for this region, even in October. The large village of 600 +souls, at which 22 persons were baptized was Telame, according to the +statements under dates 19, 21, and 23 October, and also the description +in the village list. These are the Telamni of the ethnographers, and are +repeatedly mentioned by the early explorers. + +[34] The tremendous aboriginal population of the lower Kaweah drainage +is attested by several lines of evidence. It probably reached a much +higher figure than the 3,000 mentioned by Munoz. + +[35] The Tule R. + +[36] After a winding course for two days, the party camped on the Tule +R. near the foothills, probably not far from Porterville. + +[37] Probably Deer Cr. + +[38] Probably White R. + +[39] No distances are given, but from the description the most likely +stream is Poso Cr. + +[40] The Kern R., probably some miles above Bakersfield. A "long trip" +downstream would have brought them into the slough country south of +Bakersfield. From the entire absence of any mention of Buenavista L. +farther to the west it is clear that Moraga did not get within sight +of it. + +[41] Grapevine Canyon. As Munoz predicted, Father Zalvidea left an +account of the villages in this area (see his report for the expedition +of Aug., 1806). + +[42] On the last three days the party left the valley by way of +Grapevine Canyon, over Tejon Pass, across the Tehachapi Mts. (Cutter +says the Santa Susanna Range) to San Fernando Mission. + +[43] Olivera may be thinking of Moraga's expedition of 1808, which went +north into the Sacramento V. + +[44] No recorded expedition remained in the field for any such length of +time. + +[45] Here the reference is clearly to the 1806 expedition. + +[46] This expedition of 1807 is otherwise unrecorded. + +[47] Possibly the entrance to the Gorge of the Kern R., east of +Bakersfield. + +[48] The abundance of wild horses and cattle testifies to the early date +at which these animals escaped from the range country of the coast and +overran the plains of the valley. The effect on native economy and +living habits was very great. + + + CHAPTER IV + (pp. 256-257) + +[1] Cutter (MS, p. 143) places this expedition in approximately 1808 and +cites evidence to support the presumption. + +[2] A former Chumash village in the valley of Calleguas Cr., north of +the Santa Susanna Mts. + +[3] According to Cutter, Muscupian was the same as Moscopiabit of +Zalvidea, in the vicinity of Cajon Pass. Mavialla may have been as +far east as the San Bernardino Mts. + +[4] Referring to some incident not recorded in the official documents. + +[5] Cutter (MS, p. 146) says that this was Antelope V. I see no reason +to disagree with him. + +[6] This encounter probably took place somewhere in the southeastern +corner of the San Joaquin V. It was in the foothills, not near +Buenavista L. or as far north as the Kern R., since neither the +lake nor the river are mentioned. + +The entire passage is obscure and the translation has to be very free. + +[7] Here apparently Palomares is talking to the chief Quipagui, who has +either been defeated in the skirmish or who has consented to negotiate. + +[8] Cutter (MS, p. 147) thinks this may have been Grapevine Canyon and +Pass. There is no evidence one way or another. + +[9] The party stayed at San Fernando until November 10th, when they +started out again. This time they went eastward into the Mojave Desert +and the area of Cajon Pass. Hence the account from this point on +concerns southern California rather than the San Joaquin V. + +It is probable that in the account just rendered Palomares describes +encounters with mountain, rather than valley, tribes. Hence Quipagui +and his cohorts were more likely Shoshonean (Kitanemuk? Alliklik?) than +Yokuts. Indeed, it is not certain that Palomares ever actually reached +the floor of the valley. + + + CHAPTER V + (pp. 258-266) + +[1] The route ran from Mission San Jose to Sunol, Dublin, Walnut Creek, +and to the northeast edge of the plain between Martinez and Port +Chicago. Viader's leagues are short. By modern road--which follows very +close to the old horse trail--the distance is close to 38 mi. Viader +allows a total of 18 leagues for the two days, or an average of 2.1 mi. +per league. + +[2] At or near Antioch, as is indicated by the 7 leagues covered before +lunch. The large oak forest (inhabited by the Tulpunes--or rather +Julpunes) extends from just east of Antioch to the vicinity of +Brentwood. The halt for the night was near Oakley. + +[3] From Oakley to Bethany, the site of Pescadero and the home of the +Bolbones, is 21 mi., which agrees with Viader's estimate of 10 leagues. +The lakes mentioned have long since vanished. + +[4] According to the distances given, Tomchom was north of Tracy, and +Cuyens was on the left bank of the river about 3 mi. above the highway +bridge. Aupemis was passed before Tomchom was reached and hence cannot +be identical with Pitemis as Schenck (1926, p. 141) assumes. + +With respect to the journey from Pescadero (Bethany) to San Luis Gonzaga +it should be noted that, if one applies Viader's value of 2.1 mi. per +league, the distances reconcile very exactly. + +[5] About 2 mi. north-northeast of Vernalis. + +[6] On the right bank of the river east of Vernalis. + +[7] About 2 mi. southeast of Grayson. The skirmish described represents +one of the earliest recorded armed conflicts between the Spaniards and +the valley natives. It is clear that from this time forward expeditions +of the white man into the interior could no longer preserve the +semblance of altruism or religious motivation. + +[8] Probably east of Patterson. + +[9] Orestimba Cr., east of Crows Landing. + +[10] Probably 3 or 4 mi. north or northeast of Gustine, in the open +treeless plain. From this point it is close to 21 mi. (10 leagues) to +San Luis Gonzaga. + +[11] Here, as in the previous account, Viader uses a league of +approximately 2.1 mi. From Mission San Jose to the river near Bethany +is just about 32 mi., a distance Viader calls 15 leagues. + +[12] Two villages of the Bolbones were concerned, one on the west bank +of Old River, the other on the opposite bank, on Union I. The frankly +military and aggressive character of this expedition is readily +apparent. + +[13] These elevations were of two types: (1) small, scattered mounds +formed of residual calcareous sand (the so-called "sand mounds") on +the summits of which the Indians established their villages; (2) true +habitation mounds, perhaps originally situated on a slight elevation, +but built up by midden deposit to a height of several feet. + +[14] The itinerary of the 22nd and 23rd seems fairly clear. The party +kept closer to the river than the expedition of August and thus +apparently saw Jusmites and Tugites (or Fugites), which were not +mentioned by name in the account of the previous trip. According to +the present diary, Mayem was 9 leagues from Pescadero, as compared +with the estimated 8 1/2 leagues in August. + +Two leagues beyond Mayem in August the village under the chief Bozenats +was encountered. The present record gives the name of the village, or +tribe, Taualames. The identity is clear. + +[15] From the crossing of the San Joaquin the distances and directions +cannot be reconciled with the apparent locations. Thus the village +of the Taualames would appear to lie on the east bank between the +Stanislaus and the Tuolumne (Dolores), and Schenck so places it. Yet +Viader says the Tuolumne R. was 2 or 3 leagues north of the village and +the Merced about 6 leagues southeast. Elsewhere (on the 25th) he says +that Taualames is 2 leagues below the mouth of Orestimba Cr. If so, it +would be 8 or more leagues south of Mayem. + +The most probable route would follow up the west bank of the San Joaquin +to the vicinity of the Tuolumne, then across and up the east bank to the +Merced. Having crossed the Merced and back to the west bank of the San +Joaquin, the group retraced their steps downstream, past Orestimba Cr. +to the starting point opposite Taualames. + +[16] Turning west the expedition crossed three leagues of plain +and came upon Arroyo Corpus Christi, at present Del Puerto Cr. This +identification is additional evidence that Taualames was about 3 leagues +south of the Tuolumne R., as Viader implies. On the 26th and 27th the +trail led up Del Puerto Cr. to its headwaters, past San Antonio V., and +through the hills northeast of Mt. Hamilton to Mission San Jose. The +total distance is given as 23 leagues, or about 48 mi. according to +Viader's reckoning. This is reasonably close to the actual airline +distance. + +[17] Although the first three days of the journey concern San Francisco +Bay rather than the Central Valley, it seems preferable to present a +translation of the whole diary. To attempt to segregate those entries +pertaining solely to the delta area would save but little space and +would destroy the continuity of the narrative. + +[18] The body of water south of Pts. San Pablo and San Pedro and +generally north and northeast of Angel I. + +[19] The distance, that is, will be about twice that across the Golden +Gate. + +[20] Pt. Pinole. + +[21] "Tierra firme de San Jose." This expression referred by convention +to the entire East Bay area, including the Coast Ranges from Carquinez +Strait and Suisun Bay south to Santa Clara and Stanislaus counties. + +[22] It is clear from this statement that Abella considered 8 hours' +rowing time as equivalent to 8 leagues. A league on land was usually +measured in practice by an hour on foot or horseback, and this system +was based upon the usual steady progress of a horse or man throughout a +day. Oarsmen in still water, and with moderate effort, could approximate +the same rate. But here the boats traveled with or against tidal and +stream currents, subject to drift in the winds, or traversed the +sloughs, where movement might or might not be restricted. From these +considerations it follows that the transposition directly of hours of +travel into leagues of distance has no meaning whatever. Indeed, when +the narrative states leagues, the expression should be interpreted as +hours. + +In the present instance the distance from the Embarcadero in San +Francisco to Angel I., to Pt. San Pablo, to the entrance of Carquinez +Strait, assuming straight-line navigation, is about 24 mi. This means +3 mi., or slightly less per league, according to Abella's calculation, +somewhat in excess of the usual value for the league, of 2.6 mi. But +Abella states that he waited for the incoming tide, which of course +would have increased his speed with reference to the shore. Hence his +leagues here are long. + +[23] Mare I., on the north side of the channel. + +[24] This sentence reads: "la contra costa es la tierra de San Jose del +Estrecho Yamado de los Carquinez es tierra muy Pelada." To render it +"the opposite shore is the mainland of San Jose" makes no sense since +the party stopped on the south side and the north side is bare of trees. + +[25] From this point the journey takes Abella and his party into the +actual delta. Thereafter progress is almost impossible to follow, except +in broad outline. The party wandered almost at random through the tules, +finally touching at spots which can be identified. This is evident from +the account of Abella, who substantially admits that he was lost for +days at a time. Another difficulty lies in the changes which have taken +place during the past century. River channels have been leveed, new +canals or channels have been excavated, great areas have been drained +entirely, with complete change of vegetation. Therefore an attempt to +trace Abella's course in detail through the delta as it exists today +is doomed to failure in advance. As a matter of fact the route outlined +by Bancroft 80 years ago (1884-1890, II: 321-323) is likely to be +reasonably close to the truth. + +Even though the precise pathway cannot be reconstructed the diary is of +interest both in giving a vivid impression of the great tule swamps in +their pristine condition and in presenting information regarding the +natives of those regions. + +[26] As suggested in n. 22 above, Abella's distances in leagues are +completely unreliable and should be entirely disregarded. + +[27] Fourteen leagues, or a minimum of 35 mi. from near Martinez to near +Antioch, a truly preposterous figure. + +[28] The passage is obscure. It is probable that the island, and the +branching of the rivers, refers to the western end of Sherman I. where +the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers merge. The Ompines were a tribe +living on the north shore of Suisun Bay but it is quite likely that they +had a fishing station on Sherman I. or some other island close to the +south shore. + +[29] "Boca." The word denotes the mouth or entrance of a stream or +river. Here, quite evidently it is used with reference to the many +openings among the islands and swamps where sloughs intersect each other +or meet the rivers. From a small boat on the water only the break in the +tules can be seen. Rarely is there any indication of how far, or where, +the lateral channel runs. These mouths, or openings, usually resemble +each other in appearance so closely that a stranger like Abella can +never be sure of differentiating between them or of recognizing one +the second time he passes it, unless there is some very distinctive +landmark. + +[30] "Rio del Norte," the Sacramento. The party appears now to have been +somewhere in the Big Break region off the northwest shore of Jersey I. +The channel to the left cannot be identified on modern maps. + +[31] From the context it is clear that at this point the party entered +False River, as they could not fail to do if they went upstream past +Antioch, took the channel on their right, and held close to the south +shore. + +[32] The party may have been at the foot of Mandeville I., where Old +River and the main San Joaquin unite, or at the foot of Bacon I. If the +latter theory is correct, then the channel running to the left (Abella +was pointing south) might have been Connection Slough, which joins +Middle River a few miles to the southeast. + +[33] The expedition is now proceeding up Old River past Palm, Orwood, +and Byron tracts, on which are still the remains of aboriginal +habitation sites. + +[34] The long trip south, the appearance of Indians and villages on the +shore, the short swing of the river to the east, and the proximity of +dry land at the stopping place, all indicate arrival in the vicinity +of present Highway 4, near the western tip of Union I., 3 or 4 mi. +northwest of Bethany. The Bolbones, probably a Yokuts tribelet, had +been converted at San Jose during the preceding decade. + +[35] Referring to Carmel R. + +[36] Abella makes little reference to the fact that he was accompanied +by Fr. Buenaventura Sitjar and that the expedition was actually under +the military command of Sergeant Jose Sanchez. + +[37] "Mais de umedad": corn planted and dependent upon rain for +moisture, as opposed to corn dependent upon irrigation. + +[38] The village of Pescadero is known to have been situated on the +southwestern side of Union I., somewhere near White House Landing, a +mile or two northeast of Bethany. The site itself is lost, the river +bounded by levees, the land under cultivation. Some of the old oaks, +however, still stand along the river, behind the levees. + +[39] This body of water is mentioned by several explorers of this +period. It no longer exists, nor does it appear on any modern map. It +probably was a shallow backwater in the vicinity of Tracy. + +[40] The most probable location for the stopping place is approximately +north of Tracy where there are oaks which easily could have been +surrounded by swamp. The fork in the river at just about this point +would be that in which Salmon Slough runs northeast to join Middle River +and the main San Joaquin and in which Tom Paine Slough runs southeast to +meet the main river near Lathrop. Abella's group would have gone down +Salmon Slough. + +[41] The passage is obscure but evidently refers to the junction of +Middle River with the main stream of Old River as it passes through +what is now Salmon Slough. The ultimate reunion of the two streams can +be considered to take place at the foot of Bacon I., as suggested in +n. 32. This interpretation of locality is strongly supported by Abella's +statement that he next proceeded upstream and at 3 leagues came into the +Rio Grande, or the main branch of the San Joaquin R. about 2 mi. west of +Lathrop. + +[42] The junction of Tom Paine Slough with the San Joaquin near the +railroad and highway crossing east of Tracy. + +[43] The name never was accepted. The river has always been known as the +San Joaquin. + +[44] Abella evidently refers to Old River as the opening ("boca") on the +left and to Middle River as that on the right. + +[45] Schenck (1926) places Coybos on the right bank of the San Joaquin +not more than a mile or two below the junction of Middle River. It is +probable, from Abella's account, that the village was farther down, +nearer the mouth of French Camp Slough. Abella, furthermore, gives no +indication on which side of the river the village was situated. + +[46] It is probable that the rancherias here described, and indeed the +whole day's journey, was in the area just west of the present city of +Stockton. + +[47] The first split in the river going downstream is west of Stockton, +with the formation of Rough and Ready I. It is probable that the party +was in this area. + +[48] The party apparently had reached the junction of the main +stream--now the Stockton ship channel--and Old River, north of +Mandeville I. The distance is about 15 mi. from Rough and Ready I., +near Stockton, where the previous halt was made. The entrance to Old +River is passed on the left going downstream. + +[49] The location of these villages cannot be ascertained with +certainty. According to the text the party traveled about 1 1/2 +leagues on the 24th and 6 leagues on the 25th, making 7 1/2, or +perhaps 18, mi., if we can believe Abella's distances. + +There is very great question as to the route taken after the party +reached the junction of the main river and Old River. Bancroft +(1884-1890, II: 323, fn.) says the route passed through the sloughs just +north of Sherman I. so as to enter the Sacramento R. This would imply +the use of Threemile Slough, 3 mi. long, as its name implies. One +alternative is Sevenmile Slough, which passes from the San Joaquin R., +with Andrus and Brannan islands on the right and Twitchell I. on the +left, to the Sacramento. Still another possibility is that Abella +entered the Mokelumne R., just below the junction of the main river and +Old River. If so, progress would have been necessary through the sloughs +of Tyler and Andrus islands. None of these possibilities conforms in all +respects to the account in the text. + +[50] They were still going north along a waterway not more than 100 ft. +wide. + +[51] At this point the party evidently entered the main stream of the +Sacramento. + +[52] This passage shows clearly that the party was traveling the +Sacramento relatively far above Suisun Bay and that therefore the +entrance to the river could not have been by way of Threemile Slough +above the head of Sherman I. Accounts by many later voyagers, as well +as the existing condition of the terrain, indicate unequivocally that +the oak trees begin, on ascending the river, no more than a mile or +two below Rio Vista. The heavy oak stand with dense undergrowth and +grapevines appears near the foot of Grand I. and continues thence up the +river. Hence it is most probable that Abella entered the Sacramento R. +at or near Tyler I., no farther downstream than Isleton. The population +described in the text is much heavier than has been generally ascribed +to these islands by modern students (cf. Schenck, 1926). + +[53] Foot of Grand I., where Steamboat Slough joins the main river. + +[54] He refers to the main stream of the Sacramento and Steamboat Slough +plus the slough or channel which we cannot identify and through which +he reached his present position below the foot of Grand I. The party was +now not far from the site of Rio Vista. + +[55] The description fits the north bank of the river below Rio Vista: +the bare rolling hills are the Montezuma Hills, the high hill of the +Bolbones is Mt. Diablo, the plain is the flat area stretching north from +Sherman I. all the way to Fairfield. The distance traveled was far less +than 12 leagues but it is true that at about the halfway point the oaks +and other river bank shrubbery fade out and the land becomes pure grassy +pasture land. + +[56] Probably referring to the exploratory expedition of Ayala and +Canizares in 1776. Canizares reached the vicinity of lower Sherman I., +when he repeatedly ran aground and was forced to turn back. + +[57] The exact course of the expedition on the 27th and 28th is +difficult to trace but in outline it is fairly clear. Priestley (1946, +p. 108) says: "From the Ompines the navigators went through Nurse Slough +and Montezuma Creek to a point one league east of Suisun." This is +unlikely because one must navigate several miles of Montezuma Slough +before arriving at Nurse Slough. The head of the latter is fully 8 mi. +from Suisun. Furthermore, Abella says the "Yano de los Suisunes" (the +plain of the Suisunes), not the town of Suisun. + +Leaving the main bay and river near Collinsville, the party evidently +went north through Montezuma Slough, with the low Montezuma Hills to the +east and the Potrero Hills to the north. Then they followed the meanders +of Montezuma Slough and probably some of its branches, camping on high +ground perhaps in the Potrero Hills. The following day they must have +entered Suisun Slough and gone north to dry ground (only 1 league). Here +they found the oak groves and the low hills of the inner Coast Range. +Subsequently, they went generally south into Suisun Bay and thence to +Carquinez Strait. Mt. Diablo ("Serro de los Bolbones") was slightly east +of south, not southwest, as Abella thought. + +[58] "Los Plumajes de sus Peleas": the costumes, made of feathers, or +otherwise, which they were accustomed to wear in battle. + +[59] Not long previously Moraga had led a military expedition north of +Suisun Bay and had chastised, with several casualties, the recalcitrant +natives living in southern Solano Co. + +[60] "Las Lomas de los Carquines": meaning apparently the hills along +the north shore of the Strait. + +[61] The sentence ends without completion and, as it stands, does not +make sense. It is probable that the person who made the copy in the +Bancroft Library failed to finish the entry for October 29. The omitted +portion cannot be reconstructed from the fragment available. + +[62] Arguello's letter does not specify the location of the Indian +village attacked. Father Narciso Duran, however, in the report of +his journey in 1817, placed it as among or near the Unsumnes (i.e., +Cosumnes), along the northeastern edge of the delta. (See Schenck, +1926, pp. 128-129.) + +[63] Section omitted by Bancroft's transcriber. + +[64] This is the first real battle in Central California of which we +have record. The advantage to the Indians in numbers and terrain +was offset by the Spanish superiority in weapons and discipline. +Furthermore, 100 Indian auxiliaries were an adequate compensation for +the hostile natives' excess in numbers. + +The soldiers won a tactical victory, for they drove the Indians from +the field. But the Indians could point to strategic gains: (1) they +demonstrated that under the right circumstances they could stand up in a +fair fight against a strong force of whites; and (2) they prevented the +attainment of the objective of the campaign, i.e., the recapture of the +fugitives. + + + CHAPTER VI + (pp. 267-279) + +[1] Ortega gives no distances and the route appears to have been very +devious. Hence it is possible to locate the expedition at those points +only which are specifically named. Cholam is still a small village in +the southwest corner of T 25 S, R 16 E. + +[2] The Yokuts subtribe Tachi occupied the area to the west of L. Tulare +and its outlet sloughs as far as the coast ranges (see Kroeber, 1925, p. +484). However, since Ortega speaks of operating along the Kings R., the +village he attacked must have been one of those not far west of Lemoore. +The records of the Calif. Archaeol. Survey show from 10 to 15 habitation +sites in this area, a fact which indicates in a general way a heavy +population. + +[3] The Nutunutu. This tribe extended along the south bank of the Kings +R. from Lemoore nearly to Kingsburg. + +[4] The chief center of the Telamni, who inhabited the oak forest of +the Kaweah delta at and below Visalia. This had originally been a very +large village but the disturbances caused by the Spanish expeditions +had substantially destroyed it. The heavy mortality and great famine +mentioned by Ortega were undoubtedly due to the continuous state of +fugitivism, severe exposure to the weather, and inability to gather and +store the customary stocks of food such as acorns and fish. No specific +epidemic was recorded, such as is implied by Cutter (Ms, p. 213) on the +basis of certain statements of the Father President, Mariano Payeras. +However, no fulminating epidemic was necessary to produce the mortality. +Starvation, exposure, and respiratory diseases would be quite adequate. + +[5] The Choinok, who lived along Deep Cr., in the Kaweah delta, near and +northeast of Tulare. The San Gabriel R. was the Kaweah. + +[6] Sumtache (Tuntache, Chuntache). This was probably the principal +village of the Chunut, on the northeast shore of L. Tulare. Bubal, +mentioned frequently in the early accounts, was the village of the +Wowol (see discussion in Kroeber, 1925, pp. 483-484 and Cook, 1955, +pp. 44-45). + +[7] The party followed the usual route over Pacheco Pass to San Luis +Gonzaga and east into the valley. + +[8] The stopping place may have been somewhere near Dos Palos, which is +20 mi. from San Luis Gonzaga. The expedition could scarcely have reached +Mendota as stated by Cutter (Ms, p. 218) since the latter is nearly 50 +mi. from the starting point and the ride was only 3 hours long. + +[9] The villages along the San Joaquin R. from the great bend above +Mendota to the vicinity of Newman had so completely disappeared in the +early years of the nineteenth century that the Yokuts informants of +Kroeber, Gifford, Gayton, and other modern ethnographers preserved no +memory of them. Yet it is clear from the accounts of Pico and of other +explorers and soldiers that they were relatively numerous and populous. +The inhabitants seem to have been unusually disposed to the stealing of +horses. Moreover, their habitat was on the west bank of the river and +wide open to attack from the coast. For these or other reasons, they +appear to have been completely obliterated. + +The existence of 6 villages can be established with reasonable certainty +(see discussion in Cook, 1955, pp. 51-52). From north to south they +are: Cheneches, Malim, Nupchenches, Cutucho, Copicha, Tape. The first, +Cheneches, was probably near the mouth of Mariposa Cr., north of Los +Banos. The southernmost, Tape, was, according to Estudillo in 1819, 24 +leagues south of, or upstream from, Cheneches. This would place Tape +south of the great bend of the San Joaquin, roughly 20 mi. west of +Fresno. Copicha was at the mouth of the Chowchilla. + +[10] The general course of Pico's party was southeastward along the +connecting sloughs between Tulare L. and the San Joaquin R. On the +12th they reached the lower Kings R. in the territory of the Wimilchi +(Gumilchis). At or near this point the junction was made with Ortega's +division. + +[11] The route for the next several days is confused. The joint +expedition moved back northwestward from the Kings R. to the San +Joaquin area, where Pico had been previously operating. + +[12] An error, since the party had just left Cheneches. + +[13] The huge number of dead animals found in these villages is +testimony to their great significance as an item in the diet of the +natives. The Nupchenches group evidently had undergone a profound +alteration from a sedentary, principally vegetarian people to active, +hard-riding, meat-eating raiders. + +[14] From the 16th to the 28th of December the Pico-Ortega expedition +was pursued by miserable fortune and turned in a really pathetic +performance. Not lacking in competent leadership, it nevertheless +floundered for nearly two weeks through rain and mud, lost its horses, +was led on repeated wild-goose chases by native guides, and accomplished +nothing in the military sense. On the other hand, it contributed to the +rapid economic and physical disintegration which was being undergone by +the valley tribes. The Spaniards could return to the coast and organize +a new expedition. The natives could not recover from the damage they +suffered. + +[15] The geography of this trip is very confusing and has never been +cleared up satisfactorily. Despite the fact that Father Martinez gives +distances with a great air of exactness, these distances cannot be +tied to recognizable points. It is clear that Thuohuala is Bubal, of +the Wowol, very probably on the western side of Tulare L. The river +mentioned, which ends in Buenavista L., Goose L., and Tulare L., may +have been Kern, since, moreover, it is the only unfordable stream in the +southern valley. However, Telame refers to the village of the Telamni, +west of Visalia. The only river 20 mi. (7 leagues) from Telame would be +the Tule R. which, to be sure, flows into Tulare L. but is 100 mi. from +Buenavista L. Gelecto may have been at or near Goose L., but if so, +where was Lihuahilame, 19 leagues away? + +It may have been that Martinez actually stayed in the southwestern areas +of the valley and never crossed the line of the lakes and sloughs at +all. If so, when he mentioned "Telame" he was talking about the subtribe +Tulamni west of Buenavista L., not the Telamni in the Kaweah delta. In +favor of such an hypothesis is his statement that "in all our trip we +did not see a tree." This could scarcely have been true, had he reached +the lower Kaweah R. The big river was very probably the Kern. + +[16] The photocopy in the Bancroft Library is poorly executed. Several +words close to the binding of the original book are impossible to +decipher. + +[17] For another version of this fight see the account by Father Cabot. + +[18] The personal pronouns in this excerpt are somewhat confusing. +However, the reader need only bear in mind that this is a transcript of +a letter, not the original. Hence the first two words may be rendered: +"Father Cabot says...." The entire letter is, of course, condensed and +paraphrased in the transcript. + +[19] Here is a clear instance of mission Indians going by themselves on +a raid to the valley. They were, of course, authorized to do so by the +missionary himself (Father Fray Antonio Jaime). How many such forays +took place we have no means of knowing. As a rule, only when the +expedition got into trouble was notice taken of it in the official +correspondence or in the reports of the friars. It is probable that, +in addition to these trips, which might be called "semiofficial," a +vast number of Mission Indians came and went without permission. The +disturbing influence of such small parties in the valley was not as +great as that of the major, full-scale military enterprises, but in +the aggregate must have been considerable. + +[20] These villages are in the general region of Tulare L. + +[21] These villages are all along the San Joaquin R. from Mendota to +Patterson--in the Nupchenches group. Notice the final extinction of the +village of Malime and the emigration of the inhabitants of Notoalh to +the Sierra Nevada. By 1820 this area was probably completely denuded of +Indians. + +[22] The eastern end of the Montezuma Hills, just southwest of Rio +Vista. + +[23] Like those of other river explorers, Duran's leagues are not to be +taken literally. + +[24] The day's trip can be followed with reasonable assurance. A league +from the stopping point at the eastern end of the Montezuma Hills near +Rio Vista would bring the party to the foot of Grand I. [Isla de los +Quenemsias]. The opening to the starboard was the main channel of the +Sacramento. Following to the left, they soon encountered the entrance +to Cache Slough to port. This they passed by and therefore must have +entered Steamboat Slough. At 6 leagues (actually much less) they saw +the fork of Steamboat Slough and Sutter Slough and followed the latter, +which appears to continue straight ahead whereas Steamboat Slough seems +to bear northeast. Both sloughs in fact lead back again to the main +channel of the Sacramento. The description of the oak groves conforms +to those of other early navigators of the Sacramento Basin. + +[25] The opening or slough encountered at the end of one league was +probably Miner Slough--although clearly it was not the one passed on +the preceding day. The village of the Chucumnes was probably on Sutter +I. near this point. Here also must be the place where the river +"subdivides" into three branches; north, west, and south, Miner Slough +being the western branch and Sutter Slough both the northern and +southern arms. The afternoon voyage carried the party very slowly up +Sutter Slough to a point near the head of Sutter I. where they stopped +apparently on the west bank. The 18th they crossed the top of Sutter I. +by way of the short connecting slough and entered the main stream of the +Sacramento half a mile above Paintersville. + +[26] Probably the slough which runs around Randall I. to the southeast. + +[27] The halt was made probably somewhere near Richland. + +[28] Since the distances in leagues are unreliable, it is impossible to +specify exactly where Duran's party stopped on the night of May 19 or +where they set up the cross and turned around on May 20. At the latter +point they were above the last of the important sloughs, Elkhorn Slough, +for the ground appeared as if it would be dry in the fall of the year +and Duran thought that an approach by land would be better than one +by water. The best guess is that the cross was set up somewhere near +Freeport, and in any case below the junction of the American R. at +Sacramento. + +[29] It is doubtful that this "hill" was the Marysville, or Sutter, +Buttes because not only are these heights much more than 10 leagues +distant, but also because in the month of May there is no snow on them. +It is more likely that Duran saw some of the higher summits of the Coast +Range in Napa or Lake counties. + +[30] Again somewhere near Richland, probably on Merritt I. + +[31] This statement places the party definitely at the head of Grand I. +The following sentence is misleading. They left Steamboat Slough on the +right and took the main river which runs to the left. There is no other +waterway fitting the description in this area. + +[32] The party probably reached the vicinity of Walnut Grove on the +afternoon of the 21st. From this time to the morning of the 24th it is +impossible to reconstruct Duran's exact route. However, in general he +seems to have run south, perhaps through the Mokelumne system, as far as +the region northwest of Stockton, and thence westward to Suisun Bay. + +[33] If, as Fr. Duran said, he bore east as close as possible to the dry +land, then the most probable course was through Snodgrass Slough, past +Deadhorse I. into the South Fork of the Mokelumne. He must have followed +this stream downward to Potato Slough and perhaps Little Connection +Slough to a junction with the main San Joaquin R. There is no continuous +waterway farther east. Farther west the only feasible pathway is +directly down the Mokelumne R., a course which does not fit the +description given. The Nototemnes (to the right) may have lived +on Staten I., or conceivably Bouldin I. The others--Yatchicomnes, +Passasimas, and Mokelumnes--were on solid ground, east of the sloughs. +Their habitat probably extended inland from the delta for some distance. +We know that the Mokelumnes inhabited the river of that name for many +miles upstream. + +[34] The sand dunes between Antioch and Oakley, extending some distance +up Marsh Cr. The name is still current as applied to the land grant made +to John Marsh. + +[35] The reader will observe immediately that the point of view of a +soldier is very different from that of a priest. He will also note the +irritation inspired in the soldier by the priest. Despite the lengthy +apologies the soldier does not conceal his exasperation that he is +subordinate to the priest and that he is not permitted to go where +he wishes and explore as he sees fit. The criticism of Fr. Duran by +Arguello must be viewed in this light. + +[36] Duran says merely that the Commandante (Arguello) had "gone ahead" +and stopped at the mouth of the San Joaquin. He followed the "route +agreed upon" and stopped at the mouth of the Sacramento. + +[37] From the 15th to the 22nd the account of Arguello agrees within +reasonable limits with that of Duran. Differences in detail and emphasis +are to be expected and do not reflect upon the veracity of either +writer. For discussion of the route, reference may be made to the notes +(22-34 above) to Father Duran's manuscript. + +[38] The route followed by Arguello cannot be traced in detail. He seems +to have followed sloughs in a generally northwest direction until he +came upon the main stream of the Sacramento somewhere east of Grand I. +(Isla de los Quenemsias), perhaps near Isleton. The skirmish with the +Christian fugitives must have occurred in the Walnut Grove area. + +[39] According to Duran the meeting took place at the eastern entrance +to the Strait, near Martinez. + + + CHAPTER VII + (pp. 280-281) + +[1] Bancroft, in his Pioneer Register (1884-1890, IV: 777), says that +Jose Dolores Pico was sergeant of his company from 1811, and was wounded +on an expedition in 1815. In the Pioneer Register (ibid., III: 752-753) +he also says that Inocente Garcia was born in 1791 and was a soldier +from 1807-1813. Evidently, therefore, the events recounted here took +place somewhere from 1810-1813. + + + + +BIBLIOGRAPHY + + +PUBLISHED WORKS + + +Bancroft, H. H. + + 1884- History of California. 7 vols. San Francisco. + 1890. + +Bolton, H. E. + + 1926. Historical Memoirs of New California, by Fray Francisco + Palou. Trans. from the manuscript in the Archives of + Mexico. 4 vols. Berkeley, Calif. + + 1927. Fray Juan Crespi, Missionary Explorer on the Pacific Coast, + 1769-1774. Diaries and letters relating to expeditions of + Portola, Fages, and Perez. Berkeley, Calif. + +Cook, S. F. + + 1955. The Aboriginal Population of the San Joaquin Valley, + California. Univ. Calif. Anthro. Rec., 16 (1): 31-80. + +Coues, Elliott, ed. + + 1900. On the Trail of a Spanish Pioneer. [The diary of Francisco + Garces.] New York. + +Cutter, Donald C. + + MS. The Spanish Exploration of California's Central Valley. Ph.D. + diss. (1950). University of California, Berkeley. + + 1957. The Diary of Ensign Gabriel Moraga's Expedition of Discovery + in the Sacramento Valley, 1808. Los Angeles. + +Gayton, A. H. + + 1948. Yokuts and Western Mono Ethnography. Univ. Calif. Anthro. + Rec., Vol. 10. Berkeley, Calif. + + 1936. Estudillo among the Yokuts: 1819. _In_ Essays in Anthropology + in Honor of Alfred Louis Kroeber, pp. 67-85. Berkeley, + Calif. + +Gifford, E. W., and W. E. Schenck + + 1926. Archaeology of the Southern San Joaquin Valley, California. + Univ. Calif. Am. Arch. and Ethn., 23: 1-122. + +Kroeber, A. L. + + 1925. Handbook of the Indians of California. Bureau of American + Ethnology, Bulletin 78. + +Priestley, H. I. + + 1913. The Colorado River Campaign, 1781-1782: Diary of Pedro Fages. + Publs. of the Academy of Pacific Coast History. Berkeley, + Calif. + + 1937. A Historical, Political, and Natural Description of + California, by Pedro Fages, Soldier of Spain. Berkeley. + + 1946. Franciscan Explorations in California. Ed. by Lillian Estelle + Fisher. Glendale, Calif. + +Schenck, W. E. + + 1926. Historic Aboriginal Groups of the California Delta Region. + Univ. Calif. Publ. Am. Arch. and Ethn., 25 (2): 123-146. + + +MANUSCRIPTS + +Unless otherwise stated, all manuscripts are in the Bancroft Library, +Berkeley, California. + +Archives of California (Cal. Arch.) + Provincial Records, Vols. II, IV + + Provincial State Papers, Vols. XIV, XVI + + Provincial State Papers..., Benicia, Military, Vols. XIV, + XXXIII, XXXIV + + State Papers (Sacramento), Vol. II. + +Archivo del Arzobispado, San Francisco (Archbishop's Arch.), Vol. III + +Archivo de la Mision de Santa Barbara (Santa Barbara Arch.), Vols. IV, +VI + +De la Guerra Documentos + +Abella, Fr. Ramon + Diario de un registro de los Rios Grandes, October 15-31, + 1811, San Francisco. Santa Barbara Arch., IV: 101-134. + +Arguello, Luis Antonio + Letter to Governor Pablo Vicente de Sola, San Francisco, + May 26, 1817. + +Boronda, Jose Canuto + Notas historicas sobre California. 1878. + +Duran, Fr. Narciso + Diario de la expedicion de reconocimiento hecha en el mes + de Mayo de 1817.... + +Garcia, Felipe Santiago + Story of an Old Dragoon of Monterey. _In_ Alexander S. + Taylor, Discoverers, Founders and Pioneers of California, + 2: 141-151. + +Martinez, Fr. Luis Antonio + Letter to Prefect Sarria, San Luis Obispo, May 29, 1816. + _In_ Alexander S. Taylor Papers. Archbishop's Office, San + Francisco. Doc. 489. Photocopy in Bancroft Library. + +Moraga, Gabriel + Diary, September 25-October 23, 1808. Enclosed in letter + from Luis Arguello to Governor Arrillaga, San Francisco, + November 12, 1808. + +Olivera, Diego + No title. Clipping from an unidentified newspaper dated, + according to a penciled note, 1864. _In_ Alexander S. Taylor, + Discoverers, Founders and Pioneers of California 2: 153. + +Ortega, Juan + Diary, November 4-December 3, 1815. + +Palomares, Jose + Report on the Expedition to the Tulares. Arch. Prov. St. + Pap., Mis. and Col., I: 229-239. + +Pico, Jose Dolores + Diary, November 4-15, 1815. Mission San Juan Bautista, + December 3, 1815. + +Taylor, Alexander S. + Discoverers, Founders and Pioneers of California. Manuscripts + with clippings, pamphlets, maps, and pictures. 2 vols. + +Viader, Fr. Jose + Report, August 15-28, 1810. + + Report, October 19-27, 1810. + +Zalvidea, Fr. Jose Maria de + Diario de una expedicion tierra adentro, 1806. Santa + Barbara Arch., IV: 49-68. + + + + + * * * * * + + + + +Transcriber's note: + +Inconsistent spelling in the original work has been retained. + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COLONIAL EXPEDITIONS TO THE INTERIOR +OF CALIFORNIA CENTRAL VALLEY, 1800-1820*** + + +******* This file should be named 36387.txt or 36387.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/6/3/8/36387 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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