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+Project Gutenberg's John Bull on the Guadalquivir, by Anthony Trollope
+#13 in our series by Anthony Trollope
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+Title: John Bull on the Guadalquivir from Tales from all Countries
+
+Author: Anthony Trollope
+
+Release Date: January, 2003 [Etext #3615]
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+Project Gutenberg's John Bull on the Guadalquivir, by Anthony Trollope
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+
+JOHN BULL ON THE GUADALQUIVIR.
+from "Tales from all Countries"
+
+by Anthony Trollope
+
+
+
+
+I am an Englishman, living, as all Englishman should do, in England,
+and my wife would not, I think, be well pleased were any one to
+insinuate that she were other than an Englishwoman; but in the
+circumstances of my marriage I became connected with the south of
+Spain, and the narrative which I am to tell requires that I should
+refer to some of those details.
+
+The Pomfrets and Daguilars have long been in trade together in this
+country, and one of the partners has usually resided at Seville for
+the sake of the works which the firm there possesses. My father,
+James Pomfret, lived there for ten years before his marriage; and
+since that and up to the present period, old Mr. Daguilar has always
+been on the spot. He was, I believe, born in Spain, but he came very
+early to England; he married an English wife, and his sons had been
+educated exclusively in England. His only daughter, Maria Daguilar,
+did not pass so large a proportion of her early life in this country,
+but she came to us for a visit at the age of seventeen, and when she
+returned I made up my mind that I most assuredly would go after her.
+So I did, and she is now sitting on the other side of the fireplace
+with a legion of small linen habiliments in a huge basket by her
+side.
+
+I felt, at the first, that there was something lacking to make my cup
+of love perfectly delightful. It was very sweet, but there was
+wanting that flower of romance which is generally added to the
+heavenly draught by a slight admixture of opposition. I feared that
+the path of my true love would run too smooth. When Maria came to
+our house, my mother and elder sister seemed to be quite willing that
+I should be continually alone with her; and she had not been there
+ten days before my father, by chance, remarked that there was nothing
+old Mr. Daguilar valued so highly as a thorough feeling of intimate
+alliance between the two families which had been so long connected in
+trade. I was never told that Maria was to be my wife, but I felt
+that the same thing was done without words; and when, after six weeks
+of somewhat elaborate attendance upon her, I asked her to be Mrs.
+John Pomfret, I had no more fear of a refusal, or even of hesitation
+on her part, than I now have when I suggest to my partner some
+commercial transaction of undoubted advantage.
+
+But Maria, even at that age, had about her a quiet sustained decision
+of character quite unlike anything I had seen in English girls. I
+used to hear, and do still hear, how much more flippant is the
+education of girls in France and Spain than in England; and I know
+that this is shown to be the result of many causes--the Roman
+Catholic religion being, perhaps, chief offender; but, nevertheless,
+I rarely see in one of our own young women the same power of a self-
+sustained demeanour as I meet on the Continent. It goes no deeper
+than the demeanour, people say. I can only answer that I have not
+found that shallowness in my own wife.
+
+Miss Daguilar replied to me that she was not prepared with an answer;
+she had only known me six weeks, and wanted more time to think about
+it; besides, there was one in her own country with whom she would
+wish to consult. I knew she had no mother; and as for consulting old
+Mr. Daguilar on such a subject, that idea, I knew, could not have
+troubled her. Besides, as I afterwards learned, Mr. Daguilar had
+already proposed the marriage to his partner exactly as he would have
+proposed a division of assets. My mother declared that Maria was a
+foolish chit--in which by-the-bye she showed her entire ignorance of
+Miss Daguilar's character; my eldest sister begged that no constraint
+might he put on the young lady's inclinations--which provoked me to
+assert that the young lady's inclinations were by no means opposed to
+my own; and my father, in the coolest manner suggested that the
+matter might stand over for twelve months, and that I might then go
+to Seville, and see about it! Stand over for twelve months! Would
+not Maria, long before that time, have been snapped up and carried
+off by one of those inordinately rich Spanish grandees who are still
+to be met with occasionally in Andalucia?
+
+My father's dictum, however, had gone forth; and Maria, in the
+calmest voice, protested that she thought it very wise. I should be
+less of a boy by that time, she said, smiling on me, but driving
+wedges between every fibre of my body as she spoke. "Be it so," I
+said, proudly. "At any rate, I am not so much of a boy that I shall
+forget you." "And, John, you still have the trade to learn," she
+added, with her deliciously foreign intonation--speaking very slowly,
+but with perfect pronunciation. The trade to learn! However, I said
+not a word, but stalked out of the room, meaning to see her no more
+before she went. But I could not resist attending on her in the hall
+as she started; and, when she took leave of us, she put her face up
+to be kissed by me, as she did by my father, and seemed to receive as
+much emotion from one embrace as from the other. "He'll go out by
+the packet of the 1st April," said my father, speaking of me as
+though I were a bale of goods. "Ah! that will be so nice," said
+Maria, settling her dress in the carriage; "the oranges will be ripe
+for him then!"
+
+On the 17th April I did sail, and felt still very like a bale of
+goods. I had received one letter from her, in which she merely
+stated that her papa would have a room ready for me on my arrival;
+and, in answer to that, I had sent an epistle somewhat longer, and,
+as I then thought, a little more to the purpose. Her turn of mind
+was more practical than mine, and I must confess my belief that she
+did not appreciate my poetry.
+
+I landed at Cadiz, and was there joined by an old family friend, one
+of the very best fellows that ever lived. He was to accompany me up
+as far as Seville; and, as he had lived for a year or two at Xeres,
+was supposed to be more Spanish almost than a Spaniard. His name was
+Johnson, and he was in the wine trade; and whether for travelling or
+whether for staying at home--whether for paying you a visit in your
+own house, or whether for entertaining you in his--there never was
+(and I am prepared to maintain there never will be) a stancher
+friend, choicer companion, or a safer guide than Thomas Johnson.
+Words cannot produce a eulogium sufficient for his merits. But, as I
+have since learned, he was not quite so Spanish as I had imagined.
+Three years among the bodegas of Xeres had taught him, no doubt, to
+appreciate the exact twang of a good, dry sherry; but not, as I now
+conceive, the exactest flavour of the true Spanish character. I was
+very lucky, however, in meeting such a friend, and now reckon him as
+one of the stanchest allies of the house of Pomfret, Daguilar, and
+Pomfret.
+
+He met me at Cadiz, took me about the town, which appeared to me to
+be of no very great interest;--though the young ladies were all very
+well. But, in this respect, I was then a Stoic, till such time as I
+might be able to throw myself at the feet of her whom I was ready to
+proclaim the most lovely of all the Dulcineas of Andalucia. He
+carried me up by boat and railway to Xeres; gave me a most terrific
+headache, by dragging me out into the glare of the sun, after I had
+tasted some half a dozen different wines, and went through all the
+ordinary hospitalities. On the next day we returned to Puerto, and
+from thence getting across to St. Lucar and Bonanza, found ourselves
+on the banks of the Guadalquivir, and took our places in the boat for
+Seville. I need say but little to my readers respecting that far-
+famed river. Thirty years ago we in England generally believed that
+on its banks was to be found a pure elysium of pastoral beauty; that
+picturesque shepherds and lovely maidens here fed their flocks in
+fields of asphodel; that the limpid stream ran cool and crystal over
+bright stones and beneath perennial shade; and that every thing on
+the Guadalquivir was as lovely and as poetical as its name. Now, it
+is pretty widely known that no uglier river oozes down to its bourn
+in the sea through unwholesome banks of low mud. It is brown and
+dirty; ungifted by any scenic advantage; margined for miles upon
+miles by huge, flat, expansive fields, in which cattle are reared,--
+the bulls wanted for the bullfights among other; and birds of prey
+sit constant on the shore, watching for the carcases of such as die.
+Such are the charms of the golden Guadalquivir.
+
+At first we were very dull on board that steamer. I never found
+myself in a position in which there was less to do. There was a
+nasty smell about the little boat which made me almost ill; every
+turn in the river was so exactly like the last, that we might have
+been standing still; there was no amusement except eating, and that,
+when once done, was not of a kind to make an early repetition
+desirable. Even Johnson was becoming dull, and I began to doubt
+whether I was so desirous as I once had been to travel the length and
+breadth of all Spain. But about noon a little incident occurred
+which did for a time remove some of our tedium. The boat had stopped
+to take in passengers on the river; and, among others, a man had come
+on board dressed in a fashion that, to my eyes, was equally strange
+and picturesque. Indeed, his appearance was so singular, that I
+could not but regard him with care, though I felt at first averse to
+stare at a fellow-passenger on account of his clothes. He was a man
+of about fifty, but as active apparently as though not more than
+twenty five; he was of low stature, but of admirable make; his hair
+was just becoming grizzled, but was short and crisp and well cared
+for; his face was prepossessing, having a look of good humour added
+to courtesy, and there was a pleasant, soft smile round his mouth
+which ingratiated one at the first sight. But it was his dress
+rather than his person which attracted attention. He wore the
+ordinary Andalucian cap--of which such hideous parodies are now
+making themselves common in England--but was not contented with the
+usual ornament of the double tuft. The cap was small, and jaunty;
+trimmed with silk velvet--as is common here with men careful to adorn
+their persons; but this man's cap was finished off with a jewelled
+button and golden filigree work. He was dressed in a short jacket
+with a stand up collar; and that also was covered with golden buttons
+and with golden button-holes. It was all gilt down the front, and
+all lace down the back. The rows of buttons were double; and those
+of the more backward row hung down in heavy pendules. His waistcoat
+was of coloured silk--very pretty to look at; and ornamented with a
+small sash, through which gold threads were worked. All the buttons
+of his breeches also were of gold; and there were gold tags to all
+the button-holes. His stockings were of the finest silk, and clocked
+with gold from the knee to the ankle.
+
+Dress any Englishman in such a garb and he will at once give you the
+idea of a hog in armour. In the first place he will lack the proper
+spirit to carry it off, and in the next place the motion of his limbs
+will disgrace the ornaments they bear. "And so best," most
+Englishmen will say. Very likely; and, therefore, let no Englishman
+try it. But my Spaniard did not look at like a hog in armour. He
+walked slowly down the plank into the boat, whistling lowly but very
+clearly a few bars from a opera tune. It was plain to see that he
+was master of himself, of his ornaments, and of his limbs. He had no
+appearance of thinking that men were looking at him, or of feeling
+that he was beauteous in his attire;--nothing could be more natural
+than his foot-fall, or the quiet glance of his cheery gray eye. He
+walked up to the captain, who held the helm, and lightly raised his
+hand to his cap. The captain, taking one hand from the wheel, did
+the same, and then the stranger, turning his back to the stern of the
+vessel, and fronting down the river with his face, continued to
+whistle slowly, clearly, and in excellent time. Grand as were his
+clothes they were no burden on his mind.
+
+"What is he?" said I, going up to my friend Johnson with a whisper.
+
+"Well, I've been looking at him," said Johnson--which was true
+enough; "he's a -- an uncommonly good-looking fellow, isn't he?"
+
+"Particularly so," said I; "and got up quite irrespective of expense.
+Is he a--a--a gentleman, now, do you think?"
+
+"Well, those things are so different in Spain that it's almost
+impossible to make an Englishman understand them. One learns to know
+all this sort of people by being with them in the country, but one
+can't explain."
+
+"No; exactly. Are they real gold?"
+
+"Yes, yes; I dare say they are. They sometimes have them silver
+gilt."
+
+"It is quite a common thing, then, isn't it?" asked I.
+
+"Well, not exactly; that--Ah! yes; I see! of course. He is a
+torero."
+
+"A what?"
+
+"A mayo. I will explain it all to you. You will see them about in
+all places, and you will get used to them."
+
+"But I haven't seen one other as yet."
+
+"No, and they are not all so gay as this, nor so new in their finery,
+you know."
+
+"And what is a torero?"
+
+"Well, a torero is a man engaged in bull-fighting."
+
+"Oh! he is a matador, is he?" said I, looking at him with more than
+all my eyes.
+
+"No, not exactly that;--not of necessity. He is probably a mayo. A
+fellow that dresses himself smart for fairs, and will be seen hanging
+about with the bull-fighters. What would be a sporting fellow in
+England--only he won't drink and curse like a low man on the turf
+there. Come, shall we go and speak to him?"
+
+"I can't talk to him," said I, diffident of my Spanish. I had
+received lessons in England from Maria Daguilar; but six weeks is
+little enough for making love, let alone the learning of a foreign
+language.
+
+"Oh! I'll do the talking. You'll find the language easy enough
+before long. It soon becomes the same as English to you, when you
+live among them." And then Johnson, walking up to the stranger,
+accosted him with that good-natured familiarity with which a
+thoroughly nice fellow always opens a conversation with his inferior.
+Of course I could not understand the words which were exchanged; but
+it was clear enough that the "mayo" took the address in good part,
+and was inclined to be communicative and social.
+
+"They are all of pure gold," said Johnson, turning to me after a
+minute, making as he spoke a motion with his head to show the
+importance of the information.
+
+"Are they indeed?" said I. "Where on earth did a fellow like that
+get them?" Whereupon Johnson again returned to his conversation with
+the man. After another minute he raised his hand, and began to
+finger the button on the shoulder; and to aid him in doing so, the
+man of the bull-ring turned a little on one side.
+
+"They are wonderfully well made," said Johnson, talking to me, and
+still fingering the button. "They are manufactured, he says, at
+Osuna, and he tells me that they make them better there than anywhere
+else."
+
+"I wonder what the whole set would cost?" said I. "An enormous deal
+of money for a fellow like him, I should think!"
+
+"Over twelve ounces," said Johnson, having asked the question; "and
+that will be more than forty pounds."
+
+"What an uncommon ass he must be!" said I.
+
+As Johnson by this time was very closely scrutinising the whole set
+of ornaments I thought I might do so also, and going up close to our
+friend, I too began to handle the buttons and tags on the other side.
+Nothing could have been more good-humoured than he was--so much so
+that I was emboldened to hold up his arm that I might see the cut of
+his coat, to take off his cap and examine the make, to stuff my
+finger in beneath his sash, and at last to kneel down while I
+persuaded him to hold up his legs that I might look to the clocking.
+The fellow was thorough good-natured, and why should I not indulge my
+curiosity?
+
+"You'll upset him if you don't take care," said Johnson; for I had
+got fast hold of him by one ankle, and was determined to finish the
+survey completely.
+
+"Oh, no, I shan't," said I; "a bull-fighting chap can surely stand on
+one leg. But what I wonder at is, how on earth he can afford it!"
+Whereupon Johnson again began to interrogate him in Spanish.
+
+"He says he has got no children," said Johnson, having received a
+reply, "and that as he has nobody but himself to look after, he is
+able to allow himself such little luxuries."
+
+"Tell him that I say he would be better with a wife and couple of
+babies," said I--and Johnson interpreted.
+
+"He says that he'll think of it some of these days, when he finds
+that the supply of fools in the world is becoming short," said
+Johnson.
+
+We had nearly done with him now; but after regaining my feet, I
+addressed myself once more to the heavy pendules, which hung down
+almost under his arm. I lifted one of these, meaning to feel its
+weight between my fingers; but unfortunately I gave a lurch, probably
+through the motion of the boat, and still holding by the button, tore
+it almost off from our friend's coat.
+
+"Oh, I am so sorry," I said, in broad English.
+
+"It do not matter at all," he said, bowing, and speaking with equal
+plainness. And then, taking a knife from his pocket, he cut the
+pendule off, leaving a bit of torn cloth on the side of his jacket.
+
+"Upon my word, I am quite unhappy," said I; "but I always am so
+awkward." Whereupon he bowed low.
+
+"Couldn't I make it right?" said I, bringing out my purse.
+
+He lifted his hand, and I saw that it was small and white; he lifted
+it and gently put it upon my purse, smiling sweetly as he did so.
+"Thank you, no, senor; thank you, no." And then, bowing to us both,
+he walked away down into the cabin.
+
+"Upon my word he is a deuced well-mannered fellow," said I.
+
+"You shouldn't have offered him money," said Johnson; "a Spaniard
+does not like it."
+
+"Why, I thought you could do nothing without money in this country.
+Doesn't every one take bribes?"
+
+"Ah! yes; that is a different thing; but not the price of a button.
+By Jove! he understood English, too. Did you see that?"
+
+"Yes; and I called him an ass! I hope he doesn't mind it."
+
+"Oh! no; he won't think anything about it," said Johnson. "That sort
+of fellows don't. I dare say we shall see him in the bull-ring next
+Sunday, and then we'll make all right with a glass of lemonade."
+
+And so our adventure ended with the man of the gold ornaments. I was
+sorry that I had spoken English before him so heedlessly, and
+resolved that I would never be guilty of such gaucherie again. But,
+then, who would think that a Spanish bull-fighter would talk a
+foreign language? I was sorry, also, that I had torn his coat; it
+had looked so awkward; and sorry again that I had offered the man
+money. Altogether I was a little ashamed of myself; but I had too
+much to look forward to at Seville to allow any heaviness to remain
+long at my heart; and before I had arrived at the marvellous city I
+had forgotten both him and his buttons.
+
+Nothing could be nicer than the way in which I was welcomed at Mr.
+Daguilar's house, or more kind--I may almost say affectionate--than
+Maria's manner to me. But it was too affectionate; and I am not sure
+that I should not have liked my reception better had she been more
+diffident in her tone, and less inclined to greet me with open
+warmth. As it was, she again gave me her cheek to kiss, in her
+father's presence, and called me dear John, and asked me specially
+after some rabbits which I had kept at home merely for a younger
+sister; and then it seemed as though she were in no way embarrassed
+by the peculiar circumstances of our position. Twelve months since I
+had asked her to be my wife, and now she was to give me an answer;
+and yet she was as assured in her gait, and as serenely joyous in her
+tone, as though I were a brother just returned from college. It
+could not be that she meant to refuse me, or she would not smile on
+me and be so loving; but I could almost have found it in my heart to
+wish that she would. "It is quite possible," said I to myself, "that
+I may not be found so ready for this family bargain. A love that is
+to be had like a bale of goods is not exactly the love to suit my
+taste." But then, when I met her again in the morning I could no
+more have quarrelled with her than I could have flown.
+
+I was inexpressibly charmed with the whole city, and especially with
+the house in which Mr. Daguilar lived. It opened from the corner of
+a narrow, unfrequented street--a corner like an elbow--and, as seen
+from the exterior, there was nothing prepossessing to recommend it;
+but the outer door led by a short hall or passage to an inner door or
+grille, made of open ornamental iron-work, and through that we
+entered a court, or patio, as they I called it. Nothing could be
+more lovely or deliciously cool than was this small court. The
+building on each side was covered by trellis-work; and beautiful
+creepers, vines, and parasite flowers, now in the full magnificence
+of the early summer, grew up and clustered round the windows. Every
+inch of wall was covered, so that none of the glaring whitewash
+wounded the eye. In the four corners of the patio were four large
+orange-trees, covered with fruit. I would not say a word in special
+praise of these, remembering that childish promise she had made on my
+behalf. In the middle of the court there was a fountain, and round
+about on the marble floor there were chairs, and here and there a
+small table, as though the space were really a portion of the house.
+It was here that we used to take our cup of coffee and smoke our
+cigarettes, I and old Mr. Daguilar, while Maria sat by, not only
+approving, but occasionally rolling for me the thin paper round the
+fragrant weed with her taper fingers. Beyond the patio was an open
+passage or gallery, filled also with flowers in pots; and then,
+beyond this, one entered the drawing-room of the house. It was by no
+means a princely palace or mansion, fit for the owner of untold
+wealth. The rooms were not over large nor very numerous; but the
+most had been made of a small space, and everything had been done to
+relieve the heat of an almost tropical sun.
+
+"It is pretty, is it not?" she said, as she took me through it.
+
+"Very pretty," I said. "I wish we could live in such houses."
+
+"Oh, they would not do at all for dear old fat, cold, cozy England.
+You are quite different, you know, in everything from us in the
+south; more phlegmatic, but then so much steadier. The men and the
+houses are all the same."
+
+I can hardly tell why, but even this wounded me. It seemed to me as
+though she were inclined to put into one and the same category things
+English, dull, useful, and solid; and that she was disposed to show a
+sufficient appreciation for such necessaries of life, though she
+herself had another and inner sense--a sense keenly alive to the
+poetry of her own southern chime; and that I, as being English, was
+to have no participation in this latter charm. An English husband
+might do very well, the interests of the firm might make such an
+arrangement desirable, such a mariage de convenance--so I argued to
+myself--might be quite compatible with--with heaven only knows what
+delights of superterrestial romance, from which I, as being an
+English thick-headed lump of useful coarse mortality, was to be
+altogether debarred. She had spoken to me of oranges, and having
+finished the survey of the house, she offered me some sweet little
+cakes. It could not be that of such things were the thoughts which
+lay undivulged beneath the clear waters of those deep black eyes--
+undivulged to me, though no one else could have so good a right to
+read those thoughts! It could not be that that noble brow gave index
+of a mind intent on the trade of which she spoke so often! Words of
+other sort than any that had been vouchsafed to me must fall at times
+from the rich curves of that perfect month.
+
+So felt I then, pining for something to make me unhappy. Ah, me! I
+know all about it now, and am content. But I wish that some learned
+pundit would give us a good definition of romance, would describe in
+words that feeling with which our hearts are so pestered when we are
+young, which makes us sigh for we know not what, and forbids us to be
+contented with what God sends us. We invest female beauty with
+impossible attributes, and are angry because our women have not the
+spiritualised souls of angels, anxious as we are that they should
+also be human in the flesh. A man looks at her he would love as at a
+distant landscape in a mountainous land. The peaks are glorious with
+more than the beauty of earth and rock and vegetation. He dreams of
+some mysterious grandeur of design which tempts him on under the hot
+sun, and over the sharp rock, till he has reached the mountain goal
+which he had set before him. But when there, he finds that the
+beauty is well-nigh gone, and as for that delicious mystery on which
+his soul had fed, it has vanished for ever.
+
+I know all about it now, and am, as I said, content. Beneath those
+deep black eyes there lay a well of love, good, honest, homely love,
+love of father and husband and children that were to come--of that
+love which loves to see the loved ones prospering in honesty. That
+noble brow--for it is noble; I am unchanged in that opinion, and will
+go unchanged to my grave--covers thoughts as to the welfare of many,
+and an intellect fitted to the management of a household, of
+servants, namely, and children, and perchance a husband. That mouth
+can speak words of wisdom, of very useful wisdom--though of poetry it
+has latterly uttered little that was original. Poetry and romance!
+They are splendid mountain views seen in the distance. So let men be
+content to see them, and not attempt to tread upon the fallacious
+heather of the mystic hills.
+
+In the first week of my sojourn in Seville I spoke no word of overt
+love to Maria, thinking, as I confess, to induce her thereby to alter
+her mode of conduct to myself. "She knows that I have come here to
+make love to her--to repeat my offer; and she will at any rate be
+chagrined if I am slow to do so." But it had no effect. At home my
+mother was rather particular about her table, and Maria's greatest
+efforts seemed to be used in giving me as nice dinners as we gave
+her. In those days I did not care a straw about my dinner, and so I
+took an opportunity of telling her. "Dear me," said she, looking at
+me almost with grief, "do you not? What a pity! And do you not like
+music either." "Oh, yes, I adore it," I replied. I felt sure at the
+time that had I been born in her own sunny clime, she would never
+have talked to me about eating. But that was my mistake.
+
+I used to walk out with her about the city, seeing all that is there
+of beauty and magnificence. And in what city is there more that is
+worth the seeing? At first this was very delightful to me, for I
+felt that I was blessed with a privilege that would not be granted to
+any other man. But its value soon fell in my eyes, for others would
+accost her, and walk on the other side, talking to her in Spanish, as
+though I hardly existed, or were a servant there for her protection.
+And I was not allowed to take her arm, and thus to appropriate her,
+as I should have done in England. "No, John," she said, with the
+sweetest, prettiest smile, "we don't do that here; only when people
+are married." And she made this allusion to married life out,
+openly, with no slightest tremor on her tongue.
+
+"Oh, I beg pardon," said I, drawing back my hand, and feeling angry
+with myself for not being fully acquainted with all the customs of a
+foreign country.
+
+"You need not beg pardon," said she; "when we were in England we
+always walked so. It is just a custom, you know." And then I saw
+her drop her large dark eyes to the ground, and bow gracefully in
+answer to some salute.
+
+I looked round, and saw that we had been joined by a young cavalier,-
+-a Spanish nobleman, as I saw at once; a man with jet black hair, and
+a straight nose, and a black moustache, and patent leather boots,
+very slim and very tall, and--though I would not confess it then--
+uncommonly handsome. I myself am inclined to be stout, my hair is
+light, my nose broad, I have no hair on my upper lip, and my whiskers
+are rough and uneven. "I could punch your head though, my fine
+fellow," said I to myself, when I saw that he placed himself at
+Maria's side, "and think very little of the achievement."
+
+The wretch went on with us round the plaza for some quarter of an
+hour talking Spanish with the greatest fluency, and she was every
+whit as fluent. Of course I could not understand a word that they
+said. Of all positions that a man can occupy, I think that that is
+about the most uncomfortable; and I cannot say that, even up to this
+day, I have quite forgiven her for that quarter of an hour.
+
+"I shall go in," said I, unable to bear my feelings, and preparing to
+leave her. "The heat is unendurable."
+
+"Oh dear, John, why did you not speak before?" she answered. "You
+cannot leave me here, you know, as I am in your charge; but I will go
+with you almost directly." And then she finished her conversation
+with the Spaniard, speaking with an animation she had never displayed
+in her conversations with me.
+
+It had been agreed between us for two or three days before this, that
+we were to rise early on the following morning for the sake of
+ascending the tower of the cathedral, and visiting the Giralda, as
+the iron figure is called, which turns upon a pivot on the extreme
+summit. We had often wandered together up and down the long dark
+gloomy aisle of the stupendous building, and had, together, seen its
+treasury of art; but as yet we had not performed the task which has
+to be achieved by all visitors to Seville; and in order that we might
+have a clear view over the surrounding country, and not be tormented
+by the heat of an advanced sun, we had settled that we would ascend
+the Giralda before breakfast.
+
+And now, as I walked away from the plaza towards Mr. Daguilar's
+house, with Maria by my side, I made up my mind that I would settle
+my business during this visit to the cathedral. Yes, and I would so
+manage the settlement that there should be no doubt left as to my
+intentions and my own ideas. I would not be guilty of shilly-shally
+conduct; I would tell her frankly what I felt and what I thought, and
+would make her understand that I did not desire her hand if I could
+not have her heart. I did not value the kindness of her manner,
+seeing that that kindness sprung from indifference rather than
+passion; and so I would declare to her. And I would ask her, also,
+who was this young man with whom she was intimate--for whom all her
+volubility and energy of tone seemed to be employed? She had told me
+once that it behoved her to consult a friend in Seville as to the
+expediency of her marriage with me. Was this the friend whom she had
+wished to consult? If so, she need not trouble herself. Under such
+circumstances I should decline the connection! And I resolved that I
+would find out how this might be. A man who proposes to take a woman
+to his bosom as his wife, has a right to ask for information--ay, and
+to receive it too. It flashed upon my mind at this moment that Donna
+Maria was well enough inclined to come to me as my wife, but --. I
+could hardly define the "buts" to myself, for there were three or
+four of them. Why did she always speak to me in a tone of childish
+affection, as though I were a schoolboy home for the holidays? I
+would have all this out with her on the tower on the following
+morning, standing under the Giralda.
+
+On that morning we met together in the patio, soon after five
+o'clock, and started for the cathedral. She looked beautiful, with
+her black mantilla over her head, and with black gloves on, and her
+black morning silk dress--beautiful, composed, and at her ease, as
+though she were well satisfied to undertake this early morning walk
+from feelings of good nature--sustained, probably, by some under-
+current of a deeper sentiment. Well; I would know all about it
+before I returned to her father's house.
+
+There hardly stands, as I think, on the earth, a building more
+remarkable than the cathedral of Seville, and hardly one more grand.
+Its enormous size; its gloom and darkness; the richness of
+ornamentation in the details, contrasted with the severe simplicity
+of the larger outlines; the variety of its architecture; the glory of
+its paintings; and the wondrous splendour of its metallic decoration,
+its altar-friezes, screens, rails, gates, and the like, render it, to
+my mind, the first in interest among churches. It has not the
+coloured glass of Chartres, or the marble glory of Milan, or such a
+forest of aisles as Antwerp, or so perfect a hue in stone as
+Westminster, nor in mixed beauty of form and colour does it possess
+anything equal to the choir of Cologne; but, for combined
+magnificence and awe-compelling grandeur, I regard it as superior to
+all other ecclesiastical edifices.
+
+It is its deep gloom with which the stranger is so greatly struck on
+his first entrance. In a region so hot as the south of Spain, a cool
+interior is a main object with the architect, and this it has been
+necessary to effect by the exclusion of light; consequently the
+church is dark, mysterious, and almost cold. On the morning in
+question, as we entered, it seemed to be filled with gloom, and the
+distant sound of a slow footstep here and there beyond the transept
+inspired one almost with awe. Maria, when she first met me, had
+begun to talk with her usual smile, offering me coffee and a biscuit
+before I started. "I never eat biscuit," I said, with almost a
+severe tone, as I turned from her. That dark, horrid man of the
+plaza--would she have offered him a cake had she been going to walk
+with him in the gloom of the morning? After that little had been
+spoken between us. She walked by my side with her accustomed smile;
+but she had, as I flattered myself, begun to learn that I was not to
+he won by a meaningless good nature. "We are lucky in our morning
+for the view!" that was all she said, speaking with that peculiarly
+clear, but slow pronunciation which she had assumed in learning our
+language.
+
+We entered the cathedral, and, walking the whole length of the aisle,
+left it again at the porter's porch at the farther end. Here we
+passed through a low door on to the stone flight of steps, and at
+once began to ascend. "There are a party of your countrymen up
+before us," said Maria; "the porter says that they went through the
+lodge half an hour since." "I hope they will return before we are on
+the top," said I, bethinking myself of the task that was before me.
+And indeed my heart was hardly at ease within me, for that which I
+had to say would require all the spirit of which I was master.
+
+The ascent to the Giralda is very long and very fatiguing; and we had
+to pause on the various landings and in the singular belfry in order
+that Miss Daguilar might recruit her strength and breath. As we
+rested on one of these occasions, in a gallery which runs round the
+tower below the belfry, we heard a great noise of shouting, and a
+clattering of sticks among the bells. "It is the party of your
+countrymen who went up before us," said she. "What a pity that
+Englishmen should always make so much noise!" And then she spoke in
+Spanish to the custodian of the bells, who is usually to be found in
+a little cabin up there within the tower. "He says that they went up
+shouting like demons," continued Maria; and it seemed to me that she
+looked as though I ought to be ashamed of the name of an Englishman.
+"They may not be so solemn in their demeanour as Spaniards," I
+answered; "but, for all that, there may be quite as much in them."
+
+We then again began to mount, and before we had ascended much farther
+we passed my three countrymen. They were young men, with gray coats
+and gray trousers, with slouched hats, and without gloves. They had
+fair faces and fair hair, and swung big sticks in their hands, with
+crooked handles. They laughed and talked loud, and, when we met
+them, seemed to be racing with each other; but nevertheless they were
+gentlemen. No one who knows by sight what an English gentleman is,
+could have doubted that; but I did acknowledge to myself that they
+should have remembered that the edifice they were treading was a
+church, and that the silence they were invading was the cherished
+property of a courteous people.
+
+"They are all just the same as big boys," said Maria. The colour
+instantly flew into my face, and I felt that it was my duty to speak
+up for my own countrymen. The word "boys" especially wounded my
+ears. It was as a boy that she treated me; but, on looking at that
+befringed young Spanish Don--who was not, apparently, my elder in
+age--she had recognised a man. However, I said nothing further till
+I reached the summit. One cannot speak with manly dignity while one
+is out of breath on a staircase.
+
+"There, John," she said, stretching her hands away over the fair
+plain of the Guadalquivir, as soon as we stood against the parapet;
+"is not that lovely?"
+
+I would not deign to notice this. "Maria," I said, "I think that you
+are too hard upon my countrymen?"
+
+"Too hard! no; for I love them. They are so good and industrious;
+and come home to their wives, and take care of their children. But
+why do they make themselves so--so--what the French call gauche?"
+
+"Good and industrious, and come home to their wives!" thought I. "I
+believe you hardly understand us as yet," I answered. "Our domestic
+virtues are not always so very prominent; but, I believe, we know how
+to conduct ourselves as gentlemen: at any rate, as well as
+Spaniards." I was very angry--not at the faults, but at the good
+qualities imputed to us.
+
+"In affairs of business, yes," said Maria, with a look of firm
+confidence in her own opinion--that look of confidence which she has
+never lost, and I pray that she may never lose it while I remain with
+her--"but in the little intercourses of the world, no! A Spaniard
+never forgets what is personally due either to himself or his
+neighbours. If he is eating an onion, he eats it as an onion should
+be eaten."
+
+"In such matters as that he is very grand, no doubt," said I,
+angrily.
+
+"And why should you not eat an onion properly, John? Now, I heard a
+story yesterday from Don--about two Englishmen, which annoyed me very
+much." I did not exactly catch the name of the Don in question but I
+felt through every nerve in my body that it was the man who had been
+talking to her on the plaza.
+
+"And what have they done?" said I. "But it is the same everywhere.
+We are always abused; but, nevertheless, no people are so welcome.
+At any rate, we pay for the mischief we do." I was angry with myself
+the moment the words were out of my mouth, for, after all, there is
+no feeling more mean than that pocket-confidence with which an
+Englishman sometimes swaggers.
+
+"There was no mischief done in this case," she answered. "It was
+simply that two men have made themselves ridiculous for ever. The
+story is all about Seville, and, of course, it annoys me that they
+should be Englishmen."
+
+"And what did they do?"
+
+"The Marquis D'Almavivas was coming up to Seville in the boat, and
+they behaved to him in the most outrageous manner. He is here now
+and is going to give a series of fetes. Of course he will not ask a
+single Englishman."
+
+"We shall manage to live even though the Marquis D'Almavivas may
+frown upon us," said I, proudly.
+
+"He is the richest, and also the best of our noblemen," continued
+Maria; "and I never heard of anything so absurd as what they did to
+him. It made me blush when Don -- told me." Don Tomas, I thought
+she said.
+
+"If he be the best of your noblemen, how comes it that he is angry
+because he has met two vulgar men? It is not to be supposed that
+every Englishman is a gentleman."
+
+"Angry! Oh, no! he was not angry; he enjoyed the joke too much for
+that. He got completely the best of them, though they did not know
+it; poor fools! How would your Lord John Russell behave if two
+Spaniards in an English railway carriage were to pull him about and
+tear his clothes?"
+
+"He would give them in charge to a policeman, of course," said I,
+speaking of such a matter with the contempt it deserved.
+
+"If that were done here your ambassador would be demanding national
+explanations. But Almavivas did much better;--he laughed at them
+without letting them know it."
+
+"But do you mean that they took hold of him violently, without any
+provocation? They must have been drunk."
+
+"Oh, no, they were sober enough. I did not see it, so I do not quite
+know exactly how it was, but I understand that they committed
+themselves most absurdly, absolutely took hold of his coat and tore
+it, and--; but they did such ridiculous things that I cannot tell
+you." And yet Don Tomas, if that was the man's name, had been able
+to tell her, and she had been able to listen to him.
+
+"'What made them take hold of the marquis?" said I.
+
+"Curiosity, I suppose," she answered. "He dresses somewhat
+fancifully, and they could not understand that any one should wear
+garments different from their own." But even then the blow did not
+strike home upon me.
+
+"Is it not pretty to look down upon the quiet town?" she said, coming
+close up to me, so that the skirt of her dress pressed me, and her
+elbow touched my arm. Now was the moment I should have asked her how
+her heart stood towards me; but I was sore and uncomfortable, and my
+destiny was before me. She was willing enough to let these English
+faults pass without further notice, but I would not allow the subject
+I drop.
+
+"I will find out who these men were," said I, "and learn the truth of
+it. When did it occur?"
+
+"Last Thursday, I think he said."
+
+"Why, that was the day we came up in the boat, Johnson and myself.
+There was no marquis there then, and we were the only Englishmen on
+board."
+
+"It was on Thursday, certainly, because it was well known in Seville
+that he arrived on that day. You must have remarked him because he
+talks English perfectly--though by-the-bye, these men would go on
+chattering before him about himself as though it were impossible that
+a Spaniard should know their language. They are ignorant of Spanish,
+and they cannot bring themselves to believe that any one should be
+better educated than themselves."
+
+Now the blow had fallen, and I straightway appreciated the necessity
+of returning immediately to Clapham where my family resided, and
+giving up for ever all idea of Spanish connections. I had resolved
+to assert the full strength of my manhood on that tower, and now
+words had been spoken which left me weak as a child. I felt that I
+was shivering, and did not dare to pronounce the truth which must be
+made known. As to speaking of love, and signifying my pleasure that
+Don Tomas should for the future be kept at a distance, any such
+effort was quite beyond me. Had Don Tomas been there, he might have
+walked off with her from before my face without a struggle on my
+part. "Now I remember about it," she continued, "I think he must
+have been in the boat on Thursday."
+
+"And now that I remember," I replied, turning away to hide my
+embarrassment, "he was there. Your friend down below in the plaza
+seems to have made out a grand story. No doubt he is not fond of the
+English. There was such a man there, and I did take hold--"
+
+"Oh, John, was it you?"
+
+"Yes, Donna Maria, it was I; and if Lord John Russell were to dress
+himself in the same way--" But I had no time to complete my
+description of what might occur under so extravagantly impossible a
+combination of circumstances, for as I was yet speaking, the little
+door leading out on to the leads of the tower was opened and my
+friend, the mayo of the boat, still bearing gewgaws on his back,
+stepped up on to the platform. My eye instantly perceived that the
+one pendule was still missing from his jacket. He did not come
+alone, but three other gentlemen followed him, who, however, had no
+peculiarities in their dress. He saw me at once and bowed and
+smiled; and then observing Donna Maria, he lifted his cap from his
+head, and addressing himself to her in Spanish, began to converse
+with her as though she were an old friend.
+
+"Senor," said Maria, after the first words of greeting had been
+spoken between them; "you must permit me to present to you my
+father's most particular friend, and my own,--Mr. Pomfret; John, this
+is the Marquis D'Almavivas."
+
+I cannot now describe the grace with which this introduction was
+effected, or the beauty of her face as she uttered the word. There
+was a boldness about her as though she had said, "I know it all--the
+whole story. But, in spite of that you must take him on my
+representation, and be gracious to him in spite of what he has done.
+You must be content to do that; or in quarrelling with him you must
+quarrel with me also." And it was done at the spur of the moment--
+without delay. She, who not five minutes since had been loudly
+condemning the unknown Englishman for his rudeness, had already
+pardoned him, now that he was known to be her friend; and had
+determined that he should be pardoned by others also or that she
+would share his disgrace. I recognised the nobleness of this at the
+moment; but, nevertheless, I was so sore that I would almost have
+preferred that she should have disowned me.
+
+The marquis immediately lifted his cap with his left hand while he
+gave me his right. "I have already had the pleasure of meeting this
+gentleman," he said; "we had some conversation in the boat together."
+
+"Yes," said I, pointing to his rent, "and you still bear the marks of
+our encounter."
+
+"Was it not delightful, Donna Maria," he continued, turning to her;
+"your friend's friend took me for a torero?"
+
+"And it served you properly, senor," said Donna Maria, laughing, "you
+have no right to go about with all those rich ornaments upon you."
+
+"Oh! quite properly; indeed, I make no complaint; and I must beg your
+friend to understand, and his friend also, how grateful I am for
+their solicitude as to my pecuniary welfare. They were inclined to
+be severe on me for being so extravagant in such trifles. I was
+obliged to explain that I had no wife at home kept without her proper
+allowance of dresses, in order that I might be gay."
+
+"They are foreigners, and you should forgive their error," said she.
+
+"And in token that I do so," said the marquis, "I shall beg your
+friend to accept the little ornament which attracted his attention."
+And so saying, he pulled the identical button out of his pocket, and
+gracefully proffered it to me.
+
+"I shall carry it about with me always," said I, accepting it, "as a
+memento of humiliation. When I look at it, I shall ever remember the
+folly of an Englishman and the courtesy of a Spaniard;" and as I made
+the speech I could not but reflect whether it might, under any
+circumstances, be possible that Lord John Russell should be induced
+to give a button off his coat to a Spaniard.
+
+There were other civil speeches made, and before we left the tower
+the marquis had asked me to his parties, and exacted from me an
+unwilling promise that I would attend them. "The senora," he said,
+bowing again to Maria, "would, he was sure, grace them. She had done
+so on the previous year; and as I had accepted his little present I
+was bound to acknowledge him as my friend." All this was very
+pretty, and of course I said that I would go, but I had not at that
+time the slightest intention of doing so. Maria had behaved
+admirably; she had covered my confusion, and shown herself not
+ashamed to own me, delinquent as I was; but, not the less, had she
+expressed her opinion, in language terribly strong, of the
+awkwardness of which I had been guilty, and had shown almost an
+aversion to my English character. I should leave Seville as quickly
+as I could, and should certainly not again put myself in the way of
+the Marquis D'Almavivas. Indeed, I dreaded the moment that I should
+be first alone with her, and should find myself forced to say
+something indicative of my feelings--to hear something also
+indicative of her feelings. I had come out this morning resolved to
+demand my rights and to exercise them--and now my only wish was to
+man away. I hated the marquis, and longed to be alone that I might
+cast his button from me. To think that a man should be so ruined by
+such a trifle!
+
+We descended that prodigious flight without a word upon the subject,
+and almost without a word at all. She had carried herself well in
+the presence of Almavivas, and had been too proud to seem ashamed of
+her companion; but now, as I could well see, her feelings of disgust
+and contempt had returned. When I begged her not to hurry herself,
+she would hardly answer me; and when she did speak, her voice was
+constrained and unlike herself. And yet how beautiful she was!
+Well, my dream of Spanish love must be over. But I was sure of this;
+that having known her, and given her my heart, I could never
+afterwards share it with another.
+
+We came out at last on the dark, gloomy aisle of the cathedral, and
+walked together without a word up along the side of the choir, till
+we came to the transept. There was not a soul near us, and not a
+sound was to be heard but the distant, low pattering of a mass, then
+in course of celebration at some far-off chapel in the cathedral.
+When we got to the transept Maria turned a little, as though she was
+going to the transept door, and then stopped herself. She stood
+still; and when I stood also, she made two steps towards me, and put
+her hand on my arm. "Oh, John!" she said.
+
+"'Well," said I; "after all it does not signify. You can make a joke
+of it when my back is turned."
+
+"Dearest John!"--she had never spoken to me in that way before--"you
+must not be angry with me. It is better that we should explain to
+each other, is it not?"
+
+"Oh, much better. I am very glad you heard of it at once. I do not
+look at it quite in the same light that you do; but nevertheless--"
+
+"What do you mean? But I know you are angry with me. And yet you
+cannot think that I intended those words for you. Of course I know
+now that there was nothing rude in what passed."
+
+"Oh, but there was."
+
+"No, I am sure there was not. You could not be rude though you are
+so free hearted. I see it all now, and so does the marquis. You
+will like him so much when you come to know him. Tell me that you
+won't be cross with me for what I have said. Sometimes I think that
+I have displeased you, and yet my whole wish has been to welcome you
+to Seville, and to make you comfortable as an old friend. Promise me
+that you will not be cross with me."
+
+Cross with her! I certainly had no intention of being cross, but I
+had begun to think that she would not care what my humour might be.
+"Maria," I said, taking hold of her hand.
+
+"No, John, do not do that. It is in the church, you know."
+
+"Maria, will you answer me a question?"
+
+"Yes," she said, very slowly, looking dawn upon the stone slabs
+beneath our feet.
+
+"Do you love me?"
+
+"Love you!"
+
+"Yes, do you love me? You were to give me an answer here, in
+Seville, and now I ask for it. I have almost taught myself to think
+that it is needless to ask; and now this horrid mischance--"
+
+"What do you mean?" said she, speaking very quickly.
+
+"Why this miserable blunder about the marquis's button! After that I
+suppose--"
+
+"The marquis! Oh, John, is that to make a difference between you and
+me?--a little joke like that?"
+
+"But does it not?"
+
+"Make a change between us!--such a thing as that! Oh, John!"
+
+"But tell me, Maria, what am I to hope? If you will say that you can
+love me, I shall care nothing for the marquis. In that case I can
+bear to be laughed at."
+
+"Who will dare to laugh at you? Not the marquis, whom I am sure you
+will like."
+
+"Your friend in this plaza, who told you of all this."
+
+"What, poor Tomas!"
+
+"I do not know about his being poor. I mean the gentleman who was
+with you last night."
+
+"Yes, Tomas. You do not know who he is?"
+
+"Not in the least."
+
+"How droll! He is your own clerk--partly your own, now that you are
+one of the firm. And, John, I mean to make you do something for him;
+he is such a good fellow; and last year he married a young girl whom
+I love--oh, almost like a sister."
+
+Do something for him! Of course I would. I promised, then and
+there, that I would raise his salary to any conceivable amount that a
+Spanish clerk could desire; which promise I have since kept, if not
+absolutely to the letter, at any rate, to an extent which has been
+considered satisfactory by the gentleman's wife.
+
+"But, Maria--dearest Maria--"
+
+"Remember, John, we are in the church; and poor papa will be waiting
+breakfast."
+
+I need hardly continue the story further. It will be known to all
+that my love-suit throve in spite of my unfortunate raid on the
+button of the Marquis D'Almavivas, at whose series of fetes through
+that month I was, I may boast, an honoured guest. I have since that
+had the pleasure of entertaining him in my own poor house in England,
+and one of our boys bears his Christian name.
+
+From that day in which I ascended the Giralda to this present day in
+which I write, I have never once had occasion to complain of a
+deficiency of romance either in Maria Daguilar or in Maria Pomfret.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's John Bull on the Guadalquivir, by Anthony Trollope
+
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