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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, John Bull on the Guadalquivir, by Anthony
+Trollope
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most
+other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions
+whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of
+the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at
+www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have
+to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook.
+
+
+
+
+Title: John Bull on the Guadalquivir
+
+
+Author: Anthony Trollope
+
+
+
+Release Date: January 16, 2015 [eBook #3615]
+[This file was first posted on June 15, 2001]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOHN BULL ON THE GUADALQUIVIR***
+
+
+Transcribed from the 1864 Chapman and Hall “Tales from all Countries”
+edition by David Price, email ccx074@pglaf.org
+
+
+
+
+
+ JOHN BULL ON THE GUADALQUIVIR.
+
+
+I AM an Englishman, living, as all Englishman should do, in England, and
+my wife would not, I think, be well pleased were any one to insinuate
+that she were other than an Englishwoman; but in the circumstances of my
+marriage I became connected with the south of Spain, and the narrative
+which I am to tell requires that I should refer to some of those details.
+
+The Pomfrets and Daguilars have long been in trade together in this
+country, and one of the partners has usually resided at Seville for the
+sake of the works which the firm there possesses. My father, James
+Pomfret, lived there for ten years before his marriage; and since that
+and up to the present period, old Mr. Daguilar has always been on the
+spot. He was, I believe, born in Spain, but he came very early to
+England; he married an English wife, and his sons had been educated
+exclusively in England. His only daughter, Maria Daguilar, did not pass
+so large a proportion of her early life in this country, but she came to
+us for a visit at the age of seventeen, and when she returned I made up
+my mind that I most assuredly would go after her. So I did, and she is
+now sitting on the other side of the fireplace with a legion of small
+linen habiliments in a huge basket by her side.
+
+I felt, at the first, that there was something lacking to make my cup of
+love perfectly delightful. It was very sweet, but there was wanting that
+flower of romance which is generally added to the heavenly draught by a
+slight admixture of opposition. I feared that the path of my true love
+would run too smooth. When Maria came to our house, my mother and elder
+sister seemed to be quite willing that I should be continually alone with
+her; and she had not been there ten days before my father, by chance,
+remarked that there was nothing old Mr. Daguilar valued so highly as a
+thorough feeling of intimate alliance between the two families which had
+been so long connected in trade. I was never told that Maria was to be
+my wife, but I felt that the same thing was done without words; and when,
+after six weeks of somewhat elaborate attendance upon her, I asked her to
+be Mrs. John Pomfret, I had no more fear of a refusal, or even of
+hesitation on her part, than I now have when I suggest to my partner some
+commercial transaction of undoubted advantage.
+
+But Maria, even at that age, had about her a quiet sustained decision of
+character quite unlike anything I had seen in English girls. I used to
+hear, and do still hear, how much more flippant is the education of girls
+in France and Spain than in England; and I know that this is shown to be
+the result of many causes—the Roman Catholic religion being, perhaps,
+chief offender; but, nevertheless, I rarely see in one of our own young
+women the same power of a self-sustained demeanour as I meet on the
+Continent. It goes no deeper than the demeanour, people say. I can only
+answer that I have not found that shallowness in my own wife.
+
+Miss Daguilar replied to me that she was not prepared with an answer; she
+had only known me six weeks, and wanted more time to think about it;
+besides, there was one in her own country with whom she would wish to
+consult. I knew she had no mother; and as for consulting old Mr.
+Daguilar on such a subject, that idea, I knew, could not have troubled
+her. Besides, as I afterwards learned, Mr. Daguilar had already proposed
+the marriage to his partner exactly as he would have proposed a division
+of assets. My mother declared that Maria was a foolish chit—in which
+by-the-bye she showed her entire ignorance of Miss Daguilar’s character;
+my eldest sister begged that no constraint might he put on the young
+lady’s inclinations—which provoked me to assert that the young lady’s
+inclinations were by no means opposed to my own; and my father, in the
+coolest manner suggested that the matter might stand over for twelve
+months, and that I might then go to Seville, and see about it! Stand
+over for twelve months! Would not Maria, long before that time, have
+been snapped up and carried off by one of those inordinately rich Spanish
+grandees who are still to be met with occasionally in Andalucia?
+
+My father’s dictum, however, had gone forth; and Maria, in the calmest
+voice, protested that she thought it very wise. I should be less of a
+boy by that time, she said, smiling on me, but driving wedges between
+every fibre of my body as she spoke. “Be it so,” I said, proudly. “At
+any rate, I am not so much of a boy that I shall forget you.” “And,
+John, you still have the trade to learn,” she added, with her deliciously
+foreign intonation—speaking very slowly, but with perfect pronunciation.
+The trade to learn! However, I said not a word, but stalked out of the
+room, meaning to see her no more before she went. But I could not resist
+attending on her in the hall as she started; and, when she took leave of
+us, she put her face up to be kissed by me, as she did by my father, and
+seemed to receive as much emotion from one embrace as from the other.
+“He’ll go out by the packet of the 1st April,” said my father, speaking
+of me as though I were a bale of goods. “Ah! that will be so nice,” said
+Maria, settling her dress in the carriage; “the oranges will be ripe for
+him then!”
+
+On the 17th April I did sail, and felt still very like a bale of goods.
+I had received one letter from her, in which she merely stated that her
+papa would have a room ready for me on my arrival; and, in answer to
+that, I had sent an epistle somewhat longer, and, as I then thought, a
+little more to the purpose. Her turn of mind was more practical than
+mine, and I must confess my belief that she did not appreciate my poetry.
+
+I landed at Cadiz, and was there joined by an old family friend, one of
+the very best fellows that ever lived. He was to accompany me up as far
+as Seville; and, as he had lived for a year or two at Xeres, was supposed
+to be more Spanish almost than a Spaniard. His name was Johnson, and he
+was in the wine trade; and whether for travelling or whether for staying
+at home—whether for paying you a visit in your own house, or whether for
+entertaining you in his—there never was (and I am prepared to maintain
+there never will be) a stancher friend, choicer companion, or a safer
+guide than Thomas Johnson. Words cannot produce a eulogium sufficient
+for his merits. But, as I have since learned, he was not quite so
+Spanish as I had imagined. Three years among the bodegas of Xeres had
+taught him, no doubt, to appreciate the exact twang of a good, dry
+sherry; but not, as I now conceive, the exactest flavour of the true
+Spanish character. I was very lucky, however, in meeting such a friend,
+and now reckon him as one of the stanchest allies of the house of
+Pomfret, Daguilar, and Pomfret.
+
+He met me at Cadiz, took me about the town, which appeared to me to be of
+no very great interest;—though the young ladies were all very well. But,
+in this respect, I was then a Stoic, till such time as I might be able to
+throw myself at the feet of her whom I was ready to proclaim the most
+lovely of all the Dulcineas of Andalucia. He carried me up by boat and
+railway to Xeres; gave me a most terrific headache, by dragging me out
+into the glare of the sun, after I had tasted some half a dozen different
+wines, and went through all the ordinary hospitalities. On the next day
+we returned to Puerto, and from thence getting across to St. Lucar and
+Bonanza, found ourselves on the banks of the Guadalquivir, and took our
+places in the boat for Seville. I need say but little to my readers
+respecting that far-famed river. Thirty years ago we in England
+generally believed that on its banks was to be found a pure elysium of
+pastoral beauty; that picturesque shepherds and lovely maidens here fed
+their flocks in fields of asphodel; that the limpid stream ran cool and
+crystal over bright stones and beneath perennial shade; and that every
+thing on the Guadalquivir was as lovely and as poetical as its name.
+Now, it is pretty widely known that no uglier river oozes down to its
+bourn in the sea through unwholesome banks of low mud. It is brown and
+dirty; ungifted by any scenic advantage; margined for miles upon miles by
+huge, flat, expansive fields, in which cattle are reared,—the bulls
+wanted for the bullfights among other; and birds of prey sit constant on
+the shore, watching for the carcases of such as die. Such are the charms
+of the golden Guadalquivir.
+
+At first we were very dull on board that steamer. I never found myself
+in a position in which there was less to do. There was a nasty smell
+about the little boat which made me almost ill; every turn in the river
+was so exactly like the last, that we might have been standing still;
+there was no amusement except eating, and that, when once done, was not
+of a kind to make an early repetition desirable. Even Johnson was
+becoming dull, and I began to doubt whether I was so desirous as I once
+had been to travel the length and breadth of all Spain. But about noon a
+little incident occurred which did for a time remove some of our tedium.
+The boat had stopped to take in passengers on the river; and, among
+others, a man had come on board dressed in a fashion that, to my eyes,
+was equally strange and picturesque. Indeed, his appearance was so
+singular, that I could not but regard him with care, though I felt at
+first averse to stare at a fellow-passenger on account of his clothes.
+He was a man of about fifty, but as active apparently as though not more
+than twenty five; he was of low stature, but of admirable make; his hair
+was just becoming grizzled, but was short and crisp and well cared for;
+his face was prepossessing, having a look of good humour added to
+courtesy, and there was a pleasant, soft smile round his mouth which
+ingratiated one at the first sight. But it was his dress rather than his
+person which attracted attention. He wore the ordinary Andalucian cap—of
+which such hideous parodies are now making themselves common in
+England—but was not contented with the usual ornament of the double tuft.
+The cap was small, and jaunty; trimmed with silk velvet—as is common here
+with men careful to adorn their persons; but this man’s cap was finished
+off with a jewelled button and golden filigree work. He was dressed in a
+short jacket with a stand up collar; and that also was covered with
+golden buttons and with golden button-holes. It was all gilt down the
+front, and all lace down the back. The rows of buttons were double; and
+those of the more backward row hung down in heavy pendules. His
+waistcoat was of coloured silk—very pretty to look at; and ornamented
+with a small sash, through which gold threads were worked. All the
+buttons of his breeches also were of gold; and there were gold tags to
+all the button-holes. His stockings were of the finest silk, and clocked
+with gold from the knee to the ankle.
+
+Dress any Englishman in such a garb and he will at once give you the idea
+of a hog in armour. In the first place he will lack the proper spirit to
+carry it off, and in the next place the motion of his limbs will disgrace
+the ornaments they bear. “And so best,” most Englishmen will say. Very
+likely; and, therefore, let no Englishman try it. But my Spaniard did
+not look at like a hog in armour. He walked slowly down the plank into
+the boat, whistling lowly but very clearly a few bars from a opera tune.
+It was plain to see that he was master of himself, of his ornaments, and
+of his limbs. He had no appearance of thinking that men were looking at
+him, or of feeling that he was beauteous in his attire;—nothing could be
+more natural than his foot-fall, or the quiet glance of his cheery gray
+eye. He walked up to the captain, who held the helm, and lightly raised
+his hand to his cap. The captain, taking one hand from the wheel, did
+the same, and then the stranger, turning his back to the stern of the
+vessel, and fronting down the river with his face, continued to whistle
+slowly, clearly, and in excellent time. Grand as were his clothes they
+were no burden on his mind.
+
+“What is he?” said I, going up to my friend Johnson with a whisper.
+
+“Well, I’ve been looking at him,” said Johnson—which was true enough;
+“he’s a — an uncommonly good-looking fellow, isn’t he?”
+
+“Particularly so,” said I; “and got up quite irrespective of expense. Is
+he a—a—a gentleman, now, do you think?”
+
+“Well, those things are so different in Spain that it’s almost impossible
+to make an Englishman understand them. One learns to know all this sort
+of people by being with them in the country, but one can’t explain.”
+
+“No; exactly. Are they real gold?”
+
+“Yes, yes; I dare say they are. They sometimes have them silver gilt.”
+
+“It is quite a common thing, then, isn’t it?” asked I.
+
+“Well, not exactly; that—Ah! yes; I see! of course. He is a torero.”
+
+“A what?”
+
+“A mayo. I will explain it all to you. You will see them about in all
+places, and you will get used to them.”
+
+“But I haven’t seen one other as yet.”
+
+“No, and they are not all so gay as this, nor so new in their finery, you
+know.”
+
+“And what is a torero?”
+
+“Well, a torero is a man engaged in bull-fighting.”
+
+“Oh! he is a matador, is he?” said I, looking at him with more than all
+my eyes.
+
+“No, not exactly that;—not of necessity. He is probably a mayo. A
+fellow that dresses himself smart for fairs, and will be seen hanging
+about with the bull-fighters. What would be a sporting fellow in
+England—only he won’t drink and curse like a low man on the turf there.
+Come, shall we go and speak to him?”
+
+“I can’t talk to him,” said I, diffident of my Spanish. I had received
+lessons in England from Maria Daguilar; but six weeks is little enough
+for making love, let alone the learning of a foreign language.
+
+“Oh! I’ll do the talking. You’ll find the language easy enough before
+long. It soon becomes the same as English to you, when you live among
+them.” And then Johnson, walking up to the stranger, accosted him with
+that good-natured familiarity with which a thoroughly nice fellow always
+opens a conversation with his inferior. Of course I could not understand
+the words which were exchanged; but it was clear enough that the “mayo”
+took the address in good part, and was inclined to be communicative and
+social.
+
+“They are all of pure gold,” said Johnson, turning to me after a minute,
+making as he spoke a motion with his head to show the importance of the
+information.
+
+“Are they indeed?” said I. “Where on earth did a fellow like that get
+them?” Whereupon Johnson again returned to his conversation with the
+man. After another minute he raised his hand, and began to finger the
+button on the shoulder; and to aid him in doing so, the man of the
+bull-ring turned a little on one side.
+
+“They are wonderfully well made,” said Johnson, talking to me, and still
+fingering the button. “They are manufactured, he says, at Osuna, and he
+tells me that they make them better there than anywhere else.”
+
+“I wonder what the whole set would cost?” said I. “An enormous deal of
+money for a fellow like him, I should think!”
+
+“Over twelve ounces,” said Johnson, having asked the question; “and that
+will be more than forty pounds.”
+
+“What an uncommon ass he must be!” said I.
+
+As Johnson by this time was very closely scrutinising the whole set of
+ornaments I thought I might do so also, and going up close to our friend,
+I too began to handle the buttons and tags on the other side. Nothing
+could have been more good-humoured than he was—so much so that I was
+emboldened to hold up his arm that I might see the cut of his coat, to
+take off his cap and examine the make, to stuff my finger in beneath his
+sash, and at last to kneel down while I persuaded him to hold up his legs
+that I might look to the clocking. The fellow was thorough good-natured,
+and why should I not indulge my curiosity?
+
+“You’ll upset him if you don’t take care,” said Johnson; for I had got
+fast hold of him by one ankle, and was determined to finish the survey
+completely.
+
+“Oh, no, I shan’t,” said I; “a bull-fighting chap can surely stand on one
+leg. But what I wonder at is, how on earth he can afford it!” Whereupon
+Johnson again began to interrogate him in Spanish.
+
+“He says he has got no children,” said Johnson, having received a reply,
+“and that as he has nobody but himself to look after, he is able to allow
+himself such little luxuries.”
+
+“Tell him that I say he would be better with a wife and couple of
+babies,” said I—and Johnson interpreted.
+
+“He says that he’ll think of it some of these days, when he finds that
+the supply of fools in the world is becoming short,” said Johnson.
+
+We had nearly done with him now; but after regaining my feet, I addressed
+myself once more to the heavy pendules, which hung down almost under his
+arm. I lifted one of these, meaning to feel its weight between my
+fingers; but unfortunately I gave a lurch, probably through the motion of
+the boat, and still holding by the button, tore it almost off from our
+friend’s coat.
+
+“Oh, I am so sorry,” I said, in broad English.
+
+“It do not matter at all,” he said, bowing, and speaking with equal
+plainness. And then, taking a knife from his pocket, he cut the pendule
+off, leaving a bit of torn cloth on the side of his jacket.
+
+“Upon my word, I am quite unhappy,” said I; “but I always am so awkward.”
+Whereupon he bowed low.
+
+“Couldn’t I make it right?” said I, bringing out my purse.
+
+He lifted his hand, and I saw that it was small and white; he lifted it
+and gently put it upon my purse, smiling sweetly as he did so. “Thank
+you, no, señor; thank you, no.” And then, bowing to us both, he walked
+away down into the cabin.
+
+“Upon my word he is a deuced well-mannered fellow,” said I.
+
+“You shouldn’t have offered him money,” said Johnson; “a Spaniard does
+not like it.”
+
+“Why, I thought you could do nothing without money in this country.
+Doesn’t every one take bribes?”
+
+“Ah! yes; that is a different thing; but not the price of a button. By
+Jove! he understood English, too. Did you see that?”
+
+“Yes; and I called him an ass! I hope he doesn’t mind it.”
+
+“Oh! no; he won’t think anything about it,” said Johnson. “That sort of
+fellows don’t. I dare say we shall see him in the bull-ring next Sunday,
+and then we’ll make all right with a glass of lemonade.”
+
+And so our adventure ended with the man of the gold ornaments. I was
+sorry that I had spoken English before him so heedlessly, and resolved
+that I would never be guilty of such gaucherie again. But, then, who
+would think that a Spanish bull-fighter would talk a foreign language? I
+was sorry, also, that I had torn his coat; it had looked so awkward; and
+sorry again that I had offered the man money. Altogether I was a little
+ashamed of myself; but I had too much to look forward to at Seville to
+allow any heaviness to remain long at my heart; and before I had arrived
+at the marvellous city I had forgotten both him and his buttons.
+
+Nothing could be nicer than the way in which I was welcomed at Mr.
+Daguilar’s house, or more kind—I may almost say affectionate—than Maria’s
+manner to me. But it was too affectionate; and I am not sure that I
+should not have liked my reception better had she been more diffident in
+her tone, and less inclined to greet me with open warmth. As it was, she
+again gave me her cheek to kiss, in her father’s presence, and called me
+dear John, and asked me specially after some rabbits which I had kept at
+home merely for a younger sister; and then it seemed as though she were
+in no way embarrassed by the peculiar circumstances of our position.
+Twelve months since I had asked her to be my wife, and now she was to
+give me an answer; and yet she was as assured in her gait, and as
+serenely joyous in her tone, as though I were a brother just returned
+from college. It could not be that she meant to refuse me, or she would
+not smile on me and be so loving; but I could almost have found it in my
+heart to wish that she would. “It is quite possible,” said I to myself,
+“that I may not be found so ready for this family bargain. A love that
+is to be had like a bale of goods is not exactly the love to suit my
+taste.” But then, when I met her again in the morning I could no more
+have quarrelled with her than I could have flown.
+
+I was inexpressibly charmed with the whole city, and especially with the
+house in which Mr. Daguilar lived. It opened from the corner of a
+narrow, unfrequented street—a corner like an elbow—and, as seen from the
+exterior, there was nothing prepossessing to recommend it; but the outer
+door led by a short hall or passage to an inner door or grille, made of
+open ornamental iron-work, and through that we entered a court, or patio,
+as they I called it. Nothing could be more lovely or deliciously cool
+than was this small court. The building on each side was covered by
+trellis-work; and beautiful creepers, vines, and parasite flowers, now in
+the full magnificence of the early summer, grew up and clustered round
+the windows. Every inch of wall was covered, so that none of the glaring
+whitewash wounded the eye. In the four corners of the patio were four
+large orange-trees, covered with fruit. I would not say a word in
+special praise of these, remembering that childish promise she had made
+on my behalf. In the middle of the court there was a fountain, and round
+about on the marble floor there were chairs, and here and there a small
+table, as though the space were really a portion of the house. It was
+here that we used to take our cup of coffee and smoke our cigarettes, I
+and old Mr. Daguilar, while Maria sat by, not only approving, but
+occasionally rolling for me the thin paper round the fragrant weed with
+her taper fingers. Beyond the patio was an open passage or gallery,
+filled also with flowers in pots; and then, beyond this, one entered the
+drawing-room of the house. It was by no means a princely palace or
+mansion, fit for the owner of untold wealth. The rooms were not over
+large nor very numerous; but the most had been made of a small space, and
+everything had been done to relieve the heat of an almost tropical sun.
+
+“It is pretty, is it not?” she said, as she took me through it.
+
+“Very pretty,” I said. “I wish we could live in such houses.”
+
+“Oh, they would not do at all for dear old fat, cold, cozy England. You
+are quite different, you know, in everything from us in the south; more
+phlegmatic, but then so much steadier. The men and the houses are all
+the same.”
+
+I can hardly tell why, but even this wounded me. It seemed to me as
+though she were inclined to put into one and the same category things
+English, dull, useful, and solid; and that she was disposed to show a
+sufficient appreciation for such necessaries of life, though she herself
+had another and inner sense—a sense keenly alive to the poetry of her own
+southern chime; and that I, as being English, was to have no
+participation in this latter charm. An English husband might do very
+well, the interests of the firm might make such an arrangement desirable,
+such a mariage de convenance—so I argued to myself—might be quite
+compatible with—with heaven only knows what delights of superterrestial
+romance, from which I, as being an English thick-headed lump of useful
+coarse mortality, was to be altogether debarred. She had spoken to me of
+oranges, and having finished the survey of the house, she offered me some
+sweet little cakes. It could not be that of such things were the
+thoughts which lay undivulged beneath the clear waters of those deep
+black eyes—undivulged to me, though no one else could have so good a
+right to read those thoughts! It could not be that that noble brow gave
+index of a mind intent on the trade of which she spoke so often! Words
+of other sort than any that had been vouchsafed to me must fall at times
+from the rich curves of that perfect month.
+
+So felt I then, pining for something to make me unhappy. Ah, me! I know
+all about it now, and am content. But I wish that some learned pundit
+would give us a good definition of romance, would describe in words that
+feeling with which our hearts are so pestered when we are young, which
+makes us sigh for we know not what, and forbids us to be contented with
+what God sends us. We invest female beauty with impossible attributes,
+and are angry because our women have not the spiritualised souls of
+angels, anxious as we are that they should also be human in the flesh. A
+man looks at her he would love as at a distant landscape in a mountainous
+land. The peaks are glorious with more than the beauty of earth and rock
+and vegetation. He dreams of some mysterious grandeur of design which
+tempts him on under the hot sun, and over the sharp rock, till he has
+reached the mountain goal which he had set before him. But when there,
+he finds that the beauty is well-nigh gone, and as for that delicious
+mystery on which his soul had fed, it has vanished for ever.
+
+I know all about it now, and am, as I said, content. Beneath those deep
+black eyes there lay a well of love, good, honest, homely love, love of
+father and husband and children that were to come—of that love which
+loves to see the loved ones prospering in honesty. That noble brow—for
+it is noble; I am unchanged in that opinion, and will go unchanged to my
+grave—covers thoughts as to the welfare of many, and an intellect fitted
+to the management of a household, of servants, namely, and children, and
+perchance a husband. That mouth can speak words of wisdom, of very
+useful wisdom—though of poetry it has latterly uttered little that was
+original. Poetry and romance! They are splendid mountain views seen in
+the distance. So let men be content to see them, and not attempt to
+tread upon the fallacious heather of the mystic hills.
+
+In the first week of my sojourn in Seville I spoke no word of overt love
+to Maria, thinking, as I confess, to induce her thereby to alter her mode
+of conduct to myself. “She knows that I have come here to make love to
+her—to repeat my offer; and she will at any rate be chagrined if I am
+slow to do so.” But it had no effect. At home my mother was rather
+particular about her table, and Maria’s greatest efforts seemed to be
+used in giving me as nice dinners as we gave her. In those days I did
+not care a straw about my dinner, and so I took an opportunity of telling
+her. “Dear me,” said she, looking at me almost with grief, “do you not?
+What a pity! And do you not like music either.” “Oh, yes, I adore it,”
+I replied. I felt sure at the time that had I been born in her own sunny
+clime, she would never have talked to me about eating. But that was my
+mistake.
+
+I used to walk out with her about the city, seeing all that is there of
+beauty and magnificence. And in what city is there more that is worth
+the seeing? At first this was very delightful to me, for I felt that I
+was blessed with a privilege that would not be granted to any other man.
+But its value soon fell in my eyes, for others would accost her, and walk
+on the other side, talking to her in Spanish, as though I hardly existed,
+or were a servant there for her protection. And I was not allowed to
+take her arm, and thus to appropriate her, as I should have done in
+England. “No, John,” she said, with the sweetest, prettiest smile, “we
+don’t do that here; only when people are married.” And she made this
+allusion to married life out, openly, with no slightest tremor on her
+tongue.
+
+“Oh, I beg pardon,” said I, drawing back my hand, and feeling angry with
+myself for not being fully acquainted with all the customs of a foreign
+country.
+
+“You need not beg pardon,” said she; “when we were in England we always
+walked so. It is just a custom, you know.” And then I saw her drop her
+large dark eyes to the ground, and bow gracefully in answer to some
+salute.
+
+I looked round, and saw that we had been joined by a young cavalier,—a
+Spanish nobleman, as I saw at once; a man with jet black hair, and a
+straight nose, and a black moustache, and patent leather boots, very slim
+and very tall, and—though I would not confess it then—uncommonly
+handsome. I myself am inclined to be stout, my hair is light, my nose
+broad, I have no hair on my upper lip, and my whiskers are rough and
+uneven. “I could punch your head though, my fine fellow,” said I to
+myself, when I saw that he placed himself at Maria’s side, “and think
+very little of the achievement.”
+
+The wretch went on with us round the plaza for some quarter of an hour
+talking Spanish with the greatest fluency, and she was every whit as
+fluent. Of course I could not understand a word that they said. Of all
+positions that a man can occupy, I think that that is about the most
+uncomfortable; and I cannot say that, even up to this day, I have quite
+forgiven her for that quarter of an hour.
+
+“I shall go in,” said I, unable to bear my feelings, and preparing to
+leave her. “The heat is unendurable.”
+
+“Oh dear, John, why did you not speak before?” she answered. “You cannot
+leave me here, you know, as I am in your charge; but I will go with you
+almost directly.” And then she finished her conversation with the
+Spaniard, speaking with an animation she had never displayed in her
+conversations with me.
+
+It had been agreed between us for two or three days before this, that we
+were to rise early on the following morning for the sake of ascending the
+tower of the cathedral, and visiting the Giralda, as the iron figure is
+called, which turns upon a pivot on the extreme summit. We had often
+wandered together up and down the long dark gloomy aisle of the
+stupendous building, and had, together, seen its treasury of art; but as
+yet we had not performed the task which has to be achieved by all
+visitors to Seville; and in order that we might have a clear view over
+the surrounding country, and not be tormented by the heat of an advanced
+sun, we had settled that we would ascend the Giralda before breakfast.
+
+And now, as I walked away from the plaza towards Mr. Daguilar’s house,
+with Maria by my side, I made up my mind that I would settle my business
+during this visit to the cathedral. Yes, and I would so manage the
+settlement that there should be no doubt left as to my intentions and my
+own ideas. I would not be guilty of shilly-shally conduct; I would tell
+her frankly what I felt and what I thought, and would make her understand
+that I did not desire her hand if I could not have her heart. I did not
+value the kindness of her manner, seeing that that kindness sprung from
+indifference rather than passion; and so I would declare to her. And I
+would ask her, also, who was this young man with whom she was
+intimate—for whom all her volubility and energy of tone seemed to be
+employed? She had told me once that it behoved her to consult a friend
+in Seville as to the expediency of her marriage with me. Was this the
+friend whom she had wished to consult? If so, she need not trouble
+herself. Under such circumstances I should decline the connection! And
+I resolved that I would find out how this might be. A man who proposes
+to take a woman to his bosom as his wife, has a right to ask for
+information—ay, and to receive it too. It flashed upon my mind at this
+moment that Donna Maria was well enough inclined to come to me as my
+wife, but —. I could hardly define the “buts” to myself, for there were
+three or four of them. Why did she always speak to me in a tone of
+childish affection, as though I were a schoolboy home for the holidays?
+I would have all this out with her on the tower on the following morning,
+standing under the Giralda.
+
+On that morning we met together in the patio, soon after five o’clock,
+and started for the cathedral. She looked beautiful, with her black
+mantilla over her head, and with black gloves on, and her black morning
+silk dress—beautiful, composed, and at her ease, as though she were well
+satisfied to undertake this early morning walk from feelings of good
+nature—sustained, probably, by some under-current of a deeper sentiment.
+Well; I would know all about it before I returned to her father’s house.
+
+There hardly stands, as I think, on the earth, a building more remarkable
+than the cathedral of Seville, and hardly one more grand. Its enormous
+size; its gloom and darkness; the richness of ornamentation in the
+details, contrasted with the severe simplicity of the larger outlines;
+the variety of its architecture; the glory of its paintings; and the
+wondrous splendour of its metallic decoration, its altar-friezes,
+screens, rails, gates, and the like, render it, to my mind, the first in
+interest among churches. It has not the coloured glass of Chartres, or
+the marble glory of Milan, or such a forest of aisles as Antwerp, or so
+perfect a hue in stone as Westminster, nor in mixed beauty of form and
+colour does it possess anything equal to the choir of Cologne; but, for
+combined magnificence and awe-compelling grandeur, I regard it as
+superior to all other ecclesiastical edifices.
+
+It is its deep gloom with which the stranger is so greatly struck on his
+first entrance. In a region so hot as the south of Spain, a cool
+interior is a main object with the architect, and this it has been
+necessary to effect by the exclusion of light; consequently the church is
+dark, mysterious, and almost cold. On the morning in question, as we
+entered, it seemed to be filled with gloom, and the distant sound of a
+slow footstep here and there beyond the transept inspired one almost with
+awe. Maria, when she first met me, had begun to talk with her usual
+smile, offering me coffee and a biscuit before I started. “I never eat
+biscuit,” I said, with almost a severe tone, as I turned from her. That
+dark, horrid man of the plaza—would she have offered him a cake had she
+been going to walk with him in the gloom of the morning? After that
+little had been spoken between us. She walked by my side with her
+accustomed smile; but she had, as I flattered myself, begun to learn that
+I was not to be won by a meaningless good nature. “We are lucky in our
+morning for the view!” that was all she said, speaking with that
+peculiarly clear, but slow pronunciation which she had assumed in
+learning our language.
+
+We entered the cathedral, and, walking the whole length of the aisle,
+left it again at the porter’s porch at the farther end. Here we passed
+through a low door on to the stone flight of steps, and at once began to
+ascend. “There are a party of your countrymen up before us,” said Maria;
+“the porter says that they went through the lodge half an hour since.”
+“I hope they will return before we are on the top,” said I, bethinking
+myself of the task that was before me. And indeed my heart was hardly at
+ease within me, for that which I had to say would require all the spirit
+of which I was master.
+
+The ascent to the Giralda is very long and very fatiguing; and we had to
+pause on the various landings and in the singular belfry in order that
+Miss Daguilar might recruit her strength and breath. As we rested on one
+of these occasions, in a gallery which runs round the tower below the
+belfry, we heard a great noise of shouting, and a clattering of sticks
+among the bells. “It is the party of your countrymen who went up before
+us,” said she. “What a pity that Englishmen should always make so much
+noise!” And then she spoke in Spanish to the custodian of the bells, who
+is usually to be found in a little cabin up there within the tower. “He
+says that they went up shouting like demons,” continued Maria; and it
+seemed to me that she looked as though I ought to be ashamed of the name
+of an Englishman. “They may not be so solemn in their demeanour as
+Spaniards,” I answered; “but, for all that, there may be quite as much in
+them.”
+
+We then again began to mount, and before we had ascended much farther we
+passed my three countrymen. They were young men, with gray coats and
+gray trousers, with slouched hats, and without gloves. They had fair
+faces and fair hair, and swung big sticks in their hands, with crooked
+handles. They laughed and talked loud, and, when we met them, seemed to
+be racing with each other; but nevertheless they were gentlemen. No one
+who knows by sight what an English gentleman is, could have doubted that;
+but I did acknowledge to myself that they should have remembered that the
+edifice they were treading was a church, and that the silence they were
+invading was the cherished property of a courteous people.
+
+“They are all just the same as big boys,” said Maria. The colour
+instantly flew into my face, and I felt that it was my duty to speak up
+for my own countrymen. The word “boys” especially wounded my ears. It
+was as a boy that she treated me; but, on looking at that befringed young
+Spanish Don—who was not, apparently, my elder in age—she had recognised a
+man. However, I said nothing further till I reached the summit. One
+cannot speak with manly dignity while one is out of breath on a
+staircase.
+
+“There, John,” she said, stretching her hands away over the fair plain of
+the Guadalquivir, as soon as we stood against the parapet; “is not that
+lovely?”
+
+I would not deign to notice this. “Maria,” I said, “I think that you are
+too hard upon my countrymen?”
+
+“Too hard! no; for I love them. They are so good and industrious; and
+come home to their wives, and take care of their children. But why do
+they make themselves so—so—what the French call gauche?”
+
+“Good and industrious, and come home to their wives!” thought I. “I
+believe you hardly understand us as yet,” I answered. “Our domestic
+virtues are not always so very prominent; but, I believe, we know how to
+conduct ourselves as gentlemen: at any rate, as well as Spaniards.” I
+was very angry—not at the faults, but at the good qualities imputed to
+us.
+
+“In affairs of business, yes,” said Maria, with a look of firm confidence
+in her own opinion—that look of confidence which she has never lost, and
+I pray that she may never lose it while I remain with her—“but in the
+little intercourses of the world, no! A Spaniard never forgets what is
+personally due either to himself or his neighbours. If he is eating an
+onion, he eats it as an onion should be eaten.”
+
+“In such matters as that he is very grand, no doubt,” said I, angrily.
+
+“And why should you not eat an onion properly, John? Now, I heard a
+story yesterday from Don—about two Englishmen, which annoyed me very
+much.” I did not exactly catch the name of the Don in question but I
+felt through every nerve in my body that it was the man who had been
+talking to her on the plaza.
+
+“And what have they done?” said I. “But it is the same everywhere. We
+are always abused; but, nevertheless, no people are so welcome. At any
+rate, we pay for the mischief we do.” I was angry with myself the moment
+the words were out of my mouth, for, after all, there is no feeling more
+mean than that pocket-confidence with which an Englishman sometimes
+swaggers.
+
+“There was no mischief done in this case,” she answered. “It was simply
+that two men have made themselves ridiculous for ever. The story is all
+about Seville, and, of course, it annoys me that they should be
+Englishmen.”
+
+“And what did they do?”
+
+“The Marquis D’Almavivas was coming up to Seville in the boat, and they
+behaved to him in the most outrageous manner. He is here now and is
+going to give a series of fêtes. Of course he will not ask a single
+Englishman.”
+
+“We shall manage to live even though the Marquis D’Almavivas may frown
+upon us,” said I, proudly.
+
+“He is the richest, and also the best of our noblemen,” continued Maria;
+“and I never heard of anything so absurd as what they did to him. It
+made me blush when Don — told me.” Don Tomàs, I thought she said.
+
+“If he be the best of your noblemen, how comes it that he is angry
+because he has met two vulgar men? It is not to be supposed that every
+Englishman is a gentleman.”
+
+“Angry! Oh, no! he was not angry; he enjoyed the joke too much for that.
+He got completely the best of them, though they did not know it; poor
+fools! How would your Lord John Russell behave if two Spaniards in an
+English railway carriage were to pull him about and tear his clothes?”
+
+“He would give them in charge to a policeman, of course,” said I,
+speaking of such a matter with the contempt it deserved.
+
+“If that were done here your ambassador would be demanding national
+explanations. But Almavivas did much better;—he laughed at them without
+letting them know it.”
+
+“But do you mean that they took hold of him violently, without any
+provocation? They must have been drunk.”
+
+“Oh, no, they were sober enough. I did not see it, so I do not quite
+know exactly how it was, but I understand that they committed themselves
+most absurdly, absolutely took hold of his coat and tore it, and—; but
+they did such ridiculous things that I cannot tell you.” And yet Don
+Tomàs, if that was the man’s name, had been able to tell her, and she had
+been able to listen to him.
+
+“‘What made them take hold of the marquis?” said I.
+
+“Curiosity, I suppose,” she answered. “He dresses somewhat fancifully,
+and they could not understand that any one should wear garments different
+from their own.” But even then the blow did not strike home upon me.
+
+“Is it not pretty to look down upon the quiet town?” she said, coming
+close up to me, so that the skirt of her dress pressed me, and her elbow
+touched my arm. Now was the moment I should have asked her how her heart
+stood towards me; but I was sore and uncomfortable, and my destiny was
+before me. She was willing enough to let these English faults pass
+without further notice, but I would not allow the subject I drop.
+
+“I will find out who these men were,” said I, “and learn the truth of it.
+When did it occur?”
+
+“Last Thursday, I think he said.”
+
+“Why, that was the day we came up in the boat, Johnson and myself. There
+was no marquis there then, and we were the only Englishmen on board.”
+
+“It was on Thursday, certainly, because it was well known in Seville that
+he arrived on that day. You must have remarked him because he talks
+English perfectly—though by-the-bye, these men would go on chattering
+before him about himself as though it were impossible that a Spaniard
+should know their language. They are ignorant of Spanish, and they
+cannot bring themselves to believe that any one should be better educated
+than themselves.”
+
+Now the blow had fallen, and I straightway appreciated the necessity of
+returning immediately to Clapham where my family resided, and giving up
+for ever all idea of Spanish connections. I had resolved to assert the
+full strength of my manhood on that tower, and now words had been spoken
+which left me weak as a child. I felt that I was shivering, and did not
+dare to pronounce the truth which must be made known. As to speaking of
+love, and signifying my pleasure that Don Tomàs should for the future be
+kept at a distance, any such effort was quite beyond me. Had Don Tomàs
+been there, he might have walked off with her from before my face without
+a struggle on my part. “Now I remember about it,” she continued, “I
+think he must have been in the boat on Thursday.”
+
+“And now that I remember,” I replied, turning away to hide my
+embarrassment, “he was there. Your friend down below in the plaza seems
+to have made out a grand story. No doubt he is not fond of the English.
+There was such a man there, and I did take hold—”
+
+“Oh, John, was it you?”
+
+“Yes, Donna Maria, it was I; and if Lord John Russell were to dress
+himself in the same way—” But I had no time to complete my description
+of what might occur under so extravagantly impossible a combination of
+circumstances, for as I was yet speaking, the little door leading out on
+to the leads of the tower was opened and my friend, the mayo of the boat,
+still bearing gewgaws on his back, stepped up on to the platform. My eye
+instantly perceived that the one pendule was still missing from his
+jacket. He did not come alone, but three other gentlemen followed him,
+who, however, had no peculiarities in their dress. He saw me at once and
+bowed and smiled; and then observing Donna Maria, he lifted his cap from
+his head, and addressing himself to her in Spanish, began to converse
+with her as though she were an old friend.
+
+“Señor,” said Maria, after the first words of greeting had been spoken
+between them; “you must permit me to present to you my father’s most
+particular friend, and my own,—Mr. Pomfret; John, this is the Marquis
+D’Almavivas.”
+
+I cannot now describe the grace with which this introduction was
+effected, or the beauty of her face as she uttered the word. There was a
+boldness about her as though she had said, “I know it all—the whole
+story. But, in spite of that you must take him on my representation, and
+be gracious to him in spite of what he has done. You must be content to
+do that; or in quarrelling with him you must quarrel with me also.” And
+it was done at the spur of the moment—without delay. She, who not five
+minutes since had been loudly condemning the unknown Englishman for his
+rudeness, had already pardoned him, now that he was known to be her
+friend; and had determined that he should be pardoned by others also or
+that she would share his disgrace. I recognised the nobleness of this at
+the moment; but, nevertheless, I was so sore that I would almost have
+preferred that she should have disowned me.
+
+The marquis immediately lifted his cap with his left hand while he gave
+me his right. “I have already had the pleasure of meeting this
+gentleman,” he said; “we had some conversation in the boat together.”
+
+“Yes,” said I, pointing to his rent, “and you still bear the marks of our
+encounter.”
+
+“Was it not delightful, Donna Maria,” he continued, turning to her; “your
+friend’s friend took me for a torero?”
+
+“And it served you properly, señor,” said Donna Maria, laughing, “you
+have no right to go about with all those rich ornaments upon you.”
+
+“Oh! quite properly; indeed, I make no complaint; and I must beg your
+friend to understand, and his friend also, how grateful I am for their
+solicitude as to my pecuniary welfare. They were inclined to be severe
+on me for being so extravagant in such trifles. I was obliged to explain
+that I had no wife at home kept without her proper allowance of dresses,
+in order that I might be gay.”
+
+“They are foreigners, and you should forgive their error,” said she.
+
+“And in token that I do so,” said the marquis, “I shall beg your friend
+to accept the little ornament which attracted his attention.” And so
+saying, he pulled the identical button out of his pocket, and gracefully
+proffered it to me.
+
+“I shall carry it about with me always,” said I, accepting it, “as a
+memento of humiliation. When I look at it, I shall ever remember the
+folly of an Englishman and the courtesy of a Spaniard;” and as I made the
+speech I could not but reflect whether it might, under any circumstances,
+be possible that Lord John Russell should be induced to give a button off
+his coat to a Spaniard.
+
+There were other civil speeches made, and before we left the tower the
+marquis had asked me to his parties, and exacted from me an unwilling
+promise that I would attend them. “The señora,” he said, bowing again to
+Maria, “would, he was sure, grace them. She had done so on the previous
+year; and as I had accepted his little present I was bound to acknowledge
+him as my friend.” All this was very pretty, and of course I said that I
+would go, but I had not at that time the slightest intention of doing so.
+Maria had behaved admirably; she had covered my confusion, and shown
+herself not ashamed to own me, delinquent as I was; but, not the less,
+had she expressed her opinion, in language terribly strong, of the
+awkwardness of which I had been guilty, and had shown almost an aversion
+to my English character. I should leave Seville as quickly as I could,
+and should certainly not again put myself in the way of the Marquis
+D’Almavivas. Indeed, I dreaded the moment that I should be first alone
+with her, and should find myself forced to say something indicative of my
+feelings—to hear something also indicative of her feelings. I had come
+out this morning resolved to demand my rights and to exercise them—and
+now my only wish was to run away. I hated the marquis, and longed to be
+alone that I might cast his button from me. To think that a man should
+be so ruined by such a trifle!
+
+We descended that prodigious flight without a word upon the subject, and
+almost without a word at all. She had carried herself well in the
+presence of Almavivas, and had been too proud to seem ashamed of her
+companion; but now, as I could well see, her feelings of disgust and
+contempt had returned. When I begged her not to hurry herself, she would
+hardly answer me; and when she did speak, her voice was constrained and
+unlike herself. And yet how beautiful she was! Well, my dream of
+Spanish love must be over. But I was sure of this; that having known
+her, and given her my heart, I could never afterwards share it with
+another.
+
+We came out at last on the dark, gloomy aisle of the cathedral, and
+walked together without a word up along the side of the choir, till we
+came to the transept. There was not a soul near us, and not a sound was
+to be heard but the distant, low pattering of a mass, then in course of
+celebration at some far-off chapel in the cathedral. When we got to the
+transept Maria turned a little, as though she was going to the transept
+door, and then stopped herself. She stood still; and when I stood also,
+she made two steps towards me, and put her hand on my arm. “Oh, John!”
+she said.
+
+“‘Well,” said I; “after all it does not signify. You can make a joke of
+it when my back is turned.”
+
+“Dearest John!”—she had never spoken to me in that way before—“you must
+not be angry with me. It is better that we should explain to each other,
+is it not?”
+
+“Oh, much better. I am very glad you heard of it at once. I do not look
+at it quite in the same light that you do; but nevertheless—”
+
+“What do you mean? But I know you are angry with me. And yet you cannot
+think that I intended those words for you. Of course I know now that
+there was nothing rude in what passed.”
+
+“Oh, but there was.”
+
+“No, I am sure there was not. You could not be rude though you are so
+free hearted. I see it all now, and so does the marquis. You will like
+him so much when you come to know him. Tell me that you won’t be cross
+with me for what I have said. Sometimes I think that I have displeased
+you, and yet my whole wish has been to welcome you to Seville, and to
+make you comfortable as an old friend. Promise me that you will not be
+cross with me.”
+
+Cross with her! I certainly had no intention of being cross, but I had
+begun to think that she would not care what my humour might be. “Maria,”
+I said, taking hold of her hand.
+
+“No, John, do not do that. It is in the church, you know.”
+
+“Maria, will you answer me a question?”
+
+“Yes,” she said, very slowly, looking dawn upon the stone slabs beneath
+our feet.
+
+“Do you love me?”
+
+“Love you!”
+
+“Yes, do you love me? You were to give me an answer here, in Seville,
+and now I ask for it. I have almost taught myself to think that it is
+needless to ask; and now this horrid mischance—”
+
+“What do you mean?” said she, speaking very quickly.
+
+“Why this miserable blunder about the marquis’s button! After that I
+suppose—”
+
+“The marquis! Oh, John, is that to make a difference between you and
+me?—a little joke like that?”
+
+“But does it not?”
+
+“Make a change between us!—such a thing as that! Oh, John!”
+
+“But tell me, Maria, what am I to hope? If you will say that you can
+love me, I shall care nothing for the marquis. In that case I can bear
+to be laughed at.”
+
+“Who will dare to laugh at you? Not the marquis, whom I am sure you will
+like.”
+
+“Your friend in this plaza, who told you of all this.”
+
+“What, poor Tomàs!”
+
+“I do not know about his being poor. I mean the gentleman who was with
+you last night.”
+
+“Yes, Tomàs. You do not know who he is?”
+
+“Not in the least.”
+
+“How droll! He is your own clerk—partly your own, now that you are one
+of the firm. And, John, I mean to make you do something for him; he is
+such a good fellow; and last year he married a young girl whom I love—oh,
+almost like a sister.”
+
+Do something for him! Of course I would. I promised, then and there,
+that I would raise his salary to any conceivable amount that a Spanish
+clerk could desire; which promise I have since kept, if not absolutely to
+the letter, at any rate, to an extent which has been considered
+satisfactory by the gentleman’s wife.
+
+“But, Maria—dearest Maria—”
+
+“Remember, John, we are in the church; and poor papa will be waiting
+breakfast.”
+
+I need hardly continue the story further. It will be known to all that
+my love-suit throve in spite of my unfortunate raid on the button of the
+Marquis D’Almavivas, at whose series of fêtes through that month I was, I
+may boast, an honoured guest. I have since that had the pleasure of
+entertaining him in my own poor house in England, and one of our boys
+bears his Christian name.
+
+From that day in which I ascended the Giralda to this present day in
+which I write, I have never once had occasion to complain of a deficiency
+of romance either in Maria Daguilar or in Maria Pomfret.
+
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK JOHN BULL ON THE GUADALQUIVIR***
+
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